^ ^"n \ jr THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID -^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/daysdeerOOscrorich DAYS OF DEER-STALKING WKiB ^ mmMm-^TMkmimm^ r yO wY^/y^^i^ QSZ^^}/?.-e{ c^ ^rs-' ^^^/P4 LONDON : HAl/lILTOl^ ADA^MS ir 0° GI.ASGOW . THCMAS L/ M0R7G0M. Days of Deer- Stalking IF THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS Including an Account of the Nature and Habits of the Red Deer a Description of the Scottish Forests, and Historical Notes on the Earlier Field-Sports of Scotland. With Highland Legends, Superstitions, Traditions, Folk-Lore, and Tales of Poachers and Freebooters. BY William Scrope, Esq. Author of "Days and Nights of Salmon Fishing" ILL US TEA TED BY SIR EDWIN AND CHARLES LANDSEER LONDON: HAMILTON, ADAMS k CO. GLASGOW: THOMAS D. MORISON 1883 Among the works published in connection with field-sports in Scot- land, probably none have been more sought after than those two most interesting books by Mr. Scrope, namely, "Days of Deer- Stalking" and " Days and Nights of Salmon Fishing," and yet it may be said that no works in that departments of Uterature have been more difficult to get. Indeed, their scarcity has been so great as fre- quently, when inquired for, to cause the remark, that it is almost in vain to go in^quest of either. Again, when copies do happen to come into the market, they command such prices as to startle persons of moderate ideas, notwithstanding the very high interest and intrinsic value attaching to them. Such considerations have suggested the repubhcation of the first named book. Since its original issue some changes have taken place with regard to minor matters, but the great scope of the work is as interesting and fascinating as ever. The points of interest are exceedingly varied in character, and meet the tastes of a wide circle. Whether one's bent leads in the direction of field-sports, natural history, topography, antiquities, or historical lore in connection with the Highlands in general, the reader, more especially if he be interested in Scottish incident, will find a charm and a source of interesting information in the volume not surpassed in such respects by any work of the kind. m31 5^451 PEE F A C E " Shall a poaching, hunting, hawking 'squire presume to trespass on the fields of literature ?" These words, or others of similar import, I remember to have encountered in one of our most distinguished reviews. They ring still in my ears, and fill me with apprehension as it is ; but they would alarm me much more if I had attempted to put my foot within the sacred enclosures alluded to. These are too full of spring traps for my ambition, and I see " this is to give notice " written in very legible characters, and take warning accordingly. Literature ? — Heaven help us ! — far from it ; I have no such presumption ; I have merely attempted to describe a very interesting pursuit as nearly as possible in the style and spirit in which I have always seen it carried on. Ten years' successful practice in the forest of AthoU have enabled me to enter into all the details that are connected with deer-stalking. That it is a chase which throws all our other field-sports far in the back-ground, and, indeed makes them appear wholly insignificant, no one who has PBEFACE. been initiated in it will attempt to deny. The beautiful motions of the deer, his picturesque and noble appearance, his sagacity, and the skilful generalship which can alone ensure success in the pursuit of him, keep the mind in a constant state of pleasurable excitement. Those arts which are the most successful for killing the stag will apply to almost all other wild quadrupeds of the nobler sort ; and a correct acquaintance with them might possibly be the means of saving many an adventurer's life, whose actual sustenance, and that of his companions, depended on his skill in hunting. In exploring unknown regions for the advancement of science, or cast, as men may be, on a desolate shore, how necessary, how^ indispensable, is a knowledge of the huntsman's craft for the actual preservation of existence ! And yet, in such travels as I have read, I have never seen this craft fully explained, the adventurer having been under the guidance of the natives, and for the most part a novice in the business. In my narrative of deer-stalking I have not, except in one instance, noted my best success — far from it. My aim has been to confine myself to such events as I thought best calculated to illustrate a diversion, which all sports- men, who have the means in their power, are now pursuing with unabating ardour. PBEFAGE. 