■^ *^r'''-v'-^-' ■f'^''-.-1i-'. ' '. -. V: ' y.y^^-^^l^ 
 
JULES H. DOMMERGUE, 
 
 PUBLISHER, 
 40 LEMBECK AVENUE, 
 
 JERSEY CITY, N. J. 
 
 648 
 
THE 
 
 •ART OF CANNING 
 
 AND 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 AS AN INDUSTRY- 
 
 BY 
 
 Dr. jean PACRETTE 
 
 OF PARIS 
 
 Formulas and receipts as actually used by the author and 
 
 prominent packers. 
 
 I 901 
 

 R^ 
 
 
 COPYRIGHTED 
 BY 
 
 Henry I. Cain & Son 
 
 NEW YORK 
 1900 
 
The Art of Canning and Preserving 
 
 AS AH INDUSTRY. 
 
 EARLY AGE. 
 
 From as far back as history may reach, jBlndiiig ways and 
 means by which to keep and prevent eatables from decaying, in 
 other words, to preserve them, has been one of man's greatest 
 and constant thoughts. 
 
 The various methods discovered by the most progressive 
 brains at the dilf erent periods have been used by the men of the 
 respective ages, enabling them to save the products of nature 
 from one season to another in order to keep them from starving 
 during the long hibernal months. 
 
 Undoubtedly the North, where the climate knows no clem- 
 ency, has been the birth of what is now one of the largest 
 industries of the world. 
 
 Drying grains, nuts, fruits, fishes, by hanging them in the 
 open air during the fair season may be considered as the start, 
 the first step made, every new step coinciding with, in fact, mark- 
 ing an advance in civilization. 
 
 Hunger having driven the prehistoric man out of his hole 
 in the mountain, armed with stones, he went hunting in the val- 
 ley covered with snow having satisfied his immediate 
 
 wants, and those of his little ones, those dear little ones who had, 
 dying from hunger and fear, waited his return, the man thought 
 of the ferocious bear he had faced in the valley, of the fight to 
 death he had won, of the cold of the water under the ice where 
 
 he had caught the fishes What would have become of the 
 
 dear little ones had he failed to overpower the big bear or to 
 force his way through the icy storm? 
 
 "Avoid these dangers for thy beloved children's sake" was 
 his conscience cry, appeal and order. Hence the necessity of 
 keeping the remaining fish and meat for future wants. The 
 famished wolves were howling at the entrance of the hole, since 
 many days was the sun hidden behind a heavy curtain of snow, 
 the man built a fire and hung the meat to dry. 
 
 12G512 
 
Experience did teach him that not only the drying by the 
 heat of his fire but the smoke saturating the meat made it keep 
 long, longer yet, and still it was good to eat. 
 
 When the sun will again shine bright over the valley, when 
 the valley will be green anew, the man will hunt and fish, save, 
 dry, smoke and preserve. 
 
 The frost will find him without fear of the rigor of the ele- 
 ments. The little ones are safe. 
 
 The man on the seashore made the next step, he discovered 
 the precious, the immense help offered by nature in the salt of 
 the water. He made salt and salted the fish, he. made more salt 
 and exchanged it with the man of the mountain for meat and 
 plants and by a series of progress the meat and vegetables were 
 salted in the big earthenware jars. 
 
 The conditions of life were then rendered easier. The sup- 
 ply stored, and being assured not to suft'er from hunger, time 
 could be devoted to pick wild plants and seeds to aromate the 
 brine, to give flavor to the food, to render it palatable. The 
 laurel, the mint, the onion, the garlic soon became necessities. 
 Bold seamen returning from long and adventurous cruises 
 brought the hot pepper, the nutmeg, the cinnamon, the tropical 
 spices, they pleased the taste, from luxuries they became part 
 of the brine where pieces of pork or beef were salted. 
 
 How long a time, how many hundred or thousand years 
 elapsed between each stage of progress — we ignore, the memory 
 of man is short; but here we reach the modern times and Appert, 
 our great master, discovers and teaches the method by which 
 eatables heated, after being air-tightly enclosed in receptacles, 
 will keep and not decay for an unlimited length of time. 
 
 The principle of the annihilation by the heat of the destruc- 
 tive ferments, its contradiction to the belief of the time made a 
 revolution, canning factories quickly spread all over France 
 and later were established in other countries. 
 
 In the United States the preserving industry, still young. 
 has taken an enormous growth, and each year the number of 
 plants and their output largely increases. Each season sees new 
 and more powerful machineries to prepare the fruits and vegeta- 
 bles, to pack them in tins, to seal and to process them. As long 
 as the demand has been larger than the production, the only 
 
ambition of the packer was to manufacture enough to meet the 
 orders; but now that the means of production are we could say 
 unlimited, the competition is felt, the prices are lowered, the 
 packing industry alone remains a source of profit to the manu- 
 facturer who, by the quality of his goods, establishes the reputa- 
 tion of his brand. His goods are appreciated, called for, because 
 they have merits besides the brutal nourishing principles that all 
 food products contain. 
 
 Refinement of the taste gains all the social classes, palates 
 are being more and more educated. The future belongs to the 
 preserver who will keep up to date, to the canner who will be 
 more anxious to improve the quality of his products than to 
 increase his output. The others will, perhaps, manufacture much 
 larger quantities, will do the hard work, will fight on prices, will 
 hardly make a living. Should one of them, discouraged, retire 
 from the field, no brain will be missing in the factory, a carpenter 
 or a mason of yesterday, "canner" to-day, will take his place, the 
 machine work will go on at the same speed, most likely with 
 the same result. 
 
 The successful canner will manufacture preserves of vege- 
 tables in the spring, preserves of fruits during summer and fall, 
 put up jams,jellies, fishes, meats and soups during the winter. He 
 will be a man thoroughly knowing his line, the general expenses 
 of his business will cover twelve months of "active" work. A 
 body of practical and intelligent help will have steady employ- 
 ment all the year long in his factory; the extra hands will only 
 be called when needed in the time of rush, for the cherries, the 
 peas, the peaches and only the heavy work, w^here less care and 
 skill is required, will be left for them to attend to under the vigi- 
 lant control of the able and trained staff. 
 
 Our ideal Conserve manufacturer will be active and bright, 
 he will not be the tool working at hard labor for the greatest 
 benefit of some jobber. Our Preserver will place his goods on 
 the market under his own name and not depend upon the others 
 who care so little for him, to sell his own products. He will 
 devote all his time, labor, skill and brain to his manufacture. The 
 goods bearing his trade-mark will be relied upon; he will have a 
 trade that is his and he will take a jealous care of it. 
 
All goods have to be advertised, our man for this will rely 
 on the quality; by it he will' reach and summon the consumer to 
 his aid; to the consumer he will devote all his solicitude; he is 
 the only one who will appreciate his ettorts, alone he will create, 
 constitute and increase "the demand." 
 
 Receiving his good money full value, satisfied of the grade 
 and quality of your production, the consumer will prove you his 
 thanks in the most effective way by patronizing your brand, 
 establishing your fauie on solid basis and will still consider 
 himself your obliged. Of course you must help this useful aux- 
 iliary you must remind him of your existence while in the 
 grocery store, the originality and the neatness of your packages, 
 the simplicity and tastefulness of your labels will do this. While 
 in the shop your new friend must easily detect and recognize 
 your goods. The pretty window and counter display of your 
 finest goods in air-tight sealed glass jars will undoubtedly prove 
 one of the most effectual and paying ads. A few hundred dollars 
 and a little pain will pay for this and at the end of the year it 
 will have done you good and left something behind. 
 
 Years of study under my illustrious and beloved master, the 
 late Dr. Pasteur, have given me the theoretical knowledge, years 
 of practical work have enabled me to illustrate and explain in 
 this book how to handle to the best advantage the raw products 
 of nature. The so much honored "art of cooking" has again gained 
 the rank it merits and to-day the food products are the subject 
 of the constant solicitude and study of our greatest scientists 
 and law makers. With all the sensible preservers we applaud 
 to the Pure Food laws because they protect the honest man 
 whether he be producer or consumer. 
 
 prese:nt days. 
 
 The public in the grocery store buys canned goods, relying 
 mostly on a promising label with high color contrasts; he knows 
 nothing of what he will get when opening the can. He finds 
 himself in the presence of goods marketed under assumed names, 
 sold to the retailer by a large dealer whose aim is to buy the 
 cheapest possible and do the manufacturer, anxious to realize, 
 to the extent the poor man can stand. This buying the cheap- 
 
est is often done to the great detriment of the quality; the manu- 
 facturer who has paid the expenses of the squeezing act will try 
 to get even to the greater detriment of the already decreased 
 quality — the retailer does not know what he gets, he supposes 
 it to be all right, his clerks represent it to be such. 
 
 Poor consumer! How could he know what he is going to 
 have until he has paid for and there is nothing left for him but to 
 acknowledge that he has been defrauded once more. The breach 
 of trust will be so much greater that the unscrupulous canner 
 has used greater artifice and skill to hide and conceal, by unloyal 
 processes, the real nature of the goods. And still the consumer 
 is not at the end of his troubles, until he finds the brand, the 
 reliable one, which in the future will he his sure, trusted and 
 unbetrayable guide. 
 
 The actual Pure Food laws enforced in their real spirit are 
 the greatest friends of the straight, honest preserver; they bar 
 out all the fakirs and defrauders who indignantly abuse the 
 public and prevent the loyal goods to be worth their value. To 
 allow these products on the market would be giving a premium 
 to fraud. 
 
 These are highly moral and human laws; they protect the 
 public health, they protect the mother and the child, the rich 
 as well as the poor. We sympathize with their promoters. 
 
 STERILIZATION. 
 HOW TO DETERMINE THE PROCESSING REQUIRED. 
 
 Preserving is nothing more than enclosing edibles in air 
 tightly sealed vessels and submit the whole to the action of heat 
 for a suflflcient length of time to permit the heat to penetrate 
 the inside of the receptacle and the very heart of the fruits or 
 eatables it contains. Every particle contained in the vessel 
 must be heated at a temperature not less than 170° Fahrenheit, 
 at which temperature all the ferments adult (microbes) are 
 killed. But should the sealed vessel be placed in a bath of 170o 
 Fahrenheit, it would require days in order that the inside of the 
 jar should reach that temperature. * 
 
 Certain products are easily penetrated by heat, others more 
 difficultly. After a little experience the preserver is able at a 
 
glance to determine this and will accordingly "process," this is to 
 say leave the sealed vessels in boiling water or steam bath for a 
 shorter or longer time. 
 
 Should the vessel contain a light liquid, plain fruit juice per 
 example, a very short processing would be required. If the can 
 or jar contains fruits in water the length of the processing will 
 be increased as it is not only necessary that the liquid contained 
 in the jar reaches 170°, but this liquid must become heated to 
 such a degree as to transmit to the fruit the temperature of 170°. 
 It will require some time for the heat to reach the inside of the 
 fruit, therefore, the larger the fruits the longer the processing. 
 If the fruits contain stones, the processing will again be in- 
 creased, the heat after penetrating the fruit having the inside of 
 the pit to reach, otherwise should the frements naturally con- 
 tained in the stones not be killed by the heat, they would within 
 a short time develop, invade the fruits, the liquid and the whole 
 contents of the vessel would ferment, spoil and decay. 
 
 If the liquid is heavy, such as sugar or glucose syrup — jams 
 jellies, etc., it will still be more difficult for the heat to penetrate 
 it, the length of the processing should be increased. 
 
 BLANCHING. 
 
 The acids contained in the fruits are mostly citric and tar- 
 taric ; after the processing they remain in the same state, such is 
 not the case with the vegetables. The numerous and various 
 acids they contain resume their chemical action after the pro- 
 cessing is over and this will effect and change the appearance 
 and taste of the vegetables; this would be bad enough in itself, 
 but these acids do worse, they practically digest the mealy sub- 
 stance of the plants creating a sort of hot bed in many respects 
 similar to the "Culture Bouillon" of the laboratory. 
 
 I have stated that at the temperature of 170° Fahrenheit 
 the ferments were destroyed — this is correct, but besides these 
 actually living bacilli, which the heat has killed, the vegetables 
 contain others not developed, practically not alive yet, but ac- 
 tually existing. They are eggs, or seeds, or spores, and would so 
 remain should it not be for this chemical digestion, this hot bed 
 which practically hatches them. They develop, and soon the 
 whole contents of the airtight sealed vessel will be in complete 
 decomposition. 
 
BRINE. 
 
 The situation is not desperate, not in the least. What is re- 
 quired is to eliminate these acids. We will therefore "blanch" 
 boil in water the vegetables, before canning, in order to dissolve 
 and eliminate these acids; then we will put them in vessels, seal 
 air tightly and process. But small, very small, particles of these 
 acids may still be there; they will not have any chance to do mis- 
 chief; the water of our sealed vessel is salted to a suflflcient de- 
 gree to absolutely protect the mealy substance against the ac- 
 tion of these weakened acids. (The brine for vegetables is one 
 quart of salt to fifty quarts of water.) 
 
 These terrible acids are now harmless. Our can or jar will 
 keep for years and years. 
 
 HOT DIPPING. 
 
 Not only the salt, but the sugar, the glucose, etc., are good 
 ^'Preservers." 
 
 For this reason, if you pour hot boiling syrup over fruits 
 contained in vessels, the temperature of this boiling syrup is at 
 least 212°, and therefore cannot contain any of these microbes 
 which are killed at 170°. The amount of heat contained in this 
 syrup will be sufficient to nearly kill all ferments contained in 
 the fruits; therefore, if the vessels are promptly sealed, a very 
 short processing will be sufficient to complete the destruction of 
 the micro organisms. 
 
 If the sugar syrup has been poured cold over the fruits and 
 the vessels afterward airtightly sealed it will be necessary to 
 give a very much longer processing, not because the cold syrup 
 has not the same effect as the hot syrup, but simply because it 
 requires a long time for the heat to penetrate a heavy liquid such 
 as sugar syru*p. In fact, our aim is not to cook the eatables in the 
 sealed receptacles, but to "Preserve" them. A very long process- 
 ing would result in overcooking the goods, especially the parts 
 which are on the sides of the cans or jars, as all the heat on its 
 way in goes through and is transmitted by them. To remedy 
 this the sealed vessels are submitted to processing under pres- 
 sure at higher temperature, say 225-240° Fahrenheit, in a closed 
 
10 
 
 retort. The temperature all around the can or jar being 240° 
 its inside will, within a few minutes, reach 170°. This is all we 
 desire; we turn off the steam and all is over; the goods have only 
 been under the influence of heat for a very short while. This is 
 especially desirable for the preserves of vegetables. 
 
 COOLING OFF— CANS AND JARS. 
 
 If the nature of the goods is extremely delicate and liable 
 to suffer by the heat, cool off the cans by turning on them a 
 stream of cold water. This is especially advisable for large cans 
 because the larger the can the longer it will take for the heat 
 to reach the middle of the receptacle, therefore the longer 
 the processing. Suppose you have to process your cans one hour, 
 this simply means that for this size of can filled with this speci- 
 fied product it will require sixty minutes for the heat to reach 
 the very middle of the can. In other words, the very centre of 
 the can will have been heated at 170° or perhaps a little more 
 for, say, one minute's time, while the parts of the goods in con- 
 tact with the sides of the receptacle will have been maintained 
 at a temperature of nearly 212 or more during sixty minutes. 
 
 If these big cans piled one over the other would be allowed 
 to cool ofi' by themselves, it would require a long time during 
 which the products near the sides would be maintained at quite 
 high temperature, thus cooking them further. I have stated be- 
 fore, our aim is to preserve in the cans, not to cook, and much less 
 to overcook ; for this reason we will drive a stream of cold water 
 on the cans so that the outer part will cool quickly. We will not 
 leave the stream on until the cans are absolutely cold because 
 we do not desire to cool off the middle of the can; it has not been 
 long under high temperature and it will do it no harm to remain 
 hot for a while. 
 
 Personally I prefer cooling off by laying the cans on the fioor 
 one inch apart; it prevents the rusting of the cans, but it requires 
 lots of room and more handling. 
 
 The glass jars we cannot cool off with cold water oven cold 
 air; a draft might cause some of them to crack and V »ak. But 
 the brisk cooling off is not a necessity; its object is to'secure an 
 even cooking of the contents of the sealed vessel, and as for glass: 
 
11 
 
 jars we are not in such a hurry as we are for the cans; we will op- 
 erate as follows and obtain same results, if not better. 
 
 We will give a shorter processing, but will allow the jars to 
 cool off for, say, ten to fifteen minutes in the water of the kettle 
 in which the processing has been made. 
 
 During the processing the heat was transmitted from the 
 exterior of the jar towards the interior, and say it took twelve 
 minutes' processing for the heat to reach 212° in the inside, at 
 this time we turn off the steam. At this very moment the outer 
 part of the jar has been submitted for twelve minutes at 212°^ 
 the centre of the jar just reached this temperature and the 
 whole contents of the jar is actually at the same temperature 
 of 212°. 
 
 The steam being turned off — the water of the bath stops 
 boiling and its temperature gradually decreases, it cools off very 
 slowly; the jar being still in the bath will also gra,dually cool 
 off. If it has taken twelve minutes for the heat to penetrate and 
 reach the centre of the jar, for the same reason, being in the same 
 water bath, it will take twelve minutes to the cooling off to grad- 
 ually reach the center of the jar. Therefore after this time the 
 whole contents of the jar will have been submitted to the same 
 temperature and for the same length of time. 
 
 From this it derives that fruits in liquid will require less 
 processing than fruits packed tight and without liquid; that bot- 
 tled bouillon will require less processing than soups with pieces 
 of meat in. That heavy soups will require less processing than 
 meat, and pieces of meat less than a chicken or rabbit that would 
 be canned whole with its bones. 
 
 AIR ENCLOSED IN CANS AND JARS— VACUUM. 
 
 The air is more easily penetrated by hea^: than any of the 
 therefore, the microbes it contains are the very first to be killed, 
 liquids we are liable to meet while in the preserving factory;. 
 We all agree on this. Then, creating a vacuum or exhausting 
 the air is and remains a nonsense. 
 
 Everything can be preserved; nothing is hard to keep, but 
 each product has to be submitted to the action of heat for the 
 time required by the heat to penetrate it. 
 
12 
 
 If you put up goods which are partially or totally spoiled, 
 fermented and covered Avith mold, they will keep; they will be 
 preserved just as well if the length of time of processing has al- 
 lowed the heat to penetrate the whole contents of the receptacle. 
 The whole contents will be pasteurized and it will not spoil any 
 further. The mold is nothing else but a mushroom, a vegetable; 
 it will be preserved same as any other vegetable. 
 
 CANS— SEALING— VENT HOLE. 
 
 If your goods are put up in tin cans, it does not matter how 
 the can is sealed as long as it is airtight. 
 
 As far as the keeping is concerned, it would make no differ- 
 ence of what kind of metal the can is made, but it has to be made 
 of tinplate simply because other metals would generate products 
 injurious to the human stomach, while the tin does not. 
 
 The sealing of the cans with pure tin is not practicable, this 
 metal being too fusible, and experience proves that two-third 
 lead added to one-third of tin is hardly attackable by the acids 
 of the fruits. Resin should always be used when possible, the 
 chlorhydric acid being liable to combine with the lead of the 
 solder, producing poisonous lead salts which, if absorbed, may 
 cause death. 
 
 I will leave to the manufacturer to judge if he should use 
 cans with a vent hole, and process in two separate operations. 
 It is extra work generally done without any especial advantage, 
 therefore I will give the length of heating for the various prod- 
 ucts for the "Processing" in one operation. 
 
 PACKING IN GLASS. 
 
 In reference to the packing in glass jars this branch takes 
 each year more and more importance, one of the drawbacks, in 
 fact, the reason which has kept for years this part of the packing 
 far behind the ranks it merits and should always have had, was 
 the lack of a practical means to obtain an airtight seal which 
 would allow to process the glass packages same as tin cans. 
 
 The wrong idea that the air had to be driven out of the jars, 
 had to be exhausted, has for years caused all the efforts in this 
 line to point in the wrong direction. 
 
13 
 
 I feel here in honor and duty bound to pay a public tribute 
 to the officers of The Phoenix Cap Company of New York, to the 
 courtesy of which the writer is greatly indebted for the good they 
 have done to the country, and it is real pleasure to me to state 
 that the years they have spent in study and experiment have re- 
 sulted to the greatest benefit of the producer, the preserver and 
 the consumer. 
 
 PRESERVING OF FRUITS. 
 
 Fruits come first in the preserving line; they are prepared 
 in different ways, but always put up in water or sugar, and it 
 only requires care and cleanliness to obtain first-class products. 
 It is a crime to spoil the gifts of nature. Handle them carefully, 
 your solicitude will be rewarded. You will feel proud of your 
 products, and the premium they will command will pay you well 
 for your troubles. It is cheaper to make good than bad. 
 
 Under the heading of each fruit I give the best formulas for 
 the various kinds; however, a general formula can be given by 
 which all fruits can be treated. 
 
 FRUITS IN WATER^PACKING AND PROCEESSING. 
 
 Fruits in water are merely bottled or canned, covered with 
 fresh cold water which has been boiled previously or with hot 
 water directly. The jars or cans are airtightly sealed and pro- 
 cessed : 
 
 Small fruits with stones, quarts 10 minutes. 
 
 " " " pints 8 
 
 Large fruits with stones, quarts 12 minutes. 
 
 " " " " pints 10 " 
 
 Pitted fruits, quarts 8 minutes. 
 « " pints 6 " 
 
 By small fruits we understand cherries, small plums, etc.; 
 by large fruits the peaches, apricots, etc.; by pitted fruits the 
 peach ears, pears, etc. 
 
 CRUSHED FRUITS. 
 
 Crushed fruits are especially put up for the soda fountain: 
 trade. Crush or grate the fruits, throw them in a kettle of hot 
 
14 
 
 l3oiling syrup at 28° Beaume, boil three minutes, can or bottle 
 and process. 
 
 Gallons, 40 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Half Gals., 25 " " " 
 
 Quarts, 15 " " '• 
 
 Pints, 10 " " '' 
 
 FRUIT PULP. 
 
 Boil your fruit five minutes with about one quart of water 
 for each twenty pounds of fruits, can and process. 
 
 Double gallons, 31 hours in boiling water. 
 
 Gallons, 2i " " " " 
 
 or, 
 
 Double gallons, 45 minutes at 235° Fahrenheit. 
 Gallons, 30 " " " " 
 
 These fruits are used in winter time to make the jams. If 
 jou use double gallons they ought to be made of tin plate lac- 
 quered on one side, which will be on the inside of the can. This 
 will enable you to use them time and time again; the acids of 
 the fruit will not corrode them. 
 
 APPLES IN WATER. 
 
 Dip the apples in boiling water for one minute, cool off in 
 •cold water, put in cans or jars, cover with plain or sweetened 
 water, seal and process. 
 
 Cans, (laarts, 8 minutes in boiling water 
 " pints, 6 " « " " 
 
 and cool off with cold water. 
 
 Jars, quarts, 6 minutes in boiling water. 
 " pints, 4 " " " " 
 
 Allow the jars to remain in the hot water for about five min- 
 utes to cool gradually. 
 
 CHERRIES IN WATER. 
 
 Pitted, sour cherries are the only ones used. Put in bottles on- 
 ly and cover with water, seal with large corks and wire the neck, 
 
15 
 
 then process in oj^en bath for fifteen minutes. The water has to 
 be lightly colored with carmine (carmine No. 40 preferred). 
 
 CHERRY PULP. 
 
 Put the pitted cherries in the kettle with one pint of water 
 for each ten pounds of fruit, stir and boil five minutes, can and 
 process. 
 
 Gallons, 2^ hours. 
 Double gallons, 3^ hours. 
 
 GREENGAGE PULP. 
 
 Pit the greengages and boil five minutes, stirring slowly so 
 as not to break the fruit; add to this one quart of water to each 
 twenty pounds of fruit, can and process. 
 
 Double gallons, 45 minutes, -235° 
 Gallons 30 " 235° 
 
 PEACH PULP. 
 
 Use ripe, full flavored fruit if possible. Pit them and boil 
 four minutes, adding one quart of water to each twenty-five 
 pounds of fruit, can and process. 
 
 Double gallons, 3 hours in boiling water 
 Gallons, 2 " 
 
 or 
 
 Double gallons, 45 minutes at 225° 
 Gallons, 30 " " 225° 
 
 APRICOT PULP. 
 
 Ripe, full flavored fruit only give a good pulp which will 
 find a ready market for confectioners use, and also make high 
 grade jams. 
 
 Cut the apricots in halves and boil five minutes with water, 
 one quart for each twenty-five pounds of fruit. Save the stones; 
 they will be useful later. Seal and process. 
 
 Double gallons, 3i hours in boiling water. 
 Gallons, 2 " " " " 
 
 or, respectively, 45 and 30 minutes at 235°. 
 
16 
 
 STRAWBERRY PULP. 
 
 Boil in kettle two minutes with one quart of water for ten 
 pounds of strawberries, can and process. 
 
 Gallons, 30 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Double gallons 45 " " " 
 
 RASPBERRY PULP. 
 
 I*repare same as strawberries. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES IN WATER. 
 
 Use green gooseberries, bottle, cover with water, 
 seal airtightly and process. 
 
 Quarts, 12 minutes 
 Pints, 7 " 
 
 WHOLE PINEAPPLES IN WATER. 
 
 Peel with machine, put in can or jar, seal and 
 process. Same time for both cans and jars. 
 2 hours in boiling water 
 or 
 45 minutes at 225° 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 English 
 Gooseberry Jar 
 
 RHUBARB IN WATER (English style). 
 
 Cut in pieces from 1 to li inch long. Bottle raw with plain 
 water and process 15 minutes. 
 
 At the beginning of the season when the rhubarb is young 
 and tender, ten minutes is sufficient. 
 
 FRUITS IN LIGHT SYRUP— PACKING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 For this the fruit has to be blanched — this is to say, boiled 
 in water until softened — then briskly thrown in cold running 
 water to cool them as quickly as possible; this will make them 
 hard again; can or bottle, coyer with syrup at 18° Beaume and 
 process. 
 
 Quarts, 15 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pints, 9 " " " " 
 
17 
 
 Increase two minutes for large fruits such as pears, and 
 reduce two minutes for small fruits such as cherries, etc. 
 
 If your fruits are soft, such as pears, cool them in cold water 
 after the blanching, adding to this watef one ounce of alum for 
 each three gallons. 
 
 If you handle apples or bananas, in fact, all fruits which 
 you desire to remain perfectly white, do not leave them in con- 
 tact with air when they are peeled, but throw them in water 
 containing one ounce of sulphite of soda to each six gallons of 
 water. The sulphite is a powerful whitener as well as an anti- 
 septic. Fruits in this water will not ferment; added in small 
 quantity to the water when blanching, it will whiten the fruit. 
 
 PRICKING OF THE FRUITS. 
 
 Such fruits as cherries and greengauges do not require 
 blanching; they are put up directly in the cans or jars, sealed 
 and processed; in this case they should be dipped with syrup 
 at 28 to 30° Beaume. 
 
 These fruits absorbing syrup during 
 the processing will slightly swell, thus^ 
 causing the skin to burst, spoiling their 
 appearance and clouding the syrup. This 
 is easily avoided by pricking the cherries 
 or plums with copper needles (steel 
 needles would produce black spots). 
 For this stick a dozen needles or pins 
 through a cork about li inches in diam- 
 eter and i inch thick, push them through 
 to the heads, cover them with another 
 piece of cork, and it will be very convenient to handle. 
 
 FRUITS IN HEAVY SYRUP. 
 
 Fruits in heavy syrup are prepared same as the "candied 
 fruits" ; after they have been for three days in the syrup, which, 
 by the previous boiling, has reached 28° Beaume, they are bot- 
 tled, dipped with 29° syrup and processed as the fruits in light 
 syrup. The processing should be twice as long if the syrup is 
 put in. cold. 
 
18 
 
 WIESBADEN FRUITS. 
 
 Wiesbaden fruits are practically fruits which have been 
 thoroughly candied. They are bottled and covered with 32° 
 syrup hot, perfectly clear and processed at 212° Fahrenheit. 
 
 Quarts, 12 minutes. 
 Pints 8 " 
 The dipping syrup is to be two-thirds sugar, one-third 
 glucose. 
 
 APPLES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Select fruit which is not over ripe. Peel, core and throw 
 them in cold water containing one ounce of sulphite of soda to 
 each four gallons. This will prevent them from turning brown. 
 One ounce of alum in five gallons of water will give about the 
 same result. Put them in cans or bottles and cover with a warm 
 syrup at 18° Beaume, to which add one ounce of lemon-peel 
 alcoholic infusion to each five gallons of syrup; then process. 
 Quart cans, 18 minutes in boiling water 
 Pint " 10 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 12 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 8 " " " " 
 
 PEARS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Select pears which have not reached their maturity. Peel 
 the fruit and throw them in a bucket of cold water containing 
 one ounce of sulphite of soda to each seven gallons of water. 
 Blanch them in the same water — this is to say, place the fruit 
 in the basket of the kettle — cover with the sulphite water and 
 slowly bring to boil. (See blanching kettle.) As soon as they 
 have become softened remove the basket from the kettle and 
 dip it with its contents in a cold water tank, allowing a stream 
 of cold water to run into it for five minutes. Put them in cans 
 or jars, cover with cold syrup of proper strength for the market 
 for which the goods are prepared, add to the syrup a few grains 
 of vanilla to flavor it; then process. 
 
 Quart cans, 16 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 12 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 13 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 10 " " " " 
 
19 
 
 Allow the jars to remain in the processing tank for ten min- 
 utes to cool off gradually. If the pears are not perfectly white 
 after the blanching and cooling in the cold water bath, it is 
 necessary to bleach the fruit in sulphur fumes for six hours 
 before blanching. When canning or bottling it is advisable to 
 peel the stems of the pears so as to make them perfectly white; 
 it greatly adds to their appearance. 
 
 If they are fine, soft pears, cut them lengthwise and core 
 them. Blanch in very light syrup instead of water, put in jars 
 and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 12 minutes in boiling water, 
 Pint " 8 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 10 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 Allow the jars to remain in the processing tank for ten min- 
 utes to cool off gradually. 
 
 PINK FANCY PEARS. 
 
 The pears may be colored pink (but demand for same is 
 limited) by preparing as follows: 
 
 "After the pears have been blanched and cooled in water, 
 place them in earthenware jars and pour over same a hot syrup 
 at 25° Beaume, with 
 
 Carmine for clear pink. 
 Cudbear for wine red coloring. 
 
 Add 1-8 ounce of alum p^r gallon of syrup to fix the color. 
 Aniline colors also give very good results, covering the fruit 
 evenly." 
 
 COOKING PEARS. 
 
 Should the pears be of the cooking variety, after peeling, 
 stick several times a long, large copper needle through the core 
 from the eye to the stem; then blanch them thoroughly. 
 
 QUINCES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Peel, slice and core the quinces. Put them in cold w^ater 
 and heat slowly until it reaches boiling point (but do not boil). 
 
2U 
 
 pick the slices with the skimmer and throw them in a bucket 
 of cold water containing one ounce of sulphite of soda for each 
 six gallons. Put in cans or jars, cover with syrup of the 
 required strength for the market for which they are prepared; 
 then process. 
 
 Quart cans, 20 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 15 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 15 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 12 " " " " 
 
 Use apple quinces if a light color is desired, and pear 
 quinces if a darker color. 
 
 CHERRIES IN SYRUP. 
 
 The common way is to fill the cans with the fruit, cover 
 with sweetened water, seal airtightly and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 12 minutes. 
 Pint " 8 " 
 Quart jars, 6 " 
 Pint " 4 " 
 
 For first-class goods the cherries must not be ripe and be 
 pink instead of red. To prevent the skin from bursting while 
 cooking, prick the fruit with copper needles, soak the cherries 
 in cold light alum water for 15 minutes, then blanch and cool 
 off in cold running water. 
 
 If they are red cherries it is advisable to put them in cans 
 that are lacquered on the inside. The cans are dipped with 
 light syrup, slightly colored red with carmine for the red cher- 
 ries. Seal and process. 
 
 Quarts, 10 minutes. 
 Pints, 6 " 
 
 If the cherries are put up in glass jars, process 
 
 Quarts, 4 minutes. 
 Pints, 3 " 
 
21 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
 "WIESBADEN CHERRY COMPOTE." 
 Take cherries, white or red, which have been 
 candied, fill the jars and pour over hot fresh, 
 clear syrup, 2-3 sugar and 1-3 glucose, at 32° 
 Beaume, seal while hot with Phoenix cap lined 
 with composition washer and parchment paper 
 disc. The regular Wiesbaden shape jars should 
 be used. Fig. 3. 
 
 "CHERRIES IN MARASCHINO." 
 
 Drain the syrup of nice, pink colored, can- 
 died cherries, boil part of it, reducing its strength 
 to 12^ Beaume by addition of water, pour hot 
 over the cherries and drain immediately. Bot- 
 tle your cherries and cover with liquor prepared as follows : 
 Drained, filtered syrup, 20 parts. 
 Water, 30 " 
 
 Maraschino extract, 1 " 
 
 The strength in sugar may be increased. The jars are to 
 be airtightly sealed and processed. 
 
 Quarts, 15 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pints, 10 " " " " 
 
 "MARASCHINO EXTRACT." 
 This formula produces the finest and softest flavor and costs 
 about 15c. per quart. 
 
 Mix and crush together: 
 
 Cherries, 85 pounds (black wild cherries if 
 
 possible); 
 Raspberries, 18 pounds; 
 Dried cherry leaves, 6i pounds; 
 Peach stone almonds, 1 pound; 
 Powdered iris root, 4i pounds; 
 Hot water, 21 gallons. 
 Distill to obtain 10^ gallons of extract. 
 
 GREENGAGES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Use unripe fruit; prick them with the 
 
 copper needles; do not remove the stone or 
 
 i^G. i pits,and throw them in cold water contain- 
 
22 
 
 ing one ounce alum to each three gallons of water. Leave them 
 for about one hour; then put them in the kettle with fresh, cold 
 and curls under the influence of heat. To prevent the flesh from 
 water; heat slowly, as this fruit is very delicate. The skin breaks 
 losing its bright green color add a few grains of "Emerald green" 
 aniline color to the water of the kettle. Do not let this water 
 boil, but as the fruits come to the surface pick them up with a 
 skimmer and place them in cold water to which has been added 
 noeounce of alum to each five gallons of water. Leave 15 
 minutes, then rinse by letting cold water run into the tank or 
 bucket containing the greengages. Put in cans or jars, fill with 
 syrup of required strength and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 7 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 7 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 Allow jars to remain 10 minutes in processing tank to cool 
 off gradually. Syrup marking 26° Beaume when boiling is best, 
 as its strength helps the fruit to remain whole. 
 
 All other plums are treated the same way, omitting the 
 green coloring if they are of the red or yellow variety. 
 
 PEACHES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Use only firm, white peaches, if high grade goods 
 are desired (the green ones may be used for pulp). 
 Peel the peaches, cut in two and throw them 
 in cold water containing exactly one ounce of 
 alum and i ounce sulphite of soda for each seven 
 gallons of water. Leave until cooled off, drain, put 
 in cans or jars and dip with hot syrup; then process. 
 
 _^ Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water, 
 "pint " 8 " " " 
 
 Cool off the cans with cold water. 
 
 (^uart jars, 5 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Jar for Apricot Pini- << Q " '^ " " 
 
 EarH. J- lut O 
 
 AUow the jars to remain five minutes in the bath to cool 
 off gradually. Whole peaches are treated same way, but process 
 five minutes longer. 
 
23 
 
 APKICOTS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Use almost but not ripe fruit, a little green yet being prefer- 
 able. Too ripe fruit would break and not retain their shape. 
 Peel, cut in two and leave in cold water until ready to put them 
 in cans or jars. If ripe apricots are used do not peel them, as 
 they would fall to pieces during processing. Put the fruit in the 
 cans or jars and dip with hot syrup of required strength. A hot 
 syrup prepared at 24° Beaume will have the best strength to 
 help the fruit to remain whole. A few peeled pits in each jar 
 will greatly add to the flavor and appearance. The heavier the 
 syrup the longer the processing. The proper time for the above 
 will be: 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 8 " " " " 
 
 J. Quart jars, 6 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 3 " " " " 
 
 WHOLE APRICOTS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Whole apricots make a fine preserve, the 
 stones and pits giving a superior flavor. 
 
 Prick with copper needles and throw in cold 
 water containing one ounce alum for each ten 
 gallons. Leave two hours, drain and put in cans 
 or jars. XTse same syrup and process as for apri- 
 cot ears. Should the apricots be too green, it is 
 advisable to slightly color the syrup with "orange" 
 color, sold by all confectioners' supply dealers. 
 The addition of one ounce of sulphite of soda to 
 each six gallons of syrup prevents fermentation 
 and helps to preserve the fruit. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES IN SYRUP. 
 
 (Wiesbaden Strawberries.) 
 
 This fruit put up in syrup does not remain whole unless it 
 is candied; it is then known as Wiesbaden strawberries. 
 
24 
 
 The common grade is prepared as follows: Fill the cans with 
 strawberries, pour over a cold syrup at 28 Beaume and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 7 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 3 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 2 " " " " 
 
 Leave the jars about five minutes in the processing tank so 
 as to cool gradually. 
 
 A higher grade may be made as follows: 
 
 Fill the jars with the strawberries, pour over cold syrup at 
 30° Beaume and leave over night, drain the syrup and refill the 
 jars with cold syrup at 26° Beaume, then process as stated be- 
 fore. 
 
 The jars should be laid flat for 20 days in a dark place before 
 shipment; this will allow the fruits time to absorb sugar and 
 become of the same density as the syrup; otherwise the berries 
 will accumulate at the top of the jar. 
 
 For the high grades take strawberries partially or totally 
 candied. If partially candied put in jars, cover with cold syrup 
 at 25°; process same as above. If strawberries are fully candied 
 heat the stone jar containing them, drain the syrup, boil it, re- 
 ducing its strength to 25° by addition of water, and pour over 
 the fruit to wash them. Leave one hour, drain, and bottle the 
 berries. Fill the jars with hot, bright syrup containing 1-3 
 glucose at 30 to 31° Beaume. Seal the jars while hot. Same 
 as for Wiesbaden cherries. 
 
 RASPBERRIES IN SYRUP. » 
 
 Raspberries are treated in the same manner as the straw- 
 berries, and the same processing is required. 
 
 RED CURRANTS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Use a nickel, silver or celluloid comb to separate the cur- 
 rants from the bunch. Pack the currants tightly into the jars 
 and pour over them a hot syrup marking 20° Beaume. Seal and 
 process two minutes in boiling water. 
 
'25 
 
 "BAR-LE-DUC" JELLY. 
 
 The Bar-le-l)uc jelly is the finest jam that is in existence, 
 and is made in the city of Bar-le-duc in the east of France, which 
 up to date has had the monopoly of its preparation. 
 
 Take each currant in your hand and with a rye straw pick 
 the pits through the hole left by the stem. When you have 
 a stone jar 2-3 full pour over warm syrup marking 26° Beaume. 
 Leave it stand two days, pour in kettle and bring slowly to boil- 
 ing. Put it back in the stone jar. Repeat the operation four 
 times. At the last operation the strength of the syrup has been 
 considerably increased by the subsequent reheating. Should 
 it be too light a little sugar may be added. Put in glass jars 
 while hot, leave uncovered for ten days on a table, and the 
 surface of the jelly will thicken and turn harder. 
 
 The white currants are treated in the same way, but the 
 jelly is slightly colored j-ellow pink. To make it very white and 
 clear add to the first syrup one ounce sulphite of soda to each 
 five gallons of syrup. Do not process the jars, as the jelly would 
 turn dark, and this is to be avoided. 
 
 BLACKBERRIES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Fill the jars with blackberries, cover with 26° syrup, seal 
 and process. 
 
 Quarts, 12 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pints, 7 " " " " 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Take green gooseberries, put them in jars, cover with syrup 
 at 26° Beaume, seal and process. 
 
 Quarts, 12 minutes. 
 Pints, 7 " 
 
 PINEAPPLES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Peel and slice the fruit, bleach over night in the sulphur 
 -closet; if a light lemon color is desired, wash in cold water, 
 then transfer in a kettle of boiling water for two minutes, then 
 drain and can or bottle. 
 
26 
 
 Dip with syrup at 16° Beaume, made with the water in 
 which the pineapples were blanched, if you desire the full flavor. 
 Seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 15 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 10 
 
 Quart jars, 10 " " " 
 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 A simple process is to can or bottle the sliced fruit without 
 blanching, cover with syrup at 18° Beaume, seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 30 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 20 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 25 " " " " 
 
 Pint "' 8 " " '' " 
 
 BANANAS IN SYRUP. 
 
 All the syrup used for this fruit should be at least 2-3 
 glucose. 
 
 Take green bananas, peel them with the fingers (do not 
 use any steel knife), throw them in water containing one ounce 
 sulphite of soda to each three gallons of water. After one hour 
 can or bottle and coA-er with hot S3'^rup at 28°, flavoring same 
 according to taste with vanilla infusion about 1 to 200 parts^ 
 or orange, lemon or mandarin peel alcoholic infusion. Also add 
 to the syrup a small quantity of citric acid. Seal and process, 
 
 (Juart cans, 8 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 2 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 1 " " " " 
 
 Cool the cans with cold water. 
 
 Leave the jars in the hot water to cool off gradually. 
 
 FIGS IN SYKUP. 
 
 Take small, unripe figs, prick them all over with the copper 
 needles and also from the stem to top through the heart with 
 a larger needle. Blanch them in boiling water with very little 
 alum, cool off in cold, running water, put in stone jars and cover 
 
27 
 
 with Lot syrup at 24° Beaume. After twelve hours drain and 
 reboil at 24°, then cover again. Give one more operation with 
 25' syrup, and two with syrup at 26°. Can or bottle, cover with 
 hot syrup at 26° Beaume, seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 6 " " " '' 
 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 The cans should be cooled off with cold water. Allow the 
 jars to remain a few minutes in the hot water to cool off gradu- 
 ally. 
 
 This is the general way of preparing the figs; however, we 
 must add that the appearance of the figs has a great deal to' 
 do with their sale, and on their color depends their appearance. 
 Therefore, should the nature of the figs you employ not have 
 a nice green color after the last operation, it is easy to remedy. 
 Should they have a faded yellow color, drain the syrup, reboil 
 it, color it lightly with "Emerald" green, then pour over the 
 figs. Three days after, the figs will be of desired color. When 
 treating figs of the same nature again, you may color them green 
 right at the start by giving them a second but short boiling in 
 water in which you add the color and cool in clear, running 
 water. 
 
 If the contrary has happened — this is to say, if the figs after 
 the five syrup baths are of a black green — then operate as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 After the figs have been pricked with the needles as de- 
 scribed, place them in the sulphur closet over night, blanch in 
 water to which has been added one ounce sulphite of soda to 
 each four gallons of water, then cool in cold, running water. 
 Put in syrup as aforesaid. 
 
 Some manufacturers color the syrup used to fill the jars 
 or cans with "orange" aniline color. If instead of "green figs,'^ 
 "gold figs" are desired, place them in cold water after removing 
 from the sulphur closet for one hour. Then return them to the 
 sulphur closet for 12 hours more and continue the operation as 
 described. The figs obtained will be a clear gold yellow and 
 very attractive; but the two operations in the sulphur closet are 
 necessary to remove all the green. 
 
28 
 
 If you use fruit with very heavy skin, it is necessary to peel 
 them, and as all the color is in the skin, it is necessary to color 
 them either green or gold. Do not blanch these in water, but 
 put direct in sulphur. 
 
 MELONS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Select unripe melons with prominent ribs, as it improves 
 their appearance, peel them, making peel not over 1-32 inch 
 in thickness, slice the melons, following the ribs, putting aside 
 all the seeds, and lay the slices in salt water (10 to 12 per cent, 
 salt) for one week. During this time the melon will give out a 
 great part of the water it contains, and the sugar will penetrate 
 it easier. But as the operation softens the tissue of the fruit, it 
 is necessary to blanch them in alum water, bringing them slowly 
 to boil; cool with plenty of cold water. 
 
 Lay them in stone jars in such manner that they will all be 
 in contact with the syrup. Pour syrup at 20° Beaume over the 
 fruit, being careful not to have it too hot, repeating the opera- 
 tion twice the first day. To the first syrup add one ounce of 
 sulphite of soda for each four gallons of syrup. After this drain 
 every two days, raising the syrup one degree each time until 
 26° is reached. Pour the syrup warm, never boiling hot. Can 
 or bottle, cover with hot syrup at 25° Beaume, seal and process. 
 Quart cans, 12 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 8 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 10 " " " « 
 
 Pint " 6 " " " « 
 
 RHUBARB IN SYRUP. 
 
 Cut in pieces from 1^ to 2 inches long. Put the 
 raw rhubarb in the jars and cover with hot syrup at 
 25° Beaume. 
 
 Seal and process 15 minutes. 
 
 CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take candied chestnuts and place them in cans 
 or jars, and add to each a small vanilla bean (of 
 those used to flavor the syrup when candying) and 
 cover with 30° Beaume syrup. Seal and process. 
 
 Jar for chcHt- 
 nnU<. Plums, 
 Berries, etc. 
 
29 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 7 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 GREEN ALMONDS. 
 
 Take large unripe almonds, but soft enough to per- 
 mit piercing through with a needle. Throw them in a 
 very strong potash bath, strong enough to dissolve the outer 
 wooly skin in 30 minutes. Stir at intervals to bring all the 
 almonds and all their surface in contact with the potash. 
 Rinse in cold running water for 15 minutes, after which time 
 boil them in water containing one ounce sulphite of soda to each 
 four gallons of water until softened. Rinse in cold, running 
 water, pour back in the kettle and bring to boil in water lightly 
 colored with "emerald green" (aniline color). Place the almonds 
 in the stone jars, cover with boiling syrup at 18°. Leave it stand 
 for 24 hours, then drain the syrup, reboil at 20° and pour back 
 into the jars. Continue this operation every two days, increasing 
 the strength each time until 24° is reached. Leave three days, 
 then put in cans or jars, covering with 25° syrup, seal and 
 process. 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 5 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 3 " " " " 
 
 NUTS IN SYRUP. 
 
