UC-NRLF ITY OF CALIF 32106017226207 A- CHECKERED IIFE. COL. JOHN A. JOYCE. There 's a divinity that shapes our ends, rough hew them how we may. 7 ' SJi akespcare. Variety is the very spice of life, that gives it all its flavor." Homo sum et nil humanum a me alienum puto." Terence. CHICAGO : S. P. ROUNDS, Jr., 175 Monroe Street 1883. - Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1883, S. P. ROUNDS, Jr., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, ELECTROTYPED BY THE ROUNDS TYPE AND PRESS CO. , 5 INDEX. CHAPTER I. PAGE Birthplace and Ancestry 17 CHAPTER II. School-boy Days 19 CHAPTER III. School in Montgomery County 25 CHAPTER IV. A Description of Lunatic Fancies 31 CHAPTER V. Kentucky in Early War-Days 46 CHAPTER VI. History of the Twenty-fourth Kentucky Regiment 50 CHAPTER VII. The Battle of Shiloh 58 CHAPTER VIII. Corinth ahd Alabama Campaign 63 CHAPTER IX. Bragg 's Raid and Other Kentucky Matters 72 CHAPTER X. Louisville Experiences 77 CHAPTER XI. Knoxville Expedition 86 CHAPTER XII. The Siege of Knoxville 92 CHAPTER XIII. Chattanooga and Atlanta 104 8 INDEX CHAPTER XIV. Kencsaw Mountain : j j -. CHAPTER XV. Battles About Atlanta ; \ 2 o CHAPTER XVI. Leaving the Army. Experience as a School-Teacher 1 28 CHAPTER XVII. Tax-Collector and Candidate for Legislature 1 34 CHAPTER XVIII. Studying Law in Dubuque 138 CHAPTER XIX. Washington City and its People 142 CHAPTER XX. Washington its Romantic and Material Elements 150 CHAPTER XXI. Impeachment of Pres't Johnson. Leaving the Internal Revenue Office 158 CHAPTER XXII. Official and Personal Experiences in Missouri 164 CHAPTER XXIII. Decoration-Day at Jefferson Barracks 1 70 CHAPTER XXIV. Effort to Obtain a Foreign Mission. Oration at an Emancipation Cele- bration 177 CHAPTER XXV. The Pacific Coast. Experiences and Incidents in California, Oregon and Washington Territory 1 86 CHAPTER XXVI. Return from California. Visit to Brigham Young. Pen Sketches of Old Friends and Associates 216 CHAPTER XXVII. The WhisKey Troubles. Indictment, Trial and Imprisonment. Ad- dress to the Court and jury, etc 237 General F. E. Spinner's Autograph Letter -. 245 General Sherman's Autograph Inscription 247 CHAPTER XXVIII. Prison Reform 267 Fac Simile Letter of Chauncey I. Filley 280 INDEX. 9 CHAPTER XXIX. The Sylph Dispatch , 281 Fac Simile Letter of General Babcock 284 CHAPTER XXX. Pardon and Other Matters 287 Autograph Letter of President Hayes 298 Conclusion , ,,,,, , 300 POETIC WAIFS. Kiss While You Can 303 Katie and 1 204 My Baby's Eyes 304 Twenty Years 305 Dreaming 305 The Sunbeam 306 A Toast 306 God is Near 307 Forgetting 307 Waiting 308 Mattievan 308 Mazy 309 The First Kiss 309 My Little Robins 310 Masonic Bright Light 311 Toll the Bell 312 My War-Hor.,e, "Bob." 312 Ocean M emories 313 When I am Dead 314 The Days are Growing Shorter 314 Oak Hill 3 ! 5 The Attorney-at-Law 3 l6 Unknown 3*7 PREFACE. There is no human life without its lesson. Every bud that grows gives promise of leaf and fruit ; every wind wafted over the ocean of life brings pleasure or pain to some heart. Providence has visited me with a variety of misfortunes, yet like Job I have borne the trials without complaint, and with fortitude waited silently for redemption and peace. This volume is true from beginning to end ; and shows the milestones of a human life that may guide some pilgrim around the quicksands I encountered. The world has misunderstood me in the past ; and now, after eight years of silence, I give for my family, friends and gen- erous hearts, the whole truth of a checkered life. The detailed history of the 24th Kentucky Union Regiment, from Lexington, Shiloh, Perryville, Nashville, Knoxville, Ken- esawMountain and Atlanta is given in full from daily memo- randa made by a soldier who saw and felt the weariness of march and shock of battle. Thousands of living mortals can testify to the veracity of my statements. Seldom has a man of forty run the gauntlet of waif, scholar, lunatic, soldier, schoolmaster, poet, politician, orator, lawyer, prisoner and patriot. He that runs may read, ponder, and beware. J. A. J. I dedicafe cul irjoif : is ^0. JOHN A. JOYCE, Esq., Washington, D. C. Dear Sir : I beg to acknowledge rect ipt of your letter of May iyth, asking me to give you in writing, for publication, a statement " epigrammatically of the philosophy and bravery that impelled my division to resist the bloody encounter of Johnston at Shiloh, and the desperate ma- neuvres of Hood at Atlanta." This is no easy task; and as I have hitherto in reports, publications, letters and speeches given to the public my version of the facts in both these cases, I prefer not to condense any further. In war, success ends all reasonable confroversies. At Shiloh the Union armies were eminently successful as also at Atlanta and there the controversy should end. Historians may dispute the details, and account for results; but I would not ask any man to see with my eyes without having all the witnesses. The printed proceedings of the Army of the Tennessee contain much valuable testimony about both .these events, and I advise you to consult them before completing your work. I wish you all possible success in your undertaking. With respect, Yours truly, W. T. SllKRMAN. CHAPTER VIII. CORINTH AND ALABAMA CAMPAIGN. On the ist of June, 1862, General Halleck had a hundred thousand soldiers in front of Corinth, ready for battle at a mo- ment's warning. Beauregard had retreated to the south, leav- ing the Memphis & Charleston Railroad in possession of the Union forces, who commanded a great portion of the Mobile & Ohio Railroad communications. The armies of Pope, Buell and Grant, commanded by Hal- leck, could have inarched at that time through the Confede- racy, and whipped any army that the enemy could have assem- bled. The colors of the victorious heroes of Shiloh could have been planted over the tall steeples of Vicksburg or Mo- bile. By cutting loose from our base of supply and subsisting off the country, we could have marched and fought through Mississippi, Alabama and South Carolina, unfurling our flag over Charleston. A hundred thousand men can whip in detail twice its num- ber. Courage, discipline, intelligence and superior arms are the pivots upon which great battles are won. Miltiades, at the battle of Marathon, near Athens, more than twenty-three hundred years ago, whipped a hundred thousand Persians with eleven thousand valiant Greeks. The Persians lost six thousand four hundred men, while the Athenian loss was only one hun- dred and ninety-two. The disparity in the losses of the contending armies is ac- counted for by the superior spears, breast-plates, helmets and arrows of the Greeks, combined with their great daring and renowned intelligence. The Persians were only equipped with 68 A CHECKERED LIFE. 69 wicker breast-plates and short spears, and inspired only by the ignoble spirit of cupidity. The army of the Union at Corinth was inspired with the lofty idea of human liberty and the salvation of the Republic, while the enemy could only boast of fighting for their local rights and the liberty to hold four million human beings in abject slavery. Gjd and nature denied them success ; for he who attempts to enslave his fellow man is forging shackles for himself. What Halleck did not do in June, 1862, with a hundred thousand men, Sherman with sixty-two thousand soldiers suc- cessfully performed in November and December, 1864, two years and a half afterwards. He marched to the sea, smash- ing right through the Confederacy, never resting by river, forest or swamp, until he planted the old flag over Savannah, on the morning of December 2ist, 1864. "Oh, proud was our army that morning, That stood where the pine darkly towers, When Sherman said : ' Boys, you are weary, But to-day fair Savannah is ours.' Then sang we a song of our Chieftain, That echoed o'er river and lea, And the stars in our banners shone brighter When Sherman camped down by the sea." The grand army of Halleck broke up in front of Corinth. Pope, with his command, went east ; Grant and Sherman went to the south-west, on the Mississippi line of action ; while Buell and Thomas went north-east, towards Chattanooga and the upper Tennessee. The division of Gen. Wood marched out on the Fannington road on the 2d of June, keeping along the line of the Chat- tanooga Railroad. My regiment proceeded with the com- mand, over bad roads and through pelting rain-storms, passing through luka, a pretty mountain town, on the 4th, and on to Bear River, where the railroad bridge had been previously 70 A CHECKERED Lll-E. destroyed. Lieut. -Colonel James N. Kirpatrick, of the 4oth Indiana, was drowned while performing his duty in rebuilding the bridge. He was a gallant officer, and his unfortunate death cast a shadow of gloom over our whole brigade. The 24th assisted in rebuilding the bridge, which was fin- ished in a few days, making uninterrupted communication for cars back to Corinth and forward to Tuscumbia, where an- other bridge had been destroyed. My regiment was again called into requisition in getting out timbers for the new struct- ure. We remained about Tuscumbia from the i4th of June to the 25th, when the regiment took up its line of march for Decatur, on the Tennessee. The town of Tuscumbia is situated in a delightful location, the surrounding hills and lovely valleys, stretching away to the distant horizon, filling the eye and heart with peace and beauty. The largest spring in the United States bubbles up from an abrupt hill adjacent to the town. It is wide and deep enough to float a steamboat to the Tennessee, some eight miles away. The water is clear and pure, being used by the citizens for drinking purposes. The march from Tuscumbia to Decatur led through peace- ful valleys and fertile fields, where corn and wheat grew in luxuriant profusion, nature presenting at every turn abundant harvests and smiling plains, leaving war and its desolating track to man and his vaulting ambition. On the 2yth of June we crossed the Tennessee River on a gun-boat, and marched east some six miles, where the division camped for rest and drill, remaining about two weeks. The location of the camp was all that soldiers could wish. A fine old forest stretched away to the Tennessee River in primitive beauty, and a large number of crystal springs bubbled up from the ground, cool and refreshing as the dews of morning. On the 4th of July a large number of Wood's division as- sembled at the headquarters of Garfield's brigade, to hear its eloquent commander discourse upon the Declaration of Inde- pendence, the Revolutionary War, and the heroic sons of .-/ CHECKERED LIFE. 71 Revolutionary sires who still battled for the perpetuity of the Republic. The speech of Gen. Garfield revived memories cf home and friends; and as the soldier went bark on the wings of imagination to his northern fireside, a thrill of patri- otic inspiration for his country and flag found continual echo in the hearty cheers that greeted the orator. The army of Gen. Buell was watching the movements of the enemy under Gen. Braxton Bragg, and as that officer be- gan to move into Tennessee, the Union forces broke up camp, passed through Huntsville, Alabama, on the 13111 and i4th of July, and on the i6th camped near Shelby ville. From there the 24th passed through Wartrace, camping near by for a few days, and thence to Tullahoma, marching out occa- sionally to reconnoiter for the enemy or procure forage for the horses and provisions for the men. While in camp at Wartrace, on the 28th of July, I was sent for and appeared at the tent of Col. Grigsby, the regimental Commander. He informed me that I had been recommended for Adjutant of the 24th, and ordered me to take charge of the reports, books and papers, at once. This was a pleasant surprise, as I had not sought or expected the distinction and promotion when so many other officers of home influence aspired to fill the important post. The regiment remained at Tullahoma about two weeks, when it struck tents for Manchester, thence to McMinnville and Vervilla, where it drilled, foraged and performed picket duty in hunting the imagined warriors of Bragg, who were reported to be moving about the brush like fire-flies in the Dismal Swamp. The regiment was called into line at all hours of the night. Col. Wagner, the brigade Commander, would dash off with his men as if the Confederacy was on the eve of dissolution, and our warriors were invited to handle the corpse and set a stone over the Great Defunct. It was noth- ing for us to march twenty mile:; in a night, climb the heights of Altamont, ford deep streams, skirmish through dense cedar thickets, and be back the next morning at McMinnville. CHAPTER IX. BRAGG' s RAID AND OTHER KENTUCKY MATTERS. It soon became known that Bragg, with thirty thousand men, had stolen a march on Buell, and was going full tilt for Kentucky and the Ohio River. The Union forces picked up their military accoutrements, and hurried after the Confeder- ates. The army of Buell crossed at Nashville, while that of Bragg passed through Lebanon, and crossed the Cumberland at Gallatin. Then it was a race for Louisville and the blue- grass fields of Kentucky. At Mumfordsville there was a fight, where the marching armies struck together and bounced off to the right and left, like bumping steamers in a river race. Bragg evaded a gen- eral engagement, and Buell seemed anxious to reach Louisville and save the capital city of Kentucky from Confederate occu- pation, rather than push the enemy and force him to battle. The 24th camped near Louisville on the 251)1 of September, and for nearly a week the whole army rested without following Bragg into the interior of the state. On the ist of October, after a reorganization of the army into corps, we marched out on the Bardstown road towards Springfield and Perryville, where the enemy made a desperate stand and suffered a bloody defeat. The troops of McCook and Thomas suffered considerable loss in the fierce attack of Bragg. He had been compelled to make a stand at Perryville, in order to gain time to e-cape through the hills of Rockcastle River and the mountain passes of the Cumberland. Crittenden's corps did not do much in deciding the day at Per.yville, as for some reason the soldiers 72 A CHECKERED LIFE. 73 were kept waiting on the roads and in the woods to the ex- treme right. Gen. Wood's division got on the field about three o'clock. My regiment wheeled into line on a ridge overlooking the battle, and for a considerable time we stood the cannon shot and shrieking shells of the enemy as they retreated from the field. Wagner's brigade advanced in the evening, but it only stumbled over the killed and wounded. Night put an end to the contest. We rested on the outer line of picket-posts, ready for pursuit and battle on the morning of the pth of October. When we advanced, it was found that Bragg had crossed Dix River, leaving his dead and wounded in our hands, and was moving in full flight to the mountains of south-eastern Kentucky. Some of the most gallant soldiers of Kentucky were killed in the battle of Perryville, and none fell with more heroic- grandeur than General James Jackson, of Louisville. He was a noble character, generous as a prince and brave as a lion. His death cast a gloom over the blood-purchased victory, and dimmed the luster of success. He fell in the heat of the fight, \Yhile charging the stubborn foe ; Me died for the Flag and the Right, In the years of the long ago. Buell followed Bragg to Danville, Stanford, Mount Vernon, and on to Rockcastle River thence to Wild Cat, London, and to the ford of Cumberland River. In many places Bragg cut down tall trees, throwing them across the mountain roads. Our progress was thus interrupted, and as the enemy were moving out of Kentucky, the Union troops were recalled from the chase, and leisurely retraced their steps to Tennessee. While the troops were moving among the Rockcastle hills, it was difficult to get a square meal, as our commissary stores had been left behind in the race after Bragg. The whole army had been chucked into a mountain gorge, as it were a rugged region where farmers were scarce, and provisions almost ex- 74 A CHECKERED LIFE. hausted. What the enemy did not consume on the route, the Union soldiers devoured in their hungry raids. I remember one morning at Rockcastle Ford, giving a sol- dier a two-dollar and a half pocket-knife for a single hard- tack cracker, and then dividing it with one of my comrades. The 24th returned to Mt. Vernon, Crab Orchard Springs and Stanford thence to Danville, Columbia and Glasgow where it camped for a time to straighten up and discipline the men, who were becoming very restless at leaving Kentucky again before seeing their families. On the 29th of October, 1862, Colonel L. B. Grigsby was placed in command of the 2ist Brigade, by Gen. Thomas J. Wood, leaving Hurt in command of the regiment. Great dissatisfaction existed among the men. A number of soldiers deserted while the regiment was at Glasgow, and for some un- known reason Col. Hurt was temporarily displaced by General Wood, leaving the command of the 24th to Capt. Hector H. Scoville, a solid mountain patriot. From Glasgow the regi- ment proceeded to Scottsville and Gallatin, crossing the Cum- berland River to Lebanon and Silver Springs, on the road to Stone River and Nashville. After commanding the brigade for three weeks, Col. Grigsby returned to the regiment, and at once proceeded to strengthen its shattered ranks. He went to Nashville and secured an order from Gen. Rosecrans to proceed with his command to Ken- tucky and report to the commander of that department. The regiment went by rail from Nashville to Louisville, on the 27th of November, and arrived at Lexington on the ist of Decem- ber. Through the months of December, '62, and January, '63, the 24th recruited its depleted ranks, camping a great portion of the time on the high hills overlooking the Ken- tucky River at Frankfort. Gen. Gilbert, of Ohio, commanded the district of Frank- fort, and regimental reports were made to him. Col. Grigsby was placed in immediate command of the city post, and for a time his headquarters were at the Governor's mansion. He A CHECKERED LIFE. 75 had married the beautiful daughter of Gov. J. F. Rol)i. and an invitation was extended to the gallant Colonel to make his headquarters, personally and officially, at the residence of the patriotic Governor. I acted as regimental and post Adjutant, doing double duty, and put in a good portion of my time in social communion with the beautiful girls that cluster about the hospitable homes of Frankfort. Evening dress-parade was an occasion when all the pomp of military glory presented itself to the heart and eyes of buoyant boys and glorious girls. The Adjutant, with his trim military cut, bright buttons, golden shoulder-straps and flashing sword, presents a picture of dash and elegance to the hearts of susceptible sweethearts. About the latter part of January, 1863, many of those who had been absent, with and without leave, returned to the regi- ment and took their places in the ranks of honorable soldiers. I dislike very much to make excuses for soldiers who desert their post of duty ; but a statement in connection with the men who took French leave would seem to be just, under the peculiar circumstances surrounding the case in point. In the fall of '62 and winter of '63, the proclamation of President Lincoln freeing all the slaves was talked up and pro- mulgated. Many of the men of my regiment were directly or indirectly interested in slave property; and thus, while they had arms in their hands, fighting for the integrity of the Union, one scratch of the President's pen took away forever their property, placing them in the same category with the men who rebelled against the Government. This fact made many of the people of Kentucky lukewarm in their support of the Union, and was the cause of bitter abuse against North- ern politicians who could be so cruel as to take, without any compensation, the property of loyal men who were bleeding on the field of battle for the perpetuity of the old flag. In addition to this source of dissatisfaction, the majority of my regiment were raised in north-eastern Kentucky, where rebel guerrillas overran their homes in the winter of '63, while 7 6 A CHECKERED LIFE. they were at the front. Houses were burned down, corn-fields laid waste, fences destroyed, relatives outraged and murdered, while wives and children were driven out in the woods and fields, to die of exposure and starvation. These cruelties were communicated by letter, day after day, to sons, brothers and husbands, who were unable to succor the loved ones at home ; and, as the Government did not protect the families of the men who were fighting its battles, the natural love of home prevailed, and under the pressure of self-preservation, a num- ber of the men scattered to their homes in the mountains, left some money with their families, re-established worldly matters, and then returned to the ranks. If there ever was an excuse for desertion, the loyal men of Kentucky whose houses were destroyed and property taken, not only by the Government but by the enemy could lay claim to every mitigating cir- cumstance. After remaining more than a month at Frankfort, the regi- ment went to Louisville on the 28th of January, with increased numbers, ar.d camped on the Oaklands, awaiting orders to reinforce Gen. Rosecrans on the Cumberland. Gen. Gordon Granger was in command at Louisville, dispatching all avail- able troops to the front. While waiting transportation by boat, the men of the regiment again became demoralized at the thought of leaving the state, and the camp-scenes were more in keeping with the acts of a mob than that of well dis- ciplined troops. Col. Hurt became disgusted, and resigned, but was prevailed upon to withdraw his resignation. We re- mained a week in the metropolitan city of Kentucky. CHAFFER X. LOUISVILLE EXPERIENCES. Many funny and curious scenes transpired about the camp, and in the homes of the rushing city. I became acquainted with a very beautiful Southern belle, whose family was of the best blood in the state. She had two brothers in the army : one with Morgan, righting for the "stars and bars," and the other with Rosecrans, fighting for the "stars and stripes." The father was old, and bowed down with grief at the terrible scenes transpiring around him, while the mother's mild man- ner sent a glow of love and peace through the household. A social party was given at the mansion one evening, and I was invited to attend. On my arrival, I found a large num- ber of well-dressed guests, gray colors predominating, I being the only blue-uniformed individual present. Dancing, song and feasting were indulged in until midnight, when, to cap the climax, Miss Ella asked the privilege of singing and playing the "Bonnie Blue Flag." As the tune had been filched from Yankeeland, and as I had heard "Dixie," another Yankee air, played in the heat of battle and more particularly as I was not fighting against women and children I interposed no objection. The beautiful young lady threw all her soul in the so-called rebel air, and out in the midnight silence it sounded as if the belles of Richmond were in chorus with the whole Confed- eracy. Great applause greeted the performance, but the cheers had not died away when a provost-marshal with a squad of soldiers broke m upon the festivities, and arrested the whole party for treasonable conduct. Everybody became alarmed at 77 7 8 A CHECKERED LIFE. the predicament, the proprietor of the house seeing nothing but Camp Chase or Fort Lafayette, with their ponderous jaws ready to receive him. In this emergency, I replied to the arrest and taunts of the bluff captain, saying that I alone was responsible for the sing- ing of the treasonable song, having requested the young lady to render the air for the social pleasure of the guests. He re- plied that if that was the case, I should go with him at once to headquarters, where my conduct would be reported ; and as I took the responsibility of the song, I should suffer what- ever penalty might be inflicted by the Government. I bade the host and hostess good night, leaving them to their liberty and social cheer, thus sacrificing myself for the good of other mortals. When I reached the commanding officer, who had authority and common sense, I explained that it was all a piece of fun and pleasantry, and a magnanimous thought on my part, to gratify an enthusiastic girl who desired to sing a few notes in honor of the Southern cause. The Confederacy always received my blows on the field of battle, but in the gloom of defeat I extended my hand and the generous words of a soldier to a fallen foe. I was not in favor of a parlor war, only striking those with arms in their hands. The next day I called at the mansion and relieved the anx- iety of the household by informing them that the commanding officer of Louisville had released me from arrest, while the superserviceable officer received no encomiums for his great energy and intense loyalty in breaking into a private house to disturb innocent festivities. A few nights after this occurrence, I stumbled on one still more ridiculous. Capt. Gill, Lieut. Mclntyre and myself had been at the Louisville Theater, to see Maggie Mitchell in her charming play of "Fanchon." Before returning to camp, after the close of the performance, I proposed that we go to Walker's restaurant for refreshments. This proposition was readily agreed to, and without delay we repaired to the festive resort and ordered a fine bird supper. The small rooms, fitted A CHECKERED LIFE. 79 for four persons, were well patronized that night, and the thin sheeting partitions could not shut out the voices or words of the respective occupants. During the supper, a friend of Mc- I ityre joined him, a citizen from the "blue-grass" region who got into an argument with " Mac," on the proprieties of the war. Champagne went down, and loud words quickly came up, until at last ]VIcIntyre made a lunge at the friend of his youth, knocked him against the panels of the small room, and down with a crash went the whole side on the elaborate supper of Major-General Gordon Granger and his staff officers. Excite- ment ran high, and Granger's face looked like a thunder-cloud that had been split up by lightning. He knew me, but did not kno'.v my companions. The suppers were destroyed; Mc- Intyre and the citizen were finally separated, the lights turned out, and we were ordered to our camps under arrest, to report at the Gait House the next morning at ten o'clock. Granger and his officers were very jolly that night before we threw down the side of the stall on their supper, and I am con- vinced that our superiors were as much influenced by fumes from Bacchus as we were. It was about two o'clock when we got into the street ; and while we had been peremptorily ordered to camp, three miles away, and in a keen, frosty night, I proposed that as we had to report to Granger at ten o'clock in the morning, we go to the hotel, take a good rest and breakfast, and face the military music like men, which proposition was adopted. Promptly at the appointed hour we put in an appearance at the Gait House. Granger was not yet out of bed. We told his orderly our mission., and asked him to inform the General. While waiting, it was agreed that I should do the talking and pleading, and that "the boys" should assent to every excuse I made for our conduct of the previous night. We were soon admitted, and found Granger sitting up in bed with his legs dangling over the side. We saluted, as became good respect- ful officers, and he said: "Young men, you were drunk last 8o A CHECKERED LJEE. night. I am ashamed and astonished to see officers of the army conduct themselves in such a disgraceful manner." I replied that we never drank, and before we left home we had each made a solemn pledge to our sweethearts that for the period of three years, or during the war, we would not taste. smell or handle ardent spirits. Granger looked astonished, and asked Gill and Mclntyre if my statement was true. They held up their hands in ear- nest asseveration, and testified firmly to the truth of what I had uttered. The General arose immediately from the bed, proceeded to the mantel-piece, took therefrom a half-filled bottle of Bourbon whiskey and glasses, and said : " Gentle- men, you are the most magnificent liars it has ever been my lot to behold. Your coolness and audacity deserve a reward, and I shall take it as a great favor if you will condescend to join me in a glass of old Bourbon." I replied that his request was equal to an order ; and, as we had sworn to obey all orders of our superior officers, the pledge we gave our sweethearts must give way to the rules of war ; and however reluctant we might be to violate the obligations of love, we could not, with self-respect, decline to comply with the promptings of patriotism and duty. We parted with mutual respect for each other. I believe that the General who takes a social glass with his staff is no worse than the soldier who empties a canteen with his comrade on the hot and dusty march. I shall never