o THE LIBRARY OF o ^S d&r) o VINIIOilW3 dO O \ o THE LIBRARY OF o C© ^£ n « VINVOillO iO OF CAUFORNIA e 1 u ^ 1 3 1 3 ^ JO AdViigii JHl * o THE IIBRARV OF o I.-I^IS o VWaifYfl VINVS o o THE UNIVERSITY o e wnvn viMvs o g 3f\ O AllS«3AINn 3Hi « X o v»v««v« vtnys o / 9 Sft o AllSHSAlNn 3HX o o THE UNIVERSITY o O > < o Of CAllfORNIA o /■ \ a B SANTA BARBARA ° o THE UNIVEH5ITY o o THE UBRARY OF o Si I — Is \ THE UNITED STATES OF YESTERDAY AND OF TO-MORROW. THE UNITED STATES OF YESTERDAY AND OF TO-MORROW. BY WILLIAM BARROWS, D.D., AUTHOR OF 'twelve nights in the hunters' camp;" " OREGON : THE STRUGGLE FOR possession;" "the Indian's side of the Indian question;" etc. Out of old Books, new Writings, and much Meditation not of yesterday, lie will endeavor to select a thing or two ; and from the Past, in a circuitous way, illustrate the Present and the Future. — Carlyle. Whoever would do his duty, and his whole duty, in the councils of the Government, must look upon the whole country as it is, in its whole length and breadth. He must comprehend it in its vast extent, its novel character, its sudden development, its amazing progress, confounding all calculations, and almost overwhelming the imagination. — Webster. BOSTON: ROBERTS BROTHERS. 1888. Copyright, 1887, By E. a. Barrows. John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. CONTENTS. Page INTRODUCTION vii Chaptek I. How Large is the West ? 9 II. Surprising Distances in the United States 18 III. The Six Growths of the United States . 27 IV. Growth in Settlements 42 V. Ancient Chicago 53 YI. The "Great American Desert" .... 93 VII. Large Landholdings in the United States . 138 VIII. Wild Life on the Border 169 IX. Pioneering in Education 200 X. Lynch Law 221 XL Eastern Jealousy and Neglect of the West 263 XII. The Railway System of the West . . . 314 XIII. The Empire of the Future 355 XIV. Conclusion 404 INDEX 421 INTRODUCTION. 'T^HIS book has been written to answer ques- -^ tions. As the author in earlier days liad spent several years beyond the Mississippi, and much time and travel there since in official work, during which he made ten tours over the border, and in the East had devoted much labor to public addresses and lectures on our new country, it was quite natural that a miscellaneous information should be solicited from him concerning the terri- tory between the Alleghanies and the Pacific. For various reasons it has seemed best to let this information group itself into topics, and so it stands classified under headings and in chapters. If it seem that many authors have been cited or quoted, with volume and page given, the reason is obvious. They were better informed on the matters in hand than the writer, and therefore support his statements and observations with a wider authority. Vm INTRODUCTION. The author hopes that the candid reader will not allow the magnitude of some of the facts and statements to mar their credibility. Such vast- ness must be both expected and tolerated in speaking faithfully of a domain much larger than all Europe, whose growth in all the ele- ments of a nation has been without precedent or parallel. WILLIAM BARROWS. Reading, Mass., October, 1887. THE UNITED STATES OF YESTERDAY AND OF TO-MORROW. CHAPTER I. HOW LARGE IS " THE WEST " ? NEAR the close of the last century France was making wonderful growth in imperial territory and power. Her increase M-as so great and convulsive as to jar every throne in Europe. Edmund Burke anxiously turned the attention of Great Britain to her colossal rival, and spoke of ambitious France as " something which awed and commanded the imagination." How large, territorially, would the France of to- day be in this country ? Suppose Texas to be a circular lake and France a circular island ; the island could be anchored centrally in the lake out of sight of land, twent3-two miles from any point on the encircling shore. The vastness of this State of Texas — equal to the capacity of England five times, and of Massachusetts thirty- 10 now LARGE IS " THE WEST " ? four — is not so very much overstated by the bold figure of Mr. Webster iu his 7th of March Speech : " So vast that a bird caunot fly over it in a week." One accurate statement in arithmet- ical figures is so startling as at first to provoke an honest disbelief. Nevertheless it is true that if the entire living population of the globe — fourteen hundred millions — were divided into families of five persons each, all tliose families could be located in Texas, each family having a house-lot of half an acre, and then leave more than seventy millions of family lots untaken.^ Such surprises are constantly recurring if one follows up an ordinary school geography with questions of comparison. In the days of the con- troversy with England over Oregon, some thought it too small an item for so great a peril of the peace and blood of the two countries. The item puts on ampler and more important extent and issue to-day, when our portion of the territory then in dispute — Oregon, Washington Territory, and Idaho — is equal in extent to Great Britain and Ireland twice told, with a remnant nearly as large as Connecticut. If Colorado M^ere crowded into the map of Europe it would crowd out almost as much as Belgium, the Netherlands, Portugal, Switzerland, Greece, and Wales. If we were able to take 1 We have followed Donaldson as to the area of Texas = 274,356 sc[uare miles. HOW LARGE IS "THE WEST"? H iinuiigraiton of acres, and nationally, we could locate in Dakota, acre for acre. Great Britain, Ire- land, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Suppose a parallelogram be made to corner on Milwaukee, with a line due west to tlie Pacific, and by the ocean shore north to our northwestern corner, and thence on our boundary line due east, and to Lake Superior and down to the point of starting, — that enclosure, being about three hun- dred and fifty-seven miles by seventeen hundred and fifty-six, would cut up into one hundred and twenty-nine Connecticuts. Yet another illustration from that region will serve to impress on us the magnitude of our interior and Western areas. In 1864 Abraham Lincoln signed th.e bill granting the Northern Pacific Eailroad. As a trunk road it might be assumed to open up a belt of wild laud four hun- dred miles wide and eighteen hundred long. This amount of unsettled country the charter proposed to take from its prehistoric occupants — Indians and buffaloes — and give it to agriculture, manu- factures, commerce, schoolhouses and churches, voters and jurors. That belt would contain Eng- land, Scotland, and Ireland ; Spain and Portugal ; Belgium and the Netherlands ; Norway, Den- mark, Sweden, and eight Palestines. And yet the most eastern depot of that road is fifteen hundred miles west of New England tide-water. A man visits those eleven States of the Old World, and is 12 HOW LAKGE IS " THE WEST " ? gone a year on the long tour, and after liis return he perhaps lectures or publishes a book on his travels. The next generation may travel as far in the cars on that belt and see as many marvels of growth as he would hoary wonders abroad, and not leave home. It may enhance the force of this illustration of area to add that the amount of land granted to this road by the Government in its original char- ter was equal to all New England and an extra Massachusetts. Probably few Americans, even scholarly ones, and certainly very few of those whose benevolence works in the extension of education and Chris- tianity for the world, realize how much the Amer- ican Union was enlarged by the Mexican War and the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo that closed it in 1848, and the Gadsden Purchase. That treaty for- mally included and conceded Texas, previously an- nexed, and the total addition to the territory of the United States was equal to one hundred and four States as large as Massachusetts ; it was one hundred and fifty times larger than the Holy Land of Israel, the Palestine of marvellous record. Patriotism, philanthropy, and Christianity have been singularly tardy in going in where our sword went out ; and the most of this land has won but little interest, though under our own flag, com- pared with the interest given by us to lands under the Crescent, and to the territory and home now LARGE IS "THE WEST"? 13 missionary fields of the English Crown. It is one of the peculiarities of benevolence in the United States, that so much of the foreign field of the American church is the home field of the British Crown and of the Established Church of England. I shall never recover from the overwhelming impressions of the vastness of our great valley lying between the Alleghanies and the Eocky Mountains, as they came on me when I first went down the eastern slope of it. It was in the au- tumn of 1840, when our steamer swung into the Ohio at Guyandotte, and we were seven days of fair running to St. Louis. Current and steam for a week to go down one side of this valley ! Since then I have seen more of it, and only to deepen the thought of its immensity. Its northern rim is perpetually fringed by arctic lichens and mosses and firs around their ice-beds, and its southern is perpetually fragrant with the rose and magnolia and orange-blossom. If you are familiar mainly \A'ith the valley of the Thames or Tweed or Merrimac or Hudson, struggle a moment with your fancy to measure this great valley of a continent. As aid and stepping- stones, recall your reading of Roman history when that Empire had its greatest extent. Consider how beyond the horizon in all directions Eoman legions swarmed, capturing the great cities of the world and then returning to the Eternal City 14 now LARGE IS " THE WEST " ? leading processions of kings and nobles as cap- tives and suitors. Yet this valley bas capacity for tbe entire lloman Empire in tbe days of its broadest expanse, and half another ! Tiie sword of a CjBsar could never point so far over ter- ritory it claimed and awed as tlie peaceful band of an American President is extended to receive tbe votes and congratulations of the Itepublic. Gibbon gives tbe greatest area of the Eoman Empire at 1,000,000 square miles, and our valley is 2,450,000. Europe is cut up into twenty areas, with as many governments. They range from imperial Eussia to tlie principality of Monaco, embracing six square miles, — about one fourth of the extent of a Yankee township. The twenty, realms of Europe, the entire continent, could be located within the United States, and then there would remain uncovered all New England, New York, New Jersey, Maryland, Pennsylvania, and West Virginia. This statement will not surprise any one who considers that the United States is nine- teen times larger than France, twenty times larger than Spain, and seventy-eight times larger than England. Our Pacific margin is worthy of measuring and considering by one who would speak correctly of the West. Its exact length, according to tbe United States Coast Survey, from the corner post on Mexico to British Columbia, is seventeen HOW LAKGE IS " THE WEST " ■? 15 hundred and forty-three miles, measuring and reckoning in, as is usual in such work, coast indentations. The shore line of the Territory of Alaska, measured from headland to headland, without regard to coast indentations and exclu- sive of all islands off the coast and beyond Ooni- mak Pass, is forty-three hundred and sixty-five statute miles. This includes the northern or Arc- tic coast line beyond Behriug Strait and up past Point Barrow to Demarcation Point. Here is a United States coast line of sixty-one hundred and eight statute miles ; and its extent will be more justly estimated in comparison with the total At- lantic coast line of Europe, which is only eighty- four hundred and eighty miles. This coast fact contrasts strikingly, and for the United States pleasantly, with the very English assumption and prediction of Sir George Simpson in his narrative of " A Journey Pound the World in 1841-42." The Oregon Question was then warming toward its conclusion, and Sir George, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, doubled his cruise on the northwest coasts in his interests in fur and English dominion. Evidently feeling and fearing the rivalry of the United States on that coast, and having said that our acquisition of Louisiana " nursed into life the marauder's plea of contiguity," he proceeds to add : " The United States will never possess more than a nominal jurisdiction, nor long possess even that, on the 16 HOW LARGE IS " THE WEST " ? west side of the Eocky Mountains ; and supposing the country to be divided to-morrow to the entire satisfaction of the most unscrupulous patriot in the Union, I challenge Congress to bring my pre- diction and its power to the test by imposing the Atlantic tariff on the posts of the Pacific. . . . England and llussia, whether as friends or foes, cannot fail to control the destiny of the human race, for good or for evil, to an extent which com- paratively confines every other nation within the scanty limits of its own proper locality." This cannot now be so interesting reading to the English and to Hudson's Bay men, when Eussia has sold out wholly in the northwest of America to the United States, and England holds there only about three hundred miles of sea-coast, while the United States owns sixty-one hundred and eight. Some are unconscious of the vast area of our country, and so are in an amusing fault some- times and provincial when putting the "West" nigh at hand, and great cities and sections in it near together. In his " Famous Americans " Parton thus speaks of Webster : " He liked large things, — mountains, elms, great oaks, mighty bulls and oxen, wide fields, the ocean, the Union, and all things of mag- nitude. He liked great Eome far better than re- fined Greece, and revelled in the immense things of literature, such as ' Paradise Lost ' and the Book of Job, Burke, Dr. Johnson, and the Sixth Book of HOW LARGE IS " THE WEST " '? 17 the ^neid." Herein lies a broad hint that geog- raphy as well as law gave Webster stimulus in liis marvellous and varied defence of the American Union. He rose to the height of his great argu- ment under continental as well as constitutional inspirations. In making up great Americans much use must be made of American geography. In our vastness of realm there is much danger that the East- and the West and the North and the South will produce provincial men. 18 DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER II. SURPllISING DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. " T TOW far is it to Chicago?" Our young -L J. English friend made the inquiry when that city was suggested as convenient headquarters while he might be running up and down the country on a tour of observation. When the answer was given, " Something over a thousand miles," he was amazed ; for he was fresh from England, whose longest meridian diameter is only three hundred and sixty-five statute miles, from Berwick to St. Alban's Head, and whose narrowest measure is sixty-two, from the head of the Solway to Wandsbeck on the German Ocean. Perhaps it is expecting too much that one should know tolerably the travelled lengths and breadths in his own United States ; and indeed it would be expecting a great deal. Yet if one has completed a course of common-school or higher study, and can give a fair analysis of any one of Dickens's novels, or outline the status of the unfinished stories in the magazines, or give the prices on stocks or at the best hotels in Europe, one has a right to expect that he can locate leading cities in DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. 19 the Union within a thousand miles of their true position. When I once spoke to an intelligent friend of having been recently in Omaha, he inquired, with all the simplicity of one of Mark Twain's Innocents Abroad, " Well, did you see the Mor- mons ? " He was surprised that I had not " run out" to Salt Lake City, "just back of Omaha," to interview those peculiar Saints. My answer surprised him more, — that having seen that whole conglomerate when they constituted Nauvoo, this side the Mississippi, I did not care to go a thou- sand miles out of my way to visit Salt Lake City. "A thousand miles ! Why, I thought it was just back of Omaha ! " " It is just back, as they say out West, where there is room to say such things." His question was as if one had proposed some morning, in Boston, to run down to Fort Sumter and see the ruins, or to run up from London to Stockholm, or down to Rome, in a cheap and temporary curiosity ; for the distances in these cases are the same. Parties start from Bangor overland for San Francisco, and the most of them are surprised to learn that when at St. Louis they will be only about one third of their journey. Yet then they have travelled as far as from Washington to Teluian- tepec, air line, or from London, by water, to St. Petersburg. The completed trip is half a thousand more miles than from Loudon to Monrovia, Africa. 20 DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. Such parties may well be grateful that they were not called to the excursion in old emigrant times. The trip to Oregon in those days is suggestive of distances and discomforts too, — from the sea- board to St. Louis (about fifteen hundred miles), and thence, with the comforts of a Missouri steamer, four hundred and fifty more to Westport. Here come the overhauling and packing and starting of the families and wagons and herds for Fort Hall, thirteen hundred and twenty-three miles farther, through wild lands and wilder Indian tribes. This Fort Hall was on the Lewis Fork of the Columbia, about one hundred miles north of Salt Lake, a trading-post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and for a long time their Gibraltar against the entrance of the American traders and immigrants into Oregon. From this post, of so mucli historic interest in frontier affairs, to Van- couver, another English trading-post and fort, was eight hundred and fifty miles, and then down the Columbia to the sea ninety, — a total of more than four thousand miles. Thus hardy and noble men and women went over the continent and founded Oregon. The impression is common, and not altogether unnatural, that on the northwest coast American cities and business centres lie quite closely to- gether. Yet from Vancouver, where the Columbia is a mile wide, though at that point ninety miles from its mouth, it is six hundred miles up to Fort DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. 21 Colville ; and from San Francisco to Sitka, tlie capital of our last purchase, it is twelve liundred and ninety-six miles, — as far as from New York to Havana. It was in the autumn of 1870, — the Kansas Pacific had been opened through to Denver the summer before, — and I was passing New Fort Hays on Big Creek. The willows marked the watercourse as their line disappeared in the in- finite prairie, and the conductor advised me to take a good look at those willows, if I were pleased with woodland views, for it would be a long time before I should see more trees. We ran west to Denver, three hundred and fifty miles, without passing tree or shrub as large as a currant-bush or fair-sized switch for a needy boy. To a New Englander, where the farms appear to a Western man as snug gardens walled in, this seemed a large pasture. The clumsy buffalo-herds tumbled off right and left like the waves of a chopped sea, and timid graceful antelopes, in little bands, would run parallel to the cars, and neck and neck, for three or four miles, in their triplet leaps, and as airy and easy as thistle-down on the wind. Acres of prairie dogs would stand like kangaroos to make observations on us, dodge down through the openings in the tops of their beehive mounds, and instantly show head and neck again for a new look. As twilight approached over the grassy and rolling expanse, gangs of coyotes would settle back 22 DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. on their haunches beyond rifle range, and with stretched neck and wolfish manner howl at us. At Salina, where we spent the night, the stock- men gave us some most impressive ideas of distances in tliat immense interior. Salina, with Brookville a dozen miles away, was then the nearest and great shipping-point for live-stock from that unfenced and infinite Southwest. The estimate for Salina that season was seventy thou- sand head. The owners, purchasers, and cow- boys made that a lively night at the lonely station. We arrived in the evening, and the morning revealed the little shanty cluster of railroad buildings as a St. Helena in an unlim- ited expanse of grass. In all directions were masses of cattle, like islands outlying far to sea. Making questions, and notes too, of numbers and weights and girths and prices, I began to ask about the distances that some of the herds had been driven. Pointing to different ones with my questions, the answers came back easily and care- lessly, as if a few hundred miles in the saddle for the cow-boy were a slight matter : " Four hundred miles ; " " Six hundred and more ; " " From Beck's rancho on the Pecos, about six hundred ; " " Well, Fort Ringgold way, on the Rio Grande, nigh on to nine hundred." Amazed at these replies, I said : " Why, how far do you drive cattle here ? " " Stranger, that herd this away yonder has come a right smart thousand. Six months on the trail, DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. 23 and the Redskins touched them at a levy a head for crossing the Indian Territory." This was the nearest route, in 1870, for those ranchmen on the dim borders of American life and civilization as they started their Texan or New Mexican steers for the New York market. It was as if Webster's fat oxen were driv^en on the higliway from Franklin or INIarshfield to Chicago, and thence taken seven hundred and fifty miles by cars, that they might furnish the sirloin of the merry king who gave the name to it. From those more southern and southwestern grazing-grounds the ranchmen started their herds for the North on the tender grass of January, and kept pace with the travelling spring, and so came upon the cattle-trains at Salina in early summer. But now, with the locomotive at San Antonio, Santa F^, TuQon, and Fort Yuma, the steers are ticketed through, and find a much easier and speedier way to the slaughter. So soon following in the trail of buffalo and antelope have come compass and chain and warrantee deeds, and farms and city plots ; acres of prairie dogs have been ploughed in for so much wheat to the acre ; and planted groves break the monotonous and treeless expanse, and throw grateful shade over frolicking children, and anvils so musical of thrift, and over family altars so prophetic and insuring of " what- soever things are true, whatsoever things are hon- est, whatsoever things are just, whatsoever things 24 DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. are pure, whatsoever things are lovely, and what- soever things are of good report." The time is not far gone by when similar prairies, smaller and more broken by timber, held their primitive sway between Chicago and Cairo. When in the saddle in early days on those plains, and often without a trail, and only a compass for a guide, another horseman like myself could be seen for hours before our converging lines brought us within hail, like two ships speaking each other in mid-ocean. Pleasant memories linger still around our deer-camp on the edge, or rather in the suburbs, of Girard City. Probably it is larger now ; but then it consisted of a huge pile of crumbling brick, a roofless log-cabin, and rows of stakes running off very regularly into the prairie. The deer jumped them easily as they struck out across five denominational church-lots, the court- house grounds, and the college square. The city was peopled with the fancies of Eastern specu- lators and owners of blocks and corner lots, with now and then a living man as a spectator of prospects. In planning an easy and interesting tour into the West seven years ago, he of the Eastern sea- board would naturally and very properly wish to see three of the most interesting cities in the upper interior, — St. Louis, Chicago, and St. Paul. Yet how many would arrange for more than a thousand miles of travel in completing the triangle of the DISTANCES IX THE UNITED STATES. 25 three ? In the order named the distances by rail would be 280, 420, and 3G8 miles, — now very much less. Our railroad from Chicago to San Francisco is about twenty-tliree hundred and fifty miles, and the daily trains starting out from each terminus with full coaches indicate that the road is an American necessity. The distance traversed by it will be better understood by a European and by those Americans who travel mainly in foreign lands, and so the United States will be more intel- ligently measured if we take this road to Europe for a measuring illustration. Suppose, therefore, that we place the Chicago terminus on London as a turn-table, and sweep the road round, as the hand on the dial of a clock, and thus see where the San Francisco terminus would rest. For con- venience, an air line is assumed between its two real termini and between the illustrating ones that are about to be named. Giving it a northerly direction from London, its San Francisco terminus will rest in the extreme north of Iceland, Moving off to the right, it will extend almost to the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, and just reach St. Petersburg, opening communication between those two grand capitals in air line, as the crow flies. One third of the Black Sea will be shadowed by the moving index which, passing on, cuts its circle midway through the deserts of Barca and Sahara and enters the Atlantic among the Canary Islands. Thence, in 26 DISTANCES IN THE UNITED STATES. its home curve, taking in the Azores and two thirds of the Atlantic between London and Newfoundland, it will close its circle in northern Iceland. On this topic of distances within the dominion of the United States we introduce but one more illustration to aid the fancy in finding facts. If one will take an air line from Quoddy Head, in Lubec, the most eastern point of Maine, to tlie mouth of the Straits of San Juan de Fuca, where they empty into tlie Pacific on the southern coast of Vancouver, he will find that he is on the true air line to the most western of the Aleutian Islands. The line thus indicated measures the distance between tlie extreme eastern and western points of United States territory. Not speaking exactly as if casting the transit of Venus, tlie half-way point in this line is about two hundred miles to the west of the mouth of these straits on the Pacific coast. So far, therefore, beyond Vancouver one must go " out West " before he will be half- way over the American limits. After leaving Maine on this air line he will trespass on the Queen's dominion till he arrive at Eainy Lake, above Lake Superior, beyond which till he enter Pacific waters he will be on American soil. THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 27 CHAPTEE III. THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. " T NEED not remark to you that the flank and rear of X the United States are possessed by other powers, and formidable ones too. ... If the Spaniards on their right and Great Britain on their left, instead of throwing stumbling-blocks in their way, as they now do, should hold out lures for their trade and alliance ! When they gain strength, which Avill be sooner than most people conceive. . . . The Western States hang upon a pivot; the touch of a feather would turn them any way." Thus wrote Washington to Governor Harrison of Virginia in 1784, after he had made a tour of the border over the Alleghanies. Of course, increase of territory by the United States was indispensable, inevitable, and irresisti- ble. "To have more land "ran in English blood, and through the colonial veins into tlie body politic of the infant Eepublic. The English fathers had crowded back the Spanish, in their arrogant claims, from Virginia to Florida, and the Dutch from New York, and the French from the continent. In 1754, and at the early age of twenty-two. Colonel 28 THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. Washington planted the first British banner oil the Western waters, and in the still struggling days of the Eepublic the region beyond the Ohio of the Upper jMississippi was organized into the " County of Illinois, State of Virginia." So early the new-born Eepublic took possession where the mother country had driven out the French for quite another purpose a few years before. This inherited Saxon hunger for land showed itself signally when the colonies and their allies and the mother country met to adjust boundary lines after the Eevolution. Spain would exclude the Eepublic from the Lower Mississippi, and she drew from Franklin the sharp remark : " Spain has taken four years to consider whether she w^ould treat with us or not. Give her forty, and let us in the mean time mind our own business." In his excellent " History of the Mississippi "Val- ley," Monette says that " during the greater part of the negotiations preceding the treaty Mr. Oswald, the British commissioner, persisted in his demands that the Ohio Eiver should form the northwestern boundary of the United States ; and it v/as only after every effort had failed to move Mr. Adams and Mr. Jay that he consented to adopt the present boundary through the middle of the Great Lakes." ^ As conditions of peace that 1 History of the Discovery and Settlement of the Valley of the Mississippi. By John W. Monette, M.D. In two vol- umes. Vol. ii. pp. 212, 213. THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 29 could not be departed from, Franklin named tlie Great Lakes and the Mississippi as boundaries, and in reply to the diplomatic Vergennes, who was urging the demands of Spain, Jay said : " We shall be content with no boundaries short of the Missis- sippi." At times when Oswald the Scotchman so insisted that the boundary should be the watershed that separates the streams for the Atlantic from those for the lakes and the great valley, it did seem as if they might adjourn the dispute to a second Yorktown. Of course such a people, when their new gov- ernment was tolerably consolidated, would find increase of territory not only desirable but indis- pensable, especially if adjoining lands were lying in a wild and crude state. The temptation and necessity and offer were not long in coming. The United States of 1783 owned no acre of land on the Gulf of Mexico or beyond the Mississippi, nor a rood on the entire eastern bank of the Mississippi below latitude thirty-one, near the mouth of Eed Eiver, After the fatal fall of France in North America on the Plains of Abraham, she secretly conveyed to Spain the western half of the great valley, that it might not fall into English hands — as the eastern half did and very much other territory — at the coming council table. Overrun by explorers, cavaliers, and marauders, and with few settlements and a starve- ling development, it furnished a poor national 30 THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. neighbor, and one that might become troublesome. For a working hand and a fostering government great possibilities lay beyond that river. In 1800 that ancient Louisiana was reconveyed to France, and it was a great ambition with Napoleon to plant there an American-French em- ]jire. A code of government was drafted, officers appointed, and an army of twenty-five thousand held in readiness to convey the whole to that valley. But Europe was too stormy and English fleets were too many ; so Napoleon did not dare the venture, and sold the magnificent property to the United States, the conveyance being in 1803. Very much of what we now call " out West " lies in that first and imperial real-estate invest- ment of our fathers ; or, as Napoleon said to Liv- ingstone, the American minister : " A magnificent bargain ; an empire for a mere trifle." The " trifle " was fifteen million dollars, and assumption by the United States of the claims of American citizens for French spoliations not to exceed twenty mil- lion francs. The franc value was fixed at five livres and eight sous to the dollar. Up to June 30, 1880, the United States had paid for those spoliations, $3,738,268.98. That Louisiana Pur- chase exceeded the original area of the Eepublic by forty-five States like Massachusetts, if we con- cede that it extended to the Pacific, according to Donaldson's " Public Domain." Beginning on the Mississippi, the boundary ran up the Eed Piiver THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 31 from its mouth to what is now the southwestern corner of the Indian Territory, thence due north to the Arkansas and up to its head, and then be- yond to latitude forty-two, and on that line to the Pacific, following the Pacific coast to latitude forty-nine, and on that parallel eastward to the Lake of the Woods, and thence to the head of the Mississippi, and down that river to the starting- point.i It will be noted that this embraced all that the Government owned west of that river prior to the acquisition of Texas, with the excep- tion of the southern half of Louisiana. The origi- nal domain of the Eepublic was equal to one hundred and two States as large as Massachusetts. This addition was equal to one hundred and forty- seven, or forty-five more than the original. The treaty of sale was signed by the French Commissioners April 30, 1803 ; and by a special Congress convened by Jefferson the treaty was ratified October 19, 1803, and the papers of ratifi- cation were exchanged October 21. As yet the territory had not been formally reconveyed by Spain to France, and this was done before the City Hall in New Orleans on the last day of the November following. The Spanish flag was then slowly lowered, imder a salute of artillery, and the French flag was run up in the same way. The French now held again, and for twenty ^ Later and eminent authorities limit the Louisiana Purchase on the West by the Rocky Mountains. See note, page 32. 32 THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. days, this " empire." JNIeanwhile American troops arrived, and on the 20th of December the tri- colored flag of France slowly descended, meeting midway the rising Stars and Stripes. Salvos of ar- tillery and shouts of the people were followed by the band with " Hail Columbia," and so the young Eepublic with that music started for the Pacific. From the Louisiana Purchase we have all of Alabama west of the Perdido and on tlie Gulf below 31° north ; all of Mississippi west of Ala- bama, on Louisiana and the Gulf, south of 31° north ; Louisiana ; Arkansas ; Missouri ; Kansas, all but the southwest corner ; Iowa ; Minnesota, all of it west of the Mississippi ; Nebraska ; all of Colorado east of the Eocky Mountains and north of the Arkansas River ; Oregon ; and the Territo- ries Dakota, Montana, Idaho, Washington, Wyo- ming, — excepting a portion in the southern part, — and the Indian Territory.^ ^ As to the boundaries and area of the Louisiana Purchase, I have followed "The Ninth Census," by Francis A. Walker, and "The Public Domain," by Thomas Donaldson. In the Oregon controversy with Great Britain the United States based her claim in part on the Louisiana Purchase. (Oregon : the Strug- gle for Possession. By William Barrows. Chaps, xxi. xxii., and note in the fourth edition, page 211.) Greenhow states quite fully the opposite opinion, that the Louisiana of France and of Spain and of the United States Purchase did not extend to the Pacific. (The History of Oregon and California. By Kobert Greenhow. 