 Take unripe nuts. The outside shell must be soft so that 
 a needle may pierce it easily. Peel them with a knife making 
 heavy flat peels, throw them in cold Avater containing one ounce 
 sulphite of soda to each three gallons of water. The water 
 will turn perfectly black. Change the water several times, 
 using the same quality of sulphite of soda. When the water 
 has become considerably clearer, place the nuts in a kettle, add 
 water containing one ounce sulphite of soda to each four gallons 
 of water, and boil. After five minutes, drain the water off and 
 cover with fresh water containing same quantity of sulphite- 
 
30 
 
 Oontinue this operation until you liave perfectly white nuts. 
 If they are still too dark and have been softened by the sub- 
 sequent blanching, it would injure the nuts to boil them further. 
 Finish the blanching by leaving the nuts in a very strong cold 
 solution of sulphite, say one ounce for each gallon. When white 
 rinse several times in clear water, place in stone jars and pour 
 over hot syrup of 18° Beaume to which has been added one ounce 
 sulphite to each six gallons of syrup. Leave stand for 24 hours, 
 then drain, reboil the syrup at 20° and pour over the nuts. Con- 
 tinue this operation every two days, increasing the strength of 
 the syrup 1° each time until 25° is reached. Can or bottle and 
 cover with hot sugar syrup at 20°. Seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 9 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 5 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 4 " " 
 
 Pint " 2 " " " " 
 
 MEDLARS IN SYRUP. 
 
 This fruit is used but little in the United States and is 
 known as German Medlar. It has very little flavor and is used 
 as a change when tired of other fruits. 
 
 Pierce the medlars several times with a copper needle from 
 stem to bottom and throw in water containing one ounce alum 
 to four gallons water. Leave one hour, then rinse and blanch 
 in water containing one ounce sulphite of soda to each five 
 gallons of water. Boil slowly until softened, refresh in cold, 
 running water, allow to dry for one hour and put in stone jars. 
 Cover with hot, boiling syrup at 20° Beaume, leave stand over 
 night, drain, reboil the sjTup at 25°, and pour again over fruit. 
 Twenty-four hours later drain, put in cans or bottles and dip 
 with boiling syrup at 22°. Seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 10 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 5 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 3 " " " " 
 
 It is advisable to improve the appearance of the fruit by 
 coloring the last 25° syrup with "orange" aniline color. 
 
31 
 
 LIMES IN SYRUP. 
 
 Green or yellow limes are imported in the United States 
 in salt water brine (10 to 12 per cent. salt). 
 
 Wash them in cold, running water for two hours and 
 blanch them thoroughly; as their skin is hard, boiling will 
 not damage the fruits. Drain and reboil for a few minutes in 
 water to which add the coloring, green if you prepare unripe 
 fruit, light j^ellow, orange or red if you handle ripe fruits, which 
 are nearly white. Cool in cold water. 
 
 Put the fruit in stone jars, cover with hot syrup at 18° 
 Beaume, drain every day, reboiling the syrup and increasing its 
 strength one degree each time until 24° is reached, then drain 
 only every two days until 26°. Put in cans or jars and cover 
 with hot syrup at 26.° Seal and process. 
 
 Quart cans, 19 minutes in boiling water. 
 
 Pint " 7 " " " " 
 
 Quart jars, 8 " " " " 
 
 Pint " 6 " " " " 
 
 CANDIED FRUITS. 
 
 Fruits to be candied must not have reached maturity; other- 
 wise no good result can be expected. 
 
 If the fruits are to be pitted, this has to be done first; if 
 they are to be peeled, do so, throwing the fruits in light sulphite 
 of soda water to prevent them from turning black on account 
 of the contact with the steel of the knife and the oxydizing 
 action of the air. 
 
 All the fruits have to be "bleached" in the sulphur room 
 for about six hours, with exception for the peels (orange, lemon, 
 etc.), to which we will add the melons, for which this operation 
 is dispensed with. 
 
 BLEACHING. 
 
 The fruits are to be bleached as soon as they reach the 
 factory; they can be pitted after the bleaching is done. The 
 bleaching will thoroughly disinfect, stop the fermentation and 
 prevent the fruit from spoiling. From the sulphur room place 
 
32 
 
 them directly in buckets of cold water, put as many fruits as 
 you can in each bucket Avith just enough water to cover them all. 
 This water will soon be saturated with the sulphur fumes which 
 had penetrated the fruit, and be sterilized. If the buckets are 
 in a cool place, you can without fear leave the fruits there for 
 four or five days. They will not decay or mature any further. 
 
 PRICKING OF CANDIED FRUITS. 
 
 I have stated before that the skin of the cherries, green- 
 gages, etc., burst when they are put in the syrup, and I have 
 explained how this is avoided by pricking them with copper 
 needles or pins. This should be done for the fruits you wish to 
 candy. It is preferable it should be made before the bleaching; 
 however, it is often done after. In this case, throw the fruits 
 in sulphite water, one ounce sulphite of soda to six gallons of 
 water, as soon as they are pricked. (See "Pricking of the fruits.") 
 
 If the fruits are pears, figs, medlars or of similar nature, 
 it is necessary that, with a larger copper pin, they should be 
 pierced several times right through the heart and at least twice 
 lengthwise from stem to top; this is in order to facilitate the 
 blanching, and afterwards the syrup to penetrate the fruits. 
 
 BLANCHING. 
 
 The fruits are then "blanched." Place them in medium 
 warm water and heat slowly until it reaches boiling; this softens 
 the fruits, and they rise to the surface of the water. Pick tnem 
 up either with a skimmer or a confectioners' fork with very long, 
 flat teeth, lay them to cool off in cold, running water, or if they 
 are too soft, in light alum water (one ounce to eight gallons); 
 it can be increased after this, one ounce to four gallons. 
 
 If the fruits were not thoroughly bleached by the sulphur 
 fumes, you can add a little sulphite of soda to the "blanching 
 water." 
 
 When they are thoroughly cooled, place the fruits to dry 
 for one hour on white willow trays or hurdles. 
 
 CANDYING. 
 
 Lay your fruits gently in earthenware or stone jars, pour 
 over hot syrup, marking from 14° to 20° Beaume, drain after six 
 
I 
 
 33 
 
 to twelve hours, reboil the syrup, adding sugar or glucose in 
 -oi'der to reach two degrees more. After this every three days 
 jOi'ain, reboil your syrup, always increasing its strength a little 
 until it reaches 33°. 
 
 The fruits by this time ought to be candied, clear and firm. 
 Be especially- careful not to use too hot syrup for the first sugar 
 bath and always give the fruit time to absorb the sugar. Syrup 
 below 27° penetrates easily in the fruit, if stronger it requires 
 more time, and if the fruits are not already well filled with sugar 
 at low strength, pouring over heavy syrup would cause them to 
 harden and to shrink. 
 
 When the syrup reaches 33°, and that, after a few days 
 of contact with the fruit, you find that its strength has not 
 decreased, it shows that the fruits are not absorbing sugar any 
 more, they are saturated. At this stage you can rest; leave the 
 fruits in the syrup as long as you may desire, days, weeks or 
 months. They will not spoil, provided they are kept in a cool 
 and dark place. * 
 
 Should you at this time or at any period during the prepara- 
 tion find foam or mold on the top of the jars, it would be a sign 
 of fermentation, you must check its progress at once. Drain the 
 syrup, bring it to boil, pour hot over the fruits; repeat the opera- 
 tion once more 30 minutes later. 
 
 The sugar at 33° is liable to take in a lump or to candy. 
 To avoid this add to your syrup when it reaches 32° a table- 
 spoonful of acetic acid per gallon of syrup; in addition we rec- 
 ommend also a spoonful of glucose. 
 
 CANDYING IN GLUCOSE. 
 
 The fruits can be candied in pure sugar syrup or glucose 
 syrup. The former preserves better the flavor of the fruit, but 
 fruits candied in glucose are transparent, retain their original 
 shape and look and sell better. 
 
 With glucose there is no danger of the syrup taking in lump, 
 there is much less fermentation, and at any rate I would advise 
 for practical work to use at least 1-3 of glucose. 
 
34 
 
 COLORING FRUITS. ' 
 
 All the white fruit can be made green, pink, red or g< 
 yellow by merely adding the color to the water when blanchin< 
 however, for many, such as medlars, pears and cherries, much 
 better result is obtained in adding the color to the syrup when 
 it reaches 27 or 28° Beaume, when near the end of the sugar 
 absorbtion process. 
 
 ESPECIAL STONE JARS FOR CANDYING. . 
 
 By handling the fruits you destroy their shape and hurt 
 them more or less. By using jars made for the purpose you 
 will avoid the loss, as all the torn fruits can only be used for 
 jams, and all the labor and time spent on them is wasted; 
 therefore, it will pay to have the proper jars. 
 
 They should hold two to three gal- 
 lons and be cylindrical, with an opening 
 on the side, level with the bottom; this 
 will allow you to drain the syrup with- 
 out disturbing the fruits. This opening 
 should be closed with a cork or, better, 
 Avith a piece of wood. The fruits have 
 a tendency to raise to the surface; this 
 would cause fermentation. Keep them 
 down by placing on them a perforated 
 cover also of earthenware; this cover, 
 being of smaller diameter than the open- 
 ing of the jar, will enter and rest on the 
 fruits. By its weight it will keep them 
 under the level of the syrup. 3.) 
 
 Should your hot syrup be poured over the fruits it would 
 damage them; being very heavy it would tear those on the 
 top which would receive the first shock. Here will the cover 
 again prove its usefulness. The syrup will strike it, and 
 will cover the fruits without causing any damage. 
 
 The jars should be covered with a cover having near its cen- 
 tre a hole of one inch in diameter to allow the circulation of air, 
 this cover should be made of wood or cardboard and is never to be 
 placed on jars before they and their contents are cold. 
 
 Fig. 3 
 
i 35 
 
 V 
 
 The work should be done in a cool place. A basement is the 
 
 /|host appropriate, and the stone jars should be kept in as dark 
 
 • a place as possible, the daylight discoloring the fruit; this is 
 
 also the best means to keep away from the flies and bees; they 
 
 are very disagreeable and undesirable hosts. 
 
 FRUITS IX BKAXDY WITH CANDIED FRUITS. 
 
 Xow that you have a stock of candied fruits you can, at 
 pleasure, turn them into the highest grade of preserves by 
 merely bottling them, covering them with syrup and processing, 
 or make the highest grade of fruits in brandy by bottling and 
 <;overing with 
 
 Four quarts proof spirit, 
 
 One quart 32° syrup, 
 
 and sealing airtightly. Or make crystalized or glace fruits. 
 
 1° CRYSTALIZED FRUITS. 
 
 Drain your syrup from the stone jars, reboil it between 34 
 -and 35°, pour over the fruits; four days later drain. The syrup 
 is heavy, and it will be a slow operation. Reboil it at 36° and 
 p«'ur over the fruits again. Six days later your fruits are ready 
 to be dried. Drain the syrup, take the fruits out one by one, 
 washing them gently with a sponge and a little fresh water, 
 lay them side by side, their best side up, on silver plated or 
 tinned copper- wire trays. Take them to dry in the hot room 
 which is kept at a temperature from 70° to 80° Fahrenheit. 
 The outer surface of the fruit must be thoroughly dried, in 
 fact they must not stick to the fingers if touched with dry 
 hriids. 
 
 The small fruit as cherries, gages, etc. are not washed with 
 the sponge, simply drain the syrup, add water and boil it, 
 reducing its strength to about 10° Beaume. Pour over the 
 fruits while hot and leave not over three minutes, stiring with 
 a wooden spoon, drain and place the fruits on the wire or hair 
 sieve to dry in the hot room for about forty-eight hours. 
 
 When the fruits are perfectly dry, they are placed in the 
 •crystalization boxes, one next to the other if they are pears. 
 
36 
 
 melou slices etc., and two or even three layers in tliickness if 
 they are small fruits such as cherries. 
 
 To prepare the crystalization syrup you must use the best 
 sugar you can obtain, bright lump sugar gives good result 
 while the dull mat sugar gives a poor crystilization. Dissolve 
 eight pounds of sugar per gallon of cold water, stirring once 
 in a while, w^hen dissolved place on fire and heat until it 
 marks 33° Beaume when boiling. Should any greasy spots 
 appear on the surface, remove them with a wet sponge. As 
 soon as 33° is reached remove the kettle from the fire and 
 place it in a bucket of cold water as near as possible to the 
 table on which are the crystalization boxes containing the 
 fruits. 
 
 Do not stir or disturb the kettle in any way; it might 
 cause the sugar to take in a lump. 
 
 Cover your fruits with a wire screen so as to prevent them 
 to float w^hen you willl cover them with syrup. When your 
 1 ettle is cold take it gently by its hi^ndles and pour its contents 
 over the fruits in the crystalization boxes. Leave them undis- 
 turbed; it will take from six to twelve hours for the crystals to 
 form and surround the fruits. When you judge the crystals 
 to be of proper size, you incline the boxes allowing the syrup to 
 drain. It requires about six hours to drain all the syrup of 
 the tray. Leave the fruits in the crystalization boxes over night 
 to dry the crj^stals, and only take the fruits out when there 
 is no moisture left. 
 
 The whole operation has to be made very carefully but 
 it is done easily after a little practice. The main points are: 
 
 1. The fruits must be perfectly dry when placed in the 
 crystalization boxes, otherwise they will not crystalize. 
 
 2. Not to disturb the crystalization syrup as it is liable 
 to take in a lump in either the kettle or the crystalization 
 boxes. It would in the latter case be the cause of great annoy- 
 ance. 
 
 GLACE FRUITS. 
 
 Instead of being crystalized, the fruits as they come out 
 dry from the hot room, can be glazed in sugar. They are then 
 known as "Glace fruits." 
 
h 
 
 Dissolve and boil iu a small kettle sugar and water, sivim 
 and boil until, after plunging the skimmer in the syrup and 
 blowing on it, the syrup will form air bulbs on the back of the 
 holes perforated in the skimmer. At this time pour a small 
 quantity of the fruits in the kettle, boil one minute longer, 
 and remove the kettle from fire. Without losing any time, 
 start taking the fruits out one by one with a long toothed fork 
 and lay them side by side on a tinned wire tray or sieve to allow 
 the excess of sugar to drip. Take these trays in the hot room 
 until entirely dry. 
 
 During this preparation you must use special care: 
 
 1. That your fruits be first very dry. 
 
 2. Work a small batch at the time. 
 
 3. Do not handle the fruits with your fingers, but with 
 the long toothed fork. 
 
 4. Always lay your fruits to dry on the wire trays best 
 or nicest side up. 
 
 5. Do not dry too quickly in the hot room; the coating 
 would turn white. It must remain colorless as its object is 
 not only to help preserving the fruit but also to give it a 
 "glace" making its color appear brighter. This sugar coating 
 must improve the appearance of the fruit, not spoil it. 
 
 THE USE OF SUGAR AND GLUCOSE IN CONNECTION 
 WITH FRUIT FROM A CHEMICAL POINT OF VIEW. 
 
 During all the previous preparations in which we have used 
 sugar syrup, you have noted that for preparing candied fruits 
 pure sugar could be used, cane or beet sugar are alike; a hot 
 solution of them at 33°Beaume crystalizes or takes in a lump. 
 As to completely saturate the fruits of sugar, stronger solutions 
 ranging from 33° to 36° Beaume must be used, it is necessary 
 to add to the syrup (when it reaches 32°) a certain quantity 
 of acid. This acid will transform the crystalizable sugar of which 
 the chemical formula is C12 Hll Oil in uncrystalizable sugar 
 sugar which formula is C12 H12 012. 
 
 For this we have added a small proportion of acetic acid and 
 a part only of the sugar has been transformed. Instead of doing 
 this, the same result would have been obtained by increasing 
 
■ 38 
 
 the strength of the syrup by adding glucose instead of sugar. 
 The glucose has the same formula as the interverted sugar 
 (uncrystalizable) C12 H12 012 +2 HO. 
 
 I have recommended thp use of glucose because the candied 
 fruits saturated by it are harder, of brighter color and have more 
 transparency. It is often claimed that it spoils the flavor of the 
 fruit. This may be if you use glucose with a sulphur taste. 
 The glace fruits are also too sweet, the natural flavor of the 
 fruit can hardly pierce through the excess of sweetness. If you 
 use glucose, the flavor of the fruit has a better chance to show 
 as the glucose is much less sweet than the sugar. It requires 
 21 parts of glucose to sweeten as much as one part of cane 
 sugar. 
 
 The sugar contained in the fruits, grapes etc. is noncrystal- 
 izable and chemically is glucose. Practically no chemist will 
 be able to state whether the fruits have been candied in syrup 
 or glucose. He can prove that the analyzed fruit contains such 
 a percentage of crystalizable sugar and such a percentage of 
 uncrystalizable sugar, but whether this uncrystalizable sugar 
 is crystalizable sugar which we have "interverted" by addition 
 of acid or if it is glucose, that he cannot specify. 
 
 Should the chemist find traces of sulphuric acid, he will 
 deduct that this uncrystalizable sugar is commercial glucose 
 because the commercial glucose is produced by the action of 
 acids on fecula and starch, and that the acid used for the purpose 
 is the "sulphuric." But, if instead of ascetic acid we had added 
 to our 32° syrup a few drops of sulphuric acid, we would have 
 "interverted" our sugar. We would have glucose now, but 
 pure sugar just the same. 
 
 CANDIED PEARS. 
 
 It is difficult to obtain the right kind of fruits for this 
 work. Most of the pears are too large. This is probablj'^ the 
 main reason why candied pears are imported from Prance where 
 the manufacturers have on hand several varieties just suitable 
 for this work. These also offering the advantage of successive 
 maturity, some ripening in August successively down to the end 
 of October. 
 
39 
 
 The most popular sort is known as "Poire Anglaise" or 
 "Poire d' Augieterre" the "Cramoisine" being next. The 
 "Kousselet" being the lower grade. However, all small pears 
 with hard flesh can be candied. 
 
 Take unripe fruit, bleach for at least six hours in the 
 sulphur closet, then throw them in cold water. You may leave 
 them in this water several days without danger of spoiling. 
 Regular peeling machines are used, scrape the stem and stick 
 several times the long copper needle through the fruit from the 
 eye to the stem, piercing the core, place them in the basket 
 of the blanching kettle filled with water containing one ounce of 
 sulphite of soda to four gallons of water. Heat slowly and 
 bring to a light boil, maintain until the pears are softened 
 and a needle can easily pierce them through the core. Pick the 
 white pears with the skimmer or a large flat fork, putting them 
 in a cold water tank to cool off. After one or two hours in 
 cold water, place the fruits in earthenware jars and pour over 
 hot syrup (at 20° Beaume boiling) to which has been added 
 one ounce of sulphite of soda to each five gallons of syrup, six 
 to twelve hours later drain, reboil increasing the syrup to 
 22'', pour over. Increase two degrees every two days but by 
 addition of glucose instead of sugar and after 28° is reached, 
 drain and reboil only every three days, increasing each time one 
 degree until 83° is reached, when the pears should be thor- 
 oughly candied, be milk white and transparent. 
 
 PINK PEARS. 
 
 They can be colored pink by addition of carmine or aniline 
 color when the syrup reaches 28° 
 
 GLACE PEARS. 
 Glace pears see "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED QUINCE. 
 
 BLANCHING. i 
 
 CANDYING. 
 
 This is a rather difficult fruit to candy on account of its ten- 
 dency to to transform the syrup into a solid jelly and also on 
 
40 
 
 account of its turning easily dark brown if the syrup used is a lit- 
 tle too hot. 
 
 Peel, slice and core the quinces, throw them into cold water 
 to which one ounce of suljjhite of soda has been iidded to eacli 
 six gallons of water. Dry for one hour on trays and bleach 
 in sulphur room over night. Blanch in the previous cold water 
 bath or a similar one, heating slowly until boil]'n<>' is reached, 
 but it must not boil. 
 
 Place the quinces in earthenware jars and pour over luke- 
 warm syrup at 20"^ Bejiume. Twenty-four hours later, drain, 
 reboil syrup at 22° and pour over again. Repeat the operation 
 every three days untilt 32° is reached, then the quinces are 
 candied. Should the syrup be hot in any of the operation, 
 which is made increasing each time the strength of the syrup 
 of two degrees, the quinces would turn of dark color. It would 
 also cause the whole to take into a solid jelly. 
 
 CRYSTALIZED QUINCE. 
 See crystal ized fruits. 
 
 GLACE QUINCE. 
 See glace fruits. 
 
 CANDIED CHERRIES. 
 BLEACHING, CANDYING, COLORING. 
 
 "Bigarreaux" cherries are the best. They must not be ripe. 
 Bleach the cherries over night in sulphur fumes. In case 
 of "rush" five hours will be enough provided the layer of fruit 
 on the white willow hurdles is not over two inches. They must 
 be perfectly white when taken out of the sulphur closet. It is 
 necessary that this operation be made in the shortest time possi- 
 ble after the fruit has been picked. If they have been long in the 
 baskets or boxes, they will show dark spots which will later 
 turn black. Such fruits should only be used for pulp, jams etc. 
 The vapor of suljjhur has destroyed all the ferments which 
 were on the skin of the fruit, therefore if the cherries are 
 immediately put up in wooden buckets or barrels, covered 
 
41 
 
 with fresh water, they will keep for several days without decay- 
 ing or ripening further. One ounce of sulphite of soda should 
 be added to each thirty quarts of water; this would insure the 
 most perfect keeping by sterilizing the water. This applies 
 to all varieties of small fruits. 
 
 The cherries are pitted and blanched, thrown into cold 
 running water where they may be allowed to staj^ from fifteen 
 minutes to one hour. Then let the fruit dry out for a while in 
 willow baskets or on hurdles. Then proceed with the candying. 
 
 Place the cherries in the earthenware jars and pour hot boil- 
 ing syrup at 22° Beaume (when boiling) over them, leave one 
 hour, then drain the sjrup, boil to 24° and pour over the cher- 
 ries. Leave twenty-four hours, drain the syrup, add sugar and 
 boil bringing to 25°, pour over the cherries. Repeat the oper- 
 ation three times more every second day. The strength of 
 the sjrup is then to be increased to 27°. Three days later, 
 drain, and increase to 28°. Three days later increase to 30° 
 adding to the syrup a small quantity of carmine to color the 
 cherries red. The carmine will give a soft and even color to 
 the fruit, and aniline colors must not be used; they color the 
 flesh darker than they do the skin, thus giving a disagreeable 
 appearance to the part of the cherry where the pit is taken out, 
 besides the aniline color fades by the action of the light. It 
 would spoil quickly the natural and pleasant look of the canaied 
 fruit. 
 
 Resume the draining four days later, boiling the syrup at 32° 
 by addition of glucose instead of sugar. Repeat this operation 
 twice. At the next boiling increase the strength of the syrup to 
 33° by adding some more glucose. 
 
 This operation is to be repeated until the syrup is found to 
 remain at 33° after four days of contact with the fruit. This 
 will show that they have absorbed all the sugar they possibly 
 could. The cherries must then be very transparent, be full 
 and of light color. 
 
 The cherries are kept in the stone jars until sale is made. 
 They are delivered to the trade either "candied" simply dried 
 Tip, "crystalized," or "glace." 
 
42 
 
 CANDIED CHERRIES OR "MI SUCRE." 
 
 Increase the strength of the syrup progressively to 36* 
 Beaume, dry the cherries in the hot room and pack in boxes. 
 
 CRYSTALIZED CHERRIES. 
 
 See crystalized fruit. 
 
 GLACE CHERRIES. 
 See glace fruits. 
 
 CANDIED GREENGAGES. 
 BLANCHING, CANDYING. 
 
 Take green, unripe fruits and treat them exactly as if for 
 canning or bottling in syruj). Do not forget to add the few 
 grains of "Emerald green" to the blanching water. 
 
 From the last cold water bath place them on willow trays 
 or hurdles allowing them to dry for one hour. Put them in the 
 earthenware jars and pour over hot sugar syrup making 25° 
 Beaume when boiling. Eight hours later drain, reboil the 
 syrup and increase its strength one degree Beaume by the 
 addition of glucose. The syrup must always be poured gently 
 over these fruits and never too hot. The gages would break or 
 fall to pieces. Remember the flesh has nothing to hold it as the 
 skin has bursted and curled during the first part of the process. 
 When 33° is reached the gages are candied. They should have 
 kept their shape, be firm and of good natural green. 
 Do not attempt to candy this fruit with pure sugar syrup 
 only. It would cause you trouble as it ferments much easier 
 than -when glucose is employed. Besides, the glucose will not 
 effect the flavor as the stone and pit contain enough. 
 
 Store them in stone jars. 
 
 GLACE GAGES 
 See "glace fruits." 
 
 DRIED PLUMS. 
 
 All the varieties of plums are to be treated same as the 
 greengages. 
 
43 
 
 CANDIED PEACHES. 
 
 BLANCHING, CANDYING. 
 
 These fruits being watery do not keep a fragrant flavor 
 when saturated with sugar and therefore meet with limited 
 demand. 
 
 Take firm fruits, peel them, throw in cold water to which a 
 small quantity of potash has been added, this to keep them 
 from turning black on account of the contact of the knife while 
 peeling. Put in kettle containing hot water, bring to slow boil- 
 ing, cool off in cold running water, picking the fruits with a 
 skimmer. 
 
 Put in stone jars and pour over hot syrup making 25° 
 Beaume when boiling and to which has been added one ounce 
 of sulphite of soda to each six gallons of syrup. Twelve hours 
 later, drain, reboiling the syrup and add sugar to bring back to 
 25° Repeat the operation each two days until it reaches 
 29°, then each three days until 33° increasing each time one 
 degree but from 28° up increase by addition of glucose instead 
 of sugar. 
 
 The peaches are then stored in stone jars. 
 
 The peaches can be colored red by addition of aniline 
 raspberry red, to the hot water bath when blanching, or green. 
 In this case take very green unripe fruits. 
 
 GLACE PEACHES. 
 
 See "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED APRICOTS. 
 
 BLEACHING, BLANCHING, CANDYING. 
 
 Pit the fruit which must be nearly ripe, slightly yellow. 
 Bleach in sulphur closet over night, and wash them 
 thoroughly in cold running water (or in a bucket of water con- 
 taining one half ounce of alum to each twelve gallons water). 
 Prick with copper needles and put in medium hot water. They 
 will go to the bottom. Heat gradually, and as it reaches 
 boiling, the apricots will slowly come to the surface. Pick 
 them gently one by one with the skimmer and place them in 
 
•cold water containing one half ounce of alum for each twelve 
 gallons of water. Then strain the water, put in the earthen- 
 ware jars, and cover over with the regular hot syrup marking 
 25° Beaume to which has been added one ounce of sulphite 
 of soda to each six gallons of syrup. Twenty-four hours after, 
 drain the syrup, reboil adding necessary quantity of sugar 
 to reach 25° and pour boiling over the fruit. Repeat the oper- 
 iition every two days until you reach 28° and then every three 
 until 33°. The apricots are then candied. They must be clear 
 and transparent, be of light and even color. The addition of 
 the sulphite will greatly help to obtain this. 
 
 The fruits can then be stored in the stone jars until "Crysta- 
 lized" or "Glace." Before doing either of these the apricots must 
 be taken each separately, washed with the hands in water and 
 dried in the hot room maintained at about 80° Fahrenheit. 
 "They must be thoroughly dried. 
 
 CRYSTALIZED AN]> GLAOE APRICOTS. 
 (See crystalized and glace fruits.) 
 
 CANDIED STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 To obtain hue-shaped ,transparent capdied strawberries all 
 lies in the skill of the confectioner. The skill is only acquired by 
 practical work and constant attention, this fruit being the most 
 delicate of all. 
 
 I will recommend two different formulas. 
 
 Bleach the berries in the sulphur room, rinse in cold alum 
 water and allow to dry for one hour. Put the berries on silver- 
 coated wire trays, place then the trays one over the other in an 
 enameled iron kettle or earthenware jar, pour over cold syrup 
 at 28°, leave twenty-four hours, drain and replace with new syrup 
 of same strength, leaving for twenty-four hours more. Drain, 
 reduce the syrup by addition of water to 18° Beaume, allowing 
 to partially cool off and pour over the fruit when slightly warm. 
 Six hours later, before leaving for the night, drain and replace 
 with syrup at 19°. Each twelve hours replace with syrup a 
 degree stronger, always pouring it warm and not hot until 24° 
 
45 
 
 is reached, then leave twenty-four hours between each operation 
 until 28°, then take SO** syrup, leave three days and 32^ after. 
 The berries must then be full of sugar and transparent, ii not 
 sufficiently firm the syrup is to be drained, reboiled at a greater 
 degree and poured over again. The syrup of the last operation 
 is to be colored red if this color of fruit is desired. The syrup- 
 used should be mostly glucose. 
 
 The berries are then ready to be transformed into 
 
 WIESBADEN COMPOTE. 
 (See strawberries in syrup.) 
 
 CRYSTALIZED STRAWBERKIES. 
 
 (See crystalized fruits.) 
 
 GLACE STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 (See glace fruits.) 
 
 The other process is the following: 
 
 Place the berries in the earthenware jars and pour over 19° 
 syrup warm, not hot, to w:hich has been added one ounce of sul- 
 phite of soda to each three gallons of syrup and follow the same 
 range of increased strength as decribed here above. 
 
 The berries employed must be fresh picked and firm. 
 Should they have a tendency to soften, increase the strength of 
 the syrup, should they shrink and turn hard and coarse, the 
 strength of the syrup must be reduced. Should white mould ap- 
 pear on the syrup, drain and reboil it at once, repeating the op- 
 eration twice during the time named for one operation. The jars 
 should be kept in a dark place during the whole Drocess. 
 
 CANDIED PINEAPPLE. 
 
 BLEACHING, CANDYING. 
 
 Peel and slice one-half inch thick. Bleach sixteen hours in 
 the sulphur closet, wash in cold water. If you have a large 
 quantity of apples you can leave them in this water for two days 
 without injury to the fruit. Put in stone jars and pour over hot 
 boiling syrup at 16° Beaume. Twenty-four hours later drain, 
 
46 
 
 xeboii the syrup at 18% pour over. Kepeat the operatiou every 
 two days until 28° is reached. The Pineapple is one of tlie 
 easiest fruits to candy as it does not ferment easily. Leave them 
 in the jars, give them time to absorb the sugar, increasing the 
 ^strength of the syrup progressively until 36°. To candy, pour the 
 contents of your jars in the kettle, heat slowly to melt the 
 •«yrup, wash gently each slice with a sponge and cold water. Dry 
 in the hot room until the outer surface is perfectly dry. 
 
 GLACE PINEAPPLE. 
 (See Glace fruits.) 
 
 CANDIED BANANAS. 
 
 Peel by hand the bananas, not using any knives or metal, 
 ^nd dip them for one hour in cold water to which has been added 
 one ounce of alum and one-quarter ounce of sulphite of soda per 
 gallon of water. Lay the bananas on white willow trays or 
 hurdles and sulphur them for three hours. Owing to the softness 
 of this fruit it is not advisable to leave them in the sulphur closet 
 over night. 
 
 Put in stone jars and pour over lukewarm . syrup at 25° 
 Beaume. After twelve hours, drain, reboil at 26°, pour over. 
 After this increase one degree only and drain every three days 
 until 36° is reached. For the last operations increase the tem- 
 perature of the syrup from lukewarm to hot. 
 
 If the bananas ai'e not of satisfactoi'y color, then add some 
 "gold yellow" aniline color to the syrnp, boiling it iind pouring 
 over the fruits. 
 
 CANDIED FIGS. 
 
 Prepare them exactly as described for "Figs in Syrup," but 
 from 26° syrup, drain every four days, increasing its strength 
 2° Beaume each time until Su^ is reached. 
 
 GLACE FIGS. 
 (See Glace fruits.) 
 
47 
 
 CANDIED MELONS. 
 WHOLE MELONS. SLICED MELONS. 
 
 The process is the same as for "Melons in Syrup/' but after 
 you have used the 25° syrup, continue the operation until 35<* 
 syrup is reached, draining and reboiling the syrup every four 
 days. 
 
 Whole melons are to be treated in the same way. It you 
 would take the melon just as it grows, the sugar would never be 
 able to penetrate the inside, therefore the melon laying flat on 
 the table and holding a pointed knife perfectly perpendicular, 
 cut through the skin and flesh a circular hole, having the stem 
 as centre and of the diameter of a table spoon. This will act as a 
 cork which you will be able to place back later. Do the same on 
 the bottom and with a spoon take out the seeds. 
 
 The whole melon is then blanched and put in syrup, etc., 
 same as for the slices, and at the same time treat the top and 
 bottom which you will use to close up the top and bottom holes. 
 If the stem of the melon has one or two small leases you may 
 leave them on, thej will be candied with the melon. 
 
 Of course during the whole process the melon is to lay flat 
 so as to enable the syrup to go through the centre. Do not forget 
 that you must never pour over melons boiling hot syrup, it would 
 soften them too much, pour it warm. 
 
 GLACE MELONS. 
 (Sec Glace fruits.) >■ 
 
 CANDIED WATERMELONS. 
 
 Watermelon peels are candied same as melons. 
 
 CANDIED ANGELICA. 
 BLANCHING, CANDYING. 
 
 Blanch the sticks in plain boiling water adding "Emerald 
 Green" to maintain a bright green color. Cool off in cold running 
 water. 
 
48 
 
 Place the sticks standing one next to the other in a stone 
 jar of proper height or an especially made high tin can if your 
 jars are too short. 
 
 Pour over hot boiling syrup at 22° Beaume, drain three hours 
 later, reboil at 23° and pour over again. Twelve hours later 
 drain and reboil the syrup at 24°. Repeat the operation four 
 times, once every three days until 26° is reached. Then every five 
 days increasing 2° each time until S5^ is reached. If you desire 
 perfectly round sticks, they may be obtained by sliding the small 
 ones into the larger after the blanching and taking them out 
 after the sugar process is over. 
 
 GLACE ANGELICA. 
 
 Increase the strength of sjrup progressively to 36° and fin- 
 ish same as "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED CHESTNUTS. 
 
 The kind used is imported from Europe and known as 
 "Lyons" or "Torino" marrons. 
 
 The skill lies in keeping them whole and of light, clear, 
 chestnut color. They are soft and brittle and should be handled 
 with greatest care. With the point of a knife, make a semi-circle 
 cut in the bottom of each chestnut, the cut going from one end 
 to the other of the broadest side. The outer skin only should be 
 cut, if you cut deeper it would cut the inside peel and the water 
 would be in direct contact with the chestnut and it would soften 
 it too much on that part of the fruit. Lay them in the basket 
 of thfc kettle, cover with water and boil slowly until the water 
 is quite brown, drain and cover with clear, hot boiling water, 
 boil and change the water as often as the water is dark brown. 
 It must be a very slow boiling, this is to say the water is to be 
 kept between 208° and 212o all the time. It must not disturb the 
 chestnuts as it would break them. After six hours, take the 
 chestnuts out, peel them and place on a flat bottom in the copper 
 kettle. The Hat bottom is generally a perforated tinned sheet 
 iron. Cover with hot syrup at 24° Beaume to which add one 
 ounce sulphite of soda to each six gallons of syrup, turn the steam 
 and keep them hot, not boiling, until night. Do not disturb 
 
49 
 
 them, but next morning early resume the heating, maintaining all 
 day, only adding once In a while some more, but stronger syrup. 
 Continue the operation as late at night as possible, leaving it only 
 to start the next morning at as early an hour as you can. When in 
 the evening, if your syrup is over 34° Beaume, take some of the 
 chestnuts and ascertain if they are thoroughly candied; if they 
 are, let them cool off in the syrup ; if they are not, continue heat- 
 ing as late as possible; resume the next morning until thoroughly 
 candied. It will take in the whole about forty hours exclusive of 
 the time at night when it was not heated. 
 
 When cold take them out of the syrup, one or two at a time, 
 lay them on tinned wire trays to dry for two days. The syrup is 
 to be at least two thirds glucose during the whole operation and 
 should be flavored with a few vanilla beans or vanillin. 
 
 GLACE M ARROW OR CHESTNUTS. 
 
 See "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED GREEN ALMONDS. 
 
 Heat exactly same as for almonds in syrup, but after 24 '^ 
 Beaume syrup has been reached, drain and reboil every four days 
 until 33° is reached. Do not hasten, give the almonds time to 
 absorb sugar. 
 
 GLACE ALMONDS. 
 See "Glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED NUTS. 
 
 Treat exactly same as for nuts in syrup, but after the syrup 
 has reached 25° Beaume, drain only every four days and reboil 
 each time, increasing the strength of one degree Beaume. At 
 33° the nuts are candied. 
 
 GLACE NUTS. 
 
 See "glace fruits.". 
 
50 
 
 CANDIED MEDLARS. 
 
 Treat exactly as the "Medlars in syrup," but from 25° syrup, 
 drain every four days, increasing the strength of the syrup two 
 degrees Beaume each time, until 33° is reached. Give them time 
 to absorb the syrup. At the last operation color the syrup 
 with "Orange" color. 
 
 GLACE MEDLARS. 
 See "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED ORANGE PEELS. 
 SALTED OR FRESH PEELS. 
 
 If you use imported peels (in salt water 10 per cent.) wash 
 them in clear water for two hours. This not necessary if you use 
 fresh peels. 
 
 Blanch the peels thoroughly, boiling them on slow fire in 
 water until they are all well softened, otherwise they will not 
 take the sugar. Put in stone jars and cover with hot syrup at 
 22° containing one ounce of sulj)hite of soda to each four gallons 
 of syrup, drain a few hours later, reboil at same degree and pour 
 over. 
 
 Drain every day and reboil one degree higher until 24° is 
 reached. Drain them and reboil every three days, repeating this 
 operation six times, increasing gradually the strength, but not 
 going over 26° degrees for the last Then every eight days drain; 
 reboil two degrees higher until ^3° is reached. You should 
 not go over this strength. 
 
 Put as many peels in the jars as you can and keep them 
 down with a disk of stoneware with holes as a sieve to let the 
 syrup pass through the whole surface. 
 
 CANDIED WHOLE ORANGES. 
 
 Treat them same way as the peels, but in order to allow the 
 sugar to go in the inside, cut a round disc on top, this top will be 
 candied at the same time as the orange and will be used to close 
 the hole after the process is over. Bleach them as long as pos- 
 sible. The large copper needle must go through the skin and 
 
51 
 
 fruit easily. It takes two hours in cold water to cool them inside, 
 two hours standing upside down to drain all the water out, then 
 put in sugar same as the peels. 
 
 GLACE WHOLE ORANGES. 
 
 See ''glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED CITRONS. 
 WHOLE AND SLICED CITRONS. 
 
 These are shipped to the United States in salt brine at 10 
 to 12 per cent. Wash the slices in running water to remove all 
 the salt and blanch them in plain water, adding a little "Emerald 
 Green" to give them a light bright color. Keep near the boiling 
 point, but do not actually boil, this breaks the fruit and separ- 
 ates the pulp from the skin. After they are softened, cool in 
 cold running water for six hours at least, it will dissolve all the 
 bitter contained in the fruit. 
 
 Put in stone jars and pour over hot syrup at 14° Beaume, 
 drain and reboil every two days, increasing the strength each 
 time until 28° is reached, then leave three days between each 
 draining until 33° is reached. 
 
 If you desire whole citrons, treat them in the same way, but 
 cut a round hole at each end, same as explained for the "Whole 
 Melon" and take the seeds out with a spoon. Save the pieces 
 t!ut off of the top and bottom, blanch and put in sugar, you will 
 use them to close up the fruit after the process is over. 
 
 Green and ripe citrons are used and treated as above. li 
 you have ripe ones they are yellow, but you can color them 
 green. If you prefer them yellow, they will be improved by 
 the addition of "Orange" aniline color to the water when blanch- 
 ing. 
 
 GLACE CITRONS. 
 
 See "glace fruits." 
 
 CANDIED MANDARINES. 
 
 This fruit is easily candied and is to be treated the same 
 as the "Whole Oranges" but as the skin of the mandarine is much 
 
52 
 
 thinner than that of the orange, do not cut a hole in the top of 
 it; merely prick it several times with the large copper needle and 
 each time piercing through the whole fruit. 
 
 GLACE MANDARINES. 
 
 Finish same as glace whole oranges. 
 
 CANDIED LEMON PEELS. 
 
 CANDIED WHOLE LEMONS. 
 
 These are imported from Sicily. They are treated same as 
 "Candied Orange Peels" which we refer you to. Same for 
 "Candied Whole Oranges," see "Candied Whole Oranges." 
 
 CANDIED LIMES. 
 
 Prepare in the same way as the "Limes in Syrup, ' but it 
 is preferable you should prick every fruit with the copper needle 
 as to enable the sugar to penetrate easier. Drain and reboil the 
 syrup four times at 26° four days between each drainage, then 
 raise two degrees each four days until 33° Beaume is reached. 
 
 GLACE LIMES. 
 
 See "Glace fruits." 
 
 SUGAR AND GLUCOSE SYRUP. 
 
 AEROMETER BEAUME. 
 
 BRIX PERCENTAGE SCALE. 
 
 The strength of the sugar syrup is measured in degrees, 
 aerometers and densimeters of various kinds have been made 
 for the purpose, the most generally universally used has been 
 invented by Beaume." Its principle is wrong; however, as long 
 as it is in general use, we will refer to it when indicating the 
 
53 
 
 strength of syrups in their various applications in the preserving 
 line. 
 
 In the "Percentage" aerometer, also known as "Brix" from 
 its constructor, each degree corresponds to one per cent, of 
 sugar, the liquids being measured at +17.5° centigrade or 
 62.6° Farenheit; This is to say a syrup which, at the temperature 
 of 62. 6o Farenheit, would mark 17" of strength, would contain 
 17 parts of sugar and 83 parts of water. 
 
 The principle on which the aerometer Beaume being al- 
 together different, it is regulated on the density of distilled water 
 at 15 centigrade (+59 Fahrenheit) this marking Beaume, each 
 degree corresponding to one per cent, of salt. That is to say, 
 that placed in salt water at +59° Fahrenheit, the aerometer mark- 
 ing 12 degrees will indicate that this water contains 12 parts of 
 salt and 88 parts of water (12 per cent, of common salt). 
 
 The aerometer Beaume is all right for salt water, but for 
 sugar water "Brix" aerometer ought to be used. 
 
 The following tables will illustrate the above. 
 
 Solubility of sugar in water from to 50 degrees Centigrade 
 or from 32 to 122 degrees Fahrenheit. 
 
 — Temperature. — Percentage of Sugar Contained in 
 
 degrees degrees The Saturated Solution. 
 
 Centigrade Fahrenheit 
 
 65 
 65.2 
 
 65.6 
 66.1 
 67 
 
 68.2 
 
 69.8 
 72.4 
 
 75.8 
 79.2 
 
 82.7 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 5 
 
 41 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 15 
 
 59 
 
 20 
 
 68 
 
 25 
 
 77 
 
 30 
 
 86 
 
 35 
 
 95 
 
 40 
 
 104 
 
 45 
 
 113 
 
 50 
 
 122 
 
54 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OP BRIX AND BEAUME 
 
 DEGREES. 
 
 Comparative table of the Beaume and Percentage of Brix 
 degrees with the corresponding density. 
 Brix Beaume Density Per cent, sugar Per cent, water Total. 
 
 2 
 6 
 10 
 14 
 20 
 24 
 28 
 34 
 40 
 45 
 50 
 60 
 70 
 80 
 90 
 100 
 
 Good quality of lump sugar is clear white and dry, broken 
 in the dark it should be phosphorescent. This accounts why 
 powdered or pulverized sugar has a nasty taste like burning. 
 
 Under the influence of heat, it attacks iron; this is the reason 
 why kettles of this metal should not be used in connection with 
 preserves or syrup. Sugar is without action on copper, tin, lead 
 and zinc. 
 
 QUICK PROCESS OP CANDYING PRUITS AND PEELS. 
 
 Candying fruits, peels etc. can be made in a more modern 
 way; the handling of stone jars, the draining of heavy syrups are 
 slow operations. 
 
 
 
 0. 
 
 1. 
 
 2 
 
 Lll 
 
 1.0078 
 
 6 
 
 3.34 
 
 1.0237 
 
 10 
 
 5.56 
 
 1.0401 
 
 14 
 
 7.77 
 
 1.057 
 
 20 
 
 n.07 
 
 1.0833 
 
 24 
 
 13.26 
 
 1.1015 
 
 28 
 
 15.44 
 
 1.1201 
 
 34 
 
 18.69 
 
 1.1491 
 
 40 
 
 21.91 
 
 1.1794 
 
 45 
 
 24.56 
 
 1.2056 
 
 50 
 
 27.19 
 
 1.2328 
 
 60 
 
 32.36 
 
 1.2899 
 
 70 
 
 37.40 
 
 1.3509 
 
 80 
 
 42.29 
 
 1.4159 
 
 90 
 
 47.02 
 
 1.4849 
 
 100 
 
 51.26 
 
 1.5578 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 98 
 
 100 
 
 94 
 
 100 
 
 90 
 
 100 
 
 86 
 
 100 
 
 80 
 
 100 
 
 76 
 
 100 
 
 72 
 
 100 
 
 66 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 100 
 
 55 
 
 100 
 
 50 
 
 100 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 30 
 
 100 
 
 20 
 
 100 
 
 10 
 
 100 
 
 — 
 
 100 
 
To candy cherries, apricots, gages in four days' time, the 
 fruits, as soon as they are blanched, should be placed in a large, 
 square copper tank, one foot deep, placed in a water bain-marie, 
 heated by gas, so as to easily regulate the fire. Cover the fruits 
 
 ^:^ ' with cold 12° Beaume 
 
 ^ 
 
 syrup; heat slowly, add- 
 ing: from time to time 
 some hot boiling syrup, 
 to take place of the evap- 
 oration and in the mean- 
 time increase the 
 strength of the syrup. 
 At the end of the fourth day, if the syn^p of the kettle marks 36°, 
 your fruits are candied, must be transparent and full of sugar 
 All the instructions given before referring to the addition of 
 acetic or glucose also apply tc this process. 
 
 It is of course understood that the given time of four days, 
 which is right for the pears, cherries and apricots, will not suit 
 all fruits. Always consider the nature of the fruit and the 
 more or less facility with which it will be penetrated by the 
 sugar. 
 
 If the fruits have a tendency to float in the syrup, a 
 grating or tinned Avire screen should be placed in the tank over 
 the fruits. The tank itself should be of enameled iron to have 
 the best results as the acid of the fruit w411 always to some 
 extent attack the copper and this is liable to color the syrup 
 and more or less effect the fruit. 
 
 If the manufacturer has possibilities to have the steam all 
 night, he should have double bottom tanks or kettles. This 
 would enable him to blanch in the same kettle without remov- 
 ing the fruits. They would be cooled with a stream of cold 
 water in the same place. 
 
 ESPECIAL QUICK PROCESS FOR PEELS. 
 
