^lOS ANGELA E= 00 =0 > NATIONAL PROVIDENT INSTITUTION, FOR MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE. 48, Gracechurch Street, London. DIRECTORS. WILLIAM JOHN- BARRON, Esq. ,; AI.KRKD E. PKASK, Esq., M.P. AUGUSTINE BIRRELL, Esq., Q.C., M.P. 5 CLARK SKWKLL READ, Esq., Trustee. JOSEPH FELL CHRISTY, Esq., Trust'?.. SIR PETER SPOKKS. ROBEKT MAYNE CURTIS, Esq., Trustee. fD GEORGE CRISPE WHITELEY, Esq. ROBERT E. DICKINSON, Esq., M.P. h> ALDERMAN SIR WALTER H. WILKIN, CHARLES W. C. BUTTON, Esq. K.C.M.G. ROBERT LEAKE, Esq. "'< WILLIAM H. WILLANS, Esq., Trustee. MEDICAL OFFICERS. T. HENRY GRELN, Esq., M.D. | JOHN CROFT, Esq., F.R.G.S. Solicitor THO.S. MvDDLETON MORRIS, Esq. AUDITORS. W. C. JACKSON, Esq., F.C.A. | G. HOLLAND NEWTON, Esq. | WM. CASH. Ksq., F.C.A. Assistant Actuary L. F. HOYIL. Agency Manager- C. I. CROFT. Accumulated Funds nearly 5,400,000 Fronts Divided 5,400,000 Claims Paid nearly 11,000,000 Gross Annual Income 650,000 The Profits are Divided every Five Years among the Members, without any deduction for dividends to Shareholders. At the last (1897) Division of Profits 714-,39O Cask Profit was apportioned amongst the Members, being nearly 87 per cent, of the amount paid in premiums during the previous Five Years. There were then nearly 1,OOO Policies in respect of which not only were the premiums entirely extinguished, but Cash Bonuses were also paid, whilst in the case, of many Policies the original Sums assured are. now more than doubled by the Bonus Additions. Endowment. Assurance Policies are issued combining Life Assurance at Minimum Cost with Provision for Old -\.u>-. The, practical effect of these Policies in the National Provident Institution is that the Member's life is assured until he reaches the age agreed upon, and on his leaching that age the whole; of the Premiums paid are returned to him, and a isiderable. sum in addition, representing a by no means Insignificant rate of interest on his payments. ARTHUR SMITH ER, Actuary and Secretary. April, 1900. : APPLICATIONS FOR AGENCIES INVITED. G REAT NORTHERN -^ RAILWAY. The Direct Route from . . CAMBRIDGE MANCHESTER HALIFAX CROMER LIVERPOOL YORK LINCOLN GRIMSBY NEWCASTLE NOTTINGHAM HULL AND ALL PARTS OF DERBY WAKEFIELD THE NORTH OF SHEFFIELD LEEDS ENGLAND AND HUDDERSFIELD BRADFORD SCOTLAND to London & South of England FOR THE CONTINENT. Sleeping Carriages are attached to all night trains to and from Scotland. Luncheon or Dining Cars (1st and 3rd Class), are attached to certain Express Trains between Edinburgh, Newcastle, Manchester, Stockport, Sheffield, Leeds, Nottingham, and LONDON. Tourist Tickets are issued from the Principal Places on and in connection with the GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY to the SOUTH OF ENGLAND. Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, Farm House and Country Lodging Lists (during the Summer Months), Holiday Leaflets (price Id.), may be obtained on application to Mr. J. Alexander, Superintendent of the Line, King's Cross Station, London. CHARLES STEEL, London, King'a Cross, April, 1900. General Manager. NEAL'S LIBRARY. English Stationery Depdt. AFTERNOON TEA AND READING ROOMS. THE ENGLISH EXCHANGE AND TOURISTS' GENERAL INFORMATION BUREAU. 248, RUE DE RIVOLI, PARIS. PEURLY. atcst Frcncb Creations. 21, AVENUE DE L'OPERA, PARIS. ^ __ ___ __ _______ ^ AGENCE JPRENT. Established 4O Years, 138 appointment to tfjr Urtttsfi Embassy. \\0\iSt I^HO tSTfat K&tmS. VJ\Ut kHQ ^RkUDX MtRCHKHTS K?^^VltHTS, VVi^H\SHQ ^0 ViU?\)9,H \S\\tO. CHkTtkViX, \I\V\-KS, KHO ^k^N\S. 252, RUE DE RIVOLI, PARIS. - - PARIS EXHIBITION, 19OO - - NOTICE TO CATHOLICS. BOARDING HOUSE FOR WELL RECOMMENDED YOUNG GENTLEMEN. Private Rooms and Suites if required. EVERY ACCOMMODATION, BILLIARDS, LIBRARY, ETC. Terms from Two Guineas Per Week. APPLY TO THE BROTHER DIRECTOR HOTEL DES FRANCS BOURGEOIS, 2I2, RUE ST. ANTOINE, PARIS. Within easy access of all parts of the city. OASSELL'S . : ;;'; GUIDE TO PARIS WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK cfr MELBOURNE 1901 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Stack Annex OO i PREFACE. IN producing this revised and cheaper edition of CASSELL'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO PARIS the Publishers' one object has been to improve all the special features which ensured the success of the former issue, and to offer to the public a thoroughly useful and accurate Handy Pocket Guide for the general visitor, who, though not desiring to have his holiday spoilt by wearisome detail, still does not wish to miss anything worth seeing. All suggestions for rendering future editions of the Guide still more useful, and any corrections of inaccuracies in the present volume will be most thankfully received by the Publishers. - HOLIDAY PHOTOGRAPHY. No holiday is perfect without a means of photographing interesting places and inci- dents. Kodak cameras are light, compact, and eminently suited for all holiday-makers, ladies, cyclists, etc. Kodaks are mastered in a few minutes and require no dark room for changing the films Kodaks from 53. to 7 75. Of all photographic dealers, or of KODAK, Limited, 43, Clerkenwell Road, LONDON, E.G.; 60, Cheapside, E.G.; 115, Oxford Street, W. ; 171-173, Regent Street, W. ; 59, Brompton Road, S.W. Also at 96, Bold Street, Liverpool ; and 72-74, Buchanan Street, Glasgow. THERE IS NO KODAK BUT THE EASTMAN KODAK. CONTENTS PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS : THE RAILWAYS OF SCOTLAND GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, THE EAST COAST ROUTE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN- RAILWAY, THE WEST COAST ROUTE MIDLAND RAILWAY GREAT CENTRAL RAILWAY GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY LONDON AND SOUTH WESTERN- RAILWAY THE ROYAL MAIL AND EXPRESS ROUTES BE- TWEEN LONDON AND PARIS SOUTH EASTERN AND CHATHAM RAILWAY, DOVER-CALAIS ROUTE FOLKESTONE-BOULOGNE ROUTE LONDON, BRIGHTON AND SOUTH COAST RAILWAY, NEWHAVEN-DIEPPE ROUTE LONDON AND SOUTH WESTERN RAILW AY, SOUTHAMPTON-HAVRE ROUTE ... ... ... 1 PART II. PARIS, ITS CHIEF FEATURES, CHARACTER- ISTICS, AND HISTORY : MODERN PARIS, THE BOULEVARDS, PRINCIPAL STREETS, PLACES, AND SQUARES, THE SEINE, CEINTURE AND METROPOLITAN RAILWAYS, THE CITE AND ITS HISTORY 25 PART III. SIGHTS OF PARIS : PRINCIPAL MONUMENTS, MUSEUMS, AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST 49 PART IV. HOW TO SEE PARIS : 1. THINGS THE VISITOR SHOULD KNOW ... ... ... 139 2. How TO DIVIDE UP ONE'S TIME ... ... ... ... 145 PART V. SUBURBS OF PARIS: CHANTILLY, FONTAINEBLEAU, ST. GERMAIN, ST. CLOUD, SEVRES, VERSAILLES, ETC. ... ... 147 PART VI. USEFUL INFORMATION : AMUSEMENTS, BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS, DIVINE SERVICES IN ENGLISH, POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS, WEIGHTS AJJD MEASURES, ETC. ETC. ... ... ... ... ... 161 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS The Paris Opera House Fronds, Peterborough Cathedral . . 4 The Cathedral, Lichfield . . ~ 7 St. Albans Cathedral . .10 St. Mary's Church, Nottingham 11 Lincoln Cathedral . . .12 The West Front, Exeter Cathedral 1 3 Salisbury Cathedral . . .14 The Castle Gardens, Rochester . 17 Canterbury Cathedral . .17 The Hotel de Ville, Calais . . 19 The Harbour, Folkestone . . 20 Boulogne 20 The Beach, Dieppe ... 22 Winchester Cathedral . . 23 Havre . . . . .23 Church of St. Ouen, Rouen . 24 View of La Cite and Notre Dame 27 Place de la Concorde . . .29 Boulevard Malesherbes and the Church of St. Augustin . 33 Place de la Republique . . 36 General View of Paris . . 39 Pont au Change and Palais de Justice . . . .43 Paris in the Seventeenth Century 45 The Palais du Luxembourg . 47 Arc de Triomphe de I'fitoile . 51 In the Bois de Boulogne . . 61 The Bourse .... 68 Musee Carnavalet . . .67 Avenue des Champs ISlysees . 71 Sainte Chapelle : The Upper Chapel .... 74 The Tour St. Jacques . . 79 The Madeleine .... 81 The Cathedral of Notre Dame . 85 The Pantheon .... 87 The Pantheon from the Luxem- bourg Gardens . . .88 The Sorbonne . . . .92 The Musee Cluny . .95 The Chamber of Deputies . . 99 Entrance to the Palace de Pfilysee -102 L' Avenue des Gobelins . .103 Statue of Napoleon . . . 105 H6tel des Invalides . . .106 The Institute . . . .112 The Louvre . . . .117 The Louvre: The Apollo Gallery 119 Grand Staircase of the Opera House 127 From the Roof of the Opera House 128 The Gardens of the Palais Royal 133 Porte St. Martin . . .136 The Trocade"ro . . . .146 The Chateau of Chantilly . .149 The Palace of Fontainebleau . 153 The Odeon 164 The Theatre Franqais . .165 In the Paris Fruit Market . .170 The Prison of La Sante . 174 GENERAL INDEX Amusements, 161 Arc du Carrousel, 49 Arcdel'fitoile, 49 Archives Nationales, 52 Arrival in Paris, 1 39 Asnieres, 147 Assistance Publique, 166 Asylum for the Blind, 53 Avenue de 1'Opera, 34 Balls, 161 Bank of France, 53 Baths, 164 Barracks, 54 Bastille, Place de la, 54 Beaux Arts, ficole des, 56 Beaux Arts, Palais des, 56 Beggars, 166 Benevolent Institutions, 166 Bibliotheque de 1'Arse- nal, 56 Bibliotheque Mazarine, 57 Bibliotheque Nationale, 67 Bibliotheque Ste. Gene- vi^ve, 59 Bibliotheque de la Ville, 59 Bicycling, 162 Billiards, 161 Blind Asylum, 53 Bois de Boulogne, 69 Bois de Vincennes, 63 Bookstalls, 167 Boulevards, 32 Boulogne-sur-Seine, 147 Bourse, 64 Bridges and Quays, 37 British Charitable Fund, 166 British Schools, 166 Bullier, 161 Buttes Chaumont, 64 Cabs, 139 Cafe Concerts, 162 Cafes, 139 Caisses d'fipargne, 166 Cards, 161 Carna valet, 66 Catacombs, 67 Ceinture Railway, 38 Cemeteries : Montmartre, 68 Mont Parnasse, 68 Pere Lachaise, 68 Picpus, 69 Chabrol, Eue, 145 Chambre des Deputes, 97 Champ de Mars, 69 Champs Elysees, 70 Chantilly, 147 Charenton, 147 Chatelet, Place du, 72 Chatou, 147 Chess, 161 Chiffonniers, 174 Churches (Roman Catho- lic) : Assomption, 72 Chapelle Expiatoire, 75 Chapelle, La Sainte, 73 Chapelle St. Ferdi- nand, 75 Invalided, 78 Churches (continued) : Madeleine, 80 Notre Dame, 83 Notre Dame de Lor- ette, 86 Notre Dame des Vic- toires, 86 Pantheon, 87 Passionist Fathers, Church of the, 168 Sacre Coaur, 91 Sorbonne, 91 St. Augustin, 72 St. Bernard, 72 Ste. Clotilde, 75 St. fitienne du Mont, 76 St. Eustache, 76 St. Francois Xavier, 77 Ste. Genevieve, 77 St. Germain 1'Auxer- rois, 77 St. Germain des Pres, 77 St. Gervais, 78 St. Jacques, 80 St. Jean Baptiste, 80 St. Medard, 82 St. Merri, 83 St. . Nicolas d es Champs, 83 St. Philippe du Roule, 90 St. Sulpice, 91 St. Thomas d'Aquin, 92 St. Vincent de Paul, 93 GENERAL INDEX. Churches (continued) : , Trinite, La, 93 A r al de Grace, 93 Churches and Chapels, other Denominations : American Episcopal, j 168 American Protestant, 168 Anglican, Christ Church, 168 AnglicanEmbassy,168 Anglican(St.George's) 168 Baptist Services, 163 Church of Scotland, 168 Congregational Ser- vices, 168 Free Church of Scot- land, 168 Russian Church, 168 Wesleyan Chapel, 168 Cite, The, 40 Cites Ouvrieres, 166 Clamart, 147 Cluny, Husee de, 93 Colonne Vendome, 94 Commissionaires, 167 Compiegne, 147 Concerts, 162 Conciergerie, 96 Concierges, 167 Conseil d'fitat, 131 Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 96 Conservatoire de Mu- sique, 97 Corps Legislutif, 97 Creches, 166 Cremeries, 168 Dames de la Halle, 171 Disposal of Time, 145 Divine Services, 168 Dominoes, 162 Douane (Custom-house), 139 Dover-Calais Route, 17 Draughts, 162 Dupuytren, Musee, 98 Ecole de Medecine, 98 Ecole Militaire, 54 Ecole des Mines, 98 Egouts (Sewers), 100 Eiffel Tower, 101 Electric Lighting, 169 Ely see, Palais de 1', 101 Embassies and Consu- lates, 140 English Hospital, 167 English Orphanage, 167 Fencing, 162 Fishing, 162 Folkestone - Boulogne Route, 19 Fontainebleati, 150 Foreigners, 140 Galliera Museum, 101 Gas, 168 Gobelins, 104 Grand Prix, 162 Great Central Railway Route, 10 Great Eastern Railway Route, 11 Great Northern Railway Route, 2 Great Western Railway Route, 12 Guimet Museum, 105 Gymnastics, 163 Halle aux Bles, 170 Halle aux Yins, 171 Halles Centrales, 171 Hertford Hospital, 167 Historical Summary, 41 Hopitaux, 166 Horse Racing, 162 Hospices des Enfants Trouves, 166 Hotels, 141 Hotel Dieu, 105 Hotel des Postes, 109 Hotel de Ville, 109 Imprimerie Rationale, 111 Institut de France, 112 Interpreters, 141 Invalides, 105 Jardin d' Acclimatation, 113 Jardin des Plantes, 114 Laundries, 169 Libraries (see Biblio- theques) London, Brighton and South Coast Railway, 21 London and North Western Route, 5 London and South Western Railway. 14, 23 Longchamps, 162 Louvre, 115 Luxembourg, 122 Luxembourg, Picture Galleries, 123 Luxor Obelisk, 28 Lycees, 169 Maisons de Sante, 169 Markets : Birds, 169 Cattle, 169 Central Market, 169 Corn, 169 Dogs, 169 Flowers, 169 Horses, 169 Wine, 169 Metropolitain Railway, 38 Meudon, 153 Midland Route, 5 Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, 124 Modern Paris, 25 GUIDE TO PARIS. Money, 142 Monnaie, la (Mint), 124 Montmorency, 154 Mont Valerien, 157 Morgue, 125 Napoleon's Tomb, 105 Newhaven - Dieppe Route, 21 Newspapers, 142 Observatoire, 126 Octroi, 172 Omnibuses and Tram- ways, 142 Opera, 126 Palais Bourbon, 97 Palais des Beaux Arts, 56 Palais de 1'Industrie, 56 Palais de Justice, 129 Palais de la Legion d'Honneur, 131 Palais Royal, 131 Palais du Senat, 122 Panoramas, 163 Pantheon, 87 Pare Monceau, 134 Pierrefonds, 147 Places and Squares, 36 Place de la Concorde, 28 Place de la Nation, 138 Place de la Republique, 136 Place des Vosges, 36 Plan of Visit, 145 Police, 172 Porte St. Denis, 135 Porte St. Martin, 135 * Postal Arrangements, 173 Poste Restante, 173 Pourboires, 143 Principal Streets, 34 Prisons, 174 Railways (see Ceinture, Metropolitain) Restaurants, 143 Sapeurs Pompiers, 175 Savings Banks, 166 Seine, The, 37 Sevres, 158 Skating, 163 Sorbonne, 137 South Eastern and Chat- ham Railway Routes, 19 Southampton, 24 Southampton - Havre Route, 23 Squares, 36 St. Cloud, 157 St. Denis, 154 St. Germain, 156 Streets, Principal, 34 Suburbs of Paris, 147 Suresnes, 157 Swinlming, 163 Telegrams, 173 Tennis, 163 Theatres, 163 Thermometer, 175 Tobacco, 176 Tomb of Napoleon, 105 Tour St. Jacques, 79 Tramways, 142 Trianons, 160 Triomphe de la Repub- lique, 138 Trocadero, 138 Tuileries, 31 Vend6me Column, 94 Versailles, 158 Vincennes, 63 Weights and Measures, 176 Wine Shops, 176 CASSELL'S GUIDE TO PARIS. Part *, ROUTES TO PARIS. ,OT a year passes but thousands and tens of thousands of visitors, both from the Old World and the New, wend their way eagerly towards the beautiful city of Paris, which for ages has been recognised as the chief capital of Europe. The ancient history and the countless modern attractions of this gay Metropolis will be found to be picturesquely treated in the following profusely illustrated pages. But it may be helpful for British and American tourists travelling to Paris from distant cities of the United Kingdom to be furnished with an outline of the various o express routes by which they may reach their destination. Having first brought our readers as far as London, we purpose to travel onwards with them by way of the cathedral cities of Rochester and Canterbury to the ancient Cinque Port of Dover for the mail steamers to Calais : or to run through Tonbridge and the picturesque Weald of Kent to the fashionable watering-place of Folkestone for the express boats to Boulogne. By way of populous Croydon and the old county town of Lewes we may likewise proceed to Newhaven for the fast steamships to Dieppe ; while across the royal county of Hampshire, dominated by Winchester, 2 GUIDE TO PARIS. the old Saxon capital of England, we can approach South- ampton, whence we may sail to Havre and to Cherbourg, two well-known ports of Normandy, or to St. Malo, on the rock-girt coast of Brittany. From each of these six seaports of France travel express trains which alike carry through passengers to Paris. As a matter of fact, the four main lines from London respectively terminating at Dover, at Folkestone, at Newhaven, and at Southampton constitute the alternative routes which lie before the tourist desiring to travel between the English and the French capitals. The Presuming that our tourists come from the Railways ar north o f Scotland, they travel to Inverness over the picturesque trunk line of the " Highland Railway." From Inverness diverge two main line services, one of which "The Royal Mail Route" is supplied by the "Highland Railway" extending across the Grampians, through Blair Athole, Pitlochry, and Dunkeld to the city of Perth ; while the " HigMand" the " Great North of Scotland" and the "Caledonian" Railways unitedly afford an alternative road from Inverness to Perth by way of Elgin and Aberdeen. From Perth passengers travel by way of Dunblane and Stirling either to Glasgow, to Edinburgh, or to Carstairs Junction on the " West Coast " main line to the South. A second road from Aberdeen, extending through Montrose, Arbroath, and Dundee, is supplied by the " North British Railway" which runs direct expresses to Glasgow and to Edinburgh for the " East Coast Route." " Great The combination of great railway companies Northern w hi c h comprise the highly efficient "East Coast L7 ay ' Route" between England and Scotland has its The East Coast more northerly termini at Perth and Aberdeen. Route. We have already noticed the Companies' con- nections with 'Glasgow (Queen Street} and with Edinburgh, therefore at the Waverley Station of the Scottish PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. capital we resume our outline of the journey with one of their luxurious express and corridor dining-car trains which travel between Edinburgh and London by way of the cathedral cities of Durham, York, and Peterborough. The first section of our route lies over tho main line of the "North British Raihvay" After leaving the Waverley Station o.ir express journeys southwards by way of Dunbar and the ancient border town of Berwick-on-Tweed, where it runs on to the metals owned by the "North Eastern Railway." Hence over the Royal Border Bridge our train speeds along to the Northumbrian coast, passing, amongst other stations, Alnmouth, where the trunk road is joined by a branch from Alnwick, well known for its stately mediaeval castle, for centuries the seat of the Dukes of Northumber- land, and Morpeth, which owns connections with the pic- turesque Rothbury District, ere we reach the capital of Northumberland Newcastle-upon-Tyne. After receiving passengers from Tynemouth, North Shields, and South Shields, our express speeds southwards and passes the venerable city of Durham, where its grey Norman Cathe- dral and nineteenth century University crown the picturesque cliff that rises from the banks of the Wear. At Durham the " East Coast " trains can be joined by passengers from Sunderland, while southward, at Darlington, the main line is connected with the east by the branch from Stockton-on- Tees and Middlesbrough ; and with the west by the services from Barnard Castle and other stations of Teesdale. Still hastening onwards through Northallerton and Thirsk, we presently approach York, the metropolitan city of the Northern . Province. York is one of the most important railway centres of - the country, for here converge the various express services which traverse the North and the East Ridings of Yorkshire. The chief tributaries of passenger traffic are received in a north-easterly direction GUIDE TO PARIS. from Whitby and Scarborough via Malton ; from Hull, Beverley, and Bridlington via Market Weightou ; and from Ripon and Harrogate via Knaresborough. Soon after leaving York, the "East Coast" express runs by the ancient town of Selby, with its fine old monastic church on our right, and presently, at Shaftholme Junction runs on to the main line of the "Great Northern Railway" the southern Company of the "East Coast Route," shortly before it reaches the Yorkshire town of Doncaster. Here, again, is another great railway dep6t, where converge eastern lines from Hull and Goole, and western lines from Ripon, Harrogate, and Ilkley ; also from Rochdale, Huddersfield, Leeds, and the West Riding of Yorkshire. The next important station is Retford, on the " Great Northern " road from Liverpool, Manchester (Central Station), and Sheffield, by way of Worksop, while some distance farther southward is Grantham, where a junction is made with the alternative " Great Northern " route from Liverpool, Manchester (Central Station), and Sheffield by way of Nottingham. Here, too, the " Great Northern Railway " receives its passengers from .Derby, also from the city of Lincoln. At Essendine pas- sengefs from Stamford and Bourne, two old market towns of Lincolnshire, join our train, which then proceeds to -PETEBJWIIOL-GII CATKEPHAI. Peterborough, a photograph 6y Messrs. Poulton & Sin, lon.lon. the last 'Stop PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 5 for the fast trains to King's Cross. Peterboi'ough, with its ever interesting cathedral, is, in a traffic sense, chiefly noteworthy for its connections with the East Lincolnshire lines, which extend southwards from Grimsby, Boston, ar.d Spalding ; and for those railways of Norfolk which, -having their eastern termini at Yarmouth, Cromer, Norwich and Lynn, reach the " Great Northern " main line by way of Wisbech. The last stage of the "East Coast" journey from the North lies through Huntingdon and Hitchin, where a connection is e fleeted by a branch line with the University toAvn of Cambridge. Hath'eld, the ancestral home of the Marquess of Salisbury, is passed shortly afterwards, and then a rapid run of a few miles brings us to / insbnry Park, with its numerous services to the South of London, including those to London Bridge and to Victoria. Fiinlly, through the populous district of Holloway, we come to King's Cross, the headquarters of the " Great Northern Railway" whence passen- gers may proceed by the Company's omnibuses to Charing Cross or to Waterloo. (For further particulars of the "East Coast Route" readers are referred to "The Official Gidde to the Great Northern Raihcay."} "London O ur next journey from Glasgow, the com- and North mercial capital of Scotland, and from Edinburgh, Western its ever charming Metropolis, will be supplied Railway." by the West Coast R oute ," a conjunction of it TTT * n * services effected by the union that exists between "West Coast J Route." " iei "London and Aorth Western' and the "Caledonian" Railways. Their well-equipped express and corridor dining-car trains, starting from Glasgow (Central Station) and Edinburgh (Princes Street), alike travel to Carstairs Junction, where they are made up with the carriages from the Far North. Then, speeding away by Lamington, hard by Tin to Hill, we enter the watershed of the Upper Clyde and through the Evan GUIDE TO PARIS. Valley ascend to Beattock Summit, a thousand feet above the sea. Whence by Hart-fell, the little town of Lockerbie, and Ecclefechan, the birthplace of Thomas Carlyle, we pass to the romantic precincts of Gretna Green, cross the Sark, and OA r er northern Cumberland, approach Carlisle. At Carlisle the " West Coast " trains are joined by certain carriages which have travelled from Stranraer in connection with the " Short Sea Route " from Belfast via Larne, ere, speeding through pretty Cumbrian scenery, they soon come to the ancient market town of Penrith, where they can be joined by passengers from Whitehaven, Work- ington, and Keswick. Hastening southward, with the looming peaks of Lakeland on their right, the expresses travel across the granite hills of Shap to Tebay Junction, whence by the wildly picturesque scenery of the Dillicar and Tebay Fells, through which flows the silvery Lune, they reach Oxenholme Junction for the well-known gate to Windermere. Again onward by Carnforth, where the "Fnrness Railway" "brings in its passengers from White haven, Coniston, Barrow, and Lakeside, we run to the ancient town of Lancaster, still overlooked by the gateway of its huge mediaeval castle, Some twenty miles farther south- ward is Preston, on the banks of the Ribble, where the "West Coast" services are joined by passengers from Belfast, Fleetwood, and Blackpool, ere they proceed through Wigan and Warrington to Crewe, the chief railway town of Great Britain. Here we must briefly notice the various express services which find their common centre at Crewe. Far away in the west the various express services associated with the railway system of Ireland receive their quota of passengers from the terminal stations of Cork, Limerick, Gal way, Sligo, and Belfast, whence main lines converge either towards Kingston, towards Dublin, or towards Greenore, PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. whence swift steamers sail direct to Holyhead. From Holyhead travel the Royal Mail and Nortli Wall expresses, which after crossing the Menai Straits pass the cathedral city of Bangor and skirt the wave-washed coast of North Wales on their journey via the city of Chester to Ore we. Towards the same point converge the American expresses from Liverpool, likewise the various fast trains which leave Manchester and Stockport. Resuming our southern journey we shall at Stafford receive further tributaries of traffic from Shrewsbury and Central Wales, then speeding through the valley of the Trent we effect a junction with the supplement- ary road that extends from Manchester, by way of Stoke and the Pot- teries. Passing Lichfield, we perceive on our right the grace- ful spires of its mediaeval ca- thedral. The last pause usually made is at Rugby, to be remembered for its railway connections with the main line from Birmingham, Wolverhampton, Walsall, Coventry, and Leamington. Well within the space of two hours the "North Western" expresses', travelling either via the Kilsby Tunnel or -i^ia Northampton, run through Bletchley Junction, Berkhamsted, and Watford, to Willesden Junction. Here passengers can alight for THE CATHEDRAL, LICHFIELD. F om a photograph by Messrs. Poulton & Son, London. 8 GUIDE TO PARIS. various short services which afford access to the terminal stations of Victoria and Waterloo ; or by travelling direct to LONDON (Huston) they can join the Company's omnibus services, by which means those holding through tickets to the South are conveyed to Charing Cross or to Waterloo. (Full particulars of the " London and North Western " services can be obtained on reference to " The Official Guide to the London and North Western Railway."') "Midland Returning to the city of Glasgow, we Avill Railway." now f l escr ibe the road of the popular "Midland" dining and restaurant car expresses. These trains, which travel over the main line of the " Glasgow and South Western Railway " as far as Carlisle, traverse the countryside which has been immortalised by its intimate associations with the life and the writings of Scotland's peasant-poet Robert Burns. The road followed from Glasgow (St. Enoch Station} carries travellers firstly to Johnslone, where the trains can be joined by tourists from the Clyde and the Highlands. Thence they proceed to Kihnarnock, well known for its con- nections with Ardrossan and the Isle of Arran. Either at Kilmarnock or at Mauchline the trains -can be joined by passengers from Ayr, the birthplace of Burns, while at a succeeding station is the beautifully situated town of Dumfries, the scene of the poet's early and lamented death. After effecting a junction with the main line from Stranraer, over which travel "Midland" passengers from Belfast, and passing Annan, the expresses run to Carlisle. Before continuing our journey through Carlisle to the South we must repair to the city of Edinburgh, where those passengers who have departed in "Midland" carriages from Aberdeen, Dundee, and Perth resume their journeys through the picturesque Land of Scott to Leeds, Nottingham, Leicester, and London. After leaving Edinburgh (Waverley Station), the "Midland" express travels along the banks of PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. Gala Water ere it reaches Galashiels, where it can be joined by passengers from Selkirk and Peebles. A few miles farther southward is Melrose, the favourite headquarters of British and American tourists, who here alight to visit the lovely ruins of Melrose Abbey and the modern baronial home of Abbotsford, on the banks of the Tweed, where " The Wizard of the North " penned most of his world- famed novels. Near to St. Boswell's, the next station, are the picturesque ruins of Dryburgh Abbey, where repose the remains of the great writer. Then speeding by the Eilden Hills, we come to Hawick in the Teviot Valley, hard by the neighbourhood of Branksome Tower, the scene of the first canto in "The Lay of the Last Minstrel." Lastly, through the countryside of Liddlesdale and Eskdale our train speeds to Carlisle, where it effects a junction with the "Midland" portion which has been run from Glasgow. Leaving Carlisle, our train speeds through the lovely Eden Valley, with its grand view of the Lakeland mountains, ere passing Appleby, the capital of Westmorland, and running through the wild fells of Carsdale, Dentsdale, and Bibbles- dale, affording a matchless tract of moorland scenery, to the tiny market town of Settle, on the banks of the Ribble. Still travelling southward, we come to Hellifield, where the trains from the North can be joined by passengers from More- cambe and Lancaster, also by those from Belfast, Barrow, and Lakeside. Farther southward lie Skipton, Keighley, and the great manufacturing centres of Bradford and Leeds, whence we travel southward through Sheffield to Leicester, or to Nottingham and Kettering. At Trent, a few miles north of Leicester, a junction is effected with the important main line from Liverpool, Blackburn, Bolton, and Manchester, extending through the beautiful vales of the Wye and the Derwent, well known for the exquisite scenery of the 10 GUIDE TO PARIS. ST. ALTUNS CATHEDRAL. From a photograph liy Mr. Cheater Vavghan, Acton. Peak District and the Derby- shire dales, to Derby and Lei- cester. From Leicester the "Midland" ex- presses take their final run through Bed- ford and the old city of St. Albans to Ken- tish Town. Here we can change trains for the services to Victoria, or travel on to LONDON (St. Pancras), where those with through tickets to the South join the Company's omnibuses which are run to the railway termini of Charing Cross and Waterloo. (For farther infor- mation relating to the " Midland " services readers are referred to " The Official Guide to the Midland Railway."} "Great The latest main line from the great cities of Central Lancashire to London has been supplied by the Railway." construct j on o f tne Great Central Raihvay." This recently opened route, which by many is far better known under its original title of the " Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway" is, like the "Midland" and the " Great Northern " systems, connected by the metals of the " Cheshire Lines Committee " with the port of Liverpool. Starting from Manchester (London Road) in one of the Company's fine restaurant-car expresses^ we travel onwards by way of Woodhead to Sheffield, a busy centre of industry set amidst a framework of glorious sylvan scenery. Here the trains are joined liy passengers who have travelled PART 1. ROUTES TO PARIS. 11 from Grimsby and from Hull through the cathedral city of Lincoln, and by Work sop, well known as the chief centre for the mag- nificent scenery of "The Dukeries." Turning southward, they soon approach Nottingham, the ST - MARY ' S "intcii, NOTTINGHAM. headquarters of the From rt v llotl w a P h l u Messrs. Pouiton & So, London. lace manufacture, which is succeeded by Loughborough and Leicester, the hosiery capital of Leicestershire. Lastly, speeding onwards through Rugby and Aylesbury, the Company's new London terminus, known as Marylebone Road, is reached. "Great Another of the chief routes of travel from Eastern^ Scotland, the North of England, and Yorkshire to the City of London is afforded by the main road which extends from Doncaster through Gainsborough, the city of Lincoln, Sleaford, Spalding, and March. Over this favourite road travel the " Great Eastern " expresses, which, after effecting connections at York with the "East Coast " expresses from Aberdeen, Perth, Dundee, Glasgow, and Edinburgh by way of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Durham, and Darlington, and also with the " North Eastern " ex- presses from Scarborough and Harrogate, proceed to Don- caster. Thence speeding southwards by the cathedrals of Lincoln and Ely, they come to the University town of Cam- bridge, seated on the banks of the Cam, and some ninety minutes later reach LONDON (Liverpool Street or St. Pancras). Other main lines of the "Great Eastern Raihcay" are those GUIDE TO PARIS. LINCOLN CATHEUKAL. From a pliotograjih b-j Messrs. Poulton & Son, London. which respectively extend from the ancient cathedral city of Norwich via Ipswich and Colchester, or via Ely and Cam : bridge, while a third route from the east is that which, having its coast termini at Cromer, at Yai % - mouth, and at Lowestof t, extends through Ipswich, Colchester, Chelms- ford, and Stratford to LONDON (Liverpool Street], whence pass- engers can proceed by railway or omnibus to the termini of the three Companies which afford direct services between London and Paris. A supplementary route from London, Birmingham, Manchester, Sheffield, and York to Paris is aflonlcd by lines which lead direct to Parkeston Quay, whence sail the Company's steamships for the Hook of Holland, Rotterdam, and Antwerp, three ports which are connected with Paris by means of fast trains running to and from the city of Brussels. (Every information relating to the Company's system and its services will be found in " Tfie Official (hude to the (Ireat Eastern Kail way."} " Great When we refer to the trunk roads which Western^ turmuli routes from the West of England, South f" Wales, and the West Midlands, we have firstly to notice the express lines belonging to the " Great Western Railway" In the far west of Cornwall lies the seaside PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 13 terminus of Penzance, the most westerly station of Great Britain. From this port or from Falmouth we travel by the West of England expresses which run via the city of Truro, and along the picturesque Fal Valley to St. Austell, Liskeard, Devonport, and Plymouth. Onwards through Totnes and Newton Abbott, where our train receives passengers 7 from Dartmouth and Torquay, we travel by way of Teign- mouth and Dawlish to the cathedral city of Exeter. The next section of the journey carries us by Taunton, the ancient capital of Somersetshire, to Bristol. Running through Bath we come to Swindon, where a junction is effected with certain main lines respectively extending from Swansea, Cardiff', and Newport ; from Hereford and Gloucester ; and from Cheltenham. Finally our train during its long run, from Swindon speeds through the lovely Thames Valley tQ Reading, and thence pursues its course through Maidenhead, Taplow, and Slough ere it reaches LONDON (I'addinglon}. The " Great Western " route from Cheshire, North Wale?, and the Midlands next demands our notice. It is that by which passengers leaving Birken- head run through quaint old Chester to Wrexham and Ru abon. Heie our trains are joined by tourists from Barmouth, DolgeHy, Bala, and Llangollen ere they proceed to the town of Shrewsbury. Then THE WST FRONT, EXETER CATHEDRAL. hastening SOUth- FromapJioto^ipUby Huhon. H GUIDE TO PARIS. wards, we run by Wolverhampton, Birmingham, Warwick, Leamington, and Banbury to Didcot Junction, where we effect a union with the main line from the West, and pro- ceed over the same road to LONDON (Paddinyton Station), From Paddington numerous trains or omnibuses afford the means of communication throughout London. (Full particulars relating to the Company's territory and services may be found in " The, Official Guide to the Great Western Haihvay.") "London Another and highly popu- * -s. Snut.Vi South Western Railway." SALISBURY CATHEDHAL. lar main line from the West of England is supplied by the '''London and South Western Rail- way" a system which has its chief western terminus at the busy seaport of Plymouth. The course by which we From a photograph, ly Messrs. G. W. Wilson & Co., may travel direct to Aberdeen. . . . London is to join the express running by way of Tavistock and the borders of Dartmoor to the city of Exeter. A North Devon line from Ilfracombe, Bideford, and Barmouth effects a junction with the main route at Seaford Junction. Speeding away from Exeter we pass through various railway junctions with branch lines to the coast until Yeovil is reached, and Templecombe Junction, with its cross services to Bath and to Bourne- mouth. Ere long, running through Wilton, we come to the city of Salisbury, with its graceful Early English cathedral, and thence by way of Basingstoke and Woking we travel . to LONDON ( Waterloo). Frequent services of trains and omnibuses run thence to the City and the West PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 15 End. Two other " South Western " main Hues likewise converge towards LONDON ( Waterloo), the first of these being the road from Wey mouth, Bournemouth, Southampton, and Winchester ; while the second, known as the " Portsmouth Direct," affords a direct route from Hyde and the Isle of Wight to London by way of Portsmouth and Guildford. (Full descriptions of the Company s services are given in "The Official Guide to the "London and South Western Railway."