a 'b-^' r\y ^.V^^ BIBLIOGRAPHICAL atnttquartan AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY. BY THE REV. THO. FROGNALL DIBDIN, F.R.S. S.A. VOLUME I. DEI OMNIA PLENA. LONDON: PKI>'TED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY W. BULMER AND W. XICOL, AND SOLD BY PAYNE AND FOSS, LONGMAN5 HURST AND CO. J. AND A. ARCH, R, H. EVANS, R. TRIPHOOK, AND JOHN MAJOR. 1821. SOI.O AT PARIS, UY MESSRS. TRKUTTKl, AND WURTZ, N'° 17, RtFF, DE BOURBON. TO THE "Z. lOOl PRESIDENT AND MEMBERS OF THE Eciy6ur0i)e Club, THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. tU<^0-f A CONTENTS VOL. I. CONTENTS. VOLUME I. Letter L Passage to Dieppe, - - - - /?. 1 Letter IL Dieppe. Fisheries. Streets. Churches of St. Jacques and St. Remi. Divine PForship, Military Mass, 9 Letter IIL Village and Castle of Arques. Sabbath Amusements. Manners and Customs. Boulevards, - - 26 Letter IV. Rouen. Approach. Boulevards. Population. Street- Scenery, - - - ' *^" "^ ' Letter V. Ecclesiastical Architecture. The Cathedral. Monu- ments. Religious Ceremo7iies. The Abbey of St. Ouen. The Churches of St. Maclou, St. Fincent, St. Vivian, St. Gervais, and St. Paul, - - 47 Letter VL Halles de Commerce. Place de la Pucelle d'Orleans. (Jeanne d'Arc). Basso-Relievo of the Champ de Drap d'Or. Palace and Courts of Justice, 89 XX CONTENTS. Letter VII. Rouen. The Quays. Bridge of Boats. Rue du Bac. Rue de Robec. Eaux de Rohec et d^Jubette. Mont Ste. Catherine. Hospices— Generate et d' Humanity, 108 Letter VIII. Early Typography at Rouen. Modern printed Chap Books. Booksellers. Book Collectors, - 123 Letter IX. The Public Library. Account of some of the more curious and rare MSS. and Printed Books, 161 Letter X. Departure from Rouen. St. Georges de Bocherville. Duclair. Marivaux. The Abbey of Jumieges. Ar- rival at Caudebec, _ _ _ 185 Letter XL Caudebec. Lillebonne. Bolbec. Tankarville. Mont- morenci Castle. Havre de Grace, - 208 Letter XII. Havre de Grace. Honfleur. Journey to Caen, 242 Letter XIII. Caen. Soil. Society. Education. A duel. Old houses. The Abbey of St. Stephen. Church of St. Pierre de Darnetal. Abbaye de la Sainte Trinite. Other Public Edifices, - - 261 CONTENTS. XXI Letter XIV. Caen. Literary Society. Abhd de la Rue. Messrs, Pierre Aime Lair and Lamouroux. Medal of Mal- herhe. Booksellers. The Public Library. Memoir of the late M. Moysant, public Librarian. Manu- scripts and printed Books. Protestant Place of fVorship. Courts of Justice, - - 308 Letter XV. Bayeux. Cathedral. Ordination of Priests and Dea- cons. Crypt of the Cathedral. A Mysterious Inter- view, - - - - 345 Letter XVL Bayeux. Visit near St. Loup. M. Pluquet, Apo* thecary and Book Vendor. Visit to the Bishop. The Chapter Library . Description of the Bayeux Tapes- try, with Facsimiles. Trade and Manufactures, 359 Letter XVIL Bayeux to Coutances. St. Lo. Adventure at St. Gilles. CouTANCES. The Cathedral. Environs. Aqueduct. Market-day. Public Library. Establishment for the Clergy, - - - - 392 Letter XVIIL Journey to Granville. Granville. Ville Dieu. St. Sever. Town and Castle of Vire, - 415 Letter XIX. Vire. Bibliography. Monsieur Adam. Monsieur de la Renaudiere. Olivier Basselin. M. SSguin. The Public Library, _ _ _ 428 XXli CONTENTS. VOLUME II. Letter XX. Departure from Fire. Conde. Pont Ouilly. Arrival «^Falaise. Hotel of the Grand Turc. The Castle of Falaise. Bihliomaniacal Interview, - p.\ Letter XXI. 3Ions. Mouton. Church of Ste. Trinite. Comte de la Fresnaye. Guihray Church. Supposed head of William the Conqueror. M. Langevin, Historian of Falaise. Printing Offices, - - 21 Letter XXIL A Sabbath at Falaise. Departure. Journey to Paris. Dreux. Houdan. Fersailles. Entrance into Paris, 58 Letter XXIII. Paris. The Boulevards. Public Buildings. Street- Scenery. Churches, 8^c. Musee des Monumens Francois. Fountains, - - _ 76 Letter XXIV. General Description of the Bibliotheque du Roi. The Librarians, - - - - 122 Letter XXV. Account of Illuminated MSS. in the Royal Library, 155 Letter XXVI. The same subject continued, - - 204 CONTENTS. XXm Letter XXVII. Paris. Account of some of the early printed and rare Boohs, in the Royal Library, - - 246 Letter XXVIII. Conclusion of the Account of the Royal Library. The Library of the Arsenal, - - 300 Letter XXIX. Library of Ste. Genevieve. The Abbe Mercier St. Leger. Library of the Mazarine College, or Insti- tute. Private Library of the King, Mons. Barbier, Librarian, - - - 342 Letter XXX. Some Account of the late Abb^ Rive. Booksellers. Printers. Book Binders, - - 381 Letter XXXI. Men of Letters. Dom Brial. The Abbe B^tencourt. Messrs. Gail, Millin, and Langles. A Roxburghe Banquet, _ _ _ _ 423 Letter XXXII. The Collections of Mons. Denon, M, Quintin Crdufurd, and the Marquis de Sommariva, - 453 Letter XXXIII. Notice of M. fVillemins Monumens Francais inedits. Miscellaneous Antiquities. Present State of the Fine Arts. General Observations on the National Cha- racter, - - _ . 491 Letter] XXXIV. Journey from Paris to Strasbourg. Nancy, 521 xxiv CONTENTS. VOLUME III. Letter XXXV. Strasbourg. Establishment of the Protestant Religion. The Cathedral. Other Ecclesiastical Buildings. The Public Library y . - - p. 1 Letter XXXVL Society. Environs of Strasbourg. Domestic Archi- tecture. Manners and Customs. Free Masorwy. Literature. Language, - - 74 Letter XXXVIL Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweig- hceuser. Stuttgart. The Faustus of Goethe, 101 Letter XXXVIIL Stuttgart. The Public Library. The Royal Library, 131 Letter XXXIX. The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation. Dannecher the Sculptor. Environs of Stuttgart, 166 Letter XL. Departure from Stuttgart. Ulm. Augsbourg. The Picture Gallery at Augsbourg, - - 180 Letter XLI. Augsbourg. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture. Population. Trade. The Public Library, 218 CONTENTS. XXV Letter XLII. Munich. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery. The Public Library, - - 238 Letter XLIIL Further Book- Acquisitions. Society. The Arts. Lithography, _ _ _ _ 299 Letter XLIV. Freysing. Landshut. Altoting. Salzburg. The Mo- nastery of St. Peter, _ _ _ 322 Letter XLV. Salzburg to Chremsminster . The Lake Gmunden. The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 360 Letter XLVI. The Monasteries of St. Florian, Molk, and Gottwic, 385 Letter XLVIL Vienna. The Imperial Library. Account of Illumi- nated MSS. and early printed Books ^ - 446 Letter XLVIIL* Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Con- vents. Palaces. Theatres. The Prater. The Em- perors Private Library. Collection of Duke Al- bert. The Ramparts. Suburbs. Monastery of Closterneuburg. Capuchin Monastery in the Sub- urbs. Departure from Vienna, - - 535 SUPPLEMENT. Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim - - \ — Ixii * This is numbered, erroneously, XL IX. PLATES WITHOUT TEXT. VOL. L To face page Crucifix at Dieppe ■ - " " Fille de Chambre, Dieppe - - " South transept of Rouen Cathedral Rue du Bac, Rouen - " " ' View of Rouen, on the road to Havre Caudebec, from the Heights - - " Montmorenci Castle, Tanearville Fille de Chanabre, Caen - - - A^iew of the Abbey of St. Stephen, Ditto Church of St. Pierre de Dametal, Ditto - - - 297 Portrait of Harold, from the Bayeux Tapestry - 378 Aqueduct and Cathedral of Coutances - - " Market-Place and Fountain, Vire 32 50 112 188 208 234 268 282 409 421 VOL. II. 10 77 140 Falaise Castle, Normandy - • " Boulevards Italiens, Paris John King of France from a coeval painting Figure from an ancient Ivory Diptych of theVIth Century (No. 1.) 146 Figure of Christ, on ancient Brass Bookbinding - (No. ..) 14b Soldiers sleeping near the Sepulchre of, from the same (No. 3.) 1 46 Charles the Bald, from a Latin Bible of the IXth Century 62 TheEmperorLotharius,from aMS.ofthe Gospels of thesame period 1.64 Louisa of Savoy, Mother of Francis L from a coeval BIS. -^ 18, Ann of Britanny, from a similar MS. -. " ^ Louis the Twelfth, from a similar MS. - " - John, Duke of Britanny, from a similar MS. - - Figure of Christ, (folded) from the Prayer Book of Charlemagne 373 Portrait of A. A. Barbier LIST OF PLATES. Portrait of Mons. Chardin, Bookseller Portrait of Dom Brial Pisani, the Medallist _ _ - The Knife and Case of Diane de Poictiers Faience Plate, from B. Palessi Statues in the grand Porch of the Cathedral at Chartres Wood Cut of St. Bernardinus _ - - Portrait of the late A. B. Millin Old Gate, Nancy New Gate, Nancy To face page - 400 - 428 - 458 - 493 - 494 - 494 - 515 524 (No. 1) 538 (No. 2) 538 VOL. III. Front View of Strasbourg Cathedral - - 12 Suburbs of Strasbourg _ - _ _ §3 Portrait of J. Schweighseuser, Sen. - - 110 Crucifix at Stuttgart - - - - 118 Hotel de Ville and Market-Place at Stuttgart - - 136 Representation of the Trinity, from an illuminated MS. of the Xllth Century, in the King's private library at Stuttgart 159 Ulra Cathedral - - - - 191 Folded Cut of four Female Figures, from an ancient wooden block at Augsbourg . - _ _ 234-5 Gaspard Ritter, a Bookbinder of the sixteenth century - - 274 Wood Cut of St. Christopher, at Munich - . -277 Fac-simile of a Dead Christ, copper- plate of, of the date of 1462 278 Fac-siraile of a copper-plate Engraving of a Salvator Mundi, with the Initials E. S. as the Engraver - - ibid. Wood Cut from an old Dance of Death - - 279 Wood Cut of the Resurrection - - - 284 Wood Cut, — from the Life of St. Meinart - - 285 Another — from ditto . _ „ md^ Pillars in the Crypt at Freysing _ _ _ 326 Citadel, Salzburg . . - 347 Monastery at Miilk, in Austria - _ - 408 Berthold Dietmayr, Restorer of the Monastery at Ditto - 415 Halt of Pilgrims in the road to Gottwic Monastery - - 422 Portrait of . I. Adam de Bartsch _ _ _ 443 Interior of the Imperial Library at Vienna - - 454 LIST OF PLATES. To face page Fac-simile, from the purple MS. of the Pentateuch, Sec. IV., in the same library - - - - 459 St, Jerom^ from an Ivory Diptych in Ditto - - 460 The Emperor Wenceslaus and his Queen, from a coeval MS. Bible 462 Fac- simile from the same _ _ _ 453 Saint Catherine - - - - 469 Saint Agnes - - - - ibid. Saint Margaret _ _ _ jfcj^i. Leopold de Sempach - - - _ 475 Song, from an old MS. of Sir Tristan - - 476 Fac- simile from the Breviaire d' Amour MS. of the Xlllth Century 479 Fac-simile of the Autograph of Tasso's Gerusalemme Conquistata 482 The Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, Vienna - - 548 Master and Apprentice, Architects of the same - - 554 SUPPLEMENT. Specimens of the Interior of the Monastery of St. James, Ra- tisbon _ _ _ _ xiii Portrait of Dr. Charles Arbuthnot, the late President of the same xiv Portraits of De Murr and Panzer - - - xviii Interior of the Church of St. Mary, Nuremberg - xxi Interior of the Church of St, James, Ditto - - xxii Albert Durer's Street and House - - xxviii Fac-similes of the Paintings and Engravings of I, A. Klein, of Nuremberg _ _ - - xxxviii Fille de Chambre, Nuremberg _ - _ xliv Heidelberg Palace, or Castle - _ - xlviii Unknown Portrait, from the Collection of M. Artaria, at Manheim - , - - liv PLATES WITH TEXT. VOL. I. Beach at Brighton - - - - - 1 Fish Market at Dieppe - - - - 17 Ecce Homo, and attendant Group, at Dieppe - - - 20 Market Women at Dieppe - - - - 25 Castle and Village of Arques - - - - 29 Boulevards, Rouen - - - - 44 Monumental Figure of Charity, in the Cathedral of Rouen - 57 Ditto, of the Seneschal Breze, in ditto - - - 61 Confession in the Abbey of St. Ouen - - - 73 Basso-Relievo at Rouen - - - . loi Lemonadier and Halle de Commerce at ditto - - 109 Castellated Remains - - - - 154 Rocks, and view of the Seine, Tancarville - _ - 234 Packet Boat, from Havre to Honfleur - - 252 Group of Women, Caen - . . . 268 Old Houses at ditto - - - - 277 House of Malherbe, ditto - - - 278 Confession, in the Abbey-Church, at Caen - - 283 Medal of Malherbe - - - - - 312 Tapestry-roll, Bayeux ----- 377 Charlatan, at St. Lo - - - " 394 Remains of Vire Castle . . - - - 435 VOL. II. Ancient appearance of Falaise Castle - - - 1 1 Capital of an Ancient Pillar in the Interior of - - 12 Christ bearing his Cross at Guibray - - - 28 Supposed Head of William the Conqueror, Falaise - 34 Portrait of M. Langevin, the Historian of Falaise - - 44 Remains of the Castle at Houdan - - - 70 Ancient Games of the Circus, Ivory Diptych - - 147 Adoration of the Magi, from the Breviary of John Duke of Bedford 178 Chess Play, from an illuminated MS. - - - 210 Portrait of the Abb^ Mercier St. Leger - - 361 LIST OF PLATES. Portrait of Goujet, the French Bibliographer - - 379 Portrait of the late Abbd Rive, ditto - - - 384 Portrait of the Baron Denon - - - 459 Book-binding pattern - - • - 495 Bustof Francis I. - - - - 496 Diane de Poictiers - - - - 497 Blanchisseuses, Rue St, Jacques ... 499 VOL. III. Old Convent, at Strasbourg - - - _ 4 Figure of Clovis, on the exterior of the Cathedral at ditto - 16 Group at Prayers — Interior of ditto - - S'Z Old Houses— in the Town of ditto - - - 82 Portrait of Melancthon, in the Picture GaUery at Augsbourg 216 Vision of Peregrinus, (whole length figure irradiated) - 222 lUyricus, Pope and Martyr - - - - 223 Market Women at Munich - . _ 355 Portrait of John Mielich, the painter - - 275 Capital of a Pillar in the Crypt at Freysing - - 326 View from the Window of the Public Library at Landshut 333 Figure of Michael Neander, the Friend of Budaeus - - 353 Pilgrimage to the Monastery at Gottwic - - 433 Esau returning from Hunting, from a MS. of the Pentateuch of the IVth Century, - - - - 458 The Emperor Wenceslaus, and his Bathing Girls, from a MS. Bible 463 Figures in a Boat, with Music, from an illuminated MS. - 468 Mary Magdalene, from an illuminated MS. - - 469 Group of Females at Prayers, in the Cathedral of Vienna - 551 Portrait of Charles the Bold, from an Illuminated MS. in the Em- peror of Austria's private Library - - - 591 SUPPLEMENT. Portions of the Exterior of the Porch in the Monastery of St. James, at Ratisbon - - - - x Portion of the Castle Walls of Nuremberg, - - xvi Portrait of a Female at Nuremberg _ - - xvii A Horse, from an original design by M. Klein of Nuremberg xxxix The Palace of Heidelberg, - _ _ xlviii N appearing before the Public for the first time in the charac- ter of a Traveller, I am naturally desirous, like most candidates for fame in a similar situation, of throwing myself upon the liberality of those whom I address. Since the establishment of peace upon the Con- tinent, the English have eagerly yielded to their well-known ardour and curiosity, in visiting those countries, from which, by a long and apparently interminable state of warfare, they had been pre- viously excluded. In consequence, the wealth of Great Britain has been plentifully scattered upon VOL. I. * b 11 PREFACE. the soils of Italy, France, and Germany ; and we have been favoured, in return, with many valuable publications, in which the character, antiquities, or peculiarities, of the countries visited, have been described with ability and truth. But, while one Traveller has confined his at- tention exclusively to Antiquities ; and another, "v^-ith the same exclusive attention, to the produce and properties of soil; while a third has travelled for the purposes of political economy/ — a fourth as a statistical, and a fifth as a picturesque, tourist; there have been few or none who have favoured us with an account of the treasures of the Libraries, or of the general literary character, of those people with whom they have associated. For the first time, therefore, the Public will here find some attempt to gratify them in this important branch of information. Not that I can boast of having done much, beyond exciting the curiosity of the more en- terprising to make further researches, and to impart more valuable information : yet I would fain believe that, in a Tour which professes to be " BIBLIOGRAPHICAL," as wcll as "antiquarian and PICTURESQUE," there have been some suc- cessful attempts to inform the lovers of hterature. PREFACE. Ill and the collectors of books, of the various and almost inexhaustible sources of information which the Libraries of foreign countries contain. And perhaps it may be here worth remarking, that there are few pursuits, more gratifying to foreigners, or more likely to lead to useful results, than those connected with the object first specified in the title-page of this work. In the furtherance of such object, I am willing to hope that, as, on the one hand, I have always found the friendliest dis- position to assist my researches, so, on the other, there has been no backwardness in a grateful ac- knowledgment of favours conferred. Where so many have contributed their kind offices, it would be invidious to mention some names in exclu- sion of others ; and a register of the whole would occupy too large a portion of these prefatory remarks. But it is here the less necessary, as the names and the services of the persons alluded to will be found recorded in the body of the work. It wdll therefore be for the reader to determine in what manner I have done justice to the " rich and rare" volmnes, in manuscript and print, which have been unreservedly submitted to my inspec- tion. My object has been to select, and bear away, many of the curious, splendid, and interest- IV PREFACE. ing specimens of art, of the " OlDeU time," con- tained in these volumes ; and which, till their pre- sent appearance, were probably scarcely known — even to their possessors. If, by means of the beautiful embelUshments selected from such vo- lumes—and especially from those in the royal hbraries of Paris and Vienna* — I may be said to have thrown a few flowers upon the otherwise unalluring path of Bibliography, I shall never consider my time mis-spent, nor the expenses, attendant on my labours, misapplied. I am, how- ever, abundantly persuaded that very much, of the same character, yet remains to be accomplished ; which, should the present attempt be crowned with success, may possibly stimulate other travel- lers to more prosperous undertakings. For myself, the present is both ajirst and Jifial effort. * The reader will be pleased to examine the pages, in the second and third volumes, under the above running titles; in which he will discover, together with several original portraits, (here published for the first time) a great many beautiful spe- cimens of art which have been hid for centuries from general knowledge. The series of wood cuts, illustrative of the block-hooks preserved at Munich, form striking contrasts to the more de- licate " specimens of art" just alluded to. But such rude repre- sentations are not without their use — even if they be considered only as a supplement to Heineken's Idee Generate d'une Collection Complcttc des Estampes. PREFACE. Annexed to this pursuit, has been the desire of possessing the manuals of Instruction, or of Amuse- ment, common to the lower orders of the people where I have resided. These manuals are in verse and in prose ; and I have endeavoured both to diversify and enliven the following pages, by the introduction of specimens or extracts from them — especially throughout the account of the tour in Normandy. Whether in the unpreme- ditated Ballad, or the systematic Catechism* it will be observed that the genius and character of the people are yet the same. There will be fre- quently found, in either composition, the same peculiarity of custom, the same naivete of expres- sion, and the same felicity of reply. Whether the manual be moral or religious — and whether the song treat of chivalry or of love —it generally par- takes of that spirit and raciness which defies trans- fusion into a different language. In the notes, will be found accounts of, and extracts from, rare and curious pieces, which may reward the toil of dili- gent perusal. So much in explanation of the bibliographical objects in this Tour. The second object, as the * SeeVoL. i.pp. 133— 6: 188—146: 224: 316—321: 435— 444 : Vol. ii. pp. 3 : 23 : 48— 52 : 54 : &c. vi PREFACE. title-page announces, is antiquarian; or con- nected with the Antiquities of the several places visited. These antiquities have been principally architectural, with the exception of such as are in- dicated chiefly in the second volume.* Of those, which are distinctly architectural, the views of the Cathedral and the Rue du Bac, at Rouen ; of the Church of St. Pierre and of the Abbey of St. Stephen, at Caen; of the Cathedrals oiCoutances, Strasbom^g, Ulm, and Vienna ; of the churches of St. Mary and St. James, at ISlur ember g — together with the monasteries ofM'olk and Gottwic, and por- tions of the crypt at Freysing, and the church of the Monastery of St. James, at Ratisbon — as well as the old Palace or Castle at Heidelberg — may alone be considered sufficient to establish the propriety of the second epithet in the title-page of this work. But there are other decorations, smaller in size, yet not less brilhant in execution, which may be equally classed in the same department.-f- It remains to notice the portion of the work * This exception refers more particularly to the Plates from page '1 9 1 to p. 500. •f* Of these .W7rt//^r antiquarian decorations, the Castle ofArques, near Dn:rPE; the remains o/'the old castle walls^ the basso-relievo of tlie Champ de Drap (TOr, and the figures upon the monuments of Cardinal Amboise, and the Seneschal de Breze, at Rouen ; the PREFACE. VU which is denominated picturesque ; and of which some of the embeUishments necessarily par- take of the antiquarian character. The View of Rouen, on the road to Havre ; of Caudehec ; of Montmorenci Castle, at Tancarville ; of Falaise Castle ; of the Boulevards at Paris ; of the Old Gateway and New Gateway, at Nancy ; of the Market Place and Hotel de Ville at Stuttgart ; of the Citadel of Salzburg; of Albert Durers Street, at Nuremberg ; and the Halt of Pilgrims to Gottwic Monastery ; — to say nothing of minor views, of the same character, — may fairly en- title me to this popular epithet ; even at a time when almost every bookseller's shop is teem- ing with publications professing to be similar views of countries abroad and at home. I will not enter upon the invidious task of comparing these, with others which are just now claiming the attention of the public ; but it is equally my duty and inclination to affirm, that the beauty old houses at Caen ; the fac-similes of the Bayeux Tapestry, (of which the larger plate is perfectly unrivalled,) at Bayeux ; .the Castle at Vire ; the Castle and supposed head of William the Conqueror, at Falaise ; the old buildings, and cathedral orna- ments, at Strasbourg — together with the illustrations, of a similar kind, at Ratisbon and Nuremberg, are among the principal . . Avhich claim the peculiar attention of the reader. \iii PREFACE. of the views in this work, is at least equalled by \he\x fidelity. It is therefore but a necessary consequence of the foregoing premises, to introduce the name of the Artist, to whom, after all, these pages are probably indebted for their chief source of attrac- tion. Mr. George Lewis, who accompanied me, has here given such proofs of a varied and happy talent, that I hardly know (" absitinvidia") where to look for a union of such attainments in any other living Artist. When I say this, I am not unmindful of the superior claims of merit, in a knowledge of architectural perspective and an- tiquities, which distinguish the efforts of Coney, Mackenzie, Blore, Nash, Wild, and Cot- man* — names, which are equally a glory to the * Of the above artists, two only have ventured to exercise their pencils upon the shores of Normandy. Mr. Cotman is first in the order of time. His work will be found occasionally referred to, in the first volume of these pages. They are entitled Anglo- Norman Antiquities ; of which four parts (in folio) have al- ready appeared. This publication consists entirely of architec- tural and antiquarian views, with a slender portion of text, without literary pretensions ; and these views are both drawn and engraved by the author. They are thoroughly artist-like ; without minute finish or marking of the parts, or much breadth of shadow : and they reflect very great credit upon the talents of their author. Some- thing in the shape of a rival publication has recently appeared in France, under the title of Monumcns Normands, by Jolimens : ac- PREFACE. IX arts and to the age. But the reader will cast his eye upon the views included in the antiquarian department of this work, and he will perceive that Mr. Lewis is nearly as powerful in the de- hneation of Gothic remains, as of picturesque ap- pearances of nature, and of national character in groups of the common people. It was due to talents of this description, and more especially was it due to a liberal public, that the copies from such a pencil should be worthy of the originals ; and I am willing to hope that, as no expense has been spared, and no pains and exertions have been withheld, the engravings in these volumes may, upon the whole, be considered a splendid and permanent monument of the progress of British Art. companied by letter-press, in folio. The plates are lithographical — but they are what artists call "woolly and feeble." Nevertheless, they occasionally exhibit architectural relics which are dear to the cu- rious eye of an Antiquaiy. The performances of Mr. Mackenzie are of a class quite different to either of the foregoing. They are minute, elaborate, and highly finished drawings, chiefly of the Ca- thedral Antiquities of France - with the figures supphed by the pencil of a very able native artist, M. Langlois. It is hardly possible to say too much in commendation of these exquisite, and really matchless, productions; and when the public learn that they will be made acquainted with them through the burins of the two Le Keuxs . . . they will have only to look forward to a gratification, which, of its kind, cannot possibly be exceeded. X PREFACE. Reverting to the Text — and being desirous of detaining the reader as short a time as possible — it may be necessary, in the first place, to state, that these Letters must be understood as having been written abroad; and that the Notes are necessarily the result of subsequent intelligence, since the author's return to England. In the second place, it may be permitted me to re- mark, that, of the countries here described, Nor- mandy (although in France) may be considered a distinct and peculiar country; and in a great measure new to British readers. Since the ap- pearance of Ducarel's very pompous but very im- perfect work upon Anglo-Norman Antiquities^^ there has been, with some few recent exceptions,-f scarcely any thing deserving of the careful perusal * It was published In 1768, in a thin folio volume, with a good number of plates ; which latter are remarkable only for . . . their general infidehty, and want of the most ordinary artist-like talent. -f- some Jew recent exceptions,~\ The principal of these " excep- tions,"" is the work of my friend Mr. Dawson Turner, under the title of Some Account of a Tour in Normandy, c§x. published by J. and A. Arch, in 1 820, in two octavo volumes, in a manner equally creditable to the author, the artists, and the printer. I hardly know so elegant a specimen of a Provincial Press. But this is only a secondary merit ; the style is that of a lettered gentleman, and the researches and opinions, which the work developes, are those of a sober and sensible antiquary. The copper-plate embellishments PREFACE. XI of an English antiquary . . respecting a country, from which our Kings, and a great portion of our Nobility, have spnmg— and in which many of the churches and castles are supposed to have been erected either by Enghsh money or by EngUsh hands. Nor is the fertility of its soil, and beauty of its landscape, (which latter har- monises so perfectly with its objects of art) less deserving of the admiration of the traveller: are entirely by female hands . . the dearest to the author which could have been employed . . and if they are sometimes slight, or sometimes incomplete, they are generally delicate and faithful, and rarely fail to arrest attention and receive applause. Mr. Turner was earlier in the Norman field than myself ; but it has been gratifying to me to observe, that, ^^^thout any previous or subsequent communication, we have formed many similar opinions respecting the same objects of art and antiquity. We have, also, without the least prevbus knowledge, devoted pretty neaily the same number of pages to the same countries described. In our respective performances, however, some places will be found to have lieen visited by 07ie traveller, which the other omitted to see : and A ice versa. Upon the whole, Mr. Turner s performance is a valu- able addition to our stock of knowledge respecting the architec- tural AxTiauiTiES of NoRMAXDY. A yet more recent publica- tion upon Normandy is that of Mrs. Stotiiaud, under die title of " Letters zoritten during a Tour through Normandij, Briftan/j, and other Parts of France, in the year 1818 ; published by Messrs. Longman and Co. in 1820, 4 to. This work appears to treat more fully of Brittany than of Normandy ; but I have as yet liad no opportunity of examining its contents. The plates, for the sake of the name and reputation of Mr. Stotiiard, should have been elseivhere. XU PREFACE. while, in the costume of the common people,* we frequently observe those characteristics of a style of art, with which our antiquarian eyes have been famihar in the illuminated pages of the fifteenth century. The first volume of this work, together with a small portion of the second, is exclusively devoted to Normandy. The treasures of the Public Libraries of Paris furnish the chief materials of the second volume ; and a portion of the third still belongs to France. In consequence, the account of Germany is confined within narrower limits than was originally intended : yet I am wil- ling to hope that it will appear that the biblio- graphical and architectural antiquities of * the costume of the common people.^ — The smaller plates (en- graved with so much talent by the several artists whose names are attached to them) will fully justify the truth of the above remark. These plates abound more frequently in the first volume; as in the groups at Dieppe^ Rouen, Caen, and St. Lo, — Normandy being a country fertile in the exhibition of ancient and curious costume. But they are also seen at Paris, (vol. ii. p. 499.) Stras- bcmrg, (vol. iii. p. 32.) ax\A. Munich (vol. iii. p. 255.) In respect to the larger subjects — such as the Fille de Chamhre at Dieppe, at Caen, and at Nuremberg — it should be observed that these are re- presented with great attention to truth ; and perfectly divested of that theatrical and artificial air given to similar subjects by French Artists. They also serve to prove, that the high caps and stiff* garments, which have delighted the curious Antiquary in ancient illuminations, are yet far from being ideal ornaments. PREFACE. Xm that highly interesting country have not been neglected. In the former department, the libra- ries of Munich and Vienna afford inexhaustible subjects of selection and admiration ; and to have seen the celebrated purple MS. of a portion of the Booh of Genesis* — adorned with the art of the fourth century — ^has, alone, almost requited the toil and pains of a journey of no very ordinary ex- tent. In the department of architectural anti- quities, the cities of Ratisbon and Nuremberg are, of themselves, suificient to supply the most curious and interesting details for a work of at least half the extent of the present. One word more, and I have done. Whatever may have been the objects of other travellers, or the feelings with which those objects have been viewed by them — whether as connected with * purple MS. of a portion of the book of Genesis.] This MS. I apprehend to be the oldest extant. It has been before des- cribed (on the exclusive authority of Lambecius) in the Bihliogra- phical Decameron, vol. i. p. xliii. — iv. Once, for all, let me be here allowed to say, that, whenever that work and the Bibliotheca Spen- ceriana have been quoted, in the following pages, it has been only when they were conceived to afford the best information, within the author's knowledge, upon the subject treated of. I would cheer- fully wave the right, which every man possesses, of doing what he pleases with his own property, if I thought the imputation of egotism could be justly said to apply to such self-reference. xiv PREFACE. art or with society— I have never ceased to bear in mind, that an attachment to the laws and Hberties of one's own country, could never be in- creased by a systematic disparagement of those of others : that civilities and kindnesses conferred, called for grateful returns ; and that the senti- ments which possessed me, at an early period of my continental visit,* have never ceased to operate till the moment of my return. This confession implies neither unqualified praise, nor unqualified censure, of the manners and customs of the coun- tries visited. It neither checks freedom of thought, nor truth of observation — but least of all does it betray a fixed and malign disposition to disown the soil of one's birth, to forget the country which has yielded protection to our persons and pro- perties, and to traduce those laws which have long rendered her the envy and admiration of the world. If, on the one hand, I may say with a wri- ter,"!* when speaking of the character of France — " Gens, humanitate in exteros, benevolentia in eru- ditos, et facili in omnes comitate, pr^ aliis in- siGNis " — I trust, on the other hand, that I may be * See vol. i. 183, 4. ■j- Buckley; in his dedication of the edition of De Thous Historia sui Temporis to Dr. Mead. PREFACE. XV permitted to conclude, in the words of a much higher authority,* — " I suppose that, wherever mention is made of countries, manners, or men, the English People, among the first that shall be praised, may deserve to be accounted a right pious, right honest, and right hardy nation." Thomas Frognall Dibdin. P.S.I had forgotten to state, that the references, in some of the notes, to the tEdes ALTHORPiANiE must, till the publication of that work — towards the close of the year — be considered as premature. When these volumes were put to press, it was imagined that they would have been preceded by the work in question. The unavoidable cause of the delay of that work, is sufficiently known to the pubhc. * Milton: — WorTis, vol. i. p. 217: fol edit. l698 LETTER I. PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. Dieppe, April 20, 1818. At length then/ my dear Friend, the long projected " Voyage bibliographique, antiquaire, et pittoresque/' has begun to be carried into execution ; and the " Voyageur" is safely landed upon the shores of Nor- mandy. When I think upon those pleasant strolls which we used occasionally to enjoy together upon the Downs, or on the Cliff, at Brighton — when I call to mind how you used to excite my curiosity, and inflame my love of enterprise, by pointing to every accidental white sail which glimmered in the offing of that dreary expanse of sea ; — how you told me that the outward-bound vessel was carrying some adven- turous bibliographer to run away with all the book- treasures along the shores of the Mediterranean, and that the inward-bound was freighted with such vo- lumes as Maittaire had never dreamt of, nor Panzer had seen — and when you chided me for my scrupu- 2 PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. loiis delays, because I was unwilling to break away fi-om Decameronic engagements, till the " Ten Days Pleasant Discourse" were fully and fairly before the public : — when, I say, " I do remember me of these things," and look back upon that said ocean which I have crossed, and upon the strange and grotesque objects by which I am here surrounded, I cannot but experience a combination of feelings and of thoughts which it were difficult to have anticipated, and which it is still more difficult to describe. Without further preface or prologue, therefore, I shall rush at once upon the subject-matter of discussion. In other words, I shall transmit to you (as you have earnestly requested me to do) such periodical accounts of my " travels and adventures" as may be most likely to interest yourself and family. Grant me all your indulgent patience, and all your unqualified candour. " Vous voila done. Messieurs, a Dieppe!" — ex- claimed the landlord (De La Rue) of the Grand Hotel d'Angleterre — as we made our way through a vociferating crowd of old and young, of both sexes, with cards of addresses in their hands, entreating us to take up our abode at their respective hotels But I know your love of method, and of minuteness of detail, and that you will be angiy with me if I do not " begin at the beginning." Be it so then : and yet, what can you possibly expect in the description of that, which thousands, and perhaps tens of thousands, have done and said before me? It was surely on one of the finest of all fine days that I left my home, on the 14th of this present month, for the land of castles, churches, and ancient chivalry. The PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. 3 wind from the south-east was blowing- pretty smartly at the time ; but the sky was without a cloud, and I could not but look upon the brilliancy of every ex- ternal object as a favourable omen of the prog-ress and termination of my tour. The word of departure being given — in one minute not a particle of my little brick dwelling was to be seen : when, commending* its precious inhabitants to the especial care of Heaven till my return, I sank quietly backwards upon my seat, and essayed to hold discourse with my companions. Those companions, as you well know, were Mr. George Lewis, and my Son. The former, an artist of singular merit and amiable manners, was selected to accom- pany me throughout the whole of my journey for the purpose of taking views, or of making copies, of what might be deemed curious and precious in art. Adverse winds, or the indolence or unwillingness of the Captain, detained us at Brighton two whole days — instead of sailing, as we were led to expect, on the day following our arrival there. We were to form the first ship's company which had visited France this season. Tlie passengers becoming clamorous as well as numerous, it was resolved that we should sail on the Friday : when, the wind still blowing stiffly, with lowering clouds from the south-east — and the Captain still thinking his passengers out of their wits to desire to sail with such an almost directly adverse wind — we were launched upon the ocean in the jolly boat ; and approaching our gallant little packet, the Nancy, ^ commanded by Captain Blaber, the anchor * This smart little vessel, considered to be the fastest sailing packet from Dieppe, of .about 70 tons burden, scarcely survived our voyage VOL. I. B 4 PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. was weighed, and hoisting sail, we stood out to sea. The day began to improve upon us. The gloomy ap- pearances of the morning gradually brightened up. A host of black clouds rolled heavily away. The sun at length shone in his full meridian splendour, and the ocean sparkled as we cut through its emerald waves . . Vela dabant Iseti, et spumas salis sere ruebant. As we were approaching the period of a fidl moon, about four o'clock that chaste orb became faintly visible in the opposite horizon ; and for some two or three hours our spirits continued buoyant, chiefly from the extraordinary beauty of the day. What moments were these for the indulgence of gay hope, and ardent expectation ! It was to be my debut upon a foreign eighteen months. Her end had nearly proved fatal to every soul on board. In a dark night, in the month of September, when bound for Dieppe, she was struck by a heavy London brig. The crew were with difficulty saved — and the vessel went down within about twenty- five minutes after she had been struck. In former times, it should seem that the voyage was usually under- taken from Rye. In the Memoirs of Sir Hugh Cholmley, Knt. and Bart. 1687, Part II. p. xxi. 4to. there is an interesting account of a passage from ' Rye to Deep,' (in which Sir Hugh was a passenger), upon a very stormy night — in which above eighty sail ' were lost between the entrance of the river at Rye, and the mouth of the Thames.' Sir Hugh was driven back ; but in a week afterwards tried the same passage with success. He concludes by describing the sailors at Dieppe as " a sort of very troublesome and exacting seamen, and with the stink of the worst tobacco in the world, added such suf- fering to those who being subject to sea-sickness, had endured enough a-board a bad vessel, and small cabin, that this addition be- came almost intolerable. Indeed it was scarce to be endured by such who used not to complain of evils at sea ! ' PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. 5 land ; and as I supposed we neared the French coast, I strained my eyes to obtain an early glimpse of some- thing in the shape of cliff or jettie. But the wind con- tinued more determinedly in the south-east : the waves rose in larger masses ; and our little vessel threw up a heavy shower of foam as we entered upon the various tacks. Then it was that the pallid cheek, and heavy eye, and dejected visage, became manifest : wiiile, to add to our wretchedness, the Captain told us that, on tacking from Beechey Head, it would be advisable for every one to go below — for that the wind would be blowing " rather fresh." These " rathers," my good friend, sound gently enough from the mouth ; but are, in themselves, sometimes words of terrific import. In another sense, we were to prepare for a strong breeze, or something like a stiff gale — although, wonderful to say! the atmosphere continued cloudless. It is a grand sight — that vast, and apparently inter- minable ocean ! maria undique et undique coelum ! We now darted from Beechy Head upon a long tack for the French coast ; and as the sun declined, we found it most prudent to put our Captain's advice into execution. Then commenced all the miseries of the voyage ! The moon had begun to assert her ascendancy, when, racked with torture and pain in our respective berths, a tremendous surge washed completely over the deck, sky-light, and binnacle : and down came in con- sequence, drenched with the ' briny wave,' the hardiest of our crew, who had, till then, ventured to linger upon deck. That crew was various ; and not without a few of the natives of those shores which we were 6 PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. about to visit. ITieir gaiety however continued undis- turbed, in spite of frequent and violent indisposition. Dr. Johnson, I believe, preferred a prison to a ship — chiefly from the dread of fire. There are other causes from which a preference may be given. ITiese I will not enumerate. But to cut short my ship-narrative, suffice it only further to say, that, towards midnight, we heard our Captain exclaim that he saw " the lights of Dieppe!" — a joyful sound to us miserable wretches below. There, however, we continued to lie, tossing at anchor : it being impossible to enter the harbour till towards seven in the morning, owing to a want of sufficient water. But it was good news to find that we were safe, and beyond the reach of further overwhelming surges. I well remember, at this mo- ment, looking up towards the deck with a cheerless eye, and perceiving the light of the moon still linger- ing upon the main-sail, — but I shall never forget how much more powerfully my sensations were excited, when, as the dawn of day made objects visible, 1 looked up, and saw an old wrinkle-visaged sailor, with a red night cap on, begirt with large blue, puck- ered, short petticoats, in possession of the helm — about to steer the vessel into harbour ! * " Here is the true weather-beaten French mariner," thought I to myself; — and Mr. Lewis would have given his last English piece of money to have sketched the face and figure of this picturesque old pilot. But extreme indisposition confined him in his berth, among the most helpless of the passengers. * The English are not permitted to bring their own vessels into harbour — for obvious resaons. (DB-TDTCDJIFim, Jl'li'-'M o PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. 7 About seven we were all upon deck. The sea was yet swoln and agitated, and of a dingy colour ; while .... heavily with clouds came on the day, as we slowly approached the outward harbour of Dieppe. A grey morning, with drizzling rain, is not the best accompaniment of a first visit to a foreign shore. Nevertheless, every thing was new, and strange, and striking; and the huge crucifix to the right, (of which a representation is conveyed in this despatch) did not fail to make a very forcible impression. It is, however, sufficiently tasteless ; having the negative merit only of being the largest in France. As we approached the inner harbour, the shipping and the buildings more distinctly presented themselves. What a scene (said I to my companion) for our Calcott ! The harbour is large, and the vessels are entirely mercantile, with a plentiful sprinkling of fishing smacks — but the manner in which the latter harmonised with the tint and structure of the houses — the bustle upon shore — the casks, deal planks, ropes, and goods of every description upon the quays, — all formed a most animated and interesting scene. The population seemed countless, and chiefly females ; whose high caps and enormous ear-rings, with the rest of their paraphernalia, half per- suaded us that, instead of being some few twenty-five leagues only from our own white cliffs, we had in fact dropt upon the Antipodes 1 It was a full hour before we got upon terra firma — saluted, and even assailed on all sides, with entreaties to come to certain hotels. " Mais, Monsieur, Monsieur, par ici, par ici, — c'est ici oil vous serez charm6 de votre reception — vous serez S PASSAGE TO DIEPPE. k votre aise chez"— "C'est I'Hotel d'Angieterre que nous cherchons (replied I.)" — "A la bonne heure, (exclaimed a lively young man) — suivez, Monsieur^ je vous prie ;" when, upon entering the coffee-room of the inn, the worthy De La Rue, the landlord, exclaimed (as I think I before told you) " Vous voila done. Messieurs, k Dieppe — soyez le bien venu I " We declared ourselves well satisfied : and willing to forget the miseries of the voyage, sat down to eggs and coffee, resolving to be in good humour with every thing around us. ^ LETTER II. DIEPPE. FISHERIES. STREETS. CHURCHES OF ST. JACQUES AND ST. REMY. DIVINE WORSHIP. MILI- TARY MASS. The town of Dieppe* contains a population of about twenty-thousand souls. Of these, by much the greater * town of Dieppe.'] Dieppe owes its origin to the accidental asso- ciation of a few adventurous fishermen. The rapid strides by which it rose from insignificancy to importance, are not marked in the annals of the historian : nor does its present population arise from those causes which have rendered Brighton and Hastings so prosperous. No Frenchman thinks of settling at Dieppe without having commercial objects in view ; whereas, in the places just mentioned, some hundreds of families yearly resort for the benefit of sea-air and sea-bathing. Hence, the crescent, the colonnade, and other stately architectural appendages, are erected, to invite residence and cause the diffusion of money. At Dieppe a very different order of things prevails. I shall translate an interesting passage from a French work published in 1795, which gives a pretty good outline of the origin and ancient fish- eries of Dieppe : " In its origin, this town was only a miserable collec- tion of huts of fishermen, who, for the convenience of carrying on their trade, united themselves at the embouchure of the Arques, at the foot of the western cliff. At that time Dieppe was only a small bay, to which vessels resorted by favour of the tide : the whole of the ground, in which the present port is excavated, exhibiting nothing but a swamp inundated twice a day. By degrees Dieppe reared its head, and the fishery, which may be called the agriculture of the sea, was the first foundation of its future grandeur. " As this town owed its origin to some obscure fishermen, so has it owed its prospei'ity to the same useful class of men. The deeds and 10 DIEPPE. stationary part are females ; arising from one-third at least of the males being constantly engaged in the fish- eries. As these fisheries form the main support of the charters of the time make mention of a great number of different sorts of fish which every day arrived at the port, — of which the principal species was the herring, and of which species the antiquity reaches to the year 1030 ; there was also the mackarel, mentioned in a number of title-deeds of the xiith centuiy : to which must be added the cod, the whiting, the congre-eel, more abundant formerly than at present ; le colletan, a fish which has now entirely forsaken our rivers ; the thorn- back, tuntbe, sole, haddock, anon, salmon, turbot, roach, porpoise, sturgeon, &c. But of all these species, the herring was infinitely the most useful and important in every respect ; and not only were they sought in the Channel, but our vessels went in search of them to the northern seas, to Yarmouth even on the English coasts, and upon those of Schonen in Sweden : they even brought away the herring from Escone, of which there is often mention made in the ordinances of the time. Afterwards they exported this fish, salted, to all the ports of the Medi- terranean ; and, for this purpose, made use of their own vessels, which were called driiggers ; because, in return, they brought home from the sea-ports in the Levant, spices and drugs, such as wax, oil, honey, pepper, saffron, ginger, cinnamon, rosin, alum, woad, &c. and all the provisions of which mention is made in the tarifs of entry, by sea, at Dieppe, in the xiiith and xivth centuries." p. 105. Consult the " Premier Essai sur le D^partement de la Seine Infd- rieure, contenant les districts de Gournay, Neufchatel, Dieppe et Cany. Ouvrage topographique, historique et pittoresque, &c. par S.B.J. Noel, Redncteur du Journal de Rouen,'' 1795, an iii. 8vo. ; a scarce work at the present moment. But the author would have shewn more judgment if he had spared a few imbecile flings at his opposite neighbours. My predecessor. Doctor Ducarel, in his Anglo-Norman Antiquities, \761 , folio, p. 6, devotes about sixteen widely-spaced lines only, to his account of Dieppe ; subjoining, however, in a note, a copy of the original letters-patent of King Richard I. who granted the town to Walter, Archbishop of Rouen, in exchange for Andely, which he annexed to the duchy of Normandy. DIEPPE. 11 inhabitants, it is right that you should know something about them — and the recent appearance of Goubes work upon Normandy, will better enable me to send you a tolerably correct account. " That which chiefly gives occupation to the Dieppe vessels, is the diffe- rent fisheries of the place — and especially the salted herring, mackarel, and cod. The herring fishery takes place twice a year: in August and October. The August fishery is carried on along the shores of England and the North. From sixty to eighty vessels, of from twenty-five to thirty ton burthen each, with about fifteen men in each vessel, are usually employed. They are freighted with salt and empty barrels, for seasoning and stowing the fish, and they return about the end of October. The herrings caught in August are consider- ably preferable to those caught in October. The Octo- ber fishery is carried on with smaller vessels, along the coast of France from Boulogne to Havre. From one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty vessels are engaged in this later navigation ; and the fish, which is smaller, and of inferior flavour to that caught upon the English coasts, is sent almost entirely to the Provinces and to Paris, where it is eaten fresh." So much for the herrinsf. " The mackarel fishery usually commences towards the month of July, along the coast of Picardy ; be- cause, being a sort of fish of passage, it gets into the channel in the month of April. It then moves towards the straits of Dover, as summer approaches. For this fishery they make use of large-decked vessels, from twenty to fifty tons burden, manned with from twelve to twenty men. There are however Dieppe boats em- l)loyed in this fishery which go as far as the Scilly 12 DIEPPE. Islands and Ushant, towards the middle of April. They carry with them the salt requisite to season the fish, which are afterwards sent to Paris, and to the provinces in the interior of France. The cod fishery is divided into the fresh and dried fish. The former continues from the beginning of February to the end of April — and the vessels employed, which go as far as Newfound- land, are two deckers, and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty tons burden — although, in fact, they rarely carry more than fifteen tons for fear of spoiling the fish. The dried-cod fishery is carried on in vessels of all sizes ; but it is essential that they be of a certain depth, because the fish is more cumbersome than weighty. The vessels however usually set sail about the month of March or April, in order that they may have the advantage of the sunnner season, to dry the fish. Tliere are vessels which go to Newfoundland laden with brandy, flour, beans, treacle, linen and woollen cloths, which they dispose of to the inhabi- tants of the French colonies in exchange for dried cod. This latter species of commerce may be carried on in the summer months — as late as July." Tlie author thus concludes with some animation : " Ces peches occupent un grand nombre de marins : elles vivifient le commerce de Dieppe : elles occupent tons les ateliers — les chantiers pour la construction des batimens, la confection des filets pour la peche, celle des hame^ons, des cordages, des voiles, des barils ; ensuite vient la pre- paration des poissons, et leur expeditions journalieres, ainsi que celle du poisson frais, qui se renouvelle, pour ainsi dire, j\ chaque mar^e."* Vol. iii. p. 170. * Ilistoire du Duche de Normandie, par J. J. C. Goube, 1815, 8vo. DIEPPE. 13 In the common markets, for retail trade, they are not very nice in the quality or condition of their fish ; and enormous congre eels, which would be instantly rejected by the middling, or even lower classes in England, are, at Dieppe, bought with avidity and rehshed with glee. A few francs will procure a dish of fish large enough for a dozen people. The quays ai-e constantly crowded, but there seems to be more of bustle than of business. The town is certainly picturesque, notwithstanding the houses are very little more than a century oldj-f- and the streets are formal 3 vols. In the sequel, this work will be more particularly noticed The author of the It'm&aire de Rouen (1816, 12mo.) has given a more dramatic effect to his colouring of the same picture : " Alors tout est en mouvement, et I'observateur pent juger a son aise de leur Industrie, remarquer les differents effets de la joie, de la crainte, quel- quefois m^me de la tristesse, a la moindre nouvelle alarmante. L' alter- native du plaisir, de I'inquietude se peint sur la physionomie des femmes et des fiUes des marins, si le vent furieux et des nuages, pr^- curseurs de la tempete, viennent soul^ver les flots ecumants." p. 203. f little more than a century old^ The town of Dieppe has suffered often and severely. During the time of the Normans it was almost demolished. It was sharply attacked by Lord Talbot (called the English Caesar) in 1442, whose army seems to have been encamped near Banquemont, about a league from Dieppe, and to have occupied the strong position vulgarly called Caesar's Camp ; (see Ducarel, p 5, and Noel, p. 87-8) but it rose again with strength and beauty, tiU the middle of the sixteenth century, when, in consequence of a most sanguinarj' sea-fight between the Flemish and Dieppois, (in which the famous Coligny commanded the latter) it experienced a very heavy calamity in the loss of many vessels, and the destruction of a portion of the town by fire. But a heavier calamity awaited it in the memorable bombardment of the town by the English in 1694. Every thing seemed demolished but the old churches. " Witliin the 14 DIEPPE. and comparatively wide: but this picturesqueness arises from the materials of the buildings being of stone and brick, now gray-tinted — from the sharp pointed roofs — from the bold projections of the architecture, and the large dimensions of the windows. Indeed it should seem that the houses were built expressly for Noblemen and Gentlemen, although they are inhabited by tradesmen, mechanics, and artizans in apparently very indifferent circumstances. There is a great waste of brick, stone, and mortar, and some of the largest buildings are situated in the gloomiest courts. We saw scarcely six private houses which could be called short space of thirty hours (says Noel), the Enghsh threw in 300O shells and 4000 balls, and made use of a machine charged with all manner of combustible materials and bars of iron, in the view of set- ting fire to the two wooden jetties, in which attempt, however, they were foiled." p. 116. An ordonnance of Louis XIV., carried into effect by the patriotic spirit of the people, caused the town of Dieppe to rise out of its ashes, as we now behold it. The streets are well planned and well paved 3 and the Dieppois would feign compare their High-street to the rue de Richlieu, at Paris. I suspect that it is sheer poverty which causes so great a number of their upper win- dows to remain unglazed. A Tour in France, pubUshed in I70I, thus notices the town of Dieppe shortly after the memorable bombardment just mentioned. " These preparatory steps being over, we had our dinner, and afterwards walked into the town ; which, being bom- barded last war (1694) by the English, is hardly yet rebuilt. M''hat houses are up are lofty, so that the town is almost new, and will be a fine one, when finished, though not large 3 we saw the ruins of many houses 3 for the bombardment was so violent and successful that few were left standing entire. The great Church and Castle suf- fered in some parts, and other churches were quite demolished. The streets are large and straight, and the buildings uniform, generally of the same height, and all of a sort of white brick," Sic.— Gent. Maga- zine, March 1819, p. 207> vol. lxxxix. DIEPPE. 15 elegant, and not a gentleman's carriage has been yet noticed by us in the streets. But if the Dieppois are not rich, they seem happy, and are in a constant state of occupation. A woman sells her wares in an open shop, or in an insulated booth, and sits without her bonnet — as indeed do all the tradesmen's wives — and works or sings as humour sways her. A man sells gin- gerbread in an open shed, and in the intervals of his cus- tomers coming, reads some popular history or romance. Most of the upper windows are wholly destitute of glass ; but are smothered with clothes, rags, and wall flowers. The fragrance emitted from these flowers affords no unpleasing antidote to odors of a very different de- scription: — and here we begin to have a too convincing proof of the general character of the country in re- gard to the want of cleanliness. A little good sense, or rather a better-regulated police, would speedily get rid of such nuisances. The great crying evil throughout France, in respect to out-door inconveniences, arises from suffering the filth, of whatever description, to accumulate in the streets : and when the office of purification is put in force, it is so slovenly executed, that a portion is always left behind in order to show where future deposits are to be made. The want of public sewers is another great and grievous cause of smells of every description : but the French are used to these things — and will quietly sit with a collection of dirt beneath their noses, which would cause a notable spinster or housewife, on our side the water, to start back with disgust. At Dieppe there are fountains in abundance ; and if some of the limpid streams, which issue therefrom, were directed to cleansing the streets. 16 DIEPPE. (which are excellently well paved) the effect would be both more salubrious and pleasant — especially to the sensitive organs of Englishmen ! We had hardly concluded our breakfasts, on land- ing, when we saw a funeral go by : the priests and boys, with their black caps, white surplices, and umbrellas over their heads, (as it was raining) chaunt- ing both loud and lustily — unconcerned at the busy and bawling scenes through which the procession must necessarily pass. What a novel object was this to gaze at! Anon, a loud and clattering sound was heard ; and down came, in a heavy trot, with sundry ear-piercing crackings of the whip, the thundering Diligence: large, lofty, and of most unwieldy dimensions : of a structure, too, strong enough to carry a half score of elephants. The postilion is an animal perfectly sui generis : gay, alert, and living upon the best possible terms with himself. He wears the royal livery, red and blue ; with a plate of the fleur de lis upon his left arm. His hair is tied behind in a thick, short, tightly fastened queue : with powder and pomatum sufficient to wea- ther a whole winter's storm and tempest. As he never rises in his stirrups, I leave you to judge of the mer- ciless effects of this ever-beating club upon the texture of his jacket. He is however fond of his horses: is well known by them ; and there is all flourish and noise, and no sort of cruelty, in his treatment of them. His spurs are of tremendous dimensions ; such as we see sticking to the heels of knights in illuminated Mss. of the xvth century. He has nothing to do with the ponderous machine behind him. He sits upon the near of the two wheel horses, with three horses before him. DIEPPE. 17 His turnings are all adroitly and correctly made ; and, upon the whole, he is a clever fellow in the exercise of his office. We had not spent half of the Saturday at Dieppe, before Mr. Lewis brought us a sketch, of which the en- closed is a faithful and spiritedly-finished dramng ; and so correctly are the characters identified, that the Jille de chatnbre, at our hotel, instantly recognized the old woman, or the stout figure, to the right — as the per- son who usually brought fish for the consumption of their table. In this group, in fact, you have an epitome OF THE WHOLE FISH-MARKET 18 DIEPPE. I shall probably send you, in some future despatch, a more sober and near view of the far-famed cauchoise. You ought to know, that, formerly, this town was greatly celebrated for its manufactures in Ivorij ;* but the present aspect of the ivory-market affords but a faint notion of what it might have been in the sixteenth and seventeeth centuries. I purchased a few subordinate articles (chiefly of a religious character) and which I shall preserve rather as a matter of evidence than of admiration. There is yet however a considerable ma- nufacture of thread lace ; and between three and four thousand females are supposed to earn a comfortable livelihood by it. * manufactures in Ivory.'] It was possibly under the bold excur- sion of such distinguished navigators and captains as Parmentiek, DusjiESNiL, and the great merchant An go, (in the sixteenth and seven- teenth centuries) that the ivory trade had attained its highest pitch of prosperity. The establishments of the Dieppois in Guinea necessarily facilitated the means of improving this branch of commerce. Walpole, in his Anecdotes of Painting, vol. iii. p. 262, makes honorable mention of Le marchanb, a native of Dieppe, who worked very successfully for several years in London. Mr. West was in possession of that Artist's own head, cut by himself ; and Lord Oxford had his head of Lord Somers. Evelyn, who visited Dieppe in the year 1644, observes that it then " abounded with workmen who made and sold curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shell, and whatever the East Indies afforded of cabinets and purcelan ; and that natural and exotic rarities were there to be had with abundant choice." Life and Writings of Evelyn, vol. i. p. 51, edit. 1818, 4to. In short, it appears to have been just at the time of Evelyn's visit, that Dieppe was in the height of its opulence and population ; for in one of Zeiller's views of it, (in his Topographia Gallice, 1650) there are special designations of the establishments of Minimes, Capucins, Carmelites, Jesuits, Ursulins and the Halles, &c. The river Argues seems also to have been very wide, particularly at its embouchure in the harbour. DIEPPE. 19 My love of ecclesiastical architecture quickly in- duced me to visit the churches ; and we all three set out to pay our respects to the principal church, called St. Jacques. As we entered it, a general gloom pre- vailed, and a sort of premature evening came on ; while the clatter of the sabots was sufficiently audible along the aisles. In making the circuit of the side chapels, an unusual light proceeded from a sort of grated door way. We approached, and witnessed a sight which could not fail to rivet our attention. In what seemed to be an excavated interior, were several figures, cut in stone, and coloured after life — of which they were the size — representing the three Maries, St. John, and Joseph of Ar'imathea . . in the act of en- tombing Christ : the figure of our Saviour being half sunk into the tomb. The whole was partially illu- minated by some two dozen of shabby and nearly con- sumed tallow candles ; affording a striking contrast to the increasing darkness of the nave and the side-aisles. We retired, more and more struck with the novelty of every object around us, to our supper and beds, which were both excellent ; and a good night's rest made us forget the miseries of the preceding evening. Tlie next morning, being Sunday, we betook our- selves in good time to the service at St. Jacques'* : not however before Mr. Lewis, who had risen between six and seven o'clock, had brought home a sketch of what had taken place in the front of the church in the market place. This sketch represents a waxen figure * the service at St. Jacques'.'] — The stone with which this church is builtj is said to have been brought from England j but I should rather apprehend it to have been obtained from Caen, which, as the reader will see in the sequel, has been long and 20 DIEPPE. of Christ (what is called " Ecce Homo") enclosed within a box, of which the doors are opened. The figure and box are the property of the man who plays the violin, and who is selling little mass books, sup- posed to be rendered more sacred by having been passed across the feet and hands of the waxen Christ. Such a mongrel occupation, and such a motley group, must strike you with astonishment — as a Sunday morning's recreation ! You receive it here, after its having been submitted to the finishing process of light and shade. DIEPPE. 21 By half past ten the congregation had assembled in good earnest ; and every side-chapel (I think about twelve in number) began to be filled by the penitent flocks : each bringing, or hiring, a rush-bottomed chair; with which the churches are pretty liberally furnished, and of which the Tarif (or terms of hire) is pasted upon the walls. There were, I am quite sure, full eighteen women to one man ; which may in part be accounted for (as I before observed) by the almost uniform absence of a third of the male population occupied in the fisheries. I think there could not have been fewer than two thou- sand souls present. I contrived to get upon the steps which separate the choir from the nave, and witnessed from thence a sort of ocean of white caps — as the women sat or knelt. But what struck me as the most ludicrously solemn thing I had ever beheld, was, a huge tall figure, dressed like a drum-major, with a large cocked hat and three white plumes, (the only covered justly distinguished for the superior qualities of its stone. Here also, as well as at Rouen, they will have it that the English built the churches ! Noel says that the entombing of Christ, as above described, is done after the original at Jerusalem, and that it was exe- cuted in 1612, at the expense of a pious traveller, who returned from Palestine. The fine sculptured culs-de-lampes, in silver, which used to hang about the chapel of the Virgin, and which excited the admira- tion of Cardinal Barberini, together with sundry other delicate and precious embellishments, were destroyed during the bombardment mentioned at p. 13 ante. And I may add that ornaments, of a more solid character, such as interior and exterior fret-works, porches, ballus- trades, &c. were dreadfully defaced during the Revolution — which, has left frightful marks of its ravages in Normandy ! 22 DIEPPE. male fi^re in the congregation), a broad white sash upon a complete suit of red, including red stockings ; — representing what in our country is called a Beadle ! He was a sturdy, baboon-visaged gentleman — bearing an halberd in his right hand, which he wielded with a sort of pompous swing, infusing terror into the young, and commanding the admiration of the old. In the procession of the priests, where the voices are raised to a higher pitch, and where the service seems to de- mand a more pious expression, the zeal of the con- gregation was unequivocally manifested by very general and sonorous responses : and I must say that, in some particulars connected with the fulfilment of church du- ties, it were well if we took a lesson from our conti- nental neighbours. But so little sense of out-door public decency prevails, that, during service, we were constantly annoyed by the sounds of the drum and fife, calling the national guard together for military mass at St. Remy. I must not, however, omit to inform you, that half the service was scarcely performed when the preacher mounted a pulpit, with a black cap on, and read a short sermon from a printed-book — a method, by the bye which some apologists for intellec- tual and manual labour might think worthy of imita- tion in our own country! I shall never forget the figure and attitude of the Verger who attended the preacher : he followed him to the pulpit, fastened the door, became stationary, and reposed his left arm over the raihngs of the stairs. Anon, he took out his snuff box with his right hand, and regaled himself with a pinch of snuff in the most joyous and comfortably-ab- DIEPPE. 23 stracted manner imaginable. There he remained till the conclusion of a thirteen minutes discourse ; not one word of which seemed to afford him half the satisfac- tion as did the contents of his snuflf-box ! You know that you have absolutely commanded me to be " mi- nute in all things," and you see with what trifles I have in consequence ventured to entertain you. Militari/ Mass was performed about an hour after at the church of St. Remy. Both Mr. Lewis and my Son saw this extraordinary spectacle, but I had had " sufficient for one dose." Yet I strolled quietly to that same church, to witness the devotion of the congrega- tion previous to the entry of the soldiers ; and I will not dissemble that I was much struck and gratified by what I saw. There was more simplicity: a smaller congregation : softer music : a lower-toned organ : less rush of people; and in very many of the flock the most intense and unfeigned expression of piety. At the elevation of the host, from the end of the choir, (near which was suspended a white flag, with the portrait of the present King thereupon) a bell was rung from the tower of the church : the sound, below, was soft and silver-toned — accompanied by rather a quick movement of the organ, upon the diapason stop ; which, united with the silence and prostration of the congregation, might have commanded the reverence of the most pro- fane. I became motionless, save a slight and fixed inclination of the head — in which attitude I could not refrain from oflering up a prayer for the preservation of those left behind ! — and which prayer, although not bor- rowed from the Romish ritual, might possibly be not the less availing on that account. Tliere is nothing, my 24 DIEPPE. dear friend, more refreshing, in a foreign land, than this general appearance of earnestness of devotion, upon a sabbath day ; especially within the House of God. Out of doors a very different order of things prevails : But I quickly heard the clangor of the trumpet, the beat of drums, the measured tramp of human feet, and in marched two or three troops of the national guard to perform military mass. I retired precipitately to the Inn. My companions, who staid behind, told me that this military mass consisted of certain manoeuvres of the soldiers, with their caps on, within the choir — ac- companied by loud and stunning music. It seemed a frightful contrast to all that had preceded it. I must not conclude this epistle, while upon the sub- ject of churches, without informing you that, of the two, I consider that of St. Remy, or rather of some portions of it, to be the more ancient ; but St. Jacques, upon the whole, is not only the largest, but the most elaborately sculptured, edifice. I should think the latter end of the XlVth centuiy, a date quite anti- quated enough for the completion of its building. Tlie Revolution has not failed to leave marks of its horrible devastations upon portions of the exteriors of these churches ; but modern manners have not yet produced a revolution of a different and more desirable charac- ter — that of paying attention to the affches stuck upon the outer walls — in which all " ordure et immondices" are strictly forbidden to be deposited. Thus, to for- bid is one thing ; and to pay attention to the prohibi- tion is another. The filth that sometimes pervades these churches is equally gross, noxious, and revolting. They certainly do " order these things better in" — DIEPPE. 25 England. Forgive this new reading : but I cannot help, in spite of all the marvels by which I am surrounded, putting in a good word now and then for my own country. So God bless you. P. S. Mr. Lewis has just brought me another spirited drawing, of what may be considered equally characte- ristic of the Market Women, look at it attentively ; for I can assure you that the fidelity is equal to the spirit, of the performance. 26 LETTER III. VILLAGE AND CASTLE OF ARQUES. SABBATH AMUSE- MENTS. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. BOULEVMdS. As I had received especial injunctions from our friend N * * * not to leave Dieppe without paying a visit to the famous Chateau cVArques* in its neighbour- hood, I resolved to seize the opportunity of a tolerably fair, or rather gray-looking day, to go and pay due homage to these venerable remains of antiquity ; and accordingly, on the same Sunday, between one and two, Mr. L. and myself set out upon this congenial en- terprise. You go up the principal street, continue to the left, and pass under the gate or outlet to Rouen, where * the famous Chateau d'Arques.] — The French Antiquaries have pushed the antiquity of this castle to the 8th century, supposing it to have been built by William d'Arques, Count of Tallon, son of the se- cond marriage of Richard Duke of Normandy. I make no doubt, that, whenever built, the sea almost washed the base of it 3 for it is known to have occupied the whole of what is called the Valley of Argues, running as far as Bouteilles. Its position, in reference to the art of war, must have been almost impregnable. Other hypotheses assign its origin, perhaps with more truth, to the ninth or tenth century j as a bulwark against the invasion of the Normans. When- ever built, its history has been fertile in sieges. In 1 144, it was commanded by a Flemish Monk, who preferred the spear to the crosier, but who perished by an arrow in the contest. Of its history, up to the sixteenth century, I am not able to give any details ; but in the wars of Henry IV. with the League, 1589, it was taken by surprise by sol- DIEPPE. 27 the noble road to Paris^ on a fine ascent, faces you upon quitting the town. You leave this to the right, turn down a bye-road, which runs beneath a high bank or small hanging wood, and continue straight forward about two English miles ; when you catch the first glimpst of the castle to the right. The road thither is complfj -lily rural: apple-trees, just beginning to burst their blossoms, hamlets, small farm-houses, (many of which were skilfully covered with blue slate)a profusion of ric|] herbage of various kinds, delighted and regaled us as we pursued our tranquil walk. The country is of a gently-undulating character : but the flats or mea- dows, between the parallel ranges of hills, are subject to constant inundation from the sea ; and in an agri- cultural point of view are consequently of little use, except for summer grazing of the cattle. It was drawing on to vespers as we approached the f^illage ofArques: a young countryman, neatly dressed, but bare-headed, having undertaken to conduct us thi- ther by a nearer road. The old castle had frequently peeped out upon us from its elevated situation ; but we were resolved to see " all that could be seen," — and a French village, for the first time, was not to be over- diers in the disguise of sailors : who, stabbing the centinels, quickly made themselves masters of the place. Henry caused it afterwards to be dismantled. In the first half of the eighteenth century it received very severe treatment from pillage, for the purpose of erecting public and private buildings at Dieppe. The Revolution added to these ra- A'ages : " Aujourd'hui ses tours, ses remparts, ce donjon qui retentirent pendant plusieurs sifecles des cris des combattans et de la victoire, livrfes maintenantauplus morne silence, sunt devenus le s6jour des hiboux et des oiseaux nocturnes:" such is the solemn description of this vene- rable ruin by the author of the Itineraire de Rouen ; IS\6, p. 199. 28 DIEPPE. looked. Accordingly we made a complete detom* ; and passing- through the principal, or high street, ap- proached the chnrch. The bell was ringing for prayers and we entered with the congregation. For a village church, I hardly know a finer one than that of Arques : it having much in common with portions of the cathe- dral of Lincoln. The upper part of the outer walls, with the tower and roof of the nave, are however com- paratively modern ; but the interior, which is light and airy, maybe of the latter end ofthexiiith century.* This interior is rather capacious, and may vie with any simi- lar building-, attached to a village, which the province of Normandy (rich in ecclesiastical edifices) can boast of. We had no time to wait the commencement of the service, and indeed you will say we had already had a sufficient portion ; but, on quitting the church, to ascend the hill on which the castle stands, we passed a well- dressed young lady, with a servant behind her, who was hastening to prayers, and who entered the church with the clergyman, whom she overtook on the way. We had reason to be well satisfied with this excellent lady; for we found that, to preserve the old castle from utter destruction, she had purchased it of government for about seven thousand francs ; and by causing locks and other fastenings to be applied to the principal gates, she had secured it from the constant pillage * The Itin&aire de Rouen, 1816, p. 200, says, absurdly, that this church is of the xith century. It possessed formerly a bust of Henry IV., which is supposed to have been placed there after the famous battle of Arques gained by Henry over the Duke of Mayenne in 1589. The church was dedicated, according to the same authority, and with more truth, in 1257. DIEPPE. 29 which used to be carried on within — for no one thought of building, without demohshing a certain portion of the castle for materials. To the best of my recollec- tion, this lady's name is Barrois. She has certainly, in one of its very best senses, " deserved well of her country." The scite of the castle is admirable. Our approach was to the western extremity ; which, as you look down, brings the village and church of Arques in the back-ground. Mr. Lewis, inspired I suppose by the chaunt of the vespers, which we heard from our elevated station — took out his pencil, and made the following spirited little design. 30 DIEPPE. If the eye were to be considered as a correct judge, this venerable pile, composed of hard flint-stone, inter- mixed with brick, (but not in layers, after the Roman fashion of uniting- these two materials) would perhaps claim precedence, on the score of antiquity, over every other relic of the middle ages. A deep moat, now dry pasture land, with a bold acclivity before you, should seem to bid defiance, even in times of old, to the foot and the spear of the invader. There are circular towers (as the view shews) at the extremities, and a square ci- tadel or donjon within. Its area is also very extensive, and perhaps yet retains its pristine limits as in the time of William the Conqueror. The wars of Henry the Fourth with the League helped to add to the previous devastations; but, although one of the most ancient and decayed-looking places of fortification imaginable — and although, from the crumbling and broken outlines, and the shelving of the banks rising from the moat, you might expect it to yield within some few twenty years to the ravages of time — yet I question if it be not tough enough to outlive all the great great grand-children of the present beholders of it ! To the north, a good deal of earth has been recently thrown against the bases of the wall. The day harmonised admirably with the venerable object before us. The sunshine lasted but for a minute : when afterwards a gloom prevailed, and not a single catch of radiant light gilded any portion of the building. All was gray, and quiet, and of a sombre aspect, — and whati/ow, in your admiration of art, would call in perfectly " fine keeping." Perhaps there is no object which more powerfully excites meditation, and calls forth the finer feelings connected with thoughts DIEPPE. 31 upon the past, than that of an ancient, decayed, and magnificently-situated castle. But all is here hushed ; within and without. — Nor the harp of the minstrel, nor the clang of armour, nor the echoes of the horn, nor the uproar of the banquet — no, nor the invading nor the repelling foe — are now heard or distinguished ! . . but — It is time to wake out of this trance, and to pursue our journey homeward. We descended the hill, bade a long adieu to this venerable relic of the hardihood of other times, and quickened our pace towards Dieppe. As we gained upon the town, we began to discern groups of rustics, as well as of bourgeoises, assembling and mingling in the dance. The women never think of wearing bonnets ; and you have little idea how bril- liantly the red and blue* (the very colours of RafFaelle's Madonnas !) glanced backwards and forwards, amidst the trunks of the fruit trees, to the sound of the spirit- stirring violin. The high, stiff, starched cauchoise, with its broad flappers, gave the finishing stroke to the novelty and singularity of the scene; and to their credit be it spoken, the women were much more tidily dressed than the men. We soon became spectators at more than one place of festivity. Tlie couples are frequently female, for want of a sufficient number of beans ; but, whether correctly or incorrectly coupled, they dance with earnestness, if not with agility. No foolish tricks, or wanton mischief, ever disturbs the harmony of the scene. It was a picture a la Teniers, without its occa- sional grossness. "This then," said I to my companion, " is what I have so often heard of the sabbath-gambols of the French — and long may they enjoy them ! .... for * The blue gown and red petticoat ; or vice versa. 32 DIEPPE. they are surely better than the brutal orgies of a pot- house, or the fanatical ravings of the tabernacle." You will please to remember, my dear friend, that amidst these groups, we discovered some score faces which we had noticed the same morning in the cathedral ; and as you cannot convince a Frenchman, or a Frenchwo- man, that the evening of the sabbath may be better devoted to a quiet stroll abroad, or to the perusal of religious and instructive books at home, the mass of people had better be so occupied than ... do worse ! A late plain dinner, with our favourite vin ordinaire, recruited our strength and kept us in perfectly good humour with Dieppe. My companion, in the evening, made a sketch of the fille de chambre, — an important personage in my collection of costume — as you will observe from the representation of her, here enclosed.* She chose to put on " her best bib and tucker" upon the occasion — it being Sunday evening : so that you behold her to every possible advantage. I have reason to think that this costume, with very few and slight variations, has continued for several centuries .-f- The following and last day, spent at Dieppe, was as beau- tiful as that of our voyage thither. Mr. Lewis began at times with his pencil. He took a small bird's-eye view of the harbour, and would have made another drawing of a very picturesque character — were it not for the fishing boats which continued to crowd into * See the opposite Plate. The original thought it " un peu tr6p ag6e." f The dress of the sailors is the same as in the xivth century ; and so probably is that of the women. Tlie illuminations in Froissard and Monstrelet clearly gi\e us the Norman cauchoise. t - --.SJfTSv^'^'A, ---^ V ; "~ w ? .=" '^^-U^t^C i'-?i ? ^^/^"^A^l .#?®2^'?l£i ^' TlllE DE CjifAMBIlE dieppt:, . DIEPPE. 33 the bason, and, by their extended sails, to shut out the view. He was also equally unfortunate in his attempt at a sketch of the castle just above the town,* to the north-west, but from another cause. On com- mencing it, a centinel advanced, and brutally tore the leaf out of his book— telling him it was ' defendu.' He was surely a boor of a centinel, and had never danced on a Sunday evening ! To prohibit the drawing of an unfortified place is quite a piece of absurdity ; and a word to the Commandant would doubtless have equally led to the chastisement of the centinel, and the grat'^^- cation of the artist's wishes ... but " 9a ne vaut pas la peine!" and I essayed to comfort Mr. L. upon his mis- fortune. Upon the whole the French are rather jealous of the pencil of a British artist : for, on beginning the sketch of the harbour, I was obliged to muster up all the eloquence and logic I was master of, to persuade a custom-house officer and a corps of gens-cTarmes that it was " tout-a-fait une affaire pittoresque, et qui n'avoit aucun rapport a la guerre." A surly " hon !" was the only reply to my remonstrance ; but " bon" was cer- tainly preferable to another " defendu ! " The deportment of the Dieppois towards the English, is, upon the whole, rather gracious than otherwise; because the town profits by the liberality and love of expense of the latter. Yet the young ones, as soon as * It is built upon the scite of an old castle which was demolished at the end of the xiith century ; and the townsmen, fearing that it might be rendered an important position to the Leaguers, in the xvith cen- tury, proceeded to dismantle it. It was also materially injured in the following century. 34 DIEPPE. they can lisp, are put in training for pronouncing the G — d — ; and a few horribly-deformed and importunate beggars are for ever assailing the doors of the hotels. But beggary is nothing like so frightful an evil as I had anticipated. The general aspect of the town seems to indicate the poverty of the inhabitants ; their houses being too vast to be entirely occupied. The Boulevards, facing the new bason, left unfinished by Napoleon, or rather facing the range of meadows that run towards the village of Arques, might be advantageously occu- pied with houses ; but there is no speculation, and no love of picturesque, among the French. I should not be surprised, were the peace to continue a dozen years, (and God send it may, three times three dozen of years !) if a few adventurous English caused some more houses to be built, to be tenanted on easy terms, as a summer watering-place for those of their countrymen who can only muster up courage sufficient just to put their feet upon Gallic Ground. The immediate neigh- bourhood of Dieppe, and its proximity to Rouen and Paris, are inducements of no ordinary kind. Bonaparte seems to have been very anxious about the strengthening of the harbour ; the navigation into which is somewhat difficult and intricate. The sides of the walls, as you enter, are lofty, steep, and strong ; and raised batteries would render any hostile approach extremely hazardous to the assailants. There is no ship-building at this moment going on : the ribs of about half a dozen, half rotting, small mer- chant-craft being all that is discernible. But much is projected, and much is hoped from such projects. Dieppe has questionless many local advantages both by DIEPPE. 35 land and by sea ; yet it will require a long course of years to infuse confidence and beget a love of enter- prise. In spite of all the naval zeal, it is here exhibited chiefly as affording means of subsistence from the fish- eries. The army will always be the favourite, even at a sea- port. A regiment marched into the town on Monday evening. The men were intoxicated — and the officers not only partook of the general inebriety, but paraded the streets arm in arm with the common men. Tliis is equally a decoy and a disgrace — and dared not have been shewn at Versailles, or at Paris. I must not how- ever conclude my Dieppe journal without telling you that I hunted far and near for a good bookseller and some old books — but found nothing worth the search, except a well-printed old Rouen Missal, and a Terence by Badius Ascensms. The booksellers are supplied with books chiefly from Rouen; the local press being too contemptible to mention. In respect to ' tlOOfe raritic^' my countrymen had been beforehand with me ; and I was told strange anecdotes of their lucky trouvailles, and of their unlimited generosity. May this ever attend them ! 36 LETTER IV. ROUEN. APPROACH. BOULEVARDS. POPULATION. STREET SCENERY. Here I am, my excellent good friend, in the most extraordinary city in the world. One rubs one's eyes, and fancies one is dreaming-, upon being- carried through the streets of this old-fashioned place : or that, by some secret talismanic touch, we are absolutely mingling with human beings, and objects of art, at the com- mencement of the xvith century : so very curious, and out of the common routine of things, is almost every object connected with Rouen. But before I commence my observations upon the town, I must give you a brief sketch of ray journey thither. Previously to leaving Dieppe, we had obtained our regular circumstantial passports. No recruit was ever more exactly measured than were Mr. L. and myself ; and Linnaeus could not have written down the charac- teristics of a plant with more scrupulous accuracy than did the municipal officer survey and describe " Mes- sieurs les Anglois." You should know, in few words, that there is a printed list of the features ; so that the scribe has only to add the epithet in writing to each particular feature. We had bespoke our places in the cabriolet of the Diligence, which just holds three, tolerably comfort- able; provided there be a disposition to accommodate ROUEN. 37 each other. This cabriolet, as you have been often told, is a sort of a buggy, or phaeton seat, with a covering of leather, in the front of the coach. It is fortified with a stiff leathern apron, upon the top of which is a piece of iron, covered with the leather, to fasten firmly by means of a hook on the peqoendicular supporter of the head. There are stiffish leathern curtains on each side, to be drawn, if necessaiy, as a protection against the rain, &c. You lean upon the bar, or top of this leathern apron, which is no very uncomfortable resting-place. And thus we took leave of Dieppe, on the 4th day after our arrival there. As we were seated in the cabriolet, we could scarcely refrain from loud laughter at the novelty of our situation, and the grotesqueness of the convey- ance. Our postilion was a rare specimen of his species, and a perfectly unique copi/. He fancied himself, I sup- pose, rather getting " into the vale of years," and had contrived to tinge his cheeks with a plentifLd portion of rouge. His platted and powdered hair was sur- mounted with a battered black hat, tricked off with faded ribband : his jacket was dark blue velvet, with the insignia of his order upon his left arm. What struck us as not a little singular, his countenance was no very faint resemblance of that of Foltaire, when he might have been verging towards his sixtieth year. Most assuredly he resembled him in his elongated chin, and the sarcastic expression of his mouth. We rolled mer- rily along — the horses sometimes spreading, and some- times closing, according to the size of the streets through which we were compelled to pass. Nothing apparently can be more bungling than the management of the conveyance, in going down hill. ITiere is no such 38 ROUEN. thing as a drag-chain; and at times the whole weight of the machine seems to press upon the haunches of the wheel-horses, — who, without breeching, go staggering along, sometimes at right angles, sometimes almost in one continued strait line with each other, turning face to face. Tlie reins and harness are of cord ; which, however, keep together pretty well. The postilion endeavours to break the rapidity of the descent by conducting the wheels over piles of gravel or rubbish, which are laid at the sides of the road, near the ditch ; so that, to those sitting in the cabriolet, and overlook- ing the whole process, the effect, with weak nerves, is absolutely terrific. They stop little in changing horses, and the Diligence is certainly well managed ; and in general no accidents occur. We carried with us about fifty thousand francs of government money, and a cavalry soldier (one oi t\\Q gens-d'' armes) accompanied us, in consequence, all the way to Rouen. The road from Dieppe to Rouen is wide, hard, and in excellent condition. There are few or no hedges, but rows of apple-trees afford a sufficient line of de- markation. The country is open, and gently undulating ; with scarcely any glimpses of what is called forest- scenery, till you get towards the conclusion of the first stage. There are several sharp ascents and descents ; yet the conducteur does not request the passengers to get down and walk. Nothing particularly strikes you till you approach Malaunai, within about half a dozen miles of Rouen, and of course after the last change of horses. The environs of this beautiful village repay you for every species of disappointment, if any should have been experienced. The rising banks of a brisk ROUEN. 