 For the fruits which contain no acid as well as for the peels, 
 a plain tank with drain faucet and a copper coil can be used. 
 In this case the work would be directed as follows: 
 
 The peels are first blanched, then cooled off, covered with hot 
 syrup at 14° Beaume. Twelve hours later drain, reboil at 17°, 
 
56 
 
 cover the fruits again. Every twelve hours drain, and reboil 
 until '23'^ is reached. Then the operation should be allowed 
 to continue slowly all by itself, very slowly as it takes time 
 for the peels to absord sugar. Ten days after the blanching, 
 the peels must be thoroughly candied, hard and transparent. 
 The same process will apply to all fruits, longer for some, 
 shorter for others, keeping the proportion required by the stone 
 jar process. The tanks are nothing but labor and time savers. 
 The candied fruits are then crystalized or glace by the regular 
 process. 
 
 FRUITS IN BRANDY. 
 
 COMMON METHOD. 
 
 Fruits in brandy are prepared in different ways, but to the 
 contrary of candied fruits, ripe fruits are required. The most 
 common method being to place the fruits in glass jars or barrels, 
 cover them with spirit at 60 per cent, (three parts double proof 
 spirit and one part water). Leave six weeks, drain and cover 
 with liquor as follows; 
 
 For better grade: 
 
 Three parts of drained spirit. 
 
 One part water. 
 
 One part cold sugar syrup at 32° Beaume. 
 
 For second grade: 
 
 Three parts drained spirit, 
 
 Two parts water. 
 
 One part cold sugar syrup at 32° Beaume. 
 
 This process gives especially good results with cherries. 
 However the high class goods are prepared same as candied 
 fruits. For these 1 refer the reader to the various special for- 
 mulas given under the headings of the different fruits. 
 
 Whatever process is used, the goods are only marketable 
 six weeks after the fruits have been covered with the liquor. 
 It requires this time for the fruits to absorb the sugar and 
 *he spirit in the required proportion to render them palatable 
 
57 
 
 When green fruits are to be put up in brandy, they must 
 be thoroughly blanched first. 
 
 PEARS IN BRANDY. 
 
 The "Beurre" and "Duchess" varieties are the best. Do 
 not bleach them in the sulphur fumes, but peel, blanch and 
 put in sugar same as for candied pears. When 29° is reached, 
 bottle and cover with liquor. 
 
 Two parts double proof spirit, 
 One part cold 32° syrup. 
 
 Cover with paper, fasten with twine, leave for one week for 
 the fruit to absorb part of the liquor, refill the jars and seal 
 with Phoenix caps lined with w^ater-proof corks. 
 
 A few grains of vanilin added to the liquor will add great- 
 ly to the flavor. 
 
 QUINCES IN BRANDY. 
 
 Peel the fruits placing them in water containing one ounce 
 of alum to each six gallons of water. Then slice, core and 
 put in glass jars and cover with proof spirit. After ono hour, 
 during which prepare a kettle of syrup at 25° Beaume and allow 
 it to cool off, throw the sliced quinces in the said syrup and heat 
 slowly until the quinces are softened. Pick the slices one by one 
 placing them in a stone jar, boil your syrup until it reaches 28° 
 and pour over the quinces. Leave thirty-six hours, then drain 
 and bottle the fruits, covering with liquor made of: 
 
 Proof Spirit in which the skins have infused, two parts, 
 cold syrup at 28° one part. Cover with parchment paper, leave 
 stand eight days, refill the jars with same liquor and seal 
 air tightly. 
 
 CHERRIES IN BRANDY. 
 VARIOUS FLAVORINGS, THEIR PREPARATION. 
 
 There are several ways of preparing cherries in brandy. 
 The best products being made as follows: 
 
 Take ripe, sour cherries, cutting the stems with scissors 
 leaving about one half inch long to the fruit, prick them with 
 
58 
 
 copper pins, throw tliem gently in medium hot alum water^ 
 and cool the cherries quickly in a cold running water bath. 
 
 Place them in a stone jar, pour over them hot 
 boiling syrup marking 15° Beaume. Twenty-four 
 hours later drain the syrup. Place them in a barrel 
 with liquor composed of: 
 
 Coriander distilled spirit 3 parts, 
 
 Chinese cinnamon " " 2 " 
 
 Cloves " " 1 " 
 
 Double proof spirit 118 " 
 
 Water 76 " 
 
 200 
 
 Bottle for Fruits 
 in Brandy. 
 
 Five weeks later the cherries have absorbed all the spirit 
 required. They are put in jars or bottles which are filled with 
 liquor made as follows: 
 
 Previous infusion liquor 70 quarts, 
 Water 20 " 
 
 Sugar (crystalized) 35 pounds. 
 
 Add a few drops of carmine to color it pale pink. Seal jar& 
 airtightly. 
 
 The cherries will keep for years and retain their strength^ 
 quality and color. Of course the liquor can be flavored with 
 other spices. A good formula is the following: 
 Stock flavor. 
 
 Infusion 
 
 of vanilla beans 
 
 4 parts,. 
 
 t( 
 
 " Ceylon cinnamon 
 
 2 " 
 
 u 
 
 " cloves 
 
 ^ " 
 
 11 
 
 " peach and apricot pits 
 
 1 " 
 
 To infuse cherries; 
 
 
 8 
 
 Stock flavor 
 
 4 parts. 
 
 
 Double proof spirit 120 " 
 
 
 W^ater 
 
 76 " 
 
 / 
 
 200 
 
59 
 
 I have here above described the preparation of the highest 
 class of brandied cherries. During the first part of the operation 
 the fruit absorbs a certain quantity of sugar. This renders^ 
 it firm and prevents it from being too easily penetrated by the 
 spirit. But it is to be remembered that the cherries must be ripe. 
 The sour cherries are the finest in flavor, but red bigarreaux 
 or white cherries can be used. The liquor of the latter is 
 always to be colored. 
 
 Low priced goods are prepared as follows : 
 
 Cut the stems at one half their length, prick with copper 
 pins, throwing them in a bucket of cold alum water for one 
 hour. 
 
 Put in barrels with spirit a few grains of vaniline and one 
 per cent, of flavor composed of: 
 
 3 parts distilled spirit of coriander, 
 2 " " " " cinnamon, 
 
 1 " " " " cloves. 
 
 Six weeks later put in jars covering with liquor made as- 
 follows: 
 
 Previous infusion liquor 60 quarts, 
 Sugar 26 pounds, 
 
 Water 30 quarts. 
 
 and seal airtightly. 
 
 GREENGAGES IN BRANDY. 
 
 The most usual process is the following: 
 
 Take greengages which are not ripe and of dark green 
 color. Cut the end of the stem leaving two-thirds of its length 
 attached to the fruit, prick with the copper pins, wash in cold 
 water and put in copper kettle with a large quantity of water to 
 which has been added one ounce of common salt to each two gal- 
 lons of water, heat slowly and as soon as it reaches 205° Fahren- 
 heit, shut off the steam and remove the greengages gently with 
 the aid of the skimmer to the cold water bath containing two 
 ounces of alum to each six gallons of water. Remove them one 
 hourlater,andallowthemtodryforanother hour on white willow 
 
60 
 
 trays or hurdles, put in earthenware jars and pour over hot sugar 
 syrup at 26°. Drain a few hours later, reboil at same degree and 
 pour over again. 
 
 Repeat the operation twenty-six hours later with syrup 
 
 at 27° and once more at 28°. 
 
 Drain and bottl 
 
 liquor : 
 
 
 Proof spirit 
 
 . 5 quarts, 
 
 Water 
 
 2 " 
 
 Syrup at 32° 
 
 1 
 
 Vanila infusion, a few drachms. 
 
 Vanillin can be used in place of vanilla. 
 
 In this process the contact of the fruit with the copper 
 of the kettle in presence of salt will make the greengages remain 
 green. For the benefit of the too scrupulous manufacturers, I 
 will give the following rec.eipt: 
 
 Prepare the fruit as described for the candied greengages, 
 but use ripe fruit. After they have been in the various syrup 
 baths up to 28°, remaining 24 hours in the latter, drain, bottle 
 and cover them with liquor as given here above. Cover with 
 paper, leave stand ten days that the gages will absorb all the 
 liquor they can, refill with the liquor and seal airtightly. 
 
 All other plums are treated the same way omitting the 
 green coloring if they are of the yellow or red variety. 
 
 PEACHES IN BRANDY. 
 
 On the market in three varieties, yellow, red and green. 
 
 1. "Yellow Peaches." 
 Take medium ripe peaches, prick with the copper pins, wash 
 in cold water and put in stone jars. Pour over hot syrup at 
 25°, drain after twelve hours, reboil at 26° leaving 3 days, 
 then bottle covering with liquor: 
 
 Proof spirit 4 quarts, 
 
 sugar syrup at 32° 1 " 
 
 and color slightly with "Lemon yellow." Cover the jars with 
 parchment paper tied around the neck, leave twelve days, give 
 the fruit time to absorb the liquor and refill the jar to the top. 
 Seal airtightly. 
 
61 
 
 2. "Ked Peaches". 
 
 Take red variety, treat exactly as for the yellow adding 
 "Kaspberry Red" aniline when bottling. 
 
 3. "Green Peaches." 
 
 Take hard, unripe peaches, peel them with the machine,, 
 wash, then blanch by throwinpj into hot boiling water colored 
 with "Emerald Green" (aniline). Boil until the fruit is softened 
 and cool off promptly in cold running water. Kesume the pro- 
 cess same as for the yellow peaches, but do not add any coloring^ 
 to the liqu(/r when bottling. 
 
 The green peaches can also be prepared by the salt process 
 as described for the greengages. 
 
 APRICOTS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Take nearly, but not yet ripe apricots, prick them with 
 the copper pins putting them m alum water (one ounce to six 
 gallons), blanch them same as for candying, placing them back 
 one by one in the alum water, drain, dry them, and put in stone 
 jars pouring over hot boiling syrup at 25° Beaume. Twenty-four 
 hours later drain, reboil the syrup at 28° and pour over. Three 
 days later drain, reboil at 30° and four days later bottle the 
 apricots covering with liquor: 
 
 Double proof spirit 2 quarts, 
 
 syrup (at 26° Beaume) 1 " 
 
 flavor with one per cent, of "Noyaux" spirit or two per cent, 
 of infusion of apricots and peach stones. 
 
 Cover the jars with paper and twine. Ten days later the apricots 
 will have absorbed all the liquid they possibly can. Refill the 
 jars with liquor and seal airtightly. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES IN BRANDY. 
 
 First Quality. Take candied strawberries, leave them in 
 cold water for about ten minutes so as to melt the outside coat- 
 ing of sugar, bottle and fill with liquor: 
 
 Double proof spirit 2 parts, 
 
 syrup at 32° 1 " 
 
62 
 
 Second Quality. Put berries in small barrel, cover with: 
 
 Double proof spirit 2 parts, 
 
 water 1 " 
 
 ^fter forty days bottle the berries, covering with liquor; 
 
 Infusion spirit 4 parts, 
 
 syrup at 32° 1 " 
 
 water 1 " 
 
 BLACKBERRIES IN BRANDY. 
 
 Put the berries in jars and cover with: 
 
 Proof alcohol 3 parts, 
 
 double proof alcohol 1 " 
 
 ^nd seal jars airtightly. After four weeks, drain and cover with 
 
 liquor: 
 
 Previous infusion spirit 3 parts, 
 
 syrup at 32° Beaume 1 " 
 
 -and seal airtightly. 
 
 FIGS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Prepare same as "Figs in Syrup," but instead of syrup fill 
 the bottle with lipuor: 
 
 Proof spirit 4 parts, 
 
 syrup at 30° 1 " 
 
 5 " 
 and seal airtightly. 
 
 Ripe figs would not have as much appearance as those pre- 
 pared as above but would have better flavor. Peel them and 
 put in glass jars covered with double proof alcohol. After ten 
 days drain. Filter the spirit, add one quart of syrup at 30° to 
 ^ach two quarts of filtered spirit and cover the fruit, then seal 
 the jars airtightly. 
 
63 
 
 NUTS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Treat same as "Nuts in Syrup," bottle and cover with liquor: 
 
 Proof spirit 4 parts, 
 
 syrup at 32° 1 " 
 
 then seal the jars. 
 
 GREEN NUTS IN BRANDY. 
 
 People who are fond of them say they are good for the 
 stomach. They are prepared as follows: 
 
 Take unripe nuts; a needle must easily pierce througn, 
 but do not prick to the heart with the copper needles. Boil in 
 water containing one ounce of sulphite to each four gallons ot 
 water. After a few minutes, when the water is black, take the 
 fruit out, throw them in a new cold bath of sulphite and water. 
 Leave a few hours and reboil in the same water. Repeat the 
 operation until the fruits are softened and the water remains 
 nearly colorless. 
 
 . Then color green by boiling a minute in plain water slightly 
 colored with "Emerald Green" (aniline color.) Rinse in clear 
 cold water, bottle, covering with same liquor as the white nuts 
 and sealing also in the same way. 
 
 MELONS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Treat same as "Melons in Syrup," but after they are bottled, 
 cover with double proof alcohol 2 parts. 
 Syrup at 30° 1 " 
 
 3 
 
 ANGELICA IN BRANDY. 
 Take candied Angelica, bottle and cover with liquor. 
 
 Proof spirit 4 parts, 
 
 Syrup at 32° 1 " 
 
 5 " 
 Seal air tightly. 
 
64 
 
 CHESTNUTS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Take candied chestnuts, put in glass jars, cover with liquor 
 
 Double proof spirit, 30 quarts, 
 
 Sugar (crystalized), 38 pounds, 
 
 Water, 55 quarts, 
 
 Infusion of vanilla beans, i pint. 
 
 and seal the jars air tightly. 
 
 MEDLARS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Treat exactly as for the "Medlars in Syrup," but after bot- 
 tling, cover with liquor 
 
 Proof spirit, 4 quarts. 
 
 Syrup at 30° 1 " 
 
 5 " 
 and seal air tightly. 
 
 MANDARINES IN BRANDY. 
 
 Take candied mandarines, put in glass jars with double 
 proof alcohol for thirty days, drain, cover with liquor 
 
 Drained alcohol filtered, 2 parts, 
 Sugar syrup at 32°, 1 " 
 
 3 " 
 and seal air tightly. 
 
 LIMES IN BRANDY. 
 Treat same as the "Limes in Syrup," but cover with liquor. 
 
 Proof spirit 4 parts. 
 
 Syrup at 30° 1 " 
 
 5 
 
65 
 
 SYRUPS. 
 SUGAR SYRUP— PREPARATION— CLAKIFICATIOX. 
 
 Plain S3 rup is merely a solution of sugar or glucose in boil- 
 in water made strong enough so as not to ferment. In winter time 
 2S" syrup will keep all right, in summer it requires 30°, but to 
 be on the safe side it should be made at 32° Beaume. 
 
 To quickly make 25° syrup take 
 
 Sugar 2 lbs. 
 
 Water 2 quarts 
 
 boil five minutes. 
 For 31° to 32° syrup, melt on slow fire 
 
 Sugar 17 lbs. 
 
 Water 6 quarts 
 
 bring to boil and skim. 
 
 Even the best refined sugar does not give bright, clear syrup^. 
 it must be clarified. The operation requires no special tools or 
 machinery. To prepare a batch of syrup, dissolve 110 pounds 
 of sugar in five gallons of water, add to it three quarts of al- 
 bumen water, bring to boil stirring continually. As soon as the 
 foam forms and rises in the kettle, add one more quart of al- 
 bumen water. Keep on the fire and when it rises again pour 
 in another quart of the water, then give a good boiling for a 
 few minutes, stirring all the time. 
 
 As soon as the fire is lowered the foam will settle. It has 
 then a gray, dirty appearance; it contains all the dust and im- 
 purities which were in the sugar. Remove it with the skimmer, 
 the syrup is then clear. The boiling should be resumed to bring 
 it to the desired degree of strength. 
 
 The addition of two drachms of acetic acid will improve the 
 syrup in case it has an oily appearance due to a viscous or 
 slimy fermentation caused by the growth of the bacilli viscosi. 
 When still brighter syrup is required, after the clarifying with 
 albumen water, it should be filtered. For this take a two-gallon, 
 heavy, white flannel filter. After it is washed in hot boilings 
 
()G 
 
 wilier, iay it in a Avhite osier cone having same shape as the 
 filter and resting itself in a copper cone with a faucet at the bot- 
 tom. Crush three sheets of gray, French 
 filtering paper.; when reduced in paste, 
 wash it in a few quarts of hot water, 
 then dissolve in two gallons of the hot 
 boiling syrup. Pour in the filter, leave 
 two minutes to settle, then open the 
 faucet. The first few quarts which will 
 not run through clear, w^ill be poured 
 back into the filter. While this filter 
 is ready, jou can use it for filtering as 
 many gallons of sugar as you may desire 
 without further preparation or addition 
 of paper. 
 
 This enclosed copper filter with a fau- 
 cet is the only practical way. It retains 
 a coat of steam around the filter which facilitates greatly the 
 work. The osier basket or chemise is to prevent the flannel from 
 resting against the copper filter or cone as this would prevent 
 the liquid from passing through the flannel and consequently to 
 filter. 
 
 ALBUMEN WATER. 
 
 The albumen water is prepared as follows : Take the white 
 £ind the shells of ten eggs, add one quart of water and beat well 
 with a Avillow sticks broom, same as sold by all the bottlers' sup- 
 plying houses; add slowly more water until making a total of 
 ten quarts (one quart v/ater per egg), add 1-6 ounce of salicylic 
 acid to prevent from spoiling and the albumen will keep several 
 days. 
 
 SAVING THE SUGAR WASTE, FOAM, ETC. 
 
 All the sugar waste, the foam, etc., is accumulated in a 
 bucket which is in the laboratory for that purpose. Dissolve 
 its contents in about four times its volume of water, stir, boil 
 and skim. You will this way save quite a number of pounds of 
 sugar. The second skimming you obtain will be of no use. 
 
KEEP1^'G STOCK OF SYRUP. 
 
 If to be kept in stock the 32° syrup, whether pure sugar, 
 glucose or mixed, should be stored in tinned copper tanks which 
 must be absolutely dry. Place only the cover on when the syrup 
 is entirely cooled off. 
 
 PLAIN AND FEiniENTED FRUIT JUICES. 
 
 Fruit juices are of two kinds. 
 
 1. Plain and preserved, which are used for jellies. 
 
 2. Alcoholic or fermented juices, used for syrups. 
 
 If you boil an unfermented juice with sugar and water you 
 will obtain a jelly. To the contrary, if the juice has been fer- 
 mented, you will obtain a fruit syrup. However, fruit syrups 
 are oft^n made by mixing sugar syrup with the fruit juice, but 
 in this case as you cannot boil it to insure its keeping, you must 
 add to it at least one ounce of salicylic acid to each six quarts of 
 syrup to prevent the fermentation. This syrup will have little 
 flavor as the proportion of antiseptic is very large; it practically 
 kills the flavor of the fruit. However this method is often used. 
 
 The juices which corrode the metal should be kept in gallon 
 stone jars, the others in double gallons of heavy tinplate. These 
 gallons can be used time and time again, if made of lacquered 
 tinplate on the inside, but when emptied they should be well 
 washed and dried. They should also be coated with metallic 
 paint outside (red lead). 
 
 APPLE JUICE. 
 
 1° white juice for blonde and light color jellies. 
 
 Peel the apples, boil two parts apples and one part water, 
 when well melted throw in a large heavy canvas enclosed in a 
 white osier frame or basket. Allow all the clear white juice to 
 drain. Put the juice back in the kettle, bring to boil and pour 
 hot in gallon stone jars which are first rinsed with hot boiling 
 v-ater. Seal with corks which have been soaked ten minutes in 
 boiling water. Keep the jars laying flat in a cool, dark place. 
 
 If you have no objection to salicylic acid, add one ounce per 
 six gallons of juice. 
 
6S 
 
 If you desire to keep in double gallon cans, fill the tins hot, 
 seal and process at 240° for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Pass the apples remaining in the basket through a metallic 
 sieve to separate the core and seeds. It will be of clear color 
 and used later for apple butter. Can in gallons or double 
 gallons. Process: 
 
 Gallons, 30 minutes in boiling water; 
 
 Or, 10 " at 240 Fahrenheit. 
 
 Double gallons, 50 minutes in boiling water; 
 Or, 15 " at 240 Fahrenheit. 
 
 2° Ordinary Apple Juice. 
 
 For ordinary apple juice, melt one part of apples and one 
 part of water, add to it the peels and cores you may have and 
 boil thoroughly, stirring with a large, wooden spatula or spoon. 
 Drain in the willow basket as described above. Preserve in the 
 same way the juice and the pulp. 
 
 The juice obtained will be tinted pink and is to be used for 
 red jellies. The pulp will not be of clear color but slightly 
 brown; it will be used for red jams. 
 
 QUINCE JUICE, FERMENTED AND PLAIN. 
 
 The quince juice for clear jellies is prepared by boiling 
 peeled and cored quinces in water. When the quince is quite 
 soft, drain the juice and treat same as apple juice. The quarters 
 are canned, covered with 28° syrup and processed. 
 
 Gallons, 15 minutes at 240 Fahrenheit. 
 
 Double gallons, 23 " at 240 Fahrenheit. 
 
 They will absorb the sugar and later be used for jams and 
 preserves. 
 
 The ordinary juice is made by boiling cut up second grade 
 quinces; add the peels you may have and treat as for apples. 
 The pulp you will use for jams. 
 
 The fermented juice is made by grating the quince (the pits 
 must be separated). Press the juice in the press, allow to fer- 
 ment for three or four days and clarify hot by albumen process, 
 (same as for clarifying sugar syrup). Bottle hot in stone jars 
 same as api)le juice. 
 
(il) 
 
 PEAK JUICE. 
 
 Pears are treated same as the quinces. 
 
 CHEKRY, RASPBERRY, STRAWBERRY, RED CUR- 
 RANT, BLACK CURRANT, BLACKBERRY, 
 HUCKLEBERRY JUICE. 
 
 Juice of cherries, raspberries, strawberries, red-currants, 
 are made as follows: 
 
 Melt the fruits on the fire with one third water, boil "and 
 stir. Extract the juice by hydraulic press, reboil and put in 
 stone jars same as apple juice. For the fermented juice, leave 
 it tAventy-four hours to ferment in the cellar or basement, clar- 
 ify by hot albumen process and put up same as fermented quince 
 juice. 
 
 LEMON AND ORANGE JUICE. 
 
 Lemon and orange juices are always fermented. Take the 
 pulp of the fruits, cut it up, mix with chopped rye straw and 
 press. Ferment the juice six days in the cellar, clarify hot and 
 bottle in stone jars. 
 
 To clarify the juices, place them in the kettle, heat to about 
 190' Fahrenheit, add 2 per cent, of albumen water (see clar- 
 ification of the sugar SA^rup), stir well, bring to boil, skim and 
 bottle the juice same as described for apple juice. 
 
 ALCOHOLIC FRUIT JUICES. 
 
 Alcoholic juices are made by adding 12 per cent, of double 
 proof spirit to fresh pressed fruit juice, mix well, filter through 
 the flannel and bottle. No boiling is required. 
 
 FRUIT SYRUPS. 
 
 FRUIT SYRUPS BY THE JUICES. 
 
 Fruit syrups prepared with the juices are all prepared in 
 the same manner. We will give the cherry syrup as an ex- 
 ample. Always bottle warm, seal onlv when cold with 
 
70 
 
 Phoenix Caps or best grade of corks dipped in double proof 
 spirit. The inside of the bottles must be perfectly dry. 
 Prepare as follows: 
 
 One part (weight) juice (plain or fermented) 
 One " " sugar 
 
 Boil at 30° Beaume. Clarify by albumen process. 
 Same preparation for syrups of cherries, peaches, apricots, 
 strawberries, red currants, blackberries and huckleberries. 
 
 SYRUPS OF FRESH FRUIT. 
 
 FRESH STRAWBERRY SYRUP. 
 
 Crush and bring to boil, then strain. 
 
 Strawberry 3 parts 
 
 Sugar 6 " 
 
 Water 2 " 
 
 SYRUP OF QUINCE. 
 
 Fermented juice 10 parts 
 
 Sugar 17 " 
 
 Boil, filter and reboil to mark 36° Beaume 
 
 GENUINE GRAPE SYRUP. 
 
 Press fresh grapes, leave the juice in contact for one hour 
 with pieces of marmor or natural chook. Filter and boil until 
 31° Beaume is reached. 
 
 FANCY SYRUPS. 
 KIRSCHENWASSER PUNCH SYRUP. 
 
 Sugar 11 lbs. 
 
 Kirschenwasser 5 quarts 
 
 Double proof spirit 3 1-2 quarts 
 
 Lemon spirit 1 quart 
 
 Citric acid 1-4 ounce 
 
71 
 
 Dissolve first the sugar in water making syrup of 32° 
 Beaume, stop boiling and add the spirit, kirschenwasser, lemon 
 and acid. 
 
 COGNAC SYRUP. 
 
 Sugar 550 parts 
 
 Brandy 300 " 
 
 Lemon spirit 1 part 
 
 Citric acid 1-2 " 
 
 Dissolve the sugar in weak tea making a syrup of 32° 
 Beaume, then add the brandy, lemon and citric acid. 
 
 JAMAICA RUM SYRUP. 
 
 Sugar 500 parts 
 
 Rum 200 " 
 
 Double proof spirit 100 " 
 Lemon spirit 1-1 " 
 
 Orange " 1-4 " 
 
 Citric acid 1-2" 
 
 Prepare by dissolving the sugar in weak tea and prepare 
 same as cognac syrup. 
 
 MARSHMALLOW SYRUP. 
 
 Crush white marshmallow roots into small pieces and boil 
 three quarters of an hour in water. Dissolve your sugar in this 
 water and boil to 30^ Beaume. The syrup will be cloudy. Filter 
 hot through the flannel, filter with crushed filter paper same as 
 described for clarification of sugar syrup. 
 
 GENUINE VIOLETTE SYRUP. 
 
 Wash the flowers, leave them in water for two hours and 
 cook them in the same water in a tinned copper 
 bain marie for twelve hours. Squeeze in a hand press, add 
 sugar to the liquid until it reaches 32° Beaume and filter hot 
 same as marshmallow syrup. 
 
72 
 
 This syrup will have a light purple blue color; a few drops 
 of ammonia will make it turn green. The artificial colored 
 45yrups or imitations will not turn green by the addition of 
 ^immonia; th( y will turn red by the addition of vinegar, the 
 genuine will not. 
 
 ROSE SYRUP. 
 
 Rose water 1 quart 
 
 Water 2 " 
 
 Dissolve the sugar in cold rose water, place on slow fire add- 
 ing pure sugar until 30° Beaume is reached, color light pink and 
 filter. 
 
 ORANGE FLOWER SYRUP. 
 
 The orange flower syrup is prepared in the same manner 
 :as rose syrup, but using orange flower water. 
 
 FRUIT SYRUPS BY THE FRUIT EXTRACTS. 
 
 The progressive manufacturer should prepare his juices in 
 "ihe form of extracts and all that woidd be required for him is 
 io'keep a stock of plain sugar syrup at 30° Beaume. He could 
 then at any time prepare sjTup of the kind desired by mixing. 
 Cold syrup 50 parts 
 
 Extract 1 " 
 
 The syrup must be bottled in perfectly dry bottles and sealed 
 Tvith corks previously dipped in double proof spirit. The extracts 
 should be prepared as follows: 
 
 EXTRACT FORMULAS. 
 STRAWBERRY SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Strawberry water 2 quarts 
 
 Strawberry spirit '4 '' ■ 
 
 " Alcoholic juice 3 " 
 
 Cochineal extract 1 '' 
 
 Cudbear . 1 " 
 
 Tartaric acid 3 lbs. 
 
 IMix in a glass demijohn and filter a few days later. 
 
73 
 
 KASPBERRY SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Distilled raspberry water 20 quarts 
 
 Alcoholic juice 20 " 
 
 Raspberry spirit 4 " 
 
 Strawberry spirit 3 " 
 
 Cudbear extract 15 " 
 
 Tartaric acid 45 lbs. 
 
 RED CURRANT SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Alcoholic red currant juice 
 Alcoholic sour cherry juice 
 Fermented black currant juice 
 Distilled water of raspberry 
 Distilled spirit of strawberry 
 Tincture of Vanilla 
 Tartaric acid 
 Citric acid 
 Cudbear extract 
 
 BLACK CURRANT SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 55 
 
 quarts 
 
 5 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 40 
 
 lbs. 
 
 10 
 
 u 
 
 35 
 
 quarts 
 
 Alcoholic black currant juice 
 Distilled black currant spirit 
 Raspberry extract (made as above 
 described) 
 
 25 quarts 
 22 " 
 
 2 " 
 
 Strawberry " " 
 Tartaric acid 
 
 2 " 
 9 lbs. 
 
 Cudbear extract 
 
 12 " 
 
 BLACKBERRY SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Alcoholic blackberry juice 25 quarts 
 
 Distilled black currant spirit 2 " 
 
 Distilled raspberry water 2 " 
 
 Distilled strawberry spirit 4 " 
 
 Cudbear extract 18 quarts 
 
74 
 
 PINEAPPLE SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Grate fresh, well-ripened pineapples, pu,t in double gallon 
 cans, adding two-thirds of a pint of water per gallon, seal air- 
 tight and process one hour at 240° Fahrenheit. 
 
 When cold press under hydraulic press and prepare ex- 
 tract. 
 
 Pineapple juice 20 quarts 
 Strawberry spirit 4 " 
 
 Citric acid 4 lbs. 
 
 Tartaric acid 6 " 
 
 Filter and bottle. 
 
 LEMON SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Lemon spirit 20 quarts 
 
 Fermented lemon juice 20 " 
 
 Citric acid 15 lbs. 
 
 ORANGE SYRUP EXTRACT. 
 
 Fermented orange juice 5 quarts 
 
 Orange peel infusion 5 " 
 
 Orange spirit \ 15 " 
 Citric acid 6 lbs. 
 
 Tartaric acid 4 " 
 
 GRENADINE EXTRACT. 
 
 Lemon distilled spirit 1 quart 
 
 Lemon peel infusion 1 " 
 
 Orange distilled spirit 1 " 
 
 Vanilla infusion 1 pint 
 Raspberry extract (made as above 
 
 described) 8 quarts 
 
 Alcoholic black currant juice 1 quart 
 
 Tartaric acid 15 lbs. 
 
 'Cochineal extract 9 quarts 
 
COFFEE EXTRACT. 
 
 Take goodquality of beans, 1-2 Java, 1-4 Mocha, 1-4 Antillas 
 or Mexican beans. Roast your beans in a cast or slieet iron 
 roaster on direct fire, tlie beans should be roasted black; they 
 must be over-roasted. Cool off in open air without addition of 
 water. Grind the beans. 
 
 Put in double gallon cans, cover with hot, boiling water, 
 seal air-tightly and process two hours at 240° Fahrenheit. Open 
 your cans when cold, strain and bottle. 
 
 Roasted coffee beans 12 lbs. 
 
 Water 42 quarts 
 
 ORGEAT (Bitter Almonds) EXTRACT. 
 
 Alcohol (double proof) 22 quarts 
 Benzoin 6 1-2 lbs. 
 
 Bitter almond essence 1-4 lb. 
 
 Orange flower water 7 quarts 
 
 Lemon spirit 1 quart 
 
 Tartaric acid 1 1-4 lb. 
 
 Dissolve first the benzoin in the alcohol, then add the other 
 products. 
 
 All these extracts give the highest grade of syrups, they 
 keep for years, will never spoil, but gain by age. In the formulas 
 will be found the ways and means to prepare the spirits, fruit 
 waters and various products used to prepare them. (See the 
 index.) 
 
 ORIENTAL ROSE SYRUP. 
 
 Fine syrup is also made by adding to plain sugar syrup the 
 necessary quantity of rose essence. This syrup is much used in 
 the Orient, and is one of the finest and most delicate when pre- 
 pared with the genuine rose essence. The imitation is made by 
 substituting geranium essence for rose essence. 
 
7G 
 
 IMITATION VIOLET SYRUP. 
 
 An imitation of violet syrup is made as follows: 
 
 Iris root alcoholic infusion 1 quart 
 
 Cold syrup at 32° Beaume 6 quarts 
 
 Color with aniline purple. 
 
 VANILLA SYRUP. 
 
 Cold 32° sugar syrup 50 parts 
 
 Vanilla bean infusion 1 part 
 
 FRUIT JELLIES. 
 
 Pure sugar jellies are made by merely boiling the juice 
 with sugar, two pounds of sugar per quart of juice, skim and 
 boil until it drops in jelly from the wooden spoon or spatula. 
 
 It is very essential that your jellies be bright and clear, and 
 in order to obtain this the sugar should be first put in the kettle, 
 adding just enough water to dissolve it. Con- 
 stantly skim the foam and boil until the sugar is 
 brittle. The sugar is brittle when, dipping your 
 finger in cold water then in the syrup then 
 quickly in cold water again, it will form a solid 
 °ntu\d-8b'aped?euy coatlug to youF fiuger, being transparent and 
 ^"- brittle. 
 
 At this time add your juice, boil until it will drip in jelly 
 from the spoon, at which time your jelly should mark 32° Beaume. 
 Pure sugar jellies are too sweet for the average taste — 1-2 
 sugar and 1-2 glucose is often preferred by the consumer. 
 
 . The above is the best way to prepare high-grade jellies of 
 the following fruits: Apples, pears,' quinces, strawberries, rasp- 
 berries, blackberries, red currants, black currants, etc. 
 
 However, as the berries only give a soft jelly, it is advisable 
 to use 1-2 or 2-3 berry juice and the balance of apple juice. 
 
 When boiling jellies, they are liable to raise, swell, foam, and 
 flow over the kettle. Always keep a bottle of refined cotton or 
 salad oil handy, a few drops will at once bring the jelly back to 
 its proper level in the kettle. 
 
77 
 
 Oi'imge, lemon and pineapple jellies are prepared in the 
 same way. 
 
 1-2 Orange juice, 
 1-2 Apple " 
 
 or all apple juice flavoring with one per cent, of either orange or 
 lemon distilled spirit, adding 
 
 1-3 lbs. of Citric acid, 
 1-2 " Tartaric acid, 
 
 to each 100 lbs. of jelly. 
 
 When flavoring with the distilled spirit stop boiling before 
 adding it and do not boil afterwards. 
 
 The syrups which have been used for the candying fruits 
 come handy for the jellies, especially for the strawberries, as 
 they are well flavored by the fruits. 
 
 For yellow jellies (quince, orange, lemon and pineapple) 
 white apple juice should be used, the ordinary common juice for 
 the red jellies. (See apple juice.) 
 
 VEGETAL COMPOUND JELLIES. 
 
 A good grade of trade jelly is made in using a certain pro- 
 portion of Japanese gelatine, a purely vegetable product (Ay- 
 Thas-Gelose). 
 
 It is necessary to use two kettles, which I will call No. 1 
 and No. 2. 
 
 Kettle No. 1. Melt on slow fire with necessary quantity of 
 water 
 
 65 lbs. Sugar, 
 135 " Glucose. 
 Boil and skim. 
 
 Kettle No. 2. Dissolve on slow fire 2 3-4 pounds Japanese 
 gelatine which has previously been allowed to soak and swell 
 in cold water for six hours. When dissolved add 45 pounds 
 glucose, boil, skim and mix with contents of kettle No. 1. 
 
 In kettle No. 2, which is now empty, put 45 quarts of juice 
 (apple, quince, currants or berries juice) and bring to boil. 
 
78 
 
 Turn off the steam or take the two kettles off the Are, mix 
 both contents, adding 1 1-2 pounds tartaric acid dissolved in 
 two quarts of hot water. 
 
 This would give 450 pounds of jelly. 
 
 When required the jelly should be colored by addition of 
 
 Cochineal extract for strawberry, 
 
 Cudbear extract for other red jellies. 
 
 Cheaper jelly is made by using glucose only, flavoring 
 
 with smaller quantity of juice and using one ounce of Japanese 
 gelatine for each three quarts of jelly desired, the cost price 
 being not over 2-3 of a cent per pound of jelly which should 
 mark 32° Beaume when ready to put in cans or jars. 
 
 The melted gelatine can be boiled with the sugar. If the 
 Japanese gelatine solution is not clear it should be filtered hot 
 through a flannel filter. 
 
 It must be remembered that this gelatine must never boil 
 in contact with fruit juices or tartaric or citric acid, as it would 
 destroy its properties and not take into jelly any more. Same 
 if you re-melt your jelly after it has cooled off, it will not take 
 solid again unless new gelatine solution is added. 
 
 When put up in tin cans these should be lacquered inside. 
 The cans or glass jars should be sealed air-tightly while hot. 
 If jellies are processed it should be for one hour at 212°, but this 
 always darkens them and often makes them cloudy. 
 
 Jellies made with Japanese gelatine cannot be processed 
 as the acid of the fruit would act on the mucilaginous matter 
 of the gelatine and prevent it from taking into solid jelly again. 
 
 FRUIT JAMS. 
 
 Jams are made with either fresh fruits or fruit pulp. If 
 made from fresh fruit, boil them first with water same as if for 
 making pulp, that is to say with about one quart of water for 
 each twenty pounds of fruit. Dissolve four parts of sugar and 
 boil same as for the jellies and add five parts of fruit and boil 
 until the liquid drops into jelly from the spoon. This will make 
 the highest grade. 
 
Second grade is made as follows: 
 
 Fruit pulp 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Glucose 
 
 100 lbs. 
 30 '' 
 TO " 
 
 Boil, adding to it just before putting in cans or jars 1 1-4 pounds 
 Japanese gelatine dissolved as described for "Jellies." To reduce 
 the cost, pumpkin, carrots, beet pulp, etc., are used in place of 
 higher priced fruits. Ked jams should be colored with cudbear. 
 
 The above described covers the following: Strawberry, 
 raspberry, red and black currant, cherry, plum, apple, blackberry, 
 huckleberry, damson, gooseberry, rhubarb, etc. 
 
 Another process to prepare attractive and fine jams of 
 cherries, strawberries, pears, figs, quinces and pineapple is to 
 prepare these fruits during their respective seasons, same as if 
 they were to be candied, but using ripe or near ripe fruits. 
 
 No bleaching or blanching is required. Throw your fruits 
 in hot syrup at 24° Beaume, boil three minutes and repeat the 
 operation twelve hours later. The third time put your fruits 
 in double gallons, cover with hot, boiling syrup at 32° Beaume, 
 seal and process 35 minutes at 225° Fahrenheit. In the winter 
 use these to make your jams. You will find that the fruits have 
 absorbed the sugar. Apple juice will be used to form the body 
 of this jam, which must be clear to show the whole fruits it 
 contains. 
 
 GRAPE JAM. 
 
 Grape jam is prepared by merely boiling i grapes, whole 
 fruits, with ^ juice of fresh pressed grapes. When it reaches 32* 
 Beaume pour in cans or glasses. No sugar is to be added. 
 
80 
 
 Another process which is used in families and gives a fine 
 jam is this: Boil in water 10 pounds red, common carrots, strain 
 and chop the carrots as tiny as possible. Boil five pounds com- 
 mon cooking pears in as little water as possible. When thor- 
 oughly cooke<l, chop in small pieces, then mix together the 
 
 10 lbs. cooked and chopped carrots. 
 5 lbs. cooked and chopped pears, 
 the water in which the pears have boiled. 
 15 lbs. sugar 
 
 10 " (the juice of 20 lbs. grapes). 
 10 lbs. fresh grapes. 
 
 / ORANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 ^ ENGLISH FORMULA. 
 
 Scald, then peel the oranges and cut the peels in thin slices, 
 like shavings. Cut the oranges in pieces, take out the pits which 
 would give a bitter taste and whatever is left of the white skin ; 
 to each four pounds of this pulp, add six pounds of sugar and 
 one quart of apple juice, add the sliced peels and boil slow^ly 
 for one hour, after which boil hard until the marmalade is thick 
 enough. Pour in cans or jars. 
 
 The bitter oranges are preferred: 
 
 FRENCH FORMULA. 
 
 Prepare same as for English, but boil the sliced peels in 
 water until they are actually boiled. Drain and cover with hot 
 boiling syrup at 20° Beaume. Keep it hot without boiling and 
 put in stone jars over night. Drain, reboil your syrup, adding 
 glucose to make it 26° and pour over the peels allowing to stay 
 three days. Drain, reboil the syrup at same degree and pour 
 hot over the peels. Three days after you can prepare your jam. 
 
 The orange itself has been cut, the pits taken out. Mix 
 the pulp with chopped, clean rj^e straw and squeeze in a strong 
 press, as the juice is hard to extract. The rye straw will be 
 of great assistance. Put your juice in a Kettle, boil five minutes 
 and put in boiling hot stone jugs, just as they are rinsed with 
 boiling water. Cork immediately with corks soaked in boiling 
 water. Lay the jugs flat in a cool place. 
 
81 
 
 To make the marmalade, drain the peels and boil together 
 the syrup, the orange juice taken from the jugs and double 
 quantity of apple juice; after boiling five minutes, filter through 
 a flannel filter. 
 
 Syrup 
 
 10 quarts, 
 
 Orange juice 
 
 5 " 
 
 Apple juice 
 
 15 " 
 
 Sugar 
 
 10 lbs. 
 
 Candied sliced peels 
 
 15 " 
 
 Boil hard until it drops in jelly from the spoon, this gives a 
 clear and transparent marmalade. 
 
 CORDIALS. 
 
 A few of the finest liquors can easily be made by the Con- 
 serve manufacturers having a laboratory. I give herewith some 
 formulas of fruit cordials. 
 
 ORANGE CORDIALS. 
 
 HOLLAND CURACAO. 
 
 Take the rind of 30 oranges 
 
 Cinnamon 1-3 ounce 
 
 Mace (second coat of the nutmeg) 1-6 ounce 
 Alcohol, double proof 7 quarts 
 
 Crystalized sugar 6 lbs. 
 
 Mix and allow to infuse in the spirit for eight days, then distill 
 and add the sugar dissolved in water. 
 
 ORANGE LIQUOR. ^ 
 
 Orange peels 2 lbs. 
 
 Lemon " 1-3 " 
 Cinnamon 3 ounces 
 
 Cayenne pepper 1 ounce 
 
 Double proof spirit 10 quarts 
 
 Allow to infuse for ten days, then distill. Mix with nine 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in water, filter if necessary, color 
 orange yellow. 
 
82 
 
 LEMON CORDIAL. 
 
 Infuse the rind of thirty lemons in ten quarts of double proof 
 spirit for three days, distill to obtain six quarts, add two quarts 
 water to these six quarts and distill to obtain four quarts of fine 
 lemon spirit. Add to these ten pounds of sugar dissolved in 
 two quarts of water, color yellow and filter. 
 
 GERMAN LEMON CORDIAL. 
 Rind of lemons 1-2 lb. 
 
 " " oranges 
 
 1-4 " 
 
 Cloves 
 
 1 ounce 
 
 Mace 
 
 1 " 
 
 Double proof alcohol 
 
 11 quarts 
 
 Water 
 
 1 quart 
 
 Infuse for ten days, strain and add sugar syrup to make 
 twenty quarts, color yellow and filter. 
 
 RASPBERRY CORDIALS. 
 
 CREME DE FRAMBOISE. 
 
 FORMULA No. 1. 
 
 ■ Raspberry spirit, 5 quarts 
 Double proof alcohol, , 3 " 
 Sugar, 10 lbs. 
 Water, 11 quarts 
 
 Color with cudbear. 
 
 FORMULA NO. 2. 
 
 Raspberry juice, 1 quart 
 
 Double proof alcohol, 1 " 
 
 ': Mix and filter, then add 
 
 ' Raspberry water, 1 quart 
 
 ^ Double proof spirit, 2 " 
 
 ■ Water, 5 " 
 Sugar, 6 lbs. 
 
83 
 
 STRAWBERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 Strawberry spirit, 3 quarts 
 
 Strawberry juice, 2 " 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 " 
 
 Filter, then add sugar, ten pounds, and water, seven quarts. 
 Color with cochineal. 
 
 CHERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 French "Guignolet" Liqueur. 
 
 Infusion of black ripe cherries, 4 quarts 
 Double proof spirit, 1 " 
 
 Sugar, lOi lbs. 
 
 \ Water, 3 pints 
 
 BLACK CURRANT CORDIAL. 
 FRENCH "CASSIS." FORMULA NO. 1. 
 
 Ripe black currant, 
 
 7 lbs. 
 
 Black currant leaves, 
 
 1-3 lb. 
 
 Cinnamon, 
 
 1-8 ounce 
 
 Alcohol (proof) 
 
 7 quarts 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 3 lbs. 
 
 Water, 
 
 3 quarts 
 
 Infuse the fruits, leaves and cinnamon in the spirit for three 
 weeks, strain and add the water in which the sugar has been 
 dissolved. 
 
 FORMULA NO. 2. 
 
 Infusion of black currant, 10 quarts 
 Infusion of raspberry, 1 " 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 " 
 
 Sugar, lOi lbs. 
 Water, 3 quarts 
 
8,4 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 FORMULA NO. 1. 
 
 CREME DE MOKA. 
 
 Coffee water, 
 Alcohol (double proof) 
 Sugar, 
 Water, 
 
 10 quarts 
 
 14 " 
 12 lbs. 
 
 15 quarts 
 
 Color with burnt sugar. 
 
 FORMULA NO. 2. 
 
 Coffee spirit. 
 
 10 quarts 
 
 Double proof spirit. 
 
 2 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 42 lbs. 
 
 I enough water to make 40 quarts of cordial, 
 
 FORMULA NO. 3. 
 
 
 Extract of coffee (see syrup 
 
 
 extracts) 
 
 1 quart 
 
 Double proof spirit 
 
 4 quarts 
 
 Water 
 
 1 quart 
 
 32° syrup 
 
 2 quarts 
 
 QUINCE CORDIAL. 
 
 
 Fresh quince juice 
 
 15 quarts 
 
 Cloves spirit 
 
 1 pint 
 
 Alcohol (double proof) 
 
 30 quarts 
 
 Sugar 
 
 60 lbs. 
 
 W^ater 
 
 25 quarts 
 
 PINEAPPLE LIQUOR. 
 
 Grate one two-pound apple and cover with four quarts 
 double proof spirit. Two weeks later, strain, filter and add ten 
 pounds of sugar dissolved in four quarts of water and flavor 
 with a little vanilla infusion. 
 
