UCSB LIBRARY SKETCH MAP or J-BarOholamt", Idin^ ? ' // .^ A ^o). ^ BLACK^S GUIDE TO THE COUNTY OF SUSSEX AND ITS WATEEIXG-PLACES SEVENTH EDITION ll^itl) fHa}), Cfjarts, nnti numerous lUooti aHngrabmgs E D I X B U R G H ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1886 The Editor will he glad to receive any notes or corrections from Tourists Ksing^ this Guide-book, Communications to be addressed to the Publishers. CONTENTS. Introduction — Dimensions and Divis ons, ind Genera 1 Aspect of the County . . vii-xxi Hastings and St. Leonards 1 A visit to Winchelsea and Rye 23 Pevensey .... 29 Eastbourne . 33 Lewes . 45 Brighton 80 Petworth 121 WortMng 127 Arundel . 133 Chichester 145 Goodwood 156 Index 169 Illtjstrationk . Thrmighout. Map . Em I of Vol. PKEFACE. The county of Sussex divides itself into two distinct lines or districts of travel and research — one along the northern and middle portions, amid the woodland scenery of St. Leonard's and Tilgate forests, near Horsham, or that which abounds in Ashdown forest and the lovely country south of Tunbridge Wells and East Grinstead ; — ^the other along the South Downs, whether below their escarpments towards the north, or along their slopes and cliffs coming down to the sea on the south. By far the best way of visiting the various scenes of interest is not to make any connected tour through the county, but — now that abundant facilities are offered by the network of railways — to fix on definite stopping-places, making them centres of operation for diverging excursions. In all the small towns of Sussex good, comfortable inns, with cleanliness, civility, and moderate charges, will be found — domestic hostelries — which are often to be preferred to the more pretentious hotels in the watering-places. The following wiU be found excellent central stations of this kind : — Pet WORTH, from whence can be visited the Great House with its galleries, Midhursjb and Cowdray, and the lovely hill scenery from Burton to Ladyholt on the Hampshire border. PREFACE. Chichestee, with Goodwood, Stanstead, Charlton forest, Bognor, and Boxgrove, at convenient distances. Arundel, with its castle and park, Amberley, Par- ham, Storrington, and a wide tract both of down and valley. Horsham, with St. Leonard's forest, exhibiting fine studies of wooded dells, rivulets, ruined towers, ancient village churches. Balcombe and Hayward's Heath, two railway stations with good small inns, in the very heart of the Wealden district, where some of the most interesting manor-houses may be seen — including those near Cuck- field northward ; Hurstpierpoint, Poynings, Danny, etc., towards the south. East Grinstead, one of the choicest spots in Sussex, giving ready access to Ashdown forest, Brambletye, Buck- hurst, etc., and rich in ancient residences and churches. Lewes, in the centre of the best Down scenery. Frant, for the old iron-working country, Eridge Castle, Bayham Abbey, Lamberhurst, and the forest district ; Mayfield, Brightling and its Down, and the fine views near Heathfield. Brighton and Worthing, and the adjacent sea-coast. Hastings, Pevensey, and Eastbourne ; Battle, with its sanguelac, mal-fosse, and the choir of its abbatial church — the spot of Harold's death ; Bodiam Castle ; Eye and Winchelsea; ©amber Castle, and the scenery of the coast. '\^ L-R^arBRooH: •> i^ ^^^^^^A.?^^: r T.;^^ ^ i,«^ ™l<- ^ ^r, /Sfl .f, ■}/_ ' .►» ^^ vu INTRODUCTION. L— DIMENSIONS AND DIVISIONS. The county of Sussex consists of an oblong territory, stretching along the southern coast of England. The line of its coast, following the indentations, is nearly ninety miles long ; the extreme length of the county in a straight line, from Ladyholt Park on the west, to the end of Kent Ditch on the east, is seventy-six miles ; while the extreme breadth, in a cross line from Tunbridge Wells on the north to Beachy Head on the SQuth, is twenty-seven miles. It contains 934,006 acres, and is inhabited by a population which, according to the census of 1881, amounted to 490,316; viz.. East Sussex, 359,114 ; West Sussex, 131,202. In 1851 it amounted only to 336,844 for the whole county. On the west, Sussex is bounded by Hampshire ; on the north, north-east, and east, by Surrey and Kent ; on the south, by the English Channel. The whole district is divided into 6 rapes, 6 6 hundreds, and 324 parishes, containing 1 city and 21 market towns, viz. : — Rapes. Hundreds. Parishes. ( CMchester 7 74 West Sussex... •! Arundel 6 66 ( Bramber 11 40 f Lewes 12 51 East Sussex ... < Pevensey 18 52 (Hastings 13 51 6 66 324 By the Distribution of Seats Bill (1884) the parliamentary representation of Sussex is divided among 9 members — 6 from rural constituencies, 2 from the borough of Brighton, and 1 from that of Hastings. ^111 GUIDE TO SUSSEX. Ecclesiastically it constitutes the Diocese of Chichester, and is subdivided into 2 archdeaconries and 11 rural deaneries, viz. : — Archdeacokky. Rural Deaneries. Chichester Chichester. Arundel. Boxgrove. Midhurst. Stonington. Pagham. Archdeaconbt. Rural Deaxeries. Lewe3 Dallington. Hastings. Pevensey. South Mailing. Battle forms a deanery by itself. Sussex, has preserved its Saxon and Norman divisions and local peculiarities more than almost any other county in Eng- land, and as a great body of curious information has of late years been published upon this subject, we make some extracts bearing upon it from a valuable work, Taylor's "Words and Places." Speaking of ancient county divisions, hundreds, rapes, &c., he says " While the hundred seems to indicate the peaceful settle- ment of Saxon families, and the wapentake the defensive-military organisation of the Danish intruders, the rape, as it would appear, is a memorial of the violent transference of landed property by the Conqueror, the lands being plotted out for diWsion by the hrepp, or rope, just as they had been by Kolf in Normandy. " The districts of Iceland are called Hreppar. The hyde the Saxon unit of land, seems to have been a portion measured off with a thong. . . . The hyde^ or hide, was a space of 100 or 120 acres, varying in different parts of the country. The ca/rrucate was the fourth part of the hide, and was what one family could plough and cultivate in one year, being con- sidered equivalent to their maintenance; hence it was also called a ploughland. Eight hides, or 800 acres, made one hiigMs fee, being considered as the land sufficient to maintain and furnish the king with one knight for his wars. DIMENSIONS AND DIVISIONS. IX " The Uundred is supposed to Lave been originally the settlement of 100 free families of Saxon colonists, just as the canton was a similar Celtic division (from the Welsh cant^ a hundred). In i-ural districts the population must have increased at least tenfold — often in a much larger proportion — since the period of the formation of the present Hundreds Many single agricultural parishes contain 100 families re- moved above the labouring class ; and we may probably con- clude that the population is equal to that of one of the Saxon Hundreds. The manner in which the island was gradually peopled, and the distribution and relative density of the Saxon population, are curiously indicated by the varying sizes of the Hundreds. In Kent, Sussex, and Dorset, which were among the earliest settlements, the small dimensions of the Hundreds prove the Saxon population was very dense ; whereas when we approach the borders of Wales and Cumberland, where the Saxon tenure was one rather of conquest than of colonisation, and where a few free families probably held in check a con- siderable subject population, we find that the Hundreds include a much larger area. Thus the average number of square miles in each Hundred is — In Sussex 23 In Kent 24 Dorset 30 Wilts 44 North Hants.. 52 Surrey 58 Herts 79 Gloucester ... 97 Notts 105 Derby 162 Warwick 179 Lancaster ... 302 We arrive at similar conclusions from the proportions of the slaves to the rest of the population as returned in "Domesday." In the east of England we find no slaves returned, the Celtic population having become entirely assimilated. In Kent and Sussex the slaves constituted 10 per cent, of the population j in Cornwall and Devon, 20 per cent. ; in Gloucestershire, 33 per cent."— Taylor's " Words and Places." X GUIDE TO SUSSEX. With regard to Saxon names in Sussex, Mr. Taylor obsei'ves (p. 360) :— " Tlie vast tract in Kent and Sussex, which is now called the Weald {Well Street is the name of the Roman road which ran through the wooded district), is the remains of a Saxon forest called the Andredesleah, which with a breadth of thirty miles stretched for 120 miles along the northern frontier of the kingdom of the South Saxons. In the district of the Weald almost every local name, for miles and miles, terminates in hurst, ley, den, ov field. The hursts and hoi'sts were the denser portions of the forest ; the leys were the open forest glades, ^^•here the cattle love to lie ; the dens were the deep wooded \ alleys; and the fields were little patches oi felled or cleared lands in the midst of the surrounding forest. From Peteks- FiELD and jMidhurst, by Eillinghuest, Cuckfield, Wadhurst, and Lamberhuest, as far as Hawkhurst and Texterdex, these joint names stretch in an uninterrupted string. The dens (pro- bably a Celtic word adopted by the Saxons) were the swine pastures ; and down to the seventeenth century the ' Court of Dens,' as it was called, was held at Addington, to determine disputes arising out of the rights of forest pasture. . . . An analysis of the forest names in the Weald gives the following results : — Hurst. Den. Ley. Holt, hot. Field. Total. Central Kent 33 42 22 1 19 117 Northern Sussex ... 40 U 21 4 28 109 Southern Surrey ... 1 8 11 2 22 Eastern Hants 26 1 15 3 6 51 100 59 %Q 19 55 299 Much additional light has been thrown on this subject by a learned Sussex antiquary, Mr. W. Durrant Cooper, who has published an interesting paper on Sussex names in the 7th vol. of the " Sussex Archaeological Collections." He obseiwes that the names, syllables, or terminations, differ much in the two DIMENSIONS AND DIVISIONS. XI divisions of the county; and that in the eastern division ^e^c^, fold^ leak, or ley^ and hvA'st, are to be found in fully one-half of all the names of places j while in the western division the same circumstance holds good for den, or dearie ing, ton, and ham. Saxon words, he says, are found entering into the composition of the names of at least 600 farms in Sussex, and he forms the following table of the chief words so compounded : — Brook : as Kidbrook, Holbrook, &c. Bum : as Glyndebourn, Hawks- bourne. B-wry : as Owlsbury, Chanctonbury, &c. Camb (a valley with water) : as Dun- combe, Combland, &c. Croft : as Wivelscrof t, Horncrof t, &c. De7i : as Birchden, Higbden, &c. Field : as Freshfield, Oxfield, &c. Fold : as Ashf old, Pensfold, &c. Ford : as Blackford, Durnf ord, &c. Ham, : as Clapbam, Wickbam, &c. Hoe: as Hoebouse, Hoefarm, The Hove, anciently The Hooe. Holm : as Holmbusb, Broomsholm, &c. Holt : as Buckbolt, Soutbbolt, &c. Hook : as Hookland, Hookfarm, &c. Hurst : as Asbburst, Ticeburst, &c. Ig, or Eye: as Horsey, Thomey, &c. Ing : as Angmering, Poleing, &c. Knol: as Bigknowl, Woodknowl, &c. Leah, or Ley: as Horleigb, Higb- leagb, Verdley, &c. Ling ; as Birbng, PeUing, &c. Low : as Burlow, Lowfield, &c. Mere: as Duckmere, Radesmere, &c. Mitchel: as Mitcbelbam, ]\Iitcbel- grove, &c. Nap : as Nepcote, Napfarm, &c. Slade : as Slade, Sladelands, &c. Stan^ or Stone : as Stamstreet, Stone- bam, &c. Stede : as Horstede, Stanstead, &c. Streete: as Streetefarm. Ton : as Preston, Hougbton, &c. Tye : as Brambletye, Tyebill, &c. Wick : as Godenwick, Lutwick, &c. Worth: as Atlingwortb, Petwortb, &c. It may be added that a curious paper on Sussex provin- cialisms in dialect, &o., by Mr. M. A. Lower, is published in the thij'teenth volume of the same " Collections." IL— GENERAL ASPECT. Sussex is a district of much picturesque beauty, although it haa no high mountains, nor great valleys, nor wide rivers, nor leaping waterfalls, among its natural features. Its beauty con- sists in its well- wooded, well-cultivated lands ; in the frequent occurrence of antique manors and castles ; in the constant presence of village clnirches of every epoch of English architec- ture j and in its comfortable, well-stocked farms and cottages — every farm with its orchard ; every cottage with its garden. All along the south side of the county, from the neighbour- hood of Chichester to Beachy Head, runs the hilly range of the South Downs, bare of trees, but famous for their white chalk cliffs and green sheep-walks : while the larger part of the county, to the northward and eastward, is a farming tract, broken up into small eminences, rising into the Forest Eidge on the north-east, and sinking into wide marshes on the south- east by the edge of the sea. Sussex abounds in small forests and woodlands, is exceedingly fertile and productive of all that is wanted in life, and is proverbially healthy in climate. A full account of the climate of Sussex, and of all the south coast of England, will be found in the Appendices to Horsfield : it contains tables of temperature and analyses of mineral water. The author was Dr. William King, a physician of eminence and jcientific distinction living at Brighton. At no very distant period the roads and means of commu- nication were peculiarly bad ; but during the present century they have been improving, and before the introduction of rail- ways travelling had attained great excellence all over the county. At the present time Sussex is well off for railways, being traversed fi'om north to south by the London and Brigh- GENERAL ASPECT. XUl ton line, with its numerous branches ; and from east to west, along the coast, by the Hastings and Folkestone branch of the South-Eastern line ; and by the London and South Coast line ninning near and branching off to all the ports and watering- places. Geology/. — Dr. Mantell, in his account of the geology of Sussex, prefixed to Horsfield's " History," gives such a lucid sketch of the subject, that we cannot do better than quote many of his observations, and refer those readers who wish for further information to his works, as well as to papers by Lyell and other eminent geologists on the same subject. Mantell says : — "The strata of Sussex belong to those .secondary formations of England that are newer than, or, in other words, have been deposited subsequently to, the Pur beck limestone ; comprising also outliers of the London clay or Isle of White basin ; and accumulations of diluvial and alluvial debris. The principal regular deposits are the plastic and Lon- don clay of the tertiary formations ; the chalk and the "Wealden beds, comprehending the Weald clay and the sands and clays of Tilgate Forest and Hastings of the secondary. The physical characters of the district depend on the range and extent of these mineral masses. Along the southern division the chalk constitutes a magnificent chain of hills or downs, which extends through the county, in a direction nearly east and west, from Beachy Head to Hampshire. On the north of the Downs a valley of clay or marl appears, which is succeeded by a belt of sand that, in the west division, rises into hills of considerable elevation ; a valley of clay, forming the Weald, runs parallel with the northern edge of the sand ; and this vale is bounded by another ridge of sand and sandstone, which constitutes the northern limits of the county. . . . The agricultural features of the district vary, of course, with the nature of the subsoil. The chalk hills are principally reserved for pasturage, and support a breed of sheep which for fineness of wool and xiv GUIDE TO SUSSEX. compactness of form are superior to any in the kingdom. The line of alluvial soil between the Downs and the sea, on the western side of the county, is equal to any for its richness and fertility ; at the foot of the Downs, on the north side, where the marl emerges from below the chalk, the land is a very pro- ductive arable; the clay of the Weald produces a stiff soil, remarkably favourable for the growth of forest trees, particu- larly the oak ; and the sand of the forest ridge constitutes the most picturesque, but barren, tract of the whole country." The following table will give a succinct view of all the Sussex formations : — Formation. Organic Remains. Localities. Alluvium Incrustationof tufts, trunks Springs; valleys of the of trees, leaves, nuts, &c,; Arun, Adur, Ouse, and comminuted sheUs of Cuckmere ; bogs at Am- existing species. berley, Lewes, Pevensey, &c. Diluvium Bones and teeth of the Burton, Patcham, Hast- elephant, &o. ings, &c. ; summits and valleys of the Downs. Tertiary Formations. Crag Bones, &c,, of elephant, Shoreham and Rotting- horse, deer, &c. ; jaws of dean ; on summits and whale, &c. fissures of chffs, &c. Plastic Clay Ostrese ; cycladese ; teeth of Castle Hill, Newhaven ; fishes ; leaves of un- Downs, near Seaford ; known plants, &c. Palmer, near Lewes. London Clay Septaria ; teeth and palates Bracklesham Bay, near of fishes, &o. Chichester ; Bognor Rooks, &c. Secondary Formations. Chalk, with FLiNXS.NoduIes and veins of Upper portion of South flint; pyi'ites; ammonitae, Downs, echini, zoophytes, &c. Chalk, without Pyrites, zoophytes, echini. Lower division of South Flints. shells, &c. Downs. Chalk Marl Calcareous spar, turritellae, Base of the Downs, South- crustacea. bourne, Lewes, &c. GENEKAL ASPECT. XT FoEMATioir. Oroajtic Eemains. Upper Greek SAND.Ostrea, carinatae, ammonitae, &c. Gault Gypsum; ammonitae, fishes, Crustacea, &c. SHANKT.m Sand ...Trigonise; patellae, veneri- cardiae, &c. Weald Clay Paludineae, saurians and fishes ; limestone, with fresh-water bivalves. Lignites, ferns, &c. Hastings Sands AND Clays. TiLGATE Forest Strata, Teeth and bones of enor- mous reptiles ; turtles, birds, fishes ; shells of genera, renio, paludinae, &c. ; plants allied to palms, ferns, &c. AsHBUBNHAM Beds. Immense quantities of bi- valve shells, renio, and equiseta, &c. LocALPrrBs. Steyning, Bignor, New- sted, &c. Ringmer, Newtimber, Arundel, Bignor, &c. Pevensey, Laughton, Ditchhng, Pulborough, Petworth, &c. Laughton, Kirdf ord. West Grinstead, Cowfold, &c. Bexhill, Horsted, &c. Hastings, Ore, Tilgate Forest, Horsham, Chaily, Rye, Winchelsea, Craw- ley, &c. Brightling, Hurst Green, Rotherfield, &c. In the above series the chalk and the Tilgate Forest beds are the most remarkable ; the former for their great thickness, and for the deposits of flint, &c. ; the latter for the immense saurian remains, such as those of the iguanodon, an animal from 70 to 100 feet long, the megalosaurus, (fee. (fee. Dr. Mantell, in commenting upon the Tilgate formations, observes — " The almost exclusive prevalence of land and ft^sh water exuviae observable in these strata, "warrants the conclusion that they were formed by a very different agent from that which effected the deposition of the Portland limestone below, and the sands and chalk above them. The seas, in the primitive ages of our planet, were inhabited by vast tribes of multilocular shells, which, however variable in their species, were not only of the same family, but also of the same genera, viz. : Belemnites, Ammonites, and Tumlites ; and the presence of their remains XVI GUIDE TO SUSSEX. in any considerable quantity in a formation affords a fair pre- sumption that such a deposit is of marine origin. "We cannot leave this subject," Mantell adds, "without offering a few remarks on the probable condition of the country through which the water flowed that deposited the strata of the Wealden ; and on the nature of its vegetable and animal pro- ductions. Whether it was an island or a continent may not be determined, but that it was diversified by hill and valley, and enjoyed a climate of a much higher temperature than any part of modern Europe, is more than probable. Several kinds of ferns appear to have constituted the vegetable clothing of the soil. The elegant SpTicenopteris, which probably never attained a greater height than a few feet, and the beautiful Lonicopteris of still lesser growth, being abundant everywhere. It is easy to conceive what would be the appearance of the valleys and plains covered with these plants, from that presented by modern tracts where the common ferns so generally prevail But the loftier vegetables were so entirely distinct from any that are now known to exist in European countries, that we search in vain for anything at all analogous without the tropics. The forests of Clatharice and JEndogenitce, the plants of which, like some of the arborescent ferns, probably attained a height of thii'ty or forty feet, must have borne a much greater resemblance to those of tropical regions than to any that now occur in temperate climates. If we attempt to portray the animals of this ancient country, our description will possess more of the character of a romance than of a legitimate deduction from established facts. Turtles of various kinds must have been seen on the banks of its rivers and lakes, and groups of enormous crocodiles basking in the fens and shallows. The enormous Megalosaurus- and the yet more gigantic Iguanodon, to which the groves of palms and aborescent ferns would have been mere beds of reeds, must have been of such prodigious magnitude that the existing animal creation presents us with no fit objects of GENERAL ASPECT. XVll comparison. . . . The sequence of the physical changes that have taken place in this district is clearly established j and it may be stated, not as an hypothesis, but as a necessary deduction from known facts, that the part of the earth's sur- face, which is now the county of Sussex, has, within the periods to which our researches refer, suffered the following mutations : — " 1st. It was the delta of some mighty river, which flowed through a country enjoying a tropical climate, and inhabited by various reptiles, and clothed with palms and arborescent ferns. " 2ndly. This delta was covered by a profound ocean, and formed the bottom of the deep for a period of sufficient duration to admit of the deposition of several thousand feet of strata, enclosing myriads of marine fishes, corals, and shells. "3rdly. The oceanic deposit was broken up and elevated above the waters, the higher summits forming groups of islands ; while in the hollows, which were covered by the sea, those strata were deposited which geologists now term the tertiary forma- tions. " 4thly. A further elevation took place ; and the elephant, the horse, the buffalo, and the deer lived on the hills and plains- and their remains became entombed in this superficial strata. " Lastly. The surface assumed its present form, and man, took possession of the soil, and destroyed many species of its ancient inhabitants." The opinion of Sir C. Lyell, and other recent geologists who have worked at the Sussex district, may be briefly stated, thus : — That after the deposition of the "Wealden formations, that of the chalk and its associated beds took place, beneath a very deep ocean; that upheavals then took place, cracking and breaking up the chalk, by forces acting, some from east to west, some north and south, and that while the tertiary deposits were being made amid an archipelago of islands, the chalk was being gi-adually fetched out by the ocean from the surface of the XVlll GUIDE TO SUSSEX. Wealden beds; and the downs nortli and south left in theirpresent general forms, with the transvere valleys of the present rivers intersecting them ; and that then diluvial and alluvial processes took place during and after the great glacial epoch, and then the subsequent approximation of the surface and its climatic condition to what we now experience. To this it may be added that within the historic period great changes have taken place along the coastline of Sussex. Much cultivated land has been washed away by the sea in the neighbourhood of Selsey, Chichester Harbour, Bognor, &c. At Shoreham, the sea once came further inland than it does now. At Aldrington, once at the mouth of the Adur river, the habitations have disappeared, and only the ruined church remains ; yet the sea has sub- sequently retired, or rather has thrown up a long shingle bank, changing the course of the river, and forming land on which houses have again been built, as in the west portion of Hove parish. At Brighton, towards the middle of the present town, much land has been lost, and the dates of the marine encroach- ments are accurately known. All along the line of cliffs from Brighton to Beachy Head a wasting process, by the action of the sea, is going on. Beyond Beachy Head, however, at Pevensey, the sea has retired ; and, though it has gained on the cliffs at Hastings, yet at St. Leonards it has shut itself out by shingle. At Winchelsea, the sea, after destroying the old town, has again retired ; and at Bye great difficulty has been expe- rienced in keeping the harbour navigable, even for small vessels, though once it was one of the most flourishing ports of Sussex. There is a perpetual drifting of shingle from the west all along the coast, tending greatly to modify its outline. In general, too, most of the Sussex rivers have suffered from gradual silting up. The subjoined table of the principal altitudes of the hills in Sussex is taken from Mr. T. H. Cooper's "Account of tlio Botany of the County" in the Appendices to Horsfield : — GENERAL ASPECT. XIX Ditchling Beacon 858 feet above the sea. Firle Beacon 820 „ „ Chanctonbury Hill 814 „ „ Crowboro-ugh Beacon 804 „ „ Rooks' HiU 702 „ « BowHill 702 „ ^ Brightling Hill 646 „ „ Fairlight Down 599 „ „ BeachyHead 575 „ „ The average height, however, of the South Downs may be reckoned at about 500 feet above the level of the sea. Rivers. — The Sussex livers all flow ultimately into the English Channel, rising mostly in the northern parts of the county. The chief streams are . — (1.) The "Western Amn, rising near Petersfield, flowing eastward till it meets the Western Rother, at Selham. (2.) The Western Rother, rising near Lnrgeshall, joining the West Aran at Selham, and then flowing into the Aran, near Stopham. (3.) The Aran, rising in St. Leonard's Forest, and falling into the sea at Littlehampton, below ArandeL (4.) The Lavant, rising in Charlton Forest, and flowing into the sea near Chichester. (6.) The Adur, rising near Nnthnrst, and falling into the sea at Shoreham. (6.) The Ouse, rising in St. Leonard's and Worth Forests, in two branches, and falling into the sea at Newhaven, below Lewes. (7,) The Cnckmere, rising near Heathfield Park, and falling into the sea near Seaford. (8.) The Ashburne, rising near DaUington, and falling into the sea near Pevensey. (9.) The Asten, rising near Ashburnham, and falling into the sea near St. Leonards. (10.) The Tillingham, rising at Beckley. (11.) The Brede, rising near Battel (12.) The Tweed, rising near Playdon. These three small streams all faU into the East Rother. (13.) The Eastern Rother, rising near Rotherfield, and falling into the sea at Rye. XX GUIDE TO SUSSEX. The Kent Diich is a branch of the East E-othcr, dividing Kent from Sussex. There are two canals in West Sussex ; one from Portsmouth to the Arun, but now dry, and one joining the rivers Arun and Kother with the Wey, and so with the Thames. In East Sussex there is the military canal, a defensible work constructed during the great French war, running from near Hastings to Hythe in Kent, now disused. Many meres, or small lakes, exist in theWeald of Sussex, as well as pools and ponds, formed for the iron- works which once flourished in that part of the county. Besides the above, there are many small streams, serving as feeders to the principal ones. A fall account of them all, com- piled with great care, and accompanied by much admii'able typographical detail, has been published by Mr. M. A. Lower, in the " Sussex Archseological Collections." It will well repay the trouble of consulting it. Some names of Sussex rivers are evidently ancient British, such as the Arun, the Rother, the Adui-, and the Ouse. One small stream is called the Esse, another the Tweed, a third the Limene (or Eastern Rother), and a fourth the Tyse or Tees. Closely connected with the social habits and condition of any district and its historical changes, is the character of its architecture. The leading featm^es of the principal buildings throughout the county, and the peculiarities of their styles, are recorded in this work according as the bmldings themselves come to be mentioned. It is, however, desirable to state herf that Sussex contains numerous specimens of almost all kinds of architecture ever produced in Britain. There is Roman work as at Pevensey castle, Saxon in some of the small churches in the western divisions, Norman throughout the whole county, and Ea/rly English closely associated with it in a large pro- portion of the parish churches. The later characteristics of English architecture. Decorated, Perpeyidicular, Elizabethan^ GUIDE TO SUSSEX. xxi CaroUnia/n, and the debased Dutch and Italian of more recent times, are all represented in Sussex buildings. The three leading peculiarities of the local architecture are to be looked for, first, in the fine old castles of Arundel, Bodiam, Hurstmonceux, &c. ; next, in the pile of Chichester Cathedral, and in all the little village churches for which the county is famous ; but, thirdly, and most remarkably, in the manor houses of the Elizabethan period which stud the district all over. Hardly a village is to be met with in which some remains of old manorial grandeur are not still to be found. They are nearly all specified in this work. As a part of the ecclesiology of Sussex, it is proper to mention that antiquaries have of late been inquiring into the subject of its church bells j and have found it to be rich in the number of bells which it still possesses. The total number of church and public bells in the county is 1,013, of which 106 date from periods prior to the Reformation. There are 18 peals of eight bells, 39 of six, and 31 of five. The heaviest tenor is at St. Paul's, Brighton, weighing two tons. Some of these bells were cast by Sussex founders ; but the greater num- ber, being old peals re-cast, have been made in London. Sussex villagers are peculiarly fond of bell-ringing. The inscriptions on some of the bells are very curious ; and a full account of them will be found in voL xvi, of the ** Sussex Archaeological CoUectionfl.^ LONDON Sc BRIGHTON & SOUTH-COAST RAILWAYS LONDON TO BRIGHTON, PORTSMOUTH & HASTINGS. STINCS rfold y^iaRIGHTON ■ ^^£^;.^^./'-H /. ,'^'-^r,'r''" Iff'"' -T/^A^/NJ^rrlfr"! '^ ^''^' \\ "^ Jit -• "°^ 'Sit, i".' SUSSEX GUIDE. HASTINGS and ST. LEONARDS. [Population, 42,256. Hotels: Queen's ; Victoria; Albion; Royal Marine; Castle; Royal Saxon. London, 62 m. by L. and S.-E. R. Winchelsea, 8^ m. Rams- gate, 23 in.| 3attle, 6 m.' Rye, 11^' m. Eastbourne, 18 m.] Hastings, forming with St. Leonards one borough, is the second to^vn of the county as regards population, being next after Brighton, but it is one of the first in historical interest and importance, and certainly the chief in respect of beauty, whether of inland or coast scenery. In the famous Bayeaux Tapestry, which commemorates the Conqueror's expedition to England, and the battle that gave him the crown, we find Hastings named Hestenga-ceastra, shoeing that it was a fortified town at that period. It was a place of trade and strength in the Saxon times, and took its name from the family or tribe of the Haestingas. In the reign of Edward the Confessor its ships and sailors were well known. It was chartered, and was afterwards placed at the head of the list of the Cinque Forts. Ship-building was carried on, but the trade was not equal to that of Rye or Winchelsea. The sea made encroachments, and destroyed its harbour, and the town gradually sank in importance till the latter part of the last century, when it was recommended by Dr. BaiLUe for invalids, and has since become one of the favourite watering-places of England. " We have been," says Charles Lamb, " duU at Worthing one summer, duller at Brighton another, dullest at Eastbourne a 2 HASTINGS. third, and are at this moment doing dreary penance at Hastings .' I love town or country, but this detestable Cinque Port is neither. I hate these scrubbed shoots thrusting out their starved foliage from between horrid fissures of dusty innutritions rocks, which the amateur calls ' verdure to the edge of the sea.' I require woods, and they show me stunted coppices. I cry out for the water-brooks, and pant for fresh streams and inland murmurs. I cannot stand all day on the naked beach, watching the capricious hues of the sea, shifting like the colours of a dying mullet. I am tired of looking out of the windows of this island prison. I would fain retire into the interior of my cage." But the tourist will err wofully if he accepts Charles Lamb's delightful badinage for truthful description. Hastings is not only not a dull, but it is even a romantic and picturesque town. It has, moreover, good hotels and lodging-houses, excellent public-baths, a pier 900 feet in length, with a pavilion capable of seating 2000 persons, and a public park of 70 acres in extent. Hastings and St. Leonards, although originally distinct and separated from each other by about a mile, are now connected by a line of terraces and parades, extending for nearly three miles along the coast. St. Leonards is the more fashionable district of the two, and has a separate station. Near the Saxon Hotel, on the Grand Parade, an archway with the date 1828, marks the eastern boundary of St. Leonards. Beyond this, to the west- wards, are the Marina, where is situated the Victoria Hotel. Near this are the Subscription Garden and Assembly Room. St. Leonard's Green and the Archery Gardens are delightful places of recreation as well as the Public Park w^hich covers an area of 70 acres. The pier extends 900 feet into the sea, and the pavilion connected with it will accommodate 2000 persons. Sea-bathing may be enjoyed at Hastings from machines, which are stationed opposite the Marina, the Marine Parade, Eversfield, and Stratford Place, and Robertson Terrace. There are also baths in the town, and an aquarium. The town of Hastings lies for the most part in a hollow, snugly sheltered by hills, except where it slopes southward to the sea. The original town is believed to have extended some distance to the south, its site being now partly covered by the waves. There has for the last 25 years been a continual effort to render every part of the to-UTi as modern looking as possible, and any traces of antiquity have now disappeared. Its industrial support is derived HASTINGS. 3 from its fishery, boat-building, and lime burning ; its lime-kilns lying up at tlie valley, at some small distance from the sea. Messrs. Rock and Son have here a large and celebrated coach-factory. The principal thoroughfares are Pelham Crescent, Pelham Place, "Wel- lington Street, the Marine Parade, and Piobertson Street. Under the East Cliff, varying fi'om 170 to 218 feet in height, Dutch fish- auctions are often held. The Town Hall is in High Street, and was built in 1823. It boasts of a shield taken from the French at the conquest of Quebec. To the west stretch the lofty and breezy terraces of St. Leoxaeds, almost as far as Bulverhythe, or "the townsmen's haven." The Marina, a parade 600 feet in length, was designed in 1828 by Decimus Burton, the architect, and the Esplanade was also erected on his plans. Its new church was built in 1833. Hastings, as may be supposed, has had its "distinguished \dsitors." Charles Lamb was here, as we have already shewn, and indulged his usual good-humoured vein of satire. Lord Byron was here in 1814, "swimming and eating turbot, and smuggling neat brandies and silk handkerchiefs, and walking on clifi's, and tumbling doT\Ti hiUs," Here Campbell resided for five years, and "WTote his beautiful " address to the Sea." Here the Rev. Chai'les Honeyman {vide " The Xewcomes ") displayed his wliite handkerchief and his lachr}Tnose eloquence in Lady Whittlesea's chapel. Prout, the artist, lived at 53 George Street. Sir Cloudesley Shovel and Titus Gates — not exactly "Arcades ambo," though we class them together — were born in All Saints* Street. Louis Kapoleon, the exile, resided at Pelham Cottage, in 1840, and Louis Philippe, ex-King of the French, at the Victoria Hotel, 1848. The Climate in the higher parts of the town is vigorous and bracing ; in the lower range it is well adapted, from its mildness, to the most delicate pulmonary invalids. St. Leonards is, how- ever, the healthiest and most genial quarter. According to Dr. Harwood, the average mean temperature, at 9 a.m., is, in Novem- ber 45° ; December 47°, January and February 44° ; and out of 64 days the S.W. wind prevails 22, S. 11, K 8, W. 8, S.E. 6, NJ:. 4, K.W. 3, and E. 2. The botanist will find in this vicinity — peppermint, catmint, calamint, wild cabbage, psamma arenaria, samphire, tamarisk, scorpion grass, henbane, wild celery, and pellitory. The kestrel, tern, bee-eater, phalarope, landrail, hobby, snipe, plover, and 4 HASTINGS. gull are met with along this coast from Hastings to Rye.— (J. E. Knox) Hastings, as the termination ing indicates, was a settle- ment of the Saxon Hsestingas, and cannot be connected with Hasten, the old Danish jarl. Edward the Conqueror erected it into a seaport, and its contingent to the Cinque Ports' fleet was estimated at 21 ships, each bearing 20 men and a boy. Its com- ponent limbs, or members, were — Pevensey, Seaford, Bekesboume, and the Ville of Grange, Eoch ester. As late as the reign of Elizabeth it could boast of a wooden pier, now replaced by a handsome structure, which is a favourite resort of visitors. The harbour, however, is not considered a safe one for large vessels, and colliers after discharging their cargoes generally leave at next tide. On this shore William the Conqueror landed on the 20th of September 1066, and, while his Knights stared at each other aghast, lost his footing as he leapt ashore. With the promptitude of a great mind he grappled the sands with his fingers, and exclaimed, "It is thus I take seisin of the land which shall shortly be ours." The table — a slab of rock — at which he is said to have taken his dinner, is now placed at the gateway of the old Subscription Gardens. His vessels, meanwhile, were moored in a line from Pevensey to Hastings. From this place he marched along the downs to Telham Hill. On the level, near the Railway Station, he formed his camp where his army passed the night in prayer and singing hjonns. Hastings Castle stands upon the brink of the cliff. Its principal entrance was necessarily on the land side, where the portcullis groove, and the hooks for the gate-hinges may yet be examined. The castle area occupied about an acre and a quarter. The south side was 400 feet long ; the east side 300 feet long, with a fosse, and a massive wall strengthened by three semicir- cular towers whose fragments are still interesting. The north- west side was 400 feet in length. To the west, both a square and a circular tower are still standing, and a doorway which formerly opened into the chapel of St. Mary, a Transitional Norman structure, 110 feet long, with a nave, chancel, and aisles, now a mass of ruins. The manor was bestowed by King William on the Count of Lee, who may have erected the castle. It remained in the hands of his descendants until the middle of the fourteenth century when, according to tradition, it Mas consumed by fire. In December HABTINQS CHURCHES. 6 1093, William Eufus was detained here by contrary winds, and Archbishop Anselm consecrated — in the Castle Chapel — Eobert Blovet as bishop of Lincoln. Adela, daughter of King William, presided here as Queen of Love and Beauty at the first tournament celebrated in England. The castle now belongs to the Earl of Chichester, and admittance may be gained at any time, except on Sundays, to see the ruins, fee 3d. At the foot of East Hill stands the Perpendicular pile of All Saints' Church, with a nave, chancel, south porch, and west tower, 73 feet high. Observe the sedilia in the south wall ; and the octangular font. It contains a brass to T. Good- enough. In the graveyard lies George Mogridge, d. 1854, better known as " Old Humphrey." St. Clement's Church, in High Street, another Perpendi- cular building (1380), contains a chancel, nave, north and south aisles, and west tower. Two balls fixed to the tower commemo- rate the attack made by the Dutch fleet, under de Ruyter, in 1666. The font is Decorated and octagonal. There are brasses to Thos. Weehes, d. 1563, and John Barley, d. 1592. St. Paul's Church, a handsome edifice, opened in 1868, is of the style of the early part of the fourteenth century. Tlie roof is of deal varnished, and painted to resemble oak ; varie- gated stone and brick are used throughout in the paving of the chancel and tower. The apse is spacious, having fine windows of richly stained glass. The reredos in the centre is panelled, and the sides are lined with alabaster ; between the rail and the altar are five medallions let into the floors, representing The Slaying of the Innocents ; the Stoning of St. Stephen ; the Beheading of St. Paul ; the Beheading of St. James ; the Crucifixion of St. Peter. There are also five smaller medallions, representing the lash, ladder, nails, and other instruments of the sufferings of the Saviour. The reading ledge of the pulpit is upheld by an angel sculptured in pure marble, and the font is of sienna marble, its stand being of Emperor's red and Derbyshire fossil. St. Mart's-in-the-Castle, a Grecian structure, in Pelham Crescent, built by Lord Chichester in 1828, has its altar in the middle of the south side. St. Mary Magdalene's was consecrated in 1852 ; St. Clement's, Halton, in 1838 ; and the Mariners' chapel in 1854. St. Leonard's was erected in 1833. 6 HASTINGS. A fragment of wall at the Priory Farm is the sole relic of a house of Augustinian canons, founded by Sir W. C. Bricet, terap. Eichard I. The climate of Hastings is salubrious, and in many respects suitable for invalids, being generally cooler than London in summer, and warmer in the spring months. The exposure varies considerably ; but that portion of St. Leonards which lies be- neath the cliffs which have been cut away for its erection, includ- ing Verulam and Eversham Place, the Grand Parade, and part of the Llarina, is almost completely sheltered from the north wind. The view of Hastings from St. Leonards is one of exquisite beauty. " The lofty and handsome range of Pelham Crescent, the church of St. Llary-at-Cliff, and other modern buildings, occupy a prominent jDlace in the picture, and wear an imposing air as they stand contrasted with the meaner houses at their base, and are backed by the noble cliff which rises far above, and which has been carved away to afford room for them. The houses of the older part of the town running irregularly up the higher grounds, and opposing to each other every variety of size, and shape, and colour, prevent anything like formality, which the preponderance of the newer buildings would otherwise pro- duce ; while the gray fragments of the ancient castle, crowning the summit of the lofty cliff, impart an air of dignity to the humble dwellings beneath. And then, to complete the picture, a large fleet of fishing smacks and boats, with numerous fishing- boats moving about them, are seen on the beach." — {Thome). [Hints for Rambles. 1. To Fairligbt Down, and thence to Guestling. Cross tlie country to Westfield. Keep northward, across the Rother, to Brede. Visit Sedlescomb, and return by the main road. About 17 m. 2. Through Hollington to Battle Abbey. Return by way of Catsfield and Crowhurst, 12 m. 3. Through St Lftonards and Bulverhythe to Bexhill. Strike across the country northward to Crowhurst. Gain the high road by way of Crowhurst Park, and return vid Ore to Hasting.s. 4. To Winchelsea by rail. Return, by the road, to Pett, and thence by way of Fairlight Down, the Lovers' Seat, the Dripping Well, and Ecclesbourne Cliffs to Hastings.] We subjoin the distances from Hastings of the following localities : — To Belleport, 3 m. ; Crowhurst, 2| m. ; Dropping Well, 2 m. ; Ecclesbourne Cliffs, 2 m. ; Fairlight Glen, 2^ m. ; Glen Roar Cascade, 2| m. ; Hollington, 2 m. ; The Lovers' Seat, if m. ; Old Roar Cascade, 2 J m. : Ore, 1} m. ; Westfield, 5 m. LOVERS' SEAT FAIRLIGHT GLEN, NEAR HASTINGS. ENVIRONS OF HASTI^'G3. FAIRLIGHT GLEN— LOVERS' SEAT— DRIPPING WELL. This forms one of those numerous walks wliicli render the neighhourhood of Hastings so attractive. The bold, bleak ascent of Fairlight Down is 600 feet above the sea, and commands the whole sweep of the coast from Beachy Head to the South Foreland. The inland views are of the most varied and interest- ing character. The village of Fairlight contains a population of some 500 inhabitants. Its pretty Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, was consecrated in 1846. The vicarage is valued at ^502 per annum. Passing the residence of Fairlight Place, we descend into the leafy and blossomy depths of Fairlight Glex, and make our way to the Drippi^tg Well, where, in the shadow of a glorious beech-tree, plashes over the rock a bright shimmering streamlet. A path along the hill-side leads hence to the famous Lovers' Seat, where, to use a local rhyme, — *' Youth, from sympathy, a visit pay. And age to pass the tedious hour away." Here we may rest ourselves upon a rude oaken bench, and look out afar over a sea which seems lit with a thousand suns. This, we are told, was (at the close of the last century) the trysting-spot of two unfortunate true lovers — the heiress of the Bogs of Elford and Lieutenant Lamb, who commanded a revenue cutter stationed off this coast. Their stolen interviews led, in due time, to a clandestine marriage in Hollington Church. The lady, after presenting her husband with a daughter, sickened and died ; the widowed husband, while sailing up the Southampton river, was smitten overboard by the boom of his yacht. We may now continue our stroll to the shingled beach of Covehurst Bay, and keep along to Ecclesbourne (or Eagle's Bourne) Glen, a picturesque gap in the cliffs, which are here 250 feet above the sea. Ascending the height we pass the coast-guard station, and afterwards, on the right, the grounds of Rocklajn'DS, where Canning used occasionally to retire from the strife of St. Stephen's. We soon gain the elevation of the East Cliffs, where are visible enough the lines of a Norman entrenchment. At CM End, below Pett, commences the low marshy ground 8 ENVIRONS OP HASTINGS. extending from tlie sandstone of the Hastings ridge to the chalk of the Folkestone heights. The Hastings sand stretches from tliis point over the whole valley of the Weald, bordered north and south by the chalk ranges. The Forest Eidge, alternating between sandstone and clay, includes Fairlight, Hastings, and Bexhill, and gradually unites with the Wealden. At this point we may turn aside to the village of PETT (population, 364), where a church, dedicated to Sts. Mary and Peter, is noticeable for its deformity. The rectory, valued at £482, is in the gift of Mrs. Young. Just beyond this the cliffs rise into something like grandeur of elevation at Hook Point. The next headland is called Gold- bury Point. OHE, HOLLINGTON, OLD ROAR, WESTFIELD, SEDDLES- COMB, ROBERTSBRIDGE, SALEHURST, BODIAM, ETCHINGHAM, TICEHURST, LAMBERTHURST. Winding up the fair Hastings valley we turn to the right, at (or near) the 6 2d milestone from London, and ascend the hill to ORE (population, 2677,) facing the bold and abrupt eleva- tion of Fairlight Down. Its Perpendicular Church is dedicated to St. Helen, and contains a brass to an unknown worthy, d. 1400. The rectory, valued at .£520, is in the hands of certain trustees. Ore Place (Lady Elphinstone) retains, it is said, some portions of the ancient house erected by John of Gaunt. Another route which the tourist will find, perhaps, the most picturesque, is by way of HOLLINGTON (population, 105 3), about 2 miles north-west of Hastings. Its attraction is the Church (St. Leonard's), a quaint little Early English and partly Late Norman structure, hidden away in a mass of leafiness, at some distance from the village. Its steeple is a low pjTamid, sloping on the west side beyond the roof, and supported by a massive but deformed buttress. It contains an old pentagonal font, and some memorials of little interest. The tradition at- tached to it may be compared with that of Udimore. " When a church was begun in the neighbouring village, the Evil One, WESTFIELD. 9 jealous of tlie encroacluneiit on a spot whicli lie had marked as his own, every night undid what the -svorkmen had accom- plished in the course of the day. Priests were summoned to lay the fiend, and they had prepared to commence their potent conjurements, when a voice was heard offering to desist from opposition if the building were erected on the spot he should indicate. The offer was accepted. The church was raised, and then sprung up all around it a thick wood, concealing it from the general gaze" — {Thome). The vicarage, valued at .£259, is in the patronage of the Eversfield family. The views from the Hollington hills are very beautiful — " charming reaches of down alternating with masses of rich foliage, with here and there a fine old farm-house, or old-fashioned Sussex cottage, and everywhere the ocean filling up the breaks in the distance." We cross from Hollington to Old Roar (2 miles) by a pleasant path leading across fields and through hop-grounds. It lies in a leafy hollow, near Roar Farm, close by which is a blasted oak of bolder and more picturesque form than Salvator ever designed. It derives its name from " the tremendous noise made by a large body of water tumbling over a perpendicular rock, 40 feet high, which might be heard half a mile off." It won't roar now, not even for the gratification of a cockney enthusiast ; but the nook is a romantic and sequestered one, and worth seeing. About a hundred yards higher up is Glen Roar, " a smaller edition of Old Roar, " and only to be reached by the adventurer who makes light of brambles. We now pursue the high road to Lamberhurst, and as we keep along the sandstone ridge, may see below us, on our right, 5 miles from Hastings, the pleasant village of WESTFIELD (population, 900), and its Early English church, a small but pleasant edifice, containing many memorials, but none which will induce us to turn aside to visit them. The vicarage, valued at £520, is in the patronage of the Bishop of diichester. [About t-womiles beyond, and across the Rother, lies BREDE (population, 1059), at a short distance south of the WincheLsea road. Here, on the slope of a gentle acclivity, stands the quaint old manor-house of Brede Place, tzw.'p. fourteenth century, now made use of as a farm, but anciently the residence of the Attefords, from whom it passed, early in the reign of Henry VI., to the Oxenbridges. Of these Sir Goddard, who about 1530 made considerable additions to the mansion, is traditionally repoi-t^d 10 ROBERTSBRIDGE. to have lived upon human flesh, with a particular relish for that of infants. Neither bow and arrow, nor axe, nor sword, nor spear, could slay this redoubtable giant, but some of the country folk about here succeeded at length in making him drunk, and sawing him in half with a wooden saw I His house, about a century ago, was tenanted by a gang of smugglers, who, by inventing strange sights, and uttering unearthly noises, contrived very effectually to secure it to themselves, undisturbed by any over-curious hind. The hall, and a room beyond it, with their Caen stone-work and enriched windows, should be carefully examined. The Church is equally worthy of notice. The Brede chantry was enlarged and repaired by Sir Goddard Oxenbridge, who chiefly employed French workmen, and their skill and fancy may be admired in the window-traceries and the foliated decora- tion of the doorway. Observe the monument, and effigy in Caen stone, of Sir Goddard Oxenbridge, d. 1537. The patronage of the living, a rectory valued at £1023, is in the hands of T. Frew en, Esq. A bridge which spans the ri\'xilet, near Brede Place, is called the Groaninq Bridge, in recollection, perliaps, of the noises artfully produced by the smugglers. On the left of the road, towards Udimore, is Great Sowden's "Wood. It contains a large and well-known heronry.] SEDLESCOMB (popiilation, 714) straggles along the high road, at a distance of about seven miles from Hastings, in a pleasant valley, whose sides are not indifferently clothed with wood. Here the Romans had established an iron work, as appears from the Roman coins discovered in a recently opened cinder-bed, some of which were greatly corroded, and others had evidently been burnt — {Lower). The Church, a noticeable old building, is Early English, with some Perpendicular insertions ia the chancel. Its rectory, valued at <;£350, is included in the Lord Chancellor's patronage. At Cripses' Corner we turn to the left, and regain the princi- pal road, near Vine Hall. At Soins Cross the Battle road effects a junction with the Hastings one, and we soon reach the village of ROBERTSBRIDGE (population, 270), i.e., Rother's-bridge— where there is a station on the Ashford and Hastings branch of the South- Eastern Railway ; an Inn, The Old George ; and a cluster of old- fashioned, red-l3rick houses, intermingled with some bran-new \Tllas. On the river bank, in one of those sweet, sequestered valleys, so dear to the Cistercian monks, moulder the scanty ruins of a Cistercian abbey, founded, in 11 76, by Robert de St. Martin. The site of the chapel is still discernible, and there are materials for observation in a cone-roofed "oast-house," and a groined crypt. A volume preserved in the Bodleian Library contains a quaint inscription : — "This book belongs to St. Mary of Robert's- SALEHUBST BODIAM. 1 1 BRIDGE ; whoever shall steal or sell it, let him be anathema maranatha." Underneath is the following commentary : — " I, John Bishop of Exeter, know not where the aforesaid house is, nor did I steal this book, but acquired it in a lawful way.'' Despite of the Bishop's ignorance, the Abbey was one of some importance, and its abbot was sent — in company with the Abbot of Boxley, another Cistercian dignitary — to discover the place of Coeur de Lion's detention in Germany ^^ The tourist should here turn aside to Salehtrst and BoDiAM. SALEHURST (population, 2191) lies at the foot of a really bold ascent. Silver Hill, whence the view over Kent and Sussex is one to be enjoyed and remembered. When "Walpole was here in 1752, his dilettanteism warmed into an almost poetical enthusiasm : — " It commands," he cries, " a whole horizon of the richest blue prospect you ever saw." The landscape is not deteri- orated by the occasional passage of a rapid train on the neighbouring rail — a white rolling column of smoke marking its swift transit through grove and over meadow. In this neighbour- hood are Iridge Place (Sir S. Meiklethwaite), Court Lodge (J. Smee, Esq.), and Higham (Mrs. Luxford). The hop-plantations are of considerable extent. The Early English Church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is neat and picturesque. Its situation is eminently agreeable. The font has an oaken cover. The vicarage, valued at c£550, is in the gift of J. Hardy, Esq. Crossing the Eother at Bodiam Bridge, we see the Church on our left, and the Castle of BODLOI (population, 306) to the right, on the river bank. A deep fosse, filled with water, and fed by the Eother, encircles it. A roimd tower fortifies each angle of the area (165 feet by 150) ; the great gateway, approached by a causeway, is conspicuous on the north side ; and in the centre of the other sides rise up stout, square towers. The central court is 87 feet by 78 feet. Over the main gateway, observ^e the armorial bearings of the Bodiams, Dalyngrugges, and "Wardeuxs — into whose hands the castle successively passed. The outer portcullis may still be examined, and -the tourist will find much to interest Iii tti in the remains of the hall, chapel, and kitchen. From the Dalyngrugges the manor and castle passed, by marriage, into the Lewknor family. Sir Lewis Lewknor, its ropresentative, temja. Charles I., was a hot-headed cavalier, whose 18 KTCHINGHAM. etrongliold was taken and dismantled by Sir William Waller's forces. It was built in 1 386, by Sir Edward Dalyngrugge, one of the gallant knights who fooight so brilliantly at Cregy and Poic- tiers. BoDiAM Church, dedicated to St. Giles, at the other end of the village, is an Early English building, of some interest. Thomas Cubitt, Esq., is the patron of the vicarage, valued at £280 per annimi. From Bodiam we may cross the hill to the north of Salehurst, and regaining the high road, descend into ETCHINGHAM (population, 852). The village is one mile distant from the station. Etchingham Church is one of the most interesting in the county. Its general character is Decorated, with a massive square tower, a staircase turret, a roof of unusual height, and windows ornamented with rich flamboyant tracery. The chancel is noticeable for its length — its south door — and Early English font. The founder of the church was one Sir William de Etch- ingham. d. 1387, to whom there is a brass in the chancel (much injured), and an inscription which may be compared with that on " the Black Prince's tomb at Canterbury." An enriched canopy overhangs a brass to a later Sir William, d. 1444, his wife, and son, and the south aisle is adorned with an Etchingham helmet. In the nave a monument, with a bust and a neat Latin inscrip- tion, commemorates Henry Corhovld, the father of the brothers Corbould, the artists. The church has been recently and tastefully restored. A noble yew flourishes in the graveyard. We now move northward, leaving altogether the line of the railway, and at Hurst Green cross the Lewes road. Near the 47th milestone a 'winding road leads off through a pleasantly undulating country (3 miles) to TICEHURST (population, 3148). This populous village is seated on an eminence, and surrounded by fertile hills and valleys, quite 3^ miles distant from the Tice- hurst road Railway Station. The hop-grounds here are extensive ; and a considerable amount of arable land is carefully cultivated. At Stonegate and Flimwell are two small churches of recent date. Much of the venerable wood which anciently gave name to LAMBERHURST. 13 this countryside, and whicli was haunted by the mischievous Saxon fairy Tys, to the great wonder of the woodmen and their households, still clothes the sides of the hills and involves theii combes in heavy shadows. The Church, Perpendicular in style, and dedicated to St. Mary, was completely and carefully restored in 1856. The staiued glass was then iatroduced. Both pulpit and font are curiously and elaborately carved. Observe the brass to John Wyharne, d. 1490, and his two wives — the figures evidently copied from an older brass, perhaps from that to Sir "William de Etchingham, in Etchingham Church. The Dean and Chapter of Canterbury have the presentation to this vicarage. By way of Dane Hill and Fleniwell, we regain the high road, and cross the boundaries of Kent. A mile beyond Stone Crouch we again return into Sussex, and at 40 miles from London, and 23 miles from Hastings, reach LAMBERHURST (population, 1734), i.e., the Lambs' wood. To the right of the Bayham road, a short distance from the village, are the remains of the once celebrated Gloucester Furnace, the largest of the Sussex iron-works, where the iron balustrade round St. Paul's, London, weighing 200 tons, and worth £11,202, was cast. At the time of its com- pletion the foundry was visited by the Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne and the young Duke of Gloucester, M'hence the name. A cottage, formerly the coimting-house, and the mill- pond, vdih. some traces of the foundry walls, are the only vestiges of the once busy iron-works. As we enter the village we pass, on our right. Queen Victoria's Oak, planted by loyal hands on the Queen's marriage- day, February 10, 1840. A few paces farther and we reach the George ]!nn. At the other end of the village, on the lull, stand the Court Lodge (W. C. Morland, Esq.); the Vicarage, a picturesque Elizabethan structure ; and the Church, an interest- ing building, with a fine Perpendicular 'v\indow at the west end. The carved oaken pulpit, date 1630, should be examined. The chancel is separated from the Scotney chapel by an Early English arch, of earlier date than the rest of the church. A noble and venerable yew adorns the garth. The vicarage, valued at £401, is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Rochester. 14 HASTINGS TO BATTLE. There are two hotels at Battle — the Railway and the George In proceeding northwards by railway on this excursion we l^ass Crowhurst Park (2| miles), the ancient demesne of the Sussex Pelhams. It extends as far as the Battle road. On our right, and near the line, stands CROWHURST (j^opulation 591), a pretty village in a well wooded valley, with clumps of dark green yews springing up at every point of vantage. The church, dedicated to St. George, vras re-built (except the tower) by Teulon, in the Decorated style. There are fragments of painted glass in the tower window. In the tracery, and over the door-case, remark the celebrated device of the Pelhams ; a hucJcle, adopted in commemoration of the capture of John of France at Poictiers — a "deed of derring-do," in which Sir John Pelham bore a conspicuous part. A wooden buckle was long suspended from the gallery front. A glorious old yew, 2 7 feet in gu th at four feet from the ground, renders the churchyard memorable. The rectory, valued at .£277, is in the gift of T. Papillon, Esq. South of the church, notice the ancient Court Lodge, 40 feet by 2 3 feet, and Early Decorated in character. It was a parallelo- gram in plan, but the only remains now extant are the east gable, and a porch at the south-east gable. Probably it had a hall on the south side, and was of greater importance than its present ruins indicate. Its erection is ascribed to a certain Walter de Scotney, of Crowhurst, Chief Steward of Clare, Earl of Glou- cester, -who was executed in 1259, on the charge of having poisoned his lord and his lord's brother. [CATSFIELD lies beyond Crowhurst to the north-west. Its Church is small, and not peculiarly interesting. Normanhurst Court in this parish, "built by Sir Thomas Brassey, is worth a visit. It is open to visitors on Tuesdays.] At 6 ndles from Hastings we reach the Battle Station, where we quit the train, and proceed on a pilgrimage to the scene of the great fight which, in its mighty influence upon the destinies of England and the world, can never be over-estimated. A view of the abbey gateway — " one of the finest gate-houses belonging to a religious establishment that remain in England" — and of the ieaf-encompassed church, may be obtained from the railway. Lord Harry Vane is the proprietor, and the property is only thrown open to the public on Tuesdays. BATTLE OF HASTINGS. 16 Before we enter into any minute examination, however, of Battle Abbey, it will be advisable to put together a few details of the great victory which its founder designed it to commemorate. Fuller particulars than we can here afford will be found in Sharon Turner's History, and Thierry's Conquest of the Normans ; while an erudite and most interesting paper in !Mr. M. A. Lower's " Contributions to Literature" should be consulted by the tourist. In our own sketch we shall be greatly indebted to it for topo- graphical information. Our historical notes are principally drawn from the old monastic chroniclers. The reader is also referred to Freeman's " History of the Xorman Conquest," vol. iii. THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS. [A.D. 1065. Duke William landed on the English shore, September 2Sth, 106'i. After resting his men, and fortifying the more important positions in the \'icimty of Hastings, where he had congregated his forces, he marched along the hills from Fairlight to Battle, passing through Crowhurst Park to Hetheland (now called Telham Hill, south of Battle, and distinguishable by a modem farmstead), which he reached on the morning of October 14. Meanwhile, Harold's camp occupied the ascent now cro-^vned by Battle Abbey, was protected by deep trenches, and a breast- work — or chevaux defrise — of osier hurdles. To the east extended broad morasses and an almost impenetrable wood — to the west stretched the fastnesses and jungles of the vast Andreds-leas. Victory was, therefore, imperative for the Normans. The only altematiTe was— not simply defeat, but ruin. The morning dawned all coldly and darkly upon Nonnan and Saxon. Then the half brother of Duke William, Odo, bishop of Bayeux, celebrated a grand mass, and afterwards mounting a large white steed, drew up the cavalry in line.' William di- \ided his army into three divisions or columns ; in front were the light infantry, chiefly armed with arrows ; in the centre, the heavy armed foot ; all the best and bravest of the Nonnan chivalry, with the great duke at their head, formed the last division. Then he addressed his soldiers in stirring words. " Remember,'" said he, " to fight bravely, then shall we conquer and be rich. Wliat I gain ye will gain, what I con- quer ye will conquer ; if I win this land ye shall have it." With a loud shout of " God help us ! " and singing the old Norman song of " Roland," and of " Ronces- valles," the whole army moved impetuously forward. The Engli.sh, chiefly infantry, were dra^s-n up by Harold in the form of a wedge. Firm, motionless, impregnable as were their children at Waterloo and Inkermann, their shields covered their bold hearts, their sturdy arms wielded the ponderous battle-axe. Harold was amongst them, and on foot. His banner was planted near him, and on its folds was blazoned in gold the device of a fighting warrior. When the English saw their monarch in their midst, they burned for the battle, and shouted enthusiastically " The Holy Cross ! the Cross of God ! " At length there comes a rush upon the startled air. The archers have discharged their arrows, and they speed on their deadly way, like the bolts of heaven. Forward press tlie Norman spearmen, forward up the grassy hills, forward to the very de- 16 BATTLE. fences of the Saxons ; and then there are shouts, and groans, and loud outcries of rage, despair, exultation, and agony. From behind their ramparts the Saxons ply, with arms strengthened by patriotic fervour, their heavy battle-axes, and many a stout knight falls beneath the ponderous blow. In vain the Normans fill up the places of their slain, in vain they display the most heroic valour. Did the Saxons possess a reserve, or a body of cavalry, William's hopes of the EngUsh crown verily would be nought. As it is, his sixty thousand men find themselves unable to break through the noble Saxon phalanx, though they outnumber it by one-third. Great is their dismay, heavy are their hearts ; and hark ! there is a cry, uttered first by a few faint voices, but quickly taken up by many others, and soon swelling over the field— "The Duke is fallen 1 Duke WUliam is dead 1" A passion of terror seizes the Norman troops, and they fling down their arms, and take to flight. Then out froro the Tmlee, all maddened with indignation, sweeps Duke WUliam 1 He rushes among the fugitives ; he smites them with his spear. Throwing off his helmet, he turns his flashing brow and glowing eyes upon them, and he cries, " Behold ! I live ; and with God's help I will conquer ! What madness makes ye fly ? How will ye escape ? Those whom, if ye wiUed, ye might slay like cattle, are destroying you. Ye fly from victory — from immortal glory ! Ye rush upon your ruin 1 " These fiery words reanimate the dispirited troops. And now the astute Norman, seeing that it is in vain his best soldiers charge that impenetrable wall, conceives a wary stratagem. His troops pretend to retreat — to fly in confusion ; the Saxons, elate with the hope of victory, pursue them, and break for the first time, their firm array. Alas ! it is their perdition. The main body of the Duke's army charges them in their flank with a horrible slaughter. Twice is the stratagem repeated, t\vice are the Saxons deceived. The great banner of the Fightiug Warrior is seized by some daring Normans. The rival chiefs fight in the inelee like the meanest soldiers. William's half brother, Odo of Bayeux, the warrior priest, in a fit of holy enthusiasm, wields his battle-axe with signal valour. The sun is settiug in the western seas, going downward in a sky as red as blood. Alas ! it is the last sunset that shall shine on the eyes of Saxon Harold ! Even while the issue of the dread fight is still uncertain, a random arrow flashes through the air, and smites the gallant monarch in the brain. He falls!