forget the Pick- wickian look and quizzical smile of Granger on that occasion. He was certainly a generous character, and had the philosophy and common sense not to rebuke too severely the conduct in another which characterized himself. " The hand and heart will show the noble mind ; A lellow feeling makes us wondrous kind." On the 3d of February, 1863, the regiment embarked for Nashville, on the steamer Woodside, leaving Kentucky very reluctantly. Capt. Gill and myself remained behind, and A CHECKERED LI1-E. 81 followed by rail a few days later, to the City of Rocks. From there we proceeded in search of the regiment down the Cum- berland River, on the steamer Hazel Dell, landing at Clarks- ville, and riding through the enemy's country to Bowling Green, where we took the railroad for Nashville, arriving at the regiment's camp on the Franklin Pike, near the suburbs of the city, on the iyth of the month. An expedition under Gen. Crook was projected to the upper waters of the Cumberland, where he could watch the move- ments of Bragg, and protect Kentucky from sudden invasion. On the 22d day of February my regiment, with other troops, moved out of camp and embarked on steamers ready to trans- port us up the river. We went on the steamers Belfast and Delaware, several boats being in the flotilla. Winding our way slowly among the bluffy banks of the mountain river, we arrived at Carthage, some fifty miles or more from Nashville. The regiment disembarked on the ayth, and pitched tents on a fine bluff overlooking the river. We remained about a month around Carthage, foraging, skirmishing, marching and recon- noitering toward the camps of the enemy. Several fights oc- curred between our advanced posts and the raiding troops of the Confederates, and many prisoners were taken on both sides, while several soldiers were killed and wounded. Col. Grigsby had been quietly working to procure the trans- fer of the regiment to the Department of Kentucky, in order that he might put forth another effort to recruit its broken ranks. An order finally came from Gen. Crook, directing us to report to Gen. Gilmore, at Lexington, Ky. ; and on the 2ist of March we embarked on the Fanny Miller, and pro- ceeded down the river with light hearts, ariving at Nashville the next day, where we made preparations to transfer the men to the steamer Sultana, bound for Louisville. On the 24th, the Sultana got under way, passing Clarksville, Fort Donelson, and out into the beautiful Ohio, passed Smith- land and Evansville, arriving in Louisville at five o'clock on the morning of the 2yth. 6 82 A CHECKERED LIFE. The ill-fated Sultana was afterwards destroyed by an explo- sion on the Mississippi River, while carrying two thousand soldiers, a large number of whom were burned and drowned by the fearful catastrophe. The loss of life was the greatest recorded in steamboating annals. The regiment proceeded at once to Frankfort and Lexing- ton, reporting to Gen. Gilmore, who ordered us to Mt. Ster- ling on a raid after the enemy. We got into Mt. Sterling on Sunday, the 29th, but Col. -duke, the Confederate commander, had scampered away towards the mountains. We followed the daring raider as far as Owingsville, killing and wounding a few of his men, and taking a number of prisoners. When the regiment marched through the streets of Owings- ville and stacked arms in front of the old court-house, the measure of my ambition was full. A little more than a year before, I had left the town a private soldier, and now returned to the haunts and scenes of my boyhood as an Adjutant. And what gave poetic zest to my heart and soul, was the fact that the beautiful girl I loved most stood at her father's gate as the regiment marched by. A detachment of the command pursued Cluke to Licking River, where the chase was given up. Loyal citizens enter- tained the regiment in fine style, feasting the boys in blue Avith all the good things at command. What a medley of contradictions war produces ! The day before our arrival in Owingsville, Cluke, Stoner, Ewing, Ev- eret and their men, who wore the gray, were entertained with as much love and patriotism as the most gallant defender of the old flag. It certainly was a cruel war, founded in slavery and begun in the heat of party spirit. While fighting against my schoolmates and friends, I could not but regret the deplo- rable situation that made it necessary to cast aside all personal considerations in the larger element of National preservation. The greater always includes the less ; and, while 1 had the utmost respect for the local rights of the states, I could not quietly stand by and see the stars and stripes torn down from A CHECKERED LIFE. 83 the battlements of Fort Sumpter without lifting my arm in its defense. The regiment retraced its steps to Mt. Sterling through a driving snow-storm, and on the ist of April camped in a locust grove adjacent to the town. Col. Grigsby was in command of all the troops in the place. For a week, drilling and scout- ing parties made things lively among the hills of Montgomery. I visited rnany old friends that I knew in school-boy days, and although some of them sympathized with the Southern cause, they betrayed no enmity to me, but opened their hearts and homes for my reception. A number of prisoners were captured and brought into camp during our rendezvous at Mt. Sterling. I remember the case of Capt. Alf. Bascom, of Bath county, who belonged to Cluke's command, and had been captured by Lieut. Julius Miller, while on a raid on Slate Creek. Bascom was very much alarmed at his prospect of be- ing sent to Camp Chase, and were it not for my intercession, combined with the former friendship of Col. Hurt, he would certainly have gone. Clarke Bascom, his brother, was a Union man, and to show our regard for his good faith in sticking to the government when his relatives went into the rebellion we released the Confederate captain on his parole of honor. I took dinner one evening at the house of Mrs. Emily Barnes, in company with her talented daughter Julia, and a number of her loyal sons were also present. Howard Barnes was my favorite among all the boys who went to school at the old Highland Seminary. He was generous to a fault, manly in his actions, musical and witty, and had the rare faculty of making and keeping friends. " Billy," another brother, was more impulsive, but true to his word, and brave under all cir- cumstances. Mrs. Barnes had been my friend when I was a poor boy hunting for education, and her lovely daughter often taught me music. Emily Barnes was a splendid woman. Her hand and heart went out to the poor and needy, and when the downcast and weary were turned from the doors of the opu- lent, they could always rely on her benevolence and support. 84 A CHECKERED LIFE. The grass of many long years has grown upon her grave, and the flowers of spring have come and gone with the changing seasons, since last I beheld her charitable face ; yet, in the choicest nooks of memory she is venerated by thousands for her noble acts performed in the interests of humanity. The motto of her life can be summed up in the following beautiful stanza from the Universal Prayer of Pope : " Teach me to feel another's woe, To hide the fault I see ; That mercy I to others show, That mercy show to me." On the yth of April, the regiment struck tents and moved out on the pike towards Winchester ; thence marched to Rich- mond, to Crab Orchard, and on to Mt. Vernon, where the brigade of Gen. Gilbert was encamped. We remained here a few days, and then moved up into the Wild Cat hills as an out- post for the brigade, which continued to camp at Mt. Vernon. A number of raiding parties from the Cumberland River dashed about London and Barboursville, giving us a great deal of trouble. Capt. Stough with a command of mounted men caught up with some of these daring raiders on the 2jd of April, near Williamsburg, and killed and captured quite a num- ber. The 24th was ordered to his support, and by a hurried march we dashed over the rolling Wild Cat hills and entered the town of London early the next morning, moving out on the mountain road leading to Williamsburg. We chased the enemy across the Cumberland River to Seven Mills, where they were lost and scattered in the mountains. The whole command returned to London, where we camped and scouted for about two weeks. From this place we were ordered to fall back on the impreg- nable hills of Wild Cat, overlooking the brawling waters of Rockcastle River. From the 1 5th of May to the i5th of July, 1863, the regiment encamped on the Very topmost height of the bold ridge where, in the fall of 1861, Col. Garred made A CHECKERED LIFE. 85 such a gallant stand against the enemy. Raiding and foraging parties were continually sent out by Col. Grigsby, who reported the movements of the Confederate forces to Gen. Gilbert, at Mt. Vernon. About this time, I was detailed to proceed to Somerset and report for duty on a court-martial convened for the purpose of trying Lieut. Lee, of the 24th, for drunkenness, and also such other officers as might come before the court. I finished my duty in a few days, and returned to Mt. Vernon. The regiment broke up camp from the Wild Cat Pass on the 5th of July, and marched to Mt. Vernon, joining the brigade, which proceeded to Crab Orchard, Stanford, Camp Nelson, Camp Dick Robinson, and thence to Danville, where General Burnside was massing an army of ten thousand men to pene- trate into East Tennessee, capture the railroad communication of the enemy, and thus wrench the backbone of the crumbling rebellion. A more perfect organization of the various regiments took place at Danville. Drilling and dress-parade came off every day, and a large number of ladies and gentlemen visited the parade-grounds every evening and witnessed the " pomp and circumstance of glorious war." I received a leave of absence for five days, and went to Frankfort to engage Capt. Denny Healy as the leader of our regimental band. A number of men were employed and mustered in for the band, and some fine silver instruments were bought in New York by the officers of the regiment. Capt. Healy, the leader, was a young Irish- man, who devoted his life and talents to music. He could compose and play almost any kind of music, and was what might be called a musical prodigy. He remained in the regi- ment nearly two years, and did a great deal to inspire its dis- cipline and minister to the pleasure of the command. After the war he settled in Louisville, organized a city band, and was very successful in his chosen profession. CHAPTER XI. KNOXV1LLE EXPEDITION. Before leaving for the East Tennessee expedition, Col. L. B. Grigsby resigned his commission, (July i6th, 1863,) on account of business and bad health. Col. J. S. Hurt then took com- mand of the regiment, remaining to the close of the war. On the i yth of August, the regiment moved to Stanford and Crab Orchard, and thence to Somerset, where our brigade (the 2d, commanded by Gen. Daniel Cameron, in Haskell's Division,) crossed the Cumberland River on the 23d. We were now fairly pointed for East Tennessee, with hot, dusty days, rugged mountain roads and brawling streams before us. The passage of the Cumberland, at Smith's ferry, was a very difficult undertaking by the assembled army of Gen. Burnside. On the south side of the rapid stream we were compelled to haul up the wagons and artillery by ropes grasped in the hands of a thousand men. When all was ready, we began a weary march through an unknown country that had been occupied by the enemy since the beginning of hostilities. A trail of twelve days in the mountains lay before us ere we could tap the railroad near Knoxville, and sever Confederate communication from Rich- mond to the south-west. Our wagon trains did not get up on the night of the 23d until twelve o'clock, and the soldiers had to camp out on the bare, rocky earth, with nothing to cover them save overhanging branches. The air was chilly, and the starlight shone down on the sleeping camp with a cold gleam. Bright and early in the morning twilight we proceeded on the 86 A CHECKERED LIFE. 87 rough march to Jacksburg, traveling over narrow, rocky roads that almost defied the passage of wagons and mules. We be- gan to ascend the spurs of the Cumberland Mountains, wind- ing our way over a back-bone ridge, until we crossed the rapid waters of New River. In many instances, over the mountain plateau, we passed fifteen and twenty miles without a sign of human, habitation. One vast wilderness stretched away to the horizon, only broken by lowering clouds that settled on the bosom of that upland sea of emerald beauty. On the 29th and 3oth of August we passed over the topmost peaks of the mountains, and camped some ten miles from the town of Montgomery, situated near the southern base of the mountain range. The sight from the tops of the Cumberland Mountains was grand and inspiring. Bold, bare rocks shot out against the sky like huge ships upon a raging sea. Deep, dark chasms yawned in majestic horror upon the eye of the traveler, and the thundering roar of some far-off falls broke upon the ear like the rush of a mighty wind sweeping over a primeval forest. The Cumberland looked magnificent. " Its uplands sloping decked the mountain side, Woods over woods, in gay theatric pride." But to the romantic soul filled with unutterable admiration, the gloaming, the starlight and the moonlight must intermin- gle to bring out in bold relief the beauty and grandeur of mountain scenery. One moonlight night I stood upon one of the wildest and highest peaks of the Cumberland, the sigh- ing pines singing to the stars, the crickets chirping at my feet, and the sound of dashing cascades carried on the wings of the night, while the "bright and burning blazonry of God" glit- tered in their eternal depths, and lit up the green mountain tops with a glow of celestial light. At such a moment the soul communes with its Creator; and while we may, perhaps, doubt the reason of prayers, creeds and churches, the most unreasoning man cannot deny the ex- istence of a God, in the vast and mysterious realm spread out 88 A CHECKERED LIFE. before him in air, water, earth and sky ! Those majestic mountain tops were not called into being and clothed with a rich eternal verdure by chance. Those crystal springs and flowing rivers did not rise and meander to the sea without some grand design. The blue heavens above were not spread out in illimitable magnificence, and dotted all over with shining worlds, without a plan. No ! God lives in every breeze that wafts over the earth; shines in every star that glitters in the blue vault of heaven ; sings with every warbler that flutters in the forest ; breathes in every fragrant flower ; and when the mortals of this transient life have lived out their little span, they mingle again, for some mysterious end, with the compo- nent parts of earth, and sink back into some grand omnipo- tence, great and eternal ! * * The troops passed through Montgomery on the last day of August, to the undulating plains of East Tennessee, the " promised land" of loyalty. Montgomery at that time might well be compared to the Deserted Village of Goldsmith. Its inhabitants lived in rural comfort before the rebellion, sur- rounded by smiling fields and productive vineyards, that deck- ed the upland sunny slopes. These mountain people we r c loyal to the flag, and when the tocsin of war sounded, they fled to the North as refugees, in search of peace and protection against the plantation "chivalry," who made it too hot for Union men to live in the atmosphere of slavery and Confed- erate conscription. In going through the village, I did not see a single living mortal ; but the torn roofs, broken fences, rotten doors, creak- ing sign-boards, straggling hedges, tall weeds, blowing this- tles, hanging cobwebs, and "swallows twittering from their straw-built shed," betokened decay, desolation and death. " Sweet, smiling village, loveliest of the lawn, Thy sports are fled, and all thy charms withdrawn; Amidst thy bowers the tyrant's hand is seen, And desolation saddens all thy green. A CHECKERED LIFE. 89 Sunk are thy bowers in shapeless ruin all, And the long grass o'ertops the mouldering wall; And trembling, shrinking from the spoiler's hand, Far, far away thy children leave the land." I left Montgomery, and looked back with a sigh upon the straggling village, as the setting sun shone on the dilapidated homes of those loyal hearts who forfeited all but truth and honor in their devotion to the old flag. For four days the army toiled over rough roads and rapid streams, towards Kingston and Knoxville. Reports came in that the enemy had evacuated these places, and withdrawn into Georgia and Virginia. About four o'clock on the after- noon of the 4th of September, my regiment struck the East Tennessee Railroad at Lenoir, a small station south of Knox- ville. The Holston and Little Tennessee Rivers form the main arm of the Tennessee, which wanders away for more than five hundred miles in its course to the sea. A thrill of satisfaction and triumph pervaded the ranks of the army when the shrill blast of the iron horse came echoing down the road from Knoxville. We felt that our long, weary march through the mountains had not been in vain, and that the "stars and stripes," though often torn down and insulted, would yet wave in glory and peace over a united land. The possession of Tennessee by the Union army compelled the Confederate commanders to shift their base of operations farther south, and thus shorten the space that intervened be- tween them and the Atlantic Ocean. I could see, even at that time, that fate and fortune frowned upon the Confederacy, and while many battles remained to be fought, every Union soldier was confident of ultimate success. Lingering at Lenoir for a couple of days to rest, the regi- ment took up its line of march for Concord, a village fifteen miles south of Knoxville, where we pitched tents in a pleasant grove, and enjoyed the ease of camp life for a week, making friends of the loyal people, who flocked in from the surround- ing country to behold their Union deliverers. 9 o A CHECKERED LIFE. Gen. Burnside projected an expedition towards the Virginia line, in search of the enemy, who fled at his approach. March- ing orders were received, and on the i5th of September, for the first time, we passed through Knoxville, the capital city of East Tennessee, the home of Parson Brownlow and Horace Maynard, both of whom have since mingled their loyal dust with that of the state they saved to the Union. The regiment marched through the town with banners fly- ing, drums beating, horns blowing, and hearts throbbing to the music of freedom. We reached Strawberry Plains in due time, and camped at Panther Springs ; from there proceeded to Morristown, on the railroad, where Gen. Burnside came up and made a cheering speech to the citizens, who assembled at the depot to hear his patriotic words. The command moved on to Greenville, the home of Vice President Andrew Johnson. This beautiful village is situated amid a circle of rolling hills, the huge forms of the Smoky Mountains looming up in the distance, separating Tennessee from North Carolina. Over these rugged mountains a few years before, crossing the French Broad and the rapid Holston, wandered a poor, penniless boy in search of work and fortune. He met kind friends in the mountain town of Greenville, v/ho cared for his immediate wants, and secured for him a place on the bench of a tailor-shop, where he could master the trade and support himself by honest labor. The boy was very apt, and soon in- gratiated himself into the affections of all who knew him. He had never gone to school, and felt the want of education. A kind and loving friend, who afterwards became his wife, un- dertook the task of instructing the young tradesman in the rudiments of education. His advance in knowledge was rapid, for God had stamped the rustic mountaineer with an extraor- dinary brain, which was backed by indomitable pluck and never-failing energy. He had the ambition of Alexander and tenacity of General Jackson. No clouds or storms could ob- scure the sunbeams of his heart, or twist him from a purpose he had once formed. The people trusted him, and believed A CHECKERED LIFE. 9 i in his manly honesty. From the lap-board and iron of the tailor, he rose 'to the position of Alderman, Member of the Legislature, Governor, Congressman, Senator, Vice President, and finally, through the horrible death of our noble and be- loved LINCOLN, put on the Presidential robes and became the Chief Magistrate of the Republic. I went into the small brick tailor shop where "Andy John- son' ' once made trowsers for the people of Greenville ; and I thought deeply on the startling changes of this mysterious life. We rise and fall like bubbles on a stormy sea. The last become first, and the first become last. * * The enemy was reported in force at Center Station, near the Wataga River, and early Sunday morning our command moved off for Jonesboro and Johnson Station. Some slight skirmish- ing occurred, three of our men being killed and wounded by the cavalry of the enemy that lay in ambush near the road. Near the banks of the Wataga the enemy had erected a fort. Gen. Burnside came to the front in person, and a reconnoiter- ing party was thrown out, when considerable firing occurred. A flag of truce was sent in by the commanding General for the capitulation of the place, and as there was no response to it, my regiment was ordered to charge the redoubt. We went towards the ridge with a yell ; but, to our chagrin, the enemy had fled, leaving nothing but two dismantled cannon. We followed up the retreating force towards Bristol, on the Vir- ginia line, but shortly began a retrograde movement towards Knoxville, abandoning all the towns and posts we had previ- ously occupied. It was said that the Confederate General Crittenden, of Kentucky, and the gallant Cerro Gordo Williams were in command of the troops that fled towards Virginia; but, be this as it may, our expedition proved fruitless, and we finally returned, to be pent up in Knoxville, besieged by Gen. Long- street. CHAPTER XII. THE SIEGE OF KNOXVILLE. On Sunday, the 27th of September, the 24th encamped on our old ground at Concord, one of the outposts of Knoxville. We remained at this delightful post until the 3oth of October, when we were ordered to Knoxville, and encamped on the south side of Holston River, on a circle of quite abrupt hills, which we proceeded to fortify. The right of my regiment lay on the bluff hills of the Marysville road. The prospect seemed to be that we might have to remain all winter among these hills; and with this end in view, orders were given to erect snug log houses in company rows, leaving sufficient space be- tween each cabin and company for sanitary purposes and com- pany formations. When the cabins were completed, the ten rows with their uniform construction had all the appearance of regular bar- racks. The field officers had hospital tents erected on the apex of the hill, commanding a view of all that transpired in camp, and at the same time securing a fine sight of the valley looking south. I was detailed by Gen. Hascall, the Division Commander, in conjunction with Capts. Kennedy and Runkle, of the 65th Illinois, to meet at headquarters and proceed as a " board of survey," to condemn the various transportation material and quartermaster stores submitted to us by Capt. T. W. Fry. We finished our labors in a few days, condemning property to the amount of over a million dollars. I wrote the report, which we all signed, after which we returned to our respective regi- ments. A CHECKERED LIFE. 93 Fortifications were being rapidly thrown up on each side of the Holston River, and Fort Sanders, a strong field-work on the north side, was looming up into impregnable proportions. Longstreet was reported at Loudon, making his way towards the Tennessee, at Kingston, with an army of twenty-five thou- sand men devoted to the defeat or capture of Burnside's sixteen thousand isolated soldiers. The outposts of Burnside were soon driven inside the earthworks that had hastily been thrown up around Knoxville. Longstreet surrounded the town on the 1 7th of November, with a cordon of confident warriors who had often known success on many hard-fought fields on the Potomac. Instead of stopping to skirmish and throw buncomb shells after the boys in blue, and hesitating at a large brick house on the hill-top to the south-west of the city, the Confederate commander should have formed his advancing columns into the shape of a wedge and hurled the mass, at all hazard, against the wavering army that occupied the newly made breastworks. Had he done this, the entire army of Burnside would have been dispersed, captured, or killed ; and the loyal city could have been left a mass of smouldering ruins and ashes. But Long^reet let the opportune moment pass, and every hour afterward his chances for success became less, while the besieged troops became stronger and more confident to resist until succor came from Grant and Sherman, whose daring sol- diers had recently defeated and routed the veterans of Bragg on the bold heights of Missionary Ridge and above the clouds at Lookout Mountain. A succession of daily skirmishes took place while the enemy worked up to our breastworks, by rifle-pits, parallels and bat- teries, coming at last within a hundred yards of our strongest redoubts. On the south side of the river Generals Law and Robertson had posted their brigades, along a bold ridge, their left resting on a rocky bluff abutting on the river, while the right extended towards the Marysville road, where Wheeler's cavalry had driven in our mounted men. General Hascall's 94 A CHECKERED LIFE. division confronted the Confederates, our right resting on a parallel ridge. The brigade of Gen. Daniel Cameron occu- pied the right of the division, and the 24th Kentucky stood behind rifle-pits in the woods on the extreme right of the brigade, having the place of danger and honor. The Confederate lines were being tightened from day to day around Knoxville, like a huge boa-constrictor about its prey. On the 24th of November, the enemy kept up a sharp fire on our advanced line. Sidney Gobbart, of Company "A," was killed by a sharp-shooter. The regiment remained in the trenches all day, and made occasional sorties. Capts. Barber and Hall, with their respective companies, advanced on the skirmish-line of the enemy, driving it back on the main col- umn, occupying the ridge a thousand yards across a ravine to our front. These companies were in turn forced to retreat to their original position by the superior force of the enemy. A number of advanced sharpshooters kept up a galling fire during the day, and it was worth a man's life to expose his body. Several of our men had been wounded by a gray- headed Georgian who had burrowed himself at the roots of an old tree, and I was anxious to get a shot at him. To this end I crawled out to our front vidette, who had been exchanging fruitless shots with the Confederate. I took a Springfield rifle from the soldier, and laid my plans to get a good shot at the defiant game who had killed and wounded our men without exposing himself. I could see the spot from whence came the death-dealing missiles ; and crawling up to the point of a jut- ting rock, I took- off my cap, placed it on a stick, and slowly moved it into an exposed position, when, quick as a flash, a bullet went through it, and I let it fall to the earth as if the head of a soldier went down to death. The Confederate, be- lievi^s that he had killed the man in his immediate front, did not exercise his usual caution in reloading his gun, but exposed two-thirds of his shoulder and breast in the operation. I took a dead aim from the rock where I lay, and pulled the trigger. A flash a groan a lurch, throwing up the hands and one A CHECKERED LIFE. 95 of our most dangerous foes had passed over the River of Time. Our main line was advanced during the day, and as a matter of curiosity I went to the roots of the gnarled oak and found the sharpshooter with a bullet through his right breast, calm and peaceful in the sleep of death. I had some of my men bury the old warrior at the foot of the oak, which served for a monument. He had lived his allotted span, and I have no doubt that his .last breath was offered up on what he deemed the altar of patriotism. On Wednesday, Nov. 25th, 1863, we noticed a great com- motion among the Confederate troops occupying the heights. Early in the morning the artillery opened fire on our earth- works in the woods, shells bursting over our heads in rapid succession, smashing tree-tops that fell into our wavering ranks, while solid shot shrieked over the ridge, tearing up trees and earth as if a cyclone had started on its mission of death. We knew the terrible artillery fire was the precursor of a charge by the enemy, and while our guns feebly replied, we kept a keen watch across an old field that lay between us and the foe. Suddenly there emerged from the opposite ridge a gray line of battle, two columns deep, with flags flying, bayonets glis- tening, and coming right