39 serpentine trout stream are studded with white houses, in which are cotton manufactories that appear to be carried on with spirit and success. Above these houses are hanging woods ; and though the early spring would scarcely have coated the branches with green in our own country, yet here there was a general freshness of verdure, intermingled with the ruddy blossom of the apple — altogether rejoicing the eye and delighting the heart. Occasionally there were delicious spots, which the taste and wealth of an Englishman would have embellished to every possible degree of advantage. But wealth, for the gratification of picturesque taste, is a superfluity that will not fall to the lot of the French. The Revolution seems to have drained their purses, as well as daunted their love of enterprise, and thinned their population. Along the road-side there were some few houses of entertainment ; and we observed the emptied cabriolet and stationaiy voiture, by the side of the garden^, where Monsieur and Madame, with their families, tripped lightly along the vistos, and smirked as John Bull saluted them! Moving vehicles, and numerous riding and walking groups, increased upon us, and every thing announced that we were approach- ing a great and populous city. Let me tell you, how- ever, that we had accomplished the last eight miles within an hour ; but during the preceding stages we had not exceeded five miles in the hour. Tlie approach to Rouen is indeed magnificent. I speak of the immediate approach ; after you reach the top of a considerable rise, and are stopped by the bar- riers. You then look down a strait, broad, and strongly paved road, liiied with a treble row of trees on each side. 40 ROUEN. As the foliage was not thickly set, we could discern, through the delicately-clothed branches, the tapering spire oitheCathedral, and the more massive tower of the Ahhaye de St. On en — with hanging gardens, and white houses, to the left — covering a richly cultivated ridge of hills, which sink, as it were into the Boulevards ; and which is called the Faubourg Cauchoise. Perhaps the Cathedral and St. Ouen are rather more in front ; yet, with the town, they incline somewhat to the left : the whole being built upon a slope. To the right, through the trees, you see the river Seine (hereof no despicable depth or breadth) covered with boats and vessels in motion : the voice of commerce, and the stir of indus- try, cheering and animating you as you approach the town. We were told that almost eveiy vessel which we saw (some of them of two hundred, and even of three hundred tons burden) was filled with brandy and wine. The lamps are suspended from the centre of long ropes, across the road ; and the whole scene is of a truly novel and imposing character. But how shall I convey to you an idea of what I experienced, as, turn- ing to the left, and leaving the broader streets which flank the quay, we began to enter the penetralia of this truly antiquated town. What narrow streets, what overhanging houses, what bizarre,* capricious * The French themselves acknowledge that the houses and streets are absolutely "frightful." I strove frequently to defend them on principles of picturesque taste, and from the association of ideas arising from antiquity — but I should hope the defects of my speech, rather than the weakness of my arguments, failed to produce the desired eflFect. In Zeillefs European Topography , 1655, &c. folio, there is a bird's-eye view of Rouen, of the date of 1620, [Rothomagvs, Rovan.] about two feet two inches in length, by ten inches in width. It shows ROUEN. 41 ornaments — what a mixture of modern with ancient art — what fragments or rather ruins, of old dehcately- the old stone bridge (now destroyed) with \wo of tlie central arches broken down — and therefore impassable. The walls and ramparts are entire, and the view appears to be taken from the south-east point. The hills surrounding it are thickly wooded. It exhibits but indifferent art, yet is a pleasing print. There is another plate im- mediately following it, of the date of 1655, where the bridge of boats appears to the east of the old stone bridge, nearly one-half of which latter is destroyed. This view is a ground plan : the walls, &c. are entire ; and the gardens, to the left of the western fauxbourgs^ appear rich and endless. When I was at Paris, I examined, as the Abb^ De la Rue advised me, the three volumes of Drawings and Prints relating to Normandy, which once belonged to De Boze, and are now to be found in the Bibl. du Roy. Of their general merit this is not the place to say a word ; but as connected with the preceding, and for the sake of juxta-position, it may be as well to notice a few more old prints of Rouen. There are three pretty etchings of the nuns of the old stone bridge by Israel Silvestre. A bird's-eye view of the town, pretty much in the style of that first above mentioned, after a painting by Georgius Hoefnagle. A man and woman are in the foreground. It is an oblong clever print. There is a duplicate of it. There is a large ground plan of Rouen, with a small view in the corner : likewise an oblong view in profile, as it were^ by Silvestre .• well engraved. Also a large bird's- eye view, from a position, nearer than the two preceding, — sold by H. Juillot —proche les grands Augustins au bout du pont neuf avec priu, ike. : a black and badly- engraved print. Several similar views not worth describing. There is an immense print, six feet, nine inches, by two feet in width, of Rouen and its ramparts, published by Jansen at Amsterdam in 1631, with letter-press beneath. The inscrip- tion above is in large white capital letters upon a black ground. It is useful for the detail ; but the effect is bad. There has been recently (1817) published a Carte Topographique de la Ville et des Fauxbourgs de Rouen ; being a ground plan of the whole. It is a large and handsome map, but perhaps too delicately executed 42 ROUEN. built Gothic churches — what signs of former and of modern devastation ! — what fountains, gutters, groups of never-ceasing men, women, and children, all gay, all occupied, and all apparently happy ! The Rue de la Grosse Horloge (so called from a huge, clumsy, anti- quated clock which goes across the street) struck us as not among the least singular streets of Rouen. Amazed, and half-bewildered, we turned floundering from street to street, with the eyes of the gazing mul- titude upon us, — " voila des Anglois ! " On reaching the office of the Diligence, we prepared to put our baggage in motion for the Hotel-Vatel, the favourite inn of the English. Porters appeared, with their hottes upon their backs ; and a burden of at least two hundred and fifty pounds was placed upon one of those machines, and marched away with, in all the triumph of conscious skill and strength. The hotte is well contrived, causing the principal weight of the burden to fall horizontally across the shoulders, in an upright position, which is infinitely preferable to the perpendicular pressure, from the English knot, upon the nape of the neck and shoulders In five minutes we were in the court-yard of the hotel, in the centre of which was a large newly-constructed public vehicle called a velocifere. The springs are enormous, but there is much good sense in the planning of the whole — and I thought that it savoured of British inge- nuity, before I was told of the springs being actually modelled after those of our own vehicles. for its size^ and the variety of objects which it embraces. It is never- theless very useful, and has materially assisted me in designating with accuracy the several places above mentioned. ROUEN. 43 I commenced settling our plans by securing rooms, and bespeaking board and lodging " according to art." The landlady, a civil little woman, soon convinced us that she was perfect mistress of her occupation, by an- ticipating many of our wants, and answering all our queries in a very good-humoured and satisfactory manner. The relics of a table d'hdte, hashed up in the French style, was not the most agreeable dinner we could have desired for our first meal — especially when five francs were charged for one re-boiled fowl enfiladed by sorel sauce ! However, here we are ; here we have been these two days ; and here we purpose staying till my particular objects of research shall have been ac- complished. In spite of their national antipathies, the French cannot but admit that in general " les Anglois sont bien bons et tres propres." On the evening of our arrival, we were soon saluted by a laquais de place — the leech-like hanger-on of every hotel — who begged to know if we would walk upon the Boule- vards. We consented ; turned to the right ; and, gra- dually rising, gained a considerable eminence. Again we turned to the right, walking upon a raised prome- nade ; while the blossoms of the pear and apple trees, within a hundred walled gardens, perfumed the air with their delicious fragrance. As we continued our route along the Boulevard Beauvoisine, we gained one, of the most interesting and commanding views ima- ginable of the city of Rouen — just at that moment lighted up by the golden rays of a glorious setting sun — which gave a broader and mellower tone to the shadows upon the Cathedral and the Ahhey of St. Ouen. The locality of Rouen renders it necessarily 44 ROUEN. picturesque, view it from what station you will. 'J'o convince you of this, examine the following sketch, made but yesterday — from nearly the same spot, only a little more elevated — by .the indefatigable graphic companion of my tour. ROUEN. 45 The population of Rouen should seem to be after the Chinese fashion : in other words, of an enormous extent. It is supposed to amount to full one hundred thousand souls. In truth, there is no end to the suc- cession of human beings. They swarm like bees, and like bees are busy in bringing home the produce of their industry. You have all the bustle and agitation of Cheapside and Cornhill ; only that the ever-moving scene is carried on within limits one-half as broad. Conceive Bucklersbury, Cannon-street, and Thames- street, — and yet you cannot conceive the narrow streets of Rouen — filled with the flaunting cauchoise,and echo- ing to the eternal tramp of the sabot. Here they are ; men, women, and children, all abroad in the very centre of the streets — alternately encountering the splashing of the gutter, and the jostling of their towns- men — while the swift cabriolet, or slow-paced cart, or thundering diligence, severs them, and scatters them abroad, only that they may seem to be yet more con- densely united. Mr. L. with the natural enthusiasm of his profession, becomes daily more in ecstacies with all around him . . . for myself, it is with difficulty I am persuaded that I am not living in the times of our Henry VIII. and of their Francis I. ; and am half dis- posed to inquire after the residence of George Tailleur the printer — the associate, or foreign agent, of your favourite Pynson* You will call this epistle a rare rhapsody : but let it pass. To-morrow, and a few fol- lowing days, .... to fresh fields and pastures new . For " fields" you must read churches ; and for " pastures" * See the Bif^liographical Decameron, vol. ii. p. 137, 8. VOL. I. D ^ 46 ROUEN. the public library, booksellers' shops, and printers' offices. A thousand times farewell. P. S. I cannot refrain from adding a postscript. Not- withstanding all those tonneaus cCeau de vie and du vin ordinaire, of which I spoke in the body of this letter, we have been here upwards of forty-eight hours, and have not yet encountered a drunken person. Their brandy-shops (here, as well as at Dieppe) are however as numerous as our pot-houses. 47 LETTER V. ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. THE CATHEDRAL. MONUMENTS. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. THE ABBEY OF ST. OUEN. THE CHURCHES OF ST. MACLOU, ST. VINCENT^ ST. VIVIEN, ST. GERVAIS, AND ST. PAUL. I HAVE now made myself pretty well acquainted with the locale of Rouen. How shall I convey to you a summary, and yet a satisfactory, description of it ? It cannot be done. Let me prose away, then, as I list — and forgive all the minuteness, and even tautology, of detail which you may encounter. You love old churches, old books, and relics of ancient art. These be my themes, therefore : so fancy yourself either strolling leisurely with me arm in arm, in the streets, or sitting at my elbow, conning over the marvellous things that this city contains. First for the Cathe- dral : — for what traveller of taste does not doff his bonnet to the mother church of the town through which he happens to be travelling; — or in which he takes up a temporary abode? You may remember that I gave you a glimpse of this Cathedral in my last letter, as we descended from the barriers down the pav^, towards the city. At that time only its two end towers, and central spire-crowned tower, were visible. Now let us approach it in good earnest. The west- front,* always the ybrfe of the architect's skill, strikes * A view of this west front will be found in Mr, Cotman's Norman Antiquities. ^ 48 ROUEN. you as you go down, or come up, the principal street ; or La Rue des Carmes, which seems to bisect the town into equal parts. A small open space, (which how- ever has been miserably encroached upon by petty shops) called the Flower-garden, is before this western front — so that it has some little breathing" room in which to expand its beauties to the wondering eye of the beholder. In my poor judgment, this western front has very few elevations comparable with it* — even including those of Lincoln and York. It may pos- sibly want the severe, simple, breadth of the former ; but it unites vastness of outline with minuteness of detail in a very extraordinary manner. Tlie orna- ments, especially upon the three porches, between the two towers, are numerous, rich, and for the greater part even yet entire : — in spite of the Calvinists-j-, the French revolution, and time. Among the lower and smaller basso relievos upon these porches, is the sub- ject of the daughter of Herodias dancing beforeHerod. She is manoeuvering on her hands, her feet being up- * few elevations comparable with if.] It is about 180 English feet in width, by about 250 in the highest part of its elevation. The plates which I saw at Mr, Frere's, bookseller, upon the Quai de Paris, from the drawings of Langlois, were very inadequate representations of the originals. f in spite of the Calvinists] The ravages committed by the Calvinists throughout nearly the whole of the towns in Normandy, and especially in the cathedrals, towards the year 1560, afford melancholy proofs of the effects of religious animosities — however real, or imaginary, might have been the provocations experienced. But the Calvinists were* always a bitter and ferocious sect. Pommeraye, in his quarto volume, Histoire de VEglise Cathedrale de Rouen, 1686, has devoted nearly one hundred pages to an account of Calvinistic depredations : p. 86- 3 57. Farin is necessarily brief. ROUEN. 49 wards. To the right, the decapitation of St. John is taking- place. Of the two towers, at the western extremity, on look- ing- at the cathedral, that to the left, or the northern tower, is very mnch tlie older — perhaps of the early part of the xiith centnry, if not of the latter part of the xith.* It wants, however, the elegance of the opposite, or sonthern tower, which I imagine to be of the xivth centnry; bnt of which the npper part is clearly of the sixteenth. Before I take you into the cathedral, you must just step on each side to obtain a view of the transept doors. They are both extremely elaborate in their sculpture, but the exterior approach to the northern is narrow and confined — little frequented — and half choked with every species of revolting* nuisance. The southern transept makes amends for the defects of its opposite neighbour. The space before it is devoted to a sort of vegetable market : curious old houses flank this space : and the ascent to the door, but more especi- ally the curiously sculptured porch itself, with the open spaces in the upper part — light, fanciful, and striking to a degree — produce an effect as pleasing as it is extra- ordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of suppli- ants, going in and coming out — the worn pavement, and the frittered ornaments, in consequence — seem to * The author of the Description Historique de Notre Dame de Rouen, 1816, 8vo. p. 12, 13, (judiciously compiled from the larger works of Pommeraye and Farin) assigns the year 1100 as that of the com- mencement of the building of this tower. He seems to think it pro- bable that it was built upon the scite of the ancient tower erected by St. Romanus, about the year 633. The upper part of the tower is however of the end of the xvth. century. 50 ROUEN. convince you that the ardour and activity of devotion are almost equal to that of business. It was in front of this south transept, for five successive days, sitting within the chamber of a miserable entresol, (over what in England we should call a liquor-shop) that Mr. Lewis made the enchanting drawing which ac- companies this dispatch.* As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps, you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and at the lightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. By a gallery, I mean a sort of open work, or passage left be- tween the upper ornamental arches and the solid walls; This continues throughout the choir also. Perhaps the nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large tower is beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massive clustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference ; but on casting your eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless divi- sion of the choir from the nave by what is called a Gre- cian screen : and the interior of the transepts has under- gone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit your attention and commendation. I know you will be anxious to have an account oi monuments, stain- ed glass, and of all the et ceteras of cathedral accom- paniments. But remember, I am not only not an archi- tectural antiquary, but, in order to satisfy your wishes on this head, you must absolutely read professional treatises — till the enterprising and well-directed taste * Seethe opposite platb. M. Cotman intends publishing a portion of the same subject j upon a larger scale, as an etching. ROUEN. 51 of Mr. Britton send some British artist over to do jus- tice to the manifold beauties of this venerable building. Yet the drawings and etchings of M. Cotman, of which I heard much from the inhabitants, may possibly render the enterprise of Mr. Britton useless. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, upon entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral ; of a date little less ancient than that of the northern tower, before mentioned. It contains by much the finest specimens of stained glass — of the early part of the xvith centuiy. The capitals of the pillars are of a twelfth century aspect — for I dread the chastisement of our friend N****** if I carry them only into the last ten years of the eleventh ! There is also some beautiful stained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,^ behind the choir ; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being composed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost all the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been made among the stained- glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists. Respecting the Monuments, I have no time, and less inclination, to be copiously minute : never having possessed that patient spirit of tomb-stone chronicling which is painfully evident even in the pages of some of * This chapel is about ninety-five English feet in length, by thirty in width, and sixty in heighth. The sprawling painting by Philippe de Champagne^ at the end of it, has no other merit than that of covering so many square feet of wall. The architecture of this chapel is of the xivth century : the stained glass windows are of the latter end of the xvth. On going the circuit of the cathedral, one is surprised to count not fewer than twenty-Jive chapels. 52 ROUEN. our best antiquaries. Yet you ought to know that the famous RoLLo* lies in one of the side-chapels, further * the famous Hollo.] M. Gilbert, the author of the Description, &c. (mentioned at page 49, ante) says that both Rollo and his son William were buried in the south side of the cathedral, and that their remains were discovered about the year 1200, on building the present choir— and that it was Rollo who built the ancient cathedral — " according to Ordericus Vitalis and other contemporaneous historians," p. 56. But it must be observed that Vitalis, (as may be seen in Duchesne's Hist. Normann. Script, p. 459) says not a word about it : and from the pages of the Neustria Pia, (9,300-1) it should seem that Rollo was rather partial to the Abbey of St. Ouen. He died in 917- On the opposite side-chapel is the tomb of his son William Longespee, who was taken off treacherously in 944, and his remains carried for interment to the cathedral. The monumental inscriptions of these are as follow : Pommeraye (p. 68) having given the more ancient ones. Rollo. William. Hie positus est Hie positus est Rollo GuUlelmus Dictus Longua Spata Norraanii ast territl Vastatae RoUonis Filius, Restitutae Dux Normaimise Primus Dux Conditor Pater Proditorie Oceisus dccccxxxxiv. A Francone Archiep. Rotom. Ossa Ipsius in veteri Sanctuario, Baptizatus Anno dccccxiii. Ubi nunc est Caput Navis Primum Obiit Anno dccccxvii. Condita, Translate Altari, Hie Ossa ipsius in veteri Sanctuario CoUocata sunt k B. Manrilio Nunc capite Navis Primum Archiepisc. Rotom. Condita, Anno mlxiii. Translate Altari, CoUocata Sunt k B. Maurilio Archiep. Rotom. An. mlxiii. But towards the end of the choir, at the back of the high altar, are monumental inscriptions yet more interesting to Englishmen. The brother of Richard I. Richard I. himself, and John Duke of Bedford. As they are short I shall give them : Richard I. Henry the Younger. Cor HicJacet RiCHARDi Regis Anglic Henricus Junior ROUEN. 53 down to the right, upon entering- ; although his monu- ment cannot be older than the xiiith century. As you Normamiise Duds Richardi Regis Angliae Cor Leonis Dicti Cor Leonis Dicti Frater Obiit Anno Obiit Anno mcxcix. mclxxxiii. John Duke of Bedford. Ad dextrum Altaris Latus Jacet lOANNES Dux BeTFORDI Normanniae pro Rex Obiit Anno MCCCCXXXV. The Duke's tomb will be seen engraved in Sandford's Genealogical HiS' lory, p. 314 ; which plate^ in fact^ is the identical one used by Ducarel ; who had the singularly good fortune to decorate his Anglo-Norman Antiquities without any expense to himself. The above is the famous Duke of Bedford^ of bibliomaniacal cele- brity. Consult for one minute the Bibl. Decameron, vol. i. p. cxxxvi. There is a curious chapter in Pommeraye's Histoire de VEglise Cathe- drale de Rouen, p. 203, respecting the Duke's taking the habit of a canon of the cathedral. He attended, with his first wife, Anne of Bur- gundy, and threw himself upon the liberality and kindness of the monks, to be received by them as one of their order : " il les prioit d'etre re^eu parmy eux comme un de leurs frferes, et d'avoir tons les jours distribu- tion de pain et de vin, et pour marque de fraternite d'etre A^etu du sur- pUs et de I'aumusse : comme aussi d'etre associe, luy et sa trfes gene- reuse et tres illustre Spouse, aux suffrages de leur compagnie, et ^ la participation de tons les biens qu'il plaira k Dieu leur donner la grace d'operer," p. 204. A grand procession marked the day of the Duke's admission into the monkish fraternity. The whole of this, with the. Duke's superb presents to the sacristy, and his dining with his Duchess, and receiving their portion of ''eight loaves and four gallons of wine," are distinctly narrated by the minute Pommeraye. Sandford, after teUing us that he thinks there " never was any por- traiture" of the Duke, thus sums up his character. " He was justly accounted one of the best generals that ever blossomed out of the royal stem of Plant AGENST. His valour was not more terrible to his enemies 54 ROUEN. approach the Chapel of the f^irgin, you pass by an ancient monument, to the left, of a recumbent Bishop, reposing behind a thin pillar, within a vastly-pretty ornamented Gothic arch. To the eye of a tasteful anti- quary, this cannot fail to have its due attraction. Wliile however we are treading upon hallowed ground, ren- dered if possible more sacred by the ashes of the illus- trious dead, let us move gently onwards towards the Chapel of the Virgin — behind the choir. See what bold and brilliant monumental figures are yonder, to the right of the altar ! How gracefully they kneel, and how devoutly they pray ! They are the figures of the Car- dinals d'Amboise* — uncle and nephew : — the former, than his memory honourable ; for (doubtful whether with more glory to him J or to the speaker) King Lewis the Eleventh, being counselled by certain envious persons to deface his tomb (wherein with him, saith one, was buried all English men's good fortune in France) used these indeed princely words : * \^^hat honour shall it be to us, or you, to break this monument, and to puU out of the ground the bones of Him, whom, in his life time, neither my father nor your progenitors, with aU their puissance, were once able to make flie a foot backwarde ? who, by his strength, policy and wit, kept them all out of the principal dominions of France, and out of this noble duchy of Normandy ? Wherefore, I say first, God save his Soul 3 and let his body now lie in rest, which, when he was aUve, would have disquieted the proudest of us all. And for THIS Tomb, I assure you it is not so worthy or convenient as his honour and acts have deserved.'" p. 314-5, Ed. I707. * the Cardinals d'Amboise.j France can boast of few brighter orna- ments of church and of state than were these Cardinals : both of the Christian name of George. The uncle died in 1510 : the nephew about thirty years afterwards. It was the uncle, minister of Louis XIL who diverted the rivers of Robec and Auhette so as to pass through the city of Rouen for the purpose of dyeing and manufacturing woollen cloths. He also caused to be built, at his own expense, the whole of the facade of the west front, between the towers^ running over the ancient porches ROUEN. 55 minister of Louis XII. and (wiiat does not necessarily follow^ but what ^ves him an infinitely higher claim — ''full (says Gilbert) of the most beautiful filagree-looking work." The magnificent tomb, above mentioned, was executed at the charge and cost of the nephew, and finished in 15^2 The names of the artists employed upon it are, unfortunately, unknown. It is about twenty-three feet high, by seventeen in length ; and displays the following inscrip- tion : PASTOR ERAM CLERI, POPULI PATER, AUREA SESE LILIA SUBDEBANT, QUERCUS ET IPSA MIHI. MORTUUS EN lACEO, MORTE EXTINGUUNTUR HONORES : AT VIRTUS MORTIS NESCIA, MORTE VIRET. " This svmiptuous monument was erected in the year 1522, by George d'Amboise, the nephew, when he was only Archbishop of Rouen, and had no great expectation of obtaining the purple; so that his statue, which was at that time placed on the mausoleum, represented hun dressed in his archiepiscopal habit : but as soon as he had procured a cardinal's hat, he ordered his statue to be taken down, and replaced by that which we now see. This m-ausoleum is said to have been seven years in making." Ducarel; p. 19. I wish Ducarel had stated his authority for this anecdote. The word " quercus," in the above inscrip- tion, alludes to Pope Julius II. who was of the house of Rover a : it is the Italian word latinised. Perhaps the three greatest ministers which France ever possessed, were Amboise, Sully, and Colbert, Voltaire, who always loved a sneer at churchmen, says, that if Amboise had but o?ie benefice in his own diocese, the whole Kingdom of France served him for a second! It may have been so; for the Archbishop died immensely rich — leaving (according to the authors of the Gallia Chris- tiana, vol. xi. col. 96,) not less than 300,000 crowns (aureorum, qu. ?) behind him — but then " he made the poor his heirs, and willed that they should enjoy every thing which he had accumulated by means of his archiepiscopal, or other, revenues." Pope Julius II. pretended that Amboise had no right, as a churchman, to leave such an immense pro- perty behind him : but the King (Louis XII.) was of a different opinion; and, on the other hand, forbade the interference of the Pope in the dis- position of private property. The Archbishop's improvements in the 56 ROUEN. upon the gratitude of posterity) the restorer and beau- tifier of the glorious building in which you are contem- plating his figure ! This splendid monument is entirely of black and white marble, of the early part of the six- teenth century. The figures just mentioned are of white marble, kneeling upon cushions, beneath a rich canopy of Gothic fret-work. They are in their professional robes ; their heads are bare, exhibiting the tonsure, with the hair in one large curl behind. A small whole-length figure of St. George, their tutelaiy saint, is below them, in gilded Cathedral alone shewed the liberality and munificence of his cha- racter. His letters must be interesting j and especially those to Francis de PatJa (of the order of the Minimes, to which order the Cardinal was much attached), of whom he was very fond. The Cardinal died in his fiftieth year only 5 and his funeral Avas graced and honoured by the pre- sence of his royal master. Guicciardini calls him " the oracle and right arm of Louis." Of eight brothers, whom he left behind, four attained to the episcopal rank. His nephew succeeded him as Archbishop. See also Historia Genealogica Magnalum Francice ; vol. vii. p. 129 : quoted in the work last mentioned. It was during the archiepiscopacy of the successor of the nephew of Amboise — namely, that of Charles of Bourbon — that the Calvinistic persecution commenced. " Tunc vero coepit ci vitas, dioecesis, univer- saqueproAdncia lamentabilem in modum conflictari, saevientibus ob reli- gionis dissidia plusquam civihbus bellis," &c. But then the good Arch- bishop, however bountiful he might have been towards the poor at Roncevalles, (when he escorted Philip II. 's first wife Elizabeth, daughter of Henry II. to the confines of Spain, after he had married her to that wretched monarch) should not have inflamed the irritated minds of the Calvinists, by burning alive, in 1559, John Cottin, one of their most eminent preachers ; by way of striking terror into the rest ! . .Well might the Chronicler observe, as the result, " novas secta ilia in dies acquirebat vires." About 1560-2 the Calvinists got the upper hand; and repaid the Catholics with a vengeance ! Charles of Bourbon died in 1590 : so that he had an arduous and agitated time of it. ROUEN. 57 marble : and the whole base, or lower frieze, of the monument is surrounded by six delicately sculptured females, about three feet high, emblematic of the vir- tues for which these cardinals were so eminently dis- tinguished. Take one — as a specimen — representing Charity. The cross and the heart were mutilated during the Revolution. These figures again are flanked by eight smaller ones, placed in carved niches ; while above them, in turn, are the twelve Apostles, not less beau- tifully executed. 58 ROUEN. On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and liberality — and with one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of the deceased — let us fancy we hear the sound of the great bell from the south- west tower . . .called Amboise Tower* . . . erected, both * called Amboise Towek.] You can never approach the Cathedral without being teased by a half-dozen ragged-coated little rogues, who importune you " to mount the tower," But the Great Tom of France no longer exists there. This bell was broken in the year 1786, on the arrival of Louis XVI. at Rouen ; and during the revolutionary period of 1793 it was conveyed to Romilly, for the purpose of being melted into cannon. Yet fragments of it were transported to the mint at Paris, for the sake of striking a few medals from it. These medals are of the rarest possible occurrence. Millin, in his Hist. Medaillique de la Revolu- tion Fran^aise, Paris, 1808, 8vo. has engraved the two sides of one. The English are fond of the histories of great bells ; and I shall give a very brief one of the present. It was cast in 1501, under the auspices of the first Cardinal d' Amboise, by one Jean le Massox, or Machon ; who, the story goes, died of joy on having succeeded in the attempt, and was buried at the end of the nave under a small tomb, with a bell sculptured upon it. The following were the verses upon his tomb, before the Revolution had destroyed both : Cy-dessous gist Jehan le Machon, De Chartres, homme defachon, Leqiiel fondist Georges d' Amboise, Qui trente-siw mille livre poise. Mil cinq cens un,jour tfaoust deuxiesme. Puis mourust le vingt et uniesme. This unfortunately-sensitive artist never lived to hear the sound of the bell which he had manufactured ; for it was not rung until the 16th of February, 1503, by sixteen men. See Pommeraye, p. 50. 1686, folio. The following was the quatrain, in Gothic letters, which was cut upon the bell itself • 3!fe 0ui0 nommce (Scorscs Tj'amlioise, £Iiui hizn ttente^stjc mille poise : <&t cil qui bien me poiiserat 3Duarante mille t troubera. ROUEN. 59 the bell and the tower, by the uncle and minister d'Amboise. How the tone goes to one's heart! How the nave and the choir reverberate its echoes ! 'Tis delusion all ; a mere cheat of the imagination. But know, my dear friend, that there was once a bell, (and the largest in Europe, save one) which used to send forth its sound, for three successive Centuries, from the said tower. This bell was broken about thirty years ago, and was destroyed in the ravages of the immedi- ately succeeding years.* The south-west tower remains and the upper part of the central tower, with the whole of the lofty wooden spire : — the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men of whom such honourable meniioa has been made. Considering that this spire is very lofty, and composed of wood, it is surprising that it has not Below these were sixteen hexameter and pentameter verses. The dia- meter of the bell was nearly eleven feet English. The enormous size of the clapper (weighing 1838 lbs.) is said to have been the cause of the original fracture. The knob of this clapper, yet in existence at the door of a blacksmith of Deville, a village near Rouen, is seventeen inches thick. It follows that this bell, although smaller than that at Moscow, was the largest in the world which was placed in a tower and sounded. It may be worth further remarking, that this tower goes by the name of the Butter Tower. In other words, the Pope permitted the town's- folk and country people, who had contributed by liberal donations to its re-edification, to sell butter and milk in the market-place during Lent. * The choir was formerly separated from the surrounding chapels, or rather from the space between it and the chapels, by a superb brass grating, full of the most beautiful arabesque ornaments — another testi- mony of the magnificent spirit of the Cardinal and Prime Minister of Louis XII. : whose arms, as well as the figure of his patron, St. George, were seen in the centre of every compartment The Revolution has not left a vestige behind ! 60 ROUEN. been destroyed by tempest, or accident from lightning.* The taste of it is rather capricious than beautiful. But I have not yet done with the monuments, or rather have only commenced the account of them. Examine yonder recumbent figure, to the left of the altar, opposite the splendid monument upon which I have just been dilating. It is lying upon its back, with a ghastly expression of countenance, representing the moment when the last breath has escaped from the body. It is the figure of the Grand Seneschal de Breze,'!^ — Governor of Rouen, and husband of the celebrated Diane de Poictiers — that thus claims our attention. This figure is quite naked, \ying upon its back, with the right hand placed upon the stomach, but in an action which indicates life — and therefore is in bad taste, as far as truth is concerned ; for the head being * It has, however, undergone great changes and reparations. This central tower, with the superincumbent spire, displays the architecture of the xiiith, xivth, and xvth centuries. From bottom to top it is four hundred and thirty English feet in height. The cock is fixed upon a slender base of only six inches ; yet it measures three feet and a half in length. It is supposed to be precisely parallel with the top of Mont St. Catharine. Let me add, that the whole length of the cathedral is about four hundred and forty feet ; and the transept about one hundred and seventy-five, Enghsh measure. The height of the nave is about ninety, and of the lantern one hundred and sixty-eight feet, English. The length of the nave is two hundred and twenty-eight feet. f the Grand Seneschal De Breze'.] He died in 1531. Both the ancient and yet existing inscriptions are inserted by Gilbert, from Pommeraye and Farin, and formerly there was seen, in the middle of the monument, the figure of the Seneschal habited as a Count, with all the insignia of his dignity. But this did not outlive the Revolution. ROUEN. 61 fallen back, much shrunken, and with a ghastly ex- pression of countenance — indicating- that some time has elapsed since it breathed its last — the hand could not rest in this position. The cenotaph is of black marble, disfigured by the names of idle visi- tors who choose to leave such impertinent memorials behind! The famous Goujon is supposed to be the sculptor of the figure, which is painfidly clever, but it strikes me as being too small. At any rate, the arms and body seem to be too strong and fleshy for the shrunken and death-stricken expression of the counte- nance. Above the Seneschal, thus prostrate and life- less, there is another and a very clever representation of him on a smaller scale ; as the following copy (sup- plied from an etching by an ingenious female) evi- dently proves. .|4 62 ROUEN. On each side of this figure (which has not escaped serious injury) are two females in white marble ; one representing the Virgin, and the other Diana of PoiCTiERS :* they are little more than half the size of * Diana of Poictiebs.] — Again mention made of this extraor- dinary woman!? (See the Bibliographical Decameron, vol. ii. p. 486, &c.) The other figure, with a child in its arms, supposed to be the Virgin, is by some with more propriety thought to be the nurse of the Seneschal. She is in the act of giving nourishment to a child, and the child is considered to be no less a personage than the Seneschal himself. In Pommeraye's time (about the year 1680) there used to be a number of votive gifts ''^ presented by the piety of the faithful." These have been all stolen. Besides the two figures of the Virgin or Nurse, and Diana, there are, by the side of the equestrian statue, female figures representing the four virtues Prudence, Glory, Victory, and Faith. To her honour it must be mentioned, that Diana was exceedingly liberal in her presents to the Cathedral. I regretted that I had not an opportunity of visiting even the scite only of the Chateau d'Anet, the residence of that extraordi- nary woman — especially as it was near Dreux, in the neighbourhood of Rouen — but I was deterred by the assurance that not a vestige of it re- mained ; the whole having been broken up and appropriated during the revolution. Gilbert quotes the verses upon this castle by Voltaire, in his Henriade, II voit les murs d'Anet, batis aux bords de I'Elure ; Lui-meme en ordonna la superbe structure. and refers to the Anecdotes, S^c, des Reines et Regentes de France, 1776, vol. iv. p. 456. Brantome may be advantageously consulted ; as will be acknow- ledged on reading the smart and lively account of Diana in the Vlllth. chapter of the 1st volume of [Sir Nathaniel] WraxaWs Memoirs of the Kings of France; 1777, Svo. an amusing, and now uncommon perform- ance. In Zeillefs Topography of Gaul, forming three volumes out of the sixteen in folio, of his views of the principal towns in Europe, 1650, &c., there is a bird's eye view of the Chateau d'Anet, from which it appears to have been, even at that time, in every respect magnificent ROUEN. 63 life. The whole is in the very best style of the sculp- ture of the time of Francis I. These precious speci- and complete. A kind of heavy portal entrance, in the middle, (like that which may be now seen at the late Colonel Serjeantson's mansion, near Cuckfield, in Sussex,) conducted you into a mansion containing three sides of a sort of college quadrangle — the ends, upon entering, having round towers, of a castellated structure. Immediately behind the house was a sumptuous garden, laid out in formal flower beds, and flanked, apparently, by offices and garden houses. Two foun- tains played in the middle. Behind the garden, again, there was a large smooth meadow or lawn, with a piece of water in the middle — the whole surrounded by trees. On each side of the house, was a large court, surrounded with offices for servants. In the centre of each court a large fountain played ; having a stag in the centre of one, and a statue of Diana in that of the other. To the right of the right hand court, appears what may be called stables — or the menagerie of Diana: and behind this, was a thick wood or forest. Upon ahiU, to the left of the meadow behind the garden, was a church and a cru- cifix by the side of it. Everything wears the aspect of a royal resi- dence. Sir N, Wraxall observes that it was respectable even when he saw it in 1774. It must be admitted that Diana, when she caused the verses Indwulsa tibi quondam etfidissima conjux Vtfuit in thalamo, sic erit in tumulo. to be engraved upon the tomb of the Seneschal, might well have " moved the bile" of the pious Benedictine Pommeraye, and have ex- cited the taunting of Ducarel, when they thought upon her subse- quent connexion, in the character of mistress, with Henry the Second of France. Henry however endeavoured to compensate for his indis- cretions by the pomp and splendor of his processions. Rouen, so cele- brated of old for the entries of Kings and Nobles, seems to have been in a perfect blaze of splendor upon that of the Lover of Diana — " qui fut plus magnifique que toutes celles qu'on avoit vu jusqu'alors :" see Far ins Hist, de la Ville de Rouen, vol. i.p. 121, where there is a sin- gularly minute and gay account of all the orders and degrees of citi- zens — (with their gorgeous accoutrements of white plumes, velvet 64 ROUEN. mens of art, as well as several other similar remains, were carried away during the revolution, to a place of hats, rich brocades, and curiously wrought taffetas) of whom the pro- cessions were composed. It must have been a perfectly dramatic sight, upon the largest possible scale. It was from respect to the character or the memory of Diana, that so many plaister-representa- tions of her were erected on the exteriors of buildings : especially of those within small squares or quadrangles. In wandering about Rouen, I stumbled upon several old mansions of this kind. May I be forgiven for an extension of this note ? — already perhaps somewhat unconscionably long. De Thou, who was a little boy, about six years of age, when he was present at the tilting match be- tween Henry II. and Mongomery (so fatal to the former,*) seems to have been unusually enflamed against Diana : and certainly he lived near enough to the time in which she ruled her royal lover, to gather evidence which would necessarily escape a later historian. He cal^s her a woman of a proud and weak understanding j" adding, that " it was thought she ruled Henry by means of philtres and charms, and that she preserved her unbounded influence over him, till the close of his life. All things (continues he) were ruled by her authority; and Montmorenci himself submitted to the veriest acts of meanness to in- gratiate himself with her — " pessimo exemplo summi imperii ad im- potentis foeminse libidinem prostituti." A little onward he says that * " Je vis blesser le Roi Henry II. par Mongommery. La Reine mere fit d6molir les Tournelles pour ce fait : lieu ainsi appelle, a cause d'un vieux Chateau, ou il y avoit beaucoup de tournelles." See the Thuana, p. 199 : attached to De Thou's Hist, sui temp. De Thou treats this duel (in which the stump of Mongomery's lance penetrated tlie eye and fractured the skidl of Henry) much too seriously. A various reading has it — " regem, in gre- garii militis modum, dignitatis suae obhtum, inter ludos jocosque periisse." But surely it was only the indulgence of a high chivalrous feeling, common to that age — and which had been in some sort practised by Henry's own father with our Henry VIII. Besides, it must be remembered that Mongomery, the ablest champion of the lance in Christendom, was compelled unwillingly to fight. De Thou says that Henry's death was predicted by Luca Guaricus, a mathematician and conjuror. See his History ; vol. i. p. 762-3. ROUEN. 65 safety. The choir is spacious, and well adapted to its purposes ; but who does not grieve to see the Arch- bishop's stall, once the most curious and costly, of the Gothic order, and executed at the end of the xvth cen- tury, transformed into a stately common-place canopy, supported by columns of chestnut-wood carved in the Grecian style ? The Library, which used to terminate the north transept, is — not gone — but transferred. A fanciful stair-case, with an appropriate inscription,* the King " effusfe Annam diligebat" — and that Diana was equally " mistress of the royal stud and palace." Hist. Sui Temporis : edit. Buckley, vol. i. p. 108-9. At p. 767 he thus describes her downfall: .... Deserted in her utmost need By those her former bounty fed ! . . . . " Valentina [she was the Duchesse de Valentinois] ignominiose aula exigitur, regia gaza ac gemmis ingentis pretii, quas ilia penes se habebat;, non sine exprobratione repetitis : quod insigne fluxae auli- corum fidei testimonium fuit. Nam ex iis omnibus, quos, dum rerum potiretur, multos sed fere indignos ad honores evexerat, nemo unus repertus, qui jacentis et a suis relictae fortunam sublevaret, prsevalente adversus beneficia privata odio publico." vol. i. 767- * with an appropriate inscription.] The inscription is this : Si quern sancta tenet meditandi in lege voluntas. Hie poterit residens, sacris intendere libi'is. Pommeraye has rather an interesting gossipping chapter [Chap, xxii.] '' De la Bibliotheque de la Cathedrale:" p. 163: to which FRANfois DE HarlaY;, about the year 1630, was one of the most munificent benefactors. Ducarel thus notices this library, as it appeared in his time. " The Library belonging to the cathedral is a noble gallery, one hundred feet in length by twenty feet in breadth-; but hath not a sufficient quantity of light. It is furnished with a great number of printed books, and some indifferent pictures of its benefactors. Free access is allowed to all persons desirous of study- ing there, from eight of the clock in the morning till twelve, and from two till five in the afternoon, of every day in the week except Sundays and holidays j" p. 23. VOL. I. . E 66 ROUEN. yet attest that it was formerly an appendage to that part of the edifice. Before I quit the subject of the cathedral, I must not fail to tell you something relating to the rites performed therein. Let us quit therefore the dead for the living. Of course we saw here, a repetition of the ceremonies observed at Dieppe ; but previously to the feast of the Ascension^ we were also present at * feast of the Ascension."] On this day there was formerly a very singular ceremony observed — which has now gone to decay. At least none such took place during my stay — although the prisons did not want even capital criminals. It may perhaps be worth while to refer the reader to Ducarel/ p. 23, for a copious account of this ceremony. The authors of the Gallia Christiana, vol. xi. col. 3, &c. notice the privilege, enjoyed by the Chapter, of rescuing one condemned male- factor from decapitation, upon the feast of the Ascension ; and at col. 12 it is again somewhat more particularly mentioned. Speaking of the victory gained by the Saint over the Devil — and especially of the " Draconis ingentis simulacrum, quasi imago idololatrize pros- tratse" — they take care to warn us, in a note, that the Devil, or the Dragon of St. Romanus was " not a real dragon," but only a symbol of idolatry — like those dragons attached to the figures of St. Marcellus and St. Margaret. Evelyn, who visited the cathedral of Rouen in 1644, says that " the quire had behind it a create dragon paynted on the wall 3 which they said had don much harme to the Inhabitants till vanquished by St. Romain, their archbishop ; for which there is an annual proces- sion." Life and Writings of John Evelyn; vol. i. p. 56, edit. 1818. No traces of this precious piece of fresco painting now remain. Indeed 1 do not find it even noticed by Pommeraye, who published upon the cathedral about forty years afterwards. St. Romain, or Romanus, was the first Archbishop of Rouen. In the Thesmirus Novus Anecdotorum of Martene and Durand, vol. iii. col. 1653, &c. there is a metrical life of this archiepiscopal Saint. ROUEN. 67 the confirmation of three hundred boys and three hundred girls, each very neatly and appropriately dressed, in a sort of sabbath attire, and each holding a lighted wax taper in the hand. The girls were dressed in white, with white veils ; and the rich lent veils to those who had not the means of purchasing them. The cathedral, especially about the choir, was crowded to excess. I hired a chair, stood up, and gazed as ear- nestly as the rest. The interest excited among the parents, and especially the mothers, was very striking. " Voila la petite — quelle a I'air charmant ! — le petit ange ! " A stir is made . . . they rise . . . and approach, in the most meiasured order, the rails of the choir . . . There they deposit their tapers. Tlie priests, very numerous, extinguish them as dexterously as they can ; and the whole cathedral is perfumed with the mixed scent of the wax and frankincense. The boys, on ap- proaching the altar, and .giving up their tapers, kneel down ; then shut their eyes, open their mouths ; and the priests deposit the consecrated wafer upon their tongues. The procession now took a different direc- tion. They all went into the nave, where a sermon was preached to the young people, expressly upon the occasion, by a Monsieur Quillebeuf, a canon of the cathedral, and a preacher of considerable popu- larity. He had one of the most meagre and forbidding physiognomies I ever beheld, and his beard was black and unshaven. But he preached well; fluently, and even eloquently : making a very singular, but not ungraceful, use of his left arm — and displaying at times rather a happy familiarity of manner, wholly exempt from vulgarity, and well suited to the capacities and 68 ROUEN. feelings of his youthful audience. His subject was " belief in Christ Jesus ;" on which he gave very excel- lent proofs and evidences. His voice was thin, but clear, and distinctly heard. On the Feast of the Ascension, the Archbishop offi- ciated. He is the brother of Cambaceres, the second Consul of France when Bonaparte was the first ; and he is said to have once brandished the dagger as grace- fully as he now does the crosier. However this may be, the Archbishop is, upon the whole, rather popular — yet not with his clergy : by some of whom he is called cunning and worldly, and by others ignorant and selfish. The laity will have it that he is " too shrewd for his brethren." He is a very portly gentleman, above the mean height ; and the Abbe T***, with whom I walked to the ceremony, did not scruple to call him " une grosse machine de chair." His countenance is full, but of a benign expression ; and he has a sort of gentlemanly air with him. I was opposite to him during the service. He sat in his modernised stall, before described ; and had two attendants, full- dressed, with bag-wigs and swords. His square cardinal's cap was placed upon the red cushion before him. During the service he seemed to enjoy his fre- quent pinch of snuff, but was not free from the odious custom of spitting — even over the sides of his stall. I had however the satisfaction of witnessing about his person the only clean pair of bands and white pocket-handkerchief, which I had then seen in France. The service was long, and wearisomely ceremonial: but I could not disguise my indignation on seeing the canons, in pairs, or alone, as they passed the stall to ROUEN. 69 and from the high altar,- make low obeisances, almost amounting to prostrations, before the Archbishop ; of which the latter took as little notice as the Great Turk would of those of his Muftis. This adulation to man, in a house of God, is most repulsive to honest feelings. The Archbishop lives in a retired manner, within an old and spacious palace, hard by the cathedral, into which he has a private entrance ; and is said to be shy of letting the EngUsh visit his residence.* The revenues of the archbishopric are yet very considerable ; but they are supposed to have once netted little short of £30,000. sterUng.f And now, my dear Friend, if you are not tired with this detour of the Cathedral, suppose we take a promenade to the next most important ecclesiastical edifice in the city of Rouen. Wliat say you therefore to a stroll to the Abbey of St. Ouen ?:}: " Willingly," * He died within eight months after the ceremony above witnessed, in his 62d year. t In the year 1740, the diocese of Rouen comprehended thirty rural deaneries, thirty-four abbeys, twelve monasteries, and at least forty other congregations or societies — of both sexes. To this, add one thousand four hundred and thirty parishes, besides chapels and subsidiary establishments. In the whole, one thousand seven hun- dred places of worship. Gallia Christiana ; vol. xi. edit. 1759. X the Abbey of St. Ouen.] The first sixty pages of the Neustria Pia are devoted to an account of this abbey. It will answer all rea- sonable purpose, if, from these minute and ponderous details, it be only observed that there was probably an ecclesiastical building, on the present scite of St. Ouen, erected about the year 540 during the reign of Clothaire I. as Pope Gregory I. is supposed to have granted some privileges to the monks of the said church or abbey — first dedi- cated to St. Peter, about the year 595. However, the piety of St. 70 ROUEN. metbinks I hear you reply. — To the abbey therefore let us go. In other words, you must listen patiently to my description of this enchanting building. AuDOEN or St. Ouen, together with his attachment to this favourite spot, soon eclipsed all recollections of previous devotional ardour, among the monks and abbots. The second chapter of the Neustria Pia affords abundant confirmation of this remark ; and thenceforward, St, Ouen, having been made Archbishop of Rouen, and dying in 638 (not in 689, as Ducarel intimates), the abbey was to be designated by his own name. Consult too the Gallia Christiana, vol. xi. col. 1*2, &c. Ducarel says, that " St. Ouen dying at Clichy, his body was brought to Rouen, and deposited in a tomb which he had prepared for himself during his life-time, within the church of St. Peter, now the abbey church of St. Ouen :" that "three years after his inter- ment, his remains were, by his successor Ausbert, inclosed in a shrine of silver, and placed near the high altar :" and that, " in 842 they were removed to Paris, and in 918 brought back to this abbey, where they remained till they were burnt by the Calvinists in 1562." p. 25 ; note. This is erroneous. The shrine might have been carried away in 842, when the whole abbey was utterly destroyed by the incur- sions and ravages of the Normans. Towards the commencement of the following century, Rollo and other Norman chieftains were converted to Christianity — when also, the shrine might have been restored : but about the year 1050 the abbey was destroyed by fire J and is supposed to have been rebuilt by Richard I. and the Enapress Maud, in the following century. However, in the year 1248 it suffered a second general destruction by fire — " Qui combussit eccle- sias S. Laurentij et S. Gildardi, et totam abbatiam S. Audoeni. Tantum enim inualuit impetus ignis, vt omnia sedificia breui con- sumpserit, campanasque liquefecerit, et abbatem cum monachis exindfe fugere compulerit." It is true, the monks carried away some "^ ornaments, chalices, deeds, writings, and reliquesj" but 1 appre- hend the shrine of the Founder was rather too weighty for transporta- tion. Seethe iVeztsfna Pia; p. 31. The Hugonots of 1562 have enough to answer for, without the additional act of sacrilege in destroying the ROUEN. 71 Leaving the Cathedral, you go along the Rue cles Carmes, and pass a beautifully sculptured fountain (of the early time of Francis I.) which stands at the corner of a street, to the right ; and which, from its central situation, is visited the live-long day for the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little further; then, turning to the right, you get into a sort of square, and observe the Abbey — or rather the west-front of it, full in face of you. You gaze, and are first struck with its matchless w^iudow : call it rose, or marygold, as you please. I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is perfectly unrivalled. There is a play of line in the muUions, which, considering their size and strength, may be pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You approach, regretting the neg- lected state of the lateral towers, and enter, through shrine of St. Ouen. It was after this fire, towards the end of the xiiith, or rather about the beginning of the xivth century, that the abbey, in its present form, was begun to be erected by the cele- brated Jean Mardargent — and the building was continued by the ten successive abbots. But the Abbots Bohier and Cibo, in the xvth century, put the finishing strokes to it, as it now appears ; though yet imperfect. Consult Pommeraye's Histoire de VAbhaye Royale de St. Ouen de Rouen, 1662, folio : especially the xxi-iid chapters : p. 188. Consult also Ducarel ; p. 26. " La seconde singularite c'est I'edifice de I'eglise et maisons de I'Abbaye dje St. Ouen, comprins les plaisants iardins et voUier de toutes sortes d'oyseaux : oti y a aussi vne fontaine de marbre haute esleuee auecques diuers tuyaux d'vn plaisant et singu- lier artifice : et je puis asseurer que le nef de ce temple est la plus ample et mieux vitree qui soit en ce royaume." Such is the pithy but eloquent little passage of Bourgueville, relating to this abbey, in his Recherches et Antiquith de Caen; 1588, 8vo. p. 39, from a personal survey of it towards the middle of the xvith century. 72 ROUEN. the large and completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the Abbey. It was towards sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening was beautiful ; and the variegated tints of sun-beam, admitted through the stained glass of the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The window itself, as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the centre of it, from the remote end of the Abbey, or the Ladys Chapel, was a perfect blaze of dazzling light : and nave, choir, and side aisles, seemed magically illu- mined . . . Seemed all on fire — within, around ; Deep sacristy and altar's pale ; Shone every pillar foliage-bound Lay of the Last Minstrel. We declared instinctively that the Abbey of St. Ouen could hardly have a rival ; — certainly no superior. A trifling circumstance here occurred to divert our attention. In one of the remoter side chapels, feebly visited by all this magic of light, there stood a Con- fessional. Within this confessional was an invisible priest. On the outside a woman was kneeling and confessing : just before her, upon the pavement, be- tween the pillars of the choir and the confessional, a poor woman, and a lad or two, had each taken a chair, and were praying in the attitudes here exhibited by the rapid pencil of Mr. Lewis : and I will defy you to see the story better told in any of the more elaborate engravings of Picart. In the course of my corres- pondence, you will probably be treated with another similar exhibition or two. ROUEN. 73 As the evening came on, the gloom of almost every side chapel and recess was rendered doubly impres- sive by the devotion of numerous straggling suppli- cants ; and invocations to the presiding spirit of the place, reached the ears and touched the hearts of the by-standers. The grand western entrance presents you with the most perfect view of the choir — a magical circle, or rather oval — flanked by lofty and clustered pillars, and free from the surrounding obstruction of screens, &c. Nothing more airy and more captivating of the kind can be imagined. The finish and deUcacy of these pillars are quite surprising. Above, below, around — every thing is 74 ROUEN. in the purest style of the xi vth and xvth centuries. The central tower is a tower of beauty as well as of strength. Yet in regard to further details, connected with the interior, it must be admitted that there is very little more which is deserving of particular description : except it be the gallery, which runs within the walls of the nave and choir, and which is considerably more light and elegant than that of the cathedral. A great deal has been said about the circular windows at the end of the south transept, and they are undoubtedly elegant : but compared with the one at the extremity of the nave, they are rather to be noticed from the tale attached to them, than from their positive beauty. The tale, my friend, is briefly this. These windows were finished (as well as the larger one at the west front) about the year 1439. One of them was ex- ecuted by the master-mason, the other by his appren- tice ; and on being criticised by competent judges, the performance of the latter was said to eclipse that of the former. In consequence, the master became jealous and revengeful, and actually poniarded his apprentice. He was of course tried, condemned, and executed ; but an existing monument to his memory attests the humanity of the monks in giving him christian interment.* On the whole, it is the absence * christian intervient^ — " Les Religieux de Saint Ouen touchez de compassion envers ce malheureux artisan, obtinrent son corps de la justice, et pour reconnoissance des bons services qu'il leur avoit rendus dans la construction de leur ^glise, nonobstant sa fin tragique, ne lais- sferent pas de luy fair I'honneur de I'inhumer dans la chapelle de sainte AgneSj oti sa tombe se voit encore auec cet Epitaphe : Cy gist M. Alexandre de Berneual, Maistre des oeuvres de Massonnerie. ROUEN. 75 of all obtrusive and unappropriate ornament which gives to the interior of this building that light, un- encumbered, and faery-like effect which so peculiarly belongs to it, and which creates a sensation that I never remember to have felt within any other similar edifice. Let me however put in a word for the organ. It is immense, and perhaps larger than that belonging to the Cathedral. The tin pipes (like those of the organ in the Cathedral) are of their natural colour. I paced the pavement beneath, and think it cannot be short of forty English feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches which I have yet seen, the organs strike me as being of magnificent dimensions. You should be informed however that the extreme length of the interior, from the further end of the Chapel of the Virgin, to its opposite western extre- mity, is about four hundred and fifty English feet ; while the height, from the pavement to the roof of the nave, or the choir, is one hundred and eight English feet. The transepts are about one hundred and forty feet in length.* The monuments are easily run au BailUage de Rouen, et de cette EgUse, qui trepasm Van de grace, 1440, le 5 Januier, Priez Dieu pour I'ame de luy. PoMMERAYE : Hist de L'Abhaye de St. Ouen, p. 197, 1662, folio. At Paris, in a collection of prints, relating to Normandy, (see page 41 ante) I saw some clever, minute engravings in Grignion's style, of these three rose windows : together with a geometrical plan of the abbey. But these I think may be seen in Pommeraye, p. 1 96. * The reader will find a description of the interior of this Abbey in Ducarel, p. 28, as it appeared in his time. I may add, however, that the clock, with " the figures of St. Michael and the Devil/' and the " grilles de fer," are now no longer in existence. 76 ROUEN. over: indeed they scarcely deserve to be mentioned. Not so the exterior of this wonderful building. I have already told you that the west end was never com- pleted^ but what is finished is worthy of its neighbour- ing beauties. The central tower, upon the whole, is not only the grandest tower in Rouen, but there is nothing for its size in our own country that can com- pete with it. It rises upwards of one hundred feet above the roof the church ; and is supported below, or rather within, by four magnificent cluster-pillared bases, each about thirty-two feet in circumference. Its area, at bottom, can hardly be less than thirty- six feet square. The effect, seen at a due distance, is perfectly enchanting — owing to the fine proportions of every thing about it, which are neither too shm nor too massive, neither too plain nor too ornate. Turn which way you will, from any part of the town or boulevards, the great tower of this Abbey lifts its magnificent head Quantum lenta solent inter viburna cupressi. The choir is flanked by flying buttresses, which have a double tier of small arches, altogether " marvellous and curious to behold." Attached to the northern transept, was 07ice a refectory, chapter-house, and CLOISTER. But refectory, chapter-house, and cloisters, are now gone ! — save a mere relic of the latter. What could have caused their removal, think you? The van- dalic revolution ? No— for hereunto adjoining, stand some oflaces of government ; the Hotel de Fille, Library, &c. — and the Refectory was taken down in ROUEN. 77 order that it might not impede the vieiv of a tasteless, monotonous pile of what is called Greek or Roman architecture— in which the said government offices are contained! Nay, down went the very northern porch itself, attached to the northern transept . . and all this within three years of writing the melancholy record of such a preconcerted, tasteless, act of demo- lition. Where were the pencils— where were the pens —of the whole '' corps academique" of the city of Rouen. Pommeraye has favoured us with a view of this refectory, &c.* and my friend M. Le Prevost gratified me with a sight of some drawings of it- executed at his own expense, to enrich his choice little cabinet. It is due however to the present cor- poration to state, that the earliest acts of devasta- tion commenced during the revolution ; yet the grati- tude of tlie survivors of that horrible scene should rather have repaired what had been effaced, than have demolished the whole fabric— for the petty gratification of an architect's vanity. To compensate you, in some measure, for this ruthless act, you may steal quietly * Pommeraye has favoured us with a view of this ref ectory .']— It is a bird's-eye view, and will be found between pages 220 and 221 of his History. It is not only a view of the refectory and cloisters, but of the gardens, &c. and is extremely curious. In Ducarel's time those fine appurtenances were standing. He thus describes them. " The Refectoby, Chapter House, and Cloisters, are very grand edi- fices. In the latter, which appears to be much more ancient than the church, I observed some old stone desks stuck to the piUars, and de- signed to place books upon : but I did not meet with the image of any saint, or crucifix," Anglo-Norman Jntiquiiies/' 1767, folio, p. 29. See old Bourgueville's short description, at page 73 antej where he talks of singing birds warbling in the adjacent gardens. 78 ROUEN. round to the porch of the south transept, and witness, in that porch, one of the most chaste, light, and lovely specimens of Gothic architecture, which can be con- templated. Indeed, I hardly know any thing like it.* The leaves of the poplar and ash were beginning to mantle the exterior ; and, seen through their green and gay lattice work, the traceries of the porch seemed to assume a more interesting aspect. They are now mending the upper part of the facade with new stone of peculiar excellence — but it does not harmonise ^vith the old work. They merit our thanks, however, for the preservation of what remains of this precious pile. I should remark to you that the eastern and north- eastern sides of the abbey of St. Ouen are surrounded by promenades and trees : so that, occasionally, either when walking, or sitting upon the benches, within these gardens, you catch one of the finest views imaginable of the abbey. Indeed, attached to the north-east side of the north transept, there is one relic of former times — rather of the castellated than of the ecclesiastical cha- ractei-|~ — which strikes me as the oldest piece of build- * hardly know any thing like ii."] — Even Dr. Ducarel became warm — ou contemplating this porch! " The porch at the south en- trance into the church (says he) is much more worthy of the spectator's attention, being highly enriched with architectonic ornaments 3 parti- cularly two beautiful cul de lamps, which from the combination of a variety of spiral dressings, as they hang down from the vaulted roof, produce a very pleasing eflPect," p. 28. f rather of castellated, than of ecclesiastical character.'] — '' Adjoin- ing to that part of the north side of the church, which is just below the transept of the cross, I observed a very old tower, which, as the monks assert, was part of the church built by king Richard I. and Maud the Empress," Ducarel, p. 29. I have no doubt of this being of the ROUEN. 79 ing, of whatever kind, in Rouen — at least, that I have yet seen. At this early season of the year, much com- pany is assembled every evening- in these walks : while, in front of the abbey, or in the square facing the western end, the national guard is exercised in the day time — and troops of fair nymphs and willing youths mingle in the dance on a sabbath evening, while a platform is erected for the instrumental per- formers, and for the exhibition of feats of legerdemain. You must not take leave of St. Ouen without being told that, formerly, the French Kings used occasion- ally to " make revel" within the Abbot's house. Henry II, Charles IX, and Henry III, each took a fancy to this spot — but especially the famous Henri Quatre. It is reported that this monarch sojourned here for four months — and his reply to the address of the aldermen and sheriff of Rouen is yet preserved both in MS. and by engravings. " The King having arrived at St. Ouen (says an old MS.)* the keys of the tower were pre- sented to him, in the presence of M. de Montpensier, the governor of the province, upon a velvet-cushion. Tlie keys were gilt. Tlie King took them, and re- placing them in the hands of the governor, said — " Mon cousin, je vous ies bailie pour les rendre, qu'ils les gar- dent;" — then, addressing the aldermen, he added, " Soyez moi bons sujets et je vous serai bon Roi, et le meilleur Roi que vous ayez jamais eu." latter part of the xiith century ; but it must be now quite impossible to appropriate, with exactitude, every portion of this building, * Consult the account given by M. Le Frevost in the " Precis Ana- lytique des Travaux de V Academic, Sfc. de Rouen," for the year 1816, p. 151, &c. 80 ROUEN. Unconscionably long as you may have found this letter, I shall hazard an extension of it by giving you a rapid sketch of the remaining ecclesiastical edifices which are more particularly deserving of notice. Next to the Abbey of St. Ouen, " go by all means and see the church St. Maclou," say your friends and your guides. The Abbe Turquier accompanied me thither. The great beauties of St. Maclou are its tower and its porch. Of the tower, little more than the lantern remains. This is about 160 Enghsh feet in height. Above it was a belfry or steeple, another 110 feet in height, constructed of wood and lead — but which has been nearly destroyed for the sake of the latter arti- cles — for sundiy purposes of slaughter or resistance during the revolution.* The exterior of the porches are remarkable for their elaborate ornaments ; espe- cially those in the Rue Martinville. They are highly praised by the inhabitants, and are supposed to be * Farin tells us that you could go from the top of the lantern to the cross, or to the summit of the belfry, " outside, without a ladder: so ad- mirable was the workmanship." " Strangers (adds he) took models of it for the purpose of getting them engraved, and they are sold pub- licly at Rome." Hist, de la Villede Rouen, 1738, 4to. vol. ii. p. 154. There are thirteen chapels within this church j of which however the building cannot be traced lower than quite the beginning of the xvith century. The extreme length and width of the interior is about l.'iS by 82 feet English. Even in Du Four's time the population of this parish was very great, and its cemetery (adds he) was the first and most regular in Rouen. He gives a brief, but glowing description of it — " on va tout autour par des galeries couvertes et paveesj et, deux de ces galeries sont decorees de deux autels," &c. p. 150. Alas! time — or the revolution — has annihilated all this. Let me add that M. Cotman has published a view of the staircase in the church of which I am speaking. ROUEN. 81 after the models of the famous Goujon. Perhaps they are rather encmnbered with ornament^ and want that quiet effect, and pure good taste, which we see in the porches of the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen. However, let critics determine as they will upon this point — they must at least unite in reprobating the barbarous edict which doomed these delicate pieces of sculptured art to be deluged with an over-whelming tint of staring yellow ochre ! The monuments and the stained glass cease to be interesting after what you have already seen. Two circumstances, connected with this church, I shall not easily forget. The one was, that, close to the principal door of entrance, (at right angles with the Rue MartinvUle) I got intelli- gence from a vender of old and second-hand books — who was seated in a narrow stall, or shed, with a cocked hat on, which almost touched each extremity of it — of a copy of the first impression of the New Testament printed in the French language about the year 1478, which he had sold to a brother book-vender, and which I purchased within five minutes after re- ceiving the intelligence, llie other circumstance, of a veiy different complexion, was, that, in one of my visits to M. Megard, (the typographical Bulmer of Rouen) on a Sunday morning, I arrived just at the moment when the congregation were quitting the church. The Rue MartinvUle runs at right angles with the Rue JMalpalu, which latter is on a rapid de- scent, terminating at the quays. The human beings, almost all females, with their broad " streamers waving in the wind" — in other words, with their white spiral caps, in a sort of undulating motion, as they 82 ROUEN. descended the streets — presented one of the most novel and amusing- sights of the kind which I had ever wit- nessed. It seemed as if half of the population of Rouen had uttered their orisons within St. Maclou. Indeed, I thought there would have been no end to the departing procession. Of the remaining churches, I shall mention only four : two of them chiefly remarkable for their interior, and two for their paramount antiquity. Of the two former, that of St. Fincent * presents you with a noble organ, with a light choir profusely gilded, and (rarer ac- companiment) in very excellent taste. But the stained glass is the chief magnet of attraction. It is rich, varied, and vivid to a degree ; and, upon the whole, is the finest specimen of this species of art in the pre- sent ecclesiastical remains of the city. ^S*^. J^wien-^- is * that of St. Vincent^ Farin is rather brief in his account of this church : which however he calls " one of the largest and finest in Rouen." He coldly obsers'es " les vitrcs sont estimes :" he might have inserted the adverb " tr^s" before the participle. The repara- tions and beautifying, &c. took place chiefly about the year 1720. The church suffered dreadfully from Calvin istic wrath in the year 1562. The tower was built in 1669. It was on a fine sunny morn- ing, before breakfast, that I visited this church; and am willing to hope that, if the panegyric above bestowed upon the stained glass windows be overcharged, the fault may be attributed to the Sun ! — Yet Gilbert countenances the eulogy. f St. Vivien.'] In the beginning of the xiiith century, this church, now almost in the heart of the city, was in the suburbs. The pre- sent structure v/as completed towards the end of the xvth century. Towards the middle of the same century " a bone of the arm, one of the shoes, and a part of the sepulchre — belonging to St. Vivien — were carried to the cathedral church, and from thence deposited in that called by the name of the Saint." In the year 1588 a very extraor- ROUEN. 83 the second of these two former. It is a fine open church, with a large organ, having a very curious dinary procession of the " White Penitents'' set out from this church to the Cathedral. In 1560 it partook of the general calamity inflicted by the implacable Calvinists. See Far in, vol, ii. p. 16^-4. I regret that I omitted to visit the churches of St. Patrice and St. Godard ; and more especially the latter — which Farin says (in his time) boasted of the " finest stained glass windows in France" — and which gave rise to the saying — when speaking of wine of a fine transparent colour, " il est de la couleur des vitres de St. Godard !" These brilliant windows are of the xvith century. The church of St. Godard is also one of the very largest, as well as most ancient, in Rouen. In former days, the rich and the powerful seemed to vie with each other in bestowing marks of their munificence upon it. But it suffered perhaps more dreadfully than any other from the un- bridled fury of the Calvinists. It may be worth noticing that Farin says that the organ, which was erected in 1640, was the work of William Lesley, a Scotchman. Vol. ii. p 132 — 143. Ducarel (p. 33) has taken his brief notice of this church from Farin, without having had the grace to acknowledge it. It should seem, from Gilbert, that a great quantity of old stained glass had been of late sold to the English at Rouen. But the revolution had facilitated this traffic. " On doit (says Gilbert) un tribut de reconnoissance k ceux des ma- gistrats et des habitans ([ui, par leur zfele et par leur courage, sont parvenus ^ les preserver de la destruction." He then goes on to observe : " La peinture sur verre, cultivee alors avec le plus grand succ^s par d'habiles artistes (dont les descendans exercent encore la profession de vitrier a Rouen et a Paris,) * trouva dans la munificence des Rouennois, un noble sujet d'cncouragement, et produisit cette multitude de magnifit^ues vitraux peints qui Ton admiroit autrefois dans les ^lises, et dont un petit nombre a fort heureusement ^'chaj^pes k la fureur revolutionnaire, aussi bien qu' k la cupidite des acquireurs * M. M. Levieil. " On doit ^ Pierre Levieil, mort en 17/2, un excellent Traits Historique et pratique de la peinture sur verre, qui fait partie de I'Encyclop^die. Cet ouvrage est rempli de savantes recherches. Gilbert, p. 4. VOL. I. F 84 ROUEN. wooden screen in front, elaborately carved, and, as I conceive, of the very earliest part of the sixteenth cen- tury. I ascended the organ-loft ; and the door hap- pening to be open, I examined this screen, (which has luckily escaped the yellow-ochre edict) very minutely, and was much gratified by the examination. Such pieces of art, so situated, are of rare occurrence. For the first time, within a parish church, I stepped upon the pavement of the choir : walked gently forwards, to the echo of my own footsteps, (for not a creature was in the church) and, " with no unhallowed hand" I would hope, ventured to open the choral or service book, resting upon its stand. It was wide, thick, and ponderous : upon vellum : beautifully written and well executed in every respect, with the exception of the illuminations — which were extremely indifferent. I ought to tell you that the doors of the churches, abroad, are open at all times of the day : the ancient or more massive door, or portal, is secured from shutting ; but a temporary, small, shabby wooden door, covered with dirty green baize, opening and shutting upon circular hinges, just covers the vacuum left by the absence of the larger one. But for the two ancient churches, above alluded to. Of these two ancient churches, therefore, situated at des monuniens religieux qui en ont vendu une grande quantity aux Anglois. Les ^glises de Saint Godard, de Saint Patrice, de Saint Vivien, et la Cathedrale, possfedent encore de pr^cieux morceaux de peinture sur verre."t Descript. Hist, de Ndtre Dame de Rouen, p. 4. f On se rappelle d'avoir vu avec int^ret les belles vitres de I'dglise de Saint Cande-le-vieux, de Saint Nicolas, et de la cliapelle de Saint Maur. ROUEN. 85 the opposite extremities of the city, let me first take you to that of St. Gervals, considerably to the north of where the Boulevards Cauchoise and Bouvreuil meet. It was hard by this favourite spot, say the Norman histo- rians, that the ancient Dukes of Normandy built their country-houses : considering it as a lieu de plaisance. Here too it was that the Conqueror came to breathe his last — desiring to be conveyed thither, from his palace in the city, for the benefit of the pure air. * I walked with M. Le Provost to this curious church: having before twice seen it. But the Cri/pt is the only thing worth talking about, on the score of antiquity. We were both * Ordericus Vitalis says that the dying monarch requested to be conveyed thither, to avoid the noise and bustle of a populous town. Rouen is described to be, in his time, " populosa civitas." Consult Duchesne's Historic Normannor. Scrip. Antiq. p. 656. It is not perhaps generally known that William was considered to be extremely munificent. He was certainly fond of giving large possessions to monastic establishments. In the archives of St. Ouen was a " Carta Willelrai Anglorum regis, pro Monasterio Floriacensi Anno 1067, in which he liberally confirmed all the privileges granted to the same monastery by his ancestors Richard and Robert. In this charter be styles himself " Anglorum rex eflfectus." Consult Martene and Durand's Thesaurus Novus Anecdotorum, 1717, fol. vol. 1. col. 196, F. But in the prologue to the work, concerning the acts of the later Kings of France, in 1110, the Conqueror is thus designated : " Nullus rex nostrorum temporum hoc Guillelmo fuit felicior ac moderatior. Ejus magnanimitatem & magnificentiam nemo laudare sufficit, quibus ille usque ad terminos terrae super omnes sevi nostri reges ac principes apparuit gloriosus. Fauci posthac reges, sicut reor, ilium imitabuntur, & ejus affluentia & morum elegantia per- fruentur, quibus eum Deus in hac vita felixque fortuna ditavit." Ejusd. Op. vol. i. col. 327-8. 86 ROUEN. struck, after descending a narrow stair-case, with the light which streamed from an aperture at the further end — half covered by the " young and lusty grass" — and which shed a soft mellow tint upon the gloom below. As you enter, there are two tombs of the oldest Arch- bishops of Rouen — who lived in times remote enough (for aught I know to the contrary) to have shaken hands with St. Jerom. These tombs are flat, solid, and plain. But it is the crypt (designed by Mr. Cot- man) upon which M. Le Prcvost loves to expatiate ! — and which strikes the eye of the antiquary. Perhaps I might say with perfect safety that here are the un- questionable remains of a Roman road. On quitting this crypt, and examining the architecture of the exterior above it, the same accomplished guide bade us remark the extraordinary formation of the capitals of the pillars : which, admitting some perversity of taste in a rude, Norman, imitative artist, are decidedly of Roman character. " Perhaps," said M. Le Prevost, " the last efforts of Roman art previous to the relin- quishment of the Romans." Among these capitals there is one of the perfect Doric order; while in another you discover the remains of two Roman eagles. The columns are all of the same height ; and totally unlike every thing of the kind which I have seen or heard of. Let me tell you, however, as we take leave of this curious old church, that William the Conqueror died in its vicinity. We descended the hill upon which St. Gervals is built ; and walked onward towards St. Paul, situated at the farther and opposite end of the town, upon a ROUEN. 87 gentle eminence, just above the banks of the Seine.* M. Le Provost was still our conductor. Tlie day- grew gloomy, and the heavens became black with thunder-clouds, as we approached this small edifice. It is certainly of remote antiquity, but I suspect it to be completely Norman. The eastern end is full of antiquarian curiosities. We observed a Grecian mask as the centre ornament upon the capital of one of the circular figures; and Mr. Lewis made a few slight drawings of one of the grotesque heads in the exterior, of wliich the hair is of an uncommon fashion. We discovered the Saxon ivhiskers upon several of these faces. Upon the whole, it is possible that parts of this church may have been built at the latter end of the tenth century, after the Normans had made themselves completely masters of this part of the kingdom ; yet it is more proliable that there is no vestige left which claims a more ancient date than that of the end of the eleventh century. I ought just to notice the church of St. Sever,f supposed by some to be yet more ancient : but I had no opportunity of taking a parti- cular survey of it. Thus much, or rather thus little, respecting the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES of Roucu. They merit indeed a volume of themselves. Tliis city could once boast of upwards of t/iirti/ parish churches; of * A view of it is published by M. Cotinan. t St. Sever.'] This church is situated in the southern fauxbourgs, by the side of the Seine, and was once surrounded by gardens, &c. As you cross the bridge of boats, and go to the race-ground, you leave it to the right : but it is not so old as St. Paul^-wh&re, Farin says, the worship of Adonis was once performed ! 88 ROUEN. which veiy nearly a dozen have been recently (I mean during the Revolution) converted into ivare- houses. It forms a curious, and yet melancholy melange — this strange misappropriation, of what was formerly held most sacred, to the common and lowest purposes of civil life! You enter these ware- houses, or offices of business, and see the broken shaft, the battered capital, and half-demolished altar- piece — the gilded or the painted frieze — in the midst of bales of goods — casks, ropes, and bags of cotton : while, without, the same spirit of demolition prevails in the fractured colunm, and tottering arch way. Thus time brings its changes and decays — premature as well as natural — and the noise of the carmen and injunctions of the clerk are now heard, where formerly there reigned a general silence, interrupted only by the matin or evening chaunt I I deplored this sort of sacrilegeous adaptation, to a respectable-looking old gentleman, sitting out of doors upon a chair, and smoking his pipe — " c'est dommage. Monsieur, qu'on a converti I'eglise a" — He stopped me: raised his left hand ; then took away his pipe with his right ; gave a gentle whiff, and shrugging up his shoulders, half archly and half drily exclaimed — " Mais que vou- lez vous. Monsieur? — ce sont des evenemens qu'on ne pent ni prevoir ni prevenir. Voila ce que c'est !" Leaving you to moralize upon this comfortable mor- ceau of philosophy, consider me ever, &c. 89 LETTER VI. HALLES DE COMMERCE. PLACE DE LA PUCELLE d'oR- LEANS(JEANNE d'aRC). BASSO-RELIEVO OF THE CHAMP DE DRAP d'oR. palace AND COURTS OF JUSTICE. You must make up your mind to see a few more sights in the city of Rouen, before I conduct you to the environs, or to the summit of Mont St. Catharine. We must visit a few more relics of antiquity, and take a yet more familiar survey of the town, ere we strive superas evadere ad auras. Indeed the information to be gained well merits the toil endured in its acquisition ; and as " the labour we delight in physics pain," so you must at least listen attentively to the continuation of the Rouen Tale. I should however notice to you, before hand, that Goube's * account of this city, which occupies scarcely twenty-five pages of his third volume, is utterly un- worthy of criticism ; and though Goube says his work is " written without literaiy pretension," yet he might have filled these twenty-five pages with better stuflf. The only town in England that can give you any notion of Rouen, is Chester ; although the similitude holds only in some few particulars. I must, in the first place then, make especial mention of the Halle s de Commerce. The marhets here are numerous and abun- * See p. 12, ante. 90 ROUEN. daiit, and are of all kinds. Cloth, cotton, lace, linen, fish, fruit, vegetables, meat, corn, and wine ; these for the exterior and interior of the body. Cattle, wood, iron, earthen- ware, seeds, and implements of agricul- ture : these for the supply of other necessities considered equally important. Each market has its appropriate scite. For picturesque effect, you must visit the Vieux March^, for vegetables and fish ; which is kept in an open space, once filled by the servants and troops of the old Dukes of Normandy, having the ancient ducal palace in front. This is the fountain head whence the minor markets are supplied. Every stall has a large old tattered sort of umbrella spread above it, to ward off the rain or rays of heat ; and, seen from some points of view, the effect of all this, with the ever-restless motion of the tongues and feet of the vendors, united to their strange attire, is exceedingly singular and interesting. Mr. Lewis's occupation would not admit of his making a satisfactory sketch of it, or I am not certain whether any effort of his pencil could have more gratified the tastes of our country- men. These huge and broad spreading umbrellas, with their accompaniments of live and dead stock, taken in a somewhat fore-shortened manner, would produce a truly spirited picture for the burin of Mitan. Leaving the old market place, you pass on to the Marche Nenf, where fruits, eggs, and butter are chiefly sold. At this season of the year there is necessarily little or no fruit, but I could have filled one coat pocket with eggs (a dangerous experiment!) for less than half a franc. These market places are at the southern extremity of the town, near the quays. But ROUEN. 91 while upon tlie subject of buying and selling, I must take you with me to the HciUes of Rouen ; in other words, to the large public buildings now exclusively appropriated to the vendition of cloths, linen, and the varied et-ceteras of mercery. These are at once spacious and interesting in a high degree. They form the divisions of the open spaces, or squares, where the markets just mentioned are held ; and were for- merly the appurtenances of the palaces and chateaux of the old Dukes of Normandy : the latter of which are now wholly demolished. You must rise betimes on a Friday morning, to witness a sight of which you can have no conception in England : unless it be at a similar scene in Leeds. By six o'clock the busy world is in motion within these halls. Then com- mences the incessant and inconceivable vocifera- tion of buying and selling. The whole scene is alive, and carried on in several vast, stone-arched rooms, supported by a row of pillars in the cen- tre. Of these halls, the largest is about three hundred and twenty English feet in length, by fifty- five in width. The centre, in each division, con- tains tables and counters for the display of cloth, cotton, stuff, and linen of all descriptions. The dis- play of divers colours — the commendations bestowed by the seller, and the reluctant assent of the pur- chaser — the animated eye of the former, and the cal- culating brow of the latter — the removal of one set of wares, and the bringing on of another — in short, the never-ceasing succession of sounds and sights astonishes the gravity of an Englishman ; whose asto- nishment is yet heightened by the extraordinary good 92 ROUEN. humour which every where prevails. The laugh, the joke, the Equivoque, and reply, were worth being re- corded in pointed metre ; — and what metre but that of Dan Crabbe could possibly render it justice ? By nine of the clock all is hushed. The sale is over : the goods are cleared ; and both buyers and sellers have quitted the scene. La Halle au Bled, or the Corn Market, probably presents a more interesting scene. This hall is close to the preceding, and is about three hundred and twenty English feet in length, and proportionably broad and lofty. The market days are Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; but more especially the latter day. Indeed if you cast a leisurely and reflecting survey upon these several markets — if you consider the bustle and barter that is going on, and that eveiy thing indicates the renovation of prosperity after the late afflicting events of the revolution— if you consider too (as the Roiien- nois ought, and I hope do, consider !) " how good the God of harvest" has been to them in the fecundity of their pasture and arable soil ! — when you gaze, I say, with a truly philosophical feeling upon all this ani- mated scene, here so inadequately described, you can- not but instinctively acknowledge how preferable are the quiet pursuits of peace to the tumultuous occu- pations of war — how infinitely more instructive are the arts of agriculture than those of arms — and what in- calculable moral benefits result from the cultivation of industrious habits, compared with all the glories to be acquired from conquest, from ambition, and from despotism ! O Fortunatos nimium sua si bona norint ! — ROUEN. 93 From still, let me conduct you to active life. In other words, let us hasten to take a peep at the Horse and Cattle Market. These are subjects of consideration, to which you, my dear friend, who equally love to be borne upon a fiery steed, and to see your cows grazing in your meadows, or grouped upon canvas, by a Cu}^) or a Vandevelde, can never be indifferent. On the other hand, consider my inexperience — my total ignorance of the meaning of words in Tattersal's Dic- tionary ; though, for dead stock, I will not allow your admiration of Cuyp, or of Vandevelde, to exceed my own. In few words then, be it known that the Horse and Cattle Market is carried on in the veiy opposite part of the town ; that is, towards the northern Boulevards. The horses are generally entire : and indeed you have scarcely any thing in England which exceeds the Nor- man horse, properly so understood. This animal unites the hardiness of the mule with the strength of his own particular species. He is also docile, and well trained; and a Norman, from pure affection, thinks he can never put enough harness upon his back. I have seen the face and shoulders of a cart- horse quite buried beneath a profusion and weight of collar; and have beheld a farmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and strik- ing as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. The carts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels, which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently pro- jecting : while the eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. On one of these 94 ROUEN. market days, my son, more learned in the knowledge of horses than his parent, asked the price of an en- tire, fine animal; but the vender would hear of nothing under forty louis — ^which I thought " a good round sum." In the market these animals stand pretty close to each other for sale ; and are led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive veiy dex- terously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem to have an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, demands forethought and deliberation Of the Streets, in this extraordinary city, that of the Great Clock — (Rue de la Grosse Horloge) which runs in a straight line from the western front of the Cathe- dral, at right angles with the Rue des Carmes, is probably the most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our entrance (in the cabriolet of the Diligence,) beneath the arch to the upper part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost in admiration at the singu- larity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on one side of this arch ; over which is sculp- tured a motley group of insipid figures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock merits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, on looking at it. It was within this old tower * that a bell was formerly tolled, at nine o'clock * " C'est, comme on I'a dit, dans cette Tour qu'est plac^e la cloche dite d' argent, ou Beffroy, que Ton Sonne dans les c^r^naonies pub- liques, pour les diverses Elections, les moments de calamity, tels que les incendiesj etc. 5 elle se fait remarquer par un timbre trfes- ROUEN. 