THE 1 IBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CAL [FORNIA LOS ANGELES -Note. The figures ftfter the names'denate ihe, page in- the {hdde.Jiook where the places are described Railways -*- Roads PICTURESQUE GUIDE ENGLISH LAKES INCLUDING THE GEOLOGY OF THE DISTRICT, BY JOHN PHILLIPS, M.A., LL.D., P.B.S., F.G.S. PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. OUTLINE VIEWS BY MR. FLINTOFT. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BIRKET FOSTER. FOURTEENTH EDITION. EDINBUEGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 1866. Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh. DA PREFACE TO FOURTEENTH EDITION. The new line of railway between Penrith, Keswich and CocJcermouth, having greatly increased the facilities for visiting the Lake District, and especially Derwent- water, additional hotel accommodation is being provided at Keswick and other places by the Cumberland Hotel Company. Besides the new large hotel at Keswick Station, another, named the Queen's, has been erected on the site of the old Queen's Head Hotel in the village. A new hotel has also been erected at High Lodore, named the Borrowdale Hotel. We may repeat that the Essay on the Geology of the Lake District was revised by the author for last edition (1865), and that on the present edition several alterations have been made throughout the text, as well as on the Map and CJutrts. EDINBUEGH, April 1866. CONTENTS. PACK Explanation of Engravings, Maps, and Outline Views ix Index to Mountains in Outline Views . . . xi Glossary, General Terms, Names of Places, etc. . . xiii Notes on Passes xxvii Loss of Mr. Butler at the Great Gable . . . ' . xxviii Hotels Charges, Conveyances, Boats, etc. . . xxx-xxxii Introductory Information . . . . . . 1 Kendal 7 Walks and Excursions from Kendal . . . . 11 Longsleddale and Hawes Water 16 Windermere Bowness ..... Circuit of Windermere from Bowness Walks and Excursions from Bowness 18 21 24 31 Vi CONTENTS. Ambleside Walks and Excursions from Ambleside .... Loughrigg Fell ........ Troutbeck Eydal, Grasmere, Easdale, and Thirlemere Grasmere The Langdale Excursion from Ambleside Millbeck to the Summit of the Pikes .... WansfellPike Ambleside to Coniston Coniston Old Man ........ Furness Abbey Excursion Ulverston . . . Walks and Excursions from Ulverston .... Ulverston to Furness Abbey Broughton ' . . . Broughton to Seathwaite and Ambleside by Koad . Ambleside to Keswick Thirlemere ......... Keswick Walks and Excursions from Keswick .... Derwentwater , Keswick by the Lake-side to Borrowdale Continuation of this tour by Honister Crag, Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes Water, returning by the Vale of Lorton or the Vale of Newland . . 116 Buttermere 120 Crummock Water . . . 123 Lowes Water 125 Keswick to Vale of St. John 127 Keswick to Wastwater 131 Wastwater 133 Scawfell 134 Wastdale Head to Buttermere by Passes of Black Sail and ScarfGap 138 Skiddaw 140 Blencathara or Saddleback 143 Ulls water Penrith to Patterdale , 147 CONTENTS. Til PAGE Pooley Bridge 148 Patterdale 154 Patterdale to Ambleside by Kirkstone Pass . . . 157 Helvellyn 158 High Street 162 Penrith 166 Walks and Excursions from Penrith . . . .170 Brougham Castle 172 Mayborough . . 179 Dacre Castle 181 Eden Hall 185 Lowther Castle 186 Greystoke Castle 193 Excursion to Hawes Water 195 Walk from Lowther Vale to Patterdale . . . .199 Whitehaven 201 Excursions from Whitehaven ..... 204 St. Bees 204 St. Bees to Ennerdale Lake 206 St. Bees Egremont to Wastwater .... 210 Calder Bridge . 211 ITINERARY. I. Ulverston Coniston Lake Ambleside 213 II. Eendal Bowness Hawkshead 1 - Coniston .... 214 III. Kendal to Ambleside 215 IV. Ambleside Eydal Grasmere Tliirlemere Keswiek . . 216 V. Ambleside Langdale Eskdale Egremont Whitehaven . 218 VI. Whitehaven Cockermouth Bassenthwaite Lake Keswiek . 220 VII. Keswiek Borrowdale Buttermere Scale Hill Cockermouth 221 VIII. Keswiek Borrowdale Wast Water Egremont . . .224 IX. Keswiek Threlkeld Penrith . . . . . . .225 X. Penrith Ulleswater Patterdale Kirkstone Ambleside . 226 XI. Penrith Snap Kendal 227 VJii CONTENTS. ' GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. PAGE GENERAL STRUCTURE 229 DISTRICT OF THE LOWEST SLATES 235 DISTRICT OF THE MIDDLE SLATES 236 DISTRICT OF THE UPPER SLATES 242 Coniston Limestone 242 Ireleth Group . . . .243 Howgill Group 244 Kirby Group 244 The Granite 245 FIRST GREAT DISTCRBANCE OF THE SEA-BED 246 OLD BED STRATA 249 CALCAREO CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM OF STRATA 251 Mountain Limestone The Thick Lower Limestone The Upper Limestone Millstone Grit Group Coal Formation . . 251 SECOND GREAT INTERVAL OF DISTURBANCE 255 NEW BED SANDSTONE 256 DILUVIAL AND GLACIO-DILUVIAL DEPOSITS . . . . . 258 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . 262 SYNOPSIS OF MOUNTAINS, LAKES, AND WATERFALLS .... 272 MEMORANDA FOR BOTANISTS 274 MISCELLANEOUS 278 NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS 279-285 INDEX ,..,... 287 EXPLANATION OF ENGRAVINGS, MAP, CHARTS, AND MR. FLINTOFT'S OUTLINE VIEWS. ULLSWATER. By T. M. RICHARDSON. Of the two steel engravings which embellish this volume, the first is a view of Ullswater, taken from an elevated part of Gow- barrow Park. The Birk Fell promontory is seen projecting from the east shore to the island called House Holm, beyond which Wall Holm spots the water. Above the latter islet is Bilberry Crag, backed by St. Sunday's Crag. To the right of House Holm, Stybarrow Crag overhangs the margin of the lake. For the names of the other mountain summits, the Tourist is referred to the outline engraving taken from the Matterdale road. In the extreme right, Helvellyn towers aloft. The glens which run up from the lake will be readily recognised. First, on the right of Stybarrow Crag there is Glencoyn ; the extremity of Glenridding is perceived over House Holm, with Glenridding House on the border of the water ; Grisedale commences ou the left of Bilberry Crag, whilst Deepdale is seen over the Birk Fell promontory. DERWENTWATER. By the late MONTAGUE STANLEY, R.S.A. The other steel engraving represents the upper section of Derwentwater, and the mountains surrounding the head of that lake. Immediately below the eye is the boat-house on Barrow promontory ; beyond is Lodore Hotel ; and to the left the cele- brated cascade falling . between Shepherd's Crag and Gowder Crag. Castle Crag occupies a conspicuous situation at the head of the lake ; Brund Fell rises behind, and further back still is Glaramara. A little to the right, Scawfell Pike pierces the air. A small portion of St. Herbert's Isle is visible, the rest being concealed by some trees in the foreground. WOOD ENGRAVINGS. The engravings on wood are from the pencil of Mr. Birket Foster. EXPLANATION OF ENGRAVINGS, ETC. MAP. The heights of the principal mountains in feet are annexed to their names. Bye-roads are marked thus === = = Foot-roads and mountain tracks The line dividing counties The dotted lines beyond the coast line indicate the extent of sand dry at low water. Churches and chapels are marked with a cross . X Waterfalls . [| CHARTS. Pagb Windermere, Coniston, Grasmere, and Rydal Lakes . . 20 Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Lake .... 107 Buttermere Lake, Crummock Lake, and Lowes Water . . 124 Wast Water 133 Ullswater, and Hawes Water 152 58 MR. FLINTOFTS OUTLINE VIEWS OF MOUNTAIN GROUPS. NO PAGE .1. Mountains at the head of Windermere, as seen from the \ north end of Belle Isle > 34 2. Mountains as seen from BLsket How, Bowness . . ) 8. Mountains surrounding Grasmere and Rydal Vales, as seen from Red Bank , 4. Mountains at the head of Coniston Lake, as seen near Tent Lodge, on the road from Coniston to Ulverston . 5. Mountains forming the Skiddaw group at the foot of Der- ) wentwater, as seen from the Hotel at Lodore . . > 112 6. Mountains surrounding Derwentwater, seen from Latrigg ) 7. Mountains on Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, as seen from the Knots, near the Victoria Hotel, Buttermere . 8. Mountains on Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, as seen from the seat in Lanthwaite Wood, Scale Hill INDEX TO MOUNTAINS, ETC. XI 9. Mountains at the head of Ullswater, as seen from the Matterdale road, near Lyulph's Tower Gowbarrow Park ......... 10. Mountains at the head of Ullswater, as seen from the Slate Quarry at Blowick, near Patterdale 1 1. Mountains at the head of Hawes Water, as seen from \ Burn Banks, near the foot ..... f 12. Mountains surrounding Wast Water, as seen from near I Strands Inn (Nether Wastdale), at the foot . . ) 156 INDEX TO THE MOUNTAINS AND PLACES DEPICTED IN MR. FLINTOFT'S OUTLINE VIEWS, WITH THE No. OP THE VIEW IN WHICH THEY WILL BE FOUND. No. of No. of View. View. Applethwaite Common 1 Castlehead . 5,6 Barf 5 Catbell . . 5,6 Barrow 6 Causey Pike 1 Barrow House 5 Cawdale Moor . 10 Binsey 5 Codale Moor . 1,2 Birks 9,10 Crincle Crags . . 2 Blake Fell 8 Deep Dale Park . 9 Bleaberry Crag 9,10 Derwent Isle 5 Bleaberry Tarn . 7,8 Dod 5 Blea Crag 6 Dolly Waggon Pike 3,10 Bleas Tnn . 10 Dove Crags 1,2,9 Blennerhassett . 11 Dovecrags, Hartsop 4 Borrowdale, road to 7 Eagle Crag . 10 Bowfell . 2 Ennerdale and Wastwater, Branstree . . 11 road to . 8 Brand . . 6 Fairfield . 2,6,9 Buckbarrow . 4 Falcon Crag . 5,6 Buckbarrow Pike . . 12 Floutern . . 12 Burn Bank 8 Fordingdale . 11 Buttennere Moss . 7 Forest-side Fell . 3 Calva in Skiddaw Forest 3 Froswick . . 1,2 Carling Knot 8 Gatecrag . 6 Carlside . 5 Glaramara . 2,6 Carsleddam 5 Glen Coin . 9,10 Carrs 4 Glenridding Dod . . 9,10 Castle Crag 6,11 Glenridding . 10 Xll INDEX TO MOUNTAINS, ETC. No. of No. of View. View. Gowbarrow Park . 9 Littledale Pike 5 Grey Crag on Ayes Water 1,2 Littledale Pike, Skiddaw 3 Grasmoor . 6,8 Long Crag 4 Great End '. 2, 6, 8, 12 Lougside . 5 Great Gable . 2, 7, 8, 12 Lonscale Fell 5 Great Rigg . ] ,2,3 Lord's Isle 5 Green-head Gliyll 3 Lough rigg Fell . 1,2 Green Crag 7 Loweswater 8 Green Gable 7,8 Maiden Moor 6 Grizedale . 9, 10 Mellbreak . 7,8 Grizedale House . 3 Middle Fell 7, 12 Grizedale Pike 6 Moss Crag 4 Hall Bank 9 Nab Scar 1, 2, 3 Hanging Knot . 6 NanBield -. - . 11 Harrison's Stickle 2 Old Man 4 Barter Fell" 11 Orrest Head 1 Hartsop Dod . , 10 Oxen Fell 4 Hay Stacks 7 Pass to Grasmere . 10 Haw 1 Pass into Kentmere 7 Helm Crag 2,3 Patterdale Hall . 10 Helvellyn . 10, 3 Paveyark . 2 Hen Comb 7 fi 7, o Pike of Stickle . 2 Hen Holm Isle 1 Place Fell . . 9,10 Herring Pike 9, 10 Point of Ullock . 5 High Crag . ,7,8 Pyat Crag . 11 High Raise 2,4 Raise . 10 High Stile . 6 ,7,8 Raise Gap . 1, 3 High Street . 1, 2, 11 Ranipsholiri Isle . 5 Hind Side . - 2 Rannerdale Knot . . 7,8 Hindscarth . 6 Raven Crag! 4 Honister Crag 7,8 Rawlin End 6 111 Bell . 1,2 Red Pike . 7,8 Ill Crag . 6 Red Screes . 1, 3, 9, 10 Jenkin HilJ 5 Riggindaie Crag . . 11 Keppell Cove Head 10 Robinson . 6 Kidsey Pike 11 Rough Holm Isle . 1 Kirk Fell 7,8 Rydal Head . 1,2 Kirkstone Pass 10 Rydal Park 3 Knot End 4 Sail 6 Knots 6 Scale Force 7 Lad Crag . . 11 Scale Hill, road to 7 Lady Holm Isle . 6 Scarf Gap 7 Latrigg 5 Scaw . 7,8 Lingmell . 12 Scawfell Pike . 2, 6, 8, 12 Linguioor 2 Scaw Fell . 6,12 Lingmoor, Langdale 5 Screes . 12 INDEX TO MOUNTAINS, OTC. XI 11 No. of No. of View. View. Seat Sandal 3 Tarn Crag : 10 Serjeant Man, Easdale 3 Ullskarth . 2,3 Silver How . 2, 3 Uterside . 6 Skelwith . . 2 Yewbarrow 12 Skiddaw . . 2,5 Yewdale and Tilberthwaite 4 Skiddaw Low Man : 5 Yewdale Crag 4 Steel Fell . . 2, 3 Yoke 1,2 St. Herbert's Isle 5 Wallow Crag 6,11 St. Sunday Crag . . 9, 10 Walney Scar . 4 Stybarrow Crag 9 Wansf ell Pike 1,2 Striding Edge . 10 Wetherlam 4 Sty Head Pass . 12 Whinlatter Gap and road Swineside 5,6 to Scale Hill 6 Swineside in Lorton 6 Whinlatter 6 i AND LOCAL APPELLATIVES OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. IT has been conceived that a short chapter on the probable derivation and connection of the names of places in the Lake District would prove interesting, not only to the professed etymologist, but in some degree, also, to the majority of travellers in this region. The infor- mation attempted to be conveyed is such as most of those visiting a new country desire to possess, inasmuch as it translates unmeaning sounds, having reference to places with which they become on terms of familiar acquaintance, into significant expressions. The pleasure of a traveller in Germany is sensibly increased by even so slight a knowledge of the language as enables him to understand the local names, which, in that country, are compounded, for the most part, of words in common use. Ehrenbreitstein (the broad stone of honour), and Sckwarzwald (Black Forest), are well-known instances. The same pleasure, and to the same extent, would probably arise from an elucidation of the names of places in England, were it not for the uncertainty, springing from several causes, which here attends ques- tions of this nature, and for the consciousness of licence thus afforded to a speculative interpreter. We hope, that in giving the following explanations, we shall be found neither to wander beyond the limits of probability, nor to assist by the remoteness, or the fanciful nature XJV ON LOCAL APPELLATIVES. of suggested derivations, to bring ridicule upon a pursuit, which, as cultivated on the Continent, has already assumed the rank of a science, under the name of Comparative Grammar. We have had to support no favourite theory or hypothesis as to the predominance of any one language in the country (though it is singular how many traces of Scandinavian dialects are met with) ; and the rules which we have observed in drawing up the glossary given below, were the following : When various languages contained words, apparently derived from some common root, to which a local appellative seemed allied, we have collected such words, but have not ventured to state posi- tively from which particular one the local name has descended. When several tongues or a single language, offered inconsistent, but equally plausible originals, we have placed the equivocal types side by side. In cases where the derivation is obvious at first sight, or where loose conjectures only have suggested themselves, we have not hazarded tne reader's impatience. By way of enlivening a tedious subject, we have illustrated the use of several words by quotations from various writers, ancient and modern. GENEBAL TERMS. BAND ; the summit of a minor hill. Bant, Welsh, a height Beann, Gaelic, a hill. The word is thought to be allied to Pen, Celtic. Examples Taylor's Gill Band, Borrowdale ; Swirl Band, Tilberthwaite Fell ; Randerson Band, Borrowdale. One of the seven summits of Mount Pilatus in Switzerland is called Band. It is worth notice that Band or Bund, signifies in Hindostanee a mound or embankment. " Himself ascendis the Me land of the hill." DOUGLAS. BARHOW ; a hill. Beorh, Beorg, Anglo-Saxon. Examples Underbarrow ; Latter- barrow. BECK ; a stream, a brook. Becc, Ang.-Sax. Beck, Danish Bach, German. The word ia universally used throughout the district. In Switzerland there are the Staub&ocA, the ReicheniocA, &c. " The bournes, the brooks, the becks, the rills, the rivulets." POLYOLBIOX. BRANT FELL ; steep fell. Example Brant Fell, near Bowness. " A man may, I graunte (says old Ascham, in his ' Toxophilus'), sit 01 a brante hill side, but if he give never so little forward, he cannot stop." CAM ; the ridge or crest of a hill, analogous to the comb of a fowl. Kam, Ger. Kam, Dan., a crest or comb. Example Catstycam, otherwise Catchedecam, Helvellyn ; Rosthwaite Cam, Cam Fell, near Hawes. The first point of land discovered by shipt approaching Cadiz is the Andalusian hi)!, Cretta de Galif (Cock's Comb). COOM, a hollow in the side of a hill. XVi GENERAL TEKMS. Comb, Ang.-Sox. Cwmm, Welsh. Example Gillcrcoom, Bor- rowdale. In the south of England the word combe is applied to small valleys : " From those heights We dropp'd at pleasure into sylvan combs." EXCURSION. COVE ; a recess amongst the hills. Examples Red Cove, Keppel Cove, Helvellyn. " The coves, and mountain steeps and summits." EXCURSION. DEN, Dene ; a glen. Dene, Ang.-Sax., a valley. Example Mickleden, Langdale. DODD ; a hill with a blunt summit attached to a larger hill. Toddi Isl. integrum frustrum vel membrum rti. Examples Skiddaw Dodd ; Hartsop Dodd, Kirkstone ; Dod Fell, near Hawes. In Switzerland are mountains named Dodlihorn and Dodi. DORE ; an opening between walls of rock. Examples Lowdore, Derwentwater ; Mickledore, Scawfell. In the Pyrenees the depressions, by which egress from France into Spain is effected, are called Ports, from the Latin Porto. DUN ; a hill of secondary importance. Dun, Ang.-Sax. Hence the Downs of the south. Examples Dunmallet, Ulleswater; Dunfell. EA; Ang.-Sax., a particle signifying water, entering into composi- tion under various shapes, a, au, ay, e, ea. The French word eau, is derived, perhaps, from the Latin aqua ; and it is certain that the names of the French bathing-towns, Aix, are cor- rupted from a case of that word. In the Su. Goth., the Dan- ish, and the Swedish languages, the letter A expresses water. Examples Eamont; Esthwaite; Easdale; Hays- water. FELL ; 1. bare elevated land, answering in some respects to the wolds, moors, and downs of other parts of the island. 2. A rocky hill. Fiaell, Su. Goth , a chain of mountains Fjeld, Norwegian Fell, Icelandic, a hill Felt, Ger., a rock. The word is in common use in every part of the district " Moyses wente up on that fclle, Fonrty dayes there you dwelle." CCKSOB MUND. M.S. Coll. Trin. Camt. FORCE ; a waterfall. GUIDE TO THE LAKES. XVU Firrs, foss, Isl., a cascade Fors, Su. Goth., a cataract Forsn. Swedish, to rush. The cascades in Norway are called Fosset. Examples Stock Gill Force ; Scale Force. GATE ; Ang.-Sax., a way. Gatescarth, i. e., a hill with a road over it. Gateside ia a name given to many old houses situate near a road. GARTH : an enclosure, a garden. Geard, Ang.-Sax. Guard, Dan. Example Docker Garrs, Ken- dal. The word is usually a postfix. "Ane guidely grene garth, full of gay flouris." DUJTBAR. GILL, ghyll : a, narrow ravine with a rapid stream running through it. Gil, Isl., hiatus montium Gil, Gael, water Gal, in old German, means a stream. Examples Dungeon Gill, Langdale ; Stock Gill, Ambleside; Gill-in-grove, Kendal. Sir Walter Scott notices that Gilsland is Latinized de Vallibus, and from that barony the family of de Vaux took their name. The old poem on Flodden Field has the coarse but expressive epithet of " griesly " applied to gills. " Hie to moorish gills and rocks, Prowling wolf and wily fox." ANNOT LYLE'S Song. GR\NGE ; a large farm-house and its dependent buildings. Almost every valley has its grange. The farm-house attached to an abbey or a monastery was styled, par excellence, the grange. The word will now scarcely fail to remind the reader of " de- jected Mariana in the moated grange," since Tennyson has linked an exquisite little poem to these words of Shakspere Grangia, low latin, a granary. Examples Grange in Borrow- dale ; Hawkeshead Grange. " Because he was a man of high prudence, And eke an officer out for to ride To sen (see) her granges and her bernes wide." QUVOB. HAG : an enclosure, a wood. Haga, Ang.-Sax., an enclosure Hag, Ger., a coppice. " This said, he led me over holts and hags, Through thorns and bushes scant, my legs I drew." FAFAX' Tcisso. XVI 11 GENERAL TERMS. " The first greetings past, Edward learned from Rose Bradwardine, that the dark hag which had somewhat puzzled him, in the butler's account of his master's avocation, had nothing to do with a black cat or a broomstick, but was simply a portion of oak copse, that was to be felled that day." WAVEHLET. HAUSE ; 1. a narrow passage like a throat 2. A narrow connecting ridge like a neck. Hals, signifying in the Icelandic, Danish, German, and Anglo- Saxon languages, a neck. Al has a tendency to become aa in pronunciation, as in Walmer, Montalban, and we have fa- miliar instances in such words as walk, talk, &c. The Gene- vese Reformer's name was spelled indifferently Calvin and Cauvin. Examples 1. Walls of rock, between which a stream makes its way e. g. at Haws Bridge, Kendal. 2. Many of the passes are instances e. g. Esk Hause, Borrowdale. Hen- derson, in his History of Iceland, mentions a short but very steep mountain road in that country, called Trolla-hals, the Giant's neck. To direct attention to the analogy of languages, we may observe, that our word gorge comes from the French gorge, a neck or throat. In the Savoy there are many passes termed Cols (Col de Balme ; Col de Chamouni ; Col de Bon- homme, &c.), a word derived from the Latin, collum, a neck , and not, as might seem, from collis, a hill. In the mountain region of Sierra Nevada, Andalusia, there are several summits termed Cerro, a word explained in the dictionaries " the neck of an animal, back-bone, highland." In French the col becomes can. 11 out ; 1. an island. Holm, Ang.-Sax. and Su. Goth., an island Hoolmr, Isl., insula parva. The islets of Windermere, Ulleswater, and Derwent- water, are called holms : and there are some islets in the Bristol Channel, bearing the same name. Amongst the Orkney and Shetland islands, holm signifies a small uninhabited island. The smaller islands on the coast of Norway are termed oes. 2. The low level ground near a stream or lake. The Scotch have the word Haugh and Holm to express the same thing. Holm seems to be connected with the word that signifies water in so many languages (See Ea and Askham.) Aue and Au are German expressions for flowing water, and for land in the vicinity of water. In its first signification the words are in common use in Lower Saxony and Holstein ; in the GUIDE TO THE LAKES. xix latter meaning it was used by the Minnesingers. An island in the Rhine by Cologne bears the name of Rhein-Au, and there is a little promontory on the lake of Zurich, called Au, cele- brated by Klopstock, in one of his odes. How ; a gentle eminence within a vale- Hauff, Isl. Hague, old French, a height. Examples Butter- lip How, Grasmere ; the How, Troutbeck. K.ELD ; a spring or well. Keld, Ang.-Sax. Kaefla, Swedish. Quelle, Germ, and Dan. There are kelds in every valley usually having the epithet cold attached to them. KNOCK ; a hill. Cnoc, Gaelic and Irish, a hill Nock, prov. Germ., a peak, or rock. In Iceland, steep conical hills are termed hmip. N. B. p and c are convertible. Cnwc means a swelling in Welsh. Exam- ples Knockmurton, Lowes water ; Knock Pike, near Appleby ; Knock Craig, Dumfriesshire. KNOT; a rocky excrescence on a hill; frequently the hill itself is known by this appellation and then it consists of little moro than bare rock. Examples Hard Knot, Eskdale ; Farleton Knot, Kendal ; Arnside Knot, Milnthorpe. MAX ; the pile of stones built upon the highest point of a mountain. MERE ; a lake. Mere, Ang.-Sax. Maere. mar, Isl., a body of water. In an Ang.-Sax. poem (Codex Exon.) the sea is called the Whale- mere. NAB ; the abrupt termination of a mountainous projection ; an extrem- ity, a point. Nebbe, Ang.-Sax., a beak, a nose Neb, Dan. We speak of the nib of a pen. Examples Nab Scar, Rydal ; Nab Crag, Pat- terdale. " He questions every gust of rugged wind That blows from off each beaked promontory." LYCIDAS. NESS; a projection into a lake, a promontory. Nassw, Lat. Naesse, Ang.-Sax. Nez, modern French. Exam- ples Bowness ; Furness ; Dungeness in Dover Straits ; The Naze on the Essex coast PEN; a hill. Pen, Brit. Examples The Pen in Duddon Vale; Penyghent ; Pendle Hill, Yorkshire ; Ben Lomond, Ben Nevis. Scotland. The Apennines ; Penne de 1' Heris in the Pyrenees XX GENERAL TERMS. PIKE ; anything peaked or pointed ; hence given to the summit of a hill. Pique, Yr.Picca, Itnl.Pica, Sp. Examples Scawfell Pike, Langdale Pikes. These peaked mountains are styled in Ice- land and German Switzerland, Horn ; in French Switzerland, Dent; in the Pyrenees, Pic; in North Italy, Pizzo; and in South Italy, Corno POT; a word signifying the large circular holes scooped out of the rocks at the bottom or sides of a stream by the action of water. " In the deepest pot of Clyde water They 've laid him deep." The valleys of the Pyrenees usually terminate in a vast semi- circle, excavated in the mass of the mountains, and walled round by enormous cliffs. Such a place is called a Cirque, or Oule, the latter being a corruption of the Latin word olla, a pot. In the neighbourhood of Llanberis, North Wales, there are some deep perforations in a rock, where a stream pours down a cleft. These hollows are called by the country people the Devil's Pots, and the place itself the Devil's Kitchen. RAKE; a term applied to a strip of ground (usually covered with smooth sward, but sometimes strewn with stones) lying on the side of a hill, and sunk below the level of the neighbouring parts, frequently forming a miniature pass amongst rocks. Either from Raecka, Swed. Reccan, Ang.-Sax., to spread out ; or from Hraca, Ang.-Sax., a throat. Rank Isl., means a rupture in a glacier. In Teviotdale the term rack is applied to a shal- low ford, where the water spreads itself out, before narrowing to a full stream ; and, in the language of the northern dalesmen the sheep rake, when they extend themselves into a long file. In the dialect of Western Switzerland the word Raca means rough, stony ground. Examples Lady's Rake, Derwentwater ; Scots Rake, Troutbeck ; Lord's Rake, Scawfell ; Green Rake, Penyghent. RAISE ; a heap of stones thrown up by way of tumulus. Examples Dunmail Raise, Grasmere; Woundale Raise, Trout- beck. REACH ; the division of a lake or vale made by the pnjection of surrounding hills. " This deep vale Winds far in reaches hidden from our sight." GUIDE TO THE LAKES. XXI RIGG ; a ridge ; in the same manner, brigg is from bridge. Hricg, Ang.-Sax. Reg, Dan., a ridge or back. The ridge of 8 house-roof is called the rigging. Examples Loughrigg, Ambleside ; Riggendale, Hawes Water. SCAR, scarth, carr ; a line of rock bare of vegetation : a gash, as it were, in the face of the earth, exhibiting the rock beneath. Shier, Su. Guth., a rock, from skaera, to cut Esgair, Welsh, the ridge of a mountain Carre, Ang.-Sax. The scars of the Lake district are too numerous to render particular men- tion requisite: " I know a cave, wherein the bright day's eye Look'd never, but askance through a small creeke, Or little cranny of the fretted scar." TRAGEDY OP HOFFMAN, 1631. Shakspere also has the word in an obscure passage, which his commentators have not satisfactorily explained. SCKEES ; loose stones lying on the face of steeps at the foot of preci- pices from which they have fallen. The large blocks rolled to the bottom of the slopes are called " Borrans." Creech (the ch being guttural), signifies, in Lanarkshire, a de- clivity encumbered with stones. According to the popular notion, the Fairies delight to live in Creeches. " Sharp crees" is explained in a Dictionary of 1701, imbrices lapidei. Ex- amples The Screes, Wast Water ; Red Screes, Kirkstone ; Yewdale Screes, Coniston ; Cautley Screes, Howgill. SCROGS ; stunted bushes ; and hence land covered with them has acquired that name. Scrobb, Ang.-Sax., a shrub. In the south of England the woid becomes scrubs : e. g. Wormwood Scrubbs, near London. " Or in the scroggis or the buskis rank." DOX'GLAS. SLACK ; such a place on a hill where the tension of the surface is slackened, the consequence being a depression ; a hollow gener- ally. When striking a balance, the country people say " we must set a hill against a slack ;" i. e. in estimating the average, the minus is compensated by the plus. STKE ; a rivulet, Sich, Ang.-Sax. Sy'k, Isl., a water-course. One component of a Highland chiefs retinue, as described in Waverley, is the Gilly cas fluich, "who carries him on his back through si kef and brooks." GENERAL TERMS. TARN , a small sheet of water, usually high up amongst the moun tains. Tiorn, a pool, pi. Tiarnier, Isl., from Taaren, to trickle. " Thou wind, that rav'st without, Bare crag, or mountain tairn, or blasted tree, Mcthinks were fitter instrument for thee !" S. T. COLEKIUOE. THWAITE; a common postfix. " Stubbed ground." Dr. Whitaker. Thwcete, a watery, washy place. Ingram. Examples Applo thwaite, Seathwaite. WATH ; a ford, used in composition only. Wad, Ang.-Sax. Podum, Lat., a ford. WRAY ; the name of many places. Ra, Isl. Rao, Wraa, Su. Goth., a corner, a landmark. WYKE ; a bay. Wijck, Teut., a bending. Wik, Su. Goth., a bay or creek. Wic, Ang.-Sax. Wick, prov. Germ., an inlet. Examples Pull Wyke, Windermere; Sand "Wyke, Ulleswater; Peel Wyke, Bassenthwaite Lake. Hence a habitation on a bay or creek is called Wick Blowick, Ulleswater, &c. NAMES 01' PLACES. ASKHAM, Askrigg. Here is one of the forms of the particle signify, ing water. Ach is one of the oldest words of the northern idiom of Germany; it expresses water, especially flowing water, and all the German provinces have their little streams, called A, Acha, Aha. It is to be noticed that ease is a Gaelic word for water. BLEA TARN, Langdale ; and hi many other places. Bin, Swed. Blaae, Dan., blue. BOWNESS. Boo, lot, Is]., and Su. Goth., a dwelling, a village. See Ness, ante. CALDEB ; a river that empties itself into the Irish sea, between Egre- mont and Eavenglass. Caleddwr, Brit., hard water, or Celldwr, woody water. CAEEOCK FELL. Cruach, Gael., a hill Careg, Welsh, a rock. CAEES, The ; see Scar, ante. CATSTYCAM, often written Catchedecam, Helvellyn. Wild cats' ladder hill. See explanation of the words Cam, and Styhead. There is a Catscar in Clifton parish. Cat's cave U a place of dangerous access in the hill of Kinnoul, Perth. " All was still save by fits when the eagle was yelling, And Catchedecam with his echoes replied." SCOTT. CODALE, in Easdale, Troutbeck, and elsewhere. Codagh, Gael., a hill. CRINKLE CRAG. Kringel crog, Dan., crooked, bending in and out as the outline of these rocks does. Dow CitA3, upon Coniston Old Man; Dow Crags near Brothers Water, and elsewhere. Dow is pronounced doo. Du, Welsh, black, gloomy Dhu, Dubh, Gael. Douglas signifies black water Dubk, Irish. Dublin is interpreted, black pool. " The dowie dens of Yarrow." XXIV XAMK3 OF PLACES. FAIRFIELD, Rydal. Faar, sheep, Feld, Dan., a hill. Far-oe means sheep island. " Fairfield has larpe, smooth, pastoral savannahs, to which the shepp resort when all its rocky or barren neighbours are left desolate." DE QUINCEY. FI.OUTERX, a tarn between Ennerdale and Buttermere. Floi, Isl., locus palustris. GATESCARTH, at the head of Longsleddale, and in other parts. A road conducted over a scar. See Gate, ante. HAMMER SCAR, Grasmere. ffamar, Isl., rapes Hammar, Su. Goth., nemos petrosum. The names of many places in Scandinavia are compounded of this word, and there is a fine range of rock on the Rhine termed Hammerstein. INGS, between Kendal and Ambleside. Broad Ing, Askham. Ing, Ang.-Sax., a meadow. KESKADALE, near Keswick ; a corruption of Gatescarthdale. KIRKSTONE ; a pass between Ulleswater and Windermere, near the summit of which there is a block of stone, " whose church-like frame Gives to the savage pass its name." LADE POT ; a hill standing in a line with High Street, over which the Romans carried one of their roads. From this circumstance, and that Lad signifies hi the Saxon, a way, we are inclined to think that the road continued over Lade Pot, although no trace of it is now to be seen. Mill Lade is a common term in Scot- land for a water course, i. e., a water way for a mill. LONGSLEDDALE ; Wetsleddale near Shap. Slade amongst our old writers signifies a valley. " And satyrs that in sladcs and gloomy dimbles dwell." POLYOLBIOM. And in Scotland the word denotes, to this day, a hollow between rising grounds, " especially one that has a stream running through it." JAMIESON. Slaed, slede Ang.-Sax. Skied, Isl., vaflis Slet. Swed., a plain MELL FELL, LlngmeU, J/e/Jbreaks. Meall, maol, Gael., a hill Moel, a smooth conical hill. This answers the description of Mell Fell between Keswick and Penrith, which " rises alone," says Southey, " like a huge tumulous." GUIDE TO THE I-AKfcS. XXV MICKLEDEN, Langclale; Mickledore, Scawfeil. Afickle, Ang.-Sax., much, large. In a catalogue of books pre sented, in 1046, by Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter, to the li- brary of his cathedral is this entry : " 1. Mycel englisc bok,' i. e., one great English book. " A noble peer of miekle trust and power." Comus. NAN BIELD ; the pass from Kentmere to Mardale. Nant, Welsh, a hollow formed by water, a ravine, a mountain torrent. There are several glens, streams, and waterfalls in tbf Savo3 r termed Nant. The traveller from Geneva to Chamoum will remember a fine cascade near the road called Nant d' Ar- pen as. PATTERDALE is said to take its name from St. Patrick, and the facl of there being a well in the valley called after this saint seems to favour the supposition. RVDAL is thought by Mr. "Wordsworth to be a contraction of Rothay- dale ; but perhaps it is allied to the British word, Rhydle, a passage place. SALE FELL, near Bassenthwaite Water. Top sail, a hill in the same neighbourhood. Black Sail, the pass from Wastdale to Enner dale. Sayle Bottom, a slope beneath a ridge of rock on Asby Fell. Sagal, sahl, Ang.-Sax., a bar. SATCRA CRAG, Martindale. Settera Park, near Lowther. Satury Watercrook, near Kendal. Satterthwaite, in Rusland. Seel, set, Swed., a settlement, connected with Setr. Tsl., a dwell ing. The Norsk chalets, f. e., the summer residences of the herdsmen high up on the hills, are called Saetter. SCANDALE FELL, Ambleside. Skans, Isl., munimentum Skands, Dan., a fort, fence, rampart. This hill is near the old camp at the head of Windermere. SCAWFELL. Scaw, a hill behind Red Pike. Scagill, on Whinlatter FeUs. Skor, Isl., fissura, rima, incisura, SKELWITH, near Ambleside. Lonscale Fell. Skelgill or Scalegill, Wansfell. Scales Tarn. Bowscale Tarn. Scale Force, &c. Skal, Isl., convallicula Skctal, Dan., a bowl. SKIDDAW ; " Named from its fancied likeness to a horse shoe (yscyd)." Dr. Stukeley. XXVI NAMES OF PLACES. SPRINKLING TARN, near Scawfell. Springkilde, Dan., a source or spring. STAKE ; the pass from Langdale to Borrowdale. Standford Stake, at the north end of High Street. Stake Fell, near Hawes. Stager, Ang.-Sax., a stair Steg, Germ., a mountain path Staege, Swiss, stairs. STEEL, FELL, Grasmere. Stejl, Dan., steep Stett, Germ., steep. STICKLE, the tw o Pikes of Langdale are termed Harrison Stickle and Pike o' Stickle. Sticcel, Ang.-Sax. Steekel, Belg. Stachel, Germ., a sharp point, aculeus Stikill, Isl., pars extrema cornu, apex. The Stachel- berg is a hill in Canton Glarus, Switzerland. STY HEAD ; the pass from Borrowdale to Wastdale. Stybarrow Crag, Ulleswater. Kidsty Pike ; f. e., Kid's ladder hill. In the Westmorland dialect, Stee, signifies a ladder. Stie, Dan., a ladder. Steige, Ger., a flight of stairs. Sty, or stee, is an old English word for a path : " With myche myrthe and melodye Forth gon they fare, Both by streetes and by sty, Aftyr that Lady fair." Lay of Etnare, temp. Henry VI. It is remarkable that the passes of the Himalayan Mountains and the flights of stairs on the banks of the Ganges bear the same name, viz., Ghauts, a word derived from one in the Sanscrit (gati,) meaning a way or path. This word forms one link in the connec- tion of the Eastern and European tongues. SWIRRELL, or Swirl Edge Helvellj-n. Swirl Band, near Coniston. A place on the hills where the wind or snow eddies. " The swelland swirl uphevid us to hevin." DOCGLAS. WALLOW CRAG, Hawes Water. Wallow Crag, Derwentwater. Wallowbarrow Crag, on the Duddon. Watta, Su. Goth, grassy ground or from HaHr, Isl., procli vitas, also lapis. YOKE, a hill in a chain. The Yoke, Troutbeck. Joch, Germ., a chain or ridge of Hills. Joch, a pass between the cantons of Bern and Unterwalden. Juchliberg, on the Grimsel. Juchli, a pass between Engelberg and the Melchthal. Snaefell Yokull, in Iceland. XXV11 NOTES ON PASSES. -. ANOER IN CROSSING THESE WITHOUT A GUIDE The following communications worthy of the tourist's notice have been forwarded to the publishers by correspondents : " Pedestrians intending to travel these passes without a guide, would do well to study their route previously from Mr. Flintoft's model, at Keswick. I found it very serviceable ; and its owner is most conversant with the localities, and will give many valu- able hints." C. M. "I request the favour of your suggesting, that the passes at Scarf Gap and Black Sail should not be attempted late in the season without a guide, for the following reasons : " A friend and myself left the inn at Buttermere on our way to Wastdale, in a heavy rain, being pressed for time. We reached the summit of Scarf Gap, and descended into the Enner- dale valley, with tolerable success, in spite of a cold north-east wind and driving rain ; we also ascended Black Sail about half way, when my friend's pony, a hardy and powerful animal, came to a stand still. I then pushed on alone, on foot, to find a better track for the pony, and had attained so close to the summit as to see the platform, as it were, within my reach, when prolonged wet and cold produced such severe numbness of faintness, that I had barely strength to return to my companion, whom I found very little better off than myself. But for a flask of brandy in his bag, I do not think we could ever have left the valley alive ; as it was, we had barely power to make our way through the swamps, rocks, and swollen torrents of the Liza. Never but once before did I feel so near the gates of death, and I feel it a duty to save, so far as in me lies, my fellow-creatures from so imminent a danger; and I know no way so effectual as the bringing the facts to your knowledge. S. P. H. W. XXV111 NOTES ON PASSES, TO THE EDITOR OF THE "TIMES." Sir I have observed in your paper for the last few days & great deal of controversy about guides, and mountain travelling in the lake district. I have several times visited that district, and on two occa- sions have crossed the mountains alone. The first instance was from Grasmere to Patterdale by the Grisedale Pass, and the other by Sty Head from Wastdale to Borrowdale. Your corres- pondent to-day, " H. W. B.," states that the latter ought not to have been undertaken without a guide. To this I may reply, that the road is plain enough, and could hardly be mistaken from one vale to the other, and to those wlio are neither timid nor foolhardy, I apprehend there is but little chance of danger. To ascend Skiddaw, I have been told by friends at Keswick, a guide is not necessary and my own impression is the same. At any rate, I mean to make the ascent next month without one, if the weather be at all propitious; and I have no doubt that Helvellyn might also be ascended with safety. The path by Scarf Gap and Black Sail to Wastdale is more dangerous ; but I would not hesitate to try it on a fine day. I quite agree with " H. W. B." that there are places where guides are necessary, and where compasses and guide books would be of little use. I may here say that I have personally proved the utility of Slack's Guide Book and Map, both of which, so far as my experience goes, are extremely correct. To talk of putting up guide-posts is absurd. The winter winds would soon dispose of them and who is to bear the expense ? They would have to be restored once a year at the least. Those who can't get about without them, or pay for guides without grumbling, had better remain at home. Your obedient servant, J. B. A. XXIX DANGER OF ASCENDING THE MOUNTAINS IN WINTER. Loss OF MR. BUTLER AT THE GREAT GABLE (February 1865). This parallel case to that of Gough (whose melan- choly death on Helvellyn forms the subject of one of Sir Walter Scott's most affecting ballads), occurred in the neighbourhood of Wastwater. Mr. Lennox Butler was the son of the Hon. Mr. Butler of Cottonhouse, Rugby, and about 25 years of age. He was a frequent visitor to the lake district in summer, and came at the close of January 1865 to Keswick. He made the Derwentwater Hotel, Portin- scale, his headquarters, which he left on the 2d February to explore for a few days Borrowdale and Wastdale Head. In the last-named place he remained at the house_ of Mr. Ritson, thence making frequent excursions. Among others, he ascended Scawfell, on which occasion he lost himself on his return, and had to remain with some shep- herds all night. On Wednesday the 7th of February he went out at eleven o'clock in the morning for the purpose of ascending the Great Gable, saying that he would be back in about three hours. Seeing nothing of him afterwards, Mr. Ritson concluded that he had gone back to Keswick. Several days passed away, when Mr. Bell, the landlord of the Der- wentwater Hotel, becoming apprehensive that some accident had happened to Mr. Butler, wrote to Mr. Ritson on the XXX subject of his non-appearance. Upon this, the latter started, with some other mountaineers, in search of their missing guest. They traced the marks of his snow-shoes to that part of the Great Gable Fell facing Wastwater and Enner- dale. On coming to a precipitous part they lost these tracks ; but from the appearance of the snow, it seemed as if something had rolled down the mountain side. As it was not safe to descend in this place, a retriever dog was sent down the steep, and when he had gone some 200 yards below, he halted and barked. By a circuitous route the men gained the spot, and there found the corpse of the hapless traveller covered with snow, only a portion of his plaid protruding. They carried him back to the house which he had left only a week before in robust health and excellent spirits. Upon examination, his skull was found to be dreadfully fractured, and a part of his upper lip gone. He had apparently lost his footing on the slip- pery platform of the mountain, and rolled down with terrific impetus, falling on his face. His hat and stick were found at some distance. The deceased gentleman was an enthusiastic admirer of English mountain scenery, and his face, as a visitor, was familiar in the neighbourhood of Keswick and the outlying districts, over which his awful death cast at the time a general gloom. ABSTRACT OF TOURS. XXXI TO THE EDITOR OF " BLACK'S GUIDE BOOK." " Having just made the tour of the English Lakes by the aid of your guide book, which I found of great value, and knowing that you would be glad to receive any information tending to correct any inaccuracies, I may state in reference to the farmhouse, at Wast Water (Jno. Kitson's), 'which you justly describe as being a house where "refreshment and lodgings can be obtained," and " which, although not licensed, is comfortable and clean," that the house above referred to is now licensed for the sale of both beer and spirits. I made the excursion from Portinscale to Wast Water (having a lady with me), by way of Seathwaite, ponies and a guide having been sent on there in readiness ; 1 may observe in passing, that travellers requiring a guide for such an excursion (and it is really dangerous to go without one, unless a night spent out of doors is of little or no consideration), will find a very excellent and intelligent one in a person of the name of Greaves of Keswick, particularly so to those who are fond of botanizing. In crossing the Sty Head a thunderstorm overtook us, which rendered our position anything but enviable. We were well pre- pared for such contingencies, but nevertheless had great cause for congratulating Mrs. Eitson, and perhaps ourselves more so, that our good hostess had been successful in procuring that great desideratum which rendered her capable of placing within reach of her visitors those luxuries which, under the circumstances detailed above, almost become necessaries. I remain, etc. "S. H." HOTELS. SOME OF THE BEST HOTELS AND STATIONS FOR TOURS. For "Windermere. Rigg's Windermere Hotel, at the Station, Royal, CrowDj and Victoria Hotels, at Bowness. Lowood Hotel, near Ambleside, an excellent hotel, beautifully situated. Salutation Hotel, in Ambleside, an excellent hotel, conveniently situated. Waterhead Hotel, at landing-place near Ambleside. For Grasmsre and Kydal. Prince of "Wales Lake Hotel (Brown's), excellent hotel, beauti- fully situated on the margin of the lake. For Derwentwater and Borrowdale. New Railway Hotel, Queen's (tiew built in 1865 on site of old Queen's Head), Royal Oak, in Keswick. Derwentwater Hotel, at Portinscale, one mile from Keswick. Lodore Hotel (at the celebrated fall). Borrowdale Hotel (new], at entrance to Borrowdale. For Bassenthwaite. The Swan (S. Bowman), at Thornthwaite, 1 m. from Braith- waite Station recommended to anglers. For mis-water. Bownass's Ullswater Hotel, Patterdale, near the steam-boat pier excellent hotel, beautifully situated on the margin of the lake. The Queen's Hotel (Brownrigg's), an excellent old established hotel, about 300 yards from the lake. The Sun, at Pooley Bridge. xxxi a For Lake Coniston. Waterhead Hotel, excellent, and beautifully situated. For Wastwater. William Ritson's, at Wastdalehead, comfortable and clean, and accommodating ten or twelve tourists over night. Stanley Arms, at Calder Bridge and Abbey, 5 miles from Egremonl Station. For Helvellyn. The Nag's Head Inn, "Wythburn ; King's Head Inn, Legberth- waite (Vale of St. John) both on the road between Keswick and Ambleside ; these two are the nearest points, but the ascent is agreeably made from Patterdale, where ponies can be got to ascend to the top. For Furness Abbey. Funiess Abbey Hotel, at the Furness Station, and contiguous to the ruins ; large and excellent. At Lancaster. The King's Arms and Royal Hotel. At Carlisle. The Station Hotel. GENERAL HOTEL CHARGES. S. D. Breakfast plain . 16 Luncheon or Suppers Cold Meat .... 1 Teas plain .... 1 with meat . Dinners Soup or Fish with Joints or Cutlets 2s. 6d. to 4 | with meat . . 2s. or 2 t Port and Sherry Wines First Quality 5s. 6d., 6s. Private Sitting Rooms 2s. 6d., 3s. 6d., 5s. Bedrooms Is. 6d., 2s., 2s. 6d. Extras charged in addition. Attendance charged in the bill, is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per night. XXXIV CHARGES FOB CONVEYANCES, PONIES, AND GUIDES. For a one-horse conveyance Is. per mile. For a two-horse conveyance Is. 6d. per mile. Or if the stage extends to 10 or 12 miles, Is. 4d. per mile. The return journey generally charged one-third more. Ponies 5s. or 7s. 6d. each, according to distance, and the guide the same. To Scawfell 7s. 6d., and 7s. 6d. to guide (in all 15s.) To Helvellyn from Patterdale 5s., and 5s. to guide (10s.) To Skiddaw from Keswick 5s., and 5s. to guide (10s.) PAYMENT TO DRIVERS. For an excursion occupying one or more days, 5s. per day. When paid by the distance, 3d. per mile. When paid by the time, 6d. per hour. No charge for the return journey. In such an excursion as that from Keswick to Buttermere, where the driver and horses have to wait in order to return, the driver's dinner and horses' feed will amount to 3s. 6d., or thereabouts. The hire of a one-horse vehicle for a whole day is 15s. The tolls are paid by the hirer. STAGE COACHES. Fares, 3d. per mile outside, and 44d. per mile inside. Coachmart 's fee, Is. each. STEAMERS AND BOATS. Steam yachts, on Windermere and Ulleswater, sail several times daily. A steam gondola on Lake Coniston makes the tour of the lake daily. The charge for rowing boats is Is. per hour. As the lakes are subject to sudden squalls, the light skiffs are very dan- gerous and should n^f be used except in calm weather. The use of sails in the larger boats is also dangerous. INTRODUCTION. THAT section of England, to the scenery of which this small volume professes to be a Guide, occupies a portion of the three counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancaster, and extends over an area, the greatest length or breadth of which is nowhere more than fifty miles. The picturesque attractions of the district are beyond question unequalled by any other part of England ; 2 INTRODUCTION. and although some of the Scottish lochs and mountains must he admitted to present prospects of more impos- ing grandeur, it may safely be said, that no tract of country in Britain displays a finer comhination of sublimity and beauty. For the lover of nature, no Tour can be named of a more pleasing character than that which these Lakes afford ; yet we see crowds of people hurrying to the Continent on the return of each summer, without deigning to glance at the lovely scenery of their own land. "We penetrate the Glaciers, and traverse the Rhone and the Rhine, whilst our domestic lakes of Ullswater, Keswick, and "Windermere, exhibit scenes in so sublime a style, with such beautiful colourings of rock, wood, and water, backed with so stupendous a disposition of mountains, that if they do not fairly take the lead of all the views of Europe, yet they are indisputably such as no English traveller should leave behind him.* Nor is it only to the admirer of external nature that this spot presents attractions. It is scarcely less interesting to the antiquarian, the geologist, and the botanist. The remains of three Abbeys Furness, Calder, and Shap of numerous Castles of one or two Roman Stations and of many Druidical erections afford, ample scope for the research of the antiquarian ; * CUMBERLAND. INTRODUCTION. 3 whilst the rich variety of stratified and unstratified rocks, forming a series from granite to the carboniferous beds and many rare plants, with ample facilities for observing the effect produced upon vegetation by the varying temperature of the air at different altitudes, yield to the students of geology and of botany abundant matter for employment in their respective pursuits. The absence in the Lake country of those tradi- tions, with which other places similarly characterized by nature abound, has often been remarked with surprise ; and, notwithstanding what has been urged by Southey, we are still at liberty to express our wonder that there is not a greater number of legends, superstitions, and tales of stirring incident, connected with a district so richly supplied with all the attributes to which the popular fancy is prone to link romantic associations of this kind. Having made this remark, it is but proper to subjoin the passage from Southey, to which we have alluded : " There is little or nothing of historical or romantic interest belonging to this region. In this respect, unlike the Scotch border, where Sir Walter could entertain his guests during a morning's ride with tales of murders, executions, house- besieging, and house-burning, as parts of family history belonging to every homestead of which he came in sight. The border history is of no better character on the English side ; but this part of the country was 4 INTRODUCTION. protected by the Solway, and by its natural strength, nor does it appear at any time after it became English to have been troubled with feuds. The English barons, indeed, were by no means so often engaged in private wars as their Scottish neighbours, or the nobles on the continent ; their contests were with the Crown, seldom with each other, and never with their vassals. Those contests were carried on at a distance from our Lake- land, where the inhabitants, being left in peace, seem to have enjoyed it, and never to have forfeited its blessings by engaging in the ways and contracting the disposition of marauders. They had, therefore, neither ballad heroes, nor ballad poets, happy in having afforded no field for the one, and no materials of this kind for the other." An interest, however, of no ordinary kind is im- parted to the locality from its being the spot with which many eminent literary men have been more or less connected, and from which several of their finest works have emanated. William Wordsworth, S. T. Coleridge, his son Hartley Coleridge, Eobert Southey, Bishop Watson, Professor Wilson, Thomas de Quincey, Thomas Hamilton (author of Cyril Thornton), Elizabeth Smith, Charles Lloyd, Dr. Arnold, Harriet Martineau all of these, an honoured list of names, are or were resi- dent among the Lakes. Archbisnop Sandys, Hogarth, and Eomney the painter, also sprung from this country. INTRODUCTION. 5 In directing the steps of the Tourist, we have availed ourselves to a considerable extent of the literature of the district, quoting those passages which in any way illustrate the scenery through which he will pass. These quotations, especially those from the Poets, will, we feel assured, not only contribute to elevate the feel- ings and improve the heart, while the reader is con- templating the scenes which are there portrayed, but will also form a spell by which, in coming years, he may recall the pleasures of the past, and revisit in imagination the scenery over which we are now about to conduct him. The mountains best known and most usually ascended by tourists are SMddaw, Helvellyn, Lang- dale Pikes, Coniston Old Man, and ScawfelL In addition to these, we have described with some minute- ness, as well worthy of being ascended, Saddleback, High Street, and Wansfell. Guides can be procured at any of the neighbouring inns, who, for a moderate compensation, will conduct strangers to the summit by the least circuitous path ; and, being generally intelli- gent persons, will point out and name those objects most worthy of notice, which are visible on the ascent or from the highest point. Fine clear days should be selected for an expedition of this kind, as well for the advantage of having an extensive prospect, as for safety. Mists and wreaths of vapour, capping the summits of INTRODUCTION. mountains, or creeping along their sides, are beautiful objects when viewed from the lowly valley ; but when the wanderer becomes surrounded with them on the hills they occasion anything but agreeable sensations, and have not unfrequently led to serious accidents. The best weather in the Lake district is generally to be got from the middle of May to the end of June, and (passing over July, when there are frequent summer rains) in the autumnal months of August, September, and October. THE LAKE DISTKICT. KENDAL. [Hotels: King's Arms; Commercial; Crown., " A straggling burgh, of ancient charter proud, And dignified by battlements and towers Of a stern castle, mouldering on the brow Of a green hilL" WORDSWORTH. KENDAL, otherwise Kirkby Kendal, the largest town in "Westmorland, is situate in a pleasant valley on the banks of the river Kent, from which circumstance it derives its name. It contains about 13,000 inhabi- tants, and is a place of considerable manufacturing in- dustry, having a large trade in woollen goods. The woollen manufacture was founded as early as the four- teenth century by some Flemish weavers, who settled here at the invitation of Edward III. ; and it has been the subject of several special legislative enactments, the first of which was in the 1 3th year of Richard II., A.D. 1389. Not only did Camden, the historian, charac- terize the town as " lanificii gloria et industria excel- lens ; " but more than one of our early bards have indirectly testified to the celebrity of Kendal woollens. Not to quote again the trite lie of Falstaff respecting 8 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. the " three misbegotten knaves in Kendal Green/' Munday, in his " Downfall of the Earle of Huntingdon" (1601), makes Scarlett, whilst enumerating the persons who furnished the outlaws with necessaries, say, " Bateman of Kendal gave us Kendal Green:" and the Muse, in the thirtieth Song of Drayton's Polyolbion, informs the reader, that the river " CAN gives that dale her name where Kendal Town doth stand, For making of our cloth scarce matched in all the land!" The cloth called Kendal Green (now no longer made) seems, from several passages in our old writers, to have been of a coarser kind than that termed Lin- cola Green, and it was probably of a different hue. The town is intersected by four leading streets, two of which, lying north and south, form a spacious thoroughfare of a mile in length; but the houses are built with great irregularity of position, and are still open to the complaint which Gray, the poet, made in describing a visit he paid to the Lakes in 1769 : " Excepting these (the line of the principal streets), all the houses seem as if they had been dancing a country dance, and were out. There they stand, back to back, corner to corner, some up hill, some down hill, without intent or meaning." The river is spanned by three neat stone bridges; it is of no great width, though subjected to sudden floods by its proximity to the mountains. The houses, built of the limestone which abounds in the neighbourhood, possess an air of cleanliness and comfort, their white walls contrasting pleasingly with numerous trees, which impart a cheer- ful rural aspect to the town. The Barony of Kendal was granted by William the Conqueror to Ivo de Taillebois, one of his followers, in KENDAL. 9 which grant, the inhabitants of the town, as villein (i.e., bond or serf) tenants, were also included; but they were afterwards emancipated, and their freedom con- firmed by a charter from one of his descendants. The barony now belongs, in unequal portions, to the Earl of Lonsdale and the Hon. Mrs. Howard, both of whom have extensive possessions in "Westmorland. An in- corporation of aldermen and burgesses was established by Queen Elizabeth ;* James L intrusted the town to a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twenty burgesses ; and by the Municipal Corporations Eeform Act, the govern- ment of the borough is now vested in a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen common councillors, six of whom are elected annually by the three wards into which it is divided. By the Eeform Act, which dis- franchised Appleby, the county town, Kendal, has the privilege of returning one member to Parliament. The Parish Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands in that part of the borough called Kirkland. It is a spacious Gothic edifice, remarkable for having five aisles, like the famous St. John in Laterano at Some, " ecclesiarum urbis et orbis mater et caput." It contains three chapels at the east end, belonging to the ancient families of the Parrs, Bellinghams, and Stricklands. The oldest part appears to have been erected about the year 1200. The tower is square, and 72 feet in height. Like most other ecclesiastical structures of ancient date, it contains a number of * It is singular that under Queen Elizabeth's charter, the borough had no Mayor. To this lack of a Chief Magistrate, Richard Braithwaite, in his "Drunken Bamaby's Journal," a work well known to book-fanciers, alludes in these lines : " Thence to Kendal, pure her state is, Prudent, too, her magistrate is, In whose charter to them granted Nothing but a Mayor is wanted." 10 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. curious monuments and epitaphs.* There are three other churches in the town, both erected about twenty- five years ago, and forming handsome edifices : that which stands at the foot of Stricklandgate is de- dicated to St. Thomas ; the other, near Stramon- gate Bridge, to St. George ; the third, named All Hal- lows' Chapel, has just been erected on the Fell side. In addition to the churches of the Establishment, the Dissenters have upwards of a dozen places of worship. The Eoman Catholics have a neat chapel on the New Eoad. The Natural History Society's Museum in Stricklandgate contains a collection of specimens, illus- trating local and general natural history and antiqui- ties, which does great credit to the town. A member's order, which can easily be procured, will give the opportunity of inspecting a good collection of fossils from the limestone of the neighbourhood. The Town Hall, at the head of Lowther Street, forms a hand- some pile. It contains a news-room, ball-room, etc. The other edifices worthy of notice are the Bank of Westmorland (an establishment on the joint-stock principle), the Mechanics' Institute, the Old Maids' Hospital all of which are in Highgate and the Public Baths and Washhouses, in All Hallows Lane. The Free Grammar School is an unpretending building, near the Parish Church, at which many individuals, * In the chancel, the following singular epitaph, written for himself, by the Rev. Ralph Tirer, is engraven on a brass plate : " Here vnder lyeth ye body of Mr. Ralph Tirer, late vicar of Kendal, Batchler of Divinity, who died the 4th day of Jvne, Ano. Dili. 1627. " London bredd mee Westminster fedd mee Cambridge spedd mee My sister wedd mee Study taught mee Kendal caught mee Labour pressed mee Sickness distressed mee Death oppressed mee The Grave possessed mee God first gave mee Christ did save mee Earth did crave mee And heaven would have mee." WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM KENDAL. 11 eminent in science and learning, have been educated.* The House of Correction, at the northern extremity of the town, is used as a county as well as a borough gaol. On the east of the town is the termination of the Lancaster and Preston Canal, which affords great facilities for the conveyance of coal to Kendal. The Railway from Lancaster to Carlisle passes within a short distance of the town on the east, with which the Kendal and Windermere Eailway forms a junction at Oxenholme, two miles from Kendal. The seats in the neighbourhood are Abbot Hall, Kendal (Ed- mund Harrison, Esq.), upon the site of which, before the dissolution of religious houses, stood the occasional residence of the Abbot of St. Mary's, York. The Vicarage, Kirkland (Archdeacon Cooper) ; Helme Lodge, two miles south (W. I). Crewdson, Esq.) ; Sizergh Castle (Walter C. Strickland, Esq.), three miles and a half south ; Heaves, four miles south (Colonel Gandy) ; Sedgwick House, four miles south (John Wakefield, Esq.) ; Levens Hall (Hon. Mrs. Howard), five miles south ; Dallam Tower, seven miles south (George E. Wilson Esq. ) ; Mosergh House, four miles north (Mr. Machell) ; Shaw End, five miles north (Arthur Shepherd, Esq.) ; Low Bridge House, six miles north (Mrs. Fothergill) ; High Park, two miles east (William Wilson, Esq.) ; Singleton Park, three miles east (Thos. Harrison, Esq.) ; Ellergreen, two miles north-west (James Cropper, Esq.) ; Prizet, two and a half miles south (W. H. Wake- field, Esq.) WALKS AND EXCUESIONS FKOM KENDAL. The ruins of KENDAL CASTLE, of which only four broken towers, and the outer wall, surrounded by a deep fosse, remain, crown the summit of a steep eleva- * Amongst them may be enumerated Dr. Law, Bishop of Carlisle, the father of two bishops and a chief-justice ; Barnaby Potter, another Bishop of Carlisle, named, from his asceticism, "the Puritanical Bishop," and of whom it was said, " that the organs would blow him out of church;" Dr. Shaw, the Oriental traveller ; and Ephraim Chambers, the author of the first Encyclopedia in the English language. 12 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. tion on the east of the town. The remains of this fortress are well worthy of a visit, on account of the views of the town and valley which the hill commands. This, the seat of the ancient Barons of Kendal, became successively the residence of the families of Le Brus, Ross, and Parr. It was the birthplace of Catherine Parr, the last queen of Henry VIII., a lady, who (as Pennant quaintly remarks) "had the good fortune to descend to the grave with her head, in all probability merely by outliving her tyrant." And yet she only escaped his clutches to fall into worse hands. Her fourth husband was the Lord High- Admiral Seymour, whose ill usage soon carried her to her grave, not with- out suspicion of poison. Her brother, the first and last Marquis of Northampton of that family, was also born here. He was condemned as a traitor for sup- porting Lady Jane Grey's claim to the Crown, but his honours and estates were ultimately restored to him. The castle appears to have been so neglected, that it was ruinous before the Marquis's death, in 1671. It is now the property of Lord Kenlis, grandson of the late Alderman Thompson, M.P., who purchased the pro- perty some 25 years ago. The Earl of Lonsdale is lord of the manor. Opposite to the Castle, on the west side of the town, is Castle -how-hill, or Castle-low- hill, a large circular mount of gravel and earth, round the base of which there is a deep fosse, strengthened with two bastions on the east. It is of great antiquity, and is supposed by some to owe its origin to the Saxons, and to have been one of those hills called Laws, where in ancient times justice was administered. In 1788 a handsome obelisk was erected on its summit in com- memoration of the Revolution of 1688. About a mile to the south of the town, at a spot where the river almost bends upon itself, and hence WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM KENDAL. 13 called "Water Crook, are the still perceptible remains of the Eoman Station, Concangium, formerly a place of some importance, judging from the number of urns, tiles, and other relics of antiquity discovered there. It is believed that a watch was stationed at this point for the security of the Eoman posts at Ambleside and Over- borough. In the walla of some farm buildings in the vicinity are two altars, a large stone with a sepulchral inscription and a mutilated statue. One mile and a half to the west, at the termination of a long ascent over an open moor, is the bold escarpment of limestone rock, called UNBERBARROW (or Scout) SCAR, which the stranger is strongly advised to visit. It is a remarkable object, and will repay the trouble of reaching it, by the splendid view of the distant lake mountains, and the interjacent country, which its terrace commands. On the east of the town, a hill termed Benson Knott, rises abruptly to the altitude of 1098 feet above the level of the sea. From the summit of this hill, an extensive pros- pect is obtained. LEVENS HALL, the seat of the Hon. Mrs. Howard, five miles south of Kendal, is a venerable mansion in the old English style, buried among lofty trees. The park, through which the river Kent winds betwixt bold and beautifully wooded banks, is separated by the turnpike road from the house. It is of considerable size, well stocked with deer, and contains a noble avenue of ancient oaks. The gardens, however, form the greatest attraction, being planned after the old French style by Mr. Beaumont, gardener to King James II., by whom it is said the gardens at Hampton Court were laid out. His portrait with great propriety is preserved in the Hall. Trim alleys, bowling-green, and wildernesses fenced round by sight-proof thickets of beech, remind the beholder, by their antique appear- 14 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ance, of times " long, long ago." In one part, a great number of yews, hollies, laurels, and other evergreens, cut into an infinite variety of grotesque shapes, exhibit an interesting specimen of the Topiarian art, which, at one period, though no more than a mechanic craft, realized in some measure the effects of a tine art by the perfect skill of its execution.* This " curious-knotted garden," as may be imagined, harmonizes well with the old Hall, the interior of which also deserves more than a passing glance. It contains some exquisite specimens of elaborately carved oak " The chambers carved so curiously, Carved with figures strange and sweet, All made out of the carver's brain." Christdbel. The work in the library and drawing room is exceedingly rich, as may be conceived from its having been esti- mated that, at the present rate of wages, its execution would cost 3000. The carved chimney-piece in the library is an intricate piece of workmanship. The two jambs represent Hercules and Samson the one armed with the ass's jaw-bone, the other, having a lion's skin for a covering, with a club. Above are emblematic representations in bold relief of the Seasons, the Ele- ments, and the Five Senses ; all which are explained in these lines, cut in dark oak : Thus the five sences stand portrated here, The elements four and seasons of the year ; Sampson supports the one side, as in rage, The other Hercules in like equipage. * The quaint method of ornamenting gardens, so fashionable in the seventeenth century, though derived immediately from France, might be defended by the authority of the classical ages of antiquity. Making all allowances for their artificial formality, we cannot but regret their indis- criminate eradication, few of any extent being now left in the island. There was a garden near Paris so elaborately embellished with Topiary work, that it' contained a representation of Troy besieged, the two hosts, their several leaders, and all other objects in full proportion . WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM KENDAL. 15 The large drawing-room contains a very pleasing portrait of the unfortunate Anna Boleyn, and there is one of Henry VII., by John de Maubeuse. The study has a fine old Italian picture of the Holy Family. In the library is a full-length painting, by Lely, of Colonel James Grahame, a former owner of Levens, who was keeper of the Privy Purse to King James II., and brother of Grahame of Netherby, first Viscount Preston. A fine picture of his wife, a Howard, hangs by his side, reminding us of Pope's couplet "Lely on animated canvas stole, The sleepy eye that spoke the melting soul." The daughter of this pair, a portrait of whom adorns the staircase, married her cousin the Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire, thus bringing Levens into the Howard family. The bugle-horns, intermixed so profusely with the carved work, were the device of the Bellinghams, an ancient "Westmorland family, from whom Colonel Grahame purchased Levens. The entrance-hall is deco- rated with pieces of ancient armour of various dates, and in the panelling are several bas-reliefs in wood from holy writ. One of the rooms is adorned with some pieces of tapestry, illustrative of a tale from an Italian poet. On the 12th of May annually, after the fair at Milnthorpe, a large party of gentlemen are in- vited to the gardens at Levens to witness various athletic sports, bowling, leaping, etc., whilst several tables are placed in the open air, on which is spread a favourite repast consisting of morocco (a very strong old ale peculiar to the place), radishes, and bread and butter, for the benefit of the visitors. SIZERGH HALL, the seat of the ancient family of Strickland, situate three and a half miles south of Kendal at the foot of a hill facing the east, is also 16 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. deserving of a visit. It is an antique fortified building, standing in an undulating park, delightfully sprinkled with wood. Only a small portion of the old towers remain frequent additions and repairs have given an irregular but picturesque aspect to the whole pile. It contains a considerable collection of carved oak, tapestry, portraits, and armour. There is a portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Antonio More, excellently painted, and some portraits by Lely and Eomney. One apart- ment is called the Queen's chamber, from a tradition that Catherine Parr once lodged there. A portrait of Charles II., by Yandyke, was presented to the family by King James II. In former times the honourable family of Strickland furnished seventeen knights of the shire for Westmorland. At the battle of Edgehill, Sir Thomas Strickland distinguished himself so much that Charles created him a knight banneret, and the same Sir Thomas was afterwards privy purse to Charles II. The Lord of Sizergh could bring into the field, during the Border wars, a force of two hundred and ninety bowmen and billmen, the greater portion of which was " horsyd and harnassyd ;" but " Ages have pass'd siiice the vassal horde Hose at the call of their feudal lord. Serf and chief, the fetter'd and free, Are resting beneath the greenwood tree, And the blazon'd shield and the badge of shame, Each is alike an empty name." LONGSLEDDALE AND HAWES WATER THE horseman or pedestrian will be pleased by an excursion from Kendal to Hawes Water through Long- sleddale ; indeed, if the scenery of Windermere be already familiar to him, this route will form a very agreeable mode of approaching Ullswater. LONGSLEDDALE AND HAWES WATER. 17 The Tourist must take the Penrith road for four miles and a half, and then follow a road on the left, leading steeply down the brae side to the river Sprint. At this point a bridge crosses the stream, and the cur- rent is employed to turn some mills. Care should be taken to keep on the left bank of the stream. Here commences the valley or glen of Longsleddale, " a little scene of exquisite beauty," as Mrs. Radcliffe terms it, "surrounded with images of greatness." This little vale shows a level of the brightest verdure, with a few rustic cottages, scattered among groves enclosed by dark fells, that rise steeply, yet gracefully, and their summits bend forward in masses of shattered rock. The traveller will not fail to appreciate the charm that arises from what Gray happily styles " rusticity in its sweetest, most becoming attire." Whilst the eye marks the deep green of level meadows and hanging enclosures, contrasting these with the line of craggy heights above, he will forgive and forget the absence of " cottages with double coach-houses," and the other intrusions of gentility. The chapel stands on a knoll by the road side, eight miles from Kendal ; here Brunt Knott is on the left, Bannisdale Fell on the right. Not far distant a thin bed of Silurian limestone, abound- ing with fossils, is exposed by a quarry. This stratum can be traced across the country all the way from the river Duddon, in Lancashire. Two miles beyond the chapel, a little below Sadgill Bridge, the stream makes a pretty cascade. Soon afterwards, the enclosed land is left for the common, and Goat-Crag stands boldly out on the left. Galeforth Spout, a waterfall, not seen from the road, is on a stream rushing from the hills on the right. The road soon commences the ascent of Gate- scarth, and enters a slack, where a little care should be observed, in order to hit the path, which strikes north- c 18 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ward from a sheep-cote ; that to the left conducting by some slate quarries into Kentmere. Some hard climbing is still required to reach the summit of the pass. Looking back, the contracted vale, through which we have passed, lies below, and the spot is high enough to command a view of Lancaster Sands. The descent is as precipitous as the ascent ; Barter Fell presenting, on the left, a noble front to the valley of Mardale below, whilst Branstree stands on the right. From a point about two-thirds of the way down, a con- siderable portion of Hawes Water comes into sight ; and in descending, fine views of the ridges running up from the valley are obtained. A hollow to the west encloses Blea Water, and above is the loftiest part of High Street; a ridge called Long Stile runs up from the valley to a narrow portion of High Street, termed the Straits of Riggendale. Over Long Stile the rough and conical face of Kidsty Pike shows itself. A stream issues from Blea Water ; and, after rushing down the hill side, is seen to join the one from Small Water, which latter distinguishes the glen traversed by the road into Kentmere. The Dun Bull, a homely public- house on Mardale Green, offers welcome refreshment to the weary traveller, who finds himself a mile from the Head of Hawes Water, and fifteen from Kendal. (For description of Hawes Water, see page 195.) WINDERMERE. (Hotel: Rigg's Windennere Hotel at Station (excellent), 1J miles from Bowness. Coaches from the hotel to Ambleside, Keswick, etc.] WINDERMERE, or more properly Winandermere, the English Zurich, is about eleven miles in length, and one mile in breadth. It forms part of the county of Westmorland, although the greatest extent of its 20 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. margin belongs to Lancashire ; and what seems some- what singular, it is for county purposes considered to be altogether in the little township of Applethwaite. It has many feeders, the principal of which is formed by the confluence of the Brathay and Eothay shortly before entering the Lake. The streams from Trout- beck, Blelham Tarn, and Esthwaite "Water, also pour in their waters at different points. Numerous islands, varying considerably in size, diversify its surface at no great distance from one another none of them being more than four and a half miles from the central part of the lake. Their names, commencing with the most northerly, are Eough Holm (opposite Rayrigg), Lady Holm (so called from a chapel dedicated to our Lady, which once stood upon it) f * Hen Holm, House Holm, Thompson's Holm, Curwen's or Belle Isle (round which are several nameless islets), Berkshire island (a little below the Ferry points), Ling Holm, Grass Holm, and Silver Holm. Two small islands, named from the lily of the valley, which grows in profusion upon them, are between Belle Isle and the west margin. Windermere is deeper than any of the other lakes, with the exception of Wast Water, its depth in some parts being upwards of 240 feet It is plentifully stocked with perch, pike, trout, and char, which last, at the proper season, is potted in large quantities and forwarded to the south. It is a remarkable fact, that, at the spawning season, when the trout and char leave the lake, the former fish invariably takes the Rothay, and the latter the Brathay. t * " To visit Lady Holm of yore, Where stood the blessed virgin's cell, Full many a pilgrim dipp'd an oar." FAKISH. t " The char are very seldom known to wander into any of the streams by which the lakes where they are found are either supplied or drained, >VJ^iAML)Ji J VJf:ji J SaftJS-J-flfl a ^frj;i. , , ... - f -"'^'.'.i'.' iMn,, \Wtntir. i<:-Ss x/aff Ttmi ft f~~ui ^ ~^ sV ) ' - - ' V *///<><( , -^ ,. *-, ^ ;/,,,;, A-,-/- ,-^Jb /y^r T JKsES&lar i < -M ,' ; : C^S44te .. Sni.iirriLwiili' ( /.V, \. / Statute Mile BOWNESS. 