across the field with that confidence born of assured success, while the artillery from the heights poured a stream of shot and shell into our ranks. We were ordered to reserve our fire until the enemy showed the whites of their eyes, and then to blaze away and charge down the hill upon the ranks of the advancing troops. When within fifty yards of our earthworks, coming in gallant style, a death-dealing volley was given the enemy, as a morning sa- lute, which caused them to stagger about like drunken men. Yet still they came ; and when within a few feet of an old worm fence on the margin of our woods, we dealt them an- other fire, and at the same time Gen. Cameron, riding on his excited steed, ordered a charge along the whole line. There was some hesitancy in obeying the order on the left of our line, and a seeming unwillingness to take the open field, thereby 96 A CHECKERED LIFE. exposing the whole command to the murderous artillery that poured their missiles down upon us with remarkably sure aim. To start the charge, I ordered some of the men to throw down part of the fence in our right front, and putting spurs to my horse, jumped the barrier at a bound, calling upon the men to dash forward to the charge, and meet the enemy in the open field. All was now in motion, and with fixed bayonets the men rushed on to the foe, who broke and fled down the hill faster than they came up. Col. Hurt led the left wing of the regi- ment, which joined on the 65th Illinois, with the io3d Ohio supporting our advancing column. I was put in charge of the right wing of the regiment, abutting on the rugged rocks of the Holston River. In a narrow gorge, our men endeavored to scale the heights and turn the left of the enemy ; but they perceived the movement, and depressed their cannon on our struggling ranks, pouring into us a shower of shot and shell. In one spot the regiment got into a tangle among the rocks, and wavered backward and forward in the effort, to advance and also at the same time escape the fury of the fire from the heights. Our color-bearer, James Jackson, was shot down and dropped the flag, which was taken up by another soldier, who soon met the same fate. For a time it looked as if we would be compelled to retreat ; but just as everything seemed giving away, Col. Hurt rushed up and grasped the prostrate flag, when our broken ranks rallied to his support and estab- lished a line so close under the enemy's guns that they could not depress them enough to make fatal shots, the shells and balls shrieking over our heads as if a myriad of demons were treating us to an infernal serenade. Gens. Shackleford and Woolford, with their mounted corps, came to our aid in this trying ordeal, Col. Charles D. Penny- backer, of the 27th Kentucky, who commanded a brigade in Woolford's division, bringing his gallant Kentuckians to the front and strengthening our broken lines. The fight went on with alternate success and defeat during the day, and even the A CHECKERED LIFE. 97 artillery of heaven joined in the roar below. Clouds, rain, thunder and lightning accompanied the roaring fray. The evening sun at last shot forth its parting beams, piercing the dense woods with arrows of golden light. A final charge was ordered. With five companies of the 24th Kentucky, I began to climb the heights, and touching, as I thought, the column on my left, we made our way through underbrush and dark timber to the cannon that had been firing on us during the day. All was seemingly still \ the guns were there, but the soldiers had fled down the hill towards their pontoon bridge that connected the north side of the Holston with the main column of Longstreet. I went to my left, and found, instead of support by the brigade, nothing but an interminable forest. The whole command, it seems, had fallen back to our original base in the woods, and left me with the five companies isolated but victorious on the enemy's ground. I knew it was useless for me to attempt to hold the captured position without sup- port, and as I saw through the timbers a line of soldiers ad- vancing to reoccupy the ground they had so suddenly vacated, I determined that in this particular instance discretion was the better part of valor, and withdrew my men down the hill and through a large open field, back to the works we had occupied in the morning. It was reported to Gen. Burnside, at Knox- ville, that I had been captured with all my men ; and many of my own regiment, including Col. Hurt, thought I had been taken in as fresh food for Andersonville and Libby prison. I believe it was acknowledged by all that if the brigade and division had been actuated by my enthusiasm, the Union forces on the south side of the Holston would have camped on the ground of the enemy that bleak November night, and the two Confederate brigades would have been compelled to recross the river. It is a ludicrous thing to behold brave soldiers fighting each other and each moment increasing the distance between battle- lines each party fearing the other, and both retreating when no one pursues. This may be on the principle that 7 9 8 A CHECKERED LII Francisco, I took the cars for Roseburg, and thence overland by stage a distance of three hundred miles through the Pitt and Snake River valleys to the golden gulches of California. The ride was one of the most romantic I ever had. Wind- ing around the crest of some rugged crag toppling far above Snake River, as the morning sun bathes the world in glory r you may gaze away for a hundred miles through the transpar- ent atmosphere, and see the blue peaks of the tallest mount- ains capped with eternal snow above the floating clouds, like Titanic ghosts of buried centuries. Then shorten the vision to hill, crag, valley, tree, water-fall, blooming wild flowers, and warbling birds, together with the downward rush of the break-neck stage, and you have a sensation of life and romance that spurns danger, and sweeps away like a mountain eagle among the peaks of his native home. I arrived in due time at San Francisco, and wrote up my investigations, making a voluminous report in detail of the violations of law discovered during my examination. If the Commissioner of Internal Revenue ever succeeded in bringing them to justice and punishment, I never heard of it ; and per- haps, after all, the prophecy of De Young, of the Chronicle^ was fulfilled that my official report would not amount to any- thing, but would be ignored and pigeon-holed in the interests of powerful politicians. However, I performed my duty, and left the balance to the consideration of superior officers in the Treasury Department. 1 88 A CHECKERED LIFE. A breakfast at the Cliff House is one of the memorable milestones of a trip to the Pacific Coast. I took the reins of a double team, and accompanied by a beautiful and intelligent lady from the East, who was stopping at the Grand Hotel, proceeded to the celebrated resort. Out Market Street, by the old Mission, through the park, over a succession of rolling hills, up winding roads, and along precipitous crags to the top of mountain spurs that overlooked the Ocean House and the golden sand-hills that sparkled down the coast as far as the eye could reach, we rode in the exhilarating air. On the crest of the highest hill of those that margin San Francisco with an emerald frame, I looked back in amazement at the silent city rising from its silver couch in the sparkling waters of the beau- tiful bay. On we went, by winding road, sandy foot-hills, and yellow beach, until the tumbling waters of the Pacific dashed in mu- sical spray against the rocky base of the Cliff House. After a refreshing breakfast, we turned our faces towards the city, over a broad gravel road as smooth as a floor, rising and falling with undulating swells like the broad-backed billows of the ocean. Toward the right is the Catholic cemetery, nestled among the foot-hills, and on the left Lone Mountain Cemetery, overlooking San Francisco, with a glimpse of bay and ocean in the shining distance. Lone Mountain shadows the graves of Senator Broderick and General Baker ; one the victim of Duke Guinn, Terry and slavery, while the other lost his noble life at Ball's Bluff fight- ing for Freedom and the Union. They rest almost side by side. Many pilgrims from home and foreign lands will love to dwell upon the memory of these brave patriots who fell for Liberty ; and as long as the rivers and mountains of Oregon embrace the golden streams of California, Baker and Broder- ick will live in the hearts of the good and true, shining as beacon lights to irradiate the pathway of progress. "Not in vain the distant beacons; forward, forward, let us range ! Let the great world spin forever down the ringing grooves of change." A CHECKERED LIFE. ^9 Previous to leaving St. Louis for the Pacific coast, I prom- ised the editor to write a series of descriptive letters for the Globe-Democrat; and, as they dropped fresh from my pen, I engraft them in this volume just as they were written, believing that the reader will be better pleased than if I revamped them now from the encrusted fields of memory. SCENES AND INCIDENTS OF A TRIP TO THE PACIFIC. Correspondence St. Louis Globe- Democrat. San Francisco, CaL, March 25, 1864. The readers of the Globe have no doubt often wished them- selves on the golden sands of the Pacific ; and to those who have never made the overland trip, I hereby extend an invita- tion, insisting only that their imagination and good will shall follow me through the serpentine windings of the Union and Central Pacific Railroads over plains, hills, mountains and dash- ing streams, where nature plays its grandest part. Remember now, gentle reader, before starting, that " touch and go' ' is our programme, and pleasure and profit our motive power. With ticket and trunk-check in our pocket we step into one of Pullman's fine palace coaches at St. Louis, on a Sabbath evening, and soon we are wending our way toward Kansas City, arriving Monday morning, connecting with the Missouri Valley and Council Bluffs Railroad, which deposits us safely that night in Omaha, where, at the Grand Central Hotel, we feast and rest until the morning sun warns us that the Union Pacific train waits not for laggards. Our experience in the late unpleasantness prompts the necessity of "three days' rations in haversack," ready to march or starve (?) at a mo- ment's warning. At n o'clock in the morning, promptly, the overland train moves out of the depot and heads off for the West, and, as we turn over the bluffs of Omaha, bid good-bye and give a last fond look at the " Big Muddy" as it wends its way to the Gulf. Onward we move over the rich prairie lands of Nebraska, stopping occasionally at way stations for mails and passengers. Near Grand Island, one hundred and fifty-four 1 90 A CHECKERED LIFE. miles from Omaha, where the train stops for supper, we behold a splendid prairie fire, just as the sun sinks behind the western hills. No one who has not witnessed it can appreciate the .grandeur and fearful sublimity of a general prairie fire. Far as the eye can reach, long waves of flame, like molten metal, crackle and skip at the sport of the wild winds, filling the air with dense clouds of smoke, rushing on like the wild breakers of the ocean until dashed to pieces and extinguished against some bare bluff or barren crag. A good night's rest brings us to Sidney, Neb., for breakfast, and after a splendid run over undulating plains, we reach Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory, a central distributing point for Colorado and New Mexico. Dinner is served up in good style here, and the overland argonauts continue their journey with light hearts and full stomachs. About 3 o'clock in the after- noon we arrived at Sherman, named in honor of our dashing general who cracked the shell of the rebellion and marched his "bummers" in triumph to the sea. This is the highest point on the road, attaining an altitude of eight thousand two hundred and forty-two feet above the level of the ocean. To the south, one hundred and sixty-five miles, is Pike's Peak, and to the southwest, seventy-five miles is Long's Peak, both visible. From Sherman we dashed away over rough hills, narrow canons and high bridges spanning terrible gorges, until Lara- mie City is gained, where supper is in waiting. This is the town where the first woman jury in the United States was im- paneled to try one of the opposite sex for theft, murder, or some other mild form of crime, and to their credit be it said the " Lord of Creation" was convicted on every count ! Who will say that woman acts from sympathy and not from a spirit of justice, after this showing ? Rushing out of Laramie, with tne stars and stripes fluttering over Fort Sanders in the distance, we enter the Laramie plains, extending sixty miles towards the west, and twenty miles to- ward the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains. This valley is one of the finest grazing sections in the country, and a hundred A CHECKERED LIFE. 19 1 thousand head of cattle can easily find food and water along the tortuous windings of the Larainie River. For ten miles we struggle on towards Sheep Mountain, twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea. Here the Laramie River takes its rise among the gloomy gorges of dense forest, overhanging rocks, and eternal springs. Deer, bear, mountain lions and wild sheep range the rugged sides of the Black Hills and mountain peaks. The traveler will notice, from Laramie on, that the sons of the Celestial empire work the railroad, and cut up old mother earth for the benefit of the Yankee nation. See one John Chinaman and you see them all. Dark, almond eyes, round expression- less face, shaved head, blouse, boxed shoes, and the eternal pig-tail, make up the sum and substance of this patient, untir- ing child of Confucius. While they are not of us or with us in make and education, let us consider that they are human, and long before our double-storied Caucasian head learned its letters the Chinese wrote and taught the eternal justice of doing to others as you would they should do to you. Night has passed, and we draw up in the early morning at Green River Station, where a good breakfast greets the wan- derer. We continue on the Green River, which takes its rise in the Wind River Mountains and empties into the Colorado, one hundred and fifty miles from the station. On we go to- wards Fort Bridger, which was established in 1858, by General A. S. Johnston, who suffered so much with his little army in the " scrimmage" with Brigham Young. The fort was named af- ter Jim Bridger, an old hunter and trapper who lived in this region for thirty years, and who, I am informed, now resides in St. Louis. The iron horse is dashing away towards Evans- ton, where dinner makes glad the heart of the traveler. Deer, elk and antelope abound in this region, and from the car win- dow I behold a large drove of the latter, more than fifty in number, quietly ranging and grazing within gun-shot of the train. (Rodman gun.) We now come to the wilds of Echo Canon, where the shrill whistle of the locomotive finds 192 A CHECKERED LIFE. tongue in rocky crags that answer back the defiant shriek. We clatter and dash through tunnels, over break-neck trestle bridges, until the wilds of Weber River usher us into the re- nowned Weber Canon, one of the grandest sights on the road. For more than thirty miles the river rushes foaming and boil- ing between two mountain walls, which shut in the landscape on either side. Frequently the torrent leaps over some huge rock that has fallen into the deep, dark chasm from the tower- ing cliff. For over six miles the fettered stream dashes down through the narrows where the road-bed is cut out of the solid rock, and at one point, where the old emigrant road crossed the gorge, is so narrow that the torrent has worn its bed into the form of a crooked S or Z where you would naturally imag- ine that its rush must cease or sink altogether into the bowels of the earth ; but a few miles further on it passes out into the plains as placid and clear as if no struggle had taken place. As we emerge from the" canon, the celebrated Thousand-mile Tree is passed, marking the distance from Omaha. This is a grand old pine, that has long weathered the storm, and shel- tered by its wide-spreading branches the red rover of the plains and the lonely emigrant on his toilsome way to the land of gold. Here the Mormon settlements began to appear, and the followers of Brigham utilized every foot of valley land, rear- ing thereon their household gods with remarkable thrift A.t dusk we reach Ogden, the terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad, where we change cars for the Central Pacific, and those who desire can run up thirty-eight miles to Salt Lake, and pay homage to B. Young & Co., which is a strong firm in this region. "All aboard for San Francisco," 882 miles dis- tant, prompts the tourist to take his place in the silver palace sleeping cars. On we go now past Corinne, through the Great American Desert, sixty miles square, where the eye fails to see i green shrub, and only alkali wastes of gray sandstone meet the vision. There are many evidences that this tract of coun- try was once the bed of an inland sea. In the early morning Pilot Peak, an old emigrant landmark, meets the view, and A CHECKERED LIFE. 193 passing on to Toano, where we lay snow-bound for six hours, we strike down upon the head waters of the Humboldt River through Osino Canon, a wild, rocky region, where bunches of sage grass and stunted shrubs grapple with the mountain sides. Elko, Nevada, is reached for breakfast. It is the center of a vast silver mining country, including the White Pine region. Humboldt Canon is in sight a few miles from Carlin, and standing on the platform, we wonder how the train can ever get through the mountains. The Humboldt River rolls at our feet, tossed and churned in its rocky road. On we glide to- wards Humboldt, where good meals are furnished, then to Hot Springs, down Truckee River to Verdi, over the line to Cali- fornia. Seven and fourteen miles from Truckee City are Don- ner and Tahoe Lakes. I would like to linger here, and tell you all about the Donner party and the matchless suffering they endured in the winter of 1864, on the borders of this re- nowned lake. They were sixteen in number, bound from Illinois to the land of gold. A long and extremely heavy snow-storm over- took them. Mr. Donner, his wife and a German proposed to remain on the lake and let his children and the other emigrants endeavor to cross the mountains, expecting, when the storm subsided, to meet them in the Sacramento Valley. The main party crossed the mountain safely, but poor Donner and his wife, the bold pioneers, died of their sufferings. From Truckee City we journeyed on to the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and such another serpentine climb there is not on the continent. The road for thirty miles is covered with snow-sheds, through which the train pushes. Just think of a continuous tunnel of that length, with now and then a ray of light blinding the eyes, and you have some idea of snow-sheds. At Summit Station we breakfasted on delicious trout, caught in the lakes and streams of the surrounding mount- aims ; this, too, in an eating - house covered by sheds and twenty-five feet o snow ! 13 ! 94 A CHECKERED LIFE. Down the mountains we dash at break-neck speed, through Emigrant Gap, Dutch Flat and Gold Run, when, soon after, Cape Horn looms up in sight, and the gold mines of California meet the view wherever we turn. Chinese cabins and miners' huts peep out from every nook and gorge. On the iQth of January, 1848, near Placerville, El Dorado County, the first gold was discovered by one J. W. Marshall, in the mill-race of the noted General Sutter. From this discovery has grown the greatness and wealth of the Pacific coast, which has given our country a leading position among the nations. The gold-hunt- ers from every state in the Union have been here to try their luck, and while hundreds have grown rich and settled in the beautiful valleys of this state, thousands and tens of thousands gave up the ghost in their overland tramp, or died alone and neglected in their unprofitable search among the crags and foot- hills of the coast range and Sierras. Rounding Cape Horn, a bold, sharp peak, we look perpen- dicularly 3,000 feet below to the golden stream that flows at the base of the crag, like a variegated ribbon in a green field. In the distance is the thriving town of Colfax, named after our ex-Vice-President, and far away to the north-west is Mount Shasta, overlooking the waters of the Pacific Ocean. A short run brings us into the Sacramento valley, and right ahead can be seen the city of Sacramento. The sudden change from the region of ice and snow to the balmy breezes of the tropics, where violets and buttercups gladden the eye, and lilies grow in the open air, can be felt, but not described. Stopping but ten minutes at Sacramento, we move on toward San Francisco and the Golden Gate. Now we dash down the Sacramento valley, with Oakland and San Francisco before us, and the Sierra Nevada behind us. Out into the bay, over the extended wharf, the train heads towards Goat Island, and the engine blows its last whistle for "down brakes" at San Francisco, where the long rows of gas- lights across the water wink a kind invitation to the weary pil- grim, who slumbers his first night in the city of seventy-seven A CHECKERED LIFE. 195 hills. A large and commodious ferry-boat lies in waiting to carry us over the bonnie blue bay, and having escaped with our lives and our pocket-books from the infernal importunities of hotel runners and hackmen, we are snugly located at the Grand Hotel, six days' ride from home. SOMETHING ABOUT THE EARLY HISTORY OF SAN FRANCISCO. :Special Correspondence of the St. Louis Globe. San Francisco, Cal., April 25th, 1874. Twenty-five years ago this city was but a straggling village, containing only a few miners and their huts and tents scattered along the bay, among the sand hills. The Indian, Mexican and Spaniard had long ranged the coast mountains and the waters of San Francisco Bay, and the Golden Gate had re- sounded to the music of the mission bells of the Castillian race nearly a hundred years before the Yankee nation poured out its dashing warriors and gold-hunters amid the Sierra Nevada Mountains. To-day San Francisco boasts of its two hundred thousand population, assembled from every clime on earth, embracing the most daring spirits of every race, and dashing forward with that indomitable perseverance and manly pluck that has made the Golden State the brightest gem in the coro- net of Columbia. Ships of every nation load and unload their rich freights here at the back door of the Union ; and while New York is the metropolitan city of the nation, and St. Louis looms up as the Future Great City of the World, San Francisco, the representative of California, puts in a claim for the finest harbor, the richest mines, minerals and mountains, the biggest grain-fields forty miles by twelve the grandest scenery, the fastest women, and the largest and smartest men on top of dirt ! If you don't believe what I say, ask any one of the " Forty- Niners" who cross your pathway on Montgomery or California streets. They will tell more than I can imagine of the won- derful past and grand future in store for all good Californians. I am inclined to encourage the pride of these whole-souled people ; for, seeming blessed, "they grow to what they seem." I 9 6 A CHECKERED LIFE. Everything here is on the broad gauge. The smallest boot- black bores with a big auger, and gimlets are never used ex- cept by us wandering, benighted Arabs east of the mountains. Go along any of the thoroughfares of this rushing city, and you will see such portentous signs as "The Oriental Boot- black," the "Pacific Peanut Peddler," the "Celestial Wash- stand," the "Empire Laundry," and the "Occidental Oyster Depot." When such big-sounding names are used by the small fry, you can imagine how the bankers, brokers and mer- chants inflate their business, although financial inflation here is tabooed by every man of sense. California street is the Wall street of this coast. There you daily see the maddening rush for gold young and old, rich and poor, struggling for the shining dust. There on the cor- ner stands a shrewd man who made a million out of "Belcher," and his friend across the street lost a million on the same silver mine. Here is the sharper who induced the rich banker to invest in the diamond mine of Arizona, and there goes the banker that was taken in. There is the man who buys up all the wheat on the Pacific coast and bulls the Liverpool market, while his friend against the lamp-post manufactures and sells all the Pio- neer wine and brandy of California. You would not think that the little red-faced, red-nosed, gray-haired man biting his finger nails, on the curbstone, made a half a million last week on " Crown Point." No, he lost all he invested, and like a shark waits for some gudgeon to get even on. There comes Ralston, the president of the Bank of Califor- nia, a man of extraordinary pluck and off-hand venture. He is about forty years old, I believe, has a good address, a con- stitution like an army mule, and an iron nerve. Ralston is one of the pushing spirits of the Pacific coast. His generosity is unbounded, and his hand and heart are ever open to the poor and unfortunate. Years ago he was clerk on a Mississippi steamboat, and many of the business men of your city remem- ber him as a dashing young blood who was always ready to work, and never absent from roll-call. A CHECKERED LIFE. 197 A trip to "Belmont," the home of Mr. Ralston, situated among the coast foot-hills, is something to be remembered by tourists who are out in the world for pleasure and information. It was no uncommon thing for Ralston, with his party of friends and his "four in hand," to drive to Belmont, twenty- five miles away, in two hours. Sometimes, when the train lag- ged for passengers, the financial king with his team would beat the locomotive, and enter the precincts of his fairy home .as the engineer whistled ' ' down brakes. ' ' Two hundred guests could be accommodated at his hospitable board, where fruits, flowers, flowing wine, singing birds and instrumental music made the heart and soul imagine that some bright enchantress with her magic wand had called into celestial life the tropical romance of Belmont. Scattered to-day in every land and clime are the guests of Belmont, and as the mind of the traveler turns back over the checkered road he has passed, his heart will often linger with pride and love upon the memory of the royal hand that dis- pensed romantic pleasures at that renowned home among the golden sands of California. There are more than twenty millionaires in San Francisco, all having arrived on the coast poor and friendless, and many are the strange tales you hear about the great fortunes won and lost at the point of the pick, or the turn of the last trump not Gabriel's. The city is progressing rapidly, new buildings going up daily, like new wine injected into old bottles. Speaking of wine, this state will in time furnish all the pure wine and brandy con- sumed in the United States, always excepting ike Cook and his "Imperial" fluid, which has become so entangled with the growth of Missouri that it is part and parcel of our natural ex- istence. San Francisco by gas-light " takes the rag off the bush." In company with the chief of police, T. G. Cockrill, this wander- ing Arab viewed the elephant and saw where the giraffe came in. Cockrill was formerly from Missouri, and claims relation- 198 A CHECKERED LIFE. ship with Colonel Crisp, who, with the assistance of Hutchins, the good, preserves the virtue of the Evening Dispatch, and purifies the political atmosphere of St. Louis. But Cockrill is not responsible for his relations, and I can afford to accompany him through the dark haunts of this city. Down Montgomery to California, up Kearney and Dupont to Jackson street, and into the Chinese theater we go, where the painted Celestial, with his Dolly Varden stage costume, squeals out an unearthly noise in his operatic contortions, and causes the stranger to wonder whether he is in a lunatic asylum, being entertained by the maudlin mimicry of maniacs. After looking about for a few moments upon the numerous pig-tails hanging to dilapi- dated pumpkin-heads gazing with a look of inanity upon the stage stock, we withdrew to a dark alley near by, and being reinforced by Officer Schimp, proceeded to inspect the lower depths of Chinese infamy. Down two flights of stairs, through the sinuosities of inferno equaling that of Dante, we were ush- ered into a small room, with six bunks against the walls, where " John" was inhaling the aromatic perfumery of opium with a zest that made my Christian stomach weaken and long for the pure air of the upper world. In this den were reclining six Celestials, puffing and blowing away their poor existence. I asked the policeman regarding the occupation of these beauti- ful dreamers, and with a knowing twinkle in his eye, he replied that they were very careful, industrious men, who could not see anything go to waste, and in the lonely hours of midnight sallied out to take care of such property as their neighbors had left unlocked. We immediately saw that the " dark ways" of the Heathen Chinee bore a strong resemblance to the illustri- ous customs of the Caucasian, and, having but a small purse, we " passed out" into the street. We had often heard of the al- mond-eyed daughters of Confucius, and could not resist the im- portunities of the " Chief" to gaze upon the beauties of a harem that would have made Mrs. Lalla Rookh, Hinda and old Mr. Moore look sick. The new woman's movement being now all the rage, we lingered a moment in search of informa- A CHECKERED LIFE. ! 