1846. Chap. xiii. ) It is still a question sub lite among good scholars. Decision either Avay will not vary the statement of areas above given for the national domain. . THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 33 The next addition to the domain of the Union was Florida, — an area of seven States like Mas- sachusetts, — and it was made not only in the interests of the Kepublic, but of humanity, civil- ization, and Christianity. From its earliest his- tory it had been a field of international jealousy, struggle, and blood. The Spanish, French, Eng- lish, and Indians had made it a raiding-ground for plunder, conquest, and revenge. It was in miser- able condition, undeveloping, decivilizing, and bar- barous ; a prey to Indians, negroes, and Sjianiards, and subject to the marauding invasions of Euglish and American adventurers till it came into the Union by the treaty of Feb. 22, 1819. Spain was allowed five millions of purchase-money, but was charged the same amount for Spanish spoliations on American commerce. In this assumption of Florida one of those mer- cies was shown which an established and fostering government is able to bestow on a people and re- gion struggling through a natural and crude state into a civilized one. From 1512, when Ponce de Leon, as the first European, began with cavaliers and priests to flounder through its everglades and astonish and anger its simple natives, that region was without government or development or much increase of population. It is true, wdien her flag was lowered at St. Augustine for the American, it had floated over that old city since 1565, with intervals of omission ; and yet, so near the close 3 34 THE SIX GKOWTIIS OF THE UNITED STATES. of two hundred and fifty years, but little more land was occupied tLan at the beginning. The interior was as wild as ever, and the total Euro- pean jiopulalion was only six or seven thousand. Elsewhere and at times it had sported English and French colors, as well as the nameless banners of invaders from the colonies and States on the north. Generals Gaines and Jackson, for the American side, mingled at last in the fray where three otlier nations kept up discord and uncertainty ; and finally the battle was closed by a purchase of tlie field, and so the fruits of peace came under cultivation. The case of Texas did not vary much from that of Florida in its civil and developing condition. It was anotlier unknown section of the N"ew World overrun by discoverers, invaders, and free- booters. For long generations property, person, and conscience had but faint recognition, and its government was despotic, insurrectionary, or revo- lutionary, as suited the whim of the place and the hour. The home government of Mexico was more nominal than real over distant Texas, and this border territory of New Spain waited long in the dawn of the coming day from the North. Her independent entrance into the Amer- ican Union of States was Dec. 29, 1845 ; and her formal and full one by the consent of INfex- ico was in the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Feb. 2, 1848, A»d so the equivalent of thirty- THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE LWITED STATES 35 four States as large as Massaeluisctts enlarged the Union. The admission of Texas into the American Union was a case of mutual favor, and in the long re- sults as seen so far, and in the failure of some provincial schemes then warm and divisive, the consequences have assumed a national and most gratifying magnitude. It was very much to con- fer law and order on so extensive a region and nat- urally so rich in the staples that are the basis of national wealth ; and into wluit a civil chaos our act of annexation introduced government may be inferred from one fact. At the date of admission it was an open question whether Texas ought not to have been included in the Florida treaty of 1819 as a part of the French territory of Louisiana, and some of our statesmen — as Benton — criticised others — as Adams and Calhoun, parties to the negotiation of the Florida treaty — for not then includintr Texas on the American side as against Mexican claims. In so rude a condition and so little removed was that region then from primi- tive nature, that even its nationality was a mat- ter of doubt among diplomatists and statesmen, although it assumed independence of Mexico in 1835, and was recognized by the United States in 1837. To these inorganic elements additions had been made by emigrants from the States, the loss of many of whom on the one side of the boundary and gain on the otlier were equally 36 THE SIX GKOWTIIS OF THE UNITED STATES. equivocal. Texas was admitted to the American Union in 18-i5. The addition of California and New Mexico to the domain of the United States was but an elon- gation and termination of the Texan scheme. In the logic of war, and especially with the irre- pressible American people on the one side and the Mexican on the other, the addition was a result inevitable, and indeed foreordained. The general condition of things, as found in Louisi- ana and in Florida and Texas, was inviting and tempting in those two Mexican States, California and New Mexico. They were rich in natural resources, sparsely peopled, low in civilization, poorly developed, and under the changing shadows of a distant and mostly nominal government. In the acquisition there was thrown on the American people and Government this expanse of wild border land, whose scattered inhabitants knew civil law mostly as a law of force, which each man carried with him somewhat as in the stirrup. The blood was three fourths native and prehistoric Mexican or Aztec, tinged with In- dian, and with European, direct by immigration or through the border American. Much of this blood, and the more energetic portion of it, was half-breed, coming indifferently from somewhere. The addition to the Union of such an expanse of territory, and so rich naturally, with the Spanish civilization of the seventeenth century creeping THE SIX GUOWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 37 over it, presented a new and very serious problem to the old United States. How much of tlie seventeenth century, as Old Spain exported it to New Spain, could we cany on one fourth of the entire country ? How could we digest and assimi- late so much crude material in wealtli and mixed population and medieeval society ? Possessing only vaguely the rudiments of law, social life, Chris- tianity, and education, how long a time would be needed for the spelling-book and New Testament and marriage ceremony to prepare this new land for the ballot and jury box of our popular govern- ment ? It might be worthy of an investigation by our benevolent societies to ascertain which process has been the more successful for the first twenty- five years within our new border, — the American- izing or the Mexicanizing. In such an investi- gation persons and papers could not be used to any great extent, since our benevolent energies have worked in other directions and filed reports on other fields. Business could report, if benevo- lent education cannot; and the Government can tell how many more Indians it lias shot than the Church has converted. The American adminis- tration of Christianity for the world is preparing material for some amazing and humiliating chap- ters of history on the home field, under the sub- heads of Indian, African, and Mexican. Following the acquisition of California and New Mexico in the treaty of 1848, there came into the 38 TilK SIX GUOWTIIS OF THE UNITED STATES. national aiul public domain additional territory from Mexico by what is called the Gadsden Pur- chase. This consisted of 45,535 square miles, — equal to five States like Massachusetts, — now constituting the southern portions of New Mexico and Arizona. The treaty was made in 1853. The reasons for the purchase are not made perfectly obvious by the official papers. In " The Public Domain " Donaldson says : " This purchase was for the purpose of more correctly defining and making a more regular line and certain boundary between the United States and Mexico." Forty- five thousand square miles would seem to be more than ample for correcting, straightening, and de- fining a boundary of five hundred miles, more or less. However, after this was all done by ten millions of purchase-money, — " to strengthen and more firmly maintain the peace which happily prevails between the two Eepublics," — exception- ally rich mines, even for Mexico, were said to be found in ample measure on the United States side of the corrected and peaceful line. " si angxilus ille Proxiinus accedat qui nunc deformat agelluui." The last addition, and the sixth, that has been made to the territory of the United States was Alaska. The treaty of purchase was concluded March 30, 1867, ratified May 28, and the terri- tory was formally conveyed to the United States THE SIX GROWTHS OF THE UNITED STATES. 39 October 18 of the same year. The price paid was $7,200,000, and the area bought was 577,390 square miles, being a little less than two cents for an acre. In the Louisiana Purchase the cost was a little less than three cents for an acre. The area equals seventy-one States like Massachusetts. Mr. Secretary Seward negotiated the purchase, and at a public dinner given when he retired to private life he remarked that he regarded the act as the most important in his official life, and he added, " But it may take two generations before the purchase is appreciated." Of its entire area the islands are estimated to make about thirty-one thousand square miles, and their water edge, with the shores of the mainland and bays, aggregates a coast line of about twenty- five thousand miles, — the circumference of the earth. This is by estimation and not measure- ment, as the Coast Survey of the Government has not yet run out and reported the shore indentations of the Alaskan purchase. As to the natural and staple products of Alaska, it can supply ice for the universal Pacific trade. It may, however, sound strange to say that it must be harvested inland mainly, since the aver- age cold of the shore will not uniformly insure a crop. For the last forty-five years the mercury has been below zero only four times at Sitka, and not once under four below. Immense rains mark the winter, sometimes to the amount of eighty-one 40 THE SIX GlIOWTIIS OF THE UNITED STATES. inches a year, and tlie spring opens so early that at Sitka the wikl gooseberry has been found in blos- som on the 17th of March. The winter average zero line leaves the continent at Behring's Strait, and in the neighborhood of the Aleutian Mountains and on the southwest coast the mercury rarely goes down to zero. The country is ample in good timber for the navies of the world, and hemlock, cedar, and the yellow pine extend over thousands of miles. Coal, iron, and copper are found in rich deposits, and on the Columbian edge of the ter- ritory the English are reported as taking out a million of gold annually. And what will be more, by and by, for the tourists from the hot zone, Alaska has three hundred moving glaciers and ice-fields. But it is too early to speak confidently on the products of the interior. When the Yu- kon Valley, navigable fifteen hundred miles by steam, has been as w^ell examined as the Colorado, and when the whole territory is as well described as Colorado is by Hayden's splendid Geological and Geographical Atlas of it in twenty maps, Seward's two generations will probably have gone by in one, and then the wisdom of his purchase will be verified and confirmed. At present we can content ourselves with the fact that for international commerce its fishing- grounds are not surpassed for area, variety, and quality in the world ; while its seal-fisheries, con- fined to two or three of its fifty-five islands over THE SIX GKOWTIIS OF THE UNITED STATES. 41 tlireu miles long, are paying four per cent on the cost, and have already paid off three million dol- lars of the principal. It is to be regretted that we have not kept up the civilizing institutions that the Kussiau Gov- ernment had established among the sixty thousand natives, but iiave allowed them to fail. Should it not niodify our Protestant criticism of the Greek Church, that they carry their form of Christianity and the school with their national flag ? I have referred to the humiliating chapters that must by and by go into the history of our popular admin- istration of Christianity under the subheads of Indian, African, and Mexican. It is not too late to prevent the addition of an Alaskan. Of the quality of the Alaskans — including under that term the natives of both the mainland and the islands — Hon. A'incent Colyer, special Indian commissioner to that Territory, says: "I do not hesitate to say that if three fourths of them were landed in New York as coming from Europe, they would be selected as among the most intelligent of the many worthy immigrants who daily arrive at that port." 42 GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. CHAPTER IV. GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. WHEN the Revolution was accomplished, the occupied territory of the thirteen Colonies constituted an Atlantic belt about nine hundred miles long, and of an average breadth of one hun- dred miles. Tliey were, in proportion to the magni- tude of the whole continent, but a small area, only as a civil fringe on its eastern shore, and some thought they hung quite as loosely as the sea-weed. The nations of Europe were looking to see them tossed asunder by some of those great tidal waves of society which had torn adrift and swamped all preceding republics. Daring men, true to the Re- public, had passed the watershed and built tlieir rough cabins on the Ohio and its head-streams, and on some of the rivers of Kentucky. Here and there in the Great Valley the French trapper and trader and emissary, without a country or a home, lingered and wandered between the lost Canadas and the sold Louisiana. The Spanish hunters and explorers and cavaliers, who a half-century before had penetrated from Santa Fe to tlie Arkansas and Missouri and Mississippi, were looking with a GROWTH IN SF.TTLE.MEXTS. 43 jealous eye on these intrusions of the English colonists. As they had come up into New INIexico ninety years before Jamestown was settled, and had their five hundred academies and training schools in New Spain when the Pilgrims landed, and owned both banks of the Mississippi as far up as the present northern boundary of Louisiana, — on the east near the mouth of Ked Eiver, — they were a willing and formidable obstacle to the westward growth of the young and seaboard Ee- public. Moreover, Spain occupied and defended both banks of the Mississippi below the Ohio, though much in violation of treaty, and with well- arranged annoyances exacted duties on all goods passing down the river. This was felt the more severely since settlements were advancing in a remarkable manner ; and indeed, as Monette says, " The whole country appeared in motion for the Mississippi." In a preceding chapter the growth of the United States in territory has been outlined under its six additions, by which the original area has been increased about five-fold. In this chapter it is proposed to illustrate by specific local growths how the population during the same time has been increased fully twelve-fold, and the area of settlement in vastly greater proportions. The increase of settlements in the wilds of America had been stimulated by the Crown, and was well under way when the era of independence 44 GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. opened. In 1749 there was a royal grant to the fust Ohio company of five hiuuh'ecl thousand acres, which afterward came mostly into the Dinwiddie and Washington families, and finally into the latter. This tract lay between the Monongahela and the Kenawha, and the company became obli- gated to locate on it one hundred immigrant families within seven years. Five years later, and after Braddock's defeat, the Crown ordered a grant of lands about the Ohio to those wishing to settle there, and in quantities of not more than one thousand acres to a person, in order to re- possess the country and expel the French. Grants were made on the head-waters of the Kentucky, the Cumberland, Clinch, Ilolston, and elsewhere in eastern Kentucky and Tennessee. Thus under the royal regime the passion for wild laud and a farther frontier and daring exposure in the wilder- ness and among Indians was cultivated and grati- fied, and the young Eepublic inherited it. As independence became more certain wdiile the painful years of the Eevolution wore away, Vir- ginia, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York began to think more definitely of their charter claims to the wild country lying between the Ohio, Mississii^pi, and the Lakes. In mature judgment and with much patriotism the State rights were finally yielded, and these land claims, with certain reservations, were made over to the United States for the conmion good. But the reservations were GROWTH I\ SETTLEMENTS. 45 ])ut on the market by the individual States and by the United. States. Here, tlierefore, were five parties in the American land market offering bor- der hemes to all and any daring adventurers. Virginia, with much foresight, moved off in schemes of emigration. One of her laws " allowed to each emigrant as a settlement right four hun- dred acres of land, besides a preference right to one thousand more acres contiguous. The boundary lines between any contiguous settlement rights were generally adjusted amicably by the parties in- erested, before actual survey was made. In these adjustments they were guided chiefly by the ridges or watercourses, or some other natural boundary. In this manner much of the country of western Pennsylvania and Virginia was parcelled out among settlers, and subsequently nearly all the country between the Muskingum and tlie Ohio on the east."^ Wliat Virginia retained lay between the Scioto and the Little Miami, and was called the Virginia Military District. The Connecticut Reserve was bounded on the north by Lake Erie, and was about one hundred and twenty by sixty- eight miles in extent. The Government also set apart a large tract on the east side of the Scioto to liquidate the claims of Eevolutionary soldiers, which was called the United States Military Dis- trict. These lands were offered in large quantities for fifty cents an acre, more or less, payable in 1 Monette's History of the Mississippi Valle)-, vol. ii. p. 9. 4G GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. Government certificates if tlie lands were purchased of the United States. The Western-land fever ran high in those days, — perhaps as high as it ever has in later and speculative days. " Public attention in the interior," says Monette, " notwithstanding occasional instances of Indian hostilities, seemed wholly engrossed in the acquisition of land, as if it were the only subject of interest, the only great business of life." Of course the large grants obtained were de- signed for speculative purposes, and various ex- pedients were used to effect sales and induce immigration ; and thus the border settlements were carried farther and farther west. Judge John Cleaves Symmes, of New Jersey, bought of the United States six hundred thousand acres between the Great and Little Miami, at sixty cents an acre, payable in the military warrants and other paper of the Government. This tract was sold in divisions, and again resold in small parcels, and so came into the possession of actual settlers. Major Benjamin Stiles purchased ten thousand acres of this Symmes tract, and so tempted immigration and extended the settled frontier. The cases cited are sufficient to illus- trate the passion and practice of those earlier days in regard to emigration. This fever for wild land, now so prevalent and especially so contagious along all the new railroads into wild country, is sometimes regarded as a GIIOWTH IX SETTLEMENTS. 47 modern epidemic; wliile it is really as old as the Government, and three quarters of a century ago was carrying off as many, in proportion to tlie entire population, as are carried off to-day. More- over, the front of this crude civilization then pressed westward against most adverse circumstances. It was not nntil 1784 that a regular stage was run between Boston and Hartford. Mail service be- tween the leading cities was rare, irregular, and ex- pensive, and of the nature of an express. Charges for single letters from Boston to New York were sometimes very high ; the first mail line from Portsmouth to Savannah was opened in 1786, and in 1790 there were only seventy-four post- offices in the entire United States. The original expresses in America, — for per- sons, not packages, — the public stages, were slow in opening their lines, and so kept emigration in waiting. At the same time the question of mili- tary roads and national highways was engaging the attention of the General Government; and as time and enterprise glided along into the first quarter of the present century, this became a warm question. In its discussion the conservative East and the pro- gressive West began to show the pleasant rivalry that has since become a constant element in na- tional politics. Especially were real estate and tide- water interests in tlie old thirteen States fearful lest a broad and wild frontier, and at low rates, should depress the land market, and an interior 48 GKOWTll IN SETTLEMENTS. river commerce lesson the foreign trade. Ocean trade and travel and benevolence were inclined to go together into foreign lands ; while the nation was led by a popular impulse to a westward move- ment, and an interior growth, and an emigrating centre that would not wait for auxiliary legislation or be obedient to what was thwarting. The East was slow in learning what Washington said as early as 1784, after returning from the country beyond the Alleghanies : " Smooth the road and make easy the way for them, and tlieu see what an influx of articles will be poured upon us, how amazingly our exports will be increased, and how amply we shall be compensated for any trouble and expense we may encounter to effect it."^ Like other Western pioneers, Washington had little in response but rebuff, and men continued to emi- grate much after the manner of Al^raham and Ja- cob, until Oct. 26, 1825, when " Clinton's Ditch " was formally opened, and the first boat went through from Albany to Lake Erie, — ninety- nine years after its general route had been re- commended by Cadwallader Golden, surveyor general for the Colony. New England had too much land of its own on the market to favor actively tliis westward move- ment. The Bay State was holding much of tlie wild land in the Province of Maine, and was anxious to sell and settle it. By a lottery scheme ^ Letter to Govei'iior H.iri'ison, 1784. GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. 49 it put a large number of townships on the public, hoping that those who drew a prize would immi- grate to it, and so colonies be founded. The plan failed to a large extent. Those who obtained land declined to take titles, or were unwilling to occupy, and lottery land gorged the market. When, therefore, the Rev. Dr. Cutler was nego- tiating with Congress on tlie purchase for the second Ohio company, he met with much oppo- sition, and says of the delegates from Massachu- setts : " I thought they would not be very warm advocates in my favor . . . when she is forming the plan of settling the Eastern country ; . . . and I dare not trust myself with any of tlie New York delegates with whom I am acquainted, because that Government is wisely inviting the Eastern people to settle in that State." ^ With such home interests in the old States, Western enterprise gained but little Government patronage either from Congress or the State legis- latures, and it was left to more private and indi- vidual hands. This was well in the end, for it left these Western trails to be opened by men of will and force and energy who did not need State aid, and could safely fall back on themselves to see their purposes carried out. The men who blazed the forest trees for the bridle path and found the best ford with their own feet were men of sterling worth, and elect of tlie times, and did 1 Walker's History of Athens County, OMo, pp. 38, 39. 4 50 GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. not leave their superiors behind them. Sacrifice of old homes, opposition, and hardships secured their numbers of first quality. He who has not energy and enterprise enough to be an emigrant M'ould make but an indifferent colonist ; and it is well for the country that such continue now in the comforts and luxuries of the old East, and enjoy being nursed by institutions that their pioneer fathers planted. Much of the marvel of frontier growth disappears when the superior character of the persons who immigrated to those new centres comes to be understood. Conservative Eastern men in comfortable home- steads among ancestral elms, with little thought of planting trees and opening fountains for the coming generations, as their ancestors did for them, call these pioneers visionary men. Better call them men of vision. They saw farther, as they saw more, tlian those who preferred old trees and wells and acres. Another eleventh chapter of Hebrews on the secular side might be written, headed by such names as Boone, Kenton, Harrod, Putnam, and George Rogers Clarke. Those and their kind made bridle paths into the West, and planted block-houses and fenced towns and cities and States, while their brethren tarried to plant corn in the pilgrim fields of Virginia and New England. Those pioneers "all died in faith, not having received the promises, but having seen them afar off, and were persuaded of them, and GKOWTII IN SETTLEMENTS. ol embraced them." And they also had cruel iiiock- ings and scourgings and bonds and imprisonments; and were stoned and sawn asunder and slain with the tomahawk ; and wandered about destitute, al- fiicted, and tormented. They were men of great foreknowledge in their dim border-land, because they were men of immense foreordination. An in- cident here, with its many features, will be as good as a chapter to illustrate the points now asserted. In 1782, while the struggle on the east of the Alleghanies between the Colonies and the Crown weakened toward the treaty of peace in the year following, the English with their Indian allies made it more desperate and bloody west of the mountains. The sorrowful disaster at Blue Licks had moved General Clarke to a campaign for the relief of the border settlers in the region of the coming Cincinnati. His work was well done, as al- ways with him, from whom a word was enough for his splendid volunteers from frontier cabins. On their triumphant return, the dying McCracken, a gallant captain, was borne along on his litter toward his rude home. Wlieu they ascended the crest of hills which now overlooks Cincinnati, his eyes, growing dim, took in a grand panorama. The Lick- ing Valley opened up toward Cumberland Gap, the Kentucky hills showed a magnificent amphi- theatre, and the beautiful Ohio moved majestically across the enchanting landscape. The view to the dying man became as an inspired vision and ran 52 GROWTH IN SETTLEMENTS. into prophecy; and lie asked his comrades to make a halt and gather about him. When the glitter- ing bayonets were quieted, and the borderers had patted their horses into restfulness, he took solemn promise of his companions in arms that fifty years from that day so many of them as survived and could do it should re-gather on that spot and make a second view of the landscape. The first dwell- ing-house of Cincinnati, the log-cabin of General Clark, was then two years old. When the 4th of November, 1832, arrived, the survivors of fifty years and of so many Indian skirmishes kept their promise to their dying captain. What a reality in the place of his vision ! The half-century had caught up with what he saw. If now we make the time a round century, and stand in 1882 where that border soldiery gathered sadly around the litter and its dying man, we shall be better prepared to pay a just tribute to the men who have gone West and have made the United States out of the thir- teen Colonies. ANCIENT CHICAGO. CHAPTER V. ANCIENT CHICAGO.^ AND not yet fifty years old ! The title of tliis chapter must seem jocose to a foreigner. It is very well for Layard or Eawlinson to write of ancient Nineveh, or for some Old Mortality to work up the Roman Chester of England or London Town or Santa Fe or Boston Town. The relics and skeletons, dust, cobwebs, and broken slumbers make very entertaining reading, with no violence to our respect for chronology or denial of our notions about antiquity. We rise up before the hoary head of those old human centres. But this Chicago is an affair of last week with an anti- quary, — the growth of some stray seed from Jo- nah's gourd. The persons are alive, and yet have business in them, who attended the meeting in 1833 for incorporating this town, and saw the city charter for Chicago granted in 1837 by the Illinois legislature. They can stand yet in the doorways of their memories, if not of their original log- cabins, and correct the proof-sheets of this chapter on Ancient Chicago. 1 Magazine of American History, Ajiril, 1885. 54 ANCIENT CHICAGO. With a little free play backward and forward we propose to keep beyond those two dates of incorporation in this historical study.^ This volume is in no sense offered as a history, but only a carefully selected collection of illustra- tions of a marvellous national growth. For this purpose thirteen topics are taken to sample the general and magnificent movement. To set forth the rise and growth of cities, Chicago is selected. It is beyond all parallel in the founding and developing of the cities of the world. Inferior ones have been established — as Alexandria, Con- stantinople, and St. Petersburg — by the will of sovereigns ; but Chicago is due to the personal will of a sovereign people combining voluntarily their individual interests. The surprise over its growth would be much enhanced if we could set it forth solitary for exhibition ; but in the same historical picture a score of others take their place of a hun- dred thousand population and more each, whicli have sprung up in a similar way. Nor has this city ever made such great increase in brief periods as some later and eminent cities. In the first five years after the census of 1880 Minneapolis and 1 Since this article appeared in the " Magazine of American History," in April, 18S5, the first volume of a valuable History of Chicago, to be published in three volumes, has come to hand. With its aid this article has been revised, and credit has been given in the cases of new information. The work of Mr. Andreas is eminently elaborate, and must have cost much patient, painful, and expensive research. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 55 St. Paul almost trebled their population, going to about 125,000 and 112,000 each. Moreover, we are still building Chicagoes in tlie West. The United States is not driven to the defence of the lioness, — Unum, sed leoneni; she is muciparous in her progeny of cities. Their number and growth can be appreciated only by frequent tours to the borders. Chicago is selected and set forth in commonplace details to illustrate the every-day work which is now going on in our new country. So broad has been the ground-plan of our structure, and necessarily so far apart the work- men, and each so intent on his own, that we hear and know but little of all this national upbuilding. No doubt some force must be recognized in what is said of the demonstrative quality of the Ameri- cans as they have been coming up to the front in i\\Q procession of the nations. Considering, how- ever, the work accomplished in these one hundred years the silence has been almost sublime. A decennial census, with its unrhetorical, cold col- umns of figures, has been the jDrincipal speaker for America. "Like some tall palm the mystic fabric sprung : Majestic silence ! " When Marquette, in his Christian mission, lay ill in his cabin, at the Portage de Chicagau and mouth of the Calumet, in the winter of 1674-75, the fur traders came to his relief. They were 56 ANCIENT CHICAGO. usually in advance of the explorer and the priest, and they early opened what in railroad parlance is now called the " Chicagou route" between Canada and Louisiana. It was in 1718 when Governor Keith of Pennsylvania sent out James Logan to explore for routes westward to the Mississippi ; and of one line he reports thus: "From Lake Huron they pass by the Strait of Michilimakina four leagues, being two in breadth, and of a great depth, to the Lake Illinoise ; thence one hundred and fifty leagues to Fort Miamis, situated at the mouth of the River Chicagou. This port is not regularly garrisoned." Of the history of this fort there are no extant records yet found, and at the council for the treaty of Greenville, 1795, no Indian could give informa- tion concerning its origin.^ In 1773 one William Murray, an Englishman, residing at Kaskaskia, then so eminent, held a council there with the chiefs of the Illinois tribe, and purchased of them two immense tracts of land. One of these tracts embraced the most of the grand delta between the Illinois and the Mississippi, with a very Lirge area farther north, and had substan- tially these boundaries — quite generous, consid- ering the price : from the mouth of the Illinois and up it " to Chicagou or Garlick Creek," about two hundred and seventy-five miles ; thence north- erly "to a great mountain to the northward of the 1 Andreas, vol. i. p. 79. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 57 White Buffalo plain," about two hundred and eighty miles ; and thence direct to the place of be- ginning, about one hundred and fifty miles. The outline of the other tract is not at hand. For the two tracts INIurray says that the purchase was made "to the entire satisfaction of the Indians, in consideration of the sum of five shillings to them in hand paid," together with some goods and mer- chandise. Before the contract was consummated other Englishmen united with him under the title of " the Illinois Land Company." The whole affair carries a very modern air, especially with that addi- tion of " other Englishmen," and illustrates some of the broader processes of to-day in civilizing and Americanizing the Indians. But five years later Gen. George Rogers Clark put that magnificent quadrant between the Ohio and the Mississippi under the American flag, and so swept the acres and Indians of IMurray, with his English associates, into the young Union. In 1781 the Company pressed their claims for ratification by Congress, and the Senate entered this opinion in the words of the committee, which became a precedent : " In the opinion of the conmiittee deeds obtained by private persons from the Indians, without any antecedent authority or subsequent information from the Government, could not vest in the gran- tees mentioned in such deed a title to the lands therein described." These primitive " Indian Con- tractors " worked their " ring " around Congress 58 ANCIENT CHICAGO. until 1707, and then abandoned their project for civilizing the North i^merican Indian. But they made another point in history for Ancient Cbicago.i The earliest trace of any occupant at Chicago i.s that of Guarie, a Frenchman, tlie corn-hills of whose cabin patch were traceable in 1818, though overgrown with grass. He located there prior to 1778, and had his hut on the river-bank, near where Fulton Street now meets it.^ This was the year in which General Clark, under the sovereign instruction of Virginia, and with a commission signed by Patrick Henry, Governor, conquered from the English the region between the Ohio, the Great Lakes, and the Mississippi. In October of that year Virginia erected the same into the "County of Illinois in the State of Vir- ginia." Then tlie laws of the Old Dominion were as sacred at the mouth of the Chicago as at the mouth of the Potomac, and Chicago, equally with Eichmond, was in Virginia. But we have yet to find the first settler in Chicago, though the whole region is occupied by the Pottawatomies. After the treaty of Eyswick, 1697, which divided Hayti and gave the eastern shore to Spain, the colony there languished. The French negroes in it, many of whom were free, ^ Andreas, vol. i. pp. 69, 70. ^ The Discovery and Conquest of the Northwest. By Paifus Blauchard. ANCIKNT CHICAGO. 5.9 educated in France, wealthy, but denied political privileges, grew uneasy, and crossed over to the Louisiana, where they were welcomed by the French and became readily assimilated to the Indians. One of these made his home at Chicafjo, amono- the Pottawatomies, in 1779, and remained there till 1796. His name was Baptiste Point de Saible. He was " a handsome negro, well educated, and settled at Eschikagou, but much in the French interest." So runs the old record of Colonel De Peyster, then (1779) British commander at Macki- naw. Another record says : " At a very early pe- riod there was a negro lived there, named Baptiste Point de Saible. My brother, Perrish Grignon, visited Chicago about 1794, and told me that Point de Saible was a large man ; that he had a commission for some office, but for what particular office, or from what government, I cannot now recollect. He was a trader, pretty wealthy, and drank freely." " So far as yet appears, De Saible was the sole settler of Chicago for seventeen years, when he sold his cabin and other local interests to Le Mai, a French trader. Other fur traders were there meanwhile, but only transient ; for Burnett, trading on the Kankakee in 1790-91, says: "The Potta- watomies at Chicago have killed a Frenchman about twenty days ago. They say there is plenty 1 "Wisconsin Historical Society Collections, vol. iii. p. 292. 60 ANCIENT CHICAGO. of Frenchmen." ^ As a dwelling-place, therefore, with historic germs, this cabin is the embryo of Chicago, and her history proper dates from it. Yet only in his last years there was Baptiste on ground fully and absolutely owned by the United States ; for the Indian title was not extinguished till the treaty of Greenville, 1795, From the opening of the French war, 1754, the northwestern fron- tier liad been sorely tried and wasted by Indian wars. When General Wayne assumed command over that district, he moved with so much rapidity and force as to gain from the Indians a name translated The Tempest, or Big Wind ; they prob- ably meant Cyclone. He soon bore down all op- position and brought twelve of tlie subdued tribes to the council of Fort Greenville, by the treaty of which an immense region west of the Ohio and south of the Lakes was ceded, as well as a large square embracing each of the military posts, not included in the general cession. This treaty ex- tino;uished the Indian title to Chicago and its environs by these words : " One piece of land six miles square, at the mouth of the Chekajo River emptying into the southwest end of Lake Michi- gan." Soon after that region came into American hands by the treaty of Greenville there were antici- pations and rumors of a garrison at Chicago ; and an energetic and adventurous trader thus writes to a Mr. Porthier, a merchant at Mackinaw: — ^ Chicago Antiquities, p. 57. AN'CIENT CHICAGO. 61 " I have reason to expect that they [the garrison] will be over there this fall; and should it be the case, and as I have a house there already and a promise of assistance from headquarters, I will have occasion for a good deal of liquors and some other articles for that post. Therefore, should there be a garrison at Chicago this fall 1 will write for an addition of articles to my order." The garrison was not long in coming, and no doubt "a good deal of liquors" soon followed. In 1803, Capt. John Whistler, of the army at De- troit, was ordered to build and occupy a post at Chicago. From the mouth of the St. Joseph the officers, father and son, with their wives, came down the lake in a row-boat, and so the first two white women entered Chicago. The settlement then consisted of four traders' cabins, the occu- pants of which were Canadian French, with their Indian wives. The post was named Fort Dear- born, in honor of Gen. Henry Dearborn, then Sec- retary of War. The year following, tlie first white family moved into Chicago. This w^as John Kinzie, wife, and infant sou, John H., from the vicinity of Niles, Michigan. He bought of Le Mai the old cabin of De Saible, which he enlarged and improved, aud for many years it was the only dwelling of white men in that settlement of now three quar- ters of a million of people. He was properly 62 ANCIENT CHICAGO. called the Father of Chicago, and yet lie died as recently as 18:^8 ; nor as a city father did he live long enough to see great results. Tlu-ee years be- fore he died tlie village consisted of only fourteen houses, — all log-cabins, — with a total town tax of $90.47. The ilrst frame building for business was not built till he had been gone four years. When Fort Dearborn was built, the Government also established under its guns an Indian Agency and trading-house for the four nearest tribes, with the purpose that all business between them and the United States, and questions of trouble between the Indians and other parties, might there be peaceably and justly disposed of. It was also the plan of the Government to draw, through such agencies, the Indian trade under its own control, and shield the Indians from the corruptions and abuses of the Indian traders. But the system failed. The agents, selected from the East in the way of favor, ignorant of Indian and border life, proved no match for the old border traders and wily half-breeds. An extract from one report will sample the results : — " An intelligent gentleman who has just visited Chicago informed me, July, 1820, that there were goods at that place to the value of twenty thousand dollars, which cost more at Georgetown than the traders ask for their goods at the post of delivery, and that the goods are inferior in quality and ANCIENT CHICAGO. Go selected with less judgment than tliose of the traders ; that only twenty-five dollars' worth of furs was sold by the factor at Chicago ; that the Government makes no profit on its capital, and pays the superintendents, factors, and sub-factors, and their clerks out of their funds." ^ The citation takes us back three quarters of a century, yet we need not go back the tenth of a decade to find appointments to the border as inapt for tlie good of the Indian or of the United States. A civil service reform in our time, with competi- tive examination of candidates for salaries and chances there, and on such topics as Indian his- tory, Indian nature, habits, and present condition, the scalp dance, green-corn feast, and drunken rows around smuggled whiskey, and plots of speculators for breaking treaties and seizing reservations, would set aside many tide-water applicants " totally unacquainted with the Indian country." And an extension of this "service reform" to benevolent organizations and offices might stay some from rashly assuming official and public work and hon- ors beyond the Mississippi, who had never yet seen the waters of that river, nor even Cincinnati and Chicago. The early years of this century moved on with a weary sameness by Fort Dearborn. A morning ^ Report on Indian Affairs to John C. Calhoun, Secretary of War, from a Tour made 1820. By Jedidiah Morse, D.D, p. 48. 