21 The prevailing character of the scenery around Windermere is soft and graceful beauty. It shrinks from approaching that wildness and sublimity which characterise some of the other lakes, and challenges admiration on the score of grandeur only at its head, where the mountains, after retiring for a short distance, rise to a considerable height, and present admirable outlines to the eye. The rest of the margin is occupied by eminences, which, being exuberantly wooded, add a richness and a breadth to the scenery which bare hills cannot of themselves bestow. Numerous villas and cottages, gleaming amid the woods, impart an aspect of domestic beauty, which farther contributes to enhance the character of the landscape. BOWNESS. [Hotels: Royal; Crown; Victoria.] This village is placed on the edge of a large bay of Windermere, eight miles from Kendal, six from Ambleside, and two from the Terminus of the Kendal and Windermere Railway. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is an ancient structure, with a square except at the season of spawning, and their decided partiality for clear water and a hard bottom is then very conspicuous. Winandermere has two prin- cipal feeders, the rivers Bothay and Brathay ; the Rothay has a sandy bot- tom, but the channel of the Brathay is rocky. These streams unite at the western corner of the head of the lake, below Clappersgate, at a place called Three-foot brander, and, after a short course, boldly enter the lake together. The spawning season is in November and December ; about which time the char in shoals make their way up both these rivers ; but invariably before depositing their spawn, those fish which have ascended over the sandy bed of the Rothay, return and pass up the rocky channel of the Brathay ; the trout in their spawning season prefer the Rothay. A few char also spawn in the lake, and it is observed that they frequent the strong parts only, which resemble the bottom of the Brathay." YAKEELL'S History of British Fishes. 22 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. tower and the remains of what was a finely painted chancel-window, which originally belonged to Furness Abbey " All garlanded with carven imageries, And diamonded with panes of quaint device." When perfect it had seven compartments ; the second represents St. George and the Dragon ; on the third, fourth, and fifth, the Crucifixion is figured, with the Virgin on one side, and St. John, the beloved disciple, on the other side of the Cross, whilst the arms of France and England are quartered above, and a group of monks in the habit of their order, and labelled with their names, is pictured underneath. In the seventh division are depicted two mitred abbots, and below them two monks. Armed figures and tracery fill up the rest of the window, interspersed with the armorial bearings of families who conferred benefactions upon the abbey, amongst which the coat of the Flemings frequently occurs. The churchyard contains a monu- ment to the memory of Eichard Watson, Bishop of Llandaff, author of " The Apology for the Bible," and other well known works. He was born at Haversham in Westmoreland, where his father was schoolmaster for upwards of forty years. The bishop's residence, Calgarth Park, being in the immediate neighbourhood, he was interred here. The inscription upon his tomb is simply "Bicardi Watson, Episcopi Landavensis, cineribus sacrum obiit Julii I.A.D. 1816, ^Etatis 79." The interior of the church may be described in these lines, taken from "The Excursion," which have been suggested by this, or a similar structure : " Not raised in nice proportions was the pile, But large and massy, for duration built ; With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld By naked rafters, intricately crossed BOWNESS. 23 Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove All wither'd by the depth of shade above. Admonitory texts inscribed the walls Each in his ornamental scroll enclosed, Each also crown'd with winged heads a pair Of rudely-painted cherubim. The floor Of nave and aisle, in unpretending guise, Was occupied by oaken benches, ranged In seemly rows And marble monuments were here display'd Thronging the walls, and on the floor beneath Sepulchral stones appear'd with emblems graven, And foot- worn epitaphs, and some with small And shining effigies of brass inlaid." The school-house has recently been rebuilt through the munificence of the late Mr. Bolton of Storrs. It stands on an eminence to the east of the village, and forms a handsome edifice. The view from the front is exquisitely beautiful, comprising the whole of the upper half of the lake. The mountains round the head, into the recesses of which the waters seem to penetrate, arrange them- selves in highly graceful forms, and the wooded heights of the opposite shore cast their shadow upon "the bosom of the steady lake." From this point Belle Isle appears to be a portion of the mainland. The villas in the neighbourhood of Bowness are Storrs Hall (the Rev. Thos. Staniforth), Belfield (Mrs. Bryans), Ferney Green (C. E. Molyneux, Esq.), Burnside (G. A. Aufrere, Esp.), Belsfield (Jos. and Jno. Crossley), Belle Isle (jcs. R. Bridsou Esq.), Holly Hill (F. Clowes, Esq.), the Helm (G. Pritt, Esq.), Quarry Howe (Thos. Ullock, Esq.), The Craig (Vice- Admiral Sir T S. Pasley, Bart.), Craig Foot (Mrs. Beck), Mylnbeck (Capt. Pasley, R.N.), Thornbarrow House (Miss Stuart), Rayrigg (the Rev. F. Fleming), The Wood (G. B. Crewdson, Esq.), The Abbey (Wm. Inman, Esq.), The Grange (the Rev. J. 0. Routh), Elleray (Mrs. Piffard), St. Catherines (Earl of Bradford), Ibbotsholm (S. Taylor, Esq., sen.), Calgarth ( ), Ecclerigg (R. L. Watson, Esq.), Belle Grange (the Rev. Jno. Barling), Wray Castle (James Dawson, Esq.), The Priory (Wm. Carver, Esq.), Highfield ( Stansfield, Esq.), Hal- beck (Jas. Wrigley, Esq.), WansfeU (Thos. Wrigley, Esq.) 24 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. CIRCUIT OF WINDERMEEE FROM BOWNESS. Three quarters of a mile from Bowness, the stately woods of Eayrigg are entered. A bay of the lake is then seen to project almost to the road. Rayrigg House,* (thought by some persons to resemble Ferney, Voltaire's residence near the lake of Geneva), stands on the left, near the water's edge. Shortly before emerging from the wood, the road ascends a steep hill, and then pursues a level course, affording from its terrace a magnificent view of the lake a view " to which," says Wilson, " there was nothing to compare in the hanging gardens of Babylon. There is the widest breadth of water the richest foreground of wood and the most magnificent background of moun- tains, not only in Westmoreland, but, believe us in all the world." The two Pikes of Langdale, are easily recognised. On the left is Bowfell, a square-topped hill, between which and the Pikes, Great End and Great Gable peep up. On the left of Bowfell, the summit of Scawfell Pike is faintly visible. The road is intersected, two miles from Bowness, by the Kendal and Ambleside road, at a place called Cook's House, nine miles from Kendal. A road, commanding fine views of the upper portion of Windermere and the This house was, for several years, the summer residence of the esti- mable William Wilberforce. In 1788, the last year in which it was occupied by him, he thus writes : " I never enjoyed the country more than during this visit, when, in the early morning, I used to row out alone, and find an oratory under one of the woody islands in the middle of the lake." He fre- quently invited his friend William Pitt to share the delights of country life with him here ; but the Premier invariably found an excuse in the absorb- ing engagements of government. Another reminiscence of Wilberforce's visits to the lake country is preserved in a letter of Canning, written in 1814 : " Here I am, on Windermere lake, not far from the inn at Bowness, where in old time, I am told, you used to read aloud all night, to the great disturbance of the then landlady and her family." '> * 26 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. adjacent mountains, proceeds into Troutbeck, from Winlas Beck House by the west bank of the stream to the nearest part of the village, being a mile and a half distant. Continuing our progress towards Ambleside, Calgarth, embosomed in trees, is passed on the left. The late Bishop Watson built this mansion, and re- sided here during the latter years of his life. His grandson (R. L. Watson, Esq.) now occupies Ecclerigg, passed afterwards on the left. Two miles beyond Calgarth is Low WOOD HOTEL, which stands pleasantly on the margin of the lake at its broadest part, and is an excellent station for those who are able to devote a few days to the beauties of the neighbourhood. Most of the excursions recommended to be made from Ambleside may, with almost equal advantage, be performed from this place. On the opposite shore is Wray Castle, a large and elegant residence erected by James Dawson, Esq. of Liver- pool. Close at hand is Dove Nest, the house Mrs. Hemans inhabited one summer. Her description of the place, taken from her delightful letters, will not be deemed uninteresting : " The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne, which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced rose-trees spread- ing into wildness laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches ; and I cannot help saying to myself, ' Perhaps, some heart like my own, in its feel- ings and sufferings, has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style ; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from CIRCUIT OP WINDERMERE. 27 art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass-plot, on which grows one tall white rose-tree. You cannot imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglectedrlooking tree. I am writing to you from an old-fashioned alcove in the little garden, round which the sweet-briar and the rose-tree have completely run wild ; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mir- ror. I am so delighted with the spot, that I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement ; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like ' things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being over-shadowed by anything like sadness." Wansfell Holm (T. Wrigley, Esq.) is seen on the right, immediately before reaching the head of Winder- mere ; and Mr. Brook's new house is conspicuous on a rock near the water's edge. The road for the last three or four miles has been alternately approaching to and receding from the margin of the lake, but never retiring further from it than a few fathoms. At Water- head is a comfortable hotel, kept by Mr. Atkinson ; and further on, Waterside (Miss Armistead), is passed on the left. Six miles from Eowness, and one mile beyond, at the head of the lake, Ambleside (afterwards described) is entered. AMBLESIDE TO THE FERRY, ETC. Leaving Ambleside, we proceed along the west shore of the lake. Passing Croft Lodge ( Jarvis, Esq.) on the right, Brathay Bridge is crossed at Clappersgate, one mile from Ambleside, and shortly afterwards Brathay Hall (G. Eedmayne, Esq.) is seen 28 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. on the left. A bay, called Pull Wyke, there makes a deep indentation ; and looking across the lake, Wansfell Holm, Low Wood Hotel, and lower down, Calgarth, are pleasing objects. Wansfell Pike and the Troutbeck Hundreds to^er above them. The road to Hawkshead having deviated to the right, the village of High Wray is gained, five miles from Ambleside ; and three miles beyond, is THE FERRY HOTEL, a well-conducted establishment. (Coach daily during summer to Coniston.) At this place a promontory pushes out from each shore, and a public ferry is established between them, in continuation of the road from Kendal to Hawkshead. The village of Bowness is a pretty object on the east margin of the lake. One mile and a half from the Ferry Hotel, the stream called Cunsey, which runs from Esthwaite Water, is crossed. At a short distance from the place where this stream joins the lake, is the island called Ling Holm. On the opposite margin, the Storrs promontory is seen projecting into the lake. Two miles beyond is the village of Graithwaite, in the vicinity of which is Graithwaite HalL From this place to Newby Bridge, the road passes through a section of the country, covered chiefly with coppices. From the surface of the lake, near Silver Holm, the peak of Helvellyn is visible. As the foot of the lake is approached, it narrows rapidly and becomes literally "Wooded Winandermere, the river-lake." Landing is passed on the left, shortly before reaching NEWBY BRIDGE. [Inn: Swan]. The stream which issues from the lake takes the name of the Leven. From this place to the principal towns in the neigh- bourhood, the distances are : Ulverston, eight miles ; 30 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Kendal, by way of Cartmell Fell, ten miles by Levens Bridge, fifteen miles ; .Ambleside, by the road we have described, fifteen miles ; Bowness, nine miles. On crossing the bridge, Mr. Machell's neat residence is seen on the right, and further on, Fell Foot is passed on the left ; a short distance beyond, Townhead is near the road on the left, about two miles from Newby Bridge. The road passes under an eminence of the Cartmell Fell chain, called Gummer's How, which forms a conspicuous object in all views from the upper end of the lake. Six miles from Newby Bridge is Storrs Hall, the residence of the Rev. Thomas Staniforth. The road leading from Kendal to the Ferry is next crossed, some villas are passed, and we regain the village of Bowness. CHAK. This fish, which the epicure places in his list ot dainties, is found in Ennerdale Lake, Crummock Water, Buttermere, Windermere, and Coniston Lake, the finest being taken in the last. It always frequents the deep- est parts, and feeds principally by night, so that the angler has seldom an opportunity of taking it. The usual mode of fishing for char is with nets, and most of the inns situate near the lakes in which it is found have a stew into which it is thrown as soon as caught, and kept ready for use. The ordinary length of the fish is from nine to twelve inches, and it is in its great- est perfection from July to October. It has been con- jectured that char was introduced into these lakes by the Romans, who, in the decline of the empire, were withheld by no considerations of trouble or expense from gratifying their luxurious appetite. The char found in the Welsh lakes is of a distinct species, but Agassiz, the Genevese naturalist, states that the char WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS. 31 of the north of England is identical with the ombre chevalier of the Lake of Geneva* WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS. BOATING, AND THE ISLANDS. Boating upon the Lake will probably be the source of amusement most frequently resorted to. The various islands should be visited and these being unusually pro- lific in plants, will afford much amusing occupation- to the botanist. Sailing towards the head of the Lake, we enjoy the same prospect as that seen from the north- ern extremity of Belle Isle. As we advance, Langdale Pikes start from behind Furness Fells ; several moun- tain-tops intervene, and then Wetherlam's massy front appears. A short pull will take the boat to BELLE ISLE, upon which strangers are allowed to land. It con- tains Mr. Curwen's residence, erected by Mr. English in 1776. This structure forms a perfect circle, fifty- four feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome-shaped roof, and contains four storeys, the kitchens and offices being sunk nine feet below the surface of the ground. The principal entrance is a portico, supported by six massy columns and two pilasters. The stones used in the building are, for the most part, of extraordinary size, some being twenty-two feet in length, and a great num- ber fifteen feet. When the ground underneath the site of the house was excavated, traces of an ancient build- * There are two varieties of char, supposed by many naturalists to be distinct species. One, known as red char or torgoch (salmo savelinus), spawns in the depths of the lakes about the end of December, or even so late as February; while that known as case char enters some tributary stream to perform this function generally in September or October. It is believed that the first-named variety or species never leaves the depths of' the lake. 32 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ing were discovered at a considerable depth below the surface, and several pieces of old armour were found at the same time. The island,* which is rather more than a mile in circumference, contains upwards of thirty acres. It is intersected by neat walks, over which fine trees throw their massy arms. In high floods it is cut in two by the water. From its northern extremity, looking towards the head of the lake, the prospect is particularly beautiful The islet to the left is Hen * This island was formerly the property and residence of the Philipsons, an ancient Westmoreland family, who were owners of Calgarth also. During the civil war between Charles I. and the Parliament, there were two brothers, both of whom had espoused the royal cause. The elder, to whom the island belonged, was a colonel, and the younger a major in the royal army. The latter was a man of high and adventurous courage ; and from some of his desperate exploits had acquired amongst the Parliamen- tarians the appellation of Robin the Devil. It happened, when the king's death had extinguished for a time the ardour of the cavaliers, that a certain Colonel Briggs, an officer in Oliver's army, resident in Kendal, having heard that Major Philipson was secreted in his brother's house on Belle Isle, went thither, armed with his double authority, (for, like Sir Hudibras, he was a civil magistrate as well as a military man " Great on the bench, great in the saddle, Mighty he was at both of these, And styled of War as well as Peace"), with the view of making a prisoner of the obnoxious Royalist. The major, however, was on the alert, and gallantly withstood a siege of eight months until his brother came to his relief. The attack being repulsed, the major was not a man to sit down quietly under the insult he had received. He raised a small band of horse, and set forth one Sunday morning in search of Briggs. Upon arriving at Kendal, he was informed the colonel was at prayers. Without hesitation, he proceeded to church, and having posted his men at the chief entrance, dashed forward himself down the principal aisle into the midst of the assemblage. Whatever was his intention whether to shoot the colonel on the spot, or merely to carry him off prisoner it was defeated : his enemy was not present. The congregation, struck with amazement at the sudden apparition of an armed man on horseback in the midst of their devotions, made no attempt to seize the major, who, on discovering that his object could not be effected, galloped up another aisle. As he was making his exit from the church, his head came violently in contact with the arch of the doorway, which was much lower than that through which he had entered. His helmet was struck off by the blow, his saddle-girth gave way, and he himself was much stunned. The congre- WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS. 33 Holm, the next is Lady Holm. Wansfell Pike is be- held over the former, and to the right of this mountain the valley of Troutbeck lies amongst the hills. The wooded park is seen rising from the bottom of the vale. The eminences to the right are those of the Kentmere range, Hillbell, and High Street, separating Troutbeck from Kentmere. Loughrigg Fell, at the north-west angle of the lake, diminishes to a mere hillock. Fair- field is in full view, crowning a chain of hills terminated by Eydal Nab ; but the pass of Kirkstone is concealed by Wansfell. gation, taking advantage of the mishap, attempted to detain him ; but with the assistance of his followers, he made his escape, after a violent struggle, and rode back to his brother's house. The helmet still hangs in one of the aisles of Kendal church. This incident furnished Sir Walter Scott with a hint for his description of a similar adventure in " Rokeby," canto vi. " All eyes upon the gateway hung, When through the Gothic arch there sprung A horseman armed at headlong speed Sable his cloak, his plume, his steed- Fire from the flinty floor was spurn'd, The vaults unwonted clang return'd ! One instant's glance around he threw, From saddle-bow his pistol drew, Grimly determined was his look, His charger with his spurs he struck All scattered backward as he came, For all knew Bertram Risingham. Three bounds that noble courser gave, The first has reached the central nave, The second cleared the chancel wide, The third he was at Wycliffe's side, While yet the smoke the deed conceals, Bertram his ready charger wheels But flounder'd on the pavement floor The steed, and down the rider bore And bursting in the headlong sway, The faithless saddle-girths gave way. 'Twas while he toiled him to be freed, And with the rein to raise the steed, That from amazement's iron trance, All Wycliffe's soldiers waked at once." D 34 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. The shores of Windermere suddenly contract near Bowness ; and between the two promontories a public ferry is established, by means of which passengers, cattle, and vehicles, are conveyed across the Lake at a trifling charge. About the year 1635, a marriage was celebrated at Hawkshead, between a wealthy yeoman from the neighbourhood of Bowness, and a lady of the family of Sawrey, of Sawrey. As is still customary in "Westmoreland amongst the rustic population, the married couple were attended by a numerous concourse of friends. In conducting the bridegroom homewards, and crossing the ferry, the boat was swamped either by an eddy of wind or by too great a pressure on one side, and up- wards of fifty persons, including the bride and bride- groom perished. " In crossing the water at the ferry," says Mrs. Radcliffe, "the illusion of vision gave force to the northern mountains, which, viewed from hence, seem to ascend from its margin, and spread round it in a magnificent amphitheatre. This was to us the most interesting view in Windermere. On our approaching the western shore, the range of rocks that form it dis- covered their cliffs, and gradually assumed a consequence which the breadth of the channel had denied them, and their darkness was well opposed by the bright verdure and variegated autumnal tints of the isles at their base." The tourist should not fail to visit the STATION, a pleasure-house behind the Ferry Hotel, belonging to Mr. Bridson, of Belle Isle, standing on a spot whence fine views of the surrounding scenery are commanded. " The view from the Station," says Professor Wilson, " is a very delightful one, but it requires a fine day. Its character is of that beauty which disappears almost utterly in wet or drizzly weather. If there be strong bright sunshine, a 'blue breeze' perhaps gives animation NE VIEWS WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS. 35 to the scene. You look down on the islands which are here very happily disposed. The banks of Winder- mere are rich and various in groves, woods, coppice, and corn-fields. The large deep valley of Troutbeck stretches finely away up the mountains of High Street and Hill-bell hill and eminence are all cultivated wherever the trees have been cleared away, and nume- rous villas are visible in every direction, which, although not perhaps all built on very tasteful models, have yet an airy and sprightly character ; and with their fields of brighter verdure and sheltering groves, may be fairly allowed to add to, rather than detract from, the beauty of the scene, one of whose chief charms is that it is the cheerful abode of social life." Several interesting walks will be pointed out to strangers, amongst which we may mention those through the Parsonage Land to the Ferry Point, to Storrs, and to Bellman Ground. Bisket How, from which one of the outline views is taken, is a bold point of lichen- stained rock, about 300 yards from the village. The mansion-house of Storrs Hall, formerly the residence of John Bolton, Esq., now of the Eev. Thomas Staniforth, is seated amongst fine grounds, extending to the margin of the lake. It contains some good pictures, and was built by Sir John Legard, Bart., but extensive additions were made to it by its late owner. Here Mr. Canning was wont to pay frequent visits, withdrawing for a time from the cares of public life to breathe the fresh air of nature.* * The following passage, from Mr. Lockhart's " Life of Scott," graphically describes one of these visits, to which the presence of Wordsworth, Southey, Scott, and Professor Wilson, gave peculiar interest : " A large company had been assembled at Mr. Bolton's seat, in honour of the minister it included Mr. Wordsworth and Mr. Southey. It has not, I suppose, often happened to a plain English merchant ; wholly the architect 36 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. If the tourist will take the trouble to proceed about half a mile along the road to Brant Fell (i. e., steep fell), leading between the School-house and the Crown Hotel, he will be rewarded by one of the finest views of the lake he can obtain. The Fells of Furness are seen across the lake ; but the murmuring " Bees that soar for bloom, High as the highest peak of Furness Fells,' 1 * are of course inaudible. Above the Fells the tops of Coniston Old Man, and Bowfell are caught. On the of his own fortunes, to entertain at one time a party embracing so many illustrious names. He was proud of his guests ; they respected him, and honoured and loved each other; and it would have been difficult to say which star in the constellation shone with the brightest or the softest light. There was ' high discourse," intermingled with as gay flashings of courtly wit as ever Canning displayed ; and a plentiful allowance on all sides of those airy transient pleasantries, in which the fancy of poets, however wise and grave, delights to run riot, when they are sure not to be misunder- stood. There were beautiful and accomplished women to adorn and enjoy this circle. The weather was as Elysian as the scenery. There were brilliant cavalcades through the woods in the mornings, and delicious boatings on the lake by moonlight; and the last day Professor Wilson (' the Admiral of the Lake,' as Canning called him) presided over one of the most splendid regattas that ever enlivened Windermere. Perhaps there were not fewer than fifty barges following in the Professor's radiant proces- sion when it paused at the point of Storrs to admit into the place of honour the vessel that tarried kind and happy Mr. Bolton and his guests. The three bards of the lakes led the cheers that hailed Scott and Canning ; and music, and sunshine, flags, streamers, and gay dresses, the merry hum of voices, and the rapid splashing of innumerable oars, made up a dazzling mixture of sensations as the flotilla wound its way among the richly-foliaged islands, and along bays and promontories peopled with enthusiastic spec- tators." The visit in question is thus spoken of by Professor Wilson: "Me- thought there passed along the lawn the image of one now in his tomb. The memory of that bright day returns, when Windermere glittered with all her sails in honour of the Great Northern Minstrel, and of him the Eloquent, whose lips are now mute in dust. Methinks we see his smile benign that we hear his voice silver sweet." Wordsworth. WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM BOWNESS. 37 right shore, near the head, Wansfell pushes its foot into the lake. Belle Isle stretches its length of beauty below. The outline view from Bisket How will assist in naming the other parts of the landscape. A pleasing walk of four or five miles may be ob- tained thus ; Pursue the road to Ambleside until it enters that from Kendal ; turn to the right, and keep on this road for about a mile. The wood, St. Cathe- rine's, and Elleray, are passed on the left. Elleray belonged to the late Professor Wilson of Edinburgh, and was recently occupied by Thomas Hamilton, Esq., the author of " Cyril Thornton," of a " History of the Peninsular Campaigns," and of " Men and Manners in America." The house is perched upon the hill side, and beautiful views of the surrounding scenery are ob- tained from the windows. It is thus alluded to in one of the poems of its owner : "And sweet that dwelling rests upon the brow (Beneath its sycamore) of Orrest hill, As if it smiled on Windermere below, Her green recesses and her islands still !" "The scene around," says Mrs. Hemans, "is in itself a festival. I never saw any landscape bearing so triumphant a character. The house, which is beautiful, seems built as if to overlook some fairy pageant, some- thing like the Venetian splendour of old, in the glorious lake beneath." A narrow lane branches off from the Kendal Eoad, near Orrest Head to Bowness, one mile and a half distant. The more distant excursions will include the valley of Troutbeck, the ascent of High Street, the circuit of the two sections of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Lake. These are but a few of the rambles which an inspection of the chart will suggest. 38 AMBLESIDE. [Hotels : Salutation ; and Lowwood Hotel a mile down the lake ; Atkinson's Waterhead Hotel ; The Queen's ; White Lion.] AMBLESIDE, a small and irregularly built market village, of nearly 1500 inhabitants, is situate on steeply in- clined ground, a mile from the head of "Windermere. The valley, on the border of which the village stands, is well wooded, and watered by several streams ; the principal river is the Rothay, which flows from Gras- mere and Eydal Lakes, and joins the Brathay from Langdale, shortly before entering Windermere. Lying immediately under "Wansfell, and encircled by moun- tains on all sides, except the south-west, the situation is one of great beauty, and consequently, during summer, it is much frequented by tourists. The new church of St. Mary, Ambleside, was completed and consecrated by the Bishop of Chester in the year 1854. It stands near the centre of the valley, a little to the west of the town, and is built of the dark grey stone of the district, but the spire is of free-stone, and the mullions of the windows, the copings of the buttresses, and the doors, are also faced with the same material The steeple is unusually large in proportion to the rest of the building, and is rather singularly situated at the south-east corner. The interior consists of a central aisle and two smaller ones, and is seated for 1000, about half that number being free. In the N.E. corner are three stained glass windows, the principal of which was presented, as the following inscription records, by a number of friends and admirers, both English and American : " 1853. In Meinoriam Gulielmi Wordsworth, P. C. amatores et amici partim Angli partim Anglo- Am ericani." MILLS AT AMBLESIDE 40 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. The organ, which was purchased at Birthwaite, and originally cost 200, is a very pleasing instrument, and well adapted for the size of the church. There are six very good bells in the tower. Along the side of the church are the Free Gram- mar, National, and Infant schools ; and adjoining the former, the Wordsworth Memorial Library. An interesting ceremony takes place at Ambleside once every year, which the stranger may think himself fortunate in seeing, not so much for the mere sight itself, though that is pretty enough, as for its being the vestige of a very ancient observance. The ceremony alluded to is called the Rush-bearing. On the eve of the last Sunday in July, the village girls walk in proces- sion to the chapel, bearing garlands of flowers (formerly rushes), which are there tastefully disposed. After service the day fol- lowing, these are removed, and it is usual that a sermon, in allusion to the event, be preached. This observance is probably as remote as the age of Gregory IV., who is known to have re- commended to the early disseminators of Christianity in this country, that on the anniversary of the dedication of churches wrested from the Pagans, the converts should build themselves huts, of the boughs of trees, about their churches, and celebrate the solemnities with religious feasting. In former times the rushes were spread on the floor of the sacred edifice, and the garlands remained until withered. Possibly the practice of covering the floors of buildings with rushes, by way of protection against the damp earth, may have had something to do with keeping the custom in existence, long after the origin of the institution had been forgotten. The ceremony of Rush-bearing has now fallen into complete disuse, except in a few secluded hamlets in Westmoreland, and in one or two other places in the kingdom; nor can that disuse be much regretted, since what was founded as a religious act, everywhere degenerated into an occasion for unseemly revelry in fact, into a sort of rustic saturnalia. And yet, when we look at this remain of the olden time, as observed at Ambleside, we are tempted to say with the poet, " Many precious rites And customs of our rural ancestry Are gone or stealing from us : this I hope Will last for ever." The villas in the neighbourhood of Ambleside are numerous : Fox Ghyll (Miss Wilson's), Fox Howe (Mrs. Arnold), Rothay WALKS ANU EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 41 Bank (J. Crossfield, Esq.), Oak Bank (Miss Gill), The Cottage (E. H. Clark, Esq.), Lesketh Howe (Dr. Davy), Meadow Bank (Miss James), Gale Bank (Miss Napier), The Knoll (Miss Martineau), Covey Cottage (George Partridge, Esq.), Belle Vue (Matthew Harrison, Esq.), Green Bank (Mrs. Harrison), Hill Top ( ), Brathay Hall (Mrs. Kedmayne), Croft Lodge (T. B. Jervis, Esq.), Lough - rigg Brow (Rev. C. D. Bell), Wanless How (Miss Brooks), "Wansfell Holme (T. Wrigley, Esq.), Wray Castle (James Dawson, Esq.) Eydal and Grasmere Rydal Hall (Gen. le Fleming), Rydal Mount (J. G. Thorn, Esq.), GlenRothay (William Ball, Esq.), Allan Bank (Thomas Dawson, Esq.), The Cottage (Miss Agre), Forrest Side (C. Young, Esq.), Dale Lodge (Dowager Lady Farquhar). WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. These are so numerous, that our limits will only allow us to particularise a few. The chart of Winder- meie will render the stranger considerable assistance in any rambles he may wish to undertake. In a field near the edge of Windermere, are the indistinct remains of a BOMAN STATION, where coins, urns, and other relics have been frequently discovered. In the Library of the University of Oxford there is a collection of coins found at this place. Camden sur- mises that the Amboglana of the Notitia was seated here; but this supposition is beset with insuperable difficulties, and the place is now generally believed to be the site of the Station Dictis. The freestone used in the construction of the fortification is supposed to have beea brought from Dalton in Furness, near Ulver- ston. The castrum was a parallelogram of 396 feet by 240, the shorter side being nearest the Lake. STOCK GILL, a tributary to the Eothay, is a fine FORCE, in a copsewood about ten minutes' walk from the Market House the road to which passes through the stable-yard of the Salutation Hotel. After passing a picturesque mill, take the path on the left (the road on 42 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. the right leading to Wansfell). The river dashes along all the way, and we soon know from the noise that the fall is at hand. The water makes three falls, altogether 70 feet in height the two highest being divided into two parts by projecting rocks; portions of all are visible from the usual stand; but the views may be pleasingly varied by descending the bank to the stream, or proceeding further up the Gill. Indeed, if the walk were continued for a mile alongside the stream, which rises in Kirkstone, much beautiful scenery would be witnessed. In addition to the walk to the Rydal Falls, and that under Loughrigg Fell to Pelter Bridge, both described hereafter, a stroll to Loughrigg Tarn,* " Diana's looking glass," should not be omitted. From Ivy Crag, a rock overhanging that piece of water, a very delightful prospect is obtained, and the walk to Round Knott, at the eastern extremity of LougLrigg Fell, is highly recommended. A ramble on the side of "Wansfell, passing behind Low Wood Inn, will yield much gratification. Begin at Low Fold, and ascend through the woods for upwards of a mile, to High Skelgill. Here an extensive prospect opens out, em- * " Long hast thou been a darling haunt of mine, And still warm blessings gush'd into my heart, Meeting or parting with thy smiles of peace O gentlest Lake ! from all unhallow'd things By grandeur guarded in thy loveliness ; Ne'er may thy poet, with unwelcome feet, Press thy soft moss, embath'd in flowery dies, And shadowed in thy stillness like the heavens Yea, sweet Lake, Oft hast thou borne into my grateful heart Thy lovely presence, with a thousand dreams Dancing and brightening o'er thy sunny wave, Through many a weary mile of mist and snow Between us interposed." PROFESSOR WILSON . LOUHGRIGG FELL TROUTBECK. 43 bracing the vale of Ambleside (through which the Brathay and the Eothay wind), the Eydal and Lang- dale mountains, and immediately opposite, the wooded crags of Loughrigg Fell Then descend for a quarter of a mile, to Low Skelgill, whence the lake presents a remarkably beautiful aspect, and drop down by the side of a stream to Low Wood. The whole walk, including the return to Ambleside by the margin of the lake, is about five miles. The active pedestrian may cross the pass of Kirk- stone to Ulleswater ; ascend Wansfell Pike ; climb to the summit of Fairfield, at the head of Eydal, beginning the ascent at the Eydal Hall road; or content himself with scaling LOUGHEIGG FELL, a rocky hill, which rises on the west of Ambleside to an elevation of 1000 feet above Windermere. It com- mands extensive views of the vale and surrounding mountains, as well as of Windermere, Grasmere, and Eydal Lake, Blelham, Loughrigg, and Elterwater Tarns, with the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead. An excursion of ten miles through the retired side- valley of TROUTBECK may be conveniently made from Ambleside. As the latter part of the route is practicable for horsemen and pedestrains only, those who take conveyances will be compelled to return by the road they go, as soon as they arrive at the head of Troutbeck, unless they pro- ceed by way of Kirkstone to Patterdale. The tourist must pursue the Kendal road for two miles, and take the first road on the left when he has passed Low Wood Inn. From the eminences of this road, many 44: GUIDE TO THE LAKES. exquisite views of Windermere are obtained ; and, per- haps, the finest view of the lake that can be had from any station, is that from the highest part of it. The mountains in the west present an admirable outline, and the whole length of the lake stretches out before the spectator, " with all its fairy crowds Of islands that together lie As quietly as spots of sky Amongst the evening clouds." " There is not," says Professor Wilson, speaking of the view from a station near this, "such another splendid prospect in all England. The lake has much of the character of a river, without losing its own. The islands are seen almost all lying together in a cluster below which, all is loveliness and beauty above, all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle pro- montories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages embowered in trees, and, while the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods, that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on prime- val forests." One mile and a half from Low "Wood, one extremity of the "long vale- village " of Troutbeck is reached, at a point about a mile and a half from Troutbeck Bridge, on the Kendal and Ambleside road, and about four miles from Bowness. The rude pictu- resqueness of its many-chimneyed cottages, with their unnumbered gables and slate-slab porticos, will not be passed unnoticed by the tourist, as he bends his way towards the hills. "The cottages," says the writer from whom our last extract was made, " stand for the most part in clusters of twos and threes, with here and there what in Scotland is called a clachan, many a "THE MORTAL MAN." 45 sma' toun within the ae lang toun; but where, in all broad Scotland, is a mile-long scattered congregation of rural dwellings, all dropped down where the Painter and the Poet would have wished to plant them, on knolls and in dells, on banks and braes, and below tree-crested rocks and all bound together in picturesque confusion, by old groves of ash, oak, and sycamore, and by flower-gardens and fruit-orchards, rich as those of the Hesperides?" The road pursues the western side of the valley, at some distance from the lowest level, which is occupied by the stream giving its name to the village. On the opposite side, the Howe, the residence of Captain Wilson, E.K, will be observed; and further on, the chapel is perceived on the banks of the stream, near the bridge by which the roads are connected. That on the east side is the most direct road from Bowness to the valley, but it is objection- able on account of its not conducting the traveller through a great portion of the village. The road on the western flank joins the Kendal and Ambleside road at Troutbeck Bridge (Inn: The Sun, good), keeping throughout on the banks of the stream, the meanderings of which, on its way to Windermere, round rugged scaurs and wooded banks, are continually in sight. Half a mile beyond the chapel, is a small inn, bearing the quaint title of "The Mortal Man," a name acquired from the lines, composed by the Laureate of Troutbeck, which a few years ago predomi- nated over the doorway : " Mortal Man, that liv'st on bread, How comes thy nose to be so red ? Thou silly ass, that looks so pale, It is with drinking Birkett's ale." Two miles beyond the inn, the tourist has immediately below him, a high swelling from the bottom of the vale, 46 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. called Troutbeck Tongue, which is visible even from the surface of Windermere. Taking his station here, and turning to the north-east, the spectator has the mountains of Kentmere before him. The nearest elevation is called the Yoke ; the two next, having the appearance of the humps on a camel's back, are Hill Bell and Frossick ; and further on, is Thornthwaite Crag, the western extremity of High Street. Having left the Mortal Man three miles behind, and climbed the side of Woundale for some distance, until the western mountains begin to make their appearance, a road through the fields, on the left, will be discovered, which, after presenting a charming view of the head of "Windermere, passes, in succession, three farm-houses, High Grove, Middle Grove, and Low Grove, in Stock- dale, and enters Ambleside, three miles from the deviation. By continuing the ascent for a mile further, the tourist would enter the road from Ambleside to Ulleswater, at the pass of Kirkstone. A few particulars relative to Troutbeck may be here mentioned. To begin with the least disputable portion of them, this valley was the birth-place of the father of Hogarth, the most intensely English of our painters. Though now bare of wood, the old inhabi- tants say that a squirrel could once have passed from the margin of Windermere to Thresthwaite Mouth, the slack at the head of the vale, without touching the ground. The people sometimes play upon the wonder of strangers by talking of their three hundred bulls, constables, and bridges; the explanation of which is, that a portion of the township is divided into three parts, called hundreds, each of which had a bull, a constable, and a bridge. A giant dwelt in Troutbeck in days of yore by name Hugh Hird who could lift a beam too heavy for ten ordinary riien ; drove back a RYDAL, GRASMERE, ETC. 47 party of Scotch marauders with his bow and arrows ; and, upon being sent with despatches to court, surprised his Majesty no less by his feats of strength than by his voracity, fixing, when presented with a bill of fare, upon the sunny side of a wether ; i. e., he selected a whole sheep. These tales are firmly believed by the yeomen of Troutbeck, for as yet no Niebuhr has arisen amongst them. RYDAL, GRASMERE, EASDALE, AND THIRLEMERE. The walk from Ambleside to Eydal, along the banks of the Eothay, and underneath Loughrigg Fell, is extremely delightful. Though more circuitous than the highway, it presents finer combinations of scenery. The tourist, intending to take this round, should pur- sue the road to Clappersgate for half a mile to Eothay Bridge, and having crossed the bridge, enter the first gate on the right. The road leads alongside the river, passing many pretty houses (amongst which is one built and inhabited by the late Dr. Arnold), to Pelter Bridge, two miles and a half. Eydal Hall, with its park, and Eydal Mount, will be frequently in sight. Behind, Ambleside, backed by Wansfell, has a pictu- resque appearance. On the right are the heights of Fairfield and Kirkstone. By crossing the bridge, the Keswick Eoad will be gained, and the tourist can then either return to Ambleside, or proceed to Eydal, which is 300 or 400 yards further. Those who are fond of long walks, should, instead of crossing the bridge, keep to the left and pursue the road behind the farm house, called Coat How, which leads above the south-west shore of Eydal Mere. This Mere being passed, the LOWER FALL RYDAL. RYDAL. 49 road ascends the hill side steeply for some time, until it reaches a splendid terrace, overlooking Grasmere Lake, with its single islet, and then, climbing again, joins, on Eed Bank, the Grasmere and Langdale road. Here the tourist has the choice of returning to Amble- side by Loughrigg Tarn and Clappersgate, or proceeding to Grasmere village, in doing which he will pass in succession Dale End, the Wyke, and the Cottage, all on the margin of the lake. The village of EYDAL is placed in a narrow gorge, formed by the advance of Loughrigg Fell and Eydal Knab, near the lower extremity of Rydal Mere, one mile and a quarter from Ambleside. Here, in the midst of a park containing great numbers of noble forest trees,* stands Eydal Hall, the seat of Lady le Fleming. The ancestor of the Flemings came to England, out of Flanders, with the Conqueror, and obtained large grants of land in Lancashire north of the Sands. Gleaston Castle, in Furness, and Coniston Hall, were residences of the family before they settled at Eydal. The celebrated WATERFALLS are within the park ; and strangers desirous to view them must take a conductor from one of the cottages near the park gates. The fall below the house is beheld from the window of an old summer-house. " Here," says Mason, the biographer of Gray, in one of the most perfect pictures that words ever drew, " nature has performed * " The sylvan, or say rather the forest scenery of Rydal Park, was, in the memory of living men, magnificent, and it still contains a treasure of old trees. By all means wander away into those old woods, and lose your- selves for an hour or two among the cooing of cushats, and the shrill shriek of startled blackbirds, and the rustle of the harmless glow-worm among the last year's red beech-leaves. No very great harm should you even fall asleep under the shadow of an oak, while the magpie chatters at safe distance, and the more innocent squirrel peeps down upon you from a bough of the canopy, and then hoisting his tail, glides into the obscurity of the loftiest umbrage." PROFESSOR WILSON. 50 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. everything in little, which she usually executes on her larger scale ; and, on that account, like the miniature- painter, seems to have finished every part of it in a studied manner ; not a little fragment of rock thrown into the basin, not a single stem of brushwood that starts from its craggy sides, but has its picturesque meaning ; and the little central stream, dashing down a cleft of the darkest-coloured stone, produces an effect of light and shadow beautiful beyond description. This little theatrical scene might be painted as large as the original, on a canvas not bigger than those usually dropped in the Opera-house." Amongst the juvenile poems of "Wordsworth, also, there is a sketch of this cascade : " While thick above the rill the branches close, In rocky basin its wild waves repose, Inverted shrubs, and moss of gloomy green, Cling from the rocks with pale wood-weeds between ; Save that aloft the subtle sunbeams shine On wither'd briars, that o'er the crags recline, Sole light admitted there, a small cascade Illumes with sparkling foam the impervious shade ; Beyond, along the vista of the brook, Where antique roots its bristling course o'erlook, The eye reposes on a secret bridge, Half grey, half shagg'd with ivy to its ridge." The chapel, from its prominent position, arrests the stranger's notice the moment he arrives at the village. It was erected at the expense of Lady le Fleming in 1824. Wordsworth addressed some verses to her ladyship on seeing the foundation preparing for its erection, from which these lines are taken : " Lady ! from a noble line Of Chieftains sprung, who stoutly liore The spear, yet gave to works divine A bounteous help in days of yore, Thee kindred aspirations moved To build, within a vale beloved, RYDAL. 51 For Him, upon whose high behests All peace depends, all safety rests. How fondly will the woods embrace This daughter of thy pious care, Lifting her front, with modest grace, To make a fair recess more fair And to exalt the passing hour, Or soothe it with a healing power, Drawn from the Sacrifice fulfill'd, Before this rugged soil was till'd ; Or human habitation rose To interrupt the deep repose. Well may the villagers rejoice ! Nor heat, nor cold, nor weary ways, Will be a hindrance to the voice That would unite in prayer and praise ; More duly shall wild wandering youth Receive the curb of sacred truth ; Shall tottering age, bent earthward, hear The Promise, with uplifted ear ; And all shall welcome the new ray Imparted to their Sabbath day. Nor deem the Poet's hope misplaced, His fancy cheated that can see A shade upon the future cast, Of Time's pathetic sanctity ; Can hear the monitory clock Sound o'er the lake, with gentle shock, At evening, when the ground beneath Is ruffled o'er with cells of death, Where happy generations lie Here tutor'd for eternity." Eydal Mount, for many years the residence of Wordsworth,* stands on a projection of the hill called Xab Scar, and is approached by the road leading to the Hall. It is, as Mrs. Hemans in one of her letters describes it, "a lovely cottage-like building, almost hidden by a profusion of roses and ivy." The grounds laid out in a great measure by the hands of the poet himself, though but of circumscribed dimensions, are * We observe that the furniture at Rydal Mount was sold by auction in May 1859. Mrs. Wordsworth is dead, and the home that was the poet's is now broken up. 52 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. so artfully whilst seeming to be so artlessly planned, as to appear of considerable extent. From a grassy mound in front, " commanding a view always so rich, and sometimes so brightly solemn, that one can well imagine its influence traceable in many of the poet's writings, you catch a gleam of Windermere over the grove tops close at hand are Eydal Hall, and its ancient woods right opposite the Loughrigg Fells, ferny, rocky, and sylvan, and to the right Eydal Mere, scarcely seen through embowering trees, whilst just below, the chapel lifts up its little tower."* The poet's abode has been so prettily and correctly sketched in verse * We shall make no apology, because we are sure none will be required, for introducing, in this place, the following passage, relative to the illustri- ous poet, from an essay by that eloquent writer Thomas De Quincey : " It must rejoice every man who joins in the homage offered to Words- worth's powers (and what man is to be found who more or less does not ?) to hear, with respect to one so lavishly endowed by nature, that he has not been neglected by fortune ; that he has never had the finer edge of his sensibilities dulled by the sad anxieties, the degrading fears, the miserable dependencies of debt ; that he has been blest with competency, even when poorest; has had hope and cheerful prospects in reversion through every stage of his life ; that at all times he has been liberated from reasonable anxieties about the final interests of his children ; that at all times he has been blessed with leisure, the very amplest that man ever enjoyed, for intellectual pursuits the most delightful ; yes, that even for those delicate and coy pursuits, he has possessed, in combination, all the conditions for their most perfect culture the leisure the ease the solitude the society the domestic peace the local scenery Paradise for his eye, in Miltonic beauty, lying outside his windows Paradise for his heart, in the perpetual happiness of his own fireside ; and finally, when increasing years might be supposed to demand something more of modern luxuries, and expanding intercourse with society, in its most polished forms, something more of refined elegancies, that his means, still keeping pace in almost arithmetical ratio with his wants, had shed the graces of art upon the failing powers of nature, had stripped infirmity of discomfort, and (so far as the necessities of things will allow) had placed the final stages of life by means of many compensations, by universal praise, by plaudits, reverberated from senates, benedictions wherever his poems have penetrated, honour, troops of friends in short, by all that miraculous prosperity can do to evade the primal decrees of nature had placed the final stages npon a level with the first." Recollections of the Lakes, by Thomas de Quincey. 54 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. by Miss Jewsbury, that we cannot refrain from transfer- ring the lines to our pages, as a pendant to the prose description given above : " Low and white, yet scarcely seen, Are its walls for mantling green, Not a window lets in light But through flowers clustering bright ; Not a glance may wander there But it falls on something fair ; Garden choice and fairy mound, Only that no elves are found ; Winding walk and shelter'd nook ; For student grave and graver book ; Or a bird-like bower, perchance, Fit for maiden and romance. Then, far off, a glorious sheen Of wide and sunlit waters seen ; Hills that in the distance lie Blue and yielding as the sky ; And nearer, closing round the nest, The home, of all the ' living crest ;' Other rocks and mountains stand Rugged, yet a guardian band, Like those that did in fable old Elysium from the world infold." A footpath strikes off from the top of the Rydal Mount road, and, passing at a considerable height on the hill side under Nab Scar, commands charming views of the vale, and rejoins the high road at White Moss Quarry. The commanding and varied prospect obtained from the summit of Nab Scar richly repays the labour of the ascent. From the summit, eight different sheets of water are seen viz. Windermere, Rydal, Grasmere, Esth- waite, and Coniston Lakes ; and Easdale, Elterwater, and Blelham Tarns. Morecambe Bay is also distinctly visible. Pursuing the high road from Rydal to Grasmere, a sharp turn brings us in sight of Rydal Mere. At this 56 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. point is Glen Kothay (W. Ball, Esq.), and a wooden bridge crosses the river to the road above described. The lake is very small, being not more than half a mile long, by scarcely a third of a mile broad, but the scenery surrounding it is eminently beautiful It is fed by the stream from Grasmere Lake, and sends in its turn a feeder, called Kothay, to Windermere. The irregular heights of Loughrigg Fell rise above the south- west margin, whilst the road we are traversing is over- looked by the rocky front of Nab Scar. Near White Moss Quarry, now unworked, two ancient roads to Gras- mere cross the ridge which partitions that valley from Eydal, both of them shorter than the modern way. The lower of the two conducts past the Wishing- Gate, and rejoins the new road, which has been taken at a great expense along the lowest level, near Wordsworth's old house at Town End. The pedestrian will do wisely to pursue this road, as the views to be seen from it are of the most delightful kind. Grasmere Lake is somewhat larger every way than its sister mere. It has just one island placed in its centre. To reach the village of GRASMERE* a deviation from the Keswick road must be made at Town End, a few houses on the right, one of which Wordsworth occupied for eight years. Whilst residing here, many of the pieces for which he will be remem- bered, were composed; and, in 1802, he brought his bride to this very house, now partially hidden from travellers on the high road, by the intervention of some * Brown's " Prince of Wales and Lake Hotel," an excellent house has recently been established here, and occupies a convenient and beautiful situation on the margin of the lake. In the village, comfortable quarters are provided at the " Red Lion" and the " Swan," and private lodgings can be procured if required. 58 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. later built cottages. The " little nook of mountain ground," mentioned in his " Farewell," refers to this spot " That little cottage was Wordsworth's from the time of his marriage, and earlier, to the year 1808. Afterwards, for many a year, it was mine." (De Quincey, vol. ii.) The village, a sweet little place, stands amongst the flat meadows at the head of the lake, four miles from Ambleside. In the burying- ground, adjoining the parish church, are interred the remains of the Poet Wordsworth, who died on April 23, 1850. Grasmere is an excellent station for en- terprising tourists. Allan Bank (Thomas Dawson, Esq.), stands on a platform of ground behind the vil- lage. This house was for some time inhabited by Wordsworth, memorials of whom might be gathered throughout the whole vale, for here he spent many happy years, and there is scarcely a crag, a knoll, or a rill, which has not found a place in his " numerous verse."* The small hill called Butterlip How stands about half-way between the two inns, the Red Lion and the Swan. A walk to Red Bank, the point where the Langdale Road crosses the Loughrigg ridge, will dis- * It would be unpardonable to omit giving Gray's description of Grasmere in 1769, long before the natural beauty of the vale had been tutored and refined. The sketch was made in descending from Dunmail Eaise : " The bosom of the mountains, spreading here into a broad basin, dis- covers in the midst Grasmere Water; its margin is hollowed into small bays, with eminences, some of rock, some of soft turf, that half conceal and vary the figure of the little lake they command : from the shore, a low promontory pushes itself far into the water, and on it stands a white village, with a parish church rising in the midst of it ; hanging enclosures, com fields, and meadows green as an emerald, with their trees and hedges, and cattle, fill up the whole space from the edge of the water; and just opposite to you is a large farm-house, at the bottom of a steep smooth lawn, embosomed in old woods, which climb half-way up the mountain- sides, and discover above a broken line of crags that crown the scene. Not a single red tile, no staring gentleman's house, breaks in upon the repose of this unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its sweetest, most becoming sttire." 60 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Dunmail Kaise is seen to advantage dipping between Steel Fell and Seat SandaL Wordsworth's verses, which we take the liberty of transcribing, are worthy of so beautiful a scene. " Hope rules a land for ever green, All powers that own the bright eyed queen Are confident and gay ; Clouds at her bidding disappear Points she to aught ? the bliss draws near, And Fancy smooths the way. " Not such the land of wishes there Dwell fruitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, And thoughts with things at strife ; Yet how forlorn should ye depart, Ye superstitions of the heart, How poor were human life ! " When magic lore abjured its might, Ye did not forfeit one dear right, One tender claim abate ; Witness this symbol of your eway, Surviving near the public way, This rustic Wishing-Gate ! " Enquire not if the faery race Shed kindly influence on the place, Ere northward they retired If here a warrior left a spell, Panting for glory as he fell Or here a saint expired. " Enough that all around is fair, Composed with nature's finest care, And in her fondest love : Peace to embosom and content, To overawe the turbulent, The selfish to reprove. "Yea! even the stranger from afar, Keclining on the moss-grown bar, Unknowing and unknown. The infection of the ground partakes, Longing for his beloved who makes All happiness her own. WISHING GATE. 61 " Then why should conscious spirits fear The mystic stirrings that are nere, The ancient faith disclaim ? The local Genius ne'er befriends Desires whose course in folly ends, Whose just reward is shame. " Smile if thou wilt, but not to scorn, If some by ceaseless pains outworn, Here crave an easier lot ; If some have thirsted to renew A broken vow, or bind a true With firmer, holier knot. "And not in vain, when thoughts are cast, Upon the irrevocable past Some penitent sincere May for a worthier future sigh, While trickles from his downcast eye No unavailing tear. " The worldling pining to be freed From turmoil, who would turn or speed The current of his fate, Might stop before this favour'd scene, At nature's call, nor blush to lean Upon the Wishing-Gate. " The sage, who feels how blind, how weak Is man, though loth such help to seek, Yet passing here might pause, And yearn for insight to allay Misgiving, while the crimson day In quietness withdraws ; " Or when, the church-clock's knell profound To time's first step across the bound Of midnight makes reply ; Time pressing on with starry crest, To filial sleep upon the breast Of dread eternity ! " The singularly-shaped hill, called HELM CRAG forms a conspicuous feature in the scenery of Grasmere. Its apex exhibits so irregular an outline, as to have given rise to numberless whimsical comparisons. Gray com- 62 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. pares it to a gigantic building demolished, and the stones which composed it flung across in wild confusion. And Wordsworth speaks of " The ancient woman seated on Helm Crag." The same poet in another place, gives the old lady a companion "The Astrologer, sage Sidrophel, Where at his desk and book he sits, Puzzling on high his curious wits ; He whose domain is held in common With no one but the Ancient Woman, Cowering beside her rifted Cell, As if intent on magic spell ; Dread pair, that spite of wind and weather, Still sit upon Helm Crag together !" The Waggoner. Its summit, distant about two miles from the inn, com- mands an extensive prospect. The glen of EASDALE (which, with reference to Grasmere, has been described as " a chamber within a chamber, or rather a closet within a chamber a chapel within a cathedral a little private oratory within a chapel"), deserves a visit for its picturesque and secluded beauty. "The spot was made by Nature for herself." It lies in a recess between Helm Crag and Silver How, and the ascent, for it is of greater elevation than Gras- mere Vale, commands good retrospective views. The branch to the right, Far Easdale, is a stern and solitary highland glen. The left branch contains the cascade of Sour Milk Gill and the large Tarn of Easdale lying under lofty crags. Hence it is not difficult to ascend Codale Fell, which, being in the centre of the district, commands most striking views of the surrounding mountains : Serjeant Man, over Langdale, commands the eastern and southern valleys ; High Kaise, three EASDALE. 63 quarters of a mile north-west, overlooks Stonethwaite, and the course of the stream from angle Tarn to Bas- senthwaite "Water. Eight Lakes, and at least eight Tarns, may be seen from these points. The excursion may he continued to Langdale Pikes. A fatal accident which befell two of the in- habitants of Easdale upwards of forty years ago, still lives in the memory of the dalelanders. George and Sarah Green, poor and hard-working peasants, in re- turning home, late on a winter evening, from Langdale, Avere lost in a snow-storm, which at the same time lock- ed up six children within their Easdale cottage for several days. During that period, the eldest child, a girl only nine years old, exhibited unusual care and thoughtfulness, in providing for the wants of the orphan household. At length, making her escape, she alarmed the neighbourhood ; but it was not until after a search of three days that the bodies of her parents were dis- covered on the liills, lying not far from each other. (See De Quincey, vol. ii.) Excursions may be made from Grasmere into Lang- dale and Patterdale. The road to the former valley divides into two, soon after crossing Eed Bank. The road on the right, which passes High Close, must be taken, if the object in view be to visit Great Langdale and the Pikes ; but in order to enter Little Langdale, either Skelwith or Elterwater Bridges, each three miles from Grasmere, must be crossed. The chart of Win- dermere will explain these directions. A mountain path, seven miles in length, conducting past Grisedale Tarn, and through Grisedale glen to Ullswater, quits the Keswick road at a bridge a mile above the Swan Inn. Finally, amongst the excursions from Grasmere, those to the summit of Helvellyn and Fairfield may be mentioned. THE LANGDALES. An excursion frequently made by the temporary resi- dents in Ambleside, is that through the Langdales. If the object of the tourist is merely to view Great Lang- dale (the finer of the two vales) with Dungeon Gill Force, and to ascend the Pikes, he will traverse a road perfectly practicable for carriages; but if he desire to see something more of the country, by visiting Skelwith and Colwith Forces, Little Langdale and Blea Tarns, it would be better to go on horseback, in a car, or on foot. This circuit, which we shall describe, is about eighteen miles in length. With the intention, then, of visiting the two Langdales in succession, the tourist will leave Ambleside by the road to Clappersgate, winding under the craggy heights of Loughrigg Fell, on the banks of the Brathay, near the source of which he will be ere long. A newly built chapel will be observed in a charming situation on the south bank of the river. "Sweeter stream-scenery," says Wilson, " with richer fore and loftier back ground is nowhere to be seen within the four seas." A few hundred yards above Skelwith Bridge (three miles from Ambleside) the stream is precipitated over a ledge of rock, making a fall twenty feet in height. The cascade is not so remarkable in itself, as for the magnificent scenery around it; Langdale Pikes have a peculiarly striking appearance. By this bridge the traveller is conducted into Lancashire, in which county the road does not continue for more than a mile before it re-enters West- moreland at Colwith Bridge. A short distance above the bridge, the stream, issuing from a tarn farther up, makes a fine cascade seventy feet high, called Colwith THE LANGDALE8. 65 Force, in a dell close to the road. A stupendous mountain, called Weatherlamb, occupies a conspicuous position in a chain of lofty hills on the south-west. Proceeding onwards, Little Langdale Tarn becomes visible on the left on the right is Lingmoor, a hill which serves as a partition between the two Langdales. Shortly after passing the tarn, the road to be taken bends to the right, and ascending some distance between the mountains, a solitary pool of water, named Blea Tarn, is perceived in the bottom of an elevated depres- sion. The scene here presented is thus described in the " Excursion ;" the description, however, supposes the spectator to look down upon it, not from the road, but from one of the hill-sides, and the fir plantations did not then exist : " Beneath our feet, a little lowly vale, A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high Among the mountains ; even as if the spot Had been from eldest time, by wish of theirs, So placed to be shut out from all the world ! Urn-like it was in shape, deep as an urn ; With rocks encompass'd save that to the south Was one small opening where a heath-clad ridge Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close ; A quiet treeless nook, with two green fields, A liquid pool that glitter'd in the sun, And one bare dwelling one abode, no more ! It seem'd the home of poverty and toil, Though not of want. The little fields made green By husbandry of many thrifty years, Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland house There crows the cock single in his domain : The small birds find in spring no thicket there To shroud them ; only from the neighbouring vales The cuckoo, straggling up to the hill tops, Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder place." Those magnificent objects, - " the two huge peaks That from some other vale peer into this," P 66 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. are the two Pikes of Langdale. The highest one is named Harrison Stickle, which is 2401, and the lower, Pike o' Stickle, which is 2323 feet in height. Having passed the tarn, the road winds down a steep descent into the head of Great Langdale, that part of it called Mickleden (Dungeon Gill Hotel), through which is the road over the Stake into Borrowdale, "being right before the eye. From the top of the de- scent, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags have a grand appear- ance. Millbeck (Dungeon Gill New Hotel), at the foot of the Pikes, is soon reached. At either of the hotels guides to Dungeon Gill Force, and to the summit of the Pikes, can be obtained. The former is a fall of water, formed by a stream which runs down a fissure in the face of the first great buttress of the Pikes, twenty minutes' climb from the vale. A natural arch has been made by two large stones having rolled from a higher part of the mountain, and got wedged in between the cheeks of rock. Over the Bridge thus formed, ladies, as well as Wordsworth's " Idle Shepherd Boy," have had the intrepidity to pass,* notwithstand- * " There is a spot which you may see If ever you to Langdale go. Into a chasm, a mighty block Hath fall'n, and made a bridge of rock : The gulf is deep below, And in a basin, black and small, Receives a lofty Waterfall." WOBDSWOKTH. " In Langdale Pike and Witch's Lair, And Dungeon Ghyll so foully rent, With rope of rocks and bells of air Three sinful sexton's ghosts are pent, Who all give back one after t'other, The death-note to their living brother ; And oft, too, by their knell offended, Just as their one ! two ! three ! is ended, The devil mocks their doleful tale With a merry peal from Borrodaile." COLERIDGE. THE LANGDALES. 67 ing a black gulf on either hand is apt to unsteady the nerves. By a little scrambling over the rocks in the bed of the stream, the visitor may stand in the last and finest chamber, underneath the arch and in front of the waterfall. The stream from Stickle Tarn makes several pretty leaps in descending the hill side. Two roads traverse the valley of Great Langdale, one of which keeps under the hills on the left, the other takes the middle of the vale ; the former is to be preferred by those unencumbered with carriages. One mile and a half from Millbeck, is the little chapel of Langdale, whence a road, three miles in length, strikes up the hill side, and crossing Eed Bank, descends into Gras- mere. In the vicinity of the Chapel, is Thrang Slate Quarry, a stupendous excavation. Continuing our march direct to Ambleside, the large sheet of water which now comes into sight, is Elterwater Tarn, and at the head of it stands Elterwater HalL The stream feeding the tarn is crossed by a bridge, a short distance above the tarn. Near the bridge are the works of the Elterwater Gunpowder Company. A little further, in a recess on the flank of Loughrigg Fell, is Loughrigg Tarn, a lovely spot, on which Wilson has composed some beautiful lines. Pedestrians occasionally prefer to reach Keswick by the STAKE PASS instead of by the high road. Millbeck under Langdale Pikes, is seven miles and a half from Ambleside ; thence through Mickleden, Bowfell being on the left, to the top of the Stake, is four miles and a half; and Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, is five miles further. The whole distance from Ambleside to Keswick by this route is twenty-three miles. It may not be amiss to observe that there is no public-house between the one near Langdale Chapel and Eosthwaite, and the pass should not be attempted except in the finest weather. 68 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. MILLBECK TO THE SUMMIT OF THE PIKES. The path pursues a peat road leading to Stickle Tarn, well known to the angler for its fine trout, which lies under a lofty ridge of rock called Pavey Ark. This tarn must be left on the right, and a streamlet which runs down the hill side taken as a guide. The path becomes at this part exceedingly steep, but a little patient exertion will soon place the tourist on the summit of Harrison Stickle. Though of considerably inferior elevation to other mountains in the district, the views from this spot are extremely fine. Looking north-eastward, Helvellyn, Seat Sandal,* and Fairfield bound the prospect ; and, in the north-west and north, Skiddaw and Saddleback are seen in the distance. Stickle Tarn is immediately below the eye, guarded by the frowning heights of Pavey Ark. In the south- east are the hills around the valley of Ambleside, beyond, those at the head of Troutbeck and Kentinere. In turning to the south, the eye is attracted by the valley of Great Langdale, containing Elterwater and Loughrigg Tarn, and terminated by Windermere, with Curwen's Isle and the other islands diversifying its smooth surface. Loughrigg Fell conceals a portion of the head of the lake as well as the town of Ambleside. Underbarrow Scar, near Kendal, is seen over Bowness. Esthwaite Water is seen on the south-south-east, and close at hand, towards the right, is the bluff summit of Wetherlam End. A small part of the sea is embraced in the view in this direction. Through an opening, having on the left Pike o' Bliscoe, and on the right * " That cloud-wooing hill, Seat Sandal, a fond suitor of the clouds." Wordmorth. WANSFELL PIKE. ' 69 Crinkle Crags, Gatescale is presented in the north. The Old Man and the Great Carrs shut in the prospect on the south-west. In the west is Great End, a little further Great Gable, whilst Scawfell Pike and Scawfell overtop Bowfell. Pike o' Stickle has the advantage of commanding a good view of Bassenthwaite Mere and Skiddaw. In other respects the highest peak has a finer range of prospect. WANSFELL PIKE. The ascent of this mountain, from either Amble- side or Low Wood Hotel, will afford the pedestrian un agreeable morning's ramble. Its elevation of 1581 feet, whilst sufficient to command extensive prospects, renders it accessible with a moderate amount of exertion. Its geological composition is slate, of little value in point of commercial utility, with a thin band of lime- stone running across its southern side, of a kind extremely similar to that termed Ludlow limestone. The views on the north and east are contracted, on account of the proximity of loftier elevations, but in other directions they are far stretching. The valley of Troutbeck runs up on the east, and the mountainous range on its further side consists of Applethwaite Common, the Yoke, Hill Bell, Frossick, and the near extremity of High Street. A depression, called Thres- thwaite Mouth, separates the last-named hill from Codale Moor. Directly north is the pass of Kirkstone with its little inn looking like a single block of stone. Place Fell, on the margin of Ulleswater, is seen through the dip. The hill Kirkstone with its screes guards the left of the pass, and slopes with a rounded ridge into the valley of Ambleside. Another ridge rises beyond from that valley, at the foot of which stands Eydal 70 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Hall in its park of fine wood. This ridge is called Scandale, the upper part of Rydal vale being enclosed between it and Rydal Fell, of which the highest summit is Fairfield, and the lower extremity Nab Scar, a noble piece of rock overlooking Rydalmere. Further on, Grasmere is perceived, backed by the Easdale Fells. Loughrigg Fell is to the left of Rydalmere, whilst Langdale Pikes, never to be mistaken, rise beyond. Great End peeps over a chain of hills from another valley, and is succeeded by Bow Fell, a broad topped mountain with a slope towards the north. A glimpse of Scawfell Pike is then caught. A dancette (to use a heraldic term) of three angular peaks, points out Crinkle Crags. A deep depression indicates the pass over Wrynose, and then the bold front of Wetherlam stands forward. Coniston Old Man is the highest summit in this quarter. Turning the attention to objects nearer us, the vale of Ambleside, immediately beneath the spectator's eye, is extremely beautiful, with its rich variety of wood and water. The head of Windermere is concealed by a projection of the moun- tain, but the indentation called Pull Wyke is visible. From a point a little below the summit, the lake expands with all its charms, diversified with islands, bays, and promontories, and set in a rich frame of undulating ground. Gummer's How is on the left bank near the foot, and the sands of Morecambe Bay close in the southern horizon. Blelham Tarn, a piece of water, is seen on the other side of the lake, and the village of Hawkshead not far off to the left. If the stranger wishes to prolong his ramble amongst the hills, he may make for the pass of Kirkstone, and approach Ullswater ; or descend into Troutbeck, climb High Street, and procure night quarters at the secluded inn on Mardale Green, near Hawes Water. 