99 tion, that we might contrast the beauties of the far East with the bouncing belles of the West. The " Chief aided us in examining the peculiarities of the Celestial sisters, but I must confess, with a feeling of sadness, that what I saw did not come up to my expectations, and I retired from the scene in favor of anything that will make women better and men truer and more generous to the weaker sex. We traveled along to " Barbary Coast," where the " hoodlums," or rowdies, make night hide- ous with their drunken brawls. Into the cellar dance-house we peeped, and saw men and women swearing, talking, danc- ing, drinking, and fighting their way through those desperate dens. Scarcely a night passes but some poor drunken sot is robbed or murdered in these vile haunts, which are in collu- sion with the twenty-five cent lodging houses that skirt the dark alleys of murder row. While I thus show the dark side of San Francisco, there are, thank God, pure and happy homes looming up all round, where virtue and intelligence reign supreme, and the hearthstone blazes with a hospitable light for the worthy stranger. Chief Cockrill pointed out tome some of the finest mansions on the coast, surrounded with evergreens and sitting upon ter- raced hills overlooking the shining waters of the bay. Well it is for the people of the city that they are blessed with a chief of police who is in every respect a natural gentleman, and who guards their slumbers in the silent watches of the night by a force that is not excelled in the United States for efficiency and intelligence. Having just returned from Los Angeles, the orange grove of Southern California, I will digress from the main track and give you a brief resume' of my trip. Ten days ago I was in- vited to accompany an examining railroad commission upon a tour of inspection, and as my business called me in that direc- tion I availed myself of the hospitable offer. Taking the cars at Oakland, across the Bay, we proceeded to Delano, in the San Joaquin Valley, and from thence by stage to the mission of San Francisco, where the cars were waiting to hurry us 200 A CHECKERED LIFE. through to Los Angeles, distant from here about four hundred and fifty miles. My companions were L. M. Foulk, Super- visor of Internal Revenue : Eugene Sullivan and Calvin Brown, composing the railroad commission, and Colonel Gray, Red- ning, Madden and Brown, of the South Pacific Company. The party were ever on the qui vive for fun, and the stage ride over the Sierra Nevada Mountains was enjoyed by your correspond- ent with a zest that will not soon be forgotten. After our ar- rival in Los Angeles, a trip to the San Gabriel Mission was planned and executed with alacrity, where the party had an op- portunity to view the beauties of the orange groves, the prev- alence of the grape vine, and the grandeur of the distant mount- ains reflected in the deep blue sea. It was noon when we neared the orange groves, dashing away over rolling hills, seven of us behind six spanking bays. All was seemingly serene, when we heard that the noted highway robber, Vasquez, had just robbed an old ranchero, and was on our track. We at first laughed at the report, but it was soon confirmed by two men who were just ahead of us, and were relieved of their money and watches by the bold bandits. Each man of our party grew to the size of a first-class Alexander when it was known that the robbers missed us ten minutes, and a cooling draught of wine at the vineyard of Messrs. Wilson & Shorb appeased the wrath of the railroad warriors. There is a reward of twenty thousand dollars upon the head of Vasquez, but up to the pres- ent time he has defied the whole state of California, and from his mountain wilds dictates terms to the people like the Italian bandits calling for ransom in compensation for blood. He is an educated Spaniard, and has the sympathy of his race to aid him in his daring exploits. We first visited the orange and grape ranch of Gen. George Stoneman, the bold Union raider of the late war. On his place can be seen the orange in all its golden beauty. Upon the same tree I saw the bud, blossom, green and ripe orange, which to me was phenomenal. The trees bear nine years from the seed, and two thousand oranges to a tree is frequently gath- A CHECKERED LIFE. 20 1 ered, and sold at from two to five dollars a hundred. The orchards of Wilson, Cuen and Rose are the finest in the val- ley thousands of tropical fruit trees and millions of grape vines in bloom, and bearing the whole year round. Here I actually saw growing oranges, lemons, limes, figs, English walnuts, al- monds, pomegranates, plums, cherries, peaches, olives, pears, quinces, apricots, citrons, apples, medlar and nectarines. The soil is of a dark, dry, gravelly formation, and for three months in the year, during the dry season, irrigation is absolutely nec- essary to prevent trees from dying. Land is no object in this beautiful valley, although held in large bodies ; but water is the main thing for farming purposes. The water is sold and distributed carefully, and the land is thrown in for a hundred dollars an acre. Modest people, aren't they? Standing upon General Stoneman's place, looking south-east, the traveler be- holds the peaks of Mount San Bernardino covered with snow, the ocean to the south-west, and the golden fruit of the tropics blushing at you from beneath their dark-browed branches. Oh ! if I were a poet, wouldn't I stay here and go it ! The church or mission of San Gabriel is one of the oldest Spanish buildings on this coast, having just celebrated its one hundred and third anniversary. I went all through the old ruin, now going fast to decay, but still a resort for the faithful few that daily assemble at the sound of the old bells in the tower. How the memory of other days crowds upon the traveler as he views crumbling piles of masonry erected by the hands of those faithful natives that made the Jesuit fathers rich and arrogant, until their wealth excited the envy and rapacity of the Mexican Government, which sequestrated the great land- grants and property of these religious families. A few more years and the missions of California will be chronicled in the musty archives of the past ; the bells that now peal forth an hourly invitation to prayer will sound the funeral march of the natives, and the wild waves of the Pacific will chant an eternal requiem over their lonely graves on the mountain side. 202 A CHECKERED LIFE. The city of Los Angeles is beautifully situated in a grove of orange trees, twenty miles from the ocean by rail. The grape grows in the wildest profusion all around the city, and thous- ands of gallons of the purest wine are made annually. Kohler & Frolina have one of the largest cellars in this regioh, and, combined with their vineyard in Sonora county, do the largest business on the coast. Mr. Kohler is the pioneer wine man on the Pacific. He is progressive and intelligent, possessing those noble characteristics that make the Teutonic race respected in this land, where energy and thrift find recognition. Mr. Kel- ley, his Hibernian neighbor, has a very fine orange and lemon orchard, thousands of grape vines, and cellars well stocked with the choicest wines and brandies. From Los Angeles I proceeded by stage to Santa Barbara, on the Pacific coast, with the Santa Cruz Islands in sight, thirty miles distant. This is one of the most thriving towns in South- ern California, and is fast settling up with an Eastern popula- tion, in search of health and fortune. I visited the Old Mis- sion, and the celebrated grape vine, fifty-five years old, eighteen inches in diameter, the trunk five feet high and the branches trained over an arbor fifty by sixty feet, where the town folks assemble during the summer months, and floating away in tropical joy, to the music of the Spanish fandango, perform the intricate steps of the "grape-vine twist ! " From Santa Barbara I took an ocean steamer, the Constant- ine, to San Francisco. On the way I saw four whales the genuine article blowing, spouting and riding the wild waves of Monterey Bay. InJ:he distance they looked like floating islands heaved up by volcanic action. I was forcibly struck with nature and its destructive elements. The wild sea-gull went for the little fish ; the seal went for the gulls as they floated in fancied security on the waves; the shark went for the seal and the salmon ; the whale went for the shark and the seal, and the Yankee went for the whale, (and got him, too,) and that's what became of the whale because of his natural inclination to spout. Let all politicians take warning from the fate of the whale ! A CHECKERED LIFE. 205 Last evening, just as the sun sank behind the western waves, our staunch steamer pushed through the Golden Gate, dashing a heavy sea from its prow as it passed the rocks that guard the entrance to San Francisco. On the right sits the cele- brated Cliff House with the seal-rocks covered by a moving mass of seals. One of the largest and ugliest is named in honor of Ben Butler, and the natives say that he is eternally barking for something. The biggest seal is named General Grant. He sits on the topmost crag, surveying those below^ him with a conscious dignity ; but occasionally, when he is riled by the barking of Benjamin and the others, he drives- them off the rocks. On the left of the Gate is the light-house,- and ahead is Fort Alcatraz and Goat Island in the distance,, with the City of the Hills margined by a forest of masts. A TOUR IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON TERRITORY. Special Correspondence of the Globe-Democrat. San Francisco, Cal., May 2pth, 1874. In my last letter I gave you an idea of Southern California and its resources, and struck at some of the peculiarities of this city. Since that time I have visited Oregon and Wash- ington Territory, where the great Yankee nation whittles out timber for a living. Taking the steamer Ajax on the 5th of the present month,, your correspondent, in company with a jolly crew and cabin companions, pushed out through the Golden Gate, beyond the light-house, and steered away up the North Pacific to Portland, Oregon, where the inhabitants enjoy their annual shower, and with the assistance of their web feet and patent life-preservers, manage to keep their heads out of the gentle inundation which visits that state only once a year. As the evening sun of the fourth day out bathed its last blushes in the briny bosom of the Pacific, we came in sight of the land -jaws that lock up the mouth of the Columbia River, with a rough, chopping sea beating over the sand-bar at the front door of Oregon. It was so rough that we had to anchor 204 A CHECKERED LIFE. outside the bar until five o'clock in the morning, when the high tide swept us over the breakers and into the placid bosom of the Columbia. Astoria soon came in view, and the pine- clad mountains rose up abruptly on either side, hemming in John Jacob Astor's town with a weird-like stillness that would have suited the taste of Rip Van Winkle. Years ago the great Germanic-American fur monarch estab- lished this as a trading-post with Indians and trappers. Then every little stream that emptied into the Columbia was alive with fur-bearing animals, and every gorge in the mountain was tracked with the wild beasts of the forest. The red rover of the hills and the pioneer Caucasian basked in the sunshine of prosperity while hunting in the mountains, or fishing for sal- mon in the Columbia. The fur-bearing animals of this region have almost entirely disappeared, and the great havoc by vo- racious fishermen will soon destroy the grandest salmon fish- eries on the continent. A law should be enacted to protect the fish of this stream from the wholesale slaughter that now goes on, in and out of season. Our good steamer moved gracefully up the river, passing beautiful islands overshadowed by rocky crags that have stood the pelting storms of ages. All along the fishermen were en- gaged in spreading and hauling their nets, and each boat we passed was filled with the shining beauties of the Columbia. In the past two or three years some thirteen canning estab- lishments have been erected along the banks, from the mouth of the stream to the Willamette River. The running season of the salmon commences in May and ends in July. They are taken from one to ten thousand daily. By the labor of Chinamen they are cut up into pieces, canned in tin boxes, steamed, soldered, labeled, packed, and shipped direct to the London market by vessels, some of which were loading as we passed. A hundred men or more are employed Sit each house, and the modus operandi of preserving the salmon fresh for the markets of the world is a sight to the traveler. You may know that the business is profitable, when I tell you A CHECKERED LIFE. 205 that last season one firm made a profit of $60,000. The fish- ermen sell the salmon for twenty-five cents each, large and small, and considering that they weigh from twenty to seventy- five pounds, you can imagine the great profit to the capitalist. About five o'clock in the afternoon we entered the Willa- mette River, and within an hour afterward we beheld Portland, the metropolitan city of Oregon, situated on the first river- bench of level land from the mouth of the Columbia. In the background the hills rise abruptly, and great pine forests sigh to the music of the wild winds, sunshine and shadow forever flecking the scene below. Twenty years ago Portland was but a name, and the beautiful waters of the Willamette were only ruffled by the paddle of the Indian with his canoe, the splash of the salmon, or the dash of the wild duck. Now, ships of every nation load at its harbor with grain and lumber. The whistle of the iron horse and the hoarse shriek of steamboats awaken the slumbering echoes of the mountain, and fifteen thousand inhabitants, including Ben. Holliday, bask in the wild glare of nature, wondering whether God ever made a finer country than that skirted by the Columbia and Willamette. Spending but a few days in Portland, your correspondent invaded the soil of Washington Territory by way of the North Pacific Railroad, to Kalama, Tacoma and Olympia, the capital of the territory. This city is situated at the head of Puget Sound, and has about five thousand inhabitants, mostly en- gaged in lumbering and political expectations. Every other man here thinks he would make a first-class governor, and the balance think themselves fitted for Congress or a saw-mill. I might say, without exaggeration, that all the people of the Pacific coast feel that they were made to govern the country, and no good Californian, at least, can be found who would not, at a moment's notice, assume the helm of State and un- dertake to pilot the ship through the roughest breakers. Taking a steamer at Olympia one charming morning, this Arabian knight paddled down Puget Sound, the most magnifi- cent sheet of water in America. On we went over the spark- 206 A CHECKERED LIFE. ling waters, passing green islands, dashing through narrow necks into broad bays, and turning points the Coast Range of mountains covered with snow on the left, and the Cascade Range on the right and all at once we touched the town of Tacoma. Mount Rainier, the highest mountain on the con- tinent, lifted its glorious form to view, and there, in grand proportions, sixty miles away, the old snow-clad monarch lifted his bold head into and beyond the highest clouds, piercing the very dome of heaven with his awful form The evening was bright and clear, and, standing in the pilot- house, with marine glass in hand, I brought all the beauties of the mountain close to view, showing the deep gorges, rocky ribs and glaciers running to the very crest, where a dark bare i>pot shows volcanic heat and action. In August, 1870, P. T. Van Trump and Hazard Stevens two young men from Olympia scaled the rugged heights of this mountain, being the only two human beings that have ever been known to go to the top. The trip took three days, the boys being compelled to camp on the crest of the volcano over night. They came near losing their lives, for while one -side was almost burning up with heat, the other was freezing with cold. What is it that young Yankees won't dare and do ? Our steamer touched at Seattle, a thriving town, and on to Port Gambel, the great saw-mill point, where half a million feet of lumber is turned out daily by one mill company. The timber in Washington Territory, along the streams and bays, grows down to the water's edge ; and the shrewd lumbermen of Maine, seeing this rich field twenty years ago, took advan- tage of it, and now supply this coast and South America with ail the lumber required. Continuing down through Admiralty Inlet, past Port Towns- end, the last revenue port of entry on Uncle Sam's farm, we headed across towards Victoria, on Vancouver's Island, leav- ing the island of San Juan immediately to our right. These islands, as it will be remembered, came into our full posses- sion by the decision of King William of Germany, who was A CHECKERED LIFE. 207 the arbitrator upon the boundary line of 1846. Victoria is a conservative spot, established years ago as a post for the Hud- son Bay Company. During the Frazer River gold excitement in 1858, the Yankee boys made the place lively, buckwheat cakes and molasses ruling the roost, but the denizens of the town have again settled down to quiet habits. Returning to Portland by rail and river, I could not sup- press my inclination to visit the cascades and dalles of the Co- lumbia River. Taking the steamer Daisy Ainsworth, we pushed out from the wharf at 5 o'clock in the morning, down the Willamette, twelve miles distant, and headed up the Columbia, touching at Fort Vancouver, W. T., where Generals Grant and Sheridan passed their early military life. Many are the strange stories told about our President and Sheridan, by the oldest inhabitants. But while many are ridiculous, the people who tell them pride in the fame and prosperity of our Union war- riors, pointing out the resorts that were once the glory of the young lieutenants. The view from Vancouver is remarkably grand ; to the northwest is Mount St. Helen and Mount Ad- ams, and to the northeast Mount Hood looms up one of the finest and sharpest peaks on the coast. Right ahead, as we steam up the river, bold mountain bluffs 5,000 feet high rise almost perpendicularly from the troubled waters as they fret and foam through the rocky canon to find outlet to the ocean. Down these mountain -cracked gorges dash a hundred water- falls at different points, spending their headlong fury in the rushing waters below, while the sun and the wind weave a pict- ure in the spray more beautiful than the fantastic colorings of fairy land. Arriving at the cascades, a railroad portage of about six miles takes us to the head of the rapids, where another steamboat is in waiting to take us to the Dalles, six miles up the stream. The whole route up the river is one ever-chang- ing picture of rocky islands, pointed peaks, columnar walls and bouncing billows, fretted into snowy spray by the rocks that lie in the channel. For two miles before reaching the town of the Dalles, the river is confined in a narrow rocky bed, cut out 2o8 A CHECKERED LIFE. by the hand of nature with as much architectural skill as if man had labored for centuries to erect the wall. A night at the Dalles satisfied our curiosity. Here begins fifteen miles of rapids, where the river rushes over a broken bed of rocks flung from the surrounding mountains, or heaved up by some vol- canic action. I was tempted to go to Walla Walla, two hun- dred miles farther north, but as I saw all that was beautiful and grand below, nature could only repeat herself farther up the stream, so I returned to Portland by the same route seeing on my way back the Indians catching salmon off the rocks at the cascades as they endeavored to jump the rapids that intercepted their progress. Salmon have been seen to jump ten feet over rocky falls. The Indian lays in wait with his dip net and spear ; when the fish jumps, the red man strikes, and, missing his aim, dips his net, when sooner or later the salmon is caught and bagged for market From Portland I took the cars for California as far as Rose- burg, Oregon, and then jolted over a gap of three hundred miles by stage to Redding, on to Sacramento and San Francisco. I was forcibly impressed on my overland trip with the Willa- mette Valley and the beautiful country that surrounds Salem, the capital of the state. It is the finest site for a city on the coast, and when the new state house is finished and the woolen factories are all under way, and the contemplated railroads built, Salem will be one of the most desirable places I have seen. The Willamette Valley is two hundred miles long by fifty wide, embracing the best wheat lands in Oregon Land sells for from five to fifty dollars an acre, and so far as water is con- cerned, there is an unfailing fountain from above and below. Oakland, near the terminus of the railroad, is a beautiful place,, snuggled into the top of the mountain. We took supper there, and you may not believe me when I say that strawberries and cream were furnished at this railroad eating station, and every other luxury that the hills and streams could afford. Did you ever sit up three nights and days on the top of a stage ? Try it once, just to encourage the stage company, and experience A CHECKERED LIFE. 209 the wild dash of six-in-hand, as they wheel around some mount- ain crag, with the head waters of some great river rushing three thousand feet below ! In the distance, you may discern the road before you, winding its zigzag way in the vicinity of Mount Shasta, like a black serpent crawling up the rugged gold gorges, near Yreka. On, ever on, goes the wild stage-driver and his blooded beasts, caring not for the rush of the storm, the scream of the eagle, or the genii of the mountains. Time and success has made him fearless, travel has made him rough, but kind, and nature has stamped upon his weather-beaten brow the nobility of manhood ; and when he jumps upon the box for the last drive, thinking alone of his passengers and team, he wails out from the depths of his breaking heart, " On the down grade, and can't reach the brakes !" But although this pioneer of travel cannot reach the brakes on this stage of action, his foot rests firmly on the threshold of eternal life, and on the golden grade of Paradise he can drive the chariot of Apollo with angels for passengers and Jehovah for superintend- ent ! THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. Special Correspondence of the St. Louis Globe- Democrat. Yosemite Valley, California, June 10, 1874. In company with Ike Cook, wife and daughter, of St. Louis, I started from San Francisco and proceeded to Merced, in the San Joaquin Valley, and from thence took stage to Clark's and the Big Trees. At Merced, our company was increased by a bridal party, composed of Mr. Briggs and wife, of Clyde, N. Y. , and Mr. Baker and wife, of Columbus, Ohio. Starting at 6 o'clock in the morning, we arrived at Clark's for supper, seventy miles away over hills, streams, and the rugged roads of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. During the day we passed through the celebrated Mariposa gold mine region made famous by Fremont and his financiering. The mine is now un work- ed, and the region that once yielded millions to the placer dig- gers is almost deserted, save here and there a Mexican or Chi- naman ekeing out a scanty share of the precious dust, by the 14 210 A CHECKERED LIFE. panning and rocking process of the " forty-niners. ' ' There is as much gold, no doubt, in the ribs and gorges of this mountain region as ever, but some company owns the claim, and will not work it, leaving the future development of the quartz to time and interest. The morning after our arrival at Clark's we prepared to visit the celebrated big trees. The stage company furnished us with animals, and Thomas H. Tremmed, one of the oldest and most reliable guides in the mguntains, was detailed to show the party to the spot where grow the largest trees on earth. The sun had just risen over the distant mountain when the horses, saddled and packed for the day, were brought up, and soon we mounted and dashed after the guide with the wild freedom of Comanche Indians. I rode a menagerie mule, striped like a zebra, that trotted before, paced in the middle, and galloped and kicked behind. The trail wound up through the foot-hills of the mountains, and gradually ascended for several miles. On the route, and near the mountain top, we were struck with the beauty and singular situation of the blood-red snow flowers peeping out from the margin of the snow belt that capped the pointed peaks. The Fallen Monarch was the first big tree we saw, twenty feet in diameter and three hundred feet long. Its body is large enough to drive a St. Louis omnibus upon. The sides of the old monarch are scarred all over with the names of the great from every land and clime. The Grizzly Giant, the largest tree in the world, was the next wonderful object we beheld. With the assistance of the ladies, I measured the circumference of the tree, and found it to be a hundred and eight feet thirty-six feet in diameter. A hundred feet from the base it has a limb six feet in diameter, fit for the largest saw-log. We continued through the grove until we came to the Hollow Tree, two of us riding upright and abreast through its fallen body. We passed the " Faithful Couple," twin monarchs having one great body and two tall heads that lift into the sunshine and the storm. We took lunch near " Ohio" and "Illinois," at a bubbling spring, A CHECKERED LIFE. 211 right under the shadow of " General Grant," a magnificent tree, three hundred and fifty feet high and twenty-five feet in diameter. Most of the trees are named in honor of some cel- ebrated character. There was one tree right across the little rivulet, twenty feet in diameter, and three hundred and twenty- five feet high. On our return to Clark's ranch we were taken by the guide upon the highest peak of the mountain, where, looking down into the valley, we beheld a grand scene stretching away as far as the eye could reach. The wondering delight at the big trees must be seen to be felt. A good night's rest at Clark's and a good breakfast put us in trim for the twenty-six mile trip to the Yosemite. Over hills, streams, rocks and zigzag mountain roads, we walked, rode, galloped, shouted and sang. The perfume of wild flow- ers and the aroma of the pine forest, brought to us on the wings of the bracing breeze, lent vigor and hope to the scene, and prepared our minds for the first view of the Yosemite Valley, as it presented itself from Inspiration Point. Before us lay the winding beauty of the Merced River, meandering through a sheet of emerald, set in a framework of natural splendor, and across the valley dashed the Cascade Falls, the El Capitan Mountain, where the Virgin's Tear trickles down the bold cliff in a shower of diamond beauty, catching the rays of the eve- ning sun in its satin spray. Then comes a grand, bewildering succession of lofty peaks and mountains the Three Brothers, Eagle's Nest, Grizzly Bear, the Yosemite Falls, Indian Canon, Royal Arch, Wash- ington Column, North Dome, Mount Watkins, Mount Hoff- man, Cathedral Peaks and Clouds' Rest ribbed with snow and sunshine far above them all. Then we see South Dome and Mirror Lake at the base ; Unicorn Group, Mount Missouri, covered with snow and pines ; Sentinel Dome, Sentinel Rock, the Three Graces, with the Bridal Veil, flowing over the round- ed rocks in gauzy grandeur, shadowed by the Leaning Tower, and right in front of where I stand the bold sides of Palisade 212 A CHECKERED LIFE. Rock, its steps washed by Cataract Falls ; and here my vision and mind checks in mute admiration at the circling wonders of the deep valley. Taking shelter for the night at one of the so-called hotels, I proceed in company with the guide to view the beauty of Ver- nal Falls, 350 feet, Nevada Falls, 700 feet, and Glacier Point. Passing up the brawling stream to the falls, great jagged rocks that have fallen from the crags intercept the way, and fearful mountain walls and jutting cliffs shadow the traveler. Vernal Falls, as seen from above, looks like a huge sheet of fretted lace, with a dash of bright green through its folds the margin pines reflected in the troubled waters. Leaning over the bal- ustered rock at the edge of the falls, you gaze down into the gorge below, spanned by the rainbow of promise, the spurting spray dashing from the rocks in clouds of beauty. A hundred yards above Vernal Falls is Silver Chute, running over an in- clined bed of granite, with more than the rapidity of a race- horse. A large rock thrown into the stream by the guide was- swept over like a chip. Wild Cat Chute, just above Silver Chute and under the shadow of Liberty Cap, is one of the most interesting spots in the valley. Leaning over the rustic bridge that spans the rocky gorge leading to Snow's Hotel, Vernal Falls and Glacier Point, to the front, and Nevada Falls to the rear the traveler gazes in silent astonishment at the wild plunges of the cataract as it escapes from the rocky jaws, set with granite teeth that have tested tide and time. Look for a moment at the milk-white spray leaping into coral trees, chas- ing each other with the rapidity of lightning as they dash through the* rocks, and the sunlit rainbow circling the wild rush of the stream. Let loose suddenly the Compton Hill Reser- voir, through a metal tube, three feet in diameter, the nozzle at the Globe office, and you can conceive the desperate dash of the Wild Cat Chute. Take this point, all in all, with the cracked mountain, falls, trees, sunshine, pine shadows and cloudless dome of heaven, it is, without exception, the wildest, grandest spot in the Yosemite. A CHECKERED LIFE. 213 Leaving Snow's Hotel, the guide led me up a narrow gorge at the base of Liberty Cap, and on to the left of Nevada Falls, where the crooked road angles every fifty feet in reaching the table rock. Arriving at the top, I scampered over the drift- wood and rocks until I sat upon the rocking boulder that juts out over the fearful fall, where the boiling, steaming waters dash in eternal fury down to the mad stream below, where the tall pines reflect their green branches and dark shadows in the churned stream. Liberty Cap looms up on my right, its splin- tered sides flecked with passing clouds and scorched by the sun of centuries. Far to the north-west is Eagle Point, Glacier Mountain, and away over the brow of El Capitan the clamber- ing clouds pile upon each other, showing the bright blue of the horizon through their fleecy folds, where the rays of the warm sunshine dance to the music of the wild winds. Winding around the rocky ribs of Piney Point, I passed over a bridge that led up the steep sides of Glacier Mountain, and looking back to the east saw the grand gorge of Vernal and Nevada Falls, hemmed in by the monarchs of the mountains, margined by the graceful branches of the pines, and singing the song of the universe. From the top rock of Glacier Point, inspired with fearful awe, the traveler gazes upon the immediate beauty and grandeur of the Yosemite Valley. Four thousand feet below, the hotels sit like bird cages on the margin of the Merced River, as it meanders on its brawling way to the sea. The Yosemite Falls is immediately in front, across the valley, while to the right you see the bold form of South Dome re- flected in Mirror Lake, with the inverted forms of pines pho- tographed in its glassy bosom, stirred by the gentle breeze that fitfully lingers in doubtful repose in this emerald gem of the Yosemite. In the early pre- Adamite days, when the mountains battled for the mastery, and volcanie fires and earthquakes shook the world, Clouds' Rest and South Dome fought long and fierce; but when the temper of the mountains "cooled, there stood Clouds' Rest above them all, while South Dome stood near by and defiant, but conquered in the contest. 