95 each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to retire within the walls of the city ; but not for the purpose of extinguishing their fires — no curfew — as in times of old with us. As to the clock, it is remarkable rather for its antiquity than for the regularity of its move- ments. It is heavy and clumsy, yet not wanting a certain old fashioned richness of ornament. No in- habitant, living on either side of it, whether stationary, or moving beneath it, ever now thinks of lifting his eyes towards this object — which formerly perhaps com- manded the admiration of the young and the respect of the old. Ancient usages are speedily forgotten ; and what we are in the habit of contemplating when young, ceases to attract attention in maturer years. Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, we observe a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called La Place de la Pucelle: that is, the place where the famous Jeanne d'ARc * clair et sonore qui produit une sensation extraordinaire. On lasonne tons les soirs k neuf-heures : c'est que Ton nomrae k Rouen la retraite, parce que dans les temps de guerre, ou lorsque les portes de la ville se femiaient, elle avertissait les habitants hors de la ville d'y rentrer, au risque de passer la nuit dans les faubourgs. Sa destination a €t€ aussi d'avertir les soldats de la garnison de I'heure de la retraite." Itin&aire, p. 126. * the famous Jeanne d'Akc] Goube, in the second volume of his Histoire du Duch4 de Norinandie, has devoted several spiritedly written pages to an account of the trial and execution of this heroine. Her history is pretty well known to the English — from earliest youth. Goube says that her mode of death had been completely prejudged — for that, previously to ihe sentence being passed, they began to erect " a scafiFold of plaister, so raised, that the flames could not at first 96 ROUEN. was impnsoned, and afterwards burnt. What sensa- tions possess one as we gaze upon each surrounding reach her — and she was in consequence consumed by a slow fire : her tortures being long and horrible." Hume has been rather too brief: but he judiciously observ^es that the conduct of the Duke of Bedford " was equally barbarous and dishonourable." Indeed it were difficult to pronounce which is entitled to the greatest abhor- rence — the imbecility of Charles VII. the baseness of John of Luxembourg, or the treachery of the Regent Bedford ? I hope this latter renowned character employed and paid the artists for his famous Missal and Breviary — as an act of penance and atone- ment for his absolute wickedness towards the Maid of Orleans. It seems pretty clear that Monstrelet, the celebrated historian, and contemporary with Joan, was not well disposed towards her. She was taken prisoner in a sortie from Compeigne, about five o'clock in the afternoon, upon the eve of the day of Ascension, and " was drag- ged from her horse (says that chronicler) by an archer, near to whom was [Lyonnel] the bastarde de Vendome ; and to him she sur- rendered, and pledged her faith. He lost no time in carrying her to Maligny, and putting her under a secure guard," &c. " The Duke of Burgundy went to the lodgings where she was confined, and spake some words to her ; but what they were (continues Monstrelet) I do not now recollect, although I was present, [dolt!] The Duke and the army returned to their quarters, leaving the Maid under the guard of Sir John Luxembourg ; who shortly after sent her, under a strong escort, to the castle of Beaulieu, and thence to that of Beau- revoir, where she remained, as you shall hear, a prisoner a long- time. " (Johness Monstrelet, vol. ii. p. 380, folio impression. Edit. Sauvage, 1572. vol. ii. fol. 57-8.) So that it should seem Sir John did not immediately dispose of his prisoner : Monstrelet has confined his account of the incarceration and death of the Maid, to the Lettres Missives of the Regent Bedford : in which, among her supposed crimes, formal mention is made of her wearing man's apparel for two whole years — " chose a Dieu abhominable P " Elle fut menee par la dicte iustice li^e au vieil marche' dedans Rouen, et Ik pub- liquement fut arse k la veue de tout le peuple." Monstrelet, edit. Sauvage, vol. ii. fol. 71. ROUEN. 97 object ! — although, now, each surrounding object has undergone a most palpable change. Ah, my friend — The unfortunate sufferer is thus described by a French poet of the latter end of the xvth century : Et a Rouen en emmenerent La PiicELLE pour prisonniere. Elle est trfes doulcc, amiable, Moutonne, sans orgueil ne envie, Gracieuse, moult sen'iable, Et qui menoit bicn belle vie. Trfes souvent elle se confessoit, Pour avoir Dieu en protecteur, Ne gaire Feste se passoit. Que ne receust son Cr^atem*. Mais ce nonobstant les Angloys Aux vertuz & bicns ne penserent, Ain^ois en haine des Fran^oys, Tres dureraent si la traicterent. Pius au derrenier la condamnerent A mourir douloureusement, Et brief I'arderent & bnUlerent A Rouen tout publiquement. Lcs Poesies de Martial de Paris. Paris, 1 724, 12mo. vol. i. p. 120. The identical spot on which she suffered is not now visible, accord- ing to Millin ; that place having been occupied by the late MarcM des Veaux. It was however not half a stone's throw from the scite of the present statue. In the Antiquit^s Nationales of the last mentioned author (vol, iii. art. xxxvi.) there are three plates connected with the History of Joan of Arc. The Jirst plate represents the Porte Bouve- reuil to the left, and the circular old tower to the right — in which lat- ter Joan was confined, with some houses before it : the middle ground is a complete representation of the rubbishing state by which many of the public buildings at Rouen are yet surrounded j and French taste has enlivened the foreground with a picture of a lover and his mistress, in a bocage, regaling themselves with a flagon of wine. The old 98 ROUEN. what emotions were once excited within this small space! What curiosity, and even agony of mind, circular tower {" qui vit gemir cette infortunee," says Millin) exists no longer. The second plate represents the fountain which was buUt in the market-place upon the very spot where the Maid suffered, and which spot was at first designated by the erection of a cross. From the style of the embellishments it appears to have been of the time of Francis I. Goube has re-engraved this fountain. It was taken down or demolished in 1755; upon the scite of which Avas built the present tasteless production — resembling, as the author of the Itin^raire de Ronen (p. 69) well observes, " rather a Pallas than the heroine of Orleans." The name of the author was Stodts. Millin's third plate — of this present existing fountain, is desirable — in as much as it shews the front of the house, in the interior of Avhich are the basso-relievos of the Champ de drop d'Or: for an account of which see afterwards. In the same work, vol. ii. p. 2, is a plate of the JNIaid's monument at Orleans, cast in bronze (the second of the kind in France) in the year 1571. She is kneeling, with her long hair slightly tied with a riband behind the nape of her neck. Her head is uncovered, and her helmet and spear are by the side of her. Opposite to her is no very desirable neighbour — Charles VII. The central subject is the dead Christ in the lap of the Virgin, Does this monument yet exist? In a note at vol. iii. p. 3, Art. xxxvi., Millin properly refers to Lenglet du Fresnoy and Fontette's edition of Le Long's Bibliotheque Historique, for a catalogue of the numerous, or rather innumerable, works, of all kinds, and in all shapes, which were published relating to the Maid's life and death. The subject has been even dramatised; and in the MSS. of the Vatican there is a metrical mystery of the Siege of Orleans. Millin allows, with equal propriety, that all portraits of her — whether in sculpture, or painting, or engraving — are purely IDEAL. Perhaps the nearest, in point of fidelity, was that which was seen in a painted glass window of the church of the Minimes at Chaillot : although the building was not erected till the time of Charles VIII. Yet it might have been a copy of some coeval produc- tion. In regard to oil paintings, I take it that the portrait of Judith, with a sword in one hand, and the head of Holofornes in the other, has ROUEN. 99 mingled with the tumults of indignation, the shouts of revenge, and the exclamations of pity ! But life now goes on just the same as if nothing remarkable had hap- pened here. The past is forgotten. Nor smoke nor flame is seen ; nor the shrieks of the sufferer are heard. Poor Joan ! — she is one of the many who, having been tortured as a heretic, have been afterwards reverenced as a martyr. Her statue was, not very long after her execution, almost adored upon that very spot where her body had been consigned, with execrations, to the flames. As I gazed upon the present wretched sculptured representation of her, I could not but think of the sleepy attempt of Chapelaine, and the more ani- mated effort of our Southey — to immortalize her memory. The prison where Joan of Arc was confined yet partly exists ; and the spot where she was burnt is attested both by a fountain and a statue, in the centre of the square. The present statue is indeed frightful in every respect. It is defective in form, and divested of the costume of the time : two faults, which no other beauties (had it possessed any) could have compensated. However, this square contains probably one of the very oldest houses in Rouen — and as inte- resting as it is ancient. It is invisible from Avithout : but you open a wooden gate, and quickly find yourself within a small quadrangle, having three of its sides been usually copied (with the omission of the latter accompaniment) as that of Jeanne d'Arc. But it is time to close this account of her. Yet I hardly know a more interesting collection of books than that which may be acquired respecting the fate of this equally brave and unfortunate heroine. VOL. I. G 100 ROUEN. covered with basso-relievo figures in plaister. That side which faces you is evidently older than the left : indeed I have no hesitation in assigning it to the end of the xvth century. The clustered ornaments of human figures and cattle, with which the whole of the exterior is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures, chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of the same period. The taste which prevails* in them is half French and half Flemish. Not so is the character of the plaister figures which cover the left side on enter- ing. These, my friend, are no less than the represen- tation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the famous Champ de drap d'Or : of which Mont- faucon, after his fashion,* has published engravings. * Montfaucon, after his fashion,'] Far be it from me to depreciate the labours of Montfaucon, But those who have not the means of getting at that learned antiquarian's Monarchie Fran^oise may possibly have an opportunity of examining precisely the same representations, of the procession above alluded to, in DucareVs Anglo-Norman Anti- quities, Plate XII. Till the year 1726 this extraordinary series of ornament was supposed to represent the Council of Trent ; but the Abbe Noel, happening to find a salamander marked upon the back of one of the figures, supposed, with greater truth, that it was a representation of the abovementioned procession ; and accordingly sent Montfaucon an account of the whole. The Abbe might have found more than one, two, or three salamanders, if he had looked sharply upon this extraordinary exterior ; and possibly, in his time, the surfaces of the more delicate parts, especially of the features, might not have sustained the injuries which time and accident now seem to have inflicted upon them. Mr. Lewis, in the opposite beautiful specimen of art, both drawn and engraved by himself, has been scrupulously exact in shewing the decayed and perfect parts just as they appeared at the period of our visit. ROUEN. 101 Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of the beginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesi- tation in pronouncing the copy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed) to be most egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again ; considering it to be worth all the " huge clocks" in Rouen put toge- ther. It was of course too tempting a subject to be neglected by the pencil of Mr. Lewis : who selected the following small portion — as being nearly the most perfect which remains. 102 ROUEN. The house itself is now a lady's boarding-school, and the mistress (Mrs. Harmar, an English woman) shewed Mr. L. all manner of civility and attention during the execution of the drawing. Several of the young and sprightly tenants of this old-fashioned place came and conversed with him, while his pencil was in his hand, and he contrived to vary the occupation of that said pencil, by making one or two pretty little sketches of their physiognomies. Mrs. Harmar herself had nearly forgotten her legitimate English — so insensibly and surely do foreign sounds and language operate in giving an altered character to our own. I hardly know how to take you from this interesting spot — from this exhibition of beautiful old art — especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied the man- sion, and held a council here, with both English and French : that his bugles once sounded from beneath the gate-way ; and his goblets once sparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust that the Royal Academy of Rouen will not suffer this architectural reUc to perish, without leaving behind a substantial and a faithful representation of it. While upon the subject of ancient edifices — * and * tile subject of ancient edijices,] On examining the note at page 41 , it will be seen that mention is made of certain views of Rouen, or of portions of it, which are to be found in the Bibliotheque du Roi at Paris. In the same collection is a drawing of part of the ancient building in the Court of the Abbey St. Amand, in one of the streets of Rouen of which I have forgotten the name. In this composi- tion are seen the arms of Mary of Anhault, the Abbess. It is cleverly executed, and is well worth engraving. There is also rather ROUEN. 103 while the gallant deeds of Francis I. may be called to mind from reading' the last paragraph but one — let me take you with me back again a few steps, and crossing the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, contrive to place you in the centre of the square which is formed by the Palais de Justice. The inhabitants con- sider this building as the principal lion (of a civil character) in their city. It has indeed great claims to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic in Gothic art. It was partly erected by the famous Cardinal d'Amboise, (of whom I expatiated somewhat in my fifth letter) and partly by Francis I. ; and the Parliament of Normandy assembled here at the beginning of the sixteenth cen- tury, as it was built upon the scite of the old parlia ment house. This building precisely marks the resto- ration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth, this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many respects : for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure Grecian — but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are running up the sides of 8 portal, terminating in a Gothic arch ; and the Gothic ornaments themselves are not in the purest, or the most pleasing, taste. Too much is given to parts, and too little to the whole. The external orna- ments are frequently heavy from their size and elabo- an interesting view of tlie entrance into the same abbey, of the date of 1702. Not a vestige of the original now remains. A little print, by Sylvestre, of one of the old castles, at Rouen, may be also just worth mentioning. 104 ROUEN. rate execution ; and they seem to be stuck on to the main building without rhyme or reason. Nevertheless I know not how you can refuse assent to the criticism that this is a " vaste batiment d'un gothique extreme- ment delicat_, et tr^s hardi dans son execution."* Surely however the architect would have improved, as well as enriched, his building, if he had selected portions from a purer as well as better style of art, observable in the Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Ouen : — but men will be always inventing, and indulging their fancies equally at the expense of their judgment and reputation. The criminal offences are tried in the hall to the right, and the prisoners are confined in the lower part of the building to the left : above which you mount by a pretty lofty flight of stone steps, which conducts you to a singularly curious hall,-}- about one hundred and seventy-five English feet in length — roofed by wooden ribs, in the form of an arch, and displaying a most curious and exact specimen of carpenter's work. This is justly shewn and commented upon to the enquiring traveller. Parts of the building are devoted to the courts of assize, and to tribunals of audience of almost every description. The first Presidents of the Parlia- * Itin^raire de Rouen, 1815, Svo. t In Ducarel's time, " the ground story consisted of a great quad- rangle surrounded with booksellers shops. On one side of it a stone staircase led to a large and lofty room, which, in its internal as well as external appearance, resembled, though in miniature, West- minster hall. Here (continues Ducarel) I saw several gentlemen of the long robe, in their gowns and bands, walking up and down with briefs in their hands, and making a great show of business," Anglo- Norman Antiquities, p. 32. ROUEN. 105 ment lived formerly in the building which faces you upon entrance, but matters have now taken a very different turn. Upon the whole, this Town Hall, or call it what you will, is rather a magnificent erection ; and certainly very much superior to any provincial building of the kind which we possess in England. I should tell you that the courts for commercial or civil causes are situated near the quays, at the south part of the town : and Monsieur Riaux, who conducted me thither, (and who possesses the choicest library * of antiquarian books, of all descriptions, relating to Rouen, which I had the good fortune to see) carried me to the Hall of Commerce, which, among other apartments, contains a large chamber (contiguous to the Court of Justice) covered with fleurs de lys upon a light blue ground. It is now however much in need of reparation : fresh lilies and a new ground are absolutely necessary — to harmonise with a large oil-painting at one end of it,-}- in which is represented * the choicest library. 1 Monsieur Riaxix, Archiviste de la Chambre de Commerce. This amiable man and intelligent Bibliomaniac pro- mised to send me a list of his rarer and more valuable volumes, before I left Rouen. He unites a love of literary with architectural an- tiquities. The collection of M. Le Prevost is however as copious. t At another end of this chamber of the Hall of Commerce is a highly coloured picture, of colossal dimensions, representing the Genius of Commerce. It was bespoke by the Corporation of M. Le Monnier, of the Royal Academy of Painting, and is full of allegorical repre- sentations, comprehending the four quarters of the globe. " Imposant" as this picture may be considered, and introduced to your attention by several printed pages of description, I could not but consider it very dull, very faulty, and very uninteresting. lOG ROUEN. the reception of Louis XVI. at Rouen by the Mayor and Deputies of the town, in 1786. All the figures are of the size of life, well painted after the originals, and appear to be strong- resemblances. On encpiiring how many of them were now living-, I was told that — ALL WERE dead! The fate of the pr'mcipal figiu'e is but too well known. They should have this inte- resting subject — interesting undoubtedly to the inha- bitants — executed by one of their best engravers. It represents the unfortunate Louis quite in the prime of life; and is the best whole length portrait of him which I have yet seen in j)ainting or engraving. What an ornament for a provincial, or what we should call a county, publication ? But let us hope that the city of Rouen will yet have its Whittaker to desciibe its curiosities, and record its antiquities. I wish it no better historian. It is right however that you should know, that, in the Tribunal for the determination of commercial causes, there sits a very respectable Bench of Judges : among whom I recognised one that had perfectly the figure, air, and countenance, of an Englishman. I will also add (in sober truth) that he was the best looking of the whole. On enquiry of my guide, I found my supposition verified. He was an English- man ; but peradventure was indebted to a thirty years residence in the climate of Rouof for his handsome coimtenance and gentlemanly appearance ! Tlie ju- dicial costmne is appropriate in every respect ; but I coidd not help smiling upon meeting, the other morning, betimes, with my friend the judge, standing before the door of his house, in the open street — with ROUEN. 107 a hairy cap on — leisurely smoking his pipe. Would Mr. Justice L of old, or Mr. Justice that now is, recreate himself in the like manner ? I trow not. I hope you do not fail to remember that this is my Sixth Letter — " from the vine-covered hills and gay regions of France !" >! 108 LETTER VIJ. THE QUAYS. BRIDGE OF BOATS. RUE DU BAC. RUE DE ROBEC. EAUX DE ROBEC ET d'aUBETTE. MONT STE. CATHARINE. HOSPICES GENERALE ET d'humanite. Still tarrjnng within this old fashioned place! I have indeed yet much to impart before I quit it^ and which I have no scruple in avowing will be well de- serving of your attention. Do not expect me however to be for ever lingering within mouldy walls and per- ishing towers — and that the living are to be systemati- cally neglected for the dead — tho' assuredly you had " life enough" towards the latter part of my last dis- patch. Our day of departure is at length fixed, and probably this may be my last epistle but one from hence. Just letting you know, in few words, that I have visited the famous chemical laboratory of M. Vitalis, (Rue Beaitvois'nie) and the yet more wonderful spec- tacle exhibited in M. Lemere's machine for sawing wood of all descriptions, into small or large planks, by means of water works — I must take you along the quays for a few minutes. These quays are flanked by an architectural front, which, were it finished agreeably to the original plan, would present us with one of the noblest structures in Europe. To the best of my recollection this stone front was begun in the reign of Louis XV. but many and prosperous must be the years ROUEN. 109 of art, of commerce, and of peace, before money suffi- cient can be raised for the successful completion of the pile. The quays are long, broad, and full of bustle of every description ; while in some of the contiguous squares, ponderous bales of goods, shawls, cloth, and linen, are spread open to catch the observing eye. In the midst of this varied and animated scene, walks a WELL-KNovv^N CHARACTER, iu his large cockcd hat, and with his tin machine upon his back, filled with lemon- ade or coffee, surmounted by a bell — which " ever and anon" is sounded for the sake of attracting customers. Mr. Lewis has copied the entire scene to the life. T'^^ 110 ROUEN. -As you pass along this animated scene, by the side of the rapid Seine, and its Bridge of Boats*, you ■ --.viV " * The communication with the country lying south of Rouen, iS carried on by means of a timber bridge, two hundred paces in length, thrown over the River Seine from the middle of the quay to the Fau- bourg St. Sever, and of which the inhabitants talk with infinite rap- tures. This structure, begun in the year 169,6, is framed upon nineteen barges which rise and fall with the flux and reflux of the tide. It is so contrived that when there is occasion for vessels to pass through, one part of it, by the help of pullies, turns upon iron rollers over the other part, without the least injury to either. It hath also, as I was inform- ed, this farther covenience, that it can be taken to pieces in a few hours, when any danger is apprehended from the winter floods bring- ing down large flakes of ice. The expense of keeping this Jloating bridge in repair is very consi ^erable, as the barges on which it is con- structed, as well as the other parts of it, are subject to frequent decay ; inasmuch that it is said to amount, communibus annis, to ten thousand livres French, or upwards of four hundred pounds sterling. Just be- low it are the ruins of the once magnificent stone bridge, which con- sisted of thirteen arches, and was built by the Empress Maud, daughter of Henry I. King of England. This old bridge seems to have been much better situated than the present, having been placed so as to range in a line with the principal street, which is to this day called Rue Grand Pont; but after having stood firm between three or four hundred years, it began to feel a very sensible decay, and on the 22d of August 1502, three arches fell down, which in 1533 were followed by two others. These defects were supplied by a super-structure of tim- ber j but a few years after, some of the other arches beginning to open, the carriage and foot ways became so dangerous, that they were to- tally abandoned, and the passage over the river was from that time effected by means of ferry boats. Several attempts were after this made to repair the old bridge, but the ignorance of the French archi- tects was so great, that they unanimously declared it impossible to re- build a stone bridge in that place, on account of the depth of the water, and the rapidity of the river. Whereupon the present floating bridge was constructed in the manner I have mentioned." Ducabel, p. 35-6. ROUEN. Ill cannot help glancing now and then down the narrow old-fashioned streets, which run at right angles with the quays — with the innumerable small tile-fashioned pieces of wood, like scales, upon the roofs — which seem as if they would be demolished by eveiy blast. The narrowness and gloom of these streets, together with the bold and overwhelming projections of the upper stories and roofs, afford a striking contrast with the animated scene upon the quays: — where the sun shines with full freedom, as it were, and where the glitter- ing streamers, at innumerable mast-heads, denote the wealth and prosperity of the town. If the day happen to be fine, you may devote half a morning in con- templating, and mingling with, so interesting a scene. Judge yourself of one of these cramped streets, and overshadowing roofs^ by the following spirited drawang To this may be subjoined, that Buonaparte commenced the building of a new stone bridge; of which only the abutments on each side of the river, and one or two of the piers for arches in the middle, were executed. I should apprehend that the present bridge of boats (which is always one of the ugliest and most unpicturesque convey- ances imaginable) would hardly last two dozen of years. The central part for the carnages is terribly worn ; and as I was walking upon it, during the passage of the Caen diligence, I thought the vthole structure would have sunk into the bed of the river, A view of the river, the shipping, and the town, from a fine lofty stone bridge, would be en- chanting. I saw however, at Paris, in a collection of prints relating to Normandy (mentioned at page 41 ante) three pretty etchi'ngs, by Israel Silvestre of the ruins of the old stone bridge. Silvestre flourished in 1650-60. Evelyn thus notices these ruins in 1644. "There stand yet the mines [says he] of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supply'd by one of boates only, to which come up vessels of consider- able burden." Evelyn's Memoirs; vol. i. p. .50. Edit. 1S18. 112 llOUEN. of the Rue du Bac — leading to the south transept of the Cathedral — which has already cut so gay a figure in these despatches.* We have had frequent thunder-storms of late ; and the other Sunday evening, happening to be sauntering at a considerable height above the north-west Boulevards, towards the Faubourg Caucholse, I gained a summit, upon the edge of a gravel pit, whence I looked down unexpectedly and precipitously upon the town below. A magnificent and immense cloud was rolling over the whole city. The Seine was however visible on the other side of it, shining like a broad silver chord ; while the barren, ascending plains, through which the road to Caen passes, were gradually becoming dusk with the overshadowing cloud, and drenched with rain which seemed to be rushing down in one immense torrent. The top of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St. Ouen were almost veiled in darkness, by the passing storm ; but the lower part of the tower, and the whole of the nave of each building, were in one stream of golden light — from the last powerful rays of the setting sun. In ten minutes this magically-varied scene settled into the sober, uniform tint of evening ; but I can never forget the rich bed of purple and pink, fringed with burnish- ed gold, in which the sun of that evening set. I de- scended — absorbed in the recollection of the lovely objects which I had just contemplated — and regaled by the sounds of a thousand little gurgling streamlets, * See the opposite copper-plate. Perhaps this is one of the closest and most faithful of copies j and gives you a decided idea of the generality of those old, narrow streets, so particularly mentioned in the text. ROUEN. 113 created by the passing tempest, and hastening- to pre- cipitate themselves into the Seine. Of the different trades, especially retail, which are carried on in Rouen with the greatest success, those connected with the cotton manufactories cannot fail to claim your attention ; and I fancied I saw, in some of the shop-windows, shawls and gowns which might pre- sume to vie with our Manchester and Norwich produc- tions. Nevertheless, I learnt that the French were extremely partial to British manufactures : and cotton stockings, colored muslins, and what are called ginghams, are covetted by them with the same fondness as we prize their cambric and lace. Their best articles in watches, clocks, silver orna- ments, and trinkets, are obtained from Paris. But in respect to upholstery, I must do the Rouennois the justice to say, that I never saw any thing to compare with their escrutoires and other articles of furniture made of the walnut tree. These upright escrutoires, or writing desks, are in almost every bed- i-oom of the more respectable hotels : but of course their pohsh is gone when they become stationary furniture in an inn — for the art of rubbing, or what is called elbow- grease with us, is almost unknown on either side of the Seine. You would be charmed to have a fine spe- cimen of a side board, or an escrutoire, (the latter five or six feet high) made by one of tlieir best cabinet- makers from choice walnut wood. The polish and tone of colour are equally gratifying ; and resemble somewhat that of rose wood, but of a gayer aspect. The or-molit ornaments are tastefully put on ; but the 114 ROUEN. general shape, or contour, of the several pieces of fur niture, struck me as being- in bad taste. He who wishes to be astonished by the singularity of a scene, connected with trade, should walk leisurely down the Rue de Robec. It is surely the oddest, and, as some may think, the most repulsive scene imaginable: but who that has a rational curiosity could resist such a walk ? Here live the di/ers of clothes — and in the middle of the street rushes the precipitous stream, called L'Eau de Robec* — receiving colours of all hues. To day it is neai'ly jet black : to-morrow it is bright scarlet : a third day it is blue, and a fourth day it is yellow ! Meanwhile it is partially concealed by little bridges, communicating with the manufactories, or with that side of the street where the work-people live : and the whole has a dismal and disagreeable as- pect — especially in dirty weather : but if you go to one end of it (I think to the north — as it runs north and south) and look down upon the descending street, with the overhanging upper stories and roofs — the foreshortened, numerous bridges — the differently-co- lored dyed clothes, suspended from the windows, or from poles — the constant motion of men, women, and children, running across the bridges — with the rapid, camelion stream beneath — you cannot fail to acknow- ledge that this is one of the most singular, gro- * Bourgueville describes this river, in the sixteenth century, as being " aucune fois iaulne, autrefois rouge, verte, bleue, violee & autres couleurs, selon qu'vn grand nombre de teinturiers qui sont dessus, la diuersifient par interualles en faisant leurs maneures." Antiquitez de Caen, p. 36. ROUEN. 115 tesque, and uncommon sights in the wonder-working city of Rouen. With all the hetraying simplicity of a stranger, I stopped opposite a house in which I saw a basso-relievo ornament of a knight, praying be neath a tree, while his horse was grazing beside him. This plaister ornament had the date of somewhere be- tween 1580 andl 590 — but just now I forget the precise year. Possibly this might have been a representation of St. Hubert; or possibly the house might have been the residence of some distinguislied character during the League, — but how comfortable are " possibiUties" in the solution of difficulties, or the appropriation of persons and things? I ought to tell you that our old friend the first famous Cardinal d'Amboise caused the Eau de Rohec to be directed through the streets of Rouen, from its original channel or source in a little . valley near St. Martin da Fivlen. Formerly there was a much more numerous clan of these " teintu- riers" in the Rue de Robec — but they have of late sought more capacious premises in the fauxbourgs de St. Hilaire and de MartainvWe. The neighbouring sis- ter-stream, VEau d'Aiibette, is destined to the same pur- poses as that of which I have been just discoursing ; but I do not at this moment recollect whether it be also dignified, in its course, by turning a few corn mills, ere it empties itself into the Seine. Indeed the thundering- noise of one of these mills, turned by the Robec river, near the church of St. Maclou, will not be easily for- gotten by me. Thus you see of what various, strange, and striking objects the city of Rouen is composed. Bustle, noise, life and activity, in the midst of an at- mosphere unsulhed by the fumes of sea coal : hilarity 116 ROUEN. and apparent contentment : the spruce bourgeoise and the slattern fiUe de chambre : — attired in vestments of deep crimson and dark blue — every thing flits be- fore you as if touched by magic^ and as if sorrow and misfortune were unknown to the inhabitants. " Paullo majora canamus." In other words, let us leave the town for the country. Let us hurry through a few more bizarre alleys, courts, and streets — and as the morning is yet beautiful, let us hasten onwards to enjoy the famous Panorama of Rouen and its environs from the Mont Ste. Catharine . . . Indeed, myfriend, I sincerely wish that you could have accompanied us to the summit of this enchanting eminence : but as you are far away, you must be content with a brief de- scription of our little expedition thither.* The Mont St. Catharine, which is entirely chalk, is considered the highest of the hills in the immediate vicinity of Rouen ; or rather, perhaps, is considered the point of elevation from which the city is to be viewed to the * expedition thither.l — When John Evelyn visited this neighbour- hood, in 1644, " the country so abounded with wolves, that a shep- herd, whom he met, told him that one of his companions was stran- gled by one of them the day before — and that, in the midst of the flock ! The fields (continues he) are mostly planted with pears and apples and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abvmdance." Memoirs of the Life and Writings of John Evelyn, vol. i. p. 50. Edit. 1818. Myfriend Mr. J, H. Markland (a tried good Roxburgher) visited Mont St. Catha- rine the year after the visit above described. He was of course en- chanted with the view ; and told me, that a friend whom he met there, and who had travelled pretty much in Italy, assured him there was nothing like it on the banks of either the Arno or the Po. In shorty it ia quite peculiar to itself — and cannot be surpassed. ROUEN. 117 greatest possible advantage. It lies to the left of the Seine, in your way from the town ; and the ascent begins considerably beyond the barriers. Indeed it is on the route to Paris. We took an excellent^ac/e to carry us to the beginning of the ascent, that our legs might be in proper order for scrambling up the acclivities imme- diately above ; and leaving the main road to the right, we soon commenced our ambulatory operations in good earnest. But there was not much labour or much difficulty : so, halting, or standing, or sitting, on each little eminence, our admiration seemed to en- crease — till, gaining the highest point, looking towards the west, we found ourselves immediately above the town and the whole of its en^drons " Heavens, what a goodly prospect spreads around !" said I to myself^ — bethinking me of the well-known verse in Thomson's description of the view from Rich- mond Hill. Tlie prospect was indeed '^ goodly — " being varied, extensive, fertile, and luxuriant ... in spite of a comparatively backward spring. The city was the main object, not only of attraction, but of astonish- ment. Although the point from which we viewed it is considered to be exactly on a level with the summit of the spire of the Cathedral, yet we seemed to be hanging, as it were, in the air, immediately over the streets themselves. We saw each church, each public edifice, and almost each street ; nay, we began to think we could discover almost every individual stirring in them. The soldiers, exercising on the parade in the Champ de Mars, seemed to be scarcely two stones throw from us ; while the sounds of their music reached 118 ROUEN. us in the most distinct and gratifying manner. No " Diable boiteux" could ever have transported a " Don Cleophas Leandro Perez Zambullo" to a more favour- able situation for a knowledge of what was passing in a city ; and if the houses had been unroofed, we could have almost discerned whether the escrutoires were made of mahogany or of walnut-wood ! This wonder-working effect proceeds from the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere, and the absence of sea-coal fume. The sky was perfectly blue — the generality of the roofs were also composed of blue slate : this, added to the incipient verdure of the boulevards, and the darker hues of the trunks of the trees, upon the surrounding hills — the lengthening forests to the left, and the numerous white " maisons de plaisance"* to the right — while the Seine, with its hundred vessels, immediately below, to the left, and in face of you — with its cultivated little islands — and the sweeping meadows or race-ground-f- on the other side — all, or indeed any, of these objects could not fail to excite our warmest admiration, and to make us instinctively exclaim " that such a pa- norama was perfectly unrivalled I" Mr. Lewis took * It is thus prettily observed in the little Itintraire de Rouen — '' Ces agreables maisons de plaisance appartiennent a des habitants de Rouen qui y viennent en famille, dans la belle saison, se d^lasser des embarras dela ville et des fatigues du commerce." p. 153. f race-ground.'] — When the English cavalry were quartered here in 1814-5, the officers were in the frequent habit of racing with each other. These races weregaUy attended by the inhabitants J and I heard^ from more than one mouth, the warmest commendations bestowed upon thefleetness of the coursers and the skill of the riders. ROUEN. 119 out his drawing-book and pencil — and rather attempt- ed, than executed, a sketch of this enchanting view. More immediately opposite, within a fine wood upon a bold hill, stood the house of the Mayor of Rouen for the time being. I think they call this place Canteleu. It is very picturesque : but, as my hour of departure from hence draws near, and as you cannot possibly have more than another Rouen dispatch, (which must and shall be devoted to {too&e.ie^ — with the delightful et ceteras dependent thereupon) I shall only express my regret that I cannot visit other equally well known spots in the environs of Rouen . . . that I cannot wander in the lonely YdW^y o^ Mont-aux-Malades* — fit place for conventual or monastic dweUing — and ascend its nu- merous adjacent eminences, which, although they should seem to shut out the world, enable you to see the world from thence ! . . . that I must turn my back perhaps for ever upon Bapaume, Croisset, and Ddoille, and (yet more cruel fate !) upon the sweet and smiling plains of Bois-guillaume . But I will not repine. I have seen much and enjoyed much. I have paced the naves of the Cathedral and of the abbey of St. Ouen ; and * Mont-aux-Malades]. — " Les campagnes environnantes clu Mont- aux-Malades offrent des coteaux charmants qui invitent a s'y reposer. Leurs richesseSj leur variete, le silence de ces lieux solitaires, qui n'est trouble que par les chants de Philomfele et des heureux habitants des airSj tout invite a s'y arreter et ^ se livrer a la plus douce nielancholie sur ces pelouses ^maill^es de fleurs." Itim'raire de Rouen, p. 152. Such a passage — though from a waistcoat-pocket Itinerary — is not un- deserving of quotation, Mont-aux-Malades (its name derived, I ap- prehend, from the place being the resort of valetudinarians) lies above the Fauxbourgs Cauchoise andBouvreuil ; about a French league from the city. VOL. I. H 120 ROUEN. have stood as it were upon their pinnacles, while gazing at them from the height of Mont Ste. Catharine! M. Periaux, a very sensible man, and Member of the Royal Academy of Rouen, as well as a printer of equal business and reputation, wrote out for me a list of all the desirable places to be visited in the vicinity of the city : but to " write out," and to carry what is written into execution, are very ditFerent matters. I admitted to my Instructor that Mont-aux-Malades and Bihorel must remain imvisited by me . . . He answered, *^ done vous n'auriez rien vu." But this is surely a mere Academic flourish. We descended Mont Ste. Catharine* on the side facing the Hospice General: a building of a very handsome form, and considerable dimensions. It is a noble establishment for foundlings, and the aged and infirm of both sexes. I was told that not fewer than twenty-five hundred human beings were sheltered in this asylum ; a number, which equally astonished and delighted me. The de- scent, on this side the hill, is exceedingly pleasing ; being composed of serpentine little walks, through occasional alleys of trees [and shrubs, to the very base of the hill, not many hundred yards from the * This mount takes its name from an abbey formerly built there and dedicated to the Holy Trinity ; of which abbey SimeoXj a reli^ous character from Mount Sinai, was the founder. He, and his holy at- tendant (of the name of Gosselin) carried thither the relics of St. Ca- therine, and hence the place is called Mont Ste. Catharine. Pommeraye has devoted ninety folio pages to the Histoire de VAhhaye de la Ste. Tri- nite; dite du Mont de Sainte Catharine ; and is careful to tell us " how Simeon got into possession of the relics of the Saint.'' Histoire de VAbbaye Royale de St Ouen, 1662, folio. ROUEN. 121 hospital. The architecture of this extensive building is more mixed than that of its neighbour the Hospice d'Humamte, on account of the different times in which portions of it were added : but, upon the whole, you are rather struck with its approach to what may be called magnificence of style. I was indeed pleased with the good order and even good breeeding of its motley inhabitants. Some were stroUing quietly, ^vith their arms behind them, between rows of trees : — others were tranquilly sitting upon benches : a third group would be in motion within the squares of the building : a fourth appeared in deep consultation whether the potage of to-day were not inferior to that of the pre- ceding day? — " Que cherchez vous, Monsieur?" said a fine looking old man, touching, and half taking off, his cocked hat ;" "I wish to see the Abbe Tur- quier," — rejoined I. " Ah, il vient de sortir — par ici, Monsieur." " Thank you." " Monsieur je vous sou- haite le bon jour — au plaisir de vous revoir !" And thus I paced through the squares of this vast building. The " Portier" had a countenance which our Wilkie would have seized with avidity, and copied with inimi- table spirit and fidelity. The Jar din des Plantes is in the immediate vicinity of this Hospital. It was established during the reign of Louis XV., and my amiable acquaintance, the fore- mentioned Abbe, is one of the brightest ornaments of the Botanic institution which is attached to it. This garden, next to that at Paris, is considered the most curious in France. I rambled through it — regaled by 122 ROUEN. the odours of the violet and jonquille, and still more rejoiced at the sight of the blossoms of the apple and almond trees Spring is come at last . . . But where are the Books, and MSS. and Print hi g Presses of which I heretofore spake ? A little patience, and then. 123 LETTER VITL EARLY TYPOGRAPHY AT ROUEN. MODERN PRINTERS. CHAP BOOKS. BOOKSELLERS. BOOK COLLECTORS. " Yes — and then" ... for all the gossip and chit- chat connected with paper, ink, books, printing-offices, and curiosities of every graphic description. Perhaps the most regular method would be to speak of a few of the principal presses, before we take the productions of these presses into consideration. And first, as to the antiquity of printing in Rouen.* Tiie art of print- ing is supposed to have been introduced here, by a citizen of the name of Maufer, between the years 1470 and 1480. Some of the specimens of Rouen Missals and Breviaries, especially of those by Morin, who was the second printer in this city, are very splendid. His device, which is not common, but ra- ther striking, is here enclosed for your gratifica- tion. * antiquity of printing in JRowera.] — The reader may possibly not ob- ject to consult two or three pages of the Bibliographical Decameron, beginning at page 137, vol. ii. respecting a few early Rouen printers. The name of Maufer, however, appears in a fine large folio volume, entitled Gaietanus de Tienis Vincentini in Quatt. Aristot. Metheor. Li- bros, of the date of 1476 — in the possession of Earl Spencer. From the colophon of which we can only safely infer that Maufer was a citizen of Roiien. 124 ROUEN. Few provincial towns have been more fertile in ty- pographical productions ; and the reputation of Tail- LEUR, GuALTiER, and Valentin, gave great respect- ability to the press of Rouen at the commencement of the xvith century.* * at the commencsment of the x\ith century.'] — Among the earlier works of a poetical description, which seem to have any direct connection with Rouen, is the one entitled *' Palinodz, Chantz royaux. Ballades, Rodeaulx, et Epigrammes ; a I'honneur de limmaculee Coception, &c. On the third leaf are the names of those who contributed ballads, &c, among which we read M. Andry de la vigne : M. Guillaume Cretin. lehanMarot. Nicolle le vestu. Nicolleaubert. Pierre lelieur. N. tur- bot. G. Thibault. laques du pare. Innocent tourraente. Pierre le cheuallier. Crygnon de Dieppe. Guygnart appoticaire. Picot. Guil- ROUEN. 125 Yet I am not able to ascertain whether this press was very fruitful in JI!omatttt^,€l)tOllidc^, and olb ^oetrp- laume roger, Clement marot. laques fiUaster. Busquet. Tasserie, Frere Guillaume Alexis. All the poetry is of a serious and sombre cast — not approaching any- thing like energy or sublimity : with over-strained conceits. I will give a specimen or two^ that the reader may judge for himself. At feuillet. Ixxi, we have Ballade premier de la roze. Lan passe en terra gellee Ble fiit si rudement traicte. Que au ioiu-dhuy par la grande gelee Nous souffi'ons au ble la charte : Mais deuant que tout fut gaste, Dieu retint en certaine place. Centre froit qui cest trop haste La terre rendant ble de grace : Ceste terre nest point fouUee Ne fouye yuer ny este Le soleil ou pluye coulee Par grace ya tousiours este Son rayon dorient monte Grace sur elle centre la glace Garda par diuine bonte La terre rendant ble de grace. Par la terre ainsy desolee Vint fain au peuple supplian Pai' lautre ame est consolee Du ble que grace y a plante Ble en lyuer fut desplante Lautre est tousiours fertille et grasse ^ Preste a donner fruict a plante La terre rendant ble de grace. Renuoy. Prince le pain par vous gouste De son ble porte lefficace 126 ROUEN. your beloved objects of research ! I rather think, however, that it was not deficient in this popular class Qui preserua du froit doubte La terre rendant ble de ^ace M. Guillaume Thibault. Beneath a rondeau, by Guillaume Cretin, is the following — by the same hand : — Argumentum. Vng facteur fut Osrhan nomine Roy sur tons chantres renomme Qui feist en des partz trente six Vng motet tellement asseiz Quon ne veit oncq oeuure semblable A cleriei cbantre louable Premier queuoyer par chemin Le feist noter en parchemin Puys pour le chanter assembia Chantres auquelz tresbon sembla. Le facteur dieu nous signifie Son motet dont les partz ie nombre Ce sacre concept certifie Qui grace et vertus eut sans nombre. Le noteiu- et le parchemin Figurent Anne & loachin Verbes passrfz, pleurs manifestes Chantres, patriarches, prophetes Et les docteurs de saincte eglise Qui prouuent oeuure tresexquise Ceste vierge dont fut yssant lesu Christ sen resiouyssant fueiUet Ixxii. I may be pardoned for not giving more of the French .- the latter few leaves are devoted to Latin verse— somewhat more refreshing than the preceding : Thus : — " Quee est ista quee progreditur, quasi aurora consurgens. Cantkorum vi. cap. lam noua concipiens intaete exordia prolis, Pieria proferre tuba, atq ; decentibus orsis ROUEN. 127 of literature, if I am to judge from the specimens which are yet lingering, as it were, in the hands of the curi- ous. I ought rather to say, which are yet " extant" (certainly "^ not in choice print,") in the hands of the many. The gravity even of an archiepiscopal see could never repress the natural love of the French, from time immemorial, for light and fanciful reading. You know with what pertinacity I grope about old alleys, old courts, bye-lanes, and unfrequented corners — being like Harry Dyson of old, (according to Tom Hearne's account of him*) " a person of a very strange, prying, and inquisitive genius, in the matter of books" — in the search of what is curious, precious, and rare in the book way. But ere we touch that enchant- ing chord, let us proceed according to the plan laid down. First therefore for printing offices. Of these, the names of Periaux, (Imprimeur de VAcademie,) Hereo, cui liceat diuam conferre nitentem. An sit phas homiui, qua; iam superemiuet orbes : Etheris ardentis describere nubibus imbris Siue niui similem, plerumq ; nocentia terns Icta cadut. sed vb-go manet super astra salutem Terrigenum curans, ne non nocitura coercens. Ergo nee est nubes seu nix dicenda nee imber Virgo mihi. potius latijs aurora vocanda est Vocibus, etherei certissima nuncia solis. &c. &c. &c. Fo. Ixxvii. It is signed " Picardus laurea donatus." The whole volume con- tains 100 leaves. A wood cut of the Virgin and child within a glory ;, in the middle of an upright figure of a female, radiated, is on the reverse of the last leaf. Messrs. Arch, Booksellers, had a copy of this curious volume in their Catalogue of 1819, which was bound in blue morocco, marked at the price of Si. 8s. * See Bibliomania, p. 398. 128 ROUEN. Baudry, (Imprimeur du RoiJ Megard, (Rue Mar- tinville), and Lecrene-Labbey, (Imprhneur-Libralre et Marchand de Papier s) are masters of the principal presses ; but such is the influence of Paris, or of me- tropolitan fashions, that a pubHsher will sometimes prefer getting his work printed at the capital — and even the " Description Historique de VEglise Metro- politaine de Notre-Dame de Roiten (which I liave so frequently mentioned, and which is published by Frere, the most respectable bookseller at Rouen), was printed in the Metropolis. Of the foregoing printers, it behoves me to make some particular mention ; and yet I can speak personally but of two : Messieurs Periaux and Megard. M. Periaux is printer to the Academie des Sciences, Belles-Lettres et Arts de Rouen, of which academy, indeed, he is himself an accomplished member.* He is quick, intelligent, well-bred, and obliging to the last degree ; and may be considered the Harry Stephen of the Rouen Printers. He urged me to call often : but I could visit him only twice. Each time I found him in his * himself an accomplished Member.'] — In the sittings of the Society for August IS12, M. Periaux is announced as having communicated " un memoire rempli de recherches et d'erudition, dans lequel il examine cette question:" La Lune pascale doit elle etre appelUe Lune de Mars." En d'autres termes : Aquel mois solaire un mois lu- naire est-il cense appartenir?" Two of the Members pronounced a most faA'ourable eiilogy upon this ingenious performance — which is printed, and may be had of all the Rouen booksellers. M. Periaux is just now occupied in the laborious but useful task of giving a Guide or History of Rouen, according to the alphabetical order of the streets and public buildings, &c. ROUEN. 129 counting house, with his cap on— shading his eyes : a pen in his right hand, and a proof sheet in his left. Though he rejoiced at seeing me, I could discover (much to his praise) that, like Aldus, he wished me to " say my saying quickly ,"=^ and leave him to his deles and stets ! He has a great run of business, and lives in one of those strange, old-fashioned houses, in the form of a square, with an outside spiral staircase, so common in this extraordinary city. He introduced me to his son, an intelligent young man — ^well quali- fied to take the labouring oar, either upon the tem- porary or permanent retirement of his parent. M. P^riaux shewed me, with a conscious air of triumph, a map — printed with metal types within wood-cut de- markations of the different countries — and executed upon a scale which renders it rather an uncommon performance for the press. He has promised to pre- sent me with a copy of it— but I am not sure that I merit such a mark of his kindness. He was very anxious that I should make myself well acquainted Avith the locale of this city, and even penned down, as I told you, the several places I ought to visit, with an earnestness approaching to a command — that I should of necessity see them. Of Monsieur Megard, who may be called the an- cient Jenson, or the modern Buhner, of Rouen, I can speak only in terms of praise— both as a civil gentle- man and as a successfiil printer. He is doubtless the * like Aldus, "say my saying" quickly:] Consult Mr. Roscoe's Life of Leo X. vol. i. p. 169-70, 8vo. edit, Unger, in his Life of Aldus, edit. GereL p. xxxxii. has a pleasant notice of an inscription, to the same effect, put over the door of his printing office by Aldus, 130 ROUEN. most elegant printer in this city ; and being also a publisher, his business is very considerable. He makes his regular half yearly journeys among the neighbouring towns and villages, and as regularly brings home the fruits of his enterprise and indus- try. The approach to his premises, in the Rue Martinville, is sufficiently repulsive. In the usual manner, you pull a wire or string, and the door is opened by an invisible hand. You enter ; pass along a range of offices, where presses are at work; ascend a flight of steps in front ; enter the warehouse, filled with a large stock of common vendible books; and view, from the windows thereof, a beautiful portion of the south side of the Abbey of St. Ouen. Below, are a small court and garden ; such as would be considered of in- estimable value if adjoining the premises and appurte- nances of many of our London printers. If a large chimney, or a good part of a shabby old house were dis- placed, the view of the abbey, from this warehouse, would be perfectly enviable. On my first visit, M. Megaid was from home ; but Madame, " son epouse I'attendoit a chaque moment !" There is a particular class of women among the French, which is sin- gularlj intelligent, civil, and even well-bred. I mean the wives of the more respectable tradesmen. Thus I found it, in addition to a hundred similar previous instances, with Madame Megard. " Mais Monsieur, je vous prie de vous asseoir. Que voulez vous?" "I wish to have a little conversation with your husband. I am an enthusiastic lover of the art of printing. I search every where for skilful printers, and thus it is that I am in pursuit of Monsieur Megard." ROUEN. 131 An immediate declension of the eye-lids, accompa- nied with the most gentle obeisance, attested the sensibility of the wife to the just eulogy bestowed upon her husband. We both sat down and con- versed together; and I found in Madame Megard a middle-aged woman, and mother of several children,) a communicative, and well- instructed representative of the said ancient Jenson, or modern Buhner. — " Enfin, voila mon mari qui arrive" — said Madame, turning round, upon the opening of the door : — when I looked forward, and observed a stout man, rather above the middle size, with a countenance perfectly English — but accoutred in the dress of the national guard, with a huge grenadier cap upon his head. Madame saw my embarrassment : laughed : and in two minutes her husband knew the purport of my visit. He began by expressing his dislike of the military garb : but admitted the absolute necessity of adopting such a measure as that of embodying a national guard. " Soyez le bien venu : Ma foi, je ne suis que trop sensible. Monsieur, de I'honneur que vous me faites — vu que vous etes antiquaire typographique, et que vous avez public des ouvrages relatifs a notre art. Mais ce n'est pas ici qu'il faut en chercher de belles epreuves. C'est a Paris." I parried this delicate thrust by observing that I was well acquainted with the fine productions of D'ldot — and had also seen the less aspiring ones of himself — of which indeed I had reason to think his townsmen might be proud. This I spoke with the utmost sincerity. " But you are printer to his Grace the Archbishop !" " Yes, Sir." " I hope he is a patron 132 ROUEN. of the art, as well as a Cardinal of the see of Rome r" M. Megard hesitated. " But think of the ecclesias- tical patrons of typography, of old . Think of the Cardi- nals Bessarion,Campanus,andof the Bishop of Aleria." " C'est bien vrai, Monsieur, mais I'Arch^veque de Rouen n'est ni le Cardinal Bessarion ni TEveque d'Alerie !" — replied M. Megard with equal promptitude and dexterity. In short, I learnt that M. Megard had seen his patron but once ; at which interview it should seem that he had experienced ten times the reserve and formality which were ever displayed by the Popes Paul II. and Sixtus IV. towards Sweyn- heym and Pannartz, and John Philip de Lignaniine. I then bethought me of the " grosse machine de chair" of the Abbe T.* My first visit concluded with two elegant little book-presents, on the part of M. Megard — one being Heiires de Rouen, a Vusage du Diocese, 1814, 12mo. and the other Etrennes nou- velles commodes et utiles, 1815, 12mo. — the former bound in green morocco ; and the latter in calf, with gilt leaves, but printed on a sort of apricot-tinted paper — producing no unpleasing effect. Both are exceed- ingly well executed ; and which our Bensley or Bulmer might own without the least apricot-blush upon their cheek. My visits to M. Megard were rather frequent. He has a son at the College Royale, or Lycee, whither I accompanied him, one Sunday morning, and took the church of that establishment in the way. It is built entirely in the Italian style of architecture : is exceed- ingly spacious : has a fine organ, and is numerously attended. The pictures I saw in it, although by no * See page 68. ROUEN. 133 means of first-rate merit, quite convince me that it is in churches of Roman, and not of Gothic architecture, that paintings produce the most harmonious effect. This college and church form a noble establishment, situated in one of the most commanding eminences of the town. From some parts of it, the flying buttresses of the nave of the Abbey of St. Ouen, with the Seine at a short distance, surmounted by the hills and woods of Canteleu as a back ground, are seen in the most gloriously picturesque manner. But the printer who does the most business— or rather whose business lies in the lower department of the art, in bringing forth what our friend B. usually calls chap books— is Lecrene hABBEY—imprimeur- libraire et marchand de paplers. The very title im- ports a sort of Dan Newberry's repository. I believe however that Lecrene Labbey s business is much dimi- nished. He once lived in the Rue de la Grosser Horloge, No. 12: but at present carries on trade in one of the out-skirting streets of the town. I was told that the premises he now occupies were once an old church or monastery, and that a thousand fluttering sheets were now suspended where formerly was seen the solemn procession of silken banners, with religious emblems emblazoned in colours of all hues. 1 called however at the old shop, and supplied myself with a dingy copy of the Catalogue de la Bihliotheque Bleue *— from which catalogue however I could pur- * Catalogue de la Bibliotheque Bleue qui se trouve chez Lecr^ne- Labbey, Imprimeur—Libraire et Marchand de Papiers, rue de la Grosse Horloge, No. 12, d Rmen. Such is the title. I select a few of the 134 ROUEN. chase but little : as the greater part of the older books, several of the Caxtonian stamp, had taken their de- more curious works, desiderated more particularly by the Roxhurghers, and by collectors of our ancient literature. It wiU be seen that, what was popular in Caxton's timcj is yet sought after at the opening of the xixth century. The following at 4 liv. 16 sous the dozen: Calendrier du Berger, fig. (Our old Shepherd's Calendar: see Typog. Antiq. vol. ii. p. 616.) GalUen Restaur e, fig, Huon de Bor- deaux, premier et seconde parties. Les quatre Fils Aymon. Wood cut frontispiece opposite the title-page: pp. 152, large 8vo. Noels, d IGfeuilles. Valentin et Orson. I purchased a copy of this edition, as well as of " The Four Sons of Aymon" just noticed. It is a large, and closely printed octavo volmue of 1 66 pages. When we consider that a dozen of such books as these may be had for about 4s. EngUsh, one cannot help contrasting it with the very dear terms upon which a similar set of books would be purchased in our own country. I apprehend that a volume, like either of those here last noticed, could not possibly be sold under Is. 6d. : thus raising the sum of a dozen copies to little short of that of four times beyond what is given abroad. I proceed leisurely with a few others at Four livres 4 sous the dozen. Conquetes de Charlemagne — which I presume to be the Life of Charlemain, as originally printed in the xvth century, and from which our Caxton published his version : see Typ. Antiq. vol. i. p. 255. Cuisinier Franfais. MarMial expert, nouvelle edition, figures neuves. I obtained a copy of this latter work, which is a small, but full- printed, octavo of 152 pages. The "figures" are sufficiently mise- rable ; but I could not help smiUng to observe, with all the veterinary quackery of the present day, a few of the old maxims of Dame Juliana Berners' Book of Hunting, &c. engrafted upon the text of this work. Thus, at page 11 we read : ROUEN. 135 partures. It was from this Catalogue that I learnt the precise character of the works destined for vulgar reading, and from hence inferred, what I stated to you a little time ago, that Romances, Rondelays, and chivalrous stories, are yet read with pleasure, if not wit havidity, by the good people of France. It is, in short, from this lower, or lowest species of literature — Des marques que doivent avoir les bons Chevaux. Si til veux bon Cheval, qui longueinent te serve, Trends sur-tout le brun bai, et soigneux le conserve; Le grison n'est mauvais ; mais on repute beau Le cheval quand il est de toutes parts moreau. Si pour les tiens et toi tu veux avoir monture, Choisis sur-tout le blanc, car longueinent il dure. Le cheval doit avoir des marques distingu^es, tant pour la bont^ que pour la beaut^. II doit tenir de la Femrae, du Boeuf, du Renard, et du Cerf. De la Femme. Qu'il soit doux au montoir, beau de devant, et belle chevelure de crin. Dm Bmif. Qu'il ait les yeix beaux et gros, I'eneolure belle, et qu'il soit bien relev^. Dm Renard. Qu'il ait beau trot, les oreilles petites et belles, la queue grande et toussue. Du Cerf. Qu'il ait les jambes sfeches, qu'il soit bien relev^ du devant, qu'il ait la t^te s^che. Consult Typog. Antiq. vol, ii. p. 55-9, for something like a similar description in the work of Dajie Juliana Berners. This book has some wretched wood cuts in the first part. The second part exhibits, in the title page, the dead stag, with his heels upwards, fastened to a pole — as we see it in some of the more ancient works upon hunting. This second part is devoted to " Plusieurs Recettes, Approuv^es du Sieur d L'Espiney, Gentilhomme Perigourdin, pour toutes les maladies et accidens qui arrivent aux Chevaux." This second part is composed of 76 pages : the first, of 80. VOL. I. I 136 ROUEN. if it must be so designated — that we gather the real genius, or mental character, of the ordinary classes of society. I do assure you that some of these chap publications are singularly droll and curious. Even the very rudiments of learning, or the mere alphabet- book, meets the eye in a very imposing manner. Let me send you the following specimen, being the first page of a little religious manual, of which the press of M. Megard has not disdained to throw off a few copies UPON VELLUM. You will observe from hence how carefully, and at what a tender age, the forms of tlie Roman Catholic religion are impressed upon the minds of youth. No child ever enters a place of wor- ship without making the form of a cross upon his bi-east — which -custom, as you will observe by the red cross in the specimen here sent, he has been taught in the very elements of his education. In other respects, there is little difference in the formularies, or elemen- tary treatises, of both countries. Chap books at 3 livres 12 sous the dozen. Ancien Testament. Aventurier Buscon. Figures de la Bible. Grande Danse Macabre. Jig. ( From the celebrated old work under that name.) Histoire de Fortunatus. Palais des Curieux. Recueil de Chansons. At 3 livres the dozen. Les Loisirs des jolies Femmcs, on Recueil d'ariettes nouvelles. Pro- pheties de Moult, edit, ample. LAmant de Jesus. Doctrinal de Sa- pience. (Caxton's original: see Typ. Antiq. vol. i. p. '266.) Purgatoire de St. Patrice, fig. Recueil de Chansons, &c. &c. &c. The Purgatory of St. Patrick was out of print. I sought for it every where, in vain : but they endeavoured to console me by the assurance that a new, and improved edition had been long in contemplation. ROUEN. 137 ^In nomine Patris, & Pllii, "f ^ & fpiritus fancti. Amen* -f- •^ ^^^^ A a b c d ♦ •^ ^^T^ efghik^ 1^1 • ImnopI I^^^^V qrfstu| •3$^ V X y z & -^ •^ a e 1 o u m 11 f t ct fi fi ^ I fl fl ffl ffi ffi ^ oe. I •f" L'Oraiion Dominicale. -f •^ , '^ t'D Ater nofter , f- -^ I . . -^ ^ qui es m coe- ^ ^ lis , lanctihce- ^ ^ tur nomen tiuim , ^ Z/Ot-e, Marriage, and Confession, are fertile themes for dissemination by means of these little farthing chap books. Whether such fugitive and superficial pieces ever find their way into the boudoirs of respecta- ble families, I will not, as a traveller, have the teme- rity to affirm : but that they are familiar to the middling and lower orders of society, is palpable from almost every lounge which you take in the streets. Yonder sits a fille de chambre, after her work is done. She is 138 ROUEN. intent upon some little manual, taken from the Blb- liotheque Bleue. Approach her, and ask her for a sight of it. She smiles, and readily shews you Cate- chisme a V usage des Grandes Filles pour itre Marlies ; ensemble la maniere d'attirer les Amans.* At the * The character of the lower classes, and even frequently of the upper classes, of society " takes its form and pressure" from these juvenile manuals of moral and social instruction. It is with this view only that I venture to submit to the reader a specimen or two taken, first, from the Cat^chisme des Amans, par Demandes &; Reponses, ou sont enseignees les principales inaximes de V amour, &; le devoir d'un veri- table Amant. A Rouen, chez Lecr4ne-Lahbey, &c. DIALOGUE. I. VAmante. Estes vous amant? L^ Amant. Oui, par la faveur de Cupidon. L'Amante. Qu'est ce qu'un Amant ? V Amant. C'est une personne qui ayant fait une sincere & veritable declaration, chercheles moyens d'etre aimee de I'objet quelle aime. DIALOGUE IL L'Amante. Quels sont les signes d'un veritable amant ? L' Amant. C'est I'assiduite, la complaisance, la sinc^rite, I'exacti- tude & le billet tendre L'Amante. Qu'est-ce que la sincerity ? L' Amant. C'est une grande conformity entre ce que nous voulons ex^cuter. L'Amante. Qu'entendez-vous par ce mot executer? L' Amant. J'entends parler d'une diligence perpetueUe "k faire ce que nous avons promis a I'objet que nous aimons, & a chercher I'occa- sion de lui t^moigner notre inclination & notre zMe. L'Amante. Qu'entendez-vous par le billet tendre ? L' Amant. Un petit compliment par ^crit que nous envoyons k nos Maitresses, quand nous ne pouvons pas trouver I'occasion de les entretenir. ROUEN. 139 first glance of it, you suppose that this is entirely, from beginning to end, a wild and probably somewhat in- L'Jmante. En quel temps, en quel lieu & b. quelle heure le faut-il f aire ? L'Amant. Le matin lorsqu'on est leve, le soir auparavant de se coucher^ quand on entre dans son cabinet^ & quand on se trouve pressd de quelque jalousie - • DIALOGUE V. L'Amante A quel &ge peut-on commencer h. faire 1' amour? L'Amant. Les garfons k quatorze ans, les fiUes a douze, selon que Ton est avance pour son age. L'Amante. Comment faut-il qu'un amant se comporte quand il commence k faire 1' amour ? L Amant. II faut premiferement qu'il sache ce que doit faire un veritable amant, qu'il n'ignore pas la difference qu'il y a entre les complimens des grands & des petits. DIALOGUE VL LAmante. Combien y a-t-il de bonheurs en amour pour rendre un Amant heureux ? L Amant. II y en a sept, L'Amante. Enseignez-les moi done. L'Amant. 1 . Heureux sont les Amans qui aiment v^ritablement, car les plaisirs de I'Amour ne sont pas sensibles k ceux qui n'en sont que m^diocrement touches. 2. Heureux sont les Amans sains & vigoureux, car ils sont aim^s longtems, & sont les plus consider^s. 3. Heureux sont les Amans qui aiment veritablement k rire, car il y a du sujet de s'affliger en I'amour, sans y joindre le temp^ramment. 4. Heureux sont les amans qui ont de 1' esprit, car ils goMent des plaisirs que les niais ne ressentent pas. 5. Heureux sont les Amans qui ont de la patience, car il est trhs- difficile de trouver une Maitresse qui accorde au premier moment ce qu'un Amant desire. 140 ROUEN. decorous manual of instruction. By no means ; tor read the very devout Litanies and Prayer with which it 6. Heureux sont les Amans riches, car 1 amour aime la depense. 7. Heureux sont les Amans sans rivaux, car ils possedent seals les bonnes graces de leurs Maitresses. Oraison tres-utilc a une Jille qui desire dtre pourvue comme ilfaut du Sacrement de Manage. Men Dieu, qui avez cr^^ le genre humain pour benir votre nom adorable, & qui lui avez donn^ par la source feconde du sacrement de Mariage, une voie legitime pour dteindre le feu de la concupiscence, & en meme temps multiplier 3 je aous addresse mes voeux du plus profond de mon coeurs, afin qu'il vous plaise me remplir d'une vertu vivifiante, qui me rende capable de produire du fruit de I'union con- jugale, & me donner uu Epoux qui ait toutes les qualites n^cessaires pour s'acquitter dignement des voeux du Mariage C'est, mon Dieu, ce que je vous demande de toute mon ame avec les derni^res instances j regardez done en pitie votre trbs humble servante N. It is observ able, from hence, how litte the French character has altered. In the copper plates to the better editions of their pas- toral and love poets, upwards of a century ago, we obser\'e young ladies and young gentlemen, of fourteen and twelve years, with their brows encircled by wreaths of flowers, reclining upon grass banks, and enacting the parts of passionate lovers. The same thing is observed in their modern productions. I now proceed, in the second place, to a specimen or two from the Cat^chisme a V Usage des Grandes Filles pour ^tre marines j Ensemble la maniere d'attirer les Amans. Par Demandes ^ Reponses. A Rouen chez Lecr^ne-Labbey, &c. Demande. Quel est le Sacrement le plus n^cessaire aux grandes Filles ? R^ponse. C'est le Mariage. D. A quel 4ge doit on marier les Filles ? R. Selon comme elles sont belles. D. Les plus beUes, a quel S.ge faut-il les marier ? R. C'est ordinairement a seize & dix huit ans. ROUEiV. 141 concludes, and which I here send — for your gratifica- tion, however transient. I admit that it is a strange mixture of the simple and serious. LITANIES Pour toutes les Filles qui dcsirent entrer en menage, Kyrie, je voudrois, ChristCj etre marine. Kyrie, je prie tous les Saints, Christe, que ce soit demain. Sainte Marie, tout le Monde se marie. Saint Joseph, que vous ai-je fait? Saint Nicolas, ne m'oubliez pas. Saint Mederie, quej'aie un bon mari. Saint Matthieu, qu'ilcraigne Dieu. Saint Jean, qu'il m'aime tendrement. Saint Bruno, qu'il soit joli & beau. Saint Francois, qu'il me soit fidele. Saint Andi^, qu'il soit k mon gre. Saint Didier, qu'il aime k travailler. Saint Honord, qu'il n'aime pas a jouer. Saint Severin, qu'il n'aime pas le vin. Saint Clement qu'il soit diligent. Saint Sauveur, qu'il ait bori ccEur. Saint Nicaise, que je sois a mon aise. Saint Josse, qu'il me donne un carosse. Saint Boniface, que mon manage se fasse. Saint Augustin, dbs demain matin. Oraison. Seigneur, qui avez foniie Adam de la terre, and qui lui avez donnd Eve pour sa compagne ; envoyez-moi, s'il vous plait, un bon mari pour compagnon, hon pour la volupt^j, mais pour vous honorer & avoir des enfants qui vous benissent. Ainsi soit il. D. Pourquoi k cet &ge ? R. De peur qu'il n'arrive quelque inconvenient k leur honneur. D. Mais celles qui ne sent pas belles, k quel ^e faut-il done les marier ? 142 ROUEN. Among the books of this class, before alluded to, I purchased a singularly amusing little manual called R, Aussit6t que les Garcons les demandent, pour ne jias perdre la bonne occasion. D. Quand une Fille n'a point d'Amant, comment faut-il faire pour en avoir ? R, II y a plusieurs moyens pour s'en procurer. D. Quels sont ces moyens ? E. Premi^rement, il faut avoir la sagesse & la modestiej se- condement, etre bonne m^nagfere, bien actionn^e ^ son occupation k son travail •■, troisifemement, 6tre bien propre dans ses habillements, dans son linge & dans sa chambre ; quatri^mement, ne pas. s'aviser de porter plus que son ^tat ne permet, car c'est le moyen de les ren- voyer, plut6t que de les attirer. D. Quand une Fille a un Amant bien a son gr ROUEN. 173 The Descent of the Holy Ghost is rather boldly represented by flames of fire issuing- from the opened mouth of the Dove. In the whole, there are only eight illuminations ; of which three are composed of figures, and of these the third represents the Death of the Virgin. The vellum is thick, but soft: and though this volume, on the score of graphic beauty, be inferior to the preceding, yet is it a most interesting and vene- rable relic of ancient art. The Abbe Gourdin says, that " it was reported that some of our countrymen had offered as much as 15,000 francs for this volume :" but I consider this report as exceedingly questionable. The Missal, which is in every respect a more market- able article, may be worth one-seventh of that sum. Of the remaining MSS. there was little or nothing (on the score of art, antiquity, or intrinsic worth) in those which I saw, that much interested me ; and when I expressed a desire to make further and minute researches, I learnt, with equal surprise and sorrow, that they wanted both room and opportunity to exa- mine upwards of eight hundred yet uninspected MSS. In other words, they want finances ; for the reading- room itself, with appropriate shelves, might contain the whole of these unexamined volumes very commo- diously. However, you shall have the fruits of a little more gleaning among illuminated MSS. An Ovid MORALIZED, in Frcuch, in one large folio written in double columns, in a small close gothic character, is no contemptible volume for a short half hour's amusement. This volume is evidently much cropt. The illuminations are precisely similar, in style and 174 ROUEN. colour, to those of the Roman cC Alexandre — before so copiously expatiated upon:* the back grounds are diamond-wise : the figures are of the same height ; but there are no drolleries ; and upon the whole fewer embel- lishments. One illumination is worth noticing. It is a representation of fortune, blinded, in the middle of her wheel — around which are four figures : a king at top, and a naked figure at bottom. At folio 59, recto, from the commencement of the text, which begins thus : — after 13 leaves of table : Se lescripture ne nous ment Tout est pour nre enseignement Qii quit a en liures escript Solent hon ou mal li escript. There is at bottom an escutcheon of arms, five balls argent, upon a ground azure. At the end of the MS., which is much soiled, we read Explicit Cifinent les fables douide le grant. Another MS. worth noticing, is that entitled Livre HiSTORiAL des faits de feu Messire Betrand du GuESCLiN jadis connetahle du Royaume de France'' This interesting volume was given to the library by the Abb6 Des Jardins, a canon of the cathedral of Rouen, in 1640. A note prefixed by Saas is wrong, according to M. Gourdin, who refers to hehong&BlbLHistorlque, art. 13495-6. This MS. is executed in a coarse Gothic hand, in prose ; and has the following colophon : En vng teps qui a yuer n5 Ou chastel royal de vernon Qui ist aux chaps & la ville * Bibliogr. Decameron ^ vol. i. p. cxcviii. ROUEN. 175 Fist iehannet destoutenville Au dit chastel lors capitaine Aussi de vernomel sur saine Et du roy escuier de corps Mectre en prose \h me recors Ce liure cy extrait de rime Complet en mars dix & neufuieme Qui de Ian la date ne sect Mil. ccc. quatre vins & sept. This volume is in good condition ; and is bound in boards covered with red velvet. I examined also a curious old volume of various tracts, which is bound in wood ; having in the centre, on each side, a large fi- gure, about nine inches high, carved in ivory. This volume is called the Ivory JBooA:— and may be of the xivth century. I was well satisfied with turning over the leaves of an old volume of Homilies and Sennons, some of them of St. Jerom, of the xiith century ; hav- ing two or three ancient and well-executed grotesque capital initials ; of which the M. and P. struck me as being admirably imagined. From MSS. it is natural to go to Printed Books. When I first took my station among the students, I was much amused on finding, at my left hand, my old friend the porter, or Cicerone, gravely sitting, with " spectacles on nose", intent upon a modern publication —which was entitled, I think, " Precis de la Revolution Francoise." The generality of the students, few in num- ber, were not remarkable for a very spruce exterior — in- cluding even the venerable head Librarian himself : but they sometimes compensate for these outward defi- ciences by the respectability and utility of their pur- suits. Thus, I saw a dingy looking young man con- 176 ROUEN. suiting with facility the Arabic Lexicon of Castell, to assist him in the perusal of a large Latin and Arabic folio: while to my right sate an ancient gentleman, busied in a careful examination of the " Index Chronolo- gicus" of Bouquet's Recueil des Historiens des Gaules. But this is very immaterial — and we go at once to the hoht^ : especially to the Fifteeners. The oldest work they possess, of the xvth century, is Sti. Jeronimi Epistol^ : printed hy Siveynheym and Pannartz in 1468, 2 vols, folio. A fair copy, but cropt — in its second binding, and wormed a little at the end. S. AuGUSTiNUs DE CiviTATE Dei, printed hy J. de Spira in 1470, folio. The largest and finest copy I ever saw of this not very uncommon book. It is in its original binding, with many rough leaves. Manipulus Curatorum, printed hy Cassaris only, (without his partner Stol) in 1473, at Paris, folio. A very early specimen of the press of this printer : but unluckily this is a very bad copy. Speculum Historiale Vincentii Bellovacensis, printed hy Mentelin in 1473, in four folio volumes : the name of the printer in each volume. This copy is much cropt, and soiled. ZopHiLOLOGiUM, cditum afratre Jacoho Magin de Parisius ordinis heremitarum sti Augustini.JinitJ'eli- cifer (sic. J This is a folio volume, without date — distinguishable for the peculiar formation of the letter R; but respecting the name of the printer, all en- quiries have been hitherto fruitless. Look into the first volume of the Bibl. Spenceriana, and you will find a fac- simile of this long-legged letter. Together with ROUEN. 177 this work is bound an edition of the Three Kings of Cologne, printed by Guldens chaiffm 1477, in his best manner. The copy is too much cropt. Tractatus de Questionibus sec. Balbum. Print- ed at Partis, in 1477, 4to. without name of printer. To me, this type is perfectly new — as a Parisian produc- tion. It resembles the small and earlier type of Pyn- son ; but is certainly the model upon which Vostre, Eustace, and Bonfons, &c. formed their character. Perhaps it may have been executed by the printer of the Chronique de St. Denis, in three folio volumes, 1476. Justin us. Printed hy Philip Condam Petri, in 1479, folio. This is the earliest printed Classic in the library: but as a specimen of ancient and valuable printing, it is scarcely worth more than a Napoleon or two. * BiBLiA Sacra. Latine. Printed hy Koherger in 1480. This is their earliest Bible. They ought to have one eighteen years earlier. Take eighteen from 1480, and there remains the number 1462. You un- derstand me. La Vie des Peres, 1486, folio. An indifferent copy. M. Gourdin thinks that this is the first and only edition of the work in the xvth century — but " il se trompe." CicERONis Epistol^ Familiares. Printed in 1488. The earliest Cicero of the xvth century. There are libraries, private as well as public, which contain a few more Fifteeners of the same author ! We may notice, en passant, the Legenda Aurea of 1486, La Mer des Histoires, by my old friend Philip 178 ROUEN. Le Rouge, in 1488, a Catholicon of 1489, and Le SoNGE Du Verdier, 1491 : the latter the ^rst edition. I tried to get a sight of the Sacramento de la peni- TENciA, printed at Seville in 1492 ; but M. Fossard, whose attentions were unremitting, and whose manual exertions covered him with dust and cobwebs, was not able to lay his hand upon it. A word now re- specting Missals and Breviaries appertaining to the church service at Rouen. They have a " ruled and washed" paper copy of the Missal, printed at Paris, in 1491, folio ; and also of the Breviary, printed at Paris by Levet, for Bernard, a Rouen bookseller, in the same year : folio. Also an edition of the Breviary in 1491, printed at Rouen. But the folio editions hy Morin, in 1495 and 1499, are glorious volumes — especially as they are printed upon vellum. The former is soiled from much thumbing: the latter is fresh, beautiful, and splendid : presenting us with a magnificent title-page. They have a duplicate of the latter, equally fine, and also upon vellum : with a difference in the title-page, it being ornamented at bottom. There is, however, a MS. leaf in the middle of this second copy. An edi- tion of the JVinter Part of the Cathedral Service at Rouen, printed by Jean de Bourgoys, in 1492, 8vo. UPON vellum, exhibits a beautiful specimen of print- ing ; but the copy is rather cropt. We may vary our book subject by a notice or two of Aldine Classics. There is a good, clean, but cropt copy of the first Theocritus, 1495 : a desirable, clean copy of the Aristophanes of 1498 : a sound, clean, and perfect copy of the Epistoloe- Diversor. Philos. et ROUEN. 179 Orator. 1499, 4to. and a very good copy of the second Demosthenes, of 1504. But the whole of these form nothing to boast of. I shall conclude my remarks among the Fifteeners, by mentioning HoRATius, 1492 : 1498, folio. The former has the commentaries of Aero and Porphyrio: the latter has the well known wood-cut decorations : but, singularly enough, a figure seems wanting in the middle com- partment at folio Ixxxix. As well as I could estimate, there are about 245 articles printed in the xvth cen- tury, with dates ; and about 88 articles in the same century without dates. But the character and com- plexion of these Fifteeners are, upon the whole, of a very secondary nature. Indeed, two-thirds of them may be easily dispensed with. Of the more rare and curious articles in the sixteenth century, I noticed only the following : ' Victoria Porcheti adversus impios Hebr^eos, &c. 1520. A beautiful small folio, printed by Des- plain for Gourmont and Regnault, upon vellum. It came from the library of the Abbey of Jumieges. Flos Sanctorum. Toledo, 1582, folio. A curious volume ; abounding with legendary tales of consider- able interest — as Mr. Southey, in his occasional re- ferences to it, has given us opportunities of knowing. Acta Sanctorum, 52 volumes : including a portion of the month of October. A very desirable copy, in nice old calf binding, with gilt tooling. Upon the whole, they reckon upon about 20,000 volumes in the public library. Alas ! it was once of far greater extent. During the Revolution, they could boast of about 250,000 volumes ; but a considerable 180 ROUEN. portion of this vast number was pillaged from the libraries of the Emigrants. These however have been partly restored to their respective owners. Yet during that maddest of all manias, the revolutionary mania, they sold the gi-eater part of this library for the paltry sum of 20,000 francs, and not fewer than 10,000 vo- lumes are supposed to have been publicly burnt in the Place des Carmes . . . within fifty yards of the very spot whence this account of it is penned ! Do I still sniff the heart sickening odour of the fire and smoke of this almost sacrilegious conflagration? How many unique Mysteries, Romances, and Chronicles, were possibly destroyed at that eventful crisis ? A word now only respecting xhejincmces of this public libraiy. The last year 1000 francs — only — were expended upon it. It was all they could spare. But what can you expect — when I learnt, at the last seance of their Royal Aca- demy, (in reply to some official questions from the Minister of the Interior) that the annual funds of the society consisted only of 1800 francs ? I attended two Meetings of this Society — which can boast of some very intelligent clever members. They meet once a week, on a Friday, at six o'clock, and terminate the sitting at eight. M. Vitalis, who took the chair of the President, understands English well, and is a very well-informed and respectable man. He gave me a good notion of the French gentleman of former times. There were about thirty Members pre- sent. Excellent order was observed, and some dis- cussions took place, in the shape of debates, which were conducted with equal temper and spirit. I heard a paper read relating to some travels in the alpine ROUEN. 181 parts of Italy, undertaken with a view to botanical re- searches, which was justly commended. Indeed bo- tany is a favourite subject with nearly all the Members of the Society: but I hope good M. Le Prevost will never lose sight of local Antiquities — in every point of view in which it is capable of affording equal instruc- tion and delight. What a volume they might produce connected with their own city ! They print, but do not publish, an analytical abridgment of the Transactions of the Society ;* and I should tell you that, had it it not been for the kind activity of M. Le Prevost, I should never have procured for Lord Spencer a perfect copy of these Memoirs — upwards of fifteen volumes in octavo. In the Althorp Library such a work is absolutely necessary : the more so, as I understood, when I left England, that neither the British Museum nor the Bodleian Library possessed a perfect set. * Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society.'] — The History of these Memoirs is briefly this. The Society was established in 1744 ; and a '' Precis Analytique" of its labours, from the date of its foundation to the year of its restoration in 1803, was published in the years 1814, 1816, and 181 7. These three volumes comprehend its history in the following manner : that of 1814, called the 1st volume, gives the his- tory from 1744 to 1750: that of 1816, from 1751 to 1760: and that of 1817 " from 1761 to 1770." What became of the History from the year 1770 to the period of its interruption by the Revolution •^— or whether it ceased in the year 177*^ — I am unable to mention ; as a supposed perfect copy of these Transactions, supplied by the kindness of M. Le Prevost, only furnishes me with a resumption of the labours of the Academy in 1804. These were published in I8O7. From this latter period, that is from 1804, the series goes in a regular succession down to the year 1815 — the account of the transactions in one year being regularly published in the year following. Thus, including the three volumes published in 1814, 1816^ and 1817* supplying an abridged 182 ROUEN. Farewell now to Rouen. I have told you all the tellings which I thought worthy of communication. I history of the labours up to the year 1 770, there will be sixteen vo- lumes in the whole. The work is published in an octavo form, upon an indifferent paper, and is indifferently printed. The title is uni- formly thus : " Precis Analytique des Travaux de VAcademie Royale des Sciences, des Belles Lettres et des Arts de Rouen." " De I' Imp. de P. Periaux, Imprimeur du Roi et de VAcademie." There are no en- gravings — but those which are tabidated, displaying the results of certain calculations and experiments. The generality of the commu- nications are abridged j but there are several " M^moires dont I'Aca- d^mie a delib^r(^ de T impression en entier dans ses Actes." These communications, like those of our Royal Society's Transactions, are al- most entirely scientific. Chemistry, Botany, and Medicine are in high request among the Rouennois, In the last volume, published in 18I7> giving an account of the la- bours of the preceding year, the stream of usual information is diverted a little into pohtical channels— all about Louis Le Desire'. The French are admirable masters of quick transition. Thus, upon the in- auguration of the bust of Louis XVIII., M. Gourdin, the President, '' pronounces a discourse" beginning thus — '' Messieurs, la c^r^- monie qui nous rassemble aujourd'hui est egalement auguste et touchante. Elle est auguste, puisqu'il s'y agit de I'inauguration du buste de notre Monarque : eUe est touchante, puisque ce sont des enfans reunis autour de I'image de leur pere pour lui payer le tribut de leur amour. C'est done une fete de famUIe. Ah ! Messieurs, qu'elle est douce pour nos coeurs!" — This is foUowed by yet more ardent and more encomiastic language by " M. Boistard, Ing^nieur en chef, chevalier de I'Ordre royal de la Legion d'Honneur," which concludes with " Vivent les Bourbons ! Vive le Roi ! . . , . Vive le Roi ! Vivent les Bourbons!" My worthy acquaintance M. Duputel — of whose privately-printed lucubrations of the muse, honourable mention has been made in a preceding page, has followed up these testimo- nies of loyalty in prose, by the effusions of his own muse — entitled and beginning thus : ROUEN. 183 have endeavoured to make you saunter with me in the streets, in the cathedral, the abbey, and the churches. We have, in imagination at least, strolled together along the quays, visited the halls and public build- ings, and gazed with rapture from Mont Ste. Ca- tharine upon the enchanting view of the city, the river, and the neighbouring hills. We have from hence breathed almost the pure air of heaven, and surveyed a country equally beautified by art, and blessed by nature. Our hearts, from that same height, have wished all manner of health, wealth, and pros- perity, to a land thus abounding in corn and wine, and oil and gladness. We have silently, but sincerely prayed, that swords may for ever be " turned into plough-shares, and spears into pruning-hooks" : — that all heart-burnings, antipathies, and animosities, may be eternally extinguished ; and that, from henceforth, there may be no national rivalries but such as tend to establish, upon a firmer footing, and a more com- prehensive scale, the peace and happiness of fellow- creatures, of whatever persuasion they may be: — of such, who sedulously cultivate the arts of individual HoMMAGE A Louis le DbsiRE'. Idylle, Vous, du docte Parnasse et 1' amour et I'honneur, Au son de la trompette, Des vertus de Louis cel^brez la grandeur; Une simple musette Sied mieux a mon esprit, et plait mieux k men coeur, &c. &c. &c. I apprehend there are no similar specimens in the printed Memoirs of our own Societies . . . .But what then ? 184 ROUEN. and of national improvement, and blend the duties of social order with the higher calls of morality and religion. Ah! my friend, these are neither foolish thoughts nor romantic wishes. They arise naturally in an honest heart, which, seeing that all creation is animated and upheld by one and the same power, cannot but ardently hope that all may be equally benefitted by a reliance upon its goodness and bounty. From this eminence we have descended somewhat into humbler walks. We have visited hospitals, strolled in flower-gardens, and associated with publishers and collectors of works — both of the dead and the living. Hence we have diverged to witness the silent, and yet eloquent relics of ancient art ; from the chissel of the sculptor, to the pencil of the illuminator ; and aulb hokt^, like " aultl ian0 ^pne," have comforted us in our latter and more congenial researches. So now, fare you well. Commend me to your family and to our common friends, — especially to the "^OXbWC^tt^, should they perchance enquire after their wandering Vice President. Many will be the days passed over, and many the leagues traversed, ere I meet them again. No Clarendon festivals for me, till the year of our Lord 1819 ! Again adieu ! . . . I have hired a decent cabriolet, a decent pair of horses, and a yet more promising pos- tilion ; and within twenty- four hours my back will be more decidedly turned upon "dear old England" — for that countiy, in which her ancient kings once held dominion, and where every square mile (I had almost said acre) is equally interesting to the anti- quary and the agriculturist. I salute you wholly, and am vours ever. 185 LETTER X. DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. ST. GEORGES DE BOCHER- VILLE. DUCLAIR. MARIVAUX. THE ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. ARRIVAL AT CAUDEBEC. MY DEAR FRIEND. May, 1818. My last letter led you to expect that, in spite of all its grotesque beauties and antiquarian attractions, the CITY OF ROUEN was at length to be quitted — and that we were to pursue our route more in the character of independent travellers, in an hired cabriolet. No more Diligence, or Condiicteur. Our own sagacity and prudence, aided by that of the garcon de poste, were henceforth to be our sole guides. Adieu therefore to dark avenues, gloomy courts, overhanging roofs, nar- row streets, cracking whips, the never-ceasing noise of carts and carriages, and never-ending movements of countless masses of population : — Adieu ! — and in their stead, welcome be the winding road, the fertile mea- dow, the thickly-planted orchard, and the broad and sweeping Seine. Accordingly, on the 4th of this month, between the hours of ten and eleven, A. M. the rattling of horses' hoofs, and the echoes of a postillion's whip, were heard within the court-yard of the H6tel Vatel. Monsieur, Madame, Jacques, and the whole fraternity of domes- tics, were on the alert — " pour faire les adieu x a Messieurs les Anglois." This Jacques has been al- ready incidentally noticed. He is the prime minister of VOL. I. M 186 DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. the Hotel Vatel. A somewhat uncomfortable deten- tion in England for five years, in the character of " prisoner of war," has made him master of a pretty quick and ready utterance of common-place phrases in our language ; and he is not a little proud of his attainments therein. Seriously speaking, I consider him quite a phenomenon in his way ; and it is right you should know that he affords a very fair specimen of a sharp, clever, French servant. His bodily move- ments are nearly as quick as those of his tongue. He rises, as well as his brethren, by five in the morn- ing; and the testimonies of this early activity are quickly discovered in the unceasing noise of beating coats, singing French airs, and scolding the boot- boy. He rarely retires to rest before mid-night ; and the whole day long he is in one eternal round of occu- pation. When he is bordering upon impertinence, he seems to be conscious of it — declaring that " the Eng- lish make him saucy, but that naturally he is very civil." He always speaks of human beings in the neu- ter gender ; and to a question whether such a one has been at the Hotel, he replies, " I have not seen if. to- day." I am persuaded he is a thoroughly honest crea- ture ; and considering the pains which are taken to spoil him, it is surprising with what good sense and propriety he conducts himself. But to return. The whole complement of inn- door occupants, including even visitors, attended our departure. " Au plaisir de vous revoir" — " Bon voyage" — and other similar exclamations resounded on all sides — when, about eleven o'clock, we sprung for- ward, at a smart trot, towards the barriers by which DEPARTURE FROM ROUEN. 