71 AMBLESIDE TO CONISTON. HAWKSHEAD [Inn: Eed Lion], an ancient market town of inconsiderable size, stands at the head of the vale of Esthwaite in Lancashire, five miles from Amble- side, and the like distance from Bowness. The Church, dedicated to St. Michael, occupies an elevation in the town, which commands a good prospect of the adjacent country. The great benefactor of Hawkshead was Edwyne Sandys,* Archbishop of York in the reign of Elizabeth, who made additions to the church, and founded the Grammar School in 1585. The church contains a monument to the Archbishop's father and mother. In the church there also lies interred the accomplished Miss Elizabeth Smith, whose memoir has been published. A marble tablet has been erected to her memory. Dr. Wordsworth and his brother the late Poet Laureate, were both educated at the school ; and fondly does the latter cherish remem- brances of his school days, as the frequent recurrence to them in his poems testifies. The most remarkable object in the neighbourhood is the little lake of Esth- waite, a quiet cheerful piece of water, about two miles in length, and a third of a mile in breadth at its broadest part. Were it not for a peninsula, which stretches into its waters from the west shore, the * It is probable that Hawkshead was the birth-place of this eminent prelate, who was a member of an ancient family, still seated in the neigh- bourhood. He was born in 1519, and after having suffered an imprisonment in the Tower, and the misery of an exile, became successively Bishop of Worcester and London, before he adorned the Archiepiscopal See of York. He was one of the Translators of the Bible, and the friend of Cranmer, Jewel, and Hooker. His son, George Sandys (called by Dryden "the ingenious and learned Sandys, the best versifier of the former age "), besides being a poet, travelled in the East, and wrote an account of his wanderings. 72 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. regularity of the margin might subject it to the charge of monotony, for an absence of all striking scenery is characteristic of the lake as well as of the vale. Nevertheless, many pretty houses, scattered up and down, give an enlivening effect to the scenery ; and the mountain-summits, which peer into this from other valleys, serve to restore the sense of an Alpine region. A floating-island, twenty-four yards by five, occupies a pond near the head of the lake. When the wind is high, this piece of ground, with its alders and willows, is very visibly thrown into motion. The superfluous water of the lake is carried off by a stream called the Cunsey into Windermere. Esthwaite-water is the scene of Wordsworth's fine skating description. Perhaps the best station for viewing the lake is from a point on the west margin, and towards its foot, about two hundred yards on the Ulverston road, after its divergence from the road to Windermere. A drive round the lake will form a pleasant extension of the excursion. Quitting Hawkshead for Coniston, an old farm- house, with a mullioned window, will be seen near a brook, at the angle where the Coniston and Ambleside roads diverge. Here, in former days, one or two monks, from Furness Abbey, resided, in order to administer spiritual assistance to the neighbourhood, and to perform divine service in the church. It was here, also, that the Abbots of Furness held their manor courts. From the acclivity which has to be ascended, there is a good view to the right of hills which princi- pally cluster round the valley of Ambleside. The group begins with Hill Bell ; the pointed mountain in front is Wansfell whilst through the pass of Kirk- stone, you catch a glimpse of Place Fell on Ulleswater. Kirkstone presents a fine outline, succeeded by Scandal 74 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Fell, Fairfield, and Rydal Fell. Loughrigg, which stands in the foreground, shrinks to a mole-hill when brought into comparison with his lofty "brethren. From Torver the road lies across elevated ground, bare both of vegetation and interest, until we begin to descend into Coniston vale, which opens out to the eye, with its lake and verdure, in a manner the most charming. The Man Mountain is right in front, and the deep coom, where the mines are situate, is conspi- cuous. The bold outline, with the alternate prominences and depressions, is exceedingly fine, and attracts the attention almost to the exclusion of everything else. The road winds through the grounds' attached to Waterhead House (Marshall, Esq.) Shortly afterwards, CONISTON LAKE, sometimes called Thurston water, appears. "Waterhead Hotel, beautifully situated near the head of the lake, eight miles from Ambleside, furnishes comfortable quarters, and is a convenient place whence to detour through the neighbourhood, which contains much worth seeing. This lake is about six and a half miles long, its greatest breadth not exceeding one mile. The lake contains two islands, the uppermost, called Knott's Island, after its pro- prietor, but more generally Fir Island, being covered with Scotch firs ; the lower Peel Island, or from its shape, Gridiron. Char, trout, and perch are found in the lake. Along the east side are the beautifully wooded grounds of Tent Lodge, Bank Ground, Coniston Bank, Brantwood, and Water Park. The station, from which the outline view of this lake is taken, is a little beyond Tent Lodge, on the Ulverston road. The ascent of the Old Man may be made from Coniston more commodiously than from any other place.* * The valley of the DUDDON can be approached by the Walna Scar road. Newfleld in Seathwaite being six or seven miles from Coniston. The 75 CONISTON OLD MAN. This mountain stands at the north-west angle of Coniston Lake, to the views from the head and eastern shore of which it adds a grandeur exceedingly impos- ing. Its boldest aspect, however, is presented when viewed from the neighbourhood of Torver. It forms the highest peak of the Coniston Fell range, reaching an altitude of 2633 feet. It is composed of a fine roofing slate, for the excavation of which material there are several large quarries, now in a great measure unworked. The slates are carried down the lake by means of boats on their way to the port of Ulverston. Granite shows itself upon one part of the mountain, whilst round its sides and base, sienitic boulders are scattered in great numbers, having been apparently sub- jected to considerable attrition. A narrow bed of transi- tion limestone, which has excited the attention of geolo- gists, strikes across the country at the foot of the Old Man. This mountain is rich in metal, there being several veins of valuable copper intersecting its eastern side. The ore is obtained in the state of pyrites from the mine, which is situate in a large cove about half a mile up the hill, and extends into its bowels for up- wards of half a mile in a horizontal direction, the vertical shafts penetrating two hundred yards in depth. The mining in some parts is carried on beneath Levers Water. The works are extensive, affording employ- ment to a large number of persons, so that at some carriage visitor, however, must make a longer round to reach this secluded vale, namely, by Torver, and thence either by Broughton Mills to Newfield, or by the village of Broughton and through Donnerdale. The first of these routes is the shortest, but then the lower portion of the vale is not seen. 76 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. periods 2000 per month are expended in wages. Mining operations were carried on here at an early period, anterior to the invention, or at all events to the general use of gunpowder ; for there are appearances still existing which show that recourse had been had to fire for the purpose of softening the rocks where the ore lies embedded. The mines are now worked by a Company, to whom they are leased by Lady le Fleming of Eydal Hall, lady of the manor, and proprietor both of the slate quarries and the mines. The plan usually taken for ascending the mountain from Church Coniston, the village at its foot, is to pur- sue the road leading to the copper-mines, alongside the stream flowing from Levers Water, the banks of which are picturesquely shaded by self sown trees. A foot bridge, thrown across the brook about half a mile from the village, must be crossed, and the path then pur- sues a western direction. The summit of the hill now comes into view, and just before reaching the tirst copper-works let the tourist turn to the left, then afterwards again to the left from the road leading to the upper copper-works ; then crossing some shallow streams flowing from the works let him pursue the steep stony cart-track which he will see before him towards the slate quarries. On reaching another cart- road above he must turn to the right, continuing to ascend. Soon after passing the slate quarries he should follow a disused cart-track above one side of Low Water tarn until he reaches an old slate quarry on the precipitous mountain side before him. (There is a very fine echo above Low Water tarn.) Here will be seen, on the left, the path by which to ascend to the summit. The views to be obtained from this mountain to- wards the south and west are open and extensive, in consequence of its position upon the outskirts of the CONISTON OLD MAN. 77 hilly country. In other directions the views are cir- cumscribed by the bulky masses of the neighbouring mountains, but the intricacy of outline and grandeur of form which these latter exhibit are highly gratifying to the eye. Directly north, Skiddaw is seen over a breast of the mountain on which the spectator stands ; more to the right are Blencathara and Helvellyn the latter a prominent object, to be at once recognized from, its being in a line with Low Water. Langdale Pikes take up their position in the nearer foreground, and Stickle Tarn may be descried upon them, lying at the foot of the frowning rocks called Pavey Ark. Beyond Low Water the lower extremity of Levers Water is per- ceived and beyond this rises the massy front of Wether- lam and Tilberthwaite Fell Turning once more to the mountain chain which bounds the horizon, a depression marks the pass from Grasmere to Ulleswater through Grisedale. Fairfield, the highest point amidst a tem- pestuous sea of mountains, stands on the right, suc- ceeded by Kirkstone and its pass, High Street and Hill Bell, in front of which last-named mountain Wansfell is beheld, with Ambleside at its foot. The eye having been gradually inclined to the east, now perceives in that direction about one half of Windermere stretching away among the hills. Wansfell Holm, Low Wood,. Calgarth, and Rayrigg, white dots on the east margin of the lake, are easily distinguished the last just where the high ground shuts out from view the lower part of the mere. In the valley immediately below, the whole length of Coniston Lake extends towards the sea Mr. Marshall's summer residence is a pretty object amongst the woods at its head. Not far distant, Tent Lodge, once the residence of Miss Elizabeth Smith, and other villas, are seen with wonderful distinctness upon the eastern borders, whilst just beneath the eye are the 78 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. church and village of Coniston. On the nearer margin, Coniston Hall is to be discerned amongst the trees. It is an ancient building, once the seat of the Flemings. Between the two lakes of Windermere and Coniston, there is a view of Esthwaite Water, and the village of Sawrey. A short distance to the south of Sawrey another glimpse of Windermere is caught, eastward of which moor appears to rise beyond moor, far as the eye can reach. A little to the south Ingleborough, and that part of the Pennine chain which divides Yorkshire from Lancashire, bound the horizon. A fine open view spreads from the base of the Old Man towards the south- east and south, embracing Morecambe Bay, the estuaries of the Kent, Leven, and Duddon, the promontories of Furness and Cartmel, the Isle of Walney, and a long line of coast stretching onwards to the mouths of the Wyre and Bibble. Over the mouth of the Leven, Lancaster Castle is visible ; more to the south is the new town of Fleetwood, whilst the smoke rising here and there marks the site of towns which are themselves concealed by interposing ground, viz., Ulverston, Egre- mont, Whithaven, etc. When the atmosphere is in its highest state of transparency, Snowdon, and the moun- tains of the Principality, can be descried over the mouth of the Duddon ; and a little to the west of the Isle of Walney, Black Combe, with which Stoneside is connect- ed, raises its gloomy summit in the south-west. A little to the west of Stoneside, Devock Water is seen, and close at hand, with his face to the west, the spec- tator beholds Gateswater, a gloomy tarn at the foot of the lofty and serrated pile of rock called Dow Crags. Behind these, and visible from a point not far distant from the Man, Seathwaite Tarn, a principal feeder of " cerulean Duddon," lies embedded. Beyond the high- est summit of the same rocks, the Irish Sea, contain- FURNESS ABBEY EXCURSION. 79 ing the Isle of Man, forms the horizon. To the right of Dow Crags Birk Fell points conically upwards, and the Screes, hiding Wast Water, present their smoothest side. Between the northern extremity of the Screes and Scawfell, the Pillar and Haycock show themselves. The heights of Scawfell scarred with tremendous ravines, succeeded by Great End, Great Gable, and Bowfell, bring us to the point from which we originally started. The descent may be made into Tilberthwaite ; or to Cockley Beck in Seathwaite ; from which place the tourist may either proceed to trace the windings of the Duddon, celebrated by Wordsworth in a series of son- nets, or cross Hard Knot by a mountain road which leads into Eskdale. See Eoute V. of the ITINERARY. FUKNESfl ABBEY EXCUESION. The line of railway between Lancaster and Ulver- ston affords the readiest means of visiting Furness.* The branch line strikes off at Carnforth Junction, the third station north of Lancaster, and the route is partly oversand and partly at the feet of the hills which bound Morecambe Bay on the north. The stations of Grange and Silverdale are well situated as points from which to examine the many beauties of that charming district. The line itself is a substitute for the dangerous oversands route from Best Bank, the attractive scenery of which it fortunately retains. " I must not omit to tell you," says Mrs. Hemans in one of her letters, " that * Prom Ambleside the tourist may visit Furness, and return the same day, by taking the first steamer in the morning, down the lake, to Newby Bridge, from which, in the summer, there is a coach to Ulverston, where he will get a train to Furness ; or he may go by coach from Ambleside to Con- iston, and thence by train. Coniston and Broughtou are now connected by railway. 80 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Mr. Wordsworth not only admired our exploit in cross- ing the Ulverston Sands as a deed of 'derring-do,' but as a decided proof of taste ; the lake scenery, he says, is never seen to such advantage as after the passage of what he calls its majestic-barrier." Tourists from the south can now enter the Lake District in this manner by railway as far as Coniston, and return by the Winder- mere line. In the summer months, steamers regularly ply from Poulton and Fleetwood, across Morcambe Bay, to Piel-pier, in connexion with the Ulverston railway. ULVERSTON, [Inns Sun ; BraddylPs Anns ; Queen's Hotel ; and King's Arms. Coaches daily to Newby Bridge in the summer.] A market town and port, contains about 7500 inhabi- tants, and is situated on the Whitehaven and Furness Junction Eailway in that division of Lancashire termed " Lonsdale North of the Sands," and is supposed to derive its name from Ulph, a Saxon Lord. It is about a mile from the estuary of the Leven, with which it is connected by a canal, constructed in 1795, and capable of floating vessels of 200 tons. This canal has been of signal advantage to the town, as large quantities of slate and iron ore, with which the neighbourhood abounds, are thereby exported. The appearance of the town is neat, the greater part of the houses being of modern erection. The parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, received considerable additions in 1804, and is now being enlarged and beautined ; but a tower and Norman doorway of the old structure still remain. It contains an altar-piece after Sir Joshua Eeynolds, and a window of stained glass, representing compositions after Eubens, both of which were given ULVERSTON. 8 1 by T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq., the late Lay Sector, besides several memorial windows. From the sloping ground behind the old church a delightful view of the bay and neighbouring country may be obtained. A new and elegant church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was erected at the upper end of the town in 1832, by pub- lic subscription, aided by a grant from the Parliamen- tary Commissioners. The town contains a Theatre and Assembly Room ; and amongst other buildings of recent erection are the Victoria Concert Hall and the Temperance Hall. FDRNESS DISTRICT. The Duke of Buccleuch is Lord of the Liberty of Furness, of which the Manor of Ulverston forms part. The tract of land, which from time immemorial has borne the name of Furness, is that portion of the county of Lancaster which lies between the river Duddon on the west, and Windermere, with the river issuing from its foot, on the east. The name is found, for the first time, in the foundation-charter of Furness Abbey, bear- ing date 1126, where it is Latinized into "Fudernesia," which word points out the derivation of the present designation, as the further ness, or promontory. This district was, like every other corner of our island, over- run by the Romans, many traces of whose dominion have been, and will continue to be, from time to time, discovered. By the grant of Earl Stephen, the Liberty of Furness passed to Furness Abbey. Having lapsed to the Crown at the Dissolution, it was given by Charles IL to Monk, Duke of Albemarle, as a reward for that nobleman's services at the Restoration, from whom it has descended to its present possessor. One of the privileges his Grace Buccleuch enjoys with this posses- sion is, the exclusive right of executing all writs, pro- cesses, and precepts of her Majesty within its limits. G 82 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. At one period, the Fells of Furness formed the boundary between England and Scotland ; and, in 1 138, a fearful descent from the latter country made a desert of the whole peninsula. WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM ULVERSTON. At SWART-MOOR, one mile to the south-west of Ulverston, the Friends or Quakers have a meeting- house, built under the direction of the venerable George Fox. It was the first place of religious worship erected for the use of that community. Over the door are the initials of the founders, "Ex dono G. F. 1688." Swart- moor Hall, once the residence of Judge Fell, whose wife, and many of the family, in the year 1652, adopted the principles of the Quakers, is now a farm-house, and in a dilapidated condition. In 1669, eleven years after the death of the judge, his widow married George Fox, whom she survived about eleven years. The proto- quaker's bed-room and study are still shewn to the in- quisitive traveller. The Hall stands on the borders of Swart or Swarth Moor (now enclosed), on which " the German Baron, bold Martin Swart,"* mustered the forces of Lambert Simnel in 1486. This general seems to have had great celebrity at one time, as we may infer from the numerous ballads that sang of " Martin Swart and all his merry men," some scraps- of which have come down to us. CONISHEAD PRIORY, the seat of H. W. Askew, Esq., has been termed, from its beautiful situation, "the Paradise of Furne.ss." It is situated two miles south of Ulverston, near the sea-shore, in an extensive and well- wooded park, which is intersected, like most old parks, with public roads, forming in this case, a * Ford's " Perkin Warbeck " 1634. WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM ULVERSTON. 83 favourite promenade for the inhabitants of the town. The mansion was built by Colonel Braddyll,* at a cost of about 90,000, in a style of magnificence of which there are few examples in the north of England. The ancient Priory, which occupied the same site, was founded by William de Lancaster, the fourth in descent from Ivo de Taillebois, first Baron of Kendal, in the reign of Henry II. Upon the dissolution of the re- ligious houses, it fell into the hands of Henry VIII., whose cupidity was excited by the great extent of its landed possessions. The architecture is Elizabethan ; the principal entrance is on the north. The hall, forty feet high and sixty feet in length, is lighted by win- dows of richly stained glass. The cloisters and arched passages are 177 feet long. Formerly the Priory, in- cluding the deer-park, was upwards of 1300 acres. Mr. Gale, a cousin of Colonel Braddyll's, purchased the deer-park, and Bardsley Hall, which he has had rebuilt. None of the pictures formerly belonging to Colonel Braddyll are in the possession of Mr. Askew. There are no remains of the ancient Priory, but under the lawn, to the south of the present structure, the founda- tions of the church have been traced, and the position of the high altar ascertained. HOLKER HALL, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire, is placed in a noble park on the opposite shore of the Leven, about five miles to the east of Ulverston. Extensive improvements have been lately making on both the mansion and grounds, and the gardens are now amongst the finest in the north. The noble owner has a fine collection of pictures, comprising works from the * The family of Braddyll is of great antiquity and respectability ; in a note to the " Bridal of Triermain," Sir Walter Scott informs us that it repre- sented the ancient families of Vaux of Triermain, Caterlen, and Torcrossock, and their collateral alliances, the ancient and noble families of Delamore and Leybourne. 84 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. pencils of Claude, Wouvermanns, Eubens, etc., and several excellent paintings by Komney.* Near this is the village of CARTMELL, in which is a church, of unusual size, dedicated to the Virgin. It was the church of a Priory, formerly established here. For the finish of its screen-work, the antiquity of some of the monuments, and the beauty of its architecture, it deserves the tourist's particular attention. The length of the body is 157 feet, and of the transepts, 110 feet : the walls are 57 feet high. The Priory was founded in 1188 by William Mareschall, Earl of Pem- broke, the same baron who is brought before us in Shakespeare's " King John," and of whom there is a recumbent effigy in the round tower of the Temple Church, London. A short distance from the village is a medicinal spring, called Holywell. ULVERSTON IRON MINES. A visit to an iron-mine in this district will be in- teresting to geologists. Tyndal-moor mine, 3 miles S.W. of Ulverston, is the nearest. The visitor should be provided with a suit of old clothes, as the iron stains are almost indelible. The ore is smelted at Barrow and St. Helens. * This distinguished painter, a contemporary and rival of Sir Joshua Reynolds, was born at Dalton, in Purness. He was, in Flaxman's opinion, the first of our painters in poetic dignity of conception. Many of his finest pictures are scattered over this part of the country. There is a good col- lection at Whitestock Hall, the residence of his daughter-in-law, near Hawkshead. Some of his paintings are amongst the master-pieces of the English School for instance, his Infant Shakespeare, attended by Tragedy and Comedy; Sir Isaac Newton exhibiting the Prism to his Servants; and Milton dictating to his Daughters. Amongst his best portraits were those of Bishop Watson, Dr. Paley, Lord Thurlow, Wortley Montague, and William Cowper. The poet, in a complimentary sonnet, affirms, that Romney had the skill to stamp on canvas not merely the outward form and semblance, but " The mind's impression, too, on every face, With strokes that time ought never to erase." FURNESS ABBEY. 85 FUENESS ABBEY. [Inn Furness Abbey Hotel, adjoining the Railway Station.] 7 miles from Ulverston, 10 from Broughton, 45 from Whitehaven. " I do love these ancient ruins ; We never tread upon them, but we set Our foot upon some reverend history ; And questionless here in this open court, Which now lies naked to the injuries Of stormy weather, some lie interr'd, Loved the church so well, and gave so largely to't They thought it should have canopied their bones Till doomsday but all things have their end." WEBSTER (the Dramatist). In a narrow delVwatered by a clear stramlet, and at a distance of seven miles to the south-west of Ulverston, stand the beautiful remains of FURNESS ABBEY, now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. This establish- ment was a filiation from the monastery of Savigny, in Normandy, which belonged to the order of Benedictines. The monks, on their first arrival in England, seated themselves on the banks of the Eibble, near Preston, at a place called Tulketh, where the remains of the edifice they inhabited are said to be yet existing. Three years afterwards, that is, in 1127, they removed to this abbey, founded by Stephen, Earl of Montaigne and Boulogne, subsequently King of England, who would never have assumed the English crown if his actions had always been governed by motives similar to those with which he countenanced the monks of Furness. " Considering every day the uncertainty of life " (thus runs the preamble of the foundation-charter, subscribed by the hand of Earl Stephen, and " confirmed by the sign of the holy cross"), " that the roses and 86 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. flowers of kings, emperors, and dukes, and the crowns and palms of the great, wither and decay, and that all things, with an uninterrupted course, tend to dissolu- tion and death, I, therefore," and so forth. The brethren afterwards entered and took the dress of the Cistercian order, changing grey for white habili- ments. This order, sometimes called, in honour of its founders, the Bernardino, became extremely numerous, so that, if their own historians are to be believed, they had 500 abbeys within 50 years of its institution, and altogether upwards of 6000 houses. One of their rules was not to permit another monastery, even of their own class, to be erected within a specified distance. Their houses were all built in secluded situations, and dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. Waverley in Surrey was the first in England of the Cistercian rule, although that honour for a while was claimed by Furness. This Abbey was a mother monastery, and had under her nine houses (four of them being filiations from her), the principal of which were Calder Abbey, described in this volume, Rushin Abbey in the Isle of Man, Fermor and Inch in Ireland, and Byland, near Malton, in Yorkshire. The spot selected in the present instance was admirably fitted for the retirement of monastic life. The dell is narrow, the situation one of extreme seques- tration, and the inmates of the sacred edifice might thus consider themselves shut out by a double wall from the turmoils and distractions of the world. The ruins amply attest the former magnificence of the buildings, which were once so extensive as nearly to fill the width of the glen. The length of the church is 287 feet, the nave is 70 feet broad, and the walls in some places 54 feet high, and 5 feet thick. The walls of the church, and those of the chapter-house, the refectorium, and the school-house, are still in great part remaining, and 88 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. exhibit fine specimens of Gothic architecture; the chapter-house, 60 feet by 45, has been a sumptuous apartment; the roof, of fret-work, was supported by six channelled pillars, and the windows are yet remark- able for their rich border tracery. The great east window, the four seats near it, adorned with canopies and other ornaments, the piscina, and four nameless statues found in the ruins, are particularly worthy of notice. Unfortunately no mullions remain in the windows, and of the large arches the only perfect ones are the eastern arch under the central tower, and one at the north end of the transept. The observing visitor will notice that the doorway into the north transept, and five doorways out of the cloister court, have round arches indicating an earlier date than the rest of the structure; whilst that part of the building, termed by the describer from whom we are about to quote, a school-house, but which was perhaps a chapel, is characterized by arches with obtusely-angular heads, such as no other portion of the Abbey exhibits. The plan will assist the stranger in his ramble over the ruins. " The northern gate of the abbey," says Mrs. Rad- cliffe, " is a beautiful Gothic arch, one side of which is luxuriantly festooned with nightshade. A thick grove of plane-trees, with some oak and beech, overshadow it on the right, and lead the eye onward to the ruins of the abbey, seen through this dark arch in remote per- spective, over rough but verdant ground. The princi- pal features are the great northern window, and part of the eastern choir, with glimpses of shattered arches and stately walls beyond, caught between the gaping case- ments. On the left, the bank of the glen is broken into knolls, capped with oaks, which, in some places, spread downwards to a stream that winds round the ruin, and darken it with their rich foliage. Through PLA.N OF FURNESS ABBEY. Oven "-- SOUTH *---> \fuest MB j ffiX? " tfx" c^** Chapel I en nO -in fX XV\'YXV>rX ^y^\R^fectonA L5a. v v ^ v b$$$$$$&& Cloisters L gu adz-angle ij- -i s iii !' ** ii* i> ii! i N ! 2 r Ik E dj t,AiC= " ?>!>'"' Xl|_ri ^VX^x^ 3 ^Hj-uri 8 _J_ ^ ^^= ','. ( fe i! ( 5|L = : I J fc LH 1 " .' ' ' '-^ Jre^S i> a a Nave rt-l-'-^--'--'-^- r' s vl^ 3 4 Hr JJg NORTH WS \ u - \- Hotcl There is a chapel in each part of the transept. The high altar was before the east win- clow. The piscina (where the officiating priests washed their hands) and the sedilia (where they sat at intervals during the service) are in the south wall of the choir. The princi- pal entrance to the church was in the north transept. 90 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. this gate is the entrance to the immediate precincts of the abbey, an area said to contain sixty-five acres, now called the deer park. It is enclosed by a stone wall on which the remains of many small buildings, and the faint vestiges of others, still appear. We made our way among the pathless fern and grass to the north end of the church, now, like every other part of the abbey, entirely roofless, but shewing the lofty arch of the great window, where, instead of the painted glass that once enriched it, are now tufted plants and wreaths of nightshade. Below is the principal door of the church, bending into a deep round arch, which, retiring circle within circle, is rich and beautiful; the remains of a winding staircase are visible within the wall on its left side. Xear this northern end of the edifice is seen one side of the eastern choir, with its two slender Gothic window-frames ; and on the west, a remnant of the nave of the abbey, and some lofty arches, which once belonged to the belfry, now detached from the main building. To the south, but concealed from this point of view, is the chapter-house, some years ago exhibiting a roof of beautiful Gothic fret-work, and which was almost the only part of the abbey thus ornamented, its architecture having been characterized by an air of grand simplicity, rather than by the elegance and richness of decoration, which, in an after date, distinguished the Gothic style in England. Over the chapter-house were once the library and scrip- torium; and beyond it are still the remains of cloisters, of the refectory, the locutorium, or conversation -room, and the calefactory. These, with the walls of some chapels, of the vestry, a hall, and of what is believed to have been a school-house, are all the features of this noble edifice that can easily be traced ; winding stair- cases within the surprising thickness of the walls, and FURNESS ABBEY. 91 door-cases involved in darkness and mystery, the place abounds with. ...... " The finest view of the ruin is on the east side, where, beyond the vast shattered frame that once con- tained a richly painted window,* is seen a perspective of the choir and of distant arches, remains of the nave of the abbey, closed by the woods. This perspective of the ruin is said to be 287 feet in length ; the choir, part of it is in width only 28 feet inside, but the nave is 70 ; the walls, as they now stand, are 54 feet high ; and in thickness five. Southward from the choir extend the still beautiful, though broken, pillars and arcades of some chapels, now laid open to the day ; the chapter-house and cloisters, and beyond all, and detached from all, is the school-house, a large building, the only part of the monastery that still boasts of a roof. " Of a quadrangular court on the west side of the church, 334 feet long and 102 feet wide, little vestige now appears, except the foundation of a range of cloisters that formed its western boundary, and under the shade of which the monks, on days of high solem- nity, passed in their customary procession round the court. What was the belfry is now a huge mass of detached ruin, picturesque from the loftiness of its shattered arches, and the high inequalities of the ground within them, where the tower that once crowned this building, having fallen, lies in vast fragments, now covered with earth and grass, and no longer distinguish- able but by the hillock they form. " The school-house, a heavy structure attached to the boundary wall on the south, is nearly entire, and the walls, particularly of the portal, are of enormous thickness ; but here and there a chasm discloses the * A portion of the painted glass has been placed in the great window at Bowness Church, and a description of it is given in noticing that edifice. 92 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. staircases that wind within them to the chambers above. The school-room below shews only a stone bench, that extends round the walls, and a low stone pillar on the eastern corner, on which the teacher's pulpit was for- merly fixed. The lofty vaulted roof is scarcely distin- guishable by the dusky light admitted through one or two narrow windows, placed high from the ground, perhaps for the purpose of confining the scholar's attention to his book." The excavations at these far-famed ruins are about to be resumed, attention being particularly directed towards the mound of earth and debris adjoining the chapter-house. The abbot of Furness was endowed with great civil as well as ecclesiastical power. Throughout the district he was over all causes and all persons supreme. An oath of fealty and homage was administered to every tenant, to bear true allegiance to him against all men, except the King. He had the power in his criminal courts over life and death. He had the control over the military establishment, and every mesne lord was bound to contribute his quota of armed men at the abbot's summons. The wealth of the abbey was enor- mously great. The money-rents alone amounted, at the Dissolution, to 946 a-year. Then there are to be taken into account the produce of lands retained in their own hands, the payments made by tenants in kind, shares of mines, salt-works, etc. From HAWCOAT, a mile to the west of the abbey, there is a very extensive view, and from a height, immediately above the nightshade glen, one almost equally fine. " Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence of such a prospect, to which the monks, emerging from their concealed cells below, occasionally resorted, to soothe the asperities which the BRODGHTON. 93 severe discipline of superstition inflicted on the temper ; or, freed from the observance of jealous eyes, to indulge, perhaps, the sigh of regret, which a consideration of the world they had renounced, thus gloriously given back to their sight, would sometimes awaken." Two miles east of the abbey are the ruins of GLEASTON CASTLE, once a place of great strength. Three towers, with connecting walls enclosing a con- siderable area, still remain. This fortress was formerly the property of the Duke of Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Grey, both of whom were beheaded by Queen Mary. On a small island, in the channel between the main shore and the Isle of Walney, there is another ruined castle, called the Pile of Fouldrey, or more com- monly Peel Castle. It was erected in the time of Edward III. by an abbot of Purness ; and, as is com- mon in districts containing monastic remains, there is a legend that there is a subterranean pathway between the Abbey and the Castle in one direction, and between the Abbey and Conishead Priory in another. BROUGHTOK linn Old King's Head.] 18 miles from Ambleside by railway and road. 15J from Ulverston by railway. 35 from Wm'tehaven. Tower, Duddou Grove (2) Druid's Circle (3) Ulpha, Seathwaite, and the Vale of Duddon (7) Coniston, Waterhead (10) Ambleside (18). Broughton is a small market-town, built on inclined ground. The Tower is a residence placed at the top of a hill above the town. The route from Broughton to Coniston is uninteresting until that lake is reached. Broughton is a convenient station for visiting BLACK COMBE, a hill commanding a very extensive view. Its summit is about six miles from both 94 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Broughton and Bootla If the tourist start from the former place, he has the choice of two roads. He may either follow the main road to Bootle, as far as Broad- gate, and then take the hill side ; or he may pursue the fell road to Bootle, passing Duddon Grove, until he arrives at a stream that crosses the road, called Blackbeck. There is a sheepfold at this place, and he must now strike over the fell to the left. BROUGHTON TO SEATHWAITE AND AMBLESIDE BY EOAD. The nearest road from Broughton to Seathwaite is by Broughton Mills, but the most interesting is along the Bootle road for a short distance. It begins to ascend on leaving Broughton, and then descends to cross the Little. The river Duddon is only a little beyond. This is the stream that has been celebrated by Wordsworth in a series of sonnets, in which he describes, as most worthy of notice, the "liquid lapse serene" of the Duddon through the plain of Donner- dale ; the Kirk of Ulpha ; the view up the Duddon, from the point where the Seathwaite Brook joins it, at which place many huge stones interrupt the course of the water, and there is a tall rock on the right, called the Pen, and one on the opposite side, named Wallabarrow Crag ; and the subsidiary vale of Seath- waite. But all these things will come in order. The tourist must not cross Duddon Bridge, but must take the road on the right. That which he quits passes over Stoneside Fell to Bootle. The road by the river immediately climbs, by cottages and orchards, to a considerable elevation ; and from its terrace Duddon Grove is seen amongst its beautiful grounds, and the BROUQHTON AND THE DUDDON. 95 Bootle road may bo descried winding up the opposite hill. The common is entered about a mile and a-half from Duddon Bridge, and scenery similar in character to that of Longsleddale is disclosed. From this point a distant hill, with a craggy top in the direction of the head of the vale, will pique the stranger's curiosity. After a while, Holm Cottage is seen on the right bank of the stream. Four miles from Broughton, the river is crossed at Ulpha Kirk ("to the pilgrim's eye as welcome as a star") and a rough road strikes over the fell to Eskdale. The view from the parapet of the bridge is good. Amongst the houses close by is a small inn. Soon after leaving Ulpha (pronounced Oopha), perhaps the finest coup d'oeil in the whole valley presents itself. It is from a point on a descent which the road makes a little beyond a Wesleyan chapel Several hill screens are seen to enter the valley on either hand. Cove, a pointed hill, Blakerigg, Walna Scar, and Seathwaite Fell, are the most conspicu- ous elevations. The river is again crossed at Donnerdale Bridge, and here is the junction of the Broughton Mills road. As we approach Newfield, the Duddon is seen to issue on the plain of Donnerdale, from a rent in the rocky screen, through which is caught another peep of the same distant hill that was visible at the common gate. This scene jeminds the traveller of Kirchhet, in the vale of Hasli, Switzerland, only that is on a much larger scale. Hereabouts is Wallabarrow Crag. At Newfield, seven miles from Broughton, is a chapel, and an inn of the humblest kind. After passing this place, the road follows, for a short time, the stream from Seathwaite Tarn, and then crosses it at Nettleslack Bridge, to rejoin the Duddon, where the road by Walna Scar to Coniston deviates. The scenery about the bridge is very pleasing, and a pointed hill, 96 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. called Birks, adds to the grandeur of the view. On reaching the bank of the Duddon, the view down the rent is striking. Two miles from Newfield is a fine precipice by the river, called Goldrill Crag. Green, the artist, mentions that an immense fragment of this crag fell, some years ago, in the night, upon a large stone that rises out of the bed of the river at its foot ; and upon that very stone he and a friend of his had been sitting only a few hours previously. The noise made by the fall of rock alarmed the neighbouring shepherds, who did not discover, until the following morning, the cause of the awful sounds. At the next bridge it is worth while to notice how industriously the water has scooped pots in the hard rock, and rounded off all the angles. One rock is completely perforated, and throws a small arch to the water. Here are pools eight or ten feet deep, and the water is wonderfully transparent. The valley now becomes wild and bare. Grey Friars is on the right, and Harter Fell on the left, whilst the rocks of Wry- nose stand majestically in front. Some mines may be seen in the hill on the right. Cockley Beck Bridge, hard by the farm-houses of the same name, is soon reached; and at this place, we arrive at the road between the passes of Hardknot and Wrynose (locally pronounced Raynuz). The distance from Broughton to Cockley Beck Bridge is about twelve miles. The tourist may now proceed either over Hardknot into Fjskdale, or over Wrynose into Langdale. The latter pass is a sort of miniature Glencoe. In descending towards Ambleside, it is worth while turning off the road to the right, just at the commencement of its windings, to reach a rocky knoll that commands a fine view down a vale. Little Langdale Tarn lies below, and Wansfell closes in the distance. 97 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, 16 miles. Two and a half hour's drive by coach. The road as far as Grasmera (described pages 47 to 56) will already be familiar to the tourist. From Grasmere to Dunmail Raise is a long ascent, but the surface of the road is good. The summit of the pass is six miles and a half from Ambleside, and about seven hundred and twenty feet high ; Steel Fell is on the left, and Seat Sandal on the right. Grasmere Lake looks well from the ascent, backed by Loughrigg Fell; Butterlip How, a small elevation in the valley hides part of it for some time. A heap of stones on the top is said to mark the place of an engagement between Dunmail, King of Cumberland, and Edmund the Saxon King, in 945. The former was defeated and killed ; the eyes of his two sons were put out by order of Edmund, and the territory was given to Malcolm, King of Scotland : They now have reached that pile of stones, Heaped over brave King Dunmail's bones ; He who once held supreme command, Last king of Rocky Cumberland. His bones and those of all his power, Slain here in a disastrous hour. The boundary line between Westmoreland and Cumberland crosses the top of the pass. Soon after commencing to descend, THIKLEMEKE comes into view, and Lonscale Fell is seen in the dis- tance. The little inn, the Nag's Head, at Wythburn, H 98 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. is seven miles and three quarters from Ambleside, and tourists frequently make it their night quarters before climbing Helvellyn. Hard by, is Wytheburn's modest house of prayer, As lowly as the lowliest dwelling. People on foot, who are familiar with the scenery be- tween this place and Keswick, frequently vary their ramble by crossing the Armboth Fells to the Glen of Watendlath, and then proceed along the margin of Derwentwater to Keswick. The stranger who desires to adopt this plan should take a cart track which leaves the main road on the left soon after passing the Horse's Head. The meadows at the head of Thirlemere are crossed, and then the road winds up the steep face of the Fell When the summit is gained, a north-westerly direction must be taken. There is a path, but it is difficult to trace. The great buttresses of Helvellyn rise like walls from the valley behind, and the ascent of the mountain seems from this place quite impracti- cable. The Man is invisible, being concealed by the shoulder. Skiddaw in another direction has a grand appearance. On beginning to descend, the whole range of mountains in the west is seen drawn out in majestic array. The distance from the inn at Wytheburn to the highest house in Watendlath, is about three miles and a half. Thirlemere lies in the vale of Legberthwaite ; it is not much more than two miles and a half in length, and it is very narrow; indeed, at one part it is so narrow, that a wooden bridge is thrown from bank to bank. The precipices around it are fine, and one at the upper end, called Fisher's Crag, is a striking object. It has one small island near the foot. There is another tall crag that bears the name of Eaven Crag at its KESWICK. 1 J9 lower extremity. The Mere belongs to T. S. Leathes, Esq. of Dalhead House, and hence it is sometimes called Leathes Water. By way of varying the views, the lake may be crossed at the wooden bridge, and the high road rejoined at a short distance behind its foot. The stream issuing from the lake runs through the vale of St John (see page 127), and joins the Greta at New Bridge. The ascent of Helvellyn is sometimes begun from the KING'S HEAD INN near Smeathwaite Bridge, where the road crosses St. John's Beck. This bridge is one mile beyond the Inn, and 4 miles from Kes- wick. The distance to the summit of Helvellyn is 3 miles. After crossing the Naddle Valley, which is separated from the Vale of St. John by Naddle Fell, and which discloses very fine views of Skiddaw and Saddleback, a grand retrospective view of Helvellyn is obtained. The road then ascends to the summit of Castle-rigg, from which the matchless glories of Derwentwater, Newlands, and Borrowdale, burst upon the view on the left, Keswick and Bassenthwaite Lake on the right. This scene is one of the most enchanting in the Lake District, and it was here the poet Gray so regretted leaving Keswick. KESWICK. [Hotels : New Hallway Hotel ; Queen's (new) ; Royal Oak ; Kings' Arms ; George ; Fisher's ; and Derwentwatcr at Port.itisp.alp, 1J miles from Keswick. The Railway Station and Hotel (which are contiguous) are situated on a rising ground J mile from the town. KESWICK, a market-town in the parish of Cros- thwaite, and county of Cumberland, is situate on the south bank of the Greta, in a large and fertile vale, little more than a mile from the foot of Skiddaw, and half a mile from Derwentwater. " This vale," says Coleridge, " is about as large a basin as Loch Lomond ; the latter 100 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. is covered with water ; but in the former instance we have two lakes (Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Mere), with a charming river to connect them, and lovely villages at the foot of the mountain, and other habita- tions, which give an air of life and cheerfulness to the whole place." The town contains about 2600 inhabi- tants, and consists of one long street. The principal manufactures are black-lead pencils made of the plum- bago (or wad, as it is provincially called) extracted from the mine in Borrowdale. There is also a manu- factory of linsey-wolsey stuffs. The Town-hall, erected in 1813, upon the site of the old Court-house, stands in the centre of the town. The clock-bell, which was taken from a building that formerly stood on Lord's Island in the lake, has the letters and figures " H.D.R.O., 1001," upon it which may either be taken as a proof of its antiquity, or as merely the number of the founder. The parish church, an ancient structure, stands alone about three quarters of a mile distant, midway between the mountain and the lake. It is dedicated to St. Kentigern, to whom, under his alias of St. Mungo, Glasgow Cathedral was consecrated. Southey lies in- terred here, and a recumbent effigy of the poet, cut in svhite marble by Lough, has been erected to his memory. The verses beneath it are from the pen of his successor in the laureatship. The following is the inscription on the gravestone in the churchyard : Here lies The body of ROBERT SOUTHEY, LL.D., POET LAUREATE. Born August 12, 1774; Died March 21, 1843 For forty years a resident in this Parish. Also of EDITH, HIS WIFE. Born May 20, 1774; Died Nov. 16, 1837. 102 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. In the chancel of the church is a monument of the Ratcliffe (Earl of Derwentwater) family,* with the figures of a knight in armour and his lady, and the arms of the family, all of bronze, inlaid, and bearing the following inscription in black letter : "Of yor. charite pray for the soule of Sr. John Eatclif, Knyght, and for the state of dame Alice his wyfe, which Sr. John dyed ye 2nd day of february anno Domini 1527, on whois soule Jesu have m'cy." * The family of the Ratcliffes was originally from Lancashire, but their principal seat was at Dilston, in Northumberland. In the reign of Henry VI., Sir Nicholas Ratoliffe, of Dilston, married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Sir John de Derwentwater, who was sheriff of Cumberland in the 48th Edward III., and obtained with her the large possessions of the Der- wentwater family in this neighbourhood, and in several other counties. Sir Francis Ratcliffe, Bart., the representative of the family in the reign of James II., was created by that monarch Earl of Derwentwater upon the marriage of his son, the second Earl, with the Lady Mary Tudor, natural daughter of Charles II. By her he had four children, of whom James, the third Earl, having engaged in the rebellion of 1715, was attainted and be- headed on Tower Hill. The fate of this young and generous-hearted noble- man excited very general commiseration. "The apparent cruelty of his execution led to his being esteemed in the light of a martyr ; handkerchiefs steeped in his blood were preserved as sacred relics ; and when the mansion- house at Dilston was demolished, amid the regrets of the neighbourhood, there was great difficulty in obtaining hands to assist in the work of de- struction, which was considered almost sacrilegious. The aurora borealis was observed to flash with unwonted brilliancy on the fatal night of his execution an omen, it was said, of Heaven's wrath ; and to this day many of the country people know that meteor only by the name of Lord Derwent- water's lights." His memory is still cherished and revered in Northumber- land, where numerous instances of his affability and beneficence are still related with feelings of sympathy and regret. His brother, Charles Ratcliffe, who was condemned to death at the same time, escaped after conviction, but was retaken in the Esperance privateer, on his way to Scotland, 1745, and beheaded according to his former sentence, having first furnished the lawyers with a curious case of doubtful personal identity. The large and numerous estates of the Earl in Northumberland, Durham, and Cumberland, were forfeited, and were vested in trustees, for the support of Greenwich Hospital. The Earl of Newburgh, the representative of the family, petitioned Parliament for the reversal of the attainder ; but as the forfeited estates had been appropriated to the support of the hospital, his petition could not be granted ; and an annuity of 2500 was all that he could obtain, although the yearly value of the estates is now upwards of 60,000. KESWICK. 103 There are also two recumbent figures in plaster of paris, which have been placed there in memory of some members of the Derwentwater family of a former period. The parish church was restored a few years ago, at a cost of 4000, by James Stanger, Esq., of Lairthwaite, who is a munificent benefactor to the neighbourhood. A new church, of elegant proportions, was erected on the east of the town by the late John Marshall, Esq., who became lord of the manor by purchasing the for- feited estates of the Earl of Derwentwater from the Commissioners of Greenwich Hospital, to whom they were granted by the Crown. A spacious library has recently been erected, from funds bequeathed by the late Mr. Marshall of Halsteads to the Eev. Frederick Myers, the late incumbent of St. John's Church, to be employed by him at his discretion, for the promotion of objects connected with religion and education in Keswick and its neighbourhood. Visitors, upon pay- ment of half-a-crown, can obtain a ticket, which will entitle them to the use of the room and books for one month. A manorial Court is held annually in May. Crosthwaite's museum deserves a visit, as it contains specimens illustrating the natural history of the neigh- bourhood, as well as many foreign curiosities. Minerals and geological specimens are kept on sale. Mr. C. H. Wright and Mr. Furness, who have shops in Keswick, are recommended as mineral dealers also. Mr. Greenip, in Plosh, on the Borrowdale road, has an excellent collection of minerals and musical stones. He is an ardent naturalist, and his etymological knowledge of the district is very valuable. Mr. Flintoft's Model of the Lake District, the labour of many years, should be inspected. It is exhibited in the Town-hall. For the tourist this model possesses peculiar interest exhibit- ing as it does, an exact representation of the country 104 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. through which he is travelling, with every object mi- nutely laid down, and the whole coloured after nature. The model is on a scale of three inches to a mile, and its dimension is 12 feet 9 inches by 9 feet 3 inches. It is considered the most finished specimen of geogra- phical modelling that has been constructed in this country, and its accuracy is such as to have secured the approbation of Dr. Buckland, Professor Sedgwick, and other leading scientific men. FRIAR'S CRAG. A most agreeable half-hour's stroll may be made to Friar Crag, on the water-side, where the rowing boats lie, and from which the most enchanting near view of the lake is obtained. The field adjoining Friar Crag Southey thought still better for this view, and " there it is," he said, " if I had Aladdin's lamp, or Fortunatus' purse, I would build myself a house." The best gene- ral view, he thought, was from the terrace between Applethwaite and Millbeck, a little beyond the former hamlet, a most agreeable stroll of about three miles. CASTLE HEAD. From a wooded eminence, called Castle Head, which is entered by a wicket on the left of the Borrowdale road, a short way from Friar Crag, and about half a mile from Keswick, there is an enchanting prospect over the lake, extending on the south into the " Jaws of Borrowdale," in which Castle Crag appears like a prominent front tooth. Cat Bells, on the other side of the lake, are fine objects, as well as the other mountains which tower over the vale of Rowlands. On a fine evening the Scotch mountain Criffel (Kircudbright) is seen in the distance. GRETA HALL, the residence of the late Dr. Southey, Poet Laureate, is seated on a slight eminence near the FRIARS CRAG KESWICK. 106 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. town, about 200 yards to the right of the bridge across the river on the road to Portinscale. The poet pos- sessed a valuable collection of books, which has since his death been sold. It consisted of more than 7000 volumes a store which, as their owner remarked, was more ample perhaps than was ever possessed by one whose whole estate was in his inkstand.* The scenery visible from the windows of the Lau- reate's house was finely sketched by himself in these hexametrical lines " 'Twas at that sober hour when the light of day is receding, And from surrounding things the hues wherewith the day has adorn'd them Fade like the hopes of youth till the beauty of youth is departed : Pensive, though not in thought, I stood at the window beholding Mountain, and lake, and vale ; the valley disrobed of its verdure ; Derwent retaining yet from eve a glassy reflection, Where his expanded breast, then smooth and still as a mirror, Under the woods reposed ; the hills that calm and majestic Lifted their heads into the silent sky, far from Glaramara, Bleacrag and Maidenmawr to Grisedale and westernmost Wythop ; Dark and distinct they rose. The clouds had gather'd above them, High in the middle air huge purple pillowy masses, While in the west beyond was the last pale tint of the twilight. Green as the stream in the glen, whose pure and chrysolite waters Flow o'er a schistous bed, and serene as the age of the righteous. Earth was hush'd and still ; all motion and sound were sus- pended ; Neither man was heard, bird, beast, nor humming of insect, Only the voice of the Greta, heard only when all is stillness." * " He dwells," says Charles Lamb in one of his letters, " upon a small hill by the side of Skiddaw, in a comfortable house, quite enveloped on all sides by a net of mountains great flourishing bears and monsters." Southey, in his Colloquies, described himself " as one at the foot of Skiddaw, who is never more contentedly employed than when learning from the living minds of other ages. * * * * Here I possess the gathered treasures of time, the harvest of so many generations laid up in my garners, and when I go to the window, there is the lake, and the circle of moun tains, and the illimitable sky. DERWENT WATER * BASSENTHWAITE. WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 107 WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. The principal villas in the vicinity of Keswick are, Greta Bank (Major Spedding), Brow Top (Fenton, Esq.), Barrow House (,S. Z. Langton, Esq.), Water End (Major-General Sir John Woodford, K.C.B.), Mirehouse (T. S. Spedding, Esq.) Oak- field (T. R. Fothergill, Esq. ), The Hollies (the Misses Dunlop), Derwent Lodge (Mrs. Favell), Derwent Hill (Mrs. Turner), Larch House (E. Ormerod, Esq.), Greta Hall (C. W. Rothery, Esq.), Lairthwaite (James Stanger, Esq.), Fieldside (Mrs. Joshua Stanger), Lyzziek Hall (Rev. J. Monkhouse), Der- went Isle (H. C. Marshall, Esq.), Vicarage (Rev. W. J. Pollock), St. John's Parsonage (Rev. T. D. H. Battersby), (Skiddaw Lodge (Mrs. Rooke), Skiddaw Bank (A. Dover, Esq.), Derwent Bank (Dr. Leitch), Fawn Park (James Bell, Esq.), Under Scar (Wm. Oxley, Esq.), Riddings (John Crosier, Esq.) The neighbourhood of Keswick is exceedingly de- lightful, and the walks are proportionally numerous. Some of the walks about Derwentwater are noticed under the description of that Lake. The chart will be found of material assistance in tracing the rambles we are about to describe. From a summit called Castle- rigg, one mile from Keswick, on the Ambleside road, there is a most extensive view, comprising Derwent- water and Bassenthwaite, the heights of Skiddaw, and the Newland Mountains. Gray declares that, on leav- ing Keswick, when he turned round at this place to contemplate the scenery behind him, he was so charmed " that he had almost a mind to go back again." The outline etching from Latrigg will enable the stranger to name most of the hills seen from Castlerigg. A walk over Latrigg ("Skiddaw's Club") will furnish the stranger with innumerable delightful prospects. One of the most beautiful views of mountain groups is seen from the third gate in ascending Skiddaw, and this forms the subject of our outline etching. 108 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. BASSENTHWAITE WATER. [Four miles long, one broad. Train from Keswick to Braithwaite, 2J miles ; or Bassenthwaite, "i miles.J This lake, though inferior as regards scenery, in comparison with the others of the district, should be visited (independently of the fishing) on account of the beautiful view it affords of Skiddaw. "The Swan" at Thornthwaite, one mile from Braithwaite Station, can be recommended to anglers. DRUIDICAL CIRCLE. One mile and a half from Keswick, on an emi- nence to the right of the old road to Penrith, is a small DRUIUICAL CIRCLE, measuring 100 feet by 108, consisting of thirty-eight stones, and ten within the circle. One of them is seven feet high, but many of the others are small. This spot, says Southey, is the most commanding which could be chosen in this part of the country, without climbing a mountain. Latrigg and the huge side of Skiddaw are on the north , to the east is the open country toward Penrith, expand- ing from the vale of St. John, and extending for many miles, with Mell Fell in the distance, where it rises alone like a huge tumulus on the right, and Blen- cathara on the left, rent into deep ravines. On the south-east is the range of Helvellyn, from its termi- nation at Wanthwaite Crags to its loftiest summits, and to Dunmail Raise. The lower range of Nathdale Fells lies nearer in a parallel line with Helvellyn, and the dale itself, with its little streamlet below. The heights above Leathes Water, with the Borrowdale mountains, complete the panorama. 109 DEKWENTWATEK,* otherwise Keswick Lake, is about half a mile from the town, from which the latter name is taken. A scene of more luxuriant beauty than this lake affords can scarcely be imagined. Its shape is symmetrical with- out being formal, while its size is neither so large as to merge the character of the lake in that of the inland sea, nor so circumscribed as to expose it to the charge of insignificance. Derwentwater approaches to the oval form, extend- ing from north to south about three miles, and being in breadth about a mile and a half, " expanding within an amphitheatre of mountains, rocky but not vast, broken into many fantastic shapes, peaked, splintered, impend- ing, sometimes pyramidal, opening by narrow valleys to the view of rocks that rise immediately beyond, and are again overlooked by others. The precipices seldom overshoot the water, but are arranged at some distance ; and the shores swell with woody eminences, or sink into green pastoral margins. Masses of wood also frequently appear among the cliffs, feathering them to their summits; and a white cottage sometimes peeps from out their skirts, seated on the smooth knoll of a pasture projecting to the lake, and looks so exquisitely picturesque, as to seem placed there purposely to adorn it. The lake in return faithfully reflects the whole * There is no steamer on this lake, but numerous small boats, which are more in keeping with the scenery, may be hired at the waterside. The usual charge is Is. per hour. 110 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. picture, and so even and brilliantly translucent is its surface, that it rather heightens than obscures the colouring." 5 * The principal islands in the lake are Vicar's Isle, Lord's Island, and St. Herbert's Isle. VICAR'S ISLE or DEKWENT ISLE, is that nearest the foot of the lake ; it contains about six acres, and belongs to Henry Cowper Marshall, Esq., whose residence is upon it. This island was formerly an appurtenant to Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire. LORD'S ISLAND, of a size some- what larger than the last, has upon it the hardly per- ceptible remains of a pleasure house, erected by one of the Ratcliffes with the stones of their deserted castle, which stood on Castlerigg. This island was once connected with the main-land, from which it was severed by the Batcliifes, by a fosse, over which a drawbridge was thrown. ST. HERBERT'S ISLE, placed nearly in the centre of the lake, derives its name from a holy hermit who lived in the seventh century, and had his cell .on this island. To St. Cuthbert of Dur- ham this "saintly eremite" bore so perfect a love, as to pray that he himself might expire the moment the breath of life quitted the body of his friend, so that their souls might wing their flight to heaven in company. Wordsworth's inscription for the spot where the hermitage stood, from which the following lines lire taken, refers to this legend, " When, with eye upraised To heaven, he knelt before the crucifix, * So transparent is the water that pebbles may be easily seen fifteen or twenty feet below its surface, and we are reminded of the Sicilian Lake ("nemoruin frondoso margine cinctus") described by Claudian: Admittit in altum Cernentes oculos, et late pervius humor Ducit in offenso liquido sub gurgite visus, Imaque perspicui prodit secreta profundi. CLAOD. de. Rapt. Prof. DERWENTWATER. Ill While o'er the lake the cataract of Lowdore Peal'd to bis orisons, and when he paced Along the beach of this small isle, and thought Of his companion, he would pray that both (Now that their earthly duties were fulfill'd) Might die in the same moment. Nor in vain So pray'd he as our chronicles report, Though here the hermit number'd his last day, Far from St. Cuthbert, his beloved friend Those holy men both died in the same hour." At the period when the Pope's laws were supreme in England, the vicar of Crosthwaite went to celebrate mass in his chapel on the island, on the thirteenth of April annually, to the joint honour of St. Herbert and St. Cuthbert ; to every attendant at which forty days indulgence was granted as a reward for his devotion. " What a happy holy day must that have been for all these vales," says Southey ; " and how joyous on a fine spring day must the lake have appeared, with boats and banners from every chapelry ; and how must the chapel have adorned that little isle, giving a human and religious character to the solitude !" Near the ruins of the chapel the late Sir Wilfrid Lawson (from whom the island has been purchased by Henry Cowper Marshall, Esq., of Leeds) erected a few years ago a small cottage, which being built of unhewn stone, and artificially mossed over, has an appearance of antiquity. There are three or four other islets, the largest of which is Rampsholm. At irregular intervals of a few years, the ' lake exhibits a singular phenomenon in the rising of a piece of ground, called the FLOATING ISLAND, from the bottom to the surface of the water. Its superficial extent varies in different years, from an acre to a few perches. It is composed of earthy matter, six feet in thickness, covered with vegetation, and is full of air bubbles, which, it is supposed, by penetrating the 112 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. whole mass, diminish its specific gravity, and are the cause of its buoyancy. This natural phenomenon is situate about 150 yards from the shore, near Lodore. This lake contains abundance of pike, trout, and perch.* KESWICK TO BORROWDALE AND BUTTERMERE. Perhaps no excursion in the vicinity of the Lakes exhibits more beautiful prospects of rock, wood, and water, than that by the east side of Derwentwater to Borrowdale. Leaving Keswick by the Borrowdale road, Castle Head, Wallow Crag, and Falcon Crag, are successively passed on the lei't A hollow in the summit of Wallow Crag is visible from the road. There is a tradition current in the country, that by means of this hollow the Countess of Derwentwater effected her escape when the Earl was arrested for high treason, carrying with her a quantity of jewels and other valuables. It has ever since borne the name of the Lady's Rake ("rake" being the term applied in this country to openings in the hills like this). Two miles from Keswick a road strikes off across Barrow Common to Watendlath, a narrow ele- vated glen with a tarn at its head. It is well worth a visit ; the few fields are richly green, and the rocks * Besides these, occasionally may be found a bright silvery fish, with a skull so transparent that the heart-shaped brain may be seen through it, and a mouth so delicate and destitute of teeth, that we are at a loss to know how it devours its food. On the examination of specimens, we are inclined to believe that this is the true Vendace (Coregonus Willvghbii). a flsh hither- to supposed peculiar to Lochmaben, but which has been found once or twice within the last few years in Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite. It is never, so far as known taken with the rod, but we are informed that the inn- keeper at Lowdore on one occasion, drew a shoal of them in his net. They are more usually found about their spawning season, which happens in the beginnning of November, floating on the surface of the water in a dying state . LODORE. j j o on each side, though not very lofty, are fi ne picturesquely plumed with tree, Near the head of the glen a road climbs a ridge and descends to Borrow- ~~?5?3tt near the entr ^ce to Barrow ommo^ j mounting the m row obtam an exceedingly fine prospect. Bassentl wai te Lake is seen m the distance with Dodd, a p e e ?f Sbddaw on the right, and the hills of Brai hwaS and Thornthwaite on the left. Over Stable Hm, - f photographs. One mile beyond Barrow the road hav,ng passed under low-wooded High-wooj Tcra^ LODORE HOTEL, 114 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. obtained. A rough footpath, through the wood and under the rocks overhanging the stream, may be found into the Watendlath Glen, from Lodore Half a mile beyond this, at a place called High Lodore, to distinguish it from Low Lodore (where the fall is), a new hotel has been erected, called BORROW- DALE HOTEL, from the position it occupies near the entrance to the dale. From this, Grange Bridge, which spans Borrowclale Beck,* is half a mile distant. Half a mile from Grange (or one mile from Bor- rowdale Hotel) is the celebrated BOWDER STOXE, a huge block which has rolled from the heights above, and now rests on a platform of ground a short dis- tance to the left of the road. It is 62 feet long, 36 feet high, 89 feet in circumference, and it has been computed to weigh upwards of 1900 tons. A branch road through the slate quarry, which rejoins the Bor- rovvdale road further on, has been made to the Stone, and the summit may be gained by means of a ladder affixed for the use of strangers " Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground, A mass of rock, resembling as it lay Eight at the foot of that moist precipice, A stranded ship, with keel upturn'd, that rests Careless of winds and waves." WORDSWOKTH. Close to Bowder Stone, near the centre of the vale, but on the opposite side of the river, from the bank of which it suddenly rises, is a truncated cone-like eleva- tion clothed with wood, called Castle Crag, so termed from a Roman fortification having once occupied the summit, faint traces of which were visible a few years ago. Some of the relics are shewn in Crosthwaite's * About 400 yards from the bridge, on the Keswick side, there is a remarkable echo, which, on a calm day, returns four or five distinct answers. It is best heard from the unenclosed plot of ground on the left LOWDORE WATERFALL. 116 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. museum. At the foot of the Castle Crag there is merely room for the road and the river, and this may truly be said to be one of the most beautiful spots in England. CONTINUATION OF THIS TOUR By Honister Crag, "Buttermere, and Crummock, returning to Keswick by the vale of Lorton. The return route direct from Buttermere by the vale of Newlands is shorter, but not nearly so beautiful. The valley of Borrowdale may be said to commence here. The low grounds, which are chiefly pasture- lands, contain about 2000 acres ; there is little timber, but the coppice woods and thickets add greatly to the delightful nature of the scenery. The valley was formerly a possession of Furness Abbey. A mile above Bowder Stone is Rosthwaite, where there is a small inn, at which a guide may be procured to any 01 the points of interest in the neighbourhood.* A short distance further a road strikes on the left through Stonethwaite and the Stake Pass to Langdale, passing under a fine rock called Eagle Crag, and then over the ridge called the Stake. Eagle Crag is seen from the Borrowdale road on passing the mouth of the Stone- thwaite Glen. Two miles beyond Rosthwaite is Sea- toller, where the road into Wastdale, by the village of Seathwaite and Sty Head Pass, described on a subse- quent page, continues up Borrowdale on the left. It is worth while to go one mile up this road to see the four magnificent yew-trees commemorated by Words- worth in these lines : -" Fraternal four of Borrowdale, Join'd in one solemn and capacious grove ; Huge trunks ! and each particular trunk a growth Of intertwisted fibres, serpentine, * Watendlath glen and lake may be conveniently visited from this place, the ascent yielding some exquisite views. 118 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Upcoiling and inveterately convolved, Nor uninform'd with phantasy, and looks That threaten the profane ; a pillar'd shade, Upon whose grassless floor of red-brown hue, By sheddings from the pining umbrage tinged Perennially beneath whose sable roof Of boughs, as if for festal purpose deck'd With unrejoicing berries ghastly shapes May meet at noontide, there to celebrate As in a natural temple, scatter'd o'er With altars undisturb'd of mossy stone, United worship." LEAD MINES. In the neighbourhood of Seatlnvaite are the cele- brated mines of plumbago, or black-lead, as it is usually called. They were worked at intervals for upwards of two centuries, and were the only mines of the kind in England, but they are not now wrought. The best plumbago is now procured from the pits at Borrow dale. The whole produce of these mines is sent up to Lon- don, where it is sold by auction. The produce of six weeks' annual working is said to be from 30,000 to 40,000. The hill opposite to the mines bears the fine- sounding British name of Glaramara. By a little stretch of fancy the stranger may perhaps hear the streams "murmuring in Glaramara's inmost caves." At Seatoller the ascent of Borrowdale Haws is commenced. This hill is steep and the road rough ; but carriages can easily be taken over. The pass is eleven hundred feet in height, and commands noble prospects of the receding valley of Borrowdale. Hel- vellyn may be descried over the Borrowdale Fells, or Watendlath range, as it is sometimes called. The finest peaks seen from this point, however, are those of Scawfell and Glaramara. Scawfell is only seen in very HONISTER CRAG. 120 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. clear weather. The Great Gable is not seen till we get to Buttermere. On the north of the pass is the hill named Yewdale. The road descends rapidly into the head of Butter- mere Dale, where Honister Crag presents an almost perpendicular wall of rock, rising on the left to the height of fifteen hundred feet In the face of the rock, a considerable height above its base, large chambers have been cut, tier above tier, in which roofing slates are excavated. The slates are shaped in the quarry and brought down by men on wooden hurdles. These quarries belong to Lord Leconfield, of Cockermouth Castle. Yew Crag rises on the other side. One mile below Honister Crag, and four from Seatollar, is a farm-house, near the head of Buttermere Lake, called Gatescarth, whence a mountain road crosses by the pass of Scarf Gap into the head of Ennerdale, and reaches "Wastdale Head by means of another pass called Black Sail. Hasness, the residence of Eeed, Esq., occupies a pretty situation on the left, near the margin of the lake. A series of mountain summits towers over the opposite shore of the lake. The Hay Stacks, so termed from their form, are the most eastern ; then follow High Crag, High Stile, and Eed Pike. A stream issuing from a small tarn, which lies between the two last, makes a fine cascade, bearing the name of Sour- Milk GilL BUTTERMERE. [Inns : .The Fish Inn ; The Queen Victoria. No vehicles kept here. Boats for visiting Scale Force to be got by applying at the Fish Inn.] The village of Buttermere stands on declining ground near the foot of the lake, fourteen miles from Keswick by Borrowdale, and nine by the vale of New- 122 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. lands. It consists of a few scattered farm-houses, with two tolerable inns, and forms, by reason of the surrounding hills, the very picture of seclusion, " The margin of the lake, which is overhung by some of the loftiest and steepest of the Cumbrian mountains, exhibits on either side few traces of human neighbour- hood ; the level area, where the hills recede enough to allow of any, is of a wild pastoral character, or almost savage. The waters of the lake are deep and sullen, and the barrier mountains, by excluding the sun for much of his daily course, strengthen the gloomy impressions. At the foot of this lake He a few unorna- ruented fields, through which rolls a little brook, con- necting it with the larger lake of Crummock, and at the edge of this miniature domain, upon the road-side, stands a cluster of cottages, so small and few, that in the richer tracts of the island they would scarcely be complimented with the name of hamlet."