214 A CHECKERED LIFE. Descending from Glacier Point, you pass Union Point, and turning the angles of the zigzag road, an ever-changing scene is presented. The rocks that but a moment ago looked like rugged crags, now assume the shape of cathedral spires, point- ed peaks or bald boulders; and the little fall seen in the dis- tance, like a silver ribbon fretted by the wind, changes to the Bridal Veil, Yosemite or Nevada ; and that still small voice, hushed by the sighing pines, breaks upon the ear at the turn of yon mountain point with the complaining roar of the cataract. In closing up my wild wanderings in the valley, I induced Mr. Cook, wife and daughter, to accompany me to the top of Clouds' Rest, the highest point, twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea. We were among the first of this season to un- dertake the hazardous journey. Mounting my zebra mule, I dashed away over three miles of snow, from five to fifty feet deep, our animals sinking at every step. There was no trail after we struck the snow-line, but keeping my eye on the mountain top, and leaving the guide to aid the ladies, I pushed onward and upward, through pine forests, throwing their dark branches on the bright snow, with occasional murmurs at my audacity in disturbing their sleep. When near the mountain top a fearful storm came up, skipping through the tree tops, causing a panther to jump across my path, and disappear down the gorges. Being anxious to take my mule on the granite back-bone of the Sierra Nevadas, I rode far ahead of the party, getting along boldly on the crest of snow that divided and showed the rough rocks on either side far down into the dark valley, when all at once, and within fifty feet of the top, the mule sank into the snow and threw this wandering Arab over his head. Then you might see a solitary mule, " as it were," lunging about and sinking until nothing could be seen but his ears and tail wagging in the breeze of freedom, and the rider, " so to speak," holding on to the bridle like grim death to one of our ebony fellow-citizens ! The view from Clouds' Rest is simply magnificent. Far be- low where I sat, the clouds whirled and broke into banks of fog, A CHECKERED LIFE. 215 ripped up by the winds and painted by the darting rays of the sun. Looking to the far west and into the green valley, I saw before and around me Mt. Hoffman, Mt. Watkins, North Dome, the spray of the Yosemite Falls, Eagle Point, El Capi- tan, Inspiration Point ; at the foot of the valley, the Three Graces, Sentinel Rock, Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point, South Dome, Piney Point, Liberty Cap, Mt. Broderick, Mt. Starr King, Cloud Peak, Unicorn Group, Mt. Washington and Mt. Clark, the snow melting and dashing down the mountain sides, the fleecy clouds flying to the north, and far below I beheld the glory of the far-off peaks as they jut up and beyond the rim of the blue horizon. CHAPTER XXVI. RETURN FROM CALIFORNIA. VISIT TO BRIGHAM YOUNG. PEN- SKETCHES OF OLD FRIENDS AND ASSOCIATES. On my return trip from California I stopped off for two days at .Salt Lake City to examine the collector's office, and take in the "malaria" of Mormonism. I put up at the Townsend House, visited the Mount Zion combination stores, the Bee- Hive and the Temple, rode out to Camp Douglas, and gazed in wonder upon the blooming fields that a fanatical religion had grasped out of the desert wastes of Utah. To cap the climax of my curiosity, I talked and dined with Brigham Young and two of his wives. He reminded me of a gnarled oak that had withstood the storms of centuries, and with his large head, thick neck and deep-set eyes, impressed me as a man of wonderful firmness, tenacity and indomitable perseverance, combined wich cunning, hope and tyranny. We talked freely of the prospects of Mormonism in the march of civilization, and he strongly in- sisted that the constitution of the United States guaranteed freedom of religion to every man and woman in the nation ; and that every human being was privileged to worship God ac- cording to the dictates of his conscience. I could not well combat this logic, and replied that it was not the mere ritual or creed of the Mormon religion that the people of the United States so objected to, but to the blister- ing doctrine of polygamy, where one man was accorded the right to take a hundred or a thousand women to satisfy his lust. He quickly replied : " Even in this we have the precedent of the old patriarchs, David and Solomon ; and if they were wrong, 216 A CHECKERED LIFE. 217 why do you preach their lives from your pulpits every day ? Throw away your Bible ; let your city men be honest and true to one wife, and not in midnight hours give loose to their pas- sions over the wine-cup and at the silken couches of illicit love. Mormonism tolerates no hypocrites. We practice what we preach, and preach what we practice in the sight of God and man ; and from a handful of devoted worshippers who followed in the footsteps of our chief prophet, Joseph Smith, and who revere his memory with undying affection, we plucked from the wilds of nature this rich territory, through the very religion you Gentiles ignorantly condemn ! No, sir, it is the cupidity and robbing propensity of the Christian that turns his hand in this direction, and his professed horror at polygamy is only a sub- terfuge for his grasping avarice \ and since he has " might" on his side, readily makes it " right" to prowl like a bold bandit amid these gold and silver mountains, rich valleys and fertile fields, in search of wealth, booty and empire ! ' ' I leave legislators and ministers to reply to these arguments, contenting myselt with the remembrance that I dined with one of the religion manufacturers of the world. I returned to St. Louis, and immediately visited Washington. The Commissioner of Internal Revenue was so well pleased with my work that he gave me an order to proceed to New York and New England to examine the collectors' and super- visors' offices in that region. It was the month of July, and while I did not go on my eastern tour for any special investigation, my orders would per- mit me to combine pleasure with business, just as presidents, senators, representatives, cabinet ministers and generals do in their tours of investigation and inspection, when the so-called " malaria" of Washington, drives them to Newport, Cape May, Coney Island, Long Branch, Saratoga and the Rocky Mount- ains. This is certainly a great country ! I returned to St. Louis in due course, and put on official harness with the same ease I had discarded it in my eastern tour. Politics and official business went hand in hand with me. 218 A CHECKERED LIFE. During the five years I lived in St. Louis I became acquaint- ed with a number of representative gentlemen. Among the most prominent of my associates were Col. J. C. Normile, William Patrick, Chester H. Krum, Thomas C. Fletcher and Nat Claiborne, of the law profession. Among journalists I held social relations with Stilson Hutch- ins, of the Times; Joseph Putlizer, of the Westlich Post ; Wil- liam M. Grosvenor, of the Democrat ; William Hyde, of the Republican, and Joseph B. McCullagh, of the Globe-Democrat. The stable and influential citizens who gave me their friend- ship were David Armstrong, Isaac Cook, E. O. Stanard, A. W. Slayback and James B. Eads. As each of these fifteen self-made men bore a prominent part in the make-up of the community who trusted and honored them, a pen-picture of each may not be uninteresting to the reader. *** Col. J. C. NORMILE was born in Ireland, on the banks of the Shannon, and emigrated with his parents at an early age to America. He went to school and graduated at the Georgetown Jesuit University in the District of Columbia, and afterwards studied law in the office of Hon. Thomas Ewing, ot Ohio. Secretary Browning, of Illinois, took great interest in Normile, and keen- ly appreciated the fund of literary information possessed by his young friend. While he was Secretary of the Interior, under President Johnson, Browning made Normile Librarian of the Interior Department, and was so well pleased with him that the young lawyer was a constant companion of the Secretary, sharing his home and hospitable board on the heights of Georgetown. When a change in the political complexion of the Depart- ments took place, on the advent of General Grant to the Ex- ecutive Chair, Col. Normile determined to resign his lucrative office, and cast his lot with the progressive citizens of the teeming West. He appeared in St. Louis a stranger, with no A CHECKERED LIFE. 21$ friend but his talents, and no fortune but that courage and in- domitable perseverance that never fails ultimately to secure success. It was soon discovered that Normile had unusual ability as a writer and orator, and when he first shone as a forensic debater and pleader in the celebrated Fore-Beech murder case, the whole bar as well as the press acknowledged him a master of magnetic eloquence, whose lacerating logic and classic periods went to the heart and soul of the vulnerable jury, securing an acquittal of a cold-blooded murderer, on the technical plea of insanity. The Democratic party, soon after the acquittal of Fore, nom- inated Col. Normile on their ticket for the position of Com- monwealth Attorney, and while some of the ticket was defeated, Normile was triumphantly elected, and served four years as district attorney, doing great credit to himself as a criminal prosecutor, and conferring honor upon his adopted state. What was very strange, and seemingly providential, the very man, Joe Fore, who was defended and acquitted through the instrumentality of Normile in the murder case, was afterwards prosecuted, convicted and sentenced to ten years' imprisonment for an assault, with intent to kill, upon his wife. Thus, as a defender and prosecutor, one man rises into fame upon the pivot of a criminal action, while the other unfortunate lan- guishes in lunatic desperation in a felon's cell, and finally dies by the knife of a fellow-prisoner. " God moves in a mysterious way His wonders to perfoim ; Me plants his footsteps in the sea And rides upon the storm." The declamations, speeches and orations ofrformile are va- rious, and his services were in continuous demand at every so- ciety and club entertainment, where Attic wit and poetic elo- quence struggled for the mastery. His oration appealing for the acquittal of Fore in the Beech murder case was a classic pro- duction, and worthy the oratorical flights of Wirt, Prentice or 220 A CHECKERED LIFE, Brady. His oration before the Knights of Saint Patrick, at a Southern Hotel banquet, might rank with the flowing periods of Sheridan, Meagher or O' Gorman; and wherever the Celtic race rises into the realms of mellifluous eloquence, the orations of Normile should be placed in the front rank of the impas- sioned productions. It was my privilege to be the intimate companion of Nor- mile for nearly five years; and while we differed in many characteristics, there was no break in our mutual confidence, and no frost-work to chill the warmth of our friendship. *** WILLIAM PATRICK was Assistant United States District Attor- ney, under Chester Krum, when I first made his acquaintance. He had been educated in Philadelphia, studied law, and moved to St. Louis, where he at once took rank as a gentleman of honor and a lawyer of unusual legal attainments. His form was built in the nervous, willowy, classic mould, and his blue eye flashed love or defiance as the lightning darts from a thunder-cloud to waste itself in airy nothingness, or strike the fatal blow. His keen perception of men and their motives made him a valuable acquisition to a client, and the same en- ergy, ability and honesty that guaranteed success to his civil clients was doubly enhanced when he became United States District Attorney for the Eastern District of Missouri. I was personally, politically and officially associated with Mr. Patrick for four years, and sounded the very secret springs of his enthusiastic nature. If you approached him with sin- cerity and honesty, he met you squarely on the same basis ; but if you attempted by innuendo and subterfuge to divine his will, he was as silent and mysterious as an Egyptian mummy. He was the Very soul of honor ; would not conspire to be- tray, and would not conciliate for profit or immunity. He performed his whole duty to the defendant and the Govern- ment ; and when a man threw up his hands and asked mercy, he was the first officer of the court to find some palliating circumstance to relieve the victim of the law. A CHECKERED LIFE. 221 As an officer, I always found him honest and faithful ; as a politician, he was reliable and unflinching ; as a friend, he was- generous and kind ; and as a man, he was noble and sincere. *** CHESTER H. KRUM was considered a learned young lawyer when he graduated from Harvard. His father, John M. Krum, had been practicing law in Missouri for more than forty years, and the detailed office knowledge imparted to the son made him at once a successful practitioner. When I first went to- St. Louis, I found Judge Krum in the position of United States- District Attorney, and was necessarily brought in contact with his office in the prosecution of revenue cases. His form was large, round and dignified ; and with his mild dark eye, matchless teeth and elevated forehead, he might have been taken for any of the double storied lawyers who have honored the bar and bench since the days of Lord Mansfield. When not officially engaged, we often met with a circle of choice spirits and whiled the hours away in hatching political plans, singing songs, or clinking glasses to the memory of our ancient friend Bacchus. Judge Krum was not demonstrative to ordinary acquaint- ances, but when he found a truthful and trustful spirit, the icy margin of formality faded away before the sunshine of confi- dence and friendship. *** THOMAS C. FLETCHER was born in De Soto, Missouri, stud- ied law, moved to St. Louis, became a major-general during the late Rebellion, and about the close of the war was elected Governor of his native state. He was the only Governor of Missouri who had been born in the state ; and although the commonwealth had been devoted to slavery in the old days, he never sanctioned or acknowledged the proposition that one man could rightfully own another as a chattel ; and as a result of this philosophy was elected a Republican Governor. Mr. Fletcher is a fine specimen of stalwart manhood, stand- ing six feet two inches, and weighing over two hundred pounds. 222 A CHECKERED LIFE. His head is massive, and his mild, enchanting eye never fails to secure confidence. His worst fault is his excess of good nature, that will not allow him to repel even those who may have injured him. Like the Vicar of Wakefield with his poor congregation "Careless their merits or their faults to scan, His pity gave ere charity began; Thus to relieve the wretched was his pride, And even his failings leaned to virtue's side." Mr. Fletcher is a good lawyer, a renowned orator, and an unchanging friend. He is incapable of performing a mean act ; and while he may be slow in reaching a given point, he never fails to reach it in the end. His Masonic brethren have reason to take pride in his truth, intelligence and nobility; for as an Eminent Commander of Knight Templars he presided with justice and dignity, leaving a memory that will blossom with a sweet perfume when the last sprig of acacia decorates his grave. His comrades who knew him in the army delight to honor his genius and good heart, and so long as the Army of the Tennessee or the loyal people for whom it fought shall cel- ebrate the victories of freedom, their friend and orator will not be forgotten. As a friend and client I tested the truth and fealty of Mr. Fletcher in the deepest vale of misfortune ; and while a con- catenation of unforeseen circumstances twined themselves about me like a group of deadly serpents, he never failed to strike their twisting grip or paralyze their efforts for my destruction. And when time and the sunshine of redemption brought peace and victory to my heart and home, he delighted to break bread at my board, and praise me for the fortitude I displayed when injustice and so-called reform sought my ruin. *** NAT. CLAIBORNE was born in the Old Dominion, in the re- gion of its earliest settlement, and imbibed from his surround- ings the miasma of slavery. Yet, in his inmost heart he never consented to the right of property in man, because his native A CHECKERED LIFE. 223 generosity, charity and love of liberty made him the natural enemy of oppression and wrong. Leaving Virginia at an early day, he came to St. Louis and began the practice of law. For the daily rut and routine of a law office he had little taste ; but when the Democratic party wanted an orator, or a special gathering needed a flowery and magnetic speaker, Claiborne was always in demand. I have seen him on the hustings electrify even the opposition, and with his broad provincial pronunciation, magnetize the crowd into continuous applause, or sadden their hearts with his tales of woe. I met him often under the gas-lights when his gen- erous nature found relief in the wine-cup, and his heart and tongue bounded away in song and story, as light as the mist on the mountain. I shall long remember the night at the Pacific Hotel in St. Joseph, when the state commissioners determined to locate the lunatic asylum in that flourishing city. John L. Bittenger, Zach. Mitchell, Mr. Hax, Joe Rickey, Tom Walsh, Mr. Koch, Col. Parker, Mr. Toole, Col. Wilkinson and a number of other jolly spirits, assembled in the double parlors of the hotel to celebrate in fluid form the decision of the commissioners, and particularly to expatiate upon the natural distribution of the fifteen thousand dollars that the citizens of St. Joseph contrib- uted as a practical argument in their favor, as against the other cities of Missouri. " Uncle Johnny" Able, as he was fondly called by " the boys," did the heavy part as host. Champagne flowed like water from a town pump, and as soon as one basket of Mumm was empty, another was opened with neatness and dispatch. About midnight a band of three darkey minstrels was ushered into the parlors. One played a banjo, the other a double mouth- organ, and a small specimen from Congo performed on the triangle. Doors were locked, and none were admitted without the royal countersign "Mumm." The occasion and philosophy of the meeting made this kind of a pass-word appropriate and 22 4 A CHECKERED LIFE. invaluable. The boys were hot, and threw their garments right and left as a relief to their volcanic condition. Nat Claiborne proposed a dance to the classic tune of " Shoo- fly," and the Congo minstrels struck up the air in their most inimitable style, while a circle of ghosted mortals swung through the mazy dance with their under garments floating in the breeze of freedom, and their hair standing on end like a collec- tion of serpents on the heads of the Furies. Nature was finally exhausted, the band departed, the lights were turned low, Mor- pheus usurped his magical reign, and the "good and true" citizens of Missouri slept the sleep of the innocent and just ! I hope the boys will forgive me for " giving them away" just once, but if they wish to swear to the falsity of the foregoing charges, I shall attribute the tale to poetry and romance, leav- ing the god Mercury to bear the brunt of their eccentricities. V STILSON HUTCHINS, formerly editor of the St. Louis Times, was born among the sterile hills of New England, and imbibed early in life that spirit of self-reliance and ambition co-exten- sive with Yankee land. He came from the humblest walks of life, and the streets of Boston have often echoed to the sound of his boyish footsteps in search of work and bread. The crowded haunts of his native clime were not congenial to his impulsive nature, and with a bold heart and willing hand he emigrated to the banks of the Mississippi, and pursued the uncertain life of a newspaper reporter. I first saw him in Du- buque, Iowa, in 1865, when engaged on the Herald virih. Den- nis Mahoney, who had been imprisoned in Fort Lafayette for alleged treason against the government. I met Hutchins again in St. Louis in 1870, as the managing man of the Times, and a free lance in journalism. He and genial John Hodnett were the life of the paper, cutting right into the business and circu- lation of papers that had been established from thirty to sixty years.- His race in St. Louis was long and brilliant ; and nei- ther trouble nor misfortune could break his spirit, dull his A CHECKERED LIFE. 225 ambition, or dim the luster of his editorial genius. In spite of the most vindictive opposition in his own party, the Democrats of St. Louis sent him to the Legislature, where he achieved a reputation for pluck, honesty and legislative daring second to that of no other member. As Chairman of the Ways and Means Committee, he became the leader of the House, and actually dictated many of the laws that now adorn the statute books of Missouri. He divines at once the motives of men, possessing unlimited audacity, combined with faithfulness and remarkable secretive powers, fights inside the circle and never betrays his fellows to the cold sneer of the rabble world. Nature and art he twists to his own uses ; and while generous to a fault, he never neg- lects to take particular care of number one. In this respect he is only following out the unalterable laws of self-preservation, and protecting his material interests against the sharks that lie in wait to entrap the unwary. The social cheer of Hutchins is unbounded, and when the cares of daily life are ended, he rollicks away with his compan- ions as free as a boy let loose from school. As an after-dinner speaker he is unequaled, as a singer of charming melody he cannot be easily matched, and as a story-teller he is inimitable. He possesses a strong healthy frame, a square-cut brow, a bright, laughing eye, a face like a broad-axe, a heart that throbs like a steam engine, and a soul that is absolutely irrepressible. Had he been educated in the school of a soldier, or trained in the upper walks of military life, the dash of Murat, McPherson or Sheridan might have characterized his warlike career. I was intimately acquainted with Hutchins during my official career in St. Louis, and had ample opportunity to sound his capacity, generosity and honesty, and never found him want- ing in these characteristics, but as true and faithful to a prom- ise once given as the stars to their destined sphere. In the last few years I have frequently met him at the Na- tional Capital as editor and proprietor of the Post, and the same pluck, perseverange and capacity that he brought to his 22 6 A CHECKERED LIFE. work in St. Louis has at last guaranteed him a magnificent suc- cess in Washington. *** JOSEPH PULITZER, the editor and proprietor of the St. Louis Evening Post-Dispatch, and present proprietor of the New York World, is a stalwart son of the Fatherland. Nature fashioned him above many of his companions, and a rugged experience has polished him into a success. He emigrated when a boy to America, and when first he appeared in St. Louis, secured his bread by daily labor. He fought for the Union during the late Rebellion, and afterwards became a newspaper reporter and writer for the Westlich Post, one of the best German journals in the nation. In time Pulitzer became part owner of the Post, and while see-sawing between the two political parties, occu- pied several places of honor and profit in city, county and state governments. When Missouri determined, a few years since, to break loose from the " Drake Constitution," she sent a number of her most prominent citizens to Jefferson City to make a new one, and Mr. Pulitzer was chosen from the city of St. Louis to aid in the manufacture of the present organic law. He is a bold, intellectual, sarcastic character, taking the world as "mine oyster," throwing the shells to the rabble, while he swallows the succulent bivalve with that grace and dignity conjured out of the precincts of a superior nature. Had Pulitzer lived in the days of Lessing, Kent and Goethe, he might have aspired to the literature and philosophy of these renowned Germans, and even now he is capable of writing a solid editorial on any subject his mind attempts to fathom ; while as an orator he shines with force and brilliancy, never failing to impress his audience by the beauty of his words and the intensity of his action. *** Col. WILLIAM M. GROSVENOR is a natural Bohemian, not from a foreign clime, but from the green hills of New England. He is also a natural politician, taking to political intrigue as A CHECKERED LIFE. 22 y easily and felicitously as the most renowned diplomat takes to brandy, confidence and lying. As a financial and political writer he has few equals in America, and no superior. He was for many years editor of the St. Louis Democrat, and impressed the stamp of his wild genius upon that paper. There is no reason why he should not have been in the Congress of the United States as a representative or senator, for surely he had more practical, active, brilliant brains than Brown, Drake or Schurz. He was for many years the power behind the throne upon which these men sat ; and although William McKee, the proprietor of the Democrat, possessed unusual political sagacity, he always deferred to the broad-axe logic of Grosvenor. I have often, over the wine cup in midnight hours, talked politics, patriotism and financial business with Con. Maguire and Col. Grosvenor in the snuggery of John King, under the Planter's House, and I must say that for fine conversational ability Grosvenor could not be easily matched. On the hust- ings he was forcible and brilliant ; having that swinging, debo- nair manner that magnetized an audience, and elicited the loudest applause by his beautiful flights of fancy and the logi- cal periods that fell from his eloquent lips. *** WILLIAM HYDE, of the Republican, is the opposite of Col. Grosvenor in off-hand brilliancy ; but as a solid, staying char- acter, he has no equal among St. Louis journalists. As a par- tisan, he is conservative ; as a friend, he is true and unflinch- ing, and as a solid, fearless man, he is safe. He is one of the characters that average well, and while many of his compeers grow threadbare with time, he "wears" the whole year round, and his friends find the latch-string to his home and heart hang- ing just where they left it. Although Mr. Hyde and myself were of opposite political sentiments, we never let that interfere with our social cheer when John and George Knapp joined us at the fascinating fount of Jaccoby, who dispensed decoctions fit for the most esthetic followers of Bacchus. 