S5 
 
 BLACKBERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Blackberries 
 Double proof spirit 
 
 7 pounds 
 3 quarts 
 
 After ten weeks, strain, filter, mix with one quart double-proof 
 spirit in which have infused one-half ounce cloves, one-quarter 
 grated nutmeg, one-half ounce cinnamon, filter and add water 
 one quart, sugar one-half pound. 
 
 BLACKBERRY LIQUOR. 
 
 Blackberries 
 Double proof spirit 
 Sugar 
 Water 
 
 lbs. 
 quarts 
 lbs. 
 quarts 
 
 CELERY CORDIAL. 
 
 Celery spirit 
 
 Alcohol (double proof) 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Water 
 
 4 quarts 
 2 " 
 17 lbs. 
 8 quarts 
 
 NOYAU. 
 
 Kirschenwasser. Put all the stones and pits of your cher- 
 rieS; peaches, plums, etc., in a barrel, cover with proof spirit 
 and distill after infusion. Rectify. 
 
 To make "Creme de Noyau," add two parts with one part of 
 sugar syrup at 32° Beaume. 
 
 MARASCHINO CORDIAL. 
 
 Noyau, 2 parts. 
 
 Orange flower water, i pint 
 
 Raspberry spirit or water i " 
 
 Sugar, 24 lbs. 
 
 Water, 3^ 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 pint 
 
86 
 
 ORANGE FLOWER. 
 Creme de Fleur d'Oranger. Formula No. 1. 
 
 Orange flower water, 
 
 4 quarts 
 
 Double proof spirit, 
 
 20 " 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 20 lbs. 
 
 Water, 
 
 9 quarts 
 
 FORMULA NO. 2. 
 
 for 55 quarts cordial. 
 
 Neroli essence, 3-8 oz. 
 
 Orange flower water, 1 quart 
 
 Water, sugar and spirit according to taste. 
 
 ROSE CORDIAL. 
 
 Rose water, 
 
 2 quarts 
 
 Double proof spirit. 
 
 5i " 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 10 lbs. 
 
 Water, 
 
 9 quarts 
 
 Color pink with cochineal. 
 
 VIOLET CORDIAL. 
 
 Iris root infusion, 
 
 10 quarts 
 
 Double proof spirit. 
 
 20 " 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 85 lbs. 
 
 Water, 
 
 45 quarts 
 
 VANILLA. 
 
 
 "Creme de Vanille." 
 
 
 Common grade: 
 
 
 Vanilla infusion. 
 
 1 quart 
 
 Double proof spirit. 
 
 20 quarts 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 20 lbs. 
 
 Water, 
 
 60 quarts 
 
87 
 
 Superior grade: 
 
 Vanilla infusion, 1 quart 
 
 Double proof spirit, 3 quarts 
 
 Sugar, 10 lbs. 
 
 Water, 2 i quarts 
 
 DISTILLED FRUIT WATERS. 
 
 Distilled fruit water is the finest flavoring for cordials, ice 
 cream, confectionery, etc. 
 
 RASPBERRY AND BLACK CURRANT WATER. 
 
 For raspberries and black currant, 
 Distill 50 lbs. fruit 
 
 5 quarts water 
 to obtain sixteen quarts of fruit water. 
 
 APRICOT, PEACH AND STRAWBERRY WATER. 
 
 For peach, apricot and strawberry, 
 
 Distill 50 lbs. fruit 
 
 5 quarts water 
 to obtain twelve quarts of fruit water. 
 
 These extracts will keep for years if carefully bottled and 
 kept in a dark, cool place. 
 
 ROSE WATER. 
 
 Distill 22 lbs. fresh rose leaves 
 15 quarts water 
 f lb. salt 
 to obtain five to seven quarts of rose water. 
 
 ORANGE FLOWER WATER. 
 
 Orange flowers, 10 lbs. 
 
 Water, 40 quarts 
 
 Salt, 1 lb. 
 
 Distill to obtain ten quarts of orange flower water. Should it 
 
 turn cloudy add some more magnesia and filter. 
 
88 
 
 FRUIT SPIRITS. 
 RASPBERRY SPIRITS. 
 
 Raspberry, 
 
 20 lbs. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 
 
 12 quarts 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 '' 
 
 Distill to obtain ten quarts spirit. 
 
 STRAWBERRY SPIRIT. 
 Same as raspberry. 
 
 ORANGE AND LEMON SPIRIT. >^ 
 
 Distill rind of 100 oranges 
 
 Double proof alcohol 15 quarts 
 
 Water 5 " 
 
 to obtain thirteen quarts of spirit. 
 
 COFFEE SPIRIT. 
 
 Distill six pounds of roasted and ground coffee with twenty 
 quarts of double proof spirit and ten quarts water, the coffee must 
 have infused a few days in the spirit. Distill to obtain nineteen 
 quarts of coffee spirit. 
 
 NOYAU SPIRIT. 
 
 Noyau spirit, and peach, and apricot stone spirit is made by 
 covering the broken stones with double proof spirit, three weeks 
 later, distill two parts infusion spirit and one part water. 
 
 CELERY SPIRIT. 
 
 Celery seeds. 
 
 2i lbs. 
 
 Alcohol (double proof). 
 
 10 quarts 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 " 
 
 Distill to obtain 9 i quarts celery spirit. 
 
89 
 CORIANDER SPIRIT. 
 
 Coriander seeds, 
 
 3 lbs. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 
 
 10 quarts 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 ^' 
 
 Distill to obtain ten quarts. 
 
 CLOVES SPIRIT. 
 
 Broken cloves, 
 
 6 lbs. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 
 
 50 quarts 
 
 Water, 
 
 23 " 
 
 Distill to obtain 48 quarts of spirit. 
 
 CHINESE CINNAMON. 
 
 Powdered cinnamon, 1 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 7 quarts 
 
 After 48 hours infusion add 3 I quarts water. Distill to 
 obtain seven quarts. 
 
 CEYLON CINNAMON. 
 
 Powdered cinnamon, 2 lbs. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 30 quarts 
 
 After 48 hours add water, 15 " 
 
 Distill to obtain 29 quarts of spirit. 
 
 VANILLA INFUSION. 
 
 Crushed vanilla beans, 1-3 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 6 quarts 
 
 After six weeks strain and filter. 
 
90 
 
 CHINESE CINNAMON. 
 
 Powdered Chinese Cinnamon, 1 1-2 lbs. 
 Double proof spirit, 1 quart 
 
 CEYLON CINNAMON. 
 
 Powdered cinnamon, 1 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 quart 
 
 CLOVES INFUSION. 
 
 Powdered cloves, 1 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 4 quarts 
 
 IRIS ROOT INFUSION. 
 
 Powdered iris root, 1-2 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 quart 
 
 Filter after two weeks. 
 
 MANDARINE, ORANGE AND LEMON INFUSIONS. 
 
 Rind, 1 lb. 
 
 Double proof spirit, 1 quart 
 
 Drain and filter one month later. 
 
 ALCOHOLIC INFUSIONS OF FRUITS. 
 
 Strawberries, raspberries, black currant and cherries. Crush 
 the fruits, and for each two pounds add one quart of double 
 proof spirit, and after six weeks drain and filter. 
 
 CUDBEAR EXTRACT. 
 
 Cudbear is a fine claret red color which is perfectly harmless. 
 Mix half pound of powdered cudbear with one quart of double 
 proof spirit, after one week filter. It is the most powerful vege- 
 table color, its cost being only the alcohol, as the cudbear is only 
 worth a few cents per pound. 
 
yl 
 
 COCHINEAL EXTRACT. 
 
 Powdered black cochineal, 1 pound 
 
 Alum, 1-4 " 
 
 Cream of tartar, 1-4 " 
 
 Water, 8 quarts 
 
 First boil your water and add the cochineal, after five min- 
 utes add the cream of tartar and alum. When dissolved, allow 
 to cool off. One-quarter ounce of tartaric acid will make it 
 brighter red and the addition of one part alcohol to two parts 
 preparation will insure its good keeping qualities. 
 
 FRUIT PASTE. 
 
 The fruit paste is more in the line of the confectioner, how- 
 ever, as they do not require any special tools or machinery and 
 apply to the same trade as glace fruits, I will give here their 
 preparation. 
 
 Take fine white apples, peel, core and slice, throwing the 
 pieces in water containing one ounce sulphite of soda per five 
 gallons of water, this will keep them white. 
 
 Place the slices in a kettle with two quarts of water for 
 each thirty pounds of apples and boil, stirring continuously until 
 the apples are cooked and melted. 
 
 Pass the juice and pulp through a very fine hair sieve with 
 an equal quantity of pulp of the fruit desired to make the paste 
 of raspberry, strawberry, peach, apricot, quince and greengage. 
 
 Mix equal weights of the mixed pulp and cooked sugar pre- 
 pared as follow^s: 
 
 Boil sugar and water until, when dipping the finger in cold 
 water, then in the syrup and in cold water again, the sugar will 
 still adhere to the finger, forming a little ball, then the required 
 strength is reached. 
 
 Boil a little while on strong fire, color with aniline, then pour 
 on tin plate sheets in layers of 1-4 to 1-3 inches in thickness. 
 Allow to dry one day in the hot room used to dry the candied 
 fruits. 
 
 The paste is then cut in disks, stars or other shapes; place in 
 the crystalizaton boxes and crystalize same as the crystalized 
 fruits. 
 
92 
 
 BACTERIOLOGY iPPLlED TO CANNING. 
 
 Undoubtedly the study of the formation, growth and life of 
 the bacillis has been a great help to the modern preserver; how- 
 ever these dreadful microbes are not so terrible as generally 
 represented. Their study is one of the most fascinating, but this 
 is no reason why we should only see and dream microbes, and 
 most of the treatises on the subject seem to have been made with 
 a view to deprive the canner of the few hours' sleep he is entitled 
 to after his hard labor. 
 
 Each fruit by itself is a living being, the life of which is 
 destroyed at the temperature of 180 Fahrenheit. Should the heat 
 not have reached the necessary temperature, or should it not have 
 penetrated the whole fruit, the parts which remained alive will 
 ripen further and the chemical reaction therefrom will reduce the 
 sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid, thus creating a condition 
 often favorable to the growth of bacteria, which in the original 
 condition would have remained in the state of spores and not have 
 developed. 
 
 Hence the necessity that each molecule contained in the 
 receptacle which is Pasteurized should be actually heated at 180 
 degrees. This temperature will destroy the life of all the actual 
 living bacteria and should the Pasteurized product not undergo 
 any changes, these pores will remain in their state of latent life. 
 In a culture media offering the most favorable conditions for the 
 development of the spores, they would sprout, but all the products 
 we consider in the canning industry have enough antiseptic 
 strength in them to constitute a combined condition utterly un- 
 favorable to their passage from latent to active life. The agents 
 referred to are the natural products, such as acids, uncrystalizablo 
 sugar, etc., contained in the fruits as well as the salt and sugar 
 which are contained in the dipping liquid or brine. 
 
 The bacteria germs in their dry or latent state of life are every- 
 where; the air and the water being their vehicle, every particle 
 of air being actually all alive and containing germs of various 
 kinds ready to sprout the instant they find a field favorable to 
 
93 
 
 their development. Their nature is more of a vegetal than 
 animal determination if we can call such this lower form of 
 livings; they can not be compared better than to a mushroom, 
 and there are many varieties of bacteria as there are varieties 
 of mushrooms; their, work is the same, the disintegration. 
 
 This disintegration, of course, is not made without a chemical 
 change in the nature of the decomposed product; it practically 
 splits the product into fractions of lower or simpler chemicals; 
 in other words it tends to reduce the vegetable or animal 
 matter into the elementary forms. It is not powerful enough to 
 set free the molecules, to set on one side the carbon, on anothei' 
 the hydrogen and on a third the oxygen, but it splits the work; 
 does it by fractions. 
 
 Take, for example, a batch of fruit juice; a powerful micro- 
 scope will show the presence of nearly every family of the known 
 microbes, but its present state is not favorable to the develop- 
 ment of all of them. First on the surface, which is in contact 
 with air, the great bacteria carrier, the fermentation will take 
 place and the mold will appear. This mold is a mold fungus of 
 which there are many varieties, but with about the same char- 
 acteristics. They require oxygen for their growth and will 
 develop so much quicker the nearer they are on the surface, 
 where they can draw all the oxygen they require from the air. 
 
 These molds constitute a coating keeping the germs in the 
 inside of the liquid from contact with the air, and these other air- 
 requiring microbes will not be able to develop. But this ana- 
 erobic condition (anerobic-privation of air) is the most favorable 
 for the germination and development of other bacteria. 
 
 In the same time as the mold another germ, the bacillis 
 lactici acidi, has germinated in contact with the air decomposing 
 the sugar into C6H1206 (sugar), 2C3H603 (lactic acid). 
 
 The absence of air and the presence of lactic acid being most 
 favorable to the growth of the Butyric acid bacteria, it will germ 
 and prosper, attacking directly the sugar as well as the lactic 
 acid and all organic matters, reducing them into Butyric acid, 
 hydrogen, ammonia, etc. 
 
 But if instead of leaving the mold fungus grow in an easy 
 way on the surface of the liquid, taking from the air all the 
 
94 
 
 oxygen it desires, if the mold is submerged, pressed down into 
 the liquid, from an aerobic it will be forced into an anaerobic 
 state, it will violently attack the sugar, disaggregating it 
 into alcohol and carbonic acid which will be set free. When all 
 the sugar will be decomposed, split into these two new products, 
 alcohol which remains and the carbonic acid which has escaped; 
 the nature of the fruit juice is changed, no sugar is left, and thQ 
 mold fungus, yeast fungi not being able to disintegrate the 
 alcohol formed, will in fact die from lack of food. 
 
 C6H1206 (sugar)=2C2H60 (alcohol)-h2C02 (carbonic acid). 
 But the new liquid fulfills all the requirements for the 
 development of other bacilli; the butyric acid bacilli will sprout 
 and decompose further. 
 
 PTOMAINES. 
 
 The same bacteria produces various chemical reactions ac- 
 cording to the conditions under v/hich it attacks the organic 
 matter, and especially when forced into a state in which it cannot 
 obtain its supply of oxygen as it would in the natural way; the 
 reactions that take place are liable to produce alkaloids which 
 are poisonous. By their nature they are similar to the nicotine, 
 morphine, etc. ; therefore in a tin can or glass jar airtightly sealed 
 where the supply of air (oxygen) is limited, if the processing 
 has not been sufficient to force the heat through the whole con- 
 tents, the aerobic microbes will resume their work, but soon, by 
 the lack of oxygen, they will be forced into an anaerobic state; 
 they will draw the oxygen from the organic matter, forming acids 
 which by their reaction on alkaline substance will produce alka- 
 loids deadly to man. 
 
 The ptomaines, name under which these alkaloids are desig- 
 nated, are especially the product of the disease bacteria which 
 are found in the air, the water, in the milk, meat, fishes, and 
 especially all products of albuminous nature. These pathogenic 
 bacteria are seldom met in vegetables wher*^ the principal 
 enemies we have to fight with are the mold fungus, the lactic and 
 butyric acid bacteria. 
 
 The yeast fungi, the aspergillus glaucus so common ir damp 
 places, are quite easily destroyed by heat. The sugar,^he acid of 
 
95 
 
 the fruits or salt brine added to the vegetables readily prevent the 
 growth of the various micoderraa, M. vini, M. aceti, etc., to which 
 we will add the Mucor Kacemosus and the Pencillium glaucus. 
 
 If a mold has formed and developed at the time the goods are 
 packed, the mold will be j)reserved same as the fruit; but if the 
 putrifaction agents such as the bacillus butyricus or the bacillus 
 amyglobacter have started their work of decomposition, the part 
 they have spoiled will remain so ; they grow without air, and the 
 confinement in a sealed receptac'e will greatly favor their 
 growth. The bacillus prodigiosus and me bacillus lacti acidi, 
 if they have germinated, will grow anaerobic in the cans and 
 spoil the contents. 
 
 Should it be possible to take a fruit out of a lot, examine it 
 to ascertain what kind of germs of spores are on it, and refer to an 
 index to find out how^ long processing would destroy them, it 
 would be very convenient, but practically hundreds of varieties 
 are represented on each fruit; they require various conditions 
 to develop and they are watching the various phases of the de- 
 composition to sprout and prosper each at their turn and com- 
 plete the work of disintegration decompose the matter they 
 attack into its elementary forms. For this reason a long list of 
 bacteria, their shape, their color, the temperature at which 
 the adults are killed by the heat, the temperature required to 
 destroy their spores, etc., is of no use and no help to the conserve 
 manufacturer, but it is a very interesting and fascinating study, 
 and if you have time to spare I could but recommend it. How- 
 ever, do not expect to draw wonders from it; the brutal fact will 
 remain that the length of processing will be left to your judg- 
 ment, and basis on which to establish your judgment will be not 
 the possibility that a specimen of such or such kind of micro- 
 organism may have found its way in this can or the other, and 
 start w ith it a game of hide and seek in which gray hair is all you 
 would gain. Neither will it be that you should process your 
 peaches one hour at 250 Fahrenheit, because you will find out 
 that all the peaches have germs of the bacillis butyricus and that 
 this temperature is required to destroy them. No; you will 
 merely take into consideration the ripeness and the size of the 
 fruity, the thickness of the syrup or brine, the size of the can or 
 jar and by comparison deduct the length of time required for the 
 
9G 
 
 heat to penetrate the very heart of the contents. Use closed 
 retorts and high temperature when saving time is required. 
 
 ACTION OP THE BRINE ON BACILLUS. 
 
 To obtain sound goods the cans or jars must be sealed per- 
 fectly air tight and processed for the proper length of time. It 
 is very important that the fruits, vegetables or meat be perfectly 
 sound and in as proper condition as if they were to be eaten raw. 
 All fermentation or spoiling must be avoided before the products 
 are canned, and as soon as the sealing is made the cans or jars 
 must be processed, for the reason that the majority of the germs 
 develop most favorably in a temperature of 20° to 35° Centigrade 
 (67° to 96° Fahrenheit) which is commonly attained in the pack- 
 ing room and the bacteria would promptly set to work. It is 
 for some goods recommended to dip with hot syrup or brine; the 
 object of such recommendation was originally to help to des- 
 troy the ferments contained in the fruits or vegetables, but I 
 consider that it has no other meaning than a recommendation 
 to only employ a syrup or brine which is not in a state of fermen- 
 tation and is not contaminated. If your syrup is light and one 
 or two days old, it is most likely that some bacteria have 
 sprouted, dipping with this syrup would be to introduce the 
 enejny in your fortress, the advice of brining hot will oblige 
 you to boil this syrup and destroy the growth. 
 
 ANTISEPTIC POWER OF SALT BRINE. 
 
 The same applies to the salt brine. This brine used to dip 
 the vegetables marks 2° to 3° Beaume; the percentage of salt it 
 contains has sufficient antiseptic strength to prevent the ger- 
 mination of the spores when the adults have been killed by the 
 heat, but it has not sufficient power to prevent the adult to work 
 if they exist in the solution. Therefore should this brine be made 
 with cold water, it would contain all the ferments actually 
 developed in the water and when poured in the cans these fer- 
 ments will attack the eatables and may produce partial decom- 
 position before the pasteurization is completed by the processing. 
 
 Tlie brine may not only convey molds and common decom- 
 position bacteria, but also germs and adult pathogenic bacteria 
 
97 
 
 (Disease Microbes) and the boiling of the brine is a good pre- 
 cautionary measure. 
 
 When syrup or brine, after boiling, is placed in a tank, it 
 must not be closed with a cover as long as it is hot as the steam 
 and vapor rising from the liquid would condense against the 
 cover driving with them the spores contained in the air, and the 
 temperature of these waterdrops, being most favorable to the 
 germination of the germs, they would in very short time sprout 
 and reach adult state; these drops falling from the cover into 
 the brine in the tank will convey with them the adult bacteria 
 and soon the whole tank would be in a state of fermentation. 
 
 Salt brine containing sugar as used for some vegetables will 
 be more subject to prompt decomposition and greater care will 
 have to be taken and when possible saccharin should be substi- 
 tuted for sugar as saccharin is in itself an antiseptic. 
 
 AIR TIGHT SEALING OF CANS AND GLASS JARS. 
 
 The necessity of air-tightly sealing the packages is clearly 
 shown. For tin cans no difficulty has ever existed, the mixture 
 of lead and tin being the natural device to secure the sealing of 
 the cover to the body of the can. The difficulty of obtaining an 
 air tight closure of the glass jars has for years past been one of 
 the greatest drawbacks to their use. Every man conected with 
 the canning or preserving industry in some way has undoubtedly 
 spent many hours, if not money, trying to reach the ideal, until a 
 few years ago when the Phoenix Caps were placed on the market. 
 They have been from the start adopted by the most progressive 
 houses in the country. R. C. Hickmott, Bishop on the Pacific 
 Coast, Reid, Murdoch in Chicago, Dunbar in New Orleans, H. J. 
 Heinz, of Pittsburgh, E. C. Hazard in New York and Philip J. 
 Ritter in Philadelphia, being among the champions of the pack* 
 ing in glass. 
 
 The requirements of a glass package are first the air tight 
 sealing which has first been obtained by sealing the jars with 
 corks and tying them with wire so as to prevent their being 
 blown out by the inside pressure while processing. However, 
 during the boiling some air and steam from the inside of the jar 
 forces their way out and while cooling off produces a vacuum, 
 
98 
 
 and owing to the porous nature of the cork, the air from the out- 
 side, not pasteurized, is sucked through the porosity of the cork, 
 gets into the jar causing its contents to be attacked by the germs 
 contained in the said air and soon the decomposition takes place. 
 The glass stopper came next and was at a time in universal 
 use. The idea was to maintain the jars containing the fruits 
 or vegetables in boiling water for about 20 minutes, the boiling 
 water bath reaching the neck near the very top of the jar. Then 
 the glass stopper which was coated with a solution of rubber 
 was placed and the jars allowed to cool off. The defects of this 
 system were the nasty appearance of the rubber solution 
 which often ran into the jars, the difl&culty of opening which was 
 done by turning the jar upside down allowing the neck to remain 
 two minutes in hot water so as to melt the rubber and allow 
 the removal of the glass stopper, then the impossibility to process 
 the jars at higher temperature than 212° (boiling water). 
 i The Mason Jar was the next step. The sealing in them being 
 obtained by a rubber ring on which rests and impresses the lower 
 part of the cover with screw-formed flange, and made of zinc. 
 The neck of the jar being also formed in a screw, the sealing 
 ■was obtained by screwing the cover by hand as tightly as possi- 
 hle. The screwing is not tight enough to allow the jars to be 
 processed in closed retorts. Processed in plain boiling water it 
 allows some steam to escape and by the vacuum created in cool- 
 ing it makes the cap so tight as to make its unscrewing impossi- 
 ble, the difference of expansion of the metal and of the glass by 
 action of the heat and the difference of contraction when cooling 
 oft", still increasing the adherence of the cover and making the 
 opening impracticable. Gordon & Dilworth, of New York, in 
 making a glass top held by a cleverly devised spring clamp have 
 greatly contributed to the progress in this line. This improved 
 closure has enabled them to produce a higher grade of products 
 securing the good name and reliability of their brand. 
 
 This closure, however, does not allow to process the jars under 
 pressure in closed retorts, the opening is rendered easier, but the 
 rubber ring is still in contact with the goods. 
 
99 
 
 AIR ENCLOSED IN CANS AND JARS. 
 
 The mistaken idea that the air is responsible for the spoiling 
 of the goods has caused great deception to those who, not fol- 
 lowing the progress of modern science, hoped to secure the 
 keeping of eatables and prevent their decaying by creating a 
 vacuum and relying on atmospheric pressure to seal the jars. 
 The slightest chemical reaction of the enclosed organic products 
 or expansion by the heat, causes the rupture of the vacuum and 
 the breaking of the air tightness of the seal. 
 
 The aim in sealing a jar is as much to prevent its contents 
 escaping as to prevent outside elements penetrating into it. If 
 the closure of the jar is such as to allow part of its contents, 
 air or steam, to escape under the pressure produced by the ex- 
 pansion caused by the heat, by the same reason in cooling off the 
 atmospheric pressure will cause particles of air to penetrate into 
 the jar. Each of these particles, however, small it may be, con- 
 tains germs, ferments, which will cause the fermentation or spoil- 
 ing of the goods. 
 
 PROCESSING AT HIGH TEMPERATURE IN GLASS JARS. 
 
 This important problem has been solved by the Phoenix Cap 
 which seems to realize all the desiderata of the preserver and of 
 the consumer and at last placing the canning in glass on a practi- 
 cal footing. 
 
 At the risk of being accused of advertising a patented article, 
 I will describe the work of this device. Constructed in full 
 knowledge of the laws of physic, it belongs to this work, not only 
 on account of the interesting results reached from a scientific 
 point of view, but for the material benefit of those in search of a 
 much-wanted air tight seal. 
 
 Its constitutive elements are a cover which fits the neck of 
 the jar or bottle and is a perfect lid to it; this cover is enclosed 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
lou 
 
 >N 
 
 ^ 
 
 -At 
 
 CotV, 
 wash.'! 
 
 in a metal band which covers its flange, the top of the ring having 
 itself an inward projecting flange holding the cover. Inside is 
 the washer of compressible material. The principle involved is 
 not only the happy perfect combination of these three items but 
 their application. 
 
 The compressible washer employed is, of course, of such 
 nature as to suit the kind of goods packed; it is either cork, rub- 
 ber or cardboard. 
 
 FRUITS IN GLASS JAKS— SEALING. 
 
 If the goods to be packed are fruits, per example apricots, 
 
 they are placed in the jars, covered with syrup up to one inch 
 
 from the very top and the cap placed over it. The machine 
 
 especially constructed for the 
 purpose will, in two seconds, op- 
 erate the sealing. The first action 
 will comjjress the cap on the jar 
 by the pressure of a 600 pounds 
 spring. This compression squeezes 
 the washer on the top of the jar 
 reducing it to 1-3 of its original 
 thickness, the lower edge of the 
 
 metal ring will therefore reach lower and be below the level of 
 
 the groove under the rim of the jar. At this moment the machine 
 
 resuming its work, flanges this lower 
 
 part of the metal ring under the rim 
 
 of the jar at a right angle. The cap 
 
 is then set, it has a solid grip on 
 
 the neck of the jar and holds it as 
 
 firmly as if it were a precious stone, 
 
 but of quite unusual size. j,,. ^^,1,1, No fco;Jred with cap and 
 
 under pressure. 
 
 Releasing the heavy pressure 
 exerted by the machine will bring 
 no change whatsoever. The set- 
 ting under the rim is solid, it 
 does not give and will hold the 
 compression of the washer a? 
 tightly as if the pressure was still 
 there. 
 
 O 6. 
 
 Jar Finieh No. i covered with cap lined with 
 cork. 
 
 Tta. 8. 
 Jar Finish No. 1 covered with cap showing 
 sealing made while pressure was applied. 
 
101 
 
 rm. 
 
 Fig. 9. Phoenix Jar and Bottle Sealing Machine. 
 
 The jar is then placed in tlie water bath, and processed for 
 the required length of time to insure the keeping of its contents. 
 If the processing is made in closed retorts, under pressure, the 
 work is the same; it also matters not whether it is a water or 
 steam retort. 
 
 When processing under high temperature, the length of the 
 processing is shortened for the mere reason that a heat, say 225° 
 
102 
 
 Fahrenheit, around the jar will, in the same length of time, trans- 
 mit a greater amount of heat to the inside of the vessel than a 
 temperature of 212° (boiling water) would. All we desire is to 
 have this heat reach not less than 180° in the very heart of the 
 fruits contained in the center of the jar. 
 
 In this example the inside of the cover was lined with a cork 
 washer. This lining is the most proper for fruits which are pro- 
 cessed, but owing to the vegetable nature of the cork which is 
 liable to contain mold and also to increase its elasticity and 
 remove the dust, these washers should always be soaked in hot 
 water before being used; they must not be boiled as this would 
 soften them too much and therefore decrease their elasticity. 
 
 The neck of the jar (see fig. (3, 7, 8), has a peculiar shape on 
 the top and it has great importance. The top edge is flat or 
 ground and does not exceed 1-32 in height and leaving the groove 
 all around perfectly smooth. The compression is progressively 
 applied on the jar covered with the cap when sealing. First the 
 top edge forces into the cork washer forcing the cork on the side. 
 The pressure increasing, the washer finds itself squeezed between 
 four walls formed on one part by the cover and its flange, on the 
 other by the smooth surface and the top edge of the jar, it is then, 
 when submitted to the full pressure, that the setting of the cap 
 1b made. 
 
 The cork adheres perfectly to the smooth surface and makes 
 a tiglit joint, if it were ground it would never be air tight, as the 
 cork, whatever pressure may be applied, will never fill all the 
 irregularities caused by the grinding. The assemblage of these 
 irregularities forms like a tissue of little channels, each one 
 acting as a capillary tube causing natural suction and creating a 
 leak. 
 
 The cork washer makes a fine seal. A parchment paper 
 disc of same diameter as the cork washer can be placed in the 
 cap after the washer is in; it will prevent the contact of the 
 liquid in the jar with the cork. 
 
 SEALING ON GROUND SURFACE. 
 
 It is a mistaken idea that a tight sealing can be obtained on 
 a ground surface, and it can be stated that every jar so finished 
 
103 
 
 and not provided with a smooth groove leaks, has leaked or will 
 leak. 
 
 SEALING WITH CAPS WITH RUBBER. 
 The cork being nothing else but the bark of a certain variety 
 of oak there is a limit to the diameter of the washer that can 
 practically be cut out of it. When the diameter reaches three 
 inches, rubber rings are used as lining of the covers. These rings 
 are of such width as to rest in the groove on the top of the jar 
 
 and when the sealing is 
 made this ring is practically 
 encased between the bottom of 
 the cover and its flange on one 
 part and the groove on the 
 other. The acid of the fruit at- 
 tacks the rubber, and in order 
 
 
 JarFinishNo. 4 sealed with cap, lined with iLbler +q DrCVeUt the COUtaCt a pUrC 
 
 and pure tin foil. ^ ■*• 
 
 tin foil disc is first placed on the jar and then the cap. This tin 
 foil disc is of same diameter as the inside of the cover. 
 
 However, some very acid red fruits attack the tinfoil, this 
 having a tendency to make them turn purple. This is avoided 
 by using a parchment paper disc instead of tin, but it is still 
 preferable to use both the parchment covering the jar. 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF PROCESSING FOR JARS. 
 
 To process, and in order to avoid breakage^ the jars should 
 not be placed in hot boiling water, but warm water and raise the 
 temperature progressively, taking about fifteen minutes to reach 
 boiling. If the jars are to be processed at 212° Fahrenheit, thia 
 is to say in plain boiling water, start counting the time from the 
 moment the water starts boiling. Maintain a slow boiling for 
 the length of time required, then shut off the steam allowing 
 the jars to stay in the water at least twelve minutes in order to 
 allow them to cool off gradually. Should they be taken out of 
 the hot boiling water, the glass is liable to crack if there is a 
 cold draft in the room. 
 
 If the processing is to be made under pressure in closed re- 
 tort, it can be in either water or steam. 
 
 If in water it should be slowly brought to boil, raised pro- 
 
104 
 
 gressively until the required temperature is reached when the 
 time is taken marking the beginning of the length of processing 
 to be given. 
 
 Kemeniber that the jars are air tightly sealed, the contents 
 cannot escape, neither can the water of the bath penetrate into 
 them; it therefore requires some special care. I have already 
 stated that the raising of the temperature must be made slowly, 
 slower yet must the lowering be made. During the processing 
 there is a certain pressure corresponding with the degree of the 
 temperature reached, the higher the temperature the greater the 
 pressure, but whatever the temperature maintained in the kettle 
 may be , the inside of the jar which does not receive a direct but 
 transmitted heat will not be at, nor reach, as high temperature 
 as there is in the kettle, therefore the pressure inside of the jar 
 will be lower than the pressure outside, consequently there will 
 be no danger of bursting. However if, when the required time 
 for processing is over, the steam is all of a sudden shut off and 
 the pressure in the retort allowed to drop to atmospheric pres- 
 sure, the pressure inside of the jar not being effected remains the 
 same and the body of the jar which was under an outside pres- 
 sure v.iii find itself suddenly under a great inside pressure, this 
 producing a shock which is more than liable to burst the jar. 
 If the pressure in the retort is lowered slowly there is no danger 
 of bursting whatsoever. For the same reason, if hj neglect the 
 processor has allowed the retort to reach a pressure much greater 
 than desired, there will be no harm done provided the pressure 
 is brought back to where it should be, but this must be done 
 slowly in two or three minutes. 
 
 All the above refers also to the processing of the jars in 
 steam bath, but in this case, there being no water, the jars are 
 directly heated by the steam; great care should be taken to heat 
 slowly, especially at the start. 
 
 In fact, in processing glass jars either in water or direct 
 steam, sudden variation, increase or decrease of pressure or tem- 
 })erature must be avoided. 
 
 Wlien the total loss in sealint? and processing exceeds in the 
 whole two per cent, there is a fault and it should be remedied at 
 once, and the manufacturer should only consider himself satisfied 
 when the percentage of the loss is reduced to one per cent. 
 
lOJ 
 
 JAMS IN JAKS SHOULD BE SEALED. 
 
 If the jam is semi-liquid tlie jars siiould be sealed with caps 
 lined with cork washers and processed for one hour; however, the 
 average jams and jellies will keep by themselves if the jars are 
 sealed hot. 
 
 Jams and jellies are sold at a very low price, and in order to 
 reduce the cost of the sealing of the jars to a minimum, they are 
 sealed with caps lined with composition washers or cardboard, 
 the contact of the goods with the washer being prevented by a 
 disc of either parchment or wax paper. The cardboard not being 
 as compressible as cork, the jars must in this case have a finish 
 a little different than the previous description. The total height 
 of the rim of the neck remains the same, but there is no groove; 
 the top can be either ground off when the jars are blown, or 
 smooth when the jars are machine-made, same as manufactured 
 by the Hazel Glass Co., of Washington, Pa.; the C. L. Flaccus 
 Glass Co., of Pittsburgh, Pa.; Ball Brothers Glass Manufacturing 
 Co., of Muncie, Ind. 
 
 Jars sealed with caps 
 lined with composition or 
 cardboard washers cannot be 
 processed. 
 
 BOTTLING OF FRUITS IN 
 BRANDY. 
 
 CoA^troa-' ^^ w/'asher. 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 Jar Finish No 2 for Jam, Jellies, Pickles sealed with cap 
 
 lined with cardboard and wax paper. 
 
 Fruits in brandy and 
 other similar goods, which 
 are not processed, should be sealed with caps lined with water- 
 proof cork washers. These corks have great elasticity and being 
 water-proof they constitute the best seal for this line of goods, 
 as no evaporation of the spirit can take place; the jars should 
 have the regular cork finish, No. 4. (See Fig. ) However, for 
 cheap goods, which are, of course, not processed, the cap lined 
 with cardboard washer can be used; in this case the Jar should 
 have finish No. 2. (See Fig. H.) 
 
106 
 
 PACKING VEGETABLES IN GLASS. 
 
 Vegetables, after they are blanched and cooled off, are put 
 up in the jars, dipped cold, and allowed to stand fifteen to twenty 
 minutes before sealing, this on account of the vegetables absorb- 
 ing some of the brine. After this time refill your jars up to one 
 inch from the top. The jars are sealed with caps lined with rub- 
 ber rings and tinfoil, the latter to prevent the rubber from com- 
 ing in contact with the salt water. The jars are then processed 
 same as described for the fruit in glass jars. (See Fig. 10.) 
 
 The reason for leaving one inch empty space on top of the 
 jars, and this applies as well to the fruits and other goods con- 
 taining liquids, is that the water is very little compressible. 
 During the processing the water will be heated and expand. If 
 the jar was full of a cold liquid the expansion, not being able 
 to find room, would have such strength as to burst the jar. By 
 leaving one inch, this space is occupied by the air, which is very 
 compressible, and will give under the pressure of the liquid ex- 
 panding, allowing room for it, and the jar will not burst. 
 
 AIR SPACE ON TOP OF THE JARS. 
 
 Experience has taught that one inch is the proper room for 
 the expansion of a pint jar having an outside diameter of the 
 neck of 2 1-4 inches, 1 1-2 inches for quart jar with same neck, 
 but reduced to 1-2 inch for pint jars with 3 inches diameter and 
 1-2 inch for quart with 3 1-2 inches of the neck. 
 
 Dipping the jars too full is often the cause of large breakage, 
 which can be very easily avoided. 
 
 Glass jars must not be cooled off suddenly after processing, 
 it would only cause an enormous breakage without gaining any- 
 thing. This cooling off is of no use whatsoever. It does not 
 destroy ferments; it is the heat that does that; it does not prevent 
 the spores, which are not destroyed from germinating; it is the 
 two or three per cent, of salt contained in the brine that does it. 
 
 When processing jars in either water or steam, it matters 
 not whether the jars are lying down flat, or in an upright posi- 
 tion, or are upside down, they are to be disposed so as to process 
 as many jars as possible in one operation. 
 
107 
 
 PRESERVING VEGETABLES. 
 
 Imported and Domestic Manufacture — The Use of Copper for 
 
 Green Peas. 
 
 This is one of the most important branches of canning, enor- 
 mous quantities of vegetables are prepared every year, but very 
 few have merits. The vegetables must not only taste good, but 
 have an attractive appearance. For the best protection of the 
 public, a campaign has been made against the use of sulphate of 
 copper for peas, string beans, etc., not because it is a dye used to 
 artificially color the goods, but because there are men who call 
 themselves preservers who have misused the sulphate of copper 
 or employed substitutes which would undoubtedly have 
 caused fatal accidents. However, the fact that I, with all sen- 
 sible canners, condemn the use of chemicals in connection with 
 food products does not involve that we should all sing the same 
 chorus and repeat again the old story of the misdoing and the 
 evils of the copper. We might just as well be honest about it; 
 the prohibition of the sulphate has stopped the importation of 
 European goods which are all green, it has forced the domestic 
 products on the American public. But now that Americans 
 control the trade, it would be just as well if not better that the 
 goods be treated properly so as to make them remain as natural 
 as possible, not only in taste ^ but in color. 
 
 NATURAL AND GREEN VEGETABLES. 
 BLANCHING OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 When, a few years ago, canning was still in its infancy in 
 the States, the vegetables were merely put raw in the cans, cov- 
 ered with water and sealed, allowing a vent hole. After about 
 thirty minutes cooking, the vent was sealed and the processing 
 resumed. The products prepared were mushy and of no engaging 
 appearance; were they peas, to color them sulphate of copper 
 
lOS 
 
 was added to the brine, but this would not make them green; 
 then the proportion was increased, and still increased, and no 
 other result was obtained than seriously tampering with the 
 health of the consumer. 
 
 The sulphate of copper absorbed in large quantities is poi- 
 sonous, but when in quantity small enough to cause only a slight 
 indisposition, it gives the products to which it is added such a 
 bad and disgusting taste that it is utterly impossible to swallow 
 them. It has such a repulsive taste that it would cause an in- 
 tended suicide to change his mind before having absorbed enough 
 of the chemical. 
 
 The sulphate of copper is not a dye, it is a mordant; it merely 
 fixes the natural green color of the vegetables; if the peas or the 
 string beans are over-ripe, turning yellow, the sulphate will not 
 make them green again. When there is no green color to be 
 fixed, it cannot fix any. If the vegetables have been heated by 
 the fermentation, in other words if they are not canned as soon 
 as picked and they begin to decompose, causing their color to 
 fade, they will not regain the green they have lost, neither will 
 the sulphate make them green again. 
 
 In fact, if you have not first-class peas, do not attempt to fix 
 the green; if you have fresh young peas, I consider it would be a 
 crime not to retain this tender green color when it is so easily 
 done. 
 
 Of course, to the canner who packs peas that come from far 
 in the country, and which are only packed 68 hours after they 
 have been picked, it will be policy to fight against the green 
 article which he cannot produce. 
 
 The consumer quickly learns that such goods look fine and 
 taste good; they taste good because they look fine, and they look 
 fine because they were fresh and green when packed, their color 
 has been fixed and it is there yet. It is the undeniable proof of 
 the soundness of the pack. 
 
 The sulphate of copper is no paint nor disguise; if there is 
 in the batch an over-ripe pea, it will remain yellow; if it escapes 
 the eye and finds its way in a can, the consumer will find the dif- 
 ference by himself; he will soon learn that this frightful copper is 
 in fact his best friend, the faithful detective that will point out 
 the unsound and therefore unpalatable. 
 
1G9 
 
 The conserve manufacturer is not a 
 druggist ; it is not part of his trade to sell 
 copper salts, but there is no reason why he 
 should not use the advantages offered by 
 the sulphate of copper so long as he de- 
 livers to the trade goods which are per- 
 fectly sound. The green color of the vege- 
 tables is fixed by the following process: 
 
 When the water, in which the vege- 
 tables are to be blanched is boiling, add to 
 it the salt and the required quantity of sul- 
 phate, about one ounce to each twelve gal- 
 lons of water. Throw the vegetables in 
 this bath, allowing them to boil until they 
 are softened. 
 
 Hoist the perforated, tinned copper 
 basket containing the peas or beans and 
 
 Fig. 12 & f 
 
 Tinned Copper Kettle, with per- lower it lu the cold watcr tauk, stirring to 
 
 forated basket for blanching ' '^ 
 
 ^" ""' vegetiiTie"^ ^""^ cool as quickly as possible, and let cold 
 
 water run to renew the bath; it will remove all the sulphate. 
 
 When cold, can or bottle, 
 dip with hot or cold brine, seal 
 airtightly and process. Jars or 
 bottles filled with vegetables 
 and cold dipped should be al- 
 lowed to stand fifteen minutes 
 after dipping as they absorb a 
 certain quantity of the brine 
 audit is afterwards necessary to fig. 13. 
 
 refill them. The sealing of the ''''''' ^''\7^^,lZ7St!llZtC^^^^^ 
 bottles is to be absolutely airtight and a pure tinfoil disc must be 
 used to prevent the contact of the brine with the rubber lining 
 of the Phoenix Cap, the rubber being decomposed by salt water. 
 The caps lined with cork washers cannot be used for vegetables 
 as the tannic acid of the cork would cause the vegetables to turn 
 yellow. 
 
 All the vegetables (with the exception of corn, 
 for which it should also be done) are blanched before 
 canning. For this they are merely thrown in boiling water 
 
110 
 
 and boiled until softened; thrown in cold water will harden them 
 again, and allow packing without damaging them. 
 
 The blanching has not only the effect of washing off and 
 destroying all the germs which have accumulated on the surface 
 of the vegetables, but also the ferments and molds which have 
 already secured a foothold in some parts. It removes the excess 
 of acids, freeing the vegetables of their crudity or raw taste. It 
 also dissolves the mucilaginous matter which is so readily at- 
 tacked by the bacillus lactic acidi and favors the development 
 of the bacillus butyricus. 
 
 If some fermentation has already taken place, the removal 
 of the mucilaginous matter will, at the same time, drive away the 
 minute organisms which were attacking it. 
 
 An insufficient blanching fails to remove all the soluble 
 mucilage and whatever remains will be dissolved by the brine 
 when processing, and cause the liquid to be cloudy and slimy. 
 This is often and unduly blamed to the bacilli viscosi. 
 
 PEAS. 
 
 Blanching, Canning, Processing. 
 
 All varieties can be canned, but a poor grade will never 
 produce a fair quality of goods. The main thing is to have fresh 
 peas; thirty-six hours after they are picked they are not suitable 
 any more for good products. The fermentation sets in peas very 
 quickly; it develops heat soon followed by full decomposition. 
 In order to avoid fermentation, the peas left at the end of the 
 day's work should be stor,ed over night in a cool, well-aerated 
 place and spread over the floor, avoiding too thick a layer. 
 
 The peas are shelled and sorted to size by machinery, then 
 "blanched" until softened and cooled off in cold running water. 
 The addition of one ounce of sulphate of copper to the blanching 
 bath will fix the green color of the peas. V 
 
 The blanching kettle (Fig. 12.) should have a capacity of 
 twenty gallons. Pour in ten gallons of water and as soon as it 
 starts boiling add a handf u 1 of common table salt, and when 
 dissolved throw in the peas, stirring continually and skimming, 
 in this way separating all the dust. 
 
 Blanching requires more or less time according to the size 
 and variety of peas, as well as the season, the fair average 
 is as follows: 
 
Ill 
 
 Extra fine, 5 minutes 
 
 Fine, 6 " 
 
 Medium, 8 " 
 
 Large, 10 " 
 
 BRINE FOR CANNED PEAS. 
 
 The brine sJiould be made hot and can be use I hot or cold. 
 
 A good brine is made in dissolving common salt in boiling 
 
 water. 
 
 Water, 25 gallons 
 
 Salt, 2 quarts (measure) 
 
 It should mark 2 to 3° Beaume when cold. 
 
 SWEET BRINE. 
 The sweet brine is composed of 
 
 Water 
 
 25 Gallons 
 
 Salt, 
 
 4 lbs. 
 
 Crystallized sugar 
 
 4 " 
 
 Some manufacturers flavor the latter by boiling it a few min- 
 utes, adding one pound of sliced onions and four heads of lettuce 
 cut in pieces. 
 
 The brine as soon as boiled should be passed through a white 
 flannel, in order to separate all the dust it may contain. 
 
 If the peas are exceedingly farinaceous and forming a sedi- 
 ment at the bottom of the cans or jars, this will be prevented by 
 the addition of 1-3 ounce of carbonate of soda to each ten gal- 
 lons of brine. 
 
 If the green color has been fixed with the sulphate of copper, 
 process as follows: 
 
 CANS. 
 
 Pints 
 
 10 
 
 min. 
 
 at 236 Fah. 
 
 
 Quarts 
 
 15 
 
 u 
 
 a (c (( 
 
 
 Gallons 
 
 25 
 OR 
 
 (I 
 
 ii (( <( 
 
 
 Pints 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 « 232 " 
 
 
 Quarts 
 
 17 
 
 t( 
 
 (( « (( 
 
20 " 
 
 a u u 
 
 30 " 
 
 a u u 
 
 13 min. 
 
 at 236 Fah, 
 
 17 " 
 
 u u a 
 
 112 
 
 Jars sealed with Phoenix Caps, process same as the cans at 
 232 = 
 
 For big marrowfat peas the processing should be increased 
 by two minutes at 236° or three minutes at 232° 
 
 If the peas have been blanched without addition of sulphate 
 of copper, process as follows: 
 Cans or Jars. 
 
 Medium c Pints 16 min. at 236 Fah. 
 