64 ANCIENT CHICAGO. and evening gun could wake the primeval still- ness of that far northwest village, where now human voices and the locomotive and mill-whis- tles and the rattling industries of an immense city are making a perpetual riot of civiliza- tion. Indian bands came and went stealthily and in absolute silence, with moccasin and paddle ; packs of peltry and fur made no noise as red trappers and white traders laid them down on the mud levee of the North Branch and South Branch ; Pottawatomies, Sacs and Foxes, and Kickapoos came in, early and unfailing, for their payments, and the "good deal of liquors" of Porthier strength- ened their patience in waiting; rarely an immi- grant or traveller was challenged by the sentinel at this extreme point of American life, and much more rarely the birth of a white child varied the monotony. But the commotion of a storm was soon to put an end to sameness. Prior to the War of 1812 there was a growing and hostile uneasiness among the Indians of the North- west of that day. They regarded with anxiety the approaching and constantly aggressive power of the whites, while English influences over the border turned this toward an embittered hostility. Te- cumseh, a Shawneese, with his brother the Prophet, sought to organize a great Indian confederation against the white movement into tlie Northwest. To this end he visited all the tribes on the borders of the lakes Michigan, Huron, and Superior, and ANCIENT CHICAGO. G5 in the South, the Choctaws, Cherokees, and Creeks, as well as the tribes bordering on the west bank of the Mississippi. His success was not perfect, but it was formidable ; and had not the Propliet precipitated the result, it must have proved most disastrous to our whole frontier. While Tecumseli was in the South, his brother brought on the bat- tle of Tippecanoe, Nov. 7, 1811, in which Gen- eral Harrison decidedly gained the day ; and if the English had not come to the rescue with aid and comfort, the confederacy would probably then have come to an end. War with England was declared the next June, Fort Mackinaw was sur- rendered to the Englisli, and orders were received to abandon Fort Dearborn, which was done on the 15th of August. In conference with the Indians then surrounding the Fort, it was agreed that this should take effect in mutual peace and safety. But the Indians proved treacherous, and when the garrison and outside families had proceeded but a mile or more, the five hundred Pottawatomies, who had agreed to be escorts, fell murderously upon the small band. Of the company there were sixty- eight soldiers, but a large number were on the sick-list, leaving perhaps forty fighting men. With these were ten or twelve women and twenty chil- dren, — about one hundred souls. It was hardly an hour's bloody work, and twenty-five of the soldiers and eleven women and children remained and surrendered. The fight, after the first onset, 5 66 ANCIENT CHICAGO. was hand to liand and tevribly earnest, even the women doing their full share. Hopelessness cre- ated desperation, and al)out fifteen Indians paid the penalty of their faithlessness. The months were long and painful before it was known who were saved, and who the captives were, and much longer before they were redeemed and restored to kindred and friendly hands. The next day the Fort and the Indian Agency were burned. The day of the massacre was marked also in the dark calendar of the frontier by the sur- render of Detroit to the English by General Hull. For four years the cliarred remains of the Gov- ernment buildings lay untouched, and the iive cabins — all there was of Chicago as a settle- ment — stood vacant, and only the wolves cared for the bodies and bones of the men, women, and little ones who perished, — more than sixty in all. Fort Dearborn was rebuilt in 1816 and garrisoned with two companies of infantry. One of the first pious acts of the commandant. Captain Bradley, was to gather tenderly such remains of the massa- cred ones as the elements and wild animals had left, and give them a Christian and sacred rest. One by one the fugitives came back, timidly and nervously, as on bloody ground and among graves. Kinzie led the way, and took his old cabin again, — the house of Le Mai and of De Saible. Very little is to be said of changes in Chicago between the rebuilding of the Fort and 1830. At ANCIENT CHICAGO. 67 the latter date Chicago was not born, nor did it by incorporation and organization enter the list of American towns till 1833. Meanwhile a stray- explorer or adventurer and a fugitive fact enable us at this late day to keep trace of the IVontier waif, yet much as a handful of ashes in the drifting sands tells where the Arabs camped once or twice. In 1817 the Hon. Samuel A. Storrow, Judge-Advo- cate of the Army, visited Fort Dearborn, where, he says, " Major Baker and the officers of the garrison received me as one arrived from the moon." Strangers arriving in that city now do not so surprise it, nor is it as difficult to find it as in those earlier days, when one was liable to miss the trail and pass the town without seeing it, as one incident will show. In 1827 Col. Ebenezer Childs contracted to supply Fort Howard, Wis- consin, with beef, and left for Illinois or Missouri to purchase cattle, and he says : " We started for Chicago, took the wrong trail, and went too far west. . . . We got out of provisions the fourth day. I found an Indian Mdio had a large quantity of muskrats ; I bought a number, and had a fine feast. We got the Indian to take us and our bag- gaq;e across the Eau Plaine in his canoe, making our horses swim alongside. We learned that we had passed Chicago, having gone some fifteen miles to the west. The Indian put us on the right track, and we arrived at Chicago the next morning pretty well used up." 68 ANCIENT CHICAGO. Tliree years later Schoolcraft found four or five families there, and among thein our old friend John Kinzie, whom, in 1822, Charles C. Trow- bridge met there. Kinzie was then the agent of the American Fur Company, — that is, John Jacob Astor. The year following is marked by a more distinct and emphatic record. Colonel Long, of perpetual memory on Long's Peak, then spoke of the place as consisting of three log-cabins " inhabited by a miserable race of men scarcely equal to the Indians from whom they had de- scended ; " their cabins were " low, filthy, and dis- gusting, displaying not the least trace of comfort," and the place "affording no inducement to the settler." Ebenezer Childs, of La Crosse, speaks of Chicago as he saw it in 1825 : — "At that time Chicago was merely an Indian agency. It contained about fourteen houses, and not more than seventy-five or one hundred inhab- itants at the most. An agent of the American Fur Company, named Gurdon S. Hubbard, then occupied the Fort. The staple business seemed to be carried on by the Indians and runaway sol- diers, who hunted ducks and muskrats in the marshes." As to the number of the houses and of the population about this time there are apparent dis- crepancies in the authorities. The statements of ANCIENT CHICAGO. 69^ Mr. Cliikls apply to 1825, and yet we are iiifoniicd ill 1830, "Surveyor Thompson found seven families only outside of the Fort." The infant settlement was exposed to a second massacre. "In 1828 In- dian hostility threatened a general attack on the settlements ; but after the murder of a few immi- grants a large volunteer force, added to the regu- lars of Fort Dearborn and Fort Armstrong at Eock Island, overawed the savages for the time." The "Chicago Directory " for 1830 was not a very portly volume. The commercial and business sections of it condensed stand thus : Taverns, two ; Indian traders, three; butchers, one; merchants, one. The poll list for the county election that year embraces thirty-two voters. lieligious germs did not appear till the following year, and Mr. Andreas well says, "As a whole, the Chicago of 1831 could not have been consid- ered a pious town." The Methodists were first on the ground, as is usual on the frontier, always excepting the Jesuits, where there are Indian and Canadian village.s. Protestantism would spread more rapidly and vigorously if its adherents were as faithful as the lioman Catholics in carrying their religion always with them. The quality of the two forms of Christianity is, of course, another matter ; but they carry tlieir best. The opening of the school system in Chicago is quite romantic. In 1810 a spelling-book found its way to this lone village in a chest of. tea from 70 ANCIENT CHICAGO. Detroit, and came into the already historic house of Baptiste Point de Saible, then occupied by Kinzie. In the family was a son, John H., and his cousin, Eobert A. Forsyth, afterward paymaster in tlie United States Army, who assumed the posi- tion of instructor. The teacher was thirteen years old, his pupil six, the course of study tliis spelling- book, and the school building was the " Kinzie house." The first formal school was opened in 1816 in a log-house, once used as a bakery, in tlie rear part of Kinzie's garden. The pupils were this Kinzie boy, his brother, and two sisters, and three or four children from the Fort. In 1820 a school was taught in tlie Fort, and nine years later we find it in a room "near the garrison." In 1830 its twenty-five pupils are in " a large, low, gloomy log-building, which had five rooms." The main school-room was finally made cheerful by the white cotton sheeting which covered the ugly walls. It was a private school and Mrs. Forbes shared in the charge with her husband, while she managed the domestic apartments of the same building. Mr. Forbes afterward was promoted to the office of sheriff of the county, — whether from aptness shown in catching and holding frontier children is not stated. While these varied items of fur trade, fighting, and education were working into a thread of his- tory on that section of the " Chicagou route " ANCIENT CHICAGO. 71 between Canada and the Louisiana, the coming civilization was agitating the Northwest Territory. Immigration had made its trail along the borders of the Lakes, had quite generally prospected the valley of the Ohio, and extended to the Missis- sippi. As early as 1802 Kentucky, Tennessee, and Ohio were in the Union. In 1809 the north- ern boundary of the Illinois Territory was run due west from the southern point of Lake Michigan, which left Chicago, the Kinzie boy, and his spell- ing-book of the next year in Wisconsin Territory. After the rebuilding of the Fort, Aster's fur-trading schooner began to visit the lonely town, anchoring there once or twice a year among innumerable water-fowl. Excepting canoes and batteaux, this was the only water craft that greeted it for many years. In 1818 Illinois came into the Union and Chicago came back into Illinois. Between 1830 and 1836 tliere entered the town in close and tumul- tuous succession the usual staples of a young and of course ambitious frontier settlement, — a post- office and town incorporation, several denomina- tional religions by organization, a newspaper, a stage-line, Indian raids, rude bridges, critical foot- walks, a land office, and a canal company incorpo- rated in 1825 ; the capital of which was $1,000,000, while the total valuation of all the land within the present city limits was under $25,000, and tlie town effected a loan of $60 for street improvements. In 1880 the valuation of Chicago was $115,003,561, 72 ANCIENT CHICAGO. its taxes were $3,829,618, and its bonded debt was $12,752,000. Scientific accuracy finds a strik- ing illustration in this canal project. Five routes for it were surveyed between Lake Michigan and the Illinois ; the lowest estimate of construc- tion was $639,946, and the highest $716,110, and Government made a land-grant way of 284,000 acres ; in March, 1843, the enterprise collapsed, after an expenditure of $5,139,492.03. It was a State project, though Chicago was eminent in it, and in the year of incorporation had fourteen tax- payers only, with an aggregate tax of $94.47. The project was even national, for President Madison had recommended it by message in 1814. The same project gains a notice in the " St. Louis Directory and Eegister " for 1821 : " In the course of a few years the Illinois Eiver will be, most probably, connected with Lake Michigan." Also municipal regulations came in over the seven tav- erns, that they should not cliarge more than twelve and a half cents for a lodging or for a half pint of whiskey, or more than twenty-five cents for a breakfast, or for half a pint of brandy, or rum, or wine, or for a supper. Immigration came around the end of Lake Michi- gan in tidal waves. The winter of 1831-32 is still carried in the memories of some, and history will never forget it, Four hundred immigrants were quartered in the Fort, and as the intense cold, the Indians, and the wolves closed in on the scattered ANCIENT CHICAGO. 73 settlers, tlie entire body of the inhabitants followed the immigrants. Tiie summer and General Scott raised the siege, when the cholera fell on them, coming with the stately general on the first steamer tliat ever entered that port. The pulse of speculative life that throbbed vio- lently to the eastward of Lake Michigan affected the finances of this young town. The Erie Canal had made a splendid success, and brought the Atlantic Ocean four hundred miles nearer; Ohio liad rushed in growth ; steamers were puffing on inland waters which canoes had hardly abandoned, and the railroad era had opened in the seaboard States with almost unlimited fancies of sudden wealth. Land values became fabulously increased on an infinite frontier of acres ; thousands of miles of railroad were projected as into void space ; the work and growth and fortunes of the next genera- tion were anticipated, and telescopic values were put on front lots and corner lots and water lots about the lower end of Lake Michigan. Chicago went crazy when steamers came in and railroads promised to come. She did not then know that the Mississippi Valley has more than forty rivers navigable to the extent of more than fifteen thou- sand miles, and could possibly postpone the rail- road era. Immigration flooded the city. Between April and September, 18:54, a hundred immigrant vessels landed their burdens of men, hungry and famishing for land, while the procession in carriage 74: ANCIENT CHICAGO. and saddle and on foot was continuous ; and in twelve months the pupulaLiun went up eight-fold. So rife was speculation, that the town could not borrow two thousand dollars at ten per cent. Real money or coin disappeared except at the land office,' — where it alone availed for land, and at a dollar and a quarter an acre, — and promissory notes, collaterals, and various wild paper flooded the market. Meanwhile the average American, with his love of law and order, was there, and gambling-houses, Sabbath-breaking, liquor-saloons, and shooting with- in town limits were prohibited, and officials were required to give bonds. The land fever and the frenzy of speculation increased in wiklness till 1837. A crash then came, as a cyclone comes, only that it was of immense advantage to Chicago in bringing it to its senses and to old-fashioned realities. In the year preceding, and before the town "came to itself," its exports, total, were $1,000.64, and its imports were $325,203.90 ; and it was not till 1842 that as much was shipped off as was received, when the population was 6,590. Nothing could repress the city ; reverses and checks could only consolidate it. The position was a foreordination to growth and greatness, and its success was inevitable and irresistible. Its splendid future was made evident and certain when the canal was opened in 1848 from the city ANXIENT CHICAGO. 75 to the head of navigation on the Illinois, and a railroad with the East in 1852. Chicago was naturally located at one of the few roundiug-points in the highways of the world, and yet a thousand miles inland. Tliese two grand connections with the business world — canal and rail, especially the one by rail — admitted it to that family of cos- mopolitan cities any one of w]jich is a centre for the trading nations. The locomotive, which so ignores locality and makes the world migratory, made the city permanent when it arrived ; and it occasioned the pithy remark that "up to 1852 nobody residing in Chicago considered himself permanently settled." In 1838 shippers of hides ventured, with much solicitude, to export for a market seventy-eight bushels of wheat. Fcjrty-two years later the city exported by water and land 22,796,288 bushels of wheat, and 2,862,737 barrels of wheat flour, making a total equivalent of 35,678,60-4 bushels of wheat.i In 1833 a citizens' meeting was convened to incorporate the town. The total nund:)er of legal voters was twelve, and against one negative the incorporation was secured. One of the first town ordinances was to prohibit live pigs in the streets. 1 Wheat ranges from four to six bushels to a barrel of flour, according to the grade of wheat and of flour. The above esti- mate is on the average for 1879, which was four and a half bushels to the barrel. 7G ANCIENT CHICAGO. Ill 1880 ChicaL,ni handled, through her streets, 7,059,355 of them, besides 39,091 barrels of dressed pork. The first white settler, Marquette, spent a winter there, and supplied his family market with bufl'alo, deer, and turkey, shot from his own cabin door. In 1880 Chicago had for disposal, not to mention other meats, 1,382,477 beef cattle. On the 6th of May, 1635, the General Court of the Massachusetts Bay Colony passed the fol- lowing law : — " It is ordered that it shalbe lawfull for Mr. Leveredge to transporte ten bushells of corne out of this jurisdiccon, notwithstanding any former order to the contrary." ^ At that time the region of Chicago was a good thousand miles into the absolutely unknown West. Marquette and La Salle were yet unborn. It is yet, then, in the Massachusetts General Court, thirty-five years before the first white man, La Salle, shall see the present site of Chicago. In 1880 Chicago, with no permit from any court, exported 93,500,000 bushels of corn. For six months, ending with October, 1880, the receipts of corn averaged more than one thousand cars of 24,000 pounds each for every working-day, — that is, there came into the city 428,571 bushels of corn a day. In 1837 the water-works of Chicago ^ Records of Mass.ic]msots Bay Colony, 1635, vol. i. p. 148. ANCIENT CHICAGO. / i consisted of a hogshead on wheels, with bucket and faucet, for any one who would hail the wan- dering cistern, — such water- works as the writer I'ound in Leadville in 1880. Now, Chicago lifts Lake Michigan as a goblet to her 750,000 pairs of thirsty lips. Andreas gives a good pen-picture of the town as it appeared in the year of its incorporation : — " The village was built along the south side of "Water Street, and westerly toward the settlement at the forks. There were scattered shanties over the prairie south, and a few rough, iinpainted buildings had been improvised on the north side, between the old Kinzie house and what is now Clark Street. All together, it would, in the light of 1833, have presented a most woe-begone appear- ance, even as a frontier town of the lowest class. It did not show a single steeple, nor a chimney four feet above any roof. A flag-staff at the Fort, some fifty feet high, flaunted, in pleasant weather and on holidays, a weather-beaten flag as an em- blem of civilization, patriotic pride, national do- main, or anj^thing else that might stir the hearts of the denizens of the town. The buildings of the Fort were low-posted, and none of them exceeding two stories in height." The first frame house for business had been built only the year before, and the first for religious and educational purposes, in part, this same year of 78 ANCIENT CHICAGO. town organization. In a private letter to the author, the Rev. Dr. Jeremiah Porter says : " There was not a framed dwelling-house in town in ]\Iay, 1833, and only three framed stores." The. pop- nlation at the time of incorporation was about two hundred and fifty, in which were eight physi- cians and six lawyers; nevertheless the population increased in numbers and grew in prosperity ! The second hotel (the Tremont), built expressly for such use, was added to make this year event- ful ; and yet so rural was Chicago then, that its guests could lounge on its steps and shoot wild fowl in the slough before the door. These glances at ancient Chicago would not be perfect if one scene were omitted. In 1831 about four thousand Indians surrounded the town with their wigwams, and covered the lake, shores, and creeks with their canoes, and trailed their blankets along the walks of the village. They were laden witli their arms and paint, and carried no extra friendliness in their looks and manners. It was pay-day on the border, and the United States offi- cers were there to pass over the annuities. The outside farmers, and the villagers too, might be excused for some nervousness, for Black Hawk's band had recently gone quite unwillingly to the west of the Mississippi, and it was known that emissaries from it were among the four thousand to beget a bloody outbreak. The September skies were peaceful and balmy, and yet it was an apt ANCIENT CHICAGO. 79 time for tlie Imrricane. Had the Indian tornado burst on them, they well knew that their two hundred men, women, and children would have gone like leaves before the whirlwind of four thousand. It was almost ready, but did not burst till the next year ; and the haughty, angered, and drunken braves took their annuities, and went off moody and disappointed that they had no scalps to carry l)ack. We can appreciate the scene and anxieties, from our experience at Keokuk ten years later. It was when that town consisted of twelve log and two frame houses tliat we were detained there some days. The Iowa Territory Indians were there in multitude, and were proving the thirteen saloons in those twelve log-houses — one double — while their head men were gone down to St. Louis for their annuities. In later years we found it another affair and wholly agreeable to spend some time with twenty-five hundred in a great Indian fair at JMuscogee, in the Indian Territory. The year 1833 was an important one for the town in many respects, and indeed it miglit be said that ancient Chicago was terminated by it. We have tlierefore tarried in collecting items which would show it at that time, and now turn for a moment to private and unpublished papers for still more. Our correspondent had been for about two years post chaplain at FoTt Brady, Sault St. Marie, outlet of Lake Superior. He writes : — 80 ANCIENT CHICAGO. " Wo sailed from the Sault, May 4, 1833; found no settlement on the western shore of Luke Michi- gan except the trading post of the American Fur Company at Milwaukee; reached tiie anchorage off Fort Dearborn Sunday morning, May 13. No harbor, and sea so rough we could not go ashore that day, and lay seasick, in our bertlis. . . . Major Fowle had prepared for me a preaching place in Fort Dearborn, there being none but a log schoolhouse in town. That was the carpenter's shop. In it I preached the first Sabbath morning, May 20, 1833, from the words, ' Herein is my Father glorified, that ye bear much fruit.' . . . Mine was the first church ever organized at Chicago since the crea- tion of the world ; and on the 26th of June, 1833, by adopting the confession of faith of the Presby- tery of Detroit, — the nearest to us. . . . By the 1st of January, 1834, I preached the dedication sermon of our house of worship. It stood ' way out on the prairie,' between where now stands the Sherman House and Lake Street. ... In an un- finished loft of one of tlie three framed houses was my bedroom and study, and, for a time, Sabbath- school room. . . . Wisconsin, Iowa, and all the Northwest were then the abode of wild Indians." ^ Dr. Porter adds an item which should be expanded to complete the view of our ancient 1 Jeremiah Porter, D.D. , Fort Sill, Indian Territory, Nov. 3, 1873. Private letter. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 81 Chicago. Among the wasting remnants of our In- dians there probably are not enough now within any single call to repeat the scene. He says : " Five thousand Indians, assembled, came to make terms of surrender of Illinois and Wisconsin lands for others west of the Mississippi Eiver. . . . Tlie council was held on the prairie on the north side of the river, in front of my study window, and in plain vieAv." This was the gathering for the great Indian Treaty of 1833, under which the united Chippewa, Ottawa, and Pottawatomie Indians were moved to the eastern bank of tlie Missouri in the region of Council Bluffs, and the United States took their abandoned lands in Illinois and Wiscon- sin, — about five millions of acres. The same num- ber were accorded to these Indians for their new home. It might as well have been fifty millions ; for it was a nominal affair with the chiefs, when they signed the treaty with their " mark," feasted and drunken by the other " high contracting party;" and when Iowa and other Western growths pressed on them like high tides, they were lifted as waifs and thrown farther west. A few graphic passages from Charles J. Latrobe, an English traveller, and an honored guest at the council, will best show us the neighbors, Indian and white, to the minister's study on that occasion. The Indians "were encamped on all sides, — on the wide level prairie beyond the scattered vil- lage ; beneath the shelter of the low woods which 6 82 AN'CIENT CHICAGO. checkered them ; on the side of the small river, or to the leeward of the sand-hills near the back of the lake. . . . The little village was in an uproar from morning to night and from night to morning; for during the hours of darkness, when the housed portion of the population of Chicago strove to obtain repose in the crowded plank edi- fices of the village, the Indians howled, sang, wept, yelled, and whooped in their various encampments. With all this, the whites seemed to me to be more pagan than the red man. . . . Far and wide the grassy prairie teemed w^ith figures, — warriors mounted or on foot, squaws and horses. Here a race between three or four Indian ponies, each carrying a double rider, whooping and yelling like fiends ; there a solitary horseman, with a long spear, turbaned like an Arab, scouring along at full speed ; groups of hobbled horses ; Indian dogs and children ; or a grave conclave of gray chiefs seated on the ground in consultation. . . . Emi- grants and land speculators as numerous as the sand; you will find horse-dealers and horse-steal- ers, rogues of every description, white, black, brown, and red ; half-breeds, quarter-breeds, and men of no breed at all ; men pursuing Indian claims ; sharpers of every degree ; pedlers, grog-sellers, Indian agents and Indian traders of every de- scription, and contractors to supply the Potta- watomies with food. . . . The quarters [in Fort Dearborn] were too confined to afford place of ANCIENT CHICAGO. 83 residence for the Government commissioners, for whom and a crowd of dependents a temporary set of plank huts were erected on the north side of the river. ... It is a grievous thing, — the shameful and scandalous sale of whiskey to tliese poor miserable wretches. But here lie casks of it under the very eye of the commissioners, met together for purposes which demand that sobriety sliould be maintained. . . . The council fire was lighted under a spacious ojien shed on the green meadow on the opposite side of the river from that on which the fort stood." The position of the two parties in the council lodge was most sig- nificant, though, of course, not intended to be so. " The glorious light of the setting sun streaming in under the low roof of the council-house fell full on the countenances of the former [the whites], while the pale light of the east hardly lighted up the dark and painted lineaments of the poor In- dians, whose souls evidently clave to their birth- right in that quarter." ^ The position of the two parties in this grand Indian council at Chicago on that September day, 1833, was painfully and sadly historic and prophetic. The Indians looking east- ward and backward and despondent, and the white man looking westward and forward and ardent, — that is the history of the two races in this country. Ou the Indian side the Treaty has the fallowing 1 The Ramhler in North Americn, 1832, 1833. By Charles Joseph Latrobe. Two volumes. Vol. II., Letter XI. 84 ANCIENT CHICAGO. indorsement : " The undersigned, chiefs and head men of the said nations of Indians, have hereunto set their hands at Chicago the said day and year, Sept. 26, 1833." Then follows the signature of seventy-seven Indian names, and against each " his X mark." It is safe to say that the Chicago Board of Trade never did so much business on one day as was done on this day in the transfer of land. The post-office is a good index to the state of a community, and the lirst one of Ancient Chicago was characteristic of frontier America. In that hard winter of 1831-32, memorable in the liistory of the present magnificent city, a tough half-breed went on foot once a fortnight to Niles, Michigan, ninety miles away, to carry and bring the mail. Though tliis date is so recent in our national annals, it should be noticed that no steamer had yet touched at Chicago. Only light sails, Macki- naws, birches, and pirogues had then rounded Wolf Point, the angle of land between the North and South Branch. The year following, 1832, the first steamboat arrived at Chicago, bringing the eminent General Scott to take a hand in the Black Hawk war, already well over, and the cholera came with the General. This same year witnessed the appointment of a new postmaster of the prophetic city, like Paris and St. Petersburg rising from the mud. Postmaster Hogan signalized his admin- istration, and no doubt made political capital, by two improvements on the half-breed arrangement. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 85 He secured a weekly mail on horseback from Niles, and inaugurated the private-box system. This consisted of a row of old boots nailed to the rude log walls, bearing the name of such as had a heavy correspondence. The occasional letter was served in a more democratic way, even much later, as a private letter informs me. " My husband, A. D. Reed, of Boston, came out to Illinois in Oc- tober, 1837, on horseback, in company with Colonel Porter, from Rochester. Tliey were prospecting for the purpose of locating and investing in lauds. Stopping at Chicago, they inquired at the post- otfice for letters, and the letters were turned out of a bushel basket on a table. Among these they searched for any that might belong to them." All this is somewhat in contrast with the Chicago post- office of to-day. An official statement, courteously given me on request, under date of October, 1886, furnishes the following facts : Number of letters, postal cards, and circulars despatched daily and mailed in Chicago, 360,000 ; printed matter and mer- chandise, 49,903 pieces; pieces of second-class mat- ter, 125,000. Here is the daily despatch of 534,903 pieces of mail matter originating in the city. The aggregate weight, not including second-class matter, was 25,372 pounds. For carrying off the mails of Chicago there are used, on a daily average, 1,386 canvas sacks, making an annual total of 499,272 sacks, and an annual total of 125,684 lock-pouches. 8G ANCIENT CHICAGO. The amount of money received for money-orders between July 1, 1883, and June 30, 1886, was $4,585,600.40, and the amount paid out for money- orders for the same time was $23,322,029.84. At date of statement the number of lock-boxes — not old boots — was 774, the number of clerks was 518, and the number of carriers was 358. This weiglit of mail is marvellously in excess of the fortnightly burden of the half-breed carrier. It would have required many scores of blanketed Pottawatomies and Black Hawk spies to carry up the population to the present number of post- oftice men. The tramping and hurrying proces- sion through the corridors and halls of the present office, with the clicking of lock-boxes and the calls at the general deliveries, is strongly in contrast with Hogan's log-room and boot-boxes. Mr. Eeed would hardly recognize bis bushel basket in the present edifice. Our Eastern friends of the basket post-office had a fancy to feed their two saddle horses with oats while they took refreshments " at a rude kind of building" called a tavern, and prospected the vil- lage for possible investments. "They inquired for oats to feed their horses, and were informed that none were to be had in town, which circum- stance decided them to ride on, and probably pre- vented their making a profitable investment in land there." However, Mr. Eeed thought better of the oatless town, and afterward returned to ANCIENT CHICAGO. 87 permanent residence there, and must have been satisfied finally in the call fur his favorite grain ; for in the last year of his residence there (187C) Chicago received 23,490,915 bnshels of oats. Here were oats enough to bait ninety-four millions of horses with a peck apiece. Tliat is more than thirteen times the number of all the fed horses in the United States at the last census. When in later years Mr. Eeed was president of one of the Chicago banks, he found his mail better served than by the early method of bushel baskets. It was in 1846 that Sir Eobert Peel predicted in Parliament tliat two towns in interior America would by and by rival Odessa and Dantzic in the grain market of the world, and he mentioned Chicago and Milwaukee. Tliese towns had never before been spoken of in Parliament, and were quite unknown to some geographical experts in that body. To the whispered question what he called them, the answer was tlie quite indefinite one, " Some Indian places." The remark of Sir Robert takes on almost the sublimity of a proph- ecy of one of the ancients. Eminent Americans have been quite as uninformed about our Western growth as were the Englisli experts. In 1835 the Piev. Dr. Joel Hawes, of Hartford, had a call to the First Presbyterian Church in Chicago. "AVhen Dr. Hawes received the letter of invitation, he took it to Judge Williams of his church, and said: ' I 've got a letter from some place out West, called 88 A^■CIENT CHICAGO. Chick'-a-go, asking me to come there and preach. Can you tell me where it is ? ' Having learned that it was in a great swamp hack of Lake Mich- if'an, he thought it best not to remove." ^ Only eight years before Sir llobert's prophecy certain shippers of hides in Chicago had, with much daring and timidity, made a venture for a market by exporting forty-four sacks of wheat. In 1880 that " Indian place" exported by land and water 22,796,288 bushels of wheat, and 2,802,737 barrels of wheat flour, making a total aggregate for one year of 35,678,604 bushels of wheat. It is doubtless without precedent in the annals of the world that a city of seven hundred and fifty thousand has sprung up so suddenly on the can] ping-ground of a conquered and retreating people. In Old World times smouldering cities have been left in the track of invading armies; but in the iSTew World hamlets, villages, and cities are planted by the invasion. To mark off to-day, amouCT magnificent blocks of merchantmen and mansions of merchant princes, the camping-ground of those Indians, would be to thousands in Chicago even as a story of Sinbad the Sailor, or as an in- terlined and dubious chronicle of Alfred the Great or of one of the early Henrys. No wonder that Gladstone said of the United States in their growth, " America is passing us by in a canter." ^ Historical Sermon by the Eev. John H. Barrows, D.D. Fiftieth Anniversary First Presbyterian Cliurch of Chicago. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 89 Mention has hseii made of the first teacher in Chicago, with his one pupil and one text-book. That was in 1810, A more formal yet private school followed in 1816. Immediately followincr the Black Hawk war, in 1832, another school was opened in a building twelve feet square, once a stable, with "old store boxes for benches and desks." In the first quarter Mr. Watkins, the proprietor, had twelve pupils ; " only four of them were white ; the others were quarter, half, and three-quarter Indians." Billy Caldwell, the Potta- watomie chief, offered to pay for tuition, books, and clothing of so many Indian children in the school as would adopt the dress of civilization, but not one accepted his offer. The dress was the obstacle. About this time a Miss Chappel left her school at Mackinaw and opened one in Chicago, with a Miss Mary Barrows as assistant. At last accounts Miss Chappel, as Mrs. Jeremiah Porter, was teaching at Port Sill in the Indian Territory. Two years afterward Mr. G. T, Sproat, from Boston, opened an English and Classical school, and a recent letter from one of his assistants gives a good idea of Chicago at that time, — 1834. " I used to go across without regard to streets. It was not uncommon in going to and from school to see prairie wolves, and we could hear them howl any time in tlie day. We were frequently annoyed by Indians, but the great difficulty we had to en- 90 ANCIENT CHICAOO. counter Wcis mnd. No person now can have a just idea of what Chicago mud used to be. llubbers were of no account. I purchased a pair of gen- tlemen's brogans and fastened them tight about the ankle, but would still go over them in mud and water, and was obliged to have a pair of men's boots made." It will give a tolerable idea of the growth of settlement to-day a thousand miles or two beyond Chicago, in log-houses and mud-towns, among In- dians and prairie wolves, if we notice what changes fifty years have wrought around Fort Dearborn and Wolf Point. In 1882 the Kinzie boy with his spelling-book from the tea-chest would have found 110,466 schoolmates, as those of legal school age in Chicago. Of these he would have noticed that 32,038 were attending private scliools, as was he in 1810. Master Eobbie Forsyth, the teacher, thirteen years old, would have found himself in competition with 1,019 public scliool-teachers. When Miss Warren drew on gentlemen's boots and went wading back and forth across the lots, tlie primitive order does not seem to have reached Chicago, — "Let the dry land appear;" but the work of creation has since been completed there, and Chicago has ceased to be amphibian. In setting forth Ancient Chicago, we made its first human haljitation our resting-place and our study ; and now, in conclusion, let us go back to its threshold to take farewell. ANCIENT CHICAGO. 