* A small chapel has been erected at the expense of the Rev. Vaughan Thomas, by the road-side, upon the site of a still smaller one. The view of the two lakes and the surrounding mountains from the Knots, a moderate elevation about 300 yards from the Victoria Hotel, is surpassingly fine. (See outline view, No. 7.) The story of Mary, the beauty of Buttermere, is now, from its repeated publication, very generally known briefly stated it is this : She was possessed of con- siderable personal charms, and being the daughter of the innkeeper, her usual employment was to wait upon those guests, who at that time made their way so far into the heart of the hills. Her beauty in this way became the theme of what may be called extensive praise. A man, who designated himself the Honourable Colonel Hope, brother of Lord Hopetoun, but whose * De Quincey. OUTLINE VIEWS BUTTERMERE t f . CRUMMOCK WATER. 123 real name was Hatfield, fleeing from the arm of the law to these sequestered parts, was struck with Mary's attractions, and paid his addresses to her. No great length of time elapsed after the marriage before he was apprehended on a charge of forgery. He was tried at Carlisle, and being found guilty, suffered the extreme penalty of the law. Mary married for her second husband a respectable farmer of Caldbeck, and died a few years ago. A good road of nine miles, after climb- ing Butterinere Haws, 800 feet high, conducts the visitor through the vale of Newlands to Keswick. A footpath leading through the fields, and across the little stream connecting the two lakes, conducts to SCALE FORCE, the loftiest waterfall in the vicinity of the Lakes. The road, in damp weather especially, is none of the cleanest, and therefore a boat is generally taken, which lands the visitor about half a mile from the fall. The bank at the head of the cascade over- looks a magnificent view of the lake and mountains. Buttermere Lake and Honister Crag are components of the scene. The road to Keswick, by Newlands, may be seen climbing the Haws. A mountain path, leaving Scale Force on the left and climbing the fells above it, leads into Ennerdale ; Floutern Tarn which is passed on the way, serves as a landmark. The pedestrian who pursues this route ought to know that the only inns in that valley are at Ennerdale Bridge, and a small one on the margin of the Mere. Extending the excursion to SCALE HILL, four miles and a half from Buttermere, the road traverses the north-eastern shore of CRUMMOCK WATEE, passing under the hills Whiteless, Lad-house, Grasmoor, and Whiteside. Melbreak is a fine object on the other 124 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. shore. From the foot of this mountain a narrow pro- montory juts into the lake, the extremity of which, when the waters are swollen, becomes insulated. A short distance before Scale Hill is reached, there is a fine view into the sylvan valley of Lorton. At Scale Hill there is a large and comfortable inn, which for a few days might advantageously be made the tourist's residence. * There are walks cut through Lanthwaite "Wood, commencing at the inn door, and running some distance by the side of the lake. One of the outline views is taken from this wood, the whole of which, as well as Lowes Water, and one-half of Crummock Lake, belong to Mr. Marshall There is a lead mine in the neighbourhood of Scale Hill. Boats may be had upon Crummock Lake, from which the inn is about a mile distant, and Scale Force may be visited, if not seen previously. One boating excursion at least ought to be taken, for the purpose of viewing the fine panorama of mountains which enclose the lake, and which can no- where be seen to such advantage as from the bosom of the water. From the lower extremity, Rannerdale Knot and the Melbreak promontory seem to divide the lake into two reaches. Whiteside and Grasmoor are majestic to the highest degree. Green has pointed out one station for obtaining a fine view not only of Crummock Lake but of Buttermere also. It is from a point two or three hundred yards above the promontory under Melbreak ; Honister Crag is seen closing the prospect on the north. The Lake is three miles long, by about three-quarters of a mile broad ; its sounded depth is twenty-two fathoms. There are three small and prettily wooded islands at the head, but they are too near the shore to add much to the other beauties of * There are also two or three houses fitted up for the accommodation of visitors. OUTLINE VIEWS (iJLl.S WATER) BUTTERMERE, CRUMMOCK * LOWES WATER. Sinnit* Miles. LOWES WATER. 125 the scenery. The tourist will be repaid by climbing Low Fell, from the summit of which he will have a good view of the lakes of Crummock, Lowes Water, and Buttermere. At the foot of Low Fell are situate Foulsyke and Oakbank, the only villas in the neighbour- hood. The small lake called LOWES WATER may also be visited. It is scarcely a mile long, and the scenery at its head is tame ; but that round its foot, when the Crummock mountains are added to the views, is of a magnificent description. Pedestrians will enjoy a walk of about seven miles round Lowes Water. Ennerdale may be reached from Scale Hill also, by tracking the stream from Floutern Tarn, which comes down behind Melbreak From Scale Hill the tourist may proceed to the town of Cockermouth, the birth-place of the poet Wordsworth, which is seven miles distant visit Ennerdale Water by way of Lamplugh or return to Keswick by the vale of Lorton, a distance of twelve miles. This vale, waterd by the Cocker, a stream which, issuing from Crummock Lake, joins the Derwent at Cockermouth, affords many charming views ; and four miles from Scale Hill the Keswick and Cocker- mouth road is entered near the Yew-tree which Words- worth has celebrated. "There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale, Which to this day stands single in the midst Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore. Not loth to furnish weapons for the oanas Of Umfraville or Percy, ere they march 'd To Scotland's heaths ; or those that crossed the sea, And drew their sounding bows at Agincourt, Perhaps at earlier Cressy or Poictiers. 126 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Of vast circumference and gloom profound, This solitary tree ! a living thing Produced too slowly ever to decay ; Of form and aspect too. magnificent To be destroyed."* Returning to Keswick, the traveller takes the long ascent of Whinlater, from the summit of which the spectator has a noble combination of objects before him comprehending Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite Water, Skiddaw, and Keswick Vale. The distance between Scale Hill and Keswick may be shortened by almost two miles, if the road under Whiteside and Swinside be taken. The first part of this road forms a terrace, from which views of Lorton Vale, of the neighbouring hills, and extending even to the Scotch mountains, may be obtained. In descending into the vale of Keswick, Skiddaw is seen in front, and Lord's Seat on the left. After a while, Bassenthwaite Water * There are some fine remains of the yew extant in the lake country, witness the Lorton, Borrowdale, and Patterdale Trees, noticed in this volume. Some of the limestone escarpments have numbers climbing up their sides ; but, in consequence of their exposed situation, they are but poor specimens of a tree which, when enormous bulk is joined, as sometimes happens, to the venerableness of antiquity, presents one of the most striking objects in the vegetable creation. At Ankerwyke House, near Staines, is a yew, older than the meeting of the English Barons at Runny- mede, with branches overshadowing a circle of 207 feet in circumference. The yews at Fountain Abbey are more than 1200 years old. Gilpin refers to a tree near Taymouth, Perthshire, fifty-six feet and a half in circumference ; and Oldys, in his Diary, mentions a tree in Tankersley Park, called Talbot's Yew, within the trunk of which a man on horseback might turn about. Since the introduction of fire-arms, the cultivation of the yew has been altogether neglected : but when we consider that it furnished our ancestors with their most valued weapons, and that its connection in this way with Agincourt, with Cressy, and other well-fought fields, is a noticeable and brilliant fact in our history, some little attention should, we think, be directed to its encouragement, although it has long ceased to be a useful tree. It is to be feared that its extinction, except as a garden curiosity, will otherwise soon be complete. " The warlike Yew, with which, more than the lance, The strong ann'd English spirits conquered France. "WILLIAM BROWNE. VALE OF ST. JOHN. 127 in one direction, and Helvellyn in another, come into view. The vale of Newlands is the way by which the greater number of tourists return to Keswick from Butter mere. The ascent of Buttermere Haws is occa- sionally very steep, and the road overhangs at a great height a stream flowing to Crummock Water. White- less Pike stands on the other side of the stream. The road makes a long descent on the other side, and near the summit a stream called Robinson Force is seen to make several white falls in dashing down the hill- side. At a bridge a little before crossing to Stair, where there is a woollen mill, two narrow glens, bare of wood, come into view. The mountain Eobinson stands on the right of the first ; Hindscarth is between the two ; and the upper end of the second is closed in by Dale Head ; Gold Scalp and Maiden Moor fencing it from Derwentwater. When the road next divides, that to the right must again be taken. This upper part of the valley is very bare, and is called Keskadale ; and here Causey Pike, recognised by a peculiar hump on its top, becomes conspicuous. . The Cockermouth road is met at Portinscale, and then a turn to the right will be made, which will bring the tourist to Keswick. The distance from Keswick to Buttermere by this road is about nine miles. VALE OF ST. JOKN". An agreeable excursion of thirteen miles and a half may be made from Keswick into the famous VALLEY OP ST. JOHN. The Penrith road must be pursued for three miles, where the road strikes off to the right immediately opposite the milestone, or four miles to the village of Threlkeld. If the first and nearest be' 128 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. taken it joins the other in the valley. This road, lying almost the whole way on the banks of the Greta,* passes the Druidical Circle (page 108) and under the mountain masses of Skiddaw and Blencathara (Saddle- back). This is by far the best way of seeing the vale, as the finest scenery is at the head of it> near the natural fortification ; but the easiest way would be to take a four miles' drive by the Ambleside coach to Smeeth- waite Bridge, where the vale joins the road, and walk down the other way. The old Hall at Threlkeld has long been in a state of dilapidation, the only habitable part having been for years converted into a farm-house, This was one of the residences of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, a powerful knight in the reign of Henry VII., step- father of the " Shepherd Lord." He was wont to say that "he had three noble houses one for pleasure, Crosby in Westmoreland, where he had a park full of deer; one for profit and warmth, namely, Yanwith, * Upon the river Greta, Wordsworth has composed the following sonnet : " Greta, what fearful listening ! when huge stones Rumble along thy bed, block after block ; Or, whirling with reiterated shock, Combat, while darkness aggravates the groans . But if thou (like Cocytus, from the moans Heard on $his rueful margin) thence wert named The Mourner, thy true nature was defamed ; And the habitual murmur that atones For thy worst rage forgotten. Oft as spring Decks on thy sinuous bank her thousand thrones Seats of glad instinct and of love's carolling The concert, for the happy, then may vie With liveliest peals of birth-day harmony To a grieved heart the notes are benisons." The channel of the Greta, immediately above Keswick, has, for the pur- poses of building, been in a great measure cleared of the immense stones which, by their concussion in high floods, produced the loud and awful noises described in the sonnet. The scenery upon the river (says Dr. Southey), where it passes under the woody side of Latrigg, is of the finest and most rememberable kind. VALE OF ST. JOHN. 129 nigh Penrith ; and the third, Threlkeld, on the edge of the vale of Keswick, well stocked with tenants to go with him to the wars." These "three noble houses" are now the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, and are all occupied as farm-houses. Wordsworth makes men- tion of this Hall in "The "Waggoner." " And see beyond the hamlet small, The ruined towers of Threlkeld Hall, Lurking in a double shade, By trees and lingering twilight made ? There, at Blencathara's rugged feet, Sir Lancelot gave a safe retreat To noble Clifford, from annoy Conceal'd the persecuted boy, Well pleased in rustic garb to feed His flock, and pipe on shepherd's reed Among this multitude of hills, Crags, woodlands, waterfalls, and rills." A short distance on the Keswick side of Threlkeld, the road leading into the Vale of St. John branches off on the right. A branch of the river Greta, called St. John's Beck, runs through this valley, which is narrow, but extremely picturesque, being bounded on the right by Nathdale or Naddle Fell, and on the left by Great Dodd, a hill at the extremity of the Helvellyn chain. The chapel stands on the right, at the summit of the pass between St. John's Vale and Naddle. Though standing on an elevation, it is said that the sun never shines upon it during three months of the year. There are fine retrospective views of Saddleback with its cooms, and the peculiar shape of the summit which gives a name to the mountain will be noticed. The high road from Ambleside to Keswick is gained four miles and a half, from Threlkeld. From Great How, a wooded height on the south of this high road, the view is very beautiful From the end of Naddle Fell, in the vale of Thirlspot, near to Thirlmere, some sweet K 130 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. glimpses of that lake may be obtained The rock, which has given celebrity to the valley, stands near the extremity on the left. The resemblance to a fortifica- tion is certainly very striking, when seen from a certain distance.- It is the scene of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of Triermain," in which poem there is the following description of the appearance the rock presented to the charmed senses of King Arthur : " With toil the King his way pursued By lonely Threlkeld's waste and wood, Till OD his course obliquely shone The narrow valley of SAINT JOHN, Down sloping to the western sky, Where lingering sunbeams love to lie. ******* Paled in by many a lofty hill, The narrow dale lay smooth and still, And, down its verdant bosom led, A winding brooklet found its bed. But, midmost of the vale, a mound Arose with airy turrets crown'd, Buttress, and rampire's circling bound And mighty keep and tower ; Seem'd some primeval giant's hand The castle's massive walls had plann'd, A ponderous bulwark to withstand Ambitious Nimrod's power. Above the moated entrance slung, The balanced drawbridge trembling hung, As jealous of a foe ; Wicket of oak, as iron hard, With iron studded, clench'd, and barr'd; And prong'd portcullis, join'd to guard The gloomy pass below. But the grey walls no banners crown'd, Upon the watch tower's airy round No warder stood his horn to sound, No guard beside the bridge was found, And where the Gothic gateway frown'd, Glanced neither bill nor bow." And even now, when faith in preternatural appear- KESWICK TO WASTWATER. 131 ances has well nigh passed away, the poet tells us that still " when a pilgrim strays, In morning mist or evening maze, Along the mountain lone, That fairy fortress often mocks His gaze upon the castle rocks Of the valley of St. John." Keswick is nine miles and a half from Threlkeld by way of the Vale of St. John. The ridge of Castle- rigg, whence there is the splendid prospect already noticed, is crossed one mile from Keswick. KESWICK TO WASTWATEB, 14 miles. Although there are many ways of approaching "Wastwater, it is doubtful if any can afford the tourist such satisfaction and pleasure as that from Keswick. It may be said without exaggeration that no excursion combines such an amount and so varied a description of scenery as that from Keswick by Borrowdale to Wastwater, by the Sty Head Pass, returning over the passes of Black Sail and Scarf Gap to Buttermere, and from that to Keswick, either by the vale of Newlands or of Lorton. This route includes the view of five lakes, viz., Derwent water, Wastwater, Ennerdale, Buttermere, and Crummock ; three of the wildest passes ; and most of the principal mountains, including Scawfell Pike, the highest, Great Gable, etc. For crossing the passes a guide is required, and if the journey is to be per- formed in one day, a vehicle is necessary as far as Seathwaite, which may be met again at Buttermere. Without the vehicle it would be necessary to stay one night at Wastdale Head. 132 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. The time required for this excursion is as follows :- Leave Keswick . . . (say) 8.30 A.M. Get to Seathwaite, by vehicle . . 10. And send it on to wait at Buttermere Inn. Top of Sty Head Pass 11.0 Wastdale Head Inn 12. Leave Wastdale Head 1 . P M. Top of Black Sail . 2.30 Scarf Gap . 3.40 Head of Buttermere 4.15 Buttermere Inn . 4.45 Leave Buttermere, by vehicle 6.30 Vale of Lorton . 7.30 Keswick 8.30 When there are ladies in a party, they can go on in the vehicle from Seathwaite, by Honister Crag, to Buttermere, as de- scribed page 116. The Sty Head Pass is one of the highest and wildest in the district, and from no other point is there such a magnificent view of Scawfell and the Great Gahle. The summit is 1560 feet high, a little below which (1400) is a tarn of considerable size, which forms the source of a fine waterfall, seen in the ascent. This is the best place from which to ascend either of these mountains, but of course, if this be done, the rest of the excursion must be deferred, and the tourist spend the night at Wastdale Head. The Pass is shut in by the Great Gable on the north and Great End on the south. The ascent both ways is very steep, and, if ponies be taken over, very great caution is required. Descending the Sty Head Pass, we have, by looking back in the course of the steep descent, the peak of the Great Gable (2949) presented to view in the most im- posing manner Rocks, stones, and mounds confasedly hurl'd, The fragments of an earlier world. In the course of the whole excursion there is perhaps nothing more striking than this. W&ST WATER *c. """"-'?^f>^-:im^' WASTWATER.. 133 The ascent of the Great Gable is well worthy of being undertaken, even although it were less easily ac- complished, on account of the splendid view which it commands. WASTWATER The first view of Wastwater, going in this direction, is not much in its favour, and its appearance holds out little inducement to the wearied tourist to investigate its shores further. To be seen properly, however, it must be inspected by boat, and the sail must be con- tinued all the way down. Situated about a mile from the head of the lake is the hamlet of Wastdale Head, which consists merely of a few scattered homesteads and a little chapel. There is no regular inn, but refreshment and lodgings can be obtained at one of the farm-houses (William Eitson's, now licensed for the sale of both beer and spirits), and which is comfortable and clean, and sufficiently large to accommodate ten or twelve tourists over night. The panorama of mountains surrounding this level area is strikingly grand. Stand- ing at the head of the lake, the spectator will have Yewbarrow, like the slanting roofs of a house, on his left ; further up, Kirkfell ; and immediately before him Great Gable, a little on the right of which is lingmell, a protrusion from Scawfell Pikes and Scawfell, which mountains bring the eye to the Screes. Wastwater is three and a half miles in length, and about half a mile broad. The deepest part yet discovered is forty-five fathoms, and on account of this great depth it has never been known to be iced over, even in the severest winter. The mountains round the lake rise to a great altitude. The Screes hang over the south-east margin and form an extraordi- nary feature in the landscape, whilst Seatallan guards the opposite shore. One mile from the foot of the lake, 134 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. and six from Wastdale Head, is the village of Nether Wastdale (Inn : Strands, at which boats on the lake may be procured). The ascent of Scawfell Pike may be conveniently made from this place, by taking a boat to the head of the lake and landing at the foot of the mountain. Half a mile from the village, at the extre- mity of the Screes Mountain, is a ravine called Hawl Gill. The felspar of the granite rocks having decom- posed, they have wasted into needle-like peaks, re- minding the Swiss traveller of the aiguilles of Mount Blanc. There is a vein of spicular iron ore here, as well as some fine haematite. Those who are not to be deterred by a little exertion would be astonished by the views afforded from the lofty terrace of the Screes. An elevation near the first bridge, on the road from Strands to the lake, has been selected as the station for our outline sketch. SCAWFELL. The aggregation of mountains called collectively Scawfell, which stand at the head of Wastdale, form four several summits bearing separate names. The most southerly of the four is Scawfell Pike (3208 feet) ; the next is Scawfell (3161 feet) ; Lingmell (2649) is more to the west, forming a sort of buttress to the loftier heights ; and Great End (2982) is the advanced guard on the north, towards Borrowdale. The whole mass is composed of a species of hard dark slate. Some con- fusion has been caused by the similarity of names, and the lower elevation of Scawfell has been attained, when that of Scawfell Pike was desired, a mistake more likely to be made since both are surmounted by cairns. Parties ascending from Eitson's farm-house are apt to fall into this error by keeping too much on the side SCAWFELL. 135 of the Screes, from which only Scawfell (and not the Pike) is visible. They are thus betrayed on by seeing clearly from the dale the whole ascent (as imagined) ; whereas the Pike is not seen from the Screes, nor indeed at all, until the summit of Scawfell is reached. The ascent of the two higher mountains may be commenced from several valleys from Langdale, Borrowdale, or Wastdale. But, upon the whole, the easiest and most gradual ascent is from Wastdale Head, where Lingmell projects toward the water. The tourist is recommended to go round the foot of the tongue of Lingmell, then ascend by following the stream between Lingmell and Scawfell ; and deflections to the right and left in succession will place the climber upon Scawfell Pike. From Borrowdale, the best course is to strike off at the head of Sty Head Pass, until Sty Head Tarn is reached. Leaving this tarn on the left, and bending your way towards Sprinkling Tarn, which must also be kept on the left, a turn to the right must shortly be made conducting to a pass called Eskhause, having on the left Hanging Knott, and on the right Wastdale Broad Crag. The summit of Scawfell Pike is in view from this place, but much exertion will be required before either that or its sister height will be reached. Great End will have to be ascended, and continuing along the summit-ridge, some rocky eminences will be passed on the left. A considerable descent must then be made to the right, and two narrow ridges in hollows crossed, from the second of which the trigonometrical station on the Pike will be reached by a steep path strewn with loose stones. The two elevations of Scaw- fell and Scawfell Pike, though not more than three- quarters of a mile distant from each other in a direct line, are separated by a fearful chasm, called Mickledore, 136 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. which compels a circuit to he made of two miles in pass- ing from one to the other. The passage hy Mickle- dore, though dangerous, is not impassahle, as some of the adventurous dalesmen can testify. All vegetation hut that of lichens has forsaken the summits of Scaw- fell Pike and its rival " Cushions or tufts of moss, parched and hrown," says a writer, with true poetical feeling, appear hetween the huge blocks and stones that lie in heaps on all sides to a great distance, like skeletons or bones of the earth not needed at the creation, and there left to he covered with never-dying lichens, which the clouds and dews nourish and adorn with colours of exquisite beauty. Flowers, the most brilliant feathers, and even gems, scarcely surpass in colouring some of those masses of stone." The view from the Pike is, of course, of a most extensive description, embracing such a "tumultuous waste of huge hill tops," that the mind and eye alike become confused in the endeavour to distinguish the various objects. The mountains, having lost the shapes they possessed when viewed from beneath, are only to be recognised by those acquainted with the locality of each ; however, with the aid of his compass, map, and our directions, the inquiring gazer will be able to assign names to most of them. Turning to the south, More- cambe Bay and the Lancashire coast to a great extent are seen, and on clear days the prospect comprehends a portion of the \Velsh Highlands. The Screes intercept the view of the greatest portion of Wastwater, and Scawfell conceals much of the Screes. To the left, Eskdale and Miterdale are seen contributing their waters to the ocean. Furness and the Isle of Walney are visible in the same direction, as well as D evoke Water, placed on an elevated moor, beyond which Black Combe is a prominent object. Still more to the SCAWFELL. 137 east, "Wrynoee, "Wetherlam, Coniston Old Man, with the rest of the mountains at the head of Eskdale, Seathwaite, and Little Langdale, are conspicuous. Bow- fell, obscuring Langdale, appears in the east, and through the gap between Bowfell and Cringle Crags part of the middle of Windermere and the country about Kendal are seen. Far away beyond, the York- shire hills, with Ingleborough, the monarch of them all, are plainly visible. To the left of Bowfell, Langdale Pikes are descried ; and beyond, the eye rests upon Hill Bell, High Street, Wansfell, Fairfield, separated by the Grisedale depression from Seat Sandal, and Hel- vellyn, in succession. In the north, Skiddaw and Saddleback cannot be mistaken, beyond which the blue mountains of Scotland bound the prospect Imme- diately beneath, the spectator will perceive Sty Head Tarn. Great End being on the right, conceals Stone- thwaite, and a little to the left rises the mighty mass of Great Gable. Borrowdale is visible in patches only, bat the greatest part of Derwentwater is seen. Castle Crag is conspicuous in the valley. Mosedale, between Yewbarrow and Kirkfell, has the appearance of an immense coom. In the north-west are a series of hills, the principal of which are, Causey Pike, Grisedale Pike, Maiden Mawr, Hindscarth, and Eobinson. Then come the Buttermere and Crummock mountains, with Grass- moor conspicuously visible. Nearer are the Pillar, Hay Cock, High Stile, and Red Pike. "Westward, the eye sinks into the depths of "Wastdale, round which are piled Kirkfell, Yewbarrow, Seatallan, and Buckbarrow ; but the hamlet of "Wastdale Head is hidden by Lingmell. The Irish Sea bounds the whole western horizon ; and over the extremity of the vale of "Wastwater the Isle of Man can be sometimes perceived. 138 WASTDALE HEAD TO BUTTERMERE. BY PASSES OP BLACK SAIL AND SCARP GAP. This is the most fatiguing part of the excursion, and the way is so perplexing, that although the hardy pedestrian with very minute directions might succeed in finding his way over the mountains, yet every one who has crossed them will beware of the danger of the attempt, and of the occasional fatal consequences attend- ing a diversion from the proper path. Having mastered the summit of Black Sail, we have a steep descent into the vale of Gillerthwaite, through which the Lizza meanders to Ennerdale Lake. This river has to be crossed, and it is to be hoped that it is not flooded, as there have been instances of tourists being obliged to turn back in consequence of its being impassable. We now ascend Scarf Gap, the view from which cannot fail to please the most fastidious eye. It commands the whole of the vale and part of the lake. This lake is not quite so much visited on account of being rather less accessible. When viewed from near its foot and the inn, it presents a wild and majestic scene. The descent to Gatescarth and the walk along the lake side to Buttermere Inn complete this pedestrian excursion, and the tourist, having directed the vehicle to be in waiting for him here, may return by it to Keswick. 139 SKIDDAW. ITS ASCENT FROM KESWICK. As this mountain stands at the head of an extensive valley, apart from the adjacent eminences, its huge bulk and great height are more strikingly apparent than in Scawfell or Helvellyn, although of inferior altitude to either of them. It is extremely easy of access, so much so, that ladies may ride on horseback from Keswick to the summit, a distance of six miles. According to the Government surveyors, its height is 3058 feet above the sea; upon one part of it granite is to be found, but the great mass of this mountain, as well as of Saddle- back, is composed of a dark schistose stone. It is seldom ascended from any other place but Keswick, at which town everything necessary for the expedition will be furnished. The Penrith road must be pursued for half a mile, to a bridge which spans the Greta just beyond the turnpike-gate. Crossing the bridge, the road passes Greta Bank House, and opposite the cottages adjoining take the road on the left which skirts Latrigg, at an elevation sufficient to command delightful views of Keswick vales. The main road which skirts Latrigg on the other side takes one very much out of the way. "This road," says Green, "is unequalled for scenic beauty in the environs of Keswick." After leaving the bridge, a small plantation is traversed in front of Greta Bank, after which the road to be taken turns to the right Proceeding onwards a few yards only, another road leading through a gate turns abruptly to the left by the side of a fence, which is followed for a distance of three-quarters of a mile, to a hollow at the foot of the steepest hill on the ascent, having on the right a deep ravine, down which a transparent stream is seen falling. 140 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. The path then holds along for about a mile by the side of a wall, which it crosses, and proceeds in a direct line forward, whilst the wall diverges to the right. A large and barren plain, called Skiddaw Forest, in the middle of which is a spring of beautifully clear water, is then traversed for a mile, leaving a double-pointed elevation, called Skiddaw Low Man, the highest summit on the left ; Skiddaw Man will then be ascended. Many persons prefer the views which they obtain during the ascent to that from the summit, and reason- ably so, if beauty of scenery be sought after ; for a view will always be indistinct in proportion as it is extensive. Nothing can exceed the charming appearance of the valley and town of Keswick, of Derwentwater and its surrounding eminences, when beheld from the moun- tain's side ; the lake, especially, with its bays and islands, is nowhere seen to such advantage. The follow- ing are the principal objects visible from the summit : In the north, beyond the lowlands of Cumberland, in which Carlisle and its Cathedral are perceived, the Solway Firth is seen, on the farther side of which the Scottish mountains are displayed in fine arrangement. Criffell* is seen over Skiddaw Far Man, and the Moffat and Cheviot Hills stretch away to. the right. Dumfries is visible at the mouth of the firth. In the north-west, over High -Pike and Long Brow, the vale and town of Penrith are beheld, with Cross Fell (2901 feet) beyond. Directly east is the rival summit of Saddleback, sepa- rated by the tract called Skiddaw Forest from the mountain on which the spectator is standing. Hel- vellyn is in the south-east ; beyond, Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, is dimly descried. Between Helvellyn and Saddleback, Place Fell, at the head of Ulleswater, and High Street, are visible. When the atmosphere is clear * " Huge differs hoary top ascends By Skiddaw seen." WORDSWORTH. 142 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Lancaster Castle may be seen in the south-east. Der- wentwater is not comprehended in the view from the Highest Man, being concealed by some of the other eminences of Skiddaw, but from the Third Man a per- fect bird's-eye prospect of that lake is obtained. " In the south," says Green, in his Guide, " there is a suc- cession of five several ranges of mountains seen out- topping each other, from a stripe of the lovely valley to the highest Pikes. Grisedale in one grand line stretches from the inclosures at Braithwaite to its Pike, succeeded in the second range by Barrow Stile End, and Outerside. Rising from the fields of Newlands, the third range commences with Rolling End, ascend- ing from which are Causey Pike, Scar Crag, Top Sail, 111 Crags, and Grasmoor the latter lessening the Pike of Grisedale by appearing over its top. The fourth line in this wild combination is composed of Cat Bells, Maiden-moor, Dalehead, Hindsgarth, Robinson, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. The fifth and last is that sublime chain of summits extending on the south from Coniston to Ennerdale on the north; amongst these the High Pike or Man, standing towering over the rest, has on the left, Great End Hanging Knott, Bow Fell, and the Fells of Coniston ; on the right, Lingmell Crags, Great Gable, Kirk Fell, Black Sail, the Pillar, the Steeple, and the Haycock, with Yewbarrow, and part of the Screes through the pass at Black Sail. On the right of Grisedale Pike and Hobcarten Crag is Low Fell, succeeded by Whinfield Fell, over which, in a clear atmosphere, may be observed more than the northern half of the Isle of Man ; and on a mistless sunny evening, even Ireland may be seen. The north- west end or foot of Bassenthwaite Water is here seen, the head being obscured by Long Side." Workington can be seen at the mouth of the Derwent in the west, and more to the north the coast towns of Maryport and BLENCATHARA OR SADDLEBACK. 143 ADonby. The town and castle of Cockermouth are per- ceived over the extremity of Bassenthwaite Lake, seated on the Cocker. Such is an outline of this wonderful panorama, which may be fitly closed with Wordsworth's fine sonnet : "Pelion and Ossa flourish side by side, Together in immortal books enroll'd ; His ancient dower Olympus hatb not sold, And that aspiring hill, which did divide Into two ample horns his forehead wide, Shines with poetic radiance as of old ; While not an English mountain we behold By the celestial Muses glorified. Yet round our eea-girt shore they rise in crowds ; What was the great Parnassus' self to thee, Mount Skiddaw? In its natural sovereignty, Our British hill is nobler far, he shrouds His double front among Atlantic clouds, And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly."* BLENCATHAEA, OE SADDLEBACK. Blencathara is the ancient name of this mountain, which now-a-days is more usually termed Saddleback, an appellation acquired from its shape when viewed from, the neighbourhood of Penrith. None who take the trouble to scale its height ever express disappoint- ment ; but the contiguity of Skiddaw, a too attractive rival, intercepts the great tide of tourists. It is com- * Even the city-loving Elia was enraptured with Skiddaw and its views. " O ! its fine black head," thus he writes in one of his letters, " and the bleak air a-top of it, with a prospect of mountains all about and about, making you giddy ; and then Scotland afar off, and the border countries so famous in song and ballad ! It was a day that will stand out like a moun- tain, I am sure, in my life ! " Michael Drayton alludes in one of his poems to "snow-crowned Skiddaw's lofty cliffs;" and a poet of later years, John Keats, compares an earnest gazer to one who would " Prom off old Skiddaw's top, when fog conceals His rugged forehead in a mantle pale, With an eye guess towards some pleasant vale. Descry a favourite hamlet faint and far." 144 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. posed of a rock similar to Skiddaw, and its altitude is 2847 feet. The ascent may be commenced at the village of Threlkeld, on the Penrith and Keswick road, and the direction to be observed will be pointed out by any of the villagers. A stone quarry forms one point in. the ascent (from which place the hills of Newlands, Butter- mere and Crummock, are seen over the Greta to great advantage), whilst another is Knott Crag, a sharp eleva- tion, whence a glimpse of the sea near Ulverston is caught between Helvellyn and Steel Fell. Another way of reaching the summit, and perhaps the best, is to leave the Hesket-new- Market road for the hill-side, about a quarter of a mile beyond the White Horse, a small road-side inn. The path is by the side of a dash- ing stream, which flows from Threlkeld Tarn, the greatest depth of which is not more than twenty feet. Exaggerating travellers have described this tarn as an abyss of waters upon which the sun never shines, and wherein the stars of heaven may be seen at noonday. Sir Walter Scott alludes to this fable in these lines of the Bridal of Triermain : " Above her solitary track Rose Glaramara's ridgy back Amid whose yawning gulfs the sun Cast umber'd radiance red and dun; Though never sun-beam could discern The surface of that sable tarn, In whose black mirror you may spy The stars while noon-tide lights the sky."* In Bowscale Tarn, another sheet of water, on the same group of mountains, tradition asserts that two im- mortal fish have their abode. The homage of these fish is amongst the acknowledgments which are stated by the Minstrel, in his "Song at the feast of Brougham Castle," * Throughout this poem, Sir Walter Scott unaccountably terms the mountain we are now describing Glaramara ; whereas that hill lies some miles above the head of Derwentwater. BLENCATHARA, OB SADDLEBACK. 145 to have been paid to the secret power of the good Lord Clifford, when a shepherd boy in adversity " And both the undying fish that swim In Bowscale Tarn, did wait on him ; The pair were servants of his eye In their immortality ; They moved about in open sight, To and fro for his delight."* From Threlkeld (or Scales) Tarn the wanderer pro- ceeds to climb the brow of the bill ; and when Line- thwaite Fell, the most elevated point, is reached, he stands upon that portion which is conspicuous from Matterdale and St. John's Vale. Hall Fell, a stupen- dous buttress of pyramidal shape, is seen to project for- ward, the ravines almost sawing it off from the rest of the mountain. On the south and east Blencathara commands finer views than Skiddaw, but in other directions the pros- pects are more limited. Far below lies the village of Threlkeld, at the foot of Hall Fell, with a patch of cul- tivated ground extending from it into St. John's Vale. Beyond, there is a peep of Thirlmere, with Steel Fell at its head ; and further still are the Fells of Coniston, with a stripe of sea on their left. The huge mass of Helvellyn forces itself upon the attention ; its neigh- bours, St. Sunday's Crag and Fairfield, will be easily made out. The hills encircling Ambleside, Troutbeck, and Hawes Water, are descried in the distance. More to the left, but nearer the spectator, the two conical Mell Fells are readily distinguished. "With the assis- * From some lines of Martial (L. rv. 30), we learn that there were some fishes in a lake at Baiae in Campania consecrated to Domitian, and, like the undying ones of Bowscale Tarn, they knew their master : " Sacris piscibus hse natantur undse, Qui norunt dominum, manumque lambunt ; et ad magistri Vocem quisque sui venit citatus." L 146 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. tance of a glass, the castles of Lowther, Dacre, and Brougham can be perceived ; Penrith, backed by Cross Fell, does not require so much trouble. In the vast plain which extends northward, there stands the city of Carlisle, a view of which is obtained between Atkinson's Man and Carrock Fell Solway Firth then catches the eye, until Skiddaw closes the view for many a league. Between Longscale Fell and Grisedale Pike the sea is again visible, with part of the country about White- haven. In this direction a lofty process of Blencathara himself is prominent, and on the left succeeds an assem- blage of " craggy regions and chaotic wilds," including the Derwentwater, Borrowdale Buttermere, andWast- \vater ranges. Derwentwater forms a very pleasing object in the scene. When the tourist has gazed his fill upon these prospects, he may commence his return to Keswick, by traversing the brow of the hill (not omitting to notice the varied conformation of the sides), and thus passing the eminences called Lilefell, Priest- man, and Knott Crag, whence the descent to Threlkeld is soon made. Nevertheless, he has the option of de- scending in a south-westerly direction to the Glendera- terra. A wooden bridge will conduct him across that stream, and he can then traverse Brundholm Wood by a road which commands delightful views of the sinuous Greta, and further on, of Derwentwater and the circum- jacent hills. We may here appropiately introduce some lines from the pen of S. T. Coleridge, entitled. A THOUGHT SUGGESTED BY A VIEW OF SADDLEBACK. "On stern Blencathra's perilous height The winds are tyrannous and strong ; And flashing forth unsteady light From stern Blencathra's skyey height, How loud the torrents throng ! ULLESWATER. 147 Beneath the moon in gentle weather, They bind the earth and sky together ; But oh ! the sky and all its forms how quiet, The things that seek the earth, how full of noise and riet ! " ULLSWATER which has been compared with the Swiss Lucerne, is nine miles in length, and is partitioned by the moun- tains into three separate chambers, or reaches, as they are locally termed ; its extreme width is about three- quarters of a mile. The first reach, commencing at the foot is terminated on the left by Hallin Fell, which stretches forward to a promontory, from the opposite side, called Skelly Neb, upon which stands Mr. Mar- shall's house, Halsteads ; the middle and longest reach is closed in by Birk Fell on the left, and on the right by Sty barrow Crag, far away above which "the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn" rises into thin air; the little island called House Holm spots the water exactly at the termination of this section of the lake. The highest reach is the smallest and narrowest, but the mingled grandeur and beauty which surround it are beyond the power of the liveliest imagination to depict. Four or five islands dimple the surface, and by their diminutive size impress more deeply upon the beholder the vastness of the hills which tower above them ; whilst Stybarrow Crag and other offshoots from Hel- vellyn on one side, Birk Fell and Place Fell on the other, springing from the lake's margin almost at one bound shut in this paradise. " Abrupt and sheer the mountains sink At once upon the level brink." Ullswater is generally viewed by tourists when travelling from Ambleside to Penrith, as the road 148 GUIDE TO THE LAKEE. between the two places passes along the northern shore. Since, however, it is a general rule that lake scenery, in order to be seen to advantage, should be visited in a direction opposite to that in which the waters flow, it would be better to invert this order of approach. Two roads conduct from Penrith to Pooley Bridge, a hamlet at the foot of the lake, about six miles distant, both of which lead through a country abounding in picturesque scenery. One leaves the Keswick road two miles and a-half from Penrith, and passing through Mr. Hassell's park at Dalemain, reaches Ulleswater three- quarters of a mile above Pooley Bridge. The other road leads along the Shap road to Eamont Bridge, shortly before reaching which, Carleton Hall is seen on the left. After crossing the bridge by which West- moreland is entered, the first road on the right must be taken. In the angle of the field on the left at this deviation, is King Arthur's Eound Table, and a little beyond on the right is Mayborough, both of which antique remains have been previously noticed. At Yawnwath, about two miles from Penrith, are the remains of an ancient hall, formerly one of the "noble houses" of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld. We next pass through Tirrel and Barton. POOLEY BEIDGE, [Hotel : The Sun, excellent and moderate. Six miles from Penrith. Steamer from Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, one hour's sail]. ' in addition to its advantageous position on Ullswater, is an excellent point from which to visit Lowther Castle and Hawes Water. The Eamont is here crossed by a bridge.* A cross (now removed) in the village was erected * About half a mile from Pooley, on the east side of the lake, is Eusemero Villa, which was the residence of Thomas Clarkson, who so materially 150 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. by one of the Dacres, who, marrying Anne Fitzroy, an illegitimate daughter of Charles II., was created Earl of Sussex. The remains of Dacre Castle are but, a few miles distant. On the west of the village is a steep and conical hill clothed with wood, called Dunmallet, upon which there are still the vestiges of a Roman fortification. Winding walks lead to the summit, from which the view is now obscured by trees. From Pooley Bridge to Patterdale, a distance of ten miles, the road traverses the west margin of Ulleswater. Leaving Pooley Bridge by the high road, "Waterfoot is passed on the right, about a mile from the bridge, and Kamspeck Lodge on the left, about two miles from the same place ; a little further is the village of Water- millock. So far the lake has lain amongst somewhat tame scenery, but here promise is given of its coming grandeur. The wood at the foot of Hallin Fell, on the other shore, has a pleasing effect. A mile from Hal- steads, Gowbarrow Park is entered ; this park, which contains upwards of a thousand acres, must attract the attention of the most careless observer, by its "grace of forest charms decayed," and innumerable sylvan groups of great beauty still remain, round which herds of deer will be seen quietly feeding. It belongs to Henry Howard, Esq. of Greystock Castle, to whom it was devised by the Duke of Norfolk, his uncle. The Duke's predecessor erected upon an eminence in the park a hunting-box in the castellated style, called Lyulph's Tower, commanding a splendid view of the lake. About five and a half miles from Pooley Bridge, and close to the Tower, a stream is crossed by a small bridge, a mile above which, in a rocky dell, is AIREY assisted in removing the slave trade from the English nation. It was pur- chased in 1824 from the Earl of Lonsdale by the late J. C. Bristow, Esq., by whom it was much enlarged and beautified, and is now the property ol Captain John William Bristow, in the service of the East India Company. AIREY FORCE (ULLSWATEJEl). 152 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. FORCE, a waterfall of considerable volume. Two wooden bridges are thrown from bank to bank, one above, the other below the fall Huge rocks in every variety of form hem in a stream, here in a state of foaming agitation, there a dark pool, whilst over-arching trees and shrubs exclude the glare of day, and cast a solemnity of beauty over the scene, which, without exception, is the finest of its kind in the lake district.* f^T Application to view Airey Force may be made ut the domestic offices, Lyulph's Tower. * This glen is the scene of Wordsworth's Somnambulist verses, in which ne narrates a melancholy incident to the following effect : In a castle which occupied the site of Lyulph's Tower, there dwelt, in days long passed away, a fair damoselle, the wooed of many suitors. Sir Eglamore, the knight of her choice, was in duty bound to prove his knightly worth by seeking and accomplishing deeds of high emprize in dis- tant lands. He sailed to other shores, and month after month disappeared without bringing tidings of either his welfare or return. The neglected Emma fell into a bewildered state of mind, her sleep became infected with his image, and sometimes in dreams she threaded her way to the holly bower on Airey stream, where she last parted from her errant lover. One evening, when she had betaken herself thither, her faculties wrapped in sleep, Sir Eglamore unexpectedly approached the castle and perceived her to his great astonishment ; upon advancing, she awoke, and fell with the suddenness of the shock into the stream, from which she was rescued by the knight only in time to hear her dying expression of belief in his con- stancy. Straightway he built himself a cell in the glen, and spent the remainder of his days as an anchorite. We subjoin the first and last stanza of the poem, which forms a beautiful companion to Schiller's " Knight of Toggenburg : " " List ye who pass by Lyulph's Tower At eve ; how softly then Doth Aira Force, that torrent hoarse, Speak from the woody glen ! Fit music for a solemn vale ! And holier seems the ground, To him who catches on the gale The spirit of a mournful tale Embodied in the sound. ULLSWATER. Statute Mile PATTERDALE. 153 Shortly after leaving the park, the road through Matter- dale to Keswick strikes off. * Glencoin Beck, issuing from Linking Dale Head runs under the road a mile beyond Airey Bridge, and forms the line of demarcation between Cumberland and Westmoreland. The highest reach of the lake is now unfolded to the view. The road soon afterwards passes under Stybarrow Crag, at which point it has been much widened formerly it was a narrow path between the steep mountain and the water's edge. An ancestor of the Mounseys of Goldrill Cottage acquired the title of King of Patterdale, from having successfully repulsed a body of Scotch moss- troopers at this place, with the aid of a few villagers. His palatial residence was at that time Patterdale Hall ; but a few years ago the patrimonial estate was sold to Mr. Marshall of Leeds. " The rude mountains above," says Mrs. Eadcliffe, after sketching the view from an elevation opposite the Birk Fell promontory, " almost seem to have fallen back from the shore to admit this landscape within their hollow bosom, and then bending abruptly, appear, like Milton's Adam viewing the sleeping Eve, to hang over it enamoured." After crossing the brook from Glenridding, Glenridding House (Eev. Mr. Askew) is on the left ; and Patterdale Hall is passed on the right. " Wild stream of Aira, hold thy course, Nor fear memorial lays, Where clouds that spread in solemn shade Are edged with golden rays ! Dear art thou to the light of heaven, Though minister of sorrow ; Sweet is thy voice at pensive even ; And thou in lover's heart forgiven Shalt take thy place with Yarrow !" * Those going to Keswick by stage coach, change coaches here. 154 PATTEEDALE. [Bownass's Ullswatcr Hotels-excellent hotel, beautifully situated on the banks of the lake, near the Steamboat Pier ; Brownrigg's Queen's Hotel, about 300 yards from lake. Boats on the lake, Is. per hour. Ascent of Helvellyn from Patterdale occupies nearly two hours by Glen- ridding lead-mines ; bridle-road to the top ; ponies, 5s. ; guide, 5s. Coach twice daily to and from Troutbeck Station (S miles), in con- nection with trains from Keswick and Penrith. Steamer to Pooley Bridge, one hour's sail]. A few days may be pleasantly spent at this place investigating the beauties of the neighbourhood ; for in addition to the beaux points de vue presently noticed, there are innumerable nooks and shy recesses in the dells and by the lake, " Where flow'rets blow, and whispering Naiads dwell ;"~ which the leisurely wanderer only is enabled to admire. The valley, from Gowbarrow Park upwards, abounds in the most luxuriant variety of vegetation, combining with the mountainous ranges to form some of the grandest scenes that eye can behold. An afternoon may be advantageously employed in visiting the islands, of which there are four : House Holm, standing at the mouth of the highest reach, Moss Holm, Middle Holm, and Cherry Holm ; and the boat may be taken to the foot of a broad rock overhanging the water, a little beyond the Berk Fell promontory, from the grassy summit of which the views of the upper and middle reaches are extremely fine. Place Fell Quarry, half a mile from the inn, is a good station for viewing the lake ; and the walk to Blowick, two farm-houses under Place Fell, affords many charming prospects. The slate quarry at Blowick has been selected as a station for an outline etching. Deepdale, Brothers * HARTLEY COLERIDGE. 156 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Water, and Hartsope, should be visited for many exquisite scenes. The churchyard of the old church of Patterdale contains a yew-tree of remarkable size. BROTHERS WATER is a large tarn, lying in a huge niche, taking its name from the sad circumstance of two brothers having lost their lives in it an accident which has twice occurred. The road to Ambleside, by Kirkstone, passes along its eastern margin. A ramble of five or six miles may be taken into the retired dis- trict of Martindale, where Mr. Hasell has a herd of that rare animal the red deer ; nor would the hardy pedes- trian have much difficulty in making his way over the fells to Hawes Water. The summits of Helvellyn and High Street may be visited, both of which will repay the visitor for the toil he must necessarily incur by the extensive views they command. The angler will be glad to learn that Hayes Water and Angle Tarn, two sheets of water in the neighbourhood, will afford him ample amusement in his favourite pursuit. Instead of making a circuit by Ambleside in order to reach Grasmere, the pedestrian is informed that he may make a short cut through the glen of GEISEDALE. The road leaves Patterdale at Grisedale Bridge, and passes, for a short distance, along a wood on the banks of the stream. Amongst the trees are some hollies of unusual size. Half-way up the vale there are some lead mines under Striding Edge, but the path to be taken keeps on the left bank of the stream for some time, passing underneath St. Sunday's Crag. Having crossed the beck, it recrosses it just where it issues from a tarn that lies in a hollow under the east flank of Seat Sandal. Between that mountain and Helvellyn there is a de- pression through which the mountains about Newlands Vale are visible. From a point near Grisedale Tarn a small portion of Ulleswater, which has been hitherto invisible, is seen, and Birkfell shoots pyramidically PATTERDALE TO AMBLESIDE. 157 upwards. The ascent of Helvellyn is sometimes com- menced near the foot of the tarn, which the tourist should be careful to keep on his right. On passing through a little gate in a wall that runs along the ridge, the descent into Grasmere begins. The view from the Grasmere side of Grisedale Pass is much more exten- sive than that from the other side. It embraces the Coniston Fell range, Langdale Pikes, Bowfell, and Scawfell. The track joins the main valley at a point opposite Helm Crag. The distance from Patterdale to Grasmere, village to village, is about seven miles. PATTERDALE TO AMBLESIDE, BY KIRKSTONE PASS. A few yards beyond the Bridge which crosses the stream from Brothers Water, two miles from Patterdale, and on the road to Ambleside, there is a grand pano- rama of mountains to be seen. !Near at hand is the extreme link in the Place Fell chain ; Kidsty Pike is seen through an opening, but Grey Crag excludes a sight of High Street ; Dodd, with sloping sides like the roof of a house, and Codale Crags, stand on the east of Kirkstone Pass, to the west of which are the red Screes and Dodd Bield. Kaystone occupies a position to the east of a glen, at the top of which are some tremendous precipices, called Dow Crags. Low -wood, richly clothed with trees, is seen reflected on Brothers "Water, and terminates this striking range. Ambleside is ten miles from Patterdale, the road leading over the steep pass of Kirkstone, so called, it is supposed, from a church-like block of stone on the west of the path near the summit. The retrospective views in ascending are fine. Brothers Water is seen far below, and Place Fell closes in the distance. There is a public house, bearing 158 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. the sign of " The Traveller's Inn," on the highest part of the pass (1481 feet). Tt has been ascertained that this building stands seventy-eight feet higher than any other habitation in England. In building it, a stone sepulchre resembling a coffin, apparently very ancient, was found a few inches below the surface of the earth. It contained some bones and a coin. Just at this point the precipice called Eed Screes overhangs the way, and the road to Troutbeck deviates to the left. In descend- ing, "Windermere and the valley of Ambleside are spread out like a map before the spectator. The hill in front is "Wansfell Pike. HELVELLYN. This mountain is more widely known by name than any other amongst the lakes, partly from its easiness of access, and its proximity to a turnpike road, over which coaches pass daily within a mile and a half of the summit, and partly in connection with a melancholy accident which some years ago befell a stranger upon it, whose fate the verses of Wordsworth and Scott have contributed to make universally lamented. It stands the highest of a long chain of hills, at the angle formed by the vales of Grasmere, Legberthwaite, and Patterdale, about half-way between Keswick and Ambleside. From its central position and great altitude, it commands an extensive map-like view of the whole lake district, no fewer than six lakes being visible from its summit, whilst the circumjacent mountains present themselves in fine arrangement. Its height is 3118 feet above the level of the sea, being ninety feet lower than Scawfell Pike, and sixty feet higher than Skid- daw, making it the third highest peak in the district. Its HELVELLYN. 159 geological structure is slate in one part, and in another a flinty porphyry. The ascent of Helvellyn can be effected from severa). quarters. Patterdale, Grasmere, "Wythburn. and Legberthwaite, severally afford advantageous points for the commencement of the escalade ; from the two latter, however, it is most usually begun. It may be well, perhaps, to mention that ponies can be taken to the summit from all these places, only they are not kept at Legberthwaite. The ascent from Wythburn, though the shortest, is the steepest A guide can be procured at the little inn which stands near the chapel, but as the path is easily discovered without his assist- ance, many persons will feel inclined to dispense with this restraint upon their motions and conversation. The path, which begins to ascend almost at the inn door, will be pointed out by the people of the inn. A spring called Brownrigg's "Well, issuing from the ground, within three hundred yards of the summit, sends out a stream, which, after rushing violently down the mountain's side, crosses the highway 200 or 300 yards from the Nag's Head at "Wythburn. By keeping the direction of this stream, without tracing its windings, the stranger may rely upon being safely guided, for Helvellyn Man is a little to the left, at the distance we have mentioned, above its source. In the ascent a small sheet of water called Harrop Tarn will be seen on a shelf of rock under Tarn Crag, a lofty precipice on the opposite side of the receding valley. The scars, seams, and ravines, " the history of forgotten storms On the blank folds inscribed of drear Helvellyn."* which indent the mountain on all sides, strikingly * HARTLEY COLERIDGE. 160 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. exemplify the possible power of those elements whose ordinary effects are trivial and unnoticed. From Patterdale the glens of Grisedale and Glen- ridding may be either of them used as approaches to Helvellyn. If no guide be taken, the last-mentioned glen is to be preferred, as the stream flowing through it, which has its rise in the Red Tarn, will form a use- ful companion up the mountain. This tarn lies 600 feet immediately below the highest elevation, fenced in on the south-east by a ridge of rock called Striding Edge, and on the north-west by a similar barrier, called Swirrel Edge. Catchedecam, or Catstycam, the ter- mination of the latter, must be ascended, and the ridge crossed, in order to attain the object of the climber's ambition. Although the path along this ridge may be somewhat startling, there is no real danger to be apprehended. Both of these edges are great curiosities, and Striding Edge is the most remark- able. It was at this spot that Charles Gough met with the accident which caused his death.* The edge * This unfortunate " young lover of nature " attempted to cross Helvel- lyn from Patterdale, one day in the spring of 1805, after a fall of snow had partially concealed the path, and rendered it dangerous. It could never be ascertained whether he was killed by his fall, or perished from hunger. Let us hope that death came with friendly care to shorten sufferings that might have been yet more awful Three months elapsed before the body was found, and then it was attended by a faithful dog which Mr. Gough had with him at the time of the accident " This dog had been through three months' space A dweller in that savage place ; Yes proof was plain, that since the day On which the traveller thus had died, The dog had watch'd about the spot Or by his master's side : How nourish'd there through such long time, He knows, who gave that love sublime, And gave that strength of feeling great Above all human estimate." Thus is this striking instance of brute fidelity commemorated by Words- HELVELLYN. 161 being passed, little exertion is required to place tlie weary pedestrian by the side of Helvellyn Man as the pile of stones on the summit is called thence to gaze on the wonderful display of mountains and lakei which everywhere surround him. This Man, and that on a lower elevation to the north, form the separating landmarks between Cumberland and Westmoreland. And now as to the view, and the multitudinous objects within its range : Northwards, Keppel Cove Tarn is perceived, having on the right Catchedecam. Beyond the extremity of the tarn, Saddleback rears its huge form, a little to the left of which is Skiddaw. Between the two, and in the north-west, a portion of the Solway Firth is descried, and the extreme distance is bounded by the Scottish mountains. Turning eastwards, Eed Tarn, below its "huge nameless rock," lies between Swirrel Edge on the left and Striding Edge on the right. Beyond is the crooked form of Ulleswater, on the left margin of which are Gowbarrow Park and Stybarrow Crag; whilst the right is bounded by the dwindled precipices of Place Fell, Birk Fell, and Swarth Fell Halsteads, Mr. Marshall's seat, may be observed, and in the distance Cross Fell stands out against the sky. Angle Tarn is a bright spot beyond Patterdale. Kidsty Pike, High Street, and Hill Bell, are seen in the east over Striding Edge. Kirkstone, Fairfield, and Dollywaggon Pike are more to the south. A portion of Windermere is seen over the last-named hill, whilst in a clear atmosphere Lancaster Castle can be descried beyond Windermere. Esthwaite Water is directly south, and beyond is the sea in the Bay of worth. Scott's lines commencing, " 1 elimb'd the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn," are too well known to be quoted at length. The remains of the stranger now peacefully repose in the place of interment connected with the Friends' Meeting-House at Tirrel, near Penrith. M 162 Morecambe. In the south-west the Old Man stands guarding the right shore of Coniston Lake. On the right is the assemblage of hills termed Coniston Fells, whilst Black Combe, beheld through Wrynose Gap, lifts its dreary summit in the distance. Bowfell and Langdale Pikes are more to the west, having on the right Scawfell Pikes and Scawfell, and still further, Great Gable. The "gorgeous pavilions" of the Butter- mere mountains are pitched in the west, amongst which the Pillar and Grasmoor are prominent. Cat Bells are visible, though Derwentwater, upon the west margin of which they stand, is hidden. Our old acquaintance, Honister Crag, may be seen in a hollow, a little to the left of Cat Bells. From the Lower Man, views of Thirlemere and Bassenthwaite Lake are commanded, both of which are concealed by a breast of the moun- tain from those on the Highest Man. HIGH STREET. The name of this mountain, which forms so con- spicuous an object in this district, is derived from the strange circumstance of a Roman road having been constructed upon it, within a few feet from the highest point. The line of this ancient way can still be dis- cerned upon a slight inspection ; the alternate excava- tion and elevation, and the darker green of the grass, being quite noticeable to the eye when run along it for a little distance. " The massy ways, carried along these heights By Roman perseverance, are destroyed, Or hidden under ground like sleeping worms. WORDSWORTH. This is undoubtedly the highest road ever formed HIGH STREET. 163 in the island, for the altitude of the mountain is 2700 feet. Although no trace of the road can now be found upon the neighbouring height of Lade Pot, there is some ground for supposing that its course led across that hill, since Lad, in the Saxon language, signifies a way. High Street stands at the head of Kentmere, the valley which gave birth to Bernard Gilpin, " the apostle of the north," and near the upper end of Hawes Water. It is of the slate formation, and affords abundance of excellent material for roofing buildings. In former days the shepherds from the adjacent vales annual ly met upon the grassy top of this hill, for the purpose of testing their strength and skill in various athletic exercises. ^Notwithstanding the extensive range of prospect commanded by this mountain, it is not often visited, principally on account of its distance from any com- fortable hotel It is, however, well worthy of being included in the pedestrian's list of rambles ; and not much difficulty will be experienced in ascending, from any of the neighbouring valleys, viz., Patterdale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and Mardale. 1. The road from Patterdale lies through Low Hartsope to Hays Water ; and when the cove, down which a main feeder approaches the tarn, has been ascended, a bend should be made to the left, and an easy climb leads to the summit. 2. From Troutbeck (Low-wood or Bowness having been his night quarters) the stranger must take the road conducting along the east side of the vale toward the Park slate quarries. A sheep-fold, at the foot of a tremendous gully, called Blue Gill, should be aimed at ; and here the hill must be boldly attacked, the ascent being made at a sharp angle, with an inclination to the left. If the proper direction has 164 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. been taken, he will arrive on the mountain's ridge at a place called Scots Bake, the spot where Troutbeck legends assert that a party of rebels, in 1715, attempted to enter the valley. When the climber has surmounted the ridge, he will perceive Thornthwaite Crag, a rocky elevation, before him, and his easiest path lies across its right shoulder. Then making a slight descent, and passing close to a spring of water which gushes out at the side of the hill, and preserves a delicious coolness ("frigm amabile") through the heat of summer, a little more labour along a verdant slope suffices to place the wanderer on the level area which forms the summit. 3. From Kentmere the best path is to pursue the road leading above the west bank of the stream, from the chapel to the slate quarries, under Rainsborrow Crag ; then, proceeding in the same direction for about a mile and a half further, to ascend the hill on the left. When the ridge has been attained, a turn to the right leads the climber to the summit. 4. From Mardale the usual course is to track the stream, which runs through a narrow valley lying between Kidsty Pike and White Eaise. The former eminence must be passed on the left by an easy bend, and the comparatively level summit traversed in a southern direction. This path is much shorter than the others, the distance from Mardale Chapel to the Street being about three miles. Looking in a north-eastern direction, the spectator sees Blea Water below, a dark pear-shaped tarn, enclosed by Blea Water Crag on the one hand, and Long Stile on the other. Mardale Green and Hawes Water are beyond, and Harter Fell is behind Blea Water Crag. In the distance, the country round Penrith and Appleby is visible, backed by a chain of hills, the highest of which is Cross Fell Kidsty Pike HIGH STREET. 165 overhanging Hawes "Water, then blocks up the vieAv ; but turning towards the west, there is an opening over the hills to the level country, and the blue outline of the Scotch border hills terminates the prospect. West, there is the broad bulk of Helvellyn, with Skiddaw peeping from behind on the right. Nearer the fore- ground, Place Fell and Hallin Fell, conceal Ulleswater ; but a view of that lake is obtained from Thornthwaite Crag. Hays Water lies at the foot of Grey Crag, a ridge running from Thornthwaite Crag. Over .this ridge is perceived the hollow in the side of Dow Crag, where Brothers Water lies embedded. On the left, a congeries of mountains is made up of Kirkstone, Scandale Fell, Eydal Head, Fail-field, D. Waggon, Pike, and St. Sunday's Crag. Through depressions in this chain, Langdale Pikes, Scawfell, and other mountains in the far west, are caught. Wetherlam and Coniston Old Man have their stand in front. Black Combe is the last of the hills, and then beyond Thornthwaite Crag, the sea about Broughton comes into sight. Almost the whole length of Windermere is visible, with its islands sufficiently distinct to challenge their names ; Gummer's How is a hill on the eastern shore near the foot. Three elevations near at hand Frossick, Hill Bell, and that part of the Yoke termed Rainsborrow Crag present, on their Kentmere side, a very striking appearance. They seem as if they had been roughly split, and one half of their mass removed. It may be observed, by the way, that the mountains on the lake of Brienz, in Switzerland, have the same singularly shattered appearance when viewed from the Roth-horn. To the left, the sands of Morecambe Bay are descried in the distance ; and a good eye will not fail to.'discover, in a clear day, the Castle and Church of Lancaster, in the same direction. Underbarrow 166 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Scar, a rocky escarpment near Kendal, may be remarked ; arid the situation of Kendal itself is easily made out by noting the two patches of dark plantation upon the hill above that town. Ingleborough dims the sky a little to the right. Having thus enumerated the principal objects in the distance, the spectator's atten- tion is directed to the singular complication of moun- tains, on the highest point of which he has taken his stand. First, there is the series of elevations, dividing the valleys of Troutbeck and Kentmere, beginning at Applethwaite Common, and advancing in a straight line to Thornthwaite Crag. From this Crag, as from a new centre, three several ridges branch off, viz., con- nected by Thresthwaite mouth, a ridge runs on the west of Troutbeck, southward to Wansfell Pike ; a second, comprising Codale Moor and Dodd, extends north- ward ; and lastly, Grey Crag also diverges to the north. Standing at the north-east verge of High Street, the spectator perceives to the north, Kidsty Pike and its dependencies ; north-east, the minor ridge, called Long Stile; and east, the "slack," termed Nan Bield, forming a connection with Harter Fell and the hills running south, between Kentmere and Longsleddale. PENEITH. [Hotels : The Crown ; The George.") Penrith is an ancient market town, seated at the foot of an eminence near the southern verge of the county of Cumberland. It contains between 5000 and 6000 inhabitants, and the appearance of the place is clean and neat. The houses are principally built of the red freestone abounding in the neighbourhood ; from which circumstance it has been suggested that the . /u ws (HAWES & WAP i WATER) I! . 12 7 PENRITH. 167 name of the town is derived Pen and rhudd signify- ing, in the British language, red hill. It lies in the neighbourhood of four rivers, the Petterill, Lowther, Earn on t, and Eden,* within the district called Ingle- wood Forest. When the northern part of England was granted by William the Norman to his follower lianulph de Meschiens, that warrior in his turn par- celled out the grant among his vassals, except the central portion, which he retained. It was described as " a goodly great forest, full of woods, red deer, and fallow deer, wild swine, and all manner of wild beasts, called the Forest of Inglewood." The tract was of a triangular shape, the length of its sides measuring up- wards of twenty miles. When Edward I. had his abode at Carlisle, during his expedition against Scot- land, he was wont to hunt in the forest, and on one occasion killed two hundred head of deer therein. The Scots frequently made themselves masters of it, and were as frequently expelled, until, by an arrange- ment between the kings of the two countries in 1237, it was finally ceded to England. Subsequently it lapsed to the crown, and was conferred by William III. upon the first Earl of Portland. The existence of Penrith * "Some back-friends to this country," says old Fuller, who dearly loved a conceit, "will say that, though Westmoreland has much of Eden (running clear through it), yet hath it little of delight therein." Words- worth's sentiments on this head do not entirely coincide with those of the " back-friends " alluded to ; for the poet, with reference to the name of the river, says that, " Fetch'd from Paradise, the honour came, Rightfully borne; for nature gives thee flowers That has no rivals amongst British bowers; And thy bold rocks are worthy of their fame. Measuring thy course, fair stream ! at length I pay To my life's neighbour dues of neighbourhood ; But I have traced thee on thy winding way With pleasure, sometimes by this thought restrained For things far off we toil, while many a good Not sought, because too near, is never gained." 168 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. may be traced back for many centuries. An army of 30,000 Scots laid it waste in the nineteenth year of Edward III., carrying away many of the inhabitants prisoners; and in the reign of Richard II. the town was again sacked. The manufactures are very trifling, consisting principally of linen goods and some woollen fabrics. The ruins of the Castle, supposed to have been erected by a Neville, Earl of Westmoreland, overlook the town from the west, and, when viewed from the opposite side of the vale, give it a noble appearance. It was for some time the residence of the "subtle, false, and treacherous" Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., and continued in the possession of the Crown till the Revolution, when it was granted, to- gether with the honour of Penrith, to Walter Bentinck, first Earl of Portland. In the contest between Charles I. and the Long Parliament, this castle was seized and dismantled by the adherents of the Commonwealth, and the lead, timber, and other materials, were sold. In 1783, the Duke of Portland sold it, together with the honour of Penrith, including Inglewood Forest, to the Duke of Devonshire ; and the present Duke has lately parted with it. This fortress, constructed of the red stone of the district, which has suffered very much from the action of the weather, appears to have been a perfect quadrangle, with a tower at each corner. The entrance was on the east, and the moat is yet perfectly distinct. The court is now used as a farm- yard, and the southern wall, the least injured portion remaining, is usefully employed as a support for a series of cattle-sheds. We are surprised that no one has endeavoured to soften those rugged walls into beauty, by planting a few roots of ivy around them. It is a common notion that there is a subterraneous PENRITH. 