187 we had entered Rouen. Our postillion was a thorough master of his caUing, and his spurs and whip seemed to know no cessation from action. The steeds, per- fectly Norman, were somewhat fiery ; and we rattled along the streets, (for the pave never causes the least abatement of pace with the French driver) in high expectation of seeing a thousand rare sights ere we reached Havre — equally the Mniits of our journey, and of our contract with the owner of the cabrio- let. That accomplished antiquary, M. Le Prevost, whose name you have often heard, had furnished me with so dainty a bill of fare, or carte de voyage, that I began to consider each hour lost which did not bring us in contact with some architectural relic of anti- quity, or some elevated position — whence the wander- ing Seine and wooded heights of the adjacent countiy might be surveyed with equal advantage. You have often, I make no doubt, my dear friend, started upon something like a similar expedition : — when the morning has been fair, the sun bright, the breeze gentle, and the atmosphere clear. In such moments how the ardour of hope takes possession of one! — How the heart warms, and the conversation flows ! The barriers are approached ; we turn to the left, having the Grande Route du Havre rather before us, and commence our journey in good earnest. Pre- viously to gaining the first considerable height, you pass the village of Canteleu. This village is exceed- ingly picturesque. It is studded with water-mills, and is enhvened by a rapid rivulet, which empties itself, in a serpentine direction, into the Seine. You now begin to ascend a very commanding eminence ; at the top of 188 ROUEN TO HAVRE. which are scattered some of those country houses which are seen from Mont Ste. Catharine. The road is of a noble breadth. The day warmed — and we dismounted to let our steeds breathe more freely, as we continued to ascend leisurely. Mr. Lewis ran on before ; took a position, — with the magnificent sweep of the river, and the towers and spires of Rouen at a little distance before him — and drawing forth his ready pencil, trans- ferred, in a fit of extacy, the whole of the enchanting scene * into his sketch-book. I send it you : matured and mellowed by the magic of light and shade. It is at once a most faithful copy of the particular scene re- presented, and of the generality of the river and hill sce- nery in the route from Rouen to Bolbec. Perhaps the distance is too delicately marked ; so as to give you an idea of the hill, to the right of Rouen, (which in fact is Mont Ste. Catharine) being farther situated from the city than it really is. But the whole is de- lightfully picturesque. We remounted, having gratified the postilion by granting his request to have a peep at the drawing, which he pronounced to be " charmant !" I love cu- riosity of this kind, when it does not border upon im- pertinence ; and I had a shrewd suspicion that our garQon was a lad of no ordinary mettle. Our first halting-place was to be Si. Georges de Bocherville ; an ancient abbey of the xiith century, according to the instructions of M. Le Prevost. This abbey is situated about three French leagues from Rouen. Our route * See the Opposite Pirate. Lieut. Hall has described the same, or a similar scene, with great truth and animation, in his Travels in France, in 1818; 8vo. p. 45, 6. ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE. 189 thither^ from the summit of the hill which we had just ascended, lay along- a road skirted by interminable orchards now in their fullest bloom. The air was absolutely perfumed, to a sort of aromatic excess, by the fi'agrance of these blossoms. The apple and pear were beautifully conspicuous ; and as the sky became still more serene, and the temperature yet more mild by the unobstructed sun beam, it is impossible to con- ceive any thing- more balmy and more genial than was this lovely day. The minutes seemed to fly away too quickly — when we reached the village of Bocherville, where stands the church ; the chief remaining relic of this once beautiful abbey. We alighted at the au- berge ; and while our steeds and postillion were feast- ing upon their peculiar provenders, we started for the enjoymear of provender of a very different description. Turning quickly down a lane to the left, thickly shaded by overhanging branches of fruit trees, we hastened onward, still keeping to the left ; when, peep- ing between the trees, at a little distance, we discerned the venerable ecclesiastical edifice — of a pale and even fresh tone of colour. It appeared to be small, but extremely beautiful, and of a deliciously old aspect. The village was all alive in a moment. Women and children were chiefly visible ; the men being engaged in the fields. The towering cauchoise and wooden shoes proved that we were still in the vi- cinity of Rouen. There seemed to be plenty of dirt and plenty of wretchedness in the village. We in- quired for Le Concierge ; and in his absence came "madame son epouse." We surveyed the west front very leisurely, and thought it an extremely beautiful 190 ROUEN TO HAVRE. specimen of the architecture of the twelfth and thir- teenth centuries ; for certainly there are some portions more ancient than others. M. Le Prevost had apprised me that Mr. Cotman had designed pretty nearly the whole of the building,* with the exception of the chap- ter-house to the left of the west front. A survey of this chapter-house filled me with mingled sorrow and de - light : sorrow, that the Revolution and a modern cot- ton manufactory had metamorphosed it from its origi- nal character ; and delight, that the portions which remained were of such beautiful forms, and in such fine preservation. The stone, being of a very close-grained quality, is absolutely as white and sound as if it had been just cut from the quarry. The room, where a parcel of bare legged girls and boys were working the ^ respective machineries, had a roof of what may be called interlaced arches of the most delicate construction. This old building has been recently divided into an upper and ground floor ; and it was by means of this artificial division that, while upon the upper floor, we were enabled to make so minute a survey of the arched roof. I imagine the whole of this portion of the build- ing to have been the Chapter House ; and that on the scite, which is now occupied by a long front of build- ing, of the usual architecture of modern times, stood the Refectory and Dormitory. It may, however, be just the reverse : nor is it material whether what we saw be the chapter-house or the refectory. The conversion of the whole to the purposes of trade has a very strange • Mr. Cotman has in fact published views of the West Front, the South East, the West Entrance, and the South Transept, with sculp- tured capitals and basso-relievos, &c. In the whole, seven plates. ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE. 191 effect. But the present is not the first metamorphosis : for the large building, just mentioned, was erected about four-score years ago by a nobleman, or prince, who chose to retire from the bustle of pubUc life, and to de- vote a large fortune to the erection of this mansion as a monastery for a prior and seventeen lay-monks. A fine piece of ground, or walled park, surrounds it ; which is just now in a most pitiable state of neglect. In short, this general aspect of decay pervades the interior, or manufactory itself. The superintendant, who shewed us every part of this large establishment, told us that the owner was anxious to get rid either of the whole or of the half of it ; and that he would part with the latter for 35,000 francs. This apparently trifling sum would startle, at first sound, an EngUsh manufacturer : but all things, you know, must be estimated with refe- rence to the country in which they occur. Here, land and labour are cheap and reasonable enough, and the demand (though things are upon the mend) is slow and uncertain. The very sound of a Monastery made me curious to examine tiie disposition of the building. Accordingly, I followed my guide through suites of apartments up divers stone stair-cases, and along sundry corridores. I noticed the dormitories with due attention, and of course inquired eagerly for the Library : — but the shelves only remained — either the fear or the fury of the Revolution having long ago dispossessed it of every thing in the shape of a hook. The whole was painted white. I counted eleven perpendicular di- visions ; and, from the small distances between the up- per shelves, there must have been a veiy considerable 192 ROUEN TO HAVRE. number of duodecimos. The titles of the respective classes of the library were painted in white letters upon a dark-blue ground, at top. Bibles occupied the first division, and the Fathers the second : but it should seem that equal importance was attached to the works of Heretics as to those called Litterce Hu- mmiiores — for each had a division of equal magnitude. On close inquiry, I found tliat the ravages of one day, during the Revolution, had gutted the poor li- brary of all its book-furniture. It is, however, a very small room. There was something excessively melan- choly in the air of all this premature ruin : stout walls, and spacious chambers, (the paint yet fresh) without occupation ! . . On looking out of window, especially from the back part of the building, the eye rests en- tirely upon what had once been fruitful orchards, abundant kitchen gardens, and shady avenues. Yet in England, this spot, rich by nature, and desirable from its proximity to a great city, would, ere forty moons had waned, have grown up into beanty and fertility, and expanded even into luxuriance of condi- tion. How interesting are the remains of ecclesiasti- cal architecture — and how yet increased in sanctity seems to be the house of God — when surrounded by a domain of this description ! I must confess that I quitted this congenial spot (the first which united rural quiet with architectural antiquity, since our ears had been stunned by the " train-train" of Rouen) with sensations of no ordinary kind. We retrod our steps ; and reaching the auberge, where stood the horses with the cabriolet ready to receive us, we remounted, and told the postillion to push on for Duclair. DE LA FONTAINE 193 The day was now, if possible, more lovely than before. On looking" at my instructions I found that we had to stop to examine the remains of an old castle at De- lafontalne — about two English miles from St. Georges de Bocherville. These remains, however, are but the fragments of a ruin, if I may so speak ; yet they are interesting, but somewhat perilous : for a few broken portions of a wall support an upper chamber, where appears a stone chimney-piece of very curious con- struction and ornament. Mr. Lewis contrived in ten minutes to make a slight yet characteristic sketch of it. I call these fragments perilous ; for there is a portion of them of which the superincumbent floor, of flint-stone and mortar, is just giving way — threatening to crush every thing below. On observing a large cavity or loop- hole, about half way up the outer wall, I gained it by means of a plentiful growth of ivy, and from thence surveyed the landscape before me. Here, having for some time past lost sight of the Seine, I caught a fine bold view of the sweep of that majestic river, now be- coming broader and broader — while, to the left, softly tinted by distance, appeared the beautiful old church we had just left behind : — the verdure of the hedges, shrubs, and forest trees, affording a rich variety to the ruddy blossoms of the apple, and the white bloom of the pear. For a painter, or rather upon the principles of compo- sition for a well-painted landscape, there was nothing that an artist would think deserving of representing upon canvas : for there was absolutely neither what is called fore-ground, nor middle-ground, nor distance — and yet, altogether, you would have preferred it even to the wooded scenery of Hobbima, to the cool stream- 194 ROUEN TO HAVRE. lets of Rysdael, or to the herbacious richness of Cuyp. I admit, however, that this delicious morceaii of land- scape was greatly indebted, for its enchanting effect, to the blue splendour of the sky, and the soft temperature of the air ; while the fragrance of every distended blos- som added vastly to the gratification of the beholder. But it is time to descend from this elevation, and to think of reaching Duclair. DucLAiR is situated close to the very borders of the Seine, which has now an absolutely lake-like appear- ance. We stopped at the auberge to rest our horses ; and Mr. Lewis, as usual, betook himself to some fa- vourable spot, at a small distance, for the sake of exer- cising his pencil. Meanwiiile I commenced a dis- course with the master of the inn and with his daugh- ter ; the latter, a very respectable-looking and well-be- haved young woman of about twenty-two years of age. She was preparing a large crackling wood-fire to dress a fish, called the Alose, for the passengers of the dili- gence — who were expected within half an hour. The French think they can never butter their victuals sufficiently ; and it would have produced a spasmodic affection, in a thoroughly bilious spectator, could he have seen the enormous piece of butter which this ac- tive young cuisiniere thought necessary to put into the pot in which the ' Alose ' was to be boiled. She laughed at the surprise I expressed ; and added "qu'on ne pent rien faire dans la cuisine sans le beurre." You ought to know, by the bye, that the Alose, something like our ?nackerel in flavour, is a large and delicious fish ; and that we were always anxious to bespeak it at the table-d'hote at Rouen. Extricated DUCLAIR. 195 from the lake of butter in which it floats, when brought upon table, it is not only a rich, but a very substantial fish ; and I give it decidedly the preference to all the items of every bill of fare presented to us by Juliana Berners or Isaac Walton. Tlie auberge is situated at the base of rather a lofty chalk cliff, close to the road side; and the opposite side of the road is washed by the waters of the Seine. I took a chair and sat in the open airj by the side of the door — enjoying the breeze, and much disposed to gossip with the master of the place. Perceiving this, he approached, and addressed me with a pleasant degree of familiarity. " You are from London, then, Sir?" "I am." "Ah Sir, I never think of London but with the most painful sensations." " How so ?" " Sir, I am the sole heir of a rich banker who died in that city before the Revolution. He was in partner- ship with an English gentleman. Can you possibly advise and assist me upon the subject?" I told him that my advice and assistance were literally not worth a sous ; but that, such as they were, he was perfectly welcome to both. " Your daughter Sir, is not married ?" — " Non, Monsieur, elle n'est pas encore ^pous^e : mais je lui dis qu'elle ne sera jamais heiireuse avant qu'elle ne le soit." The daughter, who had overheard the conversation, came forward, and look ing over her shoulder very archly, replied — " ou maU heureuse, mon pere !" In the discourse which followed, the worthy innkeeper seemed wholly to forget all the agonies of disappointment in not succeeding as heir to the rich banker in London. Nevertheless, I am far from accusing him of falsehood . . . but the French 196 ROUEN TO HAVRE. are admirable masters of variety. Upon ordinary topics of discussion, their conversation darts, with the velocity of an Indian's arrow. From grave to gay, from lively to severe ; The horses were now refreshed — the postillion's whip not only awakened the echoes of the place, but caused Mr. L. to start up from the quiet nook in which he had been pencilling a few surrounding objects. We were solicited to " mount :" — and though we had not spent a sous with the good people of the house, they helped us into the cabriolet, and bade us a hearty farewell. On enquiring for the road to Jiimieges — " Ha, vous voulez done voir. Messieurs, cette fameuse abbaye — maintenant il n'en existe que les debris" — replied the loquacious host. I thanked him for his civility, wished him and his daughter all manner of happiness, and we started at a smart trot for the once far-famed Abbey of Jumieges. Do you remember, my dear friend, that exceedingly cold winter's night, when, for lack of other book-enter- tainment, we took it into our heads to have a rummage among the Scriptores Historice Norniannorum of Du- chesne ? — and finding therein many pages occupied by GuUelmiis Gemeticensis, we bethought ourselves that we would have recourse to the valuable folio volume ycleped Neustria Pia : — where we presently seemed to hold converse with the ancient founders and royal benefactors of that venerable establishment ! I then little imagined that it would ever fall to my lot to be either walking or musing within the precincts of that same Abbey — or rather, of the ruins of what was MARIVAUX. 197 once not less distinguished as a school of learning-, than admired for its wealth and celebrity as a monastic establishment. Yes, my friend, I have seen and visited the ruins of the Abbey of Jumieges ; and I seem to live " mihi charior" in consequence. How * * * will envy me this felicity when he hears of it ! But I know your love of method — and that you will be in wrath if I skip from Duclair to Jumieges ere the horses have carried us a quarter of a league upon the route. Be it so then : yet remember, if you love chit- chat, you must be prepared for trifles. To the left of Duclair, and also washed by the waters of the Seine, stands Marivaux ,• a most picturesque and highly cul- tivated spot. Here are hanging gardens, and jets d'eaux, and flower -woven arbours, and daisy-sprinkled meadows — for here lives and occasionally revels La Marquise * * * ^. I might have been not only a spec- tator of her splendor, but a participator of her hospi- tality ; for my often-mentioned valuable friend, M. Le Prevost, volunteered me a letter of introduction to her. What was to be done ? One cannot be every where in one day, or in one journey : — so, gravely balancing the ruins of still life against the charm of animated society, I was dolt enough to prefer the former — and work- ing myself up into the fantasy of witnessing the spec- tered forms of Dagobert and Clovis, (the fabled founders of the Abbey)* and of hearing .... voices, through the void deep-sounding, I resolutely turned my back upon Marivaux, and as * Dagobert and Clovis, the fabled founders of the Abbey.'] — Arthur Du Monstier^ author of the Neustria Pia, is disposed to give up the 198 ROUEN TO HAVRE. steadily looked forwards to Jumieges. " We will eat our cold fowl and drink our vin ordinaire upon the grass ^vithin the walls of the abbey," said I to my companion : " The Marchioness (rejoined he) can afford us nothing so delightful." Unchivalrous reply ! The road became more and more circuitous. We ascended very sensibly — then striking into a sort of bye-road, in a field, we were told that we should former, but to retain the latter : see pages 259, 261, of the work just mentioned. Yet William Longesp^e, and his Son William, have doubtless better claims than either ; although not a vestige remains of the building as it appeared in the times of the more ancient Rulers of Normandy. I do not conceive indeed that any present portion of the ruins can be older than the beginning of the xiith cen- tury. That Clovis may have been the original planner of the Abbey should seem to be not very improbable, from the following verses, t^ken from an old MS. Life of St. Bathilde, the wife and Queen of the French King : Jumegia ex natis Clodousei dicta Gemellis : Aucta refulgebat nongentis fratribus olim. It must have been in Rollo's time, therefore, a noble establishment . RoUo is indeed considered as the great restorer of religious edifices in Normandy: Tmic fieri delubra iubet, cellasque, domosque ; Multaque restitiiit, priscis subuersa minis Praedia, diuitias, quo possent qusestibus absque, Quique Monoptolemi seclusam ducere vitam. Protiniis artificas sponsa mercede labori, Structuras renouare parant arctando ininori Schemate, limitibus, domunique locique tenore Archetypum : tandem fabrefacti encoenia Tenipli, &c. &c. &c. Neustria Pia, p. 306. William^ surnamed Longesp^e, was the son of RoUo ; and it is just possible that he may have the most effectually contributed to the building of the Abbey. The first Abbot was Martinus ; or rather St. Martin — for, like St. Ouen, and the generality of first Abbots, he was ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. 199 quickly reach the place of our destination. A frac- tured capital, and broken shaft, of the late Norman time, left at random beneath a hedge, seemed to bespeak the vicinity of the abbey. We then gained a height ; whence, looking straight forward, we caught the first glance of the spires, or rather of the small towers of the Abbey of Jumieges.* '^ Lavoila, Monsieur," — exclaim- ed the postilion — increasing both his speed and the flourishes of his whip — " voil^ la belle Abbaye !" It was indeed " beautiful" or " fine :" but these are words which carry force only by association of ideas. It had been questionless most beautiful. The grey or almost white tint of the stone, contrasted by the wood- covered hills, in which the monastery seemed to be embosomed, struck us with peculiar force : " if these are end-towers (observed my companion) the central tower, now destroyed, must have been of very large dimensions." We approached and entered the village of Jumieges. Leaving some pretty houses to the right and left, among which is a parsonage residence of more than usually comfortable appearance for France, canonized. Among the grants of privileges, &c. is one from our Henry I. '' Not only ( says Du Monstier) did the Norman Dukes love the locality of, and largely endow, the Abbey of Jumieges, but even the Kings of France— and chiefly Charles VII. — who erected there a reli- gious house :" which was standing in Du Monstier's time — not however without affording evidence of the ravages committed upon. it by the Calvinists in the xvith century. It is above observed that Agnes SoREL (mistress of Charles) was buried in the Abbey. * Mr. Cotman has published etchings of the West Front : the Towers, somewhat fore-shortened j the Elevation of the Nave — and doorway of the Abbey : the latter an extremely interesting specimen of art. A somewhat particular and animated description of it will be found in Lieut. Halls Travels in France, 8vo. p. 57, 1819. 200 ROUEN TO HAVRE. we descended — and drove to a snug auberge, evidently a portion of some of the outer buildings, or of the chapter-house, attached to the Abbey. A large gothic roof, and central pillar, upon entering, un- equivocally attest the ancient character of the place. The whole struck us as ha\'ing been formerly of very great dimensions. It was a glorious sun-shiny af- ternoon, and the villagers quickly crowded round the cabriolet. " Voila Messieurs les Anglois, qui viennent voir I'Abbaye — mais efFectivement il n'y a rien a voir.'* I told the landlady the object of our visit. She procured us a guide and a key : and within five minutes we entered the nave of the abbey. Sacred be the moment, and serene be the heavens, on the first view of this interior ! I can never forget it. It has not the magical eflrect,or that sort of artificial burst, which attends the first view of T'mtern abbey: but, as the ruin is larger, there is necessarily more to attract atten- tion. Like Tintern also, it is unroofed — yet this unroof- ing has proceeded from a different cause : of which pre- sently. The side aisles present you with a short flat- tened arch : the nave has none : but you observe a long pilaster-like or alto-relievo column, of slender dimen- sions, running from bottom to top, with a sort of Ro- man capital. The arched cieling and roof are entirely gone. We proceeded towards the eastern extremity, and saw more frightful ravages both of time and of ac- cident. The latter however had triumphed over the former : but for accident you nmst read revolution. On the first view of each surrounding object, we were struck with a variety of sensations. In the land of Normandy — the land of castles and cathedrals — ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. 201 we fancied a higher tone of feeling svas connected with every thing we saw. But this was only the venial enthusiasm of young travellers. The day had been rather oppressive for a May morning ; and we were getting far into the afternoon, when clouds began to gather, and the sun became occasionally obscured. We seated ourselves upon a grassy hillock, and began to prepare for dinner. To the left of us lay a huge pile of fragments of pillars and groin- ings of arches — the effects of recent havoc : to the right, within three yards, was the very spot in which the celebrated Agnes Sorel, Mistress of Charles VII., lay entombed : — not a relic of mausoleum now marking the place where, formerly, the sculptor had exhibited the choicest efforts of his art, and the devotee had repaired to Breathe a prayer for her soul — and pass on ! What a contrast, my dear friend, to the present aspect of things ! — to the mixed rubbish and wild flowers with which every spot is now well nigh covered ! The mis- tress of the inn having furnished us with napkins and tumblers, we partook of our dinner, surrounded by the objects just described, with no ordinary sensations. The first and only sentiment which we drank, was, (naturally I would hope) " dear Old England, and all that it contains I" — A more enthusiastic toper would have drunk to the memories of those who slept within the walls of the abbey — but we were content to sacrifice the unknown dead to the cherished living. Yet I will not conceal that, more than once or twice, I felt a sort of romantic twinge come across me, which had VOL. I. N 202 ROUEN TO HAVRE. nearly induced me to make a libation to ... . But it was only a twinge — and, like twinges in general, was perfectly evanescent. 'ITie air now became oppressive ; when, looking through the few remaining unglazed mullions of the windows, I observed that the clouds grew darker and darker, while a faint rumbling of thunder reached our ears. The sun however yet shone gaily, although partially ; and as the storm neared us, it floated as it were round the abbey — affording, by means of its purple, black colour, contrasted with the pale tint of the walls, — one of the most beautiful painter-like eftects imaginable. Mr. L. started up from his seat to enjoy a more general view : but I was unwilling to quit the vicinity of Agnes Sorel — and remained tranquilly upon j^e hillock, even though two smart flashes of lightning had come across me. In an instant almost — and as if touched by the wand of a mighty necromancer — the whole scene became metamorphosed. The thunder growled, but only growled — and the threatening pha- lanx of sulphur-charged clouds rolled away — and melted into the quiet uniform tint which usually precedes sun-set. Our dinner being dispatched, we rose to make a thorough examination of the ruins which had survived .... not only the Revolution, but the cupidity of the present owner of the soil — who is a rich man, living at Rouen — and who loves to dispose of any portion of the stone, whether standing or pros- trate, for the sake of the lucre, however trifling, which arises from the sale. Surely the whole cor- poration of the city of Rouen, with the mayor at ABBEY OF JUMIEGES. 203 their head, ought to stand between this ruthless " rich man," and the abbey — the victim of his brutal avarice and want of taste. We ascended the worn stone steps of the left tower of the western extremity as you enter, and walked over the arched roof of the side aisles, which was covered with earth, grass, weeds, and wild flowers. Tliere is nothing aboA^e it ; so that, in a short time, from its exposure to the vicissitudes of weather, it must soon give way, and add to the enormous heap of rubbish below. Indeed, in one part, (but I forget over which of the aisles) there is a frightful fracture, or opening, threatening to precipitate several ton weight of the roof. The right tower is inaccessible of ascent ; but we pursued our spiral route to the very top of the left ; and, from its summit, enjoyed a glorious view of every thing immediately below and around us. The abbey had a most interesting but somewhat terrific ap- pearance. Nearly the whole of the eastern extremity was in ruins : — while, in the centre, the portion of the lantern, or square tower, which remained, denoted the extent of its original dimensions. The nave was en- tirely unroofed ; — and indeed not a single fragment of any portion of the roof was visible. Such a scene of sa- crilegious desolation can scarcely be conceived. What liad been the abbot's lodge, the refectory, the chapter- house and cloisters, with all their appurtenances, is now perhaps only matter of conjecture : but the mate- rials are in a very entire state — that is to say, the stone is yet hard, close-grained, and of a beautiful creamy tint. The situation of the abbey is delightful . It lies at the bottom of some gently undulating hills, within two or 204 ROUEN TO HAVRE. three hundred yards of the Seine. The river here runs gently, in a serpentine direction, at the foot of wood- covered hills — and all seemed, from our elevated sta- tion, indicative of fruitfulness, of gaiety, and of pros- perity, — all — save the mournful and magnificent remains of the venerable abbey whereon we gazed ! — In fact, Jumieges exists only as a shell. We descended, strolled about the village, (taking every possible view of the Abbey) and mingled in the conversation of the villagers. It was a lovely approach of evening — and men, women, and children were seated, or sauntering in the open air. Perceiving we were anxious to gain information, they flocked around us — and from one man, in particular, I obtained exact intelligence about the havoc which had been committed during the Revo- kition upon the abbey. The roof had been battered down for the sake of the lead — to make bullets ; the pews, altars, and iron-work, had been converted into other destructive purposes of warfare; and the great bell had been sold to some speculators in a cannon- foundery at Rouen. The revolutionary mania had even brutalized the Abbot. This man, who must be considered as .... damned to everlasting fame, had been a monk of the monastery ; and as soon as he had attained the headship of it, he took it int1a. roLitc — when a preposscssiug young paysanne, with a decidedly- pointed finger and a well- regulated voice, told us tliat, after passing through such a wood, we should reach an avenue, from the further end of which the castle of Montniorenci would be visible . . " une petite lieue de distance." Every thing is " une petite lieue !" It is the answer to every question rela- ting to distance. Though the league be double a Ger- man one, still it is " une petite" — Here however the paysanne happened to be right. We passed through the wood, gained the avenue, and from the further end saw — even yet towering in imposing magnitude — the far-famed Chateau de Monttnorenci. It might be a small league off. We gained spirits and even strength at the sight : told the postillion to mend his pace — of which he gave immediate and satisfactory demonstra- tion, while the echoes of his whip resounded along the avenue. A closer road now received us. llie liazel and filbert occasionally brushed our faces, and the lad could with difficulty quarter the ruts — almost broad and deep enough to bury a Lincolnshire ox. We still continued to descend, and at length began to discern 232 ROUEN TO HAVRE. the form and colour of the castle, to the right. As we descended, the castle seemed to gain in height and magnitude — but that descent brought us into the very heart of a neighbourhood, in which Mrs. Ratcliffe would have placed troops of retainers, or of banditti, to listen to the warder's horn from the turrets of the castle. It was on all sides Avoody : at this period, of a bright, yellowish green — but in autumn, rich must be the tints, and dark and deep must be the shadows. Knolls of moss-interwoven grass, on the summits of which the beech and lime threw up their sturdy stems, now enclosed the road — which began to widen and to improve in condition. At length, turning a corner, a group of country people appeared — " Est-ce ici la route de Tancarville ?" — " TancarWUe est tout pr^s : c'est la, o^ on voit la fumee des cheminees." Joyful intelligence ! — ^The post-boy increased his speed . . . the wheels seemed to move with a readier play, and in one minute and a half we were upon the beach of the river Seine, and alighted at the door of the only auberge in the village. I know you to be both a lover of and connoisseur in Rembrandt's pictures ; and especially of those of his old characters. I wish you could have seen the old woman, of the name of Bucan, who came out of this same auberge to receive us. She had a sharp, quick, constantly moving black eye ; keen features, projecting from a surface of flesh of a subdued mahogany tint ; about her temples, and the lower part of her cheeks, were all those harmonizing wrinkles which become old age — upon canvas — while, beJow her chin, communi- cating vnth a small and shrunken neck, was that sort TANCARVILLE. 233 of concavity, or dewlap, which painters delight to ex- press with a minuteness of touch, and mellowness of tint, that contribute largely to picturesque effect! This good old woman received us with perfect elasticity of spirits and of action. It should seem that we were the first Englishmen who had visited her sohtude this year. Her husband approached, but she soon ordered him " to the right about"— to prepare fuel, coffee, and eggs. We were promised the best breakfast that could be got in Normandy, in twenty minutes. The inn being suffici- ently miserable, I was anxious for a ramble— and Mr. L. of course for a sketch. The tide was now coming up, as at Caudebec ; but the sweep and breadth of the river being upon a considerably larger scale, its increase was not yet so obvious— though I am quite sure that all the flats, which we saw on our arrival as a bed of mud, were, within a qua-ter of an hour, wholly covered with water: and, looking up to the right, we perceived the perpendicular walls of Montmorenci Cattle to be washed by the refluent wave. It was a sort of ocean in minia- ture before us. A few miserable fishing boats were moored upon the beach ; while a small number of ill- clad and straggling villagers lingered about the same spot, and seemed to look upon us as beings dropt from the sky ! We strolled to the left — quickly mounted a wooded chff"— and, gaining a considerable eminence, Mr. Lewis saw the village of Tancarville at his feet . . : while the tide was coming up in a more agitated man- ner, and the Castle of Montmorenci appeared to gain a most imposing height and magnitude. A dark sha- dow flitted across the whole range of intermediate forest scenery, and an angry atmosphere seemed to 234 ROUEN TO HAVRE. threaten to overwhelm castle, trees, village, and river, in a deluge of rain. The view was so striking-, that my companion hastened to transfer it to his sketch book ; — and you shall not only see, but be charmed with it, on our return from this wild region of solitude and romance.* I continued my route — still ascending-, and leaving Mr. L. to his sketch. From the beach I had observed two very sing-ular mushroom-shaped rocks: and I was resolved to stand upon their summits. They project from the cliff as if they had been cut out by art, and the bottom parts have been so worn, or scooped away by a strong current of water — that nothing can afford more decisive proof of ancient diluvian havoc. You have here the slight but faithful sketch of them taken by ^r Lewis. * See the Opposing Vlalk. TANCARVILLE. 235 A winding path leads to them, which you must re- trace if you wish to gain, as I did, a higher part of the cliff. The whole is covered with coppice-wood. I had now the gratification of viewing Quillebeitfa. little more nearly. It was almost immediately opposite: while, to the right, I looked up the wide sweep of the river towards its embouchure, and fancied I could see Havre. The group of rocks, which had so charmed us on our journey, now assumed a different character. Meanwhile the threatening tempest passed on — rolling over the forest of Montmorenci : the sun was restored, and the day and the scenery equally broke upon us with an effulgence which cannot easily be described. But twice twenty minutes had elapsed — and where were our coffee and eggs ? On descending, we could discover, although at a considerable distance, the old woman standing at the door of the cabaret — apparently straining her eyes to catch a glimpse of us ; and she was almost disposed to scold us for having put her reputation of giving good breakfasts to so hazardous a trial. The wood was blazing, and the room was al- most filled by smoke — but a prolonged fast, and a stage of sixteen or eighteen miles, in a keen morning air, made us think only of allaying our hunger. In every public house, however mean, you see the white metal fork, and the napkin covering the plate. A dozen boiled eggs, and a coffee-pot and cups of per- fectly Brobdingnagdian dimensions, with tolerable bread and indifferent butter, formed the subject matter of our breakfast : and heartily and satisfactorily did we get through that meal. The postboy having stabled and refreshed his horses, was regaling himself in the VOL. I. p 236 ROUEN TO HAVRE. kitchen — but how do you think he was regaling him- self ? — Truly, in stretching himself upon a bench, and reading, as old Ascham expresses it, " a meriy tale in Boccace." In other words, he was reading a French version of the Decameron of that celebrated author. Now, my friend, whether he had ever heard of the Val- darfer Boccaccio,'^ is truly beyond my power of divi- nation to affirm : but most certain it is that he was so occupied — thereby putting to shame perhaps the whole tribe of postillions in Great Britain ! Indeed, I had already received sufficient proof of the general pro- pensity of the common people to read — whether good or bad books . . . but let us hope and believe the former. We left the bibliomaniacal postboy to his Boccaccio, and prepared to visit the castle . . .the once proud and yet commanding residence of the family of Montmo- RENCI. We ascended — with fresh energies imparted from our breakfast. The day grew soft, and bright, and exhi- larating . . but alas ! for the changes and chances of every thing in this transitory world. Where was the warder ? He had ceased to blow his horn for many a long year. Where was the harp of the minstrel ? It * the Valdarjer Boccaccio.'] — At the sale of the present Duke of Marlborough's Library, in 181 9, this far-famed volume was purchased by the House of Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Brown, and Ormefor i£918. it having cost the Duke, at the sale of the Roxbukghe Library (see the Bibliographical Decameron, vol. iii. p. 62), in 1812, not less a sum than £.2260. Earl Spencer, who was the Duke's opponent, obtained this desirable volume of Messrs, Longman, Hurst, and Co. for precisely the same sum which they had given for it. Such a pur- chase was equally honourable to both parties. CASTLE OF MONTMORENCI. 231 had perished two centuries ago, with the hand that had struck its chords. Where was the attendant guard?— or pursuivants— or men at arms ? They had been swept from human existence, Uke the leaves of the old limes and beech trees by which the lower part of the buil- ding was surrounded. The moat was dry ; the rampart was a ruin :— the rank grass grew within the area . . . nor can I tell you how many vast reUcs of halls, ban- queting rooms, and bed rooms, with all the magnificent appurtenances of old castellated architecture, struck the eager eye with mixed melancholy and surprise! The singular half-circular, and half square, corner towers, hanging over the ever-restless wave, interested us exceedingly. The guide shewed us where the prisoners used to be kept— in a dungeon, apparently impervious to every gUmmer of day-Mght, and every breath of air. I cannot pretend to say at what period even the oldest part of the Castle of Montmorenci was built : but I saw nothing that seemed to be more an- cient than the latter end of the xvth century.* Per- haps the greater portion may be of the beginning of the xvith ; but, amidst the unroofed rooms, I could not help admiring the painted borders, chiefly of a red co- lour, which run along the upper part of the walls, or wainscoats— giving indication not only of a good, but of a splendid, taste. Did I tell you that this sort of orna- ment was to be seen in some parts of the eastern end of the Abbey of Jumieges ? Here, indeed, they afforded evidence— an evidence, mingled with melancholy sen- » Mr. Cotman has a view of the gateway of TancarviUe, or Mont- morenci Castle, 238 ROUEN TO HAVRE. sations on conviction — of the probable state of mag- nificence which once reigned throughout the castle. Between the corner towers, upon that part which runs immediately parallel with the Seine, there is a noble terrace, now converted into garden ground — which commands an immediate and extensive view of the embouchure of the river. It is the property of a spe- culator residing at Havre. Parallel with this terrace, runs the more modernised part of the castle, which the last residing owner inhabited. It may have been built about fifty years ago, and is — or rather the re- mains of it are — quite in the modern style of domestic architecture. The rooms are large, lofty, and commo- dious ; — yet nothing but the shells of them remain. The revolutionary patriots completely gutted them of every useful and every valuable piece of furni- ture: and even the bare walls are beginning to grow damp, and threaten immediate decay. I made several memoranda upon the spot, which have been unluckily, and I fear irretrievably, misplaced ; so that of this once vast, and yet commanding and interesting edifice, I regret that I am compelled to send you so short and so meagre an account. Farewell — a long and perhaps perpetual farewell — to the Castle of MONTMORENCI ! The cabriolet met us at the bottom of the mound upon which the castle is built. We had paid our reckoning before we left the inn — so that we had no- thing to do but to step in, and push forward for Havre. We retraced the road through which we came ; and having repassed the village of aS"^. Romaine, (containing a very picturesque sprinkling of houses) we darted HAVRE. 239 into the Route Royale, and got upon one of the noblest high roads in France. Between Tancarville, and Havre lie Hocher and Harfleur ; each ahnost at the water's edge. I regretted I could not see the former; but in our approach to Harfleur we observed, to the right, some delightfully situated, and not inelegantly- built, country villas or modern chateaux. The imme- diate run down to Harfleur is exceedingly pleasing ; and though we trotted sharply through the town, the exquisite little porch of the church was not lost upon us. It resembles that of St. Ouen — in miniature. The town, but especially the church,* is of the time of Francis I. Few places, I believe, for its dimensions, have been more celebrated in the middle ages than Harfleur. The Seine to the left becomes broader and bolder ; and, before you, beneath some wooded heights, lies Havre. Every thing gave indication of commerce and prosperity as we gained upon the town. The houses increased in number and respectability of ap- pearance — " Voyez-vous la. Messieurs, a droit, ces belles maisons de plaisance? — (exclaimed our charioteer) — " C'est la ou demeurent Messieurs vos compatriotes : ma foi, ils ont un joli gout." The first glance upon these stone houses confirmed the sagacity of our postil- lion. They are gloriously situated — facing the ocean ; while the surrounding country teems with game of every species. Isaac Walton might have contrived to interweave a pretty ballad in his description of the trout streams. But we approach the town. The hulls of hundreds * Mr. Cotman has given a view of the Spire only. 240 HAVRE. of vessels are seen in the commodious docks ; and the flags of merchantmen, from all quarters of the globe, appear to stream from the mast-heads. It is a scene of bustle, of business, and variety; and perfectly Eng- lish. What a contrast to the gloomy solitude of Montmorenci ! The outer and inner gates are passed. Diligences issue from every quarter. The centinels relieve guard. The sound of horns, from various packet-boats immediately about to sail, echoes on all sides .... We drove up the high street, and ap- proached the hotel of the Aigle d'Or* kept by Justin, and considered to be the best. We were just in time for the table d'hote, and to bespeak excellent beds. Travellers were continually arriving and de- parting. What life and animation ! . . and could I havg shaken off my jaded spirits, arising from a sleep- less and restless night, I should have relished, with a keener delight, the multitudinous objects before me. We sat down upwards of forty to dinner : and a good dinner it was. Two English ladies, and three English gentlemen, were among the guests ; and though we were too distant to interchange a word, I could per- ceive and feel that we each thought ourselves a pro- tection to the other. After dinner, I settled for the cabriolet, and bade the postboy adieu ! — nor can I sup- press that, in wishing him well, I felt ten times more than I had ever felt upon taking leave of a postillion. Was it because I found him reading a French version of Boccaccio ? Something better, I should hope, mingled itself with my sensations ; and I would willingly be- * I am not sure whether this inn be called the Amies de France, or as above. HAVRE. 241 lieve, although he knows not my name, that the said postillion will not think the worse of " Messieurs les Anglois" . . . for having conducted a Bibliomaniac and a craniology-loving artist from Rouen to Havre. And now, fare you well, till I reach the opposite shore . . . and take up my residence at Caen. 242 LETTER Xll. HAVRE DE GRACE. HONFLEUR. JOURNEY TO CAEN. Caerii May, 1818. Well, my friend I ... I have at length visited the interior of the Abbey of St. Stephen, and have walked over the grave of William the Conqueror and of Mathilda his wife. I am here very comfortably situ- ated, and shall not think of quitting this place for a week at least. But as you dearly love the gossip of a travelling journal, I shall take u[) the thread of my narrative from the spot in which I last addressed you : — particularly as our route hither was marked by some circumstances not unworthy of recital. First, how- ever, for Havre. We staid there only long enough to express our re- gret that the time of our residence could not be ex- tended. It happened to be a very fine afternoon, and I took a leisurely stroll upon the docks and ramparts,* * Evelyn, who visited Havre in 1644, when the Duke de RichUeu was governor, describes the citadel as " strong and regular, well stored with artillery, &c. The w orks furnished with faire brass canon, having a motto, "Ratio ultima Regum." The allogiaments (con- tinues he) of the garrison are unifornne ; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, a pretty chapell, and a faire house for the governor, &c. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal Richlieu, unkle of the present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very spacious." Life and Writings of John Evelyn, edit. 1818, vol. i. p. 5]. Indeed Havre seems always to have been a place of note and dis- HAVRE. 243 while Mr. Lewis ascended the heights upon which we had observed the " maisons de plaisance" pointed out to us by our postilUon. The principal street is broad, straight, and seems surmounted at one end by these heights; though there can be little short of a French league between them and its extremity : the other ex- tremity of the street ending with the harbour. The rect- angular and parallel streets are narrower and of less length ; but there are more interesting pieces of archi- tectural antiquity in them. As far as I could observe, or could receive information, there was no house older than of the time of Francis I. Few of the churches could boast of a much more remote antiquity. The population of Havre is estimated at 20,000; and I should think this is no exaggerated statement. Tlie town is full of animation— whether as relating to busi- ness or pleasure. For the former, you must visit the quays ; for the latter, you must promenade the high street, and more especially the Boulevards, towards the heights. The sun shone merrily, as it were, upon the thousands of busy, bustling, and bawling human creatures . . who were in constant locomotion in this latter place. Resolving to postpone my visits to the Booksellers till evening, I took advantage of eveiy quarter of an tinction in more senses than one. In ZeiUer's Topographia Gallice, (vol. iii.) there is a view of it, about the period in which Evelyn saw it, by Jacques Gomboust, Ingenieur du Roy, from which it appears to have been a very considerable place. Forty-two principal buildings and places are referred to in the directions ; and among them we ob- serve the BouLEVAKDS DE RicHLiEU. There are windmills in abun- dance in the neighbourhood. 244 HAVRE. hour of day-light, after four, to make myself master of the locale of the harbour. The docks are the " great g-uns" of the place ; and in these you see three Ame- rican vessels for one Enghsh. In fact, the business with America is of very considerable extent. I recog- nised among the vessels a beautiful little three-masted merchantman, which I had seen, about five years ago, lying within Ramsgate pier — and any thing which re- minds you of your own country, though at no very ter- rific distance from it, is looked upon with a fonder and more frequent eye. Just so it was upon viewing this tightly trimmed vessel. I wished, for a minute only, that I could leap on board — command a pros- perous breeze, unfurl the sails by magic, — and be gently landed upon that said pier at Ramsgate I But where would have been Caen — and Bayeux — and Coutances — whither my steps were bending? What a difference between the respective appearances of the quays of Dieppe and Havre ? Although even here things would assume a rubbishing and littered as- pect compared with the quays at Liverpool or at Hull, yet it must be admitted, for the credit of Gal- lico-Norman commerce, that the quays of Havre make a very respectable appearance. You see men fiddling, dancing, sleeping, sitting, and of course talk- ing a pleine gorge, in groupes without end — but no drunkenness! . . not even a G m saluted my ear. The Southampton packets land their crews at Havre. I saw the arrival of one of these packets ; and was cruel enough to contrast the animated and elastic spirits of a host of French laqiiais de place, trades- people, &c. — attacking the passengers with cards of HAVRE. 245 their address — with the feeble movements and dejected countenances of the objects of their attack. Mean- while a packet would sail in the evening for Harflew, but nothing could shake the determination I had made of stopping (and sleeping, if possible) at Havre. Again the packet masters caused the " note of departure" to be sounded ; and again the high street reverberated its echoes — while trucks and wheel-barrows, laden with goodly or with sorrowful looking furniture, ap- peared in motion on all sides — hastening to be in time for the moment of departure. From the quays, I sauntered along the ramparts, which are flanked by broad ditches ; (of course plenti- fully supplied with water) and passing over the draw- bridge, by which all carriages enter the town — and which absolutely trembles as if about to sink beneath you, as the diligence rolls over it. — I made for the boulevards and tea-gardens ; to which, business being well nigh over, the inhabitants of Havre flock by hun- dreds and by thousands. A fine afternoon throws every thing into " good keeping" — as the artists say. The trees, and meadows, and upper lauds were not only bright with the sun-beam, but the human counte- nance was lighted up with gladness. The occupations partook of this joyful character. Accordingly there was dancing and singing on all sides ; a little beyond, appeared to sit a group of philosophers, or politi- cians, upon a fantastically cut seat, beneath laburnums streaming with gold — while, still further, gradually be- coming invisible from the foliage and winding path, strolled pairs in more gentle discourse ! Meanwhile the whoop and halloo of school-boys, in rapid and 246 HAVRE. ceaseless evolutions, resounded through the air, and heightened the gratification of the scene. And young and old came out to play Upon a sun-shine holiday. On looking up a winding road, I saw Mr. Lewis busi- ed with his pencil. Knolls of rich verdure, with fine spreading trees, and elegant mansions, were in the foreground — in the middle-ground, and quite at his feet, stood the town of Havre : — in the distance, rolled and roared the expansive ocean ! The sun was visibly going to rest; but his departing beams yet sparkled upon the more prominent points of the pic- ture. There was no time for finishing the subject. After a stroll of nearly a couple of hours, on this inter- esting spot, I retraced my steps over the draw-bridge, and prepared for objects of still life ; in other words, for the examination of what might be curious and pro- fitable in the shape of a ftofeC- Yet I could not turn my back upon the rising ground, which I had just con- templated, without thinking that your friends in London — or any friends in any part of England — would do very wisely to spend an occasional summer and autumn upon the heights of Havre : and I will tell you why. In the first place, the locale is perfectly picturesque : there are both town and countiy gratifi- cations : sea and landscape in abundance — while the air is pure and elastic. In the second place, the time (that engenderer of spleen, and deadly weight upon the shoulders of too many of our countrymen) may be pleasingly and even usefully divided : in the morning you are mixing with the inhabitants of the town : in the HAVRE. 247 evening-, with those of the country: the walks are com- modious, and the roads are, in that season of the year, perfectly excellent. But you begin to grow tired both of town and country. Be it so. In the third place, then, take a trip to Rouen, for a week or ten days ; (to say nothing of the intermediate and interesting spots, so superficially described in my late dispatch) return, and then tell me how you like the heights of Havre ! ! Or, cross an arm of the sea, (as I have just done) ramble about Honfleur^ and make a leisurely journey to Caen or, go yet further : — then return, and tell me how you like the heights of Havre P Re- member, that the streams abound with trout, and the adjacent hills in variety and plenty of game ; also do not fail to call to mind that one shipment, at Southampton, brings you direct to your place of destination. A prosperous wind may make you dress at one place, and undress at another. Where then shall be the ra- tionally founded objection to a residence upon the HEIGHTS OF HaVRE ? The lamps were lighted when I commenced mjbib- liomaniacal voyage of discovery among the book- sellers. But what poverty of materials, for a man educated in the schools of Fust and Caxton ! ? To every question, about rare or old books, I was told that I should have been there when the allies first got possession of Paris. In one of the shops of a respect- able bibliopolist, I heard an animated, and even some- what fierce, discussion about the good or bad effects of the respective dynasties of the Bourbons and Buonaparte. Each of the two disputants defended his own side with warmth and eloquence. Each took 248 HAVRE. snuff, arid took it pretty copiously ; and the more ve- hement the argument, the more frequent the supply of that spirit-stirring stimulant. Perceiving me to be an Englishman, I began to be apprehensive that I should be appealed to — or peradventure, abused with equal heartiness by both parties. But the result was very different, and afforded an admirable illustra- tion of the facility and sang-froid with which the French can take up, or discard, any subject, however interesting or important. " You are from England, Sir," — remarked the Buonapartist, taking off his hat, and inclining his head towards me, with a gracious salutation. " I am. Sir." " How go on your House of Lords and House of Commons ?" " As usual. Sir, — very sound and very active : at least they ivere so. At present the latter exists no longer." " Exists no longer ! — what has happened then. Sir ? — Ha! you do right to visit these shores in such a crisis of alarm ! Did I not (turning to his Bourbon antagonist) did I not predict that things could not long last as they had been going on in England !" Whereupon, the said Prophet added sundry other sympathetic exclamations, without allowing me to say one word in explanation of the cause of the dissolution of our far-famed House of Commons ! At length, an opening presenting itself, I observed, with a mock solemnity of manner, that it was " the period of a general election^ Qu'est-ce que ce mot la veut signifier ? — je n'ai jamais entendu parler de cela." I explained it as briefly and as perspicu- ously as I was able : but both Buonapartist and Bour- bonist (to my astonishment) continued to express their ignorance and surprise. I then explained to them how HAVRE. 249 these respective houses carried on their proceedings ; and that the members of the house of Lords sat un- covered, with scarlet robes trimmed with ermine — but that those of the House of Commons sat with their hats On, and appeared in the dresses which they hap- pened to wear during the day — booted, or otherwise, just as they pleased. It is impossible for me to convey to you an idea of the shrug, and exclamation of con- tempt, with which these opposite-principled disputants simultaneously treated our unfortunate Commoners : nor could these political champions separate the elo- quence and importance of the debates from the vilain appearance of hats and boots : while the Upper House was pronounced by them to be the only proper arena for the display of intellectual strength and national wisdom. " Enfin, mon ami, (exclaimed the one, turn- ing to the other) il faut avouer que ces choses sont du plus mauvais gout ; et je ne puis pas concevoir com- ment les Anglois, qui sont vraiment de braves gens, peu- vent se conformer a des r^glements qui doivent avoir un resultat si funeste. A 9a ! partons. Neuf heures vient de sonner. Monsieur je vous souhaite le bon soir. Adieu, adieu." These adieus were directed, the first to the bookseller, the second to myself . . . and both Bourbonist and Buonapartist marched off, arm in arm, forgetting the dynasties which they had advo- cated, but uniform in their ex},Tessions of surprise, and predictions of evil from the homely costume of the Members of the House of Commons ! I could scarcely refrain from loud laughter as they shut the door of the shop, and disappeared. Doubtless these gentlemen had never consulted our Blackstone ! 250 HAVRE. Luckily, at that moment, a copy of the Hahiti anti- chi modern?, from the supposed designs of Titian, and printed in 1590, 8vo happened to catch my eye, and make me forget the scene which had just taken place. It was a sound, but somewhat cropt copy, and attired in a goodly jacket of calf-skin. The price de- manded was twelve francs : in our own country it brings double that price . . . and even more than treble might be given for such a copy as Mr. Grenville possesses. " C'est un peu fort, ce prix," observed I. " Comment fort. Monsieur ? voila un joli livre, rempli de planches en bois — dont on ne pourroit, aujourd'hui, ex^cuter un pareil, sans en exiger au moins trois fois le prix." This is any thing but an argument; but it is the common observation used by very many booksellers, whether near the banks of the Seine or the Thames. I counted down nine francs . . . and made a pause, looking at my bibliopolist. " H6 bien, comme vous le desirez, je prendrai les neuf francs et vous prendrez le livre. Ce'st 9a." This was droll enough. I laid the book aside, and sought about for more . . . but a torn Sauvage Monstrelet, and a thumbed and defective Gaguins Chronicle, (these are technical phrases) were the only fruits — or rather results — of a very anxious forage for full three quarters of an hour. In three shops, previously visited, there was scarcely any thing to be seen but Voltaire and Rousseau. I made the most of my supposed prize, returned to the hotel, drank a late and excellent cup of coffee, and after com- paring notes with Mr. Lewis, as to what we had seve- rally seen and heard, retired to rest, thoroughly worn out, and oppressed with sleep. HAVRE. 251 The packet was to sail by nine in the morning ; pre- cisely. For a wonder, (or rather no wonder at all, con- sidering' what had occurred during the last twenty-four hours) I had an excellent night's rest, and was pre- pared for breakfast by eight. Having breakfasted, we immediately accompanied our luggage to the inner harbour. Of course we had plenty of offers for the conveyance of it : so that in five minutes we were close to the water's edge, and observed the Honjieur packet swarming with passengers, and crammed with every species of merchandize: especially tubs, casks, trunks, cordage, and earthen-ware. We descended; saw our luggage stowed, took our stations near the helm — and after experiencing a good deal of un- comfortable heaving of the ocean, got clear from the mouth of the harbour, ami stood out to sea. The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour ; and a good deal of see-sawing of the vessel was the consequence of such current. We were in truth very closely stowed ; and as these packets are built with flattish bottoms, and low sides, — a rough sea would not have failed to give to a crew, thus exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats. Luckily the wind began to subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity. Not how- ever that very many of the passengers were not in- convenienced by the agitation, however trifling, which had occurred. Our crew was a motley one ; but among them, a parchment-visaged Abbess, with her broad streaming bands, seemed to experience parti- cular distress. She was surrounded by some hale, hearty market women, whose robust forms, and copper- 252 HAVRE. tinted countenances, formed a striking contrast to her own. A little beyond was an old officer or two, with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess was cruelly afflicted ; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below. Mr. Lewis seized an opportunity of transferring the whole foreshortened picture to his sketch book ; and I think you will allow it to be an admirable piece of compo- sition. HONFLEUR. 253 Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed . These heights may be called counter- parts to those of Havre ; but they are less lofty, though equally well wooded. Looking towards the course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I dis- covered Harfleur and Hocher nearly opposite ; and, a good deal lower down, the little fishing town of Quille- heiif, apparently embedded in the water. I necessa- rily had a different view of those rocks which so much astonished our postillion on the approach to Tancar- ville ; and indeed on all sides I contemplated nothing but picturesque beauty and agricultural plenteousness. Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns* — or whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs make amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plenty would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps no situation is more fa- vourable for the luxury of a summer retirement. Across this arm of the sea, or rather the very embou- chure of the river Seine, you observe Havre — (some eight English miles distant) yet a consequential look- ing town. We paid only eight sous apiece for our passage ; and having no passport to be vis^d (which in- deed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or * It was so in Evelyn's time : in 1644, " It is a poore fisher towne (says he) remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts." Life and Writings of J. Evelyn; 1818, 4to. vol, i. p. 51. VOL. I. Q 254 HAVRE TO CAEN. two, from the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our lug"gage to the inn from which the diligence sets off for Caen. It surprised us to see with what alacrity these lads carry the luggage up a steep hill in their trucks, or barrows ; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. Most fortunately we were in time to secure our places, and the horses were in the very act of being put to, as we paid our fares beforehand. All this, you will say, is very trifling ; but the fact is, you tell me that I must make you accompany me wherever I go, and in whatever transaction I am con- cerned. " Paullo majora." Judge of our surprise and gratification upon seeing two well-dressed and well- bred Englishmen, in the veiy act of securing their places. It is not always that, at first sight. English- men associate so quickly, and apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were the Messrs. D*** ofL**** Hall in Yorkshire : the elder brother an Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were all bound for Caen ; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition. I shall not easily forget the shower of rain which fell as we set off ; and most thankfully did I prefer the shelter of the roof of the coach to the security of an umbrella in an open packet-boat. The mode of starting was peculiar to this part of the world. My love of out-door comforts, and of witnessing the scenery of a new country, made me solicitous to secure a, place in the cabriolet ; but our acquaintances had previously obtained two places, and the driver and con- HAVRE TO CAEN. 255 ducteur (on this occasion the same individual) claimed the third place as a matter of right and necessity, for himself; from whence he exercised the office of the whip — a singular, and rather ticklish, situation for the management of four horses, unaided by a postillion ! But what was my astonishment, when, on his good- nature ceding to me this third place, he took his station upon the roof — and from thence, with the reins in one hand, and a whip in the other, he es- sayed to guide four high-mettled Norman stallions, down one descent and up another ascent . . . the rain at the same moment pouring down in torrents ! To say that I was not nervous, would be foolish . . I will own that I was even terrified — for what a machine was behind me ! . . and if we had been overset, what a result must have ensued ! Fortunately we had not got out of the town, and had scarcely cleared the first descent, when one of the horses got his leg completely over the rope traces, and it was impossible to pro- ceed. I now saw the danger of retaining my place in the cabriolet to the exclusion of the worthy driver, and instantly gave it up. He said very coolly " Ce sont des diables de chevaux, et il faut etre un pen plus pres pour les chatouiller." Leaving him in full possession to " tickle" the animals as he pleased, I got inside the diligence ; and as the rain continued to descend yet more heavily and steadily, 1 was not chagrined at the change : the leathern curtains of the cabriolet proving but a sorry defence. — Nothing, however, could discom- pose the gravity, or ruffle the good-humour of the conducteur. In the midst of the descending rain, and while the horses appeared to be sprawling all over the 256 HAVRE TO CAEN. road, he whistled and sang alternately, as if nothing had taken place. We now proceeded at a good sharp pace, and as we ascended the very high hill on the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon a noble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the truly magnificent view of the Seine — with glimpses of Harfleur and Havre on the opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the slow movement of the vehicle, enabled me to do this in a tolerably commo- dious manner. The ground however seemed saturated, and the leaves glistened with the incumbent moisture. There was a sort of pungent freshness of scent abroad-^ and a rich pasture land on each side gave the most luxuriant appearance to the landscape. Nature in- deed seemed to have fructified every thing in a manner at once spontaneous and perfect. The face of the country is pasture-land thro'ighout ; that is to say, there are comparatively few orchards and little arable. I was told to pay attention to the cattle, for that the farmers prided themselves upon their property of this kind. They may pride themselves — if they please : but their pride is not of a lofty cast of character. You know I am rather more conversant in Caxtons than in cows ; but I have been in Lincolnshire, Hereford- shire, and Gloucestershire — and have seen and enjoyed, in these said counties, groups of cattle which appeared calculated for the land and the table of giants, com- pared with the Lilliputian objects, of the bucoline spe- cies, which were straying in thin flocks, throughout the luxuriant pastures of Normandy. That trium- phant and immutable maxim of " small bone and PONT L'EVEQUE. 257 large carcase" seems, alas ! to be unknown in these re- gions. Nor are the cows extraordinary good milchers. However, on we rode — and on all sides we gazed. At length we reached Pont L'Eveque, a pretty long stage ; where we dined (says my journal) upon roast fowl, asparagus, trout, and an excellent omelette, with two good bottles of vin ordinaire — which latter, for four EngUshmen, was commendably moderate. Dur- ing dinner the rain came down again in yet heavier torrents— the gutters foamed, and the ground smoked with the unceasing fall of the water. In the midst of this aquatic storm, we toasted Old England right mer- rily and cordially ; and the conducteui-, seeing us in good humour, told us that " we need not hurry, for that he preferred a dry journey to a wet one." We readily assented to this position ; but within half an hour, the weather clearing, we remounted : and by four o'clock we all got inside— and politics, religion, literature, and the fine arts, kept us in constant dis- course and good humour as we rolled on for many a league. All the way to Troarn (the last stage on this side of Caen) the country presents a truly lovely picture of pasture land. There are occasionally some wooded heights, in which English wealth and English taste would have raised villas of the prettiest forms, and with most commanding views. Yet there is nothing to be mentioned in the same breath with tlie country about Rodwell in Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage as are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut IVyn- hyn De fVorde: but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms and limes, and meadows be- gemmed with butter-cups — these are the characteristics 258 HAVRE TO CAEN. of the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however you look for neat villas or conse- quential farm houses : and as rarely do you see groups of villagers reposing, or in action . . A dearth of popu- lation gives to French landscape a melancholy and soli- tary cast of character. It is in cities that you must look for human beings — andj'or cities the French seem to have been created. Not any thing like an exempli- fication of Watteau's enchanting pieces . . but I check myself — ladies and gentlemen do not stir abroad to dance, swing, romp, and enjoy a fete champetre. When storms and clouds obscure the sky. And thunders roll, and lightnings fly! Yet I shall not easily forget the sweep of country, or continuafion of pasture land, between Pont L'Eveque and Troarn. This latter village is sufficiently poor. We passed a good house to the left, and a delicious trout stream to the right ; but the road itself was absolutely flooded with rain. It was at Troarn, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that our passports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. We surrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen with their cocked hats and blue jackets — having a belt from which a sword was suspended — consulted together for a minute only — returned our keys, and telling us that matters would be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no trouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination — and the Messrs. D * * * and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy being secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curio- CAEN. 259 sity for a view of the steeples of Caen. The country, from Troarn to Caen, gets more into the arable kind ; but, thoug-h flatter and less ornamented with trees, it is fruitful and agreeable to the eye. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizon had become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of St. Stephens ahhey — the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine o'clock ; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very indistinct view of the other churches — but, to my eye, as seen in a lengthened view, and through a treacherous atmosphere, Caen had the appearance of Ojcford upon a diminutive scale. The town itself, like our famous University, is built in a slanting direction ; though the surrounding country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all the population seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude we plunged at once into tu- mult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the Hotel (TEspagne — a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was taken down ; and here we were assailed by gargons de place, with cards in their hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We had somehow got a recommendation to the Hotel Roijale in the Place Roi/ale, — and such a union of 7'01/al adjuncts was irresistible. — Accordingly, we resolved upon moving thither. In a trice our trunks were placed upon barrows : and we marched behind, " in double quick time," in order to secure our pro- perty. The place appeared to improve as we made our different turnings, and gained upon our hotel. " Le voila, Messieurs" — exclaimed our guides and baggage conductors — as we got into a goodly square, 260 CAEN. ^ and saw a fair and comely mansion in front. The rush of landlord, waiting maids, and gargons de place, en- countered us as we entered. "Messieurs, je vous salue," — said a huge, ungracious looking figure — which said figure was nothing less than the master of the hotel — yclep'd Lagouelle. We were shown into a small room on the ground floor to the right — and ordered tea ; but had scarcely begun to enjoy the crackling blaze of a plentiful wood fire, when the said ungracious figure took his seat by the side of us ... to tell us " all about THE DUEL." I had heard (from an English gentleman in the packet boat from Havre to Honfleur,) something res- pecting this most extraordinary duel between a young Englishman and a young Frenchman : but as I mean to reserve my Caen budget for a distinct dispatch, and as I have yet hardly tarried twenty hours in this place, I must bid you adieu, only adding that I dreamt, last night, about some Enghsh antiquaries trying to bend the bow of WilUam the Conqueror ! — Can this be sur- prising ? Again farewell. 201 LETTER Xlll. CAEN. SOIL. SOCIETY. EDUCATION. A DUEL. OLD HOUSES. THE ABBEY OF ST. STEPHEN. CHURCH OF ST. PIERRE DE DERNETAL. ABBE DE LA SAINTE TRINITE. OTHER PUBLIC EDIFICES. I HAVE now resided upwards of a week at La- gouelle's, the Hotel Royale, and can tell you something of the place and of the inhabitants of Caen. But do not expect such a copious or curious sketch of these as you received of Rouen and of the Rouennois. Caen is still-life after Rouen : but it has been, and yet is, a town exceedingly well-deserving the attention of the lounging traveller and of tiie curious antiquary. Its ecclesiastical edifices are more ancient, but less vast and splendid, than those of Rouen ; while the streets and the houses are much more wide and comfortable. This place is the capital of the department of Cal- vados, or of Lower Normandy : and its population is estimated at forty thousand souls. It has a public library, a school of art, a college, mayoralty, and all the etceteras of a corporate society. But I must first give you something in the shape of political economy intelligence. Caen with its arrondissemens of Bayeux, Fire, Falahe, Lisieux, and Pont LEveqiie, is the coun- try of pasturage and of cattle. It is also fertile in the apple and pear ; but from recent experiments made at Argences, they have abandoned all further attempts to cultivate the vine. There are beautiful and most abun- 262 CAEN. • dant market gardens about Caen ; and for the last seven- ty years they have possessed a garden for the growth and cultivation of foreign plants and trees. Just about the establishment of Buonaparte's power they could boast of three thousand plants of this kind, classed accord- ing to the systems of Linnaeus and Tournefort ; but, now, that number is even increased. It is said that more than nine hundred species of plants and trees are to be found in the department of Calvados, of which Caen is the capital ; of which some (but I know not how many or how few) are considered as indigenous. Of forests and trees, the number is comparatively small ; and upon that limited number great injuries were inflicted by the Revolution. In the arrondisse- ment of Caen itself, there are only 344 hectares.^ The truth is, that, in the immediate neighbourhood of popu- lous towns the French have no idea of planting. They suffer plain after plain, and hill after hill, to be denuded of trees, and make no provision for the supply of those who are to come after them. Thus, not only a great portion of the country about Rouen — (especially in the direction of the road leading to Caen — ) is gra- dually left desolate and barren, but even here, as you approach the town, there is a dreary flatness of country, unrefreshed by the verdure of foliage : whereas the soil, kind and productive by nature, requires only the slightest attention of man to repay him a hundred fold ! What they will do some fifty years hence foYfnel,\% quite inconceivable. It is true that the river Orne, by means of the tide, and of its proximity to the sea, brings up * Somewhere about 150 English acres. CAEN. 263 vessels of even 200 tons burden, in which they may stow plenty of wood ; but still, the expenses of carriage, and duties of a variety of description — together with the dependence of the town upon such accidental sup- ply — would render the article of fuel a most expensive concern. It is also true that they pretend that the soil, in the department of Calvados, contains coal ; but the experiments which were made some years ago at Littry, in the arondissement of Baijeux, should forbid the Caennois to indulge any very sanguine ex- pectations on that score. In respect to the trade of the town, the two princi- pal branches are lace and cap making. The former trade is divided with Bayeux ; and both places together give occupation to twenty thousand pair of hands. People of all ages may be so employed ; and the annual gross receipts have been estimated at four millions of francs. But the manufactures of Lisleux form the chief supplies of the department of Calvados. Yet in cap making only, at Caen, four thousand people have been constantly engaged, and a gross produce of two millions of francs has been the result of such branch of trade. A great part of this manufacture was consumed at home ; but more than one half used to be exported to Spain, Portugal, and the colonies belonging to France. They pretend to say, however, that this article of com- merce is much diminished both in profit and reputa- tion : while that of table linen is gaining proportionably in both.* There were formerly great tanneries in * that of table linen gaining proportionably in both."] — Caen was ce- lebrated for its table linen three centuries ago. " Et si ne me puis 264 CAEN. Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade has suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and the ignorance and inat- tention of the masters to recent improvements, intro- duced by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance this misfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciously directed commercial spirit in the article of porcelaine; and if Caen be inferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in the articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that which relates to j)ottery and china : no mean articles in the supply of domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher " pith and moment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed. There is a better spirit of education abroad ; and, comparatively for its size, more science and more literature. This place has been long famous for the education of lawyers. There are two distinct acade- mies — one for " Science and Belles-Lettres" — the other for agriculture and commerce. The Lyc^e is a noble building, close to the Abbey of St. Stephen : but I wish its fagade had been Gothic, to harmonise with this latter. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the prevalent appearance of stone in its public taire qu'il n'y a ville en Europe oil il se face de plus beaux & singulier liiNGE DE TABLE que I'on appelle hautelice — sur lequel les artisans telliers representent toutes sortes de fleurs, bestes, oyseaux, arbres, me- dalles, & armoiries de Rois, Princes, Seigneurs, voire aussi naifue- ment & proprement que le plus estime Peintre pourroit rapporter auecques son pinceau, &c. Bourgueville; Antiquitez de Caen; 1588, 8vo. p. 26, CAEN. 265 buildings. The environs of the town afford quar- ries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a comparatively soft state — and is thus cut into the several forms required with the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding day appears to add to its white tint and durable quality, I saw some important improvements making in the out- skirts of the town,* in which they were finishing * improvements making in the outskirts of the town."] — The faux- bourgs of Caen, in the present day, wear a melancholy contrast to what they appear to have been in the middle of tlie xvith century. Listen to the pleasantly penned description of them by the first topo- grapher of the place ..." auxqueUes les habitans et ieunesse se pour- meinent, prennent plaisir a la saison du printemps, et de I'est^, meme les dcoliers de I'Universite ; les vns k sauter, lutter, courir, iouer aux barres, nager en la rivifere qui les enclot, tirer de Tare, et prendre toutes honnestes recreations, comme aussi font les damoiselles, dames, et bourgeoises, h. y estendre et secher leur beau linge, duquel les dites prairies sont aucunes fois si couuertes quelles semblent plustot blanches que vertes — et au jour des festes apr^s le souper s'y assemblent les grandes compagnies, tant de seigneurs, officiers, dames, damoiselles, bourgeoises, en nombre de trois ^ quatre mile personnes qui s'y pour- menent par troupes, pour y auoir leur plaisir et recreation & voir les passe temps, &c." — Mais encores le plus grand plaisir qui se treuue en telles assemblees, c'est qu'en ce beau printemps vernal Ton y volt le chant et ramage melodieux des rossignols qui fleurissent, fredonnent et degoissent, dedans cette circle et iardins prochains, rapportans par leur chant la memoire de I'histoire de Philomene, &c." Again, a few pages further : " Je dire aussi, auecques assurance, qu'il croist aux beaux prairies et iardins de cette viUe & fauxbourgs des plus excellens et delicats fruits de toutes sortes que en autre ville de France, et de toutes fleurs odoriferentes en de belles & plaisantes trailles, gallerie, pallis- sades & parterres." Bourgueville: Antiquitez deCaen; pp. 5, 6, 26, It may be worth subjoining, from the same interesting authority, that long after the time even of the publication just referred to. 266 CAEN. shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and gratifying-. Still further from the the town of Caen was surrounded by lofty and thick stone walls — upon the tops of which three men could walk a-breastj and from thence the inhabitants could discern " the vessels saiUng in the river Orne, across those large and beautiful meadows, and unloading- their cargoes by the sides of the walls." It appears indeed to have been a sort of a lounge or fashionable promenade— by means of various ladders for the purposes of ascent and descent. Among the old prints and bird's-eye views of Caen, which I saw in the collection of De Boze at the Royal Library at Paris, there is one accompanied by three pages of printed description ; which latter be- gins wiih the lines of Guillaume Breton '' Villa potens, opulenta," &c. ; see post. There is also a very large print oiCaeti, by P. Buache, of the date of 1747 ■• in which, however, the trees are made of more conse- 1 quence than the houses. Also a bird's-eye print of the city, from the pencil of Gombouste. This latter I take to be from Zeiller's Topographia Galliae, voL iii. in which the towers of the Abbaije de la Trinity, and of St. Etienne, having two stories, as it were, are unlike anything we now observe. The view, in other respects, gives a good idea of the town (of the date of 1640-50) and of the precincts of St. Stephen's abbey. The Place Rotjale seems to have been the Place de la Chaussee 5 where we observe a gallows to be erected. Among the drawings, &c. in the royal collection, is one of the castle of Caen, of the date of 1702, rather interesting. The castle is now destroyed. There is also an imposing view of the Abbaye de la TriniU: or rather of the monastery or hospi- tal now attached to it : also of the date of 1702 : a wretched per- formance. An equally faithless view of the abbey of St. Stephen ; of the same date. Evelyn, in 1644, thus describes the town of Caen. '' The whole town is handsomely built of that excel- lent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of Alaternus, having at the en- trance, at an exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary worke, with well understood architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity, &c. Life and Writings of J. Evelyn; 1818, 4to. vol. i. p. 52. CAEN. 267 immediate vicinity of Caen, they find stone of a closer grain ; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavements for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place, which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me as being equally uncommon and curious. It is assert- ed that they have different kinds of mai^hle in the department of Calvados, which equal that of the south of France. At Basly and Vlenx white marble is found which has been judged worthy of a compari- son with Parian ; but this is surely a little presump- tuous. However, it is known that Cardinal Richelieu brought from Vieux all the marble with which he built the chapel in the college of the Sorbonne. Upon the whole, as to general appearance, and as to particular society, Caen may be preferable to Rouen. The costume and manners of the common people are pretty much, if not entirely, the same ; except that, as to dress, the cauchoise is here rather more simple than at Dieppe and Rouen. The upper fille-de-chambre at our hotel displays not only a good correct model of national dress, but she is well-looking in her person, and well-bred in her manners. Mr. Lewis prevailed upon this good-natured young woman to sit for her likeness, and for the sake of her costume. The girl's eyes sparkled with more than ordinary joy at the pro- posal, and even an expression of gratitude mingled it- self in her manner of compliance. I send you, as a rival to the cauchoise Dieppoise* the figure and dress * See p. 32. 268 CAEN. of the fille-de-chambre at the Hotel Roy ale of Caen.* And as a counterpart to it, pray examine this pleasing httle group, of the same character, or order in society, which Mr. L. brought in this morning — from a peramr. bulation in the suburbs of the town before breakfast. It is thus that Norman women sit, and gossip, and work, out of doors, betimes in the morning. Caen is called the depot of the English .-j~ In truth there is an amazing number of our countrymen here. ♦ See the Opposite Plate f d^6t of the English.'] — It was a similar depot in Ducarel's time. Zeu:ion. Fiih^is/ifJ fi'i CAEN. 269 and from very different causes. One family comes to reside from motives of economy ; another from those of education ; a third from those of retirement ; and a fourth from pure love of sitting down, in a strange place, with the chance of making some pleasant con- nection, or of seeking some strange adventure. Good and cheap living, and novel society, are doubtless the main attractions. But there is desperate ill blood just now between the Caennois (I will not make use of the enlarged term Fran9ois) and the English; and I will tell you the cause. Do you remember the em- phatic phrase in my last, " all about the duel?" Listen. About three weeks only before our arrival,* a duel was fought between a young French law stu- dent and a young Englishman, the latter the son of a naval captain. I will mention no names ; and so far not wound the feelings of the friends of the parties con- cerned. But this duel, my friend, has been " the duel of duels" — on the score of desperation and of a fixed pur pose to murder. It is literally without precedent, and I trust will never be considered as one. You must know then, that Caen, in spite of all the '^ bouleversemens" of the Revolution, has maintained its ancient reputation of possessing a very large seminary, or college for stu- dents at law. These students amount to nearly 600 in number. Most young gentlemen under twenty years of * The story was in fact told us the very first night of our arrival, by M. Lagouelle, the master of the hotel royale. He went through it with a method, emphasis, and energy, rendered the more striking from the obesity of his figure and the vulgarity of his countenance. But he frankly allowed that " Monsieur I'Anglois se conduisoit bien." 270 CAEN. age are at times riotous, or frolicsome, or foolish. Gene- rally speaking-, however, the students conduct them- selves with propriety : but there had been a law-suit be- tween a French and English suitor, and the Judge pro- nounced sentence in favour of our countryman. The hall was crowded with spectators, and among them was a plentiful number of law-students. As they were retir- ing, one young Frenchman either made frightful faces, or contemptible gestures, in a very fixed and insulting manner, at a young Englishman — the son of this naval captain. Our countryman had no means or power of noticing or resenting the insult, as the aggressor was surrounded by his companions. It so happened that it was fair time at Caen ; and in the evening of the same day, our countryman recognised, in the crowd at the fair, the physiognomy of the young man who had insulted him in the hall of justice. He approached him, and gave him to understand that his rude beha- viour should be noticed at a proper time and in a proper place : whereupon the Frenchman came up to him, shook him violently by the arm, and told him to " fix his distance on the ensuing morning." Now the habit of duelling is very common among these law- students ; but they measure twenty-five paces, fire, and of course . . . miss — and then fancy themselves great heroes, and there is an end of the affair ! Not so upon the present occasion. " Fifteen paces," if you please — said the student sarcastically, with a conviction of the backwardness of his opponent to meet him. " Five, rather" — exclaimed the provoked antagonist — " I will fight you at five paces :" — audit was agreed that they CAEN. 271 should so meet and fight on the morrow, at five paces only asunder. Each party was under twenty ; but I believe the English youth had scarcely attained his nineteenth year. What I am about to relate will cause your flesh to creep. It was determined by the seconds, as one must necessarily ^a//, from firing at so short a distance, that only one pistol should be loaded with hall: the other having nothing but powder : — and that, as the Frenchman had challenged, he was to have the first choice of the pistols. They parted : the seconds pre- pared the pistols according to agreement — and the fatal morning came. The combatants appeared, with- out one jot of abatement of spirit or of cool courage. The pistols lay upon the grass before them: one loaded only with powder, and the other with powder and ball. The Frenchman advanced : took up a pistol, weighed and balanced it most carefully in his hand, and then . . . laid it down. He seized the other pistol, and cocking it, fixed himself upon the spot from whence he was to fire. The English youth was necessarily compelled to take the abandoned pistol. Five paces were then measured . . and on the signal being given, they both fired . . . and the Frenchman fell . . . dead UPON THE spot! He had in fact taken up and laid down the very pistol which was loaded with the fatal ball, on the supposition of its being of too light a weight ; and even seemed to compliment himself upon his supposed sagacity upon the occasion. But to pro- ceed. The ball went through his heart, as I under- stood. The second of the deceased, upon seeing his friend a reeking corpse at his feet, became mad and VOL. I. R 272 CAEN. outrageous . . and was for fighting the survivor immer diately ! Upon which the lad of mettle and courage replied, that he would not fight a man without a second — " But go," said he, (drawing his watch coolly from out of his fob) I will give you twenty minutes to come back again with your second." He waited, with his watch in his hand, and by the dead body of his antagonist, for the return of the Frenchman ; but on the expiration of the time, his own second conjured him to consult his safety and depart ; for that, from henceforth, his life was in jeopardy. He left the ground ; obtained his passport, and quitted the town instantly ; but he had scarcely lost sight of the field of action a dozen minutes, ere a multitude of students came, determined to avenge the death of their country- man by that of his destroyer ! . . The dead body of the duelUst Was then placed upon a bier : and his funeral was afterwards attended by several hundreds of his companions — who, armed with muskets and swords, threatened destruction to the civil and military autho- rities if they presumed to interfere . . . for the Mayor had, in fact, prohibited the funeral rites to be performed within consecrated ground. All this, my dear friend, has necessarily increased the ill-blood which is ad- mitted to exist between the English and French . . . but the affair is now beginning to blow over — and when one of our fair young countrywomen, who has been visiting in the best circles here, with her mother, (for the last eight or ten months) asked me " how often I had been insulted since my arrival?" — and I rephed " not once" — she expressed herself astonished beyond measure. CAEN. 273 A truce to such topics of vexation and dismay. Only- let us admit that, at this present moment, after what has passed, the wonder may be that the breach is not wider between the Caennois and our countrymen. It is now high time to furnish you with some details relating- to your favourite subjects of architectural and BOOKISH antiquities. The former shall take precedence. First of the streets; secondly of the houses ; and thirdly of the puhiic buildings, ecclesias- tical and civil. Yet a word upon the antiquity of the town itself. Its name, Caen, (Cadomi in Latin) is supposed to be derived from Cad-Hom : a compound word, half Celtic and half Saxon— denoting, in the opinion of Bochart, the place of war. Hence the old words Cad-hom, Cuthien, Cahem — and finally Caen. Let this suffice for etymological research. As to the antiquity of the place, it is supposed never to have been inhabited by the Romans : in other words, not to have existed as a town when they occupied the country : I shall say nothing about its condition during the time of the Saxons ; who, it should seem, made no settlement here ;* but it may be fairly stated that, on the introduc- * the Saxons . . . viade no settlement here.'] — " It was not, however, a great many years after, [the possession of the northern parts of Gaul by the Danes] that it was esteemed one of the chief towns in the pro- vince, as we find in the account of the interview at Rouen, in the year 942, between Louis Ultramarinus, King of France, and RoUo, Duke of Normandy, as given us in a very ancient chronicle of that dukedom. Monsieur De Bras assures us, that in a MS. of the customs of Nor- mandy, written in the time of Duke Rollo, and which had fallen into his hands, Caen is spoken of as a town which then made no contemp- tible appearance ; and in the charter of dotation given by Richard II. 274 CAEN. tion and establishment of Christianity, Caen was at least a more insignificant place than Bayeux ; inasmuch as the Diocesan's see is estabUshed at this latter place — whereas, had Caen been of more local importance, we should not have heard of the Bishop of Bayeux, but of the Bishop of Caen. Let me therefore take you at once to the beginning of the tenth century, when, under the government of the famous Rollo, this place attained strength and celebrity. It appears to have increased in wealth and distinction during the following century. William the Conqueror built a noble abbey here, and chose it as the spot for his interment ; and such was its population and magnificence during the thirteenth century, that a poet of that period has noticed it in the most pointed and commendatory manner.* Before the Revolution it had thirteen parishes, a college, and twenty pubhc establishments for either sex. At pre- sent the number of parishes is reduced to two ; and of the thirteen churches, seen in Ducarel's time, I should Duke of Normandy, to his daughter Adela, upon her marriage with Raynauld Count of Burgundy, the town of Caen, together with its churches, markets, custom-house, quay, and other dependen- cies, are amply specified." Anglo-Norman Antiquities ; p. 48. * a poet has noticed it in the most pointed and commendatory manner."] — This poet is William Le Brito, or Guillaume Breton, who tells us, in his Philipidos, that it was so well peopled, and so magnificently built, that there was no town in all France comparable to it, except Paris. His words are these : ViUa potens, opulenta, situ spatiosa decora ; Fluminibus, pratis, et agrorum fertilitate, Merciferasque rates porta capiente marino ; Seque tot ecclesiis, domibus, et civibus omana, Ut se Parisio vix annuat esse minorem. p. 48-9. CAEN. 275 think it probable that a fourth part has been demo- lished. At least I know that, on the further extremity of the town, beyond the Abbey of St. Stephen, there is little more than the shell of an ancient church, (St. Nicholas,* I think) of which the western end, be- traying the architecture of the thirteenth century, is converted into a blacksmith's shop, and the nave and side aisles are mere stabhng for horses. The Revolu- tion taught the importance of this adaptation to time and circumstances ! HoAvever, to begin with the Streets. Those of aS'^. Pierre, Notre Dame, and St, Jean are thg principal for bustle and business. The first two form one con- tinuous Une, leading to the abbey of St. Stephen, and afford in fact a very interesting stroll to the observer of men and manners. The shops are inferior to those of Rouen, but a great shew of business is discernible in them. The street beyond the abbey, and those called Gmlbert, and des Chanoines, leading towards the river, are considered among the genteelest. Du- carel pronounced the houses of Caen " mean in gene- ral, though usually built of stone;" but I do not agree with him in this conclusion. The open parts about the Lyc^e and the Abbey of St. Stephen, toge- ther with the Place Roy ale, where the library is situated, form very agreeable spaces for the promenade * All that Ducarel says of it, is *' that it is remarkable on account of its great age. " He calls it St. Nicholas des Champs, p. 75. Huet observes that time and the new fortifications had much changed the limits of this parish — which formerly extended as far as the Isle Re- naud, out of the enclosure of the town, behind St, Stephen's. Origines de Caen; p. 258. 276 CAEN. of the ladies and the exercise of the National Guard. The Courts are full of architectural curiosities, but mostly of the time of Francis I. — Indeed that monarch seems to have been particularly anxious, both here and at Rouen, to revive a taste, whether good or bad, for gothic architecture ;* and it is not only in courts, but in public edifices, wherever situated, that you observe specimens of architecture of the early part of the six- teenth century. Of the houses, those witn elaborate carvings in wood, beneath a pointed roof, are doubt- less of the greatest antiquity. There are a great num- ber of these ; and some very much older than others. M. PiERRE-AiME Lair (a worthy gentleman, of whom I shall by and by speak in ample terms) conducted Mr. Lewis and myself to two of these houses — which he deemed the oldest in the town. Tliey are in the Rue St. Pierre : but modern innovations had begun to make encroachments in the one to the left. Mr. L. ob- tained permission to sit in a room on the first floor, on the opposite side of the way, and occupied two mornings in making drawings of these old-fashioned residences. Cast your eye upon them : and tell me whether you are not charmed by the brilliancy and minuteness of touch * a taste, whether good or had, for Gothic architecture.'] — Francis not only introduced a taste for "architecture," but for spectacles, festivities, and gaities of almost every class and description. The account of the triumphal entry of that Monarch and the Dauphin, in the year 1532, by Bourgueville, (taken apparently from his own curious and contem- poraneous publication) may be placed alongside of any thing which has been said of the triumphal entries of Henry II. at Rouen — though even at Caen, Henry took pains to rival the regal pomp of his prede- cessor. Consult the Antiquith de Caen, p. 103—121, &c. CAEN. 277 which the artist has exhibited. At the same time they will remind you of the general character of our older houses in the city of Chester, and elsewhere. They are covered with coats of plaister, the work of succeeding generations. 278 CAEN. A third ciirious old house is to the right hand corner of the street St. Jean ; as yon go to the Post Office. But talking of houses, I must inform you that the resi- dence of the famous Malherbe yet exists in the street leading to the abbei/ St. Et'ienne. This house is of the middle of the sixteenth century : and what Corneille is to Rouen, Malherbe is to Caen. Ici naquit Mal- herbe, &c. as you will perceive from the annexed drawing of this said house, is inscribed upon the front of the building. But Malherbe has been doomed to receive greater honours. His head was the first struck, in a series of medals, to perpetuate the resemblances of the most eminent literary characters (male and fe- male) in France : and it is due to the amiable Pierre- Aime Lair to designate him as the Father of this medallic project. CAEN. 279 Towards the street La belle Croix, is this inscription with the subjoined arms, FRANCISCVS MALHERBVS HASCE AEDES EXTRVI CVRAVIT Towards la Rue de L'Odeon : CIVITATIS ORNAMENTO LARIVMQUE AVITORVM MEMORI^. In perambulating this town, one cannot but be sur- prised at the non-appearance oi fount ains — those charming and commodious pieces of architecture and of street embellishment. In this respect, Rouen has infinitely the advantage of Caen : where, instead of the trickling current of translucent water, we observe nothing but the partial and perturbed stream issuing from ugly wells* as tasteless in their structure as they * ugly wells.'] — Bourgueville seems bitterly to lament the substitu- tion of wells for fountains. He proposes a plan, quite feasible in his 280 CAEN. ai-e inconvenient in the procuring of water. Upon one or two of these wells, I observed the dates of 1560 and 1588. The Public Edifices, however, demand a particular and appropriate description : and first of those of the ecclesiastical order. Let us begin therefore with the Abbey of St. Stephen ; for it is the noblest and most interesting on many accounts It is called by the name of that Saint, inasmuch as there stood formerly a chapel, on the same scite, dedicated to him. The present building was completed and solemnly dedi- cated by William the Conqueror, in the presence of his wife, his two sons Robert and William, his favourite Archbishop Lanfranc, John Archbishop of Rouen, and Thomas Archbishop of York — towards the year 1080 : but I strongly suspect, from the present prevailing character of the architecture, that nothing more than the west front and the towers upon which the spires rest, remain of its ancient structure. The spires (as the Abb6 De La Rue conjectures, and as I should also have thought) are about two centuries later than the towers. The outsides of the side aisles appear to be of the thir- teenth rather than of the end of the eleventh, century. Tlie first exterior view of the west front, and of the own estimation, whereby this desirable object might be effected : and then retorts upon his townsmen by reminding them of the commodious fountains at Lisieux, Falaise and Fire— -of which the inhabitants " n'ont rien espargn^ pour auoir ceste decoration et commodite en leurs villes.'' — spiritedly adding — " si j'estois encore en auctorit^, j'y ferois mon pouuoir, et ie y offre de mes biens." p. 17. CAEN. 281 towers, is extremely interesting ; from the grey and clear tint, as well as excellent quality of the stone, which, according to Hiiet, was brought partly from Vaucelle and partly ft'om Germany. One of the corner abutments of one of the towers has fallen down ; and a great portion of what remains seems to indicate rapid decay. The whole stands indeed greatly in need of reparation. The prettily fashioned Norman stone- tile upon the spires, cannot fail to attract the attention of the antiquary. Ducarel, if I remember rightly,* has made, of this whole front, a sort of elevation as if it were intended for a wooden model to work by : having all the stiffness and precision of an erection of forty- eight hours standing only. As the eye runs along the body of the building, towards the eastern end, a pro- portionate disgust prevails. The central tower is cropt close, and overwhelmed by a roof in the form of an extinguisher. This, m fact, was the consequence of the devastations of the Calvinists ; who absolutely sapped the foundation of the tower, with the hope of over- whelming the whole choir in ruin— but a part only of their malignant object was accomplished. The com- ponent parts of the eastern extremity are strangely and barbarously miscellaneous. However, no good commanding exterior view can be obtained from the * Ducarel, if I remember rightly.'] The plate of Ducarel, here alluded to, forms the fourth plate in his work : affording, from the starch manner in which it is engraved, an idea of one of the most dispropor- tioned, ugly buildings imaginable. Mr. Cotman has favoured us with a good bold etching of the West Front, and of the elevation of com- partments of the Nave : The former is at once faithful and magnificent ; but the lower part wants characteristic markings. 282 CAEN. place, or confined square, opposite the towers. You must therefore turn to the right about, and procure a survey from the more open space, (assuming the cha- racter of boulevards) facing also the Lycee — which em- braces a view of the eastern end, taking in the towers in a veiy picturesque manner. Hither Mr. Lewis and myself resorted ; and while I was seated upon a bench, reading the Abbe De la Rue's recent treatise upon the Armoric Bards (which the venerable author had pre- sented to me on the same morning,) Mr. Lewis was occupied with his pencil in transferring one of the prettiest representations imaginable of the objects be- fore him to his sketch book. It unites the fidelity of antiquarianism with all the picturesqueness of which the subject is capable.* But let^ us go back again to the west-front ; and opening the unfastened green baize covered door, enter softly and silently the venerable interior — sacred even to the feelings of Englishmen ! Of this interior, very much is changed from its original character. The side aisles retain their flattened arched roofs and pillars ; and in the nave you observe those rounded pilasters — or alto-relievo-like pillars — running from bottom to top, which are to be seen in the abbey of Jumieges. The capitals of these long pillars, are comparatively of modern date. To the left on entrance, within a side chapel, is the burial place of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror. The tombstone attesting her interment is undoubtedly of the time. Generally speaking, the in- terior is cold, and dull of effect. A desolate nakedness * See the Opposite Plate. CAEN. 283 prevails, and you are disappointed that you do not see more objects of costliness or curiosity. The side chapels, of which not fewer than sixteen encircle the choir, have the discordant accompaniments of Grecian balustrades to separate them from the choir and nave. There is a good number of confessionals within them ; and at one of these I saw, for the first time, two wo- men, kneeling, in the act of confession to the same priest. " C'^st un pen fort," observed our guide, in an under-voice, and with a humourous expression of countenance ! Meanwhile Mr. Lewis, who was in an opposite direction in the cathedral, was exercising his pencil in the following delineation of a similar subject. iiiiniaBKmmiiliaarapeiSfiwis ^ CAEN. To the right of the choir (in the sacristy, I think,) is hung the huge portrait, in oil, within a black and gilt frame, of which Ducarel has published an engraving,* on the supposition of its being the portrait of William THE Conqueror. But nothing can be more ridicu- lous than such a conclusion. In the first place, the picture itself, which is a palpable copy, cannot be older than a century ; and, in the second place, were it an original performance, it could not be older than the time of Francis I. : — when, in fact, it purports to have been executed — as a faithful copy of the figure of King William as it appearecUto the Cardinals in 1522, who were seized with a sacred phrenzy to take a peep at the body as it might exist at that time ! The cos- tume of the oil painting is evidently that of the time of our Henry VIII. ; and to suppose that the body of William — even had it remained in so surprisingly per- fect a state as Ducarel intimates, after an interment of upwards of four hundred years — could have presented such a costume, when, from Ducarel's own statement, another whole-length representation of the same person is totally different, and more decidedly of the cha- racter of William's time, is really quite a reproach to any antiquary who plumes himself upon the posses- sion even of common sense. In the middle of tlie choir, and just before the high * the huge portrait . . . of iv hie h Ducarel has published an engravi7ig.'] Ducarel shall tell his own prosing tale ; lest, by abridging it, I should be suspected of partiality. I only beg that a second perusal of the text may follow the first perusal of this note : of which latter, indeed, a small portion is not divested of interest. See the next note but two, at page 292. CAEN. 285 altar, the body of the Conqueror was entombed with great pomp; and a monument erected to his memory of the most elaborate and costly description.* Nothing * "^ In the middle of the choir, and just before the high altar, was deposited the body of the founder, William the Conqueror, King of England, and Duke of Normandy, under a most stately monument, erected at the expence of his son, William Rufus, and richly adorned with gold, silver, and precious stones, by one Odo, a goldsmith of Caen. The top stone of the monument was of touch, supported on each side by three pilasters of white marble j and thereon lay the figure of the King, as large as life, dressed in his robes of state ; and at the foot, was the following epitaph, composed by Thomas, Arch- bishop of York. : QUI REXIT RIGIDOS NORTHMANOS ATQUE BRITANOS, AUDACTER VICIT FORTITER OBTINUIT ET CCENOMANENSIS VIRTUTE COERCUIT ENSIS IMPERIIQUE SUI LEGIBUS APPLICUIT REX MAGNUS PARVA JACET HAC GULIELMUS IN URNA SUFFICIT ET MAGNO PARVA DOMUS DOMINO TER SEPTEM GRADIBUS SE VOLVERAT ATQUE DUOBUS VIRGINIS IN GREMIO PHCEBUS ET HIC OBIIT. 1087. In the year 1522, one of the cardinals, attended by an archbishop and several dignified ecclesiastics, visiting the town of Caen, was prompted by a strong curiosity to see the body of the Conqueror j and having, for that purpose, obtained permission from Peter de Martigny, bishop of Castres, who was at that time abbot of St. Stephen, they caused the tomb to be opened. Upon removing the cover stone, the body, which was corpulent, and in stature greatly exceeded the tallest man then known, appeared as entire as when it was first buried. Within the tomb lay a copper plate gilt, on which was engraven the like epitaph with that on the outside of the monument, and beneath it was the fol- lowing inscription in old French : le GuiUaume tres magnanime Due de Neustrie pareil a charlemaigne 286 CAEN. now remains but a flat black marble slab, with a short inscription, of quite a recent date. Passay le mer par un doux vent de sust Pour conquester toute la grand bretaigne Puis desployer tis niaintc noble enseigne Et dresser tentes et pavilions de guerre Et ondrier fis comme fil d'araigne Neuf cent grand's nefz si tost qui euz pied a terre Et puis en armes de la partis granderre Pour coups recenz au doubte roy herault Dont come preux i'euz toute la deferre Non pas sans dui' et marveilleux assault Pour bien jouster le desloyal ribault Je mis a mort et soixante et sept mille Neuf cents dixhuict et par ainsi d'un sault Fuz roy d'anglois tenant toute leur isle Or n'est il nue tant soit fort et habile Qui quant c'est fait apres ne se repose JVIort m'a deflFait que suis il cendre vile De toute choses oujouit une pose. The cardinal, who, as well as the rest of the spectators, was greatly surprised at finding the body in so perfect a state, after having been buried near four hundred and fifty years, in order to perpetuate the memory of so remarkable an incident, procured a picture of the royal remains, in the condition they then appeared, to be painted on board, by the most eminent painter of the place, and caused it to be hung up, together with the before-mentioned original inscription, on the wall of the abbey church, opposite to the monument. The tomb being again carefully closed, remained undisturbed until the year 1 56'J, when the Calvinists, in a religious fury, forced it open, in expectation of meeting with immense treasures, but finding nothing more than the bones of the Conqueror, wrapt up in red taffeta, they threw them about the church in great derision, after having broken in pieces the monument, together with the royal effigies which lay thereon. Most of the bones were afterwards collected together by Monsieur de Bras, and delivered into the custody of Father Michael de Canalle one of the monks and bailly of the abbey, who carefully lodged them in his cell, with an in- CAEN. 287 In the present state of the abbey, and even in that of Ducarel's time, there is, and was, a great dearth of se- pulchral monuments. Indeed I know not whether tent to restore them to their ancient place of sepulture, as soon as the troubles should be ended ; but the town being some time after taken by Admiral Chastellion, the religious were driven from the abbey, and the royal remains once more dispersed. However, the Viscount de Falaise having at the time of these disturbances obtained from the rioters one of the thigh bones, it was by him afterwards deposited in the royal grave. About the same time the picture of the Conqueror's remains, as they appeared lying in the tomb, in the year 1522, fell in the hands of Peter Hodd, gaoler of Caen, and one of the rioters, who converted one part thereof into a table, and used the other as a cupboard door; but these being four years after discovered and re- claimed by Monsieur de Bras, remained in his possession till his death, since which time it is unknown what is become of them, Anglo- Norman Antiquities; p. 51-4. It should be noticed that, " besides the immense benefactions which William in his life time conferred upon this abbey, he, on his death, presented thereto the crown which he used to wear at all high festi- vals, together with his sceptre and rod : a cup set with precious stones ; his candlesticks of gold, and all his regalia; as also the ivory bugle-horn which usually hung at his back." p. 51. note. The story of the breaking open of the coffin by the Calvinists, and finding the Con- queror's remains, is told by Bourgueville — who was an eye witness of these depredations, and who tried to " soften the obdurate hearts" of the pillagers, but in vain. This contemporaneous historian observes that, in his time " the abbey was filled with beautiful and curious stained-glass windows and harmonious organs, which were all broken and destroyed — and that the seats, chairs, &c., and aU other wooden materials were consumed by fire," p. 171 . Huet observes that a " Dom Jean de Baillehache and Dom Matthieu de la Dangie, religious of St. Stephen's, took care of the monument of the Conqueror in the year 1642, and replaced it in the state in which it appeared in Huefs time." Origines de Caen; p. 248. The revolution was still more terrible than Calvinistic fury: — for no traces of the monument are now to be seen. 288 CAEN. you need be detained another minute within the inte- rior ; except it be to add your share of admiration to that which has been long and justly bestowed upon the huge organ* at the west end of the nave, which is * the huge organ] — " The west window is almost totally obscured by a most gigantic organ built close to it, and allowed to be the finest in all France. This organ is so big, as to require eleven large bellows, &c." Ducarel, p. 5/. He then goes on to observe, that " amongst the plate preserved in the treasury of this church, is a curious SILVER SALVER, about ten inches in diameter; gilt, and inlaid with an- tique medals. Tradition assures us, that it was on this salver, that king William the conqueror placed the foundation charter of the abbey when he presented it, at the high altar, on the dedication of the church. The edges of this salver, which stands on a foot stalk of the same metal, are a little turned up, and carved. In the centre is inlaid a Greek medal j on the obverse whereof is tliis legend, Ava-ocv^ip Avxoj/o? : but it being fixed in its socket, the reverse is not visible. The other medals, forty in»number, are set round the rim, in holes punched quite through ; so that the edges of tlie holes serve as frames for the medals. These medals are Roman, and in the highest preservation. They were probably collected by Duke Robert, father of the Conqueror, during his pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and after his death fell into the hands of his son." " The convent is a fine stone building, consisting of two quad- rangles 3 one whereof hath of late been partly rebuilt ; three of its sides being already finished. The galleries and cells for the monks are upon the principal and second stories. Under then), on the ground- floor, is a large refectory, fronting the garden, and near it a hand- some room, well fitted up, called la Salle de compagnie, where, over the chimney, I was shewn a diminished picture of William the Conqueror, copied from the original, still preserved in the porter's lodge, and of which I shall speak hereafter. In the same room are likewise the pictures of the present king and queen of France, that of Cardinal Fleury, formerly abbot of this convent ; and some others. Tlie south side of this quadrangle, which was formerly the abbatial house, is now in a ruinous condition, but is intended to be soon rebuilt. CAEN. 289 considered to be the finest in all France. But Nor- mandy abounds in church decorations of this kind. Leaving' therefore this venerable pile, endeared to the British antiquary by a thousand pleasing associations of ideas, we strike off into an adjoining* court yard, and observe the ruins of a pretty extensive pile of building, which is called by Ducarel the Palace of the Conqueror* But in this supposed palace, in its The second, or inner quadrangle, is very large, but not closely built. Some of the windows of the apartments have pointed arches, but others are circular, as are likewise those of the house at present appro- priated for the abbot's residence, and which was part of the ancient palace. The whole of these buildings is encompassed with large and extensive gardens." Anglo-Norman Antiquities; p. 57. * called by Ducarel the palace of the Conqueror^ — It may be as well to give the whole of Ducarel's account of this palace, as time (even fifty years ! ) has now given it a so decidedly altered character. That the building, in its present construction, was ever inhabited by Wil- liam the Conqueror is utterly absurd to imagine. Ducarel has en- deavoured to render his description more palateable by the addition of a copper plate representation of a portion of this supposed regal resi- dence. But he shall speak for himself. " Within the precinct of this abbey, adjoining to the church, king William the Conqueror built a stately palace, for his own residence : several parts of it still remain ; particularly one apartment, which is very large, and makes a noble appearance. The rooms in this apart- ment are at present used as granaries, but were fomierly caUed the Guard chambers and Baron s hall. These are perhaps as well worth the notice of an English antiquary, as any thing within the province of Normandy. One of these rooms, and indeed the principal now re- maining, was distinguished by the name of the Great Guard Cham- ber. This room, the cieling whereof is vaulted, and forms a most magnificent arch, is lofty, and well proportioned, being one hundred and fifty feet in length, and ninety in breadth. The Avindows on the east and west sides are decorated with fluted piUars^ and at each end is 290 CAEN. present state, most assuredly William I. never resided : for it is clearly not older than the thirteenth century: if a beautiful rose window of stone work, glazed with painted glass of exquisite workmanship. On the nortli sides are two magnificent chim- neys in good preservation ; and round the whole of the room runs a stone bench intended for the convenience of the several persons doing duty therein. The floor is paved with tiles, each near five inches square, baked almost to vitrification. Eight rows of these tiles, running from east to west, are charged with different coats of arms, generally said to be those of the families who attended Duke William in his invasion of England. The intervals between each of these rows are filled up with a kind of tessellated pavement ; the middle whereof represents a maze, or labyrinth, about ten feet in diameter, and so art- fully contrived, that, were we to suppose a man following all the in- tricate meanders of its ^ olutes, he could not travel less than a mile be- fore he got from the one end to the other. The remainder of this floor is inlaid with small squares of different colours, placed alternately, and formed imo draught or chess boards, for the amusement of the soldiery whilst on guard. Turning out of this room on the left hand, you enter into a smaller room, called the Barons Hall, twenty-four feet in breadth and twenty-seven feet in length ; paved with the same sort of tiles as the former — but with this difference, that instead of coats of arms they are stained with figures of stags, and dogs in full chase. The walls of this room seem to have been ornamented with escutcheons of arms painted on heater shields, some of which are still remaining." , The fertile fancy of Ducarel will here have it that " it was in this guard chamber, and the baron's hall adjoining, that King William the Conqueror, as tradition tells us, in the most sumptuous manner enter- tained his mother Arlette with her wedding dinner on the day of her marriage to Harluin Count de Conteville, by whom she had Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, &c. &c." It is further remarkable, that, notwithstanding these rooms have been used as granaries for upwards of four hundred years, neither the damps of the wheat, the turning and shifting of the grain, nor the wooden shoes or spades of the peasants constantly employed in bring- CAEN. 291 ancients. Ducarel saw a great deal more than is now to be seen ; for, in fact, as I attempted to gain entrance into ing in and cleansing the wheat, have in the least damaged the floor, or worn off the painting from the tiles. The only injury this floor hath received, is the taking up some few of the tiles, in order to open funnels through the floor for the more ready conveyance of the corn into the rooms beneath. The great door of the guard room is very curious, and shows the skill of the workmen of those times. It is loaded with fine carvings, and though injured by time and the putting on and pulling off its locks, is well worth observation. Under these rooms is another apartment, supported by fine columns. They were formerly used as waiting rooms for persons of inferior rank, but are now likewise converted into granaries. " Opposite to the great wall, which was taken down about twenty years since, and till that time had for many years served as a dormitory for the monks, stood an ancient chapel, built before the abbey was founded ; upon the outside of the wall of this chapel, were painted in iresco, four portraits, as big as life, representing William the Conqueror, his wife Matilda, and their two sons, Robert and William. The Con- queror was drawn as a very tall man, clothed in a royal robe, and standing on the back of an hound couchant : on his head was a diadem, ornamented with trefoils, his left hand pointed to his breast ; and in his right he held a sceptre surmounted with a fleur de lys. Queen Matilda was dressed in a kirtle and mantle, and had on her head a di- adem similar to that of her husband ; from the under part whereof hung a veil, which was represented as falling carelessly behind her shoulders ; in her right hand was a sceptre, surmounted with a fleur de lys, and in her left, a book : her feet were supported by the figure of a lion. Duke Robert was represented as standing on a hound, and clad in a tunique, over which was thrown a short robe, or mantle, his head was covered with a bonnet ; upon his right hand, clothed with a glove, stood a hawk ; and in his left hand was a lure. The picture of Duke William repreeented him as a youth bare headed, dressed in the same habit as his brother, and standing upon a fabulous monster, pro- bably intended for a double-bodied harpy, it having only one head with the face of a virgin, and two bodies, each resembling in shape VOL. I. S 292 CAEN. what appeared to be the principal room, I was stopped by an old woman, who assured me " qu'il n'y avoit that of a bird ; each of the bodies of this monster terminated in the tail of a cat, and had the hind legs of a swine ; the left hand of this Prince was clothed with a glove, and supported a falcon, which he was feeding with his right. These paintings are supposed to have been coeval with the foundation of the abbey of St. Stephen j and to have been drawn from the life : [of course !] They were destroyed in the vear 1700, when the chapel was pulled down ; but fortunately father Montfaucon had previously procured drawings of them to be made; and from those drawings I have caused them to be engraven." Anglo- Norman Antiquities ; p, 59. I have caused reduced, but faithful, copies of the two first, and the last of these figures to be taken ; and I here put it to the reader how it is possible that such figures, as the first and the last, in such different costumes, can be meant to represent the same person ? In regard to this supposed regal palace, I am surprised how Huet could observe that the abbey and the palace were '' of the same struc- ture." They are surely quite different— unless Huet saw what has since been demolished. That cautious antiquary observer, however. CAEN. 293 rien que du chauffage." It was true enough: the whole of the untenanted interior contained nothing but wood fuel. Returning to the principal street, and making a slight digression to the right, you descend somewhat abruptly by the side of a church in ruins, called St. Etlenne le Vieil. In Ducarel's time this church is described as entire. On the exterior of one of the remaining buttresses is a whole length figure, about four EngUsh feet in height (as far as I could guess by the eye) of a man on horseback — mutilated — tramp- ling upon another man at its feet. It is no doubt a curious and uncommon ornament. But would you believe it? — this figure also, in the opinion of M. Le Bras,* was intended for William properly rejects the supposition that the coat armours are of the time of William the Conqueror. He adds, very judiciously, that, in respect to residence, " he is persuaded that that monarch was more fre- quently at his castle than at his palace." Origines cle Caen; p. 24?. * See the Anglo-Norman Antiquities; p. 7^- Bourgueville favours the same hypothesis,- but his description of the group, as it appeared in his time, trips up the heels of this conjecture. He says that there were, besides the two figures above mentioned, " vn autre homme et femme k genoux, comme s'ils demandoient raison de la mort de leur enfant, qui est vne antiquite de grand remarque dont ie ne puis donner autre certitude de I'histoire." Antiquitez de Caen; p. 39. Now it is this additional portion of the group (at present no longer in existence) which should seem to confirm the conjecture of my friend Mr. Douce — that it is a representation of the received story, in the middle ages, of the Emperor Trajan being met by a widow who de- manded justice against the murderer of her son. The Emperor, who had just mounted his horse to set out upon some hostile expedition, replied, that '' he would listen to her on his return." The woman said, " What, if you never return ?" " My successor will satisfy you" — he replied — ''But how will that benefit you," — resumed the widow. The 294 CAEN. THE Conqueror — representing his triumphant entry into Caen ! As an object of art, even in its present mutilated state, it is highly interesting; and I re- joice that M. Cotman is likely to preserve the little that remains from the hazard of destruction by the fidelity of his own copy of it. It is quite clear that, close to the figure, you discover traces of style which are unequivocally of the time of Francis I. The in- terior of what remains of this consecrated edifice is con- verted into a receptacle for . . carriages for hire. Eheu ! Not far from this spot stood formerly a magnificent Cross — demolished during the memorable visit of the Calvinists. I was told that drawings and prints of it were yet in existence.* In the way to the abbey of the Trinity, quite at the opposite or eastern extremity Emperor then descended from his horse^ and enquiring into the wo- man's case, caused justice to be done to her. Some of the stories say that the murderer was the Emperor's own son, * prints of it [the cross] yet in existence.'] — Bourgueville has fur- nished us with a very minute description of this cross — such as it was before its destruction by the Calvinists. " Ceste grande et belle Croix estoit d'une structure singuliere, dont la masse contenoit quinze pieds de haut, et trente de tour, sur laquelle masse y auoit cinq coulonnes de vingt pieds de haut, & n'auoient que demy pied de diamettre pour chacun chapiteauj sur les dites coulonnes y auoit vne masse de sept pieds de haut & de deux pieds & demy dia- mettre, & entour estoient posees quatre images de cinq pieds de haut, et sur I'amortissement du chapiteau estoit une belle Croix plantee de cinq pieds de hauteur auecques autres imaginaires, et graueures memo- rabies de belle et forte pierre, & tour au tour d'iceUe vn grand escalier de degrez, par les quelz les Catholiques amontoyent & receuoyoient ce signe de Croix au jour des Rameaux, qui leur reduissoit en memoire de la passion de nostre Seigneur. Et en ce quel quartier de St. Estienne, residoient du temps de ma ieuncsse vn bon nombre d'officiers en de belles et magnifiques maisons, &c," Antiquitez de Caen; p. 17. CAEN. 295 of the town, you necessarily pass along the Rue St. Pierre, and enter into the market-place, affording an opening before the most beautiful church in all Normandy. It is the church of St. Pierre de Dernetal* of which I now speak, and from which the * the church of St. Pierre de Dernetal.l — " Situate in the middle of the town, and remarkable for the elegance and beauty of its spire, which is extremely lofty, and so admirably contrived, that, at what part soever of the church you enter, the eye does not discover either of the four columns on which the spire rests. This elegant piece of masonry was completed in the beginning of the xivth century, by [the cost and charges ofj one Nicholas, an Englishman, who was at that time a burgess of Caen, and treasurer of this church. At the time of his death, which happened in June, in the year 1317, the fol- lowing epitaph, preserved by Monsieur de Bras, was composed 3 but it is not altogether certain whether it was ever placed over his grave, or not : LE VENDREDY UEVANT TOUT DROICT LA SAINT CLERQUE LE TEMPS n'eST FROIT TRESPASSA NICOLLE l'aNGLOIS l'an mil trois gens et dix sept SON CORPS GIST CY l'aME A DIEU SOIT CHASCUN EN PRIE CAR c'eST BIEX DROICT. BOURGEOIS ESTOIT DE NOBILE GUISE MOULTE DE BIEN FIST EN CESTE EGLISE TRESORIER EN FUT LONGUEMENT ET PAB LUY ET PAR SA DEVISE FUT LA TOUR EN SA VOYE MISE d'estre faicte si NOBLEMENT, PRUD' HOMS ESTOIT COURTOIS ET SAGE ET SANS ORGUEIL ET SANS OUTRAGE DE TOUS GENS CHERY ET AIME DE SA MORT SE FUT GRAND DOMMAGE SON ESPRIT SOIT EN l'hERITAGE UE PABADIS SOIT HOIR CLAME. 296 CAEN. name of the street is derived. The tower and spire, the effect ofENGLisH liberality, are of the most admirable The remainder (two stanzas), is devoted to his wife — who died the 2d October, in the same year : GRAND DOMMAGE FUT COMME ON SCAIT CAR ELLE ESTOIT BIEN SAGE ET SOBRE OR PRIEZ PAR DEVOTION QU'lLS AYENT PLEINE REMISSION. The body of another of our countrymen, Michael Tregore, the first rector of the University of Caen, lies buried at the entrance of the choir of this church, where his effigies still remains, Te Deum is constantly sung in this church upon all high festivals and other solemn occasions, and from hence it is, that the clergy and religious of Caen set out, in order to make their public processions." Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. 72. Ducarel, in saying that the above epitaph was preserved by M. Le Bras, appears to have been unacquainted with its preservation by Bourgueville a century and a half before. Bourgueville is extremely particular and even eloquent in his account of the tower, &c. He says that he had " seen towers at Paris, Rouen, Toulouse, Avignon, Narbonne, Montpefier, Lyons, Amiens, Chartres, Anglers, Bayeux, Constances, (qu. Coutances?) and those of St. Stephen at Caen, and others, in divers parts of France, which are built in a pyramidal form — but THIS Tower of St. Petek exceeded all the others, as well in its height, as in its curious form of construction." Antiq. de Caen; p. 36. He regrets, however, that the name of the architect has not descended to us. His more particular eulogy upon this tower is worth transcription: " C'est vn grand cas & bien digne de remarque que neanmoins la hauteur de ceste tour piramide, qui semble auoisiner les nues, le soufflement et violence des vents, la rigueur des gellees, la froideur des nieges, gresles, & frimats, I'abondance des pluyes, la ve- hemence des chaleurs du soleil, et orages, la lueur et humidity de la lune, n'ont faict aucun dommage, ny apparence de froissure k au- cunes des pierres de ceste tour depuis son edification." &c. p. 38. At page 145 he relates a hardy adventure of a young man who mounted on the outside to the very summit, to take down the weather cock. lu J I Zsn'd^n.riMishedyfyr tJie. Rev T.KHWd/n. 18 Zl . CAEN. 297 form and workmanship. Mr. Lewis went to the left, facing the great window, at right angles with the Rue St. Pierre, and made the beautiful drawing, of which a copy is here sent you.* Observe the extreme delicacy which had grown stiff, and would not turn — " II auoit (concludes he) vn cerveau bien asseur^j & plus de temerite que de sagesse." Huet is somewhat particular in his account of the locale of the parish of St. Pierre de Darnetal ; observing, first, that it had the names of S. Pierre sous Caen, and S. Pierre du Chdtel en rive. Of the appel- lative " Darnetal," he thus remarks. " Mais le nom qu'on luy a donne, plus communement, a 6te S. Pierre de Darnetal. C'dtoit I'ancien nom du principal lieu de cette paroisse, et peut-^tre de la pa- roisse toute entifere : car le Pont de Saint Pierre, et un moulin sur rOdon, dont il est parle dans la Chartre de fondation de I'Abbaye de S. Etienne, ont porte le nom de Darnetal." Again : " Le nom de Dar- netal que Ton donnoit a ce lieu, semble marquer un bourg, un village, ou une seigneurie." Of the different periods of the completion of the church, he goes on to say: " Quoy qu'il en soit, le batiment a et^ fait h. diverses reprises. M. de Bras en a marque quelques dattes : celle du clocher, en I'an 1308 j celle del'aile du cote du Carrefour, en I'an 1410 j celle de 1' autre aile quelque terns apr^s; le rond-point et les voutes du choeur et des ailes. Tan 1521. Jacques de Cahuignes a donne rang parmi les illustres citoyens de Caen, a Hector Sohieh, c^lebre architectes pour avoir fait les voutes du choeur et des ailes de cette Eglise." Origines de Caen; p. 263, 4, 7, 8 j 1702, 8vo. Huet says not one single word in commendation of the building. He is among the driest of dry antiquaries. Reverting, however, to old BouRGUEViLLE, I cauuot take leave of him without expressing my hearty thanks for the amusement and information which his unosten- tatious octavo volume — entitled Les Recherches et Antiquitez de la Ville et Universitt de Caen, S^c. (A Caen, 1588, 8vo.) has afforded me. And as we love to be made acquainted with the persons of those, from whom we have received instruction and pleasure, so take, gentle reader, a representation of the Portrait of BouRauEviLLE— as it ap- pears on the reverse of the title of the book just mentioned. * See the Opposite Plate. 298 CAEN. Cc Pour trait & maiiit liure Par le Pciiitrc & I'escrit, Feront reuoir ct viure Ta face & ton esprit. I. V. D. L. F Hoc pictoris opus, vigilataque scripta labore Et vultuiii ik, mentem post tua busta fereut. /. Fauquelinua F. CAEN. 299 and picturesque effect of the stone tiles, with which the spire is covered, as well as the lightness and im- posing consequence given to the tower upon which the spire rests! The whole has a charming effect. But severe criticism compels one to admit that the body of the church is defective in point of fine taste and unity of parts. The style is not only florid Gothic, but it is luxuriant, even to rankness, if I may so speak. The parts are capriciously put together : filled, and even crammed, with ornaments of apparently all ages : concluding with the Grecian mixture introduced in the reign of Francis I. The buttresses are, how- ever, generally, lofty and airy. Towards the op- posite extremity of this view, a branch of the river Orne, if not the river itself, runs : and from the prome- nade, or part where the post office is established, the body of the church is seen with all its grotesque and multiform divisions. In the midst of this comphcated and corrupt style of architecture, the tower and spire rise like a structure built by preternatural hands ; and I am not sure that, at this moment, I can recollect any thing of equal beauty and effect in the whole range of ecclesiastical edifices in our own country. Look at this building, from any part of the town, and you must acknowledge that it has the stongest claims The author, who tells us he was born in 1504, lived through the most critical and not unperilous period of the times in which he wrote. His plan is perfectly artless, and his style as completely simple. Nor does his fidelity appear impeachable. Such ancient volumes of topo- graphy are invaluable— as preserving the memory of things and of ob- jects, which, but for such record, must perish without the hope or chance of recovery.. 300 CAEN. to unqualified admiration. The body of the church is of very considerable dimensions. I entered it on a Sunday morning-, about eleven o'clock, and found it quite filled with a large congregation, in which the cauchoise, as usual, appeared like a broad white mass — from one end to the other. The priests were in procession ; one of the most magnificent organs imaginable was in full intonation, with every stop opened ; the voices of the congregation were lustily exercised : and the offices of religion were carried on in a manner which should seem to indicate a warm sense of devotion among the worshippers. There is a tolerably good set of modern paintings (the best which I have yet seen in the interior of a church) of the Life of Christ, in the side chapels. The eastern extremity, or the further end of Our Ladys Chapel, is most hor- ribly bedaubed and overloaded with the most tasteless specimens of what is called Gothic art, perhaps ever witnessed ! The great bell of this church, which has an uncommonly deep and fine tone, is for ever Swinging slow with solemn roar ! that is to say, is tolling from five in the morning till ten at night, for the performance of the several offices of rehgion, so incessantly, in one side-chapel or ano- ther, are these offices carried on within this maternal parish church. I saw, with momentary astonishment, the leaning tower of a church in the Rue St. Jean, which is one of the principal streets in the town : and which is CAExV. 301 terminated by the Place des Cazernes, flanked by the river Orne. In this street I was asked, by a book- seller, two pounds two shillings, for a thumbed and cropt copy of the Elzevlr-Heinshis Horace of 1 629 ; but with which demand I did not of course comply. In fact, they have the most extravagant notions of the prices of Elzevirs, both here and at Rouen. We shall see how this rage increases, or cools, as we approach Paris. But you must now attend me in a visit to the most interesting public building, perhaps all things considered, which is to be seen at Caen : I mean the Ahhey of the Holy Trinity, or L'Abbaye aux Dames.* This abbey was founded by the wife of the Conqueror, about the same time that William erected that of St. Stephen. It was founded for nuns of the Benedictin order. Ducarel's description of it, which I have j ust seen in a copy of the Anglo-Norman Antiquities, in a bookseller's shop, is sufficiently meagre, as are also his plates sufficiently miserable : but things are strange- ly altered since his time. The nave of the church is occupied by a manufactory for making cordage, or twine, and upwards of a hundred lads are now busied in their flaxen occupations, where formerly the nun knelt before the cross, or was occupied in auricular con- fession. The entrance at the western extremity is entirely stopped up : but the exterior gives manifest proof of an antiquity equal to that of the Abbey of St. * Of this building M. Cotman has published the West front, east end, exterior and interior ; great arches under the tower j crypt ; east side of South transept ; elevation of the North side of the choir : eleva- tion of the window } South side exterior ; view down the nave, N.W. direction.* 302 CAEN. Stephen. A representation of the western front of this exterior will be drawn and engraved by M. Cotman ; together with one of the subterraneous Saxon-called arches. The upper part of the towers are palpably of the fifteenth, or rather of the early part of the six- teenth century. I had no opportunity of judging of the neat pavement of the floor of the nave, in white and black marble, as noticed by Ducarel, on account of the occupation of this part of the building by the manufacturing children ; but I saw some very ancient tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removed from the nave or side aisles, and were placed perpendicularly, or rather leaning a little against the sides of the north transept. The nave is entirely ivalled up from the transepts, but the choir is fortunately preserved ; and a more perfect and inte- resting specimen of its kind, and of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen in Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described bv Ducarel, are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars — and walked along the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say : but a more adventurous spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me : for, on quitting day-light, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the central tower — from hence to have a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relate it. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading abso- lutely to . . . nothing : or rather to a dark void space. I happened to be foremost in ascending this, yet grop- ing in the dark — with the guide luckily close behind CAEN. 303 me : and having- reached the topmost step, was raising my foot to a supposed higher or succeeding step . . . but there was none ! A depth of eighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I was about to lose my balance — and roared out ^' Arretez — tenez !" The least balance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these critical occasions : when luckily, from his catching my coat, and thereby pulling me slightly backwards, my fall . . and my life . . were equally saved ! I have reason from henceforth to remember the Abba ye aux Dames at Caen. However, let us proceed. We gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude with those of the western extremity, and from thence sur- veyed the town, as well as the drizzling rain would per- mit us. I saw enough however to convince me that the scite of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly upon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition to mount to the top of the tower ; and did not even possess that most commendable of all species of architectural cu- riosity, a wish to visit the crypt. Thus, in either extre- mity — whether to gaze upon the starry heavens, or to commune with the silent dead — we evinced a more laudable spirit of enterprise than did our old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from the summit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. We descended by the same (somewhat intricate) route, and I took especial care to avoid all " temporary wooden stair-cases." The crypt, beneath the choir, is perhaps of yet greater interest and beauty than the choir itself. Within an old, very old stone coffin — at S04 CAEN. the further circutar end — are the pulverized remains of one of the earliest Abbesses. I gazed around with mixed sensations of veneration and awe, and threw my- self back into centuries past, fancying that the shroud- ed figure of Matilda herself glided by, with a look as if to approve of my antiquarian enthusiasm. Having gratified our curiosity by a careful survey of this sub- terraneous abode, we revisited the regions of day-light, and made towards the large building, now a manufac- tory, which in Ducarel's time had been a nunnery.* * bi DucareVs time had been a nunnery.'] — Ducarel's account of this nunnery, is as follows : — " I was not permitted to see any other part of the Abbey, except the Lady Abbess's parlour, which is a small room commanding a most delightful prospect of the country, extending to a great distance, this abbey being situated on a very high hill. Among the muniments preserved here, is a very curious manuscript, containing an account of the foundress. Queen Matilda's wardrobe, jewels, toi- lette, &c. but I was not able to procure a copy of it, neither would the abbess admit me to a sight of a very ancient picture which hangs in one of the rooms, and is generally thought to be that of Matilda, their first abbess, dressed in the habit of a nun ; though some are rather inclined to believe it to be the picture of the royal foundress. Cicely, eldest daughter of WiUiam the Conqueror, having in the year 1075, made her profession at Fescamp, was, upon the dedication of this church, removed hither, in order to be educated under the care of Matilda the first abbess, upon whose decease she succeeded to the go- vernment of the abbey ; which she managed with singular piety, for the space of fifteen years, and dying upon the 13th day of July in the year 11 26 was buried in the church of the monastery, having worn a religious habit for the space of fifty-two years. From that time the government hath constantly been conferred on ladies of the first rank. All the nuns are likewise daughters of persons of high birth, no others being admitted to take the veil here." — Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. Q6. There is of course an end to every thing of the kind at the present day. CAEN. 305 The revolution has swept away every human being in the character of a nun ; but the director of the manufactory shewed us, with great civility, some relics, of oldc rosses, rings, veils, lachrymatories, &c. which had been taken from the crypt we had recently visited— on account of erecting some tomb, or eleva- ting some portion of the ground, to the remains of a person of distinction— whether of old or modern times, I cannot just now recollect, 'i'hese rehcs savoured of considerable antiquity. Tom Hearne would have set about proving that they must have belonged to Ma- tilda herself; but I will have neither the presumption nor the merit of attempting this proof. They seemed indeed to have undergone half a dozen decompositions. Upon the whole, if our Antiquarian Society, after having exhausted the cathedrals of their own country, should ever think of perpetuating the principal eccle- siastical edifices of Normandy, by means of the Art of Engraving, let them begin their labours with the Abbaye aux Dames at Caen. The foregoing, my dear friend, are the principal ecclesiastical buildings in this place. There are other public edifices, but comparatively of a modern date. And yet I should be guilty of a gross omission were I Bourgueville describes the havoc which took place within this abbey at the memorable visit of the Calvinists in 1 562 . From plundering the church of St. Stephen (as before described p. 386,) they proceeded to commit similar ravages here:—'' sans auoir respect ni reuerence k la Dame Abbesse, ni a la religion et douceur feminine des Dames Reh- gieuses."— " plusieurs des officiers de la maison s'y trouuerent, vsans de gracieuses persuasions, pour penser flechir le coeur de ces plus que brutaux:"- p. 174. 306 CAEN. to neglect giving you an account, however superficial, of the remains of an apparently castellated build- ing, a little beyond the Abbaye aux Dames — or rather to the right, upon elevated ground, as you enter the town by the way we came. As far as I can discover, this appears to have escaped Ducarel.* It is doubtless a very curious relic. Running along the upper part of the walls, is a series of basso-relievo heads, medal- lion-wise, cut in stone, evidently intended for por- traits. They are assuredly not older than the reign of Francis I. but may be even as late as that of Henry II. Among these rude medallions, is a female head, with a ferocious-looking man on each side of it, either salut- ing the woman, or whispering in her ear. But the most striking objects are the stone figures of two men — upon a circul?ir tower — of which one is in the act of shooting an arrow, and the other as if holding a drawn sword. We got admittance to the interior of the building ; and ascending the tower, found that these were only the trunks of figures, — and removable at pleasure. We could only stroke their beards and * appears to hate escaped Ducarel.'] — Unless it be what he calls " the FORT OF THE HoLY Trinity OF Caen ; in which was constantly kept a garrison, commanded by a captain, whose annual pay was 100 single crowns. This was demolished by Charles, king of Navarre, in the year 1360, during the war which he carried on against Charles the dauphin, afterwards Charles V., &c."' Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. 67. This castle, or the building once flanked by the walls above described, was twice taken by the English : once in 1 346, when they made an immense booty, and loaded their ships with the gold and silver vessels found therein — and the second time in 1417j) — when they established themselves as masters of the place for 33 years. Annuaire du Calva- dos ; 1803-4 5 p. 63. CAEN. 307 shake their bodies a little, which we of course did with impunity. Whether the present be the original place of their destination may be very doubtful. The Abbe de la Rue, with whom I discoursed upon the sub- ject yesterday morning, is of opinion that these figures are of the time of Louis XI. : wliich makes them a little more ancient than the other ornaments of the build- ing. As to the interior, I could gather nothing with certainty of the original character of the place from the present remains. The earth is piled up, here and there, in artificial mounds covered with grass : and an or- chard, and rich pasture land (where we saw several women milking cows) form the whole of the interior scenery. However the Caennois are rather proud of this building. Leaving you to your own conclusions respecting the date of its erection, and " putting the colophon" to this disquisition respecting the principal public buildings at Caen, it is high time to assure you how faithfully I am always yours. , OL 1. 308 LETTER XIV. LITERARY SOCIETY. ABBE DE LA RUE. MESSRS. PIERRE-AIME LAIR AND LAMOUROUX. MEDAL OF MALHERBE. BOOKSELLERS. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. MEMOIR OF THE LATE M. MOYSANT, PUBLIC LIBRA- RIAN. MANUSCRIPTS AND PRINTED BOOKS. PRO- TESTANT PLACE OF WORSHIP. COURTS OF JUSTICE. From the dead let me conduct you to the living. In other words, prepare to receive some account of Society, — of Libraries — and of things appertaining to the formation ot the intellectual character. Caen can boast of a public Literary Society, and of the publica- tion of its memoirs.* But these " memoirs" consist at present of only six volumes, and are in our own coun- try extremely rare. My excellent friend, Pierre- Aim^ Lair, made me a present of a set, which I intend for Lord Spencer's library. The volumes are in crown octavo, tolerably well printed. Among the men whose moral character and literary reputation throw a sort of lustre upon Caen, there is no one perhaps that stands upon quite so lofty an emi- * M4moires de I'Academie des Belles Lettres de Caen. Chez Jacques Manoury, 1757, 4 vols, crown Svo. Rapport g^n4rale sur les travaux de I'Academie des Sciences, Arts, et Belles Lettres de la villede Caen, jusqu'au premier Janvier, 1811. Par P. F. T. Delariviere, Secretaire. A Caen, chez Chalopin. An. 1811—15. 2 vols, on different paper, with diffe- rent types, and provokingly of a larger form than its precursor. CAEN. 309 nence as the Abbe de la Rue ; at this time occupied in pubhshing" a /T/^^on/ of Caen in two quarto volumes. As an archaeologist, he has no superior among his coun- trymen; while his essays upon the Baijeux Tapestry and the Anglo-Norman Poets, published in our Arclueologia, prove that there are few, even among ourselves, who could have treated those interesting subjects with more dexterity or better success. The Abb6 is, in short, the great archaeological oracle of Normandy. He was pleased to pay me a visit at Lagouelle's. He is fast advancing towards his seventieth year. His figure is rather stout, and above the mean height : his com- plexion is healthful, his eye brilliant, and a plentiful quantity of waving white hair adds much to the expres- sion of his countenance. He enquired kindly after our mutual friend Mr. Douce ; of whose talents and character he spoke in a manner which did equal honour to both. But he was inexorable, as to — not dining with me ; observing that his Order was forbidden to dine in taverns. He gave me a list of places which I ought to visit in my further progress through Nor- mandy, and took leave of me more abruptly than I could have wished. He rarely visits Caen, though a great portion of his library is kept there : his abode being chiefly in the country, at the residence of a noble- man to whose son he was tutor. It is delightful to see a man, of his venerable aspect and widely extended reputation, enjoying, in the evening of life, (after brav- ing such a tempest, in the noon-day of it, as that of the Revolution) the calm, unimpaired possession of his faculties, and the respect of the virtuous and the wise. The stiidy of Natural History obtains pretty gene- 310 CAEN. rally at Caen ; indeed they have an Academy in which this branch of learning is expressly taught — and of which Monsieur Lamouroux* is at once the chief ornament and instructor. This gentleman (to whom our friend Mr. Dawson Turner furnished me with a letter of introduction) has the most unaffected man- ners, and a countenance particularly open and winning. He is " a very dragon" in his pursuit. On my second call, I found him busied in unpacking some baskets of sea-weed, yet reeking with the briny moisture ; and which he handled and separated and classed with the same eagerness that we have seen our friend * * * run through an auction lot of books with "13 more !" The library of Mr. Lamouroux is quite a workman-like library : filled with sensible, solid, and instructive books. His itiansion, in the Rue Jaime, is of much narrower dimensions than his mind. Though he be a member of the Institute, he spoke of Sir Joseph Banks, and of our literary Societies, in a manner which did him infinite honour — and if he had only accepted a repeated and strongly-pressed invitation to dine with me at Lagouelle's, to meet his learned brother Pierre- Aime Lair, nothing would have been wanting to the completion of his character. There's elevation of sen- timent for you ! What alert creatures these Savants are. They rise before six, and labour incessantly in their respective vocations (chiefly in the instruction of youth,) till dinner-time, at twelve or one ; and then " at it again" till six in the afternoon. * Monsieur Lamouroux.'] — He has recently (1816) published an oc- tavo volume entitled " Histoire des Polypiers, Coralligenes Flexibles, vulgairement nommis Zoophytes. Par J. V. F. Lamouroux. CAEN. 311 You have frequently read the name of Pierre-Aime Lair. Prepare to receive a sketch of the character to which that name appertains. But what a pallet of colours should I possess for such a task ! — or, rather, what dexterity of handling- were required if such a pal- let could be furnished ? With what " hues, tints, tones, and masses," should the picture glow ! A truce to com- mon-place exclamation — and receive, in good sooth, a very homely and very sober, but very faithful, descrip- tion. This gentleman is not only the life and soul of the society — but of the very town — in which he moves. Mr. L. and myself walked with him, more than once, through very many streets, passages, and courts, which were distinguished for any relic of architectural anti- quity. He was recognised and saluted by nearly one person out of three—at all distinguished for respecta- bility of appearance — in our progress. " Je vous salue'* — " vous voila avec Messieurs les Anglois" — " bon jour," — " comment 9a va-t-il r*" — The activity of Pierre-Aime Lair is only equalled by his goodness of heart and friendliness of disposition. He is all kind- ness. Call when you will, and ask for what you please, the object solicited is sure to be granted. He never seems to rise (and he is a very early riser) with spleen, ill-humour, or untoward propensities. . With him, the sun seems always to shine, and the lark to tune her carol. And this cheerfulness of feeling is carried by him into every abode however gloomy, and every society however dull. In short, he is always the gay and the good-natured Pierre-Aime Lair. But more substantial praise belongs to this amiable man. Not only is Pierre-Aim^ Lair a lover and col- 312 CAEN. lector of tangible antiquities — such as glazed tiles, broken busts, old pictures, — and fractured capitals — all seen in " long array" up the windings of his stair- case — but he is a critic, and a patron of the literary antiquities of his country. Caen (as I told you in my last despatch) is the birth-place of Malherbe ; and, in the character now under discussion, it has found a per- petuator of the name and merits of the father of French verse. In the year 1806 our worthy antiquary put forth a project for a general subscription " for a medal in honour of Malherbe'* — which project was in due time * subscription for a medal in honour 0/ Malherbe.] — The medallic project here alluded to is one which does both the projector, and the arts of France, infinite honour ; and I sincerely wish that some second Simon may rise up among ourselves to emulate, and if possible to surpass, the performances of Gatteaux and Audrieu. The former is the artist to whom we are indebted for the medal of Malherbe, and the latter for the series of the Buonaparte-medals. M. Lair told me that his subscribers amounted to 1500 in number j nor do I think this, from evidence of the printed brochure before me, an exaggerated statement. The price of the head in bronze is 5 francs j and with the addition of a ring, one quarter of a franc more. CAEN. 313 rewarded by the names of fifteen hundred efficient sub- scribers, at five francs a piece. The proposal was doubtless fliattering to the literary pride of the French ; and luckily the execution of it surpassed the expecta- tions of the subscribers. The head is undoubtedly of the most perfect execution ; and almost puts me in a fever, on contemplating it, when I think upon the com- paratively decrepid state of the medallic art in our own country. Wherefore is it so ? Not only, however, did this head of Malherbe succeed — ^but a feeling- was ex- pressed that it might be followed up by a series of heads of the most illustrious, of both sexes, in literature and the fine arts. The very hint was enough for Lair : though I am not sure whether he be not the father of the latter design also. Accordingly, there has appear- ed periodically a set of heads of this description, in bronze or other metal, as the purchaser pleases, which has reflected infinite credit not only upon the name of the projector of this scheme, but upon the present state of the fine arts in France. On the reverse is a lyre, surmounted by a laurel erown, with this emphatic inscription j. ENFIN MALHERBE VINT. which is taken from the well-known passage in Boileau's Art Pjoetique beginning thus : Enfin Malherbe vint, et le premier en France, Fit sentir dans les vers une juste cadence j D'un mot mis en sa place enseigne le pouvoir, Et reduisit la muse aux regies du devoir. The profile of Madame de Sevigne, executed by the same able me- dallist (Gaiteaux), has in every respect equal merit. 314 CAEN. Yet another word about Pierre-Aim^ Lair. He is not so inexorable as M. Lamouronx: for he has dined with me, and quaffed the chambertin and champagne of La- gouelle, commander in chief of this house. Better wines cannot be quaffed ; and Malherbe and the Duke of Wel- lington formed the alternate subjects of discourse and praise. In return, Mr. L. and myself dined with our guest. He had prepared an abundant dinner, and a very select society : but although there was no wand, as in the case of Sancho Panza, to charm away the dishes, &c. or to iaterdict the tasting of them, yet it was scarcely possible to partake of one in four . . so unmercifully were they steeped and buried in butter. Among various vegetables was a dish of " pommes de terre, a la mode Angloise " — professed so to be — but utterly untoucfiable. They were almost floating in the liquified produce of the dairy. However there was an excellent course of pastry ; and, better than all the wines, was the society which encircled the table. The principal topic of discourse was the me- rits of the poets of the respective countries of France and England, from which I have reason to think that Pope, Thomson, and Young, are among the great- est favourites with the French. The white brandy of Pierre-Aime Lair, introduced after dinner, is hardly to be described for its strength and pungency. " Vous n'avez rien comme 9a chez vous ?" " Ma foi je le crois bien ; c'est la liquefaction meme du feu." We broke up before eight ; each retiring to his respective avoca- tions — but we did not dine till five. I borrowed, how- ever, " an hour or twain" of the evening, after the de- parture of the company, to enjoy the more particular CAEN. 315 conversation of our host ; and the more I saw and conversed with him, the greater was my gratification. At parting, he loaded me with a pile of pamplilets, of all sizes, of his own pubUcation; and I ventured to predict to him that he would terminate his multifa- rious labours by settMng into consohdated Biblioma- NiACiSM. " On peut faire pire!"— was his reply— on shaking hands with me, and teUing me he should cer- tainly meet me again at Bayeiix, in my progress through Normandy. My acquaintance and walks with this amiable man seemed to be my security from insults in the streets. But I must absolutely now have done with him : delightful as it is to think upon, and to record, acts of friendliness and liberahty in a fo- reign land. Education, here commences early, and with incite- ments as alluring as at Rouen. Poisson in the Rue Froide is the principal — and indeed a very excellent — printer ; but Bonneserre, in the same street, has put forth a vastly pretty manual of infantine devotion, in a brochure of eight pages, of which I send you the first, and which you may compare with the specimen transmitted in a former letter.* * See page \S7, ante. 316 CAEN. m •$• be d e J fghikll m n o p q ♦ ristuvxyz&l f J g ae oe ^. UOraison dominicale. p A T E R nos- 1 ter, qui es in | Chalopin, in the Rue-Froide-Rue, has recently pub- lished a most curious little manual, in the cursive se- cretary gothic, entitled " La Civility honn^te pour les Enfaris, qui commence par la maniere d'apprendre et Men lire, prononcer et ^crirer I call it " curious," be- CAEN. 317 cause the very first initial letter of the text, represent- ing C, introduces us to the bizarrerie of the early part of the xvith century in treatises of a similar character. Take this first letter, with a specimen also of those to which it appertains. gfHj qui cottitMtnctf' n<^*jdoit »tononctji4 This work is full of the old fashioned (and not a bit the worse on that account) precepts of the same pe- riod ; such as we see in the various versions of the " De Moribus Juvenum," of which the " Contenance de la Table,'' in the French language, is probably the most popular. It is executed throughout in the same small and smudged gothic character ; and, as I con- ceive, can have few purchasers. The printers of Caen must not be dismissed without respectful mention of the typographical talents of Le Roy ; who ranks after Poisson. Let both these be considered as the Bulmer and Bensley of the place. But among these venders of infantine literature, or of cheap popular pieces, there is no man who " drives such a trade" as Picard-Guerin, Jmprlmeur en taille- 318 CAEN. douce et Fahricant d' Images,'' who lives in the Rue des Teinturlers, n°. 175. I paid him more than one visit ; as, from his " fabrication," issue the thousands and tens of thousands of broadsides, chap-books, &c. &c. which inundate Lower Normandy. You give from one to three sous, according" as the subject be simple or compound, upon wood or upon copper : — Saints, mar- tyrs, and scriptural subjects ; or heroes, chieftains, and monarchs, including the Duke of Wellington and Louis XVIII. le Desire — are among the taille-douces speci- fied in the imprints. Madame did me the honour of shewing me some of her choicest treasures, as her hus- band was from home. Up stairs was a parcel of mirthful boys and girls, with painting brushes in their hands, and saucers of various colours before them. Upon enquiry, I found that they received four sous per dozen, for co- louring ; but I will not take upon me to say that they were over or under paid — of so equivocal a character were their performances. Only I hoped to be excused if I preferred the plain to the coloured. In a foreign coun- try, our notice is attracted towards things perhaps the most mean and minute. With this feeling, I examined carefully what was put before me, and made a selection sufficient to shew that it was the produce of French soil. Among the serious subjects, were two to which I paid particular attention. The one was a metrical cantique of the Prodigal Son, with six wood cuts above the text, exhibiting the leading points of the Gospel-narrative. I will cut out and send you the second of these six : in which you will clearly perceive the military turn which seems to prevail throughout France in things the most minute. The Prodigal is about to mount his horse and CAEN. 319 leave his father's house, in the cloke and cock'd hat of a French officer. ^Mn/a The fourth of these cuts is droll enough. It is entitled, " U Enfant Prodigue est chasse par ses mattresses " The expulsion consists in the women driving him out of doors with besoms and hair-brooms. It is very pro- bable, however, that all this character of absurdity attaches to some of our own representations of the same subject; if, instead of examining (as in Pope's time) .... the walls of Bedlam and Soho. we take a survey of the graphic broadsides which dangle from strings upon the wall at Hyde Park Corner. Another subject of a serious character, which I am about to describe to you, can rarely, in all probability^ 320 CAEN. be the production of a London artist. It is called " Notre-Dame de la bonne Ddlivrande,'' and is neces- sarily confined to the rehgion of the countiy. You have here, first of all, a reduced form of the original : probably about one-third — and it is the more appro- priate, as it will serve to give you a very correct notion of the dressing out of the figures of the Virgin and Child which are meant to grace the altars of the chapels of the Virgin in most of the churches in Nor- mandy. CAEN 321: To describe all the trumpery which is immediately around it, in the original, would be a waste of time ; but below are two good figures to the right, and two wretched ones to the left. Beneath the whole, is the following accredited consohng piece of inteUigence : Kan 830, des Barbares descendent dans les Gaules, massacrent les Fideles, profanent et brMent les Eglises. Raoul, Due de Normandie, se joint a eux: I'image de la Ste.-Vierge demeure ensevelie sous les mines de Vancienne chapelle jusqu'au regne de Henri I. Van 1331. Beaudouin, Baron de Doiwres, averti par son herger qu'un mouton de son troupeau fouillait toujours dans le mdme endroit, Jit ouvrir la terre, et trouva ce tresor cacU depuis tant d'annies. II fit porter processionnellement cette sainte image dans VEglise de Douvres : mais Dieu permit quelle fut transportee par un Ange dans V endroit de la chapelle oH e.lle est mainte- nant rheree. C'est dans cette chapelle que, par l' intercession de Marie, les pecheurs reroivent leur conversion, les affligh lew consolation, les in- firmes la sant4, les captifs leur delivrance, que ceux qui sont en mer echappent aux temp^tes et au naufrage, et que des miracles s'operent journellement sur les pieux Fideles. A word next for Bibliopolists —including Bou- quhiistes, or venders of " old and second-hand books." The very morning following my arrival in Caen, I walked to the abbey of St. Stephen, before breakfast, and in the way thither stopped at a book stall, to the right, within one hundred yards of the " Place" before the said abbey — and purchased some black letter fohos : among which the French version of Ccesars Commentaries, printed by Verard, in 1488, was the most desirable acquisition. It is reserved for Lord Spencer s library ;* at a price which, freight and duty *for Lord Spencers Library .1— and is described in the 2d vol. of the JEdes Althorpian^ ; forming the Supplement to the Biblio- THECA Spenceriana : see page 94. 322 CAEN. included, cannot reach the sum of twelve shillings of our money. I carried it home, triumphantly beneath my arm, wishing-, however, it had been in a little more desirable condition. Of venders of second hand and old books, the elder and younger Ma- NOURY take a decisive lead. The former lives in the Rue Froide ; the latter in the Rue Notre Dame. The father boasts of having upwards of thirty thousand volumes, and is tolerably knowing in the " arte and crafte" of vendition. But I mucli doubt whether his stock amount to one half of the number just mention- ed. He asked me two louts d'or for a copy of the Vaudevires o/' Olivier Basselin, which is a modern, but privately printed, volume ; and of which I hope to give you some amusing particulars anon. He also told me that he had formerly sold a paper copy of Fust's Bible of 1462, with many of the illuminated initials cut out, to the library of the Arsenal, at Paris, for 100 louis d'or. I only know that, if I had been librarian, he should not have had one half the money. It is ra- ther singular that, both here and at Rouen, I have not found a single copy of the AngUca Normanica of Du Chesne : nor indeed does Manoury the elder pos- sess any stock of vendible volumes in the way of lite- rature or antiquities, either in the French or in the Latin language. Now for Manoury the younger. Old and young are comparative terms : for be it known that the son is " age de soixante ans." Over his door you read an ancient inscription, thus : " BattUy perc^, lie, Je veux changer^ demain'' CAEN. 323 This implies either (like Aladdin's old lamps for new) that he wishes to give new books in exchange for old ones, or that he can smarten up old ones by binding or otherwise, and give them a renovated appearance. But the solution is immaterial : the inscription being as above. The interior of the younger Manoury's book repository almost appalled me. His front shop, and a corridore communicating with the back part of the house, are rank with moisture ; and his books are consequently rotting apace. Upon my making as pitiable a statement as I was able of this melancholy state of things — and pleading with all my energies against the inevitable destruction which threatened the Jjcar fioRe^ — the obdurate bibUopolist displayed not one scintillation of sympathy. He was absolutely indif- ferent to the whole concern. In the back parlour, al- most impervious to day-light, his daughter, and a stout and handsome bourgeoise, with rather an unusually elevated cauchoise, were regaling themselves with soup and herbs at dinner. I hurried through, in my way to the upper regions, with apologies for the intru- sion ; but was told that none were necessary — that I might go where, and stay as long, as I pleased ; and that an explanation would be given to any interroga- tory in the way of business. I expressed my obliga- tions for such civihty ; and gaining an upper room, by the help of a chair, made a survey of its contents. What piles of interminable rubbish! I selected, as the only rational or desirable volume — half rotted with moisture — Belons Marine Fishes, 1551, 4to; and placing six francs (the price demanded) upon the table, hurried back, through this sable and dismal ter- 324 CAEN. ritory, with a sort of precipitancy amounting to horrour. What struck me, as productive of a very extraordinary effect — (like the light pouring through an artificial aperture in one of Rembrandt's pic- tures — thereby giving a radiant magic to the whole) was the cheerfulness and gaiete de coeur of these fe- males, in the midst of this region of darkness and de- solation. Manoury told me that the Revolution had deprived him of the opportunity of having the finest bookselling stock in France ! His own carelessness and utter apathy are likely to prove yet more destruc- tive enemies. But let us touch a more " spirit-stirring" chord in the book theme. Let us leave the Bouquiniste for the PUBLIC library: and I invite you most earnestly to accompany me thither, and to hear matters of especial import. This library occupies the upper part of a fine large stone building, devoted to the public offices of government. The plan of the library is exceedingly striking; in the shape of a cross. It measures one hundred and thirty- four, by eighty, French feet ; and is supposed, apparently with justice, to contain 20,000 volumes. It is proportionably wide and lofty. M. He- BERT is the present chief librarian, having succeeded the late M. Moysant, his uncle. Of this latter presently. Among the more eminent benefactors and Biblioma- niacs, attached to this library, the name of Francois Martin is singularly conspicuous. He was, from all accounts, and especially from the information of M. Hubert, one of the most raving of book-madmen : but he displayed, withal, a spirit of kindness and liberality towards his favourite establishment at Caen, which CAEN. 32£> could not be easily shaken or subdued. He was also a man of letters, and evinced that most commendable of all literary propensities — a love of the Literature of HIS Country. He amassed a very large collection of books, which was cruelly pillaged during- the Revolu- tion; but the public library became possessed of a great number of them. In those volumes, formerly belonging to him, which are now seen, is the following printed inscription : " Franciscus Martin, Doctor Theo- logus Parisiensis, comparavit. Oretur pro eo." He was head of the convent of Cordeliers, and Prefect of the Province: but his mode of collecting was not ex- actly that which a public magistrate could call legiti- mate. He sought books everywhere; and when he could not buy them, or obtain them by fair means, he would steal them, and carry them home in the sleeves of his gown ! He flourished about a century ago ; and, with very few exceptions, all the best conditioned books in the library belonged to this magisterial book- robber. Among them I noted down with singular sa- tisfaction the Aldine edition of Stephanus de Urhibiis, 1502, foUo — in its old vellum binding: — seemly to the eye, and comfortable to the touch. Nor did his copy of the Repertorium Statutorum Or dims Cartusiensis, printed by Amerhach, at Basil, in a glorious gothic character, 1510, folio, escape my especial notice — more than the same Bibliomaniac's beautiful copy of the Mentz Herbal, of 1484, in 4to. But the obliquities of Martin assume a less formi- dable aspect, when we contemplate a noble work, which he not only projected, but left behind ready for pubhcation. It is thus entitled : Athence Normanno- VOL. I. u 326 CAEN. 7mm veteres ac recentes, sen syllabus Auctorum qui oriundi e Normanma,'' 8^c. It consists of one volume, in MS., having the authority of government to publish it, prefixed. Tliere is a short Latin preface, by Martin, followed by two pages of Latin verses beginning thus : In Auctorum Normanicorum Syllahum. Prolusio metrica. En Syllabus prodit palam Contextus arte sedula Ex Litter a tee Neustrice Auctoribus celebribus. Why this work has not been taken up and published by the Academy of Caen, seems rather strange — if tbey possess the pecuniary means of bringing it to light. But the " Saturnia regna," should they ever " return" to France, may give animation to this inactivity, and pour a little gold into the emptied coffers of the trea- sury. Among the men, the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen,* was the famous Samuel Bochart ; at once a botanist, a scholar, and a critic of distin- guished celebrity. He was a native of this place, and his books (many of them replete with valuable ms. notes) are among the chief treasures of the public li- brary. Indeed there is a distinct catalogue of them, and the funds left by their illustrious owner form the * the memories of whom throw a lustre upon Caen.'] — Goube, in his Histoire du Duche de Normandie, 1815, 8vo. has devoted upwards of thirty pages to an enumeration of these worthies 5 vol.iii. p. 295. But in Huet'sOrigines de la Ville de Caen; p. 491-652, there will be found much more copious and satisfactory details. CAEN. 327 principal support of the library establishment. Bo- chart's portrait, with those of many other benefactors to the library*, adorns the walls ; suspended above the * with those of many other benefactors to the library.'] — M. Hebert was so obliging as to favour me with a list of these portraits ; which may probably be gratifying to the curious : Bertand, Jean, Eveque de S^ez, ne k Caen, en 1552. BocuART, Samuel, Ministre Protestant, k Caen, n^ k Rouen. Blouet, de Camilly, Vice-Amiral, ne k Rouen. Blouet de Camilly, Arch^vSque de Bourges. BuQUET, Premiere Bibliothecaire de 1' University en 1736. Catragnes, Jacques, Professeur en Medecine, n^k Caen, en 1556. Cavelier, Antoine, imprimeur k Caen. De Colleville, fils de Bochart. Couture, J. Baptiste, Recteur de I'Universit^, Paris, ne k Langrune, ■prhs Caen. Peint en habit de Recteur. Crevel, Professeur en Droit, ne k Ifs, pres Caen, en 1692. Peint en habit de Recteur de VUniv. de Caen. EuDES, Jean, Fondateur de la Congregation des Eudistes, ne en 1601. Fleury, (Le Cardinal de,) Abbe de St. Etienne de Caen. GoNFREY, Professeur en Droit, k Caen. Halley, Antoine, Professeur d'Eloquence k Caen. HuET, Piferre Daniel, n^ k Caen, en 1630. De laLonde, Ing^nieur, ne k Caen, en 1689. De Luynes, Eveque de Bayeux. Mace', Astronome, nek Caen, en 1586. Malherbe, Francois, Poete, ne k Caen, en 1555. Le Maistre de Savigny, Jacques, Recteur de I'Universitd. Moysant, Francois, Professeur et Bibliothecaire de la Ville. Le Neuf de Montenay, Abb6 de Ste. Genevieve, k Paris. Pore'e, Jesuite. Postel, Guillaume, Professeur en Medecine. Pyrrhon, Guillaume, Professeur en Droit. Segrais, de VAcademie Franqaise, ne k Caen. Ls Sens de Mons, de I'Academiede Caen. 328 CAEN. books : affording a very agreeable coup cVoeil. Indeed the principal division of the library, the further end of which commands a pleasant prospect, is worthy of an establishment belonging to the capital of an empire. The kindness of M. Hebert, and of his assistant, render- ed my frequent sojournings therein yet more delectable. But I have promised (before we come to notice a few of the books seriatim) to give you some account of M. MoYSANT, the late principal librarian, and uncle of the present. His portrait is among the pictured orna- ments of the chief room. The nephew has favoured me with a copy or two of the " Notice Historiqiie" upon the uncle — composed by himself, and read at a public sitting of the Academy of Science, Art, and Belles-Lettres at Caen, on the 29th of July, 1814. From this you are to learn that Francis Moysant was born in 1735, at the village of Audrieu, near Caen. Though he was of a large stature, his lungs were feeble, and his constitution delicate. At the age of nineteen, he was appointed professor of grammar and rhetoric in the college of Lisieux. He then went to Paris, and studied under Beau and Batteux ; when, applying himself more particularly to the profession of physic, he returned to Caen, in his thirtieth year, and put on the cap of Doctor of medicine ; but he wanted either nerves or stamina for the successful exercise of his pro- fession. He had cured a patient, after painful and la- borious attention, of a very serious illness ; but his pa- Tannegui le Fevre, n6 ^ Caen, en 1647, p^re deMde. Dacier. Vabignon, Pierre, Math^maticien, n^ h Caen, en 1654. CAEN. 3-29 tient chose to take liberties too soon with his conva- lescent state. He was imprudent : had a relapse ; and was hurried to his grave, Moysant took it seriously to hearty and gave up his business in precipitancy and disgust. In fact, he was of too sanguine and irritable a temperament for the display of that cool, cautious, and patient conduct, which it behoveth all young phy- sicians to adopt, ere they can possibly hope to attain the honours or the wealth of the Baillies and Halfords of the day ! Our Moysant returned to the study of his beloved belles-lettres. At that moment, luckily, the Society of the Jesuits was suppressed ; and he was called by the King, in 1763, to fill the chair of Rhe- toric in one of the finest establishments of that body at Caen. He afterwards successively became per- petual Secretary of the Academy of Sciences, and Vice- President of the Society of Agriculture. He was next dubbed by the University, Dean of the faculty of arts, and was selected to pronounce the public oration upon the marriage of the unfortunate Louis XVI. with Marie Antoinette. He was now a marked and distinguished public character. Tlie situation of Public Librarian was only wanting to render his reputation complete, and that he instantly obtained upon the death of his predecessor. With these occupations, he united that of instructing the English (who were always in the habit of visiting Caen,) in the French language ; and he obtained, in return, from some of his adult pupils, a pretty good notion of the laws and liberties of Old England. The Revolution now came on : when, like many of his respectable brethren, he hailed it at first as the hai^ 330 CAEN. binger of national reformation and prosperity. But he had soon reason to find that he had been deceived. However, in the fervour of the moment, and upon the suppression of the monastic and other pubMc libraries, he received a very wide and unquahfied commission to search all the libraries in the department of Calvados, and to bring home to Caen all the treasures he might discover. He set forth upon this mission with truly public spirited ideas : resolving (says his nephew) to do for Normandy what Dugdale and Dodsworth had done for England — and a Monasticum Neustriacum was the commendable object of his ambition. He pro- mised much, and perhaps did more than he promised. His carious collection (exclusively of the cart-loads of books which were sent to Caen) was shewn to his countrymen ; but the guillotine was now the order of the day — when Moysant ' resolved to visit England, and submit to the English nobility the plan of his work, as that nation always attached importance to the pre- servation of the monuments, or literary materials, of the middle ages." — He knew (continues the nephew) how proud the English were of their descent from the Norman nobles, and it was only to put them in pos- session of the means of preserving the unquestionable proofs of their origin. Moysant accordingly came over with his wife, and they were both quickly declared emigrants ; their return was interdicted ; and our bibliomaniac learnt, with heart-rending regret, that they had resolved upon the sale of the national pro- perty in France. He was therefore to live by his Avits ; having spiritedly decHned all offer of assistance from the English government. In this dilemma he pub- CAEN. 331 lished a work entitled " BihUotheque des Ecrwains Francais, ou choix des rneilleurs morceaux en prose et en vers, extraits de leurs ouvrages" — a collection, which was formed with judgment, and which was attended with complete success. The first edition was in four octavo volumes, in 1800 ; the second, in six volumes 1803 ; a third edition, I think, followed, with a pocket dictionary of the EngUsh and French lan- guages. It was during his stay amongst us that he was deservedly admitted a member of the Society of x\ntiquaries ; but he had returned to France in 1802, before the appearance of the second edition of his BlUiotheque ; and hawk-like, soaring or sailing in suspense between the book-atmospheres of Paris and Caen, he settled within the latter place — and again perched himself (at the united call of his townsmen) upon the chair destined for the Public Librarian ! Up to this moment, or rather till just before the return of Moysant, the public library could not boast of a fine locale.* A portion of the present building, called les Batimens de la Mairie, was accordingly devoted to its reception ; the books having been formally declared " the property of the town" — and not, as before, of the University. It was to give order, method, and freedom of access, to the enormous mass of books, which the dissolution of the monastic libraries had caused to be accumulated at Caen, that Moysant and his colleagues now devoted themselves with an assiduity as heroic as * In Ducarel's time, it was a handsome regular building, tolerably well furnished with books, and was kept open for the public two days in every week, — Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. 70. 332 CAEN. it was imintermitting. But the health of our generahs- simo, which had been impaired during his residence in England, began to give w^ay beneath such a pressure of fatigue and anxiety. Yet it pleased Providence to prolong his life till towards the close of the year 1813 ; when he had the satisfaction of viewing his folios, quartos, octavos, and duodecimos, arranged in regular succession, and fair array — when his work was honestly done — and when future visitors had only to stretch forth their hands and gather the fruit which he had placed within their reach. His death (we are told) was gentle, and like unto sleep. Religion had con- soled him in his latter moments ; and after having reposed upon its efficacy, he waited with perfect composure for the breathing of his last sigh. Let the words of his nephew tell the rest ;* and meanwhile, * " M. Moysant ^vait une conversation douce, Instructive, et en meoie temps amusante par le grand nombre d'anecdotes qu'il racon- tait d'un ton qui lui etait propre, et qui y ajoutait encore un degr6 d'in- t^ret ; sa correspondance etait trfes-etendue, et son extreme complai- sance lui faisfiit fairevolontiers les recherches qui lui etaient demand^es. " Toujours pret a. faire part des connoissances qu'il avait acquises par ses travaux, il pensa toujours que les services qu'il rendait avee plaisir etaient une des obligations de la pla(;e qu'il occupait^ et si M. Barbier, auteurdudictionnaire des ouvrages anonymes^ etM.Henniker, auteur d un ouvrage en Anglais sur les briques armoriees de I'Abbaye St. Etienne de Caen, n'eussent consigne son nom dans leurs ouvrages^ on ignorerait les obligations qu'ils lui ont, et qu'ils se sont plu il faire connaitre ; il a revu et corrige deux editions du Dictionnaire des Grands Hommes qui lui doit plus d'un volume d' augmentation, *' Les diff((irens emplois queM. Moysant a rempliset seautres travaux lui ont assign^ un rang honorable paniii les hommes instruits : sa ia6- moire vivra encore long-temps dans une portion de la society dtran- gfere k sa reputation litt^raire, et c'est a une des plus belles qualites CAEN. 333. let the name of Moysant be mentioned with the bibli- omaniaeal honours which are doubtless its due ! . . From Libraiians revert we to books : to the books in the public library of Caen. The oldest printed vohnne contained in it, and which had been bound with a MS, on the supposition of its being a manuscript •dso is Numeister s impression of Jrethi de Bello adversus Gothos, 1470, foho ; the first book from the press of the printer. 1 undeceived M. Hebert, who had supposed it to be a MS. The lettering is covered with horn, and the book is bound in boards ; " all pro- per." The oldest Lathi Bible they possess, is of the date of 1485 ; but there is preserved one volume of Sweynhevm and Pannartz's impression of De Lyrds Commentary upon the Bible, of the date of 1471-2, which luckily contains the list of books printed by those printers in tlieir memorable supplicatory letter to qui fassent honneur au c^urhumain, c'est au desir de se rendre utile L malheureux qu il doit le souvenir qu ils consen^eront des services ciu'il leur a rendus : ses connoissances litt^raires I'avaient nus debonne Lre en relation avec les personnes les plus distingu^es de la ^ .Ue et de la Province, par leur rang ou leur fortune; plus tard ses ^Ifeves remplissaient les premiers emplois dans les adix^inistrations et la ma- cistrature; il se ser^dt de I'acc^s qu'il avait auprfes d'eux pour leur porter les reclamations de ceux qui g^missaient dans Vmfortune, ou qui avaient des graces a demander j il etait si naturellement compa- Lant, qu'il s'occupa toute sa vie des malheureux, et qud deploya dans tons les instans la plus grande activite pour leur rendre service. " M Movsant s'etait marie ; et une union qui a dure quarante-trois ans, lui avait fait gouter tous les charmes du bonheur domestique , A fut cependant trouble par la mort de son fils unique : le tex^ps seul put affaiblir sa douleur, le temps seul consolera V^pouse qm lu. survit." 334 CAEN. Pope Sixtus IV. The earliest Latin Classic appears to be the Juvenal of 1474, with the Commentary of Cal- derinus, printed at Rome ; unless a dateless impres- sion of Lucan, in the earliest type of Gering-, with the verses placed at a considerable distance from each other, claim chronological precedence. There is also a Valerius Maximus of 1475, by Caesaris and Stol, but without their names. It is a large copy, soiled at the beginning. Of the same date is Gering's impres- sion of the Legenda Sanctorum ; and among the jfif^ ttdtCt^ I almost coveted a very elegant specimen of Jehan du Pre's printing (with a device used by him never before seen by me,) of an edition of La Vie des Peres, in 1494, folio, original binding. It was not however free from the worm. I collected, from the written catalogue, that they had only forty-five works printed in the fifteenth century ; and of these, none were*of first-rate quality. Indeed I know not if the most interesting be not already recorded. Among the MSS., I was much struck with the beau- tiful penmanship of a work, in three folio volumes, of the middle of the xvith century, entitled ; Divertisse- mens touchant le faict de la guerre, extraits des livres de Polyhe, Frontin, Vegece, Cornazzan, Machiavel, ef autres Ions autheurs" It has no illuminations, but the scription is beautiful. A Breviary of the Church Ser- vice of Lisieux, of the xvth century, has some pretty but common illuminations. It is not free from injury. Of more intrinsic worth is a MS. entitled Du Costentin (a district not far from Caen,) with the following prefix in the hand-writing of Moysant. " Ces memoires sont de M. Toustaint de Billy, cure du Mesnil au-parc, qui CAEN. 335 avoit travaille toute sa vie h I'histoire du Cotentin. lis sont rares et m'ont ete accordes par M. Jourdan, No- taire, auquel ils appartenoient. Le p. (P^re) le Long et Mons. Teriet de fontette ne les out pas connii. Moysantz." It is a small folio, in a neat hand- writing-. Another MS., or rather a compound of ms. and printed leaves, of yet considerably more importance, in 3 folio volumes, is entitled Le Mover I des Normans, par Joseph AndrU Guiat de Rouen : on the reverse of the title, we read," Supplement au D.ictionnaire de Moreri pour ce qui concerne la province de Normandie, et ses illustres" A short preface follows ; then an ode " aux Grands Hommes de Normandie." It is executed in the manner of a dictionary, running in alphabetical order. The first volume extends to I, and is illustrated with scraps from newspapers, and a few portraits. It is written pretty fully in double columns. The portrait and hiography of Bouzardf orm an admirable specimen of biographical literary memoirs. The second volume goes to Z. The third volume is entitled "Le* troisSiecles palinodiques, ou Histoire Generate des Palinods de Rouen, Dieppe, S^c. — by the same hand, with an equal quantity of matter. It is right that such labours should be noticed, for the sake of all future Buss-like editors of provincial hterature. There is another similar work, in 2 folio ms. volumes, relating to Coutance. Before we again touch upon printed books, but of a later period, it may be right to inform you that the treasures of this Library suffered materially from the commotions of the Calvinists. Those hot-headed in- terpreters of scripture destroyed every thing in the shape of ornament or elegance attached to book-covers ; 336 CAEN. and piles of volumes, however sacred, or unexceptiona- ble on the score of good morals, were consigned to the fury of the flames. Of the remaining volumes which I saw, take the following very rapid sketch. Of Hours, or Church Services, there is a prodigiously fine copy of an edition printed by Vostre, in 4to., upon paper, with- out date. It is in the original ornamented cover, or binding, with a forest of rough edges to the leaves — and doubtless the finest copy of the kind I ever saw. Compared with this, how inferior in every respect is a cropt copy of Kerver's impression of a similar work^ printed upon vellum ! This latter is indeed a very indifferent book ; but the rough usage it has met with is the sole cause of such inferiority. I was well pleased with a fair, sound copy of the Speculum Stultorimi, in 4to., bl. letter, in hexameter and pentameter verse, without date. Consult De Bure, vol. i. no. 3988. Nor did I examine wfchout interest a rare little volume entitled "Le.v Origines de qiielques Coutumes anciennes, et de plusieursj'a^ons de purler triviales. Avec un vieux Manuscrit en vers, touchant VOrigine des Chevaliers Batinerets ; printed at Caen in 1672, 12mo. : a curious little work. They have a fine (royal) copy of Walton s Polyglot, with an excellent impression of the head; and a large paper copy of Stephens Greek Glossary ; in old vellum binding, with a great number of ms. notes by Bochart. Also a fine large paper Photius of 1654, folio. But among their large papers, few volumes tower with greater magnificence than do the three folios of La Sainte Bible, printed by the Elze^ virs at Amsterdam, in 1669. They are absolutely fine creatures ; of the stateliest dimensions and most attrac-^ CAEN. 337 tive forms. They also pretend that their large paper copy of the first edition of Hiiefs Prceparatio Evan- gelica, in folio, is unique. Probably it is, as the author presented it to the Library himself. The Basil Eusta- thius of 1559, in 3 volumes folio, is as glorious a copy as is Mr. Grenville's of the Roman edition of 1542. It is in its pristine membranaceous attire — the vellum lapping over the fore-edges, in the manner of Mr. Heber's copy of the first Aldine Aristotle, — most com- fortable to behold ! There is a fine large paper copy of Montaigne s Essays, 1635, folio, containing two titles and a portrait of the author. It is bound in red mo- rocco, and considered by M. Hebert a most rare and desirable book. Indeed I was told that one Collector in particular was exceedingly anxious to obtain it. I saw a fine copy of the folio edition of Ronsard, printed in 1584, which is considered rare. There is also a copy of the well known Liher Nanceidos, from Bochart's library, with a few ms. notes of Bochart himself. Here I saw, for the first time, a French metrical ver- sion of the works of Firgil, by Robet^t and Anthony Chevaliers d' Agneaux peres, de J^ire, en Normandie ; published at Paris in 1585, in elegant italic type ; con- sidered rare. The same translators published a version of Horace ; but it is not here. You may remember that I made mention of a certain work (in one of my late letters) called Les Vaudevires d' Olivier Basselin. They preserve here a very choice copy of it, in 4to., large paper ; and of which size only three copies are said to be in existence. The entire title is " Les Vaude- vires, Poesies du xvnie. siecle, par Olivier Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie et des Notes pour V explication 338 CAEN. de quelques anciens Mots: Fire, 1811" 8vo. There are copies upon pink paper, of which this is one — and which was in fact presented to the Library by the Editors. Prefixed to it, is an indifferent drawing, in India ink, representing the old castle of Vire, now nearly demolished, with BasseUn seated at a table along with three of his boosing companions, chaunting his verses " a pleine gorge." This Basselin appears in short to have been the French Drunken Barnaby of his day. " What ! (say you :) " not one single specimen from the library of your favourite Diane de Poictiers! Can this be possible ? " — No more of interrogatory, I beseech you : but listen attentively and gratefully to the intelligence which you are about to receive — and fancy not, if you have any respect for my taste, that I have forgotten my favourite Diane de Poictiers. On looking sharply afeout you, within this library, there will be found a magnificent copy of the Commentaries of Chrysostom upon the Epistles of St. Paul, printed by Stephaniis et Fratres da Sabio, at Ferona, in 1529, in three folio volumes. It is by much and by far the finest Greek work which I ever saw from the Sahii Press. No wonder Colbert jumped with avidity to receive such a copy of it : for, bating that it is " un peu rogue," the condition and colour are quite enchant- ing. And then for the ligature, or binding thereof ! — which either Colbert, or his librarian Baluze, had the good sense and good taste to leave untouched. The first and second volumes are in reddish calf, with the royal arms in the centre, and the half moon (in tarnished silver) beneath: the arabesque ornaments, or surround- CAEN. 339 ing border are in gilt. The edges are gilt, stamped ; flush with the fore edge of the binding. In the centre of the sides of the binding, is a large H, with a fleur de lis at top : the top and bottom borders presenting the usual D and H, united — for which you may take a peep at a certain work ycleped the Bibliographical Decameron, The third volume is in dark blue leather, with the same side ornaments ; and the title of the work, as with the preceding volumes, is lettered in Greek capitals. The H and crown, and monogram, as before ; but the edges of the leaves are, in this volume, stamped at bottom and top with an H, surmounted by a crown. The sides of the binding are also fuller and richer than in the preceding volumes. I well remember, at this moment, that this was the very work, of which, when residing at Worcester, — commencing my career in life as a provincial Counsel — I had the misfortune to lose the third volume : and the loss so affected me, that, to recover it, I left the profession, and became biblio- grapher and divine. But the long sought after, and deeply regretted object, has ever continued to elude my research. The magnificent copy which I have been just describing was given to the Library by P. Le Jeune. It is quite a treasure in its way. Another specimen, if you please, from the library of the said favourite Diana. It is rather of a singular character : consisting of a French version of that once extremely popular work (originally published in the Latin language) called the Cosmography of Sebas- tian Munster. The edition is of the date of 1555, in folio. This copy must have been as splendid as it is yet curious. It contains two portraits of Henry the 340 CAEN. Second (" Henricvs II. Galliarvm Rex invictiss. PP.") and four of Holofernes (" Olofarne") on each side of the binding. In the centre of the sides we recognise the lunar ornaments of Diane de Poictiers ; but on the back, are five portraits of her, in gilt, each within the bands — and, like all the other ornaments, much rubbed. Two of these five heads are facing a different head of Henry. There are also on the sides two pretty medaUions of a winged figure blowing a trumpet, and standing upon a chariot drawn by four horses : there are also small fleur de lis scattered be- tween the ornaments of the sides of the binding. The dateof the forementioned medallion seems to be 1553. The copy is cruelly cropt, and the volume is sufficiently badly printed; which makes it the more surprising that such pains should have been taken with its bibliope- gistic embellishments. On examining it, I could not help thinking ho\? much inferior, in size and condition, was the copy of it which I had seen at Frere's, at Rouen, and in the dark and dank corridore of the younger Manoury at Caen. Yet, upon the whole, the copy, for the sake of its ornaments, is vehemently desirable. And now, my dear friend, you must make your bow with me to M. Hubert, and bid farewell to the PUBLIC LIBRARY at Cacu. Indeed I am fully dis- posed to bid farewell to every thing else in the same town : not however without being conscious that very much, both of what I have, and of what I have not, seen, merits a detail well calculated to please the in- tellectual appetites of travellers. What I have seen, has been, indeed, but summarily, and even superfi- CAEN. 341 cialiy described ; but I have done my best ; and was fearful of exciting ennui, by a more parish register-hke description. Yet what becomes of those grand topics, the religion and law of the country through which one has travelled ? Not a word about altars and tribu- nals ? Very little indeed : and that little, I fear, most jejune and unsatisfactory. For the service performed in places of public worship, I can add nothing to my Rouen details- — except that there is here a brilliant diversity in the Protestant church in the person of M. Martin RoLLiN — " Pasteur, President de I'Eghse Reform^ consistoriale de Caen" — who has just published a " Me- moireHistorique surF Etat Eccldsiastique desProtestans Francois depuis Francois \er. jusqua Louis Xf^III:'' in a pamphlet of some fourscore pages. The task was equally delicate and difficult of execution ; but hav- ing read it, I am free to confess that M. Rollin has done his work very neatly and very cleverly. I went in company with Mrs. and Miss I*** to hear the author preach ; for he is a young man (about thirty) who draws his congregation as much from his talents as a preacher, as from his moral worth as an indivi- dual. It was on the occasion of several young ladies and gentlemen taking the sacrament for the first time. The church is strictly, I believe, according to the Ge- neva persuasion; but there was something so com- fortable, and to me so cheering, in the avowed doc- trine of Protestantism, that I accompanied my friends with alacrity to the spot. Many English were pre- sent ; for M. Rollin is deservedly a favourite with our countrymen. The church, however, was scarcely half filled. The interior is the most aukwardly adapt- VOL. I. X 342 CAEN. ed imaginable to the purposes either of reading or of preaching : for it consists of two aisles at right angles with each other. The desk and pulpit are fixed in the receding angle of their junction; so that the voice flies forth to the right and left immediately as it escapes the preacher. After a very long? ^^^ '^ ^^^Y diously-sung psalm, Mr. Rollin commenced his dis- course. He is an extemporaneous preacher, and is said to strive (very foolishly, in my opinion) to imi- tate Talma in some of his action. I observed (and could not help regretting as I observed) the mode in which, after extending his arms at their entire length in a right line, he would cause his hands to shake and flutter, like the tremulous wing of a bird ere it settles ! But " de gustibus" . . . His voice is sweet and clear, rather than sonorous and impressive ; and he is perhaps, occasionally, too metaphorical in his composition. For the first time I heard the words " Oh Dieu r pronounced with great effect : but the sermon was made up of better things than mere exclamations. M. Rollin was frequently ingenious, logical, and convincing ; and his address to the young commu- nicants, towards the close of his discourse, was im- pressive and efficient in the extreme. The young people were deeply touched by his powerful appeal, and I believe each countenance was suffiised with tears. He guarded them against the dangers and temptations of that world upon which they were about to enter, by setting before them the consolations of the religion which they had professed, in a manner which indicated that he had really their interests and happiness at heart. The females were dressed in white, with long white CAEN. 343 veils ; and not one of the congregation, on quitting the church, passed by them without fixing their eye upon objects of such interest and sensibility. The sermon was followed by a psalm, as drawling in its mode of per- formance as that by which it had been preceded. I forget if it was permitted to any of the congregation to stay behind, to communicate ; but I cannot leave the threshold of the church without expressing how much I was gratified by the promptitude and civility of the verger, in accommodating us with good seats : " si sic semper apud nos" — would be no bad hint to attend to across the Channel. So much for Sabbath worship. A word only about Courts of Justice. '' A smack of the whip" will tingle in my ears through life ; and I shall always attend " Nisi Prius'' exhibitions with more than ordinary curiosity. I strolled one morning to the Place de Justice — which is well situated, in an airy and respectable neighbourhood. I saw two or three barristers, en pleine costume, pretty nearly in the English fashion, walking quickly to and fro with their clients, in the open air, before the hall ; and could not help contrasting the quick eye and un- concerned expression of countenance of the former, with the simple look and yet earnest action of the latter. One of these barristers might have been mis- taken for an Englishman : but I will not say wherefore, for fear a Frenchman should be looking over your shoulder when you read this. I entered the Hall, arid to my astonishment, heard only a low muttering sound. Scarcely fifteen people were present. I approached the bench ; and what, think you, were the intellectual ob- jects upon which my eye alighted ? Three Judges . . 344 CAEN. all fast asleep ! Five barristers, two of whom were nodding : one was literally addressing- the bench . . . and the remaining two were talking to their clients in the most unconcerned manner imaginable. The entire effect, on my mind, was ridiculous in the extreme. With difficulty I refrained from absolute laughter, and quitted the Hall of Justice within five minutes of my entrance. Far be it from me, however, to desig- nate the foregoing as a generally true picture of the administration of Justice at Caen. I am induced to hope and believe that a place, so long celebrated for the study of the law, yet continues occasionally to ex- hibit proofs of that logic and eloquence for which it has been renowned of old. I am willing to conclude that all the judges are not alike somniferous ; and that if the acuteness of our Giffords, and the rhetoric of our Denmans, sometimes instruct and enliven the au- dience, there will be found Judges to argue like Gibbs and to decide like Scott. Farewell. Ere the setting of to-morrow's sun, I shall have gazed upon the famous tapestry at Bayeux. Most cordially yours. 345 LETTER XV. BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE CATHEDRAL. A MYSTERI- OUS INTERVIEW. Bayeux, May 16, 1818. Two of the most gratifpng days of my " voyage" have been spent at this place : and although the Tapes- try has not yet been absolutely "gazed upon/' the Ca- thedral (the most ancient religious place of worship in Normandy) has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with a careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my heart beat with an increased action ; and though this town be even dreary, as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it, which, from associations of ideas, can never fail to aiford a lively interest to a British antiquary. Our old favourite method of travelling, in the cabri- olet of the diligence, brought us here from Caen in about two hours and a half. The country, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionally gently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. It is always so in the vicinity of great towns. Many pretty little churches, with delicate spires, peeped upon us to the right and left during our journey ; but the first view of the Cathedral of Bayeux put all the others out of our recollection. Yet even this first 346 BAYEUX. view produced a " pish !" from both of us : which arose from the corrupt style of architecture of the central tower — the upper part of which is of the time of Francis I. This central tower is not only lower than the two spire-crowned towers at the western extremity, but is, in other respects, a very indifterent piece of building. The end spires are rather lofty than elegant : in truth they are, in respect to form and ornament, about as sorry performances as can be seen. We were con- veyed to the Hotel de Luxembourg, the best inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. " Mine hostess" is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman = — perfectly mistress of the art and craft of innkeep- ing, and seems to have never known sorrow or disap- pointment. Our bed-rooms are excellent, and a silk coverlid and fringed bed-furniture gives to my own apartment the aspect of neatness and even of gaiety. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding year, been occupied in making a fac-simile of the " fa- mous tapestry" for our own Society of Antiquaries, I en- quired if mine hostess had been acquainted with that gentleman : " Monsieur," replied she, " je le connois bien ; c'est un brave homme : il demeura tout pres : aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables !" 1 will not dis- guise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman pleased me " right well" — though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and to me some- what coarse) coin of compliment upon all occasions — and instead of " vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, " une bouteille du vin de Beaune" — "Ah ! 9a," (replied the lively landlady,) " vous le trouverez excellent — Messieurs, il n'y a pas BAYEUX. 347 du vin comine le vin de Beaune." We bespoke our dinner, and strolled towards the cathedral. There is, in fact, no proper approach to this inter- esting edifice. The western end is suffocated *with houses. Here stands the post-office ; and with the most unsuspecting frankness, on the part of the owner, I had permission to examine, with my own hands, within doors, every letter — under the expectation that there were some for myself. Nor was I disappointed. But you must come with me to the cathedral : and of course we must enter together at the western front. There are five porticos : the central one being rather large, and the two, on either side, comparatively small. Formerly, these were covered with sculptured figures and ornaments ; but the Calvinists in the sixteenth, and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth century, have con- trived to render their present aspect mutilated and re- pulsive in the extreme. You should know, however, before you enter, that the tower to the left is coeval with the nave and choir — that is, of the middle of the xiith century ; while the one to the right is of the xvth century. On entering, we were struck with the two large transverse Norman arches which bestride the area, or square, for the bases of the two towers. It is the boldest and finest piece of masonry in the whole building. We were disappointed with the interior. It is plain, solid, and rather divested of ornament. A very large wooden crucifix is placed over the screen of the choir, which has an effect — of its kind : but the monu- ments, and mural ornaments, scarcely deserve mention. The richly ornamented arches, on each side of the nave, springing from massive single pillars, have rather an im- 348 BAYEUX posing effect : above them are Gothic ornaments of a later period, but too thickly and injudiciously applied. The choir is rather fine, than otherwise ; but taken as a whole, I cannot say much for the interior of this ca- thedral. Let us. however, suppose that the dinner is over, and the " vin de Beaune" approved of — and that on our second visit, immediately afterwards, there is both time and inchnation for a leisurely survey. On looking up, upon entering, within the side aisle to the left, you observe, with infinite regret, a dark and filthy green tint indicative of premature decay — arising from the lead of that part of the roof having been stript for the purpose of making bullets during the Revolution — a fate usually attendant upon poor cathedrals during popular insurrections I The extreme length of the in- terior is about 320 English feet, by 76 high, and the latter number of feet in width. The transepts are about 125 feet long, by 36 wide. The western towers, to the very top of the spires, are about 250 English feet in height. The cathedral, in its present form,* (with the exception of such additions as are evidently of a posterior date) owes its erection to the munificent spirit of Philip de Harcourt, bishop of the diocese in the middle of the xiith century. The exact date of the completion of the choir, supposed to be the earlier * in its present forvi."] — Ducarel's faithless and diminutive view of it is only fit for a lady's pocket-book. Nor can I think, without pain, of a copy of this defective print having been introduced into the pages of the Gentleman's Magazine for July 1819 j especially as the 53d and 54th volumes of that work contain some creditable representa- tions of the cathedrals, copied from better models in Ducarel's work. BAYEUX. 349 part, is of the year 1159. But it had been previously twice or thrice rebuilt; by the Normans in 891,* and afterwards, from two successive fires — one in 1 046, and the other in 1 106. As you pace the nave you cannot fail to be struck, on the left, with one of the most magnificent and highly ornamented pulpits in Normandy. It has however suffered from the revolutionary barbarians. One of the most curious objects in the cathedral is the CRYPT ; of which, singularly enough, all knowledge had been long lost till the year 1412. The circumstance of its discovery is told in the following inscription, cut in the Gothic letter, upon a brass plate, and placed just above the southern entrance: €n \m mil qmtxc tm^ ^ tiou^e €iec^ tout ti'5lluril que plupc artoujfe %t0 fiicn.i^ tic \a tcrre, la journce e grace €roba Ton la Basf^e Cgapelle E>ont il n'aboit ete noutJdle <©u il e^t mijsf en Sepulture SDieu iieuille alioir ^on ame en cure* 5llnien. Ducarel seems to have had an aversion, or at least no curiosity, towards crypts ; and accordingly both at Caen and Bayeux he raised his head above the influ- ence of subterraneous, and supposed noxious, vapours : but a good sniff of these cold and darksome regions is quite refreshing to a thorough-bred architectural anti- quary ! It was my good fortune to visit this crypt at a very particular juncture. The day after my arrival at Bayeux, there was a grand ordination. Before I had quitted my bed, I heard the mellow and measured notes of human voices; and starting up, I saw an al- most interminable procession of priests, deacons, &c., walking singly behind each other, in two lines, leaving a considerable space between them. They walked bare- headed, chanting, with a book in their hands, and bent their course towards the cathedral. I dressed quickly ; and dispatching my breakfast with equal promptitude, pursued the same route. On entering the western doors, thrown wide open, I shall never forget the effect produced by the crimson and blue draperies of the Norman women — a great number of whom were clus- tered, in groups, upon the top of the screen, about the BAYEUX 351 huge wooden crucifix ; — witnessing the office of ordi- nation going on below, in the choir. They seemed to be suspended in the air ; and considering the piece of sculpture around which they appeared to gather them- selves — with the elevation of the screen itself — it was a combination of objects upon which the pencil of Nash (the most poetical of our architectural draftsmen) might have been exercised with the happiest possible result. An ordination in a foreign country, and espe- cially one upon such an apparently extensive scale, was, to a professional man, not to be slighted ; and ac- cordingly I determined upon making the most of the spectacle before me. Looking accidentally down my favourite crypt, I observed that some religious cere- mony was going on there. The northern grate, or en- trance, being open, I descended a flight of steps, and quickly became a lodger in this subterraneous abode. The first object that struck me was, the warm glow of daylight which daited upon the broad pink cross of the surplice of an officiating priest : a candle was burning upon the altar, on each side of him : another priest, in a black vesture, officiated as an assistant — and each, in turn, knelt, and bowed, and prayed . . to the admiration of some few half dozen casual yet at- tentive visitors — while the full sonorous chant from the voices of upwaixls of one hundred and fifty priests and deacons, from the choir above, gave a peculiar sort of solemnity to the mysterious gloom below. In spite of my abstraction, I did not fail, however, to notice that the pillars, about half a dozen in number, were of the character of those in the crypt of the Ahhaye aux Dames at Caen; but the capital of the first pillar. 352 BAYEUX. upon entering-, exhibits almost the perfect Composite order ! . . . while the other capitals are, generally, of the grotesque character of the xiith century. The arch above them takes its spring immediately from the abacus of the capital : producing rather a singular effect : there is something like painting in fresco just above the capital : but evidently, I should think, of the latter half of the xvth century. I now ascended ; and by the help of a chair, took a peep at the ceremony through the intercolumniations of the choir : my diffidence, or rather apprehension of re- fusal, having withheld me from striving to gain admit- tance within the body. But my situation was a singularly good one : opposite the altar. I looked, and beheld this vast clerical congregation at times kneeling, or standing, or sitting : partially, or wholly : while the swell of their voices, accompanied by the full intonations of the or- gan, and the yet ftiore penetrating notes of the serpent, seemed to breathe more than earthly solemnity around. Tlie ceremony had now continued full two hours — when, in the midst of the most impressive part of it, and while the young candidates for ordination were prostrate before the high altar — the diapason stop of the organ (as at Dieppe) sending forth the softest notes — the venerable bishop placed the glittering mitre (apparently covered with gold gauze) upon his head, and with a large gilt crosier in his right hand, de- scended, with a measured and majestic step^ from the floor of the altar, and proceeded to the execution of the more mysterious part of his office. The candidates, with closed eyes, and outstretched hands, were touched with the holy oil — and thus became consecrated. On BAYEUX. 353 rising, each received a small piece of bread between the thumb and forefinger, and the middle and third fingers ; their hands being pressed together — and, still with closed eyes retired behind the high altar — where an offi- ciating priest made use of the bread to rub off the holy oil. The bishop is an elderly man, about three score and ten ; he has the usual sallow tint of his countrymen, but his eye, somewhat sunk or retired, beneath black and overhanging eyebrows, is sharp and expressive — and his whole mien has the indication of a well- bred and well-educated gentleman. When he descend- ed with his full robes, crosier, and mitre, from the high altar, methought I saw some of the venerable forms of ourWvKEHAMS and WAVNEFLETEsof old — command- ing the respect, and receiving the homage, of a grate- ful congregation ! You must allow, my dear friend, that if there be few ceremonies more imposing, there are also few more beneficial, than that which I have described ; and that impressions, imbibed in young and honest minds, by such serious offices, are not easily effaced, but are productive in the end of the most salu- tary results. I really do not speak and reason thus because I have partaken of the same ceremony, in a mitigated form, in my own country — or from any vio- lent adherence to what may be called a Laud-like pas sion for hierarchy. On the contrary . . . but you know my sentiments upon this head so fully, that, if you please, as this ceremony is just ended — we will take a stroll together to see what else is worthy of observa- tion within this venerable cathedral. How provoking — or rather how disgusting ! ... At the very moment my mind was deeply occupied by the effects produced 354 BAYEUX. from this magnificent spectacle, I strolled into Our Ladys Chapel, behind the choir, and beheld a sight which converted seriousness into surprise — bordering upon mirth. Above the altar of this remotely situated chapel, stands the image of the Virgin with the in- fant Jesus in her arms. This is the usual chief orna- ment of Our Lady's Chapel. But what drapery for the mother of the sacred child ! — stiff, starch, rectangu- larly-folded white muslin, stuck about with diverse artificial flowers — like unto a shew figure in Brook Green Fair ! This ridiculous and most disgusting cos- tume began more particularly at Caudebec. Why is it persevered in ? Why is it endured ? Tlie French have a quick sensibility, and a lively apprehension of what is beautiful and brilliant in the arts of sculpture and painting . . . but the terms " joli/' " gentil," and " propre," are made use of, like charity, to " cover a multitude of sins," . . or aberrations from true taste. I scarcely stopped a minute in this chapel, but proceeded to a side one, to the right, which yet affords proof of its pristine splendour. It is covered with gold and colours. Two or three supplicants were kneeling before the crucifix, and appeared to be so absorbed in their devotions as to be insensible of every surrounding ob- ject. To them, the particular saint (I have forgotten the name) to whom the little chapel was dedicated, seemed to be dearer and more interesting than the general voice of " praise and thanksgiving" with which the choir of the cathedral resounded. Before we quit the place you must know that fourscore candi- dates were ordained : that there are sixty clergy at- tached to the cathedral ; and that upwards of four hun- BAYEUX. 355 dred thousand souls are under the spiritual cognizance of the Bishop of Bayeux. The treasures of the Ca- thedral were once excessive,* and the episcopal stipend proportionably large : but, of late years, things are sadly changed. The Calvinists in the sixteenth cen- tury, began the work of havoc and destruction ; and the Revolutionists in the eighteenth, as usual, " put the colophon" to these devastations. At present, from a very respectable source of information, I learn that the revenues of the Bishop scarcely exceed 7001 per annum of our own money. The chapter had anciently the privilege of coining money. I cannot take leave of the cathedral without commending in strong terms of ad- miration, the lofty flying buttresses of the exterior of the nave. Tlie perpendicular portions are crowned with a sculptured whole length figure, from which the semi- arch takes its spring ; and are in much more elegant taste than any other part of the building. While view- ing the exterior, you cannot fail to be struck, in the general dearth of monuments, with the following mys- terious inscription -.■f- Quarta dies Pasche fuerat cum Clerus ad hujus Que iacet htc uetule uenimus exequias, Lelitieque diem magis amisisse dolemus Quam centum tales si caderent uetule. * were once excessive.'] — Cette eglise . , . etoit sans contredit une des plus riches de France en vases d'or d' argent, et de pierreries ; en re- liques et en ornemens. Le proc^s-verbal qui avoit ete dresse de toutes ses richesses, en 1476, contient un detail qui va presque k I'infini." Beziferes, Hist. Sommaire,\i. 51. t this mysterious inscription.'] — " Cette inscription, dont les lettres sont anciennes et telles qu'on s'en servoit avant les diphtongues, ne 356 BAYEUX. Hard by the cathedral stood formerly a magnificent EPISCOPAL PALACE. Upon this palace the old writers (and Bezieres, in particular — whose sensible manual of the history of the town, I purchased within two hom-s after my arrival here) dearly loved to expatiate. There is now however nothing- but a good large comfortable family mansion : sufficient for the purposes of such hospitality and entertainment as the episcopal revenues will aff'ord. I have not only seen, but visited, this episcopal residence. In other words, my friend Pierre- Aim6 Lair having promised to take his last adieu of me at Bayeux, as he had business with the Bishop, I met him agreeably to appointment at the palace : but his host, with a strong corps of visitors, having just sate down to dinner — it was only one o'clock — I bade him adieu, with the hope of seeing the Bishop on the morrow — to whom he had indeed mentioned my name. Our faj-ewell was undoubtedly warm and porte ni date ni nom appellatif. Quelques uns pr^tendent qu'elle regarde la Maitresse du Due de Normandie, qui, au lieu d'etre enterr^e dans I'eglise, comme elle I'avoit desir^, fut enclav^e, pour parler ainsi, dans I'epaisseur du mur de la Tour, par ordre du chapitre, Ne seroit- ce point plut6t Isabelle de Douvre, maitresse de Robert Comte de Glocestre, batard de Henri I. Roi d'Angleterre, dont naquit Richard, qui malgr^ le defaut de sa naissance fut nommee I'an ] 133, kl'Evech^ de Bayeux? La date de son Obit au 24 d'Avril insinue, que ce fut le jour de son dec^s. La femme designee dans I'epitaphe mourut ag^e, et aux Fetes de Paques : or Paques en I'annee 1166 tomba au 24- d'Avril. Ces epoques paroissent assez s'accorder entr'elles, et I'in- scription est assur6ment du meme terns." In a note, Bezieres adds, " Le Necrologe delaCath^drale en fait mention en ces termes : 14 die mensis Aprilis, Obitus Isabellis, matris Richardi Episcopi Bajoc. filii Comitis Glocestria:." — Hist. Som. p. 54. BAYEUX. 357 sincere. He had volunteered a thousand acts of kind- ness towards me without any possible motive of self interest ; and as he lifted up his right hand, exclaiming " adieu, pour toujoursi — " I will not dissemble that I was sensibly affected by the touching manner in which it was uttered . . and Pierre Aime Lair shall always claim from me the warmest wishes for his prosperity and happiness. I hurried back through the court-yard — at the risk of losing a limb from the ferocious spring of a tremendous (chained) mastiff — and without returning the salute of the porter, shut the gate violently, and departed. For five minutes, pacing the south side of the cathedral, I was lost in a variety of even painful sensations. How was I to see the Library ? — where could I obtain a glimpse of the Tapestry ? — and now, that Pierre Aime Lair was to be no more seen, (for he told me he should quit the place on that same evening) who was to stand my friend, and smooth my access to the more curious and coveted objects of antiquity ? Thus absorbed in a variety of contending reflec- tions, a tall figure, clad in a loose long great coat, in a very gracious manner approached and addressed me. " Your name. Sir, is D * * * ?" ^^ At your service. Sir, that is my name." " You were yesterday evening at Monsieur Pluquet's, purchasing books?" " I was. Sir." " It seems you are very fond of old books, and especially of those in the French and Latin languages ?" " I am fond of old books generally ; but I now seek more particularly those in your language — and have been delighted with an illuminated, and apparently coeval, MS. of the poetry of your famous Olivier VOL. I. Y 358 BAYEUX. Basselin, which . . ." " You saw it, Sir, at Monsieur Pluquet's. It belonged to a common friend of us both. He thinks it worth . . ." " He asks ten louts iVor for it, and he shall have them with all my heart." " Sir, I know he will never part with it even for that large sum." I smiled, as he pronounced the word " large" — bethinking myself of Atticus, for whose library I had intended it ! " Do me the honour. Sir, of visiting my obscure dwelling, in the country — a short league from hence. My abode is humble : in the midst of an orchard, which my father planted : but I possess a few books, some of them curious, and should like to read double the number I possess." I thanked the stranger for his polite attention and gracious offer, which I accepted readily . . " Tliis evening, Sir, if you please." " With all my heart, this very evening. But tell me. Sir, how can I obtain alight of the Chap- ter Lfbrary, and of the famous Tapestry?" " Speak softly, (resumed the unknown) — for I am watched in this place. You shall see both — but must not say that Monsieur * * * * was your adviser or friend. For the present, farewell. I shall expect you in the evening." We took leave; and I returned hastily to the inn, to tell my adventures to my companion. There is something so charmingly mysterious in this little anecdote, that I would not for the world add a syllable of explanation. Leaving you, therefore, in full possession of it, to turn and twist it as you please, consider me as usual. Yours. 359 LETTER XVI. VISIT NEAR ST. LOUP, M. PLUQUET, APOTHECARY AND BOOK-VENDER. VISIT TO THE BISHOP. THE CHAP- TER LIBRARY. DESCRIPTION OF THE BAYEUX TAPES- TRY, WITH FAC-SIMILES. TRADE AND MANUFACTURES. Well, my good friend ! the stranger has been visited: his library inspected: his services accepted: and his cha- racter partly unfolded. To this I must add, in the joy of my heart, (as indeed I mentioned shghtly in my last) that both the Chapter Library and the famous Tapes- try have been explored and examined in a manner, I trust, worthy of British curiosity. I hardly know what sort of order to adopt in this my second and last epistle from Bayeux ; which will be semi-bibhomania- cal and semi-archseological: and sit down, almost at random, to impart such intelligence as my journal and memory may supply. The last was almost a purely ecclesiastical dispatch : as I generally first take off my cap to the towers and turrets of a cathedral. Now then for the stranger! * * for it would be cruel to prolong the agony of expectation. Mr. Lewis having occupied himself, almost exclusively, with his pencil during the whole morning, I persuaded him to accompany me to St, Loup. After dinner we set out upon our expedition. It had rained in the interim, and every tree was charged with moisture as we passed them . . their 360 BAYEUX. blossoms exhaling- sweets of a yet more pungent fra- grance. The road ran in a straight line from the west front of the cathedral, which, on turning round, as we saw it irradiated by partial glimpses of sunshine, be- tween masses of dark clouds, assumed a very imposing and venerable aspect. I should tell you, however, that the obliging Monsieur # * * * * came himself to the Hotel de Luxembourg, to conduct us to his humble abode : for " humble" it is in every sense of the word. About two-thirds of the way thither, we passed the little church of St. Loup : a perfect Gothic toy of thexiith century — with the prettiest, best-proportioned tower that can be imagined. It has a few slight clus- tered columns at the four angles, but its height and breadth are truly pigmy. The stone is of a whitish grey. We did not enter ; and with difficulty could trace our way to examine the exterior through the high grass of the church yard, yet laid with the heavy rain. What a gem would the pencil of Blore make of this tiny, ancient, interesting edifice ! At length we struck off, down a lane slippery with moisture — when, opening a large swinging gate — " here (exclaimed our guide) — lived and died my father, and here his son hopes to live and die also. Gentlemen, yonder is my hermitage." On looking at it, ... I said to myself if there's peace in the world, A heart that is humble might hope for it here. It was indeed a retirement of the most secluded kind : absolutely surrounded by trees, shrubs, hay-stacks, and corn-stacks — for Monsieur * # * * # hath a fancy for farming as well as for reading. The stair-case. BAYEUX. 361 though constructed of good hard Norman stone, was much worn in the middle from the frequent tread of half a century. It was also fatiguingly steep, but luckily it was short. We followed our guide to the left, where, passing through one boudoir-like apart- ment, strewn with books and papers, and hung with a parcel of mean ornaments called pictures, we en- tered a second — of which portions of the wainscoat were taken away, to shew the books which were de- posited behind. Row after row, and pile upon pile, struck my wondering eye. Anon, a closet was opened — and there again they were stowed, " thick and three- fold." A few small busts, and fractured vases, were meant to grace a table in the centre of the room. Of the books, it is but justice to say that rarity had been sacrificed to utility. There were some excellent, choice, critical Avorks : a good deal of Latin ; some Greek, and a sprinkle of Hebrew — for Monsieur * * * is both a general and a sound scholar. On pointing to Houbiganfs Hebrew Bible, in four folio volumes, 1712, " do you think this copy dear at fourteen francs ?" said he ! — " How, Sir," (replied I, in an exstacy of as- tonishment) — ^you mean to say fourteen louis ?" " Not at all. Sir. I purchased it at the price just men- tioned, nor do I think it too dear at that sum," re- sumed he, in the most unsuspecting manner. I then told him, as a sort of balsamic consolation, that a late friend (I alluded to poor Mr. Ormerod) rejoiced on giving £\2. for a copy by no means superior. " Ah, le bon Dieu ! . . ." was his only observation thereupon. When about to return to the boudoir, through which we had entered, I observed with mingled surprise and 362 BAYEUX. pleasure, the four prettily executed English prints, after the drawings of Lady Spencer, called " New Shoes,''—" Nice Supper,'' &c. Monsieur * * * * was pleased at my stopping to survey them. " Ce sont 1^, Monsieur (observed he), les dames qui me font toujours compagnie :" — nor can you conceive the very soft and gentlemanly manner, accompanied by a voice subdued even to sadness of tone, with which he made this, and almost every observation. I found, indeed, from the whole tenor of his discourse, that he had a mind in no ordinary a state of cultivation : and on ob- serving that a great portion of his library was theolo- gical, I asked him respecting the general subjects upon which he thought and wrote. He caught hold of my left arm, and stooping (for he is much taller than myself, . . . which he easily may be, methinks I hear you add . .) " Sir, said he, I am by profession a clergy- man . . although now I am designated as an ex-Cure. I have lived through the Revolution . . and may have partaken of some of its irregularities, rather, I should hope, than of its atrocities. In the general hue-and- cry for reform, I thought that our church was capable of very great improvement, and I think so still. The part I took was influenced by conscientious motives, rather than by a blind and vehement love of reform ; . . but it has never been forgiven or forgotten. The esta- blished clergy of the place do not associate with me ; but I care not a farthing for that — since I have here (pointing to his books) the very best society in the world. It was from the persuasion of the clergy hav- ing a constantly-fixed eye upon me, that I told you I was watched . . Avhen walking near the precincts of the BAYEUX. 363 cathedral. I had been seeking you during the whole of the office of ordination." In reply to my question about his archceological researches, he said he was then occupied in writing a disquisition upon the Bay- eux Tapestry, in which he should prove that the Abbe de la Rue was wrong in considering it as a perform- ance of the xiith century. " He is your great anti- quarian oracle" — observed I. " He has an over-rated reputation" — replied he — " and besides, he is too hy- pothetical." Monsieur ***** promised to send me a copy of his dissertation, when printed ; and then let our friend N * * * be judge " in the matter of the Bayeux Tapestry." From the open windows of this hermitage, into which the branches absolutely thrust themselves, I essayed, but in vain, to survey the sur- rounding country ; and concluded a visit of nearly two hours, in a manner the most gratifying imaginable to honest feehngs. A melancholy, mysterious air, seemed yet, however, to mark this amiable stranger, which had not been quite cleared up by the account he had given of himself. '^ Be assured (said he, at part- ing) that I will see you again, and that every facility shall be afforded you in the examination of the Bayeux Tapestry. I have an uncle who is an efficient member of the corporation." Never was a solitude more complete, nor were man- ners more mild than those of Monsieur ******: and I returned through the orchard which his father had planted, with sensations that it would be difficult to describe. On my way homeward, I called again upon M. Pluquet, an apothecary by profession, but a 364 BAYEUX. book lover and a book vender* in his heart. The scene was rather singular. Below, was his Pharma- copeia ; above were his bed-room and books ; with a broken would-be antique or two, in the court-yard, and in the passage leading thereto. My first visit had been hasty, and only as a whetter to the second. Yet I contrived to see from a visitor, who was pre- sent, the desirable MS. of the vulgar poetry of Olivier Basselin, of which I made mention to M. * * *. The same stranger was again present. We all quietly left the drugs below for drugs of a different de- scription above — books being called by the ancients, you know, the " Medicine of the Soul." We mounted into the bed- room. Two birds, in comically- wired cages, were suspended from the cieling, and warbling aloud. A sick child, of three years of age, lay in a crib, by the side of the bed of Monsieur and Madame Pluquet — the pillows of which were fnnged in a very fanciful manner. Opposite the side of the bed, were some few half dozen shelves, covered with books of all descriptions. M. Pluquet now opened his bibliographical battery upon us. " Gentlemen (for M. Lewis was with me) you see, in this room, all the treasures in the world I possess : my ^vife — my * He has since established himself at Paris, as a bookseller : and it is scarcely three months since I received a letter from him, in which he told me that he could no longer resist the more powerful impulses of his heart — and that the phials of physic were at length abandoned for the volumes of Verard and of Gourmont. My friend, Mr. Dawson Turner, who knew him at Bayeux, has purchased books of him at Paris. BAYEUX. 365 child — my books — my antiquities." Here the child moaned somewhat piteously, crying out " cher papa, venez ici ;" but the hard-hearted bihomaniacal iEscu- lapius continued — with a parenthetically pronounced " soyez tranquille, mignon." — " Yes^ gentlemen, these are my treasures. I am enthusiastic, even to mad- ness, in the respective pursuits into which the latter branch out ; but my means are slender — and my aver- sion to my bushiess is just about in proportion to my fondness for hoohs. Examine, gentlemen, and try your fortunes." I scarcely needed such a rhetorical incitement : but alas ! the treasures of M. Pluquet were not of a nature quite to make one's fortune. I contrived, with great difficulty, to pick out something of a re- cherche kind ; and expended a napoleon upon some scarce little grammatical tracts, chiefly Greek, printed by Stephen at Paris, and by Hervagius at Basil: among the latter was the Bellum grammaticale of E. Hessus. M. Pluquet wondered at my rejecting the folios, and sticking so closely to the duodecimos ; but had he shewn me a good Verard Romance or a Eustace Froissart, he would have found me as alert in running away with the one as the other. I think he is really the most enthusiastic book-lover I have ever seen : certainly as a Bibliopolist. We concluded a very ani- mated conversation on all sides : rendered more noisy by the notes of the canaries, (who raised their voices as we raised ours) and the squalling of the sick child, who necessarily in turn became more clamorous as papa and mama refused to listen to its cries. M. 366 BAYEUX. Pluquet told me at parting that M. =* * * had requested his uncle to facilitate our researches respecting the Chapter Library, and the Tapestry : that he had him- self spoken to the adjoint of the mayor respecting the former, and that the Abbe Fetit had been solicit- ed to promote my wishes in regard to the latter. Upon the whole, this was one of the most variously and satisfactorily spent days of my '' voyage biblio- graphique." On the morrow, the mysterious and amiable M. * * * was with me betimes. He said he had brought a basket of books, from his hermitage, which he had left at a friend's house, and he entreated me to come and examine them. In the mean while we had had not only a peep at the Tapestry, but Mr. Lems had obtained permission to make a fac-simile of such portion of it as I might deem necessary for any par- ticular object in view. I had been introduced to the mayor, who is chief magistrate for life : a very Csesar in miniature. He received me stiffly, and appeared at first rather a priggish sort of a gentleman ; observ- ing that " my countryman, Mr. Stothard,* had been * Mr. Stothard, Jun. This gentleman has completely finished his labours^ in a manner which reflects equal credit upon the Society of Antiquaries, at whose expense his mission was performed^ and upon himself. His own accoimt of the tapestry may be seen in the xixth volume of the Archseologia. It is brief, perspicuous, and satisfac- tory. His fac-simile is one half the size of the original ; executed with great neatness and fidelity ; but probably the touches are a little too artist-Uke or masterly. This invaluable drawing will be engraved and published by the same Society. BAYEUX. 367 already there for six months, upon the same errand, and what could I want further ?" A short reply served to convince him " that it would be no abuse of an extended indulgence if he would allow another EngHsh artist to make a facsimile of a different de- scription, from a very small portion only." Permis- sion was then granted — the Tapestry unrolled — and down sat, or stood, or stooped, my graphic companion to commence and conclude his labours. Let us leave him awhile, hard at work, and continue the hook-nar- rative. In our way to M. * * * *'s friend, I called with him at the Abbe's, with a view to get a sight of the Chapter Library. He was from home, but would re- turn in an hour. I then attacked the aforesaid basket — not of apples, or of flowers, but — of hoohs : and from a few unimportant articles I selected a loose uncut (mark that !) copy of the Petit Bernard's Ovid's Meta- morphoses*, of which the generous Stranger begged my acceptance. " What a pretty thing will Charles Lewis (thought I to myself) make of this book !" and so saying I shpt it gradually, but in the face of all present, (mark that also!) into my large inner pocket. Meanwhile a young paysanne, of the superior order, arrived with her cher ami ; who carried a gay china cup in one hand, and a slender cane in the other. Droll accompaniment ! She had a very tower- ing cauchoise ; and as it was market-day, was dressed in her best. A fourth gentleman next arrived ; another friend of M. * * * *'s. He had brought a * Consult the Bibliographical Decameron ; vol. 1. p. lbl-8. 368 BAYEUX. ^' bel exemplaire" of a Latin Testament in a silk hand- kerchief, and " would I do him the favour to accept it ?" I was absolutely " penetre." This followed its precursor into the self-same inner pocket. It was bound in blue morocco, and the outside decoration put me in mind of Count Hoym — simply because the arms of that distinguished Bibliomaniac were upon the cover. The little book-assembly broke up, and the Stranger again accompanied me to the Abbe. More than an hour had clasped — but the Abbe was still invisible. The maid smiled as I repeated the question of his being at home, and I thought I saw the head of a man peeping through the blinds of the parlour. You shall quickly know why I am thus particular. " This will never do, said I to my amiable companion : we will go at once to the Bishop." " Say not we,'' he replied. " If you tal^e methere, you will never obtain the object you have in view. Besides, I am an excom- municated man. . ." added he, smiling. He left me, to return with his basket of books under his arm to his beloved hermitage ; promising to see me once again be- fore my departure. I then went boldly towards the epis- copal palace, and wrote a note in pencil to the Bishop at the porter's lodge, mentioning the name of M. Lair, and the object of my visit. The porter observed that they had just sat down to dinner — but would I call at three? It seemed an age to that hour; but at length three o'clock came, and I was punctual to the minute. The recollection of a certain library attached to one of the most venerable and most magnificent of the cathedrals of our own country — and of which the BAYEUX. 369 curators have always shewn a most liberal sense of its management, as well as a just appreciation of its trea- sures — has always inflamed my curiosity to take a peep at Cfjapter %ihtatk0i wherever situated. I was immediately admitted into the premises, and even the large mastiff seemed to know that I was not an un- expected visitor — for he neither growled, nor betrayed any symptoms of uneasiness. In my way to the au- dience chamber I saw the crosier and robes which the Bishop had worn the preceding day, at the ceremony of ordination, lying picturesquely upon the table : a good vignette (thought I to myself) for a history of the cathedral. The audience chamber was rather an elegant one, adorned with Gobeleins tapestry, quite fresh, and tolerably expressive : and while my eyes were fastened upon two figures enacting the parts of an Arcadian shepherd and shepherdess, a servant came in and announced the approach of Monseigneur TEvEQUE. I rose in a trice to meet him, between doubt and apprehension as to the result. The Bishop entered with a sort of body-guard; being surrounded by six or seven canons who had been dining with him, and who peeped at me over his shoulder in a very significant manner. The flush of good cheer was visible in their countenances — but for their Diocesan, I must say that he is yet more interesting upon a familiar view. He wore a close purple dress, but- toned down the middle from top to bottom. A cross hung upon his breast. His countenance had lost nothing of its expression by the absence of the mitre, and he was gracious even to loquacity! I am willing to hope that I was equally prudent and brief in the 370 BAYEUX. specification of the object I had in view. My request was as promptly as it was courteously granted. " You will excuse my attending you in person ; (said the Bishop) but I will instantly send for the Abbe Fetit, who is our librarian ; and who will have nothing to do but to wait upon you, and facilitate your researches." He then dispatched a messenger for the reluctant Librarian, and began a familiar chat respecting " the situation and number of my Cures,'' — the answer to which of course did not require a catalogue raisonne. At the mention of this Abbe Fetit, I pricked up my ears — but I had now only to thank the Bishop for his polite- ness, and to wish him a good day. The Abbe Fetit quickly arrived with two more, who came trotting after him — and enlivened by the jingling music of the library keys, which were dangling from the Abba's fingers, I quickened my steps towards the Chapter Library. '* But I was resolved to catechise this said Abb^ for his incivility in not admitting me into his house after two repeated calls. While therefore we were posting through the transepts of the cathedral, or rather just as we had gained a confined passage, after turning the key upon the north transept door, I began to prepare my string of interrogatories. My first question was perfectly a home thrust : " Je vous dirai (replied he, very readily — just as the key of the Library door had been admitted into the wards of the lock, and looking at me at the same time rather archly, over his right shoulder) je vous dirai pourquoi je ne vous ai pas admis chez moi, pour causer touchant la bibliotheque. — c'etoit parce que j'ai bien apper9u que votre com- BAYEUX. 371 pagnoii n'^toit pas Vhonmie pour nous." The recol- lection of the conversation near the cathedral, the preceding" day — as well as the whole conduct of M * * — immediately came across me . . and I asked no more questions. But the Abbe complaisantly, and even jocosely, added — " comme vous etes bien avec Mon- seigneur L'Eveque, vous verrez tout ce qu'il vous faut. Ah 9a, montons!" This "addition" — together with a certain unaccountable magnetic influence, arising, I make no doubt, from the properties of t\\Q furni- ture above stairs — entirely subdued all irritabilities, and I mounted a good deal quicker than my com- panions. We were no sooner, all four, fairly within the library, than I requested my chief conductor to give me a brief outline of its history. " WiUingly" he replied. " Tliis library, the remains of a magnificent collection, of from 30, to 40,000 volumes, was originally placed in the Chapter-house, hard by. Look through the window to your left, and you will observe the ruins of that building. We have here about 5000 volumes: but the original collection consisted of the united libraries of defunct, and even of living, clergymen — for, during the revolution, the clergy, residing both in town and country, conveyed their libraries to the Chapter-house, as a protection against private pillage. Well ! in that same Chapter-house, the books, thus collected, were piled one upon another, in layers, flat upon the floor — reaching absolutely to the cieling . . . and for ten long years not a creature ventured to introduce a key into the hbrary door. The windows also were rigidly kept shut. At length the Revolutionists wanted lead for 372 BAYEUX. musket balls, and they unroofed the chapter-house with their usual dexterity. Down came the rain upon the poor books, in consequence ; and when M. Moy- sant received the orders of government to examine this library, and to take away as many books as he wanted for the public library at Caen ... he was abso- lutely horror-struck by the obstacles which presented themselves ! From the close confinement of every door and window, for ten years, the rank and fetid odour, which issued therefrom, was intolerable. For a full fort- night every door and window was left open for venti- lation, ere M. Moysant could begin his work of selec- tion. He selected about 5000 volumes only ; but the infuriated Revolutionists, on his departure, wantonly plundered and destroyed a prodigious number of the remainder . . " et enfin (concluded he) vous voyez. Monsieur, ce qu ils nous out laisse." — You will give me credit for havii^ listened to every word of such a tale. The present library, which is on the first floor, is apparently about twenty-five feet square. But what, think you, was the first curiosity which the Abbe Fetit darted upon to shew me ? The Contes de la Fontaine in four folio volumes — as common a work (I had al- most said) as a penny roll. My cicerone was astonish- ed on hearing of its frequent occurrence with us ; — but I hastened to dispense with his services — under the more courteous tournure de phrase of giving him no fur- ther trouble, and began t6 cater for myself. On re- marking that, of the Acta Sanctorum, they had only 20 volumes, — " it is complete nevertheless," was the reply ! A good sample of fitness for the office of Head BAYEUX. 373 Librarian. I had not yet met with a single copy of the Polyglot Bible of Cardinal Ximenes, and of course was not much disappointed at finding it wanting here. Of Le Jays Polyglot there was, as usual, a very desi- rable copy. The Abbe made me observe the Xlllth. volume of the Gallia Christiana,* in boards, remark- ing that " it was of excessive rarity :" but I doubt this. On shewing me the famous volume of Sanctius or San^ ehez de Matrimonio Sacramentario, 1607, foUo, the Abbe observed—" that the author wrote it, standing with his bare feet upon marble." I was well pleased with a vastly pretty illuminated ms. Missal, in a large thick quarto volume, with borders and pictures in good condition; but did not fail to commend right hear- tily the proper bibliomaniacal spirit of M. Fetit in having reserved (or kept concealed) the second volume of Gerings Latin Bible^hemg the first impression of the sacred text in France— when M. Moysant came armed with full powers to carry off what treasures he pleased. No one knows what has become of the first volume, but this second is cruelly imperfect— contain- ing about a dozen blank leaves to supply the place of those which were wanting. It is otherwise a fair copy. There are scarcely any classics, and not three of the xvth century. Upon the whole, although it is almost a matter of conscience, as well as of character, with me, to examine every thing in the shape of a hbrary, and especially of a public one, yet it must be admitted that * the Gallia Christiana,-]-^A complete copy is of excessive rarity in our own country, but not so abroad. It is yet, however, an imperfect work. - VOL. I. ^ 374 BAYEUX. the collection under consideration is hardly worthy of a second visit : and accordingly I took both a first and a final view of it. The Abbe Fetit gained upon me much before I took my leave. To say the truth, he is not only very good-looking, but very civil, and even face- tious iii his manner of shewing the book-lions. Wliy does an unchristian-like spirit of prejudice, in religious matters, turn the milk of human nature into gall ? From the Chapter I went to the College Library. In other words, there is a fine pubUc school, orLyce^^ or college, where a great number of lads and young men are educated " according to art." The building is extensive and well-situated : the play-ground is large and commodious ; and there is a well-cultivated gar- den " tempting with forbidden fruit." Into this gar- den I strolled in search of the President of the College, who was not within doors. I found him in company with some of the masters, and with several young men either playing, or about to play, at skittles. On com- municating the object of my visit, he granted me an immediate passport to tlie library — " mais, Monsieur, (added he) ce n'est rien : il y avoit autrefois quelque chose ; maintenant, ce n'est qu'un amas de livres tr^s communs." I thanked him, and accompanied the librarian to the Library ; who absolutely apologized all the way for the little entertainment I should receive. There was indeed little enough. The room may be about eighteen feet square. Of the books, a great por- tion was in vellum bindings, in wretched condition. Here was Jays Polyglot, and the matrimonial Sane- tius again ! There was a very respectable sprink- ling of Spanish and French Dictionaries ; some iew not BAYEUX. 375 wholly undesirable ^Ww^e^ ,• and the rare Louvain edi tion of Sir Thomas Mores Works, printed in 1566, fo- lio.* I saw too with horror-mingled regret, a frightfally imperfect copy of the Service of Bayeux Cathedral, printed in the Gothic letter, upon vellum. But the great curiosity is a small brass or bronze crucifix, about nine inches high, standing upon the mantle- piece ; very ancient, from the character of the crown, which savours of the latter period of Roman art— and which is the only crown, bereft of thorns, that I ever saw upon the head of our Saviour so represented. The eyes appear to be formed of a bright brown glass. Upon the whole ; as this is not a book, nor a fragment of an old illumination, I will say nothing more about its age. I was scarcely three quarters of an hour in the library ; but was fully sensible of the politeness of my attendant, and of the truth of his prediction, that I should receive little entertainment from an examination of the books, Nowthen, my friend, it is high time that you should be introduced in proper form to the famous Bayeux Tapestry. Let us leave, therefore, paper and print- ing, for linen and needle-work. It is unnecessary to conmiunicate the hundred httle things which oc- curred till Mr. Lewis had finished his laborious task, * the rare Louvain edition of Sir Thomas More's Works, &c.]— There have been bibliographers, and there are yet knowing book-collectors, who covet this edition in preference to the Leipsic impression of Sir T. More's Works of 1 698 5 in folio. But this must proceed from sheer ob- stinacy ; or rather, perhaps, from ignorance that the latter edition con- tains the l[7^opia— whereas in the former it is unaccountably omitted to be reprinted— which it might have been, from various previous editions. 376 BAYEUX. after an application of six or eight hours, for two suc- cessive morning-s. His labours are at an end, and they have been thoroughly successful. I hope to carry with nie, throughout France and Germany, this most marvellous fac-simile — stitch for stitch, colour for co- lour, size for size. Not that I would be understood to under-rate the previous labours of Mr. Stothard, which are in truth equally admirable — only that they are of a different nature, and upon a more extensive scale. Know then, in as few words as possible, that this cele- brated piece of Tapestry represents chiefly the Invasion OF England by William the Conqueror, and the subsequent death of Harold at the battle of Has- tings. It measures about 214 English feet in length, by about nineteen inches in width ; and is supposed to have been worked under the particular superinten- dance and direction of Matilda, the wife of the Con- queror. It was formerly exclusively kept and exhi- bited in the Cathedral ; but it is now justly retained in the Town Hall, and treasured as the most precious relic among the archives of the city. There is indeed every reason to consider it as one of the most valuable historical monuments which France possesses. It has also given rise to a great deal of archaeological discus- sion. Montfaucon, Ducarel, and De La Rue, have come forward successively — but more especially the first and last : and Montfaucon in particular has fa- voured the world with copper-plate representations of the whole. There are in fact several series of plates of portions of this needle-work ; but all those which I have seen are lamentably defective. Montfaucon's plates are generally much too small : and the more enlarged BAYEUX. 377 are too ornamental. It is right, first of all, that you should have an idea how this piece of tapestry is pre- served, or rolled up. You see it here, therefore, pre- cisely as it appears after the person who shews it takes off the cloth with which it is usually covered. 378 BAYEUX. A female unrolls and explains it to you. The first portion of the needle-work, representing the embassy of Harold, from Edward the Confessor to William Duke of Normandy, is comparatively much defaced — that is to say, the stitches are worn away, and little more than the ground, or fine close linen cloth, remains. It is not far from the beginning — and where the colour is fresh, and the stitches are, comparatively, preserved — that you see the Portrait of Harold which accom- panies this letter.* Nothing can be more true to the original. • See the Opposite Plate. In the original, this figure, which is upon horseback, is thus introduced — with the attendant pursuivants and dogs : but great hberties, as a nice eye will readily discern — even upon this reduced scale — have been taken, when compared with the opposite fac-simile. The ensuing is a mere copy of the smaller suite from Montfaucon j also in outhne. NCLOWM ETSVIMILIT^S-'^Oyi^ ERTiADBO FAS SEM21LE of tlie Supposed Tortrait of HAm'OI.B^from the BATEWK TAL^ESTF.'T. BAYEUX. 379 You are to understand that the stitches, if they may be so called, are threads laid side by side — and bound down at intervals by cross stitches, or fastenings — upon rather a fine linen cloth ; and that the parts intended to represent ^e^/i are left untouched by the needle. I obtained a few straggling shreds of the worsted with which it is worked. The colours are generally a faded or bluish green, crimson, and pink. About the last five feet of this extraordinary roll are in a yet more de- cayed and imperfect state than the first portion. But the designer of the subject, whoever he was, had an eye throughout to Roman art — as it appeared in its later stages. The folds of the draperies, and the pro- portions of the figures, are executed with this feeling : witness the following representation of one of the messengers of Wilham. I admit that this is a mere copy of Montfaucon's plate, and that, compared with the original, it is too sharp and brilliant — but you can hence judge pretty S80 BAYEUX. accurately of the general character of the original. You may possibly like to have a further specimen or two : first of the Shipping, and secondly of the Architec- ture. Take them, and admit that they are very curious and very interesting performances of the age. BAYEUX. 381 You will observe that, both at top and at bottom of the principal subject, there is a running allegorical ornament ;* of which I will not incur the presumption to suppose myself a successful interpreter. The constel- lations, and the symbols of agriculture and of rural oc- cupation, form the chief subjects of this running orna- ment. All the inscriptions, as you have them above, are executed in capital letters of about an inch in length ; and upon the whole, whether this extraordinary and in- valuable relic be of the latter end of the xith, or of the beginning or middle of the xiith century-|- seems to me a * a running allegorical ornament,'] — Something similar may be seen round the border of the baptismal vase of St. Louis, in Millin's Anti- quite's Nationales. A part of the border in the Tapestry is a represen- tation of subjects from ^'Esop's Fables. f be of the latter end of the Xlth or of the beginning or middle of the Xllth century] — Of a monument, which has been pronounced by one of our ablest antiquaries to be " The noblest in the world relat- ing TO OUR OLD English History," (See Stukelys Palcpog. Britan. Number XI. 1746, 4to. p. 2-3) it may be expected that some archaeo- logical discussion should be here subjoined. Yet I am free to confess that, after the essays of Messrs. Gurney, Stothard, and Amyott, (and more especially that of the latter gentleman) the matter — as to the period of its execution — may be considered as well nigh, if not wholly, at rest. These essays appear in the XVIIIth and XlXth volumes of the Archaeologia. The Abbe de la Rue contended that this Tapestry was worked in the time of the second Matilda, or theEmpress Maud, which would bring it to the earlier part of the xiith. century. The antiquaries above mentioned contend, with greater probability, that it is a performance of the period which it professes to commemo- rate ; namely, of the defeat of Harold at the battle of Hastings, and consequently of the acquiring of the Crown of England, by conquest, on the part of WiUiam. This latter therefore brings it to the period of about 1066, to 1088 — so that, after all, the diflFerence of opinion is 382 BAYEUX. matter of rather secondary consideration. That it is at once (borrowing a word out of the bibliomaniacal vo- only whether this Tapestry be fifty years older, or younger than the respective advocates contend. Mr. Gurney's Essay is chiefly occupied by the " Inscriptions and Sub- jects." These are faithfully specified : as are the engravings of a few of the subjects to be seen on the banners, Mr. Gurney justly observes that " the prints we have of it, are very insufficient to convey any accurate idea" of the original. He further calls the performance " an apologetical history of the claims of William to the Crown of England, and of the breach of faith and fall of Harold; and that it is a perfect and finished action." Archseologia : vol. xviii. p. 359. — Mr. Charles Stothard has an observation worth extracting. " On coming (says he) to that part of the tapestry where Harold is prisoner in the hands of Guy Earl of Ponthieu, a most singular custom first presents itself in the persons of Duke William, Guy, and their people ; not only are their upper lips shaven, but nearly the whole of their heads, excepting a portion of hair left in front. It is from the striking con- trast which these figures form with the messenger who is crouching before William, that it is^evident he is a Saxon, and probably dis- patched from Harold. It is a curious circumstance in favour of the great antiquity of the Tapestry, that time has, I believe, handed down to us no other representation of this most singular fashion, and it appears to throw new light on a fact, which has perhaps been misunderstood : the report made by Harold's spies, that the Normans were an army of priests, is well known. I should conjecture, from what appears in the tapestry, that their resemblance to priests did not so much arise from the upper lip being shaven, as from the circumstance of the complete tonsure of the back part of the head. The following pas- sage seems to confirm this conjecture, and at the same time to prove the truth of the tapestry : Un des Engles que ot veus, Tos les Normans res et tondus Cuida que tot provoire feussent Et que messes canter peussent. Le Roman du Ron, fol. 232! BAYEUX. 383 cabulary) unique and importantj must be considered as a position to be neither doubted nor denied. It is at once " How (continues Mr. Stothard) are we to reconcile these facts with a conjecture that the tapestry might have been executed in the time of Henry the First, when we are well assured that during the reign of that king the hair ivas worn so long, that it excited the anathemas of the church ?" Archccologia; vol. xix. p. 184, &c. But the most copious, particular, and in my humble judgment the most satisfactory, disquisition upon the date of this singular historical monument, is entitled "A Defence of the early Antiquity of the Bayeux Tapestry," by Thomas Amyott, Esq. immediately following Mr. Sto- thard's communication, in the work just referred to. It is at direct issue with all the hypotheses of the Abbe de la Rue, and in my opinion the re- sults are triumphantly established. Whetherthe Normans or the English worked it, is perfectly a secondary consideration. The chief objections, taken by the Abbe, against its being a production of the xith century, consists in, first, its not being mentioned among the treasures possessed by the Conqueror at his decease : — secondly, that, if the Tapestry were deposited in the church, it must have suffered, if not have been anni- hilated, at the storming of Bayeux and the destruction of the Cathedral by fire in the reign of Henry I., A. D. 1106 : — thirdly, the silence of JVace upon the subject, — who wrote his metrical histories nearly a cen- tury after the Tapestry is supposed to have been executed." The latter is chiefly insisted upon by the learned Abb^ ; who, which ever champion come off victorious in this archoeological warfare, must at any rate receive the best thanks of the antiquary for the methodical and erudite manner in which he has conducted his attacks. At the first blush it cannot fail to strike us that the Abbe de la Rue's positions are a\\ of a negative character; and that, according to the strict rules of logic, it must not be admitted, that because such and such writers have not noticed a circumstance, therefore that circumstance or event cannot have taken place. The first two grounds of objection have, I think, been fairly set aside by Mr. Amyott. As to the third objection, Mr. A. remarks — " But it seems that Wace has not only not quoted the tapestry, but has varied from it in a manner which proves that he had never seen it. The instances given of this variation 384 BAYEUX. an exceedingly curious document of the conjugal attach- ment, and even enthusiastic veneration, of Matilda, are, however, a little unfortunate. The first of them is very unimpor- tant, for the difference merely consists in placing a figure at the stern instead of the prow of a ship, and in giving him a bow^ instead of a trumpet. From an authority quoted by the Abb^ himself, it appears that, with regard to this latter fact, the Tapestry was right, and Wace was wrong : and thus an argument is unintentionally furnished in favour of the superior antiquity of the Tapestry. The second instance of variation, namely^ that relating to Taillefer's sword, maybe easily dismissed ; since, after all, it now appears, from Mr. Stothard's exami- nation that neither Taillefer nor his sword is to be found in tlie Tapestry," &c. But it is chiefly from the names of ^lfgyva and Wa- DARD, inscribed over some of the figures, that I apprehend the conclu- sion in favour of the Tapestry's being nearly a contemporaneous production, may be safely drawn. It is quite clear that these names belong to persons living when the work was in progress, or within the recollection of the workers, and that they were attached to persons of some particular note or celebrity, or rather perhaps of lo(^l importance. An eye-witness, or a con- temporary only would have introduced them. They would not have lived in the memory of a person, whether mechanic or historian, who lived a century after the event. No antiquary has yet fairly appro- priated these names, and more especially the second. It follows therefore that they would not have been introduced had they not been in existence at the time ; and in confirmation of that of Wadakd, it seems that Mr. Hemy Ellis (Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries^ " confirmed Mr. Amyott's conjecture on that subject, by the references with which he furnished him to Domesday -Book, wliere his name occurs in no less than six counties, as holding lands of large extent under Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, the tenant in capite of those properties from the crown. That he was not a guard or centinel, as the Abb^ de la Rue supposes, but that beheld an office of rank in the household of either William or Odo, seems now decided beyond a doubt." Mr. Amyottthus spiritedly concludes : — alluding to the successful comple- tion of Mr. Stothard's copy of the entire original roll. — " Yet if the BAYEUX. 385 and a political record of more weight than may at first sight appear to belong to it. I suspect that, in painting as well as in poetry, a little fiction is mixed up with the truth ; but taking it altogether " none but itself Bayeux Tapestry be not history of the first class, it is perhaps some- thing better. It exhibits general traits, elsewhere sought in vain, of the costume and manners of that age, which, of all others, if we ex- cept the period of the Reformation, ought to be the most interesting to us; — that age, which gave us a new race of monarchs, bringing with them new landholders, new laws, and almost a new language" . . . " Most sincerely therefore do I congratulate the Society on possessing a faithful and elegant copy of this matchless relic, affording at once a testimonial of the taste and liberality of our Council, and of the dili- gence and skill of our artist," Mr. Amyott has subjoined a delightful specimen of his own poetical powers in describing " the Minstrel Taillefer's achievements," in the battle of Hastings, from the old Normanlaysof GAiMARand Wage. I am half tempted to subjoin it ,- but can only find room for the first few verses. The poem is entitled. The Onset of Taillefer. Foremost in the bands of France, Arm'd with hauberk and with lance, And helmet glittering in the air. As if a warrior knight he were, Rush'd forth the Minstrel Taillefer Bonie on his courser swift and strong. He gaily bounded o'er the plain. And raised the heart-inspiring song (Loud echoed by the Avarlike throng) Of Roland and of Charlemagne, Of Oliver, brave peer of old. Untaught to fly, unknown to yield, And many a Knight and Vassal bold. Whose hallowed blood, in crimson flood. Dyed Roncevalles' field- i386 BAYEUX. can be its parallel." I have learnt, even here, of what importance this tapestry-roll was considered in the time of Buonaparte's threatened invasion of our country : and that, either after, or before, displaying it at Paris for two or three months, to awaken the curio- sity and excite the love of conquest among the citi- zens, it was conveyed to one or two sea-jport towns, and exhibited upon the stage as a most important ma- teriel in dramatic effect. Whether, at such a sight, the soldiers shouted — and, drawing their glittering swords. Clashed on their sounding shields the din of war, — confident of a second representation of the same subject, by a second subjugation of our country — is a point which has not been exactly detailed to mc ! But the supposition may not be considered very violent, when I inform you that I was told, by a casual French visitor of the Tapestry, that — " pour cela, si Bonaparte avoit eu le courage, le resultat auroit ete comme autre- fois." Matters however have taken rather a different turn ; and instead of all the notable duchesses and countesses of Paris,* sitting down to display the pro- gress and the prowess of their needles, to commemorate * M. Denon told me^ in one of my visits to him at Paris, that by the commands of Bonaparte, he was charged with the custody of this Tapestry for three months : that it was displayed in due form and cere- mony in the Museum ; and that after having taken a hasty sketch of it, (which he admitted could not be considered as very faithful) he re- turned it to Bayeux— as it was considered to be the peculiar property of that place. BAYEUX. 387 a second conquest of the same country by a second tapestry roll — I would advise them, as a subject for a reverse to the present, to embody, in suitable stitches and tints, the poor solitary intended pillar of TRIUMPH upon the heights near Boulogne, with the rotting gun- boats and deserted corvettes, in picturesque groups around ! . . . and instead of Caesar's memorable three-worded designation of victory, to substitute a motto a Uttle more lengthy, but not quite so pleasant: " VOLUI SED NON POTUI." And now, my dear friend, I think you have had a pretty good share of Bayeux intelligence ; only that I ought not to close my despatches without a word or two relating to habits, manners, trade, and population. This will scarcely occupy a page. The men and women here are thoroughly Norman. Stout bodies, plump countenances, wooden shoes, and the cauchoise — even to exceedingly tall copies of the latter ! The population may run hard upon ten thousand. The chief articles of commerce are butter and lace. Of the former, there are two sorts ; one, delicate and well flavoured, is made during winter and spring ; put up into small pots, and carried from hence in huge paniers, not only to all the immediately adjacent parts of the country, but even to Paris — and is shipped in large quantities for the colo- nies. They have made as much as 120,0001b. weight each season; but Isigny, a neighbouring village, is rather the chief place for its production. The other sort of butter, which is eaten by the common people, and which in fact is made throughout the whole of Lower Normandy, (the very butter, in short, in which the huge alose was floating in the pot of the lively 3a8 BAYEUX. cuisini^re at Duclair*) is also chiefly made at Isigny; but instead of a delicate tint, and a fine flavour, it is very much the contrary : and the mode of making and transporting it accords with its qualities. It is salted, and packed in large pots, and even barrels, for the sake of exportation ; and not less than 50,0001b. weight is made each week. The whole profit arising from butter has been estimated at not less than two millions of francs : add to which, the circulation of specie kept up by the payment of the workmen, and the purchase of salt. As to lace, there are scarcely fewer than three thousand females constantly employed in the manufacture of that article. With respect to agricultural pursuits, in the vicinity of Bayeux, it may be fitting that you should know that lime is a most important article of profit. It is used equally for manure and for building. The softer lime is appropriated to the former, the harder to the latter purpose ; and" both sorts are burnt either with wood or coal. The kilns, where coal is used, are built of a conical form, of which the interior is about five, and the exterior about fourteen, French feet in diameter : the depth is about eighteen feet. Each kiln at a working consumes about two hundred bushels of coal. The other kilns are nearly of the same depth, and always of the same diameter. Without reckoning those who are em- ployed in hewing and drawing the stone, each kiln employs twenty men, and it is filled about one hundred times in the course of the year, yielding about seventy- five tons of lime in the same period. One hundred weight of lime is sold for about one franc and a half: * See page 194. ante. BAYEUX. 389 a treasure, which, if obtainable at the same price in our own country,would make the farmers jump for joy. The mechanics here, at least some of them, are equally civil and ingenious. In a shop, in the high or principal street, I saw an active carpenter, who had lost the fore finger of his right hand, hard at work — alternately whistling and singing— over a pretty piece of ornamental furniture in wood. It was the full face of a female, with closely curled hair over the forehead, surmounted by a wreath of flowers, having side curls, necklace, and platted hair. The whole was carved in beech, and the form and expression of the countenance were equally correct and pleasing. This merry fellow had a man or two under him, but he worked double tides, compared with his dependants. I interrupted him singing a French air, perfectly characteristic of the taste of his country. The title and song were thus: TOUJOURS. ToujouBS, toujours, je te serai fidMej Disait Adolphe k chaque instant du jour j Toujours, toujours je t'aimerai, ma belle, Je veux le dire aux feehos d'alentour ; Je graverai surl'ecorce d'un hetre, Ce doux serment que le dieu des amours, Vient me dieter, en me faisant connattre ; Que men bonheur est de t'aimer toujours. Bis. Toujours, toujours, lui repondit Adfele, Tu regneras dans le fond de mon coeur ; Toujours, toujours, comme une tourterelle, Je promets bien t'aimer avee ardeurj Je pense a. toi quand le soleil se Ifeve, J'y pense encore k la fin de son coursj Dans le sommeil si quelquefois je r6ve, C'est au bonheur de te cherir toujours. 390 BAYEUX. Toujours, toujours, mon adorable AdMe Fera I'objet de mes plus tendres voeux, Toujours, toujours, je garderai loin d'elle Le souvenir de ses traits radieux, Dans ses beaux yeux V^nus a son empire, Sa douce voix commande les amours ; Un baiser d'elle, excitant le dfelire. Me fait jurer de la cherir toujours. The craft he exercised is now lost, as a distinct branch of business, in our own country. He was a carver on wainscoat wood : and if I would give myself " la peine d'entrer," he would shew me all sorts of curiosities. I secured a favourable reception, by purchasing the little ornament upon which he was at work — for a na- poleon : and this ornament, if I can manage well, shall be transported to England as soon as I reach Paris. I followed the nimble mechanic (ci-devant a soldier in Bonaparte's campaigns, from whence he dated the loss' of his finger) throiigh a variety of intricate passages below and up stairs ,• and saw, above, sevei*al excel- lently well finished pieces of furniture, for drawers or clothes-presses, in wainscoat wood : — the outsides of which were carved sometimes with clustered roses, surrounding a pair of fond doves; or with represen- tations of Cupids, sheep, bows and arrows, and all the various emhlemata of the tender passion. They would have reminded you of the old pieces of furniture which you found in your grandfather's mansion, upon taking possession of your estate : — and indeed are of them- selves no despicable ornaments in their way. I was asked from eight to twelve napoleons for one of these pieces of massive and elaborately carved furniture, some six or seven feet in height. BAYEUX. 391 Now fare you well. To have seen the Bayeux Tapes- try is a requital for all my sufferings at sea, and all my tours and detours by land. But, in other respects, this is a town well deserving of greater antiquarian re- search than appears to have been bestowed upon it ; and I cannot help thinking that its ancient ecclesias- tical history is more interesting than is generally ima- gined. In former days the disciphne and influence of its See seem to have been felt and acknowledged through- out nearly the whole of Normandy. Again adieu. In imagination, the spires of Coutances Cathedral begin to peep in the horizon. First, however, for St. Lo. VOL. I. A a 392 LETTER XVII. BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. ST. LO. ADVENTURE AT ST. GILLES. THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES. ENVI- RONS. AQUEDUCT. MARKET-DAY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE CLERGY. I SEND you this despatch close to the veiy Cathe- dral, whose spires, while yet at Bayeiix, were already glimmering in the horizon of my imagination. The journey hither has been in every respect the most beautiful and interesting that we have experienced on this side the Seine. We have seen something like undulating pasture-lands, wooded hills, meandering streams, and well-peopled villages ; and an air of gaiety and of cheerfulness, as well as the charm of picturesque beauty, has accompanied us from one cathedral to the other. We left the H6tel de Liixernhourg, at Bayeux, in a hired cabriolet with a pair of horses, about five in the afternoon, pushing on, at a smart trot, for St. Lo: which latter place we entered by moon-light. It was delightful to witness the gradual decay of day, as we passed through the extended forest of Cerny ; now in fall luxuriance of foliage. The road, as usual, was broad and bold, and at times undulating; flanked by beech, elm, and fir. As I just observed to you, we entered St. Lo by moon-light : the doable towers ST. LO. 395 This man had been preceded, in the situation which he occupied, by a rival vendor, upon horseback, with powders to kill rats. The hitter stood upon the same eminence, wearing a hat, jacket, and trowsers, all white — upon which were painted black rats of every size and description ; and in his harangue to the populace he took care to tell them that the rats, painted upon his dress, were exact portraits of those which had been destroyed by means of his powders ! This, too, on a Sunday morning. But remember Dieppe.* For a wonder, I had risen time enough to tal-?e a turn before breakfast; when I paid my respects to the Cur^, or minister of the church, in order to make enquiries about a Chapter Library. For the first time, since I trod upon Gallic ground, I found a clean, well-dressed, closely shaven, and respectable looking clergyman, of a Sunday morning. Note well, he had resided several years in England as an emigre. Such is the force of habit. He received and treated me with that civility which one gentleman should always shew to another ; and though no library, such as I enquired after, was in exist- ence, I had reason to be well satisfied with my visit. From the residence of the Cur^, (still before breakfast) I sought out the prefect, or chief superintendant, of the Hotel de Ville, in order to examine the public li- brary there. Although he was not at home, an entire stranger, and accidental looker on, told me he would accompany me where the key could be readily pro- cured ; when, equally gratified and surprised at this po- lite offer, I accepted it, and followed " my man" down * See page 20, ante. 396 BxWEUX TO COUTANCES. one street and up another; till, having- obtained the wished-for keys, I was shewn, by a second stranger, the library in question. It is certainly a most unostentatious affair. A room, scarcely seventeen feet square, contains the hbrary at- tached to the Hotel de Ville. Here I saw confusion of every description. Imperfect duplicates ; piled up volumes of obsolete divinity, and neglected canon-law. Two copies of Le Juifs Polyglot Bible had a singular appearance in this straitened collection : but there was nothing exactly to my palate (hungry as I then was) saving an early Boecius, a good copy of Aldus s Quirir- tilian of 1514, and a black letter edition of the Grand Coustinnier de Normandie. The books, however, had suffered dreadfully during the Revolution. I thanked my Cicerone for his obliging attention, and sought the coffee and eggs of the H6tel dii Grand Coq, with the best possible disposition to do them justice. I found Mr. L. ready to receive me — putting a few finishing touches to the characteristic drawing of which I have just made mention. Having dispatched our break- fasts, we proceeded to survey the church — from which the town takes its name. And first for the exterior of this edifice. The attached towers demand atten- tion and admiration. They are so slightly attached as to be almost separated from the body or nave; forming something of that particular character which obtains more decidedly at the cathedral of Coutances. I am not sure whether this portion of the church at St, Lo be not preferable, on the score of regularity and de- licacy, to the similar portion at this latter place. The west front is indeed its chief beauty of exterior attrac- ST. LO. 393 of the great cathedral-like looking church, having a grand and even romantic effect, as we approached the town. An old castle, or rather a mere round- tower relic of one, appeared to the left, upon entering it. We passed the porch, or west end of the church, sometimes descending, at others ascending — midst close streets and overhanging roofs of houses, which cast a deep and solemn shadow, so as to shut out the moon beams for several hundred yards — and pur- suing our winding route, we at length stopped at the door of the principal hotel — aii Grand Cog ! We laughed heartily when we heard its name ; for with the strictest adherence to truth the adjective ought to have been petit ! It was one of the dingiest and smallest at which we had yet stopped ; a degree only superior to that of which such honourable mention was made in the account of Caudebec* However, we were shewn up stairs ; and the best front bed rooms were assigned to us. They were tole- rably large. The beds seemed to be in good order, and the coffee, with which we were quickly served, proved to be excellent. We strolled out, on a reconnoissance, about half-past nine ; but owing to the deep shadows from the moon, arising from the narrowness of the streets, we could make out nothing satisfactory of the locale. The church, however, promised a rich treat on the morrow. As soon as that morrow came, Mr. Lewis sprung with his accustomed alertness from his bed, and betook himself to the occupations of his pencil. It was Sunday morning. The square, before the * See page 206, ante. 394 BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. west front of the church, was the rendezvous both of townsmen and countryfolks. How was I delighted and surprised, when, on his returning- to break- fast, he exhibited a sketch, — of which you have here the finished picture! It is a charlatan vending powder for the effectnai polishing of metals. He has just beaten his drum, which you see by the side of him, in order to collect his audience ; and having got a good assemblage, is full of the virtues of his wares — which are pronounced to be also " equally efficacious for complaints in the stomach !" ST. LO. 397 tion ; and it was once rendered doubly interesting- by a profusion of alto-relievo statues, which disappeared during the commotions of the revolution. You ascend rather a lofty flight of steps to this entrance ; and into which the whole town seemed to be pouring- the full tide of its population. We suffered ourselves to be carried away along with the rest, — and were quickly separated from each other. I almost startled as I entered the nave.* To the left, is a horribly-painted statue of the Virgin, with the child in her arms. The countenance is even as ugly, old, and repulsive, as the colouring is most despicable. I never saw such a daub : and what emotions, con- nected with tenderness of feeling, or ardour of de- votion, can the contemplation of such an object excite ? Surely the parish must have lost its ivits, as well as its taste, to endure such a monstrous exhibi- tion of art. As I advanced towards the choir, I took especial notice of the very singular, and in my opinion very ugly, formation both of the pillars and arches which sustain the roof. These pillars have np capitals, and the arch springs from them in the most abrupt man- ner. The arch itself, is also very short and sharp pointed ; like the tops of lancet windows. This mode obtains pretty generally here ; but it should be noted that, in the right side aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also in the row of pil- lars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way * M. Cotman has a view of this church ; as announced in his Pro- spectus. 398 BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. between the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I sure that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular lines have either meaning- or effect. Whether St. Lo were the Jlrst church upon which the architect, who built both that and the cathedral at Coutances, tried his talents — or whether, indeed, both churches be the effort of the same hand — I cannot pretend to deter- mine ; but, both outwardly and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other. Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is closely blocked up by the sur- rounding houses. On descending the flight of steps by which I had en- tered, I turned to the right, and inquired the price of some plaister images of the Virgin, coloured, about three feet high, and intended as ornaments for churches, I was asked forty firancs for one, which I thought a sufficiently extravagant price for such an article. We prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct us to this place. There are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like those of the xvith century in our own country. But on quitting the town, in the road to Coutances, — after you come to what we called the old castle walls, on passing the outer gate — your eye is struck by rather an extraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built upon a rock. Above, below, all appears like huge scales of iron ; while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and fruitful BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. 399 river Jure* The country immediately around abounds in verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortie from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely cheerful and gratifying. A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon con- vinced us of the uncomfortableness of our conveyance ; which, though roomy, and of rather respectable appear- ance, wanted springs. Add to this, the post-boy gravely • the peaceful and fruitful river Aure.']—l suspect that the " peace- ful" waters of this stream were frequently died with the blood of Hu- gonots and Roman Catholics during the fierce contests between Mont- gomery and Matignon towards the latter half of the sixteenth cen- tury. At that period St. Lo was one of the strongest towns in the Bocage ; and the very pass above described, was the avenue by which the soldiers of the captains just mentioned^ alternately advanced and retreated in their respective attacks upon St. Loj which at length sur- rendered to the victorious army of the latter; the leader of the Catho- lics, " Le nom de Matignon devint alors celfebre dans toute I'Europe. On fecrivit I'histoire de sfcs expeditions au Bocage, et elle fut imprimfee k Paris chez Ruffet. Les Peuples chantaient les louanges dans plusieurs chansons dont je rapporterai quelques couplets : All premier ioicr de Mai par permission divine. Saint ho fut assailli a coups de couleuvrines, Sommequ'on eiit pensi que tout xj fut rask Et cendre consume. Matignon t/ etait et sa Gendarmerie, Rampan, Clerel, aussi Agneaux, Ste-Marie Qui sans cesse disait Colombieres, rends-toi Au grand Charles ton Roi Ou tu perdras la vie. Colombitres repond tout rempli defurie De me rendre en poltron qiCon ne me parte mye. Jamais ne me rendrai .Py veux perdre la vie. Seguin : Histoire Militaire des Bocains ; p. 340-384 ; 1816, l2mo. 400 BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. told us that he could not venture upon putting his horses beyond the speed of Jour miles an hour, (and it was upwards of 12 miles to Coutances) as he had to return to St. Lo the same evening-. Complaint and vexation were equally unavailing : so we gazed around us, and having got into a country of rich verdure and variegated scenery, we endeavoured to forget the occa- sional jolts and inconveniences of our vehicle. We approached a pretty village ; in the centre of which a church stood by the road side. It was the village of St. Gilles; to which saint the church is dedicated. This was too tempting an object to forego the visita- tion of it. Our time was our own ; and both the gargon and the sturdy Norman horses, which he drove so lei- surely along, were also at our command. " Arretez :" and in five seconds we were within the church — a drea- ry, deserted, and unornamented building ; but yet an- cient. Somebroken fragments of sculpture were thrown about in obscure places — but " what is that yonder ?" observed I to my companion. A more interesting mor- ceau — and clearly of the time of Francis I. — I had not seen. It was a dead Christ in the lap of his mother, each without head and feet. Mr. Lewis took a small and hasty sketch of it, and we both agreed that a more interesting and perfect specimen of the sculpture of that time had not been seen by us. It was lodged upon a stone shelf, or projection from the wall, and might be about two feet in height. The more I examined it, the greater was my admira- tion. " Let us see if we cannot obtain it." So saying — (leaving Mr. L. to make further sketches) I quitted the church, and enquired for the residence of Monsieur ST. GILLES. 401 Le Cur6. His house was completely a rural hermitage ; half smothered with the blossoms of trees of various descriptions. The good man had dined, and was di- gesting his potage by a stroll in his garden. He was decently attired ; and looked with more than ordinary surprise at the intrusion of an English stranger. In three minutes I told my tale. Without making the least objection, or even observation, he looked around him, and rephed coolly — " A 9a, mais il faut mettre les sabots, parceque le hameau est un pen crotte a cause de la pluie qui vient de tomber." So the worthy Cure put on his wooden shoes, surmounted with a coarse skin, and we both trotted along together to- wards the church-door, where stood the voiture and the aforesaid " sturdy Norman horses." It was quite a sight for the villagers ; who, by this time, had assembled to the number of fifty at least, around the carriage, " Que veut dire tout ceci "? — was the obser- vation of more than one of the spectators. We ap- proached ; and I was delighted to see the general attention paid to the clergyman by the respectful manner of their salutation. Under such a convoy I considered myself quite safe, and even began to think I might be successful in the object for which I had brought him thither. But " nothing could be done without the sub-mayor. It concerned the parish at large ; and they must be consulted. What is the sum you propose giving for this fragment ?" " Two louis," — replied I, with the utmost decision and promptitude. " A ca, voyons." The sub-mayor was sent for. He was not far off; — in an auberge, which we should call a common pot-house. On his arrival the wor- 402 BAYEUX TO COUTANCES. thy Cur6, raising his voice, addressed the magistrate and the people, — now much increased in number — and stated the object and the wishes of " Monsieur I'Anglois, voyageur antiquaire." I then claimed a mo- ment's attention, and urged the reasonableness of my proposal — to which, as they appeared to listen, I felt considerable gratification . . . inasmuch as my French was endured. The people looked at each other and said nothing. In the midst of this general wonder, Mr. L. surveyed us all with the intelligent eye of an artist, and declared that he had never seen so very singular and novel a scene. His pencil was beginning to be exercised ; when Messieurs Le Cure and Sous-maire consulted apart — and turning round to me, concluded by observ- ing — " vous pouvez bien partir : nous y aviserons ; et vous aurez des nouvelles la-dessus." I requested, if they agreed, that the marble might be sent to Pierre-Aim^ Lair at Caen ; who would receive intelligence from me upon the subject, and would be authorised to pay the two louis as soon as the packet should arrive. We mounted our voiture, apparently in the best possible humour with each other : and bidding a thousand adieus, pushed on for this place. I am very sanguine — from the good-humoured expression of countenance of the Cure and Sub-mayor, after they had chatted apart — that the affair will terminate agreeably to my wishes.* The reflection upon this whimsical adventure, toge- * Not a syllable of intelligence has since reached me upon the sub- ject. The fragment is however worth a contre-projet. COUTANCES. 403 ther with the increasing beauty of the country, kept our attention perfectly occupied — so as almost to forget that the voiture was without springs — till the beautiful cathedral of Coutances caught our notice, upon an elevated ground, to the left. The situation is truly stri- king, gaze from which quarter you please ; but from that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very interesting from the broad route royale lined with birch, hazel, and beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of the cathedral, struck us as singularly picturesque ; while the whole landscape was warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the paysannes and bourgeoises mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark hlues and crimsons were put on upon the occasion ; and nought but peace, tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds — worthy of being copied by the pencil of Claude. We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postillion, flourishing his whip, and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an ascent, drove to the chief inn, the Hotel d'Angleterre, within about one hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not readily forget the rush and swarm of clergymen who were pouring out, from the north door, and covering the street with one ex- tensive black mass. There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics — thus return- ing from vespers to their respective homes ; or rather to the College, or great clerical establishment, hard 404 COUTANCES. by ; which having suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and Buonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very distinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight — to see such a crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with white edging ! The women were all out in the streets ; sitting before their doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The af- ternoon was indeed unusually serene. We ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathe- dral. It was impossible to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed ; and a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direc- tion. We had also a communicative and civil guide, and were resolved to glean every intelligence which could be imparted. As we looked around, we could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the columns rouiid the choir : or rather of the dou- ble aisle between the choir and the wails, as at St. Lo but here yet more distinctly marked. For a wonder, an unpainted Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind the choir ! There is nothing, I think, in the in- terior of this church that merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some beautifully-stained glass windows ; with the arms, however, of certain no- ble families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) oblitera- ted. There is a deep well in the north transept, to sup- ply the town with water in case of fire. The pulpit is large and handsome ; but not so magnificent as that at Bayeux. The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the xiiith century is a period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of this church, COUTANCES 405 for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbe de la Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tan- cred King of Sicily at the end of the xith, or begin- ning of the xiith century. Herewith I transmit you a print* of the exterior of this beautiful church ; which exterior is indeed its chief attraction. Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. Our great object was to mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent pano- rama. Another story, one half the height of the pre- sent erection from the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of Notre Dame at CouTANCEs. As we ascended this central tower, we digressed occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was somewhat terrific ; but we could not help bewaihng the wretched, rotten, green- tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle ; which arose here, as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution) to make hullets — and from the rain's penetrating the interior in consequence. ♦ This print, about 19 inches long, and 14 wide, is executed in a coarse manner. It is dedicated to " Leonor Goujon de Matignon. Eveque de Coutancesj of the date of 1747. To the left, stuck at the top of a roof of a house, the artist has represented himself in the act of taking his view. I bought it for a/mnc. The next principal church St is to the right, as a sort of background. The whole is a very gross deviation from the rules of perspective. But the reader will be doubtless gratified by the artist -like view of M. Cotman, as announced to embellish his Architectural Antiquities of Normandy. 406 COUTANCES. It was a most melancholy sight ; and the same had occurred beneath the roof of the tower whereon we stood, which had been also stript for the like murde- rous purpose. As we continued to ascend, we looked through the apertures to notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows of the western towers : and the higher we mounted, the more beautiful and magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length we reached the summit; and con- centrating ourselves a little, gazed around. The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of the sea, so that to the west and south appeared an immense expanse of ocean. On the oppo- site points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded, undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. Jersey appeared to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea ; and nearly to the south stood out the bold insulated little rock of Granville, defying the eternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be seen in Normandy ; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which I am ac- quainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a warmer glow to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible to particu- larize. All was exquisitely refreshing, and joyous. The heart beats with a fuller pulsation as the eye darts over such an expansive and exhilirating scene ! Spring was now clad in her deepest-coloured ves- ture : and a prospect of a fine summer and an abun- dant harvest infused additional delight into the be- holder. Immediately below, stood the insulated and respectable mansion or Palace of the Bishop ; in the COUTANCES. 407 midst of a formal garden— begirt with yet more for- mally dipt hedges. As the Prelate bore a good char- acter, I took a pleasure in gazing upon the roof which contained an inhabitant capable of administering so much good to the community. In short, I shall always remember the view from the top of the central tower of the cathedral of Coutances !* We quitted such a spot with reluctance ; but time was flying away, and the patience of the cuisinier at the Hotel d'Angleterre had already been put somewhat to the test. In twenty minutes we sat down to our * " I went up to the top of the great center tower, to enjoy one of the finest prospects imaginable. The town of Granville appears in front, and beyond it are the islands of Chausey and Jersey, at the dis- tance of seven leagues to the north, forms a noble object. The country on all sides, towards St. Lo, Avranche, and Carenten, is a garden, rich, cultivated, and shaded with woods." [Sir Nathaniel] WraxalVs Tour, 1775, 8vo. The author, a little before, thus describes the town and neighbourhood — but I must be permitted to question the accuracy of the date of some of the domestic architecture ; as well as of the erec- tion of the cathedral in its present state. — " Coutances stands on a hill, the sides of which descend with prodigious rapidity. Beyond the vale, a range of hills rises like a superb amphitheatre, and invests it on every side. The houses bear all the marks of antiquity in their struc- ture and taste, which is rude in a great degree. Many of them have doubtless stood five or six hundred years 3 and on one, the style of which merits peculiar study, is the date 1007, yet remaining, in very legible characters. On the summit of the hill, in the centre of the town, stands the cathedral. I have spent several hours in the examination of its architecture. There is a grotesque beauty spread over the whole ; and the fantastic ornaments of gothic building are mingled with a won- drous elegance and delicacy in many of its parts. It was begun in 1047, and William the Conqueror, King of England, assisted in person at its solemn consecration some years after." 408 COUTANCES. dinner, in a bed- room, of which the furniture was chiefly of green silk ; but the produce of the kitchen and the skill of the cook made us wholly indifferent to surrounding objects. The females, even in the humblest walks, have generally fine names ; and f^lctorina was that of the fiUe de chambre at the Hotel d'Angle- terre. After dinner we walked upon what may be called the heights of Coutances ; and a more delightful evening's walk I never enjoyed. The women of every description — ladies, housekeepers, and servant maids — were all abroad ; either sitting upon benches, or stand- ing in gossiping groups, or straying in friendly pairs. We were much struck with the comeliness of the women ; a certain freshn-ess of tint, and prevalence of the bon point, reminded us of those of our own country ; and among the latter, I startled, — as I gazed upon a countenance which afforded but too vivid a resemblance to that of my late lamented niece ! Here indeed we almost fancied ourselves in a large mar- ket town in England. Certainly the Norman women are no where more comely and interesting than at Coutances. The immediate environs of this place are beautiful and interesting : visit them in what direction you please. But there is nothing which so immediately strikes you as the remains of an ancient Aqueduct ; gothicised at the hither end, but, with three or four cir- cular arches at the further extremity, where it springs from the opposite banks. Mr. Lewis in his stroll of this morning — it being market-day — visited that par- ticular spot, and from thence took the charming little view, — of the aqueduct in the foreground, and the ca- COUTANCES. 409 thedral, and St in the distance,— of wliich I trans- mit you a finished copy.* Tlie market-people add much to the effect ; while the peculiar play of light and shade cannot fail to strike you as singularly happy. Fine as was yesterday, this day has not been inferior to it. I was of course glad of an opportunity of visiting the market, and of mingling with the country people. The boulevards afforded anopportunity of accomplish- ing both these objects. Corn is a great article of trade ; and they have noble granaries for depositing it Apparently there is a great conflux of people, and much business stirring. I quickly perceived, in the midst of this ever-moving throng, our old friend the vender of rat-destroying powders— busied in the exer- cise of his calling, and covered with his usual vest- ment of white, spotted or painted with black rats. He found plenty of bearers and plenty of purchasers. All was animation and bustle. In the midst of it, a man came forward to the edge of abank— below which a great concourse was assembled. He beat a drum, to announce that a packet boat would sail to Jersey in the course of the afternoon; but the people seemed too. intent upon their occupations and gambols to attend to him. I sat upon a bench and read one of the little chap hooks— Richard sans peur— which I had pur- chased the same morning : Mr. L. being wholly occu- pied, in the mean time, with the view of which I have just made mention. While absorbed in reflections upon the heteroge- neous scene before me — and wishing for some of my dearest friends in England to be also spectators of it— * See THE Opposite Plate, VOL I. B b 410 COUTANCES. the notes of an hand-organ more and more dis- tinctly stole upon my ear. They were soft, and even pleasing notes. On looking round, I observed that the musician preceded a person, who carried aloft a waxen Virgin with the infant Jesus ; and who, under such a sign, exhorted the multitude to approach and buy his book-wares. I trust I was too thorough-bred a Rox- hurgher to remain quiescent upon the bench : and accordingly starting up, and extending two sous, I be- came the fortunate purchaser of a little chap article — of which our friend Bernardo will for ever, I fear, envy me the possession ! The vender of the tome sang through his nose, as the organ warbled the following ^antique j&pititueL EN l'honneur du tres-saint sacrement. Qui est expos^ dans la grande Eglise cathMrale de St. Pierre et St. Paul de Rome, pour implorer la misiricorde de Dieu. Air : Du Theodore Francais. Approchez-vous, Chretiens fidMes, Afin d' entendre reciter : Ecoutez tous avec un grand zfele, Avec ferveur et pi^t^, Le vcEu que nous avons fait, D'aller au grand Saint Jacques ; Grace 'k Dieu nous I'avons accompli. Pour r amour de Jesus Christ. Dieu cr^a le ciel et la terre, Les astres et le firmament ; II fit la brillante lumifere, Ainsi que tous les autres 61^mens, II a tir6 tout du n^ant, Ce qui respire sur la terre : Rendons hommage k la grandeur De notre divin Cr^ateur. COUTANCES. 411 * Tous les jours la malice augmonte, II y a trfes-peu de religion j Lajeunesse est trop petulaiite, Les enfans jurent le saint Nom. Et comment s'^tonneroit-on Si tant tie fleaux nous tourmentent, Et si Ton voit tant de malheurs, C'est Dieu qui punit les pecheurs. Souvent on assiste ti I'Office, C'est comme une manifere d'acquit. Sans penser au saint Sacrifice, Ovi s'est immole Jesus-Christ. On parle avec ses amis De ses affaires temporelles. Sans faire aucune at- tention Aux mystferes de la religion. R^flechissez bien, pferes et mferes, Sur ces morales et veritds : C'est la loi de Dieu notre P6re ; C'est lui qui nous les a dictees : II faut les suivre et les pratiquer, Tant que nous serous sur la terre. N'oublions point qu'aprfes la mort, Nos ames existeront encore. Jesus nous en montre I'exemple Par sa bonte et par sa douceur. MarchonSj allons k son saint Temple, Pour le prier avec fervour. Pour qu'il repande ses bienfaits Sur les precieux biens de la terre, Et qu'il accorde k chaque maison Sa sainte benediction. Portons, Chretiens, sur nous I'imageDe notre Sauveur J^sus-Christj Placons la dans notre menage. Sera en tout lieu notre appui. II met le Chretien k I'abri Du feu du ciel et du tonnerre. Portons les armes du Seigneur, Pour nous preserver de malheur. Que la paix chez nous tbujours rfegne. En bons Chretiens accordons- nous, Et que tous les troubles s'^teignent. Nous gouterons un sort plus doux. Que d'une parfaite union Nous jouissions comme des frferes : Ayons confiance en Jesus Christ, Nous aurons ses dons infinis. Adorons tous, d'un coeur sincere, J^sus-Christ notre Redempteur j Offrons-lui nos voeux, nos pri^res; Reclamons le avec ferveur. Tous les jours prions le Seigneur De nous preserver sur la terre, De mal- heurs et d'accidens. Prions le Sauveur tout-puissant. The day was beginning to wear away fast, and I had not yet accomplished the favourite and indispensable object of visiting the Public Library. I made two unsuccessful attempts ; but the third was fortunate. * It cannot fail to be noticed that the following sentences are in fact rhyming ^^erse, though printed prose-wise. 412 COUTANCES. I had no letter of introduction, and every body was busied in receiving the visits of their country friends. I was much indebted to the polite attention of a stranger : who accompanied me to the house of the pubUc librarian, his friend, and, he not being at home, undertook the office of shewing me the books. The room in which they are contained — wholly detached — and indeed at a considerable distance from the ca- thedral — is about sixty English feet long, low, and rather narrow. It is absolutely crammed with books, in the most shameful state of confusion. I saw, for the first time in Normandy, and with absolute glad- ness of heart, a copy of the Complutensian Poh/glot Bible ; of which the four latter volumes, in vellum binding, were tall and good : the earlier ones, in calf, not so desirable. For the first time too, since treading Norman soil, I saw a tolerably good sprinkle of Italian books. Ascensius's first edition of Bedes Epistles, in small quarto : several old first editions of Greek au- thors : and a copy of the edition of the History of the Chevalier Bayard, with the portrait, precisely in the same style of binding, as that for which, at the sale of the Roxhurghe Library, I was insane enough to give nine guineas. But the collection stands in dread- ful need of weeding. Indeed, this observation may apply to the greater number of public collections throughout Normandy. I thanked my attendant for his patient and truly friendly attention, and took my leave. In my way homewards, I stopped at M. Joubert's, the principal librarian, and " beat about the bush" for bibliographical game. But my pursuit was not crowned COUTANCES. 413 with success. M.J. told me, in reply to black-letter enquiries, that a Monsieur A****, a stout burly man, whom he called " un gros papa"— was in the habit of paying yearly visits from Jersey, for the acquisition of the same black-letter treasures ; and that he swept away every thing in the shape of an ancient and equi- vocal volume in his annual rounds. I learnt pretty nearly the same thing from Manoury at Caen. M. Joubert is a very sensible and respectable man ; and is not only " Seul Imprimeur de Monseigneur VEv^que" (Pierre Dupont-Poursat), but is in fact almost the only bookseller worth consulting in the place. I bought of him a copy of the Llvre d'Eglise ou Nou- veau Paroissien a V usage du Diocese de Coutances, or the common prayer book of the diocese. It is a very thick duodecimo, of 700 double columned pages, print- ed in a clear, new, and extremely legible character, upon paper of sufficiently good texture. It was bound in sheepskin, and I gave only thirty sous for it new. How it can be published at such a price, is beyond my conception. M. Joubert told me that the compositor or workman received 20 francs for setting up 36 pages, and that the paper was 12 francs per ream. In our own country, such prices would be at least doubled., It is impossible not to be struck here with the great number of young ecclesiastics. In short, the estab- lishment now erecting for them, will contain, when completed, (according to report) not fewer than four hundred. It is also impossible not to be struck with the extreme simphcity of their manners and deportment. They converse with apparent familiarity with the very humblest of their flock : and seem, from the highest to 414 COUTANCES. the lowest^ to be cordially received. They are indiffe- rent as to personal appearance : one young man car- ries a bundle, as if of linen for his laundress, along the streets : another carries a round hat in his liand, with a cocked one upon his head : a kitchen utensil is seen in the hand of a third, and a chair, or small table, in that of a fourth. As they pass, they are repeatedly saluted. Till the principal building be finished, many of them are scattered about the town, living quite in the upper stories. In short, it is the profession, rather than the particular candidate, which seems to claim the respect- ful attention of the townsmen. Thus much, or rather thus little, for Coutances. At five this afternoon we start in the cabriolet of the dili- gence for Granville — where we purpose sleeping. I regret that my time tvill only allow of so superficial a survey of this interesting place : of which both the town and the environs would richly repay a week's resi- dence at least . . and I have been here scarcely seventy- two hours ! A well-built country-house in the neigh- bourhood, especially in that direction whither the aque- duct leads, would be a delightful acquisition to the lover both of nature and of the antiquities of art. In- deed, to a Parisian, what residence, throughout Nor- mandy, could be more desirable ? But Fictorhia has announced the speedy approach of the diligence — and having dispatched our maintenon cutlet and our vin de Beaune, we are preparing for our departure. A thousand adieus. 415 LETTER XVIII. JOURNEY TO GRANVILLE. GRANVILLE. VILLE DIEU. ST. SEVER. TOWN AND CASTLE OF VIRE. Vire. Since my last, I have been as much gratified by the charms of nature and of art, as during any one period of my tour. Prepare, therefore, for a melange of intel- ligence ; but such as, I will make bold to predict, cannot fail to afford you considerable gratification. Normandy is doubtless a glorious country. It is fruitful in its soil, picturesque in the disposition of its land and water, and rich in the architectural relics of " the olden time." It is also more than ordinarily in- teresting to us EngUshmen. Here, in the very town whence I transmit this despatch— within two hundred and fifty yards of the hotel of the Cheval Blanc, which just now encloses us within its granite walls— here, I say, Uved and revelled the illustrious family of the De Veres.* Hence WilUam the Conqueror took the famous Aubrey de Vere to be a spectator of his prowess, and a sharer of his spoils, in his decisive sub- jugation of our own country. It is from this place that * The reader will find the fuUest particulars relating to this once- distinguished family, in Halstead's Genealogical Memoirs of Noble Families, &c. : a book, it is true, of extreme scarcity : but in lieu of it let him consult Collins s Noble Families. 416 COUTANCES TO GRANVILLE. the De Veres derive their name. Their once-proud castle yet towers above the rushing rivulet below, which turns a hundred mills in its course : but the warder's horn has long ceased to be heard, and the ramj)arts are levelled with the solid rock with which they were once, as it were, identified. The ruin, how- ever, which remains, will probably speak for itself in the course of this epistle. I recollect that my last concluded with the an- nounce of the arrival of the diligence at Coutances, and of our preparation for departure to Granville, in our route hither. We were well pleased to find a seat in the cabriolet occupied by a very agreeable and intelligent countryman — Lieutenant M. of the royal artillery at Woolwich : with whom we quickly became familiar — aiyl who was, at that moment, in the prosecution of an extensive tour to all the sea port towns of France. We left Coutances with something approaching to reluctance ; so completely anglicised seemed to be the scenery and inhabitants. The evening was beautiful in the extreme; and upon gaining the height of one of the opposite hills, within about half a league of the town, in the high Granville route, we alighted — walked, stopped, and gazed, alternately, upon the lovely landscape around us — the cathedral, in the mean time, becoming of one entire golden tint from the radiance of the setting sun. It was hardly possible to view a more perfect picture of its kind ; and it served as a just counterpart to the more expan- sive scene which we had contemplated, but the pre- ceding evening, from the heights of that same cathe- dral. Mr. Lewis was for exercising his pencil without GRANVILLE. 417 delay ; but an " en avant" from the conducteur roused him from his rapturous abstraction, when we remounted, and descended into a valley ; and ere the succeeding height was gained, a fainter light floated over the dis- tant landscape . . . and every object reminded me of the accuracy of those exquisite lines by Collins — descrip- tive of the approach of evening's . . . gradual, dusky veil. For the first time, we had to do with a drunken con- ducteur. Luckily the road was broad, and in the finest possible condition, and perfectly well known to the horses. Every turning was successfully made ; and the fear of upsetting began to give way to the annoyance experienced from the roaring and shouting of the conducteur. It was almost dark when we reach- ed Granville — i^bout twelve miles from Coutances ; when we learnt that the horses had run six miles before they started with us. As we descended towards the town, the road was absolutely solid rock : and considering what' a house we carried behind us (for so the body of the dili- gence seemed) and the uncertain footing of the horses, in consequence of the rocky surface of the road, we apprehended the most sinister result. Luckily it was moon-light ; when, approaching one of the sorriest looking inns imaginable, whither our conducteur (in spite of the better instructions of the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre at Coutances) had persuaded us to go, we alighted with a thankful heart, and bespoke supper and beds. The landlord's, or landlady's name was Fouche ; whereas we ought to have paid our re- 418 GRANVILLE. spects to Madame Puquet — or some such name — and it is right that, (for the benefit of all travellers, who are unhappy unless they sleep at what is called the " principal inn") the first auberge, to the left, upon entrance into Granville, be studiously avoided. But wherefore ? In a case of necessity, or indeed in any case, let none but the most fastidious eschew the resi- dence of Madame Fouche ; for her manner is civil, her discourse is kind, her farlnage is sweet and good, her beds are clean, and her charges are moderate. In the morning (which was one of the coldest I ever remember for the season of the year) Mr. Lewis rose betimes, and betook himself, as usual, to his pencil : but the time did not admit of any very extensive operation. Granville is fortified on the land side by a deep ravine, which renders an approach from thence almost impracticable. On every other side it is defended by the ocean, into which the town seems to have dropt perpendicularly from the clouds. At high water, Granville cannot be approached, even by transports, nearer than within two-thirds of a league ; and of course at low water it is surrounded by an extent of sharply pointed rock and chalk: impenetrable— terrific — and presenting both certain failure and destruction to the assailants! It is a Gibraltar in miniature. The English sharply cannonaded it a few years since, but it was only a political diversion. No landing was attempted. In the time of the civil wars, and more particularly in those of the League, Granville, how- ever, had its share of misery. It is now a quiet, dull. GRANVILLE TO VIRE. 419 dreary, place ; to be visited only for the sake of the view from thence, looking; towards ^S"^. Malo, and Mont St. Michel ; the latter of which I give up — as an hopeless object of attainment. After breakfast — which was of the very best quality — we joined our fellow traveller Lieutenant M. in visiting- the town. Granville is in fact built upon rock ; and the houses and the only two churches are entirely constructed of granite. The principal church (I think it was the principal) is rather pretty within, as to its construc- tion ; but the palpably gloomy effect given to it by the tint of the granite — the pillars being composed of that substance — renders it disagreeable to the eye. We saw several confessionals ; and in one of them, the office of confession was performing by a priest, who attended to two penitents at the same time ; but whose physiognomy was so repulsively frightful, that we could not help concluding he was listening to a tale which he was by no means prepared to receive. Mr. Lewis took a sketch of him. An hour's examination of the town thoroughly satisfied us. There was no public conveyance to V'lre, whither we intended immediately departing, and so we hired a voiture to be drawn by one sturdy Norman horse. To a question about springs, the conducteur replied that we should find every thing " tres propre." We paid our reckoning, parted with reluctance from our ami- able countryman Lieutenant M. (who was pursuing his journey towards St. Malo) and set our faces to- wards ViRE. The day, for the season of the year, turned out to be gloomy and cold beyond measure : and tne wind (to the east) was directly in our faces. 420 GRANVILLE TO VIRE. Nevertheless the road was one of the finest that we had seen in France, for breadth and general sonndness of condition. It had all the consequence and evident utility of a Roman route ; and as it was perpetually undulating, we had frequently some gratifying glimpses of its broad and bold direction. The surrounding country was of a quietly picturesque but fruitful as- pect ; and had our seats been comfortable, or after the fashion of those in our own country, our sensations had been more agreeable. But in truth, instead of springs, or any thing approximating to " trfes propre," we had to encounter a hard plank, suspended at the extremities, by a piece of leather, to the sides ; and as the road was but too well bottomed, and the convey- ance was open in front to the bitter blast of the east, I can hardly describe (as I shall never forget) the misery of this conveyance. Fortunately our first stage was Fille Dieu. Here we ordered a voiture and post horses : but, the master of the Poste Roy ale, or rather of the inn, shook his head — " Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs ; mais, pour la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Messieurs ; venez voir." We followed, with miserable forebodings — and entering a shed, where stood an old tumble-down- looking phaeton — " la voila. Messieurs, c'estla seule que je possede dans ce moment" — exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its position since the fall of last year's leaf. It had been — within and without — the roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard ; and although literally covered with the evidences of such long and undisturbed pos- session, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as ST. SEVER. 421 we discovered the wished for " ressorts" (or springs) we compromised for the repuisiveness of the exterior, and declared our intention of taking it onward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in re- quisition ; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly away with our slender machine, being fastened on, we absolutely darted forward, at a round ratthng gallop, for St. Sever. Blessings wait upon the memory of that artisan who invented . . . springs ! We began to recover from our past miseries, and to fancy ourselves upon the Bath road, as we pursued our route towards St. Sever. The postiUion had the perfect command of his horses, and we gallopped, or trotted, or ambled, as his fancy — or rather our wishes directed. The approach to our halting-place was rather imposing. What seemed to be a monastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorish architecture; and indeed as we had occa- sional glimpses of it through the trees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in truth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, we made our way for the monastery ; which we found to be in a state rather of dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I en- tered the chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left — a very clean, large paper, and uncut copy of the folio Rouen Missal of 1759. I had no doubt but that a few francs would have made me the possessor of it ; but surely this would have been called little short of an act of mitigated sacrilege ! Every thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance : but the surrounding country 422 GRANVILLE TO VIRE. was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former days of prosperity — such as St. Sever had seen before the Re- volution — there had been gaiety, abundance, and hap- piness. It is now a perfect contrast to its pristine state. On returning- to the '^ Poste Roi/ale" we found two fresh lusty horses to our voiture — but the postillion had sent a boy into the field to catch a third. Where- fore was this? The tarif exacted it. A third horse " r^ciproquement pour Tannee" — parce qu'il faut tra verser une grande inontagne avant qu'on pent arriver a Vire" — was the explanatory reply. It seemed per- fectly ridiculous, as our vehicle was of such slender dimensions and weight. However, we were forced to yield. To scold the post-boy was equally absurd and unavailing ; " parce que le tarif Texigea." But the " montagne" was doubtless a reason for this addi- tional horse : and we began to imagine that something magnificently picturesque might be in store for us. The three horses were put a-breast — and off we started with a phaeton-like velocity ! Certainly no- thing could have a more ridiculous appearance than our pigmy voiture thus conveyed by three animals — strong enough to have drawn the diligence. We were not long in reaching this " huge mountain," which provoked our unqualified laughter — from its insignifi- cant size — and upon the top of which stands the town of Vire. It had been aj'air-da.y ; and groups of men and women, returning from the town, in their blue and crimson dresses, cheered somewhat the general gloom of the day, and lighted up the features of the landscape. The nearer we approached, the more nu- merous and incessant were these groups. VIRE. 423 Vire is a sort of Rouen in miniature — if bustle and population be only considered. In architectural com- paiison, it is miserably feeble and inferior. The houses are generally built of granite, and look extremely sombre in consequence. The old castle is yet inter- esting and commanding. But of this presently. We drove to the " Cheval Blanc,''' and bespoke, as usual, a late dinner and beds. Our first visit was to the castle ; but it is right that you should know, before hand, that the town of Vire, which contains a population of about ten thousand souls, stands upon a commanding emi- nencC; in the midst of a very beautiful and picturesque country called the Bocage. This country was, in former times, as fruitful in civil wars, horrors, and de- vastations, as the more celebrated Bocage of the southern part of France, during the late Revolution. In short, the Bocage of Normandy was the scene of blood- shed during the Calvinistic or Hugonot persecution. It was in the vicinity of this town, in the parts through which we have travelled — from Caen hitherwards — that the hills and the dales rang with the feats of arms displayed in the alternate discomfiture and sue- cess of CoLiGNY, CoNDE, MONTGOMERY, and Ma- TIGNON.* * An epitomised account of these civil commotions will be found in the Histoire Militaire des Bocains, par M. Richard Seguixj d. Vire, 1816: 12mo. of which work, and of its author;, some notice will be taken in the following pages. MeanwhilCj consult page 399, ante. Among the MSS. in the Royal Library at Paris, there are three folios (to be distinctly noticed in the second volume of this work) containing various excerpts relating to the town of Vire, In the 424 VIRE. But for the castle. It is situated at the extremity of an open space, terminated by a portion of the bou- levards ; having-, in the foreground, the pubHc library to the left, and a sort of municipal hall to the right : neither of them objects of much architectural conse- quence. Still nearer in the foreground, is a fountain ; whither men, women, and children — but chiefly the second class, in the character of hlanchisseuses — regularly resort for water; as its bason is usually overflowing. It was in a lucky moment that Mr. Lewis paid a visit to this spot ; which his ready pencil transmitted to his sketch-book in a manner too beautiful and faithful not to be followed up by a finish- ed design This desig-n is enclosed for your . . . un- qualified admiration ! * But much as you love art, and much as you vfill be g-ratified by such a delightful specimen of it, I am persuaded you would be inclined third of these ms. volumes, (numbered 1029 or 1329,) under the title of " Amies qui sont a VEglise paroissiale de Fire. Diocese de Bayeux" there is an account of the town being taken by the Comte de Mont- gomery, in the year 1568, about five o'clock in the morning. The assailants are called an army " de la pretendue nouvelle religion, les quelez auroient pille et rauag^ I'Eglise, rompu, froisse, casse et ruin^ les vitres, greillez, huis et fenetres, chaires, bancs, siegez, cofFrez, sa- craireZj autelz, imagez," &c. This account is followed by two large, and not unskilfully executed drawings, of two families, kneeling, which were in the stained glass windows of the principal church. * See the Opposite Plate. The woman with a bucket before her, turning round to the left, stood on purpose to be drawn j and seemed vastly pleased by the compliment which she considered to be thus paid her. The castle shews the reverse of that side which appears in the opposite vignette. VlllE. 425 to scold me if I do not give you a nearer introduction to the old castle. Accordingly you have here a most exquisite Uttle morceau of its kind. It is taken from hehind the portion which you observe in the annexed representation ; and was minutely finished, upon the spot. Frequently, in the act of executing it, several young- men, apparently students at the College, would sur- round Mr. L. with exclamations and compliments upon the minute delicacy and apparent difficulty of the un- dertaking As to the antiquity of the castle, I should apprehend it to be of the twelfth century. Probably of a more ancient date ; though this is pretty well. 426 VIRE. Its foundation is a solid rock. Indeed the whole keep is of the same kind of stone. The " Cheval Blanc' — the name of the hotel at which we reside — should be rather called the " Cheval Noir ;" for a more dark, dingy, and even dirty residence, for a traveller of any nasal or ocular sensibility, can be rarely visited. Our bed room, where we drink tea, is hung with tapestry; which, for aught I know to the contrary, may repre- sent the daring exploits of Montgomery and Matig- NON :* but which is so begrimed with filth that there is no decyphering the subjects worked upon it. On leav- ing the inn — and making your way to the top of the street — you turn to the left ; but on looking down, again to the left, you observe, below you, the great high road leading to Caen, which has a noble appearance. Indeed, the manner in which this part of Normandy is intersected with the " routes royales' cannot fail to strike a stranger ; especially as these roads run over hill and dale, amidst meadows, and orchards, equally abundant in their respective harvests. The immediate vicinity of the town is remarkable as well for pic- turesque objects of scenery as for a high state of culti- vation ; and a stroll upon the heights, in whatever part visited, will not fail to repay you for the certain disappointment to be experienced within the streets of the town. Portions of the scenery, from these heights, are not unlike those in Derbyshire, about Matlock. There is plenty of rock, of shrubs, and of fern ; while another Derweyit, less turbid and muddy, meanders below. Thus much for a general, but hasty * See page 399, ante. VIRE. 427 sketch the town of Vire. My next shall give you some detail of the interior of a few of the houses, of which I may be said to have hitherto only contemplated the roofs. VOL. I. CO 428 LETTER XIX. BIBLIOGRAPHY. MONSIEUR ADAM. MONSIEUR DE LA- RENAUDIERE. OLIVIER BASSELIN. M. SEGUIN. THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. It is a sad rainy day ; and having no temptation to stir abroad, I have shut myself up by the side of a huge wood fire — (surrounded by the dingy tapestry, of which my last letter did not make very honourable men- tion) — in a thoroughly communicative mood, to make you acquainted with all that has passed since my pre- vious despatch. 25ooft^ and the ^Jlbltomama be the chief " burden of my present song I" You may re- member, in my account of the public library at Caen,* that some mention was made of a certain Olivier Basselin — whom I designated as the drunken Bar- NABY of Normandy ? Well, my friend — I have been at length made happy, and comforted in the extreme, by the possession of a copy of the Vaudevires of that said Olivier Basselin — and from the hands, too, of one of his principal editors ! . . Monsieur Lanon de la Re- naudiere, Avocat, et Maire, de Tallevende-le-Petit. This copy I intend (as indeed I told the donor) for the beloved library at Althorp. But let me tell my tale my own way. Hard by the hotel of the Cheval Blanc, (the best, • See page 337, ante. VIRE. 429 bad as it is — and indeed the only one in the town) lives a printer of the name of Adam. He is the prin- cipal, and the most respectable of his brethren in the same craft. After discoursing upon sundry desultory topics — and particularly examining- the books of Edu- cation, among which I was both surprised and pleased to find the Distichs of Muretus^ — I expressed my re- * " Les Distiques de Muret, traduits en vers Frangais, par Aug. A. Se vend "k Vire, chez Adam, imprimeur-lib. An. I8O9. The reader may not be displeased to have a specimen of the manner of rendering these distichs into French verse : 1. Dum tenor es, Murete, avidis hsec anribus hauri : Nee memori mod6 conde animo, sed et exprime factis. 2. Inprimis venerare Deum ; venerare parentes : • Et quos ipsa loco tib^i dat natnra parentum. 3. Mentiri noli. Nunqu^m mendacia prosiint. Si quid peccaris, venia est tibi prompta fatenti. Disce libeas. Quid dulcius est qukm discere multa ! Discentem comitantur opes, comitantur honores. 6. Si quis te objurget, malii, ciim quid feceris, illi Gratiam habe, et ne iteriim queat objurgare cavet. 6. Ne temer^ hunc credas tibi qui blanditur amicum. Peccantem puermn quisquis non corrigit, odit. 1. Jeune encore, 6 mon Fils ! pour Hre homme de Men, Ecoute, et dans ton coeur grave cet entretien. 430 VIRE. gret at having travelled through so many towns of Normandy without meeting with one single copy of the Faudevlres of Olivier Basselin for sale. " It is not very surprising, Sir, since it is a privately printed book, and was never intended for sale. The impres- sion too is very limited. You know, Sir, that the book was published here — and — " I started backwards, just one step and " no more." " Then I begin to be confident about obtaining it" — replied I. " Gently, Sir ; — " resumed Monsieur Adam — " it is not to be bought, even here. But do you know no one . . . ?" " Not a creature." " Well, Sir, take courage. You are an Enghshman ; and one of its principal editors — a very gallant Bibliomane — who is a great collector and lover of the literature of your country — (here I picked up courage* and gaiety of heart) lives in this 2. Sers, honore le Dieu qui crka tous les itres ; Soisjils respectueux, sois docile a tes maitres. 3. Grains de mentir : toujours c'est en vain que Pon ment ; En avouant ses torts, on est presqvH innocent. 4. Qxfil est beau d'etre instruit ! Aime, acquiers la science ; Assez d'honneurs, de liens seront ta recompense. 5. lyun reproche ohligeant, au lieu d'etre confus. Rends gr6.ce a I'amitii, tnais n'en mirite plus. Grains la louange : il est I'ennemi de Venfance Celui qui pour ses torts rHa que de V indulgence. VIRE. 431 town. He is President of the Tribunal. Go to him." Seeing me hesitate, in consequence of not having a letter of introduction — " Ce n'est rien (said he) allez tout-droit. II aime vos compatriotes ; et soyez persuade d"un accueil le plus favorable." Methought Monsieur Adam spake more eloquently than I had yet heard a Norman speak. In two seconds I quitted his shop, (promising to re- turn witli an account of my reception) and five mi- nutes brought me into the presence of Monsieur Lanon de la Renaudiere, President du Tribunal, &c. My name is a^nost unfortunate one (as I have experienced more than once) for Gallic ears. It is made caco- phony itself. Monsieur Le President repeated it — and I repeated it — " Enfin, donnez vous la peine de I'ecrire" — said the Bibliomane, very politely. I had no sooner got through the half of the final /?, than he shouted aloud, — " Est-ce done vous qui etes . . ?! naming certain bibliographical performances which need not be here mentioned. I never heard so rapid an utterance. On bowing, and replying in the affir- mative — it is not possible for me to convey to you a notion of the warmth, cordiality, and joyousness of heart, that marked the reception which this gentle- man instantly and in consequence gave me: and I will frankly own that I was as much " abashed" as ever our ancient friend Caxton had been — in the pre- sence of his patroness the Duchess of Burgundy. I fol- lowed my new bibliomaniacal acquaintance rapidly up stairs ; and witnessed, with extreme pleasure, a few bundles of books (some of them English) lying upon the window seats of the first landing-place : much after 432 VIRE the fashion followed in a certain long, rambling, and antique residence not quite three quarters of a mile from the towers of Westminster Abbey. We gained the first floor ; when mine host turned the keys of the doors of two contiguous rooms, and exclaimed, " Voila ma Bibliotheque ! Theair of con- scious triumph with which these words were uttered^ delighted me infinitely ; but my delight was much in- creased on a leisurely survey of one of the prettiest, most useful, and commendable collections of books, chiefly in the department of the Belles-Lettres, which I had ever witnessed. Monsieur La Renaudiere has a library of about 9000 volumes, of which eight hundred are English. But the owner is especially fond of poe- tical archaeology ; in other words, of collecting eveiy work which displays the progress of French and Eng- lish poetry in the middle and immediately following ages ; and talks of Trouveurs and Troubadours with an enthusiasm approaching toextacy. Meanwhile he points his finger to our Warton, Ellis, Ritson, and Southey ; tells you how dearly he loves them ; but yet leads you to conclude that he rather prefers Le Grand, Ginguene Sismondi, and Renouard* Of the venerable living oracle in these matters, the Abb6 de la Rue, he said he considered him as *^ un pen trop systematique." In short, M. La Renaudiere has almost a complete critical collection, in our tongue, upon the subject of old poe- try ; and was most anxious and inquisitive about the present state of cultivation of that branch of literature * A member of the Institute , and not the bibliographical bookseller of the same name. VIRE. 433 ill England : adding, that he himself meditated a work upon the French poetry of the xiith and xiiith cen- turies. He said he thought his library might be worth about 25,000 francs : nor did I consider such a valu- ation overcharged. He talks rapidly, earnestly, and incessantly ; but he talks well : and spoke of the renown of a certain library in St. James s Place, in a manner which could not fail to quicken the pulse and warm the blood of its historian. We concluded an interview of nearly two hours by his compliance with my wishes to dine with me on the following day : al- though he was quite urgent in bargaining for the pre- vious measure of my tasting his pSiage and vol au vent. But the shortness and constant occupation of my time would not allow me to accede to it. M. La Renaudiere then went to a cabinet-like cupboard, drew forth an uncut copy, stitched in blue spotted paper, of his beloved Vaiidevires by Olivier Basse- lin;* and presenting it to me, added •' Conservez * beloved Vaudevires by Olivier Basselin.] — The present seems to be the proper place to give the reader some account of this once fa- mous Bacchanalian poet. It is not often that France rests her preten sions to poetical celebrity upon such claims. Love^ romantic adven tureS;, gaiety of heart and of disposition form the chief materials of hei minor poems : but we have here before us, in the person and produc- tions of Olivier Basselin, a rival to Anacreon of old ; to Our own Richard Braithwait, Vincent Bourne, and Thomas Moore. As this volume is perhaps the only one which has travelled into England, the reader may be prepared to receive an account of its contents with the greater readiness and satisfaction. First, then, of the life and occupations of Olivier Basselin ; which, as Goujet has entirely passed over all notice of him, we can gather only from the editors of the present edition of his works. Basselin appears to have been a 434 VIRE. le, pour I'amour de moi." You may be assured that I received such a present in the most gracious man- ner I was capable of — but instantly and honestly Firois 3 in other words, an inhabitant of the town of Vire. But he liad a strange propensity to rusticating, and preferred the immediate vicinity of Vire — its quiet little valleys, running streams, and rocky recesses — to a more open and more distant residence. In such places, therefore, he carried with him his flasks of cider and his flagons of wine. Thither he resorted with his " boon and merry companions," and there he poured forth his ai'dent and unpremeditated strains. These " strains" all savoured of the jovial propensities of their author : it being very rarely that tenderness of sentiment, whether connected with friendship or love, is admitted into his compositions. He was the thorough-bred Ajiacreon of the close of the fifteenth century. The town of Vire, as the reader may have already had intimation, is the chief town of that d^artment of Normandy called the Bocage : and in this department few places have been, of old, more celebrated than the Taux de lire ; on account of the number of manufactories which have existed there from time immemorial. It derives its name from two principal valleys, in the form of a T, of which the base (if it may be so called — "jambage") rests upon the Place du Chateau de Vire. It is sufficiently contiguous to the town to be considered among the fauxbourgs. The rivers Fire and Virhie, which unite at the bridge of Vaux, run somewhat rapidly through the valleys. These rivers are flanked by manufactories of paper and cloth, which, from the xvth century, have been distinguished for their prosperous condition. In- deed, Bassemn himself was a sort of cloth manufacturer. In this valley lie passed his life in fulling his cloths, and " in composing those gay and delightful songs which are contained in the volume under consideration." Discours Prtiiminaire, p. 17, &c. Olivier Basselin is the parent of the title Vaudevire — which has since been coriTipted into Vaudeville. From the observation at page 16, Basselin appears to have been also the Father of Bacchanalian Po- etry in France. He frequented public festivals: and was a welcome guest at the tables of the rich — where the \'audevire was in such re- VIRE. 435 added — " permettez qu'il soit depos^ dans la bibli- otheqiie de Milord S . . . ? " C'est la meme chose" — quest, that it is supposed to have superseded the " Conte, or Fabliau, or the Chanson d' Amour."* p. xviij : Sur ce point-lh, soyez tranquille : Nos neveux, j'en suis bien certain, Se souviendront de Basse lin, Perejoyeux du Vaudeville : p. xxiij. Basselin is supposed to have died at the conclusion of the fifteenth century. His first editor was Jean le Houx, a poet and advocate of Vire, who was born about the middle of the following century. Le Houx was also an imitator of the Vaudev-ires of Basselin, and in short preferred poetry to his profession. The editors of the present volume have favoured us with one of Le Houx's " Vaudevire pour le jour de la Ste. YveS;, fete des Avocats." I shall select the third and fourth stanzas as specimens of the imitator's muse : Que les auarcs Aduocats Gaignent h. se rompre la teste, Pourvu que je sois de leur feste, Certes ne me souciray pas De leur procez ni de leur sacs. ■MiEUX vaut vider et assaillir Un pot qu'un procez difficile ; Au moins cela m'est plus utile. Car les procez me font vieillir j Le bon vin me fait raieunir. I>e Houx's commendation of Basselin is thus expressed : De ce Virois consenous la munder consideration. The title of that edi- tion is as follows : " Le Livre des Chants nouveaux de Vaudevire, par ordre alphabetique, corrig4 et augment^ outre lapr^xMente impression; d Vire, chez Jean de Cesne, Imprimeur." It is without date. Le Houx died in 16 IG, and this impression is supposed to have been published before his death. The text of this edition, together with a purer one found in an octavo MS. written in the black letter, and containing the poetry both of Basselin and Le Houx — (probably of the time of the latter) formed the basis of that of the present impression. This MS. belonged to a medical gentleman, of the name of Poliniere. The corruptions in orthography have been corrected from the models af- forded by the older compositions of Charles d' Orleans and Alain Char- tier. But it should doubtless appear that the curators of the present and this custom prevailed more particularly in Normandy than in other parts of France : Usaige est en Normandie, Que qui hebergiez est qu'il die Fable ou Chanson a son oste. See the ;aitliorities cited at page xv, of this Discom-s prdlirainaire. VIRE. 437 I posted back to Monsieur Adam, the printer and bookseller, and held aloft my blue-covered copy of edition were ignorant of the genuine, and somewhat elegant MS. written also in the gothic letter, which is incidentally noticed at page 357, ante, as in the possession of M. Pluquet. We now come, therefore, immediately to the volume before us, and to a consideration of the character of its contents. It is of a handsome form, approaching the size of a royal octavo. The half title is thus : " Les Faitdevires par Olivier Basselin." The full title, on the follow- ing leaf, is — *' Les Vaudevires, Poesies du \bme Siecle, par Olivier Basselin, avec un Discours sur sa Vie, et des Notes pour V explication de quelques anciens mots. Fire, 1811." On the reverse of this title- page we learn the names of the gentlemen, inhabitants of Vire — ten in number — " by whose care and at whose expense the edition was put forth." The preliminaiy discourse, with its notes, occupies the firstxxxvi pages. The text of the poet begins with this prefix : " Les Chants du Vaudevire par Olivier Basselin." The text, composed of lxvi Vaude- vires, occupies I'iO pages : the notes conclude the volume at page 131. At the bottom of this last page we read the imprint thus: " De Vlm- primerie de F. Le Court, a Avranches." For the honour of the place, and of the memory of its old poetical inhabitant, the book should have been printed as well as published at Vire. There is nothing so very skilful or splendid in its typographical execution, as should have caused Morfsieur Adam to have despaired. However, as the produc- tion of a provincial press, it is very creditably executed. I now proceed to submit a few specimens of the muse of this Fa- ther OF Bacciianalian Poetry in France 3 and must necessarily begin with a select few of those that are chiefly of a bacchanalian quality. FAUDEFIRE IL Ayant le doz au feu et le ventre ^ la table, Estant parmi les pots pleins de vin delectable, Aiusi comme ung poulet Je ne me laisseray morir de la pepie. Quant en debvroye avoi la face cramoisie Et le nez violet. 438 VIRE. the Vaudevires as an unquestionable proof of the suc- cessful result of my visit to Monsieur La Renaudiere. Quant mon nez devendra de couleur rouge ou perse, Porteray les couleurs que cherit ma maitresse. Le vin rent le teint beau. Vault-il pas mieulx avoir la couleur rouge et vive, Riche de beaulx niliis, que si pasle et ch^tive Ainsi qu'ung beuveur d'eau. * VAUDEFIRE XXIX. Je ne treuve en ma medecine Simple qui soit plus excellent, Que la noble plante de vigne D'oii le bon vin clairet provient. 1l n'v a chez I'Apothicaire De drogue *|ue je prize mieulx. Que cj bon vin (jui me faict faire Le sang bon et I'esprit joyeulx. Qu'oN ne m'apporte point de casse, Et qu'on ne tourre au Medecin : De vin qu'on remplisse ma tasse. Qui me voiddra roiulrc bien sain. En mon r<5cip6 qu'on ordonne Que je boirai vin d'Orl(?ans ; La recepte me sera bonne, Les Medecins honnestes gens. Mais s'ils m'ordonnent de I'eau doulce, Ou la tisannc simplcment, * The opening of the following and third Vaudevire begins thus epigram- matically : Adam, c'est chose tr^s notoire Ne nous eust mis en tel dangler, Se au lieu du fatal mangier 11 se fust plustost mis k boire. VIRE. 439 " N'est-ce pas done, Monsieur, (replied he) que je vous ai bien conseille ? Ma foi, vous avez bien jou^ votre r61e." Sont gens qui veulent tout de course Me faire morir povrement. Je ne vueil ni laict ni fruictaige ; De ce je ne suys point friant. Mais je venclroye mon heritage Pour avoir de ee vin friant. O que c'est dure depart ie De ma bouche et de ce bon vin A tous ceuLx-lk je porte envie Qui ont encor le verre plein. The greater part of the Xlth Vaudevire has some fair good broad humour about it : VAUDEVIRE XL Certes hoc vinuin est bonus : Du maidvais latin ne nous chaille, Se bien congru n'e-;toit ce jus, Le tout ne vauldroit rien que vaille. Escolier j'appris que bon vin Aide bien au maulvais latin. Ceste sentence praticquant, De latin je n'en appris gufere ; Y pensant estre assez s^avant, Puisque bon vin aimoye ^ boire. Lorsque maulvais vin on a beu, Latin n'est bon, fust-il congru Fy du latin, parlons fran§ois, Je m'y recongnois davantaige. Je vueil boire une bonne fois. Car voicy ung maistre breuvaige : Certes se j'en beuvoye soubvent, Je deviendroye fort Sequent. 440 VIRE. Ce'st un livre de la plus grande rarete, meme chez nous." Leaving the precious cargo with him, and The manner of thanking his jolly host, and of getting up from a well furnished table, is thus humorously expressed : VAUDEVIRE XVI. C'est assez, troupe honorable, De ces gentils chants Virois ; II fault se lever de table, Le reste en une aultre fois ; Car peut-estre Que le maistre Qui nous assemble c^ans N'oze dire Le martire Et mal que lui font les dents : Souve;^t incominodit6 Provient d'avoir trop chant6. Mais il est trop volontaire Pour avoir le cueur marry D'avoir veu la bonne chifere Que nous avons faict chez luy. Monsieiu- I'lioste, Voyez, j'oste Men bonnet honnestement. On me prie Que je die Qu'on vous rent graces humblement Mais si le \dn reste au pot, Sommes encor de I'^cot. Faictes-en laver la bouche A quelques uns d'entre nous, Avant qu'ung varlet y touclie, Puisque tout ddpend de vous. Je ne cure, Je vous jure. VIRE. 441 telling him that I purposed immediately visiting the public library, he seemed astonished at my eagerness Jamais ma boiiche aultrement. Nostre hostesse, Je vous laisse Mille mercis en payement ; Cecy seroit esventd, J'en boy h votre sant6, J'ay ouy-dire ^ ma grand-mfere, Tousiours des vieiilx on apprent. Que de la goutte deruib*e La bonne chiere d^pent Bonne ferame. Que ton ame Puisse estre au del en repos ! J'ay envie. Si j'ay vie, D'ensuibvre bien tes propos ; Quant siir le bon vin je suis, J'en laisse moins que je puis. A further variety of Basselin's metre is discoverable in his XXIId. Vaudevire, thus : VAUDEVIRE XXn. He ! qu'avons-nous affaire Du Ture ny du Sophy, Don don. Pourveu que j'aye k boire, Des grandeiu"s je dis fy, Don don. Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon : Hoc acuit ingenhim. Qui songe en vin ou vigne, ^ Est ung prdsaige heureux, Don don. 442 VIRE. about books — and asked me if I had ever published any thing bibliographical P " Car enfin, Monsieur, la plus - Le vin h. qui recliigne Rent le cueiir tout joyeux, Don don. Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon : Ho& acuit ingenium. Meschant est qui te brouille, Je parle aux tavemiers, Don don. Le breuvaige Ji grenouille Ne doibt estre aux celliers, Don don. Trincque, Seigneiu", le vin est bon : Hoc acuit ingenium. Que ce vin on ne couppe, ^n^ois qu'on boive net, Don don. Je pry toute la trouppe De vuider le godet, Don don. Trincque, Seigneur, le vin est bon : Hoc acuit ingenium. I have observed that the poetry of Basselin is almost wholly devoted to the celebration of the physical effects of wine upon the body and anioial spirits ; and that the gentler emotions of the tender passion are rarely described in his numbers. In consequence he has not in- voked the Goddess of Beauty to associate with the God of Wine : to " Drop from her myrtle one leaf in his bowl •" or, when he does venture to introduce the society of a female, it is done after the following fashion — which discovers however an extreme facility and melody of rhythm. The burden of the song seems wonder- fully accordant with a Bacchanalian note. VAUDEVIRE XIX. En ung jardin d'onibraige tout convert, Au chaud du joiu", ay treuv6 Madalaine, VIRE. 443 part des Virois ne savent rien de la literature an- gloise" — concluded he . . . but I had just witnessed a Qui prfes le pid d'ung sicomorre vert Dormoit au bort d'une claire fontaine ; Son lit estoit de thin et marjolaine. Son tetin frais n'estoit pas bien cach6 : D'amour touch^. Pour contempler sa beaut6 souveraine Incontinent je m'en suys approehd. Sus, siis, qu'on se resveille, Voicy vin excellent Qui faict lever I'oreille ; II faict mol qui n'en prent. Je n'eus pouvoir, si belle la voyant, De m'abstenir de baizotter sa bouche ; Si bien qu'enfin la belle s'esveillant. Me regardant avec ung oeil farouche. Me dit ces mots : Biberon, ne me touche, Tu n'est pas digne avecq moy d'esprouver Le jeu d'amer : Belle fiUette ^ son aize ne couche Avecq celuy qui ne faict qu'yvrongner. Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille, ^ . Voicy vin excellent Qui faict lever I'oreille ; II faict mol qui n'en prent. Je luy respons : Ce n'est pas deshonneur D'amer le vin, une choze si bonne : Vostre bel oeil entretient en chaleur, Et le vin en sant^, ma personne. Pour vous amer, fault-il que j'abandonne Le soing qu'on doibt avoir de sa sant^ ? Fy de Beaute Qui son amant de desplaisir guerdonne, Au lieu de bien qu'U avoit mdrit^. Sus, sus, qu'on se resveille, » Voicy vin excellent Qui faict lever I'oreille ; II faict mol qui n'en prent. VOL. I. od 444 VIRE. splendid exception to this sweeping clause of censure. 1 then sought the residence of the Abbe Du Mor- J'ayme bien mieulx I'omhre d'ung cabaret Et du beuchon de taverne vineuse, Que cil qui est en ung beau jardiuet. La Belle alorS me respond despiteuse : Tu ne m'es bon, cherche une aultre amoureuse. Puisque par toy j'ay perdu mes amours, Tousiours, tousiours. Centre I'amoiu" et la soif rigoureuse. Que sois, bon vin, arm6 de ton secours. Sus, sus, quon se resveille, Voioy vin excellent Qui faict lever I'oreiUe ; II faict mol qui n'en prent. p. 33. There is no space for further extracts ; and possibly too much already may be supposed to have^een devoted to the poetry of Basselin. But this is a volume in every respect interesting — both to the literary anti- quary and to the Book-Collector. It remains therefore only to add — according to the very minute and specific note, accompanying the copy of it presented to me by Monsieur Lanon de La Renaudiere, one of the Editors — and who now meditates a new and improved as well as enlarged edition of it — that, of this privately circulated impression, ONLY ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES wcrc printed 5 of wliich uumbcr ten were upon red coloured paper, of the manufacture of Vire — ten upon fine vellum paper — ten upon vellum paper in quarto — ten upon common paper in quarto. In his projected edition, M. La Renaudiere purposes to separate the poetry of Basselin from that of Le Houx — which have been somewhat mingled in the volume before us : as well as to write notes upon local customs, events, and places mentioned or alluded toby Basselin, &c. It is proper also to add, that this gentleman is the author of the article Basselin in the Biographic Universelle — to which work indeed he is a regular contributor. The copy under con- sideration has been recently bound by C. Lewis, in red morocco binding, with every appropriate garniture in the character of gilt ornaments ; — a compliment due to the liberality of spirit, and kindness of disposition, of its enthusiastic donor. VIRE. 445 TUEux, the public librarian. That gentleman was from home, on a dinner party. I obtained information of the place where he might be found ; and considering two o'clock to be rather too early an hour (even in France) to disturb a gentleman during the exercise of so important a function, I strolled in the neigh- bourhood of the street, where he was regaling, for a full hour and half: when, at the expiration of that time, I ventured to knock at the door of a very res- pectable mansion, and to enquire for the bibliogra- phical Abbe. " He is here. Sir, and has just done dinner. May I give him your name ?" " I am a stran- ger : an Englishman ; who, on the recommendation of Monsieur La Renaudiere, wishes to see the public library. But I will call again in about an hour." " By no means : by no means : the Abbe will see you immediately." And forthwith appeared a very comely, tall, and respectable-looking gentleman, with his hair en plein costume, both as to form and powder. Indeed I had rarely before witnessed so prepossessing a figure. His salutation and address were most gracious and winning ; and he told me that I had nothing to do but to accompany him to the place which I wished to visit. Without even returning to his friends, he .took his hat, gave me the precedence on quitting the house — and in one minute, to my surprise, I found myself in the street with the Abbe de Mortueux, in the high way to the Public Library. In our way thither our discourse was constant and unrestrained. " You appear here. Monsieur I'Abbe, to be partial to literature ; . . but allow me first to congratulate you on the beautiful environs of your town." " For 446 VIKE. literature in general, we are pretty well disposed. In regard to the beauties of the immediate neighbourhood of Vire, we should be unworthy inhabitants indeed, if we were not sensible of them." In five minutes we reached the Library. The shutters of the room were fastened, but the wor- thy Abbe opened them in a trice ; when I saw, for the first time in Normandy, what appeared to be a genuine, old, unmutilated, unpillaged library. The room could be scarcely more than twenty-two feet square.* I went instantly to work, with eyes and hands, in the ardent hope, and almost full persuasion, of finding something in the shape of a good old Greek or Roman Classic, or French Chronicle, or Romance. But, alas, I looked, and handled the tomes in vain ! The history of the library is this : — The founder was a Monsieur PicHON . who, on being taken prisoner by the Eng- lish, at the capture of Louisburg in 1758, resided a long time in England under the name of Tyrrel, and lived in circumstances of respectability and even of opu- lence. There — whether on the dispersion of the libra- ries of our Meads, Foulkes', and Rawlinsons, I know not — he made his collection ; took his books over with him to Jersey, where he died in 1780 : and bequeathed them, about 3000 in number, to his native town of Vire. M. du Mortueux, who gave me these particulars, has drawn up a little memorial about him. His portrait, executed by an English artist, (whilst he lived among us) adorns the library ; with which I hope it will go down to a remote and grateful posterity. The colour- • It forms the building to the left, in the middle ground, in the view of the Fountain, &c. See page 424, ante. VIRE. 447 ing of this portrait is faded : but it is evident that Monsieur Pichon had an expressive and sensible phy- siognomy. Mr. Lewis could not do every thing ; or I would have carried a transcript of it, by his faithful pencil, with me to Paris — to be executed by a French bunn. Wonderful to relate, this collection of books was un- touched during the Revolution ; while the neighbour- ing library of the Cordeliers was ransacked without mercy. But I regret to say that the books in the cup- boards are getting sadly damp. Do not expect any thing very uiarvellous in the details of this collection ; The old-fashioned library doors, of wood, are quite in character with what they protect. Among the earlier printed books, I saw a very bad copy of Sweynheym and Pannartzs edition of the De Civitate Dei of St. Austin, of the date of 1470 ; and a large folio of Ge- ring's impression of the Sermons of Thomas de Utino printed in the xviith year of the reign of Louis XI: or about the year 1471. This latter was rather a fine copy. A little black-letter Latin Bible by Froben, of the date of 1495, rather tempted me ; but I could not resist asking, in a manner half serious and half jocose, whether a napoleon would not secure me the posses- sion of a piquant little volume of black-letter tracts, printed by my old friend Guido Mercator?* The Abbe smiled : observing — " mon ami, on fait voir les livres ici : on les lit meme: mais on ne les vend pas." I felt the force of this pointed reply : and was re- solved never again to ask an ecclesiastic to part with * Some account of this printer^ together with a fac-simile of his device, may be seen in the Bibliographical Decameron, vol. ii. p. 33-6. 448 VI RE. a black-letter volume, even though it were printed by " my old friend Guido Mercator." Seeing there was very little more deserving of investigation, I enquired of my amiable guide about the " Library of the Cordeliers," of which he had just made mention. He told me that it consisted chiefly of canon and civil law, and had been literally almost destroyed : that he had contrived however to secure a great number of " rubbishing theological books," (so he called them !) which he sold for three sous a piece — and with the pro- duce of which he bought many excellent works for the library. I should like to have had the sifting of this " theological rubbish !" Peradventure an Olivet Bible, or a TyndaVs New Testament, (in former times, when theCalvinists got atemporary ascendancy) might have found their way amidst the interminable rows of the Latin vulgate impression. Or rather, I wished to per- suade myself that this supposition was not a mere delusion ; and accordingly rummaged, high and low, in all directions . . . but to no purpose. It remained therefore only to thank the Abbe most heartily for his patient endurance of my questions and searches, and particularly to apologise for bringing him from his surrounding friends. He told me, beginning with a " soyez tranquille," that the matter was not worth either a thought or a syllable ; and ere we quitted the libraiy, he bade me observe the written entries of the numbers of students who came daily thither to read. There were generally (he told me) from fifteen to twenty " hard at it :" and I saw the names of not fewer than ninety-two who aspired to the honour and privilege of having access to the Bibliotheca VIRE. 449 PicHONiANA. There is certainly no evidence of a back- wardness of disposition to obtain knowledge among the students of the department of Calvados. For the third time, in the same day, I visited Mon- sieur Adam ; to carry away, Mke a bibhomaniacal Jason, the fleece I had secured. I saw there a grave, stout gentleman — who saluted me on my entrance, and who was introduced to me by Monsieur A. by the name of Seguin. He had been waiting (he said) full three quarters of an liour to see me, and concluded by observing, that, although a man in business, he had aspired to the honour of authorship. He had written, in fact, two rather interesting — but wretchedly, and incorrectly printed — duodecimo volumes, relating to the BocAGE,* in the immediate vicinity of Vire; and * relating to the Bocage.'] — The first publication is entitled " Essai sur VHistoire de VIndustrie du Bocage en General, et de la Ville de Vire sa capitate en particuUer, 5fc." Par M. Richard Seguin. A Vire, chez Adam, Imprimeur, an 1810, 12ino, It is not improbable that I may have been the only importer of this useful and crowdedly- paged duodecimo volume ; which presents us with so varied and ani- mated a picture of the manners, customs, trades, and occupations of the Bocains and Mrois, that I am persuaded the following extracts will be received rather with indulgence than censure. Manufactories of Cloth and Paper. *' La reunion des deux rivieres de Fire et de Virtne, ainsi que de plu- sieurs ruisseaux, ont encore facilite en cette ville I'etablissement de deux autres belles manufactures, la draperie et la papeterie. La Virtue, dont les eaux claires et limpides roulent sur un sable dorfe, semble avoir ete placee exprbs par la nature pour 1' emplacement des moulins k papier ,- car les bords de la Vire etant converts de moulins k fouler, et les eaux de cette riviere etant continuellement troublees par la crasse des degrais des draps et tirtaine qu'on y foule en grande 450 VIRE. was himself the sole vender and distributer of his pub- lications. On my expressing a wish to possess these quantite, elle ne serait gubres propre pour la papeteriej cependant il s'y en est etabli quelques-unes depuis la grande inondation de Vire^ ar- rivee en 1782. '^Plusieurs moulins foulons ayant ete entraines paries eauxj quelques fabricants de popier achet?;rent les emplaceniens situes sous le chateau de Vire, et y batirent plusieurs moulins qu'on y voit. On en trouve aussi quelques-uns sur la petite riviere de Maisoncelles, qui se jette dans la Vire audessus de cette ville ; mais le plus grand nombre des papeteries de Vire, et les plus belles de tout le Bocage, sont sur la Virtue, Au commencement du quatorzifeme siecle, le papier fut in- vent6 par un citadin de Padoue en Italie. Auparavant on ne faisait usage que de parchemin. On ne commen^a k s'en servir en France qu'en 1342. Toute la Vallee des "\'aux de Vire est remplie de moulins h papier, de vastes magasins, tant pour loger le chiffon, la colle et les autres matiferes premi^,res que pour le papier de toute espfece qu'on y fabrique en grande quantite. Toutes ces usines, ainsi que les raaisons des manufacturiers qui les accompagnent, sont b^ties presque toutes en pierre de taille et bien construites, &c. &c." p. 156. "Quoiqu'on ne puisse fixer au juste I'etablissement de lapapeterie h. Vire, il parait pourtant que c'est dans le courant du seizifeme siecle puisque dfes I'an 1600, il y avait deja des moulins a papier batis dans les Vaux de Vire 3 ainsi il y avait a peine deux sifecles que cette inven- tion 6tait connue qu'on en fabriquait deja k Vire. Les manufacturiers de cette ville tirent la plus grande partie du chiffon necessaire, de la ci-devant Bretiigne. Tout le papier de cette fabrique est exporte en differentes villes de I'interieur, a Rouen, au Havre et sur-tout k Paris, oii il en est vendu la majeure partie." p. 159. In the following paragraph we learn that " St. Anne is the pre- siding patroness of paper makers j and that the anniversary of her birth day is celebrated by a suspension of all labour, and by proces- sions and amusements among the workmen." But of these two ma- nufactories, that of CLOTH is the greater. The author becomes quite animated and picturesque in a portion of his description of it. " Quoiqu'il en soit, cette manufacture, etablie k Vire, ne tarda pas ky VIRE. 451 books, he quitted the premises, and begged I would wait his return with a copy or two of them. While he faire de grands progrfes. Le cours tortueux de la riviere de Vire, sa rapidite, les rochers dont elle est remplie, formant aupr^s de cette ville une grande quantite de cascades et de sauts, a rendu facile la construction des moulins k foulon, et autres qui y sont en assez grand nombre. D'autre part, la terre qui sert k degraisser les draps s'y trouve trfes "k commodite dans la lande de Clermont ; les foulons de Vire la vantent comme excellente et lui donnent la preference sur toutes celles qu'on trouve ailleurs. Ces divers avantages naturels r^unis, favoriserent beaucoup I'etablissement et les progrfes de cette grande manufacture, une des plus considerables qui soit en France, au moins par le grand nombre d'ouvriers qu'elle occupe, puisque je ne crois pas exag^rer de porter leur nombre k plus de cinq mille per- sonnes, tant dans la ville qu'k la campagne." p, 161. During the invasion of Italy by the French, it was the town of Vire which supplied all the clothing — especially the coarser part — for the army. Hear what the author observes upon this. " Dans ce tems-la nos armees faisant de grands progrfes en Italic, Vire fournit k cette armee une immense quantity de draps de bourre, de la plus basse qualite qu'il soit possible de faire. On les nomma cisal- pins, du nom d'une republique nouvellement fondee. Ces draps gris, bruns, et de toutes sortes de couleurs melees, semblaient etre toujours trop bons, puisqu'on voyait des marchands, apres les avoir achet^s, les faire remettre k la ramme pour les faire allonger de plusieurs aunes : aussi le plus cher des cisalpins allait-il au prix de cine francs I'aune ; car les Virois ont le talent de faire du drap au prix le plus modique qu'on puisse desirer. Quoiqu'il en soit, ce talent, si e'en est un, a fait entrer dans Vire, des sommes immenses de numeraire, et les cisalpins ont enrichi bien des drapiers, qui auraient tout perdu, s'ils n'avaient fabrique que des draps fins et de haut prix." p. 172 The concluding sentence, and that which immediately follows* " * Voil^, je crois, la vraie cause qui fait que la draperie de Vire est depuis loug-teras dans le mSme ^tat, d'oii elle ne peut gu^res esp^rer do sortir, parce 452 VIRE. was gone, M. Adam took the opportunity of telling me that he was a rich, respectable tradesman ; but that, the preceding, were one among the causes which drew down upon the author the indignation of his fellow-townsmen, I proceed to pro- bably more interesting extracts ; and shall commence with that relating to the Dhess and Character of the Women. " Quant au costume des fbmmes d'aujourd'hui, comme il faudrait un. volume entier pour le decrire, je n'ai pas le courage de m'engager dans ce labyrinte de ridicules et de frivolites, Ce que j'en dirai seule- ment en general, c'est qu'autant les femmes du temps passe, etaient d^centes et chastes, et se faisaient gloire d'etre graves et modestes, autant celles de notre sifecle, mettent tout en oeuvre pour paraitre cy- nyques et voluptueuses. Nous ne sommes plus au temps ovi les plus grandes dames se faisaient honneur de porter la cord^lifere.* Leurs ha- billemens etaient aussi larges et fermes, que celui des femmes de nos jours sont ouverts et legers et d'une finesse que les formes du corps^ au moindre mouvement, se dessinent, de manifere k ne laisser rien ig- norer. A peine se couvrent-elles le sein d'un voile transparent tr^s- l^ger ou de je ne sais quelle palatine qu'elles nomment point-a-jour, qui, en couvrant tout, ne cache rien ; en sorte que si elles n etaient pas tous leurs charmes a decouvert, c'est que les hommes les moins scrupuleux, qui se contentent de les persifler, en seraient revolt^s tout-h-fait. D'ailleurs, c'est que ce n'est pas encore la mode j plu- sieurs poussent meme I'impudence jusqu'k venir dans nos temples sans coiffure, les cheveux herisses comme des furies ; d'autres, par une bizarrerie qu'on ne peut expliquer se dcpouillent, autant qu'il est en leur pouvoir, des marques de leur propre sexe, semblent rougir d'etre femmes, et deviennent ridicules en voulant paraitre demi- hommes. que plusieurs obstacles presqu'invincibles s'y opposent. Le premier est dans la quality des laines qu'on y employe ; un second vient du trop peu d'attention de la part des fabricants. " * " Ceinture alors regardde comme le symbole de la continence. La reine de France en ddcorait les femmes titrdes dont la conduite dtait irr^rochable." Hist, de la reun. de Bretagne t la France par Vabbe trail. VIRE. 453 having- said some severe things of the manufactures of Vire in his first pubhcation, relating to the civil " Aprfes avoir d^shonorfe I'habit des femmes, elles ont encore voulu prostituer celui des hommes. On Ics a vues adopter successivement les chapeaux, les redingotes, les vestes, les gilets, les bottes et jus- qu'aux boutons. Enfin si, au lieu de jrpons, elles avaient pu s'ac- commoder de I'usage de la culotte, la mfetamorphose fetait complette ; mais elles ont prfef^re les robes trainantes ; e'est domniage que la na- ture ne leur ait donne une troisibme main, qui leur serait necessaire pourtenir cette longue queue, qui souvent patrouille laboue on balaye la poussifere. Pltlt a Dieu que les anciennes lois fussent encore on vi- gueur, oil ceux et celles qui portaient des habits indecent etaient obliges d'aller k Rome pour en obtenir I'absolution, qui ne pouvait leur ^tre accordee que par le souverain pontife.* " Eneffet, le pape Eugbne ne permit, en 1435, aux Cordeliers, d'ab- soudre les femmes qui portaient des habits indecens et des robes k queues, que dans le cas oil elles n'auraient fait que suivre la coutume du pays et non a dessein de s^duirej et s'il permit ^galement d'absou- dre les tailleurs et couturiferes qui faisaient de ces habillemens, ce ne fut qu'k condition qu'ils n'imagineraient plus de nouvelles modes. O antiques et sages ordonnances, que vous seriez utiles de nos jours ! ** Mais aprfes m'etre ennuye k decouvrir la turpitude de quelques folles k qui la fureur des modes tourne la tfete, ou dont la toilette fait toute I'occupation, il est doux de se reposer sur un sujet plus agrdable, en essayant de tracer le tableau des vertus et des talens du plus grand nombre des femmes du Bocage, ou Ton peut dire que les bonnes mcEurs et I'honnetete sont encore en honneur, malgre le d^bordement des vices qui ont inonde la France pendant I'absence de la Religion. Mais comme les Bocains y sont tres-attaches et que la plupart lui sont rest^s fidfeles, m^me durant son exil, on doit espferer que I'air hagard et les reparties fibres de quelques femmes (assaisonnees d'un b. ou d'une f.) disparaitront entierement. On voit d^jk avec plaisir que la saine morale reprend son empire de jour en jour, sur-tout parmi les femmes. * Foyes Vhab. des icol- sectiliers par Vabbe Boileati. Recreations historiques par M. Dreux-Duradier, tome II. 454 VIRE. history of the Bocains, his townsmen sharply resented what they considered as reflections thrown out against qui ne devraient jamais oublier que la sagesse et la modestie sont les deux plus beaux ornemens de leur sexe. "Les femmes du Bocage, et sur-tout les Viroisesjoignent a un esprit vif et enjoue les qualites du corps les plus estimables. Blondes et brunes pour le plus grand nombre, elles sent de la m( yenne taille, niais bien formees : elles ont le teint frais et fleuri, I'cpil vif, le visage vermeil^ la demarche leste, un air etofle et tifes elegantes dans tout leur maintien. Si on dit avec raison que les Bayeusines sont belles, les filles du Bo- cage, qui sont leurs voisines, ne leur cfedent en aucune manitre, car en general le sang est tr^s-beau en ce pays. Quant aux talens spirituels, elles les poss^dent h. un degre eminent. EUes parlent avec aisance, ont le repartie prompte, et outre les soins du menage, oil elles excellent de telle sorte qu'il n'y a point de contrfees oti il y ait plus de linge, elles entendent k merveille, et font avec succ^s, tout le detail du com- merce." p. '238. These passages also, notwithstanding the sort of amende honor- able made in the concluding paragraph, raised a storm of indignation and bitterness against the unsuspecting author. From a consideration that copies of this work may be of extreme rarity, as well as from a conviction that it contains within itself some very interesting informa- tion, I shall submit two — and only two more passages : the one, rela- ting to the introduction of the art of painting ; the other, to that of the art of printing, in the Bocage. They are as follow: " Le grand nombre d'anciens tableaux qu'on voyait dans les 6gliseset les monastcres du Bocage, peuvent faire croire que cet ^tat y etait en estimej sans doute que la plupart de ces tableaux n'avaient pas kte ex^cutfes que par des etrangers, puisque ce fut un peintre de Rome qui vint peindre la vodte de I'eglise de Vire en 1.534, cela prouve qu'il n'y avait point de peintre en ce pays, puisqu'on fut oblige d'en faire venir un de si loin et k si grands frais. Entre tous les anciens tableaux qui se voyaient dans I'feglise Notre-Dame de Vire, on remarquait Tado- ration des bergers qui fetait autrefois au maitre-autelj il est actuelle- ment placfe dans la chapelle N uve, au cotfe de I'fepitre. Quoiqu'il soit vieux, il porte encore des marques de son ancienne beauts. Le co- VIRE. 4^ them ; and M. Seguin was told that perhaps his per- sonal safety was endangered ! . . . He wanted not a loris en 6tait eclatant, il formait un bel ensemble, on y remarquait sur-tout un bel ange qui parait dans I'admiration, ainsi qu'un berger tenant sa houlette, ayant un agneau couche k c6t^ de lui." p. 245. Quant a l'ijiprimerie, on salt que cet art n'est pas ancien, puisqu'il n'a ete invente qu'au quinzifeme siecle. Pendant tout le sifecle suivant, il n'y eut gu^res que les grandes villes qui en eussent. Ainsi il n'est pas etonnant qu'il n'y en edt pas au Bocage. ''Le premier Imprimeur dont on ait connaissance, pour la ville de Vire, fut ut nomnie Jean Decesne, vers le commencement du 17e. sifelce. Quelques exemplaires de son impression font voir que, non- seulement il etait habile dans I'art typographique, mais qu'il etait sa- vant et possedait les langues anciennes : car dans quelques livres sortis de ses presses, on trouve, outre le Latin, du Grec, et meme de VHe- breu. II y a entr'autres un livre de controverses contre les Calvinistes, que Decesne imprima en 1670. Les exemplaires en sont trhs- rares. " Depuis sa mort, jusqu'en 1790, Vire n'eut aucune Imprimerie, mais ^ cette epoque, la revolution etant arrivee, M. Malo, fr^re-qu&teur cor- delier, du convent de cette ville, se fit Imprimeur. Mais M. Malo osa aspirer k une plus haute fortune. On a vu bien des fois, sous la haire et le froc, le meme courage, que sous le casque et la cuirasse. M. Malo, sentant petiller le feu martial au fond de ses entrailles, se fit sol- dat, et la fortune le servit si bien qu'il devint gfenferal. Ce grade valait infiniment mieux que de faire gfemir la presse ; aussi il la vendit, et le sieur Lebel lui succeda. " Un an aprfes, le sieur Adam en fetablit une nouvelle ^ Vire. Ainsi cette viUeposs^de actuellement deux Imprimeries. En 1S08, le pre- mier Janvier, le sieur Adam entreprit de publier un nouveau journal, qu'il continue sous le nom de Journal de V arrondissement de Vire.'' p. 253. It seems not a little severe and discouraging, that a man, vpho, im- mersed in business, and writing both to amuse himself and to exalt the talents of his townsmen — as M. Seguin has done — (in the little volume before us, of upwards of 400 pages) should have met with a fate so wholly unmerited and unexpected. But doubtless there must be a 456 VIRE. second hint — but fled from home with precipitancy : and in his absence the populace suspended his effigy, secret history, or key, attached to the transaction, which I frankly own I have neither the curiosity nor the means to ascertain. We now come to the second of M. Seguin's publications— entitled Histoire Mili- taire des Bocains; k Vire, &c. 1816 12mo. pp. 4'29. This is in every respect more generally interesting (beyond the limits of Vire) than its precursor. The author begins thus : " Lorsque je donnai mon Histoire de I'lndustrie du Bocage au Public, je me vis en butte aux calomnies les plus odieuses et les plus contra- dictoires. Ma vie fut exposee aux plus graves dangers. Je fus jug^ sans examen, condamnfe avecfureur, et livre aux exfecuteurs des hautes oeuvres, avant meme d'avoir pu ouvrir la bouche pour me dfefendre. Mais I'aviditt! mercantile qu'on supposait blessee, n'en etait quele pre- texte ; la jalousie en etait le veritable sujet, et I'esprit revolutionnaire permettait alors de tout oser contre moi.* " II est vrai que ce n'est pas d'aujourd'hui que les hommes qui ont le plus travaille b. illustrer leur Patrie, ont fete honnis et pfersecutfes. N'est-cepas dans ce pays qu'ont vecu des Olivier Basselin et des Maljil- atre, dontl'un fut privfe de ses droits les plus legitimes, et I'autre reduit a iriourir de misfere ? Si de si grands hommes ont fete mfeconnus ou mfeprisfes, jesaisque jenesuis pastrop endroitde me plaindre, car jen'ai ni leur talent, ni leur rfeputation, aussi n'est-ce point pour accuser per- sonne que je rapporte ces faits, mais seulement pour obtenir la gr5.ce d'fetre lu avant d'etre jugfe, afin du moins de n'etre condamnfe que dans les formes. J'aurais pu citer en ma faveur le tfemoignage honorable que m'ont rendu plusieurs Acadfemiciens et autres Savans illustres, tant de la Capitale que des Dfepartemens. Mais quelques soient les clameurs de mes ennemis, je me contenterai de leur rfepondre avec un des plus grands hommes du 16°. sifecle,f Faites mieux, ou laissez faire ceux a qui Dieii en a donn4 le talent. %" * Voyez le Journal de PArrondissement de Vire, Aout 1810. + Le Card. Ximen^s aux d^tracteurs d'Erasme. Dupin des Antiquit^s, T. 1. p. 77., Fleuri Hist. Eccl. T. 26, p. 339. ^ Chacun ^ ce m6tier Pent perdre impun^ment de I'encre et du papier. Boileau. VIRE. 457 and burnt it before the door of his house. This, how- ever, did not cool the ardour of authorship in M. S^- guin. He set about pubhshing his military history of This publication is really filled with a great variety of curious histo- rical detail — throughout which is interspersed much that relates to " romaunt lore" and romantic adventures. The civil wars between Montgomery and Matignon form alone a very important and inter- esting portion of the volume ; and it is evident that the author has ex- erted himself with equal energy and anxiety to do justice to both par. ties — except that occasionally he betrays his antipathies against the Hugonots.* I have quoted the commencing passage of this work : let me also quote the concluding one. There may be at least half a score readers who may think it something more than merely histo- rically curious : ''^Je finirai done ici mon Histoire. Je n'ai point parl6 d'un grand nombre des faits d'armes et d'actions glorieuses, qui se sont pass6s dans la guerre de I'independance des Etats-Unis d'Am^rique ovl beaucoup de Bocains ont eu part ; mais mon principal dessein a 6te de traiter des guerres qui ont eu lieu dans le Bocage; ainsi je crois avoir atteint mon but, qui etait d'ecrire I'Histoire Militaire des Bocains par des faits et non pas des phrases ; je ne peux cependant omettre une circonstance glorieuse pour le Bocage ; c'est la visite que le bon et infortune Louis XVI. fit aux Bocains en 1786. Ce grand Monarque dont les vues elaient aussi sages que profondes, avait resolu de faire construire le beau Port de Cherbourg, ouvrage vraiment Royal, qui est une des plus nobles entreprises qui aient ^te faites depuis I'origine de la Mo- narchie. Les Bocains sentirent I'avantage d'un si grand bienfait, Le Roivenant visiter les travaux, fut accueilli avec un enthousiasme presqu'- impossible k decrire, ainsi que les Princes qui I'accompagnaient. Sa marche ressemblait a un triomphe. Les peuples accouraient en foule du fond des campagnes, et bordaient la route, faisant retentir les airs de chants d'alfegresse et des cris millions de fois rfepetes de Vive le Roi ! * " Les soldats Huguenots commirent dans cette occasion, toutes sortes de cruautds, d'infaimes et de sacrileges, jusqu'^ meler les Saintes Hosties avec I'avoine qu'Lls donnaient k leurs chevaux : mais Dieu permit qu'ils n'en vou- lurent pas manger." p. 369. 458 VIRE. the Bocains ; and in the introductory part takes occa- sion to retort upon the violence of his persecutors. To return to M, Seguin. In about ten minutes he appear- ed, with two copies in his hand — which I purchased, I thought dearly, at five francs each volume ; or a napoleon for the four books. After the adventures of this day, I need hardly tell you that I relished a substantial dinner at a late hour, and that both Mr. L. and myself were well satisfied with Vire. Yesterday M. La Renaudiere made good his engage- ment, and dined with us at five, in the salle k manger. This is a large inn ; and if good fare depended upon the number and even elegance of female cooks, the tra- veller ought to expect the very best at the Cheval Blanc. The afternoon was so inviting — and my guest having volunteered liis services to conduct me to the most beautiful points of view in the immediate neigh- bourhood — that we each seemed to vie with the other in dispatching what was placed before us . . . and within thirty-five minutes, from the moment of sitting down, we were in the outskirts of Vire. Never shall I forget that afternoon's ramble. The sun seemed to MusiquCj Processions, Arcs de triomphe, Chemins jonch^s de fleurs ; tout fut prodigufe. Les villes de Caen, de Bayeux, de Saint-Lo, de Carentan, de Valognes, se surpasserent dans cette occasion, pour prouver "k S. M. leur amour et leur reconnaissance; mais rien ne fut plus brillant que I'entrfee de ce grand Roi k Cherbourg. Un peuple immense, le clergfe, toute la noblesse du pays, le son des cloches, le bruit du canon, les acclamations universelles prouvferent au Monarque mieux encore que la pompe toute Royale et les fetes magnifiques que la ville ne cessa de lui donner tous les jours, que les coeurs de tous les Bocains ^taient ^ lui." p. 428. VIRE. 459 become more of a golden hue, and the atmosphere to increase in clearness and serenity. A thousand little songsters were warbling in the full-leaved branches of the trees ; while the mingled notes of the hlanchis- seuses and the milk-maids, near the banks of the rippling stream below, reached us in a sort of wild and joyous harmony — as we gazed down from theoverhang- ing heights. The meadows were spotted with sheep, and the orchards teemed with the coming fruit. You may form some notion of the value of this rich and pictu- resque scenery, when I tell you that M. La Renau- diere possesses land, in the immediate vicinity of Vire, which lets at £, Koberger, folio — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - — 61 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. Ful. Page. jintonius Sabellicus, hi Munit. Sontiac. 4to. — in the library of Gott%vic Monastery, - - - - iii. 430 Anton, de S. Greg. Com. Decret. Pavia, 1476, folio — in tlie Imperial Library at Vienna, - . - - iii. 502 Apocalypse, block-book — in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 256 ■ ■ , in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 146 , in the library of Gottvvic Monastery, — 428 • , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 531 , Ital. Reisinger, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 483 Apollinaris Offred. adv. Mant. B. Gallus, 1478, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 504 Apostles Creed, in German, block-book, with fac simile — in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 384 Appianus Lat., 1472, V. de Spira, in the Public Library at Niu-emberg, - - Supplement, xxvi , Ratdolt. 1478, folio— in the library of the Monas- tery of St. Florian, ... - iii. 390 -, Gr. 1551. folio — Diane de Poictiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 316-7 Apuleius, 1469, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - — 282 , imperfect, in the Public Library at Munich, " - - - - iii. 290 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 493 , 1472, Jenson, folio — in the last mentioned library, - - - - — 493 Aquinas, T., Sec. Secundas, Schoeffher, 1467, folio — upon VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 505 '■ , Mentelin, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - — 69 , P. de Puzbach. No date, folio -in the same library, . - - ibid. , Opus Quartiscript. Schoeffher. 1469, folio — UPON VELLUM, in the same library, - - ihid , In Evang. Matt, et Marc. 1470, S. and Pannarts, folio — in the same library, - - ibid. , de virtut. et vitiis. Mentelin — in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 289 Arbre des Batailles, Verard, 1493, folio — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - i. 286 vi INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS rol. Page. Aretinus de Bello Gothico, 1470, folio — ^in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 333 Aretlnus, L., de Studiis et Litteris, {Later) 4to. — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 142 Aristophanes, Gr. Aldus, 1498, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - - i. 178 Aristotelis Opera, Gr. Aldus, 1498, 6 vols. Two copies upon VELLUM (the first volume in each copy wanting) in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 291 Comment Eustratii, 1536, Aldus, folio, large paper copy in the same collection, _ - . Ethica Nichomachea. Gr. {Aldus) — remarkably splendid copy of, in the Royal Library at Paris, Ethica. Lat. Mentelin. Folio — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, . _ _ Ars Memorandi, &c. — block book : five copies of, in the Public Library at Munich, - - in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - - in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - . - . in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - Ars Moriendi, Germanic^ — 4to. — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - ... , Lat. block book — two editions, in the Public Library at Munich, . . - . Art de Men Mourir, Verard, no date, folio — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - Art and Crafte to know well to dye, Caxton, in the Royal Library at Paris, _ _ _ . Artus Le Roy, MS. xiith century, — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - Another MS. of the same Romance, in the same Library, Artaxani Summa, (1469) folio — in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - - - iii. 232 Augustinus Sts. De Cmtate Dei, 1467, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 262 — ■ in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris, - - - 346 Cil4 — 293 iii. 69 — 282 — 335 — 631 — 428 — 146 283 ii. 288 ii. 217 ii. 223 224 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. vii yol. Page. ^ugustinus Sts. De Civitate Dei, 1467, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 483 , in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - - — 616 ■ • Siceynheym and Pannartz, 14/0, folio, in the Public Library at Vire, - - i. 447 V. de Spira, 1470, folio — in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - i. 176 ^— — ^— — , UPON VELLUM, late in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, - - - iii. 373 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 483 , upon paper, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - — 429 ■— ■ , Mentelin, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - — 62 , in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 293 , in the Public Librarj' at Land shut, - - . . _ 335 Schoeffher, 1473, folio — in the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster, — 374 , Jenson 14/5, folio — UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 483 EpistoleE, Mentelin, folio, three copies, mth diflferent ms. dates, in the Public Library at Munich, - — 293 ', Mentelin — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 484 Confessionum, Libri XIII. 1475. 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - • . — 434 de Trinitate, folio — in the same collection, - ibid. de arte prcedicandi. Fust — in the possession of M. Levrault at Strasbourg, - - . — 96 de stngularitnte Clericorum, 1467, 4to. — in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, - . — I63 AuGusTiNi Sti. in Psalmos, MS. xvth centiuy — formerly in the library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, and now in that of the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 155 Yppon. de Cons. Evang. 1473, folio — in the Public Librarj' at Augsbourg, - - . — 232 Aulus Gellius, 1469, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 282 viii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Vol. Page. Aulus Gellhis, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ..... iji. 493 Juso7iius,\AT2, ioVio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 282 in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - iii. 494 , ^Idus, 1517, 8vo. Grolier's copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, . - - ii. 314 Aymon, les quatrefilz, 1583, 4to. — in the Library of the Ar- senal, at Paris - ... . — 334 B. Balbus, Tract, de Queest. 1477- 4to. in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - . i. I77 Ballads 5 Bon Jour, Bon Soir: Le Vaillant Troubadour, vol. i. 224 - Totijours, 389 ; various, from the Faudevires of Oli- vier Basselin, 435-444 ; Vive Le Roi, Vive U Amour, ii. 3. ; Naissance de Guillaume le Conquerant, ii. 54 ; en arborant le drapeau blanc, at Falaise, ii. 23 ; le Baiser d^ Adieu, 48 ; L' Image de la Vie, 49 ; Le Troubadour Parisien, 50 ; Sauve qui pent, 51 ; Balade jftyeux des Taverniers, ii. 287. Bartholus Lectura. V. de Spira, \47l. Folio. In the Impe- rial Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 505 Bartsch, /. Adam de — Catalogue des Estampes, par, Sfc. 1818. 8vo. . - - - . ;•_ _ 605 Bastiano Forest, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 614 Bella (La) Mano, 1474, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - . . . _ 514 Bellovacensis Vine. Spec. Hist. 1473, folio ; in the Public Li- brary at Rouen, - - - - i. 176 —' — in the Public Library at Augs- boiu-g, .... - iii. 233 ■ -^— — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 506 ■ Morale, 1476, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - . - - iii. 59 Benedictionarius, MS. xith century— in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - . . j. 169-175 Berlinghieri, Geografia, folio — in the Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, . - - iii. 515 Berinus et Aygres de Lamunt, Bonfons, no date, in the Li- brary of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - ii. 336-7 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. ix Fol Page. Bessarionh Epistolce, (1469) folio -in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - ... iii. 143 ■ , folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 506 Bessarion, Card. Oral, ad IncUt. Ital. Princ. Gering. 4to. in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - . . — 506 BiBLiA Latina, MS. ixth century, of Charles the Bald -in the Royal Library at Paris, with a copper-plate engraving of that IMonarch's portrait, - - - ii. 156-162 — xiith century, in the same library, - ii. 166 xvth century, of the Emperor Wen- ceslaus — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, with three fac- simile engraved illustrations, . _ _ iii. 461-463 Biblia Hist. Paraphrastica, MS. xvth centiu-y, - - ii. 168-172 Biblia Polyghtta Complut. 1516, &c. in the Public Library at Coutances, - - - - - i. 412 copy belonging to Diane de Poictiers, iu the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 316 copy of Demetrius Chalcondylas, afterwards that of Eckius, in the Public Library at Land- shut, ..... iii. 336 Walton ; royal copy, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - - i. 336 with the original de- dication, in the Librarj' of the Arsenal at Paris, - - iii. 138 (note.) \ with the original de- dication, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, - - — 138 in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, in Austria - - — 391 Biblia Polyghtta, Le Jay : in the Chapter Library at Bayeux, i. 3/3 in the Library of the Lycee at do. — 374 in the Library of the Hotel de Ville at St. Lo, - - - - - — 396 Hebraica, edit. Soncini, 1488, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - . . . . iii. 486 Houbigant, 1753, in a Private Collec- tion near Bayeux, - - - - i. 361 Hahn, 1806, in the Library of the Mo- nastery of Clostenieubm'g, ... . iii. 615 GrcBch, Aldus, 1518, folio — Francis Ist's copy, upon thick paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 313 B X INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. Biblia Greeca, Aldus, upon thick paper, ia the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 323-4 the usual copy, in the King's Private Li- brary at Stuttgart, . _ _ . iii. 162 Biblia Lat'tna, (edit. Mas. \Abb) folio, 2 vols., two copies of, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 253 a copy in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 364-5 a copy in the Public Li- brary at Munich, . . . . _ iii. 287 a copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna - - - - - — 484 Pfister, (1461) folio, 3 vols, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 255 in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, (imperfect) - - iii. 137 ■ • ■ — - in the Imperial Library at Vienna - - - — 485 F^st and Schoefflier, 1462: folio — three copies (two upon vellum, and a third on paper) in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - ii. 321 VELLUM COPY, in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, - - ii. 346 in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - ii. 365 in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - iii, 137 ■ (imperfect) in the Public Library at Landshut, — 335 in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 485 Biblia Latina, Mentelin — in the Public Library at Stras- bourg, - - - - - _ 56 in the Imperial Library at Vi- enna, - - . - — 485 EggeRtexjn, (ms. date, 1468) in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - — 57 (n^s_ (jate, 1466) in the Public Library at Munich, - - . . . — 289 . supposed edition of Eggesteyn, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - . , — 55 ■ , 1475, folio, Frisner, &c. — in the Public Li- brary at Augsbourjr, - . _ . Hi. 228 (I475 edit. Gering) imperfect copy in the Chapter Library ;.t Bayeux, > - - i. 373 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. Fol. Page. Biblia Latina, Hailbrun, 1476, folio : two copies, of which one is UPON VELLUM, In the Imperial Library atVienna, - iii. 486 Jenson, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 68 UPON VEL- LUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna— and a second copy upon paper, - . . _ . 486 Litt. R — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - . - - iii 486 , 1483, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - i. 177 , 1485, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 333 Froben, 1495, 8vo. in the Public Library at Vire, - - - - - - — 447 Biblia Germanica, Mentelin, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - . . . . . . ii. 255 in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - ~ - - - - iii. 55 two copies, in the Public Library at Stuttgart, ** - - - - — 1 37 ' two copies in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - - — 287 ■■ in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - - . — 334 in the Library at Clos- terneuburg Monaster)', - - - - — 616 — in the Public Library at Ratisbon, - - - Supplement, xr imperfect copy, (ms. date of 1467) in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, - - - Supplement, — xi — ^— — ' in the Public Library at Nuremberg, - - Supplement, — xxv supposed first edition, in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - — 334 , supposed first edition, folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - . . — 428 , Sorg, Augsbourg, 1477, folio, in the Li- brary of Professor Veesenraeyer, at Ulm, - - — 195 xii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. Bihlia Germanka, Sorg, Augshourg, 1477, folio, in the Li- brary' of the INIonastery of St. Florian, - - iii. 390 , Peypus, 1524, folio — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 137 Biblia Italica ; Kalend. August'i, 1471 — folio — in the Mazarine Library, at Paris, - - - - ii. 365 imperfect copy, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - iii. 138 Kalend. Octohrh, 1471, folio — in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, at Paris, - - - ii. 346 in the Roval Li- brary at Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 138 in the Imperial Lil)rary at Vienna, - - - - — 486 1477, folio, in the Library of Gottwie Mo- nastery, - - - - — 428 B'M. Hist. Venet. 1492, folio — copy purchased of IM. Fis- cheim at Munich, - - - - — 304 Bihlm Bohemica, 1488, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 257 Polonictt, 1663, folio — in the same Library, - - — 256 in the Royal Library at Stutt- gart, - - - - - iii. 137 copy purchased by the Author at Augsbourg, --.-__. iii. 228 in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 488 ^, 1599, folio — in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, ii. 347 Httngarica, 1565, folio — incomplete, in the King's Pri- vate Library at Stuttgart, _ . _ iii. 162-3 , 1626, folio, in the Public Librarv at Stras- bourg, - - - - . _ 58 Sclavonica,\b9>\, folio, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, — 139 , 1584, in the Public Library at Stras- bourg, - - - - - — 58 , 1587, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 257 Bible, La Sainte, 1669, folio; large paper copy in the Public Library of Caen, - - - - i. 336 Biblia — Historica, MS. versthus germanicis. Sec. xiv. — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, . . . iji. 152 Aurea, Lat. I. Zeiner, 1474, folio — iii the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, - - - — 375 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. Bidlia Pauperiim, block book : in the Royal Library at Parii?, , printed by Pfister, in the same, , block book, German, — in the Royal Li- brary at Strasbourg, - - - - , Lattne, first edition, in the same Library, , block book — one German, and two Latin Fol. Page. ii. 256 — 261 iii. 146 — 147 editions, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 283 , Lat. in the Library of Gottwic Monas- tery, - - - - - — 428 in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 531 Biography, Royal, of France — xvith century — magnifi- cent MS. in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 216 Blasphemateurs du nom de Dieu, an ancient morality, in 8vo., without date — discovered in the vicinity of Rouen, i. 159 — and fully described, with copious extracts, from the same unique copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 302-310 Blazonry of Arms, Book of — xivth century, with fac- simile portrait of Leopold de Sempuch — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, _ . . . iii. 474-5 Block books; at Paris, i. 255; at Stuttgart, iii. 146; at Mu- nich, iii. 279 ; at Landshut, in. 335 ; at Gottwic Monastery, iii. 428; at Vienna, iii. 531. Bocace, des Cas des Nobles Hommes & Femmes, MS. xvth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 212 two more MSS. of the same work, in the same Library, - - — 214 Boccace Rtiines des Nobles Hommes, Sfc. 1476, Colard Man- sion, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - — 280 Boccaccio II Decamerone, 1471, Valdarfer, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 279 , 1472, A. de Michaelibus, folio, in the Royal Library in Paris, - - - ibid* , in the Public Library at Nurem- berg, - _ - - Supplement, , 1476, Zarotics, folio, in the Impe- rial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 515 Deo Gracias, Sine Anno : forsan edit. /)nrt. in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 291 Nimphale, 1477, 4to., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, , - - - — 146 INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS rol. Page. Boccaccio f de Clar. Mid'ier. (1470, qu. ?) folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 507 Boetms, Kohurger, Germ. Lat., 1473, folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - iii. 231 , F. Johannes, 1474, 4to., in the Library of Ste. Genevieve at Paris, - - ii. 348 Bonaventuree Papee Medit. Fit. Ckristi, 1468, G. Zeiner, in the Library of Gott^\^c Monastery, - - iii. 431 Bonifacii Papa Libr. Decret. 1465, folio, upon vkllum, in the Library of Molk Monastery, - - - — 411 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 507 , UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Nurem- berg, - Supplement, xxv Bonne Fie, ou Madenie, Chambery, 1485, folio, in the Im- perial Lil^rary at Vienna, - - — 525 Brandt Navis Stult. Germ., 1499, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 526 Breviaire d'Amours, MS. xinth century, with copper plate fac-simile, in the Imjierial Library at Vienna, - — 477-480 Breviaire de Belleville, MS., xivth centiu-y, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 174-6 Breviary of John Duke of Bedford, MS. xvth century — in the Royal Library at Paris — wth copper plate fac-simile of a portion of the Adoration of the Magi, from the same, ii. 176-185 Breviaire de M. de Monmorency, MS. xvith century — in the Emperor of Austria's private collection at Vienna - iii. 592 Breviarium, sen de duUis Casibus in Missa: no date, &c., in the Public Library at Strasbourg - - - — 63 , Teutonic^, 4to.,^uPON vellum, copy purchased of M. Fischeim, at Munich, - - - — 304 Breviarium Eccl. Liss. MS.; in the Public Library at Caen i. 334 Breydenbach Itinerarium Lat. 1486, folio, in the library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xi. , Itineraire, 1488, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - , - - iii. 526 Brut d' Anglettere, MS. xivth century — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 477 Buda;i Comment, in Ling. Gr. 1529, folio — Francis 1st. copy, UPON vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 295 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. :! Vol. Page. BurchieUo Sonetti, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - iii. 516 Burtrio, Anthon. de, Adam Rot, 1472, folio, in the library of Clostemeuburg Monastery, - - iii. 617 C. Cadeait des Muses, - - - ii. 53 Ccesar, 1469, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 282 , in the Mazarine Library, - - ii. 367 , in the Public Library at Munich, - iii, 290 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library, - iii. 494 ,1471. ./^w.?o«, in the library of Gijttwic Monastery, iii. 430 -^ , 1472. S. and Pannartz, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 494 Calderi Opus Concilior. Adam Rot. 1472. Folio, in the library of Clostemeuburg Monastery, - - — 617 Calendarium, MS., xvith century in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 269 , Regiomontanl, block book, in the Public Library at Munich, - - . _ 286 Cancionero General, 1566, 8vo., 1573, 1580, 8vo., at Rouen, i. 153 Caratzullus, De Tim. Div. Jiidic. Arnold de Bruxella, 1473, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 507 Cast'ille et Artus d'Algarbe, 1587. 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris - - - ii. 327. Catichisme des Amans, - - i. 140 , h V usage des grandes filles pour itre marines - — xb\d. Caterina, da Sienna, 1477, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 517 , de Senis, 1500, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 315 CathoUcon, 1460, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, > - - - — 264 , in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - iii. 290 , G. Zeiner, 1469, folio, upon vellum, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 291 , in the Monastic Library of Chremsminster, - - - — 374 , UPON VELLUM, in the Monastic Library of Giittwic, - - - — 428 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 507 xvi INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. CathoUcon, 1489, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - i. 178 , without date, &c., in the Public Library at Strasbourg, . _ . jii. 63 , u'Uhout date, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 607 Catonts Ethica, 14/7, folio, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, — 164 , (I. Zeiner) no date, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 63 Catullus, Tibullus, Properthis, 1472, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 282 — , in the Mazarine Libran% — 367 — , in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 67 — — , 1473, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 494 Cawton, books printed by, in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 276-8-322 , m the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii. 632 Celestina Commedia de, Anvcrs, 18mo., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ^ - - - ii. 332 Chaucer's Booh of Fame, CuMon, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ... jii. 532 Chess, Game of, metrical German version of, MS., sec. xv., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - — 154 Chevalier Delibre, 1488, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 526 Chevalier au Lion, MS., 1470, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 165 Chivalry; see Tournaments. Chretien de Meckel, Cat. des Tableaux dc la Galerie imp. et roy. de Vienne, 1781, 8vo., - - — 673 Chronique de Louis XL, MS., xvith century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii, 480 Chronicon Pontificum, 1474, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - . — 507 — — — Foresii, Lat. 1474, folio, printed by Gote, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - — 59 Hungariee, 1485, 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - - — 229 Ckronicon Norimhergense, 1493, folio, quoted, or referred to, iii. 219, 237, 356, 636, Supplement, ix. AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xv FoJ. Page. Chronicon Gottwicense, 1732, folio, 2 vols., some account of this rare and valuable work, - - iii. 436-7 , referred to, - — 356 Chrysoloras Eroiemata, Gr. edit. prin. 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 509 Chrysostomi Comment., Gr. 1529, folio, copy of Diane de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen, - - i. 338 Cicero de Officiis, 1465, 4to., upon vellum, from a private collection in the Vosges, now in that of the Rev. H. Drury, iii. 70. , 1465, 4to., two copies upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 494 -, 1466, 4to., upon paper, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - - ii. 367 , 1466, 4to., UPON vellum, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - iii. 140 , 1466, 4to., UPON VELLUM, in the same collection, - - - — ihid. -, {Aldus), 8vo., UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 312 -, Epistolcs ad Familiares, 1467, folio, Cardinal Bes- sarion's copy, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - iii. 495 , 1469, S. and Pannartz, folio, in the same Library, - - - — ibid. , 1469, S. and Pannartz, folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - — 228 ■ , 1469, /. de Spira, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - — 140 , 1488, in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 177 , 1502, Aldus, 8vo., upon vellum, in the possession of INI. Renouard, bookseller, - - ii. 395 Cicero, de Orator e, Monast. Soubiac, folio, in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, at Paris, - - ii. 346 , F. de Spira, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbotirg, - - - iii. 67 , in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - — 496 , Opera Philosophica, Ulric Han, folio, in the Public Library at IVIunich, - - - — 290 — — , in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - — 495 xviii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. Cicero, Opera Philosophica, typ. Ausonii, 1472, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery - - iii. 431 , De Natiira Deorum, V. de Spira, 1471, folio, in the Mazarine Library, at Paris, - - ii. 367 , Rhetorica Fetus, Jenson, 1470, folio, upon vellum. in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris, - - — 348 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 496 Orationes, S. and Pannartz, 1471, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 496 , Valdarfer, 1471, folio, upon vellum. (wanting one leaf) in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 295 , perfect vellum copy, in the possession of Mr. Renouard, bookseller, - - — 394 , 1519, Aldus, 8vo., upon velli'm, first volume only, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 312 , perfect copy, upon vellum, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, - - ii. 351 , Pedianjr Comment, und cum Trapezunt. de art. Cirer. orat. (/. de Colonia) 1477, folio, in the Public Library at Strasboiu*g, • - - iii. 67 , Opera Omnia, 1498, folio, 4 vols., in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, at Paris, - - ii. 349 , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - — 496 , 1534, Giunta, folio, singular copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 317 Cid, el Caralero, 1627, 4to., in the Library of the Ai-senal, at Paris : bound with Set/s Romances del Cid Ruy Diaz de Bevar, 1627, 4to. - - - ii. 330 Cite de Dieu, IMS., in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 204-209 Cite des Dames, {Vcrard) folio, upon vellum, in the Impe- rial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 526 Clement. Pap. Constit. 1468, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienmi, - - — 508 Compendium Morale, folio, upon vellum, unique copy, late in the possession of the Baron Derschau, at Niu-emberg, Supplement, xxxiv. Confessional e, Arnoh'i's, 1473, 4to., in the library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - iii. 430-1 CosTENTix Dr, MS., in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 334 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xix rol. Page. Cotman, Mr., character of his Anglo-Norman Antiquities, preface, p. viii. See General Index, Coustumier Grand, de Normandie, in the Public Library at _, , . TVT J - - i. 396 St. Lo, in Normandy, CouTANCES, MS., biographical details connected with, in the Public Library at Caen, - - ~~ Coutumes Anciennes, 1672, 12mo. at Caen, - - Crastoni Lexicon, 1481, Gr. and Lat., folio, in the Library of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - ■ "^- , Gr. and Lat., 1499, folio, in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, Supplement, xi Cronica del Cid. Seville, 4to., in the Imperial Library at ,,. . - — 527 Vienna, Cronica del ret/ Don Juan, Seville, 1563, 4to., copy pur- chased of Mr. Fischeim, at Munich, - - — 304 Cronique de France, 1493, Ferard, upon vellum, in the -,, 1 T -u 4. T> • - ii. 284 Royal Library at Pans, 1 de Florimont, 1529, 4to. - in the Library of the 335 Arsenal at Paris, de Cleriadus, 1529, 4to.,-in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, D. Daigremont et Vivian, 1538, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal, at Paris, - * ~ Dance of Death, MS., xvith wood cuts, in the Public Library ^ ruT • I, - - "i- 2/8-9 of Munich, Dante, Numeister, 1472, folio, in the Mazarine Library „ . . - ii. 368 at Pans, - - " in the Imperial Library ,„ . - iii. 518 at v lenna, Petrus Adam, 1472, folio, in the Library of Ste. .. Ti . - - ii- 348 Genevifeve, at Pans, , Neapoli, Tuppi, folio, in the Royal Library o / - - iii- 144 at Stuttgart, - . ^ .r , Milan, 1478, with the comments ot G. 1 u- zago, folio, in the same collection, - - — t i . 1481, folio, imperfect copy, in the Public Lil)rary ' , . - iii. 231 at Augsbourg . , perfect copy, with twenty copper plates. 091 in the Public Library at Munich, XX INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. Dante, 1481, folio, with xx, copper-plates, in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - iii. 518 Dasypodius Conrad, his treatise on the clock in Strasbourg Cathedral, - - - - - — 33 Datti Elegantiolee, cum quibusd. uliis opusc. gratnmat., 4to. no date, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - — 141 Decor Puellarum, Jenson, 1461, 4to., in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - - — 518 Defemio Immac. Concept. B. F. M. 14/0, block book, in the Public Library at Munich, - - - — 286 De Fide Concubinarum in Sacerdot. 4to., late in the possession of M. Koch, of Manheim, Supplement, Ivi. Delphin Classics, fine set of, in the library of Chrerasminster Monastery, - - - - — 376 Demosthenes, Gr., 1504, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 179 Der Feis Ritter, 1514, folio, unique copy, in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - - iii. 337 Dictionar'mm Pauper urn. Colon. 1504, 8vo., copy purchased ofM. Fischeim, at Miviich, - - . _ 304 Dion Cassiiis, 1648, Gr. folio, edit, prin., Diane de Poictiers copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 316-7 Dio Chrysostom. de Regno, Faldarfer, 4to., upon vellum, in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna, - iii. 593 Dionysius Halicarnassensis, Gr., 1546, folio, Diane de Poic- tiers' copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 317 DioscoRiDES, Gr^ce, MS., vith century, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, _ . _ . . iii. 471-3 DlVERTISSMENTS TOUCHANT LA GUERRE, MS., in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 334 Doolin de Mayence, Paris, Bonfons, 4to. in the Library of the Arsenal, - - _ _ - - ii. 339 Donatxis ; several early editions of, in the Public Library at Munich, ... - - iii. 294 , 4to. — (fiamler) in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, - Supplement, x Duns Scotus, I. de Rheno, 1473, folio — in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, .... iii. 431 Durandi Rationale, 1459, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 255 _ ^ in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ...... iii, 508 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. x Vol. Page. Durandl Rationale, 1459, folio, in the Public Library at Nu- remberg, .... Supplement, — xxv , 1474, /. Zeiner, folio, in the Library of Chremsminster jMonasterj% .... jii. 375 , Without Date, Lltt. R. in the Public Li- brary at Strasbourg, - - - - — 63 Speculum Judlciale, Hussner, 1473, folio — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 59 E. EcHECs Ajioreux, RIS. folio — with copper-plate fac-simile — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 209 Echec Jeu de,{Verard) no date — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - — 286 Ein mdzlich buchUn, Augs. , 1498, 4to. — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, .... iii. 527 Erasmus ewpurgatus nuvta cens. Acad. Lovan. 1579, folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg. See Testament. Novum, 1516. — 234 EvANGELiA QuATUOR, Lat. MS. vith centiuy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 155-6 — VI nth century, in the Library of Chremsminster Monastery, - - iii. 377-9 ixth century, belonging to the Emperor Lotharius, with engraving of his portrait, ii. 163-166 ixth century — in the Public Library at Munich, ... iii. 259-261 ^ xith centiu-y, inthe same Li- brary, - - - - — 262 xth century, in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - — 333 xith century — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 148 — — — xvth century, in the Im- perial Library at Vienna - - - — 464 EvAXGELiuM Sti. Iohannis, MS. Lat. xith century, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 173 Evangelia cum EpistoUs : Ital. folio — in the Library of Gott- wic Monastery, - . - - iii. 428 EucUdes, 1482, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, » - - - . - ii. 294 , four varying copies of, in the Public Library at IMunich, . _ . iji, 290 xxii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS f^ol. Page Euripides, Gr., 1503, Aldus — upon vellum, in the Royal Li- brary at Paris, - - - - ii. 311 , Hecuba et Iphigenia in Aul. Gr. and Lat. 1507, 8vo. UPON VELLUM, in the same Library, - - — ibid. Eustathitis in Homerum, 1542, folio — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 292 — upon paper, in the same collection, - - - - - — 316 , 1559, folio, fine copy, upon paper, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - i- 337 Eutropius, 1471, Laver, folio — in the Kind's Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 162 Exhortation against the Turks (1472) in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - - — 282 Eyb. Margarita Poetica, 1472, folio — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - — 62 Fait de la Guerre, C. Mansion, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - ii. 280 Fazio Dita Mundi, 1474, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - . . - Hi. 518 Ficheti Rhetorica — Gering — 4to. — upon vellum, in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - - - — 509 Fiorio e Biancijiore, Bologna, 1480, folio — in the Library of the Arsenal, at Paris, - - - - ii. 331 Fierbras, 1486, folio — Prince Eugene's copy), in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 528 Flos Sanctorum, 1582, folio — in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 179 Fontaine Contes de la, copy of in the Chapter Library at Bayeux, - - - - - i. 372 Fortulitinm Fidei — folio — no date — in the Public Library at Mmiich : curious prmted advertisement in this copy, - iii. 295 Fressi II Quadriregio, 1481, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - _ _ - — 518 Fulgosii Anteros — 1496 — folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - - — 518 FuNERAiLLES DES Reines DE France, MS. folio — in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, - - — 692 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. x Fol. Pas-e. Galemts, Gr. 1525, folio, Aldus — large paper copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 314 F. Gaffurii Laud. Harm. Inst. RIS. xvith century — in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, - - - iii. 592 Gallen et Jaqueline, 1525, folio — in the Library of the Arsenal, at Paris, - - - - - ii. 333 Gallia Christiann, 1732, folio, in the Chapter Library at Bayeiix, - - - - - i. 373 Games of Chess, Caxton, folio, 2d. edit. — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - - iii. 532 Genesis — MS. of the ivth . century^'ragments of Chapters of, account of — with fac-simile Illuminations, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 457 Gerard, Comte de Nevers, 1526, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 335 Germanicar.Rer. Tres Script. Select. 1707, folio — ^referred to, iii. 353 curante A'idano, ^c. 1726 — referred to, - — 356-378 Gesta Romanorum, MS. xivth century, in the King's Pri- vate Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 163 Geyler, Nav'tc. Fat. 1511, 4to — in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - - - — 233 Gloria MuUerum, Jenson, 4to, — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 519 Godfrey of Boulogne, Caxton, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ^ - - - - — 532 Graal, St., MS. in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 223 Grammatica Rhythmica, 1466, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - - - — 264 Grandidier, Essai Hist, et Topog. sur I'EgUse CatMdrale de Strasbourg, 1782, 8vo. - - - iii. 17-18 Gratian Opus. Decret. Schoeffher, 1470, folio, upon vellum, in the Library of Gottvvic monastery,* - - iii. 428 , Schoeffher, 1472, folio, upon vellum, in the Library of Closterneuburg monastery, - - — 617 Gregorii Opera, Germ. 1483, folio, in the Library of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - - - — 193 * I doubt whether there be any such editinn, or whether the ensuing, by the same printer, be not here hiteiided. xxiv INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol Page Griseldis, Germ., 1483, 4to., wood cuts, in the Library of Pro- fessor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, ... iii. 194 — -, 1471, 4to., without cuts, in the same collec- tion. See Petrarcka. - - - — il/id. Guillaiane de Palerne, 1552, 4to., in the Library of the Arse- nal: another edition, 1634, 4to., - - ii. 337-8 GuUelmus de Saliceto, Ital. 1474, folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - - — 431 Guy de JFaricick, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - - ii. 326 Gyron Le Coiirtoys, no date, Verard, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 284 H. HartVieVs Chiromancy, block booh, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - ii. 266 , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii, 531 Haberlin, Analecta Medii jEci, 1734, 12mo., copy in the pos- session of Professor Siebgnkees at Strasbourg - iii. 80 Helayne La Belle, 1528, 4to., in the library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 339 Hector de Troye, Arnoullet, 4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - — 340 Herbarium Mogunt., 1484, 4to., in the Public Library at Caen, i. 325 Hermann, Notices Historiques, Statistiques, et Litttraires sur la Fille de Strasbourg, - - - iii. 3, &c. Heures, printed by Fostre, fine copy of, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 336 Herodotus, Gr. 1502, Aldus, folio, large paper copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 316 HisTORiA B. M. ViRGiNis, MS., folio, xvth century, with engraving of the portrait of Louisa of Savoy, therefrom, in the Public Library' at Paris, - - - - ii. 186-188 ■ , block hook, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 266 — — , in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - - - - — 146 , in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - iii. 286 , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 531 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxv F'ol. Page. HistoricB Augusta Scriptores, 14/5, folio, P. de Lavagna, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - "»• ^7 — , Aldus,\b2\, 8V0., UPON VEL- LUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - "• 3^2 Historia de Calumnia novercali, 1490, 4to., in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - - »"• ^30 HisTOiRE RoMAiNE, MS., xvth ccntury, folio, 3 vols., in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - "• ^16 Homeri Opera, Gr., 1488, folio, uncut, in the Royal Library ,r, . . - - ii. 283 at Pans, , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ----- "»• "^^^ -, in the Public Library at Nu- remberg, - - - Supplement, xxvi. , No date, Aldus, 8vo., upon vellum, in the • • oi 1 Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. on -, UPON VELLUM, in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, - - - ii. 350 , 1808, Bodoni, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 283 _, Batrachomyomachia, Gr. 4to., edit. prin. in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - ^- ^^^ HoR/E B. M. ViRGiNis, MS., 8vo., in the Royal Library at „ . . . . ii. 183 Pans, -, folio, belonging to Ann of Brit- tany, mth copperplate engraving of her portrait therefrom, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 188-201 , belonging to Pope Paul III. in the T-v . . - ii. 202 same Library, — , MS., xvth century, in the Royal Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - lu. 160 , 8vo., in the Emperor's private collection at Vienna, - - - "^- ^^^ , Stl Ludovici, MS,, xiiith century, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, "• ^^4 , Gr. 1497, 12mo. printed by Aldus, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 248-313 •, purchase of a copy from Mr. Stbger, at Munich, - - - ""• 299-302 -, missing in the Public Library at Land- shut, - - - . — 331 D xxvi INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. HoRATius, MS., xiith century, in the Library of Molk Mo- nastery, - - - - - iii- 412 — , Edit. prin. 4to., in the Public Library at Augs- bourg, - - - - ~" 228 , 1492-8, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - i. 179 -, 1498, folio, in the Public Library at Stras- bourg, _ . . - iii. 68 — ■■ , 1601, Aldus, 8vo., UPON vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 312 — •, UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, - - - iii. 296 Horloge de Sapience, Vemrd, 1493, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 285 HoRTUs Deliciarum, MS., xiith century, in the Public Li- brary at Strasbourg, - - - iii- 52 HoKTULUs Anim«, MS., xvth century— mth five fac-siraile copper plate engravings therefrom, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ... - . . _ 467-471 ■, 1498, l!^o., in the King's Private Li- brary at Stuttgart, - - - — 162 Rosarum, §r., 1499, 8vo,, in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - - - — 233 Huet, Demonstrat. Evang. 1690, (1679?) folio, unique copy in the Public Library at Caen, - - - i. 337 Huon de Bourdeaux, four editions of, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 333 I. Isocrates, Gr., Aldus, 1534, folio, large paper copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 314 Jason, Roman de, printed by Caxton, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - . _ 250 , same edition, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris - - - - - — 322 lehau de Saintrk, Bonfons, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - — 336 Paris, Bonfons, no date, 4to., in the same col- lection, - - - - - — 337 , Paris, 1600, 4to., in the same, - — ibid. Jerome, St., Vie, Mort, et Miracles de, MS., xvth cen- tury, in the Royal Library of Stuttgart, - - - iii. 153 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxi Vol. Page. Jeronimi Epistolee, 1468, S. and Pannartz, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - i. 1/6 , UPON VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, .... iii. 488 , 1470, S. and Pan. folio, in the Li- brary of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - — 617 , in the Public Library at Nuremberg, - . . Supplement, xxv. , 1470, Schoeffher, in the Public Li- brary at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 61 , Mentelin, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - — 62 • , in the Public Library at Nuremberg, - - Supplement, xxv. , Parmce, 1480, folio, in the Public Library at Augsbourg, - - iii. 228 Josephus, Lat., 1470, Schuzler, folio, two copies, somewhat diflfering from each other, in the library of Professor Vee- senmeyer, at Ulm, - - - - - — 193 , 1480, folio, in the Library of the Monastery of St. Floriau, - - - . . _ 390 , Gallic^, 1492, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 628 J our dam de Blave, Paris, Chretien, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - ii. 339 Jouvencel le, 1497, f erard, folio, upon vellum, in the Imperial Libraiy at Vienna, . . _ iii. 528 Justinus, 1479, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - i. 177 Juvenalis, folio, F. de Spira, edit. prin. in the Public Li- brary at Strasbourg, - _ . iii. 68 • — ■ , Ulric Han, typ. grand, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 496 • — , 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 334 , /. de Fivizano, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 497 K. Kentzinger, Documens Historiques relatifs d, Vhistoire de France, tires des Archives de la Fille de Strasbourg, - iii. 9 jfxvui INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS rol. Pa^e. L. Lactantii Institutiones, 1465, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 262 , in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, - - - — 345 — — — , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - 489 , 1470, S. and Pannartz, folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, ... 367 , 1478, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - ... iii. 64 ■, Rostoch, 1476, UPON vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 489 Lancelot du Lac, MS., xivth century, in the Royal Li- brary at Paris, ii. 217: another MS. of about the same period, in the same Library, ii. 219 : another MS. in the same library, - - - ii. 220 , 1488, ^Ferard, folio, in the Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, - - - iii. 628 , 1494, Verard, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 284 , 1496, Verard, folio, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library, at Vienna, - - - iii. 528 Lascaris Gram. Grcec. 1476, 4to., in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - ii. 281 Laurentius Falla, Jenson, 1471, folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, .... iii. 43I Leges Bavaric^, MS., xiiith century, in the Public Li- brary at Landshut, - - - - — 334 Legenda Aurea, (seu Sanctorum) Ital. Jenson, 1476, folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - - - ii. 365-6 , UPON vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, _ . . . . iii. 519 — , 1486, folio — in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 177 • , 1475, Gering, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - - — 334 Leonis Papas Sermones, 1470, folio, in the possession of M. Le Prevost, at Rouen, - - - — 163 Les Deux Amans, Verard, 1493, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - . . iii. 528 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxix rol. Page. Liber Generationis Ies. Xti. MS. viith century: in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 172 Liber Modorum signtjicandi, 1480, St. Albans, — in the Royal library at Paris, - - - - — 278 Liber Moralisat. Bibl. 1474, Ulm, folio — copy purchased of M. Fischein, at IMimich, - - - iii. 304 Liber Nanceidos, 1518, folio; copy of, \vith ms. notes of Bochart, in the Public Library at Caen, - - i. 337 , two copies of, one upon large paper, in the Public Library at Nancy, - - ii- 543 Liber Precum, cum not. Sf cant. MS. pervet. in the Royal Li- brary at Paris, - - - - — 173 , MS. xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich, ... - - iii. 272 Liber Regum, seu Fita Davidis — block book — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 531 Life of Christ, block book— in the Public Library at Munich, iii. 279 Ligurini Poet. clar. 1507, folio — in the Minster Library at Ulm, - - - - . — 187 Littleton's Tenures, Lettou, &c. folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 532 Liturgia Suecance Ecclesiee, 1576, folio— in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 324 Livius, MS. xvth century — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, . . - - - iii. 473 , 1469, folio, — in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 274 , — in the Public Library at Munich, - iii. 290 , 1470, y. de Spira, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 275 upon paper, in the same Library, - - - - - — 276 in the Library of Closter- neuburg Monastery, - - - - iii- 616 , 1472, S. and Pann., folio, in the same Collection, - — 276 LivRE HiSTORiAL, MS. Auct. B. du Guesclin ; in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - i. 174-5 Lombardi Petri Sentent. {Eggesteyn) , folio, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - - iii. 617 Lucas Cranach, his Book of Prayers, with original drawings by, in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 273 INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Lucanus, 1469, folio — in the Public Library at Munich, , 1475, folio. cum comment. Omniboni — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, _ . _ , typ. Gering, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, Luciani, Opera, Gr. 1496, folio — fine copy, in the possession of M. Renouard, at Paris, - - - . , 1503, Aldus, folio — large paper copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - . , Opusc. Qtt^d. Lai. 1494 — 4to. — upon Vol. Page. iii. 290 — 141 i. 334 ii. 396 — 316 iii. 497 VELLUM, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, Lucretius, 1486, folio — in the King's Private Collection at Stuttgart, - - - - - — 162 ■ in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 497 , T. de Ragas., 1495, 4to. — in the same Library, — 498 • , Aldus, 1500, 4to. — in the same Library, - — ibid. , Aldus, 1515, Svo, — UPON vellum, (supposed to be unique) in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 312 Liictiis Christianorum , Jenson, 4to. — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, -^ - - - iii. 520 Liidolphiis Vita Christi {Eggestepi), 1474, folio, in the Public Library at Nancy, - - - - ii. 544 De Terra Sancta, &c. 4to. — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, _ . . _ . iji. 509 Lyra Nic. de itiBiblia, 1471-2 ; one volume of, at Caen, - i. 333 M. Mahrian, 1625, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ii. 334 Macrobius, 1472, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii. 498 Maguelone, La Belle, 1492, Trepperel, 4to. — in the Imperial Library, at Vienna, - - - - — 628 Mains, de propriet. prise, verb. 1477, folio — B. de Colonia — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 64 Mammotrectus, Schoeffher, 1470 — folio — upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 509 in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - - — 617 , H. de Helie, 14/0, folio — in the Public Li- brary at Landshut, - - - - — 335 Mancinellus, de modo Scribendi, 1499, 4to. — in the Library of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulni, - - — 194 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxs Fol. Page. Mandeville, MS. German — 1471 — in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, . . - - iii. 155 Manilius, 1474, folio, — in the King's Private Library at Stutt- gart, - - - - - — 162 Manipulus Curatorum, 1473, folio, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - - i. 176 Marco Polo, Germ. 1477, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 529 MartiuUs, 1475, folio — in the Library of a Capuchin Monas- tery, near Vienna, - - - - — 621 ■ {Laver) folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 498 , Aldus, 1502, 8vo. two copies upon vellum. in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 312 Mayni Iasonis Epitalamion, MS. 4to. — in the Emperor's Private Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 592 Mayster of Sentence, Caxton, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 532 Meinart, St. Life of, block book : in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - - — 285 Melusina, Historie von der. Germ, no date, folio, in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 164 Melushie, P. Le Noir,Ato. — in the Library of the Arsenal, - ii. 339 Memoirs of the Transactions of the Society of Belles Lettres, &o. at Rouen, vol. i. page 181 : of a similar ^ocitty at Caen, i. 308 Mer des Histoires, 1488, folio; in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - - i. 178 Messer Nobile Socio, Miserie de Ii Amunte di, 1533, 4to. in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - ii. 327 Menrin Fits d'Oger,. Paris, Bonfons, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 339 Milles et Amys, Verard, no date, folio — upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 285 — , Rouen, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at ditto, - - - - - — 332 Mirabilia Urbis Roma, block book, — in the Public Library at Munich, - .... iii. 284 MissALE, MS. (Sti. Guthlaci) xith century, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - i. 165-8 xjvth century, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 152 xxxii INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS. Vol. Page. MissALE, MS. xvth century, two in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - . - . iii. 152 of Charles the Bold, xvth century — in the Im- peria Library at Vienna, with fac-simile, - - — 591 xvth century, — in the Public Library at Mu- nich, - - - - — 270 , 8vo. — belonging to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the Public Library of Landshut, - - — 334 Herbipolense (1479), folio, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 490 , Reyser, folio — in the King's Pri- vate Library at Stuttgart, - - - — 163 -, Fenet. 1488, folio — upon vellum. in the Emperor's Private Collection at Vienna, - — 594 Pro Patav. EccL Ritu, 1494, folio, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, - - — 621 Rothomaffense, 1499, folio, in the possession of M. Le Prevost at Rouen, - - - ' - i. 153 #, copies, UPON vellum, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - i. 178 Mozarabicum, 1500, folio — with the Breviary 1502, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - ii. 323 ■— in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, - - - - - — 352 in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 489 Parisiense, 1522, folio — upon vellum, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii, 323 Missa Defunctorum, Vtennee, 1499, folio, in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, - - iii. 621 La/?««, 1557, 8vo., in the Library of the Arsenal, - ii. 322 Montaigne's Essays, 1635, folio, large paper, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i, 337 Monte Sancto di Die, 1477, folio, — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - - ii. 289 , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 520 Moreri des Normans, par I. A. Guiat, MS. in the Public Li- brary at Caen, - - . - i. 335 Morgant le Giant, 1650, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal, at Paris, - - . . - ii. 334 XXXIU FoL Page. 375 ii. 322 337 — 429 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. Mori Thomce Opera, edit. Lovan. 1566, folio, in the Library of the Lyc^e at Bayeux, - - - - Morlini Novellce Comwdiee, &c. 1520, 4to. — iu the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, _ . _ Munsteri Cosmographia, 1555, folio, copy of, belonging to D. de Poictiers, in the Public Library at Caen, Mureti Disticha, Lat. and Fr. chap book, at Vire, N. Nanceidos Liber: see Liber Nanceidos. Nef des Folz du Monde, Verard, no date, folio — upon VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 288 — , Marnef, 1497, folio — upon vel- lum, in the same library, ... ilH, Nef des Dames, Arnollet, h Lyon, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, ... . _ — 327-9 Niger P., contra perfidos Judceos, 1475, folio — in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, ... Hi. ] 64 Nonius Marcellus, 1471, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 509 in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - - - — 430 Nonnus, Gr. Aldus, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 492 Normandy, three folio volumes of miscellaneous MSS. and illustrations, relating to, in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 231-244 , the same number of volumes of Engravings and printed Pieces, relating to — in the same Collection, - — 232-234 Nova Statuta, MacIiUnia, in the Royal Library at Paris, - — 278 Novelas, por de Maria Zayas, 1637, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - — 327 Amorosas, 1624, 4to. in the same Library, - - — ibid, ,0. Officium B. M- Virginis, MS., xvth century, in the Empe- ror's private collection at Vienna, - - - iii. 591 , MS., xvith century, in the Pub- lic Library at Munich, - - - — 270 , in the same library, - — 271 Ogier le Danois, 1525, folio, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - . . . . ii. 333 Olivier Basselin ;^ See General Index, B xxxiv INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Vol. Page. Ossian, copy of, with drawing of Isa1)ey, in the King's Private Library at Paris, - - - ii. 3/6 Ovidius moralisatus, MS., xvth century in the Public Li- brary at Rouen, - - - - i. 173 Ovidii Opera Omnia, Azognidi, 1471, wanting two leaves, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 296 —, Fasti, Azoguidi, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii. 498 Opera Omnia, S. and Pannartz, 1471, in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 498 , Epistola et Fasti, folio, in the same collection, - — ibid. -, Metamorph. Edit. Bernard., 1657, 8vo., in a private collection at Bayeux, - - - - i. 367 P. Paris et J'ienne, Paris, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 336 Parole Devote de Uanima, Jenson. 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 521 Pentateuch, Hehr. 149 f, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, See also Genesis, ante. - - - ii. 260 Petrarcha, MS. xvth century, in the Library of Chrems- minster Monastery, . _ . . iii. 379 Petrarcha Sonetti, 1470, Prince Eugene's copy in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - - - — 521 , 1473, Zarotus, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 522 , Jenson, 1473, folio, in the Imperial Li])rary at Vienna, - - - - — ibid. , folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - — 429 , L. Achates, 1474, folio, in the same Library, . . . _ _ ibid. , Comment. Borstii, Bologn., 1475, folio. two copies in the Imperial Library at Vienna, of which one belonged to Prince Eugene, - - - — 522 — , Bolog., 1476, folio, {Asoguidi*) with the comment of PhUelphus, in the Royal Library at Stutt- gart, - . . _ _ iii. 145 * In the page refened to, I have conjectured it to be printed by Ulric Han or Reisinger. To these names, I add the above. AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xxxv Vol, Page. Petrarcha Sonetti, Con comment., T. Philelfo, 1478, folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery - - "i- 429 , Aldus, 1501, 8vo., UPON vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - " "• ^^^ , 1614, Bvo., UPON VELLUM, in the pos- session of M. Renouard, bookseller, - - — 395 , Giitnta, 1515, Bvo., upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - 313 '. , Aldtis, 1521, 12mo., in the King's Private Li- brary at Stuttgart, - - - - iii. 165 , Hist. Griseldis, Lat., 1473, folio,— Prince Eu- gene's copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna - — 510 _^ , Germ., 1473, folio, in the Li- brary of Professor Veesenmeyer, at Ulm, - - 194 , De Cas. Firor. Illustr. ltd., 1476, folio, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - — 429 Phalaris Epist., 1471, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 510 , Ulric Han, folio, in the same collection, — 511 Philostratus, Lat., MS., xvth century in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - 473 Pierre de Provence et la belle Maguelonne, 1490, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - ii- 336 Pindarus, Gr., 1502, Aldi, 12mo., in the Library of the Monas- tery of St. Florian, - - - - iii- 390 Plautus, 1472, folio, edit. prin. in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - - - - ii- 367 . — — , in the Public Library at Strasbourg, iii. 64 , 1522, Aldus, 4to., Grolier's copy, apparently large ;9«/>er, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314 Plinius Senior, 1469, folio, one copy, upon vellum, and another upon paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - — 27 1 ' — . — , in the Library of Ste. Gene- vieve, - - - - - — 347 -, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, . - - - iii. 498 -, S. and Pannartz, 1470, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 499 -, Jenson, 1472, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library ^t Paris, - - - ii. 2r73 xxxvi INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Fol. Page. PUnhis Senior, Jenson, 1472, folio, upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, . _ . ill. 499 , upon paper, in the Li- brary of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - — 6I7 , ltd. 1476, Jenson, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris - - - ii. 273 , upon paper, in the same collection, - - - - — 274 • ■, upon paper in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 499 Plinkis Junior Epistolts, 1476, folio, in the Public Library of Strasbourg, - - - - - — 68 Plutnrchi Fitce Parallellcc, Ital., folio, Litt. R., in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - — ^1 , the same edition in the Monastic Library at Closterneuburg, - - - — 616 Phtarchi Opusculu Moralia, Gr., 1509. Aldus, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 292 Poems selected and print edaby a small party of English, Stras- bourg, ... - - iii. 97 PoetfB Gi'aci Principes, Gr., 1556, folio, large paper, De Thou's copy in the Royal Library at Paris, - — 317 Pogii Facetice, Monast. Euseb , folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - iii. 511 , Hist.Fiorent., 1476, folio, upon vellum and paper, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ' - - - — 522 PoLYBius, Gr., MS., sec. xvi., Diane de Poicders's copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 230 Polybius, Lttt., S. and Pannurtz, 1473, folio, in the Library of Closterneuburg Monastery, - - - iii. 616 Pompeius Festus, 1471, 4to., in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - . . _ 430 Porcheti Victoria, 1520, folio, upon vellum, in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - i. 179 Priscianus, 1470, V. de Spira, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 294 , upon paper, in the Library of Gottwic Monastery, - - - iii. 430 f in the Imperial Li- at Vienna, - - - - - — 511 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xx? Vol. Page. Priscianus, Ulric Han, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, iii. 512 , Aldus, 1527, 8vo., Grolier's copy, upon large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 314 — — ; UPON VELLUM, in the Library of Ste. Genevieve, - - - — 348 Prosperi Liber, {H. Glim) 4to. — in the Public Library at Munich, . . . _ . iii. 293 PsALTERiuM, MS., ixth ccutury, of Charles the Bald; in the Public Library at Paris; - - - - ii. 163 , Sti. Ludovici, xiiith century, in the same library, - - - - - - — 166-168 , xith century, in the Royal Library at Stutt- gart, - - - - - iii. 147 , xiith centiuy, in the same Collection, - — 149 , xiith century, in the Royal Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - - - — 158-9 , xiith century, in the Public Library at Mu- nich, - - - - - - 263 , wth most splendid illuminations, of the xvith century, in the same library, Lat. 1457, Fust and Schoeffher, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii 250 , in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 490 1459, folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 250 ■- ■ 1490, folio, SchoeffJier, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 251 1502, folio, Schoeffher, in the same library, - - - - — 252 '■ without date — Creusner — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, ... iii. 491 ■■ ; folio, in the same Collection, - - - - — ibid. , Lips. 1486, 4to. — in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - - - — 335 , Germanic^, 4to. — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 491 Ptolem^us, Lat. MS. folio — in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 214 Ptolemesns, Lat. 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Stras- bourg, ' - - - - - — 59 xxxviii JNDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Vol. Page. PtolemtBus, Lat., 1462, folio, in the Public Library at Munich, iii. 290 ^ jjj |-}jg Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - ..- — 512 Pulci II Driadeo, 1481, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 523 , Pistole, 1492, in the same Library, - - ibid. , Morgante Maggiore, 1500, 4to., in the same Library, iii. 524 Q. Quatttor Novissimorum, Germ., 1473, folio, in the Library of Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, - - - — 194 Quintilianus, I. de Lignam. 1470, folio, in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, at Paris, - - - ii. 348 , 1471, Jenson, folio, in the Public Library at Nuremberg, _ . . Supplement, xxv Quintus Curtiits, Laver, folio, in the Library of Gbttwic Monastery, . - . _ _ iii. 431 ir R. Rabanus Maurus, de Universo, 8fC., Litt. R., no date, folio, in the Public Library at Strasbourg-, - - iii. 69 Raderi Bavaria Sancta, 1615, &c., folio, extracts, with fac- simile copper plates, from, - - - — 221-4 Ratdolt, specimens of the types from his press, in the Public Library at Munich, - - - - — 294 Recueildes Histoires de Troy e, printed by Caxton, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 247 , printed by Verard, upon vel- lum, in the same Library, - - - — 248 Regnars les, 8fc., Verard, 4to., Prince Eugene's copy in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 529 RegulcB Juris Canon. Adam Rot, 1472, folio, in the Impe- rial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 512 , Confitend. peccata sua. Ital., 1473, 4to., in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - - - _ — 524 Repertorium Statiit. Ord. Carth., 1510, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 325 Repertorium Vocabulor. Exquisit. Bertoldus, Basle, folio, no date, in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - iii. 142 Vol. Page. iii. 432 ii. 325 ib!d. i. 409 ii. 388 — 217-229 ii. 284-288 iii. 64-5,&c. — 263, &c. i. 337 ii. 224 _ 285 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. Repertorium, N. de Milis, 1475, folio, in the Library of Giitt- wic Monastery, - - Richard satis Peur, Janot, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - J Bonfons, no date, 4to., in the same Library, , chapbook, — at Rouen and Coutances, Robert le Diable, Janot, no date, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 326 Romancero General, 1492, folio, in the possession of Madame Debure, at Paris, - - - - Romances, MS., in the Royal Library at Paris, , printed, in the same Library, , in the Public Library at Strasbourg, , in the Public Library at Munich, Ronsurd, 1584, folio, in the Public Library at Caen, Rose Roman de la, MS. xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, ... , Verard, no date, upon vellum, in the Royal Library at Paris, Rossei opus elegans, Sfc, Pynson, 1523, 4to., the author's copy, afterwards that of Sir Thomas More, in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - iii. 337 Ruberto Quadragesimale, 1479, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - iii. 524 Sacramentarium, seu Missa Pap. Greg., MS., vith cen- tury, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - iii. 469 Sallustius, 4to., edit. prin. in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 499 , Gering, SfC, 4to., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 500 Sanchez de Matrim. Sacrum., copy in the chapter Library at Bayeux, i. 373, in the Library of the Lyc^e, at Bayeux, i. 374 Sannazarii Arcadia, 1514, Aldus, 8vo., Grolier's copy, on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314 Sannazarius de partu Firginis, Aldi, 1527, 12mo. in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, - - iii. 165 Saxoferrato Disputationes de — F. de Spira, 1472, folio, in the Royal Library at StuttgEirt, - - - — 143 y 1470, folio, in the Public Li- brary at Munich, - - - - — 292 xl INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS f^oK Puge. Sdguin, Histoire Militaire des Boca'im, quoted, i. 399; 423; sur I' histoire de P Industrie du Bocage en general, et de la ville de yire sa capitale en particuliere, 1810, 8vo., - i. 449 Servius in Firgilium, see flrgilius. Sevis G. de, Decretalia, 1472, folio, printed by Adam Rot, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - iii. 62 Sforziada La, 1480, folio, upon vellum, in the Royal L'- brary at Paris, - - - - ii. 290 Shyppe of Fools, 1509, 8vo., printed by W. de Worde, UPON VELLUM, in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 249 Sibils, &c., MS., xvth century, in the Public Library at Munich, - - - iii. 269 Silius Italicus, haver, 1471, folio, in the Mazarine Library at Paris, - - - ii. 367 , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - iii. 500 ■ , 8. andPannartz, 1471, folio, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 500 Songe du Ferdier, 1491,f«lio, in the Public Library at Rouen, i. 178 Speculum Hum Salv. bhck book, in the Royal Library at Paris, ii. 256 ^ , in the Royal Library at Stutt- gart, .... . iii 146 . , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 531 Spec. Hum. Salv. 1476, folio, printed hy Rio/tel, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - — 61 Spec. Fit. Hum. 1471, folio, G.Zeiner, in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - - — 62 Speculum Stultorum, no date, 4to., in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - - i. 336 Statins in usum Delphini, 4to., two copies, in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 323 , beautiful copy in the Library of Chremsmin- ster monastery, - - - iii. 376 Statutes of Rich. HI. Machlinia, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - ii. 278 Stella Meschiah, 1477, 4to., in the Public Library at Stras- bourg, .... - iii. 69 , in the King's Private Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 164 Stengelii Imag. Sanct. August. Sfc, et Monasteriologia, 1619-20, referred to, - - " - - — 224 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xli Vol Page. StengeB Momsteriologia, 1639>, Mio, quoted, - - iii. 378-9; 426 Strambotti—no date-^to., in the Public Library at Munich, — 293 Stephani, R. Bibl Lat., 1556, folio, sealed copy, in the Public Library at Augsboiu-g, - - - — 234 , H. Gloss. GrcEc. 1573, &c., ioXw — cum notis mss: Bocharti, copy of, in the Public Library at Caen, - i. 336 Successes y Prodigos de Amor, 1626, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 330 Suetonius 1. de Lignamine, 1470, folio— in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, at Paris, - - - — 348 , S. and Pannartz, 1470, folio— in the Imperial Library at Vienna, . - - - iii. 500 ^ Jenson, 1471, 4to.— in the same collection, - — ibid. -, Reisinger, 4to., — ivithout date, in the private royal collection at Stuttgart, - - - i"- ^^^ Siiidas, Or., 1499, folio— Lambecius's copy, in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - " ., copy in the Library of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, at Ratisbon, - Supplement, xi. , 1514, folio, Aldus— \dxge paper copy, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii. 316 Sylmi MneoR Epistolce, Koelhoff, folio— in the Public Li- Library at Strasbourg, - - - - i"- ^^ Sypperts de Finevaulx, Paris, no date, 4to.— in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 326 Tacitus, I. de Spira, folio, edit, prin., in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, - - - - - '"• '^^ , in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - — 500 Tasso, Gerusalemme Conquistata, the author's autograph— in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 482 Teatro Jesuitico, Coimbra, 1634, 4to., in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - ii. 322 Terentim, Mentelin, folio— in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 500 , Ulric Han, folio— in the Royal Library at Paris, — 291 ,/Jmm^er,folio— in the Royal Library at Stuttgart, iii. 140 , 1472, S. and Pannartz, folio, in the same Library, ibid. , C(es. and Stall, folio, in the same Library, - ibid. F xUi INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS Vol. Page. Terentius, Gerardingen, 1479, folio — in the Library of Pro- fessor Veesenmeyer, at Ului, . _ _ iii. 194 Testamentum Novum, Gallic^, (1478,) folio, copy purchased at Rouen, - - - - - ii. 81 , Holhindici et Russ., 1717, folio, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - — 258-260 , Bohemic^, Sec. xv — in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - . . iii. 492 , Greed, Erasmi, 1516, folio — three co- pies of, in the Public Library at Strasboiu'g,- - — 58 , copy of, in the Library of Mr. Haffner, at Strasbourg, - - - — 81 ■ , — in the King's Pri vate Library at Stuttgart, - - - - — 163 , R. Stepham, 1550, folio Diane de Poictiers's copy — in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - - -ii. 316 Tewrdanckhs, 1517, folio-* upon vellum, in the Library of Ste. Genevifeve, at Paris, - - - - ii. 352 , two copies of, in the Public Library at Munich, ... iii. 297 , ditto, in the Im- perial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 529 , in the Library of the Monastery of St. Florian, _ . . . iii. 391 — — , upon paper, in the possession of M. Traiteur, at Manheira, Supplement, Iv. Theocritus, Gr. 1493, folio — unique copy, upon large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - - ii 315 , Aldus, Gr. 1495, folio — in the Public Library at Rouen, - - - - - i. 178 Theophrastus, 1497, Gr. Aldus — Diane de Poictiers's copy, in the possession of M. Renouard at Paris, - - ii. 396 Thucydkle, Gourmont, folio, Ferard — upon vellum, in the Imperial Library at Vienna — Prince Eugene's copy, - iii. 530 Tibaldeo da Ferrara, 4to. Without date, — in the Imperial Li- bary at Vienna, - - - - — 625 TiTE-LivE, MS. folio — in the Royal Library at Paris. See Livius. - - - - ii. 215 Tityrell 4- Pfarizivnl, 1477, folio — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - - - iii. 65 AND OF PRINTED BOOKS. xliii Vol. Page. Titi/reU 8f Pfartzival, 1477, folio — in the Public Library at Landshut, - - - - - iii 335 ill the Library of the Mo- naster}' of St. Florian, - - - — 390 in the Library of Gott- \vic Monastery, - - - - - — 431 Tournaments, Book of, MS. xvth century — in the Royal Library at Paris, with copper-plate portrait of John Duke of Brittany, - - - - ii. 225 duplicate and more recent copy of, - - ... — 228 another IMS. of the same work, 8vo., - - - - - — 229 Tractatus de Venen'is, &c. 1473, 4to. — in the Library of Gott- wic Monastery, - - - - - iii. 432 de doctrina dicendi, %,c. : without date, &c. — in the Public Library at Strasbourg, - - - iii. 64 de Pietate Concil. Gen., 1480, folio, in the Impe- rial Library at Vienna, - - - - — 512 Trehisondt Parts, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris, - - - - - ii. 340 Tristan, MS., xivth century, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ' - - - — 220 , another MS. in the same Library, - - - - - — 221 . ^ a third MS. in the same library, - - . . - - — 222 -, Germ. Sec. xiii., in the Public Library at Munich, with wood-cut fac-similes, - - - - iii. 263-268 Gall. Sec. xiii., in the Imperial Library at Vienna, \vith copper-plate engraving, - - - — 475 , another MS. in the same Collec- tion, - - - - - — 476 Tristran, Verard, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, — 530 Trithemii Annales Hirsaug'ienses, 1690, folio — in the Library of the Monastery of Chremsminster, - - — 381 , in the Library of a Capuchin Monastery, near Vienna, - - - — 621 Troys filz de Roys, Paris, no date, 4to. — in the Library of the Arsenal, - - - - - ii. 335 xliv INDEX OF MANUSCRIPTS f^ol. Page. Tidly of Old Age, Caxton — in the Royal Library at Paris, - ii. 276 Tundali, Vmo, Germ. 4to. in the Library of Professor Veesen- meyer at Ulm, - - - - - iii. 194 Turner, Mr. Daii'son, Tour m Normandy, - Pref. x. Turrecremata I. de Meditationes, Ulric Han, 1467, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 613 — ■ — ^ •■ iu the Public Library at Nuremberg, - Supplement, xxiv. — , 1473, in the Library of Giittmc Monastery, - - - iii. 431 , the same edition in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - — 492 , In Lihrum Psalmor. Cracii impr. no date — in the Public Library at Munich, - - — 294 V. ' Valerius Maximus, MS.tevth century — in the Imperial Li- brary at Vienna, - - - - iii 473 , Mentelin, folio — two copies in the Pub- lic Library at Strasbourg, - - - — 6& — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - ' - - — 500 in the Royal Li- brary at Stuttgart, - - - - — 140 , F. de Spira, folio — in the Imperial Library at Vienna, - - - - - — 501 , Schoeffher, 1472, folio — upon VELLUM, in the same library, _ . _ , 1475, CtEs Sf Stol, folio — in the Public Library at Caen, - - - - i. 334 , Aldus, 1534, 8vo. Grolier's copy. on large paper, in the Royal Library at Paris, - - ii. 314 Valturius De Re Militari, 1472, folio — in the Imperial Library (Prince Eugene's copy) at Vienna, _ _ _ iii. 514 , Ital. Reisinger, folio — in the same Collection, - - . _ _ — md^ Faudevires : see Basselin, General Index. FzV y, ii. 236. Windows, painted, in the abbey of St. Ouen, i. 71i in the churches of Saints ixxvi INDEX OF PERSONS, &c. Vincent and Godard, at Rouen, i. 82-3 j in the church at Dreux, ii. 66 j iu the church at Toul, 535; in the cathedral at Strasboui-g, iii. 31 ; in the church attached to the Public Library at Strasbourg, iii. 49. Wirtemherg, late Queen of, description of her person and manners, at court, iii. 168, 170; her funeral, 175. Y. Young, Mr., Librarian to the Emperor of Austria, and Secretary to the Privy Council of State — ^his kind attention to the author, iii. 599. Z. . Zeiner, J. printer at Ulm, supposed place of his residence, iii. 192. [ Ixxvii ] ADDENDA. Vol. i. p. 309. The History of Caen by the Abbe de la Rue, has just appeared in two small octavo volumes (not quarto— as here specified — and as I had been previously informed) under the title of Essais Historiques sur la Ville de Caen ef son Arrondi^sement. Caen, 1820. With the exception of two or three indifferent plates of rehcs of sculpture, and of tiles, with armorial bearings, this work is entirely divested of ornaments. There are some useful historical details in it, taken from the examination of records and achives: but a History of Caen is yet a desidferatum. Vol. i. p. 444. The new edition of the Vaudevires of Oli- vier Basselin, here alluded to, has recently appeared under the editorial care of Mr. Lou:s Dubois, under the title of " Vaux-de- Vires d'Olivier Basselin, Po'eie Normandy de la Jin du xiv. Steele,^' &c. Poisson, Caen, 1821. 8vo. pp. 264: Papier ordin. 7 fr. Pap. velin 15 fr. Vol. ii. p. 59. Falaise. The wSabbath-preparation, and pro- cession therefrom, here recorded, denoted the celebration of the Fete Dieu. I happened to be at Paris, two years afterwards, on the celebration of the same fete ; and walked between the fa- mous Goblein tapestry, extended on either side, for at least 100 yards, towards the Louvre. The grandest procession in Paris, on that day, was from the Thuilleries to the parish church of St. Germains aux Auxerrois. The Duchesse d'Angouleme walked in this procession; and it happening to rain, several umbrellas, from the bystanders, were offered for her acceptance — but she de- cUned receiving one. These processions are moving in all parts of Paris, by times in the morning : but the people, generally speak- ing, heed them very little. Vol. ii. p. 313. The first Aldine Aristotle upon vellum. Not- withstanding I deferred to the opinion of Mr. Van Praet, and had even supposed, from the evidence here adduced, that there was no Ixxviii ADDENDA. copy of ihejirst volume of this edition upon vellum, yet it had al- ways appeared to me strange and unaccountable, that a printer, like Aldus, should have struck off copies vipon vellum, of the re- maining volumes of an edition, of which there had been no similar impressions taken of Xhejirst : and thereby rendering every mem- branaceous copy incomplete. It has at length turned out that there does exist a copy of the j^r*^ volume upon vellum : and the li- brary of New College, Oxford, boasts of this unique treasure in its way. This discovery, I learn, was made by the Rev. Mr. Gaisford, the Greek Professor of that University. It is probable that some accident had attended the impressions of ihejirst volume upon vel- lum; as it is otherwise impossible to account for its general non-ap- pearance. Vol.iii. 455. MSS. in the Imperial Library at Vienna. Inthexlvth number of the Classical Journal, for March 1 82 ! , there appears a very particular accoun;^ of the Theodosian Map, or Tabula Peuting-eriana, (it having belonged to an individual of the name of Desiderius Ignatius Peutinger, in 1714) the two Greek MSS. of Dioscorides, and some Greek MSS of Homer, &c. together with slighter notices of a few other similar curiosities. The author is Dr. Noehden. Supplement, p. xx, 7iote. The Shrine of St. Sebald. I am favoured by Mr. Boosey, jun. with a translation of that part of the Guide of Nuremberg, printed in the German language, which relates to this very curious and splendid shrine, and which is as follows : " The shrine of St. Sebald was began in 1 506 by Peter Fischer, and his five sons, and was finished on the 19th June 1519; it required one hundred and twenty hundred weight of metal, and cost twenty-six thousand four hundred guldens, which was paid by voluntary contributions. The part which is covered with gold and silver, is five feet ten inches long, and one foot seven inches broad inside the coffin. It was built in 1397, and cost five hundred and six guldens in gold. Fischer's work measures fifteen feet in height, eight feet seven inches in length, and four feet eight inches in breadth. It lias tJiis inscription upon it : " Peter Fischer, citizen of Nuremberg, per- ADDENDA. Ixxix formed this work with his sons, and brought it to a completion in the year 1519. To God alone is the praise, and to St Sebald, the heavenly prince, the honour, with the assistance of the charity of pious persons." liOpHoii : Printed by W. Buhner and W. Nicol, Cleveland-row, St. James's. CORRECTIONS. VOLUME I. page. line. for read: 67. 13. chou-. altar. 159. 21. Saint Palaye, Barbasan. 221. 12. vastly pretty. extremely picturesque 261. 4. Demetal, Darnetal. (This error has been hitroduced in the inscription of the copper-phite of the church so called.) 291. 1. ancients. so ancient. 11. Sne, five. .315. 20. a vastly. rather a 361. 20. 1712, ' 1753 408, 15. en bon point, embon point. 412. 32. librarian. bookseller, ji J//'i 7 * 0^«--'V VOLUME IL for read 62. last but 6. feature, featui'es. 122. 2. indea, iudea. 448. 17. Transdentals, Transcendentals. 457. 6. inventor, restorer. 467. the reference, to the " Opposite Plate" at the bottom of the page, is erroneous ; the head of Denon being introduced at page 459, after the previous leaf was cancelled. 478. 8. Marmontel, Montmartel. I VOLUME III. for read 67. 20. Lavargna, Lavagna. 68. 1.9. Attium, Attius. 74. 20. FUANCS, Franks. 228. 24. Fisner, Frisner. 285. 4. Meinrat. IMeinart, 464. 21. Vrwino, Vniverso. 512. last but 2. et. etc. S^: ^1 V University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library .froqi which it was borrowed. H- 005 793 290 7