228 A CHECKERED LIFE. George Knapp, the senior proprietor of the Republican, was a man of the kindest heart, and one of the oldest and best newspaper men in the nation. His word was his bond, and his judgment invariably safe. V J. B. McCuLLAGH, editor of the Globe-Democrat, was born in Dublin, Ireland, and like millions of his race, emigrated to America to find fame and fortune as the result of thought and labor. After arriving in the New World he performed the drudgery of a newspaper office in various places, and was for some years connected with the Cincinnati Enquirer and Com- mercial as reporter, correspondent and editorial writer. Dur- ing the war he was known as a very enterprising correspondent from the front of battle, and on one occasion was so enterprising in getting news ahead of his compeers, that General Grant or- dered him out of the lines. When Andy Johnson became President, " Lktle Mack" was writing for the Cincinnati pa- pers, and upon a great issue between the President and Con- gress in the days of Reconstruction, the irrepressible Celt had along "interview" with Mr. Johnson, and sent it broadcast through the country. This was a novel stroke in journalism, being the original "interview" of all the interviews that have taken place since. During the editorial career of " Mack" he has coined a num- ber of words, among them "skedaddle," "blizzard" and "boom." The first means the running away of a soldier, the second means a fierce, frosty Texas wind-storm, and the third means a great rise in public opinion, as a flood might rise in the mountains and float millions of saw-logs to the deep waters below. As an epigrammatic writer he is unequaled. He can tag a friend or an enemy with a word or phrase that will follow him to his grave. The most caustic, pinching paragraphs fall from his facile pen, and he grasps with almost unerring knowledge the drift of public opinion. Naturally he is a Democrat, but through policy and interest, party harness falls upon him very A CHECKERED LIFE. 22 g lightly ; and while he may of late years have voted the Repub- lican ticket, yet, on general principles, he votes for the man and not the party. ^ I have seen McCullagh 'and Hutchins break lances of fun and wit at Southern Hotel banquets, and it was better than a 'circus to witness the jolly eccentricities of these inimitable wags over the "walnuts and wine" in midnight hours. /I was intimate with "Mack" during most ol my official career in St. Louis ; and if Bonnett and Frank Gregory are alive, they may remember how, on Fourth street and in the resort on Pine street, we cracked jokes to the music of champagne artillery. It was a "cold day" when " Mack" refused a fine bird-supper or a wine-bath, and I must say that his fellow journalists of St. Louis never failed to play "Barkis" to my"Peggoty." They were the most generous fellows I ever knew with another man's purse a remarkable weakness of all "good and true" Bohemians. V Hon. DAVID H. ARMSTRONG was born in Nova Scotia, and came to St. Louis more than forty years ago. He taught school for awhile, and earned a fine reputation in teaching the young idea how to shoot. He engaged in politics soon after his advent to Missouri, and never failed to talk, work and fight for the Democratic party. At one time he was postmaster of St. Louis, and for many years held the position of chairman of the Democratic State Central Committee. During the war he was in constant hot water with the Union soldiers and citizens, for while he may not have believed in the dissolution of the Union, he insisted that everything should be done according to the "constitution of the fathers." He forgot that murder- ous war wiped out all constitutions, and that bayonets were put above all constitutional provisions. The war closed in Missouri with seventy thousand men who sympathized and fought for the South, disfranchised by the " Drake Constitution." Through the instrumentality of Col. Armstrong and his trade with Gratz Brown & Co., the Liberal 2 30 A CHECKERED LIFE. ticket was elected in 1870, and every man in Missouri was as good as his neighbor, and as the Hibernian says, " a great deal better." When the labor-strikes of 1876 paralyzed the business of the country, as if an electric shock had passed through the body politic, Armstrong was police commissioner of St. Louis ; and as the controlling spirit of the board, marched his policemen and militia to the revolutionary rendezvous of the rioters, and dispersed them at the point of the bayonet. He is a very rug- ged character. Look at him from a surface view, and you be- hold the lion, who has warred with trouble and bitter exper- ience. But on a closer view, his friends know that the gray and gnarled oak is of sterling worth, a loving friend who will grasp your hand in the vale of adversity, and shed a tear with the sweet pathos of a beautiful woman upon the ruin that mis- fortune may have wrought. A nobler or kinder heart never beat in man ; and when even his bold record as a United States Senator is forgotten, the memory of his blunt but generous deeds will blossom from the dust of Bellefontaine and be remem- bered by every one who hates hypocrisy and loves liberty. *** ISAAC COOK, President of the American Wine Company, is a man of the strongest will, and a citizen of the finest judg- ment. The memory of living man does not run back to his early boyhood, and it has been quietly suggested by Charley Warner that " Ike" never had a boyhood, but was born when he was a hundred and eighty years old. Some say that he was a sign painter with Michael Angelo, and aided in frescoing the dome of St. Peter. But others have alleged that he and Sen- ator Douglass learned the Cabinet business in Vermont, and made Bureaus for the United States Government in Washing- ton and Chicago. He knew how to "keep hotel," at any rate ; for the Amer- ican House in Chicago was for many years the resort of "good fellows' ' and the Democratic party, and the same was presided over by Ike Cook. A CHECKERED LIFE. 231 Stephen A. Douglass was at one time the bosom friend of Cook ; but when the Senator broke away from President Bu- chanan upon the question of squatter sovereignty, Mr. Cook proposed to remain and run the Chicago post-office in the in- terest of the Administration. He made a notable speech on one occasion to "the boys" who assembled with banners, torch-lights and thirst in front of his mansion. In standing by his cause, he wound up with the following peroration: "Boys, ' Truth squashed to earth will rise again/ and I'll bet you a thousand dollars on it ! " V E. O. STANARD is a fine specimen of western manhood. His early life was spent in Iowa, from which state he removed to Illinois, and taught school. He appeared in St. Louis as a stranger, and soon began a successful business career. For many years he carried on the business of milling wheat, and his brand of flour is known all over the world. As a member of the Merchants' Exchange, and as its President, he secured the confidence of all with whom he traded, and his word for a car, train or ship load of grain is as good as gold. He has been successful in the political field, being elected Lieut. -Governor of Missouri, and afterwards honored with a seat in Congress by his Republican constituents. It is not generally known that while Mr. Stanard was in Congress he did as much as any man in that body for the interest of the navi- gation of the Mississippi River, and while a member of the commerce committee secured the enactment of the law that gave James B. Eads the privilege of making the jetties a suc- cess. I was on the floor of the House the very day the bill was passed, and saw Stanard in constant and earnest argument with the halting and indifferent, urging them to support the claims of the Mississippi Valley, and impressing them with the com- mercial necessity of a free, unimpeded river to the gulf and ocean. The jetty system has proved a great success. Where light- ers took millions from the pockets of producers and merchants, 232 A CHECKERED LIFE. by transferring freight from ocean vessels over a bar with only nine feet of water, the largest ocean steamer drawing twenty- five or thirty feet can now steam up to the wharves at New Orleans and discharge and ship the products of all climes. The action of Eads and Stanard has made bread cheaper, and every citizen of the Union to-day profits by their genius. *** A. W. SLAYBACK, previous to the war, was a lawyer in St. Joseph, Missouri. When the first gun of rebellion sounded, he thought it his duty to go down to the front of battle and fight for the Southern Confederacy. Thought and action go hand in hand with such dashing characters, and leaving relatives and friends behind, he fought over three years for the "stars and bars" and the "lone star of Texas." When the " Lost Cause" furled its banner forever, Slay back took a trip to Mexico with a colony of defeated Confederates, intending, no doubt, to deprive the United States of his brains and genius ; but a longing for the rolling hills of Missouri took possesion of his mind in the gloomy vales of exile, and hearing that a parental government was not going to cut his head off, as had often been the case in other lands where rebel- lion suffered defeat, he quietly came back to that state, and found the world going on just as naturally as if he and his self- exiled party had not spurned the embrace of Uncle Sam. He settled in St. Louis, and at once took position as a talented and pugnacious lawyer one whose whole hand and heart went together with the untiring force of a steam engine. As a fiery and brilliant orator, Slayback had few equals ; and the very intensity of his periods and gestures forced conviction on the mind of the listener. His address upon the occasion of the decoration of soldiers' graves by the "blue" and the "gray," in May, 1872, was a fine production. His reasons for the surrender of the Southern soldiers were criticized by his own comrades ; and as there is a great deal of philosophy and good sense in his remarks, I give herewith the reasons as he stated them : A CHECKERED LIFE, 233 " I will tell you why the Southern soldiers grew weary of the contest and surrendered their arms. It was because, after all their privations and losses, and cruel grief over the bloody graves of their fallen comrades, they began to look to the future, and to say : e Well, what then ? ' Made wiser by the stern education of war, their love of constitutional liberty made them tremble for the consequence of final success. They saw that the end of the war in that way would be the begin- ning of others. They cast their eyes upon the government at Richmond, and its constitution recognizing the right of any state, in certain contingencies, to set up a certain nationality .or itself, with its little president and little senate, its little su- preme court and its little navy, with its Palmetto, its Pelican, or its Lone Star for its flag ; and the soldier began to ask him- self, 'For what am I fighting?' Will my children be better off when the wrongs I am redressing shall have been succeeded by others of greater magnitude ? Will my constitutional rights that will remain to me in any event be as safe under the new nationality as under the old ? And what can posterity gain by exchanging for still another experiment the illustrious fabric that Washington, Hamilton, Jefferson, Adams and the brave, wise and good men who shared their counsels and dangers es- tablished and bought with the blood of my ancestry of the Rev- olution of 1776 ?' It was this appalling logic which fastened upon the minds of the Southern soldiers, " Like a phantasmia or hideous dream," ana then and not until then did their hearts begin to fail them. Hence it was that when they furled their flag, they furled it for- ever. Hence it was that when they laid down their arms, they did so with the full expectation, wish and understanding that the flag they had fought should become the emblem of their chosen nationality, and that henceforth and forever these states should be in fact, as in name, the United States of America ! ' ' The logic of this speech, to my mind, is irresistible ; and while many insist that the ex-Confederates laid down their arms because they were overpowered by brute force, I still be- lieve that thousands were inspired with the reason thus given by Col. Slayback, and could truthfully exclaim with the divine bard, that it is far better to " Bear those ills \ve have, Than fly to others that we know not of!" A CHECKERED LIFE The killing of Slayback, in self-defense, by John A. Cocke- rill, is too recent for me to comment upon ; the public being thoroughlyconversant with the sad affair. *** Captain JAMES B. EADS is a man of remarkable perseverance and of extraordinary genius. His perceptive faculties are largely developed, and his head might serve as a companion piece to that of Bismarck or Humboldt. Sir Christopher Wren and John A. Robeling were never in- spired by a larger scope of ambition in the profession of engi- neering and architectural skill than Eads. He is equal to any emergency. When the United States Government wanted iron- clad boats to ply up and down the waters of the Mississippi Valley during the late war, Captain Eads jumped into the arena, and fitted out a number of iron-clads to guard the com- merce of the West. When St. Louis stood halting for many years as to connec- tions with the East, with small ferries and a river of ice at its front door, it was Eads that came forward, and threw across the Mississippi one of the finest and strongest steel bridges in the world, resting on piers and abutments that take hold of the "rock of ages. ' ' When the mouth of the Father of Waters became filled and choked with the sands of centuries brought down from the golden ribs of the Rocky Mountains, it was Eads who planned and executed the herculean task of a national dentist, and tore away its snaggled teeth and lumpy roots, giving to the nation a free river to the bounding billows of the ocean. Foolish people talk over and haggle about the cost of iron- clads, bridge and jetty, but if they cost a hundred fold more, the state and nation would be the winner ; and when the buz- zing May-flies of to-day are forgotten, the great and glorious engineering feats of James B. Eads will be cherished and re- membered by a grateful and prosperous country. He needs no monument but his generous deeds, and no glory but the magnificent works he fashioned and erected ; and when a thous- A CHECKERED LIFE. 235 and years hence Macaulay's wandering traveler from New Zea- land shall rest and contemplate upon the broken arches and toppling piers of the St. Louis bridge, the name of Eads will shine out bright and clear amid the wrecks of tide and time. *** THE OWL CLUB, of St. Louis, was composed of a number of choice spirits. They were mostly newspaper men, who could drink with the ease of a fish, talk wit, and sing in the tones of a mocking-bird. They would have been appreciated around Covent Garden in the literary London of long ago. Eugene Field was a poetic leader, a rare genius in midnight hours, and a Bohemian of infinite resources. He could sing like a thrush and talk like an orator. Billy Steiggers is a wiry, impulsive, good-hearted mortal, who brought wit and rare songs to " The Owls," and never re- fused to bathe his classic form with the imperial vintage of Ike Cook. Estell McHenry was a Kentuckian, and learned in his col- lege days some sweet darkey melodies. His voice was rich and high, and when he sang the " Pea Vine," and appealed to " Ca'line" to "dance," the boys could not resist the impulse to execute the "grape-vine twist." George Gilson was a never-failing attendant at the meetings of the " Owl Club." He would miss a meal or fail to attend church rather than absent himself from the vocal conclave. My songs, "Go Way Old Man," "Lula," "Dearest May," "Karney," "Off to Baltimore," "The Tramp," and "Old Ken- tucky Home," never failed to secure a rich chorus. Some- times before church began on summer evenings, the " Owls" would spare a few lingering moments at " Lupe's," "George's" and "Harry Hall's," and give to the crowd waiting at the Post Office "corners" a foretaste of the hymns awaiting them in the solemn aisles of Christian worship. I have known many in- stances, however, where the congregation assembled to hear the "Owl Club" far exceeded the drowsy listeners to the 23 6 A CHECKERED LIFE ministers. But there is no accounting for taste in this queer world of ours. Frank Gooley, a faithful mason and true man, was a veteran member of the " Owl Club," but sad, to relate, his loving, so- cial light went out forever in the smoke and fire of the South- ern Hotel. Peace to his ashes, a tear for his loss ; Gone to the home of the crown and the cross ! CHAPTER XXVII. THE WHISKEY TROUBLES. MY INDICTMENT, TRIAL AND IMPRIS- ONMENT. ADDRESSES TO THE COURT AND JURY, ETC. In the winter of 1874 and 1875, tne agitation of the third icrrn question for President was favorably considered by one class of citizens, while another class fiercely assailed any one who dared to indulge in such outrageous opinions. The Civil Service and Political Reform Association of Amer- ica were surcharged with the idea that if General Grant should be nominated and elected President for a third term, the na- tion would sink into indistinguishable ruin, and liberty itself take flight into the realms of oblivion. Something must be done to save the Republic from the clutches of a tyrant and a usurper, who had once accidentally conquered a rebellion against the Union ! The stride of the modern Caesar to imperial power must be checked at all haz- zard. What should be done ? A conclave of these patriotic reformers met in New York, and, imitating the tailors in Tooley street, resolved themselves into the people of the United States. Some person must be found who was in a position to knife the administration under the fifth rib, bring disgrace upon the President and his politi- cal friends, scandal to the nation, and disgust for laws only enforced to minister to the ambition of a man who was flat- tered by his henchmen into the belief that he would ride in triumph into the presidential chair on a wave of reform. Benjamin H. Bristow, of Kentucky, was the Brutus selected by political conspirators to stab and tumble down from his ex- alted station the President of the United States. A more wil- ling individual could not be found to deal the blow or stab 237 2 3 3 A CHECKERED LIFE. the man who lifted him from an obscure country lawyer in a Dorder state, through the successive grades of district attorney and solicitor general, to the Secretaryship of the Treasury. In every land and clime, where government taxes whiskey as the product of grain, more or less defrauding of the revenue has taken place. In Germany, France, England, Scotland and Ireland the tillers of the soil in their mountain fastnesses have spurned with contempt the proposition to tax the product of their soil, and have evaded payment of revenue whenever pos- sible. In the days of Washington, a good share of the people of Pennsylvania refused to pay taxes, and the great general of our Revolutionary War had to send troops to crush out the famous "Whiskey Rebellion." In our times certain people of Missouri, Tennessee, Georgia and Kentucky have, in daily defiance of revenue laws, distilled the products of their soil in the gulches of rough hills and on the tops of high mountains. The "Moonshiner" and his fam- ily, since the war, have been objects of constant pursuit and prosecution ; yet, even down to this very hour, che govern- ment of the United States has not been able to stamp out the small kettle whiskey manufacturers of the mountains Why ? There is a natural idea of independence in the breast of the rough farmer and stalwart backwoodsman, that says what na- ture yields under his laborious hand can be manufactured and sold without a hoard of petty officers hounding his footsteps. There are many of these rude swains who have never seen a revenue law or suffered the black-mail inspection of local ty- rants. They never consider chat it is the province of govern- ment to provide "ways and means" to maintain its own ex- istence in peace and war, and, therefore, regard the taxing of their grain crops as tyrannical. In the cities of the Un ; on there are larger establishments for the distillation of spirituous liquors, and the parties running these distilleries have a better knowledge of their rights and duties under the laws than the rural citizen who acts on '' his own hook" among his native hills. A CHECKERED LIFE. 2 39 In the spring of 1875, it was determined by the Secretary of the Treasury, in furtherance of his scheme for the presidency, to make a bold raid upon the distilleries in several of the West- ern states, where General Grant was considered strong. After agents and political strikers had been investigating for many months, the Secretary, on the tenth of May, 1875, pounced down simultaneously upon distilleries in Ohio, Indiana, Wis- consin, Illinois and Missouri, and seized indiscriminately a large number of liquor establishments. He procured the ar- rest of distillers, collectors, agents and supervisors. Then the associated press from Washington, New York, Cincinnati, Chi- cago and St. Louis began an incessant fire of newspaper bullets, making the Secretary the greatest reformer of his time, con- signing every man, woman and child in the whiskey business to the hospitable walls of a penitentiary. Mole-hills of revenue frauds were manufactured by the Civil Service Reformers into mountains of corruption ; mountains were exalted to the fiery heights of volcanic ruin, and the Re- public was on the down grade to the realms of Pluto ! The rebellion that Grant put down was not a circumstance to the danger arising to the nation from the copper kettle of the fraudulent distiller ; and while he may have defrauded the government out of a thousand dollars a year, the newspaper press was certain that at least a million had been stolen by each distiller, rectifier and officer in the country. During the summer of 1875 tne United States Grand Jury was assembled in St. Louis and Jefferson City, and a cloud of witnesses were sent before these " good and true men" for the purpose of indicting every man that would not bow down to Bristow, and raise his hands and voice to the coming Moses of reform. Detectives were as thick in St. Louis as maggots around a corpse ; and the room of the district attorney was the scene of poor, little, cowardly creatures, who always run at the first crack of the rifle, and beg on their trembling knees immunity from the imagined terrors of imprisonment. 240 A CHECKERED LIFE. After six weeks of detailed threats and secret investigation, a large batch of whiskey men, citizens and officers, were indict- ed by the Grand Jury ; the majority of the jury being political enemies of President Grant. Among the rest, I was indicted for an alleged conspiracy to defraud the revenue, the written instrument stating that I had knowledge that fraud was committed by distillers and rectifiers, and did not report the same to my superior officers, as provid- ed in section 5440 of the United States Statutes. I gave bond in the sum of twenty-five thousand dollars for my personal ap- pearance at the next term of court. The Grand Jury had heard of me so much in their six weeks' investigation, that they concluded to summon me as a witness, just before they adjourned sine die. I was surprised when Marshall Newcomb served upon me a paper to appear forthwith before the Grand Jury, feeling outraged that the secret " Star Chamber" that had indicted me should add insult to injury by the official summons. I walked from the Planter's House down Olive street, to the court-house on Third street, and slowly mounted the gloomy staircase to the dark jury-room in the top corner of the ancient building. The more I thought of their desire to see me as a curiosity, and humiliate me as a man, the more did my heart shake up its resenting powers ; and I ached for the opportunity to show my disgust for the loyal, rebel, Dolly Varden conclave of Bris- tow conspirators. When I entered the room I saw a long table with about twenty men ranged around, gaping at me with a leer of curios- ity and imbecility upon their dark faces. The district attorney and the foreman, with a short-hand reporter, sat at the head of the reputation slaughter-table. The foreman motioned me to the front, told me to hold up my hand and be sworn. I declined to be sworn at that time, and placing my hand on the back of a chair addressed the jury in about the following language : A CHECKERED LIFE. 241 Gentlemen of the Jury : On the eve of your adjournment, after a six weeks' scandal- hunt, and after my indictment by your body, you have deemed it proper to summon me to answer certain questions. My indictment was secured by perjured testimony, after a promise of immunity by the district attorney to the thieves he manipulates for his official expectations. It is the first shadow of disgrace that has ever fallen across my pathway, and as your body has put this stain and trouble upon me, I shall now, and to the end of these persecutions, give you and the political offi- cers of the government all the defiance I can master. You have acted, not for the enforcement of the revenue laws, but to further the presidential ambition of the Secretary of the Treas- ury, and this Venetian council are simply his tools. I decline to be sworn by this jury, and shall not answer ex- cept I am compelled by His Honor, Judge Treat. I know my rights, and know full well that your only object is to twist me into saying something that may injure myself or friends, which I do not propose to do. Now, gentlemen, please consider that I have treated you with all the contempt in my power, and I defy you to perform your worst." After an hour or so, the district attorney fixed up a paper re- porting me as an unwilling witness to the court ; and with the foreman I was mustered before the august tribunal of justice, and underwent investigation by Judge Treat. He turned to the statute, and said that I was not compelled to answer any questions that would militate against myself, but it would be best for me to be sworn, and then do in the premises what I thought right. I consented to comply with the rulings of His Honor, went again to the Grand Jury room, was sworn, and answered a number of questions propounded to me by the district attorney, to the infinite disappointment and disgust of the jury. I was finally released as an unusually stubborn witness, and since I knew nothing of wrong against General O. E. Babcock or 16 242 A CHECKERED LIFE. President Grant, these political conspirators had no further use for me. The whole prosecution was inaugurated and contin- ued for the purpose of smirching the occupants of the White House. The same character of indictment was found against me in the Western District of Missouri that had been secured in the Eastern District ; the prosecution having determined to make sure of me anyhow, and put me on the legal rack at the first court assembled in Jefferson City. The most outrageous newspaper lies were sent all over the country about me. One day I had sailed to Europe from the port of New York with a hundred thousand dollars in a grip- sack. The next day I had jumped my bail bcr.d, and gone to Mexico. Soon after, I had committed suicide by leaping from the St. Louis bridge, and the next moment my wife had died of a broken heart in consideration of the ruin I had wrought. All this vacation time I was drinking spring water and other exhilarating fluids near Green Lake, Wisconsin, dancing and singing at the Oakwood Hotel, jesting with beautiful tourists, fishing for bass and pickerel in the green waters of the lake, and in twilight hours wandering in the grove with my wife