} The Royal Having reached London by one of the trunk Mail and rO utes which alike converge thither from the Express jf ort j, the East an( j the West, we will now Sfirvicss between P ursue our journeys towards the city of Paris. London Where time is strictly limited and rapid transit and Paris, has become a question of importance, it is quite possible for us to leave Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dublin, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Sheffield, Birmingham, or any other of our larger cities in the early morning, to effect direct connections with the afternoon or the evening Continental expresses departing from London, and to reach the French Metropolis well within twenty-four hours. But those who are able to travel in a more leisurely manner usually make a short stay in London, and resume their journeys on the following morning. Briefly summarising the choice of routes before us,_ we find, firstly, that the most direct and rapid services as well as the shortest Channel passages are supplied by the mail and express trains of the "South Eastern and Chatham Railway," which depart from Victoria and from Charing Cross, likewise from Holborn Viaduct and Cannon Street, for Dover in connection with the steamers to Calais, also from Charing Cross and from Cannon Street to Folke- stone in connection with the steamers to Boulogne. At either of these ports passengers can join the well-appointed 16 GUIDE TO PARIS. expresses of the " Chemin de Per du Nord" which are run by way of the old cathedral city of Amiens direct to Paris. The next route to be noticed in point of time is that of the popular "London, Brighton and South Coast Railway." This well-known Company despatches its West End expresses from Victoria, and the City portions from London Bridge. They are run direct to Newhaven, whence sail the fine Channel steamers which have their destination at the French port of Dieppe. Here passengers can join the comfortable expresses of the " Chemins de Fer de I'Ouest," which travel to Rouen, the ancient capital of Normandy, and thence through the valley of the Seine to Paris. Thirdly, we should refer to the Continental expresses of the " London and South Western Railway" departing from their terminus at Waterloo and travelling direct to the port of Southampton, where they are drawn up alongside the commodious steamship that crosses the Channel to Havre. Here, again, we join the express trains of the " Chemins de Fer de I'Ouest," which likewise pursue their journeys through the valley of the Seine to Rouen, whence they .speed onwards over the same main line to Paris. As a matter of fact, the foregoing fast trains from London comprise the whole of the direct mail and special express services between the English and the French capitals. But in addition thereto the "London and South Western Railway" offer to tourists desirous of seeing more of Normandy the advantages of a direct boat to Cherbourg, the great naval arsenal and dockyard of France, situated on the northern coast of La Manche. From here fast trains are run to Paris by way of Bayeux, Caen, and Evreux ; while those who wish to explore Brittany may sail to St. Malo and travel thence to Paris through Rennes, Laval, LJ Mans, and Chartres. PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 17 Departing from LONDON by any of the Continental expresses which daily leave the "South Eastern Companies' West End terminus at Victoria, Chatham Railway " or their City terminus at Holborn Viaduct, Dover-Calais we soon cross the Thames, and before many Route to minutes have elapsed arrive at HERNE HILL, Paris. where the two portions are made up into one train. Then, speeding away through the green fields of suburban Sur- rey, we soon leave behind us DULWICH, with its great public THE CASTLE GARDENS, ROCHESTEB. From a photograph by Mcssrf. Poulton < Son. school, on our left, SYDENHAM HILL, PENCE, and KENT HOUSE before we reach the pretty residen- tial villas of BECK EN ii AM, BROMLEY, and BICKLEY. Still away through the breezy countryside of West Kent, we pass, ST. MARY CRAY, SWANLEY, FARNINGHAM ROAD, FAWKHAM, MEOPIIAM, and SOLE STREET, the nearest station to Cobham CANTEU11VUY CATHEDRAL. From a photograph by Mr. Chester Vauyhan, Acton. 1.8. GUIDE TO PARIS. Church, containing in its chancel a rich series of magnifi- cent mediaeval brasses. Winding through chalk cuttings, we presently perceive on our right the shimmering waters of the Medway, and far ahead the grey castle keep and old cathedral church of Rochester. Drawing nearer, we gain many a pleasing changeful view of the Norman fane and fortress ere we clear ROCHESTER BRIDGE, ROCHESTER and CHATHAM, the latter town remarkable for the Govern- ment Dockyard. Both Rochester and the Cobham dis- trict abound in reminiscences of Charles Dickens, whose boyhood and later life were unalienably associated Avith his favourite Kentish city. Resuming our journey, we run by NEW BROMPTON. Far away in our left distance stretches a tract of marsh lands which border the estuary of the Medway, marked by the red sails of moving ships. Our course now lies through the cherry orchards of East Kent, served by the stations of RAINIIAM and NEWINGTON. SITTING- BOURNE, a busy centre of brickfields and the paper manu- facture, is succeeded by TEYNHAM and the ancient market town of FAVERSHAM. Fairly in the heart of the Kentish hop gardens we rush onwards by the picturesque woodlands of SELLING, and ere long overlook the fertile valley of the Stour, where high above the clustered dwellings of the city rise the graceful Gothic towers of Canterbury Cathe- dral. After passing through CANTERBURY we again run onwards through the countryside, here served by the way- side stations of BEKES BOURNE, A DISH AM, SHEPHERD'S WELL, and KEARSXEY before we reach the Priory Station, the Town and Harbour Station, and the Pier Station of DOVER for the mail steamers to CALAIS. Passengers to Paris who elect to travel by the Folke- stone-Boulogne route will, at the expense of a very slightly lengthened sea passage, effect a considerable shortening of their railway journeys on both sides of the Channel. The PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. "South Eastern and Chatham Railway." Folkestone - Boulogne Route to Paris. expresses which depart from London to Folke- stone leave the well-known West End terminus of Charing Cross, while the afternoon service also calls at the City terminus of Cannon Street. After crossing the Thames and speeding away through the London Bridge Station, we pass NEW CROSS, ST. JOHN'S, HITHER GREEN, GROVE PARK, and CHISLEIIURST. Then sweeping through ORPINGTON, CHELSFIELD, HALSTEAD, and DUNTON GREEN, we come to the picturesque countryside surrounding SEVENOAKS, HILDENBOROUGH, and TONBRIDGE JUNCTION. Here we enter upon the beautiful rural scenery of the Kentish Weald, where ancient parish churches and substan- tial farmsteads are seated amidst wide tracts of hop gardens, woodlands, pastures, and cornfields, served by stations at PADDOCK WOOD, HARDEN, STAPLEHURST, HEADCORN, and PLUCKLEY. From ASHFORD JUNCTION we pursue our own way through SJIEETH, WESTENHANGER, close to the old mansion of Westenhanger House, and HANDLING JUNCTION. Finally by SHORNCLIFFE CAMP and FOLKESTONE (Central and Junction Stations), we reach FOLKESTONE (Harbour and Pier. Stations), whence steamers sail twice daily to BOULOGNE. So narrow is the silver streak of the English Channel at the point where it affords a course for the mail steamers that passengers embarking at DOVER can oftener than not at once perceive ahead the looming chalk cliffs . THE HOTEL DE VILLE, CALAIS. 20 GUIDE TO PARIS. of France. Under average conditions little more than an hour has elapsed before the boats draw near to their des- tination, and land their passengers at CALAIS ; and much the same description applies to the course of the sister boats which steam daily be- tween FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE. In either case, the passage is undertaken by swift steamers of the most modern type and com- pleted within the BOrLOGXE. From photographs by Mr. ChesterVaughan, Acton. minimum time required for the crossing of the Channel. Presuming that we are about to start from CALAIS (Gare Maritime) on the final stage of our journey over the " Chemin de Eer du Nord" we join the special express which awaits the arrival of the Dover boat, and, running through several small seaside stations, rapidly approach BOULOGNE (Gare de Ville). Here we effect a junction with the line which has its terminus at BOULOGNE (Gare Maritime), where starts the express which is run in connection with the boat from Folkestone. Travelling southward, and still PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 21 running more or less near to the coast, we presently reach ABBEVILLE, whence we proceed to the city of AMIENS, chiefly noteworthy for its imposing thirteenth century cathe- dral. Here we make our last stop before speeding on our way through CHANTILLY to PARIS (Gare du Nord). (Full information relating to the Dover-Calais and to the Folkestone- JBoulogne routes is given in " The Official Guide to the South Eastern and Chatham Railway."} " London, Leaving LONDON, either from Victoria or Brighton f rom London Bridge, the two termini which respectively witness the daily departures of the Railway " West End and the City Newhaven - Dieppe Newhaven- expresses, we travel by the one or the other Dieppe of these services to EAST CROYDON, where the Route to t wo portions are marshalled into one train, "which is run onward by SOUTH CROYDON and PURLEY to RED HILL JUNCTION. Hastening onwards through the lovely countryside of Surrey and Sussex, we soon pass EARLSWOOD, and THREE BRIDGES, w-hence we run to HAYWARD'S HEATH and WIVELSFIELD. Here diverg- ing in a southeasterly direction from the main line to Brighton, we continue our journey through PLUMPTON and COOKSBRIDGE to the ancient county town of Lewes, the capital of East Sussex, where the ivy-mantled ruins of the Norman castle here built by William de Warrenne still stand high on the hill, which here rises abruptly from the banks of the Ouse. In the valley below are the fragmentary remains of the Cluniac Priory, which had the same noble founder. Leaving the towering hills of the South Downs and running out into the broad levels of the Ouse estuary, we soon reach NEWHAVEN (Town Station], and NEWHAVEN (Harbour Station], where the Dieppe steamers are laid alongside the Continental express. Steaming over the English Channel in one of the new 22 GUIDE TO PARIS. fast steamships which are the joint property of the " London, Brighton and South Coast Railway " and the " Chemins de Per de I' Quest" the two Companies which control the traffic by the " Newhaven-Dieppe Route," we quickly leave astern the steep cliffs of Beachy Head, and rapidly draw near to the picturesque coast line of Normandy, where lies our destination the ever attractive watering-place and busy seaport of DIEPPE. Coming to anchor at the quays, we here find waiting the " Rouen and Paris Express," which, after the passengers' luggage has THE HEACH. DIEPPE. been duly cleared by the Customs House officers, at once starts for the capital, running thither by way of LONGUE- VILLE, CLERKS, and MONVILLE to the fine old city of ROUEX, with its quaint streets, grand Norman cathedral, magnificent churches, stately Palais de Justice, and many other substantial buildings. Then, ascending the beautiful Seine Valley, we steadily pursue our journey onwards through GAILLON, MANTES, and ACHERES to PARIS (Gare St. Lazare). (Additional particulars relating to the Newhaven- Dieppe Route are to be found in " The Official Guide to the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway.") A third important Continental service from LONDON is that which, each weekday departing from Waterloo Station, PART I. ROUTES TO PARIS. 23 " London carries its passengers to Southampton. After and South l eav ini? the great Surrey terminus, the ex- Western ,, Rail a " P rcss soon P asses through CLAPHAM JUNCTION Southampton- anc ^ successively leaves in its rear the stations Havre of EARLSFIELD AND SUMMERS TOWN, WIMBLE- Route to DON, RAYNES PARK, COOMBE AND MALDEN, Pans. SURBITON, and ESHER, close to which is the well- known racecourse of Sandown Park. Then through WALTON-ON-TIIAMES, WEYBRIDGE, and BYFLEET AND From a })?iot jruiih ly Messrs Poulton & Son LOH ill i II. HAVRE. WOODHAM, \vc come to WOKING, BROOKWOOD in the neio-h- bourhood of Bisley Camp and FARNBOROUGII ; which are followed by FLEET, WINCHFIELD, and HOOK. Bearing away southward soon after clearing the market town of 24 GUIDE TO PARIS. BASINGSTOKE, we reach MICHELDEVER and the ancient city of WINCHESTER, with its stately cathedral still enshrining the tombs of the Saxon kings. Here, too, are Winchester College, the oldest of the " nine great Public Schools," and the quaint Norman Hospital of St. Cross; Still we move onward through SHAWFORD AND TWYFORD, EASTLEIGH, SWATHLING, ST. DENYS, and NORTHAM to SOUTHAMPTON. Here embarking upon the handsomely appointed Channel boat which awaits the arrival of the 'train, we steam over to the port of HAVRE, when we at once proceed to the " Rouen and Paris Express." Leaving HAVRE, our train travels by way of HARFLEUR, MOTTE- VILLE, MALAUNAY, and MAROMME to ROUEN, whence, fol- lowing the picturesque route through the valley of the Seine, it proceeds through MANTES to PARIS (Gare St. Lazare}. (The Continental services of the Southampton-Havre Route are fully described in " The Official Guide to the London and /South Western Railway"} CHURCH OF ST. OVEX, ROUEN. From a photograph by Mesn", Frith f& Co. F.elgatc. flan of faris. HOTEL REGINA, 2, PLACE DE RIVOLI, PARIS. perfection of J^odern Hotels, ir\ best central position, facing tf\e 'Cuileries (gardens. 200 ROOMS. 40 BATHROOMS. PERFECT SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS. MODERATE TERMS. HOTEL D'ANTIN, 18, RUE D'ANTIN, PARIS. QUIET FAMILY HOTEL. Central Position near the "Grands Boulevards" and the Opera. HOUSE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. TERMS MODERATE. Hotel de Lille et d'Albion, 223, Rue St. Honor e, PARIS. Between the Tuileries Gardens, Place Venc'ome, ana New Opera. Advantageous Arrangements for Families. Every Home Comfort. BEAUTIFUL HALL. LARGE DRAWING-ROOM. RESTAURANT TABLE D'HCTE. LUNCHEON AND DINNER AT SEPARATE TABLES. ENGLISH BILLIARDS. BATH RCOMS. LIFT. ELECTRIC LICET THROUGHOUT. TELEPHONE. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS : LILLALBION PARIS HI NRI ABADIE, Proprietor. PARIS. Metropolitan Kail'::- Chief Tramways MAP ^^K^tSHT ""'^'"'i'/wme. trtisbafff^t^m^ PARIS. PHOTOGRAPHS. THE FINEST Views of PARIS and its Environs ARE IN THE X. AND N.D. COLLECTIONS. Purchasers should insist on having these marks, which are on sale everywhere. Ask also to see the various X. and N.D. Albums of Views, etc. PHOTOGRAPHS. 25 fart H. PARIS, ITS CHIEF FEATURES, CHARAC- TERISTICS, AND HISTORY. MODERN PARIS. THREE features, distinguishing modern Paris from any other city in Europe, will immediately strike the visitor 'who enters within its walls for the first time. He will be struck, in the first place, by the size, uniformity, and newness of the houses in the main thoroughfares ; next, by the breadth of the principal streets and boulevards, and the immense amount of room allotted to pedestrians and vehicles ; and thirdly, by the pleasant relief to the eye and cool shade afforded by the fine trees planted in all the boulevards and avenues. Other cities contain public buildings as fine as any to be found in the French capital. But in Paris everything is in harmony and proportion. In all the modern improvements of Paris, one idea has been carried out namely, to develop the beauty and add to the attractions of the city. Every year witnesses the disappearance of some narrow antiquated thoroughfares, and their replacement by a handsome broad street or boulevard, with palatial houses, all in the same style of architecture. The Empire under Napoleon III. began the revolution in the construction of the city; the Republic continues it with vigour. Proprietors erecting new houses are required to submit their plans to the Municipal Council, which on its part rigorously enforces the adoption of a design in harmony with the adjacent buildings. In addition to this measure, the Municipal Council acquires by compulsory purchase a large extent of land whenever demolitions are 2b GUIDE TO PARIS. undertaken, and always reserves a considerable portion for open places, or carrefours, at various points of the wide new street in course of construction. Considerations of expense are altogether cast aside; the result is that Paris of the nine- teenth century is the finest city in the world. Another principle adopted in the reconstruction of the city contributes much to its beauty. All new monuments and churches are placed at points where their proportions can be seen in perspective. The Eglise du Sacre Coeur on the heights of Montmartre can be seen from nearly every part of Paris, including the " Grands Boulevards." The Madeleine, on the north, and the Palais Bourbon (Corps Legislatif), on the sou Hi side of the Seine, have uninterrupted views of each other across the Place de la Concorde. The Church of St. Augustin fronts the length of the Boulevard Malesherbes. The churches of La Trinite, Notre Dame de Lorette and St. Vincent de Paul can be seen from the boulevards at distances of nearly half a mile. The Grand Opera is the most prominent object visible from the Louvre end of the Avenue de 1'Opera. The Colonne VendOme is in the centre line of the Rue de la Paix. In- stances might be multiplied, but enough has been said to show that the modern edifices of Paris are displayed to the best advantage. The City of Paris is egg-shaped. The shell, represented by the wall which surrounds it, is upwards of twenty-one miles in length. The small end of the egg is towards the west, facing the Bois de Boulogne. The old Cite of Paris, described on page 40, is in the heart of the city. It stands on two large islands in the centre of the Seine, connected with the banks by six bridges on either side. The river enters the fortifications at the south-east point, and flows in a north-westerly direction past the Cite as far us the Place de la Concorde. Its course then becomes due west until it reaches the Pont de 1'Alma. Here it curves round to 28 GUIDE TO PARIS. the left, and .flows, in a south-westerly direction to the fortifica- tions at Auteuil, where it emerges into the open plain. The historic part of Paris is bounded by an ellipse of broad streets, planted with fine trees, known as the Inner Boulevards. The extreme east point is the Place de la Bastille; the extreme west point, the Place de la Concorde. The quarter west and north of the latter Place (including Passy and Auteuil) has been almost entirely built during the present century, and consists mainly of splendid avenues and boulevards, flanked by private houses which, in ai'chitectural beauty and mag- nificence of decoration, will vie with almost any of the royal palaces. . The visitor desirous of obtaining a comprehensive idea of Paris cannot do better than make his way to the Place de la Concorde. .This noble square, the largest and finest in the city, is 390 yards .long and 235 yards wide. Its south side faces the Seine ; .its west side, the Champs Ely sees ; its east side, the garden of the Tuileries ; and its north side, the Rue Royale. The centre is occupied by the Luxor obelisk, twin monument with Cleopatra's Needle, the obelisk erected on the Thames Embankment, London. The .Luxor monument is a granite monolith, 76 feet high, and weighing 240 tons, erected on a solid block of Breton granite, 13 feet high. It was given to Louis Philippe by Mohammed Ali, .Pasha of Egypt. The expense of bringing it from Egypt and of its erection exceeded .80,000. North 'and south of the column are two fountains, each playing into a circular basin 53 feet in diameter. That furthest from the Seine is dedicated to the rivers, and has emblematic statues of the Rhine and Rhone. That next the Seine is dedicated to the seas. The emblematic statues represent the Pacific and .Mediterranean. The basins are surrounded by dolphins and nereids, which spout water. Eight largo status civet. 'd around the Place represent the. 30 GUIDE TO PARIS. chief towns of France. The emblems of Lille and Strasbourg are by Pradier ; Bordeaux and Nantes are by Cathouet ; Rouen and Brest by Cortot ; and Marseilles and Lyons by Petitot. Ever since 1871 the statue representing Strasbourg has been draped in mourning. < The history of the Place de la Concorde is tragic- and gloomy. The site was a large piece of waste ground until 1763, when the municipal body of Paris erected a statue in the centre in honour of Louis XV. The ground was levelled, ami the square formed, suiTounded by a deep moat. In 1770 more than 1,200 persons were crushed to death in the ditch, and 2,000 injured, during a panic caused by the accidental discharge of some fireworks, on the celebration of the marriage of Louis XVI. with Marie Antoinette. In 1792 the statue of Louis XV. was melted by the Convention and coined into pennies. The title of the Place was changed to Place de la Revolution. In the following year Louis XVI. was guillotined on the spot where the obelisk now stands. For two years the instrument of the Revolution continued its bloody work, and more than 2,800 persons were decapitated on the same spot. In 1799 the name Place de la Concorde was substituted for Place de la Revolution ; fifteen years later it was dedicated to Louis XIV., and in 1826 to Louis XV. In 1830 the title Place de la Concorde was restored. The Place has been thrice occupied by foreign troops during the present century. In 1814 the Allied Powers entered Paris, Prussian and Russian troops bivouacked in the Champs Elysees. The following year, after the Cent Jours, the occupation was repeated. In March, 1871, after the capitula- tion of Paris, the armies of the invaders again bivouacked on the same ground. Two months later a terrible struggle took place between the forces of the Government and of the Commune. The barricade raised by the latter across the Rue PART II. MODERN PARIS. 31 Roy ale was stormed after a prolonged resistance. Fortunately, little damage was done to the Place itself, and the obelisk escaped altogether. The Place de la Concorde forms a centre whence can be seen on all sides landmarks serving to guide the visitor in every part of the city. Looking towards the river (at the other end of the Pont de la Concorde), he will see straight before him, on the southern bank, the Palais Bourbon, or Corps Legislatif, the seat of the- Chamber of Deputies. Immediately to the right of it is the Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres, or Foreign Office. The lofty gilded dome which rises immediately in the background is the dome of Napoleon's tomb. Further down the river, on the same bank, are some of the 1900 Exhibition buildings and the new station of the Ceinture Railway in front of the Alexander III. bridge leading into the new Avenue of Nicolas II., the Government Tobacco Factory, and the Eiffel Tower, facing which, on the opposite bank, is the Palace of the Trocadero, with its two lofty towers. Turning to the right, the noble proportions of the Arc de Triomphe are seen, on the summit of a gentle slope a mile and a half distant. The Champs Elysees lie immediately before it. To the left of the Avenue are the Palaces of the Beaux Arts, and to the right the Palais de 1'Elysee, occupied by the President of the Republic. Facing eastward, the visitor will see at the further end of the garden of the Tuileries (about three-quarters of a mile), the Palais of the Louvre, the centre of the historic quarter of Paris. The long street to the left, fronting on the garden, is the Rue de Rivoli, whose arcades are a never-ending source of interest to English visitors. Looking northward, the building in the square to the right is the Admiralty Office (Ministere de la Marine), that on the right containing two hotels (Crillon and Coislin). The street leading out of the Place is the Rue Royale ; the Corinthian 32 GUIDE TO PARIS. temple at the farther end is the Madeleine, where begins the line of the " Grands Boulevards," which form the northern half of the ellipse that encloses historic Paris. Crossing the Place to the Pont de la Concorde, and looking eastward, he will see a little down on the right the magnificent new station of the Orleans Railway, which covers the site of the ruins of the Palace of the Conseil d'Etat which was, till recently, the last vestige of the jvar and the Communist struggle in Paris ; then in the centre of the river the towers of Notre Dame and the slender spire of the Sainte Chapelle. On the north bank the tower of St. Jacques, the river front of the Louvre, and the Hotel de Ville. On the south side of the river, behind the Chambre des Deputes, the towers of the Church of St. Clotilde. To the left of it, upon the river bank, the Palace of the Legion of Honour ; the Ecole des Beaux Arts, and the Institute. The greater part of the historic monuments of Paris are in the circle surrounding the Cite". Their precise situation will be described in due course. Another view of Paris, which the visitor must not miss, is from the foot (or platform) of the Eglise du Sacre" Cceur at Montmartre. It is preferable to that from the Eiffel Tower, as all the monuments appear in their natural sizes and in no way dwarfed. THE BOULEVARDS. The term boulevard is applied generally to any broad thorough- fare flanked by trees; but when reference is made to "the boule- vards," the line of streets leading from the Madeleine to the Bastille is usually meant. This remarkable thoroughfare, the main artery, so to speak, of modern Paris, has replaced one half of the circle of fortifications which formed the boundary of the city in the sixteenth century. The line is nearly three miles in length, and is of one uniform width. The roadway is about fifty-six feet wide ; at its sides are planted, at equal distances, large plane trees, acacias, mountain ashes, and chestnut trees. Outside these, on each side, is a footway upwards of thirty feet in width. The Boulevards follow each other in the undermentioned order :-=- BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE, Boulevard des Gapucines, 34 GUIDE TO PARIS. Boulevard des Italiens, Boulevard Montmartre, Boulevard Poisson- mere, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Boulevard St. Denis, Boulevard St. Martin, Place de la Republique, Boulevard du Temple, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, Boulevard Beanmarchais, Place de la Bastille. The corresponding boulevards on the south side of the Seine, which complete the circle of the ancient fortifications, are Boule- vards Henri Quatre, Sully, and St. Germain, leading up to the Pont de la Concorde. The whole of these "Inner" or "Old" Boulevards can best ba seen by taking the omnibus (Madeleine-Bastille) at the Madeleine and alighting at the Bastille (30 c. inside, 15 c. outside), then taking the tramway (Bastille-Porte Rapp) to the Place de Ja Concorde (30 c. inside, 15 c. outside). By correspondance (see p. 143) the inside passenger need only pay once for the two vehicles. The New Boulevards, or Outer Boulevards, form a much wider circle. They extend as far as the Arc de Trioniphe, on the west side, and the Place de la Nation on the east side, and are connected by tramway the whole length. PRINCIPAL STREETS. In a work of this kind^spaes will not permit of a description, rr even an enumeration, of all the streets of a great city. Brit a few of the principal large thoroughfares, apart from the avenues and boulevards, may be briefly described, and when the visitor has once mastered their position, he will easily find the streets of minor importance. Frequent reference should be made to our map. All the streets of Paris are numbered on one fixed principle. The even numbers are on the right side, the odd numbers on the 1( ft The numeration of all streets parallel with the Seine begins at the east end; that of streets running at right angles to the Seine commences at the end nearest the river. The visitor, therefore, need never be in doubt as to the relative position of any number iu a street. At the corner of every street, etc., the name is clearly i7itlicated. AVENUE DE L'OPEPA. This splendid thoroughfare, which connects the Loiivre with the Opera, was one of the first great improvements effected by the Republic. An immense mass of narrow, irregular streets, enclosing some of the worst rookeries of Paris, blocked the space b;t \veen the Lonvre and the boulevards befii'j the war of 1870. The fires of the Ci maiuno caused a large breach in 1871, and paved the w.iy for the new avenue, which occupied nearly eight years in c( mp'etion. It is about 1,000 yards in l"iigth, and is ntr.v during the d-n on ' i t' the mos" frequented PART II. MODERX PARIS. 35 of the largo thoroughfares of Paris. In the evening the shops close earlier than those on the boulevards. There are several very fine restaurants, and one or two first-class hotels, in this Avenue. The Place du Theatre Francnis is at the river end. RUE AUBER, connecting the Place de 1'Opera with the Boule- vard Haussmann at the point where the latter is crossed by the Rue Tronchet, a street leading from the Madeleine to St. La/are Station, is one of the large new streets constructed under the late Empire. RUE LAFAYETTE. A broad handsome thoroughfa e, running for nearly a mile and a half in a north-easterly direction, from the back of the Opera, at the intersecting angle of the Boulevard Haussmann and the Rue de la Chans see d'Antin. RUE DE LA PAIX. The visitor standing in the Place de 1'Opern, and looking southward, will see three diverging sti'cets, besides Hie boulevard which crosses the Place. That immediately facing him is the Avenue de 1'Opera; that on the right of it is (he Rue de la Paix, opened in 180(5 as the Rue Napoleon; it lost its title at the Restoration, when it received its present name, to com- memorate the Peace of 1814. It is among the finest streets of Paris, the shops being of the best description, especially those of the jewellers. The Place Vendome, and Vendomo Column, are at tho end nearest the Bue de Rivoli, which is connected with the Place by a short street called the Rue Castiglione. RUE DU 4 SEPTEMBKE. This street, on 1he east side of tho Avenue de 1'Opera, corresponds with the Rue de la Paix ; it leads to the Bourse. It received its name from the establishment of tho present Republic, on the 4th September, 1870. It is continued on the other side of the Place de la Bourse by the new part opened in 1S99 of the Rue Reaumur. RUE DE RIVOLI. Every Englishman knows the Rue de Rivoli byname. The shops its principal feature are a particular source of interest to visitors. RUE ST. DENIS. A street of historical importance, as being one of the oldest in enlarged Paris, and also as being connected with the Bourbon dynasty. It obtained its name in the twelfth century, having been previously little more than a road running out side the walls to the tomb of S l . Denis. It now extends from the Plac3 du Chatelet northward to the Porte St. Denis, as con- strur-tcd by Louis XIV. It was along this street that the early sovereigns of France usually made their entrance into Paris. The Rue St. Denis is one of the busiest and most bustling f-trecti of Paris, although its importance has of late years been diminished by the construction of the Boulevrds Sebastopol and Strasbourg. GUIDE TO PARIS. RUE ST. MARTIN, situated a HI tie to the east of Rue St. Denis, and parallel with it. It was completed during the reign of Louis XIII., and was originally named from the Abbey of St. Martin, where it formerly terminated. The thoroughfares right and left of it are some of the quaintest parts of old Paris. PLACES AND SQUARES. The word place in French corresponds in general terms with the English words Square and Circus, but it also includes open spaces of any shape ; and as most of the public build- ings of Paris are faced by open spaces, the number of places is considerable. It will be unnecessary to de- scribe them here, as they will be mentioned in con- nection with any object of interest they contain. One " Place " calls, however, for special men- tion. Tourists wishing to see a part of ancient Paris existing to-day exactly as in the time of Louis XIII., when it was the centre of fashion, should visit the Place des Vosges (near the Bastille), which stands on the site of the Palace des Tournelles, demolished by order of Catherine de Medicis after Henri II. was accidentally killed there in a tournament by Montgomery. The quad- rangle consists of reel brick arcaded honses, with very high roofs. The marble statue of Louis XIII. in the square was erected in 1829 by Charles X. (figure by Cortot, horge by Dupaty). Celebrated names connected with the place are the Cardinal R'ichelieu (No. 21), Mme. de Sevigne^ (corner of the Rue Birague), Victor Hugo (No. 9), etc. PLACE DES YOSGES. Victor Hugo, when twenty-five, lived in the very room occupied two centuries before by the notorious Marion de Lorme. and it was here he wrote the tragedy bearing her name. TLACE DE LA REPtT.LIQUE. PART II. MODERN PARIS. 37 THE SEINE: ITS BRIDGES AND QUAYS. The river Seine, in its course through Paris, is crossed by thirty-one bridges. Fourteen of these bridges connect the Cite with the mainland viz., seven on the south bank and seven on the north. The Pont de Sully is at the eastern extremity of the two islands which form the Cite, the Pout Neuf at the western extremity. The quays fronting the Cite are: on the narth side, the Quai du Louvre, Quai de la Megisserie, Quai de Gesvres, Quai de I'Hotel de Ville, and the Quai des Celestins. The bridges connecting them with the islands are : the Pont Neuf, of twelve circular arches, completed 1624, and consequently the oldest of all the existing bridges (at the further end, on the west side, is a famous statue of Henri IV.) ; and the Pout St. Michel, built 1857, consisting of three elliptic arches. East of the PONT NEUF are the PONT AU CHANGE, the PONT NOTRE DAME, the PONT D'ARCOLE, the PONT ST. Louis, the PONT MARIE, and the PONT SULLY, formerly Pont St. Germain, uniting the lie St. Louis to the Quai Henri IV. on the north side, and the Quai St. Bernard on the south side. The quays on the south side, fronting the island, are : the Quai Conti (opposite the Quai du Louvre), the Quai des Augustius, Quai St. Michel, Quai Montebello, and Quai de la Tournelle. The bridges connecting- the city with the south bank of the Seine are the PETIT PONT, the PONT ST. MICHEL, the PONT AU DOUBLE, the PONT DE L'ARCHEVECHE", and the PONT DE LA TOURNELLE. East of the Cite the Seine runs bet wean the Quai Henry IV., on the north, and the Quai St. Bernard, on the south, as far as the PONT D'AUSTERLITZ. The remaining quays on the north side are the Quai do la Rapee and Quai de Bercy. On the south side, the Quai d'Austerlitz and Quai de la Gare. Connecting them are the PONT DE BERCY, tlio PONT TOLBIAC, and the PONT NATIONAL, formerly the Pont Napoleon, just inside the fortifications (used for the Ceinture Railway). West of the Pout Neuf are the following bridges and quays : The PONT DBS ARTS, and the PONT DES SAINT? PERES, otherwise known as Pont du Carrousel. The Quai Malaquai?, on the south bank, and the Quai des Tuileries, on the norta bank, are between these two bridges. The other bridges are the PONT ROYAL, connecting the Quai Voltaire with the Quai . p. 129). The buildings facing the Palais, on the opposite side of the Boulevard, are those of the Tribunal de Commerce, and behind them is the Flower Market. Beyond the Flower Market is the Hotel Dieu (p. 105), which looks out on the Place Parvis Notre Dame. The Cathedral (p. 83), with its garden, occupies the upper part of the island, with the excep- tion of a block of old houses on the north side, with frontage on the Quai Napoleon. Exactly behind Notre Dame, on a small projection, is the Morgue (p. 125). The road which separates them is called the Pont de I'Arclieveche, and tli3 quay parallel to Notre Dame on the south side of the river is the Quai de I'Archeveche. Returning along this quay to the P]a r e Notre Dame, the block of buildings fronting the PART II. MODERN PARIS. 41 cathedral is the Caserne Municipal, large barracks. The quay which bounds it on the north side is the Quai du Marche Neuf. The block of buildings between the barracks and the Palais de Justice is occupied by a division of Sapeurs Pompiers (p. 175). The other part of the Cite', known as the lie St. Louis, is bounded on the north bank by the Quai Bourbon and Quai Anjou ; on the south bank by the Quai d'Orleans and the Qai de Be'thuue. It contains no monuments or buildings of interest. A brief summary of the changes and transformations which Paris has undergone during a period extending over two thousand years will probably be interesting to the visitor. It was on these islands in the Seine that the Parisii, a nomad tribe driven westward by the Goths, established them- selves some centuries before the Roman conquest of Gaul, and founded a town to which the Komans gave the name of Lutetia. When Gaul was conquered by Julius Caesar, the Romans took possession of Lutetia, and constructed roads, villas, and baths, both on the islands themselves and in the neighbourhood. The Roman occupation of Lutetia lasted till the end of the fifth century, but during the intervening period many changes had taken place. During the first three centuries the Romans made the islands their headquarters, but at the beginning of the fourth century Constantius Chlorus founded on the left bank of the river a palace, remains of which still exist at the Musee de Cluny (p. 93). About a century pre- viously Christianity had been introduced into France by St. Denis, who established the monastery which bears his name. He was put to death by the Romans A.D. 250, on the heights of Montmartre ; but the work of Christianity went on, and during the next century the Roman Governor, Julian, belonged to the new religion previous to his elevation to. office. During his reign the riatne of the fo'w'n was changed frbin Lutetia to 42 GUIDE TO PARIS. Parisii, and it was endowed with a political franchise as a part of the Roman Empire. The earliest religious edifice in Paris was the Church of St. Peter and^St. Paul, built by Clovis, King of Tournay, at the beginning of the fifth century, and afterwards dedicated by him to St. Genevieve. The wood hovels of the Parisii had by this time given place to stone houses, which had overflowed the space on the islands, and dotted the marshy ground north and south of the river-bank. The Seine had in those days not been confined by embankments, and the banks shelved down to the water from a level very little above the water-mark. For about 250 years, during which the kings of the Mero- vingian dynasty reigned over France, Paris progressed but little. The early kings of the Carlovingian dynasty resided at Rheims, but in 840 Charles the Bald came to live at Paris. By this time a new invasion of the country was commenced by the Normans, under Duke Rollo, who, having established themselves at Rouen, sailed up the Seine and sacked Paris. Subsequent monarchs abandoned the city to the invaders, who ravaged it from time to time, though unable to take possession of it. At the end of the eighth century Hugh Capet, the founder of the third dynasty of French kings, built himself a palace on the lie de la Cite, on the spot where the Palais de Justice . now stands. His successors, Robert II., Henri I., and Philip I. continued to reside in it. The town had again largely extended its limits, but in the fashion prevalent throughout France. Private houses and monasteries, flanked with turrets and surrounded with ditches for defence, sprang up in various directions, and around them clustered the small dwellings of the humble retainers of the nobles and priesthood. In 1108 Louis VI., surnamed the Big, founded a palace on the site where the old Louvre now stands. It was rather a fortress than a palace, having battlemented walls and round towers. 44 GUIDE TO PARIS. His successor, Louis VII., threw himself into the hands of the Church. He made Suger, the Abbot of St. Denis, his chief minister, and commenced the construction of the Cathedral of Notre Dame, of which Pope Alexander III. laid the founda- tion-stone. Paris had now developed considerably in pros- perity, and was so well worth defending that Philippe Auguste erected a circle of fortifications round it. They commenced at the east end of the lie St. Louis, and ran westward as far as the Halles Centrales, turning to the river-bank at the Place du Chatelet, where was constructed the tower of the Grand Chatelet, and opposite to it, on the south bank, the Petit Chatelet. On the south side of the river the monastery of St. Germain was outside the fortifications, whence its designation, St. Germain in the Meadows. The remaining sovereigns of the House of Capet did little or nothing for the city ; but Paris maintained its progress, and in the reign of Louis IX. the Sorbonne University was founded by the king's chaplain, A.D. 1250. Particulars of this remarkable institution will be found at page 137. The Sainte Chapelle (p. 73), the purest and most elegantly decorated Gothic building in existence, was built by St. Louis. The two first kings of the House of Valois, Philip VI. and his son John, were too much occupied in defending themselves against Edward III. to devote much attention to their capital. Charles V., having profited by the peace of Bretigny, was enabled to turn his attention to home affairs. He constructed the famous fortress of the Bastille, and that of the Tournelles, which formerly stood on the quay at the end of the Pont des Tournelles (see p. 36). He also founded the Royal Library, which was afterwards transferred to the Bibliotheque Rationale. Paris had again outgrown its borders, and it became necessary to extend the fortifications both eastward and westward. Under Charles VI. Paris was occupied by the English, after thfe defeat of the French army by Henry V a't Aginc'ourt. 4G GUIDE TO The succeeding reigns were stormy, and little was done either to beautify or strengthen the city v.ntil the accession of Francis T. This monarch was the first to begin that long series of embellishments which have made Paris the finest city in the world. The improvements commenced by Francis I. comprised the Palace of the Louvre, on the site occupied by the dungeon built by Louis VI., and the Hotel de Ville, whose architecture was precisely similar in style to that of the existing palace. The fortifications were extended wide beyond the newly- constructed city, as far as the Inner or "Grands Boulevards/' Under the Regency of Catherine de Medicis, the Louvre was extended, and the Palace of the Tuileries constructed. In the reign of Henri IV. the Pont Neuf was built, and additions were made to the Louvre and Tuileries (see Louvre, p. 115). In the reign of Louis XIII. the work of adornment was continued. The Luxembourg was built by Marie de Medicis, find the Palais Koyal by Cardinal Richelieu. Many new quays, streets, and bridges were also constructed. Under Louis XIV. no less than eighty new streets and thirty-three churches were built. The Louvre was enlarged, aid the east front completed ; the College Mazarin, the tapestry works of the Gobelins, the Hotel des Invalides, and the Observatory were built. The king, secure in the prosperity and power of France, ordered the fortifications built by Francis I. to be destroyed, and their line planted with trees. Hence the origin of the Inner Boulevards. The arches of St, Denis and St. Martin mark the spot where the walls of the city extended at the time of their erection. Under Louis XV. the Pantheon, Palais Bourbon, Mint, and Ecolc Militaire were added to the list of public buildings. The Jarclin des Plantes, laid out under Louis XIII., was enlarged, and many other important works were undertaken. PART II. MODERN PARIS. 4< The reign of Louis XVI. contributed nothing to the public improvements of Paris. The Revolution of 1789, if it added nothing to the adorn- ment of the city, on the other hand, left room for improve- ment, by destroying .the enormous monastic establishments, THE PALAIS nu LUXEMBOURG which occupied the best situations and nearly one-third of the city. The Directory commenced the work of restoration. Napoleon I , in the intervals between his wars, occupied him- self largely in improving Paris. The Place du Carrousel was made by the destruction of a mass of poor buildings erected on the spot ; the gallery connecting the Tuileries and Louvre on the north side was built ; many fountains and monuments were erected ; streets, markets, canals, and quays constructed ; 48 GUIDE TO PARIS. churches restored and embellished ; and the Bourse was founded. There was a lull in the progress of improvement during the Restoration, but the reign of Louis Philippe marked a fresh period of progress. The drainage of the city was commenced, the Place de la Concorde completed, gardens and squares were laid out, and other improvements effected. The Revolution of 1848 again put a stop to public works, but the advent of Napoleon III. to the throne was the crowning point of the prosperity of Pari?. Every description of public building was constructed, new quarters of palatial houses were planned out. Additions, nearly equal in extent to the original construction, were made to the Louvre ; hand- some churches, such as those of St. Augustin and La Trinite, were constructed ; and the work went on without intermission, until the memorable day when France embarked with a light heart in the terrible contest with Germany. The fearful effects produced by the remarkable series of ovents which succeeded the declaration of war can scarcely be appreciated at the present day, when all traces of the devas- tating fires of the Commune have been entirely removed. Of the many notable buildings which have been erected in Paris since the establishment of the Third Republic it is scarcely necessary to speak here. Suffice it to instance the Trocadero Palace and the Eiffel Tower, relics respectively of the Exhibitions of 1878 and 1889. 40 SIGHTS OF PARIS. ARC DE TRIOMPHE DU CARROUSEL. THIS interesting monument, which now stands isolated in the quidraugle to the west of the Louvre, known as the Place du Carrousel, served, previously to the burning of the Tuileries Palace in 1871, as a gateway, forming the entrance to the courtyard of the palace-. It was designed by order of Napoleon I. upon the model of the Arch of Severus of Rome, to commemorate the victories of 1805 and 1806; and the architects were Fontaine and Percier.. The structure is rather smaller than its prototype, the respective dimen- sions being: Arch of Severus, 75 feet high and 82 feet wide ; Arc du Carrousel, 48 feet high and 64 feet wide. It was designed as a pedeslal, whereon was placed the world-renowned Quadriga, or team of four horses, from the portal of St. Mark, at Venice, which Napoleon carrie 1 away as a trophy of his Italian campaigns ; but on the fall of the Empire the Quadriga was restored to Venice, and replaced by a group, designed by Bosio, symbolic of the Restora- tion of Louis XVIII. The structTire is pierced by three arcades. The columns are of red marble, with Corinthian capitals and bases in bronze. A marble entablature over the arcades is adorned with groups in relief representing the various regiments of the French army. The marble reliefs on the eastern facade of the arch represent : to the right, tlie Battle of Austerlitz ; to the left, the Capitulation of Ulm. On the west side, facing the Tuileries Gardens: to the right, fie Signing of the Peaca of Tilsit ; to the left, the Entry of the French army into Munich. The group next the Rue Rivoli represents the Entry into Vienca; that next the Seine the Signing of the Peace of Presbnrg. An inscription in French dedicates the arch to the French army, victorious at Austerlitz in 1805, on the anniversary of the crowning of Napoleon I. ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L'ETOILE. Omnibus routes, Hotel de Ville and Porte Maillot ; Palais Royal, Etoile ; Bourse and Passy. Tramway , routes, Rue Taitbout and La Muette ; La Villette and Etoile, Mont Parnasse and Etoile. (To ascend the Arc, apply to Guardian.) This superb trophy, erected to commemorate the many brilliant victories of Napoleon I., is not only the most familiar of all the 50 GtTIDE TO PARIS. magnificent monuments of Paris, but, from its commanding position, is one of the most .striking, being' visible from all parts of the city. It is the centre of a new and aristocratic quarter, planned and for the most part executed by Baron Haussmann under tho Third Empire. The arch was built in 1836, from designs prepared by Chalgrin in 1811, for the first Napoleon. The Emperor intended to erect four arches in various parts of the city, but only lived tj witness the completion of the first, in the Place da Carrousel. The work of completing Hie Arc Iv'e*r of 54 GUIDE TO PARIS. the nation, iu the event of the bank being burn-id dowu aud tlie upper portions falling through into the cellars. The public cau cash notes or obtain change at the bank, but visitors are not shown over the establishment, as is the case at the Bank of England. BARRACKS OR CASERNES. The army maintained in Paris is quartered in Barracks or Casernes in all parts of the city. The most important of these is the ECOLE MILITAIRE, with frontal on the lower cud of the Champs dc Mars. The facade is Corinthian, with Tuscan vestibule, and on the south side of the latter is a Corinthian chapel (1769). The building is flanked by two pavilions; that on the light is for infantry, that on the left for cavalry. The centre is occupied by infantry, and at the ba-k is a new building for equipages. It was here that Dreyfus was degraded. Other military barracks, without special archit- ctur.il or historic interest, are LA PEPINIERE, at tho end of the Rue Pepiniere, facing the church of St. August in. CASERNE DU PRINCE EUGENE, on the wes-t side of the Place de la Republique, contains quartern for 8,001) men. A severe struggle for supremacy took place here between the Government troops and the Communists persons who fell in the revolution of July are inscribed. The column is surmounted by an architectural lantern, crowned by a bronze statue representing Liberty, poi*ed on a globe, bearing in one hand the torch of enlightmeut, and in the other the broken chains of slavery. Thisfignre was designed by Dumont. The total height of the nuiiumeiit is 154 feet. Its base is a massive cylinder of white marble, constructed as a pedestal for the- bronze elephant mentioned above. This cylinder supports a square basement, adorned with medallions symbolical of Justice, the Constitution, Strength, and Freedom. Upon the basement rests the pedestal of the column, having on the west side an inscription dedicating the monument to the glory of the citizens who armed themselves and fought for the public freedom in the memorable days of July 27-2!J, 1830. A br-onze cock, bearing: a garland, is placed at carh corner. 50 GUIDE TO PARIS. An excellent staircase of 212 steps leads to the top, which com- mands a fine view of the quarter, and especially of the cemetery of Pere Lachaise. The fee for . visiting the vaults is 20 centimes. These vaults consist of two chambers, each containing a sarcophagus 45 feet long by 7 feet wide, enclosing the remains of insurgents of 1830 and 1848. The Cooimun'sts of 1871 included the Column of July in their list of condemned monuments, bub happily all their gunpowder, stored beneath it, was expended in the defence of the Place. BEAUX ARTS (fiCOLE DBS). Sunday, 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Entrance on the Quay. The Eeole des Beaux Arts is situated on the Quai Malaquais, on the south bank of the Seine, facing the Louvre. The students' entrance is in the Rue Bonaparte. The building stands on the site of the Abb y of the Petits Angustins, and is modern. It was commenced in 1820, from designs by Debret, and completed in 1838 by Dubanou. The principal facade of the Ecole des Beaux Arts was designed by Dauban, and is a good specimen of Italianised French architec- ture. The chief gallery of the palace is on the first floor of the north wing, next the Seine. It is decorated with copies of Raphael's paintings in the Vatican, made by the Brothers Bake. It is chiefly used for exhibitions of the works of the students and for competing 1 works of architecture and sculpture. BEAUX ARTS (PALAIS DES). Champs Hy&ees. Omnibus, Porte Maillot ; Palais Royal, Utoile ; Gare Ju Nord, Place de 1'Alma. The "Grand" and the Petit Palais de 3 Beaux Arts stand on the ancient site of the Palais de I'ludustrio. The former is the work of MM. Giranlt (chief architect), Louvet, Deglaue, and Thomas, and is intended for the annual exhibitions of the Salon. The latter, after the designs of M. Girault, will be used as a per- manent Art Museum by the Ville de Paris. B1BLIOTHEQUE DE L'ARSENAL. Omnibuses and tramways from all quarters to the Bastille. This collection, the finest in Paris next to the Bibliotheque Nationale, is contained in the old arsenal in the Rue de Sirly, a street between the Bastille and the Seine, near the lie Ste. Louis. It is o'pe'n daily, exc'ept Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 4. PART III. SIGHTS OF PARIS. 57 (Vacation, Aug. 15th to Sept. 1st.) It became the property of Comte d'Artois in 1785. It was appropriated by the Republic of 1791, but restored to Comte d'Artois in 1815. In 1830 it again became the property of the Government, and has since retained its present name. BIBL10THEQUE MAZARINE. A small but interesting collection, at the Institute of France, a domed building on the Quai Malaquais, opposite the Louvre, and close to the Beaux Arts (p. 56). The library is in the first court, to the left of the entrance, and is open to the public from 11 to 4, except on Sundays and fete days, and in the annual vacation (Aug. 15 to Nov. 1st). BIBLIOTHEQUE NATIONALS. Open from 10 to 4 Sundays, holidays, and the last fortnight in Advent excepted. Students' reading orders may be obtained of the Oonservateur. Foreigners must obtain a recomm?ndation from the Embassy of their ' country. The public are admitted to the collection of engravings and coins only on Tuesday and Friday. The building in which the National Library is stored was known as the Royal Library under successive monarchies, and as the National Library during each republic. The building consists of a block bounded by four streets Richelieu, Colbert, Vivienne, aud des Petits Champs situated batween the Bourse aud the Palais Royal. This block, vast fs it is, has become quite insufficient to contain the yearly increr.sing bulk of the collections, ajid an immense new wing, nearly the size of the present building, is in course of erection. The enormous yearly increase in the National Library may be imngi'jed when it is stated that un^er Louis XIV. it contained 40,01)0 books and 1,100 manuscripts. At present the bojks number batween 3,000,000 and 4,000,000, and the manuscripts nearly 200,000. These collections were organised in 1838, under four depart- ments : Printed books, manuscripts, coins and medals, and engravings. This last collection consists of 8,000 volumes with over 1,000,000 illustrations. Among the relics preserved here is the heart of Voltaire. The department of printed matter contains a greater number of rare and valuable works than any other collection in Europe, includ- ing the finest Aldiues aud Elzevirs, aud publications of Verard ; also a splendid collection of ancient and modern bindings, among them thirty works bound by Grolier. Tha SALLB DBS GLOBES, abutting on the reading room, contains 58 GUIDE TO PARIS. two globes, each nearly 14 feet iii diameter. Tho terrestrial globe illustrates the extent of geographical kuowleige at the out! of the seventeenth century, and the celestial globe the position of 'the stars at the birth of Louis XIV. The large SALLE DE TRAVAIL, or students' room, was built iu 1868. It will seat about 350 persons, and is alike elegant and convenient. The section of maps and geography is the finest collection in Europe of maps and plans in relief. It contains no less than 250,000 maps in all languages, even Japanese and Chinese ; coast maps and charts, many of them of great antiquity ; plans a;id maps of Paris, of Fontainebleau, and other places of interest. The manuscript department is contained in the Galerie Mazarine, just constructed. It would be impossible to indicate the contents of this splendid collection, but a catalogue in two volumes, which has been published by M. Leopold Delisle, will furnish tho student with all the information he may desire. Tho department of engravings is situated on the ground floor, under the Ma/arino gallery. It is lighted by eight windows, and has a door at each end. It contains a complete resume of French art from the fifteenth century to the present day. The department of medals and antiques dates from the time of Louis XIV., and contains over 200,000 specimoi s, which include valuable and interesting curiosities from Greece, Rome, Egypt, and Assyria. The chief object of interest iu the vestibule is a zodiacal monument from Deuderah, which caused much discussion in scientific circles until it was discovered that the Temple of Denderah was not built till the first days of the Roniiii Empire; it was consequently evident that the Egyptians had borrowed the zodiac from the Greeks. The medals and antiques are so numerous that the visitor who desires to inspect them minutely must devote much time to their study. We can merely refer him to the catalogue, prepai'ed by M. Chabouillot, or to the elaborate work of M. Duchalais. The collection of cameos and cut stones is a very fine one. Case IV. contains some of the most valuable treasures. The agate goblet, called the Cup of the Ptolemies ; the Cup of Chosroes, A.D. 379 ; also the celebrated cameo (the largest and finest in existence) representing the Apotheosis of Augustus ; tho Pat ere de Renues, a sacrificial cup of massive gold ; and a Greek gold coin weighing 5| oz. The SALLE DE LUYNES a collection of curiosities, presented to the library by the Duke of that name- -is QJL the right hand of the principal saloii, PART III. SIGHTS OP PARIS. 59 BIBLIOTHEQUE STE. GENEVIEVE. Open ), when the Hotel was the resort of the literary world of Paris. The facade sculptures and those of the Four Seasons in the courtyard are all by the celebrated Jean Gonjo.i. PART III.= THK SIGHTS OF PARIS. 07 CATACOMBS. Open to visitors on the first and third Saturday in each month, at 1 p.m. precisely. Permission may be obtained on application in writing, giving name and address of each intending visitor, to " M. le Directeur des Travaux de Paris, Prefecture de la Seine." The chief entrance is in the Place Denfert Rochereau. Each visitor must provide himself with a light. Tramwa3', Gare dc 1'Est and Montrouge ; St. Germain des Pres and Issy. Tlio Catacombs were formerly quarries of soft limestone, similar to the stone of which a great part of modern Paris is built. These Ml/SKE CARXAVALET. galleries unlerminc an entire district, and on several occasions the roofing has given way, to the danger of persons passing along the bt'-eet. As recently as 1880 an omnibus broke through the soil while passing along the Boulevard d'Enfer. jn 1874 the Government, rkding that ihe quarries were unsafe, caused piors and buttresses to be erected in the galleries, to which 68 OtlDE TO PARIS. were shortly after transferred the bones from the Cimetiere dc3 Innocents, closed at that period. The galleries were thenceforth called Catacombs. During the Revolution thousands of bodies and skeletons were thrown pell-mell into these gloomy vaults, but in 1810 the remains were carefully collected and arranged. The ceiling has been propped up wherever it showed signs of subsidence, and the galleries are lined with bones and skulls in regular order. There are usually three rows of skulls, the intervals between them being filled by arm and leg bones, while the ribs, vertebrae, and smaller bones fill in the vacant spaces. In some cases the bones have been arranged in ornamental designs. Among the remains thrown into the Catacombs during tho Reign of Terror were the skulls of Madame de Pompadour and Philippe fcgalite. The visit to the Catacombs occupies about three-quarters of an hour. CEMETERIES. MONTMARTRE. The oldest cemetery in Paris ; it is situated a few hundred yards to the north of the Place Clichy, on the northern outer boulevards. The chief entrance is by the Avenue du Cimetiere, leading from the Boulevard de Clichy. It may be reached from the Louvre by omnibus inscribed Square des Batignolles, or Batignolles, Clichy, Odeon ; or by tram- way from the St. Lazare Station up the Eue de Eome. The Cemetery of Montmartre, though inferior in size to Pere Lachaise, and also the burial-place of fewer celebrities, is well worth visiting. It covers twenty-five acres of ground, and is lozenge shaped, the greatest length being opposite the main entrance. Two paths diverge right and left from the chief avenue. The monuments are arranged in lines, crossing the latter diagonally. MONT PARNASSE. Situated on the Boulevard Montrouge, close to the "West of France Railway Station, on the south side of the Seine. Omnibus from the Bourse. This cemetery covers twenty-five acres of ground, and is triangular in form^ It was laid out in 1824. The ground is divided by parallel walks into oblong divisions. The monuments are not particularly interesting, and the visitor need not go out of his way to visit this cemetery. PERE LACHATSE. Omnibus, Louvre and Belleville ; Charonne corresponds at Bastille. Tramway, St. Augustin-Vincennes. This, (he largest and most celebrated of the cemeteries of Paris, occupies an area of about 110 acres, on a rising ground at the north- PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 09 east quarter of Paris. It is about three-quarters of a mile from the Bastille, at the end of the long Hue de la Roquette. It is computed that Pere Lachaise contains over 20,000 monu- ments, which have cost upwards of 4,000,000. Few visitors can afford the time to do more than glance at the principal tombs. The splendid monument to the Departed by Bartholome, facing the principal entrance, is well worth a visit, as also are some of the magnificent tombs. The visitor to Pere Lachaise will almost certainly meet one or moi'e funeral processions. It should be borne in mind that on the Continent it is an invariable custom to salute the cortege, whether it passes in the btreet or in a cemetery, by taking off the hat. Those who are in Paris on All Souls' Day should not fail to pay a visit to Pere Lachaise. The day is known as the Jour des Morts, and among Catholics it is de rigueur to visit the tombs of their relatives and friends, renew the wreaths and garlands deposited upon them, and offer up prayers for the souls of the departed. On such an occasion the cemetery presents an interesting and touching appoarance. PICPUS. Situated at the extreme south-east corner of the city, a small private burial ground on the Rue de Picpus, near the Place de la Nation (admission 50 c.). Here were buried a number of the old French aristocracy who perished during the Reign of Terror, 1793. In one corner is the tomb of Lafayette and hig wife, the Countess de Noailles. De Tocqueville and Montalembert have monuments. At one end of the cemetery is a portion set apart for the graves of the victims guillotined at the Barriere du Trone (now de la Nation), uumbering over thirteen hundred. CHAMP DE MARS. Au immense rectangular plot of sandy ground abutting on the south bank of the Seine, exactly opposite the Palace of the Trocadero at one end, and faced by the fieole Militaire at the other. It measures two-thirds of a mile in length, and one-third of a mile in width. The best way of reaching it is by penny steamboat from any of the stations on the Seine marked Bercy-Autenil. The omnibus Porte St. Martin and Crenelle passes the lower end ; also the tramway Place de 1'Etoile and Mont Parnasae. The Champ de Mars was enclosed by the Parisians in 1790 with an embankment 15 feet high, and planted with trees, in anticipation of the FtHo de la Federation, which took place on the anniversary of the taking of the Bastille. No less than 30,000 persons of both sexes and of all classes worked at the embankments. Seats were kid out on the top, and hundreds of thousands of spectators 70 GUIDE TO PA1US. witnessed the fete. An immense temporary structure, called the Altar of the Country, was erected at the lower end of the plain, and upon it Louia XVI., the members of the National Assembly, and the representatives of the army and provincial France, swore fidelity to the Constitution which had been extorted from the monarch by the Revolution of 1789. Unfortunately the after conduct of the king 1 , and his attempted flight, led the people to believe that he was not sincere in his adherence to the Constitution, and tb.it he meditated treachery against the people. The Revolution, which everyone thought terminated, broke out with renewed violence, the royal family were first imprisoned and then guillotined, and the Reign of Terror followed. A monster demonstration in the Champ de Mars in 1791, which ended in an outbreak suppressed by Lafayette with some severity, contributed not a little to excite public indignation against the monarchy. In 1802 the embankment was levelled, and the plain converted into a military training ground. In 1815 Napoleon I. held a great fete here to celebrate his return from Elba. In 1830 Louis Philippe presented colours to the National Guard. In 1852 Napoleon III. distributed to the army the eagles which replaced the Gallic cock, with its motto, " Je chants clair." It is the site of the Exhibitions of 1867, 1878, 1889, and 1900. The river end of the Champ de Mars was laid out as a garden during the Exhibition of 1878, and again in 1889, and is now a most agreeable place of resort, its popularity being increased by the Eiffel Tower, Trocadero, the Exhibition Buildings, etc. CHAMPS This magnificent promenade, which commences afc the west Bide of the Place de la Concorde, was laid out and planted with trees in the seventeenth century, and was known as the Grand Cours down to the time of Lonis XIV. That sybarite monarch was the sponsor of the Champs filysees, which occupy a space 700 yards long by 400 yards wide, terminating at the Rond Point, or Star of Avenues, at the foot of the rising ground. The noble avenue leading from that point upwards to the Arc de Triomphe is, nevertheless, generally assumed to form a part of the Champs filysees. This beatitiful spot is a delightful resort at any hour of the day. In the morning equestrians may be seen in scores ascending it on their way to the Bois. In the afternoon the broad road is thronged by such an array of carriages as not even London can exhibit. On the right side of the Champs filysees are two Cafe Concerts, the Alcazar and the Ambassadeurs, which come into play after dark during the summer ; on the left side the Jardin de Paris. These brilliantly lighted open-air concert-rooms are among the prettiest things to be seen in Paris after (lark, i ^ GUIDE TO PARIS. On the right side is the Palais de 1'Elysee (p. 101), aud on the left the Palacf s of the Beaux Arts (p. 56). The Rond Point is adorned with six fountains and well-kej t flower-beds. To the left is tlie quarter known as the Quartier Francois Premier, so called from the house cf that king. The quarter of the Champs filysees is inhabited by the well-to-do English and American colony of Paris. CHATELET, PLACE DU. A small square on the right bank of the Seine, at the bottom of the Boulevard Sebastopol, tastefully laid out with promruarle under trees in the centre. It is flanked by the Theatre dn Chatelet on the west, and the Theatre Sarah Beruhardt on the east side. Here formerly stood the prison of^the Chatelet (little Castle), a political dungeon, which was as unpopular with the people as the Bastille, but which was not destroyed until 180?. The centre of the Place is occupied by the Fontaine de la Victoire, designed by Bosio. CHURCHES AND CHAPELS (CATHOLIC). Roman Catholic churches are open to the public daily. Those who enter during worship should not disturb the congregation. L'ASSOMPTION. In the Rue St. Houore, opposite the end of the Rue Duphot. An imitation of the Pantheon at Rome. A short time since, Pere Hyacintbe, the priest who seceded from the Catholic Church on the promulgation of Papal infallibility, demanded of the Sta'e per- mission to iustal his Reformed Gallican Church therein, but tho application was refused. ST. AUGUSTIN. Situated at the intersecting angle of Boulevards Hanssmaun and Malesherbes. This church was designed by Baltard, and commenced in 1860, to commemorate the birth of the Prince Imperial. TI.e work occupied eight years. Within two years of its completion its founder, Napoleon III., was in exile, and ten years later the dynn-ty disappeared, on the death of the young prince. ST. BERNARD. Situated a few hundred yards to the north of the Boulevard la Chapelle, between the passenger and goods stations of the North of France Railway. May be reached by tramway up the Boulevard Si-bastopol. A handsome modern building, designed by Maguo, in the style of fourteenth century Gothic. The principal front, facing south- PART Iir. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 73 'ward, is flanked by two octagonal turrets and pierced by a large window. The structure has an elegant spire of wood and iron, 196 feet high. The interior, like many Catholic churches, is decorated with frescoes, and on the side walls are the Seven Stations of the Cross. The stained glass is by Laurent. SAINTE CHAPELLE. In the courtyard of the Palais de Justice. The Saiute Chapelle was erected 1245-48, from designs by Pierre de Montereau, as the Palace Chapel, and also as a shrine for the sacred relics, since removed to Notre Damn, viz. a portion of the Cross and of the Crown of Thorns, purchased, according to tradition, from Jean de Brienne, King of Jerusalem, and his son-in-law, Baldwin, for 3,000,000 francs. This and tho other treasures are now at Notre Dame, where they are shown to the faithful during Passion Week. The beautiful spire was added two centuries later. It was destroyed by fire in 1638, and again in 1793, and restored by Yiollet le Due, 1821. In 1793 the Directory made the Sainte Chapelle a depository for the archives of the Palais de Justice, and the public documents were kept in it as late as 1876, when the city of Paris undertook the restoration of the structure. Since 1878 it has been thrown open to the public. The Sainte Chapelle is justly regarded by the French as the most valuable of all the early monuments of Paris. When prepara- tions were made for the defence of the city, in 1870, it was carefully packed in wood, with a layer of earth between the case and tho structure, and was thus saved from destruction when the Palais de Justice was blazing all around it. When disentombed it was found to be quite uninjured. The edifice consists of two chapels, one above the other. The exterior possesses no striking features, but tho ensemble is remark- ably symmetrical and elegant. The lower chapel, which resembles a crypt, is decorated in blue and gold, and contains a number of tombs of ecclesiastics. The entrance to the upper chapel is by a spiral staircase, formerly used by the Court when attending mass. It consists of a single nave, 118 feet in length, 66 feet high, and 36 feet wide. Nearly the whole of the wall surface is filled by fifteen large windows, 50 feet high by 13 feet wide. The slender grace of the stoae columns, and the splendour of the old stained glass, most of it of the thirteenth century, combine with the poly- chrome decoration of the walls and pillars to produce an interior unique in beauty and proportion. Statues of the Twelve Apostles arc placed against the pillars. 74 GUIDE TO PARIS. The altar, in the style of the thirteenth century, is a modern rpstoration. Behind it is a canopy in carved wood, under which the sacred relics were preserved. A small iron graced window, APELLE. THE UPPER CHAPEL Photo: X., Paris. on the south side of the chapel, was used by Louis XI. and his family, who were in the habit of attending mass without entering the building. Special attention should bo given io the stained glass windows, which chiefly illustrate Old Testament subjects. PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 75 CHAPBLLE EXPIATOIRE. A small memorial chapel ou the Bou'evard Haussmauii, opposite the west end of the St. Lzare Railway Station. It was erected iu 1826, by order of Louis XVIII., to the memory of Louis XVI. and his unfortunate Queen, on the site of the old cemetery of the Madeleine, where their bodies were first interred, before being removed to St. Denis. CHAPELLB ST. FERDINAND. A singular little construction (open 10 to 5 ; fee, 50 c. ) just outside the fortifications, a few hundred yards to the north of the Porte Maillot, in the Route de la Revolte. Omnibus, Hotel de Ville and Porte Maillot, or train from St. Lazare Station to Porte Maillot. This monument is Byzantine and cruciform. It was erected by Louis Philippe to mark the spot where Ferdinand, Duke of Orleans, was killed by a fall from his carriage, in 1842. The fine marble group over the high altar, representing the Descent from the Cross, is by Triqueti, who also executed the group representing the Duko on his deathbed, from the design of Ary Scheffer, the celebrated painter. The figure of a praying angel at the head of the prince is by his sister, Marie d'Orlcans. The windows were designed by Ingres. In the sacristy, on the spot where the prince expired, is a descriptive picture by Jaequand, with portraits of the royal family and of the Court. 8TE. CLOTILDE. On the soixth side of the Seine, just behind the Corps Legislatif. The first and one of tho handsomest Pointed monuments of the modern school of architecture, commenced 1846 from designs by Gau, and completed by Balm, 1859. The total cost of construction was 320,000. The church is 335 feet in length and 105 in width. The nave is 84 feet high. The principal facade has three doorways, and is flanked by two elegant towers. The interior consists of nave and transepts, little decorated but of fine proportions, well relieved by the magnificent modern stained glass windows. These are by Marechal, Hesse, Lamotte, and Chancel. The choir is surrounded by five chapels, decorated with frescoes by Picot. The stained glass windows lighting the choir are extremely fine, and the carved wood stalls exquisite. The chapels in the transepts are adorned with frescoes by Lehniaun; those in the baptistery and mortuary chapel by Delaborde. There are fine statues by Pradier, Triqueti, Guarand, and other sculptors of note. On the wall round the choir are bas-reliefs illustrating the life of Ste. Clotilde, whilst I'losc 1 in the nave and transepts represent the Passion of our Lord. 76 GUIDE TO PARIS. ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. Omnibus, from the Madeleine, Courcelles and Pantheon. Tramway, Gare de 1'Est and Montrouge. An interesting historical monument at the north-east corner of the Place du Pantheon, dates from 1517, but externally it has been disfigured by the Renaissance facade added a century later by Marguerite dc Valois. A square tower on the left of the chief entrance, with round turret, is older than the fa9ade. The group emblematic of the Resurrection over the portal is by Debay. The interior consists of nave and side aisles. The twenty-four pillars which support the vaulting are elegant and graceful. A carved stone screen, with spiral staircases at each end, separates the nave from the choir. The chief monument of interest is the tomb of Ste. Ge'uevieve, patron saint of the Pantheon, which is placed in one of the chapels of the apse. Numerous devotees come to worship at this shrine on the -3rd of January, the fete day of the patron saint. The tomb is covered with elaborate ornamental brass work, through which may b seen the stone coffin enclosing the bones of the saint. In front of the chapel are numerous crutches, said to have been cast away by cripples who were healed by miracle. The stained glass iu this church is the oldest in Paris. The chapels surrounding the choir sire decorated with subjects painted by Grdiier, Pujol, Aligny, aud Caminade, and are worthy of special attention. On the outer wall of the choir are three large pictures by Largilliere, presented to the church by the city of Paris. There are also fine marble statues of Hope and Charity, by Brun. It was in the church of St. Etienne that Archbishop Sibour was murdered by an ex-priest named Verger. ST. EUSTA.CHE. One of the largest mediaeval churches in Paris, situated at the ( nd of the Rue Moutmartre, on the north side of the square of the Halles Centrales. The exterior presents a strange mixture of bastard Gothic or Flamboyant with Renaissance architecture. The- principal building was commenced in 1532, but was not finished till a century later. The west entrance, debased by Grecian architecture, was begun in 1752, and only completed under the Third Empire in 1854. The Church of St. Eustache lias its historic interest as the place where the Feast of Reason was celebrated in 1793. The organ is one of the finest in Paris. The church is largely attended, and the musical services are among the best in the city. High mass is celebrated at 10 a.m. Gounod was once organist here, PART III. THE SIGHTS DP PARIS. 77 ST. FRANCOIS XAVIER. Omnibus, St. Lazare and Vaugirard. Church of the Seminaire des Missions Etrangeres, an institution for training Roman Catholic missionaries, Rue do Bac, near the Bon Marche. The church (behind the Invalides) is plain, and has no special feature of interest, but the seminary, shown to visitors on application, is worth seeing, especially the Chambre des Martyrs, where are instruments of torture and relics of murdered missionaries. STE. GENEVIEVE. Better known as the Pantheon (p. 87). The name Ste. Genevieve is now usually applied to the library only. ST. GERMAIN I/AUXERROIS. Faces the Louvre on the east side. It is alike interesting from its antiquity and its historical association, as the church whose bell rang the signal for the Massacre of St. Bartholomew's. The church was founded as early as the eleventh century, and snme portions of the original structure still exist; but the edifice as it stands was built in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, at the time of transition, and is consequently a mixture of Decorated Gothic with Flamboyant architecture. The west porch consists of a large arcade, with two smaller arches. Above them is a balustrade, which runs round the chnrcli. Above this terrace, but farther back, is a large Flamboyant rose window, with hexagonal turrets on either side. The gable is crowned by a large figure of the Angel of the Last Judgment, by Marochetti. The porch itself is of the sixteenth century, but the statues which decorate it are modern. The porch is adorned above ils arcade with frescoes on a gold ground, representing in the centre the Crucifixion, the Sermon on the Mount, and the Mount of Olives ; on the sides, Christ in the Temple and the Feast of Pentecost. The interior is disappointing on account of the lowuess of the roof. It consists of nave and two aisles, surrounded by chapels. 'J lie decorations are modern throughout. In the transept a Descent fiv m the Cross, by Goicliard, is worthy of special attention. The building to the left of the church is the Mairie, which was built in a style similar to it for the sake of harmony. The tower between the two cost 80,000. It contains a carillon of Ihirty- tight bell?, which can be heard daily at 4 p.m. ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. Situated in the centre of the Boulevard St. Germain. Omnibus, Clichy, Ode'on, and Montmartre. Tramways, Pont de I'Ahna and Gare de Lyon. The Church of St. Germain, which gives its name to the quarter, 78 GUIDE TO PARIS. is the oldest church in Paris, and to the architect or archseologist tbe most interesting. The nave is said to be that of a church of the .tenth century. The choir dates from the twelfth century, or Norman period, designated Gallo- Roman by the French, but the windows were restortd during the early Gothic period. St. Germain, like many other churches, was used for secular purposes during the Revolution, and was allowed to fall into decay, but was restored by Louis Philippe in 1836. The exterior has the massive plainness of the Norman period, but the Gothic restorations are apparent on all sides. The interior presents a singular combination of antiquity and freshness. The building, ancient as it is, was richly decorated, f rom 1852 io 1861. and the best artists in France were engaged on the work. The wall paintings by Flandrin, and other artists under his diiection, are among the finest modern works. They consist of parallels from the Old and New Testament, in juxtaposition. For example, the Burning Bush and the Annunciation ; the offering of Melchisedech and the institution of the Eucharist. Above these subjects are figures from the Old Testament on a ground of gold. The choir frescoes are by Flandrin, and those in the north transept by Cornu. In one of the choir chapels is a monument to James, Duke of Douglas (1645); aud in another the monument of the Douglas family. Monuments to the poet Boileau and the astronomer Descartes are also to be seen in the choir chapels. The first attempt to decorate blank walls is to be seen in Hie garden at the side. The scene represents a bakehouse. ST. GERVAIS. Omnibus, Porte Maillot and Hotel de Ville, along the Rue Eivoli ; Square Montholon, and Gare d'Orl&ms. Situated at the lower end of Rue de Rivoli, below the Hutel de Ville, on the side next the Seine. Architecturally speaking it is inharmonious, being a combination of the Flamboyant with the Re- naissance style of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and, to make matters worse, Desbrosses added, a century later, a Greek portal. The interior is much finer than the outside, being lofty and spaciously vaulted. It is ornamented with several valuable paintings, and in the chapels are two remarkably fine stained glass windows, by Cousin, sixteenth century. INVALIDES. Omnibus, Porte St. Martin and Crenelle (from Louvre). Tramway, St. Philippe du Roule and Montmartre. The Church of St. Louis, which is the true Church of the PART 111.-= THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 79 Invalids.?, consists of a nav.j and two long aisl< s, 231 fet-t in length by 66 feet w'de, b'rilt on ti the Cour d'Houneur of tl:e Military TUE TOUR ST. JACQUES. H6pital des Invalidos. Its columns bear (ablets to the memory of former governors of the institution, amongst others Moutcn, Oudinot, and Jourdan. The nave is hung with standards taken in various battles, and of 80 GUIDE TO PARIS. all nationalities. In 1814 no less than 1,500 captured flags were burned by order of the Minister of War, to prevent their falling into the hands of the allied armies. The Union Jack is not a prominent object among the flags of the Invalides. There are only two : One taken at Fontenoy, 1745 ; the other, on the opposite side of the roof, was nearly new when taken. The last flag on the right came from Sebastopol ; and opposite to it is a white dag from the Malakoff Tower, 1855. The stained glaSi window behind the high altar is modern. A military mass is celebrated every Sunday at noon in the church of the Invalides, and is well worth attending. The service is per- formed by a full military band. For the TOMB OF NAPOLEON see p. 107. ST. JACQUES LA BOUCHERIE. Tour St. Jacques. Of this church, which owed its sobriquet to a slaughter-house in the neighbourhood, and which was situated in the Place St. Jacques, the tower alone remains. The church was exceedingly ancient, having been built early in the twelfth century. It was restored and enlarged from time to time, as Paris increased, but during the Revolution it was sold to a speculative builder, who destroyed it, with the exception of the tower, which the Government had protected by a special clause. The tower was begun in 1508, and was finished in 1522 ; but it has in recent years been almost completely restored. It is chiefly interesting for its association with Pascal, who is said to have made here some of his first experi- ments on the weight of the atmosphere. ST. JEAN BAPTISTE. Situated in the Rue de Belleville, to the south-east of the park of the Buttes Chaumont. It was designed by Lassus, and conse- crated in 1858, and is one of the handsomest modera churches of Paris. Two noble towers, ]98 feet high, flank the portal of the principal entrance. The architecture is in the style of the fifteen'h century, Pointed Gothic. MADELEINE. The Madeleine, or Church of St. Mary Magdalene, is situated at Ihe west end of the great boulevards, in a square called the Place de la Madeleine. This well-known temple is little more than a century old, the foundation having been laid in 1764 by Louis XV. The original design was similar to that of the Pantheon, but the architect did not carry the building very far, aud his successor, Couture, reverted to the Parthenon at Athens for his inspiration PART 111. THE S10HTS OP PARIS. 81 when the work was entrusted to him in 1777. The Revolution put a stjp to building operations, but one of the first public acts of Napoleon when Emperor was to order its completion, with the inscription, " L'Empereur Napoleon aux soldats de la grande armee." The execution of this scheme was entrusted to Pierre Vignon ; but again force majeure, in the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo, intervened. At the Restoration Louis XVIII. continued the work, but the THE MADELEINE. architect, Viguon, did not live to complete it, and at his death in 1828 Hue was appointed architect. The Madeleine was ultimately completed and consecrated in 1330. Its total cost amounted to 520,000. The proportions of the Madeleine, as designed by Couture, are so admirable that the spectator loses sight of its immense size. It is 354 feet in length, 141 feet broad, and 100 feet high. The base- ment on which it stands is about twenty-three feet high, and it is approached by a flight of twenty-eight steps. It is flanked by massive Corinthian columns, standing well away from the structure, and sixty in number. The outer walls are not pierced by windows, but have seventeen niches on either side, filled by modern statues of saints. 82 GUIDE to PARIS. The tympanum over the chief entrance, facing the Rue R-.yale and Luxor Obelisk, is ornamented by a splendid group of sta'uiry in bas-relief by Lemaire, representing the Last Judgment. The central figure of the SaA'iour is seventeen feet in height. The she< p, or elect, are on the right hand, and the condemned on the left, Mary Magdalene is represented interceding for them. The magnificent bronze doors were designed by Triqueti. The inteiior is open to visitors during the afternoon. During the morning masses are said hourly, and although visitors may ent.-r they are not allowed to disturb the worshippers. The building is one vast hall, ceiled in three domed sections, which admit the light. The domed ceiling is decorated in colours and gold, but the general effect is somewhat sombre, relieved, however, by the varying colours of the high altar, an immense structure at the north end. There are seats in the centre for 5,000 persons. The group on the high altar is by Maroehetti. It represents the Magdalene carried into Paradise by two angels. Behind the altar is a series of fine frescoes hy Ziegler. High mass is celebrated in the Madeleine with much pomp and splendour. On great festivals the principal singers and the orchestra of the opera are engaged. The latter are seated in the amphitheatre surrounding the altar. The soprano parts are performed by boys, some of whom have voices of remarkable purity and power. The finest mass of the year is on Whit-Sunday. The Madeleine was greatly imperilled during the Commune, when a desperate struggle took place at the barricade erected across the Rue Royale in front of it. Fortunately it sustained but little injury, being struck by bullets only, and the damage done has been so skilfully repaired that no traces of it are to be seen. A large number of Communists fled into the church for shelter when the barricade of the Rue Royale was stormed. The sanctuary did no^, however, protect them; they were slaughtered en masse, ST. MfcDARD. The church of the French St. S within is in the 'Rue Mouffetard, close to the Jardin des Plautea. The building is of little interest, but behind it, up to the middle of the last cen- tury, was the tomb of the canonised Abbe Paris, which had the reputation of working miracles. In 1732 pilgrimages to the shrino were so numerous that Louis XV. put a stop to them. This circum- stance gave rise to the trenchant sarcasm : De par le Roi, defense & Dieil, De faive miracle en ce lieu. PART III. THE SIGHTS OP PARIS. 83 ST. MEREI. Properly the Church of St. Mederic (at the lower eud of Rue St. Martin, near the Rue do Rivoli). A haiidsome Gothic edifice, with Flamboyant portal, marking the t-ansition period, 15'20 to 1612. It contains a large Renaissance chapel, with statues by Debay. The frescoes in the interior are by Lehmann, Amaury, Duval, Chasseriau, and Lepaulle. There are also two large pictures by Vanloo. ST. NICOLAS DES CHAMPS. Near the Square des Arts et Metiers, in the Rue St. Martin. Has a Gothic portal, by Colo, of the Late Decorated period. NOTRE DAME. The omnibus from the Square des Batignolles to the Jardin des Plantes, which comes down the Avenue de VOpera to the Palais Royal, passes by this church. The blue omnibus, St. Lazare and St. Michel, also comes within easy walking distance. The cathedral church of Paris, and by far the finest architectur- ally, is ou the centre of the island which formerly comprised tlio city of Paris. Its noble west towers and graceful spire can be seen at various points on the river banks, and the visitor on foot experi- ences no difficulty in finding it. The Cathedral of Notre Dame was erected on thesita of a church of the fourth century; it was founded in 1163, and consecrated in ]182. The nave and choir are of that period, viz., Early Pointed. The west front is of a century latei', but all parts of the building have since been restored at various periods, down to as late a date as 1845. Although it is one of the noblest Gothic buildings in existence, the first impression given by Notre Dame is disappointing. From ils low position, and from its being surrounded on three sides by immense public buildings and houses six or seven storeys high, it appears much smaller than it really is. It consists of nave and double aisles, crossed by a transept, and is 417 feet long by 158 feet broad. The west front is the most remarkable part, and being the earliest specimen of Decorated Gothic in France it served as a model for numerous cathedrals in the provinces. The fa9ade is divided into three sections, each of them containing a large recessed portal. All these doorways were elaborately ornamented with carved figures and mouldings, but during the numerous vicissitudes to which the building has been subject many of the figures have been badly mutilated. The carvings over the central portal represent the Last Judgment. The central figure of the Saviour b modern. 81 oriDfi TO The right pox-tal is dedicated to St. Anne; the left portal, where the entrance is, to the Virgin. Above these is the Galerie des Hois, a colonnade containing twenty-eight statues of French kings, executed during the present century, to rep'ace older figures destroyed in the anti-monarchical frenzy of the Revolution. The second storey is a fine specimen of early Gothic. In the centre is an embossed rose window, 42 feet in diameter; on either side is a double pointed window, with small rose window above the apex. In the centre, in front of the great window, is a statue of the Virgin, with tvro angels. From this storey spring the bases of the two towers, which are connected by a Gothic gallery, formed of double arches surmounted by elegant trefoil tracery. The columns of this gallery are slender and graceful, like the architecture of the nave and apse ; it is surmounted by a balustrade adorned with queer grotesques arid gargoyles. The faade is completed by two square towers, each pierced by eight Pointed windows with crocketed Gothic arches, atd graceful turrets at the four corners. The architecture of the north and south facades is in many respects finer than that of the west end. The beauty and delicacy of the stone tracery, the symmetry of proportion, and the superb designs of the great rose windows form an ensemble surpassed by few Gothic buildings. Unfortunately the position of the cathedral does not admit of their being seen to advantage. The general effect of the exterior of Notre Dame, like that of most Continental churches, is weakened by the numerous flying buttresses which are rendered necessary by the construction of the chapels along the nave and around the choir. The interior is open from morning till night on weekdays. Admission to the choir galleries, during high mass on Sundays, at i<) a.m., 50 c. ; on special occasions, 1 franc. The general effect of the interior is imposing but sombre, the light admitted by the stained glass windows being insufficient. The columns supporting the roof are graceful ; they are seventy-five in number, and raise the vaulting to a height of 110 feet. A triforium with 108 small pillars, and clerestory pierced with thirty-seven large windows, run round the building above the inner aisles. The organ (1750), restored in 1868, is a noble instrument, having over 5,000 pipes. The pulpit, designed by Viollet le Due, is a splendid specimen of modern wood carving. The visitor will not fail to admire the fine tracery and splendid old glass in the large rose windows ; nor should the choir railings 86 GUIDE TO PARIS. and stalls, with wood carvings, escape attention. The monuments in the choir chapels lepreseut former prelates and cardinals. On the outer wall of the choir are a number of interesting stone reliefs, by Ravy and De Bouteillier, representing scenes from the life of Christ, . The treasury and sacristy are shown daily, Sundays excepted ; fee 50 c. The former contains fragments of the Crown of Thorns, a nail .and wood of the Cross, and many other relics formerly in the Ste. Chapelle. Clothes and relics of Archbishops Affre, Sibour, and Darboy are shown in the chapter house. Most visitors to Notre Dame will think it worth while to ascend the towers, which command the finest view in the city. The entrance is at the west corner, on the north side (fee, including belfry, 40 c.). The towers of Notre Dame are familiar to most persons from their description by Victor Hugo. The great bell or Bourdon in the eouth tower is among the largest in Eui'ope. It weighs 16 tons, and its clapper 10 cwt. ; but it does not pi*odnce so much sound as Big Ben at Westminster, probably because of its less elevated position. NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE. Situated in the Rue Chateaudun, opposite the north end of the Rue Laffitte ; can be seen from the Boulevard des Italieus. A modern edifice in the style of a basilica. The principal por- tico is Corinthian; the group over the tympanum, by Nauteuil, represents tho Infant Jesus adored by angels. The interior, consisting of nave and two aisles, is decorated with a profusion of colour, and the walls are adorned with frescoes. Those in the nave represent events in the life of the Virgin. In the apse are three large tableaux: The Presentation of Christ in the Temple, by Helm ; Christ Teaching in the Temple, by Drolling ; and, between the two, the Coronation of the Virgin, by Picot. The frescoes in the chapels aie by Bloudel and Perin. NOTRE DAME DES VICTOIRE8. A seventeenth century church, situated on the north-west side of the Place des Victoires, at the south end of the street of the same name, close to the Bank of France. It was erected to commemorate the siege of La Rochelle, and from the Coup d'Etat to the fall of the Third Empire was the principal Bonapartist church in Pari?^ During the Revolution of 1793 it was used as a Bourse, or Exchange, but was restored to the order of the Petits Peres in 1809, and for sixty years was much visited by devotees as a shrine for pilgrims. Like all such churches, it bears on its walls numbers of votive tablets. PART III, -THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 87 PANTHEON. Open daily, from 10 a.m. to 5 in summer, and 4p.m. in winter. Mondays excepted. Admission to tombs and dome, with permission from M. le Directeur des Beaux Arts, 3, Rue de Valois (Palais Royal). This national mausoleum, designed by Soufflot, and completed THE PANTHEOX. Photo : X , Paris. under Louis XV., is the most conspicuous object south of the Seine, next to the gilded dome of the Invalides. It (.lauds on the highest 88 GUIDE TO PARIS. point in the quarter, at the end of the Rue Soufflot, a little to the east of the Luxembourg, and may be reached by omnibus or train- way from the north side of the river. The building may be easily recognised by the general resemblance of its dome, at a distance, to that of St. Paul's. The Pantheon was erected as a church, and dedicated by order of Louis XY. to Ste. Genevieve, whose body was there interred A.D. 572, THE PANTHEON FROM THE LUXEMBOURG GARDENS. a chapel being erected over her tomb. The chapel was replaced by' the old church of Ste. Geuevieve, which, having fallen into decay, was pulled down to make way for the present structure. The Convention of 1791, however, decreed that ihe building should be converted into a memorial temple, and that the inscription " Aux grands homines la patrie reconnaissance " should be engraved on the facade of the building. Three bronze doors open into the nave. On the right side of the entrance is a modern statue of St. Dionysius by Perraud ; on the left a statue of St. Remigius by Cavelier. In 1806 Napoleon I. passed a decree ordering the completion of the church of Ste. Genevievo, and its opening for worship according to the intention of its founder, at the same time ordering that it PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 89 should be u-:ed as the sepulchre of great dignitaries, officers of the Empire, senators, and officers of the Legion of Honour. In 1821 the inscription was erased by decree of Louis XV III., and the building handed over to the Archbishop of Paris for divine worship. On the 26th August, 1830, Louis Philippe caused the inscription to be replaced, according to the intention of the Convention that the Pantheon should be used as a National Mausoleum. Lastly, in 1851, Louis Napoleon, as President of the Republic, restored the Pantheon to the Church under the invocation of Ste. Genevieve. Dining the Revolution of 1848 the building was used as the head- quarters of the insurgents, and in 1871 it was occupied by the leaders of the Commune. Barricades were erected around it, and the Vei-sailles troops with difficulty succeeded in gaining possession of the building. Fortunately the Communists had not time to carry out their intention of blowing up the edifice, and the powder which they had stored in the crypt fell into the hands of the army of the Republic. The exterior of the Pantheon is of vast proportions, but archi- tecturally is not interesting. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, 3t"'9 feet long and 276 feet across. The dome, 272 feet high, stands on a cylinder surrounded by open Corintlrau columns, and is crowned by a lantern. The west entrance consists of a portico resembling that of the Pantheon at Rome, and is approached by a flight of eleven steps. The portico is supported by twenty-two Corinthian columns 82 feet high. The tympanum is ornamented by a group of statues in high relief, by David of Angiers, representing the "grands hommes" to whom the dedication refers. On the left side are the worthies of the Revolution, Mirabeau, Monge, Male- sherbcs, Fenelou the author, Berthollet the chemist, and Laplace the astronomer ; also Carnot, David, Cuvier. Voltaire, and Rous- seau. All these are represented under the protection of Liberty. On the right side, under the sheltering wing of History, are the eminent soldiers of the Republic and the Empire. Prominent among them is Napoleon as leader of the army of Italy. The young drummer of Arcola, famous in the history of Napoleon's war s , is also a noticeable figure. Two marble groups under the portico are by Maindron. Tho first represents Ste. Genevieve pleading with Attila, leader of tho Huns, for the city of Paris; the second, the Baptism of Clovis by St. Reinigius. The interior of the Pantheou is simple and majestic. Tho dome, divided into three sections, is adorned with paintings by Gros, and above them with frescoes by Gerard. They are very inferior to the wall paintings below described. In the colonnade on the south side are two frescoes by Puvis de 90 GUIDE TO PAUIS. Chavaunes. The first, on one single panel, represents Ste. Geuevicve as a child ; the second, in four panels, the finding of the child saint by St. Germain and St. Lupns. Each panel is surrounded by a graceful tapestried border, with the monogram of the saint on the four sides; on the frieze above Faith, Hope, and Charity, and a procession of saints. The composition, design, and harmony of colour in these frescoes are unrivalled. They were completed in 1877. The frescoes behind the altar in the south transept are by Maillot. They are admirably paintpd, but the composition is mediocre ; the colours are florid and out of harmony with the building. On the south colonnade in the apse are some superb mural paintings by Laurens, representing the death of Ste. Geuevieve, on three panels ; and an angel hovering over her tomb, on the fourth. The com- position and execution, the design of the tapestried borders, and the character of the groups are excellent, but the effect is marred by the light from the dome. In the north transept is a splendid series of groups by Cabanel, representing scenes from the life of St. Louis. The north aisle contains the Chapel of Notre Dame, and the south aisle the Chapel of Ste. Genevieve, patroness of the church. The high altar is by Pilon. On each side of the nave is a Corinthian colonnade, which extends round the transepts, and is partially decorated with frescoes by living artists, unquestionably the finest productions of the nineteenth century. Three groups, already completed, are deserving of careful study. The staircase Irading to the dome is in the north transept. The first section is reached by ascending 331 steps. Here may be studied the frescoes by Gros, which represent the Homage of French Kings to Ste. Genevieve. Above this composition, which covers 352 square yards, are King Louis XVI. and his qupen, the Dauphin (Louis XVII.), and Madame Elisabeth, sister to the king, all of whom perished in the Revolution of 1792. A flight of ninety-four steps leads to the lantern, which com- niands a view of Paris. The vaults are entered by a staircase behind the high altar. The most important tombs to be seen are those of Voltaire, Rousseau, President Carnot, and Victor Hugo. There is a singular echo in a certain part of the vaults. ST. PHILIPPE DU EOULE. A classic building, dating from the end of the eighteenth cent ut y, situated on the Ruo du Faubourg St. Honore, between the Avenue des Champs tlysees and the Boulevard Haussrnanu. It is iv starting-point of a line of omnibuses running down the Rue du PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 91 Faubourg St. Honore'and Rue Moutinartre to the Gare de Lyou, and is also a point of correspondence of the lines Trocadero and Gare de 1'Est, Ternes and Filles du Calvaire, Bourse and Passy. The Church of St. Philippe is chiefly remarkable for its aristocratic congrfgation. More fashionable weddings and aristo- cratic funerals are celebrated in it than in any other church in Paris. Its architecture is Doric both inside and outside. It is simple and unpretending, and, like the Madeleine, it is lighted from the top. There is a large chapel in the apse. SACB CCEUR. 31, Rue do la Barre. Open every day. Church, free ; crypt, 25 c. ; dome, ?0 c. ; big bell (Savoyarde) 50 c. This church is situated on the highest point of Paris, whence can be had the finest view of the city. The building is used for divine worship, although not yet finished. Designed by Abadie in Ilie Romanesque-Byzantine style, it is estimated to cost over '1,000,000. It is slowly but surely proceeding to completion, when it will be one of the finest of Parisian churches. SORBOMNE. Church of the Theological Faculty of Paris, on the Boulevard St. Michel, to the south of the Bouh-vard St. Germain, left side of the boulevard. This edifice, built by Cardinal Richelieu, 1635, is surmounted by a dome and cross. The statues adorning the facade are modern (1875). They represent Religion, by Cabet ; Theology, by Cuguot ; Sci< uce, by Delaplanche ; and Philosophy, by Guillaumo. The* chief object of interest in the interior is the tomb of Richelieu, by Girardou. In 1789 the body of the cardinal was exhumed, and fxposed to indignities, and was only replaced in 1866. Tho frescoes on the dome, by Philip de Chamjr-aigne, are very fine. ST. SULPICE. Situated on the Place St. Sulpice, to the north-west of the Luxembourg, and south of the Boulevard St. Germain ; is the largest and richest church south of the Seine. May be reached by omnibus Clichy and Odeon, or Courcelles and Pantheon. A Pointed Gothic church of the twelfth century formerly occupied the site of this structure, but it being too small for the requirements of the parish, notwithstanding restorations under Louis XIF., Francis I., and Louis XIII.. ihe present edifice was commenced in 1646, the foundation stone being laid by Anne of Austria, widow Of Louis XIJI, 92 GUIDE TO PARIS. The west facade, begun by Servaudoui iu 1733. is a inix'urd of Doric and Ionic architecture. The towers are of unequal height, a circumstance explained by some persons by the statement that the architect was forbidden to rival the towers of Notre Dame. The nave is 462 feet long, 183 feet wide, and 104 feet high. It is flanked by s : do aisles and eight- een chapels. The chapels are adorned with fine frescoes, mostly by artists of the present century. Iu the first chapel on the right is an in- teresting picture by Philip de Champaigne. In the nave are two large Ij-'-niiiers in the form of shclh resting on marble rockwork, by Pigalle. Tke : e shells were pre- sented to Francis I. by the Republic of Venice. A curious meridian i v l~43) is traced on tho pavement of the transept. The chapel behind the altar contains a statue of the Virgin and the Infant Jesus. ST. THOMAS D'AQUIN. On the north side of the Boulevard St. Germain. Is chiefly interesting from the fine paintings it contain?, viz., St. Thomas Aquinas Calming a Storm, by Ary Scheffer; ceiling, by Lemoine, representing the Ascension; a Descent from the Cross, by Guillemot; and Christ on the Mount of OHves, by Bertjn, THE HiOUliU.NNE. PAttT III. THE SIGHTS OP PARIS. 03 LA TRINITJv A modern Renaissance building designed by Ballu, situated at the junction of the Rues St. Lazare and Chateaudun. The facade consists of three portals with openwork rose window, and handsome clock tower 200 feet high. Above the high altar is a large chapel, adorned with paintings by Levy and Delaunay. VAL DE GRACE. The church of the militai'y hospital of the same name. It is on the south side of the Seine, a little to the east of the Observ- atoire. The design is by Mansart, but the church was completed by Lemuel. The dome, 132 feet high, is a reduced copy of St. Peter's at Rome. The interior vaulting is covered by a large fresco by Mignard. The higli altar, like the dome, is copied from that in St. Peter's. The Church of Val de Grace was the burial-place of numbers of the family of Bourbon and Orleans. It also contains the tomb of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I. of England. ST. VINCENT DE PAUL. This church is situated in the Place Lafayette. It was built in the early part of the present century, and is in the stjle of the early Roman basilica. It is worthy of a visit, chiefly on account of some remarkably fine frescoes painted by Hippolyte Flandrin, and representing two long processions of Christian converts marching Inwards Paradise; they are generally considered to be among the best paintings he ever executed. The stalls in the choir by Millet, and the painting by Picot in the dome a Christ seated on a Throne algo deserve special attention. CLUNY, MUSEE DE, ET DBS THERMES. Situated on the Boulevard St. Germain, at its intersection with the Boulevard St. Michel. May be reached from the north side of the Seine by omnibus St. Lazare and St. Michel, or by tramway Gare de 1'Est and Montrouge ; also .by tram- way Pont de 1'Alma and Bastille, or Gare de Lyon. Open to the public daily, except Mondays and holidays, 11 to 4. The most ancient, and archseologically the most interesting, of all the museums of Paris. It was formerly a palace of the Roman Emperor Chlorus Constantine, A.D. 292, and here Julian the Apos- tate was declared Emperor by his army, A.D. 360. A portion of the palace and of the thermes, or Roman baths, is still preserved in the grounds. The palace was occupied by the early Frank kings, until they transferred their seat to the Cite. The H6tel de Cluny, in which is stored the most remarkable collection of ctmosities in Paris, was built at the beginning of -the 94 GUibii to sixteenth century by the abbots of the Monastery of Clir.iy, ik v ;li' M:\con. The building is a combination of late Gothic and Renais- sance architecture, and is in excellent preservation. The property passed from the hands of the monks into the hands of the kings of France, and was (i conveyed " to the nation by the Directory ; the thermes, or Roman baths, being handed over to the Municipality. In 1833 M. du Sommerard, a connoisseur of mediaeval cariosities, became possessor of the Hotel, and installed his fine museum there- in. At his death the entire collection was purchased, with the building, by the Government, and has since been largely extended. -The entrance to the hotel is in the Rue du Sommerard, on the left side of the Boulevard St. Michel. On entering the court, a gravel path under a low archway leads to the grounds. Tuming to the left, a number of interesting architectural fragments may be observed, mostly brought from buildings demolished in modern city improvements. Among these the most interesting are the doorway of the old church of St. Benoit, and three openwork Romanesque arches from the Abbey of Argenteuil. In the left corner are the lofty vaults of the thermes. The frigidarium. or cold bath room, measured 65 feet long, 37| feet broad, and 59 feet high. The walls afford a go^d illustration of the solidity with which the Romans constructed their buildings. The columns supporting the vaults are decorated with figures representing the prow of a vessel, supposed to be the origin of the arms of Paris a boat with the motto, " Fluctuat nee mergitur." It is certain, from the inscription on a mutilated Roman altar in these' baths, that there was a Corporation of Boatmen in Paris in the time of Tiberius, with whom the decora- tions of the columns may have been identified. A Roman road formerly passed along the Rue St. Jacques, close to the east si do of the thermes. Complete cata^gues and photographs can b? obtained from f.ie caretakers. COLONNE VENDOME. None of (he existing monuments of Paris convoys a better im- pression of the magnitude of the designs of Napoleon I. than tlii-> fine trophy. The idea of melting J,200 cannon taken in battle from the Russians and Austrians, and constructing them into a bronze column, 142 feet in height and 13 feet in diameter, crowned by hi-; own statue, was worthy of the man Avhose ambition was not limited to the subjugation of Europe, but who aspired to be the conqueror of the world, like Alexander the Great. The Colonne Vendome was thrown down by the Commune n May, 1871, npon the motion of the painter Courbet. It was recon structed in 1874 according to the old plans. OG GUIDE TO PAfttS, A staircase lead's to the summit of the column, and visitors wove formerly allowed to ascend, but the privilege is now withdrawn. CONCIERGERIE. Admission from the Quay n Thursdays with permission from the Prefet of Police, Rue Lutece (opposite the Palais de Justice). This building is the prison attached to the Palais de Justice, and is situated on the Quai de 1'Horloge, on the north side of the palace, and south side of the river. It is occupied by persons await- ing trial, and it was here that Prince Jerome Napoleon was confined in 18^3, after the publication of his famous manifesto after the death of Gambetta. The chief interest in the building, however, lies in its historical associations. The cell occupied by Marie Antoinette will interest everybody. The actual crucifix and armchair she used are still there. Next to her cell is the one where Robespierre was confined. CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. Situated about the centre of the Rue St. Martin (No. 292), halfway between the Barriere St. Martin and the Seine, on the east side of the street. The library is open daily "(except Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. ; and on the evenings of Tuesday to Saturday inclusive, from 7.30 to 10 p.m. Ad- mission to the collections free on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, 10 to 4. The building in which the interesting collections of this estab- lishment are preserved was formerly the Benedictine Abbey of St. Martin in the Fields, but was "conveyed " by the Convention at the end of the last century. Handsome wings have been constructed, and the establishment has been separated from the surrounding buildings. The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers may be described in English as the Department of Technical Education. It was origin- ally intended as a museum only, but courses of free evening lectures, adapted for the working class, are now given, of winch notices are affixed at the entrance in the Rue St. Martin. An inscription over the door records the foundation of the abbey, A.D. 1060 ; the found- ation of the Conservatoire by the Convention in 179-t ; and its transfer in 1798.. The collections are divided into twenty-four sections.. No cata- logue is required, as all the objects are inscribed. Just within the entrance are the vestibule and the Salle d'Echos. the former. a museum, of ploughs, the latter a kind of whispering gallery. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 97 CONSERVATOIRE DE MUSIQUE. This important institution generally known simply as the Conservatoire is situated in the Rue du Faubourg Poisscnuiere, on the left side when ascending the street from the Boulevard Poissouniere. The building is uninteresting. The Ionic entrance is decorated with statues of Tragedy, Comedy, Opera, and Comic Opera. The institution is over one hundred years old, having been founded in 1781 for the training of artists and composers of music, and tho gratuitous instruction of a certain number of pupils in music, lyric and dramatic declamation, acting, solo and chorus singing, harmony, counterpoint, and fugue. Six hundred competitors are admitted to the annual contests for the scholarships, and a grand prix of 120 for three years given annually for the best cantata composed by a pupil. The concerts of the Conservatoire are held fortnightly from January to April. The music is of the highest order. There are also three sacred concerts in Passion Week. It is not easy to gain admittance, but application may be made at the institution on tho Friday before each concert. The fine collection of musical instruments can be visited every Monday and Thursday, 11 to 4. CORPS LliGISLATIF (CHAMBRE DES Stands on the south bank of the Seine, at the end of the Pont do la Concorde, facing the Place de la Concorde and Madeleine. It was originally called the Palais Bourbon, and still goes by that name, especially among Monarchists. It was commenced by the Dowager Duchess of Bourbon, from designs of Girardiui, and completed in 1807 by Mausart. The facade overlooking the Seine is Corinthian. The tympanum, supported by twelve columns, is adorned with a group in low relief, by Cortot, representing Constitutional France summoning Commerce. Liberty and Public Order support the principal figiu-e. The front of the Palace is on the south side, and faces the court known as the Place du Palais Bourbon. The interior contains a number of fine rooms. The ceiling o? the Salle do la Paix is by Veniet, and that of tho Salle duTronc by Delacroix. The Salle Casiinir Pcrier, named after a former Presi- dent of the Chamber ol Deputies, contains statues of Mirabeau and Bailly, Maire of Paris during the Revolution of 1781); also a statue of Perier by Duret, and of General Foy by Desprez. The Salle des Seances, where the Chamber of Deputies now meets, is adorned with allegorical statues. The Salle des Conferences is decorated by Heirn. The great picture of Mazeppa by Horace Vernet is in this room. 98 GUIDE TO PARIS. It was during the Franco- German War in 1870 that the Assembly on the 4th September discussed the capitulation of Sedan in the Salle des Seances, and could arrive at no conclusion, the uproar pre- venting even M. Gambetta from making himself heard. The excited mob outside, too impatient to await the decision of the Chamber, burst into the hall and dispersed the Assembly, clamouring for the proclamation of the Republic. Gambetta, Jules Favrc, and other Republican leaders left for the Hotel de Ville, accompanied by the Radical deputies and the crowd. The Republic was proclaimed from the steps of the Hotel de Ville and a Government was formed. The same day the Empress fled from Paris. On the outbreak of the Commune in March, 1871, the Assembly removed to Versailles, and met in the Palace there for ten years. In 1881 they returned to their old quarters, not without apprehension lest an effort should be made by the populace to coerce their deliberations. ECOLE DE MKDECINE. An eighteenth-century building, situated in the street of the same name, a little west of the Boulevard St. Michel, and on the Boulevard St. Germain. The court facing the entrance is Ionic, the facade of the building Corinthian. A fine bronze statue of Pichnt the anatomist, by David d' Angers, has been placed in the court facing the entrance. The relief on the tympanum represents Louis XV., attended by Wisdom and Benevolence, giving privileges to the School of Surgery. The amphitheatre of the school has seats for 1,4, which exactly fits the channel. "When these boats are launched at the head of the sewer, they are carried by the curi-ent down to the foot, sweeping before them every kind of impurity and obstruction. In cases of sudden storm persons employed in the sewers are subject to considerable risk, and occasionally some of the employees are drowned through a sudden flushing of the smaller drains. The manholes which occur at frequent intervals in all the public thorough- fares are very useful in such contingencies. The sewers may be visited twice a month by a limited number of persons. Application should be addressed in writing to " M. le Directeur des Eaux et des Egouts, k la Prefecture de la Seine," on papier timbre (60 c.), stating how many visitors, and with a stamp for reply. EIFFEL TOWER-CHAMP DE MARS. This marvel of modern engineering is the highest tower in the world, being just on 1,000 feet. It was the great hit of the 1839 Exhibition, and its popularity is as great now as ever. Its ascent should not be missed. On a fine clear day a most extensive view is obtainable, and a panorama on the top stage indicates everything that is visible. L'ELYSEE, PALAIS DE. A royal palace and residence, situated on the north side of the Champs Elysees, with a frontage also on the Rue du Faubourg St. Honore. The garden of the palace is separated from the Champs Elysees by a carriage road. The building was erected by order of the Comte d'Evreux in 1718. During the reign of Louis XV.it became the property of Madame de Pompadour. On the death of that notorious woman her heirs sold it to the king, who used it as a residence for foreign ambassadors. During the first part of the next reign the palace was the residence of the Duchesse de Bourbon, and was called the Elysee Bourbon. "When the Revolution took place, and the Court and royal family no longer required residences, the palace was put up for sale, but no one came forward to buy it. The Convention, that it might not be useless, converted it into a Government printing office ; and the Directory turned the royal residence to account, and at the same time gratified their hatred of the monarchy, by letting it for the purpose of a gambling-hell. Napoleon I. ceded the palace to his brother Louis, who, with his Queen, the Reine Hortense, came to live at the Elysee after abdicat- ing the throne of Holland. Napoleon himself resided there for a few days on his return from Elba. In 1815, when the Allies entered TO PAKtS. 102 Paris, it was occupied by the Duke of Wellington and Alexander 1., Emperor of Russia, and afterwards by the Due de Berri. During" the Revolution of 1830 the palace was again deserted, and remained without a tenant until Napoleon III. became President of the Republic of 1848. It was here that, on the night of December 1st, 1851, he planned the details of the coup d'etat, which was carried out on the following day. Four years later the Queen of England dined here while on a "visit to the Emperor. In 1867 the palace was KXTUANCE TO THE PALAIS I/EI.YSf.F.. placed at the disposal of the Sultan of Turkey and the Emperors of Kussia and Austria, during their visit to the Great Exhibition. Since 1871 the HJlysee has been the official residence of the President of the Republic. GALLIERA (MUSEE). 10, Rue Pierre Charron (near the Trocadefo), Open ever}' clay except Monday 10 to 4. Presented to the city of Paris by the Duchess of Galli^ra. COLLECTIONS OF INDUSTRIAL ART. Locks, enamels, bindings, stoneware, glassware, etc. There are also some splendid " Gobelins " and other tapestries, drawings by Puvis de Chavannes, statues bought at recent salons, e!c. 104 GUIDE TO PARIS. THE GOBELINS. The National Manufactory of Tapestry is situated on the Avenue des Gobelins, in the south-east corner of the city, near the Place d'ltalie, on the southern outer Boulevards. May be reached by tramways from Chatelet to Ivry and Yitr3\ Omnibuses and tramways from various points to Square Cluny. Omnibuses direct to the Gobelins (Gare du Nord and Montsouris). From the centre of Paris, N. D. de Lorette, Bd., St. Marcel, Halles Centrales, to Porte d'lvry ; from the east, haronne to Place d'ltalie. Admission to tapestry and workshops on Wednesdays and Saturdays, 1 to 3 o'clock. Dye-works shown on special written permission from the director. Catalogue, 50 centimes. The Gobelins owes its name to JEAN GOBELIN, a celebrated dyer, who established dye works on the banks of the Bievre, a small brook falling into the Seine above the Pont d'Austerlitz, whose waters possessed suitable chemical properties. The Gobelin family carried on the business for two centuries, until Colbert, the great Minister of Commerce under Louis XIV., founded on the samo spot a Government manufactory of vast dimensions, which was afterwards enlarged, and Avas formerly one of the principal sights of Paris. The manufactory -was not a success commercially, but it was carried on because the excellent designs and workmanship produced by the State were supposed to assist and encourage private mami- facturers. Ultimately, nearly all the choice tapestries produced at the Gobelins were reserved for the use of the royal family of France, or for presents to foreign Courts or ambassadors. Attached to the tapestry factory is the S shades of wool are used ir tlu-ir manufacture. fttE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 105 GUIMET (MUSE'E). Place d'lena. Open every clay except Monday from 12 to 4. This Institution, known also as the Musee National des Re- ligions, consists of a museum of the religions of the extreme East, India, Thibet, China, Japan, etc., with a collection of Oriental porcelain and antiquities. The library contains many thousands of volumes. Free lectures are periodically given on matters connected with the Far East. HOTEL DIEU. One of the largest hospitals in Paris, with accommodation for nearly 1,000 patients. It is situated on the north side of the Place Parvis Notre Dame. The building is modern, but the foundation is amongst the oldest in Paris, dating from Clovis II., A.D. 660. The old hospital stood on the site now occupied by the large barracks erected in 1866, on the west side of the Place. HOTEL DES INVALIDES, AND TOMB OF NAPOLEON. The Tom!} of Napoleon is open free, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 12 to 3. The Artillery Museum, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, 12 to i. The Hotel des Invalides is one of the largest public buildings on the south of the Seine. It stands at the south end of a large open place called the Esplanade des Invalides, and faces the Palais de 1'Industrie. The lofty gilded dome, under which repose the bones of Napoleon I., appears to form a part of the hotel, but is really a separate struc- ture, standing behind it. This celebrated institution was founded by Louis XIV. in 1670, for the purpose of providing a happy existence for old soldiers, mutilated or infirm, and without resource, who had shed their blood for their country, or whose hair had grown grey in her service. The edifice was designed by Bruant in 1671, and completed under Mansart in 1675. The outer court facing the entrance is fenced by a moat 10 feet deep and 19 feet broad. At the entrance are two guardhouses, with sentinels on duty ; within the court a battery of guns mostly cnptured by Napoleon I., called the BATTERTE STATUE OF XAVOLEON. (Formerly on the Vcnddme Column, now in the In' valides. GUIDE TO PARIS. Among them arc four cannon and two mortal's) from Sebastopol. A portion of the court is laid out in gardens, which are cultivated by the pensioners, who are styled INVALIDES. These pensioners are entitled to admission after thirty years' service, or on being disabled in the defence of their country. The number at present in the institution is under 500, although there is accommodation for 5,000. The veterans of the First HOTEL DES IXVALIDES. Empire are rapidly dying ou^, and the pansioneia of the present day prefer to live with their families. The inmates have comfortable board and lodging, and a pension in money from 2 f r. to 30 f r. per month. The COUK D'HONNEUR is enclosed by an arcade, with wall paintings by Masson, representing historical scenes dating from Charlemagne. The buildings are three storeys high. On the side farthest from the river (sooth) is the church, on the right side (west) the museum of artillery, and on the left side (east) the officers' quarters and the Jcitchens, on the first floor the library and THE SIGHTS OP PARIS. 107 Council chamber. The rest of the quadrangle is occupied by the dormitories, with cuirassed windows. The large dining halls on the ground floor are decorated with pictures illustrating tho campaign of Louis XIV. in the Nether- lands. They are mostly painted by Martin, pupil of Van der Meulen. In the LIBRARY, on the first floor of the side next the Seine, is an equestrian statue of Marshal Tureune, the cannon ball which killed him at Sassbach, a plan of the Invalides, and a model of the Column Vendome. In the COUNCIL CHAMBER ai-e portraits of marshals of the first Empire, a portrait of Napoleon I. in his coronation robes by Ingres, and of Louis XIV. The MUSEE D'ARTILLERIE, one of the most interesting parts of the institution, contains 4,000 specimens. Catalogues (4 fr.) are unnecessary. The collection includes the ARMOURY, or collection of weapons, the SALLE DES COSTUMES DE GUERRE ^historical collection of military accoutrements, from Charlemagne). ETHNOGRAPHIC GALLERY (wooden and wax figures of barbarous nations in war costumes), SALLE DES ARMES PRIMITIVES (Greek, Roman, Gallic, and Merovingian weapons), SALLE DES ARMES PORTATIVES (weapons of Arabia, Africa, Persia, Albania, Greece, China, Japan, and India). On the ground floor are the COUR DE LA VICTOIRE (museum of naval artillery) and the COUR D'ANGOULEME (captured cannon, German, Austrian, and Turkish). The Church of the Invalides, on the south side of the building, will be found fully described on pp. 78-79. TOMB OF NAPOLEON. The mausoleum of the great Emperor stands in the Place Vauban, This edifice, originally a church, was constructed by Mausart in 1706, and is one of the most impressive and striking among all the fine buildings of Paris. The facade is approached by a court railed off from the Place Vauban, and a flight of ten steps. The upper part of the portal is Corinthian, the lower Ionic, with niches on either side filled by statues of Charlemagne and St. Louis. The mausoleum is square, and externally of no great beauty. The dome, standing on a circular colonnade of forty Corinthian columns, is one of the most elegantly designed in Paris. It is 344 feet high, and is surmounted by a lantern and a cross, with circular railed gallery at the foot of the lantern. The dome is of wood covered with lead sheathing, elaborately decorated and gilt, and 108 GUIDE TO PARIS. s in itself admirably proportioned ; but it is too largo for the building which it covers, and conveys the impression of being top-heavy. The commonplace appearance of the exterior gives the visitor little idea of the surprise which awaits him on entering the mauso- leum. The subdued, awe-inspiring aspect of the interior is like nothing else in Paris. Everything around seems to betoken the final resting-place of one of the greatest men whom the world has ever produced. Lofty, spacious, and majestic, there is an ciir of repose and tranquillity which cannot fail to impress the least sus- ceptible mind. The spacious cupola is upheld by finely carved stone cornices, supported by elegant Corinthian columns. The lower section is rlivided into twelve compartments, containing figures of the twelve Apostles by Jouvenet ; on the upper is a large fresco by Delafosse St. Louis offering his sword to the SaA'iour. In the spandrils are figures of the four Evangelists. There is no stained glass in the ceiling, but the light is softened and subdued at the sides by pale blue glass in harmony with the gloom of the crypt. The interior of the mausoleum around the crypt is divided into three principal chapels. In that facing the entrance is the high altar, a superb bronze gilt baldacchino supported by twisted pillars of black Carrara marble, standing on a marble platform surrounded by a massive marble balustrade. It is lighted by plain gold coloured glass at the sides, which gives a general effect of richness altogether indescribable. The polished marble pillars at the altar are cut from single blocks. Beneath the dome is an open circular crypt, nearly forty yards in circumference, and seven yards deep, formed of polished granite, adorned with ten fine groups in marble by Simart. The subjects represented are the Restoration of Public Order, the Signing of the Concordat, the Reformed Administration, the Council of State, the Code, the University of Paris, the Chamber of Finance, the Development of Commerce and Industry, Public Works, and the Legion of Honour. Between these groups are twelve colossal Victories, which were the lalest public works of the renowned sculptor Pradier. Groups of captured flags are deposited in the crypt. On tho pavement are recorded the principal battles gained by Napoleon ; and a mosaic laurel wreath is inlaid round the monumental urn wherein reposes all that is left of '' Imperial Caesar, dead and turned to clay." This sarcophagas is of red Finland porphyry, and weighs 135,060 Ib, The entrance to the crypt is by doors at the back at the bottom of a flight of marble steps. The doors are of ma c sive bronze, and 10!) flanked by colossal bronze caryatides, designed by Duret ; one of. them bears a globe, the other a sceptre and crown. Right and left of the vault are sarcophagi in Carrara marble j one to the memory of Duroc, the other to Bertrand. Over the entrance is inscribed the clause in Napoleon's will expressing his desire that his ashes might repose on the banks of the Seine, hi the-, midst of the people whom he had so loved. The whole of this superb monument was carried out under the direction and from the designs of Visconti, one of the greatest architects of the nineteenth century. Their cost, exclusive of the fabric itself, is said to have exceeded 350,000. The chapel to the right of the crypt contains a fine marble monu- ment to Vauban, the celebrated engineer, who constructed the fortifications of nearly all the strongholds of provincial France. Within is a smaller chapel, elegantly decorated, containing the marble sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon I. and King of Spain. The chapel to the left contains the monument of Tureime, whoso body was buried here 125 years after death. It was originally buried at St. Denis in 1675, but was dug up by the Convention when the tombs of the kings were rifled in 1793. It then fell into the hands of a gravedigger, who concealed it for the purpose of trans- ferring it to his sou to be exhibited at fairs. Becoming alarmed, ho gave information of his trouvaille to the Convention, who sent it to the Jardiii des Plantes, where it was exhibited for three years in the Anthropological Museum. From thence it passed to a private speculator in exchange for half a dozen skeletons and a boa-skin, and was exhibited in his museum until rescued by the Consulate in 1SOO, and interred at the Invalides with much pomp. The inner chapel contains the sarcophagus of Jerome Bonaparte^ with bronze statue by Guillaume ; also a sarcophagus containing the body of his sou, and another the heart of his wife. HOTEL DES POSTES (GENERAL POST-OFFICE). This building is in the Ruo du Louvre, and replaces a larga uninteresting block, which was pulled down in 1880, having become altogether inadequate to the requirements of the department. HOTEL DE VILLE. Admission with permission from the Secretariat. This superb Renaissance structure, perhaps the finest in the world, occupies a rectangular site 330 feet long by 276 feet wide, in the Place of the same name, on the river side of the Rue de Rivoli, 110 GUIDE TO PARIS. at the upper or east end. It is a tete de lignc, or starting point of several omnibus routes, and is passed by omnibuses and tramways in every direction. The Hotel de Ville was completed, as regards the exterior, during the year 1883, under the superintendence of two architects (Ballu and De Perthes) to accommodate the Prefect of the Seine, with his offices and staff of 500 officials. The architects are not, however, entitled to the credit of having designed this beautiful structure. It is a reproduction of the magnificent edifice completed in 1628 by Pierre de la Yallee, from designs of Cortoua (1553), with the sub- sequent additions of 1841, at which date it was four times the size of the original building. This structure was erected in an open situation, but surrounded by squalid lanes and alleys. It consisted of a quadrangle, with triple court within its precincts. The four facades were elaborately decorated in the Renaissance style, with niches containing (arranged in chronological order) statues of celebrated men, natives of Paris, down to the Revolution of 1789, when Bailly was elected mayor. The principal fa;ade on the west side is a richly decorated Renaissance composition of two storeys, fianked by a large pavilion tlu-ee storeys high at each corner. The columns of the ground elevation are Corinthian ; those on the upper and third storeys tinted, with elegant Corinthian capitals. The principal doors in the centre are of bronze. The facade is pierced by two large archways which lead to the Cour d'Houneur. The latter is surrounded by massive arcades in the Renaissance style. Above the gateways are two elegant pavilions, each of two storeys. Most of the windows are arched and surmounted by pediments. Between the columns of the first storey of the facade, and on all the storeys of the corner pavilions, are niches filled with statues of illustrious natives of Paris. Figures above the clock, in the centre of the facade, represent various towns of France. The east facade is similar in the style of its decoration to the west, but the lines of architecture, being less broken by decoration, are perhaps more symmetrical. The south or river faade and the norlh facade are in the Fame style, but much plainer. The whole of the building, except the principal entrance, is entrenched in a deep stone area, which would be very useful in the event of the palace being at any time attacked by a mob. The interior entirely eclipses royal palaces. Within the chief entrance two stone staircases, with extremely handsome embossed stone roofing in high relief, lead to the SALLE D'ATTENTE of the SALLE DU CONSEIL. The SALLE PES PAS PERDUS, on the ground tic or, is one of THE SIGHTS OF PAKIS. Ill the most elegant of its kiiid. The ceiling, ornamented with stone carving, is supported by twelve fine Corinthian columns, the capitals of white marble, and the pillars of polished grey marble from the Jura. At each end are ornamental tablets inscribed with the names of all the Prevots des Marchands and their successors, the Prefects of the Seine. At the top of the stairs is an elegant peristyle, whence large well- lighted galleries lead right and left to the two wings. The windows in these reproduce in modern stained glass the armorial bearings of the various prefects. The SALLE DU GRAND CONSEIL, used by the Municipal Council for its meetings, is a splendid specimen of modern upholstery. The lower part of the walls is panelled with an elaborately carved wainscot in polished oak, over six feet in depth. The wall above is painted chocolate colour, with the monogram " R. F. " (Republique Frauraise) in gold letters at intervals of about eighteen inches. The ceiling is a superb composition, panelled in massive oak beams, with medallions and bosses between, brilliant with gold and colour. The chamber is carpeted in red, and the seats of the councillors, eighty-eight in number, are cushioned in green leather. The raised bench occupied by the Prefect is at the north end of the chamber ; at each corner is an elaborately carved oak door, and at each end of the chamber is an elegant facade of carved oak with Corinthian fluted columns, the upper part of which serves as a gallery, to be used by the public or by spectators on certain occasions. The ESCALIER D'HONNEUR, leading to the reception rooms on the south side of the palace, and the reception rooms are most lavishly decorated. The Grande Salle de St. Jean, for large meetings, is on the ground floor at the back, and above it the Salle des Fetes and Grand Salon are approached by majestic marble staircases. Each visitor is presented with a small pamphlet describing the rooms and decoration. IMPRIMERIE NATIONALE (NATIONAL PRINTING OFFICE). Open on Thursdays at 2 p.m. Tickets to be obtained of the Director by letter. The Government printing offices are installed in an old palace commenced by Cardinal de Rohan, 1712, and afterwards known as the Hotel de Strasbourg, in the Rue Vieille du Temple, No, 87, 11.2 GUIDE TO PARIS. About 1,000 hands are employed in the offices, where are carried on every branch of the printing industry, including type founding, paper making, and book binding. Official documents of all kinds, the pictures in packs of playing cards, books published at the cost of the Government, and printing in Oriental languages are executed at this establishment. INSTITUT DE FRANCE. A domed building on the south bank of the Seine, on the Q.uai Conii, opposite the Louvre. The buildings were erected during THE INSTITUTE. the latter half of the seventeenth century, on the site of the Tour do Nesle, famous, or infamous, from its connection with Margaret of Burgundy, Queen of Louis X. The Institute, as founded by Cardinal Ma/arin, was a college. During the Revolution it was converted into a prison. In 1795 the Convention handed it over to a number of learned societies for the perfecting of literature, science, and art. There is nothing remarkable about the building itself. It com- prises within its precincts : 1. The FRENCH ACADEMY, a body consisting of forty of the THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 113 most distinguished men of letters in France. It was founded by Richelieu for the preservation of French literature and the com- pilation of a historical French dictionary. Prizes are awarded annually for excellence in various branches of literature. 2. ACADEMY OP BELLES LETTRES, founded by Colbert, 1663, for the study of medals, monuments, and antiquities. Sittings on Fridays from 3 to 5. 3. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, a body of sixty-five titular members with corresponding members abroad. Sittings on Mondays, 3 to 5 p.m. Prizes awarded in general science. 4 for the purpose of publicly exhibiting the bodies of unknown persons who have perished, either by drowning, assassination, or other violent death, within the jurisdiction of the Prefecture of Police. It is open free from morning to night. On the screen which faces the entrance and on the walls are photographs of all the 126 . GUIDE TO PAUIS. corpses that have beeii exposed during the year, aiid a description in writing of all bodies which have not been reclaimed or identified. OBSERVATOIRE. This building, founded in 1672, is situated exactly south of the Palace of the Luxembourg, at the end of the Avenue de FObser- vatoire, which is a continuation of the Luxembourg garden. The building, designed by Perrault, has four facades, and is divided by a meridian into two equal parts. The south facade is the line of latitude of the city of Paris. The copper dome, forty-two feet in diameter, revolves round its vertical axis. Permission to visit the Observatory may be obtained on application to the Directeur, but there is little to be seen which is of any interest except to scientific men. OPERA. This magnificent structure, standing in the Place of the same name, Avas designed by Gamier and commenced in 1861, but was not completed till 1874. It covers an area of 13,500 square yards, and cost over 1,500,000. An idea of its immense proportions may be gained by walking round it. The site on which it stands was obtained by the destruc- tion of between 400 and 500 houses. The laud alone cost nearly 500,000, making the total cost 2,000,000. The Opera was designed, and in greater part constructed, during the palmy days of the Empire, but the Republic did not on that account neglect its completion. The work, suspended in 1870-71, was recommenced, and completed just in time to replace the Opera of the Empire in the Rue Lepeletier, which was burned down by accident in 1873. The new building was constructed regardless of expense, with the evident intention of endowing Paris with the finest theatre in the world. Architecturally it far surpasses any other, although the Scaln at Milan, and San Carlo at Naples, can seat larger audiences. The costly materials of which the building is composed, brought from every part of Europe, the eminence of the architect who designed it, and its splendid situation have combined to produce an edifice worthy of Paris. Exception must, however, be taken to the fatjade as wanting in majesty, its effect being dwarfed by the cupola of the auditorium and the portion devoted to the stage, which rises high above it. The side views of the building are less open to criticism. The principal facade, approached by a broad flight of steps, is in three storeys. OHAXD STAIUCAS1-: OF Till; OPIUIA HOVSE. }; X., Pa is. GUIDE TO PARIS. The basement is pierced by seven arcades which admit to a vast hall, whence there is access to every part of the house. The statues flanking the arcades are the Drama (Falguieres), Song (Dubois and Vatrinelle), Idyllic Poetry (Aizelin), Cantata (Chapel). The group Music is by Gnillaume, Lyric Poetry by Jouffrey, Lyric Drama by Perraud, and Dancing by Carpeaux. Above the statues are medallions of Bach, Pergolesi, Haydn, and Cimarosa. The first storey is decorated with a Corinthian colonnade of FKOM THE ROOF OF THE Ol'ERA HOUSE. coloured marble with gilt capitals, which forms an open gallery. Above rises an attic ornamented with figures and foliage. At the angles of the facade are groups in bron/e gilt Harmony and Poetry by Ginnery, sculptured on the attic balustrade. The pediment behind the cupola is decorated with two colossal groups of statuary : Pegasus (Leqnesue) and Apollo, Avith gold lyre (Millet). The state entrance is through a cylindrical pavilion at the west side. Season ticket holders enter through a corresponding entrance at the east side. The grand vestibule is decorated with statues of Lulli, Rameau, Grliiek, and Handel. PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 12 J The principal staircase is the most remarkable feature of the structure. It is decorated with full arched arcades, cut by the balconies of each tier. The vaulting is decorated with allegorical paintings by Pils. The AVANT FOYER, or first crush room, is decoraled with tiles by Salviati, after the cartoons of Curzon, representing classical subjects. The GRAND FOYER, 180 yards long, is magnificently decorated. The ceiling (by Baudry) is in ten sections, representing the infancy and maturity of art. The plate-glass mirrors, splendid chandeliers, and elaborately designed and gorgeously coloured panelling form an ensemble unrivalled in any theatrical building. The decorations of the auditorium are in red and gold. The ceiling, painted on copper by Lsnepveu, and the central chandelier deserve special attention. The green room is decorated with paintings by Boulauger. Performances are given at the Opera on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and during the winter also on Saturdays. Tickets may be obtained at the box office in the building at the corner abutting on the Rue Auber. PALAIS DE JUSTICE. An immense pile of buildings of medieval appearance, standing on the Quai de 1'Horloge, on the left bank of the Seine, between the Pont Neuf at the west end and the Pont St Michel at the east end. Open daily, except on Sundays and fete days. The Palais de Justice, as at present existing, has been in greater part built since 1871, when the older structure was almost entirely destroyed by the incendiary fires of the Commune. It serves the double purpose of A palace and a prison, and, in addition, encloses within its walls the Sainte Chapelle. The pile is quadrangular, with several large courts in the interior. The wing next the Seine on the north side is the Conciergerie, the prison where Marie Antoinette was confined previous to her execution. The law courts occupy the east and west wings and the centre. The police offices and the magistrates' courts, known as " Police Correctionnelle," occupy the south side of the island on which the palace stands. The principal facade is oa the east side, on the Boulevard du Palais. The building is approached by a fine open court, known as the Cour d'Honueur. which is screened from the boulevard by a massive iron grille with three large gateways, the centre one richly gilded. Within this court on the left is an ai'chway, which leais ta 130 GUIDE TO PARIS. the police courts and the Saiiite Chapelle. The court is flanked on each side by arcades. The entrance to the Palais is approached by a bi-oad flight of stoue steps. The facade, like all modern French buildings, is in the Renaissance style. The pediment is supported by four Doric columns, surmounted by symbolic statues, representing ou one side Power and Plenty, by Berryer ; on the other Justice and Prudence, by Lecomte. At the top of the stairs is a long vestibule or corridor, fitted up with small robing rooms, where the counsel keep their professional caps and gowns. A number of these gentlemen in black will usually be found conferring with clients or with learned friends, and there is a constant movement to and fro. Turning to the right, the end of the corridor leads to the SALLE DES PAS PERDUS, or waiting hall, which is intended for suitors and persons having business in the courts. The Salle is one of the largest waiting rooms in existence, being 226 feet long and 84 feet wide. It runs eastward as far as the boulevard, and has doors opening into the various courts. It was built in lb'22 by Desbrosses. It is divided into two aisles, the stone arches standing ou Doric pillars 24 feet high. On the right side is a monument erected by .Louis XVIII. in 1821 to the memory of Malesherbes, the counsel who defended Louis XVI. (beheaded in 1794), with group in relief by Cortot. The statue of the distinguished advocate is by Bosio. On the sides of the monument are emblems of France and Fidelity. The CONCIERGERIE, which is open to the public on Thursdays with permission (see p. 96), is still used as a prison. It contains almost all that is left of the historic buildings which have been the scene of such thrilling incidents, namely, the Tour de Cesar, in which Cartouche and Damiens were imprisoned; the Tour d'Argent; the cells in which Marie Antoinette and Robespierre were im- prisoned ; and the Tour de THorloge. On the west wall, facing the boulevard, is the clock which gave its name to the quay and to the tower. It is the oldest timepiece in France, and was erected in the lantern of the old tower in tiie middle of the fourteenth century, and was regarded as one of the wonders of the age. Since then it has been twice restored, the last time in 1853, when the designs of Germain Pilon, who reconstructed it in the fifteenth century, were reproduced. The public are admitted to the courts of law during the hearing of the cases. The west facade of the palace, towards the Bois de Boulogne, has been reconstructed with consummate ability, from the designs of Viollet le J)uc. The fa9ade consists of a rich cornice, supported by PART III. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 131 eight fluted columns and two corner pillars. Between the columns are six allegorical figures Prudence and Truth, by Dumont; Punishment and Protection, by Jouffroy ; and Violence and Justice, by Jaley. The large building opposite the Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce, a modern building in the Renaissance style, designed by Bailly. PALAIS DE LA LEGION D'HONNEUR. This not very remarkable building is situated on the Quai d'Orsay, on the south bank of the Seine, opposite the Jardin des Tuileries. The facade next the river has some peculiarities, there being no windows above the ground floor. The centre is occupied by a large circular room 40 feet in diameter. On the south side, in the Rue de Lille, is the principal facade, which is approached through an Ionic archway and a court with Ionic arcades. The vicissitudes which this building underwent were rather remarkable. It was designed by Rousseau in 1786 for Prince Salm Krybm-g, and when the Prince was executed as an arislocrat, six years later, it became a residence of Madame de Stael, whose salons wers frequented by all the most distinguished men of the time. Becoming the propsrty of the Government, it was put up as the prize in a lottery, and won by a barber. The fortunate winner sold it to an adventurer styling himself the Marquis de Beau regard, who lived there in style until he was condemned to the galleys for forgery. In 1802 the State again took possession of the palace, and Napoleon I. assigned it to the Chancellor of the newly created Order of Merit of the Legion d'Honueur. The building was partly destroyed by fire in 1871, and was restored at a cost of nearly 30,000. PALAIS ROYAL. This well-known historic building faces the Louvre. Its prin- cipal facade is in the Rue St. Honore, which passes through the Place du Palais Royal, the most central of the omnibus correspoud- auces in Paris. The Palais Royal proper that is, the State building facing the Place is now occupied by the Conseil d'Etat, or Council of State. This body, previous to 1871, met in the Palais du Conseil d'Etat, whosa ruins are now replaced by the new terminus of the Orleans Railway. The structure was erected in 1629-34 by the great Cardinal Richelieu, for his residence, and was called the Palais Cardinal. It at first occupied only the site of two private houses. Hotels Rambouillet and De Mercosur, but the palace was enlarged, and the 132 GUIDE TO PARIS. garden was afterwards added. The Cardinal built in the right wing a theatre, which still exists, viz. (lie Theatre Franeais, and enriched the interior of the palace with the most sumptuous decorations that money could procure or art devise. At his death Richelieu be- queathed his palace to the King, Louis XIII., at whose decea^. two years later, his widow, Anne of Austria, occupied it, with her two sons. Thenceforth the name of the palace was changed to its present des : gnation. Louis XIV. on his accession to tho throne did not care for the palace in which his youth had been spent ; he accordingly made it over to Henrietta Maria, the widow of Charles I. of England, who inhabited it till 1661. After the marriage of her daughter to Philippe, Duke of Orleans, the king's brother, Louis XIV., gave it to the bridegroom. The Duchess, however, for some reason declined to live in the Court apartments, and occupied a suite of rooms apart. Her son Philippe was the next occupant. During the long minority of Louis XV. he was in his capacity of regent the virtual ruler of France, and the palace was a quasi-royal residence. The regent enriched and beautified it, but the wild scenes of de- bauchery which disgraced it during his residence made the Court of France a byword throiighout Europe, even in an age not over fastidious. The palace, on the death of the regent, remained in the hands of the Orleans family, and was occupied fifty years later by Philippe Egalite, whose perfidy towards Louis XVI. did not save his head. He was as wild as his grandfather, and perhaps more extravagant. Having dissipated his patrimony, he conceived the idea of sur- rounding the garden with houses and letting them for shops. From his tenants he derived a considerable revenue. The gardens and corridors at once became a place of popular resort ; cafes and playhouses were opened in various parts, and were frequented by a large number of turbulent or questionable characters. It was in the Cafe Corazza that Camille Desmoulins organised the plan for destroying the Bastille, and adopted the green ribbon of the Revolution. During the Divert ory the palace was called after its last tenant, tgalite, but when, in 1801, the Tribunate was formed, the title was again changed to Palais du Tribuuat. In 1815 the Orleans family resumed possession of their property and held it till 1830. On the outbreak of the Revolution of 1848 the populace assailed tie palace and wrecked the royal apartments, throwing the furni- ture and valuables out of the windows into the j-treet. No less than twenty-five tons weight of broken china and glass was afterwards sold by axiction. PART III. THE SIGHTS OP PARIS. 133 Tho building was thenceforward styled tlie Palais National, but Napoleon III., on restoring the Empire, reverted to the original title, and made over the palace to his cousin, Jerome Napoleon. The son of the latter siicceeded to it on the death of his father, and inhabited it up to 1871. Profiting by the experience of his ancestors, he caused the valuables to be removed from his residence during THE GARDENS OF THE PALAIS ROYAL. the siege, and they thus fortunately escaped destruction when the Communists set the palace on fire. Since 1871 the Government has again taken possession, but the palace, being used by tbe Conseil d'Etat, is not shown to the public. The arcades and gardens, which remain almost unchanged since the eighteenth century, are the parts most interesting to tourists. They may be entered either at the north end or by the Peristyle de Joinville, under the palace proper, and there is a constant stream of life flowing through the arcades both by day and night. The garden is chiefly used as a playground for the shopboys in the neighbourhood during their dinner hour, and for the children of various schools in the neighbourhood. 134 GUIDE TO PARIS. In the afternoon it is thronged by bonnes, in their quaint and pretty costumes. There are convenient benches for loungers at intervals under the trees, and some hundreds of chairs, which are let at two sous each. A good military band performs in the garden three or four afternoons a week in the summer. A time gun, fired by a burning glass, goes off at noon at the south end of the garden on fine days. The shops in the arcades are mostly occupied by wholesale jewellers, and some of them offer for sale very fine diamonds and precious stones, but the greater number deal in imitation jewellery. Most of the articles are marked in plain figures. The north end of the garden is occupied by the Cafe de la Rotonde, a once celebrated lounge, which is the only establishment allowed to place chairs in the garden. Most of the restaurants are a prixfixe. Those which supply meals a la carte are usually very expensive, and tourists should be cautious how they order a repast in them, or they will meet with unpleasant surprises. For PALAIS DU SENAT see LUXEMBOURG on p. 122. PARC MONCEATJ. This small but well-kept and beautiful public garden is situated on the west side of the Boulevard Malesherbes. It may be reached by tramwa3 T s from the west side of the Madeleine, at the foot of the Boulevard Malesherbes ; also by omnibus, Pantheon and Courcelles, which has a station on the Boulevard St. Germain ; or by tramway from the Arc de Triomphe (fitoile and La Villette). The pleasantest route for pedestrians from the centre of Paris is up the Boulevard Haussmann, turning to the right up the Avenue de Messine, after passing the church of St. Augustin. The Pare Monceau is one of the most charming resorts of Paris, and should on no account bo lost sight of. To see it at its best the tourist should rise at six o'clock on a summer morning. The brilliant verdure, variegated foliage, luxuriant floral decoration, and wonderful freshness of the park can scarcely be realised by any one accustomed to the sober colours of an English landscape. It is impossible for the early student to find a more delightful resort. Seated under a spreading chestnut tree, book in hand, breathing the fresh morning air in the midst of the most perfect tranquillity, only disturbed by the calling of water-fowl, the flapping wings of the wild pigeon wild no longer, or by the importunities of legions of friendly sparrows, and surrounded by a wealth of varied colour that must be seen to be realised, he will certainly not regret the sacrifice of an hour or hvo of sl n ep. PATTF III. THE RIGHTS OF PARIS. 133 Tho park is pleasant at every Iionr of the day, but in the after- noon the inevitable crowd of bonnes and babies somewhat detracts from its quiet beauty. PORTE ST. DENIS. This triumphal arch, which probably suggested to Napoleon I. the idea of the Arc de Triomphe, was designed by Blondel, and erected by the Ville de Paris to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the Rhine. It is situated on the great boulevards at the north end of the Rue St. Denis, and south end of the Rue Faubourg St. Denis, and may be reached by omnibus (Madeleine and Bastille). The Porte St. Denis consists of a single archway, 50 feet high and 26 feet wide. The total height of the structure is 81 feet, its width 82 feet, and its thickness 16 feet. It is built of solid un- adorned stone, except at the sides, where are placed two obelisks covered with military trophies in relief. The figures at the base, executed by the brothers Anguier, represent, on the right, Batavia, with dead lion ; on the left a river god, to represent the Rhine. The bas-relief above the arch represents the passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV. in 1652 ; it is surmounted by the Latin inscription Ludovico Magno. The reliefs on the north side represent the taking of Maestricht. The Communists erected a barricade at this spot in 1871, and a^o established sharpshooters in the structure itself, and a sanguinary conflict took place before the position was carried. The marks of bullets aimed at the loopholes on the staircase are still to be seen. In the Revolutions of 1830 and 1848 there were severe engage- ments on this spot. PORTE ST. MARTIN. The Porte St. Martin, on the Boulevard of the same name, near the Place de la Republique, maybe reached by omnibus (Madeleine and Bastille). The arch was designed by Bellet, 1674, in honour of the Qrand Monarque, Louis XLV. The proportions ara not imposing, its total height being only 57 feet, its breadth the same, and its thick- ness 14 feet. It is built of stone modelled and worked with the chisel, and is pierced by one large centre arch and two smaller side archways. The reliefs on the south side towards the river are by Dujardin and Marty. They represent the capture of Besanconand the Triple Alliance. Those on the north side represent the taking of Lim- bourg and the defeat of the German army; they are by Le Hon^ra and the elder Legros. 136 GUIDE TO PARIS. It was through this arch that the Allied Arnv.es entered the city in 1814, and marched along the great boulevards to the Place de la Concorde. The Porte St. Martin was defended by the Communists against the Government in 1871, but their barricade was stormed, with POUTE ST. MAUTIN. Photo : X., Parif. much loss of life. In the neighbourhood were perpetrated some of the worst outrages of the Commune. REPUBLIQUE (PLACE DE LA). Omnibus Madeline-Bastille, etc. " The Place " was called under the Empire the Place du Chateau d'Eau, and retained its title until 1879, when the desig- nation was changed to that which it bears at present. In the same year the Municipal Council determined to adorn the Place with an PART HI. THE SIGHTS OF PARIS. 137 emblematic statue which should surpass in grandeur and proportion all the trophies erected under previous monarchies. A large sum of inouey was accordingly offered as a prize for the best design, and the principal sculptors of France were invited to send in models in miniature. About twenty of the best designs were selected for final adjudication, and the prize was ultimately awarded to Maurice, whose design has since been carried out. The statue was inaugurated on the 14th July, 1883. It consists of a colossal figure of Liberty in bronze crowned with laurel and bearing a lanrel branch in the right hand. The figure is graceful and majestic, and in size well proportioned to its pedestal. The latter is of white stone and circular in form, and is adorned with the escutcheon of the city of Paris in relief. Seated on the pedestal are two emblematic female figures of large size ; that to the right bears in her hand a torch, the companion figure on the left a tricolor. In front of the monument is an immense lion in bronze in a standing position, and beside it an electoral urn inscribed " Suffrage Universel." The base of the pedestal is decorated with twelve panels cast in bronze in high relief, representing scenes in the various revolutions. Immediately beneath the arms of the city of Paris is the dedication A la gloire de la Republique Francaise, Paris, 1879. Vote du Conseil Municipal, 18"- Mars. SORBONNE. This ancient institution is situated between the Must'e de Cluny and the Pantheon, to the east of the Boulevard St. Michel. The original building, founded under Louis V. in 1253, by Robert de Sorbon, was rebuilt in 1629 by Lernercier. Originally a kind of clergy-house for teachers at the University, and for poor students, the Sorbonne quickly became the chief iustftution of scholastic theology, which promulgated its opinu us in such an ex cailiedra manner that it not infrequently opposed the spiritual authority of the Pope. Its influence upon the Catholic Church has been for many centuries paramount. The teaching of the Sorbonne was hostile to the Reformation, and had much to do with the perse- cution of the Huguenols. In the same way it has always been opposed to the Jesuits, while on the other hand it rejected the Papal Bull launched in 1713 against the Jansenists. The school of the Sorbonne, like all other religious institutions, was obnoxious to the despots of the Revolution, and suffered the fate which has always befallen the priests when the French popula- tion have obtained power. When, however, Napoleon I. founded a University of Paris in 1808, he incorporated the chair of theology in the system of education of France. 138 GUIDE TO PARIS. Theological aud other lectures are delivered here at staled intervals, and are well attended. The lecture room will seat 1,500 persons. The library of 80,000 volumes is open daily, except on Sundays and fete days, from 10 to 3, and from 7 to 10 p.m. TRIOMPHE DE LA REPUBLIQUE. A magnificent group by Dalou in the Place de la Nation, the inauguration of which by President Loubet on the 19th of November, 1899, was made the occasion of a great patriotic demonstration. TROCADERO. The Palace of the Trocadero, a memorial of the great Exhibition of 1878, is a magnificent and unique construction in white stone, occupying the plateau of the Place du Trocadero, a fine park on the north bank of the Seine facing the Champs de Mars. This park was utilised both in 1867 and in 1878 for the purpose of the Exhibi- tion ; but on the latter occasion the Republican Government resolved to erect a monument that should be a permanent record of its great- ness. Accordingly the designs of Davioud and Bourdais were adopted, and carried out without regard to cost. The palace consists of an enormous By/antine building, sur- mounted by a lofty dome, and flanked by two fine towers 230 feet high. On either side are colonnades, forming with the palace half an oval, terminating at each end in a handsome Moorish pavilion. The centre palace consists of a vast and gorgeously decorated festival hall, which will seat 6,000 persons. The organ is the finest in Pai is next to that of Notre Dame. The dome is the largest in the world, as may be seen from a comparison with other buildings. Its diameter is 173 feet, while that of St. Paul's, London, is only 108 feet, and that of St. Peter's at Rome IS 8 feet. The apex of the dome is crowned by a colossal statue, in bronze gilt, by Mercier, representing Fame. Huge hydraulic lifts convey the public to the top of the towers, whence a magnificent view can be obtained, their elevated position raising the visitor far above the level of even the dome of the Pantheon. Free lectures are given on Sunday afternoons in the largo hall, also concerts in the concert room. The proceeds of the latter are generally devoted to some charity. The total cost cf the Trocadero Palace exceeded 500,000. The buildings of the Trocadero Palace are admirably adapted for a fete de nuit. When brilliantly illuminated it is impossible to conceive anything finer or more effective. The Palace contains three important museums, viz. Sculpture Comparee and Musee Garnbodgien; every day (except Monday) 11 to 4 (summer 5); and the Ethnographical, Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays from 12 to 4 (summer 5). 139 HOW TO SEE PARIS. I. THINGS THE VISITOR SHOULD KNOW. ARRIVAL. Registered luggage is all examined in Paris, tlie hand baggage having all been inspected on landing. As there is a wait of at least ten minutes before the Custom House (Douane) doors arc opened, it is as well during this time to engage a cab (voiturc], asking the driver (cocker) for his number (numero). Family omnibuses are also in attendance. It is better to let the people where the visitor alights settle with the cabman. To give him the address in writing would also save probable trouble and annoyance. Oa quitting the station passengers may again be requested to open their bags by the Paris Octroi (see p. 172) officials. Spirits, wine, beer, poultry, meat, etc., etc., all pay municipal duty. As a rule the London train people are rarely searched. The porters expect a pourboire of 50 centimes for a heavy bag or box, and more if there are two or three. CABS. Cabs for hire are stationed, as in London, in all parts of Paris. The greater part of them belong to three large companies, the Geuerale, the Urbaine, and the Camille. Usage has fixed the fares a^ follows, including pourboire (anything above will bring extra remerciments, anything below impoliteness and probably abuse): Single journey, 1 fr. 75 c. in the day. By the hour, 2 f r. 50 c. each hour. To the above must be added 1 fr. if the cab has taken you into the Bois or outside the fortifications. After midnight the regulation fares are higher, but experience proves that it is better to come to terms with the driver (cocker) before starting. There are many "automobiles" on the ranks, but for the moment their prices are exorbitant. CAFES. The cafes of Paris are the outcome of one of the peculiarities in the French character, and being essentially a national institution abound and flourish. With the majority of Frenchmen, dejeuner, or midday lunch, is among the most important events 140 GUIDE TO PARIS. of the day. Unlike the English, who generally tear themselves aAvay from their affairs in order to eat what is necessary to satisfy hungei 1 , the French leave business at a fixed time, to partake in leisurely fashion of a heavy repast, followed by coffee and liqueur, and a repose of an hour for digestion. It is here that the cafes come into play. All the principal establishments are well supplied with newspapers, dominoes, draughts, and other games, and a large number of them contain billiard tables. The French meet after dejenner day after day, and year after year, in their favourite cafe, arriving and leaving with unvarying punctuality. Later in the day it is the custom to take a glass of absinthe, vermouth, or other tonic, as a preparative for dinner, and after dinner coffee is again in request ; so that the cafes are well patronised at all hours between 1 p.m. and 7 p.m., and again from 8 p.m. to midnight. The finest establishments in Paris are to be found on the boule- vards, between the Madeleine and the Rue Montmartre. A small cup of black coffee, with or without brandy (40 c. to 75 c. ), is called a "petit noir." A glass of coffee, either black or with milk, is known as a "mazagran" (40 c. to 50 c.). In the smaller houses brandy is often supplied without extra charge ; but only one portion (marked on the carafon.like the measurements on a chemist's dispensing glass) should be taken. In the summer most of the cafes supply ices (50 c. to 1 f r.), and iced water, called " eau frappee." They also furnish fruit syrups, to be drunk with water. Among the latter, groseille (red currant), cassis (black currant), and grenadine (made from pomegranate) are pleasant drinks with soda-water (eau de seltz). Liqueurs such as Curacoa, Chartreuse, Benedictine, as well as absinthe, vermouth, or Malaga can also be had. Lunch or supper may bo ordered in the larger cafes, such as the Cafe de la Paix, Cafe Americain, Pousset, etc. ; but the charges are generally high. EMBASSIES. Great Britain : Embassy, 39, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore; Consulate, 7, Rue d'Aguesseau (10 3). United States: Embassy, 18, Avenue Kleber; Consulate, 36, Avenue de 1'Opera ao-3). For all other Embassies and French Ministerial Offices, and hours, consult the Paris Directory, BOTTIN, which is found at all cafes and hotels. FOREIGNERS. All foreigners following a trade or piofession in France must register themselves. In Paris this formality must be personally gone through at the Prefecture of Police within fifteen days of arrival. The cost is 2 fr. 60 c. A passport greatly facilitates matters. Heavy penalties are incurred by non-compliance with this law. PART IV. HOW TO SEE PARIS. 141 HOTELS. There are between 8,000 aud 9,000 hotels in Paris, embracing every variety of accommodation, from the palatial splen- dour of the Palace Hotel and the Grand, to the most poverty-stricken lodgings. It is advisable to take only the early breakfast in the hotel, and to lunch and dine outside in a restaurant, in order to see as much of French life as possible. The usual custom in Paris is to have an early breakfast of tea or coffee, with rolls aud batter ; at noon, dejeuner or lunch ; and dinner at 6.30. The highest priced hotels in Paris are those" in the Place Vendome, Hue de la Paix, Avenue de 1'Opera, and the Rue R-ivoli. These establishments are quiet and comforlable, and well suited to rich families. The hotels on the great boulevards and in the Opera quarter are adapted to those who wish to see Paris life. Those in the smaller thoroughfares are generally cheaper and less pre- tentious. The largest Paris hotels are the Grand Hotel, Continental, Hotel du Louvre, Palace Hotel (Champs IClysees), the Terminus (Gare St. Lazare), and the Moderne. Each of them contains an immense uumb?r of rooms, and every possible convenience ; among others, large gilded salons, much used for wedding parties, balls, and concerts. There is consequently a continual movement, and the visitor has plenty to amuse him at all times, if he elects to remain indoors. The cuisine in all of these hotels is excellent, but the charges are high. In the neighbourhood of the Rue St. Honore are a number of good hotels, specially frequented by English visitors. Travellers should always carry their own soap. In French hotels this luxury, like the sheet of paper supplied by the waiter to David Copperfield, is '' dear, on account of the duty." Articles of value should always be deposited with the landlord or sent to a banker. A receipt should be taken. The chai-gc of 1 f r. to 1 f r. 50 c. per day which figures in the bill is for the attendance connected with the bedroom. The waiter and porter expect one or two francs, according to the length of the tnivellei''s stay. Special attention should be paid for in addition. (See Pourboires, p. 143). Travellers should always lock the door of their bedroom, and leave the key wilh the concierge. INTEEPEETERS. Visitors requiring the services of an inter- preter had better apply to one of the well known agencies. The usual charge per day is 10 fr., or G f r. for half a day; but during the .summer interpreters will not always accept an engagement except for the whole day. Never, iinder any circumstances, accept the services offered by so-called guides in the streets or on the 142 GUIDE TO PARIS. boulevards. Hundreds of strangers are yearly victimised by these men, though it is only now and then that a flagrant case conies before the police courts. MONEY.- -The decimal system of France is very simple. The unit of value is one franc, which is divided into 100 parts called centimes. A French penny is ten centimes ; a sou, or halfpenny, five centimes. There are French notes in circulation for 1,000 fr., 500 fr., 100 fr., aud 50 fr.; gold pieces for 20 fr. and 10 fr.; and silver for 50 c., 1 fr., 2 fr., and 5 fr. All English money is nominally worth one-fourth more in francs. Thus a shilling is worth one franc and a quarter (Ifr., 25 c.); five shillings, b fr., 25 c.; ten shillings, 12 fr., 50 c. ; and so on. The decimal system is, indeed, simplicity itself; but Englishmen will find the foreign money very difficult to manage on account of the many obsolete coins about, which are passed on to the unsus- pecting, and on account also of Belgian, Swiss, Greek, and some Italian silver coins being also current. It really requires much experience to know what and what not to accept, and even then the sharpest are sometimes caught and have worthless coins passed on them. NEWSPAPERS. There are two daily papers in the English language printed in Paris the Daily Messenger (late Galignani's Messenger), established nearly half a century, price 10 c., and the New Ycrlc Herald, the American paper, 15 c. Nearly all the London papers can be bought on the boulevards at about 7 p.m. The old-established American Register, published weekly, is a very popular paper with Americans. OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. For convenience these two services are included under one heading. The omnibus aud tram- way system of Paris is admirably arranged and worked, though the vehicles are slow as compared with those of London. All these conveyances are worked by one company. The starting-points of the different Iine3 are usually near the barrier ; the lines cross at various points in the city. The fares are uniform throughout viz. 15 c. outside, or 20 c. inside, for any ride, long < r short. Passengers paying 30 c. have the right to change omnibuses at any bureau where the first omnibus stops, and to travel in the second free of charge. At each bureau rotation numbers are issued which secure you a seat in your proper order. For instance, if yon wish 1o take the Bast lie omnibus, you say "Bastille " to the employee, and he immediately hands you a number. On the arrival of the 'bus you take your seat when your number is called. The conductor collects the fares directly the passengers are seated, Those who wish to change their omn'bus at one of ths PART IV. HOW TO SEE PARIS. 143 " corresponding " stations ask for " correspondence," and the con- ductor hands them a ticket at once. On descending at the " corre- sponding " bureau, the passenger enters the office, and asks for a numero as before, stating the name of the omnibus he wishes to tak. On entering the second conveyance he hands to the con- ductor, with his number, the correspondence given him on the first omnibus. The tickets and correspondances are carefully checked at each station. It is not easy to stop an omnibus or tramcar in the street. The best mode of attracting the driver's attention is to make a loud hissing noise. This applies equally to cabs. In no case is it permitted to mount an omnibus within 100 yards of its arrival at a station. In all other cases pedestrians may jump on and take their places, provided there is room. A board marked complet is exhibited at the back of the vehicle when all the seats are full. POURBOIRES. Under this expressive title are included gratuities of all descriptions. From the great railway companies, who do not scruple to inform the public that their porters depend for their subsistence on the liberality of the passengers, to the char- bonnier who delivers half a hundredweight of coals, fees, or pour- boires, are the rule everywhere. The artist who cuts your hair expects 25 c. beyond his employer's charge ; the waiter who hands you a glass of beer expects 10 c. ; the waiter who serves you at a restaurant, 15 c. to 25 c. ; the messenger who brings a telegram lingers in the hope of a gratuity ; the railway carman who delivers the smallest parcel asks for one. The thing is universal, and the visitor must only resign himself to the inevitable, and add one or two francs per day to his budget for pourboires. In hotels the fees to servants should be given on about the same scale as in England. A simple plan of distributing gratuities is to ask the secretary or book-keeper how much it is customary to give, and leave the amount in his hands. Should any of the servants have performed extra services, a franc or two in addition should be given personally. RESTAURANTS. There is no city in Europe where the art of cookery is carried to such perfection as in Paris, and no city where it is possible to obtain as cheap a meal. It is not an uncommon thing for a party of four or five to sit down in one of the first-class restaurants and run up a bill of from fifteen to twenty pounds ; on the other hand, there are places in the Quartier Latin where the invariable price of each dish is three sous. Between these extremes the visitor has an almost unlimited selection of restaurants, some dear and good, others dar and bad, a few cheap and good, and many cheap and bad. llestaurants are of three clases, At the head is the restaurant 144 GUIDE TO PARIS. <*< la carte. Next to the restaurant a la carte is the bouillon (Duval, etc.), a cheap and popular place of resort conducted on the same principle that is, each article charged separately. The third description is the restaurant a prix fixe that is to say, an establishment where the repast, including wine, is supplied for a fixed sum. The first-class restaurants are situated principally on the groat boulevards or in their immediate neighbourhood. There are also several in and near the Avenue de 1'Opora. In the neighbourhood of the various railway stations there are one or two high-class restaurants. Establishments of the second class abound in all parts of the city, as do bouillons. The restaurants a prix fise aro also very numerous. There are usually houses of this class in the principal passages, and quite a number in the arcades of the Palais Royal. In the better class of restaurants a la carte the dishes served are more thin enough for one person. Two portions will suffiaj for three persons, and when the repast ordered consists of many dishes two portions often suffice for four persons; it is a waste of money to dine alone at one of these establishments. In the bouillons the portions are nmch smaller. The price of each article is usually specified on the card in houses of the latter kind, and bread, serviette, etc., are charged for separately. In the restaurants bread and serviettes are included in the list. In the restaurants a prix fixe the number of dishes allowed is specified on the bill of fare. The dejeuner generally consists of liors d'wuvre (radishes, sardines, or slice of sausage), one portion of fish or meat, one of vegetable, and a dessert of fruit, cheese, or preserves. Choice may be made from any of the dishes on the bill of fare. Anything not on the menu, or beyond the regulation number of portions, is an extra. Half a bottle of vin ordinaire is usually supplied with lunch or dinner. Some of the higher priced restaurants allow a bott'e of vin ordinaire or half a bottle of better wine. A special feature in the restaurants of Paris is the provision made for private dejeuners, dinners, and suppers. Many of the larger establishments devote their first floors to this branch of business. The inscription salons et cabinets means that there are small private rooms on the first floor for parties or ten or twelve persons, and also smaller rooms, strictly private, for two or three persons. The charges in the salons and cabinets are much higher than those on the ground floor. The incautious visitors who trusts himself into these regions will meet with unpleasant surprises. He will generally find on the table, to start with, a dish of prawns or some such luxury. If he touches one, the whole dish will be charged PART IV. HOW TO SEE PARIS. 145 in tLe bill, perhaps four or five f raucs. lu the same way a dish of fruit will be placed before him after his meal. If he eats aii apple or a few grapes, the whole dish will be charged. The most expensive delicacies are always offered to the guest, and the least expensive are always dear. II.- HOW TO DIVIDE UP ONE'S TIME. A good preliminary idea of Paris will have been obtained from the trips indicated on pp, 28 and 34. The leisurely visitor will be able to see all the " tights " just as the spirit moves him. He will find full descriptions of all of them in the "Sights of Paris" (Pait III.). But for those who have to content themselves with a brief stay, and who like some soit of plan to follow so as to make the most of their time, we may give a diary for a week. Except Sunday and Monday, the order of the days need not be observed, and naturally any of the sights can be omitted at will. There are three sights no one should miss viz. the Louvre, the Ste. Chapelle, and Napoleon's Tomb. SUNDAY. By foot (Place de la Concorde, Champs ISlyseep, Av. Mon- taigne, Pont de 1'Alma, banks of the Seine), or 'bus, or tram (Louvre), or boat (Louvre) to the Eiffel Tower (half-price day) ; inspect the Exhibition grounds and gardens, lunch (there are many restaurants in the neighbour- hood) ; then to Napoleon's Tomb, Artillery Museum, back to Trocadero (facing Eiffel Tower) for Ethnographical Museum, Sculpture, etc., and Gardens. MONDAY. Eglise du Sacru Cceur (foot or 'bus to Boulevard Rochechouart, up the Rue de Steinkerque, and mount steps), magnificent view of Paris ; visit church (free), entrance Rue de la Barre, crypt ('25 c.), dome, the scaf- folding (-50 c.), and the giant bell Savoyarde (50 c.). Descend the Rue Steinkerque and the Rue Dimkerque (almost opposite), to the Rue St. Vincent de Paul. Visit church ; go down the Rue Lafayette. Immediately on the left is the Rue Chabrol, where M. Gui'riu and his companions, in Xo. 51, were ridiculously besieged and allowed to defy law and government. Take the Rue Chateaudun, and visit the Church of Notre Dame de Lorette, cue of the richest of the churches of Paris. Lunch on the Boulevards, then boat from Louvre to Sevres (20 c.), visit Porcelain Factory near the bridge. Afterwards on foot to St. Cloud ; visit park ; and (1) cross bridge, and through Bois de Boulogne on foot to La Muette, and tram to Opera ; or (2) electric tram from St. Cloud round the wood to Porte Maillot ; or (3) tram to Louvre. TUESDAY. St. Etieune du Mont, Panthuou, go down Boulevard St. Michel to the Sorbonne and to the Cluny Museum. Lunch in neighbourhood. Then visit the Ste. Chapelle (entrance in small court with sentries, to the left of the Palais de Justice), Palais de Justice (enter from the Ste. Chapelle, ask guardian), Conciergerie, Notre Dame (treasures, 50 c. ; towers and belfry, 40 c.), Morgue, 'bus which passes (Batignolles ; Jardin des Plautes) to Boulevards. 