1G9 passage, leading from the ruins to a house in Penrith, called Dockray Hall, about 300 yards distant. The Old Church is a plain structure of red sandstone ; it was partly rebuilt in 1722, and is dedicated to St. Andrew. It was given by Henry L to the Bishop of Carlisle, whose successors are still patrons of the cure. Two large gilt chandeliers hang in the middle aisle, inscribed with these words : " these chandeliers were purchased with the Fifty Guineas given by the most noble William Duke of Portland to his tenants of the honour of Penrith, Avho, under his Grace's encourage- ment, associated in the defence of the government and town of Penrith, against the rebels, in 1745." On one of the walls of this church is the following record of the ravages of a pestilence toward the end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth : -" A.D. M.D.XCVIII. ex gravi peste, quae regionibus hisce incubuit, obierunt apud Penrith 2260, Kendal 2500, Kichmond 2200, Carlisle 1196. " Posteri, Avertite vos et vivite." This memorial on trass has been substituted in the place of a more ancient inscription engraven on stone. In the south windows there are portraits of Richard Duke of York and Cicely Neville, his wife, the parents of Edward IV. and Richard III. In the church-yard is a singular monument of anti- quity, called the Giant's Grave, the origin of which is involved in obscurity, though the most generally received opinion is, that it indicates the burial place of Owen Csesarius, who was "sole King of rocky Cumber- land" in the time of Ida. It consists of two stone pillars, fourteen feet in height, standing about the same distance apart, with four large slabs inserted edgeways in the ground between them. The pillars taper gradu- ally from near the bottom, where they are two feet 170 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. in girth, to the top, which appears, in both cases, to have once borne either a cross or the representation of a human head. The upper part is covered with Eunic or other unintelligible carvings. Not far distant is another upright stone, between four and five feet in height, called the Giants Thumb, rudely representing a cross, by means of two perforations at its upper end. Lockhart states that Sir Walter Scott never omitted visiting these antique remains when he passed through Penrith. A new church has recently been erected at the base of the Beacon Hill, in the Gothic Perpendi- cular style of architecture, which, from the picturesque- ness of its natural situation, and the taste displayed in its structure, possesses considerable attraction for the passing observer. There are many seats of the nobility and gentry in the neighbour- hood of Penrith. The more important are Carleton Hall (John Cowper, Esq.), one mile south-east; Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham), one and a half miles south-east; Skirsgill House (L. Dent, Esq.), one mile south-west; Dalemain (E. W. Hasell, Esq.), three and a half miles south-west; Lowther Castle (the Earl of Lonsdale), four miles south; Greystock Castle (Henry Howard, Esq.), four and a half miles west- north-west ; Eden Hall (Sir George Musgrave, Bart.), four miles east ; Button Hall (Sir F. F. Vane, Bart.), five miles north-west-by-north ; Halsteads (John Marshall, Esq.), seven and a half miles south-west. Some of these will hereafter receive more particular mention. WALKS AND EXCUKSIONS FKOM PENKITH. On the heights to the north of the town is a square stone building, called The Beacon, well placed for giving alarm in time of danger. From this elevation the views are at once extensive and delightfully picturesque : Helvellyn, with Ulleswater at its foot, Skiddaw and Saddleback, with their attendant mountains; Crossfell* * This liill is said to have been formerly designated Fiend's Fell, from the common belief that evil spirits had their haunt upon it, until St. WALKS AND EXCURSIONS FROM PENRITH. 171 (2928 feet high.) and the eastern chain of hills stretch- ing from Stanemoor in Yorkshire, through Westmore- land and Cumberland into Scotland, being within the boundary of the prospect. Carlisle Cathedral can be pointed out, and beyond are the dusky forms of the Scottish Border Highlands. The hill upon which the beacon-tower stands, is one of those whereon fires were lighted in former times, when animosities ran high between the English and the Scotch, to give warning of the approach of an enemy. A fiery chain of communication extended from the Border, northwards, as far as Edinburgh, and southwards into Lancashire. An act of the Scottish Parliament was passed in 1455, to direct, that one bale should signify the approach of the English in any manner ; two bales that they were coming indeed ; four bales that they were unusually strong. Sir Walter Scott, in his lay of the Last Minstrel, has given a vivid description of the beacons blazing through the gloom like ominous comets, and startling the night : "A score of fires From height, and hill, and cliff were seen, Each with warlike tidings fraught, Each from each the signal caught ; Each after each they glanced to sight As stars arise upon the night." The antiquities in the neighbourhood of Penrith are very numerous and interesting. We propose describing the principal ones with some minuteness, and the tourist will derive assistance from the chart of Ulleswater in discovering his way to them. We shall first direct his attention to the remains of Augustine erected a Cross and built an altar on the summit, where he offered the holy eucharist, and thus countercharmed the demons. Since that time it has borne the name of Cross Fell, and the neighbourhood style a heap of stones lying there, " Altar upon Cross Fell." !72 BROUGHAM CASTLE. " The lonely turret, shatter"d and outworn, Stands venerably proud ; too proud to mourn Its long-lost grandeur." KEATS. These ruins occupy a striking situation, near the junction of the Earaont and Lowther, one mile and three quarters from Penrith, on the right of the Appleby road. They are believed to stand on the site of the Roman station Broconiacum ; antiquaries affirming that the vallum of an encampment can still be traced, and it is certain that several altars and coins have been found here. This castle was one of the strongholds of the great Barons of the Border, in times when a stout for- tress was of much greater consequence than at this day. Though time and man have laid hands, by no means leniently, upon this once magnificent structure, there is still an air of decayed majesty about it which is highly impressive. It appears to have consisted of three principal masses, which, with connecting walls enclosed an extensive court-yard. The grand approach was made from the east, and entrance to the interior was gained by means of archways elaborately defended by a series of portcullises, and carried underneath the great tower, which contained the finest chambers in the whole pile. Three separate staircases lead up this tower, which is now laid open from top to bottom, and several recessed windows are exhibited to view. Two grotesque heads, probably of Roman cutting, look from the exterior wall into the court. The chapel is indicated in the north-east cluster of buildings by arched niches, and the remains of two mullioned windows. The whole building is most artfully per- BROUGHAM CASTLE. 173 forated by winding passages in the thickness of the wall leading from loophole to loophole. Notwith- standing the tottering appearance of the edifice, a steady head may yet ascend the highest turret, and descry a fine expanse of country from the elevation. The earliest recorded owner of the Castle was John de Veteripont, from whose family it passed by marriage into the hands of the Cliffords and Tuftons successively. It is now the property of the Earl of Thanet a Tufton. Extensive additions were made to it by the first Roger de Clifford, and the ambiguous inscription, " This made Roger," was lately to be deciphered over the inner gateway. In 1412, whilst in the possession of the Clifford family, it was attacked and laid waste by the Scots. In 1617, the Earl of Cumberland, another Clifford, feasted James I. within its walls, on his return from Scotland.* In 1651, having fallen into decay, it was thoroughly repaired by the celebrated Lady Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset, Pembroke, and Mont- gomery, who also restored the Castles of Skipton, in Pendragon, Brough, and Appleby; all of them, except Skipton, in Westmoreland. In these reparations of the old waste places she spent 40,000 an immense sum in those days. Some few years after the Countess's death, the Earl of Thanet, her grandson, barbarously demolished three of the castles, selling the timber and materials. " We will hope," says Wordsworth, " that * Of this entertainment, which was of the most magnificent description, there is a curious memorial still in existence, viz., a folio volume, printed in 1618, entitled "The Ayres that were sung and played at Brougham Castle in Westmorland, in the King's Entertainment, given by the Right Honorable the Earle of Cumberland, and his Right Noble Sonne the Lord Cliflbrde. Composed by Mr. George Mason and Mr. John Earsden." The Countess of Pembroke records, that the King upon this occasion was lodged in the room where her father was born and her mother died. This royal visit took place on the 6th of August 1617. The next night his Majesty slept at Appleby Castle, another of the Earl's seats. 174 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. when this order was issued, the Earl had not consulted the text of Isaiah, 58th chap. 12th verse, to which the inscription placed over the gate of Pendragon Castle by the Countess, at the time she repaired that structure, refers the reader. ' And they that shall be of thee shall build the old waste places ; thou shall raise up the foundations of many generations, and thou shalt be called the repairer of the breach, the restorer of paths to dwell in.' The Earl of Thanet, the present possessor of the estates, with a due respect for the memory of his ancestors, and a proper sense of the value and beauty of these remains of antiquity, has given orders that they shall be preserved from all depredations." We have seen it stated, but we are afraid there is no authority for the assertion, that Sir Philip Sidney wrote part of his Arcadia at this place. The reader is probably acquainted with Wordsworth's " Song at the Feast of Brougham Castle," one of the noblest strains of lyric poetry in the language. It is supposed to be chanted by a minstrel in the day of rejoicing for the restoration of the " Shepherd Lord," mentioned on a preceding page : "High in the breathless hall the minstrel sate. And Eamont's murmur mingled with the song; The words of ancient time I thus translate, A festal strain that hath been silent long."* * Some members of the noble family of Clifford have been named before in this volume ; and as it was intimately connected with the early history of Westmoreland, a sketch of the more distinguished of them may not, per- haps, be deemed out of place here. They were a warlike sept, and engaged in all the contests of the time, so that it was a rare thing for any to die off the field. Doubtless they felt, or imagined they felt, that " One crowded hour of glorious life, Is worth an age without a name. " The first of the family who gained a footing in this country, was the Roger de Clifford above referred to. His son Robert, said to have been the greatest man of all the family, being of a most martial and heroic spirit, COUNTESS'S PILLAR. 175 A short distance beyond Brougham Castle, stands the Countess's Pillar, erected in 1656, by the same Lady Anne Clifford, " a memorial," as the inscription says,, " of her last parting at that place with her good and pious mother, Margaret Countess-Dowager of Cumberland, the 2d of April, 1616 : in memory whereof she has left an annuity of 4, to be distributed to the poor within the parish of Brougham, every second day of April for ever, upon a stone here by. Laus Deo." was one of the guardians of Edward II. when a minor, and in that monarch's reign he was made Lord High Admiral. He was a formidable part " of King Edward's power" at the battle of Bannockburn, where he fell on the 24th of June 1314. His grandson Robert was engaged, under the Black Prince, in the famous battle of Cressy. John, the grand-nephew, of the last Robert, married the only daughter of Hotspur Percy (whom Shakspeare has made immortal), and was killed at the siege of Meaux in France. His son Thomas gained renown at the battle of Poictiers, by the stratagem he planned, and successfully executed, for taking the town. Snow being on the ground, he and his men clad themselves in white, and, thus habited, they fell unperceived upon the place, and took it. Then came the Wars of the Roses. The last-mentioned Thomas, Lord Clifford, sided with his Sovereign, and fell at the battle of St. Alban's in 1455. This warlike Baron and his son, the next Lord, figure in Shakspeare's " Henry the Sixth." At the battle of Wakefield, in which all the nobility of England were engaged on one side or the other, John, Lord Clifford, tarnished the well-earned fame of his family, by killing in the pursuit the youthful Earl of Rutland, son of the Duke of York, who also fell in the same battle. " But who,' 1 says Speed, " can promise anything of himself in the heat of martial fury?" This barbarous deed was perpetrated through revenge, for the Earl's father had slain the murderers. This Lord met his death in the small valley of Dittingdale, the day before the battle of Towton, leaving a son, named Henry, only seven years old at the time of his father's death. This child was saved from the rage of the victorious party by concealment. For twenty-four years he was deprived of his estate and honours ; during which time he lived as a shepherd at Lonsborrow, in Yorkshire, or in Cumberland, at the estate of his father in-law, Sir Lancelot Threlkeld. One of the first acts of Henry VII. was to restore the Shepherd Lord to his possessions and dignity. In his retirement he acquired great astronomical knowledge, watching, like the Chaldeans of old, the stars by night upon the mountains. He also possessed some acquaintance with alchemy, and yet he was so illiterate when he took his place amongst his peers, as to be unable to write, nor did he ever attain higher proficiency in the art than enabled him 176 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. The Bard of Memory thus alludes to this pointed illustration of his theme : " Hast thou through Eden's wild wood vales pursued Each mountain scene magnificently rude, Nor with attention's lifted eye revered That modest stone by pious Pembroke rear'd, Which still records, beyond the pencil's power, The silent sorrows of a parting hour ! " "Wordsworth has a sonnet upon this subject ; and Felicia Hemans,with that love of feminine worth, and to subscribe his name. At the age of sixty he went, with a band of fol- lowers, to the battle of Flodden Field ; " and there showed," says Dr. Whitaker, " that the military genius of the family had neither been chilled in him by age, nor extinguished by habits of peace." " Yet not in war did he delight ; This Clifford long'd for worthier might ; Nor in broad pomp or courtly state Him his own thoughts did elevate ; Most happy in the shy recess Of Barden's humble quietness." White Doe of Rylstone. Three Earls of Cumberland then followed. George, the third Earl, was one of those to whom England is indebted for her proud title of "the Ocean Queen." He performed nine voyages in his own person, and in a great measure at his own expense, most of them to the West Indies, doing great honour to himself, and service to his Queen and country. That Queen was Elizabeth, who seems to have expended some of her coquetry upon him, for the naval hero was an accomplished courtier, and in a cere- monial pageant he was appointed her peculiar champion at tournaments. The last of the family whom we shall particularise, was the daughter of this chivalrous Earl, she who is best known by her maiden name, the Lady Anne Clifford (the " good Countess" of Gray's Letters), one of the most celebrated women of her time. Her tutor was the " well-languaged " Daniel, whose fortunes she was iDStrumental in advancing, and to whose memory she erected a monument in Westminster Abbey, an office she per- formed likewise for two other poets, Spenser and Drayton. She was twice married ; the first time to the Earl of Dorset, with whom she led a life of much unhappiness ; and then to " that memorable simpleton," as Walpole calls him, the Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, nephew of Sir Philip Sidney. "In her first widowhood," says her secretary and biographer, " she resolved, if God ordained a second marriage for her, never to have one that had children, and was a courtier, a curser and swearer. And it was her fortune to light on one with all these qualifications in the extreme." HART'S HORN TREE. 177 that true poetic sensibility -which eminently dis- tinguished her, also composed some lines upon the memorial Pillar from which we extract the first stanza : " Mother and Child ! whose blending tears Have sanctified the place, Where to the love of many years Was given one last embrace Oh ! ye have shrined a spell of power Deep in your record of that hour!"* Four miles from Penrith, near the road to Appleby, and in the district which to this day bears the name of Whinfell Forest, there formerly stood a fine oak, which bore the name of Harfs Horn Tree, a name it acquired from a tradition to this effect. In the time of the first Eobert de Clifford, about the year 1333, Edward Baliol, King of Scotland, came into Westmoreland, and stayed some time with that Lord at his castles of Appleby, Brougham, and Pendragon. During his visit they ran a stag, by a single greyhound, out of Whinfell Forest to Kedkirk, in Scotland, and back again to the same Notwithstanding all her troubles, she was of a high and courageous spirit, not fearing, when she imagined herself in the right, either King or Pro- tector. The answer, couched in language of Spartan brevity, which she is said to have returned to a ministerial application respecting the represen- tation of the borough of Appleby, is well known " I have been bullied by an usurper, I have been neglected by a Court, but I will not be dictated to by a subject your man shan't stand." It is now generally agreed that this letter is spurious ; but however that may be, she was imdoubtedly a woman of great ability, knowing well, as the witty Dr. Donne said of her, how to discourse of all things from predestination to slea silk. * "The 2d day of April 1618*was the last time that ever mother and daughter saw one another, for that day about noon, a quarter of a mile from Brougham Castle, in the open air, they took their last leave one of another with many tears and much grief ; the mother returning unto her said castle again, where she dyed the 24th day of the month following, and the daughter then going forward on her journey out of Westmorland to- wards London, and so unto Knowles House in Kent." A True Memorial of the Life of me the Lady Anne Clifford. Harkian MSS. 6177. N 178 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. place. Being both spent, the stag leaped over the pales and died there ; but the greyhound, attemping to leap, fell, and died on the opposite side. As a memorial of this incident, the stags horns were nailed upon a tree just by, and (the dog being named Hercules) this couplet obtained currency amongst the people Hercules kill'd Hart-a-grease, * And Hart-a-grease kill'd Hercules. In course of time, it is stated, the horns became grafted, as it were, upon the tree, by reason of its bark growing over their root, and there they remained more than three centuries, till, in the year 1648, one of the branches was broken off by some of the army, and ten years after- wards the remainder was secretly taken down by some mischievous people in the night. " So now," says Lady Anne Clifford, in her Diary, " there is no part thereof remaining, the tree itself being so decayed, and the bark of it so peeled off, that it cannot last long ; whereby we may see time brings to forgetfulness many memor- able things in this world, be they ever so carefully pre- served for this tree with the hart's horn in it, was a thing of much note in these parts." In another part of the same forest (which like many other forests in this country, as Skiddaw Forest, Ingle- * Dr. Percy, in a note to the stanza given below from the old " Song of Adam Bell," explains Hart-o-grease, or greece, to mean a fat animal, from the French word graisse. " Then went they down into a laund These noble archers thre"; Eche of them slew a hart of greece The best that they could see." There is an ancient broadside proclamation of a Lord Mayor of London preserved in the Archiepiscopal Library at Lambeth, in which, after de- nouncing " the excessyve and unreasonable pryses of all kyndes of all vytayles," it is ordered that "no citizen or freman of the saide citie shall sell or cause to be solde," amongst other things, " Capons of grece above xxci. or Hennes of grece above viid." MAYBOROUGH. 179 wood Forest, &c., has no other trace of what it has been but the name) there stood a few years ago three enormous Oak-trees, known by the name of the Three Brothers. One of them measured thirteen yards in girth. Two miles below Brougham Castle, on the precipit- ous banks of the Eamont, are two excavations in the rock, called Giant's Caves, or Isis Parlis. One is very large, and contains marks of having been inhabited There are traces of a door and window ; and a strong column has marks of iron grating upon it. The ap- proach to these caves is difficult. They are said to have been the abode of a giant called Isis. A short distance on the Westmoreland side of Eamont Bridge, in a field on the west of the road, about a mile and a half from Penrith, is another curious relic of antiquity King Arthur's Round Table. * a circular area above twenty yards in diameter, surrounded by a fosse and mound ; with two approaches opposite each other conducting to the area Formerly there was another circle of earth, exactly 400 feet distant from that now in existence. It is difficult to surmise the use to which these plots of ground were applied. They were evidently much too small for tilting, but possibly they might be the arena upon which contests of corporeal strength were exhibited. Higher up the Eamont, on a wooded eminence, is a place called MAYBOROUGH, about which a hundred differing conjectures have been formed. It is an area of nearly a hundred yards in diameter, surrounded by * " He pass'd red Penrith's Table Round, For feats of chivalry renown'd ; Left Mayborough's mound, and stones of power, By Druids raised in magic hour, And traced the Eamont's winding way, Till Ulfo's lake beneath him lay." Bridal of Triermain. 180 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. a substantial mound, composed of pebble-stones, elevated several feet, and thinly clothed with trees and shrubs. The entrance, which is about twelve yards in width, is placed on the east. Near the centre of the area is a large block of unhewn stone, eleven feet high, and twenty-five feet in girth. Formerly there were three similar columns with the one remaining, which formed a square, and four stood at the entrance, namely, one at each exterior, and one at each interior corner of the barrier. Seven miles north-east of Penrith, on the summit of an eminence near Little Salkeld, are the finest relics of antiquity in this vicinity, called Long Meg and her Daughters. They consist of a circle, 350 yards in circumference, formed of sixty-seven stones, some of them ten feet high. Seventeen paces from the southern side of the circle stands Long Meg a square unhewn column of red freestone, fifteen feet in circumference, and eighteen feet high. The poet Wordsworth has described in a sonnet the feelings excited by coming unexpectedly upon these remains, which, in his opinion, exceeded in singularity and dignity of appearance, any other relic of the dark ages he had seen except Stone Henge : " A weight of awe, not easy to be borne, Fell suddenly upon my Spirit cast From the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that family forlorn. Speak Thou, whose massy strength and stature scorn The power of years pre-eminent, and placed Apart, to overlook the circle vast Speak, Giant-mother ! tell it to the Morn While she dispels the cumbrous shades of Night ; Let the Moon hear, emerging from a cloud ; At whose behest uprose on British ground That Sisterhood, in hieroglyphic round Forth shadowing, some have deem'd, the infinite The inviolable God that tames the proud." DACKE CASTLE. 181 In former days similar remains were in much greater abundance. In 1725, when Dr. Stukeley made his "Iter Boreale," there were many cairns, remnants of circles, and lines of stones scattered about the country, which have since disappeared. These, the peasantry imagined, had been brought together by the famous wizard, Michael Scott. They had a tradi- tion that a giant, named Tarquin, lived at Brougham Castle until slain by Sir Lancelot de Lake, one of King Arthur's Knights. " But now the whole Bound Table is dissolved That was an image of the mighty world." * It is extremely probable that this district was part of, or closely adjoined that enormous wood, which in bygone ages bore the name of the Caledonian Forest. Ariosto (OrL Fur. c. IV.) sends the Paladin Einaldo to wander in search of adventure among its antique shady oaks, where the sound of sword against sword was often heard ; he tells his reader of the renowned Knights errant who roamed there ; and of the great exploits that had been achieved in it by Arthur, Lancelot, Tristram, and other famous Knights of the Round Table, of whose numerous feats there were monuments and pompous trophies still remaining. Restano ancor di piu d 'una lor prova Li monument! e li trofei pomposi. Five miles west-south-west of Penrith, near the village of Dacre, are the remains of DACRE CASTLE, which, by a slight detour, may be visited on the way to Ulleswater. This fortress, where the fierce barons of former years lived with their retainers in feudal magnificence, is now occupied as a farm-house. Sic transit gloria mundi. The moat has been drained. * Tennyson. 182 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. and filled up, the outworks demolished, and little left standing to tell of former grandeur, except four square embattled towers with intermediate buildings. The illustrious barons who resided here, are said to have derived their name from the exploits of one of the family at the siege of Acre (d'Acre) in the Holy Land, under Eichard Coeur de Lion. The scallop shell on their shield may seem to countenance this tradition. Sir Walter Scott, in the " Lay of the Last Minstrel," speaks of the crest " That swept the shores of Judah's sea And waved in gales of Galilee." And describes Lord Dacre's bill-men " With kirtles white, and crosses red, Array'd beneath the banner tall, That stream'd o'er Acre's conquer'd wall." On the family becoming divided, the elder branch, styled Lord Dacres of the South, remained here, and are ancestors to the present Lord Dacre ; the younger settling at Naworth, were termed Dacres of the North, and were barons of Gilsland and Greystock, and ances- tors of the Earl of Carlisle. Their name was once terrible on the Marches, where several of the clan held offices of high trust under the English sovereigns. Malmesbury states, that at a congress held at Dacre, King Athelstane received homage from the kings of Scotland and Cumberland, after a bloody conflict, in which the Scottish king's son was slain. That engage- ment is celebrated in a Saxon ode still extant. It is remarkable that there is a room in the Castle called to this day " the room of the three kings." An account of the edifice, written in 1688, is thus quaintly worded : "Dacker Castle stands alone, and no more house about it, and I protest looks very sorrowful for the loss of its founders in that huge battle of Towton DACRE CASTLE. 183 field ; and that total eclipse of the great Lord Dacres in that grand rebellion with Lords Northumberland and "Westmoreland, in Queen Elizabeth's time, and in the North called Caere's Eaide." Bede mentions a monastery that stood at this place, the stones of which afterwards served to build the church. In this edifice there is a recumbent figure of stone, in the habiliments of a knight, supposed to represent one of the early Lord Dacres. The churchyard contains four curious monumental stones, five feet in height. They are cut into the rude figures of bears sitting on their haunches, and grasping an upright pillar or ragged staff Five miles north-west of Penrith are the remains of a Roman station, respecting the name of which antiquarians have an irreconcilable quarrel; one declaring in favour of Petreia, another asserting that Brementenracum is its name ; whilst a third removes that station some miles distant, and places Voreda here. A military road, twenty-one feet broad, led from the Eoman Wall to this station, the vestiges of which are yet very distinct. The fort was a parallelo- gram, being one hundred and thirty- two yards by one hundred and twenty, enclosing an area of three acres. Its situation was about two hundred yards to the east of the river Peterill, and was such as to command the whole vale. A considerable number of urns and stones, bearing inscriptions, have been dug up at this place, and amongst the " Reliquiae Trottcosienses, or Gabions of Jonathan Oldbuck," to be seen at that "romance in stone and lime," Abbotsford, are some Roman or Colonial heads, which were found at Old Penrith. Let us now leave these wrecks of time for such of the modern habitations of the nobility and gentry as deserve particular notice. BROUGHAM HALL, an old and picturesque building, is the seat of Henry, Lord Brougham and Vaux. It 184 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. will be visited with interest, as the patrimonial inheri- tance and occasional residence of one who, at least, ranks amongst the greatest of English orators. It stands upon an eminence near the river Lowther, not far from the ruins of Brougham Castle, commanding extensive views of the surrounding country, the moun- tains beyond Ulleswater closing the distance. From its situation and beautiful prospects, it has been termed "the Windsor of the North." Having at one time belonged to a family named Bird, the country people, with some attempt at a jeu cC esprit, called it Bird's Nest. Mrs. Radclifie indeed says that a bird was formerly painted on the front. The pleasure-grounds and shrubberies are of considerable extent, and taste- fully laid out. The principal entrance is made from the east, through a strong and ancient gateway, into a beautiful grassy court, with ivied walls running on each side. The entrance-hall is hung round with numerous family portraits, and lighted by curiously painted windows, which, from the device of the two- headed eagle, and the German epigrammata scattered up and down, appear to be of Prussian manufacture. The "Book-room" is a handsome apartment, recently constructed. In a recess of the court before mentioned are several altars, brought from the Roman station at Brougham Castle, as a Latin inscription, in modern characters, informs us BEOVAGI EOMANOBUM RELIQUIAE. Some of the inscriptions can be made out well enough, but others are so much defaced that it is impossible for any eyes but those of a speculative antiquary to decipher them. The most legible reads thus : I. M. P. Imperatori. C. VAL. Ccesari Valeria. SSSo Constantino - PIENT Pientissimo. AUG. Augusta. EDEN HALL. 185 The family of Brougham (or Burgham, as it was formerly spelt), is ancient and respectable. The manor, which bears the same name, after having been long alienated, was re-acquired, and still belongs to the Broughams. EDEN HALL, the seat of the chief of the famous Border clan Musgrave, is a large and handsome edifice, on the west bank of the river Eden, which, being bor- dered with trees, forms an elegant feature in the pleasure-grounds. There is here preserved with scrupulous care an old and anciently-painted glass goblet called the Luck of Eden Hall, which would appear, from the following traditionary legend, to be wedded to the fortunes of its present possessors.* The butler, in going to procure water at a well in the neigh- bourhood (rather an unusual employment for a butler), came suddenly upon a company of fairies, who were feasting and making merry on the green sward. In their flight they left behind this glass, and one of them returning for it, found it in the hands of the butler. Seeing that its recovery was hopeless, she flew away, singing aloud " If that glass should break or fall, Farewell the luck of Eden Hall." The letters I. H. S. which are marked upon the case, sufficiently show the sacred uses to which it was originally appropriated. Mr. J. H. Wifien wrote a * The connexion of the prosperity of a family with the integrity of an inanimate object, has frequently been one of the playthings of tradition, and traces of the superstition are found in ancient fable. There is a legend of this kind attached to a pear, preserved in a silver box, at Coalstoun, the seat of the Earl of Dalhousie, near Haddington ; and there is, or was, a glass cup at Muncaster Castle, given by Henry VI. to Sir John Pennington, which, from the general opinion of the king's sanctity, and that he entailed with the gift a blessing on the family, was called " the Luck of Muncaster." 186 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. short poem upon the luck of Eden Hall, and the German poet Uhland has a ballad upon the same sub- ject. The Musgraves came to England with the Con- queror, and settled first at Musgrave in Westmoreland, then at Hartley Castle in the same county, and finally at their present residence. Sir Philip Musgrave, who was commander-in-chief of the King's troops for Cumber- land and "Westmoreland, in the Parliamentary "War, just walks across the stage in Scott's Legend of Montrose ; but by mistake the novelist calls him Sir Miles. LOWTHER CASTLE, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, is seated in a noble park of 600 acres, on the east side of the woody vale of Lowther. It was erected by the late Earl, after the designs of Sir Eobert Smirke, upon the site of the old hall which had been nearly destroyed by fire, as far back as the year 1726. The light- coloured stone of which it is built, is in pleasing con- trast with the vivid green of the park and woods. The effect of the whole pile is strikingly grand, worthy the residence of its wealthy and powerful owner. The north front, in the castellated style of the thirteenth or fourteenth century, is 420 feet in length. The south front is in the Gothic cathedral style, and has a number of pinnacles, pointed windows, &c. So far from the diversity of the fronts being discordant, the art of the designer has made them increase each other's effect a circumstance not unnoticed by Wordsworth, who has a sonnet commencing " Lowther ! in thy majestic pile are seen Cathedral pomp and grace, in apt accord With the baronial castle's sterner mien ; Union significant of God adored, And charters won, and guarded -with the sword Of ancient honour." Surmounting the whole is a lofty tower, from the sum- mit of which the prospect is extremely fine the LOWTHER CASTLE. 187 mountains of Helvellyn, Seat Sandal, Saddleback, and Skiddaw, with a large interspace of champaign and swelling country, are distinctly visible. The fitting up of the interior, which is shown with the utmost libera- lity to strangers, is in a style of splendour corresponding with the external appearance. Heart of oak and birch occupy in a great measure the place of foreign woods, in the furniture and carvings. The staircase, sixty feet square, which climbs the great central tower, with the ceiling, ninety feet from the ground, is highly imposing. The Library, forty -five feet by thirty, decorated entirely with oak, is plentifully stored with books, and hung round with family portraits. A Lady Lowther, by Lely, is a favourable specimen of his pencil. The saloon is a splendid apartment on the south front, sixty feet by thirty, having the dining-room on one side and the drawing-room on the other. The corridors and rooms are adorned with busts from the chisels of Chantrey, Westmacott, and other sculptors. Amongst these the bust of our liege Lady, Queen Victoria, taken when a chubby little prattler of three or four, will be viewed with more than ordinary interest. Upon the walls of the various apartments are hung many paintings by the ancient and modern masters, of great excellence and value. Amongst them we would point out the following as deserving of the visitor's es- pecial attention : BREAKFAST BOOM. Village Wake, Village Feast, and Fete Champetre, three pictures bj Tenniers first rate compositions. A Hawking Party, and a Halt of Cavalry, by Wouvermans. Fruit and Animals, by Pytt. " Is there no virtue extant ? " Oyster Supper. "Jan. Steen. 1660." Charity, an allegorical picture, by Vandyke. A duplicate is at Dulwich, Madonna and Child. Sasso Ferrato. Dutch Officer. F. Hals. 188 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Holy Family. Kubens ? Two Infants Embracing. An old Italian composition, attributed to Leon, da Vinci. There is a repetition of this subject, without the land- scape, at Hampton Court. Head. Kembrandt. Head. Titian. DINING BOOM. The Duke, of Wellington. Jackson. A full length of his Grace standing at the cannon's mouth. Sir James Lowther (the first Earl of Lonsdale), in a masquerade dress. In this room is a cast from Flaxman's celebrated model of the Shield of Achilles.* NORTH DRAWING ROOM. The. late Earl of Lonsdale. Lawrence. One of the painter's most suc- cessful efforts. Landscape. Poussin. Adoration of the Shepherds. Bassano. Two pictures, morning and evening. Marine View. Vandervelde. SMALL SITTING ROOM. Lieut.-Col. Lowther (the Earl's brother), as Major in the 10th Hussars. Lawrence. St. John Preaching in the Wilderness. Salvator Kosa. Landscape. Poussin. The Poet Wordsworth. A Drawing. LORD LONSDALE'S STUDY. Boors Playing at Cards. Tenniers. * This magnificent piece of art, which is of silver gilt, cost two thousand guineas. The artist has followed, with the utmost possible nicety, Homer's description of Vulcan's marvellous handiwork : " Bound the border of the shield he first wrought the sea, in breadth about three fingers; wave follows wave in quiet undulation. He knew that a boisterous ocean would disturb the harmony of the rest of his work. On the central boss he has represented Apollo or the Sun in his chariot ; the horses seem starting for- ward, and the god bursting out in beauty to give light to the universe around. Oil the twelve celebrated scenes which fill that space in the shield between the ocean border and the central representation of the universe, he exhausted all his learning, and expended all his strength. We have the labours of commerce and agriculture, hunting, war, marriage, religious rites all, in short, that makes up the circle of social existence. The figures are generally about six inches in height, and vary in relief from the smallest perceptible swell to half an inch. There is a convexity of six inches from the plane, and the whole contains not less than a hundred figures." ALLAN CUNNINGHAM. LOWTHEE CASTLE. 189 Alehouse Interior. Brouwer. Old Man Mending a Pen by Candlelight. Gerard Dow. Dutch Village Inn Scene. Ostade. Boys eating Fruit. Murillo. Head of a Martyr. Titian. Soldiers Quarrelling. Tlie Tribute Money. Valentin!. Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke, in Weeds. Christ and the Woman of Samaria. Vanderwerf. Female Head. Holbein. Crucifixion. Breughel. Singular for the number of figures. Faun and Dancing Nymphs. Vanderwerf. Exquisitely painted. River Scene. Farrier's Shop. Wouvermans. Two Crones. Ostade. Boors Revelling. Ostade. Female Reading. Gerard Dow. Dancing Children. Bacclianalian Revellers. Le Nain. GALLERY BOUND STAIR-CASE. St. Francis, as a Monk, praying. Guido. " One of those heads which Guido has often painted." St. Sebastian suffering Martyrdom. Guido. Not so fine as the Dulwich picture. St. Jerome. Guido. A Magdalen. Tintoretto. A Gentleman. Tintor. A full-length, finely-painted. Another full-length, in the Dutch manner, but attributed to Titian " Utinam " in one corner. ANTE-ROOM, WEST OF STAIR-CASE. The Palmister. Two Soldiers Gaming. Pietro da Vecchia. Belisarius. Rembrandt. William III. in his Robes. The Duke of Monmouth in Armour. Dobson. DRESSING ROOM, EAST FRONT. Magdalen reading with a Skull on her Knee. E. Sirani, Guido's favourite pupil Landscape. Salvator Rosa. BILLIARD ROOM. King George IV., by Lawrence. Duplicate at "Windsor. William Pitt. Hoppner. The late Lady Lonsdale. Lawrence. There are some stanzas by Southey, in which, he describes the sorrowful feelings that had once pervaded his mind, arising from his belief that the age had pro- 190 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. duced no buildings which would deserve to survive it. These stanzas conclude thus : " With other feelings now, Lowther ! have I beheld thy stately walls, Thy pinnacles, and broad embattled brow, And hospitable halls. The sun those widespread battlements shall crest, And silent years unharming shall go by, Till centuries in their course invest Thy towers with sanctity. But thou the while shalt bear To aftertimes an old and honour'd name, And to remote posterity declare Thy founder's virtuous fame. Fair structure ! worthy the triumphant age Of glorious England's opulence and power, Peace be thy lasting heritage, And happiness thy dower!" The capabilities of the situation which the park afforded had been publicly noticed by Lord Macartney, who, in describing a romantic scene in the imperial park at Gehol, in China, observed, that " it reminded him of Lowther in "Westmoreland, which, from the extent of prospect, the grand surrounding objects, the noble situa- tion, the diversities of surface, the extensive woods and command of water, might be rendered, by a man of sense, spirit, and taste, the finest scene in the British dominions." How far his Lordship's views have been realized, the visitor will judge. The park has been much admired for the profusion of fine forest trees which em- bellish its banks and braes. It is watered by the Lowther, the pellucid clearness of which fully justifies its supposed etymological derivation. The gray and tree-crowned crags, the transparent stream, and the graceful windings of its course, add greatly to the charms of its scenery. It was one of the greatest pleasures of the poet "Wordsworth, in his boyhood, to wander through these fair domains " And muse in rocky cell and sylvan tent, Beside swift flowing Lowther's current clear." LOWTHER CASTLE. 191 One portion, lying on the banks of the river, has, from its extreme beauty, acquired the name of that happy region to which the Sybil led tineas, so that, if the stranger choose, he may, like Yorick, the Sentimental Traveller, possess " a clearer idea of the Elysian Fields than of heaven." We are sorry that we have no space for Mr. Monckton Milne's verses upon this spot. Near the Castle there is a grassy terrace, shaded by fine trees nearly a mile long, from which the prospect is most charming, and Askham Church, Askham Hall, and Lowther Church, are seen from many parts of the park with beautiful effect. The Lowther family is of great antiquity, the names of William de Lowther and Thomas de Lowther being subscribed as witnesses to a grant of lands in the reign of Henry II. The family name is probably derived from the river, the word being British and signifying clear water. Sir Hugh de Lowther was Attorney- General to Edward III., and afterwards one of his Justices itinerant. Another Sir Hugh was engaged at the battle of Agincourt, under the Eiith Harry, as well as two others of the same family. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Richard Lowther, Knt., held the office of Lord Warden of the West Marches, and being High Sheriff of Cumberland, when Queen Mary, flee- ing into England, arrived at Workington, 1568, he con- veyed her, by the direction of Elizabeth, to Carlisle Castle. This incident is mentioned in Sir Walter Scott's novel of the Abbot. Sir John Lowther, first Viscount Lonsdale, distinguished himself by influencing the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland in favour of King William at the memorable era of 1688 ; in return for which service that king created him a Yiscount, and conferred upon him many other honours. Sir James Lowther, first Earl of Lonsdale, succeeded to 192 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. the three great inheritances of Mauds Meaburn, Lowther, and Whitehaven, which came to him from different "branches of the family. When a commoner, he was thirty years M.P for Westmoreland or Cumherland, and in 1761 was returned for both counties. He was also Lord- Lieutenant of the two counties, and succeeded to the two millions left by his kinsman, Sir James Lowther of Whitehaven, 1755. Of his immense wealth, the distribution of which by will was said to give universal satisfaction, " a small portion in gold," 50,000, was found in his houses. He married a grand-daughter of the celebrated Lady Mary Montague, but .died without issue. He was remarkable for his eccentricity and cap- rice. In the words of the English Opium-Eater, " he was a true feudal chieftain ; and in the very approaches to his mansion, in the style of his equipage, or what- ever else was likely to meet the public eye, he delighted to express his disdain of modern refinements by the haughty carelessness of his magnificence. The coach in which he used to visit Penrith was old and neglected, his horses fine, and untrimmed ; and such was the im- pression diffused about him by his gloomy temper and his habits of oppression, that, according to the declara- tion of a Penrith contemporary of the old despot, the streets were silent as he traversed them, and an awe sat upon many faces. In his park you saw some of the most magnificent timber in the kingdom trees that were coeval with the feuds of York and Lancaster yews that perhaps had furnished bows to Coeur de Lion, and oaks that might have built a navy. All was savage grandeur about these native forests their sweeping lawns and glades had been unapproached for centuries, it might be, by the hand of art, and amongst them roamed not the timid fallow deer, but thundering droves of wild horses. Lord Lonsdale (in the words of an old GKEYSTOKE CASTLE. 193 English writer) "was sometimes in London, because there only he found a greater man than himself ; but not often, because at home he was allowed to forget that there was such a man." Mr. Pitt was first brought in- to Parliament for Appleby, one of the boroughs of Lord Lonsdale, then Sir James Lowther. When Pitt became Prime Minister, Sir James was rewarded foi his services by being raised to the dignity of an Earl. " Yet so indignant was he," says Nathaniel Wraxall, " at finding himself last on the list of newly-created earls though the three individuals who preceded him were already barons of many centuries old that he actually attempted to reject the peerage, preferring to remain a commoner rather than submit to so great a mortification." The present Earl is the third pos- sessor of the Earldom, and a son of the first Earl's cousin. GREYSTOKE CASTLE, the seat of Henry Howard, Esq., formerly the property of the Dukes of Norfolk, who still enjoy the dignity of Baron of Greystock, stands in a park of 5000 acres. The present mansion was erected within the last hundred years, near the site of the ancient Castle, which being garrisoned for the King in 1648, was taken and destroyed by a detachment of the Parliamentarian army. It is built in an exaggerated style of massiveness, but late improve- ments have caused it to assume an appearance of con- siderable elegance. Views of the distant lake moun- tains are commanded from the windoAvs, and the grounds adjacent to the mansion are well laid out. In the hall there hangs some " armour of the invincible knights of old," emblazoned shields, and several pairs of horns. One pair is of enormous magnitude, and weighs forty-two pounds. There is also in the hall a large painting, by Lonsdale, of Solomon and the Queen o 194 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. of Sheba, in which several family portraits are intro- duced. A balustrading on one side separates the Hall from the Long Gallery, in which are placed many ancient family portraits. The library contains a chimney-piece of richly carved oak. Two of the principal designs are Sampson and Delilah, and Jephthah and his daughter, each having appropriate legends. Amongst the paintings the following may be enumerated as of peculiar interest : Erasmus and Archbishop Warham, ; both by Holbein. John, Duke of Norfolk, -who was killed on Bosworth Field, the subject of the lines, " Jocky of Norfolk, be not so bold, For Dickon thy master is bought and sold." Thomas, Third Duke of Norfolk, Lord High Treasurer to Henry VIII. Ann Dacre, Countess of Arundel, who brought Greystock from the Dacres to the Howards. ' Elizabeth, daughter to the last Duke of Lennox, and wife of Henry Frederick, Earl of ArundeL Henry, Earl of Arundel, and his Countess, the Lady Alathea Talbot. Henry, Sixth Duke of Norfolk, when a loy. Vandyke. Lady Catharine Howard, daughter of Henry Frederick, Bail of Arundel. Vandyke. James I. Charles I. Mytens. Charles II. and James II. Prince Charles Edward, in a Highland Costume. Mary Queen of Scots, two pictures, one in a crimson dress, the other in mourning. View of Venice. Canaletti. Two Views of Rome. Wilson. A Piece of Needlework, by Mary Queen of Scots, representing the Cruci- fixion, will be inspected with interest. Those who have not previously seen Ullswater may take the opportunity of visiting that romantic lake from this vale of Lowther, crossing the fells to JPatterdale. A detailed description of the road will be found at page 199. 195 EXCURSION TO SHAP ABBEY AND HAWES WATER. This lake, three miles long by half a mile broad, lies embosomed in lofty mountains, thirteen and a half miles north of Penrith, and eight from Pooley Bridge. It is the property of the Earl of Lonsdale. The road from Penrith best adapted for carriages is that by way of Shap ; but the nearest and most picturesque road is that by way of Yanwath, Askham, Helton, and Bamp- ton, in the vale of the Lowther, the line of which may be traced on the chart of Ulleswater. The latter road quits the Penrith and Pooley Bridge road at Yanwath ; after leaving that village it crosses what was formerly Tirrel and Yanwath Moor, to Askham, five miles from Penrith. Helton is rather more than a mile beyond, and Bampton is nearly four miles further. Bishop Law of Carlisle, the friend of Paley, was born in this hamlet, and it is said that in the neighbourhood the last skirmish between the Scots and Westmarians took place. SHAP, a straggling village on the road between Kendal and Penrith is five miles to the east of Bamp- ton. The road connecting the two villages passes near the ruins of Shap Abbey, lying on the banks of the Lowther, now bare, but once occupied by a thick forest, this Abbey, anciently called Heppe, was founded about the year 1150, by Thomas the son of Gospatrick, for monks of *the Premonstratensian order, and dedicated to St. Magdalen. Upon the Dissolution, the abbey and manor were granted to Thomas Lord Wharton, for his eminent services against the Scotch when Warden of the Marches,* from whose descendant, the first and last * His principal exploit was performed when governor of Carlisle in 1542. With a detachment of 1400 horse and foot he routed an army of 15,000 Scots, at Sollom Moss, taking seven noblemen, -with a great nnmbei of common soldiers, prisoners, and seizing their whole baggage and artillery. 196 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Duke of Wharton, they were purchased by an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale. The only part left standing is the church tower ; but from the vestiges of buildings yet visible, the abbey appears to have been extensive. In the vicinity of Shap are two of those rude structures to which no certain date can be assigned, and which are therefore usually referred to the primitive times of the Druids. Karl Lofts, the name of one, consists of several masses of unhewn granite, the remnants of two parallel lines which terminated in a circle. Many of the granitic blocks have been carried off for building purposes, or some other " base use," others are prostrate and covered with soil, while the terminating circle has been destroyed in the foundation of the railway which passes over the site. At a place called Gunnerskeld The Soots, on this occasion, designedly suffered defeat, in order to be re- venged upon their king, James V., whom they detested. The unhappy monarch died of a broken heart shortly after the battle, so that the venge- ance of his subjects was complete. This nobleman's descendant, the Duke, upon whom Pope has conferred an unenviable immortality, exhibited one of the most striking instances of talents misapplied, and energies wasted, that ever pointed a tale. He possessed uncommon personal graces, great natural ability, and unusual powers of eloquence, the effect of all being destroyed by profligate habits and a wayward capriciousness of disposition, almost amounting to madness. A clandestine marriage occasioned such grief to his ambitious father as to have hastened his end. The talent and oratory he displayed on behalf of Government after his father's death attracted the especial notice of the Crown to such a degree, that he was advanced a step in the peerage before he reached twenty-one. As if to gratify the worst wishes of his enemies, he then paid his court to the Pretender, and formally entered his service, changing at the same time the Protestant faith for the Catholic. Finally, he joined the Spanish army, when Spain was at war with England. This was the measure of his offences. Govern- ment could no longer brook a defection so entire in one of his elevated rank : he was attainted of high treason, and his estates confiscated. He died, the victim of his excesses, at a Capuchin Monastery in Spain, depen- dent upon the bounty of the monks. Richardson is said to have drawn the character of Lovelace from the Duke. We subjoin a portion of Pope's celebrated lines, in which " unhappy Wharton " is treated with more tenderness than (considering the subject) could have been looked for. Tha secret of the poet's leniency was, we suspect, the Duke's vigorous (yet, ii HAWES WATER. 197 Bottom there is a circle of large stones, thought to be a sepulchral cairn. Returning to Bampton from our visit to the antiquities at Shap, the foot of Hawes Water is reached, a mile and a half beyond the former village. Burn- banks, near the extremity of the lake, has furnished a station for our outline sketch. The wild wood of Naddle Forest beautifully feathers the steeps of the east shore. Rather more than a mile from the foot of the lake. Fordendale brook is crossed near a few houses, called Measand Becks, behind which the brook makes some pretty falls on the mountain side. A broad promontory of rich meadow land enters the lake at this place, and approaching within two or three hundred yards of the other margin, divides the lake into two unequal portions. The craggy eminence hanging over the opposite the well-known anecdote be true, unprincipled) defence, in the House of Lords, of Atterbury, Pope's intimate friend. After all, the tender mercies of the Satirical are crueL On reviewing this nobleman's life it is difficult to attribute its wild vagaries to the influence of any one ruling passion, certainly not to a love of praise, for no man ever more grossly outraged the conditions through which it is obtained, or seemed less to care how posterity would treat his name. " Wharton, the scorn and wonder of our days, Whose ruling passion was the lust of praise Born with whate'er could win it from the wise, Women and fools must like him or he dies Though wondering senates hung on all he spoke, The club must hail him master of the joke. Shall parts so various aim at nothing new? He '11 shine a Tully and a Wilmot too. Thus with each gift of nature and of art, And wanting nothing but an honest heart ; Grown all to all from no one vice exempt, And most contemptible to shun contempt ; His passion still to covet general praise, His life to forfeit it a thousand ways, He dies, sad outcast of each church and state, And harder still ! flagitious, yet not great." 198 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. shore is Wallow Crag, within whose ponderous jaws the common people believe that the once errant spirit "of Jamie Lowther" (the first Earl of Lonsdale) is securely inurned. He was a man universally dreaded, from his stern demeanour, and his despotic use of great local power. After his death it was confidently stated that his ghost roamed about these vales, to the terror of all his Majesty's well-disposed subjects, until some worthy priest, skilled in the management of refractory apparitions, safely "laid" him, with the aid of divers exorcisms and approved charms, in the centre of this rock. The only boats upon the lake belong to Lord Lonsdale ; but if application be made to his Lordship's gamekeeper, who lives by the roadside, about a mile from the foot of the mere, he will, if not otherwise engaged, cheerfully accommodate the stranger with his personal services. The principal feeder flows from Blea Water and Small Water, two tarns lying under High Street, whose lofty summit, with its dependent ridges and protuberances, forms the greater part of the magnificent mountain range at the head of the lake. Looking upwards, either from the surface of the lake, or from the road, three several ridges are seen connect- ing the valley with the elevated summits on the right. First, Lathel, on the north of the coom called Whelter Bottom, then Castle Hill and Whelter Crag pushing up to Kidsty Pike ; and lastly, Long Stile, which joins High Street. The conical top of Hill Bell may be perceived beyond ; and as the head is approached, Harter Fell takes his determined stand in front. Char, trout, skellies, and perch abound in Hawes Water. The little chapel of Mardale stands close to the road about a mile above the lake, and over against it is a neat white house, called Chapel Hill, the residence ol a yeoman named Holm. The ancestor of this family PATTEEDALB. 199 came originally from Stockholm, and landed in England in the train of the Conqueror. He was rewarded with an estate in Northamptonshire, where the family were seated until the reign of King John, at which period, its head flying from his enemies, concealed himself in a cavity (to this day called Hugh's Cave) at the foot of Eiggendale Crag, barely half a mile from the estate where his descendant resides, and which was purchased by the fugitive. Udolphus Holm, one of the family, founded an oratory or house of prayer near his habita- tion, from which this place took the name of Chapel HilL Having wound round a rocky screen, a few houses, termed collectively Mardale Green (amongst which iihere is a small inn), are seen thinly sown over the floor of a little verdant plain. Harter Fell closes in this level area on the south lofty mountains rise on the east and west ; whilst on the north there is the rocky partition above mentioned, contributing to make this as perfect a solitude as can well be conceived. The pedestrian will find a road over the pass of Gate- scarth, which reaches Kendal by the vale of Long- sleddale, fifteen miles from Mardale Green (page 18). From Mardale the rambler might ascend High Street, and descend into Troutbeck ; or cross the Martindale Fells direct to Patterdale, at the head of Ulleswater ; or, by scrambling over the pass called Nan Eield, between Harter Fell and High Street, descend into Kentniere. WALK FROM LOWTHER VALE TO PATTERDALE. The pedestrian, to whom the frequented side ol Ulleswater is familiar, will like to know that he may make an agreeable ramble across the fells separating the vale of Lowther from that lake, and then pursue his 200 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. way to Patterdale "by its east shore. From Askham he will go on to Helton, and there take a road up the hill side which enters the common near a farm house, called Helton Head. He must strike across the. open moor in a south-westerly direction, and when he arrives at the ridge, he will have a splendid view of the whole Skiddaw range from Dodd Fell to High PiKe, with the two Mell Fells in front. The Helvellyn and Fairfield ranges are also in view. Let him keep along the ridge until he approaches within a short distance of Lade Pot, and then let him from his bird-like station admire the Martindale Glens that run up from Ulleswater before he descends into the nearest, Fusedale. If the proper place be chosen (and he will find it difficult to descend at any other than the spot to which we allude), a green path winding through a recess will conduct him to Mellguards, a farm house not far from How Town, where there is a small public house. A road crosses a ridge behind Hallin Fell to Sandwike, whence he has the choice of two routes to Patterdale. One is a cart track up Boredale, the other is a foot-road of the roughest description, along the margin of Ulleswater, underneath Birk Fell and Place Fell The views along this path are very beautiful From one broad rock that overhangs the water, there is an extremely fine view of the upper and middle reaches. Patterdale is about four miles from Sandwike. The stranger who wishes to guard against unpleasent contingencies should not start on this ramble late in the day. 201 WHITEHAVEK \Inns: Globe; Black Lion; Golden Lion; Albion.] 50J miles from Ulverston 35 from Broughton. Excursions to Ennerdale (9); Lowes Water, Crummock, Buttermere, and Scale Force (14); Cockermouth by railway, Bassenthwaite, Derwentwater, and Keswick (28). To Partree, Harrington, Workington, Flimby, and Maryport, by railway (12). To Workington and Cockermouth by railway. Whitehaven is a market town and sea-port seated at the upper end of a small creek on the west coast, in the county of Cumberland, near the fine cliffs called Scilly Bank, in the parish of St. Bees, and contains about 15,000 inhabitants. This town has advanced rapidly from insignificance to its present state of prosperity, for in the year 1566 six fishermen's huts were all that bore the name of Whitehaven. This sudden progress in the scale of importance is to be attributed in a great mea- sure to the munificence of the Lowther family, who, having large estates around the town and valuable pos- sessions in coal underneath it, have liberally come for- ward on all occasions, when opportunities have occurred, to promote its prosperity. The chief manufactures are coarse linens, and articles connected with the fitting up of vessels ; shipbuilding is also carried on to a considerable extent. The port is the second in the county, there being upwards of 200 vessels belonging to it trading with the seaports of Great Britain, and with America, the West Indies, and the Baltic, as well as almost an equal number engaged in the coal trade ; large quantities of iron and lead ore, grain, and lime, are exported. The harbour is spacious and commodious, having seven piers extending into the sea in different directions, and affording ample security for vessels lying within. At the entrance of the har- 202 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. hour there are two light-houses, and a third is situate on the promontory of St. Bees Head, three miles to the south-west. A machine, called the patent slip, erected by Lord Lonsdale, into which vessels are drawn with ease and expedition when repairs are required, deserves a visit. The bay and harbour are defended by batteries, formerly consisting of upwards of a hundred guns, but lately suffered to fall into decay. These batteries re- ceived extensive additions after the alarm caused by the descent of the notorious Paul Jones in 1778. This des- perado, who was a native of Galloway, and had served his apprenticeship in "Whitehaven, landed here with thirty armed men, the crew of an American privateer which had been equipped at Nantes for this expedition. The success of the enterprise was, however, frustrated by one of the company, through whom the inhabitants were placed on the alert. The only damage they suc- ceeded in doing was the setting fire to three ships, one of which was burnt. They were obliged to make a precipitate retreat, and having spiked the guns of the battery, they escaped unhurt to the coast of Scotland, where they plundered the house of the Earl of Selkirk. Since 1803 a life-boat has been stationed here, and it has been the means of saving many lives. The streets of the town have a neat appearance, being straight as well as wide, and intersecting each other at right angles. A rivulet called the Poe runs underneath the town into the harbour. There are three churches of the Establishment St. Nicholas, erected in 1693, Trinity, in 1715, and St. James, in 1752; there are also many dissenting places of worship. The schools are numerous, educating more than 1700 children, nearly 500 of whom are taught at the National School. The Theatre in Eoper Street, erected in 1769, has a handsome appearance. The Workhouse is a large WHITEHAVEN. 203 building in Scotch Street. The Harbour Office, in which the affairs of the harbour, docks, and customs, are transacted, is a large structure on the West Strand. The Public Office, containing a police office, newsroom, &c., stands in Lowther Street. Two newspapers are published weekly, the Cumberland Pacquet, and the Whitehaven Herald, both of which are largely circu- lated through the county. The town now enjoys the privilege of returning a member to Parliament. The coal mines are the principal scource of wealth at Whitehaven. They are, perhaps, the most extraor- dinary in the world, lying underneath the town, and extending a considerable distance under the bed of the sea. They are 320 yards in depth, and such vast quan- tities of coal have been excavated from them as to have given them the appearance of a subterranean city. In times of pressing demand, 1500 tons are frequently taken to the shore for exportation each day. In the early part of 1791, the ground underneath a portion of the town give way, and eighteen houses were in conse- quence injured, but the occupiers fortunately escaped unhurt. The sea has sometimes burst into the mines, causing an immense destruction of life and property ; the miners are also much annoyed with fire-damp and choke-damp. There are many short railways to con- vey the coal to the shore, and steam-engines of great power are in continual operation for the purpose of carrying off the superfluous water. The mines have five principal entrances, called Bearmouths, three on the south side and two on the north, by all of which horses can descend. Whitehaven is in direct communication with Liverpool, Belfast, Dublin, and Douglas, in the Isle of Man, by the packets of the Steam Navigation Com- pany. A packet sails and returns three times a-week 204 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. to and from Liverpool ; and as this mode of reaching Whitehaven is much more economical than the inland one, some persons avail themselves of it for the pur- pose of arriving at the lake country. Information relative to the fares and times of sailing will be best ascertained by referring to Bradshaw's Guide. Rail- way trains leave "Whitehaven several times daily for Maryport in connexion with the Maryport and Carlisle Railway, and for St. Bees and Ravensglass, Bootle, Broughton, Ulverston, Furness Abbey, and Piel, fox Fleetwood, by the Whitehaven and Furness Junction Railway. The principal residences in the neighbourhood of Whitebaven are, Whitehaven Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, surrounded by fine grounds, on the south-east of the town ; Hensingham House (Henry Jefferson, Esq.), one mile south; Summer Grove (Major Spedding), two miles south; Keekle Grove (Mrs. Perry), three miles south; Line- thwaite (George Harrison, Esq.), three miles south ; Spring Field (Mrs. Jefferson), four miles south; Gill Foot (Thomas Hartley, Esq.), five miles south; Moresby Mall (Miss Tate), two miles north, built after the design of Inigo Jones. EXCURSIONS FEOM WHITEHAVEN may be made, by railway, to St. Bees and Egremont from ST. BEES STATION, Calderbridge and Abbey 2 miles from SELLAFIELD STATION ; Gosforth (2), Strands (7), Wastwater (8), from SEA- SCALE STATION ; Stanley Gill, Eskdale, (7) from DRIGG STATION Black Combe from BOOTLE STATION, &c., and to Ennerdale Lake, and to Wastwater by road. ST. BEES. The village which gives its name to the parish of St. Bees, in which parish Whitehaven is situate, lies in a narrow valley near the shore, four miles to the south of Whitehaven. Its appellation is said to be derived ST. BEES. 205 from St. Bega, an Irish virgin and saint, who lived here in the odour of sanctity, and founded a monastery, about the year 650. The church, which was erected some time after her death, was dedicated to her, and is still in a state of tolerable preservation. The tower is the only part of the Saxon edifice remaining, the rest being in the florid Gothic style. It is built of red freestone, in a cruciform shape, and possesses some fine carvings, particularly at the east end, which is lighted by three lancet-shaped windows. The nave is used as the parish- church, and the cross aisle as a place of burial Amongst the tombs there is a wooden effigy of Anthony, the last Lord Lucy of Egremont. The transepts are walled off from both nave and choir, and used, the one as a lumber-room, the other as a library. Until 1810, the chancel was unroofed, but in that year it was repaired, and is now occupied as the Divinity School, for the reception of young men in- tended for the Church, but not designed to finish their studies at Oxford or Cambridge. " The old Conventual Church," says Wordsworth, in the Preface to his Poem of " St. Bees," is well worthy of being visited by any strangers who might be led to the neighbourhood of this celebrated spot." In that, poem there occurs this narrative of the principal events in the history of the ecclesiastical buildings : " When Beza sought of yore the Cumbrian coast, Tempestuous winds her holy passage cross'd; She knelt in prayer the waves their wrath appease; And from her vow, well weigh'd in Heaven's decrees, Hose, where she touch'd the strand, the chantry of St. Bees ******** When her sweet voice, that instrument of love, Was glorified, and took its place, above The silent stars, among the angelic quire, Her chantry blazed with sacrilegious fire, 206 GUIDE TO THE TAKES. And perish'd utterly ; but her good deeds Had sown the spot that witness'd them with seeds, Which lay in earth expectant, till a breeze, With quickening impulse, answer'd their mute pleas, And lo ! a statelier pile, the Abbey of St. Bees. by a mandate given Through lawless will, the brotherhood was driven Forth from their cells; their ancient house laid low In Reformation's sweeping overthrow. But now once more the local heart revives, The inextinguishable spirit strives. Oh, may that power who hush'd the stormy seas, And clear'd a way for the first votaries, Prosper the new born College of St. Bees ! " The Grammar School, which stands near the church, was formed by Archbishop GrindaL This was the " perfidious prelate " of the high churchmen " the pious Grindal " of old Fuller. Spenser has thought him wor- thy of commendation in one of his poems. ST. BEES TO ENNEKDALE LAKE. This lake is less visited than most of the others, in con- sequence of its difficulty of access and the want of houses of entertainment in the valley. Moreover, it is deficient in some of those attractions which throw such an irresistible charm around more favoured meres. There is a want of wood to relieve the wild barrenness of its shores, and the hills immediately surrounding it do not reach those austere sublimities which congregate around "Wast Water and Crummock Lake. It is approached by way of the village of Hensingham. and the Cleator Iron Works, and lies nine miles to the east of Whitehaven, from which town it is more easily reached than from any other. Its length is not more than three miles, and its extreme width is about three- ENNERDALE LAKE. 207 quarters of a mile. The stream which enters at its head is called the Lizza, but the river issuing from the lake takes the name of Ehen. This stream is crossed for the first time by those approaching the lake five miles from Whitehaven and a second time three miles further up, at the village of Ennerdale Bridge, at which is the chapel and chapel-yard, the scene of Words- worth's poem of " The Brothers." " Is neither epitaph nor monument, Tombstone nor name ; only the turf we tread, And a few natural graves." Near it are two small inns ; the foot of the Lake is one- mile beyond. Those who like to have their feet upon mountain turf, may make their way from Ennerdale Bridge by Crosdale over the Fells to Lowes Water. They will descend a breast of Blake Fell between two gullies. Hence the view is extremely beautiful. Only the foot of Lowes Water is seen, the rest being hidden by part of Blake Fell. The perpendicular fronts of Whiteside and Grasmoor are full in view, and between them and the spectator is the richly wooded vale of Lowes Water. The long bank covered with trees is Lanthwaite Wood. , A small part of Crummock Lake is visible on the right, Melbreak intercepting the view of the rest. The " Angler's Inn," or Boathouse, on the margin of the lake, has recently been considerably enlarged, and affords comfortable accommodation. It is situated aboiit two miles from Ennerdale bridge, and four from Gillerthwaite. One mile from the lower extremity of this mere, and near its centre, a few stones rise from the water. The best way to enjoy ,the scenery is to take a boat. The rock which stretches into the lake from the south shore near the islet, is Angling Craag; a little below which, there is a superb view of the moun- 208 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. tains surrounding the upper part of the vale. Eevelin is behind Angling Crag, and Crag Fell is below, its summit wearing the appearance of a fortification from the surface of the water. On the north shore, Herd- house is the highest hill ; a fine coom separates it from Bowness Crag. The distant summit of Grasmoor is visible from the lake. At the scattered hamlet of Bowness the pedestrian may cross the fells on the north, taking Floutern Tarn as a guide. He must not pursue the stream issuing from it, but descend between Melbreak on the left and Blea Crag on the right into Buttermere dale ; this path is about six miles long. By following the stream from Floutern Tarn, he will be conducted to the head of Lowes Water, whence he may proceed to Scale Hill. There is a cart road on the north-east bank of the stream. As the path across these fells is somewhat puzzling, we may further explain that on leaving Enner- dale the stranger's safest course is to follow the banks of a stream which comes down under Herdhouse to the hamlet of Bowness. Towards the source of the stream there are extensive views over the lowlands in the west, with the sea beyond. Whitehaven is hidden by Scilly Bank. Proceeding a little, a rocky cop comes into sight. Now, to reach. Buttermere, keep between that eminence and the tarn, but to reach Lowes Water pass to the left of it, and descend alongside the stream which is seen after crossing its shoulder. The first two miles of Ennerdale Water is the most picturesque part, and, therefore, carriages need not proceed farther along the road than this distance, for there is no outlet for them at the upper end of the valley. Strangers will not regret taking the trouble tc climb the hill-side, for a short distance behind Bowness, as they will be rewarded by a splendid view. The ENNERDALE LAKE. 'J09 pedestrian or horseman will do well to traverse the whole length of the vale, as the mountains round its upper end are thrown into magnificent groups. Long before reaching the head of the lake the scenery becomes wild and desolate. A mile and a-half beyond the mere is the farm-house of Gillerthwaite, the last habitation in the vale. Here the road for vehicles ends, but a shepherd's path passes along the banks of the Lizza, and four miles beyond Gillerthwaite the extremity of Enner- dale is reached. Great Gable (2949 feet) is a fine object at the head; and the Pillar (2927) feet) has a striking appearance on the right. Great Gable is so called from it resembling the gable end of a house. On the summit there is a small hollow in the rock scarcely ever empty of water, " having," says "Wordsworth, no other feeder than the dews of heaven, the showers, the vapours, the hoar frost, and the spotless snow." The peculiar shape of the Pillar will not fail to strike the eye for some distance. " You see yon precipice ; it wears the shape Of a vast building made of many crags ; And in the midst is one particular rock, That rises like a column from the vale, Whence by our shepherds it is called the PILLAR."