- -the ominous tidings of his death thrill through the Saxon ranks. Their leader dead ; what is left them but despair ? The Normans rush again to the attack ; and, as the moon rises in silver light over the fatal field, it gleams upon WiUiam the Conqueror, and gilds the victorious banners of the Normans 1 Thus was the crown of England lost and won I During the pretended flight of the Normans, and their impetuous pursuit by the Saxons, a terrible incident occurred. " In the plain," says Wace, " was a fosse. The English charged, and drove the Normans before them, till they made them fall back upon tills fosse, overthrowing into it horses and men. Many were to be seen falling therein, rolling one over the other, with their faces to the earth, and unable to rise. Many of the English also, whom the Normans drew down along with them, died there. At no time in the day's battle did so many Normans die as perished in that fosse," which thenceforth was called Mal-Fosse, and has been identified with the rUl flow- ing at the foot of Caldbeck Hill, in the direction of Watlington. " This rivtilet still occasionally overflows its banks, and the primitive condition of the adjacent levels was doubtless that of a morass, overgrown with flags, reeds, and similar bog vege tables."] At the place now called Battle (and formerly Epiton), ^Ir. Lower believes that " no town, or even village, existed in Saxon BATTLE. 17 times. It ^yas probably a down covered witb heatb and furze, — a wild rougb common, witbout bouses, and almost witbont trees. Tbe Saxon Cbroniclers bad no better mode of indicating tbe locality of tbe bostile meeting tban by saying tbat it occmred at tbe Hoary Apple Tree (at tbaere baran apuldran), — probably from some venerable tree of tbat species growing near at band." Tbat portion of Battle town wbicb now lies east of tbe cburcb is called tbe Lake, and sometimes Saxguelac, or Seulac, — i. e., " tbe lake of blood," — so named it is said, by tbe Con- queror, " because of tbe vast sea of gore tbere spilt." It was called Sant Lache, bowever, long before tbe battle of Hastings. In like manner, tbe springs of chalybeate water bereabouts, which form the sources of the Asten, derived their redness from tbe blood of the slaughtered Saxons. "Asten, once distained with native English blood, "Whose soil yet, when but wet with any little rain, Doth blush, as put in mind of those there sadly slain." (Drayton — The Polyolhion.) Caldbeck Hill was corrupted with " Call-back-Hill," because at tbat point the Duke " called back " bis pursuing troops ; " Telham " was made " Tellman," as tbe spot where the con- queror counted his forces ; a large tree, on the London road, is named " Watch Oak ;" and at Standard Hill, either "William or Harold traditionally set up bis standard. But Harold's banner, in truth, was first pitched at Battle, and there it remained until •supplanted by the oriflamme of the conqueror ; and there subse- quently arose that majestic edifice " The Abbey of tbe Battle " — an expiatory offering for tbe terrible slaughter which had taken place. THE ABBEY OF BATTLE. The Abbey of St. Martin de Belli loco — " of the place of the battle " — was erected on tbe very spot where the Norman knights humbled the Saxon " Fighting Man," within ten years of tbat great event. "Very nobly did "William carry out the vow he uttered upon Telham Hill, and richly did he endow bis new foundation. "William Faber, a Norman knight who had heard tbe vow, and had assumed the cowl and robe in the Benedictine Abbey of Marmontier, had the superintendence of its erection. A circle of three miles diameter spreading around the Abbey was B 18 THE ABBEY OP BATTLE. set apart by "William as a '• lowy " or " leuca," over wluch it had unlimited jurisdiction, and peculiar rights and privileges were conferred upon its abbot. " Here William intended to place 1 40 Noman monks, for the fuU discharge of its pious services ; but he was prevented by death from executing the whole of his design. He had endowed it with lands equal to the support of such a number ; and had bestowed on it the privileges of a sanctuary, and a multitude of others usual in those days. He peopled it vnth. religious from the Benedictine monastery of Marmontier in Normandy, and appointed one of them, Robert Blankard, first abbot. He being drowned in his passage, was succeeded by Gaubertus. William (Rufus ?) honoured the church with his presence, probably at its consecration, and offered at the altar his sword and the robe he wore on his coronation" — (Pennant). At the time of its dissolution this wealthy and " mitred " Abbey had fallen into a most unsavoury condition, and the royal commissioner, Layton, wrote of it as " the worst he had ever seen," as inhabited by " the blake sort of dyvellyshe monks." Its annual value was then returned at £880 : 14 : 7, according to Dugdale, or £987 : : 10, according to Speed. The site was conferred upon Sir Anthony Browne, " the same who had the courage to bring to his royal master the fatal message of death," and by his descendant, the fourth Lord Montacute, was sold to Sir Thomas Webster. Sir Anthony Browne converted the monastic buildings into a stately mansion. Fronting the street still stands, in excellent preservation, the Gate-house, late decorated iu style, and pro- bably erected by Abbot Bethynge, temp. Edward IH. The house nearest to it, on the west side, was the Pilgrims' Hospitium, and is called the Almonky ; the range of buildings to the right, now in ruins, was long made use of as the Town-hall. Passing within the entrance, we first inspect the Hall, 57 feet by 30 feet, very lofty, and timber-roofed ; the Dormitory, now converted into a corridor and bed-rooms ; and the Beggars' HalL; a vaulted apart- ment underneath. Next we visit the terrace, traditionally re- puted to have been the Banqueting-room, and overlooking the scene of the great battle. Below it are eight vaults, each of them 29 feet by 14 feet, which had been " the magazines for provisions and fuel in the flourishing days of this great foundation" — (Pennant). Viewing afterwards the east front of the splendid pile, we BATTLE. 19 remark its nine arches enriclied witli Perpendicular tracery. On the site of the flower-garden stood the conventual Church, whose foundations were excavated in 1817, and the apse of whose crypt and the bases of its columns still remain uncovered. " Siste, viator ; heroa calcas :" — it was here that Harold felL "When William of Marmontier and his brethren, some time after the battle, engaged in the work of rearing the abbey, not liking the place on account of its lack of water, they proceeded to build on a more eligible site on the weet side of the hill, at a place called Herst ; but the Conqueror, hearing of what they had done, waxed wroth, ^ and commanded them with all haste to lay the foundation of the temple on the very place where he had achieved the victory over his enemy.' The brethren suggested the inconvenience which would arise from the dryness of the site, when William gave utterance to the memorable promise that, if God would spare his life, he would so amply endow the establishment, that wine should be more! abundant there than water in any other great abbey. The chronicler goes on to inform us that, * in accordance with the King's desire, they wisely erected the high altar upon the precise spot where the ensign of Harold, which they call the Standard, was observed to fall ' " — (Lower). The Early English EEFEC?roRT, with its lancet-windows and buttressed walls, and the vaulted rooms beneath it, must next be visited. One of the latter, the largest, has been called the Scriptorium, or Library, and among the books which Leland found here was Prior Clement of llanthony's highly edifying treatise on " the Spiritual Wings and Feathers of the Cherubim." The Battle Abbey roll of Norman knights, from which Duke William, it is said, called over his band of followers on the morning of the fight — but which, probably, was a later fiction, or, at least, compilation, of the Battle monks — was preserved in the monastery until the Dissolution, and afterwards removed to Cowdray, where it was destroyed in the great fire. Copies of it, but widely varying among themselves, may be consulted in Leland's Collectanea, in Holinshed, and the Normanni Scriptores. On leaving this " hallowed groimd" — ^this spot so sacred in the eyes of every intelligent Englishman — the visitor will join, we fancy, in the reprobation which has been pretty generally expressed of the mean and selfish restrictions here designed, as it would seem, to minister to his especial discomfort. Surely a place Hke this might be left for Englishmen to examine, un- 20 BURWASH. shackled by half a score of absurd conditions, and free from, the constant supervision of a greedy janitor, whose cry, like the horse-leech's daughters', is — " Give ! Give !" Battle Church is Transitional Norman in style, with a few Decorated additions. It contains a little stained glass ; and in the chancel stands the white marble tomb of Sir Anthony Broione, with recumbent effigies of that gallant knight and his wife Alls. Observe the brasses for a knight in armour, d. 1425 ; Sir W. Arnold, d. 1435 ; Robert Clere, d. 1440, and John Wijthines, Deans of Battle, d. 1615. The vicarage of Battle, valued at £500, is in the patronage of Sir A. F. Webster, who, as lay abbot, has the appointment of a dean ; and he, independent of the bishop, has complete sway over the ancient abbatical jurisdiction. The population of Battle is 3500. Battle is famous for its gunpowder-mills, which are situated at some distance from the to\vn beyond the woods. In the neighbourhood the lover of wild blossoms will meet with the field geranium, pansy, rue-leaved saxifrage, ivy crowfoot, corn-pheasant's eye, and cornwort. On our way from Battle to Eobertsbridge we pass SEDLES- COMB on the right, WHATLINGTON (population, 458), and MOUNTFEELD (population, 769), on the left. The latter is agreeably situated in a fair and leafy landscape, surrounded by low but pleasantly-verdurous hills. At 62 miles from London we pass the Eobertsbridge station ; 3 miles further and we reach ETCHINGHAJM. About 3 miles to the right, on the hills, stands BURWASH (population, 2227), a large and busy village, with an interesting Church, noticeable for containing " a curious specimen of the iron manufacture of the fourteenth century, and the oldest existing article produced by our Sussex foundries. It is a cast-iron slab, with an ornamental cross, and an inscription in relief In the opinion of several eminent antiquaries, it may be regarded as unique for the style and period. The inscription is much injured by long exposure to the attrition of himian feet. The letters are Longobardic, and the legend appears, on a careful examination to be — * Orate p. Annema Jhone Coline ' (or Colins). ' Pray for the soul of Joan Collins.*" BRIGHTLING. 21 The living (a rectory and vicarage), valued at £1055, is in the patronage of the Kev. J. C. Egerton. Either from Robertsbridge, Etchingham, or Ticehui'st station (through Burwash) we may visit BRIGHTLING (population, 812), a spot assuredly not to be neglected by the tourist who has a brain and a heart to appreciate " the all-wondrous works of God." Here, as from the minaret of a mosque, one may look out upon the landscape sleeping all fair and serenely in. the sunlight of heaven — upon broad reaches of meadow-land dotted by patient cattle — upon close-clinging branches hung with a myriad leaves — ^upon the shimmering and shining waters of the far-off sea — upon the silver trail of tiny rivulets — upon gray church-tower, and many-gabled manor-house, and quiet hamlet — upon hill and dale, and grove, and garden — a goodly picture, designed and coloured by a hand Divine ! To the north and east spreads the Weald of Kent and Sussex, rich in a thousand changes of light and shade ; to the south-west rises the long bold line of the glorious Sussex downs ; to the south gleams and glitters the Channel, bounded in the distance by a low bank of clouds which denotes the position of the French coast. On the highest point of this elevation, and 646 feet above the sea-level, a neat Obser- vatory stands — erected, some score of years ago, by S. Fuller, of Rose Hill Park. It is said to be visible from the neighbourhood of London, and the lofty columnar land-mark near it is necessarily of great service to the mariners of the Channel. The site of the ancient fire-beacon is curiously named " Browns Burgh." In Brightling Church there is nothing to interest the tourist. Its stained glass is not of special beauty. Its rectorj^, valued at £563, is in the patronage of the Mrs. B. Hay ley. In this neighbourhood, and sheltered in a gap of the downs, lies Rose Hill Park {k. E. Fuller, Esq.). A pleasant road from Brightling leads into the valley of the Rother, and on crossing that stream, winds up the hills to the Ticehurst Road Station. Burwash lies about 1 J nule to the right. The ran now carries us through a fertile country-side — hop- grounds and com fields smiling abundantly around us — to the Wadhurst Station, 1 nule from TVADHURST (population, 2802), and 5 2 miles from London. Observe, as you enter the village — the 22 FRANT BEXHILL. natives, by the way, call it "a town" — Wadhurst Castle (K W. Smyth, Esq.), a pleasant house in pleasant grounds. About 1 mile to the left, on the road to Frant, stands Knole House, an Elizabethan pile of some pretensions. "VVadhurbt Church, dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul, is partly Early English and partly Decorated. It has a lofty shingled spire, and contains no less than 30 grave slabs of Sussex iron. Notice the memorial to " John Legas, OentlemanP The vicarage, valued at £659, is in the patronage of "Wadham College, Oxon. Wadhurst, or Wade-hurst, indicates by its name its posi- tion on a branch of the Rother, in a wooded country. The prefix Wade is identical with the Latin vadum, a ford. Between Wadhurst and Frant we pass through a tolerably long tunneL FEANT (population. 3263) is a large and busy town, with a handsome church, situated on an eminence which overlooks one of the most glorious landscapes in Kent and Sussex — ^from the Sevenoaks hills to the heights of Dover ; from Chatham on the north-east to Leith Hill, south-west. Frant Church, Dungeness, and Beachy Head form the three points of one of the triangles of the Ordnance Survey. The present Church, a quasi-Gothic edifice, was built in 1821-2. The windows contain some good modem painted glass. The rector of Rotherfield has the patronage of the living, a vicarage, valued at £800. Spernfold Place (Hon. P. Ashbumham) and Saxonbury Lodge (R. Davidson, Esq.) are situated in this vicinity. Eridge Park (Earl of Abergavenny) skirts the high road to the Wells. Bayham Abbey is about 3 miles distant. Tunbridge Wells, 3 miles by rail. WIIiCHELSEA. 23 A VISIT TO WINCHELSEA. TMs forms one of the most favourite excursions from Hast- ings. On the way, either by rail or road, we may visit GUESTLING (population, 860), to examine its Church, dedi- cated to St. Andrew, a Transitional-Norman building, with its tower surmounted by a low spire, standing about 300 yards from the road. The Ashburnham chantry is divided from the south aisle by three pointed arches ; the nave from the north aisle by two Norman arches with chevron mould- ings. In the vestry stands an old richly-carved " Flandei's chest." Broomham Hall, a good stone house in a fair demesne, has belonged to the Ashburnham family since the days of Edward IV. At Maxfield, in this parish — an old timbered farm-house — was born Gregory Martin, the translator of the Eheims editiou of the Bible. WINCHELSEA (population, 679)-— Inn: the New Inn- retains but few traces of its former importance ; yet one may discern the lines of its principal seats — ruins of groined vault and crypt — a fragment of a shattered tower — the ivy-grown remains of an ancient chapel — mute but eloquent witnesses to present decay and bygone prosperity. But of all the impoverished old towns along the coast, Winchelsea, as Mr. Thorne has observed, is the best worth visiting. " It owns itself a wreck, and does not try to get rid of the ruins, and put on an appearance of smartness. The wide space which the town originally covered helps now not a little to increase the reverend air it carries as a ruin. You wander about its outskirts among pleasant bye- ways, and are startled to come upon some fragment of a chapel or an old house, when you thought yourself a long way beyond tlie limits of the town." Let us, then, " go visit the reliques of this city," and hear what they have to tell us of the brave and palmy days that are gone, 24 WINCHELSEA. Old Winchelsea occupied a site, about tliiee miles south-east of the present town, upon land which the sea has long since claimed as its own. It was a complete peninsula, connected with the mainland on the west side, and defended by fortifications which were then considered of unusual strength. Like all the old sea- fortresses, it was continually suffering from the depredations of the lawless Norsemen, and its inhabitants, in their turn, became notorious pirates, and ravaged the narrow seas with their swift galleys. Here William I. made his second landing from Normandy in 10G7 ; here, in 1170, disembarked two of the knightly murderers of Tliomas a Becket ; and such was its general prosperity that it furnished, in 1229, ten out of the fifty-seven vessels which formed the contingent of the Cinque Ports. A few years later, and its downfall began. In 1236, the w^aters, for the first time, broke beyond their ancient limits, and rolled in upon the doomed city. Again in 1250, on the eve of October 1st, when the cruel Win- chelsea pirates had boarded a small bark freighted -with pilgrims for the Canterbury shrine, and had foully murdered them, and the sea — as the old tradition runs — flooded the town in ven- geance of the sacrilege. In 1 264-5 it sided A\ith De Montfort against Henry III. — an act of rebellion w^hich Prince Edward terribly pimished, w^hen, on the 4th of August, he took it by assault, and put to the sword almost all its male inhabitants. From this severe blow it never recovered, and another disastrous inundation on the eve of St. Agatha, 1287, completed its ruin, Edward I. now resolved to remove the town to a less exposed site, and the hill of Higham, now rising above the marshes like a natural watch-tower, was selected by the lord-treasurer, Kirkby, Bishop of Ely, despatched for that purpose. The sea bounded it on the east and north, on the south and west convenient roads struck inland to Eobertsbridge and Hastings. The harbour w^as safe and commodious. So the town was laid out ydih. the utmost regularity, and stout walls enclosed an area of 170 acres, sub- divided into thirty-nine squares or quarters. It had three gates, and on the west side a deep fosse or trench. On the south-west rose a castle, adjoining St. Leonard's Church ; in the centre, the stately tower of a church dedicated to St. Thomas k Becket. When completed. King Edward paid it a visit, and reviewed his fieet in its haven. As he rode onward near the Strand Gate, his horse, terrified by the sudden clangour of a windnull, leaped over WINCHELSEA. 25 tlie wall, and his attendants were in sore afeight, believing lie was killed. But the earth had been rendered soft by incessant rain, and the king re-entered the town uninjured by his fall. Here, in 1350, King Edward the Third embarked on board his fleet, and in the offing defeated a Spanish fleet richly laden with Flemish goods on the 29th of August. Nine years later, and during the great Plantagenet's absence in France, 8000 Frenchmen landed, set fire to the town, and slew many of the townsmen who were assembled at mass in the great church. The spot where the unfortunate Winchelsea men were buried is stiU known as Dead Men's Lane. In 1359, it was assaulted by the French fleet of 120 sail, under the Comte St. Pol; and, in 1377 they again sailed along the coast, ravaged Eye, and would have taken Winchelsea, had not Haymo, abbot of Battle, drawn together his men-at-arms and made so gaUant a show that the enemy withdrew discomfited. But in 1380 it was sacked by John de Vienne, and, for the last time, in 1449, was once more set on fire by the French. From the assaults of its enemies it might, however, have recovered, and that its consequence was not inconsiderable may be inferred from the vast vaults and crypts built by the inhabi- tants for storehouses ; but the rapid withdrawal of the sea, and destruction of its harbour, were not to be contended against. When, in 1573, it was visited by Queen Elizabeth, and its citizens and magistrates clothed themselves in scarlet, she was so pleased with its apparent prosperity that she christened it " Little London ;" but, even then, not more than 60 families remained in the town, and it has never since held up its head. It is, as Wesley called it in 1790, when he preached his last sermon under a wide-spreading ash tree adjoining the west side of St. Thomas' Church, the " poor skeleton of ancient Winchelsea," and into its dead bones not even the Genius of the Steam Engine has been able to infuse any Hfe. The notable objects to be here examined are, however, many ; first, there is the old Strand Gate, an Early Decorated structure, which you pass under as you come from Rye — "a picturesque old pile, having a wide gateway between massive round towers. Looking through it from the inside, the town of Rye is seen seated on its hill, as though a picture, set in a heavy antique frame." Landgate, or Pipe Well, or Ferry Gate, on the road to Udimore, is a mere shapeless mass of gray old stone, 26 WINCHELSEA. near whicli a few dull houses straggle. It beai-s a shield with the word Helde inscribed upon it, supposed to be the name of the mayor during whose supremacy it was erected. New Gate, on the Icklesham road, is a mile from any houses, and has no architectural pretensions, but stands in a lovely nook, embowered among trees, and opening into a lane whose banks, in the spring, are flush with primroses. The foundations of the stout earth- work, and the line of the deep fosse, which defended the town, may still be traced between the two latter gates. In the centre of the town stands the Church — or all that remains of it — dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket. The nave is said to have been destroyed by the French in 1380 ; the chancel and side aisles are still extant. The style is Early Decorated, and from its purity deserves particular examination. Remark the exquisite fidelity of the sculptured foliage ; the curious corbel heads ; the rich foreign tracery of the side win- dows ; the piers of Bethersden marble and Caen stone ; the sedilia in the chancel (recently restored) ; the Perpendicular English Windows ; and the light and airy three-bayed choir. In the south aisle is the Alard Chantry, originally the Chapel of St. Nicholas, where particularly observe the noble Alard tombs — one to Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque Ports, 1303 and 1306, with a recumbent cross-legged effigy — the hands clasping a small heart — a lion at the feet, snarling, and half rising as if to spring upon you — and over all a noble arched canopy, adorned with heads of Edward I. and Queen Eleanor. The other to Stephen Alard, grandson of the above, and Admiral of the Cinque Ports, in 1324 — with some fine foliaged orna- mentation, and a canopy resembHng that already alluded to. In the north aisle is the Chantry of John Godfrey, d. 1441, and Maline. his wife. Remark the three canopied tombs, temp. Henry III., with effigies of a mailed templar, a lady, and a young man, robed. In the floor of the chancel is inserted a brass for a priest, d. 1440. The triple gable of the chancel, externally, is luxuriantly shrouded in ivy, and connected with the ruined transept walls. Observe over the porch, which is of later date, the arms of "Win- chelsea. (The to\\Ti confers an earldom on the Finch family.) The rectory, valued at £320, is in the patronage of the Rev. H. Patch. WINCHELSEA. 27 On the south side of the town lies the Friary Park, or the Friars (E. Stileman, Esq.), to which admission is only ohtainable on Mondays. The present house was erected in 1819, when the old Franciscan monastery was taken down. The exquisitely beautiful ruins of the Chapel op the Virgin have happily escaped profanation. It was founded in 1310. The apsidal choir is entered by a noble arch, 26 feet broad. " The Friars'* was the residence, in 1780, of two daring robbers, George and Joseph Weston, one of whom was actually appointed church- vv^arden of Winchelsea, and both brothers living here, under assumed names, on the plunder acquired in their daring excur- sions, were held in much repute. After robbing the Bristol mail they were detected, apprehended, and one of them was hung. James, the novelist, in one of his best romances, has made good use of these circumstances. There are no ruins of the ancient Dominican Priory, founded by Edward 11. The Court House and Gaol have Norman dooiv ways, but are not peculiarly interesting. Of many old buildings there are vestiges, and the vaults are large and curious, but we have tarried as long as may be among the shards and debris of the ill-fated "Winchelsea — twice grievously injured by the sea — and must resume our onward way. Up to the time of the Reform Bill it returned two members to parliament. Heniy Lord Brougham represented it from 1815 to 1830. It is governed by a mayor and twelve jurats. [About tliree miles north-west of the town is UDIMORE (population, 435), for whose name tradition supplies a curious etymology. While its church (a small and ancient building) was being built in a different situation, a spirit-voice, during the lonesome night-hours, came sighing across the wold, " O'er the mere ! O'er the mere ! O'er the mere !" and spirit-hands removed the stones. So the builders took the ghostly hint, erected the church on its present site, and named the village UniMOEE, a corrupted version of the spirit's cry. The perpetual curacy, valued at £100 per annum, is in the gift of T. C. Langford, Esq.] One and a-half mile westward is ICKLESHAM (population, 728), which passed by marriage from the family of Alard to that of Finch. The Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is mainly Norman in style. The north aisle is Early English ; the east window. Early Decorated, and a good example. Observe the capitals of the pillars in the nave, and the round-headed windows of the south aisle There is an altar-tomb for Henry Finch, d. 1493. The vicarage, valued at £715, is in the pat- ronage of the Lord Chancellor. From White Hart Hill, beyond the church, the view of sea and land is broad, magnificent, and constantly chequered with exquisite effects of light and shade. 28 RYE. Hotels: Tho Georee ; Cinque Port Arms. Population, 4220. About two miles to the east of Winchelsea is the ancient town and Cinque Port of Eye, supposed to have been the Portus: Novus of the Romans. At one time the sea came up to its walls, but, owing to its gradual subsidence, the harbour is now about two miles off. The river Rother, after its junction with the Brede and the Tillingham, has its confluence with the sea here. The old to^vn suffered much from attacks of the French in the 14th century, and also from pestilence. A great number of the Huguenots took refuge here in 1572 after the massacre of St. Bartholomew's day, and others resorted hither after the Revo- cation of the Edict of Nantes. The town is an old-fashioned place, and many old houses may still be seen in its narrow streets. The church of St. Mary is a very fine building, partly Norman and partly of the 13th and 14th centuries. The altar- table and clock are said to have been gifts of Queen Elizabeth. The Ypres Tower, so called because built by William de Ypres, Earl of Kent, in the reign of King Stephen (1135-54), stands at the south-east angle of the walls, and is now used as a prison. The Landgate is at the ojiposite comer of the town, and in fair preservation. Rye was the birthjilace (1579) of John Fletcher the celebrated dramatic writer, better known by his association with Beaumont in the annals of English literature. His father Richard was vicar of Rye, and was afterwards made Bishop of London. Here, too, were born Samuel Jeake the antiquary, 1623-1690, who published a work on the Charters of the Cinque Ports, and also his son Samuel, an ingenious but eccentric writer on astronomy and rhetoric. The Jeakes belonged to one of the families of French Refugees, their name being originally Jacques. HASTINGS TO PEVENSEY and EASTBOURNE. At St. Leonard's Juxctjon Station we leave the South- Eastern Railway Company's carriages and jurisdiction, and com- mence our journeys upon that well-known system of lines which is included in the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. The first station (3j miles) is called BEXHILL (population, 2452), but the village is nearly 1 J mile distant ; a quiet, breezy, summery watering-place, in a fertile country, and looking PHVENSBY. 29 out upon the waters of the Channel, which are here gradually retiring from the shore, and have recently given up to the curio- sity of the geologist a singular submarine forest. The village is situated upon high ground. The Church, dedicated to St Peter, has a Norman nave and Early English chancel. An ancient east window of painted glass, containing representations of Henry III. and his Queen Eleanor, was removed from the build- ing by Horace Walpole, through the agency of the Earl of Ash- bumham, and became, for a time, one of the glories of Strawberry Hill. A similar window, with figures of Edward HI. and Philippa of Hainanlt, may now be examined in the Church of HOOE (population, 574), dedicated to St. James, and about 5 miles north- west. The vicarage of Bexhill, valued at ^1291 per annum, is in the gift of the Bishop of Winchester. Hooe vicarage, worth £23b yearly, is the property of the present incumbent. The railway now runs along the shore, which is flat and un- interesting, to Pevensey Station, 6f miles. The long range of the Martello Towers, chiefly occupied as coast-guard posts, will be duly noticed by the traveller. Inland rises the venerable pile of Pevensey Castle. Pevensey Harbour curves boldly to the south-west, and terminates at Langley Point, beyond which is Eastbourne Bay, bounded, in its turn, by the lofty chalk-heights of Beachy Head. PEYENSEY. [Population, 412 — Inn : The Royal Oak. 65 m. from London, by rail. ; 60 m. by road ; 11^ m. from Hastings.] Anderida, the modem Pevensey {an not, and tred, inhabited — the uninhabited), was one of the great Eoman strongholds which, under the government of the Comes Saxomci Littoris, defended the south-eastern coast ; and derived its name from its position ol the borders of the vast Andredes- weald, or " uninhabited forest." The Eomans chose for the position of their camp one of the in- sulated hills which then rose above the watery morasses, and strengthened it with all the appliances suggested by their military knowledge. In 477, ^lla and his Saxons efi'ected a settlement npon the coast near Chichester, and a few years later (a.d. 491) attacked Anderida, captured it, and " slew all that dwelt therein, ^OT was there one Briton left " — a simple but significant passage 30 pEVENSEt. (in the Saxon Chronicle), which Gibbon has commended for its impressive terseness. Anderida afterwards became an important Saxon settlement, and its area was considerably enlarged. The sea, now a mile distant, then beat against its cliffs on the south and east. After the Conquest, Pevensey was bestowed by King William (who had chosen its bay for the disembarkation of his forces) upon Robert, Earl of Mortaigme and Cornwall, his haK-brother, and one of the most potent of the Norman Barons. Recognizing the importance of its position " for one whose interests lay between England and Normandy," he founded here a Castle, at the south- east angle of the ancient to"«Ti. From this point the conqueror embarked, in 1067, for his Norman dominions. During his brief revolt (in 1089) against "William Rufus, Pevensey castle was held by Odo of Bayeux, but famine threaten- ing the besieged, and no succour arriving from Duke Robert, the warrior-priest was compelled to surrender. About 1104, Henry I. granted the manor and barony to Gilbert de Aquila, whence it acquired the name of the " Honour of the Eagle." It remained vriih his respresentatives about a century. Gilbert Earl of Clare, in 1144, defended it with extraordinary resolution against King Stephen, who was forced, after a wearisome siege, to withdraw his forces. It next passed into the hands of the Earls de "War- renne ; was granted in 1269, to Prince Edward (afterwards Edward I.) and his heirs ; remained -with the Crown until Edward III. settled it on John of Gaunt, who conferred the governorship upon the Pelhams ; was threatened with destruction in the reign of Elizabeth ; sold, in 1650, by the Parliamentary Commissioners to John Warr, for ^40 ; escaped these dangers, and partly survived the assaults of time ; and is now a venerable memorial of a long and chequered history, secure in the reverent care of the Duke of Devonshire. Besides the sieges we have enumerated, the old castle was attacked, in 1265, by Simon de Montfort ; and, in 1399, by Richard the Second's forces, who were gallantly repulsed by the garrison under the command of the heroic Lady Pelham — her husband at the time serving under the flag of Bolingbroke. Edmund, Duke of York, found here a prison ; and at a later period, Queen Joanna of Navarre was confined within its walls for four wearisome years, on a charge of having subtilely plotted against the life of her step-son, Henry the Fifth. PEVENSET. 31 Witli these few historical notes to assist us, let us turn to a survey of the ruined stronghold, adopting the results of the IDatient investigations of IVIr. Lower ("Chronicles of Pevensey"), and Llr. Wright ("Wanderings of an Antiquary.") The Castle is situated on gently rising ground, on the edge of Pevensey Level. Its walls are conspicuous from the railway station, whence a bye-lane leads into the road which leads up to the stately entrance towers, the "Decuman Gate" of the ancient Anderida. The width of the opening between them is now 27 feet. Probably, it was an approach to the narrower gateway of the town. The Roman masonry is still in wonderful preserva- tion ; although it has been exposed to the changes of a great part of 2000 years, the mark of the trowel is still visible on the mortar, and many of the facing stones look as fresh as if they had been cut yesterday." The walls are generally 12 feet in thickness, and between 24 and 30 feet in height ; they enclosed an area of about 8 J acres, and on the southern and eastern sides "occupied a sort of low cliff, washed at every tide by the waters of the ocean, or at least a considerable arm of the sea." — {Lower.) Taking the road to the left, outside the northern wall and its massive towers, and passing a modem house of no picturesque design, we reach a fine Roman tower, bearing on its summit a Norman superstructure, which appears to have been intended as a watch tower, and commands an extensive view of the principal approaches to this important fortress. " There is a striking con- trast between the rough masonry of the Norman superstructure and the workmanlike finish of the Roman building below. The latter is here extremely well defined. It consists of a regular facing of squared stones, with the usual banding courses of bricks (a very peculiar characteristic of Roman masonry in this country). The interior is filled up with irregular materials, among which liquid mortar was thrown, and the latter (in which we observe at once the mixture of pounded tile so peculiar to the Roman mortar) has become harder than the stone itself." In one of the towers a large breach in the Roman masonry has been filled up with the usual Norman " herring-bone work." At the south-east comer the Norman castle stands on what seems to have been an artificial momid, occupying an area of nearly an acre and a haK, and forming an irregular pentagon round a large mound, so that the small interior court is much higher than the ground outside. The gateway, flanked by twc 32 PEVENSEY CASTLE CHURCH HARBOUR. towers, nearly faces the Deciunan gate, and have e\ddently been imitated by the mediaeval architect from the Roman models before him. The east tower formed the Keep ; the north-west may nave been the governor's residence. Two sides were defended by a moat, over which was thrown a drawbridge. The ancient Chapel, excavated in 1852, stood within the court, to the right of the north-west tower. A rude Korman font, and three skeletons were found here. The castle well is 50 feet deep. Some portions of Robert of Mortaigne's Castle may plainly be detected ; but most of the ruins exhibit the characteristics of the Transition Norman and Early English styles. From the Castle we descend to Pevensey Church (dedicated to St. Nicholas, the favourite Norman Saint), an Early English building, with a nave of Decorated character (restored). The tower stands at the east end of the north aisle. There is a noble chancel-arch, and the clustered columns have richly foliated capitals, but the interior has been disfigured by modern innovations, and is in a somewhat mutilated condition. It con- tains a monument and effigy for John TVheatleij, temp. James I. The vicarage, valued at £780, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester. Pevensey Harbour was formed by the estuary of the river Ashbourne, navigable for small vessels as high as Pevensey Bridge in 1720, but, in Pennant's time "quite choked a mile distant from the shore, and nothing left but a narrow drain, the receptacle of a few boats." Here the landing of Julius Caesar has been fixed by Professor Airey, who has supported his theory by ingenious but unsatisfactory argimients. Here the disembar- cation of William and his Normans did take place, his six hun- dred vessels filling all the coast from Pevensey to Hastings ; and he himseK stumbling forward as he set his foot upon the shore. With what curious eyes must the bold adventurers have looked upon the glittering cliffs, the undulating downs, the vigorous woods, the already venerable walls of the ancient Anderida, as with glancing spear and glittering axe they prest forward towards that memorable plain where a nation's destiny was to be sealed in blood ! Pevensey was, and still is, a member of the Cinque Ports, and its corporation seal bears the usual Cinque Ports' escocheon. Here was born^ or, at least, for some years resided, and practised as a physician, Andrew Borde, the original " MeiTy Andrew," and EASTBOURNE. 33 author of the famous " Tales of the Wise Men ol Gotham." We owe to him the anecdotes of the humble -minded magistrate, who protested that " though Mayor of Pevensey he was but a man ;" of the " freemen of the port" who drowned an eel as a mode of capital punishment calculated to be highly effectual ; and sundry other " merrie jestes" which our space forbids us to recapitulate. Near the Pevensey railway station, and, as its name indicates, west of the castle, is situated WESTHAM (population, 761), with a church, dedicated to St. Mary. The south wall of the nave has Xorman characteristics, and the south transept is entered through a Norman arch. The rest of the building is Perpendi- cular. Some portion of the rood-loft remains, and the upper por- tions of the east and north-east windows contain old stained glass. The vicarage, valued at £347, is in the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire. At Langney, \^ mile south, moulder the desolate ruins of a grange-chapel formerly belonging to Lewes Priory. Two small forts have been erected at Langley Point. The next station we reach is at Polegate, whence diverge short branches to Hailsham, on the north, and Eastbourne, south. WILLINGDON (population, 678) is about 1 mile south of Polegate. The Church is small and uninteresting. Beyond it, even to the very line of the rail, stretches the Park. EASTBOURNE. Hotels : The Cavendish, Grand, Queen's (near the pier), Albion, Anchor, Burlington, Marine, Sussex, South Down, Gilbert Arms, and Terminus. This elegant and modern watering-place consists, first, of SouTHBOURNE, a part lying back, away from the shore, contain- ing the chief shops, some good villas, the theatre, and other buildings ; and, secondly, Sea-Houses, the principal and most fashionable portion, facing the beach, where are the baths, chief hotels, and lodging-houses. These form an extremely neat and clean assemblage of houses in rows and terraces, with a fine es- planade ; the whole looking out upon a truly magnificent view c 34 EASTBOURNE. of tlie ocean, including Beacliy Head, in the immediate vicinity. The Eastbourne sands are at low tide dry and extensive, the water is clear, and there are plenty of bathing-machines. The climate of the place is exceedingly healthy, a proof of which may be gathered from the Registrar-General's Report which shows that the rate of mortality for each thousand of the popu- lation here is 15, or 10 less than the general average of London (25), and 1 lower than the lov.'est of all our other watering-places. The drainage is on the most approved plan, and the water supply excellent. The Grand Parade, which is a beautiful marine treble- terraced walk, forms an agreeable and fashionable promenade. It consists of an upper and lower promenade, connected at inter- vals by flights of steps, and the intervening slopes are planted with shrubs and evergreens. From the Anchor Hotel on the N.E., it stretches for 1;^ mile south-westT^ards to the Wish Tower Gardens, and extends inland to the village of Meade, the whole course measuring 2|- miles. Wish Tower an old Martello, is situate on a hill laid out in pleasure-grounds, affording a delightful view, and in its immediate vicinity is Devonshire Park, the gift of the Duke, covering an area of 12 acres. The pier 1000 feet long, forms an agreeable resort. East- bourne once noted for its quiet, and the absence of hackneyed watering-place gaieties, has assumed larger proportions of recent years. The assembly-rooms and ball-room, a theatre, library, and reading-rooms, are the chief sources of amusement. There is also a literary institute. In 1851 the population amounted to 5795, while in 1881 it was 21,977. Eastbourne Church (St. Mar/s) is a Transition-Norman and Early English structure, measuring 124 feet by 50. The lofty tovrer contains a peal of six bells, of Sussex metal, cast at Chid- dingly in 1651. There are three Perpendicular sedilia in the chancel, an Easter sepulchre (also Perpendicular), and a brass to /. Hynrj, d. 1445. The chancel-arch is round with Norman mouldings. The north chancel is divided from the south by Transition-Norman piers and arches. In the former stands a monument to Gilbert Davies, President of the Royal Society, who long resided at Eastbourne Place. St. Saviour's Church, designed by Street, is a prominent BEACHT HEAD. 35 GotHc edifice of red brick and Batli stone, surmounted by a spire 175 feet bigb. St. Gregory's Chapel, tbe old Parsonage House, tbe curious vaulted room, believed to be tbe remains of an alien priory tbat was situate bere, and subterranean passage at tbe Lamb Inn, are objects wortby of note by tbe tourist. A circular redoubt, erected in 1804, near tbe barracks on St. An- tbony's Hill, mounts twelve guns, and can accommodate 400 men. Mortimer, tbe painter, was born at Eastbourne in 1741, and passed bis early years in consorting witb tbe bold smug- glers and studying tbe wild scenery of tbis picturesque coast, the haunt of numerous sea-birds, and where the crambe maritima, drop wort, and dwarf orchis flourish in vigorous growth. The ring-dotterel, too, deposits her three eggs, scarcely to be distinguished from the surrounding pebbles. Eastbourne Bay bas witnessed an unwonted spectacle — a naval battle between the English and Dutch fleets, as allies, against tbe French, and the defeat of the former. This was in 1690. The Pevensey plain, as far as Hastings, is full of interesting associations connected with the Conquest. Delightful excursions may be made to the ruins of Pevensey Castle, where William the Conqueror landed, September 28, 1066, 4 miles distant ; Hurstmonceux Castle, 9 miles ; Lewes, the county town, with tbe ruins of its old castle and priory, about 1 7 miles by train. At Holywell, a short distance, there are chalybeate springs, possessing somewhat similar qualities to those at Clifton. In the neighbourhood of Eastbourne the Romans had a settle- ment. On the road to Pevensey, 1^ mile east, a tesselated pavement and batb were discovered towards tbe close of the last century. South-east of Trinity Church the foundations of a Eoman villa were excavated in 1858. The remains of numerous tumuli and of circular encampments may be traced on the Downs. Beachy Head (575 feet above sea level) raises its glowing block of chalk about 3 miles south-west of Eastbourne, and is a favourite excursion-point of the Eastbourne tourists. The pro- spect is sublime : eastward it extends to Hastings and Dungeness, westward to Brighton and Worthing. Selsea Bill may also be seen, it is said, on a cloudless day. But not for the mariner 36 BE ACHY HEAD. does this precipitous cliff wear so goodly an aspect. It is associated in his mind with tales of fearful wrecks — not so frequent now that our charts are more skilfully constructed, and the science of navigation is better understood, but still numerous enough to render Beachy Head " a word of fear." The Dalhousie, a fine East Indiaman, was lost here, October 24, 1853, and only one life was saved. Off Beachy Head, June 30, 1690, was fought the great fight between the combined English and Dutch fleets of 56 sail, under Arthur, Farl of Torrington, and the French, of 82, under the Comte de Tourville. The Dutch behaved with great valour, and were only saved from annihilation by Torrington's manoeuvres, who contrived to interpose his fleet between them and the French. The combined fleets then took shelter in the mouth of the Thames. Torrington was tried by court-martial, but acquitted, and, hoisting his flag in his barge, went up the Medway in triumph. He was, however, deprived of his commission by E^g William, — wroth at the loss which his beloved Dutch had sus- tained, — and was never again employed. A throng of wings immediately starts out of the chinks and crannies of this great ocean-wall at the sound of a bugle or mus- ket. Guillemots, razor-bills, choughs, puffins, and other sea- fowl resort in vast numbers to this lonesome headland. Sam- phire grows here in profusion. At Belle-Toute, 1 mile west — a lofty promontory flung farther out into the sea than Beachy Head — stands a lighthouse, erected in 1831. Beneath the brink of the cliff are a staircase and a cavern, in two compartments, hollowed out of the solid rock, as a means of escape for ship^vrecked seamen, by Jonathan Darby, a former vicar of East Dean (1715-28), who also found them, it is said, a convenient refuge for himself from the tongue of a shremsh wife. On one occasion a hurricane drove a Dutch galliot against this point, and fixed her bows in the mouth of one of the caverns (now known as " Parson Darby's Hole "). Twelve Bailors were rescued by the intrepid pastor. BiRLiNG Gap, 1^ mile west, was formerly defended by an arch and portcullis. Near this point Duguay Trouin, the bold French privateer, with 9 sail of the line, and some smaller vessels, captured the Hampton Court and Grafton men-of-war, and their convoy, and drove ashore the Royal Oak. At this " gate " or opening in the cliffs, the tourist may ascend to the high land. HAILSHAM MICHELHAM. 37 The beautiful Sussex downs stretch from Beachy Head to the Hampshire border in an undulating line, 53 miles in length. [Just beyond Beachy Head, in a deep quiet valley, which is reputed to have been the scene of the first interview between King Alfred and the learned Asser, lies EAST DEAN (population, including Friston, 446). " Ibique ilium," says Asser, •'in villa regia, qua dicitur Dene, primitus vidi;" but some authorities place the meeting-place at East Dean, near Chichester. The Old Church is surmounted by a tower, and has a heaAy round chancel arch ; its pulpit dates from 1623. Friston Place is a picturesque Tudor mansion. The cliffs beyond this point are broken into several conspicuous eminences, known as The Seven Sistei-s, haunted by the peregrine falcon, the raven, and the kestrel. WEST DEAN (population, 129) is a pretty village at the head of a narrow chalk valley, which opens out upon the river Cuckmere. Its Chuech is Norman, with Perpendicular windows ; there is a fine tomb in the chancel. The Paksonage House, a fourteenth century building, now divided into several small tenements, is partly built of stone and partly of timber, A newel stau-case leads to the upper story, where an ancient fire-place is buUt into the wall. The rectory is valued at £102, and is in the Duke of Devonshire's patronage. At JEVINGTON (population, 325) a Norman Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has a noble and massive square west tower. The rectory, valued at £309, is pre- sented to by the Duke of Devonshire.] From the Polegate Station, a branch line, 3 miles to the north, conducts the tourist to the quiet market-town of HAILSHAM (population, 1825), one of the largest cattle-markets in Sussex. Its Church is dedicated to St. Mary, is mainly Perpendicular in style, and has a low pinnacled tower of more than ordinary interest. The vicarage is valued at ^356. Hailsham is a place of considerable acti\dty on Wednesday, the market-day, and can boast of three decent inns — the Terminus, the George, and the Crown. The tourist ^\ill find it a convenient point from which to visit Hellinglt, Michelham, and Hurstmonceux. ^P° MICHELHAJSI, 2 miles west, is interesting from its ruined Priory, — a house of Augustinian canons founded by Gilbert de Aquila, temp. Hemy HI. It formed a stately quadrangle, which was encircled by a broad deep moat, fed by the river Cuckmere, and noted as a favourite resort of the stealthy otter. Three fish-stews, supplied by the moat, are still in good condition. A drawbridge, now replaced by a permanent bridge, was the only approach to the priory. The remains of most importance are the square three-storied Gateway Tower, the Crtpt, now made use of as a daiiy, and the Canon's Room, or, as it is usually called, the Prior's chamber. Observe in the latter a curious stone fire-place, with 38 HELLINGLY. its projecting funnel, and a pair of andiions, of Sussex iron, ter- minating in human heads, temp. Henry VII. Near the back door of the present farm-house, some Early English arches seem to indicate the position of the Priory Chapel. The large par- lour is Elizabethan. An arched passage, running parallel with the crypt— caUed Isaac's Hole — may have been the monastic Laterna, or place of punishment. We may commend to the sketcher the old Priory-mill, with its background of venerable trees, as an exquisite " bit." The farmstead is abundantly favoured by the residence of a complete colony of the birds of IVIinerva. ^° HELLINGLY (population, 1 50 1 ), 2 miles to the north, on the left of the Mayfield road, is a pleasantly situated village, with a gray old church, and many picturesque cottages. The vicarage, valued at £420, is in the patronage of the Earl of Chichester. HELLINGLY Park, formerly in the possession of the Pelhams, was the scene of a hunting fray in the reign of Henry VIH., unhappily attended "with fatal consequences. Holinshed relates the incident with his usual graphic simplicity : — " There was executed at St. Thomas Waterings three gentlemen — John Mantel, John Frowde, and George Roydon. They died fur a murther committed in Sussex in company of Thomas Fiennes, Lord Dacre of the South ; the truth whereof was this. The said Lord Dacre, through the lewd persuasion of them, as hath been reported, meaning to himt in the park of Nicholas Pelham, Esq. of Laugh- ton, in the same county of Sussex, being accompanied with the said Mantel, Frowde, and Roydon, John Cheney and Thomas Isley, gentlemen, Richard Middleton and John Goldwell, yeomen, passed from his house of Hurstmonceux the last of April, in the night season, toward the same park, where they intended so to hunt ; and coming into a place called Pikehay in the parish of Hellingly, they found one John Busbrig, James Busbrig, and Richard Sumner standing together ; and as it fell out, through quarrelling, there ensued a fray betwixt the said Lord Dacre and Ins company on the one part, and the said John and James Busbrig and Richard Sumner on the other, insomuch that the said John Busbrig received such hurt that he died thereof the second of Llay next ensuing. Whereupon as well the said Lord Dacre as those that were -with them, and divers others likewise that were appointed to go another way to meet them at the said HURSTMONCEUX. 39 park, were indicted of nuirther ; and the seven and twentieth of June tlie Lord Dacre himself was arraigned before the Lord Audley of Walden, then Lord Chancellor, sitting that day as High Steward of England, with other peers of the realm about him, who then and there condemned the said Lord Dacre to die for that transgression." He was executed at Tyburn June 29th, " sore lamented by many," and not without suspicion that "his great estate, which the greedy courtiers gaped after, caused them to hasten his de- struction" — {Camden), The estates, however, were so closely entail- ed that they did not fall into the hands of these rajjacious coi-morants. An ancient boundary-stone, near Hellingly Park, is known as the Amber-stone. "As amler is a word often found connected with Druidical remains, this stone may have been held sacred by our Celtic ancestors" — {Lower). A pleasant walk of about 4 miles will take the tourist from HaUshamto HURSTMONCEUX (population, 1292), whose ver- durous bin looks out upon a rich and fertile vaUey, while away to the north and east sweep the glorious rounded Downs. Its Church, dedicated to AU Saints, is Early English, and consists of a nave, aisles, chancel, and north-western tower surmounted by a shingled spire. Its principal memorials are — a fine brass to Sir William Fiennes, d. 1402 ; a canopied tomb of Caen stone and Petworth marble, finely sculptured, '^ith recumbent effigies to Thomas Fiennes, second Lord Dacre, d. 1534. The east window, picturing scenes in the life of our Saviour, is a memorial to the late learned and virtuous Archdeacon Hare, d. 1855, rector of Hurstmonceux for many years, of active benevolence and unaf- fected piety. A monument by Kessels, a young Belgian sculptoi, commemorates !Mrs. Naylor of Hurstmonceux Place, the mother of Archdeacon Hare. The font is Decorated. In the quiet shadowy churchyard sleep, under the dark-green branches of a magnificent yew. Archdeacon Hare, his estimable brother Marcus, and others of their kith and kin. Here the tourist will do well to pause, and sm^vey the glorious landscape of dale, and down, and valley, and meadow, of lofty cliffs and bright shimmering sea which spreads around and beneath him. Here John Sterling was Archdeacon Hare's curate, in the earlier years of his incumbency. Sterling died, and was buried, at Bonchurcb, in the Isle of Wight. 40 flURSTMONCEUX CASTLE. A fine avenue, wHch no longer exists, formerly connected the church with HURSTMONCEUX CASTLE. The present path, however, is a sufficiently pleasant one, and as the pedestrian pursues it, he may prepare himself for his visit by turning over Horace Walpole's lively account of a pilgrimage to Hurstmonceux in his correspondence vnth Mr. Bentley (vol. ii. p. 300, of Cun- uingham's edition). Hurstmonceux derives its name from Waleran de Monceux, its first Norman proprietor, from whose representative it passed by marriage into the hands of Sir John de Fiennes. Sir Roger de Fiennes, one of the heroes of Agincourt, and treasurer to Henry II., built the castle in a quiet leafy hollow on the site of a camp formed here in 1 1 62 by Henry II. It remained with the Dacres of the south until 1593 ; and passed from the Lennards early in the eighteenth century, to the Naylors, allied (by marriage) to the Hares. Having fallen into considerable decay, the Rev. Richard Hare, in 1777, called in that destructive architectural doctor, j\Ir Wyatt, who advised the demolition of the interior, and employed its materials in the repair and enlargement of the present mansion, situated on the west side of the Park, and kno\vn as Hurstmoxceux Place (H. M. Curteis Esq.) The position of Hurstmonceux is remarkable for its quiet beauty. It lies in a coombe or valley, from which, on every side, rise up low wooded hills. A dry moat surrounds it, and beyond flourishes a grand old grove of vigorous chesnuts. Everj^where a soft and fresh green sward springs, as it were, beneath the \dsitor's feet ; a luxuriant growth of ivy and hazel-bush lends to the gray walls an effective colouring. The building itseK — one of the very first English edifices constructed of brick — is of singular interest. It retains the general form of a castle, with the battlemented towers, machicolations, drawbridges, moat, and other offensive and defensive appliances proper to one ; but ha^^g also something of comfort, and even ornament, combined with due regard to its belligerent character. It is, in fact, the inter- mediate luik between the ancient castle and the modern manor- house. It belonged to a transition state of society. It was strong enough, probably, to have -wdthstood the casual attack of a wandering band of marauders, but would have been utterly in- capable of enduring a regular siege — ( Thome). It encloses three courts ; a large, and two small ones. In the south front rises the MAIN-GATEWAY, a noble feature ; above it is sculptured the HURSTMONCEAUX CASTLE, NEAR PEVENSEV ANCIENT SEAT OF THE FIENNESES, LORDS DACRE. WILMINGTON. . 41 Fiennes escocheo7i, and their device, tlie alaune, or wolf-dog. At each, angle stands an octagonal tower, 84 feet liigh, sur- mounted by beacon-turrets, which command a fine view of the distant channel. On the right side of the south front, beyond the gateway, stretches a long room, which Grose represents as in- tended for a stable in case of a siege. The Hall measures 54 feet by 28 feet. The Kitchen was placed on the west ; the great oven in the bake-house is 14 feet in diameter. The south- east front contained a small Chapel, whose stone-pillared oriel still remains. None of the coloured glass which Walpole saw is now in existence. The south-east tower was used as the Dungeon, giving " one a delightful idea of living in the days of soccage, and under such goodly tenures" — (Walpole). The ancient drawbridge has been replaced by a rude wooden bridge. In a room over the Porter's Lodge, called " the Drummer's Hall," flourishes " the violet of a legend ; " shewing how, at midnight, the roll of a drum echoed through the sUent ruins, and how that an invisible drummer guarded an invisible chest which was laden with an in\i.sible treasure. The drum roll was, in fact, a rascally gardener's signal to certain smugglers who had made the castle their favourite haunt. Addison founded his indiflerent comedy of " the Drummer " upon this tradition. The plan of the castle is nearly a square, 200 feet on the north and south, and 214 feet on the east and west sides. Both hall and kitchen are lofty, and there is no upper storey above them. The visitor to Hurstmonceux, desirous of fuller details than we have here afforded, may consult with advantage the interest- ing monograph by the Hev. E. Venables, — " Hurstmonceux and its Lords." Some exquisite wood-car\ings by Grinling Gibbons are pre- served at Hurstmonceux Place. They were removed from the Castle, where they were seen and admired by Walpole. POLEGATE STATION to LEWES. The railway now runs along a fertile country, with the noble heights of the Downs terminating the prospect to the south. Upon their slopes, at 3 J miles from the Polegate station, and conspi- cuous from it, stand the gray old church and quiet village of WILMINGTON (population, 288). Upon the hills beyond are traces of the fosse and vallum of a semicircular camp, enclosing 42 WILMINGTON. an area of about 12 acres. On tlie south-east side of the Downs may be traced the outline of a rude gigantic figure, popularly known as " the Long Man of Wilmington," 240 feet long, and holding in each hand a pole of the same length. " It appears that the outline was originally incised through the turf, leaving the chalk bare, but as it has not been kept scoured, Like the famous White Horse in Berkshire, the depression has become so slight as to be invisible upon the spot, and it is only when the light falls upon it, at a particular angle, that it can be seen from a distance. At Cerne Abbas, in Dorsetshire, there is a similar figure, 180 feet long" — {Loioer). As both these figures occupy a slope on a chalky down, immediately opposite a religious liouse, they have been sup- posed to be the work of the monks, but more probably tlieir origin may be traced furtherback. Thelongman has been recently scowecZ. Wilmington Priory was founded by Eobert, Earl of Corn- wall, lord of Pevensey, and bestowed upon the Benedictine Abbey of Grestein, near Honfleur. Its remains have been converted into a farm-house. The timbered roof is probably ancient ; the chapel has been secularized into a sitting-room ; the cellar is still supported by its old hexagonal pillar. At Well Holes, about 400 yards distant, is the monastic fish-pond. The Church is mainly Norman, and cruciform in plan. The arches and pillars of the south transept, and many of the "udndows, are fashioned out of the chalk of the district. A goodly yew, 20 feet in girth, adorns the churchyard. The vicarage, valued at XI 11, is in the patronage of the Duke of Devonshire. [In the valley beyond Wilmington, and on the banks of the Cuckmere, is a com- plete cluster of \illages, with gray old churches, and neatly ordered cottages, — FOLKINGTON (population, 191); LULLINGTON (population, 26); and LIT- TLIXGTON (population, 105), ancient Saxon settlements, which may probably aflford the tourist much gratification.] l^Trom the BERWICK STATION, ^ miles beyond Pole- gate, we can best visit Alfriston and Seaford. ALFmSTON (population, 576) — i. ^., Aluricestone, o^ Aluric^s town — is about 3^ miles from the BeiTick Station, and lies at the foot of the Downs, on the west bank of the small stream of the Cuckmere. Its ancient church is dedicated to St. Andrew. The Star Inn dates from the early part of the sixteenth century, and may have been resorted to by the devout on their way to the shrine of St. Richard of Clii Chester. Mitred figures of St. ttEAPORD. 43 Giles, with a hind, and St. Julian, the patron saint of wayfarers, are supported by wooden brackets on each side of the entrance. Other rude figures will reward the iudustrious investigation of the curious. A beam in the parlour bears a shield, lettered I.H.S. The vicarage, valued at ^175, is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. SEA FORD (population, 1357), a member of the Cinque Port of Hastings, is, probably, the ancient Mercredeshurn (Moer-cryd, the sea-ford), the site of Saxon Ella's victory in 485. It stands on the right bank of the Chickmere. The old town was placed on the marge of the haven — formed by the junction of the Ouse with the Channel — which has been long filled up. The position, however, of the modem hamlet, with a bold sweep of sea before it, and lofty hills rearing their rounded crests behind it, is so pic- turesque that we may anticipate for it a long and prosperous career. The last Martello-tower, No. 74, stands on the neighbouring shore, and one of Henry the Eighth's circular forts is placed under the cliff. Collins has made the scene the subject of one of his finest sea-scapes. The history of Seaford is easily summed up : it was often attacked by the French, temp. Edward III., and was almost de- populated by " the black death." Claude d'Annebault, and Ms fleet, attempted to surprise it in 1545, but were repulsed by Sir Nicholas Pelham : — " What time the French sought to have sackt Sea-ford This Pelham did re'pel ^em back aboord." On December 7, 1809, seven merchantmen and their convoy, H. M. Brig Harlequin, were wrecked upon this shore with a fearful loss of life. The men of Seaford and the neighbouring villages were, in the bad old times, daring \vreckers, and the unfortunates who escaped from the perils of the sea fell into a far more terrible danger. Congreve has alluded to their rapacity in bitter lines : — " The Sussex men that dwell upon the shore Look out when storms arise and billows roar, Devoutly p'-ayiug with uplifted hands, That some well-laden ships may strike the sands, To whose rich cargo they may make pretence, And fatten on the spoils of Providence." 44 SEAPORD. Seaford Church is dedicated to St. Leonard, and is mainly Norman and Earl EngUsh in its architectural character. The central coliunn of the south aisle is carved with a representation of the crucifixion, and above it stands a rude sculpture of St. JMichael and the Serpent, found in the churchyard some years ago. A tombstone, graven with a cross, is inserted both in the north and south walls. The vicarage, worth £167, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Oxford. A paper in the first volume of the " Sussex Archaeological Collections " embodies a quaint story of a certain monk, Balger, of the priory of Bergue St. AVinox, whose vessel having been forced by stress of weather into Seaford Harbour, he contrived to rifle the neighbouring monastery of St. Andrew of the bones of St. Lewuina, one the early Sussex apostles. The chronicler en- thusiastically and antithetically extols him as " fidelis fur et latro bonus " — a faithful rogue and an honest thief ! Puck Church Parlour (from the popular Sussex " pharisee," the fairy Puck), a curious ledge of rock, jutting out beneath the brink of the cliff, east of the town, can only be reached by a dangerous path from above, and is now the sheltering-place of some wise old Reynards, who here have little reason to dread the huntsman or his hounds. 1^° From Seaford the tourist may keep along the coast to Newhaven, 2 miles, and thence, by the cliffs, proceed to Brighton. The next station is at GLYNDE (population 323), lying, as its name — Glyn, Celtic — indicates, in a vale at the foot of the chalk-downs. The Church was rebuilt, 1765, by Trevor, bishop of Durham, and in its frigid classicism is to be regarded as a warning by young architects. An obelisk in the churchyard is adorned with an inscription, from the pen of Mrs Hemans, to the two sons of Wedderburn, the great lawyer. The vicarage, worth £132, is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Chichester. On the left of the line, 1 mile north, spreads the fair estate of Glynde Place (Lord Hampden), and to the right, 1 mile south-east, stretches the woodland scenery of Eirle Place (Vis- count Gage). Both are picturesque Elizabethan houses, seated at the base of the Downs, which at Firle Beacon rise to an elevation of 820 feet. West Firle (population, 701) has a good sized church, on the left of the road to Alfriston. The vicarage is BEDDINGHAM LEWES. 