 & J Quarts 
 
 Large ( Gallons 
 
 Fine & ( Pints 
 Extra fine ( Quarts 
 
 Always allow the glass jars to cool off a few minutes in the 
 retort before taking them out. 
 
 STRING BEANS. 
 
 String beans are packed w^hole or cut; however they are pre- 
 pared in the same manner; they are blanched, cooled off in cold 
 running water, put up in cans or glass jars same as the peas. 
 They are covered with salt brine, sealed airtightly and processed. 
 
 String beans are quickly softened by the blanching, which is 
 therefore very short; the average is: 
 
 For Extra fines 1^ minutes. 
 
 Fine 2 " 
 
 Medium 2 " 
 
 Large 3 " 
 
 Schnittbonen 1^ " 
 
 The brine penetrates the beans easier than it penetrates the 
 peas, and therefore requires less salt. A good brine will be 
 obtained in desolving 
 
 Salt 2 lbs. 
 
 Water 10 gallons 
 
 boil two minutes, strain through a flannel and dip the cans or 
 jars cold. 
 
113 
 
 It is advisable to fix the color by adding one-half ounce of 
 sulphate of copper to each ten gallons of the blanching water. 
 
 String beans are a poor field for the development of bac- 
 teria. This is a reason why a light salt brine can be used, and 
 for the same reason only a short processing is required. 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 Process as follows: 
 Cans or Jars. 
 Pints, 6 minutes at 232° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 12 " " 232° " 
 
 Half gallons 15 " " 232° " 
 
 Gallons, 15 " " 236° " 
 
 GENERAL RULE FOR PROCESSING VEGETABLES. 
 
 As a rule for vegetables, the processing can be shortened 
 or made at lower temperature when the blanching is lengthened. 
 In reference to the string beans, if the variety packed is very 
 young and tender, they should be thoroughly blanched and the 
 processing done for the above given length of time but at 224 "* 
 Fahrenheit only. 
 
 After processing, cool off the cans and allow the jars to 
 cool off slowly. 
 
 In the States there is no rule as to the quantity of string 
 beans required in each can or jar. The imported article is reg- 
 ulated at eight ounces of beans for the pints, and sixteen ounces- 
 of beans for the quarts. 
 
 LIMA BEANS. 
 CANNING IN TIN AND GLASS. 
 
 Very few canned lima beans are good ; this is most likely due 
 to the quality of the beans themselves. Young green beans 
 blanched for fifteen minutes in water, cooled off in running 
 water, packed in cans or jars, dipped with cold brine, airtightly 
 sealed and processed, would constitute a high class preparation. 
 The brine should have two to three per cent, of common salt. 
 A little carbonate of soda should be added to ripe beans so as 
 to keep the liquor clear. 
 
114 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 
 The processing should be: 
 Small beans Pints, 
 Quarts, 
 
 20 minutes at 230' 
 
 25 " " 230 = 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Medium and 
 
 
 
 
 
 Large beans. 
 
 Pints, 
 
 20 
 
 i( 
 
 " 236 
 
 
 Quarts, 
 
 25 
 
 u 
 
 " 236 
 
 Common goods are put up directly in cans, hot dipped, ex- 
 hausted 12 minutes and processed 40 minutes at 240". All the 
 mucilaginous matter remains in the cans the contents of which 
 are always mushy owing to the length of the processing. The 
 pack in glass should ahvays be blanched, and in all cases care 
 should be given not to fill the cans too much as the beans swell 
 while processing. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 BLANCHING AND CANNING. 
 Asparagus is difficult to pack and it nearly requires to be 
 such a master in the art as R. Hickmott, of San Francisco, to 
 turn out quantity and quality. 
 
 Round and square cans as well as glass jars are used. 
 The asparagus is first scraped and carefully sorted by size, 
 notwithstanding its length, then cut all 
 the same size as the length of your 
 cans or jars and wash in cold water. 
 
 Place the asparagus, standing head up, 
 in the perforated or tinned wire basket of 
 the blancher and as soon as the water boils 
 lower the basket into the water so that only 
 li to 2 inches of asparagus will be in the 
 water, boil three to four minutes, then lower 
 the basket so that about two-thirds of the 
 asparagus will be in the water, boil three 
 minutes more, after which time lower totally 
 ---the basket giving one minute full boiling. 
 Cool off in cold running water, the longer 
 the better, but not less than thirty minutes. 
 Can or put in glass jars and dip cold with 
 brine made of 
 
 Fio. 11. 
 
115 
 
 Salt, • 4 lbs. 2 oz. 
 
 Water, 20 gallons 
 
 This brine should be boiled and cooled off before use. The 
 water in which the asparagus is blanched should contain one- 
 half lb. of salt to each twelve gallons of water. 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 
 Process : 
 
 Two-pound cans, 45 minutes at 212° Fah. 
 
 Four-pound cans, 55 " " 212° " 
 
 or Two-pound cans, 12 " " 238° " 
 
 Four-pound cans, 15 " " 238'' « 
 
 The cans should be cooled. 
 
 For glass jars sealed with the Phoenix Caps give five min- 
 utes less processing than for cans at 212° or 240° Fah., allow- 
 ing the jars to cool off gradually for 15 minutes. 
 
 ASPARAGUS TIPS. 
 
 Asparagus tips are made of white or green grass. 
 
 The white grass is prepared same as the canned asparagus, 
 the blanching being reduced to two minutes, same brine and 
 processing. 
 
 For the green grass add one ounce of sulphate of copper to 
 each eight gallons of the blanching water in order to fix the 
 green color. 
 
 If the tips are too soft after being blanched and cooled off, 
 let them stay one hour longer in cold water adding to same one 
 ounce of alum per eight gallons of water. 
 
 CARROTS AND TURNIPS. 
 BLANCHING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 Carrots and turnips are fine vegetables; they should be put 
 up early in the spring and only hot-bed growth used. 
 
 Scrape with a knife and blanch, in light salt water until the 
 fork pierces through them easily. Refresh in cold water, put 
 in cans or jars covering with the following brine: 
 
IIG 
 
 Water, • 20 gallons 
 
 Salt, 6 lbs. 
 
 Sugar, 6 " 
 
 These are fancy goods and only put up in pints and quarts, 
 cans or jars, both are submitted to the same processing. 
 
 Pints, 20 minutes at 235° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 27 " " 235° " 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 BLANCHING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 The celery must be tender and white; leave whole, cutting 
 the stems of the height of the cans. Blanch in salt water until 
 easily pierced with a pin. 
 
 Salt, 8 ounces 
 
 Water, 4 gallons 
 
 Put up in cans or jars and brine with 
 
 Water, 4 gallons 
 
 Salt, li lbs. 
 
 Bay leaves, 6 oz. 
 
 Mace, 4 oz. 
 
 Process: ^ 
 
 Cans or Jars. 
 Quarts, 18 minutes at 235° Pah. 
 
 i gallons, 26 " " 235° " 
 
 or in open bath. 
 
 Quarts, 75 minutes 
 
 Half gallons, 2 hours 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 WHOLE TOMATOES. 
 
 CANNING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 They must be selected of proper size to go into the cans or 
 jars 71ace them in lukewarm water containing a handful of salt 
 
117 
 
 to each twelve gallons of water, bring slowly to a boil, picking 
 the tomatoes with the skimmer and plunging them in cold water. 
 Can and dip with cold brine. 
 
 Water, 
 
 20 gallons 
 
 Salt, 
 
 4 lbs. 
 
 Process cans or jars. 
 
 
 Two-pound, 
 
 8 minutes at 235° Fat 
 
 Three-pound, 
 
 10 « " 235° " 
 
 or 
 
 
 Quarts (two-pour 
 
 id), 16 " " 212° « 
 
 Three-pound, 
 
 20 « (( 212° '* 
 
 Packed in jars, air tightly sealed with the Phoenix Cap, it 
 makes a beautiful package. 
 
 CANNED TOMATOES. 
 
 Scald and peel the tomatoes, packing solid in cans or jars. 
 Seal and process promptly. 
 
 or 
 
 Pints, 
 
 6 
 
 minutes 
 
 at 235° 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 
 
 8 
 
 a 
 
 " 235° 
 
 « 
 
 Three pounds. 
 
 10 
 
 ii 
 
 " 235° 
 
 a 
 
 Pints, 
 
 14 
 
 it 
 
 « 212° 
 
 11 
 
 Quarts, 
 
 18 
 
 a 
 
 " 212° 
 
 li 
 
 Three pounds. 
 
 25 
 
 u 
 
 " 212° 
 
 u 
 
 If okra is mixed with the tomatoes, the processing must be 
 made at 235°. The okra must be blanched first. 
 
 NEW POTATOES. 
 CANNING, PROCESSING. 
 
 Shake the potatoes in a common bag with a handful of rough 
 packing salt; this will remove the skin; wash quickly in cold 
 water, and blanch one to two minutes in boiling water as follows: 
 
 Cool off in running water, can and cover with 
 
118 
 
 Salt, liib. 
 
 Water, . 4 gallons 
 
 Alum, i ounce 
 
 Process : 
 
 Pints, 15 minutes at 232° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 18 " " 232° " 
 
 i gallons, 22 " " 232° " 
 
 Cool off the cans. 
 
 CORN. 
 
 PACKING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 Corn ears should^ same as all other vegetables, be blanched; 
 this is to say, boiled for 15 minutes in water with a handful 
 of salt — then the ears should be passed through the corn cutter 
 and the packing done without use of cookers — but merely a 
 filler, the jars or cans should be dipped hot with 
 
 Water 20 gallons. 
 
 Salt 1 lb. 4 oz. 
 
 Sugar 2 lb. 
 
 seal airtightly and process cans of jars 
 
 Pints 30 minutes 235° 
 
 By the actually in use methods the corn is cooked in special 
 apparatus known as "Corn Cookers," and live steam is in direct 
 contact with the pulp of the corn. 
 
 If sulphite of soda is added it should be in a very small 
 quantity, but I do not advise it except in superior qualities 
 having a tendency to discolor during processing. 
 
 The success lies in having a good cooker and not running it at 
 too high speed; the processing offers no difficulty, whether done 
 in cans or glass jars. 
 
 After sealing air tightly, process: 
 
 
 CANS. 
 
 Pints, 
 
 60 minutes at 244° Fah, 
 
 Quarts, 
 
 85 " " 244° " 
 
119 
 
 JARS. 
 
 Pints, 50 minutes at 235° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 65 " " 238° " 
 
 Allow 15 minutes for glass jars to bring pressure back toatmos 
 pheric pressure. 
 
 MUSHROOMS. 
 RAISING MUSHROOMS. 
 
 The home production is quite small and I could nearly say 
 that were it not for E. C. Hazard, of Shrewsbury, N. J., these 
 would all be imported. 
 
 Mushrooms are raised in beds, in cellars especially built 
 for the purpose. In Paris, France, they are extensively culti- 
 vated in the old "Catacombs" (underground stone quarries), they 
 are no other than the white argaric and spontaneously grow on 
 horse-manured lawns when conditions are favorable. 
 
 Practically the mushrooms will grow in any building provided 
 no light or draft be allowed to interfere with their growth 
 and the beds can be made on the floor or on shelves. 
 
 Make a layer of about twelve inches of horse manure with- 
 out straw and every ten inches apart make a small hole in which 
 place a piece of mushroom spawn. Cover the holes with manure 
 and cover the whole bed with not over two inches of light, black 
 sandy ground. 
 
 Water every week with a florist watering can, do not use 
 more than a pint per square yard, this water being about 70° 
 Fahrenheit and prepared as follows: 
 
 Water, * 1 gallon 
 
 Saltpetre, i ounce 
 
 After the bed has started to produce, the mushrooms can be 
 picked every day for about five months, sometimes longer, until 
 it is "exhausted." Then tear off the beds saving the spawn 
 which you will use for the new beds. 
 
 Experience proves that the mushrooms grow best when the 
 inside of the bed is kept at a temperature of 105 to 115° Fahren- 
 heit, thus maintaining the beds at that temperature by a system 
 
120 
 
 of hot water pipes as existing in Shrewsbury which enables to 
 produce winter and summer. 
 
 Special care is to be taken in picking the mushrooms not to 
 break the fibres from which they sprout. For this take the 
 mushroom with the hand and turn it gently as if to screw it; it 
 will break easily without disturbing the plant. The atmosphere 
 of the mushroom house must always be moist; if allowed to be 
 dry it will i>;reatly injure the beds. 
 
 CANNING. 
 
 The mushrooms are picked when small and before the um- 
 brellas open and packed with water in cans or jars, the imported 
 article is of several grades. 
 
 1° Extras, small and even mushrooms. 
 
 2° First Choice, which is the standard. 
 
 3° Galipettes or Hotel grade which contains all the broken, 
 irregular and open mushrooms. 
 
 Peel the mushrooms and throw them in a bucket of water 
 containing 
 
 Water, 2 gallons 
 
 Sulphite of Soda, i ounce , 
 
 : BLANCHING. 
 
 Blanch in boiling; bath made as follows: 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 gallons 
 
 Salt, 
 
 2 lbs. 
 
 Alum, 
 
 1 oz. 
 
 Citric acid, 
 
 i " 
 
 Bisulphite solution. 
 
 i " 
 
 Juice of six lemons. 
 
 
 I The bisulphite solution is prepared as follows: 
 
 Water, 1 gallon 
 
 Bisulphite of soda, 6 ozs. 
 
 Chlorhydric acid, 7 " 
 
 Dissolve first the bisulphite in the water, then add the 
 acid. As soon as blanched, which requires about four minutes, 
 
121 
 
 the mushrooms are cooled off in cold running water, then put 
 in cans or jars and covered with brine as follows: 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 gallons 
 
 Salt, 
 
 i lb. 
 
 Bisulphite solution. 
 
 1-8 oz. 
 
 Citric acid, 
 
 1-3 " 
 
 Some manufacturers prefer to brine with 2 per cent, salt 
 water. 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 Process : 
 
 Cans or Jars. 
 
 One-half pints, 13 minutes at 230° Fah. 
 
 Pints, 16 " " 230° " 
 
 Quarts, 20 " " 230° « 
 
 This way of preparing the mushroom has been used for man\ 
 years and is reliable. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 BLANCHING AND PROCESSING. 
 
 Califlowers are put up in cans or glass jars. Blanch in hot 
 water (water, 10 gallons ; salt, 4 ounces) ; for three minutes, cool 
 off in running water and can in tins or glass. Brine with: 
 
 Water, 25 gallons 
 
 Salt, 4 lbs. 
 
 Process : 
 
 Pints, 17 minutes at 230° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 20 " " 230° " 
 
 Or in boiling water three times longer. 
 
122 
 
 Kettlj for procrssng at high temperature with either 
 steam or water. 
 
 BRUSSEL SPROUTS. 
 CANNING. 
 
 Same as cauliflower. Add one-half ounce of sulphite of 
 copper in the blanching water (one-half ounce copper to 12 gal- 
 lons water). 
 
 Same processing as cauliflower. 
 
123 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Spinach is put up either whole leaves or chopped, the latter 
 being preferred, it should be prepared in the spring when tender. 
 Wash in cold water and blanch for six minutes in hot boiling 
 water containing two ounces of sulphate of copper to each 
 twenty-five gallons of water, and cool off in cold running water. 
 Can, dip with same brine as used for cauliflowers, or, after 
 blanching, chop the spinach, add salt to taste, put in kettle and 
 bring to boil, can hot and process: 
 
 Pints, 20 minutes at 235° Pah. 
 
 Quarts, 25 " " 235° " 
 
 Gallons, 50 " " 235° " 
 
 Or double time in boiling water. 
 
 SORREL. 
 
 Sorrel is prepared same as spinach. 
 
 ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Artichokes should be preserved in the States as they are in 
 Europe; they are a real delicacy and their cost in Louisiana or 
 California is extremely low. They are seldom put up whole, as 
 a quart can could only hold one whole one, when it can easily 
 hold three to four if cut in quarters. Whole or quarters are 
 treated in the same way. 
 
 BLANCHING. 
 
 Cut the artichokes in four, throwing them in cold water 
 containing one ounce of sulphite of soda per ten gallons of water 
 to prevent them from turning black. Blanch the artichokes 
 in this same water, adding one-half ounce of sulphate of copper to 
 each twelve gallons of water to fix the green. After two to four 
 minutes boiling, throw in cold running water to cool off. The 
 artichokes must only be put in the blanching bath when same 
 is boiling. 
 
124 
 
 BRINE. 
 
 The blanching must not cook the artichokes, it would soften 
 them too much and the leaves would not hold to the bottom. 
 As soon as cooled remove the fibrous seeds with a knife and trim 
 the leaves with scissors, put in cans or jars and cover with brine. 
 
 Water, 5 gallons 
 
 Salt, U lbs. 
 
 Alum, 1 oz. 
 
 This brine must be made hot but used cold. 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 Process: 
 
 Pints, 12 minutes at 235° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 18 " " 235° " 
 
 One-half gallons, 25 " " 235° " 
 
 Or four times longer in plain boiling water. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. 
 
 The artichokes must be thoroughly blanched, but, by boiling 
 in water, they are liable to break. This is avoided by placing 
 them in water in a processing kettle, placing over them a heavy 
 sheet iron plate and cooking for three minutes at 220° Fahren- 
 heit. Shave the bottoms evenly with a knife, take off all the 
 leaves and seeds by hand and place the bottoms in white willow 
 baskets and plunge them in a kettle containing a solution of 
 bisulphite of soda. 
 
 Bisulphite, 2 ozs. 
 
 Water, 6 gallons 
 
 Cook slowly for sixteen minutes and cool off in several 
 changes of cold water. 
 
 Can in tins or jars. The bottoms being quite soft, it is cus- 
 tomary to process in plain boiling water. 
 
125 
 
 One-half pints, 50 minutes 
 
 Pints, 65 " 
 
 Quarts, 80 " 
 
 Avoid as much as possible, leaving the artichokes in contact 
 with iron as this metal makes them turn black. 
 
 PUMPKINS. 
 
 Scald a few minutes and remove the rind with knives, grate 
 and mash with the machines especially made for the purpose, 
 putting the pulp in a kettle where it is boiled with a little water 
 for ten minutes stirring continually. 
 
 Can hot and process: 
 
 Pints, 
 
 10 minutes at 235° Fah 
 
 Quarts, 
 
 15 " " 235° " 
 
 Gallons, 
 
 25 " " 235° " 
 
 READY PREPARED VEGETABLES. 
 
 I have described the preparation of vegetables such as are 
 found in nearly every grocery store. 
 
 The first thought of man is to insure his means of exist- 
 ence, to make a living and to make money. He then finds he 
 needs a companion in life. Having his human needs and desires 
 satisfied, he will think of comfort, refinement and art. 
 
 Such is also the case with nations. America's only thought 
 was, first to fight for life, then for money. American women be- 
 came champions of art. Refinement of taste had to follow the 
 general rule, starting in the higher class of society and spread- 
 ing rapidly. 
 
 But if many know how to appreciate a good thing, few know 
 how to prepare it. I therefore believe that, by giving the prep- 
 aration of ready cooked and seasoned vegetables, it will help 
 some manufacturers who will, in return, be of great assistance 
 to the public in general. 
 
126 
 
 JUNE PEAS, FRENCH STYLE. 
 
 Do not blanch. Wash the peas in cold water and cook for 
 one hour, with little water, in steam enamel kettle having a tight- 
 fitting cover, with seasoning as follows 
 
 Butter, 2i lbs. 
 
 Peas, 30 quarts 
 
 Salt, 1 lb. 
 
 The yellow of eight lettuce. 
 
 Sugar, 1 lb. 
 
 Six peeled, small, whole onions. 
 
 Can hot with the juice and process: 
 Pints, 20 minutes at 135° Fah. 
 
 Quarts, 25 " « 135° " 
 
 None better can be had at Del- 
 
 monico's. 
 
 EARLY PEAS WITH HAM OR 
 BACON. 
 
 These are prepared same as "Peas 
 in French style," but after forty-five 
 minutes cooking add a reasonable 
 quantity of small slices of ham, cook 
 thirty minutes more, can hot and pro- 
 cess same as French style. 
 
 Bacon can be used instead of ham. 
 
 CARROTS IN BUTTER. 
 
 When canning the blanched car- 
 rots, cover with 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 Kettle with coyer for preparing ready 
 
 cooked and seaBoned yegetablee and 
 
 meats for canning. 
 
 Water, 5 
 
 Sugar, 2 
 
 Salt, 2 
 
 Butter, 2 
 
 Boil five minutes and dip hot. 
 Process same as carrots in water. 
 
 gallons 
 lbs. 4 ozs. 
 lbs. 
 
127 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Boil two hours in enameled kettle. 
 
 Tomatoes, 100 lbs. 
 
 Salt, 1 lb., 2 ozs. 
 
 Bayleaves ^ oz. 
 
 Cloves, i oz. 
 
 Onions, 3 lbs. 
 
 Pass through a thin sieve of perforated nickel, if possible. 
 The sauce must be thick; bottle, seal air tightly and process: 
 
 One-half pints, 15 minutes at 222° Fah. 
 
 Pints, 20 " " 222° " 
 
 Quarts, 30 " " 222° « 
 
 SPINACH WITH BUTTER. 
 
 Prepare as plain spinach, adding one ounce of salted butter 
 to each pound of spinach, boil four minutes. 
 Can hot and process: 
 
 Pints, 20 minutes at 238° Fah. 
 
 (i 
 
 Quarts, 25 " " 238' 
 
 SORREL WITH BUTTER. 
 Prepared same as spinach. 
 
 MUSHROOMS IN BUTTER. 
 
 Melt butter in a kettle and as soon as it boils throw in the 
 peeled mushrooms, boil five minutes, pick the mushrooms with 
 the skimmer, can them tight covering with butter. Put new 
 batch of mushrooms in the kettle, etc. 
 
 Process : 
 
 Cans or Jars. 
 
 One-half pints, 15 minutes at 232° Fah. 
 
 Pints, 20 " " 232° " 
 
 Quarts, 25 « " 233° « 
 
128 
 
 However, the mushrooms, in my opinion, require spices to 
 strengthen and back up their especial flavor, I would therefore 
 favor the following recipe: 
 
 Cook in a flat bottom kettle on direct fire 
 
 Mushrooms (previously peeled), 5 lbs. 
 
 Water, 1 pint 
 
 Salt, 4 ounces 
 Medium size onions cut in large slices, 5 lbs. 
 
 Ground black pepper, i oz. 
 
 Parsley, i " 
 
 Garlic, 1 clove 
 
 Tied in a bunch. 
 
 Put cover on kettle and boil fifteen minutes, can in tins or 
 jars tightly, pouring over one ounce of melted butter for the 
 pints, two ounces for the quarts. 
 
 Process same as above. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 PREPARATION AND PROCESSING. 
 
 TINS OR GLASS JARS. 
 
 The plum pudding is made with butter or suet, the latter 
 being preferred. 
 
 The grease is cut and hashed, then mixed with the fiour, to 
 which the bread crumbs had been added. 
 
 Mix the orange and lemon peels, cut in small slices with the 
 raisins and the eggs. Knead the whole, adding the salt, lemon 
 zest and grated nutmeg. 
 
 Suet, 1 lb. 
 
 Flour, 1 " 
 
 Bread crumbs, 1 " 
 
 Crystallized sugar, f ' 
 
 Raisins (Corinthe currants), i " 
 
 Orange peel (candied), i " 
 
 Lemon peel (candied), i " 
 
 Pitted Raisins (malaga), f " 
 
 Citron (candied), i " 
 
129 
 
 Medium size fresh apples grated, 2 
 
 Salt, 2 oz. ; 
 
 One-half of a nutmeg. 
 
 Zest of one fresh lemon. ' 
 
 Kum, ^ tumbler 
 
 Milk, 1 glass 
 
 Eggs, 6 
 
 The paste obtained must be firm and is immediately put up 
 in tins or glass jars with Phoenix Caps lined with rubber rings 
 and pure tinfoil discs. The tins or glass jars being processed 
 without vent hole or exhausting of air. 
 
 One quarter pound 2 hours at 222-223° 
 
 One-half " 2i " " 222-223° 
 
 Three-quarter " 2| " " 222-223° 
 
 One pound, 3 " " 222-223° 
 
 I^arger size plum puddings are steamed, that is to say tied up 
 
 in shape of a ball, in a buttered linen towel, boiled for six hours 
 
 for a three-pound pudding, then allowed to cool off, put up in tin 
 
 without water, processed thirty minutes at 225°. Cool off 
 
 the tins with cold water. Glass jars are allowed to cool off for 
 
 15 minutes in the retort or process kettle. 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 
 Crush and boil for one hour one bushel of tomatoes, press 
 through a nickle sieve and put back in the kettle, boiling three 
 hours longer, it must then be a heavy pulp. 
 Add: 
 
 Salt, i lb. 
 
 Sugar, i " 
 
 Special spices, 8 ozs. 
 
 and two quarts of strong vinegar in which one-half lb. of chopped 
 shallots have been boiled for twenty minutes. 
 
 Boil the ketchup fifteen minutes more, bottle hot, sealing, 
 with the Phoenix Caps. Process the bottles in boiling Avater 
 bath if you so desire. 
 
 TOMATO KETCHUP SPECIAL SPICES. 
 To prepare the special spices, mix and grind together the 
 following: 
 
130 
 
 Black pepper, 
 Dried red peppers, 
 Cayenne pepper, 
 Grated nutmeg, 
 Cloves, 
 
 1 lb. 
 
 Cinnamon, 
 
 i 
 
 5 ozs. 
 
 Coriander, 
 
 i 
 
 i " 
 
 Thyme, 
 
 i 
 
 1 " 
 
 Bay leaves. 
 
 1 
 
 li " 
 
 
 
 oz. 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 Especial air-tight glass sealing, allowing to process the bottles after they are sealed: glass stopper 
 remains for use by the consumer. 
 
 VEGETABLES PRESERVED IN SALT. 
 
 The antiseptic power of salt is often used to preserve vege- 
 tables in barrels or stone jars; string beans, tomatoes, arti- 
 chokes and cucumbers being among the leaders in this line. 
 
 The best method of preparing them is as follows : 
 STRING BEANS. 
 
 Blanch not over three minutes and cool off in cold running 
 water for twenty minutes. Put in a barrel in layers, covering 
 each with coarse salt, about one ounce of salt per pound of beans. 
 Pack tight; when the barrel is nearly full cover with a piece of 
 fabric, boards and a stone to press down. Pour over cold water 
 which has previously been boiled. The water must totally 
 cover the beans. Two days later drain the brine through the 
 faucet and boil it, make sure it marks between ten to eleven 
 degrees Beaume; should it be less add salt until it reaches this 
 density. 
 
131 
 
 When cooled off, pour back in the barrel. For shipment 
 <ilose the barrel, fill it with fresh, cold ten degrees brine through 
 the bung-hole and cork up. 
 
 String beans put up this way keep easily for three years if 
 stored in a cool and dark place. 
 
 If desired that they should remain green, add one-half ounce 
 of sulphate of copper to each twelve gallons of water when 
 blanching. 
 
 Before using salted beans, wash them a few hours in several 
 changes of water. 
 
 CUCUMBERS IN SALT BRINE. 
 
 Pack the cucumbers in a barrel as tightly as possible cov- 
 ering each layer Avith salt. When full cover with board and place 
 a stone to keep them pressed down and cover with cold water 
 which has previously been boiled. Drain through the faucet two 
 days later, reboil the water adding salt to maintain the brine at 
 io°to ii°Beaume. Repeat this operation several times if the 
 brine does not keep its degree. 
 
 These cucumbers will keep very long and are used for pick- 
 ling. (Put up in vinegar.) 
 
 ARTICHOKES. 
 
 The brine would have difficulty to penetrate to the heart 
 of the artichokes; it is therefore necessary to take out the seeds. 
 
 With a large, sharp knife, cut the top of the artichokes 
 about li to 2 inches and with a strong spoon remove the small 
 leaves from the middle and the fibrous seeds from the centre, 
 this is to be done without injuring the bottom. Blanch five min- 
 utes in: water, twelve gallons, salt, eight ounces, and cool off in 
 cold running water. 
 
 Put in barrels and cover with brine marking 12° Beaume 
 cold. Once in a while test this brine; if it is below ten degrees 
 drain, reboil it and add salt to bring it back to the proper 
 strength. Should it be cloudy and greenish, throw it away and 
 make a new one as it is partially decomposed. 
 
 Same as other vegetables the artichokes must be kept, by 
 boards and stone, under the level of the brine. The barrels are 
 also to be kept in a cool, dark place. 
 
132 
 
 For use, soak them twelve hours in several changes of water, 
 boil until properly cooked for the table. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Blanch not over two minutes in boiling water containing 
 six ounces of salt to each ten gallons and cool off in cold running 
 water. Put in barrel and cover with 12° brine, drain and cover, 
 with new brine four days later; after this examine every two' 
 weeks to ascertain that the brine is not under 10°, should it be, 
 drain and pour over new brine at 11° Beaume. 
 
 The blanching must not soften the cauliflower as it would 
 be mushy in the barrels and could not be shipped. For use, soak 
 for twelve hours in several changes of water and blanch in plain 
 water. 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 Put sound, not over-ripe tomatoes in stone jars, cover with 
 12° cold brine that has been boiled previously. Hold the toma- 
 toes down in the liquid with a board and a stone Four days later: 
 drain and cover with neAv brine of same strength; cover the sur-' 
 face of the brine with a little salad oil — do not use oil that is 
 rancid or of bad odor. 
 
 These tomatoes will keep for one year. 
 
 SULPHITE IN SALT BRINE. 
 
 Sulphite or bi-sulphite of soda added in the proportion of 
 one ounce to each eight gallons of water, when preparing the 
 salt brine, will prevent mold and fermentation. 
 
 PIOKLINO. 
 
 String Beans, Green Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Cauliflower, etc. 
 Pickling is a very simple operation. Take the vegetables 
 from the brine, soak them one day in several changes of water. 
 Drain, put in barrels or stone jars and pour over hot boiling 
 vinegar. Ten da^'S later drain this vinegar that has lost all its 
 acidity and replace by ncAv hot boiling one. The pickles are 
 ready for bottling. In fact all the vegetables can be pickled by 
 being merely put up in salt brine for a little while, then treated 
 
133 
 
 as above. It is preferable to use strong vinegar in this case; 
 after ten days drain, re-boil, and pour back in the barrel. 
 
 After the cucumbers, beans or other vegetables have been 
 soaked in cold water for twelve hours they should be thrown 
 in hot, boiling water containing one-quarter ounce of sulphate 
 of copper per twelve gallons of water. Do not allow to boil as 
 it would soften the vegetables, stir gently, and when they are 
 green enough wash them thoroughly in water for several hours. 
 Put in vinegar as above. 
 
 PICKLING RED CABBAGE. 
 
 Bed cabbage does not require either blanching or putting 
 up in brine. Shred like sauerkrout, put in barrel, and c<n"er 
 with strong, hot vinegar. Twelve days later drain, re-boil the 
 vinegar, and pour back in the barrel. 
 
 When bottling, cover with fresh-boiled vinegar. 
 
 It is important that the cabbage should always be kept 
 under the surface of the vinegar by a board and stone as weight. 
 
 PICKLING YINEGAB. 
 
 Any strong vinegar is good as long as it has no especial 
 or disagreeable taste. A good flavor is given to the vinegar by 
 merely adding a little sage. However, the best is to mix the 
 spices with the vegetables and then pour the hot vinegar over. 
 These spices should be for a jar containing twenty-five pounds 
 of vegetables: 
 
 Small onions V^ lb. 
 
 Shallots H " 
 
 Thyme >^ oz- 
 
 Sage 'A '' 
 
 Garlic 3 cloves. 
 
 Taragon 1 t>z. 
 
 Black pepper in grains 1 " 
 
 Cloves 'A " 
 
 Bay leaves V^ 
 
134 
 MUSTAKD. 
 
 The mustard seed contains two different oils, a fixed and 
 fat oil, which is in the pit itself, the other volatile and essen- 
 tial, contained in the envelope of the seed. The fixed oil is 
 sweet and can be compared to cotton seed oil; it is without 
 taste and can be used for all purposes. However, absorbed 
 alone at the dose of two ounces it is purgative and acts as 
 castor oil. It freezes only at very low temperature and keeps 
 great length of time before turning rancid; it is therefore suit- 
 able for oiling delicate machinery, clocks and watches. 
 
 The essential oil evaporates spontaneously at a temper- 
 ature of 123° Fahrenheit; its odor is as strong and power- 
 ful as that of ammoniac gas, one drop on the tongue produces 
 a great pain such as a burn and it is felt through the throat 
 and the stomach, in the same time producing great inflamma- 
 tion of the eyes. It dissolves easily in water, vinegar, and 
 burns with a large bright flame. 
 
 It is this volatile oil that gives the mustard its peculiar 
 flavor and strength. ' 
 
 FRENCH AND ENGLISH PROCESS. 
 
 There are two ways of preparing the mustard flour, 
 which, mixed with vinegar is the condiment of interest here. 
 
 By the "French process" the seeds slightly moistened by 
 addition of a little water and finely ground in a mill, the flour 
 obtained is directly used to prepare the mustard. 
 
 By the "English process" the seeds are first pressed and the 
 greater part of its fixed oil (sweet oil) extracted, the dry pulp 
 that is left contains all the essential oil ; this pulp is ground and 
 constitutes the English powdered mustard. The English mus- 
 tard is therefore much stronger than the French, but the latter, 
 containing all the sweet oil, is much softer and has a more deli- 
 cate taste. 
 
 ENGLISH PREPARED MUSTARD. 
 English prepared mustard is merely English process mus- 
 
135 
 
 tard flour mixed with light vinegar and a little salt; the addi- 
 tion of wheat flonr is an adulteration. 
 
 GERMAN PREPARED MUSTARD. 
 
 Mustard flour, 10 lbs. 
 
 Strong vinegar, 10 qts. 
 
 Salted cucumbers, 5 
 
 Ground pepper, 5 oz. 
 
 Cloves, ^ " 
 
 Cinnamon, 
 
 Nutmeg, y2 " 
 
 Use "French process" mustard flour. 
 
 Boil the vinegar, add the mustard and spices, then add ihe 
 cucumbers. Crush into liquid paste. 
 
 FRENCH PREPARED MUSTARD. 
 
 Mustard flour, 
 
 
 
 
 10 lbs. 
 
 Parsley, 
 
 
 
 
 5 oz. 
 
 Celery, 
 
 
 
 
 5 " 
 
 Taragon, 
 
 
 
 
 5 " 
 
 Chervil, 
 
 
 
 
 5 " 
 
 Salt, 
 
 
 
 
 2 " 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 
 
 
 2 " 
 
 Citric acid, 
 
 
 
 
 Ya " 
 
 Salted anchovies, 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Garlic, 
 
 
 
 
 2 cloves 
 
 Add sufficient quantity 
 
 of 
 
 strong 
 
 vinegar. 
 
 FANCY FRENCH 
 
 MUSTARD. 
 
 Parsley, 
 
 
 
 
 4 oz. 
 
 Water cress, 
 
 
 
 
 4 « 
 
 Shalotts, 
 
 
 
 
 3 " 
 
 Celery seeds, 
 
 
 
 
 3 " 
 
 Cinnamon, 
 
 
 
 
 /a " 
 
 Cloves, 
 
 
 
 
 Va " 
 
 Nutmeg, 
 
 
 
 
 /2 " 
 
 Pepper, 
 
 
 
 
 Ya " 
 
 Thyme, 
 
 
 
 
 Ya « 
 
136 
 
 Crush and infuse two weeks in one gallon of strong vinegar 
 then add : o > 
 
 Mustard flour, 10 lbs. 
 
 Salt, 4 Q2. 
 
 Olive oil, 3 " 
 
 Make heavy paste, then add vinegar to reduce to proper 
 thickness. 
 
 IMPERIAL MUSTARD. 
 
 
 
 Celery, 
 
 8 
 
 oz. 
 
 Parsley, 
 
 6 
 
 u 
 
 Chervil, 
 
 6 
 
 u 
 
 Scallion, or shalotte, 
 
 6 
 
 u 
 
 Nutmeg, 
 
 y2 
 
 u 
 
 Pepper, ^ 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 Cloves, 
 
 'A 
 
 u 
 
 Cinnamon, 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 Thyme, 
 
 /3 
 
 a 
 
 Taragon, 
 
 /2 
 
 a 
 
 Crush and infuse two weeks in one gallon vinegar, then add: 
 
 Mustard flour. 
 
 10 
 
 lbs. 
 
 Salt, 
 
 2 
 
 oz. 
 
 Olive oil. 
 
 4 
 
 li 
 
 Add necessary quantity of vinegar. 
 
 
 
 ANCHOVY MUSTARD. 
 
 Mustard, 
 
 Parsley, 
 
 Pepper, 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 Citric acid. 
 
 Nutmeg, 
 
 Garlic, 
 
 Salted anchovies. 
 
 Vinegar, 
 
 10 
 
 lbs. 
 
 10 
 
 oz. 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 2 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 M 
 
 a 
 
 2 
 
 cloves 
 
 1 
 
 lb. 
 
 quantity req'red 
 
137 
 TOMATO MUSTAIID. 
 
 Use English process mustard flour. 
 
 Mustard flour, 10 lbs. 
 
 Tomato pulp, 18 " 
 
 Salt, 6 oz. 
 
 Cayenne pepper, ys " 
 
 Citric acid, ^ " 
 
 Vinegar, quantity req'red 
 
 The tomato pulp must first be reduced by boiling to a very 
 thick paste. 
 
 HORSERADISH MUSTARD. 
 
 English process: 
 
 Mustard flour, 10 lbs. 
 
 Grated horseradish, 7 " 
 
 Salt, 6 oz. 
 
 Pepper, 1 " 
 
 Vinegar, quantity req'red 
 
 Originally the French mustard was made in equal parts of 
 mustard, green grape juice and vinegar plus the tomatoes. In 
 modern days the citric acid has taken place of the green grape 
 juice, which was only obtainable during a short period of the 
 year. 
 
 GREEN MUSTARD. 
 
 Parsley, 12 oz. 
 
 Pepper, 1 '' 
 
 Cloves, 'A " ■ 
 
 Taragon, 6 " 
 
 Bay leaves, >4 " 
 
 Crush and infuse in one gallon vinegar two weeks, then add: 
 French process mustard flour, 6 lbs. 
 
 Dark green vinegar pickled cucumbers, 10 lbs. 
 Salt, 4 oz. 
 
 Crush to make fine paste and add necessary quantity of 
 vinesrar. 
 
13H 
 
 FISH CANNING. 
 
 SAEDINES. 
 
 Sardines are extensively put up in France, where this high- 
 grade fish has practically no value, so abundant they are on 
 its coasts. 
 
 In the United States small fishes of all kinds, but especially 
 herring, are extensively canned in the State of Maine. They 
 constitute the "American Sardines." 
 
 However, the various processes employed for canning sar- 
 dines in oil applies to any kind of fish. The factory is to be 
 right on the shore, and as soon as the fish is landed it is put in 
 barrels and covered with 12 — 20 per cent, cold salt brine in 
 which they are allowed to stay. 
 
 Seventy-five minutes in 12 per cent, brine, or 
 Fifteen minutes in 20 per cent, brine. 
 
 If the fish is small, this time should be reduced; if the 
 average fish is of large size it should be increased proportion- 
 ally. Small fishes are never of good quality; they are always 
 over salted; this on account of the salt bath being regulated for 
 the medium or average size. The fish is then placed on in- 
 clined tables, allowing the brine to drain; with a knife the 
 heads are cut, the digestive organs pulled out, the wings cut 
 and the tail trimmed. They are thrown in baskets, sorting them 
 by their size, large, medium and small. Wash the fish by lower- 
 ing and raising the baskets in a tank of sea water. 
 
 Dispose the sardines on trays which are superposed on 
 trucks and carried to the dryer which is an enclosed space of 
 the height and width of the trucks; several trucks can be 
 placed in the dryer. At one end a large ventilator blows a strong 
 hot air draft through the dryer; the skin of the sardines must 
 be perfectly dry before removing them. 
 
 COOKING. 
 
 There are two ways to cook the sardines- 
 for high grade, steaming for low qualities. 
 
 -fr3ing in oil 
 
139 
 
 FRYING IN OIL. 
 
 For quick work and to produce an even quality of goods 
 the frying apparatus must be constructed especially for the pur- 
 pose and composed of a square sheet iron box with a taper 
 bottom. It is heated by two or three rows of steam pipes, which 
 are at eight inches above the bottom, as per figure and a widely 
 knitted fire screen forms the bottom of the frying apparatus 
 above the steam pipes. 
 
 The oil is kept at proper temperature to fry the fish but 
 not to burn or discolor it. The wire trays containing the sar- 
 dines are lowered in the oil, and they rest on the wire screen 
 bottom. As soon as some of the sardines rise to the surface of 
 the oil they are properly fried ; take the tray out and allow the 
 oil to drain on an inclined table, the excess of oil dripping back 
 into the frying bath. 
 
 Some particles of fish remain in the oil; they accumulate 
 in the bottom below the steam pipes and do not mix with the 
 next batch of sardines. 
 
 As soon as drained and at least partially cooled off the 
 sardines are packed in tins, or glass boxes, covered full with oil 
 and airtightly sealed. 
 
 COOKING IN DRY STEAM. 
 
 This is the quickest process, but it only produces second 
 grades. 
 
140 
 
 From the drying apparatus drive the trucks carrying the 
 trays in a horizontal retort, close and bolt tightly the door, turn 
 the dry steam on for about one and a half minutes, which is suf- 
 ficient time to cook the medium size fish. Open the door of the 
 retort, allow two minutes for the moisture to evaporate, and 
 the fish is ready to be canned, covered with oil and airtightly 
 sealed. 
 
 SARDINES IN GLASS BOXES. 
 Packing of sardines in glass boxes has been rendered not 
 only possible but practical by the combined applications of 
 the patents of tlie Phoenix Cap Company of New York in date 
 of Nov. 28th, 1893, and Nov. 28th, 1899. 
 
 It is not only essential that the package be airtightly 
 sealed and able to stand processing, but it must on the outside 
 leave no space in which the oil can accumulate, turn rancid and 
 give bad appearance to the package when opened. 
 
 The airtight sealing is obtained by placing on the box a 
 flat blank of pure tinfoil having exactly the shape as the top 
 of the glass box; this tin prevents all contact between the oil 
 
 and rubber of the cap; this is an essential 
 feature, as the oil would dissolve and de- 
 compose the rubber. 
 
 The cap composed of the cover and 
 its band and lined with the rubber is 
 placed on the glass box, over the tin foil, 
 and while the sealing machine compresses 
 
 Fig 19. ^ ^ 
 
 the cover on the jar with a 1,000-pound 
 pressure, the lowest part of the ring of the cap is set, turned 
 over the rim of the glass box (fig. 19.) 
 
 PECULIARITIES OP CONSTRUCTION REQUIRED. 
 The other peculiarities in the construction of this package 
 are the concave shape Dt the cover and the rim of the jar. 
 
 The cover is concave; viewed from the inside it is convex; 
 (see fig. I9) when placed over the jar, which is as nearly full as 
 possible, and the pressure being exerted, the middle part of the 
 cover is slightly pressed lower than the level of the oil, forcing 
 same to raise and expel nearly all the air which otherwise would 
 have been imprisoned in the jar. 
 
141 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 After the jar has been sealed it is 
 processed; the expansion of the liquid 
 would burst the jar should it not give 
 enough. The glass jar is rigid and does 
 not give; the cover from concave will be 
 forced convex by the expansion and al- 
 lowing the room it requires. (Fig. 21) 
 
 When cooling off the contraction will take place and the cover 
 will resume its concave shape (Fig. 19.) 
 
 The reason of expelling the air by using a concave cover is 
 not because the air would spoil the goods; I have explained 
 before that the air cannot be the cause 
 of fermentation; the object of expelling 
 the air is to leave as little unoccupied 
 space as possible inside the jar, which 
 later will be placed cover down on the 
 grocery counter or in the delicat- 
 essen store window. If it should 
 show air or empty space, it would give a bad appearance and 
 besides the less unoccupied space there is the less the contents 
 of the jar will be disturbed in shipping, handling, etc. (Fig. (20.) 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 KIM OF THE JARS. 
 
 The cuts here annexed illustrate the use- 
 fulness of this peculiar shape of rim; it leaves 
 no empty space where excess of oil could ac- 
 cumulate and turn rancid. (See fig. 2i.) The 
 cover, after removal of the ring when opening, 
 remains as a perfect lid to the box. (Fig. 22 
 
 PKOCESSING TINS AND JARS. 
 
 Tin cans or glass boxes are submitted to the same processing. 
 
 One-quarter boxes 1 hr. 30. min. in boiling water. 
 
 One-half boxes' 2hrs. " " " " 
 
 For larger boxes increase proportionally, do not cool off 
 glass jars with water. 
 
142 
 SEASONING OP THE OIL. 
 
 It is customary in Europe to add in each box of the superior 
 grade the following spices: 
 
 Pepper 2 
 
 Cloves 1 
 
 A very small piece of thyme 
 A very small piece of bay leaf. 
 
 SARDINES WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 The sardines must be fried in oil; pack in tin or glass and 
 cover with heavy tomato sauce instead of oil. This sauce is 
 the same as described in the vegetable chapter "Tomato Sauce" ; 
 boil it, adding one ounce of butter per pound of sauce. 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 Salmon is packed in enormously large quantities and shipped 
 all over the world, but, as a rule, its quality is poor, due to the 
 lack of skill of the help employed. Take fresh killed salmon, 
 cut in slices of the thickness of the cans or boxes and put in 
 cold salt brine 24" Beaume and leave them for one hour. Shorten 
 this time by half for small pieces. 
 
 Can in tins or glass jars, if any empty space fill with 3° 
 Beaume salt brine, or, if preferred, plain water containing one 
 ounce of alum to each three gallons of water, this to harden the 
 flesh and prevent it from falling to pieces. 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 
 Process: 
 
 One-half pound, 1^ hours 
 
 One pound, 4 " 
 
 Two pounds, 2>2 " 
 
 Cool off the tins with cold water. For glass boxes, reduce 
 
 the processing to seven minutes for the pound, of ten minutes 
 
 for t he two pound, but allow to cool off in the bath for fifteen 
 
 minutes. 
 
143 
 
 1 would prefer the following process: 
 
 One-half pound, 45 niin. at 222° 
 
 One pound, 1 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 Two pounds, 2 hr. at 222° 
 
 SALMON IN GLASS BOXES. 
 
 Many cases of poisoning have been occasioned with carelessly 
 packed salmon. The high grade should be put up in glass boxes, 
 I refer the reader to the previous article "Sardines in Glass 
 Boxes" which applies as well to this line. 
 
