, \ LA PLATA, THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION, PARAGUAY. BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE EXPLORATION OF THE TRIBUTARIES OF THE RIVER LA PLATA AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES DURING THE YEARS 1853, '54, '55, AND '56, UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT. BY THOMAS J. PAGE, U. S. N., OOMMANDEB OP THE EXPEDITION. itl) Iftap anir ft'mnerctjs (Engramngs. LONDON: TRUBNER & CO., 60 PATERNOSTER ROW. 1859. PRESERVATION COPY ADDED ORIGINAL TO BE RETAINED a 2 5 199 f Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, by HARPER & BROTHERS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Urquiza's Decree, opening the "Waters of La Plata. The Expedition. Its Ob- jects. The Water Witch. Her Sea Qualities. The Voyage. Arrival at Rio de Janeiro. Correspondence with the Government. Permission granted to as- cend to Albuquerque. Further Extension of this Privilege. Pamperos. The Morgan Wheel. French Charts. Arrival at Montevideo. Quarantine. Yellow Fever. Montevideo. Its Trade and Population. Colonel Paunero....Page 25 CHAPTER II. Arrival at Buenos Ayres. Its Site. Winds. Higueritas. Trade. Buildings. Fruits and Flowers. Landing at Buenos Ayres. Besiegers and Besieged. Our Ministers. Treaty with President Lopez. Urquiza's Army. Visit at Head- quarters. Personal Appearance of the General. He interests himself in the Expedition. Detention at Buenos Ayres. Letter from Mr. Pendjeton. Treach- ery in the Squadron. Joint Treaty of Navigation. Martin Garcia Channel. New Channel discovered. Letter from Messrs. Schenck and Pendleton. Break- ing up of the Siege. Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch. Pa- lermo, the former Residence of Rosas. The Dictator and his Daughter Manu- elita. Urquiza's Dog. The Director's Demeanor. The Voyage. Ladies on board. Temperance of Urquiza. He leaves the Water Witch. Return to Buenos Ayres. Tribute to British Officers 35 CHAPTER III. Letter from Mr. Schenck. Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza. Framing of the Treaty. Marking Cattle. Farm and Residence of the Director. Os- triches, Partridges, and Deer : Mode of hunting them. Horses. Return to Buenos Ayres. The Galera. Reception at Concepcion. The College. The Ball. Native Grace of Spanish American Women. Leave Concepcion. The Water Witch. Coaling at Buenos Ayres. Final Departure for the Ascent of the River , 51 CHAPTER IV. Chronometers. Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. Construction of Charts. Delta of the Parana. Diamante. Fruits. Oranges. Peaches. Beautiful Scenery. Mouths of the Parana. The Parbon. The Gualaguay. The Repunte. Periodical Risings of Water. Islands. The Seibo and Sause. San Pedro. Obligardo. Passage forced by the English and French. Island Formations. Variations of Channel. Pilots. Estancieros. San Nicholas. Rosario. Its commercial Importance. Advantages over Buenos Ayres. Winds. Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq. Banks of the River. Convent of San Lorenzo. The Tercero. Mr. Campbell's Survey. The Chaco Hills. Scenery. Diaman- te. Ferries. Trees. The Algarroba and Espinilla 64 158443 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Left Bank of the Parana. Survey made by Lieutenant Powell. Climbing the Tree. Victoria. Descending the Parana Cito. Puerto de los Bues. Guala- guay. El Puerto de Ybicui. A Canal. Paciencia. Physical Changes. The Colastine. Capella de San Jose. Santa Fe. The Chaco. Its Inhabitants.- Parana. Bajada. Progress. Pine Lumber. Commercial Prospects. Cedar. Surface Soil. Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report. Plan of Parana. Buildings and Population. River Banks. Estancia of an Englishman. Feliciana. La Paz. The Jefe de Politica and the Curate. Fuel. Pass of San Juan. Course of the River. Sullivan's Charts. Wild Fowl. The Espinilla. Capibaras or Capinchas. Locusts. Catching a Deer. Riacho Caraguatay. Riacho San Geronimo. Goya. Capincha Chase. Bella Vista. Productions. Fishing. Tobacco Island. Hunting for Specimens. Taquari Chico. An Orange Estan- cia. The Camilote. Arrival at Corrientes. Visit to the Governor. Visit from the Governor. City of Corrientes. Easy Navigation of the River. Fine Woods for Fuel. Resources of the River Provinces. Table of Distances Page 79 CHAPTER VI. The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana. Affluents of the Paraguay. Enter the Territory of Paraguay. Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Republic of Paraguay. Visit from the Admiral. Boundaries of the South American Re- publics. Banks of the Paraguay. Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery. Guardias and Piquetes. Tres Bocas. Guardia Humaita. President Lopez and the Bra- zilian Squadron. Vermejo River. Pillar. Caiia. Caranday Palm. The Ti- biquari. Salute of Musketry. Villa Franca. The Commandante. The Las- so and Bolas. Oliva. Villa Villeta, A Cigar with the Commandante. San Antonio. Mount Lambare. Arrival at Asuncion. Rise and Fall of the Para- guay 105 CHAPTER VII. Interviews with President Lopez. Negotiations. Residence at Asuncion. The City. Buildings. Francia's Tomb. Francia's Cruelties. Isolation of Para- guay. Francia's System. Dahlgreen's Howitzer. The American Company. Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day. Reception at the Government House. Grand Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice. The Speech 116 CHAPTER VIII. Departure from Asuncion. The President's Quinta. Salinas. A Hill. The Con- fuso. The Salado. Estancia of Lopez. Variety of Woods and Fruits. Que- bracho. Capiepomo. Guazu. Cattle. Hospitality. River Scenery. An Accident to Engine. Piquete Ytati. Wood for Steamers. Plants and Shrubs. River Jejui. San Pedro. Another Accident to Engine. Guaycuru Rembiu. Government Estancia. The Pacu Fish. River Changes. The Ypane. Ar- rival at Concepcion 128 CHAPTER IX. Concepcion. Yerba. Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade. Favorable Reception. Guembe and Guembetaya. The Water Witch. A Ball at the Commandante's House. A Quandary. Danced down. Sefior Tachiera. Costumes. Wood for Steamer. Rio Saladillo. Salinas. Indians. The Caciques. A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke. Palm Forest. Salvador. Heat. CONTENTS. xi State of the Country. The Abatiguaniba. Caraguatay Guazu. Manufactures of its Thread. Thorns converted into Needles. The Datil. Reptile Hunting. Supplies. Value of Hide. Piquete Arracife. Heat. Paso Melo. Mount- ed Indians from the Chaco. Piquete Judiarte. Guardia Apatuya. Beautiful Scenery. The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu. The Children of the Gran Chaco. Equestrian and Pedestrian. Size, Strength, and Longevity. An Octogenarian in the Flower of his Age. Nabidigua. TheMbayas. Their Slaves. The Gua- rani. Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines. No Word for God or Divinity. Ahar- aigichi. Jupa. Inferior Creatures or not? .'...Page 136 CHAPTER X. Rio Appa. A Tapir. Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Bounda- ries. Letter from Mr. Hudson. Point Rock. Sierra Siete Punta. Pan de Azucar. Ascent of the Mountain. The View. Speculations on the Future of this Country. Round Top. Fort Bourbon. Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay. Bahia Blanca. Vuelta Pariquito. Capon Chico. A Boa. Dorado, Pacu, and Palometa. Ascent of the Bahia Blanca. Camelotas. Suspending of the Bottle to a Tree. Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden. Grant by the Congress of Bolivia. Decree of the 'Supreme Government. Importance at- tached to the Navigation of the Otuquis. Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauri- cio Back. Fort Coimbra. Flattering Expressions of the Commandante. The Guaycurus. Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians. The Canoe 160 CHAPTER. XI. The MoroDorito. Curalo Todo. Tea, Coffee, and Milk. Position of Anchorage off Albuquerque. The Miranda. The Tacuary. Azara's Maps. The Cam- barasa. The Paraguay Mini. Corumba. The Guatambu. Hunting the Ja- guar. Fruits. Return to Albuquerque. Village of Mbayas. An Indian Mis- sion. Rice and Cotton. Schools. The Padre. A Dance. Missionary Effort. The Jesuits. The Dinner on board the Water Witch. Trade of Cuyaba. Bolivian Refugees. The Grotto Inferno. Capture of a Sentinel. Fate of the Refugees. Birds. The Jaguar. Its Ferocity. Lenguas Indians. The Com- mandante wears a long Face. The Yellow Parrot. Anchored off Asuncion. A Storm brewing 182 CHAPTER XII. The Captain of the Port. Momentous Question. A Call at the Government House. The Secretary of State. Visit to the President. The Anniversary of Paraguayan Independence. Minor Explorations. Congress of 1812. The Consuls. Francia. Provisional Junta. Another Congress. President Lo- pez. The Constitution. Ignorance of the People. Society. Senoritas and Flowers. Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers. The Siesta. Another Call upon the President. The Vaquerano. A Tour into Paraguay. SenorDon JaimiCor- vallan. Periju. Senora Dalmacia. Villa Rica. Don Louis Homan. The Tebiquari. The Recado. Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria. The Dinner. The Peripo. Mr. Francis Wisner. Sefior Sergente Lopez. Senora Clara. Manufacture of Cigars. The Taquari. Fertility of the Country. Medical Men. Healthful Climate. Puebla Carmen. Don Mariana. The Yun. El Secre- tario. Ytapua 198 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. Francia. Religion and the Churches. Ytapua. The Commandante and Soldiers. Navigability of the Parana. Carmen. Equipments of Horses. Mission of San Cosmi. Estancia San Rafael. Mate'. Frescoes. D. Ignacio's Horse. Capilla San Martin. The Supper. Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. Estancia of Seflora Casara. The Merchant President. Sefior Cabenas. Capilla Caa- pucu. Sefior Vascone'ellos. The Diezmo. Public Lands. Seiior Bergarran. Iron Works. The Waiter. The Superintendent. Ibicui. Mineral Districts. 'Products and Exports of Paraguay. The Surgeon of the Water Witch. Beauty and Fertility of the Country. Presidential Election. No Admittance. A Motion to make the President Emperor. The Constitution. Individual Wealth. Cotton. Lists of Exports from Asuncion .......................... Page 224 CHAPTER XIV. Expedition under Geronimo Metorras. Colonel Arrias. Murillo and Lapa. Colonel Ariadne Cornejo. Don Pablo Soria. Steamer Pilcomayo. Lieutenant Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay. Want of Game and Fish. Force of the Current. Tobas Indians. Nacurutu. Palms. Rio Saco. De loi Carui. Visit to the Toldo Paso da Lurbi. River ascended one hundred and twenty Miles. Channel. Descending a Cascade. A Hunt with Dr. Car- ter. Lost. Signals. The Howitzer replies. Safe Return. Descending the River. Mr. Hickman. Letter from Mr. Dana .................................... 243 CHAPTER XV. Visit to the President. Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo. Victoria Regia or Mais del Agua. Orange Groves. The Plow. Posta Contaro. San Cosmi. Ytati. Hacienda Yrisbugua. Race with an Ostrich. Breaking a Horse. Troubles at Asuncion. Visit to the President. Consultation with Mr. Hopkins. Return to the Government-house. Last Interview with his Excellency. The Permit. Correspondence with Mr. Falcon. Council at Head-quarters. Americans on board, descending the River. The Navy heaves in Sight. Passing the Admi- ral. The President's Indignation and the Seminario. The Treaty. Mr. Fal- con's extraordinary Letter. False Charges in the President's Message. The French Colony. The Brazilian Squadron. Outrage committed upon the Water Witch. rWhat our Policy with South American States should be .............. 263 CHAPTER XVI. Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo. Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore the southern and western parts of the Province. Extract from Journal of Lieu- tenant Murdaugh. Cotton. Saladas. Sugar. San Roque. Return to Bella Vista. Goya. Rincon de Soto. A Tour in the Governor's Galera. A Bivou- ac. Curuzu Quatia. Return. River Mirinay. Estancia Bonpland. Res- tauracion. Uruguayana. Note from M. Bonpland. Imprisonment of the Nat- uralist. Tobacco. Coffee. Lagoon of Ybera ...................................... 288 CHAPTER XVII. The Dinner at Corrientes. The Address. Toasts and Wine. A Cargo of Lum- ber. The Saladero. The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana. Sudden Return of Lieutenant Jeffers. The Steamer run aground by the Pilot. Fired into from the Fort, killing the Helmsman. False Claims of President Lopez to the Channel. Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of CONTENTS. xiii Paraguay. Affection for the Salto Grande. Dispatch to our Government. Its Contents refuted. Return to Buenos Ayres. Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Rio. Arrival of the Savannah. Indecision of the Commodore. Refusal to grant the Guns. United States Legation versus United States Squadron. What should have been done. Dispatch from Senor Vasquez. The Commodore im- pressed with the Fact of the Parana containing sufficient Depth of Water to ad- mit a Sloop of War Page 301 CHAPTER XVIII. Island of Martin Garcia. Pass of San Juan. Town of Higueritas. The Brasso Bravo. Rio Negro. The Gualaguaychu. Concepcion. Frey Bentos. Fine Pasturage. Herds of Cattle. Arrival at Concepcion. College. Saladeros. Town of Paisandu. An Englishman's Estancia. Current of the River. Palm Forests of Entre Rios. The Arroyo Grande. Paso Heredera. Town of Con- cordia. Trade. Salto. The Salto Grande. Killing a Partridge. Rise of Wa- ter. Tide. Track Survey of the Rio Negro. Town of Soriana. Mercedes. Sarsaparilla. Fossil Remains. Megatherium and Glyptodon. Health of this Region of Country. Cattle and Estancias 318 CHAPTER XIX. Chartering of the little Steamer. Arrival at Santa Fe. Province of Santa Fe. Civil Wars and Independence. Wood. Ascent of the River. Animal Life. Ducks, Jaguars, Capibaras, and Armadillos. The Diver, Podiceps leucopterus. Planting of sweet Potatoes. The Crucito. The Saladito. La Cruz. The Bed of a Lagoon. Monte Aguara. The Return. Current and Width of the River. The Jaguar. Density of the Salado Water. Journey by Land to the upper Wa- ters. A Tatu. Quebracho. The Mirage. The surly Officer. The Tongue of the taciturn Argentine loosened. The Segundo. Tio or Concepcion. Algor- roba and Soil. Arrival at Cordova. List of Distances 332 CHAPTER XX. Cordova. De Garay. Population of the Province. The City of Cordova. Trade. Rail-road surveyed by Mr. Campbell. Madam . Cathedral and Public Buildings. The Colegio Maximo. Paintings. Dr. Hawling's Tannery. The Market. Copper in the Sierras of Cordova. Seiior Zuverir. Mineral Districts. A Journey to Santiago. Appearance of the Horses : their Powers of Endur- ance. Valley of Jesus Maria. Shepherds' Dogs. Divisidero. Posta San Pe- dro. Rosario. Hard Riding. Posta del Monte. Bed of the Rio Dulce. Quichua Language. Perqui. The Harpist. The Tropero. A Dance and no Supper. Cana. Another Tropa. Arrival at Santiago 348 CHAPTER XXI. Santiago. Government House. Trade and Population. No Hotels. Pair of Gloves. Visit to the Governor. Don Taboado. The Boat. Quintas and Fruits. Chills at Santiago. The Pic-nic. The Dulce. Bed of the Salado. The Saladillo. TheFlor del aria. The Ulna. Luxuriant Foliage. The Slevre. Bees. The Toisini. Yafia. Moso Moso. Mestiso Quilaya. Cani. Quella and Alframisqui. The Eyrobana. Wax. The Cochineal. Lassoing a Mule. Price of Mules. Launching the Boat. A Bivouac. Arrival at Salvador. Banks of the Salado. Birds. Estancia Figarra. "Que Animal." Arrival at Matara. The Dance and the little Child. The Priests. Incursions of the Chaco Indians. List of Trees. Quebracho. Algorroba. Vinal. Quilin. Ghana. Mistal. Vinay. Tola. Puna. Gumi. Quimel. Cardon 361 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. Bajada Sause. Women pursued by Indians. Laguna Toma Caphuyan. Estancia Gramilla Bracho. A Night's Sleep interrupted by the Governor's Troop in pur- suit of Indians. Fording the Lagoon. The Scouts on the Trail. Indians in Sight. The White Men defied. A Charge. Another Pursuit. Disappearance in the Forest. Hunger, Thirst, and a sound Sleep in the Rain. The old Es- tancieros. Hostility of the Indians. Navicha. Paso Sandia. Pastures. Monte Aquara. Monte Tigre. Arrival of an additional Force. Musquitoes and Rain. Farther Advance of the Party. On another Trail. Swimming the River. The Volleys. Indians. The would-be Captive. The dying Soldier. The Bullet and a Cigar. Monte del Muerta. The Current running up. The Return .................................................................................... Page 374 CHAPTER XXIII. Crossing at Paso Mistol. A Cordon of Posts. Paso la Torre. A Wild-goat Chase. Navigation of the Salado. Sefiora Mendez. Sleep in the Open Air. Reservoirs of Water. Drought. Arrival at Santiago. A Ball. Toasts. Fine Dancing. River Dulce. Road to Tucuman. Approach the Andes. Woodland. Rio Tala. Mountains. Scenery. Arrival at Tucuman. Hotels in La Plata. Dr. Priestly. Sugar-Plantation. Molasses, Sugar, and Rum Es- tablishment. Cultivation of the Sugar-cane. A Dinner at Senor Zavalier's. Sefiora and her Daughters. A Ride into the Country. Scenery. Dinner and Ball at the Governor's. Beauty of Spanish- American Women. Province of Tucuman. The Capital. Progress. Statistics. Cultivation. Start for Salta. Valleys. Productive Capacity of the Soil. Wheat. Mountain Road. Posta Romero. The foiled Post-master. Alimana. Grassy Basin. Destitute Post- master. Valley Chiguano. Upper Waters of the Salado. Products of Valley Chiguano. River Rosario. Ford the Arrias. Arrive at Salta ............... 394 CHAPTER XXIV. A Night at a Zambo. Messrs. Pelacio. Acts of Courtesy. Province of Salta. Population. Products. Salinas. The Capital. Advantages of Salado Nav- igation. Mules. Leather and Wool. Trees. The Pacaray. Silk Rolls. Wheat. Copper. Governor. Music and Dancing. Exiled Bolivians. Revo- lutionary state of Bolivia. Departure from Salta. Tropas of Asses. Lake Cabo. Simbola. Rivers Pasaje and Las Piedras. Forests. Little Use of Milk in La Plata. Forest of Sevil. Don Martin Giiemes. Breakfast in the Forest. Stage-coach. Ferry-boats. Beauty of Country. Arrival at Tucuman. Horse- back Travel. Gaucho Life. Visit from the Governor. Map of the Province of Tucuman. Farewell to Friends in Tucuman. Day's Ride. Dulce Boat. San- tiago and Reception at the Governor's. Head Waters of the Salado. Laboring Classes in Santiago. Hospitality of Spanish- Americans. Harvest. Narrow Escape. Horses. A Cordova Posta. Fined for fast Riding. Leave Cordova. Return Route across the Pampas. Galera from Rosario. Diligencia. River Tercero. Tropa of Mules from San Juan. River Quarto. Fording the Quarto. Pop-corn Party. Division Line between Cordova and Santa Fe'. Postillion. Growth of Rosario. British Consul. Farther Examinations of La Plata Channels. Preparations for Departure. Letters of Recall. Boatswain's Call. Germantown. Lieutenant Ridgely. Home ...................................... 412 CONSENTS. XV CHAPTER XXV. Extent of Exploration. Depth of Water in the Paraguay. Sources of that River. Junction with the Parana. The Parana River. Tributaries of the Paraguay. The Confuso and Otuquis. Expeditions up and down the Pilcomayo. North- ern and Southern Branch. Little Success at its Navigation. The Vermejo. Its Navigability confirmed. The Salado. "River Bottom." Falls of Apipe'. The Gran Salto. The River above. Islands and Rapids. The Uruguay. The Salto Grande. Beauty of adjacent Country. La Plata. Its Mouth at the Capes. Structure of the Parana Banks. Tosca. Rock Formation on the Par- aguay. Entrance to a Mountain Region. The Great Gulf. Birth of Rivers. Callera de Arriola. Retirement of the Sea. Fossil Remains and Estuary Mud. Diluvial and Alluvial Periods. Encroachments of Land and Water. Harbor of Buenos Ayres. Fertility of Soil. Fruits and Vegetation. Medic- inal Plants and Woods. Climate. Navigation of the Rivers. Letter from the Governor of Santiago. Exclusive Privileges granted to Companies. Suitable Vessels. Paraguay. Products and Advantages for Trade. Interests of Boli- via. Immigration. Brossard. Thiers and Guizot upon the Country of La Plata. What foreign Governments have done. What our Policy should be... Page 431 CHAPTER XXVI. First Discovery of the River La Plata by Solis. Death of Solis. Sebastian Cabot. First Settlement in La Plata. Explorations of Cabot. Indian Hostilities. Highway to El Dorado. Don Diego Garcia. Cabot's Dispatch to the Emperor. Pizarro. Cabot superseded. Don Pedro de Menfloza. His Expedition to La Plata. Founding of Buenos Ayres. Hostility of the Indians. Attack upon Buenos Ayres. Ayolas. His Expedition up the River. Death of Mendoza. Destruction of the Spaniards under Ayolas. Don Dominguez Yrala. Founding of Asuncion. Indian Conspiracy. The Spaniards and the Natives, Don Al- varo Nunez de Vaca. His Journey across the Continent. Administration of De Vaca. He is sent back to Spain. Yrala appointed Adelantado.. Asun- cion erected into a Bishopric. Disasters of the first Adventurers. Successful Administration of Trala. Commanderies. Death of Yrala. Zarate and Garay. Victory over the* Indians. First export Cargo. Death of Garay. Final Con- quest of La Plata. Separation from Paraguay ! 449 CHAPTER XXVII. Arrival of the Jesuits in South America. A pious Fraud. Early Missionaries. St. Francis Solano. Chaco Indians. Fathers Cataldino andMarcerata proceed to Guayra. Foundation of Loreto. St. Ignatius, St. Thomas, and the twelve Missions. Establishment and Destruction of the Uruguay Reductions. Mame - lucos of St. Paul. Persecutions of the Indians. Attack upon Guayra. Retreat of the twelve Thousand to the Salto Grande. Descent of the Falls. Peace at last. Renewal of the Uruguay Reductions. Bickerings between Ecclesiastics and Laymen. Retreat of another twelve thousand. Fathers De Montoya and Tano are dispatched to the Continent : their Missions are crowned with Suc- cess. Fire-arms and papal Briefs. Another Attack of the Mamelucos. Battle of Acaray. Triumph of the Reduction Indians. Don Bernardin de Cardenas. Excommunications. Penitence of the Governor. Deposition of the Bishop. Return to Asuncion. The Dictator. Cardenas is relieved of his assumed Au- thority and retires to La Plata. Defeat of the Mamelucos and Guaycurus. Services of the Reduction Indians..., 465 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. Fathers placed in charge of the Missions : their Duties and Power. Opinions and Researches of Azara. Foundation of St. Joachim and of Belen. Means and Measures adopted. Jesuit Reduction. College. Dispensary, Gardens. The Arsenal and Soldiery. Sham-fights. The Church: its Splendor. Music. Attendance at Church Service. Fetes and Processions. Clothing. Schools. Police System. Daily Life. Labor in the Fields. Christian Republic. Social Equality. Mercantile Restrictions. God's Inheritance .................... Page 493 CHAPTER XXIX. Tarija Missions. Failures. Confided to Franciscan Friars. Spanish Settlement in the Province of Chiquitos. Foundation and Removal of Santa Cruz Missions. First Establishment by Father Arce. Successive Reductions. Native Of- ficials. Jesuit System. Abipones. Concepcion and the Rosary. Dobrizhoffer. Voyage along the Coast of Patagonia. Patagonia Missions. Revolt of In- dians. Cangapol ....... , .................................................................... 506 CHAPTER XXX. I Stability of the Christian Church. Contest for the Governorship of Asuncion. Antequera. Expulsion of the Jesuits. Defeat of Don Balthazar Garcia Rosas. Zavala. Flight jof Antequera, his Arrest and Execution. Appointment of Don John de Barua. Return of the Jesuits. Rebellion in Paraguay. Communeros and Contrabandos. A President. Another Expulsion of the Jesuits. Don Man- uel de Ruiloba, Governor of Asuncion. A Defender. Zavala enters Asuncion. Contest at the Court of Madrid. Triumph of the Jesuits. Their exclusive Policy. Suspicions revived. The Contest renewed. Sebastian Carvalho, Mar- quis of Pombal. The boundary Line. Attempt to assassinate King Joseph. Expulsion of the Order from Portugal and France. Squillaci. Charles III. Aranda. The Jesuits driven from Spain. A Cruise at Sea. Final Landing at Corsica. Letter of the Pope. Bucareli. Viceroy of Buenos Ayres, his Mes- sengers and Dispatches. Plans thwarted. Sudden Arrest of the Fathers. Destruction of the Cordova Library. Memorial of the Indians in behalf of the Order. Alarms of the Viceroy. Expedition against the Parana and Uruguay Reductions. The Fathers shipped for Europe. Fate of the Missions ......... 526 CHAPTER XXXI. False Policy of Spain toward the Colonies. Treaty of Utrecht. Foundation of Montevideo. Contrabandists. Treaty of 1750. Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. Treaty of St. Ildefonso. Final Concessions of the Mother Country. Expedi- tion nnder Sir Home Popham. Capture of Buenos Ayres. Assault of Monte- video. Defeat of General Whitelock. Liniers. Joseph Bonaparte. A Portu- guese Pretender. Cisneros. Assembly of July 9th, 1816. Independence of Paraguay, Bolivia, and Buenos Ayres. Disadvantages the South American People labored under for forming a good Government. The Banda Oriental. Urquiza, Oribe. Battle of Monte Caseros. Convention at St. Nicolas. Courtesy extended to our Minister. Disaffection of Buenos Ayres. Siege of that City.. ...................................................................................... 552 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PACK Map of the Basin of La Plata at the end of the volume. The Steamer Water Witch Frontispiece. Montevideo, from the Fort on the Mountain 33 Portrait of President Urquiza 41 Marking Cattle 54 San Jose', the Estancia of Urquiza 56 The Galera 58 College of Concepcion 60 Corrientes Upper End 102 Corrientes Lower End 102 Use of the Lasso and Bolas 112 Portrait of President Lopez 117 Asuncion First View 121 Asuncion Second View 121 The Cabildo, Asuncion 123 The Cathedral, Asuncion 124 Curing Yerba 137 Meeting Indians on the Chaco 149 Termination of Spur of Ytapucu Gazo 153 Pan de Azucar 163 Fort Bourbon, or Olimpo 168 Fort Coimbra 178 Saddle-shaped Mountain 185 Corumba 187 Plaza of Albuquerque 189 Lengua Indians at Salvador 197 Portrait of Francia, the Dictator 202 Costumes of the Interior 209 Dinner at the Puerta del Estado....: 214 Crossing the Taquari 219 J^ate and Bombilla 227 Supper at San Martin 230 Steamer Pilcomayo and Paraguay Guardia 246 Indians fishing in the Vermejo 252 Passing the Guardia Tres Bocas 278 Attack upon the Water Witch 306 Chart of the Mouth of the Parana 309 Shooting a Jaguar 341 Tropa of Carretas encamped 357 Pursuit of the Indians 379 Attack at the Paso Mistol 390 AGaucho 396 AnEstanciero 420 Sierra Siete Punto 438 Portrait of Ignatius Loyola.. 465 Diagrams of Observations 605-6 2 INTRODUCTION. THEEE are circumstances connected with the origin and organ- ization of the " La Plata Expedition" which may be interesting to the reader, as an Introduction to the Narrative of the Expe- dition. In the year 1851 I returned from a cruise on the East India Station, having spent the greater portion of three years in the Chinese waters. While in the neighborhood of Canton I often enjoyed the society and conversation of my friend, Mr. E. B. FORBES, at that time the head of the house of Eussell and Com- pany, whose experience in the navigation of the Chinese seas had made him aware of the great defects of our best charts of those waters. One day, while seated in his veranda at Macao, indulg- ing in a Manilla cheroot, and admiring the scenery around the harbor, he remarked that, considering the importance and value of our trade with China, we needed more accurate surveys to point out the dangers that beset the navigator at every league in those waters. I was impressed by the suggestion, and replied that I would gladly undertake the work, under the orders of government. It was agreed that, upon our return home, we should make a joint effort to induce the government to carry our views into effect. The importance of the subject was perceived by Congress and the Navy Department ; and when it became evident that the project was to be carried out, I was informed by Mr. GRAHAM, then Sec- retary of the Navy, that I was to be intrusted with the execution of the survey. I thereupon, after consultation with Mr. FORBES, presented to Congress a statement as to the number and kind of vessels re- quired, and the amount needed for their construction. A pro- peller and two schooners were recommended, and the appropria- tion was made, in accordance with my estimates. A change took place in the Navy Department. Mr. GRAHAM resigned, and Mr. KENNEDY was appointed Secretary of the Navy. XX INTRODUCTION. Meanwhile the " China Sea and Behring's Strait Survey"* was expanded from its original unpretending design into an expedi- tion upon a large scale for the investigation of every branch of natural science, involving the employment of a squadron of five vessels, with a sloop of war as "flag-ship," and a corps of scientific persons. My position on the ISTaval Kegister was that of lieutenant. This was urged as a bar against my appointment to this impor- tant command, which was accordingly assigned to one of higher rank a commander. I was somewhat annoyed that my bantling had grown entirely beyond my control, and asked to be excused from occupying the position of second in command, which was tendered to me by the Secretary. In doing this, I made known my agency in originating and prosecuting the measure. A few days after, I was offered the command of an expedition for the exploration and survey of the Bio de la Plata and its tributaries. The same day's mail brought me another offer of service, made through the influence of friends, and highly flatter- ing to me personally and professionally. I accepted the former. Congress made no special appropriation for this work. To Mr. FILLMOEE, then President, and to Mr. KENNEDY, the Secretary of the Navy, belongs the credit of assigning this particular duty to the "Water Witch, as one of the vessels of the squadron on the coast of Brazil. She was officered, manned, and equipped in the usual manner of vessels of her class, with the exception that her armament was changed to three bronze howitzers. She was also furnished with a few astronomical instruments, and a small pro- vision of materials for the collection and preservation of speci- mens in Natural History. The explorations, a narrative of which is contained in the fol- lowing pages, embraced an extent of about three thousand six hundred miles by water, and of four thousand four hundred miles by land through Paraguay and the Argentine Confederation. In connection with the other duties assigned to me by my instruc- tions, I was intrusted with diplomatic powers to negotiate a treaty of friendship and commerce with the government of Paraguay. Although no naturalist accompanied the expedition, the letters * The Behring's Strait clause was an addition suggested by the intelligent Su- perintendent of the National Observatory, whose investigations into the various whaling regions of the globe had led him to see the defects of our charts of that region. INTRODUCTION. and reports of scientific men, to whose inspection some of the col- lections have been submitted, will show to what extent my in- structions in this respect have been carried out. When I presented to the Secretary of the Navy my "Keport of the Exploration and Survey of the Eiver La Plata and its Trib- utaries," I anticipated making one more full and copious at a sub- sequent period. The Secretary, however, expressed himself sati- sfied with that document ; but I was not. I found that a desire had been awakened for a knowledge of that country which could not be comprised within the limits of a preliminary report. This having been published in some of the leading journals of this country and of Europe, I received many letters asking "for more detailed information respecting that section of South America." But for these inquiries, I believe I should have shrunk from the task of preparing a work for publication during my only hours of leisure after discharging the duties of " an office for the construc- tion of charts of the La Plata Expedition," and amid other inter- ruptions of an official character. But my journals contained am- ple materials for a book, and it seemed more easy to arrange this material into a narrative of the expedition, than to answer the nu- merous letters which continued to pour in upon me. Accompa- nying the narrative are a few chapters giving an outline sketch of the history of La Plata, and an account of the Jesuit missions in the country. In presenting this volume to the public, I can claim for it no special consideration on the ground of artistic arrangement or lit- erary merit. For its favorable reception I rely mainly upon the importance of the matters of which it treats. To the Smithsonian Institute I am indebted for aid in provid- ing the means necessary for the collection and preservation of specimens in Natural History, and for valuable information as to their application. Also to M. F. MAURY, IT. S. N., Superintend- ent of the Naval Observatory, for the selection of instruments, and for valuable suggestions in the prosecution of several important portions of our work. Special thanks are also due to Mr. G-EORGE W. BLUNT, of New York, and Mr. K. B. FORBES, of Boston, men who are always prompt in the advocacy and support of all meas- ures having for their object the extension of the bounds of science and of commerce ; to the officers attached to the expedition, who labored with intelligence and energy until its results were embod- ied in well-executed charts ; and to Lieutenant H. N. HARRISON, xxii INTRODUCTION. who, in connection with other office duties, reduced the meteoro- logical observations presented in the Appendix. The American Geographical and Statistical Society took an early interest in the exploration of the Kiver La Plata. At a meeting held May llth, 1852, a memorial upon this subject, prepared by S. DE WITT BLOODGOOD, Esq., was adopted, and ordered to be transmitted to the Secretary of the Navy. This will be found in the Appendix.* Fully impressed with the importance, commercially as well as scientifically, of extending the examination, already so successful- ly carried on, into the principal tributaries of the central waters of La Plata, which neither time nor events permitted during the late exploration, I set to work, after my return home, immediately on the meeting of Congress, and, through the interest taken in the matter by the able Senator from Louisiana, Mr. BENJAMIN, pro- cured the passage of an act appropriating a small sum for the far- ther prosecution of my late work. Under a contract with the . Navy Department, a suitable iron steamer was built by Mr. K. B. FOKBES of Boston, and chartered to the government. Although of small dimensions length. 98 feet, beam 16, and draught 4 she was taken out to Monte Video under sail, rigged as a " three-mast- ed schooner," and arrived safely early in the month of March of the present year (1858), after a passage of about 70 days. The officers associated with me in this expedition sailed in February, and arrived out in time to receive the little steamer, which I have named Argentina. My duties in connection with the construction of the charts of the previous expedition claimed my attention at this time, and, before their completion, my services having been required by the Navy Department in the organization of the force designed to op- erate against Paraguay in the demand for redress against that gov- ernment, I was detained by order of the Secretary for this duty. The position assigned me under the gallant senior officer of the navy, WM. B. SHTJBEICK, flag-officer as Captain of the Fleet of the Brazil Squadron and Paraguay Expedition, will enable me to apply my best energies to the accomplishment of the great ob- jects in view ; and when these shall have been obtained, I look with sanguine hope to the final completion of that not less impor- tant work, the continuation of the exploration of the tributaries of La Plata. Washington, October. 1858. * See Appendix I. LA PLATA, THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION, AND PARAGUAY. LA PLATA. CHAPTER I. Urquiza's Decree, opening the Waters of La Plata. The Expedition. Its Ob- jects. The Water Witch. Her Sea Qualities. The Voyage. Arrival at Kio de Janeiro. Correspondence with the Government. Permission granted to as- cend to Albuquerque. Further Extension of this Privilege. Pamperos. The Morgan Wheel. French Charts. Arrival at Montevideo. Quarantine. Yel- low Fever. Montevideo. Its Trade and Population. Colonel Paunero. THE historical chapters appended to this narrative will present a detailed account of the political affairs of the countries adjacent to the River La Plata. At present it is only necessary to premise that in the movement against Oribe, Urquiza and the Emperor of Brazil had in view one great object the opening of the river communications of La Plata to commerce. After the defeat and flight of Rosas, and the election of Urquiza as Provisional Direct- or of the Argentine Confederation, one of the first measures of his administration was a decree, issued August 28th, 1852, declaring the navigation of the rivers of the Confederation free to all flags, the decree to take effect the 1st of October of the same year. The seal of many navigable waters, offering communication with the Atlantic to a region of country embracing not less than 800,000 square miles, was thus broken. A vast territory was not only opened to commerce, but the most liberal inducements were given to immigration. Results, even at this early period, attest the sa- gacity of Urquiza, and foreshadow the prosperity to which that portion of South America will attain under his enlightened ad- ministration. The government of the United States was the first to avail it- self of the opportunity thus offered to all maritime nations to ob- tain a more extended knowledge of La Plata. An expedition charged to explore .its rivers, and to report upon the extent of their navigability and adaptation to commerce, was placed under my command in February, 1853. v, V 26 THE WATER WITCH. These were its first objects ; but my instructions covered a much wider field. I was ordered to penetrate into the interior of the countries of La Plata, to examine their agricultural resources, and to make such collections in Natural History as the means at my disposal would permit.* In addition to this service, I was honored by the President, Mr. Fillmore, with a commission to negotiate individually, or jointly with Messrs. Schenck and Pen- dleton, our ministers to Brazil and the Argentine Confederation, a treaty of commerce and navigation with the Eepublic of Para- guay : an honor I highly appreciated, for it was entirely unsolic- ited. The "Water Witch, a steamer of four hundred tons and nine feet draught, was placed under my command to carry out these instructions. She was not altogether adapted to the work of the expedition, but was better suited to it than any other vessel then at the disposal of the Navy Department. She was, in some meas- ure, an experiment ship, to test the adaptation of the " Morgan wheel" to steamers, an experiment which caused delay and em- barrassment throughout the prosecution of the work. The oper- ations of the expedition were circumscribed by graver obstacles, to which I shall allude in the course of my narrative. It never- theless embraced a river and land exploration of a little more than nine thousand miles in a country almost unknown, and established the navigability of waters of which the natives themselves were ignorant. Owing to the peculiar construction of the wheels of the Water Witch, we found it impracticable, even with the most favorable wind, to dispense with steam ; consequently, our course was so shaped as to render accessible, at short intervals, those ports known to be depositories of coal. We touched at the island of St. Thomas, at Demarara, English Guiana, Cayenne, French Guia- na, Maranham, Pernambuco, and Eio de Janeiro. At Maranham it became necessary to raise the shaft "into line," it having sunk to such a degree as to affect the movements of the engine very sensibly. The weight of the wheels, twenty- four tons, added to that of the shaft, rendered this a somewhat dif- ficult operation with the limited means to be found on board a vessel of the size of the Water Witch. Necessity seldom fails to quicken one's ingenuity, and, fortunately, we discovered a way of repairing the defect. * See Appendix A. DIPLOMATIC COREESPONDENCE. 27 A large lighter an open, flat-bottomed boat of the capacity of twenty-five tons was secured abreast of one of the wheels, and filled with water. Two pieces of hard, strong timber, laid trans- versely across the lighter,, passing under the centres and be- tween the arms of the wheel, and resting on the "outboard sheer plank" of the steamer, were there lashed. They were secured in the same manner to the centres and arms, and the intermediate spaces filled in with hard wood, thus forming a solid mass of tim- ber. The water was then pumped out of the lighter, which, nat- urally rising from its almost submerged state, raised the wheel and shaft sufficiently to admit the insertion beneath the "outer pillar block" of a plate of sheet iron, by which it was brought in place. The same means were used in raising the opposite end of the shaft. Having remedied this derangement, and received on board a supply of coal, we sailed for Eio Janeiro, touching at Pernambuco on our way. For a successful and complete exploration of the Paraguay and Parana Eivers, it was necessary to obtain from the Emperor of Brazil permission to enter that part of his empire bordering on these waters. In the absence of our minister, Mr. Schenck, I ad- dressed a note to Mr. Ferdinand Coxe, Secretary of Legation, re- questing him to present the subject to the Emperor, and solicit his favorable consideration of the work, so far, at least, as to insure to it the exploration of those tributaries of the Eiver La Plata over which the imperial government exercised exclusive jurisdiction. The following correspondence between our minister, his secretary of legation, and the minister of foreign affairs, will show the grounds upon which this request was made, and those which in- fluenced the Brazilian government in declining to accede to it. " United States Steamer Water Witch, ) Rio de Janeiro, April 26th, 1853. ) " SIR, The expedition on which the Water Witch has been ordered by the President of the United States, having purely for its object the ad- vancement of commerce and promotion of science objects interesting to all civilized nations, but more especially to those on whose borders or in whose territories its operations may extend, I wish, through the legation of the United States, to call the attention of the Brazilian government to this ex- pedition, with the hope that, through its enlightened policy, it may be dis- posed to forward the work with which I am intrusted, whensoever its opera- tions may border upon or extend into the territory of Brazil. 28 DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENCE. " Facilities might be afforded and difficulties removed by the simple act of approval and commendation on the part of Brazil, of which her frontier and inland posts could be notified in advance of the expedition. " You are too well aware of the good likely to result from the work we have in hand to require any argument from me. I therefore leave the mat- ter in your keeping, with the hope that your efforts to advance the ami and object I have in view may succeed to our entire satisfaction. "THOMAS J. PAGE, Lieutenant Commanding. "Mr. FERDINAND COPE, Secretary of Legation." "Legation of the United States, > Rio de Janeiro, April 26th, 1853.) " SIR, In the absence of Mr. Schenck, I have the honor to inclose to your excellency a copy of a letter just received from Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, commanding the United States Steamer Water Witch now in this port. This officer has been ordered by the President of the United States upon the highly interesting and important duty of exploring and surveying all the rivers running into the Kiver La Plata, and it is not doubted that the re- sults of the expedition will be of the highest importance to the commercial and scientific world, and that Brazil, as bordering upon, and at some points entirely inclosing the rivers it is "proposed to ascend, will not be the nation least benefited by the operations of the expedition. " Your excellency will perceive, from Lieutenant Page's letter, that he asks from the imperial government such assistance in the object he has in view as may be given by orders of friendly co-operation to the imperial of- ficers and agents he may meet when his operations may border upon or ex- tend into the territory pf Brazil. " Your excellency knows too well what these orders should be, and to whom they should be given, for me to do more than communicate Lieuten- ant Page's request, as I am confident that the enlightened views of your excellency will lead you to further the aim and object of the expedition by all the means in your excellency's power. " The Water Witch will leave here for Montevideo and Buenos Ayres on the 30th instant, and I will have much pleasure in forwarding any com- munication which your excellency may desire to send to those points ; and I avail myself of the occasion to renew to your excellency the assurance of my high respect and distinguished consideration. "FERDINAND COXE, Secretary of Legation. "To H. E. PAULINO JOSE SCARES DE SOUZA, of the Council of H. M. the Emperor, Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. [TRANSLATION.] "Foreign Office, Rio de Janeiro, May 4th, 1853. " I received, after some delay, the note which, in the absence of Mr. Schenck, was addressed me by Mr. Ferdinand Coxe, Secretary of Legation, BRAZILIAN POLICY. 29 under date of the 26th of April last, inclosing a copy of a letter he had re- ceived from Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, who, having been charged with the duty of exploring the different rivers, affluents to ' La Plata,' asked from the imperial government all the assistance in its power, by means of orders and recommendations for a friendly co-operation on the part of the respect- ive authorities of the empire. In reply, I have to say to Mr. Coxe that the imperial government, having opened to foreign commerce, in the River Para- guay, the port of Albuquerque, it makes no objection to Lieutenant Page carrying his explorations to that point, and will send the necessary orders to the President of Matto Grosso, and other imperial agents, that they may give to Lieutenant Page all co-operation in their power ; but the imperial government, not having yet opened to foreign nations other ports above Al- buquerque, and not having yet agreed as to the navigation of these interior rivers with the nations on their banks \_nacoes riberinhas], it can not per- mit foreign vessels to enter them, and thus establish an example and prec- edent which might be prejudicial to the empire, as the right to the navi- gation of these rivers has not been settled. " I avail myself of this occasion to offer to Mr. Coxe the assurance of my esteem and consideration. "PAULINO JOSE SOAEES DE SOUZA. "Mr. FERDINAND COXE, Secretary of Legation." It will be observed that this refusal was not absolute, but that permission was given for the Water "Witch to ascend the Para- guay as high as Albuquerque, a town some distance within the territorial limit claimed by Brazil. On our arrival at Coimbra, the first imperial military post on the Paraguay, I was informed that the privilege of ascending the river had been extended to Corumba, a small post about sixty miles above Albuquerque. Permission was, however, subsequently granted to extend the work throughout the Paraguay, and to any of its tributaries with- in the empire. It is a source of deep regret that this was received when circumstances beyond my control rendered it entirely im- possible for me to act upon it. An arbitrary decree of the Presi- dent of Paraguay forced me to abandon the exploration of the higher waters of the Parana and Paraguay, with their western and eastern tributaries, at the moment that our labors had reached the most interesting point. The events which led to this decree will be given in another chapter of this work. The able advocacy of our minister to Brazil, Mr. Schenck, followed by that of Mr. Trousdale, doubtless brought about this change in the policy of the imperial government* I was unwill- * See Appendix B. 30 A PAMPERO. ing to believe that it was the fixed determination of Brazil to keep closed water-courses whose navigability, once established, would bring into easy communication with the Atlantic some of the richest of her northwestern provinces. I had confidence, too, in the reputation for learning and appreciation of science which dis- tinguished his imperial majesty, and therefore sought the earliest opportunity, by correspondence with our minister at Kio de Janei- ro, to bring the subject before him again. An appropriate occasion seemed to offer itself in the change of our representation at that court. Mr. Trousdale, who succeeded Mr. Schenck, renewed the application, urging the same arguments that had be#n set forth by his predecessor. The request was granted ; and although, as I have stated, I was unable to avail myself of it, the concession proves the enlightened views of the emperor for the promotion of science. We remained in the harbor of Eio long enough to receive on board such quantities of coal and provisions as the capacity of our steamer would allow. It was important to enter the Parana with as full a supply as possible ; and with the hope of slipping into "La Plata" in the interval of those prevailing gales called "pam- peros," which blow at times with great violence,! had burdened the little craft somewhat beyond the draught designed in her con- struction. This brought her rail nearer the water's edge than would be desirable, should she have to contend with a "pampero." As we approached the latitude of those winds, her qualities as a "sea-boat" were fully tested; for she encountered one of these gales, as if it had been intended that she should prove false the various knowing predictions made previously to her sailing from the United States, that she would "never reach her desti- nation." These winds, coming from the Andes, sweep over the pampas unobstructed, and break upon the coasts with the terrific force of hurricanes. The waves broke over the Water Witch like a cataract, first over the bows, then over the stern, the water finding an outlet through the ports ; she, notwithstanding, struggled through them with an even movement of the engine, which made evident the superi- ority of the Morgan "action" over that of the common "radial wheel" for sea-steamers. Although at times nearly submerged to its centre, the vertical entry of its buckets into the water enabled it to move with uniformity, and without derangement or strain to THE MORGAN WHEEL. 31 the machinery. The principle is undoubtedly a good one ; and, with some few changes in its application (as made to the Water Witch) which experience pointed out as important, it could be made much more effective. The question may. nevertheless be asked, Are not the advant- ages of the vertical over the diagonal action counterbalanced by the liability of the former to derangement in the constant abra- sion of the bushings and casings peculiar to its eccentric arrange- ment ? As it was an experiment in our service, we were not pro- vided with the means of immediate remedy for every case, which caused, as I have before stated, delay and embarrassment. Expe- rience proved that the abrasion was tenfold greater in rivers than in the ocean, caused doubtless by the earthy matter afloat in fresh water. With a change of the eccentric from the guard (the posi- tion of it on board the Water Witch) to the shaft,* where any ir- regular movement in the latter would be common to both, and a substitution of steel for the composition bushings, f the disadvant- ages we experienced would be much diminished. It should nev- er, I think, be applied to steamers designed for river navigation unless wooden bushings be used. But its advantages at sea and in stormy weather were fully demonstrated in this pampero, where the movements of the engine, though slow, were as uniform as they would have been in a placid river. Eunning along the southern coast of Brazil near enough to shore to render objects on land well denned, we had an opportu- nity of testing the accuracy of our charts. Some proved to be greatly in error. I have seen no English surveys of this coast, but I must avail myself of this opportunity to express my high appreciation of the French charts over all others that have come under my observation. I can not give a better evidence of my confidence in them than to state that, though no one on board the Water Witch had ever before entered the estuary of St. Catharine, yet, guided solely by one of them, we ran in through the southern entrance and anchored, on a very dark night. We had "made the headlands" before the closing in of day, and while " standing into" the harbor, the roar of the breakers on either side warned us of the * Since writing the above, Mr. Brown exhibited to me, December 15, 1857, in Washington, a patented invention of his, made in 1853, with the eccentric applied to the shaft inside of the wheel. t It has been satisfactorily determined that wooden bushings of lignum-vitae, locust, or any such woods, are preferable to either brass or steel. 32 MONTEVIDEO. narrowness of the pass. On the following day we passed up the estuary, the harbor chart being our only pilot through the wind- ings of the channel, the depth of which in many parts was only from one to two feet greater than the draught of the steamer. A few days after the gale which tested so fully the powers of our little craft, we bade adieu for a time to old ocean, and, under the cheering /influence of a bright morning sun, passed Santa Maria, the northern cape of the mouth of "La Plata.'" Our feel- ings may be imagined on entering this vast reservoir of great rivers and a multitude of smaller waters, which coursed through lands so invested with the interest of the unknown that, in con- templating them as the scene of our labors for some years to come, we felt all the enthusiasm of explorers, hoping to add largely to geographical knowledge. The Eiver " La Plata" should be called an estuary, being 170 miles wide at its mouth, and 180 in length. We continued our course, and toward midnight, guided by the revolving light of the " Mount" (from which the city derives its name) and the lights of the town, we reached the anchorage safe- ly. Bounding close under the stern of a large ship, though it was very dark, I became satisfied of her identity, reported the ar- rival of the steamer "Water Witch, and asked, " Is that the frigate Congress?" The reply from the officer of the deck was in the affirmative. We exchanged the usual compliments, and soon the little craft was at anchor " alongside the flag-ship" of one of the most gallant officers of the navy, the late Commodore Isaac M'Keever. We had sailed from an infected district (Eio Janeiro), where the yellow fever was raging, and had escaped without a single case ; but there is no appeal from the laws of quarantine, and, notwith- standing the perfect health of officers and crew, we were subject- ed to the usual imprisonment. Few so well as sailors know the pleasure and eagerness with which ships from " home" are greeted by those on foreign stations ; but we could not communicate with our friends on board the " frigate" without subjecting them to the detention which awaited us ; therefore, after the lapse of a few hours, we entered the harbor, and anchored in that quarter as- signed to vessels in quarantine. Until within a few years, the health of Eio de Janeiro, next to the security and magnificence of its harbor, had formed its greatest attraction to vessels trading or cruising on the Bra- zilian coast; but in 1849 the yellow fever was brought to this MONTEVIDEO. 83 I beautiful region from the coast of Africa, and it has increased vastly the mortal- ity. It is said,however, now to be on the decrease. Per- haps I am hasty in adopting the most generally received opinion of its origin by ships from the African coast, for medical men are by no means agreed on this point, some attributing it to lo- cal influences, there having been, during the prevalence of this fever, not only a ces- sation of storms, great stag- nation in the atmosphere, and other meteorological changes, but, of late years, an increased malignancy in the types of fever preva- lent. Again, it is worthy of note, that from Rio it has extended in a northerly di- * rection, visiting all the cit- ies of the coast of Brazil. "La Plata," so far, has been exempt. Montevideo and Buenos Ayres, with a pop- ulation, the former of one hundred and twenty, the lat- ter of forty thousand souls, have never been troubled by this scourge.* Montevideo, the chief town and capital of Uru- guay, is the first consider- * The above had scarcely been written when the intelligence ar- rived that the fever had reached Montevideo in the spring of 1857. 34 MONTEVIDEO. able port on "La Plata," on entering from sea, though a portion of the trade is shared by Maldonado, about 70 miles east of it, and on the same side of the river. It is situated on a peninsula, rising gradually to a level, with a gently rolling country, which extends to the " sierras" on the confines of Brazil. The extrem- ity of this peninsula forms the southern point to the entrance of the harbor. On the opposite side stands " the Mount," rising from the water's edge to a height of about 490 feet, and crowned by a small fortress, now in ruins, in the centre of which is the revolv- ing light to which I have alluded. The harbor, although not very spacious, is protected from all winds save those from the south- west, the quarter whence come the "pamperos." Although they burst over " La Plata" at this point with great violence, grave marine disasters seldom occur, for the u holding-ground" is good, and the " under tow" enables vessels to resist the force of the wind and ride easily at their anchors. From the mouth of the harbor to the inner anchorage, the depth varies from 12 to 18 feet. Notwithstanding the depressed state of trade, in consequence of the nine years' siege of Oribe, its occupation by foreign troops, and the destruction of the cattle one great source of wealth to the province Montevideo has increased in population, and in its domestic architecture there has been great improvement. For- merly the buildings were uniformly of one story, with " azoteas ;" now they are of two and three, and finished in the handsomest modern style. The usual materials for building are brick and stone. The latter is generally covered with stucco, which the equable climate preserves in perfection. The. city has extended far beyond its original limits denned by the old wall and ditch ; and when civil and foreign wars shall cease to distract this coun- try, I can well imagine that it will offer many attractions as a res- idence, both socially and commercially. Before sailing from Montevideo I called on Colonel "Wincheslao Paunero, an officer of the War Department, and brother-in-law of the late President Bolivian of Bolivia, and obtained from him the loan of a very handsomely executed map of that state, from which I took a tracing, as it seemed to be authentic, and of more recent date than any I had seen. This map was executed under the ad- ministration of General Bolivian. Colonel Paunero remarked that he would take much pleasure in presenting it to me for the ben- efit of the expedition ; but as it was left to him as a legacy by his AEEIVAL AT BUENOS AYRES. 35 deceased friend and relative, he must forego the gratification of doing so. He seemed greatly interested in our work, and sent me a letter of introduction to the Bolivian charge at Buenos Ayres, Senor Don Juan de la Cruz Bennavento, whom I found enthusi- astic on the subject of our expedition, hoping that it might be the means of establishing the practicability of some outlet for the products of his isolated country through the waters of "La Plata." CHAPTER II. Arrival at Buenos Ayres. Its Site. Winds. Higueritas. Trade. Buildings. Fruits and Flowers. Landing at Buenos Ayres. Besiegers and Besieged. Our Ministers. Treaty with President Lopez. Urquiza's Army. Visit at Head- quarters. Personal Appearance of the General. He interests himself in the Expedition. Detention at Buenos Ayres. Letter from Mr. Pendleton. Treach- ery in the Squadron. Joint Treaty of Navigation. Martin Garcia Channel. New Channel discovered. Letter from Messrs. Schenck and Pendleton. Break- ing lip of the Siege. Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch. Pa- lermo, the former Eesidence of Rosas. The Dictator and his Daughter Manu- elita. Urquiza's Dog. The Director's Demeanor. The Voyage. Ladies on board. Temperance of Urquiza. He leaves the Water Witch. Return to Buenos Ayres. Tribute to British Officers. ON the afternoon of the 24th of May we sailed from Monte- video, and arrived the following morning at Buenos Ayres. We had gained time, and, from the width of the river, and the unat- tractive character of its shores, had lost nothing by passing this distance one hundred miles in the night. Admirable surveys of this part of " La Plata" have been made by the English, and the navigation between the two cities is attended with no difficulties, provided due attention be paid to the tides and the lead. Vessels of eighteen feet draught may with safety reach the outer roads of Buenos Ayres the anchorage of all men-of-war, and merchant- men drawing more than twelve feet. However, the distance of this anchorage from the city (four miles) renders the labor and expense of discharging cargo very great. Sometimes a detention of months at 'a time is caused by wind and weather. The trade of Buenos Ayres should be confined to vessels not exceeding a draught of twelve feet, for such could enter the inner roads at ordinary high water, and no danger need be apprehend- ed even should they take the bottom. The southeast winds, 36 SITE OF BUENOS AYEES. which alone produce a sea at all to be apprehended, cause a rise of the water which increases its depth some six or eight feet; and the north wind, which diminishes the depth, will not produce a sea sufficient to cause a vessel to thump, although she may be resting on the bottom. The explorations of the first settlers of La Plata were to the west, seeking the auriferous lands which the Indians described as in that direction, or to open a communication with the conquests of Pizarro and Almagro. The hope of ultimately effecting this great object undoubtedly influenced Mendoza, and subsequently De Garay, in selecting the site of Buenos Ayres. They were cer- tainly not wholly influenced by considerations of its advantageous position as the great commercial city of the country, for a more thorough examination would have revealed to them a point on the Uruguay, about fifty miles distant, in every way adapted to the wants of an extended commerce ; a port (Higueritas) at which vessels could ride safely at anchor, discharge and receive cargo at all times. We must, however, remember that in their wild- est dreams of the future, even to the close of the eighteenth* cen- tury, the colonists of La Plata could not have foreseen the trade of the world as it is now carried on, in ships and steamers of ten and twenty times greater tonnage than the small craft in which the Spanish mariners so boldly launched forth in unknown seas. To reach Higueritas, vessels must first pass the bar of San Juan, over which there will not be found more than fifteen feet water, unless when the southeast winds are blowing. Notwithstanding the unfavorable position of Buenos Ayres as a commercial town which, to some extent, would have been rem- edied by a more enterprising people as the port of entry for the exports and imports of the whole Argentine Confederation, it has steadily progressed in population and commerce. Its importing and exporting trade is chiefly in the hands of foreigners, English, Americans, and French ; and though the civil wars which have distracted the provinces since their independence have dimin- ished the number of horned cattle, and the frequent blockades to which it has been subjected have equally interrupted all foreign importations, the resources of the interior provinces are so ex- haustless, the foreign population of the city so large, that it seems only destined to encounter these disasters to recover from them with renewed energy. The rearing of sheep has vastly increased THE CITY. LANDING. 37 the trade in wool, and the cultivation of wheat now falls little short of the home demand. A minute description of Buenos Ayres would be a twice-told tale, but it is rapidly passing through changes which will in a few years make it one of the finest cities of the continent. In extending it, successive generations have followed the plan prescribed by the laws of the Indies to all the first cities of Span- ish America, and the Buenos Ayres of 1857 is only the city of De Garay embellished and extended; its rectangular streets com- mand in every direction long vistas, and now embrace within their limits dwellings possessing all the elegancies and comforts that Europeans and Americans have made essentials in domestic architecture. Few or no structures of great architectural merit strike the eye, unless we may except the churches and convents ; the former, built principally by the Jesuits, though massive, add nothing by exterior decoration to the beauty of the city. The streets are well paved with granite, and the environs are pleasantly dotted with the quintas (country-houses) of the native and foreign merchants. The Portenos are extravagantly fond of flowers, and at these coun- try residences indulge their taste by cultivating in perfection the gorgeous flora of tropical and temperate regions. We also find many of the fruits and vegetables known to our horticulture, such as peaches, melons, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., grown with great success. The apples and pears of Montevideo are superior to those of Buenos Ayres, which must arise more from difference of soil than climatic influence, the regions in which these fruits are cultivated being very much in the same latitude ; but the Banda Oriental is more rolling in its surface, and thus, having a drier soil, is of course better adapted to such cultivation. The visitor of former years, who made his first appearance be- fore the gay crowds of the Playa in a wagon of rough boards open at each end, driven by a half-naked native belaboring the poor beasts attached to the pole by a ring, which enabled him to liter- ally put the " cart before the horse," can now reach the new mole in a boat, and ascend by flights of steps. The old mode of landing arose from the formation of the shore in front of the city, a flat tufa bottom, which extends far out, and renders it at low water even impossible for boats to approach within a quarter of a mile of the Playa. Before the mole was constructed hundreds of carts might have been seen waiting out 38 NEGOTIATIONS OPENED. in the waters of La Plata to convey passengers and freight on shore, and the shouts indeed yells of the drivers, the plunging of the beasts up to their bellies in the water as each boat would approach, made a din and confusion to which the noisy rivalry of hackmen at our railway stations or wharves would be com- parative quiet. On entering the "outer roads" our attention was drawn to the blockading squadron, under the " Argentine" flag, com- posed of three steamers, a brig, a three-masted schooner, and several smaller vessels, co-operating with the besieging army of Urquiza. As our steamer had only a draught of nine feet, we passed on, and rounding the northern end of the shoal which separates the "outer" from the "inner" roads, entered the latter, where lay the squadron of the " inside" party. This was inferior to that of the " outside" party, and found its protection more in the presence of foreign men-of-war and merchantmen than from the water-bat- tery which guarded the inner anchorage. A marked considera- tion for the lives and property of foreigners characterized the course of Urquiza throughout this siege. His great object seem- ed to be to reduce the city by cutting off supplies, and thus avoid the fearful loss of life and destruction of property which a bom- bardment or assault would have caused. Arrived at Buenos Ayres, I felt that we had reached the initial point of our work. My first duty was to visit Mr. Pendleton, of Virginia, the representative of our government near the Argen- tine Confederation, and the public authorities of the place. In co-operation with Mr. Schenck, of Ohio, our minister to Brazil (who had visited Buenos Ayres for the purpose), Mr. Pendleton was engaged in negotiating a treaty with the "Provisional Di- rector." I informed them of my letters of credence to the Presi- dent of Paraguay, and my joint commission from the President of the United States, wherein Mr. Pendleton, Mr. Schenck, and myself were authorized and empowered to conclude a " treaty of commerce" with that republic. My letters of instructions invested me with full powers to act individually, should it not be proper or convenient for these gen- tlemen to absent themselves from Buenos Ayres, the scene, as we have shown, of important events at this time. Mr. Pendleton in- formed me that, having been invited by Sir Charles Hotham, the British minister at Buenos Ayres, to accompany him to Para- VISIT TO SAN JOSE. 39 guay, he had accepted the invitation, and availed himself of the opportunity, at the same tune, with the ministers of England, France, and Sardinia, to negotiate and sign a treaty of navigation and commerce with President Lopez. I was naturally anxious to see the distinguished author of a decree which had opened, for the first time, the valuable re- sources of so fruitful a region to the commerce of the world. Ke- garded only as a political move, it gave evidence of forecast and sagacity far in advance of the age of " his people ;" added to this, it was a very essential point to obtain his good- will and favorable consideration for the objects of the expedition, so that no impedi- ments should embarrass its progress while operating within the territory of the Argentine Confederation. I expressed this wish to Mr. Pendleton, who immediately offer- ed to call with me at San Jose de Flores, a quinta but a short distance beyond the suburbs of the city, where General Urquiza held his head-quarters. Having obtained the necessary permission, granted only to the representatives of foreign powers, we started for San Jose*, accompanied by Mr. Schenck. After riding through many bar- ricaded streets, a ponderous gate swung back to give us egress; in going through which, we passed over a subterranean mine with train laid. The marks of war were upon the deserted and batter- ed houses, which, standing between the line of the besieging army and city, had suffered in the skirmishing that occasionally took place. After riding a mile and a half in the country, we ob- served a group of officers lounging before a quinta. There was little of the pomp and circumstance of war about the quarters of Urquiza, and yet he commanded an effective army of gauchos. Climate and the habits of these soldiers rendered an elaborate commissariat entirely unnecessary ; their food was beef, and beef only, without bread or vegetables ; the forage of their horses the grass of the pampas. From the spirit with which many groups seemed to be amusing themselves, and the careless indifference of others lounging and sleeping on the ground, one might have supposed it the bivouac of a victorious army. As we approached the quinta, several officers came forward to meet us, and said that our visit would be immediately announced to the general, who had not yet risen, having the night before given a ball, at which the dancing was kept up until daylight. While waiting for him, we sauntered through the grounds, where 40 UBQUIZA. we were joined by four other gentlemen, introduced as deputies from the Congress of Santa Fe, who had brought to the Provis- ional Director the Constitution which was to be submitted to the provinces for their adoption. It was modeled, they told us, upon that of the United States, save in a few points, where it would have been totally inoperative. We were soon summoned to the presence of Urquiza, a stout, well-formed person, of medium height, with fine, piercing eyes, and frank countenance. His dignified but highly courteous man- ners at once impressed me favorably. If " without education," " a mere gaucho," as I was told by many, he has a natural intelli- gence and bold capacity which will enable him to administer with ability the responsible duties imposed on him by the people of the Argentine Confederation. Our minister was unbounded in his expressions of admiration for this " man of the times ;" an opinion which impressed me favorably, knowing his familiarity with the political events which had brought Urquiza into so distinguished a position before the world. After some general conversation upon local questions, the sub- ject of the expedition was introduced, and I was exceedingly gratified at the interest he expressed for its success. He seemed readily to comprehend the benefit which La Plata would derive from my anticipated surveys ; and, as an evidence of his approval of the work, and of his good wishes for its success while operating within the jurisdiction of the Argentine states, he sent for his secretary, and directed him to make out the following instructions to the authorities of the Kiverine Provinces : [TRANSLATION.] " Long live the Argentine Confederation." " The Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation." " The American steamer of war Water Witch, from the United States of North America, having arrived in the River La Plata, and her captain, Thomas J. Page, having expressed his desire to navigate the rivers of the Argentine Confederation for scientific purposes, I enjoin and command the authorities of the Riverine Provinces that they will not present any impedi- ments to his exploration, but afford him all the assistance he may need or require. "JUSTQ J. URQUIZA. "San Jose de Flores, May 27, 1853." The promptness with which this order was issued gave me an URQUIZA. JUSTO J. UEQPIZA, PEESIDENT OF THE AEGElftlNE CONFEDERATION. insight into his quick and decisive manner of transacting busi- ness. In returning to the city, though no danger could be appre- hended, as an act of courtesy he ordered an escort, commanded by one of his favorite officers, to accompany us, beyond the lines of the besieging army. I anticipated no detention in Buenos Ayres beyond what might be necessary in examining and procuring papers and documents which I deemed of importance toward facilitating our progress in the exploration of rivers over which, at different points, the neighboring nations Brazil, the Argentine Confederation, Para- guay, Bolivia, and Uruguay claimed jurisdiction, some concur- rent, others exclusive ; but an unbroken chain of circumstances 42 DELAYS. occurred to keep us for some months, during which the ."Water Witch was entirely diverted from the original objects of the ex- pedition. I appointed, at different times, a day for sailing, supposing her services would no longer be required ; but before that day would arrive, unlooked-for emergencies arose, causing a still longer de- tention. I consoled myself with the reflection that she was en- gaged in important public service in facilitating treaty negotia- tions, which, as represented by Mr. Schenck to the State Depart- ment, " could not have been concluded without her."* There was no other vessel of war in port, and, from the state of contend- ing parties, the services of one might be required at any time, to afford protection to American citizens. At last an early day in July was fixed upon to begin our work, and, on informing General Urquiza of this determination, and of- fering to take charge of any communications he might desire to have delivered in our route, I received from him a letter of intro- duction to President Lopez, in which he alluded to the expedi- tion as a work designed for scientific purposes, and commended it to his favorable consideration. " The officers looked forward with impatience to the commence- ment of the legitimate work of the expedition, and I had com- pleted every arrangement for leaving Buenos Ayres, when I re- ceived the following letter from Mr. Pendleton : "Legation of the United States, Buenos Ayres, July 3d, 1853. > " MY DEAR SIR, I am aware of your great anxiety to proceed up the river in pursuance of the objopts of the expedition under your command, and it is therefore with very great reluctance that I take leave to suggest to you * Extract of a dispatch from R. C. Schenck, Esq., to the Secretary of State: " Legation of the United States, "k Rio de Janeiro, August 23d, 1853. ) " I desire also to express to you a very high sense of the important services ren- dered to us by Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, commanding the U. S. steamer 'Water Witch.' Without his various services and assistance in carrying General Urquiza and his staff, when they retired from Buenos Ayres ; in conveying Mr. Pendleton and myself afterward to Entre Rios, and in other duties which he, with his ship, was able to perform, I hardly know how we could have succeeded in bringing our negotiations to so successful a conclusion. The presence of the ' Water Witch' for several weeks, at that particular juncture, was invaluable, and all her movements strikingly exemplified the necessity of having a vessel of her kind and class, on al- most all occasions, in the River Plate." SIEGE OF BUENOS AYRES. 43 that it is very desirable you should remain a few days longer in the port of Buenos Ayres. " Events of importance, and of a decisive character, in respect to the con- dition of this city and province, are, in my opinion, at hand. No American man-of-war is in the river ; Captain Downing, with the Jamestown, having suddenly, and without any correspondence or consultation with me on the subject, cleared out, as I have informally learned, to proceed to Rio Janeiro for the alleged purpose of having his ship caulked. " I would not make this request but for the strongest conviction on my own part that the events referred to are almost certain, and for the farther fact that I am urged to do so by many American citizens resident in Buenos Ayres, and that I have also the concurrence of Mr. Schenck, who desires me to say so to you. JOHN S. PENDLETON. "Capt. THOMAS J. PAGE, commanding U. S. steamer Water Witch." I felt it my duty to accede to this request, as the event alluded to in the letter of our Charge was that some movement of the be- sieging army against the city was imminent ; that foreigners, and all neutral persons, would be informed, in a day or two, of the in- tention of Urquiza to bombard the town ; but an extraordinary occurrence saved Buenos Ayres from this infliction. Our greatest amusement, after this new and unlooked-for aspect of affairs, was to watch the movements of the blockading squadron, and those of merchantmen seemingly running the blockade. Yery perplexing were the efforts of the first in pursuing and never over- taking vessels deeply laden with flour and many other creature comforts, which would undoubtedly enrich the lucky merchant to whom they were consigned, and feed the hungry population whom Urquiza hoped to starve into terms. The skill was wonderful with which this squadron fired only to miss those running store- houses ; and its manoeuvres not to intercept ships to which, for an ample " quid pro quo," permission had been already given to enter most amusing. There was treachery somewhere, but, before Urquiza was aware of it, all was consummated by the commander-in-chief ; and in full view of the foreign, national, and commercial ships in the inner and outer roads, and an immense concourse of people evidently gathered on the Plaza to witness the scene, the squadron was de- livered up to the " inside" party. We at first watched the movements of these vessels with inter- est and excitement as they came in one after the other, ^expecting to witness a fair fight; but, as we saw the rigging manned, and 44 MEDIATION OF FOREIGN MINISTERS. listened to the hearty cheers of both sides, as each steamer and vessel entered and anchored ; when we had seen the officers go deliberately on shore, where they were received with the most en- thusiastic demonstrations of joy, our contemptuous indignation may be imagined. Public rumor pronounced this act the consummation of a bar- gain, and even went so far as to specify the sum of 13,000 ounces as the share of the commanding officer, with an equal amount di- vided among the officers and crews. For the truth of this I do not pretend to vouch. I give it as a rumor of the time, generally credited. " The game was well worth the candle." The players knew well that, without the co-operation of the blockading squad- ron, there could be no reduction of the city. By its defection, a wide gate was opened for the introduction of supplies. Though a bombardment of Buenos Ayres had been considered imminent, it seems never to have been the intention of Urquiza to resort to so desperate a measure. By interrupting trade and cut- ting off supplies he had hoped to bring the authorities to terms. A fair opportunity was now presented for the mediation of the representatives of foreign powers. It was offered and accepted by the belligerent parties, and ended by the withdrawal of the be- sieging army. Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck took an active part in the negotiations, thus terminating a civil contest which, to one ;; side or the other, must ultimately have been highly disastrous. A little before the cessation of hostilities, our representatives, at the same time with those of England and France, concluded a treaty relating especially to the navigation of the Martin Garcia Channel, through which the Uruguay and main branches of the Parana empty into La Plata. It was supposed to command ef- fectually the entrance of the upper waters, all vessels of more than eight feet draught being obliged to pass within pistol-shot of its shore.* This treaty guaranteed the free navigation of the channel to all foreign flags, the governments who were parties to it agreeing to .use their influence to prevent the occupation or possession of this * Article 5 of treaty for the free navigation of the Rivers Parana and Uruguay, concluded on the 18th July, 1853 : " The high contracting parties, considering that the island of Martin Garcia may, from its position, embarrass and impede the free navigation of the confluents of the River Plate, agree to use their influence to prevent the possession of the said island from being retained or held by any state of the River Plate or its confluents which shall not have given its adhesion to the principle of their free navigation. FKEE NAVIGATION. 45 island by any nation that should attempt to close the navigation. At the time of this treaty it was in possession of the Argentine forces, but, by the defection of their squadron, jurisdiction over it passed into the hands of Buenos Ayres. The surveys of the Wa- ter Witch subsequently disclosed a channel on the other side of a greater depth by two feet, and so distant as to lessen its import- ance as a military position. The new channel will also divide the jurisdiction over the passage between Uruguay and Buenos Ayres so long as the island shall be retained by the latter : a possession acquiesced in by the former, but never conceded as a right. The entire trade of those countries, save that which might be carried on in vessels of small draught by Las Palmas, must pass through one or the other, either or both of which might easily be blockaded by a very small naval force in co-operation with bat- teries on the island. The importance of this new channel was strikingly exemplified in a correspondence between the ministers of Brazil and the government of Buenos Ayres a short time before its discovery. In February, 1855, a large Brazilian squadron passed through the channel of Martin Garcia on its way to Paraguay. Buenos Ayres complained of this as an infringement of her sovereignty, permission not having been obtained for the passage of these ships ; for, upon the ground of holding territory on both sides of the channel, Martin Garcia being on the east, she based her right to prohibit the passage of a foreign fleet. Whether, under exist- ing treaties, she possessed this right, is a question to be settled by diplomatists; but by the discovery of the new channel, even should the justice of her jurisdiction over Martin Garcia be fully recognized, it would avail her nothing more than closing the old highway, leaving a better passage, over which, at most, she could exercise but a concurrent power. An acquaintance with the unbounded resources of the basin of La Plata can alone impress us with the importance of maintaining the free navigation of its interior waters to all flags, and the treat- ies between Urquiza, England, France, and the United States were only a consummation of the decree of August, 1852, declaratory of this fact. Buenos Ayres will scarcely be permitted by the upper repub- lics to renew the old exploded system of closing the rivers ; but she is doubtless annoyed that so enlightened an act should have * z< 46 NEGOTIATIONS. been among the first of Urquiza's administration, and is conse- quently disposed to regard it as one of usurpation. She surely can not be so blind to her own interests as not to discover that it is freighted with immense benefits to herself. Her geographical position at the very portal of these tributaries will enable her, with her present population and capital, not only to maintain the ascendency she has always held as the emporium of La Plata, but to become one of the greatest cities of the American conti- nent. The detention of the "Water "Witch was not at an end with the siege of Buenos Ayres ; her presence was deemed essential in facil- itating and carrying out some diplomatic movements to which the new aspect of poli tical affairs had given rise ; and though the con- nection between these duties and those prescribed by my letter of instructions from the Secretary of the Navy may not appear at first sight, the sequel will show that the service was not only one of deep interest to our government and people, by aiding in estab- lishing a foundation on which individual rights in connection with commercial enterprises might be maintained, but at the moment and for all time to come it created a deep feeling of respect on the part of the people of the Argentine Confederation for the flag borne by the "Water "Witch. It subsequently facilitated the work of the expedition, and caused the officers to be received within the Confederation with special marks of respect and hospitality when- ever they were brought in contact with the authorities or people of the country. Before the close of the negotiations which resulted in an adjust- ment of the difficulties between the contending parties, besiegers and besieged, I received the subjoined note from Messrs. Pendle- ton and Schenck : "Legation of the United States, > Buenos Ayres, July 10th, 1853. > "Sin, We are engaged in some confidential negotiations at present which are likely to result in an accommodation of the difficulties existing at Buenos Ayres between the parties to the civil war. There is no absolute certainty as to the event, but there is a sufficient probability of success to justify us in requesting that you will not leave the place for a few days. We make this request because it is a part of the present plan that the for- eign men-of-war in port may convey the Provisional Director and his escort to the neighboring town of Gualaguaychu. "As important objects connected with our duty here are likely to be at- tained more readily by the participation of the United States flag in this THE DAUGHTER OF EOSAS. 47 transaction, we think it very important you should remain, there being no other United States vessel in port. "ROBERT C. SCHENCK, "JOHN S. PENDLETOK "Ca^t. THOMAS J. PAGE, United States Steamer Water Witch." I assented to this request, and the Water Witch participated with two of her Britannic majesty's steamers in the conveyance of the Provisional Director and his suite to the province of En- tre Eios. The representative of France likewise offered the "Provisional Director" the use of a national vessel, but, on. repairing with the others to Palermo, the point of embarkation, the French steamer, being totally unprepared for the service, did not join the escort. The duty consequently devolved on H. B. M. steamers Trident, Lieutenant Commanding Harvey, Locust, Lieutenant Day, and the U. S. steamer Water Witch. Only the staff, a few civil officers who were with General Urquiza, and such of the forces as had formed his escort, in all four hundred persons, were conveyed by these vessels, while the main body of the army marched by land to their respective destinations. The " Provisional Director" selected the Water Witch for the passage of himself and suite. We repaired at the appointed time to the anchorage off Paler- mo, the celebrated and once beautiful residence of the Dictator Kosas and his fair daughter " Manuelita." It is about two miles north of the city, and is now occupied as a barrack for soldiers. Slightly elevated above the river, nature had done nothing for Palermo, but the taste and wealth of Eosas had made it a paradise. The dictator was capable of one tender emotion, love for his fair and only child, and in seeking to manifest this affection, a sense of the beautiful in art and nature seems to have been awakened in the breast of this hard man. Nothing was spared that could adorn either dwelling or grounds. There were extensive groves of orange-trees, and some idea of the labor and expense bestowed on this domain may be gathered from the fact that hundreds of sol- diers cleaned their foliage leaf by leaf. The road leading to the city was made with care, and being adorned and shaded by large trees, had become the fashionable afternoon drive. Some of the former visitors to Palermo assured me that the graceful manners of the Senorita Manuelita lent a charm to this residence which nei- ther art nor the lavished money of Kosas could ever bestow. 48 URQUIZA ON THE WATER WITCH. Not only the gay and fashionable claimed her society as that of an accomplished and elegant person, but some of the broken- hearted victims of Kosas' policy sought her protection and inter- cession, as one endowed with all the tenderest and noblest impulses of a woman's character. On the 13th of July the Water Witch anchored off Palermo, and on the same day Urquiza, accompanied by Mr. Pendleton, came on board. He had with him a noble dog, and I was amused at his solicitude for the safe embarkation of this animal, which he saw in the boat before he would himself leave the shore. He had been his constant companion for many years, and the stories of his sagacity and fidelity were really marvelous. Immediately preceding the arrival of the general, under a sa- lute from the English and French ships, his suite, composed of military and civil officers, in all forty-five persons, with thirty- three soldiers, had embarked on board the Water Witch. The following day the remainder of the party was conveyed on board the English steamers. Intending to land Mr. Pendleton and receive Sir Charles Hotham, the British minister, who desired to visit General Urquiza, I got under way, and stood for the inner anchorage off the city, as the speediest means of accomplishing both objects. The " Provisional Director" sat on the quarter-deck, immovable as a statue: he surveyed with impassible countenance the people, who, having followed the movements of the Water Witch, crowded the Playa, house-tops, and the shores of the river, to obtain a glimpse of him. In "rounding to" for the purpose of standing out of the "Eoads," we passed in full view of the "naval" force which had distin- guished itself in so extraordinary a manner. We can not but suppose that his breast was full of honest indignation, but not the movement of a muscle betrayed it. The English steamers had stood on their way from Palermo to the entrance of the Martin Garcia Channel, but ere they reached it the Water Witch came up with them, and led the way into the Uruguay. We were bound for the port of Gualaguaychu, or the nearest landing we could make on the river to General Urquiza's " estancia," I can well imagine that the deck of the Water Witch presented the appearance of a California steamer when the gold fever was at its height. Before we had become " shaken down," it seemed im- possible that her expansive power could meet the requirements THE VOYAGE. 