and her lady friends, rollicking away in love and poetry. If the newspaper puritans knew how happy I was, and the real indifference I felt at their efforts to put me in prison, a hardware factory would not be sufficient to furnish files for their biting. Political sycophants and personal cowards had little concep- tion of the determined character they were dealing with ; for if they but knew it, even the scaffold has no more terrors for me than the prison, when my heart and soul are grounded in the right. But the human midgets who pursued me had no thought of what a true man will do when pursued by political frauds. In life they doubt and hate themselves, and in death they are detested and forgotten. Complications existing between the duplicate indictment at Jefferson City and the one in St. Louis, culminated in my A CHECKERED LIFE. 243 sueing out a writ of habeas corpus touching the matter of arrest and bail. The case was heard before the full bench of the United States Court. Justice Miller, of the Supreme Court, Judge Dillon, of the Circuit Court, and Judge Treat, of the District Court, heard the motion for release from arrest. When the hour arrived, Marshal C. A. Newcomb produced me in court with his return to the writ. The court-house was full of anxious and curious spectators. My lawyer was not present to argue the motion, so I concluded to argue the case myself, not- withstanding the old adage that, " A man who acts as his own lawyer has a fool for a client. ' ' But I have never been much alarmed at the axioms sharpers set up to control cowards. The following short speech was made to the bench, with a spirit of satire and earnestness : " May it please the court, I have to say, Ji reply to the hasty action of the marshal in returning the writ of habeas corpus before the expiration of the three days allowed him by law, that my attorney, Judge Chester H. Krum, is now in Jefferson City, and will not probably return before Saturday. In con- sideration of this fact, I pray your honor to grant me the five days allowed by law in which to prepare for the defense of my personal liberty. I am ready and willing to give bail for any charges that are pending against me in Jefferson City, but as I am under bond to appear here from day to day, and not being endowed with the elements of ubiquity, I trust this honorable court will hold me to answer its demands on the principle that the first mort- gage takes precedence against all subsequent claims. Like Des- demona, I have a divided duty to perform, and while I shall give to Brabantio all the legal friendship that is asked, I give to Othello that love born of respect and duty. Notwithstanding the cowardly reports of the newspapers that I had absconded for foreign lands and was a fugitive from jus- tice, I stand here to-day as a voluntary testimonial to their falsehoods. While life lasts, I shall never desert my family, 244 A CHECKERED LIFE. my honor, or the duty I owe my fellow man ; and all I ask, standing here upon the threshold of the courts of my country, is simple, unadulterated justice. " Justice Miller said the matter could stand over till Monday next. He also stated that he knew of no reason why the pris- oner could not give bail in St. Louis without being required to go to Jefferson City for that purpose. It was consoling to know that through the spring and sum- mer of 1875, tne friends in and out of power, whom I had known for many years, never lost faith in me. I append hereto an autograph letter, by permission, from General F. E. Spinner, who had been for more than fourteen years the watch dog of the Treasury, but who was finally forced out of office by Bristow, because he would not "Bend the preg- nant hinges of the knee, that thrift might follow fawning. ' ' In the midst of my legal troubles, I called at the headquar- ters of Gen. W. T. Sherman for the purpose of getting a copy of his Memoirs of the Rebellion. He was located in St. Louis at the time, with most of his staff gentlemen whom I met in the social walks of life. Col. Audenried, a brave and gallant gentleman, ushered me into the General's room. We greeted each other as soldier acquaintances, and I disclosed my busi- ness with the remark that I should be pleased to have him write his name in his Memoirs as a remembrance. He at once said : "Joyce, what is this infernal thing I see in the papers about whiskey indictments against yourself and others?" I told him it was nothing out a political move of the Secre- tary of the Treasury, to bring himself into national notice on a very small capital, and, as a reformer, endeavor to clutch the Presidency. Sherman said : "You know I am an everlasting friend of a good and brave soldier, and what I want to know from you is this : Are you right, or are you wrong ? If wrong, I'm against you; and if right, I'll stand by you to the last," % 4 ^ -, ^-if|J\> ^if t vkl L>WS ^-9 ^ S^-K^ 33 1 , ^14 v * id .^iN ! ^o : !^STiJiir7J-;n *-N ^ *>t \i ^ ^ M $' ^ 1 ^=- s J^' > ^ v , 'a i ^j J Jx I 4 < * s4 ^ AI 5 J-> i^pJv 1 vi i if U ^5 )f ^' xj J j| ~r -M-l , -4 ! ^ ; .^ .^u S T rt^ ilY '* ^1 \^ <^Sc ^ *< ^ I IWiA^i-? i ll\j **i4l * , ^11afjM% ^^ ,,- ^ s -> k^o ' i^ V9 4 < A 4 3l-I> ^ 3 IT 43* s; c^ 246 A CHECKERED LIFE. I assured him I was right, and that in the coming years he would be convinced of my truth and integrity. Upon the fly- leaf of his book he then placed the following inscription : " Inscribed to my friend and fellow soldier, Lieut.-Col. John A. Joyce, who bears an honorable wound received at Kenesaw. With the compliments and best wishes of W. T. SHERMAN, Saint Louis, General. June 24, 1875. Bristow was desperately in earnest in pushing uny trial at Jefferson when his henchmen at St. Louis found that I could not be used for his political ambition. Orders had gone out to the District Attorney to push me at once to trial, and force me into measures or prison. The newspapers kept up a fusillade of buck and ball, shot and shell. Detectives were on the track of every man who dared to sympathize with the indicted parties, and it was worth a citizen's reputation to go upon the bond of any defendant. A long, snaky, sniveling hypocrite wearing the harness of the Department of Justice in St. Louis, did not hesitate to throw odium on some of the best people of Missouri who had the bravery to stand by friends for their personal appearance when the courts demanded their presence. This walking blacksnake even telegraphed to District Att'y Botsford that the bond I had given was a "straw" bond, although the day of the receipt of the dispatch I was present in the court-room of Judge Krekel, who rebuked the superserviceable official toady by stating that if the bond was "straw," the gentleman himself was not. My case was called up in September before Arnold Krekel, the United States District Judge ; and while I gave twelve sworn reasons for a continuance to the next term of the court, they were brushed aside as chaff, and my case set for absolute trial on the 2oth of October, and I began to collect evidence for my defense, during the few days left me before trial. The four counts in my indictment charged that I conspired with one Feineman, a rectifier, and Sheehan, a distiller, and that I did not report knowledge of fraud to my superior officers. tu^ CS<^ ^- 24 8 A CHECKERED LIFE. On the Qth of October, 1875, ^ called at the Treasury De- partment in Washington for the purpose of securing an official copy of a report I had previously made in regard to the very parties with whom it was alleged I conspired to defraud the revenue. I saw Commissioner Pratt and procured the paper I wished, took it to Mr. Bristow, the Secretary of the Treasury, who at- tached the following official certificate that I desired to use in evidence at my trial : UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, \ Treasuiy Department, Oct. pth, 1875. / Pursuant to Section 882 of the Revised Statutes, I hereby certify that the annexed are true copies of original papers on file in this Department. ,- * s In Witness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand, and caused -j Seal. Y th e sea j o f t h e Treasury Department to be affixed, on the day and year first above written. [Signed] B. H. BRISTO\Y, Secretary of the Treasury. When Bristow signed the above certificate in my presence, and delivered the document into my hands, he threw himself back in his official chair and opened the following plastic con- versation : "Colonel, I'm sorry that you have got into this trouble ; I have heard of you as a gallant soldier from Kentucky, and it pains me to see any man from -our state,' who fought for the Union, in jeopardy. All I wish is to make a success of these whiskey prosecutions, and if you will assist me I'll see that you have no trouble." I replied that I was just as sorry as he was perhaps more that these troubles had come upon me ; but how I could assist him in making a success of the prosecution was a mystery, as he knew that I had no knowledge of the whiskey frauds in Missouri. He said: "Well, Colonel, that's all right; I have no dis- position to pursue you to prison, as you were a mere subordi- nate ; but I feel that these parties over the way (pointing to A CHECKERED LIFE. 249 the White House) were the responsible heads of the whole whiskey conspiracy, and I know you are intimate with them. I said I knew nothing about it, and so far as the White House people were concerned, I had never in the whole course of our political and personal friendship spoken to them about whiskey frauds. He looked up and smiled with a bland expression, and re- marked : "Well, if you want to go to prison for other people, it is none of my business. ' ' I arose from my seat by his official chair, and replied to the cunning bid he had put in for state's evidence : Mr. Secretary, I told you candidly and truthfully that I knew nothing of frauds upon the revenue ; and I regard your efforts to put me in the light of an informer as an insult, and your desire to bring higher officers into disgrace, a piece of injustice. That speech sent me to prison. I then bowed myself out of his office and have not spoken to him from that day to this. Promptly on the 2oth of October, 1875, 1 was placed on trial at Jefferson City, upon the following four counts of the indict- ment : 1. That one John A. Joyce, late of the Western District of Missouri, and a United States Revenue Agent, had, while acting as said Revenue Agent, knowledge and information that B. A. Feineman and F. A. Hassel- man, rectifiers and wholesale liquor dealers, neglected to make an entry in their books of 243 original packages of distilled spirits which had been received by them from Edward Sheehan and John P. Sheehan, distillers; that said Joyce, who was a Revenue Agent, failed to report in writing said knowledge and information of said violation of the Revenue laws. 2. That he (Joyce) knew of said 1>. A. Feineman & Co. having emptied 243 packages of distilled spirits without first having effaced and obliterated the marks, stamps and brands thereon, and the same he failed to report, as required by law. 3. That Sheehan & Son were engaged in and carried on the business of distillers of distilled spirits, at St. Joseph, with intent to defraud the United States Government of the tax on the spirits distilled by them, and that the said John A. Joyce did then and there fail, as such officer, to report, in writing, said knowledge and information of said violation, which was known to him, to his next superior officer. 250 A 1 CHECKERED LIFE. 4. That said John A. Joyce did, on the last day of April, 1874, at St. Joseph, Mo., then and there conspire and collude with Edward Sheehan & Son to distill and sell distilled spirits without paying the taxes due the United States thereon, and to divide between themselves the gains and profits arising thereirom. Feineman, the rectifier at Kansas City, said in his evi- dence : " I did not tell Joyce whether the whiskey entered on my books was straight or crooked ; he did not ask me ; I gave him to understand that all the whiskey on my books was straight." Dr. Joshua Thorne, a former Assessor of Internal Revenue, and a voluble man, said : " I remember talking with Joyce in May, 1873, m regard to making whiskey, but as I was afraid to talk with him about whiskey, introduced him to Mr. Kings- bury." Mr. E. W. Kingsbury, a United States Storekeeper, said : "I had a conversation with Joyce in the summer of 1872, about raising some money out of the-whiskey business for elec- tion purposes. That was the first and only conversation I had with Joyce, and I suppose he had something to do with my removal. I have not had kindly feelings towards him since that time." Henry Borngesser, the gauger at Sheehan's St. Joseph dis- tillery, said : "Joyce was at our distillery once ; he told me not to use such large tacks in putting on stamps. This was all the conversation we had. I knew distilled spirits were manufac- tured and shipped without payment of tax. I am indicted." Mr. A. W. Wells, Deputy Collector, said : "I knew of an order changing storekeepers and gangers in the district ; saw Mr. Joyce about the time, and told Mr. Wilkinson that there would have to be a change made in the storekeepers ; that Mr. Bittenger would be gauger, and I would be storekeeper." John P. Sheehan, the son and foreman of Sheehan's distil- lery, said: "We began shipping illicit spirits in 1873, an< ^ ceased about the i5th of April, 1875. We stopped shipment before Joyce came to see us. ' ' A CHECKERED LIFE. 251 Ferdinand Rendleman, the storekeeper at Sheehan's distill- ery, said : " Joyce was at our distillery with Mr. Bittenger, just before the seizure. He looked over our books, and took some numbers. Sheehan was excited in the presence of Joyce, when he began his examination of the books. I ran away to Texas when the seizure was made, and was brought back to be used as a witness. I am indicted for fraud. I got fifty cents a bar- rel from Mr. Sheehan tor allowing him to take the crooked whiskey away from the distillery. Borngesser, the gauger, got one dollar a barrel for helping to steal the whiskey. All this time we got our pay from the government." Col. Wm. H. Parker, Collector of Internal Revenue for Colorado, said : "I talked with Joyce in his room in his hotel at Kansas City, regarding the seizure of several rectified pack- ages shipped from the the 6th district of Missouri. There was an informality in the marks and brands, and a discrepancy in the guaging. I told Mr. Joyce there was a discrepancy of two or three per cent, in proof between the gauge of Hamilton, of Denver, and Marsh, of Kansas City, but this might naturally occur. Col. Joyce asked me to furnish him with a copy of dupli- cate numbers, that he might search the rectifiers' and distillers' books. I visited Feineman's establishment with Joyce, staid about an hour, and we left together. Col. Joyce did not invite Supervisor Hedrick, Revenue Agent Brown or myself to examine the books ; neither did he suggest or intimate that it would be as well not to examine them. We. were all officers and could examine the books as well as Joyce. Frank Hamilton, gauger, said : "I saw Joyce and Parker at the Pacific House. Col. Parker had the memorandum serial numbers of the barrels that had been shipped by Feineman. Joyce did not make any excuse for Feineman. Joyce came from St. Louis to Kansas City to meet us. He did not apolo- gize for Feineman & Co. Joyce took us all over to Feme- man's, and left us there to examine what we wished." 25 2 A CHECKERED LIFE. George Walker, clerk of Supervisor Meyer, produced an of- ficial letter of Joyce, showing that a report had been made of what he found in Kansas City. E. R. Chapman, clerk, produced an official copy of a letter of Joyce to the Department. A. M. Crane, Revenue Agent, showed that the serial num- bers are only entered once in the books, whereas there may be duplicate numbers in existence. Sheehan's books and Feine- man's books coincide exactly as to sales and purchases. Pack- ages may be shipped which are not on the books. The foregoing is the evidence of the government taken from the official record of the court proceedings. Now, after the lapse of eight years, when a calm view can be taken of those inquisition days, I simply offer to an honest world, and the friends who know me best, the following reports as a clear re- buttal of the evidence advanced by the prosecution. The reports will give the lie to the counts in the indictment. I honestly reported the figurative theory I found on the recti- fiers' and distillers' books in Missouri, but did not report the marks and brands on the barrels in Colorado, because I did not have an opportunity to examine the material facts. (COPY OF TELEGRAM.) St. Louis, Missouri, April 23, 1875. Hon. J. W. DOUGLASS, Com'r Int. Rev., Washington, D. C. Pursuant with telegram April seventeenth (17), to the Supervisor, "have conferred with Collector Parker, of Colorado, relative to detention of spirits from the District. Has Parker reported seizures ? (Signed) JNO. A. JOYCE, Rev. Agent. (COPY.) UNITED STATES INTERNAL REVENUE. Supervisor's Office, Dist. of Missouri, Kansas and Arkansas, St. Louis, April 26th, 1875. Sir: I have the honor to state that in accordance with instructions, on the l8th inst., I proceeded to Kansas City, Mo., to confer with Collector W. H. Parker in relation to the detention of certain rectified spirits in Colorado that had been shipped from this supervising district. A CHECKERED LIFE. 253 I met Collector Parker, Ganger Hamilton, Revenue Agent Brown and Supervisor Hedrick, and heard the verbal statement of the Collector touch- ing the causes that induced him to detain the spirits in question. Several packages have been detained or seized, belonging to II. W. Gil- lett, of Leavenworth, Kansas; Westheimer Brothers, of St. Joseph; and B. A. Feineman & Co., of Kansas City, Mo.; and two or three lots from liquor men in this city. Collector Parker placed in my hands a memorandum of serial numbers taken from some thirteen barrels out of the hundred and two rectified pack- ages detained at Granada, Col., which were shipped to Chick, Brown & Co. by B. A. Feineman, of Kansas City. I traced the serial numbers in question through the books of Feineman to the distillery of Edward Sheehan & Son, and the rectifying house of S. Adler & Co., of St. Joseph, and followed the dumping notices (Form 122} into the office of Collector C. B. Wilkinson, 6th Dist. Mo., and find them properly reported in accordance with law and regulations. Collector Parker stated to me that the causes which led him to detain the spirits in question were the omission of some portions of the marks and brands on the barrels, and a difference of one or two per cent, below proof- marks, or a difference of one wine gallon to the barrel ; all of which causes may be explained by the different mode of gauging by the respective gaug- ers and the leakage and evaporation that will take place in the course of time and distance of transportation. In my investigation of this matter I cannot find where the Government has been defrauded out of a dollar; and while some of the exact marks and brands may have been omitted by the gangers differing themselves res- pecting the contents of the casks, yet I have been unable to trace any fraud- ulent transactions by the owners of the spirit?. Very respectfully, Hon. J. W. DOUGLASS, (Signed) JOHN A. JOYCE, Com'r Internal Revenue, Revenue Agent. Washington, D. C. After a trial of three days, Judge Krekel charged the jury in the following language and logic : The first three counts of the indictment charge the same offense, the hav- ing knowledge or information of a violation of the revenue law, and failing to report such knowledge or information to his superior officer, as required by law. They differ in this, that the first count charges the violation to have been by Feineman & Co., by not making the entries in their books as re- quired by law; the second count, that Feineman & Co. emptied packages 2 54 A CHECKERED LIFE. without canceling and obliterating stamps, as required by law; and the third count, that Sheehan & Son distilled spirits with intent to defraud the United States of the tax. By the setting out of the specific knowledge or information, it is intended to advise the defendant with what he is charged, and in your passing upon either of the three counts, you should find that the defendant had the knowledge or information of the offenses specifically set out. You should pass upon each of these counts, and find whether the defendant, Joyce, had knowledge or information thereof and failed to report in writing to his superior ofikers. You will find upon each count, guilty or not guilty, as in your opinion the evidence may justify. The fourth count of the indictment charges that defendant Joyce con- spired and colluded with Edward Sheehan to distill or sell spirits to defraud the United States of the tax. By conspiring is here meant an understanding between Joyce and Sheehan that they would aid and assist each other in the distilling and selling of spirits without paying the tax. The existence of such a conspiracy you must find from the evidence. Whether you will find such a conspiracy to have existed unless some act in furtherance thereof was done, is for you to determine. About four o'clock on the afternoon of October 23d, 1875, the jury after an absence of over four hours, brought in a ver- dict of guilty on the four counts in the indictment. It was Saturday, and they wished to get home to their friends and families in the country. Mr. Cox, of the jury, had a sick wife ; Mr. Fullilove had a cramp in his stomach ; Mr. Leith wanted to hold out for innocence to the last ; but in order to secure a verdict, he finally consented to toss up coppers with Mr. John- son heads they win, tails I lose. The toss of the copper set- tled my case, and these " good and true men" brought me in guilty of conspiracy with Edward Sheehan, with whom not a single overt act was proven, but on the contrary, his own son said that they had ceased illicit distilling before I visited their establishment, and that when I examined the books, the fifty cent thief, Rendleman, said, "Sheehan was very much excited at my presence." Is it reasonable that one conspirator should be "excited" at the presence of another? In the days of Blackstone and the common law, if a jury should secure a verdict by chance, in casting lots or tossing up a penny, the whole thing would have been pronounced null and A CHECKERED LIFE. 255 void. But in the days of political ambition and public clamor, with pliant people for jurymen, acknowledged thieves for wit- nesses and a severe man for judge, the Lord himself would have stood no chance for acquittal, but suffered conviction and cru- cifixion as of old. The prosecuting officers now felt sure that this "coon" would come down from his lofty oak and crawl in the dust for immunity from punishment. My lawyer made a motion for a new trial, pending the de- termination of the court. I was given over to the custody of the marshal, but the gov- ernment officers were so rampant that in a few days the judge, who kept one eye on the law and the other on the newspapers, ordered me to jail, although I was under bonds for twenty-five thousand dollars. Everybody who knew me felt that I would not run away to satisfy the prosecution, if a million dollars in gold were offered me as an inducement. I remained in jail until the i3th of November, without the judge giving a single indication of granting me a new trial. Punishment without sentence was being inflicted from day to day, with no surety that months might not march into years, and death from exposure ensue before I began to move through the dark tunnel of regular imprisonment. Letters, telegrams and officers moved about from Washing- ton to St. Louis and Jefferson City, all looking to the spring trials to come off at St. Louis, against McKee, Avery, and par- ticularly General Babcock. The government imagined that I was the club to smash Bab- cock, and they would simply hold me in jail as a prospective witness, and when the time came launch me into St. Louis. The district attorneys at St. Louis and at Jefferson City, and other officers, had long and secret consultations as to how they could best use me in the interest of the prosecution. I was secretly advised by "a little bird" of everything that the cabal did, and just as Dyer had fixed his legal papers to transfer me to the " Future Great," I had my attorney, Major 25 6 A CHECKERED LIFE. A.. M. Lay, go into court and demand an immediate sentence upon the indictment on which I was convicted. A thunder-clap from a clear sky could not have been more surprising than this unusual action of mine. The district at- torney and judges were nonplussed, but could not, in decency or law, decline my invitation for sentence on the withdrawal of the motion for a new trial. The following letter from my lawyers had its proper weight in determining my action in demanding sentence : St. Louis, Nov. nth, 1875. Col. JOHN A. JOYCE, Dear Sir : It is manifest that Judge Krekel will suspend action upon your motion for a new trial, so as to enable him to order your removal for trial to this district. Here the indications are all one way that you are to be brought here if possible. We write understandingly. There can be but one opinion as to the proper course for you to pursue. Your motion for a new trial ought to be withdrawn, and sentence imposed. This action becomes inevitable in view of the settled purpose to overwhelm you. If you withdraw your motion and demand your sentence, then you will be in a proper position to resist all efforts to subject you to unnecessary trials and more persecution. It does seem to us that you have only one course to pursue. If you resolutely withdraw your motion and demand sentence, you will stand better before the country. We advise this course candidly, earnestly, and as we conceive for your own best interest. If you conclude to take this course, we earnestly advise you to make no speech before the Court, but simply to take whatever sen- tence may be imposed resolutely and manfully, as you have met everything thus far. The assurances and indications of clemency from Washington are clear and favorable. You must do nothing to prejudice yourself. But if you do come here notwithstanding the withdrawal of your motion, then the sympathies of the people will be with you as a victim of mere persecu- tion; your prosecution would be unjust. The matter is in your own hands. Very truly, JEFF. CHANDLER. KRUM & MADILL When I found what the officials wanted, I concluded to act the other way. On the 1 3th of November, I was taken to the court-house for sentence. It became noised about Jefferson City that I was going to make a speech in my own defense. The court-house A CHECKERED LIFE. 257 was full of curious listeners, a jury was sitting in the box, the judge came on the bench, and all was quiet and solemn as the grave. When the preliminary speeches of the lawyers were finished, Judge Krekel asked me if I had anything to say before sentence was passed. I arose with a defiant attitude, and delivered the following : "Before this honorable court passes sentence, I beg leave to state that my conviction was secured by the perjured testimony of self-convicted thieves Feineman, the rectifier, Borngesser, the guager, and Rendleman, the storekeeper, all lineal descend- ants of those ancient scoundrels who crucified Christ, came upon the witness stand, and paraded their own infamy by ac- knowledging that they had stolen whiskey from the govern- ment, through a term of years at the rate of from one dollar to fifty cents per barrel. The pencil of Gustave Dore could not do justice to those three wandering Israelites, who seemed ever on the lookout to steal small things when big ones were conven- iently at hand. Feineman and Fagin are identical characters, and should be immortalized in living infamy. I dismiss these pillars of fraud and perjury, consigning them to the devouring fury of a rotten conscience. I was indicted for failure to report in writing certain alleged knowledge and information of certain fraudulent transactions of petrified perjurers. The jury found me guilty on the counts, but as a matter of fact the conclusion was as false as the evi- dence. I agree that it had the appearance to the jury of fail- ure of duty. We know, however, thac things are hot always what they seem. I simply declare, upon my honor as a man and my allegiance as an American citizen, here, in tne presence of this honorable Court, to the whole world, and facing my God, that I am absolutely innocent of the charges trumped up against me by pretended friends and viper enemies. It has not been shown in evidence, or even intimated 'by anybody, that I ever received a single cent in fraud of the rev- 25 8 A CHECKERED LIFE. enue. Then where is the motive that induced me to withhold the information ? I did make a report in writing to the Super- visor and Commissioner Douglass. The report, it is alleged, was not full. Neither was the information in my possession full or complete, as the facts were in Colorado, out of my district, and the theory I reported was in Missouri. The district attorney of the United States, in his concluding speech, introduced my copy-book, showing the transmittal let- ter to the supervisor as something fraudulent. My lawyers or myself had no opportunity to explain the letter in evidence, which could have been done to the utmost satisfaction of every- body concerned. Your Honor, from the beginning of the case to the end, ex- tended consideration and ordinary rulings. For this I thank you in the name of the people and in the name of justice. I stand here to-day strong and bold in conscious innocence. My heart is actuated by that noble impulse that nerved Winkelried when he opened a breach for the liberty of his country ; or by that lofty courage that inspired Sir Walter Raleigh at the block ! Like Raleigh I may have puffed smoke through the window at the execution of some official Essex ; but I never trampled upon the royal robes of the virgin queen ! For myself I have no fear of any punishment on earth, yet in behalf of my past good character, this being the first suspi- ciorTof guilt that ever darkened my life, and in consideration of the support I owe my wife and children, I ask that magna- nimity at this bar of justice that would be reasonably claimed by yourself under like circumstances. A few short years will sepulchre the living of to-day with the dead of yesterday, and the celestial sunlight of to-morrow will bring us all to the bar of Omnipotence, where the judge, jury, lawyer and client will meet upon the level of eternity and part upon the square of final judgment. Then all hearts shall be laid bare, and truth will rise in magnificent triumph. The blood of innocence flows free and unruffled through the chan- nels of this frame, and the artificial terrors that surround the A CHECKERED LIFE. 259 victims of crime, find no lodgment in my heart. When I look back to the field of battle where I fought and bled for my country in its hour of terrible trial, I wonder whether patriot- ism is but a name, and gratitude of nations a mockery and sham to lure the brave to destruction. My simple sin is that of omission, and for it I suffer the deepest humiliation, while all the glorious services and recol- lections of the past are buried in the grave of forget fulness. Is this right ? Is this just ? This epidemical era of reform has arisen like the rush of a mighty flood, and speeds on toward the gulf of punishment. The good and the bad suffer alike. The stream is full of drift- wood and dead timber, while many young oaks and tall syca- mores on the banks are loosed from their firm foundation and dashed into the river of destruction. But the rain falls lightly on the mountains, the sun shines warmly on the plains, and the flood, even now, is settling into its former bed, where the crys- tal waters shall again reflect the green foliage of the oak and sycamore, and the gentle breeze and the birds of spring shall make merry music in the cathedral aisles of generous nature ! The prison walls that hemmed in Galileo, Columbus, Tasso and Napoleon did not measure the minds of the men. It is true their bodies suffered some torture, but the proud spirit that rose in their hearts leaped the bounds of clay, and soared away into the illimitable region of science, poetry and war, making them monarchs of the hour, and masters of eternity ! Humble as I am in the walks of life my soul is inspired by their illustrious example ; and it shall be my future endeavor to show the world that although I may suffer for a time the penalty of perjured testimony, yet like a mountain crag I shall breast the pelting storm, and lift my head clear and bold to the coming sunshine of truth and redemption ! I have done." Judge Krekel immediately pronounced upon me a sentence of six months imprisonment on the first count, six on the sec- ond, and six on the third; and on the fourth count, for cor.