* A sheep-cote not far from the termination of the valley will be noticed. At this point a faint path strikes up the hill on the left, called Scarf Gap, and reaches Gatescarth in Buttermere, by a road three miles in length. From another sheep-cote a little higher up, a path passes over Black Sail on the right, and winding round Kirkfell into Mosedale, having the lull Yewbarrow on the right, reaches Wastdale Head, * From Wordsworth's pastoral poem, "The Brothers," the scene of which is in Ennerdale chapel-yard. 210 GUIDE TO THE LAKES. three miles from the sheep-cote ; but these paths should not be attempted late in the season without a guide (see page 138). ST. BEES EGREMONT TO WASTWATER. This lake may be visited either by the Furness Junction Bailway from Drigg or Seascale station, the former of which is 14^-, and the latter 12|- miles from Whitehaven, or by the road which passes through the town of Egremont. Following the road, two miles and a half beyond Egremont, on the right, is the village of Beckermet. A house near this village, the property of Mr. Brocklebank, bears the name of Wotobank, from the hill near which it stands. The derivation of the name is assigned by tradition to the following inci- dent : A Lord of Beckermet, with his lady and servants, were one day hunting wolves. During the chase the lady was discovered to be missing. After a long and painful search, her body was found on this hill or bank, slain by a wolf, which was discovered in the very act of tearing it to pieces. In the first transports of his grief, the husband exclaimed, " Wo to this bank !" " Wo to thee, bank ! the attendants echoed round, And pitying shepherds caught the grief-fraught sound : Thus, to this hour, through every changing age, Through every year's still ever-varying stage, The name remains, and Wotobank is seen From every mountain bleak and valley green Dim Skiddaw views it from its monstrous height, And eagles mark it in their dizzy flight." MRS. COWLEY'S Edwina. 211 CALDEE BEIDGE. [Inns: Stanley's Arms ; Golden Fleece. J The road crosses Calder Bridge four miles from Egremont. There are two good inns in the village. Close at hand is Ponsonby Hall, the residence of W. Stanley, Esq., in a beautiful park. One mile above the village, on the north bank of the stream, are the picturesque remains of Calder Abbey, consisting of a square tower of the church, which is supported by pointed arches, sustained on four finely clustered columns, about twenty-four feet in height, and of excellent workmanship. The roof of the church rested on semicircular arches, with clustered pillars, and a fascia, which is yet to be traced above the remaining arches. The width of the choir appears to have been only twenty-five feet. The ruins are overrun with ivy, and are delightfully embowered in stately sycamores and other trees. Ranulph de Meschiens founded this monastery in 1134, for a colony of Cistercians who were detached from Furness Abbey. It subsequently received many valuable grants. At the Dissolution it shared the common fate of the Eomish ecclesiastical establishments. Its yearly revenue at that time amounted, according to Speed, to =f?64 : 3 : 9. Near the Abbey is the neat residence of Captain Irwin, in whose grounds the ruins stand. In the churchyard at Gosforth, six miles from Egre- mont, there is an ancient stone pillar, surmounted by a cross, which is nearly perfect. The pretty village of Nether Wastdale is four miles beyond Gosforth. It has two inns (Strands and another), at which boats for sailing on Wastwater may be procured (see page 134). I \ . ITINERARY. I. ULVERSTON CONISTON LAKE A11BLESIDE, 24 Mile?. Id .. ON RIGHT FROM ULVBRST. 11 ULVERSTON. IB CM LKPT FROM ULVER8T. ,. On the shore of the Leven .(Estuary to Penny Bridge, J. P. Machell, l!ij Penny Bridge. 3J Esq. Bridge Field, Joseph Penny, Along the left bank of the Crake to The Crake issues from Conis- ton Lake, and enters the Leven Esq. 16 5?"@ cr. Lowick Bridge. 6 near Penny Bridge. The extensive iron forge of Messrs. Harrison, Ainslie, and Co. 15 Along the right bank of the Crake to 7 Here are the remains of a fine old hall, part of which is occu- pied by a former. 14 Nibthwaite, 8 Two promontories extend near the foot of Water Park, Benson Harri- Into the lake near Its foot, son, Esq. Fine view of the which have a most picturesque mountains round the head of effect. One is terminated by the lake. steep rocks, and both become Insulated when the lake is CONISTON LAKE. From an eminence near the highest promontory, a beauti- swollen. Along the east shore of ful view of the lake may be ob- Brantwood, Mrs. Copley, on tke left. 8i which the road passes to 131 tained. On the opposite shore, are the dark Fells of Torver. Coniston Bank, Wm. Brad- T 13$'Furtherup, Coniston Hall.sur- shaw, Esq., on the left. roivded with trees, is descried. bTent Lodge, rmerly the residence of Miss ^lizabeth Smith, a lady of ex- traordinary acquirements. Hi 14 This hall has changed owners but twice since the Conquest, most of which time it has be- longed to the Flemings. Be yon- 1 are the towering Fe>) rj Waterhead House, James Waterhead Hotel. Cobton. Just below, u the Marshall, Esq. rocky islet, Peel. The hotel stands pleasingly 8 14 This lake, called also Thur- I On the margin of the lake ; boats, post-horses, and guides, To Coniston Vill. 1 mile. ston Water, Is six miles long, **-d nearly three-quarters of a can be supplied. A few days might be spent agreeably here, To Hawkshead, 3 miles. mile -road, it depth is stated tt oe 162 feet. I ts margin is very as the excursions in the vicinity are numerous. The Old Man To Bowness, 8 miles. refntlar, having few indenta- tions of any magnitude. Two is in the immediate neighbour- hood ; its ascent, though a work of toil, would highly gratify the Tourist. A walk into the nar- row valleys of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, will afford many On quitting Waterhead Inn, the road winds round the grounds of Waterhead House, and is on the ascent for some distance. The lake small islands are situate near the eastern shore. Its prin- cipal feeders are the stream* from Yewdale and Tilberth- waite, and those running from the tarns on the Man Moun- grand scenes. Newfield, in the presents a striking retro- tain. It abounds with trout retired vale of Seathwaite, can spect from the summit of and char; the latter fish is be reached by the Walna Scar road, which passes through the ascent. thought to be found in greater perfection hen than elsewhere. Church Coniston, and under The scenery at the foot is tame, the Old Man. This road, which but thatattheupperextremity Is very mountainous and rough, is of the grandest description. is six miles in length. 45 Borwick Ground. m The Old Man, (2577 feet,) and Rlelham Tarn Wetherlam, (8400 feet' are ex- tremely majestic. The greatest portion of the lake belongs to Uv. Sir R. Fleming of Rvdai Hall, who has some valuable Pull Wyke, a bay of Winder- copper mines upon the Old mere, heae makes an advance. Wansfell Holm, J. Hornby, 21 Road to the Ferry. IM fine T^ew of the Rydal and Esq., Dove Nest, and Low Ambleside Mountains. Wood Inn, are pleasing objects on the opposite shore. Wans- Loughrigg Fell is before tb fell Pike (I960 feet) rises above. li ^$0 cr. Brathay Bridge. 20} eye. Brathay Hall. enter Westmorland. As the road winds round the Clappersgate Vill. Croft Lodge, James Holmes, extremity of Loughrigg Fell, ^Vk Esq. the mountains surrounding the [valley of Ambleside are strik- -^^ cr. Rothay Bridge. ingly unfolded. AMBLESIDE. 22 I ... 214 II. RKNDAL-BOWNKSS-HAWKSHEAD CONISTOV. IS Mils jji . ox JUOHT rRov KENOAL. S'S gf ON LEFT FROM KeXB'.L. > j fc w KENDAL. CM Kenilal must be left by the mid over the House of Correc- tion hill. 1G 13) Turnpike Gate. iOver moorish and hilly ground to Crook vill. 2 4} 7J St. Thomas' Church. Keep to the lefi the real en tt right is t Ambleside Furness Fells in the diotan Howness village, half-a-mile ! 10J First view of Windermere. foreground. Ifo-tn. Storr's Hall, Ret. T. too* to the right. ^ In crossing, the views up the iake, and of the mountains round the head, are extremely fine N FERKY. Between the two promon- tories, the lake is only 400 Berkshire Isle, and a little beyond, the Storr's Point pr- jectt. At the Ferry Inn, en- quire for the Station House. [How, on the east margin, is yards across. The Ferry 'boats are kept on the Lan- cashire side. whence there Is a splendid view of the lake. " This vagrant owl hath learn'd Howness, with its church, school, and villas, is a pretty object, lielle Isle on the right. Stran- persare allowed tolind. Itcon- 91 Ferry Inn. Enter Lancashire. his cheer On the banks of Windcnnere ; 8} Where a band of them make merry, Mocking the man that keejw the Ferry, fciiiis upwards of thirty acres. i Hallooing from an open throat M r. Curwen's house, of a circu- lar shape, is upon it. 7 Sawrcy vill. , , Like travellers shouting for a boat." From the summit of the .ascent from the Ferry, Ingle- 'bcrough is visible. along the east shore of ESTHWA1TE LAKE, Wordtmorth'i Waggoner.. Laagdale Pikes are visible:- on the right is the Pass of Dun-, The Old Man is insight. This lake is two miles in and round its head to mail Raise, to the east of which are Helvellyn, Seat Sandal, and length and one-third of a mile Fairfield. The apex of Skid- lin breadth. The scenery around 5 HAWKSHEAD. 10 daw is seen through Dunxnai) Raise gap. a'tiy 5 features 'of "grandeur. AJ ^ nn - R d Lion. Hawkshead is a small but peninsula swells from the west; shore, and pleasantly relieves' 'the monotonous regularity of the margin. The stream which To Ambleside, 5 miles. To Newby Bridge, 8 miles. ancient market-town at the head of the vallev of Esthwaite. The old hall where the AbboU of Furness held their Courts, Issues from it, is calledthe Cun- To Ulverston, 16 miles. is a (arm-house, lying about a ev; it enters Windermere a mile distant. St. Michael'e ml le and a half below the Ferry. [Many handsome villas enliven Church, a structure of great, antiquity, is placed on a rocky' the banks of the lake. Inapondl eminence immediately over the 'town, commanding fine views 'noating'is^nd', havi'n^'upon U Over elevated ground to 'of the adjacent country. Cveral small trees. At the termination of the cent, the lake and vale of 1 Coniston Waterhead Inn, an excellent Hotel, beauti- 17 - tne grassy church- yard hangs Upon a slope above the village school." ;Coniston, hemmed in by mag- fully situated on the mar- This school was founded ini nificentmountains.breakupon p of thp lalrc npar it the eye with almost theatricall Z, B UK6> nf ,1585, by Archbishop Sandys, a member of an ancient family surprise. still seated in the neighbour-' Waterhead House, Marshall, [hood. The poet Wordsworth,: Esq., on the left. and his brother, the late Mas- 1 Usr of Trinity College, COM-', Coniston Village lies imme- diately under the Man moun* bridge, were educated here. ID! the verses of the former, allu. tain, half a mile from the west- CONISTON VILL. 18 2-r\!f f? uently TV *?, ern margin of the lake. It has The antique market village,' two small inns. where were passed 1 My school-days." From Coniston village, or Hotel, at Waterhead, a mountain road, five and a half miles in length,; muses through Tilberthwaite, between Oxen Fell Cross on the right, and Wetherlam on the left, and Great Langdale. Another road, five miles in length, passing through Yewdale, and climbing the moor' ion the east of Oxen Fell, enters the road leading from Ambleside to Little Langdale, half a mile above) ISkelwith Bridge. I.\ pleasing excursion round the bike might be made by Tourists staying at the Waterhead Inn. Coniston I Tillage, one mile ; Coniston Hall, formerly a seat of the Flemings of Kydal, but now a farm-house, two I ,mile ; on the left, some elevated fells are then interposed between the road and lake. Torver village,! three and a half miles. A little beyond Torver Church, turn to the left, the road crosses the rivulet .flowing from Gateswater, which lies at the foot of Dow-Crag on the Old Man, and approaches the lak I at Oxen Houses, five and a half miles. A short distance from the foot, Bowdray Bridge over the Crake, eilii and a half miles. Nibthwaite village, nine miles, by the east margin to Waterhead Inn, 17 miloo. I III. KEN1JAL TO AMBLES1DE, 14 Miles. 215 j Sj = 2 , ON (ilUHT PROM KRNTAL. KENDAL. H ; ON I.SPT PROM KENIM.L. *< lif. (Kendal must be left by the 14 Wd over the House of Correc- Fine views on the right of tion Hill. the valley of Kendal. Snap and St Thomas' Church. llowgill FelU in the distance. Keep to the right. 12 2 Bond on the left to liowness. Obelisk. Tolson Hall, SU u< a . 71 A. '111:11 1. The valley of Kentmere diver- 10 Staveley vill. 4 Ings Chapel was erected at ges to the right. It is five or six \miles long, and pent in by the jhuge mountains of Hill Bell, [(2436 feet.) High Street, (2700 Ifeet,) and Harter Fell. The Watered by the Kent, upon which there are seve- ral bobbin, and woollen uiills. the expense of Richard Bate- man, a Leghorn merchant. He was a native of the township ; and, being a clever lad, he was sent by the inhabitants to Lon- iremains of a Roman road, the From the road between the don. He rose by diligence and highest in England, are still to fourth and fifth milestones industry, from the situation be traced upon the two former. Collision Fells are visible. a menial servant to be his At Kentmere Hall, a ruined peel-tower, now occupied as a 7? Ings ( Impel. N master's partner, and amassed a considerable fortune. For Iform house, Bernard Gilpin, some years he resided at Leg- " the Apostle of the North," horn, whence he forwarded the was horn 1517. slabs of marble with which the The pedestrian, after as- chapel is floored. His story is kxmding High Street, which alluded to in Wordsworth's icommands an extensive pros- "Michael;" but his tragical pect, might descend to Haws 1 Water, or intoMartindale, pro- end is not told. The captain of the vessel in which he was Iceeding thence to Patlerdale. ailing to England, poisoned him, and seized the ship and Bannerigg Head. 7f cargo. First view of Windermere- Orrcst Head, John Braith- Orrest Head. From this eminence, and waite, Esq. A mile beyond is F.Ileiay, which belonged to the Road on the left to Bow- hence to the lake, splendid views of the mountains in the late Professor Wilson of Edin- ness, two miles. west are commanded. Lang. burgh. The view from the front of the house is very fine. Birtuwaite. 9 dale Pikes, from their peculiar shape, are easily known. Bow- Railway Terrain-is fell, a broad topped mountain, Windermere Hotel. IB on the south. Belween the two.Oreat End and Greal Gable St Catherines, Karl of Brad- 5 Cook's House. Road on the left to Bow- are seen. On the south of Bow- 1 fell, Scawfell Pike may be seen in clear weather. Farther south ness. On the right a road leads through Troutbeck, over Kirkstone, and de- are Crinkle Crags, Wrynose, Wetherlam and Coniston Old, Man. To the southeast of Lang dale Pikes, in the foreground, isv scends to Ulleswater. Loughrigg Fell ; farther back,; are Fairfield and Scandale. Road alone the banks of the stream to Troutlck vill, one and a half miles distant. At the turn of the road, a little 4 3$Q cr.Troutbeck Bridge. 10 1 Calgarth Park, built by the eminent Bishop Watson. beyond the eleventh milestone, the mountains round Amble- side vale open out in a beauti- On the margin of Winder- mere, This portion of the route IB eminently beautiful. ful manner. An excellent establishment 2 Low Wood Inn. 12 Loughrigg Fell Is seen on the on the margin of the lake opposite shore. At its foot, There is a fine expanse of water To Bowness, 4 miles. Brathay Hall, 6. Kedmayne, visible from the windows. The tourist will find employment for many days in rambling about the adjacent country, or boating upon the lake. Wancfcll Holm, J. Hornby. To Hawkshead by the Ferry, 9 miles. To Newby Bridge, 12 miies. Esq. Dove Nest, a house Inhabit- ed, during one summer, by Mrs Hemans, is a short dis- tance farther on the right. Waterhcad House Thomas Jack-en, KM). 1 Toll bar ; head of the Lake. 13 Waterside, Mr Nfwton, AMBLESIDE. 14 Road to Clnpprtjxt*. 1 216 IV. AMBLESIUE RYDAL ORASMERE THIRLEMERR KKSWJCK, 1C Miles. JON RIGHT FROM AVBLESID it !l CNLEFTKHOK /.VBLSSID8 * fc < 1 Green Bank, Benson Harri AMBLESIDE. 1 son, lisq. Fairfield, (2950 feet,) with its offshoots, closing in the vale Behind is Wansfell Pike. 15} S?8 cr. Scandale Beck. I Loughrigg Fell bounds the vale upon the left. lj Through the meadows on There is a pretty peep into the glen through which Rydal Beck runs. the lea, the Rothay flows. A tall straight oak, growing in the wall, Is called " Lord's Oak - Pelter Bridge. The road over it divides into two on the other side, one leads back to Amble- side, the other to Grasmere, Rydal Hall (Her. Sir R. Flem- ing,) seated in large park con- taining some noble trees. There 14} RYDAL ViLL. 'both extremely beautiful walks. 1J Loughrigg Fell here projects, land with a corresponding pro- are two cascades within the trusion from Fairfield, called park, shown on application at 'the lodge. Rydal Mount. Wordsworth's residence stands a little above Glen Rothay, William Ball Esq., at tlie turn of the road Rydal Knab, on the opposite side of the valley, leaves room for little more space than what: is occupied by the road and the stream flowing from Rydal the chapel, built by Lady le Mere. Fleming in 1824. A splendid view of the valley obtained by climbing the height* behind RYDAL LAKE. This lake is only about three- quarters of a mile long, by ivyaal Mount. scarcely a fourth of a mile broad. The Knab, a house formerly occupied by the English Opium Eater, and by Hartley Coleridge, eldest son of Samuel T. Cote- The towering heights o: Knab Scar on the right Loughrigg Fell on the left It has two small islands, upon one of which there is a heronry, belomting to Rev. Sir. R. Flem- ing, the owner of the lake. ridge the poet. Excavations of great size have been made here. At this place 12J White Moss Slate Quarry. n The road here winds round a projecting rock. Grasmere the old road to Grasmere Lake suddenly breaks upon the branches off. It is shorter. view beyond the projection. And to be preferred by those on foot, for the fine views it com- Along the margin of mands of Rydal and Grasmere lakes. It leads part " The Wishing Gate." GRASMERE LAKE. Brown's Lake Hotel. This lake is one mile and a quarter in length, and one-third of amile broad. Ithasasinele One of these cottages was Wordsworth's dwelling for 191 Town End. -i island in the centre. The hills is around are happily disposed. | seven years, De Quincey after- wards resided in it for some time. Road on the left to Gras- mere village, a sweet little Parties staying at Grasmere or the Swan, should visit Ease- dale, a recess of Grasmere. It. place, near which is Allan Bank, Thomas Dawson, Esq., and the Cottage, . ver How is seen over" the south- west angle of the water ; right: onward, is Helm Crag, the sum- contains a lonely tarn, sur- Mrs. OrrelL mit of which is strewn with rounded by lofty rocks. arge blocks of stone, presenting many eccentric forms. Green " Who does not know the fam- 111 Swan Inn, ., thought he saw a likeness to a 2 lion and a lamb. West, to a A mile beyond the inn, a mountain road strikes off into The ascent of Helrellyn is lot unusually commenced lere. mass of antediluvian remains, and Otley says, that viewed from Dunmail Raise, a mortar Patterdale, climbing on the elevated for throwing shells in- way a steep haws between Fair to the valley, is no unapt com- Field and Seat Sandal, and pas- parison. The road is seen to sing a desolate sheet of water,' called Grisedale Tarn, lying; between Seat Sandal, and Hoi- vellyn. 1 f 1 >au over Dunmail Raise, a de- >ression between two hi' Is, thatj m the left, is Steel Fell, the >thcr. Seat Sandal. I. . 1 i AMBLKSlDfi TO KESW1CK. Continued. 217 ON KtOHT PROM AMBLE8ID. I n i| ii | ON LEFT FROM AH HI hSIOO. beat Sandal. 103 Toll Bar. 5i Helm Crag, The road rises gradually RUr Field. until it attains the height Fine retrospective views : from ilie summit, Skiddaw is visible.] of 720 feet, at the pass of The tradition is, that Dun- mail, King of Cumberland, was defeated here by Kdmund the 4 DUNMAIL RAISE. fl " Thev now have reach'd thatl pile of stones, Heap'd over brave King Dun-j Saxon king, In 945. A cairn, Enter Cumberland. He who once held supreme still in part remaining, was raised as a memorial of the vic- Last king of rocky Cumberland; tory. The conqueror put out the eyes of his adversary's two Steel Fell on the left. His bones, and those of all his sons, and gave the territory to Malcolm, king of Scotland, to preserve the peace of the north- Seat Sandal on the right. power, Slain here in a disastrousi hour."- IVordimorih. ern part of the kingdom. , i Thirlemere is in view. The road is too near the foot of Helvellyn to allow any notion to be formed of that mountain's 8i Nag's Head, Wytheburn. | 73 The village, called local)} The ascent of Helvellyn from this inn is shorter, but steeper, than from any other place. immense height. " the city," is half a mile distant on the left. Opposite the inn, is the chapel which Wordsworth describes as Armboth House, Late W.Jack- " Wytheburn's modest house son, Esq., on the west shore. of prayer, As lowly as the lowliest dwell- ing." Half way down the lake on the right, are some houses call- ed Fisher's Place, near which p.re some pretty cascades formed bv a stream flowing off Hel- THIRLEMERE LAKE, called alsoWytheburnWa- ter and Leathes Water, washing the base of Hel- Eagle Crag is seen hanging over the upper end of the lake, a sheet of water, environed by frowning precipices, two and a half miles long, 500 feet above vellyn. vellyn. the level of the sea, and about 100 feet in depth. There is a Pedestrians frequently cross small island near the shore at its Armboth Fell to the village of foot. It is so narrow as to allow Watendlath, proceeding thence a wooden bridge to be thrown to Keswick. Splendid views of across its middle. To obtain Derwentwater are obtained in some picturesque views, the the descent. Near the foot ol lake should be crossed by this Thirlemere, one extremity oi bridge, and the road on the the vale of St. John is passed. west shore taken, which joins The views along it, with Sad- dleback beyond, are verv fine. The celebrated " Castle Rock" stands at the entrance on the 6 Road on the right through St. John's Vale. 10 the turnpike road, a little be- yond the twelfth mile-stone. Raven Crag is a fine object near the foot. This lake is the pro- right. " From a field on the perty of T. S. Leathes, Esq., eastern side of the road, and a whose residence, Dalehead little short of the tenth mile- 43 *&& cr. Smeathwaite Hi House, is in the neighbour- stone, the view of the vale of St. John presents a most singularly interesting assemblage of the wild and the lovely." Green. Bridge over St. John's Beck, which issues from Thirlemere. hood. Shoulthwaite Moss, backed by a rocky hill called Bend. Naddle Fell. Hence may be seen the three mountains, Skiddaw, Saddle 2 Causey Foot 14 A farm-house on the left, shaded by wood, is named] back, and Helvellyn. Causey Foot. From this place, there is the view of the vale of the Derwent and its two lakes, which Gray U 1 Summit of Castlerigg. Road on right to Druid's Circle 143 When the pedestrian reaches! a piece of open ground in the descent, he is advised to enter legrctted *> much to leave nk'ddaw ia immediately before ,th. eye. KESWICK. 16 one of the fields on the left, to, obtain a view of the whole ex-j panse of Derwentwater. 218 v. iMBLESlDE LANGUALE ESKDALE EGKEMON'l WHITEHAVEN, 38 Miles. The whole of this route is seldom travelled continuously; but as most of it will be traversed in detached portions, it has U-t-n thought better to place the total distance under one description, from winch the Tourist may select the sections he requires. In consequence of there being no inn at which post horses are kept between Ambit-side and Calder Bridge, carriages cannot pursue this route. ;g .g: " ON 111UI1T 1'KuM A11BLCSIUK. g . 1? ONLE " TROM " 1BIJttIUE ' fa AMBLESIDE. -fffif cr. Rothay Bridge. Croft L-jdge, James Holmes Esq. 37 Clappersgate vill. l A road on the left, leading to Hawkshead, crosses the Bra* thay and enters Lancashire. Two mite and a half from On thebanksof the Brathay, Sweeter stream scenery, with Ambleside, a road turns into Brathay Chapel. Great Lanedale ' richer fore and loftier back grounds, is no where to be seen There is a waterfall a short 35 &$ cr. Skelwith Bridge. 3 within the four seas WILSON. feenrhelghT The "views of Enter Lancashire. Ro-id deviates betw Langdale Pikes are extremely Having crossed the bridge, two bridges, passing on the From the terrace attained soon after passing Sketwith Br. the road on the right lead- ing up a steep lull must be east of Oxen Fell through Yew . dale to Coniston. there is a superb view of Elter- -vu. water, and of Great and Little! A little above the bridge in Langdale, separated by Ling-' a deep dell near the road is a fine waterfall called Colwith Road Into Great Langdale 331 skirting the head of Elterwater Tarn. -f$j cr. Colwith Bridge. Re-enter Westmorland. , , Force, 70 feet in height. One * mile beyond, Little Langdale iTarn is perceived. Wether- lam, a stupendous mountain, gmoor. rises on the soiith of the tarn. A road bends to the right ; and, after passing Blea Tarn, enters the head of Great Lang- 31 Fell Foot. 7 Mountain raid through Til- berth waite to Coniston,5 miles. The toilsome ascentof Wry- dale. Along this road the Pikes nose is commenced at this wear their boldest features. place. The retrospective views The road winds steeply to are fine. Wansfell Pike is seem the summit of KThe Carrs. and Coniston Fells. At tne spot where the Coun- ties of Cumberland, Westmor- land, and Lancashire unite, 29i WRYNOSE, 8J (Pronounced locally Itaynus. Traces of a Roman road over both Hardknot 'and Wrynose the Three Shire Stones are Enter Lancashire. are yet remaining. placed. | Descend to - The ascent of Hardknot is be- gun ; the highest part of the hill is on the right. 271 Cockley Beck Bridge, over the Duddon. 10i The Duddon bends at this place; and, passing throujrh the beautiful vale of Senth- Enter Cumberland. waite, enters Morecambe Bay,i near Brouch ton. The distance From this summit there i s a - . magnificent view of Scawfell 25 Pike and Scawfell. On the left the Irish Sea is seen ; and, in Summit of HARD KNOT. between Cocklev Beck and 121 Broughton j, y the road is 12: imiles. The pedestrian isstrong- jly advised to traverse this val-! clear weather, the Isle of Man. |ley, unsurpassed in picturesque Half way down the hill, and and retired beauty by any other about 12(i yards from the road. |in the Lake district. It may are the faintly visible remains 'be approached from Conistoni of a Roman fortification called 'by the Walna Scar road. There! Hardknot Castle, once a place lis an inn at Newfield, 4 or 6! of importance. imiles down the valley. The 1 . that lone camp on Hard- Descend into Duddon is the subjectofa series) knofa height. Whoe Ouardiana bent the knee to ESKDALE. ol sonnets by Wordsworth. This beautiful vale is watered' Joye and Marl. bv the Esk, which, after a' The mountains encircling Xskdale, are the Seathwaite 24| -|$Q cr. Esk Bridge. 1 -U course of about 16 miles, enters "^ the sea near Ravenula. The Fell* on the left, and projec- tions from Scawfell on the valley is narrow at the spot where it is entered, but it widens rapidly towards the Tight. west. It contains two or three hamlets and a few scattered houses. Great numbers of sheep; I are pastured in it. AMBLESIDE TO \VHJTEHAVKN.~ Contw 219 OK RIUHT !> UULXSIDB. The Wool Pack, a small Inn, it a short distance from the road. The inn Is a little to the right of the road. At thit ai'e a mountain road leaves fekdale,and pawing Burumoor Tarn, enten Wastdale Head .between the Screes and Scaw- (fell, miles. Ihe latter moun- Itain may be ascended from 'Kskdale. i LOn elevated ground, 4 miles ii t li of Rout, there is a lonely Itarn, with a rocky island in it* centre, called Uevoke Water. About half a mile from its foot are some ruins called Barn- scar, which, according to tradi- 1 tion, were a ]>anish city. The .situation is marked by several Ismail piles of stones. Mo record |of such a place has, however, 1 |Come down to us. A number Hero a road diverges to Nether Wastdalf village, one mile from the foot of Wast Water. From I.atterharrow an eminence, under which the road passes, there is a fine view of the like. Road to strands, four miles. 23 ! Oawson Ground. Bout viU. mile above this br laru the remains of Calder ;!:., founded in 1 134, for me .of the Cistercian order. The abbey stands on the grou {pertaining to Captain Irwin's Incidence. Reekie Grove, F. L. B. Dyke* Esq. i Innvell. Mrs Gunson. ,mer Grove, ilajor Sped- ding. 8 cr. Bridge over the Mite. Fine view of the coast from the road between the two bridges. I ' J$g cr . Santon Bridge, across the Irt, which flows! from Wast Water. Gosforth vill. % cr. Calder Bridge. EGREMONT.* WHITEHAVEN. 20 21* Hirker Force, a flne cascade,] may be wen from amongst the cliffs. The i ound are very grand. At the schoolhouse a roadl strikes off to the left, conduct-! ing to Dalegarth Ball, now a; (arm house, but formerly a| residence of the Stanleys of! Ponsonby, at which directions will be given to a noble water- fall, called Stanley Gill or Dalegarth Force. The stream is crushed three times by wood' :en bridges on approaching the full. The chasm is exceedingly grand. Returning, the Esk< dale and Wastdale mountains, with .Viwfci] amongst them, t in fine outline, to Bavenglass, a small town, HI miles from Diversion, and 16 miles from U'hi tehaven, seated in an arm of the sea at the confluence of the Esk.irti and Mite. Muncaster Castle, Lord Muncaster's seat, is near it. Black Combe, a lofty hill, 7 miles to the south of the town, commands an extensive view of the coast. The Welsh mountains, and the Isle of Alan, are within the boundary of the view. In the churchyard is a stone pillar of great antiquity, covered with illegible carv- Ponsonby Hall, Wm. Stan- ley, Esq. Here there are two good inns. Spring F;eld, Eobt. Jeffer- on Eq. Linethwaite, George Harrison, House, Henry ,n, Esq. distance of two) * Egremont Is a neat market town, containing about 2500 Inhabitants, seated at the d miles and a half from the coast, upon the banks of the Ehen, the stream which flows from Knnerdali Lake. It is stated to have been a borough at the period when Parliamentary representatives were unerated for their services ; and that, to avoid the expense of a member, the burgesses petitioned to have the burgh disfranchised, which was accordingly done. The Parish Church is an ancient edifice, dedicated te St Mary. It was granted by William de Meschiens to the Cell of St Bees Upon an fmin-nice to the west of the town stand the ruins of Egremont Castle, formerly a place of great strength and importance. It was built by the above named William de Meschiens soon after the Norman Con- quest. In the lapse of time it passed into the possession of the Lucy family. There is a tradition respecting the fortress whilst belonging to the Lucies, which Wordsworth has versified in some stanzas entitled, " The Horn of Egremont Castle." General Wyndham is the present owner of both the Man< and Castle of Kirremont. Large quantities of iron ore are excavated in the neighbourhood, which are conveyed to Whitehaven unsmelted, and thence shipped to South Wales. St Bees, at which th fine Conventual Church, Is two and a half miles distant. A good road, of seven miles in length, conducts to the foot of Ennerdale Lake. The distances from Egremont to the neighbouring towns are, Baven- , 11 mi IBS ; Broughton, 20 miles; Ulverstou, 30 miles; Cockermouth, 13 miles ; ilaryport, 20 miles. 220 VI. WH1TEHAVEN COCKKKMOUTH BASSBNTHWAIT2 LAKE KESWICK, 2? Miles. OH RI3KT FROM WHITCH A. s! ll 3N Lttt FROM WKITKirA. 8 WHITEHAVEN. ""* I Scilly Bauk, WO feet. A handsome freestone aroh. In the neighbourhood of Moresby, is the site of Arbeia, ,a Roman station, where various Antique remains have been dis- with an entablature adorned with the arms of the Lowther amily, spans the road on leav ng the town for the north. covered. All marks of the station have been long defaced by the plough 24J 2J Moresby Church: Moresby Rose Hill, Gilfrid Hartley, 24 Moresby Vill. s Hall, MissTate. ;fcq. Parton and Harrington, two Roseneath, Mrs. Solomon. small sea-ports.are near M ores-! Road to Lowes Water. 23i 33 by. Prospect, Capt. Caldecott. 22 Distington Vill. 5 At the south-end of the vil. Gilgarron (Walker). age, are the ruins of Hayes Castle, once the residence of the The road Is for some miles in Moresby family. the valeoftheDerwent. This river takes its name on issuing from Derwentwater. It subse- quently enters Bassenthwaite 203 3righam Chapel on the left. The village is half a mile ea Road to Workington. Lake, and finally, after winding to the right. Junction of the road froraj through a pleasant country, iVorkington to Cockermouth. enters the sea at Workington. These towns are eight milei A description of this town is 13 COCKERMOUTH, 14 rom each other. The former appended to No. VII. seated on the Derwent, at the junction of the Cocker. s a sea-port, carrying on a. considerable coasting trade. There are several extensive! Sale Fell. The valley through which the road passes, is watered by 10 Wheat Sheaf. 17 collieries in the neighbourhowl,', chiefly belonging to H. C. Cur- wen, Esq. of Workington Hall. a small stream, which enters fii BASSENTHWAITE 181 Road to Carlisle, skirting the the large bay, near the foot o LAKE. foot of the lake. IJassenthwaite Water, called This lake is approached at Peel Wyke. ts widest part. It is four mile* The opposite shore is plea- santly indented with several promontories, the three princi- pal of which are called Scar- 8 Pheasant Inn. 19 in length, about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and] seventy-two feet in extreme, depth. Skiddaw on its east side, fur- There is a fine breadth of cul GJ Smith; Green. 20} nishes, in combination with t he- tivated land, sprinkled with water, many splendid views. inmlets and solitary houses Beyond the head, are Wallow letween the lake and the moun ;ains. The road traverses a thickly The road passes along the margin of Bassenthwaite Water. and Falcon Crags, backed by Bleaberry Fell and High Seat. At the foot of Skiddaw, is Dodd Fell, and in the distance HeU wooded country, at the base o vellyn is visible. In front of a Wythop Fells, Barf, and Lord- portion of Skiddaw, called Long Seat. One of West's station Side, and near the margin of is at Beck Wythop, whence the lake, stand Bassenthwaite savs he, the whole cultivated Church and Mirehouse, the re- land, between the lake and th 33 Thorntliwaite Vill. 23; sidence of J. 8. Spedding, Esq. mountains, is seen in all its beauty, and Skiddaw appears nowhere of such majestic heigh A road, nine miles in length. as from this place. 1 2 -?$S3 cr. the stream from Newlands. 25 leads through Newlands to- Buttermere. The lower part of the vale it picturesque, the Many pretty villas adorn thl N Portingcale Vill. 25; upper, wild. ittle Tillage. From eminence! ,n the neighbourhood, viewi Long Bridge Grisedalc Pike, * ne object. both of Derwentwatpx and Raj Mmth wtir* La j ear* command M. KESWICK. 27 Greta Hall, the residence of the late Robert outhej _J VII. KESWICK BORROWDALE BUTTERMERE SCALKHILL 221 COCKERMOUTH, 25J Mites. ai -4 "1 ON RIGHT PROM KRfflViCS. M || ON LflFT POM KCBWtCS. I KESWICK. -2 r7 2-H Road to the take. , ' Vicar's or Derwent Isle. 25 Castle Head, an eminence from which there is a beautiful Lords Isle. Friar Crag pro- view of the lake. jects into the lake a little be- >ond. Cat Bells are fine objects Wallow Crag on the opposite shore, Griie- dale, and Causey Pikes are to Falcon Crag. the left of them. Behind Barrow House Is a. 234 Barrow House. 2 Road to the hamlet called cascade of 124 feet fall. S. Z. Lanptou Esq. Watendlath, placed near a tarn in a desolate and narrow The man; topped Skiddaw, vale. lifting its gigantic bulk beyond the foot of the lake, is a gram! 22* Lowdore Hotel. 3 Thrang Crag. The celebrated fall lies be- object. Crossthwaite Church hind the hotel, on the stream rill be observed lying at its running from Watendlath base. Southey lies interred here, and a recumbent effiiry of the Poet, cut in white marble, by Lough, has been 10 Borrowdale Hotel. 8i Tarn. Its height is 100 feet. Gowder Crag on the left, Shep- herd's Crag on the right of the ML erected to his memory. 1 Grange Bridge, and the vil- -'2 4 Grange Crag. lage of Grange. The road returns to Keswick by the west margin of Derwent Water. Bor- 201 Castle Crag on the right. | 6 There is a good view from this eminence. Shortly before rowdale, a valley 6 miles long, and containing 2000 acres, is now entered. It is watered, in its whole length, by the river range, which, after it issues " From the summit o) this rock the views are so singularly great and pleas- ing, that they ought never reaching this poixt, a road de- viates to, and passes, Bowder Stone, re-entering the mam road a little beyond. This mass; of rock has been likened to from Derwent Water, takes *.o be omitted." 1 the name of Derwent. At WEST. A stranded ship with keel up- Castle Crag the road and the Careless of winds or wave. >ed of the river occupy all the level portion, but beyond the It is 62 feet long, 36 feet high, vale widens considerably. A- and 89 feet in circumference. bove Rosthwaitc the valley di- It has been estimated to weigh vides into two branches ; the 1971 tons, and to contain 23,000 eastern branch is called Stone- cubic feet. The view hence is thwaite. Borrowdale formerly exquisitely beautiful. belonged to Furness Abbey. Here is a small inn. This is the widest part of the valley. 19J Rosthwaite vill. 6 Half a mile beyond, near Burrowdale Chapel, a road di- The mountain Glaramara is Wen in front. Scawfell Pikes, Scawfell and Great Gavel are verges to the valley and village of Stonethwaite. Eagle Crag it a fine rock near the latter. A teen over Seathwaite. mountain path proceeds over the Stake, a lofty pass, mto Langdale. . 18 *$E cr. Seatollar Bridge. 7i Near this bridge the road into Wastdale, by Sty Head, strikes off. The ascent of Buttermere Haws, which rises to the height of 1100 feet above the sea, is 17, Seatollar. Abraham Fisher, Esq. 8 The well known black lead mine, and the immense Bor- rowdale Yews, are near Seatol- now commenced. The retro- spective views are fine. A por- tion of Belvellyn is seen over Descend into Buttermere da\e. lar. The former is the only mine of the kind in England. The largest of the yews is 91 the Borrowdale and Armboth feet in girth. Fells. 15* Honistor Crag. 10 Honister Crag, 1700 feet high. Yew Crag. The upper part cf this vale is exceedingly wild tu>J unculti rated. Here are some valuable slate quarries belonging to General Wyndham. 222 KKSWiCK TO COCKERMOUTH. Continue*. l e i tl OK RIGHT PHOM KKSWlfK. _ 1 * OW LBFT FROM KJUSW1CX t j- Honister Crag. M4 V H A few bouses placed half i mile above the head of Butter mere Water, " under the mos 13 Gatescarth. 12 A mountain path conduct* by the pass called Scarf Cap it. to 'Ennerdale. Black Sail, Another extraordinary amphitheatre o mountainous rocks that eve r On the eastern margin of pass leads into Wasulali eve lieheld." 'This lake Is one and a hal BUTTERMERE LAKE The lofty mountains seen miles long, and half a mill above the opposite shore are broad ; and at its deepest par Hay Stacks, High Crag, High Is 90 feet deep. Char is taker plentifully. The distance be liJ Ilasness (General Benson 13 Stile, and Red Pike. Betw.in the two latter is a tarn, the tween this lake and Crummock on the left. stream running from which Water is about three quarters makes a pretty waterfall. of a mile. The Chapel has been lately rebuilt ; before, it was the most diminutive in the kingdom llj Buttermere vflL With a good Inn. Woodhouse (R. Jopson 14 Scale Force, the loftiest water, fall about the lakes, is 8 miles distant to the westof Crummock A road, nine miles in length climbs a steep Haws upwards ol 1000 feet hieh, and descending Esq.,) on the left. Along the eastern shore 01 Water. Its height is 1 is feet. A mountain path leads by this fall, and Floutern Tarn into 'into Keskadale and Newlands, proceeds to Keswick. CRUMMOCK WATER. Ennerdale, 6 miles. Having wound round a bo d This lake is about three miles promontory called Rannerdale' long by three quarters of a mile " The mountains of the Knott, a splendid view of the! broad. Its depth is in some' vale of Buttermere and lake is presented. Melbreak is parts 120 feet, itabounds with; Crummock are no where so a grand object on the other char and fine trout. 1 here are three small islands close to the shore at the head of the lake. impressive as from the bo- som of Crumraock Water." margin. From its foot there juts a narrow promontory, a little above which there is a WORDSWOKTH. remarkably fine view. The A little before reAching long- mountains on the east shor e 17 are Whiteless Pike, Ladhouse, left of the road, some high a . AIC i . *' Grasmoor, and Whites-de. [ground is interposed between (the road and the lake. The Four miles from Buttermere, iroad afterwards passes between the road frr.m Scale Hill to ! Haws on the left, and White- Cookennouth is entered. A 6ide on the right. turn must be made to the left. Lowes Water, which sends a 7 Scale Hill. 18J There is a good Inn at tliisj 'stream into Crummock Lake is about one mile and a half dis- tant. This lake is three quar- I'oulsyke (Misses Skelton). To Whitehaven, 1 4 miles by place, where the tourist wouldi do well to stay a few days. The village is about a quarter of a ters of a mile long, scarcel y on* Ullock and Moresby. mile from the river Cocker.j quarter broad, and about 60 feet in extreme depth. It lies To Egremont, 15 miles by i Lamplugh and Ennerdale which flows from Crummockl Water, and is here crossed by a bridge of five arches. A good/ and Blake Fell in the north! Bridge. jprospect is obtained from an The scenery round its foot is, contrary to the general rule, finest at its foot, and here it is To Calder Bridge, by the same places, 17 miles. eminence in Mr Marshall'! wood. The pedestrian may make his way by the stream very grand. Melbreak forms a striking feature in the views. To Keswick by Lorton and issuing from Floutern Tarn be- hind Melbreak into Ennerdale. Whinlatter, 12 miles. seven miles. Road under Whiteside to Keswick which shortens the distance by two miles. For 6 191! The road to Cockermouth passes through the ale of Lor- ton on the east bank of the horsemen and pedestrians it is the preferable route. Deviation of the road throneh Ixjrton Till, to Keswick. The famous yew free, " pride of I.orton vale," stands near the rBon of this road with that KfsnHcX to Cockem*iCuth. 4 3 Enter the Keswick and Cockermouth road. many richly picturesque vims. .. It is three miles in length.with "''Imany elevated hills around; but not lofty enough to rasl a g oom upon the smiling aspect 991 of the scenery. LorUm Hall. * R. Bridge, bq. 9 miles from Keswick. COCKERMOUTH. 25J 1 1 - - COCKERMOUTII. 223 COCKERMOUTII. COCKERMOUTH is an ancient borough, and neat market town, con- taining 4500 inhabitants, seated at the junction of the Cocker with the Derwent, from which circumstance it derives its name. It sent two representatives to Parliament as early as the twenty-third j - ear of Edward I. ; and, by the Reform Act, it has still the privilege of returning two members. The honour and castle of Cockermouth belong to Lord Leconfield. The ruins of this ancient fortress, formerly a place of great strength, are seated on a bold eminence which rises from the east bank of the Cocker. It was built soon after the Norman Conquest by Waldieve, first Lord of Allerdale, of whoso successors it w as for many centuries the baronial seat. In 1648 it was garrisoned for King Charles, but being afterwards taken by the Parliamentarians, was dismantled by them, and has ever since lain in ruins, with the exception of a small part which the late Earl of Egremont sometimes inhabited. The Gateway Tower, embellished with the arms of the Umfravilles, Multens, Lucies, Percies, and Nevilles, is a striking object. On the north side of the town is a tumulus, called Toot's Hill; one mile to the west are the remains of a rampart and ditch of an encampment, 750 feet in circuit, called Pitt's Wood On the summit of a hill at Pap Castle, a village one mile and a half south-west of Cockermouth, are the traces of a Roman rastrum. A great number of antique remains have been discovered at this place, and in the neighbourhood. The castrum was subse- quently the residence of the above-mentioned Waldieve, by whom it was demolished, and the materials used in the construction of Cocker- mouth Castle. This town has the honour of being the birth-place oi the poet Wordsworth, who was born here on the 7th of April 1770. Tickell, the poet, Addison's friend, was born at Bridekirk, two miles distant. The seats in the neighbourhood are Dovenby Hall (F. L. B. Dykes, Esq.), three miles north-west. Tallentire Hall (William Browne, Esq.), three and a half miles north. Isel Hall (William Wybergh, Esq.), three and a half miles north-east. Woodhall (J. S. Fisher, Esq.), two and a half miles north. Derwent Bank (John Steel, M.P.) The Higham (T. A. Hoskins, Esq.) The distances to the principal towns in the neighbourhood are Maryport, seven miles ; Workington, eight miles ; Keswick, by Whinlatter, twelve miles ; by Bassenthwaite Water, thirteen and a half miles ; Whitehaven, fourteen miles ; Wigton, sixteen miles ; Carlisle, twenty-seven miles. 224 VIII. XESWICK BOUROWDALE WAST WATER- KOHEMOM. ai Miles. ! aa a t OH klOHT KHOM KKBVTICK. I KESWICK. || 0! LEFT FROM KFWICK. fa &, For ~* miles the road is th _M 23J same as the former No. !$w3 cr. SeatolL-ir Bridge 71 "Travellers who may not have been accustomed to pay , Road to the left. attention to things so unobtru- 1 The wad mine is in a recess called Gillercoom, in the side o 22 r^fi cr. Seathwaite Bridge * sive," says Wordsworth, speak- ing of the rude bridges of this district, " will exouse me if I ]the mountain on the right The path crosses the stream a Far Bridge ; from this place an Keppel Cragand Hind Crag on the left. point out the proportion be- tween the span and elevation of the arch, the lightness of the 'immense mass of rock called Hanging Stone is visible. Near the mine are the famous yew trees. Advancing, Taylor's Gill forms a fine cascade after rain 21* Seathwaite vill. ^B cr. Stockley Bridge 9i parapet, and the graceful man- ner in which Its curve follow! faithfully that of the arch." The road winds precipi tously up Aaron End. Bay's Brown. Sty Head Tarn, a desolate Taylor's Gill Band. sheet of water, beyond which Saddleback is seen over Eor- Great End rises abruptly. Far- rowdale. 'ther on Is Scawfell Pikes. jSprinkling Tarn, which sends ;a stream Into Sty Head Tarn as half a mile to the east. These 19 Sty Head. 12 A magnificent pass elevated Itarns serve as guides in the 1 250 feet above the valley. The [ascent of the Pikes from Bor- rowdale. road descends very steeply be- tween Great Gable on the right, and Great End and Scawfell on I the left, to U'astdale Head, a. A mountain road of six miles 17 Wastdale Head 14 evel and secluded valley, of a conducts from Wastdale Head, few hundred acres, at the head Ibetween Lingmell and the of Wast Water, shut in bjr' Screes, into Eskdale. The ofty mountains that rise like pedestrian and horseman may walls from it. reach Ennerdale by the pass of {Black Sail, or, by traversing lanother pass called Scarf Gap, may enter Butterroere dale at Gatescarth. This path is six miles in length. 15* Head of Wast Water. 15* This lake is 3* miles in length, and about half a mile broad ; Overbeck makes a pleasing I4ft t^S cr. Overbeck Bridge. 16* its extreme depth is 270 feet. The grand mountains and bare 'the bridge. rocks around this lake, invesi The finest view of the valley ,1s observed from the north- west extremity of the Screes. Turn to see the pano- rama of mountains at the lead of the valley, Yew- arrow, Kirkfell, Great Jable, Lingmell, Scawfell t with a peculiar air of deso- ation. The Screes, whose sides ' shiver in all the subdued colours ofthe rainbow," extend along the whole length of the opposite shore, whilst the road 'ikes, and Scawfell. Buckbarrow Pike. Wastdalo Hall. N. Wastdale, a pretty village with two inns. The tourist 11 Nether Wastdale. 20 Galesyke, Mrs. Rawson. From a field fronting this. making it his head quarters for there is one of the best views, a few days, will and many plea- not only of the head, but of the sant excursions in the vici- whole body, of the lake. From nity. The view of Wast no other point of view are the Water commanded from Lat- .nlours of the Screes more terbarrow, a rocky hill in the beautiful, more majestic tin neighbourhood, is extremely Ine. A curious ravine called 7* f^fi cr. Bleng Bridge. 23* outline, more magnificent the Downing cliffs. Hawl Gill, in the south-east extremity of the Screes, is worth 7 Gosforth vilL 24 WlUOjr. The road from Gusforth tn a visit ; and those who are fond Ku-remont has ben Jewriucd of mountain rambles, may pass along the summit of the Screes 4 *&Q cr. Calder Bridge. 27 in No. V. and deucend to Wastdale Head. The viewj from this elevated EGREMONT. 31 tlttutixi uo magnificent. i | IX. KKSW1CK THHELKELD PENR1TH, 18 Mile*. 225 r.-S A (IV KIOHT FROM KK8WICK. II a ON LRFT HUM" KPcWlrK. KESWICK. One mile and three-quarter* 171 i Greta Bank Brl4t> from Keswick, on an eminence to the right of me old road to Ureta Bank, Thos. gpeddiui a* Penrith, is a Uruidical Circle. j Latrigg , " Skiddaw'* Cub." i. r >3 S^cr. Naddle Bridge.. 24 Koad into St. John's Vale, alto ]5i N through Matterdale to Ulle*- water and Patterdale, fourteen and a half mile* from Keswick. U3 -^8 cr. New Bridge. 34 The Ridding*, Joseph Cn sicr, Esq. Road into St. John'* Vale. 14 THRELKELD VILL. 4 " And see beyond that hamlet The road lie* under Saddle- back, a mountain of somewhat interior elevation to Skiddaw. Its summit is difficult of ac je*s, The stream watering this vale, is called the Glende- ramakin, until its conflu- small, The ruin'd towers of Threlkeld Hall." This hall was once the resi- but the views are extensive. On ence with St. John's Heck, dence of Sir Lancelot Threl- the south and east, it commands finer prospects than Skiddaw, but on other side* they are much intercepted. It* geolo- after which it is termed the Greta. keld, a powerful knight in the reign of Henry VII. It i* now occupied as a farm-house. The Earl of Lonsdale i* proprietor. gical structure is similar to that [Skiddaw. 12i Scales. 5} Road to Hesketh-new-Mar ket. ver moorish uninteresting From the hill near the eighth: Mell Fell, a conical hill, i-med of a curious conglome- rate. 11 ground. Moor End. 7 mile-stone from Keswick, there is a fine view over the vale of Threlkeld to the New-land's Mountain*. Road through Matterdale to 8J Troutbeck Rail. Station. 9J Road to Heaketh-new-Mar- Ulleswater. ket. Slate has now disappeared, and new red sandstone taken it* place. 63 Penruddock Vill. IU Greystock Castle, two mile* on the left. The park is very extensive. The mansion is a Observe the peculiar shape of Blencathara, fromwhich fine building, containing some good picture*. Greystock Church, built in the reign of the other name of that Edward II., contains some an- Road through Dacre to Pooley 5 mountain is taken. 13 cient monuments. Many relic* of antiquity abound in the Rridge, at the loot of Ulles- water. four miles. Dacre Castle, formerly the residence of the neighbourhood. famous border family of Dacre, has been con verted in to a farm- 2J house. The name is derived Stainton Vill. 15* One mile and a half to the right, Dalemain, E. W. Hasell, Esq. ancestors, at the siege of Acre- timesin the Holy Land under Richard Cceur de Lion. An- la n " /l "*" the road from Penrith to UUes- other branch of this clan was * Hence there is a charming view settled at Gilsland in Cumber- of the Vale of Penrith, and tht land. There are many ballad* mountain* circling Ulleswater, and tradition* which (till which lake is hidden by Dun. " proclaim mallet, a wooded hill at iu Douglas or Dacre'i conquering , foot. Yanwath Hall, i* Men name." on the bank*) of the Eamont, two miles from Penrith on Bede says, that monastery the right. once stood at Dtcre, and about 930, a congress wai held here, PENRITH 18 akinglll, L. Dent, K:o. at which King AtheUtan, ac- companied by the King of Cum- herland, received homage from Conriantinc, Kitg of Scotland. 226 X. PKHBITH- ULLSWATER PATTERDALE--KIRK8TONB- AMBLESIDE, 24j Mile*. . Instead of theflrst five miles nndthreequartersof the road given below, the Tourist may c KriiU- on the road to Kendal, turning to the right a little bevund, to Tanwath vill. (two mile*,) leaving Kmu Arthur's Rouml rahle on the left. Here is Tanwath Hall, an ancient castellated building, a good ipecimrn of the ci.l Westmorland Hall. Sockbridge vill. is a mile further. The hall at this place Is a ru.n le&erving the attention of the artist. Barton church ii ieen on the right a mile Uyond. Poole) Uridice is reached nve mile* and three quarters from Pennth. It las been recommended, that, In order to see the lower part of UlhWnter to advantage, the West- nor and margin should be traversed for three or four miles ; a boat might be in readiness to convey UM Krai er across the lake to the road usually taken. IflJ 2S ON RIGHT FROM PENRITH. E] || ON LKFT FROM PKNR1TH. 23$ PENRITH. Pursue the Keswick road , 4 Skirsgill, Mrs Parkin. Bead to Keswick. 22| for two miles. 2 Dalemain Park. Dalemain, E. W. Hasell, Esq.': Vaterfoot, Col. Salmon J. /T-v cr. the Dacre. Dunmallet upon which stands a Uoman fort. To reach Pooler Bridge a quarter of a mile distant at tne foot of the lake, a turn 18} ULL8WATER. 5i This lake is of a serpentine! shape, nine miles long, a milei wide, and about 200 feet in! must be made to the left. extreme depth. It is divided) The Sun is an excellent hotel. at Pooler Bridtre, where post- horses and boat* can be ob- tained. There is a good view of the lake from Dunmallet, a Rampsbeck Lodge on the left. by promontories into thrtei sections, called reaches, of un-j equal size, the smallest being] the highest, and the largest! hill near the village. Road to New Church, so railed, in distinction from Old Church, which stood on the margin of the lake. The for- 17 Watermillock. 7* islands adorn the uppermost, | the scenery around which taj of the grandest description. Halsteads, William Marshall, Esq. on a promontory, called! mer was consecrated by Bishop Skelley Neb. Oglethorpe in 1558, while on his way to crown Queen Eliza- Hallin Fell project* from the: opposite shore, and terminate* beth ; an office he had soon the first reach. Swarth Fell i] to regret having undertaken. below Hallin Fell ; between the, .when all the other prelates two, FuardMe Beck enters tne bad refused, for he as well as the other Roman Catholic H/shnps were shortly after- wards deprived. lake in the Uy termed How Town Wjke, This fine park, belonging to . , Henry Howard, Esq. of Corby, ls contains upwards of 1000 acre*. ;It is well stocked with deer. {At Sandwyke, on the opposite Enter Gowbarrow Park. N In Gowbarrow Park, say Wordsworth, the lover of N-. ture might linger for hours., Here is a powerful brook, which dBKhea amone rock* margin, a considerable stream 'called How Grain enter* the through a deep glen hung on ever)' *ide with a rich and lake. happy intermixture of native wood : here are beds of luxn- rian* fern, aged hawthurns, Und hollies decked with honey suckles : and fallow deer glanc- Lvulph's Tower, a hunting 101 seat, the property of Mr How- ^ lard. There is a splendid view Apply here for admis- sion to Airey Force. 11 ing and bounding over the lawns and through the thick- et*. rthe lake from the frofct. Lilt, ye who pall by Lyulphl -fj> cr. Airey Bridge. A mile above the bridge th stream is precipitated down a At ere ; how loftli then Doth Aira Fora, that torrent Road to Keswick through fall of eighty feet. Two wooden bridges are thrown across the hoa.no, I Speak Irom the wood; glen 1 Watterdale 10| miles. brook, one above the othn* l.Io the fall. The banks arel | Tit Biuic for a lolemn T.ie 1 beautifully wooded, and tne) UN h'.B wao calchf. on the gila Pie pirit o( c. mournful tile BxiMled in th- touud. I D " " W 1 tsceaerv around of inconceiv- able magnificence. Birk Fell rises rapidly from the opposjk* margin. PENRITH TO AMBLESIDE, Continued. 227 r BJt g^ ON -012HT PROM PSNRITH. 2^ J Olf LJ5XT mO J'KNalTU. Glencoyn House, an old pic- turesque farm house belonging to Mr Howard. HI -*$53 cr. Glencoyn Keck. Enter Westmorland. 12| A promontory from Brk Fell rmlntes the second rroob. Stybarrow Crag. This rock The flrst island, House Holm. merely allows room for the road between it and the lake. The ULLSWATEB HOTEL Glenriddlng House, Hey. H. dale landers.headed by a Moun- Askew. ey, once made a successful stand against a troop of Scottish mosstroopers.it this place. The 10i ^fi cr. GlenriddingBeck. 14 This stream take* iU rise U Keppel Cove and lied Tarni, which lie near the summit of reader was thereafter styled King of Patterdale^ ti tie borne tor many yean by his de- scendant*. Uclvellj n. That mountain may, be ascended through this glen.! Bilberry Crag. Place Fell, with a patch of Patterdale Hall cultivated ground on which are. A mountain road, practicable two farm house* lying at it* base, ha* a striking effect on only for horsemen and pedo trians, conducts through Grist- the opposite shore. dale into Grasmere. Patterdale Chapel. In the ^^ cr. Grisedale Beck. churchyard is one of the many targe yews which grow in this country. 9* Patterdale vilL 15 Two pood hotels at thii place, which, if the Tourist Queen's Hotel. have time, should be made his head-quarters for some davs, The streams from Grlsedale as there is much to see in the and Deepdale join their waters neighbourhood. shortly before entering the lake. Road Into Martmd.tle acro* Deepdale Beck. St Sundays Crag. 8* 1^0 cr. Deepdale Beck. jgi The road Is now through flat Brother's Water, backed by Dove Crags and other acclivi- ties, clothed with native wood. meadows on the banks of thel stream, to another branch, which flows from Brother's This small sheet of water is Water. said to take its name from the Hartsope Village. Hayes circumstance of two brothers having been once drowned in it r^ High Hartsope. 18 Watfr, a tarn well known to the angler, lies between High whilst skating. Street and Grey Crag, two mile* above HarUope. Angle Enter the common and Tarn in the same neighbour- hood Is noted for the superior climb the pass of flavour of its trout. The summit of the pass Is 8* Kirkstone. 21 Within the mind itrong fancies fenced in by the Red Screes on work. the right, and Woundale Head on the left. The large block of stone A deep delight the boiom tlmlli, Oft ai I pati along the fork trhoie Church-like frame Of theie fraternal hilli. stands on the right of the road. Thy daring in a vapoury bourn ; The Romans are supposed to Not celdom may the hour return have marched through this de- When thou ehalt be my guide. piession on their way north- }*>*> wards from the station at Am- bleside. Near the summit, a Whocomeinot hither ne'er ihall road diverges on the left into know, the valley of Troutbeck. At the How beautiful the vale below ; point of deviation, a small inn AMBLE8IDB. 24J Nor tan he gueu how lightly Imje has lately been erected. In the (descent, which is excessively Jteep, the views of Windermere The brook adowt Ik* rack; itMaa. Womwrovrn. nd the vale of Ambleside an ;very An* Wansfcll Pike in on the loft, Loughrigg fall on the tight oftlie vale. 228 XI. PKNiUTH SHAP-K END .\L, 20 Miles. si ii ON KIUHT FROM PKNBITH. g a -a ON LBFT FROM P8NRITB. s *". j Th Vicarage. At the corner of the field, at; the first lane on the right, be- 25 PENRITH. 1 cr. Eamont Bridge. 1 i Carleton Ball, John Ocnrptr. 1 The Eamont and Lowther! nrond Earaont Bridge, is King Arthur's Round Table. A short. distance down the lane, on the Enter Westmorland. ire tributaries of the Eden, be-, re entering which they form mint, if Mayborough, another ,. Irdieofthedarkages. Theroad '*. ^3 cr. Lowther Bridge. li Brougham Hall, the Windsor! [proceeds through Tirrel and |Barton to Pooley Bridge. f the North. Jn the vicinity! Brougham Castle, a fine ruin, | >e croperty of descendant* Clifton Hall, a farm-house, an ancient turretted mansion. 23i Clifton Vill. 2i rom The stout Lord Cliffords that did fight in France." Here are the pates leading to Hie Earl of Lonsdale's magni- ficent Park of 600 acres, and to Upon Clifton Moor, a skir- mish took place inl 745, between the Castle. ae retreating troops of the Pre- H ackthorpe Hall , also a (arm- 21 Hackthorpe Vill. 6 ender and the army under the >nke of Cumberland, in which house. The birth-place of John f teen were killed on both side*. first Viscount Jxrasdale. The I.owther family have immense 19 Thrimby Vill. 7 lention is made of this ind- ent in Waverley. possessions in the neighbour- hood. Shap , anciently Heppe, a long straggling village. The remains 16 Shap ViU. 10 On the south-east of Shap, by he road side, are two Iin fs of. of an abbey, founded in 1150, Inns, inhewn granite, jailed Carl; are a mile to the west on the Mtnks of the I.owther. Only a Greyhound, King's Arms .ofts. Amiletotflenorth-east| f the same village, there is an tower of the Church Is stand- Ing, but it appears to have been 14 Shap Toll Bar. 12 ancient circle of large stones, both these remains are suppo- at one time an extensive struc- sed to be of Druidic origin. ture. A road turns off at Shap to Hawes Water, six miles. 1 Over the elevated moons! Wastdale Head, a granitic mountain, from which blocks of immense size, have been car 12 tract called Shap Fells. 14 Shap Spa, a medicina! spring' which annually draws a crowd of visitors, is a mile to the east ried, by some extraordinary means, into Lancashire and Staffordshire, in one direction and to the coast of Yorkshire in Wnother, upwards of 100 miles {from the parent rock. In orde to entrr Yorkshire, they mus have been drifted over Stain 9 Steep descent under Bre- therdale Bank to High Borrow Bridge, over the Lune. 17 water is of nearly similar qua- ity to that at Leamington. There is an excellent hotel in the vicinity of the spring. This is the last stage to Ken- dal. MOT. 1400 feet in elevation. 1 Low-Bridge House, Richard 7 Forest Hall. 19 YVhmfell Beacon, 1500 feet. jFothergill, Esq. 5 21 Hollow through which the 1 Sprint fromLongsleddale flows. This narrow and picturesque vale commences near Garnett Three mile* north of Kenda. Bridge, and runs six mile* from Otter Bank, a beauufu northwards, between steep and view of that town, with th Ct!e Hill on th* left, is ot> rocky declivities. A path at its lead crosses Gatescarth Pus, tftioed. having Barter Fell on the left, and Branstre* on the right, in- to Mardale, at the head at Hawes Water. Mint Heorn. MM. Ei/icrton . 1 ^8 cr. Mint Bridge. 25 Benson Knot, 1068 feet. K EN DAL, 96 St. Gtorge'sChnnh. ! NOTICE TO THIS EDITION. SINCE the first issue, nearly twenty years since, of this Essay on the Geology of the Lake District, some considerable additions have been made to our know- ledge of the series of strata, the phenomena of slaty cleavage, the occurrence of organic remains, and the evidence of the movement of ancient glaciers down the valleys of the principal lakes. But nothing has hap- pened to change in any material degree the bearing of the facts, and the course of the reasoning. The author has therefore retained the form and substance of the Essay, but has revised the whole, and has added in their proper place brief notices of the new views and dis- coveries of later writers. OXFORD, March 1865. GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. rriHE magnificent scenery which surrounds the English -L Lakes derives much of its characteristic effect from the peculiar structure, as well as the elevation, of the mountain masses. Every hill and valley, every crag and waterfall, is marked with distinctive features by the rocks of the locality ; and these lovely scenes contribute a far higher measure of gratification to him who has learned the natural causes of their beauty, than that which meets the passing glance of one who sees only the charm of light, and shade, and colour. The landscape may, and indeed must, charm alike the Geologist and the Tourist ; but the former unites to his perception of the present a vivid image of the past ; traces back the combined effects to their several agencies ; refers these to great natural laws, which speak of periods anterior to human records ; and, beyond this long vista of geological time and physical change, beholds, with higher admiration, exempt from change, and independent of time, the power of the IN- FINITE and WISE. But, independent of the thoughts and feelings called up by geological associations, which often convert the dreariest, surface of pebbles, or the flattest plain of sand, into a theme for most interesting reflection, it cannot be doubted that the mere perception of the peculiar character of landscape is heightened and sharpened by some acquaint- ance with Geology. Who that knows the nature of the 232 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. rocks ever fails to muse on the contrast presented by the smooth slopes of Skiddaw with the rude crags of Scafell ? Looking only at the scene, we feel and enjoy the decorated beauty of Lowdore, and the lonely rush of Scale Force the majesty of Ulleswater, and the richness of Winder- mere the quiet beauty of Grasmere, and the savage banks of Thirlemere ; but we appreciate these contrasts with more justice, we mark the peculiarities of each picture with more firmness and truth, if our attention has been stimulated by Geology, and our curiosity directed to more than surface views of nature. We are indebted to one who has keenly relished the beauties of this mountain region, for an admirable sketch of its geological structure. The letters of Professor Sedg- wick, here alluded to, contained nearly all the information accessible to the public in 1842, though they embody only a small portion of the knowledge which he has gathered by the toil of many summers. Mr. Ottley's brief but valuable notices, and Dr. Smith's Geological Maps of the Counties of Cumberland, Lancashire, and Westmorland, may also be referred to. The following Essay is, in a great degree, founded on personal observation, compared, in several parts, with the communications of Mr. Sharpe to the Geological Society, and everywhere adjusted by reference to the views of Professor Sedgwick, from whose judgment it is seldom safe to differ. Eecently, Professor Harkness has added important information regarding the Skiddaw slates, and in conjunction with Sir E. L Mur- chison has explored and classed the Permian rocks on the border of the Lake district. The Lakes of the north of England, like those of Scotland, Wales, and some districts of Ireland, are situated among the most ancient of the stratified rocks, including slaty formations with organic remains, and others still older, which have not till of late years yielded any fossils. These strata form, in a general sense, one broad rugged dome, surrounded on the flanks by later deposits of old red sandstone, mountain limestone, millstone grit, coal, Permian and Triassic sandstones, and a limited patch of GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 233 Lias, described by Mr. Binney. The map of these strata has the following general aspect : No. 1. \ A The Mountainous District of Slaty -' Rocks, enclosing the Lakes. B B The raised Border of Limestone, Grit, Coal, etc. ~"' c The Plains of Permian Sandstones, and Strata of later age. If we suppose a section made across this tract to the level of the sea, the appearance (in a general sense) would be thus the three great classes of rocks being marked by the same letters : No. 2. But the regularity of the dome and its borders is dis- guised by a thousand inequalities of detail. The strata of the interior are not uplifted in a regular arch, but bent No. 3. into innumerable complex curves, forming anticlinal ridges, a a a, and synclinal hollows s s. They are locally broken by faults (No. 4), so that the originally continuous rocks 234 GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. are divided, and the parts changed in level 10, 100, or 1000 feet, or yards. No. 4. These great movements of the strata were accomplished with violence, and it is the prevalent opinion that one of the coincident effects was the forcible injection of melted rocks into many of the fissures and void spaces left between the broken masses. Thus, granite, porphyry, and other rocks produced by heat, and not stratified, are believed to have found their way amongst the older strata, and to have produced on them, near the surfaces of contact, certain chemical and mechanical changes, converting the sand and argillaceous masses into compounds which approach to the nature of the igneous rocks. To these the title of metamorphic rocks is assigned. Mr. James Marshall, however, has advocated a different view, accord- ing to which the granite is only the extreme term of a general metamorphism, through heat affecting the whole district the really fused portion of the stratified masses among which it seems to be irruptive. The accompanying section (No. 5), from south to north, will show the relative position of these various masses, which we shall now proceed to notice in the order of their geological antiquity ; beginning with the lowest and oldest class of strata, viz., those of the Skiddaw range, which have lately been found to yield fossils, even in considerable variety. 235 Caldbeck. High Pike. Skiddaw. Derwentwater. Cawsey Pike. Scafell. Old Man. Coniston Water. Ulverston. 236 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. No. 6. Postglacial Accumulations. . Glacial Accumulations. S ^>^S Lower Permian. Triassic Sandstones. \ u PP er Permian. Calcereo-magnesian Conglomerate. B a r " a1 Formation. t ,"4 l(, I '' /oi>v' t. '*," i'l ,l , V^i ' ''' *"" ''"/'''/'' ' Millstone-grit. 2 Limestone, Grit, Shale, and Coal. Limestone. 't'.^fv.'vt''. Old Red Sandstone and Conglomerate Upper Slaty Rocks, with interepereeo trap rocks. ^^fS^^f^^s^^ Limestone. e Slaty Rocks, with interposed Trap Rocks Lower Slaty Rocks. (Granitic rocks of Igneous Origin. GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. 237 The proceeding sketch. (No. 6) represents a vertical section of the whole series of aqueous deposits in and around the Lake district. DISTRICT OF THE LOWEST SLATES. If a line be drawn in a direction from south-west to north-east, through Dent Hill and Saddleback, it will nearly coincide with the south-eastern boundary of these rocks, which occupy nearly the whole area between this line and the limestone hills of Egremont, Cockermouth, and Hesket Newmarket. Within this space granite appears in the valley of the Caldew ; syenite in Carrock Fell ; por- phyritic dykes in High Pike ; greenstone at Berrier, and in Binsey and other localities. The granite of the Caldew is the lowest rock of the whole district, though probably of the most recent origin, for the veins which issue from it into some of the incum- bent slaty beds may be regarded as proof of its having been in a state of fusion since the date of their deposition. It is a compound of gray quartz, light-coloured felspar, and black mica. Some portions have undergone decom- position to a considerable depth from the surface. Synin- gill and the channel of the Caldew exhibit its characters to advantage. Above the granite, in Syningill, Mr. Ottley found, a series of beds, of a nature almost intermediate between the granite and the ordinary slates. One of these is gneiss a laminated compound of quartz, felspar, and mica traversed by veins of granite. Another is mica-schist, a compound of silvery mica, in broad flakes, alternating with bands of quartz. Above them appears a thick series of dark slaty rocks, very regularly laminated, and full of black spots of horn- blende. This rock is locally called " whintin" and by geologists has been named hornblende-slate. Still higher follows a thick mass of bluish argillaceous slate, full of distinctly crystallized prisms of " Chiattolite" which gives its name to the slate. 238 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. A great mass of slates follows, composing the principal part of the mountains of Saddleback and Skiddaw, Cawsey Pike, the Grasmoor Fells, and the sides of Crummock and Loweswater, and terminating in Dent Hill. These rocks are of a uniform argillaceous character, except where veins and thin laminae of quartz diversify their aspect, or igneous rocks change the textures. The colour is usually dark, the surface glossy, and the mass divided into even or very undulated laminae. " Slaty cleavage" runs through a great part of the rock, but we believe good slate is rarely produced in this district, except at Bowscale Fell. Veins of lead occur in these slates at Dent Hill and on Loweswater. Copper has been found in Skiddaw, and copper and lead, in various and beautiful combinations, occur in the mountainous group of High Pike and Carrock Fell. The mineral wealth of this region is perhaps due to the nature and mode of occurrence of the syenitic rocks of Carrock Fell, and the felspathic dykes (analogous in many respects to the "Elvan" dykes of Cornwall), which appear in the vicinity of the lead and copper veins. The syenite of Carrock Fell is usually a compound of felspar, quartz, and hornblende ; the felspar in the large-grained sorts is often pale greenish, and, in finer-grained kinds, it is often reddish. The hornblendic mineral is sometimes exchanged for hypersthene, and the whole enriched by small black crystals of oxide of iron. Perhaps the fel- spathic dykes of High Pike are branches from this rock. The felspar in one of these dykes is decomposed to a soft steatitic substance. The organic remains found in these slates by Air. Ruthven and Professor Harkness consist mainly of Grap- tolites, apparently of Lower Silurian age, and not a little resembling some species discovered in Canada. In rocks of this kind, much compressed by slaty cleavage, many fossils may long escape detection, unless the explorer finds the natural leading of these rocks exposed by decompositions, or is aware of processes by which, even in solid slates, this bedding can sometimes GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. 