91 It is the first liouse built in Chicago, and by De Saible, a Domingoau, in 1770. IMonarch of all he surveys from its low doorway, and solitary for seventeen years, he sells out to Le Mai, who keeps it open to Indians and furs for eight years, when John Kinzie buys him out in 1804, — the first x\merican in the town, though born in Quebec. Kinzie keeps it as a place for Indian barter till tlie massacre of 1812. Then for four years it stands open and vacant for the winds and the wild animals, till the owner cautiously and sadly returns. All about and in sight from its forsaken doorway are the ghastly remains of the massacre. Here the first wliite child is born in the city of to- day, and in 1823 becomes, under the same roof, the first bride. Of all the joyous weddings in that now populous city, the first was within those log walls ; and the same year its occupant, as probably the first justice of the county, held the first court in Chicago under its roof. Four years later it was vacated by Justice Kinzie, who moved across the river to a little house under tlie walls of the Fort, where he died in 1828. In 1831 it was occupied by Bailey, as the first postmaster in that prophetic town ; probably thus early on its floor the basket of mail matter was emptied, and later its walls were decorated with those boot letter-boxes by his successor and son-in-law, Hogan. It was easy of access, one hundred and fifty yards from the lake, on the north bank of the river and opposite the 92 ANCIENT GAICAGO. Fort, with a canoe or skiff or pirogue ferry between, free to any one wlio could handle paddle or oar, and half a mile or so down the river from Wolf Point. The bridges and draws, innumerable and intoler- able, were yet to come. After 1832, says Andreas, " there is no record of its being inhal)ited. Its decaying logs were used by the Indians and emi- grants for fuel, and the drifting sands of Lake Michigan were piled over its remains. No one knows when it finally disappeared," THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 93 CHAPTER VI. THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." " T INN was granted 6 miles into the countrey, J^ — J and Mr. Hauthorne and Lieft. Davenport to view and informe how the land Ijeth — whether it may bee fit for another plantation or no." So ran the records of the colony of Massachusetts Bay for the 13th of March, 1638-9. From that day to this, official and private inquiry has travelled westward from the colonial east " to view and informe." As to this ancient case, in- viting land was found, and colonial Lynn ex- tended herself finally over what now embraces six townships. The successors of Hawthorne and Davenport have continued explorations westward till settlers have gone quite to the Pacific, gener- ally finding land " fit for another plantation." Of course much of this emigrant movement into dense forests and over mountain ranges and through vast howling wilderness has been undertaken with hesitation, and carried on amid fear and great pri- vations and struggles. But nothing so crept over the youthful mind in the schoolroom or confronted daring pioneers on 94 TlIK " GltKAT AMERICAN DESERT." tlie westward growtli of the nation, as the " Great American Desert." It took position in North America much as the Saliara did in Africa, and the two claimed about equal space and importance on our cliildhood maps. This traditional chimera started very naturally in the ignorance of Ameri- can geography which prevailed as to the interior of our continent in colonial times. When Jona- than Carver, between the old French war and the Eevolution, was looking about the falls of St. An- thony and westward for a ship channel through to the Pacific, and the peace commission of 1783 were in a mistake of one hundred and twenty-five miles in locating the head of the Mississippi, and a Mexican historian was bordering our northwest coast on Tartary, the interior might well be unknown. We were most unfortunate in some of our first teachers in interior geography far back in colonial times. True, Popple's map, engraved in 1733, shows a grassy, wooded, and watered country be- yond the Mississippi and the Missouri. But a French map, " Par ordore de M. le Due de Choiseul, etc., 1764," says of the lands south and west of St. Louis, " ces centres sont pen connues," and if unknown, then Popple's drawings must have been pure fancy. This country lay south of tlie Missouri and extended across Kansas to the Eed Eiver. The first maps in accordance with the treaty of 17''^3 locate "great meadows" on both THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 95 sides of the Missouri. In his " Universal Geog- raphy" of 1793, Jedidiah Morse gives the most advanced knowledge of our interior at that date, ' and a few facts will indicate the extent and accu- racy of it. " From the best accounts tliat can be obtained from the Indians," he says, " we learn that the four most capital rivers of the continent of North America, namely, the St. Lawrence, the Mississii)pi, the River Bourbon [Missouri], and the Oregon, or River of tlie West, have their sources in the same neighborhood." ^ It is now interesting to see, on this old map, the Oregon, or River of the West, starting in what we call Devil's Lake, in northeastern Dakota, and emptying into the Bay of San Erancisco. St. Louis " is four or five miles north by west of Cahokia, on the east side of the Mississippi." To-day the city of four hundred thousand is gazetted differently. The anxieties of that day, clustering around that far- ofif and foreign land, are thus expressed : " It has been supposed that all settlers who go beyond the Mississippi will be forever lost to the United States." ^ Colonel Morgan, of New Jersey, was then founding a settlement to l)e called New j\Ladrid, under the patronage of the Spanish king, on the west bank of the Mississippi, about fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio. When ne- gotiations were proposed for the purchase of the Louisiana Territory, oidy a small tract was thought 1 Vol. i. p. 158. 2 Yoi_ j. p 169. 96 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." of, enough to give the free navigation of the Mis- sissippi. In a letter to M. Dupont of Feb. 1, 1803, Jefferson writes: "The country which we wish to purchase is a barren sand, six hundred miles from east to west, and from thirty to forty and fifty miles from north to south." After our acquisition of the Louisiana in 1803, Lewis and Clark went across it to the Pacihc to explore it, and long before their return, nothing liaving been heard from them, they were presumed to have perished in that unexplored region. Tliis expedition of Lewis and Clark was organized be- fore the purchase of Louisiana and in the interests of the Indian trade. In 1788 John Ledyard, who had been with Cook on the northwest coast, met Mr. Jefferson in Paris, and proposed the organization of a fur company for those coasts. Failing to en- list Jefferson, he started alone for that region by tlie way of Eussia, was arrested, imprisoned, re- leased, and in 1789 died at Cairo, Egypt. In 1792 Jefferson proposed to the American Philo- sophical Society of Philadelphia to send Captain Lewis, with companions, across to the Pacific for scientific and general exploring purposes. The plan failed on the eve of starting by the with- drawal of Michaux, tlie botanist, by his govern- ment, the French. In 1803 Congress attempted to extend the Indian trade into the wild northwest, and so organized the expedition that has become historic as that of Lewis and Clark. The instruc- THE "GKEAT AMERICAN DESERT." 97 tions for it were draughted in April, 1803. On the last day of the same month Louisiana Mas ceded to the United States ; and so the expedition which consumed two years* four months and nine days in the round trip from and to St. Louis, re- sulted in an exploration of our own territory. Under these shadows of ignorance, and beyond the western horizon, the Great American Desert took its place and name. Lieutenant Zebulon M. Pike first gave outline and prominence to this unfortunate myth in American geography and his- tory. He commanded two Government explora- tions of the country, examining the sources of the Mississippi, Missouri, Platte, and Arkansas, in 1805-1807. In his report to the war office, pub- lished soon after, he sketches the vast regions explored as repulsive to all immigrants and im- possible for settlements, and then says : — " From these immense prairies may be derived one great advantage to the United States ; namely, the restriction of our population to some certain limits, and thereby a continuation of the union. Our citizens being so prone to rambling and extending themselves on the frontier, will, through necessity, be constrained to limit their extent to the west to the borders of the Missouri and Mississippi, while they leave the prairies, incapable of cultivation, to the wandering and uncivilized Aborigines of the country. It appears to me to be only possible to 7 98 TIIK "CillEAT AMEllICAN DESERT." introduce a limited population to the banks of the Kansas, Platte, and Arkansas." ^ From this Government document the delusion was reproduced in manuals of geography, and began to pervade literature at home and abroad. The real biography of Major Pike is yet waiting for the romantic pen of personal and thrilling narrative. A son of the American army, born in the heat of the Eevolution, early a lieutenant under his father on the frontier, the first to ex- plore officially those head-waters ; captured over the unknown line and taken a prisoner to Santa Fe and old Mexico, after leaving his name on one of our noblest mountain peaks ; leading as briga- dier-general in the attack on York, now Toronto, in 1813 ; falling in the assault which proved vic- torious, and making a sign in his dying moments to have the captured British flag placed under his head, — he ended a most adventurous and heroic life. In 1810-11 the land party of the Astoria enter- prise, under Wilson P. Hunt, and outlined by the graphic pen of Irving, gave most unjust coloring to the horrors of this imagined desert; for the tragic fate of that expedition was attributed, in the popular mind, to the inhospitable qualities of an American Sahara; and to this day unread speakers and writers are damaging the West for ^ Expeditions, etc., of Lieut. Z. M. Pike, Appendix II. THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 99 tlie mistake and disasters which occurred to that party through ignorance of the country and in the mountains far beyond the desert, so called. In the year 1819-20, j\Iajor Stephen H. Long, of the army, by order of John C. Calhoun, Sec- retary of War, went out to " explore the Missouri and its principal branches, and then in succes- sion Red Eiver, Arkansas, and the Mississippi above the mouth of the Missouri." The expedi- tion took winter quarters near Council Bluffs, and then swept the eastern base and slopes of the Rocky Mountains along and among the heads and tributaries of the Missouri and its lower valleys. A few extracts from the official report of Major Long will show how the "desert" grew in area and in terror before the American people, and how good material it furnished to Europeans, who wished to disparage the United States and discourage emigration, and prepare the way to capture Oregon. Of the country between the Mississippi and Missouri it is reported that " the scarcity of timber, mill-seats, and springs of water — defects that are almost uniformly prevalent — must for a long time prove serious impediments in the way of settling the country. Large tracts are often to be met with, exhibiting scarcely a trace of vegetation." ^ The Great American Desert manifests itself thus authoritatively in an official document in this " Report of a United States 1 Long's Expedition, riiila. Eel. 1S23, vol. ii. pp. 341, 352. 100 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." Exploring- Expedition " : " From the minute ac- count given in the narrative of the expedition of the particular features of this region, it will be perceived to bear a manifest resemblance to the deserts of Siberia." ^ Of the mountainous country beyond, Major Long says : " It is a region destined by the bar- renness of its soil, the inhospitable character of its climate, and by other physical disadvantages, to be the abode of perpetual desolation." ^ If some early explorer from the Jamestown or Plymouth colony had said this of large sections to the westward, we could now see how their reports would have stayed the territorial growth of the colonies. Greenhow, in his " History of Oregon," and as late as 1845, sets thus in summary the teachings of " Long's Narrative " : " The whole division of North America, drained by the Mis- souri and the Arkansas and their tributaries, be- tween the meridian of the mouth of the Platte and the Eocky Mountains, is almost entirely unfit for cultivation, and therefore uninhabitable by a people depending upon agriculture for their sub- sistence. . . . These circumstances, as they be- came known through the United States, rendered the people and their representatives in the Fed- eral legislature more and more indifferent with regard to the territories on the northwestern side 1 Long's Expedition, vol. ii. p. 389. 2 Ibid., p. 401. THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." lUl of the continent. It became always difficult, and generally impossible, to engage the attention of Congress to any matters connected with those countries." ^ It was quite in the official line, and inevitable, that Pike's and Long's Government explorations and reports should furnish the staple for our his- tories and school geographies in their descriptions of that border land. Government documents, then as now, were taken as first authority ; wliile expe- rience has been teaching us to quote them cau- tiously where personal observation and judgment alone have furnished the data. In 1824 Woodbridge and Willard published their " Geography for Schools," and they thus spoke to the generation of pupils whom a better information is now correcting. Eei'erring to the great delta between the Mississippi and Missouri, they say : " The soil of this region is probably equal, if not superior, to that of any other tract of upland in the United States ; but the scarcity of timber, mill-seats, and springs must for a long time impede its settlement." ^ They cover a belt south of the Missouri, and extending well toward Red Eiver, with the re- mark, " The great swamp, two hundred miles in length and from five to thirty in width." It is now as difficult to find this "swamp" as to find ^ History of Oregon and California, p. 323. 2 Woodbridge and Willard's Geogvapliy, 1824, p. 77. 102 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." tlic " desert " of Pike and Long. Our authors proceed to say : — "From longitude 9G°, or the meridian of Council Bluffs, to the Chippewan mountains is a desert region of four hundred miles in leufjth and breadth, or about sixteen thousand square miles in extent. . . . On approaching within one hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, their snow-capped summits became visible. Here the hills become more frequent, and elevated rocks more abundant, and the soil more sterile, until we reach the abrupt chain of peaks which divide it from the western declivities of North America. Not a thousandth part can be said to have any timber growth, and the surface is gen- erally naked. . . . The predominant soil of this region is a sterile sand, and large tracts are often to be met with which exhibit scarcely a trace of vegetation. . . . The salts and magnesia min- gled with the soil are often so abundant as to destroy vegetation. The waters are, to a great extent, impure, and frequently too brackish for use. . . . The valley of the Canadian Eiver is encrusted to a great extent with salt nearly pure, resembling ice or snow in its appearance. The waters of this river are so impregnated with salt as to be unfit for use, and this is the case with other tributaries of the Arkansas and of the Red River. , . . Agreeably to the best intelligence we THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 103 Imve, the country, both northward and southward of that described, commencing near the sources of the Sahine and Colorado, and extending to the northern boundary of the United States, is through- out of a similar character." ^ Of the northwest territory the text-book taught that " the northern parts are sterile ; " and of the Missouri territory, that is, all nortli and west of the State of Missouri, in 1824, " there is little probability that it can ever become the residence of an agricultural nation ; " and of the Arkansas territory, that is, all southwest of Missouri to the Spanish line, that " the western portions are dry and sterile."^ Olney's Geography, in the change of school l)ooks, contained the same teachings. Of the northwest territory he but copies his predecessors in saying, " The- northern part is hilly and moun- tainous, with a light, barren soil." ^ The same author estimates the Missouri territory of that day as containing about eight hundred thousand square miles, extending from the Mississippi to the Missouri, and says : " The soil in the western parts and on the banks of the rivers is extremely rich and fertile ; the remainder is generally a vast, 1 Woodbridge and Willard's Geography, pp. 77-79. 2 Ibid., p. 2G6, Goodrich's Geography of 1826 speaks of "the Great American Desert." 3 Olney's Geography, 1831, p. 114. 104 THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." elevated, and l)aiTen waste, destitute of tiiuLer and vegetation." ^ In his edition of 1839, Smith makes the Great American Desert extend from the lied River of Texas and the Indian Territory and Arkansas to the North Platte. After the Asliburton-Webster treaty of 1842 had been ratified, the Oregon question assumed a livelier interest in Congress, and McDuffie, speak- ing of the region in dispute, said : " Why, as I understand it, seven hundred miles this side of the Eocky Mountains it is uninhabitable, where rain scarcely ever falls ; a barren, sandy soil." Somewhat later another eminent statesman, yet living, spoke of " a wagon road eighteen hundred miles in length, tlirough an arid and mountainous region," to the territory in dispute. Of course these gloomy accounts of uninhal)ita- ble and impassable wastes between the United States and coveted Oregon soon found their way into English periodicals, to aid in making the coming arguments against American possession over the mountains. So the " Edinburgh Review " for 1843 says of the country west of the Missouri and Arkansas : — " There lies the desert, . . . except in a few spots on the border of the rivers, incapable, proba- bly forever, of fixed settlements. This is the great 1 Olney's Geography, p. 117. THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 105 prairie wildern(3ss, wliicli lias a general breadth of six hundred or seven hunch-ed miles, and extends from south to north . . . nearly fourteen hundred miles, ... so complete in the character of aridity that the great rivers — the Platte, Arkansas, and Rio Grande — after many hundred miles of course through the mountains, dry up altogether on the plains in summer, like the streams of Australia, leaving only standing pools of water between wide sand-bars. . . . Oregon will never be colonized overland from the Eastern States. . . . With these internal obstacles between, we cannot but imagine that the world must assume a new face before the American wagons make plain the road to the Columbia as they have to the Ohio." Of course that unfortunate passage is quoted by the " Eeview " from Irving, in which the imagi- nation was vigorous after knowledge failed : — " An immense tract stretching north and south for hundreds of miles along the foot of the Rocky Mountains and drained by the tributary streams of the jMissouri and the Mississippi. Tiiis re- gion, which resembles one of the immeasurable steppes of Asia, has not inaptly been termed ' the Great American Desert.' ... It is a land where no man permanently abides, for in certain seasons of the year there is no food either for the hunter or his steed. The herbage is parched and with- ered ; the brooks and streams are dried up ; the 106 Tllii: "OIIKAT AMERICAN DESERT." buffiilo, the elk, and tlie door have wandered to distant parts, keeping within tlie range of expiring verdure, and leaving behind them a vast uninhab- ited solitude, seamed by ravines, the former beds of torrents, but now serving only to tantalize and increase tlie tliirst cjf the traveller. . , . Such is the nature of this immense wilderness of the far West, which apparently defies cultivation, and the habitation of civilized life. ... It is to be feared that a great part of it will form a lawless interval between the abodes of civilized man, like the wastes of the ocean or the deserts of Arabia." ^ It is much to be regretted that this misappre- hension of a vast region, much of it magnificent in agriculture to-day, should traverse the round world on the great fame of a pen which is hardly surpassed in pure and elegantly fascinating Eng- lish. He had no personal knowledge of the " des- ert" over which he has thrown this ghastly spell. His " Tour on the Prairies," published the year before, and the record of his own experiences, showed him no such forlorn region. In early days he had revelled in the trapper, hunter, and trader stories of the headquarters of the North- west Fur Company at Montreal, at an age, he owns, " when imagination lends its color to every- thing." The men who gave him positive informa- tion were but poor judges at the best of a region 1 Astoria, chap. x\ii. Tliis was publisheil in 1836. THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 107 for human homes ; and so far as they saw openings inviting to immigration, it was their interest and policy to conceal the fiicts and keep the country unoccupied as a game preserve, as the Hudson Bay Company covered and misrepresented their game-field, to the great damage of the Englisli Crown. The journals, letters, and business books of the fur trade which Astor put into his hands for this volume, the examining of which was spared him by his nephew, he confesses "were often meagre in their details, furnisliing hints to provoke rather than narratives to satisfy inquiry." ^ Irving makes an unconscious confession as to the quality of his material when he speaks of " the stories of these Sinbads of the wilderness " that his ears took in so ardently in those genial head- quarters at Montreal.^ A passage in his preface to " The Tales of a Traveller " might properly precede all that he says on the Great American Desert : " I have read somewhat, heard and seen more, and dreamt more than all. My brain is filled, therefore, with all kinds of odds and ends. In 1 The writer, after a residence anil trial of years in St. Louis, then the centre of tlie American fur trade, and in constant inter- course with Indian traders anil trappers and wandering border men, can .sympathize with Irving in this failure. 2 He supplemented his deficiency with the journals of travel- lers, as Messrs. Lewis and Clark, Long, Bradbury, Brecken- ridge, Franchere, and Eoss Cox. Of one of them, as authority. Major Long, we have already spoken. 108 THE "GKEAT AMERICAN DESERT." travelling, these heterogeneous matters have be- come shaken up in my mind, as the articles are apt to be in an ill-packed travelling-trunk ; so that when I attempt to draw forth a fact, I cannot determine whether I have heard, read, or dreamt it, and I am always at a loss to know how much to believe of my own stories." The " Westminster Keview" has the same senti- ment, borrowing from Pike, Long, Irving, and other misled American authors : " From the Valley of the Mississippi to the Eocky Mountains, the United States territory consists of an arid tract extending south nearly to Texas, which has been called the Great American Desert. " Edward I. Wallace, an English writer of 1846, says : " The caravan of emigrants who undertake the passage [of the desert and the mountains] take provisions for six months, and many of them die on the way." Governor Simpson, of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, who published his journey through the northwest in 1847, has this passage: "From the inhabited parts of the United States, it [Oregon] is separated by deserts of rock and sand on either side of the dividing ridge of mountains, — deserts with whose horrors every reader of Washington Irving's ' Astoria ' is familiar." The overland expedition of Wilson P. Hunt was not only a calamity to John Jacob Astor, but THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 109 to American geography and the general growth of the United States toward the Pacific. In his " Quarto Geography," 1849, Ohiey has a map of the United States west of the Indian Territory, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota. There is a curving zone extending back in width to the Eocky Mountains, and from northern Texas to the British line, and lettered " Great American Desert," with this description covering it : " This desert is traversed by numerous herds of buffaloes and wild horses, and inhabited by roving tribes of Indians." The " Modern Atlas " of W. C. Wood- bridge, published twenty years before, had the same belt with the same title, only that it there extended south through Texas to the Eio Grande. The " Quarto School Geography " of Eoswell C. Smith, 1852, extends Nebraska back through Wy- oming to the mountains, and says of the whole of it, " Little better than a desert." While the region north of Nebraska and extending west to the mountains, substantially Dakota, " resembles Nebraska in soil." Our school geographies, down to very late years, have taught the children the same mistakes about an uninhabitable region be- yond the Mississippi and the Missouri. It has already been shown that English interests in Oregon, while its title and occupation were yet open questions, studiously added area and horrors to the " desert " said to intervene between the States and that Territory. Twenty-five years later 110 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." tlie English policy to settle their country hot ween the Lake Superior region and the I'acific led English writers to perpetuate and pro[)agate the dying delusion ol" a Greiit American Desert. In the " Westminster lieview" for July, 18G7, the author makes a damaging attack on tlie Hudson Bay Company for keeping a tract of country " nearly as large as the whole United States and more than half the size of Europe as a vast pre- serve for the fur-bearing animals." In order to do this, the writer says that " the company has stu- diously cultivated the opinion that all Eupert's Land [the Hudson Bay Basin] is a howling wil- derness, a desert, where half-starved animals and men wage war for life on each other, and that nothing induces settlement." Now, after the exclusive rights of that huge monopoly had reverted to the Crown, and the English Government discovered that its eminent interest lay in opening up this magnificent country between Ontario and the Pacific to their own emi- grants and trade, the writer proceeds to adopt the policy that he has reprobated in the Hudson Bay Company. Speaking of the country south of the parallel of forty-nine, which divides the two countries, the " Eeview " says : — " From the Valley of the Mississippi to the Eocky Mountains the United States territory con- sists of an arid tract extending south nearly to THE "GKEAT AMERICAN DESERT." Ill Texas, which has bocii called the Great American Desert. This sterile region, covering such au ini- niense area, contains but a lew thousand miles of fertile land. . . . North of this is the zone of mixed country named the Fertile Belt, which is drained by the Red, Assiniboine, and Saskatchewan, and constitutes the basin of Lake Winnipeg. It consists of an undulatiug, park-like country, where prairies covered with luxuriant grasses are mingled with stretches of woodland, and well watered by numerous lakes and streams. . . . Nature, march- ing from east to west, showered her bounties on the laud of the United States until she reached the Mississippi, but there she turned aside and went northward to favor British territory." It is an interesting discovery in physical geog- raphy, that in the six days of creation, or somewhere in the glacial eras, Nature was so predetermined and took so sharp a turn north, after passing the Mississippi, just "to favor British territory " and advertise the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Yet ac- cording to present appearances Iowa and Minne- sota and Dakota were not totally disinherited in the will and legacies of Nature. Indeed, the author elsewhere, by a kind of human codicil, admits the two former and Kansas to " this beau- tiful region." lieturning to the English side of the line, the British autlior continues : " It appears that there 112 THE "GUEAT AMEUICAN DESERT." are from sixty tliousaiid to one hundred thousand square miles lying directly between the two colo- nies and British Columbia, which possess every possible qualification for agricultural purposes." Concerning which belt the " lleview " quotes Lord Selkirk as saying : " If these regions were occupied by an industrious population, they might afford ample means of subsistence to more than thirty millions of British subjects." No doubt these are fair statements of the quali- ties, areas, and possibilities of the English pos- sessions in question, and the English Government did not recover itself any too soon from a grasp- ing and uncivilizing monopoly. Referring to the Northern Pacific Eailroad, while writing for the Canadian Pacific, the "Westminster" says: "A road has been carried, not through a beautiful country like the Fertile Belt [of the Canadian Pacific], but through the barren wilderness of the American Desert, inhabited by fierce and hostile Indians. ... As the neighboring State of Minne- sota fills up, American emigrants will throng more and more over the boundary into the Fertile Belt. They cannot spread westward within the limits of the United States, for the Great American Desert forbids it." It does not seem needful to dwell further on the earlier outlines and description of this famous and fabled region, as Government reports, text-books, and periodicals have presented it. The area of it THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 113 began to contract on the eastern border when the Americans began, about 1843, to study earnestly the Oregon question, and since that date it has shown a steady diminution on the maps and in books. Official reports of State and Territorial surveys, text-books, and magazines have produced immense shrinkage in "arid tracts," "great swamps," " sterile sand," " steppes of Asia," and " the barren wilderness of the American Desert." Colton, the geographer, in 1867 draws a heavy pen through his former desert. When writing of Kansas he says : " The western portion is not so well adapted to sustain a large population as the more eastern districts." In his edition of 1877 he still farther diminishes the traditional barrenness, and confines the Mituvaises I'ervcs to a limited area in north- western Nebraska and southwestern Dakota, around the sources of the North Platte and White Earth rivers. This is quite in contrast with his state- ment in 1856, when, covering an extent of country from Fort Laramie to Wood Eiver — three hun- dred miles — he says, " Entirely unfit for cultiva- tion ; " and of a wide range south of the Platte and extending into Kansas, he remarks, "Much of this country is unproductiv'e and sterile." The Amer- ican Desert, while able to confront corps of civil and military engineers and explorers, has not been able to make a stand against the multitudes of farming immigration, and it has slowly retreated, before an army of invading ploughs, toward the 8 114 THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." iiioimtains. One section has turned to bay, like an animal of the chase, in southwestern Dakota and northwestern Nebraska, but for what length of time remains to be seen. Some labor has been expended by the writer in obtaining information down to date from old residents of that region, and of scientific experts who liave made offi- cial surveys of it for tlie Government, that the reader might see the American Sahara on its latest exhibitions. A. D., of Franklin County, took residence in Nebraska in 1869, and as a professional man has traversed the State quite extensively. He writes me : " I came to Butler County in the fall of 1869, making my home on the Platte. It was then tliought that ' over the blutfs,' that is, outside the Platte valley, the soil was of no account. There were three small school districts along the river. When I left in 1880 there were sixty-three school districts in tlie county, and scarcely a foot of public land to be had, every section occupied. It was thought in 1869 that there was very little land worth the having west of Butler County. How immigration, with the plough, scattered our theo- ries to the winds, — changed our theories notwith- standing the winds ! " Since that date settlements in Nebraska have moved west from the centre meridian of Butler County fifty miles on tlie shortest limit and one hundred on the lontrest limit. This latter move- THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESEllT." 115 ment embraces a belt one third the width of the State. On the two railroads running across the State there are continuous settlements to the Colo- rado and Wyoming lines. The average progress west along our entire border, from the British to the Me.\:ican boundaries, has been sixteen miles a year for forty years ; but into these desert h^nds, so supposed, the average has been reduced. Another resident of ISTebraska since 1867 says : " My own impression is that the Bad Lands are about the best part of our State, and that the American Desert is destined to blossom as the rose. There is sand in small quantities distrib- uted over vast areas, and some of our farmers like a little sand and some would have more. . . . Some of our citizens have travelled in western Nebraska, where report said the poor land was, and they pro- nounce that very portion of country excellent for grazing. . . . There is a clay vegetable mould loam in the sand along the Elkhorn and the Beaver which holds the sand in place, and the ratio is sufficient to make good soil in places where some farmers would declare at sight that that land is worthless." Prof J. E. Todd, of the United States Geological Survey, a man of thorougli, cautious, and clear views, says of Nebraska : " I believe that the great desideratum is water. The soil is good enough, but the water is, over much of the region, one hundred 116 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." feet below the surface or more. I believe, how- ever, that the rainfall is increasing over the whole region, and I presume that eventually the whole may be inhabited tj[uite thickly, but it will be by the help of irrigation. ... I should consider the 'barrens' of Nebraska good grazing land as a rule." Anotlier, who had assisted in an official survey of the northwestern portion of the State, estimates the Bad Lands at less than thirty townships. Of those whose opinions lie in manuscript be- fore the writer, but one more will be quoted, — W. F. K., — who was a resident business man in the State for ten years, and part of that time Indian agent for the Government. As he has travelled over every portion of the State, his opin- ions are to be received as -weighty and correct. Having traversed in one trip much of the Repub- lican valley and the South Platte from its mouth to its source, he remarks:- — " I can truly say that, in my judgment, there is not an acre of ground in southwestern Nebraska, where it is possible to irrigate the soil, but that any of the hardier products can be raised in abundance ; and tlie uplands are as fine a natural pasturage as can be found in the world, and are already covered by thousands of heads of stock tliat live on its grasses tlie year round. The same can be said of the bottom lands in the northwest THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESKUT." 117 part of the State. . . . There is a strip of laDcl lying between the North Platte and the Niobrara, of perhaps an average width north and south of fifty miles by one hundred and fifty east and west, comprising sand-liills covered by a scant vegeta- tion, that will support a limited amount of stock. Between the Niolnara and White Kivers is a strip of rocky, broken lands of an average width, north and south, of twenty miles, by a hundred or more east and west, covered by an abundant growth of fair quality of pine timber. And now comes the only actual part of Nebraska that can be called a desert. It is contained in that part of the country lying between the White Eiver and the north boundary of the State, less than thirty miles north and south by perhaps a hundred east and west. So you will see that Colton is away off, wrong, when he says that the Bad Lands, or Mcmvaiscs Terrcs, comprise a tenth of the State." Of the great central and eastern sections of the State, he adds : " All who have ever lived there know tliat the natural soil is far superior to the made gardens of New England." On an official United States map of Nebraska,^ drawn from Government surveys under the Depart- ment of the Platte, there is a curving belt extend- 1 Map of Nebraska, compiled and drawn under the direction of Capt. W. S. Stanton. Headijuarters Department of the Platte, Fort Omaha, Nebraska, June 23, 1881. 118 THE "GREAT AMEllICAN DESERT." injjj froiii tlio I'Litte to the Niobrara and iiortliern boundary, characterized by sand-hills, with some alkali niarslies. A thin coarse grass covers the summits of the hills, and a rank thick growth the valleys. Since it was so mapped, in 1881, thrifty settlements have entered the southern and north- ern sections of this belt. Here, as elsewhere, such regions, at first sight to the soldier and amateur explorer so forbidding, have yielded to the farmer. Twenty-five years ago the eastern third of Ne- braska, now so thrifty in agriculture, would have been mapped in the same way even as Long and Pike did sixty and seventy years ago. Passing from northwestern Nebraska into Da- kota, one continues in these Bad Lands, so called, and may traverse a region of them, right and left and to the eastward and northerly of the Black Hills, as large as Massachusetts. Primeval vol- canic action and the abrasion by the weather for long centuries have left pyramid rocks, as in the Garden of the Gods, and wild ravines and gulches. The buttes, pyramids, or mounds take on all forms, and some the height of one hundred and fifty feet. The soil is fertile, sometimes to excess, and tlie high mesas, as well as the intervales, are covered with heavy grasses, and by their attraction to grazing animals make the region quite a game- park. The careless interchange of the terms "Bad Land" and "desert," as if the two were synony- THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 119 mons, has doue mncli to mislead, and to give the impression that the Bad Lands are barren. This is far £rom fact, and the error has arisen from the only partial adoption of the title that the early trapping aud trading French voyagcurs gave to these weird lands. Because of the gulches and little canons that intersect them, and from the fatty, sticky, "gumbo" quality of the soil, they found it quite difticult to travel there with ponies and pack animals, and therefore named such re- gions mauvaises terres pour traverser. Writers and geographers^ have taken by abbreviation the first half only of the phrase, and so have applied the word " bad " to the soil, whereas it belongs only to the pony-trail through it. The library of errors which we have been glean- ing is exceedingly interesting reading, as in con- trast with the existing facts. The old authors come to view, much as the fossils of extinct races in a cabinet of natural history. To follow to-day, as we have, personally on the trail of Pike and Long and Irving, and find those innumerable herds, and grain-fields by the thousand acres, and magnificent cities, and railways in the " desert," carries one through the amazing into the amusing in official and literary works. It is among vivid and happy memories that w^e once rode in a prairie wagon sixteen miles through continuous wheat-fields of individual and German farms ; and by cars through one wheat-farm of thirty thousand acres, affording 120 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." six hundred thousand bushels a year ; and thirty minutes, by the held watch, at fair railroad speed, along a field of corn undivided by any fence or opening, — ten miles of corn! These were on Pike's barren frontier, providentially interposed to keep the young republic from spreading there to its ruin, and on portions of Long's regions " bearing a manifest resemblance to the deserts of Siberia." This corn and wheat were west of the meridian of the mouth of the Platte, described by Greenhow, as late as 1845, as " uninhabitable by a people depending upon agriculture." Nor are the three grain-regions, visited and insjjected, excep- tional and selected. They are incidental to any of the great north and soutli thoroughfares be- tween the two Eed Eivers of the United States, — tlie Manitoban and the Texan. These grains and herds are in the " arid tract extending south nearly to Texas," according to the " Westminster Eeview," which tract, tlie " Edinburgh " said, had " a general breadth of six hundred or seven hundred miles, and extends from south to north nearly fourteen hundred miles." It is the same Great American Desert which to-day is putting cereals and meat within the reach of hungry Europe. And yet, as late as 1873, this same American Desert is made to reappear on the more advanced points of settle- ment, somewhat broken by arable land, extending from Mexico to the British line. Like the old military narratives, it is set forth by a soldier and THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 121 "described from personal observation extending through fourteen years of military service on the plains." The article ^ is a record of extended travel, and embraces much valuable information, with this just and general caution ; " There are, of course, in so summary an account, many fine sec- tions of limited extent which could not be noticed in a sketch which undertakes to give only general characteristics." The General takes and states clearly his position, like an old soldier that he is : — " That the western limit of our agricultural lands has already been reached (1873) by settle- ments along the frontier from the Eio Grande to the forty-ninth parallel of latitude. . . . We have reached the border all along from Dakota to Texas, where land for nothing is no cheaper than good land at thirty dollars an acre. . . . From the one hundredth meridian to the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there is not more than one acre to the hundred that has any appreciable value for agricultural puiposes, or that will for the next hundred years sell for any appreciable sum. Moreover, for one hundred miles before reaching that meridian there is compara- tively little good land. ... It is possible that at 1 The Great Middle Eegion of the United States, and its Limited Space of Arable Land. By Gen. W. B. Hazen, North American Review, January, 1875. 122 THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." some remote period the good lands of the country may be so densely populated as to cause many to seek a precarious existence by such meagre farming as is possible in this region. . . . We must soon face a condition of facts utterly new in tlie economy of the country, when not new but old States must make room for the increase of population." The north and south line, therefore, according to General Hazen, along which tillable land disap- pears mostly on the east of it, and land without any appreciable value for agriculture takes posses- sion mostly of the west of it, — a line dividing in a general way between the fertile and the barren, — would start on the British border near Pembina and run near Yankton, Dakota ; Ellsworth, Kansas ; and by Wichita through Texas. On the west of the Mississippi the General gives the area of this worthless land, of course only by a general esti- mation, in this way : Of Dakota, excepting a few small fertile strips, he says that not one acre in a hundred is fit for agriculture. One half only of Nebraska and of Kansas he concedes to the farmer ; one acre in twenty-five in Colorado ; one in seventy in New Mexico ; and one in eighty in Arizona. " The whole amount of arable land in Utah is so very small as scarcely to admit of comparison." Yet elsewhere this writer gives " slightly over a hundredth of the area as arable." It is the half of Kansas west of the meridian of Fort Hayes that THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 123 the General places in the list of desert lands. Of California this strong remark is made : " About one third of the western half of the State is available, while not more than a twentieth of the eastern part can be used by any of the pro- cesses of farming which will be used in America for a hundred years to come," Montana, he estimates, has about one million of acres of fine land for the farmer out of her ninety- two millions. The fertile and inviting valley of the Yellowstone, as it is generally understood, General Hazen pronounces "a mytli." One half of Texas he regards as dry, broken, and barren country, and unfit for agriculture. Nearly or quite one half of the Indian Territory on tlie west is surrendered as too dry and barren to till. Nevada is classed with Utah in general description, having " only the merest patches of arable land," with tlie estimate of not more than one acre to the hundred. Idaho follows Montana in the general outlines of quality for a farming population, or about one to a hundred of arable land. In passing from Idaho into Oregon and Washington, our author looks in vain for the " broad, rich valley of the Columbia." This river, he says, chafes through mountain gorges, with here and there a valley, along which, if a trail be possible, " the wheels cut into a loose, arid sand, with here and there a sage-bush so large as to have grown into a shrub with a stalk several 124 THE " tIREAT AMERICAN DESERT." inches in diameter, and extending its brandies over several yards of ground. We find these gen- eral features of a broken, mountainous country till we cross the Sierra." This leaves about two thirds of Oregon and Washington to be added to the arid, rocky, and desolate regions which General Hazen has been collecting and sketching in his article in the " North American." After this manner, in per cents and descriptions, General Hazen passes in review fifteen States and Territories. They aggregate about 1,760,000 square miles, of which he estimates about 350,000 square miles as arable, — only about one fifth of the whole. In the lands called arable he includes only those that are irrigable ; and so, after deduct- ing all that can in any ordinary circumstances be put under the plough, lie leaves in the region outlined about 1,410,000 square miles of territory that no j)rocesses of farming now known can utilize. The amount of desert or " bad " land is equal to about one hundred and seventy-five States as large as Massachusetts. The non-arable area of General Hazen is equal to the German Empire, France, Great Britain and Ireland, Italy, Spain, Sweden, Norway, Belgium, Portugal, Switzerland, Greece, and thirty-two Palestines. This article in the " North American " recalls at once the narr9,tives of the expeditions of Pike and Long and other explorers, who during this THE "GREAT' AMERICAN DESERT." 125 entire century have been furnishing our geogra- phers and our untravelled authors with materials for tlie Great American Desert. The historical germ of this Sahara appears in Jefferson's letter to Dupout, already quoted, in which he calls the tract desired " a barren land." As a rule agricnlturists are not good military engineers, and would do but poorly in locating military roads and forts. Is it not possible that military men would be equally unfortunate in dis- covei'ing agricultural lands and in locating farms ? At least, it remains to be explained why officers of the army, in their reconnoissances, reported the original and wild lands now making Iowa, Minne- sota, Missouri, Kansas, and Arkansas as naturally unfit for human habitation. A possible explana- tion may lurk in this grave confession of General Hazen : — " The Government has, year after year, at great expense, sent parties of scientific men to traverse these countries ; to gather up, describe, and publish all that could be found out relative to beasts, birds, insects, and fishes, and every conceivable creeping, crawling, or flying creature ; also correct reports of its geology. But I have never known any one cliarged to learn and report that most important of all items, ' whether it is good for agriculture.' " In calling public attention to this vast amount, as he estimates it, of desert land and bad laud, 126 THE "GllEAT AMERICAN DESERT." iiiiiuliabitable for various reasons, General Hazen dwells prominently on the great northern belt from the Mississippi Valley to the Pacific. It is due to him to say that in his judgment " military or State considerations seem sufficient to warrant the construction of one road [railroad] which, for many reasons should have been built along the thirty-second parallel, as it probably would have been had the South been represented in Congress." In his hostility to the Northern Pacific the author permits himself to speak of its advertisements as containing "more or less positive falsehoods; issu- ing a series of misrepresentations of the climate;" and that eight years before, when in the valley of the Yellowstone, he " saw the iniquity of the whole scheme." Jefferson Davis when Secretary of War (1853-57) had a similar hostility to a North- ern railway and an approbation for a Southern one from the Mississippi to the Pacific. Under his direction Lieutenant Stevens made a survey of the northern country, and the official report of it was so favorable and tempting to immigration, from its rich natural resources, and so inviting to a trans-continental railroad, that the Secretary muti- lated it before publication lest it should damage his Southern policy and his schemes for a railroad on the thirty-second parallel. Afterward, when Mr. Davis was otherwise very busy in the Civil War, the suppressed portions of the report were published. THE "GIIEAT AMERICAN DESEltT." 127 Be the explanation what it may, as to this pre- sentation of so much so-called worthless land in our Northwest, the fact confronts us tliat farmers, with wagons and ploughs and families, have car- ried their surveys into tliese fabulous barrens and deserts, and liave converted them into the most magniiicent farming lands in the world. At last the Government appears to have conquered fable and legend, for it luis followed up this myth of a " desert " as a retreating mirage and finally located what little of substance it has. On the Govern- ment map of 1882, based on the public surveys and issued from the General Land Office, this much-magnified and long-sought waste is placed on the southwest of Salt Lake and somewhat bordering it. The barren tract is mucli less than twice the area of our smallest State, Ehode Island, — 1,085 square miles, — and bears the name so long a terror in our own country and in Europe, — Great American Desert ! Under the immigrant invasion and pressure of farmers, mechanics, manufacturers, and merchants, with schools and churches and colleges and legislatures and courts and elections, this spectre has retreated thirteen hundred miles from the west bank of the Mississippi. It remains to be seen whether the retreat will be continued, even in the face of offi- cial reports to the contrary, as it has thus far been made to retreat. In the late elaborate and valuable report of 128 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." Major J, W. Powell/ he says as to agriculture : " Experience teaches that it is not wise to depend upon rainliill where the amount is less than twenty inches annually," and this should be distributed with some evenness through the year. The border- line of this twenty-inch rainfall " begins on the southern boundary of the United States, about sixty miles west of Brownsville, on tlie Itio Grande del Norte, and intersects the northern boundary about fifty miles east of Pembina." The westward growth of the nation since 1803, and especially since the locomotive arrived first on the Mississippi and at Eock Island in 1854, makes US quite sceptical whether agriculture will respect Powell's line and pause on it. Hitherto it has not much regarded scientific and military limitations. Major Powell well says that "far too much atten- tion has heretofore been paid to tlie chemical con- stitution of soils, . . . and that a stranger entering the arid region is apt to conclude that the soils are sterile, because of their chemical composition ; but experience demonstrates the fact that all soils are suitable for agricultural purposes when prop- erly supplied with water." ^ As 5'et the supply of water for irrigating is but poorly utilized, and how much it can do but poorly known. A cubic foot of running water per second will make a hun- dred acres fruitful, and the water-slied on either 1 Arid Lands of the United States. 1879. •^ Ibid, p. 10. THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 129 slope of the Eocky Mountains and Sierras is pro- vided with many and magnificent streams. It is to be hoped that the Government will move in good time to prevent liuge water monopolies in our deep interior, since it has been somewhat too late in preventing land monopolies. A national water otiice as well constituted and managed as the land office might do much in handling and distributing equitably to private owners those magnificent streams that flow east and south and west from the Eocky Mountains and the Sierras, and thus finally make those arid and desert lands to rejoice and blossom as the rose. Moreover, the increase of the water supply when a country is opened by settlement has an important bearing on this subject. That this increase does take place should be conceded. In his report Major Powell embraces Gibert's report on the water supply of the interior. Gibert says that the settlers " frequently told me that whenever and wherever a settlement was established there fol- lowed in a few years an increase of water supply." Prof. Cyrus Thomas made a careful study of the increase of the water supply at the western edge of the plains in 18G9, and Dr. Ilayden thus reports him in his " Eeport for 1867-69," pp. 237 : " Since the Territory [Colorado] has begun to be settled, towns and cities built up, farms cultivated, mines opened, and roads made and travelled, there has been a gradual increase of moisture." 130 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." Concerning the Catliolic Missions in New Mexico and California Major Powell says : " In this history of the settlement of tlie several districts an important fact has been uniformly observed, — in the first years of the settlement tlie streams have steadily increased in volume. . . . The increase is abundantly proved ; it is a matter of universal experience. Tlie observa- tions of the writer thereon have been widely extended." ^ The Utah basin furnishes a bold illustration of this increase of water, be the cause what it may. Between 1850 and 1860 Great Salt Lake made a steady and apparentty permanent gain of between seven and eight feet. It increased its area by overflow of its ancient shores from 1750 square miles to 2166, — a gain of about seventeen per cent. Perhaps as careful a study of other arid yet occupied lands would show an encouraging increase of v/ater supply. Whether the increase is due to settlement or to some occult natural causes is a mooted question, but it is not philo- sophical to deny the facts because we cannot explain them. The practical thing is to see the twenty-inch water line and the front of an agri- cultural immigration move off westward /7a?'^ jjass?/, even as they have been doing to some extent for half a century. The grasses and the trees thrive beyond it, and why not the cereals and the vege- 1 Report, pp. 90, 91. THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 131 taLles, when man by the sweat of his face becomes auxiliary to Nature ? As to this rise of Salt Lake and tlie general increase of moisture in the arid districts, a gentle- man of intelligence, and resident in the great West beyond South Pass since 1852, and much of this time engaged in stock-ranching, gave the author this information, — other stock-men with whom he spent a month in the autumn of 1885 con- firming it : " Before the country was stocked the land was porous or opien, and absorbed the water that fell ; now, stocking has tramped and hardened it, and more of the water is retained on the sur- face or finds its way to Salt Lake. There are lakes and pools now where there were none for- merly, because of the tramping and hardening of the ground by stock." It is gratifying to be able to confirm these views, as to the increase of moisture in the arid districts of the West, by very recent information, carefully obtained by scientific and official observations : " Proofs of a growing rainfall in the far West are thickening. A valuable testimony in this direction just now comes from General ]\Iorrow, United States Army, in command at Fort Sidney. In an address delivered last month at the first annual fair in Cheyenne County, on the western frontier of Nebraska, he gave a leaf from his own experience. Twenty years before, he had led sol- diers through that identical reuion when there was 132 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." no settlement for five liundred miles east of Jules- burg. Then he had observed that men slept in the open air from May to November without having- their blankets dampened ; but in August, 1887, he saw on the same ground dews as heavy as ever at the same season in Michigan or Arkan- sas. During the first three fourths of the present year he reports the rainfall at his post to have been fourteen inches, while the annual fall in fertile Malta does not exceed fourteen, and that about Spanish Madrid is only nine. The annual amount of rain registered at Camp Douglas in its first year, 1861, was eleven inches; but in 1874, the last of five years during which General Morrow held command at that post, the rainfall had more than doubled, the rain-gauge showing twenty- seven inches. The speaker emphasized these facts, because in portions of the Cheyenne region the last two seasons have been exceptionally dry. He also showed that within the last three months eighty-three thousand acres of Government land had been taken up in that county, largely by homesteaders. The fair exhibits, also, already showed every variety of farm produce. These facts are the more noteworthy because Cheyenne County stretches four degrees west of the famous meridian of 100°, which in Government publica- tions figures as a line that agricultui'e cannot cross. They are still more striking if we note how they refute the doctrine laid down by the 'North Amer- THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT. loo icau Keview ' in 1858. At that date, wheu there was scarcely one Nebraska hamlet forty miles west of the Missouri, the ' Xorth American ' described our people as having ' already reached their west- ern inland frontier,' and the westward stream of emigration as there ' dammed up so that it must fork northward or southward.' The Missouri bluffs, accordingly, were described as ' ashore at the termination of a vast ocean desert nearly one thousand miles in breadth, which it was proposed to traverse, if at all, with caravans of camels, and which interposed a final barrier to the establishment of large communities, — agri- cultural, mercantile, or even pastoral.' Yet be- fore the close of 1880 Nebraska numbered half a million inhabitants." ^ It remains only to state, in a few brief sen- tences and in certain statistics not remarkably dry to an American, and especially one of the Western type, what has been done in the way of settling and civilizing this " desert." It was the opinion of Lieutenant Pike that immigrants would be compelled from very barrenness to limit their wanderings " to the borders of the Missouri and Mississippi, while they leave the prairies, inca- pable of cultivation, to the wandering and uncivil- ized aborigines of the country." This Government explorer abandons to natural isolation and to the 1 The Nation, Nov. 3, 188". 134 THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." American Ijodouins our territory l)et\\'een the Brit- ish line and southern Arkansas, aud west from the ]Mississi])])i to the mountains. Tliis quadrant now embraces Minnesota, Dakota, Iowa, Nebraska, Mis- souri, Kansas, Arkansas to the Indian Territory, — an area in total equal to nine New Englands. As the latter — a region as large as eiglit States like Massachusetts and organized solely for Indian oc- cupation in 1844 — has not been open and exposed tu white development, it cannot be embraced in the summary of facts to follow. It may be said, how- ever, in this connection that its equal development is merely a question of time, for in some explora- tions of it in 1880 we marked it as in no way inferior to Missouri for human homes, and there- fore may be occupied as densely as the other seven divisions. In a half-dozen or so of particulars it can now be shown how immigrants, M'ith their agricultural, meclianical, and manufacturing in- struments, have surveyed and rescued this region from military explorers and dismal congressional reports. Aggregating the population of tlie six States and one Territory named, when the re- spective census of each was first taken, it ap- pears that they all then had 472,040 inhabitants. Tlie total population of the seven in 1880 was 8,746,044. This is something more than one sixth of the population of the country, and more than double the population of New England, and a fair show for Pike's prairie regions "incapable THE " GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 135 of cultivation," and Long's "abode of perpetual desolation." The grain products of the quadrant in question, as reported in 1880 (for 1879), were 642,416,200 bushels. This is more than forty times the total amount of the same six grains in all New England for the same year. These grains are barley, buck- wheat, corn, oats, rye, and wheat. Nor is it in cereals alone that this desert land, so called, has shown its products. The cash value of its manu- factures is reported by the last census to have been $365,098,571 in the year 1879; and, what is much more significant, during the same year this region had in the public schools 1,567,164 pupils, — young " American Bedouins." IMinnesota is the northeast corner of the tradi- tional desert, and we think of it now mainly as a wheat-field ten times the area of Massachusetts. Yet note the timber item in its natural wealth. A belt of 3,200,000 acres of white and black oak, maple, hickory, basswood, cottonwood, elm, tama- rack, and other hard woods up to the number of thirty varieties, stretches across the middle of the State. In the northeast of it is an immense pine forest of 13,440,000 acres, — more than twice the number of acres in Massachusetts. By Act of Congress of March 3, 1877, certain lands were declared to be and named desert land, lying mostly to the westward of the mythical desert which we have been followinij. Tlie Act 136 THE "GREAT AMElilCAN DESERT." thus defines them : " All laiuls, exclusive of timber and mineral lands, which will not without irri- gation ])roduce some agricultural crop, are deemed and held to be desert land, under this Act." These lands are in demand. From March 3, 1877, the date of the Act, to June 30, 1883, 5,103 entries of such land were made, and the land-ofFice treasury- received for the same $401,036.62. This is the amount of the first payment of twenty-five cents an acre. When the final payment is made of one dollar an acre at the end of three years, the re- ceipts will be $2,008,346.84. Thousands of farms and homes have been introduced into such desert lands, and a network of railway is being thrown over the whole. For fifty years an army of agricultural invaders, crossing the Mississippi, have been crowding the Great American Desert toward the Pacific; and they have made annually the daily march of the Eoman army in its conquering progress. Lately our sci- entific explorers have discovered that this ghostly desert has been displaced by the best grain lands and timber lands and grazing lands and mineral lands of the world, it never having been more than a ghostly delusion. Tradition ascribes a remarkable act to Franklin. In one of those courtly halls and gatherings in Europe, where nobility and statesmanship and diplomacy were toying with the young Republic, there hung ^ map of the United States, with that THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT." 137 disheartening inscription curving from the Texan to the British border, — "The Great American Desert." Franklin took a pen and drew a broad erasing line through the title. Was it not a pro- phetic pen that Benjamin Franklin then used ? 138 LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER VII. LARGE LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. IT was at his own expense that De Soto, under the patronage of the Emperor Cliarles V., undertook the conquest of Florida. The Florida of that day was all of the present United States south of New York and of its southern parallel of latitude, and extended into the unknown West. De Soto was, by royal commission, to be the civil and military head of both Cuba and this Florida, and he was to have a princely estate somewhere in this country, fifteen leagues by thirty in extent. It was in 1538 that the gallant invader set sail with a band, Spanish and Portuguese, of nine hun- dred and fifty men, young and vigorous, and with scarcely a gray hair, bearing away a freight of am- bitions to the New World. Four years and two months later, at midnight, De Soto came stealthily into the possession of a grave in the Mississippi, twenty miles below the mouth of tlie Arkansas. This magnificent gift of twenty-five nnllion of acres within the present t^irritory of the. United States was an august opening to a most remark- able series of land-iirants in North America. We LAXDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 139 stand amazed at tlie amplitude of tlie imperial gift and at the area of the personal and private domain of the great immigrant if he shall ever come in possession. Yet for about three hundred and fifty years this series of immense gifts and acquisitions has been running. The grants of land by the Spanish, French, and English crowns to individuals and to companies in those old eras of discoveries and of colonies were on so grand a scale that one might almost think of those nion- archs as silent partners when the dry land was made to appear during the creative days. And the amazement stirred by the size of those possessions of two and three centuries ago would be repeated to-day, in view of the immense personal and cor- porate land estates now acquired and held in our country, if they were not abundant enough to be common and of constant multiplication. It would be foreign to the purpose of this chapter to give even a partial list of these grants made prior to the establishment of our Government. Yet a few may be named, indexes to the whole, to accomplish our object, — to impress on the reader the immensity of the national domain, and the equal immensity of our patriotic and Christian obligation to develop it as a young nation with proper qualities. Of the earliest grants in colonial times a few may be named. In 1622 the Great Council for New En "land firanted to Gorges and Mason all the 110 LANDKOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. land between the Merriinac and the Kennebec, and for sixty miles inland from the mouths of these rivers. Some two years before, Gorges had the project to gain a tract forty miles square on the Kennebec and Androscoggin. The old Saxon sjreed for land and the passion for speculating in wild lands showed early development in this country. Robert Gorges, the son of Sir Ferdinando, gained a tract extending from Boston ten miles toward Salem ; and to the grandson of Sir Ferdinando there was granted a tract of twenty-four thousand acres on both sides of York River, Maine, on the condi- tion that he should found a city within the same. In 1629 the land between the middle of the Aler- rimac and the middle of the Piscataqua, and for sixty miles inland, with all islands within five leagues of the shore, was given by this Great Council for New England to Capt. John Mason. The famous Waldo patent, originally the Mus- cogus, being about thirty miles square, may also be mentioned. Within this grant Portland now stands. In 1629 the Council granted to Bradford all the territory between Cohasset River and tiie Narragansett, and inland as far as the utmost limits of Pokenacutt. Nor was the passion for wild land in large bodies in those earlier days free from " irregularities " even in New England. For in 1676 Robert Mason petitioned the king to be put in possession of lands granted to his grandfather, and he represented that lANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 141 the Massachusetts Company "did surreptitiously and unknown to the said Council get the Seal of the said Company affixed to a grant of certain lands," and so obtained confirmation of the same to themselves under the Great Seal of England. The Massachusetts Company, however, entered a denial, and some late antiquarian students assure tlie writer that the Company is not open to such an accusation.^ An index to the policy of the Massachusetts Colony may be taken from its records December 10, 1641: "Mrs. Marg* Winthrope hath her 3,000 acres of land formerl}^ granted to her, to be as- signed about the lower end of Concord Eyver, near Merrimack." ^ It was in 1669 that John Alexander paid six thousand pounds of tobacco for nine miles of river front nearly opposite to the present District of Columbia ; and soon after the great-grandfather of Washington bought seven thousand acres in and around Mount Vernon, — tluis early aiding the foundation of the large Washington estate of later CD O days. The acquisition of portions of Mexico, or New Spain., by tiie United States in the treaties of 1848 and 1853 makes it proper to notice some of the 1 History oC Grants, under the Great Council for New Eng- land. By Samuel P. Haven. Lowell Institute Lectures, 1869. Published by Massachusetts Historical Society, 1869, pp. 128- 162. 2 See Mass. Records, June li, 1612. 142 LANDIIOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. large landlioldiiigs tliat tlicn came into our domain. By those treaties the United States guaranteed tlie private ownership of grants from the previous Spanish and Mexican Governments tliat could be legally established to the satisfaction and coniir- mation of Congress. These grants in New Spain were personal and private, and were made by the Spanish kings and Mexican governors to their favorites, and also for purposes of colonization, in dates running back from 1846 to the earliest supremacy of Spain in the country. To the Eastern American whose life and travels have been confined mainly to his " pent-up Utica," the first knowledge of the extent of these grants is simply overwhelming, and he begins at once to reconstruct his ideas of spaces in the United States. Nor will this reconstruction come any too soon to those who intend to bear a manly hand in shaping the empire of the future. For the interest of such, we devote a page to the number and extent, not exhaustive, of landhold- ings or grants which had their origin in foreign governments, and which the United States guar- anteed when the lands in whicli the grants lay came into our possession. Tliey came within tlie dominion of the United States by the purchase of Louisiana and of Florida, and by the acquisition of New Mexico and California. In California " the United States has confirmed five hundred and thirty-eiglit claims, having a LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 143 total acreage of 8,332,431 acres, — tlie smallest being one acre and seventy-seven one hundred tlis. and tlie largest 133,440 acres." ^ These confirmed claims equal one and three fifths States as large as Massachusetts. The claims in Florida amount to about 1,300,000 acres, only a few of which have been patented. In Louisiana about ten thousand claims have been confirmed, but not one in ten has yet been patented. While the commissioners may " confirm " the claim, the " patent " or absolute title must come from Congress, and it by no means grants a patent to all lands when the commis- sioners have " confirmed " the claims. To June 30, 1883, twelve claims had been reported to Congress from Arizona, aggregating 188,179 acres. At the same date twenty-five claims, equalling 1,913,301 acres, had been confirmed in New Mexico and Colorado. These claims continue to come in, as Congress did not limit the time of their presentation, and the officials say that " no one can estimate the number of private land-claims yet to be filed," — it may be one thousand or it may be five thousand. They urge upon Government the necessity of lim- iting tlie time in which clainis may be presented, to head off the modern manufacture of ancient titles. The forgeries have been very many, and these, with other irregularities, liave opened tliose 1 The Public Domain. By Thomas Donaldson. Washing- ton, Govevnment Printing Office. 1884. p. 381. lU LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. old Spanish regions to the inavandiii;^ of land- thieves on the most extravagant scale. The Com- missioner of the General Laud Office, in his Eeport for 1883, furnislies an illustrative case : " An in- stance has been called to my attention where the original claim was for a quautity of land shown upon a plat presented to the Surveyor-General as containing one square league, or less than five thousand acres, and described as having fixed natural boundaries, which claimants stated were well known and easily identified. And yet, upon the assignment of tliis claim to other parties, a pre- liminary survey was obtained, purporting to show identically the same boundaries, but embracing an area exceeding three hundred thousand acres." ^ There has been much lively work over doubtful papers and witnesses, before the congressional committees on claims under the treaties, to estab- lish rights to these grants. In 1880 the Secretary of the Interior reported : " After a lapse of nearly thirty years, more than one thousand claims have been filed with the Surveyors-General, of which less than one hundred and fifty have been reported to Congress ; and of the number so reported Con- gress has finally acted upon only seventy-one." This appears to show the condition of things in New Mexico. Very likely many more claimants are waiting till " available " men may be offered to pass on them. Meanwhile the unconfirmed grants 1 Tlie Public Domain, p. 11.^6. LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 145 are in the market by the tens of thousands of acres at three cents and upward per acre. The pressures and dangers attending these duties are not so great as at first. Prior to 1860 the Commission labored under the mistake that the confirmation of an offered title would carry with , it all mineral in the land. It was then discovered that the Spanish and Mexican authorities made special reservation to the Government of all the precious metals, and that therefore all title to them vested in the United States after the treaties, and not in the grantees and their heirs. This mistake of the Commission is not so surprising when we consider how distant and difficult of access New Mexico was. David Douglass, scientific explorer in the northwest of America, 1824-34, says in his narrative : " The caravan, which leaves St. Louis, on the Missouri, about the end of May next, will reach Santa F^ in about sixty-five days." This time was reduced slowly ; for the first locomotive reached the Mississippi at Eock Island in 1854, and St. Louis in 1857, and St. Joseph (on the Mis- souri) in 1859, and Santa F^ in 1880. In those days American recreating travel was mostly abroad, and " the bounds to a new empire," as Washington prophetically spoke of our interior in 1783, were not much passed and studied till the railroads made it comparatively easy. It is now but a decade of years, as the writer knows, when he was regarded as singular and daring who ran a few 10 1-iG LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. thousand miles up and down a log-cabined and mining and Indian interior, and he had much of the new and strange to tell on his return. Now, with frequent and large and charming "excursions," there is more hope for the " new empire." It may not be considered as wandering from our historical line of large landholdings, to mention here the twenty-one Franciscan Missions on the coast of California. The first was planted in 17G9 and the last in 1823. They were established on grants from the Spanish Crown, and embraced the entire coast from San Diego to San Francisco, about five hundred miles, and extended inward forty miles, and their average area was about six hundred thousand acres. While planted ostensibly for Christianizing the Indians, these Missions made almost slaves of them while they seemed to be evangelizing them ; and the San Francisco Mis- sion in 1825 owned seventy-six thousand head of cattle, seventy-nine thousand sheep, and three thousand horses, while their red and white wines were of high repute. Of these, the Mission of San Gabriel produced annually from four to six hundred barrels. These ranch Missions had at one time 18,683 Indians under their control, and used them as servants and workmen. In 1821 Mexico assumed independence of Spain, and as the Mis- sion policy for California failed to either civilize or Christianize the natives, the Missions began to be broken up by Government in 1826. LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 147 This reference to large land-grants in California should not omit a vast one projected and well- nigh secured. During the two or three lively years before that Pacific territory became a part of the United States, the English were ambitious and scheming for it. The English consul, Forbes, contracted with one Macnamara, an Irish priest, to colonize California, overthrow the Mexican Gov- ernment, and then put it under an English pro- tectorate. For this work the priest was to receive three thousand square leagues in the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys, — more than thirteen millions of acres. Governor Pico and General Castro, the civil and military heads of the prov- ince, were in the plot, and the papers were drawn, but not executed. This was in 1846. The papers fell into the hands of Frdmont in the spring of that year, and the splendid lands into the hands of the United States soon afterward. The allusion to one other Spanish grant should not be omitted, for it sustains interesting relations to the United States. In 1786 Julien Dubuque, an energetic Canadian, explored the lead-mine regions of the Upper Mississippi. Two years after- ward he returned and purchased of the Indians, in council, about one hundred and forty thousand acres, on which Dubuque now stands, and in 1796 the Baron de Carondelet, Spanish Governor of the Upper Louisiana, conveyed the same substantially to Dubuque, and the king confirmed the grant. 