49 of her human freight. M j little cabin had been arranged for the "Provisional Director," but, with becoming gallantry, he took a berth in the ward-room, yielding the claim of rank to the preroga- tive of " woman's rights." The wife of one of his generals, with her daughter, had for some months shared the dangers and discom- forts of the besieging army, and they now sought the protection of our flag. The cabin was a wee bit of a " sailor's snug harbor.'' No crinolined lady could have found room in it for the amplitude of her skirts, but Senora and her daughter, during the five days they were with us, made themselves comfortable within its narrow limits. The officers cordially united with me in yielding their berths to our guests ; but so limited were the accommoda- tions of the Water Witch, that the mess-table presented a contin- uous scene of "fire and fall back," and, though somewhat worsted in the attack, maintained its ground, and stood ready to meet each charge. I was- much struck .with General Urquiza's extreme temperance in eating and drinking, a habit acquired probably in his military career. At an early hour a negro servant* took him his mate, and at noon he dined, using water as his only beverage. The re- mainder of the day he ate nothing. Our guests, notwithstanding the crowded state of the boat, seemed to enjoy themselves, and on the fifth day from their reception on board we reached the an- chorage for Gualaguaychu, the pilot assuring us that beyond this we could not pass. Subsequently, when our surveys extended to this river, I discovered that we could have ascended to Concep- cion del Uruguay, where General Urquiza wished to land. With several of the officers I accompanied him on shore, his suite and escort having been landed the day before. On leaving the steamer, under a salute from the Locust, we were joined by Captain Day, and the Argentine flag was hauled down from the mast-head of the Water Witch. I explained to the "Provisional Director" my reason for not saluting the fear of injury to the chronometers, upon which the success of our future work de- pended. The whole party were safely landed, and the general, in true Spanish style, embraced me in saying farewell, and begged that I would always consider him my friend. His officers also left us with many expressions of gratitude,, and I had the satisfaction to * This man had for many years been the body-servant of Urquiza, and at the battle of Monte Caseros came well-nigh capturing Rosas. 4 50 ENGLISH STEAMERS AGROUND. know that every effort had been made for their comfort while the recipients of our country's hospitalities. The steamer Trident had not arrived, which (anticipating no difficulty) we attributed to her being a " slow craft." By the time we returned to the Water Witch it was quite dark, and as our pilot was rather inexperienced, and the navigation of this part of the Uruguay intricate, I determined to remain at anchor until day- light ; however, about ten o'clock, I had a visit from Captain Day, who had heard from the "Trident:" she was "hard and fast" aground, and he requested me to accompany him, and give her immediate assistance. My pilot was unwilling to take the respon- sibility of running the steamer at night ; but, as Captain Day ex- pressed confidence in his man, I told him to take the lead, and I would follow. We agreed upon a signal a gun should the Locust run aground ; and, with this understanding, we moved on swimming- ly for some time, congratulating ourselves that the worst had been passed, when the concerted signal was made. On slowly coming up to the Locust, we discovered that she was aground. A hawser was made fast to her, taken on board the Water Witch, and with a few revolutions of the engine she was again afloat, when we proceeded on our way with the same arrangement of signals. A very few minutes elapsed when the gun warned us that she was again aground. An effort similar to the first was made to give her relief, but to no purpose ; under a full pressure of steam, she had driven her bows on a sand-bank. We came to anchor, and our men turned in for a few hours' rest. In the morning we left the "Locust" to wait for a rise of the tide, and proceeded to the relief of the " Trident." After making an ineffectual pull, we relieved her of as many of the Argentine soldiers as could be received on the deck of the Water Witch, and landed them at the same point where General Urquiza disem- barked. Again we returned to the relief of the two steamers. Finding the tide rising, we went first i to the "Trident," and commenced the process of tugging ; in a short time she was afloat, and pro- ceeded on her course to land the remainder of the troops. The Locust was now free ; and, congratulating our friends upon their release, we made all speed on our return to Buenos Ayres. It gave me pleasure to be able to render even these small offices LETTER FROM THE MINISTERS. 51 to our brother sailors of Old England ; for, in the various parts of the world where my professional duties have called me, her representatives, whether diplomatic, naval, or military, have uni- formly manifested respect for our flag, and extended to myself personally every courtesy as an officer of the United States Navy. CHAPTER III. Letter from Mr. Schenck. Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza. Framing of the Treaty. Marking Cattle. Farm and Residence of the Director. Os- triches, Partridges, and Deer : Mode of hunting them. Horses. Return to Buenos Ayres. The Galera. Reception at Concepcion. The College. The Ball. Native Grace of Spanish American Women. Leave Concepcion. The Water Witch. Coaling at Buenos Ayres. Final Departure for the Ascent of the River. UPON our arrival at Buenos Ayres I found another letter await- ing me from Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck. It ran as follows : ^ Legation of the United States. ) Buenos Ayres, July 22d, 1853. $ "To Captain THOMAS J. PAGE, U. S. Steamer Water Witch. " DEAR SIR, We wish very much that you would take us to-morrow to Gualaguaychu, or ( Concepcion del Uruguay.' There is no other mode of conveyance by which it is possible for us to accomplish a highly important public object, no less than the making of a treaty of friendship and com- merce, which, if made, will fully accomplish the purposes of the special mis- sion to the Argentine States. " It is indispensable that one of us Mr. Schenck leave for Rio in the packet to sail ten days hence. With the aid of the Water Witch, we think the business may be done. Without it, there is no possibility of our co- operation in this work. Very respectfully, &c., "ROBERT C. SCHENCK, "JOHN S. PENDLETON." I could not hesitate as to the response, and early the following morning we were steaming for Gualaguaychu. In two days we reached the nearest point to which the Water Witch could ap- proach, and anchored off the mouth of a river of the same name. I accompanied the ministers in a boat to the town, a distance of eighteen miles. Senores Carill and Gorostiaga, appointed by General Urquiza as negotiators on his fart, were awaiting the arrival of our minis- ters. Under instructions from the Provisional Director, handsome 52 THE TKEATY. preparations had been made for their reception and entertainment at the government house. Accompanied by the Argentine ministers, we started the fol- lowing morning for the estancia* of Urquiza. Our conveyance was a galera, a vehicle not unlike an omnibus, and capable of holding comfortably ten or twelve persons ; the door Behind ; it was drawn by four horses, each mounted by a gaucho, and at a gallop we passed through a gently undulating country, clear of wood save on the margin of the river, but covered with a luxu- riant growth of grass. After traveling about fifty miles, the dwell- ing of Urquiza appeared in sight. Throughout the whole distance since leaving Gualaguaychu we had been driving through his estancia, which extended some ten miles farther, embracing in one unbroken section of Entre Eios several hundred square miles. The soil is highly fertile, and the cattle, horses, mules, and sheep are superior to those of any other province in the Confederation. A part of this estate was tenant- ed out, and is appropriated almost exclusively to grazing ; but a fine field of wheat and thriving nursery of fruit-trees proved its equal adaptation to agriculture. On reaching the house, a cordial reception awaited us from the general, who came forward as we descended from the galera, and received our party with many kind and courteous expressions of welcome. He knew that our time was limited, and instructed his ministers to use all possible dispatch. The work was conducted in good faith, with an eye to the benefit of both countries, and ended in the conclusion of a "treaty of friendship and com- merce," signed immediately by the "Provisional Director," and since ratified by our government. While the treaty was being copied, we were much amused and interested by visits to various departments of this great estate. The day after, our arrival, the general proposed that we should ride out and see the process of marking cattle. Mounted on beautiful horses, a gallop of a few miles brought us in sight of a large herd, around which were stationed mounted gauchos, each equipped with lasso and bolas.f The marking was * A cattle-farm, but not exclusively so, where there is some cultivation of the soil. t The lasso is of platted hide-rope, about sixty feet in length, and three quar- ters of an inch in diameter, attached to the cincha, or surcingle of the recado or saddle at one end, and has an iron ring in the othefc through which a noose is formed when it is to be thrown. The "Was" is of two kinds: that used for catching cattle consists of three MARKING CATTLE. 55 effected by branding with a hot iron upon the rump of an animal a letter or character, which made it the indisputable property of a certain estanciero. These are registered in each district, with the names of the owners attached. When an animal is to be caught, a gaucho approaches the herd, with one end of the lasso attached to his cincha, holding the oth- er, which has a large running noose, in his right hand ; and, giv- ing it impetus by whirling it round his head, dexterously keep- ing the noose open, he throws it with unerring aim over the horns of the beast, and, wheeling quickly, drags him out to receive his brand, the whole operation not occupying a minute. But it must not be supposed that this is always accomplished without a strug- gle ; at times the " marking" affords great amusement, at others excitement and even danger. A bullock escapes from the herd, chase is given, and often continued for some time before the rider can get within throwing distance, such is the fleetness of the wild cattle of the country. As the gaucho casts the lasso, he suddenly reins up his horse, while the animal instinctively braces himself to receive the shock, and the bullock is often thrown to the ground with such force as to make it a wonder how he escaped a broken neck. Then, again, on finding himself a prisoner, he will run round and round, dash first to one side, then to the other, plow up the ground, or turn and furiously attack the pursuer, who, on such occasions, never parts with his lasso, which he would inevitably lose if detached from his cincha ; and as he can not disengage it from the horns of the animal, he manoeuvres his horse with in- conceivable skill, watching, following, and anticipating every movement of his prisoner with the rapidity of lightning, until re- lieved from his perilous position by a brother gaucho, who throws the lasso round the hind legs of the beast. After being greatly amused with the "marking," we rode over to see the general's field of luxuriant wheat, then visited his nurs- ery of choice fruits, and a garden where many vegetables known to our markets were growing in perfection. His dwelling is built of stone, and in the massive style of the wooden balls, or stones, about three inches in diameter, covered with raw hide, each joined to the other in a common centre by a thong of the same of about three feet in length. The other is of two balls, smaller, and is used to catch ostriches. The gaucho holds the smallest ball in his right hand, and, giving the other two a rapidly whirling movement, throws them with great velocity and unerring aim at the legs of the animal ; and the more he struggles to extricate himself, the more he becomes entangled. 56 URQUIZA'S ESTANCIA. houses of Buenos Ayres. It is of one story, forms a quadrangle of about eighty feet, and contains eight or ten spacious and lofty SAN JO8E, THE ESTANCIA OF URQUIZA, rooms : from the roof rose two handsome turrets, commanding ex- tensive views of his estancia. In every direction, his own lands extended far beyond the horizon ; and this was only one of sev- eral estates. Within a few miles of his house he had forbidden his grounds to all sportsmen ; consequently, herds of deer, ostrich- es, and innumerable partridges, large and small, were seen in ev- ery direction. I counted as many as fifty ostriches in a flock, some of them in the court of the dwelling, and as tame as barn- door fowls. They are caught in great numbers ; the ostrich with the bolas, the small partridge with the noose, and the larger spe- cies with dogs. The small partridge crouches close to the ground ; a man on horseback, with a long stick, at the end of which is a noose, approaches' and rides in a circle round the frightened bird. As if under the influence of a spell, or charmed by the man's eye, it sits quietly while the rider gradually contracts the circle, until near enough to slip the noose over its head. The large partridge usually makes two, but occasionally three flights. On first rising it is pursued at full speed by the mounted gaucho and his dog; for, while on the wing, there is nothing to hide it from the eye of the sportsman ; and scarcely has it touched THE GALERA. 59 the earth, when again it is "put up," and, flying until exhausted, it conceals itself in the long grass, where it is ferreted out by the dog. Some idea of the income of such an estancia as Urquiza's may be formed when I state that upon this of San Jose there were 70,000 sheep, 40,000 head of cattle, and 2000 horses. Among the latter were several Manadas, of a beautiful mouse color, called Ldbunos, or "otter-like;" others of Over as, or "piebald." These studs were carefully kept apart, to avoid any mingling of color or char- acteristic. I can not imagine a more beautiful sight than the herds of these .fine animals coursing over the rich lands of San Jose. The value of each in the United States would reach some hund- reds of dollars ; here one could be bought for sixteen. On the third day after our arrival at San Jose, the treaty hav- ing been concluded and signed by the " Provisional Director," we prepared for our return to Buenos Ayres. The promptness and good faith shown in this negotiation are worthy of praise, when we remember that diplomacy is the forte of the Spanish American, and that one of their marked characteristics is to postpone for the morrow that which should be done to-day.* General Urquiza earnestly desired that in our return route we would stop a night at Concepcion del Uruguay, the place of his birth and early life, assuring us that, though the distance was greater, we could spend a night at Concepcion, and yet reach Gualaguaychu at the time appointed for our embarkation. He had well calculated the speed of his own horses, and his assurance was realized in our arrival at the appointed tune. A galera, drawn by four beautiful mouse-colored horses, each mounted by a gaucho in full costume, was brought to the door, its lockers abundantly supplied with wines and other creature com- forts. With mingled feelings of respect and esteem, we bade adieu to our distinguished host, and, accompanied by Senores Carill and Grostiaga, and escorted by a son of General Urquiza on horseback, we moved rapidly over the undulating pampa, stopping only to change horses from the herd of "lobunos" driven for this purpose ahead of us. On our arrival at Concepcion, a pretty town of about 4000 in- habitants, on the Uruguay Eiver, and distant about eighteen miles from San Jose, we were met by the municipal authorities and principal inhabitants, and conducted to a spacious house prepared * See Appendix C and D. 60 COLLEGE OF CONCEPCION. for our reception, over which was immediately hoisted the Amer- ican flag. As we entered, a band of music in the court played our national air, and continued afterward with operatic pieces in ' admirable style. In short, every preparation had been made to give us a distinguished reception. We accepted these honors in the spirit that dictated them, as a tribute of respect and amity for the United States. Our first visit was to the College, established by Urquiza, where youths are educated at the expense of the province. The build- COLLEGB OF COMCEPOTON. ing is handsome and commodious, and the benefits of this institu- tion are shared without partiality by rich and poor ; indeed, the latter are more highly its recipients, for, in addition to a liberal education, they receive gratis both food and clothing. The pres- ident of the institution is Mr. La Eoque, a Parisian, and the Pro- fessor of English Mr. Clark, a graduate of an English college. These gentlemen, with ability, perseverance, and untiring zeal, give their best energies to the work, and would, from their per- sonal standing alone, offer a guarantee for its success, did we not know that their exertions are seconded by other professors, well qualified for their respective posts. It is now considered the first institution of the Confederation, that of Cordova, formerly so cel- ebrated, having dwindled to a mere provincial school. We were conducted through the buildings, and saw enough to convince us that the arrangements and system were as admirable KECEPTION AT CONCEPCION. Ql for the moral and physical as for the mental training of the youth indeed, quite equal to some of the institutions of our own coun- try. The philosophical and mathematical apparatus seemed full and complete, and the illustrations of the various mechanical pow- ers excellent. The higher branches of mathematics are careful- ly taught, together with the classics, English and French, and all those branches with us comprehended in the expression " good English education." Attached to the college is a primary school. The Secretary of the Navy had permitted my second son, a youth twelve years old, to accompany the expedition. I afterward placed him at this college, and was gratified with his progress. The benefits of a liberal education are now eagerly sought by all classes, and so numerous are the applications for admission to this establishment, which has ample accommodations for 160 pu- pils, that large additions will probably be made to its buildings, or similar institutions may be opened in other provinces. Music is one of the branches taught, aftd we were both surprised and de- lighted with the performances of a band of forty boys. Among them was a youth whose genius was extraordinary. He composed with great facility, played upon sixteen instruments, and yet he had never been out of the province of Entre Kios. This institution will ever remain a noble monument of the en- lightened views of Urquiza. In educating its youth, he is giving stability to the government of a country hitherto at the mercy of each military chieftain who in turn aspired to rule. I must not omit to mention one fact communicated to me by the president of the college, which reflects high honor on its founder. Occasion- ally the funds of the institution are not adequate to its demands; and when its wants have been made known to General Urquiza, he has invariably, from his private resources, made ample provi- sion to meet them. On returning to the house arranged for- our reception, we found a sumptuous dinner, with abundance of fine wines and cigars, awaiting us. This was followed by a ball, at which was assem- bled all the beauty of the place. The dress of the fair senoritas showed that the prohibitory edicts of Eosas, however severely they may have operated upon commerce, had availed nothing in secluding them from a knowledge of the fashions. The Spanish American women have little knowledge of the conventionalities of other countries, but they are well br.ed and handsome. With indescribable grace and precision, these ladies 62 RETURN TO BUENOS AYRES. of Concepcion (many of whom had never been out of Entre Eios) went through all the fashionable dances of the day, varying them two or three times in the course of the evening by the Spanish contra-dance. It was expected that we should be not only spectators, but ac- tive participators in the festivities of the evening. Not to dance, and dance well, would expose us to the suspicion of neglected education. As the diplomatic and naval representatives of the great republic of the North, it was necessary to avoid such an im- putation. We made the effort, though we feared in doing so that what might have been a conjecture would remain among the fair women of Entre Eios " a fixed fact." "We left Concepcion del Uruguay at an early hour the follow- ing morning, and, at full gallop, continued our journey in the galera. Our way still lay through the estancia of General Ur- quiza, but in a different direction from that by which we entered. The character of the country was materially the same, herds of deer, flocks of ostriches, and innumerable partridges alone break ing the monotony of the pampa scenery. Arrived at Gualaguaychu, we lost no time in procuring a sail- boat, hoping to reach the Water Witch that night ; but, on getting to the mouth of the river, we found the wind too high to attempt a "dead beat," our steamer being near the opposite shore of the Banda Oriental,* distant about six miles. It was the last of July, the second winter month of this lati- tude ; strong south winds made the night really cold, (and our situation in the open boat for many hours was not only one of discomfort, but positive suffering. On reaching the Water Witch the next morning, and finding all ready, we weighed anchor for Buenos Ayres, with the earnest hope that nothing would again occur to divert us from the objects of the expedition. The Water Witch was nominally one of the vessels of the squadron on the Brazil station, and, though really detached for specific purposes, it has been shown that circumstances made it imperative that she should perform the duties of one in the ab- sence of all other vessels, and in cases where public interests were deeply involved. Mr. Kennedy, then Secretary of the Navy, with enlightened views, and a liberal exercise of the authority vested in him, detailed her for the scientific work on which she * The East Side, another name for the State of Uruguay. UNIVERSITY or UNDER WAY. 63 was about to enter with simply such additions to her ordinary outfit as a few books, instruments, and materials for the preser- vation of specimens of natural history, which could be supplied from the contingent fund of the department, in the absence of any appropriation by Congress. With no scientific corps on board, and only one or two officers over and above her ordinary complement, in a few weeks after she was launched from the navy yard of Washington we were steaming for La Plata. On reaching Buenos Ayres, I learned from the " consul" the arrival at Montevideo of a "cargo of coal, sent out by the govern- ment for the use of the expedition, and at once proceeded to that place. We entered the harbor in the midst of a violent pampero, which continued for some days. After the storm, we took on board as much coal as the steamer could carry, deposited a small quantity on shore, and made arrangements for the transportation of the remainder to some point on the Parana. The freight de- manded for this latter service was so exorbitant $12 per ton that I found it cheaper to purchase a hulk of sufficient capacity to re- ceive it all. Taking this in tow, I afterward established it as a depot at the town of La Paz, in Entre Eios, distant about four hundred miles above Martin Garcia. This we found to be a con- venient point for coaling, either in ascending or descending the river. After a diversion of nearly four months from the legitimate work of the expedition, I now, for the first time, realized that we were fairly under way for the scene of our labors. I had the sat- isfaction of knowing that the time had been usefully spent in for- warding the diplomatic aims of the government, and in protecting the interests of American citizens.J 64 TAKING OBSERVATIONS. CHAPTER IV. Chronometers. Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. Construction of Charts. Delta of the Parana. Diamante. Fruits. Oranges. Peaches. Beautiful Scenery. Mouths of the Parana. The Parbon. The Gualaguay. TheRepunte. Periodical Risings of Water. Islands. The Seibo and Sause. San Pedro. Obligardo. Passage forced by the English and French. Island Formations. Variations of Channel. Pilots. Estancieros. San Nicholas. Rosario. Its commercial Importance. Advantages over Buenos Ayres. Winds. Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq. Banks of the River. Convent of San Lorenzo. The Tercero. Mr. Campbell's Survey. The Chaco Hills. Scenery. Diaman- te. Ferries. Trees. The Algarroba and Espinilla. TAKING- our departure from Buenos Ayres, the point to which all determinations of longitude were to be referred, we passed the island of Martin Garcia September 1st, 1853*. The rates of the chronometers had been repeatedly verified, and they were found to be uniform in every instance. The work was consequently be- gun with every confidence in the excellence of the instruments. These chronometers, five in number, had been selected by the Su- perintendent of the Naval Observatory for this special service. That the character of the work in its explorations and surveys may be fully understood, even by those unpracticed in such oper- ations, it may be proper to explain somewhat in detail the manner in which it was conducted. That portion of it under the head of " Surveys," which may be seen on the map, is established on points of latitude and longitude determined with care by officers who were competent observers, and with nicely-adjusted instruments. The latitude of these points is derived from observations of north and south stars on the merid- ian, their longitude by chronometer from stars east and west of the meridian and from the altitude of the sun, and the variation of the compass from observations of the sun. These were made with the sextant and artificial horizon. Those made during the day were always taken on shore ; but at night, so perfectly motionless was the steamer that no difficulty was experienced in observing the stars with the artificial horizon on the hurricane-deck. The place of anchorage was thus determined every night, whensoever the weather would allow ; and none of the principal points were passed without coming to anchor, and obtaining satisfactory re- CONSTRUCTION OF CHARTS. 65 suits for the establishment of their geographical position and va- riation of the compass. We arrived at the distances between the points thus determined by reference to a uniform number of rev- olutions of the engine, which, in a given time, had been ascertain- ed to be equal, or nearly so, to a certain distance. Any erroneous estimate that had been made could not extend beyond the point of observation, so that there was at all times a check upon any error of judgment or irregularity in the speed of the steamer. That the charts should give as faithful a representation of the rivers and adjacent country as the character of the work would admit of, there were at all times, when the steamer was under way, two officers engaged in it exclusive of myself. An elevated position on the hurricane-deck, which gave an un- obstructed view, was selected for this purpose. One of the ob- servers, with the chart-paper before him, projected the course and distance, the width and depth of the river, delineating the topog- raphy on either bank, while the other recorded the same in his note-book, together with all such remarks as would illustrate more clearly any peculiar characteristic, such as the growth on the banks, whether suitable for steamers or for other purposes. The sound- ings were made at intervals of five minutes when in deep water, but when in shoal as often as they could be had. The velocity of the current, which varied with the locality, was repeatedly ascer- tained. I have before alluded to the island of Martin Garcia as a mili- tary position of some importance, from its commanding what was supposed to be the most considerable channel of communication between the waters of the Parana and La Plata. It is of granitic formation, and occupies a position at the head of "La Plata" where this river is twenty-five miles wide, and yet at its narrowest point. Here also it receives its two great affluents, the Parana and Uru- guay, their waters uniting about twenty-four miles above this isl- and, and retaining the name of the latter until lost in that of " La Plata," The Parana is the more important of the two, and possesses already a far more extended navigation, and affluents that present a vast field for exploration. "We first entered its waters through the main branch, "Parana Guazu." All vessels "bound up" either the Parana or Uruguay by this channel must pass within range of " Martin Garcia." Exclusive of this and the one of greater depth subsequently revealed by the 5 66 DELTA OF THE PARANA. surveys of the "Water Witch, there are two other branches, the " Brasso Bravo" and " Brasso Largo," farther north, through which this river flows into the Uruguay, and others of less importance to navigation, through which it communicates directly with La Plata. The principal, and only one of these latter worthy of note, and which will become, when its entrance shall be better known, generally used by vessels of six and seven feet draught, is the passage of Las Palmas, the branch through which Sebastian Cabot entered the waters of the Parana, and to which he gave the name it now bears. A delta of vast extent is formed by the various branches of this river. Its apex, at the town of Diamante in Entre Bios, is distant from its base in a right line one hundred and seventy-eight miles, while its base, the line on which these branches empty into the Biver La Plata and Uruguay, is about forty miles in extent. Diamante is assumed as the apex of this delta, because at that point, in ascending, we find, for the first time, by the approach of the firm, elevated lands, the width of the river contracted to one mile. To give a minute description of the innumerable small branches up to this apex, to follow them through their windings, would tend only to perplex the reader. They nevertheless serve a useful purpose by giving access to a labyrinth of islands, the wild fruits and charcoal of which lead to quite an extensive trade with Buenos Ayres. During the season, the fruiterers lay their barks against the banks, and load from the overhanging peach and orange trees. This latter fruit is bitter, and used only for preserving, or making a very popular drink, which, in the course of time, becomes pleas- antly acidulated. The peaches are of excellent quality, and constitute a large por- tion of the supply of the Buenos Ayrean market. These fruits are not found on the low and frequently submerged islands which border the main channel-way the Parana Guazu but grow abundantly upon those in the vicinity of the pass of Las Palmas, and near the various other branches used only by small vessels. In the province of Buenos Ayres the peach is much cultivated for fire-woodj and a tree of three years yields no indifferent supply of both fruit and fuel. Its growth in the wild and free islands of the Parana, and" the perfection of its fruit without culture, are facts too extraordinary not to impress a stranger, who naturally asks the origin of trees well known not to be indigenous. My inquiries FRUITS. SCENERY. 67 on this point were invariably answered by Quien sabe? "Who knows?" Some of the more intelligent natives trace them to the forecast of the Jesuits ; others to the boatmen who, prior to the Jesuits, frequented these islands, and may, without purpose, have cast around the seeds. Again, their propagation is ascribed to the migration of birds and beasts from the main land. This we doubt, for among the many isles of the Parana delta there are others of the same formation and age -judging from their strata on which no fruits are to be found. So vast is the yield of these trees, that Buenos Ayres is not only supplied with fresh fruit during the season, but quantities are dried. Some enterprising citizens have also manufactured from them brandy of excellent quality; but this, like many other industrial projects in that country, has not been continued with perseverance or energy. When improved by grafting, inoculation, or the smallest degree of culture, the fruit matures to very great perfection. \S Toward the close of our work, these branches of the Parana be- came the scene of operations during fruit season. A more en- chanting spectacle than was presented at that time by these isl- ands can scarcely be imagined. Poets would have reveled in it as a scene of paradisiacal beauty. The lower banks were fringed with aquatic plants ; the little channels were shaded by the wil- low, whose long, drooping branches dipped gracefully into the wa- ters, and formed archways, under which the boatmen moored their craft for the convenience of the siesta. On all sides the vegeta- tion was tropical in its luxuriance, and the air was laden with del- icate odor?. The eye. would have been fatigued by the gorgeous mingling of colors presented by the rich foliage of the " seibo," the flower and fruit of the orange-tree, the ripe tints of the peach, the brilliant bloorn of various shrubs and parasitical plants, had it not been relieved by a verdure as refreshing as it was varied in its shades. The general course of the Parana from its mouth to the town of Rosario in Santa Fe one hundred and eighty-eight miles is northwest ; thence, up to its confluence with the Paraguay six hundred and ninety miles north, and a little easterly. We began our work, as before stated, by ascertaining its main channel, the Guazu, which, at its confluence with the Uruguay, may be said to bisect the base of the Delta, there being north of it the Brasso Largo and Brasso Bravo, and south of it the pass of Las Palmas and Arroyo Capitan. This last branch, though nar- 68 AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA. row and shallow, is important as offering a water-communication to the main or firm lands of the State of Buenos Ayres, which it skirts for some distance northward, enters the pass of Las Pal- mas, and thence becomes the most southern branch for miles. A narrow canal-like stream sets off from it, under the name of the Baradero, and, washing the ikm lands, joins the main river a mile or two below the town of > San Pedro, distant from Martin Garcia about one hundred and two miles. From this point to the apex of the Delta the main river be- comes its southern and western boundary. The most northern branches, forming at different distances the northern side, which is bounded in that direction by the province of Entre Eios, are, beginning from the Kiver Uruguay, the Brasso Largo and the Brasso Bravo ; the main river to the distance of twenty -five miles is the " Parbon," and the " Parana Cito." This last, though tortu- ous, narrow, and shallow, possesses advantages similar to those of the Arroya Capitan and Baradero, and branches off from the main river at the point we have assumed as the apex of the Delta, a few miles below Diamante. The Parbon is of great importance, being of sufficient depth for any class of vessels that could possibly enter the river, and skirts throughout its extent the firm lands of Entre Kios. The Eiver Gualaguay, which takes its rise in the interior of the province, and empties into the Parbon, affords navigation for ves- sels of six feet draught up to the port of entry of the town of Gualaguay, which is about thirty-five miles from its mouth. It passes through a portion of the province particularly rich in pas- ture-lands and stocked with fine breeds of cattle. We entered the Parana at the season of low water; and throughout the distance known as the Delta, which by the course of the river is two hundred and forty-five miles from its mouth, the least depth of water was sixteen feet, from which it varied to one hundred and five feet; the width is from one half to two and a half miles, exclusive of its various branches, which at some points extend it, from firm land to firm land, twelve miles. The character of the bottom is sandy, save where the current is too weak to retain its detritus in a floating state. The velocity of the current is two and a half miles the hour. The rise begins in December, and continues at the daily rate of two inches until about the middle of February, when it will have attained its max- imum, remaining, with a little variation, at this state for a month BRANCHES AND ISLANDS. 69 or more, when it begins to fall, and descends to its minimum point in June or July, at which it remains until the month of Oc- tober. During this month there is a partial rise of about six feet, called the "Repunte;" this continues about a month, when the river subsides again to its lowest state. These periodical changes are caused by the tropical rains of a vast region of Brazil, where many of the tributaries which swell the main river take their rise. It is well for all the practical purposes of navigation that the waters of the Parana are so subdivided: its numerous branches of course diminish the strength of the current, which, if not weak- ened by this distribution, would be a great obstacle in its ascent. Steam, but recently introduced upon its waters, will give a vast impulse to navigation, reducing a passage of eighty days by sail- ing vessels to twelve by this powerful agent. These branches constitute, exclusive of many of very minor im- portance, the principal courses through which the Parana dis- charges its great body of water into La Plata. I have alluded to its numerous islands, some of them of such recent formation as to be nameless. They gradually rise with the deposits of successive inundations and the accumulation of vege- table matter until they present a surface above high wajer. Those in the vicinity of " Las Palmas" are, as I have stated, valuable for their fruits; and as we ascended, those of older formation were found well wooded. Besides these, there are many frequently sub- merged, but covered with a thick mass of the shrubs, plants, and trees only that love humidity, such as the "seibo," willow, alder; the latter not only remarkable for its impenetrable foliage, but as being the shrub it can scarcely be called a tree which succeeds the paja grande, a wiry grass, the first growth of the newly-formed island. The seibo,* though a spongy wood, useless for fuel, adds vastly to the beauty of the vegetation ; its rich blossoms would make it, with us, the pride of ornamental grounds. The sause, or willow, is considered inferior for fuel, though used for that pur- pose, and is the third indigenous growth, rooting out the alder and taking its place. * Dobrizhoffer says of this tree, vol. i., p. 399, " A spongy weed, as soft as that of the cork-tree, so that when fresh it may be cut with a knife like an apple, but after it is dry axes are not sufficient to hew it. * * * * Whenever the tiger feels his claws burn, he is said to .rub them against the bark of this tree to relieve the pain." 70 SAN PEDRO. OBLIGADO. In the ascent of the river up to the vicinity of San Pedro, a dis- tance of one hundred and thirty miles from its mouth, the view is bounded by this labyrinth of islands. From the mast-head of the steamer, an elevation of sixty feet, nothing else was to be seen. It was a wilderness of foliage and flora. Enriched by an exuber- ant vegetation and enlivened by innumerable water-fowl, these islands were imposing features in the Parana scenery. Approaching San Pedro, we came in sight of the firm lands of the province of Buenos Ayres, a continuation of the argillo-calca- reous plateau upon which that city stands. The town is upon this high land, the level of a surrounding pampa country of vast extent. Though its existence dates from the middle of the sev- enteenth century, it has but a population of two thousand souls, and contains nothing of note, unless we may except a church erected by the Jesuits. The position of San Pedro is by no means inviting to trade, be- ing on an arm of the river which will not admit of approach to the shore save in very small craft. It can never, I think, rise to the rank of a commercial port ; its intermediate position between two cities, which will probably monopolize a vast deal of the trade of La Plata Eosario and Buenos Ayres will make it only a con- sumer of their importations. On leaving San Pedro, this elevated land as it appears from the river, though on a level with the surrounding pampa contin- ues on to the northward -and westward, at times diverging, again approaching the river, from which it appears a high bluff. At Obligado, eleven miles above San Pedro, the river contracts to a width of less than half a mile, bringing the channel within musket-range of the right bank. Again, from this point, the land is depressed, presenting a gently undulating surface richly covered with native clover and grass, on which were grazing vast herds of cattle and horses. The commanding position of Obligado was not overlooked by Eosas, who, intent upon carrying out his scheme of effectually closing these rivers, and determined to present a formidable re- sistance to a forced navigation, erected in 1845 a battery on the right bank, which was placed under the command of his brother- in-law, General Mancilla. But neither the defenses on land, nor the iron obstruction a chain thrown across the river could with- stand the courage and determination of the French and English. Mancilla obstinately disputed the passage to the steamers of the ALTERATION IN CHANNEL. 71 combined squadrons, which had under convoy a large fleet of mer- chantmen, with rich cargoes, destined for Corrientes. An English vessel steamed up to the chain stretched from shore to shore, and, under a deadly fire from the^q/tteries, lifted it to her bows and severed it, while the captain of the French steamer, acting in strict accordance with his instructions " not to land an armed force," laid his vessel close alongside the most efficient water-battery, and with shell and grape drove its defenders from their guns. The passage was effected, but with the loss of many lives, and the convoy pro- ceeded on to its destination, where the merchantmen made a prof- itable exchange and sale of cargo. To carry the reader through the labyrinth of channels and isl- lands to enumerate the latter, or describe the changes which take place annually, would afford little interest. Some of these, how- ever, are too remarkable not to deserve special notice. About five miles above San Nicholas there is a small island of such recent formation as to be nameless. A few years since it was joined to the main land, on the right bank, by a low, marshy slip of land; now there is a wide separation, and a channel of eighteen feet water. A few miles above, it was necessary for the Water Witch, when we ascended the river, to pass east of the island of Montiel, around which the river flowed in a semicircle ; in less than two years subsequently the passage west of that island had become a channel of thirty feet depth. These changes facilitate the navigation of the river as often as they embarrass or retard it. In the instance just cited, the first circuitous route embraced sixteen points of the compass, and a distance of sixteen miles, while the latter is accomplished by one course, and a distance of one and a half miles. Our charts will exhibit the changes which took place between the years 1847 and 1853. In the former year her Britannic majesty's steamer Philo- mel, under the command of Captain Sullivan, ascended the Parana to Corrientes. These changes are caused by the periodical inun- dations, and, as I have before stated, embarrass the navigation less than might be expected. The pilots are generally skillful, and from habit observant. They sometimes exhibit wonderful acuteness of perception in de- tecting, simply by inspection, any change that may have occurred in the direction of the channel. From San Pedro to Rosario, a distance of ninety miles, the char- acter of the river remains unchanged. The right bank is a con- 72 SAN NICHOLAS. ROSAKIO. tinuation of the high, land of which I have spoken as extending from Buenos Ayres. It is approached at short intervals by the windings of the river, and presents precipitous banks of indurated clay, varying in height from fifty to one hundred feet ; the sur- face soil one and a half to two feet in depth, of rich black earth, covered with luxurious pastures, upon which roved herds of cat- tle and horses diminished, it is true, by the internal dissensions which for many years have agitated the country, but still existing in vast numbers, and constituting the wealth of the estancieros, or graziers. The richest of these extensive land-holders luxuriate in the en- joyment of city life at Buenos Ayres, leaving the entire manage- ment of their estancias to capitazes* Each estancia embraces many square leagues, extending along the firm lands of the river : they are indicated by the cattle, and by the very humble tenements of the capitaz and his herdsmen. Intermediate between the two towns San Pedro and Kosario, stands the unimportant village of San Nicholas, the most northern frontier settlement of Buenos Ayres upon the river. The little stream of Arroyo del Medio, which is about two miles north of it, forms the boundary, so far as it goes, between the states of Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe, the most southern province of the Argentine Confederation, bordering on the right bank of the Parana. On the left are low lands, broken by picturesque lagoons, enlivened occa- sionally by a cloud of aquatic birds. The black-necked swan, geese, and ducks abound in great variety. Kosario, fifty-two miles from San Nicholas, is eligibly placed on the same plateau to which I have alluded so often, an elevation remarkable in the uniformity of its character. It is in the prov- ince of Santa Fe, and, I think, destined to become a place of great commercial importance. At the commencement of our survey, in September, 1853, this town, like all others of the Confederation, was only tributary to Buenos Ayres. It then contained a population of four thousand souls. Before the expedition had left the waters of La Plata in 1855, it had increased to twelve thousand, an augmentation which shows the healthful influence of trade upon the prosperity of this country. Upon the reorganization of the Confederacy, Buenos Ayres refused to join it, and Eosario was then declared a port of entry. Its position will probably make it a mart for all the * Stewards or overseers. ROSAEIO. 73 imports and exports of the eleven provinces west of the Pa- rana. Without due reflection or accurate geographical knowledge of the country, the interior position of Rosario two hundred miles from Buenos Ayres, and nearly four hundred from the ocean might be alleged, with some reason, as excluding it from a suc- cessful competition with that city ; but when we consider the va- rious influences affecting both places, Rosario, even with less cap 1 ital, a small population, and without the habits or antecedents of trade, bids fair to compete successfully for a portion of the for- eign commerce, and certainly offers larger returns to those whose enterprise may tempt them to become commercial pioneers in that quarter. Its interior position can present no permanent obstacle to the direction of trade ; and, aided by governmental influence, and by the certain prospect of connection by railway with Cor- dova, more than three hundred miles west, Buenos Ayres may well regard its future with watchful jealousy. By the introduction of steam, distance is annihilated ; and Bu- enos Ayres, though she may become the first city of South Amer- ica, with only a share of the tra^e of La Plata, can no longer ex- pect to monopolize the business of a country whose extent and re- sources are sufficient to support hundreds of flourishing commer- cial towns. The route of the railway to Cordova* has already been surveyed by Mr. Allen Campbell, of the United States, who has had much experience as an engineer in Spanish America, where he enjoys a high reputation. He pronounces it not only practicable, and of- fering a profitable investment of capital, but as one of the most effectual modes of developing the resources of the fruitful provinces of the West, heretofore almost unknown, not only in the trade, but in the geography of the world. It would be an iron bond between the eastern and western provinces not easily severed. There are considerations which would make Rosario, even when approached by sailing vessels, quite as accessible from the Atlantic as Buenos Ayres. The difference of time in loading and dis- charging cargo is decidedly in favor of the former. These diffi- culties at Buenos Ayres are too well known to the commercial community to need from me much illustration. The southeast winds, agitating the wide expanse of the river at that point, pro- duce so high a sea that, during their prevalence, no vessel can ei- ther discharge or receive cargo. * See route of this road on map. 74 EOSAKIO. The winds which create this sea are the fairest for the ascent of the river, and good for the beat down with the current. In forty- eight hours, or less, a vessel with a southerly wind should reach Eosario from the latitude of Buenos Ayres, off Martin Garcia, or any neighboring anchorage. Arrived there, no detention depend- ent upon the winds can occur. With anchor in the stream and breasting-lines upon land, a vessel may be laid near enough to shore to make a plank a safe pathway. With the erection of wharves, the town would be as accessible as any of our commer- cial cities. The Parana, from its mouth to Eosario, is not very tor- tuous, having a general course of N.N.W. The prevailing south wind is, therefore, fair in the ascent throughout this distance. I must not omit to state that such a wind is necessary to all sailing vessels, because the current of two to two and 'a half miles per hour will baffle all efforts to contend with it by beating. The Argentine government, with a view of promoting direct trade, has laid a discriminating duty on all articles imported from or export- ed to Buenos Ayres, which may induce vessels to proceed direct- ly to Eosario for the sale or purchase of cargoes, rather than buy goods encumbered not only with a double export and import, but with the differential duties. In descending the river no detention need ever occur, its width being sufficient to admit of beating down during contrary winds. The trade with Eosario should be carried on in vessels of the class and size of the largest three-masted schooners. This con- struction and rig, which are peculiarly American, will be found well adapted to this river navigation. Such vessels are quickly turned to windward, and easily handled. Experience has shown that this, rig is not incompatible with suitable size or capacity. Their draught of water should not exceed twelve feet when laden, the mean depth on the bar of San Juan, below Martin Garcia, not admitting vessels of a greater draught. During the prevalence of north winds, the depth of water is so diminished as to leave ships, in both inner and outer roads of Bu- enos Ayres, resting on the bottom. These winds, being from the land, produce no sea, therefore vessels are in no danger, although aground. The south winds, fair for the ascent of the river, inva- riably produce a rise of the water, increasing its depth according to their force and duration. The depth of water to which I have alluded on the bar of San Juan is that of the old channel of Mar- tin Garcia. KOSARIO. 75 The new channel, made known, as before stated, by this expe- dition, east of the island, has a greater depth by two feet. The development of this channel has not been hailed by the Buenos Ayreans with the enthusiasm which usually meets all discoveries that may facilitate the trading operations of a country. In de- priving Martin Garcia of its political importance, it obviates the necessity of treaty stipulations with Buenos Ayres for entrance into the upper waters. While engaged upon this work, I have been gratified to learn, by a letter from my esteemed friend, E. B. Forbes, of Boston, that a commercial firm in that city have, with eminent success, become the pioneers to our trade with the interior countries of La Plata. I quote from his letter, alluding to the first shipment that had been made from the United States directly to the port of Kosario. He gives, in a few words, the report of the captain of the vessel to his owners in Boston. The captain says " he got to Eosario without any difficulty, dis- charged his cargo, and got his freight money. That Chistopher Columbus did not excite more curiosity than did the arrival of his vessel ; that goods can be put on board at Eosario from 15 to 20 per cent, cheaper than at the port of Buenos Ayres, and that he expected to bring home some passengers, with means to buy goods, domestics, lumber," &c. This is a beginning, to be followed, I hope, by hearing that the waters of the Parana are covered with vessels bearing the stars and stripes. The right bank of the river from Eosario to the mouth of the Cacarana, a distance of eighteen miles, presents an unbroken and precipitous elevation of from fifty to eighty feet of reddish clay ; beyond this it recedes into the interior; and thence, throughout the extent of the river to its confluence with the Paraguay, the same bank assumes somewhat the appearance of the other. Up to this point the shores are low and marshy, and the course of the river is broken by densely wooded islands of recent formation. We had remained at Eosario, hoping for clear weather, to make observations for latitude and longitude, as it was my habit to es- tablish the positions of all prominent places, independent of the observations that were made nightly whenever the weather would permit. Finding from appearances that we should be unneces- sarily detained, and knowing that I should have subsequent op- portunities of determining this place, we pushed on and anchored 76 SAN LORENZO. THE TERCERO. off the convent of San Lorenzo, about twelve miles above Eosario, on the same range of high land. This is one of the old establishments of the Jesuits, and now held by the Franciscans. Substantially built, like all their struc- tures, it presents a conspicuous but isolated mark on the plateau. The historical associations of this vicinity are full of interest. Before the Jesuits entered upon their missions, Sebastian Cabot, and Ayolas, serving under the banner of what was the then great temporal power of Christendom, charmed with the beauty of the country and the hospitality of the neighboring Indians, had se- lected it for the first settlements of the white race in La Plata, "San Espiritu," and "Corpus Christi." "We were disappointed in our expectations of astronomical ob- servations. My journal says, " September 8th, 10 o'clock A.M., at anchor off San Lorenzo. Temperature of air 49, water 67 ; velocity of current two and a half miles per hour. Last night strong gales from the southeast, with rain ; this morning appear- ances of clearing. Eemained at anchor until 10 o'clock, hoping to get observations for latitude and longitude, but without success. Proceeded on our course, the weather only preventing astronomi- cal observations. This southeast wind has prevailed for several days. Six miles above San Lorenzo the Eiver Cacarana empties into the Parana ; it retains this name only within the province of Santa Fe. From its source in the sierras, it is known as the Ter- cero, and it is joined by the Kiver Cuarto at the distance of one hundred and twenty miles from its confluence with the Parana." I am indebted to Mr. Allen Campbell for the most reliable in- formation relative to this river. In the prosecution of his survey of the route of the railway from Eosario to Cordova, which lay very much along the course of the Tercero, it became necessary for him to make a very thorough examination of it. The inform- ation he was thus enabled to give me precluded the necessity of farther examination than had been previously made by Lieutenant Murdaugh and myself. It was my intention, before meeting Mr. Campbell, from the cursory notice we had made on our land trip from Cordova to Eosario the road occasionally taking us near the river to explore it thoroughly. "We had seen it at its lowest state, when the strength of its current was diminished, but were unable to judge, simply by inspection, of the declivity of its bed through- out a distance of three hundred miles. The examination made by Mr. Campbell left no doubt in my mind of the impracticability of THE PAMPAS. 77 its navigation ; if for no other reason, because of its great declivity two and a half feet to the mile sufficient to produce a current which it would be impossible to overcome during the season of high water. This difference of level is a foot for every inch in the Mississippi. I quote the words of Mr. Campbell. " The ' Tercero' is not navi- gable in its natural state, neither is it susceptible of being made so by artificial means, at least for any practical or useful purpose." It is not unusual to hear the navigability of many of the small rivers of La Plata mentioned as being established, and even to see such statements in books, when no evidences are adduced, nor the names of explorers given in confirmation of such assertions. This has not only been said, but written of the Tercero. In a work upon the country, the author declares that it is navigable from its mouth to the town of Villa Nueva, a distance by the windings of the river of two hundred and fifty miles. Mr. Campbell says, "These ideas are entirely illusory ;" and, as his assertion is based upon reliable data, no better authority could be given. I have no doubt, however, that the same means which once constituted the only mode of transportation downward, on the Mississippi, may be resorted to with success on the Tercero, when immigration and the friction of trade shall have awakened some degree of enterprise among the people, and taught them that time is money. Passing the mouth of the Cacarana, the elevated pampa country of the right, as before stated, recedes gradually to the interior; and not until we have ascended one thousand miles above, on that bank, do we again see high lands, and then not a plateau or elevated pam- pa, but isolated mountains and hillocks from one half of a mile to two miles in length, and rising several hundred feet above the level of the " Gran Chaco" monuments, apparently dropped from the clouds or upheaved by some convulsion of nature in the midst of a vast domain, claimed by the neighboring republics, and divided among them by imaginary lines, but stjll occupied by aboriginal tribes who have never been subjugated or even disturbed by the white race. Between the town of Diamante and Cacarana, a distance of thirty-three miles, the river courses among low islands of recent formation, but wooded, and with an almost impenetrable under- growth. As we ascended at the period of low water, I had an opportunity of observing their formation, which was composed of strata of black argillaceous earth and sand, showing at different 78 RIVER SCENERY. DIAMANTE. periods of inundation the character of the deposit. The bottom of the river, brought up by the lead, was invariably sandy wher- ever it had been subject to the action of the currents ; in slack water it was uniformly muddy. The scenery of this noble river was throughout, to its junction with the Paraguay, imposing and picturesquely beautiful. Islands continue a characteristic feature for many hundred miles, differing only, I observed in ascending, from those of the lower waters in the improved growth of trees, or even greater exuberance of veg- etation. They were enlivened by monkeys, capinchas, and birds of brilliant plumage, and the atmosphere was redolent of the fra- grance of climbers and parasites that enwrapped trunk and branch- es of many a huge tree, their bright floral clusters blending har- moniously with the varied hues of the foliage. The finest gardens of less favored zones would offer but a penury of vegetal beauty when compared with these fair Edens of nature. At Diamante we meet, for the first time, a change in the char- acter of the left bank of the Parana. We are approaching the high and rolling lands of Entre Kios, washed by the windings of the river, above which they rise from ninety to one hundred and fifty feet. On the beginning of this elevation, prettily situated, stands a town or village of about one thousand inhabitants, for- merly known as Punta Gorda, but changed by Urquiza to Dia- mante, or Diamond. In 1852, in preparing for his invasion of Buenos Ayres, which ended with the battle and victory of " Monte Caseres," General Urquiza selected this point of the Parana for the passage of his army. The contraction of the river and the firm lands of the opposite bank in Santa Fe made it the most eligible place for this purpose. The passage of the whole army on boats and rafts was made without the loss of a single man, beast, or charge of ammu- nition. Gratified at his success here, and subsequent victory, Ur- quiza conceived this point of Entre Eios, from which he took his departure, worthy the name which he bestowed upon it. The mildness of the climate, the frequent intersection of the lands in every direction by small rivers, and the absence of ferries and bridges, oblige the people of the country to become expert swimmers. The gaucho, stripped to the loins, springs into the water with his horse, as if it were the natural element of both ; holding the animal by the mane, he swims alongside, guiding him by an occasional slap on the head, and encouraging him by deaf- LEFT BANK OF THE PARANA. 79 ening yells and whoops. In the few places where ferries are es- tablished, canoes are provided, which the traveler enters, holding his horse by the bridle. The canoe is guided by the ferry -man, but carried over by the direct power of the horse swimming along- side. Diamante is an important place for steamers ascending the riv- er. There, for the first time, will be found excellent fuel, the wood of the lowlands and islands being unfit for this purpose. On the firm lands of Entre Eios are found the algarroba and es- pinilla, trees of slow growth ; the former attains, with age, a great size ; both are remarkable for their solidity, and afford the best fuel for steamers, one cord being fully equal to a ton of coals. There are several other woods scarcely inferior to these, all of which skirt the river courses only ; they never, in the lower paral- lels of La Plata, grow in extended forests. CHAPTER Y. Left Bank of the Parana. Survey made by Lieutenant Powell. Climbing the Tree. Victoria. Descending the Parana Cito. Puerto de los Bues. Guala- guay. El Puerto de Ybicui. A Canal. Paciencia. Physical Changes. The Colastine. Capella de San Jose. Santa Fe. The Chaco. Its Inhabitants. Parana. Bajada. Progress. Pine Lumber. Commercial Prospects. Cedar. Surface Soil. Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report. Plan of Parana. Buildings and Population. River Banks. Estancia of an Englishman. Feliciana. La Paz. The Jefe de Politica and the Curate. Fuel. Pass of San Juan. Course of the River. Sullivan's Charts. Wild Fowl. The Espinilla. -Capibaras or Capinchas.-j-Locusts. Catching a Deer. Riacho Caraguatay. Riacho San Geronimo. Goya. Capincha Chase. Bella Vista. Productions. Fishing. Tobacco Island. Hunting for Specimens. Taquari Chico. An Orange Estan- cia. The Camilote. Arrival at Corrientes. Visit to the Governor. Visit from the Governor. City of Corrientes. Easy Navigation of the River. Fine Woods for Fuel. Resources of the River Provinces. Table of Distances. CONSIDERING Diamante as the apex of the Delta of the Parana, I have, up to this point, given a sketch of its right bank. I will now endeavor to give some idea of the left, which, in ascending, was rarely visible from the Water Witch. I shall quote, in part, from the journal of [Lieutenant Powell, who, at a subsequent pe- riod of the exploration, surveyed the eastern branches of the Parana, skirting the shore of Entre Rios. This was done in a small steamer, La Yerba, of two feet draught, which I chartered from the " United States and Paraguay Company" for the pur- ON/VERSITY 80 THE TIMBO. THE PAKANA CITO. pose of exploring the Salado and other tributaries inaccessible to our " ocean steamer." On the left bank, the branches which leave the main river, be- tween Eosario and Diamante, are the Parbon, Timbo, and Parana Cito. To ascertain their navigability through a very interesting part of Entre Eios was the object of the work assigned to Lieu- tenant Powell. Leaving Diamante and proceeding south, he found the mouth of the Parana Cito obstructed by snags, and, descending the main river a short distance, he entered the Timbo, which, though nar- row from fifteen to twenty -five yards maintained throughout a depth of from nine to twelve feet. He followed it in its mazy windings through the alluvial soil of the Delta to its junction with the Parana Cito. To obtain a distinct view of the country, and satisfy himself as to what course he should take among the numerous branches which spread off in every direction, he brought into requisition an accomplishment of his juvenile days, and climbed the highest tree he could find. His examination determined him to follow up the Parana Cito, which has a width of from forty to sixty feet, and a depth of from eighteen to ninety -five, to a point called Tres Bocas "Three Mouths," where, entering a branch called Yictoria, and ascending it half a mile, he came to the Puerto de los Sauses "Port of the Willows," where there were several small craft discharging and taking in cargo. This is the port of the town of Victoria. I now quote from his journal. " The position of Puerto de los Sauses was established by obser- vation, the church in the town of Victoria bearing '-north three and a half miles distant. Situated on the top of the elevated ridge which bounds the Delta, it is a flourishing place of about four thousand inhabitants, and has a considerable trade in hides, wool, and lime. I found it impossible to procure reliable statis- tics of this, as well as of other ports of the province ; and, having made the same inquiry at Parana subsequently, was told 'the government had not, as yet, been able to procure any such in- formation.' " As the Yerba was the first steamer, and the flag she bore the first of our nation that had appeared in those waters, we were soon honored by a number of visitors. In visiting the govern- ment officials, and in the exchange of courtesies with the inhab- itants, we made many agreeable acquaintances, and hope we left PUERTO DE LA CRUZ. GUALAGUAY. 31 as many pliant reminiscences of their fellow- Americans of the North." Eetracing their steps through the Victoria into the Parana Cito, at the distance of eleven and a half miles from Tres Bocas, they found the Puerto de la Cruz "Port of the Cross," where it is necessary, during the periods of very low water, to ship and dis- charge. At the distance of nine miles from the last place is Puer- to del Kubio " Eed Port," situated, like La Cruz, on a range of twenty feet elevation. Vessels whose cargoes are for and from Victoria discharge and load at these ports when the state of the river will not permit them to proceed higher. At the season of high water, vessels of ten feet ascend within one mile of Victoria. In descending the Parana Cito to its junction with the Parbon, a distance from Victoria of about seventy-five miles, they passed through a beautiful rolling country, covered with estancias and fine herds of cattle and horses. They saw occasionally patches of espinilla and tala, both excellent fuel for steamers. A short distance below the confluence of the Parana Cito with the Parbon the latter is contracted to the width of about two hundred yards. Here Rosas, in the year 1845, during his difficulties with England and France, threw a chain across, to obstruct the ascent of the river. At a distance of ten miles from this point the steamer entered the Gualaguay Eiver, which was ascended for twenty miles to El Puerto de los Bues. This river passes through a beautiful country, and some of the most valuable lands of Entre Rios ; it was sparsely wooded with algarroba and espinilla, and the estancias on both sides had herds of cattle and horses. At El Puerto de los Bues, the port of Gua- laguay, several vessels were discharging and loading cargo. In consequence of the low state of the water, he was unable to reach El Puerto de los Barillos, the port immediately at the town, which, by the course of the river, is eighteen miles distant from El Pu- erto de los Bues. Ascending to within six miles of the town, but finding the water falling, Mr. Powell thought it advisable to return to the latter port, whose position he determined by observations, from which he es- tablished that of Gualaguay, bearing N.N.E., and distant six miles. Gualaguay is larger than Victoria, having five or six thousand in- habitants. It has a lively trade in hides, wool, timber, and fire- wood ; the former the product of the herds and flocks of one of the best grazing districts of the province, the latter from the 6 82 HOSPITALITY. A CANAL. abundant growth of the espinilla and algarroba. In the effort to procure statistical information, he encountered the same difficulties as at Yictoria. "La Yerba," says Lieutenant Powell, "continued to be an ob- ject of great interest, notwithstanding her distance from the town six miles. No mark of hospitality was omitted, and every fa- cility was afforded in procuring provisions and wood. On visiting the town and calling on the government officials, we were re- ceived with every mark of hospitality by the family of the com- mandante, he being at the time unwell, and, in a walk through the town, were shown by the Jefe Politico the lions of4he place, most prominent among which was the cafe, lighted with gas, the only gas-light at this time in 'the Argentine Confederation, and the work of an enterprising Italian, the proprietor of the cafe." Eeturning into the Parbon, and descending thirty-one miles, he touched at El Puerto de Ybicui, a port established for the conven- ience of the neighboring estancieros, and having its custom-house business conducted in Gualaguay. There are several ranches here, but it is not known as a village. I think its importance has been exaggerated by giving its name, as on Captain Sullivan's charts, to the "Parbon" from this place to its junction with the Parana, a distance of ten miles. Ybicui is not recognized as the name of this branch by the inhabitants of either of the towns above men- tioned. It is common for the pilots and people of the country to speak of the Parana Cito from the point at which it branches off from the Parana, near Diamante, to Yictoria, as the " Eiacho Yic- toria," but I have confined this latter name to the riacho* which courses off from the Parana Cito, and on which is the town of Yictoria. On entering the, Parana Gruazu through the Parbon, Mr. Powell had an opportunity of examining a miniature piece of canaliza- tion, executed by an enterprising citizen for the purpose of facil- itating a charcoal and wood business, which he carried on to a considerable extent with Buenos Ayres. Near the island Biscaino the main river is separated from Las Palmas by a narrow strip of land of about seventy-five yards. Senor Mercadel, the person al- luded to, by way of avoiding a circuit of fifteen miles, one half of which would be against the current, has nearly completed a cut of ten feet width and depth through this narrow strip of land, by which he will be enabled to pass from the main river into Las * Riacho, stream. Riachuelo, small stream or creek. THE KIVER BANKS. gg Palmas, feeling assured that in giving the current an inch it would take an ell, and very soon open a channel of sufficient capacity for the largest vessel in the trade. Having traced out those arms of the Parana through which a very interesting portion of Entre Kios , is approached, and desig- nated the different points accessible to navigation at periods of high and low water, I proceed with my narrative of the river courses from Diamante upward. I have shown that here for the first time we have in full view from the channel both sides of the river. The left now assumes the character which has up to this point distinguished the right. It is formed by the high land of Entre Eios, and is even more ele- vated than the right bank up to Diamante ; it is an undulating pampa, skirted on the river by a noble growth of timber. The country on this side of the Parana for four hundred and forty miles, ascending, bounds parts of the provinces of Entre Eios and " Cor- rientes," and affords throughout an abundant supply of fuel. The inhabitants will contract to furnish it for steamers, placing it at suitable points easy of access. Intervening islands intercept, at intervals, the view of the main land; but, wherever it is washed by the main river, estancias and settlements are to be -seen upon its borders. The course of the river, winding among islands from Diamante to Paciencia, a dis- tance of twenty-two miles, is north; there it turns nearly at right angles to the east. Its name admonishes those ascending in sail- ing craft, dependent exclusively on the winds, to be patient. There are instances of vessels having been detained here for weeks. Among the physical changes which were occurring during our work in these waters, one of the most important was at this point. The Eiacho Paracan (which will not only reduce the distance, but make what was a circuitous route a straight line) was doubtless becoming the main channel. Its depth had very much increased previously to our leaving the river. During the latter days of our work, in rounding the point of Paciencia, it was discovered that in the main channel the depth had become reduced from twenty- seven to eighteen feet, and that a new and deeper channel had broken through the flat which separated the main land from the island of Paracan, passing east of the island of " Toro." The Colastine here unites with the Parana. About thirty miles above it branches off from the main river, and, pursuing a very winding course, receives, among other minor streams, the waters 84 RINCON. SANTA FE. of the Santa Fe, which is a continuation of the Salado, although much of the water of this latter river finds its way into the Parana through the shallow "riacho" called Coronda, which is only navi- gable for very small craft. The Colastine retains at low water a depth of not less than eleven feet, and throughout a width of from one hundred to two hundred and fifty yards. It receives, at a short distance from its branching off from the Parana, through the nar- row creek called Cayesta, the waters of a lake of the same name, which, from the immediate vicinity of Santa Fe, extends north about ten miks with a width of three. The country bordering on the Colastind to the west, and extend- ing for many miles north of the town of Santa Fe", is known as Rincon, " Corner." It is a narrow strip of rolling land,-bounded on the west by Lake Cayesta, and on the east by the Colastine ; is well populated, highly fertile, and furnishes the market with large supplies of vegetables. The Capilla de San Jose " Chapel of St. Joseph" is prettily sit- uated on the right bank of the Colastine, about twenty miles north of Santa Fe. This chapel and a few adobe houses form the north- ern limit of civilized occupation bordering on the Chaco. There is north of Eincon a settlement of demi-civilized Indians who will permit no direct trade or intercourse between their more savage brethren and the white traders, but act as their brokers in the exchange of arrow-heads, knives, hatchets, beads, etc., for the skins of animals brought in from " El Gran Chaco." The town of Santa Fe (latitude 31 38 / 34" S., longitude 60 39' 48" W.) is placed upon a peninsula formed by the River Sa- lado, on the west and south, and the Santa Fe' on the east, the latter, as I have shown, being only a continuation of the former. In abandoning the old city of the same name, founded by De Garay and eighty-four followers in 1573, on the borders of the Lake Cayesta, in latitude 31, the inhabitants selected the site of the present town from the admirable natural defenses it seemed to present against the inroads of the savages ; also for the communi- cation it offered by the Salado with the settlements of the interior. Their expectations were not realized. Although almost an island, few towns of the Parana have suffered more from Indian aggres- sion. It stands upon the verge of their vast domain, " El Chaco," which, from here, borders the river on the west, embracing an extent of twelve degrees of latitude. With the Salado as its southern, the Parana and Paraguay its THE CHACO. PAKANA. 85 eastern boundaries, the Chaco covers an area of two hundred thousand square miles. Partitioned by imaginary lines among neighboring governments, it is yet in possession of hordes of in- hospitable Indians, acknowledging allegiance to no power but that of caciques, who rule their respective tribes with an authority both unlimited and unquestioned. Neither intercourse with the whites nor time has dissipated, among the more warlike Indians of the Chaco, a deep feeling of hostility for the wrongs endured by their race. They manifest it by continual inroads upon the bor- der settlements, occasionally carrying off prisoners and committing the most atrocious crimes. Generally, however, these incursions are merely, predatory in their character, leaving the estancias mi- nus fine herds of cattle, sheep, horses, etc. We have before alluded to the agricultural tribes. Experience has shown that from this class of Indians may be derived the most valuable aid in bringing the country under cultivation. On the western borders of the "Chaco" they have been employed by the estancieros, and found highly efficient as laborers and herdsmen. They do not abandon their homes or habits, but, after the crops are seeded or gathered in, return to their families, carrying with them the proceeds of tneir labors. Under kind and judicious treatment, and with the protection of just laws, a useful popula- tion could be formed from these tribes, and the Argentine States would do well to adopt the policy of Brazil in trading with the savages bordering upon their territory. The Parana maintains an easterly course from the Banco de Paciencia for fifteen miles, intermediate between which two points is the city of Parana, the capital of the Argentine Confedera- tion, one mile from the Bajada, or "Landing," the name orig- inally held by the city. The Bajada was ascertained by a series of observations to be in latitude 31 42' 54" south, and longitude 60 32' 39" west. It was founded in 1730 by colonists from Santa Fe, who, having been driven from this place by the Paya- gua and Munos Indians, retired to the spot now occupied in the capital by the Plaza primer o de Mayo " The Square of the 1st of May." Here they intrenched themselves, constructed a few huts and a small fort, and succeeded in maintaining this position until sufficient accessions to their numbers were made to enable them to act on the offensive against their savage neighbors. They nearly annihilated the Munos ; and the Payaguas, unable to cope alone with them, ceased their hostile incursions. Under the Con- 86 GEOWTH OF PARANA. federation of 1852, it was made the seat of the general govern- ment ; since which, up to 1855, its population has trebled. Parana is not advantageously placed as a commercial city, and its trade, except for imports, is of little value. The construction of a mole and wharves would give facilities to lading and discharg- ing cargo which it does not naturally possess. ' The exports of the province of Entre Kios are mainly from the ports on the Par- bon and the Uruguay, in the vicinity of which are the most val- uable estancias. The lands around the capital are not so well adapted to agriculture as those of other parts of the province, but they are undoubtedly -rich, and the rapid increase of the popula- tion will soon cause them to be industriously cultivated. > We could scarcely realize the change in the aspect of the town between 1853 and 1855, the period of the arrival and departure of the expedition. When we first visited it, a noiseless inertion seemed to pervade all things; before our departure, the construc- tion, not only of government buildings, but of fine private dwell- ings,' gave it an air of bustle and life quite " American." The saw and hammer were busily plied in every street, and they were preparing for use, not only' the hard woods of the country, but American pine. Even in the short period which had elapsed since the opening of the rivers, this lumber had worked its way six hundred miles in the interior, not only against the currents of the river, but the prejudices of the people, who previously im- agined no woods, for any purpose, equal to their own. Pine was not only extensively applied for doors and window-sashes, but, as flooring, was actually superseding tile and brick. It must be remembered that only three years had elapsed since the opening of these waters to commerce, and as yet there was no direct trade with the United States. This lumber had paid not only import duty at Parana, but both import and export duty at Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, and yet was sold here with profit. It can therefore be well understood how much our merchants would gain by a direct trade, in their own ships, with Eosario or Parana, where their cargoes will be subject to but one import duty before they get into the hands of the consumer. I hazard noth- ing in saying that I believe the trade in lumber to those interior provinces of La Plata will be one of considerable importance to this country. The growth of Eosario and Parana in three years is not sur- passed by the strides of some of our western cities. The rise in THE LUMBER TRADE. 37 the value of real estate, the demand for houses caused b j the in- creased population, seem to promise a permanent prosperity, which will make their trade of great value to those who may secure it. It undoubtedly sounds like "sending coals to Newcastle" to write so confidently of a remunerative trade in lumber which must make a voyage of six thousand miles, and then go up stream from four to six hundred miles into the interior of a country which, but a short distance above where I would land it, boasts of the supe- riority of its woods over those of the world. For some purposes, the superiority of South American timber will remain unquestioned, that is, for parts of ship-building where hard and durable woods are requisite ; for cabinet-work, where fineness of texture is essential; and for joists and beams of build- ings, where heavy woods could be advantageously applied ; but neither pine nor its equivalent has yet been discovered.* The cedar is applied to purposes approaching most nearly to our use of it, and grows abundantly in Paraguay and the northwestern provinces of the Argentine Confederation, Tucuman, Santiago, and Salta. It attains to a great size, with a trunk of such height as to afford planks of the greatest required length. I saw one of four feet diameter, but was told they often exceeded six. The price of one-inch boards of cedar^-the only wood ever sawed by them in that way at Asuncion, was twelve and a half cents the foot. Harder woods, squared for joists, beams, etc., measuring from eight to ten inches throughout their length, could not be bought at Cor- rientes for less than seventy -five cents the vara thirty-four inches. It needs no extraordinary calculation to show that American pine can, at least for some years until enterprise and industry have introduced greater facilities in sawing compete successfully with these woods at their own market ; and its superiority for cer- tain uses is apparent. I purchased pine boards at Corrientes, and "paid twelve and a half cents the foot. This lumber had been re- shipped for the latter port, and saddled with all the expenses of import and export duty to which I have before alluded. The plateau upon which the city of Parana stands is a continu- ation of the high lands of the left bank, first seen at Diamante. They present an interesting subject of study to the geologist. I give in his own language the result of an examination made by * There is a tree called the Pino alluded to by some of the old writers as being found in the upper waters of the Parana, but its description does not correspond with that of ours, and it has not been brought into use. 88 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. an eminent scientific man, Dr. Martin de Moussy, employed by the government to make a geological survey of the country : " This vegetable earth (the surface soil) has in considerable quan- tities oxyd of iron and magnesia, which give it a dark yellow or violet appearance. It is unctuous to the touch, because of a cer- tain quantity of clay which it contains. It readily receives, and as readily gives out moisture. Beneath this is a reddish-yellow argillaceous stratum, containing a quantity of oxyd of iron ; it is of the same character as that of the pampas and the borders of the River La Plata, called by D'Orbigny and Darwin Limo Pampero ' pampa mud.' In this stratum, which is diluvium, are found nu- merous fossils of mammiferous animals of a class now extinct the Megatherium, Glyptodon, Milodon which are abundant in the foscas, a compact calcareous clay in the lower part of the river. We are not aware that any such fossils have been found in Entre Bios, but we confidently believe .they maybe. The third stratum, counting from the surface, is calcareous. This bank, which begins at Diamante, and extends northeast to a distance unknown, con- tains great quantities of shells ; nevertheless, there are points at which they disappear altogether. Above the city the calcareous bank is less shelly, but, in consequence of its mixture with sand, it approaches the character of chalk, having at the same time a harder consistency. " The thickness of this stratum is from six to eighteen feet. The lower part rests on a stratum of potters' earth, beneath which is a perfect sandy limestone, useless in the production of lime, but excellent as a building-stone. This sandy limestone contains no shells. At different points northeast of the rising ground of ' Man- ga' the carbonate of lime has undergone a remarkable change into sulphate of lime or gypsum, which is found in large quantities, beautifully crystallized. " The fourth stratum is pure clay, containing in parts small al- ternating veins of ferruginous sand, 'argillaceous marl, and minute particles of shells. It is exceedingly variable in its form and thick- ness. Considering it in an industrial point of view, this stratum becomes an interesting subject of study in connection with the art of pottery. It contains the best material for the manufacture of the finest as well as the common china, and for the making of bricks and square tiles, for which there is great demand at all times in Parana and towns on the river. Potters' clay of extreme fineness is found in great abundance ; it is unctuous to the touch, CITY OF PAKANA. 39 and may be used with success as ' fullers' earth.' An argillaceous marl, perfectly white, forms in the midst of these strata perpendic- ular vejns, which have a very singular effect contrasted with the horizontal veins of red and yellow ferruginous sand. Finally, the fifth stratum consists entirely of a yellowish-green sand." The plan of the city of Parana is a quadrangle, divided into squares of one hundred and fifty yards, the streets intersecting each other at right angles. The principal public buildings are the governor's palace a plain house, but in good taste ; several churches one of which, San Miguel, has been fifteen years in course of construction, and is yet unfinished ; and a pretty theatre. The new houses are all of brick, plastered and whitewashed, with azoteas, which afford a pleasant place for evening resort and the flirtation of the senoritas, or even for a promenade ; families sometimes visiting each other by these airy passages. I missed, however, the miradores, or turrets, which are so gay and orna- mental, and to be found on almost all the better class of dwell- ings in Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. In Parana they would afford an extended view of a beautiful country, embracing in one direction the city of Santa Fe. The theatre contains two tiers of boxes, is sufficiently commodious, and the decorations are in good taste. The gardens are numerous and well arranged. The fruits orange, peach, pomegranate, fig, grape are excellent, and their rich foliage contrasts pleasantly with the whitewashed walls of the dwellings. [^In 1855 the city contained eight thousand souls, and the popu- lation was rapidly increasing." 1 In addition to its kilns, which sup- ply the towns of La Plata with quantities of lime, there are near it extensive tanneries, where the barks of the "cascara" and "tim- bo Colorado" are used ; the latter is also excellent fuel for steamers. An admirable road is being constructed from the city to the port a work of some labor, as it grades an ascent of one hundred and fifty feet. [Associating, as we are apt to do, stagnation or a retro- grade movement with all things in the interior of South America, the healthful, progressive aspect of Parana is not less pleasing than astonishing."^ " We have made observations for latitude and longitude, also for height of bank, which was found to be one hundred and twenty- four feet ; also observations with the micrometer for the width of the river, which is here sixteen hundred and forty yards, the ve- locity of the current being three miles the hour. Six miles above 90 CHAPITAN. FELICIANA. LA PAZ. Parana the river takes a general direction of N.E., the sinuosities of the channel, caused by numerous islands, .making the only de- viation from this course, which it maintains up to Piragua, a dis- tance of about eighty miles. The character of the river, its shores and islands, remain unchanged up to this point, the high, firm lands of the left bank range from one hundred to one hundred and sixty feet above the water, and are washed throughout this distance by the main river, except at three points, where it is broken by islands. At Chapitan Island, seventeen miles above Parana, we saw, for the first time, detached masses of coarse brown sandstone. . Here the islands of the Parana afford excellent fuel for steamers, which may be had for the trouble of cutting it. "Above, but near Chapitan, is the estancia of an Englishman, which runs for twenty miles along the river. The improvements around the dwelling, the wire fence protecting well-cultivated grounds, gave the impression that, with the enjoyment of an un- rivaled climate, this estanciero had brought around him all the. order and comfort of a British homestead. Three miles beyond we passed the point where the Colastine branches off from the Parana, and, anchoring off the lower end of the islands Tres Cruces ''Three Crosses,' obtained observations for latitude and longi- tude. " Thirty -five miles above begins the bank of Feliciana. It ex- tends twenty-two miles, and is broken only by some small streamSj among which are the Arroyos -Gonzales, Hondo, and Yerde, which take their rise within the province of Entre Eios. Its strata of limestone, white clay, sand, and yellow clay, retain a re- markable uniformity of depth throughout to Piragua Point ; and though the bank is broken, as alluded to, it reappears with the same formation in the continuation of the range. " Three miles beyond the last point at which observations were obtained there is in mid-channel an isolated ledge of rocks three feet below the surface at low water, and yet there is no appear- ance on either shore of any such formation. It does not, however, in the least impede navigation, the channel being wide on each side, with a depth of ninety-six feet. "La Paz is a village of two hundred inhabitants; made obser- vations to determine its position ; it is just within the boundary- line which separates Corrientes and Entre Kios a miserable place! The buildings all of adobe ; not even a plaza, the pride and de- light of Spanish villages. It contains a chapel of adobe, the bel- LA PAZ. SAN JUAN. 91 fry, formed of a piece of timber laid across x two upright posts, boasts three bells, which make a pleasant chime; and summon the people to morning and evening prayer. I called on the highest dignitary of the place, the ' Gefe de Politica.' After the usual offers of civility, cigars were passed round; took leave, and called on the second dignitary, the curate, who was a native of Madrid, and had only been in the country nine months. He was hand- some, intelligent, and polished, and seemed contented in the dis- charge of his duties as pastor -to these simple people. He had a garden, the only one of La Paz, and in it he had brought to per- fection a limited variety of vegetables, among which was the cauliflower, the finest I have ever seen'; but his success had not stimulated the villagers to a similar experiment. The people live on beef every day of the year, and every year of their lives, and care too little for fruits and vegetables to begin their culti- vation. " The pastures of this neighborhood are very fine ; the horses and horned cattle of the surrounding country celebrated. The growth of wood is not confined to the borders of the main river, but extends for some distance into the interior, and skirts all the small streams that find an outlet into the Parana. . By agreement with the people of the country, an abundant supply may be ob- tained for steamers. " Senor Antonio Descalso supplied the "Water Witch, and would gladly enter into similar contracts. This port is not unlike that of Parana Bajada with this advantage, that the shore may be more nearly approached. A chain of low sandy islands between the channel and the main land protects it from the strength of the current. As the anchorage was good, we 'cast off' the coal-hulk, which had been thus far in tow of the Water Witch from Monte- video, secured her here as our coal depot, and, having made the usual observations, proceeded on our voyage up the river. " Three and a half miles from La Paz we reached the pass of San Juan, and found a depth of but ten feet water, caused by nu- merous islands, which extend for some distance, and form various channels, making this the most difficult pass we encountered, and subsequently ascertained it to be the worst in the river. Howev- er, a shoal with a depth of ten feet at low water can scarcely be considered a serious obstacle in river navigation. San Juan is four hundred and forty-five miles from Buenos Ayres. Up to this place the least depth we had obtained was fourteen feet ; and it is 92 CHANGES OF CHANNEL. fair to infer that at this time the Water Witch was not in the chan- nel, for but one or two casts of the lead gave so little water." In this neighborhood the officers had fine opportunities of show- ing their skill as sportsmen. We were now dependent upon guns and fishing-lines for a supply of fresh provisions ; and so teeming with animal life was both land and water, that the mess-table, was not only abundantly supplied with delicious game and fish, but, with encouraging success, we added to our collections in natural history. Near La Paz, Lieutenant Amen brought down a fine swan ; it was our first, and secured as a specimen. The Perdiz grande large partridge, Pavo del Monte wild turkey, or turkey of the woods, and the Gallina del Monte wild hen, were found in quantities, and would be esteemed as delicacies on a Lucullian table; but, forced to live upon them for some weeks, we would gladly have exchanged them for a good butcher's joint.' From latitude 30 44' 8", four miles beyond La Paz, the general course of the river is north up to 29 11' south, ninety-three miles by difference of latitude, and ninety-eight by the sinuosities of the channel ; a remarkable directness, its windings, differing from a right line only five miles. At this point, Vuelta del Norte " Bend of the North," the river, as if wearied of a direct course, winds about in a most extraordinary manner, now north, here south, through sixteen points of the compass. Among the islands which cause the shallow channels of San Juan, numerous changes are constantly taking place. This may be discovered by comparing the charts of Captain Sullivan, E. N., who made, in 1847, a running survey of the Parana to Corrientes, with the charts of our expedi- tion, the surveys for which were made in 1853 and 1854. Not only the channels, but the -appearance of the river were in some places materially changed. Islands have been enlarged, others reduced in size; some have disappeared altogether, and their po- sitions, as marked upon his chart, are now, in some instances, the channel of the river. The track of the Water Witch at the lower pass of San Juan passes directly over the position of an island marked on Sullivan's charts. This proves nothing wrong in his surveys ; but it is an interesting fact, showing the remarkable phys- ical changes constantly produced by the action of the currents, which, if watched and studied with care, would doubtless develop some interesting law of nature governing and controlling the move- ment of these waters. CAPINCHAS. LOCUSTS. 