239 be rendered evident. The Skiddaw slates appear, by their organic contents, to be nearly coeval with the dark slaty strata below the parallel cf the limestones of Bala and Llandeilo, but above the true " Lingula flags." DISTRICT OF THE MIDDLE SLATES. In proceeding from Borrowdale, through Langdale to Ambleside, and through Tilberthwaite to Coniston Water- head, this great and complex series of rocks may be ex- amined in an interesting variety of positions. By a short deviation from Borrowdale, over Sty Head, toward Wast- water, or from Langdale, over Hard Knott, to Eskdale, the granite which breaks into the midst of the series, and sends off porphyritic branches, accompanied by metamorphic slates, may be well studied. The boundaries of the district occupied by the middle slates, are, on the north-west, the line from Egremont by Keswick, already mentioned ; on the south-east, a nearly parallel line from Broughton by Coniston Waterhead, Low- wood Inn, and the chapel in Longsleddale. The base of the whole mass, as seen on Derwentwater, about Barrow, is a red mottled argillaceous rock usually regarded as a breccia. The colour being considered acci- dental, we find similar brecciated structures, and various gray tints, in the rocks at the entrance of Borrowdale, in those at the head of Ulleswater, around the north side .of Grasmere, and in the vicinity of Devock Water, and, indeed, generally through a great part of the area of the middle slates. The fine-grained, gray, or green slaty rocks, like those of Langdale and Coniston Fells, are also of a derivative character, and only different by reason of the smaller size of the fragments which they enclose. The mottled aspect of some of these rocks has earned them the title of " rain- spot" slates (as at White Moss Quarry, near Ambleside). Among these beds we find abundance of those imper- fect porphyries composed of what seems to be indurated argillaceous matter, and imperfectly crystallized white 240 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. felspar spots, melting away at their edges into the sur- rounding parts. Such as these occur under Helvellyn and about Thirlemere in great abundance, and may be recog- nised in the passage from Borrowdale to Wastdale, and from Langdale to Eskdale. These porphyries do not appear to be dykes forced in a melted state into fissures and cavities of the slates, but rather in some cases contem- poraneous deposits, which have undergone greater alteration by heat than the associated strata, and deserve even more than they do, the title of metamorphic rocks. It is a con- firmation of this view, that such rocks prevail around the great masses of granite and syenite of this region, and are yet distinct from the porphyritic " dykes? which are branches from these masses. When felspar crystals are absent, the rock is conveniently called felstone. Other beds, interposed among the slates, have the aspect of amygdaloid. In Borrowdale, near Grasmere, about Ulpha, and in other places, rocks of this kind occur, having a generally argillaceous basis, full of nodules of calcareous spar, or quartz, or calcedony, surrounded by thin coatings of green earth, which, in a flaky form, is interspersed in the substance of many of the slaty rocks. At the surface of the ground the nodules of carbonate of lime are removed by solution, and the stone becomes vesicular, like slag or lava. Portions may be selected from the "Toadstone" of Derbyshire (an earthy submarine lava), which closely re- semble the amygdaloidal bed of Borrowdale. Thin strings of epidote also occur among the brecciated rocks, as, for example, in the cliffs about Bowder Stone in Borrowdale. All these are evidences of the more than local action of heat in occasioning the peculiar mineral characters of the middle division of slates. A close scrutiny of the circum- stances under which the rocks are associated suggests the idea of their being in part aggregates of volcanic mud ; in part submarine streams of felspathic lava ; in part literal breccias or conglomerates, whose materials have not been drifted far ; and in part argillaceous and arenaceous accu- mulations of an ordinary character. Through nearly the whole mass there runs a structure GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 241 on a large scale, symmetrical to certain lines independent of the original bedding of the rocks. To this structure we owe the slates for roofing, which are obtained by cleaving the rock vertically, or at a moderate inclination from the vertical. A mass of slate rock is thus cleavable like the stump of a tree, yet rooted in the ground ; the tree can be split in planes passing in any direction through its axis ; but the slate only in parallel planes, coincident with one particular direction at each quarry, and this direction is generally observed to be prevalent in the whole district. This cleavable structure is not coeval with the origin of the rocks, as the stratification of them is ; it has been added, in consequence of some very general influence affecting the ancient rocks more than those of later date ; and the argillaceous rocks more than the sandstones and limestones. It has been ascribed to heat, to electrical affinities, to pressure, and in fact all these forces may have acted ; but the general concomitant, and probably ante- cedent, appears to have been lateral pressure and contrac- tion. Experiments by Sorby and Tyndall have shown that lamination and fissility are easily produced by pres- sure on a mass of matter composed of unequally extended, or unequally extensible parts. In the course of such pressure the molecular arrangements would often be so disturbed as to cause transfer of heat, and electrical polar- ities ; sometimes proceeding far enough to effect or occasion crystalline arrangements and chemical aggregations. The cleavage planes in this district of middle slates run very frequently from S.S.W. to N.N.E. The inclination or " dip" of the cleavage is variable between 45 and verticality. The middle district of slates, now under consideration, is, more than any other part of the Lake country, filled with rocks of igneous origin. The syenitic and porphyritic rocks of the northern end of the Vale of St. John, near Keswick, touch, or nearly touch, the line of the boundary of the Skiddaw slates : but their principal mass has been forced up amongst the brecciated slates, and is probably of later date than most of the gray sub-porphyritic masses under Helvellyn and R 242 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. about Wythburn, which seem to be contemporaneous with the strata. In Armboth Fell, Mr. Ottley found a beautiful dyke of red felspar, holding doubly pyramidal detached quartz crystals. This may be of the same age as the por- phyries of St. John's Vale. Abundance of sub-porphyritic rocks are seen about the head of Langdale, and in the passes from that vale to Eskdale, and to Borrowdale. Again they prevail in the pass from Borrowdale to Wast- water, and in the mass of Scafell and Great Gable. But these, for the most part, appear to be of contemporaneous origin, spread out on the sea-bed, in alternation with marine sediments ; or else may be regarded as beds of more easy fusibDity than the others with which they are associated, and, on this account, more changed than they, by the general action of heat, since their deposition. On the other hand, the great syenitie masses of Red Pike, and the chain of grand rough hills on the western side of Buttermere and southern side of Ennerdale, are evidently irruptive masses, which have been forced through, and perhaps have spread over, the middle slates. They are mostly composed of red felspar, with some quartz inter- spersed, and a variable admixture of a soft greenish or yellowish mineral. Rarely distinct hornblende is observ- able. These rocks are inineralogically allied to the fels- pathic masses in the Vale of St. John, and may be well studied in the country between Buttermere and Wastdale Head. The area of the syenitie rocks is considerable ; but it is joined to a still larger surface of granite, which, from the lower end of Wastwater, from below the summit of Scafell, and from Eskdale Head, passes by Muncaster Fell and Devock Water, to Stoneshead Fell. In Eskdale the granite contains silvery mica ; about Devock Water this is often decomposed to a ferruginous mass ; in Mun- caster Fell there is generally no mica ; and the rock be- comes a large-grained gray " binary" granite, composed of felspar and quartz. Adjoining to these granites and syenites, the slaty rocks are frequently metamorphic, having become reddened. GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 243 as at Floutern Tarn ; blackened and subcrystalline, accord- ing to Professor Sedgwick, near Bootle ; sub-porphyritic, or of the nature of felstone, in a great range of country round Scafell. Veins appear, in many places, to have ramified from the granitic and syenitic masses into cracks and fissures of the slate, and therein to have cooled to a compact felspathic or porphyritie rock. From these circumstances there arises the conviction that the granite and syenite of the western region of the lakes, which is subjacent, as a mass, to the middle or green slates, is of later consolidation than the era of their deposi- tion, has been in fusion since they were indurated, and has, by heating, locally altered their characters. The same conclusion may be drawn from the appearances pre- sented by the region of syenites and porphyries round Carrock Fell and High Pike, where the slates are modified by these igneous rocks, and the whole district resembles, in several points, a portion of the mining country of Corn- wall. Greenstone occurs in dykes in several situations. Metamorphic rocks assume occasionally somewhat of this character, as some rocks of the Great Gable, which yield- red garnets in profusion. Agatized nodules occur in Wallow Crag, and in the altered rocks near granite, at Bootle. Mineral veins occur in the middle slates in various situations. The sulphuret of copper in the mines of Tilber- thwaite, in Coniston Fells ; the micaceous iron-ore of Esk- dale ; the galena of Grisedale, on Ulleswater, are examples. Carbonates and sulphurets of copper ; carbonates, phos- phates, arseniates, and sulphurets of lead ; arseniurets of iron, wolfram, apatite, etc., will repay the mineralogist for a visit to these hills. The sulphuret of lead at Driggeth mine usually contains silver. The " Wad" or "Blacklead" mine in Borrowdale may be added to this list ; and it is a subject of no small diffi- culty to the geologist, to determine the origin of this singu- lar compound of carbon and iron, which here ramifies irregularly in the partially "metamorphic" slates. The supposition of a vegetable origin for this carbon seems 244 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. altogether gratuitous ; and there appears as much reason to admit mineral combinations containing carbon among the constituents of the globe, previous to, or independent of, the existence of plants, as there is to admit phosphorus in such combinations, previous to, or independent of, the existence of animals. No organic remains have yet been distinctly recognised in this great series of strata, but there are cavities in the green slate of the Old Man in Coniston Fells, which seem to be of organic origin. The best chance of finding fossils in this region is probably in coarse sandstone or quartzose conglomerates, for such have been found to yield them in parts of the slate rocks of Wales, once equally thought to be devoid of all traces of life. Limestone bands are not known in the region, otherwise they might be searched with good hope of success. The forms most likely to be met with are those of lingulse, orthocerata, graptolites, and fragments of encrinites. The middle slates of the Lake district, with their fre- quent porphyries, appear analogous to the richly porphy- ritic series of North Wales, which surround Cader Idris and Snowdon, and lie below the limestones of Bala. THE UPPER SLATES. Coniston Limestone. The south-eastern boundary of the middle slates is marked by a variable limestone band, or by the lowest of two bands where both exist. This limestone, rich in fossil remains, is properly a member of the upper slate series, which is also in many parts full of the traces of animal life. It is to Professor Sedgwick that we owe the exact survey and description of this rock, which, from a point lying west, and others north of Broughton in Furness, passes north of Coniston Waterhead and Lowwood Inn, across the valleys of Troutbeck and Longsleddale, in a direction right against the mass of granite in Shap Fells. After the interruption which this causes, the calcareous beds are stated to reappear farther east, near Shap Wells, and there to pass unconformedly beneath the carboniferous series GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 245 Though here called limestone, this series of beds is, indeed, only partially and variably calcareous. The strata of limestone are much intermingled with beds of shale, and the uniform dark colour of the group renders it some- what difficult for an inexperienced eye to distinguish be- tween them. Veins of calcareous spar are frequent in the small cracks of the thicker beds ; the cleavage planes, which pass through the shales, are somewhat interrupted and twisted in the band of limestone ; and the effect of atmospheric action is different on the argillaceous and calcareous strata. The organic remains are numerous, including corals, brachiopoda, tentaculites, and trilobites. There may be collected about twenty species in a quarry by the roadside from Coniston Waterhead to Ambleside, about two miles from Coniston. Among these are the chain-coral (Cateni- pora escharoides), Orthis flabellulum, Orthis calligramma, Encrinurus punctatus, and other trilobites. At Lowwood Inn, also, similar collections may be made, but. the coimtry near Coniston Waterhead appears most productive. Coniston Flags. Above the Coniston limestone is a thick series of dark flaggy slates, such as occur on the road from Coniston to Hawkshead, between Lowwood Inn and Bow- ness, in Kentmere, in Longsleddale, and at the Crook of Lune, under Howgill Fells. In a district farther east, at Horton in Ribblesdale, Yorkshire, the valuable flag-quarries, which appear to be of this series, are well worthy of a visit. The surfaces of the flags (surfaces of stratification, not cleavage) are there undulated by nodules, enclosing ortho- ceratites, lituites, and favosites. They somewhat resemble the flags of Llandeilo, in South Wales. And still more closely, as Professor Sedgwick has shown, the flags of Denbighshire, in North Wales. Proceedings of the Geolo- gical Society, 1845. Organic remains are not commonly observed in this group of rocks, except in the vicinity of the limestone bands, at or near its base. Some columnar joints of crinoidea were collected in it, on the shore by Bowness Ferry, on Windermere, by the author, in 1837, and orthoceratites and lituites in Ribblesdale. 246 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. Coniston Grits. A more arenaceous series than the last, upon which it rests, though in both sandy and argilla- ceous deposits alternate, the sandy layers being more fre- quent, often thicker, and perhaps of coarser grain in this. There are no important conglomerates, and no remarkable brecciated rocks in the group. It is not in general subject to any other metamorphic appearance than that caused by slaty cleavage, which is less remarkable, and less productive of good slate, than in the lower group. Organic remains do occur, but are very rare in these rocks. Kirkby Group, the highest and most fossiliferous of all the series of Cumbrian slaty rocks. In it the true slaty cleavage is but little developed ; the rocks grow more and more micaceous upwards, and gradually exchange bluish and gray tints for purplish and reddish hues. By these characters the series approximates to the more recent class of strata the old red sandstone, which succeeds, and is superimposed. In fact, the upper portion of the Kirkby group is hardly distinguishable from the fossiliferous tile- stone which occurs in Caermarthenshire, and was there classed by Murchison as the lower member of the old red sandstone. These circumstances are nowhere better ob- servable than in the banks of the Lune, above Kirkby- Lonsdale, and on the line of the old Kendal road from that town. The fossils from these localities were collected by the late Dr. William Smith and the author in 1822-4, and described in a communication to the Geological Society in 1827. But the number since added by Mr. Danby and the diligent naturalists of Kendal from Benson Knot, Brigsteer, and other localities near Kendal, is much greater ; and the whole series appears to demonstrate the affinity of these upper micaceous flags and slates to the Upper Ludlow shales and tilestone beds of Shropshire and Caermarthen- shire. Very few dykes of any rock of igneous origin are met with in this series of strata, except in the vicinity of the remarkable granitic mass of Shap Fells. This fills a con- spicuous area, perhaps equal to that occupied by the granite under Skiddaw. It occupies the crest of high bold GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 247 ground, about two miles west-south-west of Shap Wells, and close to the road from Penrith to Kendal. The rock is quite unlike either of the sorts of granite already mentioned. It is porphyritic granite ; a compound of gray and reddish felspar, quartz, and dark mica, in grains of small or moderate size ; but amidst these are scattered large and fine crystals of reddish felspar, one inch or even more in length. In this it resembles a granite of Ben Nevis, and, except in colour, some of the rocks of Corn- wall. By this character, and some other peculiarities, the Shap granite may be recognised in hand specimens, and still more perfectly in the numerous boulders of this rock which have been scattered by ancient surface forces, on wide areas in the north of England, and to distances even as far as the Chalk Cliffs of Yorkshire. The granite of Ravenglass and Devock Water is also recognisable, and has been identified in loose fragments and scattered blocks as far south as the plains of Cheshire. The rocks now noticed in the middle slate region pro- bably belong in part to lower and in part to upper Silurian age. The Coniston limestone appears to correspond pretty well to that of Bala, in North Wales ; the flags and grits above may be referred to the Wenlock grcmps ; and the fossiliferous beds of Kirkby Lonsdale must be ranked with upper Ludlow beds. For the present, however, it will be found most convenient to use the classification sanctioned by so many explorations, and to wait pa- tiently for the more perfect examination of the district by the Ordnance Geological Survey, and a fuller examination of the organic remains, before venturing to replace the useful local names of Coniston limestone, flags, and grits, by the corresponding terms on the general Silurian scale. THE GRANITE. The circumstance that there are three granite masses of different mineral characters, raised to the surface in three unconnected tracts of the small area of the Lake country, is interesting ; but that these three sorts of 248 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. granite should be found, one in each of the three divisions of the slate rocks which exist in this district, is rather sur- prising. There is, probably, no other such case known ; and we ask is the character of the granite due to the influences exercised on its consolidation by the slates with which it is associated ? or must we ascribe to some peculiar conditions, coinciding with each period, the periodic charac- ters of the granite, as to other conditions we ascribe the periodic characters of the slates ? According to this latter view, which is by far the most probable, and which might be supported by many and strong analogies, the three granitic masses are of three different ages. Accord- ing to observations made in the vicinity of each observa- tions proving that the slates in contact have been altered by the heat, and injected by the ramified veins of the fused rocks each is of more recent date than the strata with which it is associated, but we have no certain proof of their relative antiquity ; no decisive argument to bring against the supposition, that the granite of the Caldew, though it is in contact with only the lowest slates, may be of a date later than the highest of them. In confirmation of this supposition, we may remark that the whole of the region of the slates is elevated upon an axis passing north- east and south-west through the northern part of the district ; that this axis passes through the valley of the Caldew ; and that the appearance of the granite there is connected with, and is in fact dependent on, the disruption of the slaty rocks along the line of fracture. If this granite, therefore, was of later consolidation than the fissures which it fills, it may be regarded as of more recent origin than the whole of the slaty series ; but the proof of this is imperfect. For the granite sends veins only into the immediately superincumbent gneiss : and the horn- blendic and chiastolitic slates must have derived their metamorphosed aspect from a more pervading action of heat than that which emanated from the fused granite forced into an anticlinal fissure. GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 249 FIRbT GREAT DISTURBANCE OF THE SEA-BED. Such are the strata and the rocks of igneous origin which compose the central area of the Lake district. To complete their history, we must consider the movements by which they were raised from their original place on the sea-bed, put into new positions, and exposed to new condi- tions. Old Red. No. 7. Old Red. Upper Slates. Middle Slates. Lower Slates. Granite. Middle Slates. There is one general movement of this description, traceable in the Lake district, which occurred after the de- position of the whole slate series, and before the production of the strata next in the order of succession. This move- ment was one of general elevation, on an axis ranging from south-west to north-east through Grasmoor Forest and Skiddaw Forest. On this line the lowest slates are thrown up ; in the part where its effect is greatest, the subjacent granite appears. On each side of the axis some of the middle slates appear, and on the south side the upper slates. These latter are concealed on the northern side by the over-extension (" unconformability") of the superin- cumbent strata ; and it is this unconformability of the two orders of deposits which proves the movement of dis- turbance to have occurred in the period of geological time which intervened between them. Similar movements of the old slate rocks happened at the same period in nearly parallel directions in the range of the Lammermuir Hills, raising the whole line of country from St. Abb's Head to Portpatrick. The greater ranges of the Highlands, on lines nearly parallel, were elevated at the same period ; and the same remark applies to con- siderable tracts in the north-west of Ireland. Round all these tracts the slates are unconformably covered, at least in patches, by old red sandstone, as in Cumberland and Westmorland. 250 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. The entire concealment of the upper slates (A 3 in the diagram), and the partial concealment of the middle slates (A 2), on the north sides of the axis of movement, is a A3A2 Al A2A3 circumstance of much importance in reasoning on the physical agencies which have been anciently at work on the district of Cumbrian slates. This deficiency of the upper fossiliferous beds is probably due to the wasting and destruction of them on that side of the axis, during the time which elapsed between the elevation of the central area and the formation around it of the next series of strata on the new bed and borders of the sea. While rising above the sea-level in a shaken and fragmentary state, the slate rocks would be exposed to rapid disintegra- tion and waste, first by the sea-breakers, and afterwards by the atmospheric agencies, and especially the upper bed, which formed the surface, would be wasted. The ordinary action of the sea on its now stationary coasts, and on solid rocks, is very powerful, but may be regarded as almost of no moment if compared to its effects on land rising under a large area by convulsive throes in shattered and broken masses. To the successive operation of disturbing movements on the crust of the earth, and of the literal action of the sea, excited to violence by the change of level and dis- placement of liquid, modern geology ascribes the most important surface changes of the globe, its rugged glens and ridgy mountains ; while the effect of land streams and atmospheric influences upon these features has been to soften and fill up the chasms, and moderate the precipitous aspect of the mountains. Such effects are the natural, and GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 251 indeed necessary, consequences following upon the condi- tions which have been proved. But this reasoning is further confirmed by the nature of the next class of de- posited strata, and by the circumstances in which they are found ; for these show incontestably, as facts, that the sur- face of the slaty rocks of all ages was thus formed into valleys, and that their disrupted materials were transported by water, and re-arranged along the borders of the sea. OLD BED STRATA. The old red sandstone appears, round the district of the Lakes, resting on the more ancient slates, but only in a few localities, and under an aspect very different from that which it wears in Caithness, along the Grampians, or . on the border of Wales. There it forms immense areas of country, consists of innumerable beds amounting to several thousand feet in thickness, and contains remains of most singular fishes. Here it is confined to a few valleys, is of only a few tens or a few hundreds of feet thick, and has yielded no relics of life ; yet in a general sense, it is, by composition and history, allied to the larger and more prolific deposits alluded to. The valley of the Lune above Kirkby Lonsdale ex- hibits the best series of these red rocks, but they occupy a larger area, have greater thickness, and rise to higher ground, at the lower end of Ulleswater. The Lune crosses, in its picturesque course, within two miles of Kirkby Lonsdale, the upper part of the slate rocks with fossils, at Beck Foot ; then divides cliffs of the old red series, which consist of red clay, with some concretionary sub- calcareous masses (like the more definite rock called " Cornstone" in Herefordshire), surmounted by red con- glomerates full of pebbles, derived from the slate regions adjacent. The mountain limestone follows, but a clear and perfect junction of this rock with the old red is wanting here. The nearest approach to a perfect junction is in Casterton woods, by the pretty waterfall. 252 GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. Near Ulleswater, the limestone is separated from the slate by a narrow band of laminated arenaceous red marls without conglomerates ; at Dacre near Pooley Bridge, and at Butterswick near Shap Abbey, the conglomerate beds may be seen between the limestone and the slates. Mell Fell and Dunmallet are the only conspicuous hills of red conglomerate in the whole Lake district. The former rises to a height of 1000 feet above the sea. In the valley of the Mint near Kendal, in the Rother near Sedbergh, in Barbon Beck between the chapel and the bridge, the old red conglomerate may be seen under peculiar circumstances, and to great advantage. From a careful study of all these localities, there results the conclusion, that the red deposits, taken gene- rally, occupy ancient valleys, and the sides of ancient valleys, which were excavated in the slaty rocks previous to the old red period. Among the fragments which fill the conglomerates, we find rolled masses of the neigh- bouring slaty rocks, pieces of vein quartz, and specimens of the micaceous iron ore which lies in veins in the slaty country. From these facts it is evident, that, previously to the junction of the conglomerates, the slate rocks had been indurated, displaced, fissured, excavated into valleys, and impregnated with mineral veins ! What a lesson is here for the inquiring geologist, what a reproof for the sceptic who doubts the antiquity of the earth, and the immense range of its physical history before the era of the creation of man ! By observing the elevation along the boundary of the Lake district, to which we find the conglomerates reach, we obtain a rude measure of the ancient limit of the sea, round the newly risen islands of the slate. We say limit, not level ; for, in fact, the variation of level must be ascribed to the land, and the standard of level awarded to the sea. There is no trace of the old red visible on the western side of the Lake district ; and this may be, because the ancient sea-limit, on that side, had soon after sunk below the modern sea-level, and become covered up by deposits later than the old red rocks. On that side, GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 253 all the immediately succeeding deposits occupy, in general, lower levels than on the eastern side ; so that a relative subsidence of the western lake region may be believed to have continued through the carboniferous period a sup- position which agrees with the local richness of the coal- beds there ; for this fact is in harmony with subsidence of a sea-coast. We may gather, from the condition of the pebbles in the conglomerate, that the litoral action of the sea, dur- ing the old red period, was violent ; that the coarse detritus of the shores was chiefly collected in bays and hollows, where comparative tranquillity reigned ; that it is only the edge of the old red which is now shown to us, while the deeper beds of the ocean, which received most of the sandy and muddy deposits, are now hid from our view by the later deposits of limestone, gritstone, and coal, which mark the next great portion of geological time. CALCAREO-CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM OF STRATA. Mountain Limestone. Under this title, geologists include a thick series of deposits, in which limestone abounds, and sometimes predominates, or even constitutes, alone, nearly the whole of the mass. This happens in Flintshire, and rather generally in South Wales and Somersetshire. In Derbyshire, the thick limestone is surmounted by shale, and then by the millstone grit series ; in Yorkshire, the same limestone is surmounted by shale, gritstone, and coal ; and this by the millstone grit series. The thick LOWER LIMESTONE is seen abundantly round the Lake district ; as near Ulverstone, Cartmel. Wither- slack, Kendal, Milnthorpe, Kirkby Lonsdale, Sedbergh, Orton, Shap, Lowther, Greystock, Caldbeck, Torpenhow, Cockermouth, Cleator, and Egremont. Everywhere it forms bold hills ; often presenting rough precipices toward the Lake mountains, dignified by the title of " Scars," as Whitbarrow Scar, Underbarrow Scar ; or " Knots," as Farlton Knot ; or simply termed " Fells," like other less 254 GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. remarkable hills. It rests upon the upper Silurian rocks, near Kendal ; upon the middle slates, near Hesket New- market ; upon the lowest slates, near Egremont. Thus it is " unconformable " to those rocks, and the cause of this is, the great disturbance of the sea-bed which followed upon the completion of the slaty series of strata. Generally speaking, this limestone appears, by the regularity of its beds and the purity of its calcareous composition, to have been deposited beyond the influence of the literal agita- tion of the sea. In some places (as near Ingleton, in Yorkshire) its lowest beds contain abundance of fragments of the subjacent slaty rocks : near Lowther, beds similarly placed contain quartz pebbles ; and as we proceed to the north, a series of sandstones, shales, and coal, is inter- polated among the limestones. This is seen chiefly on the eastern side of the Vale of Eden, under the great escarpment of Cross Fell. The geologist should remark, beneath* the limestone range of Orton Scars, a lower plateau, in which red sandstone prevails ; for this appears to be associated with fossiliferous limestones, locally of a red colour, the whole suggesting the idea of a temporary return, during the calcareous period, of the actions which had prevailed during the old red sandstone era. (See Geology of Yorkshire, vol. ii.) The colours and textures of the limestone render it suitable for marble. The most curious, perhaps, is the clouded marble of Beetham Fell. Some beds are full of shells, others of corals, others of crinoids ; and nearly all disclose to the microscope multitudes of minutely organized animal tissues. A great part of the mass is distinctly composed of organic reliquioe ; the hard parts of inverte- brate animals (with a few fish-teeth and fin-bones) ; and it is, perhaps, not an extravagant conjecture, to regard it as of the nature of an ancient reef of shells, corals, and crinoids, encircling the insulated lake mountains, analogous to the coral reefs which prevail, in the modern period, around the islands of tropical seas. Professor Sedgwick advances this opinion in his Letters on the Geology of the Lake Dis- trict. The crinoidal stems are usually disjointed, and GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 255 appear to have been displaced by currents, and then aggregated into beds. This great limestone series is from 500 to 1000 feet thick in the Yorkshire Dales. It may be well studied in the vicinity of Ingleton, Settle, Kirkby Lonsdale, and Hesket Newmarket. Caverns and fantastically excavated rocks mark the range of this limestone in various parts ; especially under Ingleborough and Whernside. The river scenery of Kirkby Lonsdale and Caldbeck, and the sea-coast of Grange and Conishead, near Ulverstone, are much enriched by its romantic cliffs and terraces. Mineral veins are not so plentiful in the mountain limestone round the lakes, as in other tracts of the same rock. Sulphuret of lead was found in it under Ingle- borough, carbonate of copper near Ulverstone, and car- bonate of zinc (calamine) in Bolland Forest. But iron is the only valuable metal now obtained from this rock, in the district of the lakes. It occurs in the state of a rich haematite (peroxide of iron), near Dalton in Furness, and at Cleator near Egremont. The veins of this valuable substance, near Dalton, fill wide fissures in the limestone, and have long yielded to the iron-masters of South Wales the means of enriching the produce from their furnaces, by admixture with the native poorer clay ironstones. This iron ore is of Permian age. Organic remains are extremely numerous in the great limestone rocks of Kendal, Kirkby Lonsdale, Orton, Cald- beck, Cockermouth, and Egremont. They consist of corals, in various states of preservation ; columns and smaller parts of encrinites ; two species of echinidea ; several hundred species of bivalve, univalve, and coneamerated shells, fish-teeth and fin-bones. The reader will find a nearly complete account, with figures, of these organic remains, in Phillips' Geology of Yorkshire, vol. ii. The UPPER or YOREDALE LIMESTONE series is conspicu- ous on the middle slopes of Ingleborough, Wharnside, and Wildboar Fell, but forms only a secondary feature in the calcareous belt of the Lake country on the north, ranging from near Lowther, on the north side of Hesket New- 256 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. market, by Bolton, to near Cockermouth. It also appears in Low Furness, south-east of Dalton, and south of Kirkby Lonsdale, about Hutton-roof, and Whittington. It yields fine marble, especially in Garsdale and Dentdale, of two sorts : one from the lowest beds, black ; the other, from the highest, gray, and full of crinoidal columns, each re- sembling a variety of the Derbyshire marbles. Good flag- stone occurs in this series, at Hutton-roof, near Kirkby Lonsdale, and poor beds of coal, in the same vicinity, as also at Sleagill, near Orton, and near Hesket Newmarket. The organic remains are extremely numerous, but generally similar to those mentioned in the lower lime- stone. One of the beds of this series, at Alstone Moor, is called " Cockle-shell Lime," from the plenty of bivalve shells (producta) in it. The Millstone Grit Group is about 800 feet thick in the Yorkshire mountains, and consists of three distinct coarse sandstones or quartzose conglomerates, with several flaggy sandstones, shales, and coal-beds ; but it is only feebly traceable parallel to the northern border of the Lake country ; and indeed is hardly separable from the beds of the division just noticed. Organic remains (animal), similar to those of the limestone, occur in some of the shales, and others, like those of the coal (plants), are met with in some of the sandstones. The group is altogether of an intermedi- ate character between the limestone and the coal formation. The Coal Formation, which is the uppermost part of the calcareo-carboniferous system, contains no true lime- stone-beds ; but consists of sandstones and shales of vari- ous kinds, enclosing several regular beds of coal, and some bands of ironstone nodules. This valuable series of deposits merely fringes the sea-coast, from St. Bees' Head, near Whitehaven, to Maryport ; and the coal is sought with such avidity, that the works are now extended far beneath the sea, both at Whitehaven and at Workington. The westward dip .of the coal favours this bold operation ; but faults and local changes of dip occur, which render the enterprise not a little dangerous, as well as difficult. A serious accident from this cause happened in 1837. GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. 257 The fossils of the coal tract are chiefly plants of the sorts usually classed as Calamites, Stigmarise, Sigillarise, Lepidodendra, and Ferns. Some of the sandstones of the millstone grit group, and others of the upper limestone series, contain stems of plants, very rarely leaves of ferns ; but the extreme abundance of the remains of plants is a positive character of the coal deposits. SECOND GREAT INTERVAL OF DISTURBANCE. The accumulation of coal, which was favoured by a general and continual descent of the shore and bed of the sea, ceased, when a contrary movement, of a violent character and very extensive sphere of operation, took place. The movement thus described affected with great fractures and enormous displacements the area of the coal and mountain limestone and more anciently solidified strata, in the whole of the British Isles, and over large parts of Europe and America. Its effects in and around the Lake district may be summed in the following abstract : 1. The main geographical features of the district ; its high mountain ridges, and broad vale depressions, received from this movement their last decisive impress. The insulated character of the Lake mountains, which was evi- dent at the close of the first great disturbance, was now modified on the eastern side, by the elevation of a long and wide range of high ground, extending from what is now the vale of the Tyne, to the sources of the Aire and the Ribble ; and the sea, which had flowed without inter- ruption around, was bounded by the lofty isthmus of Howgill Fell and Wildboar Fell ; and rejected, far to the south, by a general rising on the whole of the south- eastern margin of the district. 2. The relative elevations of land in and around the Lake district, which we behold at this day, were acquired at that time ; and their absolute elevation above the sea, may be stated, with much probability, at about 500 feet less than it is at present. The evidence for this will im- mediately appear. & 25S GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. PERMIAN STEATA. If a line be drawn from near Lancaster, across the Bay of Morecambe, and continued across Furness, by the town of Dalton, and afterwards by Bootle, Eavenglass, and Egre- mont ; to St. Bees' Head, it will mark the ancient sea-shore after the second great upward movement of the Lake rocks. On the south and west of this line, the new red sandstone is found deposited in nearly horizontal strata, against the ends of vertical, contorted, or variously inclined Palaeozoic rocks, already described. From St. Bees the line is interrupted for a space by the modern sea, but is re- covered near Maryport, and thence sweeps continuously round the Lake region, south of Allonby and Wigton, west of Penrith and Appleby, to Kirkby Stephen. From this point, as from a deep bay, the line of ancient coast returns by Brough and Dufton, beneath the range of the Cross Fell mountains, to cross the Irthing and the Liddel, and extend long arms into the vales of Annan and Dum- fries, and finally open into Solway Firth and the Irish Sea. Along the line thus defined, the sea washed cliffs and slopes of slate and granite, from near Bootle to near Egre- mont ; coal strata from St. Bees to Maryport ; easy slopes of mountain limestone, and its associated grits and shales, as far as Kirkby Stephen ; and steep cliffs of the same rocks, from this point far to the northward. Along all this much- varied shore, and in the adjoining deeps and shallows, new and extensive deposits happened, which (with only the exception of one mass of beds) are not derived from, nor even characterised by, the mineral aggregates, which the waters touched and wasted. They generally consist of red sandstones and red marls (occasionally varied by lighter greenish tints, in which the peroxide of iron plays a very remarkable part). Iron exists, and often abundantly, in mountain limestone and coal formations, but generally as protoxide, or carbonate of the protoxide. Such is also the condition of the iron in almost the whole slate series, GEOLOGY OP THE LAKE3. 259' while in the old red sandstone the peroxide prevails. Thus we have the following mineral series from above : Permian and New Red Peroxides. Carboniferous Protoxides. Old Red Peroxides. Slaty Protoxides. The red deposits are by far too extensively spread in Europe, and even beyond its limits, and their characters are too constant and general, to allow of being understood as the effect of local influences. We must believe that the lake mountains were surrounded by the red sandstones, through the agency of sea-currents, which derived their colouring admixtures from the waste of distant shores ; and gathered these admixtures in such abundance, as to fill all the oceanic basins of that geological age, in Europe, with the same, or a very similar, series of depositions. To this conclusion there is one exception. There is one set of beds associated with tLe red series, and forming sometimes its lowest visible part, which is only locally dis- tributed, and is evidently of local origin. This is a series of beds, often approaching to or constituting limestone, but generally full of fragments, either angular or rolled, derived from the rocks of the adjacent shores, especially from the mountain limestone rocks, which formed, in fact, a large portion thereof. To this the name of calcareo- magnesian conglomerate is applicable. It has been long regarded as the equivalent of the magnesian limestone of Yorkshire ' and Derbyshire, and lately Murchison and Harkness have confirmed the reference. It may be studied near Whitehaven, and to great advantage at Stenkrith Bridge, near Kirkby Stephen. Exactly similar characters belong to rocks similarly circumstanced in the new red series, in many other parts of England ; and have always been considered good evi- dence of the shore-line of the sea of the later period. These pebbly deposits are, in fact, the sea-beach of that era, and are usually covered up by, and intermixed with, sands, as modern beaches are mingled with sandbanks. 260 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. The sands below the calcareous conglomerate receive the title of the lower new red or Rothe-todtliegende, and have been described by Professor Sedgwick near Whitehaven, lying immediately above the coal. Of those which succeed the calcareous conglomerate, a portion may probably be reckoned as upper Permian deposits ; but there is no cer- tainty as to this except at St. Bees' Head. The Permian sandstones spread into Dumfriesshire, and bear the foot- prints of reptiles at Lochmaben. TRIAS OR NEW RED. The greater part of the red sandstones and marls with gypsum, which occur in the vale of Eden, and specially in the northern part of it toward Scotland, belongs to the age of the new red deposits of Cheshire. No fossils. LIAS DEPOSIT. Only in the small tract near Wigton does this, the lowest of the oolitic systems, appear near the Lakes. It yields gryphsea incurva and a few other fossils of the lower or Bucklandian zone of Lias. These are the latest of the regularly stratified sea-deposits in and around the Cumbrian Lake district. Records of many long periods succeeding this epoch have been observed in other parts of the British Isles ; but the geological history of this particular tract is here interrupted, and a wide interval of unknown dura- tion separates the date of the lias strata from the next point of geological time, discernible in the natural monu- ments of the Lake districts. These monuments represent the country as subject to great surface waste, by forces acting nearly at the close of the latest of the great geolo- gical periods which preceded the commencement of historic time. GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. 261 DILUVIAL AND GLACIO-DILUVIAL DEPOSITS. The geologist who is well acquainted with the distinc- tive peculiarities of the rocks of the Lake district may often recognise numerous fragments, and occasionally large blocks of them, in the plains of Cheshire and Staffordshire and on the hills and sea- cliffs of Yorkshire. If, surprised by the phenomenon, he endeavours to investigate its cause, he will remark, that, from the plains of Cheshire, an almost uninterrupted stream (so to speak) of these travelled stones can be followed on the west of the mountainous lands of Derbyshire, Yorkshire, and South Lancashire, till it termi- nates in the granites and slates of the country near Kaven- glass ; while from the Yorkshire coast another stream, or series of streams, of such gravel can be followed to a con- verging channel across the high chain of the Yorkshire hills, at Stainmoor, and from thence over the vale of the Eden and the Crags of Orton, to the granites and slates of Shap Fells, and the syenites and elvans of Carrock and High Pike. Around these summits, or rather on their eastern and southern slopes, multitudes of the blocks occur, often of enormous size. On the eastern sides of Shap Fells, for some miles, thousands of granite blocks are spread, often at considerable elevations. What has given to these streams of pebbles their de- terminate courses, lifting them above great inequalities of level, and yet not enabling them to overpass, except in the hollow of Stainmoor, and in one other situation in the valley of the Yorkshire Calder, the great ridge of the car- boniferous mountains ? To this question four answers of a speculative character have been returned, partly founded on the general advance of geological opinions, partly. on the progress of inquiry touching the phenomena of erratic boulders. 1. The phenomenon has been called Diluvial, and pro- nounced to be due to the great oceanic floods, uplifted and thrown suddenly, and with violence, over the land, so as forcibly to bear away fragments of the rocks and quantities 262 GEOLOGY OP THE LAKES. of detritus, for considerable distances, over hills and valleys, and leave them in a peculiar state of aggregation. The direction which these floods have followed in the British Isles has been generally from north-west to south-east. (See Buckland's Reliquiae Diluviance, 1821.) 2. The same effects have been ascribed, not to one cataclysmal agent, but to a succession of upward movements of the bed of the sea ; which, by generating oceanic action in succession at all points of the Lake region, would neces- sarily cause a drift of the disintegrated masses seaward ; and the movement being supposed to happen parallel to a right line from north-east to south-west, the drift would be to the south-east, which accords with the observations. (See Phillips' Treatise on Geology, 1837.) 3. Following the traces of Charpentier among the glaciers of the Alps, M. Agassiz has given us the specula- tion of the transport of erratic blocks far from their original sites by the action of glaciers, believed to have occupied anciently larger areas, to have been formed on greater elevations, and to have extended themselves, and carried the fragments of rocks and heaps of detritus, which usually encumber their surface and travel with the moving icy mass, to greater distances. As applied to the case of the travelled detritus of the Lake mountains, this specula- tion requires the supposition that the whole mountain region was covered with perpetual snows, so as to become a fountain of glaciers, which moved in different directions, and carried from the eastern borders of Cumberland the granites and syenites of Shap and Carrock to Stainmoor, Thirsk, and Flamborough ; and from the western side, the granites of Eavenglass to Lancaster, Preston, and Man- chester, leaving them in heaps and ridges like the moraines of the Alps. (Agassiz, Etudes sur les Glaciers, 1840.) 4. The experience of arctic and antarctic voyagers has suggested a fourth hypothesis. In high northern and southern latitudes, icebergs which are often only the broken-off ends of glaciers are met with bearing loads of the rocks which originally fell on the glacier. In the course of melting, by the interference of currents, or by GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 263 grounding in shallow water, these ice-rafts lose their equili- brium or their flotation, and their load or surface detritus falls on the bed of the sea, making heaps similar in several respects to the moraines left on land by glaciers, but bear- ing more or less of the usual characters of deposits in water, some marks of stratification, some attrition of the materials, some sorting of the masses according to weight and magnitude, some admixture of the exuviae of animals living in the sea at the time. (Murchison's Silurian System, 1837 ; Lyell's Principles of Geology.} To discuss these hypotheses at length would be equi- valent to writing a treatise on the whole of the later periods of Geology. The first supposition, the uplifting of the sea, is contrary to experience, and cannot be supported by evidence collected in and around the district of the Lakes, for all the phenomena which have been cited in its favour seem to be more easily accounted for by the second hypothesis the uprising of the land. This, however, re- quires the additional postulate, that nearly the whole of the mountain regions of the north of England, which had been uplifted prior to the new red sandstone, had again sunk prior to the sera of detrital deposits. This may be allowed. The third or glacial hypothesis seems encumbered with an opposite difficulty, as it appears to require us to admit, on the contrary, that these mountain tracts were very much more elevated before that sera than they are at pre- sent. For otherwise, how is the greater cold and more extended icy tract to be accounted for ? That they were affected by such intense cold seems to be proved by the appearance of smoothed and scratched rocks, such as are seen in the valleys of Switzerland, and by the accumula- tions of moraines such as everywhere mark 'the actual or ancient limits of glaciers. If, however, the great warmth brought by the South Atlantic winds and currents were withdrawn from the shores of Europe, we might perhaps have again the mean temperature of the Lake district towards 12, and in that case perpetual snows might crown the summits, and deep glaciers move down the valleys. A remarkable case of scratched rocks and boulders 264 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. was noticed by the writer in the limestone district of Conishead, near Ulverston, where the rocks were cleared from beneath a covering of detritus. Other cases of this description occur on the slaty surfaces far above the levels of Windermere, Thirlmere, and Ullswater ; and traces of glacial action have been found in all the valleys which radiate from the mountain mass of Great Gable.* Finally, the fourth or iceberg hypothesis implies the elevation of the Cumbrian district, its covering of ice and snow, and its streams of glacier ; and, further, requires around this elevated tract, wherever the detritus spreads, sea-channels and sea-currents. This latter condition is very easily admitted, and may, in fact, be regarded as proved (by the occurrence of marine shells), not only for the loio vale of Eden, the loio vale of York, and the low plains of Lancashire and Cheshire ; that is to say, for sur- faces not more than 300 or 400 feet above the actual sea-level ; but, as near Macclesfield, to the height of 1000 feet. This proof may be hereafter extended, and is not in opposition to discoveries of quadrupedal bones in gravel, clay, and caverns, which appear to prove that large surfaces in Yorkshire and the eastern parts of Lancashire were dry land during some parts of the long periods preceding, accompanying, and following the glaciers. And thus, upon the whole, it is probable that for the distribution of the erratic boulders from the Cumbrian mountains, we may keep in view two hypotheses, viz. 1 . The rising of the whole Cumbrian region out of the sea, by gradual or periodical efforts, and the consequent literal violence and oceanic currents which might drift the boulders and gravel over the sea-bed ; and, 2. The covering of the already uplifted mountains with glaciers, and the drifting of the broken ends of these glaciers (" icebergs"}, with their load of detritus across the sea, till they melted, stranded, or overturned. But which of these views contains most of true theory, and how they may be combined, will be determined by further observa- tion, and the general progress of geological reasoning. * Bryce in Rep. of Brit. Assoc. 1855. GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 265 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The establishment of a correct theory of the dispersion of erratic rocks from the Cumbrian mountains is the more desirable, because its postulates involve one of the grand conditions on which the explanation of the actual surface features of the Lake district must be founded. These conditions are, in fact, four ; first, the nature of the various rocks ; secondly the position in which they have been placed by disturbances in the crust of the earth ; thirdly, the state in which the district was left after its elevation above the sea ; and finally, the effect of subsequent atmo- spheric agencies. The whole surface of the earth is undergoing momen- tary changes by the operation of atmospheric influences. The mountains are wasted, the valleys are modified in form, the lakes are diminished in depth. The hardest stones are decomposed by chemical agency, burst by frost, or displaced by the wasting of other more yielding masses, and thus, from day to day, really, though only from year to year, or from age to age, sensibly, the features of every country undergo important changes. It is in mountain districts that these changes are most easily observed and traced to their causes ; and this is a class of observations which may be prosecuted with especial pleasure and advantage by tourists among the English Lakes. The main features of the district are easily referrible to disturbances in the crust of the earth, for these have given the relative elevations of the same group of rocks, and de- termined the geographical areas of their extension. The ranges of mountains, and lines of valleys and lakes, are in like manner attributable to movements in the crust of the earth ; but the particular forms of the mountains and precipices, and the peculiar characters of valleys and lakes, must be sought in the nature of the rocks, acted on by the sea-currents at the time of this dislocation of the land, and subsequently modified by changes of temperature, precipi- tations of rain, and flowing of rivers and inundations. 266 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. The effect of changes of temperature and moisture on rocks may be judged of by their effect on buildings. The Cathedral Church at Carlisle is a proof of the rapid decay of new red sandstone, by disintegration and exfoliation ; but the greater proportion of the rocks in and around the Lake district may be pronounced durable. Hence, the bold precipices of the middle slate tract, the rough blocks and tors of the granite of Ravenglass. the mural crown of Ingleborough, and the high cliffs of limestone in Kendal Fell, Witherslack Scar, and Farlton Knot. These rocks resist, and yet, beyond a certain point, their resistance is vain. The cohesion of the constituent minerals fails in the granite of the Caldew ; the felspar yields to chemical de- composition in the syenite of Carrock Fell ; the limestone is dissolved at the surface by the water and carbonic acid of the air ; and all are from time to time split, divided, aud shaken down by frost, and other causes. The erosive power of rain may be well studied on the broad surfaces of limestone in Farlton Knot, near Burton, and under Ingleborough, where innumerable channels of small depth, winding over the flat surfaces, or passing in converging or parallel lines down the slopes till swallowed up in the fissures of the rock, afford most interesting and characteristic examples. The more violent effects of rivers are everywhere traceable in the cutting of their actual channels, and the occasional change of their course. A very curious and instructive variation from the ordinary modes of action may be examined in the bed of the river Eden, at Stenkrith Bridge, near Kirkby Stephen, where the calcareous conglomerate, at the base of the new red formation, lies in broad floors across the course of the stream. The conglomerate is worn into various and picturesque forms, but the most interesting circumstance is the occurrence of many cylindrical pits like wells, and usually full of clear water and a few pebbles. The pits are from a foot to several feet in diameter, and from a few inches to several feet in depth. The formation of these cavities is still in progress. The stream, in times of in- undation, brings down fragments of stone, and these, GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 267 whirled round by the eddies, soon excavate hollows, which, in time, are deepened and enlarged into pits, by a con- tinuation of the same operations. Similar effects have been noticed under waterfalls, in various localities, but cases like that at Stenkrith Bridge are not common. The pits called " swallow holes," which are frequent along the outcropping of limestone beds round the western mountains of Yorkshire, and are also seen about Hesket Newmarket, owe their smooth and rounded surfaces to the downward passage of water, acidulated by the decay of vegetable substances, or the decomposition of iron pyrites. The great and winding chasms of the limestone at Caldbeck, near Hesket Newmarket, the singular hollows of the same rock under Pen-y-ghent in Yorkshire, and the magnificent caverns of Ingleborough, are all to be referred to watery action, directed along particular channels, by original peculiarities in the structure and position of the rocks. They are in fact often uncovered caves ; under Ingle- borough and Whamside it may be seen that fissures in limestone, enlarged by rain-streams from the surface, become caves ; caves fall in and leave chasms, slowly softened by surface agencies to picturesque glens and smiling valleys. Similarly, the peculiar characters of waterfalls may be traced to the nature and structure of the rocks, their posi- tions, and degree of exposure to watery action. The picturesque confusion of Lowdore, occasioned by the fre- quent and variously directed joints of the slaty rocks ; the tremendous chasm of Scale Force, a mere fissure in the syenitic front of the mountain ; the interrupted cascades which appear in a hundred valleys after every great fall of rain may all furnish new themes of reflection to the tourist, and new ideas to the artist, if instructed in geology. Paintings of natural scenery, to be characteristic, must be in some degree geological ; the rocks of Stockgill, Skelgill, and Cautley Spout, must not be painted like those of Barbon Beck, Kirkby Lonsdale, Ingleton, or Hawes ; the outline and the slopes of Skiddaw are of a different order from those of Helvellyn, Scafell, and the Old Man ; and he must be a poor limner who should not distinguish from 268 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. all these the forms of Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent, and Cross Fell. Even in the representation of the Lakes, a geolo- gically instructed eye will mark the characteristic effects of known causes. The sides of Swiss and Cumbrian lakes may be precipitous, but the upper end, which receives sediment from rivers, is margined by flat meadows, tinted by aquatic plants, while the lower end is often, terminated by heaps of detritus left by earlier streams, or still earlier glaciers. No one can long watch these various characters of surface, and trace them back to their proximate causes, without feeling satisfied of the important changes which a few hundreds or a few thousands of years may occasion in the aspect of a country. Some writers, following Hutton and Playfair, have endeavoured to show that nearly all the lesser inequalities of surface are due to the action of modern " diurnal" causes that the valleys were excavated by the rivers that run in them, and the moun- tains roughened by atmospheric vicissitudes alone. But the lakes of this district may be appealed to, in the same manner that the lakes of Switzerland have been invoked, for proof that in this part of their system those geologists were in error, and that De Luc was in the right. If the Derwent excavated Borrowdale, where is the detritus ? What is now brought by the torrent subsides in the upper end of the expanse of water, and is daily and hourly growing in extent. The delta thus formed is a good index of the whole waste effected in the drainage of the Derwent, and a correct measure of the amount of sediment brought by its waters since they began to flow. This argument applies to every valley in the districts where lakes appear, and is probably conclusive for other districts from which lakes are absent. Professor Eamsay has, indeed, lately endeavoured to meet the difficulty of accounting for the existence of such lakes in the Alps and elsewhere, by supposing them to have been excavated by glaciers, during the cold period already referred to. De Luc and Professor Sedgwick appeal to this same fact, viz., the small amount of sediment which has been GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 269 brought into lakes, for proof of the comparatively short period of time during which the rivers have flowed that is to say, since the final elevation of the land out of the sea. The argument will probably be found convincing ; but to be completely satisfactory, we must possess two data, neither of which is certainly known. We must know, in respect of any particular example, the total volume of sediment which has been deposited in the lake, and also the amount annually added to it. The annual growth of sediment can be measured, the total accumula- tion of it may be estimated, and thus the problem may be approximately solved, and the age of the river be known in centuries or thousands of years. On a review of what is here said, we recognise in the geological history of the area now adorned by the English lakes, three grand and lengthened periods of continuous depositions in the sea, separated by shorter intervals of submarine disturbance and subterranean movement. The FIRST PERIOD includes the depositions of the Schistose rocks, commencing without any trace of organic remains, ending with a rich display of invertebral animals. Then follows a general disturbance of the earth's crust ; a series of flexures, of anticlinal and synclinal axes, and an elevation of parts of the land, so that apparently the Lake district became an island of considerable altitude. . The SECOND PERIOD gave birth to the old red sand- stones, the mountain limestones, the millstone grit, and the coal formations ; in which a vast variety of INVER- TEBRATE ANIMALS and MANY FISHES abound, and, at the close of the period, a wonderful abundance of land plants which were afterwards converted to coal. The second great system of disturbance caused the breaking up of all the previously deposited strata, not so much on anticlinal and synclinal lines, as by great frac- tures or faults. Tims the insular district of slates became united to wider tracts of land by the isthmus of Howgill and Barbon Fells, and the ocean received entirely new boundaries. 270 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. The THIRD PERIOD commenced with a repetition of thick red deposits ; in other districts these are followed by various strata (lias, oolite, chalk) ; but round the Lakes only the lias is known, and nothing else remains to mark an enormous lapse of time which, elsewhere, has left in- numerable clear monuments. The cause of this deficiency of oolitic and cretaceous deposits, we do not clearly see. It apparently depends on the division of the ancient ocean by the great Pennine chain, and by other ridges, which excluded from the vicinity of the slaty islands the sediments poured into the waters on the eastern side of the region of limestone and coal. The geological series is thus broken, and the history a blank till the diluvial sera, when some general and characteristic conditions overspread the whole northern zones of the world, caused the universal waste of the elevated land, and transported the granites, syenites, slates, and limestones of the Lake district, into situations where no actual stream could carry them, and with circumstances which it is difficult to account for under any combination of real or admissible agencies. Thus it happens continually in natural science ; we proceed triumphantly to solve a variety of difficult problems, and to apply the solution to practical use for the benefit of man ; but obstacles infallibly arise to stay for a while our farther progress, to remind us that the power of man over nature is limited by the necessity of obeying her, our acquaintance with the laws of nature bounded by observation of phenomena, our in- terpretation of the history of the ancient land and sea founded on the. knowledge which we can gain of the mechanical, chemical, and vital forces now at work, in the air and the waters, on mountains and valleys, on the surface of the land and in the deep recesses of the earth. It is this close connection of geology with the progress of collateral science, which has gained for it so many and such enthusiastic followers. It magnifies our wonder and reverence for the ages that have gone ; but it no less encourages our admiration for the goodness which is active GEOLOGY OF THE LAKES. 271 around us ; it speaks of the preadamitic world, but it shows by what processes of nature that void earth was transformed to be the beautiful and instructive abode of man ; it reveals to us periods of immense duration anterior to historic time, but it traces through all of them the simple and permanent laws of Providence, and strengthens our anticipation of the immeasurable future by the con- victions which it has gathered from a contemplation of the immeasurable past. Note. This Essay was first published in 1846. The published views of Professor Sedgwick on the Geology of the Lake district are chiefly contained in the Transactions and Proceedings of the Geological Society of London (1831 and following years), and in the Letters to Mr. Wordsworth already referred to (1842). His latest communications have been mainly directed towards an exact allocation of the several groups of the upper slaty rocks, on the scale of the Silurian rocks of Wales. Mr. Ruthven published a geological map of the district (1855). The labours of Professor Harkness on Skiddaw slates may be found in the Proceedings of the Geological Society (1863) ; and the latest researches of this author and Sir E. I. Murchison on Permian rocks around the Lake district appear in the same publication Q864V SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. NAMES OF MOUNTAINS. Height in Feet. Scawfell Pike (Cumberland) Scawfell (Cumberland) .... Helvellyn (Cumberland and Westmorland) . Skiddaw (Cumberland) .... Bowfell (Cumberland and Westmorland) Great Gable (Cumberland) Pillar (Cumberland) Crossfell (Cumberland and Durham) . Fail-field (Westmorland) . Saddleback (Cumberland) .... Grasmoor (Cumberland) St. Sunday Crag (Westmorland) . High Street (Westmorland) Hart Crag, Rydal Head (Westmorland) Red Pike (Cumberland) .... Grisedale Pike (Cumberland) Coniston Old Man (Lancashire) . Glaramara (Cumberland) .... Hill Bell (Westmorland) .... Harrison Stickle ) T , , ., /TTT , Pike o' Stickle } LaQ g dale Plkes (Westmorland) Carre ck Fell Cumberland) .... High Pike, Caldbeck Fells (Cumberland) . Walna Sear ^Lancashire) .... Black Combe (Cumberland) Mell Fell (Cumberland) .... Honister Crag (Cumberland) Wansfell (Westmorland) .... Dent Hill (Cumberland) .... Loughrigg Fell (Westmorland) . Penrith Beacon (Cumberland) Stilly Bank, near Whitehaven (Cumberland) PASSES : Nanbield, between Ken tm ere and Mardale . Grisedale Hause, between Patterdale and Grasmert Gatescarth, between Longsleddale and Mardale Black Sail The Stake, between Langdale and Borrowdale Sty Head (Cumberland) .... Scarf Gap ....... Hause, between Buttermere Dale and Newlands Kirkstoue (Westmorland) .... Hause, between Buttermere and Borrowdale Dunmail Raise (Cumberland and Westmorland) 3208 3161 3118 3058 2960 2949 2927 2928 2862 2847 2805 2755 2718 2697 2650 2605 2633 2560 2476 (2401 ( 2323 2173 2165 2035 1974 1750 170D 1581 1130 1101 966 530 2000 1929 1925 1690 1576 1560 1370 1160 14S1 1100 774 Highest English Mountain, Scawfell Pike, Cumberland . 3'JuS feet. Highest Welsh Mountain, Snowdon, Caernarvonshire . 3571 Highest Irish Mountain, Gilrraue Tual, Kerry . . 3404 Highest Scottish Mountain, Ben Nevis, Inverness-shire . 440H SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF LAKES. NAME. Extreme length by breadth in miles. Extreme depth in feet. Height in feet above the sea. Page. Windermere (Westm. and Lane.) 10 byl 240 134 18 Ullswater (Cumb. and Westm.) 9 1 210 380 147 Coniston Water (Lancashire) 6 * 160 147 72 Bassenthwaite Water (Cumberland) 4 - *, 68 210 108 Derwentwater (Cumberland) 3 1* 72 222 109 Crummock Water (Cumberland) 3 f 132 240 123 Wast Water (Cumberland) . 3 4 270 204 133 Hawes Water (Westmorland) 3 * 300 443 195 Tbirlemere (Cumberland) 2f J 108 473 97 Ennerdale Water (Cumberland) 2* * 80 206 Esthwaite Water (Lancashire) 2" * 80 217 71 Buttermere (Cumberland) H f 247 120 Grasmere (Westmorland) H,, * 180 208 56 Lowes Water (Cumberland) . Brother's Water (Westmorland) i * f " * ... 125 156 Rydalmere (Westmorland) . 156 54 Red Tarn, Helvellyn (Westmorland) ... 2400 160 Sprinkling Tarn, Borrowdale) 1960 135 (Cumberland) . . j ICAL VIEW OF WATERFALLS. NAME. Height in feet. SITUATION. Page. Scale Force (Cumberland) . 156 South-west side of Crum- mock Lake 123 Barrow Cascade (Cumb.) . 124 East side of Derwentwater 113 Lodore Cascade (Cumb.). 100 East side of Derwentwater 113 Colwith Force (Westm.) . 90 Little Langdale . 64 Airey Force (Cumberland) 80 West side of Ullswater 150 Dungeon Gill Force (West.) 80 South-east side of Langdale Pikes 66 Stock Gill Force (Westm.) 70 Ambleside .... 41 Birker Force (Cumberland) 60 South side of Eskdale 219 Stanley Gill Force (Cumb.) 60 South side of Eskdale 219 Sour Milk Force (Cumb.) 60 South side of Buttermere . 6?, 120 Upper Fall, Rydal (West.) 50 Rydal Park 49 Skelwith Fcrce (Westm.) . 20 On the stream flowing from Elter Water . 64 274 MEMOEANDA FOE BOTANISTS. The period of flowering is indicated by the figures following the locality, as 5-9= May to September, etc. Agrostis vulgaris, var. pumila, common on high elevations 7-8. Alchemillaalpina, Helvellyn; Scawfell; Skiddaw; Longsleddale ; Ashness Ghyll 6-7. Allosorus crispus, common in the district 7. Anagallis tenella, Scroggs, Loughrigg ; near the Inn, Patterdale 7-8. Anchusa sempervirens, near Kendal ; Pooler Bridge ; Lowther Wood 5-8. Arabia petrea, Screes, Wastwaster 7-8. Arbutus uva-ursi, Grasmoor ; Crummock 6. Arenaria verna, Helvellyn ; Fairfield; Ken da! Fell 5-9. Armeria maritima, Helvellyn (3000 feet) 7-8. Asarum Europseum, near Keswick 4-5. Asplenium alternifolium, said to be found in the district, but very doubtful 5-10. Borrowdale. Asplenium septentrionale, Borrowdale 6-10 viride, near Kendal ; Scout Scar; Ashness Ghyll 6-10. trichomanes, var. depauperatum, rare, Kydal. var. subcequale, rare, Wfh derm ere. var. ramosum, rare, near Keswick, and at Windeimere. var. incisum, Borrowdale. Astragalus glycyphyllus, rocks at Humphrey Head, Cartmell 6-7. Athyrium ovatum, Jloth., near Keswick 7-8. Atropa Belladonna, Furness Abbey ; Flookburgh 6-8. Blechnum Koreale, var. ramosum, Windermere. var. strictum, do. Botrychium lunaria, near Kendal ; foot of Skiddaw 7. Caltha palustris, var. radicans, margins of lakes 4-6. Campanula glomerata, foot of Ulleswater ; Hardendale 6-8. latifolia, common in hedges 7-9. trachelium, Park-head Lane, Kendal, 7-8. Carduus heterophyllus, Hardendale, near Shap ; Peat Lane, near Kendal ; Longsleddale 7-8. Carduus nutans, near toll-bar, Shap 7-8. Carex dioica, plentiful at Wythburn Head 5-6. rigida, Helvellyn; Skiddaw; Scawfell 6-7. Corastium alpinum, rocks above Red Tarn, Helvelhm 6-7. MEMORANDA FOR BOTANISTS. 275 Ceterach officinarum, Kendal Fells. Circsea alpina, margins of Ulleswater and Derwent Lakes ; Ash- ness Ghyll 7-8. Cladium mariscus, Cunswick Tarn 7. Colchicum autumnale, Mintsfeet, near Kendal 10. Cystopteris fragilis, in profusion at a bridge between Ulleswater and Airey Force; Whinlatter; near Kendal; Ruffa Bridge 7. Cystopteris angustata, Helvellyn 7. dentata, Ruffa Bridge ; Naddle 7. Corydalis solida, Vale of Newlands 5. Drosera longifolia, Ullock Moss ; near Gilpin Bridge 7-8. Epilobium aYsinifolium, Whinlatter ; near Snap; Longsleddale 7. angustifolium, High Barrow Bridge, near Shap 7. Epipactis ensifolia, Barrowfield Woods, Kendal : Lowther Woods _ 5-6. Epipactis grandiflora, Lowther Woods 6. latifolia, Cockermouth Road 7-8. palustris, near Cunswick Tarn 7. Euonymus Europseus, Lowdore Road 5-6. Galium boreale, margins of lakes 6-9. Geranium columbinum, Fell Foot, Newby Bridge ; Canal banks, Kendal 6-7. Geranium phseum, near Kirby Lonsdale ; near Kendal 5-6. pyrenaicum, Dale Head, Thirlmere 6-7. sylvaticum, Coniston Water head ; near Kendal ; How- ray, Keswick 6-7. Gnaphalium dioicum, Kendal Fell ; Knipe Scar ; Orion Scar ; Longsleddale ; Screes 6-7. Habenaria albida, Watendlath 6-7. bifolia, margin of Derwent Lake; Wytbburn Head; Watendlath 6-7. Habenaria chlorantha, abundant in moist situations 6-7. . viridis, Tenter Fell, near Kendal ; Watendlath 6-?. Helianthemum canum, rocks at Humphrey Head ; Scout Scar 5-7. Hesperis matronalis, Dale Head, Thirlmere 5-6. Hieracium alpinum, Helvellyn at Grisedale Tarn 6-8. aurantiacum, near Keswick (?) 6-9. Lawsoni, between Shap and Anna Well 6-8. Hipocrepis comosa, Scout Scar ; Shap 5-8. Humulus lupulus, hedges near Keswick and Grasmere 7. Hydrocotyle vulgaris, in bogs near lakes 5-7. Hymenophyllum Wilsoni, Lowdore Fall ; Nook, Ambleside ; Sv&te Force; Wallow Crag, Haweswater; Dungeon Ghyll 7 Hypericum elodes, Ullock Moss 7-8. androssemum, Ferry, Windermere 7. Impatiens noli-me-tangere, Stock Ghyll Force 7-9. Isotes lacustris, in most of the lakes 1-4. 276 MEMORANDA FOK BOTANISTS. Juncus filiformis, margin of Derwent Lake 7. triglumis, rocks above Red Tarn ; Fairfield 7. Lathrsea squamaria, Winder Scar ; Cunswick Wood 4-5. Lepedium Smithii, margin of Derwent Lake 7-8. Littorella lacustris, margin of Derwent Lake 6-7. Lobelia dortmanna, plentiful in the lakes 7-8. Lotus major, road sides 7-8. Luzula campestris, var. congesta, Ullock Moss 4-5. Forsteri, Lowdore 5-7. spicata, Fairfield 7. Lycopodium alpinum, on all the mountains 8. annotinum, said to be found on Langdale Pikes 8. Clavatum, on all tbe mountains 7-8. inundatum, in a bog half way between Keswick and Wythburn 8-9. Lycopodium Selaginoides, bogs on the mountains 8. Selago, common on hills 6-8 Lythrum hyssopifolium, said to grow at south end of Derwent Lake 6-9. Malva Moschata, Cockermouth road 7-8. Meconopsis cambrica, near Ambleside 6. Mentha rotundifolia, Lowdore 8-9. ileum athamanticum, Docker Garths, Kendal 6-7. Myosotis csespitosa, Hallen Fell ; Helvellyn 6-8. palustris, var. strigulosa, River Derwent, near Keswick 6-7. Myosotis repens, Vale of Newlands ; Skiddaw ; Helvellyn ; Wast- dale 6-8. Myrica gale, in most bogs 5. Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus, near Kendal 3-5. Neottia Nidus-avis, Cunswick Wood; Wallow Wood, Keswick 5-6. Nupharlutea, in most of the lakes 7. Nymphaea alba, in all the large lakes 7. Ophioglossum vulgatum, Barrowfield Wood, Kendal ; foot oi Skiddaw 6. Ophrys mucifera, Barrowfield Wood 5-6. Orchis latifolia, Watendlath ; Borrowdale 5. pyrarnidalis, Watendlath 7. Osmunda regalis, Ullock Moss ; road side near Whitbarrow ; Scroggs bog, near Birthwaite ; do. St. John's Wood, near Portinscale 7 -9 . Oxyria renilbrmis, Longsleddale ; Wastdale Head ; Helvellyn ; Ashness Ghyll ; Great End Crag 7-8. Paris quadrifolia, Lowther Woods; near Shap Abbey; Stock Ghyll 5. Phragmites communis, in most of the lakes 7. MEMORANDA FOR BOTANISTS. 277 Polygonum viviparum, Helvellyn 6-7. Polypodium calcareum, Kendal Fells 7. dryopteris, common in the district 7. phegopteris, common in the district 7-9. vulg., var. truncatum, Windermere. var. multiforme, do. Poterium sanguisorba, Scout Scar ; Knipe Scar ; Shap Fells 6-8 Primula farinosa, in wet places in limestone districts 6. Pteris aquilina, var. multifida, St. John's Wood, near Keswick. Pyrola secunda, Helvellyn ; near Keswick 7. Pyrus aria, Scout Scar 5. Ranunculus aquatilis, Thirlmere ; Derwent Kiver 5-6. circinatus, Ulleswater 6. fluitans, Derwent Lake 5-6. - hederaceus, common 5-9. Lenormandi, common 5-8. Lingua, Naddle Beck 6-7. Rhamnus Frangula, Cockshot and Ullock, Keswick 5-6. Radiola Millegrana, Swinside 7-8. Rhodiola rosea, Longsleddale ; Helvellyn ; Screes 6-7. Rosa bractescens, Ambleside 6. cinnamomia, Howray, Keswick 5. gracilis, Whinlater 5. Rubus chamaemorus, Goat Scar, Longsleddale 6. saxatilis, Cockshot Wood 7-8. Salix herbacea, Scawfell ; Helvellyn ; Skiddaw 6. Sambucus Ebulus, Lane near Scale Hill 7-8. Sanguisorba officinalis, Meadows near Kendal and Keswick 6-8 Saponaria officinalis, under Kirby, Lonsdale Bridge 6-9. Sausurea alpina, Stridding Edge8. Saxifraga aizoides, wet situations on mountains 7-9. hypnoides, do. do. 5-6. nivalis, rocks above Ked Tarn, Helvellyn 7-8. oppositifolia, Stridding Edge ; Great End ; Screes (? 4-5. Saxifraga stellaris, wet places on mountains 7. tridactylites, old walls at Dacre ; Sirrel ; Pooley 4-7. Scutellaria minor, margin of Crummock and Wast Water Lakes 7-9. Sedum anglicum, foot of Helvellyn ; Castle Head 7-8. Teliphium, Lowdore road 7-8. Senecio Sarracenicus, Stock Beck, near Kendal ; Howray, near Keswick 7-9. Serratnla tinctoria, river-side, Newby Bridge 7-9. Sesleria cserulea, Knipe Scar; Orton Scar; Scout Scar; Winder Scar 4-5. Silene acaulis, Great End ; Helvellyn, near Grisedale Tarn 6-8. Spiraea salicifolia, Pool Bridge ; Hawkshead ; lane near Butter- mere 7. Tamus communis, hedges at Kendal 6. 278 MEMORANDA FOR BOTANISTS. Tbalictrum alpinum, Helvellyn ; Great End Crag ; Fairfield 6. Thalictram flavum, margin of Derwent River at Howray 6-7. majus, foot of Tbirlmere ; Lowdore ; near Poolej Bridge ; Screes 6-7. Thalictrum minus, Scout Scar ; Great End ; Derwent Lake 6-7 Trollius Europseus, margins of lakes 6-7. Typha angusti folia, Rydal Lake 6-7. latifolia, Naddle Beck 7. Ulex nanus, Whinlatter; Pooley Bridge; Wastdale 8-11. var. major, Bab. Great Robinson 8-11. Utricularia minor, ditcbes on west side of Derwent Lake 6-7. vulgaris, Derwent Lake 6-8. Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea, summit of Skiddaw ; Helvellyn ; Scaw- fell 5-6. Valeriana dioica, in bogs near Bampton, Sbap, Pooley Bridge, Kendal, &c. 5-6. Veronica spicata, Rocks at Humpbrey Head, Cartmell 7-8. Viola hirta, Barrowfield wood 3-4. lutea, Skiddaw 5-7. palustris, Spital wood 4-6. Woodsia ilvensis, Westmorland, and near Bowness, Cumberland, MEMOKANDA. WILLIAM WORDSWORTH. Born at Cockermouth, 1770. Died at Rydal Mount, 22d April 1850. RESIDENCES First, Townend and Allan Bank, Grasmere. Second, Rydal Mount. SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE. Born 1772. Died 1834. Resided with Southey and Wordsworth. ROBERT SODTHEY. Born 1774. Died 1843. Residence Greta Hall, Keswick. JOHN WILSON (CHRISTOPHER NORTH). Born 1788. Died 1854. Residence Elleray, near Windermere. THOMAS DE QUINCEY. Born 1785. Died 1859. Residence Townend and Allan Bank, Grasmere. NOTES FOE PEDESTKIANS. WALKS FROM AMBLESIDE. To STOCK GILL WATERFALL, mile. SCANDAL BECK about three furlongs on the Keswick road ; pursue the stream at pleasure for two or three miles. Aquatic Excursion on WINDERMERE, 6f miles. | Landing at Clappersgate . . J | Mouth of the River . . 1 J 1 PallWyke . . . . 2J If Low -wood Hotel . . . 4J J Holm Point . . . . 