45 annexed to that of BEDDIXGHA^I (population, 321), is worth £345, and in the patronage, alternately, of the Bishop, and the Dean and Chapter of Chichester. Passing swiftly through the valley which lies between the two walls of chalk-hills, separated by the Ouse — *' Here Ouse, slow-Tvinding through a level plain Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er, Conducts the eye along his ruinous course, Delighted" — we are borne onward to the beautiful and ever memorable town of LEWES. rPopulation, 6017.— Hotels : The Wliite Hart, the Star, the Bear, the Cro-wn. 51 miles from London, ty road ; 50 miles by rail. — 26 miles, by rail, from Hastings ; 7 miles from Brighton ; 7 miles from Xewhaven.] ^' Conmiimication with Brighton, Newhaven, Uckfield, Eastbourne, and Hastings by rail. With Ringmer by omnibus. There are also conveyances between the town and railway station. LEWES is the county to-^Ti of Sussex, though Chichester may be regarded as the capital of the western division. It lies chiefly on the right bank of the small river Ouse, on the slope of a chalk- hni, one of the glorious south downs, and others of that famous range are raised around it so as to shelter it, on almost every side. Its hilly uneven site gives to it a peculiarly picturesque ap- pearance ; it seems an old town, though without many very old edifices, and is distinguished by an air of decorous respectability and sombre importance. Around its castle and priory it clusters, as if it felt that all its consequence was due to them ; and whether viewed from the Cliff, from the high groimd of Southover, or from its own High Street, it presents a singular and romantic character, not, to our thinking, equalled by that of any other English town save Durham. It principally consists of one street — the High Street — winding from St. Anne's Church, east, to the foot of Cliffe HlQ, west, about three-quarters of a mile, where it throws out two branches. One, named South Street, leads to Glynde, Firle, Alfriston, and Eastbourne ; the other, I^rALLiXG Street, to Uck- field, East Grinstead, and so to London. Some smaller thorough- fares diverge from the High Street on each side. Of these we 46 LEWES. need only notice Market Street, leading from the brow of School Hill into East Street, which runs parallel to School Hill, but with an easier descent, and is better adapted for equestrians and carriage-folk. Quitting the railway terminus — the focus of trains from Lon- don, Hastings, Tunbridge, and Newhaven — and turning to the right, we see the bold ascent of Cliffe Hill before us, forming the eastern boundary of the Ouse valley. The suburb of the Cliffe extends over the marshy plain on the opposite side of the river, and is connected with the High Street by a neat bridge of stone. Looking to the left, we notice School Hill connected with the central part of the High Street, " which is built on a nearly level terrace of inconsiderable breadth." Here are situated the Cro^vn, Star, and White Hart inns ; the County Hall ; the Markets ; the Castle Gateway and Keep ; and St. Michael's Church. At the foot of School Hill formerly stood the east gate of the town, com- memorated in a street to the right called East Gate Street ; while that to the left, leading to Southover, is named Friar's Walk, "in reference to the monastery of Grey Friars that anciently occupied the adjacent meadow." Before we enter upon an examination of the notable antiqui- ties that " do renown this city," let us, in accordance with our custom, glance rapidly at its interesting annals. There is abundant proof of its early importance. The locali- ties in its neighbourhood have chiefly British names. Eoman urns and coins have been found here ; numerous earthworks and encampments ; and some antiquarians have supposed it to be the site of the mysterious 3{utuantonis of the geographer Ravennas. It was strongly fortified during the reign of Alfred, and in Athelstane's time possessed two mints. Specimens of Lewes coinage have been dug up at Milton Court 9 miles from Lewes, This place formed one of the royal demesnes. From Domesday Book we learn that the king's rent and tolls in Lewes amounted yearly to £Q : 13 : l|-, and he had 127 burgesses who were his immediate vassals ; and from the same authority we gather the following customs of the borough eight centuries agone : — "The seller of a horse within the borough pays Id. to the mayor, and the purchaser another ; if an ox, -|d. ; if a man, 4d., in whatever place he may be bought within the rape. ** A murderer forfeits 7s. 4d. ; a ravisher, 8s. 4d. ; an adulterer, THE BATTLE OF LEWES. 47 8s. 4(1. ; an adulteress, the same. Tlie king receives the adul- terer's fine, the bishop the adulteress's. •' A runaway, or vagabond, that is recovered pays 8s. 4d." After the Conquest, Lewes and numerous other estates be- longing to the dead Harold — the " Last of the Saxon Kings," and not the unworthiest — were bestowed by the Conqueror upon Earl William de "Warrenne, who had married his daughter Gun- drada, and was potent in the royal councils. This famous earl built the Castle of Lewes (or largely repaired the old Saxon for- tress), and, in conjunction with his wife, erected and endowed the Priory of St. Pancras. The fair Countess died in 1085, the wealthy baron in 1087. With the De Warrennes this noble inheritance continued imtil the failure of the male line in 1347. The seventh Earl of Warrenne and Surrey joined the royal party against Simon de Montfort and the Barons, and was the stout noble who, when interrogated by the commissioners of Edward the First as to the titles by which he held his vast estates, drew forth his sword, and exclaimed, " By this instrument do I hold my lands, and by the same do I intend to protect them !" The Battle of Lewes was fought on AYednesday the 14th of May 1264. King Henry, accompanied by his son Prince Edward, and Richard, king of the Romans, arrived at Southover on Simday, May 11, 1264, where he was sumptuously enter- tained by the Prior of St. Pancras, Prince Edward and his suite becoming the guests of Earl John de Warrenne in the Castle. The royal forces imited with the earl's contingent, and encamped outside of the town. De Montfort followed quickly in their footsteps. At Fletch- ing Common, about 9 miles from Lewes, he halted his troops, and despatched the Bishops of London and Worcester with the view of effecting, if possible, an amicable arrangement. They reached Lewes on the 13th, and were received by the king in the Refectory of the Priory ; but their mission was utterly fruit- less, and the barons found that there was no resource but the sword. By break of day on the 14th the barons' army was in motion, and winding through the narrow glades of the leafy Weaid, advanced towards the Downs by ISTewick and Hamsey, and ascended the hill by the road which winds along the steep north- ern escarpment overhanging Coombe Place (about two miles 48 LEWES. north-west of Lewes). " They arrived on the Downs at so early an hour that the king's army was unsuspicious of their approach, and would have fallen an easy prey had not 'such villaniel as the old chronicler indignantly terms it, been inconsistent with the chivalrous spirit of those times. De Montfort immediately drew up his forces on the plain [just beyond the Lewes race- course], and having addressed them on the righteousness of their cause, and exhorted them to be valiant and steadfast in the glo- rious struggle in which they w^ere about to engage, he alighted from his horse, and prostrating himseK on the ground, again implored Heaven to bless them with victory. He then conferred knighthood on several of his chiefs, and advanced towards the town, which was seen at about a mile and a half distant, reposing in the balmy dews of a bright May morning. A foraging party of the royalists was soon descried and intercepted ; and some of them escaping, fled to Lewes with intelligence of its approach." The ridges, divided by three deep coombes, jut out from Mount Harry (so called, it is said, in remembrance of Henry the Third) across the country to Lewes, a distance of 3 miles. Along these ridges pressed forward the barons' army in three divisions, — the right ^\ing commanded by De Montfort's sons, Hugh and Guido ; the left, chiefly composed of London volunteers, led by Nicholas de Segrave ; and the van by the Earl of Gloucester. The reserve was under the immediate command of Leicester. " The centre of the anny was therefore posted on that ridge of the hill which descends with a gradual and uninterrupted slope to St. Anne's ; the left wing occupied the north branch of the Do^\T3s, that extends to the Wallends ; and the right wing was on the southern slope, which stretches towards Southover" — I^MantelV). The royal forces were also divided into three bodies : the centre commanded by the king, the right wing by Prince Edward, and the left by the king of the Romans. Bearing down upon De Montfort's army they hoisted the royal standard, the " dragon full austere,'' and King Henry, elate with hope of an easy triumph, exclaimed, as he neared his rebellious subjects, " Simon, je vous defie !" And so the great fight began. Prince Edward was speedily assaulted by Segrave's division, but he repulsed them immediately, and pursued them for four miles mthout ever checking the speed of his horsemen. This wafl much to the discomfort of the barons' host : " but the THE BATTLE OF LEWES. 49 barons," says Grafton the chronicler, " encouraged and comforted their men in such wise, that not all onelv the fresh and lustye knights fought eagerly, but also such as before were discomfited gathered a newe courage unto them, and fought mthout feare, iGLSomuch that the king's vaward lost their places. Then was the field covered with dead bodyes, and gasping and groning was heard on every syde ; for eyther of them was desyrous to bring others out of lyfe. And the father spared not the sonne, neyther yet the sonne spared the father ! Alliance at that time was bound to defiaunce, and Christian blood that day was shed with- out pitie. Lastly the victory fell to the barons ; so that there was taken the king, and the king of Romaynes, Sir Edward, the king's sonne, with many other noblemen, to the number of fifteen barons and bannerets ; and of the co rn m on people that were slain, about twenty thousand. For their safe keeping the prisoners were sent unto dyverse casteUis and prisons, except the king, his brother the king of Almayne, and Sir Edwarde, his sonne ; the which the barons helde with them vntill they came to London." A dreadful slaughter took place south of the town, where a bridge crossed the river Ouse. Numbers were drowned, and others were suflbcated in the mud. " Erom the swampy nature of the ground, many knights who perished there were discovered after the battle, still sitting on their horses in complete armour, and with drawn swords in their Hfeless hands." The king of the Romans at first took shelter in a windmill which then stood on the site of the present Black Horse Inn — " The Kyng of Alemaigne wende do full well ; He saisede the mulne for a castel," but he was soon compelled to surrender. Prince Edward retired to the Priory, and was hotly beset by the barons, who set lire to the magnificent church. Fortunately, the monks succeeded in extinguishing the flames ; and Prince Edward gave himself up to the victorious Leicester. The immediate consequence of this great triumph was the treaty of peace, historically known as " the Llise of Lewes." Its grander effects our limits "nill not permit us to trace. He who ■with earnest eye looks around England as it is, will easily re- cognize them, and in that recognition ^vill see sufficient cause for gratefid recollection of the genius and ^sisdom of Simon de Montfort ! 50 LEWES. There is little else of historical interest associated with Lewes, which, indeed, may be well content to rest its claims to re- membrance as an English shrine upon the memorable battle which we have so briefly recorded. John, eighth Earl de Warrenne, married Joan the grand-daughter of Edward I., and figures as the hero of a mediaeval romance. He had found, it appears, " one fairer and dearer, who occupied all his thoughts, and for whose sake he braved the anger of royalty, and the thunders of the church. It might have been that he had formed a contract with the beautiful Maud de Nerford before his fate was sealed to Joan. Such he asserted to be the case ; and in spite of all remonstrances he persisted in keeping her near him, and openly acknowledging her children ; while his wife sought, with an indignant mien, counsel from the ecclesiastics, who taking up her cause and that of morality, excommunicated the noble lover of Maud " — {Costello). Edward I. and his Queen Eleanor were entertained by the monks of Lewes for four days, in January 1276, on their way from Chichester — ^where they had been present at the translation of the body of the holy St. Richard de la Wych — to Canterbury. Lewes Castle is gained from the High Street by a lane which turns off below St. JMichael's Church. The Gateway, a fine old structure of great strength, in the early Edwardian style, is about 50 feet high, with machicolated battlements, and a circular tower at each angle. The staples for the hinges of the gates, and the grooves for a double portcullis still remain. The front wall is of squared flints, with fire-stone facings. Within, the old Norman gateway and plain semicircular arch wHI attract observation. "We now enter the outer Ballium, or Base-Court, irregular oval in shape, extending north-east and south-west for nearly 300 yards, and 130 yards in diameter. An artificial mound has been raised at each extremity, and sm-mounted by a keep. Of one of these the remains are considerable ; of the other, which crowned the Brack Moimt, there exists but some slight traces of the foundations. We reach the existing Keep by a narrow "winding path, closely overshadowed by trees. It was originally quadrangular, and strengthened by four hexagonal towers, about 64 feet in height from the base. The south and west towers alone remain, and time has adorned them with its wonted garniture of glossy foliage. The principal tower is occupied by the Museum of the PRIORY OF ST. PANCRAS. 51 Sussex Archaeological Society, and a fee of sixpence is required for the privilege of admission — a sixpence vreU. bestowed, since it enables the visitor who mounts to " the leads " to enjoy an extensive and magnificent view of Lewes and the surrounding country. The picturesque old town, with its roofs, and spires, and winding columns of smoke, lies immediately beneath us, and away to the north and south stretches the deep river-valley — the Ouse trailing its somewhat sluggish current through a gap in the chalk-hills to join the gleaming waters of the Channel at New- haven. Northward, the eye ranges over the leafy groves and tree-encompassed meadows of the "Weald, to the blue line of the Surrey-downs. From the terrace, known as the Castle Banks, there is also a charming prospect which includes a portion of the river- valley, the chalk-pits of Offham, the villages of Mailing and Barcombe. We now descend the hill to examine the interesting ruins of the PRIORY of ST. PANCRAS, which, in their desolate soHtude excited the regret of the poet Bowles. " All," he exclaims, " All, all is silent now ; silent the bell. Which, heard from yonder ivied turret high, Warned the -cowled brother from his midnight cell ; Silent tbe vesper chants, the litany, Responsive to the organ ; scattered He The wrecks of the proud pile, mid arches gray, Whilst hollow winds through mantling foHage sigh, And e'en the mouldering shrine is rent away, Where, in his Warrior-weeds, the Norman founder lay." The ruins are private property, and there is some difficulty in procuring permission to view them, but from Mount Calvary a sufl&ciently good position can be obtained. Over the site of the once magnificent Priory Church the railway passes, and it was during the excavations here necessitated that the discovery was made of the coffins of William de Warrenne and his wife Gun- drada. Lewes Priory was erected by the great Norman baron on the site of a small wooden chapel, dedicated to St Pancras, and colonized with Benedictine monks from Clugni, where the founder and his Countess had been splendidly entertained on their route to Italy in 1070. The edifice was completed in 1078, and was the first Cluniac priory in "F^ngland, and the 071I7/ one for a period 5S LEWES. of nearly 150 years. It rapidly rose into importance, and gained in wealth, and was esteemed one of " the five chief daughters " of the mother-abbey of Clugni. Thirtj^-two priors ruled over it from the time of its foundation to its dissolution in 1537. Hugh, the second prior, became Archbishop of Eouen ; John de Cour- tenay resigned an earldom for the abbot's mitre ; and John de Cariloco, in 1377, led his retainers and vassals against the French at Eottingdean, and was taken prisoner. Here were in- terred the founder and his Countess, Peter de Warrenne, John de Braose of Bramber Castle, many of the Earls and Countesses de \Yarrenne, and other notable personages, whose names are recorded in Mr. Horsfield's History of Lewes. The magnificent church of St. Pancras was founded in the reign of Henry H., and at the time of the Dissolution was rich in gold and purple, in stately turrets, in gorgeous shrines, in windows glo^ving with the figures of saints, apostles, priests, and barons. The revenues of the priory were then estimated at a sum equal to .£20,000 of the present currency. The pigeon-house, which, until about 60 years ago, stood south-west of the present ruins, " equalled in magni- tude many a parish church, and contained 3228 pigeon-holes. The fish-ponds, of which some traces are still discernible, were on a corresponding scale of grandeur. The refectory was worthy of so splendid an establishment. The garden probably occupied the large hollow area called " the Dripping Pan," and the Mount Calvary was perhaps the artificial mound near the cricket-field, where the tourist is now supposed to be standing. The " lantern," or prison of the priory, a circular building underground, stands in a private garden. Some notion of the general extent and splendour of the priory buildings may be gathered from a letter addressed to Cromwell — on whom, at the Dissolution, its demesnes were conferred — by his agent, John PortmarL It is curious enough to deserve a place in these pages : — " My Lord — I humbly commend me to your Lordship. The last I wrote to your Lordship was the 20th instant (March), by the hands of Mr. Williamson, by which I advertised your Lord- ship of the length and greatness of this church, and the sale, how we had begun to pull down the whole to tlie ground, and whdt manner of fasliion they used in pulling dowTi. I told your Lordship of a vault on the right of the altar that was borne with four. pillars, having about it five chapels, \\hich were compassed PRIORY OF ST. PANCRAS. 63 with tte vaults, 70 steps in length, that is, 210 feet. All this is down Thursday and Friday last. Now we are pulling down a higher vault, borne up by four thick and lofty pillars, 1 4 feet from side to side, and in circumference 45 feet, this shall be done for our second work ; as it goes forward I will advertise your Lordship from time to time. And that your Lordship may know with how many men we have done this, we brought from London 1 7 men, — 3 carpenters, 2 smiths, 2 plumbers, and 1 that keeps the furnace, — every one of these keeps to his own office. Ten of them hew the walls, among which are 3 carpenters ; these make props to underset, where the others cut away. The others cut the walls. These are men exercised much better than the men we find here in the country, wherefore we must have men, and other things also that we have need of, the which I shall in a few days show your Lordship by mouth. They began to cast the lead, and it shall be done with such diligence and saving as may be. So, as our trust is that your Lordship will be much satisfied with what we do, when I must most heartily commend myself, much desiring God to maintain your health, and your heart's ease, " Your Lordship's servant, "JOHN PORTI^Lilll ^* At Lewes, March 24, 153a. " Underneath, your Lordship shall see a just measure of the wide abbey. " Length of the church, 150 feet ; height, 63 feet ; the cir- cumference, 1558 feet. '•'The wall of the front, 10 feet thick. " Thickness of the steeple- waU, 10 feet. " There be in the church 32 pillars standing equally from the walls ; a high roof made for the beUs ; 8 pillars very high, 13 feet thick, and 45 feet about. The height of the greatest sort is 43 feet ; of the other, 28 feet. " The height of the roof before the great altar is 93 feet ; in the middle of the church where the bells did hang, 105 feet ; the height of the steeple in the front is 90 feet." Some of the monastic buildings, however, were converted into a stately residence for Gregory Cromwell^, the great statesman's son, who had married Elizabeth Seymour, sister to the Lady Jane^ Queen of Henry VTIL, and the king meditated paying them a 54 LEWES. visit, but was dissuaded by tbe younger CrOxxrtrell because tho plague was raging terribly at Lewes. The monastic lands afterwards reverted to tbe Crown ; were bestowed on Sackville, Earl of Dorset ; and have since undergone more mutations of proprietorship than it would interest the tourist to recount. In the cloister school, attached to the priory in its palmy days, were educated Archbishop Peckham, and Edjnund Dudley, Henry the Seventh's unscrupulous agent, whose father was, it is said, the monastic carpenter-in-chief. The coffins of William de Warrenne and his Countess were discovered in October 1845, during the works carried on for the construction of the London and Brighton Railway. A cutting 40 feet wide, and 1 2 feet deep was required, and this cutting was made across the site, as it proved, of part of the ancient Priory church, and the adjoining Chapter-house. Here, about 2 feet beneath the turf, were discovered the coffins of the Earl and Coimtess, now preserved at Southover Church ; and other re- mains of considerable interest, to which we shall hereafter more particularly allude. Close to the principal entrance of the Priory stands South- over Church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, a curious com- position of many styles, repaired and improved some fifteen years ago. The chancel (at one time much larger than it is now), is Perpendicular ; the nave is Early Norman ; and there are also Early English insertions. The Norman chapel which encloses the remains of William de Warrenne and Gundrada was erected by subscription in 1847, from the designs of a local architect. The material employed is Caen stone. Eigures of the Count and Countess, and the patron saint St. Pancras, are emblazoned on the richly painted windows. The floor is paved Tvith tiles which glow with the escocheons of many a potent baron. Arcades relieve the monotony of the walls. The leaden coffins of the Count and Countess, respectively lettered " Gundrada" and " WiLLELM," are preserved in two deep arched recesses in the south wall. The great Baron's coffin is 2 feet 1 1 inches in length, that of the Countess, 2 feet 9 inches. " From their small size it is clear that they were constructed to receive the bones long after their first interment, in consequence of the decay of the original coffins ; and it is probable that this took place in the time of Henry II., when the remains of William and Gundrada were BOUTHOVER CHURCH. 55 transferred from their tombs in the original church of the Prioryj to the chapter house of the new and more splendid edifice, styled by the old chronicler the ' great church of St. Par eras ;' the build- ing of which was begim on the anniversary of the founder's death, in 1243"— (Mantdl). Of these coffins j\Ir. Lower supplies some interesting particu- lars : — " The lids do not appear to have been soldered or other- wise fastened to the coffins, but merely flanged over the edges. The ornamentation of both is very singular, though simple. The plates composing them are evidently cast. A cord of loose tex- ture seems to have been impressed in the sand at regular intervals, and then crossed in the opposite direction, so as to produce on the plates a lozeng}^ or network pattern, in relievo, with interstices averaging 5 inches by 3." From measurements made by 'Mx. Pickford, Earl William's stature was probably 6 feet 2 inches ; Gundrada's, 5 feet 8 inches. Nearly seven centuries after the death of Gundrada, a slab of black Norman marble, richly sculptured, was discovered by Dr. Clarke, rector of Biixted, in the Shirley chancel of Isfield church, where it formed the table part of the mural monument of Edward Shirley, cofferer to Henry VIII., who appears to have rescued it from the ruins of the P^ory, and converted it into a memorial for himself. At the expense of Sir William Burrell it was re- moved to Southover church, where, curiously enough, after so many changes, it has been restored to its original destination. The English version of the inscription is here adopted from one by Dr. Mantell : — " Gundrad, a noble branch of ducal race, Pour'd out on English shrines balsamic grace ; Like Mary holy, and like Martha kind, In her were truth and charity combin'd. Though death the part of Martha now receives, The better part of Mary ever lives. Then, holy Pancras, whom she made her heir, Still genial listen to our mother's prayer ! On June's sixth kalend, nature's struggle came. And chill'd the life-blood in her tender frame ; Her spirit burst its marble shrine and gave The fragrance of her virtues to her grave." In a recess in the north wall is placed an effigy, temp. Henry in., which, fr-om some dim outlines of the Braose armorial bear- 66 LEWES. ings on the siircoat, has been supposed to personate John de Braose^ lord of Bramber, d. 1232. Over the altar is a picture of the Last Supper by Mortimer. The rectory of St. John's, Southover, is only valued at .£35 per annum, and is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. It is generally held in conjunction with the rectory of All Saints. The other churches of Lewes are St. IMichael's, St. Anne's, St John's {suh castro), All Saints', and St. Thomas-at-Cliffe. St. Michael's in Foro stands in the High Street — conspicu- ous enough ^ith its circular tower surmounted by a picturesque shingle spire. The body of the church was rebuilt in 1755, with the usual Georgian characteristics of plainness and deformity. There are two fine brasses, however, to afford the tourist some slight compensation ; one to Jok7i Braydforde, rector, d. 1457, and another to a nameless knight, teiwp. 1380-1400, apparently a member of the proud race of the De Warrennes. The tomb underneath was opened in 1828, and a leaden coffin discovered, enclosing " a tall slender corpse." A fine mural monument on the north wall represents a knight and his lady in the costume of the sixteenth centuiy, with figures of their ten children. A helmet hangs above it. The following inscription will interest the reader : — " Hereunder lye buried the bodies of Sir Nicholas Pelham, Knt. (son of Sir Wm. Pelham of Laughton), and Dame Anne his wife, daughter of John Sackvile, Esq., grandfather of the Eight Hon^ble Thomas (late) Earl of Dorset. They had issue six sonnes and four daughters. " His valrs. proofe, his manlie vertues prayse, Cannot be marshall'd in this narrow roome ; His brave exploit in great King Henry's days, Among the worthye hath a worthier tombe ; What time the French sought to have sack't Sea-Foord This Pelham did repel 'em back aboord. " Obiit 15 Decembris anno Dno. 1559. ^tatis suae 44." The rectory, valued at £177, is in the Lord Chancellor's patronage. St. Anne's Church, a neat Early English edifice, stands on the summit of the hiU to which it gives its name. It consists of a nave, chancel, and tower, surmounted by a shingled sjDire. The porch doorway is enriched with the usual Norman zigzag moulding. A cylindrical font, richly ornamented, is ancient. A small brass ST. John's sub-castro. 67 afi&xed to the east wall of the chancel, bears a Latin epitaph to Dr. Twyne, a famous physician, d. 1613, who is extolled as " the flower and ornament of his age," and posterity is warned that it must not hope to produce " so great a physician and so renowned a man." To the west of the church, in the old days, stood the ill- omened Pest House, and an hospital dedicated to St. Nicholas. The Lord Chancellor presents to the rectory, which is valued at .£230 per annum. St. John's Sub-Castro is a modern building, which was recon- structed on the site of a Saxon church of more than usual interest. The arch of one doorway has, however, been preserved, and a curious Latin inscription, of four hexameters, divided into two rhyming hemistichs, " deeply and rudely cut on blocks of lime- stone," may easily be read. Dr. Mantell thus translates it, — " Here lies a knight of royal Danish birth, Mangnus his name, and great alike his worth ; Who, contrite for his sins, and spurning fame, A lowly, lamb-like Anchorite became." The Magnus so highly extolled, and whose name has beer misspelt by his paneg)T?ist, was, according to tradition, a son of King Harold by his second wife Githa, sister of the Dane-King Sweyn.. The site of the churchyard is remarkable ; it occupies the brink of an abrupt cliff of chalk, on the south side of the river- valley, and was originally an oblong encampment, enclosing two conical moimds, one at the west angle, the other at the east. A deep vallum surrounded it on three sides. East of the church stands the tomb of IVIr. Thomas Blount, "an eminent Lewes barber," d. 1611, who bequeathed a silver cup to the dignitaries, and certain sums of money to the charities of the town which he adorned. The rectory of St. John Sub-Castro, valued at £244, is in the gift of H. P. Crofts, Esq. All Saints' Church, in the Friars' Walk, at a short distance beyond the spring called Pinwell, has a fine Perpendicular tower, with a curious and many-windowed excrescence, built by Wylde, in 1807. It contains a memorial to John Stanjield, and a good painting of St John the Baptist in prison, presented by the Earl of Chichester, who purchased it in Italy. 58 LEWES. Among the incumbents of the rectory of St. Thomas-at-Cliffe, referred to below, should be mentioned Richard Cecil, the emi- nent divine ; and Thomas Aquila Dale, father of the late Eev. Canon Dale. St. Thomas-at-Cliffe, dedicated to St. Thomas the MartjT, stands in the High Street of the Cliflfe, — a venerable Perpen- dicular building, which occupies the site of a religious house established in honour of Thomas a Becket, shortly after the Archbishop's murder. The altar-piece is a picture of the Ascen- sion, by Van der Gucht. The organ is said to be the instrument with which Handel delighted the lordly owner of Canons. The rectory, valued at ,£185, is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. Let us now proceed to summarize, as briefly as may be, the principal objects of interest in Lewes, since the limits to which we are necessarily confined will not permit us to luxuriate, as we could wish, among the historical and legendary details con- nected with them. We may commend the tourist who desires to dwell at greater length upon the history and romance of Lewes to Mr. Dunran's, and Mr. Horsfield's elaborate histories ; to iMr. M. C. Lower's excellent handbook ; to Mr. Blauuw's valuable essay on " the Barons' War ;" Dr. Mantell's " Day's Ramble in and about Lewes ;" and, finally, to Miss Costello's " Legendary Towns." [MEMORABLE PLACES and NOTABLE HOUSES.— The Star Inn contains a fine old staircase of carved oak, removed from Slaugham Place, the family seat of the Coverts ; and an ancient vaulted cellar which, it is said, in the days of the Marian persecution served as a prison for the n»rtyTS, many of whom were burnt at the stake in the street opposite the house. The Old House, near Southover Church, is traditionally reputed to have been the residence of that much- wandering Queen, Anne of Cleves. The great gate of the Priory formerly stood near the east end of the church, but was pulled down, we believe, in 1832. The side portal, however, still remains at the end of Southover Crescent. The County Hall, in High Street, built in 1812 at a cost of £10,000, contains a Shakspearian picture by Northcote, and a portrait of Genei-al Elliot, Lord Heath- field, the gallant defender of Gibraltar. JiREH Chapel, in the Cliffe, was erected by a fanatic, S. Jenkins, who dis- tinguished himself as W. A.— or Welsh Ambassador — and its graveyard contains the tomb of William Huntington, S.S., or " Sinner Saved," a religious enthusiast of remarkable character. His epitaph, written by himself, runs as follows : — " Here lies the COAL-HEAVER ; beloved of God, but abhon-ed of men : the omniscient Judge at the grand assize shall ratify and confirm this to the confusion of many thousands ; for England and its metropolis shall know that there hath been a pro- phet among them. W. H. 8. S." MALLINO. 69 On the Downs, between the windmiil and the great chalk-pit on Offham Hill, are the mounds of those who fell in the sanguinary hattle of Lewes. The Bull Lane Meetinq-House was built by the Gorings, temp. King Henry VTII. In the house adjoining, Tom Paine for a time resided, whUe acting as a Lewes exciseman. SouTHOVER House was erected, in the sixteenth century, by a Mr. Newton, a steward of Lord Buckhurst's, out of the ruins of the desecrated priory. It contains some curiously inlaid doors. In a neighbouring field are the scanty ruins — a gothic window, and a fragment of a chancel-wall — of an ancient Alms House, or Hospital for thirteen poor brethren and sisters, dedicated to St. James. The deep abrupt valley, known as The Coombe, should certainly be visited for the sake of the marvellous efiects of light and shade which it presents at sunrise. POINTS OF VIEW.— From Plumpton Plain, Mount Harry, St. Anne's Church- yard, and Lewes Race Course, on the west ; from Baldy's Garden, Cliffe Hill, Mount Cabum, Mailing Hill, and Southerham Comer, on the east ; from Ofifham-road, Mai- ling Deanery, and Mailing Mill, on the west ; from Mount Calvary, Winterboume Biidge, and road near Southover Church on the north. GEOLOGICAL LOCALITIES (as pointed out by Dr. Mantell) :— The Chalk-pits at Offham ; Mailing Hill, Bridgwick, on the Ringmer road ; in South Street ; Southerham Comer; Marlpits on the Glynde road. Chalk Cliffs on each side of the Coombe, and the Coombe itself. DISTANCES OF PLACES.— East Hoathly, 7 m.; East Tarring, 4 m. ; Glynde, 4 m. ; Mount Cabum, 2 m. ; Offham, 2 m. ; Ringmer, 3 m. ; South Mailing, 1 m. ; Stanmer Park, 5 m. ; Wilmington, 10 m. ; and West Firle, 3| m. Hints for Rambles. — 1. Through the Friars' Walk, so named from a Honse of Grey Friars, fl. temp. Henry III., and thence to Southover. Visit the Church, and proceed to the Priory ruins. Observe the view from Mount Calvary. Return to South- over, and cross to the hills west of Lewes. Visit St. Anne's Church, and afterwards the Castle. — 2. Through Mailing Street to Ringmer. Take the road to Glyndboume, and cross the Downs, by the base of Mount Cabum, to Glynde. Return by Raus- combe to Southerham, and thence to Lewes by road. — 3. Through Iford, RodmiU and Southease to Newhaven. Cross the Ouse, and retum by Denton, East Tarring, and Beddingham, about 14 m. — i. Through Ringmer to Laughton, and thence to East Hoathly. Cross to Little Horsted and retum by the road, leaving Ifield, Barcombe and Hamsey, on the right ; or from Little Horsted proceed to Uckfield, and return by rail. — 5. From Lewes to Charby. Cross to Wivelsfield. Keep southward to Ditch- ling, and retum along the Do-ftTis by way of Plumpton, entering Lewes through Offham. — 6. To Brighton by rail, and retum by road. — 7. Or to Brighton by rail, and then by the cliffs to Rottingdean and Newhaven. Retum to Lewes by rail, or by way of Rodmill, Southease, and Kord.] BRANCH ROUTE from LEWES to BATTLE. We leave Lewes by way of ]\LiLLESrG (population, 730) — an ancient settlement of the Saxon Mallingas — and pause to ex- amine the Church, founded in 1628 by John Evelyn, the author of " Sylva," who was educated at Southover school. The site of an old collegiate churchy called the " Deanery of Mailing," lies at 60 LEWES TO BATTLE. an inconsiderable distance west. Having been founded by Cead- walla, King of Wessex, about 680, it must be regarded as one of the earliest Christian churches in Sussex. It was attached to the see of Canterbury, whose Bishop had here an archiepiscopal palace. It was to South Mailing the four knightly murderers of Thomas k Becket rode -with whip and spur, after their dreadful deed. " On entering the house, they threw off their arms and trappings on the large dining-table which stood in the hall, and after supper gathered roimd the blazing hearth ; suddenly the table started back, and threw its burden on the ground. The attendants, roused by the crash, rushed in with lights and replaced the arms. But soon a second still louder crash was heard, and the various articles were thro\vn still further off. Soldiers and servants with torches searched in vain under the solid table to find the cause of its convulsions, till one of the conscience-stricken knights suggested that it was indignantly refusing to bear the sacrilegious burden of their arms. So ran the popular story ; and as late as the fourteenth century it was still shewn in the same place — the earliest and most memorable instance of a ' rap- ping,' ^ leaping,' and ' turning table ' " — {Stanley). All that now remains to recall to the tourist " the stormy days of yore " is a foliated capital in the farm-house kitchen, and a " bit " of Early Norman wall in the garden. The perpetual curacy of South Mailing, valued at £200, is in Mr. Courthope's patronage. About 2 miles beyond Mailing we arrive at RIXGMEE (po- pulation, 1374), a village rendered interesting by its associations with ^\Tiite of Selboume, who was accustomed from this point to pursue his delightful labours in the grand laboratory of nature. Though he had travelled the Sussex downs for upwards of 30 years, yet he could still investigate " that chain of majestic mountains with fresh admiration year by year." Ringmer lies at the base of Mount Cabum, whose entrenched summit and ver- durous slopes are things of fame aU round this countryside. Here the soft green sward, and the deep shadowy coombes, and the patches of fragrant thjTue, will fill the soul of the spectator u^ith delight. The green paths that wind across these downs are called " Borstalls " — from Beorh-stegele, hill-paths, according to Kemble. From every point is commanded a breadth of glorious scenery of the richest and most varied character LAUGHTON — CHIDDINGLY. 61 RiNGMER Church is a low but venerable building, with a tower, nave, cbancel, and north and south chapels, containing numerous monuments and inscriptions of the seventeenth century. The vicarage of Ringmer, valued at ^400, is in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. LAUGHTON (population, 812) is a pleasant, breezy village, interesting from its association with the knightly Pelhams, who had here a large moated mansion, built about 1534. The ruins are of no great importance, but a tower of brick, now rising out of the shapeless mass of a modern farm-house, and a gabled build- ing at the south angle, may interest the tourist. The Pelham buckle is frequently introduced among the ornaments. The vicarage, valued at ^224, is in the patronage of the Earl of Chichester. Our route now takes us through a romantic and, generally, a well-wooded country, with broad patches of heath, wide sweeps of cornfield, and fresh green reaches of meadow land. Just be- yond the eighth milestone, a road on the left leads to CHID- DINGLY (population, 1053), where there are some ruins of the picturesque Elizabethan mansion of the Jefferays, and a goodly Early English church, with a tower surmounted by a tall stone spire. Observe here the remarkable memorial, with recumbent effigies, to Sir John Jefferay, Chief Baron of the Exchequer, temp. Elizabeth. In niches on either side are placed the figures of Sir Edward Montague and his wife, a daughter of Sir John. Lord Sackville has the patronage of the vicarage, which is valued at £229 per annum. Our road to Battle passes through other villages of little in- terest to the tourist. At 1 2 miles from Lewes he reaches Hel- LtNGLY, already described (see p. 38), while, 4 miles to the south, lies Hurstmonceux (see p. 39). After crossing Boreham Bridge ( 1 8 miles), he will observe a turning on the left, — a green and leafy lane — a true Kentish lane, tree-shadowed, and meadow- bordered, — which leads to Ashburxham Place (Earl of Ash bumham), a tabooed locality to the tourist, for whom neither gold nor silver key will unlock the magic gates. The causes of this illiberal seclusion we have been unable to ascertain, but such is the fact ; into Ashburnham Place there is no admission for the archaeological inquirer or historical student. 62 LEWES TO BATTLE. The family mansion of the Ashbumhams is a towered and gabled structure of red brick, situated on a gentle ascent which swells out of a broad deep hollow, and reposes in the shadow of a background of dense and venerable woods. The park is full of beauty ; there are sudden ascents, and wide stretches of springy turf, and clusters of dark brown trees, and dells of romantic love- liness. A path, open to the public, crosses the demesne, and opens up some rare rich prospects of the distant cliffs and the ever- changeful sea. Here is preserved a remarkable collection of rare MSS. and valuable printed books, chiefly Latin, French, and Flemish, with some exquisite specimens of the burins of the early German artists. Armour of the knights of old ; a mass of antique and valuable plate ; and some fine specimens of Cuyp, Teniers, Rembrandt, and Rubens, are among the Ashburnham treasures. Scarcely less interestiug, perhaps, are the Carolian relics ; — Charles the First's watch, his white silk drawers, the blood-spotted shirt which he wore upon the scaffold, and the sheet flung over his corpse after the cruel axe had done its worst, — relics treasured up by the pious devotion of John Ashburnham, the king's faithful attendant. " For some years they were carefully preserved at Wick-Rising- ton, near Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire. In 1743, they were bequeathed to the clerk of the parish of Ashburnham, Sussex, and his successors for ever, to be kept in the church," whence they have been removed, on what grounds we know not, to Ashburn- ham Place. The Ashburnhams trace their descent from Bertram de Esh- burnham. Vice-comes of Kent and Sussex under Harold, the last of the Saxon kings. Fuller's panegyric of them, therefore, is not undeserved, as " a family of stupendous antiquity, wherein the eminency hath equalled the antiquity." Ashburnham Church stands in the park, at no great dis- tance from the house. It was rebuilt by John Ashburnham, d. 1671, gentleman of the bed-chamber to Charles I. and Charles II., and contains a memorial to that worthy and his -wives, and to his brother. Sir William Ashburnham. There are some other monu- ments of an interesting character. The vicarage of Ashburnham (population, 865), valued at .£307, and in the patronage of the Earl of Ashburnham, is associated \^ith the rectory of Penhurst PENHURST (population, 120) — i.e., the wooded hill— lies a short distance beyond Ashburnham Place. EAST HOATHLY — WALDRON. 63 From this point the road leads, tkrough a fair and open countiy, to Battle and its Mstoric ruins. BRANCH ROUTE— LEWES to FRANT. After passing Ringmer, and its pleasant coppices, the first place of any interest on the road to Frant is EAST HOATHLY (population, 667), a picturesque village, situated on the borders of Holland Park, a former residence of the Pelhams. There are some remains of the Tudor mansion. The Church is a Per- pendicular structure, with a fine old tower, ornamented with the Pelham device of "the buckle." The rectory, valued at ^261, is in the patronage of the Earl of Abergavenny. WALDRON (1106), is a large and populous village, in a luxuriantly wooded country. The rectory, valued at £455, is attached to the patronage of Exeter College, Oxon. Our road now runs along a branch of the great Forest Ridge of the Hastings sand, climbing short steep hills, descending into shadowy valleys, passing under the interweaving branches of ash and elm, skirting smiling meadows which are rich in blossom and verdure, running through clusters of quaint old cottages, crossing " brawling brooks," and plunging deep into leafy hollows ; -ndnd- ing, in fact, through landscapes of the most marvellous and unexpected beauty. Here and there we meet with a rustic inn, where we may obtain the homely refreshment of home-brewed ale, and bread and cheese, or, haply, of eggs and bacon, or we come to a sequestered farmstead, reposing under its ancestral trees, and seeing itself unchanged, and apparently unchangeable, in the pond which glimmers somewhat fitfully before it. The highest point of the ridge is at Cross-in-Hand (where there is a tolerable "hostel"), the point of divergence of the Mayfield road. [About 4 miles beyond lies HEATHFIELD (population, 2200), with its pretty little cburch recently restored) and its noble Park, the residence for many years of General Elliot, the Gibraltar hero, who obtained his barony from this place. The grounds, and Twt the house, ■will obtain the visitor's approval. Heathfield Tower, 590 feet above the sea level, was erected as a memorial to the gallant Elliot by Francis Newbery, Esq., to whom the estate was sold by that hero's successor. The view from the tower is of great extent, and includes a circle of some 30 miles in diameter. 64 LEWES TO PRANT. Tixe neighbourhood of Heathfield presents a free and open aspect, the village taking its name from the heath which once extended far and wide on its sandy soil. A very fine view is obtained from the Independent Chapel, reaching to East- bourne and the sea, vessels being plainly visible on a clear day. About half-a-mile from this point, on the roadside, is a monument commemorat- ing the death of Jack Cade. It is a square stone erection about five feet square by ten high. The inscription runs : — "Near this spot was killed the notorious rebel Jack Cade." Three miles south is situated WARBLETON (population, 1509), where the remains of a house of Augustinian canons, removed from Hastings by Sir John Pelham, teyn,}). Henry IV., are, as was apparently usual in Sussex, embodied in a farm-house. The Church contains a fine brass to William Prestwick, d. 1436, prior of Battle Abbey. The pelican crest of the canopy, and the inscription on the priestly apparel — " Credo quod redemptor meus vivit "—should be remarked. A loft in the church, tower was used as a prison for heretics during Queen Mary's reign, and here Richard Woodman was confined previous to his auto-da-fe at Lewes. MAYFIELD (population, 2300), situate on the Tunbridge Wells and Eastbourne line, is a very picturesque little town, and from the station a delightful view may be obtained of the surrounding country. There is a good deal to interest both the antiquary and the artist here. There are several old-fashioned cottages and gable roofs ; and the large " Middle House " is a fine specimen of Elizabethan domestic architecture. The massive remnants of the old w^all of the archiepiscopal palace, the church of St. Dunstan, and the recently erected conventual establish- ment, in which the ruins of the abbey are incorporated, add further to the attractions of the place. Visitors can gain admit- tance to the convent, and are shown round the chaj)el with its old arches. The verger of St. Dunstan's church will also gladly admit visitors into that building, where there are some interest- ing tablets and iron slabs with inscriptions, telling of the days when the iron-masters flourished in these parts. A pretty walk from here through the meadows into the woods leads to the old " furnace-house." St. Dunstan is said to have founded here an archiepiscopal palace, but the present ruins are evidently of no greater anti- quity than the fourteenth century. Archbishop Islip erected the principal portion in the Decorated style, and cut down so much of the Weald timber as to incur censure for his rapacity, and to bring down upon himself " a signal judgment." While riding from Sevenoaks to Tunbridge he was thrown by his horse, repaired to Mayfield, and after dinner was seized with paralysis HAYPIELD. 66 — 3k waruing to all sacrilegious meddlers with tke sacred oak ! Archbisliops Stratford and Islip also died at Mayfield. A great council was held here by the former in 1332, for the regulation of the feasts and fasts of the church. Cranmer exchanged May- field with Henry the Eighth for other estates, and it afterwards passed through a long succession of proprietors. Sir Thomas Gresham resided here, and splendidly received imder his roof the great Gloriana. Towards the end of the eighteenth century the despoiler, as usual, stepped in, and despoiled and shattered into ruins the stately pile hallowed by so many interesting associations. The principal, and the most ancient portion of the ruins, is the Great Hall, 70 feet long, 39 feet wide, and 50 feet high, erected by Archbishop Islip about the middle of the fourteenth century. The three arches which formerly supported the open roof remain entice. They are turned above the ^^Nindows and be- tween the buttresses, so as to sustain a longitudinal as well as an outward pressure. The tracery of the windows is beautiful, and of that kind which is known as " Kentish." It is to be lamented that the timber roof should have been destroyed, for " it was probably unique." A niche formed of roses, carved in stone, at the upper end of the hall, indicates the position of the archiepis- copal chair. The Great Dixls'G-Eoom occupies one side of the quadrangle. Observe its hooded chimney-piece of stone, and the iron chinmey- back, dated " 1663." The Grand Staircase now leads into a large wainscoted room, the receptacle of the St. Dunstan relics — his anvil, hammer, and tongs. The iron handled hammer is ancient, but the tongs and anvil cannot boast of a very great age. An old sword is also said to be St. Dunstan's. The iron rail of the staircase, and these notable relics, were all manufactured at the Mayfield furnaces — formerly of great repute. On each side of the door of the ante-room are obliterated armorial bearings, probably those of the See of Canterbury. North of the hall some steps descend to a doorway, which opens upon a subterranean passage to Mayfield Church. The kitchen and but- tery were at the lower end of the hall, and the servants' apart- ments in a projecting square tower — [See the description of Mayfield in Parker's Domestic Architecture."] The gate-house stni remains entire. St. Dunstan's "Well, reputed to be 300 feet in depth, adjoins the kitchen apartments, and has been walled roimd. 66 LEWES TO FRANT. Thomas May, the eloquent historian of the great deeds of the Long Parliament, was born at Mayfield Palace in 1595. Matfield Church, dedicated to St. Dunstan, occupies the site of an ancient wooden structure, which was totally destroyed by fire in 1389. It is a building in the Early English style of architecture, recently restored. As stated above, the verger will gladly afford admittance to the church ; and its interior is not without interest. About 4 miles to the north-east lies EOTHERFIELD (popu- lation, 4149), the ancient " Yille of Eedrefeld/' where the eal- dorman Berhtwald, having been restored from a severe illness by a visit to the shrine of St. Denis, built a church in honour of that saint, and deposited in it the precious relics he had brought back from the Xorman abbey. He afterwards bestowed the church on its monks (a.d. 792), who founded here a small cell. The pre- sent structure is principally Early English, vrith a tall, tapering spire of much elegance. Its arched roof is of chestnut-wood. The rectory, one of the wealthiest in Sussex, is valued at £1354, and is in the patronage of the Earl of Abergavenny. The old manor-house of "Walshes, with its original porch and two or three antique windows, is about 2 miles east of the church. Hence the tourist will proceed, by way of Mark's Cross and Sockbiuy, to FRANT. BRANCH ROUTE— LEWES, vid UCKFIELD, to TUXBRIDGE WELLS. We shall avail ourselves, on our way to " the Wells," of the branch railway to Tuubridge, which, at about 2 miles from Lewes, passes to the west of HAMSEY (population, 529), a village bor- dering on " the sad-coloiu-ed Ouse," "with a Perpendicular church, ^not used), picturesquely situated on a considerable ascent. In the north wall is placed a richly sculptured Easter sepulchre. The rectory, valued at .£650, is in the patronage of Sir George Shiffner, Bart. Still speeding through the fertile river-valley, we reach, at 2 miles farther north, BARCOMBE (population, 1182), a busy and populous hamlet in a good agricultural district. The rectory, valued at £960, is included in the Lord Chancellor's patronage. ISFIELD DCKFIELD. 67 ISFIELD (population, 508), is tlie next station, but the \dllage itself stretches away along tlie road to Baresfield for some distance, with its Church at its northern extremity, on the right bank of a small offshoot of the Ouse. This is a building in the Decorated style, with some Perpendicular insertions. The Shir- ley or Shurlet Chapel, on the south side, contains some memo- rials of interest ; a stately altar-tomb, with recumbent effigies to Sir John Shurley, d. 1631, and his two wives, and small kneeling figures of their children. The brasses commemorate Edward Shurley, d. 1558, and his wife, and Thomas Shurley, d. 1571. The rectory, worth £340, is in the Archbishop of Canterbury's patronage. ISFiELD Place still retains some traces of its ancient splen- dour, and over the entrance are preserved the escocheons and mottoes of the Shurleys. A high and massive wall, strengthened at each angle by a watch-tower, formerly encircled it, and is still in tolerable repair. The mansion has been diminished into a farm-house. [On the north bank of a tributary of the Ouse, and to the right of the Tunhridge road— about 2 m. east of Isfield— is seated LITTLE HORSTED (population, 283), a picturesque village, with a Norman church, which the tourist should examine. It consists of a nave, chancel, and turret. The rectory, valued at £356, is in the pa- tronage of J. Barchard, Esq.] At 8 miles (by road) from Lewes we reach UCKFIELD (po- pulation, 2146), from whence the line proceeds by Pound Green, Kotherfield, and Groombridge. The town mainly consists of one long street, lining the high road to Tunbridge Wells, and on "market day" presents a lively and attractive scene — Sussex lasses, fresh and blooming, Sussex farmers, many of them retain- ing the traditional top-boots and " cut-away coats " of the Georgian era, London contractors, and staring villagers gathering here on their divers errands. The neighbourhood is rich in attractive landscapes — woodland, and meadow, and cornfield, and brown ridges of heathy hills — combining in pictorial effects of great in- terest and beauty. The church is modem, and contains nothing worthy of special notice. The living is a perpetual curacy, valued at .£340, of which the Archbishop of Canterbury has the patronage , At The Kocks (R. J. Streatfield), on the margin of a fine sheet of water, lie some masses of rock of similar character to 68 LEWES TO TUNBRIDGE WELLS. those which are scattered in the neighbourhood of Tunbridge WeUs. Proceeding through a country of unusual interest, enjoying a succession of bold and varied landscapes, but thinly populated, we arrive at the station for BUXTED (population, 840), — a pleasant village with a conspicuous Church, in the Early English style, standing on an ascent, with a low shingled spire, a decorated chancel, nave, and aisles — an interesting and, indeed, a handsome building. Here is a brass to Butellus Avenel, rector, d. 1375, with the figure of a priest ; Christopher Savage, " both flesh and bone," lies interred in the chancel. The figure of a female holding in her hands a large churn — a rebus for the name of Alchurn, Alchorn, or Allchom — and flanked by warriors, each with a shield on his breast, should be noticed over the north porch. She was possibly a benefactor to the church or village. The rectory is in the patronage of the Archlnshop of Canterbury. At the north-east angle of the chancel of the church the visitor cannot fail to observe a remarkable yew tree which measures 23 feet in circumference. Buxted Rocks and Caves are well worth inspection by persons interested in these phenomena of nature. The caverns have been considered to bear a resemblance to the caves which exist in the rocks at St. Andrews in Scotland, be- tween the castle there and the harbour. The Rev. Edward Clarke, father of Dr. Samuel Clarke, the adventurous traveller, held this quiet Sussex incumbency for some years. George Watson, the Sussex calculator, was born here. His dexterity in arith- metical operations and his powers of memory were extraordinary ; in other respects he was almost imbecile. Richard "Woodman, one of the ten protestant martyrs burnt at Lewes in 1557, was a native of Buxted. Buxted Place (Colonel Yemon Harcourt) was the seat of the late Earl of Liverpool, whose daughter brought it by marriage to its present proprietor — formerly M.P. for the Isle of Wight, and the third son of the late Archbishop of York. The house is commodious and pleasantly situated. The park is of considerable extent, and rendered specially attractive by its rich masses of vigorous foliage. Buxted was one of the great " iron-towns " o^ the Weald whose noble trees — BUXTED. 09 " Jove's oak, the warlike ash, veined elm, the softer beech, Short hazel, maple, plane, light asp, the bending wych. Tough holly, and smooth birch, must altogether burn," — to supply its famous furnaces, before tlie introduction of coal for manufacturing purposes, removed them to the busy nortbiern counties. An interesting relic of the iron-times is still extant at HowBOURNE, ill this parish — an old hammer-post, on the marge of the once extensive but now drained pond. It is formed of an oak tree, and in excellent preservation. Its height above ground is 9 J feet. The first iron cannons cast in England vt^ere manufactured at Buxted, in 1543, by Ralph Hoge, or Hogge, assisted by Peter Baude, a Frenchman, and Peter Van Collet, a Flemish gunsmith. Bombs, fawconets, fawcons, nimions, and sakers, and other kinds of ordnance, were here produced. Hogge's house is still standing, near Buxted Church, and from their rebus, or " name-de\ice," a Jiog, carved over the doorway, is called the Hog-house. " The name of Hogge or Hogge seems to have been confounded with that of Huggett ; and there is a place on the confines of Buxted and Mayfield, called Huggett's furnace, where, according to tradi- tion, the first iron ordnance was cast. The traditionary distich that ' Master Huggett and his man John, They did cast the first can-non,' is firmly believed in the locality " — {Lower). Many persons of the name of Huggett still carry on the trade of blacksmith in east Sussex. The decline of the Sussex iron-manufacture dates from the pro- duction of iron in the northern coal-fields. In 1740 there were 59 furnaces in England, and 1 of these were in Sussex ; in 1788, there were 77, but only 2 in Sussex ; and in 1796, while England possessed 104, Sussex had but one ! Many of the great Sussex families owed their prosperity to this noAV extinct staple. " In the days of Elizabeth, the AshbiUTihams, the Pelhams, the Mon- tagues, the Kevilles, the Sidneys, the Sackvilles, the Dacres, the Stanleys, the Finches, the Gages, and even the Percys and the Howards, did not disdain such lucre, but pursued it to the de- struction of old ancestral oak and beech, and with all the apparent ardour of Birmingham and Wolverhampton men of these times. We may add after these the Culpepers, the Dykes, the Darreb, the Apsleys, the Coverts, the Merleys. the Shirleys, the Burrells. 70 LEWES TO TUNBRIDGK WELLS. the Gresliains, tlie Bullens (kinsmen of royalty), the GrativekeS; the Bakers, and the Fullers. Concerning the last mentioned, there is a foolish tradition that the first of the name and family in Sussex gained his wealth by hawking nails about the country' on the backs of donkeys. This is absurd ; but at the same time it is generally understood that the family were greatly enriched by the manufacture — a fact which is indeed frankly avowed in their singular motto ; * Carlone et forcipihus.^ " Eetuming into the high road, we see to our left the populous village of J^IARESFIELD (population, 1805), where, through the researches of the rector, the Rev. Edward Turner, have been dis- covered the remains of extensive Roman iron-works. Some Roman coins, a considerable quantity of pottery, fragments of glass, pieces of sheet-lead, a stylus, and several skeletons, have here at various times been excavated. IVIaresfield Park (J. V. Shelley, Esq.), is a demesne of goodly proportions and picturesque beauty. It lies between the East Grimstead and Tunbridge roads. Maresfield Church is a small Decorated structure, containing some good ancient woodwork. The rectory, valued at .£680, is in the patronage of Rev. J. B. Butler. There is a small district church at Nutley Green, 3 miles north, on the East Grimstead road. The road now ^vinds through " the tufty friths " and " mossy fells " of the Weald country, — still rich in masses of leafy shadow, though the glorious old forest has been shorn of almost all its ancient grandeur, — and ascends a steep ridge of the Hastings sand to CROAVBGROUGH, 804 feet above the level of the sea, which may be discerned from this lofty elevation, though distant from it some five and twenty miles. The prospects enjoyable on every side are such as can barely be realized in words. Especially so towards the south, where the Downs rear their magnificent crests like crowned giants, and now glow in the golden sunshine, now loom all grandly and solemnly through the passing shadows. Crowborough was one of the beacon-stations of Sussex, where the ball-fii'e was lighted on all occasions of impending peril, and shot up its warning flames to the awakening of the entire Weald. The place where it stood may be seen at a short distance from the waysid« inn, on the opposite side of the road. llie road now skirts the remains of Ashdown Forest as far as WITHYHAM. 71 Boar's Head Street, — a name* wliich has a veritable woodland flavour, — and, passing through, the romantic charms of Eridge Park, again ascends the rising ground before it reaches Tun- bridge Wells, at 22 miles from Lewes. i^° From Crowborough the tourist may descend by a most picturesque and delectable route to WITH YH AM (population, 1692), a route which, if his time will permit, he must not fail to undertake, as it traverses a country side of extraordinary and romantic interest. Whether he be a sketcher, intent on trans- ferring to his tablets the outlines of a magnificent landscape ; a botanist, eager to investigate the treasures of the Sussex flora ; a geologist, learned in strata ; or an idler, in search of the picturesque, — he will do well to adopt our recommendation. Withyham itseK is a village of more than ordinary interest, and the tourist may provide himself with the Hon. and Rev. Sackville West's " Historical Notices of the Parish of Withyham,'' if he care for fuller details than our plan permits us to afford. The Church, dedicated to St. Mchael, is situated upon rising ground, near the rectory, — where application must be made for permission to view the chancel and Sackville Chapel, — and is a large and goodly Early English building, with additions made in the seventeenth century, after it had severely suffered in a ter- rible storm of lightning and thunder (June 16th, 1663). The repairs were not completed until 1672, the date now upon the porch, where it was replaced after some careful restorations made about 20 years ago. In the chancel windows there is some good stained glass, and the north windows of the nave are emblazoned ^Yith armorial bearings. The Dorset chancel, or Sackville Chapel, was rebuilt in 1624. The south aisle is a modern addition, and the Sackville Chapel itself has been thoroughly restored by the present incumbent of Withyham. The ceiling is a reproduction of the Tudor style. A genealogical emblazoimient of the Sack- villes, from the time of the Norman William, in richly coloured glass, and several interesting memorials, including two fine sculptures by Flaxman and NoUekens, will repay the visitor's careful examination. In the vaults beneath lie many of the famous Sackvilles — knights, poets, statesmen — the " true men of * Some aathorities pretend that the village is named from a curious rock placed in a garden on the right of the road, in which th^y see a '•esemblance to " a monstrous liead." 72 LEWES TO TUNBRIDGE WELLS. old," whose names are among the cherished memories of oui glorious England, and among them the great Thomas Lord Buck- hurst^ Lord High Treasurer to Gloriana and her successor, the pedant James, and the author of " Gorboduc." His monument was destroyed in the fire of 1663. The chapel is decorated \Yith the Sackville banners. Observe, the white marble altar-tomb to Richard Earl of Dorset, d. 1677, representing his infant son, recumbent, between the standing figures of his countess and himself. It was originally designed for the infant, but the Earl died before its completion. Observe, too, the monuments already referred to, by Nollekens and Flax- man respectively, to the first Duke of Dorset, d. 1 749, and the second Duke of Dorset, killed by a fall from his horse in 1815. The Earl of Dorset, d. 1705, commemorated by Pope as "Dorset, the grace of courts, the muse's pride," is buried in this church, but the monument on which the poet's panegyric was to have been engraved has never been erected. Both church and churchyard are maiatained in admirable order, and the tourist will find no difficulty lq obtaining admission. The rectory, valued at .£600, is in the patronage of Earl Delawarr, the proprietor of Buckhurst Paek, which passed to him upon his marriage with the Countess, — a lineal descendant of the Sackvilles. Of Buckhurst, the ancient seat of this ancient family, situated at a short distance south-east of the church, only the gate-tower re- mains. It was originally a pile of unusual magnificence, and appears — from the ground-plan preserved in Horace "Walpole's "Anecdotes of Painters," — to have occupied an area of 260 feet by 200. The Hall was 55 feet long and 40 feet wide, the Tennis Court was 55 feet in lengthy and the other apartments were constructed on the same scale of grandeur. There were eight towers besides the gate-tower, and the surrounding park was of noble dimensions and admirable beauty. But such were the " extreme bad ways " and miry roads by which the Sackvilles ?3ilone could reach their Sussex-palace, that they represented their miserable condition to the Cro-WTi, and obtained, about 1630, a grant of Knole, near Sevenoaks, and removing thither, permitted Buckhurst to fall into ruins. Some portion of it was broken up, and made use of in the erection of Sackville College, at East Grinstead. HARTFIELD. 73 The present house, a noble Tudor building, stands at a short distance from the old tower, in a park of great extent, famous for its rich masses of beech-trees. On the death of John Frederick, third Duke of Dorset, it fell to the share of one of his daughters and co-heiresses, Elizabeth, who married the Earl Delawarr. One mile beyond Withyham, on the north boundary of the once famous Ashdo^Ti Forest, is situated HARTFIELD (population, 1573), a pleasant village, with some leafy copses roimd about it. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands on rising ground. It is partly Early English and partly Decorated. The rectory, valued at £900, is in the nomination of Earl Delawarr, who is one of the largest land proprietors in this part of Sussex. Bolebrook, an old house of the Sackvilles, which passed to them, by mar- riage, from the Dalyngrugges, about 1400, is now included in the Buckhurst estates It was built in the fifteenth century, and was one of the earliest brick-built houses in England. A gate- tower is the principal portion extant. [4 m. north of Hartfield, and across the Kentish boundary— here formed by the river Medway, is situated COWDEN (population, 712), with its old church on the brink of a hiU, overlooking a wide and varied landscape. The pulpit bears the date of 1628, and one of those old hour-glasses which were a warning to prolix preachers and a comfort tc inattentive congregations. The present incumbent holds the ad- vowson 01 the rectory, valued at £347. A pleasant walk may be taken from this starting-point passing Holty Hocsk (R. M. Whatley, Esq.), and thence, by way of Holt Common, across Blackham Common, and through Ashurst to Tunbridge WeUs.] The tourist may penetrate from Hartfield or Withyham into the depths of the romantic district still known as Ashdown Forest. It lies within the manor of Maresfield, and was in- cluded in the Honour of the Eagle of Pevensey. The Earl Delawarr is, at present, lord of this extensive chase. About 13,000 acres were formerly enclosed within a fence, and well stocked with deer ; but during the troublous times of the Civil Wars, the fences were uprooted, and the deer slain. The thick woods which were once the boast of this sylvan country side, are now represented by clumps of trees crowning the higher ground. The north-west extremity is Forest Row, a pretty village, built, it is said, for the accommodation of those nobles and theii' retainers who pursued the chase in the adjoining forest. Near it is KiDBROOK, the seat of Lord Colchester. A new district- church. Early English in style, was erected at Forest Row in 1835. 74 LEWES TO EAST GRINSTEAD, Its south boundary was formed by the Downs, whicb extend from Uckfield to Etchingbam. "Witbybam was its north-east point, and Crowborougb, on the east, overlooked the entire tract of rank and luxuriant woodland. BRANCH ROUTE— LEWES to EAST GRINSTEAD. The direct East Grinstead road, at about 3 miles from Lewes, leaves the Cook's Bridge Station on the left, and Coneybar- Row Park on the right. About 5 miles further, after passing the village of Chailey, it is crossed by the road from Cuckfield to Etchingham. Following the latter for 2^ miles we should reach Newick, and crossing the Ouse at Gold Bridge, and turn- ing to the left at Pitt Do^vn, visit ^LETCHI^'G, and, by way of Sheffield Park, regain the high road near the 39th milestone. From this point the route lies through a thinly populated and romantic country, skirting Ashdown Forest, crossing Dane Hill, and by way of Chelwood, Kidbrook, and Brambletye Place, entering East Grinstead. H at the cross road already alluded to we took a westerly direction, we should proceed by Pelling Bridge to Lixdfield, and thence, by the main road, with Horsted-Keynes and West HoATHLY on the right, and Ardingley on the left. At Sidles- field Common a road branches off to East Grinstead — the main road continuing by way of Godstone and Croydon to London. For the convenience of the tourist, we notice the places particu- larized in capitals in the order in which we have named them : — CHAILEY (population, 1268) is a large agricultural district. The rectory, valued at £505, is in the hands of the Blencowe and Hepburn families as patrons. The church is not a very interest- ing building. NEWICK has a population of 1083. The Rev. J. Powell holds the advowson of the rectory, which is valued at £327. FLETCHDsG (population, 2132) is an extensive and populous parish. The tillage lies to the south-east of Sheffield Park (Earl of Sheffield), a noble and well-wooded demesne. The stately mansion was greatly enlarged and completely renovated by the late Earl. The w^alls are decorated vriih. carvings of the armorial bearings of the different lords of the manor, from the days of William the Norman. A fine portrait, by Sir Josliua CHAILEY. 75 Reynolds, of Gibbon, who spent many years at Sheffield Place, then in the hands of his friend, John Holroyd, first Earl of Sheffield, is preserved here. Fletchinq Church, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Andrew, is a large Early English building, with a nave, chancel, aisles, transepts, and tower surmounted by a spire. The torwer is Nor- man, and the double windows are divided by Norman balusters. An altar-tomb in the south transept bears a brass for a Sir Walter Dalyngrugge, d. 1395, and his wife. Observe, also, the altar-tomb, with figures, of Richard Leche, d. 1596. Gibbon lies interred in the Sheffield mausoleum. The in- scription, in sonorous Latin, is from the pen of Dr. Parr. The vicarage of Fletching, valued at .£300 per annum, is m the patronage of the Earl of Sheffield. Sir S. Mary on Wilson, Bart, of Charlton, has a pleasant house and grounds at Seiles, adjoining Sheffield Park. The reader will remember that the night before the battle of Lewes, May 13, 1264, Simon de Montfort and the Barons' army encamped in the woods of Fletching, then a dense and almost impenetrable mass ; and it was from this point he moved forsvard to Mount Harry, after the failure of his attempt to negotiate with the king. Regaining the high road beyond Sheffield Park, we proceed through a hilly and sparsely cultivated country, by way of Kid- brook and Forest Row, to East Grinstead(9^ miles). Just beyond Forest Row, a turning on the left leads to the ruins of Bram- BLETYE House, associated in the memory of veteran novel-readers with the scenes of Horace Smith's best romance. It was built, temp. James L, by Sir Henry Compton, whose armorial bearings quartered with those of his second wife, Mary Browne, are sculp- tured over the entrance. It was captured by the Roundheads during the Civil War, and in 1683, while its then owner. Sir James Rickards, was rousing the deer in the great forest-depths of Ashdown, it was searched by the royal messengers, and consider- able quantities of arms and ammunition were found. Sir James fortunately obtained information of the movements of his foes in time to make his escape and retire to Spain. The house was thus left without a lord, and speedily fell into decay. The ex- isting ruins consist of the chief gateway, one square turret, and portion of another. Underneath the building are the domestic jffices and vaulted cellars, displaying some good pointed arches. 76 LEWES TO EAST GRINBTEAD. The valley where Branibletye House is situated is of great beauty and is still clothed with a fresh and vigorous verdure. It is watered by the infant stream of the Medway, which has its source at Turner's Hill, west of East Grinstead Church, and about 4 miles distant. Returning to Chailey, and taking the Cuckfield road instead of the route we have just described, we first arrive (7 miles) at LINDFEELD (population, 866), a village romantically situated in a luxuriantly wooded, " deep-bowered and happy-meadowed " country-side. Its Church, dedicated to St. Michael, has an Early English tower — a nave, chancel, and aisles, Perpendicular. The wall of the aisle is enriched with a curious fresco of great an- tiquity, dating from, perhaps, the fourteenth century. The Virgin is pictured with a glittering nimbus round her head — a small figure kneeling at her feet — and with a staff in her hand which she aims at a six-headed dragon, whose heads, however, have already been severed by her companion, St. Mchael. The robes of the archangel are spotted with the letter M. ; he stands upon the conquered dragon, and weighs souls in a pair of scales. Observe, too, the remarkable et^gy engraved upon three glazed tiles which each measure 15 inches square — 2 feet 9 inches in alL The date is ] 520. The Archbishop of Canterbury holds the right of presentation to the perpetual curacy of Lindfield. In the neighbourhood of this quaint, old-fashioned, and se- cluded village — secluded, though it is scarcely 2 miles from the Hayward's Heath Station on the London and Brighton railway, and about 5 miles from Cuckfield — are some most delectable bits of scenery, some nooks and comers of enchanting beauty, which the tourist should leisurely explore. There are some old houses, too, which deserve examination ; old Elizabethan mansions, with many gables, and twisted chimneys, and curious effects of light and shade : — Pax Hill, East ^Taxalls (the ancient seat of the Newtons), Kenwards (of the Challoners), and Lunt (of the Hamlyns). A pleasantly leafy road, by w^ay of Pax Hill, leads to HOR- STED-KEYNES (population, 715), lying in a picturesque hollow brightened by the waters of the Ouse. Its small Early English chiirch should be visited for the sake of its effigv, 27 inches in WEST HOATHLY. 77 lengtli, of a knight templar — possibly one of tlie Keynes or Chey- ney (from Cahaignes in Normandy) family, who may have fought against the Saracens under the banner of Edward I. Archbishop Leighton, d. 1684, the virtuous primate of Glasgow, who re- sided for ten years — after his resignation of his mitre — at Broad- hurst in this parish, and preached constantly by word and example in the neighbouring callages, lies interred in the south chancel. The rectory, valued at .£342, is in the patronage of Thomas Davis, Esq. Some curious illustrations of Sussex life will be found in the Diary of Giles Moore, rector of this parish from 1655 to 1679, printed in the first volume of the " Sussex Archaeological Collections." For a companion-picture the reader may turn to the Journal kept by one Timothy Burrell, Esq. of Ockendon House, near Cuckfield, from 1683 to 1714, and preserved in the third volume of the same work. A road which passes the church of Horsted-Keynes, crosses a branch of the Ouse, and soon ascends to higher ground, conducts us (4 miles) to WEST HOATHLY (population, 1068). Its Early English Church is large and interesting, and consists of a Per- pendicular tower, nave, chancel, and aisles. At the entrance lie two iron slabs, memorials to members of the Infield family. The fort is ancient. The Lord Cliancellor presents to this vi- carage, valued at ^198 per annum. To the left of the church, about ^ mile distant, and on the very brink of a sandstone cliff, are placed two rocks — one, a mass of about 350 tons weight, being exactly poised on the other, which is a much smaller rock. The villagers expressively call them " Great-upon-Little." According to some authorities they are connected with the old Druidic rites, but the grounds for this opinion seem very unsatisfactory. [ARDIXGLEY (population, 1095) lies about 3 miles south-west of Hoathly, on the eastern slope of a sandstone-ridge of picturesque character. The landscapes here are reproductions, in their general outlines, of the Tunbridge Wells scenery. The Church, chiefly decorated, has an ancient wooden porch, a good oaken screen, stone eflBgies of an unknown knight and a nameless lady, and several brasses, me- morials of the Culpepers of Wakehurst, a branch of the Great Kentish family. Observe the altar-tomb and brass to Richard WaTcehurst, d. 1464, and his wife Elizabeth, with their figures in the costume of the period. — The rectory, valued at £536, is in the gift of Trustees. Wakehurst Place, which is a handsome mansion, lies in the bosom of much 78 LEWES TO EAST QRINSTEAD. agreeable leafiness, about 1 mile north of Ardingley village, and near the East Grinstead road. It was fonnerly the seat of a family of the same name, and after- wards passed to the Culpepers, one of whom, in 1590, erected the present house — a quaint, old-fashioned, and goodly pile.] From West Hoathly we cross the high ground of Sidles- PIELD or SiLSFiELD CoMMON — One of the ancient beacon-stations, and overlooking an extensive prospect — to EAST GRINSTEAD (population of the parish, 5250— /?i?i ; Dorset Arms), an irregularly-built, but pleasant market-town, situated on an ascent which commands a good view of Kent, Surrey, and Sussex. It contains some old timbered houses, and some modern ones of tolerable pretensions, and may probably become the great agricultural depot of northern Sussex. The Church, dedicated to St. Swithin, is, from its lofty position, a conspicuous object from many points in the surrounding land- scape. It is the third that has existed in the short space of a century and a half. The spire of the old building was struck by lightning in 1685, and the tower of the second fell in 1758 and demolished a portion of the church. The present tower is of great height, and adorned with pinnacles. The nave, aisles, and chancel are all of good dimensions. Observe the brass (from the ancient building) of Catherine LewJcner^ of Brambletye, d. 1505, and the stately monument to the first Lord Colchester (better known as "Speaker Abbott"), d. 1829. A brass, and monu- ment of Sussex marble, commemorate Dame Elizabeth Gray, and her two husbands. She was one of the ladies in attendance upon the Queen of Henry VII., and, in conjunction with her second husband, " foimded, indued, inomed this present church to the lawde and honore of God with djrvers ornaments, and an alms- house for three persons." Lord Abergavenny,^. 1744, is com- memorated by a tablet in the south aisle. Lord Sackville has the patronage of the vicarage, which is valued at £468 per annum. East Grinstead formerly returned two members to Parliament, and is now one of the polling-places for the electors of East Sussex. It is 29 miles from London by road ; and connected with the London and Brighton railway by a branch line, 7 miles in length, from the Three Bridges' station. The neighbour- hood is rich in scenery of a somewhat wild and picturesque character. PLUMPTON PALMHB. 79 BRAJS^CH KOUTE, by RAILWAY, from LEWES to BURGESS HILL. At first we are rapidly borne through the fertile valley of the Ouse — the lofty crests of the South Downs looming magnificently to the south west, against the distant and misty skies. At about 3 miles from Lewes we pass on the right, Coneybarrow Park, and reach the Cook's Bridge Station, on a branch of the Ouse. PLUMPTON (population, 383), a pretty village built upon a pleasant green, lies nearly 3 miles west. There are here a small, and not peculiarly interesting Church, and an old moated house, Plumpton Place, the ancieut residence of the Maxalls — one of whom, Leonard Maxall, temp. Henry VIII., first introduced carp, it is said, into this country by domesticating some Cyprinidce of the Danube in the moat which encircled his house. He is also reputed to have brought " the Golden Pippin " into Sussex, but some authorities pronounce it indigenous to the county. The rectory (worth ^337 yearly) is in the patronage of the present incumbent. [Street Place is another interesting old house, IJ mile north of Plumpton. It was the seat of the Dobells, and dates from temp. James I. The library, now converted to " baser uses," is adorned with carved pilasters, and with a cornice which is elaborately lettered with quaint Latin mottoes. Behind the great chimney- place of the haU was a deep recess, used for purposes of concealment, and there exists a tradition that a cavalier horseman, hotly pursued by some "malignant" troopers, broke into the hall, spurred his horse into the recess, and disappeared for ever. Street (population, 170) has a small Early English church. The rectory, valued at £172, is in the gift of H. C. Lane, Esq.] Plumpton Green now lies cm our right, and Ditchling on our left. We soon cross the main road, via Lancefield, to London, and through a hilly and undulating country, reach the Burgess Hill Station, 4.1^ m. from London, and 9 m. from Lewes. Here the main line diverges to Brighton, and passes through a country which we shall hereafter describe [See Route XL] LEWES to BRIGHTON. [Lewes to Palmer, 5 m. ; Brighton, 3 m. ; New Shoreham, 6 m. ; Worthing, 4J m. ; Angmering, 5 m. ; Arundel, 3 m. ; Bamham Junction (for Bognor, see p. 141), 5 m.; Chichester, 5 m.] " That palace or China shop, Brighton which is it ? With lanterns, and dragons, and things round the dome."— Moore. We leave Lewes for Brighton by the branch line which nme through an open country to PALMER (population, 537), a small 80 PROM LEWES TO CHICHESTER. and ])leasaut village where we need not linger, and imderneath which we are carried, by means of a tiinnel 285 yards in length. Shortly afterwards we sldi't the fair demesne of Stanmer Park (Earl of Chichester), a well-wooded and pleasantly-diversified estate, some 1500 acres in extent — and enter a deep cutting three :iuarters of a mile in length. We next pass through two short tunnels, and enter Brighton over the Preston Viaduct — a noble structure of 27 arches, elevated 67 feet above the Preston road (observe, on the right, the cavalry barracks.) We here obtain a good view of the north-eastern suburb of Brighton — pleasant, populous, agreeable Brighton. The monster "watering-place" of England — indeed, the largest in the world — to which we shall be constrained to devote a considerable number of our pages. [Population, municipal borough, 107,528.— Average number of visitors, 30,000.— Hotels : Bedford, Grand, Old Ship, Sussex, Royal Crescent, Royal Albion, Norfolk, German Place: Royal York.— Boarding-houses : Cavendish Mansion, Connaught House, Silwood Place, Dudley Mansion, etc.— Restaurants : Mutton's, King's Road ; Aquarium, etc.—Rinls: at King's Road, West Street, and Hove. 50J m. from London, by rail ; 53 m. by road ; 8 m. from Lewes ; 9 m. from New- haven ; 6 m. from Shoreham ; 4^ m. from Rottingdean ; 5^ m. from the Devil's Dyke ; 9J m. from Bramber ; 28 m. from Chichester. tj. Omnibuses, to meet the trains, between Hove, Brighton, and the Railway Station (on the north of the town). Conveyances, daily, to Lewes and Shoreham. Flys, Is. per mile. Post-Offices ; 3 arrivals and 5 departures daily. Baths : Brill's, Hobden's, and the Turkish. Bathing -Machines, 6d. and 9d. each person. Railway Journey to London 1 hour 15 minutes by express. "Brighton," says Hazlitt, " stands facingthesea,onthe bare cMs, v\ith glazed windows to reflect the glaring sun, and black pitchy bricks shining like the scales of fishes. The towD. is, however gay with the influx of London visitors — happy as the conscious abode of its sovereign ! ever}i:hing here appears in motion — coming or going. People at a watering place may be compared to the flies of a summer ; or to fashionable dresses, or suits of clothes, walking about the streets. The only idea you gain is, of finery and motion." Thackeray, in The Xewcomes, writes of it more eulogistically : — " It is the fashion," he says, " to run down George TV. ; but what mjTiads of Londoners ought to thank him for inventing Brighton ! One of the best physicians our city has ever known is kind, cheerful, merry doctor Brighton. Hail thou BIRI©H1"0N Scale of >2 a Mil ,// J.Bcrd-yu-rn^.' TO^ ^ BRIGHTON. 81 purveyor of slirmips^ and honest prescriber of South Down mutton ; no fly so pleasant as Brighton flys ; nor any cliffs so pleasant to ride on ; no shops so beautiful to look at as the Brigh- ton gimcrack shops, and the frmt shops, and the market. " Mr Iliorne's graphic description "svill interest the reader : — " If some daring engineer were to lift the line of houses facing Park Lane, place them upon the south-coast railway, convey them to the sea- side, and plant them directly alongside the beach, he would make an almost exact resemblance to Brighton a? viewed from the sea. So much does the line of houses facing the cliff re- semble some parts of the West-end, that the spectator who has been shot down from town in an hour by the express-train, find.^ a difficulty in belie^ing that he is far away removed from his old haunts, until he turns to the bright sea, which lies before him like a flat and polished mirror, and champing and frothing upon the pebbly beach below. The western extremity of the town, which is bounded by Adelaide Crescent and Brunswick Terrace and Square, lies comparatively low : and from this point to Kemp Town, which is fully 3 miles to the east, runs a splendid promenade. The life and variety which everywhere meet the eye along this pleasant walk, is perhaps unequalled." The great draw- back of Brighton, however, is its want of shade. It has no trees to afford a coolsome shadow — ^no obscure groves, no ro- mantic bowers — though, indeed. Hood has protested " that of all the trees he ever saw, none could be mentioned in the same breath wiih. the magnificent Beach at Brighton." But now a-days everybody goes to Brighton. It is brought so near to London by the agency of the rail ; the excursion fares are so moderate ; there is such a reality of sea about it — not like that shrimp-abounding town — yclept Gravesend, which is simply h'ochish — that we marvel not the eager Londoner starts away, fifteen minutes before eight, to enjoy " six houjs " at this city of chalk. There are grand, lofty cliffs, glittering hke ramparts of silver or walls of pearl. There is a glorious expanse of ocean- waters, ever varying from blue to green, and green to purple, as they surge and seethe in sunshine or in shadow ; aye, ocean waters, only bounded by the dim circle of the distant sky. And there is a pebbly beach, with huge clusters of dank seaweed, and trim fishing boats hauled up above the tide-mark, and — yes, we mu'^r proclaim it — most loveable groups of dark eyes and blue eyes, bant, apparently, upon their sketch-books, or the pages rf tl-e F 82 BRIGHTON. last new novel. "A day out," if tspent at Brigliton, is a day to be remembered. We once beard a mecbanic, in an excursion train, describe tliis favourite town in language quaint, but not elegant : "It's a stunning sigbt," said our empbatic friend ; " foi all tbe world like Piccadilly gone out to sea !" Certainly, tbere is little sign of antiquity about the good town at present, and yet its annals begin at a period not within the memory of even " the oldest inhabitant." It was, probably, a British settlement, for in its vicinity are numerous traces of the rude fortifications or " earthworks " of our ancestors. That it existed during the Saxon period of English history is indisputable. Its name is Saxon, derived, it is said from Brihthelm, a Bishop of Selsay, and we know that it paid a rent, or " gablum," to Earl Godwin, the great Saxon noble. In 1081, this rental was paid in herrings (4000 bailees) yearly — equivalent, in our money, to something like ^300. There were then two distinct settlements here — one upon the heights, " a colony of landsmen ; " one upon the shore, a village of jugs or fishermen. It was then called Brighthelmstone, a name it retained imtil very recently ; and was numbered among the rich manors bestowed by William the Conqueror on his loyal adherent, Earl de Warrenne, who exercised almost a sovereign sway over the fair county of Sussex. The French attacked the to^vn, and burnt it, in the reign of Richard 11. In 1513, they again made a descent upon the coast, imder " Prior Jehan," but were compelled to retreat, with con- siderable loss. During the war between Henry VIII. and Francis I., in 1545, they harassed the whole southern coast, under their high arlmiral, Claude d'Annebault, who, says the old chronicler, Holinshed, " hoisted up sails, and with his whole na^ie came foorth into the seas, and arrived on the coast of Sussex before Bright-Hamsted (Brighton), and set certain of his soldiers on land to burne and spoile the countrie ; but the beacons were fired, and the inhabitants thereabouts came down so thick, that the Frenchmen were driven to flie, •v\4th losse of diverse of their numbers, so that they did little hurt there." Shortly after this event, considerable fortifications were erected. There was a circular fort, called the Block House, and a battery caUed the Gun Garden, and a flint wall, 400 feet long, " from the east gate westward, Avhere the cliff was lowest ; and lium that point a parapet three feet high, with embrasures for cannon, was continued to the west gate." These no longer exist. BRIGHTON. 83 There was, also, a small battery at the verge of the cUff, on the King's Road, which mountsd six forty-two pounders j but Brigh- ton's present defences are England's " wooden walls," well manned by " hearts of oak." Amongst the interesting events of Brighton history, we must not omit to record the escape of Charles XL from Cromwell's troopers. After the fatal battle of Worcester — which Cromwell might well speak of as his " crowning mercy," for it placed the English sceptre virtually in his hands — the unfortimate king made his way, in disguise, to Brighton, where he arrived on the 14th of October. He passed the night at an inn {The King's Head) in West Street ; and the following morning moved to Shoreham, whence he immediately departed for the French coast, in a small boat belonging to a gallant loyalist, named Tattersall. After the restoration, the Brighton mariner, perceiving that the king's memory was very treacherous, sailed in his little craft to the River Thames, and moored it opposite Whitehall. Charles ordered it to be entered in the Royal Xavy as the " Royal Escape," settled upon the gallant mariner and his heirs an an- nuity of £100, and presented him with a ring, which is now in the possession of a descendant — Sir Henry Shiffner. During the seventeenth century the town suffered severely from the raids of the sea, and in Defoe's time, could only boast of six decent streets. The women employed themselves in weaving nets ; the boatmen were glad to obtain emplojTnent from the Yarmouth merchants in the herring-fishery. In 1703 and 1706 it was further desolated by violent storms. In the latter year no less than 130 houses were swept away, and £40,000 worth of property destroyed by the inundations which accompanied the tempest. In a few years all traces of ancient Brighton were lost under an accumulation of shingle. In 1818, during some exca- vations between ^Middle and Ship Streets, the walls of one of the streets of the lower town, called South Street, were discovered under a layer of beach, 1 5 feet in depth. Brighton, like Ventnor, owes its present prosperity, in the first place, to a physician. Dr. Russell, who removed here from Mailing, in 1750, and resided in a house on the Steyne, — i.e., stane, a rock — where the Albion now stands. His portrait, by Zofiany, is preserved in the Old Ship Hotel. He published a treatise on the advantages of sea-bathing, and drew several patients from London to test the soundness of his theor>^ The Duke of 84 BRIGHTON. Camberland, the victor of Cullodeu, was one of Brighton's ear- liest patrons, and lived in a house north of the Pavilion. The Diike and Duchess of Marlborough also sought the Brighton physician, and resided at Elm Grove. Dr. Johnson accompanied hither ]\Ir. and ]\Irs. Thi^ale and Fanny Burney, in 1770, and declared the country " so desolate, that if one had a mind to hang one's self for desperation at being obliged to live there, it would be difficult to find a tree on which to fasten a rope." Miss Fanny visited the " King's Head Inn" (originally the George), in West Street, and gazed with loyal satisfaction on its sign — a head of his " black- wigged Majesty" Charles II., who slej)t there the night before his escape from Shoreham. The Thrales and their friends resided at No. 75 in the same street. George IV., then Prince of Wales, paid his first visit to Brighton in 1782, and built a house here in 1784 — an epoch in the fortunes of the town duly remembered by all loyal Brightonians. It was not completed imtil 1817, when it was taken to pieces, remodelled, repaired, gilded, decorated, and moulded into the present bizarre architectural model — the Pavilion. The Theatre was opened in 1807. Bedford Square was commenced in 1810. The Chain Pier was begun in 1822 and completed in 1823. Kemp Town, on the estate of Mr. Thomas Kemp, rose into existence between 1821 and 1830. The Marine Wall, 23 feet thick at the base and 60 feet in height, was built in 1827-8 at a cost of ^100,000. In 1841 the Brighton Eailway was opened through- out, having cost £2,569,359, and occupied two years and a half in its construction. Among the attractions of Brighton can scarcely be included its public buildings, and yet there are two or three points of interest to which the tourist must be formally introduced. The Chain Pier, " where for the sum of 2d. you can go out to sea, and pace the vast deep without need of a steward with a basin," is only equalled as a marine promenade by its modern rival the West Pier. From this point the entire " sea-face " of Brighton is seen in a striking manner. It was commenced in 1822, and completed in the following year, under the direction of Captain Sir S. Brown, K.N., and at a cost of £30,000. It is 1136 feet in length and 15 feet in width, is supported by four piers which stand upon piles of oak driven 1 feet into the solid chalk, and by four cast-iron towers, 25 feet high, over which are carried the wrought-iron suspending chains, four deep and two THE PAVILION. 85 inclies in diameter. Each of these four divisions or bridges is 258 feet in length, and has 117 lioks of one foot each. A fear- ful storm in November 1836 overthrew this fragile structure, snapping the suspending rods and breaking the central bridges, and necessitating repairs which cost .£2000. Some injuries were done by a gale during the m'ght of October 15, 1838, but, since that event, it has "withstood in security the heaviest tempests which have visited our shores. The Pavilion cannot be visited by the tourist without recal- ling to his mind the luxurious days when George, Prince Regent, was eulogized as " the finest gentleman in Europe," and ]\Irs. Fitzherbert, " fat, fair, and forty," was the cynosure of admiring eyes. Among liis companions were Lord Barrymore and his two brothers — a trio, known by the expressive nick-names of " Hell- gate," " Cripplegate," and " Newgate ;" Sir John Ladd, of four- in-hand memory ; and Colonel Hanger, renowned as " the Knight of the Black Diamond." Well might Lord Thurlow reply to the Prince's query, " Thurlow, how is it you have not called on me ? You must find a day for dining with me." — " I cannot, your Royal Highness, until you keep better company." On another occasion, when Thiuiow had consented to dine with the Prince, he was informed that Sir John Ladd would also be a guest. The Prince apologized to the surly Lord Chancellor, but with little effect. " I do not object," said Thurlow, " to Sir John Ladd in his proper place, but that I take to be your Royal High- ness's coach-box, and not your table." The Pavilion occupies with its gardens about eleven acres and a half, and is a curious combiaation of domes, minarets, and cupolas, looking, according to Sidney Smith, " as if the dome of St. Paul's had come to Brighton and pupped." Cobbett suggests that " a good idea of the building may be formed by placing the pointed half of a large turnip upon the middle of a board, wdtli four smaller ones at the comer." Nor is this description exag- gerated in its ridicule, and he who gazes upon the monstrous pile can well understand " the intensity," of Sir Walter Scott's feel- ings when he wrote to his friend Morritt, then residing at Brighton (a.d. 1826) : — " Set fire to the Chinese stables, and if it embrace the whole of the Pavilion, it will rid me of a great eyesore." The original Pa\^on was commenced for the Prince Regent by the architect Holland in 1784, but was entirely reconstnicted 86 BRIGHTON. by Nash in 1818 under the immediate direction of the Prince. The royal stables, now converted into an assembly room, cost X70,000. The diameter of the great dome is 250 feet. The Chinese gallery measures 162 feet by 17 ; the banqueting-hall, 60 by 42 ; the music-room, 62 by 41 ; and the rotunda is 55 feet in diameter. These, and several other apartments, elaborately decorated after the Chinese manner, are open to inspection at 6d. admission. In the same suite of buildings is the Corn Exchange (formerly the riding-school) on the west, whilst on the east is the Free Library, the Museum, and the Picture Gallery. "William IV. sometimes resided here, and Queen Victoria occasionally visited it before she purchased Osborne. Her refined taste, however, was disgusted at its semi-Chinese monstrosities, and she intimated her intention of abandoning it as a royal resi- dence. It was then (1849) purchased by the town for £53,000 — ^not a fourth of the sum originally lavished upon it — and has since been adapted for concerts, public meetings, balls, and gene- ral entertainments, remaining a building of no ordinary interest, though of more than ordinary architectural deformity. In the Queen's Park, a pleasant plantation north of the town, is situated the Royal German Spa, where chemical imita- tions of the different German mineral waters are manufactured — to the great benefit of those who are unable to patronize the springs of Marienbad, Pyrmont, Seidschtitz, and Seltzer. The only relic of ancient Brighton is St. Nicholas' Church, situated on the hill north-west of the town. It is mainly Perpen- dicular in style, was built in the reign of Henry VII., and restored, in 1853, in memory of the Duke of Wellington, who often worshipped within its walls, and was for some time a pupil of the vicar. The memorial then erected is a richly decorated Cross, by Carpenter, 18 feet high, in the south chancel. A scroll, entwined about the shaft, bears the magic words, " Assaye, Torres Vedras, Vittoria, and Waterloo." A figure of St. George is inserted in the canopied niche at the top. The east window represents, in rich colours, the miraculous draught of fishes. The perpendicular screen, of painted oak, has been painted and gilded. The Norman circular font, brought, it is said, from Normandy, has its sides adorned with sculptures representing the Lord's Supper, and its base disfigured with the names of the church- wardens who ofliciated in the church in 1743. In tho churchvard are placed tlie memorial-stones of Captain BRIGHTON PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 87 Nicholas Tattersall, " tlirough whose prudence, valour, and loyalty, Charles 11. was faithfully preserved and conveyed to France, ] 651 ;" — Phoebe Hessell, panegyrized by George IV., from whom she received a yearly pension of £18, as " a jolly old fellow," and who, according to her epitaph, " served for many years as a private soldier in the 5th Regiment of Foot in diffe- rent parts of Europe, and in the ye-ar 1745 fought, under the cr)mmand of the Duke of Cumberland, at the battle of Fontenoy, where she received a bayonet wound in the arm. Her long life, which commenced in the reign of Queen Anne, extended to George lY., by whose munificence she received comfort and sup- port in her latter years. She died in Brighton, where she had long resided, December 12, 1821, aged 108 years." There is also a memorial to ^Irs. Crouch, the actress ; and the base of the old churchyard cross is still extant. The Bishop of Chichester has the right of presentation to the vicarage of St. Nicholas. The vicar himself nominates to eight incumbencies — 1. St. Peter's (perpetual curacy), at the end of the Steyne, built in the Late Perpendicular style, by the late Sir Charles Barry, at a cost of £20,000 ; 2. St. Paul's, in West Street, built by Carpenter in 1847 ; 3. All-Souls ; 4. Christ Chtrch (perpetual curacy, valued at £420), built in 1838 ; 5. St. John the Evangelist; 6. All Saints' Church (perpetual curacy, £200) ; 7. Chapel Royal, in Prince's Place, built by Saunders in 1793 ; and 8. St. Stephen's. There are, besides St. James's Chapel, St. Mary^s Chapel, St. George's, Trinity, and St. Margaret's Chapels, and St. Mark's Church. In the way of public buildings Brighton can boast of the School of Science and Art at the foot of Carlton Hill, an elegant building in the modern Romanesque style, the Sussex County Hospital, founded in 1828, and built by the late Sir Charles Barry at a cost of £10,000, — the Victoria wing was added in 1839, and the Adelaide wing in 1841. It is "open to the sick and lame poor of every country and nation." The Brighton College, a proprietary school established in 1847, occupies a handsome Tudor building. St. LIary's Hall, ia Kemp Town, is an institution for educating the daughters of poor clergy- men, and preparing them for governesses. The Town Hall, a large and imposing structure, 144 feet long and 113 feet deep, was erected at a cost of no less than £50,000. Here the macns- trates meet ; the market is held ; offenders are imprisoned ; and 88 BRIGHTON. the borough elections (Brighton returns two members to Parlia- ment) are conducted. Kesuming our rambles, and cursorily glancing at those points of interest which have hitherto escaped our notice, we start from the western suburb of Hove. Here there is an interesting old church, chiefly Norman in its structure. Passing eastward by Brunswick Square we descend upon the beach. Here we may gaze upon a snene as full of life as the greatest London thorough- fare, — and fuller, perhaps, of contrast, — for fishermen hauling up the dingy boats — bathing machines dipping their grotesque hoods into the brine — coils of old cable — fragments of spars, and a net or two — are combined with invalids in Bath- chairs, ^\'ith pedestrians eager to indulge their locomotive propen- sities, and amateur artists outlining sundry picturesque and uncouth objects upon their tablets. A short stroll takes us to the West Pier, which extends 1115 feet out to sea. It ac- commodates 2000 people, and affords a pleasant lounge, with a view of the shore and town. Proceeding eastwards along King's lload. Grand Junction Road, and passing the Aquarium, the Chain Pier is reached. The King's Road, which forms the westernmost portion of the Promenade, or Esplanade, is ter- minated by the open space called the Steyne, over the trees of whose enclosure the minarets and domes of the Pavilion rise against the sky. From this spot the Marine Parade commences, and the ground rises until the roadway is full 60 feet above the level of the beach. We pass Brill's Bath, leaving the Town Hall to our left, and continue our road to Kemp Town. On the beach here we may notice the groynes or jetties, — rows of piles running down into the water, and planked on one side — intended to prevent the loose shingle from being tide-driven out to the east. The Aquarium, between the Steyne and the Chain Pier, now one of the principal attractions of Brighton, was erected by a joint -stock company at a cost of £50,000, and opened in August 1872. With its elegantly ornamented corridors, con- servatory, saloons, etc., it forms a most agreeable lounge and promenade, and is provided with newspapers, periodicals, and the latest telegrams, for the use of visitors. The fish are placed in tanks — forty-one in number, and some of them very large — which are ranged in two of the corridors. These are respectively 220 and 160 feet long, and the length of the whole buildings exceeds 700 NEWHAVEN. 89 feet The sea-water is piimped by steam into reservoirs capable of bolding 500,000 gallons. Another attraction in the depart- ment of natural history is the Museum of British Birds in the Dyke Road, one of the best collections in England, admission Is. Returning from the east end of the town, we may notice Sussex Square and Lewes Crescent, where a tunnel leads under- neath the road to an esplanade formed upon the beach. Arrived at the Steyne we may visit the Pavilion — and the Steyne Gardens, where Mrs. Hone}Tuan resided {See " The New- comes"). In the North Steyne, which is reserved for sub- scribers, there is a statue of George lY. by Chantrey. The South Steyne is open to the public, and contains the Victoria fountain. The Western Road is a thoroughfare deserving notice, and the Hospital and St. Nicholas Church may next be visited. [Hints for Ramules. — 1. By rail to Lewes ; ^isit the Castle and Priory, and Mount Harry. Return by road, via Falmer. 2. Across the Dovrns to Rottingdean, and thence to Newhaven. Keep along the bank of the Ouse to Lewes, and return by rail 3. To the Devil's Dyke, and thence descend into the plains at Kingston, Visit Shoreham, and return by raiL 4. To Worthing, thence to Sompting, and de- scend into Lancing. Return by raU. 5. Keep northward to Patching. Cross the hills to Stanmer, and thence to Falmer. Walk over the Downs to 0\ingdean, and return to Brighton by way of the race-course.] BRANCH ROUTE— BRIGHTON to NEWHAVEN. The walk to Newhaven, along the crest of the glorious South Downs, is one not easily to be forgotten, but rather to be remem- bered as " a joy for ever." Their crisp green sward, their swell- ing lines of beauty, their shadoT\-y coomhes and denes, whether seen in the gray light of early morning, or reddening with the retiring glory of the sunset, have an inexpressible attraction — a charm and a character of their own. And from these lofty heights the eye surveys a wonderful expanse of country ; quiet leafy villages with a gray old church-tower or so ; a picturesque many- gabled house, dating from the stormy days of Tndor and Stuart ; broad reaches of verdurous pasture ; ample stretches of yellow cornfields ; a whirling, sweeping mill, on the brink of a bubbling rivulet ; a noble mansion, crowning a gentle knoll which rises above a mass of vigorous foliage. Then, too, far away to the south glimmers the broad mirror of the Channel ; — its rolling waves seem fixed in repose from the elevation at which we stand, and only a dim, faint echo of its music falls upon the 90 BRIGHTON TO NEWHAVEX. attentive car. If we descend to the shore by one of those gaps in the cliffs, always to be met with near a Coastguard station, we shall find a scarcely less interesting scene. Above us towers a wall of glittering chalk, 300 feet in height, — spotted ^vith layers of flint which incline southward to the sea. Observe the broad masses of calcareous strata, 50 feet thick, in which are frequently found the bones and teeth of the fossil elephant, — brought hither, it may be, from a far off land by floating icebergs during some great natural convulsion in the pre-historic period. On the shore are occasionally discovered fossil sponges of rare beauty, huge am- monites, and those lumps of black bitumen mixed with salt and sulphur, which are kno^\Ti as stromhallen, or stream-balls, — the name given to them by the Early Flemish fishermen. The epicure's delicacy, the icheat-ear, is an inhabitant of the Downs. The shepherds entrap him in this wise : they incise the turf in the shape of the letter T, cover over the hollow, and j)lace at the mouth a horse-hair springe, into which the Avheat-ear flut- ters at the slightest cry or movement, and is consequently caught. " "Wheat-ears," says Fuller, " is a bird peculiar to this country — hardly found out of it. It is so called because fattest when the wheat is ripe, being no better than a lark, which it equalled in the fineness of the flesh, and far exceeded in the fatness thereof. The worst is, that being only seasonable in the heat of summer, and naturally larded with lumps of fat, it is soon subject to cormpt, so that (though abounding within 40 mUes) London poulterers have no mind to meddle with them, which no care in carriage can keep from putrefaction. That palate-man shall pass in silence, who being seriously demanded his judgment concerning the abili- ties of a great lord, concluded him a man of very weak parts, ' because he saw him at a great feast feed on chickens when there were wheat-ears on the table.' " The numerous /a^V^-rm^s and hay-tracJcs upon the green slopes of the Do\^^^s ^^dll not fail to attract the tomist's attention. It is now generally admitted that they originate in the gro^\•th of various species of fungi, but the Sussex shepherds believe them to be formed by the feet of dancing fairies, or, as they are locally called, Pharisees, who, " In their courses make that round In meadows and in marshes found, Of them BO call'd the fairy ground, Of which they have the keeping" — {Drayton). OVINGDEAN — ROTTINGDEAN. 91 OYINGDEAN has a picturesque little Church, partly Norman in style, and partly Early English. For a description of the scenery of the neighbourhood see Ainsworth's novel of "Ovingdean Grange." EOTTINGDE AN {Hotel : White House) is a quiet vHlage with a pebbly beach on the south coast, and lies in a sheltered hollow which opens pleasantly upon the sea. Its neat cottages are em- bowered in trim gardens. Its Early English Church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is maintained in decorous neatness. Here, at a school kept by Dr. Hooker, the author of " The Caxtons" received his early education. Here, too, a band of marauders was bravely repulsed, in September 1377, by Prior John de Cariloco, of Lewes, and his retainers, though the priest militant was unfortu- nately taken prisoner. The Earl of Abergavenny has the patronage of the vicarage, which is valued at £332 per annum. ^P° Balsdean, another hamlet sequestered in a hollow of the downs, lies about two miles inland. An ancient Decorated Chapel is now used as a barn. Remark its thatched roof. The tourist, at 7 miles from Brighton, descends the hills to NEWHAVEN (population, 2549), lying in a deep valley, at the jimction of the Ouse with the Channel. A swing-bridge is thrown across the river. The railway station is on the opposite bank, and communicates with a pier, whence the steamers for Dieppe start daily in connection with certain London trains. The harbour is held in considerable estimation from its position on the exposed coast of the Channel, and is defended by a bat- tery on the hill above. The depth at the mouth in spring-tides varies from 18 to 20 feet ; in neap tides, from 13 to 15 feet. Two wooden piers protect the entrance, which is 106 feet in width. Since the establishment of the Dieppe packet-service, New- haven has risen into a place of some importance. The entries of coasting sliips, inwards, average 280 vessels of 30,000 tons — outicards, 65 vessels, of 7000 tons ; of foreign vessels, inwards^ 135 vessels of 20,000 tons, and outwards, 120 of 18,000 tons. On a hill above the to"vvn — which consists of one long street, crossed by two smaller ones — stands the Church, dedicated to St. Michael, a Norman building, with a nave, north aisle, central 92 NEWHAVEN. tower ornamented hj a single spire and aspidal chancel. The nave and aisle are of recent erection. An obelisk over the grave- yard commemorates the loss of the war-brig Brazen, stranded off the port on the 2d of January 1800, with the loss of her commander and 104 men. Only one life was saved. The rectory, valued at £550, is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. It was at Newhaven Louis Philippe and his queen landed, as Mr. and Mrs. Smith, in 1840, after crossing from Triport in a small fishing-smack. Among those who welcomed him on his arrival was a ^Ir. Smith ; much to the astonishment of the de- posed sovereign, who naively remarked, in ignorance of the myriads of Smiths existing in England — that " he thought he had heard the name before ! " The passage from Newhaven to Dieppe is effected in about five hours. The steam-packets start according to the changes of the tide. In the neighbourhood are some Celtic earthworks ; the nearest is an oval encampment on the summit of Castle Hill. [Between Newhaven and Lewes are the Norman churches of SOUTHEASE (population, 102), and PIDDINGHOE (population, 253), which have a strong family- likeness, as Mr. Lower has pointed out, to the churches in Normandy. Piddinghoe, according to a local saying, is the place where "they shoe magpies." On the opposite hank of the Ouse are the villages of EAST TARRING (population 79), or Tarring-Neville ; HEIGHTON (population, 84), and DENTON (population, 195), commemorated by the jesters of the Dovras as " Heighton, Denton, and Tarring all begin with an A." BISHOPSTONE (population, 32S), which may be easily reached from Newhaven, has a remarkable Church. The tower rises in four stages, each gradually diminishing in diameter. In the first and second stories is a single round- headed window ; in the third, a circular moulded window ; in the fourth, a double window with balusters. The tower-arch is low, but there are traces of an earlier and loftier one. A small spire surmounts the tower. The chancel is in two divi- sions, ■with Norman and English arches. The present windows are all Englisli. Observe the curious porch, and the stone dial and crown over the door, lettered with the name of some Saxon king, Eadric, who was probably its builder. A stone slab, inscribed with a cross, bearing in circular compartments the Agnus Dei, and the symbol of two doves drinking, should be carefully examined. It appears to be the work of some Norman sculptor, who, however, was not ignorant of the spirit and influences of Italian Art. A monument in the chancel commemorates the Rev. John Hurdis, Oxford Pro fcssor of Poetry, and an agreeable didactic rhymester, d. 1801. The epitaph is by Hayley.] PATCHAM — DITCHLING. 93 BRANCH ROUTE from BRIGHTON to THREE BRIDGES. [By the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway.] Allowing ourselves to be borne, with, all the speed of a Brighton express train, through the magnificent landscape wMch spreads away to the eastward, and through Patcham Tunnel, we pass the -village of PATCHAM (pop. 490), which lies to our right. Here there is an old church of the Transition-Norman period, with chancel, nave, and tower, in which were lately dis- covered some frescoes, formerly overlaid with white wash. We then run through a deep cutting and enter the Clayton Tunnel (cost .£90,000, and Ij mile in length), piercing the chalk mass of the Downs, and opening out upon the meadows of KEYMER (pop. 2397), whose Saxon and Norman Church lies about 1 mile east of Hassock's Gate Station Qiassoch, a small wood or coppice). The curacy of CLAYTON (pop. 1111) is attached to the rectory of KEYMER, in the patronage of Brasenose Coll., Oxon. The church, which is lofty but plain, has a Saxon chancel arch some- what unique in form. Beyond Keymer is situated, on the slope of the hills, DITCH- LING (pop. 1069), whose cruciform Church is an interesting and handsome structure (restored). The nave and aisle are Transition-Norman ; with tower, chancel, and transepts Early English. The pillars are built of sandstone, while the arches and ^\'indow tracery (beautifully carved) are of chalk. Passing through the village, we climb the steep and lofty DowTis to their highest elevation, Ditchling Beacon, about 858 feet above the sea level. What a landscape spreads beneath and around ! The rich and leafy plains of the Weald, the vales and groves of southern Sussex, and the brigh^. waters of the boundless sea, lie before us in a light as magical as that which floats over a picture by Turner. The remains of a Roman encampment crown the summit, and recall to the memory the grand old times when yonder rich and fertile Weald was an impenetrable forest, when tidal waters seethed and fi^etted in the broad valley of the Ouse, when Lucullus built his villa on the grassy slopes, and Aglaia wandered in love-musing upon the pebbly shore. The Roman road up the ascent, trod 1500 years ago by the stalwart legionaries of imperial Rome, may still in many places be dis- tinctly followed. 94 BRIGHTON TO THREE BRIDGES. West of Hassock's Gate, nearly three miles from the station, and belted round with oak, beech, and ash, lies HURST-PIER- POINT (population, 2827), — the wood (Inirst) of the Pier-points, — its Early Norman lords. The Church was carefully restored and rebuilt, in the Decorated style, by the late Sir Charles Barry, and its interior is one of unusual interest. The defaced effigy of a templar, temp. Henry III., in the S. transept, and another of a nameless knight, temiy. Ed\vard III., in the N. aisle, are worthy of notice. The view from the churchyard extends to the Surrey hills on the north, Ashdown forest on the north- east, the South Downs on the south, and the forest ridge on the east. Danny Park, an old seat of the Dacres, into whose hands it passed from the Pierripoint family, lies under the hills, south of the village, — a pleasant breadth of green sward and venerable oaks, and an Elizabethan brick mansion, dating from 1595. WoLSTANBURY HiLL, in the rear of the house, is crowned with a Celtic encampment of a circular form. To the left of the road, between the village and the station, stand the headquarters of a society called St. John's College, founded in 1848 to supply education to those in different ranks of Ufe, and now possessing four schools in Sussex, with an aggregate of about 1000 pupils. These are — (1), Lancing, for the sons of gentlemen. (2), Hurst-pier-point, for the sons of farmers, tradesmen, professional men, etc. (3), Ardingly, for the sons of small tradesmen and farmers, mechanics, etc. (4), Bognor, for the daughters of geutlemen, with separate schools under the same roof for the daughters of tradesmen and farmers, and for poor children to be trained as household servants. St. John's College is itself only a branch of a larger institu- tion, which possesses also a college in Staffordshire with two schools, now open, corresponding to those at Hurst-pier-point and Bognor. Resuming our railway journey, we speedily pass the Burgess Hill Station, 41 J miles, and there the point of divergence of the Lewes line. To the right may be descried the village of WIVELSFIELD (population, 1616), with its Early English Church, its masses of trees, and smiling meadows. The County Lunatic Asylum at Hayward's Heath contains accommodation for about 700 inmates. Crossing Hayward's Heath, and the main road from Cuck- CUCKTIELD. 95 field to Maresfield, we reach the Hatward's Heath Station, 37 J miles from London, and 13 miles from Brighton. Here there is a new district church of some pretension. About 2 miles to our left lies CUCKFIELD (pop. 1700 ; Hotel : The Talbot), an agree- able little to^Ti, A\ith good hotel accommodation, though not so busy as before the railway passed it by. It is situated in a charm- ing country, all pasture and grove. Its goodly Early English Church (with a tower and steeple), contains some interesting memorials, and monuments by Flaxman and Westmacott. The vicarage, valued at £6 1 3, is in the Bishop of Chichester's patron- age. There is a district church, dedicated to St. Mark, at Staple- field Common. CucKFiELD Place (W. Sergison, Esq.) is situated west of the town, and is not only interesting as a fine Elizabethan mansion, but as having suggested to Aiasworth the "Rookwood Hall" of his striking romance. " The supernatural occurrence," he says, " forming the groundwork of one of the ballads which I have made the harbinger of doom to the house of Eookwood, ia ascribed, by popular superstition, to a family resident in Sussex, upon whose estate the fatal tree (a gigantic lime, with mighty arms and huge girth of trunk) is still carefully preserved. Cuck- field Place, to which this singular piece of timber is attached, is, I may state, for the benefit of the curious, the real Rookwood Hall ; for I have not drawn upon imagination, but upon memory, in describing the seat and domains of that fated family. The general features of the venerable structure, several of its cham- bers, the old garden, and, in particular, the noble park, with its spreading prospects, its picturesque bits of the haU, ' like bits of ^Irs. Radcliffe' (as the poet Shelley once observed of the same scene), its deep glades, through which the deer come lightly trip- ping down, its uplands, slopes, brooks, brakes, coverts, and groves are carefully delineated." In the avenue that winds towards the house the Doom-Tree still stands : — " And whether gale or calm prevail, or threatening cloud hath fled, By hand of Fate, predestinate, a limb that tree will shed ; A verdant bough, untouched, I trow, by axe or tempest's breath, To Rookwood's head, an omen dread of fast approaching death." In this neighbourhood are Ockendon House, Tye, Slough, and Boaud Hill, all seats of some importance and considerable 96 BRIGHTON TO THREE BRIDG?:S. antiquity ; and Leigh Pond (50 acres in extent),. a fen haunt of the wild-fowl during the winter months. [On the Croydon road, about IJ m. north-east of the station, is situated LIND- FIELD (population, 1814). Horsted-Keynes is 3| m. north-east ; Fletching, 6^ ra. east; Bolney, 4jm. south-west.] We resume our journey through a coimtry side of exquisite luxuriance, and in a few minutes cross the valley of the Ouse by means of the Ouse Viaduct, a magnificent specimen of engineer- ing skill, 1437 feet long, and suj^ported by 37 arches, each 30 feet in span, and about 60 feet high. It was constructed at a cost of £58,000, and is one of the finest in the world. Noble prospects of the surrounding landscapes are here conunanded. At 4 J miles from Hayward's Heath, 16| miles from Brighton, and 33 J miles from London, we arrive at BALCOMBE (jjopula- tion, 961), with its Early English Church, and quiet village lying at the foot of the clay hills, on the southern skirts of the great Tilgate Forest. This district w^as formerly the delta of a mighty river, and ofi'ers to the persevering geologists the remains of enormous reptiles, palms and tree-ferns of an oriental character. Dr. Mantell here discovered the first bones of the huge Iguanodon, and the earliest traces of the mighty Hylaeo-saurus. Tilgate Forest covers about 1500 acres, and presents some pleasant woodland pictures at various points. Wakehurst Place (Sir Alexander Cockburn) is situated 2 miles east. SLAUGHAM (population, 1418), with Slaugham Place, 3 miles west. The latter is a Tudor house of some interest, the ancient seat of the Coverts, whose landed supremacy, in the days of Elizabeth and her successor, extended " from Southwark to the sea." Slaug- ham Church is Early English, and contains some richly-coloured glass, and brasses for John Covert, d. 1503 ; and Richard Covert^ d. 1547, and his three wives ; Jane Covert d. 1586. The rectory, valued at £300, is in tke gift of "W. Sergison, Esq. After leaving the Balcombe Station we quietly enter the Balcombe Tunnel, 6 furlongs and 3 chains in length. The line then skirts the eastern boundary of Tilgate Forest, and cross- ing an open country, reaches the Three Bridges Junction Sta- tion, so named from the intersection of the main roads by the river Mole. These branch lines diverge to East Grinstead, 7 miles cast, and Crawley, 1^ mile, Horsham, 8^ miles wu^u WORTH. 97 The village of WORTH (population, 3209) lies about 1^ mile east of the station, and should be visited for the sake of its curious Church, the only perfect ground-plan of a Saxon church extant in England. It is seated on a knoll, and embowered in trees, and approached by an ancient lich-gate which opens into a quiet and picturesque yard. The plan of the building is cruciform, — the chancel and nave intersected by north and south transepts. The chancel is apsidal. The walls are of roughly-he^vn stones and rubble. Round the building, carefully restored in 1871, and half-way between the ground and the roof, is carried a string- course of stone, and bands of stone at various places diversify the surface. On a double course of stone rise pilasters of irregular long and short work, which support the string-course. The outer buttresses are recent, and the west and south sides are Decorated insertions. In the window over the west door are the De War- renns arms. The transept arches are unornamented ; the chancel- arch has a rude moulding. A small Saxon window remains in the east w^all of the north transept. The font is ancient, and consists of two basins, one placed above the other.* This interesting church may have been built (as a writer in the Sussex Archaeological Collections suggests) by a Saxon " earl " who had settled down in the wild forest of Worth — some traces of which still linger in the high ground — for the sake of hunt- ing the deer. It afterwards belonged to the barony of Lewes, and passed from the De Warrennes in 1347 to the Fitzalans. The rectory, valued at £930, is in the patronage of Mr. G. Banks. At Worth, and in Tilgate Forest, flourishes the scyphophorus microphyllus, a lichen of great rarity ; rhynchospora alba, helio- charis acicularis, carex curta, and epilohium angustifolium. The sandstone dug here, " of a white, pale fawn, or yellow colour,'' often affords the leaves and stems of ferns and other plants. After leaving the Three Bridges' Station, a ride of about 2 miles carries us over the county-border into Surrey. We cross the Mole, and at 25^ miles from London reach the Horley Station. But this portion of the line will be found described in Black's " Guide to Surrey." * At the restoration of the church two Saxon windows and balusters were found in the north wall of the nave, and one in the south walL G 98 BRIGHTON TO HORSHAM. BRANCH ROUTE— BRIGHTON to HORSHAM. [Coach from Brighton to Horsham (5^ miles), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.] The road at first skirts the base of the South Downs, and passes the sequestered village of Preston (population, 2470}— i.«., Priest's to^^^l, because it formed a part of the possessions of the see of Chichester — where the little Early English Church, dedi- cated to St. Peter, and consisting of nave, chancel, and tower, is worthy of a patient examination. On the walls of the nave are some rude frescoes, in red and yeUow, of the murder of Thomas a Becket, she"^v4ng the four knights, and the monk Grim protecting the Archbishop with his arm. St. Llichael, with his scales, is figured on the other side. In the nave lies the tomb-stone of Fra-iicis Cheynel,T)J)., d. 1665, the bitter antagonist of Chilluig- worth, whose grave he profaned with his unseemly violence. Douglas, the erudite author of the " Nenia Britannica," and the father of Sussex archeology, lies iaterred in the churchyard. The vicarage, valued at J250, is in the patronage of the Bishop of CTiichester. Hove, and its two churches, St. Mark's and St. John the Baptist's, are within this parish. Anne of Cleves resided here for a short period. From this point Hollingsbury Castle (2 miles north), a square camp, five acres in extent ; "White Hawk Hill, a triple entrenchment, near the Brighton race-course, three quarters of a mile in circumference, and the camps on Ditchling Beacon may be visited, as the three points of a triangle which commanded the sea-coast, and overlooked the passes of the Weald. The tourist should now leave the high road and ascend the downs to the Devtl's Dyke (5 J miles from Brighton), a remark- able natural fosse, steep, abrupt, and of unusual depth (300 feet), which looks as if the Titans had excavated it as a defence for some enormous stronghold. The legend attached to it is curious : — the Devil, or, as the Sussex hinds more sympathizingly call him, the Poor Man, ^vroth at the number of churches which sprang up yearly in this neighbourhood, resolved to dig a trench from this point down to the sea, and so to inundate the whole country side. But as he was toiling by night with assiduous energy, he was descried by an old woman from the cottage window, who held up a candle that she might the better comprehend his 1,1 THE devil's dyke. 99 design, and Mglitening the devil into the beKef that it was the sunrise, he immediately disappeared. When he found out his error, he was too ashamed of his folly to return, and the Dyke to this day remains — a ^^-itness to an old woman's curiosity and the devil's discomfiture ! On the brow of the hill beyond this immense verdurous fosse, the Romans formed, or rather adopted what the British formed, an oval encampment, defended by a wide ditch and huge vallum, about one mile in circumference. By such means a natural position of defence was rendered more secure from sudden attacks. A pleasant "hostelry," where reasonable " creature-comforts" may be obtained, stands on the brink of the do"s\Ti — a point from which the tourist will enjoy the most magnificent prospect in this part of Sussex. " If Nature had endeavoured to create a surprise for man, she could not have done it more eff'ectually than by leading him over the gradual ascent of a vast down, and then suddenly sinking the earth 600 or 700 feet in a bold escarp- ment, until it formed a plain almost limitless to the eye, and rich in summer foliage and yellow corn. For miles on each side the Downs descend into this plain in an almost perpendicular man- ner. If you throw yourseK down on the edge of this fearful descent on a fine simimer's afternoon, and strain your eyes over the wonderful plain beneath, you gain a sensation of space that scarce another landscape in England can afford. The valley before you stretches north-east to south-west a space of no less than 120 miles, commencing at Maidstone, and only terminating at the Hampshire Downs, near Poitsmouth. To the north and north-west the eye reaches, it is affirmed, but we confess to some misgivings, as far as Croydon and Norwood ; no fewer than six counties being rolled out, in this gigantic map, at the spectator's feet, and these, for the most part, garden or park-like in culture and appearance. Those who are curious about the matter may, it is said, count upwards of sixty churches dotted over the wide landscape. Turning to the southward, the spectator traces dis- tinctly the extensive bay sweeping between Beachy Head and Selsey Bill, with Brighton in the centre. Looking over the ocean to the west, the Culver Cliffs of the Isle of Wight are, on a clear day, seen distinctly by the naked eye, although upwards of forty miles distant ; and a vast expanse of oceam stretches before you" — {Thome). 100 BRIGHTON TO HORSHAM. Descending into the high road, beneath the Downs, we arrive at POYNINGS (population, 261), w^here the Perpendicular Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, with its central tower, transepts, aisle, and nave, will remind us of that of Alfreston (see p. 42), and induce us to accept ]\Ir. Hussey's conclusion, that both were built by the same architect. The font is octagonal, and there are three sedilia in the chancel. The rectory, valued at £375, is in the gift of the Lord Cliancellor. NEWTBIBER (popidation, 161) lies about one mile east of the main road. Tlie Church, dedicated to St. John, has some good painted glass in the east window, and two grave-slabs de- spoiled of their brasses. Newtimber Place (Lady Gordon) is a moated mansion of venerable age. To the north is situated Danny Park (W. T. Campion, Esq.), already described (see p. 94.) Beyond the 48th milestone (from London) we pass the par- liamentary boundary of West Sussex, and one and a haK mile further reach WOODlVLiNCOTE (population, 326), in a weU- wooded but thinly-populated district. The tree-embowered Church is Early English, with nave, chancel, and turret. The rectory is in the Lord Chancellor's gift. [About two miles north lies ALBOURNE (population, 377), on a bourne, or branch of the Adur — it was formerly in the hands of the Juxon family, and Albourne Place (Miss Long) is reputed to have been built by the good prelate who soothed the last hours of Charles the First.— The rectory, worth £225, is in the gift of John Goring, Esq.] At ten miles from Brighton we gain the hill whereon the village of HENFIELD (population, 1850) clusters, some of .its cottages quaint enough in aspect to merit a place in the sketcher's note book. The Church, dedicated to St. Peter, is chiefly Per- pendicular. The nave and south aisle are separated by elongated arches. There is a brass, on an altar tomb, for Thomas Bisshopp, d. 1552, and an epitaph upon Ifeneleh Raynsford, d. 1627, aged nine, of so ludicrous a character in its combination of the Pagan and Christian as to merit quotation : " Great Jove hath lost his Ganymede, 1 know, "Which made him seek another here helow ; SHERMANBURY NUTHURST. 