9 I have thouMit it desirable to describe the motions of the red deer under every variety of pursuit and danger to them ; to set forth their great sagacity and self-possession ; their courage and noble bearing ; the bay ; the method in which they are prepared for being taken home ; and many particulars relating to their natural history and habits. I have attempted also to illustrate all the essential points that occur in stalking deer, both in slow and quick time, and to describe all the various turns and accidents of the chase drawn from actual experience. This, I thought, could be best done by the recital of moderate sport, since a lonor catalogue of deer, killed in succession on the same day, unaccompanied by some striking or unusual incident, would only be a tedious repetition of events similar to each other. In practice, however, I did my best, as fine venison was always in request. If my success was occa- sionally very considerable, it must be recollected that the deer were numerous, and that I was assisted by clever scouts. The being my own stalker, also, was an advantage that long practice enabled me to profit from : no one, I think, can make the best of events when his move- ments are controlled by others, and are a mystery to himself. To the courtesy of the noblemen and gentlemen, pro- 10 PEE FACE. prietors of the various magnificent deer forests in Scotland, I am indebted for the short descriptions I have given of them, and they are inserted nearly as I received them, with a due and lasting sense of the honour and obligation that has been conferred upon me ; the account of the forest of Atholl alone has been put together wholly by myself ; with that I am pretty conversant, but not with the others. Whilst I am on. this subject, I cannot avoid expressing a regret that the communications sent to me have not done sufficient justice to the scenery they treat of, which in its wild effect, and peculiar determination of character, is admirably suited to the disposition and pursuits of its brave and romantic inhabitants. It will be seen how much I am indebted to Mr. Macneill, of Colonsay, for his very interesting account of the original Scotch greyhound, and for his picturesque description of the novel amusement of deer-coursing. I am myself unacquainted with the distinguishing characteristics of the ancient Scotch and Irish greyhound; but there are still many magnificent dogs in the possession of Scotch gentle- men and chiefs, however they may be descended; and a late celebrated sale will prove how highly some of the present breed are esteemed by the public. I have to boast of two poetical contributions, from the PREFACE. 11 Hon. Henry T. Liddell, which appear to me to be exquisitely beautiful. Mr. D'Israeli likewise has ornamented my pages with some beautiful lines, paraphrased from a translation from the Gaelic, most obligingly sent to me by the Marquis of Breadalbane. To my accomplished friend Mr. Skene, of Rubislaw, 1 am under very great obligations, not only for some valuable communications from himself, but also for other intelligence which I have obtained by his means, and through his influence. The Duchess Countess of Sutherland has condescendingly procured for me a full account of her magnificent possessions in the North, which has been most ably put together by Mr. Taylor, to whose skill and diligence I am greatly indebted. I wish my limits had permitted me to publish the whole of his interesting document ; but I have inserted the most essential parts of it, in detached places, where I thought they would be most effective, and I beg to offer my best thanks for them. A word or two I should add about the languaoje I have put into the mouths of the hillmen. It is neither the Highland nor Lowland dialect, but such, I believe, as is spoken in Perthshire. The English, which the natives of 12 PEE FACE. this country have, is daily improving by their intercourse with sportsmen and their followers from the South, and they now intermix their sentences with many words spoken as correctly as they are in any part of England. The superstitions and traditions which form some portion of the following pages, being current in the country, have probably found their way into other publications ; of this I know nothing — it may or may not be so — I can only say that I had them from the best authorities, and from the fountain-head. It has come, however, to my know- ledge, since I have sent these pages to the press, that the trial of Duncan Terig has been mentioned in Sir W. Scott's Demonology. Had I known this before, I should not perhaps have dwelt so long upon the story, interesting as it is. As to the graphic illustrations of the sport, I am happy to say that I have had the benefit of the talents of two most eminent gentlemen of the same family; the fron- tispiece and vignette are from the celebrated hand of Edwin Landseer. The figures and animals in the litho- graphs are, with one exception only, drawn by Charles Landseer, author of " The Parting Benediction," and other well-known splendid works. The exception is the plate which represents the " Looking for a Wounded Deer," for PEE FACE. 13 the whole of which, as well as for the landscape part, in every subject introduced, the author alone is responsible. They are not correct views, but only general recollections of the forest scenery. None of the figures are intended for portraits. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Descriptive character of the red deer — Royal harts — Shedding and page renewal of the horns — Weight of deer — Donald MacKay's deer-trap — Rutting season — Combats of stags — Deer stalked while fighting — Calving of hinds — Shyness and defensive instincts of deer — The hay — Traditional longevity — Red deer venison — Sir Walter Scott's Letter — Singular instance of a stag's ferocity — Deer-drive in Atholl in 1563 — Hunting the stag — Deer-stalking, . 25 CHAPTER II. Start from Blair Castle — Bruar Lodge — A comrade- joins — Ascent of Ben Dairg — Ptarmigans — Forest scenery — Spirit-stirring interest — A hart discovered — Manoeuvring — Wading a burn — Getting a quiet shot — Dogs slipped — The bay in a moun- tain cataract — Dogs in peril — Death and gralloching of the deer — Cruel death of a deer-hound — Origin and antiseptic property of peat bogs — Ascent of Ben-y-venie — A herd dis- covered — Plan and manoeuvring — Alarm and movements of the deer — An injudicious shot — A successful one — A deer- hound slipped — Bay — Strange adventure — A wild huntsman Encounter with a bear — Loss of a huge salmon — Tiie Gown- cromb of Badenoch and his story, 53 CHAPTER III. Forests of Badenoch, their rights and divisions — Legend of Prince Charles — Cluny Macpherson — Adventure with a wolf — Mac- pherson of Braekally — Children lost on a moor — Sportsmen benighted — Witchcraft — Uncomfortable position — Fraser's cairn — Boundaries of Gawick — Fate of Walter Gumming — Wrath of a fairy — Destructive avalanche — Convivial resolu- tion — Arrival at Bruar Lodge during the night-storm, . 99 CHAPTER IV. Necessary qualifications for a deer-stalker — Curious attitudes re- quired — Sleep almost superfluous — Advantages of baldness — Self-possession indispensable — Abstinence from drinking, and restrictions in food — Gormandiser's x^a^stime — Royal 16 CONTENTS. diversion — Sportsman's pliilosoplay — George Ritchie the page fiddler — Crafty movements — Currents of air — Passing diffi- cult ground — Range of the rifle — Firing at the target — Tempestuous winds — A tyro's distress — Overwhelming kindness — Of speed and wind — John Selwyn — Wilson the historian — Glengary, 112 CHAPTER V. A Scotch mist — Visions of auld lang syne — Retrospect — The mist clears — How to carry the spare rifles — Storm in the moun- tains — Sportsmen struck by a thunderbolt — "Willie Robert- son's lament — Macintyre's death — Deer seen on the move — Vamped up courage — Making a dash — Unexpected success — Dogs fighting, 130 CHAPTER VI. The forest of AthoU — Probable number of deer, and their size — Cumyn's cairn — Highland vengeance — Fatal accident — Principal glens — Glen Tilt — Marble quarries — Roe deer — Lakes and lodges — Merry foresters — Forest song — Cuirn- Marnick — Last execution at Blair — Arrest of a murderer — Royal feasting and hunting — Palace in the forest, and Highland cheer — Burning of the palace — Kilmavonaig beer — Cumming's death — Belief in witchcraft — M. G. Lewis's legendary tale of the Witch of Ben-y-gloe, .... 142 CHAPTER VII. Deer drive to Glen Tilt — Anticipated sport — The deer- stalker's rhymes — The start from Bruar Lodge — Combat of stags — Cautious exploring — Stalking the great Braemar hart — The shot and bay — Preparation for driving the deer — Dalnacardoc chamois — A French sportsman — The ambuscade, skirmish, and slaughter — Shot at the black deer — The party assembled The last hart brought to bay — The bay broken — The death- shot— A carpet knight — Condoling with a victim — TheCount's adventure — Chase and capture of a poacher — A quiet shot — Granting a favour — Termination of the day's sport, . . 166 CHAPTER VIII. Forest contracts — Wandering poachers — English vagabonds — Adventure at Felaar — Highland vampire — Peter Breck's backsliding — Trap baited with whiskey — The Gaig pet stolen — Poacher's adventure — Desolate stituation — A Highland witch — Chisholm's cave — Freebooter's life — John More — Sutherland monster — A priest in jeopardy — Highland Robin Hood — Our-na-kelig — The widow's hospitality — Rival CONTENTS. 17 poachers in AthoU — Adventure in Glen Tilt — Eob Doun — page Curious trial for murder — A polyglot ghost — Ghost no lawyer, 191 CHAPTEK IX. Broad awake — Arrangements for the day — A ticklish point — Serpentine movements — Disappointment — White kid gloves — Contest of skill — Escape of the deer — Good sport — Close combat — A ride on a stag — Kemarkable prowess — Contest with a phoca — The drive begins — Shots and untoward acci- dent — Corrie's sagacity and night watch — The coup d'essai — Past deeds — Eagles killed by a boy — Driving the herd — Legend of Eraser's cau-n — The Lord of Lovat's Raid — Strong taint of deer — Nervous excitement — Ambuscade at the wood — Noble sport — The old Blair pony — Return to the castle, . 215 CHAPTER X. Original Scotch greyhound — Fingal and his retinue — Bran and Phorp — Their death — The lurcher — Glengarry's dogs — Of blooding deer-hounds — Four-footed Hannibal — Sir Wilham St. Clair's dogs, 241 CHAPTER XL Occupation of Forest Lodge — Autumnal blasts — Sullen fuel — The sport begins — Deer-stalker distressed — A sharp walk — Lying in ambush — The fatal spot reached — Herd in jeopardy — Peter Fraser's humanity — His penmanship — The lament —The moors, 249 CHAPTER XII. Dogs of ancient Britain — Irish dogs sent to Rome — Early Scot- tish dogs — Sculptured stones at Meigle — the Miol-chu — The mastiff and greyhound — Recreation of Queen Elizabeth — Dogs of Epirus — Irish wolf-dog — Proportions of a deer-hound — Failure of crosses in breeding — Deer dogs of Colonsay, and dimensions of Buskar — Expedition from Colonsay — Cavern scene — Wild scenery in Jura — Stag discovered — Stalking him — The start and course — His death — Speed and bottom of deer-hounds — Decay of the ancient race, . . 260 FORESTS OF SCOTLAND. The Sutherland Forests. — Dirrie-Chatt and its boundaries — Forest of Dirrie-more, its character and limits — Number of deer — Deer dykes — Wolves in Sutherland — Death of the last wolf — Traditions of Fingal — Slaughter of a wild boar — Dermid and Grana — Angus BaiUie — The humble garron, . 279 18 CONTENTS, Forests and Deer-hamits in Boss-shire. — Gairlocli — Balnagown page Forest — Easter Ross, Calrossie, and Coigach — Isles of Harris and Lewis, 290 Account of Coul. — Uncouth fire-arms, 293 Forest of Apjplecross. — The Laird's sport, 295 Forest of Glengarry, — Sagacity of a blood-hound — Wild work, . 297 The Duke of Gordon's Deer Forests. — Glenfeshie — Gawick — Glenfiddich — Glenmore, etc., 298 Forest of Invercauld, formerly royal — Weight of deer, etc., . 300 Forest of Marr. — Wild boar and rein-deer — Battue of the olden time, 304 Forest of Corrichibah. — Number and condition of deer — Mode of killing them — Translations from the GaeUc poetry of Duncan Macintyre — Spring in Bendouran — Lament for the deUoimist, 307 Forest of Glenartney. — Boundaries — Weight of deer, etc., . 312 The Forest of Jura. — Description of Tarbet — Deer crossing to Islay, etc., 313 The Isle of Skye and North Uish. — Number of deer — Method of killing them, etc., 316 Loch Etive and Dalness. — Tradition concerning a white hind — adventure and disastrous death of a poacher, etc., . . 316 APPENDIX. Highest Hills in the Forest of AthoU, 318 Evidence relating to the Trial of Duncan Terig, alias Oierk, and Alexander Bain Macdonald, for the Murder of Sergeant Davies, 320 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Frontispiece— Fighting Harts— A Forest Joust. By | Edwin Landseer, .... 2. Title-Vignette— Group of Dogs — Buscar, a Highland Deer-hound, of the original breed, belonging to ^^ , I precede Mr. MacNeill: a Fox-hound, Blood-hound, and ^^^ printed ' Title. Greyhound — from crosses of which the modern Deer - hound is obtained — and a Tender. By Edwin Landseer, 3. Getting a Quiet Shot, To face page 66 4. Deer at bay in a Torrent, .... „ 70 5. Looking for a Wounded Deer, ... „ 90 6. Left behind in a Dubious Position, . . „ 126 7. Lifting the Deer out of a Bum, ... ,, 142 8. The Witch of Ben-y-gloe, .... „ 162 9. East from Blair Castle, „ 166 10. Coming in for a Shot, . . ^ . . . „ 174 11. Shots from Caim-cherie, .... „ 224 12. Preparing the Deer for being left on the Moor, „ 256 My heart's in the Highlands, my heart is not here ; My heart's in the Highlands a hunting the deer ; A chasing the wild deer, and following the roe, My heart's in the Highlands wherever I go." — Old Song, DAYS OF DEER-STALKING. DAYS OF DEER-STALKING. CHAPTER I. OF THE NATURE AND HABITS OF THE RED DEER. Descriptive character of the red deer. — Royal harts.— Shedding and renewal of the horns. —Weight of deer.— Donald M'Kay's deer-trap.— Rutting season.— Combats of stags, — Deer stalked while fighting. — Calving of hinds. — Shyness and defensive instincts of deer.— The bay.— Traditional longevity. —Red deer venison.— Sir W. Scott's letter. — Singular instance of a stag's ferocity.— Deer-drive in AthoU in 1563.— Hunting the stag.— Deer-stalking. I am a hart by Greekes surnamed so, Because my head doth with their tearmes agree ; For stately shape few such on earth do goe, So that by right they have so termed me. For king's delight it seems I was ordayned, Whose huntsmen yet pursue me day by day, In forrest, chace, and parke, I am constrained Before their hounds to wander many a way. Wherefore who lyst to learne the perfect trade Of venerie, and therewith all would know What properties and virtues nature made In me poor hart (0 harmless hart !) to grow, Let him give ear to skilfull Trystram's lore To Phoebus, Fowylloux, and many more.