93 On leaving -La Paz, we had -on the left bank the province of Corrientes, on the right " El gran Chaco." In latitude 30 20', the Biver Espinilla, an unimportant stream, that takes its rise in the province of Corrientes, disembogues in the Parana ; and near this place we saw two capibaras or capinchas on the bank, which our carbines soon enabled us to secure as specimens. They were male and female; the former weighing one hundred pounds, and meas- uring in length three feet seven and a half inches ; the female nine- ty-one pounds, and three feet seven inches in length. It seems to form a link between the hare and the hog, having the mouth and teeth of the former, and the head, skin, and hair of the latter. A thick membrane unites four toes on the fore, and three on the hind foot, making them semi- web-footed. The male may be distinguish- ed from the female by a horny protuberance of an inch and a half on the nose. Both have a similar prominence on each hind leg from three to four inches in length. It feeds on vegetables, and is never seen at any distance from a lake or river, into which it dash- es at full speed when pursued ; sometimes precipitating itself from banks of twenty feet elevation, and diving under the water, where it will remain for several minutes. When not in motion, it is in- variably seen in a sitting posture, and its inactive, clumsy move- ments on land would make it an easy prey to the jaguar, did not its instinct teach it to seek protection in the water. The flesh of this animal is similar in appearance to that of the hog, and, had we not been supplied with such abundance of game and fish, we might have regarded it as a delicacy ; it was served up by some of the men at their messes, and its savory odor made it quite a tempting dish. " September 6th. Atmosphere clear, sky cloudless. Witnessed an extraordinary spectacle. I called the pilot's attention to a black cloud in the northeast which seemed to be rapidly approaching. Eyeing it attentively for a minute through the telescope, he pro- nounced it a swarm of locusts. They came at last in myriads, darkening the air. Some fell on deck, or were caught by the rig- ging and spars. They were migrating from a part of the country which they had denuded of all vegetation, to new fields or orchards destined to share the same fate." Subsequently, in Paraguay, I had an opportunity of witnessing their destructive power. A swarm took possession of an orange grove, which in a short time was left as leafless as the orchards of northern latitudes in mid- winter. The young locusts, before they make their first flight, are the most 94 DEER CHASE destructive. Fortunately, for the labors of man would be of little avail did a contrary law prevail, these visitations are not frequent or even annual; the inhabitants of the country, from observation of the habits of these insects, know when they may expect to suf- fer from their ravages. The beginning of October is the season at which they usually appear. They swarm in myriads, having the appearance, as we saw them, of a dark, threatening cloud ; and on their approach, a number of persons collect, who, with whoops, yells, and deafening noises, sometimes succeed in driving away the plague ; but should they settle upon a tract of uncultivated land in the vicinity, it is then well understood that the surrounding vege- tation will suffer. They deposit their eggs ; in December the young locusts appear, and before the first flight in February, spread over neighboring orchards and fields, feeding continuously for several weeks. My journal reminds me that this is the first night we have suf- fered from musquitoes, but we are well supplied with nets and bars. "September 7th. No longer in sight of the high lands of Corrien- tes. The course of the river is interrupted by numberless and nameless islands, also the mouths of various riachos, some of which course through the firm lands on the left bank before again unit- ing with the main river, thus .affording convenient access to the estancias. In latitude 29 50',,atKiachoTimbo, got one cast of the lead often feet, there being immediately below and above it a depth of fourteen and twenty-one feet. I designate only the shal- lowest points of the river, which call for vigilance on the part of the pilot. Throughout, with these exceptions, the invariable depth was from twenty to seventy feet. At Paso Patil it is again divided into many branches. Here we found a depth of but ten feet." "While in the act of anchoring to ascertain the direction of the channel, we saw a deer swimming majestically from the east to the west bank. It offered an occasion not only of securing a specimen, but fine sport for officers and men. A boat was soon engaged in the chase, which was kept up for some time with great spirit, and infinitely to the amusement of those looking on from the "Water Witch. Its movements and speed were wonderful, calling forth our admiration as it turned first to the left, then to the right, or again dashed forward, but evading capture by the most skillful manoeuvres. As we were anxious to secure it alive, that its skin might be preserved perfect, the chances of escape for the noble an : imal were great. The lasso, thrown in gaucho style, at last did its THE DEER. EIACHO CAKAGUATAY. 95 work ; a desperate struggle then commenced, but was soon ended by a skillful blow dealt d la matador by one of the party. Because of its enormous size, it was with difficulty gotten into the boat. It weighed two hundred and sixty-eight pounds, and measured in length eighty inches without the tail ; around the body forty-eight inches, and forty -four in height. Its color was a reddish-brown, hair long and thick ; in many points answering to the guazu pucu of Azara, but again there were striking peculiarities in which they differed widely. There was a remarkable cavity of three fourths of an inch under each eye, emitting a powerful odor of musk ; also a cheese-like substance of most offensive smell on each side of the upper jaw, in a sack, with a conduit into the nostrils. The people of the country told us that, to make the flesh of this deer palatable, it was necessary to cut out these offensive parts before life was ex- tinct. We had no opportunity of making the experiment, but a saddle of this specimen, served up in good style at our table, set at defiance the keenest appetite, so strongly did it savor of musk. We were also told that, as a means of defense when pursued, it exhales, at intervals of a few seconds, an odor so offensive as to deter both men and dogs from the chase. We know that nature provides some animals with a similar power of protection, and it is not improbable, that this species of deer may possess it; but in its pursuit, which was on water, this peculiarity was not perceived by the party from the Water Witch. Fifteen miles above, we anchored to examine the Paso Patil, lat- itude 29 15 / . We passed the junction of the Eiacho Caraguatay, which branches off from the main river thirteen miles by its course, but in a right line five. It takes its name from an aloe (so called by the Guarani Indians), which, in treating of Paraguay, I shall de- scribe. It is there found in great abundance ; is one of the most valuable indigenous products of that rich country, and will doubt- less become, in course of time, an article of trade. We had advanced two miles when we passed the mouth of the Eiacho San Geronimo, flowing into the Parana from the Chaco. It branches off from the main river seventeen miles above, and is named from a Jesuit establishment, formed at that point in 1748, among the celebrated Apibones. Not a vestige of it remains, al- though it numbered at one period four hundred and eighty souls. The river here makes the Yuelta del Nbrte, to which I have al- luded, and describes an S ; then takes a direction of N.N.E., which it maintains to latitude 28 40' south, and thence, to the town of 96 GOYA. Corrientes, the general course of north. The country is low on both sides up to latitude 29 01 ' south, when the firm lands again have an elevation of forty feet. Sixteen miles, by the course of the river, from the Yuelta del Norte, we anchored off the mouth of the Goya, on which is situated a town of the same name three miles above; at the season of low water vessels of more than four feet draught can not make a nearer approach. | I visited the authorities of Goya, and received the usual civilities, which every native of this country, however humble his position or deficient in education, knows how to offer in the most pleasing mannerj* The town has 7000 inhabitants, and possesses considerable trade. It is an outlet for the products of a fine back-country the in- terior of Corrientes which receives, in return, supplies of mer- chandise. There is nothing prepossessing in the appearance of Goya, or the immediate surrounding country; it is low, and the pastures are less rich than those of other parts of the province. Civil wars have left their desolating mark upon this part of Cor- rientes. Cattle have been destroyed, and the people diverted from agricultural and pastoral pursuits to. fighting among themselves. A happier system will doubtless prevail under the existing Con- federation. Even at this time, the trade in hides and tallow is very considerable. Having accomplished our business in the town, in descending the river to the Water Witch, we saw two capinchas seated upon the bank. They allowed the boat to approach with- in half of its length, when, with the grunt of a hog, they dashed into the thicket. The boat's crew were soon in pursuit, but had scarcely entered the bushes at different points, when the animals bounded forth, and precipitated themselves into the river. With some management, the capincha might easily be secured on land, as its movements are awkward and slow. Each man, on this oc- casion, thought that .another had allowed the game to escape ; but all had some sport, and a capincha chase will doubtless serve as the foundation for a long yarn in their next man-of-war cruise. The usual observations were made to determine the position of the mouth of the Goya. We had ascended about eight miles, where the left bank of the river attains an elevation of from forty to one hundred and twenty feet, which continues unbroken to the town of Bella Yista, in lati- tude 28 29' south, longitude 59 07' 02" west. On this range are some fine estancias. The dwellings on these estates are generally BELLA VISTA. PEODUCTIONS. 97 of adobe, thatched, with neither gardens nor ornamented grounds about them, but lovely orange-groves. These are not only profit- able, but the delicious shade they afford renders them the favorite resort for the siesta. On the right bank the lands of the Chaco rise from twelve to fifteen feet, and continue at this height for some miles, when they are again broken by low islands. This elevation characterizes generally the banks of the Parana and Paraguay throughout the Chaco. Twenty miles above Goya we found a remarkable change in the channel from the west to the east of the island of Tunas. It thence skirts the left bank until within a few miles of Bella Vista, where its course is again broken by a number of islands. Two miles above Tunas we were compelled to anchor and make an ex- amination of its course'. Here is a pass, throughout which the channel is narrow and tortuous, with a derjth of but ten feet ; it- extends for a short distance only. Just below Bella Vista, the left bank rises one hundred and thirty feet, forming a bluff called Guayana, from an aboriginal tribe of that name, who formerly claimed the surrounding country. A remnant of these Indians, now quiet and demi-civilized, still occupy a few huts in the vicinity. Bella Vista has about one thousand inhabitants, and boasts a Plaza, a church, and commandancia, or office of the commander of the district. I found here one of our countrymen, who had estab- lished himself in the neighborhood for the purpose of cultivating cotton, which is a perennial plant, and is said to produce abun- dantly for fifteen years ; that of the best quality is the product of the first and second years. I learned subsequently that he did not succeed in his enterprise. There is also residing here an En- glishman, engaged largely in the manufacture of molasses and aguardiente. Corn is the principal cereal, but grown only for home consumption, though it might be made an article of profit- able trade. The oranges and peaches are of excellent quality. Indeed, .Nature seems to have exhausted her bounty upon these Argentine States. They have the products of temperate and trop- ical zones ; their woods and flora are rarely equaled ; the climate is neither enervating nor severe, and the atmosphere never laden with miasma. What a land of promise to European emigrants ! So anxious are the government and people to induce immigra- tion, that lands are freely given. The fertility of the soil is every where made available to trade, through the natural canalization, formed by branches which, diverging from the main rivers, and 7 98 FISHING. MONKEY-HUNTING. coursing for a long distance through the interior country, again iind an outlet in the central waters. With the mechanical aids of this progressive age, the labor of one man would be equal to that often in regions less favored.^ The agricultural tribes of the Chaco might furnish herdsmen and farm-assistants. I have alluded to the successful experiments on the western borders, with these In- dians as laborers. While at anchor off Bella Vista for a night, the officers amused themselves by a mode of fishing familiar to me, from having seen it practiced along the shores of York Eiver, in Virginia. Vast quantities of a species of fish, known in the Chesapeake as the " Jumping Mullet," are found in this part of the Parana. Push- ing quietly up stream after dark, with the shoal between the fish- ing-party and the shore, the men rapped on the sides of the boat, the frightened fish leaped out of the water in every direction, hundreds at the same time jumping into the boat. In an incredi- bly short time the whole ship's company were in this manner sup- plied with a mess. In York Eiver the fishermen carry a light elevated some three or four feet, and cover their boats with twigs to prevent the escape of their prisoners. The numerous islands above and below Bella Vista cause sev- eral difficult passes, where we found a depth of but ten feet. The most intricate is three miles above, where the channel, with a width of three quarters of a mile, forms a serpentine figure. Pass- ing near the island of Tobaco, fifteen miles above Bella Vista, one of the crank straps broke, which obliged us to anchor for repairs. I landed on Tobaco Island with my gun in search of specimens. Monkeys chattered in the trees above our heads. I shot four, cor- responding to the species " Caraza" described by Azara. One of them lived for some minutes ; it touched its wound, looked at the blood, then at me with a glance piteous and reproachful ; its moans were plaintive, and really touching from their resemblance to those of a human being. I resolved never again to shoot a monkey. The pilot, who was with me, shot a Ciconia, an enormous bird, a species of stork. One of the sailors, from a nest on the top of a lofty tree, secured two young ones, and, hoping to preserve them alive, we took them on board. For a few days they thrived, and I imagined that we should have no difficulty in rearing them, but I was disappointed. The skins of the monkeys and old birds were brought home in good condition ; those of the young ones were too delicate for preservation. ORANGE ESTANCIA. 99 " Our damage repaired, we proceeded. Passed the Eiacho Natu on the Chaco side, in the same parallel as Tobaco Island. The river now courses east for ten miles, when it again assumes a northerly direction. The right bank within this distance is known in the country as Chimbola coast." I could not learn the origin of this designation, but it is very usual to find different sections of the banks distinguished by some particular name, occasionally derived from that of the present or former owners. At the point where the Parana pursues a northerly course, the Kiacho ISTatu branches off, and two miles above we passed the mouth of the Taquari Chico, which rises in the Chaco. Its banks, so far as we could judge, were well wooded, and there was a quantity of timber cut, ready for use. I found uniformly great difficulty in procuring any information of the interior of the Chaco ; but, from the appearance of its banks, and the growth upon them, I decided that the Taquari Chico was not a riacho, but a river. Opposite its mouth is an island of the same name, and five miles above is the little village of Capilla del Senor " Chapel of the Lord," on the elevated land of the left bank. An island inter- cepts the view when on the same parallel ; and between it and the main land courses a riacho of equal width with the main channel, which some years past was navigable for vessels of the usual size, but it now admits only of the passage of boats.. Passing this island, we had again the firm lands of Corrientes, washed by the waters of the main river for a distance of fifteen miles, to the estancia Domingo de la Torre. This is the property of Don Pedro Domingo de la Torre, and is reputed to be one of the finest estancias in the province. It is famous for its orange-groves, in which there are five thousand trees in full bearing, and the same number coming on ; the net profit from it is, as I learned, five thousand dollars per annum, for the facilities of navigation ren- der the cultivation of this fruit profitable ; and though the oranges of Corrientes are not equal, either in size or quality, to those of Brazil or Paraguay, they are good, and meet with a ready sale, not only in the markets of Buenos Ayres, but in all the villages and towns of the country. Next to beef, it is among all classes the principal and favorite article of food, and my only astonish- ment is that groves are not to be found on all the estancias of the country, where soil and climate both favor their propagation. For the first time, we met with the Camilote, a species of water- 100 AKKIVAL AT CORRIENTES. lily, which floats with the current, and is a sure indication of the rising of the waters in the higher parts of the river. This plant grows with great rapidity during the season of low water, near the banks, but at the rise it is rooted up and carried down by the current. Here, too, we could see the effect of the mingling of the waters of the Parana and Yermejo. The latter, flowing through a more recent alluvial formation, and with a current of one third greater velocity, rushes into the comparatively limpid waters of the Parana, carrying an immense quantity of detritus. Corrientes is twelve miles above the Estancia Domingo de la Torre. Between these two points, on the right bank, a riachu- elo and a more important stream, the Eio Negro, flow into the Parana from the Chaco. The latter, it is said, affords good boat navigation for a long distance into the interior. Fine timber is found on the banks, which is floated down to its mouth, and re- ceived on board of vessels below. "We anchored off Corrientes on the 23d of September. My first visit was to the governor, Senor Don Juan Pujol. As it was an official call, it was made at La Casa delEstado " The State House," a one-storied quadrangular building of brick, with a wide entrance leading to a court, upon which opened all the reception rooms and offices. As my name was announced in entering, the gov- ernor, who was seated at a long table covered with business-look- ing documents, rose, and advanced with many courteous expres- sions of welcome. Placing me upon a sofa, he seated himself, and, after the usual civilities, turned the conversation to the explora- tion of the rivers. He spoke with deep interest of the benefit it would confer upon the Argentine States, and alluded to the iso- lated condition which the selfish policy of Eosas had imposed upon them, and the consequent ignorance of the people as to the wealth of their own resources. Our expedition, he hoped, would stimulate immigration and commercial enterprise toward La Plata. Governor Pujol showed himself to be a man of intel- ligence and education ; and after an interview and conversation protracted far beyond the limits of an official visit, by a manifest disposition on his part to do so, I left him, with the assurance that any aid in his power for the advancement of our work would be given. These professions were made with apparent sincerity, and I afterward had the satisfaction to find that they were acted out in good faith. The following day the governor, accompanied by a friend, re- NAVIGATION OF THE PARANA. 103 turned my visit, and was welcomed on board the first United States man-of-war that had touched at Corrientes. I explained to him that, fitted up for an exploring expedition, we hesitated to call her a war steamer, but could show him some fire-arms of the latest improvement, in the examination of which he ex- pressed great interest. Corrientes has twelve thousand inhabitants, and is on the left bank of the Parana, twenty miles below its junction with the Paraguay. It has an extended water-front, and the anchorage admits of a near approach to the shore, where vessels are re- moved from the influence of the currents. The town is laid out in the usual style of Spanish American cities, with streets inter- secting each other at right angles. There are several churches of some architectural pretension, but generally the buildings are one-storied, with " azoteas." The better class of private dwell- ings are of brick, very spacious, with open courts adorned with orange-trees and gay flowers. They are all neatly plastered and whitewashed on the exterior. The interior arrangements, with- out any effort at decoration, are comfortable. The rooms are constructed with a ' special regard to the climate, and, with the same consideration, simply but appropriately furnished. I shall again allude to this place, as the operations of the expedition obliged us subsequently to visit it. Before proceeding farther, it may not be unimportant to note one or two facts connected with our passage up the u Parana,' 1 and to sum up the names and distances of the most prominent points, from its mouth at Martin Garcia to its junction with the Paraguay. It must be remembered that the Water Witch, with a draught of nine feet, ascended the Parana in the month of Sep- tember, the season of low water, when the pilot pronounced the river lower than usual ; that she encountered no shoal which she could not pass over with that draught, and that the least depth ever shown by the lead in the channel was nine feet. The navi- gation is attended with no danger; there are neither rocks nor sunken trees to impede the way, and, notwithstanding the shifting of the channel which annually takes place at some points, there is always one open with the usual depth of water. The velocity of the current is two and a half miles the hour. The rise of the wa- ter, which begins in December, is about twelve feet. It reaches its maximum in February and March, and its minimum in August. There is also a partial rise of six feet in October, which, rapid and 104 THE KIVEK PKOVINCES. transient, continues one month, then falls to its former level in the same space of time. From Diamante upward there are fine woods, and much of it is excellent as fuel for steamers ; beef and fruits may be purchased at all the towns, and game and fish had for the trouble of seeking them. But the Spanish Americans care little for this latter food indeed, they are prejudiced against it; and above Buenos Ayres, where a large foreign population gives rise to a demand for it, the people, neither for trade nor amusement, employ themselves in fishing. The confluence of the Parana and Paraguay is about one thou- sand miles from the Atlantic. The country on both sides is fer- tile, and above Buenos Ayres, on the firm lands, there are nu- merous estancias, extending from the river banks for many miles into the interior. I have been filled with amazement at the re- sources of these " riverine" provinces, and their availability, with- out the construction of roads, canals, or even the usual obstruc- tions of river navigation, for direct trade with foreign countries. In this course of one thousand miles, the cereals, vegetables, fruits, woods, and flora of almost every zone may be grown to perfection, as is proved by the actual products under the present primitive system of culture. The horned cattle, horses, and sheep are re- markably fine, and their existing numbers, spite of the civil wars which have distracted the country, show the extraordinary adapt- ability of the climate and natural pastures to their increase. The population is sufficient to form the basis of an extended and im- mediate trade ; and the Indians, with the exception of the warlike tribes of the Chaco, are quiet or semi-civilized. The climate is benign, even in low, marshy neighborhoods, as experienced by ourselves, and attested by many writers, particularly Azara, who was employed by the Spanish government to run the boundary- line between its possessions and those of Portugal, and spent twenty years of his life in this work. The Spanish Americans and Mestizos we met with were uniformly friendly and hospitable, and the cities and small towns offer some agreeable society. Be- yond or above Buenos Ayres there are neither Protestant schools nor churches, but there is nothing forbidding them in the Consti- tution of the Argentine Confederation.. The distances of points alluded to in the ascent of the Parana, between its mouth or " Martin Garcia" and " Cerito," at the mouth of the Paraguay, are, in statute miles, as follows : TABLE OF DISTANCES. 105 From Martin Garcia to the Gruazu 24 miles. " Guazu* to San Pedro 88 " San Pedro to San Nicholas 40 " " " " to Obligado ........ 10 " " San Nicholas to Arroyo del Medio .... 2 " " " to Rosario ........ 52 u 6e Rosario to San Lorenzo 14J " " " to mouth of the Cacarana . .... 22 " " " to Diamante 61 " Diamante to Parana . ........ 36 " " Parana to La Paz 102 " " La Paz to Goya . 145 " < Goya to Bella Vista 53 " " Bella Vista to Corrientes 81 " " Corrientes to Cerito , 18 " CHAPTER VI. The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana. Affluents of the Paraguay. Enter the Territory of Paraguay. Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Republic of Paraguay. Visit from the Admiral. Boundaries of the South American Re- publics. Banks of the Paraguay. Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery. Guardias and Piquetes. Tres Bocas. Guardia Humaita. President Lopez and the Bra- zilian Squadron. Vermejo River. Pillar. Cana. Caranday Palm. The Ti- biquari. Salute of Musketry. Villa Franca. The Commandante. The Las- so and Bolas. Oliva. Villa Villeta. A Cigar with the Commandante. San Antonio. Mount Lambare. Arrival at Asuncion. Rise and Fall of the Para- guay. AFTER remaining three days at Corrientes, we obtained observa- tions for determining its geographical position and variation of the compass. I also commenced here a series of observations, to be pursued at suitable points, for determining the characteristics of the waters of the eastern and western affluents. While those from the east are generally pure, those flowing from the west, through the Chaco, are, with few exceptions, saline. Azara says that in summer, at the season of low water, nearly all the springs, lakes, and streams of that region are " more or less brackish." Accord- ing to Father Patino, a Jesuit, who in 1721, accompanied by sev- eral of his order and sixty Guarani Indians, made a partial ex- ploration of the Pilcomayo, with the hope of discovering a water communication between the missions of Chiquitos and those of the * Mouth of the Parana. 106 ENTER THE TERRITORY OF PARAGUAY. east, the lands through, which this river courses are in many places strongly impregnated with salt, " sal comun buerio, en varies paries de las barrancas" " Good common salt in various parts of the banks." Much to my surprise, I found that the graduation of the hy- drometer sunk entirely below the surface of the water, thus giving no reading. I was unwilling to believe that the mingled waters of the Parana and Paraguay were of less specific gravity than dis- tilled or pure rain water. The standard temperature of the instru- ment was 60 Fahrenheit, some degrees below that of the water we were now endeavoring to test : in that lay a solution of the difficulty. To the junction of the Parana and Paraguay, twenty miles above Corrientes, the course of the former river is interrupted by low islands. Here it takes a general direction east, and the Paraguay a tortuous course north. Three miles above Corrientes are the islands* Medio and Mesa, on the left. There the water, hitherto comparatively clear, becomes turbid from commingling with that of the Yermejo, or Eed Kiver, so called from the discoloration caused by the detritus borne along by it during the periodical floods. Some distance above, the Yermejo flows into the Para- guay. Opposite the upper end of the island Mesa is the mouth of a small arm of the Paraguay, Kiacho Atajo, which branches off from the main river three miles above its confluence with the Pa- rana. A continuous chain of low islands now skirt the west bank of the Parana up to that of Atajo, at the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay. This island is claimed as the territory of the Ar- gentine Confederation, but Paraguay has possession, and maintains it, not by diplomacy or argument, but by the establishment of a military post upon it "Guardia Cento," latitude 27 IT 32", longitude 58 37' 32". If it had not been the established rule of our work to anchor and take observations at all important points, custom, or, indeed, the laws of Paraguay, made it obligatory tp stop here and commu- nicate with the commandante before continuing the ascent of the river. Immediately on anchoring, the Water Witch was visited by two officers with the compliments of the admiral. This was a naval station, and the officer in command, with the imposing title of "Admiral of the Navy of theEepublic of Paraguay, "had a squad- ron of five small vessels. We had heretofore, on all public occa- THE ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET. 107 sions since entering La Plata, avoided firing salutes on account of our chronometers, upon which the accuracy of the work depended. I considered it now useless to offer explanations or excuses, and fearing that mj motive might be misinterpreted, we took the usual precautions to protect the instruments, and saluted the admiral (the Paraguay flag " at the fore") with thirteen guns, which was immedi- ately returned with a corresponding number. Salutes having thus been exchanged, the admiral came on board, and expressed much pleasure at our arrival, assuring me that a cordial welcome await- ed the expedition at Asuncion. He had received, a month previ- ously, instructions from the President to offer me every facility for ascending the river ; to supply us with any provisions we might need, and an experienced pilot. This first reception in the waters of Paraguay was certainly cheering ; for, from what we had heard, we knew that President Lopez was here the government supreme, from whose orders there could be no appeal or deviation. We found the river full at its highest point, verifying what I had heard, that the seasons of high and low water in the Parana and Paraguay were the reverse. Observations having been taken, the ascent was continued, the admiral and some of his officers being on board, and their canoe in tow. He wished to witness the working of our steamer, the first United States man-of-war that had ever entered the waters of the Paraguay. After ascending a mile, our friends took leave of us, and returned to Cerito Guardia. The appearance of the Paraguay offers some striking contrasts to the Parana. Its general width rarely exceeds half a mile ; it has comparatively few islands, a tortuous course, and a more open chan- nel. The current is from two to two and a half miles the hour. The country on the left bank is undisputed Paraguay territory ; that on the right is "El gran Chaco." The Argentine Confeder- ation claims the latter for a distance covering the mouth of the Vermejo, but Paraguay does not recognize this. right, and main- tains her jurisdiction over that part of the river by a naval and military force, established not only at Cerito Guardia, but at va- rious other points. It is very difficult to obtain any reliable in- formation as to the grounds upon which these territorial limits in the Chaco are based. All the republics of La Plata have among them unsettled questions of boundary, but those relating to this country are founded upon original treaties made when the entire southern hemisphere was divided between Spain and Portugal. 103 BANKS OF THE PARAGUAY. The ground in dispute between the Argentine States and Paraguay has only an extent of twenty-seven miles in latitude and forty by the course of the river, scarcely the length of many estancias; and in La Plata, where there are extended regions of fertile but waste lands, would be of no consequence but for its geographical features.- It gives Paraguay command of the mouth of theYermejo, a river known to be navigable to the northwest provinces of the Argent- ine Confederation, Salta and Jujui. . The banks of the Paraguay are less elevated than those of the Parana ; up to Asuncion, they rarely exceed twenty -five feet. To within a short distance of the capital their geological formation is unvarying : a substratum of yellowish sand of about ten feet thick- ness, a middle stratum of earthy clay, and a surface virgin soil of about three feet. The timber is abundant, and of excellent quality. "In the isles of the Parana," says my journal, " we have seen the lovely gardens of La Plata, we have now before us her parks. It is the region of the palm, which here rises to a great height. The grass is green, luxuriant, and clean as a well-kept lawn ; deer gambol under the trees, and it needs not a vivacious imagination to conceive that, at each bend in the river, some noble mansion, to , which these parks pertain, will appear. A few habitations are alone wanted to animate the landscape, and complete the pleasant association of homes in this fair land. There are extended for- ests of these palms, so symmetrical, fresh, free from all that could detract from their beauty ; growing apart at such exact, apparent- ly measured distances, that we are filled with astonishment and admiration." The east bank of the river is defended by guardias and piquttes throughout the extent of Paraguay, each occupied by from six to twelve men ; the piquetes being placed at intervals of three miles, while the guardias are more distant apart. They are the stations of a river police for the detection and prevention of smuggling, and also dispatch offices for the rapid transmission of intelligence to the capital. On the west bank there are no guardias ; and in- asmuch as the Indians of the Chaco have no canoes, the river is considered a sufficient barrier to prevent, on their part, any hostile or predatory incursions. Great as was the luxuriance of vegetation upon the Parana, as we approach the equator I find it enriched by a more varied and brilliant flora. Flowering shrubs abound, and delicately fragrant epiphytes. The trunks of large trees are enwrapped by climbing GUAKDIAS AND PIQUETES. 109 plants, their long tendrils pendent, or festooning the lowest with the topmost branches, and enameling the dark foliage with their many-hued blossoms. The most important guardia above Cerito is that of Tres Bocas " Three Mouths" so called from there being at that point two branches from the main river, the Atajo, to -which I have alluded, and the Pires, which flows into the Parana some few miles above its junction with the Paraguay. Though distant from Cerito five miles, these two guardias are often confounded with each other under the name of Tres Bocas. Around the larger " guardias" there is some little cultivation of corn and mandioca, but as abodes they are generally desolate places. The houses consist merely of posts planted in the ground, interlaced with bamboo, filled in with mud, and thatched with common grass. The look-out is a platform of about sixty feet in height, open at the sides, and thatched with straw. It is generally so placed as to command an extensive view up and down the river. The piquetes are simply thatched sheds, with raw-hide hammocks for the men, suspended so as to be protected by the roof from rain. Of these, the Guar- dia Humaita occupied one of the most commanding points on the Lower Paraguay, and there President Lopez, in 1855, erected quite a formidable battery, in anticipation of troubles with Brazil, and probably certainly with good reason with the United States. The imperial government felt aggrieved at some indignities offered to its minister at Asuncion, and sent a large naval force, consisting of several war steamers and transports, under the com- mand of Admiral , to demand satisfaction. "We are left to infer, from a subsequent debate in the Imperial Legislature at Kio de Janeiro, that this officer was sent with discretionary power to fight or negotiate, as circumstances might render necessary. Negotiation was first resorted to, pending which the battery at Humaita was erected, and the imperial squadron, with the excep- tion of the admiral's flag-ship, in which he ascended to Asuncion, was kept below. This river defense was pushed on with great rapidity, and is of such strength that I believe it might have ar- rested the ascent of the squadron. The delay incident to this ne- gotiation was a move on the diplomatic chess-board showing abil- ity and astuteness on the part of President Lopez. The expedition was at that time a failure ; it, however, led to some after-proposi- tion which resulted in an amicable settlement of the differences, and the opening of the Paraguay to Brazilian vessels up to the 110 THE VEKMEJO. FILAR. northwest province of the empire, whose natural outlet is un- doubtedly this river. This act of President Lopez, if extended to all flags, might be classed with the decree of Urquiza which opened the Argentine waters to the commerce of nations.* In latitude 26 51' 52" south, longitude 58 28' 21" west, forty- eight miles above Cerito, the Eiver Yermejo pours its muddy waters into the Paraguay from the west. It rises in the Cordil- leras of the southern parts of Bolivia, and receives, in addition to many minor tributaries, the more important river Jujuy, or Lava- yan, which flows from the western ranges of Salta. From Palca de Soria, where the Yermejo may be said to enter the Chaco, it takes i,he general direction of southeast, under a very tortuous course, to its junction with the Paraguay, directly opposite to a guardia of the same name, undoubtedly placed there to give the republic exclusive control over its mouth. All the villages and guardias of Paraguay that have been or may hereafter be mentioned, it must be remembered, are on the east side of the river, with the exception of Cerito, which is upon an island. Pilar, in latitude 26 51' 9", longitude 58 22' 35", is the first village we meet with in ascending. In the time of Fran- cia, and before the opening of the river to Asuncion, this town, known as Nembucu, was a place of some commercial activity; that is, it was the only port on the Paraguay open to trade, and even to this point only those vessels that had received especial permission could ascend. We called upon the commandante, from whom I received many assurances of his desire to serve us. Cigars of the native tobacco were handed around, and cana a liquor extracted from the sugar- cane, of which each member of the company was expected to take a sip. This liquor is usually taken without water, and is the most potent tipple that I have ever tasted. As soon as good-breed- ing would permit, I relieved my mouth of the burning sensation it produced by a glass of water. Pilar has two thousand inhab- itants, and is prettily placed on a fertile plain, elevated some twenty feet above the river. The streets are at right angles, and the houses, of one story, plastered and whitewashed, are roofed either with tile, the trunks of palm-trees, or thatched. This species of palm, the Caranday (Copernicia cerifera), forms an excellent covering in this climate, and will last for thirty years. The trunks of the trees are divided, and the interior wood, which * This has more recently been done. THE TIBIQUARL VILLA FRANCA. HI is very fibrous, taken out, leaving a shell of from one and a half to two inches in thickness, which becomes hard and flinty when dry. These are placed side by side, with the convex surface up, extending from the pitch to the eaves ; their edges, when brought together, are covered by a third trunk, forming a roof not unlike tile, and quite as impervious to rain. This is the usual mode of covering the quintas and ranchos on the river, and the Chaco op- posite furnishes an inexhaustible supply of material. I found great difficulty here, as in every part of Paraguay, in obtaining any statistics, and can- scarcely say whether this was to be attributed to the ignorance of the people, or to suspicion of my motive in making such inquiries. Some of the officers of the Water Witch occupied themselves with observations for geograph- ical determination, while, others added to our collection by obtain- ing specimens of rare fish, and supplied our table with several va- rieties of excellent quality. Thirty miles above Pilar the Tibiquari empties into the Para- guay on the left bank. It rises in the central sierras of Paraguay, and in a westerly course passes through the most populous and fertile districts of the country. It could, at a mere nominal ex- pense, be made navigable at all seasons for steamers of two feet draught. The principal products of the interior, corn and tobac- co, now transported in wagons carrying one and a half tons each, could be conveyed to the capital in steamers of the capacity of fifty wagons in half the time, and at one third the cost. This river separates the two provinces, Villa Franca on the north, and Pilar on the south. The former is remarkable for its fertility, and its principal town, of the same name, is on the Paraguay, fifty- nine miles above Pilar. On approaching Yilla Franca, I discovered, from the movements of the guard, that we were expected to land ; I consequently came to anchor. The bank leading to the town is ascended from the river by a flight of steps, and, as we reached the top, a squad of soldiers drawn up honored our arrival by two rounds of musketry. The novelty of this salute was rather startling, but we acknowl- edged it with due gravity, as a mark of respect for the "flag." The commandante received us with the usual ceremonies and hospitality. General Lopez, the son of the president, -who is commander-in- r.hief of the army, was, at the time of our arrival in Paraguay, ab- sent on a diplomatic mission to the leading powers of Europe. II" > \M> TIlO j;X>Otl comnwwlanto spoke \\ ilh enthusiasm of Ins al> nil .--(Mi eral. llesivmeo! to have a va^'ue idea ilial ho had Uvn dispateh od (o ;i "!>MI ilistaiU'O MI \ ( v r\ iiu|ort:in(. Inbunr;;;;, luit \\;i-; r;illuM' :il :( loss to kiu>\v \vlu'tl>ri- th;il jonnu-v rvlriulrtl l>r\oiul tin- luu Us ..I r.n.i-ii.iN . Ho had mai'.mruvul ulrns >>l'llu ami political iiuportniu'o *!' Ins i-tMinirv, a lu-nl, slaiij-.-hliTi'vl, aiul por Moiis siM-voil up at \Mc in less lime than it \\ouKl take to kill ami a u\\l \\ith us. In an inerediblv short time aHer nn ot' his oiler, a bello\\m>', plunyiti;', animal \vas IM. 01. l\ A \ 11.1. A \ II. I I I \ | | ;; under ihe 1.1 . i" the bank m front of the steamer, and there slaughtered loi our use. Twolvo miles beyond \ i!l:i h'i .1 1 iea. Mild ji quarter of :i mile horn tht> banks of the Paia-nav . i:; lh,' \ illa;-e t >ll\ :t. Here the 1 1 \ er lakes :i serpent I ne eoiirso, and, l >r I lie li i : I lime, I he hanks oil 1 1 1C ( 'haeo : ide l I: c !' 1 he he i; -III of t \\ eill \ lee I, plVSOIIt illi.! !l deep :(i:illllil of reddl.h el.i\ l>eiie:ilh I he vegetable SUrlMOi 'rhe\ ;iie \\ell ImiluMvd \Vilh lapaeho, . | uel -i :iel i, >, in iinda\ , :ind a \ariel\ of other Woods. A'simllii lores I ded h\ pa.lllis, \\lneli, hk(> lln'i'e el l':i I :i" 11:1 \ . lie I'iciii \i">'iM|- ;IIH! Nel'dnilt |i:im:: ! "i:i . \\ilh.Mi! inidei ;-r. -\\lh. lMi\;i slauds Oil :i |'l:iin twonl\ leei above ihe river, \\lneh has here overllowed the K>\\ lands in front, illtlioiiidi lh^; is not the reputed season ol lii;-h \\ a ler; li-r lh- same iiniloniiii \ \\hieh marks the periodii'nl eliaii-e; <>l the l*!l,rail!l loes not prevail in the I 'al'MffUUV* 1 \vel\e in lie:- a 1 o\ e this. \ 1 1 he 'e, < >i i I ho C^luu'o side, is Mont*' Li i H la, a be.uit if ill L\\'( >\ e of eat IL- ua. I'loni ()h\a to \'illa \'illela. the next small (own on the I'aia !'ii:i\ , t he distanee is si\l\ I \\ o unit;:. \\ e aiiehored heir allei dark. A' I uas HUMOUS to p|oeee| eail\ the next 1 1 loi 1 1 1 1 1- , not \\illistaiidin; 1 tlu 4 hour, I ealN'tl to pa\ in\ respet'ts to the elnel di"intar\ ol the \ illa-e, \\ II.MH I loin id seated under the nrojeet . ^ .' Q I .' my root'ol'ln house, : in rounded l>\ In laiinl\. While the olli .unused a L-roup of \ illa^ers \\ ho had gathered around them \\ ith tales ot' the i la liters lhe\ had passed, I smoked a ei":n \\ ilh (he eonmtandaiile l-\ the dun lielions, \\hieh sei'VO I he double purpo:e of proteetni" them lioiu the :ei>reliiii" ra\:' *! the sun. and in the evening MS plaees ol resort for the inhabil:inls. \\lio lliere sit, f-ossip and smoke the laltei an ai'eoinplishnuMit, not, limited to Mi-e or sex. A short, (listaucc 1 above tins village the line rollni"' land i>l Tara-naN opened hclore us, \\ith melosed and \velleiilti\aled 'fields of coin, t.obaeeo, and mandioea, alternat.ed b\ lu'autil'ul pa.lm l'ro\es. Nolhlii" I'oiild be more piel u I'est pie or \el'dailt tltail the eoiiiitrv on bolh sides, and we had here \\hat alone was needed to pel feet the la ndsea pes below habitat ioi is and cult lire. Kanehos and \ oran."e JTONCS, were dotted here and >! \ in." MS \\ e apj >it >aehed the ea| ula I. 8 114 ARRIVAL AT ASUNCION. Six miles above Yilleta is the guardia of San Antonio, which was occupied in 1853 by " the American Company" established in Paraguay. Beyond this guardia we passed Mount Lambare, an isolated, conical wooded hill, of basaltic formation, rising abruptly from the river bank to the height of three hundred and twelve feet. On the opposite or Chaco side is the Eiacho Yaguare, into which empties the Eiver Ypita, considered by some one of the two mouths of the Pilcomayo. A mile or two below the capital, the left banks become quite precipitous, presenting a stratum of reddish chalk beneath the surface-soil ; and immediately opposite is an island, across which is seen the upper branch or mouth of the Pilcomayo. Here the Paraguay turns abruptly east, and a mile above, on the left bank, stands Asuncion. We anchored off the town on the 1st of October, and received a visit from the captain of the port. Preliminaries arranged, a national salute was fired from the Water Witch, with the Para- guay flag at the fore, which was returned by the field-pieces of the garrison at the government house. The general width of the Paraguay up to the capital is half a mile, at some points less than a quarter. The least depth found was twenty feet, the greatest seventy-two, and "no bottom." Velocity of current in general, two miles per hour. There seems to be less uniformity in its rise and fall than in those of the Pa- rana. It has now reached its maximum height, which it ordi- narily attains in December, and this is but the beginning of the " rising season." With a view of determining, with some degree of accuracy, its rise and fall, a graduated staff was "planted" in a suitable place, and the fall of the river observed from the 24th of October, 1853, to the 31st of March, 1854, throughout one en- tire period of falling, and a portion of its rise. It was estimated, at the time of the erection of the staff, that the waters had fallen two feet, and, judging from the rate at which it fell, the river must have been at its highest point the 1st of October. The greatest fall from October 1st to February 5th was thirteen feet three inches. To a clear comprehension of the fluctuation in the river during the time embraced, I take from the journal the following table kept by Lieutenant Ammen. KISE AND FALL OF THE PARAGUAY. H5 A * Statement of the fall and rise of the River Paraguay, at Asuncion, from October 1st, 1853, to March 3lst, 1854. The river was above its ordi- nary high water on the 1st of October. Ft. In. From October 1st to 24th, supposed fall by marks ... 2 00 " 24th to 31st, by staff, river fell 08 " " 31st to 29th Nov. " " 2 06 " Nov. 29th to 27th Dec. " " 4 00 " Dec. 27th to 5th Jan. " 2 05 " Jan. 5th to 12th " " 08 Fall of river from October 1st to Jan. 12th 12 03 From January 12th to Jan. 21st, river rose 11 Difference of level from Oct. 1st to Jan. 21st 11 04 Ft. In. From Jan. 21st to Jan. 30th, river fell 09 " " 30th to Feb. 5th " " 1 j)2 1 111 11 Greatest fall from Oct. 1st to Feb. 5th 13 03 On February 28th, same level. From 28th to March 31st, river rose 5 09 Difference of level from October 1st to March 31st 7 06 The width of the river at Asuncion by calculation was found to be six hundred and five yards. It has, up to the capital, few islands, and the navigation is less difficult than that of the Parana. Its waters are confined within narrower limits, and its channel has more uniformly the same depth. It has no such obstructions as rocks or sunken trees, but sufficient depth throughout the year for the largest river steamers, and enough at certain seasons for vessels of sixteen feet the greatest draught that could be carried over the bar at Martin Garcia Island, under the ordinary rise of the tide at that point. The banks are wooded with fine timber throughout, save at limited sections subject to inundation. Much of this wood is valuable for building and ornamental purposes, and also as fuel for steamers, and the waters contain a great vari- ety of excellent fish, that may be caught either with seine or hook and line. INTERVIEW WITH LOPEZ. CHAPTER VII. Interviews with President Lopez. Negotiations. -Residence at Asuncion. The City. Buildings. Francia's Tomb. Francia's Cruelties. Isolation of Para- guay. Francia's System. Dahlgreen's Howitzer. The American Company. Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day. Reception at the Government House. Grand Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice. The Speech. ON the day of our arrival I called on the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and presented my letters of credence from the Secretary of State, Mr. Everett. In this interview, " El Secretario" betrayed more curiosity than intelligence as to the objects of our expedi- tion. My visit ended with an appointment to call on the Presi- dent the same day at 4 o'clock. I was punctual to the hour, and found the corridor that sur- -^ounds the government house filled with soldiers, who gave the usual military salute as we passed. On entering the vestibule, where was stationed a small guard, an officer received my card, and taking it in to the President, I was, without a moment's de- tention, admitted to his presence. A door, pn each side of which was stationed a soldier, gave access from the vestibule to a long, plainly-carpeted room, against the walls of which stood a row of cane-seat chairs, arranged with military precision. At the upper end was a circular table, where sat, with one arm resting upon it, "His Excellency Senor Don Carlos Antonio Lopez," President of the Kepublic of Paraguay. The engraving on the opposite page will give the reader a more vivid impression of His Excellency's personal appearance than any description I could possibly offer. A chair was placed (I presume purposely) at the table before him, and, slightly raising his hat, without rising, as I approached, he requested me to be seated, and to place my hat on the table, which I afterward discovered was an act of condescension not to be too lightly esteemed. I showed him my commission from the President of the United States, of which he requested a copy, and explained to him the objects of the expedition under my com- mand. This reception was very unlike the unpretending but courteous style of the Provisional Director of the Argentine Con- federation. I afterward learned, however, that it was the usual UNIVERSITY OF LOPEZ. 117 etiquette observed by the President of Paraguay on all official oc- casions to remain seated with his hat on. The higher the rank of the visitor, the more particular is he in this observance. Sub- sequently I had frequent interviews with him, and occasionally I have known him to relax somewhat, and even to take his hat off; a mark, I was assured, of extraordinary personal favor toward myself. He is about fifty -four, and has never been out of the confines of Paraguay, where, though ruling under the title of President, his authority is despotic and unquestioned. He is highly intelligent, well read, and familiar with the polity of for- eign governments; he is also an accomplished, but, as I after- ward discovered, unscrupulous diplomatist. CARLO ANTONIO LOPEZ, PRESIDENT OP PARAGUAY. Owing to the isolated position of his country, and her freedom, so far, from friction with governments foreign to La Plata, or from checks at home, he is rather defiant of the laws of nations. I found him, in conversation, far more agreeable and affable than I 118 NEGOTIATIONS. had been led to suppose. He talks much, and well. After an interview of more than an hour, protracted by himself, he rose, and I took leave, impressed with his favorable disposition toward the expedition. After the lapse of a few days I called again, and presented the President with the plan of a steamer we wished to construct at Asuncion for the survey "of the smaller tributaries of the river. I also gave him an estimate of the timber required for this purpose for this is one of the national monopolies and President Lo- pez being the government, all business to which it can be a part}^ must be transacted with him. He examined the plan, read with care our list of requisites, and promptly said that instructions should be immediately given to supply us with the articles enu- merated, and any others that might be necessary for our purpose. We at once made preparations for building our little crafLj The whole was intrusted to Lieutenant Ammen, who had drawn the plan, and now, with the assistance of one of the engineers, Mr. Lambden, began the work with, energy. Tin the mean time I occupied myself with arrangements for continuing the explora- tion of the Paraguay. To obtain the necessary permission for this required some diplomacy, for in the treaty of commerce and navigation concluded before my arrival it had been stipulated that the navigation of the river should be limited to Asuncion. There were unsettled questions as to territorial limits on the northern borders between Brazil and Paraguay, and the prohibit- ory decrees of President Lopez, in reference to the navigation of the river above the capital, were made with the view of forcing Brazil to terms. In excluding other nations, without any posi- tive demonstration of hostility toward his Imperial Majesty, he deprived him of access through the Paraguay to the richest mineral districts of the empire. He said that, should he permit the "Water Witch to ascend the river, Brazil would make the same demand, and he was resolved not to grant her that privilege in the present state of their political relations. I argued the char- acter of our expedition ; its manifest objects, which should not be considered in connection with others of a speculative or solely trading character/ I suggested the possible value of its results to science, which I knew his intelligence enabled him fully to under- stand ; that, in giving to the world a knowledge of waters "so little known," our explorations would confer a positive and immediate benefit upon his own and neighboring countries, while the people NEGOTIATIONS. 119 of the United States, and others at a greater distance, could be only remotely or incidentally interested. The point was conceded, and I was, of course, disposed to put upon it the most latitudinous construction ; that is, to ascend as far as I could in an ocean steamer. I understood uniformly, in my conversations with President Lopez, and from an official paper sent me relating to this subject, that I could carry our surveys throughout the limits of Paraguay north, or, indeed, beyond them, for permission was given me to ascend to Bahia Negra, in latitude 20 10' 14". Bahia Negra is conceded to Bolivia by both Brazil and Para- guay. From that point the President could neither direct nor check our operations,, for I had already received permission from Bolivia to enter her waters, and from Brazil to ascend to Albu- querque, which was some distance within the acknowledged limits of the empire. I in fact ascended to Corumba, and should have gone farther but for the limitation designated by Brazil, and yet have felt that I had not placed too wide a construction upon the concession of the President of Paraguay. Before beginning the ascension of the river, I was obliged to contract for the delivery, at different points, of steamer fuel. This was again an official affair, and led to several visits to the govern- ment house. The agreements were all satisfactorily carried out ; but the cutting of woods for such a purpose being a new branch of industrial enterprise in those remote parts of Paraguay, I paid high, considering its extensive forests that is, from four to five dollars per cord. The quality, however, was excellent, one cord proving fully equal to a ton of coal. When we arrived at Asuncion, I was aware that the business to which I have alluded would detain me some time; I antici- pated, indeed, unnecessary delay, and knew, from experience, that it was useless to complain. One must enter upon every work in Spanish America with rather a patient, philosophical spirit ; but I soon discovered that, even with the Paraguayan, the almighty dol- lar had its influence, and believe that I eventually expedited the operation of my wood-cutters by adding a few additional pennies to the price per cord. Pending these preparations, and to avoid, in some degree, the excessive annoyance from musquitoes, I moved to an apartment in the " Calle del Sol." The rooms were nicely whitewashed, and, to rid them of the army of fleas, common enough to every house, 120 LIFE IN ASUNCION. my servant waged a successful war against them by flooding the tile-floors daily with water. The furniture was simple. There was a cot, with a snowy musquito-net, which had done good serv- ice during a long cruise in the China seas ; two cedar tables, two feet by four, served, one for dining, the other for books and writ- ing materials ; some crockery from the Water Witch, arranged by my boy in a cupboard, made a brilliant display, but a dozen rich- ly-carved, high-backed chairs, which dated from the time of the Jesuits, were the pride of the establishment, for in art those mis- sionaries were the Medici of La Plata. My "boy" was chamber- maid, butler, and cook. Eoast beef, chickens, mandioca a vege- table that would in any country be pronounced delicious oranges at all times, grapes and figs in their season, were the luxuries of the table. Fine fish might have been added but for the indiffer- ence, indeed dislike of the Paraguayans, like all Spanish Ameri- cans, for that food ; for in towns rarely visited by strangers it is not often seen in their markets. Perhaps these may be considered trivialities ; I allude to them in illustration, for my style of living was not surpassed, if equaled, by that of the best houses of Asun- cion. ; There is no lack of neatness in their domestic arrange- ments, but no people are more simple in their habits ; indeed, one needs so little in that delicious climate, the costly and elaborate furniture, considered now a necessity in our country, would be here an annoying superfluity. Imperial carpets and brocatelle hang- ings would be as much out of place in Paraguay as a costume of the dog-days upon a Broadway pedestrian in the middle of January. Asuncion was first settled in 153 6. It contains now about twelve thousand inhabitants, and is, according to our determinations, in latitude 25 16' 30" south, longitude 57 42' 42". It is prettily placed, the land rising, at the point where the city stands, some fifty feet above the river. With a few improvements, its position for commercial purposes would be eligible, but individual enter- prise has little scope, for the playa or landing is government prop- erty. During our stay in the country a quay of stone was built, and, though undoubtedly an important work, it would by no means sufficiently facilitate the dispatch of business should Asun- cion ever have an extensive foreign trade. The people are wedded to old habits, and will forever discharge and load vessels by canoes, should not some enterprising foreigner suggest a change. Owing to the extraordinary edicts of Francia, the streets are regular, and the frontage of the houses even ; for any luckless proprietor whose ASUNCION. 123 building impaired this uniformity during his administration had the satisfaction of having it, without previous intimation, under- mined, halved, or quartered, as the exigencies of the case might require. A piece was nicely sliced off, leaving saloons and bed- rooms minus half their previous dimensions. Some of these un- fortunate tenements are still standing, looking like a "big loaf" after dinner.^ The dwellings are uniformly of one story, some of them be- ing large and well-constructed, containing six, eight, or ten airy rooms opening upon a court. The bricks of which they are built are peculiar in form and size, being from twelve to fourteen inches in length, eight in breadth, and about two in thickness. The bet- ter houses are tiled, the roofs projecting some three or four feet beyond the eaves, but, in the erection of others more ordinary, the roof is the first part completed ; posts are driven into the ground, on these are placed sleepers to support the joists and rafters, strips of the cana or bamboo are placed transversely across, sufficiently close together to retain the mud or mortar, which serves to cement the joinings or unite the tile. In such houses the trunks of palm, prepared as I have described, are more frequently used than tiles. The principal public buildings are the "Cabildo," the Cathedral, THE CABILDO, ASUNCION. 124 FRANCIA. THE CATHEDRAL, ASUNCION. and two or three other churches, the latter dating from the time of the Jesuits. In the Cabildo the national Legislature meets. The churches are kept in good condition, but one was evidently less re- sorted to than others. The good people rarely allude to this, for a fearful mystery overhangs its sacred precincts ; it contained at one time all that was mortal of the Dictator Francia. There he was undoubtedly interred, and a monument erected over his remains. One fair morning the church was opened, as usual, for prayer ; this monument was scattered in fragments upon the floor, and the bones of the tyrant had disappeared forever nobody cared how, nobody asked where. It was only whispered that the devil had claimed his own, body and soul. No modern era has produced a parallel to his iniquitous rule. For a quarter of a century, unchecked by the fear, reproaches, or notice of other governments, Francia tyrannized over this lovely country, and perpetrated a series of crimes, the recital of which fills us with horror. At his death, spite of the numberless executions which disgraced his administration, and which must have been his pastime, the prisons of Asuncion were gorged with more than sev- en hundred poor creatures, some of whom had been there twenty SYSTEM OF FRANCIA. 125 years. They were broken down physically ; some were reduced to hopeless idiocy, and all were given back to the world to find that homes and families had been swept away during that fearful deluge of tyranny. It will be seen in another chapter that it was the policy of Spain, in her colonial government, to keep her transatlantic subjects from all communication with the outer world, while, at the same time for this was the object of that system the extent and resources of her possessions upon the American continent were carefully veiled from the knowledge of European nations. Paraguay, be- tween the parallels of 21 and 27 south, distant by the course of the river about one thousand miles from the Atlantic, and shut out from the Pacific by the Andean barrier, remained a terra incognita to all but Spanish officials. Aided by her geographical position, she was the first of the colonies to assert her independence ; but soon passing under the sway of Francia, who inflexibly maintain- ed non-intercourse with other nations, she has continued a region of the unknown. While the other republics of La Plata were, after their emanci- pation from Spanish rule, distracted by anarchy, Paraguay was comparatively tranquil ; it was not the quiet of progress and good government, but that of a political and social paralyzation, pro- duced by the system of Francia a system that debased the na- tional mind, leaving it submissive to any rule, without moral or physical courage to resist oppression. He established, in time, such a compound system of espionage spy placed over spy and coerced the simple Paraguayans during his twenty-six years' rule into such timorous silence, that death seems scarcely to have released them from his thraldom. The people of the lower countries of La Plata will tell you that a Par- aguayan never mentions the name of the Dictator without looking behind him. His adherents and the instruments of his iniquity were the soldiers ; his victims, landed proprietors ; but, above all, those of Spanish origin, from confiscations of whose property his principal revenue was derived. When at Asuncion I saw much of Senor , whose family had suffered greatly during that reign of terror, and in his con- versations with me he frequently alluded to their wrongs. He was an amiable, gentlemanly, and intelligent person ; but he al- ways mentioned the name of Francia with reserve, in a half whis- per, glancing stealthily around the room, as if fearful that the grave 126 THE DAHLGREEN GUN. would give up its dead. I afterward discovered that the manner was not peculiar to him, but to all Paraguayans in alluding to the Dictator. His name is rarely pronounced. In life he was El Su- premo ; since his death, they allude to him and to his deeds as those of ElDefunto. The United States government sent out by the Water Witch one of my friend Dahlgreen's " twelve-pound howitzers/' to be pre- sented to the President of Paraguay. A day was appointed for its delivery, and the second son of the President, Don Benancia, a major in the army, was deputed to receive it. Many officials and quite a concourse of people assembled at the point chosen for its reception. Mounted on its field-carriage, and manned with a good crew from the Water Witch, it was loaded with its "fixed ammuni- tion" in double-quick time, pointed across the river to the Chaco, and fired in rapid succession, keeping two shrapnells at the same time rolling on the water, while the contents and fragments of those that preceded them and exploded had demonstrated the deadly ef- fect, of this modern missile of war. The assembled crowd looked on in wonder. The firing over, the men dashed off with the gun at full speed, thus exhibiting its facility of locomotion as well as rapidity of discharge. Major Lopez expressed himself delighted, and declared that, with a battery of half a dozen such pieces, he could defend the approach to Asuncion against vast odds. I quote from my journal : " October 17th. Arrived from Buenos Ay res a steamer called the ' Fanny,' sailing under Montevidean colors, having on board Mr. E. A. Hopkins, United States Consul for Asuncion. He is also agent for * the American Company,' several members of which are on board, having come to Paraguay with the view of establishing themselves for commercial purposes, and, judging from the re- sources of this country, they should meet with great success." On the day appointed for Mr. Hopkins to present his credentials to the President he was accompanied by myself and many of the officers of the Water Witch. All was ready to proceed up the river, but I was requested to remain a few days and witness the great fete of Asuncion, the an- niversary of his Excellency's birth-day, the 4th of November, on which occasion there is a public reception. But one class of func- tionaries or visitors is received at a time ; the clergy had preced- ed us. As they retired we entered, and found " President Lopez," as usual, at the end of the long room I have described, seated be- THE PRESIDENT'S FETE. 127 fore the circular table, dressed in a uniform of buff and gold ; wearing in place of the usual round beaver a cocked hat with gold lace and ostrich feathers. After offering him our congratulations, we retired to make room for others, and were conducted into an adjoining apartment to partake of refreshments, provided in great profusion, and consisting of excellent confectionery, cakes, Cham- pagne, English ale, coffee. We were treated with much kind at- tention by the different officials, and the occasion seemed to be one of enjoyment to all classes. The day concluded with a ball given by the Chief Justice, at which were present not only all the beauty and fashion of Asun- cion, but the President and his family. Seats were especially pre- pared for them at one end of the room ; that for his Excellency was on a carpeted platform elevated about one foot above the floor. Opposite were rows of chairs for the matrons, who seemed to have attended for the sole purpose, and to find full occupation in watch- ing their fair daughters ; for the Spanish American girls, like those of the European continent, are never seen, even by their lovers, out of the presence of mamma, or some matron to whom their care is delegated. Madam Lopez and her daughters were pleasing and ladylike ; the latter, like all women of the country, extravagantly fond of dancing, but the ill health of the younger on this occasion deprived her of this enjoyment At an early hour of the evening the music suddenly ceased, and there was perfect silence. A tall personage we were told that he was an LL.D. moved to the centre of the room, made a profound bow, and then, with vigorous gesticulation and imposing solemnity of mien, delivered an address highly flattering to the chief magistrate of Paraguay, who received it with calm, unmoved countenance, and at its conclusion retired. The company, all standing, listened to this rather flowery effusion with gravity and respect ; but as the door closed upon his Excel- lency, dancing recommenced, and was kept up until the dawn of day. L/ 128 DEPARTURE FROM ASUNCION. CHAPTEE VIII. Departure from Asuncion. The President's Quinta. Salinas. A Hill. The Con- fuso. The Salado. Estancia of Lopez. Variety of Woods and Fruits. Que- bracho. Capiepomo. Guazu. Cattle. Hospitality. River Scenery. An Accident to Engine. Piquete Ytati. Wood for Steamers. Plants and Shrubs. River Jejui. San Pedro. Another Accident to Engine. Guaycuru Rembiu. Government Estancia. The Pacu Fish. River Changes. The Ypane. Ar- rival at Concepcion. I QUOTE from my journal : " November 7^, 1853. We left Asuncion this morning at half past five o'clock, upward bound. The reply of the President of Paraguay to my letter requesting permission for the expedition to pass through the territory claimed by his government is all I could desire ; he attaches no limits to the extent of our explorations on the river. ' Have in view the President's quinta; it extends for six miles along the river ; all is verdant and enameled with culti- vation. At the highest point of the rolling land, which rises in wave-like ridges from the river, is placed the dwelling, command- ing an extensive view, including the salinas, which at times present a busy scene ; for here, in small huts, the salt-gatherers establish themselves during the season of low water, and, by a rude and prim- itive process, manufacture an extensive supply for the Asuncion market : it is inferior to the imported article, but for cattle or ordi- nary purposes serves very well. Extensive saline districts exist in the Chaco ; the rivers that flow through that country are, with few exceptions, brackish, but this is the second instance in which we have met with this formation east of the Paraguay ; the first was below the capital, near Mount Lambare. The earth, when first turn- ed up, exhibits no evidence of the presence of salt, but after being for some time exposed to the sun, it becomes covered with a crust, looking like a white frost. The people collect this efflorescence carefully, but it is from the water, through which the earth is re- peatedly washed to extract all saliferous particles, that the princi- pal supply is obtained. In a country rich in pasture-lands, and so far from the ocean, this provision of Providence is only one among the multiplied evidences of bounty to these fair regions of creation." On the President's lands is the port Lasararaxas the family name of Madame Lopez and in operation near it are several ex- THE CONFUSO. PINON. 129 tensive brick-kilns. Twelve miles above Asuncion there is. on the Chaco bank, an isolated conical hill of mica schist rising to the height of one hundred feet, the first elevation on that side exceed- ing twenty feet since leaving " Santa Fe, seven hundred and twenty miles below. It furnishes a quarry of building-stone from which great blocks are rolled down by a gradual descent to the water's edge. Immediately above this quarry, the Eiver Confuso, a narrow, tortuous stream, taking its rise no one knows where, discharges itself into the Paraguay. At a subsequent period Lieutenant Mur- daugh ascended it for twenty-four miles, encountered some difficul- ties in the navigation, and made slow progress, though in a steam- er of but two feet draught. From his account of it we must con- clude that it has its source in the eastern Cordilleras of Bolivia. It has been supposed to be a branch of the Pilcomayo, and is marked on some maps as such, but the difference in the character of their waters must set at rest this idea. That of the Pilcomayo is brack- ish only when the river is unusually low and sluggish, while that of the Confuso is decidedly bitter and saline. The Confuso, like many other rivers of the Chaco, is probably pure at its source, and becomes impregnated from flowing through saliferous districts. Considered as a branch of the Pilcomayo, the distance through which it would course before reaching the Paraguay is not suffi- cient to produce so great a change in its waters. If a distinct river, rising, as I believe, in the high lands of Bolivia, it is but a new link and another evidence of the beautiful river system which charac- terizes the basin of La Plata. Four miles above the quarry, on the Chaco side, a conical rock, called the "Pinon," rises about twenty feet above the water, in the middle of the river. It is surmounted by a block of red sandstone of about six feet diameter at the top, so symmetrical and so nicely adjusted that one might suppose it to have been designedly placed there by some skillful hand. Directly opposite, a small stream, the Salado, which flows from the Lake Ypacaray, discharges its waters into the Paraguay. The country around the lake and bor- dering this little river is populous and fertile ; during a season of extreme drought the Salado is slightly brackish, as its name indi- cates. At QuatrosBocas "Four mouths," four miles above the rock Pinon, the character of the banks on either side is the same, but some distance inland the scenery changes. There is in view a 9 130 WOODS OF PARAGUAY. sierra, or beautiful range of high land, which is known to extend easterly from the Paraguay nearly to the Parana. Near the Gruardia Arigutigua, twenty miles from Asuncion, the "Pirebeby" flows into the Paraguay, and forms the southern bound- ary of an estate belonging to President Lopez, which has its north- ern limit on the River Paraguaymi. This estancia extends four- teen unbroken miles on the Paraguay, is particularly fertile, and well stocked with horned cattle and sheep ; mandioca and corn are cultivated upon it to a limited extent, as provision for the cap- itaz and peons manager and laborers. Two miles above Pirebe- by, and about the same distance inland, is the little town of " Am- buscada," at the foot of the sierra. In latitude 24 54' 32" south, longitude 57 21' 15," forty miles from Asuncion, we reached the first point at which the wood-cut- ters agreed to furnish us with fuel for the steamer. I found them punctual to the time, and the wood was all corded, and conven- iently placed for being received on board. The bunkers were half full of coal, but we were able to take in thirty-nine cords. In this lot were some ten or a dozen varieties: the Palo bianco, Curupi- na, Curupay, Arahan, Yrapipe, Espina de Corona, Yrapita, ISTanga- pare, and many others of fine texture are found throughout this country, such as the Algorroba, Espinilla, and Quebracho, or "axe- breaker," as its name indicates. fAll of these trees furnish good fuel for steamers, but in ship-building or for ornamental purposes they would be invaluable. Some of them are giants even in the La Plata forests ; others present great floral beauty ; some are valued for their fruits, oth- ers for their barks ; indeed, familiar as I am with the woodlands of the northern section of this hemisphere, as we advanced in the ascent of the river, I was filled with wonder at the surpassing wealth of the forest regions of the south. An accomplished arborist would find in Paraguay an unlimited field of interest and study. The fruits of the Arahan and Nangapare are both pleasant and nutri- tious. The Algorroba, one of the mimosae, produces a fruit simi- lar in taste (though smaller) to our honey -pod. It contains a quan- tity of saccharine matter, and is carefully gathered by the Indians, who dry, pound, and preserve it in skins ; they also make from it a fermented liquor of which they are very fond, but to me it was unpalatable. This tree flourishes in the Argentine Confederation, where its fruit, considered very precious food for cattle, is gather- ed, and generally put aside for favorite horses. These animals THE PRESIDENT'S ESTANCIAS. 131 when fed upon it, if not severely exercised, become too fat for ac- tive service. The width of the river at this point, as ascertained by the mi- crometer, is one thousand and seventy -six yards. Its general width from Asuncion to this place is from a half to one mile ; least depth twenty feet, greatest seventy -two. The banks have an elevation of fifteen feet at the present state of the water, which is four feet below the highest rise. They are well timbered ; the woodland extends some distance back, with intervening sections of palm and grass. Between the towns few houses are to be seen ex- cept the guardias, near which are always extensive estancias. Fourteen miles farther (latitude 24 48' 27") we passed another estancia of President Lopez, called Capiepomo Guazu. The dwell- ing is in the usual style of the better class of country houses in Paraguay, of one story, very capacious, and built round a court ; it stands about half a mile from the river, in the midst of a palm plain, skirted with magnificent and lofty trees. The corrals upon these estates are an invariable evidence of the wealth of the estan- ciaro, and here they were large and numerous. We anchored as the sun was sinking below the horizon in a sea of gorgeous tinges; and as night approached, with little or no inter- val of twilight, flocks of sheep, by thousands, might be seen gath- ering under the shelter of the corrals. The number of horned cat- tle on some of these estancias is enormous, and, with a free com- munication to the Atlantic, we can understand how great a revenue they would afford. Found at our anchorage forty-eight feet of water, the width of the river being half a mile, the least depth twenty-four feet; current at anchorage two and a half miles per hour. Engaged a bullock and a quantity of fresh milk for an early hour the next morning. The cows are milked but once a day in the morning always. The capitaz would receive no pay for either, and, on inquiring, found that this was in accordance with the orders of the President. This is only one of what I consider a series of national civilities, offered with a delicacy which reflects high honor upon his excellency. Indeed, government hospitality represents a characteristic of the Paraguayans. A more generous, single-hearted people it is impossible to find, and they have a native tact which rarely offends even the conventional ideas of those who have associated' more with the outer world. Much as I was obliged afterward to disapprove and deprecate the course of President Lopez toward the Americans who had set- 132 LOPEZ'S HOSPITALITY. tied in Asuncion, and in the unprovoked attack upon the Water Witch while ascending the Parana, the reception of the expedition in his waters, and his entire course toward us, until his outbreak with the consul, was characterized throughout by generous hos- pitality. At an early hour our bullock was dragged by the lasso from the corral to the river bank, and in an incredibly short time served up on board ship. We soon passed the grass-lands of Capiepomo, where the banks are low, and covered with forests of lofty trees ; parasites and epiphytes, with brilliant and fragrant bloom, entwine .themselves around the huge trunks, here presenting a floral col- umn, there running over branches, and from tree to tree, forming hanging gardens. To complete the enchantment, birds of gay plumage flit about, enlivening the woods with their merry songs. We passed another estancia near the Gruardia Caraguatay. The left bank again rises to the height of fifteen feet, and is well wood- ed ; beyond, a boundless plain of palms aud grass. Saw many fowl, among which were ihePato real "KoyalDuck," and.Z%wa bay u Snake-head." The starboard crank-strap broke, and we an- chored to repair damages. In an hour we were under way, and passed the mouth of the Eiver Quarepoti, seventy-two miles from Asuncion. On this stream, three miles from the Paraguay, is the town of Eosario, but hid from our view by the woods. Passing an estancia of .General Lopez, son of the President, and commander-in- chief of the army, we anchored off the Piquete Ytati, our second ddpot of wood, one hundred and two miles from Asuncion. The President's orders were carried out as to the quantity and size of this wood, and there was a punctuality in its supply which, I feel assured, without his instructions, neither love nor money could have procured. I found here fifty -two cords well cut and put up ; a familiar sight to us, but a novel one to Paraguayans. Our experience demonstrates fully not only the possibility of ob- taining abundance of wood in these waters for steamers, but the fact of its superiority to all used similarly in our own country. In running from 5 to 10 o'clock A.M. five hours and from 1 to 5f P.M. in all, nine hours forty-five minutes we consumed five and a quarter cords of wood, a little more than half a cord per hour, keeping up twenty pounds of steam, making from eighteen to twenty revolutions, and giving a speed of six miles over the bottom, against a current of from two to two and a half miles per hour. An accurate account of the consumption and careful meas- FRUITS AND PLANTS. 133 urement of the wood were kept and made by the senior engineer, R. C. Potts, with the view of testing its quality. The result proved what I have before affirmed, that a cord of this wood was fully equal to a ton of the best anthracite coal. The width of the river at our anchorage by micrometer was six hundred and nineteen yards ; the general width from our last an- chorage from a third to a quarter of a mile; least depth of water seventeen feet. Employed the morning while wooding in a stroll through the forest skirting the river, from which our supply of fuel had been cut, in search of botanic specimens. Gathered a few, among which was the Guayava blanca, a shrub bearing a beautiful white flower very like the orange blossom ; its fruit is delicious, and its twigs were covered with nodules of white wax, deposited by a species of ant in such quantities that the people of the country collect it and mould it into candles. We saw also the lofty Yarumu, or Hiva- puru, which bears a violet-colored fruit about the size of a plum, and much liked by the natives ; we thought it indifferent. It is directly attached to the trunk and branches, without a peduncle. Saw numberless epiphytes ; they are found in every part of La Plata, and generally near a dead tree, around which they entwine themselves, making what would be otherwise an unsightly skele- ton the most beautiful object of the forest. This is a favorite plant in all city gardens, requiring no care, as it finds its nutriment in the air. Some are selected for their brilliant flowers, others for their fragrance, which exceeds in delicacy that of most flora. Having wooded, pushed on, and about two and a half miles above the Piquete Ytati, passed the mouth of the Jejui, a small river which flows from the left bank. It rises in the Cordilleras of Paraguay, courses through a part of the Yerbales, and offers an easy communication for the conveyance of this product to San Pedro. After the construction of the small steamer, it was used by Lieu- tenant Ammen in the examination of this stream, but, as he ascend- ed at the season of low water, he found it impracticable to proceed farther than a few miles beyond the port of San Pedro, latitude 24 5' 26", longitude 57 13' 1". The village of San Pedro is two miles north of the port. The note-book of Lieutenant Ammen in reference to it says : " We had a succession of sand-bars up to this port, on an aver- age one to every four hundred yards. A steamer navigating the river even to San Pedro should not have a length greater than 13-1 AN ACCIDENT. eighty feet, should be flat floored, and be capable of making eight statute miles, the average current being equal to three and a half. Arrived at the port of San Pedro April 16th, 1854 ; visited the commandante, who received me with every possible kindness, and supplied me with horses to go to the villa of San Pedro, two marine miles due north. "We were met by Don Louis Cara, the priest, the captain of the port, and ten or twelve others. They expressed a desire to visit the vessel. After an examination into and explanation of every thing, we accompanied these personages to the villa, and stopped at the house of Don Louis Cara. The day following, the vessel was overrun with visitors. The commandante gave us a grand ball that night, at which all the ladies wore shoes. The authorities and grandees were overwhelming in their polite- ness. On the day after the ball, with a party consisting of the officials and the ladies on board, we proceeded on, taking the canoe in tow for their return. They went up with us a mile, and left, highly gratified that they had seen a steamer function." My own journal says, "November 10th. Observed on the bank a wooden cross; was informed by the pilot that it was the grave of a poor woman who had died there suddenly. Surely we, in our boasted civilization, might borrow from the primitive customs of this country ; no grave, however humble the former position of its occupant, is here unmarked by this symbol of Christianity. For the second time since leaving Asuncion the engine is ' hors de combat' by the breaking of another crank strap. While this damage was repair- ing we went on shore, and making our way up the bank (which was here about fifteen feet above the water), and through an al- most impenetrable fringe and network of vegetation, we spent the few remaining hours of daylight in searching for specimens. Col- lected a few plants, among which was the Ouaycura rembiu, a creep- er, bearing a pretty white, waxlike flower ; its fruit is highly es- teemed by the Indians, who collect it when green, and roast it. When ripe it bursts its shell, and exposes beautiful and delicate silklike fibres, to each of which is a seed. " November \\tli. Under way at eight o'clock this morning, hav- ing made a strap with the best iron on board, one of the awning stanchions. The government owns extensive estancias and im- mense herds, which furnish the army with beef. For some hours this morning we were steaming past one of these estancias, well stocked with the finest cattle : it is known as Estancia Potreropora. RIVER CHANGES. Found here a large quantity of wood conveniently corded. Wher- ever the pampa is unbroken by a mountain spur, or the banks pre- sent a sectional view of their formation, they show a stratum of white clay, with a surface-soil of rich black earth from two to four feet in depth. " Anchored near the Piquete Car uy parti, and off the estancia of Don Francisco Antonio Garcia, near which is the port Piedrenal. The following morning detained by a rain, which here not only pours, but falls in sheets. Measured the river by micrometer, and found it to be one thousand one hundred and seventy yards wide. Caught some fish, the pacu, the best in these waters. In six hours from Puerto Piedrenal we arrived at the town of Con- cepcion. In the depth of river and character of its banks up to this place found no material change save at the island Toro, about five miles from Puerto Piedrenal, where there are two islands, the one near the Chaco side formed since 1842. The channel has shift- ed more to the east, and has fifteen feet water, the least depth as yet found between Asuncion and Concepcion. "Many seals have been seen during the last two days. There is one feature in the character of these rivers worthy of note the apparent inclination of the waters to encroach upon the east bank ; a question suggests itself, Has the revolution of the earth any agen- cy in this change ? The newly -formed islands are uniformly on the Chaco side ; so far, the channel inclines undeviatingly to the east. If influenced by the earth's' revolution, the effect should be as it here appears. Kising in the equatorial regions, and coursing south through a vast extent of pampa, this river, in conjunction with the Parana, presents the fairest opportunity of arriving at a solution of this question. Ten miles below Concepcion we passed through a narrow arm of the river on the east, at this time the main channel ; it has a depth of twenty-two feet, and a width of from sixty to seventy yards. The water is fast deserting the old bed of the river, which, though half a mile wide, has scarcely depth enough for a boat. We passed the mouth of the Ypane, about five miles below Concepcion ; though it rises in the distant sierras of Paraguay, it is only navigable for boats. Directly opposite its mouth is the Eiacho Lingua Passo, formed by an island of the same name. This riacho was in 1842 the main channel, which is now east of it another evidence of the movement of the river in that direction. "As we approach Concepcion the formation of the bed of the 136 CONCEPCION. river changes, and the channel is contracted by rocks on either side. There is, however, neither danger nor difficulty in the navigation, for we found never less than twenty feet water. " Anchored in front of the town, and by measurement ascer- tained the river to be at its narrowest point three hundred and forty-four yards ; velocity of current two and a half miles per hour; temperature of air at meridian 81, of water 84. Found here two small craft taking in yerba for Asuncion." CHAPTER IX. Concepcion. Yerba. Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade. , Favorable Reception. Guembe and Guembetaya. The Water Witch. A Ball at the Commandante's House. A Quandary. Danced down. Senor Tachiera. Costumes. Wood for Steamer. Rio Saladillo. Salinas. T- Indians. The Caciques. A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke. PalmForest. Salvador. Heat. State of the Country. The Abatiguaniba. Caraguatay Guazu. Manufactures of its Thread. Thorns converted into Needles. The Datil. ^Reptile Hunting. Supplies. Value of Hide. Piquete Arracife. Heat. Paso Melo. Mount- ed Indians from the Chaco. Piquete Judiarte. Guardia Apatuya. Beautiful Scenery. The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu. The Children of the Gran Chaco. Equestrian and Pedestrian. Size, Strength, and Longevity. An Octogenarian in the Flower of his Age. Nabidigua. TheMbayas. Their Slaves. The Gua- rani. Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines. No Word for God or Divinity. Ahar- aigichi. Jupa. Inferior Creatures or not ? CONCEPCION, in latitude 23 23' 56", longitude 57 80' 89", con- tains about two thousand inhabitants, and stands on a plain, which, at the ordinary height of the river, 13 twenty feet above its level. It was at one period a flourishing town, and should now be an im- portant port for the export of yerba and caoutchouc, but the policy of the Paraguayan government, in monopolizing the trade in all native products of value, tends to check any spirit of enterprise which might tempt individuals or companies to build up a com- merce in these articles. All trade is centralized at Asuncion. The government is the principal merchant, in virtue of its own decree, and the prices paid by this factor are not sufficiently re- munerative to induce laborers to enter the field, fruitful as it is. There areYerbales, or "Yerba Districts," in the interior, some sixty or seventy miles from Concepcion, to which place their product is transported in ox- wagons. In the gathering and preparation of this yerba for market, there are two modes of procedure ; either to instruct the commandante 137 CUBING YEEBA. of the district to enter the yerbales with the force at his command, or to grant permission to certain contractors to do so. In the first case, the laborers are paid in goods from the public stores at the rate of twenty -five cents the arroba ; in the latter, the agent or contractor delivers at Asuncion two thirds of the whole quantity, packed in hide sacks, containing eight arrobas each, called tercias : he bearing all the expenses of labor, transportation, and cost of the hides for the tercias. This yields a handsome income to his Excellency. The export amounts annually to not less than ninety thousand arrobas, and he sells it at about four dollars the arroba ; he therefore receives about three hundred and sixty thousand dol- lars from this one article, and without the expenditure of a dollar ; to which should be added a revenue from hides, timber, horse- hair, etc., amounting also to a large sum.* There is no restriction on the home consumption, but the mer- chant who wishes to export this " tea" must purchase from the state. The rulers of this fine country have many valuable les- sons to acquire in political and financial science. By opening * The process of preparing the yerba will be found fully detailed in Lieut. Powell's "Journal of a Tour through the Yerbales of Paraguay. " See Appendix E. 138 NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. their waters to foreign flags, and encouraging home industry, even in the collection of indigenous products, and without the application of agriculture, the revenue from import and export duties would far exceed that of any monopoly now usurped. Under the present system, there is a stagnation of all trade at this place, and the people are poor, and evidently inert, but, like all Paraguayans, hospitable. We can only hope that the reac- tionary spirit which has crept into the Argentine Confederation, and the enlightened ambition of General Urquiza to elevate his country, politically and socially, by a liberal constitution, educa- tion of its youth, and direct foreign trade, will prove contagious, and work their course toward the northern republic of La Plata. Soon after anchoring I called -at the commandante's, where I met the principal personages of the place, who were emphatic in their offers of service, seeming to consider 'it a point of national honor to give us a distinguished reception. Isolated as the Para- guayans have been, they are animated, I observed, by a strong nationality, intense love of country, though not awakened to any application of its surpassing natural wealth to the requirements of trade. To express appreciation of Paraguay, we discovered, was a sure avenue to the hearts of these people ; and this tribute we could offer them in all truth and sincerity. Horses were ten- dered us, with the assurance that they would continue at our dis- posal while we remained at Concepcion ; and, as sailors rarely de- cline such an opportunity of exercise, we availed ourselves of the tempting favor, and visited the adjacent country, which is flat, sandy, and uninteresting. We passed an indifferent house here and there, surrounded with little and poor cultivation, but collected a few plants, among which was the parasite guembepi or guembe. I pulled one from the limb of a quebracho, thirty feet from the ground, to which its tendrils had descended, and taken root in the earth. This is one of the most useful plants in Paraguay, for from its fibre is manufactured an admirable rope, of which all the hawsers and tow-lines used by vessels in the river-trade are made ; indeed, be- fore the Eevolution, it was extensively used in the navy of Spain. The guembe and the guembetaya are so similar in appearance that they are often confounded, but they have very different characteristics, as I ascertained by observation, which was con- firmed by information derived from an intelligent Paraguayan, who had given some attention to the natural products of his coun- THE GUEMBE AND THE GUEMBETAYA. 139 try, and who had opportunities of observing these plants at all seasons. The guembe is valuable for its bark only, the guembe- taya for its fruit. The latter takes root in the earth, generally near some large tree, around which it will entwine, and climb to the utmost branches with such a grasp as not unfrequently to destroy it. It bears a beautiful trumpet-shaped flower of a deli- cate straw-color, which is succeeded by a fruit highly prized by the Indians. It is similar in appearance and taste to Indian corn, and is prepared and used by the natives in the same manner for bread. I had an opportunity of seeing both these plants growing, and have been thus particular in drawing the distinction between them, because Azara, generally an excellent authority, so far as he touches upon the botany of La Plata, speaks only of the guem- be, and assigns to it the characteristics of both plants. "While off Concepcion, the Water Witch was an object of great curiosity and interest, not only to the inhabitants of the town, but to those of the surrounding country ; for none except a few who had visited Ascension when a steamer a rare sight even there happened to be in port had ever before seen one. People from a long distance in the interior flocked to see the wonderful bark. Men, women, and children crowded on board, and would sit for hours under the awning of the deck, seemingly astonished and delighted at all they saw, and eagerly questioning the old Grua- rani pilot as to the meaning of many things to them so incompre- hensible. We were invited on the first evening of our arrival to a ball at the commandante's, where were assembled all the beauty and dis- tinction of the place. The floor of the ball-room was of tile, the lights tallow ; indeed, there was little to meet a cosmopolitan standard of elegance, but- the good-breeding and native tact of the people made it an occasion of enjoyment to us all. There is no village or region of the earth so small or remote as not to have its "upper, ten." The knowledge of this fact placed me in a di- lemma. Being the "Senor Commandante," I was expected to select, as a partner for the waltz, the most distinguished lady present. When all looked alike, it was impossible to discrimi- nate : a mistake would have been a national insult. In this quandary, I placed myself in the hands of the commandante, who dashed off to a formidable row of females at the upper end of the room, from whence he brought forth a partner, assuring me she danced divinely. This I could not doubt, for what woman ia 140 A BALL AT CONCEPCION. Spanish America can't waltz, and waltz well ? but was she one of a class so often found in this country, that "never tires ?" The music began ; off we started, followed by the officers of the Water Witch, and all the belles and beaux of the town. Round and round, whirl and whirl "Bravo, Senor Comman- dante !" the invariable exclamation of our host as we passed began to sound faintly in my ear; on, on we flew; I no longer sup- ported the lady ; she carried me round. Was I about to realize the theory of perpetual motion ? Sights and sounds were grow- ing dim and confused, when, perhaps aroused by the noisy "bravo" of the commandante, I gathered my failing strength, broke away from the fair lady, and beat a retreat from the room. I was fairly danced down. When I returned after a few moments' absence, the senorita had found another partner, and was whirling again, looking as fresh and smiling as if just beginning the dance. The refreshments consisted of cakes, red wine, cana, and, above all, the important and refreshing mate. The following evening was passed in a similar manner at the house of " Senor Tachiera," a Brazilian. Senor Tachiera had been a detenu of Fraiicia, and spoke feelingly of his efforts, and the con- suming desire, during that detention, to return to Brazil. At last he -resigned himself to his fate, married a Paraguayan, and had a large family around him. "Now," said he, "I have taken deep root in the soil, and shall never see Brazil again." Indeed, the laws oblige him, even now, to take root in the soil, or " abandon his wife ;" for no woman can leave the country without permission of the President, a favor not easily obtained. He gave me a small box of the resin of the "Palo Santo" for the President of the United States, neatly put up and accompanied by a note, which I forwarded by the first opportunity to the Navy Department. This kind-hearted Brazilian and his family were indefatigable in their efforts to amuse us: the daughter danced and smoked with a vivacity that were charming ; for the usages of the coun- try make smoking admissible to all, men, women, and children : and dancing is the amusement of Spanish America. These simple hospitalities are recalled as agreeable social remi- niscences of life in that interior country, and were, at the time, a pleasant relief from the labors of the expedition. We were astonished to find the women of these remote regions 3D handsomely and appropriately dressed; and, in contradiction FIREWOOD AND TIMBER. 141 to all previous reports, their pretty feet were covered with, shoes and stockings. In fact, there is no fever so contagious as fashion ; and as there was a rumor that the President's daughters drew upon French art, can it be doubted that the fair ladies of Concepcion had received an inspiration from those importations ? Occasion- ally in these parts, so distant from Asuncion, the centre of Para- guayan distinction, we see a costume of Francia's time, the short jacket and vest scarce covering the shoulder-blade, and the point- ed hat from fourteen to sixteen inches high ; but an individual who should appear at the capital in such a costume would incur the indignation of the President and the openly-expressed ridicule of all. Concepcion was one of the points at which I expected wood, and I found sixty cords of the best quality well cut and corded. In this lot no less than twelve persons were interested, but they permitted us to receive it at our own measurement. Four dollars per cord was the price demanded. In a land of endless forests, this was perhaps too much; but it was cheap fuel when it is considered that with it the steamer was run at the rate of two dollars the hour. It was a new business to these people, and I could afterward have contracted for any quantity at the rate of from two and a half to three dollars the cord. When a trade shall spring up with Brazil and Bolivia via the Paraguay, tHe cut- ting and sale of wood at this point will of itself give profitable employment to hundreds of the inhabitants of this town. "On the 15th," says my journal, "we were again under way. Crowds of people assembled on the banks to see the Water Witch move under steam/". Soon passed a salina salt-field. The water is not affected; to the taste it is pure. Arroyo la Patria is a wide riacho ten miles above Concepcion, which extends about twelve miles into the Chaco. On its banks are noble trees of la pacho and quebracho, considered the hardest and most durable of all the arboreal treasures of Paraguay. They would be invaluable for ship-building, and small quantities are cut for this purpose annu- ally for the government, and transported to Asuncion. The banks of the Paraguay are here on both sides low and marshy, but some distance inland well wooded. Near the mouth of the Eio Saladil- lo is a rock in mid-channel ; on either side deep water. This is an unimportant stream, rising in the interior of Paraguay. At the season of low water it is so strongly impregnated with salt that it can not be drunk. The channel of the Paraguay a little above 142 INDIANS OF THE CHACO. here is diverted from what would seem to be the main bed of the river by rocky obstructions, and has taken a course west of the island Uriate, where it is deep, but narrow. Less than a mile above the island Zapepa, and about twenty from Concepcion, are salinas, and near them many huts of salt-gatherers. I am partic- ular in noting these instances of salinas and salados to the east, because most writers assert that they exist only west of the Para- guay and Parana. Thirty miles from Concepcion passed the mouth of the Arquidaban, which rises in the Cordillera Maricayu, and empties into a riacho of the same name." Four miles above, for the first time, we saw a number of In- dians on the Chaco side. Only a few presented themselves im- mediately on the bank, but we observed a large body half con- cealed they imagined wholly so by the long grass and palm. Accompanied by some of the officers and men, all armed, to show that we were prepared to be either friends or enemies, I went on shore. The savages had placed their bows and arrows at a dis- tance, and ,as we landed one of them pointed to their cacique. Our Gruarani pilot called their attention to ' our cacique,' when a great shaking of hands took place, the Indians uttering deep gut- tural sounds. I gave the cacique a lighted cigar, of which he took a whiff, and passed it to his companions. Soon the whole party, men, women, and children, came rushing from their hiding-places, eager to shake hands with us. They were without paint or orna- ments- of any kind, and perfectly nude, except a small piece of cot- ton or woolen cloth, or skin of wild -animals, around the loins. They proved to be a part of the famous Lengua tribe : the men were good-looking; well made, and above the ordinary stature ; their eyes long, not unlike the Chinese, but larger ; the mouth wide. The women were disfigured by the hideous tattooing which is, according to Azara, their preparation for marriage. These In- dians have horses and sheep, cultivate a little corn and cotton, and their women spin with the distaff, and weave a coarse wool- en and cotton cloth. Hoping to satisfy the cacique that our intentions were pacific, and presuming that he would communicate this impression to other tribes with whom he might fall in, I invited him and some others to go on board the "Water Witch. It must have been to them a wonderful sight, for not only no steamer, but no vessel ap- proaching the size of our craft had ever before passed over these waters ; but not a sound or movement betrayed either astonish- HIGH LANDS. SALVADOR 143 merit, admiration, or fear on the part of the chief. Some of those who accompanied him had less command over themselves, and manifested a little uneasiness ; no persuasion could induce them to go below, after having been shown every thing on deck. We gave them a few trinkets, fish-hooks, cigars, with which they seem- ed pleased, offering us, in return, some balls of yarn spun by their women. The point in the Chaco at which we landed for a parley with these Indians was a verdant plain elevated some ten feet above the river, and studded inland with stately palms so far as the eye could reach. At the close of day we anchored fifty-two miles above Concep- cion, at a point where the Eiacho Kovia unites with the main river. Width one third of a mile ; least depth since leaving Concepcion, fifteen feet ; greatest, sixty of line, and ' ' no bottom. ' ' Temperature of the air at meridian, 92; water, 86. "November 16th. . Under way at an early hour this morning, and had made but little progress, when we came to the most extensive palm-forest as yet seen. It reached nine tmbroken miles along the Chaco bank, and extended back to the very verge of the hori- zon ; the grass was green and vigorous. At the termination of this plain the banks rise to the height of fifteen feet, covered for several miles with lapacho and quebracho. This is the greatest elevation we have met with since leaving Concepcion ; the more remarka- ble for being on the west. Saw another party of mounted Indians approaching the river at full speed, but they proved to be a part of the same tribe we had already seen, and wanted presents. " Before us the first rolling land.-^-in rear of the town of Salvador was seen since leaving Concepcion. The estancias and quintas of this range look well in the distance, and add much to the cheer- fulness and picturesque beauty of the country. The town stands half way up this ridge, which rises gradually from the water to the height of about one hundred feet, and forms a plateau extend- ing back about half a mile. The approach to it by the river is very pretty ; shore line crescent-shaped. Anchored in thirty feet water. " Salvador, in latitude 22 48' 45" south, longitude 57 54' 33" west, has about one thousand inhabitants, and is, by the course of the river, seventy miles from Concepcion, and the most northern town or settlement, except guardias, in Paraguay. Least depth of water to this place fifteen feet, and this at a season when the river is supposed to be eight feet above its lowest point and six 144 TEMPERATURE. CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. below its highest. We are now five hundred and twenty miles from the mouth of the Paraguay, and have encountered no obsta- cles to a clear and easy navigation of its waters. An experienced boatman of our Western rivers could discover, by inspection only, the course of deep water. The temperature of the water, 86, is a mean between the daily extremes of the atmosphere. Since leav- ing Concepcion the thermometer has ranged from 75 to 95, the minimum being at 3 A.M., rising and falling at both points with the influence of north and south winds. The heat is always more or less tempered by breezes. In our gradual approach to the equator we have perhaps become somewhat acclimated ; for, spite of the fatigue of watching ten or twelve hours of the twenty -four on the hurricane deck, where we are brought in close proximity to the smoke-stack, with only an ,awning to protect us from the effects of a vertical sun, we have not found the heat insufferable. Our thermometer, as much removed as possible from the influence of artificial heat, was no index to the temperature of our working position, selected for the purpose of giving an uninterrupted view of the river and adjacent country." . Soon after anchoring we visited the commandante. In the at- tentions paid to us here, and at every point on the river, the influ- ence of government orders is apparent. Our arrival was evident- ly anticipated by instructions from the capital, and both officials and villagers offered us every facility in the prosecution of our work. Apart from this influence, the inhabitants of Paraguay manifest an unmistakable disposition to exercise hospitality toward strangers. Though surrounded by great natural advantages, the people of Salvador are poor. Their condition is a silent but expressive re- proach to the policy of Paraguayan rulers ; for to supply their im- mediate and absolute wants, and to meet punctually the exactions of the government, are all they are taught or permitted. I ac- cepted the commandante's offer of horses, and, accompanied by several of the officers of the Water Witch, rode over the neigh- boring country. The estancias were small, and the stock neither in number nor quality very great ; the soil, though sandy, seemed to be highly adapted to the most varied products. Corn, rice, sugar-cane, tobacco, mandioca, water-melons, cabbages, pumpkins, and several varieties of beans were growing luxuriantly. The rice was the upland species, cultivated in rows, at an elevation of eighty feet above the water ; it required no irrigation, and prom- THE CARAGUATAY GUAZU. 145 ised an abundant harvest. The indigenous products of this region are also valuable. The wild maize, the Abatiguaniba of the Gua- rani, is a bountiful provision of nature, for it is parched or pound- ed into meal by the natives, and much liked by them when made into bread. The grain is not unlike millet, with blades one third of the width of common Indian corn. In this vicinity the most useful species of the aloe tribe abounds, the Caraguatay guazu : from its filamentous tissues the people of the country make ropes, fishing-lines, etc. Careful experiments have proved it to be both stronger and more durable for cordage than hemp, while, at the same time, it may be manufactured into the finest fabrics. The Spaniards used it for caulking, and pre- ferred it to every other material ; and Don Josef de Bustamente y Guerra, a friend and contemporary of Azara,* experimented with ropes of it and of hemp the latter made at a Spanish arsenal and his trial proved that of caraguatay to be the stronger. Under the direction of the Jesuits, the Indians spun and wove it into cloth, and, according to Dobrizhoffer, such beautiful stock- ings were made of its thread, that in France, both for strength and softness, they were preferred to silk ; but he also tells us that " no time or art can make these threads white, nor will they hold color." We -have only to remember that this intelligent Jesuit wrote more than a century ago, and that now art. and science, applied to man- ufactures, seem to make all things possible. The Styrian Father continues in his quaint style to dwell upon the uses of the different species of this plant : " Their leaves supply the place of flax in making thread. The Indians look upon the various fruits of the caraguatay as food. From their leaves, when scraped with a knife, flows a sweet liquor, which is thickened on the fire, and condensed into sugar. This liquor of the caraguatay, mixed in water with the seeds of oranges or lemons, undergoes a vinous fermentation ; exposed to the sun, it turns to vinegar. By what method and in what cases wounds are healed by the juice of the caraguatay would be long to tell. A polypodium, preferable in the opinion of physicians to any Euro- pean one, grows on the caraguatay." In this vicinity is found the " datil," one of the numerous palms. * Azara : " Mon ami Don Josef de Bustamente y Guerra, fit fabriquer avec du caraguata un bout de corde de la grosseur du pouce ; et 1' ay ant compare avec un autre de la meme grosseur, fabrique dans nos arsenaux avec du chanvre, celui de caraguata se trouva plus fort." 10 146 EEPTILE HUNTING. USES OF HIDES. Its fruit grows in clusters, looking like a colossal bunch of grapes ; the outer shell is thin, and envelops a sweet, yellowish, stringy substance, of which the natives are very fond, covering a nut about an inch in diameter, containing the kernel from which the oil is extracted either by pressure or boiling. The appearance and size of this nut are similar to that of the filbert, and in taste it is very like the cocoanut. Although little accustomed to trade, we found the people quite ready to dispose of any article for cash. I employed a boy to pro- cure reptiles, and for this purpose gave him two large specimen- jars half filled with cana, charging him to omit no species, how- ever common in the country. He soon returned with a quantity of diminutive toads, enough to have stocked every collection in the United States. I discontinued his services, but found that I had started a new branch of trade in Salvador, for a goodly por- tion of the population turned out reptile-hunting ; and had I not left the following day, I might unintentionally have worked one of the miracles of Saint Patrick for this neighborhood. In a climate where the thermometer ranges from 76 to 96 the lightest clothing is alone comfortable ; many altogether despise this essential of civilization; and half-grown boys and girls, whose limbs had never been girded, ran about the country, or, plunging into the river as if it were their natural element, swam around the Water Witch, looking as innocent and unconscious as our first pa- rents before the fall. Having received wood and supplies of fresh provisions, consist- ing of molasses, beef, figs,' chickens, eggs, corn, milk, mandioca, cabbages, onions, and pumpkins, we bade adieu to the people of the town, who came down to see us off to wish us success and a speedy return. The molasses, made in the neighborhood, was of excellent quality, and we paid for it at the rate of twelve and a half cents a gallon. I purchased a quantity for the ship's compa- ny, which was brought on board in an ox-hide, having its four corners drawn together and fastened so that it could be ^ swung upon a pole and carried by two men. It was poured into some empty casks in the " spirit-room," and the hide returned to the men who brought it. They expressed much astonishment at our generosity, and evidently considered it of more value than the mo- lasses. We hadbeen too long in the country not to have discov- ered that, though abounding in wood and iron, hide was the favor- ite substitute for both, as well as for rope and a variety of other ASCENT OF THE RIVER. PASO MALO. 147 articles considered by us essentials in the ruder mechanical arts. If yerba, the staple of the country, is to be transported thousands of miles, it is neither packed in barrels nor boxes, but in hide bags (tercias), sewed up with strips of the same material. There was a little craft at the landing, receiving on board hides and yerba, the only articles of trade from Salvador. The "yer- bales" are seventy miles from this place, but, owing to the monop- oly of their product by the government,, the population in the vi- cinity of them has diminished, and the annual shipment decreased from six hundred thousand arrobas to fifty thousand. " Under way," says my journal. " Have advanced three and a half miles, and are passing a government estancia extending three leagues on the river, and containing a herd of six thousand head of horned cattle, some hogs and sheep ; the two first very supe- rior, the sheep indifferent. These government estancias are to be found in every part of Paraguay, but more particularly along the river and in the vicinity of guardias. Seven miles above Salva- dor, encountered a ledge of rocks which extends across two thirds the width of the river, forcing the channel on the Chaco side. There is no appearance of rock formation on either bank, both be- ing here low and marshy. This characteristic continues for five miles to Piquete Arracife, in latitude 22 45' 33", and longitude 57 57' 31", distant from Asuncion two hundred and sixty-two miles. Except piquetes and guardias, there is not, beyond, a sin- gle habitation on Paraguay territory, and this is the last place at which we have contracted for the delivery of wood. " The weather to-day, November ~L7th, has been intensely hot, thermometer ranging from 75 at three A.M. to 99 at three P.M. ; at midnight thermometer showed 86, and at six A.M. 79, the wind being north and northwest, the point whence come winds charged with the radiated heat of a vast pampa. The fires of the furnace having been extinguished while wooding at midday, the reading of the thermometer at three P.M. was uninfluenced by any current of artificial heat. Half a mile below Arracife is a ledge of rocks on either side of the channel, but navigation is neither impeded nor endangered by them. " One mile above is Paso Mob " Bad Pass," so called from there being less water than at any point between Asuncion and Albuquerque ; and yet, even here, the least depth is twelve feet, and this we found at only two casts of the lead, equivalent to six feet when the river is at its lowest state. Both banks continue 148 WAELIKE INDIANS. low, with extensive plains of palm and grass on the, Chaco side. Advanced twelve miles ; the river turns east, and the Sierra Yta- pucumini, which is first seen in the distance at Piquete Tobas, six miles below, terminates on the left bank, in a bluff of limestone forty feet high, covered with a growth of valuable woods. This wooded limestone plateau continues for some miles on the east bank, while the opposite or Chaco side presents the same low plain of palms. The Sierra Ytapucumini is a continuation of the distant high lands first seen in approaching Salvador. All the limestone used at Asuncion, and other places on the river, is taken from this neighborhood." Five miles above Arracife, while running close to the right bank, we saw a host of mounted Indians in the distance. They came dashing at a full gallop over the plain, looking like Cen- taurs, as they gracefully guided their horses through the windings of a dense palm forest, and undeviatingly directed their course to the river, without for an instant checking speed. On they came, men and women, in all their nudity ; no garments of any descrip- tion, except a piece of stuff about the loins ; neither paint nor or- naments, neither saddles nor bridles, but controlling their animals with a rude rein of hide passed over the lower jaw, and confined by a thong of the same material. Arrived on the bank, they made signs for a "talk." The steamer was stopped, and some of us landed. They proved to be a part of one of the most warlike tribes, the Angaite, and were noble-looking creatures, above the ordinary stature, and well formed : their teeth were white and regular ; hair luxuriant, and cut square upon the forehead. "We gazed with interest upon these savages, for the warlike Chaco tribes have alone, amid the degradation and extirpation of the nations of their race upon the American continent, defied, for more than three centuries, the power of the white man. They still maintain their wild independ- ence, not in intricate and inaccessible passes of mountain ranges not in great sterile plains, or among death-exhaling morasses, where the ingenuity or industry of the white man could obtain no remunerative return, but over a vast domain of two hundred thousand square miles, spreading out into noble forests of precious woods, lovely plains, accessible by navigable rivers, and irrigated by hundreds of their tributary streams ; a land not figuratively, but literally flowing with milk and honey.* They have a salu- * The honey of the Chaco is celebrated in La Plata. COURSE OF THE EIVER. 151 brious climate ; a remedio, in their indigenous products, for every disease and wound ; amid a perfection of vegetal beauty, they live, attaining a longevity almost Unknown to the white man, without the physical decay of his old age. After a talk, and presents of tobacco and beads, we left them, with a promise, on their part, to meet us on our return, with skins / of wild animals, specimens, etc. ; but we never saw them again. "Four miles to the Piquete Judiarte; river more tortuous, winding through twenty points of the compass. This piquete is twenty-two miles from Salvador by the river, and nine by land. Extensive palm plains begin on the east, and disappear on the west. I have observed that rarely or never do those plains ap- pear on both banks at the same time. At the Yuelta Caapucu the course of the river is diverted by rocky obstructions, and the west bank becomes more elevated. After passing the last piquete, the Sierra Caapucu may be seen at intervals at some distance in the interior. Twenty miles above, it approaches the Paraguay, and presents a precipitous rocky bluff, known to the natives as Piedra Partida ' Freestone.' This range extends five miles on the river, and throughout the whole distance is covered with fine timber. It then recedes again, and terminates about half a mile in the interior, in a beautiful cone Mount Pina Hermosa,* which is twenty-six miles from Piquete Judiarte. " November ISth. Continue to ascend ; in view upon the left, mountain ranges well timbered, contrasting strangely with the boundless palm plains of the right bank. At three points in this day's work have observed an inclination of the channel to the west ; the only deviation from an easterly direction, which it has heretofore maintained with great uniformity. May not this arise from the physical changes to which I have alluded, and the bar- rier which the rocky abutments of the east bank oppose to the working of the river in that direction ? " November 19th. "With intervals of a few minutes for meals, I have worked to-day incessantly for ten hours. This, with the debilitating influence of the weather, has produced excessive fa- tigue and lassitude. In these latitudes I believe the siesta is es- sential to vigorous health. Thermometer has ranged from 84 to 96 at 3 P.M. Wind N., N.E., and KW. At 6 P.M., wind S.E. ; thermometer 76 : the influence of the wind, in this in- stance, producing, in three hours, a change of temperature great- * So called from a stone of fine texture found in it. 152 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. er than is here caused by the seasons ; and this is the uniform result. " Passing a rocky bluff on the left bank, where stands the Guar- dia Apatuya: it is sixty miles above Salvador, and the last of these posts but one in approaching the northern frontier. " Having broken another crank strap, anchored two miles be- yond, at the mouth of the Eiacho Toldocue, which takes its name from a tribe of Indians that formerly occupied the adjacent coun- try. There is an absence of every mark of civilization, but the scenery is surpassingly beautiful ; the distant ranges and spurs of sierras on the left, although of no great height, present ever- vary ing landscapes ; and as the steamer passes her length upon the waters, picturesque views open upon us in the east with increased beauty. From our anchorage, a distant view of Mount Galvan. Cloudy weather prevents the usual observations for geographical determ- ination. " November 20th. Throughout this day the beauty of the face of the country has called forth the admiration of all on board. On both sides, mountains. On the east, the spurs of the Sierras Morada and Ytapucu Guazu, crowned with forests of noble tim- ber, approach -the river in precipitous sections of stratified rock, of from sixty to one hundred feet elevation, and inclose between them palm plains, with grass green and fresh as a hay -field in June. On the Chaco side, the lofty conical Galvan stands like a watch-tower over the plains. Isolated, it rises from a sea of palm and grass, which stretches easterly to the river, and on the north, south, and west to the verge of the horizon. "November 21st. Scenery continues very beautiful. On the east, the spurs of the sierras still approach and recede from the river, the dark verdure of their forests enameled by the brilliant flora of parasite and epiphyte. . Our crew, about fifty souls, many of them rude 'seamen ' they that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters' gaze around them in silence, and, from their unusually subdued manner, we may be- lieve with hearts touched by the wondrous beauties of creation hourly unfolded. They are many hundred miles from the sea, in a vessel diminutive, it is true, but one in which they had trav- ersed seven thousand miles of ocean before entering these waters. Their rugged natures are still disciplined by the laws and regula- tions of a national ship, ' afloat,' not upon the broad ocean, but upon a river ; not watching the sporting of the Great Leviathan, YTAPUCU GUAZU. 153 or the phenomena of a vast expanse of sea and sky, but cruising through verdant plains, flower-gardens, parks, forests of gigantic trees, mountain ranges, their wild grandeur contrasting impress- ively with the green fields nestling under and between them. There is a pervading woody aroma; all the depth and brilliant tints of tropical regions ; new and beautiful species of animal life swim across the steamer's track, or appear upon the banks, or dash through the bordering forest ; the day is enlivened by con- certs of birds of gay plumage ; the stillness of the night is broken by strange sounds from the shores, as if all animated life was startled by the appearance of this new force of civilization dis- turbing the solitude of their domain. TERMINATION OF A SPUR OF YTAPUCU GUAZU. " We have now in full view the rocky spurs of the Morada and the ' Ytapucu Guazu ;' they contain quarries of a sandstone of fine texture, said to be of unequaled quality when worked into hones for fine edged tools. On the Chaco side, small patches of pumpkins, but no Indian near them ; even on this limited scale it is the first cultivation we have seen on that bank. " Anchored off Gruardia Concluencia. It stands on the slope of a section of the * Ytapucu Guazu, 7 and is the northern frontier guardia of Paraguay, distant from Asuncion three hundred and fifty miles. The encroachments of Brazil and the hostilities of the Chaco Indians are here alike feared." 154 INDIANS OF THE CHACO. Soon after landing we received a visit from the commandante, who proudly speaks of his guardia as the northern key to the re- public. An irreconcilable feud seems to exist between the Para- guayans and the warlike Indians of the neighboring territory. The savages have few or no canoes, and rarely go upon the water ; but the Paraguayans owe their exemption from all hostile incur- sion less to the barrier which the river presents tham to the divi- sions and jealousies existing among the tribes, and to the absence among them of all arms that could be effective in invading the opposite country ; for, on foot, the bow and arrow, and, mounted, the lance, are still their only implements of war. The immensity of their territory and their nomadic habits render them, in return, safe from all pursuit. Mounted upon fleet horses, with their wives and children, and driving flocks and herds before them, they have only to plunge into the unexplored regions of their domain. Though the white population of La Plata dwell with enthusiasm upon the beauty and fruitfulness of the Chaco, few or none but the Jesuits have ever attempted to explore the mysteries of its interior. "We have for some days been passing the lands still occupied by Mbayas, Lenguas, Angaite, and Guanos, names famil- iar to us from the contests of their progenitors with the Spanish conquerors; "nations comprehending innumerable divisions, or small tribes, who add to their names with time, and, when ques- tioned on this subject, give the new additions without dispensing with the old. It is beyond question that the charts of the Jesuits scarcely have space for the insertion of their different names, so numerous ,are the tribes."* I should judge by my own observation, and from information given me by inhabitants of the country, that these unsubjugated Indians, with the exception of the domesticity of birds and quad- rupeds among them a thing unknown at the time of the Span- ish invasion still retain the habits and physical characteristics which the early writers upon this country, a little later the Jesu- its, and more recently Azara, have ascribed to them. A Jesuit divides them into "Equestrian" and "Pedestrian" tribes, but Azara more justly distinguishes them as "Warlike" and "Agri- cultural'." Though they are now, and were at the time of the Jesuitic influence, skillful horsemen, it was an art acquired from the Spaniards, who, as is well known, introduced the horse upon that section of the continent; agriculture was, at the time of the * Azara. THEIR PHYSICAL VIGOR. 155 invasion, pursued with success by some of the tribes, while oth- ers, warlike and ferocious, lived by the chase or fishing. Though many of them now possess horned cattle, sheep, and horses, except for the latter, which have, from habit, become nec- essary to them, they give to their increase little or no attention. Mounted, they course over the Chaco, preferring the precarious subsistence of the chase to pastoral or agricultural pursuits, which the fruitfulness of the soil, the fine natural pastures, and the con- stant recurrence of saliferous lands and waters would make so sure and easy a source of supply for all their physical necessities. The most extraordinary accounts are given by the Jesuits of the size, strength, and vigor of the warlike Chaco Indians. I have alluded to the Abipones, a few of whom, in a semi-civilized state, we saw near Santa Fe. Dobrizhoffer speaks of them as a nation of Masanissas. " If," says this author, " a man dies at eighty, he is lamented as if cut off in the flower of his age." He mentions men of a hundred mounting fiery horses like boys of twelve years; and adds, " Women generally live longer than men, because they are not killed in war." He procee4s to account for this lon- gevity without physical decay, and their organization, "muscu- lar," "robust," and "agile," which he ascribes somewhat to cli- matic influence, but still more to the instinctive avoidance by youth, both males and females, of licentious courses, and to tem- perance through life in food and all sensual gratification. What Tacitus says of the ancient Germans he applies to them : " Cibi simplices, agrestia poma, recens fera, aut lac concretum, sine appa- ratu, sine blandimentis expellunt famem." Azara, who wrote many years after the Styrian Jesuit, in speak- ing of Lenguas, Mbayas, and other warlike tribes, says, " Their height, the grandeur and elegance of their forms and their pro- portions are not equaled in the world." He refers constantly to Indians, vigorous, athletic, and possessing perfect hair and teeth, who had numbered several years over a century. A cacique of the Mbayas, Nabidigua, six feet two inches high, was, in 1794, asked his age. He replied, " I do not know ; but when the Cathedral in Asuncion was begun, I was married and had a son." This Cathedral was built in 1689, and, supposing the cacique to have been fifteen at the time of his marriage, he must have been, in 1794, one hundred and twenty years old, and yet he then " mounted his horse, handled his lance, went into war, or fol- lowed the chase with the youngest." 156 THE MBAYAS AND LENGUAS. Of all the tribes, the Mbajas continued to give most trouble to the white population, crossing the Paraguay and waging war for many years so successfully, to the very neighborhood of Asuncion, that the Spaniards were forced, in 1746, to conclude a formal treaty of peace with them. They are still seen in those parallels of the Chaco, 20 and 22 south, which they originally occupied, divided into tolderiaSj or wigwams. Azara, in writing of them at the close of the eighteenth century, says, " They had with them many Gua- nos, part of an agricultural tribe, who served them, cultivating their lands without remuneration ; for this reason the Mbayas call them their slaves, but their servitude is gentle, because the Guanos submit to it voluntarily and renounce it at will. Added to this, their masters give few orders, they never employ an imper- ative and obligatory tone, and they partake of all things, even their carnal pleasures, with the Guanos, for the Mbayas are not jealous." The Chaco was both the Elysium and Palestine of the Indians in that section of the continent. Undoubtedly occupied by indig- enous tribes, it yet became the hiding-place or refuge-home of all who fled from the Spaniards of Peru, or from those east of the central rivers, but, above all, from the Portuguese slave-hunters; " for there they had mountains for observatories, trackless woods for fortifications, rivers and marshes for ditches, and plantations of fruit-trees for store-houses."* And there their descendants still live, in wild independence, bidding defiance to the white popula- tion of the opposite shores of " La Plata." I have alluded to our parleys with Lenguas, or Guaycurus, and Anguites, and can add my testimony to the assertions of the Jes- uits and Spanish authors as to their extraordinary physical organ- ization, superior stature, teeth, perfection of limb ; those relating to their health and longevity without decay are fully confirmed by the people of the country. The Paraguay Eiver was generally, but not invariably, the boundary between the warlike and agricultural nations. The Guanos, to whom I have alluded as the slaves- or laborers of the Mbayas, were found west of the river, while the innumerable tribes comprehended in the Guarani nation occupied a large part of Brazil and the country east of the Paraguay and Parana. They possessed, at the time of the Spanish invasion, a compar- ative civilization, raising corn, rice, and many vegetables ; gather- * Dobrizhoffer. THE GUANOS AND GUARANIS. 157 ing wild honey and fruits, distilling a liquor which became popu- lar among the Spaniards, and cultivating cotton, from which they spun and wove a simple covering for their nakedness. Before the revolution, parties of Gruanos, in troops of fifty and a hundred, descended the Paraguay and Parana, going even to Bue- nos Ayres, where they hired themselves, for a limited period, to the estancieros ; always choosing to work by the task, leaving their arms with the alcalde on entering a village or district, and claim- ing them again when ready to return to the Chaco. The descend- ants of these agricultural Indians still go forth as laborers in the Argentine Confederation, returning at stated periods to their wilds. The Gruarani nation not only possessed a large part of the coun- try now known as Brazil and the basin of La Plata, east of the cen- tral rivers, from the sixteenth to the thirtieth degree- of latitude, but, crossing the upper waters of the Paraguay, they even penetra- ted west to the province of Chiquitos, where, at the foot of the An- des, numbers of them, under the name of Chiriguanos, were found. They acknowledged no one head or chief, but were divided into numerous small tribes, designated by the name of its cacique or the section of the country they happened to occupy; recognizable, however, not only by general characteristics, but by their language, precisely the same throughout the tribes of their nation, however geographically placed, and yet entirely different from all others of the many Indian idioms of the Southern continent. With a knowledge of Guarani, one could pass through the ex- tent of their territory; that is, travel through Brazil, enter Para- guay, descend to Buenos Ayres, and journey into Peru, without finding such changes in the language as might arise from local causes. But, if the most civilized and the most numerous of all the La Plata nations, so were they the most easily conquered, for warlike pursuits were distasteful to them. It- was among this people that the Spaniards formed their largest commanderies, the Jesuits their first neophytes; while vast numbers, not only the tribes occupying Brazilian territory, but those of the " reductions" of the Jesuits, were carried oft* by the Mamelucas. These Indians evinced a wonderful obedience and docility to the instructions of the Jesuits ; became, under their military training, excellent soldiers ; and, to the honor of the Fathers upon whom, notwithstanding, many of the Spanish writers have exhausted the asperities of their language gave evidence of such submission and 158 THEIR RELIGIOUS OPINIONS. fidelity to the Spanish monarchy that they participated in many of their wars, both against foreign and domestic foes, contributing largely to their victories, and saving them from injury, if not ex- tirpation, by more than one wide-spread and well-designed Indian insurrection ; services which were noticed in 1665 and 1666 by gracious letters from the " Catholic king," still preserved in the archives of Santa Fe. Amid all the humiliation and degradation of this aboriginal nation, one great triumph awaited it. In the western parts of Brazil, and in all Paraguay, their language was preserved, indeed substituted for that of the conquerors, and is to this day almost exclusively spoken in the latter country. Though entertaining rather absurd ideas of a spiritual existence, some few of the La Plata Indians believed in the immortality of the soul ; and we have seen that there was even a tradition, the ori- gin of which the Spaniards ascribed to the Jesuits, that St. Thomas had labored on the American continent. But both laymen and Jesuits unite in telling us that among many tribes they discovered no traces of a knowledge of God. The contemplation of terrestrial or celestial objects had never inspired them with an idea of a cre- ative Deity. Father Penafiel declares that many Indians, when questioned as to whether they had ever thought of the existence of a Supreme Being, replied, " No, never." DobrizhofTer, who com- pleted his theological course in the University of Cordova, says, " I finished the four years of theology commenced at Gratz in Styria, and defended warmly the opinion that no man in the pos- session of his reason can, without a crime, remain ignorant of God for any length of time. On removing thence to a colony of Abi- pones, I found, to my astonishment, that the whole language of these savages did not contain a single word which expresses God or Divinity." And yet these Abipones watched with reverence the appearance and disappearance of the Pleiades, as the repre- sentative of the common ancestor of Spaniard and Indian, the grandfather Aharaigichi, who transmitted gold and silver to the one and valor to the other. The Guaranis alone had a word for God, " Tupd" Tu, an expression of admiration ; pa, of interro- gation. This may explain, but not excuse, the extraordinary prejudices and inhumanities of the conquerors toward the indigenous inhab- itants of the south, whom they pretended to regard, notwithstand- ing their extraordinary physical beauty, as a species intermediate between man and brute. Such an opinion was not only obstinate- TREATMENT BY THE SPANIARDS. 159 1 y upheld by laymen, but by many learned and respectable eccle- siastics, who passed over to the new continent. Thomas Ortez, bishop of Saint Martha, addressed an elaborate article on the sub- ject to the Supreme Council of Madrid, stating that the experi- ence derived from a long and frequent intercourse with the In- dians led him to regard them " as stupid beings, incapable as brute beasts of comprehending our religion or observing its precepts." We know how able an apologist and defender rose up in the per- son of Bartolomeo de las Casas, who declared them fully capable of understanding all the truths of Christianity. Other ecclesias- tics considered them, an inferior creation, to whom could be ac- corded but one sacrament baptism. Las Casas boldly alleged that both of these positions were assumed only as an excuse for the atrocities exercised against the aborigines by the conquerors, and obtained in 1537 a bull from Paul III., declaring them human beings, who could receive all the sacraments of the Church. Pow- erful as were the popes of the sixteenth century, both in temporal and spiritual affairs, they could not vanquish the prejudice, real or pretended, of priests and laymen. Elaborate treatises were written to prove the inferiority of the Indian race ; and, for a cen- tury after the conquest of Peru, its curates, with the sanction of their bishops, persisted in refusing them the Eucharist, upon the pretext of incapacity to comprehend the great mystery of the Church. This prejudice vanished only with time, and before the authority of more than one ecclesiastical council, assembled in the cities of Peru and La Plata to decide the question. The poor Indian obtained one advantage by this doubt exemption from the fearful tribunals of the Inquisition. 160 RIO APPA. A TAPIE. CHAPTEE X. Rio Appa. A Tapir. Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Bounda- ries. Letter from Mr. Hudson. Point Hock. Sierra Siete Punta. Pan de Azucar. Ascent of the Mountain. The View. Speculations on the Future of this Country. Hound Top. Fort Bourbon. Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay. Bahia Blanca. Vuelta Pariquito. Capon Chico. A Boa. Dorado, Pacu, and Palometa. Ascent of the Bahia Blanca. Camelotas. Suspending of the Bottle to a Tree. Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden. Grant by the Congress of Bolivia. Decree of the Supreme < Government. Importance at- tached to the Navigation of the Otuquis. Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauri- cio Back. Fort Coimbra. Flattering Expressions of the Commandante. The Guaycurus. Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians. The Canoe. "November 19^A, 1853. Anchored off the mouth of the Kio Appa, known to the early Spanish settlers as the Corrientes, but changed to its present name by the Mbayas when they overran this entire region. It rises about thirty miles in the interior of Paraguay, in the Cordillera Amambay. On anchoring, took a boat, and, accom- panied by several of the officers, pulled six miles up this river ; found its general width about three hundred yards, with a depth of not less than nine feet; banks low. We were prepared to make additions to our collection of animals, birds, and plants, but met with no great success. Not a bird was to be seen of which we had not already procured a specimen. The plants were few, the flora consisting principally of the rich clusters of a variety of creepers, which, by their varied tinges, gave a gay relief to the dark foliage of a shrubby growth around which they were entwined. "Saw several capibara and tapirs. The first we secured; the latter escaped us, for its tough skin defied a volley from our party that would have brought down a dozen ordinary animals. We first saw it swimming across the river, showing only its head. One pronounced it a log, another a tiger- but, soon discovering it to be a strange animal never before seen, every gun was pointed, and the men plied their oars in eager pursuit. It was impossible to intercept him before reaching the shore, where he disappeared in a thicket. We beached the boat, and each man, with his gun, made a rush to the nearest point. The animal was tracked for some distance, but the impenetrable thorny undergrowth formed .a barrier to the chase, but not to the escape of the tapir, who to a DISPUTES BETWEEN BEAZIL AND PARAGUAY. 161 thick skin adds fleetness equal to that of the horse, and strength which enables him to break through any thicket, however matted, dense, or thorny." I afterward procured one alive, which was shipped for home, but he died on the passage. We found two varieties of wild fruit, the " No hace," about the size of a large plum, growing on a lofty tree, and the " Evepina," similar in appearance to a cherry. The Eio Appa has been considered the northern boundary be- tween Brazil and Paraguay ; at least, the Imperial Government so regards it ; but thelVaguayans protest against any such limita- tion of their territory, and claim to the Bahia Blanca. This ques- tion of limits has been for years one of diplomatic discussion, ne- gotiation, and bad feeling between the two countries, and has, un- til very recently, excluded Brazil from all communication, by the lower waters of the Paraguay, with Matto Grosso. Paraguay, by what right does not appear, claims both banks up to Bahia Blan- ca, and, as a consequence, control over the navigation of the river ; the very course the Imperial Government has pursued toward its hemmed-in neighbors, Peru and Bolivia. President Lopez perfectly comprehends the importance of this highway to Brazil, and knows that it presses more and more upon her annually. In the management of this question he has dis- played astuteness, foresight, and accomplished diplomacy; uni- formly quoting to the Imperial Government its own policy in closing the Amazon and its confluents to the northwestern repub- lics. It therefore can not consistently demur to the exercise of this right by another power. The territory in dispute would be of little value but for the points within it bordering upon the Paraguay, which are important as military positions, for they would give any nation holding them entire control over that riv- er. Imperial guns mounted at the Pan de Azucar, or at Olimpo (Fort Bourbon), might well occasion uneasiness to Paraguay. They would not only command her frontier, but might prove the beginning of a system of inclosure, contracting its circle until there would appear an imperium in imperio ; not a "sick man," who must, by reason of his infirmities, be put aside, but a weak child, needing for its safety and nurture a strong protecting arm. f~In short, Paraguay would be absorbed and incorporated as an in- " tegral part of the " Empire of South America." On one ground alone is President Lopez willing to settle this question : that is, to leave the territory in dispute entirely unoccupied by either country. 11 162 ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. The exploration of the "Water Witch" demonstrated the prac- ticability of sending large steamers up the river, beyond the lim- its of Paraguay, and probably induced Brazil in 1855 to push this question to an issue. It was then that she sent up the fleet to which I have alluded."! On what grounds the concession was finally made I have not learned, but it has been granted, as I am informed by letter from Mr. Hudson, our consul at Buenos Ayres.* " November \Wi. A very remarkable change in the temperature has taken place within the last twenty -four hours. Yesterday, the 18th, wind north ; at 3 P.M. thermometer stood at 97. To- day at same hour it has fallen to 79, wind W.S.W., and at mid- night to 68, wind south. Although within the tropics, and ap- proaching the mountainous regions of Brazil and Bolivia, we ob- serve constantly the influence of south winds in lowering the temperature. " The country, after leaving Eio Appa, to Point Eock, a distance of about fifty miles, is on both sides elevated but a few feet above the river, and has the usual growth of palm and grass. Point Eock, an isolated granitic hill, or mount, is on the left bank, and rises to the height of ninety feet, throwing out a rocky ledge half way across the river, and forcing the channel toward the west, where it forms the Paso Taruma. Upon the same side we have had, since leaving " Eio Appa," a distant view of the " Sierra du Amarbay," which stretches south about thirty miles inland. In the Ghaco, the horizon is bounded by the Sierra Siete Puntas, its nearest point to the river being a detached, rounded, and wooded mount, which rises abruptly from the plain in latitude 21 47' south. "After leaving Point Eock the face of the country again changes : we have no longer the monotony of flat plains, but the most divers- ified and picturesque landscapes. On the east are many isolated mountains, some rising directly from the river banks, others at a distance in the interior, all overtopped by the giant Pan deAzucar, a conical volcanic peak 1350 feet high. The river is now divided by a wooded island which rises about eighty feet above the water- level. We passed through the west branch, which has a width of * "January 27th, 1857. A steamer Cor$a, from Kio, has gone up to Matto Gros- so, towing three vessels with cargoes. Lopez, in spite of his treaty with Brazil, is- throwing every impediment in their way. The first cargo the Madrugas that went up to Matto Grosso paid four hundred per cent, profit. Salt sold for twenty-two silver dollars the fanega three and a half bushels." ASCENT OF PAN DE AZUCAB, 163 PAN DE AZUCAB. one hundred and fifty feet, depth seventy, and anchored one mile above, having Pan de Azucar east of the anchorage. These de- tached, rounded elevations to which I allude are all on the east. The monotony of the west plain is unbroken but by a solitary mountain, rising directly from the bank of the river, as if detached by a convulsion of nature from its opposite neighbor." November 21s, 5 o'clock A.M. Accompanied by Lieutenant Powell, Dr. Carter, and the pilot Bernardino, I started for the as- cent of Pan de Azucar. After wading for about a mile and a half through a sea of grass, we reached the foot of the mountain, and commenced the ascent. Making our way over volcanic rocks pro- truding beyond a shrubby growth, and at times through closely matted and almost impenetrable masses of vegetation, we had ad- vanced about two thirds of the distance, when the doctor and pilot gave out, and decided to remain and keep each other company. Spoiled in a cruise of several months, where we had only to " dip alongside" for the luxury of fresh water, not one of us had thought of bringing a single bottle of the essential element. Thirst was excessive; but we continued the ascent, and by 8 o'clock A.M. Mr. Powell and myself were standing upon the rounded summit, where VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN. a stunted and scattering growth offered no obstacle to a clear and uninterrupted view of the country in every direction. The day, fortunately for us, was not intensely hot. At 8 A.M. thermometer stood at 79. The wind was then south ; it had been prevailing during the last two days from southeast and southwest, within which time the lowest temperature was 65, on the 20th at 6 A.M., and the highest 79 ; a remarkable change from the read- ing of the 19th, which gave as a minimum and maximum 84 and 97. We obtained a reading of the barometer, which, in connec- tion with simultaneous observations made on board ship, gave the height of the mountain at thirteen hundred and fifty feet above the river. According to our observations, it is in latitude 21 25' 10", longitude 57 55' 54" west, three quarters of a mile from the river on the east bank, sixty-three from the Kio Appa, and three hundred and ninety miles from Asuncion. On all sides below us was a grassy palm-plain, relieved here and there by dark belts of forest, and by insulated mountains or hills, some peaked, others rounded, some rising precipitously for several hundred feet, others sloping gracefully to the plain. The southern horizon was bounded by the wavy undulations of the Cordillera de Amarbay and the sharp outlines of the SietePuntas Seven Peaks. In the Chaco, far away to the north, was the Te- cho da Morro. There were no estancias in view, with their sleek herds, no or- ange groves, no green promise, no golden tints of ripening or ma- tured cereals ; not a habitation or sign of civilized or savage life. The solitude would have been oppressive but for the beauty of the face of the country, and the exhilaration caused by the deli- cious atmosphere, tempered by southern breezes. May I be excused if, under its influence, or an imperious in- stinct of our nature American nature I found myself speculat- ing upon the future of these favored regions ; a great predestined future, none could doubt, who for many months had voyaged through such a valley of beauty, presenting, with the exception of that of our Mississippi, the fairest unbroken extent of cultiva- ble land in the world. Is this wealth of creation to remain una- vailable for the comfort and happiness of men, while the powers holding dominion over it invite immigration, and the over-crowd- ed cities of Europe teem with millions whose cry is bread ? "When the dungeons of Southern Italy re-echo the sighs of men who have dared to aspire to political independence? and while the indus- THE FUTURE OF LA PLATA. 165 trial nations are seeking new sources of supply in raw material and new outlets for their manufactures ? and while, even in Con- stitutional England, in underground dens, or within the shadow of palatial precincts, are hid, not sheltered, men, women, and chil- dren, crushed, not by vice, but a poverty that generates crime? Emigrants to the valley of La Plata may reach their homes in ocean steamers. No barren wildernesses are to be traversed. No long winters or autumnal exhalations are to be feared. There is much to allure, nothing to repel. No warring, as in the valley of the Amazon and Orinoco, with Indian, beast, and reptile, and, above all, with the great dragon, tropical miasma, which the mind and strength of the white race are impotent to conquer. If Bo- livia, Paraguay, the States of the Argentine Confederation, and of Buenos Ayres, would unite and form, for great purposes, a com- munity of nations, neither filibustering hosts nor imperial armies or fleets could be feared. Under the aegis of a liberal Constitution, which would reject all bigoted exclusiveness of political or relig- ious doctrine, added to the facilities which climate and soil offer to new populations above all, to cultivators and artisans the face of these wilds would be transfigured into prosperous states, the parts of a South American Eepublic, which would advance to a zenith of unprecedented power. Spanish galleons, freighted with the " fifths" of majesty ; the ships of Portugal and Great Britain, laden with the profits of illegal trade, will never again sail from La Plata. But the steamers of maritime nations, bearing the prod- ucts of industrial power, will cover her interior water-courses, and, in return, pour into the lap of those nations the indigenous agri- cultural and mineral wealth of the Western Indies. No over- throw of existent governments, no political revulsions are neces- sary to place the inhabitants of these regions under the beneficent influences of a great republican civilization. But my dreams and speculations were at an end as we went pitching down the steep, in many places precipitous sides of the mountain, here catching at a shrub, there resting against a rock. The descent proved far more difficult than the ascent had been. We found the doctor and Bernardino where we had left them. The former, oppressed with drowsiness, had kept awake, not rel- ishing the idea of being caught napping by a jaguar, while the pilot philosophically refreshed himself with a long sleep. At last we reached the river, and relieved our thirst and fatigue by rush- ing into its waters. 166 FORT BOURBON. We returned with some additions to our ornithologic collection a few birds not before seen, among them a toucan ; also some fruit of the "yatay guazu" a palm not found south of the Pan de Azucar, and differing somewhat from the trees of that family growing so extensively on the plains, being less lofty, and the trunk of greater diameter. The width of the river at our anchorage off Pan de Azucar was about one third of a mile ; temperature of water 84. From Sal- vador, the general width is from a quarter to one third of a mile. Least depth since passing the Malo Paso, eighteen feet ; greatest, ninety feet of line, and no bottom. " November 22d. The character of the river, height of banks, and their growth, have varied but little to Olimpo, or Fort Bour- bon, thirty -three miles from Pan de Azucar. Two miles above our last anchorage, near the mountain in view from the Chaco side, and distant about three miles from the river, was Eound Top Techo da MOTTO ; opposite were a few detached hills. With these exceptions the country is low, with palms and grass. Here and there, where the banks are slightly elevated, are patches, but no extended reaches of good timber. Twenty -four miles above the mount, half concealed by a small island on the west bank, which rises twelve feet above the water, we saw on the east a toldo or wigwam, but no Indians a good position whence to escape to the Chaco if molested by Paraguayans ; of this, however, they could have but little apprehension, as no force has yet ventured such a distance ninety-three miles from a frontier guardia. The range of the Sierra Olimpo, as here represented, is seen at the distance of two miles, bearing north by west in the Chaco. Upon its northern extremity, which slopes to the river, stands Fort Bourbon, according to our observations in latitude 21 01 ' 39", longitude 57 55' 40", and variation 1 east. Passing half a mile above, we anchored with the fort bearing S. 5 E." Soon after coming to anchor we visited the now abandoned fort. It stands on the lowest point of the Olimpo range, not more than forty-five feet above the river, here one third of a mile in width, and forms a square of one hundred feet, having at each angle bastions, which alone were intended for guns, as the walls, fourteen feet high, and two and a half in thickness, are without embrasures. It is built of a sandstone found in the neighboring sierras, and its position is admirably chosen for commanding the channel of the river ; but it is commanded, in turn, by the heights DISPUTED JURISDICTION. in its vicinity. It was constructed in 1798 by order of Charles III. of Spain, as a. barrier against the encroachments of the Por- tuguese of Matto Grrosso and the hostilities of Chaco Indians. In 1822 it was garrisoned by order of Francia ; was abandoned by President Lopez in 1850 ; but was reoccupied by Paraguay after the opening of the river to Brazilian vessels in 1856. Upon the sierra, immediately adjoining the fort, is an enormous corral, encircled by a wall six feet high, in good preservation, which was formerly used to protect the cattle of the fort from In-' dian depredation. Fort Olimpo, with the adjacent country, is claimed by Bolivia, on grounds apparently more tenable than those upon which are based the rights of Paraguay. By a decree of the government in 1852, it was made one of three free ports of entry, to which they invited the flags of all nations, offering a prize of ten thousand dollars to the first commercial expedition that might enter either one of them. President Lopez considered this step as an insult to Paraguay, and an attempted infraction of her territorial rights, but proceeded to no active measures for setting it aside, trusting to the distance of Olimpo from the populous provinces of Bolivia, and the in- ability of that republic to support here a garrison adequate to the enforcement of her decree. Again, there are other claimants the caciques of the warlike Chaco tribes. Their claim is based on priority of title and present occupation ; for, with the excep- tion of this fort and a few dilapidated huts, the former quarters of officers, there is nowhere around or in its vicinage, for many miles, a vestige of occupation by the white race. It stands as isolated from all civilization as a desert island of the ocean, far from a hab- itable coast. The Sierra Olimpo is covered with noble timber, and affords fuel of excellent quality for steam, which we can readily believe to be one of the predestined agents for the development of this country. I have constantly alluded to the vast palm plains, but, since entering the Paraguay, we have never run a single day without passing broad forests, or points sufficiently wooded to furnish material for all the purposes of navigation. I was aston- ished to find within the walls of the fort, which had been aban- doned for more than three years, a cotton plant, growing with vigor, blooming and bearing matured cotton of the finest quality. Five miles from Olimpo we reached Bahia Blanca "White 170 SALT LAKE. Bay," into which, empties the Eio Blanco, an insignificant stream. This point is only important from being claimed by Paraguay as her northern boundary. All the territory beyond, on the east, is owned, without question from neighboring powers, by Brazil, and on the west by Bolivia and Brazil; and, though no limits are clearly assigned to imperial possession south, or to Paraguay north, they are probably inclined to leave Bolivia a small outlet by which to reach the great central highway through the Eiver Otuquis, which flows into the Bahia Negra, and thus connects with the Paraguay. A short distance beyond the fort, the coun- try bordering the river on both sides assumes a remarkable change. So far as the eye can reach, there is a sea of vigorous grass, with no trees, save here and there a cluster of willows and alders. The grass encroaches upon the river, apparently floating upon the water, where the banks are not precipitous, and there is little or no current. ^ At the Yuelta Pariqueti, forty-eight miles from Olimpo, the lands adjacent to the river on the right bank again are elevated, and skirted by a ndble growth of lapacho, nandubay, and al- garroba. The left side continues low and marshy for a mile or two beyond, where it is broken by a riacho, the banks of which for some distance are Well timbered ; an evidence generally, if not uniformly, of land exempt from periodical inundations. The riv- er from Olimpo to this point is tortuous, embracing, by its course, sixty-two geographical miles, with a difference in latitude of only twenty -five, and ten in longitude. We anchored off Lake Salinas, latitude 20 36' 24" south. It is a lagoon, which at the dry season becomes a saline flat. A few huts stand upon the edges of the lagoon, and are occupied during the " season" by Brazilians from Albuquerque, Corumba, and even Cuyaba. Salt is one of the requirements of northwestern Brazil not found in the country, and large parties, in long canoes, come to these salinas from Cuyaba, the capital of Matto Grosso, a distance of five hundred miles, and return with deeply -laden boats against a current of two miles the hour. This is the principal source from which a supply is obtained, and, as may be well understood, it is of indifferent quality. Under the effects of solar evaporation, the efflorescence is so abundant that no inconsiderable quantity is obtained from the surface. The profits of a trade in this one ar- ticle may be estimated from its scarcity.* * See the letter quoted from Mr. Hudson, p. 162. BAHIA NEGRA. FISHING. 171 "November 24:th, 6 o'clock A.M., temperature of air, 88; water, 86 ; wind north. Past night oppressively hot in cabin ; tempera- ture throughout the night, 82 ; on deck, 81. Calm on the pre- ceding day ; on the 23d, temperature 76 at 6 A.M ; 93 at 3 P.M. " November 26th. Have this day steamed from the saline lagoons forty-eight miles. Found little change in the physical features of the river or adjacent country. Northern borders of the salinas are covered with firm timber, and twenty miles above it, at Capon Chico, the Chaco side is well wooded. Fourteen miles beyond this, on the same side, a forest of quebracho. Anchored off the mouth of the Bahia Negra. The appearance of this ' bahia' is that of a river, and I have determined to explore it. The color of the water, and its current, satisfied me that what we saw was not the discharge of a bay, formed by the backing up of the waters of the Paraguay during the season of inundation, but of a tributary, and one of great interest, as flowing from the west, through which might be opened a communication with the eastern borders of Bolivia. " We caught in the river near our anchorage a boa seven feet in length. Found some difficulty in putting the huge reptile alive into alcohol without injuring it, as a specimen." On approaching the entrance of Bahia Negra, we were aston- ished at the number of fish, apparently myriads. We anchored at the confluence of the two waters, to give the officers and men a little sport, and an opportunity to obtain food and specimens. I have caught the Ked Snapper and Grooper on the coasts of Flor- ida and Mexico, where one might haul in the sluggish, inactive fish as lazily as an " old soldier of a tar" would take in the " slack of a rope," but I have never witnessed fishing such as this, at the confluence of the Bahia Negra and Paraguay. In an incredibly short time, hooks baited with pork were floating by dozens astern ; and scarcely had they touched the water, when hundreds of fish would spring eagerly at each bait. Dorado, Pac^, and Palometa (all delicious for the table) were among the varieties caught. The Dorado, so called from its golden color, is from two to thre.e feet in length, and weighs from eighteen to twenty -four pounds ; its flesh is white and solid. The strength of this fish is wonderful. When hauled in, it would spring into the air some fifteen or twenty feet, not unfrequently detaching itself, or severing the hook from the line, and looking, as it darted upward, like a huge golden vessel incrusted with gems. The Pacu is of a dark grayish color; its 172 ASCENT OF THE BIO NEGRO. breadth is about two thirds its length, and the largest caught weighed twenty -two pounds. The Palometa is of very much the same form as the Pacu, though not so large ; in color, a light gray, with yellow belly. This latter is more formidable to swim- mers than any other inhabitant of the La Plata waters. Each of its jaws is armed with a row of triangular teeth, which cut like the sharpest knife. We have uniformly noticed a great gathering offish at the con- fluence of the tributaries with the central waters : this is doubtless owing to the quantity of young ones brought down by the small- er streams. " November 25th. Ascending the Bahia, or Rio Negro. I call it a river, because, until lost in a sea of grass, it has every appear- ance and characteristic of one. " After proceeding twenty -five miles, the crank strap broke for the fourth time since leaving Asuncion. Anchored in fourteen feet water. Banks low, covered with a scattered and inferior growth of trees ; grass vigorous and green ; width of river at anchorage, six hundred yards ; temperature of air at six P.M., 92 ; water, 85 ; wind N.E. Greatest depth since entering this water, thirty feet; least, twelve. Position of anchorage on the night of the 26th, latitude 19 52' 42" south, longitude 58 16' 34" west. " To the northeast, mountains of Coimbra and Albuquerque ; in every other direction, grass and water as boundless as the ocean. Horizon so clearly defined that the altitude of a heavenly body might be taken during the day with the same accuracy as by ob- servation made with a sea horizon. " November 27th. Under way at an early hour. The river con- tracted rapidly in width, so much so as to make it difficult to round the points without running the bows of the steamer into the grass. Continued to advance for two hours, when the channel was so narrowed by grass that both wheels were in it, and yet we had a depth of.twelve feet water. Anchored and took to a boat, determined, if possible, to see whither the stream would lead or from wtence it came. Ascended six miles above the position of the Water Witch. Here the river was entirely closed by came- lotes and grass, and yet we still had nine feet water. A solitary- dwarfed tree, of the mimosa family, was standing six feet above the water level, where its depth was five feet. " We suspended to one of its branches a bottle by copper wire ; it contained the name of the steamer, her position, and names of A SEA OF GRASS. 173 officers. We had still to the east the blue outlines of the Brazil- ian mountains, the nearest, in a right line, distant twenty -two miles. Northwest, the direction whence I supposed this river to flow, grass, water, and sky. "We pulled up some of this grass ; it meas- ured in length twelve feet, and from a quarter to half an inch in diameter. The point reached was in latitude 19 50' 53" south, longitude 58 15' 29" west, thirty-one miles from its confluence with the Paraguay ; general direction thus far, north. The dis- tance in a right line between these two points, it will be seen, is about twenty miles. Temperature, maximum meridian, 95, wind KKK; at 3 P.M., 94, windK.N.W.; minimum, at 3 A.M., 80 ; water at meridian, 88-J . "It is with deep regret that I am obliged to leave this ' Bahia' without having satisfied myself whence come its waters. I am convinced that it is not the backing up of the Paraguay. The current forbids that idea, and the color, even at its junction, is in strange contrast with that of the latter. Between the seasons of high and low water I can not believe that the waters of the Para- guay could back into this bay, deposit detritus, and receive a color unvarying from its mouth to the point of ascent, black, and yet, in a glass, perfectly limpid, more so than the water of the Parana, while that of the Paraguay is uniformly turbid. This alone would convince me that it flows from the high lands of Bolivia, and may be a navigable stream into the interior of that country. If this fact could be established, it would prove of inestimable value, not only to the mediterranean state, but to the whole civilized world. So far as my observation enables me to judge, I perceive no insur- mountable obstacle to the navigation of this river. I am convinced that a steamer properly constructed could skim over or cut through this sea of grass." We retraced our steps, after some difficulty in getting the steam- er's bows down stream. She was at last pointed in the right direc- tion, and cutting through the grass which surrounded her, first on one side, then on the other$ we descended, and again entered the Paraguay. Before leaving the Bahia, observed a noble deer on the left bank : it stood for a minute perfectly still, as if paralyzed by the appearance of the Water Witch. We thought ourselves sure of a fine specimen, but, before we had gotten within gunshot distance, with one bound it cleared the bushes that skirted the bank, and was in an instant hid from view in a neighboring thicket. From* the following extracts may be gathered the importance at 174 NAVIGATION OF THE OTUQUIS. one time attached to a navigable outlet from that part of Bolivia through which the Otuquis flows, and the measures taken to es- tablish it. Senor Don Manuel Luis de Oliden made a proposition to the Congress of Bolivia to open the navigation of the Eiver Otuquis to its confluence with the Paraguay, in consideration of which the Congress passed the following act on the 5th November, 1832 : " The Executive will grant to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden such aids as it may think proper, in order to enable him to establish a port at the confluence of the rivers Otuquis, Tucabaca, and Latiriquiqui, or at such point as may be most suitable, in order to open the navigation of these into the River Paraguay, conceding, in addition, those privileges which are due to him as the originator of this enterprise. (Signed), "I. EU3TAQUIO EQUIBAR, President. "DIONISIO BASSIENTOS, Secretary." This was followed by the subjoined decree of the " Supreme Government," issued on the 17th November, 1832 : " The government being authorized by the foregoing act of Congress of November 5th, 1832, to grant to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden such aids as it may think proper, in order to enable him to establish a port at the con- fluence of the Rivers Tucabaca, Otuquis, and Latiriquiqui, in the province of Chiquitos, and to accord to him such privileges as he may be entitled to ; and, the said Manuel Luis de Oliden, having bound himself to the accomplish- ment of this undertaking in the terms of the following articles, concedes to him privileges, immunities, and guaranties in the following terms, viz. : "ART. 1. There is granted to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden, from the point he may select at which to establish a port on the River Otuquis, south of the province of Chiquitos, twenty-five leagues of territory, in every direc- tion, for himself and his heirs. " ART. 2. The port he may establish shall be his property for the term of fifty years, at the expiration of which time it shall revert to the c nacion.' " ART. 3. All the foreign goods and products introduced through this port during the above-mentioned fifty years shall pay not more than five per cent, duty, which shall be collected at the points where the articles are con- sumed, under appraisements according to the tariff of the republic. "Art. 4. During the aforesaid term of fifty years, the government will not appoint any officer or employe ; and those that may be necessary will be appointed and paid by the contractor. Nevertheless, should the govern- ment deem it advisable to make any appointments, it may make only such as shall be deemed necessary to facilitate the collection of the duties on ar- ticles introduced into the interior of the republic, and these shall be paid by the government. THE OLIDEN GRANT. 175 " ART. 5. This establishment shall be governed by the Constitution and laws of the republic. " ART. 6. The privileges and grants which the government concedes and guarantees to Manuel Luis de Oliden and his successors may be transferred to and enjoyed by such persons to whom he may convey his right of proper- ty, under the same conditions as set forth in this decree. "ART. 7. This establishment will be under the authority and protection of the Supreme Government, with which the contractor (el empresario) will communicate through the minister of the interior. " ART. 8. If, at the end of four years from this date, this establishment and the opening of navigation be not made, although it may not be in oper- ation, this decree shall be null and void." Copies of the papers from which these extracts have been made were sent to me after the publication of my Synoptical Eeport to the Secretary of the Navy on the La Plata Expedition. I was not before aware how great an interest was felt in establishing the navigability of the Otuquis, and its connection with the Paraguay. An intelligent and highly respectable Englishman, who had for many years resided in Buenos Ayres, was at that time in London to establish a company for the settlement of the "Oliden Grant." I have since been gratified by receiving letters from England and France stating that my allusion to the possibility of opening a water communication from the Paraguay to Bolivia had inspired many with such confidence that a colonization company was forming for that republic. The decree of Congress, followed by the executive proclama- tion, will explain the terms of agreement between Mr. Oliden and the government of Bolivia. Chiquitos is described as being the richest of her provinces. It was the scene of the labors of the Jesuits, and the seat of some of the most celebrated missions of that order. D'Orbigny speaks of it as " abounding in Nature's gifts." The Oliden Grant in this province, between the parallels of 17 45' and 20 15' south, is bounded on the east by the Paraguay Kiver, and extends one hundred and fifty miles west. This, it will be seen, includes the settlements and military posts now held by the Brazilian government; but as the territory claimed by that empire reaches but a' short distance west of the Paraguay, and does not embrace any portion of the Otuquis Eiver or Bahia Ne- gra, even should this claim be persisted in and conceded by Boliv- ia, it can not materially affect this grant. The agricultural ex- 176 OLIDEN'S OPERATIONS. periments upon the lands of Oliden were interesting, and show what has been accomplished within these limits. I quote from a "Description de la Nueva Provincia da Otuquis en Bolivia: par Mauricio Back." " The village of Santiago, which Mr. Oliden made in 1833 the centre of his operations, on the southern border of the province of Chiquitos, and sit- uated on the Cordillera of the same name, has a population of 1380 souls, and enjoys a temperate, salubrious climate. This Cordillera, whence issue many small streams, which form the River ( Otuquis,' contains, according to reliable authority, mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, and precious stones. In the mountains are most valuable woods and medicinal plants. On the plains south of this Cordillera are skirts of wood, palm, and grass lands, suited for grazing. The soil is of remarkable fertility. " At a distance of seven leagues from the above-mentioned point Mr. Oliden formed his first settlement on the f Rio Agua Caliente' Hot River over the ruins of the old town of Santiago, founded by the Jesuits, which is now called ' Florida.' The ' Agua Caliente' takes its rise in a warm lake five leagues south of Santiago. This settlement was composed in the year 1836 of several handsome houses, which had been erected by order of the 6 empresario,' and is the point which he had selected for his own residence. He established large farms, which were cultivated with great success : corn, of which two crops were made annually ; rice equal to that of Bengal ; mandioca of extraordinary size ; coflee of superior quality ; cocoa, sugar-cane, and tobacco this last the best known sweet potatoes, peanuts, beans of every variety, and every class of vegetables. " Jle established estancias south of this'town, on rivers of never-failing water, where the grazing was abundant for the rearing of cattle, sheep, and mules. From Florida he opened a road to the great salina, distant fifty leagues, from which, by way of the Cordillera e de Lances,' it may be con- tinued to e Chuquisaca' and ' Tarija.' Another road was opened from Flor- ida to Oliden, the central point of the new province, and distant sixteen leagues east. This was the situation of the old town of ' Cordon de Jesus,' founded by the Jesuits on an elevated plain by the side of the ( Rio Tucu- baca,' in latitude 19 04 X south, longitude 61 03' west from Paris. An- other road has been opened from Oliden to the town of f Santa Corezon,' distant twenty-two leagues N.N.E. This town has a population of HOG souls, and its climate is rather hot than temperate. On this road, and at the distance of fifteen leagues from ( Oliden,' the empresario established a f hacienda' a farm, which he called ' Sietos,' for the cultivation particular- ly of cotton and sugar-cane. Its product in the year 1836 was very consid- erable. " In the vicinity of the town of ' Santiago,' on the Serrania of the same name, and in the valley formed by the same, he established another hacien- FORT COIMBRA. 179 da called ' Binconadra,' for the cultivation of the sugar-cane. Its product in the same year was equal to that of ' Sietos.' " As the navigability of the Otuquis is supposed to be establish- ed from the high lands of Bolivia for a long distance in its course southeast, and as the expedition under my command examined it for thirty -one miles above its confluence with the Paraguay, it only remains to determine the connection between these two points. The government of Bolivia has always been liberal in offering inducements to immigration, feeling perhaps assured that through the energy of foreign populations alone can the riches of that re- public the " golden" and the " garden" spot of La Plata be brought to light. It is a source of gratification to know that the late explorations of the Water Witch have contributed something toward the consummation of such a point, by establishing the fact of an easy and safe navigation for ocean steamers from the At- lantic to Bahia Negra, a fact not before practically demonstrated, therefore not confidently believed. "November 27th, 1853. Again under way ; beyond Bahia Negra, little change in the aspect of the river or adjacent country to Fort Coimbra in Brazil, thirty-three miles from Olimpo, where we an- chored after dark, and immediately received a visit from the com- mandante, who had overland orders from his government anticipa- tory of our arrival. This gentleman, Antonia Peixoto de Azevido Ravim Capite, said that he had for some time been watching for us, and at last, with strange emotion, saw the smoke and lights of the little steamer as she plowed the waters of the wilderness." Fort Coimbra is the first Brazilian settlement south on the Par- aguay, and it is the first on the right bank since leaving Santa Fe, twelve hundred and eighty miles below. In all that extent of country, though habitable, fertile, and salubrious, we have not seen one white soul. The entire province of Matto Grrosso is divided into three military districts, embracing fourteen commands Matto Grrosso, Santa Maria, and Baxo Paraguay. This last includes that portion of the empire into which our expedition entered. I called on the commandante, who received me in a small room with no superfluous furniture ; for we must remember that Coimbra at that time could only be approached from Eio de Janeiro by Cuyaba, a distance of twelve hundred miles land travel and five hundred of river navigation ; the land journey is over mountains, their passes in many places accessible only to mules. I should have been as- 180 COIMBRA. tonished to find here an officer of such intelligence and polished manners had I not learned that the " commands" of this rich fron- tier province are posts of distinction, for with the military duties are united high civil functions. The commandante said that he had been charged by his government to afford me all possible facilities in forwarding the objects of the expedition, but that, for reasons al- ready given by the Minister of Foreign Affairs to the United States Minister, I could not ascend above Corumba, a military station one hundred and twenty miles beyond Coimbra. It was a slight extension of " my limits," which had first been fixed at Albuquerque. This officer was enthusiastic in dwelling upon the progress of the exploration, "fruitful, "he said, "with glo- rious results, and worthy of commemoration by a marble pillar. The little Water Witch," he added, " would live in the memory of the Brazilians.".* While flattering us with these expressions, he frankly and un- reservedly regretted that any limit should have been placed to our exploration. A steamer was a familiar sight to these Brazilians ; the novelty was to see one at Coimbra. In visiting us, the com- mandante, as a military man, was particularly interested in the ex- amination of our little armament, consisting of three howitzers. "They were," he said, " perfect pieces of ordnance of their class, and admirable for the field operations of his frontier position." Coimbra, in latitude 19 55' 43", longitude 57 52' 32", stands on a spur of a mountain of the same name, which here .slopes to the river, rising not more than forty feet above it at the point upon which is placed the fort, a solid stone structure, which could, with some few additions, be made a place of great strength. It mounts six guns, long twelve-pounders, most of them of brass, and very fine pieces. They completely command the channel of the river, which is here one third of a mile wide. Vessels in passing are within point-blank shot. The interior of the fort was in admira- ble order, and great improvements were contemplated, some of which were in progress. Within the walls were small stone houses thatched with straw, the quarters of the commandante, three offi- cers, and a part of the garrison ; the remainder live without the walls, where are fixed the families of some of the soldiers. Madame Peixoto de Azevido had given up all the comforts and luxury of a life in the capital to share this frontier home with her husband. All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the neighboring Indians. The mountains and pampa adjacent afford little scope THE CACIQUE OF THE GUAYCUKUS. 181 for cultivation or grazing, the latter not being exempt from in- undation, while the former offers little arable land. The new commandante had not been here long enough to carry out his con- templated improvements, which embrace gardens, as well as addi- tional military defenses, by placing guns upon the heights of the sierra, commanding the fort in the rear. The low lands, for some distance above Coimbra, are subject to inundation; but, at the same time, there are reaches of firm land, covered with excellent woods, and never overflowed except in seasons of extraordinary rise. The mountains are still insulated peaks or short ranges, proba- bly spurs of the Bolivian sierras, which extend through Chiquitos. 'As at Pan de Azucar, so likewise at Coimbra, two insulated hills face each other on opposite sides of the Paraguay ; that on the west we ascertained to rise four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the water, its formation being of lime and sandstone, with moss -like impressions resembling arborescent marble, of which we got some very pretty specimens. The temperature on the 28th of November was, at 6 P.M., air 81, water 88. The neighboring Chaco is here occupied by the warlike Guay- curus. While the attitude of Paraguay toward her wild neighbors has been one of hostility or non-intercourse, that of Brazil is now, and always has been, conciliatory. The great cacique of the Guaycurus, Tacalaguana, holds a commission from the Imperial Government as an officer of rank, and receives frequent presents for himself and tribe. He is always treated with marked civility and distinction by the commanders of this frontier province. His manner, not only to his own people, but in all intercourse with strangers, is lofty and exacting ; he receives no present, not even a cigar, except from the hands of an attendant, and in return makes no sort of acknowledgment, considering his acceptance of the offering a favor and condescension. The wisdom of the Bra- zilian policy toward these Indians is apparent ; it enables her to maintain upon her frontier a formidable force at little or no ex- pense. After placing a current-gauge, to mark the fall of water per day until our return, we were again under way. The commander accompanied us for a short distance, and returned -in his canoe. It had been the intention of Madame de Azevido and himself to accept my invitation of a passage to Albuquerque, but her illness 182 THE CURALO TODO. deprived us of this pleasure. At a short distance above Coimbra we passed a huge canoe floating down lazily with the current, and filled with what looked like an emigrating host. It was a party of Brazilians bound for the salinas. As we passed them the men rested upon their oars, and all gazed as if lost in aston- ishment at the appearance of our little steamer in these distant waters. CHAPTER XI. The Moro Dorito. Curalo Todo. Tea, Coffee, and Milk. Position of Anchorage off Albuquerque. The Miranda. The Tacuary. Azara's Maps. The Cam- barasa. The Paraguay Mini. Corumba. The Guatambu. Hunting the Ja- guar. Fruits. Return to Albuquerque. Village of Mbayas. An Indian Mis- sion. Rice and Cotton. Schools. The Padre. A Dance. Missionary Effort. The Jesuits. The Dinner on board the Water Witch. Trade of Cuyaba. Bolivian Refugees. The Grotto Inferno. Capture of a Sentinel. Fate of the Refugees. Birds. The Jaguar. Its Ferocity. Lenguas Indians. The Com- mandante wears a long Face. The Yellow Parrot. Anchored off Asuncion. A Storm brewing. " November 29th. Under way. After passing the Moro Dorito, a round wooded hill on the left bank, about two and a half miles above our last anchorage, the lands on that side are low, while opposite, short ranges or isolated peaks, alternating with plains of grass, are continuous. The most elevated and remarkable in ap- pearance of these mountains is the Sierra Consello, twenty-two miles above the Coimbra. It rises near the river bank, fifteen hundred feet above the level of the water, and is covered with fine timber. The country on the left is higher than that between Olimpo and Coimbra, but is not entirely exempt from inundation at the greatest rise of the river. Many points, however, are well wooded. " Thirty -five miles above Coimbra, on the left, a lovely grove of the aguaraibay, familiarly known in the country as Curalo todo* or Para todo" This tree abounds in the neighborhood of the Uruguay mis- sions, and from its leaves, gathered at any season, but usually when the tree is in flower, is extracted, by boiling, a sirup known as the "Balm de Aguaraibay," or "Balm of the Missions." Be- fore the revolution, each Indian village was obliged to furnish two pounds of this balm annually to the royal pharmaceutist at * Universal remedy. U iH . Of COFFEE AND MILK. 183 Madrid. The medicinal properties of the leaf of the para todo were first made known by a Hungarian Jesuit, Sigismund Asper- ger, who spent forty years among the missions of La Plata, and died after the expulsion of his order, at the advanced age of one hundred and twelve years.* Asperger, who had in early life been a physician, was indefatigable in botanic research, and an accom- plished pharmacologist. He left a manuscript of medical recipes and examples of acute cases which he had successfully treated with medicines prepared from the indigenous vegetation of the country. Several curanderos the only physicians of Paraguay, have copies of this valuable manuscript. "Least depth of water to-day (fifteen feet) since leaving Pan de Azucar. Anchored before sundown off Albuquerque ; saw near the river only two huts, for the town is three miles inland, at the foot of a sierra of the same name. As the water is falling, I have determined to push on to Corumba, and visit the authorities of Albuquerque when I return. Strolling along the banks before dark, we saw at a short distance a rancho, and near it a corral filled with cattle, the first seen since leaving the frontier guardia of Paraguay. Endeavored to procure some milk, a luxury not appreciated by the people of this river country ; indeed, it is nev- er used by the Argentines or Paraguayans except with Jiominy." In moving from one nation to another, bordering on the same great water-course, it is curious to observe how circumstances, habit, and local influences make certain articles essentials of life. We have left behind us the region of mate, and here, on the very confines of Brazil, far from her coffee districts, the decoction of this berry is the favorite drink of all who can procure it. We got our milk fresh from the cow, procured a novel and primitive vessel in which to carry it to the steamer, and on that evening feasted with tea, coffee, and milk. " Temperature of air at six P.M., 81 ; water, 88 ; maximum, meridian, 90 ; minimum, midnight, 76. Position of anchorage off Albuquerque, latitude 19 26' 53" south, longitude 57 28' 51" west ; distance from Coimbra forty-seven miles. Put up a gauge to ascertain the fall of the water during our absence. 11 November 3(M, 1853. At an early hour this morning under way. Four miles above our last anchorage, the Eiver Miranda, or, as it is marked on Azara's map, Mbotetey, empties into the Paraguay on the east by two mouths: one only, the lowest, is * Azara. 184 MAPS. MALO PASO. navigable. It rises in the Cordillera San Jose, a range which, under various names, extends through many degrees north and south, and is the watershed for several of the western tributaries of the Parana and the eastern tributaries of the Paraguay. The Miranda is, I am told, navigable to a town of the same name, one hundred and sixty miles in the interior ; but as the Paraguay is falling rapidly, and I do not wish to be caught here, a fixture for some months, I can not spare the time for its examination. " To the right the sierras are continuous, extending west be- yond the horizon : they are, without doubt, part of the Bolivian range of San Pantaleon. Six miles above the Miranda is the mouth of another eastern tributary, the Tacuary, which also rises in the Cordillera of San Jose. I can not at this time explore these trib- utaries, and find it difficult to obtain any reliable information of their characteristics. Even upon the Paraguay we find in this vicinage but one settlement of the white race, an estancia belong- ing to a gentleman of Albuquerque, about six miles above the mouth of the Tacuary : it is well stocked with cattle." On the east, back to the Cordillera of San Jose, is a fine rolling country, marked on several maps as the Lake of Xarayes. This is a geographical error, but not greater than many I have had occa- sion to remark, in the course of my professional experience, in various parts of the world, and this, too, in an age when the per- fection of instruments leaves no excuse for inaccuracy. There are no indications here of a lake. The land is low, and doubtless not exempt from inundation at the season of high water. The growth on the banks is shrubby, but back, and immediately ad- jacent, is a dense forest, which looks as if it might be the growth of ages. In alluding to received errors in the geography of this country, I must except the maps of Azara. His latitudes are remarkably correct, and his longitudes are as much so as we have a right to expect, when we remember the period at which he worked, and the perfection which three quarters of a century of improvement has given to the construction of instruments. On his map the southern border of this lake is fixed at 18. ' ' 'November BOth. Twenty-one miles above Albuquerque. Anoth - er malo paso. It really offers no obstacle to a continuous naviga- tion of the Paraguay, but there is a shoal extending from the right bank, and rocks on the left, which contract the width of the chan- nel, and reduce its depth to twelve feet, when it still has seven to SADDLE- SHAPED MOUNTAIN. 185 fall. This pass is called Cambarasa, from a beautiful grove on the left bank. The cambarasa is one of the finest trees of this lati- tude ; the trunk, without limbs, rises to the height of about forty feet ; it then shoots out a multitude of branches covered with rich dark foliage, the whole forming an umbrella-shaped crowning. " Three miles above, on the opposite side, a mountain range ap- proaches the river, and from its base, extending quite down to the water, is a fine growth of lapacho. Two miles above this, on the east, is the mouth of the Omigara, said to be only a branch of the Tacuary. Beyond, on the same side, begins an extensive and beautiful forest of cambarasa, distant from the river, at different points, from one quarter to two miles. "Have advanced some distance, and observe, eight miles in- land, a saddle-shaped mountain, here represented in the sketch ; it SADDLE-SHAPED MOUNTAIN. slopes gradually in rounded hills and rolling wooded lands to the west bank of the Paraguay, and is one of a broken range extend- ing northward for forty miles from Albuquerque. On the east is a similar wooded range, broken by plains and perpendicular sec- tions of a rocky formation. This mingling of mountain, forest, plain, and rock is inexpressibly beautiful. 186 ASCENT TO COKUMBA. " The Paraguay Mini Little Paraguay, here empties into the main river. It is said to shorten, by thirty miles, the ascension to Cuyaba, but has less depth than the main river. "Fifty -five miles above Albuquerque. For the first time an appearance of a lake upon the east. It is a narrow, shallow strip of water, running parallel with the river, and there is a mountain about two miles in the interior, with a low plain between it and this lagoon. As we approach Corumba, the country presents the appearance of a beautiful and recently-mown meadow, bounded by wooded mountains, artificially terraced to the plain. The si- lence and solitude is that of a desert. Not a sign of human life, not a vestige or germ of civilization, except our little craft; she puffs over the waters ; at her peak the "stars and stripes" are spread by a gentle southern breeze. "We are opening, I sanguinely hope, a new path to commerce and civilization. " In sight of the little settlement of Corumba. As we approach we find the passage of the river intricate ; as little as ten feet wa- ter. We have on board several men sent by the commandante to pilot us up. There is a vast deal of disputing in Spanish, Portu- guese, and Gruarani, evidently a diversity of opinion, creating such confusion that the Water Witch has narrowly escaped being run ashore. " Minimum temperature at 3 A.M., 75, wind 1ST.KW. Maxi- mum, 3 P.M., 91.5, wind south. Width of river, six hundred yards ; depth, fifteen feet. "We have now reached the utmost limit to which Brazil will permit us to ascend." Permission was subsequently given for the expedition to ex- tend its operations throughout the Brazilian affluents of La Plata, a result I confidently expected from the well-known intelli- gence and enlightened spirit of the Emperor, notwithstanding the first refusal. This conviction did not lessen my regret at being obliged to abide by the decision of the Imperial Government. A few days would have taken us to Cuyaba. From that point I could have concluded the survey of the river to its source in a boat, and have sent the steamer so far down as to pass in time all shoal places. " The west banks here rise fifty or sixty feet to the level of a plain which stretches back to a range of wooded mountains. It has extended forests, with alternations of grass-land. The soil is CORUMBA. 187 undoubtedly fine, but, with the exception of one solitary estancia well-stocked with cattle, and yielding excellent crops of corn and mandioca, there is no attempt at culture in any direction. Aloes and cacti abound ; and in our walks through the country we rec- ognized woods seen several degrees south, such as the sabinata (soap-tree), pala bianco, etc. I procured sections of others not in- digenous to a lower latitude ; above all, the guatambu. This has the finest imaginable texture, is of a delicate straw color, receives a high polish, and would be, undoubtedly, in cabinet-work, the most precious of arboreal treasures. Gathered four varieties of edible fruits not before seen. " Shot two vampire-bats ; one was flying with young in its claws. Fine specimens of patos reales, a duck very like our do- mestic Muscovy, but far more delicate for table use, have been added to our collections." The station or village of Corumba is merely a collection of thatched huts forming two sides of a plaza, at one end of which is a chapel, distinguishable only by its cross from the humble tene- ments. A commander, fifteen soldiers, and about thirty women and children, apparently mixed breeds of whites, Indians, and ne- 188 JAGUAR-HUNTING. groes, are the inhabitants of this place, which has the appearance of a forlorn settlement of squatters. The neighboring forests abound in jaguars, said to be equal in ferocity to the Bengal tiger. Having heard that the commander was a Nimrod, I proposed a hunt, to which he readily assented, and both time and place of meeting were arranged. We were punctual to our appointment, but by some mistake spearmen and dogs started before us ; as the latter failed to strike the trail of a beast, we lost nothing. The commandante showed us a fierce pack of dogs, with each one of which was associated some fearful story of hairbreadth escape. He gave us also a spirited account of his hunting adventures, always perilous where the jaguar is the ob- ject. He goes out armed with a double-barreled gun, and attend- ed by two spearmen or lanceros, each furnished with a long lance and knife. The lance is pointed with iron, and on either side, about fifteen inches from the end, is a projection of the same metal, forming a cross ; this is to keep the tiger at a safe distance as he receives a thrust ; for, if not wounded in some vital point heart, head, or spine he never falls or attempts to escape, but, infuriated, springs, with wonderful strength and the agility of a cat, at the hunter. The arm of the spearman must be strong and steady, and the second fire fatal, or the result of the battle is doubtful. On one occasion a powerful beast L enraged by a slight wound, in an incredibly short time laid eight dogs dead around him, and made a dash at the commander, who had ventured out without his lan- ceros, and only saved himself by a precipitate retreat. " December 2d. During the last forty-eight hours the river ha^ fallen 3 inches. "We gathered some wild fruits to-day while- strolling through 'the woods near the settlement the guacupari. pleasantly acid ; cacan, mangarba, cipata. "Albuquerque, December 3c?, 1853. Fearing to be caught in the upper waters, I returned to Albuquerque, making the run in seven hours and a half; on board, the Commandante of Corumba and his wife, who wished to visit this station. " Temperature of air at 6 o'clock A.M., 75 ; at three P.M., 92 ; calm ; water, 89, the highest temperature yet felt. In passing again the Paso Cambarasa, to which I have alluded, we inclined more to the right, and found deeper water, proving that in ascend- ing we were out of the channel." Albuquerque takes its name from a mountain, evidently a de- tached range of the Sierra Dorado, known also to the Bolivians as ALBUQUERQUE. 189 the Sierra Santa Lucia. It is the central and principal post on the Paraguay frontier, and is embraced in the cormriand of Captain Peixoto de Azevido, whom we found here upon our arrival. On this occasion we visited the village, beautifully situated, about three miles from the river, amid a grove of tropical trees, which concealed it entirely from view as we approached. PLAZA OP ALBUQUEEQtTE. The whole aspect of the place was cheerful and pleasant; it consisted of sixty or seventy adobe houses, built round a plaza, at one end of which, as usual, stood the chapel, with its white- washed gable and cross. In the centre of the square were several guns, and in the immediate vicinity a number of huts occupied by Guanos Indians, part of the agricultural tribe to which I have alluded in connection with the Mbayas. I accepted an invitation from our friend the commandante to breakfast with him, and spend the day in visiting the various In- dian settlements of the neighborhood. After an abundant repast, to which all the officers of the "Water "Witch and some of the prin- cipal personages of the village were asked, we called at two es- tablishments of Guaycurus. They live in neat huts, and occupy themselves so successfully in cultivating the ground as to supply nearly all the vegetables used at Albuquerque, and many of those sent to Coimbra and Corumba. The following day we visited the "Missao da Nossa Senhora de bom Consuelho, no Baixo Para- guay," about eight miles from Albuquerque, which is still more interesting, as exhibiting the aptness of the Indian for civilization. The subjects of this mission are Guanos, under the immediate 190 MISSION OF OUK LADY OF GOOD COUNSEL. charge of a Franciscan friar, who labors zealously both to Chris- tianize and improve their temporal condition. In witnessing the results so far, we were involuntarily impressed with respect for the religion and for the order. A few years past, these Indians, now forming a Christian community, were wandering among the wilds of the Chaco. Our ride extended through a fine rolling country, but we were scarcely prepared for the neatness, order, and cultivation imme- diately around the mission. One end of the large plaza was oc- cupied by the church and school-house, and on two sides were the dwellings of the Indians, merely thatched huts, but admirably con- structed for health and comfort in a tropical climate. Twenty feet was the width allowed to each house, which, with a door at either end, and partitioned within by cotton curtains, had all the neces- sary advantage of privacy, with free circulation of air ; some sim- ple cooking utensils, two or three cots, and a raised platform on one side completed the interior arrangements. The platforms served during the day. for tables or seats, and at night, where the family was large, as places of repose. To each house was attached a garden, where vegetables were grown; but surrounding, and at some distance from the village, were plantations and fields of corn, sweet potatoes, mandioca, beans, rice, etc. In the lowlands of the vicinity, called Pantanos, is found a native -rice, not so white as the Carolina grain, but nu- tritious, and excellent to the taste. It is regularly harvested by the Indians, who thrash the grain from the stalks into their canoes. Cotton of fine quality grows abundantly and spontaneously in the neighborhood. This the women spin with the distaff, color with dyes extracted from the barks of the neighboring forests, and weave into the fabrics which form the material of their simple gar- ments. These, for the females, are long chemises confined at the waist, and for the men, pantaloons and ponchos. Men and boys are trained for a few hours each day by a cor- poral in military exercises ; and in the school were about eighty pupils who had mastered not only the rudiments of a common education, but made some progress in music and dancing. Their proficiency in music reminded me of the assertion of the Jesuits, who allude frequently, and with enthusiasm, to the genius of the Plata Indians for this beautiful art. All the performers in the band, with the exception of the leader and instructor, who is a Brazilian, were Indians. INDIAN MISSIONS. 191 "We dined with, the Padre, and found assembled quite a large party, several gentlemen of Albuquerque having been invited to meet us. The dinner was admirably cooked, and served by In- dian servants, and we had the pleasant enlivenment of excellent music from the band which was stationed before the house. The dinner was followed by another entertainment, one not anticipated in these wild regions, but, above all, at the good Padre's domicil. This was a dance. While chatting over our cigars, a number of men and women, neatly dressed, came with presents for " Padre's guests," and the young people of the mission assembled in an ad- joining room, where, without the least confusion or embarrass- ment, they arranged themselves into quadrilles, and danced with a spirit and grace that astonished us. When Captain Azevido proposed our joining them, the officers were quite ready, and, with the others, I soon found myself wind- ing through a quadrille with a handsome Chaco girl, who was much more at home in the figures than her partner. These young Indians were all well formed, and some of them really handsome, with countenances guileless and intelligent ; their manner, though subdued and gentle, was perfectly self-possessed. It was touching to see the love and veneration with which they all, old and young, seemed to regard the Padre. In our own country enormous and annually increasing sums are absorbed by foreign missions, but we hear little of extended and united efforts among Christian societies for the evangelization of the Indian. Acting upon the healthful maxim of " justice be- fore generosity," surely the first thought of our missionaries should be for the aboriginal inhabitants of this continent. Some of the forest tribes, driven from State to Territory, from our fertile Terri- tories to the wilds of the Kocky Mountains, are threatened with extirpation ; they have been the victims rather than the enemies of a rude border population, who have enriched themselves from annuities, the price of their birthright, and initiated the savages only into all the vices of civilization. The capacity of the American savage for a high civilization has never been fully demonstrated. No enlarged and well-digested policy has yet been essayed which accorded them spiritual instruc- tion, with political rights and personal freedom. Greatly as hu- manity and religion must ever deplore the hasty and forced aban- donment of the Plata missions by the Jesuits, admirable as was the secular administration of the fathers, and extraordinary as 192 PKICES AT ALBUQUERQUE. was the proficiency of the Indians in many of the arts, their " Ke- ductions" were but religious communities, governed each by two or three feeble men. They were desolated by fierce marauders, disturbed by the interference of government officials, who pretend- ed to discern in them the germs of an independent empire, jeal- ously watched by ecclesiastics, and surrounded by a white popula- tion eager to enslave their neophytes. It is therefore no reproach to the labors of Jesuits that the condition of the Indian, to the last, was one of pupilage. And we can not wonder that when sudden- ly exposed to reactionary influences, separated from his paternal governors, and subjected to the capricious and jarring tyranny of civil and ecclesiastical rulers, he should have again sought the wild freedom of the forest. It was not only a pleasure, but a duty to return the hospitalities of our Brazilian friends, and this in the best manner that the limit- ed and nearly exhausted stores of the Water Witch would per- mit. Invitations were immediately given, limited only by our accommodations ; and if the table could not present a sumptuous bill of fare, it boasted a few bottles of good cheer, reserved for such occasions. " His Imperial Majesty," " the Stars and Stripes," "our glorious Union," and lastly, but enthusiastically, by our guests, ''the Explorations of the Water Witch," were all subjects of toast. Sentiment and song, anecdote and tale of adventure, followed each other in quick succession. The western wilds of Brazil never before re-echoed the song and la,ughter of a merrier party, all natives of the American continent. To give some idea of the profits of trade to Cuyaba, I append the prices of certain articles at the time the Water Witch was in those waters. Salt sold at ten dollars the Brazilian arroba (thirty- two pounds), flour at fifteen dollars the arroba. The former is an essential of life, which never can be supplied from the natural re- sources of the country.* I purchased at Albuquerque, for the ship's company, brown sugar at five and a half cents a pound. It was made in the neigh- borhood, and neatly moulded into blocks, each weighing one and a half pounds. The caterer of the mess bought refined white sugar, also made at Albuquerque, and moulded in the same form, for thirteen and a' half cents. For coffee brought from Cuyaba * Mandioca is at present, in the north of La Plata, a substitute for bread, and, while traveling in the eastern wilds of Paraguay, I have eaten bread made from flour of the bitter mandioca equal to the finest wheaten loaves. BRAZILIAN REFUGEES. 193 we paid twenty-seven cents per pound. It is said that planta- tions of coffee would succeed admirably in this region of the country, but the population is small, and the impossibility hereto- fore of finding a market has alone prevented its cultivation. The high price we paid arose from a temporary scarcity of the article at Albuquerque, and the unusual demand of a quantity for a for- eign ship's crew. The steamer was overrun with Indians bringing presents of pigs, poultry, sugar-cane, bananas, and vegetables, expecting in return, not money, but salt. The steward was not allowed to impose upon their ignorance, and when they received a pound in return for two chickens or a pig, they were amazed at our liberality. The supplies brought were greatly beyond our wants, and obliged us to decline them at last, giving all who came, however, a little salt. " The river has fallen within the last three days seven inches, as shown by the gauge. Temperature of air varying from 75 to 96 ; that of the water, 89. u December 7th, 1853. When about to get under way for Coim- bra, with its commandante on board as our guest, we were ap- proached by a long, unwieldy open boat, containing four refugee Bolivian officers, who had brought letters from the Governor of Matto Grosso to Commandante Azevido. I released them from their confined position by offering them a passage to Coimbra, and took the boat in tow. They were making their way to Buenos Ayres, or some town in the Argentine Confederation, and could they have escaped over the southern borders of Bolivia, they might have reached Salta in five days ; but by that route capture was almost inevitable, and as they had taken a leading part in the late revolution, which had failed, th'ey would have paid the pen- alty with their lives. There was but one road open to them through the north to Cuyaba ; following this, they had traveled, when we met them, two thousand two hundred miles by land and river. " December 9th. Have just returned from a visit to the ' Grotto Inferno,' which is north of the fort, in the same range of hills, and about a mile and a half from the river." For the convenience of carrying instruments, hydrometer and barometer, and for securing any specimens to be found of an in- teresting character, we went in boats, which made the distance three miles. We could not approach within half a mile of the 13 194 I THF GROTTO INFERNO. base of the hill with the boats, but, plunging through mud and water, we at last stood at the entrance of the grotto a fissure or mouth in the limestone barely wide enough to creep in. The general inclination in the line of descent was about 30 from the perpendicular, with a shaft of sixty feet. Descending cautiously upon hands and feet, we reached the margin of a lake, and found ourselves in a magnificent irregularly shaped hall, em- bracing an area of about two thousand feet. Its roof, varying from twenty to forty feet in height, rested on columns, symmetrica] and grand, as if designed and placed there by accomplished archi- tects and skillful workmen. Between the columns were stalag- mites, rising in the form of pillars, four, five, and six feet in height, standing at regular distances, like sentinels suddenly transformed into stone ; the stalactical depositions were of the most beautiful and fantastic forms ; and as the crystallized surfaces of sides, roof, and pillars reflected the blue lights and torches of our men, they glittered and shone with all the brilliancy and varied hues of gems. What ages must have elapsed while the great work had been going on for the meeting, drop by drop, of ascending and descending points, until those stupendous columns were formed ! Ours was a noisy party, but in the momentary intervals of silence we heard the unceasing drip. Entrances, half concealed below the water, led to lateral branch- es, which we did not attempt to explore. Our men bathed in the sweet, limpid water of the lake, which had a depth of eighteen feet ; temperature above the standard of our hydrometer, 75 05 ', while that of the air was 80 ; the latter, however, undoubtedly increased by the heat of the torches and the number of our party. The commandante assured me that this lake rises and falls with the periodical variations of the Paraguay. We toasted the divin- ities of the spot, until, warned by the waning lights, we gathered up specimens, and began a scramble for the mouth of the grotto. It was an undertaking, with the encumbrance of a few stalac- tites ; but the commander, having heard me express a desire to car- ry off one of the " sentinels," had assigned to his men what seemed an impracticable task with the means at hand that of raising one of those stalagmites to the mouth of the grotto. The feat was ac- complished in safety ; and the column, weighing two hundred and fifty pounds, was carried in triumph to the Water Witch. One of the Bolivian officers accompanied us in quite an elegant toilet, embracing a pair of patent-leather boots. Such parts of DEPARTURE FROM COIMBRA. 195 these as stood by him after the descent and ascent 01 the grotto were totally " used up" in the tramp to the boat. Misfortune and companionship in the wilderness had made us intimate. His woe- ful appearance was a fruitful subject of merriment and jest, which he bore with such philosophy and good-humor as to join heartily in the laugh against himself. From barometric measurement, the highest point of the ridge overlooking the fort was four hundred and fifty-one feet above the level of the river. The temperature ranged from 75 to 93 ; by gauge, water fell 2.4 inches per day. When about to leave Coimbra, I received a letter from General Gregorio Perez, Colonel Hilarion Ortiz, Lieutenant Colonel Ysi- doro Eeyes, and Doctor Antonio Zaveo, the four Bolivian officers, asking a passage in the "Water "Witch to Asuncion. It was a pleasure to accede to this request, for their position was truly for- lorn ; but in doing so, I asked the general to report their presence at the first Paraguayan town. In Francia's time they would in- evitably have been detained, but under the present government the result was what I anticipated ; they were stopped at Salvador until the President could be notified of their arrival, but were eventually permitted to leave the country, and went down to Buenos Ayres in the Water Witch when she descended for sup- plies.* On the llth of December, we parted, with regret, from our friend the kind and gentlemanly Commandante of Coimbra, but with the hope of seeing him again when we return in a small steamer to complete the exploration of the upper waters. He presented us with a half-grown jaguar, and several rare birds ; one, the . " Motu" of the pheasant family, about the size of a small turkey female brown, with brown and white crest ; male black, with black crest is easily domesticated, and delicious for the table ; it may prove a valuable acquisition to our domestic fowls. The jaguar is fawn-colored, with dark spots encircled by a black ring, which, at a glance, distinguishes this animal from the leopard. In this specimen the marks are bright and well defined. These, with several interesting animals, were sent home ; some died on the passage, others after their arrival in the United States. The instructions of Mr. Kennedy gave me a hope that my contri- butions might form the nucleus of a national zoological collection, and I made such a suggestion to his successor, but it met with no * By the last revolution, September, 1857, this party is now in power. 196 ' DESCENT OF THE EIVEK. encouragement, as Congress had made no appropriation for such an object. The tiger is now alive at the farm of the Insane Asy- lum near "Washington, and exhibits every evidence of untamed ferocity. On one occasion the Water Witch was visited by a lady, ac- companied by a lovely little girl. The jaguar was lying in her cage, quietly as usual when undisturbed or not hungry ; but at the sight of this child she sprang up with a fury that startled us. Each time as the child passed and repassed we witnessed the same exhibition of ferocity. " Eeached the Salinas, to which I have alluded in ascending the river; saw many Gruaycuru wigwams swarming with busy occu- pants, for this was the season for making salt. " Anchored, as the sun was setting in glorious majesty, amid a sea of crimson, gold, blue, rose. How gorgeous are these tropical sunsets, and how solemn, as all nature, with short interval, sinks into shadow of night ! "Many Gruaycurus came on board; they had never seen a steamer, but manifested no astonishment. The women were of the ordinary stature ; men above it, with fine muscular development." u December 14^. Anchored off Salvador." As I expected, the Bolivian officers were detained for instructions from Asuncion. " Met here a cacique, and some men of the Lengua tribe. I per- suaded the cacique and several of his companions to sit for their daguerreotypes. At the sight of them they showed both wonder and delight ; it is the first time that I have seen the La Plata In- dians exhibit an emotion." " Conception, December I5th. I have endeavored, but in vain, to procure horses for the officers and myself to visit the ' Yer- bales.' The commandante, in our ascent of the river, was all ci- vility ; now he wears a long face, and makes many excuses for not complying with my request. * The horses,' he said, ' were away.' I extended the time for our excursion ; the commandante extend- ed the distance to which the horses had been sent. I am puzzled, but have been long enough in the country to know that the coun- tenances and deportment of officials reflect that of the government. Something is wrong. It would be less dangerous for the poor commandante to spend a few days among the Indians of the Chaco than to show us civility, if I have, however unintentionally, in- curred the displeasure of the ' great heart of Paraguay ;' for that influence penetrates every artery of the body politic. SOMETHING WRONG. 197 LENGUA INDIANS AT SALVADOR. ' It is astonishing with what rapidity the commands and wishes of government are here transmitted to every part of the republic. From guardia to piqueta, -from piqueta ttf guardia, these Para- guay couriers move with a rapidity that would rival the speed of an express locomotive. I have been more successful in procuring specimens than horses, and have added many fine birds to our collection. " The weather during the last few days has been intensely hot ; thermometer varying from 73 to 99 ; and this heat is neither de- bilitating nor oppressive, tempered as it is by constant breezes, south, southeast, southwest. Thermometer at 9 A.M., 93 ; wa- ter, 87. " Anchored at one of our wooding points off the estancia of Senor Antonio Garcia. The Water Witch has been visited by his family, and many others of the neighborhood. One of the la- dies brought with her a yellow parrot. It is known that the In- dians of Paraguay have sometimes succeeded in changing the col- or of the parrot by plucking the feathers of the young bird, and pressing into the pores a fluid, which imparts its hue to the new plumage; but senora assured me that hers was a genuine and 198 ASUNCION. A STORM BREWING. rare species ; so rare that she knew of but one other in all the country. The bird was blind, and had been so for twelve years. I was anxious to procure a specimen, but no money could pur- chase this. It is true, the lady presented it to me. I, however, fortunately understood that it was a Spanish offer, and declined it. " At one or two of the bad passes we have discovered that our descent was well-timed. The water has fallen four and a half feet since our upward passage, and yet there is sufficient depth for a vessel of nine feet draught. Four feet more, and the river will have reached its minimum. It is subject in the month of January to a partial rise, similar to the Repunte of the Parana, which oc- curs in November, and is equal to five or six feet. While at Asuncion in January, 1854, between the 12th and 21st of the month, it rose eleven inches, continuing from that time to Febru- ary to decrease, as previously shown. " December 20th, 1853. Anchored off Asuncion ; visited almost immediately by the port captain, whose countenance, like that of the Governor of Concepcion, is ominous of a brewing storm. What can it be?" CHAPTER XII. % The Captain of the Port. Momentous Question. A Call at the Government House. The Secretary of State. Visit to the President. The Anniversary of Paraguayan Independence. Minor Explorations. Congress of 1812. The Consuls. Francia. Provisional Junta. Another Congress. President Lo- pez. The Constitution. Ignorance of the People. Society. Senoritas and Flowers. Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers. The Siesta. Another Call upon the President. The Vaquerano. A Tour into Paraguay. SenorDon Jaimi Cor- vallan. Periju. Senora Dalmacia. Villa Rica. Don Louis Homan. The Tebiquari. The Recado. Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria. The Dinner. The Peripo. Mr. Francis Wisner. Senor Sergente Lopez. Sefiora Clara. Manufacture of Cigars. The Taquari. Fertility of the Country. Medical Men. Healthful Climate. Puebla Carmen. Don Mariana. The Yun. El Secre- tario. Ytapua. THE captain of the port is an important personage at Asuncion ; he not only notes all arrivals and departures by water, but is a confidential friend of the President. His every look and act are watched by the Paraguayans as reflecting that of his Excellency. I found him, on my return, not wanting in official courtesy, but depressingly solemn. At last he asked a great and momentous question. A MOMENTOUS QUESTION. 199 "How far did you go?" 14 1 ascended to Corumba in Brazil." ik Then you went beyond the limits of Paraguay?" Here was a key to the mystery. I now understood why all the horses of Concepcion had so suddenly disappeared ; why the good commandante, so zealously anxious to serve us in ascending, was so officially cold in descending. I have alluded to the celerity with which intelligence is trans- mitted through Paraguay, by means of guardias and piquetes. The port captain knew very well that the expedition had entered the Brazilian waters, and I understood that, in questioning me as to the extent of our explorations, he only acted under instructions, and that my answer would be duly reported. I said, " having completed the survey of the river throughout Paraguayan territory, and finding that we were on the borders of Brazil, I availed myself of the imperial permission, and ascended to Corumba, It is true, that in my interviews and conversations with the President on this subject, he raised objections to my going beyond the limits of Paraguay, but I always combated them, and as this official letter was sent after my last conversation with him, I concluded from its tenor that he had yielded the point. I know that his Excellency will be gratified at the result of my work, for I can give him information as to neighboring territories which he has never before received." I then showed the official the Presi- dent's letter. He looked disturbed, and bade me adios. I called as soon as possible at the government house. The offi- cer in attendance announced my visit, but returned immediately, saying, " His Excellency is too unwell to receive you, but requests that you will call on the Secretary of State." " Express to his Excellency my regret at his indisposition, and say that I have no official business with the Secretary of State ; but I will call on him." The Secretary of State was profoundly polite, but as solemn as if under condemnation to be shot for treason. "He hoped that I had enjoyed the trip." The secretary was disposed to regard it as a pleasure excursion. I replied, "I have received pleasure from the exploration of the river beyond Asuncion, and much of this pleasure arises from a knowledge of the success of the work so far ; for this success 1 owe much to the liberality of the Paraguayan government, and 200 INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT LOPEZ. avail myself of this occasion to express my thanks for the hospi- tality and official consideration with which we have been received at every point upon the river. I regret that the indisposition of his Excellency the President, obliges me to wait for the pleasure of expressing to him my gratitude." The secretary relaxed somewhat from the rigidity of counte- nance and manner which he had maintained since my entrance. At this propitious moment I rose and said " good-morning." I understood now the whole question; in entering Brazilian territory I had touched the dignity of the republic, periled its peace, and it was considered necessary to make me aware of this. - After the lapse of a day or two the President's recovery was in- timated to me, and I called at the government house, was admit- ted, and found his Excellency seated as usual at the circular table. The conversation soon turned upon the extent of our explorations, when his Excellency became excited. One would have supposed that I had let " Los Portugases" as he called -the Brazilians in upon him. He "knew," he said, "that the imperial government would de- mand the privilege accorded to the United States expedition." I said, u I think your Excellency takes a mistaken view of the question. Our explorations can not be assumed as a precedent to do more than the expedition has aimed to accomplish, and if Bra- zil should demand the same privilege it would be absurd. The surveys of the river have been carefully made. The results will be published, and the imperial government will receive the same benefit that any other might expect." I reminded him of our last conversation on the subject, also of his official letter, which I regarded as an abandonment of all ob- jections to my ascending as far as I could, and then said, " I am happy now to present your Excellency with a sketch of the river, throughout the limits of Paraguay, of perhaps far great- er accuracy than any thing you have before seen." He assured me repeatedly, during this visit, of his high consid- eration for me officially and personally ; and from this time my re- lations with him, until again disturbed, were of a far more friendly and confidential character than they had previously been. A few days later I had an interview with him on some other business ; he adverted playfully to the subject of our difficulty, and said, "We are now as good friends as ever." The 25th of December is the anniversary of Paraguayan inde- ANNIVEBSARY OF INDEPENDENCE. 201 pendence, and is therefore, in that country, both a political and religious festival. Accompanied by some of the officers of the Water Witch, I called to pay my respects to the President, who was, as usual, before the circular table, and in full uniform. Ho requested us to be seated on his right ; and we took possession of one of the rows of chairs, to which I have previously alluded a? being always stationary. Opposite, on a corresponding row, were seated some Paraguayans. All was solemn and still. I ventured to break the silence by congratulating his Excellency -upon' the prosperity and peace of Paraguay. In reply he referred, in com- plimentary terms, to the United States, to their rapid advance- ment, and their prominent position among the powers of the earth. Neither on this or any similar occasion did I observe the presence of ladies ; strong-minded women have then here both political and social wrongs. The wheels of the Water Witch had become so much damaged, that it was necessary to make some temporary repairs before she could attempt the passage to Montevideo for provisions, and a more thorough overhauling. When ready she was dispatched with such officers as were absolutely necessary, while others were detailed for various duties of the work in Paraguay. The small steamer was now completed, and assigned to Lieu- tenant Murdaugh, who was to explore a river which was said to flow from the Chaco into the Paraguay, sixty miles from Asuncion. Finding no such stream he entered an arm of the Paraguay, some distance above ; ascended it for fifteen miles, and discovered that it there terminated in grass and camelotes, having no current to indicate it being a river. This was doubtless the supposed tribu- tary, and is but another evidence of the prevailing ignorance of the geography of the opposite territory, even in the vicinity of the capital. To obtain some information as to the resources and cultivation of this country, I determined to go into the interior ; following a route that would lead through the most populous districts, and to some of the old settlements of the Jesuits, among them Ytapua. now called Encarnacion from which point, north, the Parana forms the eastern boundary of the republic. \ While engaged in preparation for these new movements of the expedition I had again an opportunity of seeing something of the capital, the cen- tre of trade, politics, and social life. Its population is estimated at from ten to twenty thousand certainly a wide difference in 202 G A SPAR FRANCIA. numbers; but, from the absence of statisticalinformation, or rath- er from the objection to making any thing known to strangers, a foreigner is left very much to the result of his own observations. I should say that it contains about twelve thousand inhabitants. The non-intercourse policy of Francia and Kosas has operated here as banefully as in many other towns of La Plata. With no motive for exertion, the habit is lost, and yet I found the Paraguayans quick to avail themselves of the information and intelligence of othersT GASPAR FRANCIA. The independence of this country was acknowledged by Buenos Ayres in 1811 ; a Congress assembled in 1812, and confided the administration of affairs to two consuls, Yegros and Francia. Yegros possessed some military talent, but was idle and illiterate. He left the management of affairs entirely in the hands of Francia, who regulated the finances, the military, and the administration of justice with so much address, filling every public place with his POLICY OF FBANCIA. 203 own creatures, that, in 1814, he succeeded in having himself named as dictator for three years, and at the expiration of that time for life. He was intended for the Church, and graduated at the University of Cordova; but, having more taste for jurispru- dence than for theology, he took the degree of Doctor of Laws, in which profession he attained both popularity and distinction. Providence granted him a long life. He was fifty when he was made supreme ruler of Paraguay, and had, by some years, passed the period assigned to man when death closed his career.* The, iniquity of his rule was progressive, and his apologists for even Francia has found them declare that, as a lawyer, and during the first years of his dictatorship, he displayed integrity and generous traits ; that the excessive severity of his character was developed by, or was the consequence of the conspiracies that constantly menaced his political power. It is almost impossible to arrive at the ruling principle of his action, or even to obtain reliable infor- mation as to the acts of the later years of his dictatorship. No records were kept, and all orders were returned to him, with " ex- ecuted" marked on the margin, and were then destroyed. We can only believe that cunning, not principle, restrained his de- signs, until the habit of submission on the part of the Paraguay- ans was fixed. It was his favorite maxim that " liberty should be proportioned to civilization, and that the exercise of it was prejudicial where not demanded as a public necessity." The doctrine of non-inter- course was adopted, he declared, to save Paraguay from the anarchy that decimated the population of other parts of La Plata, and from the ambitious designs of Buenos Ayres, who sought to exercise a dominating influence over the whole basin. Ytapua on the Parana, and Nembucu on the Paraguay, were open to trade, or rather to change of commodities, by special li- cense, Francia being the principal, or, in fact, the only merchant. "When he needed foreign articles, a permit was sent to Corrientes for a vessel to enter Kembucu. An invoice of the cargo was for- warded to him, upon which he placed his own valuation ; and payment was made in yerba, an article in such demand in the lower provinces that the people were glad to get it upon any terms. After his death, which occurred on December 25th, 1840, a Provisional Junta was appointed to administer the government * After his death there was found among his papers a list of fifty persons to be executed. 204 RISE OF LOPEZ. until a Congress could be convoked. At the end of four months, finding the members of this body indisposed to yield up the au- thority confided to them, the people rose, went to the government house, and forced them to resign. At the end of eighteen days an extraordinary Congress of four hundred members was assem- bled, and the administration of affairs was confided to two con- suls, Carlo Antonio Lopez and Marianna Koque Alonzo. The new magistrates entered upon the exercise of their functions in May, 1841 ; the first with a salary of four thousand dollars per annum, the second with three thousand. In 1844, Congress hav- ing decided that the consular government should be replaced by a president as chief magistrate, Senor Lopez was elected for ten years, and installed March 13th, 1845, with a salary of $8000 per annum. There was no provision limiting the re-election of the same individual. Consequently, in 1854, he was again chosen for another term. The age of the candidate, before fixed at forty -five, was changed to thirty -three ; a move made, it is supposed, by the President by way of securing the succession for his eldest son, General Lopez. Paraguay had a Constitution when Francia was made dictator. She has one now, perhaps, for I could learn nothing officially. But that avails nothing. The Constitution is interpreted ; the ju- diciary, elections, and congresses are alike controlled by the Pres- ident, who governs with an authority as unquestioned as if he were supreme Dictator. The commandantes of each jurisdiccion are appointed by him. These officers, in turn, nominate the dele- gates for Congress, allowing a certain representation to each par- tido ; and the Congress chooses the President, who is thus elected per se. There are few in this country who comprehend the first princi- ples of civil liberty.] Pitilessly, and with wonderful astuteness, Francia first debilitated the organic springs of their political sys- tem, feeble at best, and eventually destroyed its strength and life, ' So far as I could learn, the administration of President Lo- pez is unstained by crime; but there is no opposition to his au- thority ; there are no political conspiracies to test the temper or integrity of his rule. An unquestioning and timorous submission to his decrees, a reverential awe and demeanor in his presence, are observed by all, however high their official or social position. Paraguay has no precedent, historic or traditional, on which to base a more enlightened government ; and her chief magistrate. POLICY OF LOPEZ. 205 though a man of natural abilities and some education, loves pow- er, and is wary and unscrupulous in the exercise of it. He talks much of "the Kepublic," and of his desire to improve the condition of the people; but he needs the experience which must come from friction with foreign governments, the instruction of rebuke, and the bold unselfish energy of Urquiza, to become an enlightened ruler. He has made some effort for the establishment of schools, at least in Asuncion ; but it is a favorite theory with him that a sudden or rapid transition from the present primitive state of the Paraguayans would operate unfavorably to the harmony of the government and the peace of the Eepublic. He gives them a little learning cautiously and slowly. The better class of society in Asuncion consists of a few families of Spanish origin, among whom there are not many individuals who could meet, according to our ideas, a good educational stand- ard, though the men possess a vast deal of suaviter in modo, and the women are graceful and talk amazingly wellQ They have much talent for narration, and will give jaguar and Indian stories with infinite spirit. Madam Lopez resided at a quinta, about six miles from the town. The distance afforded a pleasant ride, and we were always kindly received by the senora and her fair daughters, who have all the ease of manner and tact which is so attractive in the Span- ish-American women. In the half dozen families of the city that formed the circle of our acquaintance we were always hospitably received, and with several of them our social intercourse was truly agreeable. Foreign articles of female attire are replacing the prim- itive fabrics, which the arbitrary decrees of Francia obliged all to use. The laces of France and Belgium are superseding the elab- orate domestic cotton productions of earlier days, which are now only used as trimmings for bed furniture, or are bought by for- eigners as curious specimens of female handicraft. In the houses of the wealthy, at Asuncion, the house-linen is tastefully decorated with these domestic laces. At the capital, and indeed at all the river towns of La Plata, a pretty custom prevails among the senoritas, of presenting every visitor with flowers. Their gardens may not display a large col- lection, but if they produce but a single sprig of sweet odor it is given to the first comer. In calling at different houses in the course of the afternoon, the visitor would accumulate quite a num- ber of bouquets, did he not learn from experience that, to save 206 SOCIETY IN ASUNCION. himself from a broadside of graceful reproaches, it would be ad- visable to conceal or part with the flowers of Senorita Maria be- fore entering the presence of Senorita Theresa. Each lady must suppose that she is the sole object of the afternoon's homage. We were invariably offered refreshments, either mate or En- glish ale, which is very popular among the Paraguayans, and throughout the river towns or the panales, a very refreshing do- mestic drink, made of the white of eggs and sugar beaten togeth- er, and formed into cakes of a cylindrical shape, looking like a delicate honeycomb. A little negro presents the visitor with a plate of these, always with a glass of water ; the panales immersed in the water dissolves immediately, and affords a simple but de- licious beverage. The servant after offering this goes out, but soon returns with the brasero a small brass vessel containing a few coals of fire and a plate of cigars. This last hospitality is offered in every house, however humble its pretensions in other respects ; and all men, women, and children delicate, refined girls, and young masters who would not with us be promoted to the dignity of pantaloons smoke with a gravity and gusto that is ir- resistibly ludicrous to a foreigner. My son sometimes accompa- nied me in these visits, and was always greatly embarrassed by the pressing offer of cigars. I made his excuses by saying, " Smok- ing is a practice we consider injurious for children." " Si, senor," the Paraguayan would reply, "with all other tobacco, but not with that of Paraguay." r On no occasion, while in Asuncion, were we invited to " dine out," or take tea; and dinners by invitation, or meals taken socially with other families, are unknown. I had frequently visit- ors while at breakfast, but never could prevail on one to join me at table. The Paraguayans rise early, take mate and cigars, then visit or transact business during the cool of the morning. At midday they dine, then retire for a siesta, during which the streets are deserted, every store and dwelling closed, and a profound still- ness reigns through the town. After a few hours the houses are reopened, cigars and mate are again served, and each one goes to his daily vocation. Kiding, visiting, or walking occupies the time from sundown till nine o'clock, when supper finishes the labors and enjoyments of the dayj I called to inform the President of my desire to visit the inte- rior of his beautiful country ; he replied, courteously, that a kind reception awaited me. TRIP TO THE INTERIOR. 207 "Will your Excellency tell me whether a passport is neces- sary ?" He hesitated " Not necessary, but it may facilitate your move- ments if questioned by some official, who would understand noth- ing you could say so well as a passport." The paper was prepared, but demanded only on one occasion, on the extreme eastern frontier of the Kepublic, where, as the President had foreseen, it was more useful than words. Our next step was to engage a vaqueano, an indispensable at- tendant to a traveling party ; for he is guide, hostler, banker, and interpreter. The last is a very important service, for in many parts of the interior of Paraguay Spanish is as little understood a? English or any other foreign language. Guarani is almost uni- versally spoken, and even the higher classes, who use Spanish habitually, understand and speak the Indian tongue with facility. " Cargaro" horses were also an absolute requisite for carrying our instruments for latitude and longitude, barometric measure- ments, daguerreotypes, and portfolios for botanic specimens ; to say nothing of a change of clothing and bedding for each individ- ual of the party. The latter, however, was not very bulky, being merely an India-rubber poncho. A hint from the President would be quite sufficient to insure kind treatment to strangers at the hands of every Paraguayan. But, independent of any influence the expression of his Excel- lency's will might have, I really believe hospitality to be a na- tional virtue. As there are no public houses, travelers must de- pend exclusively on private entertainment. I instructed the va- queano to make remuneration on all occasions in the course of our route. It was invariably offered, but in a majority of instances declined. On the 6th of February, 1854, in the afternoon, our party moved off, much to the amusement of a crowd of men, women, and children, who had assembled to see sailors on horseback. A gentleman who knew the country thoroughly had given me some general written directions as to the best places for siesta and for stopping at night. The first named was the Estancia Corvallan, about eighteen miles from Asuncion. Many estancieros in Para- guay reside permanently in the country, where they have spacious adobe houses. Don Jaimi Corvallan was one of this class of country gentlemen, and one of wealth and respectability. A friend having notified him of our intended visit, he came out to DON JAIMI CORVALLAN. meet us as we rode up to the house, invited us cordially to enter, and presented us to his wife and daughter, who welcomed us kindly, and busied themselves with the preparation of what proved a sumptuous supper. Paraguayans of all classes observe the sensible and economical habit of serving one dish at a time, though sometimes a single ar- ticle of food will furnish material for half a dozen courses. All are varied by nice cookery. On the present occasion we had " puch^ro" (stewed beef with vegetables), "asado" (roast beef), poultry, mandioca, and a "dulce" a term comprehending a variety of sweet things in this case a simple but very nice preparation of milk and sugar. After ci- gars and a chat with Don Jaimi we were shown to our sleeping apartments, where we found beautifully clean beds and white cot- ton hammocks, with elaborate net-work trimmings. At an early hour the following morning we were astir and ready for a start. The servant who awakened us served at the same time a mate ; and when we were ready to mount, a little ne- gress came forward with a large goblet of foaming milk, fresh and warm from the cow. Our kind host accompanied us for some distance. And now realizing that we had fairly commenced our journey into the interior of the country we felt much pleased with this first experience of its hospitalities. The road we followed was good, but sandy, and lay through a populous campo* After passing Ytigua, a pueblita-\ with a neat little chapel, we reached Periju in about three hours, and stopped for breakfast. This village is beautifully situated at the base of a ridge of wooded hills, and has its plaza and church. To the east ranged lofty sierras, and between them and the serranias lay the fertile campo through which we had traveled, winding beyond reach of the eye, and dotted with estancias and herds of horned cattle; or with small fields of corn, tobacco, and mandioca. The meal at Periju, which served both for breakfast and din- ner, consisted of beef, chickens, and mandioca ; the latter a gen- eral substitute through the country for bread. Our route from this place still lay through a level grazing country, its monotony relieved by superb woodlands. Passing the village of Paraguay ri, we stopped for the night at the house of Senora Dalmacia Fernan- dez. Festive sounds reached us as we approached the jingling * Campo, level country, in contradistinction to sierra, mountains, and serranias, hills, or spurs. t Pueblita, hamlet. SENORA DALMACIA FERNANDEZ. 209 of guitars and dancing. "We had disturbed a merry-making, and met with a cold reception. It was too late to look for other quarters, and, fatigued by a long day's ride, I was indisposed to excuse this want of hospitality by remembering that our arrival had interrupted the dance. I revenged myself by an exhibition of independence, which was, I fear, all lost on the senora ; for, re- COSTUMES IN THE INTERIOR. freshed by a bath in a small river that meandered through the campo, and wrapped in poncho and shawl, I settled myself for the night, quite unmindful of after invitations to supper and bed. The vaqueano had especial instructions to pay for all accommoda- tions which the party received ; and at five o'clock the next morn- ing we left with a smile, a courtesy, and an adios senor, from U 210 DON LOUIS ROMAN. Senora Dalmacia, that would have "taken aback" an old Span- iard. But I was unmoved, and went on my way with a stiff bow, and a determination never again to seek shelter from storm or starvation at the house of this fair widow. We passed a wooded spur of the sierra, and, after a ride of twenty-one miles, hungry and fatigued, stopped at the Estancia del Estado, about one mile from the Eio Hondo, a small tributary of the Tibiquari. Here two of our cargaro horses, with the daguerreo- type instruments, broke down, but we were furnished with fresh animals to take us to the house of Senor Jose Dolores, our rest- ing-place for the night. Passing the Capilla* Ybitimi, we arrived, about dusk, at Don Jose's. He was absent, but we were kindly received by the son, who hired us fresh horses to Villa Eica. As early on the follow- ing morning as the laziness of our vaqueano would allow, we were on the road, and in a short time reached the Tibiquarimim (Little Tibiquari), the principal branch of a river of that name. After fording this stream, which was two hundred yards wide, and from two to three feet deep, we entered the Partido Ytape, and break- fasted at the estancia of Senor Manuel Yasquez. Three hours later we arrived at " Villa Kica." Having letters for a Portuguese merchant, Don Louis Homan, I at once sought his residence, wishing to consult him about quar- ters for our party. He insisted that as many as could be accom- modated should remain at his house ; while for the others he found lodgings. I had no wish to impose upon his kindness, but he would only compromise matters by agreeing to find rooms for us elsewhere, provided we would take our meals with him. The hospitality of Don Louis was only surpassed by his industry and intelligence. Though an active merchant, horticulture, mechanics, and the rearing of horses occupied his leisure hours. A garden well stocked with delicious fruits, improved machinery for crushing sugar, and some fine horses, were shown us with evident pride. His racers were really noble animals, though they may not have possessed the "blood and heels" of Eclipse or Henry. Senor Homan also takes an intelligent interest in the native products of the country. His house, like all those of the better class at Villa Rica, was of adobe, and of one story. The furniture was made of Paraguay woods, such as Morosimo, and Tatayba, both of which have a very fine texture, and are susceptible of a high polish. * Capilla, a chapel surrounded by a few dwellings. VILLA RICA. 211 The Morosimo is not unlike mahogany ; the Tatayba is of a deli- cate straw color. I am indebted to him for some beautiful spe- cimens of the gum " Mbatitimbaby," which is amber -colored, clear, and apparently as hard as crystal. It is soluble only in nitric acid. Villa Kica is equidistant from the river Tibiquari on the east, and its tributary the Tibiquarimini on the west. Its position is picturesque, being surrounded by fertile plains, while to the east and west range low mountains covered with noble forests. It has about two thousand inhabitants, and is the principal depot for all the products of the neighboring country. These are purchased by its merchants, and conveyed to Asuncion in ox-wagons at the rate of 12-J- cents the aroba. Each cart carries one hundred arobas, and consumes twenty days in the travel to and from the capital, without allowing for any detention there or upon the road. Ow- ing to these embarrassments, and the exactions and monopolies of the government, the resources of this region are undeveloped. The Jesuits had here an important establishment, but the church and other buildings were destroyed by Francia's orders, and upon their ruins was erected an unpretending chapel. The shops, the principal of which was that of our friend Don Louis Homan, were gayly decked with goods. The country through which we had passed, from Asuncion to Villa Eica, one hundred and eight miles by the road, is through- put populous, picturesque, and fertile ; the campo has the appear- ance of a lovely meadow, and the fine condition of the cattle proved the excellence of its grasses. Skirting the plains are the serranias, and upon these are built the pueblos, pueblitas* capillas, and dwellings of the country people. Some of the latter are of adobe, and are spacious ; others are low thatched huts. The roll- ing lands rise in gentle slopes to a background of wooded mount- ains, which form a beautiful and effective setting to the hills, and green pastures below. There were no large plantations, but many small fields of corn, tobacco, mandioca, and a little sugar-cane. In the time of Francis, cotton was extensively cultivated for home consumption. I saw but a few plants, the growth of two or three years ; for even since the opening of the rivers in 1852, the foreign-manufactured article has worked its way into these inte- rior regions, and the people will no longer pay seventy -five cents * Pueblos, villages. Pueblitas, hamlets. 212 THE TIBIQUAEI. per yard for the domestic fabric, when they can purchase the im- ported for ten. So much for trade, even in Paraguay. The Tibiquari and Tibiquarimini, which course through fertile lands, might be made channels of communication to the river Par- aguay ; but the Tibiquari disembogues one hundred and forty -two miles below Asuncion, and one hundred and eight above Corri- entes. The products of the country would of course follow the current, and find their market in the latter city, and draw propor- tionably from the trade of the capital. This would not at all ac- cord with the aim of President Lopez, which is to make the trade of the Eepublic centre where he has the collection of the revenue under his direct supervision. It is natural that he should wish to make the ports of Paraguay the seat of their own import and ex- port trade ; but more enlarged views would suggest the naviga- tion of the Tibiquari by small steamers, or even boats ; and the building of a village, which would soon grow to a city, at its mouth. The aggregate products of the whole country through which this river flows are even now considerable, and could, from its natural fertility, be increased a hundredfold. We remained several days at Villa Eica to make observations for determining its latitude and longitude, and the variation of compass. Its position, as established by Lieutenant Welsh from altitudes of the sun, and of stars east and west, and north and south with pocket chronometer, sextant, and artificial horizon, is latitude 25 47' 10" south, longitude 56 30' 20" west; variation. 7 34' east; height above Asuncion 323 feet; and above Buenos Ayres 580. We also hoped during this delay to refresh our cargaro horses, which were now quite useless from the state of their backs, caused more by the clumsy saddle of the country than the weight of the instruments. This recado (saddle), used every where, is not only uncomfortable to the rider, as I had a fair opportunity of judging, but injurious to the horse. Indeed you scarcely see an animal much used in La Plata whose back does not show its bad effects. It serves the double purpose of saddle and bed ; and were our saddles encumbered with an equal number of skins or cloths placed under and over, they would answer as well ; but the people of these countries trouble themselves little with improvements ; old things are preferred because they are old. From the difficulty of obtaining horses, and accommodations for so large a party, I determined to divide it at Villa Eica. Lieu- TRAVELING IN THE INTERIOR. 213 tenants Ammen and Welsh were directed to take another route, while I, abandoning the daguerreotype instrument, and encum- bered only with such as were necessary for geographical determi- nation, pursued my course east, accompanied by Lieutenants Pow- ell and Henry, and Mr. Bushell. Travelers are almost unknown in the interior of Paraguay ; and, in the absence of all hotels or public houses, it is difficult to pro- cure a change of horses, accommodation, or rather provisions, for a large party. The grazing is every where fine, but an annual turned out at night is not fit for the next day's travel. At least this can not be followed up for many days successively. The people cultivate only the essentials of life. Corn, though abund- ant and cheap, is never stored, but sold, as soon as gathered, to the merchant of some neighboring village. One rarely sees bread, except in certain thrifty families, where is found the chipa, made of the flour of the bitter mandioca, an excellent substitute for that of wheat. At our first stopping-place, after leaving Villa Eica, the dwell- ing wore an unusual air of comfort, and the dinner was both abundant and well cooked. It consisted of soup, chickens, stewed beef, hominy, eggs, and milk ; all served in as many courses, but in one and the same earthen dish, out of which we, ate with wooden spoons. Plates, dishes, and knives are the luxuries only of the higher classes. We spent the night at Capilla Yacaguazu, the house of Senor Dorothio Duarte, about thirteen miles from Villa Kica. The next day, after some trouble with one of the cargaro mules which we had hired at Villa Eica to replace our worn-out horses, we crossed, about nine miles from the Capilla, the little river Yacaguazu, a tributary of the Tibiquari, and twelve miles beyond arrived at the village of San Francisco, in the department of Caasapa. The physical features of the country to that point continued unchanged; mountains and hills, covered with superb forests, inclosing fertile and populous campos. f All the lands from the Yacaguazu to the Parana, eastward, are the property of the state. The inhabitants, who are tenants of the Eepublic, pay an annual rent of two dollars the square league, and a tenth of the produce. The resources of the county under such a system can never be fully developed ; and it is said that President Lopez, aware of this, will propose to Congress a law au- thorizing the sale of these lands. But one can scarcely imagine the 214: PUESTA DEL ESTADO. action of that body necessary to enable him to carry out his will. The proclamations and edicts of his Excellency are the laws, and they command the strictest observance. , Leaving San Francisco, we reached the Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria, one of the numerous government estancias, after a travel of six hours, very hungry and tired. In this journey through Paraguay, wherever we were not tempted to enter by the neatness of a dwelling, our dining and sleeping room was always under the projecting roof common to all country-houses. "We now occupied the usual place, feasting eye and imagination upon the landscapes before us, but impatiently watching for the appearance of food for the material man. At last a servant of the state ap- peared, and announced with dignity, " Dinner is ready." We rose DINNER AT THE I'lTESTA DEL ESTADO. SCANTY DINNER. A STOKM. 215 from our seats, looked around and within, but could see nothing of the mysterious dinner. Presently out stepped two of the gal- lant defenders of the Puesta del Estado, each holding a long stick, upon which hung a piece of asado. They moved before us, grounded arms, and stood at rest. "Is that our dinner?" " Si, Senor," was the answer, accompanied by a profound obei- sance, but uttered with an air and voice which implied " What more would you have ?" "We drew our knives, and, without salt, bread, or vegetables, commenced the attack, only to experience the mortification of a defeat. The meat must have been taken from a bullock as old as a Chaco Indian. Our knives were sharp, and we assaulted vigor- ously only to be repulsed, and this too while our hungry eyes wandered over the luxuriant campos, where two thousand sleek beeves were tranquilly grazing. Surely I had offended Jupiter. I had let in " Los Portugases," and this was my punishment ; but it was not everlasting. A few fowls were running about; and one of our party, in a happy fit of inspiration, suggested eggs, on which, with a little Villa Kica bread found among the baggage, we made our dinner. For this luxurious meal and corn for our horses, the charge was one dollar. I never reported the capitan of this puesta, or he would probably have lost his place. Six miles from this hospitable posta we crossed a tributary of the little river Peripo, and dissipated our ill-humor and disap- pointment by taking a delicious bath, little thinking that we were soon to taste the same luxury in another way. Night closed in before we reached any habitation, and with it came a terrific storm. The pitchy darkness was only relieved by blinding flash- es of lightning, and we moved on step by step, not knowing where the next would lead or end ; for the vaqueano, unable to see the road or even the head of his horse, had lost his way. The rain fell in a continuous torrent, while the lightning flashed only to leave us again in more profound darkness. Hark! the bark of a dog. Following the sound, we found ourselves before a miser- able thatched shed, or hut, open on one side. It could scarcely be called a house, but it sheltered kind hearts and innocence : a man> two women, and a young child. Any port in a storm, where there is safe anchorage, is to a wearied mariner preferable to drift- ing he knows not where. We " came to," and asked for shelter. The man sprang frOm his bed, and without hesitation gave us a 216 A HUNGARIAN EMIGRANT. kind welcome, while the women soon busied themselves in kin- dling up some slumbering embers in the centre of the earthen floor, over which stood a pot. "Wet and weary, we gathered round the fire, and regaled ourselves with mate. The man offered me his only bed, a well-stretched hide ; but, declining it, I slung up a hammock, wet as my clothes, and turned in " all standing." Light repasts, fatigue, a good conscience, are the best opiates, and under their influence I was soon asleep, dreaming of home, airy cham- bers, and soft couches. Nothing could be more lovely than the appearance of the coun- try through which we traveled the following day. The storm had freshened and enlivened all vegetation. The air was soft and balmy ; the sun cast a flood of radiance upon the grassy plain, which was inclosed on all sides, apparently without outlet, by wooded mountains, and overspread by herds of horned cattle, ex- ceeding in size and fine condition any we had seen. The district was as populous as that immediately around Asuncion. Every hill-side had its adobe houses, orange-trees, and little fields of corn, tobacco, and mandioca. Amid all this wealth of pastoral agriculture we came to the res- idence of a man of refinement and education a Hungarian en- gineer, Mr. Francis Wisner, who had here, with his young wife and children, probably pitched his tent for life. Mr. "Wisner reached Paraguay in 1845, and rendered good service to the people by as- sisting them in preparing their defenses against an expected inva- sion from Corrientes. His labors were poorly requited after the danger was passed. He had made a topographical survey of the country bordering on the Tibiquari, and, at the time of our visit, was working out a beautiful map for the President. My only as- tonishment was that so intelligent a person should, without the protection of any nationality, be willing to live under such a gov- ernment. But a strong tie connects him with the country : his wife is a Paraguayan. The- laws permit no woman to leave the republic without permission of the President ; and the well-known and useful accomplishments of Mr. Wisner would probably only increase the difficulty of obtaining it. He enjoys, however, the privilege of an estate, a league square, in one of the finest regions of the earth, for which he pays the established rent of two dollars per annum, and the " diezmo." From this quarter of Paraguay the cost of transportation to the capital is twenty-five cents the aroba. Taking the one article SENOB SERGENTE LOPEZ. 217 tobacco, we find it encumbered with, the following charges : Trans- portation to Asuncion, twenty -five cents the aroba; exportation duty, twelve and a half cents; the "diezmo," or tenth, fifteen cents. Net proceeds, at the present price of tobacco (one dollar and fifty cents the aroba), eighty -three cents the aroba. The profit would be three and one third cents the pound. I was anxious to determine the position of Mr. "Wisner's house, but the weather would not permit. "We however established, by barometric measurement, its height above Asuncion, which we found to be 71 feet, and above Buenos Ayres 328 feet. It will be seen by comparison with the observations at Villa Eica and Asun- ' cion, that the former is the highest of these three points, and that after passing it there is a slight though gradual descent eastward to the Parana ; but the country bordering on the Parana, in the same parallel with Asuncion, is more elevated than that on the Paraguay. After dinner and a few hours of pleasant conversation, we con- tinued our journey, and before dark reached the residence of Senor Sergente Lopez, distant fifteen miles, making in all thirty traveled this day through the partido (district) of Bobi. The limits of the various partidos, unless defined by some natural boundary, are difficult to ascertain ; and from the difference of opinion on this subject among the inhabitants, we came to the conclusion that they troubled themselves but little to arrive at the truth. We were kindly received by Don Sergente, who gave us a sub- stantial supper of roast and stewed beef, with the after luxury of cots and neat bed -linen in our usual airy sleeping apartment under the projecting roof. I missed in this journey the refreshing luxury of a cup of tea. Although a lover of mate, and a believer in its virtues, it was to me a poor substitute for the China leaf, which in Paraguay is sold only as a medicine in the druggists' shops of Asuncion. The mate is never served at meals, as tea is with us, but is always the accompaniment of a cigar. At an early hour the next morning we crossed the little river Uputa, a tributary of the Aguapay. Eight miles beyond is the dividing line between Bobi and San Casmi. Seeing a house with fine patches of corn around it, we thought it a good place for breakfast. It proved to be the residence of an old lady, who, un- like Senora Dalmacia, gave us a kind reception. The dwellings of the country people are uniformly on the public roads ; and by 218 SWIMMING A EIVER. keeping a bright look-out for the significant indications of good cheer, cattle, small fields of corn, and mandioca, a traveler may generally, without fear of disappointment, find enough to satisfy his appetite. We had been but a short time at the Senora's when an agitation among the chickens, and certain other unmistakable signs, gave a pleasant forewarning of dinner. The good woman soon placed it before us, then placidly seated herself at a table near, and continued her work, making cigars from tobacco which hung from the roof, and had only a month or two before been cut from the field. To all appearance the leaf was of a fine quality ; and after rolling one up in the neatest manner, she gravely placed it by my plate, with a request that I would smoke it. I asked her to make me a few, and though so fresh they proved ex- cellent. Until the arrival of the American Company there was not, even at Asuncion, an appointed place for making- or selling cigars, though many thousands were exported monthly. Individuals who bought for their own use, or merchants requiring them for do- mestic trade or exportation, ordered them from different country families, and they were always punctually delivered their shape and size varying according to order. Twelve miles beyond Dona Clara's we reached the Taquari, a tributary of the Parana, and the dividing line between the partidos San Casmi and Carmen. It was so much swollen by the backing up of the waters of the Parana that we were obliged to cross in canoes ; the horses swimming alongside and literally carrying us over by " horse power." After passing this river we came to our resting-place for the night, the " Capilla Carmen," where we were well received by the commandante, Mariano Senturian, at whose house we had been advised to stop. The country from Villa Kica is generally campo, intersected by several streams and skirted by wooded ridges of rolling lands. The soil of the latter is argillaceous, while that of the plain is a rich dark loam. 'The estancias are not so numerous as between Asuncion and Villa Eica, the largest being those of the govern- ment ; but the herds of cattle are superb. There was no great variety in the articles cultivated. Every where we saw tobacco, corn, mandioca, pumpkins, onions, oranges, and melons. The latter, though small, were of delicious flavor. This poverty in the variety of fruits and vegetables arises only from the extreme indifference of the people, who have no market CLIMATE AND PKODUCTIONS. 221 for such products, and care little for what we consider the luxuries of the table. It is almost impossible to name a tropical fruit which, if planted here, does not thrive with the least possible care. Bananas, plant- ains, and pine-apples are cultivated on a limited scale ; but in no country do they mature in greater perfection. So with coffee. I saw it growing in one place only, but it was particularly fine. Give the Paraguayans mate, beef, and mandioca, and they are satisfied. Their forests yield the first, and the native pastures support their cattle. Shut out, first by the policy of Spain, and again by the tyranny of Francia, from all communication with other lands, they neither know nor desire their luxuries. The climate is deliciously soft ; and with the festivals of the Church, and an occasional "dance," to break the monotony of existence, they dream it away, imagining that the true and only Elysium is Paraguay. We saw a few deer. Among the domestic animals are sheep, but no hogs. The woodlands are probably rich in flora and birds ; but traveling almost continuously through a level open country, we saw very few. Jaguars are rarely seen in this part of Para- guay, but infest the forests bordering on the rivers. Among the birds, the most common was the small partridge. As we approached the Parana the country continued fertile, populous and picturesque ; beautifully diversified by plains and wooded ridges. Under beneficent legislation, with such a wealth of soil and climate, surely the happiness of a golden age might here be realized. In all Paraguay I have not yet met a medical man. At Asun- cion, and a few of the towns only, "curanderos" are found. These are men supposed to be skilled in the knowledge and ap- plication of the remedios drawn from the vegetation of the country. Falconer,* both physician and botanist, says : " Paraguay is en- riched by the bounty of nature with so many wholesome plants, roots, gums, woods, and fruits, that whoever is skilled in the knowl- edge of these things would have no occasion for European drug- gists to cure any disease." Nearly all families of the country un- derstand the power and use of these remedies. We made this journey in February, the last summer month, the * An English Jesuit. When he wrote, all La Plata was called Paraguay, but the Jesuits were particularly acquainted with all the northern and western prov- inces. 222 ENCARNACION. CARMEN. hottest of the year. In the course of each day and night we entered three or four different houses, and yet heard of no sick individuals or families. Malignant fevers are unknown. On sev- eral occasions we met with men over eighty, vigorous in mind and body, who assured us they had never experienced a day of indisposition. We generally slept under the projecting roof, and I remember no night that was not' deliciously cool so much so, that my blanket-shawl was always an essential covering. The barometer and thermometer were both accidentally broken, which I regretted, as I wished to measure the height of Ytapua now Encarnacion with Asuncion, and continue meteorological observations. Our register of temperatures up to the 17th, in- clusive, gave a maximum of heat, at 3 P.M., of 94, minimum 86 ; and yet, with the wind from the north for it is only from that quarter that so high a range is produced this temperature was not oppressive. The position of Carmen, latitude 27 12' 30" S., longitude 56 14' 21" W., was determined by Lieutenant Powell at a subsequent period. In consequence of an accident to the pocket - chronometer before my return to Asuncion, which pre- vented a comparison and verification of its error and rate with our standard, I was unwilling to assume the results of our work as correct. Lieutenant Powell, who afterward visited the interior of the country, was directed in his returning to take the same route from and after his arrival at Villa Kica a place satisfactorily determined and to make all necessary observations at each of the prominent points where they had been previously made, and the geographical positions of which I deemed it important to es- tablish with every degree of accuracy. The Puebla Carmen is a new place, built after the abandonment of Ytapua, and contains about one thousand inhabitants. Why was Encarnacion deserted ? After considerable negotiation with foreign powers, Paraguay opened a port on the Parana. She re- gretted the concession ; but there was only one way of avoiding the stipulations of the treaty and keeping the portals closed. This was by building up a new village twenty-one miles in the interior, and making it the centre of trade for all the neighboring country. President Lopez proved in this instance that if he can not move mountains he can change the position of towns. He who dares look back to Encarnacion will be turned into one of the pillars of the state a soldier. Nothing could have been kinder than our reception by Don EL SECRETARIO. YTAPUA. 223 Mariano. He added to our obligations by the offer of fresh, horses to Ytapua. We started in great spirits, and soon came to the river Yun, a tributary of the Parana, which was crossed in a canoe, the horses as usual carrying it over by swimming alongside. This river is the dividing line between the departments Carmen and Encarnacion, being distant from the former fifteen miles. One mile beyond this we passed over the Boicaja, also a tributary of the Parana. The country from Carmen to Ytapua is rolling, with an argillaceous soil, bearing a little wheat of indifferent quality. When within a mile of Ytapua we missed one of our party, " El Secretario" of the Paraguayans, the " Colonel" of the younger officers, and, in truth, the captain's clerk. He was a son of the Emerald Isle; one more "skilled in the tongues" than in horse- manship. Mounted on rather a mettlesome steed, with dragoon saddle and holsters, containing a formidable pair of horse-pistols ; with feet barely touching the stirrups, lengthened to the last hole, the colonel was, when mounted, a true knight a scion of the royal O'Neals. From the first elevation we looked back anxiously for our missing companion. A riderless horse was flying over the plains, lashed at every step by holsters and saddle-skirts ; while on foot, and in hot pursuit, was the colonel. Judging from his agile movements that the physical frame was unharmed, and knowing that both rider and steed must " bring up" at some neighboring corral, we quietly pursued our way. While hob-nobbing over a glass of cana with the commandante, in walked our friend, a little worn from his exercise under a temperature of 90, but declaring earnestly that he had only dismounted to arrange the equipments of his steed, when he gave him the slip. Ytapua was one of the most famous of the Jesuit reductions ; but its glory has passed away ; that is, the glory of Jesuitic civil- ization yet nature is still beautiful. The Parana already by the accumulated waters of many navigable streams a mighty river, one mile and a quarter wide rolls on majestically between a border- ing of lofty trees. It will probably be found navigable from Ytapua to the ocean for river steamers, for the Jesuits descended to Corrientes from this point in vessels of four and five feet draught. The falls of Apipe, one thousand miles from the capes of La Plata, obstruct, for the first time, its navigation by large vessels ; such, at least, is the generally received opinion ; but having reason to doubt this fact, I sent the Water Witch to ex- amine those rapids, while I was engaged in prosecuting another 224 WEALTHY CHURCHES. branch of the work. In passing the Paraguayan fort of Itapiru, she was dastardly fired into, and one man killed. But I am anticipating. CHAPTER XIII. Francia. Religion and the Churches. Ytapua.-^-The Commandante and Soldiers. Navigability of the Parana. Carmen. Equipments of Horses. Mission of San Cosmi. Estancia San Rafael. Mate. Frescoes. D. Ignacio's Horse. Capilla San Martin. The Supper. Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. Estancia of Sefiora Casara. The Merchant President. Senor Cabenas. Capilla Caa- pucu. Senor Vasconcellos. The Diezmo. Public Lands. Senor Bergarran. Iron Works. The Waiter. The Superintendent. Ibicui. Mineral Districts. Products and Exports of Paraguay. The Surgeon of the Water Witch. Beauty and Fertility of the Country. Presidential Election. No Admittance. A Motion to make the President Emperor. The Constitution. Individual Wealth. Cotton. Lists of Exports from Asuncion. THE ruins of a church and a few dilapidated houses are all that remain of one of the most celebrated of the Parana missions. Francia finished what the immediate successors of the Jesuits spared. The Dictator was no hypocrite in religion. On all oc- casions he manifested an indifference to its outer observance and contempt for the priests, who, he was repeatedly heard to say, " rather tend to make these people believe in the devil than in God." Even within the memory of living Paraguayans, some of these churches were rich in vessels of precious metals, statuettes of the twelve apostles in solid silver, paintings, and carving. The church of Ytapua was one of the most beautiful of these. A massive foundation, three hundred and twenty feet by eighty, and a few feet of the superstructure, are all that remain of this edifice. It was despoiled, but not demolished, by Francia. In 1846 serv- ice was still held within its walls. They were taken down in this year by order of President Lopez, who was told that the con- dition of the building made it unsafe. But the work of demo- lition showed its strength ; and the President, I was informed, greatly regretted his agency in the destruction of one of the finest Jesuitic monuments of the country. The residences of the Fathers, built of stone and brick, were in excellent preservation, and seem- ed to defy the ravages of time. One of them was occupied by the commandante, who assured me that it had never, within the memory of living man, been repaired, and yet the wood- work, especially those parts that had not been exposed to the elements, NAVIGABILITY OF THE PARANA. 225 was perfect ; the bamboo slats, laid transversely across the rafters as a support for the tiling, looked untouched by time. The commandante was hospitable, and celebrated our arrival by making himself gloriously happy with cana. He entertained us with marvelous stories of battles fought and won by Para- guayans ; of his own deeds of valor and single-handed combat ; all of which impressed us profoundly with the vivacious imagination and talent for military narration of this officer of the republic. Tired, sleepy, and fearing that he might mistake us for the enemy, we retreated at an early hour to our hammocks. When Bucurelli carried out the instructions of the Count of Aranda, the Jesuits were constructing a church at the " Mission Jesus," near the Pueblo Trinidad, about twenty miles above on the Parana the highest point on that river to which the Paraguay missions extended. But neither the magnificence of its design nor the beauty of the masonry and wood- work much of which was completed could save it from the vandalism of Francia, who ordered it to be destroyed. Some few of these churches San Cosmi, Santiago, Santa Kosa were spared, and we visited them in the return route to Asuncion. On the 22d of February a day remembered by all Americans, wherever they may be we left for Carmen, carrying with us, as a souvenir of Ytapua, a bit of the stone of the old church, which seems to be veined with copper. With the exception of one dis- trict, and this extending but a few miles, the country was as thickly populated as that immediately around Asuncion. The dwellings were of a better order, and the cultivation very fair. The Para- na, unobstructed to the Atlantic, is an outlet for all Eastern Para- guay. I have several times alluded to the determination of the President to concentrate the whole trade of the country at the capital ; and if he tells the people of the East that the Parana is not navigable to Corrientes, no charts based upon the most reliable data could convince them that his Excellency's assertion was in- correct. When I told them of the floating palaces carrying mil- lions of freight over our interior water-courses, with a draught of only two or three feet, they looked as if they thought I was en- tertaining them with a "yarn." The cataract of La Gruayra and the rapids of Apipe are regarded by President Lopez only as magnificent fortifications provided by nature for Paraguay, against all outside enemies; more particularly against her neighbors, " Los Portugases." The resources of this district are as unbounded as 15 226 MISSION OF SAN COSMI. those of the West ; and the wealth of the Jesuits, derived from their agricultural labors in a small part of it, is the best evidence of its fertility. The soil of the hills between Encarnacion and Carmen is a reddish clay, while that of the flat lands is a black argillaceous loam, resembling alluvial deposit. The Paraguayans, like all Spanish Americans, take much pride in the equipments of their horses. The Bolivian officers whom we met in Brazil had presented me with a saddle-covering, made of the skin of the " pareroso" (the sloth), an animal not found in Paraguay. It had apparently excited the admiration of many during this journey. On leaving Carmen, I gave it to Don Mari- ano, as a souvenir of our party. My offering was received with unaffected pleasure, and we parted with many expressions on his part of esteem for us all. As I had determined to return to Asuncion by a more southern route, we started for San Cosmi, another of the abandoned mis- sions. It is but twelve miles from Carmen, and in that distance we passed in canoes over two small tributaries of the Parana, the Taquari, and the Aguape. This mode of crossing was trouble- some, for it always involved the unloading and loading of the cargaro mules. This mission, according to our observations, is in latitude 27 19' 9" south, and longitude 56 24' 48''; variation 7 35' east. It is within half a mile of the Parana, of which and the neighboring country it commands an extensive view. The church and other buildings were in excellent preservation ; but the jefe was absent, and the next dignitary, " el secretario," would not take the mighty responsibility of opening the sacred edifice, so we were obliged to content ourselves with admiring the exte- rior. It was three hundred feet by seventy ; constructed of a red sandstone of fine grain, not unlike that so much used in our coun- try at present, but of a lighter hue. The front entrance was sup- ported by octagonal columns of the same stone, twenty feet in length, two in diameter, each of one piece, and beautifully cut. " El secretario" told us that the columns and-flagging of the inte- rior were of this material, which had been taken from a neighbor- ing quarry on the Parana. Leaving San Cosmi the following morning, we stopped, after a ride of five hours, for siesta, at the Estancia San Eafael. Be- tween the two missions, distant from each other thirty miles, we crossed one stream, the Arroyo Atingi, nine miles east of Santia- go. The first part of the day's travel was made through a campo, DEINKING MATE. 227 but before reaching the mission we entered a rolling country. On one of its wooded elevations, twenty-seven miles from the Pa- rana, stood the buildings of Santiago. Biding into a large court, formed by the church and adjoining houses, we were most kindly received by the jefe, Senor Don Francisco Ignacio Silvero, who ushered us into a clean, comfortable dining-room, where mate and cigars were soon followed by an excellent supper. I was much impressed by the extreme neatness of the jefe's dwelling, and the simple manners, but perfect ease and good-breeding, of his wife and daughter. After supper we retired to sleeping-rooms, where were snowy beds and hammocks another evidence Of the comfort and refinement of this home, not less refreshing than astonishing, when we reflected that we were in a remote corner of an isolated country. Early rising is a fixed habit with the Paraguayans. The next morning, before we were aware of the hour, there was a tap at the door, followed by the entrance of a little negro holding in each hand a mate. This nation- al beverage is served in a gourd, often richly ornamented, and is imbibed through a bombilla, a metallic tube, which at the bottom expands into a bulb, pierced with holes to act as a strainer. As often as these were emptied they were replenished by the darkey, until we remembered the custom of the country, and said " Gracias" In all well-regulated houses the servant continues to serve the national beverage, regardless of quantity, until this word, which means both " Thanks" and " Enough," is uttered. Kefreshed by this tea, and well supplied with fine cigars, the breakfast of the early morn- ing was made. Accompanied by our host, we went to visit the church, a grand old build- ing three hundred feet long and in excellent preservation, so far as time and the elements had worked ; but cupidity and vandalism had despoiled it of its ornaments. The ceilings were elaborately frescoed, and there was a vast deal of gilding, statuary, and carving in wood ; but, mutilated and defaced as they were, only 228 CHURCH AT SANTIAGO. YERBA. the eye of an artist or connoisseur could have traced any beauty, in subject or outlines. It must be remembered that I had neither written record nor garrulous guide to aid my eye or imagination ; and, having little knowledge of art, I will not mislead by attempt at description. This was the second church erected by the Jesuits in Paraguay, the first being that of San Ignacio. It must, there- fore, have stood over two centuries, and yet its solid stone walls looked as if they might battle with time for a thousand years to come. Enough remained to fill the most indifferent observer with wonder, in remembering that a half-dozen Jesuits and their Indian neophytes were the architects, builders, sculptors, and painters of this wilderness. The people of the country dwell much upon the wealth and beauty of these churches, even to the time of " El De- funto;" and in the course of this journey we saw frequently pieces of plate that looked suspiciously like "sacred vessels." The surrounding buildings were in good order, and generally occupied by Meztizos, whose physiognomies were much more Gruarani than Spanish. The church, its columns and flagging, as well as the adjoining buildings, were of the red sandstone to which I have before alluded. In one of the latter were several hand- looms, the property of the government, for weaving cotton clqth. Our next visit was to a grove of "yerba," the "Ilex Paraguay - ensis" which is not indigenous to this part of Paraguay. In size and foliage it resembles the orange-tree ; its flowers grow in clus- ters, are white, and closely resemble those of our elder. When matured, the _segds are perfectly black, and very like grains of pepper, f I procured some, and sent them, carefully sealed in a tin box, 'to the United States, but have never been able to learn any thing of them since my return. The yerba is found in Bra- zil, but the Paraguay leaf is considered greatly superior, and is so eagerly sought in every part of Spanish America that it might become a source of large revenue both to the government and people, were it not that at present the trade is monopolized by the former, and the supply for export consequently very much diminished. The Jesuits made plantations of this tree, had sev- eral varieties of it at all their missions, and found the quality im- proved by culture. This little grove had been propagated from the old stock, and yielded enough for the wants of the few fami- lies at the mission. "We made the usual observations, which, for reasons before ' given, were imperfect ; but this was among the places subsequent- DINNER AT THE CAPILLA SAN MARTIN. 231 ly determined by Lieutenant Powell, and found to be in latitude 27 7' 39" south, longitude 56 50' 21" west, variation 7 .4' east. The position of Santiago is perhaps not so attractive as that of either San Cosmi or Ytapua ; but from the better condition of the church and other buildings, and from the fine cultivation of the surrounding country, it was far more interesting. I thought I could see the influence of the jefe's example, and that presented by the order of his household, upon the whole community. Wheat was growing in this neighborhood, but the grain was not well matured. The morning's work was followed by an excel- lent dinner ; and when about to continue our journey, Don Igna- cio asked my acceptance of a horse : I begged him not to add to my obligations ; but he said the animal should be sent to Asun- cion, where he would himself again see us, as he was one of the representatives of the new Congress to assemble in March for the election of President. He was true to his word. Only a few days had elapsed after our arrival at the capital, when one of the finest horses I had yet seen in Paraguay was brought to my quar- ters, with the compliments of Don Ignacio. At sunset we reached the " Capilla San Martin," our resting- place for the night, after a ride of eleven miles through a country sparsely wooded, but cultivated and populous. The soil is a red- dish clay. The occupant of the one house at this place met all the demands of hospitality by giving us the best his larder afford- ed. This was a supper of stewed beef served in a large earthen dish, which was placed in the centre of a small round table, with- out knives, forks, or plates. But armed, as each was, with a wooden spoon, and aided by good appetites, and a little instruc- tion from our host, Don Antonio, we made an excellent supper. At its conclusion, a negro boy, who had stood during the repast like a statue behind the chair of his master, suddenly clasped his hands, and with the gravity of a bishop returned thanks in a clear, distinct voice. Cigars followed the "grace," and soon after we retired to our hammocks, slung up as usual outside of the house. In the morning, before day had fairly dawned, I was awakened by voices near me. Some ten or twelve peons, or laborers of the estancia, were standing before the entrance of the dwelling. One of them knocked upon the door, giving the salutation " Ave Ma- ria" " Sin pecado concebida" said Don Antonio" solemnly, as he stepped out to give them a blessing, in Ghiarani; after which they 232 MISSIONS OF SANTA MARIA AND SANTA EOSA. dispersed. I afterward learned that this was the daily custom of many estancieros of the neighborhood. We were yet within the limits of the Missions. The old church- es with their surroundings, and these domestic religious observ- ances, are the only traces of an order that dominated over this re- gion for a century and a half. Starting at an early hour from the Capilla San Martin, we trav- eled for twenty-seven miles through a fine, fertile, populous coun- try, diversified by rolling lands and plains. On the route we vis- ited two other abandoned missions, Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. The church of the first was of the same material and dimensions as those we had already seen; the frescoes, carving, and gilding were even more elaborate. A few pictures still hung around the sanctuary, and what remained of the wood- work was extremely beautiful. The exquisite color and fine texture of the Paraguay woods make them invaluable for such a purpose. Santa Rosa was also constructed of fine sandstone, and differed only in size from those already described, being rather smaller. It was in such admirable condition that I regretted the loss of our daguerreo- type instruments, which would have enabled me to present some representations of its frescoes. Ulloa tells us that the churches of these Paraguayan missions equaled the finest ecclesiastical struc- tures in Peru ; and other writers give us the impression that those of Peru were unsurpassed by many of the finest in Spain. We met with a hospitable reception at the estancia of Senora Maria Petronella Casara, in the Partido of San Juan, where we stopped for the night. The position of her dwelling, on a wooded hill, was beautiful, and the improvements within and around it were superior to any we had yet seen. There were touches of foreign taste and comfort, which were explained when Senora Ma- ria informed me that she was the widow of a " Frenchman," as all foreigners are called in Paraguay, the people troubling them- selves little with geographical science. We were repeatedly ask- ed if we were Frenchmen, and were regarded doubtfully when we answered in the negative. It is whispered that President Lopez is both a sleeping and wide-awake partner in a "Paraguay House" at Paris, and that the periodical arrival of certain gay fabrics and fashions serves to keep alive this impression of French ascendency among the female portion of the population. Senora Maria gave us an excellent supper, but was much annoyed at not receiving more assistance in its preparation from her two fair daughters, SENOK CABENAS. CAAPUCU. 233 who evidently found the society of the young officers of my party more agreeable than household duties. The next morning, after being served, as usual, with mate, we said " adios 1 ' 1 to the ladies, and continued our journey. For twelve miles this lay through an unbroken plain, without apparently any unoccupied spaces, so numerous were estancias and farms. Near the Capilla San Miguel we crossed the Tibiquari, which at low water has a depth of from three to four feet. This river forms the northern and western boundary of the " Missions." Six miles beyond we stopped for dinner and siesta at the house of a rich estaneiero, Senor Cabenas, where we met with unusual luxury. Dinner was served on massive plate ; water-goblets and salvers were also of pure silver. All other appointments of this establishment, though simple, were exceedingly comfortable. In Paraguay the siesta follows dinner as naturally as day is succeeded by night. So, after cigars and a chat with our host, who was a man of intelligence and polished manners, we were shown to sleep- ing apartments, where the extreme neatness of beds and ham- mocks invited repose. Our next resting-place for the night was the Capilla Caapucu, distant from the estancia of Senor Cabenas nine miles. Since leaving the Tibiquari we had found the lands fertile. Mountains, forests, and plains, all brilliant with verdure, made the aspect of the country impressively beautiful. In Paraguay foreigners are a " sight," and when we reached Caapucu all occupants of the surrounding houses collected to see us dismount. We were well received, but I thought the poor jefe looked embarrassed at the arrival of so large a party. However, relief was at hand. A gentleman rode up on a fine spirited horse, and, from a whispered conversation, with many glances at us, I " guessed" that we were the subject of a talk. The horseman dis- mounted, came forward, and invited us cordially to return with him to his estancia, which he represented as being near. We were very tired ; but presuming that this arrangement was made to relieve the jefe, who found it inconvenient to accommodate so many persons, we followed Senor Yasconcellos. His dwelling, which I had supposed within a short distance of the Capilla, gave us a ride of six miles ; but the jovial conversation of our new friend, the courteous reception given us by his wife and daughter, and a bountiful supper, fully compensated for the trouble. He was a Portuguese, who, thirty years before, had stepped over from 234 SENOR VASCONCELLOS. Brazil into Paraguay, had married a daughter of the republic, be- coming one of its citizens, and the father of a large family. It was novel and refreshing to meet a man of intelligence who seemed neither disturbed by the ghost of Francia, nor the living power of Lopez, and who could converse freely and with spirit upon the state of the country. The absence of statistics, and the timid re- serve of the inhabitants in alluding to the government, made it very difficult to arrive at a fair estimate of the condition and re- sources of Paraguay. The people always spoke with hesitation and in a low voice, as if they feared that the walls had ears or we were spies. Senor Yasconcellos was surrounded by much to make him happy. It is true his lands were the property of the state, but he had fine herds of cattle, a garden, a spacious stone house, pleasant family circle, and a daughter happily married, and residing upon an adjoining estancia. Bad weather detained us three days, and gave me the oppor- tunity of visiting his son-in-law, whose house and grounds were in better condition than many we had seen, and showed, I thought, the influence and energy of the father-in-law. "While strolling over his land I observed indications of iron, and said to him, " I think you have a vein of iron ore on your estan- cia?" He replied gravely, " My dear sir, it is the last thing I should care to find; for my land is public domain, and if ore is discovered I must be forced to relinquish it to the government, and make another home." In the course of our walk, I saw a magnificent copaiba ; the ground beneath was covered with its seeds, a few of which I col- lected and sent to the United States. From a small tree in the yard of Senor Yasconcellos I also gathered seeds of the hurucu, which were likewise sent home. The latter yield a fine red paint, greatly sought by the Indians to adorn their bodies, and occasion- ally used in Paraguay for painting the interior wood-work of houses. The natives extract the color by the very simple process of soaking the seeds for some days in glue water. I experimented by leaving them in a glass of pure water for twenty -four hours, when, finding the coloring matter well extracted, I poured the whole through a piece of gauze ; the sediment remained, a fine powder of brilliant hue. Though two dollars the square league is the fixed price for the THE DIEZMO. 235 rent of these lands the diezmo is a heavy impost. It is, in fact, half of the "royal fifth}' 1 Among the last and very few good de- crees of Francia was one abolishing this tax, but it was imposed anew by Lopez. A tenth part of the increase of the herds I saw upon these two estancias would be no inconsiderable rent, and the revenue of the government from this source, though not made known, must be very considerable, for the tenth of every product, even that of vegetables and fowls, is exacted. As the actual col- lection and sale of the diezmo in kind would be a troublesome business, each partido is farmed put to the highest bidder, who again bargains with the producer, or estanciero, for his portion, or its equivalent. The small farmers rarely have money, therefore their produce is sold at the nearest village. The people, as might be expected under such a system, evade the law by the most amusing and ingenious expedients, such as planting nine rows of mandioca, and declaring that there can be no tenth. If government would pursue a more enlightened policy, sell the public lands, reduce the export duties, abolish the diezmo, the monopolies in timber, yerba, caoutchouc, etc., the enterprise of the Paraguayans would be awakened by the stimulus of trade, and the public revenue would probably greatly exceed its present amount. There might be, even for Paraguay, a "manifest des- tiny." Lopez has the ability, if he had the will, to imitate Ur- quiza, and put the ball in motion. The public lands embrace three fourths of the whole country, and there is a governmental control even over the actual products of each partido. The commander of a district may order one tenant to cultivate tobacco, another corn, making them all in fact but laborers of the state. I parted with regret from our new friends, but with the expect- ation of meeting Senor Yasconcellos soon at Asuncion, as he had been chosen a member of the ensuing Congress. Our road, for twenty miles, lay through a fine rolling country, and at noon we reached the Estancia Bergarran. I proposed stopping at this place for dinner and siesta. As we approached the dwelling, which was placed upon a hill and embowered by magnificent trees, a venerable old man, who was seated before the entrance, came forward, and with a dignified but courteous man- ner, said, " Pasa adelante, Senores" How pleasantly that greeting of Senor Bergarran sounded to our tired party ! and yet literally it meant but "Walk in, sirs." 236 SENOR BERGARRAN. IRON-WORKS. Books are rarely numbered among the luxuries or resources of Paraguayans ; I was therefore somewhat astonished to find that our host possessed a small but admirable collection. The title of a little Spanish pamphlet attracted my attention. It was the " Articles of the Confederation of the Thirteen Original States of North America : December 4th, 1776." . Senor Bergarran has been a prominent man in Paraguay, and is said to be still very popular with a large party, who, after the death of Francia, wished 'to place him at the head of the government. He was very cau- tious in alluding to the present condition of his country, but was evidently a man of more than ordinary intelligence. Our next resting-place was to be at the Government Iron Works, the buildings of which are at the foot of the Sierra Mbonaypey, upon the banks of a small river navigable for boats to the Tibi- quari. The mountains were covered from base to summit with forests of gigantic trees, and the superintendent of the works a Swede, Senor Don Augusto Lidiedat told me that they teemed with a precious vegetation, rare medicinal plants, gums, resins, dye-stuffs, and woods valued for all mechanical or ornamental purposes. He had made a collection of plants, studied their prop- erties, and now used Jhem exclusively and successfully in medical practice among the workmen of the mines. With all the eager- ness and the indomitable perseverance that characterized the Span- ish conquerors in their search for gold, and all the energy of the Jesuits in developing the resources of Paraguay, it seems inex- plicable that they should have totally overlooked its mountain ranges. No scientific explorations have yet been made in these districts, and up to this time iron ore and zinc are the only dis- coveries.* Like the ranges of Northwestern Brazil, they will probably be found rich in a variety of minerals. The ore of Caapucu yields seventy -four per cent. ; that of San Miguel forty-eight. The latter, though smaller in quantity, is said to be unequaled in quality. The superintendent gave me specimens of these ores, also some of zinc ; and though the lands yielding the last have been but partially examined, they indicate an abundant supply. Properly worked by private enterprise, the mines already opened would probably supply not only Paraguay, but the lower states of La Plata. All works of this kind must necessarily be initiated by foreigners; but their labors are not * And these have been pronounced, by former writers on Paraguay, as not ex- isting within its territory. A WEALTHY CONVICT. IBICUI. 237 properly appreciated or rewarded. The machinery for this place was commenced by an Englishman, who died before its comple- tion ; and the present superintendent, though a man of ability and energy, was, before we left the country, coolly informed that his services were no longer needed. Don Augusto made some additions to our botanic collections, and seemed delighted to have an opportunity of unreserved conversation with foreigners, who could appreciate and understand his labors. My attention was attracted by the appearance of a man who waited on the table during dinner ; his dress was more that of a country gentleman than a servant, and his countenance peculiarly sad and subdued. I found my eyes continually wandering toward this individual, whose manner disquieted me, for he moved about heavily, and as if his task was a weary one. After dinner the superintendent asked me if I had observed the waiter. " Yes. "What is he ? "Who is he ?" " The richest man in Eastern Paraguay. He has a very large, well-stocked estancia." " And yet is here as a servant?" " Yes ; he was guilty of the ungallant act of whipping a wom- an, and the President has degraded him to be a servant at the Iron "Works. He will, at last, liberate himself only by paying a large sum, or its equivalent in cattle." So much for the rights of women and the summary administra- tion of the law. The next morning, after a cup of coffee an unusual luxury in Paraguay we continued our journey. The rain poured in tor- rents ; and, thoroughly drenched, we arrived at Ibicui, unfortu- nately at the hour of siesta. We called first at the house of the juez. He was asleep, and could not be disturbed. We rode on to the " Padre's ;" and as I told the vaqueano that shelter must be found, he assumed the great responsibility of having the rev- erend gentleman awakened, and we were shown by his orders to a vacant house. The horses were turned into the plaza to graze ; and the vaqueano, who went in search of supplies, returned fol- lowed by a woman who undertook to cook a supper of asado and pucharo. Then slinging up hammocks, or settling ourselves upon the brick floor, with saddles and ponchos for bedding, we prepared to spend the night. Ibicui was one of the few places at which we met with inhospitable treatment ; and this I attributed to our un- 238 PRODUCTS AND EXPORTS. fortunate arrival at the time of siesta. One might arouse a Par- aguayan at any hour of the night, and find him good-natured; but at the hour of siesta, never. The next morning we left this village, the position of which, at the base of the Siejra Tatuqua, a truncated cone, was very beautiful. Traveling through a fine campo, watered by the small stream Canavaz, we reached the house of Senora Maria Patrone Aldena, where we breakfasted. From this place our 'road lay through a narrow valley, hemmed in on either side by high mountains, their low ridges covered with the adobe houses, or thatched huts, of a comparatively dense population. Passing the Pueblo Paraguayri the nearest approach we had yet made to our outward-bound route we arrived for the night at a govern- ment posta, and with difficulty obtained provision for man or beast. Our next and last day's journey to Asuncion, 45 miles, was through a fertile, populous, rolling country, with magnificent forests. The soil is sandy. I had now, by a circuitous route, traveled 600 miles, through what was represented to me as the most populous districts of Paraguay, and found them every where abounding in natural re- sources. Science has made no progressive innovations in the processes of culture. The agricultural and mechanical imple- ments are still of the rudest description ; the plows are of wood ; cotton is spun and woven by hand-looms ; sugar-cane is pressed in wooden mills; and cigars are manufactured by families at their own dwellings. The actual products are undoubtedly meagre, when we consider the adaptation of both soil and climate to agri- culture ; and yet the aggregate amount, even under the present primitive system, is considerable. The indigenous vegetation is extraordinarily prolific. Forests and plains teem with medical and edible plants, gums, resins, and dye-stuffs. Many woods pos- sess the value of metals, in their power to resist the action of water and atmosphere?] The fibrous tissues of several abundant species of aloe furnish a new raw material for manufacturing en- terprise. The yerba, as the experiments of the Jesuits proved, can be grown in quantities to meet any demand. I might be suspected of exaggeration if I should enumerate the many articles, such as caoutchouc, wax, palm oil, indigo, cotton, rice, sugar, and coffee, that could be added as staple commodities to those named, as legitimately recognized in the trade of this country. Indigo, though cultivated to a most limited extent, might become one of CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 39 the most valuable articles of export. There are several varieties growing wild, and their quality, so far as tested, seems little infe- rior to the cultivated plant. According to Azara, silk could be produced, as the mulberry is indigenous. Before the Kevolution the exports of Paraguay to Buenos Ayres and the interior provinces of La Plata reached nearly a million and a half of dollars. Among them were eight million pounds of yerba and a million pounds of tobacco. After the mo- nopoly of the sale of tobacco by the " Kegia" of Spain, the supply for the mother country fell from 15,000 to 5000 quintals. I have made no allusion to the culture of the sugar-cane. It grows readily, but receives little attention; a few rows yield molasses enough for home consumption and a small quantity for exporta- tion. Though "yerba" is found in the humblest hut, the people generally prefer "mate amargo" (bitter mate). Though our journey was made during the last summer month, February, we found it warm, but not oppressive. The nights were uniformly pleasantly cool, and I avoided the he"at of a me- ridional sun by stopping for siesta and dinner. The temperature ranged from 76 to 90 not often above the first. These ex- tremes are produced more decidedly by the shifting of the wind than by a change of seasons; those from the south causing a rapid fall in the thermometer, while those from the equatorial regions produce the reverse effect and the greatest degree of heat. I often slept in the open air, but experienced no bad effects. The usual sleeping-place of both officers and crew of the Water Witch was on deck, under an awning, yet we had but a few cases of slight chills, which yielded readily to the usual medical treatment, and very often were escaped altogether by avoiding unnecessary exposure and too great indulgence in fruit. In referring to my journal for the months of March and April, my attention is par- ticularly attracted by the very great range of the thermometer for this latitude 25 south. It says : "March 31st. 4P.M. Wind north; thermometer 80 ; cool and pleasant. April 4:th. Yesterday and to-day, at 7 A.M., thermome- ter 63 ; wind northeast ; weather clear. April 7th. Thermome- ter 93 ; wind northeast ; weather clear." Such changes are sensibly felt, and would doubtless produce sickness were not the variations from a high to a low tempera- ture of very short continuance. In no part of Paraguay that I visited, not even at Asuncion, 240 COTTON. SCENERY. could a physician find full occupation or obtain a maintenance. When at the capital, the surgeon of the Water Witch was occa- sionally sent for ; but he made no charge, not even the established one of twelve and a half cents the visit. So unusual is such at- tendance that, when he gave a prescription, he was frequently questioned by the patient or a member of the family as to the price of the medicine. ] There is little individual wealth. The property of the richest man would scarcely bring $50,000. But there are few or none positively needy ; for Nature, with wondrous bounty, supplies the necessities of her children almost without exertion, and the com- forts essential to health under the seasonal vicissitudes of other latitudes are here unnecessary. The principal exports at present are yerba, tobacco, oranges, mandioca (converted into starch and sweetmeats), ground-nuts, molasses, cana, and rum. It will be ob- served that cotton is not enumerated, and yet Ulloa says, in speak- ing of the resources of Paraguay : " Cotton contributes consider- ably to their riches, growing here in such quantities that every little village gathers of it annually above two thousand arobas, and the industrious are very ingenious in weaving it into stuffs for exportation." Both climate and soil are admirably adapted to its growth ; but the low rate at which merchants are enabled profitably to introduce the foreign manufactured article, which now, in value, exceeds the aggregate amount of all other importa- tions, has caused the abandonment of its culture. The retail price of domestic cottons, previously to the opening of the rivers, va- ried, according to its quality, from fifty cents to one dollar and fifty cents per yard. Now the foreign article sells from 6J to 20 cents, and the raw product, in very small quantities, for 12f cents the pound, in the seed. It is spun with the distaff, woven in hand- looms, worked into embroidered skirts and house-linen, which are sold abroad only as specimens of Paraguayan handiwork. I can convey no faithful impression of the beauty of the face of the country. It presents throughout, from river to river, the most varied physical features; fine alternations of mountains, forests, and plains. The lofty Mbenaypey, crowned by primeval forests, and the Ytagua with its truncated cone, though but hil- locks compared with the majestic eminences of the Andean range, are imposing objects in the mountain system. Through whole districts the sierras are covered by forests of gigantic trees, and slope by rounded wooded hills to the broad sunlit plains, which GOVEKNMENT AND THE PEOPLE. were every where brilliant with verdure, and intersected by peren- nial streams. The hill-sides were enlivened by the habitations of a numerous population, and the plains were covered by herds and flocks, which, with the approach of night, could be seen seeking the protection of corrals that dotted the campos. We saw no sterile wastes. The whole land seemed to be enriched by the vegetable tribes of tropical and temperate zones. The air was laden at times with the rich odors of orange blossoms and aromatic shrubs ; and yet the climate there, as in every part of the basin of La Plata that I visited, is free from the humidity and excessive heat, which, in other sections of this continent, exhaust the powers of man, or increase those of nature beyond his controLJ All that fine country is occupied by a people simple, kind, and hospitable. Thefts are not unfrequent, but a higher degree of crime is ^rare. The administration of President Lopez is, so far as I could learn, unstained by bloodshed. Though the Paraguayans groaned for a quarter of a century under the sanguinary tyranny of Francia, they have been saved from the demoralizing civil contests that have almost depopulated other states of La Plata. But let not this beauty or fertility tempt foreigners to enter Par- aguay for permanent occupation without the protection of treat- ies. The government owns three fourths of the land, and has nu- merous estancias ; yet when beef is required for the army or public laborers, it not unfrequently draws on the stock of a private es- tate, allowing the owner half the value of each hide, for which he must receive, as payment, one third in paper* money, one third in cotton goods, and the remainder in silver. Store-houses are also established in every district. These are another source of public revenue ; but they interfere at the same time with individual rights. The commandantes of partidos are but the stewards or agents of the principal merchant, the sub-venders of government stock in cattle and goods. The period of the presidential election was approaching (the ith of March, 1854), but among the members of the new Congress I missed our hospitable friend Senor Yasconcellos. He is, I pre- sume, too independent in his views to please the party in power, and upon second thoughts was permitted to stay at home. I was anxious to be present at the sittings of the National Legislature, but to my inquiry, "Will strangers be admitted?" I received only a mysterious shrug of the shoulders, and a " No se, Senor" * Equivalent to specie. 16 242 MEETING OF CONGRESS. (I don't know, sir). I intended to ask the President, but it was intimated to me that the request would not be acceptable, as none of the citizens were allowed to enter. ["His Excellency presided in person, and read a well-written message, afterward published, which gave, or professed to give, a minute history of the country since the last Congress in 1849. He represented in strong lan- guage its prosperity, which, with consummate tact, he attributed not so much to the ability of the executive as to the wisdom of the honorable Kepresentatives. They had not met to legislate. His Excellency relieves them of that responsibility. So, dutifully giving their votes without a dissenting voice, after a sitting of three days they adjourned sine die. One member had moved a resolution to make the President Emperor, with the honor hereditary in his family. This he wisely declined. In grasping the shadow he might have lost the reality. He is de facto Emperor, and the succession is probably secured to his son. The struggles of the Revolution are perhaps not forgot- ten, and imperial or royal titles might alarm even the simple Paraguayans. I asked the President, on one occasion, if he could furnish me with a copy of their constitution, alleging, as a reason for the re- quest, my ignorance of the existence of any such state paper, and my desire to become acquainted with the fundamental law on which their government was based. "With some hesitation, he replied, " The constitution is not complete ; it is now under re- vision." I had before made attempts to procure a copy, but without success ; indeed, all my efforts to obtain information as to the state of the country were met by a timid hesitancy. I really believe that the habit of unquestioning submission is so fixed that few know themselves how they are governed. Still without political aspirations, as in the time of Francia, they humbly, and seemingly with confidence, confer upon the President the admin- istration of all political affairs, a power the present incumbent is as prompt in taking upon himself as he is unscrupulous in its ex- ercise. "Bandos" are issued as occasions call for them, having a retrospective as well as prospective bearing. The following table gives the exports from Asuncion during the year 1854 : EXPORTS FROM ASUNCION. 243 Yerba 85,676 arobas. 103,868 " 5,264 thousand. 30,313 varas. 38,957 pesadas. 15,566 hides. 3,205 arobas. 15,920 " 23,325 " 266,893 almudas. 29,588 arobas. 30,668 asumbres. 7 arobas. 35,600 canes. 12,534 frascas. 29,992 almudas. 54 arobas. 3,394 " 706 1 " 6,264 " 775 " 196 dozens. 3,724 j 200 fanegas ( ( 12 almudas). $282,489 148,164 12,568 49,050 156,287 66,650 9,833 2,719 10,596 11,288 19,086 1,279 20 53 3,168 597 17 984 179 1,164 96 472 235 500 63 Number of vessels that arrived in Asuncion during the year 1854 was 160, with about 8000 tons ; of which 2 were British, 31 Paraguayan, 116 Argen- tine, and 11 Oriental. The export duty is 10 per cent, on almost every article, excepting starch, which pays 6 per cent. Of the exports of 1854, 82,882 arobas of yerba, 2074 pesadas of raw hides, 52,670 varas of timber, and 311 arobas of horse-hair, paid no duty, being ex- ported or sold by the gov- ernment. The value of these articles is about $300,000, leaving only about $477,800 worth of produce exported by the trade, making a bal- ance against the market of $222,500, assuming $700,000 as the actual value of the imports. Timber Raw hides Tanned hides Tan bark Starch .... Oranges Sweetmeats Molasses Sucrar Sugar-cane Ruill Maize (corn) Rice Beans Meal (mandioca). Ground-nuts Algarrobilla Paddles Bamboos Lime Earthenware .... Total amount of exports in 1854... " 1853... " " " 1852... " " " 1851... $777,557 691,932 474,499 341,380 CHAPTER XIV. Expedition tinder Geronimo Metorras. Colonel Arrias. Murillo and Lapa. Colonel Ariadne Cornejo. Don Pablo Soria. Steamer Pilcomayo. Lieutenant Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay. Want of Game and Fish. Force of the Current. Tobas Indians. Nacurutu. Palms. Rio Saco. De loi Carui. Visit to the Toldo Paso da Lurbi. River ascended one hundred and twenty Miles. Channel. Descending a Cascade. A Hunt with Dr. Car- ter. Lost. Signals. The Howitzer replies. Safe Return. Descending the River. Mr. Hickman. Letter from .Mr. Dana. OUR next field of operation was the Vermejo River. Even up to the last quarter of the eighteenth century the spirit of enter- prise which distinguished the early Spanish settlers was not dis- sipated; and the navigation of the Yermejo supposed to offer a communication between the eastern and western borders of the viceregal governments of Peru and La Plata became a subject of absorbing interest to many of the most intelligent of the Span- ish colonists. Senor Don Geronimo Metorras, Governor of Tucuman, which then embraced a large portion of the territory now known as the 2M EAELY EXPLOKATIONS OF THE VEEMEJO. Argentine Confederation, was the last and most successful explor- er by land in that part of the Chaco through which the Yermejo flows. His object was to establish, if possible, a friendly under- standing with the numerous Indians living upon or frequenting its borders, from Salta to Corrientes, and thence, by the Parana, to open a communication between the former town and Buenos Ayres. In 1774 he began this exploration, escorted by one hundred and ninety-six Indians, under the command of Don Francisco Grabino Arrias, a colonel of the army. He followed the right bank of the river for two hundred and forty leagues ; received no annoyance from the savages, but was induced by a council of his escort to abandon the further prosecution of the enterprise when he was, according to his own estimate, within sixty leagues of Corrientes. This success inspired him with confidence in the practicability of forming new reductions, and opening a safe pas- sage through the Chaco from east to west. He died when his hopes were most buoyant. His successor, Colonel Arrias a man of great force of character, and fully imbued with that spirit of enterprise which had distinguished his predecessor continued the work, and the following year formed two " reductions" among the Tobas and Macobi tribes; one of these at the "Lake of Pearls," and the other at Cangaye, both in the vicinity of the river. In an incredibly short time several thousand Indians were assembled at those places, under the "banner of the cross and the tuition of the church." In 1778 these successes were followed up by two Franciscan friars, Murillo and Lapa, who, in a canoe, and accompanied by only four men, floated down the Yermejo from the junction of the Senta to the new reductions. This exploration was continued in 1781 by Colonel Arrias, who, with a large escort, in a number of canoes, descended throughout the remainder of the river to its junction with the Paraguay, and thence to Corrientes. Journals of these expeditions were kept, and transmitted to the Yiceroy of Buenos Ayres, who carefully buried them. It was in vain that Arrias urged the opening of this river communication through the Chaco. His entreaties were disregarded ; but so impressed was he with its importance, that before his death he enjoined upon his son to carry out the work in which he had so zealously labored. These efforts were followed by several others for civilizing, or EXPEDITIONS OF CORNEJO AND SOKIA. 245 rather subjugating the Indians , but no farther attempt was made to verify the navigability of the Vermejo until 1790, when Colonel Adriane Cornejo, a citizen of Salta, accompanied by thirty persons, descended in a boat from the junction of the Senta to its mouth, a distance, according to his own estimate, which is probably exag- gerated, of four hundred leagues. The account of this descent, accomplished in fifty-five days, during the months of July and August, is more authentic and detailed than that of any that pre- ceded or followed. The navigation was reported as practicable throughout, and the Indians as having exhibited no hostile spirit. No farther attempt was made under the colonial government to open this river. The reductions upon its borders were aban- doned, though, as may be well understood, the civilization of the savages and the addition of their territory to the viceregal gov- ernments were measures freighted with honor and profit to Spain. In 1826, and at the season before chosen by Cornejo July and August Don Pablo Soria, the agent of an association in Buenos Ayres, set out in a boat fifty-two feet long and of two feet draught. He descended the Vermejo in fifty-seven days, from Senta to its junction with the Paraguay, where he was entrapped by the sol- diers of the opposite guardia. His papers were taken from him, and he was sent a prisoner to Asuncion, where he was detained five years by Francia. His journal, which had been kept with great care, was never returned to him ; and the only record known of it is a narrative and map, drawn from memory, five years later, when the commander, having been liberated, returned to Buenos Ayres. He describes the descent as having been attended with no obstacles or difficulties except such as arose from the hostilities of the Indians. Such had been the expeditions down the Vermejo when we made the attempt to ascend it. The accounts given of them, though vague and unsatisfactory as to the peculiar characteristics of the river, agreed somewhat in representing the current as " muy manso" (very gentle). Nothing is said as to the means used to test its velocity, and it is easy to understand the origin and con- tinuance of this error. Those parties only floated down, and, dreading or actually pursued by hostile Indians, we can imagine their anxiety to move a little faster. The current was only too sluggish for their impatience. So soon as the necessary arrangements could be made, after the arrival of the Water "Witch from Montevideo, I went on board the 246 THE STEAMER PILCOMAYO. Pilcomayo, and on the 18th May, 1854, started for the Yermejo, accompanied by the following officers: Acting Lieutenant Gr. P. Welsh, Acting Master "W. H. Murdaugh, Passed Midshipman E. W. Henry, Assistant Surgeon Eobert Carter, Third Assistant En- gineer Stump, and a crew of eighteen men. The boat, built of the cedar of Paraguay, was sixty-five feet in length, fourteen feet beam, twenty -three inches draught, flat bot- tom, depth of hold three feet, deck laid in hatches, sides of deck- house of half-inch cedar boards to the height of five feet, and cov- ered with painted canvas. Upon this deck the officers and men STEAMER PILCOMAYO AND PARAGUAY GITARUIA. slept. A table, four feet by two and a half, on movable legs, served on one side as a drawing-board, while on the other we took our meals. The seats, which were boxes fourteen inches square, served as lockers for clothes. Two small high-pressure engines of six-inch cylinders, eighteen inches stroke, with two locomotive boilers, which proved worthless, and wheels of twelve feet diame- ter, constituted the propelling power. Such were our equipments. Judging from the performance of the little craft, which had been tried several times in the Paraguay off Asuncion, I supposed she could make five knots in slack water, and, anticipating a cur- rent u muy manso" we started upon the work in fine spirts. ' I instructed Lieutenant Powell to visit, in my absence, an in- teresting section of Paraguay, embracing a part of the "Yerbales," to observe the process of gathering the leaves and preparing the ASCENT OF THE VERMEJO. 247 yerba, and to note the cultivation and general resources of that quarter of the republic. He was also directed to determine the geographical positions of the principal points in his route ; and, in returning, to re-determine those in the interior, the positions of which, on account of the accident to the instruments during my journey, were unsatisfactory. Extracts from his report will be found in the Appendix. The Water Witch remained at Asuncion to undergo extensive repairs to her engine and wheels, notwithstanding those so recently put upon her at Montevideo. With four months' rations for twenty-four persons, ten tons of coal, and one and a half cords of wood, we entered the Yermejo, May 22d, 1854. Expecting to find the river and adjacent country teeming with animal life, I thought I had made unnecessary provision for food, but I was mistaken. What may be the resources in this respect of the upper and middle sections of the Vermejo I can not say, but up to the point of our ascent one hundred and twenty -two miles there was little game, and very few fish. At one place only the mouth of a small tributary stream, which I afterward named u Acacia River" we saw a great number offish. The scarcity of game is doubtless owing to the hordes of neigh- boring savages, who subsist by the chase. Their skill with the bow and arrow and with the lance is extraordinary, and a vast number of skins of various animals are annually sold by the more civilized of them at Corrientes. The mouth of the Yermejo is marked by no striking peculiari- ties. Its banks are low, and covered with a stunted scattering growth. After advancing three or four miles, we found, on either side, an older formation, and fine skirts of curupayna, curupay, algarroba, and espinilla; while beyond, inland, was the pampa, with its usual characteristics in this latitude palms and grass. For a few miles the river maintains a width of from one to three hundred yards, with a depth of from twelve to eighteen feet. Tortuous, turbid, confined within narrow limits, we soon discover- ed that the current, so far from being "muy manso" was even then, at its near approach to low water and from the appearance of the banks it had little more to fall not less than three knots ; it would doubtless reach at some places from four to five. At times we found it impossible to stem the current, or avoid being carried down with it, when working with full steam, and a pressure of 248 DIFFICULTIES AND DELAYS. one hundred and twenty pounds. To keep out of it was an ob- ject, and when this was impossible we only advanced by the aid of a line made fast to some tree ahead. In addition to the usual means for ascertaining its velocity, it was tested on two occasions by selecting suitable ground, meas- uring a base line of four hundred feet, and noting the time in which a chip cast upon the waters would pass from one end of the base to the other. They agreed within a very small fraction, making the current three sea-miles, or from three to four statute miles an hour; and, judging from the width, uniform -depth, and appearance of the river at those two points, I believe the current was there weaker than in many other places. f Perhaps I have been more minute in dwelling upon this than its importance at first glance would seem to authorize ; but should the Yermejo become, as I believe it very soon will, a channel of communication with the West, upon a proper understanding of its currents will depend the success of the first enterprises for its navigation. It would weary the reader to follow us step by step through the thirty-two days of perplexing, toilsome duty in our fruitless attempt to ascend this river in a boat with the power of the Pil- comayo. I will only give some extracts from my journal for the benefit of those who may feel a particular interest in the subject. Each morning we resumed our labors, only to find with the set- ting sun that we had made little or no progress. " May 27th. Under way at 6 A.M. Soon came to anchor to get up steam; unable with eighty pounds to stem the current. At 9 had made two miles ; saw a few ' patos reales.' Width of river from one to three hundred yards. On either side, grass and mag- nificent lofty palms. This palm timber is in demand at Corrien- tes, and it could easily be carried down on rafts. Made several ineffectual efforts to round a bend, with eighty pounds of steam. Our little boat went, crab-like, against the banks by the force of the current, and had five arms of the starboard wheel broken ; a vexatious accident, but one against which the utmost precaution will not guard us in such navigation as this. Cut from an algar- roba on the right bank arms for the broken wheel. This wood, which is as easily cut, split, and worked as Southern pine, is very durable, and unequaled, even in its green state, as fuel for steam- ers. In five hours the arms were replaced, and we were again under way. SLOW PROGRESS. 249 "Anchored at sunset, and determined our position by stars north, and south, east and west. Our men have thus far failed to catch fish with the seine or line. Shot five pavos. del monte mountain turkeys a delicious bird. Nothing could be more ac- ceptable, as our breakfast for some days has been hominy and coffee, and our dinner pork and beans, the last a diet of which even sailors tire when forced to live upon it for many days con- secutively. " 2Mi. Creeping along, we keep as much as possible out of the current. Banks rise abruptly twenty-five feet, presenting strata of argillaceous earth, estuary mud, and reddish clay, with a sur- face soil from one to two feet in depth. Whenever they rise to the same height, the formation is very uniform. Several mounted Indians have presented themselves on the right bank. They manifest a friendly disposition, and say they belong to the Tobas tribe. They are fine-looking men, without paint or covering ex- cept a piece of cloth around the loins, and are armed with bows, arrows, and lances. They subsist by the chase and fishing, and hold some communication with Corrientes, where they dispose of their skins, principally those of the jaguar, deer, and nutria. "We gave them tobacco, fish-hooks, and a few trinkets, with which they were pleased. But, much to our astonishment, the steamer seem- ed to awaken among them neither fear nor curiosity. " 30th. Made four and a half miles this day, and have been compelled to stop four times to get up sufficient steam to stem the current. "We started with one hundred and twenty pounds, and as soon as it worked down to eighty we were obliged to anchor. Weather cloudy, with rain at intervals. " 31st. Eeached Nacurutu, a small, thickly- wooded island, rising thirty feet above the water. A good channel on either side, the eastern being the deeper. In nine days our efforts to advance have been unflagging, and yet we have made but thirty-five miles. Saw to-day a jaguar on the banks, but he escaped before we were within shooting distance ; also a few motus and pavos del monte. We have made two and a half miles ; this is encourag- ing. I am disappointed in the scarcity of flora, animals, and birds. Anchored for the night near the island in a heavy rain, accom- panied with thunder and lightning." During this ascent of the Yermejo it was the habit of the offi- cers at our stoppages to "get up steam" to go on shore in search of specimens. From the aspect of the country one might suppose 250 PALM FORESTS. it a tolerable field ; but we met with poor success. We saw only a limited number of the small partridge, moving always in pairs the habit also of the larger species, of which there were very few. It is probable that many are annually destroyed by the habit the Indians have of firing the grass, a few months after which the pampas present the appearance of fine wheat-fields in May. " June 1. Weather misty. Underway at 6 A.M. ; at 10 A.M. had stopped three times to get up steam. Channel contracted somewhat by imbedded drift-wood. While at anchor I went ashore, and, passing through the woods that skirted the banks, found myself on the borders of the pampa, with a boundless ex- tension of palms those ' kings among grasses' before me." It was a vast temple to the Living God, that palm forest, with its long aisles and noble colonnades; its symmetrical columnar trunks rising to the height of more than seventy feet, with their feathery -foliaged capitals. The plain from which they sprung was unbroken by the smallest inequality except the conical structures of the ant, rising some three or four feet in every di- rection above the grass. Though this fair region has a varied zoology, and is the domain of fierce unsubjugated nomads, scarce the buzz of an insect was heard; not a form of animated life crossed my path. Yet the whole aspect of nature was indescrib- ably cheerful. There were pleasant illusions, too, of picturesque villages ; for, as we turned from the palms and followed the course of the river, marked by its wooded belt, in the varying height of branching trees we descried houses, pointed roofs, and miradores, so sharply defined that it was impossible to believe them unreal. What a crowning glory the palm forests offer to the vegetable system of this basin of La Plata ! The varieties seen by us in the last few months would furnish supplies of nourishing farinaceous food, drink, medicine, arms, lodging, and clothing, to a vast population. We have seen them, not in patches, or groves, or park-like groupings, but in vast forests, extending many miles upon the rivers, and inland far beyond the reach of the eye. " In this Yermejo pampa, though the palms are extraordinary in size and beauty, the variety in the species is appparently limited; but, owing to varied professional duties, my investiga- tions into all subjects pertaining to natural history are at best superficial ; and so teeming is the wealth of unexplored nature in La Plata that each department would furnish a study for . years, or for a long life. PATIENCE AND TO-MORROW. 253 " The position of the Eio Saco, as given on Descalzi's map, near the Island Nacarutu, is erroneous. There is no trace what- ever of a river at that place. Sixteen miles above there is the dry bed of a very small stream, which, during the seasons of rain, may be a river, or have the appearance of one, for the waters of the Vermejo would back into it. " June 4:th. Had a talk with a group of Indians men, women, and children. In stature and form the women are inferior to the men, and are much disfigured by tattooing, which is their prepara- tion for marriage. Some of the men sported old cloth jackets, picked up probably in their trade with Corrientes, but the women and children were entirely naked except a piece of cloth about the middle. They had a few sheep, which they drive from place to place as they move their toldos. " 10 A.M. Anchored, with forty-five pounds of steam, unable to stem the current ; though not exposed to its strength, we had worked down from one hundred and twenty pounds. Again un- der way at 11 5 A.M., with one hundred and twenty pounds of steam. Worked down to forty -five; throttle closed as much as possible. At 1 50, under way ; in twenty minutes at anchor for want of steam. How can headway be made at this rate ? Re- mained at anchor one hour and a half; moved twenty minutes, making each time from two to four hundred yards, and now and then dashing into the bank, when off would fly from two to four arms of the wheels. Hoping for better times, we will not give it up yet. ' Paciencia y manana?* " June 6th. Stopped to communicate with a number of Tobas Indians, who appeared on the banks, mounted on fine horses." The cacique " de Soi Carui" seemed to be regarded with profound respect by the whole party. He was dressed in a blue jacket, scarlet trowsers, and red conical cloth cap, measuring about eighteen inches in height, and having on its front a brass plate, with the motto of Rosas, " Murien los salvages Unitarios /" (Death to the savage Unitarians !) I sent a boat for him, and with a few attendants he came on board. " The Tobas live in toldos, which they move at pleasure ; for they possess neither cattle nor sheep, and subsist by the chase and fishing. They mentioned a tribe of Indians some distance west, rarely seen by the white man, who have the hair and color of the negro."f * " Patience and to-morrow !" the Spanish cure for all ills of disappointment, t At Asuncion I was informed that there existed in the northeastern part of Paraguay a tribe of caudated savages. 254 INDIANS. While wooding, I pulled ahead a short distance in the boat. The river is very tortuous, and seems to have undergone great changes. At one place it had formerly coursed in a semicircle, cutting into the left bank, while a point of land from the opposite side projected a considerable distance into this semicircular bend, at right angles to the course of the stream above. The action of the current had severed this neck from the main land, and, leaving the curve for the more direct course, had formed shoals at each end, which, with accumulated deposits, had in time joined the island to the opposite main land, and made one unbroken bank, leaving in the abandoned bed of the river a crescent-shaped lake of clear water.* I landed near two Indians, who were fishing. They manifest- ed no alarm, and gave me some nutria skins, which they called chiquisi. I offered them in return a few cigars, the only thing I had with me. The formation of the banks and the face of the country are unvarying, so far. From time to time bodies of mounted Indians, or small groups engaged in fishing, are seen. The zoology of this'pampa differs very little from that of the shores of the Paraguay. We have seen the jaguar, capibara, deer, nutria, and in a few instances the tracks of the tapir. The noise of our high-pressure engine may have driven some animals into the interior, but I think the scarcity may be ascribed to the skill and activity of the Indian hunters, and the traffic in skins carried on with Corrientes. The algarroba and espinilla are abundant upon the banks, but the flora principally creepers- offers no new species. "13th. Another party of mounted Indians were seen on the right bank. They resemble physically those before seen, and are indeed of the same tribe. Eeceived an invitation to visit their toldo, distant some miles from the river. Three officers and five men accompanied me, and after a tramp through the long grass we reached their habitations, a collection of hide and grass sheds, closed only upon the south side. In this toldo were five men, as many women, and ten children. The women were prepar- ing the seed of the caraguatay, an important item of food with them. It resembles parched corn, and is not a bad substitute when roasted. They gave us fruit of the algarroba and guayca- * Lyell's description of the curves of the Mississippi "Principles of Geology," p. 212 could not illustrate more truly the above and similar changes in the Ver- mejo had it been designed for them. INDIAN MANUFACTURES. 255 rurembayu, as it is called in Guarami, but these savages call it loquerai. They reduce the first to a fibrous powder, and find it so nutritious that it will alone sustain them on a march of many days. Mixed with the meal of parched corn it makes an excel- lent article of food, which is much used in the province of Santia- go. These Indians had a few sheep and chickens ; but they pre- fer horse-flesh to beef, and mules to either. A quantity of the former, cut in long thin slips, was hung up to dry. We gave them hatchets, knives, and a few yards of cotton cloth, in ex- change for two sheep and some chickens. The former, in size and quality, were fully equal to any I had seen in Buenos Ayres or Entre Kios. " All the women wore about the middle a piece of woolen cloth, blue, white, and red. The yarn is spun with the distaff, and very well done. It is woven by fastening the warp at each end to a stick, and confining it horizontally by four others driven into the ground. The woof is passed between the threads by a shuttle of the rudest contrivance, and driven into its place by the blows of a flat board. Such is their primitive mode of making what appear- ed a coarse but durable article. The colors were particularly bright. " One mile above this the banks rise twenty-five feet, showing a deep stratum of ferruginous clay, and a sandy loam. " A nest, built eight feet below the surface, and exposed by the caving in of the bank, gave us a curious evidence of the instinct and intelligence of the bee. A little beyond this I saw a vein of small fresh-water fossil shells, Planorbis, in a stratum of sandy mould, and on the opposite bank, imbedded horizontally,, and projecting fifteen feet, was the trunk of a large tree twenty inches in diameter, hollow, and much worn on the outer side, leaving a shell five inches thick. It lay about twenty feet from the sur- face, and seventeen above the level of the river, in a stratum of sandy clay. It was so hard that for some time it resisted the axe. Again saw three other imbedded trees; the first lying horizon- tally in dark argillaceous earth, five feet from the surface ; the second standing vertically; and the third twenty feet under ground, lying horizontally, the roots projecting from the banks. "19th. Came to a pass, a narrow rocky reef, tosca, extending across the river, having on it a depth of three feet, with deep wa- ter immediately above and below. "This, I presume, is the 'Paso da Lurbi' of Descalzi's map, THF 256 INDIAN FISHERY. for it approaches more nearly to his description of it than any thing I have seen, although it does not correspond in position, which is, according to our determination, in latitude 26 12' south, longitude 59 38' west; variation 10 52' east. Many physical changes have doubtless taken place since Soria's descent of the Yermejo in 1826. " 23d. While wooding the vessel I pulled ahead and saw two Indians fishing ; they were alarmed, and moved off when they saw us ; but I reassured them by calling out ' Amigo /' They stopped, and as we approached one of them said piteously, ' Mi amigo, mi maloS* I administered a few cigars, which had an instantaneous and salutary effect upon the frame and nerves of the poor savage, who, in return, insisted upon my acceptance of two large cat-fish. In their trade with Corrientes some have picked up a few words of Spanish,- and ' amigo 1 would probably be found, on all occa- sions, a safe pass-word with them. " They exhibit both skill and ingenuity in their modes of fish- ing. A wattling breakwater is extended from the shore for about six feet, at a right angle to the current, forming a small space of slack water below it. Here the fish resort to avoid the current, and are caught by the well-baited hooks of the Indians. Again, they shoot them with the bow and arrow, and generally with un- erring aim. "May 2M. Latitude 26 10' 09" south, longitude 59 39' 08" west. We have ascended the river by its course one hundred and twenty-two geographical miles; the aggregate distance, by the various points of observation, of which there were nine, being eighty -three, and in a right line seventy-six. Having persevered for thirty -two days, at an average of less than four miles per day, and not made more than one tenth of the distance I anticipated in this time, I have determined to return, make some changes in the boat, and additions to the steam space of the boilers ; their defects being the cause of all this toil and disappointment. The failure of the attempt, and the experience gained, only give me confidence in the practicability of ascending this river with a steamer of suitable construction and ordinary power. " Though there may be sections of the Yermejo where the wa- ters on either side expand into lagoons, wherever confined by high banks, the current is rapid, and those expecting to navigate this river must not be deceived by the i muy manso 1 of Spanish * I am a friend, I am sick ! THE VERMEJO. *257 Americans, an expression they use lightly on all occasions. Our dear-bought experience in thirty days' work is sufficient proof of the difficulties of the navigation. Nor is it probable that they decrease in advancing; for it can flow through no country pre- senting a more unbroken level than this. " Our examination shows a current from 3 to 3f sea miles the hour, or from 3J to 4|- statute miles, and at some points an in- crease upon this : a force to meet which the defective machinery of our little boat is not equal. "We have advanced some distance above the * passes' (the l Paso de Lurbi' and ' Salta de Iso') mentioned by Soria, as offering the principal and only obstacles to the navigation at low water. The river has ceased falling, and I can discover no trace of the latter point, and but a faint correspondence with his description of the Paso de Lurbi, which may be accounted for by the great physical changes constantly going on." The least depth in the channel was three feet; and the esti- mated rise, judging from unmistakable marks on banks and trees, was ten. The season of least water is July and August, which continues until the rains of November in the region of its source and those of its tributaries. I have before mentioned that it was impossible to obtain any data relative to the Vermejo, therefore its periodical changes beyond what I actually observed are un- known to me ; and to repeat what has been given at various times as positive and reliable information would mislead others as it did me. The physical changes to which I have alluded, as occurring within a few years in the Parana, will explain those of the Ver- mejo in a quarter of a century. The simple fact of its having wa- ter at all seasons for vessels of two and a half feet draught, must set at rest any anxiety about its rise and fall, inasmuch as few would care to navigate it with a greater draught were its depth twenty feet throughout. The advantage gained at high water would be a slight increased width of the channel, which would, however, be counteracted by the increased velocity of current ; at other seasons obstructions, such as trees fallen or imbedded in the bottom, would be exposed to view. We made our mark at the point of return by felling a noble algarroba, measuring three feet through the stump, from which the little Pilcomayo was loaded with fuel to her utmost capacity, leaving a good supply for the next party of explorers, and hoping it would be our own. 17 258 DESCENT OF THE VERMEJO. On the 25th we commenced the descent, and four miles below anchored to examine a small tributary stream from the left, to which I have before alluded. Accompanied by some of the offi- cers, I followed the bank on foot, while Lieutenant Henry, with two men in the dingie, entered its mouth. The current was there strong, and a hundred yards beyond, a fall of about three feet pre- sented itself, with rapids extending a hundred yards a foot for every ten. One of the boys in the boat, hearing the noise, turned to Mr. Henry, and said laughingly, " That looks, sir, as if it would stop us." " It will take more than that to stop us," replied the officer, and over the stern he sprang, in mud and water to the waist. The men followed his example, and, by great exertion, they drew the boat up the little cascade and through the rapids into the comparatively still water beyond. Mr. Henry again took the tiller, the boys the oars, and they continued the ascent for a mile or two. The sluggish current above the rapids, and the general appearance of this stream induced the belief that it had its source in some neighboring lagoon; that it was, in fact, the river de- scribed by Cornejo as flowing from a lake five miles from the Yer- mejo. The water was limpid and sweet. We determined to return in the boat, thinking the pleasurable sensation of gliding down the cascade would be worth a capsize. On both banks . were large acacia trees in full blossom, their branches in many places meeting and forming a bower over the water. The whole atmosphere was filled with their delicious perfume. It was, in truth, a scene of rich beauty. Gliding be- yond this lovely avenue, with Mr. Henry, oar in hand, in the stern, and one of the boys in the bow, we dashed into the rapids. The little craft went like a shot, " straight on end," and in an in- stant we were pitching at an angle of forty -five degrees down the cascade. The boat seemed to be turning "end for end." Her bows went under, but' in another moment she glided gracefully into the current beyond, and we quickly passed into the Termejo, through numberless fish, among which were the golden dorado, leaping and dashing about as if defying the skill of our men, who were in vain trying to bait a mess. They were dainty, sensible dorados, wisely preferring the delicate provision brought down from Acacia Eiver, as I shall call this stream, to the " salt grub" of the Pilcomayo. After some hours of angling, a few cat-fish alone rewarded our patience by taking to the pork baits. The next day we made little progress. A short time after get- LOST ON THE PAMPA. 259 ting under way, the boat became unmanageable and was carried by the force of the current against a snag, from which she was with difficulty extricated. After getting off, it was too late to fire up, and I determined to pass the hour before sunset on shore with my gun. Dr. Carter and myself started off, marking the point of our de- parture from the bank opposite the boat by what we considered easily recognizable objects ; but in the sameness of the woods skirting the river, not found again so readily as one might sup- pose. After walking some distance, occasionally turning to mark the starting-point a clump of lofty trees our attention was at- tracted by a vast number of birds very like plover, and apparent- ly confining their movements to a low marshy piece of ground some distance before us. We forgot starting-point and courses in the pleasurable excitement offered by this shooting-ground. It was a wild-goose chase. The birds, like the fish of Acacia Eiver, were too wary for us. At last we. looked back for the clump of trees. It was undistinguishable, and there was not the smallest object to indicate our position or that of the boat. By our own estimate we were one or two miles from the river, with grass two feet high to tramp through, the shades of night upon us, and the comforting thought of savages and wild beasts for neighbors. When we reached the Yermejo it was night, and no Pilcomayo was in sight. We hailed. The sound ran along the river, and Echo answered from the opposite bank. A second time we shouted, with the same response. The doctor and myself differed in opinion as to the position of the boat. Now following the bank for about half a mile, pitching occasionally over ant-hills three or four feet in height, with which the pampa was covered, we arrived at what the doctor had considered the point of our depart- ure, but no Pilcomayo was there. We shouted and fired our guns. Again that provoking Echo responded. Jaguars and Indians were the only enemies we feared, but they were formidable ones, and might be lurking in the luxuriant grass ; and it was ques- tionable whether the report of our guns would invite or deter the approach of these inhabitants of the Chaco. I must confess that the prospect of being, within the next hour, the supper of one or prisoner of the other was by no means a comforting reflection. The doctor proposed that we should spend the night among the branches of the algarroba ; but not caring to be treed like a coon, 260 RETURN TO ASUNCION. I preferred a running fightj and kept to the banks. We retraced our steps, passed " my point," meeting with no incident more alarming or noteworthy than an occasional tumble over the ant- hills. Again we fired. Hark! the one howitzer of the little steamer replied, fainter and more distant than we could have im- agined possible, but it was cheering. The doctor thought his eyesight better than mine, and proposed to lead, while I was to keep him in line by a star I had taken as the direction of the re- port. The pilot proved an indifferent one, for he suddenly disap- peared, and a pair of heels above the sea of grass showed that he had pitched over an ant-hill. I again became the guide, and an- other gun from the boat assured me that we were in the right di- rection. We came to a bend in the river. The bank was high, and densely covered with lofty trees. Turning it, we saw the light of the Pilcomayo, and hailed her. Officers and crew were anxious for our safety, and a detach- ment was about starting off in search. They had burned blue lights arid fired small-arms repeatedly ; but the height of the banks and the skirting of wood had hidden the first and deadened the sound. We had a hearty laugh over our adventures, and joked the doctor unmercifully for his "tree proposition." He had been a great coon hunter down in Old Virginia, had a vivid recollection of the difficulties of the siege, and thought that from such a leafy fort as an algarroba a garrison of two men might bid defiance to the jaguar and Indian of the Chaco. At an early hour the next morning we were moving down stream, and in the afternoon of the following day again entered the Paraguay. In twenty and a half working hours we had de- scended the distance it had taken thirty-two days to ascend, and, stopping only at three points to wood, we arrived on the 5th of July at Asuncion. I had not been unmindful of the 4th. One bottle of cheer had been kept for the occasion. It was passed round, and "Jack," with patriotic promptitude, responded to the call of " All hands splice the main brace." We made the run from the mouth of the Vermejo to Asuncion in ninety-one running hours against a current, ascertained to be from two to two and a half sea miles an hour. In both rivers we had kept out of the currents as much as possible, but working by night the boat was doubtless contending with that of the Para- guay the greater part of the time. This was conclusive evidence ME. HICKMAN'S EXPEDITION. 261 that the Pilcomayo, bad as she was, had made from four to four and a half sea miles an hour ; and yet in the Vermejo we could make no headway with the greatest pressure of steam. I may then justly conclude that those who navigate it must encoun- ter a current of four sea miles an hour in those parts confined be- tween banks, and this, too, at low water. About the time of our ascent of that river, some American and English merchants of Buenos Ayres entered into a commercial enterprise. They intrusted the execution of some preliminary ar- rangements to Mr. Hickman, a citizen of the United States, par- ticularly enthusiastic and energetic in all transactions relating to trade. Their object was to open intercourse with the northwestern provinces of the Argentine States and Bolivia by the navigation of the Vermejo. Accompanied by four men Mr. Hickman set out by land, hoping to meet us at the town of Oran, and expecting from my party facilities and aids which would certainly have been rendered. His purpose was to inform himself of the resources of the coun- try accessible by this river ; to construct a small boat, load it with samples of such articles as might enter into immediate trade, float down the river to Corrientes, and thence descend to Buenos Ayres. He reached Oran, built his boat eighty feet in length, sixteen feet beam, and five feet depth ; loaded her with hides, wool, chinchilla skins, specimens of copper and lead ores, and left Oran on the 12th of March, 1855. The current dashed the boat against the bank near the point called Lima Muerta, about twenty -five leagues be- low, where he was detained until the 4th of April to repair damages. He died on the 6th of May, and was buried near the old " reduc- tion" of San Bernard. The boat arrived safely at Corrientes on the 2-ith of the same month. According to a journal kept on board, she was under way two hundred and fifty hours, and float- ed a distance of three hundred and fifty leagues. This would make the current four miles an hour. The most intelligent men of this party were of the opinion that steamers of three feet draught could ascend within twenty miles of Oran at any season of the year. Having to cut lumber from the woods, they were ten months engaged in the construction of this boat and in prepara- tions for leaving Oran. By Mr. Hickman's death the projectors of the enterprise proba- bly lost much valuable information that would have hastened the development of trade in that direction. But the time is only post- 262 MR. DANA'S DISPATCH. poned when steamers will enter Corrientes, Kosario, and Buenos Ayres, freighted with the products of the North and West, a ton for every ounce that now finds its way into those markets for for- eign shipment. To effect this, however, one thing is essential : the free and uninterrupted navigation of the river ; that is, free- dom from obstacles and annoyances arising from the territorial differences of neighboring nations. As to the Indians, they may become valuable aids in opening this new avenue of trade. To show the resources of the country accessible by the Yerme- jo, and the immediate trade it offers, I quote from an interesting dispatch of Mr. J. "W. Dana, our minister to Bolivia, addressed to the State Department. " The whole region of country in the vicinity of the Vermejo, both in Bo- livia and the Argentine States, including the cities above named (Oran, Ju- juy, and Salta), abounds in horses, cattle, and sheep, and produces cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, rice, cocoa ; and at points a little more distant the al- paca is found in great numbers. The Rio Grande, a branch of the Verme- jo, which enters it a little below Oran, is navigable to a point forty leagues distant from each of the cities Jujuy and Salta ' 6 Estimates by the leading merchants in various parts of the country, which I have heretofore obtained, compared, and corrected, one by another, indicate the sum of $5,000,000 as an approximation to the amount of im- ports. These may be reclassed as follows : Iron and steel, all that is used in the country for mining and other purposes ; large quantities of brandy, wine, and ale ; all the table-service, cutlery, etc. ; nearly all the good fur- niture, pianos, for which there is a very great demand ; carpetings and pa- per-hangings ; jewelry, watches, etc. ; a large quantity of our coarse brown and blue cotton for outer clothing in warm climates ; a large quantity of thick heavy baize, from England, which is universally used for the Indians and lower classes in the high cold regions ; silks, broad-cloths, and all the various materials for male and female dress used in Europe and the United States. Hats, boots, and shoes are imported to some extent, but they are manufactured here, though badly, and at very high prices. In fact, all the necessaries and luxuries of a civilized society are brought from abroad, ex- cept the productions of the soil " The exports of the country, a series of years considered, must of course be regarded as at least equal to the imports. These consist of copper, tin, silver coined, gold coined, cascarilla and Peruvian bark ; to which may be added a small quantity of wool. Copper mines are abundant throughout Bolivia, including the region that would conveniently centre at Sucre ; but, on account of the great cost of transportation, none are worked except those nearest the coast. They are so productive, however, that it is a very prof- FARTHER EXPLORATIONS. 263 itable business when tho transportation does not exceed seventy-five leagues. The same cause, distance and transportation, operates upon the mines of tin. When tin is high, they are worked to a considerable extent ; when it is low, the works are in a great measure suspended. Those which are now worked are chiefly situated in the vicinity of Oran, between that and Sucre. The most productive silver mines are also in the region of Sucre, or properly of Potosi. One establishment near there produced $360,000 in the year 1856. But the cost of machinery, brought from abroad over the Andes on mules, is so immense that most of the mines are worked in the most primitive manner ; and, consequently, only those which are very rich afford a remunerative business. As an illustration I will state that a company that has recently introduced European machinery is now working over a second time the substance from which the silver had been previously extracted, and doing so at great profit. If facilities were afforded for the introduction of improved machinery, I have no doubt that it would immensely increase the production." CHAPTEE XY. Visit to the President. Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo. Victoria Regia or Mais del Agua. Orange Groves. The Plow. Posta Contaro. San Cosmi. Ytati. Hacienda Yrisbugua. Race with an Ostrich. Breaking a Horse. Troubles at Asuncion. Visit to the President. Consultation with Mr. Hopkins. Return to the Government-house. Last Interview with his Excellency. The Permit. Correspondence with Mr. Falcon. Council at Head-quarters. Americans on board, descending the River. The Navy heaves in Sight. Passing the Admir- al. The President's Indignation and the Seminario. The Treaty. Mr. Fal- con's extraordinary Letter. False Charges in the President's Message. The French Colony. The Brazilian Squadron. Outrage committed upon the Water Witch. What our Policy with South American States should be. I NOW remained at Asuncion merely to make all necessary ar- rangements for the alterations of the Pilcomayo, and to bring up a fair copy of parts of the work of the expedition, to be sent to the Navy Department. The latter duty was assigned to Lieuten- ants Murdaugh and Henry, and the former to Engineers Stump and Taylor, who furnished a plan for the proposed changes. Lieutenant Welsh had been suffering from a severe attack of neuralgia, aggravated by exposure in the Yermejo ; and his gen- eral health was so much impaired that I felt reluctantly obliged to dispense with his services, and gave him orders to return home. I then determined to proceed to Corrientes, with the view of examining the northern and western parts of the province, and 264 VISIT TO THE PRESIDENT. to obtain the aid of a machinist for some repairs needed by the "Water "Witch. I was going to a state for which the President of Paraguay had no friendly feelings ; but in my visit of leave the manner of his Excellency was not only civil, but actually approached to cordial- ity. He desired me to call upon the government, without reserve, for any aid needed in the reconstruction of the small steamer, and to remember that my requests would always meet with a favor- able reception. So entirely did he relax from his usual reserve on this occasion, that he accompanied me to the door, and taking my hand, expressed himself kindly for my success and speedy return. Arriving at Corrientes, I called on Governor Pujol, who met frankly my request to visit :the interior of the province, and said he would have orders issued from the postal department to afford every assistance. In the Argentine States, as in Paraguay, postas (post-houses) are established at distances of one, two, or three leagues throughout the country, and a sufficient number of extra horses are kept at them to meet any emergency that may occur. The traveler will always find his movements expedited by adding a few pennies to the usual charge per league ; for the master of the post has generally some good animals, his private property, while those of the government are often so much broken down that I was compelled, at times, to turn my horse upon the road, and procure another from the nearest house. Wishing to see the country adjacent to the river during the rainy season, and with the hope of adding something new to our collections, I determined to make a little boat-cruise up the Kia- chuelo, a small stream that rises in the interior and empties into the Parana nine miles below Corrientes. I was fortunate in obtain- ing some rare birds, and in seeing what alone would have repaid for a longer journey the "queen of the nymphseacese" upon its native waters. Extensive shallow lagoons, pure and limpid, were gemmed with islands of the " Victoria Eegia," or " mais del agua" (corn of the water), as it is called in the country ; for it is not only the queen of the floral tribes, but ministers to the necessities of man. Its seeds, which are about the size of large buck-shot, consist of a thin shell inclosing a white mealy substance. They are gathered by the Corrientinos and pounded into meal, from which they make excellent and nutritious bread. I procured a quantity, and sent them carefully sealed to the Navy Department. THE VICTOEIA REGIA. 265 I did not perhaps see the " regia" in all its glory, for the season of full flower, May and June, had passed ; but it was still budding and blooming in sufficient perfection to delight the eye. A plant, with some of its native soil and water, was placed in a cask, but with all my care it died. What infinite study is found in its leaves those great pages of Nature's book! I never wearied in examining their mechanism. Here, spreading over the lagoons, they looked as if they would bear the weight of men, and were covered at all times after dawn with myriads of water-fowl, glean- ing the " corn," unless anticipated by the natives. The descrip- tion given of this plant by Mr. Schomburgk, its discoverer, while exploring the river Berbice in 1837, renders unnecessary any de- scription from me of the " mais del agua" of the Kiachuelo of Cor- rientes. The regia of the former is of superior size to that of the latter place.* I frequently left the boat and walked over the neighboring country. The soil is a rich dark loam, covered with fine grass. The sod had in many places perhaps never been turned, but where attempts at cultivation had been made, the product of corn and tobacco was excellent. The orange-groves were generally neglected. I must except, however, a superb orchard of six thousand trees, one half of which, too young for bearing, were growing vigorously, while three thousand were bending under the weight of their golden fruit, and yielded an income, I was told, of $2500 per annum. These oranges are inferior to those of Paraguay. Indeed, those grown on the Parana, east of the capital, are not so fine as the fruit of the opposite shores. * Schomburgk says : " The leaf, on its surface, is of a bright green, in form orbiculate, with this exception, opposite its axis, where it is slightly bent in : its diameter measured from five to six feet : around the margin extended a rim about three to five inches high: on the inside light green, like the surface of the leaf; on the outside, like the leaf's lower part, of a bright crimson. 1 The stem of the flower is an inch thick near the calyx, and is studded with sharp elastic prickles about three quarters of an inch in length The diameter of the calyx is twelve or thirteen inches : on it rests the magnificent flower, which, when fully developed, covers completely the calyx with its hundred petals. When it first opens, it is white, with pink in the middle, which spreads over the whole flower the more it advances in age, and it is generally found the next day of a pink color ; as if to enhance its beauty, it is sweet-scented ; and, like others of its tribe, it pos- sesses a fleshy disk, and petals and stamens pass gradually into each other, and many petaloid leaves may be observed which have vestiges of an anther." 1 The color of those I saw was very much the same on both sides, a light green ; and the size four feet in diameter. 266 A DRENCH AGRICULTURIST. Civil wars have so desolated this part of the province and so diminished the cattle that now the orange-groves form the princi- pal source of income to landed proprietors. They require little attention, and a ready sale is afforded by the fruit- vessels that ply up and down the river. As the best estancias are generally owned by wealthy individuals residing at the capital, their only buildings are the rude dwellings of the capitazes or herdsmen. At these or in some abandoned hut we generally slept, spending the days in seeking ornithological or botanical specimens, and taking our meals wherever chance found us. In our wanderings we came to the land of an industrious French immigrant, who, with a large family, had established himself on the Parana. He was breaking up his ground with a modern plow after the most approved system ; and, from the appearance of the. rich, dark soil, his labors were probably well remunerated by the return crops. From this farm we passed to that of a na- tive, who was standing lazily looking on, while a boy with a fine yoke of oxen and a wooden plow, probably such as was used in the days of the Conquest, was scratching the surface of a piece of ground about fifty yards square. "Did you see my neighbor plowing?" asked the Corrientino. "Yes." He broke into a long, loud laugh. " What a plow ! Ha ! ha ! na ! that fool of a Frenchman ! He's crazy, sir ! Why, sir, he is opening the ground as wide as the streets of the capital !" The Frenchman's crops will, I presume, prove an unanswerable argument upon the merits of the two plows, and turn the laugh against his neighbor. The Eiachuelo did not extend far into the interior ; but in fol- lowing its course I was enabled to see a part of the province south of the capital, much better adapted to agriculture than that bor- dering the Parana, east of it. Population is alone wanting here, as in all parts of the Confederation. What homes these expanded plains and the delicious climate offer to immigrants! What a percentage on labor and capital might be drawn from these fertile wastes ! We returned to Corrientes ; and with our saddle-bags (alforjas) packed with tea, sugar, bread, and a little cana, recommended as "cooling in summer and warming in winter," were soon equip- ped for a longer journey in the interior. Upon a fine September morning, the doctor and myself, mount- SAN COSML YTATI. 267 ing our rather sorry horses, started eastward, seeking science and adventure. Our first stopping - place was Posta Contaro, about twenty miles from the capital, where we were kindly welcomed, refreshed with supper of "asado" and mandioca, and, after cigars, made quite members of the family by having our hammocks slung up in the same room with the master of the post, his wife, three other women, and five children ; ' one of these an infant, who entertained us during the night with solos and snatches of song that indicated good lungs. These poor people did their best to accommodate us, for this little adobe house had but one room, with a couple of benches, two chairs, and a rickety table for its furniture. Surrounding it was an inclosure with a few rows of corn, mandioca, and tobacco. The following day we reached San Cosmi, and, by the activity of the Juiz de Paz, were assigned an empty room, which was transformed into a cheery, comfortable apartment by the thought- ful kindness of a lady, Senora Casales, to whom we had letters of introduction. Two cots, tables, and chairs soon made their ap- pearance, followed by what we could not have expected, meals at stated hours. These consisted of beef, bread, chickens, eggs, and, what was really a luxury, snowy table-linen with plates, knives and forks, all temptingly clean. The hospitality of this place was repeated wherever we traveled in the Argentine States, and nev- er limited but by the means of our entertainers. San Cosmi has about four hundred inhabitants, with a plaza, around which stand the church and the best dwellings. The latter are generally adobe houses of one story, either tiled or thatched. From a hedge in this neighborhood I procured the silk of a small black spider, long, exquisitely fine, and yet so strong that, as I wound it upon a card, the branches of the hedge would bend without breaking the web. Our next ride was to Ytati, a village of several hundred inhab- itants, twenty miles from San Cosmi, and in the immediate vicin- age of the Parana, of which it commands an extended view. We went first to the house of the Juiz de Paz, whose pretty young wife received us with all the tact and ease innate to the women of that country, however humble their position. She chatted without embarrassment, and, probably discovering from our hun- gry faces that we had fasted for twelve hours, soon busied herself earnestly in preparing a supper which, to my surprise, comprised not only beef, chickens, and honey, but cow's milk and tea. The 268 THE HACIENDA YRISBUQUA. last was a delicate attention that we appreciated. A native of the capital, the senora had perhaps there learned that this was the fa- vorite evening beverage of foreigners. The plaza and its adobe houses were, in this place, overshadowed by an old Jesuitic church, then dilapidated, but which was about to undergo repairs that will make it one of the finest buildings of the province. The appearance of the country thus far forty miles east of the city of Corrientes was singular but picturesque, and needs but dwellings and culture to make it extremely beautiful. It was not low or level, but broken by verdant lomas (hillocks) and gentle undulations, intersected by lakes, some insulated, others connected by miniature straits. These lakes were covered with myriads of water-fowl, and, as we looked back upon them from some ridge of land, their waters sparkled in the sunlight, and the birds sport- ed as if alive to the beauty and security of haunts rarely or never invaded 'by man. Civil wars have desolated this land. Hedges alone marked the inclosures where once stood the buildings of a now abandoned estancia. The soil was rich and light; the corn and tobacco in quality quite equal to the best of Paraguay ; and the yield, in proportion to the extent of ground cultivated, is the best evidence of adaptation for such produce. I thought the pastures of the lo- mas better adapted to the rearing of sheep than of horned cattle. A visit to the Hacienda Yrisbuqua, about twenty miles from Ytati, enabled me to see the management of one of the largest grazing estates in the province, its owner, Don Anjel Bedoya, hav- ing given us letters to his capitaz. In approaching it, the low- lands were much under water, but the general appearance of the country was improved. The dwellings were placed upon the lo- mas, above the influence of inundation, and, though few and far between, were substantially built either of burned brick and tiled, or of adobe and roofed with palm. There was no cultivation ; but the pastures were fine, the cattle, horses, and sheep superior in number and size to any yet seen in Corrientes ; and the growth of algarroba and espinilla, the only woods there of any value, abundant. A hacienda, or grazing farm,* embraces generally an area of six miles- square, with about 6000 head of cattle, 500 sheep, and a few hundred horses. Although a great proportion of the land seemed to be not only arable, but of superior quality, * A hacienda is exclusively a grazing farm, while on an estancia cultivation is combined with grazing. HORSE-BREAKING. 269 we did not observe on one of them a yard square under culture ; not even a garden around the dwelling of the capitaz. In riding over the property of Don Anjel I had quite a novel amusement. An ostrich crossed my path, and, as I was well mounted, with an extended plain before me, I determined to try its speed with that .of my horse. I kept up the chase for more than a mile, when I abandoned the pursuit ; for it was evident that the ostrich " had the heels" of the horse. ' Mares were not worth more than fifty cents a head, there being an absurd prejudice against their use, even as beasts of burden ; and a man mounted on one would create as great a sensation and excite as much ridicule as a dandy upon a donkey in one of our thoroughfares of fashion. They are kept for breeding, and the in- crease is so enormous that they are slaughtered by hundreds, merely for their hides and grease, the latter being esteemed, for some purposes, superior to beef's tallow. The hair is worth about one dollar fifty cents the aroba, or six cents the pound ; and large herds are driven into corrals exclusively for the shearing. A mounted gaucho throws the lasso over the neck; another on foot secures the hind legs, when the mare is brought to the ground ; a third seizes the mane, a fourth the tail ; and thus, in an incredi- bly short time, the poor animal is despoiled. We also witnessed the " breaking" of saddle-horses and milch cows, the latter by no means a common operation ; for few things are less cared for than milk by the natives of La Plata. A wild horse is taken, by lasso, from a troop in the corral, to a post where, with his head closely confined, he is left for some hours kicking and pitching. To accustom him to the touch, the domador (horse-breaker) from time to time throws a. lasso about his legs, which so maddens the animal that his struggles become frightful, and end in his falling exhausted upon the ground. The guacho then bridles him, and, as the horse regains his feet, puts on the u recado," while another releases his head and springs upon his back. This is all the work of an instant. Now the battle be- tween rider and animal begins. The latter plunges, pitches, and rears, but in vain. There is no unhorsing the domador, who dashes on at full speed, whipping and spurring until, completely subdued, the horse is brought back to the post, to be exercised in the same way the following day, and again and again, until he is pronounced muy manso, broken, but rarely gentle. The cow is caught and thrown down by the lasso, when a worn- 270 FIRST DIFFICULTY IN PAEAGUAY. an tramples upon the udder to cause a discharge of milk. The animal is then led to a post, where she is bound head and legs while the milking goes on. In a few days she is sufficiently tamed to be classed among domestic animals. On returning to Ytati I found a letter from Lieutenant Powell requesting my presence in Asuncion, where a serious difficulty had arisen between the United States Consul and President Lopez. This controversy had passed through many phases when I ar- rived at the capital, and I have no idea of entering into details, farther than to state that the immediate cause of its outbursting, at that particular time, was an assault made by a soldier on the person of the brother of Mr. Hopkins while riding with a lady, also a foreigner. The man was driving cattle to the city, and on being met or overtaken by the riding party the herd was dis- persed into the woods. There was no personal injury to the lady or gentleman, but the insult was to be considered, and justly made a subject of com- plaint. In other countries it could have been settled without be- ing a government affair ; but here the President, as I have before so often stated, is the law, judiciary, and, de facto, head of all things. President Lopez took exception to the language in which the complaint was made. A paper war ensued ; crimination followed recrimination. The consular exequatur was revoked, and the wrath of the Chief Magistrate extended to the members of the American Company, of which Mr. Hopkins was agent. They had been permitted to occupy the quartel of San Antonio ; had im- proved the grounds, purchased some adjoining lands, erected a saw-mill, and established a cigar-factory. They were now forced to give up the quartel. The controversy waxed hotter and hot- ter. Decrees or bandos intended to embarrass their operations were issued, and at last the cigar-factory was closed, thereby vir- tually closing the business of the company in Paraguay. I give a few of the bandos, which, though applied to all foreigners, were at this time issued for the special embarrassment of the Americans. "1. No servant shall engage in the service of a foreigner without a writ- ten agreement or notification given and approved by the government, as to the amount of wages. " 2. All meetings of foreigners, except for the ostensible object of visit- ing and innocent diversion, are forbidden, by day and by night. " 3. All foreigners must take out a license to engage in any commercial or industrial ursuit." INTERVIEW WITH THE PRESIDENT. 271 This last article was reasonable ; but the company, though go- ing on for a year, had not before been required to take out a li- cense, and when Mr. Hopkins made an application for it, in the character of "general agent," having paid sixteen dollars for the stamped paper, it was refused on the ground of his being "gen- eral agent." This title was objectionable to the government, and would not be recognized. He must apply as " agent," without the "general." I am to this day mystified by this phase of the difficulty. There was but one General in Paraguay, the son and heir of the Presi- dent; but by what process of reasoning the title of the " General Agent" reflected upon the head of the military arm I am unable to say ; neither do I see why it should not have been relinquished. There were other petty annoyances, seemingly of a general bear- ing, but in fact aimed at the American Company. Affairs had reached this crisis when I arrived at Asuncion, and found Mr. Hopkins determined, by reason of the course of the government, to leave the country with the members of the com- pany and such of their effects as could be conveniently removed. To show my course in this controversy, and the part I took to- ward effecting a restoration of the former state of things, to enable the company to proceed with its operations, I shall quote from my journal : " Sept. 21st, 1854. This morning, at 9 A.M., I called on Presi- dent Lopez ; was courteously received, and discussed the difficulty between the government and Mr. Hopkins at some length. The President said the soldier had been severely punished by the in- fliction of three hundred stripes in " running the gauntlet" through the regiment to which he was attached. He complained of the intemperate language of Mr. Hopkins. It was, he said, insulting to him, and he had in consequence withdrawn his exequatur. " I desired to be informed if the American Company would be allowed to carry on its operations under a guarantee of protection. He assured me that it would, and that it should receive every protection enjoyed by other business associations, whether foreign or native; but that the agent, Mr. Hopkins, was personally ob- noxious to him, and he would not consent to his engaging in any business in the country. "I informed him that other Americans belonging to the com- pany had complained to me of insulting remarks made to them since that occurrence, even by officials ; and said, ' I wish to know, 272 THE AMERICAN COMPANY. Sir, if, in the event of their remaining, they will be treated person- ally with respect, and shielded from the possible recurrence of in- sult or indignities.' He replied, ' They shall.' " I met Mr. Hopkins by appointment, and informed him of the result of my interview with the President. He then informed me that the business of the company had been broken up by the ac- tion of the government, regardless of all pre-existing contracts ; and that he should hold it responsible for the damages, looking to the United States Government for the enforcement of the rec- lamation ; that, under these circumstances, he wished, with the company, to withdraw from Paraguay, but that no trading vessel would take them, the master fearing that the odium in which he was held by the government would be visited on them. "I replied, 'I will see the President, and if no arrangement can be made for your leaving the country by a trading vessel, I will receive the members of the company and their effects on board the Water Witch, and convey them to Corrientes' this being the point at which he wished to establish them. " I called again at the government-house, stated to the Presi- dent the apprehensions of Mr. Hopkins, and suggested that he ^should allow the Captain of the Port to procure a vessel, which would at once set at rest the fears of any shipmaster as to the consequences of receiving the Americans. He said, * This shall be done.' ' Now, Sir,' I asked, * what forms must be complied with to enable the company to leave Paraguay with their prop- erty ?' He replied, ' They will simply be required to procure passports, and a " permit" from the custom-house for the shipment of their effects and merchandise; ' % all of which they are at liberty to take with them, paying the export duty on such articles as are products of the country. 7 They had about' eight hundred arobas of superior tobacco. "A vessel was engaged, passports obtained, and I concluded that all was satisfactorily arranged for the departure of the com- pany, when one of its members came on board the Water Witch and complained of fresh insults by the Chief of Police. " Again I called on the President. It was my last interview with his Excellency. I reminded him of the assurances he had given me as to the personal treatment of the members of the com- pany, and stated the new complaint, informing him, at the same time, in decided but courteous language, that my duty obliged me to watch over the rights of American citizens wherever I PROGRESS OF THE DIFFICULTY. 273 should meet them abroad. The Chief of Police was summoned, and in a few minutes was announced as waiting the orders of his Excellency. He was directed to enter. The door opened, the Chief of Police stood on the threshold, and made a low bow. ' Approach, ' said his Excellency. The Chief of Police approached. * Take a seat.' He sat down, but uneasily. It was an unusual honor accorded him. The President stated the charge made against him. He of course denied every word, rising to his feet as he spoke. " ' Be seated, Sir,' said the President. " The Chief of Police could not be kept seated, and rose at every word addressed to his Excellency. He was at last ordered to withdraw. The President was apparently as well satisfied of the truth of his statement as I was of the contrary. He then said that as the American in question had been the superintendent of the factory, he wished him to remove the sign (a piece of tin) and take a receipt for it, as he did not wish to give the company occa- sion to say that any of its property was withheld. I told him the individual in question could not do this, but I would relieve his Excellency from all embarrassment by directing one of my boat's crew to receive it. With some hesitancy, he acceded to this ar- rangement. " In this interview I expressed myself very decidedly, but with the courtesy due to the President's position, and we parted appar- ently without any rupture of our friendly relations. "I had scarcely got on board the Water Witch, congratulating myself that the difficulties were over, when another note was re- ceived from Mr. Hopkins. On applying for. a ' permit' to ship the goods, it had been refused until he should surrender the pa- pers, deeds, etc., which secured to the company certain lands, pur- chased and paid for. " Before taking any farther steps I sent my clerk to ascertain from the Collector if I must understand that he refused a ' permit' for the dispatch of the company's merchandise on the grounds mentioned. He returned with a reply in the affirmative. " I had been long enough in the country to know that the Col- lector would not dare to take such a step without instructions from the President. It was in direct violation of every promise his Excellency had given me, and I saw clearly that the moment had arrived when my action in this difficulty should be matter of record. I addressed a note to the Minister of Foreign Eelations, 18 274 RETURN OF LETTERS. stating the facts of the case, repeating the assurances of the Presi- dent, and telling him what would be my course for the relief of the members of this company if they were not allowed to depart by the usual mode of conveyance. " On the afternoon of the same day I had received no reply; but a verbal message came from the Minister of Foreign Kelations to the captain's clerk, desiring him to call at his office. I gave him permission to go ; but, suspecting that the object of this call was to question him as to my correspondence, I enjoined silence. The secretary desired him to take my notes and request me to have them translated. I replied verbally that I must correspond with the government in my own language, and could not allow my letters to be translated by any one associated with me. Ac- companying the note in question was one informing him that I had just received dispatches from our Minister at the Court of Brazil inclosing permission from his Imperial Majesty's Govern- ment to explore the Paraguay and its tributaries, within the lim- its of the empire, and expressing the hope that his Excellency would allow me again to pass through the waters of his territory to reach those of Brazil. This note shared the fate of the others. But that the contents of both were known to the President is evi- dent from the tenor of subsequent articles in the Seminario, the government organ, published at Asuncion. " President Lopez, I am told, reads both French and English ;* added to this, there is an intelligent Englishman residing at Asuncion who translates for him, and much more correctly than I, my clerk, or any one associated with me could possibly have done. " Failing to coerce me into this measure the sole object of which was to exhibit to the people of Paraguay his authority over a foreign officer my notes were returned the following day, with one from the Minister of Foreign Kelations, Mr. Jose Falcon, in- forming me that the President did not read English, and desiring that I would translate them into Spanish, when they would re- ceive proper attention. " I replied to Mr. Falcon, f stating that the contemptuous treat- ment of my official communications, addressed in courteous lan- guage, was a thing unprecedented in this age of civilization ; that it deprived me of the means of arriving at the intentions of his government relative to the departure of the Americans, and forced * But imperfectly, I presume. t See Appendix F. DEPARTURE FROM ASUNCION. 275 upon me the inference that my request had been refused, thus making it an imperative duty to remove them from Paraguay in the Water Witch. At the same time I informed the Captain of the Port that I should receive them and their effects on board, and leave Asuncion at a certain hour. " Scarcely had this announcement been made when President Lopez issued the * permit,' showing conclusively that his Excel- lency was fully informed of the contents of my notes, if he did not read English." It was late. The Americans were in the act of coming on board before its issue was made known. It expedited matters, however, for it was accompanied by an order to the Port Captain to afford them every facility in shipping their goods. My last written communication to the Government of Paraguay was returned, accompanied by a note, of the same .tenor as the previous one, from Mr. Jose Falcon. This was sent by an officer or employe in the office of the Captain of the Port, who, without coming on board, delivered the papers at the gangway, and made off in an instant, as if he feared infection or capture. I gave them in charge of an officer of the Water Witch, and directed him to return them to the Captain of the Port; and should he object to receive them, to place them in his office. The officer reported that he had acted in accordance with my orders. Before getting under way, having occasion to pass through a good portion of the town, I observed that it presented an unusual appearance ; not a soul was abroad. Asuncion was not at siesta, for it was not the hour; moreover, heads were peering through half-opened doors, showing that curiosity was stronger than fear or sleep. Something was wrong, and the people were anxious to know what difficulties were brewing with the " supreme govern- ment." The plaza, usually the gayest and noisiest place imaginable, was deserted. I missed the picturesque groups of market women, with their white cotton mantas, seated upon the ground, encircled by fruits, vegetables, and an eager crowd of buyers. Not a man, cart, or horse was to be seen, except a few conveying the effects of the American Company to the beach. What was feared ? The following explanation was made : " Last night (the 28th), at midnight, the President called a con- sultation of his advisers, at which your letter was considered. The wise ' heads' thought they saw in it another * Greytown af- 276 ASPECT OF THE CAPITAL. fair.' His Excellency thought, as heavy bodies move slowly, it would be prudent to be prepared ; so he sent for a machinist to examine his carriage, and see that all was in good running condi- tion. Orders were issued that no one should appear in the plaza or -streets after eleven o'clock this morning, and not a horse or cart, except those engaged in transporting the goods of the Amer- ican Company, was to be seen." I had observed, as I have before stated, an unquestioning sub- mission to the authority of the President ; and in giving another's statement, I do so without adding my own indorsement of the suspicion. " The submission of the people to the present grinding system is only simulated. They are not insensible to their thralldom, and the President really feared that if you fired at the govern- ment-house, the people might avail themselves of the opportu- nity to rise and change the order of things. He was prepared to run." I had held pleasant social intercourse, while at Asuncion, with the Brazilian Consul, an amiable, gentlemanly person, who came on board the Water Witch and expressed, with much anxiety, the hope that I was not really about to fire into the town. I as- sured him that I had no such intention, and had never by word or deed intimated that I would do so ; but that it was utterly im- possible for me to be responsible for the gossip of others, or per- haps the inspiration of some wag who wished to frighten the President. My language and conduct, up to that moment, had been studiously respectful to the government; and as it had yielded every point, as the Americans personally were safe and on board the Water Witch, and the " permit" had been issued to facilitate the shipment of their goods, there was no possible ex- cuse for so extreme a measure. I was not at all ambitious of the inglorious achievement of firing into a town, destroying the prop- erty of unoffending citizens, perhaps the lives of women and chil- dren, and disturbing the course of a government with which I had been directed to treat for commercial intercourse. The prepara- tion of the steamer, with her three howitzers, placed on board as a protection against savages, was simply a duty to meet any con- tingency that might occur. I pointed out to him a field-piece, apparently a nine-pounder, on a very beautiful and commanding position, near a well-stored magazine, and within good howitzer range, around which were a number of soldiers ready to apply PASSING TRES BOCAS. 279 the match; and said to him, " Should not that admonish me to be ready ? I shall certainly defend my flag." I had, it is true, resolved that if the property of the Americans was retained by the President, or placed where it was beyond the reach of our guns, to return the compliment by capturing his " navy" at Tres Bocas." But I had made no such threat, had no excuse for such an act at that time, and did not regret it. Under the " permit" finally issued, the effects of the company which could not be taken on board the Water Witch were placed in the hands of an agent, to be shipped to Corrientes. With the Americans on board I left Asuncion the 29th of Sep- tember. On reaching Tres Bocas we observed an unusual array of soldiers, and the little navy of five vessels, with their arma- ment, ranging from two to six guns, all doubly manned, and ready, as the President had said, to " salute or fight." The ves- sels were moored so close to the bank that a plank from each would have enabled the personnel of the marine to make an ex- cursion into the interior of the country at the shortest possible no- tice. On the deck of the flag-ship, a prominent figure in the- pic- ture, stood my old friend the " Admiral." Salutes would have been dangerous; for, from the evident state of hostile preparation, the first flash of one of their guns might have been returned by a fire from our howitzer, without delay for explanation. We passed slowly and in silence ; many a soul on the Water Witch devoutly hoping, perhaps, that some brave son of Paraguay would provoke a fight. I was glad that we were able to leave Paraguay peacefully. From our first entrance into her waters and the " Admiral's" re- ception at Tres Bocas ; in our cruise to the northern frontier ; during my land journey through the interior from west to east, from river to river, and in that subsequently made by Lieutenant Powell through the Yerbales, we had been hospitably and kindly received. And, indeed, the course of the President toward us, until his outbreak with the Consul, was characterized by extreme consideration. In all my official intercourse with him, in applica- tions for facilities which the government alone could grant in forwarding the expedition and it has been seen that they were not unfrequent he met my propositions readily and observed his promises to the letter. I was aware of the faults of his political system, but even that was better than I had been led to anticipate before entering the country. My business there was not that 280 COURSE OF THE EXPEDITION. of a regenerator. On the contrary, while acting firmly and, to the best of my ability, conscientiously, for the protection of the American Trading Company, the dignity of our flag, and with a due regard to our national interests, I studiously avoided wound- ing the susceptibilities of the people and rulers. Paraguay had scarcely joined the family of nations. Our peo- ple in the United States knew nothing of her social or political condition. We had never, until 1853, been represented there by even a Consul. I should, therefore, under all circumstances, with- out any personal feeling toward the President, and without refer- ence to him as a man, have deemed it as much my duty to give the result of my observations upon the political state of the coun- try as I should upon the rocks and shoals of her rivers. I be- lieve my impressions to be correct. They were formed without prejudice, and may possibly assist us in directing our future dip- lomatic and commercial relations with Paraguay. For trade, Paraguay was unoccupied ground. I had been sent there to negotiate a commercial treaty, to examine her rivers, and report upon her resources. I thought at the time, and still be- lieve, that a valuable commerce might grow up with the United States. For manufactured articles it must be for many years a considerable market. Again : the long-sought and much-desired permission of Brazil to explore her waters the ^result of a negotiation upon the part of two of our Ministers for eighteen months reached me in the midst of these difficulties. My future labors there and in Bolivia I had contemplated as the most interesting, and the most fruitful in results for science and commerce. Paraguay controlled the entrance into their rivers, and could embarrass my anticipated movements. I had every reason, official and personal, to use for- bearance and discretion ; and yet President Lopez, in -his dispatch to our government, complains of the hostile attitude I assumed. The position of the President is perhaps an uneasy one. His people know nothing of other countries. He governs them by maintaining an impenetrable reserve, and impressing them with the infallibility of his own acts and his commanding position 'among "rulers." He forgot that the members of the American Company were not Paraguayans, and that I was the representa- tive of a republic where there are no " state secrets." He could not give my notes to a third party for translation. They were couched in respectful but decided language ; their contents would DECEEES OF LOPEZ. 281 have become known to the citizens ; and the declaration to pur- sue a certain line of conduct, with or without the permission of the "supreme government," wag an assertion of independence, even on the part of a foreign officer, that the President did not care should be known. I have been as concjse as possible in the foregoing statement. It unfortunately led to a radical change in the feelings of Presi- dent Lopez toward myself, and placed me in a position of antago- nism which, as will be seen, I carefully endeavored to avoid. His vials of wrath seemed, like the widow's cruse, inexhaustible. On the 3d of October he issued a decree designed to break up my intended exploration of the waters of Brazil and Bolivia,* and, through the columns of his organ, the Seminario, poured forth his indignation in language marked by great asperity a tone and style recognized in the countries of La Plata as peculiar to his Excellency. On the 15th of October Mr. E. C. Buckalew arrived at Corri- entes in a river steamer, the Buenos Ayres. He was bearer of the exchange of ratifications of the treaty of the 4th of March, nego- tiated by Mr. Pendleton, and ratified by the Senate of the United States. He also brought letters from the Secretary of State, Mr. Marcy, instructing me to propose the exchange. The treaties ne- gotiated at the same time by the Ministers of France, England, and Sardinia had long since been ratified, and their consuls for Asuncion were on board this steamer. As the Water "Witch was excluded from entering Paraguayan waters by the decree of the 3d, I dispatched Lieutenant Mur- daugh and Doctor Carter by the Buenos Ayres, with a note to the Minister of Foreign Eelations informing him that I was com- missioned to exchange ratifications, and desiring to know when and where I should meet a person duly authorized to act on the part of the Government of Paraguay. On delivering the paper, Lieutenant Murdaugh, as instructed, informed him verbally of its contents. He received the following reply, with my note re- turned. I insert it as a specimen of diplomatic writing : * The following is a translation of this decree : "Article 1st. In the navigation of the rivers of the republic, foreign vessels of war are excluded. "2d. The exploration of the rivers of upper Paraguay, which are embraced within the territory of the republic, or of other neighboring states, can not be made through the lower Paraguay, pending the settlement of limits with the neighboring powers, Brazil and Bolivia." 282 STATEMENTS OF LOPEZ. [TRANSLATION.] "ASUNCION, October 21st, 1854. " MR. THOMAS J. PAGE, Commander of the Water Witch. " In accordance with the conditions of my previous dates of the 29th and 30th* of the past, I return you your note dated the 16th of October in Corrientes, written in English, without accompanying it with a signed translation ; astonished that you should persist in your idea of mortifying me. " De V. L. atento servidor, (Signed) JOS^ FALCON/ When we remember that the Spanish Americans are scrupu- lously observant of all form and ceremonial in official corresporyd- ence, the quo ammo which dictated the above note is manifest on its face. It does not concede to the Water Witch her nationality : it is addressed to no particular place, and is not concluded in ac- cordance with diplomatic usage. Every effort on my part, consistent with a proper consideration of the position I occupied, to eifect an exchange of ratification having been made without success, I reported the result to the State Department. After my return home, Colonel Eichard Fitz- patrick was deputed Special Commissioner to Paraguay for the same purpose, but failed in the effort. President Lopez repeats, in his message to the Paraguay Con- gress of 1857, certain statements relative to the part I took in the " American Company's affair" which he had made in a dispatch to the United States Government, dated October 3d, 1854. He says, in alluding to passports taken out by the Americans when they expected to leave in a trading vessel: "Commander Page dashed those passports into the office of the Captain of the Port, saying that Americans had no occasion to carry them."-f I neither saw the passports nor gave any directions about them; and, as far as my memory serves me, I heard nothing of them. If this vulgar and unnecessary exhibition was made by any American it never came to my knowledge, or it would have re- ceived a merited rebuke. Again, the dispatch says: "At the same time he ordered the * These two I am unable to insert, as they were returned, in retaliation for the treatment my previous notes had received. f "El Commandante Page hizo arrojar esas pasaportes en la Capitania del Puerto, deciendo no las necesitaban para llevar Americanos." THE MINISTER OF FOREIGN RELATIONS. 283 notes of the Minister of Foreign Kelations to be dashed down with the passports."* I have before stated that the notes alluded to were given to an officer, who was directed to deliver them to the Captain of the Port, and to say that I desired no longer to continue communi- cations with the government, as my notes were returned unan- swered. And should the Captain of the. Port object to receive them which I thought probable, judging from the manner of his messenger to the Water Witch the officer was directed to place them on his table, and return. This officer was also accom- panied by the captain's clerk, Mr. Bushell, who spoke the Span- ish language. I can not believe that either of them would have been guilty of so great a breach of respect. Whatever might have been their feelings toward President Lopez personally, they perfectly understood the respect due to an official correspondence ; added to this, I believe that all of the officers of the Water Witch entertained the most friendly feeling toward the Port Captain. I have alluded to our final departure from the waters of Para- guay. In referring to this, the Minister of Foreign Eelations says, in his dispatch of February 4th, 1855 : " It is known throughout the world, f the surprising departure of Senor Commandante Don Thomas J. Page, who left highly offended and irritated at the people^: of Paraguay. On the 30th of September last, from early dawn of the day there was evidence of fire proceeding from the smoke-stack of the steamer. Her guns were ordered to be load- ed ; and being asked by a certain stranger relative to this hostile preparation, he had the coolness to say it was to prevent any im- pediment to the departure of the Americans in the steamer. Page knew well that Hopkins and other Americans obtained passports on the 27th of the aforesaid September. Hopkins, in addition to his passport, took out a permit for his effects, tobacco and cigars." In giving the date when they " obtained passports," why should the date "when he took out a permit" be omitted? Because, if dated at all, it would have borne that of the day on which the Americans came on board ; and President Lopez thought to pre- serve his prestige intact by granting permission to do what he had failed to prevent. * " Tambien mando arrojar con las pasaportes las notas que le ha despidido el Ministro de Relaciones Esteriores." + What an extensive circulation he imagines the Seminario to have ! I He is mistaken : he should have said government. 284: LOPEZ AND FOREIGNERS. I think all will agree with me that such inaccuracies become a national insult when introduced into an official correspondence. If the government of the United States desire to establish and maintain commercial relations with Paraguay, if it intend that the citizens of our country shall peaceably reside there in carry- ing out the pursuits of trade, shall enjoy the privileges and im- munities usually secured to foreigners in other states of South America, its course toward that republic must be decided, or it should abandon the idea of intercourse, and let our commercial community understand its policy. The respect entertained by President Lopez for any foreign government is measured by the estimate he attaches to its power and determination to enforce its just rights. This opinion is not speculative. It is based upon facts; upon acts of that govern- ment which have occurred within a very recent date, to my own knowledge. Its disregard of treaties, contracts, and obligations, regarded as binding in honor as in law, is established by numer- ous instances of bad faith. A treaty was signed, without due consideration, by General Urquiza, granting to Paraguay the exclusive right to navigate the Yermejo ; but when submitted to the Congress of the Argen- tine Confederation, it was rejected. What was the course of President Lopez in this case? The rejection of the treaty ren- dered it null and void, and one would suppose that the question remained in statu quo. But, instead of acting on this principle, his Excellency claimed the power which a ratification would have given him, and closed the navigation of this river to " all, but especially to vessels under the Argentine flag." This is his mode of treating where he possesses the power. A French colony was brought over in 1854, under the guaran- tee of a solemn contract, and established not, as its deluded members supposed, in Paraguay proper but opposite, in the Chaco, a territory in dispute between Bolivia and Paraguay, and actually in possession of the aborigines. Such was the treatment of these foreigners by President Lopez, that before the expiration of one year they broke up, and many of them escaped not by the river, for the vigilance of its chain of guardias is not easily eluded, but through the Chaco, preferring to run the gauntlet of Indians, jaguars, and starvation to living under such oppression.* * France has a treaty of friendship, commerce, and navigation concluded with Paraguay, and has a resident consul at Asuncion. PAEAGUAY AND BEAZIL. 285 In 1855 the Emperor of Brazil sent a squadron of eleven men- of-war and as many transports, all well appointed, to adjust sev- eral questions between the two governments. Among the most important was that of territorial limits and the right of way to the Brazilian province of Matto Grosso. The squadron was stopped at Tres Bocas ; only one steamer, the Admiral's, being permitted to ascend to Asuncion. Negotiations were entered into.; some minor points were settled ; and the expedition returned, foiled in its main object by the superior generalship and diplomacy of the President of Paraguay. The press of Brazil and the Imperial Legislature thundered their invectives not only against the Para- guay government, but against their own, for the failure. What was the course of President Lopez ? After constructing a battery which would give some trouble to the Brazilian navy, with his usual astute diplomacy, and with a view of allaying the wounded feelings of his neighbors, and to lull their government into a con- fiding belief as to the sincerity of his motives, he dispatched a minister to Eio Janeiro to renew negotiations. A treaty was concluded, granting to Brazil the right to navi- gate the Paraguay throughout, and reserving the question of limits for future adjustment. The Imperial papers were full of this treaty ; honors were showered upon the successful diplomat ; the struggle of years with Eosas and with Lopez was ended; Brazil had access by water to her northwest provinces, and ves- sels well freighted were dispatched to Cuyaba. But what is the end of it ? Every imaginable obstacle is thrown in the way by the government of Paraguay. Vessels are unnecessarily stopped at guardias and towns; passports are vised and re-examined at each and all ; pilots are changed and cargoes examined involv- ing not only delay but expenses not anticipated. The treaty from which so much was expected turns out a nullity. Brazil then sends an embassador to Asuncion with special instructions to re- move all difficulties. What is the result? He returns, having effected nothing.* And yet the government of Paraguay is suffered to pursue this course. Well may the President imagine himself irresponsible, and impress upon his people the " supremacy of the republic." But the greatest of all outrages has been perpetrated upon our flag. While peacefully pursuing the objects of the expedition, * Brazil, with, certain warlike preparations, subsequently sent a minister to Para- guay, who brought that government to terms. 286 OUTRAGE UPON THE WATER WITCH. when her commander, all the officers (save the first lieutenant and engineers), and the better part of the crew, were engaged upon a distant work, the "Water Witch was wantonly fired into from the Port of Itapira, one of her men killed, and the steamer damaged. It will be seen, in the sequel, that the vessel was in neutral wa- ters, and engaged only in the legitimate work of the expedition. It was the moment to give Paraguay a spirited rebuke that would have been remembered. In vain I sought the means of avenging the outrage without possibility of failure ; but it remained un- noticed until President Buchanan, in his first annual message, called the attention of Congress to our relations with Paraguay, and requested that means should be placed at his disposal to de- mand redress for the insult to our flag and for the wrongs inflicted upon American citizens.* It is made manifest by this enumeration of offenses that the Argentine States, France, Brazil, and the United States have tol- * " I regret to inform you that the President of Paraguay has refused to ratify the treaty between the United States and that state as amended by the Senate, the signature of which was mentioned in the message of my predecessor to Congress at the opening of its session in December, 1853. The reasons assigned for this refusal will appear in the correspondence herewith submitted. " It being desirable to ascertain the fitness of the river La Plata and its tribu- taries for navigation by steam, the United States steamer Water Witch was sent thither for that purpose in 1853. This enterprise was successfully carried on until February, 1855, when, while in the peaceful prosecution of her voyage up the Pa- rana river, the steamer was fired upon by a Paraguayan fort. The fire was re- turned ; but as the Water Witch was of small force, and not designed for offensive operations, she retired from the conflict. The pretext upon which the attack was made was a decree of the President of Paraguay of October, 1854, prohibiting for- eign vessels of war from navigating the rivers of that state. As Paraguay, how- ever, was the owner of but one bank of the river of that name, the other belonging to Corrientes, a state of the Argentine Confederation, the right of its government to expect that such a decree would be obeyed can not be acknowledged. But the Water Witch was not, properly speaking, a vessel of war. She was a small steamer engaged in a scientific enterprise intended for the advantage of commer- cial states generally. Under these circumstances I am constrained to consider the attack upon her as unjustifiable and as calling for satisfaction from the Paraguayan government. " Citizens of the United States also, who were established in business in Para- guay, have had their property seized and taken from them, and have otherwise been treated by the authorities in an insulting and arbitrary manner which requires redress. "A demand for these purposes will be made in a firm but conciliatory spirit. This will the more probably be granted if the Executive shall have authority to use other means in the event of a refusal. This is accordingly recommended." Mes- sage. OUR TRUE POLICY. 287 erated indignities and wrongs of far greater magnitude than those which have often been the cause of war. We must at least ad- mire the boldness of President Lopez, and the ability which char- acterizes his diplomatic course. At this moment he invites im- migration. His offers to foreign companies wishing to engage in industrial and commercial enterprises are specious and plausible. I believe that under the guarantee of treaties, followed by able representation, a great and annually increasing trade could be established with all the interior states of South America, even with Paraguay. But, at the same time, a strict observance of the spirit and intent as well as of the letter of treaties must be exact- ed. The trimming and evasive policy, the constant effort to gain some advantage without the commission of open and avowed acts, which characterizes the course of the Paraguay government, should be arrested. That clause in treaties which secures to the resident foreigner the privileges and immunities extended to the natives would generally throw around him all needed guards against oppression. But what are the privileges of citizens of Paraguay ? Isolated, ignorant of the political or even geograph- ical divisions of the world; unable to contrast the operations of other governments with their own, they submissively acquiesce, and say " amen" to all the mandates of the " supreme govern- ment." A foreigner, familiar with constitutional laws and indi- vidual rights, is naturally restive in Paraguay. But, on the other hand, "filibustering" will not create for us, as a nation, respect in the South American Kepublics. Neither will it promote our commercial interests nor advance civilization. The most brilliant oratorical efforts in our National Legislature upon the " Monroe doctrine" will be unavailing if we fail to con- vince them that our policy is genial and sympathetic. It is easy to have our flag respected without making it suspected. Among the states of La Plata there is a manifest struggle to advance. The course of Urquiza toward our representative, Mr. Pendleton ; the Constitution of the Argentine States, modeled upon our own ; the dispatches from Bolivia, show that they look for political sym- pathy, and at the same time earnestly desire to enter into com- mercial intercourse with us. I believe that President Lopez, from his reception of our expedition, desires it. A few rebukes and able diplomatic representation will soon make known to that as- tute personage the terms upon which it can be maintained. 288 LIEUTENANT MURDAUGH'S EXPEDITION. CHAPTEE XVI. Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo. Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore the southern and western parts of the Province. Extract from Journal of Lieu- tenant Murdaugh. Cotton. Saladas. Sugar. San Roque. Return to Bella Vista. Goya. Rincon de Soto. A Tour in the Governor's Galera. A Bivou- ac. Curuzu Quatia. Return. River Mirinay.- Estancia Bonpland. Res- tauracion. Uruguayana. Note from M. Bonpland. Imprisonment of the Nat- uralist. Tobacco. Coffee. Lagoon of Ybera. I HOPED that nothing more would or could break in upon the legitimate work of the expedition. Lieutenant Powell was dispatched to Montevideo, with the Water Witch, for money, provisions, and ship-stores ; Lieutenant Murdaugh was sent to make a detailed survey of the Pass of Bel- la Vista, one of the most difficult on the Parana ; and to Acting Master Henry was assigned the continuation of the chart- work ; also the astronomical and meteorological observations at Corri- entes. The Meteorological Journal given in the Appendix will show the daily state of the weather, but I quote from my own private journal its changes, and the temperature of the 2d December throughout the coolest and warmest hours of the day. This is the first summer month, and although the day selected does not exhibit the highest rise of the thermometer, it may be assumed as one of the hottest of that climate, and as showing the most sudden changes and greatest extremes of temperature. " At 6 A.M., thermometer 80 in the coolest part of the house ; at 9 A.M., in the patio, where there is a free circulation of air, it stands at 89, wet-bulb 79 5' ; clear light air from KJST.E. ; op- pressively warm. At 12 M., thermometer 92, wet-bulb 79 5' ; partially cloudy ; wind N.N.E. At 12 45 P.M., a few drops of rain, cloudy ; thermometer 90 3', wet-bulb 79 6'. At 2 P.M., showers of rain ; wind east. At 4 P.M., thermometer 78 5', wet- bulb 73 ; cloudy; windS.S.E." After completing the examination of the Bella Yista Pass, Mr. Murdaugh was sent on a tour through the southern and western part of the province. His course was south to Goya ; east to the Uruguay Kiver, passing through Curuzu Quatia; north, along TRAVELING AND TRANSPORTATION. 289 its banks, to Eestauracion ; and thence to San Koque, on his re- turn to the capital : thus passing through the finest land of Corri- entes. He traveled by post the most convenient way of passing through the country, notwithstanding the miserable horses usually found at the postas. By paying a small sum extra, good ones, which are generally the private property of the master of the post, can be had. I quote from Mr. Murdaugh's journal : " From the Eiachuelo (about nine miles from the capital) to the Arroyo Empedrado, the country is flat, with considerable wood- land in patches. These are happily called in Spanish islas (isl- ands). The road good. The Emepedrado is now about two feet deep, but at times it is not fordable. There is much fine timber, principally quebracho, on its banks, but it is never trans- ported by the river. " These countries have an extensive system of natural canaliza- tion in the riachos (streams) and riacliuelos (rivulets) that course through the interior provinces. Yet it is wonderful to observe how carefully they are avoided as means of transportation or communication, while the ox-wagon, the vehicle of centuries, moves lazily on so slowly that at a distance an observer can scarcely detect its movement. ; carrying comparatively little, and consuming time, money, and labor unnecessarily. " About five miles south of this river the country becomes un- dulating, which is a great relief to the monotony of the pampas. At the distance of about eight miles from it stands the Capilla del Senor, on the banks of the Parana, containing about 500 inhabit- ants. At the port were several vessels loading with timber (que- bracho), which is brought from about eighteen miles in the inte- rior, in ox-wagons drawn by six oxen, with a relay of the same number. Each wagon carries three or four pieces of this timber. Each piece is eighteen feet in length and nine inches square ; three feet of which weighs one hundred pounds. The quality of the soil is much better than that generally found on the Parana. Considerable quantities of sugar-cane and corn are cultivated. At the posta, seven miles south of the Capilla, we stopped for the night. We managed to get a couple of little chickens for supper, and room enough to stretch our hammocks. Fifteen miles south of the Capilla we passed the Arroyo San Lorenzo, in the neigh- borhood of which the scenery is the finest I have seen in the prov- ince. The lands, sloping gradually to the river, remind one of 19 290 CULTIVATION OF COTTON. those pretty localities about Asuncion del Paraguay. For the same distance south of San Lorenzo the scene changes ; the coun- try is rather desolate, and so continues until reaching the -neigh- borhood of Bella Vista. " Here "we were warmly welcomed by our friend Mr. Henry Hall, one of an English firm engaged in dry-goods and hardware trade. This little town has the prettiest situation on the Parana, and bids fair to become a place of consequence. " Corn, tobacco, and sugar-cane are cultivated more extensively than in any other part of the province. Hides and timber are shipped from here ; the latter is brought from a distance of 18 to 36 miles in ox- wagons, at a cost of 20 cents the yard. Our countryman, Mr. Yeatman, is struggling hard against weeds, thistles, want of labor, etc., in the cultivation of cotton. He has been at work for a year and a half, and thus far has failed entire- ly. He is now planting American cotton, with the hope of better success. He intends planting every year. He found that the , perennial plant, after it has attained a growth of a year or more, deteriorates, and if not worked the annual product would be less and less. I am satisfied, after all that has been said in favor of it because of the economy of labor, that the cultivation of the annual plant would prove much more profitable, notwithstanding the necessary yearly preparation of the ground. The best yield of a perennial plant is said to be four pounds of cotton in the seed. " Mr. Yeatman's selection of ground was, doubtless, unfortunate; and yet, so far as we have seen and heard, cotton is a product to which the soil of Corrientes is well adapted. No man should at- tempt its cultivation in these countries without first securing the necessary labor, for it is not to be had on an emergency. If the work could be done by a gaucho on horseback, there would be no difficulty. All inclosures must be made of iron wire, there being no timber in the province suitable for such a purpose. "Outside of Bella Yista the horizon is as unbroken as that at sea. The town is hid among orange-groves. A good tree here is worth several dollars per annum ; so that any one w^ho has a grove of a thousand trees possesses a respectable fortune. Yet, because they do not pay for eight years, an orange-grove is rarely seen, save on the estancia of some foreigner. " To pass through the little town of Saladas, we had to retrace our steps nearly to the San Lorenzo. At the posta just before reaching the town, a miserable rancho, the wife of the master is a SALADAS. SAN EOQUE. 291 a woman with/light liair and eyes. She is a native-born lady ; the most pleasing woman of her class I have ever met with in the provinces. She never allows her children to speak Gua- rani, and always addresses them in Spanish and very clear and pretty Spanish it is. Children of the pampas will mount a horse as soon as they are able to walk; but here is her son, a boy but four years of age, who has never done so. He shows an aversion to horses, and insists upon being a sailor. Living fifteen miles from the river, I doubt very much if he ever saw a vessel. This looks like natural adaptation. His mother's opportunities for ac- quiring such good manners were not superior to his for being a sailor in embryo. " Saladas is situated amid islas of wood and surrounded by ex- tensive lagoons, with fine fertile lands between them. These la- goons are the homes of innumerable wild fowl ; and the land, where cultivated, produces most luxuriantly. " Saladas is a very pretty place, containing about 500 inhabit- ants, principally employed in timber-cutting. A number of mag- nificent orange-trees around the town are each worth $2 per year. The soil is well adapted to corn and sugar-cane, but rather wet for cotton, although the plant is said to bear well for five years, yielding four pounds in the seed. The only cultivation is a little clearing around the roots. " The making of sugar here would be a very profitable busi- ; ness. Labor, though scarce, may be had at four dollars the month. There is not a pound of sugar made in the country. All the de- mand is supplied with the most indifferent Brazilian, at prices that would pay well. Mr. Hall, in Bella Yista, makes molasses and rum of all the cane he can procure. Here is a fine field for immigration. The country must become agricultural, for the scarcity of cattle has made the raising of them in certain parts of Corrientes a thing that was. " Steam saw-mills also should pay well in this part of the coun- try. The large trees have been left standing because of the diffi- culty in their transportation. These could easily be reduced to transportable timber, and by the Santa Lucia Kiver, distant nine miles, floated into the Parana; instead of, as now, carting it 36 miles at an expense of 20 cents the vara. " Arrived at San Eoque, distant from Saladas 24 miles. This village, situated on the left bank of the Santa Lucia, has about 300 inhabitants. The houses, as in all other towns of its size, are 292 BELLA VISTA. GOYA. SANTA LUCIA. built of adobe or of a net-work of poles, plastered and white- washed both inside and out; the roof thatched or covered with the trunks of palms. They generally -have corridors, under which are the sidewalks. The plaza is large and the streets are narrow. I am told that at the lowest state of the river the Santa Lucia has four feet of water from here to the Parana, with a current of one and a half knots. The water is clear and limpid, but is said to be a little brackish when the river is low. " The commandante told me that about three months past cir- culars were issued to all the commandantes, that in case of a visit from Captain Page they were to do all in their power to forward his views." From San Koque Mr. Murdaugh returned to Bella Yista. He found the country between the two places 'very much intersected by lagoons, the road for miles in extent being six inches under water. There was very little cultivation, and it is altogether a desolate portion of the province. He says : V Just before dark, the postillion got so far ahead that I lost sight of him, and for an hour was floundering about in the high grass and water by myself, under the expectation of seeing my horse give out at any moment. But a"s there was no dry spot, I determined to ride him till he fell, and theft lie upon him until he should get up again ; or, should he lie so long, until daylight. I blessed the Spanish race. Three hundred years have these peo- ple occupied the country, and not one hand's turn have they done toward making a road. . I managed to get out, fortunately, where the postillion was waiting for me/ My remaining wrath was ex- pended on him. We reached Bella Yista at 9 P.M. " From this place to Goya a distance of 54 miles the country presented the same aspect : flat elevations (lomas), here and there a house, with half an acre under cultivation with corn, a little to- bacco, and a few pumpkin vines, and no trees save a few umbus. The post-horses were wretched. I -hired better ones from the master of the post. At 49 miles reached the town of Santa Lucia, about seven miles north of the river of the same name. It is one of the old Jesuit establishments, and has the best church I have seen in the province. Five leagues to Goya; hired good horses and a vaqueano at seven paper dollars ($1 60). In crossing the Santa Lucia Eiver (75 yards wide, current 1-J- knots) the water was up to the horses' backs. Two and a half leagues to Goya ; land level, with espinilla growth. GOVERNOR PUJOL. 293 u Goya is a thriving place. It is rapidly overhauling Corrientes and will soon be ahead of it. A large quantity of cheese and many hides are shipped from here for Buenos Ayres and Monte- video. Through it the back country to the Uruguay is supplied with all its necessaries. Many houses are better than those of the capital, and there is an air of life and activity that is refreshing in such a backwood country. " Yisite'd the governor, Senor Don Juan Pujol, who is spending a few days here in his tour of the province. He is a man of easy and pleasing manners, arid is agreeable in conversation. " The Eincon de Soto, a commanding promontory just above the mouth of the Biver Santa Lucia and on the Parana, is the lo- cation selected by the governor for the establishment of the colo- ny of French immigrants who are expected to arrive soon at Montevideo. " On Christmas eve we went at midnight with two senoritas to the ' Mass of the Cocks' (Mesa da las Gallds), and on Christmas night we attended the Club Ball, where we saw many very pretty girls, of graceful manners and dressed in good taste. " Having accepted the invitation of the governor to accompany him in his tour, at least so far as across the province to the Uru- guay, we took our seats in his galera. In this omnibus-like equi- page were four of us inside the governor, his secretary, Johnny Page, and myself. We were drawn by six horses mounted by gauchos, with attendants on horseback. "We numbered four offi- cers, two clerks, thirty-six soldiers, and three servants. Off we dashed at half speed, trumpets sounding, sabres clashing, ladies waving their adieus from windows and balconies. Each soldier carries a carbine, sword, cartridge-box with twenty rounds, a valise, and any quantity of nick-nacks useful on a journey. At two. leagues from Goya we left the low flat lands and entered upon the lomas, with lagoons and palms. Stopping for siesta at the estancia of Don Jose Fernandez, we partook of a beautifully pro- vided dinner, which was concluded with a draft upon the gover- nor's cake and wine from the locker of the galera. The soldiers soon had a fat bullock converted into asados, round a blazing fire, each one laying in store a ration for supper, which was strung under the neck of his horse. " We moved on after the refreshments of dinner and siesta, and, passing through a park-like country of palms, covered with fine fat cattle that had kept the grass short, we were overtaken at a 294 RIDE WITH THE GOVERNOR. rancho by a heavy rain. Here we stopped for the night. The governor and secretary took the rancho, running the risk of being not 'a little annoyed; the two clerks took a covered cart, while Johnny and myself occupied the galera. Each soldier, having picketed his horse, procured a dry hide, and, bending it into a roof-like shape, crawled in for protection from the rain. " We started early in the morning, and soon reached Corrientes Eiver, over which, from its depth, we were obliged to swim the horses, and transport the galera on canoes. Trunks of palms were passed under it, resting across two canoes, one on either side. Three horses, made fast to it by 'lassos' from their tails, were started for the opposite shore by about twenty soldiers, who, swimming and shouting, kept them in the proper direction. The river here the Santilan Pass is about ' two hundred yards wide, with. a current of two- knots. The country in the immediate vi- cinity of the river is like an immense sweet-potato patch, of ant- hills from two to three feet in height, which greatly impeded our progress. It was necessary to level them for the galera to pass. This required the use of the pick axe, so hard and well-constructed are these dwellings of the ant. "Passing this ' Malisal,' we got upon a fine rolling country, in- tersected by arroyos and skirted by espinillas. The soil is dark and riah. The grass here, called flechilla, is short, with a stem bearing seed similar to oats. The governor says that for cattle it is superior to the alfalfa, and, judging from the appearance of the animals, nothing can be better. This grass extends to the Uru- guay. It is not found west of the Corrientes, nor in Paraguay. I regretted that it was not the season of bearing seed. The gov- ernor promised to have some of it gathered for our collection." There is a gradual elevation of the land from the Corrientes to Curuzu Quatia, from whence it gently descends again to the Uru- guay. This is certainly the most valuable part of the province ; but, like most others, it is better adapted to grazing than cultiva- tion. There are, however, wide fields of fine lands open to both. Cattle are now selling at $10 the head, and horses, equal to any in South America, at $16 for the best. Very favorite animals at times sell for as much as $30. Mares are valued only for their hides and tallow, and sell at about fifty cents per head. We found rich milk through the country, but it is used only for making- cheese. Mr. Murdaugh speaks of the quality of beef as being su- perior to any he has eaten in South America. PARTING WITH THE GOVERNOR. 295 " Soldiers had been sent on ahead ; and on our arrival at the posta we found a fat beeve stripped of his hide, and ready for the asado. On the arrival of the galera the troops form a'line to re- ceive the governor as he alights ; and at the sound of the trumpet each man dismounts, and in the shortest time imaginable his horse is divested of his trappings, and let loose. Four men at a time enter a well-stocked corral, and each man lassos his horse, and pickets him outside to be ready for the morning. The* soldiers then collect in groups, light fires, prepare the asados, and arrange the beds out of the various parts belonging to the recado. All this, mingled with neighing of the liberated horses, the clatter of those in the corral, and the shouts of the men, presents a lively and exciting scene, to the enjoyment of which the savory odor of the asado adds not a little. " We reached Curuzu Quatia in the afternoon at 4 P.M., near which the governor was met by all the principal men of the place, and escorted into town under salvos of fire-crackers, rock- ets, ringing of bells, etc. Curuzu Quatia is one of the oldest Jesuit stations. It has been several times destroyed during the civil wars, and now contains not more than two hundred inhabi- tants. " Finding that the governor will be detained here longer than he anticipated I shall be constrained to leave him, and shall return to the capital, coasting a short distance along the Uruguay, leav- ing Johnny,* at the earnest solicitation of the governor, who has taken a great fancy to him. How far in advance of his country- men generally is the governor ! He is a liberal, intelligent gen- tleman. His politeness and kindness during our short journey together will not soon be forgotten. He has ordered a soldier to accompany me, with letters to the different commandantes on the route, and orders that I shall be furnished with the best horses. " Set out January 1st, 1855, for Eestauracion, via Santa Ana, At ten leagues crossed the Eiver Mirinay, a tributary of the Uru- guay, and taking its rise in the Lake Ibira, Its depth is four feet, width twenty -five yards, current 1J knots. The country passed through very much the same. At sunset stopped at the estancia of Mr. Bonpland the former companion and friend of Humboldt * The governor's kindness to my son was truly paternal ; he presented him with a horse, and, while indulging him in every roguish amusement, made him write Spanish daily. When he returned, after an absence of some weeks, it was under the protection of a soldier ; and they made on horseback seventy- five miles in one day ; quite a ride for a boy of thirteen, who complained of no fatigue. 296 RESTAURACION. MR. BONPLAND, and was warmly welcomed by him. The governor had given me a letter to him. His conversation was exceedingly interesting. He talked much of the great Humboldt and his travels. His age is eighty -two, but he is still active ; will mount a horse, and ride twelve to fourteen leagues a day ; but says he does not now gal- lop. He has a house full of children by a native wife ; possesses two estancias one near San Boja, in Brazil, well stocked with cattle and sheep. He takes great care of his garden, in which he has growing some little of almost every thing, even to the tea plant. The soil is light. Cotton, he says, is not worth cultivat- ing on the Uruguay; neither is the land east of the Corrientes River adapted to it. His Irish potatoes are very good. His house is situated about one mile from the right bank of the Uruguay. "He accompanied me as far as the little river Santa Ana, on my way to Restauracion. He had received Captain Page's invi- tation, and expressed a strong desire to be with us in an explora- tion of the Upper Parana. " Restauracion is a thriving little town of 500 inhabitants, situ- ated on the right bank of the Uruguay, which at this point is about one mile wide, six to eight feet deep, current 1J knots, banks sixty feet high. At the season of high water hides and yerba are shipped to Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, and merchan- dise is brought up in return, for the northeast part of the prov- ince. The fall (salto) between this place and Concordia, below, can be passed only at high water. There are a -number of vessels waiting for the rise, for which there seems to be no invariable period. "Just opposite is the town of Uruguay ana in Brazil, containing about 1500 souls. The houses are well built, very superior to those in Restauracion. It is apparently a growing place. Wish- ing to recross the river, I was stopped by the custom-house offi- cers, and told that it was after the hour when communication with the other side was allowed. On going to the commandante and collector they both promptly issued permission for me to cross. "On my return to the capital, from which this place is eighty leagues, I took the route through the little village of Mercedes of 150 souls. Crossed the Mirinay ; depth 2 J feet, rocky, current strong. Made 72 miles horses bad; and passed through San Roque, Saladas, and Capilla del Senor, where I entered the road already traveled. The Rio Corrientes, where I crossed it, was deep, with about a two-knot current. LETTER FROM BONPLAND. 297 " The country through which I had passed from Eestauracion to San Koque is very much, the same as that already spoken of between Goya and Curuzu Quatia." On reference to the map the route taken by Lieutenant Mur- daugh will be seen. It was so directed as to embrace different sections of the province, and give a comprehensive idea as to their agricultural and pastoral resources. It* will be observed that Mr. Murdaugh alludes to my invitation to Bonpland, whose presence as a member of our party would have been a pleasure, and a great privilege. I thought he would feel some interest in participating in our explorations, and ad- dressed a letter asking him to join us, and go over again for a time the life of his early days. He now (January, 1855,) accepted the invitation; and we should have had the benefit and enjoy- ment of his company but for the occurrences that arrested our work on the Parana. Driven out of Paraguay by the Dictator Francia for it could not be regarded as a release Mr. Bonpland continued to reside in La Plata ; and, being now over eighty, will probably never leave the country. I subjoin a translation of Mr. Bonpland's letter in reply to my invitation to. him to join our party in the exploration of the Pa- rana. " Santa Ana, January 2d, 1855. " To TH. J. PAGE, Commander of the Steamer Water Witch : " SIR, I must appear very culpable in your eyes for not having before answered the letter you did me the honor to write to me from the town of Concepcion, November, 1853. Permit me, then, to state some circum- stances which will lessen my culpability. " I must first thank you for your obliging offers ; they are in consonance with my wishes, and I had firmly resolved to accept them, when I left for Montevideo, where I was obliged to remain for a few days. On my return to San Boja I intended to proceed to Paraguay, and avail myself of your polite invitation, as well as your agreeable society, and that of the officers who accompany you. "While engaged in preparation for my journey a report reached me that you were not in Paraguay, ard that the Water Witch was commanded by another naval officer. " You will see in these few words, Captain, the cause of my silence, and the suspension of my journey to Paraguay. "Yesterday evening I was agreeably surprised by Mr. William Henry Murdaugh, who honored me by a visit at my humble cottage. I am now 298 FRANCIA AND BONPLAND. certain that you command the Water Witch, and that you propose to ascend the Parana, for which reasons I hasten to address you these lines. " From your invitation and the conversation I have had with Mr. Mur- daugh I am going to ask the consent of his Excellency, Governor Pujol, to accompany you in the Parana, and if, as I hope, he shares my opinion, I will hasten to notify you, and ask beforehand if it will be agreeable to you. During fifteen years I have had in my service an Indian of the Gruayana tribe, who has ascended the Parana above ' Corpus,' and with your consent he will accompany me, and he will perhaps be found of some assistance. He is a reliable Indian, faithful, honest, and possessed of good qualities. If I should be so happy as to accompany you, we will, I hope, be able to make some useful collections for the museum of your inimitable country. " I have the honor to salute you, Captain, and beg you to accept the as- surance of my respect. " Your obliged and devoted servant, AMAD13 BONPLAND." Bonpland's association with Humboldt in his travels, and his detention in Paraguay, are facts known -to the whole scientific world. Sir Woodbine Parrish mentions that, upon his arrival at Buenos Ay res, jn 1824, in applying to Francia for the release of British detenues, he also interested himself in behalf of foreigners whose governments were unrepresented in La Plata. Among them were Eengger and Longchamp, but above all, Bonpland, who, when residing in an Argentine state, pursuing his botanic studies, had been seized and carried off a prisoner by an armed force sent for that purpose across the Parana. He was residing within the ter- ritory of a state at peace with Paraguay ; but he was cultivating the yerba. This was a grievous offense to the dictator, who re- garded the South American tea as his peculiar monopoly. After a time the naturalist was kept as a prisoner at large; that is, restricted to a few leagues around the town of Santa Ma- ria, where, with the philosophy of the French character, and un- daunted by misfortune, he employed himself so actively, useful- ly, and acceptably to the simple Paraguayans, whose condition he endeavored to improve and ameliorate, that he at last excited the distrust and envy of the dictator, who sent him out of the country, as summarily as he had been made a prisoner, after a de- tention of nine years. Mr. Grandsire, the special agent of the In- stitute of France, and the British charge d'affaires, had previously in vain sought to effect his release. An order finally came from Asuncion to the commandante of Santa Maria to remove him ; and CORRIENTES. 299 on the same night he was placed in a canoe, paddled across the Pa- rana to Corrientes, and there left, with nothing but a few clothes. We find that he is again, at the ripe old age of 82, actively en- gaged in agricultural pursuits in Corrientes, with a Spanish Amer- ican wife, and a large family of children. Though the territory of Corrientes comprises an extent, from north to south, of nearly five hundred miles, with more or less width from east to west, its population, inclusive of that of the capital, which has from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants, does not probably exceed fifty thousand souls. It is intersected by several navigable rivers, and has a large number of lakes. Its lowlands, as well as the lomas, are highly fertile. The city of Corrientes, one of the oldest of La Plata, founded in 1588, soon after the settlements of Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe, is admirably placed near the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, and about seventy miles below the mouth of the Yer- mejo. It is the principal market of the Chaco Indians for furs.' In addition to the resources of the province, which would un- doubtedly be great under an improved system of culture, it has, by the rivers, a communication with the eastern and western shores of Paraguay and the western borders of Brazil ; by the Yer- mejo with Bolivia ; and again south by Buenos Ayres, its Atlantic outlet. The men are great horsemen, active and temperate, but disinclined to work. Inducements are held out to immigration ;* and, under the present Constitution and the stimulus to trade pro- duced by the opening of the rivers, it offers an admirable field for enterprise and industry. This province has suffered greatly from the civil wars that have distracted the country, and the decrease of cattle is enormous. In every direction we noted the marks of abandoned estancias, possessing an adaptability for grazing and agriculture apparent to the most casual observer. "With careful culture, the tobacco will probably prove, in quan- tity and quality, quite equal to that of Paraguay, and with the introduction of agricultural implements, both cotton and sugar may be grown with success. Indigo and cochineal have been ex- ported in small quantities, and a new species of the former, called "yuzo," was some years since made known by Bonpland as an article that might become very valuable as an export. I have alluded to the silk of a small black spider, a specimen of which I collected from a hedge and brought home with me. Bonpland * See Appendix G. 300 LAGOON OF YBERA. sent some of it to France, where it was pronounced unfit for man- ufacturing purposes ; but the cocoons of another spider, some of which I also brought home, are, from their appearance, undoubt- edly equal to those of the silk-worm, which they resemble in form and size. They are spun upon the orange-trees, and are exactly the color of its ripe fruit. As an experiment, coffee has been cultivated, with success. I have alluded to the orange-groves. The fruit is not equal to that of Paraguay, but no product finds a readier sale. Parts of the province are well timbered, and the bark of the curupay is con- sidered in valuable, in tanning. Under the present system, hides, tobacco, -timber, for Buenos Ayres, and wool, may be considered the staples. The most extraordinary physical feature of this province is the Lagoon of Ybera, which I regretted that I was unable to examine. According to Azara, it is fed by filtration from the Parana ; and yet is itself the source of four considerable rivers the Mirinay, which flows into the Uruguay, the Santa Lucia, the Bateles, and Corrientes, which disembogue into the Parana. There are parts of it, inaccessible either to boats or horsemen, that are covered with aquatic plants, and even considerable trees. It was Azara's opin- ion that the Parana itself once coursed through this lake, and that it will, in the course of ages, resume its ancient channel. It is difficult to explain the origin of the name ybera (brilliant water),* handed down among the Guarani race from the remotest ages, before the Conquest. Some convulsion of nature may have brought to its present marshy state what was once a beautiful ex- panse of water ; or, probably, y-bera may yet be applied in no in- appropriate sense to its unexplored interior. D'Orbigny, under extraordinary difficulties, though at a dry period, forced a pas- sage some distance into this lagoon. So far as his experience went, he discovered it to be not so much one 'monotonous and ex- tended marsh as a succession of lagoons, two or three miles in width, which seemed to have a uniformity of direction, and so confirmed, in some degree, the suppositions of Azara. The depth of water, though varying, was at no time very great, until reach- ing what was supposed to be the heart of the lake. What lies beyond has always been with the Indians a fruitful subject of su- perstition and marvel. * y__ "water;" bera "brilliant." DINNER AT CORRIENTES. 3Q1 CHAPTEK XVII. The Dinner at Corrientes. The Address. Toasts and Wine. A Cargo of Lum- ber. The Saladero. The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana. Sudden Keturn of Lieutenant Jeffers. The Steamer run aground by the Pilot. Fired into from the Fort, killing the Helmsman. -False Claims of President Lopez to the Channel. Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of Paraguay. Affection for the Salto Grande. Dispatch to our Government. Its Contents refuted. Return to Buenos Ayres. Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Rio. Arrival of the Savannah. Indecision of the Commodore. Refusal to grant the Guns. United States Legation versus United States Squadron. What should have been done. Dispatch from Senor Vasquez. The Commodore im- pressed with the Fact of the Parana containing sufficient Depth of Water to ad- mit a Sloop of War. SOME of the crew asked permission to give a dinner to their foreign friends, principally the carpenters of Corrientes who had been engaged in the repairs of the small steamer. The request was of course granted, and a busier, happier set of souls can not be imagined than they were in their preparations for this feast. Pantry and stores were thrown open to them, but the best table- cloth the steward could produce was not equal to the dimensions of their table, which was set in the patio of the house we occu- pied, and made of planking designed for the repairs of the Pilco- mayo ; but some yards of bleached cotton supplied the deficiency, and the purchase of a few glasses, added to our stock, completed the preparations. By their own arrangement nothing stronger than wine was allowed, and a bottle or two from my nearly ex- hausted supply was sent, with a message that it was from "home," for none like sailors on foreign stations realize the magic of that word. An awning, which extended over nearly the whole patio, excluded the sun, and, with the assistance of our steward and cook, a substantial and excellent dinner was set out, not even lacking the elegant little adornments of grander occasions ; for there were many bouquets of the prettiest flowers to be found in the city of Corrientes ; and the American flag considered an in- dispensable decoration in all foreign entertainments was festoon- ed between the columns of the patio at one end of the table, while that of the Argentine Confederation graced the other. Toward the close of the dinner a deputation came and invited 302 PKOGKESS OF TKADE. me to look out upon the party in their enjoyment. I was in doubt as to the object of this call, but accepted the invitation, and found a chair ready for me at a little distance from the table. One of the company moved that Mr. Meredith should read the address. Mr. Meredith, a lad eighteen or nineteen years of age, from Baltimore, rose and from some sheets of foolscap read a speech, which would have been a little embarrassing for, like the President of Paraguay at the ball of the Chief Justice, I was obliged to listen to my own praises had I not been so much as- tonished at its admirable phraseology and style. I expressed gratification at seeing them thus rationally enjoying themselves, and retired. Then followed songs, toasts, and sentiments, which were unsparingly served out with wine and cigars. On similar occasions in "high life," the "proprieties" could not have been more strictly observed ; and there were " sentiments" indicative of good sense, wit, and intelligence, sometimes lacking at such festivities. These men had been under my command for nearly two years, without a death or casualty. Some had been confided to me as "hard cases" by tearful mothers, who had always known a grace- less " Hal" or " Bill" to mislead their Jack, who " had a good heart, but would be led astray;" and a "man-of-war" is consid- ered an asylum for all such. But I must do them the justice to say that the conduct of this crew had been highly creditable, and to the- end of the cruise three years and five months with one or two exceptions, all that could be desired. The arrival of the Water Witch from Montevideo now expe- dited my movements. On board of her was Lieutenant Jeffers, who, on application to join the expedition, had been ordered by Commodore Salter to report to me. One fact I must notice, to mark the progress of trade since the opening of the rivers. A vessel of the country arrived with a small lot of American pine boards and scantling, which was sold at 12J- cents the foot the price I paid both here and at Asun- cion per yard for sawing plank of native woods. This lumber had been shipped to Buenos Ayres from the United States, dis- posed of, purchased again, and re-shipped to Corrientes, where it sold for less than native lumber, paying at each change of hands a reasonable percentage. And yet timber is one of the export articles of this Province. Quebracho sells here, in stocks of eight inches square, at 75 cents to 87 cents the vara, or 25 to 29 cents THE SALADERO. 303 the foot. The operations of a steam saw-mill, nearly completed by an enterprising Frenchman, will do away with the old whip- saws now lining the beach. I visited the saladero (slaughter-house) of an Englishman, which was just opened near the city, on the banks of the Parana, to witness the operation of converting cattle into jerked beef, hides, and tallow. Each animal is brought up to the " bull-ring" by the lasso, pierced at the back of the head by a sharp-pointed knife, and rolled off on a rail-car, to be skinned. The corral was large and well stocked, Mr. Hughes having a few days before purchased from the southern part of the province a fine lot of cattle, for which he paid $9 the head, a threefold increase in price within a few years. In the Buenos Ayres market the hides were worth $6 50 each ; the jerked beef about 200 Ibs. to the animal $12 ; and the tallow from 25 to 50 Ibs. about $3 ; the latter, intes- tines, bones, head, and feet, are thrown into immense wooden vats, and subjected for some time to steam pressure, which ex- tracts nearly every particle of grease ; it is then drawn off clean and put in hogsheads ready for shipping. The refuse of the vats is used for fuel. On the 30th of January, the Taquari, a Paraguay steamer, half man-of-war, and half merchantman, with an armament of five medium 32-pounders, arrived at Corrientes ; she received from the Water Witch' the usual official visit and offer of service. This vessel was built in England, and purchased by General Lo- pez, son of the President, who had been on a general mission to several of the European Courts, and was now on his return to Asuncion, having crossed the Atlantic in her. Hoping that the alterations in the small steamer would make her suitable for the exploration of the Salado, and intending to form there two parties, I detailed for the service all the surveying officers, with the exception of Lieutenant Jeffers. He was left in charge of the Water Witch, with instructions to ascend the Para- na so far as the island Apipe, a distance of over one hundred miles from its juncture .with the Paraguay, at which point there were supposed to be rapids the first obstruction met with from the Capes of La Plata. Lieutenant Jeffers was instructed to de- termine their character. This short work, of a hundred miles or more, I felt assured could be accomplished before my return. With Lieutenants Powell, Murdaugh, and Henry, Assistant 304 ATTACK UPON THE WATER WITCH. Surgeon Carter, Assistant Engineer Stump, and eighteen men, I left Corrientes on the 31st of January, 1855, for the Salado, ex- pecting to encounter, from all I could learn, numerous inhospi- table and daring bands of Indians. The performance of the Pilco- mayo was miserable worse than before the alterations were made in her. She was, in fact, worthless. This I had feared, and con- sidered possible, and, as a reserve for surveying purposes, I had in tow two metallic boats. But I was not prepared for the new troubles that were brewing. The vials of President Lopez were not exhausted. On the 3d of February, when we were about two hundred miles below Corrientes, the Water Witch hove in sight. What could be the matter? Speculation ran wild in our little boat. The suspense was soon over. The Water Witch had been stopped in her ascent of the Pa- rana ; fired into from the Fort of Itapiru ; the man at the helm killed, and the steamer slightly damaged in her hull. My feel- ings may be imagined at this outrage to our flag, while borne by a vessel under my command ; for absence from her made me not less sensible to the insult. In a few words the tale was told. For a particular account of it, I append Lieutenant JefFers's official report.