 SALMON IN OIL; PREPARATION, PROCESSING. 
 
 This is really the proper way to pack salmon, the great 
 drawback is its price, which will always be much higher than 
 plain salmon, owing to the labor it requires, and the cost of the 
 oil. 
 
 Cut the salmon in slices, put in salt brine same as for plain 
 packing, then dry them in a dryer same as used for sardines. 
 When dry lay them flat, side by side on a wire tray, the bottom 
 of which has been covered with white oiled paper. Lower the 
 trays in hot oil in same apparatus as used for frying sardines; 
 the oil must be hot but not enough to fry the fish; it must retain 
 its shape and not turn dark, as this would make it unmarketable. 
 
 Allow the oil to drain same as for sardines, pack in tin 
 or glass; cover with sweet oil, adding to each pound can 
 
 Bay leaf, , 
 
 
 
 
 
 /2 
 
 
 Clove, 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Pepper, 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Process tins or glass boxes 
 
 1 as follows: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 One-half pound. 
 
 
 1 
 
 hr. 
 
 40 
 
 min. 
 
 
 One pound. 
 
 
 2 
 
 hours 
 
 
 
 Two pounds, 
 
 
 2 
 
 hrs. 
 
 20 
 
 min. 
 
 
 Cool off the cans with cold water; 
 
 allow the glass 
 
 boxes to 
 
 cool off fifteen minutes in 
 
 the batb. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
144 
 MACKEKELS. 
 
 MACKERELS IN OIL. 
 
 Small mackerel, prepared same as the sardines, fried in oil, 
 etc., are, in the opinion of many connoisseurs, superior to the 
 real genuine sardines. Some manufacturers prefer frying in 
 lard. Whether oil or lard is used, cook slowly, without ac- 
 tually boiling; the fish must remain soft, not be fried hard. 
 
 MACKEEEL IN VINEGAR. 
 
 Large mackerel are put up in vinegar; on account of their 
 thickness they must be slit on the back, with a knife, 1-2 inch 
 deep from head to tail, make six oblique cuts on each side, one 
 inch apart and 1-8 of an inch deep. Cut the head, trim wings and 
 tail. Leave one hour in 18° Beaunie cold salt brine, drain and 
 dry. Fry two minutes in oil same as sardines, the oil must not 
 be too hot. 
 Can in tins or jars, adding to each 
 
 Two slices of lemon, 
 
 Two slices of onions, 
 
 One clove, 
 
 A small bunch of parsley. 
 Dip with half water and half vinegar. 
 
 If desired that the liquid should take into jelly, add to it 
 before sealing a piece of softened isinglass. For high grade 
 goods, dip with white wine instead of vinegar and water. 
 Process: 
 
 Pound, 16 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Two pounds, 30 " " " « 
 
 Three pounds, 45 " " " " 
 
 HERRINGS. 
 
 HERRINGS IN OIL. 
 
 Small herrings in oil are prepared same as the sardines. 
 They can also be prepared with tomato sauce. 
 
145 
 HERRINGS IN VINEGAR. 
 
 Take regular size herrings, prepare them same as the mack- 
 erel, but without cutting on the back or stripping them on the 
 sides with the knife, allow one and one half hour in the brine. 
 
 Spice and brine same as mackerel, adding a small piece of 
 thyme in the can and a little Louisiana Paprica. to the vinegar. 
 
 For high grade use white wine instead of vinegar and no 
 water. 
 
 RUSSIAN HERRINGS. 
 
 Cut heads and pull out the inside, allow ninety minutes in 
 20 per cent brine, and dry by hanging the fishes tail up in the 
 sun or in a hot and ventilated room for one hour. Fry in oil 
 two minutes, the oil must not be too hot; in fact, the herring, 
 must be boiled, not fried, and is to remain white and bright. 
 Drain and can in tins or jars: in each add 
 
 Two slices of lemon without zest, 
 
 Two slices onion, 
 
 A little piece of sage. 
 
 One half bay leaf, 
 
 A little paprica. 
 Dip warm with vinegar or white wine in which has been dis- 
 solved English mustard flour to taste. 
 Process : 
 
 One pound, 8 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Two pounds, 12 " " " " 
 
 Three pounds, 20 " " " « 
 
 FRESH WATER FISHES. 
 
 All fresh water fishes can be canned; however, they are 
 soft, and it is quite difficult to keep them whole. Carp, trout 
 and pike are the best for canning, but they must be perfectly 
 fresh. A fish that has been two days on ice will fall to pieces 
 while processing. 
 
 They require tin cans of the length and as high as the ap- 
 proximate thickness of the fishes. There are two principal ways 
 of preparing: 
 
146 
 
 FISHES IN "COURT BOUILLON." 
 
 Cut the gills and remove with them the interior of the fish, 
 lay twenty-five minutes in 22° Beaume cold salt brine. 
 Prepare the following bouillon: 
 
 Water, 2 gallons 
 
 Vinegar, 1 quart 
 
 Cloves, 10 
 
 Carrots, in slices, 
 
 Onions, in slices, 6 
 
 Cloves of garlic, 3 
 
 Pepper, 
 Salt, 
 
 A bunch of parsley 
 A little thyme 
 Boil slowly for one hour, replacing, at that time, with hot 
 water, the amount lost by evaporation. 
 
 Keep on boiling and lay fish in for one minute, one fish after 
 the other, then can, brine with the bouillon in which the fish has 
 boiled, add to eacli can a small piece of isinglass, seal aiitightly and 
 process : 
 
 Pounds 1 hour at 216 deg. Fahrenheit 
 
 Two pounds 1 hour at 220 deg. Fahrenheit 
 
 Cool off with cold water. 
 
 FISHES IN "MATELOTE." 
 
 Prepare the bouillon, and cut the fishes in three or four equal 
 pieces, boil them one minute and place in cans. 
 
 The bouillon is to be made as follows : 
 
 Melt twelve ounces butter and cook ten minutes on very slow 
 fire with six carrots and six onions, both being sliced. They must 
 cook, but not turn brown, then add 1 gallon red wine and one gal- 
 lon of water, and other spices, as per "Court Bouillon" previously 
 described. 
 
 After the pieces of fish have been boiled in this bouillon for 
 the required time (one minute) keep on boiling the bouillon and 
 thicken with browned flour. Pour hot over the fishes, seal and 
 process same as "Court Bouillon" fishes. 
 
 In the cans, to decorate the fish, mushrooms, small pickled 
 cucumbers and pitted olives may be added. 
 
147 
 LOBSTER. 
 
 Canada actually supplies the whole world. 
 
 The packing of lobster requires more cleanliness and quick 
 action than any other packing. There is but one way to prepare 
 lobster. 
 
 Boil them alive in salt water (3 per cent.), cool promptly in 
 cold salt water (6 per cent.), shell and can in tins or glass jars, 
 cover with a little salt brine, which can be flavored by boiling 
 one-half hour with pepper, bay leaves and cloves. 
 
 Process : 
 
 Tin cans or glass boxes, 2 hours in boiling water. 
 
 The phosphor of the lobster attacks and corrodes the cans, 
 this is practically overcome by lining the cans with parchment 
 paper. The coating of tin of the tinplate is very thin and uneven ; 
 the iron of the can is soon attacked. The iron is more easily at- 
 tacked by the combined chemical action of the phosphor and the 
 salt than the tin is ; this is why after a few months the canned 
 lobster takes the especial, often unpleasant, taste which cannot 
 be otherwise described than "canned lobster taste." Everybody 
 knows this taste, of which we cannot speak without an instinctive 
 and peculiar contraction of the muscles of the face. 
 
 I am not a crank on glass and am sorry to say have no con- 
 trolling interests in any glass house, but I consider it a crime to 
 spoil good things, and it really hurts my feelings of "gourmet" 
 when, peeping into a store, I see piles of what has been line and 
 delicate " lobster," but now "canned lobster." What a change ! 
 
 At some period in old Rome without being a good "chef" no 
 fat state office was obtainable. Brillat Savarin has in the old 
 world rehabilitated the gourmet, has gained back for us the 
 rank which Ave are entitled to in society. Well, in this new world 
 if a census of the "gourmets" was taken, it would not only 
 astound statisticians, but shake up the old routine of lobster 
 packing. ; %::.::<>:^MMi 
 
 "Gourmets" are found in all conditions of life, they are good 
 talkers (they are more numerous in the political career than in 
 any other), they are the most selfish human beings; flatter their 
 palate and you will have returns. Keep on the flattery and they 
 will stand by you. 
 
148 
 
 Those who will eat ''canned lobster" that taste lobster, after 
 the first surprise is over, will have some more, and again as soon 
 as possible. 
 
 '' He wlio sinneth sltall .si/j." 
 
 To make it short, there is no reason why the lobster should be 
 packed in tin cans, the iron of which spoils it, when it can be put 
 up in glass boxes that wdll keep and maintain it plain and real 
 "Lobster." 
 
 In using the Phoenix device of air-tightly sealing, cover the 
 glass box Avith the cap, and seal. Process same as tin cans, no 
 punching nor cooling off being required. 
 
 Some packers prefer boiling the lobster in fresh water and 
 cool them in 18 per cent, salt brine (18 deg. Beaume cold). When 
 packing in tins or jars hot dipping can be made with clear hot 
 brine containing enough isinglass to make it in jelly when cooling 
 off. It improves the appearance, especially when packed in glass. 
 
 SHRIMPS. 
 
 Boil hardly one minute in fresh water, drain, put in wooden 
 buckets with a handful of salt, mix and shell them as soon as cold. 
 
 CANNING IN TINS. 
 
 Place them in a little muslin bag having exactly the shape of 
 the cans used ; when full close the bag and put in the can, which 
 is itself lined with parchment paper. The bag before using should 
 be wetted with 12 per cent, salt biiiie. 
 
 CANNING IN GLASS. 
 
 Put in the jars the shrimps, one next to the other, leaving as 
 little empty space as possible, and seal airtightly. Or cover with 
 3 per cent, hot salt brine containing enough isinglass to make it 
 take into jelly when cold. 
 
 PROCESSING— CANS OR GLASS JARS. 
 
 One-half pints 16 min. at 220 Fahrenheit 
 
 Pints 20 min. at 220 Fahrenheit 
 
 One-half pints 40 min. in boiling water 
 
 Pints 60 min. in boiling water \ 
 
14t) 
 
 While hot, the shrimps are quite soft and should be handled 
 very carefully, this applies as well to the taking out of the blanch- 
 ing water, to the shelling and to the handling of the cans and jars 
 before they have thoroughly cooled off. 
 
 Shrimps' tails should remain whole and of soft pink color. 
 
 CRAWFISH. 
 WHOLE CRAWFISHES. 
 
 Prepare a bouillon same as the "Court Bouillon" described 
 for the preparation of fresh water fishes, but much stronger in 
 spices, especially pepper; it should be 1-2 white wine, 1-2 water, 
 but without butter. Throw in the live crawfishes, of which the 
 intestines have been extracted ; for this take the crawfish in your 
 hand and tear off the wing, which is in the middle of the tail ; it 
 will pull out at the same time a little black intestine, which is very 
 bitter. 
 
 Boil one or two minutes, never more; put in cans or jars, dip 
 with the strained "Court Bouillon" and process : 
 
 Cans or jars : 
 
 Pints 35 min. at 220 Fahrenheit 
 
 Quarts 50 min. at 220 Fahrenheit 
 
 Or, still better, on account of the soft nature of the flesh : 
 Pints 1 hour in plain boiling water 
 
 Quarts 1 1-2 hours in plain boiling water 
 
 Crawfishes should always be packed in glass jars. 
 
 CRAWFISH TAILS. 
 
 As the crawfishes are shelled before packing there is no need 
 to extract the intestines. Throw them alive in bouillon same as 
 described for "whole crawfish," boil two minutes. Shell and pack 
 tightly in glass jars, cover hot with strained bouillon in which they 
 have cooked, seal airtightlj^ and process: 
 
 One-half pints 20 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Pints 30 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Allow to cool off for fifteen minutes before taking out of the 
 processing bath. 
 
 Tin cans cannot be used for these goods. 
 
150 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 Each packer has his own way of handling the oysters, as all 
 is handling- for these goods, and while packed in very small quan- 
 tities in Europe, they are very popular in America. 
 
 Open the oysters, can in tins or jars, cover with the juice, 
 which is previously strained, and seal airtightly. 
 
 Process : 
 
 One-half pints 35 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Pints 55 minutes in boiling water 
 
 Quarts 1 hr. 15 minutes in boiling water 
 
 This product is superior, but the process is slow. 
 
 OTHER METHOD. 
 
 Place the oysters in the truck of the dry steam kettle, steam 
 just enougli to force the shells open, the time required varying 
 with the average size of the oysters. 
 
 Pack the oysters in cans or jars covering with the broth. Seal 
 airtightly. 
 
 Process : 
 
 One-half pints 10 min. at 235 Fahrenheit 
 
 Pints 12 min. at 235 Fahrenheit 
 
 Quarts 15 min. at 235 Fahrenheit 
 
 The cans are to he cooled off loith cold ivater; the glass jars 
 must cool off slowly. 
 
 It is necessar^^ that the oysters should be sound and fresh, and 
 processed immediately after sealing. 
 
 PICKLED OYSTERS. 
 
 Steam fat oysters as if for canning, put in glass jars and cover 
 immediately with hot, boiling, strained brine as follows: 
 
 Prepared vinegar 3 quarts 
 
 White wine 1 quart 
 
151 
 
 Prepared vinegar is made in advance so as to lose no time 
 when the oysters are in the jars. 
 Boil five minutes. 
 
 Vinegar • 2 gallons 
 
 Mace 1-2 oz. 
 
 Nutmeg 1-8 oz. 
 
 Black pepper 1 oz. 
 
 Salt 2 oz. 
 
 Cinnamon 1-8 oz. 
 
 Cloves 1-2 oz. , 
 
 Allow to macerate twenty-four hours, boil live mimites before 
 adding the wine. Seal the jars airtightly. The most appropriate 
 jar to our knowledge is the Phoenix glass cover jar. It has a glass 
 cover which prevents the contact of the brine with the washer. 
 The sealing nuichine closes GOO jars per hour ; tlie sealed jars can 
 then be processed same as usual. 
 
 MUSSELS. 
 
 Mussels are much finer for culinary purposes than oysters; 
 time will come when the demand will be as large as for the oysters. 
 
 Steam same as oysters, but it requires shorter time, one min- 
 ute being sufficient. Take out of the shells, pack in tins or jars, 
 cover with broth and seal airtightly. 
 
 Process : 
 
 One-half pints 35 minutes 
 
 Pints 50 minutes 
 
 Quarts 1 hr. 10 minutes 
 
 Cool ofi* the cans with cold water, allow the glass jars to cool 
 off slowly. 
 
 In Europe, when canning, the white mussels are put in sepa- 
 rate cans and are considered first choice, the yellow put up sepa- 
 rately as second choice. 
 
 They can be processed at 235*^ same as the oysters, but they 
 shrink more than when processed in plain boiling water. 
 
 Mussels must be fresh and processed as soon as sealed. 
 
 PICKLED MUSSELS. 
 
 Pickled mussels are prepared same as pickled oysters. 
 
152 
 MILK. 
 
 Preserving milk has caused not only great deceptions, but also 
 great financial losses to many enterprising preservers who had en- 
 gaged in extensive canning or bottling Avithout sufficient knowl- 
 edge of the nature of the milk and the causes of its decomposition. 
 In the milk sold by the retailers, we find most every variety of 
 micro-organism represented, and the milk owing to its com])osition 
 is such a good culture medium and so favorable to nearly all, tha'' 
 notwithstanding the fact that it can be sterilized in the labora- 
 tory, it is not practical and cannot be done at a business point of 
 view. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
 
 The milk is composed of water, fat, proteids, sugar and min- 
 eral matters. 
 
 The fat representing about 4 per cent., the proteids 4 per cent., 
 the sugar 4 1-2 per cent. These three natures of products, as a 
 whole, seem to realize all the desiderata of the best field for the 
 development of the bacteria. 
 
 The milk secreted of the nursing mammals is nearly at blood 
 temperature, this is to say the most appropriate temperature for 
 the growth of the germs ; it should, therefore, be cooled quickly by 
 placing the cans in cold running water. As soon as cold it should 
 be bottled, sealed and processed. 
 
 MILK AND BACTERIA. 
 
 The organisms attacking the milk are mostly brought in by 
 the air, then, the less contact with air the better ; for Ihis reason 
 only the bottling and sealing should be made in the shortest time 
 possible after the milk has been cooled. 
 
 The fat to which the color of the milk is for the greatest part 
 due is in globules which seem to be surrounded by a membrane, 
 as they do not coalesce spontaneously; this fat is mostly composed 
 of stearin and olein. 
 
 Centrifugal motion separates all the fat from the milk ; should 
 sterilized milk be beaten, the fat it contains would separate; for 
 this reason an especial device for sealing the jars had to be con- 
 structed ; the jar must be and remain absolutely full, so as, even 
 should the jar itself be shaken, its contents will remain undis- 
 turbed. 
 
153 
 
 The proteids are the casein, the albumen and a very small 
 quantity of globulin. The two former are in a peculiar state, the 
 casein is gelatinous and in sohition, it is precipitated by acids. The 
 lactic acid produced by the action of the lacti acidi bacilli causes 
 this coagulation, in which case the globules of fat are enclosed in 
 the casein. 
 
 The albumen contained in the milk is also of an especial form 
 and is called lactalbumine ; it is coagulated by heat. 
 
 The sugar of the milk is designated under the name of lactose 
 and is able of jilcoholic fermentation s:ime as beet or fruit sugar. 
 In some parts of Russia, alcoholic beverages are prepared by fer- 
 menting milk. However, it is not the great fungus that interferes 
 with the preserving of the milk, as it is rather difficult to produce 
 the required conditions to allow the saccharomyces to have a foot- 
 hold before the butyric ferments start their work. 
 
 The lacti acidi bacteria and the bacilli prodigiosi are generally 
 the first to attack the milk, decomposing the lactose into lactic 
 acid, which causes the coagulation of the casein. 
 
 The bacteria groAv best at a temperature of 85 deg. or about, 
 this is the reason why the milk should be cooled off promptly and 
 kept cold until processed, Their spores are hard to kill and some 
 experts affirm that 250 deg. are not sufficient for their destruction, 
 it is then essential that the milk should be bottled and sealed as 
 promptly as possible as to shorten as much as possible the contact 
 with air which brings in all the germs. 
 
 If a certain proportion of salt or sugar were added to the milk, 
 we would not mind these spores, as the antiseptic qualities of these 
 would prevent these dry form to sprout, but such is not the case, 
 pure and natural milk must be bottled. 
 
 Both the lacti acidi and the prodigiosi bacillus are aerobic, 
 but after they have sprouted and are adults they continue to grow, 
 even in anaerobic state, for this reason the jar we will use will not 
 only be airtight, but not contain a particle of air so as to prevent 
 the germination of the dry forms should there be in the jar. 
 
 Great cleanliness must prevail as to avoid the introduction in 
 the milk of putrid ferments such as the bacillus butyricus, amyglo- 
 bacter, cyanogenus, etc., which being anaerobic, would develope in 
 the jars still better than if air was enclosed, besides they are very 
 resisting to the action of heat. 
 
154 
 SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION OF THE JARS OR BOTTLES. 
 
 The jar constructed by the Phoenix Cap Company of New 
 York fulfills theoretically all the requirements here above stated 
 ^nd its practicability seems to be guaranteed by its simplicity. 
 
 STERLIZING MILK. 
 
 The jar (Fig. 23) is filled with the cooled milk up to the very 
 top, the cap is placed over and the sealing is done by a machine. 
 This cap is composed of a cover of pure tin 
 having a hole in its center, this hole project- 
 ing on the exterior. When the jar is sealed 
 by a vertical pressure of about 1,000 pounds 
 on the superior flange of the metal ring, the 
 Fig. 23. rubbcr finds itself heavilj^ compressed between 
 
 four walls (Fig. 24), the setting of the lowest part of the metal 
 ring over the neck of the jar causing it to remain compressed 
 after the jar is released from the action of the machine. 
 
 The jar would then be airtightly sealed if 
 not for the projecting hole in its center. The 
 bottle is placed in the processing retort with 
 water reaching its neck and heated gradually 
 until it reaches boiling, the water of the bath 
 has expanded by heat and it now coAers the jar. 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 The action inside the jar has been as follows : 
 
 The milk has been gradually- heated and the air it contained 
 in dissolution, not being soluble in hot milk, is set free, it ac- 
 <;umulates on the top of the jar and by the expansion of the milk 
 by the action of the heat this air, as Avell as the air 
 we had enclosed in the jar, under the cap, is ex- 
 pelled. Should the liquid expand further, some 
 of the milk will escape through the hole (Fig. 
 25). At this time the milk has nearly expanded 
 as much as it ever will, by the means of pinchers 
 the projecting hole of the pure maleable tin cov- 
 er is sealed, tliis piiicliiiig sealing more airtightly 
 than soldering would (Fig. 20). 
 
 Fio. 25. 
 
155 
 
 The cover of the processing kettle is then lowered bolted 
 
 tight and the jars processed for hour at 245 dcg. Fahrenheit. 
 
 Let US follow the jar in the 
 retort. Its contents will fur- 
 ther, but little, expand, the 
 malleable metal cover will 
 give and allow for this in- 
 crease of volume, the jar still 
 appears, as per Fig, 26. Dur- 
 ing the processing there is no 
 strain on the cap, the exterior 
 pressure on the jar being in 
 rucl superior to the inside 
 ])ressure. After the required 
 length of time, lower slowly 
 and progressively the pres- 
 sure, then shut off the steam altogether and open the cover. Fif- 
 teen minutes are required to progressively lower the temperature. 
 
 The milk, not having been actually boiled and no evaporation 
 having taken the place, there is no or very little skim in the jar. 
 
 In cooling off, the milk will contract, its 
 level will only be 1-4 or 1-3 of an inch lower 
 than tlK' top of tlie jar, the malleable cover 
 from convex during the processing under the 
 inside pressure will turn concave under the 
 atmospheric pressure, and leave no vacuum, 
 ^'**- ^'' the jar may be shaken, its contents will re- 
 
 main undisturbed (Fig. 27). 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 PTOMAINES IN MILK. 
 
 If the milk is a good culture medium for the bacteria in gen- 
 eral, it being an animal secretior^ causes it to be an especially good 
 field for the pathogenic bacteria ((disease microbes), these by 
 their action on animal and vegetable tissues produce alkaloids 
 which are deadly poison to man and beast. Putrefactive fer- 
 ments produce different results owing to the nature 
 of the albuminoids of the product they attack. The various path- 
 ogenic bacteria are found in very large quantities in the stables 
 
156 
 
 and the manure, therefore, all the efforts of the milk preserver 
 will tend to quick work as to avoid exposure of the milk to con- 
 taminated air for more llian the strictly required and unavoidable 
 length of time. 
 
 Perfect cleanliness, quick cooling off and prompt processing 
 are the guarantee of success. 
 
 Should any of these bacteria be enclosed in the jar, and this 
 is often unavoidable, the use of the above described Phoenix de- 
 vice will tend to evacuate these and create a condition the most 
 unfavorable possible to the germination of the spores the heat 
 may not have destroyed. 
 
 The most common pathogenic organisms found in milk are the 
 diptheria, typhoid and the tetanus baciUus, while the anthrax, 
 the coma or cholera, the scarlet fever and other pathogenic ba- 
 cillus are not often found unless the organism of the animals 
 secreting the milk are themselves attacked by any of these deadly 
 diseases. 
 
 Let us examine the action of the processing in the described 
 jars for the various and most common of these micro-organisms. 
 
 TYPHOID BACTEKIA. 
 
 The typhoid bacillus develops best in an aerobic state, quick 
 bottling will place the milk in an anaerobic condition, and should 
 some spores sprout, experience proves that when the typhoid bac- 
 teria is in an anaerobic state it is much easier killed by heat than 
 if it should be in an aerobic state, the conditions are then the 
 most favorable for their destruction. 
 
 This bacteria can only develop in a slightly acid culture, 
 therefore, it will not develop in the milk before lactic acid or 
 butyric acid bacillus start their work ; quick action will not allow 
 these to act and make the milk acid. 
 
 The ptomaine produced by the typhoid bacteria is known as 
 typhotoxin, it is an acid and not an alkaloid. 
 
 DIPHTHERIA BACTERIA. 
 
 There are several varieties, but all having about the same 
 characteristics, these bacillus grow best in an aerobic state, and 
 what we said in reference to the typhoid bacillus will apply in 
 this case. 
 
 The poison produced in an alkaloid very similar to strichnine 
 and is neutralized by acids. 
 
]57 
 
 TETANUS BACILLUS. 
 
 These bacteria are in great numbers in the stables, they de- 
 velop rapidly at blood temperature, milk being extremely favor- 
 able to their growth. 
 
 The tetanus bacilhis are positively anaerobic, but under 
 ordinary circumstances they grow slowly, as they only develop 
 in the presence of lactic or butyric acid germs, and these by the 
 great strength of their growth interfere at the end with large de- 
 velopment of the tetanus. The construction of the jars described 
 here before creating an anerobic state this bacillus would find the 
 required condition for its growth which is averted by preserving 
 the milk before the lactic or butyric acid producing bacillus 
 have developed, under such conditions the tetanus have no chance 
 to produce ptomaines. 
 
 Great care has also to be taken in milking as to avoid blood 
 or puscells from the animal to be driven into the milk, these 
 cells are often conveyors of pathogenic bacteria, especially of the 
 tetanus. 
 
 The action of the tetanus bacteria is called lockjaw when it 
 takes development into the human body. 
 
 CONTAMINATED MILK. 
 
 The milk of contaminated animals must not be used either 
 for preserving or otherwise, and these animals should be killed 
 and their body incinerated. If the milk of these animals is pre- 
 served, the bacteria having infested the milk at the time of its se- 
 cretion, these have found their way into the globules of fat and 
 particles of proteids with which they got intimately associated 
 and are therefore much more difficult to destroy than if they had 
 been deposited on the surface of the liquid by the air. In case of 
 their presence in the animal, they have had, under blood heat, 
 time to swell and are ready for action, if not already in action at 
 the time of the milking. Bacteria deposited by the air being in 
 their dry form require proper temperature to swell and sprout 
 rapidly. 
 
 In the case of milk from contaminated animals, all the 
 ptomaines formed before the processing will remain, and, in fact, 
 be preserved with the milk; they are and remain poison whether 
 preserved or not, and may cause death if absorbed. 
 
158 
 
 CANNING OF MEATS. 
 
 BOILED BEEF. 
 
 Rub the pieces of meat with salt and sugar, 5 lbs. salt, 1 lb. 
 sugar. Twelve hours later renew the rubbing, using each time 
 about 5 lbs. of the mixture for each 100 lbs. of beef. Tie up with 
 twine the pieces of meat and j>lace them in the boiling kettle and 
 cover them with the brine from the previous salting, and enough 
 bouillon made by slow boiling for six hours of low grade meats 
 and the bones. Maintain the temperature at 210 to 212 without 
 actual boiling for 2 1-2 hours. 
 
 Cut the meat in pieces of proper size for the cans, fill with 
 bouillon made by concentrating the bouillon of the cooking. A 
 few calves feet should be added to help this bouillon taking into 
 jelly, ( Isinglass may also be added. ) During the cooking great 
 care should be taken to properly skim the foam. 
 
 Proper flavoring is obtained by boiling with the meat a bag; 
 containing for each 100 lbs. of meat 
 
 Bay Leaves V 1-3 oz. 
 
 Pepper 1 oz. 
 
 Mace 1-4 oz. 
 
 Grated Nutmeg \ 1-8 oz. 
 
 Process : 
 
 1 lb. cans 1 hour 20 minutes at 235 deg. 
 
 2 lb. cans 2 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 3 lb. cans 2 hours 30 minutes at 235 deg. 
 
 Boiled beef is extensively put up for the supply of the Euro- 
 pean armies. 
 
 CORNED BEEF CURING AND CANNING. 
 
 Rub the boned pieces of fresh meat with salting mixture pre- 
 pared as follows: 
 
 Coarse salt 10 lbs. 
 
 Sugar 3 lbs. 
 
 Saltpetre 1-3 lb. 
 
159 
 
 Place ill barrels with a weight over to press, leaving ten days, 
 in a cool place, during which time, at intervals of two days the 
 meat must be placed in another position, after which always re- 
 place weight; after this time take out the meat, wash it gently, 
 clean the barrel and put in sufficient quantity of brine, made as 
 follows : 
 
 Water 10 galls. 
 
 Salt 20 lbs. 
 
 Sugar 15 lbs. 
 Saltpeter 5 lbs. 
 
 Spices 
 
 Boil slowly three-quarters of an hour, stirring until sugar 
 and salt are entireh^ dissolved, then put in the barrel, straining 
 through a sieve to separate the spices. These spices are for ten 
 gallons of brine as follows : 
 
 Pepper 1 oz. 
 
 Coriander 
 
 Nutmeg 
 
 Cloves 
 
 Mace 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Sage 
 
 Bay Leaves 1-2 oz. 
 
 Place the beef in the brine when cold, and, from eight to 
 twelve days later, according to the size of the pieces of meat, they 
 will be sufficiently cured. 
 
 To cook the beef put it in a large kettle, enameled, if possible, 
 cover with cold water, bring slowly to a boil and maintain a very 
 slow boiling for one hour, cut in pieces of proper size for the cans, 
 pack and cover with hot juice composed of 
 
 1-2 bouillon in which the beef has been boiled, 
 1-2 bouillon of calfs foot. 
 
 adding to it the juice produced by the first salting, the latter having 
 been submitted to a short boiling and flavored with laurel, cloves and 
 a little nutmeg. This juice will later take into jelly. 
 
 1-2 
 
 oz. 
 
 1-4 
 
 oz. 
 
 1-2 
 
 oz, 
 
 1-2 
 
 oz. 
 
 1-2 
 
 oz. 
 
 1-2 
 
 oz. 
 
I(i0 
 
 PROCESSING. 
 
 The packing is either made iu tin cans or glass jars, sealed 
 airtightly while still hot and processed immediately at 236 Fah- 
 renheit. 
 
 One pound 1 hr. 10 min. 
 
 Two pound 1 hr, 40 min. 
 
 Three pound 2 hr. 1 min. 
 
 The processing is the same for either the cans or the glass 
 jars, no punching or exhausting of air being required. 
 
 BEEF BRAISE. 
 
 Out the beef in pieces of about two and one-quarter pounds 
 each, rub with salt prepared as follows : 
 
 Salt 10 lbs. 
 
 Ground pepper 1 oz. 
 
 put in barrels without any brine and next morning rub them 
 again, placing them back into the barrel. The next days they are 
 sufficiently dry and cured. 
 
 Brown the pieces of beef on each side in a kettle on a lively 
 fire, same as for preparing a roast. It must be done quickly as 
 to brown the outer part leaving the inside rare. However, the 
 meat must not be allowed to burn neither should the small quantity 
 of melted grease in the kettle. As f^con as it is well browned put in 
 a kettle, covering with boiled beef bouillon, to which the juice 
 produced by the salting has been added. There must be sufficient 
 quantity of bouillon to totally cover the ineat. Boil one hour 
 very slowly so as not to break the pieces of meat. The kettle is 
 also to contain a bag for each 5 lbs. meat ; 2 garrots, 1 clove of 
 garlic, pepper and spices. Should the pieces be veiy large, say 
 five to six pounds, this time should be doubled. 
 
 Cut in pieces of proper size to fit the cans or jars, and fill 
 these tightly; cover while still hot with very strong jelly made 
 with part of the bouillon in which the beef has boiled and which 
 has been slowly boiled for six hours with a few calves feet. 
 
 Seal airtightly and process : 
 
 One pound 1.10 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pounds 1.50 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 Three pounds 2.20 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 The jelly should be strained through a muslin before used. 
 
IGl 
 BEEF A LA MODE. 
 
 Beef a la mode is generally prepared by merely packing 
 boiled beef used to prepare the bouillon and coyered with a 
 sauce made of bouillon, beef braise bouillon, roast beef gravy ; it 
 is made consistent with browned flour. Tlie article being gener- 
 ally inferior in quality and of low price, there is little of real beef 
 a la mode put up. 
 
 The beef a la mode is, in fact, nothing else but beef braise, 
 but instead of coyering with yery strong jelly, coyer with the 
 bouillon in which it has been boiled, making it consistent by ad- 
 dition of browned flour. , 
 
 The cans should contain a larger proportion of sauce than 
 the braised beef ; processing is also the same. 
 
 ENGLISH BOAST BEEF. 
 
 Proceed as for ordinary eyery day roast beef, but cook very 
 rare, in other words, take oft' the fire when half cooked, cut in 
 pieces to suit the cans or jars used, but in such a waj that each 
 can will hold rare and well done. Pack the well done on top, cover 
 with very little gravy to fill up the empty spaces, but it should be 
 well spiced. 
 Process : 
 
 One pound 1.35 at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pounds 2.10 at 235 deg. 
 
 Three pounds 2.30 at 235 deg. 
 
 There has been great discussion about "embalmed beef." We 
 
 will dispense of giving the various formulas (,f the chemicals used; 
 
 adding them to the meat is an unnecessary and unappreciated 
 
 luxury. 
 
 STEAKS. 
 
 / 
 
 Prepare same as braised beef; rub the pieces with melted 
 grease, then cook rare in the frying kettle, same as if or immediate 
 use. Cut in pieces, can, cover with the juice or gravy of the 
 cooking. Seal and process. 
 
 One pound cans 1 hr. 20 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pound cans 2 hr 10 min.at 235 deg. 
 
162 
 BEEF TONGUES. 
 
 La}' on the botom of the wooden or stone tank 1-2 inch of salt 
 mixture, lay the tongues on it, pressed one against the other, cover 
 with a layer of salt mixture, another row of tongues, and so forth. 
 Keep the whole pressed down by a plank of wood of proper width, 
 on which place a stone or weight of about 30 pounds, and turn 
 over every da^'. Four days later the tongues are salted enough, 
 take them out and hang them to dry. 
 
 The salting mixture should be composed as follows: 
 
 Salt 50 lbs. 
 
 Sugar 10 lbs. 
 
 Saltpetre 5 lbs. 
 
 When ready for canning wash the tongues and let them soak 
 a few hours in cold water; remove their skin and cook them 1 1-2 
 hours in water containing a bag holding for, say, 100 quarts of water 
 1-2 pound of mixed spices. 
 
 These spices should be prepared as follows : 
 
 Cloves 1 1-2 lbs. 
 
 Coriander 1 1-2 lbs. 
 
 Nutmeg 3-4 lb. 
 
 Mace 1 lb. 
 
 Bay leaves 2 lbs. 
 
 Sage 2 lbs. 
 
 Marjoram , 2 lbs. 
 
 Thyme 11-4 lbs. 
 
 Juniper 1 1-2 lbs. 
 
 Caraway I lb. 
 
 CANNING IN TIN OR GLASS BOXES. 
 
 After proper cooking, lay the tongues rolled up in tin or glass 
 boxes of proper size, placing on top of each a round piece of wood, 
 to keep them pressed down until cooled off. 
 
 Process as follows, tin or glass : 
 
 Large tongues 3 hr. 15 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Medium 2 hr. at 235 deg. 
 
 Small tongues 1 hr. 15 min. at 235 deg. 
 
163 
 
 SMOKED TONGUES. 
 
 Smoked tongues are often canned; they should be prepared 
 in the same manner as explained here above, but, after the 60 
 hours salting, they should be allowed to remain four days in the 
 smoking-room. When canning, soak for 24 hours in water, then 
 boil and can as ordinary tongues. 
 
 HONEYCOMB TRIPE, "A LA MODE DE CAEN." 
 
 The tripes are delivered to the manufacturer ready to be- 
 cooked ; they should be perfectly white and clean. 
 
 jThe old process is to place the tripes, the feet and all the- 
 necessary aromates, in large earthenware receptacles, place a cast 
 iron disk to keep the tripes in the liquid and cover the whole with 
 sheets of j)aper pasted with starch paste to the side of the turine 
 and forming a tight closure to the receptacle. The paper is then 
 greased with a brush and melted fat. 
 
 The earthenware receptacles are placed in a baker's oven and 
 baked for 8 to 10 hours over night, and then the tripes, with their 
 juice, are canned. 
 
 In the modern factories large flat bottom kettles are used;, 
 they have a double bottom for steam heat and are made of either 
 cast or sheet iron enameled on the inside. A heavy cast iron- 
 cover takes the place of the paper cover. 
 
 The "Tripes a la mode de Caen" q,re prepared as follows : 
 
 Clean in running water the tripes of fresh killed ox, then! 
 wash and scrape them in lukewarm water, and when perfectly 
 clean allow to remain until night in cold, clear running water.. 
 The four feet should also be scalded, scraped and cleaned. Cut 
 the tripes in pieces about 4x4 and place them in the kettle, being, 
 careful to have one of the feet on the bottom, two in the middle' 
 and the other on top; each foot must be cut in two lengthwise. 
 Salt proportionally of 3 pounds of salt to 100 pounds tripe. Flavor 
 with a bunch of parsley well tied up, 2 pounds onions cut in halves 
 and 1 1-2 pounds sliced carrots. The spices : pepper, thyme, laurel 
 and cloves, must be enclosed in a fine muslin bag. 
 
 Do not use any grease but 1 1-2 pounds of fine fresh butter; 
 add 1 pint of water, place on the tripes a cast iron or sheet iron 
 disk of a little less than the diameter of the kettle, close with the 
 
104 
 
 cover of the kettle and turn the steam on and maintain a very 
 slow boilinu for (S hours. (See steam iron kettle, tig. 10.) 
 
 Can in tins or glass jars while hot, and, not putting any car- 
 rots or onions in the cans, divide the sauce equally among the 
 cans; the sauce must be constantly stirred while filling the cans 
 in order to well distribute the fat that floats on top of the same. 
 
 Each can is also to contain a small piece of the meat of the 
 feet. 
 
 Process : 
 
 One pound cans 1 1-2 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pound cans 2 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 Three pound cans 2 1-4 hours at 235 deg. 
 
 The labels should bear instruction to the consumer: to heat 
 
 in boiling the can, pour the contents in a hot dish, and eat on 
 
 hot plates. 
 
 ROAST VEAL. 
 
 Leave the pieces whole, placing them on roasting pans which 
 have previously been greased, and pour a little water to cover 
 the bottom of the pan ; the oven must be hot; place the pans in it, 
 allowing the meat to take color; once in a while with a large 
 spoon take the juice and pour it over the pieces of meat ; in 50 
 minutes the largest pieces will be cooked enough; cut in pieces 
 of proper size to fill the cans and cover with jelly made by boiling 
 the bones and two veal's feet, and to which has been added the 
 gravy of the roasting. Be sure the jelly is properly salted and of 
 clear color, if not, it should be filtered hot through a fiannel filter, 
 same as used for clarifying sugar syrup. 
 
 Process : 
 
 One pound cans 1 hr. 10 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pound cans 1 hr. 50 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Always place a few carrots and one onion in each roasting 
 pan. The roasting can be made in a steam kettle. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut the bone short as it would be in the wav for canning; 
 roast the cutlets in a frying pan, which must contain very little j 
 grease, 2 or 3 spoonfuls only, and be hot. Cook both sides; the' 
 
165 
 
 cutlets must take uice roast color, but do not actually cook the 
 meat. Can in tins or glass dishes, cover with strong, hot jelly, 
 seal airtightly, and process : 
 
 One-quarter pound 2 hr. 10 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 One pound 1 hr. 20 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Two pounds 1 hr. at 235 deg. 
 
 If tin cans are used they should be flat in shape. 
 
 ROAST PORK. 
 
 Place the fresh ham on roasting pans Avhich have previously 
 been greased with lard and operate same as has been described 
 for roast veal. The same processing should also be given. 
 
 Instead of carrots place one or two small turnips in each 
 frying pan. 
 
 Pork shoulders instead of ham also give a fine roast, they 
 should be rolled up the shape of the cans before roasting. A little 
 flavoring by spices, same as given for "beef tongues," will be of 
 advantage. 
 
 A little vinegar can be added to the jelly used for filling the 
 cans. 
 
 PORK CHOPS. 
 
 Prepare same as veal cutlets, but flavoring more by using in- 
 stead of pepper a mixture of spices, described under the title: "espe- 
 cial spices for meats." 
 
 SAUSAGES— LORRAINE SAUSAGES 
 
 In the genuine only pork meat is used; in the domestic 2-3 
 pork, 1-3 beef. 
 
 Hash together : 
 
 Meat 100 lbs. 
 
 Pat Bacon 25 lbs. 
 
 Saltpetre 2 ozs. 
 
 Crystallized sugar 2 ozs. 
 
 Salt 3 lbs. 
 
 Especial spices for meats 2 ozs. 
 After the meat is hashed add 4 ozs. whole black pepper and 
 
]6C) 
 
 mix well ; allow the sausages to dry for 2 or 3 days in an aerated 
 room and smoke them for a few hours only, they must be very 
 lightly smoked. 
 
 When canning soak them first in cold Avater for one hour, 
 then heat slowly so as to swell them progressively, leave 1-2 hour 
 in the slow" boiling water and can standing up in cans of proper 
 height, (jover with melted lard for European market; meat jelly 
 for American trade. Seal and process : 
 
 Two pound cans 1 hr. 30 min. at 228 deg. 
 
 Three pound cans 1 hr. 45 min. at 228 deg. 
 
 Do not process at higher temperature, as it would melt the 
 fat of the sausaf^es too much. 
 
 SALA]MI. 
 
 There is no standard quality, the highest grade is made of 
 pure pork, the cheapest (in Europe) is made of horse flesh, and 
 in this case the jjroportion of pepper and saltpetre is increased 
 33 per cent. 
 
 A good receipt is the following — chop fine : 
 I'^'resh pork meat 
 Beef 
 Then crush in a mortar, adding: 
 
 Salt 
 
 Saltpetre 
 
 Especial meat spices 
 Pepper (whole) 
 ' Strong California white wine 
 
 Store in the ice box for two days, then add : 
 
 Wine 
 
 Crushed garlic 
 Salted bacon, 12 lbs., cut in cubes 1-2 x 1-2 in. 
 Hang the sausages to dry in well aerated place for 6 to 8 
 weeks. 
 
 75 
 
 lbs. 
 
 25 
 
 lbs. 
 
 3 1-4 
 
 lbs. 
 
 21-2 
 
 ozs. 
 
 2 
 
 ozs. 
 
 12 
 
 ozs. 
 
 1-2 
 
 gal. 
 
 1 
 
 qt. 
 
 1-4 lb. 
 
 "LYON" SAUSAGE. 
 
 Many different grades and qualities are on the market, the 
 genuine being prepared as follows : 
 
 Macerate one day 100 pounds of pork flesh with 
 
167 
 
 Salt 4 lbs. 
 
 Sugar 1-4 lb. 
 
 Pepper 1 oz. 
 
 Then chop and crush, adding 1 1-2 ozs. garlic and 14 lbs. of 
 fresh salted fat bacon cut in cubes 1-2 x 1-2 in., whole pepper 2 ozs. 
 fThese sausages require three months to be properly dried. 
 Those made with beef flesh are sufflcienth^ dried in 6 to 8 weeks. 
 They are prepared as follows : 
 
 Chop and crush, then add fat salted bacon cut in cubes 13 lbs. 
 Ground pepper 1-3 lbs. 
 
 Sugar 10 oz. 
 
 Saltpetre 1 1-4 oz. 
 
 Salt 3 lbs. 
 
 Cloves 1-4 oz. 
 
 When thoroughly crushed and mixed add 5 oz. whole pepper. 
 
 ESPECIAL SPICES FOR MEATS. 
 
 Dry the spices in a temperate oven, then grind them as fine 
 as possible, and keep in tightly closed boxes or glass jars. 
 
 White pepper 
 
 2 
 
 1-2 lbs 
 
 Dried red pepper 
 
 12 
 
 oz. 
 
 Cayenne pepper 
 
 
 1-3 oz. 
 
 Dried yellow peppers 
 
 3 
 
 oz. 
 
 Hungarian paprika 
 
 4 
 
 oz. 
 
 Nutmeg 
 
 3 
 
 oz. 
 
 ^lace 
 
 4 
 
 oz. 
 
 Bay leaves 
 
 4 
 
 oz. 
 
 Cinnamon 
 
 3 
 
 oz. 
 
 Cloves 
 
 3 
 
 oz. 
 
 Coriander 
 
 2 
 
 oz. 
 
 Basil (basilic) 
 
 1 
 
 oz. 
 
 East Indian Curry 
 
 2 
 
 oz. 
 
 Savory 
 
 2 
 
 oz. 
 
 Marjoram 
 
 1 
 
 1-2 oz. 
 
 Sage 
 
 1 
 
 oz. 
 
 Rosemarv 
 
 1 
 
 oz. 
 
 This mixture is one of the most perfect and is used by 
 manufacturers of ^'Pates de foies gi-as" (goose liver pates) in 
 the East of France. It answers all the requirements for all 
 meats in general from beef to fowl and game. 
 
108 
 PREPARED SALT. 
 
 The best packers in Europe sell in sealed packages (glass) 
 prepared salt containing exactly the proportion of pepper and 
 spices required for every day's use in the family. It is pre- 
 pared by mixing thoroughly 5 lbs. fine salt, 4 oz. of above de- 
 scribed spices. This mixture is also the most convenient for 
 the packer and allows to flavor properly by merely putting in 
 the goods the required quantity of salt. 
 
 SLICED MEATS IN GLASS JARS. 
 
 Sliced bacon, ham and dried beef are extensively put up 
 in various kinds of glass receptacles. We will only describe 
 the Phoenix jar, which we consider fulfills all the requirements 
 for this line of goods and besides its own merits, possesses all 
 those offered by the other packages actually in use. 
 
 jThere are two essential points for the closure: 
 
 First. It must allow the exhaustion of the air. 
 
 Second. It must retain the vacuum created. 
 
 It must allow, the exhaustion of the air because the meats that 
 are placed in the jar contain enough salt and saltpetre to insuie their 
 keeping by the natural antiseptic strength of these two named pro- 
 ducts. 
 
 If air was inclosed in the jar, this imprisoned air would 
 spoil; it would actually rot and cause the meat to mold and 
 decay. 
 
 It must retain the vacuum, because, should it alloAv air to 
 get into the jar again, this air would with itself bring ferments 
 into the jar. The air enclosed in the jar would, same as in 
 previous case, decompose and rot and cause the spoiling of the 
 meat. 
 