* " Cervus Elaphus, cornihus ramosis, teretibus, recurvatis" — Linn. Eight cutting teeth in the upper jaw, and none in the lower. Stags are found in all the northern regions, Lapland, perhaps, excepted ; in Asia, especially in Tartary, and in the northern provinces of China; they are also found in America. Those of Canada dilFer from ours only in the length of their horns, and direction of their antlers, which are not so straight as with us, but are turned backward, so that the end of each points to the stem of the horns. * The noble Art of Venerie, translated from the French, p. 39. 3 26 DAYS OF DEEB-STALKING. The colour varies slightly, but is usually of a reddish brown, nearly black about the face, mingled with grey; a dark list down the hind part of the neck and between the shoulders, and a light sort of buff colour between the haunches and underneath. The horns vary in size and number of branches ; partly owing to the age of the animal, and partly from other causes ; and it must be remarked, that deer with few points to their horns are sometimes larger and fatter than those with many branches. In the forest of Atholl we had no technical names for harts of different ages; but they are thus distinguished by park-keepers, and by those gentlemen who keep stag-hounds in England : — Before deer are one year old they are called (male and female) Calves;* after one year old the male is termed a Brocket; at three, a Sjyire; at four, a Staggart; at five, a Stag; and at six a luarrantahle Stag. He may afterwards be called a Hart. The female, after one year old, is termed a Hearst ; and at three years old a young Hind. The female does not cohabit with the male till three years old. She never has more than one calf at a time, though the contrary opinion has been entertained. The stag's brow bay and tray antlers are termed his Rights; the upright points on the top of his horns are called Crockets ; the horn itself the Beam ; the width the Span ; the rough part of the base the Pearls.f A Brocket has only knobbers, and small brow antlers ; a Sjyire, brow and uprights; a Staggart, brow, tray, and uprights ; a five-year old, brow, bay, and tray ; two on top, that is, a crocket on one horn, and an upright on the other. A warrantable Stag has brow, bay, and tray, and two points on the top of both horns. After this age their heads vary very much in appearance. * Some limit the term of calf to six months only. t I am aware that these terms do not exactly correspond with those mentioned in all the old authorities, neither do the latter always accord with each other. I have taken my nomenclature from the Devonshire Hunt, as the best authority. It has been founded considerably above a century. Wriothesly, second Duke of Bedford, is the first person to whom it can be traced : he died at Tavistock, in 1711. There are about S13 deer in all the covers. Seventy were killed by the late Lord Graves in two .seasons. BOYAL HARTS. 27 If the impression of a deer's foot measures full two inches ^t the heel, he is warrantable; if three inches, and the hoofs mark deeply in the ground, allowing for its nature, he is a large, heavy, old deer. Such bring up their hind feet to the impression made by their fore ones. The tread of a hind is much narrower and longer than that of the male, particularly at the toe, whilst the hart's is broad and round at that point, instead of being narrow. " Then, if he ask, what slot or view I found, I say the slot or view was long on ground ; The toes were great, the joynt bones round and short, The shinne bones large, the dew-claws close in port : Short joynted was he, hollow-footed eke, An hart to hunt as any man can seeke." — Art of Venerie. The mark of a deer's tread is called his slot; his haunt is termed his lair; where he lies down, his harbour or bed; where he rolls himself, his soiling pool ; his breaking place over a hedge, his rack; when he goes to water it is called going to soil ; if headed back, it is called blanched ; if he stops in a river, or lies down in a pool, during the chase, it is called sinking himself. Harts that are crowned with three points at the upper extremity of each horn are termed royal. We read, also, of the hart royal proclaimed. Manwood mentions a fact, which he found on record in the Castle of Nottingham : it is dated in the time of Richard I., who, having roused a hart in the forest of Sherwood, pursued him as far as Barnsdale in Yorkshire, where the animal foiled and escaped his hounds. The king, in gratitude for the diversion he had received, ordered him to be immediately proclaimed at Tickill, and at all the neighbouring towns, the purport of which was to forbid any one to molest him, that he might have free liberty to return to his forest. " Some gentlemen, in the time of Henry III., havino-