140 GUIDE TO PARIS. WEDNESDAY. Palais Royal, Louvre, paintings, sculpture, antique?, marine, etc. Lunch. St. Germain des Pros, St. Sulpice, Musce du Luxem- bourg, Jardin du Luxembourg, Tli3 Senate; 'bus (Cliehy-Odeou) for Boulevards. THURSDAY. Hotel de Ville, Les Halles, St. Eustache, Banque de France, Bourse. Lunch. La Trim to, Chapelle Expiatoire, St. Augustm, Madeleine, Chambre des Deputes, St. Clotilde, St. Thomas d'Aquin. FJGIDAY. Versailles (train from Gare St. Lazare or tram from Louvre). Visit Museum, Pare, Triauons, Musee des Voitures ; train 6 p,m. back to Paris, or by tram. SATUBDAY. To St. Denis, visit Tombs of the Kings (tram from Madeleine). Lunch. Pere Lachaise (tram St. Augustiu Cours de Vincennes). After visiting cemetery, take same tram to Cours de Vincennes ; visit Bois ; then return by tram (Louvre-Vincennes). INTERESTING EIDES. Two hours cab in the Bois in the afternoon and back to hotel, one to four persons, cost 6 f r. Omnibuses : Hotel de Ville- Porte Maillot, Passy- Bourse. , Trams : Hue Taitbout La Muette, St. Augustin Cours de Viucennes, Etoile (Arc de Triomphe) St. Germain, St. Germain des Pros Clamart ; Porte Maillot, round the wood to St. Cloud. THE TUOCADJ5RO ; A DISTANT VIEW. U7 SUBURBS OF PARIS. THE suburbs of Paris, outside the fortifications, are not equal in beauty to those of London. The valley of the Seine, which encircles fully one-third of the city on the west, north-west, and south-west, is beautifully wooded, and there are on its banks a nuuib?r of small towns aud villages, all of which will offer some attraction to the artist. The scenery, however, is stiff and tame compared with that of the Thames. The circle immediately outside the fortifications is a barren waste, with the exception of the east end, where the Park of Vincennes offers great attractions ; and on the west side, where the Bois de Boulogne is close to the Barriere. Beyond this waste is an immense number of small villages of the ordinary French type, none of which need be described. It will be sufficient here to men- tion some of those most frequented by visitors Asnieres, Boulogne- sur-Seine, Chareutou, Chatou, Clamart, Meudou and devote more space to places having historical interest beside their natural beauties. CHANTILLY (Train G-are dn Nord 1 ). Contains a population of nearly 5,000, and is celebrated in connection with the Coudes. On leaving the station the town and racecourse are to the left ; on the right are the celebrated stables of the Condes, built in the eighteenth century. A little farther on is the Chateau, consisting of three parts, viz. Petit Chateau (sixteenth century), Chateau d'Enghieii (eighteenth century), and Grand Chtlteau (1880), which, with its superb collections and artistic decorations, has been left by the Due d'Aumale, heir to the Condes, to the Institute of France in trust for the nation. No one who has the time should miss this exhibition. Open to the public Sundays and Thursdays from 1 to 5. CoMPiteNE. The Palace and Forest of Cornpiegne and Chateau de Pierrefonds are well worthy of a visit, and can be seen in a single day's excursion. The town of Coinpiegne is situated about fifty-two miles from Paris, in a north-easterly direction, on the main line of the Nord du France Railway as far as Creil, and thence on a branch line. Ordinary trains make the journey in three hours, express trains in half that time. Return tickets, 15 fr. 50 c., 11 fr. 65 c., aud 9 fr. 60 c. It should be borne in mind that on this line of railway that only first- and second class passengers can. travel by the express trains. The route passes St. Denis (p. 154), Chantilly, and Creil liS GUIDE TO PARIS. after which the railway skirts the banks of the Oise, and passes Pont St. Maxence and Verberie. two pretty little towns. Compiegne, built on the banks of the Oise, contains a population of 13,000. It is a town of some importance from its historical associations, having been the favourite country seat of the rnonarchs of the houses of Valois and Bourbon. It was at Coinpiegue that Joan of Arc was taken prisoner by the Burgnndians. The Hotel de Ville is a fine sixteenth century edifice, partly re- built during the present century. It has a small gallery of paintings ami drawings on the ground floor, and a collection of sculptures and antiquities, including weapons, cameos, pottery. glass,and enamels. The Church of St. Jacques is an Early Gothic building, with Renaissance dome and l'-n itier of the twelfth century. The Church of St. Antoine contains a handsome choir of the sixteenth century. There is also an English church, erected in 1869. The Chateau, which dates from the period of Louis XV., has a double colonnade, 150 feet in length, in front of the facade next to the town. The principal facade overlooks the park, and the terrace commands a fine view of the forest. The Palaco, which is shown on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, contains on the ground floor a museum of antiquities from Cambodia. These comprise chiefly sculptures and inscriptions brought from the temples and buildings of the Kymers, a people professing the Buddhist religion and now almost extinct. Statues and carvings of their goddess form a considerable part of the curiosities of the museum. The State Apartments on the first floor are also converted into a museum. The Chapel contains a Holy Family, attributed to Leonardo da- Vinci, and a painting by Paul Veronese. The forest may be seen during the journey by road to Pierref ouds. Carriages may be hired forlOfr. to 12 fr. Omnibuses leave the station at half-past 10 a.m. and half-past 3 p.m., fares 2 fr. and 1 f r. To c. The Chateau de Pierref onds is one of the most remarkable mediaeval strongholds of France. Constructed in 1390 by Louis, Duke of Orleans, brother of Charles VI., it sustained four sieges at different times, but was laid in ruins in 1617. It afterwards became the property of the First Napoleon. It has recently been completely restored by Viollet le Due, whose erudition is on a par with his ability, and who has adhered throughout to the style of the fourteenth century. A descriptive notice of this fine castle, from the pen of the architect, may be obtained on the spot. The castle, after the fashion of medieval fortresses, stands on a lofty plateau commanding the village and surrounding country, ami is approached by two permanent bridges and a drawbridge. The s, in the style of the old Louvre, cover an acre and a half of 150 GU11)E TO PARIS. ground. Tlio walls arc of great thickness, and are flanked by eight massive tourelles 112 feet high, with pointed roof, and loopholedfor defensive purposes. Ihe donjon, or keep, is on the right side of the entrance. It consists of three storeys, of which the upper is a hexagonal chamber, with staircase leading to the summit of the tower. The left side of the Chateau consists of a spacious hall, adoined with statues of mediaeA'al warriors. In the centre of the court is a statue of Louis, Duke of Orleans, founder of the castle. It is by Fremiet, a modern sculptor of eminence. The vault and dungeons arc not shown to the public. Visitors who have come from Compiogne by the direct route through the forest would do well to" return by St. Pierre, Yieux Moulin, and the Mont St. Mare. The latter offers a very line view. FONTAINEBLEAU. The ancient palace of Fontaineblcau, the most important of all ihe historical palaces of the French sovereigns after the Louvre, was built by Frar.cois I. It is situated about forty miles from Paris, near the centre of the forest of Fontainebleau, one of the largest in France. The traveller who leaves the capital without visiting Fon- taineblcau will have missed one of the most agreeable and interesting excursions that can be made in the neighbourhood. The journey by rail occupies about two hours; return fares are 9fr., 6fr. 80 c., and 4fr. 95 c. A good train leaves the Gare de Lyon soon after 9 a.m. After passing through the fortifications the Marne is crossed, and the traveller passes CHARE N TON, MAISONS ALFOKT (view of the forts of Ivry and Charenton), and VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGJES (suspension bridge over the Seine). The line then traverses the dale of the small river Yeres through a pleasant country, dotted with mills and private villas. MONGERON, eleven miles, and BRUNOY, thirteen miles fr6m Paris, are passed, the river Yeres is crossed, and the train enters the plain of LA BRIE. MELUN (twenty-eight miles) is the chief town of the depart- ment of the Seine and Marne. It is an ancient town dating from the Romans (Melodunum), with a population of 11,300, churches of the eleventh and fourteen! h centuries, and handsome modern Hotel de Ville. The town lies about half a mile to the left of the station. The valley of the Seine can now be seen at a distance, and the train shortly enters the forest of Fontainebleau. The town of FONTAINEBLEAU, which is about a mile and a half from the station (tram 30 c.) ; is a quiet, old-fashioned place, with a 1'AUT V.- -SUBCUHS Of PAH1S. 151 population of about 11,700, and with broad clean streets. Its repose does not seem to have been disturbed by the railway. There are several good hotels, but the charges are high. The chief buildings in the town are the Hotel de Ville and church, both modern. At the Palais de Justice is a statue to General Dumesme, killed during the Revolution of 1848. The palace, which, as already stated, was constructed by Francois I. in 1547, stands on the site of a fortress dating from the twelfth century. It was here that Francois I. held his Court, surrounded by the greatest Italian artists of any age. Michael Angelo, Leonardo, Primaticcio, and Guilio Romano were the guests of the splendour-loving monarch, and the decorations of the interior, carried out in a style of unparalleled magnificence, were designed by the two last-named artists. Considerable additions to the palace wore made by Henri IV. ; with these exceptions the palace remains substantially as Francois I. constructed it, the restorations made by Lonis Philippe and Napoleon III. having been carried out with consummate taste, and in the style of the sixteenth century. The private theatre was the work of the late Emperor Napoleon III. It was at Fontainebleau that Queen Christina of Sweden ordered the execution of her Minister Moualdeschi, and Napoleon I. signed his abdication. Here also was imprisoned Pope Pius VII., until he consented to the second marriage of Napoleon. The divorce between the Emperor and Josephine was pronounced in the palace. Here also Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The palace is shown every day, summer 10 to 5, winter 11 to 4, gratis. The palace has five courts : The Cour du Cheval Blanc at the entrance, where Napoleon took leave of the Old Guard ; the Cour de la Fontaine; CourOvale; Cour des Princes ; and Cour Henri I V. The entrance is by a massive horseshoe staircase. The apart- ments are shown in the following order : CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITE, in which Louis XV. was married, and where Napoleon III. was baptised. The ceiling is superbly painted by Freminet, an early French painter. APARTMENTS OP NAPOLEON.!. Consisting of ante-chamber; secretary's room ; bath room, adorned with mirrors from the apart- ments of Marie Antoinette ; library, where the Emperor signed his abdication; study (ceiling by Regnault), and bedroom in the style Louis XVI. SALLE DTJ CONSEIL, or Council Chamber; decorations by Baucher. SALLE DU TEONE, or Throne-room, with remarkable chandelier in rock crystal ; wainscoting of the style Louis XIII. aud Louis XIV. 'Ihe apartments of Marie Antoinette are the next in order. GALERIE DE DIANE. A splendid gallery 88 yards long, built 15:2 GUIDE TO PARIS. by Henri IV. and since restored. The mythological panels are by Blondel and Pujol, executed during the present century. The SALONS DE RECEPTION, facing the Com- Ovale, consist of ante-chamber in Gobelin tapestry, apartment with Flemish tapestry, and room of Frai^ois I., with portrait, and chimueypiece of the sixteenth century. The SALLE Louis XIII. was decorated by Dubois. The SALLES DE ST. Louis are decorated with portrait of Henri IV. and fifteen historical pictures. The SALLE DES GARDES has a handsome chimneypiece, and bust of Henri IV THE GRAND STAIRCASE is decorated with paintings after Primaticcio, restored by Pujol. SALLE DES FETES. Constructed by Francois I. ; afterwards decorated by Henri II., and restored under Louis Philippe. The frescoes are by Primaticcio, restored by Alaux. THE GALERIE FRANCOIS I., looking on the Com- de la Fontaine, is 70 yards long. It is panelled with fourteen large pictures by Rosso Rossi, one illustrating the discovery of Foutainebleau. The bas reliefs, trophies, and medallions are of unusual richness. THE APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES, and Pius VII., were occupied by Catherine de Medicis and Anne of Austria, and afterwards by Napoleon's prisoner, Pius VII. Lastly is shown the GALERIE DBS ASSIETTES, so called from the decorations, which consist of porcelain plates, with designs representing views of royal residences. The modern theatre, constructed by order of Napoleon III., is plain, and in no way remarkable. On leaving the palace through the Cour de la Fontaine the Carp Pond is seen to the right. The fish are of very large size, and consume a great deal of bread, much to the amusement of the public. Also in the main building on the Rez-de-Chaussea entrance in the Bailie Cour is the Chinese Museum. The JARDIN ANGLAIS was planted by Napoleon I. The parterre beyond the pond was planned by Le Notre for Louis XIV. The park, with its labyrinth and TREILLE DU Roi, or royal vino trellis, is also interesting, and should be inspected if time permits. The picturesque spots of the forest can be pointed out by the guides who offer their services at the station. But the most con- venient and the cheapest way of visiting the forest is by carriage excursion with a party. MEUDON. A charming village situated to the south-west of Paris, about five miles from the Mont Parnasse station, on the Versailles line (left bank). It was formerly the residence of Rabelais, who is styled by French writers Iv joyeux curede Mention. 154 GUIDE TO r.\ms. A mediaeval castle, the favourite residence of members of the Bourbon family, and later occupied by the Empress Marie Louise and the Roi de Rome, was destroyed by the Germans during the bombardment of Paris, in January, 1871. MOKTMORENCY. A popular resort of Parisians during the summer, on account of the beauty of its scenery It is particularly famed for its forest of chestnut trees, which covtrj 5,000 acres. It is situated about twelve miles from Paris on the North of France lino. Departures from the Gare du Nord, changing at Enghien. The only feature of interest in the town itself is the Ermitage of Jean Jacques Rousseau, where the philosopher wrote his " Nouvelle Heloise." It is at the end of the Rue Gretry, named after the com- poser Gretry, who purchased the property in 1798. A stone in the garden bears the inscription, fi Id J. J. Rousseau aimait a se rejposer." The hill of Moutmoreney commands a marvellous view. Genne- villiers, where lived and died Madame de Stael ; Colonibes, where Bossnet pronounced his famous oration over the coffin of Henrietta Maria, Queen of England; Argeutenil, residence of Watelct and of Heloise, the lover of Abelard ; The Chateau de Bezons, inhabited by Mirabeau during the Revolution; St. Oueii and St. Denis; Aubervilliers, where Napoleon 1. marie his last stand after Waterloo; Bonrget, the scene of a severe battle in 1870; Enghien les Bains, and Epiuay; St. Leu, residence of Queen Horteuse, and the tomb of her husband and his family ; and a wonderful panorama of Paris, can be seen from this elevated spot. ST. DENIS, famed for its Cathedral, is a dull, dirty old town of dilapidated appearance, about 4i miles from Paris. It can be reached by the banlieuc, or branch line, from the Gare du Nord. Trains every hour after 6.55 a.m. Return trains start seven minutes after each hour. Tramways also run from the Madeleine and the Place du Chatelet. The Cathedra], which can be seen from the station, is about three-quarters of a mile distant. It is open all day long. The tombs are shown daily every half-hour from 10.30, 011 payment of 1 fr. 50 c. to the guardian. This remarkable monument was built in the first half of the twelfth century by the Abbot Suger. There had previously existed on the site th^ Chapel of St. Denis or Dionysius, built A.D. 275 as the resting-place of the first Bishop of Paris, who suffered martyr- dom. This shrine was for 400 years the resort of countless pilgrims, until, in the seventh century, a large basilica was erected on the spot by oi'der of Dagobert I. The basilica was replaced by the present edifice, which, however, contains many restorations, carried out in tho [thirteenth century. In the Revolution of 1792 PAKT V.- SUBURBS OF PARIS. 155 the fabric was badly mutilated, and the tombs of the kings which it contained were rifled, but the judicious restorations effected during the present century by Viollet le Due have rendered the building worthy its ancient leputation. In form it is a basilica. The west facade is a portion of the original fabric. The portals, however, have been materially altered in restoring. The sculptures over the south doorway represent the Months and the Martyrdom of St. Denis ; those in the centre the Last Judgment and the Ten Virgins ; those on the north portal the Signs of the Zodiac. The towers are without spires; a portion of the left tower has been taken down. The interior consists of nave and aisles crossed by one transept. The stained glass windows were presented by Louis Philippe. Those in the nave represent sovereigns anterior to St. Louis ; those in the south transept Napoleon I., Louis XVIII., and Louis Philippe ; those in the choir the martyrdom of St. Denis and the history of the church. The high altar is an imitation of the eighteenth century. Behind it is the altar of Saint Denis, containing reliquaries. The north transept contains a number of fine monuments to early sovereigns of France. Those of Philippe Dagobert, brother of St. Louis, and of Louis, son of the latter, were brought from the Abbey of Royaumont. The tomb of Louis XII. and Anne de Bretague is a fine Renaissance monument. The tomb of Henry II. and Catherine de Mcdicis is of white marble supported by twelve columns, with bronze slatuea at the corners, representing the four cardinal virtues. This monument is one of the finest designs of Germain Pilon. Another monument of the same sovereigns may be seen to the left of the altar. In the choir, on the left side of the high altar, are tombs of the children of St. Louis, with figures of Limoges workmanship. Also a monument to Henri II. and his queen. On the right side of the high altar is the tombstone of St. Fredegonde, formerly in the church of St. Germain des Pres. This is one of the most remarkable monuments in the church, and is by many authorities bjlieved to date back as early as the sixth century. The most interesting part of the fabric is the crypt, which was constructed by Abbot Suger for the burial-place of St. Denis and his two fellow-martyrs. The centre, under the high altar, set apart by Henri II., has served as the burial-place of the Bourbon family. It contains the coffins of Louis XVI. and his queen, Louis XVIlt., Louis VII.. brought from the abbey of Barbeau; and Louise, Queen of Henry III., brought from the fcglise des Capucines, which for- 156 GUIDE TO PAIUS. merly stood on the Place Veudome. In the chapels of the crypt are statues and busts of French sovereigns. Around the high altar in the centre of the nave are monuments dating from St. Louis, among them that of Dagobcrt I. ; also the monument of Bertrand Duguesclin, famed for his valour in the contests with England in Brittany, and that of Louis de Sancerre. The statue of Charles V., a fine work of the fourteenth century, was formerly in the Church of the Celestines. On the left is the monument of Francois I., exhibited in the style of Louis XII., and the joint production of Philibeit Delorme, Germain Pilon, and Jean Goujon. On the same side are the monuments of Louis of Orleans and Valentine de Milan, brought from the Church of the Celestines. The monument of Charles d'Etampes (fourteenth century) is among the finest in the cathedral. The summit of the tower commands an extensive view of Paris and the surrounding country. The large building adjoining the cathedral is the Maison d'tducation de la Legion d'Honneur, a school for the education of daughters of members of the order. Five hundred girls are educated here. The school may be visited on permission being obtained from the Grand Chancellier, Rue de Lille 64. ST. GERMAIN. The town of St. Germain en Laye lies on the crest of an immense plateau, commanding the valley of the Seine. Behind it is the vast forest of St. Germain. Train from St. Lazare station, or steam tram from Arc de Triomphe. ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE, with its population of 17,200, was, from the twelfth century, the favourite residence of the French monarchs. For many years previous there had been a strong fortress and chapel, built by Louis the Pious. The chateau at present existing was built by Francois I., who was married in it. The new chateau, built by Henry II., was occupied by his successors down to the time of Louis XIV., who was born there. This monarch, on coming to the throne, removed his residence to Versailles. St. Germain then became the residence of James II. of England upon his dethronement and exile. The chateau has been recently restored by Millet from the plans of Ducerceau, architect of Francois I. It is occupied principally by an important Gallo- Roman Museum, containing objects of all kinds found in France by antiquarians. The specimens include prehistoric remains, Roman and Gallic antiquities, down to the Carloviugian period. There are three rooms on the ground floor, the same number on the entresol and on the second floor. The museum is open to the public on Sundays, Tuesdays, and PART V. SUBURBS OF PARIS. 157 Thursdays from 11 to 4. On other days. Mondays excepted, on payment of 1 fr. The Church of St. Germain contains a monument to the memory of James II. The terrace and forest are well worth visiting. The former, one and a half miles in length, commands extensive and beautiful views. The forest is kept in excellent order, and affords pleasant walks in all directions. The Ft'ie des Logcs, or annual fair, which is held on the first Sunday in September, brings large numbers of Parisians to St. Germain. ST. CLOUD. There are various ways of reaching St. Cloud. Trains lun from St. Lazare station every half-hour ; in summer the upper storey of the trains is preferable to the lower. Steamboats from the Louvre start every quarter of an hour, and trams from the Louvre half-hourly all through the day. ST. CLOUD, a small town of about 5,000 inhabitants, is situated on the left bank of the Seine, about six miles from Paris as the crow flies. The town is situated on the beautifully wooded side of the range of hills which enclose the valley of the Seine. The palace, which before the war of 1870 was the favourite residence of the Empress of the French, stood in a beautifully wooded park, intersected by numerous broad roads. All trace of it lias now disappeared. Close by are the town of SUEESNES and Mont Valerieu, which is crowned by the strongest of all the detached forts erected for the defence of Paris. It was to this fort that the destruction of St. Cloud was due during the war of 1870. The German troops Inning occupied the town, were shelled out of it by the batteries of Mont Valei'ieu. The chief attraction of St. Cloud is the park. The river bank is lined by numerous cafes and restaurants, and during the summer is much frequented by holiday visitors, especially on Sundays and fete days, when the resources of steamboat and tramway are taxed to the utmost. The fountains and cascades, which play every second and fourth Sunday during the summer, are constructed on the slope of the hill leading to the palace and \ ark. They are not equal to those of Ver- sailles, but the great jet to the left of the cascades is 136 feet high. There are no buildings or monuments of importance at St. Cloud. The entire town at the close of the Avar was little better than a heap of crumbled stone. It has been since rebuilt, and no sign of tho destruction remains. The church, a modern Romanesque edifice in 158 GUIDE TO PARIS. admirable taste, was almost the only building which escaped de;truc- tion when (he town was burned. There is a magnificent view of Paris. from the terrace of St. Cloud. All the principal buildings may be distinguished. The fair of St. Cloud is held on the three last Sundays in Sep- tember. On those occasions additional trains are run from the St. Lazare station. SEVRES. One of the best known of all the suburban towns of Paris, by reason of the Government porcelain factory, which produces the finest modern china in the world. It is close to St. Cloud, bub a little higher up the river. It may be reached by train from St. Lazare (Ville d'Avray, the next station beyond St. Cloud), or by Versailles tramway from the Louvre, or by steamboat from the Louvre. The departures are the same as for Versailles. The town of Sevres is less picturesque than that of St. Cloud, the hillside on which it stands being less wooded. The chateau has been rebuilt since the war of 1870. The Government porcelain manufactory, which has been carried on for above 130 years, is situated on the right of the main street near the bridge. The exhibition rooms are open daily from 12 to 5 in summer, and 12 to 4 in winter. The entrance is on the river side in the centre of the new building. The workshops where the porcelain is made can only be seen on presentation of card of admission. These can be obtained on written application, addressed " A la Direction des Beaux Arts, 3, Rue de ?Valois, Paris." There is also a MUSEE CERAMIQUE, or historical museum of pottery, which is chiefly inter- esting to connoisseurs. VERSAILLES. Palace and Trianons every day except Monday. Situated to the south-west of Paris, about eight miles as the crow flies. The road lies through the Bois de Boulogne, or along the bank of the Seine to the fortifications, and thence in a straight line to the Bridge of Sevres. Versailles may be reached by rail from St. Lazare or Mont Parnasse station. Departures hourly from 7.30 a in. The return trains start at each hour. Trail ways from the Louvre also run to Versailles half -hourly. The railway journey from St. Lazare is the same as that to St. Cloud. After leaving this station the line passes Ville d'Avray and Viroflay. The entire journey is fourteen and a half miles. The route from the left bank of the Seine starts from the Gare, Mont Paruasse, passing the small stations of QUEST CEINTUKE CLAMART (three and three-quarter miles), MEUDON (five miles), BELLEVUE (five and a half miles), on the top of the hills of PART V. SUBURBS OF PARIS. 159 Meudou, SKVRES (six and a quarter miles), CHAVILLE (eight miles), and VIROFLAY (eleven and a quarter miles). The scenery of the road is interesting, and the excursion, if combined with a visit to St. Cloud and Sevres, full of attraction?. The Versailles station of the St. Lazare line is a mile from the palace ; that of Mont Parnasse about half a mile. Omnibuses (30 c.) await the arrival of the trains. The tramway line runs to the palace. The palace and park of Versailles were laid out by command of Louis XIV., and cost 40,000,000. It is said that 36,000 men and 6,000 horses "were employed on the works at one time. The palace was completed in 1682, and Louis XIV. established Lis Court there, leaving St. Gerinain-en-Laye, which had been the residence of his predecessors. Under Louis XV. it was debased by the excesses and licence attending the dominat'on of MesJaiues Pompadour and Du Barry. In 1789 the Third Estate constituted at Versailles the Assemble Nationale. The following year the " Dams de la Halle " broke into the palace and compelled Louis XVI. to return to the Tuileries. No French sovereign has resided at Versailles sinca. The first Napoleon did nothing to repair the damage done during the Revolution. Under the Restoration the south pavilion was erected, but nothing was done to restore the splendours of the old monarchy. Louis Philippe, on becoming king, restored the palace, formed the picture galleries, and threw them open to the public. During the war of 1870 the King of Prussia established his headquarters at Versailles, and it was here that he was crowned Emperor of Germany. The negotiations between M. Jules Favre and Prince Bismarck were carried on in the house No. 1, Boulevard du Roi. On the outbreak of the Commune, after the departure of the German armies, M. Thiers removed the Government from Paris to Versailles ; and after the suppression of the Commune the Assembly continued to hold its sittings in the palace until 1880, when it returned to Paris the Deputies to the Palais Bourbon, or Corps Legislatif, the Senators to the Luxembourg. On the south-west side of the palace is the SALLE DU JEU DE, PAUME, or tennis court, where the members of the Third Estate swore a solemn oath never to dissolve their association until they had obtained for Franco a Constitution. This court has recently been restored, and was reopened with much ceremony by the Radical members of the present Republic. The palace of Versailles is bsst seen from the gardens, to which it presents a fa<;ade of [more than a quarter of a mile in length, Ihe centre of the oldest part being a construction of the time of Louis XIII. The wings were built by Mansart for Louis XIV., and also the chapel. Adjoining the latter is the pavilion of Louis XV., and opposite to it that of Louis XVIII. The SALLE DU 160 GUIDE TO PARIS. SENAT, whe're that body met after 1871, was the theatre of Louis XV., and the left wing was the seat of the Chambre des Deputes. The COUR D'HONNEUR, or entrance court, is ornamented with sixteen life-sized statues, representing great generals, statesmen, and admirals, dating from Suger, Abbot of St. Denis. In the centre is a bronze statue of Louis XIV\ on horseback the horse by Castellier, the king by Petitot erected during the Restora'ion. The Historical Museum, founded by Louis Philippe in 1832, is unrivalled in extent. The entrance is on the left side of the Cour d'Honneur. The pictures are all inscribed with the name of the artist and the subject. Catalogues are therefore unnecessary. The visitor will have no difficulty in finding his way to every part of the palace that is shown to the public. It will suffice, there- fore, to say that the works of art are mostly executed to the glory of France and of her armies, and that the acres of battle scenes which are displayed will probably surfeit the ordinai-y visitor, while the art student will not find in them material for study as in the works iu the Louvre. The gardens, situated at the back of the palace, retain the general plan of arrangement designed by Le Notre for Louis XIII. The grounds may be seen from the terraces. They are adorned with numerous statues and vases, some of them original designs of the seventeenth century, others copies of celebrated antiques. Near the orangery, at the foot of the terrace steps, is a bi'ouze statue by Marochetti of the Duke of Orleans, son of Louis Philippe, which formei'ly adorned the Court of the Louvre. Beyond the PARTERRE D'EAU is the BASSIN DE LATONE, a fine basin designed by the brothers Marsy. The statues siu'rouucling the Bassin are the finest in the gardens. The playing of the fountains, or GRANDES EAUX, is generally announced by placards in the railway stations and in the streets of Paris. It takes place on the first Sunday in each mouth from May to September inclusive. The display begins at about 4.30, and winds up with the display of the Neptune fountain. The palace of the GRAND TRIANON is about half a mile north- west of the palace. It was erected by Mansart for Madame do Maiutenon, the favourite of Louis XIV. It contains several suites of handsome apartments and modern paintings by Miguavd, Lebrun, and Boucher ; also some large malachite vases, given by Alexander I. to Napoleon I., and some five Sevres A'ases. The collection of state carriages is close to the Grand Truuou. There are also ;\ number of sledges and sedan chairs. The PETIT TRIANON, built for Madame Du Barry by Louis X V., i.s tastefully fitted up, though not remarkable in architecture or decoration. It was the favourite residence of Marie Antoinette. 161 USEFUL INFORMATION. AMUSEMENTS. Xo people in the world are so foucl of amusements or distractions, as they term them as the Parisians. Morning, noon, and night, summer and winter, there is always something to be seen, and a large portion of the population seems absorbed in nothing but the pursuit of pleasure. During the summer season open-air concerts are given in all parts of the city. In certain public places merry-go-rounds, Punch and Judy shows, and other children's amusements are eagerly enjoyed by adults. In the evening the attractive shops of the boulevards and numerous passages are a never-ending source of interest. The theatres are crowded nightly by the labouring class, as well as by the well-to-do, while every cafu, with its billiards, cards, and dominoes, attracts its hundreds of habitues. In the more populous and poorer quarters public balls are a prominent feature, and the cafe concerts attract pleasure seekers in thousands. The visitor has con- sequently an embarrax de choix. The various modes of killing time in gay Paris may be best enumerated in alphabetical order. BALLS. Dancing has always been one of the most popular of French pastimes. In private . society bah and soirees dansantes are the principal amusement. Every marriage winds up with a ball, given either at some large hotel or in a private house. In good society cotillons are carried to the verge of extravagance, and dancing generally is a passion both with young men and women. In humbler circles the amusement is no less popular, but its votaries, unable to enjoy their favourite pastime in private, are compelled to resort to places of public entertainment. These abound in all parts of Paris, and have in no degree lost their attraction among a certain class, although the more fashionable resorts best known to Englishmen have disappeared under the Republic. And of all the noted bals, the only one left is BULLIER, formerly known as the CLOSEEIE DBS LILAS. on the Boule- vard St. Michel, on the left side beyond the Luxembourg. Here the students of the Quart ier Latin keep up the cancan with unabated spirit. This estab- lishment is open on Sundays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; the entrance fee is 1 fr. and 2 fr. Masked balls are held at intervals during the Carnival. Other jmblic dancing establishments are the Moulin Rouge, the Jardin de Paris, Elysee Montmartre, Salle Wagram, Moulin de la Galette, etc. It is not advisable for ladies to visit them. BILLIARDS, CARDS, CHESS, DOMINOES, AND DRAUGHTS. Lovers of billiards will find tables in almost every cafe in Paris. The French tables are smaller than the English, and have no pockets. The game, therefore, is to make as many cannons as possible. CAHDS are played in every cafe, whist, piquet, ecarte, and mauille being the favourite games. CHESS is rarely seen ; but anyone wishing to p'ay can always get a 1C2 GUIDE TO PARIS. gcme, with an amateur or professor, at the Cafe de la Eugenes, Place du Theatre Franqais. The game of dominoes is still largely played, but is steadily giving way to cards. DRAUGHTS. This game as played in France is usually the Polish, viz. on a board of 100 squares, and with the peculiar rules of the Polish game. BICYCLING. This recreation is, if anything, more popular in France than in England, notwithstanding that machines, owing to the wretched "pro- tectionist " system, are dear, and that there is an annual tax on bicyclists ; tourists are not called on, however, to pay it. There is a special track all through the Bois de Boulogne for bicyclists. FENCING. The traditions of the fencing school of Paris are still main- tained among the middle and upper classes, and there are few young men who are not fairly expert in the use of the rapier. There are a number of fencing schools in Paris, all of them more or less frequented, and many of the clubs give periodical exhibitions of eserime, as it is called. (For addresses, see Bottiu, Paris Directory, under Escriine. ) FISHING. The Seine abounds with coarse fish even in the centre of Paris, but they are very shy and hard to catch. At Charenton, above the city, and Courbevoie and Suresues, lower down, there are numbers of large carp and bream. The numerous anglers who spend their summer days by the river side, or in punts moored in the stream, do not, however, seem to have much success. The Parisians are enthusiastic anglers, and it is a pity their patience is not better rewarded. The close season is from March 1st to June loth. CONCEETS. Those who are fond of music, military music in particular, have abundant opportunities of gratifying their tastes at all times of the year in Paris. Military bauds play daily from May to September in various op( 11 places in the city. The fixtures of the various bauds will always be found announced in the Paris papers. CONCEETS DU JAEDIN D'ACCLIMATATJON. During winter months, at 3 o'c'.ock, in the Palmarium. High-clas instrumental music. CONCEBTS LAMOUREUX,. Held during the winter months, at 2.30, in the Cirque d'_,te (Champs Elysees). High -class instrumental music. CONCERTS COLONNE. Held during the winter at the Chatelet Theatre en Sundays, at 2 p.m. Seats from 75 c. to 4 fr. CAFE CONCEETS. Entertainments of this class may be found in every part of Paris. They correspond with the music-halls of London. In the summer there are two open-air cafe concerts in the Champs El yseaa the Alcazar and the Ambassadeurs. The entry is nominally free, but the visitor is forced to take a con- summation (refreshment ticket), for which he is charged from 1 fr. to 4 frs., according to the place occupied. The Folies Bergcres (Rue Richer), the Casino de Paris (Rue de Clichy), Olympia (Boulevard des Capucines), Folies Marigny (Champs Elysees), etc,, offer fair variety entertainments during the winter. HORSE-RACING. The regular racing season in Paris commences in May, atd ends with the Grand Prix, which is always run on the next Sunday but ( r.e following the Derby. There is a Spring steeplechase season com- n.encing in April, and an Autumn season commencing in September. The following are the principal racecourses in and around Paris : Auteuil. At the corner of the Bois de Boulogne. Chantilly. About twenty- six miles from Paris on the North of France Railway PART VI." USEFUL INFORMATION. 1G3 Colombo?. A little way out ou the Quest lin~. Enghicn (Seine et Oise). On the Nord line. Foutaiiiebleau (Seine et Marrie). On the Lyons line. Longohanips. The racecourse, or Hippodrome as it is called, is at the bottom of the Bois do Boulogne, where the Grand Prix is run, and the great review of the 14th July takes place. Train to Suresues from Gare St. Lazare. Boat from Louvre to Longchamps. Maisous Laffitte. About eleven miles from Paris, on the road to Rouen (Gare St. Lazare). Neuilly-Levallois. Tram for Asniures, or train from Gare St. Lazare. St. Oueu. Meetings in spring and autumn. The tramway from the Place de Rome is the only regular conveyance ; but numbers of chars-a-banc and omnibuses start from the boulevards every race-day. Viuceunes. Trotting matches on Sundays and week days during the summer. Frequent trains from the Vincerines station at the Bastille. Tramways from the Louvre. GYMNASTICS. There are numerous gymnastic societies in Paris, and a large number of gymnasiums. A reference to Bottin (Paris Directory) in any cafe will show the one nearest to where the visitor is stopping SWIMMING. The floating baths on the Seine are 'thronged by the Parisians during the hot weather, and regularly frequented by members of the English colony as long as they are kept open. Competent professors are always retained at the best of these establishments to give lessons, at 2 fr. to 3 fr. per lesson. The best baths are at the Pont de la Concorde and Pont Neuf ; entrance, with towels and linen, 1 fr. Bathers should on no account leave anything of value in their pockets while in the water, but should confide their valuables to the keeper of the baths. SKATING. The Parisians are very fond of skating, when the ponds will bear. The lakes in the Bois de Boulogne and at Vincennes are well adapted for this exhilarating pastime. Sledges for ladies, and skates for hire, abound on the banks. The guardians are very peremptory in en- forcing the regulations framed for the protection of skaters from the^ conse- quences of their own temerity. The Palais de Glace (Champs Elysees) affords excellent skating on natural ice during the winter. PANORAMAS. The first, and for many years the only, exhibition of this kind was the panorama of the Siege of Paris, a wonderful painting by Philippoteau. The following are now visible: Bastille (Place Mazas), Empire and Revolution (Boulevard Delessert), TENNIS. The French are very fond of tennis, and usually play it well. There is a tennis-ground on one of the terraces in the Tuileries Garden, and also in the garden of the Luxembourg; and there is a club, 71, Exelmans. THEATRES. No nation in the world is more devoted to the drama than the French. The poorest undergo the severest self-denial to put by a few francs for a night at the theatre, while the middle-class would almost as soon go without their dejeuner as without their evening at the play. Paris is well provided with theatres, most of which are crowded nightly. All visitors should make a point of seeing the Opera. In booking seats insist on having them facing the stage (places de face}, otherwise you may get a side seat, which appears all right 011 the plan, but from which the stage is not visible. Everybody, without exception, has the right to visit the foyer during each entr'acte, and it is well worth seeing. The New Opera Comique (Place Boiledieu, just off the boulevards) 164 GUIDE TO PARIS. offers light operas, many of which are well known to and great favourite with Englishmen. Tourists familiar with French will enjoy an evening at the Odeon (the temporary home of the Comedie Francais, the Theatre Franqais having been burnt down in March, 1900), the Sarah Beruhardt, and the Vaudeville Theatres. Those less familiar will find the spectacular pieces at the Chatelet more to their liking. For times and pieces consult any French newspaper. Booked seats (en location) are dearer than those taken at the time of the performance. Beware of the loungers outside all the theatres offering seats. As a rule, there is only one entrance for the playgoers, but it is always ample with its divisional staircases. Some theatres will not admit ladies to the orchestra stalls. The following corresponding English and French terms may prove useful. Loges, Boxes ; Fauteuils de Balcon et de leine Galerie, Dress Circle ; Stalles de '2eme Galerie, First Circle ; Parterre, Pit ; 36me Galerie, Amphitheatre, etc., Galleries. BATHS. Warm baths (bains-cliaudu) abound in Paris. All classes use them regularly, there being scant facilities for washing in the small Paris apart- ments. Most of the large hotels have bathrocms, but their use will bo forcibly impressed on you in your bill. The visitor should always take his own soap, as the usual charge for a cake is 1 fr. , in the better class of bath 2 fr. The floating-baths on the Seine can be recommended as well as the following: Rue Vivienne 15, near the Palais Royal ; Rue St. Anne G3, south of the 166 GUIDE TO PARIg. Rue du 4 Septembre ; Eue de la Chaussi-e d'Autin 4G ; Rue ties Petits Champs 48 ; Rue Montmavtre 163 ; Rue du Faubourg St. Honoru 30 ; Rue Godot de Mauroi 11, oft' the Boulevard des Capuciues. second street from the Madeleine, north side; Rue St. Marc 10, north of the Bourse; Rue do Chateaudun 39 ; Rue St. Lazare 32 ; Rue Volney 5. The Hamman, or Turkish Bath, in the RUR Auber, right side, is a very fine one, though expensive. The Balneum, 10, bis rue Cadet, is also coin- msudable, and not so dear. BEGGARS. Mendicity is strictly forbidden by law, but beggars havo a general licence to solicit alms on the 14th of July and .Ne'.v Year's Day. They then swarm in all parts of the city. BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. ASSISTANCE PUBLIQUE. There are no workhouses in France, or anything at all corresponding with the Poor Law Union. The poor, the destitu'e, aud the afflicted receive succour from the branch of the public service called Assistance Fubliqit*, which in Paris, as elsewhere in France, has the control of every kind of charitable institution The CAISSES D'EPARGXE, or Savings Banks, are managed by the Muni- cipal Council and by the Post Office in a manner corresponding to that of the Savings Banks in England. The CITES OUVEIEEES, of which there are several examples in the poorer quarters of Paris, correspond to the artisans' dwelling-houses of London. They are well managed, but as yet have not found favour with the oucrier class. The CRECHE?, for the reception of poor children under tvyo years of age whose parents are compelled to leave home to gain their living, are private institutions, but receive a grant from the Assistance Publique. They expend upon an average 60 c. to 70 c, upon each child admitted, and receive from the parents only 20 c. per day. THE HOSPICES DI-S ENFANTS TKOUVES, or Foundling -Hospitals, mostly receive their inmates from the Prefecture of Police, but they admit children abandoned by their parents from any quarter, and also orphans. The children are sent away into the couiitry, aul apprenticed at twelve years of age, but the majority of the male children are drafted into the army. The HoPiTAtrx receive not only sick and wounded persons, but in some cases the old and infirm. The principal is the 1/u/cl- JHeit (see j\ 10;j). In many of them special care is given to sick children ; in others children are not admitted. In addition to the French charitable institutions, there are many organised and managed by the English colony of Paris. The BRITISH CHARITABLE FUND was established in 1823, by the British Ambassador, and is under the patronage of the Embassy. Its objects are fivefold : to assist destitute British subjects, and where necessary to pay their passage to England ; to relieve the aged and infirm ; to maintain orphans and destitute children, aud educate them according to their religion ; to supply medicines ; and to provide decent interment for English subjects who may have dif d friendless. Subscriptions are received by the British Consulate, 7, Rue d'Aguesscau, Paris, and by the clergy. The BRITISH SCHOOLS are also under the patronage of the Embassy. The average number of children educated is about fifty. PART VI. USEFUL INFORMATION. 167 The EXGLISH ORPHANAGE, 35, Boulevard Biiieau, a most useful institu tion, was founded by the liberality of the late Mr. Galignai'. The HERTFORD HOSPITAL, at Levallois Perret, outside the fortifications, was founded by the liberality of Sir Richard Wallace, whose uoble services to humanity during the siege of Paris have made an indelible impression on the French public. It was inaugurated in 1879, by Lord Lyons, and has ever since rendered inestimable service to British residents in Paris. It is under the management of a lady superintendent, assisted by two paid physicians, a dispenser, a dentist, and a chaplain in orders of the Church of England. BOOKSTALLS. The chief depots for secondhand books are on the quays south of the Seine, between the Pont St. Michel and the Pont Royal. Winter and summer, wet or dry, the parapets of the quays are loaded with secondhau l books of all descriptions. The cases are mostly divided into compartments, each compartment being filled with books of one price. Many of the hous3s on the quay facing the river are also occupied by dealers in secondhand books. A great deal of rubbish is exposed, but, on the other hand, the collector can at times pick up rare books or early editions very cheap. COMMISSIONAIRES. In Paris, as in London, retired soldiers are employed to go errands, bu 1 ; as their living from this source is precarious, boot-cleaning stations on the boulevards and in other frequented places are assigned them. Beiu^ under the control of the Government, and liable to lose a pension as well as their privileges if convicted of misconduct, they are generally trustworthy. CONCIERGES. The peculiar social system of Paris, which involves living in " flats," or suites of apartments, has called into existence the coiicierye, or deputy land- lord, one of the best hated classes in society. Every house has its concierge, who makes all contracts with the tenants, and is responsible to the landlord for the rents. He is at once agent, collector, spy, and caretaker. It is h : s duty to keep the court and staircase in perfect order, and generally look aft si 1 the interest of landlord and tenant ; also to keep the landlord informed as to any circumstance connected with the tenants he may consider suspicious. Intrusted with such powers, and often illiterate and brutal, he can, if he chooses, make himself very unpleasant to the tenants (locataires) . They on their part cultivate his good graces by tipping him more or less liberally. The custom is to give the concierge 10 to 20 francs (denier Dicu, or God's penny), according to rental, on taking an apartment, and the same sum 011 Xew Year's Day for a Christmas-box. The concierge inhabits a lodge at the entrance of the house uuder his charge, and it is his duty to in- quire the business of every one who enters, and direct him where to find the tenant he comes to visit. At night he admits visitors or residents by means of a cord in his lodge coEn3cted with the latch of the outer door. No pers n is allowed to mount the stairs without communicating with him, and who- ever wishes to leave the house must call, " Cordon, s'il tons p'ait," at his door ; thereupon the outer doer opens, to all appearances spontaneously. If tny of the tenants habitually return alter midnight, the concierge expactsto be paid extra for admitting them. He also frequently contrives by connivance with 16S GUIDE TO PARIS. the servants to levy a commission oil the provisions, etc., consumed by his tenants. Altogether, the business of a concierge is a good one, although lha work is hard, and at times unpleasant. CRLMERIES. There arc two sorts of cremei'ies iu Paris the clean, respectable estab- lishment for the supply of milk, butter, egg?, cheese, and fruit (sometimes called latteries), and the ereuierie where coachmen, workmen, and the poorer class board. This class of restaurant is a lower class of bouillon ; the provisions supplied are of the poorest description, and the cooking is execrable. Many nice cnmcries now exist, where for one franc a light repast of eggs, bread, coffee, tea, or chocolate can be had at all hours. DIVINE SEEVICES IN ENGLISH. It is better to consult the Saturday issues of the New York Herald and the Dally Messenger for the times of the services. CHURCH OF ENGLAND. Embassy Chapel, Rue d'Aguesseau 5, off the north side of the Rue Faubourg St. Hciiore, opposite the British Embassy. VICTORIA JUBILEE CHURCH (St. George's) Rue Auguste Vachi'ry (Avenue d'leua). CBRIST CHURCH, NEUILLY. 49 Boulevard Bineau, about three- quarters of a mile outside the fortifications. Tramways run every quarter of an hour from the Madeleine, fare 25 c. and 40 c. AMERICAN EPISCOPAL CHURCH (Holy Trinity). Avenue de 1'Alma 19, on the south or left side of the Champs Elysces. AMERICAN PROTESTANT CHAPEL Rue de Berri 21, off the upper end of the Avenue des Champs Elysc'es, to the right (north) side. AMERICAN EPISCOPAL CHUECH. 50 Rue Notre Dame des Champs (Latin Quarter). Service, 11 a.m. CHURCH OF SCOTLAND. 17 Rue Bayard, Champs Elysees. FREE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND. Avenue de la Grande Armee, west of the Arc de Triomphe. Services at 10 a. m and 4 p m. ENGLISH ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH (Passiouist Fathers). 50 Avenue Hoche. WESLEY AN CHAPEL. Rue Roquepine 4, to the left of the Boulevard Malesherbes. CONGREGATIONAL services are held at 23 Rue Royale on Sundays at 1 1 aud 7 30 ; and BAPTIST services at 48 Rue de Lille every Sunday at 2 p.m. RUSSIAN CHURCH (Greek). 12 Rue Daru, near the west end of the Boulevard Courcelles. This church may be seen ou Sunday aud Thursday afternoons from 3 to 5. It is a fine By/antine construction, in the form of a Greek cross ; the decorations and pictures in the interior are very striking. Omnibuses, Filles du Calvaire and Ternes, from the Palais Royal or Madeleine. , GAS. The streets of Paris are brilliantly lighted. The high price of gas does not, as might be supposed, lead to economy in its consumption, for there are 50,000 burners in the streets, (las is supplied to the public by one company, Coinpar/nic Purinitiine (VEflnir/ii/c j/ttr le Gaz, whose charge is 30 c. per cubic yard, equal to about 7s. per thousand feet. PART VI. USEFUL INFORMATION. 169 ELECTRIC LIGHTING is making great headway. The Grauds Boule- vards, Place du Carrousel, Pare Monceau. and many other places are now lighted by electricity. LAUNDRIES. A great deal of the linen in Paris is washed in the Seine. Floating establishments, divided into small compartments, each filled by one woman, may be seen from the quays and steamboats. They are in full work from morning to night. These laundries are called lacoirs. Besides them, there are numerous private establishments all over Paris. Each frequenter brings her own soap, pays oc. for her place, and 5c. for every bucket of hot water she requires. The construction of the houses in Paris does not afford facilities either for washing or drying clothes, consequently public laundries are a necessity. LYCEES. Education in Paris is cheap and good. There are several first-class public schools, called lycees, for boys and girls, whose course of instruction is varied and thorough. The charges for instruction vary according to the subjects taught. All religious education is avoided in the lycees. Besides the lycees, there are several first-rate normal schools, such as the College Chaptal, on the Boulevard des Batiguolles, and the ficole Mouge, on the Boulevard Malesherbes. The course of instruction is similar in character to that of the lycees, and equally thorough. Parents who wish to educate their sons in Paris will find it much more advantageous to place them as day scholars in one or other of the above establishments than in a private school. There are many English families who would be willing to take respectable boys as boarders. By this com- bination the advantages of a first-rate education may be gained, free from the occasionally demoralising influences of a French boarding-house. MAISONS DE SANTE". There is no English equivalent to this institution, except the sana- toriums which may be found established on certain spots famed for salubrity of climate, such as Bournemouth or Malvern. The Mainon de Saute is a sort of private hospital, where each patient may have as much accommodation as he is willing to pay for. The proprietor and manager is usually a doctor, and attends to the patients himself. Strangers in Paris who happen to be seized with illness may find an establishment of this character very useful. Jfaisoiis dc Sante are not under the immediate control of Government, but they are only established by the special authorisation of the Prefet of the district in which they are situated. MARKETS. There are numerous special markets in various parts of Paris, which for convenience have been enumerated under one heading. There is a CATTLE MARKET at La Villette which is worth a visit. The HOBSE MARKET (Marche mi.,' ('liri-(in.i-) is in a quarter little frequented by tourists. It stands at the junction of the Boulevards St. Marceau and i)e 1'Hopital, a little to the south of th.2 Jardin des Piautes. The market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 1 to 5 in winter, and 2 to 6 in summer. On each beast offered for sale ii paid an entrance fee of 1 fr. A cumin feature in this 170 GUIDE TO PARIS. market is a short incline for testing the strength of draught horses. They are harnessed to a vehicle specially made with a strong break, and have to drag it up the incline. The test, however, is not a very satisfactory one. The DOG MARKET is held on Sunday afternoons, in a corner of the Horse Market, with entrance from the Boulevard de 1'Hopital. The entrance fee paid by sellers is 3 sous. The dogs brought to this market are wretched mongrels ; it is very rarely that any worth buying are seen. MARCHES DES FLEUR", or Flower Market', arc held in several parts of Paris. The supply IN TUB I'AHIS FKUIT MAKKET. I of _cut flowers in bouquets is very large, and many of the bouquets are iir excellent taste. There is generally a stock made up for exceptional occa- sions, such as marriages. On any anniversary connected with the Boua- Eirtists there is quite an outbreak of violets ; while the souvenirs of the egitimists bring lilies to the front. The flower market at the Madeleine is one of the most patronised. The MA.BCHIJ: AUX OISEAUX (Bird Market) is held on the west side of the Hotel de Dieu on Sundays. The HA.LLE AUX BLES is the Corn Exchange of Paris. It is an immense circular building, situated close to the west side of the Halles Centrales, on the site where once stooJ the Hotel de Soissous. The circumference is pierced by twenty-five archways, with a square window above each, and surmounted by a dome I'-O feet in diameter, The interior is a rotunda, with PAUT VI. -USEFUL INFORMATION. 171 surrounding gallery supported by light columns. The first building, orected in 1662, was destroyed by fire 1802, and the present structura was built nine years later. It has storage room for 30,000 sacks of wheat. There is a remarkable echo from the centre of the hall. The HALLK AUX Vixs, or wiue market, adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, with long frontage on the Seine. The greater part of the wine supply of Paris arrives by water, and there is a large wharf and Custom House on the river bank. The Halle aux Vius has storage for 20,000,000 gallons of wine, and there is an average quantity of 4,000,000 stored here in bond. The annual consumption of Paris is about 10!', 000, 000 gallons, so that the wine market, if full, would not contain a three months' supply. The stock is turned over every fortnight. We have left until the last the most important of all the markets in Paris, the HALI.ES CENTBALES, which lie on the north side of the Rue Bivoli, just to the east of the Louvre. These form the Central Provision Market of Paris, built on the site of the Marche des Innocents (which dates as far back as the tenth century). The structure consists of ten pavilions, built of iron anl zinc, from designs by Baltard, covering an area of tweuty-twq acres. The cost of the site and buildings exceeded 2,000,000, but, considering the enormous revenue derived f rom the dues on provisions brought into Paris, the Corporation could well afford the outlay. The yearly sales of fish at the Halles amount to 1,000,000, the sales of poultiy to half as much again. The sales of butter are as large as those of poultry, while of eggs there are sold about 800,000 worth. Beneath the Halles are 1,200 cellars for the storage of goods; each is twelve feet high, and lighted with gas, and they are connected by an under- ground railway with the Chemin de Fer de la Ceiuture. The Halles Centrales, like Covent Garden, are seen at their best at a very early hour in the morning. The retail shopkeepers, hotel stewards, and wholesale buyers are astir betimes, and the market women of Paris, who transact nearly the whole of the provision business, are always ready for them. After the wholesale dealers come the pctit.es bourgeoises, each one accompanied by a bonne, with clean white cap and basket. With the Parisian housekeeper and the dame de la hulle it is a case of Greek meeting Greek. Frenchwomen are the keenest traders in tho world, and the bargain- ing at the Halles is of the closest description . It is a universal custom with French tradesmen to make an allowance of from one to two sous in the franc to servants, and it is to avoid paying this commission, quite as much as to make their Own sections, that the Parisiennes turn out at eight o'clock in the morning, and go forth to the Halles. The richer or irore indifferent classes are represented by their bonnes. The visitor to the Halles will find exhibited for sale many articles of food not appreciated in England. Frogs and snails may be seen in large quantities. The dii n/' x i/i x ITallcs, who in vigour and volubility are a match for the stoutest Irish fishwife, have on various occasions played a prominent part in political history. In 1791 they took it into their heads to call on Louis XVI. at Versailles, and invite him to Paris ; and in 1871, when the Commune arrested the Cure of St. Eustache, they waited upon their rulers, and announced their intention of having their priest restored to them, that he might celebrate mass on Easter Day. They threatened, if their demand were refused, to take the matter into their own hands. The ladies, as usual, had their way, and the Commune surrendered at discretion. Of late years a number of district markets have been built to supplement 172 GUIDE TO PARIS. the Halles Centrale?. They are conducted in the same mauuer, almost exclusively by women, and do an immense business. OCTROI. The system of indirect taxation, condemned by political economists as degrading and expensive, still finds favour in protectionist France. Not only is the national revenue raised mainly by duties levied on home and foreign products ; the municipal budget of Paris is mainly indebted for its revenue to the customs duties collected at the gates on provisions and merchandise brought into the city for sale. Every conveyance that passes through the barriere is rigidly searched for contraband. Every peasant has to show the contents of his basket. Even the ordinary pedestrian is narrowly scrutinised lest he should have a bottle or two of wine, or brandy, or a pound of butter, meat, cheese, etc., concealed about him. This wretched system is, however, apparently on its last legs, the agitation for its abolition growing daily stronger, and having already found mauy influential supporters. The annual municipal budget averages 360,000,000 fr., of which the octroi provides 275,000,000 fr. POLICE. The police system of Paris is under the direction of the Prt'fet de.Police, in the department of the Ministers de 1'Interieur, or Home Office. His headquarters are at the Palais de Justice, and his authority extends over the department in which Paris is situated (Seine and Oise), as well as in the city itself. His department consists of the Police Muuicipale and Police de Surete. The former body of men, known as sergents de rille and agents, are charged with the preservation of order. They are dressed in dark imiform, wear a short sword, and generally go in couples. They are sufficiently alive to their dignity and importance, and at times act in a very arbitrary fashion, but are, on the whole, conciliatory and courteous if respectfully treated. In Paris it is a common complaint that a policeman is never to be found when wanted, and that he usually only puts in an appear- ance when his services are no longer required ; but such complaints are inevitable in all large towns, where the population is dense and the guardians of the peace are comparatively few in number. The Police de Surete may or may not be in uniform. Their duties correspond with those of the detective service of London. They adopt all sorts of disguises when in pursuit of suspected persons or criminals. Commissionaires, street-sweepers, concierges, and even beggars, are per- sonated by these detectives when occasion requires, and the lower class of the Parisians, being greatly in awe of them, assist their travesties in the majority of cases. Every hotel and inaison menbli-c is compelled to take down the name and address of each visitor, and the date of his entry and departure, and in the case of passing travellers their country and nationality. Each day a copy is made of the register by an agent of the secret police, who are thus kept constantly informed as to the arrivals and departures of strangers. During the Empire this practice was carried out with marvellous precision. It would also appear from the following that the traditions of the police are maintained under the Republic as they were under the Empire. During the Exhibition of 1878 an Irish visitor to Paris was incautious enough to lose himself. Ou leaving the Exhibition he could neither remember the name of the hotel where he lodged nor the name of the street in which it PART VI. USEFUL INFORMATION. 173 was. He applied to a finn of agents, who sent him to the Palais de Justice, and in less than an hour the polire restored him to his lodging. Any visitor who may be unfortunate enough to lose money or articles of value in Paris should at once inquire for the police station of the arron- 'liftKcment (or district) in which he is staying. A prompt and active inquiry will at once be instituted ; and, if fallen into honest hands, he will eventually get his property back at the Prefecture of Police. POSTAL AND TELEGRAPHIC ARRANGEMENTS. POSTAL AREANGEMENTS. LETTERS in France for the interior, including Corsica and Algeria, cost Ice. for 15 grammes. LETTERS from Paris to any part of the Postal Union are conveyed at the rate of 25c. for every 15 grammes. POSTCARDS for France and for any country in the Union, cost lOc. each. NEWSPAPERS are charged at the rate of 5c. for every 50 grammes. SAMPLES are charged at the rate of 5c. for every 50 grammes. In addition to the book post and sample tariff, there is a special rate for business papers of the nature of accounts, newspaper or book MSS., or kindred matter. The charge between France and England is 25c. for any weight not exceeding 250 grammes (half a pound), above that weight 5c. for every 50 grammes. Such parcels must be left open at the ends like book parcels, and inscribed papiers d'affaires. Letters must under no circum- stances be enclosed. REGISTERED LETTERS are in France called Lettrcs chargees. The charge for registration is 2oc. above the stamp required to frank the letter. The department is not responsible for the loss of registered letters, but will grant indemnity for letters containing objects of value at a special tariff. The sender is required in such cases to make a written declaration of the value of his consignment. MONEY ORDERS. Money orders for England are granted at the rate of lOc. for every lOfr. , or any fraction of lOfr. , plus the exchange. POSTE RESTANTE. All letters simply addressed Poste Restante, will be kept at the Central Office, Rue du Louvre. Remember your passport, or you stand little chance of getting your letters. Letters not reclaimed within two month'?, plus the odd days of the month in which they arrive, are returned to the senders. Letters to be kept till called for may be also addressed to any of the district offices, e.g. , Poste Restante, Bureau No. 1 or 2, or 17 (as the cise may be), Paris. COLLECTION OF LETTERS. The principal district post offices are open for the reception of letters for England, or other countries in the Union, up to 5.30 p.m. Letters may be posted in the box at the front of the Gare du Nord up to 8.50 p.m., in the train itself up to 9 p.m., and also at the Gare St. Lazare up to 8.30 p.m., in the special box in the Salle des Pas Perdus. Letters for London posted in any of the district offices before midnight leave by the morning mail at 8 a.m., and are delivered in London the same evening on arrival. TELEGRAPH ARRANGEMENTS. Telegrams to Paris or any part of France cost 5c., or 1 sou, per word; no message is received under 50 c. This tariff applies to Corsica, Monaco, and Algeria. Telegrams to London or any part of the United Kingdom cost 20 c. per word, minimum 1 fr. The address of 174 GtrifcE TO PARIS. the recipient and the name of the sender are counted on all despatches for any pait of France. The name of the sender need not be included in messages for London, but must be written, with address, on a line at the foot of the telegraph forms. The name and address of the recipient are counted in every case. Messages should be written in the undermentioned style : "Smith, 30, Cheapside, London. Am awaiting letter." The above message would cost 1 fr. 40 c. PEISONS. There are now only four prisons,. viz., the Police Prison and Conciergerie, at the Palais de Justice ; Prison du Depot (temporary prison THE I'HISOX Ol' LA SANTE. for accused) at the Prefecture of Police : La Sante, 42, rue de la Sante ; St. Lazare, in the quarter of the Faubourg St. Denis, prison for female offenders. Mazas, St. Pelagip, and the Grande Roquette have been demolished, and are replaced by the new prisons of Fresnes les Rungis. There is also one militaiy prison, in the Rue Cherche Midi. Permission to visit some of these establishments can be obtained of the Prefect of the Seine. RAG-GATHEREBS. There is probably no city in the world which con- tains EO many queer industries outside tue lines of regular trade and manu- facture as Paris. In all large towns the waste and superfluity of the rich are utilised for the benefit of the poor. In Paris the sanitary system lends itself to the cultivation of the peculiar national virtue thrift, which is ingra ; ned in every Frenchman, and which turns to account everything PART VI.-- USEFUL INFORMATION. 175 thro.vn a'.vay, no matter how unpromising it may appear. The private middle-class residents of Paiis inhabit not houses, but flats, or appttrtemcnts, consisting of dining-room and salon, one, two, or more bedrooms, and kitchen, etc. It is evident that in such establishments no accumulation of refuse, or ordures, as the French term it, can be allowed. Every household has consequsutly an ordure box, which receives ashes, waste food, potato parings, and refuse of all sorts. These boxes are emptied early every morning in one large box or bin placed by the concierge before the street door, and the whole of the rubbish is carted away daily before 9 a.m. Thousands of scavengers are thus employed, the police regulations requiring the entire city to be emptied of its rubbish before nine o'clock in the morning. Such a system naturally gives rise to an important industry that of the cAifonnier, or rag -gatherer. These men belong to a corporation having fixed rules. Each member has an enormous basket, which he carries^ou his shoulders, and a stick with a sharp claw at the end. His district is assigned him, and he goes his round daily, diligently searching from door to door for anything that can by any possibility be made use of. Small pieces of waste paper and rags are transferred to the basket by a dexterous twirl of his weapon, any uuconsidered trifles thrown out by misadventure are pounced upon, and eventually the rubbish boxes of Paris contain very little that can be turned to account. The chift'unnlers do not sort the contents of their baskets. They deliver them to their employers, the tnetirs, who live outside the forti- fications. These divide and classify the contents, and dispose of them to various merchants. SAPEUBS POMPIERS, or members of the Paris Fire Brigade, may be dis- tinguished by their tall brass helmets. They form a pait of the regular army, and consist of three regiments, subject to military drill. One of these is controlled by the Prefect of Police, and occupies itself with the extinction of tires ; the other divisions are under the Minister of the Interior and Minister of War. Tho arrangements for extinguishing fires do not at all compare with those of the Londau Fira Brigade. The men, too, serving in the Army for three years only, are naturally unable to attain tli3 efficiency of the veterans in the English service. THERMOMETER. The Fahrenheit thcrulomster is unknown in France. Tho usual measure of temperature is the Centigrade, whose unit is the freezing point, and whose boiling point is 103. The thermometer used in Germany is that of Reaumur. The following comparative table will show the difference between the various systems : Fahrenheit. Re annul 1 . Centigrade. Zero . . . 16 20 5 . . 12 . . lo H . . 8 . . 10" 2:5" . 4 3> Freezing 32 0" (P Temperate. . o5 . . 10 . . 13 C ' Summer 76 . . IS" 24 Blood . . 1 J8 29 37 Fever . . 112 . . 36 V . . 45 Boiling . . 212" . 8J rk* 176 GUIDE TO PARIS. TOBACCO. The manufacture and sale of tobacco is a Government monopoly, which brings in a revenue of about 8,000,000 yearly. All kinds of tobacco and cigars sold in France, with special exceptions hereafter men- tioned, have a strong family likeness. The tobacco mostly consumed by the French is called eaporat, and is sold in brown papers at oOc. or Ifr. A finer cut tobacco, of the same description, is sold in blue papers, at 80c. ani Ifr. 60c. A coarse kind of Turkish tobacco, called Levant, is sold in yellow packets at 80c. The different sorts of cigarettes in the shops are made from one or other of these qualities, as are also the cigars, little and big, from the petit Bordeaux at 1 sou to the cigar of 50 c. There are other descriptions of cigars, professedly of Havanuah tobacco, known as Londre.t and Trnbitfos, but they are not to be recommended. There are establishments in Paris where tobacco of better quality may be bought. At the Grand Hotel, Place de la Bourse, Place du Theatre Frau^ais, etc., are depots of foreign tobacco and cigars, permitted by special authorisation, where the best English and American brands of tobacco, and Havauiiah cigars can be procured. Tobacco shops have a red keg, like a marine buoy, over the door, and after dark exhibit a red light. Many of them are post offices, and in the majority stamps are sold. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. The French system of weights is decimal, like 'the currency. The unit of weight is one gramme. One thousand grammes make a kilogramme (equal in weight to 21b. 3oz.). A French pound is a detnikilo., a quarter of a kil^. is a demilivre, an eighth of a kilo, a yuartlivre ; minor divisions of the kilogramme are counted in grammes. The French metre, or measurement of length, is about 39 inches English. It is divided into 100 centimetres. Instead of saying a quarter of a yard, or three-quarters of a yard, the French say ringt-einq centimetres, or xize centimetres. One kilometre (1,000 metres) is about five- eights of an English mile. Consequently, for rough calculation, five kilo- metres equal 3 miles. The unit of dry measure is the litre, which is one and three-quarter English pints. The commoner sorts of wine are sold by the litre. The litre is divided into 100 centilitres. WINE SHOPS. The wine shops of Paris occupy pretty much the same place as the public houses in London. They are frequented exclusively by the lower classes, and are generally dirty and noisy. There is no restriction on the sale of wines or spirits in Paris ; everybody trading must pay a licence, and can then sell, with certain exceptions, whatever they like, consequently the number of marchands de rin is very large, and the majority of them seem to make money. In spite, however, of the absolute enfranchisement of the liquor traffic, there is much less drunkenness in Paris than in any large town in England. An investigation as to the causes of this anomaly should be interesting to the advocates of compulsory closing. English tourists will not as a rule, relish the refreshments sold in the wine shops. PfilNTED BY CA83KLL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAQf, LONDON, E.C. VISITORS TO LONDON. 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