* The steamer had a native pilot on board, who was as well ac- quainted with the river as the wood-cutters of Apipe, or the orange-dealers along the shores of Corrientes usually are. Lieu- tenant JefFers had advanced but a short distance above the junc- tion of the Parana and Paraguay, plotting the work as he pro- gressed, when, from very deep water, the vessel was run upon a sand-bank in six feet water, the lead at the gangway indicating no material change in the depth. While in the act of getting the steamer afloat, a boat came alongside from a fort on the Paraguay shore, where was a flag-staff, but no flag flying, and presented a paper to Lieutenant Jeffers, who returned it to the messenger, in- forming him that he did not read Spanish. This, with the sub- stitution of the word "Spanish" for " English," was President Lopez's reply to my communication in behalf of Americans in Asuncion. He observed some bustle and activity at the fort, and, to be prepared for any emergency, put the vessel in the best state of defense he could, but scarcely admitting even to himself the pos- sibility of attack. * See Appendix IT. ATTACK UPON THE WATER WITCH. 3Q7 She was got afloat, and on asking the pilot where lay the chan- nel, he unhesitatingly said that it was near the Paraguay shore ; but he had supposed the river high enough to enable the Water Witch to pass over the shoals near the left bank, and made the attempt without informing the commanding officer. The pilot, like many other Argentines of the same class, looked upon Paraguay as a semi-civilized country, and was anxious to put a great distance between the Water Witch and Fort Itapiru. He was ordered to change the course of the vessel, and the nature of the work was again intelligibly explained to him, that he might understand the importance of keeping her in mid-channel, regard- less of its vicinity to the Paraguay shore, or whether or not there was water enough outside of it. I beg to call especial attention to the two drawings of the river at this point the fancy sketch sent by President Lopez to our government and one from the actual survey. I do not hesitate to assert that they never, would be recognized as representing the same locality. When the Water Witch was within close shot, two or three blank cartridges were fired from the fort in quick succession, followed by a shot. At what part of the vessel it was aimed I can only judge from President Lopez's dispatch to our State Department, where he magnanimously says it was directed so as to "pass ahead." If so, it struck wide of the mark, and was unfortunately effective ; for it passed through the after port, cut away the wheel, and killed the helmsman. Lieutenant Jeffers had disregarded the blank cartridges, and up to this time had withheld his fire. Indeed, his means of defense, with three how- itzers one 24-pounder and two 12-pounders were small against a brick or stone fort. But when this shot came, he returned it as rapidly as the reduced number of officers and crew and the dis- abled condition of the helm would admit. The accuracy of the fire was seen in cutting away the flag-staff and in the shrapnell grazing the low wall ; for the guns were mounted en barbette. We learned afterward that several Paraguayans were killed ; some reports said eleven, others fifteen. The Water Witch was struck ten times, but the first was the only shot that did any execution, though we learned that the firing from the fort was directed by a person formerly of the French navy, who had entered the service of Paraguay. The pilot, very much alarmed, ran below ; and during the shipping of the spare tiller the steamer drifted with the current 308 TRUE AND FANCY SKETCHES. to the edge of the narrow channel into ten feet water. When hauled upon deck, he declared she would be aground if the at- tempt to proceed were persevered in, and insisted upon backing her down. She had by this time passed all but one of the six guns, and would soon have been out of range, but, in backing, was again exposed to the fire of the fort. My first feeling of regret was that I had, not, with the full com- plement of officers and crew, undertaken this corner of the work. Had it been so, this affair would never have taken place ; for the detachment of officers and men from the Water Witch was doubtless as well known in Paraguay as to myself, and this hos- tile proceeding explained what had, I confess, claimed but a passing notice. For a day or two before our departure, a small Paraguay boat had been hovering about Corrientes, and as the Pilcomayo steamed off, this little craft passed close to us, and pulled rapidly up the river. She was doubtless a spy, and gave immediate information as to the division of our party. That this outrage may appear in its true light, it must be borne in mind that the decree of the 3d of October, 1854, can not pos- sibly be made to include those waters in which the Water Witch was when she was fired into. Indeed, no part of the Eiver Pa- rana is exclusively under the jurisdiction of Paraguay ; and up to the fort Itapiru, and for one or two hundred miles beyond, that river is the common boundary between the Argentine Confedera- tion (on the northern border of Corrientes) and Paraguay. The insult in itself is one that can not be tolerated ; it is, however, eclipsed by the fraud which President Lopez attempts to impose upon the public through the columns of the Semmario, but, above all, in a dispatch to the United States government, inclosing a fancy sketch of the river, fort, and environs, representing the shots fired in defense by the Water Witch, after her helmsman was killed, as a hostile movement against the fort, and gravely re- quests that the officers in charge may be u severely punished." On the opposite page is a reduced copy of this sketch made by the order of President Lopez, and a true sketch of the Eiver Parana, near the mouth of the Paraguay, from the chart of the Water Witch. The " fancy sketch" here offered is doubtless the work of a foreigner ; for there is, I presume, not a native capable of making such a one, either from a survey or dictation ; it was probably drawn by the ordnance officer of Itapiru, who, however FANCY AND TRUE SKETCH. 309 El Canal esclusivo del Campamento general del Passo de la Patna > pertenece de costa a costa a la Repubhca, y cubre el Campamento, su ^ transito estd prohebido aun a los Buques mercantes Nactonales. 310 JURISDICTION OF THE PAEANA. skillful he may be in directing shot, shows that he knows little of hydrographic surveys. The President did not care to represent Nature's work, but to illustrate an Idea ; and from his office, far removed from the scene, he dictated to the pliant draughtsman a drawing of a winding river, in which he was directed to intro- duce certain banks and shoals, until the " fancy sketch" repre- sented a locality to suit the "Idea" he intended to present to the United States. But his Excellency, though an admirable diplo- matist, is unfortunately as ignorant as his draughtsman of the first principles of hydrography. He neglects to put down the soundings, to run the line of the Water "Witch aground on sand- banks instead of ending it in water of unknown depth, or to show how he has arrived at the peculiar obstructions of the Pa- rana at that part of its course. In continuing the exploration of that river, I do not suppose the idea had ever suggested itself to any human being out of Para- guay that the Water Witch would meet with the least opposition. However defiant the policy of that government to neighboring powers, even in Corrientes, it was not suspected of the monstrous pretension of controlling exclusively the navigation of the Parana. Our expedition had not only the sympathy of the Argentine Con- federation, which claims concurrent jurisdiction over it, but I had a circular from General Urquiza to all persons in authority, di- recting them to offer me every facility in prosecuting the work ; and from Senor Pujol, the governor of Corrientes, I had received only the day before my departure, expressions of deep interest in our labors, and the anxious hope that the exploration would de- velop a channel practicable for all purposes of commerce, with- out making the slightest reference to the decree of October 3d, or to the possibility of Paraguayan interference. As I had, then, the full permission of the Argentine States to explore her waters, and the Parana was established and recognized as the common boundary between their territory and Paraguay, up to and beyond the Falls of Apipe, the propriety of my course in ordering a party from the expedition there will not admit of question. I had on former occasions repeated conversations with President Lopez relative to our contemplated explorations in that quarter, but he never let drop the semblance of pretension to control or prohibit its navigation. He did on one occasion congratulate "the Bepublic" (for he is fond of using that word in speaking of Para- PRESIDENT LOPEZ'S ACCOUNT. guay) that the "Salto Grande" (Falls of Guayra) was an insur- mountable obstruction to the navigation of the river; and, as it- was the first time that I had ever heard the idea advanced that an insurmountable obstacle to the navigation of a great river was a national blessing designed by Heaven, it made an impression upon me. I knew that he alluded to the much-feared encroach- ments of " Los Portugases," and looked to the Salto Grande as a bulwark against all attacks from that quarter. As he does not presume to assert any entire jurisdiction over the river, it will naturally be asked on what grounds does he jus- tify his act of firing into the Water Witch ; for he admits that it was by his orders to the commander of Itapiru. He says in his dispatch to our government, and in his message to the Congress of Paraguay, " The Water Witch ascended the Parana by the channel that is common to the Republic and the Argentine Confederation ; but, having stopped al- most in front of Fort Itapiru, the commander observed that from that point the Americans seemed occupied in taking some measurements, and then pro- ceeded on, through the same common channel, to beyond the general en- campment at the Paso de la Patria, and nearly to the upper point of the Island ' Ceraya,' whence she returned through the same channel, passing below Itapiru, and, turning the point of the south bank, which here exists, took that which leads directly by the Fort Itapiru to the port of the gen- eral encampment," etc.* This explanation answered his purpose perfectly in Paraguay, for he wished to prove that the Water Witch was seeking the Fort Itapiru, and not the main channel of the river ; that she was bound on a fighting, and not an exploring expedition ; but he should have made out a stronger case ; should have added a few more operations it matters not what to complete the romance. His after-mistake was a great one, in repeating the same state- ments to the Government of the United States. It is needless to explain that the value of a survey depends * Extract from President Lopez's Message, 14th March, 1857. "El 1 de Febrero de 1855, predicho Vapor Water Witch subio al Parana por el Canal comun de la Republica y de la Confederacion Argentina, pqro habiendose detenido casi en fronte de la fortaleza de Itapiru, observa el Commandante de ese puerto quo los Americanos paracien ocuparse en tomar algunas dimenciones, y lue- go seguieron por el mismo canal comun hasta mas ariba del campamento general del paso de la Patria, y casi hasta la punta superior de la Isla de Carya, de donde vulvio a bajar por el mismo canaliiasta mas abajo de Itapiru, y volviendo la punta de arena del banco qui alii existe, tomo el que conduce por la misma fortaleza de Itapiru al puerto del espresado campamento gcnoral." 312 ATTEMPTED JUSTIFICATION. upon its accuracy, and the course, depth, current of the Parana channel could alone be determined by the Water Witch's enter- ing it. She had a pilot who attempted to pass up near the Cor- rientes shore, in what President Lopez designates as the Canal Comun ( u Common Channel"), and there ran aground. Is it rea- sonable to suppose that, had there been a channel on that side, the frightened pilot would have sought the other, of which he seems to have had a great dread? and when asked " where lay the main channel," would he immediately have pointed to that which led to the " General Encampment," instead of the Canal Comun? Suppose there had been more than one channel and the pilot, who should have known, said there was not, for he certainly made the effort to find another way how would this have justi- fied the attack ? If the river is a common highway for the two countries, the whole of it is common throughout the extent of the territories. It is not a highway if President Lopez appropriate the available channel, where alone a vessel can pass up, and say, " You shall not come on my side of the river." As to the actual course and distance made by the Water Witch, the accompanying " real sketch" will show ; and until informed upon what data President Lopez constructed his chart, or until he produces the observations made by his surveyor on shore, to determine the track of the Water Witch, and establish beyond doubt the superior accuracy of his work to ours by a fair com- parison, I must pronounce one a " fancy sketch," the other a re- liable piece of " track survey." The President of Paraguay was evidently alarmed in anticipa- tion of retaliation for this insult, and thundered forth in his little weekly organ, the Seminario. Its articles, intended to impose upon the credulity of Paraguayans, generally excite much amuse- ment in La Plata. Personal attacks upon myself the burden of its editorials since the removal of the Americans I did not notice, for I rather suspected that his Excellency wished to draw me into a paper war. But when, awakened to a sense of the enormity of his act, as one utterly in defiance of the law of na- tions, he attempted its justification by boldly claiming jurisdic- tion over the main channel of the Parana because it ran near his shores, and when he endeavored to make it appear that the Water Witch, in entering it, had violated a national right, I de- termined to expose this evasion or misinterpretation of every principle of international law, and in one of the leading papers THE LAW OF NATIONS. 313 of Buenos Ayres gave a statement of the position of the steamer when fired upon, and quoted fully from Wheaton on the "Law of Nations." From my references in that article, I here insert one paragraph to show the extent to which rights under a com- mon boundary are very fully recognized. " It was a principle that the right to a thing gives a right to the means without which it could not be used ; that is to say, that the means follow the end. Thus a right to navigate a river draws to it a right to moor ves- sels to its shores, to land on them in cases of distress, or for other necessary purposes, etc., etc. This principle was founded in natural reason, was evi- denced by the common rule of mankind, and declared by the writers before quoted."* P. 351. I have stated that I was overtaken by the Water Witch two hundred miles below Corrientes. The information she brought disturbed all my plans for the immediate exploration of the Sala- do, for I could not rest quietly under this insult to our national honor ; and as the steamer was slightly disabled, and her arma- ment not such as could enable me to act effectively and surely against a fort of six guns, I determined to proceed to Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, in the hope of procuring from a ship of our squadron two large shell guns, which would enable me to return. On arriving at Parana, we found at anchor quite an imposing Brazilian squadron, consisting of eight steamers the Amazon, the admiral's flag-ship, three sloops of war, and eleven transports, bound for Paraguay. Such a demonstration from Brazil had been for some months anticipated, not only to settle the question of boundary, but to open a way, by the Paraguay, to Cuyaba. This mode of backing negotiation by a squadron is, it seems, not con- fined to England at this day ; and, however much it may be looked upon as an act to intimidate, it must be resorted to in dealing with governments that can not be reasoned into an observance of the rights of nations. I hastened to Buenos Ayres. A great disappointment awaited me : but three days before the Grermantown had sailed for Eio Ja- neiro. I had been buoyed up with the hope of meeting this par- ticular ship. Her commander, Captain Lynch, is an officer who would, I knew, fully sympathize with me in a sense of the outrage to our flag, and afford me every assistance in his power to avenge the wrong. I proceeded to Montevideo, and finding there an American clip- * The principal writers on national law. 314 PROPOSED RETALIATION. / per bound for Kio, dispatched Lieutenant Powell with a report of the affair to the commander of the squadron, Commodore W. D. Salter, and with an earnest appeal for aid. I begged that he would order the Germantown to Paraguay ;* and at the same time sent a report of the attack to the Secretary of the Navy and to the min- ister resident at Buenos Ayres.f On the 19th the Grermantown arrived off Montevideo, bound for Buenos Ayres, but with no satisfactory reply from the Commo- dore, except that he would sail soon for La Plata. I here quote from my journal : " 31st March, 1854. The Savannah, flag-ship, has arrived. I im- mediately visited the Commodore, and informed him I was ready, and the Water Witch was in order for any service he might de- sire of me (alluding to her towing the Germantown up the Para- na) ; or, if he had no other work for me, would proceed to the Uruguay. I still hoped there was more important service, for I was unwilling to believe that this outrage could long be suffered to go unnoticed. He desired me to remain for a few days, as he wished to confer with our resident minister at Buenos Ayres. " April 5th. Have had a conversation with the Commodore since my visit of the 31st, and urged the propriety of sending the Germantown up, towed by the Water Witch, to knock down Itapiru." Captain Lynch, in a noble, generous spirit, which I fully appre- ciate, had proposed to the Commodore to take the Germantown up, or relinquish the command of the ship to me for that pur- pose. " April 6th. Again called on the Commodore ; found him in close conversation with Mr. Peden as I supposed, about the Para- guay affair. I left immediately." " April Sth. Called again on the Commodore to know his de- termination about my towing up the Germantown. He said, ' I * Extract from report to Commodore Salter : " The Water Witch, with the Germantown or a brig in tow, will be amply suffi- cient to inflict such punishment on Paraguay as the insult demands not only knock down the fort, but capture the squadron also. Should additional steam power be required in towing, it can easily be obtained here. The more promptly this is done, the more easily and effectually it may be done. "I can not express to you how deeply I regret not finding either yourself or Cap- tain Lynch here. I shall proceed to take in coals, and have some slight repairs to the engine, hoping for your arrival meantime." t Mr. Pendleton had been recalled, and this place was filled by Mr. Peden, of Florida. ASSISTANCE REFUSED. can not move in this matter. The affair is referred to the gov- ernment, and I shall await instructions.' I then said, * Will you, Sir, supply the Water Witch with two large guns, either from the Savannah or the Germantown ? I desire to return and carry on the work, but I do not feel justified in doing so with the steamer in her present defenseless state. He said, l No, there are other fields for the expedition, and you had better not re- turn to that part of the river until instructions are received from home.' " The Commodore and minister have been in conference. It was a labor that brought forth nothing." This was to me a bitter disappointment and mortification. I clearly saw that the Commodore had assumed a responsibility in not acting of far greater magnitude than if he had pursued the most vigorous and decisive measures. It was evident to me that the responsibility lay in doing nothing. If a national vessel is fired into, unless the mistake is manifest, for the honor of the flag and the credit of her commander, the fire must be returned. The beautiful Christian precept of turning the left cheek when the right is smitten, is not observed, and per- haps not understood in national intercourse. If a man receives a blow, he rarely folds his arms and waits for explanation : he re- turns the blow ; and if in the wrong, he will discover it in proper time, and make amends. The fort of Itapiru ought to have been knocked down, and we should now be even with the Paraguay government. I beg- ged but for two guns, and I would have pledged my life in the effort. There were neither women, children, nor property of peaceful citizens or foreigners to be injured, or involve us in endless ne- gotiation for reclamation. It was a difficulty for the Commodore, and for him alone, to settle. A consultation with the minister was all well enough ; he is generally presumed to be a person of standing at home, and competent abroad to advise in such an emergency ; but confer- ences can never shift responsibility. The obligations and duties of a United States legation and a United States squadron are not blended, neither can they possibly conflict. Each is alone an- swerable to the government for a proper performance of its re- spective duties. To refer the matter home was an effectual way of getting rid 316. SHIFTING THE EESPONSIBILITY. of, or of indefinitely postponing it. There are extraordinary occa- sions, and I consider this one, where the authority of a commander on a foreign station exceeds even that of the Executive Department. He has the right, the power, and it is his duty to resent and avenge all and every outrage committed upon American vessels within the limits of his station. How much more must he feel the necessity of exercising this power when a vessel of his own squadron has been insulted. He is not merely to report occur- rences, and await answers, but is presumed to possess some natural ability some knowledge of the law of nations, and some sense of honor, blended with a discretion which will enable him to assume the responsibility of evident duty. Paraguay was not considered a territory occupied by wild In- dians, or as a den of pirates. "We had negotiated a treaty of friendship and commerce with her, and that treaty had been rati- fied by our Senate.* To order the Commodore to proceed there and chastise her would have been making war upon a republic recognized as belonging to the family of nations, and this is a power which the Executive does not possess. When the egre- gious mistake is made of supposing one's duty fully discharged by merely reporting outrages to the Department, we embarrass its movements. An officer can prevent this by avenging at the mo- ment all insults, without placing the Executive in the humiliating position of bearing them passively until an appeal can be made to Congress for powers to act. I have no desire to criticise or censure the course of the Com- modore, but it is due to myself and to the navy to make a full statement of this affair. Had the Water Witch been in error, which can not be sustained by the most specious arguments, how could it justify this insult to our flag? It is clear she meditated no attack, assumed no threatening attitude, and did not fire a gun until the evidence of a shot from the fort showed itself in cutting down one of her crew and carrying away her wheel. Was the officer in charge to sub- mit to this? It is no justification of the act to say that blank cartridges were fired and a message from the fort delivered along- side, for we do not recognize the right of Paraguay to control the explorations of that river. The prohibition of her President was> an unwarrantable assumption of power, and its enforcement by a shot, in every way that we can view it, a gross outrage. * The Paraguay government subsequently refused the exchange of ratification. OUR TRUE COURSE. I had taken some trouble to inform myself, from every available source, of the rights, exclusive and concurrent, over the naviga- tion of the rivers of La Plata, because I studiously designed to keep the expedition aloof from any semblance of interference in the differences of neighboring powers ; and it entered those wa- ters only where the jurisdiction of the government granting per- mission was unquestioned. I believe I understand President Lopez well enough to say that, had he received at the proper time a spirited rebuke, had Itapiru been knocked down or his squadron captured, we should now be on the best possible terms. He would not, a year later, have met our special commissioner on the threshold of his mission by demanding to be informed what resolution this government had made to give satisfaction for the outrages and hostilities commit- ted by the commander of the Water Witch, " in order to see if the case was such as to justify the exchange of ratification of the treaty of the 4th of March, 1853, and to this intent you will be pleased to reply to this note."* In an official dispatch to our Secretary of State, dated Asun- cion, November 29th, 1856, Senor Yasquez says : " His Excellency, President Lopez, will be found well disposed to renew the negotiation of a treaty of friendship, commerce, and navigation, so soon as his Excellency the President of the United States may desire to send to this city a Plenipotentiary with suitable instructions, which will afford an appropriate occasion to settle the questions I have cited to the Senor Com- missioner in my note of the 8th of this month." "f Again, in the correspondence of the Minister of Foreign Bela- tions, Senor Nicholas Yasquez, with our special commissioner, Mr. Kichard Fitzpatrick, under date Asuncion, November 26th, 1856: " His Excellency the President of the Republic ratified fully and com- pletely on the 12th of March, 1853, with the consent of his Council of * Extract of note from Secretary Vasquez to Commissioner Fitzpatrick, Novem- ber 8th, 1856 : " Para ver si es llegado el caso de verificar lisa y llanamente el cange de las ratificaciones del Tradado de 4 Marzo de 1853, y al efecto se servira U. S. respon- der a esta nota." t " Que S. E. se halla en la major disposicion de renovar la negociacion da un Tratado de amistad, commercio, y navigacion, desde que el Exmo. Senor Presi- dcnte de los Estados Unidos quiera enviar efecto a esta Ciudad un Plenipotencia- rio, con instrucciones convenientes ; y que contal oportunidad se podra definir las questiones pendientes que lie citado a S. S. en la citada nota des 8 de este mes." 318 PARAGUAYAN DISPATCHES. State, the treaty referred to of the 4th of March, as I explained to you at our official interview, and in this aspect it is not possible for his Excellency the President of the Kepublic to submit to a new ratification on the terms you propose ; and in this view of the question I inform you of the receipt of your note of the 18th, reaffirming mine of the 15th, and closing the cor- respondence."* I remained but a few days at Buenos Ayres, to obtain a verifi- cation of the chronometer before entering the Uruguay, but kept the Commodore advised by letter of the state of the Parana. I was enabled to show him that the river had continued to rise since I descended it in February, and at that time there was not less than sixteen feet of water over the worst passes. I was re- solved that he should entertain no doubts as to the practicability of having the Grermantown towed up from a want of water ; and in my last note to him from Buenos Ayres, dated April 20th, 1855, 1 say: "I yesterday learned from an acquaintance from La Paz that the Parana is very high, there being four fathoms of water at this time on the worst shoals." Previously, at his own request, I had given him a statement, not simply as to the condition of the river at the present season, but details as to its periodical changes. CHAPTER XVIII. Island of Martin Garcia. Pass of San Juan. Town of Higueritas. The Brasso Bravo. Rio Negro. The Gualaguaychu. Conception. Frey Bentos. Fine Pasturage. Herds of Cattle. Arrival at Conception. College. Saladeros. Town of Paisandu. An Englishman's Estancia. Current of the River. Palm Forests of Entre Rios. The Arroyo Grande. Paso He'redera. Town of Con- cordia. Trade. Salto. The Salto Grande. Killing a Partridge. Rise of Wa- ter. Tide. Track Survey of the Rio Negro. Town of Soriana. Mercedes. Sarsaparilla. Fossil Remains. Megatherium and Glyptodon. Health of this Region of Country. Cattle and Estancias. ON the 24th of April, 1855, we left the inner roads of Buenos Ayres, and, passing through the shipping in the outer roads, stood * "El Exmo. Sefior Presidente de la Republica ha notificado lisa y llanamente el 12 de Marzo de 1853, con dictamen de su consejo de Estado, el Tratado referido de 4 del propio Marzo, como he manifestado a U. S. en nuestra conferencia oficial, y en esta positura no es dable que S. E. el Sr. Presidente de la Republica se someta a nueva ratification en los terminos que U. S. el presente aviso de racibo de su nota referida del 18, reproduciendo mi anterior del 15, y dando por cerrada esta corresponclencia. " EXPEDITION TO THE URUGUAY. 319 for the entrance to the Martin Garcia Channel. I quote from my journal of this date : " Steered a N.E. course per compass from the man-owar an- chorage, carrying not less than fifteen feet water, until the high lands of San Juan (on the Banda Oriental side) were made on the same bearing, and with Martin Garcia N.W. by "W. ; a single ombu south of San Juan, E.N.E., and two ombus near Colonia, E.S.E. We passed the bar of San Juan with not less than four- teen feet of water, although I am confident we were not in the channel, as the pilot also thought." . In returning, after having completed the survey of the Uruguay, I find the following entry in my journal : " Left the island Martin Garcia, having obtained all the required observations, and when the high lands of San Juan bore N. 42 E., and Martin Garcia N. 60 W., stood across the bank, steering S.S.W., to the outer roads of Buenos Ayres ; least water at low tide ten feet. Martin Garcia was plainly in sight, distant about twelve miles, where the course was shaped for the outer roads." The bank here alluded to is that immense shoal between the Palma Pass and the Guazu, formed by the gradual accretion of allu- vial matter brought down by the branches into which the Parana is divided by the numerous islands forming its delta. It extends from the base of the delta south and east, gradually diminishing and the depth of water increasing, until it is lost in the main channel of La Plata. The new channel discovered in our work gives a greater depth, by two feet, into the Parana and Uruguay, showing that sixteen feet water may be carried into either of those rivers, over the bar of San Juan, at the ordinary low state of the tide. By tidal observations, made at Martin Garcia during the month of August, 1855, the ordinary rise was two to three feet ; that produced by the wind at southeast, when not blowing fresh, varied from three t6 four feet. " Anchored at Higueritas, about four hundred yards from the shore, in fifteen feet of water. This little town in the Banda Ori- ental is the first met with on entering the Uruguay. It stands half a mile inland, upon a ridge that slopes to the plain bordering the river. The shore line is crescent-shaped, the horns protecting the anchorage from those southeast winds which often delay for months the discharge and loading of vessels at Buenos Ayres. Cabot entered the mouth of the Uruguay, and may have been de- terred .from forming any settlement upon its banks by the fero- 320 HIGUERITAS. cious character of the Indians, wlio massacred a boat party that had, under the command of Alvarez Eamon, ascended some dis- tance ; but in recognizing the superior advantages of Higueritas as a port, we wonder that it should have escaped the keen eye of De Garay when seeking the site of a commercial town near the At- lantic. The anchorage is open from S.W. to N.W., the width of the river, and its waters could be agitated by no sea that would delay the dispatch of vessels. Within the bar of San Juan the depth varies from three to ten fathoms, and off this place, at a dis- tance % of from three hundred yards to three quarters of a mile, from two to six fathoms, with a gradual inclination of the bottom to the shore. In the neighborhood are fine granite quarries, from which exhaustless supplies of building material could be obtained. The Braso Bravo, one of the branches of the Parana, which is equally navigable with the Gruazu, empties into the Uruguay directly op- posite Higueritas, and the Braso Largo, another arm, a little above. This river is the dividing line between the Banda Ori- ental and Entre Kios, and the aspect of the country upon the right and the left presents for some distance in ascending a striking contrast. The shores on the left rise precipitously from the wa- ter, and the interior country, so far as the eye can reach, is a series of grassy undulations clear of wood. The right banks are low and wooded. As we advance, the bright green turf lands of En- tre Eios gradually rise from the very margin of the river some sixty feet, the general elevation of the country. On the left the banks of the Uruguay and its small tributary streams from the Banda Oriental are skirted with quebracho, urunday, etc., while clumps of espinilla give a park-like appearance to the interior country." The width of the river varies from four to seven miles ; its waters are turbid, and the channel not so well denned as that of the Parana ; but there is ample depth fof the Water Witch. The first affluent of any importance is the Kio Negro, which rises in the interior of the Banda Oriental, and empties by several arms into the Uruguay, the vast expanse of which is here interrupted by low wooded islands : Mas Boca, Fafea, Eondo, Lobos, Jaguar, Jaguar Chico, and Biscaino. Twelve miles above Eio Negro, the Gualaguaychu empties into the Uruguay from the right ; oppo'site, and six miles distant the width of the river at this point is Frey Bentos, an anchorage for all large vessels engaged in the trade of Concepcion del Uruguay GUALAGUAYCHU. 321 and the town of Gualaguaychu, which, latter is situated on the right bank of a stream of the same name, and nine miles above its mouth. Vessels of considerable size can go up to Concepcion, but they drop down here to complete cargo. Nine feet can be carried within a mile of the mouth of the Gualaguaychu, but at this point is encountered a bar over which there is but six feet at low water, and from eight and a half to nine at high. This depth may be carried up to the town, which, as the centre of a rich grazing state, must become indeed is a place of commercial activity, notwithstanding the inconvenience of transhipment, fifteen miles from the port. Its exports hides, tallow, jerked beef, and bone manure, are brought down to Frey Bentos in large sail-boats and small-decked craft. In 1849 it contained but 7000 inhabitants, but under the benign influence of constitutional government its population and trade have in- creased a hundred per cent. Two years have elapsed since my first visit, and I not only find its extent doubled, by new squares and streets, but the public and private buildings are handsome and substantial structures. Among them are a government house, theatre, and a private dwelling for General Urquiza. American pine lumber, now extensively used in the growing towns on the Parana, is also in demand here. Settlers are availing themselves of the liberal policy which governs the distribution or sale of public lands. The payment of a few shillings for recording the title will secure a fine chacra (farm), or even lots within the limits of a town, with the sole ob- ligation that the receiver shall occupy it himself, or by proxy, if a town lot ; or if a farm, inclose it within six months. The territory of this department extends from the Gualaguay Kiver coasting the Parana, to its entrance into the Uruguay, thence along the river to the Gualaguaychu, embracing ten judi- cial districts. Independent of its foreign commerce, which is steadily increasing, it has considerable trade with Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. This is carried on in vessels of light draught. The discriminating duties, recently imposed by the Argentine government upon interior trade, will necessarily induce foreign ships to its ports. This will prove a great gain to both buyer and seller. The estimated amount of exports from Gualaguaychu for the year 1851 was $447,273 ; and that of imports $179,929. Ascending from Frey Bentos, the course of the river changes from north to east, washing on two sides the Kincon de Gallinas 21 322 CONCEPCION. a corner of Banda Oriental, embracing many square leagues, and almost insulated by the Eio Negro and the Uruguay. It is entirely unoccupied, except by the huts of a few woodmen, who pay a small sum for the privilege of cutting its espinilla for the Buenos Ayres market, and yet it presents one of the most desir- able points on this river for the establishment of estancias. A fence across the narrow neck, connecting it with the ,main land, would effectually prevent one of the embarrassments complained of by the estancieros the straying of young cattle before they have received their " mark." Its verdant ridges afford extended views of land and water, and would be beautiful sites for dwellings. Between Frey Bentos and Concepcion a distance by the course of the river of 50 miles the lands of Entre Eios, where seen from the channel, were undulating, ranging some 50 or 60 feet above the river. The pasturage was fine, and herds of cattle, droves of horses, and flocks of sheep covered its green slopes. The view of the main land was sometimes intercepted entirely by high islands, many of them covered by a dense but indifferent vegeta- tion ; others' had a large number of peach-trees ; willows abound- ed, and, in the absence of better wood, are burned for charcoal. We left the main channel, which continues near the shores of the Banda Oriental, to test the practicability of one between the islands Bopigua and Laguna. Though contracted, it is perfectly safe and unobstructed. "We entered a riacho, and passing the mouth of the Arroyo da China, upon which stream is established a vast saladero, we anchored off Concepcion. Our reception now as on a former occasion, when I visited this town with Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck was extremely flattering, and showed that the services of the "Water "Witch were remembered gratefully. Beef and vegetables were sent by the authorities for the use of the crew, and every possible courtesy was extended to the officers. Among other civilities we received and accepted an invitation to a ball given in celebration of the anniversary of Urquiza's proclamation against Eosas in 1851. Concepcion has 5000 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on high land, about half a mile from the river. I have before allud- ed to its primary school and college, established by Urquiza. Both these institutions were at this time in the most flourishing condition. General Urquiza is a native of Entre Eios, resides much at San Jose,* and takes great interest in the growth and * The estancia visited by me in 1853. THE BANDA ORIENTAL. 323 prosperity of this place. It is the principal town in the Uruguay Department, which comprehends five judicial districts, and em- braces all the territory from the Gualaguaychu, coasting the Uru- guay Eiver, to the Arroyo Grande. The saladero at the mouth of the Arroyo da China is con- ducted on a vast scale. At the shipping season, when the estab- lishment is in full operation, they slaughter, salt up, stow away the beef, hides, and try out the tallow of five hundred head of cattle per day. The arroyo is deep, and there were at the time of our visit three vessels a bark, and two brigs of two and three hundred tons burden lying close to the shore. Two of them were taking in cargoes of hides and tallow, while the third was loading with horns, bones, and bone-ashes for England. The economy of the establishment was perfect. Parts formerly thrown away entrails and carcasses are now subjected to a steam press- ure, by which every particle of fatty matter is extracted ; the residue is dried as fuel for the furnaces ; the ashes of this fuel are shipped for England, and there greatly valued for fertilizing pur- poses. They told me at this saladero, that notwithstanding the fine appearance of the Entre Rios cattle, those of the Banda Ori- ental, bordering the Uruguay, were superior, and with this remark- able difference that hides from animals of the same size weighed several pounds more. " Nineteen miles above Concepcion is Paisandu, a town of 2388 souls, and the only one on the Banda Oriental shores since leav- ing Higueritas, distant 130 miles. It is a forlorn, dilapidated place. The houses are deserted, the gardens overgrown with weeds the marks of civil war, from which that state had just been delivered. The grass of the surrounding country is good, but the number of cattle is greatly diminished. Not a tree or sign of cultivation meets the eye. Statistics of this department rate the cattle at 350,000 ; horses, 3060 ; sheep, 56,000 ; hogs, 1558 ; jackasses, 2000 ; and a few goats. There are 134 pastoral establishments (establicimentos de pastora\ two of which formerly furnished as many cattle as can now be found in the whole de- partment. The population of this district, exclusive of that of the town, is 3859. A few miles above Paisandu is the Saladero Madelaso, where a large number of mares are slaughtered annu- ally. " In the Banda Oriental a series of grassy ridges run parallel with the river, and upon them are several quintas ; near one is a 324 MR. CAMPBELL'S ESTANCIA. field of wheat. The interior country is open, with clumps of mimosas. Friable limestone abounds. On the opposite side, in Entre Eios, the river is skirted by a dense growth of wood ; and near the mouth of the Arroyo San Francisco, which there empties into the Uruguay, is a lime-kiln, the stone for which is found in the immediate neighborhood. " Anchored 25 miles above Paisandu, off the estancia of an Englishman. Quantities of espinilla are cut and corded for the Buenos Ayres market. The site of Mr. Campbell's dwelling is well chosen, and, before learning the name of the owner, I knew, from the appearance of a fine vegetable garden, that it must be the property of a foreigner. There was, however, even here, no other cultivation ; for cattle-breeding is so easy, rapid, and certain a road to fortune, that foreigners, like the natives of the country, overlook the productive capabilities of the soil. This estancia contains five square leagues, and has the desiderata of a cattle- farm, fine pasturage, and abundance of water, being intersected by several arroyos. A few years since it was purchased for $17,000 ; it had then 16,000 head of cattle, and now, with 18,000, it is valued at $60,000. This shows a considerable increase in the price of cattle, for the land, when stocked, is rated at nothing. " The current is here two knots, and increasing as we go up- ward ; the least depth of water so far is 13 feet ; shoals, where they exist, are sand, or sand and gravel. " Above Estancia Campbell a belt of wood follows the course of the river on both shores, and inland are seen clumps of mimosas. The grass of the Banda Oriental is of a deeper hue than that of the opposite state, which, from the character of its soil light and sandy is more affected by drought. " Three miles above this estancia is the Arroyo Palma; on the right, palmae ; on the left, espinilla. " Vuelta San Jose, Campo San Jose upon it a fine stone cor- ral, made by the Brazilians during their invasion of the Banda. The palm forests of Entre Eios are dense, and the ground beneath is carpeted with a turf of bright green. Herds and flocks on that side are always in sight. These quiet pastoral landscapes are very beautiful, and we all have stocked estancias and built a hund- red air castles upon the verdant ridges. I never knew a sailor whose snug harbor, after the toils and dangers of a sea-life were over, was not a farm, and here it may be had without the de- sideratum in older countries money. CONCORDIA. SALTO. 325 "Arroyo Grande, the dividing line between the departments Uruguay and Concordia, empties from the right bank opposite the island Guaviu. This stream is skirted by fine timber, que- bracho, etc. A quarter of a mile above, another stream, the Ar- royo Chapiqui Chico, flows into the Uruguay from the same side. At this point the palm plains of Entre Bios terminate seventy -five miles above Paisandu. Eocks on both sides contract the channel, making a narrow and intricate pass, known as the Paso Heredero. On the left a saladero, and above, another estancia owned by Mr. Campbell ; it is stocked with a small herd of cattle and 30,000 sheep. " Twenty -five miles above Heredero Keef anchored off Concor- dia in 22 feet of water. This town, of 2500 inhabitants, dates its existence from 1831, and is the capital of a department of the same name, which extends from the Arroyo Grande to Mocorita, and comprehends ten judicial districts. It boasts a flourishing free-school, established in 1847 by Urquiza. In consequence of the obstruction to navigation offered by the Salto Grande, twenty miles above this, Concordia is the last town in Entre Eios from which an uninterrupted river communication may be maintained with the cities of the Parana and La Plata. As the shipping port for the missiones and a vast interior country, it has considerable trade. The principal exports are hides, tallow, and yerba. In 1850 there was received here, in transitu for other places, among a variety of articles, the following: 10,624 tercias* of yerba, 1694 arobas of wool, 1070 cheeses of 6 Ibs. each, 2643 fanegasf of salt, 132 pipes and 54 barrels of tallow and beef grease, 1962 aro- bas of horse-hair, 1300 arobas and 164 barrels of rice, 17,272 dry hides of cattle, 2289 ditto salted, 2109 hides of mares, 1506 quin- tals of jerked beef. " Three miles above, on the opposite shore, which rises sixty feet above the level of the river, stands Salto, the principal town of a department of the same name. It is rather a bustling place of 2800 inhabitants, and the last port on the Oriental side before reaching the fall. Between Concordia and Salto, a little above the anchorage of the first place, is a rocky ledge, Coralitas, which endangers the navigation somewhat ; but between its projecting rocks there is sufficient width and depth, even at low water, for any steamer or vessel that may ascend the river that is, from * Tercias, the hide sacks in which yerba is packed, containing 8 arobas of 25 Ibs. each. f fanega, 2* bushels. 326 SALTO GRANDE. six to seven feet could be carried with, safety to Salto. The least depth, we have named continues but a short time, and even up to this point is increased by south winds. "The exports of Salto would be limited to a few hides and a small quantity of tallow but for the products of the interior coun- try, which are transported from Uruguayana and other Brazilian towns in carretas (ox wagons). Thirty thousand arobas of yerba are shipped annually, but it is inferior to the Paraguay leaf. This department has suffered much from the wars that have af- flicted this unfortunate country, and has now, including the city, but a population of 7364 souls. Statistics give the following as its stock in 1852 : 262,000 head of cattle, 17,000 horses, 25,000 mares, 500 mules, 4000 hogs, 113,000 sheep. There are now 404 pastoral establishments. " Though the navigation of the Upper Uruguay is a question of vital importance to the inhabitants upon its borders, I can ob- tain no information as to the condition of the water upon the great falls, and can only guess, from a variety of contradictory state- ments, that vessels of light draught may pass over them during the months of October and November. The passage, even during those months, must be difficult, if not dangerous, on account of the rapidity of the current. An attempt was made in a small steamer a year or two since, and in the failure, from lack of pow- er in the boat, she was near being lost. "Judging from all that I see and hear, the river is too low to pass over the Salto Chico (Little Fall), at this time with the Wa- ter Witch." I engaged a boat, and proceeded to examine the Salto Grande. To avoid the current as much as possible, we kept near the Entre Eios shore, intending to return by the channel. After a pull of five hours we reached the Salto, a picturesque spot, but misnamed a fall. There is no one great perpendicular descent, but for about one third of a mile the river from shore to shore presents a foam- ing surface, broken by verdant islets and innumerable rocks of a reddish sandstone, over and through which the waters dash with inconceivable force. The rocks are of every shape and size. Some rise smooth and rounded for several feet above the water ; others project sharply, presenting the most fantastic shapes. The rush and roar of this mighty river, boiling and foaming through its green pastoral banks, was a magnificent spectacle. The banks on both sides rise some thirty or forty feet above it, and are skirt- DESCENT OF THE RIVER. 327 ed with indifferent wood, but the want of a nobler vegetation is supplied bj the luxuriance of a number of climbing plants. The humid atmosphere was redolent with their delicious odor, and the eye was charmed by the beauty of the white trumpet-shaped flow- ers of an epiphyte that encircled the trunks and covered the limbs of every dead tree, as if all association of decay must be banished from the imposing features of nature here presented. We found a river craft, snugly moored out of the influence of currents, at the mouth of a small arroyo, where it was quietly awaiting a rise of the waters. The skipper seemed to be philosophically indiffer- ent as to whether this would occur in a week or year ; he thought release was possible in one month by the transient rise in June. From that time the Uruguay fluctuates until October, and in No- vember has attained its maximum, after which it falls rapidly. There must yet be a rise of twenty feet to allow the ascent of vessels of the draught of the Water Witch. I went on shore with my gun ; saw deer, capinchas, and many partridges. Nothing could exceed the amazement of the pilot when I brought down one of these last. He looked at the flut- tering bird, then at me, exclaiming, " I have never seen any thing to equal that."* In descending through the channel, the least depth of water was ten feet on the Salto Chico ; width of river from a half to three quarters of a mile. Physical features of the country on both sides unchanged rolling grass lands. We made, in descending, the same distance in two hours through which it had taken five to ascend. I found that the river had fallen fifteen inches in twenty-six hours. It is a little above its ordinary level, which accounts for this rapid decrease. "Descending, anchored off Concepcion, that we might obtain observations of comparison for the chronometers in connection with those made during our ascent. " Stopped off Mr. Campbell's estancia to purchase espinilla for ship's use. This wood, sawed and split into pieces of twelve inches by four, cost half a cent each stick, of which there were about 1600 in a cord, making $8 per cord. Purchased a beeve, for which we paid $10, without the hide. Mr. Campbell says that the interior streams are bordered by valuable woods, such as quebracho, curupay, nandubay, etc. * The partridge is caught in this country with the lasso, or a small running 328 IN THE MUD - " I regret that we have no time to examine the neighboring plains, which are particularly interesting from the number and character of fossils that have been recently disimbedded from them. One an osseous-armored animal, found six feet below the surface in the banks of a neighboring arroyo must, I think, from Mr. Campbell's description, be a gigantic prototype of the armadillo. I hope, before leaving La Plata, to be able to give some attention to this subject; but the more important objects of the expedition must first be carried out. "Anchored off Frey Bentos; or rather, unintentionally, laid the "Water Witch on a mud-bank, by leaving the channel to make a detailed survey in crossing from the Banda Oriental side to the mouth of the Gualaguaychu. As bad luck would have it, we have one of those northeast winds, which at times leave little water in the river, and our craft is as snug in two feet of mud as if in dock ; while we go on with the designed work in boats, calcii- lating from the law of probabilities that by the time it is finish- ed, if not before, the wind will haul south. The result of this survey was a good channel of ten feet, to within two miles of the mouth of the Grualaguaychu. "While in the mud we have had a striking instance of the effects of southerly winds upon the tide, or flow of water in this river. The wind for four days has been blowing northeast. Hauling suddenly to southwest, in one hour the water rose three feet. This change is caused more by the removal of a pressure driving the waters out than from a power forcing them in ; for it is a southeaster that produces the greatest and most sudden rise. Above Concepcion the river rises twenty-four feet, a height main- tained but a short time because of the greatly -increased width below and its approach to La Plata. As an illustration of the in- fluence of the tide, I may state that I find on the Paso de Tala, a distance of one hundred and ten miles below Salto, one foot greater depth of water than when we ascended, notwithstanding the fall at the latter point of four feet during the three days that I remained. " Anchored off the Kio Negro ; having sent Mr. Henry to run out a supposed channel along the Banda Oriental shore from Frey Bentos to this point. He found it direct and of ten feet, making three in this reach of the river ; the one best adapted to large vessels being near the Entre Eios shore. " Accompanied by Mr. Murdaugh, I left the steamer to make a FOSSILS. 329 track survey of the Rio Negro to Mercedes. Five miles from its mouth passed Soriana, a small town on the left bank. Encamp- ed for the night at Port Cerito. While the men were pitching their tents we started over the plains with our guns ; saw many partridges ; supped on ' hard tack,' made soft by soaking ; found shawl and poncho no effectual protection against damp grass and the chilliness of the night. At early dawn again on the move, and reached Mercedes at meridian." This town of 7000 inhabitants stands on high land about half a mile from the river, and presented the most attractive appear- ance as we approached. Above it the Eio Negro is not naviga- ble ; but up to this place we found a channel of seven feet, which is increased to ten by a south wind ; width of river from three quarters to one mile. The vast growth of sarsaparilla upon the borders of this river discolors its waters, and imparts to them at the same time such medicinal properties that invalids resort to Mercedes for the benefit of their curative power. Here, as elsewhere in all this country, the principal exports are hides and jerked beef; lime and fire- wood, in small quantities, are sent to Buenos Ayres. " We spent the afternoon in riding over the neighboring plains. Soil a tenacious black loam; grass vigorous. We saw neither cattle nor cultivation ; and every where in this unfortunate coun- try we hear the same story : * Civil wars have desolated and de- populated it. 7 "The number of gigantic quadrupeds imbedded in these plains is extraordinary. Mr. Stoddard, an English gentleman residing at Mercedes, has made a valuable collection, which Includes what he supposes to be a glyptodon, and many very perfect parts of a megathereum. The developments that have been more recently made fully sustain Darnin in saying, that : the number of the re- mains imbedded in the grand estuary deposit which forms the pampas and covers the granite rocks of the Banda Oriental must be extraordinarily great.' * "Another individual of this place tells me of a fine collection of petrifactions found in the neighborhood a horse's hoof, cow dung, birds' eggs ; and on the Gualaguaychu trunks, branches of silicified trees are found, exhibiting every stage of petrescence." Having accomplished the object of our visit to Mercedes, we proceeded to Higueritas, where a more detailed survey was made * Darnin, vol. i., p. 199. 330 STATE OF ENTRE BIOS. of the anchorage. From thence I once more returned to Buenos Ayres, and prepared for an exploration of the Salado. It will be seen that to Salto, fifteen miles below the Great Fall, and two hundred and ninety from Martin Garcia, we ascended the Uruguay in the "Water Witch at the season of low water. It therefore may be inferred that the ascent of this river is easy and practicable at all times to vessels of nine feet draught. In the upper part there is a slight current ; but that is often neutralized by the flood tide, which is perceptible with every south wind. Its channel, though not so well defined as that of the Parana, is not changed by every inundation, and is wide enough to admit of vessels beating up and down. By a short canal, of about three locks, the navigation of this noble river could be opened several hundred miles beyond the Salto Grande, where it flows through a fertile and comparatively populous country. Numerous islands and islets of every size and form rise many feet above the high- est water level, but add little to its beauty. Many of them ex- tend for miles, and intercept entirely a view of the main land ; but they are without the splendid vegetation, the brilliant flora, that render so enchantingly beautiful those of the Parana Archi- pelago. With the exception of the willow and peach, their growth is generally shrubby, and, so far as I could judge, valueless. For half a century the Banda Oriental, with few intervals of peace, has been afflicted by calamitous wars, civil and foreign. The decrease of cattle its only source of wealth is enormous ; and the condition of its territory upon the Uruguay, as compared with that of Entre Eios opposite, offered the most impressive illustration of the influence of peace and just government upon the progress of these countries. Entre Eios, in the revolutionary struggle, was devastated by Artigas; and as a neighboring state it has suffered from the occupation of the Banda Oriental by Brazil. At the period of our visit but two years had elapsed since the opening of the rivers to foreign commerce, and the establishment of the Argentine Confederation under a constitu- tional government ; but in this short time the towns of this state, upon the Uruguay, like those of the Parana, had doubled their population ; free-schools, and a college were flourishing ; estancias were numerous and well stocked; ships were loading for Euro- pean ports; and with the continuance of peace Entre Eios is destined to be one of the most prosperous states in La Plata. Throughout its length and breadth it has not an infertile or insa- THE GAUCHOS. 331 lubrious district ; it is intersected by numerous perennial streams, tributaries to the Parana and Uruguay the central lines of com- munication with the Atlantic. Nature unaided produces fine pastures ; and the luxuriant herbage is but the covering of a vast gold mine a varied and productive soil. Formerly the wealth of the estanciero consisted entirely in herds of horned cattle ; but this property is easily appropriated in time of war ; and many of them, having suffered severe losses, have of late years given much attention to the rearing of sheep, which is attended with such success that wool is, or will become soon, a staple. To the gau- cho soldier carnero (mutton) is not carne (beef); neither is the skin of the former so available as the hide of the latter to the commanding general, who enters the war poor, and leaves it rich, by possessing himself of the herds of some individual of the oppo- site party. The grazing farms (estdblicimentos pastoros) are generally owned by capitalists, who leave the entire management of their estates each to a capitaz, who lives in a thatched hut, with no comforts not even those for the table that might be derived from the rudest culture of the soil. A few proprietors reside upon their estancias, in excellent adobe houses, and possess generally great popularity and influence over the gauchos, the only laborers of the Riverine Provinces. Muscular and athletic, scarcely a shade lighter than the Indian, with long uncombed black locks, the appearance of the gaucho in his picturesque costume is imposing. When we glance at the training of these men, and know that in the military agitations of the country they are the soldiers, and that many of the chieftains who have figured prominently in the strifes of the land belong to this class, we cease to be astonished at the sanguinary character of their contests. The whole educa- tion of the gaucho is physical. The long sheath-knife the toy of his infancy is the prized weapon of his matured years ; the pastimes of youth are feats of horsemanship, trials of skill with the lasso and bolas ; the most peaceful occupation of his manhood is to figure in the spectacles of the country the corrals as a " domador" or marker of cattle, or to be an active laborer in its only industrial establishments, saladeros. Such pursuits leave their mark. Many of them become imbued with a brutal ferocity a fearful indifference to the shedding of blood, which exhibits itself in the atrocities that characterize the civil wars of La Plata. 332 EXPLORATION OF THE SALADO. CHAPTER XIX. Chartering of the little Steamer. Arrival at Santa Fe'. Province of Santa Fe. Civil Wars and Independence. Wood. Ascent of the River. Animal Life. Ducks, Jaguars, Capibaras, and Armadillos. The Diver, Podiceps leucopterus. Planting of sweet Potatoes. The Crucito. The Saladito. La Cruz. The Bed of a Lagoon. Monte Aguara. The Return. Current and Width of the River. The Jaguar. Density of the Salado Water. Journey by Land to the upper Wa- ters. A Tatu. Quebracho. The Mirage. The surly Officer. The Tongue of the taciturn Argentine loosened. The Segundo. Tio or Concepcion. Algor- roba and Soil. Arrival at Cordova. List of Distances. IMMEDIATELY on my return I chartered from the agent of the American and Paraguay Company a small steamer, which had been shipped from the United States in detached pieces, and was now being put together in the "Tigre" for the purpose of explor- ing the Salado.* Her length was 112 feet, draught 26 inches, with all on board twenty -five souls, two months' provisions, six tons of coal, and two cords of wood. On the first day of July, as she was in a running condition, and her accommodations sufficiently advanced to afford protection from the weather, I took possession of her, and on the 2d started for the scene of our future operations, accompanied by the following officers : Acting Lieutenants William L. Powell and W. H. Mur- daugh, Assistant Surgeon Eobert Carter, Assistant Engineer T. B. C. Stump, and a crew of twenty men. Previous to this move the entrance to the Palma Pass had been surveyed, and to Lieutenant Jeffers was assigned the charge of the "Water Witch, with instructions to complete the work at Martin Garcia, the result of which has already been given. We proceeded through the Arroyo Capitan, the Palma Pass, and Baradero, which, in connection with the work subsequently done by Lieutenant Powell on his return in the Yerba, completed the survey of the various branches of the Parana within its delta to the town of Santa Fe, the starting-point of our Salado expedi- tion. Our arrival quite disturbed the quietude of Santa Fe', and ex- cited a vast deal of enthusiasm ; for, should the Salado prove nav- * The Salado, that empties into the Parana at Santa Fe', SANTA FE. 333 igable to the western provinces, great prosperity might be antici- pated for this town and province. To verify the predictions of some and realize the hopes of others depended upon contingencies in the future of the work that gave rise to endless speculation. Our reception, both by officials and individuals, was very flatter- ing, but none could give us any information as to the state of the river ; indeed, all accounts were discouraging. "We were told by those who were supposed to be the best informed that we might possibly ascend about 45 miles ; by some that it was no river ; and by others that it took its rise in one of the numerous lakes in that region of country. We dined with the governor, and accompanied his family to a ball, where we were agreeably impressed with the tact and good breeding of the men and women. The latter were generally handsome and well dressed, and danced with the inimitable grace and precision which I have alluded to as distinguishing their coun- trywomen. At the period of our visit the aspect of Santa Fe was rather des- olate, for both country and city had suffered in years past from the hostilities of the Chaco Indians, and the latter was not yet, like its neighbor Eosario, revivified by the opening of the rivers. Before the Eevolution this province was considered as forming part of the jurisdiction of Buenos Ay res, and as no expense was spared in protecting it from the incursions of the savages by forts adequately garrisoned, it was one of the most prosperous towns in the viceroyalty, a point of distribution not only for the products of the west and northwest, but of Corrientes and Paraguay, for Chili and Peru. Its estancieros alone, from their herds in this and the province of Entre Eios, were able to furnish 50,000 mules an- nually for the Alto Peruvian market, and the amount of one item, yerba, received in transitu, reached 125,000 arobas. In the civil wars which distracted the country after its separa- tion from Spain, Santa Fe declared itself independent of the cen- tral government, and drew the line of division at the Arroyo del Medio. But by this act was sown the germ of its decadence, for to maintain garrisons and establish posts for the protection of a long line of frontier, as well as to guard against invasion from other quarters, were more than the resources of the new state would ad- mit of. Outposts were driven in from time to time, estancias, the richest in La Plata, were robbed of cattle and deserted by their 334 ASCENT OF THE SALADO. owners, while, emboldened by success, the Indians at last advanced to the vicinity of the town, and on several occasions entered it and committed horrible excesses. The finest districts of the coun- try were finally abandoned, and the whole population of the state reduced to about sixteen or twenty thousand souls, of which the towns of Eosario and Santa Fe embraced nearly one half within their limits, the former containing about 3000 and the latter 6000 souls. The position of Santa Fe, on an arm of the Parana, makes it less accessible to sailing vessels than other towns of that river. But all difficulties will be obviated by the introduction of steam- ers of suitable construction ; and now that the navigability of the Salado for 900 miles is established, its facilities for communica- tion with the western states are so increased that it must not only re-attain its old prosperity and consideration, but become the rival of its neighbor Kosario, which is now the emporium of trade in the Confederation. The same elements that have so far ex- panded and enlivened the once contracted and silent streets of the latter will also build up the vacant squares of this town, and line its bold water-front with store-houses for the receipt and dispatch of the products of the country. To obtain the necessary fuel for our craft we were obliged to intercept, early in the morning, carts bringing in the daily sup- ply ; which sometimes embarrassed, I fear, the domestic economy of many a housewife, who doubtless wished us, in return, a speedy departure. This wood, principally algorroba, was bought for half the price paid at other parts of the Parana. On the 13th July, 1855, with the governor, his family, and a few friends on board, who desired to accompany us a short dis- tance, we commenced our ascent of the Salado. Although it was the season of low water, the river, for some miles above its mouth, was very full, and the low lands on either side inundated. Its width was from one to two hundred feet; depth, twelve to eighteen ; current, about one and a half miles the hour ; windings between any two points equal to four times the distance on a straight line ; banks well wooded with algorroba. We had gone, by the course of the river, about eighteen miles, when, coming to a point at which the governor had ordered con- veyances, we parted with our guests, and, cheered by a bright, pleasant morning, were now fairly under way. " July 16. By the course of the river we have advanced 75 THE PAMPAS OF THE CHACO. 335 miles, and are near the last frontier post of Santa Fe, distant, in a direct line from the city, 20 miles. Passing this point, all civili- zation is behind us ; we are entering the undisturbed possessions of the Chaco tribes. The river presents a more decided and de- fined character, with a gradual diminution of current, which arises from the fact that it is here supplied only by its main source and tributaries, without the additional discharge of numerous over- flowing lakes. It courses through a bottom or flat, from one to four miles in breadth, in some places sparsely and in others dense- ly wooded. The banks rise from twenty to fifty feet, to the level of a pampa, which presents a vast grassy expanse without any in- equalities of surface. As the eye wanders over it, a dark wavy line in the distance alone breaks the monotony of the plain, and marks the windings of the Salado with its fringing of algorroba. " Although we are but little more than twenty miles from a town of five thousand inhabitants, there is not a vestige of civili- zation or the track of a human being ; even the footprint of an Indian is nowhere visible ; but the manifestations of animal life are extraordinary. Eiver and plain are enlivened by fowl and quadruped in endless variety. It is the domain of the jaguar, the shielded armadillo, ducks, geese, flocks of the black-necked swan, plover of different species, partridges, pigeons of extraordinary size, the guanaco, the ostrich, the hare, the deer, the clumsy capi- bara ; while the waters teem with fish and the air is darkened by flocks of the small white gull. " We occasionally rob the nests of ducks and geese. Having taken some of the first in the moulting state, it gave rise to an amusing discussion among the officers ; some contending that they were pichones (young ones) ; but when they were served up for dinner the impossibility of masticating the most delicate morsels decided the question. It is our habit to stop before sun- set for wood ; and so abundant is the growth that in two hours our axemen obtain an ample supply of the best algorroba for the next day's work. These are also our opportunities for bo- tanic and zoological research. " July 18. While getting up steam at an early hour, I strolled a short distance inland and shot some partridges. The pampa is now broken by lagoons dotted with islets and gay with water- fowl. Up to this point, we are distant, by observation, from Santa Fe in a right line bearing south by east thirty-three miles ; and by the river one hundred and fifty which will give 336 THE SALADO. some idea of its windings. A heavy frost this morning covered the ground like a fall of snow. Thermometer, at 4 A.M., 35. Bj the gauge we find the water has fallen, in the last twelve hours, only one inch. "July 19. The pampa is belted by lofty trees, generally que- bracho, and slopes gently to the 'bottom,' which is now narrowed to half a mile on either side of the river. There is no under- growth, the grass is fresh and green, and no meadow could pre- sent a more refreshing aspect. It is the second winter month, but the air is soft and balmy as a May day in temperate zones. The river and land still teem with animal life, and yet we can not trace a sign of human occupation. "July ZQtli. Kiver less tortuous; depth from fifteen to eighteen feet. Passed an arroyo on the right bank, which runs through a broad flat, extending north and west ; water too brackish to be drinkable. At the junction of this little stream the Salado washes the base of the high land, here densely wooded ; the banks show a stratum of yellow clay resting on tosca, and above, a surface-soil of rich vegetable earth from two to four feet in depth. The river has fallen within the, last twelve hours six inches very dif- ferent from its state a few days past ; for there are now but few lagoons to feed it. Its windings carry us quite round the compass. Passed what I supposed to be an arroyo on the left bank ; but on rounding a bend of about three miles, which brought us nearly back to the same point, found it nothing more than a ' break through' of the main river, which will doubtless become soon the principal channel. The distance across, through which it had made its way, is not more than one hundred yards. u Opening, at the season of low water, canals across the various necks of land, would shorten the distance quite one third ; for, with the least excavation imaginable, the Salado would in a short time make for itself a new and more direct channel. Passed the Esquina Grande, where stood in former days a Spanish fort, not a vestige of which now remains. We continue to see deer, cap- inchas, geese, ducks, plover, snipe, in vast numbers. Among the ducks was a beautiful diver, the Podiceps leucopterus, that attracted our admiration and particular notice. It carries its young upon its back ; and it was amusing to see the little creatures dive, and, on rising to the surface, again resume their place upon the ma- ternal back. -Here are evidences that the river has fallen from the highest point about six feet, and still we find a depth of fif- THE SALADITO. 337 teen ; banks from five to eight feet in height, with indications of overflow ; current one mile ; average width one hundred feet. " Saw a large herd of wild horses. Affrighted by the appear- ance of the steamer, and perhaps still more by the noise of our high-pressure engine, they dashed over the plains as if mad, and were soon hid among the algorrobas. We have seen no Indians, and no immediate trace of them, save a well of fresh water not far from the bank, and evidently not very recently dug. I have left my mark in this country by planting a few orange seeds and some sweet potatoes. Soil a dark alluvium, with a rich growth of grass ; the water is more brackish as we progress. " July 2Sd. During the last twelve hours the river has fallen five inches. The frost this morning again covered the plain like snow. Thermometer during the night 29 ; at 7 A.M., 32 ; at 8, 42 ; at 12 M., 60; at 4 P.M., 58 ; at 8 P.M., 52; at mid- night 41. The least depth, up to meridian, nine feet ; but be- fore the close of the day's run we had as little as five, with a tosca bottom. I fear that I shall be compelled to retrace my steps much sooner than I had anticipated. I was aware that it was the period of low water ; but the inundated banks near the mouth of the Salado induced the hope that an extraordinary season had kept up a supply. "We are about seventy -five miles in a right line from Santa F, bearing S. by E., and three hundred by the river. Its course is now less tortuous, and as we ascend, the navigation is not so impeded, and the ' bottom' narrowed by the approach on either side of the more elevated lands of the pampa. " July 24th. The river has fallen in the past twelve hours three and a kalf inches ; twenty-four nours previously within the same time it fell five inches. . From the right a small stream, the Cru- oito, flows into the Salado; water dark, but clear and sweet. Pulled up it in a boat half a mile. It is very narrow, with five feet depth, and is doubtless the outlet of some lake probably the Porongas. Before the close of the day had but four feet water, muddy bottom ; river inclines more to the northwest, and is less tortuous ; banks well wooded with algorroba. Were the river not falling, I should feel much encouraged to proceed with this exploration, for I am more and more impressed with the belief that it is a channel of vast importance. Made fast to the right bank near the mouth of a small stream of turbid, brackish water, which I called Saladito (little Salado). Pulled up it a mile or two ; found a depth of three feet and considerable current. It is 22 338 RIVER FALLING. undoubtedly the outpouring of some saline lake. At its junction there were myriads of cat-fish, of which the men at one haul with our net filled the little boat. Near the same point were countless numbers of small white gulls. Position of the mouth of the Sal- adito, latitude 30 14? ; longitude 60 41' W. ; variation 9 ; dis- tant from Sante Fe eighty-five miles in a right line, by the river 340. " July 25th. At 6 A.M., thermometer 33. Eiver has fallen in the last twelve hours half an inch ; this gives me hope that it has reached its lowest point here and above. There was ice this morning. .Thermometer at 4h. 31 ; at 8h. 37. " The men amused themselves with setting fire to the grass to give the immigrants next year richer pasturage. " A mile or two above the Saladito came to the mouth of an- other small tributary from the same bank, which at first per- plexed me, for I was in doubt as to which was the principal river. I pulled up it a mile or more ; found it very narrow, with some current ; water dark and sweet, from which I concluded that it could not be the Salado, but ' La Cruz' (the Cross). We continu- ed to ascend what I considered the main river, having a slight decrease in the depth and a width less than the length of the steamer. I took a small boat and pulled ahead a few miles. The water was as salt as that of the ocean, and its general characteris- tics satisfied me that it was the veritable Salado. I mounted the bank here fifteen feet to the level of the pampa ; observed a lake or river in the distance, and, approaching, found that it was the dry bed of a lagoon, now covered with a saline efflorescence which sparkled and shone like a sheet of beautiful water. As far as the eye could reach the monotony of the pampa was broken by two wooded belts, one extending north, the other west. The first I believe to be the course of the Salado, the other of La Cruz. I proceed north with the steamer. "July 26th. In the last fifteen hours the water has fallen three and a half inches. Not very encouraging, but we go ahead. Have advanced eight miles ; depth decreasing ; took to the little boat ; pulled up two miles ; found only two and a half feet, and the obstruction of a fallen algorroba, which will interrupt the pas- sage of the boat. This should not prove an insurmountable ob- struction had the river ceased falling, or were there water enough beyond. Incleed, neither of these difficulties should turn me back did I not hold the ' Yerba' under a contract by which I am to re- LIMIT OF THE EXPLORATION. 339 turn her in little more than one month. I should, under other circumstances, remain here until the rise, which should begin in November, and may be hastened by local rains. "This point Monte Aguara must then be the extent of the exploration in the Salado with the steamer Yerba. It is in lati- tude 31 10' 50" south, longitude 60 38' 47" west; distant from Santa Fe by river 340 miles, and in a right line 96. On the right bank, which rises about twenty feet to a wooded skirt, stands a large guaranina-tree. On this we cut a cross and the letters U. S., and about ten feet from it buried a bottle containing latitude, longitude, names of officers and steamer. " With regret I retrace my steps ; but in ascending and demon- strating the navigability of the Salado to Monte Aguara we have achieved something. Its uniform character, unchanging course, and well-defined banks ; its rise, as indicated by marks on trees ; the unbroken plain through which it flows, all induce the belief that it is a river capable of being navigated to a great distance be- yond the point reached. Its complete exploration is of import- ance, not only to the Argentine Confederation, but to the whole commercial world. " To set at rest all doubt as to its navigability I will return to Santa Fe, and by land proceed to some point in the Province of Santiago, from which I can descend by some means to Monte Aguara." It will have been seen by these extracts from my journal that, when scarce beyond the smoke of Santa Fe, we had passed every habitation of man, even the scattered huts of a few charcoal-burn- ers, and entered the domain of those fierce aboriginals of the Cha- co, the Indian and the jaguar; that we followed the windings of a navigable river for three hundred and forty miles in a steamer of two feet draught without meeting with even the obstruction of a fallen tree ; that the pampa rises from twenty to fifty feet above the " flat" through which the Salado flows, presenting at times a boundless plain, over which the eye wanders without discerning the slightest inequality of surface. Again, after penetrating through a magnificent bordering of quebracho or algorroba, we find the interior country diversified by park-like groupings of al- gorroba, by the wooded belting of some tributary stream, or by lakes and salinas, the first darkened by myriads of water-fowl, while the latter are glistening in the sun with saline efflorescence. "We found at times little or no current; the least depth was 340 SHOOTING A JAGUAR. thirty inches when the water had ceased falling ; and its greatest rise, as indicated by marks on the bank, was twelve feet. Its width did not much exceed thirty yards, and above La Cruz, though the river was brackish, we generally found water fresh and sweet by digging a few feet below the surface at a short dis- tance from the banks. I think it probable that both the Crucito and La Cruz have their rise in the Lake Porongas, which receives an immense volume of water from the Kio Dulce, independent of other sources, and, like it, are perfectly free from saliferous de- posits, which would not probably be the case were they fed by the draining of other lagoons, most of which are saline. As an illustration of the physical character of the basin of La Plata at its various points, it is worthy of note that between these two little rivers there flows the Saladito, which empties into the Salado not more than one mile from the mouth of La Cruz, and yet its water is as salt as the ocean ; this stream is doubtless the outpouring of a saline lagoon. Throughout this exploration we saw no Indians, and, except a few wells, beaten paths, and marks of encampment, no traces of them ; and yet the verdant meadows and plains, the rich dark soil conveyed an undoubted impression of fertility. I found that offi- cers and men were indulging in the old habit of selecting estan- cias and covering them with flocks and herds. The botany of this region offered us nothing new, but from its zoology we made many interesting additions to our collections. The number and varied species of animal life were extraordinary. An army could have subsisted for a time upon the resources of the plain and river. In descending we shot a magnificent jaguar the largest I have ever seen, measuring from its nose to the root of the tail five feet two inches. He was walking on the left bank, doubtless bound on a fishing excursion. Instead of escaping inland when he saw us, he dashed into the river, as if to swim to the opposite shore ; but midway the stream he suddenly turned, as if to battle with the steamer. Several men came forward, eager to have a shot at the enemy, who approached rapidly, apparently undaunted by the appearance or noise of crew or vessel, and snarling as if impa- tient to make an end of us. Anxious to secure it as a specimen, and of course with as little mutilation as possible, I directed the men to wait for the word "fire," giving the first chance to Kelly, the best shot on board. I told him to lodge the ball " abaft" the HYDROMETRIC MEASUREMENTS. 341 SHOOTING THE JAGUAK. ear. He raised his musket, took deliberate aim, and fired. The huge creature floundered in the water, and when the men in the boat reached him a minute or two later he was not quite dead, but bleeding profusely, and so far gone as to be harmless. With a ship's musket, and a charge of "buck and ball," Kelly had se- cured one of the finest specimens of the South American tiger, perhaps, ever seen in the United States. The skin was carefully preserved in salt, and sent home, where it arrived in good condi- tion, and may be seen in the collection at the Smithsonian In- stitute. Among the swimming birds secured are several species of teals, differing but little, and yet with distinctive marks in plumage. The density of the Salado water at two points one below the tributaries alluded to, and the other at Monte Aguara also that of the Crucito and La Cruz, was tested by hydrometric measure- ment, and found as follows : Density of Salado below the tributaries by hydrometer (No. 7) , 8.5 Temperature of water (Fahr.) 54.5 " air " ..38 342 EETUKN TO SANTA FE. Density of River Crucito 2.3 Temperature of water 52. 5 " air 59.5 Density of Eiver La Cruz 6.3 Temperature of water 41. 5 " air 48.5 Density of the Salado at Monte Aquara 21.88 Temperature of water 54 " air 69 It will be seen that the difference in density between the two points of the river at its present low state, below and above the fresh-water tributaries, is very great, and can alone be attributed to their influence. On the 26th we began to retrace our steps. The season of fall in this river is from May to November ; and boats adapted to its navigation during the greater part of the year should not have length exceeding 90 feet, beam 16, draft 2 ; and with the addition of a rudder in the bow a steamer could be more effectually con- trolled through its tortuous windings. During our return it was " touch and go," on several of the shoalest places, showing that it was well we had not postponed a day later. The water had reached nearly its lowest point, and though in some parts it had decreased eight feet in twelve days, it was now falling only at the rate of two inches in twenty -four hours. Exposed sections of the banks at various points showed invariably a substratum of indurated clay, with a deep surface-soil. We reached Santa Fe on. the 6th of the month, and on the 12th, having completed the necessary observations, the Yerba was given in charge to Lieutenant Powell, with instructions to explore such branches of the Parana as had not been already surveyed ; and then to deliver up the steamer to the parties from whom she had been chartered, and rejoin the "Water Witch. I detached Lieutenant Murdaugh, and Cornelius, one of the most reliable men of our crew, to accompany me in a land jour- ney to the head- waters of the Salado, and if possible to those of the Pilcomayo. To establish the navigability of this latter river was with me a work of absorbing interest ; and as the " Lopez decree" would not let us ascend it from the Paraguay, I thought that we might, with such means of defense against Indians as the Bolivians would gladly afford, work our way down it with the current, or even alone, on some craft that would float. LAND JOURNEY UNDERTAKEN. 343 I determined to proceed direct to Cordova, thence to Santiago del Estero, and so on to Bolivia. The route from Sante Fe to the west was now entirely abandoned, and that from Eosario adopted, in consequence of the inhospitable character of the Indians in that section of the province. But the governor, with his usual zeal to forward our work, offered me a small military escort, and with our three carbines, and thus re-enforced, I thought we could make our way through any party of wandering savages ; for they never encamp or establish toldos on this road, as their principal object is to plunder the tropas* of oxen, horses, or any portable effects, and retire to the interior of the Chaco. I also timed my departure to suit that of the military com- mander-in-chief of the province, Colonel Eodriguez, who was going to examine Eomero, twenty -two leagues from Santa Fe, for the purpose of establishing a new military post, which would extend the frontier line of defense twelve leagues. Sause, ten leagues from Santa Fe, was then the last post, and our stopping-place the first night. Near it is a pueblito of six or seven hundred civilized Abipones, one of the most desolate and comfortless villages we had seen. For this no possible reason could be assigned, other than the indolence and improvidence of its inhabitants; for the surrounding country is fertile, and offers excellent pasturage. "We were kept awake the beginning of the night by the unceasing howling and barking of dogs, apparently quite equal in number to the population ; and toward day by the crowing of as many game-cocks. At 4 A.M. I roused up Cornel- ius, who had become quite an adept in making mate, and we for- tified ourselves for a long day's ride with this beverage. "We started at an early hour, and expecting to travel sixty-seven miles without changing horses, our progress was necessarily slow generally a walk, the most unusual and fatiguing gait in a horseback journey over the plains. At 4 o'clock P.M. we reach- ed Eomero, a point distinguished in the unbroken level of the pampa by four quebracho-trees and a small lagoon. Before we had reached our halting-place, one of the soldiers branched off, and seemed to be hunting for something over the plain. He soon reappeared with a " tatu," an animal of the armadillo family. It was roasted in its own shell, and proved as delicious a morsel as could delight the palate of an epicure. After halting an hour we continued our journey, accompanied by an Argentine officer * A number of wagons transporting produce or merchandise. 344 SAUSE. QUEBRACHO. and two soldiers as escort, and at 8 P.M. reached Quebracho Solo, a spot, as its name indicates, marked by a single tree. Here we halted, as one of our soldiers pretended to be ill. I was pro- voked, for I had hopes during the night to reach the next military post, and almost wished for the yell of an Indian, which I knew would prove a panacea for the man's feigned illness. But it was useless to remonstrate ; so, settling ourselves upon the plain, with saddle-blanket for bed, and saddle for pillow, with poncho for over-all, and the starry heavens for canopy, we soon dropped into a sleep not disturbed so much by fear of Indians as by cold, mus- quitoes, and innumerable insects. By 4 A.M. the sick soldier had entirely recovered, and, continuing our journey, we reached Que- bracho at 9 o'clock A.M., distant from Eomero thirty -six miles, and from Sause sixty-seven. "We were now within the Province of Oordova, but none could inform us where lay the dividing line. One declared it to be near this post, another that it was twelve miles east. At Sause we saw a domesticated guanaco a beautiful animal, and easily tamed when young. They are highly valued for their wool and hides ; but the country people consider their flesh indifferent food. Yast numbers of them are found in the west provinces, but up to Quebracho we saw but one flock, and that was flying over the plain as if pursued by mounted Indians or gauchos, from which we presumed that the watchman on duty espied us before we saw his charge.* Arriving at Quebracho we had made one hundred and twenty- seven miles from Santa Fe, traveling the whole distance through an unbroken plain. Its solitude was undisturbed except by the military post and Abipone village to which I have alluded, and the passage occasionally of a deer,