LETTERS 
 
 FROM 
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND CHILI 
 
A (CACIQUJIE IN MIS BlRESS OF 
 
LETTERS 
 
 FROM 
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND CHILI, 
 
 WITH AN ORIGINAL 
 
 HISTORY OF THE LATTER COUNTRY. 
 
 Illustrates foitfi 3Engrabittg& 
 
 BY THE 
 
 AUTHOR OF LETTERS FROM PARAGUAY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR R. ACKERMANN, 101, STRAND, 
 
 1819. 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 . f 
 
 !F 
 
\\J DS- 
 
 IETA1NED 
 
 EB 4 1993 
 
 GENERAL 
 
 London: Printed by W. CLOWES, Northumberland-court, Strand. 
 
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER 
 
 PLACING THE PLATES. 
 
 To face 
 
 1. A Cacique in his Dress of Ceremony. . . . Frontispiece. 
 
 2. A Lady of Lima in her Wedding Dress page 64 
 
 3. Walking Dress of a Lady of Rank and her servant, 
 
 of Chili 67 
 
 4. Merchants' Ladies of Chili 273 
 
 5. A Tradesman's Wife and Daughter of Chili 275 
 
 6. Home Dress of a Lady of Rank and her servant, 
 
 of Chili , , SJ4 
 
 1 7540 
 
PREFACE 
 
 1HE following is a brief account of the 
 Writer of these Letters. At a moment when 
 the most flattering prospects of happiness lay 
 open to his view, and when a very few months 
 would have put him into possession of all 
 that can render life desirable, he was doomed 
 to suffer the total deprivation of all his 
 hopes ; an affair of honour followed, which 
 terminated fatally to the aggressor, and 
 caused this Gentleman instantly to quit 
 England, and, in the hospitable mansion of 
 a friend at New York, he sought and found 
 an asylum. After some time, he was ad- 
 vised by his friends there, who took a lively 
 interest in his happiness, to make a voyage 
 to Botany Bay as a merchant, in order 
 to draw his attention from domestic sor- 
 rows, and give a new turn to his thoughts. 
 Convinced, at length, of the propriety of 
 
Vlll 
 
 their advice, he took his passage on board 
 the first ship, which his friends freighted to 
 the new colony. 
 
 The ship met with nothing but bad 
 weather and contrary winds for some 
 weeks ; and from a succession of several 
 heavy gales, the vessel sustained such 
 serious injury, that the master was obliged 
 to seek shelter in the port of Monte Video, 
 on the river La Plata, where, as an Ame- 
 rican ship, it received a welcome recep- 
 tion. At this port, the Gentleman was 
 seized with an epidemic fever, which de- 
 prived him of reason ; and, in this state of 
 mental derangement, his friend, the cap- 
 tain of the ship, was very reluctantly 
 compelled to leave him under the care of 
 the governor, and a religious order, who, 
 with the utmost humanity, administered 
 every comfort in their power ; but all their 
 attentions proving ineffectual, he was re- 
 moved, with the utmost care, to Buenos 
 Ayres, and placed in a convent of the 
 Dominican Friars. 
 
 In the bosom of this community, he ex- 
 perienced the most humane and benevolent 
 
IX 
 
 attentions ; and, after some months of un- 
 wearied applications of various remedies, 
 the good Fathers saw him restored to per- 
 fect health and understanding. From this 
 habitation of peace, he first addressed his 
 friends in England : and, from the corre- 
 spondence which passed, in the space of about 
 two or three years, a small number of letters 
 was selected and arranged for publication 
 in 1805, by the express direction of a gen- 
 tleman then in office, who considered them 
 as forming a desideratum on South Ameri- 
 can subjects, and which eventually led to 
 the expedition under General Whitlocke. 
 But at the time of that event taking place, 
 he was at a mission five hundred leagues from 
 Buenos Ayres, in the province of Giuiira, si- 
 tuated between the great rivers Uraguay and 
 Parana : with this nation he continued 
 thirteen months, when a revolt of the tribu- 
 tary Indians took place, and the whole 
 township joined the roving nation of the 
 Cinguanes, under whose protection they 
 placed themselves, taking the Gentleman 
 and two of the religious belonging to the 
 presidency of St. Ignatius with them into 
 the interior, as far as the banks of the great 
 
river Mamore, which empties itself into the 
 river of Amazons. This revolt happened in 
 1806, and, from that period to the latter end 
 of 1810, nothing more was heard of his 
 fate. It was the general received opinion 
 that he was dead, and, under that impres- 
 sion, his friends had worn mourning for 
 him. However it pleased God to restore 
 him to his friends by the protecting kind- 
 ness of a friendly cacique ; but at the time 
 he reached Buenos Ayres, he was suf- 
 fering under a complication of disorders 
 arising from the fatigues and deprivations 
 he had suffered for so long a period. In 
 his former abode among the good commu- 
 nity of St. Dominic, he received the most 
 unbounded acts of hospitality and kindness, 
 although the community had been greatly 
 reduced during his absence, and only two 
 of his former friends were now alive. After 
 some stay at Buenos Ayres, it was thought 
 advisable, for the restoration of his health 
 that he should pass over to Chili, as to a 
 more congenial climate. During his stay in 
 that beautiful garden of the southern world 
 the following sheets were written. 
 
 How far his prophetic opinions have been 
 
XI 
 
 fulfilled by the events of Europe, since he 
 wrote them what reliance may be had on 
 his notions of political and commercial spe- 
 culation, as it may affect the future interests 
 and advantage of his own country, to which, 
 though so distantly removed, he appears so 
 warmly attached, must be left to the in- 
 formation and considerate judgment of his 
 readers. 
 
HISTORY OF CHILI, 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Buenos Ay res. 
 
 MY FRIEND, 
 
 I AM decidedly become a missionary enthusiast: 
 the papers of my ever-to-be-lamented Father 
 Hernandez, have opened my eyes to the clearest 
 sense of revealed religion; and of what import- 
 ance it is that every one, whether Jew or Gen- 
 tile, Turk, or Christian, of whatever denomina- 
 tion, should be early initiated in the reading and 
 true comprehension of the Bible ; which not only 
 points out the purest precepts of human duty, 
 but the most concise, correct and immutable digest 
 of laws and policy, that ever was framed to direct 
 and govern the different states of man. The Jesuits 
 were, without doubt, the most enlightened and 
 best instructed of all the various fraternities em- 
 bodied by the see 'of Rome. As soon as they 
 
were well grounded in legislative knowledge, 
 they entered on theological, mathematical and 
 philosophical pursuits, to which was often added 
 the study of architecture, painting and music ; in 
 all which different laborious studies, the company 
 of Jesus have evinced in this widely-extended 
 continent, as well as in Europe, their profound 
 and universal knowledge. To speak figuratively, 
 they have, like Orpheus of old, found the means 
 to civilize even the brute creation. That is to say, 
 man in his state of nature ; for such were the in- 
 habitants of those immense tracts of uncultivated 
 land, when the missionaries first appeared among 
 them. At that time they knew not, literally speak- 
 ing, good or evil, but as it related to the im- 
 mediate gratification of their intemperate passions ; 
 such as gluttony, drunkenness, and sensuality, 
 which led them to the commission of every con- 
 comitant sin. Religion they had none, unless the 
 worship of a diabolical spirit might be termed 
 iiirch, whom their Maponas, a kind of sorcerers, 
 taught them tb fear, and which at this hour is 
 held in reverence by all the unconverted Indians. 
 These Maponas have a great influence over them; 
 more especially in time of war, when they are 
 consulted as to the most proper time to attack 
 their enemies, either at home or at a distance; and 
 the opinion these sorcerers pronounce is implicitly 
 followed. Hence the great and insuperable diffi- 
 
culties the first missionaries had to encounter; 
 hence, at the instigation of those ministers, so many 
 zealous men became martyrs ; but this did not deter 
 others from seeking the same glorious crown; for 
 no sooner did news arrive at their colleges, that 
 any of their brethren had fallen sacrifices in 
 propagating the Gospel, than it became a contest 
 as it were, who should be appointed to succeed 
 them. Nothing could restrain or damp their 
 ardour, and at length, it pleased the almighty 
 God to crown their labours with success, and to 
 plant in those vast wilds the greatest religious 
 democracy in the known world. 
 
 Since those highly qualified men adopted me- 
 thods to civilize, and bring into the bonds of so- 
 ciety so many millions of human beings, by the 
 mildest, most gentle, and most conciliatory means, 
 they only, in my opinion, ought to be considered 
 as the sole legal conquerors of these vast regions. 
 It is not the Spaniard, whose steps were marked 
 with blood, and whose avarice, ambition and 
 cruelty, would arrogate to himself the vain glory 
 of conquering a country whose defenceless inha- 
 bitants received and welcomed them to their 
 shores, and with the greatest hospitality supplied 
 their every want, regarding them as the children 
 of llie great luminary, whose beneficent rays 
 warmed and animated all nature. Then was the 
 time to have made the people (what they pretended 
 
 B2 
 
to be the ostensible motive of their coming to them,) 
 the children of Christ, and of subjecting to their 
 King these rich and valuable kingdoms. Though 
 lost in error, and bewildered in darkness, these poor 
 benighted beings would have soon become the best 
 Christians, the best subjects, and the most ready 
 to receive instructions of any people on the face 
 of the earth. 
 
 But the haughty Spaniard soon threw off the 
 mask, thought no more of the professions of 
 Christianity, or any semblance of it, but speedily 
 made the poor Indians acquainted with their real 
 views ; that cupidity was their god, and gold their 
 idol; to which every law, divine and human, was 
 to be sacrificed, and to which end all the natives 
 were to become victims. Gold was to be obtained 
 at any price, no matter how many innocent lives 
 were to be offered up to the attainment of it: that 
 was no consideration to those diabolical Christians, 
 whose thirst for wealth was never to be satiated; 
 and whose hearts soon became callous to all the 
 feelings of religion arid humanity. 
 
 Nothing was thought of but enslaving the 
 Indians, and driving them by thousands into the 
 mines in search of gold; and the more those 
 defenceless people brought them, the more was 
 their avarice awakened, and the greater their in- 
 citement to tyrannize over them. The accounts 
 that I have found among my dear departed friend's 
 
papers, of the cruelties exercised over some ca- 
 ciques, in the province of Cuyo, to compel them 
 to give an account of some supposed hidden trea- 
 sure, would stagger all belief; and, were they 
 not written by the hand of that righteous and 
 good man, I should think it impossible for such 
 beings to exist, or, at least, to be permitted by 
 the Almighty to commit such infernal crimes, and 
 live to return to Old Spain, glorying in their 
 riches thus acquired, and receiving from their 
 sovereign all the titles and honours that religious 
 bigotry and vain-glory have to bestow. 
 
 O my friend, I am sick, heart-sick, when I think 
 upon it ; surely, in another world, there must be 
 a place set apart for the reception of the souls of 
 these more than fiends, where they will receive a 
 punishment adequate to their crimes. The circum- 
 stance, as related by my revered friend, occurred 
 but two and thirty years ago. Shame on the Spanish 
 monarchy; is it not high time (to speak in the 
 language of Scripture) " that the kingdom should 
 be taken from them and given to another .^" Such 
 atrocities must cry aloud to Heaven for vengeance; 
 and, sure I am, it will not be long before the most 
 righteous vengeance will overtake them. I often- 
 times thought, before Heft Europe the last time, 
 that Spain had long since attained her zenith, and 
 was rapidly approaching to ruin and desolation. 
 The French revolution, with all its sanguinary 
 
6 
 
 horrors, has served to confirm my thoughts; and 
 sure I am, that before the half of this century is 
 expired, Old Spain will become a colony to 
 this new world, or to some of the northern Eu- 
 ropean powers, perhaps Russia. France will be 
 parcelled out in the same manner. The Almighty 
 will not always be trifled with, nor can the cruel- 
 ties exercised on the wretched Protestants, by the 
 sanguinary Alva, or the dreadful massacres of St. 
 Bartholomew, be passed by, without a final retri- 
 butive justice. I would fain pursue the inquiry, 
 and enter more deeply into the present transac- 
 tions of Europe ; but I am cut off from all hope 
 of receiving any information from thence, and, 
 of course, can only indulge myself in theories 
 and imaginary future prospects. But I cannot 
 often help exclaiming to myself, Why sleeps the 
 British lion why do not my countrymen become 
 the advocates of suffering millions, and the 
 scourge of murder, rapine and plunder? With 
 what transport should I receive the news, that a 
 strong fleet and army of Britons was landed on 
 these shores, to deliver the miserable from their 
 chains, and the bitter yoke of slavery and oppres- 
 sion ; to open the gates of liberty to millions. 
 
 I entertain a strong conviction that the Catholic 
 faith will not be, many years longer, the established 
 faith, either in the old or the new world; for, by 
 the time that peace is once more restored to suffer- 
 
ing Europe, and the destroying angel who is gone 
 forth has finished his mission from the Most High, 
 the minds of men will be enlightened, they will 
 be able to reason on causes and effects ; the pure 
 light of reason will dawn upon their minds; and, 
 by the inevitable intercourse of different nations 
 with each other, during the conflicts of contend- 
 ing power, their ideas must be enlarged, and a 
 liberality of sentiment will follow; the more wide 
 and extended the warfare has been, the more li- 
 beral and kind will tlieir sentiments of religion 
 be; bigotry will be done away, and the plain 
 and simple precepts of the Gospel become 
 their only guide and director, that is to say, 
 among those who possess any kind of religion at 
 all ; for there are certainly great numbers even on 
 the European continent, who have not God before 
 their eyes, I might truly say with the Scriptures, 
 there is more hope of an infidel than of any of the 
 Spaniards at present in this hemisphere. England 
 appears to me as the nation on the face of 
 the earth, where Christianity is practised with the 
 greatest purity. 
 
 Yet it grieved me much, when I was last at 
 home, to witness among the higher classes ageneral 
 relaxation of principle, and an apparent indiffer- 
 ence, at least, as to the genuine spirit of religion. 
 But. still I should hope that the innate goodness of 
 every Briton's heart, would still preserve him 
 
8 
 
 from French sophists and impious declaimers: for 
 no nation can long stand, however powerful it may 
 be, after impiety and irreligion are suffered to 
 prevail. So reasoned my ever honoured friend ; 
 although a Catholic by profession, he was a Chris- 
 tian in word and in deed, literally such as the 
 primitive Apostles were; can I then do otherwise, 
 knowing him as I did, than endeavour to follow his 
 bright example, and look with abhorrence on the 
 vices and conduct of the Spaniards; and earnestly 
 pray that the Indians may find in Great Britain 
 an emancipator from all their slavery : in which 
 prayer I trust, my dear friend, you will most 
 heartily join. Adieu ! 
 
LETTER II. 
 
 Convent of St. Dominic, 1804. 
 Buenos Ayres. 
 
 THE winter being too far advanced for me to 
 hope to hear any thing from Father Pablo for 
 some months to come, I am, as I told you I should 
 be, wholly taken up in ,the perusal of ray good 
 friend's papers. Among them I have this morning 
 found a minute and truly interesting account of 
 the foundation of the Missions in Paraguay. 
 The register was commenced by the first superior 
 of this convent, and regularly continued by each 
 of his successors; and every Father, who has been 
 engaged in the Mission, has it in command from 
 Rome, to have an exact copy of it, and to make 
 an entry of all the particulars in which he him- 
 self has been engaged. Tis a voluminous work 
 written in Latin, divided into as many sections as 
 there are records, each of which is signed by the 
 Father as a true and faithful relation of every cir- 
 cumstance therein set forth. After each account 
 follows an approving declaration, first signed by 
 the then Bishop, the superior of the convent, and 
 four Brothers. 
 
10 
 
 I shall endeavour, to the best of my abilities, to 
 give you as concise an account of the whole as I pos- 
 sibly can ; and I think you will not only feel an in- 
 terest in the fate of the Jesuits, but lament with me 
 that they ever were expelled from hence. This I 
 think must be the opinion of every one that con- 
 siders all mankind as his Brethren; and that those 
 who dedicate their lives to the service of the 
 Christian religion, and the propagation of its 
 doctrines, must be considered with grateful re- 
 gard, and, under certain circumstances, with 
 unqualified wonder and admiration. They expose 
 themselves to the most imminent dangers, despis- 
 ing hunger, cold, thirst, and wants of every kind; 
 bearing, with invincible patience, for months to- 
 gether, the scorching sun by day, and the cold and 
 piercing dews of night, amid wild and trackless 
 countries, where scarcely human foot had ever trod : 
 not to mention the continual apprehensions of 
 being devoured by wild beasts, or still more savage 
 man; for to be cruelly sacrificed, roasted and eaten 
 by the ferocious Indian, has been uniformly the 
 fate of the FIRST missionaries in the wilds of 
 Paraguay. 
 
 If I recollect right, Cicero, in one of his most 
 animated orations, speaks in the highest terms of 
 panegyric of the wisdom, valour, and prudence of 
 the first man, whose genius found out the means 
 to collect and unite in the bonds of society hordes 
 
11 
 
 of men, whose habitations were in woods, in caves 
 of the rocks or dens of the earth, and taught them 
 to know and feel the unspeakable blessings of 
 social life. 
 
 What praise is not then due to those who have 
 not only brought millions to a sense of their 
 wretchedness, in regard to bodily comforts ; but 
 taught them, that their immortal nature would be 
 no less benefited by the exchange. 
 
 I am called upon by Father Jerome to attend 
 the Bishop; and by the humane animation of 
 his countenance, I am led to suppose seme news 
 is arrived. Adieu ! 
 
LETTER III. 
 
 MY FRIEND, 
 
 CAN you bring to your recollection that dis- 
 agreeable affair I had with the Duke de B , 
 
 during the carnival at Rome ; wherein his Emi- 
 nence, Cardinal de S , was involved. Now if ever 
 
 I saw the Duke in my life, I have seen him this 
 day at the Bishop's. As I was quitting the apart- 
 ment in which I had been engaged with the 
 prelate for near two hours, the door, on the oppo- 
 site side of the room, was opened by the Major 
 Domo, who conducted a gentlemen, dressed in the 
 Spanish habit, with three different orders append- 
 ing to it. As I advanced, or rather passed him, he 
 started, which made me regard him with more 
 attention ; his eye appeared to glance on my 
 dress, when he slightly bowed and hastily ad- 
 dressed the Major Domo. I did not return his 
 compliment, nor did my looks announce a recog- 
 nition. I make not the least doubt but that he 
 knew me, notwithstanding my ecclesiastical habit. 
 You may be assured, that my being at the palace, 
 and in apparent confidence with the Bishop, did 
 
13 
 
 not impart to him the most pleasing sensations : 
 however, let his motives for being here be what 
 they may, he may rest contented I shall not dis- 
 turb him, unless I am called upon by the Bishop 
 to say, whether I know him or not ; in that case I 
 shall not hesitate a moment, to declare all that I 
 have experienced of his real character. I can 
 nearly guess his errand ; and I trust the governor 
 and the prelate will be cautious how they trust 
 him. 
 
 I have not been much in company since my 
 return, but to-night I shall be at Don Manuel's, 
 when I hope to gain some intelligence. The 
 French are most certainly spreading, with indefa- 
 tigable industry, their diabolical creed on this con- 
 tinent. I have never been with any of the families 
 whose intimacy I enjoy, but something has oc- 
 curred in conversation to confirm my opinion; 
 and, notwithstanding all the care with which the 
 good Bishop conversed, some words would escape 
 him, by which I could gather that more was meant 
 than met my ear. This convinces me more and 
 more, of the absolute necessity of our nation 
 taking a decided part, to prevent the French from 
 ever gaining a firm footing here. Should that be 
 the case, farewell to the liberty of Europe, and 
 in fact to the whole world; for nothing will set 
 bounds to their ambitious projects. Could Eng- 
 land be brought to espouse the cause of the poor 
 
14 
 
 Indians, all might then be well in a very short time. 
 The Indians of the numerous presidencies amount^ 
 it is supposed, to some millions, who would 
 not only make good subjects but^ brave soldiers, 
 which the Spaniards have found to their cost; for 
 to this moment they are obliged, even in their 
 garrison towns, to be continually on their guard 
 against the attacks of the roving tribes, that have 
 sworn eternal enmity to the Spaniards: nor have 
 even the mild and gentle influence of the Jesuits 
 been able to induce them to adopt in any shape 
 the comforts of civilization. Liberty pure and unre- 
 strained is the god of their idolatry ; to that idol 
 they, one and all, of whatever nation, tribe or 
 language, offer up their adoration, and to pre- 
 serve which they will sacrifice life, and every tie 
 that is dear to them on earth. They only want 
 good officers to command them, whose ideas of li- 
 berty are in some measure conformable to their 
 own ; when no nation on the face of the earth 
 would be able to withstand them ; that is to say, 
 those who may be brought to renounce their 
 rambling life, to love the comforts of society; 
 the blessing of religion ; to be content with the 
 country they possess ; and to have only a defen- 
 sive warfare. This is not idle speculation; it might 
 with the greatest ease, be brought about in the 
 course of twenty years at most, provided the plan 
 of missionaries should be decidedly adopted at the 
 
15 
 
 firsthand uniformly acted upon ; but I do not think 
 that even this would succeed with Spanish leaders: 
 the English, and they only, would be the people 
 to effect this great and important change. The 
 Indians would have no fears of their being led into 
 slavery, or deprived in any shape, of that liberty 
 they so dearly value. I will for a moment sup- 
 pose, that our government had gravely considered 
 the present situation of so many suffering mil- 
 lions ; and had, in its wisdom, selected a certain 
 number of able officers, humane, just and brave, 
 devoid of avarice, scrupulously tenacious of their 
 own and their country's honour, arid determined to 
 aid those oppressed people by every means in 
 the power intrusted to them. Such a cohort of 
 qualified commanders, bearing His Majesty's com- 
 mission, properly equipped, and sent out to act in 
 the name of their sovereign, could not fail to 
 effect the most beneficial revolution that ever 
 was brought about by the wise councils and ju- 
 dicious conduct of man. Secrecy to plan, promp- 
 titude to execute, energy and patience to effect what- 
 ever may be the desired object, has ever been, 
 and still is, the grand outline by which the true 
 Indian character is portrayed. Would not then 
 a true British Officer glory in being at the head of 
 an army, composed entirely of converted Indians, 
 who would look up to their leader, as the vice- 
 gerent of God, and with one heart and one soul 
 
16 
 
 strive who should be the foremost to execute his 
 commands? By my friend's papers, I should sup- 
 pose, there could not be less than a hundred and 
 fifty or sixty thousand converted Indians in the 
 province of Uraguay alone, attached and enrolled 
 at the different presidencies of which Rioja Minor 
 was one,but widely dispersed over an immense tract 
 of country. From this account it may be inferred, 
 what a vast army might be collected in a short 
 time, to be united in one general cause, without 
 any very great or unnecessary expense ; for by 
 the wise regulation of the Jesuit Fathers, every 
 male Indian, from fifteen to fifty, in every pre- 
 sidency, was enrolled as regular militia ; and, in 
 order to make them well acquainted with military 
 duty, the oldest and most experienced soldiers 
 were appointed to instruct them in every minutia 
 of European service, in order that they might be 
 ready, whenever called upon either by the King of 
 Spain's governor of the province, or to defend 
 themselves against the sudden and frequent attacks 
 of the roving Indians, to which the early establish- 
 ment of every community has been constantly 
 exposed. They will never cease attempting to de- 
 stroy every infant settlement, till they find by 
 experience the community is become too formida- 
 ble for them ; they then relinquish their hopes 
 and set off in quest of others, for they never con- 
 tinue long in one place. Now we will suppose, 
 
17 
 
 for argument's sake, that such a company of British 
 Officers, could effect, by means of the trading 
 Indians, a settlement on the banks of the Uraguay ; 
 or we will say, in the present posture of affairs 
 in that province, at Rioja Minor, a few months 
 would be sufficient to arrange every thing for a 
 grand revolt; and taking every thing into consi- 
 deration, what possible resistance, with any pros- 
 pect of success, could even a force often thousand 
 Spaniards make against an army, composed of 
 an hundred thousand Indians, led on by Britons, 
 dressed in the costume of the tribe which they 
 immediately command, and determined on con- 
 quest or death. 
 
 But you may say, I do not take into the ac- 
 count the difficulty attending the march of such 
 an army, and the means of subsisting it during 
 a route of at least six hundred leagues; in which 
 they would have to make their way through al- 
 most impenetrable woods, over many rapid and 
 dangerous rivers, and the trackless plains of Las 
 Pampas to be passed, before they could effect 
 any considerable enterprise : all this, I grant you, 
 would, in the opinion of an European, appear as 
 insurmountable obstacles. An Indian is of a 
 different character ; he can never be brought to 
 admit, that any possible difficulty can arise in the 
 prosecution of any enterprise in which he is 
 engaged. Apparent difficulties that would startle 
 
18 
 
 and confound an European, would be considered 
 by him as mere trifles. Those obstacles which 
 might be considered as sufficient to terrify the 
 bravest European soldier, and deter him from 
 any attempt to overcome, he is taught from 
 his infancy to surmount. The nature of a 
 rambling mode of life, the eternal warfare the 
 Indians are engaged in with each other, and 
 the alternate ease and difficulty with which they 
 procure every thing necessary to support and sus- 
 tain life, render them in a great degree superior to 
 every sense of danger, more especially when they 
 apprehend their liberty is menaced. The Indians in 
 community, and enrolled as military, in conformity 
 to the first agreements entered into with the king 
 of Spain, and the Procurator General of the mis- 
 sions, are obliged, whenever called upon by the 
 governor of the province in which they are esta- 
 blished, to send a certain number of men out of 
 every hundred, properly armed, accoutred and pro- 
 visioned, to aid the King's forces ; and for which 
 service, the poor Indian receives no other recom- 
 pense, than the honour of serving his Majesty, and 
 the non payment of his yearly tribute, of one or 
 two piastres according as he is rated. He is obliged, 
 during the whole of his service, to provide him- 
 self meat, drink, washing and lodging; it matters 
 not how he procures it, that is a consideration 
 too trivial for his Majesty, or his representative to 
 
19 
 
 trouble themselves about ; 'tis sufficient for them, 
 to have the Indian conceive it the highest honour 
 to be called upon to expose himself to the most 
 imminent dangers, and to be put on the forlorn 
 hope upon every occasion. Does not this mode 
 of procuring soldiers, for the service of His Most 
 Catholic Majesty, argue a refinement in economy 
 and a most Christian display of charity and bene- 
 volence ? 
 
 Now, as what I have above told you is actually 
 the case in all the different presidencies, do you not 
 see with what facility and readiness an army can 
 be moved from one province to another, more 
 especially when called upon to act for themselves, 
 under the directions of leaders they can look up 
 to with respect and confidence, and whom they 
 regard as their deliverers, and the avengers of 
 their kind and beneficent pastors, of whom their 
 perfidious task-masters have deprived them ; and 
 whose memory, I am well assured will be for ever 
 dear to them. No people under the face of 
 heaven, can entertain a higher sense of gratitude 
 than the poor Indian, or possess a more docile or 
 gentle spirit. When once taught the relative duties 
 of life and the practice of moral virtue, he 
 will not only feel that they give peace and com- 
 fort here, but will ensure to him a happy im- 
 mortality. In this opinion, I am sure you will 
 accord with me. Adieu. 
 
 c2 
 
20 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 S/. Jago 9 January 22, 1811. 
 
 IT was the 24th of October before we left 
 Buenos Ayres, till which time the passage of the 
 Cordilleras is deemed impracticable. The jour- 
 ney from Buenos Ayres to St. Jago is altogether 
 by land, and is performed in very large and high 
 wheeled carts or waggons, drawn by oxen as far as 
 Mendoca, the foot of the Cordillera, a mode of 
 conveyance by no means disagreeable. The top 
 is covered with hoops, on which are neatly spread 
 cow hides, so closely connected, that not the most 
 violent rain can penetrate; they have a door on 
 each side, as also windows to give a free passage 
 to the air ; on the bottom are spread mattresses 
 with pillows and coverlids, on which you may 
 sleep with the greatest tranquillity. It is the 
 custom to make the journey mostly by night, in 
 order to avoid the scorching rays of the sun, 
 which, on the plains of the Pampas, is in summer 
 most intolerable : but the heat this year is 
 thought to be by many degrees more intense than 
 has been known for some years, and has caused a 
 
21 
 
 more early season. We were two and twenty 
 days in travelling from Buenos Ayres to the city 
 of Mendoca, situated at the foot of the Cordilleras. 
 We set off every afternoon about two, and some- 
 times three, hours before sun-set ; and did not 
 halt till about an hour after sun-rising. The 
 general halting place is near some water, if, hap- 
 pily you chance to meet with any ponds or large 
 puddles made by a sudden shower of rain, or 
 the overflow of some river or brook, by the melt- 
 ing of the snow on the mountains, which is the 
 only water you can expect to find in the space of 
 three or four days' journey, and not unfrequently 
 a week : for although there are several brooks and 
 small rivers, yet they are so far distant from each 
 other that you are obliged to carry water in carts 
 made on purpose, not only for your own use but 
 that of the cattle. Provision for the journey 
 must also be provided ; that is to say, bread 
 made on purpose, composed of a mixture of maize 
 and wheat, also wine and what fruit can possi- 
 bly be taken; also wood to make }our fire. For 
 my own part, I felt very comfortable with my tea 
 or coffee morning and evening, which at first none 
 took but myself; but, in a few days, Don John 
 and the Father Provincial became as much pleased 
 with it as myself. We therefore most cordially 
 took these meals together ; and I am well per- 
 suaded that this refreshment alone was most effica- 
 
22 
 
 cious in keeping the blood cool and temperate : 
 and I would strongly recommend to every one 
 crossing these plains to adopt the same simple 
 beverage. The extreme heat causes most violent 
 perspirations, which, in a few hours, exhaust the 
 fluids, and occasions extreme thirst, which the 
 water we have is not calculated to allay; for the 
 water taken with us from Buenos Ayres soon be- 
 comes unfit for use, notwithstanding all the care 
 that can possibly be taken of it by keeping it co- 
 vered with hides spread on reeds : indeed we 
 were obliged, some days or rather nights, to pro- 
 long our journey for two or three hours, and 
 sometimes more, in order to reach the banks of a 
 river, by which we might halt for the convenience 
 of filling the water-vessels, and to let the poor 
 cattle have their fill, which were sometimes nearly 
 stifled with heat and thirst. 'Tis surprising to 
 see with what sagacity they will scent the water 
 at a considerable distance, which is perceived by 
 their throwing up their heads, snuffing the air 
 and quickening their pace, so as to make it dif- 
 ficult for the negroes or Indians to keep up with 
 them, in order to prevent their rushing into the 
 water before they are unyoked ; a situation in 
 which the cart I was in, sound asleep, had like 
 to have been involved on the morning of the tenth 
 day of our journey ; but it happily was prevented 
 by the two negroes, belonging to Don John, who 
 
23 
 
 had charge of two led horses that had set off to- 
 gether with some mules and Spanish oxen the 
 moment they snuffed the water, when nothing 
 could stop them. Happily for our company, this 
 happened to be a river and tolerable good water, 
 into which, but for the negroes' activity, my cart 
 with Don John, the Father Provincial, and my- 
 self would have inevitably been plunged ; for never 
 were pooranimalsmore exhausted, not having had 
 any water for above thirty hours. Heaven only 
 knows what would have been our fate altogether, 
 had we not been directed to this most seasonable 
 supply ; and what added to the blessing was the 
 refreshing air we inhaled from the aquatic shrubs 
 and plants which bordered the stream. Here then 
 we halted, and as soon as the awning was spread 
 over the carts we set about our breakfast with an 
 infinite deal of pleasure, which we took as near to 
 the river as it was possible. We do not remain in 
 the carts at the halting places, which would 
 be to risk suffocation, but take our refreshment 
 under the shade of a large covering made of 
 manico leaves, laid over the top of each cart, and 
 extended as far as possible on each side, by poles 
 made of reed or a species of bamboo, which are 
 strong but very light. This spot was by much 
 the most agreeable of any that we fell in with for 
 the space of seven hundred miles ; and, in all that 
 course, there is scarcely a tree or shrub to be met 
 
24 
 
 with : it is one vast level plain, where nothing 
 is to be seen, but here and there a flork or 
 rather herd of wild guanacos, whose flesh is 
 thought to be superior to venison. There are also 
 beautiful large birds, and partridges in vast num- 
 bers, as also hares and wild cattle and horses, who 
 reign supreme lords of these immeasurable wilds ; 
 where there is nothing to impede the sight but 
 one vast boundless horizon. The Spaniards might 
 well term it the Escambradas, for the sun, at its 
 rising, appears as if emerging from the eanh and 
 without rays till it is someway above the horizon. 
 It is the same at its setting, for its beams disappear 
 before the body of the sun is covered. After 
 leaving the river, we journeyed on without any 
 impediment for five days, when our water again 
 began to fail ; as the excessive heat of the sun had 
 dried up all the pools and little rivulets where 
 it was- usual to meet with water ; we were, there- 
 fore, obliged to make forced marches, in order to 
 reach a small river we should have to cross ; but 
 the oxen became soon too languid to proceed, and 
 by that means we were obliged to halt in a spot 
 where even the grass seemed to have been burnt 
 to the very roots and nothing was presented to 
 the eye but barrenness and desolation. We had 
 yet a long journey to make before we could hope 
 for any relief. We had but one small jar of water 
 left, and our thirst seemed to increase every mo- 
 
25 
 
 ment, and we did not doubt but the cattle felt a 
 thirst equal to our own. My sensations in that 
 hour, were such as I never felt before. I am now 
 persuaded that water might easily have been ob- 
 tained, had we thought of digging a few feet only 
 in the plain near to some withered aquatic plants 
 that I saw, in great quantities, about ten feet from 
 us, and which I afterward recollected grew in 
 the convent garden and several places about 
 Buenos Ayres. This naturally pointed out a 
 latent spring, but at this moment, my intellects 
 must assuredly have been most strangely affected, 
 nay absolutely stupefied, for I could think of 
 nothing. However, as soon as my recollection 
 returned, which was not till it could be of no ser- 
 vice, I strongly recommended to the officer or 
 chief conductor of the waggons, on his return, to 
 take from Mendoa, a pickaxe and shovel, and 
 not to fail halting on the spot and to dig to the 
 depth of about three or four feet, when there 
 might be every reasonable expectation of finding 
 a spring. I would recommend to every one pass- 
 ing from Cuyo to Buenos Ayres, or from the 
 latter to Cuyo, never to leave it without taking in 
 the water-cart a pickaxe and shovel, as verv little 
 labour would be required to obtain water in the 
 like extremity in numberless places along the 
 Pampas, which any one, possessing but a very 
 trifling knowledge of aquatic plants, would very 
 
26 
 
 readily discover. We had been in this unplea- 
 sant situation for near four hours ; the negroes 
 were sent in different directions to see how far 
 the scorched grass extended, and were at a consi- 
 derable distance, when the Father Provincial 
 cried out, " Look at the oxen, they smell water: 3 ' 
 we all eagerly turned to the poor panting animals, 
 and saw them stretch out their necks and raise 
 their heads towards the west, and snuff the air 
 in a manner as if they would be certain of ob- 
 taining drink could they but raise themselves in 
 the air. At that moment not a cloud or a single 
 breath of air was to be seen or felt : but in a few 
 minutes the cattle began to move about as if mad, 
 or possessed by some invisible spirit, snuffing the 
 air with most violent eagerness and gathering 
 closer and closer to each other ; and before we 
 could form any rational conjecture as to what 
 could occasion their simultaneous motion, the 
 most tremendous storm came on of thunder, light- 
 ning, and rain, I ever witnessed in my life. The 
 rain fell in perpendicular streams as if all the 
 fountains of heaven were suddenly broke loose ; 
 so that, in the space of a very few minutes, 
 torrents of water rolled around us, and the 
 cattle easily drank their fill at the spot on 
 which they stood. The thunder did not in the 
 least affect them : wholly regardless of the warring 
 elements, they drank on, as did our poor famished 
 
27 
 
 attendants, who soon satisfied their thirst, in 
 a most curious and unexpected manner, by 
 laying down on their backs and opening their 
 mouths, as wide as possible, to let the rain 
 descend to their stomachs with the same rapidity 
 as it fell. How they escaped choaking I have 
 yet to learn, for surely there never was such a sin- 
 gular expedient. They then set about filling the 
 water-carts, whilst my companions arid myself 
 could think of nothing ; but absolutely stood like 
 statues, not even endeavouring to dip up a cup of 
 water to quench our thirst. We must certainly 
 have been what the vulgar in England call thun- 
 der-struck, or something like it ; for the thunder 
 was most awful, and such as I had never heard 
 or could possibly conceive. 
 
 The storm lasted about twenty minutes, and 
 caused the most wonderful change in the face of 
 nature that I believe was ever witnessed. Its de- 
 parture was as sudden as its approach, and, in a 
 few minutes, the face of the heavens was bright 
 and clear as if not a single drop of rain had 
 fallen. This very sudden change in the atmos- 
 phere seemed to regenerate every thing around 
 us. The parched earth seemed to to be renovated 
 with verdure, and both man and beast appeared to 
 have received new animation. 
 
 We pursued our journey without any inconve- 
 nience for four days, when we fell in with a cara- 
 
38 
 
 van of Cuyan merchants going to Buenos Ayres, 
 laden with Cuyan wine, curious and beautiful 
 baskets, made of grass of divers colours, and 
 cups and vases of every different form imagin- 
 able, and so delicately and closely wove that they 
 will retain any kind of liquid ; and, on account 
 of their lightness and beauty, they are used as 
 glasses and cups, and every domestic vessel of 
 the sideboard. They had likewise some curious 
 furs, ostrich feathers of a most surprising length 
 and plumage; also some Indian armour, such as 
 back and breast plates, helmets, and cuirasses 
 made of leather, remarkably light, but at the 
 same time impenetrable either to shot or wea- 
 pons, so that nothing can pierce them. Don John 
 assured us this was the case, as he himself had 
 experienced it more than once. 
 
 About three years before, on his march from 
 Buenos Ayres to Santa Fe, his company was 
 suddenly attacked by a party of roving Indians, 
 whom they had great difficulty to drive back into 
 the woods ; nor did they effect it till he had lost 
 seven men killed and eighteen wounded. After 
 the affair was over, they happily reached a Spanish 
 farm, to which they bore the wounded men, but 
 too late to save more than five of them, for upon 
 examining the wounds they found the Indians 
 had made use of darts and arrows headed with 
 human bone, and it being at that time in the 
 
29 
 
 middle of summer, a gangrene of the wounds 
 had taken place ; and so very subtle was the 
 poison that death came on in a very few hours. 
 
 Every one was astonished that Don John had 
 not fallen, for at the first onset, he could not 
 have escaped the arrows aimed at him, had not 
 this Indian armour preserved him; for the marks 
 of forty-six arrows appeared on his helmet, breast, 
 and shoulders, not one of which had penetrated 
 more than the sixteenth part of an inch. He had 
 been in many skirmishes with different nations, 
 but never fell in with any so wild and ferocious 
 as these. The armour had been given him by a 
 friendly cacique, but he was a stranger to the 
 method adopted by the Indians to make the 
 leather thus invulnerable. He had only heard 
 it was done when the hides were green, and that by 
 placing the hide in a trough of warm water, as 
 soon as it is taken from the animal, in which 
 three different kinds of gums had been dissolved, 
 all three of a very pungent nature : in this infu- 
 sion the hide lays for about twelve or fourteen 
 hours ; it is then taken out and cut into differ- 
 ent pieces according to the size of the object 
 meant to be formed ; each part is then fixed in a 
 mould made of earth baked in the sun, of the most 
 exact dimensions of a breast-plate, helmet, fyc. 
 As soon as it is nicely fitted, and deemed correct 
 in all its proportions, it is left to the air for about 
 
30 
 
 an hour ; it is then rubbed well over with a thick 
 aromatic oil, which is repeated as long as any ab- 
 sorption is observed : before it is taken out of the 
 mould it is well rubbed with a smooth round flint 
 about three inches long and two wide, having one 
 sharp point. This rubbing is continued as long 
 as the least dampness appears on the surface ; it 
 is then taken out and placed in the air, but out of 
 the sun, till it is become as hard as steel. Don 
 John said he had never seen any of these to be 
 sold before, as he had been given to understand, 
 that the nations would not part with any to a 
 Spaniard. Whatever nation it may be, the in- 
 genuity with which they are made, and the neat 
 style in which they are finished, argues a capacity 
 that would, with very little trouble, display as fine 
 a genius as any of those of Greece or Rome, in 
 any thing that pertains to war : not but that the 
 fine arts, I am persuaded, would as readily spring 
 up and flourish, as those of war under expe- 
 rienced masters. Adieu. 
 
31 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 AFTER we had parted from the merchants, we 
 journeyed on, and had to encounter several most 
 dreadful storms of thunder and lightning-, but no 
 more rain till we reached Mendo^a, where we had 
 been but a few hours, when another such a storm, as 
 that we experienced on the plains, came on and 
 as soon departed. We had not arrived here 
 above two hours, before the whole of our caravan 
 came in, and happy indeed I was to find they 
 were all safe. Although I was by this time become 
 familiarized to the thunder, yet I could not divest 
 myself of the idea but that some or other would 
 be killed by it; happily however, no one received 
 the smallest hurt. 
 
 This city is situated about three or four miles 
 from the foot of the Cordilleras; and here the 
 arrangements are made for the route over these 
 tremendous mountains, which takes up eight or 
 ten days to accomplish. The church and public 
 buildings are all very good, as in most of the 
 Spanish towns: those of the inhabitants are but 
 sorry low huts, or houses not more than one 
 story, built of various materials, such as first 
 
32 
 
 comes to hand, arid scattered here and there, 
 without order or regularity ; each having a gar- 
 den attached to it, in which the inhabitants for the 
 most part sleep in a kind of hammock, made of 
 net-work very strong and neat: these are either 
 slung to trees or poles, fixed occasionally in the 
 ground to move at pleasure. A mattress, stuffed 
 with cotton, a pillow and a thin coverlid, com- 
 poses the whole apparatus of a bed, that is to 
 say, during summer, when it is almost impossible 
 to sleep in the house, for the heat and the bugs, 
 which swarm here in abundance, notwithstand- 
 ing the cold of winter, which I should have sup- 
 posed from its severity would destroy that detes- 
 table vermin. 
 
 The native Indians of this province are much 
 taller and thinner than any I have hitherto seen, 
 and of a much darker hue; but this might arise 
 from the paint they lay on their faces, which is, 
 I am told, not confined to red, white or black, 
 but the women make use of even green, when 
 they are most dressed. At their feasts and dances, 
 their dress is very neat, composed of a long shift of 
 cotton, in general without sleeves, fastened round 
 the waist with a broad band of different coloured 
 wool or cotton. They wear a kind of sandal on 
 the feet, composed of wove grass with narrow 
 bands, like ribbon, crossing each other on the 
 leg about three inches above the ancle: these 
 
33 
 
 sandals have a pretty, cool look, and are most 
 admirably adapted to the country. The women let 
 their hair grow to a great length, which they some- 
 times tie in a large knot on the top of their heads, 
 round which they place a chaplet of feathers of the 
 most beautiful colours, beads, or any little ornament 
 they may chance' to have : they know not the 
 use of either the cap or bonnet : these articles 
 would, with them, be a miserable encumbrance. 
 The men's dress is something similar to that of the 
 women. They are considered as much less war- 
 like than those of the neighbouring states; but 
 they possess good understandings, an aptness to 
 learn, and know how to blend patience with ac- 
 tivity. The country produces every comfort re- 
 quisite to life; their wine and oil is thought su- 
 perior to that of most other countries, and their 
 gardens produce every kind of fruit and vegeta- 
 ble. Their bread is of a superior kind, and they 
 want nothing but an incitement to industry, clean- 
 liness and order, to make good and most desirable 
 subjects. Adieu. 
 
LETTER VI. 
 
 WE are lodged at the Convent of the Holv 
 Trinity; a late foundation, but richly endowed by 
 a Spaniard, born at Mendoca, who had amassed 
 immense wealth, without heirs to inherit it; he 
 has therefore made the church his heir, and 
 most plentifully provided for the society, who 
 indeed live in conventual splendour. Three of 
 the Fathers are, at present, at Rome, and for 
 whose return the society appear to be extremely 
 solicitous. Don John to-day held a long con- 
 versation over the dessert with the superior, re- 
 lative to the present state of the church in Europe, 
 which the Father apprehended to be in a very 
 perilous condition; but concluded the discourse 
 by drinking off a large bumper of Lachryma 
 Christi; congratulating the society on their being 
 BO very amply provided for, that let his Holiness 
 stand or fall they would not be affected by it: they 
 should therefore endeavour to enjoy the good 
 things of this life whilst they were able, and im- 
 part their happiness to as many, as it might please 
 Providence to send in their way. This was the 
 first bon vivant I had met with in America; he is 
 
35 
 
 a most jolly soul, totally void of hypocrisy, and 
 I make no doubt he lives up to his profession: 
 but I must observe that this order does not enjoin 
 abstinence in any shape ; we may therefore readily 
 guess, what accommodating ladies they meet with 
 in the female societies under their care, which are 
 two, and, I am assured, are well filled, which seems 
 to be much the fashion in all the cities of this 
 country. There are 1 believe but few penances 
 enjoined: they all seem to be very lax in their 
 morals, and not under much fear of censure. At 
 Buenos Ay res I had many opportunities of no- 
 ticing it; and here, as I understand, it ismuch the 
 same. The Father Provincial has an affair already 
 upon his hands, which he made not the least scruple 
 to avow to me this morning; and this is all these 
 modern holy and infallible sons of the church 
 appear to trouble their heads about : the external 
 ceremonies are hurried over with a carelessness and 
 inattention that more than shocks me : I cannot 
 bear to see the service of God treated with levity 
 or inattention of any kind. Let a man be of what- 
 ever sect he may, so he address his God with respect 
 and reverence, sincerely believing what he pro- 
 fesses to be acceptable to God, that man may in 
 my opinion be deemed a good Christian. 
 
 Can we wonder then at the general dissoluteness 
 of the clergy in these remote climes, or set too * 
 high a value on the missionaries, whose whole 
 
 D2 
 
36 
 
 care was to preserve their religion pure and un- 
 contaminated, in all the simplicity of the primitive 
 Christians. It was their anxiety for the salvation 
 of souls, and declared abhorrence of those vices 
 committed by the generality of the catholic clergy, 
 that raised them up such a swarm of enemies, who 
 finally effected their expulsion from this country, 
 which the Spanish monarchy will have cause very 
 shortly most sadly to lament. Such a general 
 depravity of morals, among the clergy, must in- 
 evitably sap the foundation of every moral virtue 
 in society at large, and then universal anarchy 
 and confusion must ensue; for when the barriers 
 of rectitude and good faith are broken down by 
 those who should be the firmest supporters of it, 
 farewell to every thing that is sacred to man : every 
 tie is then dissolved, and man, unrestrained by 
 either religion or morality, becomes in a short 
 time more brutal than the wild beast of the forest. 
 To avoid holding in utter detestation the whole 
 of the clergy, I think on Father Hernandez, and 
 am again, in some measure, reconciled to them; 
 in the hope that, among the many, I may meet 
 with some few possessing his virtues. Adieu. 
 
37 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 AFTER a fortnight's stay at Mendoca, we left 
 the hospitable mansion of the Holy Trinity, to 
 commence our journey over the Cordilleras, the 
 whole of our company mounted on mules. I was 
 not at all sorry to leave Mendoca, being anxious 
 to breathe a purer air. The great heat of the sun, 
 the fogs, the density of the air, and the barrenness 
 of the prospect, all conspired to make me melan- 
 choly; every unpleasant circumstance of my life 
 crowded on my reflection; nothing seemed to 
 occur but to afflict me. The pleasures of the table, 
 the flashes of wit and good humour that attended 
 our repasts, had no charms for me ; and although 
 my stay here was so very short, yet, in that little 
 time, I had nearly become a misanthrope. I had 
 no Father Hernandez, no Brother Jerome to com- 
 municate with; no natural scenes for my inquir- 
 ing eye to rush upon ; no plants or trees to demand 
 attention and investigate their properties; all 
 seemed one entire blank : for two days only out 
 of the fourteen I was roused from this inertion 
 
38 
 
 by one of the Fathers, who seemed to possess 
 some little respect for the works of nature, and 
 who kindly answered all my questions as to the 
 Indians of the province, their trade and produce; 
 and if they had any works of art or nature to 
 make me acquainted with. As to works of art, 
 he said, we are still in the cradle; but I think I 
 can take you to one of nature, which will as- 
 suredly excite your utmost admiration. He thus 
 explained his object: the river Mendoca, from 
 which the city receives its name, takes its rise in 
 the Eastern part of the Cordilleras, from which 
 it descends, increasing, as it falls, by many small 
 rivulets; and the rapidity with which it descends, 
 has enabled it to force a passage of about sixteen 
 feet wide, through a mountain of chalk, making 
 a sort of arched cave, the roof of which forms a 
 bridge of nearly the same breadth as the aperture: 
 immediately under the bridge, at about twenty 
 feet from the top of the arch, upon an horizontal 
 plane, out of a smooth rock, rise five different 
 fountains of extreme hot water, possessing many 
 medicinal virtues: the water is thrown up as high 
 as the top of the arch, when, as it falls, it min- 
 gles with the river, from which the moment 
 before it had seemed to rise. The combat of those 
 opposite waters on the humidity of the air above, 
 produces the most beautiful crystallizations, in al- 
 most every kind of figure the imagination can 
 
39 
 
 possibly conceive: from between the larger ob- 
 jects are continually falling drops as big as hazel 
 nuts, which, resting on the bed of rock below, 
 presently become petrified, and present to the 
 eye one of the most extraordinary pictures that 
 nature in all her varieties, has, perhaps, beer\ 
 known to display to the eye of the painter, or to 
 reward the researches of the natural philoso* 
 pher. 
 
 Some of them are in the shape of pyramids, 
 with points, as if cut by the hand of the most 
 skilful lapidary, and of the purest white ; close 
 to it shall be another of a different shape, and 
 composed of as many different colours as the 
 rainbow ; others immediately at or round the 
 mouth of the fountains, look like large masses of 
 the purest emerald. I stood for some moments 
 silent and motionless with astonishment, struck 
 with awe and reverence at the scene before me. 
 
 The Father expressed his satisfaction, at having 
 made me acquainted with this most sublime work 
 of nature: but, said he, this is only the com- 
 mencement of those natural wonders, which await 
 you in your passage over these mountains: you 
 will find the works of the Creator multiply as you 
 advance, but not, in any particular degree till 
 you reach the western side; there nature is dis- 
 played in all her varied pomp and magnificence : 
 
40 
 
 there nothing is wanting to impart pleasure and 
 delight to man there she has scattered, with the 
 most bounteous prodigality, every blessing that 
 can in any wise contribute to the comfort and so- 
 lace of life. There, Brother Mathias, will you be 
 happy, for you appear to discriminate correctly 
 and know how to value the works of God. For 
 me the die is cast; I am fated to continue in my 
 present state till recollection shall be no more ; 
 and then! as the good Father said this, he 
 covered his face with his robe and turned from 
 me. 
 
 His words, his manner, and his action, all sur- 
 prised me; and I stood contemplating his parti- 
 cular, but interesting appearance. He awoke, sud- 
 denly as it were, from his reverie, and proposed 
 our return to the convent, as I must suffer some 
 inconvenience by staying longer on the banks of 
 the river. 
 