4J J Return to the mouth of the river f Landing | Ambleside . To the FERRY by the Lake. 1} Mouth of the River by the landing 3 Bell Grange . . . . 2J Ferry House, passing between the Lily of the Valley Holms . 3 From the Ferry House to landing on Curwen's Island . . 1| Round the island . . 9i 4J From the Pier to head of the Lake . . . .14 1J Ambleside . . . .15$ 1J If the Station House is visited from the Ferry House . . .17 Round the Lake of WINDERMERE, 29 miles. 1 Brathay Bridge 4 High Wray . 3 Ferry House 7 Newby Bridge 8 Bowness 6 Ambleside . Round the Lake of WINDERMERE by the Ferry Points, 16 miles. 1 Brathay Bridge 7 Ferry House, by High Wray and Bell Grange 2 Bowness 6 Ambleside 15 23 29 From AMBLESIDE along the east side of Esthwaite Water and Windermere Lake, 17 miles. 5 Hawkshead . . . .52 Bowness . . . .11 2 Sawrey . . . .76 Ambleside . . . .17 2 Ferry House . . .9 Esthwaite Water, near the town of Hawkshead, is two miles in length, and its breadth may he stated at half a mile. 280 NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS. From AMBLESIDE by Coniston, Esthwaite, and Windermcre Waters, 27J miles. 8J Coniston . . SJ 2 Down the Lake . . 10i 2 Return to the Hotel . 12J 3 Hawkshead. . . 15J 4 Ferry House 2 Bowness 6 Ambleside . 21J 27i From AMBLESIDE to the Vales of Great and Little LANGDALE, 18 miles. 1 Clappersgate . . 1 1J Guide Post . . 2J } Skelwith Bridge . . 3 1 Colwith Bridge . . 4 1} Little Langdale Tarn . 5J 2J Blea Tarn . . .7} 2 Wall End ... 9} H Lisle Bridge . . 11 2 Langdale Chapel . . 13 2 High Close and to first sight of Grasrnere . 15 2 Pelter Bridge, left of the Lakes . . .17 1 Ambleside . 18 To visit Dungeon Gill, by way of Millbeck from Lisle Bridge, -will add one mile to the route ; and an ascent to the Tarn and Harrison's Stickle, a farther addition of two miles, making the total distance twenty -one miles. From AMBLESIDE, under Loughrigg Fell, to GRASMERE. J Rothay Bridge . . } J Miller Bridge Cottage . } J Miller Bridge Steps . . 1 J Fox Gill . . .1} J Pelter Bridge . . .2 J Coat How . If West's Station } Tail End J Grasmere Church 4 Ambleside . To LOUGHRIGG TARN and GRASMERE. 1 Clappersgate 1J Guide Post i Loughrigg Fold i The Oaks 3 Grasmere Church 4 Ambleside . TILBERTHWAITE, returning by Elter Water HalL 7 Shepherd's Bridge in Yew- dale . . . .7 3 Little Langdale Road by Til- berth waite . . .10 WANSFELL PIKE. Low Fold . . J Terrace Road under Straw- berry Bank . . .1 SkellgUl . . . 1| 1J Wansfell Pike J Waterfall Lane 5 Ambleside 2 Langdale Chapel by Elter Water Hall . . 12 5 Ambleside, by High Close, Grasmere, & Rydal Waters 17 NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS. 281 From AMBLESIDE To KYDAL WATERFALLS. 1J Lower Waterfall J Higher do. If Ambleside. FAIR FIELD. 1 Rydal . . .1 1J Turn on the right between Rydal-hall and Rydal- mount to Knab Scar . 2J 2J Fair Field . 4 Nook End Bridge over the High and Low Pikes i Ambleside . Fair Field is the lofty mountain closing to the north the domain of Rydal From AMBLESIDE to PATTERDALE. Top of Kirkstone Brother Water 1 Cow Bridge 2J Patterdale 71 10 From AMBLESIDE to HAWES WATER. 3 Woundale . . . 3J By Troutbeck Tongue to High Street, where Hayes Water may be seen on the left . . " . . 64 2J Junction of High Street with Riggendale, keeping Blea Water on the right . . 9 2 Chapel Hill . . 11 From AMBLESIDE to HAYES WATER. 6 Low Hart's Hop 2 Hay's Waterhead 2 Return by Low Hart's Hop . 7 Ambleside . From AMBLESIDE to ANGLE TARN. Low Hart's Hop Angle Tarn . Low Hart's Hop Ambleside . From AMBLESIDE, by way of Grasmere, Easedale, Greenup, and Borrowdale, to KESWICK. 4 Grasmere Church . . 4 J Goody Bridge . . 4J J Thorney How . . 5J 1 Far Easedale . . 6J 2i Wythburn Dale Head . 9 J Greenup Dale Head . 9$ 3J Down Greenup Vale tc Stonethwaite . .13 7 Keswiek . . '20 282 NOTES FOU PEDESTRIANS. From GRASMERE to EASEDALE, 5 miles. J Goody Bridge i Steel Bridge 1J Easedale Tarn J Round the Tarn Blind Tarn Gill Steel Bridge Grasmere To HELM CRAG. 1J By Goody Bridge to Thomey- how . . . . J Summit of Helm Crag . J Turn How | Grasmere AMBLESIDE to KESWICK, direct. . 1J j 4 Smeelthwaite Bridge . 12J . 5 2 Castlerigg . 14J . 7 1 Keswick . 15i . 8J 1J Rydal 3J Grasmere '2 Dunmail Raise 1J Nag's Head, Wythburn EXCUESIONS FROM LOW-WOOD HOTEL. SKELGILL from Low- WOOD. 1} Low Fold . . -Hi Troutbeck Road . 1J Skelgill . . . 2} 1 Low-Wood . J Low Skelgill . . .3 This excursion must be performed on foot. From Low WOOD, by way of Troutbeck and Applethwaite, to BOWNESS 2 Guide-Post in Troutbeek I The How in Applethwaite 2J Winlas Beck, formerly Cook's House . 5J If Bowness . . . "1 WALKS FROM PATTERDALE. From PATTERDALE, over Helvellyn, to the Inn at WYTHBURN. 1 Top of Catchedecam . 4i 1 Summit of Helvellyn . 5J 1 Brownrigg's Well . . 5| 2J Nag's Head, Wythbum . 8 1 Grass Stead How . . 1 1J Ridge between Hall Bank and Striding Edge . 2J 1 Foot of Red Tarn . . 3J From PATTERDALE to GRASMERE CHTTRCH, by way of Grisedale Tarn. 4 Grisedale Tarn .414 Grasmere Church . . 8 NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS. 283 From PATTERDALE to DEEPDALE. 3 Wall End 1 Head of the Dale 4 Patterdale ALKS FROM POOLEY BRIDGE, HEAD OF ULLSWATER, 'o the head of HAWES WATER, and thence to CHAPEL HILL at its foot. 4 The road somewhat in a straight line over the Com- mon to Butterswick . 1 Bampton . . .5 2 Head of Hawes Water . 7 3 Chapel Hill . . .10 iV'alk along the Westmorland (east) side of Ullswater to PATTERDALE. 51 - 9| 1J Water side . . 1J Sharrow ' . . li Guide-post at Hallin Fell 1 Sand Wyke . 2 Silvery Bay 2J Patterdale . EXCURSIONS FROM PENRITH. From PENRITH to HAWES WATER. 5 Lowther or Askham (Inn) . 5 7 By Bampton to Hawes Water 12 5 Return by Butterswick . 17 5 Over Moor Dovack to Powley 6 By Dalemain to Penrith From PENRITH to PATTERDALE. 1J The Cumberland Road . 1J 21 Dalemain . . . 3| 2 Junction Westmorland Road 5| 1} Watennillock . . 7J 11 HaUsteads . 2| Lyulph's Tower 4 Patterdale From PENRITH to SHAP ABBEY. 5 Askham 4 Bampton Church 3 Shap Abbey . 12 1 Shap 11 Penrith 8} 11* 15* WALKS FROM KESWICK. from KESWICK to BORROWDALE, making the circuit of Denvent Water 2 BaiTow House and Cascade . 2 1 Lodore Waterfall (Inn) . 3 1 Grange . . .4 1 Bowder Stone . 5 1 Return to Grange 4J Portinscale . 1J Keswick 6 104 12 284 NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS. The circuit of Crow Park and back to Keswick is a means of surveying thl surrounding country, making a distance of If miles only. To attain the summit of Skiddaw and back to Keswick, 10 miles a guidj necessary. From KESWICK round BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 8 Peele Wyke (Inn) 1 Ouse Bridge . 1 Castle Inn 31 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 5 Keswick 13J 181 From KESWICK to the How. 1 Long Bridge, near Portin- scale, by the fields called How Ray . . .1 J The How . . . 1J J If the return is through Portinscale . . 2 1J Keswick . . . 3J AQUATIC EXCURSION ON DERWENT WATER. } Walk from Keswick by "Little Hills" to the " Strand," there take a boat . . . J Friar Crag . . : .1 1 Lords Island . . 11 1 Stable Hills . . . 1J 1 Broom Hill . . .If 1 Barrow Landing-Place . 2J | Floating Island . . 3J 1 Mouth of the River . 3J 11 St. Hubert's Island . 5 f Water End Bay (a little walking required) / . 5} 11 Derwent Isle . . 7 1 Strands Piers . . 71 J Keswick . . 7| ULVERSTON to BOWNESS by Newby Bridge. 3j Greenodd 3 Low-wood 2J Newby Bridge 7 Bowness ULVERSTON to HAWKSHEAD by Coniston "Water Head. 5J Lowick Bridge 2J Nibthwaite . 8 Coniston Water Head 3 Hawkshead . WALKS FROM CONISTON WATER HEAD, viz., To LEVERS WATER and LOWE WATER, 7 miles. 1 Black Bull (Inn) . 2J North side Levers Water 1 Lowe Water . . 2 Coniston Church 1 Water Head . NOTES FOR PEDESTRIANS. To YEWDALE and TILBERTHWAITE, 6 miles. 1J Yewdale Grove 1J Low Yewdale i Shepherd Bridge 285 Tilberthwaite . . 4J Junction with the Langdale road from Ainbleside . 6 To SEATHWAITE, 17 miles. 1 Coniston Church 24 Torver 7 Broughton . 1 34 104 1 Dnddon Bridge . . 114 34 Ulpha Kirk House . . 15~ 2 New Field, near the Chapel 17 1 Coniston Church 2 Runner from Goat Scar Or (6 miles) 1 Top of Walna Sear . 2 New Field, near the Chapel To AMBLESIDE, 8 miles. 3J Berwick Ground . . 34 | 44 Ambleside . . 8 To HAWKSHEAD, 3 miles. From HAWKSHEAD, by the Grove, and Esthwaite Hall, round Esthwaite "Water, 5 miles. If Esthwaite Water 4 The Grove . i Esthwaite Hall 1J Nearer Sawrey 2J Hawkshead From HAWKSHEAD to the FERRY, through Colthouse and High Wray, 6 miles. | Colthouse . . 3 1J Belham Tarn . . 2 4 High Wray . . .24 4 Ferry House, by Belle Grange . . .64 LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Kirkby Lonsdale, 30 miles, viz , lunstall . li 5 Caton . 2 Claughton 2 Hornby (Inn) . 2 JMelling 2 Burrow 2 Kirkby Lonsdale 13 Kendal INDEX, ABBEY, The, near Bowness, 23. Abbot Hall, Kirkland, 11. Abstract of Tours, xxv. Airey Bridge, 226. Airey Force, 152. Allan Bank, 41, 58. Ambleside, 38 ; Itin. 213, 215, 216, 218, 227. Angle Tarn, 156, 227. Angler's Inn, 207. Angling Craag, 207. Anne Boleyn, Portrait of, 15. Applethwaite, Keswick, 107 ; Win- dermere, 20. Arbeia, Roman Station, 220. Armboth House, 217. Arnboth Fells, 98. Arthur's Bound Table, 179, 228. Askham, 195. BAMPTON, 195. Bank Ground, 74. Bannerigg House, 215. Banstree, 18. Barnscar, 219. Barrow Cascade, 113, 221 ; Common, 112 ; House, 107, 113, 221. Bassenthwaite Lake, 108, 220. Beacon, The, 170. Beckermet, 210. Belle Vue, 41. Bellfleld, 23. Bell Grange, 23. Bell Isle, 31, 214. Bell Isle Villa, 23. Belsfield, 23. Benson Knot, 13, 228. Berkshire Island, 20, 214. Bilberry Crag, 227. Bingle, The, 23. Birker Force, 219. Birk Fell, 153. Birks, 96. Bisket How, 35. Blackbeck Stream, 94. Black Combe, 93 ; ascent from Bootle, etc., 94, 219. Blacklead Mine, Scalehill, 124 ; Sea- toller, 118. Black Sail Pass, 121, 138. Blea Tarn, 65 ; Water, 18. Blelham Tarn, 213. Blencathara, 143, 225 ; ascent of, 144. Blowick, 154. Blue Gill, 163. Boredale, 200. Borrowdale Haws, 118 ; ascent of, 118; Valley of, 116; Wad Mine, 118, 221 ; Yews, 116, 221. Botany of the Lake District, 272. Bout Village, 219. Bowder Stone, 114, 221. Bowfell, 66. Bowness, 21 ; Itin. 214. Bowness at Ennerdale, 208. Bowscale Tarn, 144. Braddyll Family, 82. Braithwaite, 112. Brant Fell, 36. Brantwood, 74, 213. Brathay Stream, 20 ; Bridge, 27, 213 ; Hall, 27, 41. Brementenracum, Roman Station, 183. Bretherdale Bank, 228. Bridal of Triermain, Scene of, 130. Bridge Field, 213. Bridges of the District, 224. Brigham, 220. Broadgate, 94. Brothers, The, Scene of Wordsworth's Poem, 207. Brothers Water, 156, 227. Brougham Castle, 172; Hall, 170, 183, 228. Broughton, 93. Brovoniacum, Roman Station, 172. Brownriggs Well, 159. Brow Top, 106. Brundholm Wood, 126. 288 INDEX. Burnbanks, 197. Burnmoar Tarn, 219. Burnside, 23. Butterlip How, 58, 97. Buttermere, 120, 221 ; Hawes, 123, 221 ; Lake, 222. CALDER ABBEY, 211, 219 ; Bridge, 211. Caledonian Forest, 181. Calgarth, 26 ; Park, 215. Canning's Visit to Storrs Hall, 35. Carleton Hall, 170, 228. Cartnell, 84. Castle Crag, 114, 221. Castle Head, 104, 221. Castle-how-hill, 12. Castle-rigg, 99, 107 Castle Rock, 99. Cat Bells, 104. Catchedecam, 160. Catherine Parr, Queen of Henry VIII., Birth-place of, 12. Catstycam, 160. Causey Pike, 127. Chapel Hill, 198. Char Fish, 30. Cherry Holm, 154. Clappersgate, 47 ; Village, 213. Cleator Iron Works, 206. Clifford Family, 174. Clifton Hall, 228 ; Village, 228. Clifton Moor, Battle of, 228. Coal Mines, Whitehaven, 203. Cockermouth, 125, 223. Cockerstream, 125. Cockley Beck Bridge, 95. Codale Crags, 157 ; Fell, 63. Coleridge 8. T., Lines on Dungeon Gill Force, 66 ; Description of the Vale of Keswick, 99 ; Lilies on the view from Saddleback, 146. Col with Force, 64, 218. Concangium, Roman Station, 13. Conishead Priory, 82. Coniston Bank, 74, 213; Hall, 78; Lake, 74, 213; Old Man, 74, 213; Ascent of, 76, 213, 214. Cooks House, 26. Cottage, The, 41. Countess's Pillar, 175. Cove, 95. Covey Cottage, 41. Cowley Mrs., Lines on Wotobank, 210. Crag Fell, 208. Craig Villa, 23. Crake River, 213. Crinkle Crags, 66. Croft Lodge, 27, 41, 213. Crossfell, 170. Crosthwaite Church, 100; Crosth- waite's Museum, 103. Crummock Water, 123, 222. Cunsay Stream, 28. Curwen's Isle, 20. DA ORE CASTLE, 150, 181, 225; River, 226. Dalegarth Hall, 219 ; Force, 219. . Dale Head, 127. Dalemain, 170; 225, 226. Dallam Tower, 11. Deepdale, 154, 227 ; Beck, 227. De Quincey, Quotation from, Relative to Wordsworth, 52 ; Description of Buttermere, 122. Derwent Bank, 107; Hill, 107; Isle, 107, 110; Lodge. 107. Derwentwater, 109. Devoke Water, 219. Dictis, Roman Station, 41. Distington, 220. Dockray Hall, 169. Dodd, 157. Donnerdale, 95. Dove's Nest, 26, 215. Dovenby Hall, 223. Dow Crag, 76. Druidical remains near Keswick, 108, 225 ; Long Meg and her Daughters, 180 ; Karl Lofts, 196, 228. Duddon Grove, 94; River, 94, 218; Valley, 74. Dungeon Gill Force, 66. Dunmail Raise, 97, 217. DunmaUet, 150, 226. EAGLE CRAG, 116, 217. Eamont Bridge, 228; River, 167, 22a Easdale Glen, 62. Eden Hall, 170, 185 ; River, 167. Egremont, 219. Eheii River, 207. Elleray, 23, 37, 215. Elterwater Gunpowder Company's works, 67; Elterwater Hall, 67; Tarn, 67. Eminent literary men connected with the Lake District, 4. Ennerdale Bridge, 123 ; Lake, 206. Eskdale, 96, 218. Eskhause, 135. Esthwaite Lake, 71, 214. Eusemere Villa, 148. Extent of the Lake District, 1. FAIRPIELD, 43, 216. Falcon Crag, 112. INDEX. 289 Pell Foot, 218. Ferny Green, 23. Ferry Hotel and Inn, 28. Fieldside, 107. Fir Island, 74. Fish Char, 30 ; in Derwentwater, 112 ; Hawes Water, 198; Windermere, 20. Fisher's Crag, 98. Fleming Family, 49. Flintoft's Model of the Lake District, 103. Floating Island, Derwentwater, 111 ; Esthwaite, 72. Floutern Tarn, 123; 208. Fordendale Brook, 197. Forest Hall, 228; Forest Side, 41. Foulsyke, 125. Fox, George, Meeting-house, 82. Fox Ghyll, 40. Fox Howe, 40. Friar Crag, 104. Frossick, 46. Fumess Abbey, 85. Fusedale Beck, 226. GABLE, GREAT, 133, 209. Galeforth Spout, 17. Gatescarth, Buttermere, 120 ; Longs- leddale, 17. Gateswater, 78. Geology of the Lake District, 229. Giant of Troutbeck, 46 ; Giants' Caves, 179 ; Grave, 169 ; Thumb, 170. Gilgarron, 220. Gillerthwaite Farm House, 209. GUI Foot, 204. Glaramara, 118. Gleaston Castle, 93. Glencoin Beck, 153, 227 ; House, 227. Glenderamakin Stream, 225. Glenderaterra, 146. Glenridding Beck, 227 ; House, 153, 227. Glen Rothay, 41, 56, 216. Glossary of Local Names, xi. Goldrill Crag, 96. Gold Scalp, 127. Gosforth Village, 219. Gough, Charles, death of, 160. Gowbarrow Park, 160, 226. Gowder Crag, 113. Graithwaite, 28. Grange, The, 23; Bridge, 114; Vil- lage, 221. Grasmere, 56, 216. Grasmoor, 124. Grass Holm, 20. Gray, The Poet. Description of Gras- mere, 58; ViewfromCastlerigg,107. Great Dodd, 129. Great End, 134. Great Gable, 209. Great How, 129. Great Langdale, 66. Green Bank, 41, 216. Greta, The, 128 ; Bank, 106, 225 ; Bank Bridge, 225. Greta Hall, 104. 107. Grey Crag, 157. Grey Friars, 96. Greystock Castle, 170, 193, 225. Grisedale Glen and Tarn, 63, 156, 227 ; Pike, 220, 221 ; Beck, 227. Gummers How, 214. Gunnerskeld Bottom, 197. HACKTHORPE, 228 ; Hall, 228. Hall Fell, 145. Hallin FeU, 147, 226. Halsteads, 147, 170, 226. Hanging Knot, 135. Hard Knot, 96. Harrington, 220. Harrison Stickle, 66 ; ascent of, 68. Harrop Tarn, 159. Barter Fell, 18, 199. Hart's Horn Tree, 177. Hartsope Village, 227. Hasness, 120. Hawcoat, 92. Hawes Water, 18, 195. Hawkshead, 71, 214. Hawl GUI, 134. Hayes Castle, 220 ; Water, 156, 227. Hay Stacks, 120. Heaves Lodge, 11. Helm Crag, 61. Helm Lodge, 11. Helton, 195. Helvellyn, 158 : ascent from Grise- dale Tarn, 157; from Thirlemere, 99. Romans' (Mrs.) residence at Dove's Nest, 26 ; Lines on Elleray, 37 ; on the Countess's Pillar, 177 ; Son- net on Grasmere, 59 ; Description of Rydal Mount, 51. Hen Holm, 20, 32. Hensingham House, 204 ; Village, 206. Herdhouse Hill, 208. High Borrow Bridge, 228. High Crag, 120. High Hartsope, 227. High Skelgill, 42. High StUe, 120. High Street, 162 ; ascent of, 163. U 290 INDEX. High Wray Village, 28. Hill Bell. 46. Hill Top, 11, 41. Hindscarth, 127. Holker Hall, 84. Hollies, The, 106. Hollow, 128. Holm Cottage, 95. Holm Family, 198. Holy Hill, 23. Holy Trinity Church, Kendal, 9 ; Ulverston, 81. Holywell, 84. Honister Crag, 120. Hotels, Trim. House Holm, 20, 147, 154, 227. Howe, The, 45. How Grain Stream, 226. How Town, 200. How Town Wyke, 226. Hugh Hird, the Troutbeck Giant, 46. Hugh's Cave, 199. Button Hall, 170. IBBOTSHOLMB, 23. Inglewood Forest, 167. Ings Chapel, 215. Isel Hall, 223. Isis Partis, 179. Itinerary, 213. Ivy Crag, 42. JAWS of Borrowdale, 104. Jewsbury, Miss, Description of Rydal Mount, 54. Jones, Paul, Descent on Whitehaven, 202. KARL LOFTS, 196, 228. Kaystone, 157. Keats, Quotations from, 22, 143, 176. Keekle Grove, 204. Kendal, 7 ; Itin. 214, 215, 228 ; Castle, 11. Kentmere Valley, 215. Kent Biver, 8. Keppel Cove Tarn, 167. Keskadale, 127. Keswick, 99 ; Itin. 217, 220, 221, 224, 225. Keswick Lake, 108. Kidsty Pike, 18, 157. King Arthur's Round Table, 179, 228. Kirkfell, 133. Kirkstone Pass, 46, 156, 227. Knab, The, 216. Knoll, The, 41. Knott Crag, 144. Knottg, The, 122. Knotts Island, 74. LADE POT, 200. Lad-House, 123. Lady Holm, 20, 33. Lady's Rake, 112. Laithwaite, 107. Lake District, Model of the, 103. Lakes, Synoptical View of, 273. Lakes Bassenthwaite Water, 126, 220. Brothers Water, 156, 227. Buttermere, 222. Coniston, 74, 213. Crummock Water, 123, 222. Derwentwater, 108. Ennerdale, 206. Esthwaite, 71, 214. Grasmere, 56, 216. Hawes Water, 195. Lowes Water, 125, 222. Red Tarn, 160. Rydal Mere, 54. Sprinkling Tarn, 135. Thirlemere, 97. Ulleswater, 147, 226. Wastwater, 133. Windermere, 18. Lamb, Charles, Quotation from, on Skiddaw, 143. Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, 1 1 Lancaster and Preston Canal, 11. Langdale Pikes, 66 ; ascent of, 68. Lanthwaite Wood, 124. Lathel, 198. Latrigg, 107, 225. Latterbarrow, 219. 224. Leathes Water, 99. Legberthwaite, Vale of, 98. Lesketh Howe, 41. Levens Hall, 11, 13. Leven Stream, 28. Levers Water, 76. Lilefell, 146. Linethwaite, 204 ; Fell, 145. Ling Holm, 20. LingmeU, 134. Lingmoor, 65. Linking Dale Head, 153. Little Langdale Tarn, 65. Lizza Stream, 207. Llandaff, Bishop of, 22. Local Appellatives, xi. Lockhart's Life of Scott ; Sir Walter's Visit to Storr Hall, 35. Long Meg and her Daughters, 180. Longsleddale, 17. Long Stile, 18. Lonscale Fell, 97. INDEX. 291 Lords Island, 110, 221 ; Seat, 120. Lorton Vale, 124. Loughrigg Fell, 43, 213 ; Tarn, 67. Low Bridge House, 11, 228. I/odore Waterfall, 113. Lowes Water, 125, 222. Low Fell, 125. Low Fold, 42. Low Hartsope, 163. Lowick Bridge, 213. Low Skelgill, 43. Lowther Castle, 170, 186 ; Vale, 199 ; Bridge, 228. Low Water, 76, 177. Low Wood Hotel, 26, 157 ; Crags, 113. Lyulph's Tower, 150, 226. Lyzziek Hall, 107. MAIDEN MOOR, 1 27. Man Mountain, 74. Mardale Chapel, 198 ; Green, 18, 199. Martindale, 156, 290. Maryport and Carlisle Railway, 204. Mary Queen of Scots, portrait of, 16. Mary, the Beauty of Butterrnere, 122. Mason's description of Eydal Water- fall, 49. Mayborongh, 179, 228. Measand Becks, 197. Melbreak, 123. Mell Fell, 225. Mellguards, 200. Mickleden, 66. Mickledore Chasm, 135. Middle Holm, 154. Millbeck, 66. Mint House, 228 ; Bridge, 228. Mirehouse, 106. Model of the Lake District, 103. Moresby, 220 ; Hall, 220 ; Mall, 204. Mortal Man Inn, 45. Mosergh House, 11. Moss Holm, 154. Mountains, Synoptical View of, 272. Muncaster Castle, 219. Musgrave Family, 186. NAB SCAB, 54, 216. Naddle Fell and Valley, 99. Naddle Fell, 129. Naddle Forest, 197. Nag's Head Inn, 97. Names of Places, Chapter on, nti. Nan Bield, Pass of, 199. Nathdale, 129. Natural Hist. Society, Kendal, 10. Nether Wastdale, 134, 211, 224. Nettlesback Bridge, 95. Newliy Bridge, 28. New Church, 226. Newfield, 95. Newlands, Vale of, 127. Nibthwaite, 213. OAK BANK, 41, 125. Oakfield, 106. Oaklanda, 23. Old Man, Coniston, 74, 76. Ormathwaite, 107. Orrest Head, 23, 215. Oxen Fell, 214. PAINTINGS, Conishead Priory, 83 ; Greystock Castle, 194 ; Holker Hall, 84 ; Lowther Castle, 187. Parr, Catherine, Birthplace of, 12. Pap Castle, 223. Parton, 220. Patterdale, 154, 227 ; Chapel, 227 ; Hall, 227. Passes, Notes on, xxviii Pavey Ark, 68. Pedestrians, Hints to, 5. Peel Castle, 93. Peel Island, 74. Peel Wyke, 220. Pelter Bridge, 47. Pen, The, 94. Penny Bridge, 213. Penrith, 166, 225, 226 ; Castle, 168 ; Church, 169. Penruddock Village, 225. Petreia, Roman Station, 183. Petterill River, 167. Pike o' Stickle, 66 ; ascent of, 68. Pile of Fouldry, 93. Pillar, The, 209. Place Fell, 227 ; Quarry, 154. Plumbago Mine, 118. Ponsonby Hall, 211, 219. Pope's lines on the Duke of Whar- ton, 197. Pooley Bridge, 148, 226. Portinscale, 107. Priestman, 146. Priory, The, near Bowness, 23. Prospect, 220. Pull Wyke, 213 ; Bay, 28. QUAKERS, their first place of worship, 82. Quarry How, 23. RADCLIFFE (Mrs.) on Furness Abbey, 88 ; on Longsleddale, 17 ; on Ulles- water, 153 ; on Windermere, 34. Rainsborrow Crag, 164. Rampsholm, 111. INDEX. Ramspeck Lodge, 150, 226. Rannerdale Knott, 124, 222. Ratcliffe Family, 102. Raven Crag, 98. Ravenglass, 219. Raw Head, 11. Ray Rigg, 23 ; House, 24 ; Woods of, 24. Red Bank, 59. Red Hills, 225. Red Pike, 120. Red Screes, 158. Red Tarn, 160. Revelin, 208. Riddings, The, 225. Riggendale, Straits of, 18. Robinson Force, 127 ; Mountain, 127. Roman remains, Dunmallet, 226. Roman Station near Kendal, 13 ; Ambleside, 41 ; Windermere, 41 ; Penrith, 183. Ron.ney the Painter, 84. Rose Hill, 220. Roseneath, 221. Rosthwaite, 116. Rothay Bank, 40 ; Bridge, 213 ; Stream, 20. Rough Holm, 20. Round Knott, 42. Rushbearing at Ambleside, 40. Rydal, 49 ; Hall, 49, 216 ; Falls, 49 ; Lake, 54 ; Mount, 50, 216. SADDLEBACK, 143, 225 ; ascent of, 144. Sadgill Bridge Cascade, 17. St. Andrew's Church, Penrith, 169. St. Bees, 204. St. Catherine's, 23, 215. St. Herbert's Isle, 110. St. James* Church, Whitehaven, 202. St. John's Beck, 99, 129. St. John's Parsonage, 107. St. John, Vale of, 127. St. Kentigern, Church of, 100. St. Martin's Church, Bowness, 21. St. Mary's Church, Ambleside, 38. St. Mary's Church, Ulverstone, 80. St. Michael's Church, Hawkshead, 71, 214. St. Nicholas Church, Whitehaven, 202. St. Sunday's Crag, 156, 227. Sandwyke, 226. Sandys, Archbishop of York, 71. Sawrey Village, 214. Scale Force, 123, 222 ; Hill, 124. Scarf Gap, 138, 209. ScawfeU, 134; Pike, 134. Scilly Bank, 220. Scott, Sir Walter, Scene of the Bridal of Triermain, 130. Scott, Sir Walter, Quotation from Rokeby, 33 ; on Beacon Fires, 171 ; on King Arthur's Round Table, 179; on the Dacres, 182; on Threlkeld Tarn, 121. Scots Rake, 164. Scout Scar, 13. Screes, 134 Seathwaite Fell, 95, 218; Vale, 94. Seatollar, 118. Sedgwick House, 11. Snap, 195, 228; Abbey, 195; Fells, 228 ; Spa, 228. Shaw End, 11. Shepherd's Crag, 113. Shoulthwaite Moss, 217. Silver Holm, 20. Silver How, 59. Sizergh Castle, 11 ; Hall, 15. Skelly Neb, 147. Skelwith Bndge, 64. Skiddaw, ascent from Keswick, 139 ; Bank, 107; Forest, 140; Lodge, 107; Skiddaw's Cub, 107. Skirsgill, 225, 226 ; House, 170. Slate Quarries, 67, 120, 154. Small Water, 198. Smeathwaite Bridge, 99. Society of Friends, first meeting- house, 82. Sour Milk Gill, 63, 120. Southey, Dr., Residence of, 104; Burial-place, 100. Southey on the want of Traditions in the Lake District, 3; Description of the view from Greta House, 106 ; Lowther Castle, 190. Spring Field, 204. Sprinkling Tam, 135. Sprint River, 17. Stable Hills, 113. Stainton Village, 225. Stair, 127. Stake Pass, 67, 116. Stanley Gill, 219. Station, Windermere, 34. Staveley Village, 215. Steel Fell, 97. Stickle Tam, 67. Stock Gill, 41. Stonethwaite, 116. Storrs Hall, 23, 35, 214. Strands Inn, 134, 211. Striding Edge, 156, 160. Stybarrow Crag, 227. INDEX. 293 Sty Head Pass, 132 ; Tarn, 224. Summer Grove, 204. Swarth Fell, 226. Swart Moor and Hall, 82. Swirrel Edge, 160. TALLENTIRE HALL, 223. Tarn Crag, 158. Tent Lodge, 74, 213. Thirlmere, 97. Thirlspot Vale, 129. Thompson's Holm, 20. Thorathwaite Crag, 46, 164. Thrang Slate Quarry, 67. Three Brothers, The, 179. Threlkeld Hall, 128, 225 ; Tarn, 144 ; Village, 225. Thresthwaite Mouth, 69. Thrimby, 228. Thurston Water, 74, 213. Tilberthwaite, 214. Tirrel, 195. Tolson Hall, 215. Torver, 75. Tours, Abstract of, xxv. Tranby Lodge, 41. Trinity Church, Whitehaven, 202. Troutbeck, 43 ; Tongue, 46. ULPHA KIRK, 95. Ullswater, 147, '226. Ulverston, 80, 213 ; Iron mines, 84. Underbarrow Scarr, 13. VALE OF NEWLANDS, 127 ; St. John, 127. Vale of Penrith, 225. Vicarage, Keswick, 107. Vicar's Isle, 110. WALLABARROW CRAG, 95. Wallow Crag, Hawes Water, 198; Keswick, 112. Walna Scar, 95. Wanless How, 41. Wansfell Holm, 27, 41. 213, 215 ; Pike, 69 213 Wastdale Head, 133 ; Ditto (in Westmorland), 228. Wastwater, 133, 204, 224. Watendlath, 221 ; Glen, 98 ; Lake, 116. Watercrook, 13. Water End, 106. Waterfoot, 150. Waterhead, 27 ; House, 74, 213, 214. Watermillock, 150, 226. U Water Park, 74, 213. Waterside, 27, 215. Watson, Bishop, Birthplace, 22 ; Burial-place, 22. Weatherlamb, 65. Wetherlam, 213. Whelter Botton and Crag, 198. WhinfeU Beacon, 228 ; Forest, 177. Whinlater, 126. Whitehall Buildings, Kendal, 10. Whitehaven, 201 ; Castle, 204. Whiteless Pike, 127. White Moss Quarry, 56. Whiteside, 124. Wilberforce, William, residence at Rayrigg, 24. Wilson, Professor, residence at Elleray, 37. Wilson, Professor, on Loughrigg Tarn, 42 ; on the Scenery of Rydal Park, 49 ; on Sir Walter Scott's Visit to Storr Hall, 36 ; on Trout- beck, 44 ; on the View of Winder- mere, 44 ; on the Station, Winder- mere, 34. Windermere, 18. Wishing Gate, 59. Woodhall, 223. Wood Villa, 23. Wordsworth's Birthplace, 223 ; Resi- dence, 51 ; Residence at Grasmere, 56 ; Memorial in Ambleside Church, 38 ; Place of Interment, 58. Wordsworth, Quotations from Blea Tarn, 65; Bowder Stone, 114; Bowness Church, 22 ; Dungeon Gill, 66; River Greta, 128; Brougham Castle, 146 ; Helm Crag, 62 ; Lady le Fleming, 50 ; Long Meg and her daughters, 180; The Pillar, 209; River Eden, 167 ; Rydal Waterfall, 60 ; St. Bees, 205 ; Skiddaw, 143 ; Threlkeld Hall, 129; The Wishing Gate, 60 ; Yew Trees at Borrow- dale, 116 ; The Somnambulist, 152 ; Workington, 220. Wotobank House, 210 ; Tradition of. 210. Woundale, 46. Wray Castle, 23, 26, 41. Wrynose, 96. Wytheburn, 97. YANWATH, 195 ; Hall, 225. Yawnwath 148. Yew Crag, 221. Yew Trees, 126 ; Borrowdale, 11.1 Yoke, The, 46. 2 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. o DO. x Impression. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. (Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.} THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS IONA, CHEVALIER, GONDOLIER, STAFFA, MOUNTAINEER, PIONEER, EDINBURGH, MARY JANE, CLANSMAN, CLYDESDALE, CYGNET, PLOVER, INVERARAY CASTLE Sail during the season for Oban, Fort- William, Inverness, Staffa, lona, Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver, and Storno- way ; affording Tourists an opportunity of Visiting ,the magnificent Scenery of Glencoe, the Coolin . Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed islands of Staffa and lona. *<* These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with all its Watering-Places the Island and Kyles of Bute Island of Arran Moun- tains of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre Lochfyne Crinan with the Islands of Jura, iScarba, Mull, and many others of the Western Sea the Whirlpool of Corryvrechan the Mountains of Lorn, of Moiven, of Appin, of Kingairloeh, and Ben Nevis Invi- loehy the Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the Clans raised his Standard in the '45 Lochaber the Caledonian Canal Loch Lochy Loch Oich Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. Books descriptive of the route may be had on board the Steamers. Time-Bills, with Maps, sent post free on application to the Proprietors, DAVID HUTCHISON and Co., lie Hope Street, Glasgow. GLASGOW, 1866. BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. WEST HIGHLAND COACHES. OBAN, GLASGOW, AND EDINBURGH. Via Pass of Melfort, Ardrishaig, and Helensburgh. ACOACH'will leave OBAN every lawful day at 8-0 a.m. , arriving in Ardrishaig in time for the New Saloon Steamers, MEG MERRILLEES OR DANDIE DINMONT, to- Helensburgh, and per Train arriving in Glasgow at 7-45 p.m. and Edinburgh at 9-30 p.m. A Train will leave Edinburgh at 6-15 a.m., Glasgow (Queen St. Station) at 7-35, for Helensburgh ; thence per Steamer for Ardrishaig, and Coach to Oban, arriving at 630 p.m. THROUGH FARES FROM OBAN. TO Single. D.fee. Return D.fee. TO Single. D. fee. Return.D.fee. Ardrishaig, ....10/ I/ 17/ 2/ Glasgow 12/6 I/ 18/6 2/ Helensburgh, ..12/ I/ 18/ 2/ Edinburgh.. . .18/6 I/ 28/6 2/ Oban, Glasgow, and Edinburgh, via Loch-Awe,, Ardrishaig, and Helensburgh. COACHES will leave OBAN every lawful morning at 6-30 a.m., for BRANDER, thence per Steamer " QUEEN OF THE LAKE" to Ford ; Coach from Ford to Ardrishaig ; new Saloon Steamers, MEG MERRILLEES OR DANDIE DINMONT. from Ardrishaig toBelensburgh ; thence per special Express Train, arriving in Glasgow at 7-50 p.m., Edinburgh at 9-30 p.m. A Train will leave Edinburgh at 6-15 a.m. ; Glasgow Queen St. Station) at 7-35, for HeJensburgh^ thence per Steamer to Ardrishaig, Coach to Ford (Loch-Awe), Steamer to Brander, and Coach to'Oban, arriving about 8 p.m. FARES Oban to Ardrishaig, 12/6; Oban to Helensburgh, 1st class, 14/ ; Obanjto Glasgow, 1st class, 14/6; Edinburgh, 1st class, 20/6. Fees extra. Oban, Glasgow, and Edinburgh, via Inveraray and Tarbet, A COACH leaves OBAN Every Lawful Day for TAYNUILT, BRANDER, LOCH-AWE, INVERARAY, CAIRNDOW, ARROGHAR, and TARBET (Loch-Lomond). A.COACH leaves TARBET Every Lawful Day for INVERARAY, OBAN, &c. FARES Oban to Inveraray, 10/ and 12/ ; Oban to Tarbet, 18/6 and 21/6. Driver's fee and Guard's fee extra. Train leaves Edinburgh 6 15 A.M. Coach leaves Oban 6 30 A.M. ., leaves Glasgow . 7 35 ar es Brander 8 35 arrives Balloch . 8 35 Steamer lea s Brander . S 35 Steamer leaves Balloch . 9 n arr es Portsannacha n 9 35 arrives Tarbet . 10 20 Coach lea ea Portsonnachan 9 35 Ooach leaves Tarbet . 10 30 M arr es Inveraray 11 45 arrives Inverarar 2 P.M. lea 3 Tnveraray 12 45 P.M. leaves Inveraray 3 31 ,, ar es Tarbet . 4 15 arrives Portsonnaclifl n 5 10 Steamer lea a Tarbet . 5 5 Steamer leaves Portsonnachai 5 20 arr es Balloch 6 35 arrives Brander . 6 10 Train lea a Ballouh . 6 3S Coach leaver Brander . 6 20 .1 ar es Glasgow 7 4S arrives Oban 8 25 es Edinburgh 9 30 ' BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. Inveraray and Oban, via Loch-Awe and Pass of Melfort. A well-appointed COACH leaves INVERARAY Every Lawful Day for PORTSON- NACHAN, where Passengers join the Steamer " QUEEN OF THE LAKE," sailing thence through same of the most varied and magnificent views in the West Highlands to Ford, where a Coach awaits their arrival ; proceeding thence, via, Pass of Melfort (which for grandeur is unsurpassed out of Switzerland) and Loch Feochan, to OBAN. A COACH leaves OBAN Every Lawful Day for Pass of Melfort and Ford, thence per Steamer to Cladich, and Coach to Inveraray. FAKE Inverar.ay to Oban, 14/6. Fees extra. Coach leaves Inveraray 7 45 A.M. Coach leaves Oban .... arrives Kilmartin "AM Steam Coach r leaves Purtsonnachan arrives Ford leaves Ford 935 12 OP.M. 1210 Steam leaves Kilmartlu arrives Ford r leaves Ford 2 235 245 leaves Kilm.irtiu arrives Oban . . 2 630 Coach leaves I'ortsoimaclian arrives Inveraray 520 715 DAILY PLEASURE EXCURSION TOUR. COACHES will leave Oban Every Lawful Day for Loch-Awe, via Pass of Awe, to Bran- der, where the Steamer "QUEEN OF THE LAKE," awaits their arrival; sailing thence through some of the most varied and magnificent views in the West Highlands to Ford, where the Coach awaits their arrival ; proceeding, via Carnassarie and Craignish Castles, Pass of Melfoit, and Loch Feochan, to Oban. This route can be reversed, proceeding by Coach to Ford, thence per Steamer to Brander, and in by Pass of Awe. Parties per 7.45 a.m. Coach from Inveraray to Cladich can sail down the Loch to Ford, and return to Inveraray same evening. FARE Inveraray to Ford and back, ll/. FARES For the Journey from Oban to Oban, 17/ and 19/. Via PASS OF AWE. Coach leaves Oban - arrives Brander Stenmer leaves Brander . ,. arrives Ford Coach leaves Ford arrives Kilmartin . leaves Kilmartin . arrives Obrin 6 30 A.M- 635 845 Via PASS OF MELFORT. Coach leaves Oban . M arrives Kihnartii leaves Kilmartin m arrives Ford Steamer leaves Ford arrives Brander Coach leaves Brander arrives Oban . gST Through Excursion Tickets will be Issued for all these Routes. For details, see North British Railway Co.'s Rills. Detailed and descriptive particulars of all the routes given in the Time-Bills of the West Highland Coaches(with engraved map, 22 by 17), price Id. To be had (wholesale from Mr. James Reid, 144 Argvle Street, Glasgow) at the North British Railway Stations, and Hotels in the principal Cities in the Kingdom, and from the various Booking Offices. Seats secured, and all necessary information given, at the North British Railway Booking Offices Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Helensburgh ; Offices of James Walker, Cambridge Street ; Andrew Menzies, Argyle Street, Glasgow ; A. M'Pherson, Tarbet Hotel ; D. M'Pherson, Argyll Arms Hotel, Inveraray ; James Murray, Taynuilt Hotel;; Donald Campbell, Great Western Hotel ; or here to BUCHANAN & DICK, Oban. BY ORDER. K3T Transmission of Game Boxes carefully attended to. T>UCHANAN & DICK beg respectfully to intimate that in addition to their Coaching 1 ) arrangements, they are now prepared to supply CARRIAGES, WAGGONETTES, DOGCARTS, etc., on the shortest notice. Orders to be left at the Great Western Hotel, the King's Arms Hotel, the Craigard Hotel, the Queen's Hotel, or GENERAL COACH OFFICE. OBAN, June 1866. George Street. BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. ABERDEEN. ROYAL HOTEL. PATRONISED BY HER MAJESTY. T\ ROBERTSON, Postmaster to Her Majesty and the Royal Family. U The only Hotel in Aberdeen ever honoured with a visit from any of the Royal Family. D. R. would call attention to the fact, that, while everything furnished for the table is of the very best description, his scale of charges is as moderate as those of minor establishments. The " Royal " is only a few hundred yards from the Railway Station, is in the best street in the city, and sufficiently removed from the nuisance so much complained of in the immediate neighbourhood of the Railway Station. The Commercial Room is strictly kept for the use of Commercial Gentlemen, and there is an abundant supply of stock-room accommodation. All Servants' Fees charged in the bill. Any cause for complaint will be instantly attended to, if represented to Mr. Robertson. Mr. R.'s success in catering for parties wanting Shooting and Fishing quarters has induced him to devote great attention to this department of his business, and from the facilities he has, he is enabled to give genuine in- formation about every Shooting or Fishing in the county. An elegant Coffee-Room for the accommodation of Ladies and Gentlemen wishing to avoid the expense of a private room. Table d'Hdte during the season. A first-rate man Cook ; French, German, and English Waiters. Visitors in employing cabs should inquire for those belonging to this establishment. No posting attached to any other Hotel in Aberdeen. ROYAL HOTEL, ABERDEEN, May 1866. HOTELS AYR BLAIR ETC. - r > AYRSHIRE. LAND OF POET BURNS. KING'S ARMS HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT, AYR. A LEXANDER G. M. DOUGLAS, lute of the Establishment of the Lord- Xi Lieutenant of Ireland, House-Steward of the Sackville Street Club, Duhlin, and New Cltih, Princes Street, Edinburgh, begs most respectfully to announce that he has become Lessee of the above first-class Hotel, which affords every comfort and accommodation to the many Visitors sojourning arid Tourists daily visiting this most interesting locality Burns' Cottage, Alloway Kirk, Brig of Doon, &c. &c. BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, DINNERS. Cabs and other Conveyances await arrival of all Trains. Carriages, Phaetons, Dogcarts, Sociables, &c. Orders by Telegraph punctually attended to. BLAIR-ATHOLE, PERTHSHIRE. THE ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL, AT THE RAILWAY STATION; AND BRIDGE OF TILT PRIVATE HOTEL. MALCOLM MTARLANE. BALLACHULISH LOCHLEVEN HOTEL. J. CAMERON. fTIHIS Hotel is delightfully situated on the banks ofLochleven, nearGlen- JL coe, and commands the best view of the finest mountain scenery in Scotland. The entrance to the Glen is beautifully seen from the windows. The Hotel has been much enlarged and modernised. The bedrooms are airy and commodious, and fitted up in the newest style ; and Tourists may rely on finding superior accommodation at moderate charges. Posting carried on in all its departments, and boats always ready for visiting the romantic reaches of the adjoining lochs. A new road has been opened up to the head ofLoch- leven, which is one of the finest drives in this part of the Highlands, afford- ing an excellent view of the Serpent river and the beautiful cascade at the head of the Loch. Parties stopping at this Hotel may get themseJves booked /or Glasgow by coach over the Black Mount daily, at half-past eight A.M., during the tourist season, while steamers call daily at the new pier BALLACHULISH. BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. CALLANDER. DREADNOUGHT HOTEL D. M'GOWAN, PROPRIETOR. "OARTIES frequenting this large and old-established Hotel, which was so long con- 1 ducted by the late Mr. Macgregor, and which has recently undergone many and extensive improvements, will find every comfort and attention, and charges strictly moderate. The well-known Coaches in connection with the Hotel run to and from the TROB- SACHS, LOCH KATRINE, LOCHEARNHEAD, KILLIN, KENMORE, ABERFELDY, etc. A Table d'Hote daily at 3 p.m. Posting in all' its departments complete. Carriages wait the Arrival and Departure of all Trains. Letters carefully attended to. CALLANDER. MACGREGOR'S HOTEL. ALEXR. FORBES, PROPRIETOR, BEGS to inform Tourists and Families visiting Callander, that lie lias taken a lease of this well-known Hotel, and has been at the expense of refurnishing it in the newest style. Parties will please to observe that MacGregor's Hotel has no connec- tion with D. M'Gowan's Dreadnought Hotel. A. FORBES. DUNDEE. DUNDEE ARMS HOTEL. 7 CRICHTON STREET. T ARGE and well-furnished Commercial Room, Private -*-* Sitting-Rooms, comfortable and well-aired Bed-Rooms. Charges strictly moderate. ANGUS B. MATTHEWS, Proprietor. PERTH. SALUTATION HOTEL (Carmichael's). TOURISTS and Visitors to the Fair City will find every comfort and attention at this old-established Hotel. The liberal encouragement received has induced the Pro- prietor further to improve the Hotel, and to add a superior Billiard-Room, with a first- elass Table. While grateful for past favours, it will be his constant endeavour to keep up the good name of the " Salutation," and to make it a first-class house in every par- ticular, &c. For Ladius a large well-appointed Coffee-room is provided, and special advantages in accommodation for Commercial Gentlemen. Posting and Hiring in all its departments. SST An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all Trains. SALUTATION HOTEL, PERTH. PETER CARMICHAEL, Proprietor. HOTELS EDINBURGH. THE ROYAL HOTEL (MACGREGOR'S, LATE GIBE'S), 53 PRINCES STREET. Established upicards of Fifty Years. Opposite the Scott Monument, and commanding the best views of the Gardens, Castle, Arthur Seat, etc. DONALD MACGREGOR begs respectfully to acquaint the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, that, having taken a 25 years' lease of the above first-class Hotel, he has further extended, remodelled, and decorated it, rendering it now one of the largest in Scotland. The Royal Hotel is unsurpassed for extent of accommodation and elegant furnishings, and has a suite of superb Drawing and Dining Rooms for Ladies. Visit- ors may depend at all times on receiving comfortable and superior accommodation, combined with moderate charges. TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. N.B. To prevent mistakes, parties who intend visiting the Royal Hotel are cautioned to be careful that Cabmen and Porters do not take them elsewhere, as it has caused many parties great annoyance. The Royal Hotel is the nearest first- class Hotel to the Railway Stations. A night Porter in attendance. BLACKS GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER EDINBURGH. THOMAS SLANEY, PROPRIETOR. HPHIS HOTEL has long enjoyed the reputation of being one of the best J_ in the Kingdom, and has been patronised by the Royal Families of England and the Continent, and the Nobility and Gentry of Europe. Be- sides a Coffee-Room, Smoking-Room, Baths and other accommodations, a Splendid Saloon, with upwards of twenty Bed-Rooms, has recently been added, and are set apart for the accommodation of those Ladies and Gentle- men honouring the Hotel who wish to avoid the expense of a Private Sitting- Room. The Great Saloon is the finest room in any Hotel in the Kingdom, and is capable of dining upwards of 300 persons. Families occupying Private Apartments in the Hotel have the option of dining in the Public Room. Each department is kept so distinct that all may enjoy the quietude of a private house with the independence of an Hotel. PUBLIC ROOM FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. Table d'Hote and Dinners & la Carte. The Scale of Charges on application. Attendance Charged in the Bill. PRIZE MEDAL 1862. " Mr. Marshall's productions are not surpassed in interest and beauty by those of Castellani himself." Correspondent of the Scotsm "n on the Internationa! Exhibition. HOTELS EDINBURGH. EDINBURGH. WATERLOO HOTEL, RAMPLING S WATERLOO HOTEL, WATERLOO PLACE. Opposite the General Post- Office. COMMODIOUS AND ELEGANT COFFEE-ROOMS. LARGE AND WELL-VENTILATED SMOKING-ROOMS. Suites of Apartments, &c. STRANGERS and others visiting Edinburgh will find that, for Situation, Comfort, and Accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges, this Elegant and Extensive Establishment (which was built expressly for an Hotel at an expense of upwards of 30,000) is unequalled in the City. The WINES and CUISINE are of the first quality. A Spacious Saloon for Families who wish to avoid the expense of Private Sitting-rooms. A moderate Fixed Charge for Servants. 10 BLACK H GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. V I -^ EDINBU RGH. PHILP'S COCKBURN HOTEL, Immediately adjoining the Terminus of the Great Northern Trains. T1HIS commodious and well-appointed Hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking Princes Street Gardens, and commanding some of the finest views in the city. A large elegantly-furnished Saloon for parties with Ladies, free of charge ; private suites of Apartments, Bath- Rooms, Coffee and Smoking Rooms, and every accommodation for Gentlemen. Charges, including Attendance, Strictly Moderate. A. PHILP (late of the Albion), Proprietor. P.S. Mr. COOK (of Leicester) makes this house his head-quarters when in Scotland, where every information may be obtained of his tourist arrangements. Tourist and Excursion Office next door. HOTELS, ETC. EDINBURGH. 11 DARLING'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 20 WATERLOO PLACE, Nearly Opposite the General Post-Office, Situated in the Principal Street of the City, in the immediate vici- nity of the Calton Hill and Public Buildings. Large comfortable Coffee-Room for parties with Ladies, free of charge. Also, Private Parlours, commanding a fine view of Salisbury Crags and the Top of Arthur Seat. THE ONLY FIRM IN SCOTLAND to whom PRIZE MEDALS were awarded at either of the INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS of 1862 or of 1865, for CABINET FURNITURE. EICHAED WHYTOCK & GO. By Royal Appointment, CARPET-MANUFACTURERS TO HER MAJESTY, CABINETMAKERS AND UPHOLSTERERS, DECORATORS, CARVERS AND GILDERS, Importers of Foreign Carpetings, Fancy Cabinet Work, and FURNITURE STUFFS. House and Property Agents and Funeral Conductors. 9 AND 11 GEORGE STREET, AND ROSE COURT, EDINBURGH. SPECIAL DESIGNS accurately prepared to suit every Style of ARCHITECTURE AND INTERIOR DECORATION. Orders carefully executed in any part of the Country. New Edition of Black's Cheap Guide to the Lakes. Just Published, Price One Shilling, WITH MAP AND SEVERAL SMALLER CHARTS. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. 1 2 BLAOK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. M E LROS E. GEOKGE HOTEL. MENZIES begs to call the attention of Strangers visiting Melrose to the comforts of this Establishment, being the only Hotel in Melrose patronised by the Royal Family and the Empress of the French, etc. etc. As advertisements often mislead Strangers, J. MJSNZIKS would advise Tourists generally, on arriving at Melrose, to judge for themselves. CARRIAGES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Family Coffee-Room. April 1866. J. MENZIES. THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY GATE, MELROSE. THIS large Hotel is the only one which commands the view of the Ruins, being built upon the Abbey Grounds, at the entrance to the Venerable Pile, and only two minutes' walk from the Railway Station. Luncheons, Dinners, and Refreshments on the shortest notice. Wines, Spirits, and Malt Liquors of the choicest quality. Lofty well-aired Bed-rooms, Sitting and Dining Rooms, for public or private parties. First-Class Horses and Carriages aivait the arrival of all Trains, to convey Tourists to Abbotsford, Drylurgh, etc. etc. PROPRIETOR: : A:R c H i B A L D HAMILTON. HOTELS ENGLISH LAKES. 13 BROWNRIGG'S PATTERDALE HOTEL ( Within 300 yards of Hie Lake), ULLSWATER LAKE HEAD, WESTMORLAND. The Oldest-Established Hotel in the District, and the only Hotel which has the right of Fishing on Lake Ullswater. From this Hotel is the shortest and lest road to HelvelJyn, for walking or on ponies. TiHIS Hotel, which has recently received considerable additions, is fitted up with Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, contains 10 Private Sitting-Uoom.s, and every other accommodation required in a First-Class Establishment. There is a boat-landing within 300 yards, approached from the Hotel by an excellent gravel-walk, dry and clean in all seasons. The Views from this Hotel far surpass those to be obtained from any other site, and the Grounds surrounding it were described by the late Sir Joseph Paxton as laid out in a more tasteful and elegant manner than the grounds of any Hotel he had ever seen. Coaches daily to Troutbeck Station, on the Keswick and Penrith Railway ; to Windennere, Bowness, and Penrith. The Hotel has been patronised by Her Majesty the Queen, the Prince of Wales and Suite, Sir George and Lady Grey ; and the Russian Prince and Suite made this Hotel their Head Quarters during the.whole time of their visit to the Lakes. HOTEL TERMS : Breakfast, Is. 6d., Is. 9d., 2s. Dinner, 2s. 6d., 3s., 3s. 6d. Tea, Is. 6d., Is. 9d., 2s. Bed-Room, Is. 6d. to 2s. and 2s. 6d. Sitting- Roorns, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Fresh Trout every day. POST HORSES, CARRIAGES, AND BOATS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS. R. BROWNRIGG, Proprietor. (Many years with Mr. Bathe, London Tavern.) KESWICK. THE "DERWENTWATER" HOTEL, PORTINSCALE, KESWICK. Patronised by H.R.H. Prince Arthur, the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, Earl Russell and Family, Lord Lyttelton, Lord Milton, Sir Stephen Glynn, Sir E. B. Lytton, and other Families of Distinction. MRS. BELL BEGS respectfully to inform Tourists and others visiting the Lake District that every attention will be paid to parties who may favour her with their patronage. The Hotel is fitted up on the most modern principle, and commands extensive views. It is most centrally situated for Excursions, being one mile distant from Kes- wick, and a quarter of a mile from Crossthwaite Church. WINES, Ac., OF THE BEST QUALITY. Carriages, Conveyances, and Hack Horses let for hire on reasonable terms. Pleasure and Fishing Boats may be had at the Hotel. LETTERS DELIVERED EARLY OMNIBUSES ATTEND ALL THE TRAINS AT KESWICK STATION. 14 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. INVERNESS. MARSHALL'S RAILWAY STATION HOTEL NOTICE TO THE PUBLIC. "DAETIES travelling from South to North, and vice versa, -*- will find this very large and handsome Hotel adjoining the Station, whereby they can arrive at, or depart from, the Hotel under cover. The House was specially built for an Hotel, is elegantly furnished with all modem improvements, and contains numerous Suites of Private and Public Eooms, including Coffee-Eoom, Ladies' and Gentlemen's Coffee-Eoom, Smoking-Eooms, Billiard- Eoom, Bath-Rooins, &c. Nearly 100 Beds can be made up.j TABLE D'HOTE DAILY. Omnibuses will carry passengers to and from the Canal Steamers. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, INVERNESS. Establishment is now enlarged and improved after extensive alterations. The view from the windows overlooking the Eiver Ness is the very finest in Inverness. A handsome Family Coffee-Eoom for Parties who wish to avoid the expense of Private Sitting-Eooms. The Hotel Porter waits the arrival of every Train to convey Luggage free to the Hotel, which is only two minutes' walk from the Station. HOTELS INVERNESS GRANTOWN. 1 5 INVEBNESS. THE UNION HOTEL Om minute's walk from Railway. Opposite the Post-office. T)ARTIES visiting Inverness will find the above Hotel in every way Firet- _L Class. CHARGES MODERATE. A. BELFORD, PROPRIETOR. THE SKYE MAIL. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, Dingwall, Ross-shire, N.B. The Skye Mail Coach or Bus, for all parts of Skye, leaves the Caledonian Hotel daily, at 11 A.M., via Garve, Achnasheen, Jeantown, Balmacarra, &c. Job and Post Horses, and Conveyances of every description. Letters for Coach Seats, Apgrtmenta, Conveyances, &c., punctually attended to. DINQWALL, May 1, 1866. WILLIAM JOHNSTON, Proprietor. INVERNESS AND PERTH RAILWAY. GRANTOWN, STRATHSPEY. (Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen.) GRANT ARMS HOTEL, ABOUT Two Hours from Blair- Athole, and the same from Inverness, by the Highland Railway. First class accommodation at this Hotel. Beautiful Drives, River and Mountain Scenery, in the Neighbourhood. Families and Tourists travelling by the Inverness and Perth Railway will find this a most convenient and comfortable resting-place on their way going North or South. Superior Horses and Carriages for Hiring. AST Tourists are Posted on to Braemar and Ballater. See Tourists' Route by Cale- donian Canal to Inverness. Rail to Grantown ; Post-Horses to Braemar, Ballater, Balmoral, &c. The Hotel Bus attends the Trains. A. FRASER, Proprietor. 16 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. LOCH LOMOND. TARBET HOTEL, LOCH LOMOND. (Opposite Ben Lomond.} A. M'PHERSON, Proprietor. r llHIS is the only landing-place on the Lake where seats are secured for JL the three West Highland Coach Routes, through Glencroe, Inveraray, Loch Awe, Tnverarnan, Tyndrum, Glenorchy, Dalmally, Pass of Awe, Falls of Lora, Dunstaffnage Castle, to Oban ; Marquis of Breadalbane's Deer Forest, Glencoe, Ballachulisb, Fort- William, Bannavie, Caledonian Canal, to Inverness. The " Tarbet, Tnverary, and Oban" Coaches leave daily, in July, August, and September, the Tarbet Hotel at 8*30 a.m. ; Inverarnan and Tyndrum, Glencoe, and Glenorchy, at 10'30 a.m.; and the Caledonian Hotel, Oban, about 8 '30 a.m. N.B. Tourists by these Coaches, or by the early Steamers on Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, to the Trossachs, would do well, for their own convenience, to be on the previous night at the Tarbet Hotel. LOGHLOMOND. INVERSNAID HOTEL is situated in the most central and picturesque parts of the banks of Loch Lomond, and is the landing-place for Tourists and others visiting the delightful scenery of Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, Clachan of Aberfoyle, etc. Carriages and otherconveyances are always in readiness for parties crossing to the Stronaclacher Hotel, for the steamer plying on Loch Katrine from Coalbarns Pier to the Trossachs. CALEDONIAN HOTEL, OBAN. MISS SMITH, late of the Arrochar Hotel, respectfully announces to the Nobility, Gentry, and General Public, that she has now become Lessee of the above Hotel, which is one of the largest in the West of Scotland, and trusts to merit a continuance of the liberal patronage bestowed upon her so many years at Arrochar. The Caledonian Hotel, by painting, papering, and refitting, and newly and fashionably furnishing, will be second to none. It will be the unceasing endeavour of Miss S. to provide a comfort- able home in the Highlands to all visiting the Caledonian. Her Establishment at Arrochar was favourably known to English and Foreign Tourists, and the travelling public ; and Miss 8. relies with much confidence that cleanliness, and the tidy arrange- ments to fonn a comfortable Hotel in the best sense, combined with justly moderate charges, will distinguish her Establishment. Horses and Carriages kept at the Hotel. HOTELS LOCHLOMOND OBAN T . 1 7 BEN LOMOND (Foot of). ROWARDEXXAX HOTEL. AXDKEW BLAIR, in returning thanks to Tourists and others for their kind support for the last 35 years, begs leave to intimate that he has built a large addition to the above Hotel, which will afford greater comfort to his numerous customers. Rowarden- nan is the best and shortest road to Ben Lomond, and the only place where ponies can be had, by which parties can ride with the greatest ease and safety to the top the distance is only four miles to the very summit. The Lochlomond steamers call at the Rowardennan Wharf four times a-day on their route up and down the Loch. INVERARNAN HOTEL, HEAD OF LOCHLOMOND. A. M'GREGOR, Proprietor. '[" HIS Hotel, surrounded by most romantic and Picturesque Scenery, at ttie top of the L Queen of Scotch Lakes, and at the foot of the famous Glen Falloch, is in the imme- diate neighbourhood of Rob Roy's Birthplace and Cave, Campbell's Burying-ground. Falls of the Falloch, Cascades of Inish and Arnan, so much admired by Tourists. Has besides these attractions the great advantage of being the nearest starting-point on the Lake (by 10 miles) for the coaches during the season to Oban, Glencoe, Fort-William, Killiii, Kenmore, and Aberfeldy. The Hotel is newly furnished, and has excellent ac- commodation for Tourists and Families. The Posting Establishment is complete. A 'Bus waits the arrival of the Steamer during the season. Fishing in the Falloch. Boats for the Lake. OBAN. GREAT WEJTTJRN HOTEL. MR. CAMPBELL begs to intimate that he has relinquished his tenancy of the CALEDONIAN HOTEL, Oban, and that his business is now confined to the GREAT WESTERN NEW HOTEL, which has been recently enlarged. From the long and extensive patron- age he has received, he assures his friends that no effort will be spared on his part to render the Hotel worthy of public support. Messrs. Hutcheson and Company's swift and elegant Steamers sail daily during Summer (Sunday excepted) to Greenock, Glasgow, Fort-William, In- verness, and for Statfa, I on a, and Glencoe three times a-week ; for Skye and the Western Isles twice a-week. Coaches also arrive and depart from the Hotel daily ; and private conveyances can be had on the shortest notice. OBAN, May 1866. 18 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. PERTHSHIRE. LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL, BALQUHIODER. HER MAJESTY'S FIRST ROUTE IN THE HIGHLANDS FROM TAYMOUTH CASTLE. Hotel, situated at the foot of the wild Glen Ogle and in the far-famed parish, of Balquhidder, having heen con- siderably enlarged and nearly rebuilt and refurnished, offers first-class accommodation to Private Families, Tourists, and Travellers. The views from the oriel windows of the Sitting-Booms and large new Coffee-Rooms command the magnificent scenery of Loch Earn and the surrounding country, including the upper part of Strathearn. The Proprietor takes this opportunity to thank those of his friends who have hitherto patronised his Hotel, and begs to assure them and the public generally that no pains will be spared to increase their comfort and accommodation during their stay at his house, combined with strictly moderate charges. The Hotel, from its beautiful situation and quiet character of the place, with its many objects of interest in the locality and along the various routes abovefnentioned, is particularly adapted for Families or Parties who wish to stay any length of time. The Hotel is entirely supplied by the produce of the Farm connected with it. Boats are kept for Fishing on the Loch, and Carriages of all kinds ready at a few minutes' notice for Posting or Driving. There is a Daily Mail. A Four-horse Coach runs daily in the Summer months to and from Aberfeldy and Callander Rail- way Stations. Orders by Post promptly attended to. ROBERT P. DAYTON, PROPRIETOR. LOCH EARN HEAD, CRIEFF. H TELS PKttTHSHIHE. I '.I PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS. WEEM HOTEL. Hotel is delightfully situated within five minutes' drive of Aberfeldy Station, at the base of the beautifully-wooded and picturesque Rock of Weem, close to Castle Meuzies, on the direct roads to Killin and Raxinoch, and in the centre of the finest scenery in the Highlands. Taymouth Castle, Loch Tay, the Falls of Acharn, the ruins of Garth Castle, the exquisitely- beautiful valley of Glenlyon, and other innumerable objects of interest, are all within the compass of short excursions ; while the drives round Drummond Hill and to Meggernie Castle are among the very finest in Scotland each being a perfect epitome of Highland scenery. The Hotel contains Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths, a large and handsomely-furnished Public Room, and suites of spacious Apartments. Every attention is paid to domestic comfort. The Posting Department comprises open and close Carriages, Waggonettes, Dog-carts, &c., of the most modern description, with very superior horses. Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Tay. The Hotel Omnibus attends the Trains at Aberfeldy. Intending Visitors are respectfully warned not to be deterred by the misstatement of Touters and other interested parties at the Station. D. MACDONALD, Proprietor. WEEM HOTEL, 1866. 20 BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. VICTORIA HOTEL, ROTHESAY. JOHN WILSON, Late Steward of the Glasgow, Belfast, and Dublin Royal Mail Steamers. HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER SEA-WATER BATHS. GLENBURN HOUSE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, Rothesay Island of Bute Scotland. ESTABLISHED IN 1843. Conducted by WILLIAM PATERSON, M.D., Member of the Royal College of Surgeons, London. TERMS : Board with Medical Attendance in the establishment Three Guineas per week. For treatment in Lodgings, 1 : 10s. 1 : Is. and 10s. 6d. per week. Consulting Fee, 10s. 6d. HOTELS GLASGOW MOFFAT. TO TOTJKIST3. TOURISTS AND STRANGERS IN GLASGOW WILL FIND A LARGE VARIETY OF VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY, GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, AND BOOKS SUITABLE FOR RAILWAY READING, AT JAMES REID'S, Bookseller and Stationer, 144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. DRUMMOND'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 69 UNION STREET, GLASGOW. Lately greatly increased. Superior accommodation in Bed-Rooms, Par- lours, and Commercial Room. Situation thoroughly Central and Quiet. Bed-Room and Servants, 2s. No Gratuities. MOFFAT SPA, DUMFRIESSHIRE, N.B. ANNANDALE ARMS HOTEL. ROBERT NORRIS, PROPRIETOR. 'FOURISTS and Visitors to this famous Watering-place will find at the Annandale J- Arms Hotel First-class Accommodation, combined with moderate charges. Com- mercial gentlemen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. Omni- buses meet the Trains at Beattock Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along the route passing " Craigieburn Wood," Bodesbeck, Gray Mare's Tail to St. Mary's Loch, each Tuesday and Saturday. Omnibuses ply to the wells every morning. Ciar- riages of all kinds ; Job and Post Horses on hire. ^. First-class Billiard-Room on the premises. 22 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. TO TOURISTS. When in Stirling visiting the Castle and Field of Bannockburn, etc. etc., Procure a Relic of the DOUGLAS ROOM, CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY FIELD of BANNOCKBURN, ABBEY CRAIG, etc. etc. A great variety of Useful and Ornamental Articles, BOOKS, ALBUMS, PRAYERS, etc. etc., Bound, and made of the above interesting Wood, are on sale at the Depot for Scotch Wood Manufactures, 24 KING STREET, STIRLING. R S, SHEARER, BOOKSELLER, ETC. ETC. May 1866. ROYAL HOTEL, STIRLING. THE Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists visiting Stirling, -will find at the above- Hotel every comfort and attention. It is conveniently situated, being within three minutes' walk of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the Steam Wharf. Its situation renders it a most eligible house for parties arriving and departing by the Railway and Steamers. Every attention will be paid to letters securing apartments, or carriages to proceed to the Highlands. To prevent mistakes, letters require to be addressed ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL, Royal Hotel, Stirling. STIRLING, April 1866. GOLDEN LION HOTEL, STIRLING. CAMPBELL'S, LATE GIBE'S, D. CAMPBELL begs to return his best thanks for the liberal patronage he has received during the many years he has been Proprietor of this old established Hotel, and re- spectfully intimates that many improvements have been effected in the house, render- ing it complete in every department as a residence for Families, Tourists, etc. K3T A large Coffee-room for Ladies and Gentlemen. The Hotel is in the principal street, near all the Public Offices} and the Railway Station. A conveyance awaits the arrival of 'all Trains and Steamers. D. C.'s Posting and Carriage 'Establishment is complete/and parties writing for conveyances or apartments may depend on the order being carefully attended to. OS" Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. April 1866. CAMPBELL, Golden Lion Hotel, King Street, Stirling. SCOTT'S POETICAL WORKS. TOURISTS' EDITIONS. The only Copyright Editions Published. Price Is. 6d. each. 1. Lady of the Lake. 2. Marmion. 3. Lav of the Last Minstrel. 4. Lord of the Isles. 5. Rokeby. 6. Bridal of Triermain. The above in Morocco, price 2s. 6d. each. Handy Edition, in 12mo, extra cloth* gilt edges, with portrait and 18 Woodcuts, price 5s. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. 23 MACDOUGALL & CO, THE EOYAL CLAN TARTAN WAREHOUSE INVERNESS, AND 42 Sackville Street, (3 doors off) Piccadilly, LONDON, > MANUFACTURERS TO |jj P HER MAJESTY AND THE ROYAL FAMILY, I H gj THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES, tg ^ And the Courts of France, Russia, Prussia, and Spain, 5/5 (H &} ^ Respectfully solicit attention to the largest and most varied assortment 5 jj of Scotch Goods in the Kingdom, for which their establishment has 5" a been so long famed, and for which they were awarded a FIRST-CLASS j J PRIZE MEDAL in the Great International Exhibition of 1862. o CO W. THE HIGHLAND COSTUME, complete and correct with all the necessary .. Highland ornaments, as they have the honour of regularly supplying to the o g English and French Courts. THE FAMOUS HIGHLAND CLOAK, of which they are the Inventors, and **" h only supply in the correct style. 7. 01 FOR D'EER-STALKING AND GROUSE-SHOOTING, an endless variety * of the most approved Fabrics for Mountain, Moor, and River, including their pi old Standard Patterns, so well known to all Sportsmen. g FOR TOWN WEAR, an immense variety of the most delightful textures in ^ Heather, Granite, Stone, and other Plain and Fancy Patterns. LINSEY WOOLSEYS in superb qualities, and the newest shades and pat- Q terns for Ladies' Town and Country Wear. a TARTANS, TWEEDS, and SCOTCH POPLINS in exquisite textures, for ~ nq Ladies' Dresses, Cloaks, Jackets, Dressing Gowns, Riding Habits, etc. etc. *fl 41 An unrivalled selection of SHAWLS, PLAIDS, CLOAKS, JACKETS, Real g* 1 (undyed) Vicuna Shawls, Plaids, Jackets, etc. ; Fine Knitted Shetland Shawls p M and Hosiery ; Deer-Stalking Hoods, Capes, and Ponchos ; Railway Wrappers ; O; JJj Kilt and Knickerbocker Hose ; Stalking Hats, Bonnets, Caps, Gloves, Hand- C 2 kerchiefs, Scarfs, Waterproof Coats, Capes, Leggings, etc. etc. etc. yj" Z THIN SCOTCH TWEEDS and FLANNELS specially prepared for Tropical - ^J Climates, Medically declared to be more healthy than either cotton or linen fabrics TWEEDS DESIGNED AND MADE TO SDIT ANY PARTICULAR DISTRICT: CARPETS, CRUMB-CLOTHS, HORSE-CLOTHS, BED-COVERS, ETC. Made in all the Clan Tartans. PATTERNS AND FORMS FOR SELF-MEASUREMENT FREE BY POST. Goods forwarded to London and the Provinces free of Carriage, and to all parts of the world without risk to the sender. GREAT ATTENTION GIVEN TO THE PROMPT AND EXACT EXECUTION OF ALL ORDERS. 24 BLACK 8 GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. RECONNOrfERER" CLASS Price 10s. 10<7., sent free. THIS WIDELY-RENOWNED "TOURIST'S FAVOURITE" Distinctly shows Small Windows 10 Miles off, Landscape at 30 Miles, Venus in Crescent, Mountains of the Moon, Jupiter's Satellites, etc. MARQUIS OF CARMARTHEN: "The Recon- noiterer is very good." EARL OF CAITHNESS : " It is a beautiful Glass." EARL OF BREADALBANE : " I find it all you say, and wonderfully powerful for so very small a Glass. " LOKD GARVAGH : " Remarkably good." REV. LORD SCARSDALE " approves of it." LOKD GIFFORD : " Most useful." SIR DIGBY CAYLEY : " It gives me com- plete satisfaction, and is wonderfully good." SIR W. H. FIELDEN : " For its size, I do not consider it can be surpassed. It gives great satisfaction." MAJOR STARKEY, of Wrenbury : "Quite as powerful as that for which I gave 5: 5s." CAPT. SENDEY, Royal Small Arms Factory, Enfleld : "I have found it effective at the 1000 yards' range." F. H. FAWKES, of Famley, Esq. : " I never before, although I have tried many, met a glass combining so much power, for its size, with so much clea:u> s.-." Our "ARCHERY CORRESPONDENT" (OwcrC) says " the portability of the Reconnoiterer Glass is not its least recommendation ; while its adaptability to uses in which protracted and minute observation of arrows entering various ranges at differ- ent distances is absolutely necessary, as in archery matches, renders the Recon- noiterer one of the best aids to visual power ever placed at the command of toxophilites. " The Field: " The economy of price is not procured at the cost of efficiency. We have carefully tried the instrument at an- SOO-yard rifle range, against all the glasses possessed by the members of the corps, and found it fully equal to any of those present, although they had cost more than four times its price." Notes and Queries: "What TOT'RIST will now start without such an INDISPENSABLE COMPANION ? " The Celebrated " HYTHE " Glass shows Bullet-Marks at 1200 Yards, and ' Men at 3 Miles. Price Bis. 6d. e5T These Glasses form the very best Tourists' Companions that can possibly be selected, and accordingly the number annually sold for the purpose is enormous. R? All the above, respectively bearing the registered Trade Marks, " RECONNOITERER " and " HYTHE " are only to be had direct from, or by.written application to, SALOM AND CO., 98 Princes Street, Edinburgh, and 137 Regent Street, London. A few Jwurs suffice to carry a " Reconnoiterer " to almost the remotest Post Town in the Kingdom. Most positively no Agents of any kind anywhere. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. 25 SCOTTISH HISTORY, POETKY, FIELD SPORTS, &c. AN ILLUSTRATED EDITION of AYTOUN'S LAYS OF THE SCOTTISH CAVALIERS, from Designs by NOEL PATON. Small 4to, toned paper, gilt, cloth, 21s. Another Edition, fcap, 8vo, 7s. 6d. THE BALLADS OF SCOTLAND. Edited by Professor AYTOUN. Two volumes, fcap. 8vo, 12s. BOTHWELL : A POEM. By Professor AYTOUN. Foolscap 8vo, 7s. Gd. STRICKLAND'S LIVES OF THE QUEENS OF SCOTLAND. Illustrated with Portraits and Historical Scenes. Eight vuls. Foolscap 8vo, 4 : 4s. STRICKLAND'S LIFE OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. Illustrated with several Steel Portraits and Historical Vignettes. Five volumes. Foolscap 8vo, cloth, 2 12:6. LIFE OF JOHN KNOX. Embracing Illustrations of the History of the Re- formation in Scotland. Bv the Rev. Dr. M'CRiE. Crown 8vo, 6s. THE SCOT ABROAD, AND "THE ANCIENT LEAGUE WITH FRANCE. By JOHN HILL BUKTON. Two vols. cr. 8vo, in Roxburghe binding, 15s. HISTORY OF SCOTLAND, from the Revolution to the extinction of the last Jacobite Insurrection, 1689-1748. By JOHN HILL BURTON. Two volumes, 8vo, los. MEMORIALS OF THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH. By JAMES GRANT. Second Edition. With Twelve Engravings. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. PROFESSOR WILSON'S NOCTES AMBROSIANJE. Four volumes. Crown 8vo,16s. PROFESSOR WILSON'S RECREATIONS OF CHRISTOPHER NORTH. Two volumes, 8s. PROFESSOR WILSON'S TALES. Containing Lights and Shadows of Scottish Life; Trials of Margaret Lyndsay ; The Foresters. One volume, 4s. STODDART'S ANGLER'S COMPANION TO THE RIVERS AND LOCHS OF SCOTLAND. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. MAPS OF THE COUNTIES OF SCOTLAND. With the Railways. In Case for the Pocket, one shilling each. The Thirty-one Maps bound in one volume with General Map, roan tuck, 10s. 6d. THE MOOR AND THE LOCH. Containing Minute Instructions in all High- land Sports, with Wanderings over Crag and Correi, Flood and Fell. By JOHN COLQUHOUN, Esq. Third Edition. 8vo, with Illustrations, 12s. 6d. SALMON-CASTS AND STRAY SHOTS. Being Fly-Leaves from the Note- Book of JOHN COLQUHOUN, Esq., Author of " The Moor and the Loch," &c. Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 5s. THE CAIRNGORM MOUNTAINS. By JOHN HILL BURTON. Crown 8vo, cloth, 3*. 6d. THE HISTORY OF SCOTLAND FROM AGRICOLA'S INVASION TO THE REVOLUTION OF 1688. By JOHN HILL BURTON, Author of " The Scot Abroad." In the press. TRAVELLING MAP OF SCOTLAND. By A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E. With Index of easy reference to 9250 Places on the Map. Price, in a Pocket-Case, 7s. 6d. ; or in Sheets, 6s. &EOLOGICAL MAP OF SCOTLAND. By PROFESSOR NICOL, Aberdeen : with Explanatory Notes. The Topography by A. KEITH JOHNSTON. Three feet by two feet. Carefully coloured. Price 21s. in a Case for the Pocket. W. BLACK WOOD & SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 26 BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. WHERE SHALL WE GO ? A GUIDE TO THE HEALTHIEST AND MOST BEAUTIFUL WAT ER I N G PLACES OF ENGLAND, WALES, SCOTLAND, and IRELAND. Including the information generally wanted by those seeking a temporary or permanent change of abode. Illustrated with Maps and Engravings, price 2s. 6d., or in Limp Cloth, 3s. Among Places described are the following : Aberayron Abergele Aberystwith Aldborough (Suffolk) Ardrossan Ballater Bangor Barmouth Bath Beaumaris Ben Rhydding Blackpool Bournemouth Bray Bridge of Allan Bridlington Quay Brighton Builth Buxton Castle Connell Channel Islands Cheltenham Clevcdon Clifton Cowes Crieff Dawlish Douglas Dover Dundrum Dunoon Eastbourne Exmouth and Budleigh Salterton Filey Fleetweod Folkestone Gilsland Gourock Gravesend Harrogate Hastings Helensburgh Holywood Howth Ilfracombe Ilkley Inneilan Isle of Man Isle of Wight Kilrush Kingstown Largs Leamington Littlehanipton Landudno Llanstephen Lowestoft Lucan Lynie Regis Lythain Malahide Malvern Margate Matlock Millport Moffat North Berwick Oban Passage Penmaenmawr Penzance Portobello Port St. Qut?f-iist\vu Ramsay Ramsgate Redcar Rhyl Rostrevor Rothesay Ryde Saltburn-by-the-Sea Sandgate Sandown Shanklin Scarborough Sidinouth Silloth St. Leonard's-on-Sea St. Andrews Strathpelfer Southend Southport Southsea St. Leonards Swanage Swansea Teignmouth Tenby Torquay Tunbridge Wells Tynemouth Ventnor Warrenpoint Weston-super-Mare Weymouth Wh'itby Worthing EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. " Dum Capimus Capimur." Just Published, in croion 8vo, price 6s., uniform with "Book of the Pike" FISHING GOSSIP, STRAY LEAVES FROM THE NOTE-BOOKS OF SEVERAL ANGLERS. EDITED BY H. CHOLMONDELEY PENNELL, Author of " The Book of the Pike," etc. DUM CAPIMUS CAPIMUR. By H. Cholmon- deley Pennel I RISK LOACH-TROLLING. ByE.N-Murta,M. D. A PLEA FOR TOURISTS. By Wr. Carruthers A SEASIDE YARN. By N. B. Lord, author of " Sea Fish, and How to Catch Them " A STREAM IN ARDEN. By T. Westwood, author of "The Bibliotheca Piscatoria " ENTOMOLOGY OF BAIT. By William Pinker- ton, F.S.A., F.A.S.L. EARLY AND LATE SALMON RIVERS. By W. J. Fennell, H.M. Inspector of Fisheries BAGNALL'S BDNGLES. By H. C. Pennell AN ANGLER AT THE ANTIPODES. By H. R. Frances, M.A., author of the "^Fly-flsher and his Library," etc. " SUN-SPEARING." By Edward N. Murta HEY FOR COQUET ! By Thomas Westwood A TORPEDO AT ONE END OF THE LINE. By Jonathan Couch, F.R.S. EDINBURGH : ADAM CARP GOSSIP. By William Pinkerton THE SILURIS GLANIS. By Dr. Gunther, Curator of the Ichthyological Depart- ment, British Museum FLY-FISHING BY NIGHTLIGHT. By Edward N. Murta A LAY OF THE LEA. By T. Westwood THE PUFF PISCATORIAL. Editor DEESIDE JOTTINGS. By Edward N. Murta SPRING FISHING IN LOCH ARD. By Alex- ander Russel, author of " The Salmon" CURIOSITIES OF ANGLING LITERATURE. By Greville Fennell, Esq. RAMBLES BY TWEED. By Thomas Tod Stoddart, author of " The Angler's Com- panion, " etc. HISTORY* OF ANGLING FROM BEFORE THE DELUGE. By Jonathan Couch FLY-FISHING, etc. By W. C. Stewart, author of " The Practical Angler " & CHARLES BLACK. 28 BLACK S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. IN TWELVE SHEETS. SCALE 4 MILES TO THE INCH. Aberdeen . . Argyllshire . . [ Arran ... Ayr .... Braemar . . Caledonian Canal Clyde . . . . Dumfries . . . Edinburgh . . , Glasgow . . . . Inverness . . . Loch Lomond . . Oban . . . . Perthshire Sheet No. 9 5 2 2 . 5 . 5 4 and 5 Perth and Dunlcehl 4 Ross-shire .. Skye Sta/a and lona Sutherlandshire Trossadis -. . 8 7 6 11 5 Separate sheets, in cloth cases, 2s. 6d. each. Sets of 12 sheets together, in box case . . .'110 Ditto mounted on Cloth, ditto . . 180 Extended on Rollers, Varnished . . . . 220 EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHAELES BLACK. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. BLACK'S NEW LARGE MAP ENGLAND AND WALES. In SIXTEEN SHEETS coloured. Scale 4 miles to the inch. Uniform in scale with the Map of Scotland. fMMGMH* YOfK f* : *., . tiesas wu\ -Z^jtttef>ii>. __iyvs:;^S 1 _ X S:RINSHAM* ftrtfxsousH I "} WJHW1CK C.1MS-HCX1E Ait&t&rt ' " * B - : * w/ w '^g '"t^J , -' eLOlMXSTtB OXfpXD ""T EKIfTl't (C/W Bfi>fc(WSK 14W^U 'o, . I CfflMTCt txm/>\ ^^5-^*7" *~ >^>y^9r^X 'LMOUTH J l> -JL y CflfTn 13 r tot? _M 3 161_JS SHEETS NOW READY. Sheet 5. York and North Lancaster. Sheet 13. Middlesex, Sussex, Kent. 14. Hants, Dorset, Bristol. 15. Devon. 16. Cornwall & South Devon. 6. East Riding. 7. Lincoln and North Norfolk. 12. Suffolk, Essex, &c. Separate Sheets in doth Cases, coloured, price 2s. 6d. each. The remaining Sheets will be published in the course of the Summer. When complete, this will form the largest wall Map of England and Wales yet published. _ EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHAELES BLACK. 30 BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS. 1866. Aberdeen and Braemar. is. Belfast and Giant's Cause- way, is. 6d. Brighton and Vicinity, is. Channel Islands. 3 s. 6d. Cornwall (Stilly Isles}. 2s. 6d. Derbyshire. 2s. 6d. Devonshire. 2s. 6d. Dorsetshire. 2s. 6d. Dorset, Devon, and Corn- wall (in one vol.) $s. Dover and Folkestone, is. Dublin and Wick low. is. 6d. Edinburgh, is. England. IDS. 6d. English Lakes. $s. and is. Gakvay, etc. is. 6d. Glasgow and the Clyde, is. Gloucestershire. 2s. 6d. fj. ants and Isle of Wight. 2s. 6d. Hereford and Monmouth. 2s. 6d. Highlands of Scotland. i os. 6d. Ireland. $s. Isle of Wight, is. 6d. Kent. 3-$-. 6d. Killarney. is. 6d. London. 3^. 6d. Do. Plan of. is. and is. 6d. M off at. is. Scarborough and Harro- gate. is. Scotland. 8s. 6d. Skye. is. Surrey. $s. Sussex. 2s. 6d. Sutherlandsh ire. I s. Trossachs. is. Wales. $s. Do. North. 3.?. 6d. Do. South. 2s. 6d. Warwickshire. 2s. 6d. Where shall we go ? 2s. 6d. Yorkshire. s. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. 31 BLACK'S TRAVELLING MAPS. ENGLAND. 32 X 23 1 inches, with Railways, &c, mounted on cloth and in case, 45. 6d. 20 X 14-3- inches, 2s. 6d. Uncoloured, in paper cover, is. New Large Map, in 1 6 sheets, price 2s. 6d. each. IRELAND. 20 X 141 inches, 2s. 6d. Uncoloured, in paper cover* I s. KILLARNEY DISTRICT (scale, 4 miles to the inch), in cloth case, 2s. 6d. LAKE DISTRICT of Cumberland, Westmorland, &c. 19 X 14 inches. Scale of 3^ miles to the inch, 2s. 6d. Uncoloured, in paper cover, i s. Tourists' charts, is. SCOTLAND. 321 X 24 inches, mounted on cloth and in case, 43. 6d. 20 X 14! inches, 2s. 6d. -Uncoloured, in paper cover, is. Large Map in 12 sheets, 2s. 6d. each. WALES, North and South separately, 1 4 X I I inches, is. 6d. each. North and South in one. Uncoloured, in paper cover, I s. YORKSHIRE. In cloth case, is. EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOK ADVERTISER. New Guicles. WARWICKSHIRE. Just published a new edition, price 23. 6d., of Blacks Guide to Warwickshire. Arranged in Alphabetical order. Illustrated with Maps, Charts, Plans, and Views. In a neat Volume, price 33. 6d. BlacKs Guide to the Channel Islands Arranged alphabetically for convenience of Tourists. With Maps and Illustrations. EDITED BY DAVID THOMAS ANSTED, M.A., F.R.S EDINBURGH : ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. /sT .i v ij,lA. ' A !t / .-. "Vi^ / / r^- ff #* DA LlB5.6b 1866 Hi abo UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles TK: Wok t DUE on the last date stamped below. 20m-7,'G7(H3149s4) UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY