SKETCHES OF TRAVELS 
 
 SOUTH AMERICA, 
 
 MEXICO AND CALIFORNIA. 
 
 BY 
 L. ]Vt. S O H-A-KFE^ E5 R, 
 
 NEW-TORK: 
 JAMES EGBERT, PRINTER, 321 PEARL ST REET. 
 
 1860.
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, 
 
 By L. M. SHAEFFER, 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Maryland.
 
 
 TO 
 
 MY BELOVED WIFE, 
 
 @;i)is JBook is affectionately 
 
 INSCRIBED. 
 
 903525 
 
 I
 
 PREFACE 
 
 AVhile pursuing a journey to and from California, some years since, 
 and during my sojourn there, I kept a daily record of " what I 
 saw and did." It was a source of great interest and pleasure to 
 me, especially as it was written and continued at the desire of the 
 dear and valued friend to whom this book is dedicated. And being 
 a stranger, wandering among strangers, often deprived of all con- 
 genial society, it became my chief delight to note down my im- 
 pressions of the countries I visited. 
 
 Of course, my recollections of events and occurrences are stronger 
 
 and more vivid than they would otherwise have been, and since my 
 
 return many questions having been asked by acquaintances relative 
 
 to a miner's life &c., frequent reference to my journal has been made. 
 
 One of the editors of a religious paper, who had often listened to my 
 
 reminiscences of a life among the miners, solicited me to contribute 
 
 articles for his paper, which appeared uudcr the signature of Quartz : 
 
 and were continued until I had communicated the principal incidents 
 
 of my three years absence. Tliese articles, it gives me pleasure to 
 
 say, were favorably received, and I have been frequently requested 
 
 to publish them in book form. They are now oflfered to the public, 
 
 with diffidence and some little hesitancy — and while they may 
 
 possess no^literary merit, still a full and correct history of events 
 
 which came under my own observation, will, it is hoped, compensate 
 
 for other deficiencies. 
 
 L. M. S. 
 
 Frederick, Md., 18G0.
 
 CHAPTER, I. 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA GOLD FEVER— A BERTH SECURED— LEAV- 
 ING NEW YORK— SEA SICKNESS— SUN SET— CONFUSION ON 
 BOARD THE SHIP— A SIGHT OF LAND, &C. &C. 
 
 The excitement attending the first discovery of gold in 
 California was intense as it was universal. Indeed it was 
 considered as an epidemic, and those who determined to 
 seek their fortunes in that far off land, were said to have 
 caught the California gold fever. A voyage thither, was 
 at that time attended with vexatious delays and annoying 
 inconveniences ; yet tempted by the almost fabulous tales 
 of fortunes acquired as if by magic, thousands of venture- 
 some youth and even men advanced in years, left home 
 and friends, dared the dangers of the deep and endured 
 the hardships of the pioneer's life to secure a portion of 
 the glittering metal. Early in the year 1849 I first con- 
 ceived the idea of a trip to California, and repaired to New 
 York to gain all the information I could, purchase my out- 
 fit and secure a berth in one of the many trailing vessels 
 leaving that port. 
 
 After numerous delays and disappointments, T succeed- 
 ed in obtaining passage in the ship Flavius. On Saturday, 
 March 24th, 1849, my younger brother W. and myself sat
 
 8 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 down to breakfast together for the last time ; our hearts 
 saddened by the reflection that perhaps we might never 
 again enjoy that privilege. Although the meal was invit- 
 ing, I had no disposition to eat. In vain my brother, in 
 his efforts to conceal his own feelings, urged me to par- 
 take heartily, for I felt so peculiarly queer ! so much like 
 a school boy, about to leave his happy home, for a six 
 month's residence beneath the roof of some rigid school 
 or seminary, that I had no appetite for either food or drink. 
 " Come, gentlemen your time is up." I bade farewell to my 
 acquaintances about the hotel and followed my kind friends, 
 listlessly to the wharf. It was not, that the ship Flavins 
 was pronounced by some, unseaworthy, not that others 
 declared she would rot ere we reached California, that I 
 felt so sad and gloomy; oh no, but because I was about to 
 separate from a few highly valued friends, and I dreaded 
 the long time that must elapse ere we would meet again. 
 
 As we hove in sight of the Flavius, we saw crowds of 
 men, women and children standing on the wharf — some 
 were taking a last farewell, others were imparting excel- 
 lent advice, which I thought was listened to with one ear 
 and rapidly passed out of the other, and others again were 
 mingling tears of love, grief and hope, for even in that 
 hour of departure, they were anticipating the pleasure of 
 a future meeting. But hark ! man overboard — " throw 
 over a rope" — "stand back men" — "now, pull up — hold"
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 9 
 
 — he is safe, A son of Neptune, "had a brick in his hat," 
 and the weight being top-heavy, caused him to lose his 
 balance, he went in drunk and was pulled out sober ! Our 
 " A, No. 1, coppered and copper-fastened" ship Flavius, 
 was riding at anchor as cosily as a cape pigeon just after 
 a storm. " All aboard," whew! what a rusli to theship — 
 " Man the windlass" — the sailors sang lustily — cheers 
 were given and returned — we were soon gracefully sailing 
 from the wharf and forest of masts, under the *' immedi- 
 ate assistance" of a steam-tug. Many friends of the Cali- 
 fornia bound passengers were on board. The band of mu- 
 sic engaged for the occasion struck up Yankee Doodle. 
 Away we went, every passenger excited, each one gazing 
 intently upon the Tast I\Ietropolitan city, as we receded 
 from its piles of brick and stone. 
 
 I knew as much about a ship as a backwoodsman, and 
 when the anchor was let go, those of us, who were un- 
 acquainted with the sudden splash of the anchor in the wa- 
 ter, and the rattling of the heavy linked chain, started, 
 and cried out, " what is that ?" to the infinite amusement 
 of the " old salts," who took especial delight in watching 
 the blunders of landsmen. The steamer carried us to the 
 Quarantine landing ; and as she parted from us, cheer 
 upon cheer was given and returned with a hearty will, 
 hats and handkerchiefs were waved aloft. Good bye, 
 and good bye was given and returned until the steamer
 
 10 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 passed out of sight — and we were left alone to await the 
 coming of the Captain, who did not come aboard until 
 tiie following day, the 25th, when we "gold hunters" salut- 
 ed him with cheers and sang in right good style Hail Co- 
 lumbia. The pilot took command, and off we sailed with 
 a stiff breeze, and when we were out sight of land, hem- 
 med in by the horizon, the pilot left us, and now we felt 
 that we were bound in earnest for California. A few 
 passengers were sea sick for a day or two — and if any one 
 can imagine a fellow being utterly wretched, perfectly in- 
 different as to whether the ship kept straight on her course 
 or sank beneath the waters, some idea may be formed of the 
 awful sufferings of sea-sick voyagers. Passengers rushed to 
 the table without the slightest order or system, the strong- 
 est secured the most food, and the proceedings on board 
 were so aggravating, that we held a meeting, drew up rules 
 and regulations for our comfort and convenience ; after 
 which we managed to live along more comfortably. 
 
 Monday, April 30th. Beautiful weather, lovely sunset, 
 His majesty gracefully descended below the horizon, leav- 
 ing a sky richly colored, now representing a magnificent 
 viaduct, underneath a fiery flame — and then assuming a 
 more calm and lovely aspect, seeming as though the 
 Heavens were transformed into a matchless panorama of 
 meadows, lakes and rivulets, and these again swept out of 
 sight by a gorgeous curtain of scarlet and crimson hues.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 1 1 
 
 About midnight, we crossed the " equatorial line," a fact 
 impressed upon all by the performance of that absurd 
 and contemptible ceremony, of Neptune, demanding ho- 
 mage of those passengers, who had " never before crossed 
 the line." However, I ought not to complain, for his High- 
 ness, very kindly spared me the fine and punishment Not 
 so with some others, who not only received a " terrible 
 ducking" of salt water — but had slush and black paint 
 thrown over them. Our Captain, seemed to enjoy the 
 sport heartily — but I could not relish the foolish custom 
 as much as some others did. 
 
 Tuesday, May 15th. About 10 o'clock, A. M., we came 
 in sight of Cape Frio — which presented a pleasing and 
 interesting view. We had so often and so long been wish- 
 ing for only a " snuff" of land, that our hearts beat high, 
 when we strained our eyes to catch a glimpse of the dis- 
 tant shore. Rio de Janeiro is only about eighty miles 
 distant. Towards evening the water assumed a light 
 green color — we were on soundings. Owing to the rather 
 dangerous channel, and there being no pilots at Rio, as at 
 most other seaports, we " took in studding sails, and laid 
 to" until morning. The sunset was attended with won- 
 drous beauty — descending behind a lofty hill, which seem- 
 ed to have just jumped from under the water, and on 
 either side of which, chanced to be a vessel, the whole 
 presenting a novel and lovely scene. As he disappeared
 
 12 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 the clouds assumed a rich golden hue, followed as usual 
 by a flame colored sky, which continued until night ad- 
 vanced. 
 
 As we hoped to effect an anchorage ere twenty-four 
 hours, and a heavy dew was falling, I sought my "bunk" 
 and was soon wrapt in slumber deep and sound. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 RIO DE JANEIRO. 
 
 Wednesday, May 16th, 1849. Ship ahoy ! Where are 
 you from ? But before our captain could satisfactorily an- 
 swer, there came a more terrible order from the fort. Ship 
 ahoy ! Keep from shore — put out your boat — steer north ! 
 Here then, was excitement — the night was dark — we heard 
 the loud roar of the breakers, and found we were in a cross 
 current, almost becalmed, and drifting towards the shore of 
 rocks. Over was tossed our long-boat: in jumped strong, 
 stout men, and away they pulled and worked, but still was 
 our faithful old ship drifting towards the shore, amid roar- 
 ing waves and vociferous shouts from the fort; confusion 
 reigned supreme. Some wanted the anchor let go, others 
 were preparing for a watery grave, or a sudden hurl against 
 the rugged, naked, slimy rocks. When, ah ! all at once, 
 we heard from the fort — all safe ! all safe !
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 13 
 
 A brilliant light was displayed on the top of the wall 
 of the fort, which was soon answered by a rocket from 
 the city, denoting that the authorities were aware another 
 vessel had entered their harbor. Onr anchor was soon 
 let go : each man told what he did during our imminent 
 danger. Of course no one was frightened ! Finally, we 
 all settled down in the arms of Somnus, dreaming, perhaps, 
 of the loved ones at home. 
 
 As the light of another day began to peep over the 
 rugged, romantic hills surrounding the harbor, I too, 
 peeped over the side of the vessel to catch a glimpse of 
 the city. Soon the Custom-house officials boarded us, 
 and after satisfying themselves that all was right, the 
 captain told us to go a-shore, which privilege very many 
 of the passengers at once accepted. 
 
 A party of twelve of us engaged a boat alongside to 
 take us ashore. Our oarsmen were black as night, and 
 they would rise up when they pulled their oars, and dance, 
 and sing, and whistle for the breeze to sjjring up, which, 
 however, had no eifect, for it was calm as a summer's 
 morn ; however, we were at last landed, and a more filthy, 
 sickly, trifling set of beings lounging about the wharves, 
 I have never seen before nor since, nor desire to see again. 
 There were two hotels convenient to the landing, one of 
 which was conducted by a New Yorker, but the accommo- 
 dations were miserable. The Emperor's chapel is near by,
 
 14 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 but will not compare with the Baltimore Exchange. In 
 almost every street we saw soldiers, nearly all of whom 
 were blacks, parading or lounging about. The houses are 
 generally two stories in height, no chimneys, as the climate 
 is not only warm, but hot. Gardens, yards and cellars are 
 no where seen. Thegutters are in the middle of the streets, 
 which are narrow and need very much the attention of 
 the street sweeper. The mechanics and merchants, unlike 
 our custom, congregate together ; for instance, jewellers 
 occupy one street to themselves, so through all the other 
 branches of trade. The ladies go abroad, only to church ; 
 but as service is held every day, they can easily manage 
 to get out ; pews are not used; each person has a cushion, 
 on which the faithful can kneel and repeat their numerous 
 prayers. 
 
 I visited a monastery, built in 1671. I was very po- 
 litely received. There is a chapel in the building most 
 gorgeously embellished, the floors inlaid with variegated 
 marble, the walls with porcelain and China squares, re- 
 lieved by gilt and scarlet lines. There is also in the 
 room a large China figure of our Saviour on the cross. 
 
 The navy yard next demanded my attention ; but there 
 was nothing attractive about it. One vessel was on the 
 stocks ; but I should suppose, by the time it was finished, 
 the wood would be pretty much decayed, for all the work- 
 men had adopted the " take your time system,"
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 15 
 
 Several fountains are distributed over the city, around 
 which hundreds of blacks were collecting water in casks, 
 which they carry on their heads to the various families, 
 hydrants and pipes being unknown to the Brazilians ; and 
 these poor degraded blacks carry sacks of coffee, bales 
 and boxes on their heads, taking the place of drays and 
 carts ; but they are short lived ; about seven years fin- 
 ishes them entirely. 
 
 In a large open square, without shade or any protection 
 
 from the sun, crowds of almost naked negro women were 
 
 washing and pounding clothes, the sun pouring down hot 
 
 upon their uncovered heads, and yet they appear happy ! 
 
 " Where igaorance is bliss — 'tis folly to be wise." 
 
 The Market houses I found large and cleanly. But the 
 meat had the appearance of lean horse flesh. They want 
 a Yankee butcher among them. There was an abundance 
 of fruit and flowers, birds both alive and stuffed, and fish, 
 but vegetables and butter were not to be had at any price. 
 Here I sawfctwo "birds of Paradise," quite tame, certainly 
 the prettiest birds I have ever seen. 
 
 The museum is only open to the public on Sunday. At 
 the entrance I observed two cages, in each were two im- 
 mense boa constrictors, alive and apparently disposed for 
 a meal. In the window above was a large, lively white 
 eagle, and pigeons thrice larger than our own. The entire 
 exhibition is on one floor of an ordinary building, and the cu-
 
 16 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 riosities were chiefly stuffed birds, minerals, coins, a mum- 
 my, and pictures. I paid most attention to the birds, for 
 I discovered that they were chiefly from our own country. 
 
 Seeing a large crowd of persons in front of one of the 
 numerous churches, I joined them, and discovered that 
 they were attending the burial of a wealthy citizen. None 
 of the family were present. All the mourners were hired, 
 each holding alighted candle, and standing in military array, 
 while around the corpse, which was exposed on an eleva- 
 ted bier, richly gilt, the officiating priests were sprinkling 
 holy water, and chanting Latin prayers ; after which the 
 corpse was carried by four priests, followed by the crowd, 
 into an adjoining apartment, where it was placed in an 
 aperture in the wall and left exposed ; a few more chaunts 
 and prayers, and we were ordered out. It appears the 
 bodies are covered with lime, and when the flesh is de- 
 stroyed, the bones are thrown into a common pit. 
 
 The prevailing religion throughout the state is Eoman 
 Catholic, and crosses are placed on the top of* every pub- 
 lic building. 
 
 I found a number of Americans doing business out here, 
 who, of course, are visited by their countrymen whenever 
 they arrive, and appear to be prosperously employed. 
 
 Upon the whole, Eio is not a desirable place of resi- 
 dence, but the surrounding country is delightful ; scenery 
 graudj and people hospitable.
 
 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 17 
 
 Our captain notified me that the ship was ready to sail, 
 so I jumped aboard a boat, and gave a final adieu to Bra- 
 zil, and was soon treading the decks of our American ves- 
 sel, with the " delightful prospect" of a " sail round the 
 Horn," in the very worst season of the year. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LEAVING BEAZIL— SCENES ON BOARD THE VESSEL- 
 STORMS, &C. &C. 
 
 Thursday, May 24th, 1S49. " Come men, hurry aboard." 
 The flag is flying — the signal given — our old ship is ready 
 to set sail. "Man the windlass" was ordered — up camo 
 the anchor — the sails were unfurled — and away we sailed 
 — but hark ! from the antiquated Fort, was sounded — 
 " Americana, ship ahoy V — Hello, responded our Cap- 
 tain — "What de pass word ?" — '' Margarieto" was answer- 
 ed — •' Very good, 'tis very good" — and away we sailed, 
 glad enough to resume our voyage to California. We es- 
 pied a brig ahead, which appeared to us, to be dancing a 
 Virginia reel on the high sea ; and I suppose if any ves- 
 sel had been in our wake, we would have presented the 
 same appearance. The weather was damp, chilly and 
 windy, but did not appear to affect the spirits of the pas- 
 sengers, some of whom were singing " A life on the ocean
 
 /8 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 wave" — and otliers " I'm bound for California" — the 
 rest sought their bunks, while the Flavius kept steadily 
 on her course. Finally all was still, save the occasional 
 hoarse voice of the officer on deck — and the melancholy 
 howl of the wind, as it swept through the rigging. 
 
 Thursday, May 31st. One week just elapsed since we 
 bid adieu to Rio — having sailed eight hundred miles du- 
 ring that time. Passengers found amusement in catch- 
 ing, with hook and line. Cape pigeons and the Albatross. 
 The pigeons were larger than our ordinary land pigeons. 
 They are beautiful birds, looking more like ducks than pi- 
 geons, having on their breasts a soft, pure white down, 
 which would make an Astor house pillow blush— they are 
 web-footed, and cannot fly from deck, unless the wind 
 strikes them, and then they stretch their wings and grace- 
 fully sail away. 
 
 One of the Albatross measured ten feet from one tip of 
 the wing to the other, and from the back of his head to 
 the end of his bill twelve inches. The prettiest cape pi- 
 geon was reserved and preparatory to being stufi'ed, was 
 suspended from the main top — but the wind blowing hard, 
 soon carried the beautiful prize beyond the ruthless hand 
 of the amateur artist. 
 
 Friday, June 22d. *' Three cheers," — our Captain tells 
 us we are " around the Horn" — and we found he was right 
 when he said " Some of you are making a great fuss about
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 19 
 
 rounding the Horn, and I'll venture the assertion we will 
 round the Cape without any one knowing it ;" and so wo 
 did — and right merry we were at the announcement. Du- 
 ring the severest blow, when the sea rolled mountains 
 high — wave after wave dashing over our staunch vessel, 
 when the raging waters looked black with rage, I stood 
 alone in the "forward hatch," holding on to "a stancheon" 
 — watching the fury of the storm, with mingled feelings 
 of awe and pleasure. The " hatches" were fastened down 
 — the sails were clewed up — we had sailed for some days 
 under " bare poles." Our days, for about a fortnight be- 
 gan at 9 A. M. and ended about 2 P. M., and time hung 
 heavy upon our hands. We found most comfort in our 
 bunks, for we could scarcely venture on deck without re- 
 ceiving a fall or undergoing a salt water bath. 
 
 Sunday, June 24th. This day completed three months 
 of our tedious voyage ; and this day we encountered one of 
 the most terrific gales, we had thus far experienced. " Old 
 Salts" declared they had never witnessed a more furious 
 storm — we lost our "jib and foretop mast stay sail" — and 
 felt ourselves fortunate in escaping so well. Our vessel 
 rolled to and fro — and pitched "fore and aft" without re- 
 «2?eci! to persons, trunks, dishes, et cetera — the wind whist- 
 led through the rigging, as though Neptune and his whole 
 train of worshippers were engaged in serenading us. 
 
 Wednesday, July 4th. As we had anticipated much
 
 20 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 pleasure in celebrating the memorable Fourtli on board the 
 Flavins, but when we peeped out at early dawn, we saw 
 our anticipations were not to be realized. The sea was 
 rough, and the rain poured down fast and heavy. Every 
 passenger felt keenly disappointed, for we had made ar- 
 rangements to have " a good time" on the glorious natal 
 day of American Independence, However, the American 
 people, "know no such word as fail." The passengers 
 assembled midships, in the saloon, which was in reality 
 nothing but the steerage or between decks. The author 
 read the Declaration of Independence, and owing to the 
 sickness of the duly appointed orator, delivered a few re- 
 remarks, followed by about twenty others — and thus with 
 speeches, songs and sentiment, we whiled away the day, 
 doing our best to commemorate the glorious Fourth. 
 
 Thursday, July 12th. Magnificent sun rise. The ocean 
 during the day was calm as a lake. The atmosphere warm 
 and agreeable, and sky and clouds presenting a succession 
 of rich and varied views. 
 
 Whales seen at a distance, spouting water high in the 
 air, accompanied by a noise resembling the sound of a 
 high pressure engine. We expected to make Valparaiso 
 before many hours, and of course every passenger was ex- 
 cited with the hope of soon stepping ashore once more ; 
 for hardly any circumstance can be so delightful to a sea 
 voyager as the prospect of soon reaching port.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 VALPAEAISO AND ITS INHABITANTS. 
 
 About 1 o'clock p. M. the anchor was let go, and our 
 dangerous and disagreeable voyage around the inhospitable 
 coast of Patagonia was over. Each man gazed wistfully 
 at the wild Chilian scenry, and viewed with delight the 
 city of Valparaiso, built upon hills and surrounded by vol- 
 canic looking eminences, heartily wishing the lazy cus- 
 tom house oflBcials would come on board and permit us to 
 go ashore. 
 
 As the light of another day dawned, bringing with it 
 the dews and cold of a Chilian morning, I anxiously peer- 
 ed over the side of the vessel, fearful the rain would de- 
 scend and add to the gloom of ray already sombre feel- 
 ings. But about 9 o'clock the glorious, ever welcome 
 sun came forth in all its splendor, dispelling the dew and 
 dampness, and I ventured aboard a " dug out," and for 
 two reals (25 cents) was rowed to the landing. Here I 
 saw some of the natives lounging about the old rickety 
 wharves, with their fancy colored blankets thrown around 
 them, and wearing a sharp-pointed, Chinese-looking hat, 
 which serves both as an umbrella and sun-shade. 
 
 Valparaiso is built something in the form of a horse- 
 shoe, and extends over considerable space. The general
 
 22 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 style of building is far more pleasiug than in Eio. I ob- 
 served some very comfoi'table residences, but there are 
 many mere " Adobes." The Custom House is in front of 
 the landing — a one storied, dull looking building. On the 
 right is the Merchant's Exchange and Reading Room, in 
 which I found some old New York papers. Underneath 
 is a large ship chandlery establishment, owned by au 
 American. To the left is an old, almost dilapidated build- 
 ing, called the " Hole in the Wall," and I found it a hole 
 indeed — in which crowds were drinking the various stimu- 
 lating liquors, which make fools of all who too freely im- 
 bibe. The hotels are quite comfortable, and I found the 
 landlord of the " Baltimore House," (where I dined,) a 
 native of old Maryland. The " Star Hotel" opposite, is 
 presided over by Monsieur Frenchman. Passing up Main 
 street, I found the stores numerous — goods well arrang- 
 ed, but prices exorbitant. Perfumery, gaudily labelled, 
 takes well. 
 
 Along the upper part of the street small wares were dis- 
 played on the sidewalk, and as I am about as conver- 
 sant with the Spanish language as with the Chinese, the 
 incessant gabbling of the crowd was of course unintelli- 
 gible. But the manners and customs of the natives are so 
 different from our own, that I had plenty of incidents to 
 amuse and interest me. 
 
 Whoa ! whoa ! — ah, here comes a fine team, a clumsy,
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 23 
 
 pig-pen looking wagon, perched on two clumsier wheels cut 
 out of solid wood, drawn by two miserable looking oxen, 
 which were treading along a little behind 2.40 time. 
 And here dashed along two mules, on one of which sat a 
 postillion, with a spur about a foot long, digging it into the 
 sides of the mules, which were drawing a vehicle, closely 
 resembling one of our old-fashioned, high-top gigs, in 
 which were seated two pretty signoritas. The ladies go 
 abroad at all times, wearing a gay colored shawl over their 
 heads, and are polite and social in their manners. Again 
 I was attracted by a familiar sound — the rolling and tumb- 
 ling of nine-pins. I peeped into one of the numerous 
 bowling alleys, and saw many of my own countrymen enjoy- 
 ing the exercise ; much more lively and agreeable they 
 seemed than when a-board their respective vessels. 
 
 Extending my walk outside of the city, I observed a 
 large number of donkeys and goats slowly wending their 
 way down a tortuous path, through the irregular hills. 
 The patient, but sleepy looking donkey, not much larger 
 than a Newfovmdland dog, was laden with fire-wood and 
 country produce, and the long-bearded goat ready to sup- 
 ply the inhabitants with milk. To the Chilians these 
 animals are invaluable. In the houses of the poor, the 
 donkey, goat, dog, cat and chicken usurp the best places, 
 and in all probability are allowed the best fare. Fruits are 
 abundant, so also wild game. Liquor can be had at every
 
 24 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 store, but the natives prefer light wines, leaving brandy, 
 whiskey and gin for the foreigners to swallow. A vast 
 quantity of wheat is raised in Chili, and its flour, usually 
 packed in bags of about 100 lbs., has a high reputation. 
 Indeed, Chili offers many inducements to encourage the 
 emigration of enterprising merchants and mechanics. 
 
 The government is republican — the religion Roman 
 Catholic ; but the inhabitants appear to care more for 
 their temporal comforts than their spiritual interests. I 
 fear the morals of Valparaiso are not of the highest order; 
 yet a more social, hospitable and polite people I have 
 never met. They are remarkably fond of music ; the 
 opera is well encouraged, but in nearly every house you 
 hear the guitar, which seems to be the universal favorite ; 
 and dancing is participated in by almost every one. Call- 
 ed by an acquaintance into a house, and requested to give 
 the company a few notes on the flute, I played several of 
 our national airs, which were respectfully listened to ; but 
 when I struck up a polka, instantly the entire company 
 were on their feet, dancing away as merry and happy as 
 any set of mortals could be. 
 
 I "visited the fort, located on an eminence, overlooking 
 the harbor ; but as I was preparing to rest myself after my 
 fatiguing tramp, one of the numerous soldiers ordered me 
 to " vamose," which I did without waiting for a second 
 command.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 25 
 
 As nearly all the vessels that sail around the Horn make 
 this place their rendezvous, the shipping merchants and 
 others do a thriving and flourishing business, and the city 
 itself is sustained by the vast amount of shipping which at 
 all seasons congregate here. 
 
 Our vessel being provisioned, the signal for hoisting the 
 anchor announced, I bade adieu to Valparaiso, jumped 
 aboard a row-boat, passed several United States and Eng- 
 lish men-of-war, sprang upon the deck of our good old 
 ship, and joined the crowd in a real American huzza for 
 Chili, as we were fast sailing away, and heading for San 
 Francisco. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SAN FKANCISCO IN 1849. 
 
 After six months' endurance of the good old ship Fla- 
 vins — after an almost interminable life on the Atlantic and 
 Pacific oceans — after a surfeit of watching the rising and 
 setting sun, the circular horizon, the numerous fishes of 
 the deep, and listening to the roar of the angry waters, the 
 strike of the ship's bells, to the orders of the officers, the 
 stories of passengers and sailors — at last, on the bright 
 and beautiful morning of September 17th, 1849, we pass- 
 ed the " Golden Gate," entered the capacious and mag- 
 nificent bay of San Francisco, and let go the heavy 
 2
 
 26 SKETCHES OT TRAVELS. 
 
 anchors, amid the vociferous cheers of one hundred de- 
 lighted and grateful passengers. 
 
 Only those who have been long at sea, can appreciate 
 the happy feelings of persons, who after a long and tedious 
 voyage, are permitted to look out upon land, and can once 
 more tread mother earth. 
 
 I succeeded in procuring a standing place in a row boat 
 alongside our vessel, and was soon nearing that land whose 
 rich mineral deposits were disturbing the entire world. 
 
 '' Keep down there !" "Hold still! Wait until lean 
 fasten my boat." " Don't you see how fast the tide is run- 
 ning?" "There — you can go." We jumped ashore, and 
 I stood upon the soil of California. 
 
 So long pent up on board the ship, that when I began 
 to walk, it seemed as though the earth was heaving to and 
 fro, like some gigantic vessel. But this feeling soon pass- 
 ed off, and I pushed ahead, determined to see and hear all 
 I possibly could in San Francisco. 
 
 People from every part of the habitable globe appear- 
 ed to be congregated here. Some were hurrying off to 
 the mines — others were bartering their clothes, their 
 saw, plane, hatchet, &c., to raise funds to enable them 
 to reach the auriferous districts. Others, again, were 
 driving a brisk trade in merchandise, or were engaged in 
 hotel keeping, and preparing habitations for the coming 
 winter.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 27 
 
 People had no time to stop and talk. Rents were enor- 
 mous, prices exorbitant, and everybody acted as though 
 they had but a few hours only to attend to a year's 
 business. 
 
 With the exception of a few old stone and adobe houses, 
 the town seemed to contain nothing but tents and boarded 
 houses, some of which were brought from the States. 
 
 I reached the great centre of attraction — the bedlam of 
 the town — the plaza, or public square. Here was an im- 
 mense crowd. I could hear music, excited men shouting, 
 swearing, some laughing, and others looliing as woe- 
 begone as thougli they had lost friends, money, and even 
 hope. 
 
 Here were assembled the sporting fraternity in full force. 
 Let us enter the blue tent on the corner, known as the 
 El Dorado Saloon. Around the several tables are seated 
 gamblers surrounded by all kinds of adventui-ers. — 
 The Mexican, American, Native Oalifornian, English, 
 Dutch, French, Irish, &c. &c., clad in varied habiliments, 
 from the glossy broadcloth to the well-worn linsey, every 
 one watching with painful interest the progress of the 
 game. Piles of doubloons and eagles, pistols, &c. are 
 displayed on the tops of the tables — now a card is thrown 
 out — down go the bets — another and another, until the 
 fourth is thrown out. The gambler taps — the belting 
 ceases, and the result is known. The banker raking off
 
 28 SKETCHES OF TRAVKLS. 
 
 the largest share. A little bell is sounded. "Here, Bob! 
 Gentlemen, what will you drink ? Smoke a cigar?" Plied 
 with stimulants, the game is renewed, and hour after hour 
 the play is continued. There stands a pretty looking wo- 
 man with dice in her hand. " Walk up gentlemen and 
 try your luck" — and there behind a table stands a man, 
 rolling little balls. Listen — " Come, gentlemen, here's the 
 spot to raise your funds — walk up." Look on the wall, 
 or rather muslin partitions — see ihose flash pictures — on 
 that high box sit several musicians, whose lively music 
 add enchantment to the scene, More rum, more excite- 
 ment — some few exultant, while he losers go off one by 
 one, looking most disconsolate, aud cursing their fate. — 
 Ah ! why yield ye to temptation — why did you not obey 
 the instruction of a good mother, or the wise counsel 
 of a pious father. Perhaps you now remember the part- 
 ing admonition of a fond wife or siirter. But we have little 
 time to moralize, — as we pass through the many elegant- 
 ly furnished saloons that surround the Plaza, we find the 
 same excitement, the same noise, bustle and confusion. 
 
 Clink ! clink ! clink ! " Hammer away men — hurry up 
 the building — time is money out here — the work must be 
 done this week." So throughout the city; evei-y body in a 
 hurrj' — they walk in a hurry, and talk and eat in a hurry. 
 
 Bang ! What is that 1 Here comes the steamer Ore- 
 gon. Let us go down to the wharf and see if among her
 
 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 29 
 
 hundreds of passengers we can recognize one familiar 
 face — no, not one — we are alone, as it were, among 
 thousands. 
 
 But now for our letters — some consolation in hearing 
 from friends at home. But hear ! What is that you say 1 
 The steamer brought no mail ! 
 
 Bah ! what a disappointment to the anxious expectant. 
 
 I ascended one of the highest eminences around San 
 Francisco, known as Clark's Point, and I could look far 
 out upon the deep blue sea. I could see here and there a 
 sail "beating in." In another direction I could see ma- 
 ny sloops and schooners sailing across the bay, loaded 
 with passengers bound for the mines. 
 
 There are two beautiful, almost circular islands in the 
 bay, one of which is supposed to contain immense depo- 
 sits of Guano, Below lay the city, and its fine harbor, 
 containing already a vast amount of shipping, and back of 
 it a range of hills and mountains. The day was closing, 
 and chilled by the cold night winds peculiar to the cli- 
 mate, I descended, and again mingled with the crowd. — 
 But my time for sight seeing was expended. I had to 
 prepare for another tri} , and leave this city replete with 
 the elements of future g.eatness and prosperity, with good 
 and bad men, thorough going men, who deserved success 
 for their enterprise, per.-everance and self-denial, and be 
 off for the mines. I bade farewell to the good old ship
 
 30 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 tliat carried me safely to port araid furious storms and 
 raging seas — tlie old ship that held firm during the se- 
 vere storms that beat hard against her — the staunch old 
 vessel that acquitted herself so handsomely, (as the sailors 
 express it,) and being among entire strangers — men from 
 diiferent parts of the States, of various characters and 
 dispositions — I could not but feel sad as I looked upon 
 her for the last time. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 OFF FOR THE MINES. 
 " Jump aboard, men ! Don't you see that black cloud 
 rising there ? Hurry up — we must cross the bay before 
 the storm overtakes us." We hurried aboard, hoisted the 
 anchor, and away our little schooner cut through the wa- 
 ter "like a thing of life." But the storm overtook us, 
 and the wind blew hard, tossing our little schooner up and 
 down the angry waves. She rocked to and fro, was pitch- 
 ed upon her starboard side, and she cracked and strained 
 as though she would break into a thousand pieces- But 
 we weathered the storm safely, and soon lost sight of San 
 Francisco. We were bound for Stockton, on our way to 
 the southern mines. Our party consisted of fourteen men, 
 each of whom, myself excepted, were accustomed to man- 
 ual labor, and they feared that I could not endure the
 
 SKETCIIKS OF TRAVKI-S, 31 
 
 exposure, and lacked the physical strength necessary for 
 a " miner ;" but it proved in the end that the " battle is 
 not always to the strong, nor the race to the swift " 
 
 About 8 A. M. we lay to; towards daylight a breeze 
 springing up, we up anchor and sailed onward. 
 
 We passed Benecia, a most lovely location for a town. 
 The numerous and abrupt hills back of the village, gave 
 a pleasing charm to the view, all of which, as far as the 
 eye could reach, were covered with wild oats and barley. 
 There were several United States men-of-war and mer- 
 chant ships riding at anchor, and it was thought this 
 would become a naval station. 
 
 As we sailed on we saw two shanties on the shore, 
 which I was told constituted the city of " New York on 
 the Pacific." 
 
 At length we entered the mouth of San Joaquin river, 
 a stream so narrow that I could toss from the vessel a 
 pebble on either shore, and so shallow that not only 
 our little craft, but others we passed, were occasionally 
 aground, and had to wait until the tide floated us off. 
 
 Another night on board, but no sleep for any of the pas- 
 sengers. The myriads of musquitoes that infest the Tule, 
 a plant growing luxuriantly in the marshes along the river, 
 seemed to have all assembled on board our vessel ; and as 
 they were exceedingly affectionate, I could hear the pas- 
 sengers continually battling with their musical friends,
 
 32 SKKTCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 and I longed for the light of another day. Morning came, 
 but the heat was so oppressive, that my condition was not 
 much improved, 
 
 I noticed large numbers of ducks, grouse, cranes, &c., 
 flying about, and many of the passengers wished they had 
 guns at hand, and I even, thought if one of the feathery 
 flock would alight, and let me place the muzzle of the gun 
 within a foot of it, I could pop it over too. 
 
 "We passed the " lone tree," appropriately so called, for 
 T could see no other tree within a long distance of it. — 
 The ground about here seemed fit for pasturage, and 
 doubtless by this time, through the indomitable energy of 
 the American settlers, yields abundant harvests. The na- 
 tives are too indolent and trifling to dig a foot of ground. 
 
 During the afternoon we espied Stockton, but the wind 
 had almost died away, so we made but slow progress, and 
 we tacked, pulled ropes, pitched canvass, and fussed about 
 as though we were on board some large clipper. Every 
 skipper or captain that I ever knew seemed proud of his 
 vessel, no matter what the size or proportions. 
 
 We finally reached our landing place, and lost no time 
 in getting out our baggage and deserting the little vessel. 
 The town consisted of a few adobe houses and tents ; in 
 each of which liquor was dispensed and card playing go- 
 ing on. I observed a few miserable specimens of the na- 
 tive Indians loitering about, and as Stockton was the
 
 SKETCHKS OF TRAVELS 33 
 
 starting point for all travelers to the mines, there were 
 many adventurers collected together, and each man would 
 anxiously inquire for the best location to visit, the distance, 
 route, &c. &c. There were no distinctions in society ; 
 dress did not indicate wealth or poverty. The most filthy 
 and ragged looking "ombre" might have the biggest pile. 
 
 Now commences the first lesson as a " California mi- 
 ner." Poles were cut for the tent to be pitched, then fire- 
 wood was brought, and then for our first meal, cooked by 
 ourselves — let me see, what had we? Oofi"ee as black as 
 charcoal, pork as salt and fat as could possibly be, bread 
 a little lighter than lead ; but it was palatable and relished 
 by all of us. The supper over, I stretched my blanket 
 on the dusty ground, sought sleep and found it. 
 
 Another day came round, and we prepared for our tramp 
 to the mines. We engaged a team to carry our baggage 
 to the auriferous districts, distant about seventy miles, for 
 which we agreed to pay the "moderate sum" of fifteen 
 cents per pound. 
 
 About noon we struck our tent and made ready to travel 
 towards the mines, on my favorite animal, shank's mare ! 
 
 Away we went. "Whew ! wasn't it hot. The road dus- 
 ty, scarcely any shade, and what trees we saw always 
 happened to be out of our path. 
 
 So long pent up on board the ship, my feet were almost 
 
 too tender for the journey, and when we halted for the night, 
 2*
 
 34 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 I was, like the others, glad enough to throw my blankets 
 on the cold ground, and seek rest and sleep, which was 
 delicious to me. 
 
 About 2 o'clock we awoke, partook of " a hasty cup of 
 tea," and marched forward, intending to rest during the 
 day. The very ground was cracked open, the weeds were 
 shriveled up, and the numerous toads and serpents we 
 passed seemed the color of the earth, for this was the 
 dry season, and dry enough it was. 
 
 On we traveled, panting, sweating and grumbling, and 
 almost worn out, till at last we reached a beautiful stream 
 called Stanislaus river, into which we plunged " sans cer- 
 emonie," and crossed to the opposite shore, when we 
 quickly divested ourselves of our dirty and wet clothing, 
 and plunged into the welcome river, fairly kissing with 
 joy the pure and cooling waters as they gently flowed by us. 
 
 We halted on its bank for the night, the dust at least 
 two feet deep. At early dawn we again gathered up our 
 blankets aiid traveled on. Occasionally we would stop 
 and gaze at the beautiful and picturesque scenery sur- 
 rounding us. 
 
 Towards noon we came within sight of our stopping 
 place. I could hear the rattle of- the many washing ma- 
 chines ; I could see the men digging, hauling and wash- 
 ing the dust containicg the precious metal, and no one 
 appeared idle. Dig, dig, pick, pick, shovel, shovel, was
 
 SKETCHKS OF TRAVELS. 3-5 
 
 the order of the day, and I wondered how I could stand 
 the hard, incessant labor necessarj' to achieve success. 
 
 I kept on and noticed the many tents stretched along 
 the banks of the Tuolumne river, and I sat down upon 
 a rock, shaded by a sycamore, to rest myself from my 
 tedious journey. Sleep seized me, and when I awoke, the 
 miners had quit work for the day. The noise had ceas- 
 ed, and 1 felt indeed " like one who treads alone some 
 banquet hall deserted." 
 
 I sought the tent, under which I expected to repose for 
 the night; but the arrangements were not completed, so 
 with others of the party, I stretched my blankets on the 
 ground, myself upon them, and slept soundly until morn- 
 ing, when we arranged our tent and sallied out in search 
 of some suitable spot to commence mining operations, and 
 the peculiarities and hardships of a miner's life I will de- 
 scribe in the next chapter. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 LIFE AT THE MINES— WINTER OP 1849. 
 Hawkins' Bar, afterwards dignified by the appellation 
 of Hawkinsville, was beautifully situated on the Tuolumne 
 river, a narrow stream which gently flawed along, its 
 course about as straight as a Virginia fence. Hawkins- 
 ville contained a population of about one thousand men j
 
 36 SKI'7rCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 not a single woman or child within fifty miles of the place. 
 The hardy miners " dwelt not in marble halls," but under 
 the fragile covering of 10 cent muslin. Preachers, doc- 
 tors, lawyers, mechanics and laboring-men cooked their 
 provisions, mended and washed their clothing ; and not 
 unfrequently a man who had been classically educated, and 
 perhaps had been professor of belles lettres in some col- 
 lege, might have been seen turning his " slap jacks" dex- 
 terously in the frying pan, or sitting on an old stump mend- 
 ing his breeches. All the citizens were on an equality ; 
 and not unlikely, the boisterous sailor was the most suc- 
 cessful miner. 
 
 After the day's work was over, some would engage in 
 reading the Scriptures, singing hymns, and talking of their 
 homes and future prospects ; whilst others, less consider- 
 ate, would gamble, get drunk, carouse and make night 
 hideous by their screams and incessant firing of guns 
 and pistols. 
 
 Oar ))arty were always up and preparing breakfast be- 
 fore the stars had disappeared, and would sit around the 
 camp-fire, smoking pipes, awaiting the dawn of day. And 
 what a life to lead ! what hardships, exposures and self- 
 denials men undergo for the sake of money. We were not 
 very successful in our mining operations, and when re- 
 ports reached us that blacksmiths were wanted at Stock- 
 ton at $16 per day, those of our party who were smiths,
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 37 
 
 evinced a disposition to accept the offer, and leave tlie 
 mines, which were not remunerative. The smoke of dis- 
 content soon burst into a flame ; a division of property 
 w^as demanded, and our " Mutual Beneficial Association," 
 which was to continue at least six months, was, like all 
 California parties, numbered among " the things that 
 were." I soon found that " might makes right," and I 
 was told to vacate the tent and its conveniencies at once. 
 Too glad to escape from men so uncongenial and selfish, 
 I made no complaint ; like the studious owl, I said no- 
 thing, but kept up a deal of thinking. 
 
 A neighbor offered me the use of his tent and board at 
 nine dollars per week, which I accepted, and soon had my 
 bed and et ceteras transferred to his establishment, the bill 
 of fare to consist of salt pork of questionable age, musty 
 crackers and tip top coffee, provided some body knew how 
 to make it. However, I relished the food and never en- 
 joyed better health. The climate is so pure that, expos- 
 ed as I was, to all kinds of weather, hard work, and no 
 proper shelter or conveniences, I could not in any other 
 part of America have enjoyed better health. 
 
 With only a knife, broken pick and pan, did I, day after 
 day, search for the glittering metal, secreted amid rocks, 
 crevices and dirt. The general custom was to dig down 
 until a stratum of earth was reached, which indicated the 
 presence of gold. The earth was then shoveled into the
 
 38 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 box on top the rocker, water was constantly poured upon 
 it, whilst the rocker was shaken to and fro ; at night that 
 left in the bottom of the cradle was carefully scooped up, 
 and washed iu a pan, and the profits of the day's labor 
 soon known. 
 
 Some of the miners conceived the idea that the bed of 
 the river contained the richest deposits of gold. A com- 
 pany was formed, a canal dug, a dam constructed, and the 
 water was to be turned from its natural channel. Now 
 were the men excited, and with three cheers the water 
 was turned into the canal, and every one anxiously waited 
 the time to examine the bed of the river, which had been 
 undisturbed, peradventure, for ages. The order to begin 
 work was announced the next morning, and tlie one hun- 
 dred men, comprising the " Tuolumne River Mining Com- 
 pany," began to dig up rocks and mud, and the rattle, 
 rattle, of the many cradles, resounded through the adjacent 
 forests, causing the untutored Indian to look with affright 
 at the busy scene before him. The result of the day's 
 labor yielded to the Company the most gratifying evidence 
 of success, and each man, as he threw himself upon his 
 blanket to rest from the arduous labors of the day, could 
 scarcely sleep, so excited was his mind, hoping that in a 
 few weeks he could return to his friends in the States 
 well rewarded for his enterprise, &c. 
 
 But •' This world is all a fleeting show, For man's illusion
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 39 
 
 given," for next day the rain poured down incessantly, 
 the river rose rapidly, and by night the artificial dam was 
 washed adrift, and the hard labor of weeks was destroy- 
 ed in a few hours. But men who bad become accustom- 
 ed to disappointment and mishaps were not the persons 
 to despair — no such words as " give up" to be found in 
 their vocabulary. When the storm ceased they recom- 
 menced the construction of the dam, and their ultimate 
 success emboldened others at the various mining districts 
 to, not only turn the course of rivers, but to dig down hills, 
 banks, and accomplish almost incredible feats of labor, 
 using only pick, shovel and hammer for their tools. So- 
 licited by an acquaintance, who was working a profitable 
 claim, to assist him in getting out '' dirt," prior to the 
 filling up the claim with water, (the season of rain and 
 storms bad now set in,) I consented, and early next morn- 
 ing was busy digging in a hole at least twenty feet deep. 
 
 From unmistakable indications, I inferred, this was not 
 the safest place, for as the rain poured down loosening the 
 earth, I feared the banks would cave in. I noticed also 
 a large stone projecting at the top of the bank, and ex- 
 pressed myself unwilling to work much longer : however, 
 I continued the day one, and was glad to rest my bruised 
 and aching limbs at night. In the morning I was at my 
 post again, but emphatically informed my friend, Mr. S — d, 
 of Georgia, that I could not in justice to myself and those
 
 40 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 I had left at home, risk my life under such threatening 
 circumstances. Mr. S — d changed my work, remarking 
 at the same time that he had left a wife and six children 
 in Georgia, that he valued his life, and the happiness and 
 peace of his family as much as I did or could; and that 
 I was totally unacquainted with such work ; that he had 
 more experience, and knew there was no danger. But 
 alas ! how often are men mistaken ! How little they 
 know what an hour may bring forth ! 
 
 My duty was now to carry stones and dirt in a bag, on 
 my shoulder to the rockers, about twenty yards distant, 
 and the first step I took, I slipped, and my foot pressed 
 clear through my shoe. On I kept, and when I was about 
 to tumble the load down, I hardly remember which fell 
 first, the bag or myself, and a more mud-bespattered indi- 
 vidual is rarely to be seen. Of course, my fall and ap- 
 pearance caused the crowd to shout with laughter. 
 
 The next load I succeeded in getting down more easily, 
 (because it was lighter,) but as I was about to return, 
 some one called out hastily, " Here, here, doctor, doctor, 
 come quick ; the bank has caved in, burying poor Sher- 
 wood — run !" We all started off and found, just as I 
 had predicted, the bank caved in, poor Sherwood covered 
 
 up entirely, and Dr. P , of New York buried to the 
 
 waist. We pulled the doctor out, who, although much 
 bruised, was not seriously hurt, and we then rapidly and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 41 
 
 cautiously sought for Slierwood. The crowd assembled 
 around were painfully excited ; not a word was spoken. 
 We all feared the worst, but still hoped. At last I espied 
 the hat of the unfortunate man ; and I saw the brains scat- 
 tered around, and discovered that the very stone he was 
 warned to look out for, had killed hira ! We raised the 
 cold and inanimate body, and slowly and sadly carried it 
 to the tent, which he had left but a short time previous in 
 good health, good humor and happy anticipations. 
 
 The grave was dug on a hill near by, shaded by a wide- 
 spreading oak, and those of us who knew him best and 
 worked with him, followed his lifeless remains to the grave 
 as mourners. The beautiful and impressiv^e burial service 
 of the Episcopal church was read, and we departed for our 
 homes, filled with sadness and melancholy at the untimely 
 fate of one who was suddenly hurled into eternity, far from 
 his family, his home and his kindred. Requiescat in pace. 
 
 My landlord informed me that, in consequence of the 
 high price and scarcity of provisions, and the impossibility 
 of receiving supplies, on account of the wretched condition 
 of the roads, " he could not board me any longer." This 
 was bad news for me, and the or\]y hoid in the place could 
 offer me no relief, for their boarders iook their meals in the 
 open air, and slept wherever they could. I concluded to 
 hitch up my reliable shanks' mare and start for San Fran- 
 cisco. Meeting an acquaintance who was also anxious
 
 42 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 to leave, we soon disposed of every article we did not ab- 
 solutely require, and prepared to start in a couple of days. 
 I could leave this place without any regrets, for I left no 
 one to mourn after, and I knew of no particular spot to 
 cause me to regret parting from. Not so in other portions 
 of California, of which I will speak hereafter. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 LEAVING THE MINES. 
 
 On Tuesday, "N'ovember 20th, 1S49, two acquaintances 
 and myself, strapped our bedding and clothing on our 
 backs, and bade farewell to Hawkinsville. We slowly 
 ascended the rough hill, which sheltered from the pierc- 
 ing winds the little village of tents, and pushed forward 
 for Stockton in good humor with ourselves and the " rest 
 of mankind." 
 
 The roads were in a miserable condition, and occasion- 
 ally we halted to scrape off the putty like mud which 
 impeded our progress. 
 
 I had purchased before starting, two pounds of crackers, 
 at seventy-five cents per pound, and when we came across 
 a beautiful rivulet, we sat down to feast upon our meagre 
 fare, but would have enjoyed something more substantial. 
 On we pressed, scaling mountains, crossing valleys and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 43 
 
 creeks, then ascending high hills, almost exhausted; until 
 at last we came in sight of the "' Mountain House," at 
 ■which place we proposed to spend the night. The "Moun- 
 tain House" was simply a large tent; and the bull dog- 
 visaged landlord, notified the many travelers who had 
 met there, that supper would be ready soon, and all who 
 partook and paid for it, were entitled to spread their blan- 
 kets under the tent — of course. We all agreed, and about 
 8 o'clock, supper was announced, which consisted of half 
 baked bread, salt beef, salt fish, and something called cof- 
 fee — for which each paid two dollars. We spread our 
 blankets on the ground, and expected to have a comfort- 
 able night's rest ; but the rain descended fast and heavy, 
 and we had to shift about to protect ourselves from the 
 storm. 
 
 Early in the morning, most of us bound downward, 
 agreed to proceed, although it was raining hard. We 
 had a miserable time of it, the roads were muddy and 
 almost impassable. Our packs saturated with water, 
 were twice as heavy as when we started. Sometimes we 
 would overtake others in the road ; then again get sepa- 
 rated, and I felt indifferent as to which road I took, or 
 whither it would lead me. Finally we reached " Knight's 
 Ferry," I tumbled into a boat, was ferried across, and 
 made rapid tracks for a large tent a short distance ahead, 
 threw my bundle down and rested. Here were collected
 
 44 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS, 
 
 together a large number of men, some bound to the mines, 
 and others on their way to Stockton. 
 
 Among the party was a handsome youth, son of a well 
 known auctioneer of Baltimore ; a fortnight afterwards 
 I met him in San Francisco, and learned ia conversation, 
 that he had contracted a cold on tiiis trip. Poor fellow ! 
 One week later he was numbered with those who have gone 
 to " that bourne from whence no traveler returns." 
 
 The proprietor of " Knight Ferry House" proved to be 
 a kind-hearted man, and his polite attention to my wants 
 will never be forgotten by me. For, oh, how delightful 
 to a wayworn traveler to meet with even one person that 
 exhibits a little of the milk of human kindness. 
 
 I breakfasted on fresh deer steaks, fresh mountain 
 trout, hot rolls and excellent coffee, for which I paid 
 $1 50. I ol)served a number of Indians loitering about, 
 and was informed, that from them mine host procured 
 his deer and trout 
 
 The night was very inclement, and my considerate land- 
 lord, observing my wearied appearance, kindly furnished 
 me a piece of oil cloth on which to spread my blankets. 
 There were about fifty men lying under the teat, and as 
 each one was tired out, it was not long before sleep quiet- 
 ed the motley crowd ; about midnight I awoke and dis- 
 covered somebody using my feet for a pillow ; I politely 
 requested whoever it was, to look out for some other rest-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 45 
 
 ing place, as I was too much fatigued to allow any one 
 to rest on me. No answer being returned, I had no al- 
 ternative but to kick off the intruder, no matter what the 
 consequence ; so jerking my feet from under the inter- 
 loper, I brought him a pretty severe blow on the head, 
 when up sprang a large dog, howling and leaping from 
 one person to another, producing a violent commotion in 
 the camp. Every one cried out, " Who disturbed that 
 dog?" "Who made that fuss?" Poor brute, he con- 
 tinued howling and jumping around, getting more fright- 
 ened every moment — boots and whatever could be reach- 
 ed, were thrown at him, until at last he sprang 
 through the canvas to the great relief of the lodgers. 
 Of course, during the excitement, I was as still as a mouse, 
 and like Daniel O'Connell's attorney at a private party, 
 who, when asked to make a speech, arose and said — "Gen- 
 tlemen, mum's the word !" After this little episode, which 
 was not set down in the programme we all slept com- 
 fortably until morning, which, fortunately for us, was 
 bright and clear, and after partaking of another excellent 
 meal, we bade our host farewell. Three of us left the ferry 
 together, entire strangers to each other : those with whom 
 I left the mines, agreed to rest awhile and follow along 
 at their leisure. The roads were now in a most deplora- 
 ble condition, it seemed as though every time I put my 
 foot down, it sank out of sight ; of course, we made but
 
 46 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 slow progress. Ravines that we had passed on our way 
 to the mines, then dry and solid, were now swift running 
 streanns, which had to be waded waist deep. Towards 
 night, I felt my strength well nigh exhausted. I was told 
 we would find a stopping place a couple of miles further 
 on, but I feared I could not reach it ; just then we came 
 to a stream, rushing madly along, and some wondered how 
 we could ford it; but I did not pause to consider about 
 it a moment, but pressed on ; the rest followed, and we 
 succeeded in gaining the opposite shore. I felt refreshed 
 for a time ; my clothes, boots, &c., were completely satu- 
 rated with water, bat I soon began to weary, until at last 
 I fell to the ground, completely exhausted. I do not 
 know how long I should have lain there, had not some one 
 staggered up to me, almost overcome himself, and shouted 
 out, " Doctor, look up, don't you see that light ahead ; 
 get up, and we can reach it." I arose, and both of us 
 stumbled on. We thought it must be some ignis fatuus, 
 for now we could see it, again it disappeared, until at last 
 we heard shouts of laughter. We took courage and soon 
 reached •' Red's Tent." Here was a lively party ; the 
 whole of whom had been stimulating, and with their dan- 
 cing, shouting and hurraing, aroused even the well nigh ex- 
 hausted travelers. I found " Red," as he was called, a 
 clever hearted fellow, and at once asked him the privi- 
 lege of making my bed under his tent ; but he informed
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 47 
 
 me that those who preceded me, had 'pre-emjption right. 
 I warmed myself and dried my wet clothes before a blaz- 
 ing fire in the open air, and partook of an excellent sup- 
 per; charge two dollars, and with two or three others 
 threw my blanket on the damp ground, and althongh 
 the wind was high, and the night cold, I slept com- 
 fortably, and arose in the morning " as fresh as a lark." 
 
 I started off for Stockton in company with a former 
 wholesale dry goods merchant of New York, and a son of 
 a Georgia planter, and a pretty looking trio we were. Our 
 clothes patched and well worn, our beds et cetera on our 
 backs, we must have presented a ludicrous sight. We in- 
 tended to breakfast further on the road, and away we tramp- 
 ed. Occasionally we crossed rapid streams on a log, some 
 one had thrown over, and if we had made a misstep, there is 
 no telling where we would have brought up. However, we 
 got along safely, and reached the blue tent, known as the 
 " Texas House." Here we ordered breakfast. The host 
 was a clever old man, who, upon seeing me, exclaimed, 
 " My dear sir, you are looking much jaded, had you not 
 better rest here a day V But I told him I was bound for 
 San Francisco, and wished my journey over as soon as 
 possible. He asked us to wait, until he could cook our 
 meal, and regretted that his larder contained so little just 
 then. The blue tent was of so small capacity, that we
 
 48 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 preferred lying down on the grass outside, and were glad 
 of the opportunity to rest. 
 
 Our meal consisted of coffee, bread and fried beans ; 
 and when we came from the table, not a drop of coffee, 
 not a slice of bread, not a bean was left. I thought 
 " mine host" certainly told the truth, when he said his 
 larder was nearly empty. We bade the old gentleman 
 good-bye, and plodded on ; in about an hour or two, we 
 were all tumbling in the road, suffering intense pain, oc- 
 casioned, doubtless, by the half baked beans. We met a 
 man, of whom we inquired the distance to the next stop- 
 ping place. He assured us that we had but little further 
 to travel, before we would find ' Dancing Bill's Tavern." 
 We hurried on, still suffering from sickness, and at last 
 espied an old log cabin, which we supposed was the place 
 we were in search of. As soon as we entered the cabin, 
 we called for brandy, and drank it down ; but although 
 it proved to be common Jamaica rum, we were satisfied, 
 for it relieved us of our sickness. Not liking appear- 
 ances about this place, we pushed on, hoping to make 
 Stockton before night ; but about two miles from it, one 
 of the party gave out, and we agreed to remain with him. 
 We gathered fire-wood, kindled a fire, and after resting 
 awhile, began to feel a disposition for supper; we had no 
 alternative but to roast the acorns we found on the ground,
 
 SKETCHKS OF TRAVELS. 49 
 
 and drink for our tea, water that had, fortunately for us, 
 lodged in a mud hole ! We spread our blankets on the 
 ground, and when morning came, we thought it had been 
 snowing during the night, so completely was the ground 
 covered with hoar-frost. We bundled up our bedding and 
 pushed on for Stockton, which place we reached about 9 
 o'clock. The town had much improved during the short 
 time we had been absent ; but as we were anxious to have 
 this trip over, we only stopped for breakfast, and hurried 
 down to the wharf, engaged passage on an old schooner 
 for San Francisco, and after a tedious and disagreeable 
 passage, reached the metropolis of California on the even- 
 ing of November 28th, 1849. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 When I stepped ashore from the old schooner which 
 brought me from Stockton, I was surprised to observe the 
 vast improvements that had been made during my brief 
 absence. The " blue tent on the corner," which I de- 
 scribed in a former letter, was displaced by a commodious 
 two-story edifice ; alongside was the "Parker Saloon" 
 of still more elegant style and finish, and so throughout 
 the entire square, changes had been made. 
 3
 
 50 SKKTCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 The post-ofRce was located on a hill, overlooking the 
 greater portion of the town and bay; and here were hun- 
 dreds going and returning, anxiously inquiring for letters 
 from home ; and I, too, stepped up to the window, and 
 inquired of the clerk if there was a letter for me. He look- 
 ed, but turned coldly around and said, no ! Not a soli- 
 tary acquaintance had 1, among the thousands mov- 
 ing about the city ; and if any of my readers have 
 been in foreign lands without a friend to converse with, 
 they can imagine my feelings, when wandering amid 
 a vast crowd, and not recognizing a single acquaintance. 
 My clothes were stored on board a vessel lying in the 
 stream ; those I had on were not only well worn, but, like 
 Joseph's coat, of varied colors. But as I had not yet 
 secured a permanent lodging-house, and was not engaged 
 in any business, I did not care how I looked, or what 
 kind of a figure I presented, for in truth, I was not sin- 
 gular in this respect. 
 
 The streets were not yet planked or paved, and as the rain 
 poured down nearly all day, they were almost impassable ; 
 but storekeepers, having an eye to business, prudently 
 placed boxes in front of their property, which served as 
 acceptable sidewalks for the numerous pedestrians. The 
 gambling saloons were always crowded ; and any one 
 could go in and view the beautiful paintings, listen to in- 
 spiring music — gamble or not gamble — drink or not drink,
 
 SKETCHES OF TKAVELS. 51 
 
 just as he pleased. But ob ! could those gilded walls 
 speak, what tales of sorrow, misery and wretchedness 
 they could unfold. 
 
 The general state of society was loose; there were no 
 relined women lo throw a moral influence around the het- 
 erogeneous mass of human beings that were congregated 
 from every part of the world. Many of the citizens had 
 not yet fixed upon any permanent location or employ- 
 ment, but stern necessity compelled every one to be on 
 the look out for something to do. I myself began to 
 weary at the strange and busy scenes being enacted every 
 day, and wished the season of rain and storms would end, 
 so that I could again travel to the mines, and keep my- 
 self employed, whether I should find the " philosopher's 
 stone" or not. 
 
 The old City Hotel, whose long, old-fashioned balcony 
 sheltered many a citizen during the violent rain storms, 
 was also a favorite place of resort. Here I would occa- 
 sionally partake of a cup of coffee, and here I fortunately 
 met an acquaintance, with whom I had traveled to Cali- 
 fornia. From him I learned that one of my best friends 
 was comfortably located on California street, and I lost 
 no time in searching him out. We had a jovial meeting; 
 we talked over our trials and hardships, and as my friend 
 was conducting an extensive boarding-house, I at once en- 
 gaged board, and soon began to feel more comfortablejthan
 
 52 SKETCHES OF TllAVELS. 
 
 I had done for a long while. My first business was to hire 
 a boat and bring ashore my trunk, in which I had my 
 principal wardrobe. There being no porters at that 
 time, I was compelled, in accordance with the fashion of 
 the day, to shoulder my trunk and carry it about a mile 
 to my boarding-house, not without, however, amusing the 
 crowd along the way with several tumbles in the mud, as 
 the burden was almost too much for my physical strength. 
 
 After awhile I, too, began to speculate, and my success 
 enabled me to live much more comfortably than I had an- 
 ticipated. I was known as a doctor, collector, agent and 
 messenger ; made mattresses out of common muslin and 
 stuffed them with shavings, peddled cigars, patent medi- 
 cines and notions ; and what was thought an accomplish- 
 ment at home, now became the source of my greatest pe- 
 cuniary profit — I mean performing on the flute. 
 
 The officials of the city government still adhered to 
 the old Mexican titles ; for instance, the City Council was 
 known as the Ayuntamiento, the Mayor as the Alcalde, 
 and Superintendent of Police as Prefect. But the au- 
 thorities were at constant warfare with each other, and 
 woe to the man who had dealin^;s with judge, lawyer or 
 juror. 
 
 On Monday, December 24th, tlie cry of fire was sound- 
 ed, The citizens were, of course alarmed. The houses 
 were constructed chiefly of boards and lined with muslin.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 53 
 
 There were no engines at that time, and no wonder every 
 one ran, dreading the result, for the black smoke was 
 rising up, and we saw that the beautiful " Parker Saloon" 
 was on fire. The vast '[uantity of liquor in the building 
 added to the flames. The El Dorado took fire, and for a 
 while the black clouds cf sm'oke, issuing from the build- 
 ing, hid from view the entire block ; but soon the lurid 
 flames burst forth, threatening a vast destruction of pro- 
 perty, until determined men blew up the adjoining house, 
 and happily prevented ihe fire extending further, and it 
 had not been wholly extinguished before parties were con- 
 tracting for the erection of other houses. 
 
 Tuesday, Jan. 1st, IS 50. Now the rain began to pour 
 down, and almost every day until spring, we had rain, 
 rain, rain. Some of the streets were filled to the depth of 
 two feet with liquid mud, many a tumble had the pe- 
 destrians into the filthy slush, and it was now my turn to 
 laugh. 
 
 I was standing at Friend K — 's ofiice door, in Mont- 
 gomery street, one morning, when I heard a sound as of 
 many hammers and the rattling of chains coming near me. 
 I turned, and there came along the oddest procession I 
 had ever beheld. It> was a chain gang ! — about thirty 
 men, white and black, two by two, each chained to the 
 other, and each carrying a heavy iron ball on his arm. — 
 Away they went, clank, clink, clank. I followed after
 
 54 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 them, and found that the criminals marched to Clark's 
 Point, where they were made to dig down the rugged hills, 
 and I could not but think the system of compelling crim- 
 inals to work for their hoard and lodging most excellent 
 and productive of much good, as the public exposure 
 would of itself deter others from committing crime. 
 
 Things were enormously high; long boots, so indispen- 
 sable for walking or rather wading the streets, could not 
 be procured for fifty dollars ; stoves were scarce, and 
 brought from one to three hundred dollars each ; and 
 board and lodging was from fifteen to thirty-five dollars 
 per week. This was the period in the history of San Fran- 
 cisco which developed whatever energies a man had. Men 
 of the finest intellectual acquirements were glad to accept 
 of any employment that offered. I have known gentle- 
 men, who had been accustomed not only to the comforts, 
 but to the luxuries of life at home, occupied in carrying 
 lumber from ship to shore, and doing various drudgery, with 
 not half so much grumbling as those who had been used 
 to manual labor. And why ? Because the intellect pre- 
 dominated, — Men of correct education could sustain them- 
 selves with more ease and comfort, through all their de- 
 privations, through all their hardsh-ips and misfortunes, 
 than men of small mental calibre. Politeness accomplish- 
 ed a vast deal. Host persons would prefer dealing with 
 men of polished manners.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 55 
 
 I formed agreeable associations with numerous accom- 
 plished gentlemen, but my peculiar life in California often 
 threw me among others, of manners so uncouth and boor- 
 ish, that "their room was far more agreeable than th«ir 
 company " 
 
 Whenever a steamer arrived from the Atlantic states, 
 crowds would flock around the post office, and it was so 
 difficult to obtain access to the clerk, that it was finally 
 agreed upon, that the people should fall in line, and take 
 their turn. I have waited in this way two hours before I 
 could succeed in getting to the window. 
 
 Another peculiarity of San Francisco life, (I sm sorry 
 to relate it,) was the total disregard of the Sabbath. — 
 Whilst I was listening to a reverend gentleman holding 
 forth on the Plaza, I could hear the sound of the saw and 
 hammer, and the jingle of the money and glasses in the 
 adjacent saloons. 
 
 A dangerous population was now coming in. Many of 
 the escaped convicts from Sidney and from our own land, 
 the different fighting and sporting men, were arriving But 
 as yet there were no outbreaks. Good citizens began to feel 
 uncomfortable. Men armed themselves, and watched close- 
 ly their property. Society was indeed of a mixed order. 
 
 The central wharf was a great point of attraction. — 
 Here the principal steamers and sailing vessels let go 
 their anchors ; and although the construction of the wharf
 
 56 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 cost an immense sura of money, still the wharf charges 
 were so high that the company were getting a handsome 
 return for their outlay. You could not pass through the 
 gate with even a small bundle without paying twenty-five 
 cents for the privilege. Along the road to " Happy Val- 
 ley" — happy only in name — were high hills of sand. A 
 temporary railway was built, upon which rough cars were 
 placed — these hills were leveled, the sand conveyed to the 
 shore — and thus the bay to a considerable extent, filled up. 
 
 The changes that were going on, the improvements con- 
 templated and in progress, were like some Oriental tale of 
 enchantment. But the American settlers were so per- 
 severing, enterprising and thorough-going, that no wonder 
 the indolent and inefficient native stood back, looking with 
 unutterable surprise at the scenes enacted before him. 
 
 I walked out to the " Mission Dolores" with a friend, 
 distant three miles from the city, then a miserable dull 
 and filthy place, but at this time a favorite resort. The 
 houses were constructed of mud, which soon dries hard in 
 the sun — no windows, no gl ass, merely a hole in the wall ; no 
 floors, and apparently as much a shelter for dogs, cats and 
 goats, as for the thriftless native. I noticed an old church, 
 built of stone something like two centuries ago, which 
 was still used by the Roman Catholic population as a house 
 of worship. " Fandangoes" were held principally on 
 Sabbath evenings, and if there were any pious and de-
 
 SKRTCHKS OF TRAVELS. 57 
 
 vout people among them, I certainly did not meet with 
 them. 
 
 CHAPTE H X. 
 
 SPRING OF 1850— MEN, MANNERS AND THINGS ABOUT SAN 
 FRANCISCO— OFF FOR THE NORTHERN MINES— INCIDENTS 
 OF THE JOURNEY. 
 
 The weather during the winter season in San Fran- 
 cisco was never intensely cold. The frequent rains oc- 
 casioned a dampness and chilliness which was of course 
 unpleasant, but when the sun came forth and dispelled the 
 murky clouds, the temperature was invariably delightful 
 even in mid winter; — dia-iug the summer months, no mat- 
 ter bow hot and uncomibrtable the days may have been, 
 the evenings and nights were always pleasant — attribu- 
 table to the cool and ref eshing sea breezes. 
 
 My friend W , of New York, was an excellent re- 
 presentative of the sh-'ewd, go-ahead, enterprising and 
 speculating Yankee. Landing in California with very 
 little of the " ready ca;-h," not knowing (nor caring to 
 know) any person — he commenced the sale of pies and 
 cakes — then introduced .ofifeeand substantials ; from this, 
 although making money fast, he transferred himself to 
 the " North River House," where he not only conducted 
 the hotel successfully, but also in the basement, a " uni- 
 3*
 
 58 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 versal Yankee notion store," and kept several hands em- 
 ployed in painting houses and signs, besides having sev- 
 eral other " irons in the fire." Many of the Flavins' pas- 
 sengers, residing in San Francisco, generally met here, 
 and my leisure time was very pleasantly occupied. Tliere 
 was one passenger we rarely saw or heard of, who had left 
 at home a wife and several children ; a man who had, un- 
 doubtedly, been well educated, of fine conversational 
 powers, and who delighted in speaking of his wife and little 
 ones. But, alas ! the uncontrollable thirst for liquor soon 
 removed him from this transitory life. He had pitched 
 his tent in one of the vilest localities of the town, and 
 passed his brief life among men whose very breath was 
 so surcharged with liquor, that I should have hesitated 
 to place a candle near them. 
 
 I was solicited to administer upon his estate, but de- 
 clined in favor of an older and more experienced friend ; 
 I consented however, to take an inventory of his eflfects, 
 and found it an exceedingly distressing office — distressing 
 to look upon the cold and inanimate corpse, and think of 
 the family at home, of the little children now bereaved of 
 a father ; it was .sad to gaze upon the portraits of the 
 different members of his family ; sad to think, he died in 
 a strange land, without the consoling companionship 
 of those he so often talked about ; and sadder yet, that 
 he, who was possessed of fine business capacities and ma-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 59 
 
 ny excellent qualities, whose opportunities for success in 
 life and for contributing to the happiness of others, were so 
 numerous, should thus pass away — his only enemy — him- 
 self. A few of us, who had traveled with him to Cali- 
 fornia, made arrangements for the proper disposition of 
 the body, and on a Sunday afternoon, the sky above clear 
 and beautiful — the air mild and balmy — everything in 
 nature so lovely, as to make one feel glad that a kind 
 Providence had permitted us to continue in health and 
 strength, and thus far to resist temptation, we accompa- 
 nied his mortal remains to the then only Protestant church, 
 (Episcopal) of which the deceased had been a member, 
 and after the reading of the usual burial services, we 
 carried the body to a wagon, and sadly followed to the 
 
 burial ground, the last remains of poor . 
 
 Another of my fellow passengers was one of those er- 
 ratic geniuses who lacked stability and good judgment. 
 On board the ship he manufactured out of an old gun 
 barrel and some old lumber, first rate pistols ; and from a 
 common cocoa nut, he produced a beautifully carved orna- 
 ment, for which our captain offered him ten dollars, but he 
 refused. That night a violent storm arose, and dashed 
 into fragments his beautiful workmanship. This clever 
 genius, soon after he landed in San Francisco, found em- 
 ployment as a house and sign painter at eight dollars a 
 day and his board ; at night he could earn twice as much
 
 60 sketchp:s of travels. 
 
 in manufacturinj^ rings, breastpins and " specimens." In 
 a short time he had accunmlated about S 1,500, and con- 
 cluded he would return home. Intimate as I was with 
 him, knowing thoroughly his circumstances, his prospects 
 and opportunities for accumulating a competency, I en- 
 treated, I besought him to remain at least a year longer, 
 but it was of no avail. Off he went, and when, I last 
 heard of him, he was at home sure enough — but was not 
 the possessor of five dollars ! 
 
 Another passenger, of fine scholastic attainments, was 
 bar-keeper in a gambling saloon, Another was lamp- 
 lighter and watchman in the same house. Another of 
 prepossessing appearance and manners, found employ- 
 ment in a restaurant as a waiter; and another became a 
 prominent actor on the stage. 
 
 San Francisco was looming up — elegant stores were 
 established — virtuous women were occasionally met with 
 in the streets, but more frequently women of abandoned 
 principles — good men and bad men were fast coming in — 
 houses were in demand, and the city was rapidly extend- 
 ing. Steamboats plied the placid waters, and no wonder 
 the Indian sighed for the days that were past, for then 
 these " smoke ships" were not there to frighten off the fish. 
 
 The Chinese, every man of whom answered to the name 
 of John, began to arrive in considerable numbers. They 
 appeared to be a harmless, inanimate set of beings, and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 61 
 
 when you saw one of them, j^ou saw tlie whole race — so 
 remarkably similar are their prominent features. 
 
 A large number of French people were flocking in also ; 
 and in passing along the Plaza one morning, I observed 
 Monsieur Tonson blacking the boots of some of the sport- 
 ing fraternity. And I doubt not Mr, Parlezvous French- 
 man drove a flourishing business, for he had no rent nor 
 taxes to pay, but with only a stool, his brush and black- 
 ing, he would stand on the pavement, and inquire if any 
 " von gentlemen ^t^ould have ze boots black ?" 
 
 In truth, representatives of almost every nation, bring- 
 ing with them all their national prejudices and peculi- 
 arities, were fast adding to the population of the state. 
 
 Even at this early period of the history of San Fran- 
 cisco, not only the comforts, but many of the luxuries of 
 life could be obtained. The high prices demanded for 
 every description of goods, incited energetic men to push 
 ahead with untiring exertions to produce something likely 
 to be called for. The streets were gradually being plank- 
 ed ; some of the houses were quite pretty, and men seem- 
 ed to feel more cheerful now that the rainy season had 
 passed by, and the prospects for the future'were bright. 
 
 My friend W was taken suddenly ill ; his partner 
 
 had gone to the mines on business, and the whole duty of 
 managing his complicated affairs devolved upon me. My 
 friend was getting worse, and imagined that no one could
 
 62 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 nurse bim as well as I could ; and as troubles never come 
 singly, in walked a tenant and peremptorily demanded a 
 reduction of his rent; and then the clerk demanded his pay, 
 as he wished to leave for the mines; and to cap the climax, 
 a note of -"^SOO, due in a couple of days, was handed me. 
 I could not annoy the sick man with business matters, so 
 I had to act upon my own judgment, and that promptly. 
 With the tenant I conpromised, after considerable wrang- 
 ling ; but had to pay the importunate clerk out of my own 
 funds, and employed another for his board and a percentage 
 on sales ; and settled, very much to my surprise satisfac- 
 torily with the gentleman who held the note ; and then 
 breathed freer myself. 
 
 Our steward had been a law student in New York city, 
 and performed his duties satisfactorily; and the cook was 
 decidedly the handsomest man in the house. Our charges 
 were one dollar for a meal, and one dollar for the privi- 
 lege of sleeping on the " softest plank." By unremitting 
 attention to business, and unwearied watching of my sick 
 friend, he recovered sufficiently, in the course of several 
 weeks, to leave his room — to walk out and enjoy the pure 
 and invigorating air, and the delightful scenery around 
 the city. 
 
 On Wednesday, March 27th, 1850, having completed 
 all my arrangements, I bade a farewell to my friends, and 
 stepping aboard the schooner Susan Farnham, was
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 63 
 
 once more on my way to the mines. Not to the southern, 
 but to the northern portion of California, without any 
 business associates, determined to work alone, risk alone, 
 and live alone. The morning was delightful, the air de- 
 licious, and everything promised a comfortable voyage. 
 The captain I found an unusually mild and amiable man 
 for his office. The passengers were all gold hunters, and 
 take them all in all, about as kindly disposed a set of fellows 
 as I could have desired. After we passed Benecia, the 
 Sacramento river, on which we were sailing, continued 
 the same width its entire length. It is a beautiful stream, 
 navigable for steamers and large sized vessels ; along the 
 shore on either side the banks were covered with innumer- 
 able clusters of varied colored flowers — presenting a most 
 charming view ; looking as though some gorgeous tapes- 
 try was spread over the undulating hills. What a place for 
 the enthusiast in botany ! — what brilliant specimens of 
 as yet, undescribed flowers he could secure ! Our schoon- 
 er was not fitted up with berths for passengers, so we had 
 to lie down on the decks ; and when a shower came up, we 
 were sadly put to it, as we were unable to escape the rain, 
 or to secure a shelter. 
 
 On Monday evening, April 1st, we reached Sacramento 
 city, and our accommodating captain very obligingly held 
 over for a few hours, to allow passengers to go ashore and 
 take a twilight view of the city. Most of us hurried to a
 
 64 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 large commodious-looking hotel, convenient to the land- 
 ing, for we had not partaken of a regular meal for nearly 
 a week. After a hearty supper, we strolled around the 
 city, and, so far as we could judge, the ground around was 
 perfectly level. 
 
 The wildest excitement was prevailing. An election 
 for municipal officers was about to be held, and proces- 
 sions of the friends of the opposing candidates were pa- 
 rading the streets. I could almost fancy myself in New 
 York. We soon, tired of the excitement, sought the 
 vessel, and were again sailing on our voyage to the gold 
 regions. 
 
 On Friday afternoon we anchored awhile at a place 
 called Vernon, where we bought bread for forty cents a 
 loaf Opposite to this speculating village, on the other 
 shore, was the city of Fremont. 
 
 Next morning, about 9 o'clock, Nicholaus hove in sight, 
 at which place a portion of the passengers, including my- 
 self, landed, and bade adieu to the friendly captain and 
 crew of the Susan Farnhara, who continued on their way, 
 bound far up the Feather river. 
 
 I had a letter to a citizen of Nicholaus, and lost no 
 time in conveying my baggage to one of his houses, which 
 at that time was unoccupied, and here we rested several 
 days.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ON THE MARCH— NEVADA MINES- LIFE IN THE MOUN- 
 TAINS— 1850. 
 
 The town of Nicholaus was pleasantly located on the 
 Feather river, and even at that early period speculators 
 were busy at work buying and selling " town lots." It 
 derived its name from an old man named Nichols, to 
 whom Capt. Sutter presented the ground. Accustomed 
 to living among the Indians, he preferred their free and 
 easy life to a residence within the limits of a town, even 
 though that town bore his name. The old man could 
 neither read nor write, and I subsequently understood that 
 his " friends" were fast disposing of his town lots in a way 
 that he would be compelled to cry out, " Save me from 
 my friends." 
 
 On Monday, April 8th, I succeeded in procuring a con- 
 veyance to the Nevada Mines for my tent, rocker, mining 
 tools, clothes and bedding, which weighed 111 lbs, and 
 for which I was charged 25 cents per pound — the distance 
 about fifty miles. Being the close of the rainy season, 
 the numerous creeks usually small and shallow, were now 
 deep and rapid rivers, often impeding our progress ; and 
 we had not proceeded far out of Nicholaus before we were 
 compelled to unpack our goods, and place them in a boat,
 
 66 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 and row across one of them. I felt little troubled at 
 these delays, and in truth, began to like this wild, roving 
 and exciting life, especially as I enjoyed excellent health. 
 As I was "all alone" in my business operations, I had 
 none of those unpleasant annoyances to which I was con- 
 stantly subjected on my trip to the southern mines. — 
 Our party consisted of about a dozen young men, each one 
 of whom hoped that this expedition to the mines would 
 not only be successful, but that the time for returning 
 home would soon arrive. 
 
 We came to a small stream called Bear] river, across 
 which a rude bridge had been thrown, and for the privi- 
 lege of crossing each man was charged 25 cents. "We 
 halted for the night a little beyond this, and as the air was 
 fresh and cool, it required considerable management on my 
 part to keep myself comfortable; I slept under the wagon, 
 and used a block of wood for my pillow. Morning usher- 
 ed in a lovely day — the clouds had disappeared, and we 
 went on our way rejoicing ; and why not ? — a beautiful 
 day, beautiful scenery and beautiful flowers along our 
 path. About noon we espied a house, and were agreeably 
 surprised to find among its inmates several females, who in- 
 formed us that their intention was to conduct a " traveler's 
 rest," and cheerfully prepared a substantial dinner for 
 several of our party, each one of whom did full justice to 
 the excellent repast spread before them. We passed on.
 
 SKETCHKS OF TRAVELS. 67 
 
 met several Indians returning from a hunt, all of them in a 
 state of nudity, and their first demand was "bacca, bacca." 
 We gave them as much of the " weed" as we could spare, 
 and away they scampered "over the bills and far away." 
 
 About noon on Wednesday 10th, 1850, we reached 
 Rough and Ready — a more appropriately named place 
 could not be found ; here we rested awhile and dined — 
 Next day reached Grass Valley, then containing only a 
 couple of log huts and a few tents scattered here and 
 there. [Of this valley I shall speak more particularly in 
 future, for here I enjoyed more real happiness than had 
 ever fallen to my lot in my previous life. J There being 
 nothing particularly interesting to me about here, I leis- 
 urely proceeded until I reached the celebrated " Nevada 
 Dry Diggings." Here I pitched my tent and remained a 
 considerable time" and lived very pleasantly, although I 
 had many hardships to endure, and was deprived of many 
 of the comforts of life. 
 
 An old gentleman, I met here, with whom I had trav- 
 eled to California, who was anxiously awaiting the arrival 
 of his party, that were to mine and live with him. As he 
 had no tent or mining tools, I invited him to stay with 
 me until his party arrived. I found my friend very use- 
 ful ; I know I could not so easily have erected my tent, 
 or put my mining tools in such complete order, had I not 
 met my obliging acquaintance.
 
 68 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 My first purchase was 19 lbs. of^ salt pork for $7 60, and 
 5lbs. flour for $1 75. As wood cost nothing but the troul)le 
 of cutting and bringing it to the tent, and as water, pure 
 and wholesome, could be had within a stone's throw of 
 my new home, I soon built a fire, and in a short time my 
 friend and myself were seated on a log, feasting as hap- 
 pily as princes on " salt pork and slap jacks." That night 
 we slept soundly. The next day we "prospected," and 
 entertained an acquaintance at dinner. 
 
 On Saturday I devoted most of the day to the arrange- 
 ment of my tent, and putting my extensive establishment 
 in as complete order as possible. I am glad to say that 
 most of the American miners ceased work on the Sab- 
 bath. The pine and oak trees in the northern mines grow 
 to a great height, unlike the dwarf oak trees peculiar to 
 the southern mines. The gold about this locality was 
 more generally diffused than in the southern, making 
 the chances for success by individual miners more sure ; 
 but perhaps, as I happened to meet with more agreeable 
 acquaintances, and my time passed away more pleasantly, 
 I may be prejudiced in my feelings and opinions as to the 
 relative merits of the northern and southern mines. Mr. 
 0. and I continued working together until April 21st, 
 when his friends arrived, neai'ly every one of whom I 
 found had been my fellow travelers to California, which 
 was very gratifying to me. Although I missed the old
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. C9 
 
 gentleman, particularly at nigbt, 1 had the whole party 
 with me nearly every evening. My tent appeared to be 
 the attractive spot for very many of the miners, who as- 
 sembled every evening around the blazing fire I kept up, 
 and I shall ever remember with pleasure the pleasant 
 evenings on that mountain, overlooking the rapidly in- 
 creasing city of Nevada. 
 
 The mines extended over a considerable space of 
 ground. " Gold Run" was the most valuable locality for 
 mining ; — immense quantities of the precious metal were 
 taken from it. Other ravines in the neighborhood of Ne- 
 vada were alive with men digging, washing and panning 
 out the gold. 
 
 A company of Frenchmen pitched their tent near mine, 
 and every evening they would make the woods re-echo 
 with their French songs and boisterous merriment. On 
 Sunday evenings they would sing the Marseillaise Hymn, 
 and liquor was the active stimulus to their naturally vola- 
 tile dispositions. 
 
 A little way above me were three Germans. They had 
 no tent, but encamped under a large oak, and these men 
 would call up a melancholy feeling whenever they sang, 
 for their favorite airs were the plaintive, home feeling 
 songs of their Fatherland, after singing which, they would 
 quietly lay down to rest, and silence reigned around. 
 
 Nevada was situated in a valley, surrounded by hills
 
 70 ' SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 and creeks. Deer Creek was the most important stream, 
 and even this beautiful transparent river was turned from 
 its natural course ; in truth the very heart of the city- 
 was dug up, and there was no telling where the digging 
 would end. 
 
 As usual at every village, the sporting fraternity were 
 on hand, and even in the wilds of California, amid vol- 
 canic looking rocks and crevices, where the thunder seem- 
 ed to roar the loudest, where the lightning flashed most 
 vividly, — there even men who were strangers to the chris- 
 tian religion and its benign influence would congregate, 
 open their games, surrounded by all the paraphernalia of 
 their profession, and entice the unwary, as a " spider does 
 the fly," into their meshes. But there were also men at 
 Nevada who had been accustomed to religious exercises 
 at home — men who had assisted at prayer meetings, who 
 had often prayed, "Lead us not into temptation," and 
 here they conducted themselves so differently that their 
 previous life appeared all a sham. 
 
 Very near my tent was located a valued friend from 
 Providence, R. I. This gentleman was a sincere chris- 
 tian and always lived up to his profession. Often when 
 the hard day's work was done, when the night was dark 
 and gloomy, when the only light visible was reflected from 
 a gambling saloon, we would sit down under the umbra- 
 geous branches of a tall oak, before a cheerful fire, and sing
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 71 
 
 the old hymu tunes, so familiar to me from having, when 
 a boy, joined in singing, in youthful innocence, the same 
 tunes in the catechetical class. It was not strange that 
 our ordinary singing would quiet the tumultuous crowd, 
 for " Old Hundred" would always bring to mind " the 
 light of other days," and it was not strange, then, that 
 our locality upon the " hill top" was the *' rendezvous' of 
 a large number of miners. 
 
 Another dear friend was Col. 0., formerly of Kentucky, 
 a gentleman of the old school, of fine commanding appear- 
 ance — his silvery hair only adding dignity to his elegant 
 contour. He was engaged in merchandizing. When the 
 days's work over, I always felt tired and jaded. On my 
 way to my tent, which was near the colonel's store, 1 
 could see the kind and considerate old gentleman watch- 
 ing for my return, always having some refreshment pre- 
 pared fur me. These little acts of kindness endeared 
 him to me, and it afforded me great pleasure to assist him 
 at evening in waiting upon his customers. 
 
 When we left our tents we always felt sure our valu- 
 ables would be safe, because the miner's law was the law, 
 and their justice was meted out quick and sure — no quib- 
 bling and tedijus wrangling. I have seen, at a distance, 
 men flogged for committing crimes, and then drummed out 
 of camp. Was a miner robbed, was a miner murdered, 
 the report flew around the camp with lightning speed. —
 
 72 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 The culprit, if caught, was summarily dealth with ; and 
 if persons think this harsh and cruel, they must only 
 place themselves in a country without laws, without pro- 
 per courts of justice, and then "circumstances alter cases." 
 
 Gold hunting is, without doubt, the most exciting life 
 a man can lead. No matter how unsuccessful, no matter 
 if the result of a hard day's labor yielded barely suffi- 
 cient to [>ay necessary expenses, the hope, the pleasurable 
 hope of finding the " big lump" next day, fills the miner's 
 breast with joy and delightful anticipation, and keeps up 
 the spirits of men who otherwise would despond. The 
 " pleasures of hope" are more strikingly exemplified in a 
 California miner's life than under any other circumstances. 
 
 The whole business is a lottery. Men would some- 
 times stumble over places, as if by chance, and dig away 
 and secure " a pile." I have been tolerably successful 
 myself, by the merest chance of " prospecting" where 
 others had often and often passed over, without the slight- 
 est encouragement to believe that gold could be found 
 there. The success of a miner depends, in a great meas- 
 ure, upon first learning that " a rolling stone gathers no 
 moss," Too often men would leave good locations, ac- 
 tuated by an uncontrollable restlessness, and such would 
 rarely succeed. But those that were content to work 
 steadily, " mind their own business," and resist tempta- 
 tion, generally reaped the greatest reward in gold digging.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 73 
 
 Physical strength was all-important. Men with stout 
 arms, who could handle the pick and shovel all day, and 
 retain their health, were most successful. I know that if 
 ray physical strength had equaled my disposition and will 
 to work, I should soon have secured a competency. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION TO WASHINGTON CITY— INCI- 
 DENTS AT THE MINES, &c., &c.— 1850. 
 
 The rain had ceased — the dark and threatening clouds 
 had disappeared — the small streams were fast drying up — 
 the dews no longer moistened the parched earth, and hill- 
 side and valley looked as dry as though the rain had never 
 descended. The almost, if not entirely, perpetual snow 
 that capped the towering mountains of the Sierra Nevada, 
 yielded slightly to the noon-day heat, and thus the va- 
 rious streams contiguous, were sustained. 
 
 Men who had journeys to perform of any distance, al- 
 ways carried a supply of water with them ; and yet one 
 of the peculiarities of the climate was, that no matter how 
 hot and oppressive the sun's rays, the moment you could 
 find shelter under a tree, the air was cool and deli- 
 cious, owing to the constant breeze from the surrounding 
 mountains. 
 4
 
 74 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 My friend from Rhode Island was anxious to visit 
 " Washington city," situated on the Yuba river, distant 
 about 1 wenty-five miles ; and, as he knew I was always 
 ready for a tramp, and desirous of seeing as much of the 
 country as possible, proposed that I should accompany 
 him. So, on Thursday, May 30th, we commenced our 
 march in fine humor and excellent condition — like most 
 travelers afoot, we were talking and laughing as merrily 
 as school boys, until we began to ascend the first moun- 
 tain on our way, and then didn't we toil and pant? Not 
 a word was now spoken ; slowly we pressed on, and when 
 we reached the summit of the rugged mountain we were 
 bathed in perspiration. We had our bedding strapped to 
 our backs, the rays of the sun were beating down upon us, 
 and I began to think, that I at least was paying "dear for 
 the whistle." When about midway to our journey's end, 
 my friend fainted, and fell by the roadside. I was in a 
 pretty predicament, not a drop of water by me, and none 
 in sight ; so I sat by him till he revived. He determined 
 to continue on ; I insisted upon carrying his pack, and we 
 traveled along pretty well for a mile or more, when over 
 he tumbled again ; this time I sought around in various 
 directions for water, but none could I perceive, and when 
 I returned to him he was sitting up, ready to proceed — 
 so on we marched. 
 
 At length I espied a path diverging from the main road,
 
 SKETCHES OF TKAVKLS. 75 
 
 and following it we found a cool spring, where we quench- 
 ed our thirst, washed our faces, and felt much refreshed. 
 Again we started forward, and soon came to the wildest, 
 and most romantic natural scenery I had ever beheld. 
 Imagine two mountains cleft asunder, a rugged wall of 
 rocks and rubbish rising in the middle of the gap to the 
 to]), forming a natural causeway from one mountain to the 
 other. On either side a valley so deep that it pained the 
 eye to gaze down so far. There were evidences of some 
 violent concussion of nature — some terrible volcanic erup- 
 tion, which had torn the rocks asunder — piled them in 
 pyramidal form, while here and there huge boulders stood 
 out alone, and the very earth we passed over seemed to be 
 ground pumice stone. Pausing awhile to gaze in silent awe 
 upon this grand spectacle, we passed on, still seeming to 
 ascend higher and higher the long range of mountains, and 
 occasionally we obtained an uninterrupted view of the 
 magnificent and diversified scenery around us. 
 
 Here we could perceive the North Yuba river rushing 
 madly down the precipitous rocks. Again, further on, 
 some vast plain where the foot of white man had never 
 yet trod ; and yonder to the right of us were the Sierra 
 Nevada mountains, their lofty summits almost lost to view 
 amid the clouds. 
 
 We began to think if Washington was only, twenty-five 
 miles from Nevada, it was time we were within sight of it.
 
 76 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 On ascending another rock we perceived something like a 
 village before us ; we pressed forward, but we thought 
 our progress must be either very slow, or else the path we 
 were pursuing only wound round rnd round the gigantic 
 mountain, We were exceedingly tliirsty, continually cry- 
 ing out for water ! water ! and what annoyed us the more 
 was, the sight of a clear stream of mountain water cours- 
 ing rapidly down the rugged rocks and cliflFs, but inac- 
 cessible to us. 
 
 So steep was this mountain that wagons, loaded with 
 provisions for the miners about Washington, had large 
 trees fastened to their wheels, and with a push they were 
 started forward and allowed to bring up wherever they 
 could. Oftentimes they upset, scattering flour, bacon and 
 rum in beautiful confusion over the ground. We finally 
 reached the foot of the mountain, and gladly sat down 
 beneath a tall oak to rest. My friend's acquaintances 
 were located upon the opposite side of the river, upon 
 whose banks we were resting. Towards dusk we started 
 forward, crossed over the river on a log, and after con- 
 siderable difficulty in following the tortuous path, found 
 the friends we were in search of. We were too weary 
 even for conversation, and reserved our observations on 
 claims and mining until morning, and found comfort in a 
 good night's rest on the moss-covered rocks, peeping out 
 here and there like cannon on some ancient fort.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 77 
 
 The next morning I enjoyed a refreshing bath in the 
 river, and after locating claims, recrossed the Yuba, and 
 partook of a capital breakfast at the " Washington House." 
 We took a view of the mining operations, but I was so 
 dissatisfied with the locality that I cordially seconded my 
 friend's proposal to proceed homeward the following morn- 
 ing. The result of my trip amounted to nothing, for I 
 never thought of my claims one day afterwards, although 
 I was importuned to " come up and assist in getting 
 out the ore." 
 
 On Saturday, June 1st, we slowly reascended the rough 
 and precipitous mountain, and when we sat down to rest, 
 found we had consumed a great part of the morning in 
 the ascent. The scenery appeared even more picturesque 
 than on our first day's tramp, but as we were returning 
 home and knew the route better, we may have felt more 
 inclined to observe and enjoy the varied beauties of the 
 country. Sometimes our road was perfectly level ; then 
 ascended a steep mountain, overlooking an almost inter- 
 minable space of ground, and again it seemed lost in a 
 woods, thickly studded with lofty trees of gigantic dimen- 
 sions, where the almost oppressive silence was disturbed 
 only by the sweet carols of the numerous beautiful birds, 
 that were flyiug above and around us. 
 
 The extreme heat of the sun, our blistered feet, and 
 wearied limbs, caused us very frequently to halt and rest.
 
 78 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 Occasionally, other parties overtook us, and tlie grotesque 
 appearance we mutually presented, afforded merriment 
 to all. Twilight was setting in, and our march was en- 
 livened by the music of the myriads of insects that keep 
 quiet during the light of day, but swarm around at night. 
 We were nearly overcome with fatigue, and proposed rest- 
 ing for the night on the road, when some one espied the 
 lights reflected from the city, and we pushed forward and 
 soon arrived safely at our tents, where we met with a 
 cordial reception from our friends. 
 
 That night I slept so soundly that a volley from a regi- 
 ment of soldiers only could have awakened me, nor did I 
 awake from my slumbers until the sun introduced another 
 day, and the many birds that always perched on the 
 branches of trees near me, were singing their morning 
 songs. 
 
 I rested for several days with all the " otium cum dig- 
 nitate^' of a prince, under the beautiful trees that shel- 
 tered my mountain home ; and not until I fully re- 
 covered my usual strength did I venture to resume gold 
 hunting. 
 
 I was engaged at the "intellectual" occupation o^ fry- 
 ing sweet cakes, when I happened to look up, and per- 
 ceived a woman, fatigued and care-worn, propounding 
 questions to me about Nevada and the best place to pitch 
 her tent ; she told me her husband, driving a " wagon and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 79 
 
 two," was on liis way, and she desired to select a location 
 prior to his arrival. I had been listening so attentively to 
 the lady that, upon looking at my cakes, I found not only 
 them, but the leaves around, were burning up, and thus 
 my " extra dish" was lost ! However, I selected a de- 
 lightfully shaded spot for the stranger to locate, and in a 
 short time the husband drove along, and thus another 
 tent was added to the hill. We had lived so many months 
 without the refining influence of respectable women, that 
 each of us felt glad to see our town improving, and wo- 
 men being added to the large crowd of men who needed 
 something to restrain them in their frolics and boisterous 
 conduct. And yet I had become so accustomed to the 
 wild, free and unrestrained life of a California miner, that 
 I must confess I felt uncomfortable to find my heretofore 
 quiet retreat upon the " hill top," invaded by strangers, 
 thus destroying, as it were, my privacy and solitude. 
 
 One great disadvantage we labored under was the diffi- 
 culty of procuring our letters from San Francisco ; until, 
 finally, two men started an express, and for two dollars 
 they would bring a' letter, provided, of course, there were 
 any there for us. I know I did not add to their treas- 
 ury, for either my friends did not trouble themselves 
 to write to me, or else the void my absence created was 
 soon filled ; at all events, the express men invariably in- 
 formed me — " nothing for you, sir." The only satisfaction
 
 so SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 I had was in finding fault with " Uncle Sam" and his 
 whole batch of clerks. 
 
 Among my evening visitors were several young men, 
 whose tent was nearly a mile from mine, and they reported 
 one evening that " something was going on" about their 
 locality ; — that " men who had valuable claims were pack- 
 ing up their mining tools," and if they had not some 
 better claims in view, they certainly would not forsake 
 those they were working. 
 
 I hardly knew how to account for this, but we separat- 
 ed with the understanding that each man would seek all 
 the information he could, and report next evening. For 
 myself, I only casually heard of •' rich mining districts," lo- 
 cated far up the mountains, but could obtain no positive in- 
 formation. The next evening I had a blazing fire burning, 
 and my Rhode Island friend and myself were seated on the 
 old log, in front of my tent, awaiting our " up river 
 friends." At length, all were assembled together, and 
 now for the news. *' Well," began the most enthusiastic 
 miner, " I have the whole secret ; a man has returned 
 from a distant place exhibiting considerable gold dust, and 
 he wants fifty reliable men, each to be supplied with three 
 month's provisions, to purchase two mules to carry mining 
 utensils and supplies, and he will take them to the Gold 
 Lake, where the richest deposits of gold can be found; 
 and if his declarations should not hold good, his life to pay 
 the forfeit. '
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVliLS. 81 
 
 This was exciting intelligence to us, and as the " mule 
 party," as we termed them, kept their plans secret, and 
 intended to go off at night, we agreed to follow after them 
 " on foot," and determined to come in for a share. The 
 excitement, I found, was extending. Our party of bold 
 and determined men fixed the time for starting, and in the 
 next chapter I will give a report of our journey in search 
 of " Gold Lake." 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE GOLD LAKE EXPEDITIOX. 
 On Friday, June 7th, 1850, there might have been ob- 
 served, here and there, a number of men with large packs 
 on their backs, slowly wending their way over the pre- 
 cipitous hills surrounding Nevada, and not until they en- 
 tered upon the lovely valley about three miles distant, 
 did they halt and make their final arrangements for the 
 arduous expedition they were about to undertake. The 
 advance party was provided with mules, and their move- 
 ments were kept secret ; and although ^e were traveling 
 on foot, we always managed to hold our own with them. 
 The first day's tramp brought us to "Washington" — 
 described in a former chapter. We encamped under the 
 sheltering branches of a venerable oak, but .we rested 
 
 badly ; — our limbs were so sore and bruised, that when we 
 4*
 
 82 SKETCHES OF TllAVELS. 
 
 arose in the morning, we were more fit for a bed than for 
 travel over the worst roads that can be imagined. 
 
 Saturday, June 8th, we crossed the Yuba river on a log 
 which the miners had thrown across for their convenience; 
 and as the river was wide, and the waters rolling rapidly, 
 the greatest caution was necessary to save us from a tum- 
 ble into the stream. Our packs were becoming too burden- 
 some, and I gave away, as did others, such articles as I did 
 not absolutely require. We came to " Poor Man's Creek," 
 so called, in consequence of some miners who had been 
 unsuccessful in other localities taking up claims here. — 
 This stream coursed along the gap of the rugged moun- 
 tain that seemed to hide it from view ; and the climbing 
 of the steep and rough hill on the other side of it almost 
 exhausted the party who where bound for Gold Lake. 
 
 On we pressed ; sometimes we had to force our way 
 through low chaparral, whose thorny stems interlaced 
 each other, tearing our clothes and persons, and then, 
 again, wading through rapid streams as straight in their 
 course as the twists of the numerous serpents we passed. 
 Towards night we ascended another steep and rugged 
 mountain, from whose summit we saw the Middle Yuba ; 
 and when we succeeded in crossing this narrow but angry 
 stream, we found a valley of limited size, where we en- 
 camped for the night. 
 
 The mountains over which we had traveled were heavily
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 83 
 
 timbered with oak, pine and cedar trees. Although the 
 days were uncomfortably warm, the nights were very cool. 
 I was much refreshed by a cold bath in the river. Here 
 I found an old man selling flour. I purchased 12.J pounds 
 of flour, for which the old settler charged only $5 75. — 
 Ills account of the road before us was any thing but en- 
 couraging. After cooking and eating a very meagre sup- 
 per, I sought my blankets, and slept as soundly as the 
 rock-bound hills. 
 
 Sunday, June 9th. We started on our " Goose lake 
 expedition," as we now began to term it, long before the 
 sun had appeared above the lofty hills, and such a road 
 for a man to travel, to say nothing of the great weight 
 each one carried on his back ! We now began to lose 
 sight of rivers, creeks and rivulets, and suffered much for 
 the want of water. My experience has taught me that 
 the absence of food is not near so distressing as the depri- 
 vation of water. 
 
 We scarcely uttered a word, and our tongues protruded, 
 and often I would hear some one cry out, " is there no 
 water near !" This day's tramp exceeded all the hardships 
 I had yet undergone, but we were agreeably surprised to 
 find at its terminus quite a village. We had reached the 
 north fork of Yuba river, near which was located the city of 
 Downieville, which has since become an important place. 
 Here we had a capital supper, charge $2, after which we
 
 84 SKKTCMES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 sought our comfortable blankets, and slept as usual under 
 the friendly branches of one of the numerous trees abound- 
 ing here. 
 
 Monday, June 10th. After breakfast at the " French 
 Restaurant," I purchased two pounds of ham for $2 25. — 
 This, with my flour, cooking utensils, mining implements, 
 clothing and bedding, were strapped to my back — a load 
 more fit for a mule than a human being to carry. 
 
 As usual, we were early on the start, and I did not 
 wonder at the miners around here, regarding with wonder 
 and surprise, the almost fagged out, but determined party. 
 Passing them by, on we went, and soon found another 
 stupendous mountain in our road, and I began to think if 
 we ascended many more such mountains we would reach 
 the clouds. The change in the temperature was very per- 
 ceptible ; when we arrived at the summit snow was seen 
 ahead of us. Our feelings were not so gay as when we 
 started, but still we endeavored to cheer each other, hoping 
 that " Gold Lake" would be reached before long. Other 
 parties, we understood, were following us, and the excite- 
 ment throughout the State was increasing. On we plodded 
 until we came to hills covered with snow, which led us to 
 suppose we were getting into a region of perpetual snow. 
 Finding a clear, dry spot of ground, we encamped. As 
 we had been unable to carry an abundant supply of pro- 
 visions, each man ate sparingly. After putting on the fire
 
 SKETCH KS OF TUAVELS. 85 
 
 all the old stumps and logs we could find, we stretched 
 our blankets ou the ground, and, as usual, slept com- 
 fortably. 
 
 Tuesday, June 11th. The air was chilly, and the ap- 
 pearance of the road ahead by no means cheering ; the 
 snow had nearly filled up the valleys, and as far as the eye 
 could reach, the earth seemed clothed in the same wintery 
 garb, and for the first time in our pilgrimage, we began to 
 fear that we had lost our reckoning of the probable lati- 
 tude of Gold Lake. 
 
 We sat down upon the hard frozen snow, and endeavor- 
 ed to study out whether we were going to, or from the 
 coveted lake, Far away over the mountains we could see 
 the lurid smoke arising from the wigwam of the hostile 
 Indian. The only tracks we could perceive were the foot- 
 prints of deer and bears ; and each man, but myself, (as 
 I carried no weapon) examined his gun and prepared for 
 the worst. 
 
 At length we decided to proceed in a northerly direc- 
 tion, and began the ascent of another mountain ; after 
 awhile, on looking up, we thought we saw on the summit 
 the ruins of some old castle or monastery, but when we 
 reached the top of the mountain, we found that what we 
 supposed to be some ancient ruin, was nothing but huge 
 boulders projecting from the highest point of the mountain. 
 "We found the valley on the other side, filled to the tops
 
 86 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS, 
 
 of tall pine trees with snow, and we were puzzled how to 
 proceed, until we finally hit upon the laughable expedient of 
 each man placing his wash pan on the snow, then getting 
 into it, and with a gentle shove, down we went pell mell, 
 over and over, rolling and tumbling, until we reached the 
 base. Here we had unmistakable evidence that we were 
 in the track of the party in advance ; so on we traveled. 
 "We came to a wild looking place, interspersed with ravines 
 and valleys, stretched along the base of the high moun- 
 tains, which we afterwards learned constituted " Canon 
 creek and valley." 
 
 We rested in the valley which was free from snow, and 
 partook of a very cold collation. My feet were wet, my 
 shoulders sore, I felt in no very agreeable mood, although I 
 was assured by my companions that my cheerful conversa- 
 tion kept them in excellent spirits. There was an elderly 
 man with us, and I feared he could not endure the depriva- 
 tions and exposures be was necessarily forced to undergo, 
 and for his sake, I exerted myself to appear gay and lively. 
 On we tramped, crossing snow banks, then getting almost 
 bewildered in a dense forest, and again emerging on a 
 plain of dreary, cheerless snow. Still on, on we pressed, 
 until the straps of my bundle gave way, and I determined 
 to halt until I could repair them. They had lacerated 
 my shoulders, and produced intense pain. Well for the 
 jaded and unhappy men that I was compelled to halt, for
 
 SKKTCHES OF TRAVIiLS. 87 
 
 we had not been long seated ere we heard the tinkling of 
 a bell. '' What is that 1" " Can it be the approach of 
 hostile Indians 1" " Come, men, shoulder arms ! let us 
 prepare to act on the defensive." Just then, from around 
 a hill of snow, was observed, slowly approaching, a man 
 leading a mule, to which was attached a bell ! then an- 
 other, and another, and we discovered that, instead of hos- 
 tile Indians, they were the advance party returning irom 
 their "Goose lake hunt!" They reported the utter im- 
 possibility of proceeding farther, in consequence of the 
 interminable mountains of snow ; that they believed the 
 snow about here was perpetual. 
 
 They were accompanied by the man who betrayed and 
 disappointed them; and while some of the party clamored 
 for his death, the rest, more kindly and charitably dispos- 
 ed, begged for his life, believing that his reason was de- 
 throned! The party passed on, and as they carried their 
 mining implements with them, we believed their story. 
 
 When they were out of sight, all around us was still 
 and quiet, save the chilling winds, howling through the 
 almost impenetrable forests. We, seven men, feeling the 
 importance of our lonely and isolated situation, held coun- 
 sel together, and agreed to retrace our steps after break- 
 fast next morning. Every one of us felt serious and so- 
 lemn ; our consultation was conducted with more solem- 
 nity than any meeting I had ever attended before.
 
 88 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 Wednesday, June 12th, Although a blazing fire was 
 kept up, the air was so keen that we could not keep com- 
 fortable with our scanty bedding. We breakfasted on 
 bread baked in the ashes, without salt or saleratus ; we 
 gnawed at a bone, from which the meat had disappeared a 
 day or two previously ; and drank tea made of spruce twigs. 
 Although disappointed in our anticipations, although we 
 endured almost incredible hardships, still we were con- 
 tent; we risked our lives and comfort to be sure, but we 
 started to California to better our fortunes, and in pursuit 
 of the same object, we started on this expedition with the 
 hope of accumulating " our pile" in little " less than no 
 time." After our meagre breakfast we started on our 
 return to Nevada. We met other parties bound for Gold 
 Lake, and all our representations and persuasions could 
 not influence them. On they went, only to certain dis- 
 appointment. 
 
 Night came on — dark dreary night, among the snow 
 clad hills, and again we halted, constructed a bush arbor, 
 threw our aching limbs upon the ground, and slept " until 
 daylight did appear." 
 
 Thursday, June 13th. Cloudy when we started; after 
 awhile a cold chilly rain set in, and we were all completely 
 saturated. Some were suffering greatly from the effects of 
 the cold and damp atmosphere. Towards noon we con- 
 cluded to halt, and wait for the storm to cease.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 89 
 
 Friday, June 14th. Rested badly last night, and as 
 the storm of rain and sleet continued, and further travel 
 would be Impossible, we concluded to remain here, and at 
 once commenced the erection of a temporary shelter by 
 cutting down saplings and gathering brush, and when our 
 magnificent structure was completed, we hoped we had 
 secured for that night a comfortable rest. "We started a 
 fire — piled on old logs and stumps, and if the snow had 
 not served as a barrier, we might have fired the woods. — 
 After supper we laid down to court the sleep we so much 
 needed. 
 
 Saturday, June 15th. "While the storm was at its 
 highest, when the snow, rain, hail and wind appeared to 
 be violently contending for the mastery, the night as dark 
 as Erebus, down tumbled our " splendid bush arbor !" — 
 Drenched to the skin and half frozen, we scrambled from 
 under the cold, wet bushes, stirred up the almost dying 
 embers, and with the patience of Job, stood around a 
 blazing fire, endeavoring to dry our bed and baggage. — 
 We hugged around the fire like half frozen Indians, until 
 daylight appeared. And as the storm continued, we be- 
 gan to think we were in a latitude that knew no fair 
 weather, so we bundled up our partially dried clothes, and 
 determined to proceed onward, for surely, we could hardly 
 fare worse. We traveled Indian fashion — one behind the 
 other, and when we had proceeded about four or five miles,
 
 90 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 we were agreeably surprised to find the sun shining and 
 not a particle of snow visible. We now felt more com- 
 fortable, and towards night came in sight of Downieville. 
 At last we reached the settlement, and after partaking of 
 a refreshing meal at the " French Hotel," we sought our 
 blankets and enjoyed a good night's rest. 
 
 CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 CONCLUSION OF THE GOLD LAKE EXPEDITION— MINES AND 
 
 MINING ABOUT NEVADA.— 1850. 
 
 The next day feeling somewhat rested, we took a stroll 
 through the village of Downieville. Here, far away from 
 any other settlement — high up in the mountains — where 
 a few months previous, white man had never trod ; where 
 the untutored Indian hunted the numerous wild animals 
 prowling around; where the clear, almost transparent river 
 had followed its meandering course for ages undisturbed, 
 the country now teemed with brave, energetic and perse- 
 vering Americans, who had driven back the hostile and 
 trifling Indian, turned the river from its natural channel, 
 and were building up a town, which promised to become 
 of considerable importance. When this country belonged 
 to the thriftless and indifferent Mexican, these hills and 
 valleys lavished upon the desert air their wealth and 
 beauty. It remained for the indomitable and thorough-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 91 
 
 going Anglo-Saxon race, to bring forth the mineral and 
 agricultural wealth of this beautiful and valuable country. 
 
 About the time I am writing, Downieville numbered 
 some five hundred inhabitants, but there were many mi- 
 ners who lived in their own tents outside the village. 
 
 The steep and lofty mountain directly fronting the little 
 village of tents, was so rugged and sudden in its declivity, 
 that wagons could not descend; hence, mules packed with 
 about 200 lbs. of provisions were started ahead, and some- 
 times, cautious in his step as this animal is known to be, 
 he would miss his foothold, tumble over and over, until 
 he reached the base^ and not unfrequently plunge into the 
 river, where the poor beast found rest in death. I had a 
 sufficient supply of flour to last me for two or three days, 
 but tired of my meagre fare, I purchased li lbs. of salt 
 pork for $ I 13; fried out the fat, and made bread "so 
 rich," that hungry as I was, I could scarcely swallow it. 
 
 Monday, June 17th. Early in the morning we " hitch- 
 ed up" our packs, bade farewell to Downieville, and re- 
 sumed our home-bound tramp. After suffering great fa- 
 tigue, and almost incredible hardships, we reached the 
 " middle Yuba station" about dusk. I enjoyed a capital 
 bath in the river, and having partaken of a very light sup- 
 'per, I " turned in" my blankets, and regardless of the ma- 
 ny wild animals that were prowling around and had never 
 " smelt gun-powder," I soon forgot my weariness in re- 
 freshing sleep.
 
 92 SKETCHES OT TRAVELS. 
 
 Tuesday, June ISth. Slept comfortably last night, and 
 after breakfast — and such a breakfast ! we shouldered our 
 packs, crossed the river, and pursued a different route 
 from the one "we traveled on our upward trip. We as- 
 cended a hill beautifully shaded by oak, cedar and pine 
 trees, and the view, as far around as the eye conld reach, 
 was charming. About noon we reached Poor Man's 
 Creek; here we found a man selling refreshments under a 
 bush arbor, and after encouraging the newly established 
 caterer, for the inner man, we shouldered arms, (I was go- 
 ing to say,) but packs, I mean, and commenced the ascent 
 of a mountain so steep, that we were often compelled to 
 seize hold of the low bushes growing here and there, to 
 prevent our falling backward. This was an exceedingly 
 tedious and wearisome exercise, as most of it was per- 
 formed on all fours ; but a rest on the brow of the moun- 
 tain, shaded by lofty oaks, and a delightful breeze prevail- 
 ing, refreshed us very much. We were soon again on the 
 march, and " trotted down the hill" much faster than we 
 had climbed up on the other side. 
 
 Late in the day, we espied the " great mountain city of 
 Washington," and although we had no acquaintances 
 there to welcome our arrival, still the fact that we were 
 approaching a familiar spot, made us feel much more 
 agreeable than when we halted at other places further up 
 the mountains.
 
 SKEXgnES OF TRAVELS. 93 
 
 We refreslied ourselves by a capital supper, and an in- 
 vigorating bath in the Yuba river, which coursed along, 
 not only the villages, but rushed rapidly down the gaps 
 of the steep, rugged and high mountains, so peculiar to 
 the extreme northern portion of California. 
 
 Wednesday, June 19th. At early dawn, when the sun 
 was just peeping above the lofty hills surrounding Wash- 
 ington, our bodies strengthened and spirits enlivened by 
 the pure and invigorating mountain air, we commenced 
 another day's tramp. We avoided climbing the stupen- 
 dous mountain crossed on our first day's march, by follow- 
 ing a zig-zag path, which ran along the river, until it 
 reached the village of Jefferson, and was there lost in a 
 labyrinth of rocks, bushes and briers, which defied the 
 efforts of man to disentangle. " Jefferson city," boasting 
 of only a tent or two, and holding out no inducements for 
 jaded passengers to stop and contemplate, we pushed 
 ahead, hoping to reach Nevada by night. To our delight, 
 we found a mountain cottage in our path, a comfortable 
 tenement erected since we had passed along a few days 
 previous. Here we appeased our hunger and quenched 
 our thirst with the cool, sparkling water, gushing up from 
 beneath a tall, straight oak, and again pushed ahead, feel- 
 ing very comfortable and in good humor with ourselves 
 and all around us. 
 
 The roads were now more level, the temperature de-
 
 94 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 lightful. Difficult, arduous, and pecuniarily unprofitable 
 as our expedition had proved, nevertheless, the prospect 
 of soon reaching our tents and enjoying a rest, and of once 
 more meeting our Nevada friends, filled our hearts with 
 unalloyed pleasure. On we plodded, and it was not 
 strange that we fancied the very trees we passed, the very 
 grass we trod down, appeared more pleasing to tlie eye 
 than when we traveled over the same road a few days 
 previously. The next stopping place was the " Franklin 
 House ;" here we likewise partook of refreshments. The 
 Franklin was only a blue tent, but it afforded a very ac- 
 ceptable shelter from the rays of the sun. The scenery 
 around was beautiful, not such stupendous mountains, not 
 such rugged paths as we had recently passed over, but 
 presenting in admirable contrast, a lovely open country. 
 We " up packs" and leisurely proceeded until we reached 
 "Cao, formidable Rock Creek, a stream about six inches deep, 
 and about forty inches wide; and after a cooling draught 
 and a comfortable rest on the green sward, we resumed our 
 march, and before dark espied our tents standing out like 
 sentinels on the hill top, seeming to invite us to come and 
 take possession ; of course, our acquaintances congregated 
 around us that night, and the shouts of laughter that our 
 description of Gold Lake hunting called forth, were loud 
 enough to awaken the numerous birds that found shelter 
 in the trees above us.
 
 SKETCHES OK TUAVUIS. 95 
 
 Thursday, June 20th. As an evidence of the continued 
 high prices of the necessaries of life, I will enumerate 
 what 1 purchased this day — 35 cts. for ^ lb. saleratus ; 
 25 cts. for ^ lb. salt ; $2 for 20 lbs. of flour ; $1 60 for 4 
 lbs. salt pork ; and 50 cts for one pint of molasses. 
 
 The journey from which I had just returned, although 
 yielding no pecuniary advantage, still afforded me the best 
 opportunity of observing the upper country of California, 
 which very few at that time had ventured to explore. 
 
 The scenery along the route was most grand, often- 
 times sublime ; the trees which predominated were the 
 cedar, spruce, pine and oak, generally of immense size and 
 height. The flowers were chiefly wild roses, jessamine, 
 and the humble, but sweet scented violet. Very fre- 
 quently we made tea out of spruce twigs, vi'hich, if not 
 possessing any stimulating properties, at least had a 
 pleasant taste, not unlike lemonade. Our meat, so long 
 as we had any, was roasted on a stick, and our bread 
 baked in the ashes. Squirrels and small birds were nu- 
 merous ; grizzly bear tracks were often seen, and as for 
 snakes, we met them far more frequently than we desired. 
 
 On Thursday, June 28th, I commenced work in earnest, 
 and so long &» my physical strength held out, I continued 
 remarkably successful, and what was equally remarkable, 
 every member of our party on the Gold Lake expedition 
 succeeded in procuring profitable claims. In a previous
 
 96 SKETCHES OF TRAVKLS, 
 
 chapter I ventured the opinion that in most cases success 
 in gold hunting was a mere lottery, and as an exemplifica- 
 tion of that assertion, I will cite my|claim on Gold run. I 
 had rested several days atter my return from my arduous 
 journey, and began to feel a disposition to resume work, 
 so I threw my sliovel and wash-pan over my shoulder, 
 and started out on a prospecting tour. I followed along 
 Gold run for a mile or more, and although there were no 
 evidences of valuable " dirt " to wash, I concluded I would 
 make an attempt here, where the lofty pines afforded a 
 delightful shade, and a short distance below a beautiful 
 running spring, which seemed to say, " come and try me." 
 I washed out a couple of pans of dirt, and I felt satisfied I 
 had found my fortune at last. Off I scampered to my tent, 
 offered a man who was complaining of "nothing to do," 
 half of the day's proceeds; and we hurried over to Gold 
 run with my rocker and mining tools. It was not long 
 before we were digging, rattling, and splashing away at a 
 brisk rate. The weather was extremely warm, but the 
 shade from the lofty pines sheltered us, and the little 
 spring was a treasure. That night we divided twenty-four 
 dollars, and had not yet reached the richest deposits, — 
 Next day, before the stars liad passed out of sight, we were 
 cooking our breakfast, and before the sun had come forth, 
 we were hard at work. 
 
 My claim continued to "pay well" and increase in
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 97 
 
 value, and this hitherto deserted spot was becoming 
 crowded with gold hunters, digging all around me, but 
 without success ; and I continued prospering and " coin- 
 ing money," until the hard labor, too severe for my con- 
 stitution, enfeebled by my late journey, completely pros- 
 trated me, and I was compelled to give up mining. In 
 the meanwhile my claim was " jumped," and in less than 
 a month other parties succeeded in extracting $8,000. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 LEAVING THE MINES— OFF ON A VOYAGE TO THE TROPICS. 
 
 Tuesday, July 23d, 1850. Bidding adieu to all my 
 friends about Nevada, I jumped into a covered wagon, 
 and with five other passengers, started for Sacramento. 
 The frequent exposures. and hardships to which I had been 
 subjected, told seriously upon my health, and I conceived 
 the idea that a voyage on the " deep blue sea" would re- 
 store me to full strength and vigor. On Wednesday, July 
 24th, we reached a tent, whose proprietor was so genial 
 and accommodating, that we held over until the next day. 
 
 Thursday, July 25th, Reached Sacramento about noon. 
 
 The improvements that had been made since my first 
 
 visit, about three months previously, attested the assertion 
 
 I then advanced about the indomitable energy and enter- 
 
 5
 
 98 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 prise of the American settlers. Elegant and commodious 
 houses had been erected, and there were indubitable mani- 
 festations that Sacramento would assume a high rank 
 among the cities of California. The city was built upon 
 level ground — in fact, for miles north of it, there was 
 scarcely a hill to be seen, and the admirable water front 
 served as an anchorage for vessels of the largest capacity. 
 
 During the afternoon, I stepped aboard a small steamer 
 bound for San Francisco ; and after a tedious and rough 
 passage, reached the metropolis of California on Saturday 
 morning, July 27th. Soon after I landed, I received the 
 unpleasant intelligence that my trunk, containing my best 
 clothing, and all my little valuables, had been destroyed by 
 fire during my absence from the city ; and the hotel, in which 
 I had enjoyed so many pleasant evenings, was also con- 
 sumed, together with a vast amount of property adjoin- 
 ing ; all of which was the fiendish work of some vile in- 
 cendiary. I was grieved to learn that nearly every one 
 of my intimate acquaintances had left the city, some for 
 home, and others for different sections of the State. 
 
 On Saturday, August 3d, I numbered one among a hun- 
 dred or more men, treading the decks of the brig Ann and 
 Julia, bound for Panama. A breeze springing up during 
 the afternoon, the anchor was hoisted, and with three 
 cheers from ship and shore, we headed for the tropics. 
 If the Pacific ocean, was named under the impression
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 99 
 
 that it was more mild and less tempestuous than the At- 
 lantic ocean, my experience does not accord with that of 
 Magellan's ; for we had an almost continuous succession 
 of storms and rough seas, that tried hard our " A No. 1 
 coppered and copper fastened brig." 
 
 Some of the passengers, tired of a life on the ocean, 
 after a couple of week's experience on board the staunch 
 old brig, prevailed upon the captain to steer for Acapulco, 
 Mexico. I was delighted at this change, for although I had 
 no intention of leaving the vessel, it would give me an op- 
 portunity of seeing more places than were put down in the 
 programme. We frequently saw whales, porpoises, and 
 flying fish ; and a passenger harpooned a dolphin, a most 
 beautiful fish, weighing at least sixty pounds. When 
 placed upon deck, I ^s^atched its expiring death-throes. — 
 It seemed to emulate all the colors of the rainbow, and 
 with its last struggle, it gave a terrible lashing of the deck 
 with its fan-shaped tail. 
 
 On the evening of August 13th, we were visited by a 
 terrible gale, which tossed our vessel up and down, as 
 though it had been a chip. The orders of the captain, 
 answered by the crew, only added to the deafening roar of 
 the angry waters; and in the height of the storm, some 
 one cried out, "Man overboard." His awful cry for " help, 
 help, help," was heard above the roar of wind and waves. 
 The ship was almost beyond control ; and even if a boat
 
 100 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 could have been thrown over, it could not have lived two 
 minutes in that dreadful hurricane. And ere we had time 
 to comprehend his hopeless situation, the maddened, up- 
 heaving waves had carried the poor fellow beyond reach. 
 I had been conversing with him but a few moments prior 
 to his being knocked overboard, and I regretted exceed- 
 ingly the loss of one who had jjraved the hardships and 
 exposures of a miner's life ; — one about to return to those 
 who knew and loved him ; his heart exulting in the happy 
 anticipation of a speedy union with his betrothed, and for 
 whom, life presented a bright prospect of future happiness 
 and usefulness. 
 
 Some days subsequent to this melancholy incident, an- 
 other passenger was knocked overboard by the "jib 
 boom ;" but as the sea was comparatively smooth, and the 
 luckless passenger a good swimmer, he was rescued. I 
 felt painfully excited to see a human being struggling in 
 the ocean, his form receding from the vessel. We feared 
 our long boat could not reach him in time ; we all sang 
 out to him, " keep up, keep up." He divested himself of 
 his pantaloons and boots, and struggled manfully against 
 the current, which was carrying him almost out of sight. 
 Sections of masts were thrown overboard, which fortu- 
 nately reached him. He seized hold of one, and buoyed 
 himself up until the long boat reached him, and he was 
 soon once more on deck.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 101 
 
 On Tuesday, August 27th, we neared Acapulco, Mexico ; 
 but it always seemed as though, when we were heading 
 for a port, the wind died away. At length, after a slow 
 sail, we espied the Mexican territory ; but as Acapulco is 
 hemmed in by high hills, the town was invisible until we 
 rounded a range of rocks, and then it suddenly burst upon 
 our view. The anchor was let go, and such a bustle and 
 confusion as was on board that vessel then, was enough 
 to frighten the lazy, thriftless natives. Row boats, dug- 
 outs, and boats of various shapes and sizes, surrounded our 
 vessel, each ladened with tropical fruits, eggs, sweet 
 bread, and milk, and a brisk trade was at once commen- 
 ced. I did not go ashore until next day, when, accompa- 
 nied by several friends, we chartered a row boat, and as the 
 distance from the anchorage was short, we were soon land- 
 ed on Mexican soil. Immediately in front of the princi- 
 pal landing, (there were no wharves,) was a long, one stori- 
 ed stone building, known as the United States Hotel, with 
 the most miserable fare and accommodations. To the 
 right of this building was another tavern, having a drug 
 store in one room — and such a drug store ! The street 
 leading from the hotel is wide, well paved, (and the only 
 paved street,) and at its terminus is an old fort, command- 
 ing a fine sweep of the bay, but chiefly used as a " cala- 
 boose." The houses are principally constructed of reeds 
 and mud, no sash or glass, the roofs of straw. Of course.
 
 102 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS.^ 
 
 in these tropical towns,- there is no need of chimneys. 
 Crosses are plastered all around the houses, on the doors 
 and gates, and on all the public buildings. No order or 
 regularity is observed in laying out the streets, which, 
 however, are very cleanly ; not owing to the energy of the 
 inhabitants, but to natural causes ; for through many of 
 the streets flows clear spring water. I noticed a large 
 number of buzzards walking and flying about the town, 
 and I supposed they were the public scavengers. 
 
 Some fine cocoanut trees were standing about the place, 
 and I noticed, what appealed remarkable to me, cocoanuts 
 fully ripe, some just budding, and others nearly matured, 
 all on the same tree, which grew to about forty feet in height, 
 with no branches, except at the extreme top, where the 
 fruit clusters. The natives are of a dark complexion, re- 
 sembling our mulattoes. They appeared civil, social, and 
 fond of strangers. The majority of them were sadly de- 
 ficient in intellectual acquirements. The soldiers parad- 
 ing about the streets, some of them without boots or shoes, 
 looked not unlike Falstaff's guard. Just in front of the 
 fort I enjoyed a fine bath in the ocean every day that I 
 remained here. The rocks were so worn by the repeated 
 washings of the tide, that in some places they formed ex- 
 cellent substitutes for bathing tubs ; and I had capital 
 sport in watching the tide coming in and dashing its briny 
 spray over me. These repeated salt water baths invigor-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 103 
 
 ated me, and exercised a sanative influence upon my sys- 
 tem, so that 1 felt inclined for another venture in the wilds 
 of California. 
 
 As I remarked, the hotels were miserably conducted ; 
 so several of us agreed to enter the best looking house we 
 came across, and ask for accommodations until our ship 
 was ready to set sail. Unfortunately, I was chosen spokes- 
 man. Scarce a word of Spanish could any of our party 
 speak or understand. In we went, bowing and scraping — 
 so did the pretty signoritas. I talked Indian, Greek and 
 Chinese, I thought, but not a word that I uttered could 
 the ladies understand. Then the rest made an unsuccess- 
 ful attempt, until finally the whole party burst out laugh- 
 ing, and I really believe this was the best thing for us ; 
 for we soon felt convinced our Mexican friends were wil- 
 ling to accommodate us, when assured we were respect- 
 able Americans. I succeeded in telling our hostess that 
 we wanted supper, for which wo would willingly pay a 
 liberal price ; our object being to escape the crowd of 
 travelers daily arriving — as Acapulco was the most con- 
 venient landing place for all steamers and sailing vessels 
 bound to or from California via Panama. 
 
 We always slept aboard the ship, and next morning I 
 invited a particular friend, who could speak the Spanish 
 language fluently, to accompany our party to breakfast, at 
 our private hotel. He did so, and told us that the family
 
 104 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 "had never entertained strangers, but as they supposed the 
 hotels were crowded, and we appeared to be gentlemen, 
 and rather liked our manners, they were glad to entertain 
 us" Obliging as we found our Mexican friends, they were 
 nevertheless exorbitant in their charges. "We were satis- 
 fied, however, and, I doubt not, had the bestfare the place 
 could afford. Our meals consisted of sweetened bread, 
 (no butter,) onions, tomatoes, eggs and coffee ; a strange 
 medley, but we relished it. Our captain having completed 
 his arrangements — those of our passengers who had de- 
 sired to be landed here having started for Vera Cruz — 
 notice was given the remaining passengers " to come 
 aboard," and on Friday, August 30th, we hoisted anchor, 
 spread the sails to the breeze, and headed for Panama; 
 but we had scarcely lost sight of land, before some of the 
 passengers entreated the captain to steer for Realajo, Cen- 
 tral America* 
 
 As the port charges always amount to considerable, 
 those passengers who preferred stopping at Acapulco and 
 Realajo agreed to pay the expenses ; — hence, the captain 
 acquiesced. It was of little consequence to me where we 
 stopped, for I was only journeying for the benefit of my 
 health. 
 
 Of all the terriflSc squalls and storms that I had ever 
 experienced, this sail from Acapulco to Realajo surpassed 
 them all ; but a kind Providence protected us, and we
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 105 
 
 safely anchored about six miles from Realajo, (which is 
 as near as vessels can approach,) on Tuesday, Sept. 17th. 
 I noticed a few miles from our anchorage, a burning vol- 
 cano. On Wednesday I jumped into a dug-out, the half- 
 clad oarsmen gave the signal, lazily bent to their oars, 
 and we slowly lounded towards the village. This "was 
 the rainy season, and every now and then we received a 
 " fine ducking," which seemed to delight the natives, but 
 was not so agreeable to their passengers. On our way I 
 observed, standing on the shore, unconcerned and heed- 
 less of shouts, a fine specimen of the Iguana, of a light 
 green color and about a yard long, being nothing more 
 than a gigantic lizard. At length we reached the land- 
 ing, in front of which was a row of one storied, dilapida- 
 ted buildings in which were the quarters of the soldiers, 
 and also the custom house. The streets were very muddy, 
 and the little children, who were playing in them, enjoy- 
 ing the frequent showers, (and I may say, the plentiful 
 supply of mud,) were naked ; and I was told children are 
 allowed 1o run about until their sixth year without a pai-- 
 ticle of clothing upon them. As I walked along I thought 
 I perceived a fine apple orchard, but when I approached 
 it, I found it was an orange grove, The houses are built 
 of reeds and mud, with the exception of a few stone 
 edificef3, which have the appearance of having stood 
 for centuries. The religion is Roman Catholic. Fruits 
 5*
 
 106 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 were cheap and abundant, and board and lodging quite 
 reasonable. 
 
 Most of the fencing about this place was formed of the 
 Cactus plant, some of which were twenty feet in height. 
 I remained ashore that night, and must give the numerous 
 gnats, musquitoes, lizards and roaches the credit of being 
 the only industrious inhabitants in the country. The cap- 
 tain left for the city of Leon, the capital of the State, in 
 search of canvas, as we lost our " main sail" in one of 
 the severe gales which we encountered on our voyage here. 
 Every passenger but myself deserted our vessel and cross- 
 ed the country, bound for the United States, 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 OFF AGAIN— BOUND FOE CALIFORNIA— A GUNNING EXPE- 
 DITION, 
 On Friday, November 8th, 1850, the captain of the 
 staunch old brig, Ann and Julia, came aboard, and declar- 
 ed his determination to set sail for San Francisco, as the 
 intelligence he received from Panama would not warrant 
 his going there, particularly as all the passengers but my- 
 self had left the vessel, and I was by no means anxious 
 to sail for Panama, although I had paid my passage thith- 
 er. So "man the windlass" was ordered, and up came the 
 anchor accompanied by the peculiar singing of the crew.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 107 
 
 A fine breeze prevailing, the sails which had lain idle 
 for several weeks were unfurled to the winds, and we 
 headed for the land of gold. Being the only cabin pas- 
 senger, I enjoyed plenty of state-room accommodations, 
 of which I was debarred on my downward voyage. 
 
 The people of Guatemala are, like all other persons 
 living in the tropical climes, wanting in energy, enterprise 
 and " goaheadativeness." I sometimes wondered how 
 the numerous monkeys could be so nimble and active, for 
 in all my travels, I have rarely met with a more indolent 
 set of beings than the natives of Central America. Al- 
 though their land is of the richest quality, admirably 
 adapted for agricultural purposes, they are too lazy to 
 till the soil, allowing nature to produce spontaneously 
 their crops of sugar, &c., &c. 
 
 During my stay at Realajo, a vessel arrived there for 
 the purpose of procuring a cargo of sugar to take back. 
 to California, but not a pound could be obtained. The 
 natives never think of " laying up for a rainy day," so the 
 vessel returned with a cargo of limes, cigars, &c. Ci- 
 gars of very superior quality were sold at that time for 
 only $4 per 1,000, but it required considerable persuasion 
 to induce the natives to make up a sufficient supply. Hor- 
 ses could be bought or hired at a very low rate, the own- 
 ers caring more for the gaudily ornamented saddle and 
 bridle, than for the fine animals they embellished, I was
 
 108 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 oflFered a sprightly, fine appearing horse for twenty-five 
 dollars. 
 
 Poultry was abundant. Turtles were caught in large 
 numbers along the sea-shore ; the eggs were eaten raw by 
 the natives with much gusto, but to me they tasted like 
 castor oil. 
 
 Central America, settled by New Englanders, would 
 become an important country, and yet there would be 
 danger of even the enterprising Yankees becoming ener- 
 vated by the warm climate. 
 
 On Friday, December 13th, we anchored in the beauti- 
 ful bay of San Francisco, after a pleasant voyage. I was 
 much surprised (although I had anticipated great and im- 
 portant changes,) at the wonderful progress that had been 
 made in the improvements throughout the whole city 
 during my absence. Streets widened and planked, ele- 
 gant buildings erected, fine, substantial and commodious 
 wharves, everything in fact wearing an aspect of comfort 
 and prosperity. 
 
 On Friday, December 20th, I took passage on board 
 I he pretty little stern-wGeel steamer, Jenny Lind, bound 
 for Nicholaus. A marked difference was observable now 
 from when I first started for the mines. Then the roads 
 were scarcely perceptible ; no accommodations by the 
 wayside, and the disappointments and hardships of a 
 pioneer's life, were cruel and severe. But it gives me
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 109 
 
 pleasure to record, that the hardest part of my life in Cal- 
 ifornia had passed by ; that I can now give some of the 
 sunshine of a miner's life, and let the shadows be classed 
 among the " things that were." 
 
 The passengers on board the steamer were social and 
 agreeable ; and after a fine supper, we puffed our Havanas, 
 and kept up a jovial and interesting conversation until the 
 " small hours " of morning admonished us to retire to the 
 comfortable berths provided for us. 
 
 Saturday, December 21st. After breakfast we promen- 
 aded the upper decks, and contrasted our present mode of 
 traveling and its attendant comfort, with that of a year 
 previous. But look ! the bell of the engineer is sounded, 
 the steam is let off, the wheels cease revolving, a plank is 
 pushed out, a passenger steps ashore — we have reached 
 the great iown of Nicholaus. The "good little Jenny" 
 proceeded on her way, and I marched off to the St. Charles 
 
 Hotel, which was conducted by my friend W , with 
 
 whom I had been connected in a similar business in San 
 Francisco. Of course mutual congratulations were ex- 
 changed and the best room in the house was placed at my 
 disposal, and that night for the first time in many months, 
 I slept on a bed ! 
 
 The streams and marshes contiguous to Nicholaus, were 
 frequented by thousands and thousands of ducks and geese, 
 and friend W expressed a wish to procure some of
 
 110 SKKTCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 them for his Christmas dinner. Major A , formerly of 
 
 the New York militia, had boasted of being an excellent 
 shot, and solicited my company on a gunning expedition, 
 feeling sure that he could kill as many wild fowls as wculd 
 answer for several dinners. 
 
 So W provided me with a double barrelled gun and 
 
 plenty of ammunition, and on Tuesday, December 24th, the 
 
 two sportsmen jumped into friend W -s wagon, and 
 
 away we went over the prairie, until we came to a stream, 
 beyond which were the coveted objects of our ride ; In 
 plunged our swift chargers, but, as ill-luck would have it, 
 the traces snapped asunder, and we were compelled to 
 jump into the stream, and assist in getting out the wagon. 
 
 We waived a true military salute to W as he whip- 
 ped up his horses, and left for the hotel; and away we 
 marched until the major ordered a halt ! " hold still, keep 
 quiet, softly ; you take to the right of that creek, and I 
 will head them oflf." 
 
 Now, I had about as much experience in duck and goose 
 shooting, as I have in harpooning a whale, but I obeyed 
 orders ; observing hundreds and hundreds of wild game fly- 
 ing around and above me, but like a brave warrior, I reserv- 
 ed my fire until I could rake several at a single shot. But 
 hark! I hear the gallant major firing- -bang, bang, away flew 
 the geese and ducks; then they would alight at a little dis- 
 tance. But this was too much for my patience, it would not
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. lU 
 
 do for Major A to kill all the birds ; so I concluded I 
 
 "would fire at the first bird that ofi'ered a good chance, 
 without waiting to inoio them doxon ; but see there what a 
 fine shot — a beautiful duck lazily swimming in the creek 
 just beyond me. I raised my gun, took deliberate aim — 
 and fired ! 1 shot him, but just as I reached over the bank 
 to secure my prize, up he flew — he was a diver ! 
 
 Bang, bang, bang, the Major was sending forth a perfect 
 ^^ feu de joie^^ certainly he must be bagging the game fast, 
 I could see his tall slender form away over the marsh : now 
 stooping, then erect, again cautiously approaching the now 
 frightened birds ; and here I had only fired once, and that a 
 dead shot ; but softly, look ! is not that a crane to the left of 
 me ? I threw myself upon the ground, crawled like an In- 
 dian or an experienced hunter, slowly and cautiously, until 
 I came within gunshot ; then raised my double-barrelled gun, 
 aimed, and fired ! I looked up,-I saw the crane still standing. 
 I felt sure I had killed it, although I scarcely remember 
 whether I involuntarily closed my eyes, or that the heavy 
 charge in the gun " kicked ; " at any rate up I sprang, (I 
 could see the Major standing off watching me,) ran to my 
 prize, and what think you I shot at ? The skull of a 
 horse that had bleached in the sun ! (The reader must 
 know I am short sighted.) 
 
 Thus far I had fired two shots, and hit — the wind. The 
 Major had fired at least a dozen rounds, how many he had
 
 112 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 killed I could not yet learn, but I supposed he had secured 
 several plump birds for the dinner. " Look out ! there's 
 your chance, take gook aim at that flock of birds ! " The 
 Major was giving command. On they came. I raised my 
 gun, fired at random, (satisfied it was unnecessary to take 
 aim,) and killed — none ! 
 
 By this time that excellent marksman (at least he 
 boasted that he was,) and chief oflScer of the day — the 
 Major — approached me, and inquired : 
 
 " How many did you shoot 1 " 
 
 "Not one," I replied. " How many did you bag Major 1 " 
 
 " Why, the powder is good for nothing — it has no 
 strength ; for although I made the feathers fly every time 
 I fired, not one bird fell." 
 
 This was too much for my risibles. I roared out with 
 laughter, but still the Major declared " that if the powder 
 had been good, he would have brought down lots of game." 
 ' The day was nearly spent, and we had no birds secured 
 for dinner. We sat down upon the green grass by a small 
 stream, coursing along as quietly as the numerous ducks 
 that were alighting and swimming near us, and I succeed- 
 ed in getting my friend to admit that he and I were no 
 marksmen. " But," said he, " it will not do to return 
 without any game ; we must make another trial, and if we 
 fail, the powder must bear the blame. 
 
 We examined our guns — all right. Started oS^ to-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 113 
 
 gether, and* came back to the creek without a single bird ; 
 and so we gave up in despair, and surrendered with as 
 good grace as possible. Just as the sun was sinking 
 behind the lofty range of mountains, just then two expe- 
 rienced hunters might have been seen entering the great 
 city of Nicholaus, with excellent guns and ammunition 
 thrown across their shoulders, but not a bird dangling 
 from their persons. 
 
 On nearing the hotel we saw suspended from the bal- 
 cony a string of birds, and we suspected our kind host 
 had little confidence in our success. We reached the ho- 
 tel ; " here they come," saluted us, and when they learn- 
 ed the result, the very walls re-echoed with peals of 
 laughter. The Major insisted that the good-for-nothing 
 powder was damp, that although it made the feathers fly, 
 it was not strong enough to carry shot. 
 
 "We had to submit to any amount of quizzing, and the 
 landlord remarked, " it occurred to me that possibly 
 you might be unsuccessful, so I purchased a lot of birds 
 to make sure of a supply fur Christmas." 
 
 December 25th. Our Christmas dinner passed off pleas- 
 antly, the tables were arranged with a nicety worthy of a 
 steamboat entertainment. Of course, our unsuccessful 
 gunning expedition served as a fund of merriment to all 
 who had the pleasure of dining at the St. Charles. 
 
 That night, I announced my determination of leaving
 
 114 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 for the mines, for I was fearful my present luxurious style 
 of living, would unfit me for the rough life of a miner. 
 The Major and an old gentleman present expressed a wil- 
 lingness to accompany me, so we fixed upon the next day 
 for starting. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 OFF FOR THE MINES— INCIDENTS ALONG THE ROAD— ARRI- 
 VAL AT GRASS VALLEY— THE DIGGER INDIANS— DISCOV- 
 ERY OP GOLD-BEARING QUARTZ, &c., &c. 
 
 Thursday, December 26th, 1851. "Come old gentle- 
 man, 'tis time we were off"." " Why, the wagon must be 
 greased, the oxen haven't fed, and I thinli you young men 
 had better lend a hand, than stand around giving orders." 
 
 Now, so far as I was concerned, I objected to the slow 
 travel of an ox team, and the more the old man worried 
 about his sleek, but lazy " critters," the less disposed his 
 "fast nags" appeared to be yoked to a wagon. I had 
 " seen the elephant," to use a California expression, but my 
 " compagnons de voyage" had never been to the mines ; 
 and to hear them talk ! They intended to introduce new 
 customs among the miners, and they were going to live 
 like gentlemen should. However, I must give the Major 
 the credit of carrying out his intentions of living comfort-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 115 
 
 ably, At last " all were aboard," the long lash of the 
 whip was applied to the oxen, and off they — walked ! 
 My acquaintances were supplied with an abundance of 
 cooking utensils, bedding, et cetera, which were carefully 
 packed in the covered wagon. I had very little baggage, 
 intending to purchase where I located whatever mining 
 and cooking utensils I might require; for I knew that the 
 country was more thickly settled, and the opportunities 
 for purchasing the comforts of life much greater, than 
 when I made my first trip to the mines. 
 
 " Our " slow but sure line" was so wearisome to me, 
 that I gladly took the whip, at the request of the owner, 
 to have my turn at driving. I do not remember ever 
 before having had the honor of driving a " coach and 
 two," so I applied the lash, hallooed gee-woah-gee, until 
 I frightened the heretofore gentle beasts, and off they 
 trotted, making excellent time, and I do not know where 
 my " lively team' would have brought up, had not the 
 owner ran to my aid, ordered a halt, and declined my 
 services in future as driver. Sometimes we walked, then 
 rode, and occasionally halted to rest in the shade ; for we 
 could easily overtake the team, and I felt half inclined to 
 travel on alone. 
 
 We expected to reach Finley's Ranch before dusk, but 
 the "blooded stock" took their own time, and the owner 
 of them was so accustomed to that mode of traveling,
 
 116 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 that he was as composed as a philosopher, by which name 
 I shall hereafter designate him. We were just in sight 
 of the ranch, and congratulated ourselves on our good for- 
 tune, when I looked ahead, and saw the philosopher ap- 
 plying the lash much more vigorously than even I had 
 done ; and 1 asked the major what could be the matter ? 
 We ran up, and found the wagon had stalled ; the wheels 
 were sunk to the hubs in the mud, and the poor oxen were 
 striving their best to pull ahead ; but snap, crack went 
 the traces, off scampered the oxen, leaving the wagon in 
 the mud. However, there was no use fretting about our 
 ill-luck ; for my part, I enjoyed the sport, but the temper 
 of the philosopher was sorely tried. The best we could do 
 was to drive the oxen into the corral, and let the wagon 
 and cargo remain on the road. 
 
 Friday, December 27th. Arose early in the morning, 
 settled bill at the tavern, looked up the oxen, repaired the 
 damage to the wagon and gearing, and started off again 
 in fine humor, the philosopher alternately singing and 
 whistling, pronounced the road in " an awful condi- 
 tion" — " hard upon his stock." At night we stopped at 
 " the round tent," which happened to be a square boarded 
 house. I did not particularly admire the location, the 
 landlord, or his accommodations, 
 
 Saturday, December 28th. '' Hitched up" our fast team 
 about 4 P. M., and started forward. The road was very
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 117 
 
 rough, and the slow motion ot our team suited very well 
 DOW. Reached the " Zinc House," delightfullj' situated 
 near never-failing streams ; and while we washed our fa- 
 ces and enjoyed a rest in the welcome shade, our break- 
 fast was prepared, and when the word was given, we lost 
 no time in doing ample justice to the excellent repast 
 mine host had spread before us. Bidding the landlord the 
 " top of the morning," we followed after our patient and 
 sure-footed oxen, and reached " Rough and Ready" dur- 
 ing the afternoon ; took a bird's eye view of the rough, 
 but not ready looking place, and proceeded on until night 
 overtook us, when we halted at the " Madison House," a 
 rough, ill-shaped log hut, the meanest public house on 
 the road. 
 
 Sunday, December 29th. The weather continued clear 
 and pleasant, and it always appeared to me, that every- 
 thing in nature assumed a more lovely and cheerful ap- 
 pearance on the Sabbath than on any other day of the week. 
 I regretted that my peculiar life compelled me to travel on 
 this day, which all are commanded to keep holy ; but at 
 that early period in the history of California, particularly at 
 the mines, very few had opportunities of properly observ- 
 ing the Sabbath. We reached Grass Valley, Nevada Co., 
 during the morning, and here I remained for many months, 
 until, in fact, I bade a farewell — a long farewell to the 
 Golden State.
 
 118 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 Wednesday, January 1st, 1851. Here commences an- 
 other year. I had been so many months in California that 
 I became familiar with the hard life of a miner, and as I 
 now lived much more comfortably than I had been previ- 
 ously accustomed to, I felt satisfied and contented. 
 
 The Major, the philosopher and myself worked on our 
 own account. I still adhered to my determination not to 
 join in partnership with any one, thus to avoid disputes 
 and difficulties. 
 
 There were several encampments around here of native 
 Indians, (the Digger tribe ;) and one day, when working 
 alone, some distance from my cabin, I was Jwnored with a 
 visit from several squaws, nearly every one of whom had 
 a " papoose" strapped to her back. They were out hunt- 
 ing and digging wild onions and tender roots, which grew 
 there ; and they laughed lieartily at my incessant digging 
 and washing dirt, and signified that Indian no work, but 
 " American mucb work, ugh," Their faces were besmear-* 
 ed with tar, which I was informed indicated the decease 
 of a friend or relative. 
 
 Whilst I enjoyed a laugh at their expense, they were 
 equally merry at the appearance I presented, so we were 
 all pleased. Finally they went off, and I could hear them 
 laughing at the idea of a man working and earning his 
 support " by the sweat of his brow." 
 
 During this month, I paid occasional visits to Nevada
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 119 
 
 and Eough and Ready, each distant about four miles from 
 Grass Valley. Nevada improved rapidly, and I could 
 hardly recognize the place where I had lived and enjoy- 
 ed the friendship of many choice spirits. Rough and 
 Ready improved slowly, as her mines were not considered 
 very " rich." 
 
 Thursday, January 30th. Five or six young men and 
 myself agreed to take a short walk through the woods, 
 ostensibly for "prospecting," but in reality to visit 
 " Capt." Wemah's Indian camp. Our " prospecting 
 amounted to the figure 0," but our visit to the Indians 
 was interesting and highly gratifying. Their encampment 
 was located in a lovely valley, through which ran a never- 
 failing stream. Their council house was in the centre of 
 the camp ; around it W'ere the wigwams, constructed of 
 bark, each having a hole in the centre of the roof, through 
 which issued the smoke from the fire beneath. 
 
 The entrance to their palatial mansions was an aper- 
 ture just large enough to admit one person at a time in 
 a stooping posture. On a large rock I noticed several 
 squaws — quite pretty and of fine figure, nearly nude, 
 pounding acorns, out of which they make soup and hread. 
 
 The ladies were courteous and affable, and were pleas- 
 ed with our visit, but apparently surprised at receiving 
 so much attention from us. When the acorns are fully 
 ripe, the squaws saunter forth, collect immense quantities,
 
 120 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 place them in their storehouse, and when needed, pound 
 them to a coarse powder, which they prepare in a proper 
 manner for the lazy chiefs. 
 
 The chiefs and braves never work, but spend their time 
 in hunting and manufacturing ornaments. Whenever the 
 squaws go out after roots and vegetables they are always 
 accompanied by a brave, as a " guard of honor." I often 
 wished that I could converse with them. The majority 
 of the Indiaus about Grass Valley were friendly to the 
 " whites ;" others were disposed for war — war to exter- 
 mination. 
 
 February, 1851. Directly opposite to my cabin was a 
 hill seldom visited, except by an occasional miner in search 
 of fire wood. By the merest chance gold-bearing quartz 
 was discovered upon its summit. The report flew rapidly, 
 and out of that discovery grew the important quartz min- 
 ing, which revived the prospects of Grass Valley, and 
 turned the attention of hundreds to quartz digging. 
 
 The hill was appropriately named Gold hill. Laws 
 were established regulating the amount of feet each man 
 could hold and work. A recorder was elected, and the 
 hill was soon alive with men digging deep down in search 
 of the quartz ledge — some of course were more fortunate 
 than others. I have seen large quantities of rich speci- 
 mens of quartz, thoroughly injected with bright, spark- 
 ling gold.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 121 
 
 The plan of working was, first to dig up and cast away 
 the surface dirt, and then a " well-like hole" was com- 
 menced, a windlass erected, a rope and bucket brought 
 into requisition, and down, down, sometimes to the depth 
 of forty and fifty feet, men would dig in search of a ledge, 
 and if found, they would carefully break up the rock, carry 
 it to their cabins, pound up the stone, and pocket the gold. 
 
 Saturday, February 22. I removed to Centerville, the 
 main portion of Grass Valley, and rented a log cabin — 
 one room, four dollars a month. My bedstead was con- 
 structed of poles and shingles, on the top of which I threw 
 pine twigs, and then spread my blanket, and on this bed I 
 slept for many a night as soundly and comfortably as I had 
 ever done in my life. 
 
 Our town was fast improving; well furnished stores were 
 established, hotels that ofi"ered comfortable quarters for 
 travelers, a saw-mill was in active operation, and there were 
 unmistakable evidences of growing wealth and prosperity. 
 Among our inhabitants were some respectable women, 
 and many intelligent and enterprising men. Every one 
 felt, or ought to have felt, satisfied and good humored with 
 himself and all around him.
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 GKASS VALLEY, NEVADA COUNTY— QUAKTZ MINING— SPEC- 
 ULATORS— RAVINE MINING— WILD ANIMALS— THE WEATH- 
 ER, Ac, &c. 
 Wednesday, March \2lJi, 1851. A meeting of all who 
 felt interested was held in my cabin, for the purpose of 
 making laws for the government of a Hill, of which a party 
 of friends had taken possession a day or two previously. As 
 usual at all public meetings, the resolutions first offered 
 were unanimously adopted. The Hill was named Cardin- 
 al, and myself elected Recorder, My duty was to record 
 the name of every claim holder, for which I received one 
 dollar each, and fifty cents for a transfer. A large num- 
 ber of claims were recorded, and had the Hill proved as 
 rich in auriferous deposits as its opposite neighbor, Gold 
 Hill, I should have realized many hundred dollars by sim- 
 ply writing down names in a book. 
 
 I was often amused by parties from San Francisco, call- 
 ing on me as the " executive officer" of Cardinal Hill, 
 to locate claims for them ; they supposing that by virtue 
 of my office. I could tell at a glance where the gold was 
 secreted. Each claim-holder was entitled to 30 by 60 feet 
 of ground, divided oflf by stakes driven into the four corners 
 of the lot, with one in the centre, designating the number of
 
 SKETCnES OF TRAVELS. 123 
 
 the lot. This wasi ts lock and key, for the miners respected 
 the laws enacted by their own fraternity. Whilst I lived 
 there, Cardinal Hill was not considered the best place to 
 invest nioney and labor, although there were certain indi- 
 cations of the existence of gold. 
 
 The reports from Gold Hill were exceedingly encoura- 
 ging, and unprincipled speculators visited our locality to 
 purchase quartz specimens, took them to other places, 
 and by false representations, would sometimes succeed 
 in selling mining lots. Others, I was informed, would 
 send specimens to the eastern cities, form companies, sell 
 stock, pocket the proceeds of their iniquity, and that end- 
 ed their connection with their reputed " rich diggings." 
 
 Dishonest tricks very rarely could be played off upon 
 real bona-fide miners. But I heard of a game success- 
 fully practised upon new comers, which resulted, however, 
 entirely different from what was intended or desired. — 
 Two men had been working their claim along side of a 
 ravine for some time without the slightest prospect of suc- 
 cess, and they conceived the idea of "making it pay" the 
 first opportunity that presented. Some men who had just 
 arrived at the mines, happening to pass this claim, ask- 
 ed the usual questions about mines and mining, and were 
 answered that the best plan was to purchase a claim, and 
 then they could commence work at once, for time was mo- 
 ney in California. They requested the strangers to call
 
 124 SKETCHES OF TRAVKLS. 
 
 in the morning to have a further talk. After they left, the 
 chaps put about an ounce of gold dust into the bottom of 
 the pit they were digging, and when the next day came 
 round, and with it the strangers, the men who knew there 
 was no gold to be found but what they had placed there, 
 spoke of their claim as yielding rich returns, and as an evi- 
 dence of it they would pan out just a shovel full of dirt, and 
 they might judge for themselves. The result surprised 
 and excited the strangers ; they bought the claim for two 
 hundred dollars, threw off their coats, rolled up their 
 sleeves, and went to work, encouraged by bright anticipa- 
 tions and joyful hopes ; but as often as they panned out, 
 so often were they doomed to disappointment, until at last 
 they suspected they "were sold;" but agreed to work on 
 and dig deeper. After working nearly a week longer, the 
 earth assumed a different color; they panned out once 
 more, and to their infinite joy, found they had " struck a 
 rich vein," and after all, made considerable gain upon 
 their purchase, and the laugh was turned on the other side. 
 A friend left in my care a large iron mortar, about three 
 feet high, which I found very useful, as it assisted me 
 materially in " pocketing" the gold. I had the mortar 
 placed in a solid block of wood, and a pole attached to the 
 handle of the pestle, which answered as an excellent lever. 
 Then I bought up all the gold-bearing quartz I could 
 procure, and now pounded my rocks with comparative ease
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 125 
 
 to a coarse powder. At evening I would pan this out 
 in a tub nearly filled with water, and occasionally made 
 considerable profit by my speculations. But I too had 
 my losses. On one occasion I purchased two cart-loads 
 of stone, for which I paid one hundred and twenty-five 
 dollars. I was some time engaged in pounding up this 
 lot, and even before I had finished, I knew it was a 
 losing bargain ; but I continued to purchase any lots 
 that were ofi"ered, and sometimes the yield was im- 
 mense. A great many men preferred the river and the 
 dry diggings. Mining implements had undergone a vast 
 improvement since the days of my first experience in min- 
 ing. Then we used a rocker or cradle ; now the " long- 
 tom" was introduced, by which twenty times as much dirt 
 could be washed out. A long-tom is a trough about six- 
 teen feet long, with a perforated sheet of iron inserted at 
 one end ; water is let on, and dirt thrown in, which it 
 is only necessary to stir up and throw out the stones. 
 It was a strange sight to see a hundred men working in 
 pits, some digging, some throwing up the mud and stones, 
 others shoveling it into the box, and others again stirring 
 up the mass and throwing out the rocks. The noise was 
 so great that one could scarcely hear any thing beside the 
 incessant rattle, rattle, rattle. Men worked faithfully, 
 constantly and expeditiously. At night, around the place 
 where hundreds had been working, splashing and rattling
 
 126 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 away during the day, all was still and quiet. Nothing 
 could be heard but the harsh unpleasant howl of the ma- 
 ny "kiota," a species of prairie wolf, that always swarm- 
 ed around the village at night in search of food. These 
 dog-shaped animals were as cowardly as they were treach- 
 erous ; one person could frighten off a drove of them, and 
 I frequently heard the report of a gun fired off among 
 them. The kiotas burrow after dead bodies like the hyena, 
 and they congregate at night wherever they can find 
 cast-off meat, carrion, &c. 
 
 For a novelty we had an occasional sprinkling of snow 
 during the last three days of March ; but when April 
 made its bow, the snow vanished. No ice formed during 
 the past winter, and the citizejis of San Francisco and 
 Sacramento were sadly put to it for that luxury, until some 
 shrewd, enterprising men brought snow from the moun- 
 tains, and furnished them with it at almost fabulous pri- 
 ces. I believe the first ice that was brought to California 
 was from Sitka, a Russian possession, in the good old ship 
 Flavins, the same vessel I have so often referred to — 
 the same in which I had sailed to California.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 GRASS VALLEY— NEVADA COUNTY— A GRAND CONCERT- 
 MINES AND MINING. 
 
 April, 1851. I find many pleasing reminiscences con- 
 nected with my residence in Grass Valley, but none that 
 afforded me greater pleasure than the frequent re-unions 
 with several of my acquaintances after the onerous duties of 
 the day were over. We met at one or the other's cabin, 
 and sang the songs that were familiar to us prior to our 
 residence in California. 
 
 The attractive power of music was strikingly exempli- 
 fied in the large number of persons who congregated 
 around us. The old-fashioned, simple plaintive tunes, such 
 as "Auld Lang Syne," " Good-bye," " Coming thro' the 
 Rye," " John Anderson," &c., &c., were always called for, 
 and doubtless, these songs would bring to mind other days, 
 other scenes, and other friends. Even the most boisterous, 
 the most careless and indifi'erent, would stop to listen to 
 these, (I am sorry to say, now unfashionable songs,) and 
 occasionally wipe away an unbidden tear. 
 
 Our singing created a strong friendship among the half 
 dozen young men who thus often met together, and as the 
 majority of us performed upon some musical instrument, 
 to the possession of this accomplishment, I attribute in a
 
 128 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS."' 
 
 great measure, the extensive and valued acquaintance I 
 enjoyed in California. 
 
 One evening, when singing merrily, thus dispelling 
 gloom and sadness, and forgetful of any deprivation we 
 may have labored under, some one proposed giving a 
 a concert for the benefit of the landlord of the " Magno- 
 lia," which met the approval of all, and we very soon 
 made out a famous programme. As there was no 
 printing office in our midst, one of the party being a good 
 penman, wrote out several programmes on sheets of pa- 
 per. We posted them on the trees, houses and fences, 
 and had the satisfaction of knowing that the promised 
 concert gave rise to considerable excitement. Those not 
 in the secret inquired, " Who are they 1" We preserved 
 our incognito. Our bills were headed " Grand Vocal and 
 Instrumental Concert by the Grass Valley Minstrels. 
 Cards of admission only 50 cents. The choicest gems 
 from the most popular operas will be performed, and the 
 most attractive Ethiopian songs will be introduced, de- 
 lineating high life among the Southern Negroes." We 
 issued complimentary tickets to every female living in and 
 around our village. Our troupe consisted of Mr. C. and 
 brother, professional musicians ; Dr. D., of Maine ; Dr. C, 
 of New Orleans ; Mr. H., formerly a head clerk in a large 
 banking house; Mr. T., a dentist, formerly from Boston, 
 and myself. Our ushers were gentlemen who had once
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 129 
 
 counted thousands as their own. Each one connected 
 with the affair anticipated fine sport, and at the same time 
 determined to impart his joyful feelings to the audience. 
 On Monday evening, April 7th, the grand concert took 
 place. Long before the curtain rose the house was crowd- 
 ed- The ushers, with their kids and fancy neck-ties, 
 were busy showing the eager crowd seats, and when the 
 bell sounded for the performers to make their bow to the 
 audience, those of us who had never yet appeared " upon 
 any stage," began to feel a " little queer," when the Di- 
 rector called out — " Come, gentlemen, march in." Now it 
 fell to ray lot to lead the way, and about the third step I 
 tripped and fell, two or three at my back tumbled over me, 
 and this little incident, not set down in the bills, '' brought 
 down the house." Our faces were painted the color of 
 Mason's challenge blacking, and well for me they were, 
 or my cheeks would have exhibited a scarlet blush. Tlie 
 leader tapped — the overture commenced — the applause 
 was great; but I hardly know whether it was called 
 forth by our Jine music, or the grotesque appearance we 
 presented. 
 
 The next piece was a solo, performed by myself on the 
 flute. The third piece was a song, with full orchestral 
 accompaniments. This was delightfully received. The 
 appreciative audience were in extacies ; but when the com- 
 medians were introduced, the applause was terrific. I 
 6*
 
 130 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 began to weary of the exhibition we were making of our- 
 selves, and certainly did not shed tears when the first part 
 was concluded and we adjourned to our private room. — 
 The landlord was in the best humor ; our every want was 
 anticipated ; he well knew that a couple of hundred dol- 
 lars would soon be handed to him. But hark ! the bell 
 rings. The leader pronounced the instruments in tune. 
 Forward ! The curtain rose — the audience applauded. 
 We took our seats, but somehow or other our insruments 
 accorded better in the "green room" than on the stage; 
 but we played away, sang and talked nonsense to the in- 
 finite amusement of the crowd, who were wondering "who 
 those chaps were." The last piece was soon to be played. 
 The leader gave the signal. The violin shrieked ; the 
 guitar was out of tune ; the hideous bones rattled ; the 
 abominable triangle gave forth about as sweet music as a 
 tin-pan, and the flute chimed in. We played away ; the au- 
 dience were charmed; the musicians " got off the track" — 
 one played " Yankee Doodle," another " Hail Colum- 
 bia," and another, ''Oft in the stilly night " — but it matter- 
 ed not, " the steam was up." We fiddled away until the 
 curtain dropped. The concert was over, and we sat down 
 to enjoy rest and a capital supper the landlord had pre- 
 pared for us. Speeches were made. We separated in 
 the best humor with each other and our evening's perform- 
 ance. We sought our cots and slept as soundly as our
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 131 
 
 instruments did lying in the chimney corner. The concert 
 was long talked of. We had numerous invitations to visit 
 neighboring districts ; but it was the first and last concert 
 the Grass Valley Minstrels ever gave. 
 
 Claims were still in demand on Cardinal Hill ; but I sold 
 out my interest in claim No. 4, making a good bargain, and 
 ceased working there, satisfied with the profits derived from 
 the office of Recorder. 
 
 Another hill was seized by a party of miners, and the 
 name of Massachusetts Hill was given to it. I had a claim 
 there also ; but as the ledge of quartz ran very deep, I 
 knew it would be useless for me to hold it, so I sold out 
 at an advance. However, the parties who purchased 
 of me succeeded in getting out about three thousand 
 dollars' worth of gold. 
 
 But there was no hill yet discovered '* so rich" as the 
 appropriately named, Gold Hill. Quartz mills were rap- 
 idly put up, and miners could have their rock crushed 
 for a certain sum, or dispose of it to other parties. The 
 successful quartz mining in our valley brought many 
 strangers amongst us. But ravine mining was not neg- 
 lected. Some of my acquaintances had valuable claims, 
 and none doubted that Grass Valley would continue to 
 prosper and become a prominent place, and I will hereafter 
 describe the village, the county, the inhabitants, and ma- 
 ny "little incidents" that came under my observation.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 POLITICAL SENTIMENTS— A DEMONSTRATION— GRASS VAL- 
 LEY—HER MAGISTRATES. 
 
 Saturday, April 12th, 1851. At this period the Whig 
 and Democratic parties were pitted against each other. 
 Friends of either party brought with them to California 
 their old feelings of devotion and enthusiasm for their fa- 
 vorite candidates and principles, or hatred and prejudice 
 against their opponents. But the skill of an astrologer was 
 not requisite to divine which of the two parties would 
 ultimately succeed. I am free to confess that I was an 
 active " Henry Clay Whig," but my exertions in behalf 
 of that once-powerful party amounted to nothing, for our 
 party invariably came off " second best." But " nihil 
 desperandum" was our watchword. 
 
 An election for county officers was soon to take place, 
 and for the office of sheriff there were several candidates 
 who offered tiieir services for their " country's good." 
 Among them was an illiterate, conceited, and unpopular 
 representative of •' mein faderland," who nominated him- 
 self as a candidate for the high office of sheriff of Grass 
 Valley township. He contended that his invaluable ser- 
 vices in the Texan war of independence entitled him to 
 an election, and yet his name was unknown to those real
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 133 
 
 Texas rangers who lived among ns ; and his own counlry- 
 men (many of whom I knew and esteemed highly) dis- 
 liked him. One thing the would-be warrior possessed, 
 and that was a valuable quartz claim. He was desirous 
 that a " demonstration" should be made in his behalf. A 
 party of lively fellows, always ready for sport, encour- 
 aged the idea. They procured the hotel gong, and sound- 
 ed it so loud that it could be heard above the bells that 
 were ringing ; and when they fired off guns and pistols, 
 DO wonder that a large crowd collected and enquired — 
 "what's up nowl" Nine cheers for the Texas warrior were 
 given with a will. Mein Herr mounted the stump, essay- 
 ed to define his principles, but at almost every word he 
 was greeted with " hip, hip, hurrah !" It was not sur- 
 prising that he appeared delighted to see around him so 
 many friends who could scarcely restrain their cordial 
 sympathetic feelings ! 
 
 He was followed by a Nevada lawyer — hired for the 
 occasion — who praised the candidate to the skies. " For," 
 said he, "if San Francisco has her brave Jack Hays for 
 sheriff, if Sacramento has her gallant Ben McCullough, 
 why cannot Grass Valley have her intrepid, bold, chiv- 
 alric Texan warrior for sheriff, especially as he is the 
 owner of such a fine grey horse !" " Bravo, good, one 
 hundred yells ;" the pistols banged away, the. bells rang, 
 and the gong sent forth most unearthly sounds.
 
 134 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS 
 
 The volunteer candidate was in the happiest humor — 
 who could doubt his election ] He at once sprang to the 
 stump, silence was ordered, (a few persons knew what was 
 in the wind) and invited all his friends to a grand treat at 
 the " Beatty House." A procession was formed, headed by 
 Mein Herr and his Nevada orator, and away they march- 
 ed for the hotel, and toasted and drank, to the election of 
 the Texas warrior, until the night was far spent. 
 
 That " demonstration" cost the volunteer candidate up- 
 wards of two hundred dollars. The election came oflF a 
 few days subsequently, and the warrior received two votes ! 
 Alas ! the uncertainty of politics ! 
 
 Main street was the Broadway of Grass Valley. It was 
 wide, and flanked on either side by comfortable weather- 
 boarded houses. Among them were the principal hotels, 
 saloons and stores, and through it led the direct road to 
 Nevada and Rough and Ready. But Mill street, so nam- 
 ed in consequence of the quartz mills located thereon, 
 was likewise an important street, and a delightful walk 
 led through it to the Indian camp. I do not know that I 
 ever felt more comfortably than when promenading through 
 that street, observing the miners hard at work, the im- 
 provements going on, and enjoying the pure and deli- 
 cious mountain air. 
 
 My acquaintance with the population was extensive, 
 and among them were persons of high social worth, Intel-
 
 SKETCHES OF TUAVELS. 135 
 
 lectual acquirements, and gentlemanly deportment. The 
 chief magistrate of the township was Judge S , for- 
 merly of Boston. He was a man of " infinite jest and ex- 
 quisite fancy." Certainly the best informed lawyer in the 
 village, and before whom most of the " law cases" were 
 tried. I was often amused at the Judge, to see him liv- 
 ing in his old log cabin, preparing with his own hands the 
 substantials for the inner man, sleeping in an almost di- 
 lapidated bed; puffing away at his favorite meerschaum, and 
 entering into fellowship with his numerous acquaintances. 
 No wonder he was always elected to office by a large ma- 
 jority over his competitors. I shall not soon forget the 
 free, happy, delightful hours we spent together. May he 
 long live to enjoy the comforts and pleasures of life. 
 
 Magistrate No. 2 was formerly of Missouri. He was 
 an exceedingly clever and hospitable man, but totally un- 
 qualified for the office to which be was elected by a flat- 
 tering majority. Perhaps he may remember the merry 
 times we had ; perhaps he has not forgotten the marriage 
 of his daughter. How we serenaded him ; how our cheers 
 and congratulations re-echoed through the woods, and how 
 he, in pleasurable excitement, headed a large party of 
 friends, and marched to the Beatty House, " where we had 
 a good time all around." How he mounted the table — 
 clad only in his night garment — and thanked his friends 
 and neighbors for this " unexpected mark of esteem for
 
 136 SKKTCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 himself individually, and for their congratulations upon the 
 happy roarriage of his daughter." 
 
 Justice No. 3 was Mr. E, , also of Missouri. He 
 
 was popular as a man, but totally incapacitated for the 
 office to which he was elected by a handsome majority, 
 
 I have felt very much for poor R when the shrewd, 
 
 fun-provoldng lawyers would call upon " his honor" to 
 explain to the jury the facts of the case, but his honor 
 would sit still, run his fingers through his hair, and say 
 nothing. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 SUNDAY AT THE MINES— ADVICE TO PARENTS— A LECTURE- 
 SKETCH OP SOME OF THE INHABITANTS, &c. 
 
 Sunday, April 27th. As yet no religious associations 
 had been organized in Grass Valley ; but many who had 
 not forgotten their earlier training, met together on Sab- 
 bath evenings, and sang the familiar hymns of " days of 
 yore." The American miners generally abstained from 
 secular work ; they donned their best clothing, read their 
 Bible, looked over their correspondence, and visited ac- 
 quaintances, or enjoyed a walk around the beautifully lo- 
 cated village. 
 
 In this connection, let me advance the suggestion to 
 parents to " train up their children in the way they should
 
 WRETCHES OF TRAVELS. 137 
 
 go." Let me urge upon them to repeat, not only '• Our 
 Father who art in heaven," but those heartfelt, simple 
 hymns, which touch the feelings, and make a lasting im- 
 pression on the heart. No parent knows what will be 
 the future of a child ; no parent knows where a favorite 
 child may roam, or in what clime he may dwell ; but if a 
 mother has taught that child to kneel by her side, and 
 pray to God to protect not only himself, but each member 
 of his family, that prayer is never forgotten — that moth- 
 er's watchfulness is never obliterated from the mind. At 
 some time or other that parental solicitude is remembered, 
 and protects the wanderer. Many who were residing in 
 California, found in their trials great comfort in repeating 
 the prayers of childhood, and experienced a peculiar de- 
 light in singing the hymns which they had sung at home in 
 the Sabbath School. 
 
 We were occasionally favored with a lecture by some 
 of the residents, many of whom were men of talent and 
 education. 
 
 Mr. John A. C , formerly of New York, delivered 
 
 an able and interesting lecture on the evils of intemper- 
 ance. He did not villify and traduce the unfortunate vic- 
 tim of alcoholic stimulants, but he merely pictured, in 
 glowing words and manner, the horrible results of the too 
 free use of that vile stuff which men sometimes " put in 
 their mouths to steal away their brains." The principal
 
 138 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 portion of his auditory were miners, and because he spoke 
 charitably and sympathetically of the poor inebriate, they 
 paid him the most marked attention. I shall have occa- 
 sion to speak of Mr. hereafter. 
 
 Among the physicians resident here, with whom I 
 
 was most intimate, were Dr. , formerly of Ohio ; 
 
 Dr. S. ,from Mississippi, and Dr. , from St. Louis. 
 
 Dr. C was very popular ; associated with the peo- 
 ple, had an extensive practice, and for a while acted as 
 postmaster. I remember on one occasion the Dr. was 
 called to visit a patient at some distance from the village, 
 and he solicited me to act as postmaster during his ab- 
 sence. The mail from the Eastern States was daily ex- 
 pected, and hundreds of men were anxiously waiting the 
 arrival of the stage. Towards the close of the day the 
 rumbling of the wheels was heard — the stage was seen 
 descending the hill — snap, snap, cracked the whip — woa, 
 woa, woa, — the horses were resting in front of the post- 
 office. I seized the package marked Grass Valley, and 
 soon announced to the eager crowd that the mail from the 
 east had arrived ; and to facilitate the distribution, and 
 prevent any unnecessary delay, I would read out the 
 names as they were placed in the package ; of course, this 
 announcement gave great satisfaction, and the new post- 
 master was complimented ; bat my responsibilities ended 
 that night. So I sang out — A. J. Compton — " That's
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 139 
 
 mine, sir;" "Wm. Elder — "Mine, sir;" and so I kept on 
 until I distributed every letter in the bag ; but not one 
 letter did I find directed to myself. 
 
 Doctor No. 2, was friend S , from Mississippi, who 
 
 graduated at the same college with myself — that is no- 
 where ! S had some practice, but was more success- 
 ful in speculating in real estate. The Dr. showed me a 
 daguerreotype of himself he was about to send to his fa- 
 mily, and for the occasion he divested himself of his coat 
 and vest, put a wash-pan under his arm, laid a pick and 
 shovel at his feet — thus giving the impression that he was 
 earning his living by hard work. 
 
 The other M. D., whose name I have forgotten, I re- 
 member as a gentleman of fine personal appearance and 
 courteous manners, and with whom every one must have 
 been pleased. 
 
 Of the merchants, I class Capt. , formerly of 
 
 Brooklyn, No. 1. The captain had left a home in which 
 lie enjoyed all the comforts and luxuries of life ; — he had 
 emigrated to California for what? To satify an uncontroll- 
 able desire for roaming in search of novelty. The cap- 
 tain had left a happy home, where dwelt an afi'ectionate 
 wife and favorite daughter, but he must forsake all, and at 
 an advanced time of life, seek the wilds of California, and 
 engage in the perplexing duties of a merchant's life. 
 Frequently I partook of the captain's hospitality, and
 
 140 SKETCHES OT TRAVELS. 
 
 often before daylight appeared, has he urged me " to 
 come over and take breakfast with him." Many, many 
 happy hours I have spent in his society, and if wishes can 
 do any good, I here tender him ten thousand for his safe 
 return home, and his permanent settlement there in peace 
 and happiness. 
 
 P , from New York, commenced in a small way, but 
 
 by close attention to business, built up a considerable trade. 
 
 E was also from New York. Born in Scotland, 
 
 raised in New York, an orthodox Presbyterian, correct in 
 his habits, generally esteemed, and did a fine business. 
 
 K and L were from Maine, easy, good natur- 
 
 ed fellows — not much experience in merchandising, but 
 still had cheering prospects. 
 
 W was from Canada, an extensive traveler; well 
 
 educated ; did a flourishing business ; minded his own 
 affairs; small in stature, but tough as a Canadian pony. 
 
 While these brief sketches of the inhabitants may not 
 interest all readers, still, there may be some who will find 
 pleasure in reading of their friends and relatives " far off 
 in California," and all may observe how strangely peopled 
 California was; men from every state, bringing with them 
 their peculiar notions and prejudices, and yet the influ- 
 ence of a few moral and intellectual gentlemen kept in 
 check the turbulent spirit that needed only a spark to ig- 
 nite it into a flame.
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 GRASS VALLEY— NEVADA COUNTY— LOCAL MATTERS. 
 
 Thursday, May 1st, 1851. The weather at this time 
 was charming ; not a cloud in the sky above to obscure 
 the effulgent sun; and when men went forth to work 
 at early dawn, the delightful and invigorating atmosphere 
 inspired all with the happiest feelings, and each man 
 hoped that his claim would this day yield up its treasures 
 so abundantly, as to permit him to look forward to a speedy 
 return home. Home ! what happy feelings thrill the 
 inmost soul at the mention of that word. 
 
 Friday, May 2d. Our whig friends held their first 
 meeting, for the purpose of appointing delegates to a 
 county convention to be held at Nevada the ensuing day. 
 The harmony and good feeling which prevailed was grati- 
 fying to the entire assemblage. 
 
 Professor S , formerly of Ohio, delivered a lecture 
 
 upon mining; it puzzled his audience to understand 
 how a man could point out the best place to work, and 
 yet not be enabled to find a profitable claim for himself ! 
 
 The lawyers of our village, whom I knew iatimately, 
 
 were Judge , formerly of St. Louis. A gentleman 
 
 reserved in his general deportment, but was much re- 
 spected, and gracefully submitted to an "emigrant's life" 
 in California.
 
 142 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 Lawyer No. 2 was a clever, social, gentlemanly repre- 
 sentative of Canada. His practice was considerable, and 
 daily increasing. 
 
 Our town constable was one of those quiet, reserved 
 men, who are liked, and still one can hardly tell why. He 
 was elected to ofiBce by a large majority over his compet- 
 itors. He informed me that his office fees averaged about 
 one hundred dollars a week. The Legislature had not yet 
 reduced the exorbitant fees demanded by judges, magis- 
 trates, jurors, and constables ; and woe to the luckless 
 wight who became entangled in the meshes of the law. 
 
 Sunday, May 4th. Mr. C delivered another lec- 
 ture ; the subject this time was " The evils resulting 
 from Gambling." He acquitted himself admirably, but 
 it was like the play entitled, " Love's Labor Lost." The 
 general state of the society in our town was excellent. 
 We had as yet no houses for religious worship ; the town 
 was not incorporated ; each man was free to act as he 
 thought proper ; and yet we had no robberies, no murders, 
 but every one appeared anxious to have our little village 
 distinguished for its morality. 
 
 Wednesday, May 7th. The flowers in full bloom ; away 
 over the marshes, on the mountain top, as far as the eye 
 could reach, could be seen beautiful flowers of the most 
 gorgeous colors, and yet without perfume, save the violet, 
 the sweetest of them all, which filled the air with its de-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 143 
 
 lightful fragrance. Often and often I sauntered out and 
 gathered the prettiest to adorn my rude cabin. 
 
 There were a couple of bakers among us, but clever 
 Johnny, from "swate Ireland," did the best business. My 
 bill for bread averaged one dollar a week, and as the 
 greater number of our citizens purchased their bread, 
 Johnny accumulated a goodly amount of the "root of all 
 evil." If my memory serves me aright, he had upwards 
 of ten thousand dollars deposited in one of the banking 
 houses of San Francisco. Johnny would once a week 
 bake pies and cakes, which always sold readily at high 
 prices; but most of his customers would have declined 
 them at any price, had they been at their •' homes in the 
 East," as we used to say. 
 
 Claims were still called for on Cardinal Hill, and if ever 
 I made money without much labor, it was in performing 
 the duties of Recorder. 
 
 But if disputes arose concerning claims, the Recorder 
 was supposed to be possessed of wondrous wisdom, and 
 it was necessary to assume a magisterial air. I remember, 
 on one occasion, a party of fellows took possession of a por- 
 tion of Cardinal Hill, gave it a name, elected a Recorder, 
 and pretended that their side was vastly the most pro- 
 fitable. Now came my turn to exercise the dignity and im- 
 portance of my oflfice ; and as I was a man of peace, not 
 disposed for •' 54.40 or fight," I began to think my oflBce
 
 144 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 was not so comfortable as I had supposed. Cardinal Hill 
 demanded her right, and called its chief oflBcer to '' go at 
 once and dispossess the intruders." 
 
 Now, some things are much easier talked about than 
 done ; however, I bristled up courage, marched off for 
 the residence of the executive officer of Wolf's Hill — 
 as they called it — and soon made known who I was, and 
 what I wanted. The man resembled that tame bird call- 
 ed the mastiff, and the war of words we kept up was loud 
 enough to startle the Indians, whose camp was near by. 
 I insisted that the entire hill belonged to the Cardinal 
 company; and knowing their rights and claims, I demand- 
 ed a surrender of our property ! "Why ; my argument 
 had about as much influence on the man, as the fly which 
 occasionally lit upon his cranium. He declared his de- 
 termination to hold on to that portion of the hill which his 
 company claimed— -tEat he had as much right to its pos- 
 session as any body else. I was accompanied by one 
 friend only, whose physical prowess was about equal to 
 my own. Our opponent was surrounded by a dozen of his 
 chums, each one of whom looked as though they had rather 
 fight than say their prayers. And I, admiring the maxim, 
 that " the better part of valor is discretion," considered 
 it prudent to return to my friends, which I did, and re- 
 ceived their congratulations and thanks for so boldly ven- 
 turing alone on such a mission to such characters, al-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 145 
 
 though I failed to accomplish the object of my mission. 
 Our party talked the matter over, and as there was a nar- 
 row ravine running through the hill, which may have an- 
 swered as a dividing line, we let the matter rest, and thus 
 ended a dispute which threatened disastrous consequen- 
 ces, and its peaceable termination relieved me of consid- 
 erable anxiety and annoyance. 
 
 Sunday, May 10th. Delightful weather, and I enjoy- 
 ed the day very pleasantly with numerous friends. But 
 it was a strange mode of life : abstaining from all secular 
 work, and no place of religious worship. It was a day 
 when friends visited each other, talked over the scenes 
 and occurrences of childhood, the transactions of life 
 at maturity, the causes of emigration to California, and 
 the prospects of the future. How many recollections 
 arise in the mind of a wanderer in a distant land ; how 
 frequently we think of pleasures we enjoyed, and resolve, 
 if ever we return, that we will do thus and so. What a 
 delightful pleasure it is to hope. Hope ! the sheet-anchor 
 of an adventurer's life 1 Truly, every Californian can 
 appreciate the "pleasures of hope;" and may every one 
 of them realize their best wishes.
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 MY CABIN— A SERMON— A FIRE, ALMOST— MY PETS— AN AC- 
 QUAINTANCE, &c., &c. 
 
 Saturday, June Ith, 1851. I now lived in my own cabin, 
 located on a gently rising hill, within sight of Centreville 
 or Grass Valley, and very often was the only human being 
 dwelling upon that mountain. But I became much attach- 
 ed to my shingle cabin. Many a night when the wind blew 
 a perfect hurricane, when the lightning flashed most 
 vividly, the thunder roared the loudest, and the rain pour- 
 ed down the fiercest — many a night did I sleep alone in 
 that fragile cabin — no human being within the sound of 
 my voice ; and I loved that rude old hut and the very trees 
 that sheltered it. Is it not strange how we can habitu- 
 ate ourselves to seeming inconveniences and deprivations % 
 My cabin vv^as constructed of poles and shingles ; not a pane 
 of glass about the premises ; and the only light I enjoyed 
 came in when I left open the door. The chimney was of 
 an elegant style of architecture ; but of a design, which, a 
 Chinese only could describe. The floor of my mansion — 
 oh, I am writing too hurriedly — the ground was covered 
 with pine twigs, which answered very well until I pulled 
 ofl^ my boots ! My bedstead was of the latest French 
 pattern in one particular, and that was its low posts; but
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 147 
 
 it was remarkable for its durability ; the thick shingles 
 nailed across the untrimraed poles, never gave way. My 
 table was of the plainest style, four round sticks, and about 
 a dozen shingles composed that necessary article of furni- 
 ture, and my cupboard was most admirable for stowing 
 away provisions, only it lacked sides and a door! But I 
 shall, in course of time, speak more particularly of the 
 trees, my arbor, and grounds, for I possessed quite an es- 
 tate, and no wonder strangers passing by inquired, " who 
 lives there ?" 
 
 The principal " diggings," Centreville ravine and Mud 
 flat, classic names ! were within sight of my new abode. 
 The town was about a quarter of a mile distant, and the 
 only inhabitants that favored me with their continual pre- 
 sence were snakes — bah ! the hideous things haunt me 
 now. A lonely owl, which perched itself on a lofty pine 
 close by my cabin, every night honored me with a seren- 
 ade, which was any thing but agreeable; and rats ! why 
 I had them by hundreds, and they were of the largest 
 species. But my favorite pets were lizards ! Every time 
 I sat down to eat, they would crawl into my cabin to be 
 fed with crumbs of bread. I can recollect when the in- 
 trusion of such pets would have quickly driven me from 
 the table. 
 
 But I possessed a healthy location, pure water, delight- 
 ful shade, privacy and quiet. Now, I sometimes wonder
 
 148 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 how 1 could muster courage to remain so long a time on 
 that mountain alone. Depraved men occasionally passed 
 through our valley, and again Indians, who were known 
 to be hostile to the whites ; but I never was attacked in 
 going to my cabin at a late hour, even in the darkest night. 
 Nor was I molested at any time, although I could easily 
 have been robbed and murdered in my hut, the intruders 
 escaping, and perhaps never being detected. Often 
 and often have friends urged me " to move further down 
 the hill ;" but I loved my isolated residence, and con- 
 tinued its occupant until I left for the Atlantic states. 
 
 The prices of provisions and clothing were gradually 
 falling, and miners could live much more economically 
 than a few months previously. Then, there was little com- 
 petition in trade ; now, stores were established, which 
 could have supplied many more inhabitants than were liv- 
 ing in our beautiful valley. 
 
 Sunday, June Qth. Fine weather; spent the day very 
 agreeably; in the afternoon listened to a sermon by Rev. 
 
 Dr. H , of the Episcopal church ; very few attended ; 
 
 and it was the first and last discourse the doctor preached 
 there. He did not like the idea of holding forth to empty 
 benches. The larger portion of his audience had never 
 before attended service as conducted by the Episcopalians, 
 and I feared some of them were strangers to any religious 
 exercises.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 149 
 
 Monday, June 9i7i. The trees whicli flourished best in 
 our neighborhood were the oak and pine ; and at that time 
 wood cost nothing ; so every miner kept up a blazing fire ; 
 and well they did, for the nights were always cool, and 
 during the winter months, when the rain pour6d down and 
 thoroughly drenched their fragile cabins, these comfortable 
 fires prevented a vast amount of sickness. I came near 
 losing mj palatial habitation on one occasion. I greatly 
 feared that I should be overrun by the million of ants 
 that were holding a mass convention near me, and I saw 
 they had agreed "by acclamation" to take possession of 
 my provisions " sans ceremonie." So I threw hot ashes 
 over the first battalion, and passed on to the city, hoping, 
 upon my return, I would find that my enemy had "retreat- 
 ed." As I was returning, not dreaming of anything amiss, 
 some friend sang out to me, " look ahead, your cabin is on 
 fire." I hastened my steps, and soon discovered that the 
 hot ashes had ignited the dried leaves lying around, and 
 the flames were fast extending towards my cabin. I took 
 things very calmly; reached, for my long shovel, and 
 pitched the burning leaves as far off as possible. Fortu- 
 nately, they lodged upon a bank of clay, and thus I saved 
 my hut, drove off the ants, and sitting down, partook of a 
 frugal repast, grateful that I still possessed a shelter, 
 humble though it was. 
 
 Among the miners, Thomas Y , formerly of New
 
 150 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 York, was? my most intimate and valued acquaintance. 
 "We lived in adjoining cabins for a considerable time ; we 
 felt truly interested in each other's success and happiness, 
 and enjoyed many a delightful walk and conversation, 
 which, doubtless, we shall remember with pleasure as long 
 as memory performs its office. My friend Y. knew my 
 fondness for odd pets; so he shot in the wing, a large crow, 
 brought it to me, and said, "there, now you have a pet." 
 I found my " black bird" would not consent to be confined 
 in the cabin, so I tied a rope to his leg, and fastened it to 
 a log, where he strutted and cawed, cawed to his heart's 
 content. He became so friendly that he would eat from 
 my hands ; but one day I missed him, and never knew 
 whether some fellow stole him, or whether he gnawed the 
 rope in twain, and " took leg bail." 
 
 The most hideous thing I saw in California was a horn- 
 ed frog. I gave him a wide berth ; but perhaps the taran- 
 tula which I once came near putting my hand upon, was 
 even more disgusting. This poisonous reptile was honor- 
 ed by being pinioned to a post ! 
 
 Those persons who were fond of gunning, had capital 
 sport ; game in abundance. Deer, bears, antelopes, rab- 
 bits, squirrels, ducks and geese, birds of nearly every 
 kind ; and those fond of angling met with great success, 
 for the rivers and streams teemed with a variety of the 
 choicest fish, although the Indians declared " the smoke-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 151 
 
 ships of the whites frightened off the finny tribe in the 
 big waters." 
 
 C H AFTER XXIV. 
 
 GRASS VALLEY— MINES IN SUMMER AND WINTER— FIRE— A 
 HERMIT— A FRIEND. 
 
 June 14th, IS^l. The great difficulty which miners la- 
 bored under at this time, was in procuring a sufficient sup- 
 ply of water to wash their " dirt." No water and ditch 
 companies had yet been formed, and men who owned 
 valuable claims, were compelled to exercise the patience 
 of grandfather Job, in waiting until the rainy season came 
 around. Most persons are doubtless aware that the cli- 
 mate of California is vastly difi'erent from that of any other 
 state in the confederacy. During the summer months 
 not a drop of water descends upon the parched ground, 
 and those settlements destitute of never-failing streams, 
 present a languishing aspect. But the winter months 
 bring copious showers, and during this season everything 
 assumes a cheerful appearance, and the miner's heart is 
 gladdened. 
 
 The miners who possessed valuable claims, and yet had 
 no water to " run their dirt" through the long-tom, gen- 
 erally remained and employed their time during the sum- 
 mer season in throwing up the dirt, which dried in the
 
 152 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 sun, and, of course, washed out more easily during the 
 
 winter. 
 
 A ravine at this season of the year (June) presented a 
 
 singular appearance. Here were deep holes dug, around 
 them, heaps of dirt thrown up — over there a pile of 
 stones and rocks exposed to the sun, which, a few months 
 previously, had been buried deep within the earth, and per- 
 haps had lain undisturbed for centuries. Near by were 
 parts of washing machines which had done good service, 
 but were now warped and cracked ; and — look out ! — 
 walk cautiously, see that singularly worked hole, let us go 
 down ; there are the props which sustain the bank above ; 
 there are the various rooms, swept clean as a parlor floor, 
 not a particle of gold can be found ; the ownei's carefully 
 followed the "lead," dug up and washed out the paying 
 dirt, and burrowed under in that peculiar manner so as to 
 save the expense of " throwing off top dirt." It was a 
 system of mining called " kiotying," taken from the kio- 
 ta, an animal that burrows under the ground. 
 
 Fire, fire, fire ! the alarm was sounded — every inhabit- 
 ant felt excited — run, men, run ! All the houses were con- 
 structed ot poles and shingles, lined with muslin or paper, 
 and should the fire spread, good-bye to our village ; we 
 had no fire engines, and no water convenient. Fire ! fire ! 
 Where ? Down " Mill street." I saw the flames Issuing 
 from one of friend S 's houses ; fortunately, it stood
 
 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 153 
 
 alone, and the evening was calm. The building was 
 consumed. The fire extended no farther, and the danger 
 was over. 
 
 The " vigilance committee" was in full sway in San 
 Francisco ; many outlaws who were " spotted" left for 
 the mining districts, and although many dangerous look- 
 ing fellows passed through our village, we were not dis- 
 turbed by any of them. Our town was not incorporated, 
 and although a few selfish and designing men tried their 
 utmost to have it incorporated, still they were inglo- 
 riously defeated, and we continued in our old course, and 
 few, if any settlements in California could exhibit a more 
 moral and virtuous people. I found much to interest and 
 amuse me in my leisure hours in listening to the history 
 of some of the inhabitants. There was one known as the 
 hermit, who rarely communicated with any one ; he was 
 looked upon as a selfish, morose, and unsocial being ; he 
 wore a heavy moustache and whiskers, and yet there was an 
 air of refinement and a gentlemanly bearing about him, 
 which interested me exceedingly, and excited a desire to 
 learn something of his past history. Circumstances threw 
 us together, and we became quite intimate. I was his first 
 guest at his table. His cabin was constructed in the form 
 of a soldier's tent. You opened into his bed chamber ; 
 everything neatly arranged ; the ground covered with 
 
 fresh pine twigs, and the adjoining room was his kitchen, 
 7#
 
 154 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 his store-room, &c., &c. There was his convenient man- 
 tel, and his serviceable fire-place ; his chair with a table at- 
 tached, upon which he ate his meals, stood in the centre of 
 the room, and when we sat down to dine, everything was 
 in excellent order, and we enjoyed ourselves exceedingly. 
 We met often afterwards ; for a short time we mined to- 
 gether, and during our walks through the delightfully shad- 
 ed woods, I learned his history, which interested me so 
 much, that I will endeavor to relate it, as nearly as I can 
 recollect in his own words, feeling assured it will interest 
 all. "At the expiration of the year 18 — , I stood at my 
 office door in Wall street, New York, worth fifty thou- 
 sand dollars clear of the world. This amount I consider- 
 ed sufficient for my wants, and I had determined to retire 
 from business ; but just as I was about to leave the office, 
 my partners urged me to continue one year longer, say- 
 ing, that their business was increasing, and there was 
 every probability of doubling that amount in twelve 
 months. After reflecting a few moments, I yielded to their 
 wishes. T continued as a bill and exchange broker twelve 
 months longer, and at the expiration of that time, stood 
 in front of the office worth not one cent ! 
 
 " A financial crisis arose, it affected our house, and I 
 went forth a poor, miserable and disappointed man. In 
 the meanwhile, the beloved v/ife of my choice, died — 
 an only child was left me. I placed the little babe in
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 155 
 
 charge of her mother's family, and started westward. 
 The California gold excitement broke out. I rushed to 
 the new El Dorado, and by working early and late, suc- 
 ceeded in accumulating several thousand dollars, which I 
 sent to my friends to be invested as a permaneut fund for 
 the sole use of my little daughter. Then I breathed 
 freer. I was able to supply the wants of my little dar- 
 ling, and now I work on, work faithfully to accumulate 
 sufBcient to visit her, to take her under my own care, and 
 teach her the religion of Christ !" 
 
 Among my numerous acquaintances, I shall ever re- 
 member another with whom 1 was most intimate, the most 
 familiar friend he had outside of his own family ; but he is 
 now sleeping his last sleep beneath the cold clods of the 
 valley. The choicest flowers, planted by the hand of af- 
 fection, are blooming, doubtless, over his grave. He was 
 a man of fine classical attainments ; had traveled over 
 many lands, and his colloquial powers were of the highest 
 order. At his southern home, he was universally belov- 
 ed, and had occupied offices of trust and honor. His de- 
 scription of his travels through Europe, I remember with 
 profit and pleasure. Only one incident I will mention. 
 He was about entering Madame Tussaud's wax-figure ex- 
 hibition in London, and seeing, as he supposed, Madame 
 Tussaud, sitting in the hall, wearing a pleasant smile, he 
 bowed politely, and passed on ; but observing some gen-
 
 156 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 tlemen laughing, he asked the cause of their mirth, as 
 their attention seemed directed to him. They answered — 
 " You have been bowing to and saluting Madame Tussaud 
 in wax!" But an uncontrollable thirst for alcoholic stimu- 
 lants — a thirst for that vile poison, which has caused tears 
 to flow sufficient to float a fleet of vessels, early removed 
 hioa from life. May the giver of all good and perfect 
 gifts, blot out his frailties, and the angel of mercy drop a 
 tear of pity over his weakness. 
 
 CHAPTER XXY. 
 
 PRICES CURRENT— "WHIG CONVENTION— SUNDAY AT THE 
 MINES— THE WEATHER— QUARTZ MILLS— THE MISFORTUNE 
 OF A SAN FRANCISCO MERCHANT. 
 
 Provisions were always sold by weight, and although 
 much reduced in price, still they were not as low as ma- 
 ny thought they ought to have been. Butter, made at Go- 
 shen, New York, retailed at 75 cents per pound ; hams, 
 Ohio sugar-cured, 25 to 35 cents; flour, 10 to 12 cents; 
 potatoes, 12 cents; dried fruit, 30 cents; onions, 40 cents; 
 pickles, from Si to Si J per bottle ; fresh beef, when we 
 could get it, 35 cents ; mackerel, 38 cents each ; sugar 25 
 to 30 cents ; and molasses 50 cents a pint. 
 
 June 17th, 1851. The bell sounded, the citizens assem- 
 bled together — for what? To nominate municipal officers.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 157 
 
 Now, the larger number of citizens were decidedly oppos- 
 ed to our town being incorporated; a few designing and 
 speculating men only desired it. Soon after the meeting 
 was organized 1 tool: the Jloor, and moved that "it is in- 
 expedient to nominate candidates for town officers," which 
 was promptly seconded, unanimously adopted, and the 
 brilliant convention adjourned sine die. 
 
 "Wednesday, June 18th. To-day was held our first 
 Whig convention ; delegates from Nevada and Rough and 
 
 Ready joined us. My friend. Judge S , of whom I 
 
 have heretofore spoken, was unanimously elected presid- 
 ing officer; and the entire proceedings reminded me very 
 much of the politicarconventions 1 had attended as " lob- 
 by member" in the eastern states. There was consider- 
 able discussion in relation to the office of State senator. 
 Nevada wanted the candidate selected from her district. 
 Rough and Ready very modestly withdrew from the dis- 
 cussion, and finally it was compromised by our district 
 getting the senatorial nominee, and Nevada taking the 
 lion's share of the candidates for the assembly. 
 
 During the morning Captain Wemah, head chief of the 
 Indian tribe in our valley, came into the room, and as he 
 took a seat alongside of me, I watched his countenance, 
 feeling curious to know how the proceedings would interest 
 him. The old chief understood about as much of the 
 English language as a Japanese. He sat silent awhile,
 
 158 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 gazed all around the room, rose up, straightened himself^ 
 turned around, exclaimed "ugh," and off he marched. 
 
 Mr. John A. C , whose lectures upon gambling and 
 
 intemperance were noticed in previous chapters, was nom- 
 inated for senator. Three candidates for the assembly 
 were nominated — two taken from Nevada, and one from 
 Eough and Ready. As usual on such occasions, the nom- 
 inations were declared the unanimous choice of the con- 
 vention ; each candidate pledged himself as thoroughly 
 devoted to Whig measures, the entire convention promised 
 to work faithfully and unceasingly for the success of the 
 Whig ticket, and with three cheers and a tiger, the assem- 
 bly separated in the best humor. 
 
 Sunday, June 22d. The weather, as usual, lovely, — 
 Everybody appeared good-humored, and gladly rested 
 from the fatiguing duties of the past week. There was no 
 preaching or lecturing, no ringing of church bells, no Sab- 
 bath Schools, each one was free to do and act as he ])leas- 
 ed. Over there, under the sheltering branches of a tall 
 oak, are seated a crowd of miners, with their sun-burnt 
 faces, almost concealed from view by their heavy mous- 
 taches and whiskers, listening to that delicate looking 
 man relating his early trials in gold hunting ; now they 
 laugh, anon they look serious. And there go a party on 
 a prospecting tour; here pass by a crowd of "jolly good 
 fellows" bound for Nevada to spend the day. Look ! the
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 159 
 
 stores are open — what a trade is carried on ; see that man 
 purchasing clothing, and that one laying in a stock of 
 provisions, perhaps each one would have scorned the idea 
 of trading on the Sabbath, had they been at home, but 
 custom makes strange beings of us all. 
 
 Look through the cabin doors of some of the miners and 
 see how busily employed they are : there sits one mending 
 his clothing, another washing, and another reading a well 
 worn letter, perhaps from his mother — or from one, to 
 marry whom he risked everything to reach California, and 
 there accumulate sutEcient to enable him to wed. 
 
 Now it is noon-day — the men separate one by one, par- 
 take of a lunch, then read, and finally stretch themselves 
 on the ground and sleep sweetly, dreaming, perhaps, of the 
 happy home they left, or blest with bright visions of suc- 
 cess, and a happy re-union of dear friends. But the sun 
 has gone down behind the long range of hills, supper is 
 prepared, twilight always lovely and soothing, but espec- 
 ially so on a Sabbath eve, sets in. The chirping from a 
 thousand evening insects is heard, night hovers over the 
 village, another Sunday has gone by, and all is quiet. 
 
 Monday, June 23d, — The weather is now uncomfortably 
 warm ; the water is fast drying up in the ravines, and 
 most of the miners turning their attention to quartz dig- 
 ging. Let us go down Mill street and examine the quartz 
 mills. See that pile of stones ! each one contains gold.
 
 160 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 Watch that man how he breaks into small pieces the large 
 stones ; see, another shovels it into those large iron mor- 
 tars ; there are twelve mortars in the mill. Now the mill 
 is in operation ; see those heavy iron pestles how they 
 descend into the mortars, crushing the stones to a coarse 
 powder. A small stream of water is made to run through 
 each mortar, which carries oflF the powdered rock into a 
 large trough lined with muslin, the bottom covered with 
 quicksilver. The gold being the heaviest, sinks to the 
 bottom, the gravel passes over ; and thump, thump, thump, 
 is heard all day. At evening the mill is stopped, the gold 
 is carefully scooped out, taken to the retort room, where it 
 is separated from the mercury, and — that is all we can see. 
 Continuing my sketch of California acquaintances, I 
 introduce a son of the Emerald Isle. He was a baker by 
 trade, emigrated to California in 1848, found employment 
 as journeyman baker at exorbitant wages, saved his 
 money, and managed his finances so successfully, that he 
 returned to New York worth over $15,000 ; traveled 
 over a large portion of the states, but his previous 
 habits and education prevented him from locating 
 and investing his money judiciously. He must again 
 venture to California, and seek the novelty, freedom and 
 excitement that he enjoyed in San Francisco. Wages he 
 found greatly reduced, and a man of his means could not 
 hire out as a journeyman. So he rented the lower store-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. ICl 
 
 room of the Tontine buiklings, invested his money in 
 groceries, did a flourishing business, and was happy. 
 
 One night, nvhen he had closed his store, and joined 
 some acquaintances in strolling around the city to " see 
 the sights," a cry of fire "was raised. Fire ! fire ! ! fire ! ! ! 
 the very sound was terrifying in San Francisco, for her 
 citizens had sufi"ered so severely. The whole male popu- 
 lation turned out; fire, fire! run, men, "see that light," 
 it's down on the wharf 
 
 Patrick was frightened ; on, on, he ran, he turned the 
 corner — '* what ! the Tontine on fire ? " " Here, men, 
 lend a hand, save my goods ; stand back." See, the 
 building tumbles in, and in a few moments was a heap 
 of hot cinders ! I asked him if he saved any of his pro- 
 perty 1 he answered, " I am not worth five dollars. ' 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 GRAND INDIAN POW WOW OR CONVENTION— THE WEATHER 
 —BRIEF ACCOtJNT OF ANOTHER ACQUAINTANCE. 
 
 Look there ! " Heigho, what is going on among the In- 
 dians 1 " Why, there is to be a grand " Pow Wow " at 
 Wemah's camp to-night ; "Let us go down." " Agreed." 
 
 I was anxious to be present at the beginning of the ex- 
 ercises, but waiting for some friends, whose business de-
 
 162 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 tained them later than they had expected, we arrived at 
 the camp just in time to he loo late for the grand war- 
 dance, in which participated the entire assemblage of 
 chiefs, braves and warriors, many of whom were represen- 
 tatives from distant tribes who had come to attend the all- 
 important " big talk " in relation to the " pale faces." 
 
 The squaws were not allowed to indulge in any of the 
 sports, neither were they permitted to come within speak- 
 ing distance of the council house. 
 
 Some of the warriors were profusely decorated with 
 fancy colored feathers, beads, shells and trinkets, and 
 liberally daubed with paint. After resting a short time, 
 the gaily-decked Indians made for the council chamber, (a 
 description of which, and the camp, I gave in a former 
 chapter,) which was dimly lighted by a fire in the centre, 
 around which the various delegations squatted in a circle. 
 
 " Captain " Wemah, who held the important position of 
 chief over all the Digger Indians, stood in the centre of 
 the party, and when all were quiet — not a whisper to be 
 heard — he commenced his opening and welcome speech, 
 delivering it with wonderful fluency, great vehemence, and 
 wild and violent gesticulations. During his powerful ad- 
 dress, he was frequently applauded by his well behaved 
 and respectful auditory, 'i'lie old chief was dressed in his 
 best suit : his coat, which had been given him by an 
 American soldier, fitted him about as well as the gar-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 163 
 
 ments that are put on a stick to frighten off the crows 
 from a corn field ; in one pocket he had a couple of empty 
 bottles, in the other a huge horse pistol, which once might 
 have been a formidable weapon, but now lacked a trigger ! 
 When he had concluded his speech, he called out — " Ven 
 Wollupie " — " si, si, signer." Two stout, well-developed 
 braves seized a tub oi daintihj prepared acorn gruel, and 
 placed it before their delegation ; others were called, who 
 followed their example, until every squad was supplied 
 with a tub of gruel ; then, at the signal of the " Captain," 
 each Indian dipped his unwashed hands into the delect- 
 able food, and gulped down the gruel like a half-starved 
 
 pig- 
 After the liberal entertainment \7as finished, the Conven- 
 tion or Paw Wow was called to order, and Wemah again 
 addressed the motley crowd, with even more earnestness 
 than before. There were unmistakable evidences of dis- 
 content. The fire in the centre of the council house was 
 fast dying out ; the discussion waxed warm ; those of the 
 Indians who could not get inside of the chamber, clam- 
 bered on the roof, and peeped down the bole in the mid- 
 dle, heedless of the smoke, and the vile stench which issued 
 forth in murky clouds. "Wemah danced, frothed and ex- 
 postulated, but all to no purpose. The " PowWow " lost 
 all sense of propriety, and the clever old chief stalked out 
 in apparent disgust. No sooner had his *' highness " re-
 
 164 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 tired, than every " pale face " inside the council was un- 
 ceremoniously ordered out. 
 
 As a report of the great speech of the evening would 
 doubtless be interesting, though not familiar with the 
 Indian language, I will endeavor to give a few sentences 
 from memory's log : " Ingin — no cava — ugh — hah— man- 
 ayna — he^ ya^ hi — mucho Americano fight — si hugh — capi- 
 taw — ugh fire-water, whishey aqua no good — sleepy — ha — 
 he — yes ! " 
 
 I passed around the camp, and stopped in front of We- 
 mah's wigwam. There the old chief lay flat upon his face, 
 his military coat buttoned up to his chin, around him the 
 nu)nerous ladies of his household. Just then a friend 
 called to me ; I looked around, and found I was the only 
 "pale face " within the camp — the small hours of another 
 day had come around. I hastened to join my companions, 
 when we returned to our wigwams, and sought and found 
 refreshing sleep. 
 
 The weather during this month (July) was oppressively 
 warm ; it was almost impossible to work during the after- 
 noon, but it made but little difference about working " on 
 short time," for the water was getting scarce, and men 
 could accomplish very little by ravine mining. 
 
 Continuing my account of California acquaintances, 
 which exhibits the variety of characters, tastes and educa- 
 tion of her population, I introduce the son of a Boston
 
 SKETCHES OF TKAVELS. 1G5 
 
 clergyman. This clever, fine-appearing young gentleman, 
 at an early age, was afflicted with sore eyes ; all the 
 remedies suggested by friends and physicians were of no 
 avail. He was an ambitious youth, and keenly felt the 
 sore affliction. As a dernier resort, he was advised to take 
 a European tour; he knew his father's limited pecuniary 
 resources, and hesitated. Finally, that devoted father 
 said : "Here, my son, are six hundred dollars; take this 
 money and go to Europe, and perhaps your eyes may be 
 restored to a healthy condition." He accepted, but to 
 himself vowed that, if he lived, he would accept any occu- 
 pation that was not disreputable, to refund that father his 
 money ; the sequel will show whether he did. 
 
 The day for bidding adieu to family and friends arrived ; 
 he bade " good bye," and sailed for England. Aware of 
 his limited finances, he determined to practice economy. 
 Through England, France, Germany and Italy he traveled, 
 but nearly always on foot, with his knapsack fastened to 
 his back. His fine carriage and gentlemanly deportment 
 won '' troops of friends, and he enjoyed his views afoot " 
 exceedingly. Often he was supposed to be one of the 
 Boston literati traveling in-cog ; again he was taken for 
 some wealthy gentleman traveling on foot, purposely to 
 view the country more satisfactorily than he otherwise 
 could by coach or railway. 
 
 He preserved his incognito ; was often entertained by
 
 1G6 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 nobles, and had abundant enjoyment. In Rome he hired 
 a room — marble floor, comfortable bed, bad his breakfast 
 furnished him, also his boots blacked — all for one dollar a 
 week. His dinner he procured at one of the numerous 
 cafes for five cents. 
 
 Here he met gentlemen from Boston, and whenever in- 
 vited to join them in their travels, he would respectfully 
 decline, preferring to continue bis travels alone and 
 " afoot." His six hundred dollars were nearly exhausted, 
 so he engaged passage in the first steamer up for America ; 
 returned to his friends improved in knowledge and gene- 
 ral health, save his eyes, which still remained weak. 
 
 The California gold excitement broke out ; accustomed 
 to travel and excitement, he rushed to the land of" Oro," 
 
 The climate of California suited his constitution ; he 
 wrote home cheering accounts of the improved condition 
 of his eyes, and his bright prospects of the future ; and 
 upon my inquiry whether he had transmitted any of his 
 California earnings home, he exhibited to me 'receipts of 
 drafts for over $2,000 which he had sent his father.^j
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 THE WEATHER— A LAND-SLIDE— SHADE AND ORNAMENTAL 
 
 TREES— CONSIDERABLE TALK ABOUT "THE POOR 
 
 INDIAN." 
 
 August, 1851. — It is needless, almost, to make any ob- 
 servations concerning the weather during this month. I 
 will only remark that no one who could avoid it, would 
 leave the comfortable shade to toil under the burning rays 
 of the sun. About 11 o'clock in the morning 1 would 
 quit out-door work, and the ravines adjacent to Center- 
 ville presented a desolate scene — hardly a miner could be 
 seen. As the water was insufficient to " run the ma- 
 chine," I employed a great portion of the time in hunting 
 gold-bearing quartz, which was more a source of pleasure 
 than toil. Sometimes I was very successful ; I remember 
 I had used a flat stone for several days about my trough, 
 and one day in passing my claim, I picked up the same 
 stone which I had frequently thrown aside ; but this time 
 I examined it closely, found it thoroughly injected with 
 gold, reduced it to powder, and realized from it fourteen 
 dollars. I also had a beautiful transparent piece of 
 quartz, resembling one of the drops to a chandelier — in 
 the centre was embedded a lump of gold — quite a curiosity, 
 even in California.
 
 168 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 Occasionally we would find pebbles cemented together, 
 forming masses as hard as the solid rock, evidencing the 
 fact of an internal fire at some period more remote than 
 the oldest inhabitant's great, great-grandfather could re- 
 collect. The hill upon which my cabin was built was 
 supposed to have been formed by a land-slide, for upon 
 digging down to the depth of fifty feet, large pieces of 
 charcoal were brought to light, injected with bright par- 
 ticles of sulphuret of iron, also pieces of stone which, upon 
 close inspection, proved to be petrified wood. Very fre- 
 quently pieces of gold would be found having a resem- 
 blance to animals and various fanciful figures, which 
 specimens always sold at high prices, and were manufac- 
 tured into breast pins, rings, and other ornaments. 
 
 Some of our citizens turned their attention to horticul- 
 tural pursuits, and ultimately realized more money than 
 by mining. Vegetables, in consequence of the richness of 
 the soil, grew to almost monstrosities. Irrigation and 
 ditching were resorted to by agriculturists during the dry 
 season. At the time I am writing about, any person 
 could have procured a farm for the trouble of fencing it in, 
 and having it recorded at a cost of only three dollars. 
 
 When not mining, or otherwise profitably engaged, I 
 amused myself in improving the outside of my lone cabin. 
 I selected the prettiest young pine trees, cut them down, 
 brought them to my cabin, and planted them in front of
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 169 
 
 my door, until I had formed an arbor which afforded me 
 a delightful shade, and made my retreat more private. 
 
 There grew on the hill a tree called the massinetto ; the 
 bark was smooth, of dark red color, the leaves light green, 
 and the flowers white ; it seemed a favorite tree for bees 
 and little birds. I selected the prettiest and largest ones 
 I could find, cut them down, dragged them to my house, 
 dug holes, and planted them in front of the pine trees, and 
 so long as the flowers were in bloom, I could boast of the 
 prettiest arbor to be found around the settlement ; and 
 ■when I came forth from my cabin, I enjoyed not only my 
 arbors, but more particularly the society of the many 
 little birds and pretty winged insects that never failed to 
 pay me morning visits. 
 
 During the month of August there were no religious 
 services held in our district ; still, those miners who had 
 received religious instruction in their youth, always con- 
 ducted themselves with proper decorum on the Sabbath — 
 another evidence of the importance of parents training up 
 their children correctly. 
 
 As respectable females were coming among us, and 
 our settlement was becoming a place of considerable im- 
 portance, a commendable improvement was observed in 
 the habits and dress of the Red Men. Some of the squaws 
 could be seen with frocks on, and the braves wearing hats 
 and trowsers. 
 8
 
 170 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 One day, observing several acquaintances laughing 
 heartily, I inquired the cause of their mirth, when my at- 
 tention was directed to a procession of three Indians com- 
 ing up the street. The first warrior was playing the jews- 
 harp, as unconcernedly as though he had been in his 
 wigwam, having only an apron on ; the next hero was 
 whistling, turning neither to the right nor left, but walking 
 ahead, regardless of the loud laughing of the " pale faces ;" 
 his entire dress consisted of an old vest, and that unbut- 
 toned ! The last Indian was singing ; he strutted proudly 
 by, clad in a hickory shirt which he valued above price. 
 
 Whenever an Indian visited a trading establishment, the 
 most gaudy colored handkerchiefs, calicos, &c., were 
 shown him, Indians never value money ; and I have seen 
 them enter a store, put down their gold dust, and keep on 
 buying until the storekeeper would call out, " all gone." 
 
 I saw a finely developed brave come into one of the 
 stores, gaze all around the room until his keen eye caught 
 sight of a bundle of "Arctic " comforts, and although the 
 weather was oppressively warm, he purchased several and 
 wrapped them around his waist, and stalked out as proud 
 as an emperor. 
 
 These Indians were generally men of truth ; whenever 
 an Indian requested a garment to be laid aside for him 
 it was done, for the merchant felt sure that he would re- 
 turn on the promised day.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 171 
 
 On one occasion, chief Wolupe, next in rank to Capt. 
 Wemah, ordered a heavy cloth coat, and promised to call 
 with the "oro" after two ''sleepy ;" after the two " sleepy" 
 passed, in walked the chief, and with a disti'essed look, 
 announced that '* Injun man play push stick — lost him 
 money, bah, ugh ; " but he promised to come back again 
 after one "sleepy," and he did and bought the coat. They 
 are very fond of gambling, and use sticks instead of cards. 
 
 They are a temperate people, and afraid of" fire-water." 
 They are a virtuous people, but, of course, like all human 
 beings, their characters exhibit both good and bad traits. 
 They never use salt on their meat ; when game is brought 
 into camp, it is thrown on the fire, roasted, and then 
 greedily devoured, with little regard to the rules of con- 
 ventional society. 
 
 Acorns are a favorite article of food, and a full supply 
 is always kept on hand for emergencies. They are a 
 dirty, filthy people. Their active out-door life, and absti- 
 nence from rich cooked dishes, preserve them from many 
 ailments with which more civilized people are afflicted. 
 The poor squaws are compelled to labor very hard. The 
 warriors holding any kind of work in utter contempt, they 
 had rather starve than be tied to labor. The squaws are 
 never allowed to idle away their time ; while some are 
 employed in pounding acorns, the rest are sent out to 
 search for esculent roots and vegetables. An acquaint-
 
 172 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 ance of mine expressed a desire to have a smart-looking 
 Indian boy to live with him ; he was accommodated, but 
 after a couple of days' life among the " pale faces," In- 
 dian boy vamosed without saying, " by your leave, sir." 
 
 A couple of gentlemen wished to get up a grand Indian 
 war-dance at Nevada, and while they would feast the In- 
 dians for their performance, they anticipated a consider- 
 able profit on the speculation. Captain Wemah acquiesc- 
 ed, and his whole tribe was soon preparing for the " first 
 grand exhibition by native Indians ; " and as Captain We- 
 mah had always been friendly to the whites, he hoped for 
 a full attendance. 
 
 Handbills were printed and distributed far and wide ; 
 great inducements set forth, and the price of tickets only 
 two dollars each. One morning I was standing at the 
 head of Mill street, and observed chief Wemah riding 
 along on an old scraggy-looking pony, bowing to every- 
 body, followed by his warriors, braves, squaws and little 
 ones ; nearly every squaw had a huge willow basket strap- 
 ped to her back. Away they scampered in the happiest 
 humor, bound for the exhibition. At night I saw the cap- 
 tain and his train returning in the worst humor. I asked 
 him what was the matter ? he replied : " Americana no 
 good, bah ! " 
 
 Some rowdy fellows had broken down the inclosure, 
 stopped the performances ; and the Indians were as mad
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 173 
 
 as California panthers. They, however, lost nothing — 
 they had plenty of fresh beef and bread ; but the man- 
 agers made a bad speculation — lost two hundred dol- 
 lars. They had purchased several beeves, had them 
 killed and dressed for the performers, but the rowdies in- 
 terrupted the performances, and they sold no tickets. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 A GALLOP TO AUBURN AND BACK. 
 
 September, 1851. There were often litigations among 
 miners, and I derived considerable revenue by acting as 
 juror, for hardly a day passed that I was not summoned to 
 appear before the honorable court, or be subjected to a 
 fine of twenty-five dollars. On one occasion a party from 
 Auburn (a mining settlement some thirty miles from Grass 
 Valley) visited our place for the purpose of procuring a 
 witness whose knowledge of the modus operandi of quartz 
 claims could be relied upon. It so happened that the 
 
 party chanced to stop at my friend 's store, and 
 
 upon making known the object of their visit to Grass Val- 
 ley, were referred to the recorder of Cardinal Hill. I 
 learned from them that the difficulty was about the prior- 
 ity of possession of a supposed valuable claim: — that one 
 party claimed to be the discoverers of gold-bearing quartz
 
 174 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 near Auburn, and that during their necessary absence at 
 San Francisco to procure money and tools, another party 
 took forcible possession and refused to yield up the claim. 
 I remarked that my knowledge of the working of quartz 
 claims was reliable, for I assisted in framing the laws of 
 our hill, that the rules of working, and the protection each 
 miner enjoyed were embraced in said laws. Further than 
 that " deponent saith not." However, I was solicited " to 
 come over," state before the " learned court" what I knew, 
 and that my entire expenses would be paid, and I also re- 
 ceive the usual fees " made and provided," etc. 
 
 Having no very urgent business to detain me, and in 
 humor for a jaunt, I hired John the baker's favorite nag 
 Bob, and started at a fine pace. I had never traveled 
 over that road before, and when I was about five miles 
 from home, I hardly knew whether I was going right or 
 wrong. I saw in the almost hidden path no person or 
 living thing, but snakes, tule and luxuriant growing grass, 
 and between Bob and myself, I thought I had lost my 
 way ; however, I whipped up Bobby, and kept on a 
 straight course " due south," until I overtook a man stand- 
 ing like a statue beneath the friendly sheltering branches 
 of a large tree. I inquired the route to Auburn, etc. ; he 
 replied, " all right — keep right straight on." 
 
 Away I galloped, but I stopped again ; now there were 
 two paths, and which was the " straight on " one I was
 
 SKETCnES OP TRAVELS. 175 
 
 puzzled to know, so I halted awhile ; soon a traveler 
 came along, and I asked his assistance. He said : '' take 
 that path ; bad road, sir ; hurry up — better not let night 
 overtake you," 
 
 I took that path, but it occurred to me that his advice 
 coincided with the information a friend had imparted, rela- 
 tive to a suspicious house midway. Now, I am not a 
 nervous man, nor am I a fighting man, but I observed the 
 strictest watch, for I well knew that lawless and vicious 
 men were prowling around, and in addition to this, I did 
 not know the person who desired my testimony, and fur- 
 ther, I was known to travel alone and unarmed ; but my 
 cause was a just one, and I determined to see the end of 
 my journey. On — on I spurred my faithful nag until I 
 came near the suspected locality, where I had been told 
 travelers had taken suddenly sick and died. Now, it may 
 appear a trifling matter to those persons surrounded by 
 triends, and enjoying the privileges of a civilized commun- 
 ity, but I am free to declare that the bravest of the brave, 
 under like circumstances, would have paused to consider 
 and prepare. 
 
 I never carried a pistol in my life ; I never assaulted 
 any one ; but I always trusted in the protection of our 
 heavenly Father. As soon as I emerged from the rank, 
 luxuriant tule, and faced the spotted house, men came to- 
 wards me, and offered inducements for me to alight, but
 
 176 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 my business was urgent, my horse was restless, and away 
 I galloped ; now crossing ditches, now ascending hills, 
 then dashing through thick forests, until I was about to 
 ascend along, gently rising hill, so common in California, 
 and here I allowed Bob to take his time, whilst I gazed 
 with delight upon the charming scenery spread out be- 
 fore me. 
 
 At the summit of the mountain I found the " traveler's 
 rest" — a shingle hut — and as the weather was oppres- 
 sively warm, and Bobby had performed his part well, and 
 needed rest, I dismounted, tied him under the branches of 
 a venerable elm tree, fed him on barley, fresh from the 
 field, gave him pure mountain water, partook of refresh- 
 ment myself, and rested for some time. The day was 
 fast waning, and yet I was a considerable distance from 
 Auburn. The landlord told me I could reach it before 
 dark. I mounted Bobby, bade adieu to the landlord of 
 the " mountain cottage," and followed the well-beaten 
 path until it was lost to view ; this was inexplicable to me, 
 but riding " straight on " I overtook a solitary miner, 
 who informed me that " when I rounded yonder hill, Au- 
 burn would not be a mile off." . 
 
 Thanking him, I spurred up Bob, and thought of that 
 lone miner — perhaps he was working for the support of 
 aged parents ; perhaps for the successful accomplishment 
 of some cherished object; but hark! 1 hear yells and a
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 177 
 
 loud noise. Bobby snorted and galloped faster ; we 
 " rounded yonder hill," and looking down the valley, I 
 saw Auburn below us. 
 
 Bobby trotted on, and I espied on a log cabin in huge 
 capital letters, " The Empire Hotel.'' Before I reached 
 the " Empire," I heard some one cry out, " Doctor, doc- 
 tor — this way, sir." I followed " this way," and found my 
 employer for the nonce waiting for me, who conducted me 
 to the hotel, and gave instructions to the " empress of the 
 log cabin " to furnish the doctor with the very best, and 
 always refuse any money tendered by him. This cordial 
 reception was gratifying. I had " sir Robert " properly 
 cared for, and by the time I had washed my face and 
 hands the supper bell sounded, and I sat down to an 
 excellent meal, evidencing a capable landlady. 
 
 Afterwards I strolled around the city, and pronounced 
 it the dirtiest, most ill-looking, wo- begone village or set- 
 tlement it had ever fell to my lot to visit. I returned to 
 the hotel, and soon engaged in friendly conversation with 
 my clever hostess, who was fresh from Ireland's green 
 sod, and who very politely invited the doctor to take " a 
 wee drop of the cratur' to strengthen him ; " sivcral gin- 
 tlemen from ould Ireland hoped " the stranger would 
 not refuse to take a little drop of whuskey with them." 
 Many of the boarders were curious to know who that 
 spectacled, stranger was; some thought him a "judge," 
 
 8*
 
 178 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 others a "pracher," and not a few " one of the vagilance 
 committee men ; " however, the night was advancing — I 
 felt fatigued, and signified a desire to go to sleep. I 
 could not, with propriety, say, go tobed, for very few en- 
 joyed that luxury. My hostess conducted me to a nice, 
 clean cot, into which I soon jumped, and slept that night 
 for the first time in many months between sheets ; but I 
 did not fall into sound sleep until the wee hours of morn- 
 ing had come around ; the boarders were so hilarious that 
 I was continually aroused by three cheers for our side, etc. 
 However, I finally fell into a profound sleep, and when I 
 awoke, daylight had entered my apartment, which con- 
 tained sleeping accommodations for only forty travelers. 
 
 The party who had engaged me to " come over and at- 
 tend court," told me during the morning that the " case 
 would not come off," as there was a probability of com- 
 promising the difficulty, and my services were not needed. 
 I rejoiced at this wise conclusion of the disputants, for I 
 was anxious to get home in time for our county election to 
 come ofi" next day. I had my faithful nag brought out, 
 and about 10 o'clock bade all a cordial good-bye, and 
 started ofl" in the finest style — having made by the visit, 
 for doing nothing, over 613 clear of all expenses. 
 
 I knew the road this time, and Bob seemed glad to get 
 back. Woa, woa, what's the matter now % Oh ! I see, a 
 detachment of Indians are coming, and Bob is frightened ;
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 179 
 
 but I patted him on the neck — cordially saluted the In- 
 dians — Bob galloped on, and I let him " go ahead " until 
 we reached the halfway house, which was only a tempo- 
 rary tent that could be taken down and put up in forty 
 minutes. Here I gave Robert his dinner, and then re- 
 sumed my journey. Just at the rise of the first mountain 
 I heard some one call out to me " to stop," and upon 
 looking around I saw a ferocious-looking human biped, 
 who again ordered me to stop. I knew his object, and 
 giving whip and spurs to Bobby, I left the gentleman far 
 behind. 
 
 The road was now getting more distinct ; I knew where 
 I was, not far from home on the '* hill top." I permitted 
 Robert to feed by the wayside ; but the sun had gone 
 down ; I spurred on, and soon reached Grass Valley, 
 where a host of friends gladly welcomed me back, for 
 they felt anxious concerning my safety, and still more 
 anxious about losing my vote next day.
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 AN ELECTION— CENTREYILLE RAVINE— ENEKGY OF GOLD 
 SEEKERS— THEIR HOPES-LAW MATTERS, Etc. 
 
 September, 1851. In a former chapter I gave an ac- 
 count of the first Whig convention held in Grass Valley, 
 of the unanimity which prevailed, and of the pledge each 
 member gave of working faithfully and thoroughly for the 
 party. Well, on Wednesday 4th, the election came off, 
 and the Whig and Democratic parties buckled on their 
 armor, and battled with a will for their favorite candidates. 
 The weather was propitious, and every man that could be 
 scared up, was brought to the polls and made to exercise 
 the prerogative of which freemen delight to boast. I re- 
 member a laughable incident that occurred just before the 
 polls closed. The Whig candidates had r.misgivings as to 
 the result. It is said, " straws show which way the wind 
 blows," and so not a few of us thought the gallant Whig 
 party would come off second best. 
 
 Mr. C , the Whig senatorial nominee, called upon 
 
 his friends and urged them " to keep on until the polls 
 closed, for the opposition were very active." Happening 
 to look down Mill street, I observed two men approaching, 
 
 who were at once accosted by Captain R, with the 
 
 inquiry, " whether they had voted yet? " They replied.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 181 
 
 " no sir, we are not entitled to a vote ; but if we did vote, 
 it would be for the whole Democratic ticket," The Cap- 
 tain quickly tore off the word Whig from a ticket, and said, 
 '• Come, gentlemen, you are privileged to exercise the 
 elective franchise, for the other party allow anybody to 
 
 vote." So off they marched, Captain R. , the Whig 
 
 partisan, in high glee, and as they neared the polls, some 
 one cried out, " Clear the way — let these gentlemen vote." 
 Just then a Democratic sentinel sang out, " I challenge 
 
 them men, sir." Captain E. , like the Democratic 
 
 watchman, was pretty well soaked with " bittersweet," 
 and instantly turned round, manifesting the most violent 
 rage, asked, " What right have you to interfere with these 
 gentlemen 1 " " None of your business, sir. Here, stran- 
 gers, what ticket do you vote ] " " Why, sir, if we can 
 vote, we go the entire Democracy." Here, then, was 
 laughter, and a terrible fuss created around the polls. 
 Six o'clock, the time for closing, was drawing nigh. Demo- 
 crats explained to the strangers the trick about to be 
 played upon them, and amid swearing, quarrelling, and 
 ■wrangling, they voted — the Democratic ticket ! and the 
 applause and vehement cheering of our opponents was 
 enough to enrage the whole Whig party, who, however, 
 took it in good part, and acknowledged they were out- 
 generaled.
 
 182 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 During the evening the result of the election was an- 
 nounced, and our gallant Whig party was routed — terribly 
 routed. 
 
 A meeting of miners holding claims on the Centreville 
 ravine, was held on the evening of the 8th. The pream- 
 amble and resolutions I offered were adopted. I knew 
 they would be, for at every meeting, no matter where 
 held, the resolutions which are prepared in advance, then 
 read to the meeting, are generally unanimously adopted. 
 
 Onr claims were extended to sixty feet square. This 
 was the most important resolution, and a committee was 
 appointed to survey the ravine and select a site for a 
 ditch. I was chairman of the committee, and a most ex- 
 cellent selection it was, for I knew as much about canals 
 and ditches as I did of the verbs and adverbs of the Hot- 
 tentot lingo. However, the committee next day com- 
 menced operations, surveyed the ravine and followed the 
 water course for several miles, and after consultation, ar- 
 rived at the sage conclusion " that our claims would only 
 hold out for another season, and the rainy season would 
 soon be upon us ; we respectfully recommend that we 
 leave well enough alone, and the learned committee be 
 discharged." 
 
 But seriously speaking, California has exhibited the 
 leading traits and indomitable energies of the American 
 people. The miners accomplished wonders. Think of
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 183 
 
 men unaccustomed to hard work, turning rapid running 
 rivers from the natural channel ; think of mountains ex- 
 cavated with only pick and shovel ; think of villages built 
 up with the rapidity of magic almost; think of land, 
 which had never before been upturned, now teeming with 
 barley, oats, wheat, rye, and corn; think of steamers ply- 
 ing the beautiful streams, of elegant suburban retreats, of 
 farms laid off, and thrift, and abundance everywhere mani- 
 fest ; think of Sierra Nevada itself penetrated to the very 
 centre by the American people, and all this accomplished 
 in a few years, no wonder their indomitable energy and 
 unflagging perseverance have surprised and astonished 
 the world. 
 
 Professors of Colleges, ministers of the Gospel, lawyers, 
 doctors, judges, mechanics, merchants, and bankers, 
 working with a determination and energy worthy of suc- 
 cess. No false distinctions of society ; no mushroom aris- 
 tocratic notions tolerated ; muscle, bone, and sinew were 
 everything; but yet the cultivated mind availed much, 
 for those possessing well trained intellects were enabled 
 to endure cheerfully the greatest exposures and the se- 
 verest hardships. 
 
 Towards the close of the month the weather assumed a 
 more agreeable temperature ; the sky, which appeared so 
 clear and azure-hued for many, many months, now began 
 to change, denoting, what a miner most ardently desires,
 
 184 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 the approach of the season of rain and storms. Now the 
 absent miners return ; now our village presents a more 
 cheerful appearance ; claims that were deserted are being 
 "jumped " by new comers, and claims which yielded well 
 and were watched over by the miners during the summer 
 months, are being restaked, and active preparations going 
 on for the ensuing winter. Tradesmen have returned 
 with replenished stock, and all are congratulating them- 
 selves upon the hope of securing, the coming season, suflB- 
 cient of the glittering dust to enable them to say, " in a few 
 days I am off for home." 
 
 If ever men deserved success, the California gold seek- 
 ers did ; those especially who were among the pioneers 
 of the " emigrants " — those who, amid various hardships 
 and unwritten miseries, kept up, hoped on, hoped ever — 
 and those also who " prospected " along the beautiful and 
 picturesque valleys where civilized man had never before 
 trod — where the commonest necessaries of life could bardly 
 be obtained, but pushing ahead, enduring every depriva- 
 tion, hoping, still hoping to secure the prize. 
 
 It is very common for speakers to say, " Oh, how men 
 will rush to the land of gold and endure every hardship to 
 secure filthy lucre, and yet give so little attention to the 
 salvation of their souls." But men must put forth all 
 their energies to gain a subsistence — must earn money to 
 support themselves and families, and if they can secure a
 
 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 185 
 
 competence sooner by rushing to California, the sooner they 
 can afford a comfortable support to aged parents, a wife, 
 a child, or even to some benevolent institution ; and men 
 do not always forget their religious education by striving 
 to earn money ; the truth is, every one of us, ministers 
 and tradesmen, would not refuse opportunities for accumu- 
 lating money for the beneft of ourselves and families — and 
 there is nothing sinful in so doing : the only sin is in the 
 misapplication of money and the inordinate love of it. 
 
 Eev. Mr. Williams, of the Presbyterian church, preach- 
 ed for us on Sunday 14th, morning and evening. The at- 
 tendance was good, the preacher's remarks acceptable, and 
 the order and decorum commendable. 
 
 During this month I served as a juror in many "cases at 
 law," which were chiefly brought about by disputes re- 
 garding claims, etc. 
 
 On one occasion, in the necessary absence of Judge 
 
 S from our district, the most learned judge in the 
 
 valley, a suit for damage was brought before Judge M , 
 
 who held court in his kitchen, as the other " spare room 
 the women folks wanted." The jury consisted of three 
 members, each of whom were " full of fun, fancy, and 
 drollery." When the jury agreed upon their verdict, the 
 learned esquire said : " Gentlemen of the jury, please 
 hand me your verdict." The foreman instantly arose and 
 replied : " May it please your honor, I am instructed by
 
 186 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 my fellow-jurors to demand tlieir fees prior to rendering 
 the verdict." What's this ? his honor was startled ; de- 
 manding the verdict, and told he must produce the fee 
 first ; the learned judge demurred ; he had not so under- 
 stood the law. " Perhaps, may it please the honorable 
 court, your honor has not reached that part of the law, 
 made and provided in such cases," replied a juror. His 
 honor (who was really a kind-hearted, well-meaning man, 
 but sadly deficient in matters of law,) readjusted his 
 heavy-framed German silver spectacles, wet the tips of his 
 fingers, turned over the leaves of a huge law book, and — 
 held the matter under advisement, becoming personally 
 responsible to the jurors for their fees ! 
 
 Some time afterward his honor informed us '• that he 
 had consulted with gentlemen learned in law, and they 
 bad pronounced the jury sustained by the book ; but still, 
 he thought it a mighty queer rule."
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 A CHANGE IN THE WEATHER— CALIFOKNIAN'S HOPES AND 
 TRIALS— A LAW CASE— SIGN PAINTING, Etc., Etc. 
 
 October, 1851. Three cheers ! The temperature is 
 cool and delicious, the cerulean sky has disappeared, and 
 now murky clouds are hovering over our village. Con- 
 gratulations are exchanged by the anxious miners, bright 
 visions of distant homes are rising up, and shovel, pick, 
 and spade, are the order of the day. " Come, boys, clean 
 up your claims — prepare for a last trial ; the rain will be 
 upon us soon, and let us all be prepared." I, too, sur- 
 veyed my claim, and began to "throw oflF top dirt." Talk 
 of the pleasures of hope. Why, sir, learn from Californ- 
 ians what hope is ! Pleasures of memory ! ask a Cali- 
 fornian. Oh, how I have rejoiced when some adventurous 
 spirit has accumulated his " pile," and was enabled to ex- 
 claim, " Good bye, friends ; I am bound for home, with 
 my wash bowl — in my eye." It may seem strange to 
 your readers, who have always lived at home, surrounded 
 with the comforts and luxuries of life, that so much talk 
 should be made by Californians about home, comfort, and 
 happiness, but ah ! could each Californian relate his trials, 
 his sufferings, his exposures, and his hopes and fears, what 
 harrowing tales would be unfolded. Some have been dis-
 
 188 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 appointed, some have succeeded, and others have found a 
 resting place by the hill-side ; others sleep their last sleep 
 on the far-spreading plains and prairies, where no friend 
 visits the grave, or plants the rose or lowly violet on their 
 hurriedly made sepulchres. Some, that fail, lack the 
 courage to return to their friends, but work on, work on, 
 living only in hope and the pleasurable anticipation of 
 soon finding the " big lump." There is once source of 
 happiness to the Californian, which can never be fully un- 
 derstood by friends at home ; I allude to letters — to a 
 sheet of paper, scribbled over, perhaps, carelessly by a 
 friend, who little thi)iks how each word, each crossing of 
 the T, or dotting of an I, will be dwelt upon ; how every 
 sentence is remembered, and how the rough miner throws 
 his body down on his hard pallet, with his letter secreted 
 in his bosom, and dreams, perchance, of the writer, or of 
 the pleasure of returning home, and embracing friends 
 from whom he has so long been absent. 
 
 So far as mining operations were concerned, I attended 
 to very little during this month ; in fact, I had other busi- 
 ness to engage my attention which was more profitable 
 and genial to my feelings ; still, I held on to my claims, 
 and worked just when I felt disposed. But the facilities 
 for procuring a constant supply of water throughout the 
 mining districts are now so complete that miners have 
 vastly the advantage over those who worked at the time
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 189 
 
 I am writing about ; so also with regard to mining imple- 
 ments. Now improved machinery and increased knowl- 
 edge of working claims, together with the ease of procur- 
 ing the necessaries of life, render a miner's life much more 
 comfortable, than it was during my sojourn in the " land 
 of gold." 
 
 As I was ready and willing to do anything not disreput- 
 able to add to my " bank account," I had applications to 
 perform sundry work, most of which was " Greek to me." 
 On one occasion, an acquaintance of mine hired a horse 
 for a day of an exceedingly cross-grained, ill-natured, 
 thick-pated fellow, who charged my friend with cruelly 
 treating his horse, and sued him at court, laying damages 
 at one hundr'id dollars. Now, what was to be done ? 
 Why, "employ a friend learned in law to manage the 
 case." And who toas the learned attorney selected but my- 
 self. Though frequent and unexpected demands were 
 made upon me, this request of helping a friend out of diffi- 
 culty in a suit at law, took me all aback. However, I re- 
 covered myself, and determined to carry out my resolve of 
 attending to any business with which I might be entrusted. 
 The papers were lianded me. I looked them over, and 
 really, everything seemed more difficult than reading He- 
 brew poetry. I told the judge that he might anticipate a 
 rare treat, for I was going to " astonish the crowd with 
 my maiden speech." His honor was delighted, and pro-
 
 190 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 mised all the assistance I might require. Before the hour 
 for " spouting " arrived, I gave notice to my friends to be 
 on hand at the justice's office, and I would furnish them 
 with fine sport, for I had undertalien the profession of law, 
 and was about to defend my client at all hazards. 
 
 Now for the joke of the story. When I appeared in the 
 court-room, armed with papers, documents, and sur- 
 charged with a fiery speech, what should I see but my 
 client sitting side by side with a magistrate in close con- 
 versation, evidently about to settle the case without the 
 learned counsel's advice. A significant nod from my 
 friend told me a compromise was going on, and instead of 
 practicing law, I was sivorn in as constable, and ordered to 
 summon six good and reliable citizens to appear before 
 the honorable court in twenty-five minutes or be sub- 
 jected, the whole posse of us, to a fine of twenty-five dol- 
 lars each. " Oh, what a fall was there, my countrymen ! " 
 
 I obeyed the order of the court, and brought in six 
 "good and reliable citizens," most of whom tried to beg 
 off", but the court, through its " indefatigable police," must 
 be obeyed. The result of the matter was a satisfactory 
 compromise without going to trial, an exorbitant fee paid 
 over to the constable (myself) from my client, and a re- 
 commendation from the honorable court to " let off my 
 speech on the next Fourth of July." 
 
 Sometimes I tried my hand at sign-painting, receiving
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 191 
 
 only fifty cents a letter — and such letters ! The first sign 
 I was ordered to paint was for a grocery establishment ; 
 there were three partners, and not having much experi- 
 ence in the painting business, I could not tell how much 
 muslin was required, as I had not decided upon the size 
 of the letters. So I managed in this way — a friend al- 
 lowed me to take a piece of musin and chalk off the let- 
 ters, and then cut off the quantity needed. When I had 
 marked off half the letters, I had to stop again to meas- 
 ure the house, lest I might have the sign wider than the 
 house ; but I hit the width pretty well, and in due time 
 had the sign ready for the paint. Well, where could I 
 procure the paint and brushes ] Ah, another friend came 
 to my rescue, and soon I was daubing the muslin secundmn 
 artem, finished the sign, tacked it up, amid the cheers and 
 quizzing remarks of my friends who were standing below 
 enjoying the scene. 
 
 The same firm had another order for me, to paint them 
 in large letters, '' Hay, oats and barley for sale here." I 
 commenced it at once, and the next day I was paid partly 
 in money and partly in groceries, and my larder was better 
 filled than at any time previously during my stay in 
 California.
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 THE WEATHER— BURGLARS— A BLACK BEAR AROUND— A 
 PARTY OF PLEASURE. 
 
 November, 1851. The dry season seemed interminable. 
 Only occasional showers during this month, and many 
 were under the impression that if the rain did not pour 
 down very soon, we might, indeed, " hang up our pick and 
 shovel." The temperature was agreeable; the sun, 
 which had shone forth so brilliantly, unobstructed by a 
 single passing cloud, was now frequently obscured from 
 view by dark clouds, which threatened heavy rains. But 
 the men exercised commendable patience, and very many 
 who were loudest in their complaints at the absence of wa- 
 ter, were uncertain of more than paying expenses, if the ra- 
 vines had been full of water. But all had their hopes, 
 and each man would have been rejoiced to witness the 
 success of his friend ; for the peculiar life of a Californian 
 made us all a community of friends. 
 
 There are many laughable incidents connected with my 
 life in California, and what may now appear ludicrous and 
 mirth-provoking, then seemed hard and almost insupport- 
 able. We were all very much annoyed by rats which in- 
 fested our cabins, and various were the expedients resorted 
 to, to rid us of our troublesome guests. Some of my ac-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 193 
 
 quaintances constructed " dead falls," and had the satisfac- 
 tion of finding every morning several rats completely 
 trapped. 
 
 One night I thought I heard some one in my cabin. I 
 was all alone on the hill — had neither gun nor pistol, nor 
 even a thimble-full of powder. I sang out, " Who is there V 
 No answer. Just then down tumbled a fine ham I had 
 just purchased. Ah, you thieves ! I'll catch you now. 
 I struck a light, looked all around, but no one was in sight ; 
 I examined the ham, and soon cleared up the mystery in 
 this way — viz. : I had tied a string to the ham, and sus- 
 pended it about a foot from the rafter, so that Mr. Rat 
 could not reach it ; but the cunning thief took the matter 
 into consideration, crept along the rafter, and doubtless 
 thought, " I'll just gnaw the string, down will tumble the 
 ham, and then I can follow after and eat my fill." But 
 Mr. Rat was unacquainted with the science of acoustics, 
 for the fall of the meat aroused me, and ** I saved my 
 bacon." 
 
 On another night a furious storm was raging, and every- 
 body comfortably housed, or ought to have been, and al- 
 though the rain was beating hard upon the roof of my 
 cabin, and blowing through the crevices, I still antici- 
 pated a refreshing night's rest, and doubtless would have 
 slept soundly until "broad daylight," had not "an alarm- 
 ing midnight " scene occurred, which aroused me so thor-
 
 194 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 oughly from my slumbers that I did not care to sleep 
 again that night. 
 
 I was lying upon my back enjoying a delightful nap, 
 when suddenly down tumbled one, two, three, rascally, cow- 
 ardly burglars on top of me. I sprang up, and a terrible 
 fuss was made in my cabin. The intruders knew they 
 aroused me, and were trying their best to escape, and the 
 balance of their companions were rushing madly over the 
 roof. By the time I struck a light the scamps were ofF, 
 and on reconnoitering, I found that my disturbers were 
 big Norway rats, who were " traveling around," or else 
 seeking shelter from the storm, and chanced to get on my 
 roof, and without intending it, broke through the shingles, 
 and were, perhaps, more frightened than I was myself. 
 Bnt the rain was pouring in much too fast, so I had to go 
 out, hunt up boards, or anything else convenient, that 
 would answer to stop the leak, and all the satisfaction I 
 could get in relating my misfortunes to my neighbors was 
 a hearty ♦' haw, haw, haw ! " 
 
 But on another evening I found an opportunity to turn 
 the laugh upon my neighbors. I was sleeping at a " 2.40 " 
 rate when rap, rap, rap, was sounded at my door. I called 
 out, who's there 1 " Get up, get up — a huge bear is around 
 my cabin, and we'll have a fine chance to kill him." 
 Well, kill him then ; he does not trouble me, and beside, I 
 have neither gun nor pistol. " Well, get up at any rate."
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 195 
 
 I arose from my downy — I should say, pine-stem couch — 
 looked out, but it was as dark as Iser ; however, we sal- 
 lied out — " brave Saxon warriors" — looked here and there, 
 but no Mr. Bruin could we see, and I teased the party for 
 a long time, declaring they took a " lame duck " for a 
 black bear ! 
 
 As our population increased, some amusement was ne- 
 cessary to render our stay in the mountains agreeable. 
 The long evenings were tedious. Young men longed for 
 sport and pleasant recreations ; and I will here remark, 
 then and there would have been the opportunity to have 
 started prayer-meetings ; then would have been the time 
 to have exercised the mi)id upon holy and righteous mat- 
 ters ; but we had no pious missionaries among us ; men 
 acted according to their earlier training, and I cheerfully 
 accord to them the highest credit for conducting them- 
 selves honorably and gentlemanly, and with pleasure give 
 my testimony to the correct deportment and honorable 
 bearing at all times evinced by American travelers. 
 
 Well, any little excitement was always agreeable to the 
 permanent population, and when it was announced that 
 the "Alta Saloon " would open with a fashionable cotillion 
 party, our youth of both sexes were delighted. I had 
 never attended, up to that time, a " Ball " in my life, and 
 could have been put down as a " green one." 
 
 On Tuesday 18th, the Ball took place, and as many
 
 196 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 persons are not acquainted with the modus operandi of 
 balls, cotillion parties, etc,, I will daguerreotype, for their 
 benefit, ours. After nine o'clock, the ladies and their gal- 
 lants began to assemble ; in the meanwhile, the rougher 
 sex were indulging in the " ardent." About 10 o'clock 
 the leader of the orchestra gave the signal, the band 
 struck up "Washington's March, and the company formed 
 in line, and marched into the hall two by two. After they 
 had paraded around for some time, they were dismissed, 
 only to be instantly summoned together by the floor man- 
 ager, who sang out — " Make ready for a Spanish dance," 
 whew ! how the youth and beauty rushed to the floor, and 
 stood like statuary awaiting the signal to trip it on " the 
 light fantastic toe." 
 
 Such bowing and smiling as each participant extended 
 to the other seemed excessively Frenchy and ludicrous. 
 The violin sounded, and away flew the dancers, now here, 
 now there, and then "way over yonder," which almost be- 
 wildered the verdant " looker-on." I expected every mo- 
 ment they would run over each other, but they didn't ; and 
 when the cotillion was over, they appeared as fresh and 
 delighted as though they had not been exercising at all. 
 And the dancing was kept up until midnight, when the 
 whole party marched in procession across the street to the 
 "Beatty House," and partook of an elegant supper, 
 " which was fit for a king to enjoy." After eating and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 197 
 
 drinking, the company returned to the ball-room, and con- 
 tinued their dancing and pleasure until daylight ; every 
 one seemed to have enjoyed the evening entertainment, 
 and I know I enjoyed a comfortable nap the next morning. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 THE WEATHER — APPEARANCE OF CENTREYILLE RAVINE 
 
 DURING THE MINING SEASON— A WALK IN THE 
 
 DARK, AND A LEAP INTO THE CREEK. 
 
 Decemher, 1851. In my last chapter I mentioned that 
 every one was anxiously hoping for heavy rains to fill the 
 creeks and ravines, and sure enough, if it came later than 
 wished for, the gates of heaven seemed to have opened this 
 month, and everything was as thoroughly saturated as 
 though it had been raining for the last ten months. Dur- 
 ing this month I found my elegant cabin about as com- 
 fortable as a house without a roof. The wind blew hard, 
 and consequently drove the rain through the numerous 
 crevices, extinguishing my fire, preventing me from mak- 
 ing cofiFee, and to add to my misfortunes, my Chinese- 
 looking chimney could not withstand the wind and rain, 
 and down it tumbled '' sans ceremonie," compelling me to 
 undergo a shower-bath while repairing it. 
 During the earlier part of the month I frequently found
 
 19S SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 the water in my bucket covered with ice ; and those 
 mornings when the storm appeared most violent I, like 
 many others, remained in bed, deeming it the most com- 
 fortable quarters. 
 
 Well, the creeks and ravines soon afforded water to 
 start the machines, and if ever men worked industriously, 
 those men were the Centreville ravine miners ; for they 
 well knew, from the location of the ravine, a supply of 
 water could only be depended upon for one or two months. 
 What a sight for the uninitiated to look upon ! what an inter- 
 esting panorama was presented to the stranger in that same 
 Centreville ravine during the " wet season." Over there 
 a party of men " kiotying," digging down some ten or fif- 
 teen feet following the " lead," carefully throwing back 
 the dirt, then hauling it to the top, and then running it 
 through the " long-tom " in "less than no time." Still 
 further over there a party of Kentuckians working away 
 in the happiest humor — standing in mud, pitching up the 
 dirt and stones, and washing it out ; and hear that loud 
 laugh — see those men dancing around, and as happy as 
 mortals can be ; why, they are the slaves of that tall Ken- 
 tuckian — they love their master, they know no care nor 
 trouble, and seem to live upon the rule — that " sufficient 
 unto the day is the evil thereof;" and next to these are 
 two young men from Ohio ; they heed not the heavy rain ; 
 they work from early dawn until twilight j they have
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 199 
 
 promised their families to return home next summer, and if 
 hard work, and judicious deportment avail, they are safe for 
 a delightful reunion" with friends who may doubtless be 
 counting the days and hours yet to intervene before they 
 expect to reach their " home, sweet home." See that 
 party of happy and cheerful young men to the right of the 
 ravine — don't they work with a will ? Not a man of the 
 party had ever handled the pick or shovel before, but 
 they work steadily, and diffuse a cheerful feeling all 
 around them. They are from " down east." And hear 
 that other party near by them ; Ah, don't they take it 
 easy ? How they talk, laugh, and wrangle ; why they 
 are blacks, and were it not for the influence of their white 
 neighbors, I question whether they would work at all. 
 
 Mount that pile of stones and look around you. Here 
 comes the water dashing along, not, however, without 
 being tapped by a hundred men, every one of whom is 
 toiling, sweating and exposing himself in the rain, but 
 never mind, the climate is healthy, and the cry is heard, 
 "Boys, now is your chance or never." But see, the men 
 quit work — the ravine is deserted; look up, see the smoke 
 issuing from the fancifully built chimneys of the various 
 rudely-constructed cabins — the miners are preparing din- 
 ner. After awhile they return to their work ; the rain is 
 still pouring down, but it does not prevent the miners 
 from working ; splash, toss, pitch, and shovel, are re-
 
 200 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 echoed through the woods the entire afternoon ; and now 
 as the day wanes, and the work is over, each one looks 
 anxiously at the '' ripple box," the tell-tale of their day's 
 labor. The majority go to their cabins ; a few remain at 
 their claims to " pan out." 
 
 By-and-by the ravine is deserted ; the shades of night 
 are lowering over the village of huts ; all around is dark 
 and still ; there, a light is struck in the cabin yonder — 
 what a blazing fire ! the miners are drying their clothes, 
 preparing their supper, and dividing their day's profit. 
 Let us look in upon them ; the supper is over, the dishes 
 are hastily placed in an old box, the pipes are lit, the 
 wearied miners are enjoying their rest — one reads, an- 
 other mends his clothes, another examines his pistols, and 
 the rest talk, sing, and " kill time " as best suits them. 
 Let us go further ; never mind the storm. Look out ! you 
 are 'nearing a deep hole ; stand back ; get down on all 
 fours ; feel your way ; why, where are you ? never mind ; 
 now, get up, we have passed the most dangerous holes; 
 the town is near, let us stroll around and observe the 
 movements of the people. What building is that 1 why, 
 that is the Beatty House ; the stage stops' there; it is ike 
 hotel of the town; our fast young men "do most congre- 
 gate there." But where is that music ? look across the 
 street, don't you see that elegant saloon ? Did you sup- 
 pose that we, high up in the mountains, supported such a
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 201 
 
 fine establishment ? Come, we will enter ; see how beau- 
 tiful, what tasteful paper covers the walls ; how elegant 
 the whole room appears ; what comfortable seats ; what 
 strong temptations to the unwary ; see, those tables are 
 loaded with pure, genuine coin ; those men, looking so 
 clever and cheerful, are professional gamblers, and the 
 rest standing around are betting and losing their hard- 
 earned money. But come, let us leave the excited crowd 
 and seek our cabins. 
 
 My friend Young occasionally occupied an old cabin ad- 
 joining mine, and when my duties detained me " down 
 town " until a late hour, friend Young would wait for me 
 and act as an escort. I had told him of the great difficulty 
 of reaching my cabin, for the nights were dark and the 
 road so cut up by the miners, that twice the time was con- 
 sumed in returning home at night." " Oh, my dear sir," 
 Young would say, " I can pilot you along the holes and 
 ditches almost as well as by daylight." So one night 
 after a furious rain storm, which filled the holes and 
 ditches with water, Young and I started for our cabins. 
 The night was dark, so dark that we could not see our 
 hand before us. " Come along, doctor, I'll guide you 
 safe, just follow me." On we walked at ihejcist rate of 
 Brazilian sloths until we came to a ditch about two feet 
 wide, filled about three feet deep with water. I knew the 
 
 place, for I had crossed it before ; my plan was to give a 
 9*
 
 202 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 vigorous jump, and then get down on all fours, and cross a 
 temporary bridge some miners had erected for their 
 special convenience ; but that night I humored my friend, 
 and allowed him to have his own way. " Stand still, doc- 
 tor, here is a creek, you will have to jump ; keep firm and 
 and you will land safe." I soon discovered my pilot was 
 nonplussed, but I let him take his own way. He stop- 
 ped, then straightened himself, and jumped right plump 
 into the water. I fell back laughing ; I could not help it ; 
 but soon recovered myself, and assisted him out. Whilst 
 he was lamenting his bad piloting, I prepared for a jump. 
 Now, Colonel, stand back there! I cleared the stream, 
 and stood safe on the opposite bank ; but both of us were 
 compelled to crawl and feel our way. Hold up, Young ; 
 keep still, I am on the edge of a deep hole. Now, keep to 
 the right, a few more paces and we are safe. Ever after- 
 ward my friend carried a lantern, and we reached our 
 cabins with more ease. The reason that I carried no 
 light was because I was usually the sole occupant of the 
 mountain, and I was supposed to carry money about me ; 
 and to tell the truth, I feared bad men more than I did a 
 tumble into a ditch !
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 THE NEW YEAR— RETURN OF FORMER CITIZENS— NEWS- 
 PAPERS— MISHAPS AND FATAL RESULTS. 
 
 January, 1852. Here commenced another year, and 
 like many others, I asked myself, where shall I be at its 
 close ! and were I to scribble down but a moiety of the reflec- 
 tions which occurred to me then, I should fill this chapter 
 with a dull sermon, interesting only to the writer. But 
 abruptly dismissing the subject, I proceed at once to write 
 out the various incidents that came under a miner's ob- 
 servation and experience. 
 
 First in order come the remarks on the weather, prob- 
 ably uninteresting to the general reader — but as a " faith- 
 ful journalist " I must " make my observations." "We 
 had supposed that this month would have brought a suc- 
 cession of rain and storms — we had expected that, until 
 the close of the mining season, every ditch and creek 
 would have overflown with water ; but not so. We had 
 very little rain, and as lovely weather as man could have 
 desired. Those miners who worked exclusively in "quartz 
 diggings," were highly elated at the summer-like weather 
 which this month brought, and those miners who worked 
 in ravines, would have rejoiced had the rain descended
 
 204 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 nearly the whole time ; but ultimately all were pleased, 
 and each man worked with a will and energy worthy of 
 the greatest success. During this month some of our citi- 
 zens who had visited the " Eastern States," returned, ac- 
 companied by their wives and little ones, and these 
 occasional arrivals of respectable ladies among us, exer- 
 cised a marked improvement in the "manners and customs" 
 of our heterogeneous population. 
 
 Whenever a former citizen arrived from the " East," 
 he was at once surrounded by his acquaintances, and thor- 
 oughly questioned as to the events and occurrences that 
 had transpired, and entreated for " a loan of the news- 
 papers ; " and speaking of newspapers, reminds me how 
 eagerly they were read over, how thoioughly they were 
 scanned with the hope of finding even a " a single para- 
 graph " which might relate to this or that place, where 
 the reader had lived or visited. The New York Herald 
 and Tribune, New Orleans Delta and True Delta, were 
 the papers most sought after ; they retailed at from fifty 
 cents to one dollar each, according to the supply. And 
 who can wonder at the miners' being so interested about 
 news from home 1 Were they not thousands of miles 
 away 1 And does not every traveler, when far away from 
 those he loved and esteemed, continually think and dream 
 about his absent friends ? and that constant thought of 
 huuie, keeps the nervous system in continued feverish ex-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 205 
 
 citement and longing solicitude. I have often thought, 
 whenever a person evinces a disposition to leave his home, or 
 to tire of those who know and love him, that it would be well 
 to send him off into some distant, half civilized community, 
 and there, deprived of the comforts of home, and the com- 
 panionship of long-tried and well known friends, it would 
 cure him of a feverish, unsatisfied, and discontented dis- 
 position. 
 
 Until within a short time, the path to ray " solitary 
 abode on the mountain top," was clear and " well defined ;" 
 but now, as I have stated, that mode of mining resorted to 
 by some, termed '• kiotyiug," very materially interfered 
 with my evening walks homeward. Often I was com- 
 pelled to feel my way on " all fours," and being near- 
 sighted, I frequently jumfed into a fuddle of water sup- 
 posing it to he a stone! One dark and dreary night, 
 when returning to my lone cabin, feeling my way, I made 
 
 a leap, and alighted right in the water ! Down, 
 
 down 1 sank, until I was engulphed in liquid mud up to 
 my arm-pits ; fortunately I touched bottom, or T should 
 have drowned, and no one near to lend a helping hand. 
 Murder ! murder ! ! murder ! ! ! I cried lustily, but no an- 
 swer. Again and again I called, help ! help ! ! help ! ! ! 
 and still no answer, no help. Theni became unconscious. 
 I had no fears ; I was benumbed ; the cold temperature of 
 the foul liquid mud had chilled my entire system, and
 
 206 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 deadened all my faculties. Thus I remained until day- 
 light, when an acquaintance, going out to procure fresh 
 water, observed me, and with awful yelh, called up the 
 miners, who, in their kind efforts to pull me out, declared 
 that my hones cracked as though a pistol had been fired 
 off ! I have elsewhere described that system of mining 
 termed " kiotying," but it may not be inappropriate to say 
 now, that even during daylight, after a hard rain, many 
 persons refused to walk over the portion of ground thus 
 worked. 
 
 A day or two subsequent to the unpleasant accident I 
 
 have just related, Dr. was passing over nearly the 
 
 same ground on bis way to dinner. He anticipated no un- 
 toward accident ; the ground seemed solid, and he could 
 avoid the " dangerous passes." But look out ! See there ! 
 A man has tumbled into a hole ! Run men, run. There 
 was the gallant doctor, more scared than hurt, almost hid 
 from view, embraced by liquid mud. He was soon extri- 
 cated, and like myself, did not bless those miners who bur- 
 rowed under the ground at the risk of men's lives. 
 
 Sometimes fatal accidents occurred, which exemplified 
 the old adage, that " in the midst of life we are in death." 
 A miner was on his way to his cabin full of hope and joy- 
 ful expectation, thinking of no accident, perhaps thinking 
 of his absent family and the pleasure of soon meeting them ; 
 but, ah, how little all of us reflect upon the uncertainties
 
 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 207 
 
 of life ! How little we think that in the "twinkling of an 
 eye" we may be launched into eternity ! Well, away he 
 sped over the meadow and valley, until he reached his 
 claim. He saluted his associates, and as their claim was 
 worked some forty feet below the surface, it was necessary 
 to descend in a bucket by means of a windlass ; it was his 
 turn to go down ; he took his place in the bucket, and as he 
 was being lowered, his innocent laugh seemed to re-echo 
 around the deep cavern ; he promised to send up '♦ paying 
 dirt," but crack, crack, snapped the rope — down he fell, 
 and in a little while was brought up dead. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 CONSIDEKABLE TALK ABOUT LEAVING CALIFOKNIA— OUR 
 POPULATION, &c., &c. 
 
 February and March, 1852. Well, I had at last de- 
 cided upon returning home, and fixed upon the ensuing 
 month of April for starting ; and yet, kind friends urged 
 me to stay ; they told me of the thousands that were on 
 their way hither; they told me of the impossibility of 
 realizing one half the happiness I anticipated, in leaving 
 California and returning to my kindred, and they urged me 
 to " stay yet a little longer," and wait further develop- 
 ments ; but my mind was made up, I had seen " the ele-
 
 208 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 phant" in all his phases ; I had traversed the hills and 
 valleys of Callifornia where previously white men had 
 never ventured ; I had worked faithfully, often beyond my 
 strength, and I had succeeded better than I had a right to 
 expect, and I felt that I must seek the society of those 
 whom I hoped still loved and remembered me ; but pri- 
 vately, I had not the same buoyant spirits as many others, 
 for I had really no home on earth ; my parents had long 
 since found rest and peace in heaven ; but I still felt an 
 uncontrollable desire to visit my native place, where I 
 fondly believed some few were waiting patiently for my 
 return. Therefore, my readers may soon expect a termi- 
 nation of " the incidents of a miner's life ;" but now in lieu 
 thereof, I will take them on another voyage ; we will visit 
 other countries, see strange sights and customs, and finally 
 reach the great metropolis, New York. 
 
 The weather during February and March was delight- 
 ful — in truth, the winter just ended, with the exception of 
 a few days of rain and wind, was far more agreeable than 
 the preceding summer. The facilities for mining were 
 never more favorable, and miners lost no time in working 
 out their claims ; still a large number of men, when night 
 set in, donned their best attire, and frequented the cotil- 
 lion parties, and succeeded so well in driving " dull care 
 away," that a stranger could not have recognized in the
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 209 
 
 well-dressed and oftentimes polished gentleman, the hardy, 
 industrious, and rough-looking miner. 
 
 Our population embraced representatives trom various 
 quarters of the globe. We had the polite and volatile 
 Frenchman, ready for " a trip on the light fantastic toe," 
 or to cook you a dinner a la Soyer. The tall, haughty, and 
 well proportioned John Bull, who never " saw anything to 
 equal her most gracious Majesty's possessions on land and 
 sea." The Emerald Isle also was well represented by 
 delegates who could handle the pick and shovel as 
 easily as they could assure you that they " niver 
 saw a finer fellow in all their life than that mon there ;" 
 and we had the economical and industrious German, 
 who delighted as much in his pipe and krout, seem- 
 ingly, as he did in hoarding up his earnings ; and the Jew, 
 he was around offering clothing " at less price than you 
 could buy the raw material," and last, and least respect- 
 ed, we had a numerous delegation from the " flowery king- 
 dom," the weasel-eyed Chinamen. But I never disliked 
 them as many others did ; they never interfered in our 
 national or municipal politics, and invariably minded their 
 own business ; which commendable characteristic some 
 others might have imitated. They were clannish, because 
 they were entirely unacquainted with our language and 
 customs ; but their desires were moderate ; knowing the 
 animosity at all times evinced towards them, they quietly
 
 210 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 took possession of discarded claims, or else took pre-emp- 
 tion right over ground, with which none other would have 
 been content. I never knew a Chinaman to purchase any 
 but black tea. " Me want black tea, green tea no good ;" 
 and when they purchased boots, something by the way, 
 they hardly ever saw until they reached America, they al- 
 ways selected a pair twice the size of their feet ; they ap- 
 peared when walking to shove their feet along ; their cloth- 
 ing was of the deepest indigo-blue color, and their bump 
 of curiosity seemed largely developed, for they were al- 
 ways peeping around, gazing curiously at the doings and 
 workings of American men and machinery. 
 
 At this period, dogs were a rarity, and commanded an 
 exorbitant price. A German "just from Berlin," brought 
 with him a fine specimen of the canine species, for which 
 he was offered, but refused four hundred dollars. One 
 day while he was sauntering through the woods adjacent 
 to Centreville, his pet dog running by his side, some mis- 
 creant either intentionally or by accident, shot his only 
 friend, his faithful dog, dead, and the poor man seemed as 
 much distressed as though one of his immediate kindred 
 had been killed. 
 
 I had disposed of my claims and implements, and devo- 
 ted my time to fluting, doctoring, merchandizing, law quib- 
 bling, and speculating in rocks and sand, and my pecuni- 
 ary receipts were greater than ever ; and now that I had
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 211 
 
 determined to leave California, the life I had led seemed 
 almost enchanting, especially when listening to the sweet 
 carols of the numerous beautiful little birds that built their 
 nests in the trees, surrounding my cabin, and greeted me 
 with their morning songs. But I began to wonder how 
 such an one was doing, and who still lived to remember me, 
 and who was laid in the silent grave. I contrasted my 
 present feelings with those I experienced when I first 
 landed in California ; then all was doubt and uncertainty ; 
 then I missed the familiar faces of the friends I had left 
 behind, and thought only of the pleasures of home. Now 
 I felt mingled pain and pleasure, pain at parting from men 
 and things that had become familiar to me, and pleasure 
 at the delightful prospect of soon grasping by the hand, 
 friends for whom I entertained undying attachment ; in 
 short, it all seemed as a dream, as though the earth was 
 one grand theatre, and I enacting some subordinate part, 
 and here closes my sketches of " life among the miners."
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 LEAVING THE MINES— BOUND FOR SACRAMENTO— INCI- 
 DENTS ALONG THE ROUTE, &c., &c. 
 
 The sun still lingered below the eastern horizon, the 
 miners had not yet aroused from their slumbers, when, on 
 the 25th of April, 1852, 1 stepped out of my humble cabin 
 and looked around the valley where I had dwelt so many 
 months — where I had worked, toiled, hoped and prayed. 
 It was my last morning at the mines, my last look around 
 a spot where I had enjoyed much pleasure, and had formed 
 many agreeable acquaintances. 
 
 But at length the population gradually awoke from their 
 slumbers, the lurid smoke from the numerous cabins began 
 to ascend, and I gave a last look around the rude cabin 
 that had sheltered me for many a night. I gazed again 
 and again, and still once more, for the last time, upon the 
 trees which I had planted, and with a sincere, heartfelt 
 good bye, raised my bundle, turned away and left my Cali- 
 fornia home forever ! 
 
 I had engaged a seat in an uncovered wagon bound for 
 Sacramento. Bidding a cordial farewell to friends stand- 
 ing around, I jumped to my seat beside the driver, who 
 cracked his whip, and away we drove " over the hills and
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 213 
 
 far away," and I could scarcely realize the fact that at 
 last, after a long and tedious absence, after days of hoping 
 and toiling, that I was on ray way home. Aware of the 
 inconvenience of much baggage, I carried only blankets, 
 a change of linen, and my journal, and strange as it may 
 appear, I experienced none of those happy feelings I had 
 anticipated. 
 
 Our first stopping place was "Rough and Ready, de- 
 scribed in former pages. I was not aware of any neces- 
 sity for our holding up here, unless to afford all hands an 
 opportunity to take a swallow of the " ardent," smack their 
 lips and light their pipes. Jehu seized the reins, sang out 
 " git up !" and off we trotted. 
 
 I observed a passenger sitting quietly behind me, whose 
 countenance indicated sobriety, manliness and respecta- 
 bility, although his garments were " all tattered and torn." 
 Engaging in conversation, I learned his history. He had a 
 month previously arrived here, had left a home, and a com- 
 petency, for a ramble among the " highlands and lowlands" 
 of California ; and if in his wanderings he could secure a 
 more comfortable dwellingrplace than the home he left, he 
 would settle down and send for his family ; but ah ! he 
 had not thoroughly appreciated the comforts he once en- 
 joyed; but he had since learned "to let well enough 
 alone." He was on his way home, and expected that 
 when his family would think it time to receive a letter
 
 214 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 from him, he would surprise them by presenting him- 
 self. 
 
 No particular incidents occurred during the morning to 
 engage our attention. The sun was obscured by clouds, 
 and occasionally a cold mist descended, which did not tend 
 to enliven my sober feelings. We stopped at noon at the 
 Zinc House for dinner, but soon again resumed our seats in 
 the wagon. Towards the close of the day the sky became 
 clear, the many beautiful flowers along the roadside 
 seemed to smile upon us, saying, " come and gather us." 
 Our driver whistled, sang and talked ; he spurred on his 
 horses, and we traveled along at a rapid pace ; the reason 
 was, "Jehu's" desire to reach the tavern a few miles 
 ahead before the crowd came along. Now, the drivers 
 along the route know the best inns, and the landlords al- 
 ways receive them kindly ; for they find it to their interest 
 to encourage the knights of the whip. 
 
 Our driver, with whom I became quite intimate, told 
 me, "I'll take you to a tip-top house," and in due time we 
 reached a house, which a sign swinging on high informed 
 us was " Good's Kentucky House," Here we stopped, 
 lodged and breakfasted. Our lodging room contained over 
 a dozen cots, and some of thon accommodated two lodgers. 
 My bill was $2.25, quite reasonable, and when we took our 
 seats in our " uncovered baggage wagon" early in the 
 morning, we drove ahead with the delightful prospect of a
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 215 
 
 clear, beautiful day. On our route, -which was over the 
 Sacramento plains, we feasted our eyes upon the largest, 
 and most gorgeous flowers that we had so far come across. 
 I would now and then trouble the driver to " hold his 
 horses," and let the " wagon wait for me," until I had 
 filled my pockets with the prettiest. 
 
 At noon we reached the " Star Hotel." Here we met 
 a large number of Chinese on their way to the mines ; pa- 
 tient, dull and good-natured fellows, all precisely alike in 
 dress, manners and appearance. We dined at the " Star," 
 price 75 cents ; a capital dinner, clever landlord, and 
 obliging waiters. After we were fed and rested, our cap- 
 tain, the driver, sang out, " get aboard," and away we 
 went in fine style, until we came within sight of Sacra- 
 mento. 
 
 The cost of my ride in the " slow but sure" line was six 
 dollars. I was recommended by a friend in Grass Valley 
 to stop at the " Lafayette House," and taking my bundle 
 under my arm, I sought out the hotel, engaged board and 
 lodging, and had no reason to regret my selection. 
 
 The boarders were generally an old-fashioned, sober set, 
 who corresponded admirably with the " landlady and her 
 sister-in-law ;" but the appearance of the house and its 
 entire furniture and accommodations were in striking 
 contrast with the gorgeously embellished flash restaurants 
 and hotels " around the corner." Our street, although but
 
 216 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 four or five years in existence, looked as though it had seen 
 fifty summers come and go again. The reason was, that 
 in the hurry to put up houses to accommodate the numer- 
 ous impatient applicants, paint was left in the pot, instead 
 of being applied to the buildings. 
 
 Tuesday, April 27. — I may have slept last night, but I 
 cannot remember enjoying even a short nap. Fleas, mus- 
 quitoes, and et cetera, appeared' anxious to find out which 
 could present me with the " most bills." Glad, indeed, 
 was I when the glorious sun arose, and by its light ena- 
 bled me to get up, walk out, and escape the numerous 
 insects which had tormented me at night. Last evening 
 the citizens held a large meeting in relation to the great 
 influx of the •' long tail " Chinamen ; but I could not 
 " feel " the necessity of driving them out of the country, 
 when other foreigners are cordially invited and wel- 
 comed. 
 
 Understanding that the old, half-worn-out steamer 
 Orient would pass Sacramento, I engaged passage for 
 San Francisco ; but, with several others I lounged about 
 the wharf until midnight, and yet no Orient appeared ; so 
 I returned to the Lafayette, to wait until the regular 
 steamer, the Antelope, sailed.
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 SACRAMENTO CITY— DEPARTURE FOR SAN FRANCISCO— INCI- 
 DENT ON BOARD THE STEAMER— ARRIVAL AT THE MET- 
 ROPOLITAN CITY— ENGAGE PASSAGE FOR PANAMA- 
 FIRE ON BOARD THE STEAMER, &c,, &c. 
 
 Wednesday, April 2Sth, 1852. — Sacramento had wonder- 
 fully improved since I last passed through the city. Fine 
 wide streets, profusely supplied stores, magnificent hotels 
 and restaurants, and a levee which afforded protection 
 from the inundations of the Sacramento river. 1 noticed 
 lying on the wharf a large number of sturgeons and many 
 other large sized fish, which were caught in the river, and 
 produced considerable revenue to those persons engaged 
 in following the profession of " Isaac Walton." Eiding 
 at anchor were a large number of vessels. 
 
 On shore a striking similitude to the wharves around 
 New York city, was observable. What an enterprising, 
 thorough-going people — how rapidly they have pushed on to 
 wealth and luxury ! But five years ago this bustling city, 
 now teeming with life, was one vast plain — a wilderness. 
 
 Tsaw the hospitable Capt. Sutter ; he whose lands first 
 
 revealed the glittering metal that was secreted beneath the 
 
 clods and rocks of California; and yet the discovery did 
 
 not enrich him ; his generous desire to benefit his fellow- 
 10
 
 218 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 men only resulted in Ms own loss ; hut I have since learn- 
 ed that the Legislature of California has made him 
 ample restitution. 
 
 I lingered around the spacious and gaudily embellished 
 saloons, and watched the eager crowds, observing that 
 all — all, were bent upon acquiring money, money, money. 
 Hark ! the steamer has arrived, I hastened to the wharf, 
 and saw at least five hundred Chinamen landing, on their 
 way to the mines. Poor fellows, they were about to dwell 
 in a land whose customs and manners were entirely dis- 
 similar to those of their own flowery kingdom, and they knew 
 they had to contend with the deep prejudice of the Ameri- 
 can settlers ; they knew that they were disfranchised ; but 
 yet they had heard of the probability of accumulating 
 money in a short time — in truth, fifty times faster than 
 they could in their own country. 
 
 I settled my bill at the Lafayette House, and before 
 long stood upon the forward deck of the steamer Antelope, 
 awaiting the order of the Captain " to let go hauser, and 
 'bout ship." About 3 o'clock the " steam was let off"," the 
 wheels began to revolve, and we headed for the Bay of 
 San Francisco. 
 
 I found several of my California acquaintances on board, 
 and as the evening was damp and chilly, and the wind 
 high.gmost of us sought the " between decks." I have 
 never witnessedga more doleful and melancholy party—
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 219 
 
 and wherefore ? "Were we not going home 1 Had not 
 our expectations been fulfilled 1 But ah ! not until now 
 did our true position press upon us ; not until now, when 
 we were " homeward bound," did we realize the length of 
 time we had been absent, and begin to dread the changes 
 that may have occurred during our absence. But away 
 we steamed ; now dodging a high bank, and then narrowly 
 escaping running aground. On, on we sailed, until we 
 arrived " safe and sound " at the wharf in San Francisco 
 about 10 o'clock at night. 
 
 And here again what changes — what wonderful and 
 almost incredible improvements had been successfully 
 carried through, since my last visit. Carriages were in 
 waiting to carry passengers to the different hotels ; but 
 taking my " blue bag " under my arm, and accompanied 
 by my Ohio adventurer, 1 steered in a " bee line " for 
 Smith's Temperance House. The room allotted to us 
 was comfortably furnished, but the table was miserably 
 supplied ; however, unlike others I cared most for a clean 
 and comfortable room, 
 
 Thursday, April 29th. — Chilly and disagreeable early in 
 the morning, but, as usual in San Francisco, after 9 
 o'clock the teniperature was delightful. During the morn- 
 ing I settled my bill at Smith's tavern, and took myself 
 and "blue bag " to friend Welling's. Here I remained for 
 several days. Friends again urged me to stay ; W.
 
 220 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 depicted, in glowing colors, the " certain prospect of ulti- 
 mately coining money " but my mind was made up : I 
 positively declared I would depart from San Francisco in 
 the first comfortable steamer " up for Panama." 
 
 My leisure time was principally occupied in rambling 
 around the city. What magnificent streets ! — what sub- 
 stantial and commodious warehouses ! — what elegant and 
 comfortable mansions ! — what conveniencies and opportu- 
 nities for enjoying life : fine churches, respectable congre- 
 gations — I could hardly believe that I was in California, 
 where, a few short years previously, all was wild and deso- 
 late, naught but one vast wilderness. 
 
 On Tuesday, May 4, I called at the agent's office, and 
 secured a ticket for " passage to Panama in the A No. 1, 
 entirely new and substantially built, side-wheel steamer, 
 Winfield Scott." She was not expected to start for a day 
 or two, in consequence of an unusually large number of 
 persons " bound for home." 
 
 The steamer was entirely new, staunch, and built ex- 
 pressly for the *' California trade." I never saw space so 
 admirably fitted up for carrying passengers ; even down to 
 the lowest plank in the " hold," berths were fitted up. So 
 we had accommodations for No. 1 passengers, second 
 rate passengers, third rate passengers, fourth and fifth rate 
 passengers ; but who cared for accommodations now 1 all 
 we wanted was a speedy passage home.
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 221 
 
 Hark ! Fire, fire, fire ! " Hurry up, men, it's down on 
 the wharf." I ran too, and soon discovered that the " A 
 No. 1 entirely new and elegantly fitted up steamer Win- 
 field Scott " was on fire. " Disappointed this time ; guess 
 we'll have to remain in California after all." " Seize hold 
 there ! " " Lay too. Monumental." " Down with your 
 hose!" "Now, now let fly;" phiz, phiz ; "she throws 
 well." '• Lift her lads, the vessel will be destroyed." 
 "Hurrah ! boys, we will save her yet," cries another. And 
 sure enough, the gallant firemen subdued the flames ; the 
 fire was soon extinguished, and in almost the time occupied 
 in describing the incident, carpenters were at work repair- 
 ing damages and thus prompt, active and energetic are 
 the people of California. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXYII. 
 
 DEPART CJRE FROM CALIFORNIA— LIFE ON BOARD A STEAM- 
 ER—ARRIVAL AT ACAPULCO, MEXICO, &c., &c. 
 
 Thursday, May %th, 1 852. — An unusual commotion on 
 the always crowded "Central Wharf" this morning. 
 Drays, carriages, go-carts, and every other kind of carts 
 were in motion along the wharf ; people were hurrying for- 
 ward, and had the question been asked, as doubtless it was, 
 "What's going on down at the ' Central 1 ' " the answer 
 would have been, '* the new steamer Winfield Scott, is
 
 222 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 
 
 about to start for Panama." Friend Welling accompan- 
 ied me to the boat ; we '' talked our last talk," and were 
 hurriedly partaking of breakfast at a stand near by, when 
 the bell sounded. I hastily bade him a last good-bye, 
 jumped aboard the steamer, and stood among over six 
 hundred men, bound not for California, but for home ! 
 
 What singular feelings came over me ! — what hundreds 
 of strange thoughts and sad memories crossed my brain. 
 I could have laughed and wept at the same time ; but see ! 
 the wheels begin to move, we are receding from the wharf, 
 and cheer upon cheer is given for the Scott's passengers. 
 Hats were twirled around, handkerchiefs were flung to the 
 breeze ; good-bye, good-bye and good-bye was given and 
 returned. The " steam is up," and away we sailed, until I 
 could just discern the crowd upon the wharf. By and by 
 we passed the " Golden Gate," the entrance to the mag- 
 nificent harbor of San Francisco, and soon lost sight of the 
 land of gold ; and now that agreeable epidemic, sea-sick- 
 ness, began to appear among us. Some how or other 
 I was " as fresh as a lark," and passed among the aufullij 
 sick passengers, telling them to look up, and in a day or 
 two they would recover. Some declared they did not care 
 " whether the vessel ran aground, sank, or blew up, they 
 felt so sick." 
 
 Our vessel carried at least two hundred passengers 
 more than she could comfortably accommodate, and the
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 223 
 
 decks were so crowded, that a man really had not a place 
 to spit. A sad state of aflFairs for an American ! Some of 
 our passengers were in high glee, and cherished the fond- 
 est, highest hopes ; others again were happy, but made no 
 outward demonstrations, and others were sullen, thorough- 
 ly disappointed, and a few were stretched upon the decks, 
 lost to all sense of hope or fear, and only wishing for grim 
 death to remove them from this miserable world. Ding, 
 ding, ling, dong, ling ; " all those steerage passengers who 
 have not secured berths will call at the Purser's ofSce, 
 and secure the same," and they did not require a second 
 bidding ; for the Purser's office was immediately crowded 
 with "those steerage passengers who had not secured 
 berths." The vessel was expressly built for the California 
 trade, and even the smallest space was adapted to some 
 use ; down, " way down in the hold " forward, several 
 feet below the surface of the water, where usually in other 
 vessels the ropes, chains, ship's rigging, &c., are stored, 
 berths were fitted up from floor to ceiling, and hardly room 
 enough left for a passenger to pass along. The place was 
 dark ; daylight rarely penetrated there ; but at least fifty 
 men occupied this apartment, for which the charge was 
 seventy-five dollars each. Then there were steerage pas- 
 sengers, who paid one hundred dollars each, who were 
 allowed the second deck to sleep in — much more comfort- 
 able than the " hold " below, and where they enjoyed a
 
 224 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 little more daylight, and above these, on the third deck, were 
 still higher-paying passengers, who had comfortable berths 
 and bedding, and then we reach another class, who sleep 
 on this deck, but eat in the cabin, " after the third table." 
 Then still another class, by paying fifty dollars more, 
 sleep on " standee berths aft," having the privilege of the 
 " quarter deck," and can promenade " abaft the wheel 
 house," but are required to eat at table No. 2; that is, 
 after first cabin passengers have eaten, and last, but the 
 first class on board, were the first cabin passengers, first 
 table, choice of state-rooms, and the privileges and hos- 
 pitalities of the whole vessel. This class, (and, by the 
 way, every one who can aflford it, should always take a 
 first cabin ticket,) had to pay over a hundred dollars more 
 than anybody else on board. 
 
 Our passengers were as various in their phrenological 
 and physiognomical developments as possibly could be. 
 We had the proud and peacock passenger, the clever, sub- 
 stantial and successful passenger, the kind-hearted and 
 considerate passenger, the guerilla-looking passenger, the 
 envious passenger, the fault-finding and dissatisfied pas- 
 senger, and the sneaking, hang-dog-looking passenger, and 
 so on — so on. Most of the passengers slept during the 
 voyage, on the upper deck, for the temperature was hot 
 and exceedingly oppressive, and it could not be otherwise ; 
 for we were *' directly under the sun," and near the
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 225 
 
 " equatorial line." I suffered more on board this steamer 
 than upon any vessel on which 1 had traveled, owing to 
 the crowd, extremely hot weather, and the utter impossi- 
 bility of procuring one night's refreshing sleep. 
 
 On Friday morning, May, l4th, we made the harbor of 
 Acapulco, Mexico. The steamer Golden Gate was just 
 sailing away from it, bound for San Francisco, and was 
 more densly crowded than our vessel. I afterwards learn- 
 ed that she had fifteen hundred passengers on board ; but 
 men were bound for California, they never stopped to 
 inquire about accommodations. 
 
 On Saturday I went ashore^ and easily recognized the 
 place, (described in a former chapter,) and to any one visit- 
 ing a Mexican town in 1862, I will warrant — that if no fire, 
 earthquake or inundation destroys it, he will recognize the 
 place twenty years thereafter. I pronounce the Mexicans 
 unhesitatingly, the most dull, thriftless and unconcerned set 
 of mortals I have ever encountered; at least, such as I met, 
 I ordered breakfast at a cafe, which was little better pre- 
 pared to accommodate guests than an Esquimaux would 
 be at his inhospitable home. 
 
 A large number of vessels make this place their rendez- 
 vous, and all the California steamers anchor here for the 
 purpose of coaling, watering and provisioning ; and as 
 most of the passengers go ashore, what a fine, harvest en- 
 terprising people could reap ; but the lazy natives just 
 10*
 
 226 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 stand and lounge about, gazing at the enterprising 
 strangers coming and going, and manifest very little, if 
 any concern, about anything outside their own squalid 
 homes. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ACAPULCO— SCENES O:^ BOARD THE 
 
 STEAMER— ARRIVAL AT PANAMA— INCIDENTS BY THE 
 
 WAY-SIDE, Ac, &c. 
 
 Saturday, May 16M, 1852. — Feeling somewhat wearied 
 by my rambles through the insignificant town of Acapul- 
 co, I was about to rest myself beneath the wide-spreading 
 branches of a tree, which stood on an eminence, com- 
 manding a fine view of the town and harbor, when, boom ! 
 sounded from the cannon on board the steamer, that put 
 a quietus to all contemplation of Mexican scenery or 
 anything else, but a desire to get aboard a little more 
 expeditiously than I came ashore. Looking up and down 
 the street, the Scott's passengers were seen hurrying to the 
 landing, and such a scrambling into the " dug-outs," canoes 
 and old whale boats, is only seen when a steamer gives her 
 last signal to her truant passengers to wake up and come 
 aboard. About 4 o'clock we hoisted anchor and " headed " 
 for Panama; the temperature was about as comfortable as 
 a baker's oven thoroughly heated, and if fhere were any
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 227 
 
 pleasant looking passengers on board I did not see them. 
 On a platform, '* forward the wheelhouse," on either side 
 of the vessel, the " live stock," consisting of steers, sheep, 
 and pigs, were penned, and every day or two the butch- 
 er of the vessel slaughtered some of them to furnish the 
 cabin table with fresh meat. The steerage passengers 
 enjoyed the privilege of '* looking at the cattle confined in 
 the pen." On the " larboard side " of the steamer, near 
 the " foremast," was a " little crib," which attracted more 
 visitors than any other part of the vessel, it being the place 
 for retailing the "ardent;" twenty -five cents would 
 procure a glass of brandy, plain ; thirty-eight cents bran- 
 dy with ice. I was often amused at the frequent calls for 
 brandy straight, by passengers who were seriously indis- 
 posed. I was informed our population numbered nine 
 hundred, and it was remarkable that no one died, for as I 
 mentioned in a former chapter, some were lying on the 
 deck who looked more dead than alive ; their constitutions 
 completely broken down by sickness and exposure at the 
 mines. The cook on board a vessel is a perfect autocrat ; 
 those passengers who are " ticketed for the steerage " 
 submit to any amount of insolence, merely to procure 
 some extra food or the privileges of the galley, and as the 
 cooks are nearly all representatives from Africa, they 
 exercise more authority than the Emeperor of Hayti. 
 Our Captain, or skipper, as he was sometimes called,
 
 228 SKKTCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 appeared to be a sturdy, resolute chap, and like all steam- 
 er " executive officers," knew how to enjoy himself, and 
 strut the " quarter deck," master of all he surveyed. The 
 chief engineer was provided with a snug little office in 
 which to make his calculations. The first mate was a tall 
 resolute chap, but appeared to have fifty per cent, less to 
 do than mateNo. 2, who was a small, tough, and exceedingly 
 obedient officer. The firemen, coal men, ash men, &c., 
 whose duties confined them in a hold, so dark that day- 
 light never penetrated, had " windsails " erected to supply 
 them with fresh air, and thus their lives were preserved ; 
 nevertheless, they were occasionally brought on deck to 
 revive them, for the heat '-below" was intense. The 
 sailors were pretty much like the general run of " fore- 
 castle " men, not appearing to care much for themselves 
 or anybody else. 
 
 On Saturday, May 22d, we reached the anchorage about 
 ten miles, more or less, from Panama. Now all was ex- 
 citement and confusion ; the passengers/orgot all concern 
 about cabin or steerage accommodations. The question was 
 how to reach Panama, and when 1 — The day was fast 
 declining ; a thick mist was lowering upon us, but we 
 could perceive small boats making for the ship. At length 
 the boats of various size and design reached us, and the 
 natives cried out — *'go ashore," " go ashore; " " me take 
 \r.\[ 'shore for two dollars " — " hah ! signer, take my boat,
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 229 
 
 me go quick ! — but Uncle Samuel's mails had first right, 
 then the lady passengers came next, and finally the priv- 
 ilege was extended to all the passengers to " vamose in 
 double quick time." Presenting to my Ohio adventurer 
 my blankets, and reserving only a change of linen for 
 myself, I climbed down the side of the vessel and alighted 
 in an old mud scow, just in time to secure a delightful 
 sail to the ancient city of Panama. There were about a 
 dozen of us on board, all strangers to each other ; but we 
 soon formed a community of social and friendly travelers ; 
 our old scow seemed to have been distanced by the other 
 boats ; our boatmen looked as though they could murder 
 and pitch us overboard as easily as they poured forth their 
 horrid oaths ; and it was not until dark night overshadow- 
 ed us, that we reached the outside of the remains of a dilapi- 
 dated wall, which I believe once encompassed the city ; 
 but our troubles were not yet ended ; the boatmen demand- 
 ed extra compensation to carry us through the mud, at the 
 same time ordering us out of the boat in true Spanish 
 fashion, to the infinite amusement of the hang-dog looking 
 crowd of natives who were standing around watching a 
 chance to pilfer ; the mud was at least two feet deep to 
 the landing, a distance of about two yards, and things look- 
 ed squally ; but seeing a big fellow about to wade through 
 for the purpose of fastening the boat rope to a post, I 
 leaped upon his back and compelled him to cary me ashore
 
 230 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 " nolens volens ." I stood upon a rock waiting for the 
 rest of the passengers, and after a while they all landed, 
 and we pushed ahead hardly knowing whether we were 
 going " up or down hill," or in the right or wrong direc- 
 tion; the street was dark, muddy, and narrow; we were 
 followed by the natives, who kept up a chattering around 
 us like so many monkeys, until at last we reached the 
 centre of the city, where we found a " numerous delegation " 
 of " Los Yankee; " and when I heard my name called, I 
 turned, and was agreeably surprised to find some of my 
 acquaintances from California, who at once introduced me 
 to the landlord of the "American House," who accommo- 
 dated me with a room in which only fifty men were to 
 to sleep ! After partaking of a supper fit only for an 
 aboriginal to enjoy, I ventured forth to " see the sights," 
 but as the night was dark, and the authorities not approv- 
 ing of lighting the streets, I retraced my steps, and feeling 
 jaded and wearied, I sought rest on my cot.
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 PANAMA.— A NIGHT'S LODGING— A PEDESTRIAN EXPEDITION 
 TO GORGONA, Etc , Etc. 
 
 Saturday, May 22, 1852. — We frequently hear persons 
 say, " I did not sleep a wink last night," but if the truth 
 were known, they had slept half the time ; and I was 
 about to say the same of the night of the 21st, but I be- 
 lieve I did doze, although I grumbled as much as any 
 other lodger. There were about fifty men lodged in one 
 room. "We slept on cot§, or rather reclined on cots, hard- 
 ly two of which were alike. 
 
 " Slap, flap, bang " — " confound these musquitoes ;" 
 " slap, slap, bang," " what's that ?" " See there, what 
 big roaches, lizards, and centipedes ! " " Look out, fellows, 
 they'll tumble down on you before you know it." " Bang, 
 slap, bang ; pshaw, I'll get up, dress, and go down stairs." 
 " Pooh, who would live in such a wretched country ?" 
 " Who can sleep in such an insect-infested hole as this 1" 
 And in truth, forbearance ceased to be a virtue. I tried 
 the expedient of covering myself with bed clothes ; that 
 wouldn't answer, for I came near being melted. I threw 
 off the sheets ; an army of insects attacked me " fore and 
 aft." However, daylight at length condescended to peer 
 through the dirty, prison-looking windows, and such a
 
 232 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 tumbling down stairs was only familiar to the quercitron- 
 dyed landlord, who flourished at the American. 
 
 It was the rainy season on the isthmus, and were I not 
 homeward-bound, I might have felt most uncomfortable. 
 My bill for supper, lodging and breakfast was only one 
 dollar and fifty cents. I strolled around the city, and no- 
 ticed that in the business portion of the town the houses 
 were three-storied, "originally" white-washed, balconies 
 running along the second story which had been painted red 
 about ninety years ago — more or less. The streets were 
 very narrow, filth abundant, and the markets remarkable 
 only, for a want of order and cleanliness ; meat and vegeta- 
 bles inviting to a stranger. 
 
 The loquacious parrot and the nimble and thieving mon- 
 key appeared to be the happiest citizens. The signoritas 
 wei-e attired in loose and flowing robes that admirably 
 suited the warm climate, and I was so favorably impressed 
 with the attractions of the ancient city of Panama, that I 
 determined to leave for Gorgona on foot and alone, despite 
 the heavy shower that was beating down. 
 
 I had not proceeded far out of the city ere I began to 
 wish that the others would follow. I stopped at a mud 
 hut, drank coffee, and by the time I was ready to depart, 
 there came along a crowd of Americans, each one, like my- 
 self, traveling on " shanks' mare," and a merry party we 
 were ; away we went, now tumbling into mud deeper than
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS, 233 
 
 we desired, and again picking over way over solid rock by 
 a rugged path wide enough for a mule to pass. But " look 
 there !" "what is that?" It was a poor mule that had 
 sunk in the mud, and been left by its owner to die. We 
 strove to pull him out, but we failed, and so left him to 
 his fate. 
 
 The rain poured down furiously, but on we traveled ; 
 and anon the clouds would break away and the glorious 
 sun shine forth, even here. About every five miles we 
 came across thatched huts, in which brandy and coffee was 
 dispensed at ten cents a swallow, and the natives seemed 
 to be well encouraged, for the wayworn travelers needed 
 refreshments. We continued our slow and wearisome march 
 up hill and down hill, through mud and over rough stones, 
 until we reached the " Half-way Settlement," where we 
 concluded to hold up until the following morning. 
 
 The house, or rather the tent, at which we stopped was 
 conducted by an American woman, who was as gentle and 
 kind-hearted as an enraged tigress. Her face must have 
 contained 90 per cent, of brass, and her heart have been 
 composed of stone. Here we were privileged to " pile our- 
 selves " on top of a load of wood, and if any of the party 
 were comfortable that night, I never heard of it. 
 
 Sunday, May 23. — I should not have known it was the 
 Sabbath day only for the regular posting in my journal. 
 We ate breakfast — and such a breakfast ! — settled bills,
 
 234 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 and left the inhospitable " Half-way House " with no 
 friendly feelings to our hostess or her miserable shanty. 
 
 Away we trudged for Gorgona; the pathway was hem- 
 med in by low chapparral, a fit hiding place for the numer- 
 ous serpents said to abound there, but who politely kept 
 out of our way. I observed a large quantity of the sensi- 
 tive plant growing luxuriantly around, but I did not see 
 "those lovely flowers" I had been told we would find in 
 our travels ; but we overtook myriads of large black ants 
 who kept on their course, regardless of everything but 
 themselves. 
 
 Towards the close of the day we espied Gorgona, and 
 the first hut we reached I entered, ordered supper, and 
 sat down to rest myself with all the importance of a 
 steamboat captain. My hotel had no floor, no beds, not a 
 table, and I was curious to know how my host would 
 arrange matters. After considerable delay, he brought 
 in an old box, covered it with unbleached muslin, and 
 then placed my meal on it, which consisted of fried 
 bananas, eggs, and a bottle of claret wine. I enjoyed the 
 repast, (charge, sixty cents,) and soon after sallied forth 
 in quest of novelty, and was surprised to find "further 
 down the road " quite a settlement, several hotels con- 
 ducted by enterprising Americans, the principal houses 
 being the Union and the St. Louis, and at the end of the 
 lane I discovered the Ohagres river, not near so formida-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 235 
 
 ble a stream as I had been led to expect. Finding most 
 of the Americans quartered at the Union and St. Louis 
 hotels, I concluded to retrace my steps, procure my bun- 
 dle, and board at the Union. 
 
 I noticed a number of signoritas dressed in white going 
 in and coming out of a hut ; curiosity led me thither, 
 and I saw the body of a child lying in state ; the friends 
 were showering flowers over the little one, but it appeared 
 that a death at Gorgona was regarded more as a cause for 
 rejoicing than weeping. I reached my " suburban re- 
 treat," and in as good Spanish and English as I could 
 command, gave my half-clad host to understand that " I 
 would vamose down the lane where Los Americano 
 crowded." After many bows and warm expressions of 
 regard, we separated, and I was in a short time standing 
 on the balcony of the Union hotel watching the vast 
 crowd of homeward-bound travelers gathered around, not 
 two of whom were dressed alike, and each sadly needing 
 the barber. 
 
 Understanding that the cots were nearly all taken, I 
 made application to the landlord, who secured me one just 
 in time, or I should have been compelled to sleep on the 
 damp floor, as a goodly number did. 
 
 The sky was overcast, and the temperature moist and 
 chilly. I would have preferred a seat in the kitchen to 
 dry my clothing, but there was no alternative. I had to
 
 23G SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 lounge about the only spare place, the bar-room, which 
 was damp, overcrowded, and not perfumed with either the 
 rose or jessamine. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 A SAIL DOWN THE CHAGRES RIVER— SCENES AT TIVOLI— 
 THE RAILROAD— DEPARTURE FOR, AND ARRIVAL 
 
 AT, ASPINWALL. 
 
 Monday, May 24, 1852. — Overcome by fatigue, I slept 
 well last night ; arose early this morning, partook of a 
 tolerable breakfast, and then paid $2.80 for supper, lodg- 
 ing and breakfast to the landlord of " Union hotel," Gor- 
 gona. 
 
 Now commenced another unpleasant task, to select out 
 of the many "dug-outs," one to convey my honorable body 
 down the river to a place called Tivoli. After bargaining 
 some time with the half-clad natives, I at length selected 
 one in which I found several Americans, among them my 
 Ohio acquaintance. Our fare was four dollars each ; dis- 
 tance not over twenty miles. A "dug-out" is a boat 
 manufactured from the thickest part of a tree, and so un- 
 safe to sail in, that if a passenger should chance to lean 
 over on one side, it would upset, and then, according to 
 some journalists, look out for alligators. 
 
 Taking a last, and I hope eternal farewell of Gorgona,
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 237 
 
 our boatmen sang out, " all ready," and off we sailed about 
 as fast as the current was pleased to take us, no thanks to 
 the copper-colored boatmen. "We had not proceeded very 
 far, and had hardly become familiar with our unsymmetri- 
 cal " dug-out," when the "gentleman from Ohio" fell for- 
 ward in my lap, very nearly upsetting our rickety old 
 craft. Q'he frequent indulgence in " Darien fruits" put him 
 "hors du combat,^' to the serious annoyance of our native 
 boatmen, who cared as much for the sick man as they did 
 for a log of wood. We could not administer any relief, 
 and were compelled to let him groan and suffer, only wish- 
 ing that we had some medicine or cordial to give him. 
 
 About noon we reached the great city of Tivoli, and I 
 had the sick man placed in " Old Joe's" hotel, where he 
 was as comfortably provided for as circumstances would 
 permit. I found Tivoli the dirtiest, meanest, most con- 
 temptible fever and ague breeding hole it ever fell to my 
 lot to visit. There were about a dozen thatched huts, 
 with accommodations a shade better than a decent pig- 
 pen. 
 
 As soon as possible I purchased a ticket for Aspinwall, 
 distant eighteen miles, fare, five dollars ; but unfortunately 
 we received intelligence that some accident had happened, 
 and we should be compelled to wait here until the succeed- 
 ing day. 
 
 Hundreds of homeward-bound Americans were quartered
 
 238 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 here awaiting the arrival of the cars, consequently they 
 " ate and drank " everything the shiftless natives could 
 muster. This place was the first way station and terminus, 
 at that time, of the Panama railroad. Many of the natives 
 were unfriendly to the road, because it deprived them of a 
 fine revenue from boating, etc., but now the road is 
 completed to Panama, and the journey attended with more 
 pleasure than discomfort. 
 
 In my walks around, I chanced to enter a dirty-looking 
 shanty, and make the acquaintance of the proprietor. He 
 was a young man from " down east," who had ventured 
 out here for the purpose of '' bettering his finances." The 
 unhealthy climate, the miasmatic effluvia arising from the 
 damp and filthy village and its surroundings, had seriously 
 impaired his health ; he looked to be more dead than alive. 
 I suggested the -propriety of leaving this death-inviting 
 place ; but he replied, ■' I have a fine chance to accumulate 
 money here, and if I go away, what can I do ? I came 
 here to make money, and I am bound to see it through." 
 I hope he was successful and escaped death ; but it cer- 
 tainly was a miserable hole for a white man to dwell in. 
 
 The Ohio traveler soon recovered his usual health, and 
 agreed with me, that his illness was occasioned by indulg- 
 ing too freely in tropical fruits. 
 
 While I discountenanced the habitual use of brandy, 
 still, in journeying through such places as Panama, Gor-
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 239 
 
 gona, and Tivoli, it were better to use brandy moderately 
 tban to indulge in the tempting tropical fruits, 
 
 Tuesday, May 25, — There were no sleeping accommo- 
 dations for the passengers ; some slept on the railroad 
 track, because it was cleaner than the village ; others se- 
 cured seats in the cars, and I walked, talked, and occa- 
 sionally nodded during the night, which seemed almost in- 
 terminable ; but as everything has an end, our unpleasant 
 night at Tivoli came to one, and daylight broke and 
 shed abroad its cheering light on the wearied and restless 
 travelers. 
 
 " Hark ! what's that ?" " Three cheers, men, the cars 
 are coming !" and true, here comes dashing along the train 
 — the cars crowded with men, women and children, bound 
 for California. As the steam-horse stopped his snorting, 
 a shower of rain suddenly descended, scattering the 
 travelers in all directions in search of shelter, for when it 
 rains on the Isthmus " it rains hogsheads of water in a 
 solid stream." After awhile the shower ceased, the clouds 
 passed away, and the sun deigned to shine upon Tivoli. 
 The numerous ladies on the train had my fullest sympathy 
 for the " hard road they had to travel," and my sincere 
 wishes for the realization of their expectations. 
 
 As soon as the California gold-seekers were out of the 
 cars, we homeward-bound travelers rushed to the seats, 
 and it is unnecessary to say, anxiously waited for the train
 
 240 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 to move off. The cars were built in the United States 
 expressly for the climate of Darien, were cheerful in ap- 
 pearance and very comfortable. Soon the conductor sang 
 out, " all aboard," and away we went in gallant style for 
 Aspinwall. The road was in excellent condition, so far 
 as I was able to judge. The thick, luxuriant shrubbery 
 which lined the road on either side precluded an opportu- 
 nity of " seeing the country." 
 
 About mid-day we arrived at Aspinwall, being the only 
 place this side of California which bore any resemblance 
 to the " land of the free and the home of the brave." 
 The railroad company had erected a long, well-covered 
 shed, extending a considerable distance out into the bay, 
 which allowed steamers to anchor alongside, to the great 
 convenience and gratification of travelers.
 
 CHAPTER X LI. 
 
 ASPINWALL— AFLOAT AGAIN— BOUND FOR NEW YORK-IN- 
 CIDENTS ON BOARD THE STEAMER— STATEN ISLAND- 
 ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK— THE END. 
 
 Upon our arrival at Aspinwall, we found several steam- 
 ers " up for the States," which occasioned intense gratifi- 
 cation to the large number of " homeward-bound " passen- 
 gers just emerging from the cars and busily engaged in 
 hunting up their baggage. As I had no baggage to trou- 
 ble me, I hastened at once to the first steamer lying most 
 conveniently to the railroad wharf — sought out the purser's 
 office, and purchased a cabin ticket for New York for 
 twenty-five dollars. I was most agreeably disappointed in 
 finding the fare so much reduced ; the usual rate had been 
 from eighty to one hundred dollars for cabin fare ; but the 
 unusual number of opposition steamers meeting there at 
 the same time caused the reduction. 
 
 My apparel was so coarse and well-worn ; my spectacles 
 
 about five times heavier than they should have been, and 
 
 my whiskers and moustache so rough and irregular, that 
 
 I really felt ashamed to show myself in tlie saloon of the 
 
 steamer. Nevertheless, passengers from California were 
 
 always treated with respect, because they were supposed 
 
 to carry the " needful " about them. 
 11
 
 242 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 On the wharf, the first sight that reminded me of my 
 return to civilized communities, was that of observing 
 Irishmen selling apples and cakes ! Aspinwall appears 
 to have been built in the midst of a swamp, whose rank 
 and luxuriant grass and weeds afford admirable resting 
 places for those affectionate little bill stickers, musquitoes, 
 to say nothing of insects and reptiles of whose habits and 
 peculiarities I had rather read, than observe for myself! 
 
 The steamer on which I had engaged passage proved 
 to be the Crescent City, which subsequently became bet- 
 ter known for the animosity the Habaneros entertained for 
 her and her purser. 
 
 About 4 o'clock, P. M., we let go the " fastenings," and 
 steamed away for the great city of New York. My feel- 
 ings were more delightful than I care to express. The 
 accommodations on board the " Crescent " were comfort- 
 able and elegant. We had few passengers, and for the 
 first time in four years, I was traveling comfortably, and 
 felt as happy as a school-boy returning to his home. 
 
 Happening to be seated in the main saloon when supper 
 was announced, I took my seat at the table with several 
 agreeable acquaintances. The steward handed me a 
 ticket, on which was printed — '• First cabin, first table,^ 
 first state-room." This was very fortunate for me, for 
 those passengers that still remained on deck were required 
 to eat at the second table, and whan they " came below "
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 243 
 
 and found how the tickets were distributed, they were not 
 the happiest passengers on board. We had the Minister 
 Plenipotentiary and suite of Peru on their way to Rome ; 
 several ladies from other portions of South America ; a 
 Lieutenant of the United States Navy returning from a 
 distant clime on the " sick list; " several English families 
 on their way home, after a prolonged absence in Chili ; and 
 the remainder Californians, with heavy moustaches and 
 bushy beards, — some wearing blue, red, calico, and hick- 
 ory shirts, and boots so well nailed, that carpets were per- 
 forated like a sand-box. One chap wore in his old blue 
 blanket shirt bosom, a fine specimen of gold, worth at least 
 two hundred dollars ; another wore blue overalls, a blue 
 shirt, and I was about to say — a blue face, but he had ten 
 thousand dollars in his possession, and if the feelings of his 
 heart had been unfolded, a happier person could not have 
 been discovered on board. 
 
 As I remarked before, my apparel was of such fine tex- 
 ture, that I declined state-room accommodations, and wil- 
 lingly surrendered them for a " standee berth." I cannot 
 recollect ever having been on a vessel where I ob- 
 served less " noise and confusion ;" every man appeared 
 to know his place, and everything had its place. The 
 table was most beautifully and luxuriantly furnished, 
 and the returning Californians did ample justice to the 
 viands.
 
 244 SKETCHES OP TRAVELS. 
 
 Among the passengers was a little Spanish girl, about 
 six years of age, who became very much attached to me. 
 Her father had died but a short time before, and her mother 
 was pursuing her journey without an escort: This little 
 child would watch for my appearance early in the morn- 
 ing, and continue with me until evening, and yet not one 
 word of English could she speak. But I thought the lit- 
 tle one felt sad and lonely ; or, perhaps, I may have re- 
 sembled her father. . At all events, she was my most fre- 
 quent companion during the voyage ; although with her 
 mother I never exchanged a word or salutation. The 
 passengers remarked how happy the little one appeared in 
 my society ; but the voyage over, I lost sight of her for- 
 ever. If still living, she may possibly remember the care 
 and attention I paid her when a little child journeying 
 away from her home and native land, and traveling among 
 a people with whose language and customs she was wholly 
 unacquainted. 
 
 The waiters generally on board vessels returning with 
 California passengers, are very attentive and obedient — 
 cheered by the hope of receiving a " large fee" at the end 
 of the voyage. The waiter for our mess was kept con- 
 tinually on the march. 
 
 During our residence in California we had been deprived 
 of many comforts and delicacies ; so all now appeared 
 disposed to secure a large share of the good things placed
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 245 
 
 before us day after day. The gentleman who sat nearest 
 me was an admirable " compagnon de voyage ; " he would 
 direct " John " to bring him first this, and then that dish, 
 and it always seemed that he ordered precisely lohat I 
 wished ; so he had the trouble of ordering, and I, the plea- 
 sure of partaking. 
 
 On Friday, June 4, we came within sight of Staten 
 Island. The weather was hazy and damp ; but the 
 foreigners especially, crowded the upper decks to catch a 
 glimpse of Yankee land. John Bull was in ecstasies ; 
 " beautiful," " charming." he would would exclaim. Signer 
 Spaniola looked on in silence. But hark ! the bell rings, 
 the wheels cease their revolutions — we are off the quaran- 
 tine station. The health officer boarded us ; all right — 
 we were too much excited to be on the sick list. We 
 steamed up ; boom ! our little cannon fired off — the sound 
 reverberates and re-echoes along the shore. " "Wake up, 
 men," a California steamer is coming up ; away we go — 
 now nearing the forests of masts along the wharves ; now 
 we perceive the city — what a collection of stone and mor- 
 tar! see, there is Williamsburgh, and there Brooklyn; 
 still we go on — round the Battery ; now we move slowly, 
 "look out there!" "catch that rope," "make fast;" 
 " stand back, gentlemen " — " the United States mails take 
 precedence," " clear the gangway." Out come the mails, 
 
 and up come the hotel runners — hind gentlemen ; — " yes, 
 11*
 
 246 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 
 
 sir ; " " Astor House " — " French's Hotel " — " Irving 
 House" — "take your baggage, sir" — "first rate home; 
 all the Californians stop there." " Whew ! all is con- 
 fusion ; " — " get off there " — " don't crowd so ; " " knock 
 that fellow down." But I rolled my blue bag under my 
 arm, marched forward, and left the vessel 1 
 
 The voyage was over ! My spirits were weighed down 
 with an uncontrollable melancholy ; I almost wished I 
 had remained in California, or was landing in San Fran- 
 cisco instead of New York ; nor was I singular in this 
 respect; most travelers who have been away from home 
 for a long time, after years of toil and excitement, and 
 then at length return, the transition is so sudden, the 
 change so great, that they cannot at once realize the 
 fact. 
 
 I was desirous of reaching the hotel by a different 
 route from that usually taken, to conceal from the loafing 
 crowd around that I was a returned Californian. I suc- 
 ceeded admirably. I stopped at Johnston & Roger's 
 hotel, in Fulton street, where I had boarded for some 
 time prior to my journey to California. The hotel pre- 
 sented the same appearance ; the attaches were the 
 same, excepting only the clerk in the office, as when I 
 left in 1849. It seemed as but yesterday ; I could 
 hardly believe I had been absent so long. As soon as I 
 reached the room assigned me, I took out my old razor —
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS. 247 
 
 quickly removed my moustache and whiskers — sallied out 
 to the nearest clothing store, purchased a new suit of 
 clothes — took a capital bath, and then sat down in the 
 reading room of the hotel as unconcerned as though I 
 had not a few hours previously left the steamer, and just 
 concluded a three years' residence in the wilds of Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 THE END.
 
 L^'"^
 
 University of California Library 
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