 The Father saw I was surprised at what he had 
 said, and appeared at times as if he was inclined 
 to renew the conversation, but as often checked 
 himself. Just before we entered the convent, he 
 turned round and asked me, if I would take charge 
 of a letter to a friend of his at St. Jago, which I 
 must undertake to deliver without the knowledge 
 of a second person. I readily assured him of my 
 willingness to do that, or any thing else that might 
 
41 
 
 be in my power. This assurance, on my part, im- 
 mediately gave to his countenance a tranquillity 
 that I had not observed before, and we passed se- 
 veral hours that evening in general, but very 
 pleasing, conversation. At my going to rest I 
 found a note on my pillow, which informed me 
 that Father Savodro would thank me if I would 
 accompany him early in the morning to the pre- 
 sidency of St. Ruloma, about a league from the 
 town ; and he would be ready for me an hour 
 before sun-rise, in the Refectory Garden, as he 
 had something to show me that would excuse his 
 proposal. My expectations were awakened on the 
 occasion, as I thought there was something 
 more than a natural curiosity to be unfolded to 
 me; and I could not but imagine, that some- 
 thing relative to his situation in the convent, 
 was the real reason for desiring me to accom- 
 pany him. 
 
 I had observed from my first introduction to him, 
 that, though surrounded with every earthly com- 
 fort, he seemed not to enjoy them: but, even at 
 table, appeared frequently abstracted, and as if 
 his thoughts were wandering to some far distant 
 object; neither mirth nor wine seemed to have any 
 pleasure for him ; and he would frequently retire 
 to his room, when every one else was fully en- 
 joying the good things before them, without tak- 
 ing thought of the morrow. I had attributed this 
 
42 
 
 conduct to a stern disposition, which is inherent 
 in some constitutions. In this, however, I was 
 much deceived: he was truly unhappy, and by 
 such a suspicion I did him great injustice, for 
 which I have since sought to make every possi- 
 ble atonement. 
 
43 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 St. Jago. 
 
 WE were ten days passing the Cordilleras ; 
 the first five were the most unpleasant I ever re- 
 member. Almost immediately on leaving- the 
 city we began to ascend, in slow and solemn 
 order, one by one, it being impossible to move 
 two abreast unless in the little valleys which seem 
 to have been scattered here and there, to serve as 
 resting-places for the adventurous traveller ; and 
 but for these, it would, in my opinion, be utterly 
 impossible to effect a passage over mountains 
 piled on mountains, with only narrow paths just 
 wide enough for a single mule to make good its 
 steps, and so extremely steep and slippery by the 
 rushing of numberless streams, from one preci- 
 pice to another, that the secure step of the mules, 
 (especially when they had to cross deep and wide 
 rivulets, rushing with the impetuosity of the most 
 agitated mill-streams and bearing down all before 
 them,) is a natural subject of admiration and as- 
 tonishment. Indeed, on the second day of our 
 advance, one of these streams upset a mule, laden 
 
44 
 
 with provisions, that had been sent in advance to 
 gain a small valley where we were to halt for the 
 night. The animal was saved from inevitable 
 destruction by being caught between two pieces 
 of rock against which the torrent had driven him. 
 
 In some parts of our journey we had to pass, 
 for several leagues over a rugged narrow path, 
 continually intersected by streams occasioned by 
 the melting of the snow in the more lofty parts of 
 the mountains. On the eastern side, in our pas- 
 sage from Cuyo to Chili, we were constantly in- 
 volved in clouds, with frequent storms of thunder 
 and lightning, more tremendous than imagination 
 can conceive, and this weather continued till we 
 were within five leagues of the summit of the pass; 
 when the air becomes rarefied and the dense va- 
 pours disperse. The cold at the same time begins 
 to pierce through every limb, and compels the 
 traveller to have recourse to furred cloaks and 
 caps, with which we were provided ; but should it 
 be my lot again to cross to Cuyo, I would have a 
 complete dress made of wool in the fleece, to set 
 close to the body, and wear it underneath my 
 linen, s>o that the limbs would be more at liberty 
 than with a cloak, which after all, is heavy and 
 inconvenient. 
 
 The change from almost suffocating heat to 
 piercing cold made me conclude we could not be 
 far off the mid region of the air; for upon look- 
 
45 
 
 ing up to notice the distance between such as 
 were below and those which had nearly reached 
 the summit, and who appeared to be, as Shak- 
 speare says, no bigger than a crow, my breath 
 became so exceedingly rarefied, that I was fain 
 to place my hand hastily on my mouth in order to 
 preserve the requisite temperature of the heart, 
 and which I was obliged to continue repeating 
 for some time after I had gained the summit, and 
 also for a considerable way on the descent; but 
 the prospect I enjoyed when I had gained the 
 plain, more than repaid me for all the difficulties 
 I had encountered in my ascent. 
 
 I could not but imagine that I was transported 
 to some region, so far removed above the resi- 
 dence of man, that no evils incident to mortals 
 could possibly reach me more. Above, nothing 
 was to be seen but the wide concave of heaven, 
 in the midst of which the sun shone in most re- 
 splendent majesty ; nota singlecloud or vapour \vas 
 to be seen: there was nothing but calmness, serenity, 
 and peace. The earth was hid from our sight by 
 tempestuous clouds resting in the lower region of 
 the air, and discharging their angry vapours on 
 the earth below. Whilst I stood contemplating 
 the scene, my mind expanded, and my spirit 
 seemed to struggle for emancipation from the 
 body, that it might take its flight to still higher 
 regions, and be instantly free from all the cares 
 
46 
 
 and sorrows that harrow up the soul of man ; but 
 I was soon roused from this dream of seraphic 
 liberty by the order for the caravan to proceed. 
 We therefore immediately began to descend, and 
 as we approached the first valley where we were to 
 halt for the night, we were surprised at the sound 
 of voices and the tinkling of the muleteer's bell ; 
 as we proceeded we found it to be a military 
 party going from St. Jago to Buenos Ay res. These 
 I could presently divine to be only the forerunner, 
 or to speak more properly, the advanced guard of 
 a much greater number, sent thither to replace 
 those that had a short time before our departure, 
 taken the route for the Uraguay. There were 
 only ninety-five privates, and seven officers, all 
 but one quite young men, who had been but a 
 very few weeks arrived at St. Jago from Old 
 Spain* The men who did not appear to be much 
 acquainted with military duty, were all very indif- 
 ferently armed and accoutred. 
 
 Their officers seemed to be gay sprightly youths, 
 at full liberty to say and do whatever they thought 
 proper. One of them I am certain was a French- 
 man, and he appeared to have the command : 
 his air and manner was perfectly French ; he 
 spoke good Spanish, but with a French accent, 
 and was the best dressed ; although his costume 
 was correctly that of a Spaniard, yet Buonaparte's 
 style was visible throughout. 
 
47 
 
 So you may readily conclude what the Frencji 
 are about here, and it serves to confirm the con- 
 jecture I had formed as to the probable business of 
 
 the Duke de B , should it be permitted to 
 
 succeed. Alas ! the poor Indians, they will only 
 change the tiger for the hyena. On seeing 
 those men my thoughts involuntarily reverted to 
 the scenes at Rioja, and I much regretted I had 
 not stayed among the sons of liberty. 
 
 We halted in this valley fourteen hours longer 
 than was intended, on hearing from the soldiers 
 that a river which we had to cross, about four 
 leagues from thence, was so much swollen as to 
 cause the loss of three mules and one man : it was 
 therefore thought advisable by our company to 
 remain where we then were, till the force of the 
 current was abated, which would be by the next 
 morning. The meeting of two caravans in the 
 mountains is so extremely rare that the chief mule- 
 teer said he had never heard of such a circumstance 
 but once, and that was about eight years ago. when 
 some disturbances took place at Cordova, but of 
 which he never knew the result. 
 
 The soldiers left us early the next morning. 
 Don John did not appear to be well pleased with 
 something the commanding officer said at parting. 
 He remained thoughtful and perplexed during 
 the remainder of our journey; I was not near 
 him at the time, therefore could form no probable 
 
48 
 
 conjecture as to the subject. I cannot but think 
 that something is in agitation of a very particular 
 nature, else why is this grand council of the Indias 
 to be assembled at St. Jago in such a private 
 manner ; and why are there so many French in 
 Chili as I have heard there are : and those whose 
 names with which I have been made acquainted, 
 I well know to be some of the most restless, fac- 
 tious, and intriguing spirits that ever cursed a 
 nation ; and, if the Spaniards in this hemisphere 
 are not more firm in their principles, or more 
 powerful than some with whom I have been ac- 
 quainted, the French will soon obtain the sole 
 government of both kingdoms, and then must 
 follow the subjugation of the universe: for no- 
 thing but the ALMIGHTY can arrest the progress, 
 or overthrow the designs, of this so much boasted 
 Emperor of the French. He appears to me, an 
 instrument in the hands of God to chastise a 
 sinful world ; and to show to the sovereigns of it, 
 how w r eak and how futil e is al 1 their power and great- 
 ness, when the protecting hand of Heaven is with- 
 drawn from them, and they are left to know and 
 feel that there is a POWER which can, in a mo- 
 ment, shake to its foundation the throne of the 
 proudest potentate, and shew them that an honest 
 and good man, however low his state, is more 
 highly valued, and more acceptable to the great 
 Creator, than the tyrant who boasts that all man- 
 kind are but his slaves. 
 
49 
 
 O how I wish at this moment to know what is 
 transacting in Europe ! surely some great event 
 is at hand, or perhaps has already occurred. 
 Had we kept Buenos Ayres when it was in our 
 possession, millions would have been now alive 
 to bless us who have since been sacrificed to 
 a weak infatuated policy. But I still hope 
 that Great Britain will in the end become the 
 arbiter of the fate of those more than wretched 
 Indians, who are, in the great scale of nature, of 
 equal weight with the most enlightened nations 
 of the earth. I have been now so many years 
 in this hemisphere, have seen so many dif- 
 ferent tribes, and have so minutely studied their 
 natures, both in their savage and civilized state, 
 that I almost at times imagine I am one of their 
 race: nor do I think myself lowered by the sup- 
 position : but I dare not avow these sentiments to 
 those with whom I remain a captive. Indeed, I 
 know not where I am straying ; you see my ramb- 
 ling thoughts are ever on the wing, you will there- 
 fore make allowances for one who is over anxious 
 for the fate of the oppressed. Adieu. 
 
50 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 THE descent on the western si3e of the moun- 
 tains, though not less difficult, is far more plea- 
 sant ; the resting places more frequently occur. 
 Unattended with fogs, thunder, or lightning, 
 now and then some heavy clouds would pour 
 down upon us in the valleys, which, for a short 
 time, made it appear as if we were borne 
 along upon them ; and the meteors, engendered 
 by their denseness, would hiss about in all di- 
 rections, cracking and darting like so many squibs 
 or crackers. These visitors the mules did not 
 seem to relish ; two of them got one evening 
 between Don John's mule and the Father Pro- 
 vincial's, and so frightened the animals, that both 
 gentlemen were quickly unmuled, but, very for- 
 tunately, received no hurt of any consequence. 
 It was fortunate, indeed, that we did not meet with 
 them when passing the narrow steeps ; in that 
 case inevitable death must have been the lot of 
 both mules and riders, for we had but an hour 
 before passed down a path, which but to think on 
 fills the mind with the most uncontrolled horror. 
 For my part, I shut my eyes and committed my- 
 
51 
 
 self entirely to the protection of Providence, and 
 the poor trembling mule who was as sensible 
 of the danger as myself. Picture to yourself 
 a path about a foot wide, broken and disjointed 
 by the force of descending currents, whose ra- 
 pidity is such as to baffle all description, for it is 
 impossible for the eye to look at them for a mo- 
 ment without being giddy. On the right hand 
 a wall of rugged rocks, with ever and anon pro- 
 jecting pieces, which if the traveller should chance 
 to strike against, both man and beast must embrace 
 instant death, by being hurried headlong over 
 a precipice of horrid rocks, into a deep and rapid 
 river rolling at the bottom, and rushing on with 
 such indescribable impetuosity, as to startle and 
 confound the most resolute and determined mind. 
 I, therefore, thought it most advisable not to keep 
 my eye upon the surrounding dangers : and thus 
 I proceeded without any incident worthy of no- 
 tice. 
 
 We now came to a valley of about a mile and 
 a half in diameter, surrounded on all sides by 
 stupendous rocks, forming altogether an enchant- 
 ing amphitheatre. On entering it, the eye is 
 struck with the view of a scene that beggars all 
 description : an evergreen plain so delightfully 
 intermixed with odoriferous plants, shrubs, and 
 flowers, that we might have fancied our arrival in 
 a Mahometan paradise. In the centre of this 
 
 2 
 
52 
 
 fairy land rises several fountains, which threw 
 their water into the air to a surprising height, 
 when they formed by their fall a thousand mean- 
 dering streams, which, after repeated windings 
 and turnings, united in one stream pouring 
 into a large river about half a mile distant. 
 This delightful scenery occupied all my thoughts 
 for some time, even after I had reached St. Jago, 
 for I had taken up and brought safely with me 
 four most beautiful shrubs, such as I had never 
 seen before, and all of them in full bloom. 
 
 The stem of one is about twenty inches in 
 height, and about one inch in diameter, the bark 
 of which is so exactly coloured, and marked with 
 circles like the back of the rattle-snake, that, at 
 first sight, I actually thought it a young one, 
 raised itself up to dart at some object among the 
 flowers, and had absolutely advanced to kill it; 
 when 1 was surprised to find myself most agree- 
 ably deceived. It has neither branches or leaves, 
 but on the top, where it sends forth one large 
 bud ; that, in three or four days, bursts, and pre- 
 sents to the eye about ten or twelve leaves, ex- 
 actly resembling, in shape, form, and texture, a 
 plume of ostrich feathers of a pomona green co- 
 lour, tipt at the edge with a dark brown : from 
 between every two leaves springs a cluster of 
 flowers, green, white, and pink, in form and 
 shape like the everlasting pea: each cluster con- 
 
53 
 
 taining from twenty to thirty flowers, rising about 
 three inches above the leaves, when it gently bends 
 downwards and forms altogether one of the most 
 beautiful coronets that art or nature ever pro- 
 duced, and emitting at the same time a very strong 
 scent resembling amber. I doubt that it was from 
 this flower the Indian caciques caught the idea of 
 forming those elegant feather ornaments, which 
 the chiefs wear on their heads at their festivals 
 and processions, and pleased me so much at 
 Buenos Ayres. Another is a verv low plant, in 
 shape and size like a hen's egg, having a very 
 delicate fibrous root ; it is wholly covered 
 with leaves and flowers that spring out of the 
 egg, and rise about two inches : the leaves 
 are dark green on the upper side, and most pure 
 white below. From the root of every leaf springs 
 three flowers in the form of a star, of the colour 
 of peach blossom, and each flower is about half 
 an inch in diameter : the eye of each strongly 
 resembles a polyanthus, while the scent lays not 
 in the flower but in the leaves, which, when agi- 
 tated by the air, seems to perspire a kind of gum 
 that adheres to the touch : its scent is very pow- 
 erful, but sweet like lavender. 
 
 The third plant is, properly speaking, a flower- 
 ing stick, for which reason I have given it the 
 name of Aaron's Rod. That which I have is about 
 two feet long, correctly round, hollow like a 
 
54 
 
 tube ; the surface is a very light green, sprinkled 
 with spots of deep yellow : it is covered with 
 flowers in shape and colour like apple blossoms ; 
 has very little smell, and the flowers continue 
 only about fourteen or sixteen days, when they 
 drop off without any apparent decay, and are suc- 
 ceeded by a green knob about the size of a pepper 
 corn. For the first eight days it remains green, 
 then changes to a deep yellow, and lastly black, 
 when it falls off and is almost immediately suc- 
 ceeded by a flower: and this, I am told, is its 
 unvarying course, till it reaches about six feet in 
 height, when it suddenly decays. They are re- 
 produced by the seed contained in the berry, 
 which when opened discloses a small husk about 
 the size of rape seed ; though if sown in pots it does 
 not produce so strong a plant as those which 
 spring from self-sown seed. The last is a shrub 
 of most rare medicinal virtues : it possesses, I am 
 told, all the valuable properties of the celebrated 
 bezoar stone, once so highly extolled as an an- 
 tidote against all poisons and malignant fevers. 
 The plant I have is very young, not above a foot 
 in height, therefore I cannot as yet prove its vir- 
 tues: the nearest that resembles it among our 
 English shrubs is rue, and its scent is not unlike 
 it, only much more powerful : the leaves are very 
 bitter, and the juice a violent astringent. It is not 
 common for it to flower more than once a year, 
 
55 
 
 / 
 
 when it is nearly covered with flowers in shape of 
 small trumpets of a light blue and yellow. I am 
 highly pleased with my acquisition, and hope I shall 
 at'some future period be able to send them to you. 
 
 There is a great variety of most beautiful flowers 
 scattered over all the little plains and valleys that 
 are crossed in the descent on the western side of 
 the Andes or Cordilleras, as also a great number of 
 aromatic plants, which to a skilful botanist would 
 afford the highest gratification. For my own part 
 I could most willingly have taken up my abode 
 in this valley of sweets and silence from whence 
 I bore away the plants, being certain of finding 
 a never-ending variety in these delightful walks 
 of nature, where the sublime and beautiful meet 
 the eye in every direction : and where the 
 works of the great Creator must call forth all our 
 gratitude and praise, to find amidst the most ter- 
 rifying scenes of natural horrors such a tranquil 
 seat of nature. 
 
 There cannot be a more striking emblem of 
 life than the passage of the Cordilleras. The 
 vast and immeasurable plains you have to pass 
 before you begin to ascend the mountain, we will 
 suppose to be the state of infancy, for through the 
 whole of it we are obliged to be conducted and 
 supported by a guide. From the moment we 
 begin to ascend the mountain, to that of gaining 
 the summit, I consider as the years spent from 
 
56 
 
 youth to manhood. Here we are glad to rest for 
 a short time, which, when we have enjoyed, we 
 begin to descend. Now this I argue, from the mo- 
 ment we begin this arduous journey on the 
 eastern side to the period we gain the top, we 
 meet with nothing but impediments, difficulties, 
 and danger : all appears as if we were altogether 
 engaged in fatigue, tumult, and disorder. Every 
 element seems determined to oppose your pas- 
 sage, and threaten you with inevitable de- 
 struction if you persevere. Such is what man 
 meets with on his entrance into life. But if he 
 places his confidence in the Divine protection, he 
 gains at length the summit in safety, and pursues 
 the remainder of his journey with confidence, and 
 the hope of surmounting every remaining danger. 
 At length he attains in the delightful valley the 
 full consummation of all his wishes. Such, my 
 friend, were my fanciful ideas as I stood musing 
 in the valley. 
 
 The passage over the mountains is computed 
 to be forty leagues from the commencement of 
 its base on either side. It used to be considered 
 as wholly impossible to make this journey in 
 winter ; but there have been many instances lately 
 of Indians having performed it even in the most 
 inclement season, and also in far less time. The 
 winter sets in about the middle of May, when the 
 snow commences falling, and entirely envelopes 
 
57 
 
 the whole of this vast chain, as if with a garment 
 of celestial whiteness ; and although there are not 
 less than fifteen to twenty volcanos dispersed 
 among them, the snow never wholly disappears, 
 but remains even in the hottest summers, as a 
 blessing to the earth by refreshing the valleys 
 with cold breezes, and at the same time pouring 
 down innumerable streams and rivers, which in 
 many places overflow their banks, and, like the 
 treasures of the Nile, fertilize and enrich the earth. 
 These great blessings, added to the advantage 
 Chili possesses of being constantly refreshed by 
 the sea breezes, renders this kingdom more tem- 
 perate and congenial to Europeans, than any other 
 of this vast continent. But being as it were the 
 termination of the Spanish discoveries, it has not 
 been so well known and appreciated as either of 
 the others. Adieu. 
 
LETTER IX. 
 
 St. Jago, Convent of St. Francis. 
 
 1 HAD the happiness on my arrival here to find 
 our good Superior in health, but not tranquil ; 
 the account I gave him of what occurred 
 
 at ; , the death of my ever lamented 
 
 friend, and the relation of what passed between 
 the governor and him. Father Pablo burst into 
 tears, and severely accused himself as being, in 
 some measure, the cause of his death, by leaving 
 him exposed to dangers that he apprehended at 
 the time he left him ; but he had no idea that 
 matters would have been carried to such extremes. 
 The worthy man enjoined me to silence, and to 
 continue my character of a novice, and by no 
 means to make any one acquainted with my being 
 an Englishman ; but to let those with whom I 
 should associate consider me as a French gentle- 
 man, who had sought refuge in the church from 
 the anarchy in Europe. Such an opinion, he 
 said, would be readily received, as a vast many 
 had already sought and found a secure asylum in 
 Chili, and he did not doubt but I should meet 
 
59 
 
 with many at St. Jago. He left me at perfect li- 
 berty to make what arrangements I thought proper 
 in respect to any intercourse I might have with 
 any of that nation. 
 
 Father Pablo purposes to remain here till an 
 expected bull from Rome arrives, but of what 
 nature I cannot learn : it has been long promised, 
 and very earnestly desired by the bishop of this 
 diocese, who has it seems in this hemisphere as 
 many prerogatives as his holiness. God knows 
 how they will come on, but if I guess right, the 
 holy father's infallibility is become, even here, a 
 matter of dispute, and in consequence his throne 
 will not long remain more steady than his neigh- 
 bours; but every thing you know must have an 
 end, great as well as small : all must submit to 
 its appointed time. I shall venture to prognos- 
 ticate before twenty years are elapsed, that there will 
 either be in this country no religion at all, or it 
 will be that of the protestants. The former will be 
 the case should the French obtain the ascendency, 
 and the latter if the Britons, which God of his 
 infinite mercy grant; for notwithstanding the pre- 
 sent victorious arms of the great nation and their 
 invincible chief, I cannot help promising myself 
 that Britain will, in some way or other, arrest his 
 career, and prevent his overturning this southern 
 world, as he has done with your neighbours. You 
 know not how earnestly I wish to obtain a parole 
 
60 
 
 of six months, that 1 might hasten to home, and 
 there point out the necessity of England taking 
 an active part here, to prevent those threatened 
 evils which I but too plainly see hover over the 
 poor natives. As to the Spaniards, they are too 
 dissolute and abandoned, as well as too generally 
 attached to the French, to fear or care for any 
 thing about them. I would most readily give a 
 thousand piastres to any one who would inform 
 me how matters are likely to terminate on your 
 side of the great waters. Adieu. 
 
61 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Convent of St. Francis. 
 
 To speak in Sterne's phrase, 1 should say thai 
 the convent from which I date this letter, and, in 
 which I am to reside during our stay in Chili, is, 
 without exception, the greatest, the grandest, the 
 fairest, and fullest, and richest of all the pious 
 edifices at St. Jago. The boasted grand Char- 
 treuse in your part of the world, is but a poor 
 subaltern, when put in comparison with (this 
 which is a well peopled town within itself. The 
 gardens are immense, and I think, may boast the 
 produce of every clime on earth. 
 
 In this delightful spot I range at will, having 
 been well received by the community, and in par- 
 ticular by the superior. My time is much my own, 
 being considered more as an ecclesiastical aide-de- 
 camp to Father Pablo, than a novice on the estab- 
 lishment. From the indulgencies granted me of 
 going and coming as I please, I am induced to 
 think the bishop and the superior have been made 
 acquainted with my story, and, from thence, sup- 
 pose me worthy of their confidence. The church 
 
62 
 
 of this convent is of free-stone, in a bold style of 
 architecture ; the steeple is considerably higher 
 than any other in the city, and so admirably si- 
 tuated, that it serves as a point to direct the tra- 
 veller at the distance of several leagues. This 
 steeple was the first object which caught my at- 
 tention on approaching St. Jago; and, were I an 
 adept at description, which unfortunately I am 
 not, I should endeavour to describe its architec- 
 tural merits ; I can therefore only say, that it is 
 composed of three different divisions, each of a 
 different order, Grecian, Roman, and Egyptian: 
 round each are well wrought balustrades, from 
 whence most enchanting prospects may be seen. 
 The Egyptian order, in the form of a pyramid, 
 forms the highest point. The street, in which 
 the church and convent stand, is of great breadth. 
 It is termed Cannada, runs north and south more 
 than the whole length of the city, and has a foot- 
 way as with us: one side is planted with trees, 
 that serve as an embankment to a small branch 
 of the river Mapocha, which is let on in various 
 directions to water the streets and gardens, by 
 which means the city is clean and cool ; for by 
 turning on the water, which I am told is done 
 every day in summer, all kind of filth is sent off 
 and empties itself into the great river some way 
 below the city. Thus the inhabitants are enabled 
 to enjoy the most refreshing coldness even in the 
 
63 
 
 hottest part of the day ; and, in the evening, the 
 streets are crowded at the doors with men, women, 
 and children, all enjoying themselves, dressed out 
 in all their finery, in which they display as much 
 affected grandeur as they can possibly command. 
 The churchesand houses for the religious are very 
 numerous, the inmates of which appear to me as 
 if they composed the far greater part of the po- 
 pulation, and not more strict than their brothers 
 of the Holy Trinity. Nor are the ladies less ac- 
 commodating if I understand them right. But 
 of this I shall soon know more, by means of the 
 letter of Father Savedros I have to deliver, whom 
 I greatly pity, and for whose future peace I am 
 truly interested. The letter is addressed to a 
 very near relation of the president of the Royal 
 Alidencia, whose province is similar to that of 
 our Lord Chancellor; but with this difference, he 
 is obliged to keep a court that vies in splendonr 
 with the governor's. The various subordinate 
 offices at the president's disposal, attaches great 
 numbers to his service, all of whom, on certain 
 days, pay their court, when there is evidently a 
 grand struggle who shall make the most splendid 
 appearance ; and to that excess they used to carry 
 this ridiculous ostentation, that it not un fre- 
 quently caused the ruin of families. At present, 
 however, this mania appears to have abated with 
 the men, but the ladies still maintain their prero- 
 
64 
 
 gative of dress and parade ; for though they wear 
 now but just drapery enough to cover the middle 
 part of their bodies, yet there is.as much foppery 
 or vanity, or whatever name you may choose to 
 give it, displayed in the little they do wear, as 
 was formerly employed in their more cumbrous 
 and extravagant dresses. I will give, as well as I 
 am able, a slight sketch of a lady to whom 1 had 
 the honour of an introduction yesterday ; she is a 
 
 near relation of Cardinal , at St. Jago, 
 
 on a visit from Lima. 
 
 She is about the middle size, neither fair nor 
 brown, with black hair, black eyes, and good teeth ; 
 her face and features were not striking, but very 
 well for a great lady, who always has it in her 
 power to supply by art the deficiencies of nature. 
 To begin then with her chemise ; (for all the com- 
 ponent parts of her dress were distinctly visible,) 
 it was of the finest cambric, the bottom of which 
 was trimmed with very broad point lace, of about 
 twenty guineas a yard, but the cambric reached 
 no farther than the top of the knee : silk stockings 
 of a pale blush, embroidered with small rose buds 
 of silver ; her slippers, or rather sandals, were of 
 silver tissue, embroidered with red rose buds, 
 banded round the instep and ancle after the 
 Indian manner; but instead of ribbon they were 
 of pearl and emeralds, and served to display, to 
 the greatest advantage, a beautifully formed foot 
 
r 
 
 JLAB1T OF ]LHMA IN MEM 
 
65 
 
 and ancle. The stockings were fastened at the 
 top with the celebrated Indian garters, which con- 
 tained a talisman, the value of which is highly 
 rated, as it is supposed to warn the wearer of every 
 good or evil that is to befal them, and no lady, 
 I am told, would be seen in company without 
 them, being considered as the most essential part 
 of their dress. They may be worn either round 
 the leg or the upper part of the arm, and are in* 
 variably of one shape ; that of a flat garter with 
 springs, but covered with the most costly mate- 
 rials, according to the fortune or caprice of the 
 wearer. The lady's in question were of satin, set 
 on each side with alternate pearl and emerald : in 
 the centre of each garter was an opening in the form 
 of a lozenge, which contains the talisman. This 
 also was set round with the same costly materials ; 
 and it clasped on the outside of the leg with an 
 emerald, from which depended two tassels of 
 oriental pearls. I must own this part of the dress 
 pleased me much ; as there appeared to be so 
 much real taste displayed in the arrangement of 
 it A close vest of silver tissue formed the shape, 
 to which was fastened with pearls a drapery of point 
 lace, reaching as low as where the cambric ended. 
 This drapery was bordered at the bottom with a 
 fringe about three inches deep, of the same inter- 
 mixture of jewellery as the sandals. The neck, 
 bosom, and arms were decorated, in the same man- 
 
66 
 
 tier, with a profusion of pearls: but they 
 had no covering, except a fall of fine point lace 
 from the sleeve of the chemise. The hair, of 
 which the ladies here have a great quantity, was 
 banded and looped with pearls; and on one side 
 was u large bunch of white roses composed of pearl, 
 with leaves of emeralds. These, together with 
 the happy arrangement of the hair, formed one 
 of the most simple, and at the same time the most 
 pleasing head-dresses I had ever seen ; so that the 
 lady was altogether the most interesting figure I 
 had seen since my arrival in Chili. Besides the 
 soft tone of her voice, with her mild and gentle 
 manners, all bespoke a mind perfectly in unison 
 with the simplicity, yet grandeur and magnifi- 
 cence of her exterior appearance. 
 
 So much for a description of a lady's dress: as 
 it is my first essay, I assure you it will be the last, 
 for I knew not by what names I should describe 
 the different parts; indeed I was obliged to have 
 recourse to the lady's nurse, who has been most 
 kindly communicative, for an explanation. She 
 readily answered all my questions, and entered 
 into a detail of the change of fashions for the last 
 twenty years. With every new ship that arrives 
 at Lima direct from Europe, the dresses of the 
 ladies and gentlemen undergo a revolution, which 
 quickly extends to all the distant provinces ; so 
 that the ancient costume of the different states is 
 
OF THE 
 
 i UNIVERSITY ) 
 
 OF 
 
TORESS -OF A 1LA1W OIF 
 MEM SERVANT,' ( F 'CMIJL1I 
 
67 
 
 altogether done away with, or confined to 
 those of the lower order. She said the dresses 
 of both sexes are still carried to an unbounded 
 excess, when they assemble in the Grand Place to 
 witness a bull fight, a procession, or any public 
 spectacle. They are often attended by two or 
 three, or more servants, habited in the most 
 costly liveries, one of them charged with the care 
 of a large nosegay, another with an embroidered 
 handkerchief, a third with a parasol, and so on. 
 The latter article is here one of the most expensive 
 of a lady's dress: it is not unusual to have them 
 made of the finest and most expensive French 
 lace, lined with silk and edged with gold or silver 
 fringe of prodigious depth, the stick of ivory, 
 mounted with gold or silver, and the ribs notun- 
 frequently set with jewels of great value. 
 
 Many of the Fathers are busily employed in 
 preparations for the festival of the Purification ; 
 and never was so much money squandered in 
 pious pageantry and nonsense, as they are now 
 throwing away : the lighting up of the church, 
 and the procession candles alone will cost, I am 
 assured, twelve thousand pieces of eight. If su- 
 perstition has no other advantage, it causes money 
 to circulate by its expensive mummeries, which 
 in the eye of reason, must be considered as in 
 direct opposition to that simplicity, which is one 
 
68 
 
 of the genuine, and indeed, most distinguishing 
 features of the Christian religion. 
 
 I have this day, with the Father Provincial, paid 
 a visit to a gentleman recently arrived from the 
 city of the Conception; and, in my walk, had an 
 opportunity of seeing some of the principal parts 
 of the city. It is large, and extremely well laid out ; 
 abounding with magnificent churches, the greater 
 part of them having large open areas or squares, 
 termed Placeras, which afford a commanding 
 view of the edifice. The Palace of the Royal 
 Audencia, occupies a large space, and has in 
 some respects an appearance like the houses at 
 Chester, having piazzas in front, the whole 
 length of it: this building contains all the differ- 
 ent offices of the Government, both civil and 
 military. The Bishop is absolute lord over all 
 ecclesiastical affairs, and every thing appears to 
 be conducted with great order and regularity. 
 I was taken also to a celebrated Oratory of St. 
 Bruno, situated in La Placera de St. Saturnino, 
 (one of the principal squares) where all proces- 
 sions pass on their visit to St. Bruno, of which 
 Saint I know not how many miracles are related, 
 and either said or sung in procession to his 
 shrine. But these processions,! am told are not now 
 so frequent or so numerously attended as at for- 
 mer periods. I have not as yet seen any of the 
 
69 
 
 Clergy attached to the missions, and Father Pablo 
 but rarely discourses on the subject. Something 
 most assuredly is in agitation of great importance, 
 for three messengers have come from Lima, within 
 this last fortnight ; and six crown officers, charged 
 with dispatches from the Governor, hare gone 
 from hence ; but all about me are obstinately si- 
 lent on every topic but domestic ones. Don John 
 set off yesterday in great haste, immediately after 
 the last messenger had arrived : when he took 
 leave of Father Pablo and myself he seemed much 
 agitated. He was not certain how long his stay 
 might be, but should it be of any continuance he 
 should not fail to apprize our Superior of it. I 
 conjecture all is not tranquil at Lima; for the 
 Governor, I am informed, is wholly taken up in 
 examining papers sent to him, and dispatching 
 messengers. The militia of this district have re- 
 ceived orders to assemble this week, and directions 
 have also been sent to the Town House to get 
 ready every man's arms, for service as occasion 
 may require. I have not met with any French 
 except two factors, of whom I ventured to make 
 some inquiries ; but they either could not or 
 would not give me any satisfaction. 
 
 Now, my friend, would be the time to strike a 
 bold stroke for the poor Indians of Paraguay, 
 and the L^ragnay. These provinces, once more 
 in the possession of the natives, would quickly 
 
70 
 
 carry all before them, provided they were com- 
 manded by British Officers ; in that case they 
 would not be long in reaching this delightful 
 country, and joining their force to the Chilians, 
 who are the bravest and most humane of all the 
 Indians, and the only nation that has not been con- 
 quered by the Spaniards. They maintained with 
 invincible courage, patience and resolution, an 
 uninterrupted war for one hundred and two years, 
 commencing with the invaders, and continued on 
 by their successors, without interruption, for the 
 whole of that period; when the Spaniards were 
 compelled to sue for peace, at least the mis- 
 sionaries found means to bring about an accom- 
 modation, by which it was agreed, that the 
 Spaniards should retain what they were then 
 masters of, but not to advance further into the 
 country on any pretence whatever. No Spaniard 
 to make any Indian slaves, or to consider them 
 in any other light than a brave, free, and in- 
 dependent people. 
 
 The Indians and Spaniards reciprocally signed 
 this treaty, of which the above is a mere outline. 
 The Indians, with that honour and integrity 
 whieh mark their character and influence their 
 conduct, most rigidly adhered to it ; while the 
 Spaniards, as soon as they found themselves 
 strong enough to risque an infringement, did not 
 scruple to break through the whole ; which has 
 
71 
 
 for these last thirty years, occasioned perpetual 
 warfare. An ancient Indian told me, they might 
 then have easily extirpated the Spaniards, if the 
 English, when they were at Buenos Ayres, had 
 made use of policy instead of arms, by securing 
 to their interest a very large body of Indians, in 
 the province of Pueuma and other places ; all of 
 whom, by a little management, would soon have 
 joined the British, secured the capital, and then 
 have marched across the Pampas, over the Cor- 
 dilleras, and poured down upon St. Jago, before 
 any possible knowledge of such an event could 
 have reached Chili, as the Indians would have 
 secured the passage across the mountains. The 
 capital must then have immediately submitted ; 
 resistance, on the part of the Spaniards, would 
 have been the height of madness, for they were too 
 sensible of the power of the Indian arms, if led on 
 by Europeans : they knew them also to be no less 
 just than brave, and scrupulously tenacious of 
 their words ; so that whatever engagements 
 they had made with the English, they would ful- 
 fil them with the most firm and undeviating in- 
 tegrity. This discourse served to confirm the 
 idea I have uniformly entertained ever since my 
 wandering in theUraguay, Tucuman, &c. If a con- 
 fidential Englishman could be sent to the interior, 
 get adopted into any of the tribes, and take 
 a wife from among the Indian women, a plan 
 
72 
 
 of the most extensive nature, might be sketched 
 out for him to act upon, which, with a little ad- 
 dress, might easily be accomplished. 
 
 Instead of making a descent with troops on the 
 coast, and marching, from thence, to attack their 
 fortified towns, in the usual intrepid manner of 
 Britons, the attack should be made in the rear by 
 an Indian army, but under the directions of the 
 British; though not at Mexico or Lima. Chili 
 being first secured, all the rest would be made a 
 most easy conquest; as from thence every thing 
 could be drawn, that is requisite to maintain 
 the most numerous armies. 
 
 The mines of Chili are the richest in the world ; 
 the knowledge of which, the Indians have, with 
 the most unparalleled bravery, kept entirely to 
 themselves: besides, it is, by their laws, instant 
 death to any one who should discover to a 
 Spaniard the approaches to any of the gold 
 mines. They have therefore remained unworked 
 ever since the Chilians obtained the victory over 
 Valdivia, but they would soon be opened to re- 
 ward their liberators ; and the natural produce 
 of Chili is so abundant, that provisions of every 
 kind could be supplied with profusion. On 
 this presumption, I cannot see any apparent ob- 
 stacle, to prevent the completion of the work I 
 have in theory accomplished. 
 
 I have fortunately found in the Convent Library 
 
73 
 
 a manuscript History of Chili, which appears to 
 be written with great impartiality: it does not say 
 that it was ever published, at least not here, though 
 it might in Old Spain : but, be that as it may, this 
 manuscript will give, I think, a perfect knowledge 
 of the people, for whom I am so much interested, 
 and convince you I am not led away by an ignis 
 fatuus. I will make as good a translation of the 
 most material parts as I possibly can. I only wish 
 I had found it sooner, lest I should be prevented 
 from taking it to my room ; for there is no possi- 
 bility of writing in the library, there being con- 
 stantly one or other of the Fathers passing in and 
 out, though not to study; there is no occasion for that 
 at present for although the community is very 
 numerous, I have noticed but three of the Bro- 
 thers who appear to reflect at all : one of them 
 appears melancholy in the extreme, and is sel- 
 dom seen but at the hours when his presence 
 is an essential duty. I have never met him 
 but once in the Garden, and then he hurried 
 from me as if afraid I should accost him : there is 
 something in his manner still more mysterious 
 than that of the truly unhappy Father Savedro, of 
 the Holy Trinity, whose history I would fain 
 give you; but I pledged my honour to remain 
 silent, till, as he expressed himself, the short 
 span between him and eternity was terminated 
 for ever. I am very anxious to hear from him, 
 
74 
 
 which I have not done for these last four months. 
 Should he have reached his ardently-desired ha- 
 ven, I shall rejoice; for then I am certain he is 
 at rest. I shall regard it as the peculiar kindness 
 of Heaven, to recall his suffering spirit, to enjoy 
 a reward for all the unmerited miseries he has 
 experienced on earth. 
 
 Another messenger is arrived from Lima, and 
 our Superior is summoned to attend the Bishop. 
 His Lordship's Chancellor, Chaplain, and Secre- 
 tary, have been here for the last three hours in 
 close council with the Elders of the House, and 
 are called upon in great haste to attend with our 
 Superior. Adieu. 
 
LETTER XL 
 
 I HAVE been endeavouring all this morning, to 
 gain some kind of intelligence respecting the 
 messenger of yesterday, but nothing can I obtain. 
 I have rambled over half the city, been to the 
 town-house, entered several of the offices, where 
 all wore the aspect of bustle and confusion, but 
 all were mute. I was therefore confined to ob- 
 servation only, a novice not being permitted to 
 ask any questions. Tired and vexed, I returned to 
 my convent, and with the good Father Pablo 
 passed an hour in improving conversation, which 
 was interrupted by the refectory bell summoning 
 to dinner. As soon as I withdrew, I hastened to 
 the library, and fortunately succeeded in obtain- 
 ing the manuscript history, and, to do away my 
 chagrin, I set about the translation. 
 
 Thus then my Author : 
 
 1 HE Kingdom of Chili commences about the 
 twenty-fifth degree of south latitude, and is the last 
 and most remote of all the Spanish conquests. It 
 
76 
 
 extends in length five hundred leagues, is bounded 
 by the straits of Magellan, which reaches to 
 the fifty-ninth degree; but its breadth is not ade- 
 quate to its length, not being more than thirty 
 leagues, from the coast to the boundaries of the 
 Cordillera Nevada. But as the province of Cuyo, 
 on the eastern side of the mountains, was by his 
 Majesty's command added to the kingdom of 
 Chili, its breadth may be considered as extending 
 one hundred and fifty leagues east and west, com- 
 posed of vast plains running in a parallel line 
 the whole length of Chili : the Snowy Moun- 
 tains serving as a partition wall to divide those 
 kingdoms. Their longest day is fourteen hours, 
 on the feast of St. Luke, and the shortest on that 
 of St. Barnaby. Chili Proper, except in the 
 opposition of the seasons, is almost in all respects 
 similar to Europe, it being spring and summer in 
 one, when it is autumn and winter in the other. 
 In one particular it has the advantage, as 
 neither the heat nor the cold are ever in extremes : 
 an even temperature being experienced, especially 
 from thirty-six degrees : so that day or night you 
 have no occasion to complain of heat. Another bless- 
 ing peculiar to Chili, is, that it is not subject to 
 thunder and lightning as at Cuyo ; neither are there 
 any sudden storms of hail and rain, or cloudy days ; 
 for whenever it rains, which is sometimes for two 
 or three days or weeks together, as soon as the rain 
 
77 
 
 subsides, the sky appears as serene and clear as if 
 no rain had fallen: for the instant the north wind 
 ceases, and the south begins to blow, 'all clouds are 
 dispersed and driven with rapidity away. Among 
 other inviting peculiarities of this country, not 
 a venomous reptile lives there; so that you may 
 walk, or even sleep in the woods and gardens, 
 without the least fear of being bit by either snake 
 or viper, or any other dangerous reptile. Nor 
 in the forests or caves do there inhabit any 
 ferocious animals, such as tigers, hyenas, or 
 panthers: there is known only a very small species 
 of lion, and of those but few, who are never 
 known to attack man ; and if ever they do any 
 mischief, it is confined to depredations on the 
 wild goats, that live altogether in the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 All these blessings are the more wonderful 
 when it is known, that, they are not possessed by 
 the provinces of Cuyo, Buenos Ayres and Tucu- 
 man, though in the same latitude as Chili. The 
 climate of these three provinces is almost the re- 
 verse of Chili, although there is only the Cor- 
 dillera Nevada between them. In winter they 
 have not any rain, but a clear and serene sky; 
 not a cloud to be seen; and, at the same time, 
 the frost may be so severe, that it frequently kills 
 both man and beast, who may be exposed by 
 night to its inclemency : but as soon as the 
 
78 
 
 spring begins, the rain, although the showers do not 
 last so long as those in Chili, is so sudden and im- 
 petuous, that, in the space of an hour the whole 
 country is covered with water like a sea. These 
 sudden showers are always accompanied with 
 thunder and hail, of the most terrifying nature; 
 the hail-stones being of such a size as to destroy, 
 and bury every thing within its reach. This 
 great difference in the climate and weather 
 is produced or found, in the mountains, invaria- 
 bly on the eastern side; keeping Chili in a state 
 of even tranquillity, where the seasons are steady 
 and constant: every season has its accustomed 
 state of heat and cold, wind or rain, in con- 
 formity to the length or shortness of the days, 
 and the course of the sun, which causes the same 
 changes as in Europe, reversing the months, as 
 the spring begins here in the middle of August, 
 and ends the middle of November; then com- 
 mences the summer which lasts till the middle of 
 of February ; then autumn closes in the middle of 
 May: winter then succeeds, when the trees are 
 stripped of the leaves, and a white frost covers 
 the ground during the night, but it seldom 
 remains four and twenty hours. It is very rare 
 to have any snow in the valleys, as it seldom 
 descends lower than the mountain on which it 
 rests till spring, when it is gradually dissolved 
 by the rays of the sun, and descends in brooks 
 
79 
 
 and rivers, refreshing the ground as they pass: 
 the earth then produces the most bounteous crops 
 of various grain, fruit, and herbs. 
 
 The valleys, in the neighbourhood of the Cor- 
 dillera, are subject to the cold and piercing 
 winds, that issue from these wonderful barriers, 
 which are at times almost insupportable : but as 
 you descend towards the coast, the air becomes tem- 
 perate, being meliorated by the sea breezes. These 
 winds from the mountains would be more severely 
 felt, were they not checked in their progress, by 
 very thick woods, that serve for fuel to the in- 
 habitants of the city of St. Jago, and indeed to all 
 the country. These woods have the appearance 
 of oak at a distance ; but they consist of a very 
 beautiful tree to look upon, more durable than 
 oak, and of a deep red colour. It grows in 
 
 t 
 
 abundance round St. Jago, where no other fuel 
 is made use of; although there are numerous 
 groves of oak, yet the natives make use of the 
 other in preference. The oaks, as well as fruit 
 trees, lose their leaves in winter, as in Europe ; yet 
 there are many other kind of trees in the valleys, 
 that retain their verdure even when covered with 
 frozen snow ; yet as soon as the spring appears, 
 and the rain falls, they emerge from their cover- 
 ing, as if they had just put on the most delightful 
 verdure ; and had been beholden to the ice 
 and snow for their new apparel. So it is with 
 the grass and the herbs of the field ; for in about 
 
80 
 
 three or four weeks after the spring begins, and 
 the rain falls, the fields appear overspread with all 
 the most delightful produce of nature ; every bless- 
 ing of life seems to struggle which shall offer the 
 greatest abundance: innumerable flowers grow 
 in the pastures, as also flowering shrubs, and aro- 
 matic herbs, on which the cattle delight to 
 browse ; and, turn your eye which way soever 
 you will, the fields appear as so many gardens. 
 The fields are not enclosed as in Europe; each 
 inhabitant marks out what spot he chooses to sow 
 with seed, and there is no one will say you tres- 
 pass on my ground; nor is there any tax to be 
 paid. All is free, and the cattle rove unmolested ; 
 they are taught when young to come to their 
 owner when he wants them, by making use of 
 a particular sound or w histle, each person having 
 their own, to which they are very obedient. Thus 
 plenty surrounds the husbandman, for he who 
 sows, is always certain of reaping: in Chili his 
 hopes are never disappointed. The wild flowers 
 which grow in the field, would, from their beauty 
 and sweet scents, be highly valued in Europe, as 
 the superior ornaments of our gardens and con- 
 servatories ; while they are here in such profusion, 
 that they are distilled in vast quantities, and pro- 
 duce the perfumed water, called angels' water, 
 used in the churches. 
 
 In the gardens are to be seen in spring, all 
 kinds of shrubs and flowers that are natives of 
 
81 
 
 other climates, as well as that of Chili, and par- 
 ticularly of Europe, are of the most luxuriant 
 growth. All exotics become, as it were, imme- 
 diately naturalized: and such is the fertility of the 
 soil, that its produce is infinite, and the rapidity 
 of it would be incredible to all but the eye that 
 beholds it. The grass grows to a surprising 
 height, and the mustard rises into a tree. There 
 are groves of these trees, in which the birds build 
 their nests ; they are seldom less than twelve feet 
 high, and branchy in proportion ; thus verifying the 
 description of the Gospel. But the mustard is not 
 the only plant that grows wild ; all sorts of escu- 
 lent roots and herbs that are reared with care in Eu- 
 rope, in gardens, are seen for leagues together, in 
 the greatest profusion, furnishing food for the 
 cattle, who feed on them at pleasure. Such food 
 makes all kind of meat so much more rich and 
 strengthening, as well as of a finer flavour than 
 the animal meats of any other province. 
 
 Nor is Chili less gifted with all kinds of me- 
 dicinal plants and herbs, but the knowledge of 
 whose virtues is confined to the Indian doctors, 
 who are very skilful in their application. The 
 knowledge of them they keep most carefully con- 
 cealed from the Spaniards ; but notwithstanding 
 their precaution, we have obtained the discovery 
 of several of them by dint of observation and ex- 
 perience ; particularly the famous one named 
 
Quimbamali. It is a dwarf plant which rises about 
 eight or ten inches above the ground, with spread- 
 ing branches, each ending in small flowers at 
 the point, which, both in colour and shape, re- 
 semble those of saffron : when wanted for use, 
 they pull up the plant and boil it entire, with its 
 roots, leaves, and flowers, in spring- water: the 
 decoction is given to the patient to drink hot, 
 and is a powerful interior as well as exterior vul- 
 nerary. In all cases of internal bruises or wounds, 
 it causes an instant evacuation of all blood that 
 is congealed ; which, by remaining in the body, 
 might cause inflammation, obstruction, and final- 
 ly death; but a draught of this not only cures in- 
 ternally, but external wounds are alike healed 
 by it. There is another called Albaquella. It 
 grows in bushes, as high as the tallest rose-tree, 
 with leaves like sweet basil, which are very fra- 
 grant, and sweet to the taste, like honey: it is com- 
 monly bruised for use, and in cases of wounds, 
 some of the juice is dropped into the part, 
 and the bruised leaves laid over, which, without 
 any other application, never fails to effect a cure in 
 a very short time. This herb grows wild, and is to 
 be met with almost every where. Another much 
 spoken of but not so common, is a specific for fevers 
 and pleurisies. It is a small herb, low on the 
 ground, with not more than six or eight leaves ; in 
 the middle of which grows a small tuft, like he 
 
83 
 
 * 
 
 finest thread or hair, of a white colour, inclining 
 to yellow; the tuft only is made use of boiled in 
 spring-water. I have only mentioned these 
 among the great number of medicinal herbs, with 
 which this country abounds, because they are the 
 only ones of which 1 could speak from actual 
 experience* 
 
 I shall proceed now to give a brief account 
 of the trees, some of which do not exceed in size 
 those of Europe, of the same kind ; as the cherry, 
 quince, pomegranate, almond, orange, olive, lemon, 
 apricot, citron, peach, and many others; but 
 for apple trees, I have frequently seen them as 
 big and tall as elms of a large size, and pear 
 trees still bigger, and much more the mulberiy, 
 which grows to a surprising height and bigness. 
 All these trees have been brought from Europe, 
 and their increase is really wonderful. Ame- 
 rica is also obliged to Europe for bread corn, 
 maize being the only grain known to the Indians 
 before the Spaniards came among them: also wine 
 they knew not, but will indulge in it to excess 
 when they can procure it. The trees natural to 
 the country, are of two sorts ; one is fruit trees, 
 the other not : of the first, I find only three sorts 
 or species, which are the avellanos, a small nut, 
 the pine tree, and the algarrobos, or cod tree. 
 Of those that are not properly fruit trees, are tie 
 laurel, die oak, the willow which grows vt-ry 
 
 o2 
 
84 
 
 large, as does the cypress still larger, and in 
 such abundance, that they are constantly em- 
 ployed in buildings of every kind, as in fine work 
 for domestic use. These trees grow most com- 
 monly in the precipices of the Cordilleras, which 
 being very deep, cause them to grow extreme- 
 ly large and tall, as they shoot up till their tops 
 can be warmed by the sun ; so that they are as 
 straight as a wax candle, and are so fragrant, 
 that though they are so plentiful they bear a good 
 price. The cedar trees are without comparison, 
 bigger and have much larger heads than the 
 cypress trees. The colour of the tree is red, 
 when it is first worked, but in time loses the 
 bright lively colour, and becomes nearly "brown, 
 Theplanks are in general sawed of the samebreadth 
 and length as those of the cypress : Besides, they are 
 not so subject to worm, and much more easy to 
 work. The oaks also yield very large planks, 
 for they thrive exceedingly, arid grow very thick: 
 some of them are white, but they speedily 
 decay, while those which are red are incorrup- 
 tible. The Paraguay tree is of less value : it is 
 very branchy, keeping its leaves green all the year, 
 and very much resembling our European elms. 
 The most common wood of all, and that of which 
 there is the greatest plenty, and most generally 
 used in building, is the cinnamon wood. These 
 are also very large trees, and make a beautiful 
 
85 
 
 appearance ; they keep their leaves all the year, 
 and much resemble those that in Italy are called 
 the laurel royal. The Guaya tree is peculiar to 
 the mountains of the Cordillera, which is sup- 
 posed from them to derive its hardness and 
 heaviness ; it is like iron, and the balls made of 
 it to play at billiards are as hard as the ivory ones. 
 The tree is not large, and the heart of the wood 
 is a yellow mixed with green ; a decoction of this 
 wood is good for many infirmities. The sandal tree 
 is very odoriferous, and there are great quantities 
 of them in the island of Juan Fernandez. It is 
 used like camphor, as a preservative against the 
 plague or epidemic fevers, and is always worn 
 by the confessors, and all those who are obliged 
 to attend infected persons. There are many other 
 trees, of admirable medicinal virtues, with which 
 the Indians perform wonderful cures. 
 