148 LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. It embraced nominally three leagues on the river and six into tlie interior; and it was the gift of a Spanish king to a French subject. By partnership in purchase the property came to be known as the Dubuque-Chouteau claim, and the fee simple was declared, only twenty years ago, to vest in the United States, since the king origi- nally, and the baron following him, had granted only a right to hunt and work minerals on the claim, so called. In the ambitious and good policy of France to acquire and hold the Lower Mississippi Valley, immigration was encouraged to it by fascinating grants of land. Industrious, enterprising, and in- fluential men received offers of large tracts of land in the bottoms of the Mississippi and its tributa- ries. The largest of these were on the main river and within three hundred miles of New Orleans, and others were on the Red and the Wichita, the Yazoo and the Arkansas. In his "History of the Mississippi Valley" Monette specifies fif- teen of these grants with the conditions annexed.^ Leading among the grantees was the Scotchman John Law, author and finisher of the Mississippi Bubble, — a paper-money inflation, 1718-23. His grant was twelve miles square on the Arkan- sas. Law stipulated to colonize the Arkansas with fifteen hundred emigrants from Provence, in France, and to keep up a sufficient military 1 Vol. i. p. 220 et seq. LANDHOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 149 force for their protection against Indian lios- tility." Daring the six speculative years of Law he introduced into Louisiana 4,044 settlers, 1,441 African slaves, — the first introduction of slaves to the lower Mississippi, — one hundred and fifty galley slaves, and several hundred females of ill repute. The bubble burst in 1723, and the first slave insurrection in this country occurred six years afterward.^ The curious, who may wish to know the details in this early American land fever, will find many illustrative cases in Martin's " Louisiana." ^ In these schemes to gain and hold the Great Valley the French Government imitated the Span- ish in the grants already named. The English Crown followed the French in the policy of be- stowing on royal favorites immense tracts of wild land in the New World. In 1748 the Crown granted to the Ohio Company six hundred thou- sand acres, with the coming Pittsburg for a central post, as a semi-military advance force to crowd the French to a farther West. This was accomplished in 1758, when the French retreated and built Fort Massac, on the Ohio, forty miles above its mouth, — the last stronghold built by France east of the IVIississippi. The same year the English rebuilt Fort Duquesne, burned by the French, and called it Fort Pitt. ^ Monette, vol. i. p. 220 et scq. 2 Vol. i. p. 202 et circ. 150 LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. Afterward, yet prior to 1757, and with the approbation of the Crown, the provincial govern- ment issued script and military warrants to the amount of tliree million acres, on and about the headwaters of the Ohio. The grant to the Ohio Company was only one of many, some being earlier and some later. The liberal disposition of the public lands was manifested in the colonial legislature of Virginia in 1770 and following, as already mentioned. In 1787 the Ohio Land Company, a new company, obtained from Congress grants of wild land ag- gregating nearly five million acres. In this the company acted also as agent for other organiza- tions, and finally retained as its own 964,285 acres. In the following year John Cleaves Symmes, of New Jersey, purchased of the Government six hundred thousand acres, as before mentioned. Near the close of the last century William Bing- ham, banker, of Philadelphia, became by two pur- chases one of the heaviest landholders in the United States. At the close of the Eevolution, when the finances of the country were in a desper- ate condition, and the hardy soldiers had been paid off in paper, of which sometimes one silver dollar would buy two hundred, Governor Hancock, of Massachusetts, suggested that State lands in the Province of Maine be sold to pay the State war debts. The legislature instituted a lottery by which to dispose of fifty townships beyond the LAXDHOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 151 Penobscot, at fifty cents an acre. The scheme was not popular. The total of land offered was 1,270,670 acres, of which only 105,280 acres were drawn. This was in October, 1787. Mr. Bingham took the balance, and afterward bought in the most of what was drawn. Some little time after- ward General Knox, one of the staff of General Washington, contracted for about a million acres — forty-three townsliips — on the upper waters of the Kennebec, and in 1793, by the consent of Massachusetts, he transferred this contract to Mr. Bingham. About two and a half million acres of Maine lands thus came into the hands of Mr. Bingham, for which he paid cash down, $311,250. The average cost per acre for these ninety-three townships was twelve and a half cents. To develop tlie Province and guard against speculation, the State provided that no title should be conveyed for any township, even though paid for, till it was occupied by forty settlers. This general policy governed Bingham and all other purchasers. The sales by Mr. Bingliam, who died in 1800, and by his agent, Col. John Black, were slow. For the first thirty-five years there was not enough of the Kennebec lands sold to pay the taxes. Of the lottery tract, enough land and timber were sold during that time to meet taxes and expenses. At the end of forty-two years from the purchase enough had been sold to cover the purchase- money, interest, taxes, and expenses. In 1828 a 152 LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. few townships were sold at auction at seventy-five and seventy -six cents an acre. Then the " Eastern land fever " was created, and timber-lands were sold and resold till they reached the wild price of eight and even ten dollars an acre, and the Missis- sippi Bubble was repeated in the Kennebec and Penobscot bubbles. A fact foreign to our main thought will interest the curious. Two of Mr. Bingham's five daugh- ters married two of the Baring brothers, English bankers. One of these gentlemen was William, afterward Lord Ashburton, wlio lias gained an eminence in American liistory, in the Webster- Ashburton Treaty, by which our international boundary was settled from the St. Croix to the Rocky Mountains. "When, therefore, William Bar- ing, in 1842, was determining the eastern section of that boundary, he was well-nigh at home, if not actually on lands liis own by marriage.^ In our earlier days there were bold movements and manoeuvres and seizures, under cover of law, to take large portions of the public wild domain, even as sometimes to-day. Georgia claimed south on latitude 31°, west to the Mississippi, which was, indeed, the treaty line between the United States and the Spanish possessions. But between the western boundary of the State of Georgia and the ' Collections Maine Historical Society, 1876, vol. vii. pp. 353-360; Williamson's History of Maine, vol. ii. p. 531 ; Varney's Gazetteer; Greenleafs Geography of Maine. LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 153 Mississippi was a large territory extending north to the mouth of the Yazoo and occupied by about ten thousand Spanish subjects. In disregard of treaty Spain claimed this, as did also Georgia in disregard of her western State limit. The Spanish authorities refused to yield the territory in ques- tion, and even forbade immigration into it from the States. The question lingered with multiply- ing perplexities from 1785 till 1795, when tlie Georgia legislature incorporated the Mississippi Company to take and hold these lands, now for ten years organized into Bourbon County. The charter gave the company more than three million acres of wild land, while about four million more •were involved in the intrigue. The year following, the legislature declared the charter forfeit, as ob- tained by corruption, and Congress set it aside as covering United States lands, over which the State had no control. The extent of the grasp and the fraud were not inferior to the endeavors of some rings of to-day. The same year in which this Georgia scheme was matured, a sharp one was put in operation in Virginia. Pittsburg was now about one year old by incorporation, with its one thousand inhabi- tants, when General Wayne's great victory on the Mauraee over the Indians, with their English allies, opened up the frontier beyond the Alleghany to safe settlements. Of course it was in the inter- est of the Government to have hardy pioneers 154 LANDH0LD1XC;S IN THE UNITED STATES. take possession, and Virginia offered strong temp- tations to buth capitalists and poor men. To a strong association of the former, entitled the " Population Company," she granted large tracts of wild land, on the condition that within a given time the company should locate, on any section of four hundred acres within the grant, an immigrant who should make and hold improvements to a certain extent. Then the company offered to war- rantee one hundred and fifty acres to any settler who would meet tliese conditions, and, for success- ful labor in this line, it would gain two hundred and fifty acres in each case. When the " Western fever" was running so high that it would require more effort to hold men back than to point tliem to the front, this shrewd speculation, incorporated and empowered by a well-lobbied legislature, was becoming a great success. Soon after the people saw through the policy of the company, who were speculating on the gift-lands of the Government, when tlie leijislature offered the four hundred acres direct to any settler who would meet the pre- vious conditions. Then this Population Company of land speculators complained that its " vested rights " were infringed. But the people had their way, to an extent. Some incautiously pre-empted on the company grants ; cases came into court, when the poor cabin settler stood no chance with a rich corporation ; ejectments and evictions fol- lowed, patterned from the Ireland and Scotland LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 155 of that day, till, harassed with expensive litigation, they threw up all claims and improvements, and moved farther west into the Connecticut Eeserve, where no lands were given away, and titles were guaranteed to purchasers. Large land sales for the development of a new country are not neces- sarily and totally advantageous to the interests of the people. The grants of public lands by the United States for canals, highways, and railroads must impress the most careless with the magnitude of the pub- lic domain, and its wonderful development. A statement of the vast areas thus granted by the Government for public good might reasonably be discredited in any one of the twenty realms of Europe, Eussia excepted. For, to encourage the American people, in private corporations, to open up ways of travel on whicli they may go about the country and attend to their business, the Govern- ment has granted public lands to more than double the area of Great Britain and Ireland, or eight times the area of Scotland. Washington practi- cally inaugurated our system of internal improve- ments before he had sheathed the sword of the Ee volution. While the army lay on their arms at Newburgli, awaiting the details of peace, he, with Gov. George Clinton, made what proved to be the first reconnoissance for the Erie Canal. After Independence was conceded, Washington made his seventh trip over the mountains, gratify- 15G LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. ing to au extent what he said after the expedition with Governor Clinton : " I shall not rest con- tented till I have explored the western country, and traversed those lines, or a great part of them, which have given bounds to a new empire." ^ Yet many American travellers make their seventh trip to Europe before they have made their first to " ex- plore the western country and the bounds of a new empire." These excursions of Washington initiated the Baltimore and Ohio liailroad, and indeeil the great system of internal improvement which has since so developed the country. On this branch of our general topic, in showing where and what the West is, details would be impossible if not useless. Summaries must suffice. One of the severest civil and political struggles of the Government opened in 1803, on the ques- tion to what extent the general Government should aid in opening in the new country highways for travel and commerce. The first grant of wild land had been made the previous year in favor of Ohio for public roads, and the first for a canal was in favor of Indiana in 1824. From that date to June 30, 1883, Government has granted and pa- tented for canal purposes 4,424,073 acres ; to the same date for wagon roads, 1,741,897 acres ; to railroads, 47,004,043 acres, making a total of 53,170,013 acres. Tliis amount of public land, that has been thus donated and passed over into ^ Irving's Washington, vol. vi. pp. 432-434, 455-459. LA.NDH0LD1NGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 157 private companies, is equal to all New England, and two States as large as Massachusetts addi- tional. The breadth and vastness of the national domain, and the very extensive and rapid develop- ment of it, must impress one who entertains even for a few moments these offers and conveyances of wild land. A few cases in contrast will show how the pub- lic land policy has expanded as the people have come to comprehend the magnitude of our domain. In 1835 Congress granted to a Florida company for a railroad a right of way through the public lands, thirty feet on each side of its line, with use of timber three hundred feet on each side, and ten acres for the terminus. The next year Congress granted to the New Orleans and Nashville Eailroad Company five acres together for each necessary depot, water station, and workshop, and the grants must be located at least fifteen miles apart. In 1862 Congress incorporated the Union and Central Pacific Railroads to run from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean, about two thousand miles, and for depots, shops, and aid in construction the road was to have every alternate square mile, for five miles deep, on each side of the road. This would secure the donation of land equal to a strip five miles wide from the Missouri to the Pacific. In 1864 the Northern Pacific was chartered to run from Lake Superior to the Pacific Ocean, about two thousand miles. The grant of land was equal 158 LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. to a belt ten miles wide, where the road should run through a State, and twenty miles wide in a Territory, — about forty-two million acres, — and equal to llhode Island, Connecticut, and seven States like Massachusetts. It is true the road failed to secure so much land by failing to fill the conditions ; but the immensity of the grant is tlie same, suggestive of the immensity of the public domain. As the settlements have made growth into our wild country, different business interests have often had each a movement of its own, and enough to constitute a special population for a given belt and time. At first the fur trade led the advance of white men, yet only here and there, as wild animals and Indian hunters offered gain. An agri- cultural front showed itself everywhere, pioneering and supporting, as it does, all the other industries of civilization. In some sections the lumber-mills, with a peculiar class of people, moved solidly into the timbered sections and devoured the forests by thousands of acres. The coal mountains took to themselves a population unlike any other, and in 1848 the precious metals gathered adventurers from the whole world, who ignored a border by substi- tuting the interior for it, and dropped towns and cities on the mountains and in the canons, with the hurry and random of the wind when it is sowing wild seed. The last great interest that has orsanized and LANDHOLDIXGS IN THE UXITED STATES. 159 manifested itself, as not only continental but inter- national, is ranciiing, stock-raising. Wild lands, not yet fringed with lone cabins and settlements, and stretching every way to the horizon, with the amplitude of the ocean, men have taken for grazing purposes. At first these great American pastures were as free to the herder as the rivers which watered them. Some hint had been given toward this industry by the immense ranches of California and South America that earned fortunes to the owners in hides and tallow only. No one gains a tolerable idea of the amplitude of our do- main, and of the leading interests that employ and feed seventy millions of people in it, who has not received quite an amount of compact information on ranching in the United States, and bestowed some close considerations on it. It is designed now to call attention to enough of these ranches here and there to impress the reader with the vastness of a country where men can turn loose for grazing ten thousand, fifty thousand, and even one hundred thousand head of stock in single pastures. Of course the figures must be given in a round way, since there is no official State or National enumeration of the acres and tlie animals in these vast estates. Sample cases will be taken miscellaneously, and only -enough to illustrate the point in hand.^ ^ The terms " range," " ranch," and " farm " are used in the new country with this discrimination : The range is a large tract IGO LANDllOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. In April, 1883, a Scotchman opened a ranch of forty-eight square miles — about thirty thousand acres — eiglity miles west of Topeka, Kansas. Seventy miles of wire fencing were soon com- pleted, a part of which enclosed a five hundred- acre lot for hogs. At the end of the first year the ranch had twenty-five thousand head of cattle, six hundred hogs, and two hundred and twenty- five yearling and colt mules. At that time there had been expended $100,000 for land, $100,000 for stock, and $25,000 for improvements. In 1884 there went into operation a contract for grazinij between three and four million acres of wild land west of the Arkansas, in the Cheyenne and Arrapahoe reservation. It was leased by the Indians to a company of stock-raisers for five years, on an annuity of $100,000, one half cash and one half live-stock. This is fine grazing- land, and had long been coveted by the border whites. The Indians, no doubt, were expected soon to make trouble, when the Government would remove them, and the land would pass of wild land used but not owned by individuals or companies but by the United States, for stock-raising ; the ranch is a large tract of country owned and used by one or more persons, usu- ally for grazing ; the farm is a small ranch, and more or less under cultivation. The writer lacks data to affirm that the term " ranch," as here used; implies in every case personal ownership. In estimating the extent of these ranges and ranches, it will be of aid to remember that the average town- ship of Massachusetts is about 15,000 acres, and the perfect Government town.ship of the West is 23,040 acres. LANDHOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 161 throngii a nominal market into ranch rings of white men. The cattle pasture in question is about seven hundred square miles larger than Connecticut. There is a range in Wyoming, called t])e Lake Voorhees cattle-range, embracing about a million of acres, forty thousand of which are enclosed by a sinole wire fence. This range would embrace about sixty of the average townships of Massachusetts. Some years since a ranchman by the name of Rabb, living near Corpus Christi, Texas, died and left to his widow about forty thousand head of cattle. She has distinguished herself by her good management of the herd, and has acquired tlie title of the cattle-queen of Texas. Of good physique, plain habits, fond of the saddle and outdoor life, and now the wife of a Methodist clergyman, Mrs. Rogers herds her forty thousand cattle on her two hundred thousand acres, in her own name and by her own management. When the widower, with seven children, married the widow and the herd, his health failed him as a clergyman, and he was obliged to quit preaching. Such cases are not uncommon, and should be a warning to unmarried and healthy ministers. He was unable for some reasons to take charge of the ranch, and fell off into politics and the legislature. Texas is supposed to have the lai-gest stock ranches in the United States, and probably the best in the world. Leading among them all is the 11 162 LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. cattle ranch of Charles Goodwright, on tlie head of Red River, It contains seven hundred thousand acres ; Rhode Island has eight hundred thousand acres. In 1883 it had sixty thousand liead of cattle, but will carry one liundred thousand. Though purchased within tlie last four years, it has two hundred and iilty miles of barbed wire fence. It has naturally the best grass and water and shelter. The stock is made up of the best foreign bloods for beef, and ranges high in the market for the table and for stocking other ranches. The purchase price of the land ranged from fifty cents to one dollar an acre, and the money was advanced by the partner of Goodwright, a Dublin millionnaire, who leaves Ireland annually to look after his American beef. In 1873 Goodwright was a heavy and speculating banker in Colorado, and in 1876 a bankrupt. In his best days he prudently endowed his wife with a herd of cattle, which after his failure he drove into this then wild and free land of Texas, and so recovered his fortune. ^ While Mr. Goodwright is said to have the best administered ranch in America, Richard King carries the palm for more acres and animals. His huge pasture lands are in two divisions fifty miles apart. Bordering on the Gulf coast of Texas he holds one hundred and sixty thousand acres, while in his inland tract are six hundred thousand. Re- ports vary as to his amount of stock, for lie does not know himself, and the assessors tax him at a LANDHOLDIXGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 163 guess. A receut estimate gives him from seventy- five thousaud to one hundred thousand cattle, thirty thousand sheep, and twenty thousand horses. His annual sales are about twenty thousand head of beef steers, three thousand to four thousand horses, and as many sheep. His income is about half a million. He entertains in a princely way in his village of neat cottages around his own lordly residence, — Santa Gertrude, — and princes and dukes are said to have been numbered among his guests. Other ranches for cattle might be named, as Kennedy's, near Corpus Christi, nine miles front on the bay, and extending forty-five miles into the interior. His large and original ranch he sold, before buying this small one, to a Dundee — Scotch — company for $2,500,000. There are also the ranch of Miller and Lux in California, where six hundred men are employed to take care of ninety-five thousand head of cattle and one hun- dred and ten thousand sheep, and the two ranches of Irvine in Los Angeles County, twenty-two miles by nine in joint extent. An extract here and there from private letters will give wider information on tliis point. A friend in Kansas, on the borders of the Indian Territory, writing of ranches, says : " Ours, which is a small one, has twelve miles of river front on both sides of the river. Lee and Scott have about forty miles on the Canadian. . . . Towers and 1G4 LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. Gudgell, on the Beaver and Cinnamon rivers, have also forty or mure miles. . . . There are several other quite large ranges in this vicinity." A party in the Southwest, answering certain questions on our general theme, has this compreiiensive passage in the reply : — " So far as our acquaintance goes, the largest landholders in the United States are the Maxwell Land Grant Company, 1,800,000 acres in New Mexico ; the Matador Cattle Company have about 600,000 acres in Texas ; the Texas Land and Cattle Company, about 400,000 acres in Texas ; the Prairie Cattle Company about 150,000 acres in Texas and New Mexico ; Mr. J. G. Adair, of Ireland, about 400,000 acres in Texas ; the Swan Lake and Cattle Company, about 250,000 acres in "Wyoming; the Hansford Land and Cattle Com- pany, about 110,000 acres in Texas; the Western Land and Cattle Company, about 70,000 acres in Kansas." It would be an easy thing to run these items up into scores, in the States and Territories west of the meridian of 100° ; but we are not collecting for a catalogue ; we cite cases only for illustrations of the public domain as shown by this branch of business. It seems quite in order, in illustrating the immense areas of our country, and some of its industrial productions on a gigantic scale, by refer- ence to personal ownerships, to pass from the ranch LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 165 to the farm. The former is grazed and the latter is cultivated. The one is worked for its products by the brute animal process of life, and the other by human hands and mechanics. California will serve well our purpose, since her extent, with a sea-board that would extend from New York to Charleston, South Carolina, affords nat- ural facilities for almost all the products in Ameri- can agriculture. In the southern division of that State we find, and without close and complete cull- ing, the following farms: Moftit & Maclay, 20,000 acres; E. J. Baldwin, 20,000; J. W. Hellman, 25,000 ; Eichard Gird, 30,000 ; J. & L. Bixbey, 30,000 ; B. F. & G. K. Porter, 36,000 ; H. M. New- hall, 48,000 ; J. Irvine, 48,000 ; Thomas R. Bard, 50,000 ; D. Freeman, 50,000 ; Lankersheim & Co., 56,000; John G. Downey, 75,000 ; James S. Flood, 137,000 ; General Beale, 200,000 ; Haggin & Carr, 300,000 ; Miller & Lux, 600,000 ; the late Dan Murphy farms, 16,000,000. Probably several of these combine the ranch and farm policy. Enough instances have been cited for the pur- pose in hand, and yet certain other conspicuous ones should not be omitted. Off the southern coast of California, and not far from Santa Barbara, lies an island about twenty-four by sixteen miles, called Santa Ptosa. This is owned by A. P. Moore, who has stocked it with eighty thousand sheep. About fifty shearers clip the wool twice a year, each man shearing about ninety sheep a day, and IGG LANDIIOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. tlie clip is four huiidrcd and fifteen thousand -pounds, returning to Mr. Moore about $112,000. In herding the sheep, trained goats are used in- stead of dogs, a goat leading the band, and a shepherd the goat. The sheep-rancli was pur- chased a few years ago for $600,000. Mr. Moore also has an interest in the Santa Cruz island ranch near by, of sixty four thousand acres and twenty-five thousand sheep. The well-known Dalrymple farm of Dakota should not be omitted in this connection. Its area is thirty thousand acres, and its product of wheat in 1881 was six hundred thousand bushels. The author well remembers seeing the first two square miles that were ploughed of this famous wheat-farm. It was in the autumn of 1875, and the virgin prairie had been turned over, three inches deep, in the preceding June. The black furrows lay up glossy in the October sun, as uniform and distinct as the threads in a web of silk. The next June those twelve hundred and eighty acres, a magnificent parallelogram, gave back thirty thou- sand bushels of wheat. It is said that recently Rufus Hatch, with some English capitalists, has purchased seven hundred and fifty thousand acres for stock-raising on the Yellowstone ; and if the Farwells and others have made the purchase reported, they are probably the largest landowners in the world. The purchase is made of the State of Texas, in its northeastern LANDHOLDINGS IN THE UNITED STATES. 167 section, and covers a territory of one hundred and ninety-seven miles in length, with an average width of twenty-seven miles, — a tract larger than Connecticut, or almost five times as large as Ehode Island. Such a land property casts the Jefferson estate quite in the shade as diminutive, though noted in the days of the third President. His Albemarle estate comprised 5,591f acres, his Pop- lar Forest was about the same, while his purchase that embraced the Natural Bridge was one hundred and fifty-seven acres. The preceding statements as to stock-farms, ranches, and ranges, may be presumed to be re- liable up to the date of writing ; but as they em- brace variable properties, titles and areas and amount of stock must be presumed to change with time. They serve fully, as they stand, the purpose of their introduction, — to illustrate the vastness of our public domain by showing the im- mensity of local and personal land interests. Had the territory of the United States been confined to the Atlantic slope north of Florida, as the English and French and Spanish combined to do in our first quarter-century, we should to-day be hemmed in by those and other European powers, much as if we were packed somewhere among the present twenty small realms of Europe. Since the above was written, the author has twice enjoyed wild freedom among the ranches 1 Report of Governor of Wyoming, 1885, p. 1181. 168 LANDHOLDINGS IN THK UNITED STATES. aud ranges of Wyoming and her two miliiou cattle, and of other Western regions. In the wan- derings there over illimitable plains, — American steppes or pampas, — the only guides and guards and enclosures were tlie foot-hills and the rivers. Ambitious Lot, the primitive cowboy, and his uncle Abraham could liave arranged easy separa- tion. Lot could have "journeyed east" and found abundance of grazing and water for his stock in the heads of the North Platte and the Yellow- stone ; while Abraham could have moved off west, and kept among those crystal springs and trout- brooks which give rise to the Colorado and the Co- lumbia. The Territory of Wyoming and of cattle, where we enjoyed so much charming idleness and profitable American observation, Avould cut up into seventeen Palestines or a dozen Bay States, with clippings enough for a Rhode Island, and ten square miles over. Of course, as we show a friend our line of travel there on a map, the finger or pointer or pencil-head covers up what would make a whole belt of Connecticuts, — much as a Western man is troubled to find Massachusetts on the map, till he lifts his finger from New England. WILD LIFE ON THE BOIIDEK. 1G9 CHAPTEK VIII. WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. GALISTEO is near the j auction of the Santa Fe branch Avith its trunk, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Y6 Road. In returning from Santa Fe I had passed Galisteo and stopped off two days at Baughl's Station, then so-called, to examine the ruins of Pecos, — an abandoned Aztec pueblo, with its old Spanish church, two years older than Boston. The age of tlie pueblo is unknown. At the end of the second day I returned to the station, two miles, to take the Eastern-bound train, mixed, of freight and passengers. It was late, and did not come in till midnight. On arrival, the train-boys rushed for the station-hands and loung- ers with exciting news from Galisteo. This Galis- teo was a kind of shanty and umbrella town, with a great deal of outdoors to it. Here and there was an ancient adobe, markiug the Mexican ele- ment ; while rough board saloons of two rooms, or one with curtain partitions and gamiug-tables and bars, showed the American growth. It had signs 170 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. enough for a small city, and conspicuous among them was the one of the colored barber. The exciting news brought up on that midnight train was told by half a dozen at once, as the grim fellows huddled, now in the glare of the head-light of the engine, and now in the murky- shadows of cars or shanties or clouds of smoke. I kept near, but shady, while they talked and walked. " You see," says one, " that lank greaser, Jim, he put it bad on the nigger, and he were rough. The nigger he stood it as long as he could, for he did n't want to fight." " Yes, and a nigger has no chance down this way," said another. " And no right to be in these diggins', anyhow," said a third rough. " By and by," continued the first speaker, "his blood it got hot, and he drew a bead on lank Jim, but, missing him, took Joe Lawkins right in the ribs." " Bad," said some one, " for everybody likes Joe." " If it had been lank Jim, it would have been hueno," shouted two or three. " The nigger did n't go for Joe," some one interposed. " Well," continued the first man, " Lawkins he was done for in ten minutes. Then his brother he felt powerful bad, and lank Jim he said, ' Shoot the nigger ! ' but two or three others said, ' Shoot lank Jim ! ' Then they said ' yes ' and ' no ' all round lively. Things got mixed mighty fast, and the fellows got on steam, and every one stood with his finger on his weepon." " Hi ! Hi ! " cried WILD LIFE ON THE BOEDER. 171 two or three. " Well," he continued, " the nigger he was making himself scarce toward the arroyo, when some feller popped on him." "*Lank Jim, you bet," said one. " Yes ; and you bet," the principal speaker went on to say, " that three or four put their muzzles right up to lank Jim, and cried, ' You hold ! ' Well, the barber he was leav- ing on double quick, and lank Jim's side went after him. Then some fired on them, and they fired back ; and in two twinks they were firing both ways, and then all round. Oh, 'twas a high old time ! " " Well, who is tumbled ? " several cried at once. " They brought back the nigger as white as a nigger could be, and the shooting stopped. Then Joe's brother he said, 'This is my business, and the nigger sha' n't be hurt.' Then lank Jim and his side they swore awful ; and both sides stood around the nigger, and every man had his finger on his weepon. Then Joe's brother he said, ' The nigger shall have his life in his legs, and an hour's start.' Then they cleaned him of his weepons, and he got up and got ; and it were tall, the way he did that thing. Pretty soon Joe's brother he felt powerful bad again ; for there lay Joe, and the blood running out of his jacket, and nobody hurt for it. Then Joe's brother he said, ' Somebody must suffer, and you may go for the nigger.' So half of them they prepared to git ; and the rest they lifted their weepons, and said, ' You sha' n't touch his curly head, for he did n't go to 17 '2 WILD LIFE 0\ THE BORDER. do it.' So tliey were talking high and swinging their weepons, when the machine she whistled ' All aboard ! ' and we vamosed. But it was a high old time, and I don't know what became of the nig." In a short time we also were off; and so I left that twilight border of civilization. That " high old time " was not so uncommon an affair, and it v.-as, withal, a bit typical of the front. Such scenes do not often find their way into the papers, for both local papers and readers are scarce. If noted men from the States are waylaid, or large sums of money are stolen, or railroad surveyors are shot down, the incident travels up to the Arkansas and Missouri and so comes East. In Sante F^ I was told that many of her leading men, in the past, had failed to reach a natural death. I had just left, Pierce City, Mo., on this same trip, when it was thrown into a fever by a bold daylight stage robbery fifteen miles off; And fifty men jumped to their saddles with rifles in hot hunting for the banditti. In that Southwest these brigands make ns think of mountainous Italy and Turkey and the Koord ranges. Probably the East does not hear of one in a hundred of those outrages. A Galveston paper before me mentions four hundred arrests in that State, in 1880, for crimes punishable with death. Fourteen were convicted, four of these hung, and the others let off lightly. I drifted down toward Liberty County, Texas, that had the credit of WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 173 nearly four hundred homicides within a few years. It thrilled New England when Dr. Leonard Bacon, years ago, gave his account of the seizure of his party by brigands between two stations of the American Board in the East. One need not now go abroad for such incidents ; be M'ill find the stations for home missions on the borders far off, and the outrages close by. After I came up from that " high old time " into Colorado, I signed the application for the first Congregational missionary station in New Mexico. They then had none in Arizona. The two Territories are equal to twenty-six areas of Massachusetts, and w-e then had had them on hand more than tliirty years. In that State of four hundred arrests for capital crimes the American Home Missionary So- ciety then had two missionaries only. The great civilizing power at that time in New Mexico was the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Eailroad. All this accords very well with what Mowry said of that region in 1864 : " There is no law or protection from Government. Every man redresses his wrongs with the pistol or knife, or submits in silence." ^ If the germs of many frontier settle- ments are taken into account, it will be seen that only a low and imperfect stage of civilization can be expected for one or two generations. And if 1 Arizona and Sonora. By Sylvester Mowry, Delegate to Congress. Harpers, 1864. p. 34. 174 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. some of the authorities about to be quoted pertain much to earlier days, it must be considered that half a century and even more sometimes, on an old Spanish and Indian basis, is not a long period for growth and fruiting after the planting of a new civil and social life. ]\Ioreover, yesterday is to-day on the frontier. The cliaracter, quality, and conduct which marked our extreme western belt of settlement long years ago is quite the same as formerly ; it is only the belt which has changed, and it only its place. Perliaps the quali- fication should be added that there is more vio- lence, rougli crime, and brigand outrage since the mining element came in ; and the Indians with less roaming-ground, and invaded by an eastern and a western army of immigrants, are the occa- sion of more personal and bloody rencontres. The reflections of Monette are strictly just and historically accurate, whether applied to the flood of immigration which set into the frontier in 1774, as he applies them, or to that of any decade since : " It is a fact which has been verified by all experience, from the first occupancy of the British Colonics in North America up to the present time, that when the tide of emigration sets strong toward the wilderness occupied by the native tribes, a large proportion of the most lawless and worthless part of the population is carried in advance of the older settlements like drift-wood upon a swollen river. Hence it is almost impos- WILD LIFE ON THE BOIJDER. 175 sible for tlie civil authorities to restrain acts of lawless violence in such persons on the extreme confines of civilization. Men wlio are impatient of the wholesome restraints of law and social order naturally seek those parts of a civilized commu- nity where the arm of the civil authority is weak- ened by distance, or wliere they find themselves beyond the reach of civil government." ^ No language could more aptly describe large sections of our border population of to-day. They have sought the front for the reasons here given, and maintain a semi-civilized independence of civil government. Between 1769 and 1823 the Franciscan Missions settled about five hundred miles of the California coast, and inland for fifty miles. Church and State united in this work, — the one for religion, and the other for empire ; and the soldiers and colonists sent out by the Gov- ernment were often raflians and renegades trans- ported for crimes.^ All of New Spain had much of this unfortunate material in its foundations, and we are prepared, therefore, to read what Lieutenant Pike said of it in the narrative of his Expedition into it, published in 1807. In an apologetic para- graph in the Preface he says : " With respect; to the Spanish part, it has been suggested to me by 1 jronette, History of the Valley of the Mississippi, vol. i. p. 369. - The Natural Wealth of California. By Titus Fye Cronise. 1868. 176 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. some respected friends, that tlie picture I drew of the inanucrs, morals, etc., of individuals, generally of New Spain, if a good likeness, was certainly not making a proper return for the hospitality and kindness with which those people honored me. Those reasons have induced me to omit many transactions, and draw a veil over various habits and customs, which might appear in an unfavor- able point of view, at the same time that I have dwelt on their virtues." Where so much of the uncivilized and degrad- ing is revealed, it is difficult to imagine what can have been veiled. Of that New Spain the United States took the area of one hundred and four States like Massachusetts, including Texas and the Gadsden purchase, and the Galisteo of the opening paragraph in this chapter is a part of it. The evil elements here indicated in our territory of Spanish colonizations have been enhanced in our earlier frontier domain by the mixed nation- alities of the border men. In years gone by, in the second and third quarters of this century, we were not receiving from the Old World so good a class of foreigners as to-day, and with their im- ported notions of government and law in this country, as also of social and moral life, these mixed races from the Old World did not well unify or constitute the best foundations for coming towns. Look at those founders as grouped by Bradbury, the English traveller, in the " Interior WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 177 of North America in 1809-11": "The popula- tion is at present compounded of a great number of nations not yet amalgamated, consisting of emigrants from every State in the Union, mixed with English, Irish, Scotch, Dutch, Swiss, Ger- man, French, and almost from every country in Europe." ^ If an Eastern community, under traditional re- gime, staid, conservative, and almost fossil, is sometimes perplexed or alarmed by the advent of a few ** foreigners," presumed to be innovators and possibly lawless, what is to be thought or said of one of these frontier belts of Bradbury ? "With time and aid all will come right, if the assimilating and organizing present can be well passed. The future is insured ; it is the present wliich is criti- cal, since man's natural state, antecedent to local government, is a wild state. Account also must be taken of the fact that many new settlements are started, not only by pio- neers, but by families whose ancestors have been pioneers for two or three generations. One cita- tion will show a double fact, — w^hat the old fron- tier was, and what the new one must be for a season. An English tourist in California, in 1857, speaking of the immigrants there from Pike County, Mo., says : " Till they came to California, most of them had never in their lives before seen two houses together ; and in any little village in 1 Bradbury's Travels, p. 304. 12 178 WILD LIFK ON THE BORDER. the mines they witnessed more of the wonders of civilization than ever they had dreamed of." ^ In the United States nothing seems to test the civilization of a man more than to have his own interests brought into close relations with the in- terests of the Indians. Eight and wrong appear to lose their immutability as held and practised in older and more civilized communities, and one is inclined to ask whether pecuniary and social morals are provincial. At least, a keen sense of right, honor, and integrity do not seem to have emigrated with the man to the semi-wild frontier, or there is something in his new surroundings that is decivilizing. This is an experience or fact which antedates the founding of the Eepublic and is still vigorous in its repetition. In 1768 the president of the King's Council for Virginia set forth, in a message to the Colonial Legislature, " that a set of men, regardless of the laws of natural justice, unmindful of the duties they owe to society, and in contempt of the royal proclamations, have dared to settle themselves up- on the lands near Redstone Creek and Cheat River, which are the property of the Indians ; and not- withstanding the repeated wrarnings of the danger of such lawless proceedings, and the strict and spirited injunctions to desist and quit their unjust possessions, they still remain unmoved, and seem 1 Three Years in California. By J. D. Borthwick, 1851-52. Edinburgh and London, 1857. pp. 147, 148. WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 179 to defy the orders and even the powers of the Government." ^ It would be difficult to frame passages more per- tinent for a presidential proclamation against tlie invasion of Oklahoma in 1884. This falling off of frontier men into a wild border life is as notable as it is lamentable, and has causes which are per- manent, while the decades run by and the frontier moves on. The explanation may lie partly in the fact that the looseness incident to camp, tent, and saddle life makes an equitable government and fair- toned justice quite impossible. Be the causes what they may, the humiliating passage of Mac- kenzie cannot be much qualified : " Experience proves that it requires much less time for a civil- ized people to deviate into the manners and cus- toms of savage life than for savages to rise into a state of civilization." ^ Of tliis decivilizing process, Parkman, in " The Old Edgime in Canada," gives a graphic and start- ling account in the thirteenth and seventeenth chapters. It was while Canada was yet French domain, and that defeat, on the Plains of Abra- ham, so total and so continental, was in the near- ing future : — " Out of the beaver trade rose a huge evil, bane- ful to the growth and the morals of Canada. All 1 Butler's History of Kentucky, Appendix, p. 475. 2 Voyages from Montreal to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, Preface. 180 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. that was most active and vigorous in the colony took to the woods and escaped Iroiu the control of intendants, councils, and priests, to the savage free- dom of the wilderness. . . . Edict after edict was directed against them ; and more than once tlie colony presented the extraordinary spectacle of the greater part of its young men turned into forest outlaws. . . . Their plan was to be absent four years, in order that the edicts against them might have time to relent. . . . The king ordered that any person going into the woods without a license should be wliipped and branded for the first offence, and sent for life to the galleys for the second." Denonville, the Governor of Canada, reports in later years " on their vagabond and lawless ways, their indifference to marriage, and the mischief caused by their example ; describes how on their return from the woods they swagger like lords, spend all their gains in dress and drunken rev- elry, and despise the peasants, whose daughters they will not deign to marry, though they are peasants themselves, . . . and cause their children to be as unruly as Indians, being brought up in the same manner." Married or unmarried, these rene- gades of civilization, in their four years' absence for trade and wilderness freedom among the In- dians, had left their children scattered through the forests. Lord Selkirk's Red River Settlement, when his WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 181 heirs were bought out in 1(S35, serves well the illustratiou of Wild Life ou the Border. " The inhabitants of the region at the time were of as motley and miscellaneous a make-up as any ex- tensive region of the earth would have afforded, — Canadians, half-breeds, Indians, and naked, painted, and featliered savages, strutting and fum- ing voyageurs, farmers, hunters, fishermen, fur- nished with missionaries of rival creeds, and not without means of education. Groups of human dwellings presented the strongest contrast, as be- tween well-furnished and well-stocked houses and farm-barns, and the filthiest, dreariest cabins and wigwams. Any of the Indians who were inclined to adopt the usages of civilization had the progres- sive stages of it set before them and facilitated, all the way up from and all the way down to barbarism. Many of the settlers, however, were faithful to their Indian wives, sought to raise them and their habits and modes of life, and sent their half-blood offspring to Canada and Europe for education." ^ It is very true that these facts are old, yet not old enough to be obsolete or unrepeated. In 1843-44 Fremont made an exploring tour to Ore- gon and northern California. On the return to the States the expedition stopped June 1st of the lat- ter year, at Eoubideau's trading-post on the Uin- 1 The Red Man and the White Man. By George E. Ellis. p. 494. 182 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. tah river, and Frdiiioiit tlius speaks of it: " It lias mostly a garrison of Canadians and Spanish en- gages and hunters, with the usual number of In- dian women." Two years afterward all that region was swept into the Union, and to-day it is a fitting part of polygamous Utah. We sometimes try to think that wild life on the border has been lived out, and gone into legends and books. No doubt the era of blood in Sau Francisco is passed, which is thus epitomized by the California " Alta " of June 1, 1856 : " Over a year ago we understood the district attorney to state, in an argument before a jury in a murder case, that since the settlement of San Francisco by the American people there had been twelve hundred murders committed here. We thought at the time the number stated was unduly large, and think so still." That city has done making such records, yet others are doing it in our new country. In Octo- ber, 1880, a policeman of Leadville, then a city of twelve thousand, informed the writer that since he entered that service in the March preceding, the violent deaths there had averaged two a week. " The highest time we had was a Sunday in April, when seven were killed." We return to early San Francisco in this study of American the border. An English traveller made himself somewhat familiar with California in the years 1851-54, and speaks in this way of WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 183 the amusements and habits of San Francisco at that time : " The most curious were certainly the masquerades. They were generally given in one of the large gambling-saloons, and in the placards announcing that they were to come off appeared conspicuously the intimations of 'No Weapons Admitted ; ' 'A Strong Police will be in Attendance.' " ^ Many years after we came into possession of New Mexico, as an official of the United States in- formed the author, there in a prominent city social assemblies were held twice a week, and they were originated and patronized by the leading men; but none of their partners were their wives, or married women. The Sabbath is a good day in which to view the frontier. Of the origin, authority, modes of observ- ance, and utility of the Christian Sabbath there are many views, and all are entitled to consider- ation, though conflicting. In the main, however, there is a general agreement that the mode and tone in which this day is received and passed are a fair index to the civil, social, and moral character of the place. These illustrations, therefore, out of many of Sabbath life, are cited to show some phases of the border. Flint has already been quoted as an intelligent, observing, and candid resident of ten years on the frontier, — 1815-25. 1 Three Years in California. By J. D. Borthwick. Edin- burgh and London, 1857. p. 77. 184 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. He was both a teacher and a minister, and has left this record of the Sabbath at the Post of Arkansas. When he marks the observance as French, it must be borne in mind that lie samples a wide territory, and a people who gave a broad and deep quality to the primitive civilization of the Mississippi Val- ley : " The French people generally came to the place of worship arrayed in ball-dresses, and went direct from worship to the ball. A brilliant room was near, and parts of my audience sometimes came in for a moment, and after listening to a few sentences returned to their billiards." ^ The vivid recollections of St. Louis come back, as we found it fifteen years later, with its seven- teen thousand people, French, Spanish, and Amer- ican, and a bold dash of blood from old Europe. There was unusual life on the Sabbath, though not much business on the levee, between the solid Front Street ti'ading-houses and the twenty to forty steamers lying uneasy at the bank in the muddy Missouri water. The clear and compara- tively pure Mississippi was crowded by it to the Illinois shore, and it hugged it with more or less of the distinctness of a dividing line for fifty miles down. For religious purposes we made regularly the Sabbath tour of the levee and steamers all tlirough the months of open navigation for a year. The Christian Sabbath was as foreign to that levee as any sacred day of an Arab or Hindu. Many 1 Flint's Travels, p. 274. WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 185 shops were open in the city • parades with music were common ; and as congregations were gather- ing for worship it created no surprise to meet a band of clattering horsemen on the streets headed for the country, carrying their fowling-pieces and whistling their game-dogs alon»r. Borthwick the Englishman has been already quoted. His description of a mining town on the Sabbath will answer to-day as faithfully as twenty- five years ago to any large mining camp between the Black Hills and Sonora : — " During the week, and especially when the miners were all at work, Hangtown [now Placer- ville] was comparatively quiet, but on Sundays it was a very different place. On that day the miners living within eight or ten miles all Hocked in to buy provisions for the week, to spend their money in the gambling-saloons, to play cards, to get their letters from home, and to refresh them- selves after a week's labor and isolation in the mountains, in enjoying the excitement of the scene according to their tastes. . . . The store- keepers did more business on Sundays than in all the rest of the week ; and in the afternoon crowds of miners could be seen dispersing over the hills in every direction, laden with the provisions they had been pjurchasing, chiefly flour, pork, and beans, and perhaps a lump of fresh beef. . . . There was only one place of public worship in 186 WILD LIFE ON THE BOUDEU. Hangtown, — a very neat little wooden edifice which belonged to some denomination of Metho- dists, and seemed to he well attended. ... On the streets almost every one wore a pistol or a knife, many wore both ; but they were rarely used." ^ There may have been no natural and original connection between the name and the Sabbath character of this place, but there is a legitimate and grim aptness between the two. " Placerville, known in early times as 'Hangtown,' in memory of the lynching there of three men who were arrested for highway robbery, and two of them identified as the persons guilty of a murder." ^ A pen-photograph of the place by our author will not be out of place on this page : " The street itself was in many places knee-deep in mud, and was plentifully strewed with old boots, hats, and shirts, old sardine-boxes, empty tins of preserved oysters, empty bottles, worn-out pots and kettles, old ham-bones, broken picks and shovels, and other rubbish too various to particularize." ^ Although our Southwest, beyond the Missis- sippi, cannot all be called border land, it has been characterized by a wild life that should be embraced in the survey of this chapter. When we purchased Louisiana, we annexed a civilization 1 Three Years in California. By J. D. Borthwick. 1851-54. pp. 118, 119. 2 Tuthill'.s History of California, p. 389. 8 Borthwick, pp. 114, 115. WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 187 essentially foreign, and raucb of it mediaeval ; and while it has to an extent been Americanized, it still presents startling and painful points to one who would make the region a social and moral study. What New Orleans was, much of society still is, on the west of it, and up to the then reced- ing: border. When we read the account of that city, by George W. Cable, the wonder is, not that social convulsions have agitated society there, and the wide regions moulded by it, but that the frame- work itself of society has endured. And while his painfully graphic description is confined nominally to the city at one epoch, it runs out, practically, over a vast area to the west, and into an era of half a century : — "Between 1831 and 1833 the foreign exports and imports ran up from twenty-six to nearly fifty-four millions of dollars. . . . Vice put on the same activity that commerce showed. The Creole had never been a strong moral foi'ce. The Amer- ican came in as to gold diggings or diamond fields, — to grab and run. The transatlantic immigrant of those days was the offscouring of Europe. The West Indian was a leader in licentiousness, gam- bling, and duelling. The number of billiard-rooms, gaming-houses, and lottery offices was immense. In the old town they seemed to be every second house. There was the French Evangelical Church Lottery, the Baton Ptouge Church Lottery, the 188 WILL) LIFE ON THE BORDER. Natchitoches Church Lottery, and a host of others less piously inclined. The catus of the central town were full of filibusters. . . . Even in the heart of the town highway robbery and murder lay always in wait for the incautious night way- farer who ventured out alone. . . . The worst day of all the week was Sunday. The stores and shops were open, but toil slackened and license gained headway. Gambling-rooms and ball-rooms were full, weapons were often out, the masques of the Salle de Cond^ were thronged with men of high standing, and crowds of barge and raits men, as well as Creoles and St. Domingoans, gathered at those open-air African dances, carousals, and de- baucheries in the rear of the town, that have left their monument in the name of Congo Square. . . . Schools were scarce and poor, churches few and ill- attended, and domestic service squalid, inefficient, and corrupt." ^ This is not the New Orleans of to-day, but that New Orleans is now diffused, propagated, "gone West" into and across Texas, into the interior and on the borders. Sample and reference illustrations would prop- erly follow such a statement. We enter a Texan hotel in the newer interior or rough border of this Empire State. The " hostelrie " is a shanty strug- gling to be a story and a half. Office, reception- 1 The Century, June, 1883. The Great South Gate. By George W. Cable, pp. 221, 222. WILD LIFE ON THE BOKDER. 189 room, ladies' room, common sitting-room, private parlors, and the family room are all one and the same apartment, twelve feet by twelve. The gaunt traveller easily measures the height of the ceiling if he is above five feet ten, and stoops to conquer a position. Within this room are the squat, uncourtly, unwashed landlord ; the landlady and baby and nursery appendages; half a dozen urchins of the family stock, which in Texas seems to run mostly to boys ; some cowboys in leather breeches and spurs, and whiskey with its spurs ; loafers from the nearest cabins in constant attend- ance ; two or three boarders with wives, — it is just before dinner, — and a couple of horseback travel- lers. The announcement of dinner sweeps them all into a banqueting-hall of corresponding splendor and furnishing — in a " lean-to." As the rosy sun- set fades out, and dewy eve steals on, they all re- tire to their several apartments, and do not go far, for sweet repose. The sable curtains of the night make further description impossible, and so we leave the reader fancy free. Men of saddle, or buggy, or stage, over the magnificent distances in the por- tions of sparsely-peopled Texas, know experimen- tally that this description is drawn mildly, and will answer for much highway off the railroad in an immense State. These are an American type of the merry for- esters of early England, with some dash of the Knishts of tlie liound Table in their blood. Amer- 190 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. icans and citizens, yet owning to no government that does not go with them in the saddle, they live a hybrid order of life, produced of the prairie and saddle and tent. The untravelled yet intelligent man of the old thirteen States, living among the hills of his ancestors, with schoolhouses and kind neighbors, and churches and bridges, and old oaken buckets swinging in the wells of Jacobs all about him, knows the least possible of his fellow-citizens on the border. He has not enough in his mind of even "such stuff as dreams are made of" to furnish a sleepy conception of them. What oc- casion has he ever had to know what a saddle and sleeping blanket, now a tent and now a bed, a camp-fire, and a buffalo or antelope steak broiled on a ramrod, will make of a man ? It would re- quire eight New Englands to cover United States territory which is occupied more or less in this way. The fascination of it and its power of self- propagation and extension are an amazement to every book student of civilization. One of the problems of a Christian civilization, so called, offers itself to our study, with a vast ex- panse and a diffuse population, constituting the wild border-life on our southwest. Aboriginally it was barbarian and pagan, in the European terms of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Then came European civilization and Spanish Chris- tianity to lift up the people. With what results ? " The Pueblo Indians, living in well-built villages. WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 191 depending upon agriculture, possessing certain comforts of manufactures and arts, and advanced somewhat in civil and social ideas, were encoun- tered by the Spaniards, tliree and a third centuries ago, in the same localities where they are now found, and with the same manners and customs as to-day,"^ As to their explorers, or rather invaders, the same author says : " In all forms of treaties and in all cases of submission the unalterable condition of faith to the new religion was required." Speak- ing of the pueblo of Taos, the most powerful in numbers and resources referred to by the old Span- ish historians, he says : " They live in the same homes to-day as then, and occupy much the same land now as then. They are little if any better off in lands, property, numbers, and comforts now than they were three hundred years ago." As a sample pueblo, our officer of the United States Army, who has studied his theme on the ground as well as in the library, thus refers to Acoma, a pueblo : " Inhabited since history began, it seems the same place to-day as described three hundred and thirty years ago, — has gained nothing, nor lost in any respect its ancient features." Covering the Pueblo and Aztec population generally, the same authority adds: ""VVe should, at the first thought, have expected to have found some of the 1 A Political Problem : New Mexico ami the New Mexicans. By an Officer of the Armj'. 1876. p. 2. 192 WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. blessings of civilization and Christianity. But witli this delineation of the true character of their religion we must conclude our premise wrong. In the Pueblo communities themselves it is known that the ancient belief and the ancient rites have always been preserved, and are to-day kept up with a pretended acquiescence in the ritual of the established Church." Eeferring to the civil, moral, and religious influences of the United States there since it became a part of our dominion, he con- cludes with this mild statement, so mortifying and reproving to our methods of administering Chris- tianity : " No sign has been exhibited, in twenty-six years, of the adoption of our ideas of civilization, or of amendment of their points of variance." ^ These quoted remarks apply equally well to Arizona as to New Mexico. The original popula- tion is Mexican or Aztec, — synonymous terms, — and pueblos are simply Mexican or Aztec villa- gers living on reservations, with a communistic house, more or less walled, for defence. The rest of the population, equally Aztec, is diffused through tlie country in various pursuits. Of tlie pueblos proper, as walled towns, about twenty-five are extant. Many are abandoned of population, the last of which was Pecos. If the Pueblos dif- fer from the rest of the Mexicans on either side of the Eio Grande, it is in having retained a purer Aztec blood and morals, and more of the charac- 1 A Political Problem, pp. 29, 17, 23, 30, 31. WILD LIFE OX THE BORDER. 193 teristics which marked the race before the invasion of Europeans. So far as yet appears, ethnologi- cally the Aztecs are a race distinct from the North American Indians ; though this name, Indian, is loosely given to the more uncivilized portions of them in Mexico, as well as in New Mexico and Arizona. Such is one section of our wild American bor- der, pagan and Christian in its religion ; as to the natives, pagan and medieeval in its civilization wlien annexed to the United States ; and strangely neglected afterward in our home and foreign schemes and expenditures for educating and Chris- tianizing the unfortunate and degraded. It was left for railroad enterprise to carry the nineteenth and Christian century into our conquered and annexed Southwest. This condition of civil and social and moral life on the frontier, which we have been outlining, does not seem surprising to the thoughtful, but, on the contrary, quite natural and reasonable. What otherwise can be expected ? For two hundred years, and especially for the last one hundred, since the Revolution into independence opened the way west, and stimulated the emigrating propensities of the Americans, we have rushed over the bor- der. When the Republic was born, a thousand personal, individual, and sovereign interests were born, and a boundless interior invited to their development. History has no parallel to the 13 194 AYILD LIFE ON TIIH BOUDHll. American migration of this current century. But it was building tlie State out into open space. The deep soil and the minerals, the mountains and prairies and forests and rivers, and the skies of God were the raw material, and on tlie building-lot. The State is yet to come, and must be built on the ground. It cannot be immigrant, while its found- ers must be. It can no more be moved out from the old East, as by a colony in an emigrant train, than the old Pilgrim wells of Plymouth and Salem. The State is an autocthon, though of imported germs. It comes of society, which in a new country is composed of the imported fragments of an old disintegrated society, which fragments, on the new building ground, we call immigrants. These fragments have gone west, as individuals and families, disintegrating and re- ducing some of the old States, as Maine and New Hampshire. Betw^een 1860 and 1870 they did not hold their own, but fell off in population from emigration. Between 1850 and 1860 Vermont barely held her own, from the same cause. Now, as to deterioration in this new society which is to build the State on the border, con- sider how much of the man is left behind when one emigrates. He carries with him his qualities but not his character, as the transplanted tree carries its label and its branches, but only a part of its roots, which hold its vitality and strength. As he makes a new farm, or business, or dwelling- AVILD LIFE OX THE BOKDER. 195 house, he must make a new reputation, or power to do. At this stage many emigrants reveal a liumiliating weakness. They have been indebted to society more than they or their old neighbors were conscious of, for their good name and general usefulness. They have stood upright in their old surroundings, because not required to stand alone. Traditions, ambitions, honorable relations, fears of failure and shame, virtues enforced by surround- ings, as cheaper than vices, have in the old home of childhood braced them up to an erectness. These favorable surroundings do not emigrate with a man when he crosses the Ohio or Missouri. Many a timber has no dishonor in the old house, but is a poor stick in rebuilding. Common law, civil law, genial neighborhood benedictions, the schoolhouse and the church do not emigrate. These must be built into the new settlement as truly as the highway and farm and bridge. The intellectual and literary atmosphere which the body politic must breathe, to be vigorous and well-toned, is not native to the virgin forests and prairies and mountains of the coveted West. The school and the academy and tlie college, with their historic playgrounds and ancestral avenues and classic associations, — great factors, in making noble men and women, — come slowly on the border. In all these unfavorable circumstances perils come promptly. In the passage from the old to the new, in the disintegration, removal, and recon- 196 ^V1LD LIFE ON THE BOUDER. strncti(in, a thousand miles into the interior, witli so much of good and indispensable inevitably left behind, a civil, social, and moral relapse in the building of the new state is a painful and neces- sary certainty. For civilization has its laws of decline as well as of growth. Until the unemi- grating and indispensable qualities for the higher civilization which crowned society in the old thirteen states can be produced for the new state, on the new ground, there must be decline. The second generation will fall below the first, possibly the third below the second, in the stronger, nobler, and sweeter elements of the family and of the public. This decline will sometiines show itself in a loose undervaluing of education, or in a low pride in the unrefined, or in a contempt for what is delicate in taste and feeling. The amusements, also, will usually indicate this retrograde, by as- suming more of a coarse, physical, semi-animal and semi-vicious character. All such is a hint that decivilization is going on, and the ease and rapidity of such tendencies are surprising to one who has not observed or studied them. Civiliza- tion is an acquisition or conquest over nature, obtained with struggle and held by perpetual vigilance. These decivilizing causes and retrograde ten- dencies on the border are outlined here in no way of reflection or reproach on our pioneer belt of citizens. They are perils incidpnt to the emi- WILD LIFE ON THE BORDER. 197 grating, dissolved, and reconstructing stage of society, inevitable, and inseparable from the mi- gratory state. Those who take the republic in their hands thus to enlarge it, and who, therefore, necessarily incur these disadvantages and perils, not always successfully, are entitled to our sym- pathy, and to our honor even, in some failures. As usually the strongest and most energetic emi- grate, they have probably done what the best would have done. When we add to this exposed class the emi- grants of fortune, and the American nomads of the border, who pour contempt on education and so- ciety and law and morals, and add also the crimi- nal tramps and desperadoes of a new country, it will be seen that the state is to be builded with great difficulties on our frontier, as we constantly crowd it along into a farther wilderness. When, in the first stage of the Marietta Colony under Putnam, they wrote out an extempore code of laws, and posted it on the trees around their rude cabins, the temptations and proclivities were strong toward a government as rough and rude as their cabins, and only the exceptionally high tone of the settlers saved them from it. For when there is no king in Israel, and every one is left to do what is right in his own eyes, there is a good open- ing toward anarchy and barbarism, and all the more if in a country in the wild and unsubdued state of nature. 198 WILD J.IFK ON TUK linRDKU. Illuslralive cases are uot wanting in history to show what has here been said. Spain sent her best blood and high Castihan civilization into her New Spain. True, it was of the sixteenth century ; but then Europe had nothing better to offer for ccdonial founders than those knightly and courtly generals and civilians. In their wilderness homes they fell away from their Castilian breeding and ambitions, and their posterity and their institutions compromised witli the natives on midway grounds, and now but few remnants and faint memories of that hiritain and Piussia, no government can count more subjects. In the number of citizens moved by similar impulses, and recognizing common ends, the British Empire it- self yields to the great licpublic. Fifty millions of human beings in a land like America more than match the eighty-six millions of European and Asiatic Eussia. The four hundred and twenty-five millions of China are not to be compared with them as a force among mankind. The growth of a population may generally be understood to imply the growth of wealth and resources. As each cen- sus in a European State indicates a numerical advance, it may for the most part be inferred that fresh means of support have been made available. When, however, every successive census in the United States reveals an expansion by bounds and leaps, faith in the instinct of human nature not to multiply beyond the power of existence is scarcely needed to reassure anxiety. The granary which is to feed the new millions which have come, the millions which are to follow, piles its stores for the whole world to certify them. Each added American citizen has not to search for the . THE EMPIRE OF THE FUTURE. 403 livelihood nature hides somewhere or other for all its children. He is born or imported with his inheritance labelled and allotted. He has but to go West, or North, or South ; there it is awaiting his advent." 404 CONCLUSION. CHAPTER XIV. CONCLUSION. WE lind ourselves at tlie conclusion of an exceedingly interesting historical study. As wide, and covering long lapses of time, and under pressure for brevity, the survey has been necessarily hurried, liice landscape studies from an express train of cars. In "The Eailroad and the Farmer " Edward Atkinson remarks that " this na- tion has a function in the world that is yet almost a vision." We have now come to a position where the visionary may be seen to be taking on the real. True prophecy is involuntary utterance under divine pressure and dictation ; but there are human prophecies almost equally irresistible and reliable. When tlie careful student of events notices that he is following an unbroken series of growths in a nation, down the decades of years, he cannot resist the foreseeing and foretelling of events as logical sequents. Such was that inspiration of John Bright, when speaking at Birmingham, on the American question, in 1862, — midway in our darkest hours : " It may be but a vision, but I will CONCLUSION. 405 cherish it. I see one vast confederation stretching from the frozen North in one unbroken line to the glowing South, and from the wild billows of the Atlantic westward to the calmer waters of the Pa- cific main ; and I see one people, and one law, and one language, and one faith, and over all that wide continent the home of freedom, and a refuge for the oppressed of every race and of every clime." ^ A very large extent of land in the public do- main still remains in Government hands unsold, awaiting the realization of John Bright's vision. 2,889,000,000 acres had been sold down to June 30, 1880. At the same time 1,270,000,000 acres remained unsold, — about three sevenths of the whole domain. Or, to state this in a more intel- ligible and popular form, the United Kingdom — Great Britain and Ireland — has an area of 77,332,480 acres, but the United States has on hand, unsold, sixteen times that amount of land. Our Government has still, in an absolutely wild state, over which the public surveyor has not yet travelled with compass and chain, thirteen times the area of the United Kingdom. It should, how- ever, be added that the proportion of good land sold is greater than the proportion of it in the sections unsold. Into this most immense national field, where such unsold areas are awaiting the coming nation, 1 Speeches of John Bright, M. P., on the American Question. Boston, 1865. pp. 128, 129. 406 CONCLUSION. we are moving with a speed exceeding that of the leading government of the workl. In the decade ending with 1880 our increase in population was three times the European rate, and double that of England and Germany — the leading nations of Europe — in growth. The significance of this, as to our future, is seen, if we remember our excess of area over tliat of the United Kingdom as above stated, and then consider that in 1880 their popu- lation was only thirty-five millions to our fifty millions. In indulging visions of our national growth, al- lowance should be made for portions of our terri- tory, uninviting for human homes, and some even uninhabitable. Yet since Eastern energy has set- tled Vermont, and Western enterprise has conquered the Great American Desert, we do not feel con- strained to yield much land permanently to wild animals and American Arabs. Gladstone takes the quality as well as the quantity of our territory into view when he says that we have " a natural base for the greatest continuous empire ever estab- lished by man." If the British or the Eussian Empire be put in comparison with us in extent, either is double our own ; but when we consider how much of the latter is arctic and how much of the former is arctic and torrid, their quantity must be estimated in view of our quality. The two persons to a square mile in Asiatic Eussia give no rich promise for the future of those regions, and CONCLUSION. 407 British North America is less promising ; for, in- cluding even the old Canadas as well as the Hud- son Bay and Polar sections, it has a density of only 1^2_4_ of Q^ person to the square mile. The popula- tion in Manitoba in 1881 was only one person to two square miles, in British Columbia one to seven, and in the Territories one to forty. Moreover, in forecasting the empire of the future, as the preceding chapters compel us to do, it is to be well considered that our dominion is not fractional. With the exception of Alaska, it lies in one undivided body, animated practically by one blood, using one national tongue, and living under one law, enacted at one common centre. In this re- gard our homogeneity is remarkable as in contrast with the colonial and heterogeneous composition of the British Empire. Her composite dominion lies scattered about tlie world in forty-one parcels, not including the home kingdom, — in Europe three, in America eleven, in Africa nine, in Asia nine, in Australia nine. The advantage from this unity for symmetrical development is beyond estimate to the American nation, in aid of consolidation and vigor of national life. If, instead of our thirty-eight States, constituting a federal unit in one undivided territory, we were so many colonies and outlying provinces, separated each from every other by in- tervening and foreign sovereignties, each having a different blood, language, religion, and the rem- nants of an ancestral government, the hope of 408 CONCLUSION. union, prosperity, and perpetuity would be ex- tremely frail. Old World wars and the overthrow of governments liave sprung from tliese military unions of discordant and antagonistic materials. Tlie rise of such a colony or dependency toward the higher civilization is a menace to the head government of independence and home rule. One has but to consider this amount of unsold country, sixteen times the area of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, and the high tide of population flowing into it at the present time, to feel that we have a magnificent future, and near at hand. What Samuel Adams, in the Congress at Philadelphia, wrote to James Warren, president of the Provincial Congress of Massachusetts in 1775, is pre-eminently true to-day : " The wheels of Providence seem to be in their swiftest motion." Our increase in population, natural and imported, is now about two millions a year ; so that the growth of two years would more than equal all we had in the days of the Eevolution. Such increase of new settlements and filling up of the older ones are without precedent or parallel in history. What a Congressional Com- mittee on the development of the West reported in 1816 might be repeated to-day with emphasis: "The rapidity of its growth is such that even whilst we are employed in drawing the portrait, the features continue to enlarge, and the picture becomes distorted." In September, 1884, there CONCLUSION. 409 was spread out, near Devil's Lake, Dakota, an immense wheat-field, with only here and there a rude shelter for man and beast. Within nine months a city had sprung up at the terminus of a new railroad into that wheat-field, containing three hotels, a bank, roller-rink, five lumber-yards, two elevators, two churches, and numerous stores, with a population to correspond, and had already handled eight hundred thousand bushels of wheat. In this way, to use the words of a very eminent English statesman, America "bravely and vigor- ously grapples with the problem of making a continent into a State." There is a suggestive incident floating down to us from the English Parliament of 1846, as to our rapidity of growth. Sir Robert Peel, then dis- cussing the corn-laws, mentioned two young and border towns in America that would by and by rival Odessa and Danfzic in the crrain markets of the world ; and he named Chicago and Milwaukee. It is said that those two cities had never before been mentioned in the House, and members whispered, "What did he call them?" "Oh, Indian towns," was the reply. That was only forty years ago, and now the two places have their seven hundred thousand and two hundred thousand inhabitants. English dealers in grain now catch those names with painful distinctness sometimes, when America rules the prices of wheat. 410 CONCLUSION. The sudden massing of peoples in newly dis- covered or newly opened countries has always marked the opening of a new era in human pro- gress. At such times the race gathers fresh force for another career, and begins to make material for another volume of history. The reason for this lies much in the fact that those who emigrate are usually the more energetic portion of a community. They are the spirited and ambitious, who weary of grooves, and have more independence and ex- pectation than they have reverence and tenacity for the past or content with the present. Our vast expanses of newly opened country, so dwarf- ing the nations of Europe in comparative extent, and the millions gathering in them by both natural increase and immigration, show plainly to the statesman that we are working on the crude foundations of a new empire, unprecedented in extent, population, and wealth. For a century and a half it was doubted whether the English Colonies could rise above suppressed dependencies under Great Britain, and break the will of Pitt by making a nail for a horseshoe in America. It was by slow growth that the knowledge of the existence of the United States as a nation became common in Europe. "Once a colony al- ways a colony " was an axiom then as it is to-day in the Old World. In 1797 John Quincy Adams entered Berlin as American Minister to Prussia. He was questioned at the gates by a dapper lieu- CONCLUSION. 411 tenant, who did not know, until one of his private soldiers explained to him, what the United States of America were.^ When in the same city George Bancroft put before the Emperor William, as umpire between the United States and Great Britain, the Northwestern Boundary Question, the unknown Ptepublic had become a nation in the first rank ; and to-day it heads the list in the financial valuations of the nations of the earth. Eeasonable anticipations gf our future, fairly put, seem visionary and even boastful to foreign statesmen, and almost as much so to our own provincial and untravelled citizens. A playful allusion to our national bird will neutralize with many a chapter of august facts ; nevertheless, that bird is as yet only in the callow and downy stage of development. When Canon Farrar was lately leaving America, he put this glowing passage among his farewell words : " I have stood astonished before the growth, the power, the irresistible advance, the Niagara rush of sweeping energy, the magnificent appar- ent destiny of this nation, wondering whereunto it would grow." Herein is forced on us the great duty of the hour. We are making a nation, and hardly mid- way in the enterprise, and no work more sublime, no call to any labor higher and holier, may justly divert us or claim our forces, 1 Morse's John Quincy Adams, p. 24. 412 CONCLUSION. The providences gone before and preparing the way, the raw material on hand by a natural or divine preparation, the work so auspiciously be- gun and tiie success attained, and the grand op- j)ortunity or chance which beckons us on to a great future, all declare one fact, — that the Ameri- can people have an offer to make a nation to or- der. Separated from the old nations by an ocean, and in a land unencumbered by traditional and inherited regimes ; with none of their wreck and debris on our new building-ground, and in ad- vance of the fossiliferous period of governments, we may build to our own model. Inheriting all the knowledge and experience, but none of the authority or dictation of preceding nations, in an advanced era when civil society has both the right and the duty of improved models, and in a domain new, inviting to human homes, and ample beyond all precedent, the human race never elsewhere had so good a hope of forward movement. The non- governing masses of the Old World hang in anxiety on our experiment. AVhile such issues are pending in our struggle to make a continent into a State, we must not be persuaded to fritter away our forces in regulating and reconstructinfT unfortunate and inferior sections of the Old World. While we have a Chicago and San Francisco to build, it is not for us to rebuild Thebes and Carthage. And with hints now and then, in our cities and on our frontier, of mediae- CONCLUSION. 413 val civilization in the United States, furnished by nihilists, anarchists, socialists, and atheists, the question grows with our country and its dangers, how much conservating and elevating power we can wisely export. The fact must not be forgotten that when a monarchical government weakens or dissolves, the restoration of order usually lies in the line of more liberty for the people. So revolution under mon- archy is never without a possible remedy, and the final rest and ultimate hope are in a government by the people and for the people. If that anchor- age fail, all goes adrift on the sea of anarchy. The American people have now arrived where ^the old question confronts them : Are a people competent for self-government ? Only with a fair and bal- ancing proportion of intellectual and moral force in the body politic ; and during the last two or three decades our Government has had some sug- gestions of great gravity in this direction. With two millions of voters who cannot read and write their own ballots, the United States may well con- sider why there are so many dead republics. The marked weaknesses of the Eepublic show themselves in our illiteracy, immorality, and irre- ligion ; and the one continental work of the Ameri- can people will tax the wisest and most benevolent and sacrificing, — to guard the nation against these dangers. This is to be said more emphatically because, under our system of gcvernment, much 414 CONCLUSION. of this work must be done, not by statute and tax- ation, but by the benevolent hand and voluntary contributions of the people. The immensity of the field and the success or failure of the Ameri- can endeavor call for a most discriminating pro- portional division of all our charitable contril)utions and endowments and benevolent work. Nor will it be enough for the good and the de- vout to hope and trust. There is too much lazy reliance on Providence. That will not save the Eepublic. The Christian creed and practice of such could be improved by using so much pagan- ism as was hinted by Jupiter to the stalled and praying wagoner, — to put his own shoulder to the wheel. When the Boston Port Bill was announced to the Connecticut Assembly, it " appointed a day of humiliation and prayer, and ordered an inven- tory to be taken of the cannon and military stores," — a very sensible combination of forces in saving one's country. And generally, in the Colonies, on that event so menacing the welfare of the country, " bells were muffled and tolled from morning till night, flags were kept at half-mast, streets were dressed in mourning, public buildings and shops were draped in black, large congregations filled the churches." ^ So the Congress in session at Philadelphia made address to the people by the pen of Richard Henry Lee : " Above all things we earnestly entreat you with devotion of spirit, peni- 1 Frothingliam's Rise of the Republic, p. 324. CONCLUSION. 415 tence of heart, and amendment of life, to humble yourselves and implore the power of Almighty God." And when Cornwallis surrendered, Con- gress most properly " went in procession to church to give thanks to Almighty God for the victory." But with all this religious devotion and fasting and thanksgiving, no people ever so labored and sacrificed for a desired end, as if the result rested on their struggles. We are yet in the founding of the Eepublic, and by no means past the era of anxiety, with the memory and admonition that of all the European republics, first and last, only three survive. Almost all the members of the republican family of government are dead, as of a short-lived race. They have died, moreover, of illiteracy, immorality, and irreligion. I have al- ready said that the genius of our Government does not provide by constitution or statute for moral or religious qualities in the people, or for the high- est institutions of learning. It approbates and en- courages these, but leaves them to be secured by the voluntary and benevolent action of the people. In later years wealth, scholarship, science, and aesthetics have gained patronage, endowment, and popularity in great advance of those personal qual- ities which ornament life as the beatitudes, and crown manhood. Very much work remains to be done, and indeed is constantly accumulating, for which wide popular contributions and single princely gifts must lay 416 CONCLUSION. the foundations. The church, the college, and the professional school must have early and command- ing position in the new country west of the Alle- ghanies, as they did in the country east of the Alleghauies when it was new, if we would have men come to the front who are competent and worthy to found and lead a State. It is well enough, and perhaps timely, to repeat here what Benton said in 1844, in his speech in the Senate, on Texas, or Disunion : " Superficial readers be- lieve it was the military men who destroyed the Eoman Eepublic. No such thing. It was the politicians who did it, — factious, corrupt, intriguing politicians ; destroying public virtue in their mad pursuit after office; destroying their rivals by crime ; deceiving and debauching the people for votes ; and bringing elections into contempt by the frauds and violence with which they were conducted." ^ Honored names have gone into our new coun- try, as the people have carried the nation that way, and have taken their place in American his- tory in philanthropic, humane, educational, and Christian institutions, just as the names we now honor and love gained their places in the colonial era, and in the years following the colonial. No patriots, in the field or the forum, can be more worthily called the founders of the Eepublic ; and if we would continue to build as wisely as the 1 Benton's Thirty Years' View, vol. ii. p. 615. CONCLUSION. 417 fathers, such meu must be found ; and they must be multiplied, too, for an area five times as large and for a population fifteen* times as large as those fathers had in the lievolutionary epoch. It is all most filial and reverent to enclose expensively Jacob's Well, and erect a noble monument there to the patriarcli. Meanwhile the great American caravan, moving west with the tread of a nation, must have other wells and drinking fountains provided. No nation ever yet had so successful a past in a period so brief. In one century we have gone up from a colonial state, where the British Minis- try were unwilling that we should manufacture a teacup, to stand in the first rank of manufacturing a nation. And yet we seem to be but in the be- ginning of our career, as a ship outward bound for the farthest ocean, which is still in sight of home headlands, and has just laid her course. No nation ever had so auspicious a future. Still young and crude, in the gristle rather than the bone, our possible history is mostly before us, in tempting susceptibilities and rude, massive mate- rial. No nation ever came so near to having innumerable possibilities and unlimited area for building itself. St. Peter's at Eome was begun nearly four hun- dred years ago — 1506 — and is yet unfinished. The building of it still goes on, according to its original and grand plan. Twelve generations of 27 418 CONCLUSION. workmeu have come and gone over its scaffoldings, and still the work goes ou with a constantly new grandeur and glory. All this is architectural. The American structure, sacred and civil, the building of the State, was begun nearly three hun- dred years ago. And still the work goes on. Nine generations of workmen have come and gone over its scaffoldings, and we are the tenth, and, like our fathers, building better than we know. Occasion- ally, in our poor apprentice work, and through the haze of our poor eyes, there comes to view a new corridor or aisle, turret or dome, and often ampler interior courts ; and so there opens up, wider and deeper, the grandeur of the architecture, as on a plan of men inspired for statemanship. So majes- tically has the building of the American State gone on. In his first inaugural Washington said : " Every step by which they [the Americans] have advanced to the character of an independent nation seems to have been distinguished by some token of provi- dential agency." It is for us to look back and see these divine tokens in what has been accomplished in founding the State, and so discover the plan on which we are building. So the work already ac- complished will foretell our future labors, which prophetic statesmen have outlined. It is for us to study and comprehend all this, and hasten the enterprise, — the building of the Empire of the Future. CONCLUSION. 419 The world of high art cannot afford to leave St. Peter's unfinished, nor the world of highest civili- zation the building of the United States of To- morrow. And when this American structure is finished, it shall be said of it, as Byron says of St. Peter's, though with an import infinitely deeper and nobler : — " But thou, of temples old and altars new, Standest alone, with nothing like to thee." INDEX. Page Adams, John, on America's growth and mission . . . 364-366 John Quincy, anecdote of 410, 411 Admiralty jurisdiction, slow movement west 301-306 Alaman, Lucas, predicts the absorption of Mexico by the United States 386 Alaska, purchase, cost, amount, and worth of 38-41 shore line of 15 Alaslcans, Christian Missions among, neglected 39 Alleghauies, large cities beyond 265 America, the Fifth Empire 358, 359 as compared with British or Russian territory . . . 406, 407 American Desert, an unfortunate term 93 and Pike's, Astor's, and Long's expeditions .... 97-101 and McDuifie 104 and the " Edinburgh Review " 104,105 and the "Westminster Review" 108-112 and Washington Irving 105-108 and School Geographies, — Woodbridge and Willard, Olney, Smith, Colton 101-104, 109 States occupied bj', and population and cereals of . . 133-135 driven before immigrants 127, 134, 136 Jefferson's original mistake on 96 of Edward I. Wallace and Governor Simpson .... 108 professional opinions on 114-119 reduced 112-120 yields to farmers 127 American Independence only second to Christianity in impor- tance 372 law followed the English 306-308 passion for more land 27, 44-46 structure when finished, what 419 Americans, amusing ignorance of, as to their own country . 18-20 Aranda, Count, regards the Republic as a Colossus . . . 380, 381 422 INDEX. Page Army, standing, in United States and Europe 341, 342 Astor's trading vessel at Chicago, the first 70 fur trade at Cliicago 71 Aztec, Mexican, and Pueblo life 190-193 Balance of power gone West 309-311 Uaiiditti, on the border 169-173 Uannack, Montana, Lynch law in 221-224 Baptiste, Point de Saible, first settler at Chicago, and first owner 59, 60 Benton, Thomas H., in Eastern hostility to Western land sales 283, 284 Berkeley, Bishop, and his "course of empire" .... 360, 361 Bingham, William, and lands in Province of Maine .... 150 Border men, many of, the refuse of society 174, 175 Boroughs, Sir John, on England's sovereigntj' of the seas . . 395 Brackinridge, Hugh Henry, poem on The Rising Glory of America 366 Bright, John, on America as the strongest government in the world 38G, 387 vision of American future 404, 405 British America, Pacific coast of 16 Browne, Sir Thomas, prophetic views of America . . . 358, 359 Bushnell, Dr., on home travel 351 California hides and the railway 318, 319 "Camillus " on the Louisiana purchase 270 Canada, education in, priestly 206 Cartwright, John, the colonies must control the continent . . 370 Case}', James P., shoots James King 246 Castelar, Erailio, that America will lead the world in civiliza- tion 388, 389 Cattle-drive, and distances of "out West" 20-23 Cattle shipped at Salina, Kan 332, 333 Cerisier on American influence in Europe 377 Chapman on the future of America 357 Chevalier, Michel, on the United States as leading the nations 387,388 on the growth of the United States 332 Chicago, Ancient (1778-1833) 53-92 and churches , 69 and San Francisco R. R., no room for, in Europe ... 25, 26 and the Indian Council in, 1831-33 78 and the school system 69, 70, 89, 90 INDEX, 423 Page Chicago, as seen by Colonel Long in 1831 68 becomes a town in 1833 66, 67 Canal to the Illinois 71 Directory for 1830 69 early quiet of 63 English title to, extinguished in 1795 60 first occupant of 58 in 1809 in Wisconsin Territory 71 in 1825, what 68 massacre at 65, 66 not easily found 67 on early trapper route 56 once in Virginia, 1778 58 post-office, once and now 84-87 route to, explored b}' Logan, 1718 56 rush of growth in, 1830-36 71 valuation, extravagance, and debts of 71, 72 ■wheat trade begins in 1838 75, 88 Chicago's first saloon-keeper 60, 61 growth not so singular 54 Chicagoes, many of, still rising 54 Clark, Gen. George Rogers, conquers the Northwest Territory . 57 Colleges and churches indispensable for the West .... 214-218 are they too early and too many ? 216-218 earh' on the frontier 211, 212 real and sham, out West 216 Colonies, claim of, to Western lands, and how settled . . 43-45 Colonists of California, many corrupt 175 Colorado, and some European areas 10 Commerce, salt and fresh water 300,301 Western, and the Courts 301-306 Common schools and any new State 203 Conclusion 404-419 Cowley, Address of, to the New World 358 Crimes, capital, in Texas 172 Cumberland Mountains invite to farming 338 Dakota and some European areas 10 Daniel, Samuel, on the future of the English language . . . 357 D'Argenson, Marquis, predicts very much for the United States ' 361-364 Davis, Jefferson, suppression of Lieutenant Stevens's Report on lands of the Northwest 126 Debts, national, of United States and Europe compared . . . 341 424 INDEX. Page Pocivilization in early Canada 179, 180 Def^eiKTiition of hnniigrants in tlitir families . 177, 178, 198, 199 Desert lajuls, sale of 135, 1.36 De Soto, grant of land to 138, 139 Do Tocqueviile, and the United States as covering the conti- nent 383-385 Dinisdale's book, •'Vi,^ri!antes of Montana" 220,227 Discovery of America and ntility of, topic for a prize . , . 366 Distances, Surprising, in the United States 18-26 Domain, I'liblic, extent of 399 Donations, greatest results of, in the West 312, 313 Dorciiester and a railroad 348 Dubuque's, Julion, Spanish grant 147 Duty of the hour 411, 412 Eartiiqitake at New Madrid amusingly explained . . 207, 208 East, incredulity of, about the West 266, 267 and West, early rivalry of 47-51 and West, line on the United States, half-way point of . . 25 defended by Webster in his great Reply to Hayne . . 284-288 opposes internal improvements 288-291 Eastern benevolence fully responsive to facts 218-220 hostility to the West conceded by Webster .... 287, 288 Jealousy and Neglect of the West 263-313 men and frontier work, a failure with Indians 62 statesmen provincial 291, 292 Education in early Louisiana Territory 203 spirit of, heroic on frontier 214-216 Emigration is moral exposure 178, 194-197 Emigrants of old often inferior 178 of fortune and American nomads 197 usually the most energetic 410 Empire of the Future 355-403 Englishmen in the United States 18 Erie Canal, origin and opening of, in 1825 48 European and American distances contrasted 18-25 Events crowding on each other in the United States . . 363, 364 Exports of the United States in 1880 335 Expresses and stages, early 47 Ezekiel the prophet, — did he ever see a locomotive ? . 339, 340 Farm land of United States and of Europe equal 341 Farm lands, soldiers not good judges of 125 INDEX. 425 Farms in Illinois before and after the railroad came . . 321, 322 now only one sixth of our arable land 337, 340 Farrar, Canon, and his surprise . . 411 Florida, early condition and the purchase of by the United States 33, 34 Food supplies, mainly from the West 265, 26G Foote's Resolution, hostile to the West . . . . . . 283, 284 Fort Dearborn built at Chicago, 1803 61 Fort Miamis, founding of, unknown 56 Forsyth, Robert A., a teacher in Chicago 70 France sells Louisiana to the United States 30-32 loses North America on Plains of Abraham 28 Franciscan Jlissions in California 146 Franklin, B., anecdote of, and American Desert . . . 136, 137 Freight, costs of, by wagon, canal, and railroad in New York 323, 324 cost of, over the plains before railroads 320, 321 on flour from Minneapolis to New York 336 Frontier, condition of, before the Revolution 42, 43 Gadsden Purchase, amount, cost, worth, and policy of . . 37, 38 Galiani's great hope from America 372, 373 Galisteo, an incident at 169-172 Gallatin, Albert, on Oregon as a separate government . 279, 280 Geograplu' of the United States, early defects of ... . 94-96 Georgia seizes the public land 152, 153 Gladstone on America as leading the nations . 393, 394, 396, 397 Gorges and IMason's grant of wild land 139, 140 Government as a fur trader, and fails 62 natural to Americans 245, 246, 253-255, 258 Grain and mineral region in Southwest equal to Great Britain and Ireland 338 Grants of land by the United States 155-158 Gregoire, Abbe, presages high destiny to the United States 382, 383 " Great American Desert," the 93-137 made green 340 Great Salt Lake, increase of water in 130 Growth of population by per cents in some States 342 of the nation East and West compared 312, 313 in population 408 remarkable case of 408, 409 Guadalupe Hidalgo, treaty of, and amount of territory conveyed 12 Guarie, tirst occupant of Chicago 58 Half-breed life and families 180-182 Hartley, David, extremely hopeful of the American future 381, 382 426 INDEX. Page Hartford Convention and Western growth 273-277 Ilawes, Dr. Joul, and call to Cliicaf,'o 87, 88 Ilazen, Gen. W. 15., on limits of farming land West . . . 120-126 Home missionary work \>y the United Stales for Great Britain 12, 13 work for Americans atjiiiidant 212, 413 Horse-tliicf, a general term for a desperate criminal .... 253 Hunt, Wilson 1'., expedition of, a calamity to Astor and to American geography 108, 109 Illinois and Michigan Canal Company 70 Land Company and immense purchase, 1773 •. . . . 55, 56 Land Company of 1773 56, 57 owes growth to railway' 314, 315 lUitcrac}' in Illinois and Missouri, why 212 in Southwest under Papal education 207 Immigration to Chicago great in 1831-34 72-74 to the United States in fifteen j'ears, and in sixty . 376, 377 Immigrants, false view of, corrected 277 hardships of 208, 209 Indian land purchase, a great 56, 57 sale of lands to private persons forbidden by Congress in 1781 57 Indians at Chicago in 1831 78 Independence of American Colonies predicted by Sir Thomas Browne 359 Introduction vii, viii Iowa owes growth to railway 315, 316 Irrigation from the Missouri, Colorado, and Columbia . . . 340 Jefferson, Thomas, on United States as a model for the world 383 wisdom of, in the purchase of Louisiana 275 Kansas cattle ranges in 1870 21-23 Kentucky neglected by the East 282 King, James, shot in San Francisco 246 Kinzie house of Chicago, romantic histoiy of 90-92 John, first white family at Chicago 61 Land grants by France in the Southwest 148-149 grants confirmed in California and New Mexico . . . 142-147 grants by Spanish, French, and English governments 139-150 INDEX. 427 Page Land of the United States unsold 405 "rings" in old times 140, 141 seizure in old times also 152-155 Landholdings, large Eastern 268, 269 Large, in the United States 138-168 large, near Washington 141 Las Animas, first common school in 213 Latrobe, Charles Joseph, and Chicago in 1833 83 Law. John, and his Mississippi bubble 148, 149 Leadville, rough life and moral forces in 260-262 Lewis and Clark's expedition in 1803 96, 97 Locomotive as a home missionary 212, 213 in Las Animas 342-344 " London Times " on the United States census of 1880 . 401-403 Louisiana, extent of, westward 30-32 land sales in, opposed 269-273 purchase of, by the United States 29-32 purchase, hostility to, by Josiah Quincy 293-300 quiet transfer of, to the United States 392, 393 sold to the United States by Napoleon 30 settlements in, dangerous to the Union 271 secret sale of, by France to Spain 29 Lynch Law ..." 221-262 and border society 259-262 continuance of, in Montana 238 demands for, in Montana 221-226 in early Kentucky 257, 258 in San Francisco, origin of 238-244 more common than supposed 252, 253 reasons for 228-230, 234, 244-246, 258, 259 cited in " Boston Review " 227,228 Macnamara plot in California 147 Mail facilities for the West refused 282 Mails and letters, early provisions for 47 Marquette at Chicago 54 Mduvaises Terres 113, 115-119 McDuffie, hostilitj- to Western improvements 287 Mexican addition to the United States, how much .... 12 why, and what 34-36 Military reservations of wild lands 44 Mississippi and Missouri Valley, the extent of 13, 14 Mississippi Valley and Roman Empire in comparative areas 13, 14 Mowry, Sylvester, on life in Arizona and Sonora 173 428 INDEX. Page Napoleon's judgment on the American future 390 Niilional above State power 311,312 National cxix lulitures in United States and Europe compared . 341 Nevada City, Montana, Lyncli law in 224 New Kiigiand, and sale of Western lands 48-50 New Jerusalem in America 359, 300 New Mexico long neglected by Christians 213, 214 New Orleans as a walled town 20G early education in 203 New Spain and Lieutenant Pike's description of ... . 175, 176 Northern Pacific K. K., belt and area of 11 Ohio Companj' and Lynch law 255-257 and common schools 200 land grants to 267-269 opposition to 268 Ohio Land Company, the first, and crown grant of land to 149, 150 the second, and Eastern opposition to 49 the first, 1749 44 " Old times " sighed for 336,337 Ordinance of 1787 in Ohio, and education 200, 201 Oregon as a separate government, favored by some . . 276-280 Oregon before and after the railway 331, 332 earh' excursions to, and trials of 19 negfected by the East 281 no legislation on till 1843 280 Outlawry in the new country 172-199 Outlaws of Montana, arrest, trial, and execution of . . 230-238 Pacific coast of the United States, length of 14, 15 Paley, William, regards the extent of empire as unprecedented 381 Papal control of education in Louisiana 203-205 Parliament, transfer of, to the Colonies 370, 371 Peel, Sir Robert, prediction as to Chicago and Milwaukee . . 87 Penn, William, on our country as magnificent 390 Philadelphia to be " the Athens of mankind " 361 Pike, Lieut. Z. M., on the " American Desert " .... 97, 98 Pioneering in Education 200-220 Pioneers of the present, worthj' of highest honor 416 early, hard life of 50-52 Plains of Abraham and Bunker Hill, seventeen years apart . 363 " Population Company'' of Virginia and sharp practice . 154, 155 Population, centre of, in United States, where 265 INDEX. 429 Population, increase of, in the United States as compared with European 405, 406 Populations of the new country mixed 176, 177 Porter, Rev. Dr. J., and Chicago in 1833 78 Powell Major J. W., on arid lands and rainfall 127-129 Pownall, Thomas, who 373 on the grand destinies of the United States .... 373-376 Prairies of Illinois in 1840 24 Price, Dr. Richard, on America as the refuge of mankind . . 371 Printing-office, first in Canada, 1720, and sent out 20G Private schools before the public one 202, 203 Prophecies of our growth, logical deductions .... 355, 356 Providence the founder of the United States 418 Public lands and common schools 200, 201 QuiNCY, Josiah, journey of, from Boston to Washington . . 347 on the West 293-300 Railroads, amusing dread of 348 and the workinginan 336 and religious and theological harmony 351-353 as a power for national defence 344. 345 equalize prices 323, 324 bring the country together 326 indispensable to develop the West 314 promote travel, harmony, and so insure the Union . . . 346 a great power for American civilization 342 and the exports 335 bring markets near 329-331 earlier, might have saved the peace of the country . . . 349 future growth of 337 have made the Pacific States possible and prosperous . . 353 growth of, in the West illustrated 339 in Missouri 328, 329 when opened 326, 327 a binding power for the Union 344, 348 utilize natural values 321 Wyoming and the live stock 334 Railway System of the West 314-354 Ranges, ranches, and stock-farms 159-168 Rapidity of settlement 408, 409 Raynal, Abbe, prediction of, and offered prize 366 Republic, the weakness of our 413, 414 Republics, dead, a warning 415, 416 430 INDEX. Page Roads, national and military 47 Kocky Mountains placed wrong by Eastern men . . . 278,279 liyswick, Treaty of, 1607 58 Sabbath on the border 183-186 Salmon lisheries and the railroads 330, 331 San Francisco, early settlers of 239-244 early violence in 182, 183 St. Peter's, the building of 417, 418 Schoolcraft at Chicago in 1830 68 Schoolhouse, a prin)itive and typical one 209-211 Schools scarce on the borders 209 Selkirk's Red River Settlement 180, 181 Settlements, growth in 42-52 position of, at close of Revolution 42 of wild land, colonial and provincial policy of ... 42-52 Sewall, Samuel, on growth of American Colonies . . . 359, 360 Shuckford, John, journey of, from Portsmouth, N. H., to St. Louis 347 Shetheld's, the Baron, forebodings of America .... 397, 398 Shipley, Jonathan, Bishop, growth, independence, and exam- ple of the American Colonies 367, 368 Simpson, Sir George, boast of 15, 16 Smith, Adam, on colonial representation in Parliament . . . 370 Social life in New Mexico 183 Society, morals of, in the Southwest 187-190 Sons of New Hampshire, festival of, and Webster 355 Spain and the boundary of 1783 28 Spanish and French colonies in America dwarfed by isolation 353 Spanish and Mexican land grants guaranteed by the United States in Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo 141-146 Stock-raising in wild land 158, 159 Sturgis, William, on worth of Oregon 279 Success of the past of the United States unprecedented . . . 417 " Sylvestris " on the Cession of Louisiana 393 on the Louisiana Purchase . . . . ■ 272 Symmes's land schemes 46 Taxes in United States and Europe 341 Tecumseh and the War of 1812 64, 65 Texas, earlj' condition, and the purchase of by the United States 34-36 area of 9, 10 INDEX. 431 The Prophet precipitates Indian War at Tippecanoe .... 65 The West, how large 9-17 Tippecanoe, battle of 64, 65 Transportation grades values 318 the great question in the United States 337 Travel in old time 346, 347 more at home, desirable 350, 351 Turgot's remarkably correct prophecies 364 United States, area of, in comparison with Europe . . 14, 17 at close of Revolution 41 civil and moral power of, in the world 391, 392 compared variously with other nations 399-401 domain undivided 407, 408 and Europe contrasted 340-342 and France in comparative areas 9 and pAirope, population to each square mile 341 "United States of Yesterday and of To-morrow," not a history but illustrative chapters of 54 United States, the power of, civil, social, and moral .... 391 six growths of, in territory 27-40 wealth of, in 1880 . . " 391 Ursuline Nuns in Louisiana 204, 205 Utah Basin, and increase of water 130 Vergennes, Count de, plots against the j'oung Republic . 378-380 afraid of the results of independence of the Colonies . 377-380 Vermont, Southern feeling on the admission of 276 Vigilance Committee, character and proceedings of . . 235, 236 of San Francisco 238 1851, main work of 242 Vigilance Committee of San Francisco, suspension of . 251, 252 its designs 240-242 methods of 246, 250 Vigilantes of Montana, one of them interviewed 223 Virginia, scheme of emigration of 45 City, Montana, Lynch law in 224-226 Waldo Patent 140 Walpole, Horace, great friend of the Colonies .... 369, 370 War debt of United States and of Europe 341 War of 1812, Indian preparations for 64, 65 432 INDEX. Page Wasliington and Western travel 2G3-265 carries first Englisli iUv^ into tlie West 28 on dan<,fers of tlie frontier 27 on home travel 350 on Western development 48 family and Western lands 44 Territor}- lumber waiting for railway 317 Water, increase of, in arid lands 129-133 Wayne, General, and tlie Indians CO Webb, George, and the future of Philadelphia 361 Webster defends the West 2'J2 on our growth 355 on the United States as taking the Continent 389 Webster's admiration of the vast 16 defence of the East, weak point in 286, 287 estimates of the pioneers 277, 278 West not understood by the East 308, 309 Western Colleges, Webster's plea for 220 land fever in early days 44, 45 land speculators 45, 46 boundary, struggle for, in the treaty of 1783 .... 27, 28 limits of' United States in 1783 28, 29 Whitman, Dr. Marcus, brings Oregon to light, and into the Union 280 Wild Life on the Border 169-199 Winthrop, Robert C, on Oregon 279, 280 "Winthrope's, Mrs. Margt," land grant 141 Work, immediate, energetic, and sacrificing, demanded of American Christians 414, 415 University Press : John Wilson & Son, Cambridge. 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