101 And finding none, not one like unto this, Hath ta'en him hence unto eternal bliss. Cease, then, for thy dear Meneleb to weep ; God's darling was too good for thee to keep ; But rather joy in this great favour given, A child on earth is made a saint in heaven." The Bishop of Chichester has the presentation to the vicarage, whicli is valued at £412 per annum. At Chestlem's Bridge we cross a tributary of the Adur, and passing through a fertile country reach SHER^MANBURY (popu- lation, 458), upon another branch of the same river. Sherman- bury Park (S. Copestake, Esq.), was erected, about sixty years ago on the site of an Elizabethan mansion. Tlie Church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a small Early English building, close to the house. It contains a Perpendicular font, and some good modem painted glass. A little to the west of the Place stand the venerable remains of the old moated mansion of Ewhurst, the ancient seat of the Peverels. The arched gateway, with its pointed roof, dates from the reign of Edward I. An open country lies before us, meadows and corn-fields spreaduig on either hand, and in due time we arrive at COW- FOLD (]^)opulation, 975), whose very name savours of abundant and fertile pastures. The Church stands on the left side of the road. The chancel is Edwardian, the nave and south aisle Tudor, and the tower at the west end Late Per^Dendicular. It contains a very fine brass for Thomas Kelond, prior of Lewes, d, 1433, with figures of the Virgin and Child, St. Pancras trampling on a sword-brandishing knight, and St. Thomas k Becket with mitre and crosier. A monastery for Carthusian monks has quite recently been erected here. Our road now enters the woodlands, and passes " under the shade of melancholy boughs." We turn aside from the highway to visit the leafy hamlet of KCJTHUEST (population, 727), and as we penetrate the shady groves of Highhurst — a portion of the once extensive forest of St. Leonard's — from the hills we look back upon the fair landscapes of southern Sussex, bounded afar off 102 HORSnAM. by the glowing waters of the Channel. Near Nuthurst Lodge (J. Nelthorpe, Esq.) are the ivy-shrouded remains of an old moated mansion, and a spring lined with large blocks of stone, and called the Wren's Well. The Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a Decorated building, with panelled ceiling, and remains of ancient painted glass. The Bishop of London is the patron of the rec- tory. We regain the high road at Monk's Gate, and 3 miles further, reach the ancient town of HORSHAM (population, 6804. Inns : King's Head, Anchor), so named from hors-ham, the horses' mea- doAV, and not, as some speculative antiquarians would pretend, from Horsa, the Saxon chieftain, whom they slay at this place. The town stands on the Arun, in the heart of much agreeable and well-wooded scenery, and consists of two main streets inter- secting each other at right angles — a green to the north where bull-baiting used to be practised, and an open area to the south wherein the court-house is situated. Its markets for corn, cattle, and poultry are held high in repute. It returns one member to Parliament. The lordship of the borough has descended from William de Braose to the Duke of Norfolk. To one of the wealthy and powerful members of the De Braose family may be ascribed the foundation of the Church, which is a large and venerable Early English building, dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of a nave, chancel, two aisles, and lofty tower surmounted by a spire. The east window is Perpendicular, and has five lights. There is a note-worthy memorial to Thomas, Lord Braose, d. 1396, repre- senting him in the armour of the period. Unfortunately it is much mutilated. An altar-tomb of Sussex marble belongs, it is said, to Thomas, Lord Hoo, Chancellor of France to Henry VI., d. 1455. A finely sculj^tured effigy and tomb of pure white marble, commemorate Elizabeth Delves, d. 1654. Two brasses remain, — one of a priest in his cope, the other of a man in a furred gown and a w^oman in appropriate dress, — but their inscrip- tions have disappeared. The vicarage, valued at £751, is in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The vicar himself presents to the curacy of St. Mark's, and the perpetual curacy of SoutHWater, (1^ mile south), two churches of recent erection. The Grammar Schoot., adjoining the churchyard, was founded ST. Leonard's forest. 103 in 1532, by Eicliard Collier, for the support of a master and usher, and the instruction of sixty scholars. The loorthies of Horsham are, Nicholas Hortresham, or Horsham, a physician of eminence in the reign of Henry YI. ; and Bamaby Lintot, born in 1675, the publisher of Pope's " Iliad," and Gay's " Trivia," and prose and verse by other " eminent hands." South of the town lies Dekne Park (C. G. Eversfield, Esq.) The ivy-decorated mansion stands on an elevated site, and over- looks a considerable portion of Sussex and Surrey. It is ap- proached from the London road by a fine avenue of beech-trees. One mile east is Coolhurst (C. S. Dickens, Esq.), a picturesque Elizabethan house, with gabled roof and mullioned windows, partly rebuilt about thirty years ago. There are some remains of the ancient edifice at Chesworth, half a mile south-east, the resi- dence of the De Braoses, lords of Bramber. From Horsham we may conveniently penetrate into St. Leonard's Forest, a tract of about 9000 acres, which takes its name from a chapel, dedicated to St. Leonard, formerly situated in the north-eastern recesses. A great portion of the forest is included in the northern division of the parish of Beeding. It was formerly held by the De Braose family, but is now divided amongst various proprietors. The principal avenue contains nearly 16,000 trees, not one, however, of more than eighty years' gro^i;h, their predecessors having been uprooted in a violent storm, — is Ih mile in length, and, from an unhappy athlete who ran the distance for a wager, and fell dead at the moment of victory, is called ^IiKE Mill's Eace. The pleasant vistas in the wide wood- land, through columned aisles of pine, and larch, and oak, and beech, are numerous, and there are many delightful little dells, and a running stream or so lends life, and light, and music to the scene. Nightingales occasionally fill the shadowy arcades with their " most musical, most melancholy " song, and disprove Andrew Borde's assertion that " they will never singe T\i.tliin the precincts of the foreste, as divers keepers and other credible parsons did show me." " The violet of a legend" blows, as one might easily conclude, in these obscure and dreamy glades. The daring horseman who penetrates their mirky depths at night must prepare to ride with a headless phantom, which will not quit him imtil the forest sha- dows are past. St. Leonard engaged here in a fearful contest with a "mighty worm," struggling with him in many places 104 HORSHAM. before he conquered him, and clumps of lilies sprang up wherevei the saint's pure blood was spilled — a sort of allegory, we fancy, if read aright, and a dim reflection evidently of the old "St. J^Iichael and the Dragon" story. As late as 1614, a dragon, we are told, haunted the forest glens ; and " a discourse " concerning this "strange monstrous serpent" was printed and published in London by one John Trundle. " There is always left in his track or path," says the ^vriter, " a glutinous and shine matter (as by a small similitude we may perceive in a snail's), which is very cor- rupt and offensive to the senses ; the serpent is reputed to be 9 feete, or rather more, in length, and shaped almost in the forme of an axeltree of a cart, a quantitie of thicknesse in the middest, and somewhat smaller at both ends. The former part, which he shootes forth as a necke, is supposed to be an elle long, with a white ring, as it were, of scales about it. There are likewise on either side of him discovered two greate bunches so big as a large foote-ball, and, as some think, will in time grow to wings ; but God, I hope, will so defend the poor people in the neighbourhood that he shall be destroyed before he grow so fledge." Within a compass of three or four miles, near the south boun- dary of the forest, the Arun, Adur, and Ouse have their source ; and not far from Coolhurst are two of " the hammer posts" for- merly the indispensable adjuncts of the Sussex iron works. i^° At Fatgate, 3 miles north-east of Horsham, there is a station on the Horsham branch of the London and South Coast Railway. It adjoins the large estate of Lord St. Leonards, who derives his title from his property in this neighbourhood. About 3 miles further, and the railway traveller will see on Ins left the village of EBTELD (population, 1112), seated on a broad and pleasant green, and surrounded by a vigorous growth of oaks. It was once the seat of a considerable iron trade, of which the disused "hammer posts" are now the sole remains. Its Church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is partly Early English and partly Decorated. There are two tombs under the nave arches, bearing respectively the eflSgies of a cross-legged knight, and a kdy in Edwardian costume, which are reputed to be those of Sii- John de Held, and his wife, d. 1 31 7. The vicarage (^180) is in the gift of Mr. Lewin. [RUSPER (population, 539) lies about 3 miles to the west of Ifield. The road across the hills is a pleasant one, and commands some good views of the Weald of CRAWLEY. 106 Surrey, Leith Hill, and the countrj' about Dorking. Gervaise, Archbishop of Can- terbnry, founded here a Benedictine nunnery, temp. Richard I., of which there are no remains. The farm of Norhaks has been held by a family named Multon, ever since the Norman Conquest. " The present proprietor has the chest brought over the water, as he terms it, by his ancestor, the Norman, who first settled at Rusper" —(Horsfield). The Early English Church, dedicated to St- Mary, a small and antique bunding, contains a brass for John de Kyngesfold, and Agnes, his \nle ; and another for Thomas Challoner, d. 1532, and Margaret, his wife. Mrs. Greene is the patron of the rectory, valued at £202 yearly.] We now arrive at the Crawley Station, adjoining the old posting-town of CRAWLEY (population 500), not yet shorn of all its glories. The Brighton four-in-hand still rattles through its streets, but besides the blithe horn of " the guard," a shrill railway whistle awakens its echoes. The neighbourhood is very pleasant, and Tilgate Forest lies within a moderate distance. On the high road stands a venerable elm, a well-kno^Ti object, which arrests the eye of the stranger at once by its tall and straight stem, which ascends to the height of 70 feet, and by the fantastic ruggedness of its -widely-spreading roots. The trunk is perforated to the very top, measuring 6 1 feet in circumference at the ground, and 35 feet round the inside at 2 feet from the base." An old and time-worn oak in the centre of the village is a remark- able object. Crawley Church is chiefly Decorated in style, and has recently undergone a careful restoration. One of the tie beams of the roof is lettered — " Man yr wele bewar ; for warldly good maketh man blynde. Bewar for whate comyth behinde." Situate north of the railway, between West Brighton and Hove, is the newly erected Nunnery of the Sacred Heart, with a chapel handsomely furnished with carved oak stalls. After leaving Crawley a few minutes' ride brings us to the junction-station at Three Bridges. MAIN ROUTE RESUMED— BRIGHTON to SHOREHAM. The road from Brighton to Shoreham lies along the coast, in sight and hearing of the glorious sea. We cross a level of great fertility, the downs rising up to the northward like a formidable bulwark, and descend a slight incline into the valley of the 106 BRIGHTON TO SHOREHAM. Adur. To our right we pass, in succession, tte hamlet of HANGLETON, 1 mile west, with an Early English Church, and a Tudor manor-house, and the neat little church of Aldring- ton, which, after being in ruins for 150 years, was rehuilt in 1877, and arrive at the three Portslades. PORTSLADE — the station is between the two villages of Portslade-by-Sea, to the south, on the banks of the Ship Canal — a modern uninteresting place, and Portslade (the old village), 1 mUe north of the line, hidden away in a hollow. This is the prettiest village in the immediate vicinity of Brighton. The Early English church of St. Nicholas has a fine "ivy- mantled tower." After Portslade is seen the small viHage of FISHERGATE, and on the south bank of the canal, almost on the sea-beach, are tlie works of one of the large Brighton gas companies. SOUTHWICK (population, 2400), 5 m. from Brighton, with a handsome church dedicated to St. Michael. Charles II. is said, whilst waiting for a ship to convey him to the continent, to have hidden himself in an old house (still shown), and in gratitude for his escape to have given the piece of land called the Green. A little farther stands KINGSTON-BY-SEA, where goods are for- warded for the Shoreham shipping. The Church is uninterest- ing, and is but a portion of the original edifice. The railway is carried across the Shoreham flat by a viaduct — the Adur Viaduct — 550 yards in length. Old Shoreham lies to the right, just beyond the Portsmouth road ; New Shoreham occu- pies the banks of the Adur, ui one long, squalid, and winding street, irregularly crossed by other streets. NEW SHOREHAM (pop. 3505. Hotels: Dolphin, Surrey Arms, Buckingham Arms, and Svriss Cottage) rose into importance as Old Shoreham, owing to the gradual silttiig-up of its harbour, fell into decay. The ancient haven, formed by the estuary of the Adur, was early regarded as of some maritime importance, from its position mth respect to the coast of Normandy, and to defend this important pass a Norman stronghold was raised at Bramber, up the river, just as Lewes commanded the Ouse, and Arundel the Arun. King John landed here iri 1199, immediately after the decease of Richard Cceur-de-Lion. He also embarked from hence in the following June on his way to France. In 1346, when Edward TIL fitted out two large fleets of 706 ships, Old SHOREHAM. 107 Shoreham contiibuted 26, whilst London furnished but 25, Southampton 21, and Hull only 16. But early in the fifteenth century the sea made rapid encroachments upon its insecure marshes — the port was destroyed — and the town had fallen into so sad a decline, that in 1432 it could but number 36 inhabitants. It was long before brighter fortunes dawned upon the natives of Shoreham, but, by degrees, a new town sprang up along the banks of the Adur, and in 1724, the population had increased to 640 souls, chiefly employed in " the building and fitting up of ships." The attention of the Government was at length directed to the condition of the harbour, and considerable improvements were effected. The entrance, however, continued to the eastward, at the rate of a mile in forty years, until the present substantial piers were erected by Clegram, in 1819, and a species of canal fenced in. The mouth is now 218 feet A^ade, and at spring tides has about twenty feet depth of water, fourteen feet at neap, and only four feet at low. A light-house has been erected for the convenience of mariners. The principal imports are corn, deals, firewood, and potatoes ; the export, coke, etc. About 670 ves- sels, of 75,000 tons, enter the harbour yearly. The handsome Suspension Bridge, built in 1833 at the expense of the Duke of Norfolk, by Clarke, the architect of the Hammersmith Bridge, is not only an ornament but an advantage to the town. It shortens the distance between Brighton and Worthing by 2 miles. The Custom House was built in ]830, and designed by Smirke. Two Hospitals, and a Priory of Carmelite Friars, are said to have existed here. During the summer months the Swiss Gardens are a great attraction. The timber bridge over the Adur {divr, water), at Old Shoreham, 500 feet long and 12 feet wide, was erected in 1781. The principal historical association of Shoreham is the escape of Charles II. after the defeat at Worcester, and his preservation at Boscobel. Crossing the country, attended by Lord Wilmot, he reached Brighton on the evening of October 14, 1651, and passed the night at the George (now the King's Head) Inn, in West Street. Early on the following morning they set out for Shoreham, where Captain Nicholas Tattersall had moored his bark, and when the tide served, effected their embarkation undetected. On the same day (October 15th) the Earl of Derby, one of Charles's stoutest adherents, was executed at Bolton. 108 SHOREHAM TO HORSH.VM. The Cliiirches, both at Old and New Shoreham, possess ar. unusual interest for the archaoologist. Old Shoreha^i Church (| mile west) is an Early Norman church, cruciform in plan, and " remarkable for the small number of windows, and the consequent darkness of the nave ; as also for possessing on the tie-beams of the chancel the tooth-moulding which is very rarely found carved in wood." The central tower is supported by four enriched circular arches of conspicuous beauty. An oblong -window in the south transept has a zigzag moulding. Mr. Ferrey has " restored " this interesting edifice with commendable care — The vicarage, valued at £458, is in the gift of Magdalene College, Oxford. New SnoREHAii Church was probably erected about 1100. It contains some Norman portions, and additions in Transition- Norman and Early English. " When entire it was a stately and capacious edifice of a cruciform shape, having a tower 83 feet high, rising from the centre of the cross. The nave has been long destroyed, and what remains consists of a choir, with side aisles, transept, and tower. The walls of the choir, now used as the parish church, rise considerably higher than those of the tran- sept ; two massive flying buttresses support the upper part " — {Horsjield). The windows in the aisles are semicircular ; in the south side they are of a later date. The choir is divided into five bays by Early English arches, springing from columns whose richly foliated capitals should receive a careful examination. The exterior mouldings of the arches are similarly enriched. The east end has a triple lancet window, surmounting three semicircular Norman windows. The transept and the tower are Norman and Transition-Norman. There is a brass of the time of Edward IV. The vicarage, valued at £127, is in the patronage of Magdalene College, Oxford. BRANCH ROUTE from SHOREHAM to HORSHAM. [The branch line of the Brighton Railway to Horsham embraces much the same tract of country as is hereinunder described. The stations are Bramber, 4 m. ; Steyning, 4^ m. ; Henfield, 8 m, ; Partridge Green, 10 m. ; West Grinstead, 12J m. ; SouthAvater, 15^ m. ; Horsham, 20 m.] As we ascend the Do^svus from Old Shoreham to Bramber, two quiet, secluded, but picturesque villages may be discerned in the valley beneath, and on the west bank of the Adur — CooMBES and St. Botolph's. COOMBES STETNINQ. 109 COO^IBES (population, 72), wliose situation is indicated by its name, lies in a hollow, from wHch, on every side, rise tlie ver- durous hiUs. A thick environment of trees is about it. Ite Church is Early English, and would, perhaps, accommodate, in an emergency, 150 persons. The Wyndham family hold the patronage of the rectory, which is valued at .£201 per annum. ST. BOTOLPH'S (population, 55) Hes upon a ridge of chalk, which slopes somewhat abruptly into the valley of the Adur. The church is small, consisting of a nave, chancel, and low tower. The vicarage has long been annexed to the rectory of Bramber. And it is at BRAMBER (population, 130), 5 miles from Shore- ham, that, crossing the river, we next arrive, Bramber, the Saxon fortress {Brynamburh), the Norman stronghold, the considerable market-toTVTL, the corrupt parliamentary borough, the quiet old- world village — for such are the mutations it has undergone. Here, on the hill, against whose base the tidal waters of the Adur fretted, the Saxon kings, probably on the site of a Roman encampment, erected a castle, which commanded the narrow pass. After the conquest, castle and barony were bestowed upon William de Braose, the builder of the massive fortress whose scanty ruins still excite the tourist's admiration. It occupied an area of three acres (560 feet by 280), on the brink of a steep abrupt spur of chalk which jutted out into the morasses of the Adur. On the west, south, and north, the castle was defended by a stout vallum and deep fosse, on the east the river-marshes were suffi- cient protection. Only a fragment of the barbican tower, and some crumbling stones, remain as the solemn " Hie jacet " of the once powerful race of De Braose. Beneath the castle ruins stands the old Norman Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of the Anglo-Normans. It consists of a nave and chancel, divided by a Norman arch, but has evidently been of larger proportions. Magdalene College, Oxon, has the patronage of the rectory, which is valued at £160. STEYNING (population, 1664. Inn: the White Horse)— from stean, a stone — a Roman via, or Stane Street, having for- merly connected Arundel with Dorking, lies about half a mile beyond Bramber. An omnibus runs between it and Shoreham thrice a-week. no SHOREHAM TO HORSHaM. The tide anciently rose as high as Steyning, whose harbour was the well-known Portus Catidianni. It stands at the foot of a hill — one vnde street numing north-west, from which another diverges in a north-easterly direction to the Church. The chief traffic is in cattle, a market being held once a fortnight. The ancient Church (dedicated to St. Andrew) was founded by St. Cuthman, a saint whose life was one long series of miracles. "When, as a youth, appointed to the care of his father's sheep, he defied all hostile influences, and saved himself " a world of trouble" by drawing around them a mysterious circle, into which none could break. He travelled with his widowed mother into " the far east," wheeling her in a sort of barrow, whose cords snapping asunder he made use of some elder twigs. At the expedient some haymakers s illil y laughed, and lo ! the rain ever afterwards descended upon their fields when the hay was ready for the gamer. At Steyning the elder twigs broke, and there he consequently resolved to locate himself. Having built a hut, he erected a wooden church, where he regularly worshipped, and where he was interred. To his grave in due time flocked the wayfaring devout, and around the little timbered sanctuary a town speedily arose, and St. Cuthman became a word of love and reverence for all the country side. The Saxon Ethelwulf, king Alfred's father, was afterwards buried here (?), and Edward the Confessor bestowed the church on the Benedictine Abbey of Fecamp (in Xormandy), whose monks established a small cell. The present Church probably occupies the site of Cuthman's building, and is purely Norman, with additions in the Early English style. It appears to have been designed as a cruciform structure, and never completed. The nave is exquisitely beauti- ful. It has five bays, whose arches, as well as the capitals of the piers, are elaborately enriched. Each column is 3 feet 8 inches in diameter. The chancel was restored by the late Duke of Korfolk ; the chancel-arch is 38 feet in height. There is a large square Norman font. Most of the building and the ornamenta- tion date from 1150. Some old wainscoting is preserved in the panelling of the vicarage dining-room, and two ancient crossed stones will be observed in the garden. In Church Street stands an ancient house, called Brotherhood Hall, bestowed by Alderman Holland of Chichester upon the Grammar School in 1614. In this neighbourhood the ornithologist will meet with the WISTON. Ill Nvood-warbler, piirple heron, reed-warblerj and little bittern ; and the botanist with salicomia radicans, vicia lutea, spiridia fal- mentosa, and polysiphonia fibrillosa. One imle and a half east of Steyning lies WISTON (population, 256), a neighbourhood of the highest interest, from the picturesque character of its scenery, and the romantic nature of its associa- tions. Just beyond the Church the Downs rise up to a noble elevation, inferior only to Ditchling and Firle, and the fir-crowned height of Chanctonburt Ring, at 814 feet above the sea-level, becomes " a thing of wonder " to all West Sussex. The views from this glorious eminence are worthy of the Downs, and embrace all that vast variety of scenery — of dale and hill, and glen and grove ; of gabled farmhouse and ivied tower — which is peculiar to the landscapes of England. The circular encampment called "the Ring" is British, but Roman coins have been discovered here, and the Roman via passes at the foot of the hill. WiSTON House (Rev. John Goring), with "its ancient and well-wooded park," lies below the Downs, and overlooks a valley of unusual beauty. The grounds are well arranged, — its " undu- lating surface" and "stately forest-trees" lending them all the charm of varying light and shade. The house is a goodly Tudor pile, erected by Sir Thomas Shirley about 1576, and much "im- proved upon" by his successors. The hall, 40 feet ia length, breadth, and height, has a noble groined roof ; the dining-room retains the original oaken wainscot. The manor passed, by marriage, from the family of De Braose to that of Shirley. Of the latter race came several Sussex wor- thies. Sir Hugh Shiiiey was one of the knights who, disguised as the King, fought with the Douglas on the field of Shrewsbury, 1403, — " the spirits of Shirley, Stafi'ord, Blunt," alike unequal to cope with the valour of the Scot. Another Shirley fought at Agincouit. Sir Thomas, who built the Wiston manor-house, begat three extraordinary adventurers, — " The Three Brothers, Sir Thomas, Sir Anthony, and ]\Ir. Robert" — whose romantic career was made the subject of a play, " written by a trinity of poets, John Day, William Rowley, and George Wilkins," in 1607. Thomas, the eldest, fitted out three vessels, manned them with 500 choice spirits, cruised in the Greek Archipelago, was captured and imprisoned at Negropont, ransomed himself for 40,000 112 BHOREHAM TO HORSHAM. seqiiins, and died in tiie Isle of Wight. . Anthony fought at Zut- phen with Sir Philip Sidney, and against the Portuguese in Africa; departed to Persia in 1598, on a mission of political im- portance ; drank at Aleppo of coffee — " a drink made of seed that will soon intoxicate the brain ; " was created a Mirza by the Shah ; despatched to Europe with the powers of an ambassador ; quarrelled with the Persian Court ; became Admiral of the Venetian fleet in the Levant, and died in 1631. Robert Shirley accompanied his brother to Persia ; obtained a distinguished military command ; was sent as ambassador to Europe to form a confederacy against the Turks ; married a Circassian lady, named Teresia ; was received in Germany, Rome, and England with great distinction ; deceived, and finally dicavowed by the crafty Per- sian ; and died of chagrin and disappointment, at Kazveen, in 1628. His adventures have been graphically narrated by Stowe. WiSTOX Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a Decorated build- ing. The manorial chapel, at the east end, contains a beautiful brass, inlaid with the words •' Jesu Mercy," for Sir John de Braose, d. 1 42 6, who is figured in full armour, a helmet on his head, and a gorget round his neck. The inscription runs — " Es testis Xte, quod non jacet lapis iste corpus ut ornetur, sed spiritus ut me- moretur. Hinc tu qui transis, medius, magnus, puer an sis. Pro me f unde preces, quia . . . spes." On the north side, under an arch, lies the effigy of a child. Sir William Shirley is commemo- rated by a monimient which represents him standing on a rock, in an attitude of prayer, and lifting his hands towards a dove — the symbol of the Holy Spirit. Against the wall are the effigies of Sir Thomas Shirley, the buUder of Wiston, and his wife Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Kempe of Ollantighe, in Kent. As we continue our journey northward we pass, 3 miles from Steyning, through the village of Ashurst (population, 441) — the Ash-wood — whose Early English Church stands at some slight distance from the road, and consists of a nave, chancel, south aisle, and low shingled spire. Tlie patronage of the rectory, valued at <£352, belongs to Magdalene College, Oxon. Three miles further, we arrive at WEST GRIXSTEAD (jDopu- lation, 1252), the centre of a great corn-gro^\Tng district. The Church, dedicated to St. George, stands on the right side of the ♦•oad, at a small distance from the river Adur. Its architecture WEST GRINSTEAD. 113 exhibits specimens of the Norman, Decorated, and Perpendicular styles. The projecting wooden porch has a niche above the entrance, wherein a figure of the Virgin formerly stood. The Burrell Chapel contains two large and fine brasses: one for a female, reported to be Philippa, wife of John Halsham, and one of the co-heiresses of David de Strabolge, Earl of Athol, d. 1385 ; the other for Hiigo Halsham, d. 1441, and his wife JoaUj d. 1421. A monument, ^vith two figures in Roman costume, by ^ysSracA, commemorates William Poiclett, d. 1746, and his wife Elizabeth. Flaxman is said to have admired it — an extraordi- nary proof of the great sculptor's good nature ! The sarco- phagus and urn for Williajji Burrell, d. 1796, the collector of the Burrell MSS. (British Museum) on points connected with Sussex history, were executed by Flaxman. The WjTidham family hold the patronage of the rectory, which is valued at £791. West Grinstead Park (Sir W. Burrell, Bart.) skirts the Horsham road, which divides it from Knepp Park for some dis- tance. It was erected by Walter Burrell, Esq. in 1806, and if not designed in the purest form of Gothic architecture, is cer- tainly an imposing and stately pile. Indeed its position would redeem from mediocrity a far inferior building. It stands near the site of an old mansion, which was long the residence of the Caryls, one of whom was the host and friend of Pope, and sug- gested to him the "Rape of the Lock :" — " What dire offence from amorous causes springs; What mighty contests rise from trivial things, I sing. — This verse to Caryl, muse ! is due : This even Belinda may vouchsafe to view : Slight is the subject, but not so the praise, If she inspire, and he approve my lays.'' " Prjpe's Oak" is still pointed out in the park, which is luxuri- antly wooded and charmingly diversified. Knepp Park (Sir W. W. BurreU, Bart.) lies upon our left. Its stately castellated mansion, built by the late proprietor, stands on an ascent overlooking some attractive scenery and a magnificent piece of water, whose banks are fringed with some noble trees. There is here a good collection of portraits : — Anne of Cleves, by Holbein ; Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Hol- bein ; Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, Holbein (engraved by Hol- H 114 SHOREHAil TO HORSHAM. Jar) ; Sir Henry Guldeford, Comptroller of tlie Household to Henry VHI., Holbein (engraved by Hollar) ; Lady Guldeford (engraved by Hollar) ; Sir Richard Rich, Chancellor to Edward VI., Holbein ; Algidiis, a learned person employed by Francis I. to visit the East on a commercial mission, Holbein ; a Woman of rank, name unknown, Holbein; Sir Robert Cotton, founder of the Cottonian Library, Vansomer^ engraved by Vertue ; William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, Vansomer^ engraved by Papoeus in 1617 ; Ley ens. Chancellor of Brabant, Philip de Champagne ; Cornelius Van Tromp, Frank Hals; Henrietta Maria, a whole length, Vandyke; Charles H., Sir Peter Lely ; Lord Lumley, Vansomer ; A Head, Quintin Matsys ; Sir Merrik Burrell, Opie ; Sir William Burrell, who mainly formed this interesting collec- tion, Reinagle ; Lady Burrell, Leslie; and Sir C. M. Burrell, ReinagU. Observe, also, the sea-views by Vandervelde, a battle- piece by Bourguinon, and two specimens of Albert Durer. The ruin of Knepp Castle — a part of a Xorman inner tower or keep — stands on a knoll about half a mile west of the present mansion. It was erected as a "hunting-box" by one of the De Braoses, who here maintained a numerous establishment and a large kennel, and often "roused the hart" in the neighbouring woodlands. Kxepp is derived from the Saxon aioep, a hillock, indicative of its position. It is situated in the parish of SHIP- LEY (population, 1160) — z.e., the sheep meadow — whose Nor- man Chorch, dedicated to St. Mary, stands to the left of a lane which joins the Horsham road near Southwater. The tower is two stories in height, and surmounted by a low shingled spire. The flat oaken ceiling has been enriched with colours. A curious reliquary of wood is preserved in the church chest. It is 7 inches long and 6 inches high, enamelled, and gilt on the sides and ends with the subject of the Crucifixion and angelic figures. The let- ters X P S, in Greek characters, surmount the Cross. It was possibly brought from Byzantium by the Knight Templars, to whom the church formerly belonged. Remark the altar-tomb and effigies, in vari-coloured marble, and restored about thirty years ago by Carew, for Sir Thomas Caryll, d. 1616, and his Margaret. The epitaph is very quaint : — " Aske not who lyes entombed, that crime Argues you lived not in his time ; rrCHINGFIELD WASHINGTON. 115 His virtues answer, and to fate, Outliving him, express their hate, For stealing away the life of one Who (but for fashion) needs no stone To seek his praise. His worst did dye. But best part outlives memorie. Then view, reade, trace his tombe, praise deeds Which teares, joy, love-strains causeth, breeds." ^p° From Sliipley to Horsham is about 7 miles. The road lies through, a pleasant agricultural district, but passes no object of particular interest. At 3 miles from Horsham we pass through SouTHWATER, a pretty well-wooded hamlet, wdth a new district church, and afterwards skirt the grounds of Denne Park (see p. 103), turning to the right out of the main road, and entering Horsham at a point near the ChurcL ITCHINGFIED (population, 371) Hes to the west, in the heart of numerous leafy shaws, and surrounded by many fine old oaks. At almost every point the sketcher will find a charm- ing woodland landscape. The rude Decorated Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, consists of a nave, chancel, low oaken spire and tower. An old font of Sussex marble was dug up in the church- yard some years ago. It is said that a skull and cross bones used to be adhibited to one of the rafters of the church. BRANCH ROUTE— SHOREHAJM to PETWORTH. The Petworth road, as far as Steyning and Wiston, has been already described. After leaving Wiston Place it skirts the base of the chalk downs until at Storrington it makes a sudden curve, and strikes inland towards the hills of Pulborough. Our first halting-place is at WASHINGTON (population, 884), whose small Church is mainly Early English. It consists of a nave, chancel, north aisle, and low embattled tower, and contains a monument to Johannes Byne, with two figures in the costume of the sixteenth century. The vicarage, valued at £63, is in the patronage of Magdalene College, Oxon. A grave-slab in the churchyard bears the following curious epitaph upon one Carolus Goring, d. 1821 : — 116 8H0REHAM TO PETWORTn. " Ab orienti redux incorruptus. Optimatibus improbusque invisus, Divitiarum honorumque spretus, Populi salutis et potentise vindex." SULLINGTON (population, 243), a settlement of the Saxon Syllingas (so Angmering of the Angmeringas, Poling of the Polingas, Beeding of the Bedingas ; — see Kemble's " Saxons in England"), lies about 1 mile south of the turnpike road. The Downs, which are spotted with numerous Saxon tumuli, form the southern boundary- — a glorious swarded rampart, which seems to reach the very skies ! Ascend them, and before you stretches the valley of the Adur — the third of the great passes or defiles in the huge chalk range which runs across Sussex in a line parallel with the coast — and beyond it the glittering expanse of the Channel, while far away to the south-east rises the gleaming clifFs of the Isle of "Wight. The view to the north embraces a considerable portion of the verdurous and leafy Weald, watered by the Adur, the Anm, and their numerous tributaries : — " A land of streams ! some, like a downward smoke, Slow-dropping veils of thinnest lawn, did go ; And some through wavering lights and shadows broke, EoUing a slumbrous sheet of foam below." SuHington has an Early English church, dedicated to St. Mary, which contains the mutilated efi&gy of a knight, temp. Henry III, said to be that of Sir William de Covert, but with that exception there is nothing special to interest the visitor. Not above 1^ mile beyond Sullington we pass through the \illage of STORRINGTON (population, 1038). The common (on the right) is a favourite resort of the rabbit tribe. The vil- lage consists of two long streets, intersecting each other at right angles. The Church has a nave, chancel, noi-th aisle, and low square western tower. The chancel alone is ancient ; the rest of the building was rebuilt in 1731. It contains two sculptures by Westmacott ; a sarcophagus, with military emblems, for Sir Henry Bradford^ d. 1816; and a female figure for Major i^a?cow€r, d. 1827, and his daughter. There is an inlaid slab commemorative of Ilenricui Wilshe, a priest, d. 1591. PARHAM. 117 There is a comfortable imij the "Wliite Horse, in the village of Stomngton. The road now bends to the north, and brings us to the Park and Village of PAEHAM (population, 55), the latter a mere cluster of cottages situate on the outskirts of Lord Zouche's noble domain. Parham House, a picquant Elizabethan structure, nestles in ihe shadow of the Downs, and looks out upon a luxuriantly wooded breadth of hill and dale, and glen and lawn. Under the leafy branches of the vigorous trees repose a fine herd of deer. Kare plants and glorious blossoms brighten and enrich the well-ordered parterres. The house was built by Sir Thomas Palmer about 1540, and, in 1597, passed into the hands of the Bisshopp family, afterwards Lords de la Zouch. The present representative is the Baroness de la Zouch, who married, in 1802, the Hon. Robert Curzon, the well-known traveller, and author of an interesting work on the " Levantine Monasteries." Mr. Curzon has formed here a most valuable library, rich in MSS. and early printed books, as well as a collection of works of art of the most recherche character. Permission is readily given to the tourist to inspect the greater portion of these costly treasures, and we shall briefly indicate the objects of the highest interest. Li the Hall, remark the escocheon of Queen Elizabeth point- ing out the spot where the great lady sat at dinner, in 1592, when she visited Parham on her way to Cowdlay. Remark, too, the interesting collection of armour, principally of the fifteenth cen- tury, brought from the church of St. L:ene at Constantinople by Mr. Curzon, and carefully arranged in veritable armoires. These helms, and gorgets, and hauberks encased the stout frames of the gallant Christian knights who, in 1652, defended Constantinople against Mahomet H. Here, too, are the sword of a German Hei- denmauer, or headsman, beneath whose sharp edge many a chival- rous life has gasped out ; a thumb-screw, and an old iron lock from a house which formerly stood in Chichester High Street ; two ancient helmets (one Etruscan), recovered from a tomb at Bari in Calabria ; a shield which was borne by the handsome and ni-fated Courtenay, Earl of Devon, whose misfortune it was to attract the favour both of Mary and Elizabeth ; some pieces of armour engraved by Hans Burgmais for Maximilian of Austria ; the garniture of the Mameluke horse : an English helmet of the 118 SHOREHAM TO PETWORTH. tweKtli, and some Venetian helmets of tlie fifteenth centuries ; a model of a Greek casque, discovered at Delphi, and probably " the salve (or offering) of some ingenious Greek who had vowed a helmet to Apollo," and cheated the god in this subtle fashion ; some richly ornamented oriental armour ; and a copper-gilt cham- fron and gauntlet, which appear, from the purport of their Arabic inscriptions, to have belonged to the chivalrous Saladin Remark, in the Small Drawixg-room, two Interiors by Ostade ; four pictures of the Seasons, finely enamelled on copper, by Pierre Courtois of Limoges ; and a Holy Family, Pontormo, purchased in Italy by ^Ir. Curzon. In the DiNiNG-RooM, a portrait of Lady Wilmot Horton, with Lord Byron's verses, in his own handwriting, — " She walks in beauty, like the night of cloudless climes and starry skies ;" and a portrait, by Gaitishorough, of Lady Frederick Campbell, widow of the Earl Ferrers, who was hanged at Tyburn with a silken cord for the murder of his steward. The Drawing-Room contains — Sir Philip Sidney, Lady Sid- ney, and Robert, Earl of Leicester, by Zucchero ; Mary Curzon, gouvemante of Charles the First's children, Vandyke ; the great Constable Bourbon, Titian ; St. John the Evangelist, a sketch, Raffaelle ; two landscapes on copper, Ricci ; the Holy Family, Jacohello Flores ; a Holy Family, Carlo Maratti ; and numerous portraits by imknown masters, including those of Sir Francis Walsingham, Lord Crewe, bishop of Durham, and the Prince of Orange, father of William the Third. The Gallery, 150 feet long, is a noble room, full of valu- able relics and interesting portraits. Observe the Egyptian ark, of sycamore, brought from Thebes by iMr. Curzon, and adorned with hieroglyphics, indicating its construction during the reign of Amunoph, 1550 B.C. Its dimensions, compared ^ith those of the ark of the covenant (see Exodus, chap. 25), which is generally dated from 1500 B.C., are as follow : — Length. Width. Height Parham Ark, 2 ft. 9 in. 1 ft. 1 in. 1 ft. 4 in. Ark of the Covenant, 4 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 3 in. 2 ft. 3 in. When discovered, numerous figures of the Egyptian gods were in its interior. Observe the collections of rare china, and literary antiquities, WIGGONHOLT — GREATHAM. 119 squally unique in their way. The pen-case of Henry VI. is among the latter. Among the portraits are Charles Paget, brother to the Lord Paget, implicated in Babington's conspiracy ; Sir Henry Wotton, by Jansen; and Queen Elizabeth at the age of 25. A Roman pig of lead, excavated at Pulborough, lies upon the floor. The Chapel, at the end of the Gallery, contains figures of St. John and two monks, by Andrea delta Rohhia ; some good stained glass, a curious Elizabethan font, and much admirable wood-carving. The picturesqueness of the Park will enchant the artist. Clumps of venerable trees chequer with floating shadows the crisp green sward, while the soft swell of the Downs is seen through a frame-work of the richest foliage. A famous heronry is located in the depth of the pine wood. Its history is curious : From Coity Castle, in "Wales, the birds were removed, temp. James L, by Lord Leicester's steward, to Penshurst. Two hundred years later they emigrated to Michel Grove, near Arundel, whence, twenty years ago, disturbed by some meditated improvements of the Duke of Norfolk's, they transported themselves to Parham. They assemble early in February, repair their nests, lay early in March, and watch over the young fledglings through the summer. " The trees are never entirely deserted during the winter months, a few birds, probably some of the more backward of the pre- ceding season, roosting among their boughs every night." There are now fifty-eight nests. Parham Church, repaired and modernized in 1800, adjoins the house. The leaden font bears the armorial distinctions of Andrew Purcell, 1351, and the inscription, in Lombardic letters, Ih'C NAZAR {Jesus Nazarenus). There is nothing noteworthy in the church besides this, and visitors will find more objects of interest in the house and park. After leaving Parham, the road crosses Wiggonholt Common, and leaves WIGGONHOLT (population, 39), or rather its church, for half-a-dozen houses can scarcely be termed a village, on the left. Just beyond is GREATHA:M (population, 76). Both churches are Early English, and both parishes — chiefly arable and meadow-land, comprising 1770 acres — are very scantily populated. The two rectories are held by one incumbent valued at £205, and in the gift of the Hon. R. Curzon. 120 SHOREHAM TO PET WORTH. On tlie l»ank of tlie Ariin, and at the foot of a considerable range of hills, stands PULBOROUGH (population, 1825 — Inn: The Swan) — i. e., pwl, water, and hjrig, an encampment — two words which aptly indicate its position. The church is situated very near the point of intersection of the Horsham and Retworth, and Arundel and Dorking roads. The great Roman via, from Regnum (Chichester) to Londiiuum, passed through this neigh- bourhood ; and possibly the Latin epicures appreciated, as highly as the gastronomes of a later day, the eels, pike, and trout which here disport themselves in the Arun. At Old Place there are some remains of a house built in the reign of Henry VI., and of a bam whose general style of architecture seems Edwardian. The manor formerly belonged to the Apsleys. Numerous Roman relics have been found, as might be expected, in this parish, and in the vicinity of the great Regnum highway. Four pipes of lead — one of which is at Parham — were discovered here in 1824. They were lettered — « TCLTRPVTBREXAVG," which has been interpreted, with much ingenuity, as an abbre- viation of Ti. a. Tr. Pvt. B. Rex. Avg., i. e., " Tiberius Claudius, Tribunitise Potestatis, Britanniae Rex, Augustus." — {GentlemarCs Magazine). At Mare-hill, in 1817, the remains of a Roman mausoleum were excavated. On a circular moimd, to the right of the village, remains a Roman arch, a portion of a Roman cas- tellum commanding the Arun and the Rother. Extensive traces of a Roman villa — the foundations 150 feet by 190 feet — may still be examined on the hill, at Borough^ north-east of Puh borough street. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is partly Early English, and occupies a conspicuous position on a hill of sandstone. The clerestory windows are worth examination. The single-pillared font is Norman. There are brasses for Thomas Harling, d. 1423, a canon of Chichester ; Edmxmd Mille, d. 1652, and Matilda his wife, and Edmund Mille, his son. The Mille sepultuary-chapel, from which these were removed, is no longer in existence. It formerly stood in the churchyard. 1^" From this point the tourist may proceed to Billinghurst and into Surrey, or hy rail to Horsham, or even through Chil- tington to West Grinstead ; or descend, by way of Amberley, into Arundel. STOPHAM — PETWORTH. 1 2 1 The Aywh valley will now be left beliiiid, and at one and a quarter miles we shall cross the Eother. Here, at the foot of a tolerably steep ascent, we come upon the pretty yillage of STOP- HAM (population, 161), and its quaint church, a building partly Norman and partly Decorated, and containing a series of brasses to members of the Bartelott family, hereditary stewards to the Earls of ArundeL The stained glass in the chancel window was the work of one Roelandt, a Flemish glass-stainer, and removed from the hall of the old manor-house. This church is worthy of a passing visit. One mile beyond, but on the left of the road, stands the church of TITTLE WORTH (population, 696), 8 miles from Arundel, 3 miles from Pulborough, and 3 miles from Petworth. It is partly Early English and partly Decorated, with a chancel, nave, and north aisle, but is void of interest. The vicarage, valued at £391, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester. In a quiet valley, half a mile distant, lies EGDEAX (popula- tion, 76), with an antique manor-house, formerly the seat of the Dykes, and a small church, which need not delay the tourist. Both Egdean and Petworth are reached from the Petworth station of the Pulborough and Midhurst line. We now ascend the hill to PETWORTH (population, 3439 — Inns : The HaK-moon, the Swan), which looks do^^n, from its breezy elevation, on a small stream of the Rother, winding its silver trail through pleasant meadows. A modest and commo- dious market and court-house of stone, built by the Earl of Egre- mont, occupies a convenient position in the centre of the town. The market is generally well attended, and the fairs, for corn and cattle, draw hither a bustling throng of Sussex farmers. The Wyndham family are the principal landed proprietors. Petworth Church, a Perpendicular building, restored at an expense of .£15,000 by the late Earl of Egremont — a liberal and judicious benefactor of the town and its neighbourhood — boasts a lofty spire, 180 feet in height, the work of the late Sir Charles Parry. The chapel of St. Thomas contains several me- morials of the Percies, the early lords of Petworth — a monu- ment erected by the late Earl, in 1857, when he was eighty- six years old, representing religion leaning on a cross, at whose 122 PETWORTH PARK. base a Bible lies open. The toucliing inscription is, " Mortuis Moritnjus." Carew was the sculptor. Among the notabilities interred at Petworth, are Dr. Price, a former rector, who, as chaplain to Monk, exercised consider- able influence upon the transactions of the Pestoration ; Henry, ninth Earl of Northumberland, who was implicated in the Gun- powder Plot, fined ^20,000, and imprisoned for sixteen years in the Tower, d. 1632 ; Algernon, the tenth Earl, a parliamen- tary leader, d. 1668 ; and Josceline, the last Earl, d. 1670. Josceline de Louvaine, who received the manor of Petworth from Queen Adeliza, and Lucy Percy, Coimtess of Carlisle, the beautiful intriguante of Charles the First's court, whom Bishop Warburton called " the ErjTinys of her time," and whose charms were celebrated by Voiture and Suckling, are also buried here. A fine sculpture by Baily commemorates the late Earl of Egre- mont. The Wyndham family are the patrons of the living — a rectory valued at £856. Petworth Park (Lord Leconfield) is the great art-treasury of Sussex, and must on no account be neglected by the tourist. The glorious scenery of the grounds, and the unequalled interest of its picture-gallery, render it a shrine worthy of any pUgrun's devotion. The manor was granted by Adeliza, the dowager-queen of Henry I., to Josceline de Louvaine, her brother, who married Agnes, heiress of the Northumberland Percys. It remained with the Lords Percy and the Earls of Northimiberland until the death of the last Earl in 1670, when his daughter. Lady Eliza- beth Percy, brought it as her dower to her third husband, Charles Duke of Somerset (her second husband was Thynne of Longleat, murdered in 1682, by Count Konigsmarck). By the marriage of their daughter Catherine with Sir William Wyndham, it passed into the hands of the present representative of the Wyndhams and Percys. The ancient castellated edifice occupied the same site as the present mansion. It was " most famous for a stately stable, the best of any subject's in Christendom, as it afforded standing in state for threescore horses, mth all necessary accommoda- tion." Charles, Duke of Somerset, almost entirely rebuilt it, and the late Earl of Egremont effected considerable alterations. The frontage forms one unbroken range, 332 feet long, aud 62 feet high, which is imiDOsing from its size, but possesses no PETWORTH HOUSE. 123 arcliitectural recommendations. In tlie rear rises the spire of Petrwortli Clmrcli, with an effect whicli is not at all to be admired. The Park, which is about 14 miles in circumference, and open to all comers, is very beautiful. JFrom the Prospect Tower on the higher ground a noble view may be enjoyed. The ancient stag park (between 700 and 800 acres), enclosed and cultivated by the late Earl of Egremont, spreads out its fertile expanse beneath. All around stretch exquisite turfy lawns, and shadowy dells, and bold abrupt knolls, crowned by magnificent oaks, and clumps of beech, and ash, and elm rear their dark green crests at every " place of vantage." A fine sheet of water dimples and sparkles in the hollow before the house, and herds of deer toss up their branching antlers in the cool and leafy coverts. In the distance rises the swelling line of the South Downs, light and shadow chasing each other across their verdurous slopes ; and Chanctonbury Eing, with its diadem of trees, towering sublime above the exalted range. Far away to the north-egist,' the dark leaf-masses and burnished plains of the Weald present a striking contrast, and when reddened in the rare splendours of the sunset, offer a landscape eloquent in beauty. Let us now enter the House, which is thrown open to visitors with the utmost liberality, and glance at the precious works of art for which it is so deservedly famous. They are too numerous to be specified with much detail. We can but select the most noteworthy, and recommend the reader to the temperate criticism of Dr. Waagen in his " Art-Treasures of England," for fuller in- formation. [1. The GRAXD STAIRCASE was painted by Laguerre (twin spirit with " sprawl- ing Verrio "), for Charles " the proud " Duke of Somerset. Here Pandora and Pro- metheus figure in the most marvellous of attitudes, and the Duchess of Somerset rides in a car of triumph, attended by her daughters, while an allegory does justice to her singular fortunes. Her father, Earl Joscelin, died at Turin at the early age of twenty-six, leaving his daughter Elizabeth "heiress of all the immense estates of her family, and sole inheritrix of the hereditar>' glory of the Percys." It became her lot to be three times a wife, and twice a widow before she was sixteen. In her thirteenth year she married Harry Cavendish, Earl of Ogle, who survived the cere- mony a few months only. In 16S1, she married Thomas Thynne, of Longleat, separating from him at the altar, and pursuant to a pre^•ious arrangement, travelling on the Continent for a twelvemonth. Thynne, Monmouth's "wealthy western friend," and the " Issacher" of Dryden's satire, was assassinated by Count Konigs- marck, February 12, 1682. The adventurer, however, did not obtain the wealthy [irize he aimed at. In less than two months after the murder the heiress of the 124 PETWORTH HOUSE. Percys vvas married to Charles Seymour, known as the proud Duke of Somerset, from his extraordinary arrogance. " He seemed little less in his conduct than h vested with regal honours. His servants obeyed by signs. The country roads were cleared that he might pass without obstruction or observation." — (Burke's Romance of tJie Aristocracy). The Duchess died in 1722, aged fifty-five; the Duke in 174S, aged eighty-seven. 2. The SQUARE DINING-ROOM contains— By Titian .-—Portrait of a Noble ; Catherine Coruaro, Queen of Cyprus ; his daughter Lavinia fondling a kitten. By Vandyck .-—Earl of Strafford ; Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northumberland (a master- piece in colouring and expression) ; Prince "William of Orange, father of the " Great Deliverer ; " Algernon, 10th Earl of Northumberland, his wife and child ; Lady Rich ; Anna Cavendish ; Sir Charles Percy ; Mrs. Porter, Henrietta Maria's lady of the bedchamber ; Lord Percy of Alnwick ; Lord Goring and his Son. By Sir Joshua Reynolds : "Woodward the Actor ; Virgin and Child. Holy Family attended by Angels, Andrea de Sarto : Allegory of Events in the Early part of Charles the First's reign, Teniers / Jacob and Laban, with landscape, morning — one of the most important works of the m&ster— Claude Lorraine ; Portrait of himself, Tintoretto : Philip II. of Spain, Sir Antonio More ; Philip le Bel, father of the Emperor Claries "V., a pupil of Van Eyck's ; A portrait, Geovanni Bellini; Queen Catherine Parr, Holbein ; Oliver Cromwell, Walker ; The Young Singer before the aged Connoisseur, Hogarth ; Joscelin, eleventh and last Earl of Northumberland, Six Peter Lely. 3. DUKE OF SOMERSET'S ROOM :— Edward VI., when 10 years old (1547), Holbein ; Archduke Leopold, Teniers, and a priest, Teniers ; Thomson, author of "The Seasons," Hudson; Henry ninth Earl of Northumberland, Vansomer ; Breughel the Painter, Vandyck ; Prince Regent, Varelst. Card Players, Matsys the yoimger ; A sea-shore landscape, Claude; Two land- scapes, Hobbima; Landscape with a Man Angling, Gasper Poussin ; Landscape, Van Goyen. 4. The NORTH GALLERY.— By Turner; Echo and Narcissus ; Jessica ("Mer- chant of Venice ") ; An East Indiaman and a Man-of-War ; Cattle at a Pool, and Men Peeling Osiers ; Evening Landscape, with "Willows Dipping into a Pond ; The Lake and Tower at Tabley, Cheshire ; The Thames near "Windsor, at Evening ; The Thames from Eton College ; The Thames near "Weybridge ; and the Thames and AVindsor Castle. Northcote : — Richard III. receiving the Sons of Edward IV. in the Tower ; Murder of the Two Young Princes ; and Bridget Plantagenet, daughter of Edward IV., at the Nunnery of Dartford. Gainsborough: — Landscape, with Cattle ; landscape with Shepherd and Shepherdess. Romney : — Mrs. Charlotte Smith, the Novelist, as Melancholy, and Lady Emma Hamilton as Mirth ; Shak- speare watched by Tragedy and Comedy (the latter a portrait of Lady Hamilton). Sir Joshua Reynolds : — The "Witch-scene in " Macbeth ; " and Death of Cardinal Beaufort, from Henry VI. ; Admiral Lord Viscount Rodney ; Mrs. Masters ; General Gardiner ; Lady Craven and her Son ; the Earl of Thanet's Children, with a dog. Allston, the American artist: — A figure of Contemplation; and Jacob's Dream. Children of Charles I., Sir Peter Lely ; Venus asleep, and Cupid attending her, Hoppner; A sea-scape, with storm, Sir Augustus Callcott ; Still water, with rock and Castle, Wilson; the Cognoscenti, Patch ; "Windsor Park, Howard, R.A. ; Musi- dora, Opie ; A copy of the Punch-drinkers, of Hogarth ; Rydal "Water, Copley Field- ing; Invention of Music, Barry; Rape of Europa, Hilton; Alexander Pope, Richardson; Sancho and the Duchess, C. R. Leslie; Herodias, with John the Bap- tist's Head, Fusch ; Adam and Eve, expelled from Paradise, are abandoned by St. PETWORTH HOUSE. 126 liEichael, Phillips; A Storm in the Alps, LmitJierbcmrg ; and Edwin, Beattie's Minstrel — " And yet poor Edwin was no \iilgar boy, " — Westall. ScuLPTTTEE : — A Shepherd Boy ; and the Archangel Michael piercing Satan witL his spear (from " Paradise Lost "), by Flaxman. A Bas-relief by Sir Richard Wett- macott, in illustration of the Horatian passage — Non sine dies animosus infans. 5. RED ROOiL— By Vandyck :—Sii Robert Shirley, and his Cireasian bride reresia(see p. 112); Frances Howard, Duchess of Richmond ; and Anne Bull, wife of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex, "the citizen who came to be Lord Treasurer, and was very near coming to be hanged" (Walpoh). By Vansomer: — Ludovic Stuart, Earl of Richmond ; Ralph, Lord Hopeton. Sir Joshua Reynolds : — Prince Boothby ; a Lady in a turban ; a Lady with letter. Van der Meulen : — Attack by Banditti upon a travelltng-party ; Louis XIV. and the Dauphin at Lisle. Ador- ation of the Kings, Allert Durer (ascribed by Waagen, but, perhaps, on insufficient grounds, to Hieronymus Bosch); Scene near Nimeguen, with figures, Albert Cuyp: Battle of the Boyne, Maas; Storm at sea, Vlieger,- Two Prelates kneel- ing, Rubens; A Lady, costumed in black, Rembrandt ; Charles II. passing Whitehall in his carriage, Theodore Stoop; Countess of Egremont, Gainsborough; and Admiral Van Tromp, Van der Heist. 6. ANTE - ROOM. —Vandyck, JDobson; Sir Isaac Newton, Kneller; Colonel Wyndham (Lord Leconfield), his wife and sons. Grant; Marquis of Granby, Rey- nolds; Sir Edward Coke, Jansen; A nobleman at prayers. Van Eyck ; Study for "the preaching of Knox'' in Sir Robert Peel's Collection, Wilkie. 7. CARVED DINING-ROOM.— Remark here the exquisite cartings in wood of dead game, wTeaths of blossoms, and foliage by Grinling Gilbons. They ennch the waUs and cornices of this noble chamber (60 feet long, 24 feet wide, and 20 feet high), with almost priceless omamentation. " Appendant to one is a vase with a bas-relief of the purest taste, and worthy the Grecian age of Cameos. Selden, one of his disciples and assistants — for what one hand could execute such plenty of laborious productions — lost his life in saving this carving when the house was on fire *' — {Horace Wdlpole). The decorations were completed by Jonathan Ritson, a Cumberland ai-tist, who was employed for the purpose by the late Earl of Egre- mont and the present Lord Leconfield. The pictures are inserted in deep, red-coloured panels, which seem to require some reUef. Observe the following— By Turner: — Petworth Park, a sunset land scape of extraordinary beauty ; The Lake in the Park ; a sea-view of Brighton Chichester Canal, at sunset. By CZi ni.-— Portraits of Ritson, and Grinling Gibbons iTTieZZer.— The proud Duke of Somerset, and thrice-married heiress of the Percys By Jansen .-—Lord and Lady Seymour of Trowbridge. By Holbein .-—Henry VIII (painted about 1541). 8. The LIBRARY.— Newmarket Heath, in 1724, introducing the Duke of Somer- set, who is addressing the Duke of Cumberland, Wootton; Visit of the Allied Sove reigns to Petworth in 1814, Phillips; Charles III. Emperor of Germany, who visited the house in 1703, and Ferdinand d'Adda, Papal Nuncio to James II., both by Kneller; Giving Bread to the Hungry, a sketch, David Tenters ; The Primitive Christians engaged in. teaching, Pasqualino; and Virgin, Infant Jesus, and Joseph, Correggio. 9. The WHITE and GOLD ROOM.— By Vandyck :—L&(!ij Dorothy Sidney, Countess of Sunderland, "Wallis's " Saccharissa ;" Lady Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle, " undoubtedly the most enchanting woman at the Court of Charles I. " — (Jessey—" flattered in French by Voiture, and in her native tongue by almost all tha 126 PETWORTH HOUSE. contemporary wits and poets, and more especially by Waller in verse, and in prose by that singular and mysterious person Sir Toby Matthew"— <3fiss Aikin); Lady Dorothy Percy, Countess of Leicester, sister of the aforesaid beauty, and mother oi Algernon Sidney ; Lady Elizabeth Cecil, Countess of Devonshire ; and Lady Anne Carr, Countess of Bedford, daughter of Carr, Earl of Somerset, James the First's in- famous minion. By C. R. Leslie:*— L&dy Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle, brings his pardon to her father, the 9th Earl of Northumberland, imprisoned in the Tower for his share in the (iunpowder Plot. Raleigh, and those famous mathematicians, Harriot, Hughes, and Warner, " the Earl of Northumberland's Three Magi," are also Introduced. 10. The BEAUTY ROOM contains the following panelled portraits :— By Dahl :— The Countess of Portland ; Duchess of Ormond ; Duchess of Devonshire ; Countess of Carlisle ; Lady Howe ; Countess of Pembroke ; Lady Longueville. The portraits of Louis XIV. in this chamber are by Van der Meulen. 11. The MARBLE HALL : — Portraits of unknown personages, Holbein ; Peg Woffington, Hogarth: Macpherson (" Ossian), Lord North, and Lady Thomond, Reynolds; The Ferry-boat, with sailors, and figures on the shore, Cuyp; A Youth, Bronzino: Leo X., Titian; His owti portrait, Vandyck; Cervantes, Velasquez; Marshal Turenne, Frank Hals ; Guidobaldi, Duke d' Urbino, Rafaelle ; and Rem- brandt and his wife, Rembrandt.] Among tlie royal visitors to Petworth have been Edward VI. in 1551, the emperor Charles VI. in 1703, Prince George of Denmark ; and the Prince Eegent, Alexander of Russia, the King of Prussia, the Prince of Wirtemburg, and the Grand Duchess of Oldenburg, in 1814. The Chapel attached to the ancient mansion is in excellent preservation. Both walls and windows are radiant with the em- blazoned escutcheons of the lords of Petworth. The Petworth marble, dark-coloured and interlaced with purple veins, resembles that which is found in the quarries of Bethersden in Kent. * The late Lord Egmont was a munificent patron of Leslie's, and Leslie spent many of his happiest houjs and painted some of his best pictures at Petworth. Those broad Venetian mirrors, tapestried chairs, China jars and monsters, brocade and damask hangings, and recherch6 vases which he has introduced upon his canvas with an accuracy so minute, he saw at Petworth. You may see there the screen and chairs which he has painted in the " Rape of the Lock ; " the old globe introduced in the " Lady Carlisle ;" the carved min-or and jewelled casket of the Duchess's toilet-table ; Sophia Western's china jars Mid console ; the window, with its look-out on the swelling slopes of the park, where sweet Lady Jane Grey sits absorbed in Plato, while the hounds and horns are making merry music in the sun- shine without. Poor Haydon was another of the Petworth artists, and waimly appreciated the munificence of the noble owner. " The very flies," he writes, " seem to know there is room for their existence — that the windows are theirs. Dogs, horses, cows, deer, and pigs ; peasantry and servants, guests and family, children and parents, all share alike his bounty, and opulence, and luxuries." For interest- ing details relative to Petworth and Lord Egremont, see the " Autobiographica] Rf>3cllectiou8 of Leslie," edited by Mr. Tom Taylor. LANCING WORTHING. 127 fp North of Petworth, and aloiit one mile west of the Guildford road, lies LURGASHALL (population, 744), with an uninteresting church dating from about 1730. "On the south side of the nave is a kind of cloister, of timber frame, furnished with benches for the accommodation of the parishioners at Sunday dinner^ Lord Leconfield is the patron of the rectory, which is valued at £235 per annum. NORTH CHAPEL (population, 864), is situated on the Guildford road, 5 miles north ofPetworth. The Church is dedi- cated to St. Michael, and the rectory, valued at £363, is in Lord Leconfield's patronage. Two miles north of this quiet hamlet we cross the boundaries of Surrey. WORTHING. The rail, after passing through Shoreham, crosses the Adur, and, follo-^ing pretty nearly the coast line, soon reaches LANCING (population, 1069), which derives its name from Wlencing, son of King ^lla, and skirts an ample stretch of pleasant turf, termi- nating in a sldngle-bank, some few feet above the sea-level. The Inn here is The Farmers'. The lodgings of the place are moder- ately dear, the air is wholesome, the bathing is good, and society is anything but — lively. Philanthropic monarchists will remember that here Queen Caroline embarked in 1822 ; the lover of poetry, that Coleridge favoured its seclusion and marine scenery. On the hill above the village, and conspicuous from the railway station, stands St. Nicholas' College. It was estab- lished on the principles of the Church of England, and is in connection with the commercial school at Hurstpierpoint. At both schools there is accommodation provided in the head masters' houses, for which higher fees are exacted. About 900 boys are educated annually in the two schools. Lancing Church is partly Norman and partly Decorated. Two and a half miles farther and we arrive at WORTHING, a popular watering-place (population, 10,976 — Hotels: Marine, Royal Sea-House, Westworthing, Steyne), 52 miles south of London From a poor fishing village it rose into 128 WORTHING. Budden importance when George IV/s patronage of Brighton attracted the attention of the fashionable world to the pleasures of sea-bathing and the beauties of the south coast. For their convenience an agreeable sea-walk or esplanade has been con- structed three quarters of a mile in length, and a pier on the "non-resistance" principle. The sands extend their firm and pleasant surface for quite ten miles. The temperature is well adapted to invalids, the sea-views are beautiful, and the town is, in all respects, identical with other popular sea-side resorts. There are two rinks, and one excellent swimming-bath. There are a Chapel of Ease, built in 1812, and Christ Church, in 1843, besides two other churches more recently erected. Queen Adelaide resided here in 1850. The Downs raise their green crests in the rear of the town, at a distance from the sea of upwards of a mile. EXCURSIONS FROM WORTHING. [Chantonbury Ring, with fine view ; Bramber, 5 m. ; Broadwater, J m. ; Ciss- bury Hill, 2^ m. ; Clapham, 5 m. ; Findon, 4| m. ; Higbdown Hill, 4 m. ; Michel- grove, 6 m. ; Muntham, 7 m. ; Oflington, 2 m. ; Salviagton, 1^ m. ; Sompting, 2^ m. ; Steyning, 6 m. ; Warminghurst, 8 m. ; West Tarring, 1 m.] DESCRIPTIVE NOTES.— BROADWATER (population, 10,000, including Worth- ing), is situated in a country of " thick hedgerows and hedgerow elms." The parish, formerly included in the possessions of the knightly family of Camoys, could number but 300 inhabitants in 1724. In 1801 it boasted of 1018, in 1831 of 4576. The Church, Transitional Norman, should certainly be visited. It is cruciform in plan, with a low square central tower. Remark the groined roof of the chancel, and the rich four-lighted east window. The cross (in flutes), on the north wall. The palm leaves on the capitals of the columns indicate that the founder was a ci-usader. Early English arches separate the nave from the aisles. The tower arch is enriched with a zig-zag moulding. Observe the canopied monument, in Caen stone, to Thomas Lord Delawarr, d. 1526 ; a rich memorial, in the same style, foi Thomas, 3d Lord Delawarr, d. 1554 ; and a brass to John Mapleton, rector, chan- cellor to Catharine, wife of Henry V., died 1432. The Rev. E. K. Elliot is patron of the rectorj', which is valued at £600 per annum. CissBURY Hill (i. e., Cissa's bjTig — from Cissa, one of the sons of .^Ua, king of the South Saxons) rears its stately head above the plains at about 2^ miles north of Worthing, from which point it is easily reached. A single Fosse, from 8 to 12 feet in depth, and a broad and lofty Vallum, enclose an oval camp, about 60 acref in extent. Roman coins and pottery have been discovered here, and traces of the foundation of a jjnctorium ; so that it is probable the Roman legionaries kept •' watch and ward" upon tliis solitary height long before .3illa and his sea rovere hunted the Britons out of their woodland Aillages. Some circular pits on the west side appear to be of British origin, and resemble those at Rowborough in the Isle of Wight. Celt, Roman, and Saxon, may therefore in turn have had their stronghold hero. Southey, in Febniary 1837, ascended this noble hill, and was deU^hted witl CLAPHAil FINDOX. 129 the landscape which it commands — a landscape embracing the whole coast from Beachy Head to the Selsea BilL " Worthing," he says, " appeared like a ruined city, such as Baalbec or Palmyra, in the distance, on the edge of what we knew to be sea, but what as well might have been a desert, for it was so variegated with streaks of sunshine and of shade, that no one ignorant of the place could have deter- mined whether it was sea or sky that lay before us." CLAPHAM (population, 252), is very picturesquely situated in the heart of green sloping downs and richly wooded dells. The village, one long irregular street, winds up a gentle ascent, at about 6 miles from "Worthing. The Church consists of a chancel, nave, north and south aisles, and low tower surmounted by a shingled spire. It is principally Transition Norman. Among the memorials observe — a monument of Caen stone, with efiBgies, for Sir William SMlUy, Justice of the Com- mon Pleas, and his wife ^Zice,- a brass for John Shelley, temp, fifteenth century; and figures of an armed knight and his wife. Sir John Shelley, d. 1550, and his wife Alice. FENDON (population, 559), as its name indicates, is situated on the chalk-hills, on the road from "Worthing to Horsham. The beautiful seat of iIu>"rHAii (Mar- chioness of Bath), with its wooded slopes, is but a short distance north of the church ; and FixDON Place Q,L "W. Richardson, Esq.), is close at hand. The Early English Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and consists of a chancel, nave, north aisle, and manorial chapeL A shingled spire surmounts its low, square, western tower. The patronage of the vicarage is vested in Magdalene College, Oxon. Its yearly value is computed at £500. HiGHDOwx Hill rises like a tower out of the green Clapham woods, and looks out upon pleasant Clapham Common, " On crossing the hUl," says Pennant, " we saw a curious monument, protected by rails, with a funereal yew at each comer, and a shrubbery adjacent, built by a miller still hAing, for his place of interment ; the monument is strewed with many a pious text out of the burial-service, and some poetical inscriptions — ^the effusions of his own muse. He is said to have his cofSn ready ; it runs on castors, and is wheeled every night under hLs bed. I was told that he is a stout, active, cheerful man ; and, besides his proper trade, carries on a very considerable one iu smuggled goods." This eccentric miller was named John Olliver, and died in 1793. His coffin, at his funeral, was borne round the meadow by persons dressed in white, and was preceded and followed by some yoxing women attired in white muslin. A funeral sermon was read over his grave by one of these white-stoled virgins. The tomb, a flat stone slab supported by some brick work, stands almost in the centre of an irregular earthwork, which encloses an area of 300 feet by 180. The view from this point is good, but not extensive. The hill is situated in the maritime parish of FERRIXG (population, 332),— i. e., the horse-pastures. The manor-house contains some remains of an ancient building where St. Richard of Chichester fed 3000 persons with bread only sufficient for 90— aot so difficult a miracle as his monkish biographers would have us believe ! MiCHELGROVE (Duke of Norfolk) was the seat of an ancient famUy of the same name, and afterwards of the Shelleys. The house was puEed down by the Duke of Norfolk about thirty years ago, but this spot is still to be visited for the sake of its exquisite bits of paint-like scenery. Hill and vale here succeed each other in agree- able alternation. Offington— i. e., a settlement of the Offingas— is a manor included in the parish of Broadwater. The ancient seat of the Delawarrs is now the residence of Thos. I 1 30 WORTHING. Gaisford, Esq. It lies about half a mile west of Broadwater, in a small park which has long been colonised by " a family " of rooks. SOMPTING (population, 6S2)— 1 «., a settlement of the Somptingas— has an in- teresting church, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hiU, embosomed amid venerable ehns. A portion of the manor formerly belonged to the Norman Peverels, and another to the Abbey of Fdcamp ; hence the names, retained to the present day, of Sompting Peverel and Sompting Abbots. The church is cruciform in plan, with a nave, chancel, and transept, and a western tower terminating in a pointed gable, out of which rises a shingled spire. The tower and east end of the chancel are said to be Saxon ; the remainder of the edifice seems Transition Norman, unless we ascribe a pure Norman origin to the chancel. Perpendicular windows have replaced the original circular-headed lights. Early English arches, springing from circular pillais, divide the north transept into two aisles. Both north and south transepts open into the nave with lofty circular arches. Eemark the triangular piscina on the south side of the chancel, — a Perpendicular altar-tomb without name or date,— and the double aumbry over the altar. A rude sculpture (Early English) of a bishop in the act of benediction is placed in the south transept, and in the north, a similar figure of the Saviour with an open book, surrounded by the Evangelist symbols. The lower outer wall of the tower is evidently Saxon. Remark its courses and bands of stone. The upper portion has Norman enrichments. The church may therefore be regarded as a Norman enlargement of a small building erected towards the close of Edward the Confessor's reign. Sompting village lies about 2 miles to the north-east of Worthing, and Warming- hurst about 9 miles north-west. WARMINGHURST (population, 116), nestles among the trees, 1 mile north of Ashington, and 1 J mile west of the Worthing and Horsham road. A long but plea- sant day's excursion may be made from Worthing to this pretty \iUage, by way of Sompting, Findon, and Washington ; returning through Sullington, across the downs to Clapham, and home by way of Durrington (where some remains of an ancient chapel may be noticed), Salvington, and West Taning. The view from the hill on which Wanninghurst is perched embraces a consider- able portion of the east of Sussex. From the site of the ancient manor-house the prospect eastward extends to the windmill at Cross-in-hand, and the monument to the memory of " the hero of Gibraltar," at Heathfield. The church is Early English, with a large pointed east window, temp. Edward III. A brass, with figures of a man and woman, their seven sons and three daughters, commemorates Edward Shelley, d. 1554, Master of the Household to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Queen Mary, and his wife Joan, d. 1553 The Duke of Norfolk is lord of the manor, and patron of the perpetual curacy.] "We resume our westward route. On our riglit lies WEST TABUING (population, 573) — a settlement of the Terringas — at about 1 ^ mile north-west of Worthing. The tourist will not fail to notice the abundant fig-orchards for which tliis parish is re- markable. It was planted in 1745 from some old stocks in the parent garden, which are traditionally reputed to have been brought from Italy by Thomas h Becket. The compiler of the Acta Sanctorum, however, ascribes them to the horticultural tastes WEST TARRING GORING. 131 of St. Eichard of Chichester (Bishop Richard de la Wych). There are now about 120 trees, which annually produce upwards of 2000 dozen.* Tarring was given by King Athelstane to the see of Canter- bury, and the Archbishops long had a palace here, of which some portions are embodied in the National School-House. The south part is Early English, but has undergone considerable modifica- tion. The tracery of the windows is Perpendicular, and was inserted long after the wdndows were completed. The hall, on the west side of the building, is Edwardian. "A range of buildings adjoining the premises of the rector, and still called the Parsonage Row, affords good specimens of domestic architecture in the reign of Henry VI." The vicarage is inhabited by the vicar and rector, the Rev. J. "W. "Warter, B.D., son-in-law of the poet Southey, who visited Tarring in 1837. The Early English Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has a lofty shingled spire, a chancel with a fine five-light window, a nave with clerestory windows, and north and south aisles. The tower- window was placed by Mrs. "Warter, the eldest daughter of Southey, as a memorial of the poet. The vicarage, valued at X562, is in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Crossing the churchyard, and following the meadow-path for about half a mile, the tourist will reach Salvingtox, a small ham- let in the manor of Tarring. A small house called Lacies, at the entrance to the village, was the birth-place of John Selden, the illustrious author of "De Jure Maritima," History of Tythes," and "Titles of Honour" (bom December 16, 1584, died No- vember 30, 1654). His father was, it is said, an itinerant musician, and Selden received his early education at the Free School of Chichester. When only ten years old he carved on the lintel of the cottage-door a Latin distich, singularly illustrative of his character, — " Gratus, honeste, mihi, non claudar, inito, sedebis, Fur abeas, non sum facta soluta tibi." From Tarring we may easily regain the high road at GORING (population, 569), a distance of 1^ mile. There is here a station on the Brighton and Portsmouth Railway, and we may therefore * Admission may be gained to the Fig Gardens, 2d. each person. The rare and beautiful golden oriole bird is kno'vvn to breed here. 132 ANGMERINO. abandon pedestrianism. and once more call to our aid the loco- motive. To the north rises Castle Goring (Sir G. T. Petchell Bart.), out of an environment of trees. The mansion is imposing in ap- pearance, but in its combination of Gothic and Grecian is some- what bizarre. Goring Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is partly Norman, partly Early English. The chancel, however, dates from the fourteenth century. An inlaid brass commemorates John Cooke, " and Emma Lys, his wife." The vicarage, valued at £320, is in the patronage of David Lyon, Esq. "We next arrive (2^ miles) at ANG^MERING (population, 1012), whence we may proceed north to Angmering Park (Duke of Norfolk), a richly wooded demesne of great beauty. A colony of herons migrated here from Penshurst, when some venerable trees were felled in that extensive chase, and, on some trees being again cut do-\vn at Angmering, again departed, and settled them- selves at Parham, where they still abide. New Place was the seat of the Palmers, of whom Sir Edward Palmer married Alice Clement, of the Moat, at Ightham, and by her had three sons, born on three Sundays successively, — Wliit- sunday. Trinity, and the first Sunday after Trinity, — who we.'-e all three knighted for their valour by Henry VIIL There were churches both at East and West Angmering, but of the former there are no remains. The latter, dedicated to St. Peter, dates from the fifteenth century. The escocheon of the nimnery of Sion is carved over the entrance-door, with the date — An7io Bom. Milesimo Quinijesimo Septimo — from which it would appear that the tower was built in that year, and at the expense of the nuns of Sion. Angmering station, on the South Coast line, is about J of a mile from the village. PATCHING (population, 271) is situated on the left of a lane -^hich diverges from the Arundel road, about 2 miles from the Angmering station. Patching Place (Col. Payne) is, indeed, visible from the line. The land here is divided between corn- fields and cattle-pastures ; and Patching butter has more than a local reputation. The angler may try his sldll with, possibly, satisfactory results in Patching Pond, a large piece of water, stored with trout, eels, pike, tench, and carp ; the architectural POLING — LEOMINSTER. 133 student may occupy himself in studying tlie details of tlie Early English Church. In the beech-woods here, truffles are very abundant. At 2 J from Angmering, and 18 miles from Brighton, we reach Ford Junction, the station for Arundel and Little- HAMPTON — the former lying about 2 miles north, the latter on the coast, 3 miles south. But we must first take note of Poling and Leominster, both of which lie to the right of the line, between Goring and Arundel. Poling has a large decoy for wild fowl, supplied by a tributary of the Arun ; a modern dwelling-house transformed out of the chapel, formerly attached to a Commandery of the Knights Hospitallers ; and a fifteenth century Church, containing some fragments of stained glass, and a brass for Walter Davys, vicar. Leominster contains a picturesque Church, partly Transition- bTorman in its style, and partly Early English, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. The font, standing on five pillars, is Norman. ARUNDEL. [Hotels : The Norfolk Arms. 59 m. from London "by rail ; 61 m. by road ; 10 m. by road, and 11 m. by rail, from Cliicliester ; 19 m. from Brighton, by road ; 8 m. from Bognor ; 11 m. from Petworth. Population, 2748.] Descending a steep hill, says Pennant, we crossed a nan-ow tract of rich meadows ; opposite to us was a range of lofty banks clothed with wood, diversified every now and then with a contrast of chalk which bursts out in the face of the cliffs. Arundel Castle filled one space, and impended nobly over the river Arun and the subjacent meads. We crossed the bridge, and immedi- ately entered the town of Arundel, which consists chiefly of one handsome broad street running straight up the steep slope of the hill, with the castle on the summit on one side, and the church on the other. A brief but graphic description of the position of the most picturesque town in southern England, but since Pennant's time an uninteresting suburb has sprung up on the left bank of the river. Crossing the neat stone bridge of three arches which here spans the Arun, we breast a steep and abrupt hill, crowned by the towers of Arundel Castle, winding through a street which, happily, still rejoices in many an old gable-fronted, half- timber 134 ARUNDEL. house. Here, at the Norfolk Arms, we may obtain excellent ac- commodation while we glance at the annals of the ancient town. The origin of the name has not been settled, and it is a question whether it arose from arundo, a reed (the neighbouring marshes abounding in reedy growth) from the river Arun, from hirondelle^ a swallow, the device of the corporation seal, or from Hirondelle, the famous horse of the notable giant Bevis, the mythic warder of the Castle, whose bones, with those of his steed's, were interred in the hollow of Pughdean, The reader may choose for himself. Arundel, as an old prescriptive borough, returned members to Parliament from the reign of Edward the First, but it has been wholly disfranchised by the Reform Acts of 1832 and 1868. It was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, and is duly governed by a mayor and six aldermen. Its port has been held in some estimation from a period anterior to the Conquest, but its trade now, in timber, coal, and corn, is quite inconsiderable. During the Civil "Wars it suffered severely from the outrages of Waller's soldiers, when the Roundhead leader besieged the castle (December 1643), and his artillery terribly shattered the beautiful Church. A canal from the river affords a water com- munication with the inland agricultural districts, and extends to the Wey, thus bringing Guildford, Wey bridge, and the Thames into correspondence. To many the most agreeable association of Arundel will be with the famous Arundel mullets which are found in the river, and prove welcome to the epicure. Arundel Castle (" Castrum de Hirundel "), the principal seat of the Duke of Norfolk (who inherits from it his second title of Earl of Arundel), is interesting alike in a historical and archi- tectural point of view. It occupies a commanding position on a richly wooded height, overlooking the town of Arundel and the vale of the Arun. Being precipitous on one side, and protected by a deep fosse on the other, the castle was impregnable in olden times. The area of the walls extends to about 950 by 250 feet, or nearly five and a half acres. The walls are 30 feet high in the oldest part, and from 6 to 12 feet thick. The most interest- ing, as well as the most ancient part of the castle is the Norman Keep, crowning a mound upwards of 100 feet in height. This is the original and oldest part of the building, which was be- sieged by King Stephen (1139). As an "ivy-mantled tower," says Dr. Beattie in his Castles and Abbeys of England, *' this keep is without a rival in all we can recollect of foreign or domestic ARUNDEL. 135 castles." It is approached by a gateway, flanked by two square towers of four storeys, in the lowest of which lie the dungeons. In the north wall of the archway is the old sallyport, which opens into the ditch. A portion of the well-tower still remains, and the well itself (always an object of great concern to a garrison) is said to have been 300 feet deep. Near this are the remains of an ancient Oratory, from the ruined window of which there is a romantic view. The keep is now abandoned to the owls and bats, and of the former Arundel was long famous for its peculiar homed breed. The modem castle is a reconstruction on a grand scale of the ancient pile, made at the end of the last century by Duke Thomas. The work was continued by his successor for a period of thirty years, during which time he is said to have expended a sum of £600,000 on the execution of his plan, which was still left incomplete at the time of his death in 1805. The noble proprietor, who was an amateur in architecture, as well as a great patron of art, superintended the designs himself, and exercised a careful concern, for every relic of antiquity found among the ruins. The grand entrance is formed by a lofty arched gateway flanked by two hexagonal towers. This gives admission to the court-yard, on entering which the eye is first attracted by a large bas-relief representing Alfred the Great instituting the trial by jury. On the right stands a modern chapel of Florid Gothic. Adjoining the chapel is the Baron's Hall, a banquet-room much admired. Tliis room is the most interesting in the castle, and was designed to commemorate the triumph of the barons over King John in the signing of the Magna Charta, the story of which is effectively illustrated in its numerous splendid painted glass windows. Its architecture, like that of the chapel, is in the style of the 14th century. The hall is 115 feet in length, by 35 in breadth, and lofty in proportion. The roof is of Spanish chestnut, elaborately carved. The south part of the quadrangle is an entire renewal of this part of the ancient building, and exhibits the insignia of the Howards in union with those of theii predecessors. It has a grand entrance in the Norman style, elaborately carved, surmounted by colossal emblematical statues of Hospitality and Liberty. The north-east wing contains the Library (commenced in 1801), an apartment of great magnifi- cence, measuring 120 feet in length, by 24 in width. The 136 ARUNDEL. Great Drawing-room is a fine apartment, commanding an extensive prospect of the vale of the Arun, and containing the family portraits. The Dining-room embraces what was anciently the family chapel, and is spacious and lofty. Its central large window of stained glass represents the meeting of Solomon with the Queen of Sheba. In point of antiquity the property of Arundel goes back to a very early date. It is mentioned in the will of Alfred the Great, and in Domesday Book. It was bestowed on Roger de Mont- gomery, commander of the Breton soldiers at Hastings, and held by him and his two sons till 1118, when it was granted to William de Albini, Earl of Sussex and Arundel, who married Queen Adeliza, widow of Henry I. In mentioning the great families which have succeeded each other in the possession of Arundel, it is needless to say that the jDersonal history of the Fitz-Alans and Howards is an integral portion of the history of England. "William Rufus occupied the castle in 1097 on his return from Normandy. It was besieged by Henry I. in 1102, and surrendered to him; and again by King Stephen in 1139, because the Empress Matilda had been granted refuge there by Queen Adeliza. Edward I. came here as a guest, and dated a Patent from the castle September 9, 1302. In 1397 a confederacy against Richard II. was formed within its walls. In 1247 the castle and earldom passed to John Fitz-Alan, who married Isabel, sister and co-heiress of Hugh, the last earl. It remained in the family of the Fitz-Alans till 1580, when Henry, the last earl of that line, left an only daughter, Mary, and this lady, by marrying Thomas Howard, fourth Duke of Norfolk, brought Arundel and its honours to the great family which now holds them. When Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel, was attainted in 1585, commissioners were appointed to make a return of the castle and its furniture to the Exchequer ; and the inventory of the furniture of twenty-one rooms in it is preserved among the Burleigh MSS. in the British Museum. It is a very curious document, as showing the state and manner of living of a great nobleman in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Few, if any families, have more greatly distinguished them- selves in the service of their country than this ; and few have suffered more severely, whether by confiscation of property or loss ST. KECHOLAS* CHURCH. 137 of life. Of the latter class -were Henry, the last earl of the Fitz-Alan line, who espoused the cause of Queen Mary of Eng- land in opposition to that of Lady Jane Grey, and was im- prisoned in the Tower by order of Queen Elizabeth. The keep of the castle, the dairy, and park are thrown open to the public on Mondays and Fridays. The cicerone to the keep will tell the visitor that the subterranean passage in the centre of the building once led to Amberley Castle, 5 miles distant. The new and handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral (not yet completed) was built by the present Duke at a cost of £100,000, and was opened for worship in 1873. Next in interest to the castle is St. Nicholas' Church, a Perpendicular building, partly of flint and stone, which is still beautiful, despite of Eoundhead iconoclasts and eighteenth century churchwardens. Waller's soldiers were quartered here in 1643, and found ample scope for the exercise of their religious zeal. In 1782 the carved roof was taken down and destroyed. Roger de Montgomery established here in 1094 a Benedictine Priory, which he bestowed upon the Abbey of Seez, in Normandy. In 1380, this Priory was converted, by Richard Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, into a College, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, for a master and twelve secular canons. He then began building the present Church, with the view of connecting it with his new foundation. The College Chapel (82 feet by 28 feet) still exists, at the east end, beyond the chancel. It is large and lofty, and contains five of the Arundel tombs. The Church is cruci- form, ^4th nave, and aisles, transept, and low square tower, sur- mounted by a leaden spire. The nave measures 82| feet by 50| feet, and is ceiled with Irish oak ; two frescoes on the north wall represent the Seven Deadly Sins and Seven Works of Mercy. The clerestory windows enclose quatrefoils. The vicarial pew seems to have been the ancient stone pillar. In the south aisle stands the original high altar, the only one in England said to have escaped destruction at the Reformation. The College Chapel opens through three Pointed arches into the Lady Chapel, 54 by 20 feet, containing brasses of a knight and spouse, 1418 ; and " Sir" Ewan Ertham, first master of the CoUege, d. 1432. The Arundel tombs are as follow : — 1. Thomas, loth Earl of Arundel, Lord Treasurer, and his wife Beatrice^ daughter of John, King of Portugal. The foiTuer, "a beardless figure in white marble, recumbent, in rohes and coronet, with a horse at his feet ; " 138 ARUNDEL LITTLEHAMPTON. the latter, " dressed ia her robes, lies on an altar-tomb, surrounded by- twenty monkish figures, under a rich canopy of Gothic work." Died, 1215. 2. John, 16th Earl, who defended Southampton against the French, and d. 1422 ; and Eleanor, daughter of Sir John Berkeley. The brasses have been despoiled. This tomb is in the centre of the Lady Chapel. 3. John, 17th Earl (died 1434), in plate armour, with a close surcoat and collar of SS. ''Beneath, in the hollow of the tomb, he again appears in hie shroud, emaciated by death, well cut in white marble. " — {Pennant). 4. William, 18th Earl, d. 1488, and his Countess Joan. Recumbent effigies upon the altar-tombs of Thomas, 20th Earl, d, 1524, and William, 21st Earl, d. 1544. Their own tomb, without figures, stands under a exquisitely light canopy, supported by four richly carved pillars. The lady Joan with the peculiar oblong head-dress, was the sister of Richard Neville, the king-making Earl of Warwick. 5. Thomas, 20th Earl, d. 1524. On the north side of the altar, and bearing by a curious misappropriation, the efiigy of Earl William. He was the patron of Caxton the printer. In the same tomb lies the dust of William, 21st Earl, d. 1544. 6. Henry, 22d Earl, d. 1579, last of the Fitz-Alans, commemorated by a tablet over the tomb last described. He was imprisoned in the Tower by Elizabeth for his share in his brother-in-law — the Duke of Norfolk's — conspiracy in favour of Queen Mary of England. He introduced the use of coaches into England. There are no monuments to the Howards, though many of them are here interred, and among them Thomas, 24th Earl of Arundel, d. 1646, the collector of the Arundelian marbles and the friend of John Evelyn. Some remains of the collegiate buildings, especially the entrance gateway, adjoin the churchyard. The master's house occupied the south-east angle ; the refectory stood on the east ; the cells of the brethren ranged along the south and west sides of the quadrangle. This college possessed the privilege of sanctuary. A Hospice, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and named the Maison Dieu, was founded, about 1380, by Earl Robert. It pro- vided for 20 poor men. It formed a small quadrangle, with chapel and refectory, and was destroyed by Waller's soldiers in 1643. The present bridge was built out of the ruins in 1742. The Town Hall, an ambitious castellated building, was erected by Bernard, Duke of Norfolk, about 1832, at a cost of ^10,000. The principal room is 50 feet by 30, and 23 high. LiTTLEHAMPTON, 5 miles south of Arundel, forms one long street on the Arun. It is reached in a few minutes by a short branch line from Ford Junction on the L. B. and S.-C. Railway. The mouth of the river forms a harbour from which there is steam communication with France. Here the Empress Matilda landed in 1139. The piers are of modern construction, a canal, ABUNDEL TO RUDGWICK. 139 formed 1820-3, extends between Littlehampton, Arundel, and Portsmouth, and costs £160,000. A floating-bridge, as at Portsmouth, extends from shore to shore (370 feet). The Church, 100 feet by 50, was erected in 1826 at a cost of £3000. It embodies some remains of the ancient building. On the coast, about 1 mile east of Littlehampton, stands KusTiNGTON with a Church partly Transition-Norman. The chancel and aisle are of later date. Preston is a small village, haLf-a-mile from the shore, where a Church (at some distance) dates from the fifteenth century. The north door is Norman. Climping is situated on the western bank of the Arun in a sequestered position. The Church is an Early English cruciform building of singular design, and supposed to have been founded by John de Clymping, bishop of Chichester, in 1253. Arundel to Rudgwick. This road conducts through the glades of Arundel Park, studded with majestic trees, shady avenues, and dells, dotted with herds of deer. To the east of the park, and beyond the Arun, lies Burpham, where there is a church of some antiquity. Near the churchyard there is a considerable entrenchment of imcertain origin. The soil here is chiefly chalk, and layers are frequently found -composed of an aggregate of "detached ossiculae of star- fishes." By following the course of the river we come to South Stoke, with our Early Norman church, and one mile farther to North Stoke — both of them seated in a neighbourhood which abounds with Celtic relics. At North Stoke, in 1834, a British canoe was dug up on the river-bank. About 1 mile from the north boundary of the park the road passes to the left of Houghton. Chapel containing a brass, inserted in a slab of Petworth marble, for Thomas Glieyne, d. 1486. About 5 J m. from Arundel lies the picturesque old village of Amberley, containing an ancient Church, half Norman, haK Early Eng., with traces of mediaeval frescoes. Its red consecration crosses, pulpit hour-glass, and brass foi John Wanlettjd. 14:24, are of interest. There are still some remains of the palace of the Bishops of Chi- chester, and the Castle, built by Bishop Rede, temp. Richard II. (1369-79). They occupy a low rock of sandstone, over- 140 ARUNDEL TO RUDGTVICK. looking the Wild Brook, and its fringe of cranberry- bushes. The original plan was nearly that of a parallelogram. At each comei a square tower rises above the walls, which were 40 feet high ; the massive and imposing gateway was flanked by two round towers (compare that of Lewes Castle) ; and the south side was defended by a fosse. The present dwelling-house in the Green Court was built by Bishop Sherbourne, in 1508. The best view is obtained from the bridge which spans the fosse. Over these ruins, the handiwork of Waller's Eoimdhead troopers in 1643, the eternal ivy has thrown its rank luxuriance and unwholesome beauty. The patron of the vicarage of Amberley is the Bishop of Chichester. Beyond the sixth milestone, our road diverges to the right, and passes through COLDWALTFAM (population, 120), i. e.,the village in the bleak woodland — and HAEDHAM (population, 98), to PuLBOROUGH. At Habdham there is a small Early English church, and the river Arun flows through a tunnel, 400 yards long, bored in the hill of sandstone on which the village is situated. We cross the downs at Pulborough (see p. 120), and proceed over North Heath, and through a wild romantic countryside, to BILLINGHURST (population, 1458), one of the settlements of the Saxon tribe of the Belingas, situated on the main road in a richly-wooded and well-watered district. It is 1 4 miles N J], by N. of ArundeL The Roman Stane Street, from Piegnum (Clii- chester) to London, crossed this parish, and terminated at Billingsgate. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, has a spire which rises to the height of 120 feet, a landmark for the peasants in the depths of the surrounding Weald. It contains a brass for Thomas Bartlett, d. 1489, and Elizabeth his wife. Sir C. Goring is the patron of the vicarage, Five miles further, and our road joins the highway which connects the Dorking and Guildford roads. Turning to the right, we may reach Pvusper, Ifield, and Crawley ; turning to the left, we shall arrive at PtUDGWICK (population, 1031). The village is seated on a hill, commanding some fair prospects of Sussex and Surrey. The Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, consists of FORD BOGXOR. 141 a chancel, nave, north, aisle, and western tower. There are three stone sedilia, imder an arched canopy, in the chancel. Patron of the vicarage. Bishop of Chichester. Having conducted the tourist to the borders of Surrey, we again return to our Chichester route. IVIAIN EOUTE EESUMED— ARUNDEL to CHICHESTER. The Ford Station (2 J nules) affords the advantages of railway conmmuication to the villages of FORD (population, 106), — a ferry across the Anm, and TORTINGTON (population, 104), where a house of Black Canons was founded by Hawse de Corbet, temp. Richard I. The Church was probably built about the same time. Its font is enriched with Lombardic ornaments, and the chancel- arch with a moulding of grotesque heads of birds and beasts. YAPTON (population, 609) is situated on the turnpike-road. Its Church, except the chancel, is Early English. The font is very curious, and either Saxon or Early Norman. It is composed of black granite ; is large, circular, and rests on a square base. A cross patie fitchy is sculptured in each of the six semicircular niches which enrich the sides. Yapton vicarage is attached to that of "Walberton, valued at £218, and in the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester. WAL- BERTON (population, 578) lies one mile north of the Yapton station. Walberton House (R. Prime, Esq.) is a stately mansion set at the head of an ample lawn. It was built in 1817, from the designs of Smirke. The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is partly Early English. We run through a country of little interest, catching pleasant glimpses of the sea on the one hand, and of the undulating crest of the Downs on the other, until, at 5 miles from Anmdel, we reach Barnham Junction and there take the branch line to BoGNOR (3| miles south). There are several trains daily to and from Brighton. BOGNOR (population, 3289. Inns: York, Norfolk)— i.e., the rocky coast — is Worthing's twin-sister, a quiet, healthy watering-place, seated on a level, in face of the ever restless channel. A reef of rocks, about 2 miles in length, juts out from the shore, and forms a natural but insufficient breakwater. The 142 ARUNDEL TO CHICHESTER. geologist will find here septaria, turritella, rostellarieae, and nautili.* About 1785, Sir Kich irdHotham, a wealthy South wark hatter, determined upon acquiring the glory of a sea-side Romulus, and set to work to erect a town of first class villas in this pleasacfe spot, with a ^'iew of creating a truly recherche watering-place, to be known to posterity as "Hotham town." He spent £60,000, erected and furnished some commodious villas, but did not suc- ceed in giving his name to his own creation, and died broken hearted in 1799. Fashion, however, after some slight delay, patronized the new English bath, and Bognor grew by degrees into its present prosperity. The best streets are the Crescent, Hotham Place, and the Steyne. The Church, dedicated to St. John, was built in 1793. The Parish Church is at SOUTH BEESTED (population, 781), dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, and built in 1405. The Archbishop of Canterbury is patron of the vicarage, which Ls valued at £381. One mile east of Bognor, at a short distance from the shore, and, perhaps, in a situation which is even pleasanter than that of Sir Richard Hotham's "salubrious" but not very "lively" watering-place, is FELPHAM (population, 596). Here, in a delightful villa — standing almost in the centre of the hamlet — lived and died William Hayley, the author of the " Triimiphs of Temper," but certainly better known to the readers of to-day as the friend and biographer of the poet Cowper. His death took place on the 12th of November 1820. Only forty years ago, and yet who reads a line of the poems of the man whom ^Mrs. Opie panegyrized, whom Cowper and Eonmey esteemed, whom his contemporaries regarded as " a gifted minstrel ?" Felpham Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is mainly Perpen- dicular. The font is large and ancient. Remark the monument to Hayley, with an epitaph, long and verbose, by Mrs. Opie. In the churchyard lies interred Dr. Cyril Jackson, d. 1819, * " The sandstone rocks of Bognor are the ruins of a deposit once very extensive ; the lowermost part is a dark grey limestone, the upper part is silicioQS. The Barn rocks, between Selsea and Bognor, the Houndgate and Sheet rocks on the west, and Mizen rocks on the soutb of Selsea, are portions of the same bed" — {Dr. Mantell). VAGHAM. 143 Dean of Christ Churcli, Oxon, and tutor to George IV. He Bpent the last years of Ms life at Felpham, and was visited here on his deathbed by his royal pupil The following lines, on the tombstone of one William Steele, a blacksmith, were written by Hayley : — " My sledge and hammer lie reclin'd ; My bellows, too, have lost their wind ; — My fire's extinct, — my forge decay'd, And in the dust my vice is laid ; — My coal is spent, — my iron gone, — The nails are driven, — my work is done." Felpham Churchyard had the wall that surrounded it swept away in a storm, the gravestones broken, and some of the bodies washed into the sea. [A pleasant excursion may be made either from Bognor, the Barnham, or Dray- ton Stations to PAGHAM (population, 1022), a fishing village situated upon an inlet of the sea, named Pagham Harbour, which dates from the fourteenth century. It is a tidal harbour, with two islands before its narrow mouth. In a place called the Park,* outside the entrance, anchorage may be obtained in 4J fathoms of water. The " curiosity" of Pagham is its Hushing Well. The air is forced by the sea from some submarine gully or cavern in the Pagham Bank, through the sliingle, so as to fret and disturb the whole surface of the water in an area of 130 feet by 30 feet, and produces a peculiar hissing noise which may be heard at a considerable distance. The " edible " of Pagham is the Selsey cockle, found oflF this part of the coast in great quantities, and to be classed by Fuller with the Amberley trout, the Arundel muUet, and the wheat-ear of the Downs, among the " good things " of Sus- sex. There is excellent sport in this vicinity for the disciples of Bishop and Joe JIanton. In every little creek, on every solitary spur of sand, the wild fowl congre- gate like a cloud of wings, — osprey, and tern, and the shrieking gull, — dusky sand- pipers, whirling ring-dotterels, choughs, puffins, and guillemots. The Early English Church of Pagham, spite of repairs, is interesting. It is dedicated to Thomas k Becket, and was therefore buUt after his canonization. The manor belonged to the see of Canterbury, and the Archbishop had a palace here, of which there are no remains. Observe the three-lighted east mndow, the paintings of the sixteenth century were brought from a church in Rouen. From Pagham the pedestrian may keep along the sands, when the tide is out, for some miles, and visit Selsea (Seal's Island), and the bold promontory of Selsea Bill. The whole peninsula was at one time green, ^rith an extensive forest, — the Forest of Manwood, whose name may be traced in that of the Hundred (Manhood) wherein the peninsula is now included. It is now a low flat plain, of London clay, with occasional deep marshes, and is given up without remorse to the grazier. Nothing of the romantic, nothing of the beautiful relieves its dreary uniformity. The sea it- self seems to have surrendered its ancient grandeur, and instead of rolling in thunder against a precipitous waU of chalk, steals craftily and silently over the muddy shore. * Tlie Park, as late as the reign of Henry VIII., was a chase for deer. Bishop Rede excommunicated certain unfortunates who had presumed to "rouse the hart" in this episcopal preserve. 144 ARUNDEL TO CHICHESTER Its power as a Destroyer, however, has been asserted here for centuries, and the coast-line yearly recedes before its insidious advance. Selsea Isle is famous in Ecclesiastical History. Here Wilfred of York was wrecked about 680, and hospitably received by Edilwalch, King of the South Saxons, who -with his Queen had previously been converted to Christianity, but reigned over a Pagan people. " Bishop "Wilfred," says Bede, "by preaching to them, not only rescued them from the torment of eternal perdition, but also from the sufferings of temporal death, for no rain had fallen in that country side for three weary years, and a terrible famine had arisen, and cruelly struck do-\vn the people. Indeed, it is said, that groups of 40 or 50 men, worn out -with want, would rush together to some steep rock, or down to the sea-shore, and perish by the headlong fall, or be devoured by the waters. But on the very day whereon the people accepted the baptism of faith, there fell from Heaven a soft and plenteous rain : once more the earth grew glad, the verdure again sprang up in the meadows, and a pleasant and abundant harvest followed" — (Eccl. History, v. iv. c. 13). The good bishop, however, was wise enough not to trust himself wholly to miraculous interposition. " He taught the people to get their food by fishing, for their seas and rivers abounded in fish, but they had no skill to catch any fish but eels. So the bishop's men, having borrowed eel-nets everywhere cast them into the waters, and by God' s blessing they caught 300 fish of various kinds ; and dividing these into three portions, bestowed a hun- dred upon the poor, a hundred upon those from whom they had hired the nets, and a hundred they resented for their own use." A practical reading of the monkish homily, " Laborare estorare" — Work is Prayer— which we commend to the reader's admiration. Here Wilfred founded a monastery, and he placed in it those of his disciples who had been banished from Northumbria. Its site, it is said, was about 1 mile east of Selsea Church, but the waters long ago overwhelmed its foundations, and neither of the old Saxon abbey, nor of the cathedral of the Episcopate of Selsey, can a stone be found by the most industrious archseologist. Selsey Church was built, it is supposed, by Bishop Rede of Chichester, about 1369-1385. It stands about 2 miles inland. The roof is of recent date. The tower has never been completed. Here are several grave-stones of Sussex marble, in- scribed with a cross, memorials probably of the old Saxon priests, removed from the ruins of the ancient cathedral. Efiigies of a man and woman, with figures of St. George and St. Agatha, their patron-saints, commemorate John Lews, and Agatha hta wife, d. 1537. A grave-stone in the churchyard, to the memory of two young men drowned while rendering assistance to a wrecked vessel, bears an epitaph by Hayley. The fosse and vallum of the British encampment adjoin the churchyard. SS" There is little to interest the tourist in the numerous villages which stud the Selsey peninsula. For his convenience, however, we append a few notes in a tabular form : — BIRDHAM (population, 531), 4 miles from Chichester. Church dedicated to St. Leonard. Rectory valued at £396, is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Chichester. EARNLEY (population, 137), 6J miles from Chichester. Rectory valued at £450, in the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester, and, every third presentation, the Duke of Norfolk. ITCHENOR, WEST (population, 254), 6} mOes south-west of Chichester. Small Early English Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas. Rectory, valued at £174, in the :>ntronage of the Lord Chancelloi EAST WITTERING CHICFESTER. 146 8IDLESHA.M (population, 941), retains the name of its Saxon proprietor, whose "ham " or "home" is now situated at the head of a deep creek of the channel, and on the road from Chichester (6^ miles) to Pagham Harbour. There is an extensive tide-mill on the bank of the estuary already spoken of, " occasioned several cen- turies ago by a sudden irruption of the sea at Pagham, by which 2700 acres were devastated." The Chuech, an Early English building, dedicated to St. Mary, is worth a visit. It contains an Edwardian font (Dallaway). Its embattled tower is probably Perpendicular. There is here an oaken chest, finely carv'ed, and near the chancel is placed a mural momiment, with eflBgies for Rebecca Taylor, d. 1631. The vicarage, valued at £182, is ia the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester. EAST WITTERING (population, 233), 1 mile from the sea, and 7 mUes south- west of Chichester. "From the mouth of Chichester Harbour to the extremity of Chichester Hill, a distance of about 8 mUes, the sea has encroached so as to have absorbed a considerable poition of the prebendal manor of Bracklesham" — {Eors- field). The bay thus formed has excellent sands, affording at low water a capital promenade, and its occasional " patches of soft clay" are fuU of fossil shells. The most interesting spot is immediately ta the neighbourhood of Bracklesham Bam, '' especially at about a furlong to the east, where there is a small break or chine in the low 3lay cliff. Here there is a stratum of light green mariy sand, abounding in venericardii planicosta" (Bowerbank), myliobates, tuiTiteUa, lucina serrata, ceri- thium giganteum, and other fossils. East Witterikg Church is partly Early Norman. The Bishop of London is the patron of the rectory, which is valued at £200. Between East and West Wittering lies the hamlet of Cakeham. The Bishops of Chichester had a marine residence here, and Bishop Sherboume, inspired by the noble sea-view which this position commands, erected a lofty prospect-tower of brick, hexagonal in construction, which is stiU in existence. We take our hats off, as we pass it, in honour of a prelate of such excellent taste. Wittering, West (population, 609), is 7J mUes south-west of Chichester. The district is low and level, but nevertheless it affords " marine views " of uncommon extent, variety, and magnificence. The CHtJRCH dates from the thirteenth century. Three oaken stalls are preserved in the chancel, and a canopied tomb of Caen stone, sculptured with bas-reliefs of the Annunciation and Resurrection, commemorates William Ernley, d. 1545. The \icarage, valued at £300, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Chichester.] During tHis long digression we must fain suppose that " the gentle reader " has sped through a rich bat level country, past the Barxham Station [OYING (population, 1404, — i.e.. the sheep- fold — lies to the right], and arrived at the cathedral city of CHICHESTER. [Population, 8114. Eotels : Dolphin, Anchor, Globe. 60 m. from London, by road ; 79 m. by rail ; 28 m. from Brighton, by rail ; 13 m. from Petworth ; 10 m. from Arundel ; 16 m. from Portsmouth ; 3^ m, from Boxgrove ; 6 m. from Bognor ; and 10 m. from Midhurst. 3^ Omnibuses run between the city and the station. Coaches run daily to and from Godalming, three times a week to Petworth, and daily to Midhurst. K 146 CHICHESTSR. CHICHESTER, tte ancient Regnum, presents, in its main streets, running in straight lines east and west, and north, and south, and its lesser streets diverging at right angles from them — an exact reproduction of the old Roman plan. Its walls, 1^ mile in circuit, stand on the foundations of the ancient walls, and are fashioned out of their materials. A portion of the old waU, on the west side of the city, now forms a pleasant public walk. Coins, urns, bits of tesselated pavement, and other relics, remind us, at almost every step, of its Roman masters — of the city where Cogidubnus, King of the Regni, and the viceroy of the Emperor Claudius, held his royal state. It stood at the point where the Stane Street, which connected Regnum with Londinium, crossed the great via to Portus Magnus (Porchester) ; at the head of the east branch of the creek now known as Cliichester Harbour, and in the shelter and shadow of the lofty Southern Downs. When Ella landed on the Sussex coast, his forces pushed forward from their point of disembarkation (at Cymen's ora, now Keynor, 7 miles south, so named from one of Ella's sons) across the level marshes into Regnum, which they devastated with fire and sword, and out of its ruins built up a Saxon settlement, called, in honour of their chief leader, Cisba's ceaster. AVe hear but little of it during the Anglo-Saxon supremacy. After the Conquest it was absorbed among the possessions of Robert de Montgomery, who built a small castle in its north-east quarter, destroyed in the first year of Henry the First. Three mints were established here, temp. King John, Its walls, strengthened by 16 semicircular towers, were frequently repaired, but could not resist the assault of Sir William Waller's troops, who surprised here Lord Hopton and the royalists in 1643. The siege was of the briefest. " They within the town were easily reduced to straights they could not contend with ; for besides the enemy without, against which the walls and the weather seemed of equal power, and the small stock of provisions, which in so short a time they were able to draw hither, they had cause to apprehend their friends would be weary before their enemies, and that the citizens would not prove a trusty part of the garrison ; and their number of common men was so small that the constant duty was performed by the officers and gentlemen of quality, who were absolutely tired out ; so that, after a week or ten days' siege, they were compelled, upon no better articles than quarter, to deliver the city " — {Clarendon). The victorious Roundheads immediately began their icono- CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL. CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL. 147 clastic labours. Tliey demolislied the cathedral organ, " cryiDg in scoff, 'Hark ! how the organs goe !'" defaced its ornaments, destroyed its tombs, and despoiled them of their brasses ; battered down the churches of St. Pancras and St. Bartholomew ; and pillaged the houses of all who were suspected of being " malig- nants." Sir "William Waller fixed his head-quarters at the Grey Friary House, and " billeted " his soldiers in the Cathedral. It may be added that Algernon Sidney was govemor of Chichester in 1645. The poet Collins was bom in this quiet cathedral city on Christmas day, 1720, and died here, in a house in the cloister, in 1756. Another of its worthies was Bishop Juxon, bom August 24, 1591. Hayley was also a Chichester celebrity — " a star of the sixth magnitude," which hid " its diminished head" after the uprising of greater minds. During the greater part of his life he resided on his estate of Gartham, Sussex. His own poetry is now almost never read, but he will be remembered as the friend and biographer of Cowper. Mention may also be made of the art-labours of George Smith and John Smith, "whose genius in the art of landscape -painting obtained for them a merited distinction in their native city." The first object in Chichester to which the tourist's attention will naturally be directed, is its CATHEDRAL, established here temp. William I., on the removal of the episcopate from Selsey to the ancient Regnum. It was erected on the site of a Saxon monastery, dedicated to St. Peter, and had but a brief existence. It was destroyed by fire in 1114. Bishop Ralph immediately commenced another building, and so energetically pushed forward its works, that it was nearly completed in 1123. Of this vener- able structure much remains. The additions it has received -^ill best be understood from the following chronological state- ment : — Sttle. Additions. Date. Norman. The Nave, Noi h and South Aisles, and Tri- forium, are Bishop Ralph's . . 1091-23 Early English. The higher stones of the South-west Tower, and the Clerestory of the Nave, the West and South Porches, were added by Bishop Seflrid, who lengthened the Choir and vaulted the Roof . ' . . . 1188-99 148 OmOHESTEB. Sttlr. Additions. Dats. Early English. The Marble Shafts, chiefly of Petworth marble, were erected by Bishop Fitzrobert 1204-1 ,, The Spire and Chapter House, by Bishop Neville 1222-45 „ The two Exterior Aisles, North and South, Bishop de la Wych . 1245-53 The Lady Chapel (now the Library), Bishop de St. Lespard .... 1288-1304 Decorated. The Presbytery, Sacristy, South Transept, and Bell Tower, byBishop John de Langton, 1305-38 „ The Reredos and Carved Stalls and Decora- tions of the South Transept, by Bishop Sherboume .... 1508-36 Perpendicular. The Oratory, now the Organ Screen, by Bishop Arundel .... 1458-78 „ The Organ, built by Harris, 1678, improved by Gray and Davidson, 1844, and Hill .1851 „ The Throne, by Bishop Mawson . . 1740-54 Entering the Cathedral by its Western Porch (Early English, and built by Bishop Seffrid II.), we first remark the five divisiona of the Nave — a characteristic which distinguishes it from all other English Cathedrals, but which is not altogether to be admired. Much picturesqueness of effect, however, is produced by their constantly shifting lights and shadows. The cleres- tory, and the Purbeck marble of the piers are to be ascribed to Bishop Seffrid. Bishop Eichard de la Wych (1245-1253), was the builder of the additional aisles, designed for chantries or side chapels. The piscinas and aumbries in the walls indi- cate the positions of the different altars. Observe that the side- shafts are triple, the bearing shafts " clustered in threes," with three triple vaulting-ribs above, symbolic of the Holy Trinity, to whom Bishop Seffrid dedicated this part of the Cathedral. The stained glass in the two western windows is by WaHes. The larger one is a memorial to the late Dean Chandler, erected by the parishioners of All Souls, St. Marylebone, where he was rector for many years. The memorial window, in the north aisle, to Sir Thomas Reynell, is by O'Connor, that to F. E. Free- land, by Willement. The Arundel Chantry is in the north aisle. It contains the tomb of Caen stone — ^restored in 1843 by Richardson, — fni ilEMORIALS. 149 Richard Fitzdlun, Earl of Anmdel, beheaded for high treason in 1397. This tomb was opened by order of Eichard II. shortly after the earl's interment, because the common people believed that a miracle had been wrought, and that his head had grown to his body again. A Chantry, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, occupies the end of the aisle. Here there is a stately Decorated tomb, with effigy, of a nameless lady, supposed by some authorities to be Maud, countess of Arundel, and pronounced by Flaxman the finest in England. ^" ISlEiiORiALS IN THE Nave. — The Hon. William Hmhis- son, d. 1830, the statue by Carew ; Co^^ms, the poet, d. 1756, the medallion by Flaxman. The poet is pictured as studying the Scriptures. " I have but one book," he said to Dr. Johnson shortly before his death, " and that is the best." At his feet lies a volume of " The Passions." Two female figures. Love and Religion, are placed upon the pediment, and underneath is let- tered an epitaph by Hayley and Sargent, — " Ye who the merits of the dead revere, Who hold misfortune's sacred genius dear, Eegard this tomb ; where Collins' hapless name Solicits kindness with a double claim. Strangers to him, enamour'd of his lays, This fond memorial to his talents raise. For this the ashes of the bard require. Who touch'd the tenderest notes of Pity's Lyre." The monuments (in the south aisle) of Jaiie Smith and Acfnes Cromwell, are also Flaxman's handiwork. The memorial window, representing the martyrdom of St. Stephen, is by Wailes. The Choir, and the east aisles behind it, were built by Bishop SeflErid. The latter are Transition Norman in style, and exhibit the gradual change from the circular to the pointed arch. Observe the grotesque bones in which the vaulting ribs terminate. It is difficult to imagine what object the sculptor could have had in view when he carved those monstrous human faces. Was it satirical ? Did any of his contemporaries trace a likeness to certain living notabilities in those exaggerated lineaments ? Behind the altar-screen stand the monuments of Bishop Storey, d. 1503 ; Bishop RenrT/ Kiiig (1641-69), poet and prelate ; Bishop Grove, d. 1596 ; and Bishop Carlton, d. 1685. A purbeck slab, in the pavement, is figured with two hands holding up a heart 150 CHICHESTER. and inscribed " Ici git le coeur de Maud." The rest is illegible. The tomb of Bishop Day^ d. 1556, is on the right. The Screen which separates choir and nave was erected by Bishop Arundel (1458-78), and is known as his " Oratory." A nicked arcade surmounts these arches, which are enriched with quatrefoils in their spandrils. The stalls in the choir, the altar- screen, and the decorations of the south transept, were the gift of Bishop Sherbourne, and justify old Fuller's quaint eulogy : — " Now though Sefi&ide bestowed the cloth and making on the church. Bishop Sherbourne gave the trimming and best lace thereto." The North Transept forms the parish church of St. Peter the Great, more commonly called the Sub-Deanery. The South Transept was lengthened, and its beautiful window inserted, by Bishop Langton (1305-38), but the Roundhead troopers destroyed the stained glass. The Bishop's tomb, considerably defaced, stands beneath it, and close at hand, the memorial of John Smith, Esq. of Dale Park. The tomb near the choir is con- sidered to be that of Bishop Richard de la Wych, d. 1253, the last Englishman who received " the honour " of canonization. In the Acta Sanctorum may be read, in considerable detail, the miracles wrought by St. Richard of Chichester. The tomb was restored by Richardson in 1847, and the small figures in the arches are entirely his handiwork. Hither the devout pilgrims of Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire were wont to repair, and lay their offerings, and branches plucked on the road, on the shrine of the Sussex saint. The figures of the Bishops of Selsey and Chichester which enrich the walls were Bishop Sherbourne's donation to liis Cathedral. Prom the " family-likeness " between them, one would imagine that they respresent a succession of great grand- fathers, fathers, and sons, all of the same remarkable race. The English sovereigns are presented on the opposite wall, and above them a picture, in two panels, represents Cadwalla bestowing Selsey upon St. Wilfrid, and Henry VIH. confirming the grant to Bishop Sherbourne. CadwaUa is a portrait of Henry VIL, and all the kings, nobles, and ecclesiastics introduced are costumed in the Tudor style. A Flemish artist, Theodore Bernardi, and his sons were the artists employed by Bishop Sherbourne. The railed-off portion of the transept is now made use of as an ecclesiastical court. The old consistory (Perpendicular in LADY CHAPEL— CHAPTER LIBRARY. 151 style) was a room over the porch, to which access was obtained by a spiral staircase in the nave. It opened upon the Lollardfi^ P^son through a sliding panel. A very curious oaken chest, 8 feet long, preserved in the Sacristy ; and two carved slabs (discovered in 1829) which represent the Eaising of Lazarus, and Martha and Mary meeting the Saviour, are supposed to have been removed from Selsey. Near these sculptures stands the tomb of Bishop Sherhourae^ d. 1536, restored at the expense of New College, Oxon, to which foundation the prelate had intrusted its custody. At the extreme east end of the Cathedral is the Lady Chapel, built by Bishop de St. Lespard (1288-1305), at an expense of 1250 marks. It is now little better than a mortuary chapel for the Duke of Eichmond's family. A slab is inscribed " DO^MUS ULTBIA, 1750," — an inscription which suggested to Dr. Clarke, one of the residentiaries, the following bitter epigram : — " Did he who thus inscribed this wall, Not read, or not believe, St. Panl, "WTio says there is, where'er it stands, Another house, not built with hands ? Or may we gather from these words That house is not a house — for Lords?" Under two arches in the passage which leads to the Lady Chapel, is placed the black marble slab inscribed to Bishop Ealph, d. 1123, The large canopied tomb in the north aisle is that of Bishop Moleynes, a faithful adherent of the Lancasterian party, murdered at Portsmouth in 1459. The Chapter Library, with its rare !MSS,, printed books, and relics, is preserved in the Lady Chapel. Among the relics are a silver chalice and paten, an agate thumb-ring (or Basilidian gem) inscribed "uith a Gnostic talisman, two other rings, and a leaden cross, discovered in 1829 in the stone cofi^ns of two prelates, who are supposed to have been Godfrey , the second bishop of CTiiches- ter, d. 1088, and Bishop Seffrid IL, d. 1205. From the south aisle we pass into the quiet Cloisters (Per- pendicular), which afford some fine views of the general charac- teristics of the Cathedral. The space they enclose is called ^' Paradise." The Spire* (which is a copy of the original) is 270 * The original spire fell in 1861 during a gale of wind ; the new one, under the direction of Sir G. G. Scott, was erected in 1866. 152 CHICHESTER. feet liigli, and so resembles that of Salisbury that the local saying ran, — " The master-mason built Salisbury, and his man built Chichester." Mr. Truman, in an able paper on the architecture of the Cathedral, to which the tourist may with advantage refer {Sus. Arch. Coll., vol. i.), points out that in these Cathedrals alone there is " a visible centre and axis to the whole building, viz., the summit of the spire, and a line let fall from it to the ground. Salisbury was so constructed at first. Chichester was made exactly central, to an inch, by the additions of the Lady Chapel and west porch. Michael Angelo's most perfect outline, the pyramidal, is thus gained. The eye is carried upward to the spire point from the chapels clustering at the base, along the roof of pinnacles." Detached from the building, on the north side, rises the campanile or bell-tower, 120 feet high. It has four turrets at its summit, exactly similar to those at the base of the spire, whence it has been conjectured that it was built (at the same period) to receive the bells from the old tower. The stone made use of was quar- ried near Ventnor, in the Isle of Wight. DIMENSIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL. Length in feet. Breadth in feet. Height in feet. Nave 156 91-9 62-3 Choir 105 59 60 Presbytery 52-2 Lady Chapel 62-9 207 22 Sphe ... ... 271 South-west tower ... ... 95 Transept 131 24-3 ... Campanile 120 Total length 380 feet. The Cathedral establishment includes a dean, four canons, five minor canons, seven lay vicars, ten choristers, and four Wyke- hamical prebends. The average yearly income is £5100. Among the more notable bishops may be named — Ealph de Neville, Lord Chancellor, 1222-45 ; Richard de la Wych, or St. Richard, 1245-53 ; Adam Moleynes, Henry VI.'s councillor, 1445-9 ; Lancelot Andrewes, the sycophantic favourite of James I., 1605-9 ; Brian Duppa, 1638-41 ; and Francis Hare, the adversary of Hoadley, in the famous Bangorian controversy 1731-40. PAROCHIAL CHURCHES. 153 The Episcopal Palace is situated to the west of the cathe- dral, and consists of a spacious mansion whose two -swings are con- nected hj an open corridor. The Chapel is of the age of Henry HL, with windows of a later date. Eemark the timber ceiUng of Bishop Sherboume's Eefectort, painted in compartments with scrolls and armorial bearings by the Bemardis. The ^Market Cross, at the point of junction of the four great Cistercian thoroughfares, was built by Bishop Storey about 1480, and considerably defaced by Waller's troopers. The dial was given, in 1724, by Dame Elizabeth Farrington. "Its vaulted roof is supported by a thick central pillar, and by a series of archer octagonal in form, and highly ornamented "with coats of arms and other ornaments." It is altogether an interesting and a picturesque structure, which the townsmen keep in excellent repair. The Guild Hall, situated in the priory park, near the end of North Street, was formerly a chapel belonging to a monastery of Grey Friars. Behind the magistrates' seats may be seen the ancient Early English sedilia. A circular mound in the garden was, perhaps, the Calvary of the ancient priory. A rapid visit to the Parochial Churches of the city must now be undertaken. St. Peter the Great, in the Early Decorated style, was erected about 1850, and underwent additions in 1881. Until 1841 the north transept of the cathedral formed the parish church. "Within the precincts of this parish, and in the cathe- dral cloisters, lies William Chillingvjorth, d. 1644, the famous author of " The Religion of Protestants a safe way to Salvation." When his funeral procession arrived at the grave, it was met by his impetuous opponent, the Presbyterian ChejTiell, who flung Chillingworth's immortal work upon his cofiin " to rot," he said, " with its author, and see corruption !" All Satnts', in the Pallai^t, is of great antiquity. Some por- tions may be Early Xorman. Hayley, the poet, was baptized here, November 25, 1745. The church of St. Axdrew, in East Street, was built temp. Henry YIL At a depth of 4 feet beneath it lies a Eoman tesse- lated pavement. Collins was buried here in 1756. St. ^Martin's, in St. Martin's Lane, was rebuilt about forty years ago, in a style which may be denominated Modem Gothic The east window, with its stained glass, is good. St. Olave's, in North Street, recently restored, occupies the 154 CHICHESTEB. site of a Roman building, and is, perhaps, the oldest Christian church in England. Roman bricks were employed in its con- struction, and the small door on the south side may even be of Roman work. St. Pancras' Church stands at a small distance beyond the East Gate. It was nearly demolished during Waller's siege of the city in 1 6 4 2, and not rebuilt until 1750. St. Bartholomew's was destroyed at the same time. There is nothing of interest in the present building. The Chapel, dedicated to St. John, stands on the site of the Black Friars', near the East Gate. It was built in 1813 from the designs of James Elmes. [The patrons and annual incomes of these "benefices are aa follows : — ^All Saints, R, £45, Archbishop of Canterbury; St. Andrew, R, £80, Dean and Chapter of Chichester; St. Martin, R, £67, the same patrons ; St. OJave, R, £56, the same ; St. Pancras, R, £95, Simeon's Trustees ; St. Peter the Great, V., £300, Dean and Chapter; St. Peter the Less, R., £56, the Dean ; St. Bartholomew, P. C, £65, the Dean; St. Paxil's, P. C, the Dean and Chapter; St. John's, Trustees.] St. Mary's Hospital is a picturesque Decorated pile, which the tourist must not fail to visit. It was founded in 1229, and replaced a nunnery originally established in 1173. The reve- nues are apportioned among a custos or warden, six women, and two men, whose rooms are constructed in the side walls of the Refectory or Long HaU. The Chapel, which contains some excellent carved work, is divided from this hall by an open oaken screen. The arched roof and its huge timbers, resting on low stone walls, deserves examination. Some houses in the upper part of South Street were built, it is said, by Wren. The Philosophical Society have their Museimi of Local Antiquities and Natural History in this street, which communicates mth the Cathedral Close by the Canons' Gate, built by Bishop Sherbourne, whose arms are sculptured above the entrance. The Otter ^Memorial College (for training schoolmasters), founded by Bishop Otter, and erected in 1849-50, from Butler's designs ; and the entrenchment on the Goodwood road, known as the Brotle (from bruillum, a coppice), have each a special inte- rest for different classes of tourists. [Hints for Rambles.— 1. To Tangmere and Boxgrove Church. Visit Halnaker House; cross to Goodwood and return by East Lavant.— 2. Through Appledram, Donnington, and Sidlesham, to Selsey. Return by way of Pagham and North Mundliain. — 3. By the Portsmouth road to Bosham. Keep northwards to Funting- TANGMERE BOXGROVE. 155 ton. Thence to West Stoke and Mid Lavant. — 4. Keep across the hills to Cocking, and thence by way of Heyshot and Graffham into the Guildford road. Return through Boxgrove. — 5. By road to ArundeL Visit Arundel Castle and Leominster. Return from Arundel Station hy rail. — By rail to Bamham Station. Visit Bognor ani South Bersted. Cross the country to Oving and Tangmere (north), and return by the Brighton road.] BKANCH ROUTE— CHICHETSER to PULBOEOUGH. If we leave Cliicliester by the Guildford road we shall reach, at 2 miles from the cathedral city, the highway which diverges to Brighton. TANGMERE (population, 221) lies at some small distance beyond us. Its Early English Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, consists of a nave and chancel. Part of the paving of the latter is a curious combination of bricks, stones, plain and ornamented aisles. The Duke of Richmond is patron of the rec- tory, which is valued at ^282. A cross road leads u^ from this little village through BOX- GROVE (population, 755), into the Guildford road, 4 miles from Chichester. Boxgrove Church is not one of the least interesting in the country. It embodies portions of Boxgrove Priory, founded in i 1 1 7 by Robert de Haia, Lord of Halmacro, for three Benedictine monks, and dedicated to the Virgin and St. Blaise. Roger St. John, who married the Lord of Halmacro's heiress, added three more, and his sons increased the number to fifteen. When sup- pressed by King Henry VIII. there were but nine monks, and their annual revenues were estimated at £189, 19s. The present parish church is supposed to have been the ori- ginal choir. Some portions of the ancient nave (apparently of a still earlier date) may be traced in the broken arches west of the church. The Chapter House is attached externally to the north transept. Its Norman doorway probably led to a cloister which extended to the Refectory and the habitations of the monks. A gap, generally inhabited by browsing sheep, now separates the Refectory from the Church. Marks of a piscina may just be discerned. The Church consists of a low tower, nave, and chancel, side aisles, and north and south transept, and a space westward of the tower which has been characterized as the most ancient part of 156 GOODWOOD. the whole building. Its length is 124 feet ; width of the nave^ 24 feet ; of each of the aisles, 13 feet 6 inches. The east win- dow is Early English, of three large lights, and very fine. The interior contains six tombs of great antiquity, but which it is almost impossible to identify with any degree of satisfaction. Two of the three placed against the south wall of the south aisle probably contain the dust of Olive and Agatha, daughters of William de Albini, Earl of Arundel, and Queen Alice the Fair. Other two tombs may enshrine the remains of Thomas de Poynings, d. 1429, and his wife Philippa, Countess of Arundel. The Delawarr Sacellum, or Shrine, dated 1532, is very curious and beautiful. Its length is 14 feet, its height 12 feet, and it bears the inscription — " Of y'" charite pray for y^ souls of Thomas La Ware and Elyzabeth hys Wyf." It is richly carved in stone, and profusely ornamented. The pulpit is of carved oak. The font is ancient. The Duke of Richmond is patron of the vicarage, which is valued at £750, About half a mile to the left lie the scanty remains of Hal- nacre or Halnaker House, built by Sir Thomas West, Lord Delawarr, who also fashioned for himself "a poor chapell" at Boxgrove Church. The walls were castellated. The gateway, furnished with a portcuUis, was furnished with small octangular towers, leading into a square court. The surrounding Park is enriched with noble groups of Spanish chesnut, in whose shadow a large herd of deer disport. We cross from this point westward into GOODWOOD PARK (Duke of Richmond), to which the tourist has at all times ready access. The mansion can only be seen during the family's absence. Of the luxuriantly wooded park (1214 acres) much might be said and written in commendation ; with respect to the house it is otherwise. The architects were Sir William Cham- bers (who built the south wing) and Wyatt. The centre is 160 feet long, and ornamented with a double colonnade ; each of the two receding wings is flanked by towers, and 106 feet in length. [The Collection of Pictttees is large, but contains few chefs d'cetivres. The Hall is adorned by some fine Vandykes — Charles I., Henrietta Maria in all her fatal beauty, and their five children ; Charles II. by Sir Peter Lely; Louise de Querouailles, Duchess of Portsmouth, Kneller ; her son, Charles, first Duke of Richmond, and his wife Anne, Kneller; Sir William WaUer, by Lely; and the Duchesa of Rich- mond* Sir Thomas Lawrence. GOODWOOD MANSION. 167 The Drawinq-Room, 35 feet by 23, is hung with Gtobelin tapestry (the gift of Louis XV. to Duke Charles), representing the adventures of Don Quixote. The chimney-piece, sculptured by Bacon vrtth the story of Venus and Adonis, cost £150. Here are preserved in a cabinet " a worked shirt of Charles I., and some silver arti- cles used during the infancy of Charles II." The DiNiNG-RooM, 45 feet by 23 feet, where the allied Sovereigns were banqueted on their visit to England iu 1814, contains a bust of Wellington, by Turnelli; and Nollekens* busts of William Pitt and the Marquis of Rockingham. The Music Room contains a fine picture of a ruined sea-port by Salvator Rosa ; portraits of the Marquis of Montrose, Henry Carew the song writer, and witty Pettigrew, by Van- dyck : the Duke of Monmouth, Kneller; and specimens of Lely and others. In the Ante-Room may be noticed four portraits by Sir Joshvu, and a William Pitt, by Gainsborough. The Lebrabt presents to our notice the third Duke of Richmond, by Romney: and the fourth Duke, by Jackson. The Billiard Room, Lord Anson, by Romney: and some tolerable landscapes by the two Smiths of Chichester. Here, too. Is hung the highly curious *' Cenotaph of Lord Damley," removed from the Chateau D'Aubigny, where it was accidentally discovered. In the right hand comer an inscription indicates the subject of the picture : — " Tragica et lamentabilis inter- necio serenissimi Henrici Scotorum Regis." Other inscriptions record that the picture was begun in October 1567 (seven months after the murder), and completed in the following January. It has been ascribed to Levinus Venetianus. Small designs representing the scene of the murder, the murdered man's body beneath a tree in the orchard, the battle of Carberry HUl, and the city of Edinburgh, surroHnd a large oval composition in which King James, the Earl and Countess of Lennox (Damley's parents), and others are pictured kneeling before Damley's corpse, which is deposited at the base of an altar. The walls of the Stone Staircase are enriched with Hogarth's picture of " The Lady's Last Stake ; " the Judgment of Paris, Guide ; Marriage at Cana, Paolo Veronese ; the Madonna, Parmegiano ; Antiochus and Stratonice, Barry ; Duke of Monmouth, Lely; and specimens of the Smiths of Chichester, Hudson, and Romney. The Long Hat.t. contains two views of London from the terrace and gardens of Richmond House, Whitehall, by Canaletti. The Park is finely ordered in its alternations of the artistic and the natural ; from the ascent in the rear of the house some good prospects may be enjoyed. About 150 cedars of Lebanon remain out of 1000 planted by the third Duke of Richmond in 1761. There is a noble avenue of chesnuts, and some glorious cj-pressea in the High Woods, near the house, where, also, is preserved the remarkable Brito- Roman slab discovered at Chichester in 1731 (together -nath the remains of the stone wall of a temple), when the foundations for the Council Chamber were excavated. It is a slab of grey Purbeck marble, and was thus inscribed. [The letters in italics indicate those which have been conjecturally supplied.] " iS'^'eptuni et Minervse temptum Pro salute domus divinse Ex anchoritat« Tifteriis Claudii Cogidubin r. leg. aug. in Brit. CJoZfegium fabror. et qui in eo A sacris sunt d. s. d. donante aream Pudente pudentini fii" *^t* In explanation of this inscription it may be added that the "collegium fabronun " was probably a company of smiths or shipwrights of Chichester, who would naturally regard Neptune and Minei-va as their patrons. Cogidubnus was 168 GOODWOOD RACE-COURSE. highly rewarded for his fidelity to the Roman alliance, and, according to the Roman fashion, assumed the name of his patron, the Emperor Tiberius Claudius. The site of the temple, whose foundation stone was laid by Cogidubnus, was given by Pudens, son of Pudentinus, who is supposed to be the British Christian, a disciple of St. Paul's, referred to in conjunction with Claudia in the second epistle to Timothy, c. iv., v. 21, and also named by Martial.] The Goodwood Kace Course, on the high ground, 1 mile north-east of the house, commands a magnificent landscape. The Goodwood races, a well-known aristocratic gathering, were esta- blished in 1802. Other points of different degrees of interest, either in the Park or its immediate vicinity, are Gairney Seat, so named from an old retainer of the Richmonds ; the Pheasantry, in a leafy hollow of the chalk ; the Stables, which are complete in every detail ; the great Lehanon Cedar, 25 feet in girth ; the pleasant rustic villa at Molecomh ; the circular camp of the Trundle, enclosing 5 acres, which crowns the summit of St. Roche's Hill (locally Rock's Hill), 702 feet above the sea-level. Goodwood, or Godinwood, derived its name from its Saxon owner, Godwinus. It was purchased from the Comptons, in 1720, by the first Duke of Richmond, the son of Madam Carwell (Louise de Querouailles) and Charles H. About 2 miles from Boxgrove, to the right of the main road, and at some short distance from it, lies EARTHAM (population, 103). Hayley resided here until 1800, when he disposed of his estate to Huskisson, the statesman, whose life was the first sacri- fice to " the railway giant." He enlarged the house, and made considerable improvements in the vicinity. The Early English Church consists of a chancel, nave, and north aisle. The chancel arch is Norman, and very fine. A beautiful sculpture by Flax- man commemorates Thomas Hayley, d. 1800, the poet's only child. There is a tablet in the north aisle to Huskisson's memory, but the imfortunate statesman was buried at Liverpool. The vicarage, valued at £187, is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. We next reach UP WALTHALI (population, 67) — where there is an Early English Church, with an apsidal chancel — and turning to the right, ascend the slopes of Sutton Hill. From its crest we command a panorama of wood, and dale, and glen, and village, which we treasure up as one of " things of beauty," which are "joys for ever." Passing through SUTTON (population, BIGNOR. 159 389, Inn : The WMte Horse) we wind tJn'ough a pleasant bloom- ing lane to BIGNOR (population, 203), on an excursion into Eoman England. For it is neither Bignor Park nor Bignor Church that draws us hither into the depths of the "Weald, but the remains of a Roman villa, of more than ordinary interest, first excavated in 1811. Bignor is the " Ad decimam" of the itinerary of Richard of Cirencester, that is, a station at the tenth milestone from Regnum, — " a halting-place which was probably established at this point of the Roman road on account of the vicinity of the great villa ; just as a modem railway ' lord' procures a station in the neighbourhood of his own residence." The remains are now protected from the weather by some wooden huts. The fields where they are situated have been long known as the Berry field, and the Towm field ; " the former no doubt because it had been the site of a principal mass of build- ings (from the Anglo-Saxon heorh), and the other because it was an old tradition among the inhabitants of the parish that the town of * Bignor' once stood there." In July 181 1, a ploughman, at work in the Berry field, struck his share against what proved to be part of a beautiful Roman pavement, which had evidently belonged to a large and hand- some room. A series of careful excavations, under the superintend- ence of Lysons, the antiquary, brought to light the pavements and foundations of a Roman villa of considerable magnitude. They were traced in fact to an extent of about 600 feet in length, and nearly 350 feet in breadth. The principal household build- ings formed about half that length. They stood round an inner court, which was nearly a rectangular parallelogram, about 150 feet by 100 feet. Its aspect was, in its length, neariy north- west and south-east. Round this court ran a beautiful crypto- porticus, or covered gaUery, 10 feet wide, with a fine tessellated pavement. At the north angle there was a small square room, with an " extremely elegant tessellated pavement." On the north- east side were placed the chief apartments. The first apartment was here discovered in 1811, and presented two divisions (as in a London front and back drawing-room), which may probably have been separated by movable hangings. In each division may be noticed a circular compartment, one 16 feet in diameter, the other 1 7 feet 6 inches ; the larger pictorially illustrated with dancing nymphs, — the smaller with the rape of Ganymede. " This pavement so completely resembles one at Avenches in Switzer- 160 BIQNOR. land, executed about the reign of Titus, that this Sussex villa has been assigned to the same period" — {Murray). There is a stone cistern or fountain in the centre of the larger room, 4 feet in diameter, and 1 foot 7f inches in depth, which appears to have been filled by a jet d'eau. " To judge by the remains, the walls had been beautifully painted in fresco, fragments of which were lying about, the colours perfectly fresh. A fragment or two of small Doric columns were found among the rubbish of this apartment" — {Wright, Wanderings of an Ajitiquary). The next room exhibits another handsome pavement, which had been adorned at the angles with figures symbolical of the Four Seasons. That of Winter remains : a woman's head shrouded in drapery, a leafless branch at her side : colour and expression of no ordinary degree of merit. A third room boasts of a yet more fanciful decoration ; the pavement, divided into two apart- ments, is ornamented with Cupids, dressed as gladiators — retiarii, with their short swords and entangling nets ; secutores, helmeted and greaved ; and rudiarii, the veteran " masters of the cere- monies." Here you see the athletes making ready for the coming fight ; there, the struggle has commenced. Here, the rudiarius comes to the succour of the wounded retiarius ; there, he lies dis- armed, " butchered to make a Roman holiday." A semicircular division in the north angle of the pavement presents a charming female head, adorned with a wreath of blossoms, and enriched by a light azure halo. There are some remains of small Doric columns. Another room, 14^ feet by 17 feet, contains a caminus, or focus — an open fire place — instead of the hot-air-hypocaust. The Bath-room is at the south-west corner of the Crypto-por- ticus, and contains extensive portions of the bath. Adjoining it are large rooms with hypocausts for heating the sudatorium. " Other large rooms adjoin the south comer at the extremity of the south-east end of the inner court, in the middle of which end was the grand entrance into this iimer court from a much larger outer court. This outer court seems to have been surrounded with bare walls, although tracings of buildings were found in various parts of the interior. The walls of this outer court seem to have been continued so as to surround the whole edifice, which perhaps, externally, presented merely the appearance of a great irregular square-walled enclosure. It must have been a princely residence, and it is evident that the luxurious comforts of the BIGNOR PARK. 161 interior ^vere no les3 studied than the beauty of the scenery around " — ( Wright). A few fragments of pottery are preserved at the villa ; and at Bignor Park there is shewn a gold-ring, set with an exqui- site intaglio, which depicts a warrior holding his shield before him, 1^" The Bignor remains are exliibited to the tourist on pay- ment of a small fee. Application must be made to Mr. Tupper at the neighbouring farm. It is understood that their owner would be glad to dispose of the site and its relics, and sug- gestions have been made for the removal of the latter to the British Museum. Let us hope that they will be suffered to remain here, on the land which of old they occupied as por- tions of the royal villa of some haughty proprietor or august legate ; and that so the tourist's imagination may be inspired to people the surrounding hills with the stalwart soldier-colo- nists sent forth by imperial Rome, — to hear the soft voice of Lydia or Aglaia repeating the graceful love-songs of Tibullus, — to see the social life of Roman England seething, and toiling, and whirling all around him, where now in the grassy valley only murmurs the music of the winds ! We return now to Bignor (^ mile west), and visit the unin- teresting Church, small in itself, but " a world too large" for the congregation which ordinarily assembles there. The churchyard boasts of two noble yews. Lord Leconiield is the patron of the rectory, which is valued at ^143. Bignor Park (S. H. Hawkins, Esq.) was originally " an appen- dage to the Castle of Arundel, and used for fatting deer driven in from the forest" — {Horsfield). The present house, commanding rich and extensive views of the lofty sweep of the South Downs and the brown leaf masses of the "Weald, was begun in 1826, and occupies the site of an old Tudor mansion. Charlotte Smith, the author of " The Old Manor House," died 1806, and Ihs. Dorset, author of the " Peacock at Home," were the daughters of Nicholas Turner, Esq., who long enjoyed this picturesque estate, and they resided here for many years. In her " Sonnets," Charlotte Smith has duly cele- brated the charms of this neighbourhood and of the valley of the Aran. [From Bignor the tourist may divei^e south-east to Bury Hill, where there is R large tumulus, and whence a fine prospect may be obtained ; or he may keep Rway southward to Dale Park fC. Fletcher, Esq.), which commands snme exqui- L 162 CHICHESTER TO HASELMERE. site views of the suiTOunding countiy. Slindon Park (Countess of Newburgh) liea to the south-west of Dale Park, from which it is separated by the village of SLIN- DON (population, 599). It was erected by Sir Garret Kempe, temp. Elizabeth, on the site of a mansion originally built — as early as the thirteenth century — by an archbishop of Canterbury, and reported to be the scene of the death of the great Steplien Langton. Slindon Church, Early English, contains the efiBgy of a knight under a niche in the chancel.") Eetuming tlirougli SUTTON and BARLAYINGTON (popula- tion, 128), into the Guildford road, we speedily reach, at 2^ miles south of Pet^vorth, the small parish of BURTON (population, 28), chiefly included mtliin the ring-fence and palings of Burton Park (S. Biddulph, Esq.), formerly the seat of the Gorings. The present building retains some portions of " a new, spacious, and splendid structure," designed by Giacomo Leoni, which was nearly destroyed by fire in 1826. The park includes 210 acres. It is abundantly wooded and well watered. The ponds are stored with carp, trout, and pike, and haunted by wild fowl. An oak, near the house, is 25 feet in girth. Burton Church contains some memorials, in Sussex marble, for members of the Goring family. Divine service is now per- formed in the parish church at COATES, a small building con- taining some interesting relics of the Goring family, who were the former lords of the manor. [At DUXCTON (population, 272), on the northern slope of the chalk hills, the re- mains of a Roman hypocaust were discovered in 1815, about 140 yards north-east of the church. It probably belonged to a Roman public military bath.] Keeping north from Burton we cross (2 miles from Petworth) the branch line of the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway to jSIidhurst and Petersfield, and crossing the Rother (here little more than a brook) soon see before us the demesne of Petworth Park. BRANCH ROUTE— CHICHESTER, via mDHURST, TO HASELIMERE. "We leave the cathedral city by the direct Guildford road, Avhich runs through a country of singularly romantic character After passing the Broyle, to our right lies AVEST HAMPNETT (population, 637), or Hamplonette, whose workhouse or " Union" exhibits considerable remains of the ancient Elizabethan Place- MID LAVANT WEST DEAN. 163 House, biiilt by Pdchard Sackville. The ceiling of tlie Great Staircase is covered vrith an allegory of St. Cecilia. To the aforesaid Richard Sackville, and Elizabeth Ms wife, there is a curious mural monument in the chancel of St. Peter's church, with " one of the worst representations of the Trinity that can possibly be conceived." The Duke of Eichmond is the patron of the vicarage. At 2 miles from Chichester we pass ATTD LAVANT (population, 284), and beyond it, EAST LAVANT (population, 421). Pennant derives the word "Lavant" from the Celtic Televan, and says it indicates " a place alternately covered with water, or left dry at the recess of the tides." Hence he infers that "the harbour of Chichester formerly flowed higher up the country, and washed even the walls of the city." The Lavant is now a small rivulet, which empties itself into Chi- chester Harbour. It rises in Charlton Forest. Mid Lavant Church is as commonplace in character as most of the churches built after the Restoration generally prove. It contains a marble effigy of Dame Mary May, d. 1681. The Duke of Richmond is patron of the curacy. East Lavant Church consists of a nave and chancel, and contains a brass for Thomas Cawse, and a slab of Sussex marble, inscribed in Longobardic characters, — " Priez gi passez par id. Pour Valme Luci de Mildehir The rectory, valued at £460, is in the patronage of the Duke of Richmond. At ]Mid Lavant a road branches off across the downs, over- looking in its course the rich masses of Goodwood Park, while another keeps to the left along the base of the hill , and passes WEST DEAN (population, 669). West Dean Park (Rev. L. V. Harcourt) is a luxuriantly wooded demesne, sheltered by an environment of pleasant hills. The mansion has a front- age of 300 feet, in a quasi-Gothic style, and was built by Lord Selsey in 1804. Near Chilgrove, in this parish, Roman sepul- cliral urns have been occasionally found. West Dean Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is partly Early English, and consists of a nave, chancel, transept, and west tower. A stately monument on the right side, with a full-length figure recumbent, and two effigies in a devotional attitude, comrae- 164 CHICHESTER TO HASELMERE. morates three of the Lewknor family — uncle, son, and nephew. Dates of decease, 1616, 1602, — . There are some other note- worthy memorials of the Selseys, Peacheys, and Lewknors. The Dean and Chapter of Chichester present to this vicarage. Either at West Dean or East Dean {dency a valley), some authorities place the first interview between King Alfred and the learned Asser (see p. 37). At SINGLETON (population, 603) both roads imite, and the highway winds through a richly- wooded valley, until, climbing the northern range of the South Downs, it reaches the village of COCKING (population, 482), situated in a narrow gap, from which, on either side, the green slopes of the bil]H ascend with, so to speak, a billowy swell. The Early English Church here has a nave, chancel, and south aisle. There was a cell here in con- nection with the abbey of Seez and with the college of Arundel. [A pleasant excursion may be made from this point through HEYSHOT (popula- tion, 432), GRAFFHAM, and LAVINGTON (population, 170), to Burton, and thence northward to Petworth. The road runs along the crest of the Downs, and com- mands, as may be imagined, a landscape of peculiar charm and beauty. Hills, shrouded in leafy woods, rise before us as we ascend, and beneath us sweeps the long valley of the Rother from Pulborough, where it breaks through the chalk-range to the very borders of Hampshire. Beyond, rises the elevated ridge of the lower greensand, and far away, against the misty skies, swells the undulating outline of the Surrey hiUs. Everywhere, a quiet village, an ancient grange, a gray old church- tower, a gabled manor-house, recalls some interesting associaiion or picturesque tradition. Heyshot Chuech is an uninteresting Perpendicular building. GiurFHAii Church, partly Early English and partly decorated, is dedicated to St. Giles.] At 2 miles north of Cocking, and in a country whose charac- teristics are sufficiently indicated by its name, lies MTDHUEST (population, 1500. Inns : Angel, New Inn, Eagle), on an ascent rising gently from the bank of the Rother, which is navigable from hence to Pulborough, where it meets the Arun. It is a quiet, old-world town, Avith little trade, but in the centre of some delightful scenery. On St. Anne's Hill, across the river, remain the ruined foundations of the old castle of the Bohuns. A strong Chalybeate Spring Avails out unheeded from the turfy depths of a pleasant little dell, near Coster's Llill. At Great Todham are traces of an old Jacobean manor-house. The Midhurst Grammar School (on the Petworth road), founded by Gilbert Hannam in 1672, bears a good reputation, and is con- COWDRAT PARK. 165 nected with Wincliester College. Here Sir diaries Lyell, the geologist, was educated. Midhurst Church, Perpendicular lq style, is dedicated to St. Dennis, and consists of a nave, chancel, south aisle, and low embattled tower. The Montague sepulchral chapel, south of the chancel, has recently been deprived of its most remarkable monument (see Easebourne). The Earl of Egmont is patron of the benefice, a perpetual curacy, valued at £170. From MIDHURST to PETWORTH— EAST. [COWDRAY PARK (800 acres) lies to the east of Midhurst. The Pet-svorth road runs quite through it. Its wooded knoUs and ferny hollows, its grassy glades and broad stretches cf crisp green turf, are the very luxuries of beauty. An avenue of Spanish chesnuts is especially grand in its full and ngorous leaflness ; and there are everywhere nooks of greenery and shadowy dells, which boon to poet and artist wiU offer a fresh and genial inspiration. The ruins of Cowdray, the great house of the great Montagues, are not extensive, but they are interesting. The arms of Sir Anthony Browne, Henry VIII. 's favourite, and the standard-bearer of England, adorn the entrance-gateway. Traces of the paintings which enriched the walls are visible ; the windows of the hall and chapel are almost entire ; within the quadrangle Ue, half-consumed, the bucks carved in wood which formerly ornamented " the Buck HaU." "We may stand here amid the ivy-shrouded ruins, and reproduce in imagination the stately mansion which, raised by Sir WUham Fitzwilliam, Earl of Southampton, — stepson of Sir Anthony BrowTie —about 1530, was embellished -svith Roberti's paintings and Groupe's statues ; with the genius of Holbein, and the fancy of Pellegrini ; with curious antique fittings and fomiture ; a noble quadrangle, a richly decorated chapel — all consumed or scathed by fire on the night of Tuesday, September 24, 1793. Its owner, George, eighth and last Viscount Montague, was at the time on the continent, and before the news of the destruction of his ancestral mansion reached him, was drowned in a rash at- tempt to pass the falls of Schaffhausen in Switzerland. Cowdray now devolved upon his sister, who had married W. S. Poyntz, Esq. This gentleman built a cottage om6e about 1 mile from the ruins, which he named Cowdray Lodge, and which, with the demesne, was sold in 1843 to the Earl of Egmont. Queen Elizabeth passed five days at Cowdray in 1591, on a visit to Lord Mon- tague, who had attended her at West Tilbury with 200 horsemen. The " Close Walk," where she exhibited her regal magnificence to the dazzled eyes of her courtiers, and where she brought down with a cross-bow three or four deer which were driven past her covert, still fiourishes in leafy luxuriance. Beyond the park gate, and on the right of the road to Petworth, stands Ease- B0UR^^; Chxtrch, a Perpendicular building, dedicated to St. Margaret. The south aisle was a nun's chapel, attached to a nunnery founded by John de Bohun, temp. Henry III., of which some remains are extant. An ancient monument in the chancel, with the effigy of a knight carved in oak, commemorates Sir David Owen, son of Owen Tudor, d. 1541-2. The stately tomb of the Montagues will not fail to attract the A'isitor's attention. Upon an altar-tomb adorned with two female figures in robes of state, rises another tomb, where recmnbent lies the effigy of Sir Anthony Browne, Lord Montague, d. 1592, in armour and ruff The female figures repreeent his two wives, Lady Jane and Lady Magdaiea. 166 TROTTON. The pei-petual curacy of Easeboume, valued at £130, is in the patron^e of the Earl of Egmont. Population of the parish, 1076. LODSWORTH (population, 661) Ues about 2 miles north-east of Easeboume, on the left of the road to Petworth. Its ancient church may be interesting. It is said that on the right side stands " an open cloister of timber-work." At TILLINGTON (population, 982), we reach the borders of Petworth Park, A family of the true Saxon name of A.yling3 have held land here upwards of 300 years. The small church is mainly Decorated, and consists of a nave, chancel, south aisle, and " a light and lofty tower, constructed, in 1807, at the sole expense of the Earl of Egmont." There is a brass for William Spencer, d. 1593, " a gentleman of great wisdome, pietie, and discretion," and his wife, d. 1592. Another tablet commemorates William Cox, D.D., precentor of Chichester Cathedral, femp. Charles I., and his wife, who ex- pressed a wish to be buried here, in the hope of a better consort hereafter — " hie, ope melioris consortii, recondi voluit." Lord Leconfield is the patron of the rectory. The road from Midhurst to Petworth is one of great variety, and unusual beauty. It keeps in a broad open valley, whose north boxmdary is a ndge of the greensward, its south, the western range of the South Downs. The river Pother winds through meadow and coppieo on the right, at some points approaching closely to the main road. J From MIDHURST to PETERSFIELD— WEST. [Theroadto Petersfield passes through the -\-illages of Stedham, Trotton, Terwick, and Rogate, before it crosses the boundaries of Hampshire. Stedham Chxtrch, dedicated to St. James, dates from the reign of Edward I. The font is Norman. The tower was built in 1677. Population, 533. TROTTON (population, 484), is situated on the banks of the river Rother. It was originally a portion of the posses- sions of the Camoys family, and Thomas, Lord Camoys, early in the fifteenth century, buUt the bridge over the Rother, and the Church, which he dedicated to St. George. There are two good brasses in the chancel, for Marguerite de Camoys, d. 1310, and on a large altar-tomb for Thomas, Lord Camoys, d. 1419, and his wife, ElUabeth, the widow of Hotspur, and the witty lady Kate, so vividly presented by Shakspeare in the second part of Henry IV. Otway, the dramatist, was bom at Trotton, March 3, 1651. His father was curate of the parish, and it was here that the author of '* Venice Preserved " passed his boyish years, — " "Wild Arun, too, has heard thy strains. And echo, midst my native plains. Been sooth'd by pity's tale"— (Collins). At TERWICK (population, 97) there is nothing to delay the tourist. ROGATE (population, 1117) has a small Norman Church, dedicated to St. Bartholomew. DtJR- yoLD Abbey, in this parish, was foimded for Premonstratensian canons in 1169, by Henry Hoese or Hussey, Lord of Harling. A portion of the monastic edifice is embodied in the modern house. About ^ mile south of the village is Haben BRroQE, and near it, on a knoU above the Rother, are the remains of a moated castle, which may have been erected by one of the Camoys family. In this neighbourhood is Dunford House, the estate presented by his friends and admirers to Richard Cobden, whose " plain imadomed eloquence " contributed largely to the repeal of the Corn Laws, and whose exertions in concluding the recent Commercial Treaty with France have received so large a meed of public approval.] WOOLBEDING LINCHMERE. 167 We now resume our route to Haselmere. WOOLBEDING (population, 320) lies about ^ mile on our left. Its situation on the north bank of the Bother is very delectable. The manorial mansion is " an elegant modem residence," in pleasant grounds. The marble fountain was removed from Cowdrav. The Church is ancient, contains a Norman font, and some coloured glass in the chancel from Mottisfont Priory, which is of some little interest. After crossing the greensward ridge we reach, at 5 miles from Midhurst, the pleasant village of FARNHUEST (population, 768), the centre of much changeful and certainly romantic scenery. Its Early English Church has a small nave, chancel, and shingled spire. The perpetual curacy, valued at £111, is in the patron- age of the Earl of Egmont. Deep in the oak groves of Verdlet (east of the village) are the ruins of an old hunting castle, appendant to the lordship of IMidhurst. It was a quadrangular building, nearly twice as long as broad — that is, 60 feet by 33. It was reduced to its present condition some 30 years ago, when the roads were repaired with its materials ! The spot, however, should be visited for its soH- tary beauty. Nearly 3 nules north-west, on the slope of the hill which here overlooks the boundaries of Surrey and Sussex, stands LINCH- ]\IEEE (population, 339). The Church is utterly uninteresting, but at no considerable distance from it lie the remains of Shul- BREDE Priory, founded by Sir Ealph de Ardenne, early in the thirteenth century, for five Augustinian canons, and suppressed by the Bishop of Chichester in 1525. The " prior's chamber " is still in tolerable preservation, and its walls are covered with rude but characteristic frescoes. One of these mediaBval pictures repre- sents the nativity of the Saviour, and introduces certain animals bearing testimony to that event in Latin phrases, which have a certain resemblance of sound to their natural cries. Thus the cock crows " Christus natus est," the duck quacks " Quando, quando ?" The raven croaks a reply, "Inhac nocte," a cow bellows "Ubi, ubi ?" and the lamb bleats out "Bethlem." The whole is surmounted by the inscription " Ecce virgo concipiet. et pariet filium, et vocabitur nomen ejus Emmanuel" 1 68 CONCLUSION. ^p° llie road now winds along the hills for about 2 milca (from Farnhurst), and crosses the Sussex boundary into Surrey, whence it proceeds to Guildford ; but for a description of the country through which it passes, the tourist must be referred to our " Guide to the History, Antiquities, and Topography of Surrey." Our exploration of Sussex is nearly ended, and that portion of the road from CHICHESTER (whither we now return) to PORTSMOUTH, which lies within this pleasant county, we shall describe, for obvious reasons, under the head of " Hampshire." INDEX. Abbey of Battle, 17 Alboiime, 100 Alfriston, 42 Aniber-stone, the, 39 Amberley, 139 Angmering Park, 132 Architecture, xx Ardingley, 77 Arundel, 133 Ashbumham Place, 61 Ashdown Forest, 73 Balcombe, 90 Bath family seat, 129 Battle, Station, 14; TowTi and Abbev, 17 Barcombe, 66 Beachy Head, 35 Beddingham, 45 Belle-Toute, 36 Bell's Church, xxi Bignor, 159 Billinghurst, 140 Birdham, 144 Birling Gap, 36 Bishopstone, 92 Boar's Head Street, 71 Bodiam, 11 Bognor, 141 Boxgrove, 155 Boxhill, 28 Bramber, 109 Brambletye House, 75 Brede, 9 Brightling, 21 Brighton 80 ; Environ3, S9 Broadhurst, 77 Broadwater, 128 Brooir.ham Hall, 23 Buckhnrst, 72 Burgess Hill Station, 94 Bui-pham, 139 Burton Park, 162 Burwash, 20 Buxted, 68 Caldbeck Hill, 17 C^rbould monumei.t. 13 Catsfield, 14 Chailey, 74 ChieheBter, 145 Chiddingly. Gl Church Bells, xxi ""'ssbury HiE, 128 Ciapham, 129 Climping, 138 Coates, 162 Cobden Estate, 166 Cocking, 164 Coldwaltham, 140 Coneybarrow Park, 74 Cook's Bridge Station, 74 Coombes, 109 C-iwden, 73 Cowdray Park, 1C5 Cowfold, 101 Crawley, 105 Crowborough, 70 Crowhui-st, 14 Cuckfield, 95 Danky Park, 94 Dean, East and "West, 37 ; De\-il's Dyke, 98 Dimensions of Coxmt^, vii Ditchling Beacon, 93 Divisions of County, vii Dripping Well, 7 Duncton, 162 Dunford House, 166 Ear>'ley, 144 Eartham, 158 Easeboume Church, 165 Eastbourne, 33 East Dean, 37 Ecclesboume Glen, 7 Egdean, 121 Eridge Park, 22 Etchingham, 12 Ewhurst, 101 163 170 INDEX. Pairliqht Glen, 7 Falmer, 79 Famhurst, 167 Faygate, 104 Felpham, 142 Ferring, 129 Pindon, 129 Firle Place, 44 Fittle worth, 121 Fletching, 74 FolMiiRton, 42 Ford, 141 Forest Row, 73 Frant, 22 Friston Place, 37 Geology of County, xiii Glynde 44 Goodwood Park, 156 ; Race-Course, 158 Goring, 131 Greatham, 119 Great Sowdens Wood, 10 Grlnstead, East, 78 ; West, 112 Groaning Bridge, 10 Guestling, 23 Haben Bridge, 166 Hailsham, 37 Halnacre House, 156 Hampnett, West, 162 Hamsey, 66 Hangleton, 106 Hardham, 140 Hartfield, 73 Hassock's Gate, 93 Hastings and St. Leonards, 1 Battle of, 15 Hayley, biographer of Cowper ; Resid- ence, 142 HayAvard's Heath Station, 95 Heathfleld, 63 Heighton, 92 Heights of Hills in County, xix Hellingly, 38 Henfield, 100 Highdown Hill, 129 Hills of Sussex, xix Hoathly, East 63 ; West, 77 Holland Park, 63 Hollingsbury Castle, 98 HoUington, 8 Horsham, 102 Horsted-Ke\'nes, 76 Houghton, 139 Ilurstmonceux, 39-40 Hurst-Pier-Point, 94 Hushing Well, Pagham, 143 ICKLESHAM, 27 Ifleld, 104 Iridge Place, 11 Isaac's Hole, 38 Isfield, 67 Itchenor, West, 144 Itchingtield, 115 Jevington, 37 Kenwards, 76 Keymer, 93 Kidbrook, 73 Knepp Park, 113 Lamberhctrst, 13 Langney, 33 Lavant, Mid and East, 13 Laugliton, 61 Leighton's, Archbishop, Residence, Leominster, 133 Lewes, 45-58 Linchmere, 167 Lindfield, 76-96 Littlehampton, 137 Little Harsted, 67 Littlington, 42 Lodsworth, 166 Lover's Seat, 7 Lullington, 42 Malling, 59 Man wood Forest, Ui Maresfield, 70 Mayfield, 64 Michelgrove, 129 Michelham, 37 Midhurst, 164 Mike Mill's Race, 103 More Hall, 94 Muntham Seat, 129 Newhaven, 89 Newick, 74 Newtimber, 100 Norfolk's, Duke of, seat, 129 Nuthurst, 101 Offington, 129 Old Roar, 9 Ore, 8 Otway the dramatist's birthplace, 166 Oiise Viaduct, 96 Ovingdean, 91 Pagham, 143 Parham Park, 117 Patcham, 93 ; Place, 13!: INDEX. 171 Patching, 132 Pan HUl, 76 Pett, 8 Petworth, 121-126 Pevensey, 29 Peverels, Seat of, 101 Piddinghoe, 92 Plump ton, 79 Polegate, 33 Poling, 133 Pope's Oak, West Grinstead, 118 Portslade, 106 Poynings, 100 Preston, 98 ; Viaduct, 80 Preston, near Arundel, 138 Puck Church Parlour, 44 PulboK>ugh, 120 Richmond's, Duke of, seat, 156 Ringmer, 60 Rivers of Sussex, xix Roar Glen, 9 Robertsbridge, 10 Rogate, 166 Rotherfield, 66 Rother River, 166 RottingdeMi, 91 Rudgwick, 140 Rusper, 104 Rustington, 138 Rye, 23 St. Botolph's, 109 St. Leonard's, 1 ; Forest, 103 St. Paneras's Priory, 51 Salehurst, 11 Saxon composition of words of places, xi Seaford, 43 Selsea, 143 Seven Sisters, 37 Sevington, 37 Sheffield Park, 75 Shermanbury, 101 Shoreham, New, 106 Shurlev Chapel, 67 Silver KiU, 11 Singleton, 164 Slaugham, 96 Sompting, 130 Southease Churches, 92 Southover Church, 54 ; House, 59 South wick, 106 Shemfold Place, 22 Stanmer Park, 80 Stedham Church, 166 Steyning, 109 Stoke, 139 Stopham, 121 Storrington, 116 Street Place, 79 SnUington, 116 Sutton, 158 Tabbing, East, 92; "West; 130 Tangmere, 155 Terwick, 166 Three Bridges Statiou, 90 Ticehurst, 12 Tillington, 166 Tortington, 141 Trotton. 166 UCKFIELD, 67 Udimore, 27 Up Waltham, 158 Wad HURST, 21 Wakehm-st Place, 77 Walberton, 141 Waldron, 63 Walshes Manor House, Waltham, Up, 158 Warbleton, 64 Warminghujst, 130 Washington, 115 Weald, the, x West Dean, 163 Westfield, 9 Westham, 33 West Tarring, 130 Wiggonholt, 119 Willingdon, 33 Wilmington, 41 Winchelsea, 23 Wiston, 111 Withvham, 71 Wivelsfield, 94 Woodmancoto, 100 Woolbeding, Hi7 Worth, 97 Worthing, 127 Yapton, 141 \\Cis l\\ \ "iX; uiyu-^ ;gc,rn t .S(Kniptiii>^l'"5^^^^, 'appointment. Patronised hy the Royal Family and the Court. Coaches during the Season between Braemar and Ballater, and Braemar, Blairgowrie, and Dunkeld. Posting in all its Branches. Lawn Tennis. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK UNTIL 1st AUGUST. Mrs. M'Nab has leased from the Earl of Fife, K.T., seven miles of his Lordship's Private Salmon Fishings, which gentlemen staying at the Hotel can have. BRECHIN, FORFARSHIRE. COMMERCIAL HOTEL. Oldest Established First- Class Farnily and Commercial Hotel. IiARGE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT, 'BUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ALEXANDER PIRIE. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. PHILP^S ROYAL HOTEL. RENOVATED and refurnished. Excellent accommodation and beautifully laid out grounds. Charges moderate. Most convenient to break the journey for the Trossachs, Oban, and other parts of the Highlands. An extensive Posting Establishment. Hotel 'Bus attends all Trains, R. PHILP, Froprietor. BRIDGE OF ALLAN BRISTOL. 15 BRIDGE OF ALLAN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, NEAR STIRLING. "DEAUTIFULLY situated and sheltered by the Ochils, on a dry and porous soil. The House is replete with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite of Baths, including Turkish, Russian, Vapour, Spray, &c., all on the most approved principles. Terms, £2 : 12 : 6 per week. Apph cations to be addressed to Mr. M'KAY, House Superintendent. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. CARMICHAEL'S HOTEL. TEMPERANCE. Within easy access of Callander, the Trossachs, and Lochloniond. Terms, including all charges, 45s. per week. Posting in all its Branches. Hotel 'Bus attends all trains. CLIFTON, BRISTOL. THE ST. VINCENT'S ROCKS, Staiuls in the very finest 2)osition in Clifton, close to Suspension Bridge, and is one of the most economical FIRST-CLASS HOTELS IN ENGLAND. Also at irORK HOUSE HOTEIi, BATH. L. ASHCEOFT, Proprietor. 16 BUXTON CALLANDER CARDIFF. THE BUXTON HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND WINTER RESIDENCE (MIALVERN HOUSE) DERBYSHIRE. Overlooking the Pavilion ccnd PttUic Gardens. Central and sheltered situation, close to the celebrated Mineral Baths. The Establishment is heated throughont by Hot "Water, and in every- way made comfortable for Invalids and Visitors. Postal and Telegraphic Address — "Hydro, Buxton." TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 O'CLOCK. FOR TERMS, ETC., APPLY TO THE PROPRIETOR. CALLANDEE. CALEDONIAN TEMPERANCE HOTEL. W BIGGS begs to announce to his Patrons and tlie General Travelling • Community that he has taken a Lease of that Elegant House lately known as Willoughby Terrace as a First-Class Temperance Hotel. Every modern comfort and convenience, at moderate charges. Hot and Cold Baths. Two minutes' walk from Station. Trossachs Coaches pass door daily. W. A. BIGGS, Lessee. CAEDIFF. THE ANGEL HOTEL. fpHIS beautifully-situated first-class House is built on the site of the old Cardifif Anns -*- Hotel and Gardens, — Cardiff Castle, the residence of the Marquis of Bute, being on tlie north side, the Park and Gardens on the south, and commanding uninterrupted vicAvs frona nearly all the rooms. The Hotel has been fitted up and furnished with all that experience can devise to ensure the comfort of Visitors ; it is within seven minutes' walk of all the Railway Stations, and Tram Cars pass every few minutes to all parts of the Town. Magnificent Coffee Room and elegant Suites of Rooms. BLAND & SAVOURS, Proinietors. CHEPSTOW CHESTER CHRISTCHURCH CLIFTON. 1 7 CHEPSTOW. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL A X Old-Establislied First-class Family Hotel, witliin t-wo minutes' walk -^ of the Railway Station, Castle, and Eiver Wye. Ladies' Coffee Room 60 feet by 30. Gentlemen's Coffee and Billiard Rooms. Omnibuses and Carriages meet all trains. The BEATTPORT ARMS HOTEL, Tintern Abbey, conducted by the same Proprietress. Night Porter. E. GARRETT. CHESTER. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Cathedral and other objects of interest. Large Coffee and Reading Rooms ; also Ladies' Drawing Room for the convenience of Ladies and Families. Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the Trains for the use of Visitors to the Hotel Tariff to be had on application. A Night Porter in attendance. DAVID FOSTER, Manager, CHRISTCHURCH. CHRISTCHURCH HOTEL. XEAVLYX'S EAMILY HOTEL. " Charming Views from the Balcony of the Hotel." Opjyosite the old Priory Church and Bidns. Omnibuses to and from the Station. Excellent Boating in the Harbour. GOOD FISHING FOR VISITORS FREE STAYING AT THE HOTEL. CLIFTON. CLIFTON-DOWN HOTEL, Facing the Suspension Bridge. ^pHE popularity of this Hotel has compelled the Proprietors to extend the accommo- -•- dation by the addition of several Bedrooms, Ladies' Drawing Rooms, a Suite of Apartments for Wedding Breakfasts, Ball Suppers, V(//c « 3/f'/(f7f''. Elegant Drawing-Rooms. Reading Room. Large Billiard Room. Comfortable Smoking Room. Ornamental Grounds of Five Acres, extending to the Sea. Eight Lawn Tennis Courts. Table d'Hote Dinner at Separate Tables, daily from 6 to S o'clock. There is attached to the Hotel one of the largest Swimming Baths in England. Also Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. ''pHE attractions of Ilfracombe, and the places of interest in the neighbourhood, point L to it as the natural centre to be chosen by the Tourist who desires to see with comfort all the beauties of Coast and Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There is also easy access into South Devon and Cornwall. The means of communi- cation with Ilfracombe by Rail, Road, and Steamboat are most complete. Tourist Tickets to Ilfracombe for two months are issued during the Section at aZl the principal Railway Stations in England. Address— MANAGER, Ilfracombe, North Devon. THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE. GOOD PUBLIC ROOMS. MODERATE TERMS. Address — The Manager. ILKLEY (iNNELLAN, See p. 46) INVEBARAT. 45 ILKLEY, YOEKSHIRE. MIDDLETON HOTEL, FACING THE MOORS. rnmS Flrst-Class Family Hotel stands in its own extensive grounds on the banks of the picturesque River Wharfe, six miles from the famous Bolton Woods. Spacious Dining, Drawing, and Coffee Rooms. Billiard and Smoke Rooms. Suites of Apartments, &c. TABLE D'HOTE, 6.45-SEPARATE TABLE. TENNIS COUKT3. GOOD STABLING. TARIFF ON APPLICATION TO The Manageress. ILKLEY, NEAR LEEDS. TROUTBECK HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND SANATORIUM. P7iysicio7i— THOMAS SCOTT, M.D., M.R.C.S.E. Proprietor and Manager— JOIN'S DOBSOX. TROUTBECK is beautifully situated on an eminence overlooking tlie Valley of the Wharfe, adjoining the Moor, and close to the Tarn. This Establishment is a hand- some erection in the Elizabethan style, capable of accommodating seventy persons, built expressly for the purpose of carrjing out the Hydropathic System to its fullest extent, and is justly famed for being one of the most compact and comfortable in Ilkley, every attention ha\ang been paid to render it at all times a most attractive residence for Invalids seeking health, as well as for Visitors who desire merely relaxation and change. For full Prospectus, address — JOHN DOBSON, as above. INVERARAY. ST. CATHERINE'S HOTEL, LOCH FYNE, FACING INVERARAY. DONALD SUTHERLAND, Proprietor. GOOD Shooting, Grouse, Black Game, &c. , for Visitors ; also Stream and Locli Fishing. Coaches in connection with Glasgow Steamers start from and stop at St. Catherine's. Posting. Carriages on Hire. Moderate Charg^es. 46 INNELLAN. IN NELL AN. iOfiL motel; T MAITLAXD begs to announce that he has purchased the above large and commodious Hotel, which has lately undergone extensive alterations and additions, in- cluding one of the largest and most handsome Dining- Rooms and Ladies' Sitting-Rooms of any Hotel on the Firth of Clyde ;'also Parlours with Suites of Bedrooms on each flat. The Hotel is within three minutes' walk of the Pier, and being built upon an elevation, commands a Sea view of the surrounding country, including Bute, Arran, The Cum- braes, A3rrshire, Ptenfrewshire, and Dumbartonshire, making the situation one of the finest in Scotland. The grounds of the Hotel being laid out in walks, and interspersed with shrubs and flowers, are quiet and retired for Families. There are also beautiful drives in the ^dcinity. The Dining-Pioom has a large Fernery, with water fountain, which plays daily during the summer, making it cool and refreshing during the hot weather. Steamers call at the Pier nearly every hour for the Highlands and all parts of the Coast. Tourists arriving at the Hotel the night before can have Breakfast at Table d'Hote at 9 a.m., and be in time to join the " loxA " at 10 A.M. for the north, calling at Innellan on her return about 4 P.M. The Cuisine and Wines are of the finest quality. Large Billiard-Room attached. Hot, Cold, and Spray Baths. Horses and Carriages kept for Hire. FAMILIES BOARDED BY THE DAY OR WEEK. *^* //( connection laith Ardlui Hotel, Loch Lomond, and Bridge Street Station Hotel, Glasgow. INVEBARAY {seS CllsO p. 45) INVBRGARRY INVERNESS. 47 INVERARAY. THE GEORGE HOTEL. Under Nero Management. Tourists, Families, and Commercial Gentlemen will find this Hotel most comfortable, combined A\itli Moderate Charges. Special Kates for Commercial Gentlemen and Bicyclists. R. CLARK, Lessee. INVERARAY. THE ARGYLL ARMS HOTEL, Entirely Refurnished, and under new Management. Charges strictly Moderate, Parties hoarded AjnHl to July. Fishing. JOHN CLARK, Proprietor. INVERGARRY. INVERGARRY HOTEL, INVERNESS-SHIRE. Now reopened after being rebuilt and enlarged. Comfortable accommoda- tion and perfect quietness amid very beautiful scenery. Reasonable Charges. Excellent Trout Fishing and use of Boats in Loch Garry Free. Post and Telegraph Office near Hotel. JOHN McINNES, Lessee. INVERNESS. THE HIGHLAND RAILWAY COMPANY'S STATION HOTEL. Frequently Patronised by the Royal Family. A PRIVATE entrance fi-om the platform under cover. The Hotel Porters attend the Trains, and an Omnibus the Caledonian Canal Steamers. POSTING. VERY MODERATE TARIFF. EDWARD CESARI, Manager. 48 INVERNESS. CALEDONIAN HOTEL Facing the Railway Station, and within one minute's walk. THIS well-known first- __ _ class Family Hotel is ■^-^ ._ _ patronised by the Roj-al Family and most of the nobilityof Europe. Having recently added fifty rooms with numerous suites of apartments for families, handsomely refurnished throughout, it is now the largest and best appointed Hotel in Inverness, and universally acknowledged one of the most comfort- able in Scotland. In point of situation this Hotel is the only one overlooking the river S'ess, the magnificent view from the windows being unsur- passed, and extending to upwards of fifty miles of the surrounding strath and mountain scenery of the gi'eat glen of " Caledonia." MAGNIFICENT LADDIES' DRAWING ROOM. An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. The Hotel Porters await the arrival of all Trains. Posting. ALEXAXDER ^MTARLAXE, Proprietor. FIRST- CLASS FAMILY AND GOMiyiERGiAL HOTEL. ^e iunute s INVERNESS. WAVERLEY HOTEL {Late Harcomhe's). Unsurpassed for Situation and Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. TARIFF. Breakfast (Plain) . . Is. 6d. I Tea (Plain) . Is. 6d. Do. (Table d'Hote) . 2s. 6d. | Dinner (Table d'Hote) . 3s. 6d. Bedrooms from Is. Gd. Attendance Is. (id. The Porters of the Hotel attend all Trains, and the Hotel Omnibus runs in connection with the Caledonian Canal Steamers. D. DAVIDSON, Proryrietcyr. INVERNESS {see also y. 50). — isle of wight. 49 THE VICTORIA HOTEL, INVERNESS On th: V,-oiirrm.'hi Ii-rnJing to the Cathedral, and Xess Island^. 'pilE VICTORIA is the best situated Hotel iu Inverness, being the nearest to Canal ^ Steamers, and the only first-class Hotel facing the River and Castle. Omnibus attends Steamers and Trains. JOHN BLACK, Proirrleior. SHANKLIX FOR SUNSHINE. HINTOFS ROYAL SPA HOTEL, The only Eofcl on the Esplanade and facing tJie Sea. ISLE OF WIGHT. A SHELTERED and sequestered nook. Drawing Room, Conservator}', Flowers and ^ Birds. Table d'Hote at 7. Separate Tables. 50 Bed and Sitting Rooms. Billiards free of charge, and constant Amusements for Families residing in the Hotel. Pension From 3 Guineas a week in AYinter. 3^ Guineas D Summer, 50 INVERNESS ISLE OF WIGHT (SC'C ft?SO J9. 49). MACBEAWS IMPERIAL HOTEL, INVERNESS. The most central First-class Hotel in Town, and opposite to the Railway Station. Large Dining f .-^'^^^^^^^^^^^ BUliard Eoom Drawing Eoom. "^"^^^^^^^^^^^^^* " 60 Rooms. The Hotel Omnibus attends all Steamers, and Porters await the arrival of Trains. WINES AXD LIQUORS OF SUPERIOR QUALITY. ISLE OF \YIGHT. DROVER'S MARINE HOTEL, PARADE, WEST COWES. JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR. PLEASANTLY STTUATED, FACING THE SEA. The Comfort of Visitors studied in every vmy. N.B.— Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. ISLE OP WIGHT KHSWiCK KILLARNEY. 51 VENTNOE, I.W. ESPLANADE BOARDING HOUSE, Best position on Esplanade. Completely sheltered from North and East winds, with South aspect overlooking sea. Close to Pier. Good Bathing and Boating. Liberal Table. Terms from 35s. to 3 Guineas per Week. DERWENTWATER LAKE. JEFPER Y'S "Blencathra" Family & Commercial Temperance Hotel (Opposite the Wesleyan Chapel), SOUTHEY STREET, KESWICK. Five Minutes' Walk from the Station. PLEASANTLY situated, commanding extensive ^iews of Mountain Scenery, recently- enlarged and Refurnished. Ladies' Drawing-Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Posting in all its branches. ^ ,^^^ MEETS ALL TRAINS. JOHN H. JEFFERY, Proprietor. LAKES OF KILLARNEY. "THE LAKE HOTEU^ The only Hotel in Killarney situated on the Lake Shore. It is essential to apprise Tourists tliat there is at Killarney but one establishment caUed "THE LAKE HOTEL." IT is situate in the Bay of Casslelougli, on the Eastern Shore of the Lower Lake, in the centre of the varied scenery of the Lake, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station. The waters of the Lake approach the Hall Door, and hence the dis- tinctive title, "The Lake Hotel." Boats and Vehicles of every description supplied at fixed and Moderate Prices. No Gratuities allowed to Drivers, Boatmen, etc., as they are paid ample wages by the Proprietor. The Lake Hotel Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of the Trains. Notice of the Press — From Bradshaiv's "Tourists' Hand-Book." "In point of situation, that of 'The Lake Hotel' is, beyond question, the very best in the Lakes of Killarney. It occupies the centre of the circle described by the great mountain ranges of Mangerton, Tore, Eagle's Nest, Purple Mountain, Glena, Toomies, Dunloe Gap, and Carranthual, and concentrates in one view all that is graceful, picturesque, and sublime in the scenery of Killarney." — Bradshaw's " Tourists' Hand-Book," page 382. 52 KILLA.RNEY KILLIN. KILLARNEY By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTOEIA HOTEL (Open throughout the Year.) SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF THE LOWER LAKE. ' Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by H.R.H. the DUKE OF CONNAUGHT ; by the Royal Families of France, Belgium, &c. ; and Leading American Families. T^HIS Hotel is situated on the shore of the Lower Lake, facing the far-famed Island of Innisfallen, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the Gap of Dunloe. TABLE D'HOTE DUEING THE SEASON. Boarding terms from October to June inclusive. Postal Telegraph Office in the House. JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor. KILLAKNEY LAKE DISTRICT. THE MUCKROSS HOTEL, COMBINED with strictly moderate charges, contains all that is necessary to promote the comfort and convenience of Visitors. It is situated in the most central and beautiful part of the Lake District, and within fifteen minutes' drive of the Railway Station, at which the hotel 'bus attends. Surrounded by pleasant walks and drives, many objects of great interest and beauty, this Hotel will be found a most desiraljle place to spend a few days or weeks. Angling.— The Proprietor has arranged for the use of Visitors good Salmon Fish- ing. There is also good Salmon and Trout Fishing on the lakes, which are Free, and Anglers can have boats from the Proprietor without charge. Tariff and other particulars on application. Please be particular to observe the 'bus you enter bears the name, THE MUCK- ROSS HOTEL. LocH-TAY, KILLIN HOTEL, Perthshire. By Callander and Oban Railway, thence per New Branch Railway to Killin in connection with Loch Tay Steamers. This Hotel is within two minutes' walk of the Railway Station, situated on the banks of the Lochay, at the head of Loch Tay, amongst some of the finest scenery in Scotland. A recently constructed road has now opened for the first time to Tourists, by Coach " GLENLOCHAY," the finest of the Perthshire Glens. Winding through the gentler beauties of its opening on Loch Tay, tlie traveller speedily reaches the mystic pass of the " Collig," which for sounding waterfall, frowning precipice, and pine-clad hills, equals, if it does not excel, the far-famed Trossachs. Farther onward, girt in by the mountain ridges of Glen Dochart, Glen Lochay, and Glen Lyon, the wild chaos forming the ancient 1-orest of Mamlorn, and lying under the shadow of the mightj- Ben Hallum, there is found a scene of the most exquisite pastoral loveliness— " The silence that is in the starry sky. The sleep that is among the lonely hills." Among the many places of interest are Finlarig Castle, Mausoleum of the Breadalbane Family, Jnchbuie, the Burial Place of the Clan M'Nab. English Church. Post and Telegraph Office close by. Lawn Tennis. Trout Fishing and Pleasure Boats FREE OF CHARGE. Posting establishment complete. A Coach will leave Killin Hotel daily for Glen Lochay, at 11.50 a.m., returning for North and SoutI Trains :ind Steamers. ALEXANDKK STU.VRT, Proprietor. KINGSTOWN KIRKWALL — LEAMINGTON. 53 KINGSTOWN (CO. DUBLIN). THE ROYAL MARINE HOTEL, KINGSTOWN. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL Faces Dublin Bay and Kingstown Harbour. Two minutes from Royal Mail Packet Pier. TWELVE MINUTES FROM DUBLIN BY RAIL. LUGGAGE PER MAIL SHOULD BE LABELLED "KINGSTOWN." KIRKWALL— OEKNEY ISLES. THE KIRKWALL HOTEL. WILLIAM DUNNET, Proprietor, begs to intimate that the Hotel has been recently * '' enlarged, thus affording additional accommodation, comprising Coffee, Commercial, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Private Parlours, with comfortable, well-aired, and spacious Bedrooms. The Pleasure Grounds, adjoining the Hotel, are beautifully adorned with large trees, which shade the Bowling, Croquet, and Quoit Greens. The Hotel is situated within a few minutes' walk of the Pier, and in close proximity to the Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. Conveyances wait arrival of Daily Mail Steamer from Thurso. Gentlemen stajing at this Hotel may enjoy Shooting and Fishing free of charge. Posting in all its departments. LEAMINGTON. ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA. MANOR HOUSE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS for Families and Gentlemen. Surrounded by its most magnificently laid-out grounds, sloping to the River Leam, facing the Pump-Room Gardens, and in close proximity to both Railway Stations— thus making it one of the prettiest places of resort in the Kingdom. The Hotel has been considerably enlarged, furnished with all modern comforts, possesses the largest and handsomest Royal Assembly Room in the town. French Cuisine. Table d'Hote at Seven o'clock. Prices moderate. POSTING-, &e. SPLENDID NEW BOXES FOR HUNTING. EGBERT LAMPLOUGH, Proprietor (Late Proprietor of the TT^iV? Hart Hotel, Harrogate). 54 LIVERPOOL LI ANDUDNO LLANGOLLEN LOCH AWE. LIVERPOOL. 3^1 SHAFTESBURY TEMPERANCE HOTEL, MOUNT PLEASANT. About Three Minutes' Walk from CentroA and Lime Street Stations. ^g r\MNIBUSES for the Landing Stage j*-^ ^- and all parts of the City either ]iass the door or near the Hotel. Over 100 Rooms. Cleanliness, Comfort, and Economy. Night Porter. LLANDUDNO. THE IMPERIAL FAMILY HOTEL. (centre of bay.) IN consequence of tlie Extensive Patronage which this Hotel has enjoyed since it was opened in 1872, it has been found necessary to ADD A New Wing. Apartments en suits ELEGANT BILLIARD SALOON FOR THREE TABLES. An Omnibus attends all Trains. Excellent Stabling. Tariff on Application. JOHN CHANTREY, Projrrietor. LLANGOLLEN. EDWARDS' HAND HOTEL. Uneqimllecl for the Beauty of its Situation on the Banks of tJie Dee. Several Bedrooms and Sitting Rooms have been added to the House to suit the requirements of Families visiting this delightful Neighbourhood. TABLE D'HOTE, 6.30. BILLIARDS. Omnibuses from this Hotel meet all Trains. THE LOCH AWE AND DALMALLY HOTELS, ARGYLLSHIRE. THE scenery round these well-known Hotels is certainly the finest in the Highlands. Situations unsurpassed. The great centres for tourists. Numerous delightCul Excursions by coach, rail, and steamer. Cajntal Salmon and Trout Fishiug, Boating, Tennis, Billiards, etc. Visitors to Exhibition will find these Hotels central for numerous excursions. DUNCAN FEASEE, Proprietor. LOCH AWE LOCH EARN. 55 LOCH AWE. FREE TROUT, SALMON, AND SALMO-FEROX FISHING ON LOCH AWE. TAYCREGGAN HOTEL, NORTH PORTSONACHAN. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Anglers, close to Loch Awe at Portsonachan, half an hour's sail from Loch Awe Station, and one hour's drive from Tavnuilt Station. Replete with every convenience. Is the nearest First-class Hotel to' Loch Awe, Loch Avich, Loch Xant, and ten other Hill Lochs, all Free to Visitors and mostly within easy walking distance, and some of which have been stocked with Lr^ch Leven Trout, and can only be fished by stajing at this Hotel. All Steamers call at the Hotel Pier. A Ccach in connection with the Steamer " Coiuitess of Breadalbane" leaves Hotel daily in the season, running through Glen Xant. Passengers booked for Tay- nuilt, Oban, Head of Loch Etive, and Loch Awe, via Pass of Brander. Baths. Good Boats. Best Fishing Tackle. Post Horses. Families Boarded. Lawn Tennis. Telegraph Address— Tayckeggan, Loch Awe. A. & A. 3IUXR0. POETSONACHAN HOTEL (LOCH AWE, ARGYLLSHIRE, N.B.), T S beautifully situated (half an hour's sail from Loch Awe Station), and is the^best -•- angling station on the Lake. The Hotel was lately rebuilt, and is now replete with every comfort. The fishing, which is first class, is free. Commodious boats and experienced boatmen always avail- able. The Hotel Steamer plj-s three times daily to Station. Xumerous daily excursions from Hotel by Coach and St&amer. Hotel Tariff free on application. THOMAS CAMEROX, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address— "Portsonachan Hotel, Loch Awe." DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL, ST. FILLANS, BY CRIEFF. npHIS Xew and Commodious Hotel, beautifully situated at the foot of Locheam, i.=3 -•- well adapted for Famdies and Toai'ists. St. Fillans is one of the loveliest places to be met with anywhere. Boats for Fishing and Carruiges for Hire, pass daily during the summer months. Caledonian Coaches DAVIE. 56 LOCH EARN HEAD LOCH FYNE LOCH LOMOND. LOCH EARN HEAD. LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL, BALQUHIDDER, PERTHSHIRE. 12 miles by rail from Callander. {Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited hy the Queen.) '^pHIS Hotel, which has been long established, has excellent accommodation for Families and Tourists, with every comfort and quiet, lies high and dry, and charmingly sheltered at the foot of the "Wild Glen Ogle (the Kyber Pass). It commands fine views of the surrounding Hills and Loch, the old Castle of Glenample, the scenery of the Legend of Montrose, in the neighbouijiood of Ben Voirlich, Rob Roy's Grave, Loch Voil, Loch Doine, and Loch Lubnaig, with many fine drives and walks. Posting and Carriages. Boats for Fishing and RoNving free. A 'Bus to and from the Hotel for the Trains dui-ing Summer. Coaclies to and from Crieff daily In Summer. R. DAYTON. The Callander and Oban Railway is now open. Parties breaking the journey here can proceed next morning with greater comfort. LOCH FYNE. CAIRNDOW HOTEL, HEAD OP LOCH FYNE. PARTIES staying at the Hotel can have excellent Salmon and Trout Fishing, free of charge, on the River Kinglass and Loch Restal. See pages 188 and 184 of The Sjjortsman' s and Tourist's Guide. The Tarbet, Inveraray, and Oban Coaches pass the Hotel daily during the season. HORSES AND CARRIAGES ON HIRE. WILLIAM JONES, Proprietor. LOCH LOMOND. BALLOGH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCH LOMOND. THE above Hotel is beautifully situated at the foot of the " Queen of Scottish Lakes," and within two minutes' walk of the Railway Station. Visitors will find every com- fort, combined with moderate charges. First-class Billiard Room, Smoking Room, Hot and Cold Baths, &c. Parties purposing to proceed by first Steamer up Loch Lomond would do well to arrive at the Hotel the pre%nous evening. Visitors staying at the Hotel have the pri%ilege of walking through the Grounds and Flower Gardens of Mr. Campbell of Tullichewan Castle, and also permission to visit " Mount Misery," which commands 17 miles of the most beautiful portion of Loch- lomond— 23 islands being comprised in the ^^ew. Trout and Salmon Fishing. Posting in all its branches. Boats for the Lake. Mrs. M'DOUGALL, Proprietrix. LOCH LOMOND. 57 LOCH LOMOND. INVERSNAID HOTEL. nnHIS Hotel is centrally situated in the Scottish Lake District amidst -•- unrivalled scenery. In the neighbourhood are many places of interest, such as Eob Roy's Cave, the islands on Loch Lomond, on some of which are the remains of feudal strongholds, and within a few yards of the Hotel, Inversnaid Falls, rendered famous by "Wordsworth in his poem "To a Highland Girl." Coaches to and from Loch Katrine in connection with all the sailings of the steamer there to and from the Trossachs. LAWN TENNIS. BOATS. BILLIARDS, &c. TROUT FISHING ON THE LOCH FREE. Parties Boarded by Wed: or Month, excc^jt in August. ROBERT BLAIR, Proprietrrr. LOCH LOMOND. TARBET HOTEL q"^HIS Hotel has lately undergone considerable alterations with extensive additions, J- comprising Billiard Room, Sitting Rooms, Ladies' Drawing Rooms and Bed- r..oms, &c. Croquet. Lawn Tennis. A. H. MACPHERSON, Proprietor. 58 LOCH np:sr. DALLAS'S DRUMNADEQCHIT HOTEL, GLEX URQUHART, IXVERNESS-SHIEE. THIS old-established aud well-known Hotel has been entirely rebuilt on a first-class scale, having now Thirty large Bedrooms, splendid Coffee and Drawing Rooms, besides Parlours, Smoking Room, Bath Room, and all conveniences. The House was specially built for an Hotel, and is newly and elegantly furnished in the most modern style, and Families and Visitors are now afforded first-class accommodation, combined with comfort and quiet, at moderate charges. The Walks and Drives around Drumnadrochit are unrivalled for beauty, variety, and extent, while in the immediate vicinity is scenery made famous by Phillips, Millais, Shirley Brooks, John Bright, and others. Within convenient distances are Urquliai-t Castle, Falls of Dhivach, Dog Falls, and the famous Glen Affric and Stiathglass. Visitors staying at the Hotel have liberty to fish in Loch Ness, and other Fishing can be had in the neighbouvhood. Posting complete in all Departments, and Conveyances, on Intimation, will meet all Steamers. LETTERS AND TELEGRAMS CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO. J. SIMPSON, Lessee, Drummxlroehit Post and Telegraph Office ^cithiii Two Miniites' valk of Hotel MR. MACBRAYNE'S STEAMERS CALL AT TEMPLE PIER DAILY. LOCH LONG — LONDON. 59 LOCH LONG. ARROCHAR HOTEL, AEROCHAR, HEAD OF LOCH LONG. One and a half miles from Tarhet {Loch Lomond). TTNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. Newly and elegantly fvirnished. Several Steamers ^ call daily at Hotel Pier from Glasgow, etc. Coaches in connection with Inveraray, Dalmally, and Oban during the season. 'Bus meets arrival of all Loch Lomond Steamers at Tarbet Pier. Families, Tourists, and Artists will find this Hotel an excellent marine residence and a convenient centre for touring to the Trossachs and Western Highlands. Good Sea-Pishing and Boating. Posting. Charges Moderate. P. STALKER, Lessee. ARMFIELD'S SOUTH PLACE HOTEL, FL^SBURY, LONDON, E.C., IS Unsurpassed for its Central Position and Easy Access from all parts of the Kingdom and Metropolis. With a high reputation for over thirty years. It has been recently enlarged, decorated, and refurnished, and now affords increased efficiency with modern comforts at a moderate tariff, as a First-class Temperance Hotel. The Apartments, which are cheerful and comfortably furnished, con- sist of Coffee, Commercial, and Private Sitting Rooms, with about Seventy well-appointed and Airy 13edrooms. Ladies' Drawing Room select. Well-ventilated Smoking and Billiard Rooms, for the use of Visitors, furnished by Burroughes & Watts. Telephone 140. A Night Porter. Telegraph Armfield's, London. Terms, &c. , per return of post on application to the Proprietors, JOSEPH ARMFIELD & SON. Three minutes' walk from Broad Street, Liverx>ool Street, and Moor gate Statimis. LONDON. RESIDENTIAL CLUB— THRALE HALL, STREATHAM, S.W., LONDON'S healthiest suburb, with purest, bracing, yet balmy, air. Board and residence with comfort and elegance on very moderate terms by the day or week. Noble Reception, Reading, Smoking, Billiard, ' and Recreation Rooms. Corridors warmed in winter. Hotel Breakfast, 7.h5 till 10 a.m. Hot Luncheon, 1 p.m. Tea, lt.30, and unequalled " Tahle d'lISte" (6 or 7 courses) at 7 p.m. Enjoyable Entertainments, Frequent Dances, and Asphalte Tennis Court, 60 LONDON. LONDON. HOTELS, I „ ^ ^^^ ,^^-r-r-.T^,« ITurkishBathsJ LONDON & : FAULKNER S Newgate St. ! BRIGHTON.; LONDON ESTABLISHMENTS. ^ Hastings. | CITY CENTRAL HOTEL, NEWGATE ST., asd PANYER ALLEY. FAULKNER'S HOTEL, YILLIERS ST., STRAND. GARDEN HOTEL, MIDDLE ST., BRIGHTON LARGE GARDEN (50 Yards from the Sea). HOME COMFORTS AND MODERATE CHARGES. Tariff on application at 50 Neicgate Street a7id at any Branch in London or Country. HAIE-CUTTING SALOONS, THE MOST COMPLETE IX LONDON. BATHS (ALL KINDS), UVATORIES, AND DRESSING-ROOMS. HOSIERY, AND GENERAL OUTFITTING. Hats, Brushes, Cutlery, Bags, Perfumery, etc., etc. 50 Newgate St., and 3, 4, and 5 Panyer Alley, E.G. ; 26 and 27 Villiers St., alongside Charing Cross Station ; White Rock, Hastings, Little Bridge St., Ludgate Hill ; Fen- church St. Railway Station ; The Colonnade, Ramsgate Sands ; National Rifle Associa- tion, Wimbledon ; and at ^Liverpool St. Station, G. E. Railway ; 'Broad St. Station, N. L. Railway ; ^Waterloo Station, L. and S. W. Railway ; St. Pancras, and all Prin- cipal Stations on the Midland and North Staffordshire Railways. * No baths at these. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE HOTEL, 12 BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHOUT, LONDON, E.G. H, G. CHALKLEY, Proprietor. T. H. CHALKLEY, Manager. A First-Class Temperance Hotel. VISITORS to London will find this one of the most central positions from which, whether by Rail, Omnibus, or Tram, they can reach all parts. The Hotel is fitted with every modern improvement. The Public Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms are handsomely furnished, and the Bedrooms will be found most comfortable. Every attention paid to Visitors. Reduced Charges are made during the Winter Months, and liberal arrangements made with those staying a lengthened period. A Porter is in attendance all night. For Tariff of Ckarges apply to the Manager. — Telegraphic Address. "Exterior, London." VISITORS TO LON DON. TEANTER'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 7, 8, 9 BRIDGEWATER SQUARE, BARBICAN, LONDON, E.G. MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. Close to Aldersgate Street, Metropolitan Railway Station, and near St. Paul's Cathedral and General Post Oflice. Homelike, Highly Respectable, and Quiet. Clean and well Ventilated Bedroome, 1b. ed. to 2s. 6d. Breakfast or Tea from Is. to Is. 9d. NO charge for attendance. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ESTABLISHED 1859. Private, Family, and Commercial, Recently Enlarged. Visitors' Guide to LoKDoy, Regd.— What to see, and How to see it in a Week ; and Taiiff Card free on application to G. T. S, TRANTER, Proprietor. LONDON. 61 L i JEWELLERS AND SILVERSMITHS. COVENTRY STREET, LONDON. N.B.-WEDDING, BIRTHDAY, AND COMPLIMENTARY PRESENTS. S. FISHER, 188 STRAND. AND THE BEST BAG EVER INVENTED FOR CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING LIGHT, STEOXG, SECURE. CaUdogues Post Fr(f\ 015 LONDON LONDONDERRY. THE SARACEN'S HEAD HOTEL, SNOW HILL, HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E.G. Opposite the Snow Hill Station of the L. C. 6: D. Railway. FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. Omnibus and Railway communication with all parts of London immediately avail- able. One of the most conveniently situated Hotels in the City. M. H. WOODHILL, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address— " WOODHILL, LONDON." Special Appointment ^^^^^SSi^sy and TO '''•ttdtfWplB^^fe&i^ jj_ j^ U_ The Prince of Wales TURKEY, PERSIAN, & INDIAN CARPETS. IMPORTED BY THOS. BONTOB & CO., late WATSON, BONTOR, & COMPANY, Carpet Manufacturers to the Royal Family, 35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W. Exhibition Medals, 1851, 1862; Dublin, 1865; and Amsterdam, 1883. Superior Brussels, Velvet, Saxony, and all other Carpets in the Newest Desiens. JURY'S HOTEL, LONDONDERRY. TOURISTS, Families, and Commercial Gentlemen visiting the North of Ireland will find the above Hotel replete \nth every accommodation, combined with moderate charges. A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the arrival aiid departiore of all Trains and Steamers. GEORGE J. JURY, Proprietor. LYXTOX MALVERN. 63 LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised ly E.R.E. the Prince of JVales and other Memhers of the Royal Family. The finest sea and land views in the world. THIS Hotel, standing in its own ornamental grounds of about 12 acres, 500 feet above the level of the sea, overlooking the Bristol Channel, commands uninter- rupted views of the Valleys of the East and West Lynn, Lynn Cliff, Brendon and Countisbury Hills, The Tors, the Village of Lynmouth, the Foreland, the Welsh Coast, and the far-famed Valley of Rocks. Ha\ang been under the management of the present Proprietor nearly 50 years, the Hotel has been recently and extensively enlarged to meet the requirements of modem society, and combines the comforts of a private house with the conveniences of a first-class Hotel. Elegant Suites of Private Apartments. New and commodious Table d'Hote, Coffee Room, and Ladies' Drawing Room, facing the sea. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. In connection with this Hotel, and in the same delightful grounds, is a PRIVATE HOTEL and BOARDING HOUSE, which offers excellent accommodation for Families visiting this charming neighbourhood. New and convenient Stables. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. Coaches in the Season to Bfracomhe, Mineliead, and Barnstaple. THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS EXMOOR PONIES FOR SALE. LYNTON, NOETH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL (ESTABLISHED 1800). In every respect First-Class and Comjjlete. T^ELIGHTFULLY situated in extensive ornamental Grounds 500 feet above the level ■^ of the Sea, with a full view of it, also the Foreland, the Torrs, the valleys of the L}-nns, (fee. &c. Elegant Suites of Apartments, also Spacious Table d'H6te and Coffee Rooms, Reading Rooms, and Ladies' Drawing Room. The most modem conveniences to secure home comforts, good fare, and prompt attention. Handsomely-fitted Billiard Room open during the Season for Residents in the Hot€l only. CHARGES MODERATE. TARIFF FORWARDED ON APPLICATION. Post Horses and Carriages. JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. MALYEKN. THE ABBEY HOTEL, IX EXCELLENT SITUATION. MOST COMFOETABLE FAMILY HOTEL. Coffee-Room, Reading-Room, and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table d'Hote during the Season. L. ARCHER, Proprietor. Miss SCHNEIDER, Manager. 64 MALVERN MANCHESTER MATLOCK BATH. MALVERN. THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL {Patronised hj ths Royal Family). " rpHE first time we visited ^Malvern, when sho\vn into an upper -L chamber in the 'Foley Arms,' we were literally taken aback. We can hardly say more than that the prospect struck us as far finer than from the terrace over the Thames at Richmond, etc., etc." — Extract from. article hi ^^ Blaxkicood.,'' August 188Jf. CofFee-Room and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. EDWARD ARCHER, ProjyrUtor. Miss YOUNGER, Manager. MAInTHESTER. GRAND HOTEL COMPANY OF MANCHESTER, LIMITED. AYTOUN STREET. PORTLAND STREET. The BpM Hotel in the City. Every modern convenience. Lift. First-Class Cuisine ami Cellar. F. MOERSCHELL, J/«/i^(/<;/-. MANCHESTER. KNOWSLEY HOTEL, CHEETHAM HILL EGAD {Only a fcvj Minutes' vxdk froni Victoria Railwa.y Station), "XXTILL be found to possess all home comforts, and the Finest Wines, ' ' Oldest Spirits, and Brightest Beer, all at most moderate charges. Parties staying a lengthened Period may make Special Terms. Omnibuses to all parts of the City pass the door every few minutes, R. KXOX, Manager. MATLOCK BATH. THE ROYAL HOTEL (LATE OLD BATH . VISITORS to thi.s Romantic County .should make Matlock Bath their Headquarters. Delightful walks and drives to all places of interest. Central and charming. This Hotel adjoins the pavilion and gardens. Newly furnished and fitted with all modern improvements. Table d'hote. Lawn Tennis, Billiards, Fishing, Large Tepid Swimming Bath, free of charge. Omnibus meets all Trains. Tariff on application to .T. A. HTNTOX, hifr uf Castle Manr, hie of Man. MATLOCK MELROSE. 65 MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE. TYACK'S NEW BATH HOTEU Recently enlarged and newly furnished, adjoining the Pavilion Grounds. It affords every comfort and convenience of a first-class modern Hotel, and has Pleasure Grounds extending to 9 acres, commanding some of the finest views of Derbyshire. It has been long patronised by the best English and American Families^ Private Sitting Rooms, Drawing Room, Smoke, and Billiard Rooms A large Swimming Batli, Hot and Cold Baths. LaAvn Tennis, Fisliing. Balls weekly during the Season. Posting, Stabling. 'BUS MEETS EACH TRAIN. Terms Strictly Moderate, for which apply to the Proprietor, T. TYACK. Places of intere.st witliin easy reacli daily by Rail or Coach : — Buxton, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Castleton, Dovedale, Wingfiehl ]\Ianor, Hardwick Hall. MELROSE. THE WAVERLEY HYDROPATHIC. QNE horn' fioin Edinburgh, one and a half from Carlisle. Terms from £2 : 2s. ])ei- week. Summer, from £2 : 9s. Billiards, Bowling, Lawn Tennis, Trout Fishing in Tweed included. First-class Table. For Prospectus ctpply to the Manager. MELROSE, i THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY GATE, AND GEORGE AND ABBOTSPORD HOTEL, noU ^^s^^'r. HIGH STREET, MELROSE. THE oiih' first-class Hotels in Melrose, both overlooking the. ruins, and only 2 miuutes' walk from the Kaihvay Station. The Hotel 'Buses attend all Trains. First-class Horses and Carriages for Abbotsford, Dry burgh, ete., can be had at both establish- ments. G. HAMILTON, Pkoprietor. E 66 MOFFAT MONMOUTH. MOFFAT SPA. ANNANDALB AEMS HOTEL, '^J'^OURISTS and Visitur.s to this famou.s Watering-Place will lind at the Axxandale -•- Akm.'j lirst -class accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges. Commercial Gentlernen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. 'Buses meet the Trains at Moflat Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along the route, passing "Craigieburu Wood," Bodesbeck, Grey Mare's Tail— to St. Marj's Loch, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in connection vdth a Coach to Selkirk. OMNIBUSES PLY TO THE WELL EVERY MORNING. Carriages of all kinds. Job and Post Horses on Hire. EGBERT NORRIS, Proprietor. MONMOUTH. VALLEY OF THE WYE. THE KING'S HEAD HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. THIS old-established Hotel, situate in Agincourt Square, the centre of the town, is replete with every accommodation for Families and Tourists, at Moderate Charges. A SPACIOUS LADIES' COFFEE ROOM, AND A SUPERIOR BILLIARD ROOM. An Omnibus meets every Train. JOHN THOMAS, Proprietor. MONMOUTH. OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, AGINCOUKT SQUARE, MONMOUTH. Close to the King's Head Hotel and Beaufort Arms Hotel. ANTIQUE PORCELAINS. ANTIQUE PLATE. ANTIQUE FURNITURE. Collector.— HENRY T. SLMxMONDS. A NAIRN OBAN. 67 NAIRN. ROTAL MARINE HOTEL {Fifteen miles South of Inverness). ' Patronised by the Koyal Family. THE "BRIGHTON OF THE NORTH." FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Tourists at Moderate Rates. The House was specially built for an Hotel, and has undergone a thor- ough and extensive Repair, and is newly and elegantly Furnished in the most modem style, and contains numerous Suites of Private Rooms, including Ladies' and Gentlemen's Dining Saloon, with Drawing Room ; also Smoking Room, Billiard Room, &c. Over 70 Beds can be made up. The Climate of Nairn is well known to be the best in Scotland, and is becoming yearly more and more a favourite resort of the Upper Classes and Tourists from all parts of the Kingdom. It is also in high repute with the leading Physicians of the country, who invariably recommend their patients in increasing numbers to secure the benefits of the dry and bracing air of the district. Superior Hot and Cold Salt Water Baths in the Hotel, supplied by a powerful Steam Engine direct from the sea. An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all trains. Posting in all its branches will be done in first-class style, and will be carefully attended to. JOHN MACDONALD, Proprietor (Late Lessee of the Station Hotel, Inverness). OBAN. COLUMBA HOTEL. ON THE ESPLANADE. FIRST CLASS. NEAREST THE STEAMBOAT PIER, AND ONLY .THREE MINUTES' WALK FROM RAILWAY STATION. 'BUS NOT REQUIRED. D. C. MA.CMILLAX, Lessee. I G8 OBAN, OBAN, THE ALEXANDRA FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, ON THE ESPLANADE, OBAN. Stands within its own Grounds, and commands the Finest View in Oban. NEW BILLIARD ROOM. 'BUS FREE OF CHARGE. L. G. M^ARTHUR, Proprietor. OBAN, 60 OBAN. THE STATION HOTEL. FIRST CLASS. .^.NEAREST RAILWAY STATION AND PIER. VIEWS UNSURPASSED. C. CAMPBELL, Propricfrix 70 OBAN. KING'S aTmS hotel WAS a commanding sea view ; is adjacent to the railway station and steamboat wliaif; and jiossesses home comforts, comhined with noderate charges. Ladies' Draavixg Room. Billiard, Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Parties boarded on moderate terms. Tariff on application. Table cVHote daily. /^Gots waits the arrival of Trains and Steamers. Boat kept for fishing. ALEX. MTAVISH, Proprietor. OBAN. ANGUS'S IMPEHIAL HOTEL. Immediately opposite the Steamboat Pier. OBAX. BLACK'S ARGYLL HOTEL (Under New Management.) Situated on the Esplanade close to the Steamboat Pier. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. D. MACDOXALD {Late of Hie Alexa/adra Hotel), rroprietor. OBAN. SUTHERLAND'S GREAT WESTERN HOTEL LARGEST AXD LEADIXG HOTEL IX THE WEST HIGHLANDS. An Omnihus attends the arrival and departure of Trains and Steamers. Visitors conveyed to and from the Hotel free of Charge. OBAN OXFORD. 71 OBAX. VICTORIA HOTEL, FiRST-ClASS TeMPERAN'CE — THE ONLY HlGH-CLASS IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO Railway Station, Pier, and Post Office. ^ Bedrooms Is. 6d. and 2.9. Teas and Breakfasts Is, Qd. and 2s. Dinners, d la carte, 2s. 9d. Eegistered telegraphic adclreas, ** jMACLACHLAN " Oban. OXFORD. ; RANDOLPH HOTEL, IN THE centre OF THE CITY. nPHE only modern built Hotel in Oxford, close to the Colleges and Public Buildings, and commanding a fine open view down Beaumont Street, St. Giles's Street, and Magdalen Street, opposite The Martyrs' Memorial. Handsome Suites of Apartments. Dravnncj Room, Billiard Booms, and every modern comfort and convenience. Excellent Wines imported direct from abroad. CHARGES MODERATE. GOOD stabling AND LOOSE BOXES. Visitors at this Hotel will meet with every attention and consideration. ADDRESS— THE MANAGER. .: OXFORD. THE CLARENDON HOTEL. PATRONISED by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, H.R.H. Prince Leopold, Their Imperial Majesties The Emperor and Empress of Brazil, The Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte. Situate in the most central part of the city, near the principal Colleges and places of interest to Visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find the Hotel replete with every comfort. SPACIOUS COFFEE AND BILLIARD ROOMS. Privatk Sitting and Bedrooms (en suite). Ladies' Coffee Room. Guides always in Attendance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Bost Horses. Good StaUincj and commodious Coach Borises. JOHN P. ATTWOOD, ProprUtor. 72 OXFORD (PENSARN, m! ]-). 73) PKXZANOE. OXFORD. THE MITRE HOTEL, Situated in the centre of the finest Street in Europe, is one of the most ECONOMICAL First- Class Hotels in the Kinodom. PENZANCE QUEEN'S HOTEL. ON THE ESPLANADE. THIS Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of whirh overlook the sea. It is the principal and largest in Penzance. Yov Families, Ladies, and Gentlemen only. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Apartments en suite. Ladies' Dra^vlng, Reading, and Coffee Rooms, Billiard and Smoking Rooms, Hot an.i Cold Baths. Table d'Hote. ____^ An Omnibus meets every Train. " POSTING TN ALL ITS .BRANCHES. ALEX.^'H. HORA, Proprietor. PENZANCE PENSARN PERTH. 7 3 PENZANCE. MOUNT'S BAY HOTEL, ON THE ESPLANADE. THIS old-established Hotel commands a better view of Mount's Bay than any other Hotel in Penzance, as all the \vindows in the front and at side have an Uninterrupted and unsurpassed View of all th€ Bay and. St. Michael's Mount. The Hotel is heated with Hot Water. Hot and Cold Baths. Choice "Wines, etc. Post Horses and Carriages. TABLE D'HOTE. PORTER MEETS EACH TRAIN. CHARGES MODERATE. Terms and View on Application. MRS. LAVIN, Proprietress. PEXSAEX. CAMBRIAN HOTEL, ABERGELE. Close to the rutiltran Station, Beoch, and Lawn Teams Grounds. It i.s conveniently situated for tlie daily "Welsh Circular Tours. ROBERT HUMPHREYS, Propiietor. B I L L I A R PS. PERTH. HENET'S QUEEFS HOTEL Opposite the General Railway Station. {OVEIi THE BItlDGE.) THAT IS THE HOUSE TO GO TO. PERTH. POPLE'S ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL (Opposite the General Station). Patronised by their Poyal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince and Princess Christian, Duke of Connaught, and other Members of the Royal Family, and the leading Nobility of the Kingdom. THIS Family Hotel has long stood pre-eminent ; and the Proprietor would remark that the same care and unremitting attention, which are universally acknowledged by all who have patronised him, it will be his constant study to continue. Telegraphic Address — Pople, Perth. 74 PERTTT PLYMOUTH TORT P.ANNATYNE PITLOCHRIE. V y p 1^ H SALUTATION HOTEL. AT this old-established and well-known Hotel (under new management) Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Families will find comfort and attention, combined with strictly moderate charges. Special terms for C^'clists. BILLIARD ROOM WITH FIRST CLASS TABLES. HOTEL 'BUS AWAITS THE ARRIVAL OF TRAINS. Orders hy Letter or Telegram receive 'prorupt aftention. W. CARGILL, Proprietor. PLYMOUTH. GRAND HOTEL. ■-'"• (ON THE HOE.) THE ONLY HOTEL WITH SEA VIEW. Facing Sound, Breakwater, Eddystone. MAIL STEAMERS ANCHOR IN SIGHT. Public Jioa/ns and Sitting Rooms, vAth Bcdconies. JAMES BOHX, Proprietor. KYLES OF BUTE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, PORT BAXXATYXE, BUTE, X.P.. UNRIVALLED as a Marine Residence. Situated 200 feet above the level of the Sea, comiiianding magnificent view of Loch Striven and the entrance to the Far Famed Kyles of Bute. Sheltered Walks within Policies. Every Home Comfort. Unsur- passed Salt, Fresh Water, and Turkish Baths. Climate during Winter free from fogs, and as inild as the South of England and Channel Islands. Consulting Physician —Dr. ANDREW J. HALL. Ta:u1)j Sv.perintendent.— Miss MALCOLM. Terms on A.pplication. ATHOLE HYDROPATHIC. PITLOCHRIE, PERTHSHIRE. THIS Palatial Establislimeut, after extensive alterations, extension of Tennis Courts, kc, will be reopened for the reception of Visitors on the 19th May, UNDER THE PERSONAL SUPERVISION OF THE Proprietor, W. MACDONALD, Royal Refreshment Rooms, Perth Station, WHO WILL FORWARD PROSPECTUSES ON APPLICATION. PITI.nCFIRIE. 75 PITLOCHRIE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. PARTIES wishing to see the magnificent Scenery in this part of the Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions have been made) most convenient, for in One Drive they can visit the Falls of Tummel, the Queen's View of Loch Tummel ; The Par - Famed Pass of Killiecrankie ; Glen Tilt ; The Falls of Bruar, &c. Pitlochrie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spital of Glen- shee and Braemar ; and to Taymouth Castle and Kinloch-Eannoch, by Tummel Bridge. Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on the Lochs in the neighbourhood. EXCURSION COACHES leave the Hotel daily during the summer season for Pass of Killiecrankie, Falls of Bruar, Queen's View on Loch Tummel, Kinloch-Rannoch, Glen Tilt, &c. Seats secured at the Hotel, Fares moderate. Job and Post Horses and Carriages of every kind, By the Day, Week, or Month. ORDERS BY TELEGRAPH FOR ROOMS, CARRIAGES, OR COACH ."^EATi^, PUNCTUALLY ATTENDED TO. 76 PLYMOUTH. THE ROYAL HOTEL, PLYMOUTH. SPACIOUS GENERAL COFFEE ROOM. RETIRING ROOM FOR LADIES. Good Smoking Room for Gentlemen .staying in the Hotel. S; PEARSE, Proprietor. ■PRESTON RHYL RIPON ROTHESAY. 77 PKESTON, LANCASHIRE. Hcdf-iray between London and Edinburgh, and Londvii and. Glasgoic. THE VICTORIA AND STATION HOTEL Close to the Eailway Station. Established 50 Years. Kight Porter. Charges Reasonable. GOOD STABLING AND COACHHOUSES. MISS BILLIXGTOX, Projrncfrcss. EHYL— XOIiTH WALES. WESTMIIfSTEE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, FACING THE SEA. KIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY. UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. Patronised by H.R.H. PRINCE of WALES. ONE of the Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England, and the principal in Ripon. To meet requirements it has been lately much enlarged and improved. Orders by Post punctually attended to. R,. E. COLLINSON, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Proprietor. ROTHESAY, ISLE OF BUTE. {Opposite the Pier.) THE BUTE ARMS HOTEL. (UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) THIS Old-Ebtablished and First-Class Hotel affords excellent accom- modation for Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen. Charges Strictly Moderate. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. ROBERT SMITH, Proprietor. 78 ROTHESAY (sT. FILLANS, SCe p. 55). QUEEFS ROTHESAY, HOTEL, WEST BAY. Edahllshcd over Twenty-one Years. Five Minutes' IValk from the Quay. On the Esplanade. IV/fK D. MTHERSON (for 29 years Lessee of the Argyll Arms Hotel, liiver- ''- -*- aray) begs to announce tliat he has just succeeded to this Old-Establisheu and First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel, which comprises magnili- cent Dining Saloon (one of the finest in Scotland), Ladies' Drawing Room, elegant Sitting Rooms, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, and over FORTY Bedrooms — all furnished in the most modern style. Tourists would find the Queen's Hotel a most suitable and convenient resort for breaking their journey, either going North or South. Several Pleasure Excursions can be had from Rothesay at convenient houi's every forenoon by ' Columba, ' ' Lord of the Isles,' ' Ivanhoe,' ' Gael,' ' Bonnie Doon, ' 'Sultana,' and other Steamers, for Arran, Cumbrae, Campbeltown, Inveraray, Ardrishaig, Ayr, Arrochar (Loch Lomond), and other places on the Firth of Clyde ; returning to Rothesay in the afternoon, A variety of beauti- ful Drives can also be had to various places of interest in the Island. Table d'Hoxk at 6.30. BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. Letters and Telegrams Punctually Attended to. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. EOTHESAY, BUTE. GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC, DELIGHTFUL Residence, Climate mild, Protected from East Winds. Newly added — An additional Drawing-Room, with a Southern aspect, overlooking the Flower Garden, with over 20 new Bed- rooms and Nursery for Children. Large Handsome Recreation Hall, Music and Billiard Room, Lawn and Ash Tennis Court, Bowling, Boating, etc., etc. The Baths— Turkish, Vapottr, Salt, Russian, !\Iedicated, Elec- tric and Swimming — finest in Britain. Dr. PHILP, Resident Physician. Under the Direction ul" Mr. Puii-P, Proin-ietor of tlie Cuekbuni Hutels, Edinburfrli and Glasgow. SALISBURY SCARBOROUGH. 79 SALISBUKY. THE WHITE HART HOTEL. The Largest and Princij)al Hotel in the City. A N old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel, -^^ nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of the most comfortable in England. Table d'Hote at separate Tables from 6.30 to 8.30 p.m. daily. A Ladies' Coffee Room, a Coffee Eoom for Gentlemen, and first-class Billiard and Smoking Eooms. Carriages and Horses of every description for Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent Stabling. Loose Boxes, etc. Posting-Masters to Her Majesty. Tariff on applicaiion to H. T. BO AYES, Manager. SCARBOROUGH. THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL ESTABLISHED 1864. A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL— Detached— On tlie Cliti", with imiivalled Sea Views, aud commandiug most extensive and pictiu'esque views of the suiTOiiuding country. Elegant Private Apartments. The Cuisine superior, and the "Wines carefully selected, but visitors can use their own without extra charge. FULL TERMS- A la Carte ; or, Board and Attendance in Public Boom, including bed, 10s. lur day. Per iceeJc, £3:3:0. Private ApartmenfSyfrojii.iivo to six guimas per iveek, and Board and Attendance from lbs. 6d.per day, or £^': 10' r p'ir ite^. Reduced Tariff to the end op the first week in AucJUbT. Board and Attendance, in pv.blic rooms, ])er I'/te/j, X2 : 12 : 6'. Per day, 95., and no charge for beds. Full tariff, ajxd particulars on application to .i..io j.i..i..^ "MISS CHANDLER, Maaaycr. 80 SKIPTON SKYE SOUTHPORT STIRLING. SKIPTON. THE DEVONSHIRE HOTEL. V N oM-estahlislicd First-class Family and Cominercial Hr.tel, in tlic centre <;f tlic -^*- Town. Parties visiting "Bolton Abbey" will tiud this Hot^l within an easy i\ FORTESCUE FOX, from London Hospital. See Late Dr. MAXSOX'S Book, 5th Editioyi. IMPROVED DRAUSTAGB AND "WATEH SUPPLY. STEATHPEFFER. BEN WYVI8 HOTEL, Two Minutes walk from liaihcay Station and MINERAL WELLS AND BATHS, CONTAINS SPLENDID NEW DRAWING AND DINING ROOMS, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE APARTMENTS {En Swlte), BILLIARD AND RECREATION ROOMS, BOWLING AND TENNIS GREENS, Amidst Scenery Unsurpassed in Scotland. NEAR POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. POSTING. APPLY THE MANAGER. F STRATHPEFFER. STRATHPEFFEPu V. i^r^'ff^- nnHis Old Established Hotel occupies one of the best situations -*- in Strathpeifer, now considered the most j)opular Health Resort in the Country, within 5 minutes from the Spa ^lineral Wells, Pavilion, Post-Office, etc. ^ It stands within its own Grounds, commands a particularly fine view of the beautiful scenery of the Strath, and is secluded enough to ensure to visitors the privacy and quiet of an ordinary Country Residence. It has recently been enlarged, and now contains Billiard Room, Handsome Drawinci Room, and Spacious Dining Hall, etc. The Grounds have been beautifully laid out with Sheltered Walks and Tennis Lawns, etc. The Hotel is well-kno\vn as a First-Class home, is noted for the Excellence of its Cuisine, and unrivalled for cleanliness and comfort. Omnibus and Boots attend all Trains. TeUplionc communication hetioccn Hotel and Strathpeffer Station. VISITORS CONVEYED FREE OP CHARGE TO AND FROM WELLS. : ^I POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Charges Strictly Moderate. A. WALLACE, Proprietor. TARBERT (haRRIS). 83 TAEBERT HOTEL, ISLE OF HAEEIS. SALMON & SEA-TROUT FISHING FREE. SEA-FISHING. ROBERT EORNSBY "DEGS respectfully to call the attention of Tourists, Anglers, &c., to his -*-' Hotel, where they will find every comfort and good sport. Parties living in the Hotel can get good Salmon and Sea-trout Fishing, or they can have Boats for Sea-Fishing. Various Lochs in connection with the Establish- ment. Post Horses and Carriages are kept for hire. The scenery of Harris is magnificent, including a view of St. Kilda, and the climate is extremely healthy. The Steamer Dunapa Castle, from Glasgow, calls every week ; and the Steamer Clydesdale, also from Glasgow, every fortnight. The Lochs of the Island of Scalpa can be fished by residing at this Hotel, and Excursions can be arranged to all the outlying Islands. The Shootings of the Island of Scalpay, &c., also Seal Shooting, are attached to the Hotel. (Yachts supplied with Stores and Fresh Vegetables. Fua.dwci Parties tal'en in by the WeeJ: or Mcmth. 84 TAYNUILT — TENBY TINTERN. TAYNUILT. TATNUILT HOTEL. rriHIS Hotel is situated near Loch Etive, within two minutes' J- walk from the Taynuilt Station on the Callander and Oban Eailway. Visitors have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fishing on the River Awe. JAMES MURRAY, Prop-ietor. Post Horses, Carriages, Szc. ROYAL GATe'hOTJSE HOTEL. T^HIS well-known Hotel is replete with every comfort for the reception -^ of Families and Gentlemen, combined with moderate charges. The .situation cannot be surpassed, commanding most extensive sea-views. Ladies' Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Bath Room, &c. Billiards. Excellent Stabling. PENSION FOR FAMILIES AT REDUCED TERIViS DURING WINTER SEASON. Table d'Hote at 7 p.m. MISS BRIGHT, Manageress. TENBY. THE COBOTJEG HOTEL. 'M^ji,u'. UNRIVALLED POSITION. FACING THE SEA. Ladies' Drawing Pkoom, Private Sitting Rooms, Hot and Cold Bath Rooms. Good Livery Stables. Tariff — From Three Guineas per week. Si^cial Terms for AVinter Season, Omnibus to all Trains. JOHN B. HUGHES, Proprieior. TINTERN ABBEY. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, TINTERN. A CHARMING First -Class Hotel, delightfully situated in its own Grounds, directly facing the noble Ruins of the Abbey. Carriages meet all Trains at Tintern Station. EMMA GARRETT, P/'^-i-n./mrs- {«-;£^™-jt\':,l'SS?S.- TOBERMORY TORQL" AY 85 TOBEEMOEY (ISLAND OF MULL), X.B. WESTERN ISLES HOTEL {FIRST CLASS). Use of Boats for Fishing the famous Mishnish Lochs and Frisa, free of charge. Beautiful Sijotfor a Family Taisryr'. Families and Gentlemen Boarded from £2 : 5s. per week until July ALBERT MtJXZER. TORQUAY. THE WESTERN HOTEL. Personally Patronised hy Members of the Royal Family. Mm Magnificent views IroJn every wimiow. Home Coiufuit.s. ExcelleJit Cui.sine am Wines. Baths. Tennis Courts. Billiard Room. Coffee and PuMic Drawing Rooms Table d'Hote, Telephone. For Rooms, Tariff, dr., apply to iTie MANAGER. THE TORQUAY GRANVILLE MANSIONS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT AND PENSION. LATE THE HYDROPATHTC. ''PHIS ESTABLISHMENT is conducted with a view to give every home comfort that -*- Visitors raay require. The situation is healthy, free from fogs, rarely any snow or frost seen. Its altitude is 250 feet above Torbay, over which there are very extensive views, equal to Italian Scenery. The Cuisine is good, all provisions being sujiplied from the Home Farm. A spacious Billiard-Room and Reading-Room supplied with daily papers. Saddle Horses. Boating and Fishing in deep sea If required. Torquay and Neishbonrhood in the months of April, May, June, September, October, are siniply delightful. The Estal>lishment is patronised by the Medical Men of Torquay and District, and is under the careful supervision of a well qualilied Ladv and Gentleman For prospectus apply to the Manager. W. BENXET DAW, I'roprictor. /fi6 TOTLAND BAY TOTNES TYNDRUM — TROSSACHS. TOTLAND BAY, near Alum Bay and Fheshwater, Isle of Wight. TOTLAND BAY HOTEL. MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. ^OMFORT with Moderate Charges. Billiard Room. Bracing air, excellent Sands and Promenade Pier. Good Boating and Bathing. Apply to Manager. TOTNES. THE SEYMOUR FAMILY HOTEL And Posting House. ON THE BANKS OF THE DART.- Patronised by H.Pv.H. the Prince of Wales. Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamboats. ^ G. & F. MITCHELL, Proprietors. ~ TYNDPtUM. ROYAL HOTEL. JOSEPH STEWART, of Criaalarich Hotel, begs to intimate that he has taken a lease of the above First-Class Hotel, which, having been built within the last few years, contains superior accommodation, having large and lofty Bedrooms, Baths, etc., with excellent Public Rooms and Private Parlours, Billiard Room, Smoking Room, etc. The whole house has been beautifully furnished anew, and forms one of the most com- fortable and healthful resorts in the Highlands. First rate Cuisine. Table d'Hote Breakfasts and Dinners. Wines, Spirits, and Malt Liquors of best qualities. The outdoor attractions include splendid Lawn-Tennis Court, with nets and all appliances, Excellent Trout Fishing free of charge in Loch Nabea, Loch Dochart, and River Fillan. Boats and Boatmen in attendance. Parties boarded by week or month. Posting in all its branches. Within three m inutes' walk of Railway Station. TROSSACHS. STRONACHLACEER HOTEL. (HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.) T)ONALD FERGUSON begs to intimate that lie has lately completed extensive alterations and additions to his Hotel, and that it M-ill be liis constant endeavour, as heretofore, to secure every comfort and atten- tion to Tourists and others favouring him with their patronage. It is the best Fishing-Station, and Boats, with experienced Boatmen, are always in readiness. During the Season Coaches run to and from Inversnaid in connection with Steamers on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond. Carriages and other Conirjjances kept for Hire, TROSSACHS. 87 THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, LOCH KjATRINE. E. BLAIK, Proprietor, T^HIS First-Class Hotel is beautifull}- situated in tlie midst of -*- tlie classic scenery of Scott's " Lady of the Lake," and is the ONLY HOTEL in the Trossachs. Parties staying for not less than a week can be hoarded on SPECIAL TERMS, excepting from 15th July to 15th Sept. During the season Coaches run from Callander Railway Station to the Trossachs, in connection with all Trains, and in connection with all Steamers on Loch Katrine. These Coaches all stop at this Hotel ; giving passengers time to Lunch. Excellent Fishing in Lochs Katrine and Achray. B<3ats en- gaged at the Hotels and at the Boathouse Loch Katrine Pier. BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. Mdrcss THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, Loch Katrine, By CALLANDER, N.B R. BLAIR, Proprietor. 88 WELLS — YORK — IIYDROPATHIO (maLVERn) ESTAB. COACHES. WELLS, SOMEESET. THE SWAN HOTEL, FACING, AND PRIVATE WALK TO, THE CATHEDRAL. For Tariff of Charges, see the " SwAX^^HoTEL Visitors' Guide to AVells," price 6d., or to MRS. GEORGE, Proprietress. YOEK. HAKKER'S YOEK HOTEL, ST. HELEN'S SQUARE. THIS long-established First-Class Hotel occupies the most central and best Situation in the City, being nearest to the Liinster, the Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, and other objects of interest ; is within five minutes' walk of Station and free from noise of Trains. P. MATTHEWS, ProjyrieUyr. GKEAT MALVERN. HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. DR. RAYNER'S Hydropatliic Establishment and Winter Residence, Great Malvern. Hydropathy, Electricity in every form, Massage, Droitwich Brine and Medicated Baths, and other curative agents. Aix Bath for the treatment of rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, &c., as at Aix-les-Bains. Quiet rooms for tlie treatment of patients by the Weir-Mitchell method. Separate terms to Visitors not requiring medical treatment. For Prospectus apply to T. RAYNER, M.D., as above. THE BHAEfilAH, DUfillELO, BLAIHGOWBSE, A^O GLEi^SHEE COAGHES will commence running on 1st JULY, Leaving Braemar at 8 a.m., Dunkeld at 9 a.m., Blairgowrie at 11 a.m., every lawful day. FiKE Arms Hotel, Braemar, April 1887. COACHES RAILWAYS. 80 NORTH DEVOX. LYNTON AND MINEHEAD. The Well-appointed Fast Four-Horse Coaeh. "lorna doone " Commenced running for the Season on tlie 25tli April between Railway Station, Mineliead, and Ro3'al Castle Hotel, Lynton. For particulars see G. W. Railway Time Tables and Bills. ' THOMAS BAKER Jux., Proprietor. PRiyATE Hotel. Lyntox. LYNTON, LYNMOUTH, AND BARNSTAPLE. The quickest route to London hy three-quarters of an hour. The Well-Appointed Fast Four-Horse Coach " Tanti\-j' ' (carrying the Mails) runs daily throughout the year (Sundays excepted), in counention with the trains of : L. and S. W. Railway, passing through some of the tinest sceneiy in Devonshire, j' Lynton . . . d-^p. S a.m | . z' Waterloo . . . dep. 9 a.m. J Barnstaple . . aiT. 10 55 ,, i > J Barnstaple . . arr. 3 21p.m. I ,, . . dep. 11 3 „ ! o I „ . . . dep, 3 40 „ ^Waterloo . . arr. 5 17 p.m. ! *^ l^Lj-nton . . . aiT. 6 30 „ Tlu-ough Tickets issued at all L. & S.'W. Railway Stations. Booking Office opposite Valley of Rocks Hotel, Lynton. JOXES BROS., House Agents, Lynton, Proprietors. LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY^ WATEELOO STATION, LONDON. The Shortest and Quickest Eoute to the South- West and West of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (" West- ward Ho !"), ILERACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, BUDE via HOLSWORTHY, TAVISTOCK, LAUNCESTON, PLY- MOUTH, DEVONPORT, WEYMOUTH, SWAN AGE, CORFE CASTLE, BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTS- MOUTH, STOKES BAY, and ISLE OF WIGHT. The only throughout Railway to Ilfracombe. FAST EXPRESSES AT ORDINARY FARES, AND FREQUENT FAST TRAINS. All Trains convey Third-Class Passengers. CHEAP TOURIST A^'D EXCURSIOX TICKETS. Through Tickets in connection ^vith the London and North-Western, Great Northern, and Midland Railways. Regular Mail Steam-Ships, via Southampton, to and from the CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY, and GUERNSEY. Also Fast Steam-Ships for Havre, Rouen, and Paris, St. Malo, Cherbourg, Granville, and Honfleur. The Company's Steam- Ships are not surpassed in Speed or Accommodation by any Channel Vessels. CHARLES SCOTTER, General Manager. 90 RAILWAYS. £AST COAST "EXPRESS" ROUTE. GREAT NORTHERN. AND NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS/ SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN IiONDON &; EDINBURGH St OIiASOOW. London & Emsbukgh 8 Hk.s. 55 MiNS. To Glasgow in 10 Hks. 20 MiNs. SPECIAL DAY EXPRESS TEAINS run between Glasgow, Edinburgli, and London, as under : DOWN. UP. King's Cross Dep. 10.0 A.M. Perth Dep. 7.30 -A.M Edinburgh Arr. 7.0 p.m. Glasgow „ 8.45 „ Glasgow „ 8.20 „ Edinburgh ,, 10.0 „ Perth „ 9.35 „ King's Cross Arr. 7.0 p.m. THROUGH WEEK-DAY SERVICE Between London and Scotland by East Coast Route. DOWN. A B Sat. 1 UP. C_ A.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. P.M. P.M. 1 A.M. JA.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. King's X, Dp. 5.15 10.0 10.35 8.0* 8.30 10.30 S.30J Wick Dp.12.10 £8.0 .. •• .. Edinburgh Ar. 3.40 7.0 8.38 4.55 6.15 9.55 6.151 Thurso.... „ 12.25 8.10 .. .. Glasgow.. „ 5.20 8.20 10.25 6.20 7.45 11.15 7.55 j Helmsdale „ 3,30 10.18 .. .. 2.20 Stirling ,. „ 5. IS 8.25 10.26 6.30 7.41 1.55 7.37 1 Golspie... „ 4.30 10.56 .. .. .3.24 Oban , 'J.47 4.45 . 12.25 6.17 1 •• 1 Inverness. ,, 10.10 3.0 ,. .. 10.0 Perth „ 6.40 9.35 1].36 7.20 8.35 3.35 8.30 Aberdeen. „ 1.20 4.40 .. 8.55 Dundee... ,, 0.45 10.30 12.40 8.20 9.50 4.45 9.5 ; P.M. Aberdeen. „ 8.40 3.5 3.5 9.55 11.15 8.30 12.0 ! Dundee... „ 4.0 6.40 7.0 7.0 11.5 Inverness. „ .. 8.5 8.5 11.50 6.5 1.30 Perth „ 4.20 7.35 7.30 7.30 12.0 Golspie .. „ .. 1.18 2.10 1.18 2.10 3.24 4.1 •• 5.14 5.51 Oban , 12.40 Stirling... ,, 5.19 4.0 .. 6.10 Helmsdale „ 8.41 8.40 8.40 1.5 Thurso.... „ .. 4.40 4.40 6.0 ; 7.50 Glasgow.. ,, 6.0 9.5 8.45 8.45 1.0 Wick .... „ .. 5.0 5.0 6.10 8.0 1 Edinburgh „ 7.35 10.40 10.0 10.15 2.50 A. Does not leave B ang's Cross onS iturd lys orSun- King's X, Ar. 5.45 8.15 7.0 8.30 2.10 days. 1 A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. A.M. B. The train leaving King's Cross at 10.30 p.m. on \ Saturdays does not run north o f Berwick on Sunday morning. C. Not run from Inverness on Saturday uigl its. ... Third-class tickets are issued by all trains, except the additional Special Scotch Express trains, from King's Cross at lO.O a.m., and Edinburgh at 10.0 a.m. It is intended that this train service shall be in force until 1st July, but from that date the night express train service will be altered, and additional expresses run between King's Cross and Scotland by East Coast route. An additional day express will leave King's Cross at about 10.25 a.m. for Edin- burgh. The down night service will be improved, and an additional train run from King's Cross. The 10.40 p.m. up express from Edinburgh will leave at 10.20 p.m. and be accelerated so as to reach King's Cross at 7.10 a.m. New express trains will leave Edinburgh at 12.40 noon and 10.40 p.m., and arrive at King's Cross 10.50 p.m. and 8.0 a.m. respectively. ■ The 8.0 and 8.30 p.m. Express train.s from King's Cross are in direct connection with the " lona " and other West Coast Steamers. PX7L.IjMAN cars & SLEEPING CARRIAGES are attached to the night trains. Alterations may be made in the times of the trains from month to month, for particulars of which see the East Coast Railways' Monthly Time Books. Conductors in charge of through luggage travel with the Express trains leaving London at 10.0 and 10.35 a.m., 8.0 and S.oO p.m.; and Perth at 4.20 p.m. and 7.30 A.M.; and Edinburgh at 10.0, 10.15 a.m., 7.35 p.m., and 10.40 p.m. EAST COAST ROUTE. GREAT NORTHERN AND NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS. TOURIST TICKETS.— From 10th May to 31st Octol.er, l.st, iM, and 3d class toui-ist tickets, availoMefor return, vnthout extra 'payment, until 31st December ISS?, will be is.sued from London (King's Cross, G.X.R.), 111 Strand, 285 Oxford Street, at tlie Offices of Messrs. Swan & Leach, 32 Piccadilly Circus, and 3 Charing Cross ; and at Yictoi-ia (L. C. & D.), Moorgat^? Street and Finsbury Park Stations, etc., etc., to the under-mentioned stations in Scotland, at fares as under :— FAEES FROM KINCPS CROSS. 1st class 2d class 3d class 1st class 2d class 3d class s. d. s. d. s. d. s d. s. d. s. d. aBERWICK . . 94 lb 4 49 6 St. Andrews . 121 9 88 10 56 «Melrose, via Coldstream . 96 8 76 50 Hexham . . 99 6 74 9 50 o' Dundee . . . 125 3 90 8 56 Peebles . . . 104 9 50 Arbroath , . 128 3 92 2 56 aEDINBURGH . 109 6 79* 9 50 Montrose . , 133 94 6 56 Forfar . , . 130 3 93 8 56 Brechin . . . 133 94 6 56 Glasgow . . 110 3 81 2 52 Aberdeen . 133 6 94 9 56 Helensburgh . 112 9 82 4 52 Ballater . . 143 3 105 3 62 10 Larbert . . . 112 82 52 Pitlochry . . 131 2 93 6 56 Stirling . . . 114 3 83 10 53 6 Struan . . . 134 4 95 10 57 10 Bridge of Allan 115 84 6 54 Boat OF Garten ■147 6 Dunblane . . 115 6 84 9 54 Grantown . . 103 9 00 Callander . . 118 54 Keith . . . Crieff . . . 121 6 88* 8 54 Elgin. . . . 148 6 104 3 60 KiLLIN . . . 121 59. Inverness . . ■ Dalmally . . 129 9 62 Nairn . . . •150 105 60 LocH Awe . . 130 3 62 6 Forres . . . CoNNEL Ferry 131 9 6.3 6 Dingwall . . 150 108 11 63 1 Taynuilt . . 131 3 63 Strathpeffer . 151 3 109 11 03 8 OBAN.viaDalmally 132 3 64 Achnasheen . 157 6 112 6 67 6 Oban, via Glasg' Strome Ferry 164 9 117 4 70 or Helensburgh 130 3 101 2 68 Lairg . . . . 160 115 70 Oban, Circ. Tour 131 3 63 6 Golspie , . . 165 118 9 72 6 Perth . . . 123 3 88* 8 54 HELilSDALE . . 170 122 6 75 DUNKELD . . 127 8 90 10 , 54 Thurso , . . 184 6 133 9 83 Aberfeldy . . 132 3 94 4 56 10 Wick . . . . 186 9 135 4 84 From Victoria (L. C. A I J).) and Moorgat( i, 8d. 1st, and Od . 2d class. will be added to the' King's Cross fares, except to Berwick, a Tickets are also issued from Broad St. to Berwick, Melrose, and Edinbro' at fares as follows :— Berwick, same as from King's Cross ; Mekose and Edinbro', 8d. 1st, and 6d. 2d class, higher than King's Cross. BREAK OF JOURNEY.— Passengers may break their journey, both injgoing and returning, at Peterboro' ; also at Grantham or Uoncaster to enable them to -visit Lincoln Cathedral, paying the ordinary fares between those places and Lincoln, and at York to enable them to visit Harrogate, Scarboro', and the East Coast watering-places, and also at Darlington, Durham, Newcastle (for Newcastle Exhibition),-^ Bilton, and Belford, re- suming it by trains having carriages attached corresponding to the class of ticket held ; also at Berwick or any station north of Berwick on the routes by which the tickets are available. Passengers for places north of Edinburgh and Larbert may break the journey in Edinburgh and at Glasgow, and also at any station at which the train ordinarily stops. Tickets between Great Northern stations and places north of Larbert are available at Edinburgh and also at Glasgow. Passengers breaking the journey at Glasgow may travel to or from the north viei Greeuhill or Pobnont without additional payment, provided they make use of N. B. Co.'s trains to and from Glasgow (Queen St. station). The journey can be broken both going and returning, and without restriction as to period, except that the return journey must be completed within the time for wiiich the ticket is available. Passengers with tickets for aielrose are also at liberty to break the journey at St. Bos- well's for Dryburgh Abbey. The above facilities and arrangements, as regards passengers breaking their joumey, apply equally to Ist, 2d, and 3d class. "^ The Royal Mixing and Engineering, ete. etc., Exhibition at Newcastle will he open from nth May rintil 31st October. The Royal AgricvXtural Show will be at Newcastle from July nth to loth. The holders of through tickets to Scotland vmy break the journey at Newcastle when going north and v:hcn returning to the south. for fariiier mlormatiou apply at tiie Offices of the East Coast Ry. Cos. in Edin burgh, 9 Princes St. ; Glasgow, 32 West Oeorge St. ; Perth, General Sta- tion ; Dundee, 33 Cowgate ; Aberdeen, 28 Market St. ; Inverness, 6 Academy St. ; Oban, Bank of Scotland Buildings (Mr. J. Stuart). 92 RAILWAYS. LONDON & NORTH-WES TERN AND C ALEDONIAN RAILWAYS. West Coast Royal Mail Route between England & Scotland Fia PEE STON and CA RLISLE. TRAIN SERVICE— 1st, 2d, and 3d Class by aU Trains. Stations. London (Euston) .... dep. Birminj^ham (New St.). . ,, Liverpool (Lime Street) ,, „ (Exchange) .. ,, Manchester (Exchange) ,, (L.andY.).. „ Jloft'at arr. Edinburgh (Princes Street) ,, Glasgow (Central Station) ,, Greenock ,, Stirling ,, Oban ,, Perth „ Dundee ,, Aberdeen „ Inverness ,, Week - Days. m. a.m.] a.m. a.m. p.m.' p.m.lp.m. jngtt ,15; 7.1510.0 10.10 S.O I 8.50,10.0 12.0 ,30! 8..50|l2.0 il2.0 :i0.15!10.15 12.5 3.10 11.40 12.45 .. I 2.35 40 11.10 11.35 11.5 11.10 47 4.27 15 5.50 25| 6.0 38 7.13 34 .. 5 •• ir>: .. 30, .. 1.45 2.20 2.0 1.45 6.52 8.0 8.0 9.3 8.25 9^35 3.45 3.25: .. i .. 4.0 111.40 1.0 3.25' .. .. 10.5 10.15 11.57 10.45 4. 45 1 11.50; 10.30;i2.40 .. 3.5 I .. 8.5 .. I 6.0 7.5 : 6.30, 7^20 8.20 9.55 11.50! 6.55 7.5 8.45 7.41 12.25 8.55 0.50 12.0 *6.5 7.22 [11 9.0 il2.52 9.15 I 1.5 10.43 '9.50 11.10, 12.5 I ^2.15 ^6.5 I 2.46 1.57 6.17 3.35 4.45 8.30 Sundays. p.m. 8.50 10.15 12.45 1.0 6.0D 7.5 8.45 7.. 50 12.25 8.50 10.0 12.0 6.5 p.m. 10.0 10.15 nght 12.0 3.10 2.35 7.22; 9.0 9.14 10.43! 9.50 ii!io 12.5 2.15 6.5 11.2 12.52 1.5 2.46 1.57 6.17 3.35 4.45 8.30 No connection to places marked (*) on Saturday nights, f Not on Saturday nights from London. dep. Up Trains Inverness Aberdeen Dundee Oban Perth Stirling Greenock Glasgow (Central Station) Edinburgh (Princes Street) SIofTat Manchester (Exchange) arr. I'i, (L.andY.). Liverpool (Lime Street) ,, ,, (Exchange) .. ,, Birmingham (New St.) . . ,, London (Euston) — arr. a.m. p.m. a.m. a.m. a.m. p.m. p.m. p.m. a.m. p.m. 10.0 10.10 3.0 1 ^ . 10.10 a.m. 8.55 12.30 4.40' -^i. 12.30 3.10 7.40 11.5 3.30 6.40 ■^^ .. > 6.1012.40 4.0 '~ .. 8.30 .. 12.0 4.13 7.30 "^ § 4.4 .. 9.30 1.5 5.0 8.30 5.5 9.0 9.5 1.10 5.0 8.5 9.0 5.0 0.0 10.0 no 2.15 5.. 50 9.5 10.5 5.. 50 9.5 1 . 6.0 10.0 n.o 2.25 6.0 9.10 10.10 6.0 9.10 . 7.0 10.30 12.35 3.55 0.20 .. .. 1-2.30 4.20 0.0 8.55 3.35 3.35 4.40 .. 3.50 . 12-15 3.55 5.25 8.45 12.12 12.30 : 12.. So 4.35 5.40 9.15 12.20 3.45 3.45 4..50 12.0 3.55' . 12.17 3.52 5.30 8.50 .. 1 '. 2.40 6.13 810 11.25 2.32 5.45 5.45 .. 2.32 5.45' . p.m. p.m. a.m. a.m. a.m.! 4.20 8.0 10.15 3.50 7.0 7.45 3.50 8.0 This Train Service will be in force until 1st Jtily, but from that date the Train Service will be altered and additional Fast Express Trains run between England and Scotland by the West; Coast Route. Full particulars will be duly announced in the Company's Time Books and Bills. Through Guards and Conductors travel by the iir'mcipal day and night Express Trains. DKAWING-ROOM SA.LOONS, without extra charge, litted with Lava- tory accoinmoilation, and furnished with every modern convenience, are run between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow by the train leaving Euston at 10 a.m., returning from Edinburgh and Glasgow by 10 a.ra. Up Express. Carriages v/ith Lavatories are also run on all the principal Express and Fast Trains between England and Scotland. llMPflOVED SLEEPING SALOON CARRIAGES, lighted with gas, conifortably heated, and provided with Pillows, Sheets, Blankets, Rugs, Lavatories, etc., are attached to the Night Trains from and to London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Stranraer, Perth, etc., the charge for each Berth being 5s. in addition to the ordinary First-Class Fare. Separate apartments are reserved for ladies travelling alone. Saloons, Family Carriages, Reserved Compartments, and all other conveniences necessary to ensure comfort on the journey, can be arranged upon application to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of the L. & N.-\V. line, Euston Station, London ; Mr. Irvine Kempt, General Superintendent, Cal. Rail., Glasgow; or to any of the Stiition-Masters at the Stations on the "West Coast Route. RAILWAYS. 93 1st, 2d, and 3d class TOURIST TICKETS Available from date of issue up to and including 31st December 1SS7, ARE (during the SEASON, MAY lOTH Tu OCTOBER 31ST) IHSVED FROM LONDON and all Principal Stations in ENGLAND TO CHIEF TOURIST RESORTS >!c PLACES OF INTEREST IN SCOTLAND. For full particulars see the " West Coast Tourist Gv.ide" (with Maps, price 3d.), u-hich can be obtained at all Stations. BREAK of JOURNEY.— Passengers may break their journey, either going or retui-ning, at Rugby, Birmingliam, Staflord, Crev.e, Warrington, Wigan, Preston, Lan- caster, Carnforth, Oxenholme (to enable them to visit Windermere and the other Lakes), Shap, Penrith, Carlisle, and at any intermediate Station on the direct route between Carlisle and their destination in Scotland. Passengers mayalso break their journey at Kenil- worth, as also at Leamington (for Stratford -on-Avon) and at Lichfield. Passengers from London and Stations South of Crewe will be allowed to proceed to and break the journey at Manchester (for the purpose of visiting the Jubilee Exhibition) without extra paj-- ment. Tourists breaking the journey at any Station when travelling in the outward direction are required to produce both the outward and return halves of their tickets. TOURIST TICKETS issued by the West Coast Route to Stirhng, Oban, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other Stations north of Larbert, entitle the Passengers either to travel direct to the North, or first to visit Edinburgh and then Glasgow, travelling by the Caledonian Line throughout, thus: — To Edinburgh, via Carstairs: from Edinburgh (Princes St.) to Glasgow, via Caledonian Line ; from Gla.sgow to the North, via Caledonian Line, and vice versa on return. Tickets are also issued entitling the holders to travel via Carstairs and Edinburgh, bieak the journey at the latter place, and proceed thence to Larbert, starting from the Waverley Station, Edinburgh, and travelling via Linlithgow, returning by the same route. Passengers must state at the time of booking by which route they elect to travel, and obtain Tickets accordingly. Passengers holding Tourist Tickets to Montrose, Brechin, Aberdeen, and Stations north of Guthrie, may travel via Forfar or via Dundee, in either direction. DINING-. —The Do^\-n and Up Day Expresses wait 20 minutes at PRESTON to enable Passengers to dine, and Hot Dinners are provided, 2s. 6d. each — No fees. Special Dinners will be pro\ided for Family Parties, on notice being given to the Conductor at Crewe on the Dov.-n jouruev, and at Carlisle on the Up journey. LUNCHEON-BASKETS are" supplied to Passengere in the Tmins at the Euston, Bletchley, Rugby, Nuneaton, Staflbrd, Crewe, Preston, and Carlisle Stations, at the following charge:— Baskets containing half a chicken, with ham or tongue, or a portion of cold beef, salad, ice, bread, cheese, butter, etc., with either half a bottle of claret, two glasses of sherry, or a pint bottle of stout, Ss. HOT LUNCHEONS, con- sisting of fiUet of beef or mutton chop, fried potatoes, bread, etc., can be supplied to Passengers in the Trains at Crewe, Rugby, and Stafford, on giving notice to the guard of^he tram at the preceding stopping stations. The charge for the hot luncheon is 3s. with wine or beer, and 2s. 6d. without. Luncheon-Baskets are pro\-ided at Perth for the convenience of Passengers travelling by the West Coast Route. OMNIBUSES FOR USE OF FAMILY PARTIES travelling by the West Coast Route.— The L. and N.-W. Ry. Co. pro%-ide, when p^e^-iously ordered. Omnibuses capable of carrying six persons inside and two outside, with the usual quantity- of luggage, to meet trains at Euston Station. The Omnibuses will also be sent to the hotels or residences of parties leading London by L. and N.-W. Ry. on application being made to the Station-Master at Euston, stating the train by which it is intended to leave Euston. The charge for the use of an Omnibtis will be as follows :— For distances under six miles, Is. per mile ; for distances sis miles and over, or when two horses are used at the request of a Passenger, Is. 6d. per mile, except when a large 'bus is used, when the charge is 23. per mile. Passengers from Scotland, by the West Coast Boute, travelling by the Limited Mail or other Through Scotch Trains from Perth, Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Stations South, can secure these Omnibuses to meet the Trains on arrival at Euston Station, by giving notice to the respective Station-Masters before starting. The Omnibuses can gtneraUy he obtained on arrival of the Train at Euston, even though not preAiously ordered. PA.MILY LUGGAGrE.— AiTangements have been made in London and other large towns for carting to the Station, at low rates, the luggage of Families travelling by the L. -ARA Castle sails from Glasgow every Thursday at 12 Noon, and from Greenock at 7 p.m., for Colonsay, lona, Bunessan, Tyree, Barra, Uist, Skye, and Harris, returning to Glasgow on "Wednesdays. Atfords to Tourists the opportunity of about a week's comfortable Sea Voyage, and at the same time a Panor- amic "View of the magnificent scenery of the Outer Hebrides. Cabin Fare (superior sleeping accommodation), 45s. Cuisine (excellent) — Breakfa.st, 2s.; Dinner, 2s. 6d. ; Tea, 2s. •^le Bills (with Maps) and Berths secured on application to MARTIX ORME, 20 Robertson Street, Gla.sgow. 104 STEAMERS. TO TOURISTS. LEITH AND ABERDEEN TO NORWAY. Full particulars (and Hand-Book, 6d.) of the Tourist Service by the Splendid Neio Steamship St. Sunniva to the JVest Coasts and Fiords of Norway may be obtained at the Offices men- tioned below. STEAM FROM LEITH TO ABERDEEN, CAITHNESS, ORKNEY, AND SHETLAND. The North of Scotland and Orkney and Shetland Steam Navigation Company's Royal Mail Steamships "St. Eognvald," "St. Magnus," "St. Nicholas," "St. Clair," and "Queen," sail from Albert Dock, Leith, to Aberdeen ..... Four times a week. Caithness ... . . . Twice a week. Orkney and Shetland . . Three times a week. Special Tourist Tickets during the Sectson. Bills of Sailings, Plans of Cabins, Maps of Routes, Guide Books, etc., to be had on application to Chai;les Merrylees, ]\Ianager, Aberdeen ; or George Hourston, Agent, 64 Constitution Street, Leith, and 18 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. Berths secured at 18 Waterloo Place, Edinhiirgh. CHEAPEST AND SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND NORWAY. May to September. THE fast, first-class Norwegian Rnyal Mail .steamer Norge, 920 tons gross register. Captain F. Wiese, leaves Newcastle-on-Tyne fm- Bergen every Thursday evening at 7 o'clock, and leaves Bergen for Newcastle every Saturday evening at o'clock. A Special Steam Tender conveys passengers and their luggage to and from the Norge, and leaves the Ferry Landing at Newcastle Quay (5 minutes' drive from the Station) everv Tuesday at (J p.m. FARES :— First Class, £3 ; Return £5. Including all meals and Steward's fee (wines, etc., extra). Average passage, 6 hours. For Passage, Freight, or other infornc lio 1. applv to P. G. Halvorsen, Bergen, owner ; or to the Agents, / BORRIES, CRAIG, cSd Co., Newcastle-on-Tyne' STEAMERS. 105 "anchor line." Transatlantic, Peninsular, Mediterranean, and Oriental Steamshi2?s. Tons. Tons. . " Tons. Tons. *Agadia . 1081 Bolivia . 4050 Elysia . 2713 Olympla. . 2051 Alexandria 2017 Britannia . 3069 Ethiopia 4004 Persia . 3547 Alsatia . 2810 Caledonia . 2151 Express . ROUMANIA 3387 Anchoria 4167 California 3410 Furnessia 5495 "Scandinavia 1138 Arabia . 3544 CiRCASSiA . 4272 *Hesperia 3037 Shamrock Armenia . 3395 City of Rome 8415 HisPANiA 33S0 "SlDONIAN 1382 Asia 3560 Columbia . 2029 India . 2476 Three Brothers Assyria . 2022 Despatch . Italia . 2248 *Trinacria 2256 Australia 2252 Devonia . 4270 *Karamania3148 *Tyrian . 1039 Belgravia 4976 DORLAN . 1038 Nubia . 3551 UT0PL&. . 2731 Do not can-y Cabin Pa.ssengers. Victoria . 3358 GLASGOW TO NEW YORK, Tm MOVILLE, Every Thursday. Great Reduction in Fares. Fares to New York, Boston, or Philadelphia— First Class, £9 : 9s. to £12 :12s. ; Second Class, £6 : Os. ; Steerage, at Lowest Rates. LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK (EXPEESS SERVICE). Carrying the British and American Mails. '- ■ S.S. CITY OF ROME, 8415 Tons-lltli May, Sth June, 6th July, 3d Aucr , 31st Aug. , and 2Sth Sept. First Class, 12 to 25 Gns. ; Second Class, £7 :' Steerage, at Lowest Rates. MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. Glasgow for Iiisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messma, Palermo, and Trieste, Fortnightly. RATES OP PASSAGE. Cabix Fare— Glasgow to Lisbon, £\:,:6s.; Gibraltar, £S:S.s.; Genoa, £12 :12s.; Leghorn, £13 :13s.; Naples, £U :14s.; Trieste, £16 :16s.; Messina, Catania, or Palemio {via Italy), £16 :16s. Passengers are found in a Liberal Table, and all necessaries, except Wines and Liquors, which can be had on board at moderate prices. No Steward s Fee. INDIAN SERVICE. *w^ '« steamers are Despatclied from Glasgow and liiverpool to liombay and Calcutta (via Suez Canal at regular intervals carrying Passengers on the most advantageous terms. Passage Money to Calcutta, £60 ; to Bombay, £47 : 10s. All Passengers - . embark at Liverpool. ° ' ■ ■'' Apply to^ Henderson Brothers, 20 Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff; 1 Pamnure Street Dundee ; 1, Water Street, Liverpool; 57 Union Street, Glasgow; 80 Fovle Street! M.vlm %'-i ^''l!*' ^3^™'""^' Queenstown ; 3 Rue Scribe, Paris ; 2 Rue Noailles Marseilles; Gibraltar; Trieste; Vienna; 7 Bowling Green, New York ; 7 and 9 State Street Boston; 4S South Clark Street, Chicago; J. C. Baikes, Antwerp ; -William ?p™-^^^ aT^^' <^«^^,^e«,Fi'^''^", Genoa ;Mascaeen-has& Co., Lisbon; Clemexs n.^f f-^^'iT^^^^^^* ' ^!'^ ^^"' ?! ^^•'•'- H^^^-ES, Cadiz ; Wm. Jaffray, Almeria ; ? t!;^, ?-■' ^f ^ncia and Denia ; 0. F. Gollcher, Malta ; O. Di Benedetto, Catania ; K lAGLiAMA GOLD AND BRONZE MEDALS, FISHERIES, 1883. SILVER MEDAL, INVENTIONS, 1885. GOLD MEDAL, EDINBURGH, 1886. GOLD MEDAL, GLASGO^W, 1886-7. By Sijecial Royal Aj^pointment. SPEARMAN'S DEVON SERGES. PURE WOOL ONLY. FOE ALL SEASONS OF THE YEAR. PLAIN COLOURS, CHECKS, AND MIXTURES. STRONG! USEFUL! DURABLE! For Ladies' "Wear ... Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. the yard. For Gentlemen's Suits '■ . . Ss. lid. to 10s. 6d. the yard. 071 Receipt of Instructions Samples u-ill be sent Post Free. N.B.—A.nY length cut and carriage paid to principal stations in the United Kingdom. ONLY ADDRESS— NO AGEXTS : SPEARMAN. SPEARMAN. PLYMOUTH. 112 MISCELLANEOUS. ii « g ^ ►•cS-oi^n Ep. rr. Bio-wne coined the word Chlorodyne wherewith to designate his discovery, consequently to apply the word to other compounds is as dishonest as it is absurd. MISCELLANEOUS. IM 31: 6°Packefss2CTins. Five 6? Packers: perPostFor2^9.\ ALTED I USKS; rMcVlTIE, EDINBURGH. TWO-D!STINCT'KimiS'- /g THIN^orWaterOatcakes. Per T.H,-rHlCKoRluTfEi! Oatcakes. 114 MISCELLANEOUS. GANTRELL AND GOGHRANE'S WORLD-RENOWNED TABLE WATERS. The ACME of PERFECTION. London M S 11 o o r^ t 7, Woodstock Street, Oxford St., W. Manufacturers by Special Appointment to H.R.H. the PRINCE of WALES. coo WW QQ 00 [HO, OQ Q O P. & J. H AGG ART, BREADALBANE MILLS and KELTNEY BURN MILLS, ABERFELDY, N.B., Manufacture HOME-GROWN WOOL into their well-known make of BREADALBANE DEER-STALKING and other TWEEDS in stylish checks, and a variety of HEATHER MIXTURES, suitable for Moor or Loch, and every-day wear. They also manufacture LADIES' COSTUME TWEEDS, in Saxony or Home Wools. Winceys, Petticoat Stuffs, Genuine Scotch Blankets in Highland and Cheviot Wools, Bedcovers, Crumbcloths or Dniggets (72 in. wide), in plain gray or fancy checks, made up to any size required. Sheeting. Plaiding. The correct sets of the leading Clan Tartans for Kilting or Ladies' Dresses, in Cheviot and Saxony Wools. Plaids. Travelling Wraps in Tweed-Patterns, or Clans. Reversible Wraps. Socks and Knickerbocker Hose, hand-knitted, to size ; Home- spun Stocking Yarns in marls, mixtures, and native dyes. Caps and Hats of Home-spun Tweeds. ANY LENGTH CUT, SUIT OR DRESS LENGTHS BY PARCELS POST. PAHERNS ON APPLICATIOM. W m& WM. WOOLLAMS & CO., ORIGINAL MANUFACTURERS, ARTISTIC WALL-PAPERS. GUARANTEED FREE FROM ARSENIC. Show Rooms : 110 High Street, Manchester Square, London, W. (Sole Address.) Of all Decorators and Contractors. Seventeen Medals, including Gold Medal, International Health Exhibition. N.B. — Especially adapted to Mansions, Institutions, and Hotels. MISCELLANEOUS. 115 LAMBETH SANI TARY ENGIN EERING WORKS. DOULTON & CO., ALBERT EMBANKMENT, LAMBETH, LONDON. The Lambeth Patent COMBINATION CLOSET, COMPBISINO The Closet— The Slop Sink— The Urinal. ADVANTAGES. All Parts are Open to Inspection — Requires no Enclosure — Is Decorated on the Outside — Front of Basin Lipped to Form Urinal when Seat is Raised — If inches of Water retained in Basin with a Water Area equal to Size of Hole in Seat, thus Reducing Chance of Soiling Basin. N,B. — Messrs. Doulton & Co. are the Original Manufacturers of this Class of Closet. The Lambeth Patent INSTANTANEOUS WATE? BOILER Obviates necessity for expensive system of Hot- Water Pipes — Is free from all injurious fumes — Has no visible condensation — Will instantaneously heat a stream of Cold Water at any hour of day or night, and to any temperature up to boiling — NO DIRECT CONTACT of the GAS with the WATER— Water and Gas supplies are so arranged as to render it impossible to light the Gas without turning on the Water, thus preventing any chance of an accident common without this precaution. Also Doulton's Patent AUTOMATIC FLUSH TANKS & SYPHONS, for keeping Drains and Sewers free from Obstruction. Advantages: — Simplicity of Fixing, Freedom from Moving Parts, Facility of Inspection, Instantaneous Action with a Drop by Drop Supply, Price Lists Post Free on Application. SHOWROOMS— ALBERT EMBANKMENT, LONDON. 116 INSURANCE. .• ■; -. ;-^ ,: ^ ^>T 2 ' ' .v/i»*vr» *-- Founded 1805. ' liia-l^ Caledonian Insurance Company. Income exceeds . . . £250,000 Funds exceed .... £1,100,000 Reserve Funds on a larger scale, relatively to the liabilities, than those of most other Offices. Income and Funds trebled within the last 20 years. Fire and Life Claims paid exceed 2^ Millions Sterling. Complete Non-Forfeitable System. Liberal Surrender Values, see Table in Prospectus. Profits may be applied to make the policy payable during life. Manager arid Actuary.— T). Deuchak, F.I.A., and F.F.A. BDINBTTBGH, 19 Qeorge Street. GLASGOW, 64 St. Vincent Street. DUNDEE, Albert Square. ABERDEEN, Albany Buildings, Bridge Street LONDON, 82 King William Street, E.G., and 9 Craig's Court, Charing Cross. MANCHE3TEB, 60 Spring Gardens. IiIVEBPOOL, C5 Exchange. NEW METHOD OF LIFE ASSURANCE. ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH LAW LIFE ASSURANCE ASSOCIATION. Established 1839. Subscribed CAPirAL £1,000,000. Investe d Funds £1,390,000. 120 Princes Street, Edinburgh : William Smith, Esq., LL.D., Manager. 12 Waterloo Place, London : Francis E. Colenso, Esq., F.I. A., Acttuiry. Trustees. ■"■ The Right Hon. LORD HA.LSBURY, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain. The Right Honourable the EARL OF GLASGOW, Lord Clerk-Register of Scotland. The Right Hon. LORD MONCREIFF, Lord Justice-Clerk of Scotland. The Honourable LORD ADAM, one of the Judges of the Court of Session. The Honourable SIR WILLIAM V. FIELD, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court. EDWARD KENT KARSLAKE, Esq., Q.C. | WILLIAM SMYTHE, Esq., of Methven. AN ENTIRELY NEW and ADVANTAGEOUS METHOD of LIFE ASSURANCE is now presented by the "DOUBLE'* BENEFIT ENDOWMENT POLICIES of this Association, whereby the Sum assured is payable Twt only to the Assured himself on attaining a certain age, Imt also to his representatives at Death either before or after the former event. These Policies axe Non-Forfeitable. Full Particulars on Application. Claims Payable on Proof of Death. Claims Paid exceed £2,401,000. Nine-Tenths of Profits given to the Assured. Loans are granted, in connection with Life Assurance, on Life Interests, Reversions, Personal, and other approved Securities. Liberal Conditions as to Foreign Residence. BBANCH OFFICES: Glaboow— 105 St. Vincent Street. | Dublin— 41 Lower Sackville Street. INSURANCE. 117 Commercial Mnion assurance Compang, 3Limiteti< FIRE— LIFE— MARIN E . Capital folly Subscribed £2,500,000 Life Fund in Special Trust for Life Policyholders £1,000,000 Other Funds £1,300,000 TOTAL INVESTED FUNDS, TWO AND ONE QUARTER MILLIONS. Total Net Annual Income . . . . . £1,140,000 HEAD OFFICE :— 19 & 20 CORNHILL, WEST END OFFICE: — 8 PALL MALL, HOME BRANCHES:— Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Leeds, Nottingham, Birmingham, Norwich, Bristol, Dublin, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. LONDON, E.C. LONDON, S.W. DIRECTORS. W. Hxaaaas ASBTTTEirOT, Esq. BoBxu Babclat, Esq-.of Bajcl&y, Bevan, * Co. W. Mn)DL«TOH Campbjoj:., Esq., of Hogg, Cortia, CamplMll, & Co. JjOLXMLLB CoLMAW, E«q., of J. & J. ColmaiL Sir James F. Gaskick. Q,C.. K.C.M.G. Alfred Giles, Esq., M.P., 26 Great G«or?e St., 8 W. FsKDBRicK W. HAiiBis, Esq., of Harris * Diion. Jomr Holms, Esq., of Wm. Holms * Brothers. F. Larkwoktht, Esq., Bank of New Zealand. Ceablss J. Leaf. Esq., of Leaf, Sons, & Co. Bieht Hon. A. J. Musdklui, M.P. Sir Hkitbt W. Peek, Bart., of Peek Brothers, & Co. P. P. EoDOOAKACHi, Esq., of P. P. Eodocaiuwhl &Co. Thos. RussKli, Esq., C.M.G. P. G. Sbchiabi, Esq., of Sechiari Bros. 4 Co. D. Cooper Scoit, Esq., of Wilson, Sons, & Co.. Limited, John P. Tati, Esq. JoHK Tbottke. Esq., of John Trotter ft Co. Hhtey Teowib, Esq., of Trower