 The fruit trees in the mountains are many, and 
 of great variety. We will speak first of that truly 
 valuable and beautiful tree the palm, which for 
 its abundant blessings in its fruit claims our first 
 notice, as first in value: they grow generally upon 
 the mountains and precipices in which they 
 delight, and so thick together, that seeing them 
 at a distance, one would think they were a clump 
 set by hand : they are very thick and high, and the 
 body is free from branches or leaves, to the top 
 or first sprout: its nature is to lose all its first 
 
86 
 
 branches, as the young ones come out ; by which 
 means, the body of the tree, rising free and dis- 
 incumbered from all boughs, which in other trees 
 grow on the side, is totally employed in feeding 
 the top, and the fruit within it, bearing as it 
 were a citadel round it, to preserve it by the ad- 
 mirable texture of its leaves and branches, which 
 enclose it round. 
 
 These palm trees have this wonderful property, 
 that none of them will yield fruit, unless, as 
 it were, in sight of each other: and if it happen 
 that one comes up alone, without a companion, 
 although it grows large, and attains a great 
 height, yet it never bears unless another be planted 
 near it. I have seen this experiment tried fre- 
 quently and never knew it fail : the fruit of these 
 trees is called cocoa, and is something like a 
 filbert, though much bigger, and the meat with- 
 in the shell is not solid but hollow, growing round 
 the inner edge, to the thickness of a crown piece; 
 and within it is a kind of milk or water, of an ex- 
 cellent cooling taste, and so is the meat, which 
 is white, and serves to preserve the liquor like a 
 phial, and which is not imbibed by the cocoa in 
 less than some months; but then they will keep 
 as 'almond and other kernels. Many authors 
 say, that this cocoa is good against poison ; and 
 nature seems to set a peculiar value on it, by the 
 many covers in which it is involved: first, the 
 
87 
 
 kernel is covered with a shell harder than thai 
 of the almond; then succeeds another cover, of 
 a green colour and sometimes yellow, which is 
 woven so close about it, that, when it is green, 
 it is easier to break it than peel it off. The fruit 
 grows close to a stalk, which sometimes will 
 have above a thousand on it; and this surrounded 
 by a great shell, which increases with the great 
 bunch it contains, till at last the fruit bursts from 
 its enclosure, which opens into two parts, re- 
 sembling boats, each of above half a yard long, 
 and two spans diameter in the broadest place. The 
 bunch within, is of a fine yellow very beautiful 
 to look on: it hangs on the branches till it is 
 ripe, and then falls to the ground, where it is 
 gathered, and great quantities of it is sent to 
 Peru. Our people also make sweetmeats of 
 them, and also various playthings for the chil- 
 dren. 
 
 The palm trees which bear dates do not seem to 
 be natural to this country, but were brought 
 from abroad, as I never saw them wild in the 
 fields, but only in gardens. There are other 
 wild fruit trees which grow in the fields, and are 
 called Penga: they bear a red fruit, something 
 bigger and more oval than filberts. These the 
 Indians eat boiled, with other ingredients, in 
 strong soup. There are also trees called Magues , 
 which are very beautiful, and are of a very cooling 
 
88 
 
 nature ; the leaves are admirable to cure a burn, 
 and the fruit is black, like a myrtle berry, and is 
 well tasted ; it blackens the mouth and hands 
 when it is eaten, and, for that reason the higher 
 people do not often use it. There are also fruits of 
 which the Indians make their fermented liquors, 
 whose names and properties I cannot recollect, 
 but, I know there is a great variety of them : one, 
 indeed, I remember, called Queler; the fruit is very 
 sweet, and small, between red and yellow, of which 
 they make a very pleasant drink. They make an- 
 other beverage, of what they call Hurgan, and the 
 Spaniards Molle : it is of a shape and colour like 
 pepper; the tree on which they grow is but small, 
 but is a great bearer: this drink is very agreeable 
 and coveted by the greatest ladies. The most com- 
 mon beverage of the Indians, is made of maize, 
 which is the ordinary bread and sustenance of all 
 the natives, The last I recollect, is the tree called 
 Mirtilla, which, if we believe the authors who treat 
 of it, deserves to be ranked in the first place; 
 this is what they say of it. This tree grows 
 in the mountains, from seventy-two degrees up- 
 wards, and is the common food : the natives call it 
 Une, and the Spaniards Mirtilla ; it is red and like 
 a small grape, and in shape and colour, like a 
 pomegranate seed ; it smells and tastes very agreea- 
 bly, and notunlike a grape ; it has small grains like 
 a fig, which arealmost imperceptible on the tongue. 
 
89 
 
 Its temperature is hard and dry : of this they 
 make a wine, which exceeds all other liquors, 
 even that of the East India cocoa or palm tree. 
 Neither cider, mead, nor beer, nor all the other 
 drinks, described by Andreas de Laquana, are to 
 be compared to it. This wine is clear, fine, warm, 
 and very agreeable to the taste, as well as strength- 
 ening to the stomach. It consumes all vapours in 
 the head ; its heat warming the ears without going 
 any further. It increases the appetite, never 
 offending the head or making it heavy. Those 
 who have tasted it highly commend its colour 
 and flavour, as much as that of grapes. Its colour 
 is golden and bright, and is as good and sweet as 
 the wine of Ciuidad Real. There is little of it 
 made, and thus it lasts but a short time ; for which 
 reason, 'tis not known how many years it would 
 keep : it takes up as much labour, and care as 
 wine in the making. If it is left to itself and 
 without fire, 'tis forty days before it ferments ; 
 it casts down a lee, and works out the frothy part 
 at the top of the vessel, and for that reason care 
 is taken to scum it as it rises ; and when it ceases, 
 'tis then drawn off into another vessel, and is fit 
 for use. When 'tis turned to vinegar, it has a 
 better taste and colour than wine vinegar, as it 
 retains the colour and scent of the fruit, which 
 is very odoriferous. Thus far Father Herrera. 
 Hence it may be inferred, that this land had 
 
90 
 
 good wine of its own ; it has also very good oil, 
 made of a seed called Made; 'tis extremely well 
 tasted, but not much in use, because, that of 
 olives is so plentiful. It is not possible to describe 
 all the various sorts of trees, that are common in 
 the woods and mountains of Chili ; there are few of 
 them that do not keep their leaves all winter; parti- 
 cularly those that grow wild, which are, in 
 general, very aromatic, and of a very fragrant 
 smell. All the finest of this kind, are bred in the 
 territory of the Conception, which abounds more 
 with them, than any other. I should not have 
 believed it if I had not seen it; as, in travel- 
 ling, I have passed through the most pleasant, 
 lovely groves, which bordered the highways, 
 and cast out so rich a smell from their leaves, that 
 the flowers of jessamine could not be sweeter. 
 There are abundance of groves of myrtle and 
 laurel which grow wild ; and yet there are among 
 them, trees whose scents exceed them infinitely; 
 for when you pass your hand over the leaves, you 
 would imagine they had been washed with the 
 most costly perfumes. 
 
 After having treated thus much of woods and 
 groves, it behoves me to say something of the 
 feathered inhabitants. To begin with the king 
 of them all, the eagle: there are in all the woods 
 abundance of them, but, those which are called 
 the imperial, have never been seen but twice: 
 
91 
 
 the first, was a short time before the arrival of 
 the Spaniards; and the second time, 1640, 
 when that warlike nation the Araucanos made 
 peace with the Spaniards, and many thousands 
 of them came over from the grossest igno- 
 rance, to embrace the faith of our Holy Church, 
 and submit themselves to God and our King: 
 they interpreting the appearance of these birds, 
 as one of the signs of God Almighty's will, 
 to direct them to embrace the faith of Christ, 
 and Jive in amity with the Spaniards; in conse- 
 quence of which, they with one consent laid 
 down their arms, and became subjects to Spain, 
 as for the ordinary eagles they are and always, 
 have been, numerous. Next to the eagles are the 
 falcons, which for their beauty are caught young, 
 and trained to send as presents to European 
 princes. There is also a great many other sorts 
 of birds of prey. Of the singing birds there is 
 a great variety, and of the same kinds as in 
 Europe: among them I must not omit the robin- 
 red-breast, which is by the Indians held in the 
 highest veneration : they call them Voycas or 
 omen birds: these birds, they imagine by the 
 difference in their notes, always forwarn them of 
 either death or sickness, or any misfortune that 
 is to befal them or their friends; therefore to kill 
 or injure any of these birds, is thought the most 
 heinous crime of which they can be guilty. 
 
92 
 
 The birds for game are garzas, partridges, wild 
 pigeons, thrushes, turtles, and parrots : wild ducks 
 are out of number, of almost every colour, and are 
 excellent food. The domestic tame fowls are all 
 of the same kind as in Europe, such as turkeys, 
 geese, hens, ducks, and tame pigeons, all in the 
 greatest plenty: there are also swallows in summer, 
 that leave us in the winter, for warmer climes 
 as in Europe : there are also screech owls, bats 
 and other night birds. But it is really impossible 
 to describe the native birds, from their wonderful 
 variety, and incredible abundance: indeed, as 
 soon as the grapes begin to ripen they do great 
 mischief, notwithstanding every device is em- 
 ployed, either to catch or fright them away. 
 Every one is indeed obliged, as it were, to mount 
 guard ; for if continual care and vigilance are 
 not observed, they are sure to find the vintage 
 made to their hands. The corn and maize is 
 obliged to be watched, in the same manner as are 
 all garden seeds; for nothing can withstand the 
 voracity of the parrots, who have bills that cut 
 like a razor : they come in flocks, of such an ex- 
 tent as to darken the air, and fill it with such a 
 confusion of cries, that, I know of nothing like 
 it. This kind of bird is bred all over Chili, in 
 the mountains, and in the Cordilleras; 'tis most 
 wonderful to see how exactly they come when 
 the fruit begins to ripen. They come down from 
 
93 
 
 the mountains in the evening, and the noise 
 they make in flying, though they fly high, is 
 such as baffles description. They have a shrill 
 clear voice, and fly all screaming at once : they 
 are green and yellow, have a blue circle about 
 their necks ; and are very good to eat, parti- 
 cularly the young ones. 
 
 As soon as the weather begins to be cool, be- 
 fore the winter sets in, every evening for many 
 days together, great quantities of crows come 
 down from the Cordilleras into the plains, about 
 an hour before sun-set: they arrive in squadrons, 
 forming a triangle, the point of which i led 
 by one single bird ; the figure they make is with 
 exact arrangement to each other, as if they were 
 fixed in the air and immoveable, so equal and well 
 concerted is their flight The arrival of these 
 birds, in this form, is considered by the natives 
 as prognosticating a rainy season. 
 
 There is likewise a bird called taltulas, or 
 galinasos : it is like a duck, but has larger wings ; 
 they are either black or brown and very voracious 
 of carrion : in the time of the annual slaughtering 
 the cattle, these birds come and gorge themselves 
 to that degree, that they cannot rise to fly, so that 
 they are easily killed with sticks in great numbers : 
 they are taken for their quills and the bones of 
 their legs. They sustain themselves at other times 
 by hunting young goats and lambs which they 
 
94 
 
 are very dexterous in catching. There is another 
 bird, of a similar kind both as to bigness, colour, 
 shape, and disposition to prey ; these are called 
 peuques, only they are something less, and more 
 nice in the choice of their food, being pleased 
 with nothing but fowls which they seize upon very 
 adroitly : they are so bold and nimble as to get 
 into a henroost and carry away their prey even 
 insight of the owners, without it being possible to 
 prevent them. Among the many birds which 
 breed in the lakes, waters, and on the sea-side, 
 none are more remarkable than the birds called 
 flamincos ; they are white and scarlet, bigger than 
 turkeys, but so long legged that they will walk 
 through a lake of no great depth, the water not 
 touching their feathers. The Indians make most 
 beautiful cloaks and other ornaments of their 
 white and scarlet feathers, for their dances and 
 feasts. There is another curious bird called the 
 child bird, as it looks like a child wrapt in swad- 
 ling clothes, but I know not its properties. 
 
 There is a most elegant bird called acroves 
 which furnishes the tufts of feathers of that name 
 so highly valued in Europe, as every feather is 
 valued at two, and sometimes three rials ; those 
 that grow under their wings are larger and bet- 
 ter than those on their heads, and form an ai- 
 grette. They are indeed very beautiful, but be- 
 ing very delicate, are not able to endure suddeii 
 

 95 
 
 transitions of weather, by which means they do 
 not increase like others that are more hardy. 
 
 There are plenty of that kind of bird called 
 garcolas, which serve for soldiers' feathers, and 
 various other ornaments. There are many also 
 of a great variety of colours, whose names I know 
 not, and of which the Indians make their mal- 
 lenguas, an ornament for the head like a garland 
 of the finest colours, in the forming of which the 
 Indians shew great taste and judgment. These 
 mallenguas are worn on their days of rejoicing 
 and ceremony, in which they are as punctilious 
 as the most polite nations. There is also a very 
 little bird called pinguedas, whose body is not 
 much bigger than an almond : they live entirely 
 on flowers like bees ; and that they may procure 
 the honey with ease, nature has furnished them 
 with a bill which when shut is like a sewing 
 needle, and this enables them to feed, flying like 
 bees, from flower to flower, without lighting, but 
 very seldom on a branch of it, and that very 
 lightly. These birds are of the greatest beauty 
 imaginable: if they were made of polished gold 
 they could not shine brighter : they are of a green 
 colour mingled with gold : the males are distin- 
 guished from the females, by the feathers on 
 the head being of a bright orange, which fa 
 the suri looks like fire. These birds on the eastern 
 side of the Cordilleras, are still more beautiful, be- 
 cause their tail is of the same colour as their head. 
 
96 
 
 and though they have so small a body, their tail 
 is a foot long and two inches broad. There is 
 likewise a very singular bird which the Spaniards 
 have named puxero carpentero ; because though 
 they are but small, yet they have so strong and 
 sharp a bill that they form their nests with it in 
 the body of the tree, forming a hollow place, fit 
 for them, as if with an instrument : of these I have 
 seen but few. There are great numbers of a bird 
 called condorres, which are as white as snow, and 
 of their skins they make that which they call 
 kegallilos for the hands, being of a very soft touch 
 and extremely warm ; but the bellies of the bus- 
 sards are still more so. I have not seen such a 
 variety of birds on the other side of the Cordilleras, 
 and the cause I suppose to be the dryness of the 
 land in summer, and the want of woods and 
 groves which are on the Chili side ; but in those 
 plains, called the Pampas, the francolins are to be 
 found, which are a sort of wild hen, and as big ; 
 but much better meat and of a higher relish. 
 
 There are likewise ostriches in great num- 
 bers. It is not easy to catch the ostrich by hunt- 
 ing with dogs, which is done sometimes, for, though 
 they do not fly, yet their large wings aid them so 
 powerfully in running, that though the greyhound 
 be very swift, if the bird has the start he will hard- 
 ly be able to overtake him : if however he comes 
 up to him, it is wonderful the art the ostrich uses 
 
97 
 
 to avoid his teeth, for when the dog is just going 
 to seize the bird, he lets down one of his wings and 
 fixes it to the ground, covering therewith his 
 whole body ; when the greyhound seizing the 
 wing, fills his mouth with feathers, which so dis- 
 composes him as to interrupt his pursuit, and 
 the ostrich generally escapes. This is very di- 
 verting sport, as is that of taking the Francolins, 
 which is thus effected. The Indian has a string, 
 made at one end into a running noose, and, 
 at the other, a little piece of sharp cane fastened 
 to it. When he has found the bird, he draws 
 near so gently as not to fright it : when at a 
 proper distance, he begins to go round the bird, 
 making with the cane at the same time several cir- 
 cles over its head. The Francolin is by nature 
 very timorous, and so simple, that he never at- 
 tempts to rise, as he thinks himself encompassed 
 round, but goes into the middle of the circle, where 
 the Indian lessening his rounds, he squats down 
 and quietly lets the Indian put the noose over its 
 head ; which done, he touches one of the wings 
 with the sharp end of the cane, when it flies 
 up, by which means the noose is drawn close and 
 the bird taken. There is also another very divert- 
 ing sport which consists in hunting the quultim 
 with falcons. These are as big as fowls, and have 
 very large wings, of which every joint is clothed 
 with sharp points, given them by nature for 
 
98 
 
 their defence. The Spaniards call these birds friars; 
 either because they are always seen two and two, 
 or three and three, together, or because the colour 
 and order of their feathers is such that you would 
 really think they had on a hood and a frock. 
 This sport requires more than one falcon, and 
 they must be well taught to assist one another : 
 there are, frequently, large parties to witness 
 the fight, which is well worth seeing. These 
 birds generally haunt low meadows or swampy 
 ground ; and as soon as one is sprung, the sports- 
 man lets fly his falcon after him ; who, as if he 
 noticed not his game, endeavours to get as high 
 as he can, that he may get the wind of his prey, 
 which, at the same time, does the same thing and 
 contends for place with his enemy, so that they 
 both get sometimes nearly out of sight : at last 
 the falcon, having the stronger wing, generally 
 gets the advantage, and as soon as he finds himself 
 high enough, he darts down upon his antagonist 
 like lightning, when the fight begins ; when the 
 quultim, in a masterly manner, either avoids the 
 blow, or opposes the armed points of his wings, 
 and the falcon is often wounded in the breast : 
 as soon as the sportsman finds his falcon wounded, 
 he lets fly another to help the first, who being 
 fresh soon joins his companion, and immediately 
 attacks the quultim, but not at the same time with 
 the other falcon. Thus one gives him a blow and 
 
99 
 
 then the other ; but notwithstanding such unequal 
 odds, the quultim makes a noble defence, till, tired 
 out, he rapidly descends to the water, his last de- 
 fence, to save his life ; here he expects his enemies 
 on his back with the points of his armed wings 
 turned towards them : the falcon darts down 
 with all his force, and with one foot tears her to 
 pieces, but he does not effect this without being 
 severely wounded himself : the victory in general 
 costs the falcon dear, especially when the enemy 
 happens to be large, as he is a bird of great 
 strength. 
 
 The manner of catching the falcon is likewise 
 very diverting. Very fine nets are spread at cer- 
 tain places where he is supposed to haunt or roost ; 
 when the hunters raise a loud peculiar cry, and 
 rush forward, which, disturbing the falcon, he 
 attempts to fly but is instantly secured, the net 
 being close and fine that he may not injure 
 his wings, which should it happen, he then can be 
 of no service for sporting, and is either killed or 
 let fly. 
 
 We shall now proceed to give some account of 
 the animals. Till the Spaniards came to America 
 there never had been seen either cows, horses, 
 sheep, hogs, cats or rabbits, either tame or wild, 
 nor dogs, except those called coques ; but no 
 hounds, greyhounds, or other game dogs, neither 
 mastiffs nor lap dogs, nor goats nor asses. But as 
 
100 
 
 soon as the Spaniards were settled in Chili, and 
 found the land so very proper for breeding cattle 
 and flocks, they soon brought some of every kind 
 here ; and they have increased to such a surprising 
 degree, that there is not only enough for ten times 
 the population, but to feed tens of thousands of 
 carnivorous birds, who come regularly in slaugh- 
 tering time to devour what is left in the fields ; 
 and what they leave untouched, is obliged tojbe 
 burnt or thrown into the rivers, that it may not 
 corrupt the air. The murrain among cattle, so 
 much dreaded in Europe, is here thought a ne- 
 cessary evil, in order to rid the country of too 
 great an abundance. This may seem a paradox, 
 but it is founded upon experience to be a fact ; 
 the land being so good the cattle are fatted in 
 such a short time as is scarcely credible. This 
 may be believed when it is a certain fact, that 
 scarcely any cow is killed which does not produce 
 from a hundred and fifty to near two hundred 
 pounds of tallow, each pound of sixteen ounces ; 
 so that it is difficult to get a sale for it, as well as for 
 the hides : for though Peru, where the best part 
 of the consumption is made, is so very considera- 
 ble, yet the plenty we have here is so great that 
 we could easily supply another Peru, and still 
 have an abundance. 
 
 For some time after the first settlement of the 
 Spaniards in Chili, a horse was commonly sold 
 
101 
 
 for a thousand pieces of eight, and sometimes 
 more. Garcellosa says, so high a value was set 
 upon them in Peru, that a horse could not be 
 had for any price, unless by the death of the 
 owner, or upon his returning to Spain ; when 
 horses were sold for four, five and six thousand 
 pieces of eight each. He says, he knew himself 
 a soldier that had an excellent horse and a negro, 
 going by with him : a gentleman who saw them, 
 sent to offer the soldier ten thousand pieces of 
 eight for the horse and the negro, which he re- 
 fused with contempt. But since that time horses 
 have multiplied so prodigiously, that there is not 
 people enough to feed arid tend them, therefore 
 many of them run wild. The cows have also in- 
 creased so as to cover the fields, and in the vast 
 plains of Tucuman and Buenos Ayres they are in 
 i mmense herds, feeding without any owner but those 
 who choose to catch them. I have seen in Chili, 
 in the territory of St. Jago, horses already dressed 
 for war, sold for two crowns a piece to supply the 
 army, and yet for shape, courage, and good quali- 
 ties, they yield to no Neapolitan, or Andalusian 
 horses I ever saw, from whom indeed they are 
 descended ; and there is no reason why they should 
 degenerate in such good land. 
 
 The cows, which at first were out of all price, 
 I have seen sold for a crown a-piece, and the 
 ealves for half-a-crown ; the sheep are bought 
 
102 
 
 in flocks in Cuyo and Tucuman for three- 
 pence, and three half-pence a-piece. Among the 
 animals proper to the country of Chili, may be 
 considered the sheep, so called by the natives : 
 they are of the shape of camels, but not so big, 
 and without the bunch on the back ; they are 
 black, brown, and white, and some grey. For- 
 merly they used to plough the land with them in 
 many places, instead of oxen, but they only make 
 use of them now to carry wine, wheat, maize, and 
 other provisions. About thirty years ago they 
 used to carry water in St. Jago from the fountains 
 or river to the houses, but now they are not at 
 all employed in this kind of labour, there being 
 so many mules and asses for all domestic 
 uses. These sheep have their upper lip slit, 
 with which they spit, as it were, at those that 
 vex them ; and the children, who used to do it, 
 commonly run away when they see they are about 
 to eject their saliva, for wherever it falls on the 
 skin it causes an inflammation, and their neck be- 
 ing near three feet long they can use these kind 
 of arms with considerable effect. Their wool is 
 very highly valued for its delicacy and softness, 
 the handsomest cloaks and mantles, that can 
 be imagined, are made of it. The drivers regu- 
 late their motions by a kind of bridle passed 
 through holes made in their ears, which, by pull- 
 ing the reins, govern their movements : they 
 
103 
 
 kneel down to be loaded, and when it is well fas- 
 tened, they rise without bidding, and move on in 
 a very grave, steady pace. 
 
 There are likewise natural to Chili, little 
 animals of the rabbit kind, which the Indians 
 call Pegus, and of them they make a very nice 
 kind of soup, of which they are extremely 
 fond : they are wild, and the taking of them 
 affords very good sport. There are another sort 
 of little rabbits, which the Indians call Cuyes, 
 and are tame : they are delicate little creatures, 
 very prettily spotted with various colours; and are 
 seen in great plenty in the houses or yards; some- 
 times, indeed, they live in the gardens. The animals 
 called Guanacos, chamois or wild goats, are very 
 like the country sheep, as well in their shape as 
 motions, but they are of a different colour, being 
 of a clear red, and so very wild they never 
 can be tamed. They herd in large flocks on the 
 plains of Tucuman and Cuyo, have very long 
 legs, and are so swift of foot, that the best 
 horse cannot overtake them ; yet it is easy 
 to kill the young ones, or those that have not 
 been hunted, because, being so tall and their 
 bones not yet well set, they are easily tired; 
 so by following a flock of them on horse- 
 back with dogs, the young, unable to keep 
 up with their dams, are easily taken, as they 
 have nothing but their speed to depend upon. 
 
104 
 
 These creatures breed, in a bag they have 
 under the belly, the bezoar stones, so much 
 celebrated for their virtue and admirable qualities, 
 in all cases of poison, malignant fevers, and 
 nervous affections. These animals eat from in- 
 stinct to cure themselves, when bit by any veno- 
 mous creature, or have eaten of any poisonous 
 herb. These stones are found in the oldest 
 guanacos, and the reason is, that, their natural 
 heat not being so strong as that of the young 
 ones, they cannot convert into their substance all 
 the strength of the herb they take, to remedy 
 their complaint; nature therefore has provided, 
 that what remains, shall be deposited in the bag, 
 and there be converted into a substance, capable 
 of administering to the human frame the same 
 cures it does to the animal. The stone is com- 
 posed of several coats, some thicker, some thinner, 
 according to the quantity of the herbs taken by 
 the animal at a time. It has been constantly 
 observed, that where there are most vipers and 
 other poisonous creatures, these stones are most 
 plentiful ; and the cause is manifest, because 
 these animals, arid the deer kind in feeding, 
 traverse over a great space of ground, therefore 
 are the more exposed to the attacks of poisonous 
 animals, which when trod upon or disturbed 
 sting severely. When they find themselves hurt 
 by a reptile, they make directly to the remedy, 
 
105 
 
 which they never fail to find ; and as they 
 have more frequently occasion to seek relief 
 in these herbs, by being more often hurt in the 
 plains of Cuyo and Tucuman, than in Chili, it 
 is easily accounted for, why these stones should 
 be found in greater quantities than in any 
 other part, where they are accustomed to herd. 
 Another consideration is, that the guanacos de- 
 light more in plains than high land, and there 
 are by far more poisonous creatures and herbs in 
 these two provinces, by being so very extensive, 
 and having in summer such very great heats, in 
 which all reptiles delight; but nature, in her 
 gracious bounty, has scattered every where, with 
 a liberal hand, an immediate antidote for every 
 poison. Were it not, indeed, for such instinct im- 
 planted in the animal world, the whole race 
 might become extinct, by the poisons, either 
 animal or vegetable, which they are constantly 
 encountering. 
 
 The bigness of these stones is in proportion 
 to the animal that breeds them: the most certain 
 rule is, that if they are small there are many in 
 the bag, and fewer if large, and at times, when very 
 large, there is but one. 1 carried with me to Italy 
 one that weighed thirty-two ounces; but it was 
 not the size that rendered it the more valuable, 
 but its virtues and shape, for it was a perfect oval, 
 as if it had been formed by a turner. The 
 
106 
 
 Indian who found it had seventy pieces of eight. 
 When a large stone is found it is not sold by weight, 
 but according to general estimation: and the 
 bigger they are, the greater the price : people of 
 quality will buy them at any price, for they not 
 only use them in cases of sickness, but make use 
 of them as preventives. 
 
 The way of using them, is to put them whole 
 into a vase of wine or water, or into the 
 glass, out of which you constantly drink ; and the 
 longer they remain in it, the more virtue they 
 communicate : this is the general way of using 
 them by those in health : but when attacked by 
 any violent sickness, you should grate off about 
 a small spoonful, and take it in any kind of 
 liquid that may be most agreeable ; when it never 
 fails to relieve the patient in all cases of poison, 
 in a very short time. 
 
 Hares are also bred in the Pampas, or the 
 plains of Cuyo, and one kind in particular 
 named chirichinchos, whose flesh tastes like that 
 of sucking pigs, is much sought after, for the 
 delicious dish it makes ; they are taken in pit- 
 falls by the Indians, who watch at a distance till 
 the sun goes down, when these hares are sure to 
 be seen hunting out, with great haste, a small 
 plant, like trefoil, on which they commonly feed : 
 this herb with its root, the Indians place on the 
 top of the pit; when seeing the herbage it is 
 
107 
 
 in quest of, it springs forward, and the suddenness 
 of the leap, causes the trap to give way, and the 
 animal is taken. 
 
 Squirrels are not numerous in Chili : I do 
 not recollect seeing them in any other place than 
 the valley of Guasco, and these are grey, or pale 
 ash colour; their skins are very highly valued, 
 on account of the warmth and delicacy of their 
 fur, it being extremely pleasing to the feel. They 
 are caught by placing a sort of balance stick, 
 equally poised, across the branch of a tree, which 
 they are seen to frequent: each end of the stick has 
 some favourite fruit they delight in, placed 
 on it, which as soon as they attempt to take off, 
 the stick drops downwards, taking the squirrel 
 with it, and falling into a basket properly placed 
 to receive it, and a net very close worked, closes 
 him in a moment. This mode of taking them is 
 practised, in order that the skin might not be 
 rubbed, or otherwise injured, which must be the 
 case, were they to shoot or knock them down : 
 their scarcity renders them extremely dear. 
 
 There are not any rats or mice in Chili, but on 
 the coast. These are supposed to have been 
 brought in a Dutch ship, that was wrecked there 
 some few years ago, as none of these animals 
 were ever seen there before. Thus, I have given as 
 good an account as possible of the animals of Chili 
 which have fallen under my own observation. 
 
108 
 
 Of the Summer and Autumn, with their Products. 
 
 THE summer begins in the middle of Novem- 
 ber, and lasts to the middle of February, so that 
 the greatest heats are at Ch/istmas and we are 
 here ready to melt beneath their influence. About 
 this time the fruits begin to ripen, and are in 
 great variety, for we have all those of Europe: 
 The fruit that exceeds all the rest for bearing is 
 the apple, of all kinds of which there are 
 orchards of most surprising extent, which never 
 fail to yield astonishing quantities; for although 
 they pluck vast numbers of the young trees, yet 
 the remainder increase so much in size, that 
 they presently weigh down the branches, which 
 are propped up with stout forks of wood, to prevent 
 their falling, to do hurt to the accidental pas- 
 senger. As for the fruit of the gardens it is 
 never sold, but any person may go into a gar- 
 den and eat what they please, without the least 
 obstruction. Strawberries are the only scarce 
 fruit, and the only one that is attended to more 
 than another, they are very large, many of them 
 being near four inches long, and three broad: 
 they are of three colours, red, white, and yellow. 
 At the end of autumn the grape harvest begins, 
 as does the making of wine, of a most generous 
 
109 
 
 / 
 
 kind. There is such vast store of grapes, that 
 a far greater quantity of wine is made than can be 
 disposed of: the Indians drink it to excess, for 
 when they once begin, they never leave off till 
 they drop down, and some of them never to get 
 tip more: the wine being so very strong, the 
 fumes overpower the brain in such a manner, 
 that they are not unfrequently stifled by it. The 
 best kind is the muscatel, which, though it looks 
 nearly like water, yet in the stomach it is like 
 brandy; these white wines are much esteemed, 
 as are those of the grapes, called uva torrontos, 
 and alvilla; the red and deep-scented wines are 
 made of the ordinary red grape, and the one called 
 mo] las. The bunches of the latter are most com- 
 monly so very large, as to be almost beyond belief; 
 we had one brought to our convent last year, as 
 a present from a gentleman to the shrine of our 
 lady, which was so big as to fill of itself a large 
 basket, and fed the whole of the brothers for that 
 meal, and they were pretty numerous, our com- 
 munity being the largest in St. Jago. The 
 branches of these vines are stout, and the body of 
 great thickness; they are not trained upwards 
 as in Europe, but are suffered to run along the 
 ground. 
 
 The riches of Chili are of two sorts: first, 
 those which nature has bestowed on it, without 
 the help of human industry, and, secondly, those 
 
no 
 
 which have been produced by the inhabitants. 
 To the first belong its mines of gold, silver, cop- 
 per, tin, quicksilver, and lead. Of the copper 
 of Chili, are made all the great guns for Peru, 
 and the neighbouring kingdoms, in the garrisons 
 of which, and in particular on the coast, are great 
 quantities always in store. All the bells of the 
 churches, and family utensils, are of this metal ; 
 so that, since the working of these mines, no 
 copper has come from Spain, they being so rich 
 in vein, there is more than enough to supply all 
 the kingdoms of the Indians. There is little 
 lead worked, and quicksilver less, because the 
 mines are but lately discovered: for as they were 
 going to work them, the obstacle to the work- 
 ing of those of Guancabilica, in Peru, was re- 
 moved, which put a stop to the working of those 
 in Chili. Those of silver likewise lie unwrought, 
 because the golden ones are worked -with much 
 less charge; therefore, every body concerned in 
 the mines turns their industry to them. They 
 are so many and so rich, that, from the confines 
 of Peru, to the straights of Magellan, there is no 
 part of the country, in which they have not been dis- 
 covered by those gentlemen, whom his Majesty 
 was pleased to send out, to examine the moun- 
 tains: and it is generally received, that in all 
 the Indies, no gold is so pure and fine as that 
 
Ill 
 
 of Valdivia, in Chili, except the famous mine of 
 Carabya. 
 
 The gold mines are far more easy to work than 
 the silver, as the silver is first dug out of the 
 hard rock, which is very difficult, as is also the 
 grinding the ore in the mills to powder; then a 
 great expense attends the quicksilver, which 
 must be used in the progress to make it unite, 
 besides thelong operation requisite to refine it, all 
 which causes a great deal of cost and trouble. Thus 
 the advantage of getting gold is evident, as not 
 attended with such variety of labour; for, in 
 most cases, there is no other trouble than to 
 carry the earth, in which it is found, to the water 
 mills constructed on purpose, where a stream is 
 turned on, and carries off the earth, whilst the 
 gold being heavier sinks to the bottom ; this sim- 
 ple process is followed only for the gold found in 
 a loose state, incorporated with the earth. Some- 
 times a vein of pure gold is found in mass, which 
 they are obliged to dig for silver; but this 
 does not always answer the owner's expectation, 
 unless in following the vein through the rocks, 
 they chance to meet a soft part, where the gold 
 vein has power to expand; this they call Boldu, 
 and, whenever met with, sufficiently repays the 
 labour and pains they have been at to obtain it. 
 There is now much less gold found than formerly, 
 by reason of the continued wars the Spaniards 
 
112 
 
 have so long had, with the nation of Auracanos, 
 but still some is found particularly in Jaquimbo. 
 During the winter, when the rains fall heavily, 
 great masses of rock are washed away, and an 
 easy passage is opened to the veins of gold : there 
 is likewise some obtained in the territory of the 
 Conception, but this is found by the Indian wo- 
 men in ponds or small pieces of water, at the 
 foot of a mountain, which is seldom deeper than 
 two or three feet: these ponds the women go into 
 without any thing on their feet, where they keep 
 puddling with their toes till they feel the grains 
 of gold, which they take up perfectly free from 
 sand or dirt of any kind ; and when they 
 have found enough to supply their immediate 
 wants, they seek no further, but retire perfectly 
 satisfied, being not at all a covetous people, like 
 the Spaniards, who never think they can get 
 enough. I brought with me to Italy one of these 
 grains of gold, found in this way of a pretty 
 good size, which 1 sent to Seville to be assayed ; 
 and without putting it in the fire, or any other 
 proof, it was found to be twenty-three carats of 
 very pure gold. 
 
 Now that peace is made with the Auracanos, and 
 these warlike Indians are quiet, the Spaniards 
 will, it is most probable, return to work the 
 Valdivian mines, which are supposed to be very 
 rich. As for the produce made by the industry 
 
113 
 
 of the inhabitants, it is in particular in the breed 
 of their cattle, as I have observed before. 
 
 Tallow, hides, and dried flesh are sent to 
 Lima, where the inhabitants take as much as is 
 requisite for their own district, which is about 
 twenty thousand quintals of tallow every year for 
 that city only, and hides in proportion ; they dis- 
 tribute the remainder all over Peru: the hides in 
 particular are carried to Potosi, and all that inland 
 tract of mines; they are also sent to Panama, Car- 
 thagena, and the rest of that continent : some of this 
 trade extends itself also to Buenos Ayres,Tucuman, 
 and from thence to Brazil. The second, no inconsi- 
 derable product, is the cordage and tackling, with 
 which all the ships of the South Seas are fur- 
 nished ; also the match for the great guns in all 
 the garrisons from Chili. The hemp which 
 makes the first material of all these provisions, 
 grows no where on this continent but in Chili : 
 pack-thread is also exported, and smaller cordage. 
 The third product is mules, which are sent to 
 Potosi, through the desert of Aracama. The 
 fourth product is cocoa-nuts, almonds, and other 
 fruits, which grow not in Peru; these are sent 
 thither to very great advantage by the merchants, 
 so that a single venture is sufficient to set up a 
 young beginner. When I came to Lima, I was 
 surprised to find that anni-seed, which had been 
 bought in Chili for two pieces of eight, sold at 
 
114 
 
 Lima for twenty, and the cummin-seed bought at 
 twenty, was sold at four-score. Such great re- 
 turns, induce merchants to trade thither, in hopes 
 of getting rich in a short time. The gains made by 
 this kind of traffic are so considerable, that a 
 man who has about forty thousand crowns to 
 employ in land, flocks, and slaves to take care of 
 them, may every year have a revenue of ten or 
 twelve thousand crowns; which is a gain of 
 twenty-five per cent, without risking the danger 
 of the seas; but those who will run the hazard 
 of that element, gain much more; for the mer- 
 chants, by many commodities get an hundred 
 and two hundred, and even three hundred per 
 cent, in a navigation of about three weeks, which 
 is the time usually employed in sailing from Chili 
 to Lima, without any absolute danger; for it is 
 very seldom that any storms occur in that voyage, 
 or at least such as might endanger the loss of 
 the ships or cargo. The greatest danger proceeds 
 from the covetousness of the merchants or owners, 
 who, trusting to the calmness of those seas, and 
 sailing all the way from Chili to Lima, before 
 the wind, generally load up to the mid-mast. 
 I have seen them myself, go out of port with pro- 
 vision for the voyage, and other necessaries as 
 high as the ropes, that held the mast: and al- 
 though the king's officers are present to hinder 
 the vessels from being over loaded, yet they are 
 
115 
 
 generally so deeply laden, that the gunnel is 
 scarcely above water ; and yet with all this trade 
 the warehouses are always full of goods, for the 
 country being so prolific, there is always enough 
 left behind to supply another Lima, and another 
 Potosi. It is upon this foundation, the universal 
 opinion has been grounded, that no country in 
 America, has a more solid establishment than 
 Chili: for in proportion to the increase of the 
 inhabitants in Peru, Chili must increase too in 
 riches, since it is able to supply the greatest con- 
 sumption, arid yet have enough for its own popu- 
 lation, in all kinds; as corn, wine, oil, cattle, 
 salt, fruits, vegetables, wool, flax, hides, tallow, 
 chamois leather, ropes, wood and timber, besides 
 metals of all sorts, medicinal drugs, and amber. 
 We have no silk, and it is to be wished it may never 
 come hither, on account of female extravagance ; 
 not but that the country is as well adapted for the 
 cultivation of si Ik- worms, as any part of Old 
 Spain, for the mulberry trees are as fine 
 and much larger, and more plentiful ; therefore 
 should any person bring hither any of the eggs 
 of the silk-worm, I am persuaded they would 
 thrive well, and be more productive than in 
 Spain. The wax likewise comes from Europe, 
 though there does not want bees in Chili, that 
 make both honey and wax; but they are not do- 
 mesticated, and breed only in the woods. All 
 
 i2 
 
116 
 
 the East India spices are imported into Chili, yet 
 there is a spice that would supply the want of 
 them, and there are in the Streights of Magellan, 
 good cinnamon and other trees, that have a very 
 fragrant smell in their bark, which tastes like 
 pepper, but of a more quick flavour. 
 
 In the whole kingdom of Chili the herbage and 
 fishing are in common, as also the hunting ; and the 
 woods supply every one that chooses with timber 
 and fuel, and the same liberty is granted at the 
 salt mines ; every one may take what he pleases. 
 There are no duties on trade throughout the 
 kingdom; every one is free to export or import 
 what he pleases, which enables the merchant to 
 make such great profits on his merchandise : this, 
 added to the facilities of nature, renders Chili the 
 most desirable place for those who wish to mend 
 their fortune by trade and commerce, in the whole 
 world ; and could the merchants or others be 
 brought to live within bounds, they might in a 
 very few years make princely fortunes : but ex- 
 travagance and folly to appear more rich than 
 they really are, makes many beggars, who, with 
 a little economy and foresight, might have been 
 in reality what they pretended to be; but it is no 
 use to reason with such; the folly of the women 
 will always prevent the salutary effects of good 
 counsel. 
 
11? 
 
 Of the Volcanos incident to the Cordilleras. 
 
 THERE are, in this chain of mountains, sixteen 
 volcanos which, at several times, have broke out 
 and occasioned most alarming effects to all the 
 country. Among the rest, that which happened 
 in the year 1640 was the most terrific of any that 
 had been known since the discovery of this coun- 
 try by the Spaniards : it broke out in the enemy's 
 country in the territory of the Cacique Aliante. It 
 burst forth suddenly, having been preceded by a 
 tremulous motion of the earth, and continued 
 burning with so much violence, that the whole top 
 of the mountain cleaving in two, sent forth such 
 immense masses of burning rock, accompanied 
 with the most dreadful sounds, which were heard 
 many leagues distant : on this occasion all the 
 women that were with child miscarried, from the 
 alarm that the day of judgment was come, and no- 
 thing was uttered but cries and lamentations, with 
 people flying in all directions to avoid the threat- 
 ened evil. This volcano has continued ever since 
 to burst forth at times, but never with a degree of 
 violence equal to its first eruption. 
 
 The first is called the volcano of Copiapo, and 
 is in about twenty-six degrees of the altitude of 
 the pole, about the confines of Chili and Peru. 
 
118 
 
 In thirty degrees is that of Coquimbo. In thirty- 
 one and a half that of La Ligua. In thirty- five and 
 a half that of Peteroa. In thirty-six and a half 
 that of Chilau. In thirty-seven and a quarter that 
 of Antaco. This is succeeded by that of Notuco 
 in thirty eight and a half. That of Klarica is in 
 thirty-nine and three-quarters. A short distance 
 from this is another bearing the same name, and 
 in forty-one is that of Osorno, and in less than a 
 quarter of a degree that of Guanahuca, and in a 
 little more than forty-two degrees that of Quebu- 
 cabi. There are two more in forty-four ; and last 
 of all, St. Clement in forty-five and a half. These 
 are the present known volcanos in Chili Proper. 
 There are a great many, it is supposed, that ex- 
 tend through the district of Terra del Fuego, but 
 of these I have no certain knowledge, therefore 
 only speak of those within the kingdom of Chili. 
 It is not only the volcanos that raise our wonder 
 in that great chain of mountains : the multitude 
 of rivers that have their rise in them still increases 
 our astonishment, as it is computed there are not 
 less than two hundred which derive their sources 
 entirely from them, and are of a most surprising 
 breadth and depth at their fall into the sea. An- 
 other cause of admiration, is the short course these 
 riyers nin, not exceeding thirty leagues in length 
 from their source to the ocean. The first of these 
 beginning at the confines of Peru, about 
 
119 
 
 twenty-fifth degree of latitude, is called the Salt 
 River ; on its descent from the Cordilleras it takes 
 almost a western course, through a deep valley, to 
 the sea : its waters are so extremely salt, they can- 
 not be held in the mouth for a moment, without 
 occasioning severe vomiting. The next to this is 
 the river of Copiapo, in twenty-six degrees : it 
 runs twenty leagues from east to west, and makes 
 a bay at its entrance into the sea, which forms a 
 good and safe harbour for ships. In twenty-eight 
 degrees the river of Guasco does the same, and 
 forms a port. Next to this comes the river of Co- 
 quimbo in thirty degrees : it forms a fine noble 
 bay whose banks are adorned with myrtles, rose 
 trees, and many other plants of great beauty, and 
 serves as a shady grove for the inhabitants to walk 
 and recreate themselves : it has a most noble ap- 
 pearance for its great length and breadth, for it 
 extends from the town quite to the sea-shore, far 
 surpassing in beauty all the works of art: along 
 the banks the inhabitants frequently amuse them- 
 selves in taking the tunny fish, which abounds 
 in it. 
 
 The next rivers to Coquimbo, are those of 
 Tongoy, and Lemari, about thirty degrees and 
 half east, and then in thirty degrees the river 
 Chuapa empties itself into the sea. Upon that 
 coast there is found a very delicate shell fish 
 called Jacas; between the one and thirtieth and 
 
120 
 
 two and thirtieth degree, the rivers Longotomo, 
 and La Liga enter the sea, and about thirty-three 
 degrees that of Aconcagua, which is the great 
 river that comes down by the Cordillera : this is 
 very deep, and although it runs through the large 
 valleys of Curimon, Aconcagua, Quillota, and 
 Concon, which valleys are cultivated, and pro- 
 duce wheat, flax, hemp, and many others that 
 require much irrigation, yet this river arrives 
 at the sea as full and deep, as if it had not lent 
 its waters to fertilize the grounds through which 
 it runs. 
 
 About thirty-three and half, follows the cele- 
 brated river Alaypo, known beyond others for 
 its rapidity and depth; the current is so very 
 strong the whole of its course, that it has been 
 found impracticable to lay a bridge over it. It 
 is likewise subject to sudden and impetuous 
 rising, inundating the country, and carrying down 
 every thing that attempts to resist its fury. It 
 is therefore passed by means of large cables 
 joined together, fixed by a windlass on each side: 
 its waters are generally thick and muddy, and the 
 force with which it enters the sea, causes it to 
 make repeated circles, by which the seamen 
 distinguish it from any other on the coast. Its 
 waters are brackish, yet the sheep fed on its 
 banks, have a most delicious flavour; as have 
 the fish caught in it, they being esteemed above 
 
121 
 
 all others. There falls into this river among 
 others, that of Mapo, otherwise St. Jago, which 
 is divided into several rivulets, that surround 
 and water the city of that name, not far from thence 
 it hides itself under ground, leaving a bridge of 
 pasture over it, for two or three leagues; when 
 it springs up again among a grove of cherry 
 trees, with waters so extremely clear and pu- 
 rified, that it looks like crystal. At this place 
 of its second birth, stands the noble convent of 
 St. Francis of the Mountains. 
 
 The river of Poangue, which falls also into 
 Maypo, runs also many leagues under ground. 
 This river cannot rise again with more brilliancy 
 than it possesses at its course, where the water 
 is so clear, delicate, and sweet, that it is coveted 
 by every one to drink. This river derives not its 
 source from snow-water like all the rest, but from 
 the gold mines, through whose veins it makes 
 its way. The water is considered medicinal in all 
 stomachic complaints, where it runs above ground: 
 its course is bordered on each side with beautiful 
 trees and flowers, that form a most delightful 
 walk. It does not become useless when lost to 
 the light, for in its subterranean bed, it com- 
 municates its blessings by vapour ; for though in 
 the summer, there does not fall any rain, and 
 the ground can have no other watering, yet it 
 
 '"VERSITY 
 
brings as fine crops as those that have the help of 
 rain and other irrigations : nor have I seen any 
 where larger or more delicious melons and corn 
 than in this valley. There are two other rivers that 
 fall into the Maypo, which are called De Colina 
 and Lampa, and, uniting together about ten 
 or twelve leagues from their source, form the 
 famous lake of Cuadaguael, which is deep 
 enough to float some of the largest ships of war. 
 This lake is about two leagues long, and one or 
 more broad: its banks afford the most pleasing 
 shade, being planted quite round with ever-greens 
 and other plants; and that nothing might be 
 wanting to amuse as well as delight the eye, and 
 charm the senses, it abounds with beautiful trout 
 and the fish called vagres, which, at times, are in 
 such great plenty, that they are easily caught; for 
 this purpose, the citizens of St. Jago make fre- 
 quent parties of diversion to go fishing in the lake, 
 which is very amusing. I have seen large quan- 
 tities taken in a very little time. There are other 
 lakes, as those of Aculco, which empty them- 
 selves into this river of Maypo, on the contrary 
 side to that of the clear river. There also breed 
 in it smelts of a foot long, the very name in 
 Spanish signifying a royal fish. In some years 
 there is such plenty of them, as to supply the 
 whole city during the time of Lent, without buy- 
 
123 
 
 ing any other fish, such as the sea fish, which, 
 though very good, do not attain the delicacy of 
 those taken in the river. 
 
 Next after the Maypo is the river Rapel, and not 
 at all inferior to the other: it enters the sea about 
 the thirty-fourth degree, and as many minutes; 
 about four or five leagues before the two famous 
 rivers of Cachapoul and Pingueritica join together, 
 and are no less rapid and dangerous. Among 
 others of great rapidity, are the rivers Maltua 
 and Chambaronigo ; on the banks of the last, 
 the Order of the Redemption has a Convent, 
 the Jesuits have also a Novitiate ; and they have 
 for neighbours a Monastery of St. Dominick. 
 The lands there are extremely fertile, with most 
 excellent pastures for the fattening of cattle, which 
 are much valued all over the country. In thirty-four 
 degrees and three-quarters is the river Delbra, which 
 receives those of Tino, Petesroa, and Mataquita, 
 whose stream is so very rapid that many perish 
 in it. These rivers water most rich lands, forming 1 
 a delicious country for the breeding and fatten- 
 ing* all sorts of cattle; for which cause there is 
 not a single foot of ground unemployed in all the 
 district. The great Maul appears in thirty-five 
 degrees, and it forms the limits of the Arch- 
 bishoprick and Jurisdiction of the city of St. 
 Jago. All that is comprehended between this, the 
 Rapel, the Cachapo, and the Pinguitica, was called 
 
124 
 
 by the native Indians Promocacs; a place of 
 dancing and delight, to express the pleasant- 
 ness of that country. I remember once, that 
 travelling in this country, when I came to a farm 
 of any Spaniard, he would entertain me with no- 
 thing but the praises of it, so that I thought it 
 could not be excelled : but when I came to the next, 
 the owner would enter into so many particulars 
 of the pleasures and advantages he enjoyed, that, 
 I was brought to think but indifferently of the 
 one. I had seen before ; and therefore, before the 
 end of my journey, I could not but regard the 
 whole as one great and most desirable district. 
 Partridges abound here, as do all sorts of 
 game; and, for fish, such as smelts, trouts, and 
 other river fish, no place in the world can 
 exceed it. 
 
 The river Maul receives the Clear river, and that 
 of the Cauquenes, and though it be as deep again 
 as either of them, yet, it is less dangerous for 
 passengers, and fewer people are drowned; be- 
 cause near the sea, and the yard for building the 
 king's ships, it spreads itself and allows a wide 
 passage over it; where the king has a ferry, for 
 the convenience of all passengers. 
 
 The Austin Friars have also a convent here, 
 and take care of the Spaniards and their Black 
 and Indian servants, who people all the banks of 
 this river, and are very numerous, living in sepa- 
 
125 
 
 rate farms all along the country ; these they call 
 Estancias. 
 
 Next we enter the jurisdiction of the city of 
 Conception, where the governor resides, and 
 there is a garrison of militia. The Bishoprick 
 of the city of Imperial, begins also at this river, 
 which has in its immediate vicinity, the river 
 of Itata, three times as large and as deep as 
 the Maul, and enters the sea about thirty-six 
 degrees; its course is among rocks, for which 
 reason it renders but little service to the land; as 
 the farmers cannot convey it over their ground ; 
 so that there is no kind of irrigation used in any 
 part of its course. They pass it upon rafts made 
 of any light materials, but there are fords in 
 several places. 
 
 About the middle of its course, the furious 
 torrent of the Nubia joins it, and washes the 
 walls of the city of St. Bartholomew, of Chilian, 
 where is an ancient garrison of the Spaniards, 
 who have here often given singular proofs of 
 their determined valour, when attacked by the 
 Indians; which has very frequently and unfor- 
 tunately happened. Indeed they are hardly ever 
 free from assaults of the roving Indians, who come 
 upon them in such a sudden manner, that 
 they are obliged to go armed to the church, for 
 when the soldiers are at mass, the Indians 
 generally seize that time to attack. 
 
126 
 
 Next to this river is the spacious and agreeable 
 bay of the Conception, into which the slow and 
 silent river Andalieu empties itself, at thirty-six 
 degrees and three quarters. There is another 
 small river that passes through the middle of the 
 city, having first precipitated itself from a high 
 rock which gives a stimulus to the industry of 
 the inhabitants, by furnishing sufficient water 
 to turn several mills ; besides, it amply provides 
 water for the gardens, which are every where on 
 its banks, that are edged the whole length with 
 myrtles and orange-trees, and here and there 
 with fine laurels. 
 
 Two leagues further from this bay, in the thirty- 
 seventh degree, the much-admired Biobio enters 
 the sea. It is the most powerful river of all 
 Chili. At its mouth, it is near three miles over, 
 which is considered very greaf on account of the 
 short course it runs. The waters of this river are 
 remarkable for their medicinal qualities, which 
 it obtains by means of a small river that falls into 
 it, that has its source, and for nearly the length 
 of its course, passes, amongst sarsaparilla roots. 
 These, it is supposed, communicate their medicinal 
 virtues to the waters, which are proved to be a 
 cure for many infirmities. There is a tradition, 
 that at the source of this river, there were many 
 very rich mines, worked before ever the Spaniards 
 came into these parts. This tradition being 
 
127 
 
 reported to Don Monso de Sotomayor, president 
 of the country, he sent a party of soldiers to ex- 
 amine them, which they did ; but, on their return, 
 they were laid wait for by Indians, who set upon 
 them so fiercely, that but few returned to give an 
 account of their journey. 
 
 This river forms the boundary that divides our 
 Indian friends from our Indian enemies. In 
 winter, the river rises and overflows its banks; 
 so as to render the roads impassable, and pre- 
 vents the enemy from crossing it at the fords, 
 which gives the soldiers a respite till the spring. 
 They therefore betake themselves to garrison 
 quarters, and the enemy to theirs in the moun- 
 tains, to which they always retire as to a for- 
 tress. The Spaniards have several garrisons or 
 forts along this river, which they are always 
 obliged to keep well supplied with men and am- 
 munition, in order to bridle and keep in awe 
 their potent and proud enemy, who alone has 
 given them more trouble than all the rest of Ame- 
 rica, and never, I think, will be subdued. 
 
 The chief places of strength, besides the cities 
 of Conception and Chillian, are those of Arauco 
 and St. Philip, in which there are, in general, 
 from one to two thousand native Spaniards, be- 
 sides the numerous Indian allies. The fort of 
 Arauco is situated near the sea, commanding the 
 entrance of the river, and that of St. Philip, 
 
128 
 
 a few leagues from the Cordillera. There are 
 several smaller ones on each side the river : these 
 two principal ones, and nine others, it has 
 been found necessary to erect farther in the 
 enemy's country, which are thus named. St. 
 Angol, the Nativity of St. Ann, St. Rosondo, 
 Good Hope, Talmacahuida, St. Peter, Colcuta, 
 and Levo. These fortresses are all provided with 
 artillery, and a sufficient number of soldiers, 
 and built at such convenient distances from 
 each other, that one being attacked, by firing 
 a signal gun the whole range is put upon 
 the alert, either to assist their neighbours, or de- 
 fend themselves. The company of Jesus has 
 here two residencies, one in Arauco, and the 
 other in the fort of Good Hope, from whence they 
 also make their attempts, not against the bodies, 
 but to save the souls of their enemies. 
 
 After Biobio, follow four others, but much 
 inferior to it. They are the rivers Colcura, 
 Arauco, Labapu, and Levo, which last empties 
 itself near the thirty-eighth degree ; and somewhat 
 further that of Relimo, which a short way from 
 its source is named Coypo. In near thirty-nine 
 degrees, the pleasant and peaceful river of the 
 Imperial enters the sea, having previously incor- 
 porated with its waters the river called the Ladies, 
 on account of its quiet current. Nearer its source, 
 it receives the two rivers of Curarava and Cyon, 
 
129 
 
 which, before they meet to enter the river Impe- 
 rial, form the beautiful lake of Pureo, celebrated 
 as being an unconquerable fortress of the In- 
 dians, who are more secure in it than the Spa- 
 niards in any of theirs. About half a degree 
 beyond the river Cauren, which is the same as 
 the Imperial, the river Tolten pays its tribute to 
 the sea, and is deep enough for large ships to 
 anchor. About eight leagues further, the river 
 Queule does the same, which, though small, yet 
 barks (small coasting vessels) make it their port. 
 It is about nine leagues upon a north and south 
 line from the famous river of Valdivia. 
 
 The river and port of Valdivia, never enough 
 extolled by foreign writers, and universally ad- 
 mired by those who have seen it, had its name 
 from Pedro de Valdivia, first governor and con- 
 queror of Chili. It is, as it were, in the centre of 
 the whole kingdom ; in about forty degrees of lati- 
 tude, south-west of Seville in Spain, upon a plain 
 map one thousand nine hundred and seventy 
 leagues measured by the heavens. The sun is 
 five hours and a third part of an hour in passing 
 from the meridian of Seville to the meridian of 
 Valdivia ; so that when it is noon at Seville, it is 
 in Valdivia six o'clock and forty minutes in the 
 morning : its longest day is about fourteen hours. 
 This river has its opening to the north, and, 
 from its depth, large ships are enabled to get 
 
130 
 
 close to the city, although it is between two and 
 three leagues from the sea, so that they lade or 
 unlade close to the merchants' houses, having no 
 occasion for boats. Over-against the city is the 
 fine island of Constantine, with two smaller 
 ones ; one before, the other behind, the island. 
 The river is navigable on both sides the island, 
 but the south branch, having a greater depth of 
 water, the large ships come in by the south, and 
 the smaller by the north branch. There are two 
 points of land like rocks, which mark the en- 
 trance of this river ; the biggest is to the north, 
 and is called Bonifacio's Hill, the south is less, 
 and called Goncalo's Hill. When you are en- 
 tered some way up the river, there is another 
 straighter passage, termed the key of the port, 
 or rather ports, for there are several harbours 
 within. This entrance also has two hills, which 
 come so near each other, that I have heard a 
 captain who was sent to sound the river relate, 
 that in the middle he was within musket-shot of 
 either hill. That to the south is called Moro de 
 los Mancanos, and that opposite Moro de Niera ; 
 So that, according to this account, there might 
 be laid a chain from one to the other, with which, 
 and two forts, the entrance might be made im- 
 pregnable. As soon as this streight is passed, 
 there is, on the south side, a noble port ; for, 
 though all the river might be called so, from its 
 
131 
 
 calm state, yet this is more advantageously situ- 
 ated from being land-locked by the adjacent 
 mountains. It is called the port of the Corral, 
 and forms a bay, capable of receiving large fleets. 
 When you have passed this port, there appears 
 the first island, between which and the land, on 
 the south side, there are many shoals and sands, 
 on which account the ships enter on the north 
 side, and passing between this island and the 
 great one, pursue their course to the city by the 
 channel of the largest island : the lesser vessels 
 may, without danger, enter by the other side of 
 the island. This port has other advantages, by 
 being placed in the centre of a most fruitful 
 country, producing all sorts of the finest corn, 
 and every kind of fruit but grapes, which do not 
 ripen so freely as in other parts of Chili, so that 
 no wine is made here, but it is sent hither 
 from other districts of Chili. It affords, how- 
 ever, great plenty of beef and mutton, venison 
 and fowls of every description. It has, also, 
 wood for ship-building, and that which is es- 
 teemed above all, the richest mines of the finest 
 gold in Chili, nay, in all America, as there is 
 not any can compare to it but the gold of 
 Carabaya. 
 
 This city was founded by the governor Valdi- 
 via, in the year 1552, upon a rising ground, on 
 the side of a hill, much above the rest of the coun- 
 
 K 2 
 
132 
 
 try. Historians say, that an Indian lady, named 
 Roloina, was the principal means of procuring 
 for Valdivia a quiet possession of this rich terri- 
 tory. The story is thus related. The Spaniards 
 had advanced as conquerors thus far into the fer- 
 tile land of Chili, but, when arrived at this river, 
 they found a most formidable army of Indians in 
 battle array, covering the opposite shore with 
 their numbers, and determined to oppose the 
 passage of the river. The Spaniards had made 
 several unsuccessful attempts, in all which they 
 had been driven back with great loss, and any 
 other than Valdivia would have relinquished the 
 attempt ; but he ordered his men to renew their 
 efforts, which, as they were about to execute, an 
 Indian lady, of considerable power, came to the 
 governor, and requested him not to think of 
 again forcing the passage, " Stay here,'* she said, 
 t; and go no further ; I will put all this province 
 into thy hands, and make thee lord of all thy 
 eyes can discover. I shall go, but stay for my 
 return here, and go not a step further, nor suffer 
 any of thy soldiers to pass on." The governor 
 promised to obey her command, and pledged 
 himself to shew the kindest treatment to all the 
 Indians that would submit to his God and his 
 king. Thus being assured of peace, the lady 
 alone threw herself into the river, and swam to 
 the opposite shore, which, having reached, she 
 
133 
 
 assembled all the chiefs around her, to whom she 
 made a long and very animated speech, which so 
 affected the Indiana, that they, one and all, de- 
 clared themselves ready to accept any terms the 
 Spaniards might think most advisable to propose. 
 With this answer, the famous Ruloma returned 
 to the governor, assuring him of the most peace- 
 able possession he could desire, and all the Indians 
 immediately submitted to him. He accordingly 
 crossed the river in safety, and took possession 
 of the richest country in the world. Here Val- 
 divia immediately founded the city, the Indians 
 aiding him in all things, and giving every thing 
 he desired for its establishment : but this good 
 understanding did not continue long. The go- 
 vernor, however, began to seek for gold, instead 
 of peaceably establishing his city : all his care 
 being to procure the precious metal for Spain, to 
 prove to his majesty the rich country which they 
 had conquered. The river next to Valdivia is 
 named Chalben : it is deep, and capable of re- 
 ceiving large vessels : from this river to a place 
 called the Punta de Galera is about two leagues, 
 and from this to Rio Bueno seven, into which 
 fall five rivers more, which form the bounds of 
 -Valdivia. After this is the Rio Chico, which 
 comes from a lake at the foot of the Cordillera, in 
 which lake are baths to cure leprosy and other 
 infirmities. Next to this is the Rio de la Bellena, 
 
134 
 
 close to the cape of the same name, so deno- 
 minated from a whale of prodigious size, which 
 came ashore, and died upon that part of the coast. 
 After this, you come to the archipelago of islands, 
 into which falls the river called de Los Rabados, 
 on account of an Indian nation of that name. 
 More on to the south is the river de los Cor- 
 ronados, named so by the company of a ship, 
 which put in there on the day of the Forty Mar- 
 tyrs so called. 
 
 After these are many rivers all along the coast ; 
 the first is called De la Esperonso or of Hope, be- 
 cause of the wishes that one day the light of the Gos- 
 pel may reach to those parts by means of the minis- 
 ters of it. The second is named Rio Sin Fundo, 
 or the river without a bottom, because of its great 
 depth. The third is called the Gallegas, from a 
 Spaniard, who sailing along the coast, was drown- 
 ed near the shore, and, like another Icarus, gave 
 his name to it, as also to the cape of that name. 
 Then follow the rivers de los Martyres, and de los 
 Apostles, and immediately after them two others, 
 one of them not named, .the other is called de los 
 Gigantes, or of the giants, because on the banks 
 of this river a very tall race of men have been 
 fancifully supposed to inhabit the province of the 
 streights of Magellan. The famous river called 
 de la Campana, enters at a place called El Aucon 
 Sin Salida : this name was given to the river be- 
 
135 
 
 cause its two arms seem to form the shape of a 
 bell. There are two rivers more before you come 
 to the streights ; the first is named de los Paxaros, 
 or of birds, on account of such numbers being- 
 found on that part, which runs towards the 
 streights ; and the other of St. Victorian, called 
 so from the opening to which the same saint gives 
 its name ; as for the other rivers that run among 
 the islands I shall speak of them when I come to 
 treat of the islands. Those which I have already 
 spoken of, run from east to west, and empty 
 themselves into the South Sea. Those which run 
 from the opposite part of the Cordillera, towards 
 the North Sea, are not so well known, because 
 those parts are not so well inhabited, at least by 
 such as can give us a good account of them. 
 There are but two of any consideration that are 
 known, and these empty themselves into the cele- 
 brated lake of Guanuache: 
 
 Besides the rivers and springs of the Cordilleras 
 there are many fountains of most excellent vir- 
 tues : among others, that which rises at the foot of 
 the great volcano of Villa Rica, with such force that 
 it springs into the air many feet, and with such a 
 body of water at each source, that it forms at a short 
 distance a pretty considerable lake. In another 
 lake from which the river Rio Chico derives its 
 name, there rises a fountain of hot water which 
 is a never-failing cure for the leprosy and other 
 
136 
 
 cutaneous distempers ; there is another remark- 
 able spring in the lake Maguey which has two 
 mouths close by each other, the one sends forth 
 very hot water, the other equally as cold ; these 
 two assist each other by tempering the baths for 
 the afflicted who resort in great numbers to them, 
 cutaneous diseases being very frequent in that 
 neighbourhood. The baths of Rencagua are 
 likewise much frequented for the same distem- 
 pers ; and, being near St. Jago, where the 
 greatest intercourse of the kingdom is, are more 
 sought after, and more numerously frequented. 
 There are many others in different parts of the 
 kingdom possessing great medicinal virtues. 
 Among the fountains, that of llhamon is the most 
 celebrated for the abundance of the water it affords, 
 being sufficient to irrigate the surrounding fields, 
 so that the farmers never feel the want of rain. At 
 about two leagues to the eastward of St. Jago, is 
 another very remarkable one, that of Carren, 
 which does not throw up its waters, but bubbles 
 out of the earth in a beautiful meadow or valley, 
 about six leagues in length, through which it runs, 
 not in one particular channel ; but, spreading it- 
 self over the earth, makes it so very porous, that 
 any one jumping quick upon it, the earth appears 
 to shake all around him. The valley retains its 
 verdure all the year round, producing a kind of 
 grass like trefoil, which the inhabitants eat in 
 
137 
 
 spring and autumn as we do water-cresses. The 
 next is the fountain of Mayten, which rises 
 about midway between the two last, and is re- 
 markable for having its water most cold when 
 the weather is most hot: it affords an excel- 
 lent sweet water, deriving its name from a tree 
 so called, of surprising height and bigness, its 
 branches spreading to an astonishing extent, and, 
 what adds to its beauty is, a large smooth table 
 of rock, at the foot of which, the tree expands, 
 affording a delightful cover to those who resort 
 hither to enjoy its shade, and partake of collations 
 which many people provide to entertain their 
 visitors and others. This tree is evergreen, some- 
 thing like a myrtle, but of much stronger scent, 
 and a more lively green. The fountain runs at the 
 foot of the tree, having its source a little higher 
 up, from whence it runs, in gentle murmuring, 
 over pebbles, and among small shrubs and flow- 
 ers of the finest scent, which make it altogether 
 a most enchanting spot. 
 
 The fruit-trees in this valley, though wild, pro- 
 duce very fine fruit of various kinds ; particu- 
 larly the cherry, affording such immense pro- 
 fusion, that the boughs are weighed to the 
 earth : also, the apples, which I have seen drop 
 off in such abundance, as to stop the course of a 
 large stream. To add to the pleasure of those 
 that resort thither, there are great quantities of 
 
138 
 
 singing birds, whose harmony never fails to re- 
 joice the hearers. There is also a delightful 
 prospect for many leagues, both of cultivated 
 and uncultivated lands: though to look at them 
 in prospective, one would imagine the whole was 
 one great garden, the uncultivated lands being as 
 profusely decorated with admirable flowers, es- 
 pecially in the spring of the year, as any well 
 regulated garden ; so that among the vineyards, 
 and plowed lands, the uncultivated part is as 
 admirable to look on, as the most curious per- 
 son could wish or desire. 
 
 The green meadows mingle in this scene, with 
 the waters of the river Mapocho, which is seen 
 distinctly at this distance ; at one place quietly in 
 its bed, at another divided into several streams, 
 and softly gliding over the fields and meadows, 
 to fertilize and enrich them : at length the prospect 
 is terminated by several farms called chacras, and 
 their churches. In the midst of this delightful 
 landscape, about two leagues distant, the city of 
 St. Jago opens to the view, and in clear weather, 
 the bells are distinctly heard. This district 
 abounds with many more springs, all affording very 
 excellent water: that which is to the north of the 
 city of St. Jago, named Conchalli, is likewise 
 much spoken of. It rises in a little valley called 
 the Salto or Leap, from the fall of the river 
 Mapocho, which flows in the plain to a certain 
 
139 
 
 place, where it has been divided by art into two 
 branches; the largest of which runs in its natu- 
 ral bed, the lesser is conducted by channels to 
 water the valley. The western part of the valley 
 is level, but the eastern rises considerably, and 
 through which the river runs, making about three 
 miles from the high ground to the bottom, where 
 the river falls, forming several very romantic 
 cascades, owing to many pieces of rock, and other 
 obstacles that it meets with to obstruct its descent. 
 Not far distant from the fall, it unites again into 
 one stream for a short way, and then is divided 
 again into many streams, to water and cleanse 
 the city ; after which it again unites, and empties 
 itself into the sea. 
 
 It is very remarkable, that, although this last 
 valley is but half a league from the city, fruits 
 of all kinds ripen sooner by a month than in the 
 gardens of St. Jago. It also abounds in game, 
 such as partridges on the high ground, and vari- 
 ous wild fowl in the ponds and lakes; indeed it 
 is the most delightful place for pleasure and re- 
 creation that can be met with in any district. 
 I shall not repeat the number of fountains, since 
 they are too numerous for particular description. 
 Those alone of Conception, Arauco, and the 
 country which borders on the warlike Indians, 
 would be sufficient to fill a large book. Of all 
 these springs, none are so much esteemed as 
 
140 
 
 those that are farthest from the Cordilleras, which 
 must be owing to their long course that naturally 
 purifies them, as they may partake of the quali- 
 ties of the ground, over or through which they 
 run. At the same time, I cannot help remark- 
 ing one which is in the Novitiate of the com- 
 pany of the Jesuits, in Bucalemo, whose waters are 
 not to be equalled for their delicacy and softness, 
 being to the touch like new butter. This foun- 
 tain springs in a little valley, under some hills, 
 about a league from the sea: it bubbles up in a 
 white sand, in which gold is found very frequently, 
 and it appears as if it had fire under it, to keep 
 it boiling. If you throw any light matter on it, 
 its motion instantly increases, and continues so 
 till it has swallowed up what has been thrown 
 on it, and then it returns to its former gentle 
 bubbling. The effects this water has on the 
 stomach is very great: it helps the digestion, 
 dissolves crudities, and phlegm, and evidently 
 prolongs life, especially in old men. 
 
 The old Indians attribute their good state of 
 health to this spring, which is the only remedy 
 they take in all illness: for as soon as they find 
 themselves ill, they set off to this spring, and 
 drink as much at one time as they can possibly 
 take, and, as fast as that evacuates, they take 
 more, and so continue repeating the draught till 
 they are cured ; the Novices also do the same as 
 
141 
 
 the Indians, and find the beneficial effects. I 
 have conversed with an old gentleman who was 
 near an hundred years old, that could ride, and 
 walk with the same agility as a young man. He 
 assured me, that this spring alone had prolonged 
 his life, and given him such health and spirits 
 as was most surprising to every one that saw 
 him. 
 
 Of the Lakes of Chili. 
 
 I SHALL speak first of the lake of Tagataguas, 
 which is found about fourteen leagues from that 
 city, and was once in high esteem for the fish 
 caught in it, and wild fowl taken on it; but it is , 
 little resorted to now by any but Indians. The lakes 
 of Villa Rica, are much the same. The lake of Purcu 
 has been famous for its being the grand fortress of 
 the warlike Indians, all of whom are our enemies. 
 They have for many years maintained the most 
 sanguinary war with very powerful armies of 
 Spaniards, who have sought in vain to dislodge 
 them from this impregnable fortress. Here they 
 have always found a secure and safe retreat, 
 whenever they had any encounter with the 
 Spanish force, it being so well fortified by nature 
 and art, that they rest here in perfect security, 
 and bid defiance to any enemy. 
 
142 
 
 The sea lakes are numerous, and of great ad- 
 vantage to the owners, whose lands border on 
 them; these fisheries are more secure and certain 
 than the sea, and are always sure of a good 
 market for their fish during Lent, 
 
 The lake named Rapel brings to its owner a 
 very great revenue, it runs in length two leagues, 
 or more, within land. In the winter, the sea is 
 joined to it, for, in all storms, the sea is driven 
 in with such violence, that it appears as the sea ; 
 but when the storm subsides, and the waters retire, 
 they leave behind vast quantities of fish, which, 
 added to those that breed in it, make it more than 
 enough to supply the markets for the whole year, 
 all through that district, not only with fish, but 
 very fine salt in abundance. About January the 
 sea begins to retire, and the sun is at the greatest 
 degree of strength in that climate : the water then 
 rapidly congeals, to sometimes more than a foot 
 thick, which when taken off and grated, makes 
 the purest white salt, and of a most excellent 
 flavour. It is not of an equal thickness every 
 year, but when it is most so, the people gather it 
 and lay it in store, so that there is never arty 
 want ; add to which, great numbers of salt pits 
 are made, and they seldom fail. 
 
 Since we are treating of salt, I will relate what 
 I myself have seen in the valley of Lampa, which 
 is about three leagues from St. Jago. fn that 
 
143 
 
 valley grows a small herb or shrub, I know not 
 under what class it comes, not altogether unlike 
 sweet basil, only its leaves are not so green, but 
 inclining to an ash colour : it rises about a foot 
 above ground, and is covered over in summer 
 with small grains of salt like pearl, which is con- 
 gealed upon its leaves, either by the dew of 
 heaven, or some vapour raised by the sun, from 
 the earth ; or else the nature of the herb is such, 
 as to exude this humidity, which, afterward 
 being congealed, is converted into salt: let 
 the cause be what it may, the effect is seen 
 no where but in this valley, and upon that 
 species of herb only. It is much valued by the 
 Indians, the salt of it being more savoury and of 
 a much finer flavour than any other. I cannot 
 tell whether Johannes de Laet means this plant, 
 in his description of the new world, or not; for 
 having mentioned the kingdom of Chili, to 
 which he gives the preference, he says, in that 
 kingdom, in some of its valleys, there falls, at 
 certain times of the year, such a dew upon the 
 leaves of the plants, that it is like sugar. Several 
 other authors speak of this dew, but I know not 
 whether it is the valley of Lampas they mean or 
 not, if it should, they could not possible have 
 tasted the congealed dew; if they had, as I have 
 often done, they would not all of them have been so 
 egregiouely mistaken, as to say salt was sugar. 
 
144 
 
 % 
 
 I will not say, it is impossible, that in one 
 district the same kind of plant should yield sugar, 
 and in another salt, but I never met with any but 
 the salt. 
 
 Of the Sea of Chili. 
 
 IT is well known that all the coast of Chili is 
 named the South Sea, because it is towards the 
 Antarctic pole, from whence generally the south 
 wind blows, in an opposite point to the Tra- 
 montana, or north, which reigns in the ocean as 
 far as the arctic pole. 
 
 In Chili, we regard the south as a favourable 
 wind. The north with us covers the heavens 
 with clouds, causes tempests and storms at 
 sea, and makes all the land dark and gloomy. 
 The south, on the contrary, makes the sky 
 serene and clear, and the sea in perfect har- 
 mony. Then, again, the south wind, in the 
 north sea, causes the same tempestuous weather 
 as the north wind does with us, whereas, when 
 the north wind begins to blow, it is soon quiet 
 and at peace, and fine weather immediately en- 
 sues. From hence it proceeds that in South Ame- 
 rica, thesouth wind reigns in summer, and the north 
 in winter, when it is most commonly subject to 
 
145 
 
 sudden and violent tempests : it invariably brings 
 sudden and heavy showers of rain, and squalls 
 of wind, called Tornados, which sometimes are 
 dreadful, and cause great destruction in other 
 parts of America more than in Chili, in those 
 parts in winter where the sky is clear, and the 
 weather altogether fair. It is when the south 
 wind overpowers the north, for the south wind 
 in those parts is cold and dry, which is an infalli- 
 ble sign of fair weather. In short, these two 
 winds cause quite different effects in Europe and 
 America : a well-known difference is, that to go 
 from Europe to the Indies, the north is the pro- 
 per wind, and carries us rapidly before it, and, 
 consequently, is contrary to our return. From 
 whence it proceeds, that a voyage from Spain to 
 Carthagena, being by the north sea, is made in 
 thirty, forty, and fifty days, and the return to 
 Spain most commonly lasts from fourscore to a 
 hundred and more days. On the contrary, in 
 the South Sea, the voyage from Chili to Lima 
 is made in about a fortnight, and as much more 
 to Panama. The return only from Panama to 
 Lima . takes up two months, and from Lima to 
 Chili forty days. The South Sea is also called 
 the Pacific Sea to distinguish it from the North 
 Sea, where storms and tempests are so frequent. 
 Whereas in the South Sea, they are rare ; but, in 
 iny opinion, the difference arises from another 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 cause. The most frequent navigations of the 
 South Sea are from Peru to Panama, and, from 
 thence to New Spain and the Philippine Islands. 
 Those from Peru to Chili are less used : by 
 which it appears, that the best part of the South- 
 Sea navigation is between the tropics, where the 
 sun has so much force, that it keeps the winds, 
 as it were, with a bridle, and therefore prevents 
 those lasting storms which are so severely felt 
 without the tropics, and in parts nearer the pole. 
 For this reason, the sailors, in these warm cli- 
 mates, where there is little or no winter, called 
 this sea the Pacific, from the general good wea- 
 ther they experienced in it. The reverse of this 
 is in the North Sea, where most of the navigation 
 is without the tropics; where the sun, having less 
 force, the winter predominates, and causes those 
 dreadful storms so often experienced. The Eu- 
 ropeans, who first navigated the South Sea, being 
 such as had been only acquainted with the tu- 
 multuous North Sea, when they found, under the 
 line, so calm a sea, and in those parts most fre- 
 quented, such as New Spain, Panama, and 
 Peru, they gave it the name of Pacific, without 
 examining any thing relative to causes and effects. 
 But had they tried that very South Sea without 
 the tropics, they would not so readily have as- 
 signed it the name of Pacific. All those that 
 have experienced the hardships suffered by navi- 
 
147 
 
 gators, from the twenty-sixth degree of latitude, 
 on the coast of Chili to fifty-three degrees, will 
 admit my reasons to be just ; for there, as soon 
 as the winter begins, the sea cannot be navigated 
 without danger; the storms being in no ways 
 inferior to the worst in the north ; and although, 
 at that season, it is not so dangerous to sail from 
 Chili to Lima, because they every day get into 
 a less latitude, yet, from Peru to Chili, it is 
 extremely dangerous, not only because they 
 come into a greater latitude, but go out [further 
 to sea, to avoid the south winds, heavy fogs, and 
 dark misty clouds, that cover the land in such a 
 manner, that not without the utmost danger, do 
 they make their port, not being able to discern 
 the rocks and shoals that every-where menace 
 them. 
 
 What I have just said, relates only to those 
 coasts of Chili that are in the least latitude; for, 
 from the city of the Conception, even in summer, 
 they are dangerous, and the ships that are bound 
 for the islands of Chili have not above two or 
 three months in the year to go in and out with 
 safety ; therefore, if they are not able to avail 
 themselves of that short period, they must in- 
 evitably put by the voyage to the next year. 
 This is to be understood as far as forty-four or 
 forty-five degrees, in which this archipelago of 
 islands is placed ; for, from thence to the streights 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 of Magellan, those can best tell the danger who 
 have passed them. They will all have enough 
 to discourse of at their return. Therefore, we 
 may say, that the title of Pacific does not pro- 
 perly belong to the South Sea, speaking of its 
 whole extent ; but only to those parts with which 
 we have at present the greatest intercourse, as they 
 being within the tropics, are freest from storms ; 
 and yet the South Sea has many advantages over 
 the North, by being free from the great sand 
 shoals so common in the North Sea about Car- 
 thagena, the Havannah, and other islands ; nay, 
 even in the channel of Bahama, which indeed 
 are so many, that, let a storm be but moderate, 
 they increase greatly, so that sea-room is much 
 lessened, and the sailors are always heaving the 
 lead to avoid a shoal or running upon rocks 
 which are every way visible from the ships. 
 Antonio de Herrera, in the fifth decade of his 
 General History, folio 319, relates the motive 
 Magellan had to call this the Pacific Sea: be- 
 cause there is not, in all that element, a more 
 spacious career for the winds ; and as there 
 reigned between the tropics so steady and strong 
 a levant, that in many days' sail, the seamen 
 need not hand their sails, nor the steersman his 
 helm, sailing through those vast seas as in a 
 canal. He further adds, that this motion of the 
 wind proceeds from the course of the first mobile, 
 
149 
 
 which is proved by its perpetual invariability, 
 and the increase of its vehemence, as it draws 
 nearer the equinox. Some dispute may arise 
 whether it ought to be called a wind, or an 
 impulse which the air receives from superior orbs 
 communicated to them by the first sphere ; which 
 to me appears very feasible, and the reasoning 
 of Herrera is certainly clear and demonstrable to 
 those who have frequented those seas. 
 
 The most famous port in all the coast, besides 
 that of Valdivia, which we have already described, 
 is that of Ququnerbo, a bay where ships can, in 
 all weathers, ride secure. To which may be 
 added, the delightful country round it, which is 
 not surpassed by any. The product of this dis- 
 trict is mostly gold and copper, which is carried 
 from thence to Peru. The copper is used for the 
 artillery, church bells, and household furniture. 
 The ports also of Copiapo and Guasco are thought 
 good, but there is not much trade to them. The 
 port and bay of Pacudo is not known much to 
 any but the domestic traders: it is a private 
 secure bay, almost encircled round, so that no- 
 thing but the entrance is visible : hither the 
 ships from Peru come to load with the hides and 
 tallow of Chirapa, as also with tar and tackling 
 for ships, which is made in that valley, and is 
 esteemed whiter and better than any in Chili. 
 The next is the port of Coucan Quillota, where 
 
150 
 
 the product of these valleys is embarked. A short 
 distance from thence is the famous port of Val 
 Paraiso, where are landed all the goods brought 
 for the city of St. Jago ; from whence they are 
 distributed all over its territory, and, as far as 
 Cuyo and Tucuman. This port daily increases 
 its population ; it being the port of the greatest 
 commerce with Peru. It is distant from St. Jago 
 twenty-four leagues of level country, and good 
 roads, very well disposed for land carriage, by 
 which means all the different commodities of 
 both kingdoms are exchanged. Near the port of 
 Val Paraiso is that of St. Antonio, which is also 
 very safe and good, and is at the mouth of the 
 river Maypo : there is a mistake in authors about 
 this, for they place the port of Val Paraiso at the 
 mouth of a river, which they make in their maps 
 to come from St. Jago. This is a very great 
 error, because at Val Paraiso there is no river of 
 any note, but only springs and fountains which 
 rise out of the rocks, close by the sea, from 
 whence the ships take in their water, as it is a 
 more pure body than any thereabout, and inva- 
 riably keeps better at sea. There are several 
 other ports between that and the Conception, 
 but none of them much resorted to, as all the 
 valleys from Maul to Quillota send their produce 
 by land to Val Paraiso. All the product from 
 Maul upwards is carried to the harbour of the 
 
151 
 
 Conception, as it has the best bay on all the 
 coast. At its entrance is placed the island of 
 Quiroiquina, under which, as in a mole, ships 
 ride in the greatest security amid the most violent 
 storms. At the entrance of this bay is the port 
 of Le Herradura, or Horse-shoe, it being in that 
 form ; and, opposite to it, is that of St. Vincent; 
 and a little farther, that of Carnero, called so, for 
 the refreshment it afforded to one of the ships 
 belonging to the bishop of Palencia, who, by order 
 of Charles the Fifth, passed the Streights of 
 Magellan with six sail : and, having lost their 
 pinnace, was forced to the Maluccas. Next to 
 these are the ports of Perva and Quedal. Le 
 Beachica, Purralla, St. Cebrian, Sancta Clara, 
 St, Domingo, St. Estevan, Los Reyes, Biaxas, 
 and the Innocents, and many others of less con- 
 sequence, as far as the Streights of Magellan. 
 
 The Inhabitants of Chili. 
 
 THE Indians of Chili are represented, by all 
 that have written of them, as the boldest and 
 most valiant warriors of all the vast extent of the 
 New World. It were to be wished by us, that 
 this had not been confirmed by woful experi- 
 ence ; for then the kingdom of Chili would have 
 been the most flourishing kingdom of the Indies. 
 
152 
 
 Though the Spaniards subjected in so short a 
 time those vast empires of Mexico and Peru, yet 
 nevertheless they have not, in the space of one 
 hundred years, been able to subdue the Indians 
 of Chili, sons of the great Cordillera, from 
 whence they seem to borrow their untameable 
 strength and fierceness. Their universal love of 
 liberty has always been a barrier against their 
 having a king, as those of Mexico and Peru ; nor 
 have they ever been subject to one only form of 
 government or commonwealth. Their warlike 
 temper did not permit them to have patience 
 enough to await state debates necessary for the 
 union of so many minds ; every family, therefore, 
 chose one among them to direct ; from this arose 
 the caciques who are the sovereigns among them, 
 whose power is hereditary, and their children 
 enjoy it with all its rights. But though every 
 cacique governs independently his own district, 
 yet, when the safety of all is menaced, there is 
 immediately a meeting summoned of all the 
 caciques and elders of the people, men of talents 
 and experience in war*. In these councils, they 
 debate and resolve what they think best for the 
 general good : if it be a case of war either 
 offensive or defensive, they choose their general, 
 which is never one of the most noble of the caciques, 
 or the most powerful, but him that has the fame 
 
 * See Frontispiece. 
 
153 
 
 of being the most valiant and most successful 
 against their enemies. As soon as he is elected, 
 all the people, as well caciques as others, pledge 
 themselves to obey him in all things ; which they 
 never fail to observe with the most scrupulous 
 fidelity. When the general is chosen, the de- 
 bates on the occasion are always held in the open 
 air, and a general assembly of the people is ap- 
 pointed for the next day, in order that every one 
 that chooses may give his opinion respecting the 
 business. This done, the most pleasant plain 
 or meadow that the district affords is pitched 
 upon for the grand assembly to meet in. Thither 
 they send an incredible quantity of provision, 
 and great store of chicha, a strong liquor which 
 is their wine. Being assembled, they first eat 
 and drink ; that done, and being warmed by 
 their liquor, which greatly inflames their mar- 
 tial temper, one of the most ancient of the 
 assembly, who has been appointed to open the 
 business of the meeting then rises : with great 
 eloquence, for in that they are very famous, 
 he announces the business of the meeting, makes 
 use of all the rhetoric he is master of, and declares 
 the motives that require their opinion, which 
 every one is at liberty to give, and the majority 
 of votes carries it. The result is immediately made 
 known by the sound of drums and trumpets. But 
 though the result is decisive, yet every one is 
 
154 
 
 allowed three days to reflect and consider deli- 
 berately on what has been proposed ; after which, 
 if they find no reason to retract their opinion, 
 the execution of the business is immediately set 
 about, and nothing suffered to impede or pro- 
 tract it. By such wise counsel and steadiness in 
 action, the Chilian Indians defended themselves 
 against the conquering sovereigns of Peru, who, 
 many times before the Spaniards came among 
 them, had endeavoured to bring these brave peo- 
 ple under their dominion, but were always re- 
 pulsed and driven back with shame to the 
 confines of their kingdom, notwithstanding the 
 Peruvian sovereigns had brought immense armies 
 of regular and well-disciplined troops, against 
 those who had nothing but valour and bravery to 
 oppose. They had neither fortresses, walls, or 
 fortifications of any sort ; and yet these brave 
 people constantly succeeded in compelling their 
 powerful enemy to disgraceful retreats. 
 
 But it cannot be wondered at, when we con- 
 sider the martial temper of the Chilians, and the 
 early care they took to make even infants ac- 
 quainted with their art of war. As soon as a 
 child is strong enough, they put him to run up 
 the side of a steep hill, among broken pieces of 
 rock, giving him that does it best some prize or 
 reward. This kind of exercise makes them very 
 light and quick of foot, possessing remarkable 
 
155 
 
 agility. I have myself seen them at their feasts 
 and entertainments run two and two for wagers 
 with wonderful swiftness. Those who show no 
 disposition for this exercise, are set apart to fol- 
 low day labour. The active they reserve for war, 
 not suffering them to follow any other employ- 
 ments, but to attend to their arms and their 
 horses, that they may be expert in every part of 
 their exercise. To these they assign their posts, 
 according as they have behaved themselves in any 
 affair in which they may have been engaged ; and, 
 they have, in this, no consideration of birth or 
 power, intercession of friends, or any other motive, 
 but the proof they have given of their conduct and 
 courage in the hour of battle. The arms they use 
 are pikes, halberts, lances, hatchets, bars, darts, 
 arrows, and clubs ; as also strong nooses to 
 throw upon a horseman, and several kinds of 
 slings. Their horse fight with lance and buck- 
 ler, which they have learned from the Spaniards. 
 Among them the pike-men may not be an archer ; 
 neither can any that bear the club make use of any 
 other weapon. 
 
 In forming their battalions, every file is above 
 an hundred men: between every pikeman are 
 archers, who are defended by the pikemen. Each 
 file advances with their shoulders close to each 
 other, and in very close columns ; so that if the 
 first battalion falls, the second instantly advances ; 
 
156 
 
 so that the Spaniards can never be certain whe 
 ther any have fallen or not : for they advance in 
 such close order that they resemble waves of the 
 sea, without any void space or interruption. No 
 man changing his step in advance but by death, 
 and which is instantly replaced from column to 
 column to the rear line. They always endeavour 
 to have some bog or lake not far from the scene 
 of action, to which they may retreat, if com- 
 pelled to seek it, which, whenever that happens 
 to be the case, is always effected in a most 
 masterly manner. When they raise any forts 
 for their defence, they are composed of great 
 trees interwoven with each other, leaving in 
 the centre a place of arms. Round the fort they 
 dig a deep ditch, in which they fix sharp stakes 
 to destroy the enemy's horse. They march to 
 the sound of drums and trumpets, and their arms 
 ornamented with a variety of beautiful colours, 
 and themselves with helmets adorned with plumes 
 of the richest and most striking colours. The 
 other parts of their dress are equally striking, 
 which, added to their martial air and handsome 
 persons, make altogether a most goodly sight, 
 more especially when they are advancing in 
 order of battle ; then the effect is great indeed, 
 even to those that are accustomed to them. 
 They have, at the head of every battalion, a 
 certain number of volunteers, who always march 
 
157 
 
 in advance, trailing their pikes, and haughtily 
 challenging the commander of the enemy to single 
 combat. When they draw up, and are ready to 
 engage, silence is commanded ; when their gene- 
 ral, for they never have but one, advancing in 
 front, and raising his voice, addresses them in, 
 as near as I can recollect, the following harangue, 
 as I once heard it : 
 
 " We are now going to encounter our enemies. 
 The glory of victory, or the never-ending shame 
 of a defeat are now before us. Take notice, there 
 is now no medium between these two extremes. 
 Are not you the sons and grandchildren of those 
 brave men who have fought so many battles, 
 and ventured all to defend that country and 
 liberty for which we now fight ? Shall we own 
 that they exceeded us in bravery, or that the ene- 
 mies we encounter are superior to those whom 
 they overcame ? Had they less motives than we 
 have, or do we hope for less glory ? We must 
 all die, and, in the equality of that common 
 fate, the only difference is dying nobly for our 
 dear country, and the liberty of our wives and 
 children. Therefore, arouse that courage you 
 have inherited from your ancestors, who never 
 could endure an infamous yoke of slavery upon 
 their necks. Courage then, brave men, as brave 
 as any the sun beholds. Courage, for in that lies 
 victory." With these, and similar expressions, 
 
158 
 
 calling to their recollection some of their former 
 victories, they advance to the attack, with so 
 much resolution and fury, that it is scarcely 
 possible for any battalion, however brave or dis- 
 ciplined, to withstand the shock of their first 
 onset. The war-shout has something in it very 
 appalling to an European; indeed it not only 
 confounds the men, but the Spanish horses are 
 affected by it; not unfrequently has the Spanish 
 army been thrown into disorder by it ; of this 
 the Indians immediately take advantage, and 
 rush on with the most uncommon intrepidity, 
 into the midst of their enemies, so as to fight 
 hand to hand, by which means they frequently 
 render useless the whole of the Spanish artillery, 
 they not being able to turn them upon the Indians, 
 without endangering their own people; under 
 these circumstances it is dreadful, the slaughter 
 which the Spaniards have but to frequently 
 sustained. 
 
 The warlike spirit of this nation, proceeds 
 from their natural temper, which is choleric, and 
 impatient, proud, arrogant, and fierce. They are 
 strong, and robust of body, well proportioned, 
 large shoulders, high chests, well set in the limbs, 
 nimble, active, vigorous, and nervous, courageous 
 to excess, enduring with the utmost patience, 
 hunger, thirst, heat, and cold: despising all 
 domestic comforts, setting no value on their lives, 
 
159 
 
 when put in competition with their liberty, which 
 they will hazard, in the face of the greatest dan- 
 gers, to preserve it, being considered by them as 
 the only good. They are constant in their reso- 
 lutions, and persist in any thing once begun 
 with incredible steadiness. They are excellent 
 horsemen, and, upon a single saddle cloth or with- 
 out one, they will set as firm as Europeans on 
 war-saddles : they will ride down the side of a 
 precipice, as if they were goats, with their bodies 
 as straight and as firm as if they were nailed to 
 the horse: they are not troubled with much store 
 of baggage : when they are on a march, every 
 man carries with him his provisions, which con- 
 sists of a small bag of flour of maize, a little 
 salt, some guinea pepper and dried flesh; a 
 small calabash, in which, when arrived at a spring, 
 they open the flour bag, and wet a little with 
 the water, and that serves them for drink ; when 
 they put more of it with a little salt and pepper, 
 they call it Rabel, and sometimes they eat the 
 maize dry, with slices of dried flesh. Thus 
 very little is required to fit them fora long march. 
 At the time of the Spaniards' arrival among them, 
 the population of Chili was very numerous. 
 They had no regular built cities or towns, for they 
 cannot even now bear any formal constraint, but 
 love to live free in the fields, some in one valley, 
 and some in another; some at the foot of moun- 
 
160 
 
 tains, others on the side of rivers ; some by the 
 sea-side ; all just as it pleases or suits their in- 
 clinations; but all under no other form of govern- 
 ment than the will of their cacique, to whom 
 they uniformly yield the most prompt obedi- 
 ence. Their houses are generally of wood, of only 
 one floor, but divided into several apartments, 
 each apartment constructed by itself; so that 
 when they have a mind to remove to another si- 
 tuation, they carry away the house by a room at 
 a time, which about twenty men can easily effect. 
 They first clear the ground about it on the out- 
 side, and then with a cry of Yo yo, they take 
 hold of the posts, and lifting it altogether they 
 easily carry it away : their doors are of the same 
 materials, but they have neither hinges or locks; 
 their security consisting in each other's fidelity, 
 which they sacredly observe toward each other; 
 their furniture is very simple, nothing more than 
 necessaries, which they cannot do without, as all 
 superfluities are despised by them. Their beds 
 are made of skins of beasts, taken in hunting, a 
 pillow made of a piece of wood covered also with 
 skins, and one or two coarse coverlets': lately, 
 however, they have taken to have hammocks'; they 
 have no utensils of gold or silver, though they have 
 so much in their country : their dinner service 
 consists of a few earthenware dishes, and wooden 
 spoons or sea shells, a calabash or gourd to drink 
 
161 
 
 out of, and the leaf of a tree for a salt-cellar : 
 this is all the apparatus of their table, which is 
 generally a low bench, without a table-cloth, and 
 only a small bunch of herbs on which they wipe 
 their hands. Their food is very simple and 
 easily cooked: it consists principally of maize, 
 variety of fruits and herbs, with gourds or beans : 
 also fish and the game they hunt, particularly 
 a species of small rabbits, named degues. At 
 their grand entertainments they provide great 
 quantities of beef and mutton, of which, since 
 the coming of the Spaniards they have great 
 abundance: for bread they eat rnaize boiled in 
 water, in the same manner as rice : their drink 
 they make of the maize baked first, then steeped 
 in water for a certain time ; after which it 
 is boiled, and set by to settle, and when fined, is 
 fit to drink : this is their common beverage, but 
 at their feasts they have other sorts, as in 
 Europe. 
 
 Their way of making flour is very different 
 from ours; they first bake their maize in large 
 earthen dishes, or put the dishes on the fire full 
 of sand, which remains till it is burning hot, 
 when they take it oft', and put the maize to the 
 hot sand : they then stir it about very fast, with 
 a small broom, and continue putting in fresh 
 maize, till they have toasted the quantity they 
 desire to make into flour. This they effect by 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 grinding it between two stones, one of which is 
 made hollow, about a foot and half diameter and 
 fixed in the ground: the maize being put into the 
 hollow stone, the women take another stone of 
 equal bigness, with the one fixed, but of an oval 
 figure; this they turn round very quickly with 
 their hands, and thus grind the maize to flour. 
 There is a small opening made below for the flour 
 to fall from into a trough : and it is very surprising- 
 how the women only accomplish this business, for 
 it appears to require the strength of a man, yet the 
 woman will contrive, in a very short space, to 
 make flour enough for her family, and her hus- 
 band to take with him on any expedition, either of 
 war or otherwise. The men never attend to any 
 domestic affairs, they consider it as disgraceful, 
 therefore the poor women are all exposed to very 
 laborious and wearisome employments ; yet they 
 seem to execute all with great cheerfulness and 
 alacrity, waiting on their husbands with as much 
 attention as if they were their slaves; indeed 
 they are never idle, but always occupied. 
 
 Their manner of clothing themselves is very 
 simple ; they have no linen, nor do they put on 
 one garment over another as we do. The dress 
 of the men consists of a pair of short drawers, 
 very wide, but reach no further than the knee ; 
 with a kind of waistcoat or shirt, which they call 
 maun : it is composed of about a yard and half 
 
163 
 
 of woollen stuff, not sewn together, but left open 
 about eight inches : through this opening they put 
 their head. The body is girded with a broad fillet 
 or band, something like a girdle; on their feet 
 they wear a kind of half boot with leather treads, 
 but the leg part made remarkably neat with wove 
 grass, so close, that neither water or cold can 
 penetrate. They wear on their heads a sort of 
 turban, composed of several circles of wool, with 
 long fringe, which they stir or pull off in token 
 of respect, for those they converse with; none 
 but the caciques, or aged men, wear on their 
 
 head more than one circle of wool ; neither do 
 i* 
 
 any wear them close on the crown of the head ; 
 that part is only shaded by the fringe. This dress, 
 simple as it is, has something in it very agreeable 
 to the eye, on account of the various and beauti- 
 ful colours, with which is dyed the wool : nothing, 
 indeed, can surpass it. When the men go from 
 home, they put on a chami, a kind of cloak or 
 mantle, which they fasten on their breast ; this 
 part of their dress imparts an air of elegance to 
 the wearer; but neither their arms or legs are 
 covered. Their ball dresses and those worn at 
 their feasts, though cut after the same fashion as 
 their ordinary clothes, are far more striking, they 
 being wove of finer \vool and more rich and 
 brilliant colours. They wear round their necks 
 chains of small shells; these necklacesare termed 
 
 M2 
 
 
164 
 
 naucas : their head ornaments are feathers and 
 humming-birds, which they neatly fasten to the 
 fringe of the circle of wool : the panaches of feathers 
 are generally of bright red, white, or blue, and 
 never less than from sixteen to twenty inches in 
 length. Their way of dancing is with little jumps, 
 and a step or two, not rising far from the ground, 
 nor capering ; they move altogether in a ring, 
 holding each other's hands, round a pole, which 
 one of them retains in the middle as a standard, 
 round which are set bottles of wine : of these 
 they every now and then take, poured into a 
 large calabash: but they do not drink alone: he 
 that begins, drinks to his neighbour ; then he who 
 has drunk, pledges his next friend, and so the 
 cup goes round, till it is empty : and this they 
 continue for a whole night, dancing, drinking, 
 and pledging each other, till, at length, they are 
 all drunk; and then they lie down upon the 
 ground, for it is an invariable custom with them 
 never to leave drinking as long as they can stand. 
 Their flutes which they play upon in those dances, 
 are made of the bones of the Spaniards, and other 
 enemies whom they have killed in war: this 
 they do by way of triumph for their victories, 
 they make them also of the bones of animals, 
 but the Indians of war, dance to no other but 
 those of their enemies. Their way of singing 
 is to raise their voices altogether, upon the same 
 
UNIVERSITY ! 
 
 OF 
 
 FORN\/ _.,. 
 
 ]6^> 
 
 wild note, without any difference in parts or 
 measure ; at the end of every song, they play 
 upon their flutes and trumpets, just as we do upon 
 our guitars ; this they repeat so often and so 
 loud, that they are heard at a great distance ; 
 for at their feasts they are very numerous. 
 Those who are not engaged in xlancing, sit toge- 
 ther in parties, and take wine, and talk of past 
 occurrences ; but it sometimes happens that over 
 their wine, they will recollect past injuries 
 that have not been revenged. Whenever this 
 occurs, they get up, fall a fighting in good ear- 
 nest, and frequently kill one another for a mere 
 trifle : but to prevent such an affair as much as 
 possible, the women are constantly upon the 
 watch, for they never dance with the men. When 
 as soon as they notice any symptoms of anger 
 rising they straightway interfere, and if the men 
 are not too drunk they succeed in keeping 
 peace. 
 
 The women as well as the men have their arms 
 and feet naked, but no other part; their dress is 
 a long woollen robe fastened on the shoulders, with 
 no linen underneath; this robe reaches to the 
 ground, and is gathered in round the waist in large 
 plaits. They are swathed from the breast to the 
 bottom of the waist, with a fine coloured wool 
 scarf, about four inches in breadth; which, by 
 passing it round the body several times, keeps the 
 
166" 
 
 women as straight and shapely as the finest stays. 
 This composes the whole of the women's dress 
 within doors : when they go abroad, they put upon 
 their shoulders a mantle, which they fasten on the 
 breast with a clasp of the same form as those on 
 the shoulders. They wear nothing on their heads 
 but their long hair plaited, and hanging down in 
 various ways behind their shoulders : the front has 
 it parted on the top of the head, which they bring 
 forward to their eye-brows, leaving two small 
 locks on each cheek. 
 
 The Indian women of the better sort that live 
 in town, among the Spaniards, have learned the 
 use of linen, and waistcoats under their robe, 
 but they cannot be brought to adopt any other 
 part of the European dress. To attempt to put 
 any thing upon their heads or arms, would be to 
 affront them, for they hold in abhorrence every 
 thing that differs from their ancient customs. 
 This manner of clothing themselves never 
 changes, and of course fashions never vary, of 
 which the Indians have not the smallest notion. 
 Such is the simplicity of their household furni- 
 ture, and every thing pertaining to domestic life, 
 that they cannot be supposed to have much bu- 
 siness for artificers of any kind, and of course 
 they must have a greater number of soldiers, 
 the character to which they all aspire, as the 
 being a soldier is their sole pride and ambition. 
 
167 
 
 They do riot imitate other nations in the splen- 
 dour of their palaces, furniture, riches, arts, or 
 learning ; of all which the Indians never had the 
 least idea ; and yet they possess abilities to attain 
 any knowledge, as may be gathered from seeing 
 those Indians who belong to his Majesty : with 
 what readiness they will learn any thing they are 
 directed to know ; and, when taught, whatever 
 it may be, they execute it with such correctness 
 and perfection as surpasses an European. Al- 
 though they can neither read nor write, yet they 
 are very dexterous at keeping accounts, which 
 they do with their quipoes, a sort of line of 
 different bigness, in which they make knots of 
 several colours : by these they will keep as regu- 
 lar an account of any thing committed to their 
 care, as though it were written in a book. With 
 these alone they will give an account of a 
 considerable flock of sheep, will tell when and 
 what number have been used by the family, what 
 by the shepherd, whether any died of sickness or 
 casualty ; and with every particular that hap- 
 pened upon any occasion, and what was done or 
 said. When they go to confess, these quipoes 
 serve them to remember their sins, and tell them 
 with distinction and clearness. They have, be- 
 sides, excellent memories, and will relate things 
 of long standing with as much accuracy as if they 
 had been done but the day before. To prove the 
 
168 
 
 care they take to keep the memory of remarkable 
 occurrences, I will relate what I learned from 
 Father Diego Torres Bollo, a very excellent 
 man, both for holiness of life, and skill in go- 
 vernment. 
 
 This great man, returning from Rome, whi- 
 ther he had been sent as procurator of the pro- 
 vince of Pern, to found the province of Quito, he 
 saw in a place where four ways met, an Indian, 
 who, to the sound of a drum, was singing a great 
 many things all alone, in his own tongue. The 
 father called one of his company who understood 
 it, and asked him what that Indian meant by 
 the action and tone of his voice. He answered, 
 the Indian was the register of the country, who, 
 to keep up the memory of what had passed in it, 
 from the deluge to that time, was bound every 
 holiday to repeat it with the sound of a drum and 
 singing, as he was then doing : he was moreover 
 obliged to instruct others in the same way, that 
 there might be a succession of men to do the 
 same thing after he was gone ; and he was 
 at this time singing, that, in such a year, there 
 had been there a white man, called Thomas, 
 preaching a new law which in time was lost and 
 forgotten. By this you may see the means by 
 which the Indians supply the want of books and 
 writings. The women of Chili partake in the 
 courage of the men, for, on any emergency, they 
 
169 
 
 take arms, and fight as bravely as the bravest. 
 The women play likewise at a very active game, 
 called la chucca, wherein the men shew their 
 greatest agility and quickness. Each side striving 
 to get a ball from the other, and carry it to a 
 mark with crooked sticks. They are about forty 
 or fifty on a side, who place themselves in dif- 
 ferent posts, so as readily to assist each other to 
 drive away the ball from the opposite party ; and 
 when it happens, that two of different sides are 
 engaged together, it is a pleasure to see them 
 run, the one to forward it with another stroke, 
 and the other to get before him, and hinder him 
 from striking it, that he may drive it back to his 
 own side. This is a very agreeable sport to wit- 
 ness, and therefore has many spectators to see 
 the end of the game, which often lasts a whole 
 evening, and sometimes is forced to be put off 
 to another day. Such vast contention there is to 
 win the prize, which is given by their caciques, 
 without the smallest partiality either to man or 
 woman. I have myself seen a party of women 
 win two prizes successively, their play being ad- 
 judged as superior to that of the men, and there- 
 fore deserving superior reward. This game the 
 Spaniards are very fond of seeing. 
 
 The strength of the women arises from the 
 little tenderness in which they are bred : they 
 never avoid either heat or cold in the severest 
 
170 
 
 winter ; they wash their heads in the coldest 
 spring- water, and never dry, or even wring their 
 hair, which is always very long and thick ; but 
 leave it to dry itself in the air. As for their 
 children they are washed in the river or fountain 
 every day, even when they are infants, and 
 that at all seasons of the year. There is likewise 
 very little care taken of the women when they 
 are brought to bed, for they are commonly about 
 their usual avocations in the house in the course 
 of a couple of days. 
 
 If the women are thus hardy, what may not be 
 supposed of the men. 1 have seen them in the 
 severest weather, with nothing more on them 
 than the simple habit 1 have described ; their 
 head bare, without hat or any other covering, 
 in the most tremendous showers of rain, 
 which absolutely drenched them, and then they 
 laughed, and thought nothing of it. By these 
 means, they are so hardened, that with a wound 
 for which a Spaniard would keep his bed, they 
 go about their ordinary occupation, without 
 giving it the smallest attention further than to 
 wash it with cold water, and then apply herbs 
 to it. But this is much owing to the strength of 
 their constitution, which is their most effectual 
 physician in distempers as well as wounds. 
 
 From this strength of body springs the ad- 
 mirable patience of their rninds, and the little 
 
17 1< 
 
 sense they show of that which, amongst us 
 Europeans, would be a most aggravated evil. 
 These Indians of Chili are the fairest of all 
 America ; but I do not remember ever having 
 seen one with light hair, all, both men and 
 women, have uniformly black, and that very 
 rough, hard, and thick. By this peculiarity, the 
 child of a Spanish man and an Indian woman 
 are easily known, for, it is not till the second and 
 third generation that the hair softens. With 
 this exception, there is very little difference 
 between the Spaniard and the Indian, either 
 in their voice or manner of speaking, or in 
 shape or feature ; and, as for the language, 
 not only the Mestizos, but the Indians bred 
 among the Spaniards, are as ready at the 
 phrase and turn of the Spanish tongue as any 
 of the Spaniards. The good constitution of the 
 Indians hinders them from feeling the effect of 
 years as Europeans; they do not early turn 
 grey, for, till threescore or thereabouts, they look 
 like young men. If you see an Indian with grey 
 hair, or any baldness, you may then guess him 
 to be about a hundred years of age. Both men 
 and women, but particularly women, attain to 
 great age, and have the happiness to retain 
 their memory unimpaired to the last, even to 
 remember all the particulars of the early days 
 of their infancy. They seldom lose either their 
 
172 
 
 sight or their teeth. In short, all the infir- 
 mities incident to old age comes to them much 
 later than to other nations. But yet, if they go 
 out of their country, they presently lose all their 
 vigour, and become infirm; as we experience 
 daily in our prisoners of war, who, being sold as 
 slaves to Peru, as soon as they feel the heat of 
 the tropics, they fall sick, and most of them die. 
 This, indeed, is no more than what happens to 
 the Spaniards, when they come from their mother 
 country to Porto Bello, or Panama. Nay, the 
 Spaniards born in Chili risk their lives when 
 they go to those countries that are between the 
 tropics. From the experience which the Indians 
 have of the hotter countries, proceeds the great 
 reluctancy they always shew to go out of their 
 own ; and the resentment they express against 
 those who carry or send them from their home. 
 It is not to be imagined the strange and rash 
 contrivances they have to make their escape from 
 Lima, for though they have above five hundred 
 leagues to reach their own homes from Peru, yet 
 they undertake the immense journey, and most 
 commonly succeed through dangers and difficul- 
 ties that would soon destroy an European. They 
 are obliged to keep their course by the sea-side, 
 that being their only guide. To what toil and 
 danger they must every moment be exposed, 
 since they are obliged to compass all the bays, 
 
173 
 
 and double all the capes, besides the many rivers 
 and other waters they must pass over, and that 
 without food or clothing ; nothing to support 
 nature, but what shell-fish they may meet with 
 on the shores, and often, perhaps, without being 
 able to obtain a drop of fresh water. But all this 
 the Indian overcomes by time, and the most un- 
 subdued patience, and reaches again his be- 
 loved country. He thinks nothing can be of such 
 value as liberty, or that it can be too dearly pur- 
 chased. Such is invariably the fortitude of the 
 Indian. 
 
 They solemnize their marriages in a very con- 
 trary manner to that of the Europeans, for as to 
 the portion, the woman's parents do not provide 
 it. The man is obliged to give a portion for her, 
 but neither of them reap any advantage from it, 
 as it becomes the property of the maiden's father. 
 They take many wives, and the greatest obstacle 
 to their conversion to our religion, is this vice 
 of polygamy, which they practise without the 
 least constraint, thinking it the surest sign of 
 power and greatness. The first wife has some 
 pre-eminence over the others, and can command 
 them to do as she requires : yet they all look 
 upon themselves as lawful wives, and their 
 children as legitimate : yet the son of the first 
 inherits the estates, enjoys the honour of cacique, 
 and has a power over his brothers. The subjects 
 
174 
 
 obey their lord with great punctuality, love, and 
 respect. They, therefore, have no rebellious 
 subjects, and need no prisons, nor is there among 
 all the Indians a single place of confinement. 
 The natural love and respect they bear their 
 cacique is a law inviolable in their hearts, which 
 they constantly shew upon all occasions. When 
 a cacique has a reason to make war, he need not 
 make provision for pay or any other concomitant. 
 He need only issue his orders, and they imme- 
 diately repair to his standard, properly equipped 
 with arms and horses, bearing their own 
 charges during the whole of the expedition. 
 By arrangements like these, the caciques are 
 always enabled to assemble a large army at 
 very short notice, for they all consider the 
 common cause as their own, and they make the 
 good of their country the motive to arm. They 
 think themselves amply rewarded, if they can 
 defend that from their enemies. The sound of 
 the drum and trumpet is the only signal necessary 
 to call them to the standard, and to conquer or 
 die their only motto. In the distribution of the 
 booty and slaves taken in war, there is no other 
 method adopted, than that every man is at liberty 
 to keep whatever he can get, so that the bravest 
 and most active are always best provided, with- 
 out being obliged to give any part of it to his 
 general ; for, except the general that leads them, 
 
175 
 
 they are all equal, valour alone making' any 
 distinction, which they always show in an emi- 
 nent degree, whenever they are opposed to the 
 Spaniards, being constantly upon the watch to 
 gain some of our guns, swords, or lances, as they 
 have no iron of their own. When they return 
 from war, and find how many men they have 
 lost, the lamentations and cries of the women 
 are beyond belief; but though this method of 
 expressing grief be a common sentiment of feel- 
 ing among all nations, yet the Indian women 
 certainly surpass all others. 
 
 When a man dies at home, the manner of ex- 
 pressing their sorrow is still more remarkable, 
 for the women all get about the dead body, and 
 the eldest beginning, the others follow in the 
 same tone of voice, screaming as loud as they 
 can ; and thus continue their lamentations with- 
 out ceasing, till they all are exhausted, when 
 they drop on the ground with absolute fatigue. 
 This noisy ceremony they preserve even after 
 they are baptized, and live among Christians. 
 They have also a custom of opening the dead 
 bodies to know of what disease they died, and 
 putting meat and drink and clothes into the 
 graves, and every thing of value the deceased 
 was fond of whilst living. When they have 
 buried the dead, they raise over their bodies a 
 sort of pyramid, to raise which every relative 
 
176 
 
 carries to the grave one large stone, the eldest 
 laying the first, and so on till it finishes in a 
 point, which is placed there by the youngest of 
 the family. But none of these last ceremonies 
 are now practised by the converted Indians, ex- 
 cept the weeping and lamentations. 
 
 I shall now proceed to give you some account 
 of the first conquest of Chili. The Adelantado 
 Almagro, being returned in the year 1537 to 
 Cuzco, Colonel Pedro Valdi via, desired permission 
 from the Adelantado Pizarroto pursue the conquest 
 of Chili. He promised not to return till he had 
 completed the subjection. The Adelantado had 
 it in his thoughts to pursue this conquest, on 
 account of the fame of its great riches ; therefore, 
 did not hesitate to grant the colonel the leave he 
 requested, as he knew him to be one of the 
 bravest captains that had come to India, and 
 had acquired fame in Italy before he came to 
 Peru. Pizarro immediately invested the colonel 
 with full powers to complete the conquest of 
 Chili in 1539. Valdivia lost no time in forming 
 an army composed of Spaniards and tributary 
 Indians of Peru ; and, early in the year 1540, left 
 Cuzco with a large body of men, and also 
 a considerable number of volunteers; the fame 
 of the riches of Chili having animated every 
 one to this enterprise. The persuasive man- 
 ners of Valdivia added not a little, for he was 
 
177 
 
 a man of fine address. Their march was long 
 and arduous; while the severity of the cold, with 
 hunger and thirst, greatly delayed their advance : 
 at length, however, they arrived on the confines 
 of Chili, and halted in the valley of Copiapo, 
 which signifies the Turquois, a beautiful blue 
 stone, of which in this valley there is a large 
 rock. The valley of Copiapo is the first of 
 the inhabited valleys of Chili : the greater part 
 of the population is Indian^ there being very few 
 Spaniards, but one of them which is theCorregidor, 
 appointed by the governor of Chili. The land is 
 of itself very fruitful, and is rendered more so 
 by the advantage of a fine river that runs through 
 it for near twenty leagues before it empties itself 
 into the sea, in a bay which forms a commodious 
 harbour. Here grow all the natural grains and 
 fruits of the country, together with those of 
 Europe. The maize }ields above three hundred 
 for one ; the ears of it being generally half a yard 
 long: all other grain and fruits are in the 
 same profusion. I am not informed as to the 
 reception Valdivia met with from the Indians ; 
 but we are led to think he did not encounter 
 much opposition. They had, indeed, already seen 
 and received Spaniards out of respect to the Inga 
 Tan Is, who had accompanied Almagro from 
 Peru, at the time when that great man restored 
 them their lawful cacique, and took the usurper 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 prisoner. On this account, it is presumed, they 
 had the same facility in the valley Guasco 
 about thirty leagues from Copiapo, and that of 
 Coquimbo Limari, and as far as Quillota. 
 
 Here the Indians took up arms, and, for the 
 first time, in a most gallant and glorious manner 
 opposed the further progress of their invaders: 
 But Valdivia, not at all disheartened, although 
 he daily lost great numbers of men, yet, by the 
 advantage of his cavalry, of which the Indians 
 were more afraid than of the whole of his army, 
 he still continued to advance, and penetrated as 
 far as the valley Mapocho. He found this valley 
 extremely well peopled, on account of its breadth, 
 fertility, and pleasantness. The inhabitants, 
 alarmed at the appearance of those strangers, 
 as soon as they saw them about to throw up a 
 defence as if they intended to make good their 
 footing among them, instantly summoned an 
 assembly of their caciques, in which it was de- 
 cided to arm and drive the intruders back. 
 They were prompt in the execution of their 
 resolves; and attacked the Spaniards with great 
 fury ; but the Spaniards, by the bravery of 
 their horse, succeeded in daily driving the In- 
 dians back, till they had raised a fort in which 
 they could place their guns, and had forti- 
 fied their camp. The governor, being deter- 
 mined to lay the foundation of a city, and make 
 
179 
 
 good his lodgment there, as soon as the fort was 
 finished, he began to mark out the ground; but 
 his troops were disposed to murmur : for, although 
 they saw the richness and fertility of the country, 
 yet they were so much harassed by the Indians 
 that they thought the conquest would be too 
 dearly purchased, for they could not obtain even 
 provisions, much less gold, but by desperately 
 fighting for it : they therefore proposed returning 
 to Peru. The governor Valdivia, though not 
 ignorant of the difficulty of his enterprise, was, 
 notwithstanding, encouraged by the hopes of 
 success at last ; and, by dint of persuasion and 
 promises, he prevailed upon them to wait a little 
 longer; at the same time, he sent off seventy 
 men towards the river Cachapoal, to obtain pro- 
 visions. During their absence, the Indians, as 
 soon as they knew it, determined, with all their 
 force, to attack the fort and entrenchments of 
 the Spaniards ; and they would have succeeded 
 fully in their enterprise, had not Providence or- 
 dained, that the seventy absent men should re- 
 turn even at the moment when all the out- 
 works had been carried by the Indians. But 
 coming up at this critical juncture, they, with 
 incredible valour, cut their way to the fort, and 
 happily preserved it, driving back the Indians 
 with great slaughter. This victory gave them 
 new spirits, and the provisions they had also pro- 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 cured opened fairer prospects ; for the governor 
 immediately took advantage of the defeat, and 
 sent a messenger to the Indians, to propose terms 
 of peace and accommodation, which, though 
 long debated, was, at length, entered into. The 
 Indians, upon stipulated conditions, agreed to 
 let the Spaniards remain in possession of the 
 ground they then occupied, to aid them with 
 provisions, and to procure the governor as much 
 gold as they possibly could obtain. 
 
 As soon as these conditions were settled, the 
 governor lost no time in quieting his men, and 
 reconciling them to the losses they had sustained. 
 He set nearly twenty thousand Indians to work 
 in the mines of Quillota, which produced an 
 immense quantity of gold in a short time, but 
 he found it soon necessary to build a fort at 
 the mines to protect his men, and also to 
 send to Peru for a reinforcement, as his troops 
 were greatly reduced by the continual skir- 
 mishes in which they had been engaged. At 
 the same time, he sent an account of the riches 
 of the mines, and the fertility every where 
 around him. This account, he presumed, would 
 incite many to come and join him : and, to 
 confirm it by ocular demonstration, he sent 
 thirty-six of his people, in whom he could con- 
 fide, laden with gold ; while every part of their 
 horses' furniture, which used to be of iron, 
 
181 
 
 lie caused to be made of gold, the stirrups 
 being very large, on purpose to display the 
 plenty they had of that rich metal. But this 
 design was frustrated, for, on their arrival at 
 the valley of Copiapo, they were set upon by 
 the Indians, and all but two were killed ; these 
 two were officers, named Pedro de Miranda and 
 Mon Roy ; they escaped by the aid of their 
 horses, but pursued by the Indians, and their 
 horses tiring, they were overtaken by an Indian 
 captain of archers, his name Cateo, and were 
 immediately conveyed to the cacique with their 
 hands tied behind them. This cacique was 
 married to the heiress of all the valley, as their 
 inheritances follow the women for the security 
 of the right line ; but when the two captives 
 were in expectation of instant death, it pleased 
 God to inspire the cacique's wife with compas- 
 sion for them; for she went herself, and untied 
 their hands, and, commanding their wounds to 
 be dressed, gave them cordials of the Indians 
 to drink, having first drank herself, as a token 
 of friendship and safety : she also bade them 
 take courage, for they should not die. When 
 these two brave men were thus restored, as it 
 were, from death to life, they kneeled at her 
 feet, and declared themselves ready to become 
 her voluntary slaves, since, by her favour, they 
 enjoyed a life which they had given up for lost. 
 
182 
 
 They were six months in this captivity, but 
 treated by the Indians with the greatest huma- 
 nity and kindness ; yet, notwithstanding this 
 gentle usage they could not be happy. The 
 natural desire they had of returning to their 
 friends, and wishes for liberty, put them upon 
 continual schemes to effect it. At length, they 
 fixed on one, which, though hazardous in the 
 extreme, they determined to accomplish, or die 
 in the attempt. The cacique had been much 
 taken with their horses, and frequently ex- 
 pressed a desire to learn to ride. The officers 
 undertook to teach him to ride and manage the 
 horse, and, for this purpose, they used to go to 
 a plain at some distance from his house, the 
 cacique always attended by a guard of archers, 
 and one man immediately before, bearing a lance, 
 and another behind with a drawn sword, one 
 of those which had been taken from the 
 Spaniards. Miranda and Mon Roy having de- 
 cidecftm their plan, they took the opportunity, 
 when the cacique was mounted, exercising his 
 horse, one to seize the sword, and the other 
 the lance, with which they slightly wounded, 
 and dismounted him, and seizing each a 
 horse, instantly mounted, and whilst the In- 
 dians were crowding with the utmost grief and 
 astonishment round their chief, they effected 
 their escape, and got safe to Peru, where, at 
 
183 
 
 that time, they found the government in the hands 
 of the Licenciado Vaes de Castro. 
 
 These two captains, were gentlemen of great 
 families, and to this day the Mirandas, in Chili, 
 are the flower of the nobility of that kingdom. 
 As for the Mon Roys, they are so well known in 
 Castille, that it is needless to say more of them 
 than that they are great and noble. 
 
 They were well received by his Excellency, who 
 was extremely satisfied with the news they brought; 
 and considering it of the first importance to fur- 
 ther the conquest, he sent succours thither imme- 
 diately, as also arms, ammunition, and clothing 
 for the soldiers, who were almost naked. Cap- 
 tain Pastene, a gentleman of an illustrious house 
 in Genoa, who had engaged in the conquest of 
 the New World, from the same desire of glory that 
 prompted others, and to mend his fortune, was 
 appointed to conduct these succours. He happen- 
 ing then to be in Peru, the viceroy selected him 
 for the king's service, and sent him immediately to 
 Chili to relieve the Spaniards there, who were re- 
 duced to great distress, owing to the continual as- 
 saults of the Indians; they were not only reduced in 
 numbers but were confined to the fort of St. Jago, 
 which they had much ado to keep possession of, it 
 being the only shelter they had left. Herrera says, 
 that with these succours which Valdivia received, 
 he determined to make further discoveries ; he 
 
184 
 
 therefore advanced, with the aid of the people 
 called Pramacaes: he was, however, compelled to 
 fight his way both advancing and retreating, but 
 having effected the object of his march, he re- 
 turned to St. Jago, and sent back to Peru the 
 general Pastene, to give an account of the further 
 knowledge he had obtained of the country, and 
 the warlike spirit of the inhabitants, which re- 
 quired still greater succours to be sent, in order to 
 establish garrisons in every part where they might 
 find it necessary to venture a settlement. Valdivia 
 also found it requisite to found a city close to the 
 mines, in the valley of Coquimbo, which he named 
 Serina; this was the second establishment founded 
 in Chili, in the year 1544. It is in a very pleasant 
 and fruitful valley, abounding with every requisite 
 necessary for the comfort and convenience of life; 
 for it yields corn, wine, and oil, in abundance; 
 cattle of all kinds, with fruit and grain even su- 
 perior to Bosago. But that which the Spaniards 
 value it for most, is the great abundance of gold, 
 copper, and lead : so that although they have at 
 this time given over the search for gold, in every 
 other part of Chili, yet in this place they continue 
 gathering it more or less as the weather is more or 
 less rainy ; for when it rains much, the mountains 
 have the earth washed away, which leaving large 
 fissures in the rock, the gold is more readily dis- 
 covered and more easily obtained. Copper, like- 
 
385 
 
 wise, is in such quantities as to be able to supply 
 all the kingdom as well as Peru. 
 
 The governor Valdivia, having spent the year 
 1550, in peopling the city of the Conception, and 
 defending himself in his fort and camp, against 
 the continual attacks of Indians ; at the same time, 
 he informed himself more exactly of the country 
 and its fertility, by means of captain Hyeronimo 
 de Alderete, whom he had sent out to reconnoitre, 
 as far in the country as he could without dis- 
 covery: this business he happily accomplished, 
 and brought back very satisfactory accounts of 
 the country and the probable number of its in- 
 habitants. 
 
 This important information being gained, the 
 governor Valdivia determined to leave the ( on- 
 ception or Senna, and go on to pursue his con- 
 quests ; therefore, as soon as the fort was well 
 provided with all things, and leaving a good gar- 
 rison, he set out in the beginning of the year 155 J. 
 He took his army by the plains of Angol, cross- 
 ing first the great River Biobia, and continuing 
 his march to the river Cauten, which, from its 
 tranquil stream, is called the Ladies 1 Kiver: here 
 he found numerous settlements of Indians who 
 had never before seen a Spaniard or a horse ; the 
 appearance, therefore, of those Spaniards on horse- 
 back, the noise of their fire-arms, and the bring 
 able to kill at a distance, together with the com- 
 
186 
 
 plexion of the Spaniards, so different from their 
 own, induced those innocent people to imagine 
 they were Epunamones, or gods ; that they were 
 immortal and had power to send out thunder- 
 bolts like the Supreme Being ; and when a piece 
 of ordnance was discharged, they imagined it 
 thundered, and that the balls were thunderbolts. 
 But even, supposing the Spaniards to be men, 
 they considered them to be Viracochas, or scum of 
 the sea, sent by God to subject them for their sins. 
 Thus they readily received them as messengers 
 from God, and instantly supplied them with every 
 thing they had to offer, and made signs that they 
 were ready to obey them in all things. 
 
 This unexpected meeting with such vast tribes 
 of peaceable Indians, induced the governor to 
 found here the city of Imperial, as it appeared to 
 be one of the most pleasant and fruitful districts 
 they had found ; being about four leagues from 
 the sea and thirty-nine from the Conception, and 
 a hundred and nine from the city of St. Jago, in 
 thirty-nine degrees of south latitude. This city was 
 the fourth that had been founded by the Spaniards, 
 and being in peaceable possession of whatever ter- 
 ritory they thought proper to fix upon, the governor 
 divided it into lordships, and gave to each of his 
 followers an adequate portion, that he might con- 
 tent all, arid induce them to enter heartily into his 
 views: he took for himself the lordship of Araeneo 
 
187 
 
 and Turapal as far as Puren. Thus having- satis- 
 fied all, nd placed a good garrison in the city of 
 Imperial, he marched with his troops to the river 
 Vaklivia, where he found great numbers of Indians 
 on the opposite side of the river, readv to dis- 
 pute his passage ; nor would he have found it an 
 easy matter to accomplish, had not a brave Indian 
 lady interposed, whose name was Kulorna. She 
 alone undertook to prevail on the Indians on the 
 opposite shore, to permit Valdivia and his people 
 to pass the river unmolested. This being effected, 
 and not being much opposed by the natives, the 
 governor here founded the city and fort of Valdivia. 
 Whilst he was engaged in perfecting this work, 
 he sent out Hyeronimo Adderita, to discover the 
 country as far as the Cordillera Nevada, which he 
 accomplished. He informed the governor that it 
 being the richest he had yet seen, he had founded 
 a town and called it Villa Rica, on account of ihe 
 abundance which every where presented itself. 
 
 These were the cities founded by Valdivia, but 
 they cost more blood to maintain them, than the 
 conquest was worth, as it proved afterwards ; when 
 the Indians began to find that their visiters were 
 not gods, but mortals like themselves, and far more 
 wicked, treacherous and deceitful. It was now 
 discovered that their grand, if not their sole, ol>ject 
 was the pursuit of gold ; to attain which they 
 would trample with impunity on all laws, divine 
 
188 
 
 and human, despising all treaties, and regarding 
 the natives as herds of savages created only for 
 their service, and to be slaves to their cruelty and 
 avarice. As soon, therefore, as they found what 
 the actual designs of the Spaniards were, and that 
 the mines were the only objects of their pursuits, 
 the Indians determined to rise unanimously and 
 oppose with all their strength the further advances 
 of such avaricious and cruel tyrants ; and from 
 that period to this, they have never laid down 
 their arms. 
 
 The climate of this city is certainly the most 
 temperate in all the kingdom. The winter, which, 
 in other parts, is, at times, very sharp, particularly 
 nearer the pole, is here so gentle that it is hardly 
 perceived. It is within five or six degrees of the 
 tropic, and twenty-ninth degree of latitude, the 
 longest day being fourteen hours on the eleventh of 
 December ; the shortest day is on the eleventh of 
 June, the night is then fourteen hours long. The 
 accidental situation of the city also assists the gene- 
 ral mildness of the atmosphere, being within two 
 leagues of the sea, with an intervening, elevated 
 plain, covered with myrtles, and commanding a 
 fine view of the sea, which here forms a noble 
 bay. This city was soon inhabited by many noble 
 families, the founders being men of the first qua- 
 lity, and their descendants still maintain the lustre 
 of their ancestors. The governor-general ap- 
 
189 
 
 points the place of Corregidor, which is one of the 
 most profitable, on account of the vicinity of the 
 mines ; but notwithstanding all these advantages, 
 it does not increase in population so fast as that of 
 St. Jago. 
 
 About the time that general Pastene reached 
 Peru to demand the succours requisite for gaining 
 possession of Chili, he found the whole country 
 in confusion, caused by the ungovernable spirit of 
 Gon^alo Pizarro ; so that the parent government 
 wanted relief itself, instead of sending it to the 
 aid of others ; this was a serious disappointment 
 to Pastene, to find the standard of revolt set up 
 by the man who should of all others be the last to 
 throw off his allegiance. Pastene was too loyal a 
 subject to join Pizarro's faction ; he therefore deter- 
 mined to return immediately to Chili, and bring 
 from thence all the force the governor could spare, 
 which intention coming to the knowledge of Pi- 
 zarro, he by stratagem got possession of the ship 
 in which Pastene was to return, and his person into 
 his power, in the hope that either by promises or 
 threats, he might be able to prevail upon him to 
 join his party. But Pizarro quickly found that 
 Pastene was not to be wrought upon either by 
 flattery or threats ; and while he was deliberating 
 in what manner to dispose of him now he was in 
 his power, Pastene found means to make his escape 
 and to recover his ship; when he immediately 
 
190 
 
 sailed for Chili, not doubting but the governor 
 and his principal officers would march directly 
 for Peru, and join the king's forces that had not 
 been seduced by Pizarro. On his arrival at St. Jago 
 with this unwelcome news, the governor resolved 
 to go thither in person to assist the king's forces/ 
 and take with him the flower of his own. As 
 his Lieutenant during his absence, he appointed 
 Captain Francisco cle Villagia, a gentleman every 
 way qualified for such important post, to govern 
 and protect what we had already in that kingdom. 
 He got together what gold he could, and hastened 
 on board, with his officers and men, in the same 
 ship commanded by general Pastene. When they 
 arrived, they found Pizarro's force very consider- 
 able, and that he had put to death the Viceroy 
 Blaseo Nunes Vela. The arrival of Valdivia with 
 the force and gold that he brought with him soon 
 changed the face of affairs, and recalled numbers 
 to the royal standard ; so that in a very short time, 
 Valdivia's army was in a condition to force Pizarro 
 to battle in the valley of Quiraguana, where he 
 fell, together with the greater part of his associates; 
 when peace and good order was thus restored, and 
 Valdivia, with a considerable reinforcement, re- 
 turned to Chili, with a determination of following 
 up his former intended enterprise: but all the 
 troops he brought with him, and the several rein- 
 forcements he afterwards received, proved inade- 
 
191 
 
 quate to enable him to make head against the de- 
 termined bravery of the Indians, who not only 
 kept them from advancing-, but, for six years toge- 
 ther, reduced the Spaniards to the greatest extre- 
 mities of hunger, cold, and nakedness, indeed to 
 every kind of want and privation ; their principal 
 food for a considerable time being rats and mice, 
 and the herbs or roots that grew wild, so that many 
 died for want of adequate sustenance. But still, 
 the brave heart of the governor remained invin- 
 cible; he endured all the hardships in common with 
 his men, still hoping he should finally succeed. 
 Influenced by these hopes, his ardent mind did 
 not relax from its pursuit, while any means were 
 in his power to maintain him in it. 
 
 The governor Valdivia being once more arrived 
 at St. Jago ; and finding the garrison tolerably 
 secure, thought of nothing but pursuing his con- 
 quest, and immediately made preparations for his 
 march, having mustered the succours he brought 
 with him, and having relieved his garrisons, he 
 regarded his force as strong enough to pursue his 
 expedition ; he therefore set out with his new army, 
 in the year 1550, and having passed with little 
 opposition the deep river Maul, the wide Itata, 
 and arriving on the banks of the Audalien, he found 
 it a very convenient spot for^his army to halt and re- 
 fresh themselves: an encampment was accordingly 
 formed, and finding after a few days, the situation 
 
192 
 
 to be altogether agreeable, fertile and pleasant, the 
 governor determined here toestablish thecityofthe 
 Conception. This city is in the latitude of thirty- 
 three degrees and five and forty minutes to the 
 Antarctic Pole. It is situated on a rising ground, 
 and in a very temperate climate. For the security 
 of this infant city, a large fort was hastily 
 erected, as a place of refuge against the Indians, 
 before whom the Spaniards were perpetually 
 compelled to retreat ; for the Indians, impatient 
 of any yoke, and enraged to think that strangers 
 should dare to take possession of their lands, 
 were determined to drive them thence. Uniting, 
 therefore, against the common enemy, they 
 resolved, if they could not dislodge them from 
 their encampment, at least to keep them within 
 it ; and this they effected ; the city, being now 
 only a frontier town : for in spite of Spanish 
 valour, prudence, and good management of 
 the governors, the Indians have always proved 
 superior, and kept the Spaniards from ad- 
 vancing a single league further into the country : 
 in the course of so many years the city and the 
 small portion of land within cover of the forts, be- 
 ing all the Spaniards have been able to maintain. 
 Although it has not increased in proportion to St. 
 Jago, it has many rich merchants residing in it. 
 The traffic is in hides, salt, and cured beef for the 
 army; for on account of the hostility of the Indians 
 
193 
 
 the mines in its neighbourhood have never heen 
 worked. 
 
 The Spanish children born here are of a sweet 
 and docile disposition, and readily take to learn- 
 ing. The men are remarkable for their loyalty, 
 faithful keepers of their word, steady in their 
 friendships, to which they are ever ready to sa- 
 crifice their dearest interests. They have the 
 best inclinations, and a universal inclination to 
 virtuous pursuits. Those that have embraced a 
 military life, are by every one allowed to make 
 the best soldiers and most faithful subjects the 
 king can boast. They are educated in great 
 simplicity of manners, the corruption of a court 
 having never readied them, so that their minds 
 are uncontaminated with court vices, hypocrisy, 
 and dissimulation. 
 
 The bishopric of this city is a poor one; its 
 yearly revenue never exceeding two or three 
 thousand pieces of eight. For this reason, though 
 the land is rich itself, and abounding in gold 
 mines, yet the-decimes or tenths are very small, 
 owing to the continual wars this city has had 
 to maintain with the Indians ever since its 
 foundation. Another cause of the small revenue 
 of this bishopric is the loss of seven cities, 
 some of them the richest in the kingdom, and 
 all belonging to the diocese. Thus, the Indians 
 have reduced it to an inconsiderable surn. In 
 
194 
 
 the year 1567, there was settled here an high 
 court of chancery, which remained, though in 
 an unsettled state, till 1574, when it was re- 
 moved to St. Jago, where it now is ; and, though 
 its jurisdiction reaches as far as this city, there 
 is little for it to do, because the governors are 
 obliged to be upon the spot to be nearer the 
 garrisons, on account of the continual and un- 
 interrupted war ; the garrison is therefore nu- 
 merous, and never suffered to be idle. The general 
 in chief appoints all the officers, even to the 
 colonels ; but his Majesty nominates the treasurer 
 and muster-master general, who is the second 
 person after the governor. This is a post of great 
 trust, and of no small value in Chili, by reason 
 of the many hundred thousand ducats that pass 
 through his hand in payment of the officers and 
 men who are inrolled on his books. 
 
 As soon as the governor had received Alderche's 
 account of the country whither he had been sent, 
 he determined upon returning to the Conception 
 for a short time, and thence to St. Jago. Before 
 he left Valdivia, he placed every thing, as he 
 thought, on a secure footing, and having settled 
 all matters to his wish, he set out, returning to 
 Arauco by Puren and Tucapel. He caused 
 also three strong castles to be erected at the dis- 
 tance of eight leagues from each other, and in 
 such situations as they might, upon the least 
 
195 
 
 alarm, easily communicate with and assist each 
 other. This heing finished, and a proper num- 
 ber of men left in each, he went to Conception, 
 and, from thence, in a few da\s, to St. Jago, 
 from whence he despatched Alderche to Cas- 
 tile, to give the king a particular account of the 
 discovered country, and the riches with which it 
 abounded, and of the settlements made there, in 
 order to obtain an adequate supply of men, which 
 his Majesty readily granted. During Alder- 
 che's absence to Spain, the new-founded cities 
 were in danger of being lost ; for no sooner was 
 the governor known to have arrived at St. Jago, 
 than the Indians began to shew an impatience at 
 the settlements made by the Spaniards in their 
 territories. They could not but be offended at 
 the strong forts the Spaniards had erected as 
 places of strength to fly to on occasion, and at 
 the cities they had founded ; as they gathered 
 from it, that the Spaniards, contrary to their 
 engagements,, meant to conquer their country, 
 and enslave them. The Auracanos were the 
 first to announce their determination, to drive 
 the Spaniards thence. The governor was soon 
 informed of the movements of the Indians : he 
 immediately collected a supply of men and am- 
 munition, and marched at the head of them to 
 the Conception, accompanied by Don Marten de 
 Avendanno, who had, but a short time before, 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 arrived at St. Jago, with a body of recruits, mostly 
 volunteers. The governor being arrived at the 
 Conception, he relieved and augmented all the 
 garrisons ; and put the whole in such a state of 
 defence as he thought sufficient to protect them 
 from all danger that threatened. He even turned 
 his thoughts to the mines, for which purpose he 
 employed above twenty thousand Indians, de- 
 signing to collect as much gold as possible in a 
 short space, with an intention to take it himself 
 to Spain, to shew his Majesty the value of the 
 conquest he had made, and to obtain from the 
 king those titles of honour usually bestowed upon 
 the conquerors of these countries ; and also to 
 bring back with him a sufficient force to com- 
 plete the conquests he had begun. For this end 
 he did two things ; the first was to send to the 
 Straights of Magellan, in the year 1552, Fran- 
 cisco de Ulloa, with two ships equipped on pur- 
 pose, to discover the whole Streight, that he 
 might know how to undertake his voyage, to 
 Spain that way ; the other was to set many 
 Indians to work to find out more gold-mines, 
 which they easily did, there being so many in 
 those parts ; the most famous of which were the 
 mines of Quilacoya, four leagues from the city 
 of the Conception ; and others in Angol, to work 
 which more than twenty thousand Indians were 
 employed. It is easy to imagine the immense 
 
197 
 
 quantities of gold procured, by such vast num- 
 bers of men, from mines that never had been 
 worked before ; it presently enriched both go- 
 vernor and soldiers; by which means, their 
 minds were elevated in proportion, arid the con- 
 comitants of prosperity soon made the soldiers 
 grow wanton and insolent ; even the governor 
 became infected with the same disease of too 
 much prosperity. The desire of riches increasing 
 by riches, which they ^saw every day flowing 
 in upon them, they became less attentive to what 
 ought to have engrossed their most sedulous 
 attention, which was their own and the infant 
 state's preservation, and, by such neglect, paved 
 the way for all the evils that shortly followed. 
 
 The acquisition of so much wealth soon made 
 the Spaniards forget the blood which had been 
 spilt to obtain it ; they grew proud, arrogant, 
 and tyrannical ; they affected to despise the men 
 that were labouring in the mines to procure the 
 treasure for them, and, without whom, they never 
 could have obtained it. But whilst these poor 
 Indians were busy in searching the bowels of 
 the earth for gold, to gratify the inordinate ava- 
 rice of their enslavers, they were also employed 
 in thinking how they should recover their lost 
 liberty, and free themselves from the yoke of 
 subjection which they had never felt before, 
 
198 
 
 The Anraranos were unreasingly plotting how 
 the) might most securely compass their designs ; 
 and, at length, after much debate among them- 
 selves, they resolved to rise unanimously against 
 the Spaniards, and lake their revenge ; hut, be- 
 fore they put this grand design in practice, they 
 began to talk haughtily, like masters of the 
 land, (as they truly were,) and not like slaves : 
 they quarrelled with one another, and, throwing 
 off all respect, went so far as to kill some Spani- 
 ards in one of their contests, which vt as not, by 
 the governor, resented as it ought, but rather 
 winked at; thus they quickly saw that they might 
 proceed to greater lengths with impunity. They, 
 accordingly, every day became more insolent, 
 and shortly determined to put in practice what 
 they had long meditated. For which purpose, 
 the Auracanos were every where engaged in 
 calling together their assemblies, to arrange the 
 plans necessary to be adopted effectually to throw 
 off the yoke of slavery in which they were 
 held, and to recover for their children, the 
 country of which they had been dispossessed. 
 The grand assembly of the Indians was sum- 
 moned in a very private and dexterous manner 
 to meet, in a plain, in the district of the Aura- 
 canos, who, at that time, were at peace with the 
 Spaniards. This nation is always regarded as 
 
199 
 
 the most penetrating and sagacious of all the 
 Indians, and are accordingly distinguished by 
 the name of eagles. 
 
 They met, according to their custom, to eat 
 and drink, at the appointed rendezvous, where, 
 after long debates, it was finally decided to rise 
 unanimously against the Spaniards. This point 
 being settled, the next w r as to fix on a general- 
 in-chief ; in the choice of which they were long 
 divided ; at length, Caupolican, the bra vest soldier 
 and the ablest chief, was unanimously elected ; 
 this settled, they all swore obedience to his or- 
 ders. They then examined each chief in turn> 
 to see what force he could bring into the field, 
 when the following caciques presented their re- 
 port. 
 
 The first in age and experience, and a most 
 violent enemy of the Spaniards, could bring three 
 thousand soldiers, nearly all veterans; his name 
 Tucapel, The next chief, his name Angol, a 
 brave man, conld bring four thousand. Ca- 
 yocupil three thousand, whom he led from the 
 Cordillera ; as hardy as the rocks they came 
 from, and capable of enduring any fatigue. 
 Millarapue, an old man of great wisdom, brought 
 five thousand. Parcara three thousand. Lemo- 
 lino with six thousand. Maraguauno, Guelemoj 
 and Leucossie, each, with three thousand. Tiie 
 robust Eduuira, considered a one of the strong? 
 
200 
 
 est men, brought six- thousand. Ongolmo four 
 thousand. Pueren six thousand. Lincoyee, who 
 was of the stature of a giant, seven thousand. 
 Beteguelen, lord of the valley Auroco, from 
 whence the whole took their name, six thousand ; 
 and the ancient and chief of all, with as many 
 more. The troops of Caupolian, Thome, and 
 Andalican, were to remain in reserve, to aid as 
 occasion might require. This important business 
 being over, they found, by their general muster, 
 that their force was more than sufficient, in their 
 opinion, to effect all which they desired, and 
 therefore they determined to commence hostilities 
 without delay. 
 
 The Spaniards had, as we have already men- 
 tioned, three castles for their security, between 
 the city of the Conception and Valdivia, and one 
 of them was near the post where the Indian as- 
 sembly was held. This castle the Indians pro- 
 posed to attack immediately, but their general 
 forbad it, in order to do it with more dexterity 
 and safety. He commanded Palsa, who per- 
 formed the place of adjutant-general, to pick 
 him out fourscore soldiers, of the most reputed 
 bravery, and such as were least known to the 
 Spaniards and the Indians their friends. These 
 he put under the conduct of two very brave men, 
 Cayaguano and Alcatipay. The Auracanos, 
 though in peace with the Spaniards, were not 
 
201 
 
 permitted to enter the castle, except such as 
 served the Spaniards ; these daily entered with 
 loads of grass, wood, and other necessaries for 
 the garrison. Caupolicon ordered the fourscore 
 men to feign themselves to be servants in the 
 garrison, and to take with them the usual loads 
 to the castle, and to conceal their arms in the 
 grass or other burdens. On their entrance, they 
 were not to answer if spoke to by the guard ; 
 each was to counterfeit lameness, weariness, and 
 over-fatigue. These men performed their parts 
 to admiration, and were all let in without the 
 smallest suspicion, which was no sooner accom- 
 plished, when, agreeable to the instructions they 
 had received, they threw down their loads, took 
 each their arms, and fell upon the Spaniards 
 with all the fury of enraged tigers ; and, before 
 the garrison could recover their surprise at such 
 a daring assault, several of the Spaniards were 
 killed or wounded. But the moment the Spa- 
 niards recovered themselves, a smart conflict 
 ensued; in return, some of the Indian party were 
 killed ; the others, as was concerted, instantly 
 retreated, in order to draw out the garrison in 
 pursuit, that Caupolicon, with his army, might 
 cut them off. The Spaniards, as expected, fol- 
 lowed, and were met, at no great distance, by the 
 advance of the Indian army. When the Spaniards 
 saw them, they precipitately retreated to their 
 
202 
 
 fort, to which Caupolicon immediately laid siege ; 
 and, during two days' close investment, he killed 
 the greater part of the garrison, the few that re- 
 mained alive on the third night effected their 
 escape, and fled to the castle of Puren. The 
 news of this invasion soon reached the Con- 
 ception, where the governor then was, and was 
 instantly informed of the revolt ; but, instead of 
 immediately sending troops to the assistance of 
 those at Puren, he staid to erect a fort at the 
 mines, in which, Herrera says, he had not less 
 than fifty thousand men digging for gold for 
 him. 
 
 As soon as the fort was finished, he set out 
 for Puren, without waiting to collect a suffici- 
 ent force to oppose Caupolicon, in which he 
 greatly erred. Elevated by his former success, 
 and trusting to his fortune, which he thought 
 could never forsake him, he marched blindly on 
 to that fate, which many concurring circumstances 
 had given him cause to fear awaited him. His 
 heart misgave him, for the first time, at his set- 
 ting out from Tucapel : he had sent out several 
 parties to reconnoitre, none of which had re- 
 turned. This gave him most serious appre- 
 hensions ; but, being engaged, it was necessary 
 to go on. He had scarcely marched two leagues 
 from Tucapel, before he saw two heads hung 
 by the hair to a tree, which he instantly knew to 
 
203 
 
 be the heads of two of the last scouts he had 
 sent. This sight increased his irresolution ; and 
 he consulted with the officers about him whether 
 it would not be rash to proceed. The young 
 men, whom experience had not made wise, were 
 of opinion, it would be lessening their reputa- 
 tion, to turn their backs to danger, although, 
 at the same time, there came to them an Indian 
 friend of theirs, who earnestly desired them not 
 to proceed, because Caupolicon, with twenty 
 thousand men, was then nearTucapel; by which 
 the hazard they ran was manifest. But this 
 good advice was set at naught. The young men 
 would listen to nothing but advancing to engage 
 the enemy. The governor, therefore, contrary 
 to his better judgment, continued his route, and 
 soon came within sight of the enemy. To see 
 and to attack, is always with the Indians one and 
 the same thing ; and, before the Spaniards could 
 form into any order of battle, the enemy bore 
 down tumultuously upon them. The battle was 
 cruel on both sides, and fought with such dread- 
 ful animosity, that victory for a long time re- 
 mained suspended. At length, the Spanish arms 
 began to prevail, and, seeing it, they cried, 
 Viva Espana, when, at that moment, the after- 
 wards famous Lautaro, an Indian, who had been 
 bred page to the governor Valdivia, having more 
 regard to the love of his country and his liberty, 
 
 
204 
 
 than for the education he had received, or the 
 fidelity he owed his master, went over to the 
 Indians, and prevailed on them to rally and 
 return to the charge, concluding his speech with 
 saying, " Drive away all fear, generous soldiers, 
 and either live free or die." His speech had the 
 desired effect; it inflamed their minds to fury, 
 and, despising death, they rushed onward again 
 to the charge, headed by Lautaro : who, 1o en- 
 courage them the more, advanced towards the 
 governor, his master, shaking his lance, who, 
 surprised at the action, cried, " Traitor, what 
 dost thou do?" To which he answered only by 
 a thrust, to animate his people ; the fight was 
 instantly renewed with much greater fury than 
 ever. Lautaro encouraged his countrymen to 
 perform the most desperate deeds; Valdivia did 
 the same by the Spaniards, rushing into the 
 greatest dangers ; the conflict was too desperate 
 to continue long. Valdivia saw every moment 
 the bravest of his men fall around him, so that 
 in less than an hour, he found himself nearly 
 alone ; and, seeing the battle lost, his chaplain, 
 who had not been hurt, though he fought by his 
 side during the whole of the battle, drew the 
 governor aside from the midst of the dead, and, 
 going to confess him, Valdivia had but a short 
 time given him to make his peace with God, for 
 a troop of Indians pouring down upon them, 
 
205 
 
 instantly killed the chaplain, and took Valdivia 
 prisoner, and brought him alive to their general, 
 as the grandest triumph of their victory. When 
 this great man was brought into the presence of 
 Caupolicon, who was no less humane than brave, 
 he was struck with pity to see so great a man 
 humbled to a captive, his hands tied behind him, 
 and his venerable face covered with blood. The 
 chiefs immediately crowded round him to see 
 him, and to decide his fate. The governor asked 
 Caupolicon to spare his life, and he would imme- 
 diately withdraw all the Spaniards from the coun- 
 try, and leave it free as he found it, and sware 
 to the faithful performance of it. Caupolicon 
 was inclined to accede to all the proposals, but 
 the other caciques would not ; and a violent de- 
 bate took place, in the midst of which, one 
 cacique could not listen with patience to what they 
 said, vexed to find it made a question of, whether 
 the governor should live or die, suddenly rose 
 up, and struck him on the head with his war- 
 club. Thus fell the great and brave Valdivia. 
 Many authors assert that the Indians poured 
 melted gold down his throat, and bid him take 
 his fill of that which he had so insatiably coveted : 
 be that as it may, it is certain they made flutes 
 and trumpets of his thigh-bones and legs. His 
 head was kept as a memorial of so great a vic- 
 tory, and to shew to their children, that they 
 
206 
 
 might, when they looked upon it, be stimulated 
 to imitate such heroic deeds. 
 
 Of all the Spanish army, it is said, there was 
 but two Indian friends that escaped the general 
 slaughter; these two, undercover of the night, 
 were fortunate enough to make their escape, and 
 reach the Conception, and brought the news of 
 this fatal event ; which, as soon as made known, 
 filled the city with tears and lamentations, con- 
 fusion and bitter complaints, since there was not 
 one person in it left that had not some near re- 
 lations to grieve for, and whose loss could never 
 be repaired. 
 