- 2 6o A CHECKERED LIFE. spiracy, which he intimated was not proven, imposed the term of two years, making in all a sentence of three years and a half, in addition to a fine of $2,000. And to add insult to injury, the judge who imposed this cumulative, illegal sentence on one indictment, made out the commitment so that the long term, on the fourth and last count, would begin first. But what cared the political conspirators for personal liberty, so they stopped with the hare and ran with the hounds of pub- lic clamor. Montezuma had placed another Aztec on the sac- rificial block to glut the thirst for blood ; and as I was the first immolated, the death-dance -and glee of the conspirators were unbounded. The prosecution of Col. A. C. Dawes and Major John L. Bittenger, of St. Joseph, Missouri, was a cruel commentary on justice. The former was a railroad man, and had no more to do with gauger Bittenger in whiskey matters than an unborn < hild. If.Dawes ever sinned, it was through his generosity, and if Bittenger ever fell into fraud, I never knew it. The sleuth hounds of the law about St. Joseph were not sat- isfied with smirching the good name of officers, but, for no rea- son in the world, drew in the name of Major H. R. Hartwig, an enlightened German, and others. The officers also made some cruel insinuations against Col. G. H. Koch, a prominent banker of St. Joseph, who happened to sign the bonds of cer- tain officers and citizens as a personal accommodation. The cradle, the home, the street and the grave were searched by ravenous officials to secure a conviction at all hazard. Yet, where are the strikers of Bristow to-day ? Dispersed and forgot- ten for their subservient, heartless ingratitude and cowardice. IMPRISONMENT. Just as the sun was sinking behind the western hills and gilding the Missouri River with his golden beams, on the even- ing of November i5th, 1875, I passed the portals of the pris- on and shut out the wolves and jackalls that had pursued me for many months. A feeling of quiet and relief pervaded my heart when this goal of misfortune closed its portals upon me. A CHECKERED LIFE. 2 fa I felt exhausted, as I had often felt after a day of battle and blood, and that bleak November night, with a quiet conscience, I slept soundly upon the floor of a stone cell. It was certain- ly a new experience to a sane man, and a strange situation, to one who knew himself to be innocent, the victim of a political conspiracy more cruel than any whiskey men could establish. But my mind had long been made up to the very worst dose the government could administer, and I was prepared to take a bumper of gall or quaff the hemlock with the stoical inde- pendence of Socrates. The officers of the prison treated me with the greatest kind- ness and consideration. They had heard of me in Missouri for many years as a liberal citizen to those who were under the political harrow ; they knew me as a man of education, and be- lieved me to be the victim of a political persecution. I desired to do something in the prison to relieve the mo- notony of the lingering hours, and requested work. There were more than thirteen hundred prisoners in the institution. The "Old Hall" contained about six hundred prisoners, three tiers of cells rising to the roof and terminating against the rough stone walls that shut out the world. A state guard had charge of this building, whose business it was to release the prisoners each morning for breakfast and work, and in the evening to count them in two by two, and lock them up for the night. Capt. W. H. Bradbury was the executive officer of the prison. He had been connected with it about thirty years, and was a terror to evil-doers ; but to those who per- formed their duty silently and uncomplainingly, he was ever considerate and friendly. He asked me if I wished to take charge of the "Old Hall " as a confidential man for the state, saying it would save fifty dollars a month. I took the keys, and superintended the exit and entrance of prisoners morning and evening for more than a year. When my five turnkeys locked and bolted the cells, I in turn locked them up, took the keys to the round-house, and then went to my own room in the hospital outside the walls. 262 A CHECKERED LIFE. My room was large and comfortable, and was never locked. Two windows looked out on the waters of the Missouri, and two others overlooked the house-tops of Jefferson City, with the dome of the capitol and the hills beyond looming up like sentinels guarding the state. My snug quarters were carpeted, and on a corner table I had a collection of writing material and books to amuse myself with in lonely hours. The measured tread of the guard, as he paced his lonely rounds, sounded dull and solemn in the silent night ; and when the storms of winter and the howling winds of March shrieked about the high walls and lookout towers, a shiver of nameless dread shot across my soul and awoke in my heart messengers of mournful memories. Often have I read the long, long night through, with Bacon, Montaigne, Shakspeare, Horace, Plato, Dickens, Goldsmith, Junius and Irving for my companions ; and when the cool, gray shadows of morning crept over the eastern hills, I would still be pondering upon the beauty of thought and wisdom of these authors, who brought me the sweetest consolation in the gloomy hours of imprisonment. When all was as silent as the grave, and I imagined every- body was at rest but the sentinel, Capt. Bradbury, with his severe face and tall form, would sometimes enter my room to bid me good night. "Ah, writing more poetry, are you?" would be his salutation. I replied, that I was far away from his control, communing with my wife and children, and as the spiritual part of man could not be bound or confined by courts or prisons, he would permit me to muse away into the realms of fancy. The Captain often sat with me by the hour, and seemed ever interested in my conversation. In my presence his stern look melted into kindness, and his iron hand held out the olive branch of generosity and love. Wardens Sebree, Willis and Bradbury were my friends, and never lost an opportunity to make my situation as pleasant as the strict rules would permit. From the time I entered the halls of punishment to the mo- A CHECKERED LIFE. 263 ment of my retirement, there was not a word said nor an act performed that grated upon my sensibilities as a man. Travelers from state and nation visited the prison almost daily; and as I had been an object of national notoriety, the people were curious to see a man who defied judge, jury and government. Many came from motives of genuine sympathy, and even when tourists and strangers rushed to see and talk with me, I never denied them the opportunity. I have never, up to the present moment, realized that I served a single day in prison, and the whole affair seems to me now like the phantasmagoria of a vanished dream, leaving no remembrance behind but the audacity of a soul that the rude blasts of the world could not humiliate or subdue. My oration before the court was copied and commented upon by all the prominent papers in the United States, and while some of them rebuked me for unheard-of boldness, the large majority wondered at my audacity and complimented my elo- quence under the trying ordeal of sentence. From a large number of complimentary editorial comments, I submit the following leader from the Daily Inter- Ocean, of Chicago : WHISKEY AND RHETORIC. That the wind is tempered to the shorn lamb and the burden fitted to the back which is designed to carry it, are again demonstrated by the circum- stances attending the recent sentence of ex-Revenue Agent Joyce at Jefferson City, Mo., for complicity in whiskey frauds. It is evident that Joyce rather enjoyed the proceeding. It gave him a chance for a stunning speech, which he never could have made otherwise, and presented an opportunity to hand down his name beside the names of Sir Walter Raleigh, Galileo, Napoleon and others, which he embraced with an exultation peculiar to that heroic class with whom he thus became identified. For certainly that speech of Joyce's was no ordinary effort. It was not the disconnected, disjointed, in- elegant harangue of your vulgar criminal. It is plain that Joyce has be- come familiar with noble lives and grand examples. Sentimentally, too, he agreed with them, but when it came to practical test, Joyce was wanting. He put his virtue all into theory, and hadn't enough left to practice with. And yet, as we said, he rather seemed to enjoy his sentence, because of the opportunity it gave him to make a very remarkable speech. 264 A CHECKERED LIFE. We do not know that his remarks were impromptu ; it is rather probable, indeed, that they were not; that they were carefully thought over and pre- pared purposely for effect. Still, that does not alter the fact that the speech was a singularly able one in spite of its rather grandiloquent tone. For there are times when grandiloquence is not altogether inappropriate, and however carelessly the public were disposed to regard the proceedings of the court at Jefferson City, to the prisoner it was a time of great solemnity and great trial, when figures, metaphors and comparisons which would not have been allowable otherwise were pardonable. Mr. Joyce's opening denunciation of the witnesses against him reminds us of Daniel O'ConnelPs allusion to Disraeli, whom he described as "a lin- eal descendant and heir-at-law to the impenitent thief who died on the cross." Joyce evidently had this paragraph in his mind when he referrec to "Feineman, the rectifier; Bonngeisser, the gauger, and Rendleman, the storekeeper," as all "lineal descendants of those ancient scoundrels who crucified Christ." Said Mr. Joyce: "The pencil of Gustave Dore' could not do justice to those three wan- dering Israelites, who seemed ever on the lookout to steal small things when large ones were conveniently at hand. Feineman and Fagin are identical characters, and should be immortalized in living infamy. I dismiss the ped- dlers of fraud and perjury, consigning them to the devouring fires of a rot- ten conscience." Mr. Joyce compared himself to Arnold Winkelreid and Sir Walter Ral- eigh in the following very neat sentence, which, when disassociated from the charge against him, that makes such comparisons a trifle ridiculous, is very good indeed : " I stand here to-day strong and bold, conscious of innocence. My heart is actuated by the noble impulse that nerved Winkelreid when he opened a breach for the liberty of his country, or by the lofty courage that inspired Sir Walter Raleigh at the block. Like Raleigh, I may have puffed smoke through the window at the execution of some official Essex, but I never yet trampled upon the royal robes of the Virgin Queen." The remainder of the address, as we said before, is rather remarkable, and shows the prisoner to be not only a man of education and extensive reading, but one possessed of a fine imagination and no mean rhetorical powers. His speech was a solemn and reiterated denial of his guilt, and the expression of an abiding confidence in the final vindication of his good name. If the charges are well founded, Mr. Joyce has one talent superior to his eloquence, and that is his unexampled impudence. Whatever may be the truth about his guilt, however, it is certain that the Missouri state's prison contains a scholar and an orator such as its gloomy walls have seldom, if ever, held before. A CHECKERED LIFE. 265 I received a large number of letters from friends and strang- ers immediately after my incarceration, all of them breathing a spirit of sympathy and encouragement. My lady friends were particularly kind in their expressions of regard and love, saying that no matter what the world thought, they were of the decided belief that I was a persecuted man, and put forth as a vicarious sacrifice for the sins of other people. One of the most consoling letters I received was the follow- ing, from. Col. J. C. Normile, District Attorney of the county of St. Louis a man who knew me intimately in days of sun- shine, and believed in me during the storms of misfortune : St. Louis, Jan'y 1301, 1876. DEAR JOYCE: I received your welcome letter of the ist inst., and would have writ- ten an earlier reply but for the combined result of much work and constitu- tional laziness in the matter of letter-writing. I have nightly resolved to write, and as often suspended my resolution until the following night. The Supreme Court, the Court of Appeals, the Criminal Court and the Grand Jury are all in session since Jan. 3d, and having to distribute myself among them all, you will readily see that I have little time at present for concentration sufficient even to write to an old friend like yourself. The crowd of the Southern Hotel often speak of you with pleasant rec- ollections of the past, and with regret for your present condition. No one can sing " Mrs. Kearney" like you, they say, and it is also asserted that nobody can enliven an evening of innocent revelry like that mad wag Joyce. I hear this said frequently by those who knew you in better days, when even a shadow of suspicion had not tarnished the luster of your integrity. That one so genial, gifted, generous and warm-hearted as you should be found among the Ring, was truly painful to those cherished friends, who were the last to believe it, and the first to defend your fair name whenever assailed. The papers keep you posted on passing events, and they also keep us ac- quainted with your business. I see you are engaged in writing a novel and a drama on whiskey-ring troubles. You are imprudent in keeping your mind hot by dwelling so much on these subjects. To forget them, should be your aim. I would suggest to you to perfect yourself in Latin while in prison. You have a good opportunity to become a fine classical scholar. It will be pleasant reading, and in dwelling on the deeds of antiquity your mind will unbend itself from the terrible strain that has been upon it, and which has broken minds as vigorous as yours. Write as little as possible, 266 A CHECKERED and publish nothing. Think on new subjects, and cultivate your brilliant intellect in the calm seclusion of your prison, and you will win a victory from defeat. There has been some talk of removing all those who were convicted here to some other place of confinement, where they may have to do disagreeable labor. Keeping quiet at present, and until that has blown over, is your best plan. I don't know how soon business may take me to Jefferson City, but when it does, I will be sure to call and see you personally, and read poetry with you for an afternoon. I have your speech on receiving sentence laid away between the leaves of your decoration-day oration, where I will show it to you when you are liberated. You ask if I have forgotten those halcyon days of yore. I have not, and never shall. For no man living had I as warm an attachment as for you in your better days. A friendship, indeed, more disinterested has sel- dom existed between men. I well remember the Joyce of those happy days, and in charity I will draw a veil over those scenes, which I know you will one day wipe out and restore yourself to the confidence of friends that have mourned your trouble. Your sincere friend, J. C. NORMILE. CHAPTER XXVIII. PRISON REFORM. During my sojourn in prison, I studied closely the philosophy of confinement and punishment, looking into the details of each representative case with the eye of a man who wishes to separate the false from the true, the good from the bad. I saw the children of hereditary crime, and the gnarled, crusty crimi- nals of poverty and education come and go like shadows on a dial. It was a school of the ripest knowledge to one of a thoughtful nature, and I made a memorandum of various cases, in order that I might some day give my experience and con- clusions to the world. See John Anderson, a poor, pale boy of sixteen, come through the "round gate" with a swing, launched into the prison -yard like a tired bird that had been shot in the wing in a summer flight. He stole a pair of shoes to keep his feet warm, and ran into a baker's shop for a loaf of bread to appease his hunger. The policemen nabbed him, the jury indicted and convicted him, and the district attorney and judge sent him to prison for a term of two years with hard labor. After being shaved, bathed, and a description of his person taken, he was assigned to a cell with a burglar of unenviable age and notoriety. The contractors in the shoe-shop had him detailed to hammer on heels for two years, until he is finally discharged with a poor suit of clothes, and barely enough money to take him to the nearest city, where he enters the ranks of burglars and midnight robbers, to put in practice what he learned of the old reprobate with whom he celled. There is Billy Rider, a ward politician, who made himself serviceable in the past to Democratic and Republican leaders, 267 268 A CHECKERED LIFE. by packing caucuses with his rough following. He is an im- pulsive, human wreck, dangerous in midnight saloons, and al- ways ready with a knife to "cut the heart" out of any supposed enemy. He is serving a term of two years for an assault upon the life of his fellow-man, and takes his confinement with the nervous discontent of a caged tiger. Had Billy been reared under happier skies he might have been a good citizen, for his worst enemy acknowledged that there was something generous and good beneath his rough, impulsive exterior. Look at Old Jerry Collins coming across the prison yard, bare headed and in his shirt sleeves, winter and summer, offer- ing his ever-present snuff-box to any friend, and exchanging words of kindness with the officers. He murdered his wife in St. Louis with a meat-ax for some imagined infidelity on her part ; was tried and sentenced to be hung ; but, as the governor had doubts as to the sanity of the old, gray wreck, commuted his sentence to imprisonment for life. Jerry was never satis- fied with his commutation, but made periodical applications to have the original sentence of death carried into effect, say- ing that if he knowingly murdered his wife, he deserved death, and if the act was that of an insane man, be should not be in prison, but in the wards of a lunatic asylum. The old fellow had a great deal of common sense. He took a great fancy to me when he found that I wrote poetry and loved flowers. The officers, to satisfy his whims, procured for him flower seeds, and allowed him a little spot of ten by twelve to cultivate his fa- vorite friends. It was a strange sight to see a wife-murderer bending lovingly over budding roses, daisies, violets, morning- glories, and forget-me-nots in the sunny hours of spring, nurs- ing them with a father's care in hot summer days, and covering them up with newspapers when the frosts of fall chilled their life. There comes Jack Reno ahead of the long line with the lock step. He moves to the measured tread of twenty years con- finement for cracking open a county safe, and taking forty thousand dollars in bonds. A CHECKERED LIFE, 269 The robbery was planned with the precision a general plans and executes campaigns. Jack came all the way from Indiana on the information of a "pal," and when the country town was wrapped in slumber after midnight, while his confederate held the string on the outside, to warn him against approaching foot- steps, the bold burglar with his cunning implements cracked the treasury safe, and stole the bonds. Then a race was made for the banks of the Mississippi, but fate and sleep induced the robbers to stop on the wayside too long ; and Jack was cap- tured without the "boodle," tried, convicted and sent to prison to contemplate upon the uncertain to of human success. Jack had some elements of redeeming virtue. He regarded it worse than high treason or murder to betray a friend, and however his moral nature may have been bespotted by a family of natural Indian robbers, he possessed a kind heart for his fellow-prison- ers, and would share the last crust with a cell-mate. It was curious and astonishing to hear him tell of wonderful escapes and daring exploits, boasting of his robbery of persons and banks with the proud air of a man who had performed some noble action, and deemed himself worthy of commendation. Pope must have had Jack Reno in his mind when he said : " Vice is a monster of so frightful mien, As, to be hated, needs but to be seen ; Yet seen too oft, familiar with her face, We first endure, then pity, then embrace !" There is Fred Biebush, one of the most daring counterfeiters in the United States, and a wholesale shover of the "queer." For thirty years he has been meat for detectives, policemen, courts and prison officers, eluding their grasp on many an oc- casion, but serving three or four terms in prison. He is a stalwart, nervous, rickety-hitchity man with, all the secret cun- ning of his class, the economy of his Teutonic race, but the victim of his own crimes and the betrayal of his "pals." Had common honesty inspired his heart, he might have been one of the first citizens in the community, an honor to his family and a prop to the state, for certainly his shrewd intellect is of no ordinary character. 270 A CHECKERED LIFE. The strange infatuation of crime takes hold of the heart and understanding like a horrible nightmare, and when we attempt to shake it off, pain comes with the waking, and we relapse into the arms of the fiend that governs our soul with a rod of iron. This is especially the case with counterfeiters. Once a counterfeiter, always one. See Dutch Charlie coming through the "round gate" for the ninth term of imprisonment, with a step as light and happy as when he departed a few months ago. Thirty years in prison for petty theft has made the old man a natural boarder of the establishment, and the officers say he departs every two or four years with sadness, and returns with a smile upon his familiar face. There is no joy in the outside world for a lone creature from the Fatherland, and when he wanders back through the crooked vista of memory to his mountain cot amid the streams and hills of the Rhine, his heart sinks within him, and he de- liberately commits some minor offence, pleads guilty, and rushes with pleasure to the comforting walls of his prison home. Dutch Charlie could well exclaim with the Prisoner of Chillon : " My very chains and I grew friends, So much a long communion tends To make us what we are ; even I Regained my freedom with a sigh !" Charlie Weston was the loneliest character I ever met. His father and mother died when he was very young. A baby sis- ter and himself were the only ones left of a large family. Kind neighbors took up the orphans, and bound them to an old childless farmer in one of the central counties of Missouri. The children grew apace. One cold November day, the passionate, crusty farmer at- tempted to flog the eighteen-year-old boy with a blacksnake whip. Human nature, in self-defense, leaped into the strug- gle, and with one blow of a chance club the farmer was felled to the earth, and died almost instantly. Charlie was terribly alarmed, went to the house, told what had occurred, and was ar- rested for murder. A CHECKERED LIFE. 2 7I The trial came off in due season, with no one to give a smile or a cheering word to the orphan boy but his sixteen-year-old sister. The jury found him guilty of murder, and condemned him to be hung, but a merciful governor commuted the sen- tence to life imprisonment. A few days after the boy's entrance into gloomy prison walls, he heard that his little sister had died of a broken heart. The last link of earthly love had been thus severed, and his best friend had gone into the shadows of eternity. Like Jean Val Jean, his heart-strings of love and home were snapped asunder, and whether a fugitive among the homes of the opulent or a prison worker at the oar of a galley slave, the future bore no flowers of hope, and the cruel world possessed no charms to soothe his sinking soul. Charlie was nearly six feet tall, handsome and manly, with blue eyes and blonde hair. He was duly assigned a cell, put to work in one of the shops, furnished a copy of the prison rules, and there is no record that he ever violated one. Days and months ripened into years, and still the dead level of prison monotony went on. Spring came with its birds and flowers ; summer shone with its ripened grain ; autumn with its purple fruit and golden foliage, and winter with its chilling blasts and drifting snows came to pivot up the long, long year. Daily and nightly Charlie came and went to his silent cell from constant labor, without a word of encouragement or hope to brace up his mournful moments. He saw other prisoners get letters of love and consolation from absent friends, and re- ceive daily calls to cheer their solemn hours, but for the term of twelve years he never got a letter, or saw a mortal who cared whether he lived or died ! The Bible was his constant companion, and out of its rich promises he hoped for peace and forgiveness. He was dead to the world, and might as well be resting in the gloomy grave. Daily and nightly he prayed for relief. At last the prison officers took notice of his orderly, faithful, honest work and good behavior. Warden Willis, with his 272 A CHECKERED Z //