 The jar has a peculiar finish of the neck 
 (fig. 28) and the closing device is composed 
 of a rubber ring and a metal cap, the latter 
 decomposing itself in two, the cover and the 
 baud (fig. 30). 
 
 The caver is encased into the ring forming a 
 solid whole (fig. 29.) F'«. 28- 
 
169 
 
 In order to operate the closure, place the filled jars on traya 
 of one or t^YO dozen, place one rubber ring on each jar and then 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 Fig. 32 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 
 the caps (cover with its metal band around), then place a cover on 
 the tray, this cover having flat steel springs, exercising a gentle 
 pressure on the cover of each jar (fig. 31). 
 
 Place the trays in the vacuum tank or closet, put the pumps 
 in motion and when the required vacuum is attained, open the 
 valves and allow the air into the retort or closet. The atmos- 
 pheric pressure, guided by the spring of the cover and acting on 
 the covers of the jars will cause the caps to adhere firmly on the 
 jars and actually make an airtight closure. 
 
 The jars are then submitted to the action of the Phoenix 
 capping machine. 
 
 The rubber ring is already compressed by the atmospheric 
 pressure on the cover, the machine will add to this, 600 pounds 
 pressure, and while this pressure is applied, the setting rollers of 
 the machine will turn over the rim of the jar the lowest part of 
 the band of the cap. The rubber ring is enclosed between tlie cov- 
 
170 
 
 er on two sides and the glass on the two others ; it is maintained 
 under the high pressure under which the sealing was made and it 
 will remain so until the consumer releases it by removing the 
 ring of the cap. (fig. 32). 
 
 The rubber ring may expand, may shrink, may turn hard ; it 
 is maintained under the pressure, set, the vacuum will always 
 hold and the goods are safe. 
 
 PORK TONGUES. 
 
 Rub the tongues Avith salt prepared same as used for beef 
 tongues and lay the tongues side by side in a vat and keep them 
 under pressure by the means of boards of wood and a stone. 
 Every two days turn them over adding a small quantity of the 
 same prepared salt and in about twelve days the tongues are 
 salted enough. After being washed and cooked same as beef 
 tongues they are ready to be packed in tins or glass jars of proper 
 size. 
 
 Process 1 lb. cans or jars 1 hr. 20 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 Process 2 lb. cans or jars 2 hrs. 10 min. at 235 deg. 
 
 ROAST MUTTON. 
 
 Remove all the skins and bones of the legs, breast and shoul- 
 ders. The breast should be rolled up and tied with twine. Make 
 a strong bouillon with the bones, skins, the neck and other un- 
 employed parts of the mutton, this bouillon added to the gravy 
 produced by the roasting will be used to fill the cans after a piece 
 of roast has been placed in each. 
 
 Roast the mutton slowly so as to cook the inside, that must 
 not remain rare. The roasting can either be made in an oven 
 in roasting pans or in kettles on direct Are, flavor the meat by 
 salting it with prepared salt (see index "Prepared Salt) and add- 
 ing a few cloves of garlic to the bones when preparing the bouil- 
 lon. This bouillon must be very strong, which is easily obtain- 
 able, as in fact very little of it being required, the cans being 
 nearly full of meat. 
 
 Process : 
 
 1 lb. 1 hr. 40 min. at 235° 
 
 2 lbs. 2 hr. 
 
 3 lbs. 2 hr. 20 min. " 
 
171 
 MUTTON TONGUES. 
 
 Rub the tongues with a mixture of salt, sugar and saltpetre 
 same as beef tongues and lay them side by side in a vat with a 
 weight to keep them pressed. Every two days turn them over, 
 with an occasional addition of the salt mixture. After ten days 
 remove them to another vat and cover with brine : 
 
 Water 25 gallons. 
 
 Salt 90 lbs. 
 
 Saltpetre 9 " 
 
 Sugar 20 '' 
 
 Fdt on fire and keep boiling with a muslin bag containing: 
 Juniper Berries 1 oz. 
 
 Mace 1 
 
 Coriander 1 
 
 Bay leaves 1 
 
 Sage . . . 1-2 
 
 Thyme 1-2 
 
 Cloves 1 
 
 1-2 grated nutmeg. 
 When cold pour over the tongues. Two weeks later the 
 tongues are cured. Hang them to dry. When ready to pack 
 soak them a day in cold water. Cook and can same as beef 
 tongues and process same as pork tongues. 
 
 IRISH STEW. 
 
 Irish stew is prepared in the regular way, this is to say, cut 
 the meat in pieces and boil in a kettle with just enough water to 
 cover the meat. Add the usual flavoring, a bunch of parsley, 
 sliced onions and enough prepared salt to make it palatable. 
 Boil quarter of an hour during which nearly half of the water 
 must have evaporated. Can the meat, covering with the bouillon. 
 Seal airtightly and process : 
 
 1 lb. cans 1 hr. 20 min. at 238° 
 
 2 lb. cans 2 hrs. at 238° 
 
 3 lb. cans 2 hrs. 15 min. at 240° 
 
 FRENCH STEW. 
 Take shoulders of mutton only, cut in pieces same as for 
 
172 
 
 Irish Stew and let them take color in a kettle containing a little 
 grease (melted beef, veal or pork fat). The fire must be lively 
 and the grease hot when the meat is placed in. In fifteen min- 
 utes the meat must be fairly roasted. Can the meat and 
 cover with sauce prepared as follows: Add to the kettle in 
 which the grease has remained 10 oz. of flour for each 
 pound of grease, or about — leave on the fire, stirring with a wood- 
 en spatula, until the sauce is fairly brown, then add bouillon so 
 as to obtain enougli sauce for all the cans. Add to it one small 
 size boiled onion and two boiled turnips, both crushed as fine as 
 you possibly can, salt to taste with ''prepared salt" that will in 
 the same time give proper flavoring. Boil the same for ten min- 
 utes, then fill the cans with it. 
 Process : 
 
 1 lb. 1 hr. 25 miu. at 236° 
 
 2 lb. 2 hrs. at 28(3° 
 
 3 lb. 2 hrs. 15 min. at 240° 
 
 MEAT JELLY. 
 
 Meat jelly is used in many instances in meat packing, but 
 generally to fill the cans or jars containing tongues, pork, roasted 
 fowl, etc., its preparation is simple, but great care should be 
 given not only to make it, but to clarify it. A good deal depends 
 on its appearance, it must be clear and bright. 
 
 Boil slowly for 8 to 10 hours beef and veal houghs, bones, 
 gelatinous parts of pork, sward, heads, etc., with a little more 
 water than actually required to cover them, adding enough of 
 "prepared salt" to give it good taste and a bunch of onions, car- 
 rots, parsley and celery. The jelly must have good taste, but 
 not be highly flavored. 
 
 After 8 hours' boiling drain the jelly, pass through a hair 
 sieve and put it in another kettle. Bring to a slow boiling and 
 remove all the fat and foam that rises to the surface. Then 
 clarify. 
 
 CLARIFICATION OF MEAT JELLIES WITH BLOOD. 
 
 This process is most reliable and can not fail to give the 
 brightest jelly. Add to the jelly a little of cream of tartar to 
 
173 
 
 make it slightly acid, or a cristal of tartaric acid. Stop boiling 
 and stir the mass of liquid while you pour in 6 oz. of mutton 
 blood. Keep on stirring the whole, turn on the steam and allow 
 to boil for 2 or 3 minutes, no more. Pour the hot jelly through a 
 wet flannel and it will be perfectly bright. 
 
 CLARIFICATION OF MEAT JELLY WITH EGGS. 
 
 Remove all the fat and foam, then add a little vinegar to the 
 jelly to make it slightly acid. Take the white of 3 eggs as many 
 times as you have quarts of jelly (10 quarts equals 30 eggs), add 
 to them 1 oz. of water per egg and beat them thoroughly and pour 
 the whole in the jelly, stir gently and turn the steam on. As 
 soon as it starts boiling shut off the steam and pass the hot jelly 
 through a wet fabric or flannel. It will be clear. 
 
 JELLY WITH ISINGLASS. 
 
 This method of clarification is also employed to clarify the 
 jelly made by dissolving on fire isinglass which has previously 
 soaked one day in water. Add salt and mixed "meat spices" to 
 taste and flavor with port or sherry wine. Steam jacket kettles 
 should be used, or if on direct fire use a bain-marie. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 VENISON STEAK. 
 
 Take off all the bones and nerves, throw them in a kettle 
 containing a little grease on a lively fire, after 10 minutes they 
 are well colored, add a few quarts of bouillon and boil slowly 
 3 hours. This you will use to fill the tins after the meat has 
 been canned. While the bones are being boiled roast your veni- 
 son in a hot oven or in a kettle on lively fire. The kettle is to 
 contain a little lard and it must be very hot when the meat is 
 placed in. 
 
 Cut the venison in steaks of proper size for the cans, cover 
 with the bone bouillon to which the gravy of the roasting is to 
 be added. Flavor with "prepared salt." 
 
174 
 
 HAKE STEW, FRENCH STYLE. 
 
 Hare stew is extensively canned in the East of France and the 
 West of Germany under the respective denominations of ''Civet 
 de Lievre" and "Hasenpfeffer." Remove the skin first, then the 
 intestines and cut the hare in pieces. Sawing where there is pos- 
 sibility, making for the whole a total of about 20 pieces exclusiv^e 
 of the head which is to be cut lengthwise in two parts. The head 
 will be stewed as well as the other part but is not to be canned. 
 
 Save all the blood you possibly can a"d place the chopped 
 parts in enameled or earthen ware vats or terrines in order to re- 
 tain the blood that will run from the fresh cut pieces (the liver 
 must be kept separate). 
 
 The average number of hares that can be cooked in a kettle 
 at each batch is 8 to 10 — we will therefore describe the prepara- 
 tion of a batch of 10. 
 
 Melt in a kettle 2 1-2 lbs. of butter and smoked bacon, cut in 
 small cubes, then add to it 3 1-2 lbs. flour, stir gently until the 
 flour has turned perfectly brown. Very carefully put in the 
 pieces of hare, stir gently with wooden spatula and pour in 
 enough red wine to cover the meat (about 15 quarts), 12 medium 
 size onions, 6 chopped and crushed cloves of garlic, salt and 
 enough "mixed spices" (see "especial spices for meats") — it must 
 be well spiced. 
 
 Boil 20 to 25 minutes, do not crush the meat. With the 
 skimmer pick the pieces of meat, placing them in an earthenware 
 turine and fill the tins. 
 
 To the sauce remaining in the kettle add the blood, it must 
 be done as follows : Crush fine the liver ( the gall being carefully 
 removed), mix with the hares blood, 3 pints of fresh pork blood 
 and one pint of wine. Stir, adding slowly 2 quarts of the hot 
 sauce from kettle, then pour the whole into the kettle. Boil 5 
 minutes, during which dissolve 1-4 lb. of flour in one pint of 
 sauce, pour in the kettle, and stirring continually, boil very slowly 
 for 2 or 3 minutes until the sauce has thickened properly. 
 
 Fill the cans with sauce, seal air tightly and process. 
 
 1 lb. cans 1 hr. 25 min. at 222° 
 
 2 lb. cans 1 hr. 50 min. at 222° 
 
 3 lb. cans 2 hrs. 10 min. at 222° 
 
 The heads must not be put in the cans, while the onions can 
 if they have first been slightly browned in butter before being 
 
175 
 
 added to the stew. The heart must be cut in two as it is hard to 
 cook. 
 
 HAEE STEW— ENGLISH STYLE. 
 
 The product obtained by the English process is far from be- 
 ing as rich as the French preparation. Operate as follows : 
 
 Cut in pieces same as previously explained, remove the liver, 
 the heart and the head, which will not be used. 
 
 For Eight Hares. 
 
 Place the pieces in the kettle and pour over enough melted 
 meat jelly to cover. Add: 
 
 Medium sized onions, chopped 10 pieces 
 
 Garlic, crushed 10 cloves 
 
 Powdered Currj^ 6 ozs. 
 
 Salt To taste 
 
 Mixed spices To taste 
 
 For mixed spices see index ("Especial Spices for Meats"). 
 Boil fifteen minutes, then thicken by addition of 4 ozs. of 
 flour dissolved in 1-2 pint of the stew and added to the whole 
 
 w 
 
 hile you stop 
 Process : 
 
 boi] 
 
 ling 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 lb. 
 
 cans 
 
 1 hr. 
 
 35 ] 
 
 tnin. 
 
 at 
 
 222° 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 lb. 
 
 cans 
 
 2 hrs. 
 
 
 
 at 222° 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 lb. 
 
 cans 
 
 2 hrs 
 
 20 
 
 min. 
 
 at 
 
 222° 
 
 RABBIT STEW. 
 
 For rabbit stew operate same as described for hare stew, 
 French style, but instead of adding wine to the rabbit after it has. 
 been for t>vo minutes in the grease and fat add 1-2 white wine, 
 1-2 meat bouillon, and instead of adding browned flour to give 
 consistency to the sauce, add plain flour diluted in a pint of the 
 sauce, then add to the whole. Can same as hare stew and 
 process same length of time. The head, heart and liver are not 
 used. The stew can be prepared with wild or domestic rabbits. 
 
176 
 WHOLE KOAHT CHICKEN. 
 
 Take young chickens, dress them, and roast either in the 
 kettle or in a hot oven. In fifteen minutes they must have taken 
 a good color ; place hot in the cans, fill up to 1-3 of the can, with 
 the gravy and a little melted butter. Add salt and "mixed 
 spices." (See Especial Mixed Spices.) 
 
 Process : 
 
 Whole chickens 1 hr. 30 min. at 222° 
 
 1-2 chicken (split lengthwise) 
 
 1 hr. 10 min. at 222° 
 
 1-4 chicken (leg or wing) 55 min. at 222° 
 
 CHICKEN IN JELLY. 
 
 Dress the chickens and boil them until one-half cooked in 
 enough meat jelly to cover them, adding one quart of white wine 
 and one calf's foot for each two chickens. Flavor with salt and 
 "mixed spices." When the chickens are one-half cooked remove 
 them from the kettle and put whole in oval cans of proper size. 
 During this time the jelly must have been clarified, (See ''Clari- 
 fication of Meat Jelly") pour it hot in the cans, enough to 
 cover the chickens. Seal and process: 
 
 If desired, to pack 1-2 and 1-4 chickens, they must be cut be- 
 fore cooking. 
 
 Process : 
 
 W^hole chickens 1 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 1-2 chicken 55 min. at 222° 
 
 1-4 chicken 45 min. at 222° 
 
 The jelly must be bright and clear; the canning can be made 
 in tins or glass boxes with the Phoenix caps. 
 
 CHICKENS IN ALL FANCY STYLES. 
 
 Chicken Madeira sauce, chicken sauce piquante, etc., can all 
 be easily prepared. Dress and cut the chickens same as for an 
 ordinary stew, roast in a frying pan containing 1-4 inch of 1-2 
 lard, 1-2 butter. Do not actually roast, but leave long enough to 
 give color to the meat. Can and cover with sauce. Seal and 
 process : 
 
177 
 
 1 lb. cans 1 hr. at 222° 
 
 2 lb. cans 1 hr. 10 min. at 222° 
 
 3 lb. cans 1 hr. 20 min. at 222° 
 
 Under the heading of "Sauces" is given all the varieties of 
 sauces that can be used. 
 
 DUCK. 
 
 There is not enough meat in the duck to warrant its canning 
 whole ; roasted or otherwise, it is always cut in pieces. 
 
 Dress the duck and roast it same as a chicken. When half 
 cooked, but well browned, let it cool off; cut in pieces and can; 
 cover with sauce of the variety you have selected from the chapter 
 ^'sauces." Seal and process: 
 
 1 lb. 1 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 2 lbs. 1 hr. 40 min. at 222° 
 
 3 lbs. 2 hrs. at 222° 
 Vegetables may be added to the cans such as peas, small 
 
 turnips, etc. In this case add a little melted smoked bacon, in 
 which one or two onions have been fried. The vegetables must 
 be blanched before canning. Canned vegetables can be used for 
 the puri)ose. Flavor with "prepared salt." (See Index.) 
 
 GOOSE IN JELLY. 
 
 Dress the goose and cut in four parts ; place them in a kettle, 
 covering with melted meat jelly, to which add one calf's foot for 
 each goose. Add a few carrots, onions, a little parsley, "especial 
 mixed spices." Boil slowly. 
 
 When half cooked take the pieces of goose out; can in oval 
 tins or glass jars of proper size, cover with the jelly, that must 
 first be clarified. (See Clarification of Meat Jelly.) Seal air- 
 tightly and process : 
 
 Can of 1 quarter goose 1 hr. 15 m. at 222° 
 
 Can of 2 quarters of goose 1 hr. 30 m. at 222° 
 
 Can of 3 quarters of goose 1 hr. 40 m. at 222° 
 
 Can of 4 quarters of goose 1 hr. 50 m. at 222° 
 
178 
 ROAST GOOSE. 
 
 Roast goose is prepared same as the roast chicken, but 
 process ten minutes longer. Geese, same as ducks, can be pre- 
 pared with all kinds of sauces ; can also be put up with vegetables 
 or sauerkraut. In the latter case the sauerkraut must be ready 
 cooked when added to the cans. 
 
 ROAST TURKEY 
 
 Dress the turkeys and roast them either in the steam kettle 
 or the baking oven. This must be done quickly, and as soon as 
 it has taken a good roast color remove from the kettle and cut in 
 pieces of proper size for the cans; prepare a good gravy with an 
 old turkey cut in pieces; tliese well roasted, add enough meat jelly 
 and boil 1-2 hour. The cans must only be 1-3 full of gravy. Seal 
 and process : 
 
 1 lb. cans 
 
 2 lb. cans 
 
 3 lb. cans 
 
 STEWED TURKEY 
 
 Cut tlie turkey in pieces, the legs being put separately. Boil 
 in a kettle enough water to fully cover all the pieces, add salt, 
 "s]!ccial meat spices," a few carrots, onions and a little parsley. 
 First put in the legs, and after 15 minutes' boiling add all the 
 other pieces. When 3-4 cooked, can the turkey, strain the juice 
 and thicken it Avith flour in the proportion of 1 oz. of flour and 
 1 oz. of butter for each pint of bouillon. Fill the cans and process 
 same as the roast turkey. 
 
 rrhe boiled turkey can be covered in the can with all the 
 various kinds of sauces, described under the title "Saiices." A 
 few canned or blaucjied fresh mushrooms, added in each can, will 
 add flavor and improve the appearance. 
 
 1 hr. 
 
 20 min. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 1 hr. 
 
 45 min. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 
 2 hrs. 
 
 at 222° 
 
179 
 ROAST PHEASANTS 
 
 Roast the pheasants until 1-3 cooked only. However, they 
 must have taken a good roast color. Can immediately, adding to 
 each can its part of gravy, 3 ozs. fresh melted butter and enough 
 "mixed spices" to flavor. 
 
 Seal and process : 
 
 Large size 2 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 Medium size 1 hr. 55 min. at 222° 
 
 Small size 1 hr. 45 min. at 222° 
 
 The cans must not be too large, and the oval shape is pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 PHEASANTS WITH SAUCE 
 
 Pheasants, same as all other fowl, can be prepared with 
 Perigueux, Madeira sauce and others. For this cut the bird in 
 pieces and roll each piece in flour ; roast them quickly in a frying 
 pan on lively fire, just enough to give them good color. Can, 
 covering with the sauce you have selected, to which the gravy has 
 been added. (See "Sauces.") 
 
 Process : 
 
 1 lb. cans 1 hr. 40 min. at 222° 
 
 2 lb. cans 2 hr. at 222° 
 
 3 lb. cans 2 hr. 20 min. at 222° \ 
 
 GROUSE AND WOODCOCK 
 
 Grouse and woodcocks are prepared in the -same way and 
 styles as pheasants. Same processing. 
 
 ROAST QUAILS 
 
 Cut the head and wings as customary for this bird, roll 
 around it a slice of fresh bacon (not smoked), which you fasten 
 with strings, and roast the quails for 5 to S minutes, according to 
 size, until they have taken good color. You can roast in a kettle 
 or an oven. Can, adding the gravy and a little melted fresh but- 
 ter. Flavor with "mixed spices." 
 
180 
 
 Process : 
 
 
 
 
 3 qnail 
 
 cans 
 
 50 min. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 4 (iiitiil 
 
 cans 
 
 1 hr. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 () quail 
 
 caus 
 
 1 111*. 10 min. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 8 quail 
 
 cans 
 
 1 hr. 20 min. 
 
 at 222° 
 
 Quails are also canned with vegetables, these are added to 
 che cans; peas are the most popular. Canned vegetables can be 
 used. Processinu remains the same. 
 
 liOAST PARTEIDGES 
 
 Dress the partridges, cover them with slices of fresh bacon 
 (not smoked or salted), tying the whole with strings. Flavor 
 with "mixed spices" and roast in an oven or in the kettle until it 
 has taken good color, 15 minutes being plenty for this. 
 
 Can in individual tins (one bird per can), placing a piece of 
 bacon on the bottom and one on top. Add the gravy and 2 ozs. 
 of melted fresh butter. 
 
 Process: 1 hr. 15 min. at 222°. 
 
 Partridges cut in pieces can be prepared same as pheasants 
 and canned with various kinds of sauces. (See "Pheasants with 
 Sauce.") 
 
 SQUABS 
 
 Roast squabs are prepared the same as roasted partridges, or 
 with various kinds of sauces same as pheasants, or with vege- 
 tables same as quails. Squabs are always roasted having a coat- 
 ing of sliced fresh bacon tied with strings. When put up with 
 sauce the squabs are left whole, roasted first, then the sauce or 
 vegetables are added. 
 
 SAUCES 
 
 The sauces can be divided in two sections, the brown and 
 the white sauces, each class being made of one especial stock to 
 which different flavorings are given in order to prepare the sauces 
 of various determinations. 
 
181 
 STOCK BROWN SAUCE 
 
 The stock brown sauce is the mother of all brown sauces. 
 It can be prepared in large quantities and the next day divided 
 into parts for the various brown sauces required for the day's 
 pack, it being Madeira, Perigueux, turtle, pepper sauce or others. 
 Prepare as follows : 
 
 For the "brown sauce," also called "sauce liee" and "Span- 
 ish sauce," first make the "brown stock" by melting on slow fire 
 4 lbs. of flour in 5 lbs. of butter, turn slowly with .'i wooden spoon 
 and keep heating slowly, always stirring until it has taken a good 
 brown color. It requires about half an hour. Add slowly 6 
 quarts of meat bouillon, and when thoroughly mixed add 30 
 quarts more. Boil very slowly for 30 minutes, skimming once in 
 a while and the sauce is ready. It can be used to cover roasted 
 or boiled meats. The brown stock (previous to the addition of 
 the bouillon) is same as used for all other sauces. 
 
 , SAUCE MADERE 
 
 For 35 quarts of sauce take 30 quarts of bouillon, made by 
 boiling 5 hours in water 20 lbs. of beef and 20 lbs. of veal without 
 fat and which have first been roasted for a few minutes in a frying 
 pan with a little butter. To these 30 quarts add 3 quarts Madeira 
 wine, 2 ozs. sugar and the juice of 5 lemons. Mix with "brown 
 stock" in same quantity and in same manner as described for 
 "brown sauce." 
 
 SAUCE GODARD 
 
 Is prepared same as "Sauce Madeira," but adding 4 lbs. of 
 roasted sweetbreads finely chopped, a few sliced truffles or truffle 
 peelings, 3 cans of mushrooms sliced and a touch of Cayenne 
 pepper. 
 
 GAME SAUCE 
 
 For venison, boar and other game fry in butter equal quant- 
 ity of carrots and onions, both being sliced, and 1-2 the quantity 
 of mixed turnips and parsnips. Then transfer to a kettle, cover 
 with red wine, add salt to taste, spice strongly with "mixed 
 
182 
 
 spicesj" add a bunch of parsley and boil very slowly 25 minutes 
 or about. Strain through a flannel and proceed same as for the 
 ''brown sauce," but replacing the meat bouillon by the same 
 quantity of the above preparation. 
 
 PEPPER SAUCE 
 
 The pepper sauce, also called "sauce poivrade/' is used for 
 all kinds of game. It is prepared same as the game sauce, but 
 increasing the quantity of onions and suppressing the turnips 
 and parsnips. Use white wine instead of red and a glass full of 
 vinegar to each 5 (juarts of sauce. It should also be richer in 
 spices. (See "Mixed Spices.") 
 
 ; SAUCE PERIGUEUX 
 
 The "Sauce Perigueux" is prepared same as "Sauce Madere," 
 but needs the addition of gravy of roasted meats, preferably of 
 game, and 1 oz. chopped truffles or truffle peelings for each quart 
 of sauce. 
 
 SAUCE PIQUANTE 
 
 Take 35 quarts of bouillon, made by boiling 45 lbs. of mixed 
 beef and veal which have previously been cut in small pieces and 
 roasted in butter. Add 2 glasses of good vinegar which has 
 boiled with one onion, 2 shallots and 3 cloves of garlic, the whole 
 being chopped. Strain through the flannel and add to the "brown 
 stock," same as "brown sauce," after which, flavor well with 
 "mixed spices," the juice of one lemon, 1 lb. of finely chopped 
 vinegar pickles and 1-4 lb. of capers. 
 
 TURTLE SAUCE 
 
 Prepare same as "Sauce Madere," but using only 1 quart 
 Madeira wine and 3 quarts of white wine. When the sauce is 
 ready, this is to say that the "brown stock" has been mixed with 
 the bouillon, add the juice of 2 gallon cans of tomatoes. 
 
183 
 ITALIAN SAUCE 
 
 The Italian sauce is prepared same as the "Sauce Piquante," 
 but instead of adding pickles and capers, add the contents of 3 
 cans of hotel grade mushrooms chopped and 1-4 lb. of dried mush- 
 rooms previously soaked in hot water and chopped. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE 
 
 The white sauce, also called "veloute," only diff,ers from the 
 ordinary brown sauce by the flour that is thoroughly incorpo- 
 rated, on a very slow fire, to the butter, in order to prevent it 
 from turning brown, the proportions of flour and butter to pre- 
 pare the "white" stock, as well as the proportion of meat bouillon 
 to be added, remaining the same. When the sauce is ready pass 
 through a fine wire cloth or hair sieve. 
 
 SAUCE BECHAMEL 
 
 The popular sauce bechamel is the same as the white sauce, 
 but milk takes the place of bouillon, the addition of 2 eggs per 
 quart of sauce makes it still richer. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE 
 
 The cream sauce, also called "sauce supreme," probably on 
 account of its delicacy, is prepared same as the white sauce, with 
 the addition of 1 quart of sweet cream to each gallon of sauce. 
 
 CANNING OF SAUCES 
 
 All the sauces can be canned and processed : 
 
 Pints 1 hr. at 235° 
 
 Quarts 1 hr. 15 min. at 235" 
 
184 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 C0N80MME 
 
 Is prepared by boiling 6 to 8 hours at very slow fire all the 
 pieces of meat, bones, etc., Avliich are not canned; always add a 
 few calves heads or beef and calves feet to give it consistency; J 
 lb. of meat gives 1 pint of consomme. Skim carefully, never 
 allow to boil hard and flavor with a bunch of carrots, parsley, 
 leek, parsnips and turnips, and a muslin bag containing mixed 
 spices. Remove all the fat on top of the bouillon, strain through 
 a fabric, and, if required, clarify by addition of blood, as ex- 
 plained under the title "Clarification of Meat Jelly." Can in 
 tins or glass jars, seal immediately and process. 
 
 CONSOMME OF CHICKEN 
 
 Roast a few chickens, just enough to color them, 10 minutes 
 is enough, add them to the meat, same as used for the previous 
 consomme, and boil very slowly for 6 hours. Skim, remove the 
 fat. Add salt and spices, and then strain, can and process. 
 
 POT AGE PKINTANIER 
 
 Fill each jar or can 1-4 of mixed carrots and turnips cut in 
 small cubes of 1-4 of an inch, gr^en peas and string beans cut in 
 pieces 1-2 inch long. These vegetables must be freshly blanched 
 or canned vegetables can be used. Fill with hot consomme or 
 meat bouillon. Seal and process. 
 
 OXTAIL 
 
 Oxtails, feet, bones and all other parts of the beef that are 
 not fat, are roasted in a kettle with not more grease than actually 
 required. When well browned cover with meat bouillon and boil 
 very slowly for 4 hours. In another kettle mix 8 lbs. of flour to 
 10 lbs. of melted butter, stir gently and keep on slow fire until 
 the flour is well browned, at which time add slowly and while 
 
185 
 
 stirring 65 quarts of the bouillon previously prepared. Flavor 
 with mixed spices, pass through a hair sieve or fabric, can or jar 
 and process. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP 
 
 Secure live turtles, kill them in the usual manner, cut the 
 head and hang them by the hind legs to allow the blood to run 
 out. Separate the skulls and remove the intestines and all the 
 fat, scrape and wash the flesh with hot Avater, then boil 1 1-2 
 hours in 2 parts white wine, 1 part water, enough liquid to fully 
 cover the turtle, add mixed spices and salt to taste, with an 
 extra addition of Cayenne pepper, thyme and sage. Drain, pass 
 the juice through a fabric and mix with 3 times its volume of ox- 
 tail soup, prepared as above described, and the juice of one lemon 
 and one pint of Madeira wine to each 8 quarts of soup. 
 
 Can, placing in each tin or jar 2 or 3 pieces of turtle. Seal 
 hot and process : 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP 
 
 Boil 2 hours a few calves head, cut in pieces, in water, adding 
 a tumbler full of good vinegar to each 4 gallons of water, salt to 
 taste and a little bunch of parsley and leek. Flavor with mixed 
 spices with an extra addition of baj^ leaves, marjoram, basilic, and 
 a little thyme. Then add 2 ozs. of raw ham finely cut to each 3 
 quarts of liquid and reboil 1-2 hour on a very slow fire. Skim care- 
 fully and add 1 lb. of "brown stock" (see Brown Sauce) to each .5 
 quarts of soup in order to thicken and color it. Pass through a 
 fabric, add 1 quart of Madeira wine and the juice of one lemon to 
 each 8 quarts of soup. Can hot in tins or jars and proces>^. 
 
 PEA SOUP 
 
 The pea soup is also called "Potage St. Germain," and is 
 prepared with fresh or canned peas for the high grade, with dried 
 peas for the cheap article. Take 20 quarts of fresh shelled peas, 
 boil them with a few heads of lettuce and leeks. When softened 
 crush thoroughly, add equal volume of meat bouillon, thicken 
 with "white stock" (see White Sauce"). Sweeten to taste with 
 
180 
 
 ■sugar, add 4 lbs. of butter and pass through the hair sieve. Can 
 and process. If canned peas are used the preparation remains 
 the same. To prepare with dried peas soak 10 quarts over night in 
 lukewarm water (100° Fahrenheit), in the morning drain and 
 leave them in a bucket without water for 8 hours. This will 
 cause them to swell and even start germination, which will 
 greatly soften and sweeten the peas. Then cook thoroughly with 
 water 5 lbs. lard and 5 lbs. smoked bacon, and to flavor: 1 lb. 
 carrots, 1 lb. onions and mixed spices. When cooked crush, pass 
 through the hair sieve, add meat bouillon if it is too thick. Can 
 and process. 
 
 TOMATO SOUP. 
 
 Scald the tomatoes, crush them, add a little water and boil 
 with 2 oz. of rice and 3 oz. of butter to each pound of tomatoes. 
 When cooked crush and pass through the hair sieve. Can and 
 process. 
 
 CKEAM OF ASPAIIAGUS 
 
 Scrape the asparagus and cut in pieces about 1-2 inch in 
 length. Blanch 2 minutes in boiling water, drain the water and 
 crush without cooling off. Add 2 ozs. butter for each pound 
 asparagus, mix thoroughly and pass through the hair sieve. 
 
 Pour back in the kettle, adding its volume of chicken or 
 meat bouillon, thicken with white stock (see "White Sauce"). 
 tUan hot and process. 
 
 CREAM OF CELERY AND CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER 
 
 The cream of celery and the cream of cauliflower are pre- 
 pared in the same manner as the cream of asparagus, merely 
 substituting fresh celery or cauliflower to the asparagus. 
 
 BISQUE OF LOBSTER 
 
 Boil the live lobsters in just enough water to cover them. 
 When cooked remove the lobsters and add in the kettle the same 
 'quantity of meat bouillon as it contains water in which the lob- 
 
 I 
 
J 87 
 
 «ters have boiled. To each quart of this mixed bouillon add 4 
 ozs. of ordinary rice and boil slowly for 1-2 hour. During this 
 time crush into a paste the lobsters, meat, shell and all, then pass 
 both the bouillon with rice and the crushed lobster through a 
 hair sieve. Put back in the kettle, incorporate 5 ozs. of butter 
 for each quart of the soup, spice with Cayenne pepper. Can hot 
 and process. 
 
 BISQUE OF SHRIMPS AND BISQUE OF CRAWFISHES 
 
 The bisque of shrimps and the bisque of crawfishes are pre- 
 pared in tlie same manner as the bisque of lobster, except for the 
 latter wliicli instead of being boiled in plain water are boiled in: 
 Water 2 parts 
 
 White wine 1 part 
 
 and flavoring same with a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay leaves 
 and a few small onions. 
 
 The addition of crushed boiled salt water fishes constitute 
 an adulteration. 
 
 PROCESSING OF SOUPS 
 
 Soups are packed in hot tin cans or glass jars and in both 
 •cases the processing remains the same. 
 
 Pints 50 min. at 230° 
 
 Quarts 60 min. at 230° 
 
 If in glass jars seal with Phoenix caps, lined with rubber 
 rings and pure tin foil discs. 
 
 PATES AND POTTED MEATS 
 
 The pates are boned meat, fowl or game, packed in cans or 
 glass dishes, all the spaces between the pieces of meat being filled 
 with hash of an especial composition for each variety. 
 
 PATE OF VEAL 
 
 Roast with a little butter for 1-2 hour pieces of veal, the best 
 quality of meat only being used. In another kettle roast in but- 
 
18S 
 
 ter also the liver, heart and other pieces of inferior grade ; when 
 cooked remove from the lire, chop and crush in a mortar and 
 knit with 1 lb. melted lard to each 3 lbs. of the paste, spice and 
 flavor with 3-4 oz. of prepared salt, per pound of this puree. Can 
 in tins or glass dishes, lining first the bottom 1-4 inch thick of 
 paste, place a layer of the roast veal which has been cut in small 
 pieces, then a layer of puree filling, etc., making a tight pack, the 
 last and top layer being filling. Seal airtightly and process. 
 
 PATE OF PORK 
 
 The pate of pork is prepared in the same manner as the pate 
 of veal, but as a culinary prei);uati()ii the best is undoubtedly the 
 combination of both, veal and pork in the same pate. 
 
 Some manufacturers prefer to chop the roast veal and pork 
 instead of cutting same in small pieces. In our opinion it spoils 
 the appearance of the pate when same is on the table and is being 
 sliced for eating. 
 
 PATE OF HARE 
 
 Cut the hare in pieces, remove all the bones, set the meat of 
 the legs aside to be crushed and lay the rest in earthenware jars, 
 packing tight and covering with a tumbler full of 1-2 good red 
 wine, 1-2 Madeira, leaving Tintil next day. Then remove from 
 the jars and roast in a kettle with very little grease until half 
 cooked, remove from the fire and cut in small pieces. 
 
 The meat of the legs is chopped and crushed with an equal 
 weight of fresh ham until reduced into a paste. Flavor and spice 
 by addition of 1-2 oz. of "prepared salt" per pound of paste, and 
 the wine and Madeira in which the meat has macerated. 
 
 Mix the roasted meat with the paste and 1-4 of the total 
 weight of fat salted bacon (not smoked) and cut in small cubes. 
 Can in small oval tins or glass dishes. Seal airtightly and 
 process : 
 
 1-4 lb. 1 hr. at 222° 
 
 1-2 lb. 1 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 1 lb. 1 hr. 30 min. at 222° 
 
 The boxes must be laying flat while cooling off. 
 
181) 
 PATE OF RABBIT 
 
 The pate of rabbit is prepared in the same manner as the 
 pate of hare, with the exception that to the paste made by chop- 
 ping and crushing the legs with equal weight of fresh ham, the 
 heart, liver and lungs are also added as well as the blood which is 
 kept over night in an earthenware jar with addition of a vinegar 
 to prevent it from spoiling. 
 
 To the spices a little serpolet (wild thyme) is added to give 
 this pate its peculiar flavor. 
 
 PATE OF VENISON 
 
 Eemove the bones and nerves and roast the venison for 15 min- 
 utes in a kettle. The most tender pieces set aside and cut in 
 small cubes, the balance chop fine with 1-3 its weight of suet, beef 
 or calf's fat. 
 
 Prepare the pate by mixing: 
 
 2 parts of venivson cut in cubes, 
 6 parts of the chopped venison, 
 1 part of pork or calf's tongue cut in cubes, 
 1 part mixed salted bacon and fresh ham cut in cubes. 
 Flavor with 1-2 oz. of "prepared salt" for each pound of the 
 mixture. Can and process: 
 
 1-4 lb. 1 hr. at 222° 
 
 1-2 lb. 1 hr. 15 min. at 222° 
 
 1 lb. 1 hr. 30 min. at 222° 
 
 PATES OF CHICKEN 
 TURKEY, DUCK, GOOSE, ETC. 
 
 Bone the fowl, lay the white meat aside, cutting same in thin 
 slices. Chop and crush the red meat together with its weight of 
 2-5 calf's meat, 1-5 fresh ham and 2-5 fresh bacon. Pass the pate 
 through a fine wire cloth sieve, so as to separate the nerves that 
 the meat may contain. 
 
 Fill the cans by layers of the crushed mixture, thin slices of 
 
190 
 
 fresh bacon and slices of the white meat of the fowl in the follow- 
 ing proportion : 
 
 Sliced fowl 2 parts 
 
 Sliced fresh bacon 1 part 
 
 Crushed mixture 6 parts 
 
 Spice and flavor with "prepared salt" in the proportion of 1-2' 
 oz. to each pound of pate. 
 
 Process same as game pates. 
 
 HEAD CHEESE 
 
 Cut the pork heads in 4 parts, wash them thoroughly in 
 water and throw them in a kettle of boiling water slightly salted, 
 flavored with a little thyme, bay leaves, cloves and one clove of 
 garlic per head. The kettle must contain one gallon of water 
 for each pork head. Boil very slowly for 2 hours, after which 
 time remove from the fire and bone the heads. Eemove carefully 
 the white skin of the tongues, adding salt and pepper to taste. 
 Pack tight in tins or glass jars. Seal airtightly and process 
 pound jars or cans one hour at 222°. 
 
 POTTED MEAT PASTE 
 
 Potted meats, it being tongue, ham, turkey, etc, or still 
 anchovy paste, etc., are all prepared in the same manner : Chop 
 and crush into a paste 3-4 of the stock ( tongue or ham, etc. ) , and 
 1-4 fresh bacon. Pass through fine Avire cloth to separate all fibres, 
 nerves and fragments of skin. Spice and flavor with salt and 
 mixed spices. 
 
 Fresh pork meat may be added in variable proportion in 
 order to lower the cost, and for anchovy paste fresh steamed her- 
 rings are used, salted anchovies being practically only added in 
 order to flavor. 
 
 These goods are packed in large quantities both in tin and 
 glass in England. Process 1 hr. 20 min. at 222°. 
 
 POTTED MEATS— HAM, TURKEY, TONGUE 
 
 Hash roughly the stock, it being ham, turkey or tongue and 
 cook slowly in a kettle with melted lard and a little water; it 
 
191 
 
 must not cook dry, the water will help to soften the meat so it 
 can absorb the lard, flavor with mixed spices, can hot in tins or 
 glass, seal airtightly and process 30 minutes at 222°. Shake 
 several times the cans or jars while they are cooling off in order 
 to keep the fat well mixed with the meat. 
 
 SAUERKRAUT— ITS PREPARATION 
 
 The quality of the sauerkraut depends especially of the va- 
 riety of cabbage used and the more or less improved machinery 
 used for shredding. A good sauerkraut should be firm, long and 
 white. 
 
 The cabbage being shredded is weighed and put in clean 
 barrels, pressed down tight with a wide piece of wood as each 
 layer is put in. On each layer add the salt in the proportion of 
 2 1-2 lbs. per 100 lbs. of cabbage, adding also a few juniper ber- 
 ries. When the barrel is full place the bottom boards on the 
 cabbage and keep pressed down by a large stone or a screw press . 
 if the barrel has been especially built for the purpose. In a few 
 days the water secreted by the cabbage will cover the boards, it 
 will constitute the brine and the sauerkraut is made. 
 
 COOKING AND CANNING 
 
 Wash the sauerkraut in several changes of water until all 
 the salt has been washed off. Cook not less than 5 hours or over 
 night, if possible, in a nickel or enameled steam kettle having a 
 tight fit cover (Fig. 16), with 3 ozs. of lard per pound and water 
 up to the level of the sauerkraut. It should also contain a little 
 muslin bag with pepper, cloves and juniiier. 
 
 When cooked it must be moist, but not contain any water, 
 and, while still hot, just before canning add 1 oz. of melted bacon 
 per pound of sauerkraut. This is smoked bacon cut in little 
 cubes melted in the frying pan, they are poured in as well as a 
 pint of white wine for each 10 lbs. of sauerkraut and the whole 
 thoroughly mixed without breaking the fibres more than unavoid- 
 able. Can and process: 
 
 1 lb. cans 45 min. at 230" 
 
 2 lb. cans 55 min. at 230° 
 
 3 lb. cans 1 hr. 15 min. at 230° 
 
192 
 
 CJoose fat added to the first cooking greatly increases its 
 palatability. In fact, tlie more fat it contains and the longer the 
 cooking and the processing the better the sauerkraut will be. 
 
 SAUERKRAUT WUFH SAUSAGE AND HAM 
 
 To the above prepared sauerkraut can be added frankfurters, 
 or, still better, small Lorraine sausages. They must first be 
 soaked in hot water and given time to swell, the skin being 
 pierced with a fork to avoid its bursting. Put one or two in 
 each can and process as above. 
 
 If ham is to be added it should first be boiled, sliced, and each 
 slice be wrapped in calf's fringe, then put in the cans, sealed and 
 processed. 
 
 The calf's fringe wrapper will protect the ham and it will 
 not fall to pieces while processing as it would otherwise. 
 
 PRESERVING OF BEER 
 
 Beer is now extensively preserved, pasteurized to insure its 
 keeping, hence the necessity of an absolutely airtight seal and 
 here have the Weissenthanners' patents proved their supremacy, 
 and the difficulties of preserving beer are a thing of the past. 
 
 The beer to be thoroughly pasteurized is to be processed as 
 Boon as bottled and sealed in a water bath at the temperature of 
 170° Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. This has, of course, the effect 
 of stopping and preventing future fermentation ; the beer can be 
 shipped under any climate and in any season. 
 
 Partial sterilization, as practiced by many breweries and 
 insuring the keeping of the beer for a limited period only, is 
 made by processing the bottled beer for 30 minutes at the tem- 
 perature of 140° Fahrenheit. 
 
 Experiments made by the writer have demonstrated the fact 
 that if a bottle is sealed with a cork, an ordinary cork, the tight- 
 ness of the seal depends on the pressure exercised by this cork 
 against the inside of the neck of the bot'tle. This cork on account 
 of its elasticity tends to swell back to its original diameter, press- 
 ing against the sides of the neck, and, therefore, the bigger the 
 cork the more it has been squeezed to get into the neck, the more 
 strength it will possess and the tighter the sealing. 
 
193 
 
 But practical work has taught us that a cork can only be 
 squeezed 50 per cent., tliis is to say of one-half of its thickness, into the 
 neck of a beer bottle ; its alrti<;htiiess is therefore quite limited, while 
 wlth^the Phoenix cork, (Fig. 33), my experience demonstrates that 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 the cork washer is squeezed to one-fifth of its original thickness 
 and is held there by a flat horizontal crimping that does not give 
 away, even if the bottle is heated at a temperature ot 250'^ Fahren- 
 heit. (Boiling water 212°.) 
 
 In processing beer, to avoid breakage, raise the temperature 
 slowly up to the required temperature. To avoid the bursting 
 of bottles while processing be sure they are not filled too much, 
 the heat expends the beer, its level raises inside of the bottle and 
 compresses the air that is enclosed in the bottle. The air is very 
 compressible and the liquid is not; if there is a very small air- 
 space in the bottle it will not be sufficient to allow for the expan- 
 sion of the liquid, and the strength of this expansion will cause 
 the bottle to leak or to burst. With an airtight seal they will 
 burst, therefore, great care should be given to the proper filling. 
 
 In a bottle sealed with an ordinary cork the air space is small ; 
 as the cork 'being driven into the neck takes a good deal of room, 
 the bottles which are to be processed must therefore be filled much 
 less, otherwise they would burst in processing. If the same shape 
 of bottle is used and sealed with the "Phoenix" it can be filled 
 1 1-2 inch higher up with beer without reducing the necessary air 
 space. 
 
IISTDIBX:. 
 
 THE ART OF PRESERYING AND 
 CANNINfi AS AN INDUSTRY. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Aerometer Beaume . . . .52 
 
 Aerometer Brix ..... 53 
 Air enclosed in cans or jars . 11-99 
 
 Air space in glass jars . . . lOfi 
 Antiseptic power of brine . . .96 
 Bacteria (action of brine) ... 94 
 
 Bacteria Diphteria 156 
 
 Bacteria Ptomaines .... 155 
 
 Bacteria Tetanus . . . . . 157 
 
 Bacteria Typhoid .... 156 
 
 Bacteriology applied to Canning . . 92 
 Beaume Aerometer .... 52 
 
 Beef canning . ..... 158 
 
 Beer — Pasteurization . . . 192 
 
 Blanching 8 
 
 Blanching of fruits .... 32 
 
 Blanching kettle 109 
 
 Blanching of vegetables . . . 107 
 Bottling fruits in Brandy . . . 105 
 
 Brine 9 
 
 Brine (action on bacillus). . . 94 
 
 Brine (antiseptic power) . . .96 
 
 Brine (salt) Ill 
 
 Brine (sweet) . . . . . Ill 
 
 Brix aerometer 53 
 
 Brown stock for sauces . . . 181 
 Candying of fruits .... 32 
 Canning of meats .... 158 
 Canning of vegetables .... 107 
 Cans sealing ..... 12 
 
 Caps for sealing .... 100 103 
 Clarification of meat jelly witb blood 172 
 Clarification of meat jelly with eggs . 173 
 Clarification of sugar syrup . . 65 
 
 Clarification of syrup . . . .66 
 Coloring of cherries .... 40 
 <3oloring of f/uits 34 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Cooling oil (cans or jars) ... 10 
 
 Cooling tank 109 
 
 Copper sulphate in canning . . 107 
 
 Cordials 81 
 
 Crystalizing fruits . ... 35- 
 
 Dipping (hot) 9> 
 
 Distilled frtiit water .... 87' 
 
 Early age 3;- 
 
 Extracts 72 
 
 Fermenied juices . . . . . 6T 
 
 Fish canning 138 
 
 Fish (fresh water) .... 145 
 
 Game . . ... . . 17» 
 
 Glace fruits . . . . . 3&- 
 
 Glass, airtight sealing . 97 and 100-- 
 
 Glass boxes for sardines . . . 140" 
 (}lass (packing in) .... 12r. 
 