 Caupolicon, immediately after this victory, 
 called a council, to consider whether it would 
 be most proper to follow up the success. The 
 greater part of the council were of opinion, that 
 no time should be lost, in inarching against the 
 different cities, that they might surprise them, 
 before the Spaniards had time to recover the 
 shame of their late defeat, or be prepared to 
 defend them. Yet Caupolicon, after having 
 heard them all, resolved to do otherwise. " It is 
 better/' said he, " to expect our enemies at our 
 own homes than to go and seek them at theirs : 
 at home, men fight with more valour, for they 
 take arms to defend and protect all that is dear 
 to them, their parents, their wives, and children. 
 Let them, therefore, come to seek us in our bogs 
 
207 
 
 and mountains, where we are sure of a safe re- 
 treat. Let us give our enemies free access to us, 
 which will shew that we fear them not. In the 
 mean time, let our soldiers and our horses refresh 
 themselves. And if our enemies, out of fear, 
 forbear to seek us, we can command our own 
 time to seek them/' Having spoken thus, he 
 took Lautaro by the hand, commended him in 
 the highest terms, attributing the victory and 
 the liberty of his country solely to him, and, as a 
 reward, by consent of all the council, constituted 
 him his lieutenant-general, and gave him leave 
 to choose out the men he would have to serve 
 under him, and with them to march and fix 
 upon a post to expect the Spaniards, not doubt- 
 ing, but they would arm, and endeavour to 
 wipe off the stain of their disastrous defeat. 
 Lautaro received the commendations and his 
 commission with humility and gratitude. He 
 was not a tall man, but well set, and strong, in- 
 dustrious, courteous, of good counsel, gentle, yet 
 very brave, as we shall see hereafter. Whilst the 
 Indians were amusing themselves by public 
 feasts and dances in honour of their victory, 
 the news reached Francisco de Villegran, lieu- 
 tenant to Valdivia, that he was killed. The 
 command in chief devolving upon him, he im- 
 mediately assembled all the troops he possibly 
 could, to go and take vengeance of the enemy 
 
208 
 
 for this defeat ; and, setting off, directed his route 
 to Arauco, where, when he arrived, he found 
 Lautaro, with ten thousand men, posted on the 
 top of a high mountain, one side of which was 
 washed hy the sea; on the opposite side the ascent 
 was tolerably easy, all the rest was broken pre- 
 cipice. The top aiforded a good level plain of 
 considerable extent, well calculated to draw up 
 in, and very proper for his design. He had pur- 
 posely withdrawn all the guards at the passes, 
 not choosing to oppose the march of the Spani- 
 ards, or to attempt any thing against them, till 
 they should attack him in his present position, 
 which was most judiciously and wisely chosen. 
 
 The Spanish general, finding the enemy in 
 such an advantageous position, was at first irre- 
 solute how to act; he could not attack him in 
 flank or rear ; there was but one way to ascend, 
 and that presented inevitable death to those who 
 should attempt it, by means of the arrows and 
 darts, the enemy could pour down upon them 
 from his commanding situation. The governor, 
 unwilling to expose his men to such imminent 
 danger, had thoughts of drawing off his troops, 
 and marching onward in order to invite the 
 Indians into the pursuit of him. He therefore 
 made a feint, as though he designed not to en- 
 gage ; but this had not the desired effect. Lautaro 
 still kept his position. The governor, finding 
 
209 
 
 there was not any thing left for him to do, but to 
 attempt to gain the top of the mountain, he deter- 
 mined on it; bnt, not to risque the iives of too 
 many, he ordered only three troops of horse to 
 attempt the ascent. But they were presently 
 driven back by the accumulated showers of 
 stones, darts, and arrows, that were opposed to 
 them every step they took in advance ; they were, 
 therefore, after three repeated attempts, obliged 
 to relinquish it altogether. The Spaniards, see- 
 ing themselves exposed to useless attacks, where 
 nothing rould be gained but tiring their horses 
 and men to no purpose, the general ordered them 
 not again to attempt it, but to attack them with 
 fire-arms, which was immediately done, and 
 made great slaughter among the Indians. Lau- 
 taro, to remedy this, and to prevent its con- 
 tinuance, commanded Leucatau, one of his cap. 
 tains, to descend with a chosen body of men, 
 and take the Spaniards in flank, and not to halt, 
 till they came up close with the musqueteers, 
 that, by this means, mingling with them, they 
 might avoid the small shot ; for the Spaniards 
 could not, in that case, fire upon the Indians, 
 without endangering their own men. These di- 
 rections were punctually observed, and with the 
 most gallant success ; this manoeuvre the Indians 
 constantly practise to this day. 
 
 Leucatau observing his orders were executed 
 
 
210 
 
 with all the advantage he hoped, descended to 
 the plain to succour the brave few that were so 
 closely engaged ; so that the battle soon became 
 general, each leader endeavouring to succour 
 and encourage his men ; the fight was accord- 
 ingly maintained with great obstinacy on both 
 sides, each commander acting both as general 
 and soldier and exposing himself to the greatest 
 dangers. He that signalized his valour most 
 on our side was captain Pedro Olmas de Aquil- 
 lera, killing with his own hand four of the In- 
 dian chiefs ; he was seconded by the Bernales 
 Pantoias Alverados, and many others who 
 performed wonders in this battle, which was 
 long contested, very bloody, and in suspense to the 
 last. The enemy was much superior in strength 
 to our forces, and not at all behind them in valour, 
 and therefore the victory began to incline to their 
 side, for though Velagran and others would rather 
 have chosen to die there with honour, than turn 
 their backs ; yet the greater part, judging that there 
 could be no honour lost in a brave retreat, and that 
 it would be rashness to persist in so desperate a case, 
 they began to retire fighting and defending them- 
 selves with uncommon heroism. Thus they were 
 harassed for six leagues without the smallest inter- 
 mission ; at one time they got close to Velagran and 
 knocked him off his horse, and would have instantly 
 killed him, had not thirteen of his men advanced 
 
at the moment and rescued him out of their hands. 
 Thus a handful of brave men gained as much 
 glory in this retreat, as if they had obtained a vic- 
 tory, the enemy be ; ng a hundred to one to them ; 
 add to which, they had seized on all the passes, so 
 that the Spaniards were compelled at every pass, 
 to cut their way through increasing numbers of 
 Indians ; and although they killed a great num- 
 ber of them, yet, like the hydra, they seemed 
 to spring up anew, which caused ea^h engage- 
 ment to be more fatal to the Spaniards than the 
 former; so that a very small number escaped to 
 bring this second disastrous intelligence to the 
 Conception. There were no inhabitants in that 
 miserable city who had not lost the principal 
 men of their families, there being none left 
 but the aged and infirm. For, between Spa- 
 niards and friendly Indians, there was killed in 
 the field and on the retreat two thousand five hun- 
 dred men. To see the confusion and distress that 
 was in the city, upon the arrival of the wounded 
 fugitives, it might have been thought that the day 
 of judgment was come. One in agony laments the 
 loss of all his sons, another his father, others their 
 brothers, women their husbands, who were wring- 
 ing their hands, tearing their hair,and sending forth 
 the most lamentable shrieks, which were heightened 
 by the children clinging round their mothers, and 
 crying for their fathers, who would never more 
 
 p 2 
 
return ; which cruel sight was more grievous than 
 all. In the midst of all these horrors night came 
 on> in which no one could shut their eyes in con- 
 sideration of their misfortunes. 
 
 Misfortunes seldom come alone, and so it hap- 
 pened to this afflicted city : which instead of re- 
 ceiving comfort from the approach of day, was 
 only ushered in with greater and more afflicting 
 horrors; for scarcely did the dawn appear, when 
 the dreadful sound of the enemy's drums and 
 trumpets was heard advancing. Now then the 
 confusion increased, for the concern was not now 
 for the dead, but for every one's personal safety ; the 
 danger threatening them so immediately, there 
 was nothing but disorder, no counsel or resolution, 
 being to be found in the wisest. They could not 
 think of defending themselves, the enemy being 
 too powerful, and their retreat was to be made 
 through the most terrifying circumstances: in this 
 hard and dreadful conflict, they at length resolved 
 to abandon the city without pretending to save 
 any thing but their lives. They accordingly leave 
 the city, and all the gold that had been collected 
 together in such large quantities ; they march out 
 in long files, the mothers helping the little chil- 
 dren and the aged along; their steps were directed 
 toward St. Jago, their only place of refuge. No 
 pen is equal to relate the hardships of hunger and 
 other sufferings they had to encounter, through so 
 
213 
 
 long a tract of mountains, deserts, and uninhabited 
 countries. How the women, the children, and 
 old men could bear such fatigue, we must leave 
 to the imagination ; to form an adequate idea of 
 their sufferings is impossible. Let us therefore 
 return to the Indians. The Spaniards had scarcely 
 made an end of abandoning the city, when the 
 Indians entered it, and not being able to execute 
 their rage upon the inhabitants, they did it upon the 
 houses, to which they set fire, and consumed them 
 to their foundations, killing even the very animals 
 the Spaniards had left behind them. Thus was 
 lost the city most abounding in gold, and situated 
 in the most populous part of the Indian country ; 
 for 'tis said by most authors, there were not less 
 than a hundred thousand Indians and their fami- 
 lies employed in gathering gold for the Spaniards. 
 The burning of the city being over, news was 
 brought that Caupolicon had called a great assem- 
 bly in Arauco which obliged Lautaro to return with 
 his people to be present. When the two generals of 
 the Auracaunosmet, they complimented each other 
 on the victories they had obtained over theSpaniards; 
 and in sign of triumph, one hundred and thirty 
 caciques appeared in the assembly, all dressed in 
 the clothes of the Spaniards killed in battle : the 
 general Caupolicon, had on Vald ivia'sclothes, which 
 were, as is reported, of green velvet trimmed with 
 
214 
 
 gold ; a back and breast-plate of well-tempered 
 steel, and a helmet with a great emerald for a 
 crest. Having seated themselves by the gene- 
 ral's command, he proposed to them the design of 
 conquering back all that had been taken from 
 them by the Spaniards; when they all unanimously 
 agreed to his proposal, giving their assent with 
 great pride and arrogance, so much had their suc- 
 cesses elevated them. It is said, that the old wise 
 and prudent Colacolo, hearing them deliver their 
 opinions with so much insolence and pride, pre- 
 suming that all the world could not resist 
 the valour of iheir arms ; he thought it requisite 
 to humble their pride, lest, by depending too 
 much on their present good fortune, they should 
 neglect the proper means to secure it. He there- 
 fore called to their remembrance, that, although 
 they had gained two such glorious battles over 
 the Spaniards, yet the Spaniards had gained many 
 more victories over them, and had made them serve 
 as slaves ; he therefore advised them to behave 
 with moderation and temper ; for, although they 
 might rationally expect further success from such 
 happy beginnings, yet nothing was certain in war; 
 and until the enemy was finally driven out of their 
 country, nothing should be boasted of, and every 
 one's opinion should be given ^ith prudence, 
 caution, and reserve : and added, as his own, 
 
215 
 
 that, it was most advisable to divide their army 
 into three divisions, and march to assault the city 
 of the Imperial, 
 
 As soon as the wise Colacolo had done speaking, 
 the celebrated Puchecaleo, a cacique prophet, fol- 
 lowing- the same idea of humbling the intolerable 
 haughtiness of the assembly, told them they might 
 give over their presumption, for he was to ac- 
 quaint them that, having consulted his oracles, 
 they had answered him, that though at present they 
 were so victorious over their enemies, yet it was 
 decreed, they were at last to live under the Spa- 
 nish yoke, in perpetual slavery. The Cacique r \ u- 
 capal could not bear to hear this, and, rising in 
 fury from his place, advanced toward the venerable 
 prophet, and lifting his mace of arms, struck him 
 with one blow dead at his feet. The whole assem- 
 bly instantly arose in the greatest confusion ; the 
 general was more than all affected at the horrid 
 act, and. attempted with others to secure the mur. 
 derer ; but being a very strong and powerful man, 
 he defended himself so well with his mace, they 
 were obliged to let him escape, several of the as- 
 sembly being wounded by him. Lautaro, who was 
 present and had great influence over the general, 
 prevailed on him not to pursue Tucapal, but at 
 present to dissemble, and take a more fit oppor* 
 tunity to revenge the murder, which appeared to 
 be the general opinion. They then without longer 
 
 
 ERSVf* 
 
 OF 
 
16 
 
 deliberation unanimously agreed to adopt the 
 Opinion of the prudent and vise Colacolo, and 
 inarch without delay to the attack of the Imperial. 
 Agreeable to this decision, the Indian army di- 
 vided into three brigades, and took their route to- 
 ward that city. Being arrived within three lea- 
 gues of it, they halted in a large plain to refresh 
 the men and horses, and to arrange the necessary 
 business for the assault. The city, though it had 
 ft good garrison of brave men, was nevertheless 
 wholly unprepared for a siege, having neither am- 
 munition or victuals, their supplies having been 
 cut off for some time before by the enemy, who 
 had constantly laid in wait and succeeded in inter- 
 cepting ail that had been sent to strengthen and 
 supply the city, which had for thirteen days be- 
 fore been reduced to live on rats, mice, OF any 
 kind of roots or herbs they could procure within 
 the protection of the forts. Their fate, then, on the 
 approach of the enemy became deperate in the ex- 
 treme, enfeebled as they already were from want of 
 sustenance, and no other means left to defend their 
 city, but by fighting hand to hand with the In- 
 dians, in which close engagements the Indians 
 ever had the advantage. In addition, to aggra- 
 vate their perils, all the avenues to a retreat was 
 cut off, the enemy having taken possession of all 
 the passes, and wholly surrounded the city with 
 more men in the fourth part of one of their three 
 
217 
 
 divisions, than the whole garrison contained. Thus 
 situated they came to the desperate resolution of 
 calling together every one within the city, men, 
 women, and children, and, as soon as the enemy 
 advanced to the assault, to fire the fort, and perish 
 altogether in the flames. This dreadful alterna- 
 tive being determined on they instantly prepared 
 even thing for the event ; while they were thus 
 busied, the Indians continued their route, and the 
 van of their arm} had already advanced near the 
 city ; wh n in a moment there arose a most dread- 
 ful storm of hail and rain, with black clouds that 
 descended so low as to envelope the whole of the 
 Indian army, which immediately halted, not be- 
 ing able to see their wa^ before them ; they were 
 struck with consternation and dismay, when 
 the clouds opening, their Epunamon, or god which 
 they worshipped, appeared to their view in the 
 form of a dragon, casting fire out of his mouth, 
 and his tail curled up, and, with a loud and terrible 
 voice, bid them make haste, for the city was theirs, 
 that they should enter it and put to death all the 
 Christians ! It then disappeared. Animated by 
 this diabolical oracle, they again began to advance, 
 notwithstanding the darkness, but in a few minutes 
 the sky in an instant cleared up, and a very beau- 
 tiful woman appeared upon a bright cloud, with 
 a charming but majestic and severe countenance : 
 this second vision struck them all with awe and 
 
218 
 
 reverence, and took from them all the pride and 
 haughtiness of assured success, inspired in them 
 by their god. She commanded them to return to 
 theirown homes, for the God of the Christians would 
 assuredly favour and protect them, from all the 
 destruction intended for them by the Indians. 
 Her voice seemed to strike a panic into their 
 souls, their courage and vigour seemed in a mo- 
 ment to forsake them; and, as if driven by some 
 invisible impulse, they instantly turned to obey 
 her commands, each striving who should be the 
 first to turn their backs upon the city. 
 
 All the authors who have treated of the Auracan 
 war, are unanimous in the truth of this story : they 
 assert that the two apparitions were not only dis- 
 tinctly seen by the whole of the Indian army, but 
 by the Spanish garrison and are exact in every 
 particular ; and to this hour the Spaniards firmly 
 believe that the beautiful vision was the Holy 
 Virgin, who had seen and pitied their misery, and 
 compassionately came to save them all from 
 destruction. The garrison, being thus relieved 
 from their fears by the decampment of their ene- 
 mies, soon recovered their spirits and sent of an 
 account of what had occurred to St. Jago. These 
 messengers finding all the passes open and no 
 enemy to be seen, soon returned with every neces- 
 sary for the relief of the city ; which being re- 
 ceived, they made it their first business to put the 
 
219 
 
 garrison in such a state of defence, as to be able to 
 defend themselves for a long time, should the 
 Indians return. After some time the governor of 
 St. Jago finding the city not likely to be attempted 
 by the enemy, and that the Imperial continued in 
 safety, began to think of returning to the Concep- 
 tion and rebuilding it: to this end they raised all 
 the men possible at St. Jago, and sent them 
 thither; but being few, they with great difficulty 
 compassed their design in making a good fortress 
 within the city for its better security, which they 
 had scarcely completed, before the Indians in the 
 neighbourhood, although they pretended to be 
 friends with the Spaniards, did not like to 
 have them again as neighbours, or see them build 
 places of such strength in which they might bid 
 defiance to the lawful owners of the land. They 
 dissembled, however, their dislike, but sent pri- 
 vately to Arauco, desiring help to drive away these 
 invaders a second time, or extirpate them at once. 
 Lautaro complied with their desires, and soon 
 arrived with a well appointed army. As soon as 
 this news reached the Spaniards, who were at work 
 upon the fortifications, they formed themselves 
 into companies, and marched to encounter the 
 Indians, before they should reach the city ; but 
 their small number was by no means competent to 
 resist such a numerous force as that Laut.ro had 
 brought against them, and all they could do wag 
 
220 
 
 to retreat, desperately righting their way back to the 
 fortress, whither the Indian army soon followed 
 and instantly attacked it : the Spaniards defended 
 themselves with the utmost bravery, but being at 
 length overpowered by numbers, all that could 
 compass their escape, fled a second time to the 
 city of St. Jago : but a very few reached that city, 
 for Lautaro, ordered a pursuit in which many fell. 
 These dismal tidings once more threw that city 
 into the utmost confusion, not doubting but that 
 Lautaro would pursue his march and advance di- 
 rectly upon them. But Lautaro for the present 
 was prevented by being obliged to return to 
 Arauco, where great rejoicings were made at this 
 second destruction of the Conception ; and an as- 
 sembly being summoned, they debated whether 
 they should renew the war which had been sus- 
 pended by the visions they had seen at the Impe- 
 rial : but the success which had attended this ex- 
 pedition of Lautaro, did away all their fears, and 
 they came to a decided point, that the war should be 
 renewed and that all their force should be directed 
 against the capital ; concluding, when that was 
 taken, all the minor cities would be theirs without 
 much further trouble. This object being deter- 
 mined, Lautaro was fixed upon to command the 
 expedition. 
 
 As soon as he had made a choice selection of his 
 forces, from the bravest of them, he began his 
 
march from Arauco with a powerful army, the 
 greater part of whom were veterans. The news of 
 his march, and his designs soon reached St. Jago; 
 but many could not be induced to believe it : 
 they thought it impossible for Lautaro to inarch 
 such an immense distance, the more so as he did 
 not attempt it when he succeeded at the Concep- 
 tion ; but the governor Velagran, was of another 
 opinion, and therefore commanded the city to be 
 put in the best state of defence ; and scouts to be 
 sent out to scour the country, to give timely notice 
 of the Indians' advance : the first that discovered 
 them returned immediately, and gave notice of 
 their approach. The governor, who was ill at 
 the time, sent his cousin Pedro de Velagran with 
 all the forces he could spare from the city to oppose 
 Lautaro's further advance. The Spaniards came up 
 withhis vaninaboutsix hours, whenaskirmish took 
 place, and by those Indians Velagran learned that 
 they were within half an hour's march of the main 
 body, who were encamped, and had raised a fort 
 for their defence on the banks of the Rio Clara. 
 The Spaniards upon this intelligence halted for the 
 night, but as soon as the daun appeared they set 
 forward to the attack. Lautaro, ever upon the 
 watch, was soon advised of their approach ; and, 
 by the rapidity of their movements concluded they 
 meant to surprise the fort : he, therefore, instantly 
 withdrew his men from thence, and retired with 
 
them to a wood, at a short distance in the rear, 
 which served as an ambush, leaving" only a small 
 party who were ordered to fly as the Spaniards 
 came up, in order to make it appear as though they 
 were the straggling remains of the whole army who 
 had fled upon their approach : the whole fell out 
 as Lautaro designed it; the Spaniards coining 
 up and finding the fort abandoned, entered it, and 
 took quiet possession ; concluding the Indian ar- 
 my was actually fled, they did not think it worth 
 their while to pursue them. This was AT hat 
 Lautaro had foreseen ; he therefore remained con- 
 cealed till he was certain the whole of the Spanish 
 force was come up ; he then, with all his army 
 burst from his concealment, and like lions fell 
 upon the Spaniards in the fort, who were obliged 
 to exert all the energy and valour they were mas- 
 ters of, to cut their way out of the fort and effect a 
 retreat, the Indians pursuing them above a league. 
 The Spaniards, not at all discouraged by the retreat, 
 were soon reinforced and marched again to dis- 
 lodge Lautaro; our people halted in a valley, a 
 short distance from the Indian camp ; here they 
 formed and soon advanced to attack the fort ; 
 but the showers of arrows, darts, and stones, that 
 was poured upon them, obliged them to draw off; 
 three times they returned to the assault, and was 
 each time compelled to retire to the main body 
 with a design to renew the attempt as soon as 
 
223 
 
 more troops had arrived, which was hourly ex- 
 pected. Lautaro, aware of their design, was deter- 
 mined to prevent their putting it in execution, 
 by destroying the whole of the Spanish camp at 
 once. 
 
 The Spaniards were encamped in a low valley, 
 at a short distance from the Rio Clara, on the 
 banks of which the Indians' fort was situated: as also 
 in the same valley but upon higher groundj which 
 gave them the full command of the river and the 
 Spanish camp. Lautaro, ever fertile in expedients, 
 directed a large trench to be dug in a line from 
 the river, to the centre of the outer line of his own 
 entrenchments, where the descent of the valley 
 commenced and which bore immediately upon the 
 Spanish camp. His design was, by cutting the 
 trench deeper than the bed of the river, to compel 
 it to take its course through the trench, and, by 
 that means overflow the Spanish camp, from 
 which none could escape, the river being in itself 
 extremely rapid. This scheme was to have been 
 put in practice the following night, but Velagran 
 having noticed the business the Indians were em- 
 ployed on, presently suspected the design ; he ac- 
 cordingly called an instant council, in which it 
 was determined they should, as soon as possible, 
 after evening, retire from their camp with the ut- 
 most silence, and march immediately for St. Jago. 
 They were happy enough to accomplish their re- 
 
224 
 
 treat, without any molestation, to the astonishment 
 and disappointment of Lautaro. But, though thus 
 circumvented, he did not give up his designs 
 upon St. Jago; but, as he had lost a great number 
 of men in the different skirmishes, he determined 
 to remain in his position, till the reinforce- 
 ments should arrive which he expected. Here 
 then he remained encamped, having nothing, as 
 he thought, to fear from the Spaniards. The in- 
 habitants of St. Jago, were engaged night and day 
 in strengthening their city both with forts and 
 supplies ; and they drew from all the garrisons, 
 such as could in any way be spared. 
 
 When every arrangement was made that pru- 
 dence could suggest, the governor Velagran, set 
 off with a chosen number of men, as if he was 
 going to Arauco ; which route he pursued till he 
 came within a certain distance of the Imperial ; 
 when he suddenly changed his route and arrived 
 at that city, from which garrison he selected a good 
 many men on whom lie could rely; and, taking 
 them with him and an Indian guide, came sud- 
 denly and silently upon Lautaro, whom he imme- 
 diately attacked in his fort, and in the first assault, 
 Lautaro was the first that fell, shot through the 
 heart with an arrow. His soldiers, when they saw 
 their gallant leader fall, instead of being in the 
 least discouraged, became furious as tigers : they 
 defended his dead body with the most consum- 
 
225 
 
 mate bravery, and enraged to madness with such 
 a loss, and, urged by a desire of revenge, they fell 
 upon the Spaniards like lions ; nothing seemed to 
 withstand their fury ; they scorned to beg their 
 lives, but to a man rushed towards the enemy : 
 though the Spaniards' lances kept them off, yet 
 they threw themselves upon the points, and with 
 their hands pulled them into their bodies that they 
 might come near enough to their enemy to revenge 
 their death with his, or at least die in the attempt. 
 In this manner they fought to the last man, not 
 one of the fort remained alive, they all fell around 
 the body of their leader. This desperate victory 
 was dearly purchased by our people, for, from 
 Velagran to the common soldier, every officer was 
 either killed or wounded, and but very few of the 
 men escaped. But the victory was complete,-and 
 by it decided the fate of the city ; St. Jago's safety- 
 was secured, as they could have nothing further 
 to fear from the Indians for a considerable time. 
 
 Velagran did not long survive the battle, he 
 died with the reputation of a brave man, and a 
 judicious and excellent commander. Immediately 
 upon his death, application was made to the vice- 
 roy of Peru, to appoint a governor till the king's 
 pleasure should be known respecting it. The 
 viceroy at this time was Don Antonio Hurtado de 
 Mendoca, marquis of Canete, who governed with 
 great zeal and a. prudent severity, making exem- 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 plary punishments where they were necessary, by 
 which he secured the country. He had then with 
 him his son Don Garcia Hurtadode Mendoca, who 
 afterwards succeeded him in his viceroyship, and 
 was equally worthy of public applause and esteem. 
 The ambassadors from Chili, desired him of his 
 Excellency the father for their governor, which he 
 granted. King Philip the Second had appointed 
 the Adelantado Hyeronimo de Aldente to succeed 
 the governor Valdivia, whose death was known at 
 the court of Spain ; but the news came likewise 
 that Aldente was dead in the island of Tobago near 
 Panama. The viceroy's son having raised a con- 
 siderable body of horsemen, sent part of them with 
 the horses by land to St. Jago, and himself and the 
 rest of the troops went by sea. In the voyage they 
 were overtaken by a most violent storm, in which 
 they had nearly perished. He, however, arrived 
 safe in the bay of the Conception, and landed up- 
 on the island of Quiriquena, to inform himself of 
 the state of the country. The people of the island, 
 who were fierce and warlike, when they saw the 
 ships draw near the harbour, took up arms and 
 attempted to hinder the Spaniards from landing ; 
 but, having no fire-arms, nor ever having seen any, 
 they gave way as soon as the cannon of the ships 
 began to fire. When the governor landed, he pub- 
 lished the design of his coming, which was princi- 
 pally to make known to them the Christian faith by 
 
227 
 
 the means of baptism ; and if they would sub- 
 mit to that, he would treat wilh them in the name 
 of his master the emperor Charles the Vth. To 
 this declaration the islanders paid but little atten- 
 tion. However, the Araucanos soon heard of it, 
 and directly called an assembly of the people 
 to treat about what was best for them to do in the 
 present case ; the young caciques made many bold 
 and arrogant speeches according to their usual 
 custom ; and, their habitual haughtiness caused 
 them to despise all good counsel : but the old and 
 prudent Colocolo restrained their pride with pru- 
 dent reasons, and persuaded them to treat with 
 the Spaniards, since they were invited by them to 
 do it. It cannot hurt us, said he to them ; we 
 shall have our forces as heretofore, still to maintain 
 our rights, if they demand unjust things. This 
 opinion was followed by the most discreet among 
 them ; and they sent as their ambassador to the 
 Spaniards, Milalo, a man famed for his elo- 
 quence. They gave him orders to treat with the 
 Spaniards, and at the same time to observe well 
 their strength, and that he should manifest in- 
 clinations for peace,in order to draw the Spaniards 
 to land on the continent ; hoping the desire of gold 
 would soon tempt them to advance further into 
 the country. Milalo came to the governor's ten t, 
 and, after a proper and becoming salutation, he> 
 
 Q2 
 
J228 
 
 with a cheerful countenance, respectfully deli- 
 vered his message. 
 
 He said that his countrymen admitted the terms 
 of peace that were proposed, and should observe 
 those of friendship, not out of any terror or ap- 
 prehension caused in them by the arrival of these 
 new forces; for no power was great enough to 
 terrify them, having sufficiently experienced their 
 strength in the success they had hitherto ol)- 
 tained ; but that which moved them was the com- 
 passion they had for so many innocent people ; so 
 many women and children whom the war had made 
 widows and orphans. On which account, on fair 
 terms, they would own the king of Spain : but, 
 upon condition that he left them iii full and con- 
 tinued possession of their rights and liberties, 
 which they valued above all other considerations. 
 That if they had any thought of acting by violence 
 and making them slaves, they would soonereat their 
 children and kill themselves, than suffer so great 
 a degradation. The governor answered him with 
 a firm assurance of all the good treatment they 
 could desire or demand ; and having made him 
 some presents, he returned to give an account of 
 his embassy. But this was not sufficient security 
 for either side, and therefore both remained upon 
 their guard. At length the Indians observing the 
 cautiousconduct of theSpeniards, feigned todismiss 
 
229 
 
 their forces; but secretly gave them ordersto be upon 
 their guard, and not lay down their arms, but be 
 ready upon any occasion that might happen. 
 The Spaniards nevertheless did not think proper to 
 land upon the continent ; but stayed two months 
 upon the island where they first landed, till the 
 winter was entirely over ; and when the spring 
 commenced, they set on shore one hundred and 
 thirty of their bravest men, to raise a fort on the 
 top of a hill which overlooks the city of the Con- 
 ception : under the protection of this fortress, the 
 rest of the Spaniards quitted the island, hoping in 
 a little time their horses which were coming by 
 land, would arrive. In the meantime they cut and 
 made fascines to fortify their camp; the governor 
 and his officers setting the example by working in 
 the trenches, felling wood and throwing up the 
 intrenchments as the meanest labourer, and with 
 the same facility as if they had never done any 
 thing else all their lives : by this means they soon 
 brought it to perfection, and planted upon it eight 
 field-pieces with all other necessary provisions for 
 their defence. The Araucanos, who were sedu- 
 lously watching all their movements, no sooner 
 saw the fort completed, but, without staying for 
 any further proof of their intentions, which they 
 concluded to be for war, immediately called an 
 assembly, the result of which was not to delay a 
 moment to take up arms, and march to demolish 
 
230 
 
 the fort, which was the first object of their 
 thoughts. They marched next day and took 
 up their post at Talcaquana, two miles from the 
 Spanish fort ; and at break of day sounded their 
 trumpets, giving the alarm, challenged out as 
 many Spaniards to single combat, as would chose 
 to accept it, and waited there three hours for an 
 answer ; but at the expiration of that time finding 
 that none came forward, they gave the signal for 
 a general assault. This they immediately com- 
 menced by advancing in close columns, with their 
 accustomed impetuosity, not in the least heeding 
 the cannon, which they knew could only endanger 
 them whilst advancing; for, when the battalions 
 came to close engagement, neither large or small 
 shot would advantage the Spaniards any thing : 
 they therefore came on with the most undaunted 
 resolution. Many of them got over the fortifica- 
 tions, amongst whom wasTucapal, whose wonder- 
 ful actions astonished and confounded all the 
 Spaniards : and though they exerted all the cou- 
 rage and resolution it was possible for brave men 
 to do, yet they would have been completely de- 
 stroyed, had not a timely force from the ships, come 
 to their assistance, and enabled them to drive the 
 Indians out of the fort: the fight, as soon as they 
 came up, was in a moment more furious than ever. 
 The Indians fell on all sides ; and, as soon as the 
 Araucanos noticed the advantage the Spaniards 
 
231 
 
 gained, they sounded a retreat, which all effected 
 butTucapaJ, who refused to go out of the fort till 
 all his men were secure. Then, though wounded 
 in the most desperate manner, and surrounded 
 by enemies, he refused to yield himself a prisoner, 
 actually cutting his way through the Spaniards 
 and escaping, without any one being rash 
 enough to follow him. His actions appeared to 
 the Spaniards, to be something more than human; 
 and, as he quitted them, they gazed after him with 
 astonishment at his courage, valour, and resolution. 
 The Spanish force was reduced by this des- 
 perate affair, to less than one half, and nearly the 
 whole of them badly wounded ; and, for want of 
 men to dig the graves, the dead were thrown 
 into the sea. The greater part of the fortifications 
 had been demolished, which, they were obliged 
 immediately to repair ; the governor, and all, what- 
 ever their rank, was compelled to work on the for- 
 tifications, the same as the meanest slave : none 
 but the priests were absent from it ; who were 
 fully employed in administering aid to the sick 
 and wounded, many of whom died, notwithstand- 
 ing the utmost care was taken of them. The 
 Spaniards, however, did not despair, hoping, 
 when the horses arrived, which they might daily 
 expect, they should then be in no danger from the 
 further operations of the Indians. It was not long 
 before the wished-for succours arrived, and with 
 them, a troop of horsemen from the Imperial. 
 
232 
 
 This most seasonable supply soon raised the 
 drooping spirits of the Spaniards, and every thing 
 by their assistance, and the excellent example of 
 the governor, was soon placed in a perfect state of 
 defence ; so that they were enabled as soon as the 
 wounded men recovered to advance into the coun- 
 try. The governor directed his march to the 
 valley of Arauco, where they found their enemies 
 assembled in great force, and ready to receive 
 them. To meet and to engage, when these two 
 desperate enemies came in sight of each other, 
 was but the work of a moment ; here then another 
 very bloody engagement took place, when the 
 Araucanos, who had suffered severely from the 
 Spanish fire, were compelled to retreat in their 
 desperate manner, one man only remained a pri- 
 soner to the Spaniards, his name Gaulbarino. 
 This being the first prisoner they had taken, they, 
 in order to terrify the Indians, cut off both his 
 hands, and thus mutilated, sent him back to his 
 friends. As soon as he was able, he went to the 
 grand assembly of the people, and shewing his 
 wounds, begged them to revenge him, since he 
 could not, thus deprived of his hands, be his own 
 avenger. This they all swore to do, looking upon his 
 cause as their own, and to shew the Spaniards that, 
 instead of having frightened them by their cruelty 
 to a single prisoner, it would only serve to aug- 
 ment and aggravate their general revenge, which 
 they were without delay determined to effect : for 
 
233 
 
 xvhich purpose Caupolicon, their general in chief, 
 sent a challenge to Don Garcia, the governor, to 
 meet him with all his strength ; telling him that 
 he would wait for him in his camp, which he 
 should immediately move to a short distance from 
 the Spaniards, who were then encamped near Mil- 
 haripue. It was night when the Indian army 
 arrived, but they immediately formed in front of 
 the Spaniards in battle array, but the governor 
 forbid any movements till day-break. As soon 
 therefore as morning came, the Spaniards ad- 
 vanced to the attack, and the fight shortly became 
 general. The Indians, with their accustomed 
 bravery, closed with their enemies, and thus, hand 
 to hand, they engaged for above three hours ; so 
 that nothing was to be seen on both sides, but acts 
 of the most desperate valour. The Indians urged 
 on by revenge pressed the Spaniards so closely, 
 that victory had certainly declared for them, had 
 not a Spanish battalion, on whom rested all their 
 hopes, returned to the charge so desperately 
 among the Indians, that they were at length com- 
 pelled to give way, and, as usual retired fighting, 
 leaving the field to the Spaniards. Their retreat 
 was conducted in such a masterly style, they gained 
 more honour by it, than their enemies did by be- 
 ing masters of the field. In this engagement some 
 Indians, not attached to the army, were made pri- 
 soners ; these the Spaniards, to their eternal dis- 
 
234 
 
 grace, put to the most cruel tortures, to compel 
 them to discover where the gold that was in the 
 Conception at the time of Valdivia's death had 
 been lodged ; but all these poor men suffered 
 could not in any shape make them betray their 
 trust, and they died under the hands of their tor- 
 mentors, with the same heroic fortitude as the 
 Christian martyrs. From this place the governor 
 directed his march to the valley where Valdivia 
 was lost. Here they quickly erected a fort and 
 entrenched themselves, ineaning to make this a 
 sort of head-quarters, from whence they could 
 make excursions upon the enemy, whenever an op- 
 portunity presented itself to seize the treasure, and 
 advance their conquest ; but the Indians daily sent 
 out strong detachments, to be constantly hovering 
 near them ; so that they could not without mani- 
 fest danger, advance a single league into the coun- 
 try. The governor ,was greatly irritated to find 
 his intention daily baffled by the Indians ; he 
 therefore ordered a strong party out to take pos- 
 session of a pass, that led over the mountains on 
 the way to Puren : at this pass a most sanguinary 
 conflict took place, in which the Spaniards lost a 
 great many men, and would most certainly have 
 been obliged to relinquish theobject of their march, 
 had not the Indians who were not engaged, fell to 
 plundering the Spanish baggage. A company of 
 Spaniards that was engaged at a little distance from 
 
235 
 
 the main party noticing this error of the Indians, 
 and seizing on a small point of the hill that 
 projected over the lower ground, where the bag- 
 gage lay, instantly poured down a volley of shot 
 upon the Indians, which dispersed them in a mo- 
 ment ; for they instantly fled in all directions, not 
 rightly knowing from whence the firing came : 
 this gave the Spaniards an opportunity to recover 
 their baggage, and hold possession of the pass for 
 a short time, when they returned to the camp. 
 The governor, shortly after, having provided the 
 garrison with every requisite for a long siege, 
 quitted the fort to visit the cities, to strengthen 
 and provide them with all necessaries against at- 
 tacks which they soon had reason to fear. ^ 
 
 Caupolicon, angered and vexed at having lost in 
 three months, as many victories, and so many brave 
 men, had summoned in haste another general as- 
 sembly of the people, to be more numerously at- 
 tended than any that had as yet been. The caciques 
 being summoned from the most remote districts, 
 came at the time appointed ; and the whole world 
 could not produce a greater number of deter- 
 mined heroes, or finer men, than were met together 
 in this assembly : they were so very numerous 
 that the debates lasted a week, when an unani- 
 mous assent was announced never to give over 
 the war, till they had restored their country's 
 liberty and independence, and to secure which 
 
236 
 
 every one was determined either to conquer or to 
 die. As soon as this result was known, every chief 
 hasted to his home to prepare his men and 
 horses, and to be in readiness to march as 
 soon as the general should apprize them of the 
 time fixed for the general rendezvous. Caupolicon, 
 with all the wisdom of an old and experienced 
 general, was deliberately arranging the plan of 
 the future campaign; whilst he was thus employed 
 the 
 
237 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 I AM obliged to suspend my further progress 
 in the translation of the history, having been re- 
 quested this morning, by the bishop's private 
 secretary, to attend Father Pablo, on a visit to 
 his lordship, at an episcopal palace about five 
 leagues from St. Jago. Thither then I go, but, at 
 my return, I trust 1 shall pursue the histor}', which 
 I feel a great interest in, the more as I advance, 
 and I think that you will also, should it please 
 God my letters reach you ; and I hope they will, 
 that you may be at peace on my account, for you 
 will see that I am well, and tolerably content. I 
 do as I please, and go out and come in at my plea- 
 sure, stay in my room as much as I think proper ; 
 sometimes spend an hour or two with the Fathers, 
 eat little and drink less, never more than one 
 goblet of wine at my dinner ; never converse un- 
 less absolutely compelled, or at least to avoid 
 being regarded as unsocial. There are but very 
 few of the Fathers, who are not very loquacious in 
 their cups ; when they will sometimes take a fancy 
 
238 
 
 to converse with me, not upon the merits of aLock 
 or a Newton, but upon the comforts and blessings 
 of a monastic life ; which they, most dogmatically, 
 affirm to be the only happy state for mortals in 
 this sublunary world. It, however, not unfre- 
 quently happens that, in the midst of an elaborate 
 oration upon the subject, the good Father forgets 
 himself and falls sound asleep, when all the rest 
 following his example, take their siesta also, and 
 I retire to my room, there to think on those that 
 are still as ever present to my mind : when thought 
 becomes painful, I start up and away to some one 
 or other of the gardens, where I find plenty to en- 
 gage my attention, and soon recover serenity, hum 
 " Viva laBagatella," and think no more ; till another 
 fit takes me, and then, oh ! oh ! but it must not 
 be. I have delivered Father Savedro's letter, and 
 when I return I shall give you some little ac- 
 count of the person to whom I gave it: but I 
 shall not be so particular as I intended, for a rea- 
 son I am not at liberty to assign, unless I was in 
 England. I have not been fortunate enough to 
 fall in with any French, although I know there 
 are several here and at Valparaiso. I am well per- 
 suaded that all is not right at Lima, or its vicinity, 
 or they have heard some unpleasant news from 
 Europe respecting their affairs at Rome. 
 
 Our good Superior does not seem to be in spirits, 
 for these four or five days. I generally wait upon 
 
239 
 
 him every morning to inquire after his health, and 
 to have a little chat. He seems very anxious to 
 learn some news respecting a presidency about 
 twenty leagues south-east from hence ; in which 
 a half brother of Father Pablo's, a man of great 
 consequence, takes a more than common interest; 
 it having been founded by an uncle of theirs, who, 
 for his piety and the great fortune he left at his 
 death to the society, has procured for him a ca- 
 nonization, and his name to be emblazoned in gold 
 letters, in what I have named the red-book of the 
 saints. My friend, if all those that have been 
 canonized by the see of Home are actually gone 
 to heaven, I fear there will be little room for you 
 or me, when we have finished our journey here, 
 and come to present our passa a porta to St. Peter. 
 If any one in this hemisphere ever did or ever 
 will deserve such a distinction, none was ever 
 more deserving it than those excellent and good 
 men that first made known the ways of God to the 
 poor Indians, and framed such just and equitable 
 laws. Would his Holiness confer that honour on 
 my late valued and ever-lamented Father Hernan- 
 dez, I should then think there was some degree of 
 merit attached to it ; but I hear not from Father 
 Pablo that any thing of that sort is thought of. 
 During our discourse yesterday morning, the Su- 
 perior asked me rather hastily, as if it had been 
 the impulse of the moment, what my real send- 
 
240 
 
 merits were of a monastic life ? did I consider it as 
 the immediate command of God, or merely as an 
 institute ordained by man ? The question, and the 
 hasty manner in which the good Father spoke, at 
 the moment surprised me, so much, that I could 
 not on the instant recollect msyelf so far as to be 
 able to answer him with any degree of propriety : 
 my hesitation seemed to give the Father time to 
 recollect himself as well as me, and looking ear- 
 nestly in my face, with a smile of benignant kind- 
 ness peculiar to himself, said, I fear. Brother, my 
 question has rather perplexed you ; I own it was 
 wrong, therefore we will wave the subject and 
 talk of something else. But I have imperceptibly 
 got into a mode of reasoning, since I have been 
 at St. Jago this time, and daily conversing with 
 you that has given my ideas a strange turn, or else 
 it is thinking much on the loss of our brother 
 Hernandez : I cannot help considering him as an 
 absolute sacrifice to court policy, which, if persisted 
 in will mast assuredly destroy itself; the same 
 scene will, I fear, be acted here shortly if such de- 
 structive plans are put in execution on this side 
 the Andes, as have been on the other. Religion now 
 appears to have fled to her parent skies, as well as 
 justice; 'tis become now a mockery, and the pastors 
 of our holy church are as little regarded as the 
 most ignorant Indian, by all the Spanish laity : 
 thev meet with no respect but from the Indians, 
 
241 
 
 unless for reasons of state, where the church and 
 the state is so connected that one cannot be depre- 
 ciated without sinking the other. 
 
 It grievesme to think that his Majesty is kept in 
 such a state of ignorance respecting the real state 
 of all the religious communities in this hemi- 
 sphere : he is a good and beneficent king, and, 
 were he but well informed, I am most certain, 
 his respect and love for our church would cause 
 other measures to be adopted. If not, the 
 end of it will be, that both church and state will 
 fall into confusion together ; like the dis- 
 tracted French nation, who has thrown off, I am 
 told, all respect for God or his ministers, and set 
 up a god of their own making. This is too shock- 
 ing; and I firmly hope the holy Mother of God 
 will take the Spanish nation under her protection, 
 and save it from the same miserable fate. It is 
 too horrid even to think on ! more especially to 
 have such diabolical tenets spread their baneful 
 influence over the poor Indians, than whom none 
 are more devout or more sincere Christians than 
 those converted among us. Believe me, brother, 
 I should feel more for those harmless people than 
 for all the enlightened of Europe. Their princi- 
 ples, at this moment, are uncontaminated ; but 
 they would not long remain so were Frenchmen 
 to come among them ; for then, farewell to all 
 order and subordination; anarchy and confusion 
 
 K 
 
242 
 
 will soon follow, and every evil be aggravated 
 in a ten-fold degree. Your nation is a truly 
 happy one, although she is not precisely within 
 the pale of our holy mother church ; yet I cannot 
 help regarding her as the particular favourite of 
 Heaven, since she has not, like her neighbours, 
 destroyed the religion she professed. The court 
 here already begin to shew symptoms of a wish to 
 adopt the principles of France : our great men 
 frequently throw out hints that the ecclesiastics 
 are too numerous, and too rich ; and that a much 
 less number would serve the purpose of saving- 
 souls. These sentiments are spoken freely, and 
 even in the presence of our Lord Bishop, who 
 is, by no means, a rigid or severe pastor. All 
 this makes me uneasy. I cannot be at peace, 
 whilst I consider any of those committed to my 
 care to be any ways in danger. I am anxious to 
 prove myself a good shepherd ; to be watchful 
 that none go astray, or that any should be destroyed 
 by the enemies of mankind. But what will all 
 the care and attention avail, if those who are at 
 the head of the state are careless in the matter, or 
 are wanting in that respect towards us that our 
 habit demands as servants of the Most High. 
 The young men who are now called to the holy 
 office are not such as they were when I took the 
 habit: their manners are corrupted, and the 
 little respect they see paid by the grandees to the 
 
243 
 
 different orders, causes them to be remiss in their 
 duties, and not to fear the censures of their Supe- 
 riors. I noticed yesterday at dinner the surprise 
 you evinced at the sallies of those young men 
 lately arrived. Such behaviour is now become 
 frequent, and is not at all reprehended by the 
 Fathers. From whence this inattention or apathy 
 proceeds I am at a loss to account. Had they 
 belonged to my order, I should certainly have 
 imposed on each a long and severe silence; but 
 as I was not, silence best became myself: I could 
 only see, hear, and wonder. 
 
 We shall shortly go to the Conception, it being 
 his lordship's intention, as metropolitan, to visit 
 all the churches, and cause some alterations to be 
 made, and some new forms adopted, which 
 it is the will of his Majesty, or rather, I should 
 suppose, of the governors, to be settled. How 
 far these changes may be requisite or beneficial, 
 I cannot pretend to say ; time must be the only 
 decider of that question. However, I must bear 
 my part in the regulations, be they what they 
 may. Should it be in any manner calculated to 
 better the cause of the Indians at the presidencies, 
 I shall most assuredly rejoice ; but, should it in 
 any shape be designed to subvert the system 
 established by the fathers, it will go far to help 
 me more rapidly on my journey to that world of 
 peace where no earthly interests will clash, or 
 
 R2 
 
244 
 
 court policy prevail. I have detained you, bro- 
 ther, a long while this morning, as I may not 
 have an opportunity of communicating my 
 thoughts to you again before we leave St. Jago : 
 after which, the state we shall move in with his 
 lordship, will prevent any familiar converse ; and, 
 as my good brother Hernandez reposed a firm 
 confidence on your honour, you see I have now 
 done the same, that you might know what my 
 real sentiments are, and I think you will respect 
 them. Peace and comfort to the presidencies is 
 all I have to wish for, and could I be happy enough 
 to see that, I shall then return in peace to my bre- 
 thren : we shall know in the course of a few days 
 when our progress will commence. But I think 
 it will not be, till after the marriage of his lord- 
 ship's niece, which would have taken place some 
 time since, had the dispensation arrived from 
 Rome as expected ; the ties of consanguinity be- 
 ing such as to demand the assent of his Holiness, 
 before it could be solemnized. She has, indeed, 
 been already married to the brother of the in- 
 tended bridegroom, who died, leaving three 
 children. There is also some other obstacle, but 
 of what nature I do not rightly understand : 1 have 
 indeed heard that the gentleman was married at 
 the time of his brother's death, and that this lady 
 he repudiated for some alleged cause, in order 
 to give his hand to his brother's widow : he 
 
245 
 
 has also children by his wife, but they are not 
 here; they are two boys, and at the college of 
 Salamanca. The superior of this convent, who 
 is uncle to the repudiated lady, takes, I believe, 
 an active part in opposing the intended marriage. 
 I would not have you, brother Mathias, shew, by 
 your manner, that you are acquainted with any 
 thing relative to either party; but I think I need 
 not make my request to you on this matter, or 
 any thing else I have mentioned. At saying this, 
 without staying for my acknowledgment for the 
 honour he had done me in this confidential con- 
 verse, he left me. This excellent man would go 
 far to redeem the credit of many societies; he is, 
 in word and in deed, the counterpart of Father 
 Hernandez. From this morning's conversation, 
 I am confirmed in my opinion, that great and 
 eventful changes are about to take place in 
 this new world ; and as I hinted in some 
 of my former letters, that, before twenty 
 years are elapsed, the liberty of this country 
 will be secured, provided it can receive aid 
 from England. Thereon depends the whole. 
 England, great and glorious England, is the 
 only country that never stained their hands 
 with the blood of the innocent; nor has a single 
 conquest of theirs, in all their discoveries, been 
 maintained by the point of the sword. These, 
 and these only, are the people whom the Indians 
 
246 
 
 must look up to, and by them, and them alone, 
 will it be atchieved. 
 
 You cannot conceive with what pleasure I anti- 
 cipate my arrival at the Conception. I long to 
 be among the Auracaunos, to see and contem- 
 plate at pleasure those descendants of heroes ; 
 with whom I hope and trust our nation will be 
 incorporated ; for, in Chili, I am well persuaded 
 the liberation of South America must be accom- 
 plished, and, by those nations, aided by Britain, 
 will their permanent happiness be alone secured. 
 For the gratitude of those people is proverbial 
 here, and where gratitude takes up her abode, 
 there is, assuredly, the seat of every other virtue. 
 Then think what a wide field there is for expecta- 
 tion. We will suppose that some of our brave 
 men had effected their junction with the natives, 
 and had made known to them their views arid 
 their intentions, to aid and assist them, by every 
 means in their power,to throw off the yoke of their 
 slavery, and to renovate them as an enfranchised 
 people. We will suppose their offers are ac- 
 cepted, and the Indians, without one dissenting 
 voice, proclaim those noble Britons their sole 
 hope and universal friends, and hear them, in the 
 face of the sun, swear by that great and bene- 
 ficent and glorious luminary, (whom they all 
 adore,) never but in death, to forsake their lead- 
 ers, never to do any thing contrary to their or- 
 
24? 
 
 ders, or to dispute for a moment, their com- 
 mands. This compact being made, let the 
 British banners be unfurled, as a rallying point 
 for all, and, under these banners, and to the tune 
 of Rule Britannia, let the march commence; 
 and had I a thousand lives to stake, I would risk 
 them all, that victory, unqualified victory, would 
 be in their favour: that is to say, as long as the 
 British character and name remained unconta- 
 minated, nothing would be able to resist them, 
 for the God of armies would go before them in 
 the day of battle, and lead them on securely 
 as he did the Israelites towards the land of 
 promise. Adieu. 
 
248 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Convent of St. Francis, St.Jago. 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 THE president of the Audiencia having been 
 taken suddenly ill about an hour before we were 
 to have left St. Jago, for the bishop's palace in 
 the valley of Mapocho, our journey was sus- 
 pended, his lordship having been sent for imme- 
 diately on the president's being first seized. It is 
 not ascertained what is the malady, unless it be 
 an epidemic fever, which has prevailed in this 
 city for the last three weeks, and has proved 
 fatal to many. We have had almost ever since 
 I have been here very unsettled weather, which 
 is very unusual on the western side of the Cor- 
 dillera, as being without the tropics, the seasons 
 are in general steady and certain. The small- 
 pox too has begun to shew itself among the 
 Indians, a disease that is here named the plague, 
 and is as much dreaded as what we term the 
 plague is with us. Its ravages, I am told, are 
 sometimes so dreadful, as to sweep off in the 
 course of a fortnight or three weeks, from thirty 
 to fifty thousand Indians in the more populous 
 
249 
 
 districts. The officers of the public works have 
 this morning given notice that all the crown 
 works are suspended, and all intercourse is 
 stopped between the Indians of the city, and 
 those in the neighbouring farms. The public 
 processions that were to have taken place this 
 week have likewise received orders not to ap- 
 pear, but to confine the procession to the church 
 and cloisters. Father Pablo, with all the huma- 
 nity of a true Christian, would go this morning 
 with two brothers of this order to administer 
 the sacraments to some of the Indians that 
 are attached to the farms belonging to the 
 convent ; he had hoped to have prescribed 
 something that might mitigate the severity of 
 the disease, and possibly save some lives : I ac- 
 companied them thither ; but such a scene as I 
 witnessed, I earnestly hope I never more shall 
 see again. There were thirty-seven in all at the 
 first farm, twenty-three of whom were in a state 
 that baffles all description : it was scarcely pos- 
 sible to distinguish a single feature: the head, 
 and indeed the whole of their bodies being- 
 swelled to such a violent degree. No distinct 
 pustules appeared ; it was all in one entire mass 
 of eruption. They were all laid in a kind of 
 long hovel, such as our farmers have for their 
 cattle ; it was entirely open on one side, and 
 slightly roofed with a kind of reed, or leaves of 
 
250 
 
 trees. Their beds were nothing more than 
 grass cut recently down, not at all dry; their 
 pillows a piece of wood with some of the grass 
 laid on it, and some very coarse hard cloth for 
 covering. O God ! how my heart revolted at the 
 sight. My good Superior appeared to be no 
 less affected, but he said nothing, sighed very 
 deeply, and, I am certain, shed tears as he leaned 
 over them, to speak comfort to their departing 
 souls. He hastened to execute this Samaritan 
 office in which I assisted him to raise the poor 
 sufferers, whilst he administered the holy oils. 
 There was not a moment to lose ; as one of 
 them died in a few minutes after he- had re- 
 ceived the extreme unction, with the cross 
 pressed to his lips, as his last breath left the 
 miserable body. O ! my friend, it was a most 
 piteous sight : and this poor Indian deserved ca- 
 nonization better than nine-tenths of those in the 
 Roman calendar. I shall, I trust, meet and know 
 him in that world where all are equal, where 
 all sufferings cease, and tyranny is no more. The 
 excellent Father Pablo remained with these hea- 
 vily-afflicted beings above two hours : during 
 that time three were released by the hand of 
 death from all their misery; two with the other 
 Fathers, and one with us. As soon as all had 
 received the sacrament, the Fathers of St. Francis 
 were for returning immediately ; but my Superior 
 
251 
 
 thought proper to show them, that it was their 
 duty, and the duty of every one that called them- 
 selves Christians, to endeavour, if possible, to 
 g-et some medicine taken by them all, which 
 might allay, in some measure, the virulency of 
 the disease ; and this he did with his own hand, 
 speaking at the same time in the most soothing 
 and consolatory manner. All but five could 
 swallow it : these were too far gone : the pas- 
 sage to the stomach being closed by the erup- 
 tion, died that evening, as did seven more about 
 eight hours after. The others happily received 
 benefit from what they had taken, and it is hoped 
 they will recover ; on our return, Father Pablo 
 thanked me for going with him ; as it might, he 
 said, shew to the Fathers who accompanied us, 
 the necessity there was for them to adopt the 
 same means on the like occasion, and to apply the 
 same remedies ; for here, said he, it is not the 
 custom to attempt any thing that may be termed 
 physical aid to the Indians. When they are 
 struck with any disease, they are immediately set 
 apart from the others, and left in their huts to 
 live or die, as it shall please God to ordain : 
 And, I am certain, that, had not our good Supe- 
 rior been here, these poor men would have expe- 
 rienced the common fate. This cruel negli- 
 gence is invariably practised by these good catho- 
 
252 
 
 lies, as they are falsely" named. I lose all my 
 patience when I think of it. 
 
 The president gets worse : it is expected he 
 cannot live. Ah ! my friend, were I to attend 
 the death-bed of this great man, or rather, grand 
 man, for I cannot for the life of me attach 
 the word great to any man whose riches and 
 rank are his only claims : no, no ; he only is 
 great, whose private life supports the character 
 of a real Christian, and the universal friend of 
 the human race, were I, as I observed, to at- 
 tend the last moments of this man, and draw a 
 contrast between him and the last moments of 
 the poor Indian, what a momentous difference : 
 the one, resigning his last breath without the 
 smallest dread, the cross his only hope and con- 
 solation ; the other, all agitation, distrust, and 
 fear, as he makes his confession to one of his 
 ghostly Fathers who presumptuously dares to 
 assure him of pardon for his sins, according to 
 the price he is disposed to give for it. O this is 
 something that calls aloud for reformation ; and 
 the time, I trust, is fast approaching, when the 
 merchandise of priests will be totally done away, 
 and the plain path to heaven be laid open to every 
 one. I dwell on this hope with a kind of enthu- 
 siastic transport. 
 
 Should rny countrymen happily establish liberty 
 
253 
 
 here ; here then will the pure apostolic faith 
 grow and flourish ; for none would more eagerly 
 promote its growth than the emancipated Indians; 
 who, feeling the most exalted sense of gratitude 
 for the uncontrolled blessings they enjoy, would 
 soon be brought to adopt the customs, manners, 
 and faith of their liberators. They would see 
 and be anxious to become a connected people, 
 they would feel and enjoy the blessings of society 
 in wide and extended union ; towns would soon 
 be raised, domestic arrangements become gene- 
 ral, the advantages of trade and cpmmerce would 
 be opened to their view, and they would shortly 
 learn properly to appreciate the blessings of 
 nature with which they are so amply surrounded. 
 Chili is particularly calculated to promote a great 
 and glorious establishment on British principles. 
 The Indians would soon become attached to do- 
 mestic habits ; and none would more readily enter 
 into them than they would, as thinking it the 
 first obligation it was their duty to discharge, to 
 follow, without the least constraint, the example 
 set them by their immortal liberators. Then, 
 what a wide field of commerce would open to 
 Britain, since the works of every artizan would 
 find here a ready sale, unclogged with state 
 duties, or any drawback upon genius or enter- 
 prise, and here the artizan would find a welcome 
 
254 
 
 reception, and a great and daily increasing re- 
 ward for his labour. 
 
 I felt a strong conviction, that all my theories 
 might be easily put in practice, and all realized; 
 provided the Indians were once more masters of 
 their country, and at liberty to act without any 
 coercion, or the fear of having their liberators 
 become their tyrants. Make them free, and leave 
 them at liberty to reward their benefactors as 
 they should think most proper, without exacting 
 from them any remuneration, and 1 think I 
 could pledge my life that they would not think 
 the whole of their mines sufficient to re- 
 compense them. I draw this conclusion, my 
 friend, from the personal observations 1 have 
 made, and what I have read of their history. 
 Combining these, I feel assured that I cannot be 
 deceived ; and feeling, as I do, an earnest desire 
 to promote the arts and manufactures of my native 
 land, which excel all others on the face of the 
 earth, can I do otherwise than hope with con- 
 fidence, that this great and rich continent may at 
 length be opened to us and us alone. And 
 whilst the groveling minds of European princes 
 are engaged in forming plans to aggrandize a 
 few, and cut the throats of each other, our coun- 
 try, I trust, will be more meritoriously engaged, 
 not in extension of territory, but in opening the 
 
255 
 
 road to still more wide and extended commerce. 
 The Spaniards were certainly ordained by 
 Heaven to be the first that should conquer, 
 or, at least, carry their arms hither, to enslave 
 and destroy till the anger of the Almighty 
 was appeased, and an atonement made for the 
 sins of the people, by the sacrifices daily offered 
 up by the Spaniards: so that at length by 
 their cruelty and oppression, they might pave 
 the way for a more just and upright nation 
 to become the advocates of suffering millions, 
 who would quickly learn to contrast those be- 
 neficent mortals with their enslavers, and be 
 transported to receive and obey them. 
 
 You may, perhaps, condemn me, as drawing 
 too hasty conclusions ; therein you may be right, 
 but, when I take up an idea, I like to pursue it 
 through all its connexions and ramifications, as 
 I have done in this matter ; and the more I reflect 
 on the possible result, the more I am convinced 
 that it can and will be realized. The Spaniards 
 have been to these people what the Egyptians 
 were to the Jews, and, as the instruments of the 
 Almighty, have they exercised dominion over 
 them, but their time of dominion, like that of 
 the Egyptians, was limited ; when Omnipotence 
 decreed the oppression, he decreed also the time; 
 of its duration. The Spaniards, at the period 
 of the first discovery of America, were regarded 
 
256 
 
 by all the European nations as the most zealous 
 and most ardent defenders of the cause of Christ ; 
 they either were, or pretended to be, the only 
 true and steadfast assertors of the Christian faith, 
 and, to maintain which, they were, on every oc- 
 casion, the first to come forward with fire and 
 sword to destroy all that in any manner dis- 
 sented from their belief. Every thing they said, 
 did, or designed, was all done in the name of 
 Jesus and Mary. If all their professions of faith 
 were real and unfeigned, then did the Almighty 
 decree, that, to try their faith, the discovery of this 
 new world should be given to them, wherein they 
 might sow and reap the most unbounded harvest 
 in the vineyard of Christ, and wherein the 
 grand struggle between God and Mammon should 
 be decided. 
 
 The principal avowed motive of the Spanish 
 monarchs for sending out Columbus, was the 
 hope of finding a people who knew not God, 
 and who might, by their means, be made ac- 
 quainted with salvation, and that a Saviour had 
 bled upon the cross to save sinners from everlast- 
 ing death. This was the ostensible reason that 
 led the first discoverers to announce to the natives 
 the grand motive for seeking their shores. Had 
 it been really so, the Spanish monarchs would 
 have been long since the universal sovereigns of 
 the world. But they soon, too soon, forgot their 
 
257 
 
 errand, and became at once the most vile and 
 infamous apostates. The mild and beneficent 
 laws of a Redeemer, the precepts he enjoined, 
 and the example himself and his disciples had 
 set, were all regarded as nought when put in corn- 
 petition with gold, to obtain which, was the only 
 desire of their souls, and whose eternal welfare 
 was staked to possess it. But Omnipotence for- 
 bore for a time, to cause them to return from 
 whence they came. They were to remain till 
 a fixed period was elapsed, as a divine scourge 
 upon the natives, and no less a scourge to 
 themselves. But the time is now fast approach- 
 ing, when those that set in darkness and the 
 shadow of death, shall burst at once their ada- 
 mantine chains, and awake, as from a dream, to 
 light and life, when every prophecy of Jesus 
 shall be finally and literally fulfilled, as also those 
 of the apostles. Adieu. 
 
258 
 
 
 LETTER XIII 
 
 I WAS last evening passing down the Cannada 
 in company with a lay Brother of the order of 
 Merced, when we were attracted to the banks of 
 the canal, by seeing a number of people earnestly 
 engaged in something that engrossed their whole 
 attention. When we came near, we were sur- 
 prised to see a delicate young female, stretched 
 apparently lifeless on the grass, close to the 
 canal, from which she had been taken a few 
 minutes before. Her dress announced her a 
 novice of the nunnery of Sancta Clara. A lay 
 Brother of the order of St. Austin was kneel- 
 ing, and holding one of her hands. His grief 
 appeared to be too great for utterance ; though I 
 knew not the reason, my heart truly sympathized 
 in his sorrow ; my companion appeared to be 
 even more affected than myself. We stood for 
 some time silent, as did almost every one that 
 was near. There were several ecclesiastics ap- 
 proaching ; one of whom addressed me, and 
 asked, whether I had not more respect for the 
 order than to profane it in such a manner, by 
 standing silent, and not sending to the Alguasil 
 
259 
 
 Mayor. I recovered my speech, on this attack, 
 and told his Reverence I was wholly unconscious 
 of being wanting in respect to that of Sancta 
 Clara, or 'any other order, and altogether unac- 
 quainted with the subject before us. He looked 
 at me attentively, but said nothing. I looked 
 round for my companion ; but he was gone, 
 neither could I see him in the street. I was 
 puzzled in what manner to take myself away, as, 
 thinking for the moment, that I was in England, 
 and might be subject to be examined by a coro- 
 ner's jury, seeing, as I supposed, the lady had 
 drowned herself: but I was presently relieved 
 from all apprehensions of that kind, by seeing 
 my brother of the Merced advancing, and, with 
 him, some of the Alguasil's officers and fathers 
 of St. Austin. They immediately took the young- 
 man into custody, and marched him off, followed 
 by the priests, while the inanimate lady was laid 
 on a kind of couch. Not doubting but I should 
 be informed of the reason for the lady drowning 
 herself, by some of those that had been gathered 
 round her, 1 addressed myself to an elderly gen- 
 tleman, and politely asked him to explain it: but 
 he, like the priest, turned, and surveying me 
 from head to foot, with a most scrutinizing 
 glance, tucked up the tassel of his cloak, and 
 walked off". This tacit mode of answering a 
 simple question roused rny curiosity to know 
 
 s 2 ' 
 
260 
 
 the meaning. I therefore turned to an old 
 lady, whom 1 concluded would most assuredly 
 comply with my wishes, although it was in the 
 street, and in the face of the sun, which had 
 not then bade this part of the world good night : 
 but she was still more obdurate and silent than the 
 rest, and what was still worse, she did not even 
 vouchsafe me a look, but walked up the street with 
 more spirit and agility than I had ever seen aSpanish 
 lady put on before : this perplexed me still more. 
 I addressed myself to four others, but with the 
 same success : I began, therefore, to think the god- 
 dess of silence had issued her mandate, that 
 none should dare to gratify my desire. Well, 
 said I to myself, be it so, I care not ; what is 
 withheld from me to-day will be granted to- 
 morrow, so I will think no more about it; and 
 on I walked under the shade of the willows which 
 grow along the sides of the canal. The willows 
 here grow to a surprising height and size, 
 as does the myrtle, with which the willows 
 are intermixed. Thus I paced along, not a 
 little irritated to think I could not unravel the 
 mystery : that there was one, I was well per- 
 suaded, else why that silence, or why was I 
 shunned both by man and woman : or is it all 
 a fairy dream, a waking vision, or has the 
 moon rolled over my brain, and cracked it? 
 All these and a thousand more vagaries en- 
 
261 
 
 tered my head before I had well reached the 
 end of the walk. I had advanced, without 
 being conscious of it, much farther than I 
 had ever been before ; and should still have 
 continued going on, had not a voice ar- 
 rested my attention : it was soft and plain- 
 tive, and in the Indian tongue, which I knew 
 riot. I paused, and looked round to see from 
 whence it came, but I could see no one. 
 The voice ceased, and, after a short pause, I 
 heard a man say in very good Tuscan : " It will 
 do, Clara; it will, it will, it must ; you know very 
 well, that if Don Francisco arrives before your 
 brother, every hope will then be gone ; therefore, 
 let me entreat you to take advantage of the 
 only moments that can ever possibly offer. 
 We can be at Valpariso much sooner than they 
 can, and we shall be able to get on board 
 without the least suspicion, and, once there, 
 nothing further can be feared or wished, for I 
 have secured all ; so that we shall not have 
 the least occasion for delay, arid the master 
 has undertaken to sail within an hour after 
 we are on board. You will have nothing to 
 fear; keep up your spirits, and thus sup- 
 port the character you appear in, for you can- 
 not want to be assured of the delightful wel- 
 come you will receive at Lima. My mother 
 could think or talk of nothing else, my sister* 
 
262 
 
 too, you know their hearts, and what kind 
 and tender girls they are ; all will be in rap- 
 tures at your arrival for the future happiness 
 of the best of mothers, as well as my own, de- 
 pends upon it ; do not, then, I implore you, 
 any longer hesitate, but come this moment with 
 me ; you will drive me to distraction if you 
 deny; and 1 here most solemnly swear by the 
 Holy Virgin, I will not survive your refusal, 
 therefore, come, I pray you." 
 
 The lady spake again in the same language, 
 and, by the tone of her voice, I concluded she 
 was weeping. " It is no use, Clara, you have 
 gone too far to recede now, and go you must, 
 unless you prefer seeing me dead at your feet : 
 you know my resolution, and what, at all times, 
 I dare ; you, therefore, cannot suppose that, in 
 this momentous crisis of my life, I will act 
 with less resolution than I have hitherto done. 
 The mules are but a short distance, under the 
 garden wall of St. Dominic, and one of the 
 Fathers will accompany us for a few leagues: 
 he is one in whom I can confide, and will 
 take care that you are not missed before the 
 bell for dinner." The lady spoke again, her 
 -voice less tremulous than before, when the 
 gentleman said, " Come then, my angel, for, by 
 the time we get yonder, it will be dark/' The 
 lovers then moved onwards ; I followed the 
 
263 
 
 voice, but could see no one. The lady wa 
 speaking very earnestly, and you know n6t 
 how much I regretted that she also did not 
 speak the Tuscan, which I much wondered at, 
 as she must have been well acquainted with 
 it. I followed this ignis fatuus above a quar- 
 ter of a mile, and in a part of the suburbs 
 of the city which I knew nothing of. How- 
 ever, on I went, determined, at all hazards, to 
 see the lovers off. I knew not where St. Do- 
 minic's monastery was situated; that it was a 
 numerous society, and in connexion with that 
 at Buenos Ayres, was all my acquaintance with 
 it. But it was dark before I reached the east 
 angle of a wall, which I concluded must be 
 the boundary of St. Dominic's. Here I halted, 
 under some orange-trees, and listened to hear 
 the voices ; but it was some minutes before I 
 could hear them ; and that, as if they had gone 
 out of the path, they had been passing to one 
 more to the north-east, while I was got into a 
 thicket, and knew not how to get out, in order 
 to catch the sound which I found to be more 
 distant. Bewildered and confounded, I should, 
 most assuredly, have been obliged to have re- 
 mained there all night, had not an Indian, belong- 
 ing to the very people I was in pursuit of, given a 
 signal, which I supposed to have been the one 
 directed by the gentleman, he supposing the 
 
264 
 
 bustle I made among the leaves and trees to get out 
 was his master. However, before he was unde- 
 ceived, I heard the gentleman's voice at no great 
 distance, advancing apparently near to where I 
 stood, as I could guess by his- voice. He spoke 
 in the Indian language, and was answered in 
 the same by the man ; the lady, likewise, said 
 something to him ; and they all three went on 
 together. I was, by their movements, con- 
 vinced, that I could not be far from the path 
 under the wall, and instantly made a grand push 
 through the thicket to get to it, which I hap- 
 pily effected, but not without tearing my gar- 
 ments : luckily for me, the ground was thickly 
 covered with leaves and blossoms, so that my 
 footsteps were not heard, and I followed at no 
 great distance from the runaways, not without 
 a hope that 1 should see them when they came 
 to mount; but in this I was disappointed, for 
 when they reached to the opposite end of the 
 enclosure which had been on the left, they sud- 
 denly turned the corner, and, before I could 
 come up, they were mounted. Three mules 
 passed on in the opposite direction, at a quick 
 pace, and a single one remained with a man 
 for about ten minutes, as if placing something 
 on the mule, for though I could not see him, 
 I heard him busily engaged ; no one had spoken 
 but the Indian after they turned the corner of 
 
265 
 
 the wall ; and, as the man was adjusting some- 
 thing, I heard him in Spanish anathematize a 
 wine-bottle. I therefore concluded, that the lover, 
 the lady, arid the priest, were gone on, and 
 this was the Indian charged with the provisions 
 for the journey, and that all my labour was 
 lost, and I was in a pretty situation ; to get out 
 of which, it was necessary to be informed of 
 the best means to return to St. Francis. I, 
 therefore, retired back some little way, and then 
 advanced singing a part of the evening service. 
 The Indian was, in an instant, close to me, 
 when I pretended to be surprised at finding 
 him there. He answered, in very good Spanish, 
 that he was servant to Captain Pedro Aquirre, 
 and was going to an Estancea about two leagues 
 distant ; that something had got wrong on the 
 mule's saddle, and he had stopped to set it to 
 rights. I affected to believe what he said, and 
 bade him set me right to regain the Cannada. 
 He said, 1 was a long step from it, for I was 
 in the wood of St. Bruno. I asked him to return 
 through the wood with me, as far as the entrance 
 to the Cannada. This, he said, he could not 
 do, as he had stayed too long already, being 
 obliged to be at the Estancea by nine o'clock ; 
 but he would mount, and go with me to the 
 end of the wall, and then direct me as well as 
 he could. This was poor encouragement for 
 
266 
 
 me, and before we came to the end of the garden, 
 I had made up my mind to stick myself in a 
 thicket till day-light, when the sound of the 
 matin-bell would direct me. It was the first 
 time I had ever been led astray by curiosity, to 
 pry into other people's concerns, and I had 
 fully determined it should be the last, notwith- 
 standing I had two hours before resolved to 
 come at the secret of the drowned lady ; but 
 this evening was certainly to be one of adven- 
 tures to one who never had any taste for 
 them; for I am well convinced I should make 
 a very sorry knight-errant, more particularly in 
 affairs of the heart, and, being among the 
 descendants of the first knight-errants of Europe, 
 I should most assuredly cut a most lamentable 
 figure ; therefore, 1 shall be content at having, 
 without designing it, made one essay towards 
 obtaining so gallant a character. The Indian 
 completed his engagement, and left me at the 
 end of the garden wall, with a flourish of his 
 bell-whip, and bawling out, Hurrah mula hurrah. 
 Now, had I happened to have been a lover of 
 the fifteenth century, these woods, and wilds, and 
 umbrageous shades, would have been the very 
 essence of place and time : but, alas ! t was 
 three hundred years too young to be enraptured 
 with the sombre scene, and therefore wished, 
 most heartily wished, that I could change it for the 
 
267 
 
 portico of the Franciscan church. I made, how- 
 ever, the best of my way, agreeable to the 
 Indian's direction ; but still I seemed to be as 
 far from the mark as at first. At length, the 
 moon arose, and I discerned through the wood 
 a wide opening at no great distance from the 
 spot I had been traversing for above two hours : 
 most joyfully did I leap over the impediments 
 that stood in my way, and found I was some way 
 on the Cannada. How I could miss the path 
 the Indian told me I should find, is to me most 
 mysterious, for I must absolutely have gone over 
 it several times. 
 
 As soon as I reached home, the porter an- 
 nounced the hour to be two in the morning, 
 that the Fathers had been informed of my ab- 
 sence which no one could account for, and that 
 two of the lay Brothers were then out in search 
 of me, fearing some accident had befallen me; 
 while Father Pablo had ordered that he should 
 be sent to the moment any intelligence was 
 gained, for he was extremely alarmed, as I 
 had always been so very remarkable for my 
 punctuality in attending to college hours. I 
 hastened instantly to his room, his servant 
 was reading to him, for he could not rest: 
 and surely no real parent could express more 
 lively joy at finding a lost son, than this ex- 
 cellent and good man evinced when he saw me 
 
268 
 
 enter ; and the more as seeing my robe torn to 
 tatters, and my face scratched in a most delec- 
 table manner. For the holy Virgin's sake, said 
 he, tell me, my child, where have you been, and 
 into what dreadful hands have you fallen. See- 
 ing him so much agitated, I was angry with my- 
 self for coming before him in the miserable plight 
 I was in, for ever since the affair at Rioja, the 
 mention of a roving tribe, has an effect upon him 
 that he can with difficulty recover. I, therefore, 
 related my adventure as soon as possible, which 
 set his mind at rest ; late as it was he would have 
 me relate over again, the affair of the lovers in 
 St. Bruno's wood. When I had been more par- 
 ticular, he crossed himself several times, and 
 seemed lost in deep thought for some minutes: 
 at last he said, Are you sure, my child, that you 
 were not seen by any one of the parties themselves? 
 I assured him that 1 did not think I had been, and 
 1 had related every thing that had passed as near 
 as it was possible for me to remember ; I did not 
 think I had either added to or diminished any part 
 of the conversation. That's well, said he, and it 
 is my wish that you do not by any means what- 
 ever drop a hint that you was at all in the wood, 
 for if it should be the party that from some par- 
 ticular circumstances I arn induced to think it 
 may be, you might be seriously implicated in the 
 business ; to-morrow we shall hear something about 
 
269 
 
 the affair, if it is as I suspect ; and I draw my con- 
 clusion from the lady's name. Should it be 
 her real one, the lady I have in my thoughts has 
 four, but her third is Clara ; but go you now to 
 bed, and as none has seen you but the porter, we 
 must account for your torn gown and injured face, 
 by merely saying you got unadvisedly into an 
 affair that you do not chuse to make known ; I shall 
 dispense with seeing you to-morrow, keep in your 
 room, let the officer of the infirmary attend you ; 
 but, be silent to him, and remain in your room 
 till I either come or send to you, I will give you 
 my reasons for this caution after I return from the 
 palace ; God bless thee, my son, good night. 
 
 With this truly good man's benediction, I took 
 myself to rest, and in the morning I sent to the hos- 
 pital : the officer of the infirmary who attended, was 
 surprised at the rueful appearance I made, which 
 was more in appearance than reality; however, I was 
 fain to consent to be let blood. He remarked that 
 my hands were also hurt, but I laughed at all of it : 
 he was, however, very serious upon the business, as 
 thinking me very ill, and that such rencontres were 
 often attended with very bad consequences. Seeing 
 he was disposed to apprehend I should have a fever, 
 I thought it best to fall in with his opinion, and to 
 take whatever he thought proper to prescribe ; 
 thus you see how I was punished for my idle ca- 
 riosity. The two lay Brothers did not return till 
 
270 
 
 after morning prayer, without having obtained the 
 smallest information : they could not hear of me 
 any where, as I had not been to any of the families 
 I was accustomed to visit, and had I not returned 
 before them, the consequences might have proved 
 very unfortunate to the brother of the Merced 
 with whom they had learned that I was last seen. 
 They had also been informed I was in the Cannada 
 at the time the lady was taken away, and away 
 they posted to the office of the Alguasil mayor ; but 
 here no tidings were to be had : away then to St. 
 Austin's monastery, here they were as much in the 
 dark as before ; I was not there. Then to the 
 order of the Merced, but neither the Brother or 
 any he had been seen with, was in the house ; of 
 course I was not there, nor could they gain any 
 satisfactory intelligence respecting the catastrophe 
 of the lady ; every one to whom they applied for 
 information, was as silent to them as to me : all 
 they had been able to obtain, w ; as from an artizan, 
 who resided on that side of the street close to 
 the river, or rather canal. He happened to be 
 in a loquacious mood, and was one of the first 
 that ran out to assist in trying to get the lady 
 out of the water which is by no means deep ; and 
 the moment the alarm was given many ran to the 
 spot, and she was instantly taken out, but he 
 could not tell how she got in ; all that he knew 
 was, that she was seen to come out of one of the 
 
271 
 
 shops with a small baket in her hand followed by 
 an old lady. As soon as she came to the opposite 
 side, she threw down the basket, and was lost 
 in a minute. The old lady made an alarm ; there 
 was a great many passing at the time, but no one 
 could say they saw her jump in, and the crowd 
 soon gathered ; but none was so much affected as 
 the young novice who held her hands, and wept so 
 bitterly ; but none could tell who he was, or where 
 he came from so suddenly, for he was almost the 
 first that came up ; but he spoke to no one, nor 
 did the old lady, or an old gentleman that spoke 
 to her, and her only ; by which the crowd thought 
 it was her father and mother : and so many priests 
 were so soon arrived, that every one was afraid to 
 ask any questions as the young lady appeared to be- 
 long to them, as well astheyoungman thatgrieved so 
 much. The lady was carried back to her nunnery, 
 and the novice to his, or the Alguasil mayor, he 
 could not tell which : and thus every body was as 
 much in the dark as myself; and in which I am 
 like to remain, for every one attached to the church, 
 and church matters, are spoke of here with the 
 utmost reserve. I must, therefore, from all this 
 silence, conclude it to be a love affair, and 
 that in the true spirit of Spanish romance. As to 
 the affair in St. Bruno's wood, I may stand a 
 chance to have it elucidated, though I remain a 
 prisoner in my room ; by the hints Father Pablo 
 
272 
 
 dropt, and the anxiety he expressed to have me be 
 silent on this subject to all but him, he certainly 
 knows some of the parties, or he would not fear to 
 have me implicated in the business. This bleed- 
 ing and physician is not altogether to my taste ; 
 however, I drew this consolation from it, that what- 
 ever seeds of curiosity I might have had in my 
 composition previous to my eaves-dropping, I can 
 declare upon my honour, there is not now one 
 atom remaining : I shall ever remain content with 
 seeing as much as I can at one glance, and of 
 listening to just as much as might arrest attention, 
 en passant, and no further ; especially where the 
 blind god is in the case, for follow him but for a 
 moment, and he is sure to lead you into mischief; 
 out of which it is no easy matter to get, as I sup- 
 pose my companion of the Merced will by this 
 time find as well as me ; for here, as I have, I 
 believe, observed to you before, nothing is fol- 
 lowed up with so much spirit as gallantry ; the 
 whole life and soul of a Spanish woman or mes- 
 teez, is wholly and solely intrigue whether at 
 home or abroad, in church or out of church, by 
 day or by night, 'tis all one to the sefioras : be in 
 love you must, or pretend to it at first sight ; if left 
 alone but for a moment with a lady, if you do not 
 take advantage of that momentto tell herhowmuch 
 and how ardently you adore her ; your credit among 
 the ladies is gone for ever : therefore, if you mean to 
 
IRC MA: -.3 
 
'( UNIVERSITY ) 
 
 OF / 
 
 N*, C 4!JFORH^^ ^ 
 
 273 
 
 stand fair with them and keep up your reputation, 
 you must with all the warmth of an impassioned 
 lover, press for an assignation, and assure her un- 
 less she grants it, that you must without redemp- 
 tion expire at her feet. In public, where I have 
 been, I have often witnessed such scenes : the 
 cavaliers are adepts in the science ; the religious 
 are privileged men, they manage things in a dif- 
 ferent manner ; they have no occasion to make 
 known their sentiments in this fashion, for if I 
 guess right the ladies spare them the trouble. Now 
 as to your wife, I know what she will say when you 
 read this : " what a scandalous character this friend 
 of yours is become, how profanely he talks of the 
 ladies ; sure it can never be as he says." But I de- 
 clare upon my honour, I relate no more than plain 
 fact, and which I earnestly wish you was here to 
 ascertain. I have had already numerous affairs 
 upon my hands, out of which I have got as well as 
 I could, although I am well persuaded that many 
 of the ladies I have had the honour to be in friend- 
 ship with, never entertained any ideas beyond 
 those of rectitude and honour. The credit of a 
 love affair was all they aimed at, arid the pleasure 
 they derive in hearing themselves flattered. Now 
 you know I am poor at hyperbole and compli- 
 ments of any kind, therefore my habit is a most 
 fortunate thing to help me out upon all occasions. 
 The dress of the merchants' ladies here is, in a 
 
274 
 
 great measure, like that worn at Buenos A) res ; 
 retaining the Spanish hat and feather, with the 
 hair flowing beneath the shawl. They wear the 
 petticoats much longer than those worn at 
 Buenos Ayres, yet they are of such light mate- 
 rials that the form of the leg is easily seen ; the 
 bosom is not covered unless they are going out, a 
 long veil of lace or muslin richly embroidered 
 with gold or silver is put on, which envelopes the 
 head and falls in various folds over the body : 
 these folds the ladies of St. Jago know well how 
 to arrange, so as to display their persons to the 
 greatest advantage : when in their balconies, to 
 see the Orders pass, every one is dressed in 
 her best apparel, as also at the bull feasts. 
 This last I have never witnessed since the one 
 1 was at at Lisbon ; 1 think I there wrote you 
 I would never see another, and I shall most 
 assuredly keep my word : how ladies can delight 
 in being present at such horrid sacrifices as a bull 
 feast and an auto da fe, is to me a problem I could 
 never solve ; and although a man, I absolutely 
 shiver when I think on the grand place at Lisbon; 
 that scene, my friend, will never be forgot. It 
 might be deemed a weak ness; be it so, I could never 
 from a child bear to see the least cruelty exercised 
 over any part of the animal creation, and, much 
 more over man woman or child that }ras de- 
 fenceless : this makes me conclude that the 
 
275 
 
 Spaniards, were permitted to be the first to 
 conquer this country, as being more cruel in 
 their natural dispositions. 
 
 The tradesmen's wives bear a proportionate ap- 
 pearance, but always, more or less, with some at- 
 tention to ornament : they also derive no small 
 attraction from the coquettish air with which they 
 envelop the upper part of their figure. 
 
276 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 I AM still confined to my room, and it is given 
 out, I understand, that I am ill of a fever, of 
 a longer duration than when I was last in the 
 Canada. What purpose this rumour will serve, I 
 cannot imagine : if I have a fever it is absolutely un- 
 known to myself; but my good Superior will have 
 it so, and I must acquiesce : he visits me daily, 
 and this morning stayed above two hours, during 
 which we had a long conversation respecting the 
 presidencies in the neighbourhood of the Concep- 
 tion. He was twice about to relate something 
 particular respecting the Lord Bishop's going thi- 
 ther on his visitation as metropolitan ; the Bishop 
 of the Conception it seems presses earnestly for 
 this visit, hoping the presence of the head of the 
 church will be of eminent service : to place some 
 new regulation on a permanent basis. There is 
 also a design of sending to Europe a procurator 
 general : Father Pablo is apprehensive that he 
 shall be named, which he is much averse to, as 
 there have not been any certain accounts from 
 those who are already there, and he is of too 
 
277 
 
 meek and righteous a spirit, to mix with apostates 
 at Rome, or such as favour the French. Calmness 
 and retirement best suits him ; I cannot learn the 
 cause that obliges him to accompany the Bishop 
 in this long journey ; but I earnestly hope he 
 will go, that I may have the happiness to ac- 
 company him. To-morrow it seems he shall know 
 something that immediately concerns the object 
 of their journey ; as also the time of their setting 
 out. The president or governor is better, but not 
 out of danger; though he has, I presume, pur- 
 chased his passport, and obtained free leave to quit 
 the world without any concern to himself, leaving 
 the whole of that business in the management of 
 his confessor. My lord bishop will not now be de- 
 tained here, but go to the summer palace in the 
 valley, there to complete the marriage of his niece, 
 which our holy Father, it seems, has much at heart; 
 and then for the Conception. Whilst I am confined 
 I shall endeavour to arrange all the intelligence I 
 have obtained respecting the islands belonging to 
 Chili, that is to say, those which come under its 
 jurisdiction ; that as soon as I can pursue the 
 translation, I may furnish you with such accounts 
 of them as may be relied on ; but till I am pro- 
 nounced convalescent, I shall not be able to visit 
 the library ; therefore, I can only at present ar- 
 range what I have got from oral tradition, some 
 of which is by no means trivial. In a few 
 
278 
 
 days a messenger will go from hence, to our con- 
 vent at Buenos Ay res ; he is to be charged with 
 despatches of particular moment, both from the 
 spiritual and temporal commanders : and he will 
 also, by Father Pablo's consent, take my despatches 
 in the box, made at Rioja, which though not 
 quite so well filled as that of Pandora with the 
 like commodities, is yet full enough the Spaniards 
 would think, were they to open it, and let out a 
 little of its contents ; but of that I have no fear, 
 Don Manuel having most kindly provided against 
 all suspicion. He. good soul, is too much of an 
 Englishman, and likes the Indians too well, to 
 betray any trust reposed in him, and would be, I 
 am well assured, a most valuable auxiliary could 
 my hopes and wishes be realized, of obtaining to 
 the Indians their long lost charter ; and if it please 
 God to restore me once more to freedom, there is 
 nothing I would not attempt, to drive home those 
 that have so long oppressed an innocent and unof- 
 fending people. The more I see of the various 
 nations of Indians, the more I am convinced they 
 are of Tartar origin ; that is to say, those who inha- 
 bit the north eastern parts of Asia. If I recollect 
 aright what I read some years since, respecting 
 the Tongusian Tartars, the Indians of Paraguay 
 and Chili are most assuredly descendants of that 
 nation ; if we may draw conclusions from the phy- 
 sical and moral habits of both. The Tongusians 
 
279 
 
 worship the suu as their tutelar deity, so do many 
 nations of Indians ; the Tartars pay the strictest 
 obedience to their parents, and their princes, as 
 well as the highest reverence to age ; so does the 
 Indian : the Tartar purchases his wife of her pa- 
 rents; so does the Indian : the same ceremonies, 
 and the same affectionate veneration for the dead 
 are alike observable in both ; the same heroic spirit 
 and ardent love of liberty, the same kind of 
 wandering and unsettled life, all alike por- 
 tray the same origin. But at what port or 
 by what means they reached this immense conti- 
 nent, has never yet been ascertained by any writers 
 on the subject; for although many learned men, 
 of all the different nations of Europe, have, at va- 
 rious periods, written much, and very pertinently, 
 and started many probable theories, yet they have, 
 some how or other, contrived to leave it as much 
 in dispute at the end, as at the beginning: for 
 even Antonio Flerrera, the most diffuse of all the 
 Spanish writers, and who appears to have taken 
 great pains to come at the truth, abruptly closes 
 his one and twentieth chapter, with this trite ob- 
 servation ; that men as w r ell as animals passed 
 either by land or by water to America, near some 
 part where it joins to the other parts of the world, 
 either by the Tierra de Bacalaos, (that is to say, 
 countries unknown) or by the Straits of Magellan, 
 Father Acosta, who also treats the same subject, 
 
280 
 
 in his twenty-second chapter, of thefirst book, says, 
 "I take my conclusions from hints thrown out 
 by Plato, in his Timaeus; that people passed from 
 Europe and Africa, to certain islands, and so 
 from one to another, till they reached "the terra 
 firma of America ; not by any actual knowledge 
 they might have had of these parts, but by means 
 of storms, they often had to encounter in very small 
 ships, which might drive them against their will, 
 into parts unknown, and where they were obliged 
 to remain, as not knowing the latitude they were 
 in, or the use of the compass, or any other aids 
 which modern navigators possess." St. Austin, in 
 his sixteenth book, De Civitate Dei, draws this 
 very curious conclusion, respecting the animals 
 peculiar to America: that they might either swim 
 thither, be carried by hunters, or created anew 
 after the deluge by God Almighty. Thus much 
 for great and learned authors. The event of 
 a deluge is believed by all the different nations 
 of Indians which have yet been discovered, 
 although they do not exactly agree as to the 
 manner of it. The nation of the Guancas, 
 who inhabit the rich valley ofXavea, tell you, 
 that many years before there were Incas or kings 
 among them, the country being extremely popu- 
 lous ; on a sudden there came great and mighty 
 rains, which buried all the earth, and its inhabitants 
 except six, who took shelter in the hollows of 
 
281 
 
 their highest mountain, and after the waters had 
 left the earth, and made the great sea, they de- 
 scended to the valleys, and again peopled the 
 earth. This tradition is also received by the 
 natives of Peru, and some part of Chili ; but the 
 Indians, inhabiting the mountains, dissent from this 
 opinion, arid assert that none could be saved in 
 the mountains, because they were all covered 
 with water, but that six were saved in a float they 
 made, on which they lived till the waters had gone 
 away and made the great sea. All the nations 
 uniformly hold this opinion, that the sea was 
 formed from the waters of the deluge: how far 
 they may be right I shall not take upon me to say, 
 but leave it to the more learned to discuss this point. 
 It is ocular demonstration that determines me 
 to conclude, that the first people who inhabited 
 America after the deluge, certainly derived their 
 origin from the Tartars, or Scythians : no- 
 thing more strongly indicates the probability of 
 such a descent, than the manner in 'which the 
 Americans bury their dead, the tender regard 
 they have for the memory of their ancestors, their 
 lamentations over and exterior respect for the 
 dead. The rich clothes and valuable arms which 
 the deceased possessed, are uniformly buried with 
 him, and the place where the body is laid, is held 
 in the highest veneration. It is known, that they 
 frequently, when removing from the place where 
 
282 
 
 their father or brother lie buried, surround the 
 grave, and beg his pardon for leaving him behind 
 them. They will also return and bring as an offer- 
 ing the choicest of their game, which they may 
 take in hunting : this they perform, though 
 it may be many months after. They also open the 
 dead bodies to learn the occasion of their death, 
 and ask the dead a variety of questions, when they 
 cannot clearly ascertain the immediate cause of 
 it; as whether any one injured him, or vexed 
 him, or his wife displeased him, or his children 
 proved disobedient, and a great many other to the 
 same purpose. All this the Tartars of the first class 
 invariably observe ; and, like the Americans,or the 
 Americans like them, pay adoration to the Sun, 
 as their chief God ; for they believe in the ancient 
 mythology, assigning to inferior deities the whole 
 direction of their lives. But the South Americans 
 in general, believe the immortality of the soul, al- 
 though at the same time, they pay no particular ho- 
 mage, or external worship, either to God or devil. 
 They give the name of mother to the moon, and 
 honour her as such : when she is eclipsed, they are 
 in the greatest horror and confusion, running into 
 the fields, shrieking and howling ; armed with 
 their bows and arrows, and, arranging themselves 
 in close columns, instantly discharge their arrows 
 in the air to defend her, they say, from the wild 
 beasts and dogs that have fallen on her; and they 
 
283 
 
 continue shooting their arrows as long as the 
 eclipse continues, to prevent her from being torn 
 to pieces. This they take to be the cause of the 
 darkness over the moon's body ; and if my me- 
 mory deceives me not, I think the several nations 
 of Asia entertain similar notions of the lunary 
 eclipses as the Americans, which is a still further 
 confirmation of my hypothesis. I am also of 
 opinion that the emigration to America, by what- 
 ever means it was brought about, was most cer- 
 tainly subsequent to the death of our Saviour. 
 For among the nation of the Manacicas, there is 
 discoverable many traits of knowledge, that im- 
 plies a former acquaintance with divine truth, 
 though now lost and buried in fable. According 
 to traditions handed down to them from time im- 
 memorial, they believe that a lady of exquisite 
 beauty conceived formerly, without any operation 
 of man ; that she brought forth a most beautiful 
 boy ; that this child having attained a certain age, 
 filled the world with astonishment and admiration 
 at his virtue, wisdom, and the various prodigies 
 that he performed, that all the nations in the 
 world wished to live with him, and to serve him ; 
 but that he did not long remain among them ; 
 for one day, in the midst of a very great crowd of 
 disciples and followers, he ascended into the air, 
 and instantly transformed himself into this sun 
 which shines upon us ; and that were it riot for 
 
284 
 
 the vast distance, his features would still be visi- 
 ble. Notwithstanding this principle of the Mana- 
 ciccian belief, they do not adore the sun ; they hold 
 three gods and one goddess ; who, they say, is the 
 spouse of the first, and mother of the second, 
 whom they call Urasana, and the goddess Qui- 
 poci. They hold that these gods now and then 
 appear among them, under various figures, when 
 they are assembled in the hall of their Cacique, to 
 dance and make merry according to custom. A 
 loud rolling noise, resembling thunder, announces 
 their approach ; when this is heard, the people 
 instantly break off their dancing, and welcome him 
 with the loudest acclamations of joy, that sub- 
 side the moment he begins to speak ; which is 
 always to bid them to eat and drink heartily, as 
 he will give them plenty of good things to carouse 
 and be merry withal : then he takes a bowl of 
 chica from the Cacique, and drinks heartily, not 
 only once but many times ; but his drinking is 
 behind a curtain that always hangs in the hall 
 of the Cacique, behind which none dare enter as 
 an attendant upon the god, and to present the 
 < % hica, but the Mapona or Priest, who is al- 
 ways sure to be at the head of all the grand feasts, 
 as well as in readiness to attend upon the god 
 Urasana; for neither the cacique or any of his 
 great men dare even look behind the curtain, lest 
 they should oflend their god. None but the priu- 
 
285 
 
 cipal Maporra dare enter there ; that part of the 
 hall being considered as most sacred. Sometimes 
 the Mapona, from behind the curtain, puts ques- 
 tions to the god, concerning future events ; when 
 a general silence prevails, no one presuming to 
 speak till the Mapona comes forth; when, he pro- 
 nounces favourable answers or denunciations 
 from the gods, according to the nature of the ques- 
 tions, or rather according to the will or humour 
 of the priests. 
 
 Sometimes the Indians believe the Mapona, 
 when absent, has taken a journey to heaven, to 
 fetch the goddess Quipoci to comfort and bless 
 them. She announces her arrival by singing 
 some pleasing air, when the assembly shew their 
 gratitude for the visit by lively demonstrations 
 of joy, and their respect and love for the deity. 
 She answers them in the kindest manner, calling 
 them her children, and assuring them, that she 
 will constantly protect them from all dangers 
 whenever they will call upon her, as her af- 
 fection for them is unbounded. This they stead- 
 fastly believe, and never fail to supplicate her in 
 all their wants and calamities. They also believe 
 in the immortality of the soul, and that when it 
 leaves the body, it is conducted to heaven by the 
 Mapona, there to live eternally in joy and de- 
 light. When an Indian of quality dies, the Ma- 
 pona is not seen for some time : when he again 
 
286 
 
 appears, to inform them of the long and tedi- 
 ous journey he has had in conveying the soul to 
 mansions of eternal bliss. This journey, he says, 
 is very troublesome, for it lies through thick 
 forests, high, craggy, and steep mountains, deep 
 valleys, full of vast lakes and pools, and over a 
 very broad river, with a wooden bridge, guarded 
 night and day by the god Tartateso. This deity 
 is not unlike the Charon of the poets, his busi- 
 ness being to purify the souls from all stains 
 contracted in their life past ; and if any fail 
 in due respect, or endeavour to impose upon 
 him by a false account of their lives, he throws 
 them immediately into the river, there to sink 
 for ever. The Mapona, at his return, gives a 
 long account of his journey, and the trouble he 
 has had to save any one from being thrown 
 into the river, especially if the deceased has not 
 been generous and kind when living ; but he never 
 fails to say, he, at length, succeeded in getting 
 his departed friend well placed in heaven, and 
 for which he is always sure of a good reward. 
 In some parts, the Maponas are the preservers 
 of the body as well as the soul, and pretend 
 to cure all diseases. To be admitted a pro- 
 fessor of physic, the candidate must produce a 
 personal certificate of his qualifications ; that is 
 to say, he must shew by scars on his body, that 
 he has had different engagements with wild 
 
287 
 
 beasts, such as tigers, wolves, &c., and he who 
 can shew the most unequivocal signs of this 
 prowess is certain to obtain his diploma, not 
 from a college of physicians, but an assembly of 
 Indians, and it is always considered as a very 
 lucrative employ. In some districts the Cacique 
 himself is the principal physician, and not un- 
 frequently rivals the Mapona, being oftener 
 called in on extraordinary occasions than the 
 others ; and this partiality very often creates 
 jealousies that are not easily appeased : but both 
 the one and the other know but of two methods 
 of cure in all cases, both very monstrous and 
 extravagant. The first method consists in exa- 
 mining or rather interrogating the patient, 
 where he has been of late ; whether he has let 
 any chica fall to the ground, (a great crime 
 with them,) or if he has thrown a piece of 
 venison, tortoise, or other animal to the dogs. 
 If so, there needs no other inquiry into the cause 
 of the disorder : the gods punish, in this man- 
 ner, the abuse of their blessings; or else it is 
 the soul of some animal which, resenting the 
 ill usage it has met with while upon earth, is 
 got into the body of the patient. This last 
 idea, I think, has certainly some, though very 
 remote, reference to the man possessed with 
 devils, whom our Saviour relieved, and com- 
 manded the evil spirits to enter into the herd of 
 
288 
 
 swine. The doctor sucks the place where the 
 principal pain is felt; then he wheels about his 
 patient in a circle all the time, striking vio- 
 lently the ground with a large club, till the 
 violence of the motion exhausts both patient 
 and doctor, when perforce he leaves off: this is 
 to drive away the evil spirit with which his 
 patient is possessed. By this mode of practice 
 we may well presume the patient is not much 
 mended, and has nothing to depend upon but 
 the strength of his constitution. The other w 7 ay 
 is barbarous in the extreme, but has really, in 
 my opinion, a near affinity to our received 
 opinion of witchcraft, as springing from one 
 and the same original. When a patient's com- 
 plaints are such that they cannot readily divine 
 the cause, the patient, or the doctor, fixes upon 
 some woman whom they have offended, as the 
 ostensible cause of the malady. As soon as this 
 opinion is made known to the family, nothing 
 more is requisite to perfect a cure than to go 
 and dispatch the unhappy creature, which is 
 always performed by the patient himself, or 
 his next of kin. The experience and persuasion 
 of the missionaries ought to have convinced 
 them that such recipes or prescriptions cannot 
 possibly be of any service ; yet, in spite of all 
 argument, they still persist in the belief that 
 distempers proceed entirely from external causes, 
 
289 
 
 and not from any internal alteration in the sys- 
 tem by the confluence of humours. Sovery 
 much attached are they to old customs, that 
 the missionaries have found it very difficult to 
 make them see the ignorance and knavery of 
 their pretended physicians. The Manacicians, 
 although they have these established physicians, 
 have likewise others whom they name Machi ; 
 that is to say, herb doctors, who are most cer- 
 tainly very skilful in the knowledge of herbs, 
 and their application of them. Among these, 
 the women are in some cases more eminent than 
 the men, particularly in ascertaining the cause 
 of internal diseases. In the library I saw a book 
 belonging to the hospital, containing a long list 
 of attested cures performed by these herb doctors: 
 they are, it seems, in high repute, not only with 
 the Indians, but with the Spaniards, who apply 
 to them on all occasions, when their own skill 
 fails. The knowledge they possess is, it seems, 
 hereditary in some families, but they keep their 
 knowledge most carefully from the Spaniards, 
 but they do not refuse to attend them when called 
 upon. Father Herran, in his medical reports, 
 relates many surprising cures. Among others, 
 he says, one of our order was for many years 
 troubled with fainting fits, which would take him 
 so suddenly that he was obliged to have a lay 
 Brother constantly with him. He was about 
 
290 
 
 thirty years of age, and had for the last seven 
 or eight years tried all the learned prescriptions 
 of the most skilful physicians, but all their pre- 
 scriptions were useless. He yearly became worse 
 and worse, and was reduced to a mere skeleton. 
 By some chance, an Indian, who had seen him 
 fall down, and violently hurt himself, told the Fa- 
 thers that in his district there was an Indian machi, 
 who would cure him immediately, if they could 
 get him to come thither. The Fathers, anxious 
 to relieve the brother, immediately sent off a 
 messenger, with the Indian, to offer the machi 
 a very great reward if he would come to the con- 
 vent. By the persuasion of the Indian, he was 
 prevailed upon, and soon came. When he had 
 seen his patient, and without asking any questions, 
 being told the nature of the complaint, with 
 the length of time he had been affected, he pro- 
 duced a small packet of powders, and took from 
 them about as much as would cover an inch 
 square, which he put into a glass of wine, and gave 
 it the Father, who, having drank it, felt imme- 
 diately relieved, and never more was afflicted 
 with the same disease, but continued in good 
 health and spirits for the subsequent nine years he 
 remained with us. Some of the Indians are 
 particularly skilful in administering poison that 
 wastes the body by degrees, but does not be- 
 come mortal till the period they choose. Many 
 
291 
 
 Spaniards have died from this only, and which 
 none but the machis can cure. This they do by 
 preparing the body for some days, by drinking 
 herb infusions, of which they carefully watch 
 the operation, and will tell to a few minutes 
 when the poison will be evacuated. This dreadful 
 poison, whatever it may be, is invariably brought 
 off in a small round ball, curiously wound round 
 with human hair. These balls are found of 
 various sizes, some of them no bigger than a 
 large pea, others as big as an hazel-nut ; all in 
 the end prove fatal, unless the machi's prescrip- 
 tion is applied. Thus, I think the Manacicians 
 are most certainly the absolute descendants of 
 the first emigrants that reached those shores, and 
 from them all the other nations originated. I 
 could certainly, had I leisure, entertain you with 
 more plausible reasons for my belief, but I must 
 postpone them till my return to Buenos Ayres ; 
 and when that will be, God knows : I heartily 
 wish it may not be long, when I am determined 
 to make one grand effort to gain certain intelli- 
 gence as to their success at llioja, or endeavour 
 to be sent there if 1 can ; but for that event I 
 must trust Heaven. Adieu. 
 
 u 2 
 
292 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 I AM this morning pronounced by my spiritual 
 and temporal physicians to be absolutely in per- 
 fect health, and at liberty to go forth at large 
 again ; and what is more, I have acquired the 
 secret of St. Bruno's wood, which I consider a 
 desirable acquisition, or rather a reward for my 
 confinement, and, indeed, the good Father Pablo 
 thought so too. In a former letter, I informed 
 you, that our journey to the Conception would 
 commence immediately after the marriage of my 
 Lord Bishop's niece, which, it is presumed, has 
 taken place, though not .exactly with the purposed 
 bridegroom : for, be it known to you, that the 
 lady who spoke in the Indian language to the 
 gentleman in the wood is the very identical 
 niece of his Lordship. My Superior was this 
 morning so kind as to come to my room for the 
 purpose of explaining the business. This lady's 
 mother was the sole heiress of one of the most 
 powerful of the Auracan caciques. She was, 
 unfortunately, taken prisoner in an engagement 
 
293 
 
 between the Spaniards and her father's people, 
 who, although they were beaten back to the 
 Imperial, yet succeeded in carrying her off. She 
 was the only child left to her father ; of five sons 
 that he had, thjee had fallen in battle, and two 
 by the small pox. The father, as soon as he was 
 informed of the fate of his child, immediately 
 set off for the Spanish garrison, with all his 
 troops, and those of his next friend, with a de- 
 termination to attack the fortress, and put every 
 Spaniard to death, man, woman, or child, that 
 might be found in it. They were not long in 
 reaching the fort, to which he concluded his 
 child had been taken. He immediately sum- 
 moned it, and demanded his daughter. The 
 Spaniards, contrary to their usual custom, an- 
 swered the summons, not by their cannon, but a 
 herald, with a message that the governor would 
 restore the lady, and propose articles of peace that 
 might secure to both parties all they could wish. 
 Whilst the cacique was musing over this new 
 kind of communication, and fearing for his child, 
 well knowing the treachery of the Spaniards, he 
 was surprised to see her conducted towards him 
 by two Spanish officers, bearing a flag of truce. 
 When they came near, she advanced before them, 
 and, kneeling to her father, entreated him to 
 listen to the proposals of the governor, who, as a 
 proof of his sincerity, and determination to abide 
 
294 
 
 by all that should be required, he had thought 
 proper to set her iustantly free, that she might 
 be a mediator between them. She further said, 
 that she had been treated with the greatest re- 
 spect by them all, and, in particular, by one of 
 those that accompanied her, who was son to the 
 governor, and commanded the party which took 
 her prisoner. The cacique possessed all the 
 greatness of soul that marks the character of an 
 upright man and hero, for he was one ; and more 
 than once had the Spaniards felt the force of his 
 arms, and been driven before him to take refuge in 
 their forts, or they would have been totally routed 
 in the field. He was the chief of all others they 
 most dreaded. The sight of his child, and the 
 assurance of her having been respected, gave to 
 his heart the most grateful sensations, and, em- 
 bracing her, he said, he would listen to what they 
 had to say, and, if consistent with the future 
 safety of his people, he would comply with their 
 proposals. The usual time of eight days was 
 fixed for the final answer, and, with his daugh- 
 ter, he took the route towards home. One of the 
 articles was a proposition for the cacique to give 
 his daughter in marriage to the son of the go- 
 vernor. This was an article that was long de- 
 bated in the council that he called on the occa- 
 sion ; but, at length, by the intercession of the 
 young lady herself, it was agreed to, and peace 
 
295 
 
 was finally made, on the marriage taking place 
 three weeks after. That peace has been strictly 
 observed by both parties ever since; although 
 her father did not live long after, and the lady, 
 having no brothers or near relations to join 
 in subsequent affairs between the Spaniards and 
 other neighbouring chiefs, the whole of that 
 district belonging to her remained perfectly tran- 
 quil. There were two children of this marriage, 
 a son and a daughter. Six years after the mar- 
 riage, the governor, her father-in-law, was ap- 
 pointed governor of Lima, and his son lieutenant- 
 governor. This arrangement caused them to 
 remove to Peru, and when the boy attained his 
 eighth year, he was contracted to a daughter of 
 the late viceroy, and the young lady to one of his 
 sons, which marriages were consummated ; and, 
 soon after, another son of the viceroy was mar- 
 ried to a daughter of one of the native grandees 
 of Lima. About this time, the present Lord 
 Bishop of St. Jago was appointed to this see. 
 He was brother to the governor's wife, who was 
 a native of Lima. The lieutenant-governor did 
 not long survive the completion of the marriage 
 of his children, and his widow took the veil in a 
 nunnery at Lima. The daughter lost her hus- 
 band at the age of eighteen, leaving her three 
 children under the guardianship of the present 
 bishop of St. Jago. Before her year oi mourning 
 
296 
 
 was quite expired, several gallant Spaniards made 
 her proposals; among them, an highly-accom- 
 plished Spaniard arrived at Lima from Old 
 Spain as colonel of a troop of horse. His father 
 had been viceroy, but was dead. His mother 
 and sisters remained at Lima, but he had been 
 sent to the court by his father's successor on 
 affairs of a private nature. At his return, he 
 was appointed lieutenant-governor, and, at the 
 same time, became enamoured of the young wi- 
 dow, who, it should seem, was no less enamoured 
 of him, and, as soon as time would permit, he 
 made his pretensions known, and applied to the 
 bishop for leave to address his niece, but he 
 met with an abrupt refusal. In the mean time, 
 her brother-in-law, or rather her late husband's 
 brother, had repudiated his wife, and applied to 
 the bishop, as the other had done, for leave to 
 address the lady, which was immediately granted, 
 and the lady received directions from his lordship 
 to look upon her relative as her future husband ; 
 but the lady proved refractory, and positively re- 
 fused to accept him, alleging, as an excuse, 
 their being so nearly allied by marriage, and 
 there being children on both sides, and the mo- 
 ther of his children still living. But all excuses 
 were vain ; her ghostly father was determined 
 upon the match, and she was commanded to 
 come to St. Jago, and remain in one of the 
 
297 
 
 nunneries attached to St. Francis. The prelate's 
 mandate was absolute, and she was obliged to 
 obey. Hither then the lady and children came ; 
 and here she was to remain till a dispensation for 
 the marriage arrived from Rome. In the mean 
 time, the repudiated lady's family, considering 
 her as very ill used, sent to Rome a messenger 
 also, with every necessary document, to lay be- 
 fore his Holiness, to prevent the dispensation 
 being obtained, backed also by a memorial from 
 the family of the young lieutenant-governor. 
 When I came to St. Jago, this was the situation 
 in which matters stood, and with which Father 
 Pablo made me acquainted ; and that they much 
 feared no dispensation would arrive, as they had 
 heard some vague account of the perilous situ- 
 ation of his Holiness. But the bishop was so 
 determined that the match should take place before 
 he set out on his visitation, that every thing had 
 been arranged for the purpose, and the day that 
 the president was taken ill was the one fixed on 
 to unite the young widow to a man that it is 
 said she absolutely detested. It was to take 
 place at the summer palace, to which I informed 
 you my Superior and myself were to have gone, 
 to be present at the marriage-ceremony. Happy 
 indeed was it for all parties, that the illness of 
 one great man prevented its taking place. But, 
 although it was obliged to be postponed by the 
 
298 
 
 absence of the bishop, yet he still determined on 
 its completion ; and the president getting better, 
 the day was once more fixed, and was the very 
 next to that of my affair in St. Bruno's wood, and 
 which, as I told you, caused so much alarm to 
 Father Pablo ; for, on my relating my adventure, 
 he instantly comprehended the business and the 
 result, he being certain it could be no other 
 than the young widow and her lover at Lima' 
 and he also drew a conclusion what a confusion 
 and uproar would be at the palace as soon as her 
 flight was known: he well knew also the vin- 
 dictive spirit of his lordship, and the danger I 
 should be in, was it to be known that I was in 
 any manner acquainted with it. This was the 
 reason .he enjoined me silence, and directed my 
 confinement as in a fever. It was well these 
 precautions were taken, and that none knew of 
 my adventure but the Father. There has been, 
 it seems, a great many taken up as supposed 
 aiders and abettors in her escape; but so well 
 was it managed by the lover, that not the small- 
 est clue as yet has been found to clear up the 
 mystery of her elopement. Every religious house 
 in the city and its environs has been minutely 
 searched, not having the least idea that she left 
 the house before morning, and, by the time she 
 was missed, the lovers must have been at Val- 
 pariso, and safe on board a ship ; and it is not 
 
299 
 
 till yesterday that his lordship thought of sending 
 to Valpariso. Thus you see the denouement of 
 my adventure, and I earnestly hope the lovers 
 are now far beyond the reach rf arbitrary 
 power. 
 
 His lordship has fixed the time for our departure 
 for the Conception, to which he purposes to go 
 direct, and visit the other cities on his return. 
 I am to see him this evening, being one among 
 the few he chooses to converse with on indifferent 
 subjects. I am cautioned by Father Pablo not 
 to hint that I am by any means acquainted with 
 what has occurred respecting the lady. What 
 an excellent and good man is this Superior of 
 mine ; the more I am with him, the more do I 
 love and respect him: ten such men as him would 
 redeem the whole nation. He studiously avoids 
 speaking of the missions. My ever-lamented Fa- 
 ther Hernandez seems constantly present to his 
 rnind. In him the good Superior lost the friend 
 and companion of his youth : they were alike 
 unhappy at their outset in life ; both were doomed 
 to meet with severe trials, which both bore with 
 the most unshaken constancy for eighteen years. 
 They were missionaries in the province of Uru- 
 guay, but though at the same time in the same 
 province, they were six hundred miles apart ; 
 but yet found means to communicate their afflic- 
 tions to each other, for, without such consolation, 
 
300 
 
 they could not have lived. Believe me, my friend, 
 I find more sincere and heartfelt pleasure in con- 
 verse with this amiable man, than I ever felt at 
 Rome, when surrounded by all the great philo- 
 sophers, divines, and sophists. I listened to 
 their learned jargon without feeling the smallest 
 interest. I attended their conversazioni, only 
 because it was the fashion ; and heard, perhaps, 
 a long dissertation on the leg of a fly, or the leg 
 of something more vile, and all to display their 
 erudition and their pride. Here, on the con- 
 trary, every conversation I hold with this truly 
 learned and good man, teems with instruction 
 and information. 
 
 I shall not, I fear, be able to complete my 
 promise respecting Father Savedro at Mendoca, 
 a suffering victim for the sins of his fathers ; 
 but I hope I shall at my return. You will feel 
 an interest in his fate, for I think you in part 
 knew his family. I mentioned him to Father 
 Pablo, and find that he is not a stranger to 
 the events that caused him to leave Europe. 
 This good man expressed much concern at his 
 unmerited fate. I had entertained a hope to 
 have heard from him before I left St. Jago, but 
 that cannot be now. Father Pablo has pro- 
 mised to aid me in arranging the missionary 
 papers to send to you, with all the kindness of 
 a parent. 
 
301 
 
 Yesterday we held a long converse respect- 
 ing the Indians, and of the first conquest of 
 this country by the Spaniards. This is the 
 only subject on which I ever hear him speak 
 with acrimony. The cruelty of the Spaniards 
 seems to harrow up his soul whenever it 
 chances to be the subject of conversation. He 
 laments bitterly that even at this distance of 
 time, the wounds of the Indians seem to bleed 
 afresh on the arrival of every new governor, 
 whenever the smallest opportunity offers to gra- 
 tify their malignant spirit. He says, he is well 
 convinced, unless some great revolution should 
 take place in this new world, that many nations 
 of the Indians will absolutely become extinct. 
 The population has decreased in an alarming 
 degree for these last twenty years, and is felt 
 more and more every succeeding year. Whether 
 the Indians have retired to more remote districts, 
 or they have been cut off by the small pox, or 
 epidemic fevers, whatever may be the cause, 
 certain it is, there are not now but very few 
 townships that can send, if called upon, above 
 a fourth part of the number they usually did. 
 
 These deficiencies are not so visible in Chili 
 as in the provinces of Tucuman, Buenos Ayres, 
 Cuyo, and Las Pampas. In the two latter it is 
 most severely felt. The presidency Indians are 
 daily diminishing by slow and imperceptible 
 
302 
 
 means; and he fears will shortly altogether re- 
 turn to their former roving and unsettled habits. 
 As none will be found capable of holding, in 
 the bands of society, so many thousands, as those 
 of the missionaries did : there must inevitably be 
 fulfilled the words of the Scripture, that the 
 last state of these men will be worse than the 
 first. Adieu. 
 
303 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 City of the Conception, Dec. 1813. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 AT length I have the happiness to say, I am 
 left a few hours to myself, and instantly embrace 
 it to communicate to you a few more of my ob- 
 servations. This city is, without all doubt, the 
 best calculated for an immediate trade to the 
 Philippines of any on the coast of Chili. I have 
 this day been fortunate enough to fall in with a 
 pilot who has been for the last fifteen years em- 
 ployed in the trade from hence to Manilla, 
 where, he says, they always find a ready market 
 for all European goods they might chance to 
 have of any kind or sort. The product of Chili 
 sent thither is principally corn, wine, and oil, 
 copper, hides, and almonds. Also silver in bars, 
 which the merchants at Conception take at Lima 
 in exchange for their product, and send it off to 
 Manilla, by which they get from three to four 
 hundred per cent, clear profit, in time of peace : 
 and all this is done in the course of four months 
 at farthest, the whole of the voyage being made 
 within the tropics. I very much regret my igno- 
 
3O4 
 
 ranee in nautical and commercial affairs, other, 
 wise I could, I think, clearly point out the im- 
 mense advantages that would arise to our nation, 
 were we once in possession of the means of a free 
 traffic to those islands. But you will say, how 
 could such a desirable object be attained, seeing 
 we are at war in Europe, and shall find work 
 enough upon our hands at home ? This I will 
 allow, but ^t the same time can see no reason 
 why we might not be able to equip a small fleet 
 or squadron to send hither, and with them, a few 
 good officers of the army to assist and bring about 
 the restoration of the Indians. This city, as 
 being so remote from the metropolis of the pro- 
 vince, might be taken, in my opinion, with very 
 little loss to either party : notwithstanding the 
 strength of their forts, and the happy situation 
 of the city itself, there is that within it, at pre- 
 sent, that convinces me, I am right in hazarding 
 such a conjecture. I do not regard their garri- 
 son, strong as it is, as of a nature to damp the cou- 
 rage and undaunted ardour of Britons, when 
 roused to exertion in so honourable a cause, and 
 which would be justified by Heaven. In the 
 whole of our progress, I did not remark a single 
 countenance that beamed with true genuine hila- 
 rity ; not even when his lordship entered the city, 
 at which time it is the usual etiquette for all the 
 military, regulars and militia, to turn out, and 
 
305 
 
 line the streets, with all the crown and civil officers 
 in their formalities, and, in short, all the inha- 
 bitants, of what rank or class soever. The streets 
 are thronged, from the precincts of the city to 
 the grand place in which the cathedral stands, 
 all doing homage as he passes ; considering 
 their spiritual lord as a being superior even to 
 Majesty: but I am told his lordship's reception 
 on this occasion was not attended with half the 
 pomp and parade that heretofore awaited the 
 grand prelate's entree. There has recently been 
 a commotion of the Indians at a presidency about 
 twenty leagues from hence, under the protection 
 of St. Gabriel, but which was under the more 
 immediate control of the bishop. Some inno- 
 vations were attempted to be made, which not 
 one of the community could be brought to accede 
 to ; and the consequence was, that one morning 
 when the usual bell rung for prayers, the rector 
 was surprised to find that no one attended. 
 The fiscal was immediately applied to, but he was 
 absent, and, in a very short time, it was found 
 the whole township was fled, and the fiscal with 
 them. None but the rector, and his curate, and 
 three servants, were to be met with. It is sup- 
 posed that they are gone over to some roving 
 Indians that have been in the neighbourhood for 
 some weeks past, and who, about a fortnight be- 
 
306 
 
 fore, had been down in considerable numbers, 
 and menaced the inland forts. There is, I am 
 convinced, something to be dreaded, but of what 
 nature I cannot possibly divine. All seem to be 
 very busily employed in every department of the 
 state. The religious that used to be always in 
 the fore-ground, are now, it is evident, returning 
 to the back. French manners, teeming with 
 irreligion, have reached even this part of the 
 world. Not a word is dropped in conversa- 
 tion which in any manner alludes to the re- 
 cent transactions in Europe ; all companies are 
 studiously silent ; and so very preposterous is 
 their silence, I am provoked to laughter at times 
 to see how ingeniously they torment themselves. 
 There are several French merchants here, but I 
 know not how it is they will not be brought into 
 familiar converse ; although I am considered as 
 one of the French king's most faithful subjects, 
 yet they all politely shun me. Now would I give, 
 with the highest degree of pleasure, a thousand 
 piastres, to receive a letter from you, to inform 
 me what is in agitation on your side the line, that 
 can possibly affect a people residing at so remote 
 a distance. I have twice hinted to my good 
 Father my wishes to hear from my friends ; but 
 he also courted silence. The last time he stopped 
 me short by saying, " My son, be content, I pray 
 
307 
 
 you, with what you already know ; time alone 
 must accomplish your wishes : let us hope that 
 we may return in safety next season to Buenos 
 Ayres, where I think you will find every wish of 
 yours gratified, I own this long stay far ex- 
 ceeds the purposed time of my absence ; but 
 none of us can presume to be certain what he will 
 do to-morrow : all must be left to the great Dis- 
 poser of our lives. He alone sees and knows 
 what is fittest for us, and, in his good time, will 
 accomplish all. I must beg you will be upon 
 your guard with whom you converse, even 
 among the Brothers, as I am not certain of their 
 fidelity to their vows ; and any man that makes 
 an engagement with his God, and does not scru- 
 pulously abide by it, is, by no means, worthy the 
 friendship of an honest man. I do not mean 
 that you should deprive yourself of society ; con- 
 tinue, therefore, to mix with all as usual, but 
 trust none. There are some disagreements at 
 present subsisting respecting a confraternity of 
 Indians ; how it will be decided I cannot take 
 upon me to say. I am one of those that would 
 strongly recommend new laws to be introduced 
 and adopted by mild and conciliatory means. 
 I can see no good can possibly arise from coercive 
 measures, or opposing force to force ; it will not 
 do ; yet it is in council decided to bring back by 
 
 x2 
 
308 
 
 force of arms the township that has fled. This, 
 I am convinced, will not be effected. They 
 might, by soothing means, be influenced, but 
 not by violence ; and sorry I am to think my 
 lord bishop should issue": such orders at a crisis 
 like this, when the Indians' minds are inflamed 
 with anger at what they deem an encroachment 
 on their liberty and privileges ; and it is the 
 more to be lamented, because these Indians and 
 their families are voluntary Christians, and came 
 of their own free will to be baptized, and formed 
 into a Christian community about twenty years 
 ago, at which time, the prejudices against the 
 Spaniards were carried to an alarming height by 
 numberless tribes, and the disaffected were by 
 far the most powerful ; therefore, these worthy 
 men should never have been molested. On the 
 contrary, they should have had privileges and 
 exemptions granted them, as they bid fair to 
 have been a considerable community, the popu- 
 lation having increased greatly within these last 
 fifteen years ; and they have proved themselves 
 the most faithful friends of the Spaniards in all 
 cases, and at all times, when their services were 
 required. My mind is at this moment filled with 
 doubts and fears of what may be the probable 
 issue of this injudicious decision of attempting to 
 recover these friendly people, who are, by nature, 
 
309 
 
 of the most forbearing disposition ; but, once 
 roused to opposition, none are more desperate or 
 determined : nothing but death ends the struggle. 
 But we have to thank all the governors and their 
 descendants for the blood that has been wan- 
 tonly shed. Their pride, cupidity, and rapacity, 
 will, in the end, greatly lessen, if not wholly de- 
 stroy the power* of the Spanish monarchy in 
 this great empire: for it is a known fact, that 
 to establish permanent power, and to civilize 
 savage people, they must be treated with hu- 
 manity and patient attention ; but the Spani- 
 ards, without exception, are absolutely destitute 
 of these virtues. Those who come from Spain, 
 have uniformly had but one object in view, that 
 of mending their fortunes ; and, to accomplish 
 which, they care not to what desperate measures 
 they have recourse. They are, in themselves, 
 above all species of industry : they would rather 
 die for want, than apply to mechanic arts or 
 labour of any sort : and, as they are determined 
 upon getting rich by some means or other, they 
 fix on the poor defenceless Indians as the only 
 instruments by which they can attain their desired 
 object. The consequence of late is, that the 
 Indians, since the expulsion of the Jesuits, have 
 been oppressed beyond all former example. The 
 heavy impositions that have been laid upon them 
 
310 
 
 by every succeeding commander, whether in 
 church or state, has sunk them to a situation of 
 misery beyond description, and which it has been 
 found they are unequal to bear, thousands having 
 annually died under the rod of brutal power : but, 
 of late, it seems to be an arrangement made by 
 the Indians of the interior to come in large 
 squadrons near the Spanish settlements, and 
 make a real or pretended attack on all Spanish 
 towns, or wherever there are any Indians em- 
 ployed by the Spaniards. As soon as their arrival 
 is known, every Indian, whether old or young, 
 will try to effect their escape, and take refuge 
 among their independent brethren. These, of 
 course, relate the afflictions they have endured, 
 and that serves to strengthen the hatred and ab- 
 horrence they have inherited against the Spa- 
 niards, and not only against them personally, 
 but against their religion, and from this cause 
 spring all the disorders with which we are 
 at this moment threatened ; for this mode of 
 going over to the roving Indians in such great 
 numbers at once, as they have done of late, appears 
 to argue a settled plan of operations, concerted by 
 some able caciques, in order, I think, to concentrate 
 and ascertain how many of their friends are in 
 bondage, and to draw them off in security, amidst a 
 formidable number, sufficient to overawe the 
 
311 
 
 Spaniards, who might be rash enough to attempt 
 their recovery, demanding them as their slaves. 
 " On my journey to Cordova, and from thence 
 to St. Jago, our caravan was surrounded eleven 
 times ; but fortunately for us we had been attacked 
 by a party led on by an aged cacique, who was a 
 man of great power and influence, and who hap- 
 pened to have some knowledge of me, on an affair 
 wherein one of his people was accused of a crime 
 that condemned him to death. I happened to be 
 present at his condemnation, and having reasons 
 to think he had been unjustly accused and con- 
 demned, I took upon me to request a suspen- 
 sion for three days : with difficulty I obtained it, 
 and instantly set about an investigation of the 
 affair, and most fortunately succeeded in proving 
 his innocence : on the second day, the proof I 
 brought was conclusive, and the youth was liber- 
 ated and restored to his friends. I had never seen 
 the cacique from that period to the time of my 
 journeying to Cordova ; and it was the third time 
 that we had been set upon by the Indians, that I 
 first saw him; the two former were only scouring 
 parties of Indians, who were satisfied with a boon 
 of a few bottles of wine arid brandy, with which 
 they left us at liberty to pursue our journey. 
 But the third time they issued from a wood, in 
 such numbers, and headend by their caciques, 
 
312 
 
 that we must inevitably have fallen into their power, 
 had not this good old Indian recognised me : he 
 was nearly in the centre of the circle, formed by 
 the chiefs, when we descended from the waggons 
 to pass before them, to ascertain who and what 
 we were. I cannot describe to you the sensa- 
 tions I felt, when I saw the principal chief advance, 
 throwing his spear on the ground, w ith a counte- 
 nance overspread with apparent joy and gratitude. 
 The whole movement halted in an instant, and I 
 was, to the astonishment of all, clasped to the 
 bosom of this venerable man. I did not recollect 
 him ; he presently explained, and introduced me 
 to all the chiefs, as the preserver of his only heir, 
 for such it seems the young man was. From this 
 incident the w 7 hole caravan was protected to Cor- 
 dova, and from thence to St. Jago. Thus you 
 may see, my son, that in the breast of an Indian, 
 gratitude for a single good office, done towards 
 him, binds more strongly than all the vaunted 
 bonds of the most refined Christian. And happy 
 indeed am I, whenever I reflect upon the circum- 
 stance, as this single incident, alone, would con- 
 firm all that I have said of the manly virtues and 
 excellent dispositions of the Indians in general. 
 1 have urged my opinion strongly in the council, 
 that mildness and persuasion only will effect any 
 positive good with the Indians, either to retain 
 
313 
 
 those at present under our subjection, or to recall 
 those that are gone : whether my advice may have 
 any effect I know riot, but I should hope it would, 
 forthe sake of all: but be circumspect, I beg you; 
 we shall soon I trust be more tranquil, if my ad- 
 vice is attended to. As soon as the present busi- 
 ness is ended, I think we shall proceed to the Im- 
 perial on some particular affairs, but I cannot dis- 
 tinctly say how long it will be before we set out ; 
 but I should suppose in the course of eight or ten 
 days/' Here our converse was interrupted by a 
 message from the bishop ; which I was extremely- 
 sorry for, as I always feel such secret pleasure in 
 spending my hours with this most excellent man. 
 He is not a Spaniard by birth, but a Modenese ; 
 though let him have been of what nation soever, 
 he would dignify it. 
 
 This city, in point of buildings, is not so splen- 
 did as St. Jago : all but the church and public 
 edifices belonging to the crown, are raised in a 
 plain and simple style ; the merchants here are 
 the only rich inhabitants : but, although wealthy, 
 they do not appear to live in that luxurious style 
 that others cities run into : this may in some 
 measure be attributed to its distance from the 
 metropolis,the confined revenue of the bishop, and 
 there not being so many rich monasteries as in St. 
 Jago ; nor is there such a multitude of nunneries. 
 
314 
 
 The dress of the ladies is more simple, and I think 
 I may say more modest, than at St. Jago. A mix- 
 ture of the French and Spanish every where pre- 
 vails, in all the cities, but they tell me that great re- 
 volutions in fashion have taken place within these 
 few years ; there being now no fixed standard for 
 dress, all is as capricious here, as m Europe ; from 
 whence great quantities of ladies' draperies are 
 brought; and sold in all the cities at an enormous 
 centage : all these fripperies are brought to Lima 
 from Europe, in Spanish bottoms, and from thence 
 dispersed over Chili, and the cities east of the Cor- 
 dillera. Now had I been a merchant what a fine 
 traffic I might have pursued among the ladies, who 
 would have hailed my coming with perfect delight. 
 Whereas now my coming and going is nothing 
 thought of; I am a mere nonentity : therefore, all 
 my thoughts, like the magnet, turn to one point, 
 that of seeing Paraguay in arms, by the Indians, 
 headed or led on by my countrymen, over the 
 Cordillera to Chili. I am well convinced no power 
 the Spaniards at present have, would be of force 
 sufficient to prevent the Indians from making an 
 entire conquest, and once more regaining their an- 
 cient possessions. Oh ! my friend, what a proud day 
 would that be for Britain : could I live to see it, I 
 should then say I had not lived in vain. 
 
 My time will again, I fear, be taken up in ar- 
 
315 
 
 ranging my good Superior's papers, which are to be 
 sent off very shortly to Rome. When that is finish- 
 ed I suppose we shall set off for the Imperial : but 
 be assured I shall not let pass a single hour, that 
 I may call my own, to write to you. This even- 
 ing, we spend at the governor's, where I am led 
 to expect some Frenchmen of distinction will be 
 of the party. Adieu. 
 
316 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 The City of the Conception. 
 
 TO-MORROW we set off for the Imperial, from 
 thence to Valdivia ; and I believe it is his lordship's 
 intention, to make an entire route through the 
 whole districts that are in any way dependant 
 upon this diocess ; so that I shall have plenty to 
 entertain you with at my return. One circum- 
 stance, that gives my valued friend, Father Pablo, 
 great pleasure before he goes, is, that the' design 
 of bringing back the fugitive township, vi et 
 armis, is given up, and the mild and gentle offer- 
 ings of peace, and good fellowship are now finally 
 decided on ; and two very good men have been 
 selected for the purpose of tendering the olive 
 branch of peace. 
 
 But an Indian friend, whom I conversed with 
 last night, assures me, that neither offerings of 
 peace or war will now be of any avail, he being well 
 convinced, by the route they have taken, it is their 
 determination to remain among the tribes they 
 have joined, till an event takes place, which they 
 
317 
 
 have loHg expected ; but, of what nature the 
 event may be, he did not place confidence enough 
 in me to say. 
 
 But I -certainly guess, for yesterday morning 
 one of the Indian shepherds, that resides at a 
 chagre, about a league from the town, came in 
 a great hurry to inform the community, that an 
 assembly of the Indian chiefs is to lake place in a 
 few days, in the valley of Angol, which is ex- 
 pected to be the most numerous of any that has 
 been for these last twenty years. This infor- 
 mation has caused a grand council to meet at 
 the governor's to-day. But what the result is, I 
 know not, further than that it has hastened the 
 journey of the grand Prelate. The shepherd told 
 my Superior, that after the Indian assembly broke 
 up, it would be very dangerous travelling, unless 
 his lordship's guards were more numerous than 
 they were on our journey hither. It is impossible 
 to say for what object the Indian assembly may 
 be called. It might be, he said, for war against 
 the Spaniards, or it might be only to ascertain 
 how many tribes they may be able to muster for 
 hostilities : or, it might be to see how many of 
 the tribes were reduced, in order to incorporate 
 them into others. This latter custom they fre- 
 quently adopt. When a tribe has lost its caci- 
 que, either by war, or the plague, or any other 
 disastrous event, and they find themselves too 
 
318 
 
 weak to resist any power that might be disposed 
 to oppress them ; they immediately apply to a 
 grand assembly, and, from among the caciques, 
 they choose one, under whose protection they place 
 themselves and families ; publicly acknowledging 
 him their lord, and immediately assume the lan- 
 guage and customs of the people into whom they 
 are incorporated. These people are constantly 
 known to be the most faithful of all the cacicjues' 
 subjects, as long as he himself adheres to the con- 
 dition which they stipulate, when they first enroll 
 themselves under his protection ; but if he, in 
 any ways, infringes on the agreement, they are 
 not long in determining to seek another lord ; 
 and, without any previous ceremony, quit his au- 
 thority ; and, most commonly, join the roving In- 
 dians of the interior, which last has been mostly 
 followed of late, to the great loss of the Spaniards 
 in general, as many hundreds of them, belonging 
 to the crown and the church, have not hesitated to 
 go off in the same manner, whenever they could 
 effect their escape : for this purpose, it is sup- 
 posed that such multitudes of the unsubdued In- 
 dians have hovered recently so near the towns, 
 that they might be at hand to receive and protect 
 their wretched brethren. But this plan, as I re- 
 marked to you before, must have been laid down by 
 the Indians who have come down either as tribu- 
 taries or traders, and are well acquainted with 
 
319 
 
 all the hardships and misery their fellow-creatures 
 experience. God only knows what is in agitation ; 
 but, most certainly, some great revolution is at 
 hand, either here or on your side the world. Be 
 it where it may, or on what side soever it com- 
 mences, depend upon it the other will soon follow ; 
 or at least will be attempted. But, I have not the 
 smallest hope, that the Indians, of themselves, will 
 ever make any effectual change in the system, as 
 long as they have any of their people in alliance 
 with the Spaniards, or hold any connexion what- 
 ever with them. As to their joining the dis- 
 affected Spaniards, and their French connexion, 
 that will be still worse. I can plainly see that 
 France is laying the most subtle plans, to gain a 
 firm footing here: but I firmly hope, none of their 
 schemes will take effect ; at least, in this hemis- 
 phere, wliatever they may do in Europe. I have 
 learned by accident, something of the Dukede B's. 
 errand ; which turns out exactly as I suspected, 
 when at Buenos Ayres. Three of his satellites 
 are at present here. But, surely, the Almighty 
 will not permit them to succeed. Ah, my friend ! 
 was not my honour pledged to my highly esteemed 
 Superior, how quickly could 1 unmask the whole 
 of their intrigues. Surely, the Spanish monarch 
 must be grossly cajoled, or there must be some 
 desperate men at the head of affairs in that king- 
 dom, who have power and influence to send hither 
 
320 
 
 commanders like themselves, who are too much 
 in love with French politics, to regard the good 
 or safety of the colonies. All seem to aim at selfish 
 and individual aggrandizement. I strongly sus- 
 pect, that Buonaparte's grand scheme of universal 
 monarchy has changed its object ; and instead of 
 subjugating the world in an eastern direction, he 
 means it to begin in the south ; that is, here, and 
 it has often been a matter of astonishment to me, 
 that he did not, in the first instance, cause his 
 great talents to operate in this most desirable 
 quarter, and leave the European sovereigns to 
 contend among themselves, till he himself thought 
 proper to return ; and, like an overwhelming 
 torrent, bear down all before him. But, in all 
 probability he regarded this world as too easy a 
 conquest, not at all worthy his great talents ; and 
 that nothing less than the subjection of ancient 
 monarchies could in any way gratify his inordinate 
 ambition. Without being in the least acquainted 
 with the transactions of Europe for the last eight 
 years, I have noticed the gradual advances 
 the French have made here, even at the remote 
 distance of the city from which I am now writing, 
 and the visible change I have observed in the cus- 
 toms and manners of those among whom I now 
 reside. 
 
 The ignorance I am kept in as to every thing 
 that relates to the war, leaves me only room to 
 

 321 
 
 conjecture, that our brave tars still hold dominion 
 of the sea, and, by their glorious victories keep 
 our inveterate enemy from effecting their deep 
 laid schemes on this continent; which must in the 
 end have the most direful consequences, both to 
 the poor Indians, and in fact, to the whole world, 
 should they ever be permitted to succeed. When- 
 ever the idea of such a possible evil comes across 
 my mind, I am sure to be seized with one of my old 
 fits of dejection, and feel I could almost prefer anni- 
 hilation to being witness to such an event ; so much 
 have I the interests of the poor natives at heart. 
 I have made several essays to gain information 
 of the friendly Indians, where and how far distant 
 from the city the mines are, which governor Valdivia 
 caused to be worked : all my Attempts are however in 
 vain ; they will not afford me the smallest satisfac- 
 tion ; for whether an Indian be drunk or sober, 
 he is ever obdurately silent on that subject. 1 
 have inquired respecting what became of the gold 
 that was in the Conception, at the time the city 
 was taken by Caupolicon; but all that I can learn 
 of it is a tradition that the whole was, by the 
 direction of the caciques, thrown into a lake 
 about three leagues distant, which for its depth 
 is called Del Fundo, and that five thousand 
 men were employed for the space of forty days to 
 effect it. 
 
 If this tradition be true, it may be easily guessed 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 \vhat an immense quantity there must have been, 
 of this seducing metal; which would, I think, had 
 it been brought to Europe, and the mines still 
 continued to be worked, most assuredly have 
 turned all Europe mad. Such unaccountable 
 power has it over the senses of men, and women 
 too, you may say, for I do not mean to exclude 
 the ladies from being alike infatuated ; and I am 
 of opinion, though contrary to the general re- 
 ceived one, that the loss of this stupendous quan- 
 tity of gold, and the loss of the mines, were two 
 of the greatest blessings that could be showered 
 upon mortals ; for had it been allowed to be dis- 
 seminated over Europe, all stimulus to industry 
 and enterprise would have quickly ceased, and 
 man would have become too proud, too indolent, 
 and too avaricious, to retain one single innate 
 virtue ; agriculture and commerce, the grand basis 
 of every state, would soon have been disregarded ; 
 genius would have sunk into apathy ; idleness and 
 poverty would have reigned triumphant: sensuality 
 and debauchery would have been grand auxilia- 
 ries ; and all must have sunk at last into an inevi- 
 table chaos : but the Almighty, in pity to his crea- 
 tures, and in his all-wise dispensations, mercifully 
 thought proper to overthrow in an instant, the 
 grasping and insatiable designs of man, in order 
 to convince him that he was not created to be an 
 idle, but an active and industrious being, and to 
 
323 
 
 improve the talents committed to his charge, by 
 every honest exertion in his power : and is not 
 the ground- work of our faith, founded upon that 
 basis ? I always held in the highest esteem, that 
 precept in the Alcoran, which enjoins industry, 
 and the necessity there is for even the Emperor to 
 shew a specimen of his abilities, as an artizan, 
 before the sword can be girded to his side, or he 
 be declared the chosen Sovereign of all good 
 Mussulmen. 
 
 I have this minute been directed to hold myself 
 in readiness, to commence our journey to-morrow 
 morning early ; but what route we are to take, I 
 know not, or when I shall be able to address you 
 again. However, I have arranged matters that 
 you may receive this with a large packet, among 
 which you will find six plans that I have obtained, 
 by means of a friendly Indian, with whom I have 
 exchanged names, as the most sacred bond of 
 friendship. Adieu. 
 
 2<1 June, 1814. 
 
 TIIC END. 
 
London : Printed by W. CLOWES, Northumberland-court, Strand. 
 
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 BY THE AUTHOR OF 
 
 LETTERS FROM PARAGUAY. 
 
 PRINTED FOR'R. ACKERM.4KN : 
 
 "VVTIO is also preparing for Publication, an Elementary Work, of 
 peculiar Interest, on the Construction of the Machines ac' opted in the 
 Arts and Manufacture, from the French of M. Betancourt. It will 
 afford an analytical and perspicuous Display of the various Combinations 
 which occur in the Arrangements of the Practical Machanist, with their 
 several Applications to use, and constant reference to the Engines and 
 Machinery of this and other Countries. It will be illustrated wih Thir- 
 teen Plates, of much Novelty and Elegance, and be altogether calculated 
 to engage the young Student, and gratify the more learned and practical. 
 
ACKEIIMANN'S Library also contains a large Assemblage 
 of British and Foreign Works on the Arts, with various 
 Publications connected with them, Catalogues of which, 
 with their respective Prices, may be had at his REPOSI- 
 TORY. The following are some of its curious and valuable 
 Specimens. 
 
 Atlas des Quatre Parties du Monde richement Colories fait par 
 JOIIAXIIEM BLAEWEU, 1664. 
 
 Vingt et un Volumes Grand on Folio Relies en veau corde Parfaite- 
 nient Conserves avec le Texte. 
 
 2 Volumes de la France. 
 
 2 de L'AngU'terre. 
 
 2 do L'Allernagno. 
 
 1 Volume de L'Afrique et de L'Amerique. 
 
 1 de la Chine. 
 
 1 de L'Kcosse et de L'Irlande. 
 
 1 _ du Danemarck, Schleswig, &c. 
 
 2 Volumes des Borinces unies des Paysbas. 
 
 1 Volume de Suede, de Russie, et de Pologne. 
 .1 d'Espagne. 
 
 2 Volumes d'ltalie. 
 1 Volume d'Asie. 
 
 1 d'Entrees solemnelles de divers Monarques a. Ainu 
 
 sterdam. 
 
 1 De Fetes & Tournoie de Louis XIV. 
 
 2 Volumes Des Pays bas Royaux. 
 
 Les 21 Volumes sont composes independament des Cartes, d'une 
 grande Quantite de Gravures Colories richemont en Or et Argent le plus 
 pur et en bleu d'Outremer ; les Volumes de France sont remplis de Gra- 
 vures representarit le Sucre de Louis XLV. de son Entree a Paris, &c. 
 
 Ceux d'Angleterre des principaux Evenemens du Siecles, &c. 
 
 Ceux d'Alkmagne, de Pologne, des desseins Colories de tout I'inte. 
 rieure des fame\is<'s Mines, tous sont remplis des Beaux Monumens, des 
 Bt lies Eglises, de tout ce qu'il y a de plus remarquable dans chaque Pays, 
 IPS Plans, les Armoiries, les Moimoyes, les Costumes dc chaque Pays s'y 
 trouvent. 900 Guineas. 
 
 Just Imported by R. Aclcermann. 
 
 A learned and interesting Work on the origin of Carriages and Vehicles, 
 by J. C. Ginzrof, of Munich, with 104 Engravings, representing the vari- 
 ous Vehicles used by the Greeks and Romans, in 2 vols. 4to. price &l. 5s. 
 
 H. Ac kermann lias also on sile, a hir?;e Collection of Lithographic Prints from 
 Munich, Paris, and other Parts of the Continent ; together \vitu Stones and 
 requisites for Artists and Amateurs in the Lithographic Art. 
 
ACKERMANN's 
 
 WORKS OF ART, 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 "Bowyer's Edition of Hume's History of England, 10 vols. Folio. Lond. 1805. 
 Superbly bound in Red Morocco bilk linings, 1151. 10s. 
 
 Macklin's Bible, 7 vols. Folio. Russia, elegant, 52{. 10*. 
 
 Ditto, Collectanea ad Rotanicum et Historiutn Naturalum spectantiae, (colour- 
 ed Plates), 5 Tom. 4to. 1786, 24f. 
 
 Knip, Madame, les Pigeons, le texte par C. J. Themnirk. t vol, Folio, con- 
 taining 80 exquisitely col tired Plates, boards. Pan-., 1811. 
 
 Le Vuillant, Histoire Naturelle des Peroquets ; 126 fh.e coloured Engravings. 
 
 2 vols. Folio, superb in Morocco. Paris, 1801, 667. 3s. 
 
 Dilto, ditto, des Oiseaux de Paradis &c. 2 vols. Folio, 106 coloured En- 
 gravings, Morocco, elegant. Paris, 1806. 66/. 3s. 
 
 Le Brun La Galerie de Versailles et les Deux Salons qui Faccompagncnt. 
 Folio, Paris, 1752. Superb Morocco, French Binding, 25/. 
 
 Mai kin's Gil Bias of Santillane, 4 vol'. 4io. Proof Impressions of the Plates. 
 London, 1809. Elegant in Red Morocco, 16;. 16$. 
 
 Boydell's Shakespear, 9 volumes, with Plates, Folio. And a complete Set of the 
 large Plates. Subscription Copy, tO!. 
 
 Twelve highly finished Drawings of Paris Versailles, and Neighbourhood; 
 (painted by 'I spinaste, for the late Queen of France) in an elegant Red Morocco 
 Folio, 52 f. 10*. 
 
 Hunter's Lavater : 3 vols. Royal 4to. Russia elegant. London, 17S9; very 
 fine Impressions, 40L 
 
 Hi-toire des Ordres Monastique? ; 8 vols Folio, 1714. Numerous Engravings 
 of Cestume. Half bound in Russia, 1G/. 165. 
 
 Worliclge's Etchings of Antique Gems, 180 Plates. 2 vols. 4to. large Paper. 
 London, 1763. Red Morocco, 18/. 18s. 
 
 Valentia's Viscount, Voyages and Travels to India, Egypt, Abyssinia &c 
 
 3 vols. 4to. London, I S09. Morocco elegant, 14/. 3*. G f /. ' 
 
 Costume of the Army of the British Empire, small Folio, Boards. London, 
 1815, 6f. 
 
 Encyclopedic Des Arts et Metiers, ou Dictionnaire raisonne des Sciences. 35 
 Tom. Folio. Paris, 1751, 52f. JO*. 
 
 Solvyn's, Bart. Costume ar.d Natural History of Ilimlostan. Thr new Frcnrh 
 Edition, with 300 Plates coloured. 4 vols. larjre* Folio, iio ar.ls. Paris 1812, 84f. 
 
 Ditto, 250 Prints coloured. The Original Bengal Edition. 2 vols. Folio. 
 Half bound Russia, 3 1/. 10s. 
 
 Danicll's Voyage to India : consUting of 50 coloured Engravings. Small Folio 
 Russia gilt, 12f. 12s. 
 
 Daniell's India, G parts, 4to. Boards reduced from the larger Work, 18M8*. 
 Ditto, with the Platea coloured, 3I/. 10s. 
 
 Denon, Voyage dans la Basse et la Haute Egypte pendant les Campagnes de 
 General Buonaparte. Folio. Paris, 1802. Superbly bound in Russia, 36J. 15*. 
 Boydell's Illustrations of Shakespeare. Folio. Morocco elegnnt, 17.'. 10*. 
 
 Bartolozzi's ht things from Guercino. 2 vols. Folio, bound in one. Russia ele- 
 gant. Early Impr99ffoM t 24/. 
 
 Hogarth's Works complete, Folio Russia. Early Impressions, 311. Ws. 
 
 Gaieriedu Dm d'Orleans 3 vols. 1-olio. Boards, containing S55 Engravinrs 
 very early Iniprt^sions. Paiis, 1786, 50/. 
 
 Tableaux Historiques des Campagnes d'ltalie, sous la Condqitc de Napolean 
 Premier. 28 Engravings, Proof Impressions. Folio, half bound iu Morocco 
 Paris, 1806, 25 J. 
 
 La Musee Francais, 4 vols. large Folio. Half bound Russia, upwards of 340 
 Plates. A Subscription Copy. 189J. 
 
 Spix, S. B. Cephaiogeocsis, sive Capitii Ossei Structura, Formntio et Sicnifi- 
 catio per omncAuimalium clawe f &c. &c. 17 Plates, Fiio, 
 > 1 1 1 y 
 
YV'aldstein, F. et P. Kitaibel, M. D. Descriptions ef Icones PJantortim Rari- 
 orum Hungariae. 3 vols. Folio, coloured Plates, half bound. Vienna, 1802, 421. 
 
 Tableau Historiques de la Revolution Francais 3 vols. Folio, Boards^ Up- 
 wards of 140 Engravings, an early Copy. Paris, 1804, 351. 
 
 Don Quixote: with Engravings, from Pictures by R. Smirke, R< A. 4vols. 
 Royal Quarto. 25 Guineas. 
 
 Le Peintre Graveur, par Adam Bartsch, 15 vols. Vienna, 1818. 15 Guineas. 
 
 History of Amsterdam, by Wagenaar, with many Plates, 3 vols. Folio, 8gs. 
 
 Icones Plantarum sponte nascentium in Regnis Daniose ct Norvegise in duoati- 
 h'ls Slesvici et Holsatiae, ct in comitaiibus Oldenburg! et Delmenhorsiias ad illus- 
 Uandum opus de iisdum Plautis, Flegio fussu exaraodum, Florae Danioae Nomine 
 inscriptum ; tditae ab ejus operis auctore, Georgio Christiano Oeder Ilafmae 
 3i.Dcc.KXVi. Price 40Z. 
 
 Description des Ceremonies et-cles Fetes qui ont eu lieu pour le Manage de S. M. 
 L'Empereur Napoleon avec S. A. J. Madame L' Aichiduchesse Marie-Louise D'Au- 
 triche, par Charles Percier et P. F. L. Fontaine. A Paris, de L'imprimerie de 
 1 J . Didot, 1'aiuee, 1810. Laige Folio. Five Guineas. 
 
 Smith's Antiquities of Westminster, large Paper, Morocco elegant, \5l. 15s. 
 
 Ditto, Plates only, large paper, Tl.ls. 
 
 Daniel's Rural Sports, 3 vols. red Morocco, 10Z. 10s. 
 
 "Wood's ;fc>ography, 3 vols. Russia, 101. IQs. 
 
 Oeuvres de Delia Bella, 5f. 5*. 
 
 Critical Review, from the beginning to Vol. 115, Calf, 25?. 
 
 Costumes of Great Britain, by W. H. Pyne, 60 col. plates, half bound, 9L 9*. 
 
 Ditto China, 60 coloured elates, half bound, Russia, 91. 9s. 
 
 Ditto Austria, 50 coloured plates, half bonnd, Russia, 11. Ms. 6d. 
 
 Ditto Russia, 78 coloured plates, half bound, Russia, 91 9s. 
 
 Ditto Turkey, 60 coloured platen, half bound, Russia, 9Z. 9s. 
 
 Punishments of China, 22 coloured plates, half bound, Russia, 31. 13s. 6d. 
 
 Les Peoples de la Russie ou description des Moeurs, usages & Costumes des di- 
 vers Nations de 1' Empire de Rassie. -This beautiful Work is in two large Folio 
 Volumes, with 96 highly coloured Plates, by Count Rechberg, of Munich, 35gs. 
 * * R ACKER.MANN has the honour to inform the Subscribers to Wilson's 
 American Ornithology, that he has just received the last 5 Volumes, which 
 completes this most interesting and rare Work : a few whole Copies may be had 
 at the above place in 9 vols. Imperial Quarto Price 36 Guineas. 
 
 \ new-invented Writing Board, for improving the most irregular, or stiff 
 Hand- Writing and adding greatly to the Kase and Convenience of Wr.tmg in general. 
 Sold a Mr A^ckermann'^ "l 01 , Strand, and at all the Booksellers and Stationers to 
 the United Kingdom; price of the Beard 15*. ; with Desk and Lock II. Us. 6d.- 
 Asa Desk locks up and unfolds like a Backgammon Board. One side is made to 
 cVmaiu the Paper, Inkstaad, Pens, &c. the other side the Apparatus to write upon. 
 The paper i' pLed on the sliding board, betvv een two parallel bars ; the hand rest, 
 on aboard placed across the bars, like a bridge, winch ,s called the guiding board ; 
 for the little finger being placed on the edge of that board, and hiding along, carries 
 the pen in a straight line across the paper. When one line i, wntten, nothing but a 
 iglfa ction of the fore finger of the left hand is requisite to raise the sliding board 
 with the paper to the distance of one line. The advantages of this machine aie ob- 
 viu Ruled lines have the great inconvenience of fixing the eye of the writer on 
 IhTli.es whereby the attention i, partly withdrawn from the format ion of the letters, 
 and .Thai I and action of the arm is'stille-ed. These disadvantages are entirely 
 i.ted l,v t he machine, the slight and mechanical ferlinj of the luile linger against 
 the guiding board being quite sulhcient to keep the hand in a straight line. I in 
 connivance s.ffords an advantage of peculiar dispatch to peix.ns in the 
 pyinjr, for it enables them to go on writing perfectly straight, win 
 the paper from which they copy. The- writing nuuh.ne has I!M, chief ! ldv ; 1 ltd ^> 
 es ential both to health and good hand-writing, that the wnier must MI >trfticni Deior 
 the board, having his hand continually (whrther w.iting on the top, middle, o. 
 torn of the page,) at the same di-taiue from the body. - The AGor.RAPH, h 
 wiU not only be found useful to form the hand, but likewise to afford the utmost con- 
 renience as a writing dek. iJ J 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWE1 
 
 LOAN 
 
 This book is due on the ! 
 
 on the date to 
 
 Renewed books are su 
 
 REC'D Li 
 
 
 
 JUN 111 
 
 . '<ut* ^->;~ 
 
 
 fiEC. CIR. 
 
 " " 
 
 LD 2lA-50m-8,'61 
 (C1795slO)476B 
 
 General Library . 
 University of California 
 Berkeley 
 
: 63 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
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