 Glass jars bottles capping machine . 101 
 Glass jars for fruits .... 100- 
 
 Glass jars for preserving milk . . 154' 
 Glass jars processing . . . lOS 
 Glass jars for sliced meats . . . 168-- 
 Glass (processing at high temperatures) 99 
 Glass stoppers for ketchup . . 130' 
 
 Ground top jars sealing . . . 102' 
 
 Glucose candying .... 33 
 
 Glucose for fruit canning . .38; 
 
 Glucose syrup 52.' 
 
 Infusions. 90- 
 
 IsingLiss jellies 173. 
 
 Jam jars sealing .... 105- 
 Jars for fruits in brandy . . . 105 
 Jars for packing vegetables . . 106 
 
 Jars for sliced meats . . . ' 168 
 Jellies with isinglass . 17S 
 
 Jelly (meat) . . . . . .172 
 
 Ketchup 129 
 
 Kettle for blanching . . . . 109 
 
 Meat canning 158 
 
 Meat jelly 172 
 
 Meats potted ...... 18Z. 
 
INDKX — Oan)diiij and Preserving Continued. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Mustards 134 
 
 MattoQ canning .... 170 
 
 Packing in glass ..... 12 
 Pasteurization of beer . . . 192 
 
 P ites of meats 187 
 
 Percentage sj'rnp scale ... 53 
 
 Plum pu U:ing 128 
 
 Pork canning ..... 165 
 
 Potted meats 187 
 
 Prepared salt 168 
 
 Prepared vegetables .... 125 
 
 Present days ... ... 6 
 
 Pricldng of fruits .... 32 
 
 Pickling 132 
 
 Process of candying peels . . • 54 
 Processing (determination of time) . 7 
 Processing at high temperature in glass 9!) 
 Processing vegetables (general rule) . 113 
 Ptomaines . . . .94 and 155 
 
 Ready prepared vegetables . . 1 25 
 Kule for processing vegetables . . 113 
 
 Salt brine Ill 
 
 S.ilt brine, antiseptic power . . 96 
 
 Salt brine with sulphite . . . 132 
 
 Salt prepared 168 
 
 Sauces 180 
 
 Sauerkraut 191 
 
 Sausages 165 
 
 Saving sugar foam and waste . . 66 
 Sealing airtightly glass jars . . 100 
 Sealing cans and glass .... 97 
 
 Sealing with caps and rubber rings 103 
 
 (Sealing of fruits in glass . . 1> 
 
 Sealing ground top glass jars . . 102 
 Sealing jams jars ..... 105 
 
 Sliced meats in glass jars . . . 168 
 Soups, . . . . . . 184 
 
 Spices for meats .... 167 
 
 Spirits 88 
 
 Sterilization ..... 7 
 
 Stone j irs for candying . . .34 
 
 Sugar for fruit canning ... 37 
 Sulphate of copper .... 107 
 Sulphite in salt biine . . . 132 
 Sweet brine . . . . .111 
 
 Syrup of fruits 65 
 
 Table (comparative Brix and Beaume) 54 
 Temperaturt' for processing glass jars 103 
 Vacuum . . . . .10 
 
 Veal canning ..... 164 
 Vegetables, prtserved in salt . . 13 
 
 Vegetables ready prepared 
 Vent hole 
 Vinegtr pickling 
 
 PAGE 
 
 125 
 
 12 
 
 133 
 
 FROITS. 
 
 Syraps, Extracts, jDices, Jams. 
 
 Aerometer Beaume 
 
 . 52 
 
 Albumen water 
 
 66 
 
 Alcoholic fruit juices . 
 
 . 69 
 
 Almonds (green) candied 
 
 49 
 
 Almonds (green) in syrup . 
 
 . 29 
 
 Angelica bleaching . 
 
 47 
 
 Angelica in brandy 
 
 . 63 
 
 Angelica candied 
 
 47 
 
 Angelica glace .... 
 
 48 
 
 Apple juice .... 
 
 . 67 
 
 Apples in syrup 
 
 18 
 
 Apples in water . 
 
 14 
 
 Apricots, bleaching . 
 
 43 
 
 Apricots in brandy 
 
 . 61 
 
 Apricots candied 
 
 43 
 
 Apricots crystalized 
 
 44 
 
 Apricot distilled water 
 
 87 
 
 ApricDts glace 
 
 . 44 
 
 Apricots in syrup . 
 
 . 23 
 
 Apricots in syrup (whole) . 
 
 . 23 
 
 Bananas, candied . 
 
 . 46 
 
 Bananas in syrup 
 
 26 
 
 Bar-le-Duc jelly 
 
 . 25 
 
 Be lume aerometer 
 
 52 
 
 Blackberries in brandy . 
 
 . 62 
 
 Black brry brandy 
 
 85 
 
 Blackberry syrui) extract 
 
 . 73 
 
 Blackben y juice 
 
 69 
 
 Blackberry liquor . 
 
 . 85 
 
 Blackberries in syrup 
 
 25 
 
 Black currant cordial 
 
 . 83 
 
 Black currant distilled water 
 
 . 87 
 
 Black currant juice . 
 
 . 69 
 
 Black currant syrup extract 
 
 • 73 
 
 Blanching lor candving fruits 
 
 . 32 
 
 Bleaching apricots 
 
 43 
 
 Blfcachiiig landied fruits 
 
 . 31 
 
 Bleaching pineapple . 
 
 45 
 
 Brandy (fruits in) ... 
 
 . 35 and 56 
 
 Oanaied fruiis . . , 
 
 . . .31 
 
 " green almonds * . 
 
 . . ;v 49 
 
l^DEX — Fruits Continued. 
 
 IH 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 Oandied angt- lica . . . 
 
 . 47 
 
 Cherry pulp 
 
 " 
 
 apricots 
 
 44 
 
 Cherries in syrup . 
 
 " 
 
 bananas . 
 
 . 4(5 
 
 Cherries in water . 
 
 1 1 
 
 blanching 
 
 32 
 
 Cherries, Wiesbaden Compot 
 
 " 
 
 bleaching 
 
 . 31 
 
 Chestnuts in brandy 
 
 ■ < 
 
 candying 
 
 :i2 
 
 Chestnuts candied 
 
 (1 
 
 candying in glucose 
 
 . 33 
 
 Chestnuts glace 
 
 (i 
 
 cherries 
 
 40 
 
 Chefctnuts in syrup 
 
 " 
 
 cherries "mi-sucre" 
 
 . 42 
 
 Cinnamon (Ceylon) infusion 
 
 >( 
 
 chestnuts 
 
 48 
 
 " 
 
 (Chinese) infusion 
 
 " 
 
 citrons 
 
 . 51 
 
 " 
 
 (Ceylon) spirit of 
 
 " 
 
 fiss . . . . 
 
 46 
 
 " 
 
 (Chinese) spirit . 
 
 i< 
 
 green gages 
 
 . 42 
 
 Citrons 
 
 , candied 
 
 " 
 
 lemon peels . 
 
 52 
 
 Citrons 
 
 , glace 
 
 " 
 
 lemons whole . 
 
 . 52 
 
 Clarification of sugar syrup 
 
 " 
 
 limes .... 
 
 52 
 
 Cloves, 
 
 infusion . 
 
 " 
 
 mandarines 
 
 . 52 
 
 Cloves, 
 
 spirit . 
 
 <> 
 
 medlars 
 
 5i» 
 
 Cochin 
 
 eal extract 
 
 " 
 
 melons 
 
 . 47 
 
 Cofleee ( 
 
 ■ordial 
 
 " 
 
 ■whole melons 
 
 47 
 
 Coffee spirit . 
 
 (< 
 
 nuts .... 
 
 . 49 
 
 Coffee syrup extract . 
 
 a 
 
 orange peels 
 
 50 
 
 Cognac 
 
 syrup 
 
 n 
 
 whole oranges . 
 
 . 50 
 
 Coloring of cherries . 
 
 " 
 
 peaches 
 
 43 
 
 Coloring fruits 
 
 i< 
 
 I)ears 
 
 . 38 
 
 Cordials .... 
 
 " 
 
 pink pears 
 
 39 
 
 Cordial 
 
 , blackberry brandy . 
 
 " 
 
 pineapple 
 
 . 45 
 
 (( 
 
 blackberry liquor 
 
 " 
 
 plums .... 
 
 42 
 
 " 
 
 black currant 
 
 <( 
 
 prickling . 
 
 . 32 
 
 " 
 
 casfcis (French) 
 
 " 
 
 quince .... 
 
 39 
 
 ■' 
 
 celery 
 
 " 
 
 strawberries 
 
 . 44 
 
 " 
 
 cherry , 
 
 (> 
 
 watermelon 
 
 47 
 
 " 
 
 coffee 
 
 t< 
 
 fruits 
 
 . 32 
 
 " 
 
 creme of framboise 
 
 " 
 
 fruits, quick process . 
 
 54 
 
 (( 
 
 cream of Moka 
 
 " 
 
 in glucose . 
 
 . 33 
 
 " 
 
 Holland cuiacao 
 
 " 
 
 peels quick process 
 
 54 
 
 " 
 
 lemon 
 
 " 
 
 peels s['eeial process 
 
 . 55 
 
 <( 
 
 lemon (German) 
 
 " 
 
 (stone jars for) 
 
 34 
 
 " " 
 
 maraschino 
 
 Cassis (French) . . . . 
 
 . 83 
 
 " 
 
 noyau . 
 
 Celery cordial .... 
 
 85 
 
 " 
 
 orange 
 
 Celery spirit 
 
 . 88 
 
 " 
 
 orange flower 
 
 Cherries 
 
 , blan' hing . 
 
 40 
 
 <( 
 
 orange liquor . 
 
 Cherries 
 
 in brandy 
 
 . 57 
 
 " 
 
 pinejipple . 
 
 Cherries 
 
 candied 
 
 40 
 
 <( 
 
 quince . 
 
 Cherries 
 
 , cidoring 
 
 . 40 
 
 " 
 
 rose . 
 
 Cherry cordial .... 
 
 83 
 
 " 
 
 strawberry 
 
 Cherries crystalized 
 
 . 42 
 
 i< 
 
 vanilla 
 
 Cherries 
 
 (glace) . . . 
 
 42 
 
 " 
 
 violet . 
 
 Cherry j 
 
 nice .... 
 
 69 
 
 Coriand 
 
 er spirit 
 
 Cherries in maiaschino . 
 
 .21 
 
 Creme c 
 
 1 fleur d'oranger 
 
 Cherries 
 
 "mi Sucre"' . 
 
 . 42 
 
 Creme of framboise 
 
 PAGE 
 15 
 
 , 20 
 .14 
 
 21 
 . 64 
 
 48 
 . 49 
 
 28 
 . 90 
 
 90 
 . Id 
 
 89 
 . 51 
 
 51 
 . 65 
 
 90 
 . 89 
 
 91 
 
 84 
 . 88 
 
 75 
 . 71 
 
 40 
 . 34 
 
 81 
 . 85 
 
 8S 
 . 83 
 
 83 
 . 85 
 
 83 
 . 84 
 
 82 
 . 84 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 82 
 
 58 
 
 85 
 
 81 
 
 86 
 
 81 
 . 84 
 
 84 
 . 86 
 
 83 
 , 86 
 
 86 
 . 8& 
 
 86 
 . 82 
 
r 
 
 mo 
 
 ZH— Fruits Continued. 
 
 
 
 
 ri.GE 
 
 PACtS 
 
 CSreme of Moka . . 
 
 84 
 
 Fruits in brandy, pears 
 
 57 
 
 Creme of vauilla .... 
 
 . 86 
 
 " " preparation, common 
 
 
 <]!rystalized fruits 
 
 35 
 
 method 
 
 56 
 
 <i 
 
 •' apricots . 
 
 . 44 
 
 '• " preparation, second 
 
 
 i< 
 
 " cherries 
 
 . 40 
 
 grade 
 
 56 
 
 K 
 
 " qainces . 
 
 . 40 
 
 " " preparation, superior 
 
 
 " 
 
 " strawberries 
 
 45 
 
 gr.ade 
 
 56 
 
 Orushed fruilB .... 
 
 . 13 
 
 " " quince . 
 
 57 
 
 Cudbear extract . . . . 
 
 90 
 
 " " strawberries 
 
 61 
 
 Extract of bitter filmond sjTup 
 
 . 75 
 
 Fruits, candying, quick process 
 
 54 
 
 " 
 
 for blackberry syrup . 
 
 73 
 
 Fruits, coloring 
 
 34 
 
 •• 
 
 for black currant syrup . 
 
 . 73 
 
 Fruit distilled waters 
 
 87 
 
 ■" 
 
 of cochineal 
 
 91 
 
 Fruit infusions 
 
 90 
 
 ■" 
 
 for coffee syrup 
 
 . 75 
 
 Fruit jams 
 
 78 
 
 *i 
 
 concentrated for syrnps 
 
 72 
 
 Fruit jellies 
 
 76 
 
 •4 t 
 
 of cudbear 
 
 . 90 
 
 Fruit juices 
 
 67 
 
 •<( 
 
 for grenadine syrup 
 
 74 
 
 " alcoholic .... 
 
 69 
 
 •41 
 
 for lemon syrup 
 
 . 74 
 
 " apple ... . . 
 
 67 
 
 -ti 
 
 maraschino . 
 
 71 
 
 •' blackberry. 
 
 69 
 
 -4t 
 
 for orange syrup 
 
 . 74 
 
 " black currant . 
 
 69 
 
 "' 
 
 of orgeat sj rup 
 
 75 
 
 " cherry 
 
 69 
 
 ■4f 
 
 for pineapple syrup . 
 
 . 74 
 
 " fermented 
 
 67 
 
 <t 
 
 for raspberry syrup 
 
 73 
 
 " huckleberry 
 
 69 
 
 '» 
 
 for red currant syrup 
 
 . 73 
 
 " lemon .... 
 
 69 
 
 It 
 
 for strawberry syrup . 
 
 72 
 
 " orange .... 
 
 69 
 
 5'ancy 
 
 syrups 
 
 . 70 
 
 " pear .... 
 
 69 
 
 "Fermented fruit juices 
 
 , 67 
 
 " quince .... 
 
 68 
 
 Tigs iu 
 
 brandy .... 
 
 . 62 
 
 " raspbtrry 
 
 . 69 
 
 Tigs, candied 
 
 46 
 
 " red currant ... 
 
 69 
 
 Figs, glace 
 
 46 
 
 " strawberry 
 
 69 
 
 Figs in 
 
 L syrup .... 
 
 . 27 
 
 Fruit paste 
 
 91 
 
 Flavoi 
 
 ing for cherries in brandy 
 
 57 
 
 Fruit pulp 
 
 . 14 
 
 Flowei 
 
 water, orange 
 
 . 87 
 
 " cherries .... 
 
 15 
 
 Foam, 
 
 sugar wahte 
 
 66 
 
 " green gages 
 
 15 
 
 Fruits (alcoholic infusions) . 
 
 . 90 
 
 " peach 
 
 15 
 
 Fruits in brandy . . 
 
 56 
 
 " raspberry 
 
 16 
 
 (( 
 
 " angelica 
 
 . 63 
 
 *' strawberry .... 
 
 16 
 
 " 
 
 " apricots 
 
 61 
 
 Fruit spirit 
 
 8S 
 
 4i 
 
 " blackberiies 
 
 . 62 
 
 " celery 
 
 88 
 
 4< 
 
 " cherries 
 
 57 
 
 " cinnamon (Ceylon) . 
 
 89 
 
 ^l 
 
 " chestnuts . 
 
 . 64 
 
 '■ cinnamon (Cliinese) 
 
 89 
 
 4( 
 
 figs 
 
 62 
 
 " cloves .... 
 
 89 
 
 ■it 
 
 " green gages 
 
 . 59 
 
 " coffee .... 
 
 88 
 
 " 
 
 " limes 
 
 64 
 
 " coriander .... 
 
 89 
 
 4 ( 
 
 " mandarines. 
 
 . 64 
 
 " lemon 
 
 88 
 
 '* 
 
 '* medlars . 
 
 . 64 
 
 " noyau .... 
 
 88 
 
 " 
 
 " melons 
 
 . 63 
 
 " orange 
 
 88 
 
 ■4S 
 
 " nnts . 
 
 . 63 
 
 " raspberry .... 
 
 88 
 
 *• 
 
 " nuts (green) 
 
 . 63 
 
 '' strawberry 
 
 . 88 
 
 II 
 
 " peaches . 
 
 . 60 
 
 Fruit syrup 
 
 65 
 
 *l 
 
 " peaches (green) . 
 
 60 
 
 " 
 
 69 
 
INDEX— iJVutt* Continued. 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 PAac 
 
 Frnit Syrup, extracts . . , . 
 
 72 
 
 Glase fruits, citrons 
 
 . 51 
 
 " 
 
 (from fresh fruits) 
 
 . 70 
 
 figs . . . 
 
 46 
 
 >{ 
 
 by juices . . . . 
 
 63 
 
 • ' green gages 
 
 . 42 
 
 " 
 
 by extracts . 
 
 . .2 
 
 " mandarines . 
 
 52 
 
 Fruits in 
 
 light syrup 
 
 16 
 
 " marrons . 
 
 . 49 
 
 Fruits ia 
 
 heavy syrup . 
 
 . 17 
 
 " medlars 
 
 50 
 
 Fruits in 
 
 syrup, almonds (green) 
 
 29 
 
 " melons 
 
 . 47 
 
 <( 
 
 apples .... 
 
 . 18 
 
 " nuts 
 
 49 
 
 (< 
 
 apricots 
 
 . 23 
 
 " wLole oranges . , 
 
 . 51 
 
 " 
 
 whole apricots 
 
 23 
 
 " peaches 
 
 43 
 
 " 
 
 bananas 
 
 . 26 
 
 " pears 
 
 . 39 
 
 tt 
 
 blackberry 
 
 25 
 
 " pineapple 
 
 :6 
 
 " 
 
 cherries 
 
 . 20 
 
 " quince 
 
 •40 
 
 " 
 
 chestnut . . . . 
 
 28 
 
 " strawberries . 
 
 . 45 
 
 " 
 
 figs ... . 
 
 . 27 
 
 Glucose (candying in) 
 
 .33 
 
 (( 
 
 gooseberries 
 
 25 
 
 Glucose with fruits from a chemical 
 
 point 
 
 <( 
 
 green gages . 
 
 . 21 
 
 of view .... 
 
 . 37 
 
 " 
 
 limes .... 
 
 31 
 
 Glucose syrup . . . . 
 
 .52 
 
 <i 
 
 medlars 
 
 . 30 
 
 Gooseberries in syrup 
 
 25 
 
 <( 
 
 melons . . . . 
 
 28 
 
 Grape jam 
 
 . 79 
 
 " 
 
 nuts .... 
 
 . 29 
 
 Grape syrup .... 
 
 70 
 
 <i 
 
 peaches 
 
 22 
 
 Green gages (blanching) . 
 
 . 42 
 
 " 
 
 pears . 
 
 . 18 
 
 " candied 
 
 . 42 
 
 ^ < 
 
 cooking pears . 
 
 . 19 
 
 " glace 
 
 . 42 
 
 -1 1 
 
 fancy pink pears . 
 
 . 19 
 
 pulp .... 
 
 . 15 
 
 II 
 
 pineipple , 
 
 . 25 
 
 " in syrup . 
 
 21 
 
 " 
 
 qniuce . . . . 
 
 19 
 
 ♦' in brandy . 
 
 . id 
 
 " 
 
 raspberry 
 
 . 24 
 
 Grenadine syrnp extract . 
 
 74 
 
 It 
 
 red currant 
 
 24 
 
 Huckleberry juice .... 
 
 . 69 
 
 c< 
 
 rhubarb 
 
 . 28 
 
 Infusion (alcoholic) of fruits 
 
 90 
 
 (1 
 
 strawberries 
 
 23 
 
 " Ceylon cinnamon . 
 
 . 90 
 
 (( 
 
 Weisbaden fruits . 
 
 . 18 
 
 " of Chinese cinnamon . 
 
 . 90 
 
 (( 
 
 Weisbaden cherries . 
 
 21 
 
 ' ' of cloves . 
 
 . 90 
 
 11 
 
 Weisbaden strawberries 
 
 . 23 
 
 " of fruits 
 
 90 
 
 Fruits in 
 
 water .... 
 
 13 
 
 " Iris root 
 
 . 90 
 
 '« 
 
 apples 
 
 . 14 
 
 " of lemon '. 
 
 . !K) 
 
 " 
 
 cherries 
 
 14 
 
 " of mandarine . 
 
 . 90 
 
 i< 
 
 whole pineapple 
 
 . 16 
 
 " of orange 
 
 90 
 
 (1 
 
 rhubarb 
 
 16 
 
 of vanilla . 
 
 . 89 
 
 Fruit water, apricot 
 
 . 87 
 
 Iris root infusion 
 
 . 90 
 
 i< 
 
 black currant 
 
 87 
 
 Jams (fruits) .... 
 
 . 78 
 
 " 
 
 orange flower . 
 
 . 87 
 
 Jars (stone) for candying . 
 
 • 34 
 
 <( 
 
 peach . 
 
 87 
 
 Jelly (Bar le due) . . . . 
 
 . 25 
 
 <( 
 
 raspberry 
 
 . 87 
 
 Juices (fruit) .... 
 
 67 
 
 " 
 
 rose 
 
 87 
 
 Jellies (fruit) 
 
 . 76 
 
 <( 
 
 strawberry 
 
 . 87 
 
 Jellies (vegetal compound) 
 
 77 
 
 ■Glace fruits .... 
 
 36 
 
 Kirschenwasser punch syrup 
 
 . 70 
 
 «( 
 
 angelica . 
 
 . 48 
 
 Lemon (whole) candied . 
 
 52 
 
 t( 
 
 apricots 
 
 44 
 
 '•■ cordial .... 
 
 . 8i 
 
 <( 
 
 cherries . 
 
 . 42 
 
 " cordial (German ) , 
 
 82 
 
 II 
 
 chestnuts 
 
 49 
 
 " infusion .... 
 
 . 90 
 
INDEX— Fruits Conilnued. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lemon juice 69 
 
 " peels, candied . . , .52 
 
 " spiiit 88 
 
 *' syrup extract .... 74 
 
 Limes in brandy . . . 64 
 
 Limes, candied 52 
 
 Limes in syrup 31 
 
 Liquors . . . . . . 81 
 
 Mandarines in brandy . . , .64 
 Mandarines cndied . ... 51 
 
 Mandarines glaces .... 52 
 
 Mandarine infusion .... 90 
 
 Maraschino cherries .... 21 
 
 Maraschino cordial 85 
 
 Marmalade (orange) English formula 80 
 French . . 80 
 
 Marrons glaces 49 
 
 Mar.shmallow syrup .... 71 
 
 Medlars in brandy .... 64 
 
 " candied .... 50 
 
 " glaces 50 
 
 " in syrup 30 
 
 Melons in brandy .... 63 
 
 Melons, candied .... 47 
 
 Melons (whole) candied ... 47 
 
 Melons, glaces 47 
 
 Melons in syrup 28 
 
 Noyau cordial 85 
 
 Noyan spirit 88 
 
 Nntd in brandy .... 63 
 
 Nuts (green) in brandy ... 63 
 
 N"ts, candied 49 
 
 Nuts, glac€P 49 
 
 Nutsinsyrap 29 
 
 Orange, (whole) candied ... 50 
 
 " cordial 81 
 
 '• flower cordial ... 86 
 
 " flower syrup ... 72 
 
 " flower water . . . .87 
 " (whole) giiices . . . 51 
 
 *' Holland curacoa . . . 81 
 " infusion .... 90 
 
 ji'ice 69 
 
 " licjuor ..... 81 
 " English marmalade . . 80 
 
 " French marmalade . . 80 
 
 " peels candied . . . .50 
 " fresh peels ... 50 
 
 " salted peels . . . . 50 
 
 " spirit 88 
 
 " syrup extract ... 74 
 
 PAGS 
 
 Paste, fruit ..,-.. .91 
 Peaches, blanching . . . . .43 
 " in brandy .... CO 
 " (green) in brandy . . .60 
 " candied . . . . .43 
 " distilled water . . . .87 
 glaces . . . . .43 
 
 pulp 15 
 
 " in syrup . . . . .22 
 
 Pears in brandy . . . .57 
 
 " candied ..... 38 
 
 " (candied pink) . . . .39 
 
 " (cooking) .... 1^ 
 
 " glaces 3& 
 
 " juice G* 
 
 " (in syrup) fancy pink . . 1^ 
 
 " in syrup 18 
 
 Peels, candjing process . . . .54 
 " candj ing, special quick process 55 
 " (candied) lemon ... 52 
 " (candied) orange . . , .50 
 " (fresh and salted) orange . 50 
 Percentage scale .... 53 
 
 Pineapple bleaching 45 
 
 " candied .... 45 
 
 •' glaces 46. 
 
 " liquor .... 84 
 
 " syrup extract . . .74 
 
 ** in syrup .... 25 
 
 " in water (whole) . . . 1^ 
 
 Plums candied 42 
 
 Plum pudding 12& 
 
 Preserving of fruits .... 13 
 
 Prickling of candied fruits ... 32 
 
 Pj icklin^; of fruits IT 
 
 Quince in brandy . . . . 57 
 
 " candied 31> 
 
 " cordial . . • . 84 
 
 " crystalized . . . .40 
 
 " glaces. • ... 40 
 
 juice .... 68 
 
 •• syrnp 70' 
 
 '* in sjrup .... 19^ 
 
 Raspberry cordial . . . . .82 
 
 " distilled water . . . 8T 
 
 " juice 69 
 
 " pulp 16 
 
 " syrup extract ... 73 
 
 Raspberries in sj rup .... 24 
 Eed currant juice .... 67 
 
 Red currimt syrup extract ... 73. 
 
INDEX— Ffui/s CordinuiJ. 
 
 vu 
 
 Bed currants in syrup 
 
 . 21 
 
 Rhubarb in syrup .... 
 
 28 
 
 Rhubarb in water .... 
 
 . 16 
 
 Rose cordial 
 
 86 
 
 Rose syrup 
 
 .72 
 
 Rose syrup (oriental) 
 
 75 
 
 Rose water 
 
 . 87 
 
 Rum syrup 
 
 71 
 
 Spirit fruit 
 
 . 8b 
 
 Strawberries in brandy 
 
 61 
 
 Strawberries candied 
 
 . 44 
 
 Strawberry cordial .... 
 
 83 
 
 Strawberries crystalized 
 
 45 
 
 " distilled water 
 
 87 
 
 " glaces .... 
 
 45 
 
 " juice. .... 
 
 69 
 
 " pulp .... 
 
 16 
 
 " spirit 
 
 88 
 
 " syrup extract 
 
 72 
 
 " syrup fresh fruit 
 
 70 
 
 " in syrup .... 
 
 23 
 
 Sugar foam waste, saviug of . 
 
 66 
 
 Sugar with fruits from a chemical poii 
 
 t 
 
 of view 
 
 37 
 
 Sugar syrup 
 
 52 
 
 Sugar syrup clarification 
 
 65 
 
 Sugar syrup preparation 
 
 65 
 
 Syrup of cognac 
 
 71 
 
 
 ' extract formula 
 
 72 
 
 
 ' fancy 
 
 70 
 
 
 ' of fresh fruit . 
 
 . 70 
 
 
 ' fruits .... 
 
 65 
 
 
 ' grape .... 
 
 . 70 
 
 
 ' keeping of stock . 
 
 67 
 
 
 * of kirschenwasser puni h 
 
 . 70 
 
 
 ' marshmallow 
 
 71 
 
 
 ' of orange flower 
 
 .72 
 
 
 ' preparation 
 
 65 
 
 
 ' by the extracts 
 
 . 72 
 
 
 ' of quince .... 
 
 70 
 
 
 • of rose .... 
 
 . 72 
 
 
 ' of rose (oriental) . 
 
 75 
 
 
 ' I f rum .... 
 
 . 71 
 
 
 ' - of fresh strawberries . 
 
 70 
 
 
 sugar and glucose 
 
 .52 
 
 
 * of vanilla .... 
 
 76 
 
 
 ' of violet (genuine) . 
 
 . 71 
 
 
 ' of violet (imitation) 
 
 7<) 
 
 Vanilla cordial . . • . . 
 
 . 86 
 
 Vanilla infusion 
 
 89 
 
 Va 
 
 nilla syrup 
 
 . 76 
 
 "NHolet cordial 
 Vi'let syrnp (Pennine) 
 Violet syrup (imitation) 
 Water (a bumen) 
 Water (distilled fruit) . 
 Waterm> Ion candied 
 Wiesbaden fruits . 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 .\ction of brine on bacillus 
 
 Air enclosed in cans and jars . 
 
 Air space in JHrs 
 
 Artichoke bottom 
 
 Articloke canning 
 
 Artichokes in salt 
 
 Asparngus canning . 
 
 Asparagus cieam 
 
 Asparagus processing 
 
 Asparagus tips .... 
 
 Bacteriology applied to canning 
 
 Blanching kettlf* 
 
 Blanching vegetables . 
 
 Bottles for ketchup . 
 
 Brine for peas 
 
 Brine sweet .... 
 
 Brus-els sprouts canning 
 
 Canning vegetables . 
 
 Can ots in butter . 
 
 Carrot cannings 
 
 Cauliflower canning 
 
 Cauliflower cream 
 
 Ciuliflowers in salt 
 
 Celery canning 
 
 C'clery cream .... 
 
 Copper for green vegetables. 
 
 Corn canning .... 
 
 Cucumbers in palt 
 
 Glass (processing) . 
 
 Green vegetables 
 
 Horseradish mustiird 
 
 Jars sealing . . . . 
 
 Jars, temperature of processing 
 
 •June peas, French style 
 
 Ketchup, tomato 
 
 Ketile for blanching . 
 
 Lima beans, canning 
 
 Muhhrooms .... 
 
 Mu>hroomg in butler 
 
 PAGE 
 
 86 
 
 yi 
 
 . 76 
 66 
 
 . 87 
 67 
 
 . 18 
 
 96 
 . 99 
 106 
 124 
 123 
 131 
 114 
 186 
 . 115 
 115 
 92 
 109 
 107 
 130 
 111 
 111 
 122 
 107 
 12& 
 115 
 121 
 186 
 . 132 
 . 1J6 
 186 
 107 
 118 
 131 
 . 99 
 107 
 . 137 
 103 
 
 . loa 
 
 126 
 129 
 109 
 113 
 119 
 . 127 
 
INDtX— I'tgeiubt'S Cofttiiiwd.' 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 3 
 
 PAAB 
 
 Mnshroom eanninp; .... 
 
 120 
 
 String beans in salt .... 
 
 130 
 
 Mushroom raising .... 
 
 . 119 
 
 Sulphite in suit brine .... 
 
 132 
 
 Mustard 
 
 1'4 
 
 Sweet brine 
 
 111 
 
 " anchovy . 
 
 . 136 
 
 Temperature for processing glass 99-106 
 
 " English prepared .- — .- 
 
 .134. 
 
 •Tomatoes canning .... 
 
 116 
 
 " English process 
 
 . 134 
 
 Tomato catsup .... 
 
 129 
 
 «' fancy French 
 
 135 
 
 Tomnto catsup, special spices 
 
 129 
 
 '•' French prepared . 
 
 .135^ 
 
 T«,mato mustard .... 
 
 137 
 
 *' French process 
 
 l:;4 
 
 Tomatoes in ^ alt. . . 
 
 132 
 
 ** German prepared . 
 
 135 
 
 Tomato sauce 
 
 127 
 
 " green 
 
 . 37 
 
 Tomatoes (whole) .... 
 
 116 
 
 " horseradish . 
 
 137 
 
 Turnips, canning .... 
 
 115 
 
 " imperial . 
 
 136 
 
 Vegetables, canning .... 
 
 107 
 
 " tomato .... 
 
 137 
 
 Vegetables, blanching 
 
 107 
 
 natural green vegetables . 
 
 107 
 
 Vtgt-tables, pacldcjg in glass 
 
 106 
 
 Packing vegetables in jars 
 
 . 106 
 
 Vegetables (ready prepared) . 
 
 125 
 
 Peas (brine) 
 
 111 
 
 Vegetables, preserved in salt 
 
 130 
 
 Peas canning . . . 
 
 . 110 
 
 " " " artichokes 
 
 131 
 
 Peas, French style 
 
 126 
 
 " " cauliflower 
 
 132 
 
 Peas with ham or bacon 
 
 126 
 
 '' " " cucumbers 
 
 131 
 
 Pea soup 
 
 . 186 
 
 " " string beans 130 
 
 Pickling . . . ... 
 
 132 
 
 " " " tomatoes 
 
 132 
 
 Pickling vinegar .... 
 
 . 133 
 
 Vegetable processing, general rule 
 
 113 
 
 Plum pudding canning . ... 
 
 128 
 
 Vinegar for pickling 
 
 133 
 
 Potatoes (new) canning 
 
 117 
 
 
 
 Prepared vegetables 
 
 . 125 
 
 
 
 
 
 " carrots 
 
 12(5 
 
 
 
 " mushrooms . 
 
 . 127 
 
 SALT ADD FRESH WATER FISH. 
 
 " peas . 
 
 125 
 
 
 
 " sorrel . 
 
 . 125 
 
 Anchovy mustard . . 
 
 136 
 
 " spinach 
 
 127 
 
 Crawfish, whole .... 
 
 149 
 
 " tomato sauce 
 
 . 327 
 
 Crawfish soup 
 
 187 
 
 Processing in glass 
 
 9'J 11 6 
 
 (Crawfish (tails) .... 
 
 149 
 
 Processing vegetables, general rule 
 
 113 
 
 Fish canning 
 
 138 
 
 Pumpkins packing 
 
 . 125 
 
 Fish in couit bouillion 
 
 146 
 
 Red cabbage (pickling) . . . 
 
 133 
 
 Fish (fresh water) .... 
 
 145 
 
 Salt brine .... 
 
 . 96 
 
 Fisii in matelote .... 
 
 146 
 
 Salt brine with sulphite . 
 
 132 
 
 Herrings 
 
 144 
 
 Sauce (tomato) .... 
 
 . 127 
 
 Herrings in oil 
 
 144 
 
 Sauerkraut, cooking and canning . 
 
 191 
 
 Herrings (Russian) .... 
 
 145 
 
 Sauerkraut, its preparation 
 
 . 191 
 
 Hen ings in vinegar 
 
 146 
 
 Sauerkraut, with eausiige and ham . 
 
 192 
 
 Lobster 
 
 147 
 
 Sealing of jars .... 
 
 . 103 
 
 Lob.stt-r soup . . . 
 
 186 
 
 Sealing < atsiip bottles 
 
 130 
 
 Mackerel 
 
 144 
 
 Sorrel in butter .... 
 
 . 127 
 
 Mack(rei in oil . . ... 
 
 144 
 
 Sorrel canning 
 
 123 
 
 Mackerel in vinegar .... 
 
 144 
 
 Spices for catsup 
 
 . 1-9 
 
 Mussi Is ..... . 
 
 151 
 
 Spinach in butter .... 
 
 i27 
 
 Mussels, pickling .... 
 
 151 
 
 Spinach canning .... 
 
 . 123 
 
 Oysters ...... 
 
 150 
 
 Sprouts (Brusels) canning 
 
 22 
 
 Oysters, other mettiod . 
 
 . 1£0 
 
 String beans, <mnning . 
 
 . 112 
 
 Oysters, pickling . . . 
 
 150 
 
INDEX*' .Si?f and Fresk Water- Fish CdnHhwd. 
 
 PAQB 
 
 
 PAOK 
 
 Pickling mussels 151 | 
 
 Chicken in jelly .... 
 
 . 176 
 
 Pickling oysters .... 15(T 
 
 " pate 
 
 189 
 
 Salmon 142 
 
 " (roasted whole) 
 
 . 176 
 
 Salmon in glass boxes . . . 143 
 
 Clarification of meat jelly with blood 
 
 172 
 
 Salmon in oil 143 
 
 Clarificati. n of meat jelly with eggs 
 
 173 
 
 Sardines 138 
 
 Duck 
 
 177 
 
 " cooking in dry steam . . 139 
 
 Duck pat« ; 
 
 189 
 
 " frying in oil . . , 139 
 
 Game . • . ... 
 
 173 
 
 " in glass boxes . . . .140 
 
 Goose in jelly 
 
 .177 
 
 " processing in tins and jars 141 
 
 Goose pate 
 
 189 
 
 " seasoning of the oil . .142 
 
 Goose roasted 
 
 178 
 
 " with tomato sance . . 142 
 
 Hare pate . . . . 
 
 188 
 
 Shrimp 148 
 
 Hare stew, English st^le 
 
 175 
 
 Shrimp soup 187 
 
 Hare stew. French style 
 
 174 
 
 
 Iltadcheese 
 
 . 190 
 
 
 
 Jellies with isinglass .... 
 
 173 
 
 
 Jellies of meat 
 
 . 172 
 
 MILK. 
 
 Ment canning 
 
 158 
 
 
 Meat jelly 
 
 . 172 
 
 Contaminated milk .... 157 
 
 Meat jelly, clarification with blood 
 
 172 
 
 
 Meat jelly, clarification wi h eggs 
 
 . 173 
 
 Milk 152 
 
 Mnck turtle soup .... 
 
 185 
 
 Milk and bacteria .... 152 
 
 Mutton French stew 
 
 . 171 
 
 Milk composition ..... 152 
 
 " Irish stew .... 
 
 171 
 
 Milk preserving 154 
 
 '• roast mutton . 
 
 . 170 
 
 Milk sterilizing .... 154 
 
 " tongue .... 
 
 171 
 
 Ptomaines in milk 155 
 
 Partridges 
 
 180 
 
 Tetanus bacteria .... 157 
 
 Paste, potted meats 
 
 190 
 
 Typhoid bacteria 156 
 
 Pates 
 
 187 
 
 
 Pate of chicken .... 
 " of duck 
 
 189 
 189 
 
 , 
 
 
 ' ' of goose 
 
 . 189 
 
 MEiTS, FOWL, GAME, SADCES, 
 
 ' ' of hare 
 
 " headcheese .... 
 
 188 
 . 190 
 
 SOUPS, POTTED HEATS, POniTRY. 
 
 " of pork 
 
 " of rabl.it .... 
 
 188 
 . 189 
 
 Beef braise 160 
 
 " of turkey 
 
 189 
 
 " corned beef .... 158 
 
 " of veal 
 
 . 187 
 
 •' honeycomb tripe 163 
 
 " of venison . . . • . 
 
 189 
 
 '• a la mode .... 161 
 
 Pheasant, fancy style 
 
 179 
 
 " oxtail soup .... 184 
 
 Pheasant, roasted .... 
 
 . 179 
 
 " English roast beef . . 161 
 
 Pork pate 
 
 188 
 
 " Sliced beef in glass jars . .168 
 
 " bacon sliced in glass jars. 
 
 168 
 
 Steaks I'll 
 
 ' ' pork chops .... 
 
 . 165 
 
 <■<■ Tongues 162 
 
 " roast pork .... 
 
 165 
 
 " Tongues in glass j.irs . 1C2 
 
 " sliced ham in glass jars 
 
 . 168 
 
 " Tongues f-moked . . 163 
 
 " tongues 
 
 170 
 
 Brown stock for sauce . . . 181 
 
 Potted meats .... 
 
 . 187 
 
 Canning of meats .... l.'iS 
 
 Potted meat paste 
 
 . 190 
 
 ■Chicken consomme .... 184 
 
 Prepared salt .... 
 
 . 168 
 
 " fancy style . . . .176 
 
 1 QiiMils 
 
 179 
 
X INDEX-.lfec 
 
 its, Fowl, 
 
 Game ec, Coniinutd. 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Xtabbit pate . . . . 
 
 . 189 
 
 Soups, cream of cauliflower . 
 
 186 
 
 Babbit stew 
 
 175 
 
 ' 
 
 cream of celery 
 
 . 186 
 
 Sauces 
 
 . 180 
 
 ' 
 
 mock turtle . 
 
 185 
 
 " becbasiel 
 
 183 
 
 ' 
 
 oxtail 
 
 . 184 
 
 " brown stock sauce . 
 
 . 181 
 
 ' 
 
 pea soup 
 
 185 
 
 " canning of . 
 
 183 
 
 ' 
 
 potage prlntanier 
 
 , 184 
 
 " cream .... 
 
 . 183 
 
 ' 
 
 processing . 
 
 187 
 
 . " game 
 
 181 
 
 ( 
 
 tomato Roup 
 
 . 186 
 
 ■ " Godard .... 
 
 . 181 
 
 ' 
 
 turtle .... 
 
 185 
 
 " Italian . . . . 
 
 183 
 
 " vegetable . 
 
 . 184 
 
 " pepper .... 
 
 . 182 
 
 Spices for meats 
 
 167 
 
 " Perigueux .... 
 
 . 182 
 
 Squabs 
 
 . 180 
 
 " piquante 
 
 . 182 
 
 Turkey pate . . . 
 
 . 189 
 
 
 . 183 
 
 Turkey roatted 
 
 . 178 
 
 " tomato sauce . 
 
 . 127 
 
 Turtle sauce .... 
 
 182 
 
 " turtle 
 
 182 
 
 Turtle soup 
 
 . 185 
 
 '• white .... 
 
 . 183 
 
 Turkey stewed .... 
 
 . 178 
 
 " white stock for sauce . 
 
 183 
 
 Veal, cutltts 
 
 . 164 
 
 Sausages Lorraine 
 
 . 165 
 
 Veal pate 
 
 187 
 
 " Lyon .... 
 
 166 
 
 Veal, roast . . . . 
 
 . 164 
 
 *' Salami .... 
 
 . 16G 
 
 Venison pate . . . . 
 
 . 189 
 
 JSliced meat in glass jars . 
 
 168 
 
 Venison steak .... 
 
 173 
 
 Soups 
 
 . 181 
 
 White stock for sauce . 
 
 . 183 
 
 " bisque of crawfish 
 
 187 
 . 187 
 
 
 
 
 " bisque of lobster 
 
 
 
 " bisque of shrimp 
 
 187 
 
 BEER, 
 
 
 ** consomme 
 
 . 184 
 
 
 " cream of asparagus 
 
 186 
 
 Preserving of beer . 
 
 192 
 
 " consomme of chicken 
 
 . 184 
 
 Sealing and pasteurizatiou . 
 
 . 19a 
 
The Sprague Canning Mac i!im:r\ Company, Chicago, III. 
 
 THE MERKELL-Sv^U'l.E RUTARY CORN SILKER. 
 
 We make a specialty of Corn Canning Machinery and Capping Machinery, a^nil 
 no Corn Canning Plant is complete without machines of our make. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUE. 
 
The Sprague Canning Machinery Company, Chicago, III. 
 
 THE BURNHAM CORN COOKER AND FILLER. 
 
 We also manufacture the well known Merrell-Soule line 
 and the Conant line of Corn Cooker-Fillers. The Stickney 
 Corn Mixers and the Merrell-Soule Double Corn Mixers. 
 
 We equip Corn Canning Plants complete Whth everything 
 needed for their operation. 
 
 Send for Catalogues of our celebrated Hawkin's Capping 
 Machine which is the great connecting link in modern auto- 
 matic canning plants. 
 
The Sprague Canning Machinery Company, Chicago, III. 
 
 THE STEVENS TOW ER lOMATO Fll.Ltk. 
 
 THE CYCLONE rri,r MACHINE. 
 
 We equip Tomato and Fruit Canning Plants complete^ 
 Send for Catalogue of our Continuous Automatic Tomato- 
 Canning Machinery. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUES. 
 
The Sprague Canninc; Machinery Company, Chicago, III. 
 
 We manufacture a full line of Pressure Process Kettles'arid 
 Crates, Square Steam Chests and Open Kettles. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUES. 
 
The Sprague Canning Machinery Company, Chicago, III* 
 
 COPPER JACKET KETTLES (ALL SIZES). 
 
 ROl'ARY PEACH PARER. 
 
 EUREKA POWER APPLE PARER. 
 
 We handle a full line of all Copper Utensils for preserves 
 — Aluminum Jacket Kettles, Hydrometers, etc. 
 
 Also Evaporator's Machinery and Supplies of all kinds — 
 Parers, Slicers, Bleachers, etc. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUES. 
 
The Sprague Canning MACHiNtitv Company, Chicago, III 
 
 AIR PUMPS. 
 (all sizes.) 
 
 OAeOLlNEPlPE 
 
 AlRPlPl 
 
 GASOLINR AND ATR TANKS. 
 (Alsir SRtS.) 
 
 SPECIAL DOUBLE MOUTH GAS FIRE POT. 
 
 We furnish Heating Systems complete — (Gas, Gasoline or 
 Kerosene) — Gas Machines, Tanks, Pumps, Fire Pots and 
 ^yrners, 
 
The Sprague Canning Machinery Company, Chicago, III 
 
 FLOOR TRUCKS. 
 
 ( ALL SIZES.) 
 
 We manufacture Power Cranes and Power Hoists, also a 
 special Bug^gy Truck for handling Crates. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUES. 
 
The Sprague Canning Machinery Company, Chicago, III. 
 
 Sundries for Canners and Preservers. 
 
 — — — jf — 
 
 If it is used in the work of Canning or Pre- 
 serving we handle it. 
 
 SEND FOR CATALOGUES, 
 
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW 
 
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 WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
 THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
 WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
 DAY AND TO $I.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
 OVERDUE. 
 
 JM^^22Jim 
 
 ^^^ s mi 
 
 Jl^I^i O 1943 
 
 M 
 
 SEP 4 1645 
 
 Tff r r.v^ 9 R 
 
 I .OCT 21987 
 
 i nniii B cjUN 2 219 8 7 
 
 LD 21-20m-5, '39 (9269s) 
 
iO 03816 
 
 GENERAL LIBRARY -U.C. BERKELEY 
 
 I 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY