*>* * ""wjv 9 3s \ * t, m Ttti GOUMN IMfc' f LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SAN DIE«0 g , mk X'^dr wi^ WvJf v.. " OVER THE RANGE. 1 OVER THE RANGE TO THE GOLDEN GATE. A COMPLETE TOURIST'S GUIDE COLORADO, NEW MEXICO, UTAH, NEVADA, CALIFORNIA, OREGON, PUGET SOUND AND THE GREAT NORTH-WEST. By STANLEY WOOD. Revised and Corrected to Date, 1895. CHICAGO: R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS CO., PUBLISHERS. 1895. COPYRIGHT, BY S. K. HOOPER. 1894. R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co.. The Lakeside Press, Chicago. PREFACE |T is no light undertaking to prepare a guide-book which shall adequately describe the places of interest on the great trunk lines between Denver on the hither side of the Rocky Moun- tains, San Diego at the southern extremity of California, and Portland, Seattle and Tacoma, the three commercial entre- pots of the Great Northwest. Yet such is the undertaking purposed. In a work of this character fact must ever stand paramount to fancy, and lucidity of expression take the precedence. No attempt will be made at "fine writing;" every effort will be made to state just such facts as the traveler would like to know, and to state these facts in clear and explicit language. The country traversed is most interesting, abounding in scenes of the greatest variety, from the broad and billowy expanse of the boundless prairie to the rugged grandeur of the American Alps, from the picturesque quaintness of New Mexico and the nomadic wildness of the Indian reser- vations to the polished civilization of metropolitan cities. There is no journey which can be taken on the continent of North America that pre- sents so much of interest to the tourist, and which can be taken with such a comparatively moderate outlay of time and money, as the one described in the following pages. New Mexico, Colorado, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory! What a field for investigation, investment or pleasure ! These are the lands of gold, of silver, of coal, of agriculture, of all fruits known to the temperate and sub-tropical zones. These are the lands of new endeavors, of fresh impulses, and for these reasons are of special interest to tourists, business men and seekers after health and pleasure. Aside from the interesting character of the subject discussed, there is also a special value in the work now presented to the reader, inasmuch as great care has been taken to gather information that shall be found statistically accurate. In a work of this character it is difficult to combine accurate information with matters of general interest in such a way that neither shall have an undue prominence. The writer has endeavored to attain this desirable medium. One thing is certain, nothing in this book is venal in its character. The opinions here expressed are those of the writer ; the descriptions of scenes given here are reproductions of the feelings inspired by those scenes. There has been no bias in any direction. On the contrary, every effort has been made to write judicially and, at the same time, retain the enthusiasm which the traveler naturally feels in beholding new sights and scenes. In order that no element of information may be lacking, carefully prepared tables of statistics have been given a place in this volume, and the reader is respectfully requested to make use of these tables because much of value has been condensed into this convenient form. By the aid of the tables referred to, and by frequent reference to the 5 PREFA CE. 7 three excellent maps herein given, the tourist will be able to gain an exceptionally clear idea of the journey he is making, and of the character- istics of the country through which he is passing. As another aid to the traveler abundant illustrations have been prepared, which will give the purchaser of this book an idea of what he may expect to see ; and which, after he has beheld these places, will serve as a reminder of those pleasant scenes which by their assistance can never fade from his memory. It has been the endeavor of the writer to meet as nearly as possible thewants of all classes of travelers. Information of value to the tourist for pleasure, the health seeker, the sportsman and the man of business, will be found in the pages of this book. Nothing has been written in the interests of any clique or class. The truth, and nothing but the truth, has been told. If there are errors they are such as must necessarily occur in the compilation of a work covering such a vast extent of territory. Accuracy has been aimed at, and as a whole, the writer can vouch for the accuracy of what will be found herein. The book is one written in the field and not in the study. Facts are not taken at second hand. The author writes of what he saw with his own eyes, and not what he read. The statistics have been gathered from authentic sources, and have been condensed into the most compact and convenient form. Hoping the book may prove a useful companion to the traveler, it is submitted without further comment to the public. FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO DENVER. HE Missouri River has become to be regarded, in a general way, as the boundary line between the East and the West, although, in truth, the terms east and west are extremely elastic in their application. However, for the purposes of this book we will consider that all on the sundown side of the Missouri River is West, and that the traveler has reached one of the three great entrepots to this vast country and finds himself in Omaha, St. Joseph or Kansas City. From either of these thriving cities the journey to Denver can be taken by way of first class transportation lines provided with all the modern conveniences and luxuries. From Omaha one has choice of the Burlington Route, the Rock Island and the Union Pacific, and from Kansas City one can travel by any of the above lines with an additional choice between the Missouri Pacific, or the At- chison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. With Chicago or St. Louis as the initial point one can go direct by any of the trunk lines to the Missouri River and continue his journey to Denver over his choice among the routes mentioned above. The trip across the great plains from the Missouri River to Denver is full of interest and variety to one who beholds this vast expanse for the first time. Nothing can give such a vivid impression of the greatness of our coun- try, and the adventurous character of our people, as the sight of these bound- less prairies and the habitations of the hardy pioneers who are rapidly turning the buffalo sod and exposing the rich black soil to the fertilizing action of the sun and air, and substituting for nature's scant forage, abundant harvests of corn and wheat. The railroads, for a distance of three or four hundred miles to the west of the Missouri River, pass through thriving cities to which a comparatively thickly settled agricultural country is tributary. Then the newer territory is reached, the towns are of less frequent occurrence and smaller in size, the plains appear more nearly in their native state, only dotted here and there with the claim cabins of the settlers. As the traveler looks out of the car window across the billowy expanse, he sees herds of cattle and sheep, grazing on the rich bunches of buffalo grass, and occasion- ally he will catch a glimpse of the flying form of an antelope disappearing over the brow of a distant rise of land. Not uninteresting are the prairie dog villages with their preternaturally grave inhabitants sitting on their haunches like diminutive kangaroos, and the writer has seen a whole car load of people filled with the most pleasurable excitement over the efforts of a jack rabbit to outspeed the iron horse. With these and many other novel and interesting sights the time is whiled away until some traveler, more experienced, or more sharp of sight, suddenly cries out "The Moun- "HTT'nT^-3 ;,; iiiiiMll^ilttML^ TO THE GOLDEN GATE. " tains!" There is a rush to his side of the car and everybody gazes earnestly, and amidst eager explanations and doubting comments the blue of the sky is at last disintegrated from the blue of the mountains, and the most skeptical at length acknowledges that the stain of ultramarine, with its undulating sweep against the western horizon is really the distance- enchanted range of the Rocky Mountains. Soon patches of fleecy white appear, and with a sigh of disappointment the traveler decides that the clouds are dropping down and will soon shut out the view of those "senti- nels of enchanted land," but gazing more intently, it dawns upon the mind at last that those glimmering expanses are not veils of cloud, but are in fact mountain fields of everlasting snow ! The Snowy Range has at last declared itself, and from this moment until the trans-continental journey shall have been accomplished, the traveler will have the immediate memory or the intimate presence of the mountains with him continually. The view of the Rocky Mountains, which the traveler gains on ap- proaching Denver from the east is one of unsurpassed beauty, and that this statement may not rest on the dictum of this book, let us take the testimony of the greatest traveler, and the most graceful descriptive writer America has yet produced. Bayard Taylor says: — -"I know no external picture of the Alps that can be placed beside it. If you take away the valley of the Rhone, and unite the Alps of Savoy with the Bernese Overland, you might obtain a tolerable idea of this view of the Rocky Mountains. Pike's Peak would then represent the Jungfrau, a nameless snowy giant in front of you, Monta Rosa and Long's Peak, Mount Blanc. The altitudes very nearly correspond, and there is a certain similarity in forms. The average height of the Rocky Mountains however, surpasses that of the Alps. * * * From this point there appears to be three tolerably distinct ranges. The first rises from two to three thousand feet above the level of the plains, is cloven asunder by the canons of the streams, streaked with the dark lines of the pine, which feather its summits and with sunny, steep slopes of pasture. Some distance behind it appears a second range, of nearly double the height, more irregular in its masses, and of a dark velvety violet hue. Be- yond, leaning against the sky, are the snowy peaks, all of which are from thir- teen to (nearly) fifteen thousand feet above the sea. These three chains, with their varying but never discordant undulations, are as inspiring to the im- agination as they are enchanting to the eye. They hint of concealed grandeurs in all the glens and parks among them, and yet hold you back with a doubt, whether they can be more beautiful near at hand than when beheld at this distance." The doubt so gravely expressed in the last sentence of our quotation, the traveler, when he shall have taken the trans-continental tour, will be fully able to resolve for himself. He will have beheld a bewildering variety of beauty, and in the quiet evenings at home, he will find material for the most exquisite enjoyment of pleasing reminiscence and reverie. With such an approach, Denver must needs be something more than ordinary not to strike the traveler as a discord in the grand harmony of the scene. It is a fact, and it is a pleasure for the writer to record it, that Den- ver is never a disappointment. What its peculiar charms may be, and how it appears to the stranger within its gates, will be described in the succeed- ing chapter. VIEW OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS, DENVEF CITY HALL. ARAPAHOE COUNTY COURT-HOUSE POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE CAPITOL BUILDING. U. S. BRANCH MINT. FROM DENVER TO PUEBLO. DENVER, Capital of Colorado. Population, 150,000. Elevation, 5i«95 feet. There are only a few cities in the world that please at first sight. Denver is one of this favored few. The liking one gets for Boston, Philadelphia or London is an acquired taste, but one falls in love at once with Paris, Denver or San Francisco. It does not follow that because the cities mentioned are immedi- ately pleasing, they must of necessity resemble each other, any more than that a peach, an apple or an orange should have a similar flavor. We like the fruit and we like the cities without having to learn to like them, but not for the same reasons. One feels a sense of exhilaration in the atmosphere of Denver. The grand view of the Snowy Range of mountains to the north and west and the broad expanse of horizon-bounded plains to the east and south exalt the spirits, the bland but bracing breezes cool the fevered pulse and the abundant oxygen of the air thrills one like a draught of effervescing champagne. A beautiful city, beautifully situated, is Denver, with broad tree-shaded streets, along each side of which flow streams of sparkling water, necessary to the growth of vegetation in a country where the annual rainfall is less than fifteen inches, with public buildings of massive pro- portions and attractive architecture, with residences erected in accordance with the canons of good taste, with innumerable lawns of shaven grass, ornamented with shrubs and flowers, with charming suburbs and an out- lying country, studded with fertile farms and flowering or fruiting orchards, peace is within her dwellings and plenty within her palaces. Denver has now nineteen railroads, two extensive street railway systems operating, one hundred and sixty miles of electric and cable railroads, reaching all the various portions of the city. Strangers will find that the most conveni- ent and satisfactory manner of viewing the city is from the windows of the street cars. The town is lighted by gas and electricity, its principal streets are paved with asphaltum, has paid fire and police departments, and obtains its water from mountain sources by means of Holly works, and from over 300 artesian wells varying in depth from 350 to 1,600 feet. The public buildings, exclusive of churches and schools, cost $4,771,000. The real estate belonging to the city is worth $3,439,207, the bonded debt is $2,223,000 and the assessed valuation of Denver is $76,856,000. The com- merce of Denver is now annually not less than one hundred and forty millions of dollars. Denver is situated at the junction of Cherry Creek and the Platte River, and in addition to being the Capital of the State, is the county seat of Arapahoe County. All the railroads which enter Denver land their passengers at the Union Depot, a massive and handsome edifice of native stone; originally built in 1880, and destroyed by fire in the Spring TO THE GOLD EX GATE. *5 of 1894, now re-erected, more beautiful and complete than before. Opposite the main entrance of the Union Depot, on Seventeenth Street, and at the south end of the building, on Sixteenth Street, cable and electric car lines diverge to all parts of the city, passing the principal hotels and all points of interest. On the town-ward side of the . Union Depot are the carriage stands, and if arrangements for transportation have not already been made on the train, with the carriage company's agent, before reaching the city, a carriage can be engaged here. Prices are regulated by ordinance and ARAPAHOE COUNTY COURT HOUSE, DENVER. extortion prohibited by law. There are many objects of interest to see in Denver: The smelters, the public buildings, the Tabor Grand Opera House, the Broadway Theatre, Brown Palace Hotel, — probably the finest in the United States, — magnificent business blocks, the system of irrigation, the beautiful private residences, the homes of mining princes and cattle barons, the lovely suburbs and Fort Logan the United States .Military POst. The hotel accommodations of Denver are probably the most complete of any city of its population in the country. There are ten first-class hotels provided with all modern improvements, to say nothing of some sixty odd less pretentious ones. A day, or better two days, can be profitably spent in Denver, and then, refreshed and rested from the long ride across the i6 OVER THE RAXGE. plains from the Missouri River or beyond, the tourist is ready to resume his trans-continental journey. If he wishes to behold the wonders of nature and to get a familiar acquaintance with the grandeur of the moun- tains, he will take the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, which by universal acclaim has been designated " The Scenic Line of the World." Seated in a comfortable car, whose large windows give an excellent outlook on the scenery, the traveler is ready and anxious to be off. The busy Union Depot may amuse him for a moment, but anticipation of the wonders in store makes him impatient of delay. Soon the conductor gives the signal to the engineer, the inevitable late passenger is seen chasing the rear end of the Pullman out of the depot, and whether he catches it or not, one thing is assured, the journey to the Pacific Coast has begun, and from this time on the eye and mind will both find plenty to do in noting and recording Nature's most marvelous works. The first stop is made at 4&iSliMffilffi J » IS M § : "i __ LWti FT.eil EJH gj-jffl li|^j ., COLORADO'S STATE CAPITOL BUILDING, DENVER. Burnham. The station for the suburb of West Denver and the site of the great shops of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The buildings of the machine shops cover an area of five acres and were erected at a cost of $300,000. (Distance from Denver, 2 miles.) Overland Park is a pleasant suburb to the southwest of Denver, and is supplied with one of the best race-courses in the west. It is a fashionable resort and connected with Denver by the suburban train ser- vice of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Petersburg - is a small town surrounded by farms, market gardens and plats laid out as additions to Denver. (Distance from Denver, 8 miles.) To the west, 2}4 miles distant, lies P'ort Logan, the United States Military Post. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 17 Fort Logan. A regimental post of United States troops has been here established, and has become the centre of great interest. The quar- ters are elegant and substantial, consisting of handsome brick edifices. The parade ground is ample in proportions, and no expense has been spared to make this Post a model of its kind. The military band gives frequent concerts, and the citizens of Denver take great interest in and make frequent excursions to the Post. The Denver & Rio Grande Rail- road has established a very complete suburban train service for the accommodation of the Post, and the public, which is largely patronized. Littleton is prettily situated on the east bank of the Platte River, is the centre of a good agricultural country, and is destined to be the location of the suburban residences of many of Denver's best citizens. Already an adequate suburban train service has been inaugurated for the convenience of persons having country homes at this delightful spot. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 10 miles. Elevation, 5,372 feet.) Wolliurst. Four miles beyond Littleton, the summer home of United States Senator Wolcott. Aceqilia. A small station for the accommodation of ranchmen. Here the High Line Canal, one of those great irrigating ditches character- istic of Colorado, crosses the track and takes its winding way to the north- east over the rolling plains, having under its fertilizing power at least a hundred thousand acres of otherwise arid land. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 17 miles. Elevation 5,530 feet.) Sedalia. A little village. Home market and post office for cattle growers and ranchmen. (Population 200. Distance from Denver, 25 miles. Elevation, 5,835 feet.) Castle Rock. The town takes its name from a peculiar upthrust of rock on the summit of a conical hill, resembling, in the distance, an old martelle tower, and nearer by an irregular pentagonal structure. Under the shadow of this hill and surmounting tower lies the town, which is a pretty village and the county seat of Douglas County. Fine quarries of red sandstone are worked here, and pastoral industries contribute to the pros- perity of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 33 miles Elevation, 6,219 feet.) Douglas. A station near which are stone quarries and grazing lands. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 35 miles. Elevation, 6,323 feet.) Between Douglas and Palmer Lake are the small stations of Glade, Larkspur and Greeland. Perry Park is reached by stage from Larkspur station. This park abounds in curious formations of red sandstone; is watered by sparkling brooks and is one of the most popular resorts near Denver. As the train rolls into the station the traveler sees to his left a beautiful little lake cradled in the hills. Along the shore has been . placed a handsome cut stone embankment, and a neat and tasteful boat house has been erected and well stocked with boats. The lake is a natural body of water, though the fact that a fountain plays in its centre, casting a jet of water to the height of 80 feet, leads many to PALMER LAKE. Health and Pleasure Resort. Population, 150. Distance from Denver. 52 miles. Elevation, 7,237 feet. Eating Station. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 19 suppose that it is entirely artificial. Palmer Lake in addition to being a place of great beauty, is a natural curiosity, poised as it is, exactly on the summit of the "divide," a spur of the outlying range of the Rockies extend- ing eastward into the great plains and from the crest of this summit the waters divide flowing northward into the Platte, which empties into the Missouri, and southward into the Arkansas as it wends its way to the Mis- sissippi. Red roofed picturesque cottages nestle here and there among the hills, gayly painted boats float gracefully upon the bright blue waters, and on either hand rugged peaks, pine clad and broken by castellated rocks, rise into a sky whose cerulean hue is reflected in the placid waters of the lake. Excellent hotel and livery establishments furnish good accommoda- tions for sojourners. Glen Park, an assembly ground modeled after the famous Chautau- qua, and destined to become equally as popular in the West as its prototype in the East, is only half a mile beyond Palmer Lake. Objects of natural interest are abundant and the walks and drives to Glen D'Eau, Bellview Point, Ben Lomond, the Arched Rocks and the canons and glens adjacent afford material for enjoyment in the seeing and for many pleasant memories. One hundred and fifty acres are comprised in the town site. The Park is at the foot of the Rocky Mountain Range, and is sheltered at the rear by a towering cliff 2,000 feet high, and on the two sides by small spurs of the range. A noble growth of large pines is scattered over the Park. A skillful landscape engineer has taken advantage of every natural beauty and studied the best topographical effect, in laying out the streets, parks, reservoirs, drives, walks, trails and lookout points. It is a spot that must be seen to be appreciated, and every visitor, whose opinion has been learned, has come away captivated. There are building sites for all tastes. Some have a grand lookout, taking in a sweep of the valley for a distance of 50 miles, with the fountain in Palmer Lake and the beautiful lake itself in view. Elephant Rock, Table Moun- tain, the town of Monument, the railroad trains from both ways for over an hour before reaching the station can be seen. Others have pretty vistas, partly hidden by the pine branches, promises, so to speak of grand views, but not so ambitious as the first. Still others are sylvan nooks where the shades are deepest and the murmur of the cool waters of the babbling brooks makes music forever. Monument. The five miles ride from Palmer Lake to Monument is interesting. On the left are giant upthrusts of brilliant red rocks castel- ated in shape and reaching an altitude of two and three hundred feet. The town takes its name from the creek which flows near, and the creek is so designated from the curious monumental forms of rock along its course. To the right is the Front Range of the Rockies, which the road parallels from Denver to Pueblo, and near the centre of this stretch of one hundred and twenty miles, stands Pike's Peak. Agriculture and pastoral industries are tributary to Monument. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 56 niiles. Elevation, 6,974 feet.) Two miles beyond is Borst, and four miles further Uusted, both mere side tracks for convenient shipping of cattle and produce. Monument Park is reached by private conveyance from Edgerton Station — distance from Denver, 67 miles. This valley is quite remarkable for the verv fantastic forms into which the action of air and water through TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 21 Colorado Springs. Residence City and Health Resort. Population, 15,000. Distance from Denver, 75 niles. Elevation, 5,005 feet. long reaches of time, have worn the sandstone rocks, forming grotesque groups of figures that very generally keep their broad brimmed sombreros, formed of iron stained cap-rock. Visitors to Monument Park obtain a fine view of Pike's Peak and Cheyenne Mountain Range. A hotel in the Park is open at all times for the accommodation of guests, and can furnish saddle- horses and carriages on premises. The grotesque group of figures into which the cream-colored sandstone rocks have been worn, some of them re- sembling human forms have been given quaint, descriptive titles, viz.: Dutch Wedding, Quaker Meeting, Lone Sentinel, Dutch Parliament, Vul- can's Anvil and Workshop, Romeo and Juliet, Necropolis or Silent City, The Duchess, Mother Judy and Colonnade; all of these and many others too numerous to mention are within easy walking distance to " The Pines." The Park is a favorite resort and has comfortable accommodations for guests. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 67 miles. Elevation, 6,354 feet.) Many of the most influential business men of Colorado have their residence in Colorado Springs. No more delightful home city can be found than this. Mansions and cottages of the highest architectural beauty abound, and the society js composed of cultivated and wealthy people. The town was originally laid out as a health resort, and while it still maintains its superiority in this respect, has grown beyond that single characteristic, and is now a thriving commercial place, in addition to being a favorite residence city. The town is sheltered on the west by the range of mountains with Pike's Peak in the centre, on the east by bluffs, on the north by the spur of the mountains called the "Divide," and on the south- west by Cheyenne Mountain. The streets are unusually wide, one hundred feet, and the avenues are 160 feet broad. Trees line both sides of the streets, and on Nevada avenue, the central street of the city, there are six rows-of trees, two on each side and two down the centre. Water for irrigation is brought into the town by means of a winding canal, and cold, clear water, for domestic uses, is conducted from mountain sources in iron pipes. The pressure is such that no fire engines are necessary, the water being forced from hydrants to the tops of the tallest buildings. Monument Creek flows west of the town, and the Fontaine qui Bouille to the south, where the two streams form a junction. The scenery around Colorado Springs is of a very in- TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 2^ teresting and attractive character. The hotels of Colorado Springs are noted for their excellence; special attention being paid to the entertainment of tourists. There are ample accommodations and of different grades to suit all tastes and pockets. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad has a very handsome stone depot, erected in accordance with good taste and correct architecture. The plains to the east and the mountains to the west give unlimited variety. Cheyenne Canon, Austin's Bluffs, Crystal Park, Cameron's Cone, Monument Park and Manitou, with its environs, are all within the radius of nine miles. Cheyenne Mountain. It is impossible to contemplate the grandeur of Cheyenne's bold outlines and great massiveness, and to become in the least familiar with its ever-varying play of light and shadow, without acknow- ledging the striking beauty of this noble mountain. From Colorado Springs, a superb view of its front is seen. Looking at the mountain it will be ob- served that at almost the nearest point, in reality four miles distant, the base of the mountain is deeply cleft by two yawning chasms, the outer rocks of which present sharp, jagged points. These clefts are, respectively, the North and South Cheyenne Canons. They certainly should be visited by every traveler who has an eye for the beautiful. On the eastern side of Cheyenne Mountain, and accessible from South Cheyenne Canon, is the grave of the well-known auther and poet, " H. H." The direct road from Manitou takes the tourist a distance of eight miles, turns off to the southward from the road to Colorado Springs, on the top of the hill half a mile from the town; they can also be reached by making a detour of one and a half miles through Colorado Springs, and following the continuation of Nevada avenue to the southward. Either road is pleasant, and the drive or ride is one replete with interest, and abounding in attractive scenery. An electric car line runs to the foot of the mountain from Colorado Springs. Broadmoor. Nestling under the shadow of Cheyenne Mountain lies the famous Broadmoor resort. Connected with Colorado Springs and Mani- tou by an electric railway, and therefore easy of access from either of these places, this beautiful spot, with its fine casino, lake, drives, etc., is one of the many attractions surrounding the Western Spa. Colorado City. This town, once the seat of the state capital, is two miles west of Colorado Springs, on the Manitou branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Located in this thriving little town are extensive railroad repair shops, glass works, where the bottles for the famous Mani- tou Water are made, and several large manufactories, making it one of the principal cities of the state. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 78 miles. Elevation, 6,110 feet.) The one resort of all the West is certainly Manitou. The attractions of this watering place have secured for it fame, and fame secures for it largely increasing patronage each year. No resort has had a more rapid growth than this, and none has more truly deserved its pros- perity. There are more places of extraordinary interest to visit in the vicinity of Manitou than can be found contiguous to any other resort in the world. It is situated six miles from Colorado MANITOU. Watering Place, flineral Springs and Health Resort. Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, Si miles. Elevation, 6,324 feet. Illlllr ■■;■ ■/■;,■.'»■ ,< ■ IHlllSflill^W 1 ' F ^l^£^^.f%is& Hi Bin ■I 'tM IS1S111 Mfcl illllB ■a y < TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 25 Springs, immediately at the foot of Pike's Peak. Here are the famous effervescent soda and iron springs which in an early day gave the name of "Springs" to the town of Colorado Springs. A branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad unites the two places, over which trains run daily with sufficient fre- quency to accommodate the most exacting. There are a thousand ways in which to enjoy oneself in Manitou. A favorite pleasure is that of riding. The saddle horses are excellent. Comfortable saddles for ladies and well trained horses are furnished by all the liv- ery stables at reasonable prices. A burro (donkey) brigade is a feature for the special benefit of the children, a careful guide taking the little ones for a ride every morning. Carriage riding and ex- cursions on foot are excellent means of diver- sion. Following is a partial list of places of interest near Manitou with the distance in miles from town attached: THE SEVEN ENNE CANON. Manitou Grand Caverns 2 Cave of the Winds 1 Ute Pass and Rainbow Falls \y 2 Red Canon 3 Crystal Park 3 Garden of the Gods 3 Glen Eyrie 5 Summit of Pikes, by rail 9 " " " " trail 13 Seven Lakes, by horse trail 9 " by carriage road 25 North Cheyenne Canon 8^ South Cheyenne Canon.-- g Broadmoor Casino by electric railway 7 ,,:< 1 1 •%':W ' ; : ~tmimiti t* «•/.' PIKE'S PEAK. Colorado s Landmark. Elevation, •4.«47 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 27 In addition to these well-known localities there are scores of canons, caves, water-falls and charming nooks which the sojourner for health or pleasure can seek out for himself. The village is thronged with visitors throughout the summer months ; it is somewhat cooler and less dry than Colorado Springs in the summer, and warmer in winter. The springs all contain more or less soda and some iron. They are peculiarly adapted for the dyspepsia of the consumptive, and the Ute Iron Spring is especially remarkable for its blood-making qualities. For the pleasure-seeker and the invalid, Manitou is one of the most satisfactory resorts in the State. During the season the hotels are rilled with guests from all parts of the Union. Society is represented by many of its best people, the evenings are made merry with hops and social gatherings, and the days delightful with drives r.nd rides and walks among the myriad of attractions this place affords. Before Colorado had acquired a name, Pike's Peak was the landmark of the Indian, the trapper and the explorer. In later times it was the beacon by which the adventurous gold hunters steered their prairie schooners into the wonderful and mysterious west ; now it has be- come the goal of those in search of the grand and beautiful in Nature, the enjoyments of an attractive summer resort, or the restoration of impaired health. The mountain is one of great beauty, and never entirely discrowned of snow. The Cog Wheel Railroad to the summit of Pike's Peak is the most novel railway in the world. When it reaches its objective point above the clouds, at a height of 14,147 feet above sea-level, it renders almost insignificant, by comparison, the famous cogway up Mt. Washing- ton and the incline railway up the Rhigi in Switzerland. From its station in Manitou, just above the Iron Springs, to the station on the summit of Pike's Peak, the Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is just eight and three-quarter miles in length. The cost of construction of the road was a half million of dollars. While it could have been built for many thousands of dollars less by putting in wooden bridges and trestles, light ties and light rails, those in charge of the building of the road would not consent to the use of any flimsy material for the sake of the saving of any sum of money — a substan- tial road that would insure absolute safety being economical, as well as a guarantee for putting the road from the start on a paying basis. The rail- road closely follows Ruxton Creek, generally at an elevation of two or three hundred feet above it ; the sides of the Glen are clothed with beautiful pines and spruces. Some very pretty falls are passed on the way, two of which are named respectively, the Shelter and the Minnehaha. Stupendous granite boulders are in places piled up in chaotic confusion over the stream, frequently hiding it from view. Two prominent ones are plainly visible from Manitou, and are appropriately named Gog and Magog. One of the most charming features during the ascent is the opportunity afforded for exquisite views of the world below, on looking back through the pine trees with the far-stretching plains glowing in the sun and forming a golden horizon. It goes without saying that the view from the summit is grand beyond description. To any one accustomed to mountain climbing no TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 29 guide is required in making the ascent of Pike's Peak, as the trail is good and well-defined, and there is a station on the summit, where visitors can obtain food and shelter. Fountain. A pretty little town on the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek, fourteen miles south of Colorado Springs. The town has taken a new growth within the past year, and being surrounded by a good grazing and agricultural country, has a fair prospect of permanent improvement. (Pop- ulation 200. Distance from Denver, 88 miles. Elevation, 5,568 feet.) There are between Fountain and Pueblo, side-track stations as follows: Buttes, Wigwam, Pinon, Eden and Dundee. These places are useful to the railroad and convenient for the residents of the surrounding country, but they possess little or no interest for the traveler. All the way from Denver to Pueblo the traveler has the Front Range of mountains on his right, to the west, while on his left are the great plains. Below Colorado Springs the country is very fertile, and good crops are grown wherever water for irrigation can be procured. "The Pittsburgh of the West" is a title often conferred on Pueblo, and it is the name which pleases its citizens best, and which comes the nearest to expressing the salient character- istics of the town. It is a live city, full of enter- prise and push, and it has been favored by Nature, both in the matter of its immediate situation and of its surroundings. Plenty of coal is found not fifty miles away, iron ore is not more distant, and on the mesa, just south of the town, is Bessemer, the site of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Works, one of the largest plants of this character in the world. There are also many great smelters for the reduction of gold and silver ores, together with a large number of manufactories, planing mills, flouring mills, machine shops, etc. The city of Pueblo is surrounded by great stretches of rich agricultural land, which in places here and there is under a high state of cultivation. But it is only here and there that cultivation shows its elevating work. Tourists wonder at this, and cannot divine why, if the land is rich, it should lie fallow and uncultivated. The answer is easy to find. All this land is arid. Crops will not grow without water, and the rains of heaven are not half copious enough to promote the growth of vegetation. Where the land is watered by irrigation it is as fertile as the valley of the Nile, where it is not irrigated it is nearly as sterile as the desert of Sahara. This condition of affairs will not long remain. Storage reservoirs to conserve the winter and spring rainfall and snow deposits are in contemplation, also a series of great canals to be taken from the Arkansas river to carry the water on to the waiting land. In the meantime this uncultivated country, which appears so barren, supports tens of thousands of sheep and cattle. The short, dry crisp, curled buffalo grass, which looks about as succulent as shavings, actually contains great nutritive qualities, and if cattle or sheep can get enough of it they grow fat and command the highest price in the markets. Pastoral and agricultural interests contribute to Pueblo's prosperity, (wq trunk lines of railroad centre here, and manufactories increase the business of the town. Many people of great wealth make Pueblo their home and PUEBLO, Commercial and Manufacturing City. Population, 35,000. Distance from Denver, 120 miles. Elevation, 4,667 feet. Dining Station. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 3i do business here. Handsome mansions, pretty cottages, large business blocks, and line stocks of all kinds of merchandise testify to the good taste and enterprise of Pueblo's citizens. It is admitted on all sides that this must of necessity become the leading manufacturing town between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, and the manufacturers in the East who contemplate extending or removing their works, are now carefully studying the resources of Pueblo. Pueblo is well provided with hotels, one of them representing an expense of $250,000 in its erection. All grades of excellence can be found among the hostelfies, and the traveler will find no difficulty in securing accommodations suited to his tastes. Through Pueblo, the traveler passes to reach Santa Fe, Espanola, Durango and Silvertoh on the south. Canon City, Salida,. Leadville, Glenwood Springs, Aspen, Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, and Ogden on west enroute to San Francisco; and Gunnison, Montrose and Ouray, via the narrow gauge line over Mar- shall Pass. Parnassus Spring's. A pleasant drive of twelve miles, southwest of Pueblo, takes us to Parnassus Springs, among the foot hills of the Green- horn Mountains. These waters — muriated alkaline — have been tested with marked benefit, especially in cases characterized as gastric complaints. Carlile Spring's are situated twenty miles above Pueblo, on the Arkansas river. These purgative alkaline waters are as yet unimproved, but give good promise of becoming popular on account of their medicinal qualities. Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring. This celebrated spring in the suburbs of Pueblo, has recently been improved by the erection of a large bath house, fitted up with all the latest improvements and con- veniences for bathing. M(< ^ PUEBLO TO OGDEN. P ROM Denver to Pueblo, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, the traveler has followed the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains and kept his course mainly to the south. At Pueblo, however, he turns his face westward, and this will be his outlook, in the main, until he finds himself standing on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, watching the descent of the sun into the wilderness of waters. The country between Pueblo and Florence is fine agricultural land, being the bottoms of the Arkansas River, up whose course the railroad follows until Salida is reached, ninety-seven miles from Pueblo. Back from the river rise high buttes of sandstone worn into fan- tastic shapes by the action of the elements. Banded with a great variety of colors and dotted here and there by groups of pines, the scene is one of much interest and adds an element of variety to the journey, which is ex- ceedingly grateful to the traveler. The river bottoms are irrigated by means of ditches taken from the river, and the result is crops of marvelous growth and yield. One interesting and peculiar feature is the frequent occurrence of the ancient Egyptian water wheels suspended in the current of the Arkansas. This method of securing water for irrigation is rarely ob- served in Colorado. This valley of the Arkansas is also a good fruit country, and grapes and apples grow in abundance and of fine quality. Florence. This town is in the centre of the coal oil fields of Colorado. Glancing from the car window the traveler will here see the tall derricks of the well machinery and the tanks for storing, together with the tank cars for transporting the oil. There are between fifty and sixty wells already in operation and more are being sunk. The oil is used for lubrication and fuel, and gives the best of satisfaction. Florence is the junction point of the Denver & Rio Grande and the Florence & Cripple Creek Rail- roads ; the latter line having been completed and opened for business to Colorado's famous Gold Camp — Cripple Creek — on July 4th, 1894. This new railroad has made this bustling little city one of the foremost in the state. (Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 152 miles. Elevation, 5,199 feet.) The Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad. This railroad, forty miles in length, has been but recently built for the purpose of open- ing up to commerce the vastly rich gold fields of Cripple Creek and vicinity. The principal points on the line are Arequa, Anaconda, Victor and Cripple Creek itself, all of which are heavy shippers of rich gold ores. The scenery on this line from beginning to end, is of a most beautiful char- acter, canons and gorges, mountain peaks and passes, valleys and vales- combined in a panorama of startling loveliness. 32 TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 33 The town of Cripple Creek has advanced CRIPPLE CREEK. Great Gold Hining Town. Population, 5,000. Elevation, 9,400 feet. Distance from Denver, 193 fliles. with the prosperity of the mining district of which it is the centre. From a camp of a few wooden shanties and tents, a few years ago, it has risen to a well-built, well-defined mining town. . Brick buildings are being erected in the business centre and dwellings of a permanent character are dotting the slopes around the town. There is a stability about it which is most encouraging. The hotel accommodations are first-class, considering the age of the town. The population is about 5.000. There is an excellent .water service, the supply being piped from the mountains above, and the town is peaceably and well governed. The advent of the railroads, the great attention being paid to gold mining and the immense quantities of ore that are being uncovered in the mining district, all go to show that Cripple Creek is but entering upon an era of great prosperity. The Cripple Creek Gold Mini tig District is situated near the western base of Pike's Peak at an elevation of 9,400 feet. It consists of rolling hills, sparsely wooded, and small valleys and gulches. Lying a little south of west from Colorado Springs at a distance of about twenty miles in an air line, seventy miles from Denver and forty-four miles from Pueblo, down to 1891 it was to all intents and purposes exclusively a pastoral district. It is true that for many years past, in fact ever since 1859, prospectors have, from time to time, been over the ground and brought back samples which demonstrated the presence of gold. However, no serious efforts were made toward development, though some exploration work was done, as for instance in 1S74 when a tunnel was driven in Arequa Creek, and again in 1879 m Poverty Gulch. In these, as in other instances prospectors were unfortunate and just missed the ore which is now being profitably mined. In February, 1891, some Colorado Springs men determined upon a serious attempt to test the capabilities of the district, taking up several claims which promised so well that, during the following spring and summer, many prospectors flocked in and by the close of the year some 2,000 people were there, really determined to prove its worth. The camp was now well under way and during 1892 its progress was rapid. Work was mainly confined to the location and establishment of claims, and testing their value. In the course of that year some ten or a dozen mines became regular shippers of ore and their output reached a total of some $600,000. During 1893 progress has been still more rapid. Numerous new claims have been located and the number of regular shipping mines has increased to some seventy or eighty, while many others not actual shippers have pay ore in sight and the total output has increased to $2,400,000 for the year. This would seem to be a very creditable showing but a much increased rate of progress may be hoped for in the immediate future. Coal Creek Branch. A branch line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad runs from Florence to Coal Creek, a distance of six miles, where excellent and extensive coal mines are in operation. This line is one of great commercial importance, opening one of the most extensive coal fields in the state. 34 OVER THE RANGE CANON CITY. Health and Pleasure Resort. Business Centre. Distance from Denver, 160 Miles. Population, 3,500. Elevation, 5,243 feet. Coal Creek is at the terminus of this branch of the line. It is well supplied with stores and shops of all kinds and does a thriving business. (Population, 1,500. Distance from Denver, 155 miles. Elevation, 5,360 feet.) This city is rightly named, for it stands at the entrance to the greatest canon penetrated by any railroad. The Grand Canon of the Arkansas is acknowledged by a universal con- sensus of opinion to be one of the great wonders of the world. The Arkansas River, which rises in Fremont Park, one hundred and seventy miles to the northwest of Canon City, here breaks its way through the Front Range of mountains and enters upon its uneventful course to the Mississippi. The town is one of the oldest in Colorado, and is essentially a place of pleasant homes. It is the county-seat of Fremont County, and the seat of the State Penitentiary. Its warm and equable climate makes it a favorite resort for in- valids. In addition to its pleasant climate it possesses valuable mineral springs, both hot and cold. The water of the cold springs is almost icy in temperature, and strongly impregnated with soda. The cold springs are situated just above the Peni tentiary. The scenery round about Canon City is exceedingly attractive. The drive of about twelve miles to the brink of the Royal Gorge and the view of that wonder- ful chasm from the top, which can there be obtained, are ex- periences never to be forgotten. The town and its contiguous country possess the finest orchards in the state, and the cultivation of fruit has become a leading industry. The city is well built, has handsome business blocks and comfortable and elegant residences. The Hot Springs. Having left Canon City and traversed a mile to the westward the traveler will observe to his left, a picturesque, many GRAPE CREEK CANON. ROVAL GORGE. 36 OVER THE RANGE. gabled building, across die river, a rustic foot bridge leading thereto. This is the Royal Gorge Hotel situated at the Hot Springs. The hotel has excellent accommodations for guests and is a favorite resort for health and pleasure seekers. The springs are recommended by physicians as excel- lent in cases of cutaneous and blood diseases. Prof. Loew's analysis of the waters is as follows : Grains in a Gallon of Water Temperature of 104 deg. Fall. Chloride of Sodium 18.2 Sulphate of Soda 79-3 Carbonate of Soda 73.2 Carbonate of Lime 33.5 Carbonate of Magnesia 12.8 Lithia Trace. 217.0 Baths have been provided at the hotel and are supplied with all the modern conveniences. Silver Cliff" Branch. This branch, 33 miles in length, which turns to the left just as the train enters the Grand Canon, two miles above Canon City, has its terminus at West Cliff. It passes through most charming scenery and enters an exceedingly fertile country, the Wet Mountain Val ley surrounding the terminal station. Its greatest claim to scenic attrac- tion is the fact that it passes through a canon only less grand than that of the Arkansas. Grape Creek CaiiOii. Among the many remarkable canons for which the State of Colorado is famous, there is probably none which presents more attractions to the lover of nature, or which combines the sublime with the beautiful more perfectly, than that of Grape Creek. This beautiful stream takes its rise among the lofty and almost inaccessible peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Range, and flowing nearly northward, waters in its course the beautiful and fertile Wet Mountain Valley ; then passing near the famous Silver Cliff mining camp it continues its tortuous course in an easterly direction until it enters the Arkansas River about a mile above Canon City, just where the river leaves the Grand Canon, after its terrific conflict with the granite cliffs, and tossing its foam crests high in the air, makes its last triumphant exit from the mountains. The walls of this canon present a splendid study for the geologist, as piled up in many places over a thousand feet in nearly vertical height, they exhibit the various formations of primary rock in a striking and peculiar manner. The entrance to the canon for over a mile follows the windings of the clear flowing creek, with gently sloping hills on either side covered with low spruce and pinon, and with grass plats and brilliant flowers, in season, far up their slopes, and the Spanish lance and bush cactus presents their bristling points wherever a little soil affords them sustenance. To examine this canon thoroughly a carriage or saddle-horses should be taken from Canon City, but as the train ascent of the grades must be^made slowly, a very satisfactory view can be gained from the cars in passing. West Cliff". This town is beautifully situated in the Wet Mountain 38 OVER THE RANGE. THE ROYAL GORGE. Valley, surrounded by a fine grazing and agricultural country. The view is a grand one, lofty mountains bounding the entire circle of the horizon. A mile from the station is Silver Cliff, which after the discovery of the Racine Boy mine, was the centre of a tremendous rush of miners, resulting in several other great discoveries, but the large mines were few in number and the prospectors left for other fields. The good mines are still produc- tive and add their quota to the prosperity of the valley. West Cliff is the shipping point for Silver Cliff and Rosita, being the railroad station. (Pop- ulation, 800. Distance from Denver, 194 miles. Elevation, 7,864 feet.) ROYAL GORGE. Distance from Denver, 163 miles. Greatest Height of Walls, 2 ,627 feet. Length, 7 miles. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 39 ju&i beyond Canon City the railway enters the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, the narrowest portion of which is known as the Royal Gorge. When arsi examined it seemed impossible that a railway could ever be constructed through this stupendous canon to Leadville and the west. There was scarcely room for the river alone, and granite ledges blocked the path with. their mighty bulk. In time, however, these obstruc- tions were blasted away, a road-bed closely following the contour of the cliffs was made, and to-day the canon is a well-used thoroughfare. But its grandeur still remains. After entering its depths, the train moves slowly along the side of the Arkansas, and around projecting shoulders of dark-hued granite, deeper and deeper into the heart of the range. The crested crags grow higher, the river madly foams along its rocky bed, and anon the way becomes a mere fissure through the heights. Far above the road the sky forms a deep blue arch of light ; but in the Gorge hang dark and sombre shades which the sun's rays have never penetrated. The place is a measureless gulf of air with solid walls on either side. Here the gran- ite cliffs are a thousand feet high, smooth and unbroken by tree or shrub ; and there a pinnacle soars skyward for thrice that distance. No flowers grow, and the birds care not to penetrate the solitudes. The river, sombre and swift, breaks the awful stillness with its roar. Soon the cleft becomes still more narrow, the treeless cliffs higher, the river closer confined, and where a long iron bridge hangs suspended from the smooth walls, the grandest portion of the canon is reached. Man becomes dwarfed and dumb in the sublime scene, and Nature exhibits the power she possesses. The crags menacingly rear their heads above the daring intruders, and the place is like the entrance to some infernal region. Escaping from the Gorge, the narrow valley' of the upper Arkansas is traversed, with the strik- ing serrated peaks of the Sangre de Cristo close at hand on the west, until Salida is reached. There are a number of stations between Canon City and Salida, but none of them are of special interest to the tourist, except that fishing and hunting can be found in the immediate vicinity of any of them. Parkdale. This is the point where tourists who desire only to see the famous Royal Gorge disembark from the west bound train, to return again to Pueblo, Colorado Springs or Denver. (Population nominal. Dis- tance from Denver, 172 miles. Elevation, 5,737 feet.) Beautiful Mountain View. Emerging from the canon, a most beautiful mountain view is obtained ; to the left stretch the serrated sum- mits of the Sangre de Cristo Range, while to the front and right are the towering peaks of the Collegiate Mountains. Wellsville Hot Spring's are on our left across the Arkansas River, six miles before Salida is reached. Here is a natural warm plunge bath, the waters of which are strongly impregnated with medicinal qualities. The Wellsville Springs are a favorite resort, and are made the objective point for many pleasant excursion parties. 40 OVER THE RANGE. This prosperous town is situated on the right bank of the Arkansas River, anil is the con- verging point of the four great divisions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The first division being the line to the east ; the second is the main line to the west via Leadville, Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction ; the third is the narrow gauge line to Grand Junction over Marshall Pass and via Gunnison and Mon- trose, and the fourth is the southern extension to Alamosa, Durango, Silverton and Santa Fe. The view of the mountains from Salida is especially grand. The Colleg- iate Range rises to the west with Yale, Harvard and Princeton Peaks in plain view crowned with perpetual snow, while to the south stands the SALIDA. Health and Pleasure Resort and Business Centre. Population, 3,000. Distance from Denver, 217 miles. Elevation, 7,049 feet. Eating Station. SROWN'S CANON. Sangre de Cristo Range, and in the south-west tower Ouray and Shaveno. The beauty of its situation, the near proximity to hot medicinal springs, the wonderful salubrity of its climate, make Salida an extremely popular health and pleasure resort. Tributary to the town are mines of copper, silver, gold, iron and coal, great quantities of charcoal are burned near Salida. and the agricultural and pastoral interest are of great extent. The trip from Salida to Grand Junction and Ogden abounds in interest for the tourist. It leads one through a most varied country, and presents to the inspection of the traveler almost every variety of industry, from the agri- culture and stock raising of the Arkansas, Eagle and Grand River Valleys to the gold and silver mining of Leadville and Aspen, and it may be said, in passing, that. Leadville and Aspen are two of the greatest mining camps in the world and well worthy of a visit. The scenery after Salida is passed grows in interest with each mile of advance. We are steaming up the left bank of the Arkansas River, and are cussing the western border of the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 41 Great South Park. The mountains capped with snow shut us in throughout the whole circle of the horizon. The Collegiate Range, including the peaks of Yale, Harvard and Princeton to our left, and beyond, the great volcano- made cones of Ouray and Shaveno, which tower above Marshall Pass. Away off to the right are the Kenosha Hills. Agriculture and stock raising are the main industries of South Park, and the ranchmen find these pur- suits of an exceedingly lucrative character. A number of small stations are passed beyond Salida as follows: Brown's Canon, Hecla Junction, Xathrop and Midway. Brown's Canon. After passing the station of Brown's Canon, fine views of the Sangre de Cristo peaks present themselves close by, and then the rocks are heaped up again into the grand defile of Brown's Canon, where one of our illustrations was made. Calumet Branch. Just before entering Brown's Canon, a branch road can be seen running off to the northward. That is the short road up to Calumet, where the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company have iron mines of great value and in constant operation, for the ore is suitable for the making of Bessemer steel. These mines are open, quarry-like excavations, and the ore is therefore more easily handled than is usual. The grade on this branch, four hundred and six feet to the mile, is said to be the heaviest in the world where no cog-wheels are used. Only a few empty cars can be hauled up; and the difficulty is almost as great in descending, for it requires at least four cars, dragging with hard set brakes, to hold an engine under control in going down. Marble and lumber in great quantities are also shipped down this little branch from the neighborhood of Calumet. Buena Vista. Buena Vista is the county seat of Chaffee County. The town was incorporated in the month of December, 1879, an d, for its age, is a wonderfully thriving place. It is beautifully situated on the Arkansas River, thirty-six miles below Leadville and 242 miles from Denver. The town is quite an important station, and is surrounded by good mines of gold and silver, fine pasture lands for stock and many improved ranches. The city has an abundance of pure water, fine shade trees, churches, schools,, stores, etc. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 242 miles. Elevation, 7,970 feet.) Cottonwood Springs. The Cottonwood Hot Springs have long been famous in Colorado for their curative properties. They were the resort of the Indians before the whites took possession of the country, and have since been greatly improved and made accessible to invalids and tourists. The springs are situated six miles from Buena Vista, whence a stage line conveys passengers arriving on the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- road to the springs. For cases of inflammatory rheumatism, lead poison- ing, and diseases of the blood, these waters possess remarkable curative properties. The scenery of the valley in which the springs are situated is of great loveliness, the Collegiate Range of mountains forming an imposing background. Fine trout fishing can be found in ten minutes' walk up and down Cottonwood Creek, and the neighboring hills abound in game. There are good accommodations here for tourists and invalids. After leaving Buena Vista the following small stations are passed: Americus, Riverside, Pine Creek, and Twin Lakes (station). TWIN LAKES. Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 9,357 feet. TO THE GOLDEX GATE. 43 Granite. At this point the stage line to Twin Lakes connects with the trains. Placer mining by huge hydraulic systems are in full operation and have been successfully worked for the past twenty years. (Population, 150. Elevation, 8,945 feet. Distance from Denver, 259 miles.) The station of Twin Lakes must not be confounded with the lakes themselves. These most beautiful mountain tarns are best reached by a seven miles stage ride from Granite Station. The drive is in itself a delightful experience, and the lakes prove a most charming culmination. You find yourself in a little valley about seven miles in area. Around you on all sides, looming up grand and precipitous, are snow-capped mountain peaks, each of them towering fully a mile high, from where you stand, completely walling you in from the outer world. These mountains are Mount Elbert, La Plata, and Twin Peaks, each of them higher than the famous Pike's Peak, Lake Mountain, Mount Sheridan, and Park Range. They are all more or less covered, up to the timber line, with fir and spruce trees, the fragrance of which perfumes the atmosphere, and, owing to the rarified air, the tops of the peaks, on which rest the eternal snows, seem so near that you think you could almost throw a stone to their summits, though in fact the length of that very uphill stone- throw would be considerably more than a mile. For about three-fourths of its area the valley is occupied by the lakes, and to an ordinary observer it is plain that these lakes were formerly one and occupied the whole valley up to the very foot of the mountains. At present, however, they are twins — Siamese twins — for they are connected by a mountain stream, which, as well as the lakes themselves, abound in the most delicious mountain trout that ever nibbled at a hook or smoked on a platter. Now let us row out into the middle of the upper lake. It seems as if you were in the centre of a mighty amphitheatre, the arena of which is water, the sloping sides fir- clad mountains, and the roof a great bowl in- verted, painted a gorgeous blue and lightly resting on the snow-capped mountains. The sizzling dweller of cities may ask what is the thermometer here? 1 do not know. I never saw one here. These people have no more use for a thermometer than a toad has for a pocket-book. Old Sol rises bright and fierce-looking every morning in an Italian sky, but his rays are so tempered by the breezes from the mountains that by time they reach the valley they are just pleasantly warm and exhilarating. But there is one thing his rays will do, and city folk would better beware of them if they do not want to peel off their outer cuticle, they will sunburn as effectually as il conveyed through the medium of a burning glass; this is owing to the rarity of the atmosphere. Flannels can and ought to be worn here every day, and a person sitting reading or writing in-doors for an hour or so, in a room where there is no fire, and while the sun is shining brightly outside, will find the cold stealing up his nether limbs. Returning to Granite and resuming the journey, the following small stations are passed: Hayden, Crystal Lake, Malta and Filer. 44 OVER THE RANGE. LEADVILLE, The Great "Carbonate Camp.' ' Population, 20,000. Elevation, 10,200 feet. Distance from Denver, 277 miles. This wonderful Cloud City first became known to lame in 1859 :vs California Gulch, one of the richest placer camps in Colorado. From 1859 to 1864 $5,000,000 in gold dust were washed from the ground of this gulch. The camp was afterwards nearly abandoned, and it was not until 1876 that the carbonate beds of silver were discovered. Immediately after this discovery a great rush ensued to the carbonate camp, which was named Leadville, and the population rose from a nominal number to 30,000. Leadville is the county seat of Lake County. It is the third city in size in Colorado, and the greatest and most unique carbonate mining camp in the world. The visitor to Leadville is irresistibly reminded of the words of Joaquin Miller: "Colorado, rare Colorado! Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown grass; the boundless plains for a play- ground; she is set on a hill before the world, and the air is very clear, so that all may see her well." The city is lighted by gas and electricity; has telephonic communication with surrounding points; has the usual conven- iences and luxuries of cities of corresponding size, and in all respect ranks as one of the greatest cities of this great State. Leadville is one of the most interesting cities in the world to the tourist. It abounds in scenes of a novel and characteristic nature, and presents views of life entirely foreign to the conventional. Mining methods are here fully illustrated in every form, from lode mining to hydraulic and sluicing work. Leadville has a handsome theatre, the Tabor Opera House, having a seating capacity of 1,000. The scenery around Leadville is magnificent. It is walled in on all sides by towering mountains whose summits are crowned with eternal snow. Occupying so high an altitude, the effect is remarkable, and tourists can find no more striking nor interesting scenes than those presented by Leadville and its weird and wonderful surroundings. Leadville is well supplied with good hotels. Livery accommodations are first-class, and the boulevard affords one of the finest drives in the State. Situated on the front ol Mount Massive, at the mouth of Colorado Gulch, and distant five miles from Leadville are the popular Soda Springs and Evergreen Lakes. The boulevard, a carefully constructed drive, one hundred feet in width, and as smooth as a race track, gives access to the springs and lakes, a stage connecting with Leadville twice a day. The springs are strongly impreg- nated with soda, and are of a highly medicinal character. There is excel- lent trout fishing within a few minutes' walk of the springs, pleasant drives and rides are numerous, and placer as well as lode mining are in progress in near proximity, easily accessible to the inspection of the tourist. As a business point, Leadville is recognized as among the first in the State; with its large population, great smelting works and vast mining industry, it cannot help commanding the attention of business men and investors. Between Leadville and Tennessee Pass are the following unimportant stations: Leadville Junction, Keeldar and Crane's Park. Tennessee Pass. Rising along a tortuous path cut at a heavy grade, as usual, into the side hills, we mount slowly into Tennessee Pass, which feeds the head of Eagle River on one side and one source of the MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS. 46 OVER THE RANGE Arkansas on the other. It is a comparatively low and easy pass, covered everywhere with dense timber, and a wagon road has long been followed through it. Reaching an elevation of quite 10,433 Ieet » tne train darts into a tunnel half a mile long and on emerging at the western end we are on the Pacific slope. There is nothing to be seen except an occasional pile of ties, or a charcoal oven, save that now and then a gap in the hills shows the gray rough summits of Galena, Homestake, and the other hights that gudrd the Holy Cross. At each end of the Pass is a little open glade or "park," where settlers have placed their cabins and fenced off a few acres of level ground whereon to cut hay, for nothing else will grow at this great elevation. We can do no better service to the tourist than to quote Ernest Inger- soll's description of this famous mountain given in "The Crest of the Continent." He says: "One of the side valleys, coming down to the track at right angles from the southwestward — I think it is Homestake Gulch — leads the eye up through a glorious alpine avenue to where the cathedral crest of a noble peak pierces the sky. It is a summit that would attract the eye anywhere, — its feet hidden in verdurous hills, guarded by nightly crags, half-buried in seeth- ing clouds, its helmet vertical, frowning, plumed with gleaming snow, — riOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS. Elevation, 14,176 feet. ' Ay, every inch a king.' "It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic characters as dwarf all human graving, and set on the pinnacle of the world as though in sign of possession forever. The Jesuits went hand in hand with the Chevalier Dubois, proclaiming Christian Gospel in the northern forests; the Puritan brought his Testament to New England, the Spanish banners of victory on the Golden shores of the Pacific were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Francisco; the frozen Alaskan cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. Paul. On every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ, and with all the eclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered, before any of them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the Cross had been planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured generations, as a sign of glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity a reminder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proudest eminence. What matters it whether we write 'God' in the con- stitution of the United States, when here in the sight of all men is inscribed this marvelous testimony to his sovereignty! Shining grandly out of the pure ether, and above all turbulence of earthly clouds, it says: Humble thy- self, O man! Measure thy fiery works at their true insignificance. Uncover thy head and acknowledge thy weakness. Forget not, that as high above thy gilded spires gleams the splendor of this ever-living Cross, so are My thoughts above thy thoughts, and My ways above thy ways." Craue's Park is a beautiful park in the mountains at the western foot of Tennessee Pass. Here are to be seen the kilns of charcoal burners, and a wonderful valley and mountain view. EAGLE RIVER CANON. Height of Walls, 2,000 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 47 Red Cliff Canou. Just beyond Crane's Park the railroad enters Red Cliff Canon, a comparatively short but very interesting gorge in the mountains. Red Cliff. This picturesque little town is the country seat of Eagle County, and the entrepot of a large mining district. The mines of the Battle Mountain and other districts contribute greatly to the business of the place. Leadville with its smelters is only 25 miles distant, and this fact is also an element of success among the many which give promise of future prosperity to the town. The scenery around Red Cliff is of the grandest and most beautiful description. To reach the town the traveler makes the ascent and descent of Tennessee Pass, and obtains the best distant view that can be had of the famous Mount of the Holy Cross. Just beyond Red Cliff are the wonders of Eagle River Canon. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 300 miles. Elevation, 8,615 feet.) Beyond Red Cliff the Eagle River Canon opens to the view at first a comparatively wide expanse, later more narrow, walled in on each side by cliffs of vari-colored rocks, whose lofty and apparently insurmountable summits bear the dark banners of the pine. Admiration and awe at this stupendous work of Nature take possession of the mind, when suddenly these emotions are overshadowed by wonder and almost incredulous surprise at the daring of man, for there above us on the right, perched like the nest of heaven-scaling eagles, rest the habita- tions of men ! There are the shaft houses and abiding places of adventur- ous miners, who, having climbed these cliffs, pick in hand, have here discovered rich veins of the precious metal, which, being blasted from its matrix, is conveyed to the railroad track 2,000 feet below, by a most ingen- ious system of tramways and endless steel ropes. There is something very impressive in the sight of these frail cliff-perched dwellings; and the shaft- penetrated, tunnel-pierced peaks suggest irresistibly the fabled cavernous labyrinths of " Kor." Nowhere can the traveler find a more interesting and instructive illustration of mining methods than is here presented by the shaft-scarred sides of Battle Mountain and the pinnacle-perched eyries of Eagle River Canon. Milltlirn. Having passed through the canon, the train brings up at the eating station at Minturn, where a first class meal is always obtainable. (Population, nominal. Elevation, 7,823 feet. Distance from Denver, 308 miles.) The Valley of the Eag'le. Leaving Minturn, one enters the Valley of Eagle River. Quieter scenes of pastoral and agricultural achievements follow. Here are comfortable ranch houses surrounded by fertile fields ; there are herds of cattle feeding contentedly in natural pas- tures ; while on all sides are seen evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty. The Eagle River, a beautiful stream, whose pellucid waters do not conceal the bright colored gravel of its bed, meanders through the valley, adding to the beauty of the scene, and carrying with it the practical benefits of irri- gation, without which the soil would produce nothing but vegetation suitable for grazing purposes. The clear, cold water swarms with trout, and 4 8 OVER THE RANGE here the disciples of old Izaak Walton cannot fail to find ample room and verge for plying their gentle craft. In our journey through the valley we pass the following stations: Rock Creek, Allenton, Sher- wood, Eagle, Gypsum, Dotsero, Shoshone and Sulphur Springs. CANON OF THE GRAND RIVER. A Marvelous Gorge. One of the World's Wonders. EXPLORING THE WALLS. Gradually the valley narrows, high bluffs hem us in on the left, the river is close to the track on the right, and its fertile banks suddenly change into a tumbled, twisted, black and blasted ex- panse of scoria, the out- pouring of some ancient volcano of tremendous activity. The few trees on the hither side of the stream are also black, an inheritance of fire; the waters under the black banks, and reflecting the blackened trees, take on a swarthy hue — a Styg- ian picture! Just beyond, a distant glimpse of fertile country, and the clear waters of the Eagle are lost in the muddy current of the Grand, and a canon greater in extent and more varied in character than that of the Arkansas opens be- fore us. As the train speeds downward, the mountains on the horizon TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 49 behind us seem to rise up towards the zenith as though the miracle of crea- tion was being repeated before our eyes. Soon, however, the distant mountains are shut out and only the sky above, the river and track beneath and the cliffs around are visible ; and here begins a panorama, kaleido- scopic in its ever changing forms and colors, the wonder of the one who sees, the despair of the one who wished to tell others what he saw. In places the effect is that of giant Egptian art and architecture. Vast bastions of granite, strata on strata, rise to a stupendous height, braced against rock masses behind them, infinitely vaster. Suggestions of the Sphinx and of the pyramids can be caught in the severe and gigantic rock- piled structures on every hand. These are not made up of boulders, nor are they solid monoliths; like those in the Royal Gorge. On the con- trary, they are columns, bastions, buttresses, walls, pyramids, towers, turrets, even statues, of stratified stone, with sharp cleavage, not in the least weather-worn, presenting the appearance of Brobdignagian masonry — hence I use the phrase "rock-piled structures" advisedly and as best descriptive of what there exists. But the kaleidoscope is shaken and the rock pieces are re-arranged. The effect is startling. We have left Egypt, with her shades of gray and her frowning, massive and gigantic forms. We are in a region of glowing colors, where the vermillion, the maroon, the green and the yellow abound and mingle and contrast. What strange country was the prototype of this? Ah I yonder is something characteristic — a terraced pyramid banded with brilliant and varied colors — the teocoli of the Aztecs. Whirling around a headland of glowing red rock, which it seems ought to be called "Flamingo Point," we are in a region of ruddy color and of graceful forms. Minarets, from whose summits the muezzin's call might readily be imagined falling upon the ears of the dwellers in this "Orient in the West," spires more graceful than that of Bruges, more lofty than that of Trinity, towers more marvelous than Pisa's leaning wonder, columns more curious than that of Vendome, splintered and airy pinnacles, infinite in variety, innumerable! inimitable! indescribable! In a moment darkness and the increased rumble of wheels ; then light and another marvelous view. We have passed tunnel No. i, the portcullis; darkness again for a moment, then the blue sky above us. We have entered through the postern gate; darkness for the third time — absolute, unmitigated blackness of darkness; this must be "the deepest dungeon 'neath the castle moat." But soon again we see the blessed light, and there before us lies Glenwood Springs! — Colorado's Greatest Resort. Glenwood Springs is the pleasure and health resort of Colorado, as well as a flourishing and growing town. It is the county seat of Gar- field County. The picturesque scenery of the Grand River, from its source midst the peaks and crags of the Rockies, to its debouch into the magnificent waters of the broad Colorado, has been the theme of able writers in prose and poetry, but at no spot in its rapid march to the sea, do the waters of the Grand glisten and ripple upon the shores of a lovelier valley than Glenwood Springs. Health and Pleasure Resort. Wonderful Hot Springs. Distance from Denver, 367 miles. Elevation, 5,758 feet. Population, 3,000. 50 OVER THE RANGE. at its confluence with the Roaring Fork, where are situated the springs and city of Glenwood. Here the sentinel ranges, which have guarded the stormy passage of the turbulent stream through mountain pass and precip- itous canon, seem to have deployed their ranks, that they might surround and embrace a valley so lovely in its landscape and set in a frame of such scenic grandeur. The springs themselves are phenomenal, innumerable fountains bubbling up over an area covering both sides of the river, and varying in volume from twenty to one thousand cubic inches per second. The principal springs on the north side of the Grand River discharge an immense body of water, heated in nature's furnace to 140 degrees Fahren- heit, which flows in a broad stream to its outlet through an aqueduct recently constructed, forming a beautiful island, upon which is erected a com- modious and well appointed bathing house, provided with every convenience for sitz, plunge and vapor bathing. The waters have been found of great benefit to invalids, and as a result the springs are largely patronized. Aside from the beautiful valley selected for its site, and the attractions pre- sented by its wonderful springs, Glenwood City possesses many advantages and material resources which are destined to make it one of the most im- portant points on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The town has electric lights, water works, and all of the modern improvements. Glen- wood is well supplied with hotels. The new Hotel Colorado, completed and opened in June, 1893, at a cost of £350,000, is probably one of the finest resort hotels in the United States. It is built of Roman tiles and Colorado peach-blow stone and contains two hundred guest rooms and forty private baths, is built in Italian style, and located under the shadow of the mountains, with the banks of the famous Tool immediately in front of it. It is sur- rounded by beautiful parks and drives, and withal, is a most delightful place to spend a season. This beautiful hotel is owned by Mr. Walter Raymond of the Raymond Vacation Excursions, and all the parties man- aged by him spend at least a week here. The hotel is under the manage- ment of Mr. A. W.Bailey, formerly of Manitou, whose ability as a hotel manager is second to none in the country. There are two other hotels, though less pretentious, the Hotel Glenwood and the Hotel Harlow. Accommodations for IJiitliili^. The bath house recently erected at the wonderful hot springs here, is of the most elegant design. It is built of red sandstone, and the walls of all rooms are of red or cream colored pressed brick, wainscoted with Texas pine and colored enamels. There are forty-four large bath rooms, in two departments, for the respective sexes. Each bath room has two compartments. One is lined with enamel and set with a porcelain tub, having bronze appliances for readily supply- ing hot, warm or cold, mineral water ; and hot, warnV or cold, fresh water, also showers of warm or cold water. Any desired temperature, from 45 up to 120 Fahrenheit can be supplied. The other compartment is furnished as a dressing room, and provided with a settee for reclining after the bath. These compartments have high ceilings and are well lighted from elevated windows by day, and by incandescent electric lamps at night. Light re- freshments are served in each room by attendants summoned by electric bells. Massage treatment is administered in a room for that purpose. Besides the bath rooms, the building contains handsome sitting and smok- ing rooms with open fires, physician's room, billiard room, coffee kitchen, 52 OVER THE RANGE. linen rooms, hair dressing rooms, laundry, etc. All rooms are kept supplied with fresh air at an equable temperature throughout the year. Every accessory for the luxurious and health-giving bath is provided in the build- ing. The baths are supplied from the main spring, which yields a constant flow of 2,500,000 gallons per day of highly mineralized hot water, at a temperature of 124.2 Fahrenheit. This water is a remarkable remedial agent, aiding or effecting cures of scrofula, rheumatism, gout, lead poison- ing, diabetes, Bright's disease, and all skin and blood diseases. The new bath house stands on the margin of the Mammoth Swimming Pool. The Bathing' Pool. This is remarkable for its size and the com- pleteness of its conveniences. It is nearly six hundred feet in length, by one hundred and ten feet in width at the widest part. Its depth gradually increases from three and one-half feet at one end to six feet at the other. The walls are of red sandstone, and the bottom is paved with hard pressed brick. Its surface area is 43,000 square feet, or one acre ; and the capacity, 1,500,000 gallons. It is constantly supplied with mineral water from the main and Yampa Springs, and kept at a temperature of about 95 Fahren- heit. There are one hundred and thirteen dressing rooms, in separate departments for the sexes. These are warmed in winter, and a hooded way leads into the water. At night the pool is brilliantly lighted by arc electric lights. Bathing suits are supplied at a moderate charge. Thousands who have tried bathing in the pool pronounce it the most delightful of baths. The exercise which it admits of while bathing is deemed especially bene- ficial to many kinds of invalids. The Vapor Caves. A remarkable feature of these springs are the vapor caves — natural openings in the rocks to which the steam from the hot springs obtains access. In one of these natural caves the company has erected a unique vapor bath house with ample dressing rooms, a number of private vapor rooms, shower bath room, etc., all lighted by electric lights, affording vapor baths in either cave or private rooms at a temperature of 105 to 110° Fahrenheit. These baths are not only a luxury to those who are well, but are especially recommended by physicians for a number of serious ailments. Aspen Branch. Extending from Glenwood Springs in a southerly direction is the branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to Aspen, and its wonderful mines. The following points are on this line. Carbondale. Situated at the confluence of Rock Creek and Roaring Fork, twelve miles south of Glenwood Springs. This is the proposed point for coking ovens and blast furnace to be erected by the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 379 miles. Ele- vation, 6,181 feet.) The Elk Mountain Railway, starting at Carbondale, where it connects with the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, runs up the valley of Rock Creek, in a southerly direction, for about twenty-two miles, and then in nearly an easterly line to Robinson's Lake, thirty miles from Carbondale. The line will be constructed from Robinson's Lake to the mines in the vicinity of Crystal, in the near future, making a distance of thirty-five miles from Carbondale. Avalanche Creek. Twelve miles from Carbondale. This will be 54 OVER THE RANGE the shipping point for silver and iron ores located six to eight miles up Avalanche Creek. Penny's Hot Spring's. Fourteen miles south of Carbondale, on Rock Creek. These springs are said to be equal to those of Glenwood in healing and restorative power. Coal Basin, Nineteen miles from Carbondale. At this station all the coal from Coal Basin will be received. This is the largest and finest body of coking coal in Colorado, and is largely controlled by the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. Extensive coking ovens will be erected at this point. Prospect. Twenty-one. miles from Carbondale. At or near this point will be located the coal breaker and extensive plant of the Pacific Coal & Coke Company, who own the extensive anthracite coal fields of Chair Mountain. This company is preparing to ship five hundred tons of anthracite coal per day. This coal is said to be equal to the best red ash coal of Pennsylvania. Robinson's Lake. Thirty miles from Carbondale. At this point are located the finest marble and slate quarries west of the Missouri River. Yule Creek joins Rock Creek here, and all the valuable silver ores of that district will be loaded here. Crystal. This is an old mining camp and is thirty-five miles south- east from Carbondale, on the head waters of Rock Creek. In the vicinity of this camp are located nearly one hundred and fifty patented silver mines. It is estimated that the output from this district will be one hundred tons per day. Scenic Attraction. The line passes the base of Sopris Mountain and Chair Mountain, and terminates in the great elbow of the Elk Moun- tains at Crystal. No finer scenery can be found in the West. In a ride of two hours the tourist can be transported from the beautiful valley of Roar- ing Fork nearly to the summit of the Elk Mountain Range, and car view nearly all the prominent peaks from Mount Massive west. Returning to Carbondale, the stations on the main line to Aspen are as follows: Emma, Snow Mass and Woody Creek. Aspen, the county seat of Pitkin County, is located in one of the most noted mining regions of Colorado, seventy-five miles northwest from Buena Vista, and is the terminus of the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The valleys of the Roaring Fork River and its confluents, Castle, Hunter's and Maroon Creeks, are especially fitted for agriculture, and the hills and mesas adjacent form a fine range for stock, which in addition to the mining interests will surely make Aspen one of the most prosperous cities in the State. Stores and shops of all kinds, carrying large lines of goods, are abundant, and the business done here would do credit to a town boasting five times its present population. The good faith of the people is manifested by the character of the buildings they have erected. It is a town of beautiful homes, and has most excellent society. All the principal religious denominations have suitable houses of worship, and the public schools are of an excellent order. The hotels are good, there is a fine ASPEN. Great Mining Town. Health and Pleasure Resort. Population, 11,000. Elevation, 7,874 feet. Distance from Denver, 408 miles. TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 55 Opera house, and the town is supplied with pure water from Castle Creek. An electric light plant illuminates the principal places of business as well as the streets. The climate is delicious and especially beneficial in all pulmonary complaints. Aspen is a garden town, and displays many beau- tiful lawns, sprinkled and beautified by flowers. The main industry of Pitkin County, of which Aspen is the county seat, is mining. The town is situated upon the great zone or belt which passes through the country in a northeasterly and southwesterly course, and has tributary territory for from twenty to thirty miles each way. The ores are of good grade and are found in remarkably large deposits. The Great Central lead, with its spurs and lateral feeders, resembles a river with many branches. Silver and lead are the principal min- eral products, although gold has been found and profitably worked at In- dependence, in the east- ern part of the county, and the Iron ores at Cooper's Camp, in the southwestern part, are found in immense de- posits, and are of the very finest quality. Build- ing stone is found, and the rock is unsurpassed in texture or color, and the surrounding hills will be great producers for outside markets. Some coal is found in Pitkin County, but not in extensive measures as in Garfield, the great coal county of the United States, which adjoins up- on the north. There is no territory of similar area with richer or more varied products than Pit- kin County. The scenery around this thriving city is wonderfully varied and beautiful. Situated in the heart of the mountains, and surrounded by the most wonderful works of nature. Aspen will always bean attractive place to MARBLE CANON. thc tOUrist a,ul the l0Ver 56 OVER THE RANGE of the grand and marvelous. Hunting and fishing are found here in their perfection. Nature seems to have made Aspen her favorite child, and has poured out at her feet all the rich gifts of her cornucopia. (Population, 11,000. Distance from Denver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7,874 feet.) Returning to Glenwood Springs, we cross to the western bank of the river, and resume our journey towards the Occident, down the beautiful valley of the Grand. New Castle. Here are located extensive coal mines and coking ovens of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. (Distance from Denver, 379 miles. Population, 1,500. Elevation, 5,560 feet.) Rifle. The debarking point for Meeker and other points reached by stage lines. Excellent hunting and fishing grounds surround Rifle in all directions. Elk, deer, bear, trout and all kinds of game are in abundance. (Distance from Denver, 393 miles. Population, 200. Elevation, 5,500 feet.) The Grand Valley is noted for its agricultural resources, being one of the most prolific producing portions of the state. All manner of grains are raised in great abundance, and the fruits, especially peaches, grown in this valley are unsurpassed. The principal railroad points are Parachute and DeBeque. In the Valley of the Grand River, and sur- Grand Junction. Chief City of Grand River Valley, at Junction of Grand and Gunnison Rivers. Population, 4,000. Distance from Denver, 456 miles, via Standard Gauge Line; 425 miles via Narrow Gauge Line. Elevation, 4,594 feet. Eating Station. rounded by a fertile and well watered country, Grand Junction is the leading city of western Colorado. An extensive system of irrigating ditches has been established, and all the land under these ditches taken up, and most of it cultivated. The comparatively low altitude of this valley (it being the lowest among the Rocky Mountains with but one exception in Utah) makes it especially adapted to the cultivation of fruit. Peaches, grapes, apricots, pears and small fruits flourish here in great luxuriance, and most of the farmers have planted orchards and vineyards of greater or less extent. The usual farm products thrive in the valley, and large crops can be counted on with the greatest confidence. Grand Junction is the county seat of Mesa County, and has business and public buildings of a substantial character. Shade trees have been planted on each side of the streets, giving the town a most pleasing and attractive appearance. There is one thing sure about the Grand River Valley, and that is, it will never want for water; and with plenty of water for irrigation secured, the future prosperity of the valley and the consequent growth of Grand Junction are both assured. Back in the hills great herds are pastured, and extensive coal mines and large natural gas wells add to the many resources of this thriving city. Grand Junction is well named, for here is the converging point of the standard and narrow-gauge lines of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad with the Rio Grande Western line for Ogden, Salt Lake and the Pacific Coast, as well as the confluence of the two largest rivers in Colorado, the Gunnison and the Grand. Fruita is the next station to the west, and while the town does not appear to amount to a great deal, yet the experiment which is being carried TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 57 GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO. on here is of interest to all. The experiment to which reference has been made is that of fruit culture, the effort being to prove this valley as well fitted for this purpose as Utah. So far the experiments have been success- ful. (Population, ioo. Distance from Denver, 436 miles. Elevation, 4,523 feet.) The Colorado Desert. For a stretch of about two hundred and fifty miles beyond Fruita no agricultural country will be seen — over one hundred miles of this, in fact, is known as the "Colorado Desert." But well informed people assert that all this desert needs to be made fertile is irrigation. Water can be got on this land from the Grand River, and per- haps before another decade has passed away the "Colorado Desert" will 5S OVER THE RANGE be ranked with that geographical myth of twenty years ago, "The Great American Desert-" The Book Cliffs. The intervening space of one hundred miles between the Grand River and the Green would be monotonous were it not for the glimpses one obtains, to the left, of the snow-crowned San Rafael CASTLE GATE. and Sierra La Sal Mountains, and the constant presence, to the right, of the multiform and varicolored Book Cliffs. These Cliffs are the northern shore of what in former ages must have been a great inland sea, across whose basin the railroad runs. They vary in altitude from seven thousand to nine thousand feet and divide the waters of the Grand River from those of the White, extending two hundred miles from east to west. There are no stations of any importance between Grand Junction and Green River, the train pausing in transit only for water. Green River. This is an eating station, on the west bank of the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 59 Green River, and on alighting from the cars the traveler is astonished at the elegance of the hotel and the beauty of its surroundings, situated, as it is, away out on the edge of the desert. A handsome lawn of shaven grass surrounds the hotel, ornamented with trees, shrubs and flowers. All the mod- ern conveniences are to be found within, even to the latest style of electric light, and one of the best meals to be found on the entire journey is here set before the traveler. The hotel buildings are owned by the railroad com- pany, and no pains have been spared to make everything first class. Green River is a shipping point of considerable importance for stock. From Green River a stage line runs to the new gold discoveries in the Henry Mountains to the south. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 531 miles. Elevation, 4,069 feet.) Grand Canon of the Colorado. From the bridge across Green River the traveler, can, if the day is clear, catch a glimpse of the rugged walls of the Grand Canon of the Colorado, scarcely fifty miles to the southward. Climbing' the Wasatch Range. From Green River to Soldier Summit, a distance of ninety-nine miles, the grade is a constant ascent, the scenery growing wilder and more varied as the advance is made. The road extends to the northward, and, after passing Sphinx, Desert Switch and Cliff Siding, unimportant side tracks, reaches Lower Crossing, twenty- five miles from Green River. Lower Crossing is situated on Price River in the midst of interest- ing scenery. Stock raising is tributary to the town. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 556 miles. Elevation, 4,630 feet.) Price. Situated on the south fork of the Price River, the town has a very fertile valley, though of limited extent, surrounding it. What arable land there is has been carefully utilized, and large crops of potatoes, alfalfa, oats and vegetables are raised here, through the aid of irrigation. There are mines of asphaltum to the northward, which are worked extensively, and the product shipped to the east. Price is also an important shipping point for cattle and sheep. The scenery here is very attractive, and the hunting and fishing are excellent. (Population, 100. Distance from Den- ver, 595 miles. Elevation, 5,547 feet.) Fort Du Chesne. Eighty miles to the northward from Price, on the Uintah and Uncompahgre Indian reservation, is Fort Du Chesne, the Government post, supplies for which are forwarded from Price. Fort Du Chesne, has four companies of infantry and two of cavalry, numbering in all three hundred men. There are 4,000,000 acres in the reservation, all of which are at the service of only 2,500 Indians. Helper. End of the railroad divisions and dining station. (Popula- tion, 500. Elevation, 6,000 feet.) Eleven miles beyond Price station the I train enters the famous portals of Castle Gate, which stand at the entrance of the Price River Canon. Castle Gate is similar in many re- spects to the gateway in the Garden of Gods. The two huge pillars, or ledges of rock com- posing it, are offshoots of the cliffs behind. They are of different heights, one measuring five hundred, and the other four hundred and CASTLE GATE. Entrance to Price River Canon. Height, 500 feet. 60 OVER THE RANGE fifty feet, from top to base. They are richly dyed with red, and the firs and pines growing about them, but reaching only to their lower strata, render this coloring more noticeable and beautiful. Between the two sharp pro- montories, which are separated only by ;i narrow space, the river and the railway both run, one pressing closely against the other. The stream leaps over a rocky bed, and its banks are lined with tangled brush. Once past the gate, and looking back, the bold headlands forming it have a new and more attractive beauty. They are higher and more massive, it seems, than when we were in their shadow. No other pinnacles approach them in size or majesty. They are landmarks up and down the canon, their lofty tops catch- ing the eye before their bases are discovered. It was down Price River Canon, and past Castle Gate, that Albert Sidney Johnston marched his army home from Utah. For miles now, and until the mountains are crossed, the route chosen by the General is closely followed. The gateway is hardly lost to view by a turn in the canon before we were scaling the wooded heights. The river is never lost sight of. The cliffs which hem us in are filled with curious forms. Now there is seen a mighty castle, with moats and towers, loopholes and wall; now a gigantic head appears. At times side canons, smaller than the one we are in, lead to verdant heights beyond, where game of every variety abounds. Kyune. Large stone quarries are worked here. (Distance from Denver, 614 miles.) Pleasant Valley Junction. This little town is situated in the midst of rich and extensive coal measures. A branch road runs to the coal mines a distance of about twenty miles to the southward. The coal is valuable for coking, and is used in the various smelters of the territory. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 620 miles. Elevation, 7,177 feet.) Coal Branch. From Pleasant Valley Junction the Coal Branch extends to Mud Creek, a distance of 20 miles. The intervening stations are Hale, Schofield and Coal Mine. The chief business of the road is the transportation of coal, which is mined extensively here. Soldier Summit. Here we are on the highest railroad point on the Wasatch Range. Good pasturage covers the mountain tops, and great herds of cattle, horses and sheep graze here among the sage brush. The scenery here is wild and picturesque, and the view is wide, embracing a great sweep of serrated mountain summits. (Population, nominal. Dis- tance from Denver, 627 miles. Elevation, 7,465 feet.) From this point the descent is made to the Utah Valley. Red Narrows. Here the cliffs rise on each side of the track, assuming fantastic forms, and glowing with varied colors, among which red is predominant ; hence, the name. Thistle Junction. This is the junction point of the main line and the San Pete Valley branch extending to Salina. (Population, 500. Elevation, 5,043 feet. Distance from Denver, 652 miles.) The San Pete Valley Branch of the Rio Grande Western starts toward the vast mines and quarries, grain fields and fruit gardens that lie toward the south from Thistle. Glance lor a moment down this branch line. Two miles from Thistle is Asphaltum station, where there is a bed of nearly pure asphaltum, covering a scpiare mile, and from eight to fourteen feet thick. Six miles further, and at Nebo a view is caught of Mount Nebo, one TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 61 of the tallest and grandest peaks in Utah, snow-capped all the year. About a mile below Nebo the road enters the Indian Reservation, and six miles onward is Indianola, around which cluster the adobe houses and tepees of a branch of the great Ute tribe, whence Utah has its name. They do a little farming and stock-raising, and a good deal of hunting and fishing, and, all things considered, are generally doing well. Whirling on through twenty miles of pastures and farms, past Hilltop and Milburn, at Fairview a glor- ious view of the San Pete Valley,. "the granary of Utah," bursts upon the enchanted eye. The whole country for fifty miles is a mingling of field and garden. Only two miles more, and the train sweeps into Mount Pleasant, nestled in peach and apricot, apple, pear and plum trees, all bowed down with their loads of fruit. The town stands at the foot of the mountain on a commanding site. It has about 3,000 population, a flouring-mill and planing mill, and is the seat of Wasatch Academy, a Presbyterian school of some repute. Five miles in twelve minutes, and Spring City is passed, with great masses of snow-crowned mountains east and southeast of it, and, in ten miles more, Ephraim's bowers of fruit and shade are entered. In a population of 2,200, there are 800 school children, besides all those too young for schooling. A new depot, new hotel and many other new build- ings tell the story of prosperity. A dash of six miles onward, and Manti is reached, with 2,300 people, and hardly a poor man among them. Here, at the top of four lofty terraces hewn from the mountain side, stands the magnificent Mormon temple, which has cost $2,500,000, and is only second to the one in Salt Lake City. It is nearly two hundred feet long, one hundred wide and one hundred high, with massive towers at each end rising one hundred and seventy-five feet in the air. It is built of snow-white oolite, quarried out of the site on which it stands, and the whole workmanship is exquisite. It can be plainly seen for forty miles up and down the valley. A hot spring, on the edge of the town, pours out a hundred cubic feet a minute of water gifted with remarkable medicinal qualities. Just below Manti are the strange "Saleratus Beds," where for two miles or more the road runs through vast deposits of soda pure enough for cooking purposes. The train rushes on through a continuous succession of grain fields and orchards. Sterling, Gunnison and Willow Creek are passed, the Sevier Valley is entered, and the locomotive screams its greeting to Salina, the present terminus of the branch. Just back of the town are mountains of rock salt, much of it as clear as crystal, and absolutely pure. Millions on millions of tons of it can be blasted out as cheap as dirt. About a mile south of these mountainous monuments to the memory of Lot's wife is a mountain of almost pure gypsum, and there is a kaolin enough to furnish all the potteries and candy-makers of the world. The whole region abounds with game and fish. Returning again to the main line we find that the Spanish Fork Canon is charmingly picturesque, and a spot which would delight the artist. It is characterized by fresh foliage, soft contours, charming contrasts, and sparkling waters. Emerging from the canon the traveler realizes that one sta^e of his mountain journey has been achieved, and before him lies one of the most fertile valleys in the world. Utah Valley. This favored spot presents the appearance of a well- 62 OVER THE RANGE. cultivated park. It has an Arcadian beauty, and resembles the vales of Scotland. In the centre rests Utah Lake, where "... the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue." A little back from the lake stand the towns of Provo and Springville, shaded by the near peaks of the range. Utah Valley possesses a fertile soil, a delightful climate, and is one of the best farming sections of Utah: Fruit trees and grape vines grow as readily as hay and cereals. Eastward the oblong-shaped basin is shut in by the Wasatch Mountains; and on the west in the Oquirrh Range. Northward are low hills, or mesas, crossing the valley and separating it from that of the Great Salt Lake; while in the south, the east and west ranges approach each other and form blue-tinted walls of uneven shape. To the left of this barrier Mount Nebo, highest and grandest of the Utah peaks, rises majestically above all surroundings. Its summit sparkles with snow, its lower slopes are wooded and soft, while from it, and extending north and south, run vast, broken,, vari-colored con- freres. The valley is like a well-kept garden ; farm joins farm ; crystal streams water it; and scattered about in rich profusion are long lines of fruit trees, amid which are trim, white houses. All these evidences of prosperity testify to the virtues of industry, frugality and perseverance, which no one can deny are possessed by the Mormon farmers. Spanish Fork. This is the first town in Utah Valley that the west- bound tourist enters. It is situated on the Spanish Fork River, and is a most pleasant rural village. Fruit and shade trees abound. Agricultural, horticultural, and pastoral industries are pursued by the inhabitants. Vine- yards nourish, wine is made, dairy products are a specialty, and the cereals and all kinds of vegetables are cultivated. (Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 664 miles. Elevation, 4,721 feet.) Springville. This is another typical Mormon town. It is only four miles from Spanish Fork, and naturally possesses similar characteristics. The town derives its name from the fact that a strong hot spring pours its waters into a stream just above the town, in Hobble Canon. The water does not freeze in winter, and thus a flouring mill run by it is enabled to work the year round. (Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 667 miles. Elevation, 4,565 feet.) Tintic Branch extends southward from Springville, on through Payson and Goshen, a region rich in all agricultural productions. West of Goshen, the branch line enters Pinon Canon, and runs for ten miles through as wild and rugged scenes as can be found in all this region of scenic wonders. The track through the canon is a dizzy puzzle in engineering. It winds and climbs, twists, turns and wriggles, and at last absolutely crosses itself backward and forward, tying itself into a loop like a double bow-knot. There are but two similar track tangles in the United States, one in California and the other in Colorado. Out of this canon labyrinth, the line emerges at Silver City in the far-famed Tintic mining-camp; and just on beyond that, will doubtless ere long rush its iron-horse into the newly discovered Deep Creek bonanza region, whose richness is now attract- ing wide-spread attention. 64 OVER THE RANGE This pretty little city belongs to the best type of Mormon towns, and a description of it will serve to give the reader a good idea of the characteristics of all the towns built by the Mor- mons. The dwellings, as a rule, are comfortable, but not imposing in appearance. Many of them are constructed of adobe or sun-dried bricks, and all are situated in lots of generous proportions and surrounded by ornamental and fruit trees. Water for irrigating purposes flows down each side of the streets, and shade trees in abundance and of luxuriant growth render the walks cool and inviting. Gardens filled with fruits, flowers and vegetables are the rule, and a quiet, peaceful, industrious semi-rural life is the good fortune of the residents here. The town is eminently fitted for a health and pleasure PROVO. County Seat of Utah Co. Summer Resort. Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 672 miles. Elevation, 4,517 feet. SPANISH FORK. CANON. resort, and has also great advantages as a manufacturing centre. The Timpanogas River furnishes unexcelled water power, while inexhaustible supplies of artesian water are to be found at a depth of from forty to two hundred feet. The city has, in fact, the finest water supply of any in Utah Territory. Provo has a fine public school system and is the seat of the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 65 Brigham Young Academy, which was amply endowed by the first President of the Mormon Church, from whom the school takes its name. Its churches and public buildings, including an opera house, are a credit to its people, who are of a literary tasfe and inclined to liberality of thought. Utah Lake, a fine body of fresh water, lies to the southwest, and to the north and east are the Wasatch Mountains. Farming, horticulture and the raising of cattle and sheep are tributary industries, while in the town are large saw mills, flouring mills and woolen mills, the most extensive in Utah. Utah Lake. Mention has already been made of this beautiful body of water, but the statistical traveler may want to know something more TRAMWAY IN LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON. definite about its dimensions. The lake is thirty miles lung, six miles wide, and is fed by the American Fork, Spanish Fork and Provo Rivers, and Salt, Peteetweet and Hobble Creeks. Its outlet is the Jordan River which, flowing northward, empties into Great Salt Lake. There are plenty of fish in Utah Lake, chiefly trout and mullet. American Fork. On the western extremity of Utah Lake, is American Fork, a thriving town beautifully situated and embowered in trees. Agricultural and pastoral industries are tributary to its prosperity. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 685 miles, Elevation, 4,567 feet.) 66 OVER THE RANGE. Lehi. Three miles from American Fork is Lehi, another thriving town also on Utah Lake. Fruit and shade trees abound and make the town a place of sylvan beauty. The same industries thrive here as in the sister town mentioned above. (Population, 3,000. Distance from Denver, 688 miles. Elevation, 4,544 feet.) Bingham Junction. This station is at the junction of the Bing- ham and Alta branches of the road, and, therefore, is quite a bustling place in the way of railroad business, though it has but a nominal population. (Distance from Denver, 706 miles. Elevation, 4,366 feet.) I H ng ha 111 Branch. This branch extends southwest to Bingham, a distance of sixteen miles. The intervening stations are Revere, Lead Mine and Terra Cotta. Bingham. The town may almost be classed as a suburb of Salt Lake City, as it is less than an hour's ride from the capital of Utah Territory. The main industry of the surrounding population is mining. (Population, goo. Distance from Denver, 724 miles. Elevation, 4,375 feet.) Alta Branch. This branch extends to the northward from Bing- ham Junction to Alta, a distance of thirty-five miles. The intermediate stations are Sandy and Wasatch. The line passes through the Little Cottonwood Canon en route. Alta. This is a mining town known all round the world. The place is not only entertaining in itself, but in its neighborhood are a large number of easily accessible gorges, lakes and hilltops full of artistic material and of trout fishing ; or, if the tourist goes late in the season, of good shooting and ample opportunity for dangerous adventures in mountaineering. The Little Cottonwood canon is one of those great crevices between the peaks of the Wasatch Range, plainly visible from Salt Lake City, and dis- tinguished by its white walls, which, when wet with the morning dews, gleam like monstrous mirrors as the sunlight reaches them from over the top of the range. The River Jordan. After the valley of Utah Lake has been left behind, en route to Salt Lake City, on the left of the track is seen a small river of yellow water meandering through the sage brush and volcanic scoria. The river is the Jordan, so called because it connects the Utah with the Great Salt Lake, as its namesake does Galilee and the Dead Sea. In July, 1847, Brigham Young stood on En- SALT LAKE CITY. Capital of Utah Territory. Population, 50,000. Elevation, 4,228 feet. Distance from Denver, 716 miles. sign Peak, the " Mount of Prophesy," and an- nounced to his followers that down in the valley below should be founded the new "City of Zion," the future home of the Latter Day Saints. Up to 1871 the original settlers virtually lived apart from the rest of the world. This was owing to the religious views of the Mormons, which made them a peculiar and isolated peo- ple. To mining is due the first incursion of Gentile population, which population has steadily increased, until at present the community of Salt Lake City differs but little from any other in its social, business or religious aspect, except that it possesses, in addition to the accepted religious associations which exist elsewhere, one which differs from all others. The city is situated at the base of the Wasatch Mountains, Kffr "i r " 68 OVER THE RANGE. which are a part of the great Continental Range dividing the Far West from the plains which extend from the base of the Rockies to the Missouri River. The finest residence portion of the city occupies the mountain bench, once the shore of a great inland sea, from which, ages ago, the waters receded until they settled in the basin of the Great Salt Lake, distant eighteen miles from the water marks yet plainly to be seen above the city. The location is such as to command a view of the entire valley, both ranges of mountains, and the southern portion of the lake. The streets are one hundred and thirty-two feet wide and bordered on each side with long rows of shade trees. Streams of pure water are conducted in ditches along both sides of all the streets. The busi- ness sections are well built, and the business streets are paved. One of the largest business enterprises of the city is the Cooperative Establishment. For convenience it is universally called the "Co-op."; its title in full is the " Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution." It has a central building for headquarters and branches throughout the city and Territory. Whenever one sees a building with the mystic initials "Z. C. M. I." on its sign, one may know it is a branch of the great "Co-op." The headquarters of this institution are of brick, three hundred and eighteeen by fifty-three feet in size, three stories high, and built over a large cellar. This building is crowded with merchandise of every description, and does an extensive wholesale and retail business. "Temple Square" is a great attraction for the tourist. Here are situated the Mormon Temple, Tabernacle and Assembly Hall. The Tabernacle is immense in its proportions, the roof resembling an upturned boat, and is visible from nearly every part of the city. The Temple is, with the single exception of St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York, the grandest and costliest ecclesiastical structure in this country. It was begun in 1853, completed in 1893 and cost nearly $6,000,000. It is two hundred feet long, a hundred feet wide, and a hundred feet high, with four towers, one at each corner, two hundred and twenty feet in height. The walls are ten feet thick, and the massiveness and solidity of its con- struction insure its defiance of the ravages of time for ages to come. It is built wholly of snow-white granite from the Cottonwood Canon; and, standing on one of the loftiest points in the city, can be seen for fifty miles up and down the valley. Near by is the Bee Hive, once the home of Brigham Young and opposite the house of President Taylor. The Hot Springs of Salt Lake are highly medicinal, and the large baths are resorted to for many ailments. Within a short radius of the city the attractions are varied and numerous. Fort Douglas, the Lake, Emigration City, Bingham, Little and Big Cottonwood Canons are easily reached. From Ensign Peak a panoramic view of the surrounding country is had. One may look from it down the greater part of Utah's length, while near at hand lie the city and lake. The Fort is also a popular resort, and not only commands an extensive view, but affords excellent opportunities of study- ing garrison life. The rides, drives and rambles are innumerable. Every taste is catered to. For those who love grandeur, there are the mountains, with their narrow trails, secluded parks, wild canons and deep gorges ; for those preferring gentler aspects, the valley, glowing with freshness, affords continual pleasure ; for those craving the mysterious, there is the lake, large, silent and strange. The hotels are excellent, the climate unexcelled, and Great Salt Lake. Area, 2,500 square miles. Mean Depth, 20 feet. Specific Gravity, 1. 107. Length, 126 m iles. Breadth, 45 m iles. 70 OVER THE RANGE. days may be passed delightfully in exploring and in studying the wealth of attractions. There are theatres, reading rooms, good horses, perfect order and universal cleanliness. Many of the private houses are palatial, and altogether the city is one of rare beauty and interest. As far as can be learned, the first mention in history of the Great Salt Lake was by the Baron La Houtan, in 1689, who gathered from the Western Indians some vague notions of its existence. Capt. Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833 to make its circuit, but they seem to have given up the enterprise on reach- ing the desert on the northwest, on which they lost their way, and after weeks of aimless wandering found themselves in Lower California. To General John C. Fremont must be given the credit of first navigating its waters. In 1842, on his way to Oregon, General Fremont pushed out from the mouth of Webber River, in a rubber boat, for the nearest island. He found it to be a desolate rock, fourteen miles in circumference and named it Disappointment Island. Captain Stansbury, on a subsequent visit, re-named it Fremont's Island, which name is retained. In 1850 Captain Stansbury spent three months in making a detailed survey of the Lake, its shores and islands. In brief, he found the west shore a salt-encrusted desert; the north shore composed of wide salt marshes, overflowed under steady winds from the south; the east shore possessed good, irrigable lands; the south shore was set with moun- tain ranges standing endways towards the lake, with the grassy valleys, Spring, Toelle and Jordan, intervening. The principal islands are Ante- lope and Stansbury, rocky ridges ranging north and south, rising abruptly from the water to a height of three thousand feet. Antelope is the nearest to Salt Lake City, and is sixteen miles long. Stansbury is twenty miles to the westward and is twelve miles in length. Both have springs of fresh water and good range for the stock, with which they are now covered. ( )f minor islands there are Fremont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud, Egg and Hat, besides several small insular promontories without names. The first white man's boat to navigate the lake was probably that of Fre- mont ; Captain Stansbury came next with his exploring boat curiously named the "Salicornia" ; next in order were the Walker brothers, mer- chants of Salt Lake City, who sailed for some years a lonesome pleasure yacht. There is now a considerable yachting fleet, which is yearly growing in size. The lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles. Its mean depth does not probably exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place between Antelope and Stansbury is 60 feet. These two principal islands used to be accessible from the shore by wagon, but now boats must be used. From 1847 to 1856 the lake gradually filled five or six feet, and then slowly sub- sided to its old level. In 1863 it began to fill again, and in four or five years reached a point considerably higher than its present level, perhaps four or five feet. In the year 1875 a pillar was set up at Black Rock, by which to measure the rise and fall, resembling a tide, but having no ascertained time. It is very slight compared what it formerly was. Professor Gilbert of the Geological Survey, says that twice within recent geological time it has risen 72 OVER THE RANGE nearly a thousand feet higher than its present stage, and, of course, covered vastly more ground. He calls that lake after Captain Bonneville, the origi- nal explorer of these regions, and whom Irving has immortalized, Lake Bonneville. Causes which learned men assign as producing what they call a glacial period might easily fill the lake until it extended nearly the whole length of Utah. During the last high stage, Professor Gilbert says there were active volcanoes in it. It is generally agreed that its first outbreak was via Marsh Creek, and the Portneuf into the Snake. At the present height of that channel (where the Utah and Northern passes out of Cache Valley) it remained a long time stationary and then seems to have receded rapidly to a second stationary point, and so on down to its present stage. There is one very heavy beach-mark on all the hills surrounding its extended area and on the hills, which were then islands, and a curious thing is the fact that this beach-mark varies in altitude from one hundred to three hundred feet, showing that the earth in this valley is still far from having reached a stable equilibrium. The most mysterious thing about this inland sea, aside from its salti- ness, is the fact that it has no known outlet. A great number of fresh water streams pour into the lake from all sides, yet the water remains salt and the lake does not overflow. The saline or solid matter held in solution by the water varies as the lake rises and subsides. In 1842 Fremont obtained "fourteen pints of very white salt" from five gallons of the water evaporated over a camp fire. The salt was also very pure, assaying 97.80 fine. In 1850 Dr. L. D. Gale analyzed a sample of it which yielded 20 per cent, of pure common salt, and about 2 per cent, of foreign salts, chlorides of lime and magnesia. Sergeant Smart, U. S. A., analyzed a sample in 1877, and found an imperial gallon to contain nearly 2\ l / 2 ounces of saline matter, amounting to fourteen per cent., as follows : Common salt 1 1-735 Lime carbonate .016 Lime sulphate .073 Epsom salt 1-123 Chloride of magnesia .843 Percentage of solids. — 13-79° Water 86.210 One hundred grains of the dry solid matter contained : Common salt 85.089 Lime carbonate .117 Lime sulphate -53 1 Epsom salt 8.145 Chloride of magnesia 6.1 18 It compares with other saline waters about as follows : Atlantic Ocean-. Mediterranean -- Dead Sea Great Salt Lake- Water. 96.5 96.2 76. 86.2 Solid. - 3-5 - 3-8 .. 24. - 13-8 And in specific gravity, distilled water being unity : Ocean water 1.026 Dead Sea 1.116 Great Salt Lake 1.107 The solid matter in the water varies between spring and fall, between dry and wet seasons, and also between different parts of the lake, for nearly all the fresh water is received from the Wasatch on the east. It is the opinion of salt makers that an average of the lake at its present stage would show the presence of 17 per cent, of solid matter. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 73 Salt Lake has become a fashionable bathing resort. In the long sunn} days of June, July, August and September, the water becomes deliciously warm, much warmer in fact than the ocean, and this pleasant temperature is reached a month earlier and remains a month later. The water is so dense that one is sustained without effort, and vigorous constitutions experience no inconvenience from remaining in it a long time. A more delightful and healthy exercise than buffeting its waves when it is a little rough can hardly be imagined. There is a magnificent bathing resort on the Lake, near Salt Lake City. BEE HIVE HOUSE. Saltair. The Rio Grande Western Railroad has opened a new bathing resort at Saltair, on the Great Salt Lake, about eighteen miles from the city. During the season bathing trains are run almost hourly from Salt Lake City to Saltair. These trains enable all overland passengers stopping off at Salt Lake City to have a bath in the great dead sea. Here is located the finest bathing pavillion on the continent, each of the elegant bath-rooms is fitted with shower-bath, stationary water-bowls, mirrors, chairs, incan- descent electric lights, etc., making Saltair one of the most attractive water- ing places on the continent. There is a first-class restaurant ; careful male and female attendants and a silver-cornet band furnishes music day and evening. Prof. John Aluir, the celebrated scientist and litterateur, speaks as follows concerning a bath in the Great Salt Lake : "Since the completion of the trans-continental railways this magnifi- cent lake in the heart of the continent has become as accessible as any water- ing-place on either coast, and I am sure that thousands of travelers, sick 74 OVER THE RANGE. and well, would throng to its shores every summer were its merits but half known. Saltair is only a few minute's ride from the city and has good hotel accommodations and then besides the bracing waters, the climate is delightful. The mountains rise into a cool sky, furrowed with canons almost Yosemitic in grandeur and filled with a glorious profusion of flowers and trees. Lovers of science, lovers of wilderness, lovers of pure rest will find here more than they ever may hope for." Salt Lake to Ogden. From Salt Lake to Ogden the Rio Grande Western Railroad traverses a narrow plain. On the west lies the Great Salt Lake, while to the north rise the serrated peaks of the Wasatch Moun- tains. This region is under a high state of cultivation. Farms reach their golden or green fields over its length and breadth, and little streams run in bright threads out of the mountain canons down across the meadows. The lake is in full view of the traveler most of the way, and is a never-ending source of interest. The train speeds on, and entering an amphitheatre, set around with mountains, reaches Ogden, the western terminus of the Denver & Rio Grande and Union Pacific Railroads. (Population, 32,000. Distance from Denver, 753 miles. Elevation, 4,286 feet.) QUEEN'S CANON. GRAND CANON, FROM TO-RO-WASP. SALIDA TO GRAND JUNCTION VIA MARSHALL PASS. T Salida the tourist, holding tickets over the line of railroad, with which this book treats, may have the choice of two routes to Grand Junction. Either the standard gauge line via Leadville and Glenwood Springs, as described in the fore- going pages, or the narrow gauge line via Marshall Pass, Gunnison and Montrose. At Grand Junction these two lines unite and continue on to Salt Lake. The points of interest enroute are as follows: Poncha. This little town, five miles west of Salida, is the station for Poncha Hot Springs and the Junction of the Monarch Branch with the main line. It is really a suburb of Salida, and is connected with that town by a beautiful boulevard, which is one of the pleasantest of drives. Monarch Branch. From Poncha this branch runs in a rich mining country, its terminus is Monarch, a prosperous mining town, 237 miles from Denver and 1 1 miles from Poncha. The intermediate stations on the line are Maysville and Garfield. Mining is the chief industry. As a resort for invalids, Poncha Hot Springs offers superior inducements, especially to those suffering from chronic troubles. The sick get well here in less time and with less medicine than in any other sanitarium outside of Colo- rado. The return to health here is made radi- cally permanent. A great variety of diseases are cured by the peculiar earth-heated and earth-medicated waters and an intelligent sys- tem of baths. The effect on the sick is wonder- fully beneficial, corollatinga specific energy with the climate and pure atmosphere, and the very feeble are enabled to tolerate much hotter baths than in damper or lower altitudes, and secure correspondingly greater results. The analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs corresponds almost exactly with the waters of the Hot Springs in Arkansas. The temperature of the various Arkansas Hot Springs varies from go to 175°, that of the Poncha Springs varies from 90 to 185 ° Fahrenheit. The water is as clear as crystal and perfectly odorless and tasteless. It quenches thirst whether cold or hot, and does not disturb the stomach in any manner. There are one hundred 'of these Hot Springs, all flowing from a great field of tufa, the natural precipitation of ages, loss of temperature from contact with the atmosphere and chemically the same as the tufa of the Arkansas Hot Springs. The springs have a capacity large enough to bathe 40,000 persons daily. The following is an analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs : 76 Poncha Springs, Mot Springs, Watering Place, and Health Resort. Distance from Denver, 221 niles. Elevation, 7,480 feet. 78 OVER THE RANGE. Silicic Acid 32.73 Sesqui-oxide of Iron 1.27 Alumina 5.20 Lime 20.00 Magnesia .74 Cholorine .06 Carbonic Acid Gas 22.50 Organic Matter 6.24 Water 1.72 .Sulphuric Acid 4.46 Potash 2.08 Soda 1. 00 Iodine 1.50 Bromine 1.50 The waters are said to be a sure cure for rheumatism and all blood and skin diseases, and catarrhal affections. Poncha Pass. After leaving Poncha Station the railroad begins to climb the mountains, and makes its entry into Marshall Pass by way or Poncha Pass. As the train makes a long curve around the side of a great hill, about two miles above the town of Poncha, the tourist can see the Hot Springs on the side of the opposite hill to the left, a deep gorge intervening, at the bottom of which flows a clear mountain stream. The scenery here is wild and beautiful, and the interest increases with each mile of the ascent. Mears JunctioD. This little station, 227 miles from Denver, in the heart of the hills, is the junction of the San Luis Valley branch with the main line, and from this point the real ascent of Marshall Pass begins. San Luis Valley Branch. This branch of the Denver & Rio Grande extends from Mears Junction to Alamosa where it connects with the line coming over Veta Pass, to Silverton and to Creede, as described elsewhere in this volume. Enroute the first station of importance is Villa Grove, This town is situated at the northern extremity of the great San Luis Valley, and is surrounded by a rich agricultural country. There are many good mines of gold, silver and coal in the near vicinity. Eight miles from Villa Grove on the Orient Branch, is located the famous Orient Iron mine, from which is annually produced about 60,000 tons of a fine quality of iron ore. This ore is smelted and formed into all kinds of commercial iron and steel at the works of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Com- pany located at Bessemer, near Pueblo. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 247 miles. Elevation, 7,971 feet.) Hot Springs. Five miles beyond Villa Grove is situated a group of hot springs of great medicinal value. There are so many of these springs in Colorado that all of them have never been fully developed, and this par- ticular group of springs has not been given the attention they really deserve. For a distance of fifty-two miles this branch extends through the grand San Luis valley in an absolutely straight line with a gradual descent towards the south. Moffat, Garrison and Mosca are the principal stations enroute and are all towns of considerable importance as entrepots for this wonderful agricultural valley. There are a number of small lakes in the valley, insuring water in abundant quantities for irrigating purposes and constituting a home for myriads of wild fowl. Hunters from Denver, Pueblo, Leadville, Salida and Alamosa, and in fact from all parts of the state visit this valley each season. Alamosa the end of this division will be found fully described in another part of this book. After leaving Mears Station on the main line the road advances by means of a series of curves absolutely bewildering, following the convolutions of the gulches. As the altitude grows greater, the view becomes less'obstructed by mountain sides, and the eye roams over miles of cone-shaped summits. The timberless tops of towering ranges show him that he is among the heights OVER THE RANGE. and in a region familiar with the clouds. Then he beholds, stretching away to the left, the most perfect of all the Sierras. The sunlight falls with a white, transfiguring radiance upon the snow-crowned spires of the Sangre de Cristo Range. Their sharp and dazzling pyramids, which near at hand are clearly defined, extend to the southward until cloud, and sky and snowy peak commingle and form a vague and bewil- dering vision. To the right, towers the fire scarred front of old Ouray, gloomy and grand, solitary and forbidding. Ouray holds the pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the Marshall Pass. Railroading Among the Clouds. A Marvel of Engineering Skill. Elevation, 10,856 feet. CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE. fertile Gunnison. Slowly the steeps are conquered until at last the train halts at the station, upon the Summit of Marshall Pass. The awful silence of the storm-tossed granite ocean lies beneath. The traveler looks down upon four lines of road, terrace beyond terrace, the last so far below as to be quite indistinct to view. These are only loops of the almost spiral path- way of descent. Wonder at the triumphs of engineering skill is strangely mingled with the feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous gran- deur of the scene. Marshall Pass Station, fs directly on the summit of the pass, and the track is enclosed by a large snow shed. Fine views can be obtained, however, from the loop holes, from either end of the shed or from the observatory, erected above the station. The elevation, is 10,856 82 OVER THE RANGE. feet above the sea. The descent begins, and the road winds around projecting headlands, on the verge of vast precipices, threads dark recesses where patches of light fall through leafy canopies upon the green slopes, follows the windings of the Tomichi, and later courses through cultivated meadows dotted with hay-stacks and small ranch houses. As the train rolls swiftly on, a backward glance gives the traveler' a comprehensive idea of the vast heights overcome in the passage. The stations between Marshall Pass and Gunnison are as follows: Hilden, Shawano, Chester, Buxton, Sargent, Elko, Crookton, Doyle, Bonita, Parlin and Mounds. These sta- tions are all small but situated in the midst of beautiful scenery. The Waunita Hot Springs are situated eight miles from Parlin. The waters have long been famous for their great medicinal qualities, and they have been frequented by those suffering from ill health with the most surprising and gratifying results. Good accommodations have been provided for guests. The scenery surrounding the Springs is unsurpassed, and no pleasanter place can be found by the searcher after health or pleasure. Tomichi Meadows. Beyond Parlin the line crosses a wide expanse of natural meadow land, through which meanders the beautiful Tomichi Creek. Gunnison is the county seat of Gunnison County, and is situated on the Gunnison River. From its central position in the great Gunnison Valley, it must of necessity always be the dis- tributing point ; and, therefore, its growth is assured as being coincident with that of the country in which it is situated. From Gunnison extends a branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad up to Crested Butte, situated in the heart of a rich gold and silver mining country, GUNNISON. Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 290 miles. Elevation, 7,683 feet. Eating Station. and being the centre of the wonderful anthracite coal measures of the state. The town is beautifully situated and is in such close proximity to some of the most attractive scenery in the Rocky Mountains, that it has become a favorite objective point with tourists. The Gunnison River and its many confluent trout brooks offer fine sport for the fisherman, and the hills abound in game. The La Veta Hotel, the eating station for passengers, is one of the most magnificent in Colorado, having been erected at an expense of $225,000. It is elegantly furnished, and offers first class accom- modations for the tourists who may wish to spend a few days or weeks here, hunting and fishing. Crested Butte Branch. From Gunnison the Crested Butte branch of the road extends to the northwest to Crested Butte, a distance of twenty-eight miles. The line extends up the Gunnison River, which swarms with trout and is an extremely picturesque stream. The Elk Mountains are in plain view, and add grandeur to the scene. The interven- ing stations are Almont, Jack's Cabin, and ( daciers. Crested Butte. This pretty village is situated most delightfully among the mountains, one castellated peak directly opposite the town conferring the name it bears. This is the centre of the most remarkable coal region yet discovered in Colorado, and abounding also in rich mines of 84 OVER THE RANGE. gold and silver. At Crested Butte, just back of the village, is found abundant measures of exceedingly bituminous coal, which is mined largely and made into coke. Four miles north of the town anthracite coal, equal in every respect to the best found in Pennsylvania, is ta*ken from the top of a mountain, and shipped all over Colorado and Utah. The fishing and hunting in the mountain streams, and over the wooded hills, furnish abun- dant sport for the residents and tourists, and the rides and drives afford an almost infinite variety. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 318 miles. Elevation, 8,878 feet.) Anthracite. Four miles beyond Crested Butte. The present ter- minus of this branch, and as its name indicates the shipping point for the anthracite coal mined in the vicinity. Sapinero stands at the eastern entrance to the Black Canon, and is beautifully situated on the banks of the Gunnison River. The town was named after a sub-chief among the Utes, who was regarded by the whites as a man of unusual intellectual and executive ability. In addition to com- manding the entrance to the canon, Sapinero is the junctional point for the Lake City extension of the line, and from whence stages run to the new gold region of Goose Creek. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 316 miles. Elevation, 7,255 feet.) The Goose Creek Gold Mining district is located on Goose, Wild Cat, and Cebolla Creeks, and bids fair to outrival many of the older gold camps. Dubois and Spencer are the principal towns, and present indica- tions for a new Leadville or Creede are flattering to say the least. Lake City Branch. This extension is thirty-six miles in length, and has its terminus at Lake City. The line turns to the left about a mile west of Sapinero, and passes through a remarkable canon en route. Lake Fork Canon. This canon is a most attractive bit of scenery. It is noted for its narrowness, and the height and grandeur of its walls. For thirteen miles the railroad winds through this tortuous chasm, the walls rising on each hand to a height varying from eight hundred to thirteen hundred feet. The river claims the right of way but the railroad also asserts its rights, and by the exercise of engineering skill has forced a passage. In many places the solid wall of granite has been blasted away, and from the fallen blocks a solid embankment constructed, upon which the rails have been laid. The Lake Fork is a rapid and tumultuous stream, abounding in rapids and presenting a most interesting, varied and exhil- arating panorama to the eye. Emerging from the canon and gaining a greater altitude, the view is one of magnificent extent and grandeur. Northward the peaks of the Elk Range form a long line of well-separated summits. Northeastward, the vista between nearer hills is filled with the clustered heights of the Continential Divide in the neighborhood of the Mount of the Holy Cross. Just below them confused elevations show where Marshall Pass carries its lofty avenue, and to the southward of that stretches the splendid, snow trimmed array of the Sangre de Christo. The enterprising and thriving mining town of Lake City stands in a little park at the junction of the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River with Hensen Creek, both typical mountain streams. A substantial and pretty town has been established. Mines of marvelous value surround the town, and the advent of the railroad has given new life and energy to all the com- GATE OF LADORE. 86 OVER THE RANGE. LAKE CITY. Picturesque Mining .Town. Population, 1,500. Distance from Denver, 352 miles. Elevation, 8,604 feet. mercial and speculative projects of the people. The development of her mining resources has been retarded during the past by the lack of transportation facilities, but this has only caused its stores of wealth to be held in abeyance for awhile before their coinage. Many another district a few years ago thought equally profitless has risen to become the scene of steady dividend making labor through the perfection of processes. It will not be long before, by like means, the reviving of Lake City's mines will occur, and enable her to catch up with her more fortunate sisters in the wide circle of the San Juan silver region. The romantic surroundings of this pretty town, — the lovely lakes from which it takes its characteristic name, the grand moun- tains and the grassy parks — have made it a favorite for the lovers of nature in the' past, and will still attract them in the future. This is a paradise for a sportsman. Over these rolling uplands, among the aspen groves, upon the foot hills and along the willow-bordered creek deer now throng, and even an occasional elk and antelope are to be seen. In the rocky fastnesses the bear and panther find refuge, and every little park is enlivened by the flitting forms of timid hares and the whirring escape of the grouse disturbed by our passing. Beyond Gunnison, the railway traverses the valley of the same name, following the river closely, and encountering nothing but meadows and low, grayish cliffs. The Gunnison River abounds in fish, and is a great resort for the disciples of Isaac Walton. Soon, however, the channel, which the stream has worn, becomes narrower. The cliffs grow higher and steeper, the vegetation is less abundant, and suddenly the sunlight is cut off by broken summits, and directly after leaving Sapinero, where the ob- servation car is attached, the Black Canon holds us fast in its embrace. This gorge is grander, deeper, darker, and yet more beautiful than the one we have so lately penetrated. It is twice as long, has more verdure, and, although the walls are dark-hued enough to give the place its name, still they are of red standstone in many places, and from their crevices and on their tops, shrubs, cedars and pifions grow in rich abundance. The river has a deep, seagreen color, and is followed to Cimarron Creek, up which the road continues, still through rocky depths, to open country beyond. The Black Canon never tires, never becomes com- monplace. Chippeta Fall starts from a dizzy height, is dashed into frag- ments by lower terraces, and, tossed by the winds, reaches the river in fine white spray; there another cataract leaps clear of the walls, and thunders unbroken upon the ground beside us. In the cliffs are smaller streams, which trickle down and are lost in the river below. At times the canon narrows, and is full of sharp curves, but again has long wide stretches, which enable one to study the steep crags that lower heavenward two or three thousand feet. BLACK CANON OF THE GUNNISON. Height of Walls, 2,500 feet. Length of Canon, 14 miles. 88 OVER THE RANGE. Currecanti Needle, the most abrupt and isolated of these pinnacles, has all the grace and symmetry of a Cleopatra obelisk. It is red-hued from point to base, and stands like a grim sentinel, watchful of the canon's solitudes. At the junction of the Gunnison and the Cimarron a bridge spans the gorge, from which the beauties of the canon are seen at their best. Sombre shades prevail ; the stream fills the space with its heavy roar, and the sunlight falls upon the topmost pines, but never reaches down the dark red walls. Huge bowlders lie scattered about ; fitful winds sweep down the deep clefts; Nature has created everthing on a grand scale; detail is supplanted by magnificence, and the place is one appealing to our deepest feelings. It greets us as a thing of beauty, and will remain in our memory a joy forever. Long ago the Indians of this region built their coun- TROUT FISHING ON THE CIMARRON cil fires here. By secret paths, always guarded, they gained these fastnes- ses, and held their grave and somber meetings. The firelight danced across their swarthy faces to the cliffs encircling them. The red glow lit up with Rembrandt tints the massive walls, the surging streams and clinging vines. They may not have known the place had beauties, but they realized its isolation, and fearing nothing in their safe retreat, spoke boldly of their plans. Cimarron. Is a most attractive little station, nestled among the gulches on the banks of the sparkling Cimarron Creek. Here is a meal station, #nd here the observation car is detached. Sportsmen make headquarters at Cimarron, for the hills are full of game and the streams abound in trout. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 331 miles. Elevation, 6,906 feet.) Cimarron Canon. Where Cimarron Creek empties into the Gun- nison through a short canon the road leaves Black Canon, which continues CURRECANTI NEEDLE, BLACK CANON. 9° OVER THE RANGE. on with the larger stream, heightening in awfulness. Down there the fall (it the river increases so rapidly that to follow it to the end, the railroad would emerge a thousand feet below the valley which it seeks, if a practic- able grade should be kept, so the engineers have turned the road out to the valley through Cimarron Canon, and in four or five miles a verdureless expanse is reached, and for hours the road traverses a region which is picturesque in its poverty and desolation ; and in the summer the distant and sun-heated buttes, with the arid plains between, remind the traveler of the Wastes of Arabia Petra. A UTE COUNCIL FIRE. Cedar Divide is reached directly after emerging from Cimarron Canon. From here the Uncompahgre Valley, its river, and the distant, picturesque peaks of the San Juan are within full sight of the traveler. Descending to the valley and following the river past Montrose, the Gunnison is again encountered at Delta. The town of Montrose can take just pride in the grandeur of its mountain view. Situated in the Uncompahgre Valley, Montrose is almost CHIPETA FALLS IN THE BLACK CANON. 92 OVER THE RANGE. MONTROSE. Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 353 miles. Elevation, 5,811 feet. surrounded by mountains. The San Juan Moun- tains tower into the heavens to the south, cap- tained by Mounts Sneffles and Uncompahgre, both over fourteen thousand feet high. Along the western horizon trend the Uncompahgre Peaks to where the Dolores joins the Grand River, a distance of over one hundred and fifty miles. The Uncompahgre Valley is fertile, and along the branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad from Montrose to Ouray, is under high state of cultivation. The cereals, fruit and vegetables, together with forage plants, flourish here in the greatest luxuriance. Here was the Indian reservation, and here lived Ouray, the friend of the white man. It is only a few years since th good chief died, and his farm and buildings are still pointed out to the traveler, on the line to the town of Ouray, about two miles south of Montrose. The land in the valley surrounding Montrose is gradually being brought under cultivation. Irrigating canals have been constructed, and the rich soil responds generously to the demands of the farmer. Mining and pastoral industries also contribute greatly to the success of Montrose. There can be found excellent hunting and fishing in the vicinity. Delta is twenty-one miles from Montrose, and is the county seat of Delta County. It is situated in the delta formed by the junction of the Uncompahgre and the Gunnison Rivers. The town is in a fine agricultural region and is supported by farming, pastoral and mining industries. It is destined to become, in time, a considerable business centre. (Population, 400. Distance from Denver, 374 miles. Elevation, 4,980 feet.) Between Delta and Grand Junction there are a number of small sta- tions which will not interest the traveler, but the scenery through which the railroad passes (while it is not especially startling) will interest him. After passing Delta the road crosses the Uncompahgre and follows the west bank of the Gunnison (the same river that was left at Cimarron, forty-four miles behind us). In about five miles we cross to the east bank of the Gunnison and roll along beneath cliffs which tower on our right above the train, leaving but little room between rocks and river. At Bridgeport the cars plunge into the Bridgeport Tunnel, 2,256 feet in length, one of the longest tunnels on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Shortly an iron bridge, over a fine stream (the Grand River) is passed, and we find ourselves at the junction of the Gunnison with the Grand River; and of the two main lines of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad with the Rio Grande Western Rail- way PUEBLO TO ALAMOSA. o |ROM Pueblo to Cuchara Junction, a distance of 50 miles, the railroad extends to the southward across the plains which stretch in one vast unbroken expanse to the eastern horizon, while to the west lies the Greenhorn Range with its interven- ing foothills. Spanish Peaks. To the south rise the famed Spanish Peaks, springing directly from the plains, remarkable for their symmetry of out- line, and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 feet. The Indians, with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these beautifully moun- tains "Wahatoya," or twin breasts. As a matter of orthographical interest, the reader may be pleased to know that the Indian spelling of the word is as follows: " Huacjatollas !" Trinidad Branch. From Cuchara Junction, one line of the road extends in a southern direction to Trinidad, the largest city in Southern Colorado and the centre of the famous coal measures of El Moro. This branch of the road does not pass directly through grand scenery, as it extends to the southward across the plains, and to the east of the moun- tains; but the line is of great commercial importance, as by its connections at Trinidad it affords a direct through route to the Gulf of Mexico. Locally, also, it is of especial importance as El Moro and Trinidad are in the heart of one of the greatest coal regions in the west, and the agricultural and pastoral industries of the plains are of large proportions. From Cuchara Junction the stations occur in the following order: Tuna, Rouse Junction, Santa Clara, Boaz, Apishapa, Barnes, Chicosa and El Moro. El Moro is worthy of special mention because of its extensive coal mines and coking ovens; the latter are 250 in number, and the greatest in the State. The town derives its name from the great butte (El Moro) which towers above it, presenting a very striking object to the view. (Population, 250. Distance from Denver, 206 miles. Elevation, 5,879 feet.) This is the metropolis of southeastern Colo- rado, and the terminus of this branch of the Den- ver & Rio Grande Railroad. Trinidad is the trade and money centre for an immense territory, including portions of northern Texas, southern Colorado and northern New Mexico. In natural resources, Trinidad is exceedingly rich, being the centre of the largest coal belt in the world, and the supply depot for most of the coke used in the Great West. In addition to coal and coke in the immediate vicinity, iron exists in unlimited quanti- ties. The supply of gypsum, granite, alum, fire-clay, silica, grit or grind- stone, limestone and the finest of building stone is absolutely inexhaustible, Trinidad, from the natural deposit alone, must of necessity become a 93 TRINIDAD. Commercial and Hanu- facturing City. Population, 8,000. Elevation, 5,994 feet. Distance from Denver, 210 miles. TO THE GOLDEN HATE. 95 manufacturing centre of vast importance, and has already taken advanced steps in this regard. A §200,000 rolling mill is now in operation. The manufacture of cement, mineral paint, lime, and plaster of paris, are all important industries, while the production of building brick is very large in its proportions. Fire-brick and silica brick will soon be an additional industry. In and around Trinidad no less than three thousand laborers are now employed, and this large and daily increasing number of men spend their money in Trinidad. The city has water-works, gas-works, electric light, street cars, and other metropolitan improvements. The schools and churches are very superior, while the business houses and residences are a credit to the city. Its elevation above the level of the sea insures a delight- ful climate, free from malaria and other poisons common to lower altitudes, while the scenic surroundings are unsurpassed, Raton Peak and the distant range adding their grandeur to the beauty of the scene. Trinidad is a railroad centre, with three great trunk lines already in operation, with three more moving toward it ; is the most important wool centre in Colorado, being the orignal market for 3,000,000 pounds, and is also a great cattle centre and, for that reason, the largest hide and pelt-receiving point in the State. Resuming the journey to Alamosa, the tourist returns to Cucbara Junction. A small town at the junction of the New Mexico and Trinidad extensions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The supporting industries are pastoral and agricultural pursuits. (Popula- tion, 200. Distance from Denver 169 miles. Elevation, 5,942 feet.) Walsenburg". A flourishing town doing a large business, both at home and abroad. It is surrounded by a fine pastoral country, and also derives revenue from agriculture. Coal is mined near here in large quan- tities. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 176 miles. Elevation, 6,189 feet.) La Veta. A prosperous village surrounded by a pastoral country and in the midst of most beautiful scenery, being near the foothills of La Veta Mountain and the famous pass known by the same name. The Spanish Peaks are also in plain view to the east. (Population, 600. Dis- tance from Denver, 191 miles. Elevation, 7,024 feet.) The ascent of this famous pass is one of the great engineering achievements of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The line follows the ravine formed by a little stream, La Veta Moun- tain rising to the right. At the head of this gulch is the wonderful " Mule-Shoe Curve," the sharpest curve of the kind known in railroad engineering. In the centre of the bend is a bridge, and the sparkling waters of the moun- tain stream can be seen flashing and foaming in theirrocky bed below. Standing on the rear platform of the car as the train rounds the curve, the tourist can see the fireman and engineer attending to their duties. From this point the ascent of Dump Mountain begins, rocks and precipitous escarpments of shaley soil to the right and perpendicular cliffs and chasms to the left. The ascent is slowly made, two meat Mogul engines urging their iron sinews to the giant task. The view to the eastward is one of great extent and magnificence. The plains stretch onward to the dim VETA PASS. Elevation, 9,393 feet. rtaximum Grade, 211 feet to the mile. Distance Across Pass, 13 miles. 9 6 OVER THE RANGE I JBIJIH II CLIMBING THE MOUNTAINS AT VETA PASS. horizon line like a gently undulating ocean, from which rise the twin cones of Wahatoya, strangely fascinating in their symmetrical beauty. At the summit of the pass the railroad reaches an elevation of 9,393 feet above the sea. Veta Mountain is to the right, as the ascent of the pass is made, and rises with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 feet above the sea. The stupendous proportions of this mountain, the illimita- ble expanse of the plains, the symmetrical , cones of the Spanish Peaks present a picture upon which it is a never-ceasing delight for the eye to dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its winding course, and at last reaches the apex, glides into the timber and halts at the handsome stone station over 9,000 feet above the level of the distant sea. The downward TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 97 journey is past Sierra Blanca and old Fort Garland and through that pastoral and picturesque valley known as San Luis Park. Placer. At Placer, one can say that the descent of Veta Pass has been accomplished, although it is still down grade as far as Alamosa. This little town is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at the western extremity of La Veta Pass. Good hunting and fishing can be found in the neighboring foothills. The tributary industries are agriculture and stock raising. (Population, 75. Distance from Denver, 212 miles. Elevation, 8,410 feet.) Garland. This town was formerly known as Fort Garland, and was a United States military post. Sierra Blanca, elevation, 14.483 feet, the highest mountain in the United States with one exception, is seventeen miles distant. Good trout fishing and shooting can be found in the adjacent foot- hills. Garland's tributary industries are agriculture and stock raising. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 226 miles. Elevation, 7,936 feet.) Sierra Blanca is the monarch of the Rocky SIERRA BLANCA Highest Mountain of The Rocky Range. Elevation, 14,483 feet. Range, and is characterized by the peculiarity of a triple peak. The mountain rises directly from the plain to the stupendous height of 14,483 feet, over two miles and three-fifths of sheer ascent. A magnificent view of this moun- tain is obtained from the cars as soon as the descent from Veta Pass into the San Luis Valley has been made. Surely it is worth a journey across the continent to obtain a view of such a mountain ! Although a part of the range, it stands at the head of the valley, like a monarch taking precedence of a lordly retinue. Two-thirds of its height is above timber-line, bare and desolate, and except for a month or two of mid- summer, dazzling white with snow, while in its abysmal gorges it holds eternal reservoirs of ice. "Oh, sacred mount with kingly crest Through tideless ether reaching, m The earth world kneels to hear the prayer Thy dusky slopes are teaching. With mystic glow on sunset eyes All trembling lie thy blood-red leaves, Their silken veins with gold inwrought, Oh, glorious is thy world-wide thought." The lower slopes of the mountain are clad in vast forests of pine and hemlock, while its grand triad of gray granite peaks lift into the sky their sharp pyramidal pinnacles, splintered and furrowed by the storm-com- pelling and omnipotent hand of the Almighty. To the north and south, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles, it is flanked by the serrated crests of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the whole forming a panorama of unex- ampled grandeur and beauty. Sail Luis Park. This great and fertile valley is located in Southern Colorado, bordering New Mexico, and' is drained by the Rio Grande, one of the largest of Colorado's rivers, into which flows from the lofty mountain ranges surrounding the park, almost numberless little mountain streams. This park, which was once the bottom of a vast mountain lake, contains fully 10,000 square miles — equal to the entire area of Massachusetts. The TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 99 soil is alluvial, from six to fifteen feet deep, and the surface is naturally well adapted for irrigation, which the rivers and streams in the park are abundantly capable of providing. The park, or valley, as it is frequently called, is from 7,000 to 7,300 feet above sea level. This elevation insures a light, pure atmosphere, free from all malarial conditions, and especially favorable for those disposed to pulmonary affections. The climate is cool in the summer, and not severe in the winter — scarcely ever more than an occasional snowfall of two or three inches in the valley. Too much in praise of the attractions and beauty of the climate of the San Luis Valley cannot be said. The grand chain of mountains, which entirely surround the park, present scenery unsurpassed in the world. Spring wheat will yield from thirty to fifty bushels to the acre, oats from fifty to seventy-five bushels, peas from thirty to forty bushels, potatoes from two hundred to three hundred bushels to the acre ; beans, cabbage, all kinds of root crops, are unexcelled anywhere. Hops do well ; tomatoes and melons are grown, but with some effort. Corn, in consequence of the elevation, except for garden purposes, does not pay. Alfalfa — the clover of the mountains — does well, yielding from four to six tons in two cuttings. Common red clover, timothy and red top do well. The native grasses, by irrigation, yield two tons per acre. All kinds of small fruit do exceedingly well. Grapes are untried, but it is believed they will succeed. Apples and cherries do well, plums and pears may, but peaches cannot be grown. Surrounding the valley, embracing the foot-hills and lower mountain ranges, is a range covering millions of acres, where cattle, horses and sheep can feed for more than nine months in the year. The grasses are more abundant and nutritious than upon the lower elevations. The stock so grazed upon these free ranges in the sum- mer and fed upon the home farms in the valley in the winter, can be handled without hazard, and with certainty of profitable return to the farmer and large ranchmen. This is one of the most considerable towns ALAMOSA. Junctional City. Eating Station. Population, 1,500. Distance From Denver, Via Veta Pass, 250 Miles, Via Salida, 302 Hiles. Elevation, 7,546 feet. of the San Luis Valley. It is situated on the west bank of the Rio Grande river, and at the junction of the New Mexico, San Luis and Creede branches of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The resources of the San Luis Valley have been described above, and it goes without saying that these resources are naturally tributary to the welfare of .Alamosa. The town is well supplied with stores of all kinds, some of which carry large stocks of goods. Great quantities of hay and grain, and farm produce generally, are shipped from this station, which also commands a large local trade. Within a short distance of the town a natural gas supply has been discovered, which only needs adequate development to make it an element of great prosperity to the city. There are also a large number of ever-flowing artesian wells near the city, which insure a never-failing source of pure water. The eating house at Alamoso, while unpretentious in its exterior, furnishes one of the best meals to be obtained anywhere, and has a wide-spread and well-de- served reputation. The scenery surrounding the town is grand, and the near proximitv of the river makes it a favorite resort for sportsmen. Creede Branch. From Alamosa a branch of the Denver & Rio IOO OVER THE RANGE SUMMIT OF VETA MOUNTAIN. Grande extends up the valley a distance of seventy miles to the great hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, and the famous gold and silver mining camp of Creede. The line passes through an exceedingly fertile agricultural country lying on both sides of the Rio Grande, and irrigated by the great canals taken out from the river. In the proper season of the year thousands of acres of wheat and oats, alfalfa and other farm produce can be seen growing in the greatest luxuriance on both sides of the track. Monte Vista. This flourishing town is an example of rapid growth and a proof of the self-sustaining character of the country. The surround- ing country is full of coal, oil and gas. Very rich mines are being devel- oped (ore running from $1,000 to $2,000 per ton) in the mountains southwest of Monte Vista, which is located in the midst of 300,000 acres of the richest irrigable land with abundance of water to supply it. Monte Vista is a new, growing, enterprising prohibition town, and has a superior class of citizens. It is rapidly becoming an extra desirable residence locality. It has a first class roller process flouring mill, fifteen stores, two banks, a planing mill, TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 101 three lumber yards, three weekly papers, three livery stables, large public library, an $8,000 school-house, a $75,000 hotel, seven church organizations, a secular Sunday society, secret societies, military company, cornet band, etc. In the vicinity is one farm of 7,000 and another of 4,000 acres. The Colorado Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers and Sailors is located here. Some two hundred veterans occupy the magnificent building and surround- ing cottages, enjoying, in their declining years, a well earned respite from the turmoil of war. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 267 miles. Elevation, 7,665 feet.) Del Norte. This is the oldest town in what is known as the San Juan country, and is the county seat of Rio Grande county. The town site was surveyed in 1872, though the town company was formed in 1871. The town is so situated as to be on the line between the agricultural and mining sections. To the north and east of the town are the rich and rapidly settling agricultural and pastoral lands of the San Luis Valley, to the south and west are the great mines of San Juan. Del Norte is beautifully situated in a basin at the foot of the mountains, sheltered from the blasts of winter and having the most delightful weather' in summer. The Rio Grande flows through the edge of the Del Norte town site, and offers to manufac- turing interests exceptionally fine water power. Del Norte has some excellent business and dwelling houses, fine public school buildings, two good church buildings — above the average, the Presbyterian College of the Southwest (a staunch educational institution), a fine flouring mill of the latest roller process, a large brewery using home grown barley, two banks, court house costing $30,000, the United States land office, where all business regarding lands in this district must be transacted, and countless other enterprises that cannot be mentioned here. On Lookout Mountain, 600 feet above the town, is mounted a large telescope, to be used in connection with the Presbyterian College of the Southwest. The view from the Lookout observatory is grand in the extreme. The streets of Del Norte are wide, and the town is noted for its growth of trees — mostly cottonwoods. Water for irrigating purposes is supplied by means of a main canal from the Rio Grande, with laterals over the town site along the sides of streets. The distance from Del Norte to the following points is : To Alamosa, 30 miles ; to Saguache, 35 miles; to Villa Grove, 45 miles ; to Monte Vista, 15 miles; to Veteran, 18 miles; to Summitville, 27 miles; to Wagon Wheel Gap, 30 miles; to Creede, 40 miles; to Shaw's Springs, 6 miles; to Carnero, 25 miles. Del Norte is certainly a very attractive town. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 281 miles. Elevation, 7,880 feet.) From Del Norte the line follows the river amidst most attractive scenery. South Fork is a small station on the river, and is a favorite stopping place for anglers. The hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, to gether with the magnificence of the scenery, make it one of the most attractive pleasure resells in Colorado. As the Gap is approached the valley narrows until the river is hemmed in between massive walls of solid rock, that rise to such a height on either side as to throw the passage into a twilight shadow. The river rushes roaring down over gleaming gravel or Wagon Wheel Gap Hot Springs. Distance from Denver, 311 Miles. Elevation, 8,440 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 103 precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene becomes wilder and more romantic, until at last the waters of the Rio Grande pour through a cleft in the rocks just wide enough to allow the construction of a road at the river's edge. On the right, as one enters, tower cliffs to a tremend- ous height, suggestive in their appearance of the palisades on the Hudson. On the left rises the round shoulder of a mass- ive mountain. The vast wall is unbroken for more than half a mile, its crest presenting an almost unserrated sky line. Once through the gap the traveler, looking to the south, sees a valley encroached upon and surrounded by hills. Here is the old stage station, a primi- tive and picturesque structure of hewn logs and adobe, one storv in height, facing the south, and made cool and in- viting by wide-roofed verandas up the Rio grande. extending along its entire front. Not a hundred feet away rolls the Rio Grande swarming with trout. A drive of a mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals new scenic beauties, brings the tourist to the famous springs. The medicinal qualities of the waters, both of the cold and hot springs, have been thoroughly tested and proved to be of a very superior quality. Lieutenant Wheeler, U. S. A., gives the following analysis of these springs : No. 1 has a temperature of about 1 50° Fahrenheit, is bubbling continually, and is about eight feet wide by twelve feet long; No. 2 is a small bubbling spring, cold, and about one foot in diameter, and gives out a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen ; No. 3 is situated some distance from Nos. 1 and 2, at the foot of a hill, it bubbles continually and is of a temperature of 140 Fahrenheit. This spring is about three feet wide and the same in length ; it is called the Soda Spring. In one thousand parts of the water of the springs of Wagon Wheel Gap a r^ contained parts as follows: No. 1 No. 2. No. j. Sodium Carbonate 6942 Lithium Carbonate Trace. Calcium Carbonate 14.08 Magnesium Carbonate 10.91 Potassium Sulphate Trace. Sodium Sulphate 2 3-73 Sodium Chloride 29.25 .Silicic Acid 5.73 Organic Matter Trace. Sulphuretted Hydrogen Trace. Total 152.12 Trace. 144.50 Trace. Trace. 31.00 22.42 5.10 22.42 Trace. Trace. 10.50 13.76 11.72 33-34 1.07 4.72 Trace. 12.00 71.39 218.77 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 105 There are two good hotels at Wagon Wheel Gap, one at the springs, another close to the station, giving ample accommodation for invalids and sportsmen. The bathing facilities at the springs consist of two first class bath houses, one at each of the hot springs, which are supplied with modern conveniences. Antelope Springs. Twenty miles west of Wagon Wheel Gap, in Antelope Park, are situated Antelope Springs, in a region which is becom- ing a great resort for sportsmen and abounding in fish and game. The waters of the springs are medicinal and resemble the more widely-known mineral waters of the gap, in that they are both hoth hot and cold, and differ among themselves in their mineral constituents. The scenery is wild and beautiful. For a hunting party, or as a place for a few days' outing in camp, no more pleasing spot can be found. Trout Fishing 1 in the Kio Grande. There is no stream on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains that affords finer trout fishing than the Rio Grande. Trout reaching the wonderful weight of nine pounds have been frequently taken, and those weighing from one to three pounds can be caught in great abundance. This is undoubtedly one of the best fishing resorts in America. Ten miles beyond Wagon Wheel Gap on Willow Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande, is Creede, the new but already famous mining camp. This camp was located but a few years ago, and is to-day one of the largest produc- ing camps in the State, and has a population of five thousand. While Creede is known as a silver camp, it is not distinctly so. The ore in CREEDE. Great Hining Camp. Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 320 niles. Elevation, 9,016 feet. that district varies, and almost every property has more or less of a per- centage of gold. The vein matter is so rich in the leading mines that even did they not contain gold they could be worked at a profit. But with Lead- ville, so with Creede. The deeper the mines are going, the heavier the percentage of gold. This has been the invariable rule with the large pro- ducing properties, which, from the indications, will soon have enough gold to pay for their working. The camp is active and is progressing. A great deal of development work is going on, contracts being let for extensive work every day. New districts are being opened up, revealing new forma- tions and good paying ore. The properties that first brought the camp into prominence are continuing their large output. There are several good hotels in Creede, and the wayfarer will be assured of all modern comforts. ALAMOSA TO ESPANOLA AND SANTA FE. HE New Mexico branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad extends southward from Alamosa to Espahola, passing through an interesting country to the tourist, especially after New Mexico has been entered. Here can be seen what remains of the ancient Spanish civilization, as well as the habitations of the Pueblo Indians and the ruins of the pre-historic Cliff EMBUDO, RIO GRANDE VALLEY. Dwellers. Leaving Alamosa the road turns to the south and crosses the southern portion of the San Luis Valley. La Jara. Within the last few years many new towns have sprung up in the valley, owing to the development of its agricultural industries, through the construction of great irrigating canals. Old settlements have acquired new vigor and advanced greatly in prosperity. La Jara is one of 1 06 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 107 the towns that has received this new impulse. Its people are enterprising and industrious. Agriculture and pastoral pursuits contribute to the town's success. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 265 miles. Elevation, 7,609 feet.) Manassa. This is a village for a colony of Mormons, which has been established near Antonito. These Mormons do not practice polygamy and are industrious and law abiding citizens. Antonito, This town is a thriving and prosperous place, the last one of any special importance on the railroad in the southern part of the San Luis Valley. Stock raising and agriculture occupy the attention of the surrounding population. There is a fine stone depot here, and there are many creditable business blocks. It is the station for Conejos, one mile distant ; for Manassa, a large and prosperous Mormon settlement, in which polygamy is not practiced, eight miles distant, and for San Rafael, four ^ OLD CHURCH OF SAN JUAN. miles distant. Its position in the heart of the San Luis valley (for full description of which see Alamosa) insures it a generous and constantly increasing support from agricultural and pastoral industries. Being the junctional point of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad's New Mexico and San Juan branches gives it a large railroad business. Tourists will do well to stop at Antonito and visit the old Mexican town of Conejos, which is the most accessible town of the typical Mexican character in Colorado. Here may be found the plazas, churches and ancient adobe houses peculiar to the early civilization of the Spanish. Fine fishing can be found near Antonito. Antonito itself is a modern town with all the life and push oi the American, full of business and enterprise. (Population, 400. Distance from Denver, 279 miles. Elevation, 7,888 feet.) Palnrilla is twenty-three miles from Antonito, and here the road enters the Territory of New Mexico and passes through a number of small stations of no especial interest to the tourist. As a matter of statistics, the names of these stations and their distances from Denver are given; Pal- io8 OVER THE RANGE A TYPICAL MEXICAN. milla, 290 miles. Volcano, 297 miles. No Agua, 306 miles. Tres Piedras, 313 miles. Serviletta, 323 miles. Caliente, 335 miles. Barranca, 344 miles. Comanche, 346 miles. Embudo, 351 miles. Alcalde, 359 miles. Chamita, 365 miles. Espafiola, 370 miles. The traveler will notice that the names of the stations have assumed a Spanish form, and should he happen to address any of the swarthy men that chance to be lounging around the stations, he would very likely to receive a reply in the language of His- pania. The Spanish spoken is not Castilian by any means, but is about as near it as " pidgin English " is to genuine Chinese, being a mixture of English, Spanish and Indian dialects. Barranca is a quiet little station in New Mexico, 344 miles from Denver. Its only claim for special mention is the fact that here the traveler takes the stage for Ojo Caliente, the celebrated hot springs, which lie among the hills, eleven miles to the westward. Stages to and from the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. log 0J0 CALIENTE. Famous Hot Springs. Health and Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 7,324 feet. springs connect with passenger trains, making quick time over an excellent road. The altitude of the springs is 7,324 feet, and the climate at all seasons of the year mild and pleasant. The springs have been noted for their curative properties and from time immemorial, having been frequented by the Indians previous to Spanish occupation and highly esteemed by both races sinces that date. They have proved re- markably successful in the treatment of rheuma- tism, skin diseases, derangement of the kidneys and bladder, and especially of all venereal diseases. Cases of paralysis, after resisting the usual appliances of medicine, have been sent to Ojo Caliente, and immediately and permanently relieved. The springs lie in a pleasant valley, one thousand feet lower than Barranca, surrounded by high bluffs capped with basaltic cliffs. On the top of these cliffs are table-lands on which are found the ruins of prehistoric buildings, not unlike the Indian pueblos of the present day, but of which the Indians know noth- ing and even their traditions furnish no account. Four miles above the village are larger springs of tepid water, the min- eral deposits from which have built up great mounds, full of strange caves and glittering with saline incrustations. About three miles from Ojo Caliente is a high mountain called Cerro Colorado, from its peculiar reddish brown color, which, ac- cording to the statement of the inhabitants, exhibited marked evidences of volcanic action only sixty-two years ago. It has a well defined crater, and offer's an inviting field for the investigations of the geologist. Comanche Canon. Six miles below Barranca the train enters Comanche Canon. Through this canon the road makes its descent into the Rio Grande Valley. Rugged, difficult and striking, the canon com- mands the admiration of the spectator. Through breaks in the walls can be caught glimpses of the valley and river, the noble Rio Grande beneath. Experienced travelers who have made the "grand tour" say that this scene resembles choice bits in Switzerland. Ernest Ingersoll thus describes the valley in his charming book, " The Crest of the Continent" : "Emerg- ing from Comanche Canon, a bend to the southward is made along the western bank of the lower part of the canon of the Rio Grande. In many PUEBLO INDIANS. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. m portions of this narrow valley, only about twenty miles in length, features of great interest to the eye occur, equaling the walls of Comanche, which was itself ignored until the railway brought it to the light. The river here is about sixty yards wide, and pours with a swift current troubled by in- numerable fallen rocks. At times it is swollen and yellow with the drift of late rains, but in clear weather its waters are bright and blue, for it has not yet soiled its color with the fine silt which will thicken it between Texas and Mexico. On the opposite bank, near the level of the river, runs the wagon road that General Edward Hatch, formerly commander of the department of New Mexico, cut some years ago to give ready communication between his headquarters at Santa Fe and the posts in the northern part of the Territory and in southern Colorado. This is the track now followed by all teamsters, but the old road from the south to Taos ran over the hills far to the eastward, passing through Picuris." Embudo. At the mouth of Comanche Canon stands an odd conical hill dividing the current of the river. Noticing its resemblance to a funnel the Mexicans called it Embudo, and the station here takes the same name. Embudo is chiefly important as the point of departure for Taos, whose remarkable pueblo is described further on. Espanola. This little village is the southern terminus of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and is of interest to the tourist because of its con- tiguity to ancient pueblos and the ruins of Cliff dwellings. The Santa Fe Southern Railroad connects here with the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and by it the journey is continued to Santa Fe. Espanola's tributary indus- tries are pastoral and agricultural. (Population, ioo. Distance from Denver, 370 miles. Elevation, 5,590 feet.) Places of interest near Espanola. Santa Cruz is a most interesting old Mexican town, situated on the Rio Grande del Norte, directly opposite Espanola. Its chief attraction is the ancient church erected in the sixteenth century, which contains several paintings and images sent over from Spain. The Pneblo of San Juan is situated on the Rio Grande, about four miles above Espanola, and one and one-half mile from the railroad. There are twenty- six similar Indian towns, nineteen of which are situated in New Mexico, and seven in Arizona. Nine of them are on the line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, or its immediate vicinity, viz. : Taos, Picuris, San Juan, Santa Clara, San Yldefonso, Pojuaque, Nombe, Cuyamauque, and Tesuque. The different pueblos closely resemble each other in construction. The dwellings are all built of mud-colored adobes, or sun-dried bricks, and are arranged so as to inclose a plaza or public square. The walls are from two to four feet in thickness, and the roofs are of timber, covered with dirt a foot or more in depth ; many houses are two, and some even four and five stories, or rather terraces, in height, each successive story being set back some twelve or fifteen feet from the side walls of the next story below. The usual manner of entering these dwellings is by ascending a ladder outside the building to the roof, and through a hole descending to the inter- ior by another ladder; though some, as a modern improvement, have doors SANTA CRUZ PUEBLO OF SAN JUAN. PUEBLO DE TAOS. ri2 OVER THE RANGE cut through the side walls. This method was doubtless adopted as a defensive measure during troublesome times - , when it was often necessary to convert the pueblo into a fortress from which to repel hostile invasions. Pueblo of Santa Clara A few miles below the pueblo of San Juan is the pueblo of Santa Clara, just across the river from Chamita, a station on the Denver & Rio Grande line. Its characteristics are similar to those of the pueblos already described. The Pueblo tie Taos. Thirty miles above Embudo is the Pueblo de Taos. This is considered the most interesting as well as the most per- fect specimen of a Pueblo Indian fortress. It consists of two communistic houses, each five stories high, and a Roman Catholic church, now in a ruined condition, which stands near, although apart from, the dwellings. Around the fortress are seven circular mounds, which at first suggest the idea of being the work of Mound Builders. On further examination they •j&tmmx&SHmm NEW MEXICAN LIFE. prove to be the sweating chambers, or Turkish bath, of this curious people. The largest appears also to serve the purpose of a council chamber and mystic hall, where rites peculiar to the tribe, about which they are very reticent, are performed. The Pueblo Indians delight to adorn themselves in gay colors, and form very interesting and picturesque subjects for the artist, especially when associated with their quaint surroundings. They are skilled in the manufacture of pottery, basket making and bead work. The grand annual festival of these Indians occurs on the 30th of September, and the ceremonies are of a peculiarly interesting character. All of these ancient pueblos are easy of access via the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and abound in objects of interest dating back many hundreds of years before the occupation of the country by the whites, and will fully repay the tourist for the time and expense necessary to visit them. Espanola to Santa Fe. At Espanola the Santa Fe Southern Railroad connects with the Denver & Rio Grande and carries the tourist TO THE GOLDEN GATE. "3 SANTA FE, The Oldest Town in the United States. Commercial City and Health ResoVt. Population, 7,000. Distance from Denver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7,046 feet. still further southward to the capital of New Mexico, one of the most interesting cities on the North American continent, Santa Fe. En route one can catch a glimpse of the ruins of ancient cliff dwellings perched in the alcoves of the perpendicular bluffs which rise near the track. The journey is only a distance of thirty-eight miles through a country presenting novelty to the eyes of those unfamiliar to sub-tropical scenes, but not of an especially startling character. The capital of the territory of New .Mexico is the oldest city in the United States, there being evidence to show that it was inhabited as early as 1325, or nearly three hundred years before the pilgrim fathers landed on Plymouth Rock. The city of Holy Faith is situated on both sides of the Santa Fe Creek. The streets are narrow, and the buildings are almost all constructed of adobe, and only one story in height. The city is filled with antiquities, the most remarkable of which, perhaps, is the church of San Miguel, built in 1582, and the Palace, erected in 1710. The city is free from malaria and excessive heat and cold, and from wind and sand storms. It is supplied with pure water and pure air from the the mountains surrounding ; it has delightful scenery beneath bright sunshine with glorious sunsets; it has .trout in its streams, and game in the adjacent hills and mountains; the people are daily supplied at their doors with the freshest and choicest esculents of home production ; and besides possessing wonderful health-giving proper- ties, it is one of the most comfortable residence cities in the world. This fact is rapidly becoming known and appreciated, as witness its growing popularity both as a summer residence for people from the South, and as a winter residence for people from the North, and as an all-the-year-round residence and sanitarium for people variously in search of health, comfort, pleasure and business. Santa Fe is the chief money centre of the. Territory. It has two old and well established national banking houses, besides hundreds of thousands of dollars for loan in private hands. It has a live board of trade, the most able and distinguished bar in the Southwest. A splendid agricultural, pastoral, and mining country is tributary to the city. (Population, 7,000. Distance from Denver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7,046 feet.) ALAMOSA TO SILVERTON. T Antonito the line branches, that to Espanola and Santa F6 extending due south and that to Silverton turning to the westward. The trip from Antonito to Silverton is one of great interest and abounds in scenic attractions. The road gradually climbs out of the valley of San Luis and up the eastward slope to the Conejos range of mountains. The line from Big Horn to Arboles is constantly among the hills, and the stations are either for the convenience of stockmen or shipping points for lumber, and while of commercial importance to the railroad, of little interest to the tourist. During the summer the Conejos Mountains furnish one of the finest ranges for stock in Colorado, and it goes without saying that these grass-carpeted hills and vales are fully occupied. The forest growth on the western slope is of a larger and more dense character than that of the eastern. Many sawmills have been here established, and the manufacture of lumber is a large industry. The climb to Chama is full of interest. The line pursues a tortuous course, following the convolutions of the hills and making the ascent up the less difficult grades of the gulches. .Los Pilios Valley. Describing a number of large curves around constantly deepening depressions, we reached the breast of a mountain, whence we obtain our first glimpse into Los Pinos Valley, and it comes like a sudden revelation of beauty and grandeur. The approach has been picturesque and gentle in character. Now we find our train clinging to a narrow pathway carved out far up the mountain's side, while great masses of a volcanic conglomerate tower overhead, and the faces of the opposing heights are broken into bristling crags. The river sinks deeper and deeper into the narrowing vale, and the space beneath us to its banks is excitingly precipitous. We crowd upon the platform, the outer step of which sometimes hangs over an abyss that makes us shudder, till some friendly bank places itself between us and the almost unbroken descent. But we learn to enjoy the imminent edge, along which the train creeps so cautiously, and begrudge every instant that the landscape is shut out by intervening objects. To say that the vision here is grand, awe-inspiring, impressive or memorable, falls short of the truth in each case. It is too much to take in at once. We are so high that not only the bottom of the valley, where the silvery ribbon of the Los Pinos trails in and out among the trees, and underneath the headlands, but even the wooded tops of the further rounded hills are below us, and we can count the dim, distant peaks in New Mexico. Phantom Curve. One ot the most striking scene? o:i the line of this ascent is Phantom Curve. Just after the side-track station of Sublette (305 miles from Denver) has been passed, the road makes a great bend 114 u6 OVER THE RANGE around the side of a mountain ; on the left rise tall monuments of sandstone, cut by the elements into weird and fantastic figures. Here is indeed a wild spot, with the valleys so deep below, the grotesque, red monumental rocks around, the tall, shelving cliffs above. A mile beyond the Curve the rail- road crosses the head of the ravine on a high bridge of trestle work. From this point the track runs directly toward the valley, on a line almost at right angles with it, to where it narrows into a mere fissure in the rocks at Toltec Gorge. The approach to this great scenic wonder prepares the traveler for something extraordi- nary and spectacular. A black speck in the distance against the precipitous surface of a frowning cliff is beheld long before Toltec is reached, and is pointed out as the entrance to the tunnel which is the gateway to the Gorge. As the advance is made around mountain spurs and deep ravines, glimpses are caught of pro- found depths and towering heights, the black speck widens into a yawning portcullis, and then the train, making a detour of four miles around a side canon, plunges into the blackness of Toltec tunnel, which is remarkable in that it pierces the summit of the mountain instead (if its base. Fifteen hundred feet of perpendicular descent would take one to the bottom of the gorge, while the seared and wrinkled expanse of the opposite wall confronts us, lifting its massive bulwarks high above us. "Fronting heaven's splendor, Strong and full and clear." When the train emerges from the tunnel it is upon the brink of a preci- pice. A solid bridge of iron and masonry, set in the rock after the manner Toltec Gorge, A Scenic Wonder. Depth of Gorge, 1,500 feet. Distance from Denver, 314 miles. f ' - :- : ! : of a balcony, supports the iSH track, and from this coigne phantom curve. of vantage the traveler be- holds a most thrilling spectacle. The tremendous gorge, whose sides are splintered rocks and monumental crags and whose depths are filled with the snow-white waters of a foaming torrent, lies beneath him, the blue sky is above him and all around the majesty and mystery of the mountains. TOLTEC GORGE. n8 OVER THE RANGE. GARFIELD MEMORIAL Garfield Memorial. To the left of the track, just beyond the bridge, stands a monument of granite. Curiosity is naturally excited at beholding this polished shaft, and the questions which arise as to its origin can be briefly answered as follows: On the 26th day of September, 1881, the National Association of General Passenger Agents (then on an excursion over the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad), at the time President Garfield was being buried in Cleveland, held memor- ial services at the mouth of Toltec tunnel and since have erected this beautiful monument in com- memoration of the event. Cumbres. This small sta- tion is on the summit of the Conejos Range, which we are now crossing, and, having passed it, we are on the Pacific slope. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 329 miles. Elevation, 10,015 feet.) Cliania. This is an eating station, where, in spite of primitive accom- modations, an excellent meal can be obtained. Large quantities of lumber are shipped from here, and the surrounding country is an excellent range for stock. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 343 miles. Elevation, 7,863 feet.) Amargo. This little station is in the midst of attractive scenery, but is especially worthy of mention from the fact that it is the station at which tourists and health seekers take the stage for Pagosa Springs. Pagosa Springs, the far famed "big medi- cine " of the Utes, the greatest thermal fountains on the continent, are situated in Archuleta County, twenty-eight miles northwest of Amargo, the nearest railway station, on the New Mexico extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. These Springs lie upon the northern bank of the San Juan River, at an altitude of seven thousand feet, and in a situation combining numerous advantages and attractions. To the north are the peaks of the San Juan range, east and west are the grassy plains dotted with immense pines and far to the south the undulating prairie stretches into New Mexico. With such an environment, the Pagosa Springs must ere long gain the celebrity to which their medicinal qualities undoubtedly entitle them. The Indians having long been aware of the healing powers of these " great medicine waters," and have, until recently, jealously guarded their possession. It is not sur- prising that these children of the wilderness, who find relief from distress Pagosa Springs. The " Big Medicine" of the Indians. HOT SPRINGS, Health and Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 7,108 feet. iuai CASTLE OF THE CUFF DWELLERS, MANCOS CANON, COLORADO. 120 OVER THE RANGE. mainly from the medications of Nature, should deplore the loss of these power- ful thermal waters. Within a basin seventy feet long and fifty feet wide, formed from its own alkaline deposits, which are twenty or thirty feet thick, the water bubbles up at a temperature of 153" Fahrenheit. There are four other springs in the immediate locality, their similarity to the main source, as shown by analysis, suggesting a common origin. Upon a cold morning the steam which rises from these different springs can be seen at a distance of several miles. These purgative, alkaline waters, with the large excess of sulphate of soda, so much increased in medicinal virtue by the degree of temperature, would seem to designate Pagosa as the Bethesda for sufferers from calculus disorders, gravel with uric diathesis, rheumatism and skin diseases, when alterative and depleting treatment is indicated. New bath houses are being erected, and the tourist will find good accom- modations here. The Pacific Slope. From Chama to Durango, the ride is down grade and through a most interesting country. Hills and valleys of great beauty, meadows covered with thick growing grass, forests of giant trees, are some of the many attractions of this trip. For details of information concerning the small stations, the tourist is referred to the tables given in another part of this book. The line passes through the Indian reservation. Ignacio. At Ignacio the Indian reservation is reached and the rude tepees of the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio de las Florida. Occasionally a glimpse can be caught of a stolid brave, tricked out in all his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it speeds by. Frequently there is quite a little group of these aborigines at the station, and they are always ready to exchange bows and arrows, trophies of the chase, or specimens of their rude handiwork, in return for very hard cash. This thriving city is the county seat of La Plata County, Colorado, and is the commercial centre of southwestern Colorado. It is the market for the agricultural region of Farming- ton and Bloomfield, New Mexico, and the valleys of the Rio de las Animas, the Rio Florida, etc. Two miles below Durango is the wonderful " ninety-two feet thick " vein of coal, one'of the largest in the State, and here are also great coke ovens. All the surrounding hills are more heavily timbered than in any other part of Colorado. In addition to its many other resources Durango boasts of two of the largest smelters in the State, reducing from their native state the precious ores of the wonderfully rich mines of the entire San Juan. With two railroads in operation, and several in contemplation, and with its natural resources Durango will in time, and a very short time too, prove to be the metropolis of the Great Southwest. The famous Cliff Ruins, a description of which will be found further on, are reached from Durango, by the Rio Grande Southern Railroad to Mancos Station, thence by saddle horses or wagons. In a word, Durango is one of the most progressive towns in Colorado, and is surrounded by a country of unexampled richness. Mining, agricul- DURANGO. Metropolis of the San Juan. Population, 8,000. Distance from Denver, via Veta Pass 450 miles. Via Salida, 502 miles. Via Ridgway, 540 miles. Elevation, 6,520 feet. 122 OVER THE RANGE. tural and pastoral pursuits all contribute to her success; but best of all her business men are alive, and by their liberality, generosity and push insure a good future for the city. Farming'ton, Bloomfield and Aztec are growing towns in New Mexico, just over the southern line of La Plata County. They are in the heart of a large agricultural and stock growing district, and near many ruins of the homes of the ancient Cliff Dwellers. Trimble Hot Springs are reached nine miles above Durango. The spacious hotel stands within a hundred yards of the road to the left of the track. Here are medicinal hot springs of great curative value, and here, in the season, gather invalids and pleasure seekers to drink the waters and enjoy the delights of this charming resort. The water as it pours out of the rock is at a temperature of 120 degrees, and runs constantly in a stream three inches in diameter. Within two feet of it is another spring flowing as much more in a stream of cold water. Bath houses have been erected, and the hot and cold water can be mixed. The medicinal properties of these springs are beyond question. Four miles further up the Animas valley are the Pinkerton springs of warm water, closely resembling in properties those at Trimble's. Leaving the springs behind, the train speeds up the valley, which gradually narrows as the advance is made, the ascending grade becomes steeper, the hills close in, and soon the view is restricted to the rocky gorge within whose depths the raging waters of the Animas sway and swirl. Magnificent Scenery. From Durango, the metropolis of the San Juan, to Silverton, the scenery is of surpassing grandeur and beauty. The railroad follows up the course of the Animas River (to which the Spaniards gave the musical but melancholy title of " Rio de las Animas Perdidas," or River of Lost Souls) until the picturesque mining town of Silverton is reached. The valley of the Animas is traversed before the canon is entered, and the traveler's eyes are delighted with succeeding scenes of sylvan beauty. To the right is the river, beyond which rise the hills ; to the left are mountains, increasing in rugged contour as the advance is made ; between the track and the river are cultivated fields and cosy farm-houses, while evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty are to be seen on every hand. This beautiful canon has characteristics pe- culiarly its own. The railroad does not follow the bed of the stream, but clings to the cliffs midway of their height, and a glance from the car windows gives one the impression of a view from a balloon. Below, a thousand feet, are the waters of the river, in places white with foam, in quiet coves, green as ocean's depths. Above, five hundred feet, climb the combing cliffs, to ANIHAS CANON. A Gem of Beauty. Depth, 1,500 feet. Distance from Denver, 470 miles. which cling pines and hemlocks. The canon here is a mere fissure in the mountain'sheart, so narrow that one can easily toss a stone across and send it bounding down the side of the opposing rock-wall until it falls into the waters of the river rushing through the abyss below. Emerging from this wonderful chasm, the bed of the gorge rises until the roadway is but a few feet above the stream. The close, confining and towering walls of rock are replaced by mountains of supreme height. The Needles, which are among 124 OVER THE RANGE. the most peculiar and striking of the Rockies, thrust their sharp and splin- tered peaks into the regions of eternal frost. Elk Park is a quiet little nook in the midst of the range, with vistas of meadow and groves of pines, a spot which would furnish the artist many a subject for his canvas. At the end of Elk Park stands Garfield Peak, lifting its summit a mile above the track. Beyond are marshalled the ever- lasting mountains, and through them for miles extends, in varying beauty and grandeur, the Canon of the Animas. Frequent waterfalls glisten in the sunlight, leaping from crag to crag only to lose themselves at last in the onflowing river. Emerging finally from this environment of crowding cliffs, the train sweeps into Baker's Park and arrives at Silverton in the heart of the San Juan. This thriving and picturesque little city is the county seat of San Juan County, Colorado, and derives its support from the surrounding mines, which are scattered in every portion of the county. The output of the camp has swelled from an annual product of $40,000 to $2,000,000 in three years. From 600 to 1,000 tons of ore are shipped weekly from Silverton, and the product is constantly increasing. An indus- try of no small importance, and which is rapidly assuming large dimensions, is the system of leasing mines, and it may be said that at least one-half of the producing mines are now being worked by lessees. Hundreds of prospects that are in a condition to ship paying mineral are now laying idle, awaiting the arrival of thrifty miners to take and work them under this system. The scenery around Silverton is of the most beautiful and attractive character, Entrance to Baker's Park, in which the town lies, is made through the famous Animas Canon. Hid in a theatre of hills, the picturesqueness of the surroundings cannot be adequately described. Sultan Mountain, one of the grandest of the San Juan Range, towers above the town ; its summit crowned with snow from which descend innumerable rills, glittering like silver in the sunbeams. SI LVERTON. Picturesque Mining Town. Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 495 miles. Elevation, 9,224 feet. DURANGO TO RIDGWAY VIA RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD. EAVING Durango via the Rio Grande Southern line, the tourist is whisked across the Rio de Las Animas up Lightner Creek, past the silver and gold smelters with their seething furnaces and smoke and dust-begrimed workmen, and shortly past the famous coal banks where the black diamond is dug from the bowels of Mother Earth, and from there hauled to the smelters where it is used for the reduction and refining of its more exalted, but not more useful brethren. Up through the valley the train speeds along among huge pines which thus far have escaped the woodman's axe, and which will be free from such invasion as long as Uncle Sam claims this particular spot as the especial reservation for the military post at old Fort Lewis. From Fort Lewis the line passes through seemingly endless forests of pine trees, and after the reservation is passed an occasional saw-mill is sighted from its emitting unearthly screeches, which the knowing ones say is merely the head sawyer sharpening up. Descending the mountain into the valley, the beholder looks out on a broad expanse of fertile, well-watered country, surrounded on all sides by snow-capped mountains, and dotted with the rancheros of the hardy pioneer, who has been well repaid for his daring in locating in this far-away but beautiful valley, by its productive- ness, and now that the railroad, that greatest of all civilizers, has come, he has abundant opportunities for the disposition of his products. In the centre of this valley lies Mancos station, which is the junction with the main line of the proposed extension of this road into Arizona. One of the most attractive portions of Colo- rado, to the scientist, antiquarian and indeed, the general tourist, is that part in which are found the cliff-dwellings of a long extinct race. Some of the most remarkable of these ancient ruins are situated in the Mancos canon, within a day's ride of Durango. A brief description of one of these will serve as a characterization of all. Perched seven hundred feet above the valley, on a little ledge only just large enough to hold it, stands a two-story house made of finely-cut sandstone, each block about fourteen by six inches, accurately fitted and set in mortar, now harder than the stone itself. The floor is the ledge of the rock, and the roof the overhanging cliff. There are three rooms on the ground floor, each one six by nine feet, with partition walls of faced stone. Traces of a floor which once separated the upper 126 THE Cliff Dwellings. Relics of A Pre=Historic Race. Ruins Older than History. RWF\.T" ANIMAS CANON AND THE NEEDLE MOUNTAIN. 128 OVER THE RANGE. from the lower story still remain. Each of the stories is six feet in height, and all the rooms are nicely plastered and painted, what now looks a dull brick red color, with a white band along the floor. The windows are "f " shaped apertures with no signs of glazing, commanding a view of the whole valley for many miles. One of our illustrations shows a fortified watch-tower, indicating that these strange cliff -dwelling people were prepared. to resist assault. Traditions are few and of history there is nothing concerning this lost race. Their ruined houses only remain, and some broken fragments of the implements made use of in war and peace. Researches are in progress concerning these extremely interesting ruins and new facts are being developed concerning their architecture ; but it is quite improbable that any certain light will ever be thrown on their origin or history. To the south of Mancos station, within a day's ride, and easily accessi- ble, are the principal ruins of the strange habitations of this extinct and mysterious race. To those seeking curiosities and wonders, the great Canon of the Mancos, the great Montezuma Valley, the McElmo Canon, the Lower Animas Valley, and the Chaco Canon are the wonderlands of the world. They contain thousands of homes, and a town of the ancient race of Mound Builders and " Cliff Dwellers," that has attracted the curious ever since the discovery of America. The great Mancos Canon contains hundreds of these homes which were built and occupied thousands of years ago. Yet many of them are in a good state of preservation, and in them have been found many specimens of pottery and implements of husbandry and warfare. This canon is cut through Mesa Verde, a distance of thirty miles, and the walls on either side rise to a perpendicular height of two thousand feet. These cliff dwellings are built in the sides of the canon, as shown in the illustration. Fifteen miles farther west from the Mancos is situated the great Montezuma Valley, where thousands of fine specimens of pottery have been found among the ruins of that ancient people. On the west side of this valley is the great McElmo Canon, also full of. the ancient homes of the "Cliff Dwellers." Thirty-five miles south of Durango, in the valley of the Animas, are some extensive ruins of the Aztecs, and fifty miles further south are the wonderful ruins in the Chaco Canon. These ancient Pueblos are, without doubt, the most extensive and the best preserved of any in the United States. Of these Prof. Hayden in his report of the Geological Survey of the United States for the year 1866, says: "The great ruins in the Chaco Canon are pre-eminently the finest examples of the works of the unknown builders to be found north of the seat of ancient Aztec Empire in Mexico." There are eleven extensive Pueblos in this canon, nearly all in a good state of preservation, and their appearance indi- cates that they were once the home of fifteen hundred to three thousand people each. From the thousands of ruins of cities, towns and families found throughout this great San Juan Valley, it is evident that once this great valley was the home of hundreds of thousands of this extinct race. That they were a peaceful and agricultural race of people is evidenced by the large number of their implements of husbandry and the specimens of corn and beans found in these ruins, besides irrigating ditches and reservoirs for the storage of water. Mancos. The debarking point for the cliff ruins as mentioned above and the leading town of the valley. Shipping point for large numbers of CLIFF DWELLINGS, 13° OVER THE RANGE. cattle and sheep. (Distance from Denver 490 miles. Population 300. Ele- vation 7,008 feet.) Leaving Mancos, the road winds up the sloping sides of a flat-topped mountain, and there on its summit, among huge pines centuries old, bubbles up a clear, cold spring of sparkling water, forming the stream thai ilows down through the beautiful Lost Canon, and which is called by the unpoetic name of " Lost Canon Creek." Lost Canon is a novelty in itself, as its sides are densely wooded and softly carpeted with a thick bed of moss and leaves, beautifully colored by millions of Colorado wild flowers whose delicate beauty is unrivaled. Emerging from Lost Canon the traveler is whirled up to the beautiful Valley of the Dolores River, with its many ranches and farms, past the town of the same name. Off to the left, flowing to the eastward, comes bubbling down the mountain side into the larger river, the West Dolores, and no more famous or prolific trout stream exists than this. Dolores. One of the principal towns in Southwestern Colorado, It is the shipping point for the southeastern part of Utah and from whence the Gold Hunters start on their prospecting trips to the canons of the San Juan and Colorado Rivers. (Population 500. Distance from Denver, 510 miles. Ele- vation 6,957 feet.) Dolores Canon. Continuing on up the main river, the valley begins to narrow down, until we are once more within the walls of a canon which takes its name from the stream flowing through it. While this canon is not particularly deep, its natural beauties are manifold and are sure to make a lasting and delightful impression on the beholder. Rushing out of the canon the tourist is now landed at Rico. Kico is one of the most important mining towns of the State, whose mines dot the mountain 'sides, and whose product is packed to the cars on the backs of the ever patient and faithful burro, without which no mining camp can be complete. Rico ranks among the " cities of the first class " and has all the facilities and improvements of a town of ten times its population. Its principal industries are those connected with mining interests, though considerable agricultural country surrounds it. The town is located in what was at one time the crater of a large volcano. Precipitous mountains with poetic names arise upon all sides of it, gradually widening, until by describing a circle of their summits they appear as the top of a huge funnel. Among them is the famous Telescope Mountain, a freak of nature only to be seen to form a proper realization of the aptness of its name. The place has much of historic interest, as evidences of early Spanish discoveries are found on many sides. (Population 3,000. Distance from Denver, via Ridg- way, 444 ; via Durango, 546 miles. Elevation 8,737 feet.) Lizard Head Pass. Leaving Rico, the line continues up the Dolores, which grows smaller and smaller, until it becomes a mere silver thread winding in and out among huge rocks and boulders. Thirteen miles north of Rico, and after climbing many miles of three and four per cent, grades, the summit of the Lizard Head Pass is reached at an eleva- tion of nearly 11,000 feet. From the summit and to the left will be seen the Lizard Head, a peculiar rock formation capping a tall, bare mountain. * mw>fr30$~ ^ I3 2 OVER THE RANGE. This rock derives its name from its resemblance to the head of a mountain lizard, though at the same time it may be said to resemble the shaft of some large monument. Descending the pass through the mountain gorges over rushing moun- tain streams, one finds one's self at Trout Lake. No more graphic description of this sheet of beautiful blue water can be given than a verse from a poem by " H. H." "The mountain's wall in the water ; It looks like a great blue cup ; And the sky looks like another Turned over, bottom side up." Here the sport-inclined tourist may spend a few days, for the lake is inhabited by thousands and thousands of mountain trout. Accommodations of a primitive, though wholesome character, can be obtained of the neigh- boring ranchmen. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, via Ridg- way 427 miles ; via Durango 563 miles. Elevation 9,400 feet.) Shortly after leaving Trout Lake, the famous Ophir Loop is passed. Here the skill of the engineer was taxed to its utmost, for the track winds in zig-zags down the mountain side, rushing through a deep cut here, over a mountain torrent and a high bridge there, darting around sharp curves, in and out of snowsheds, until on the opposite mountain and high above us is to be seen a line of freshly-turned earth, which the knowing ones say is the track over which we have just passed. From Vance Junction, a side trip of ten miles, which will repay the tourist, can be made to Telluride, a mining town of some 2,500 inhabitants, nestling among snow-capped mountains, rising to stupendous heights and rich in gold and silver. Like all the towns of the San Juan, mining is the principal resource of the city ; at Telluride are located some of the largest and richest mines in the country. (Distance from Denver, via Ridgway 423 miles ; via Duran- go ^82 miles. Elevation 8,756 feet.) From Vance Junction the journey is continued down the San Miguel River, past Placerville, until the river leaves the rail, and again we com- mence to go up ; this time over the Dallas Divide. This pass resembles Marshall Pass, though not quite so long. After reaching the summit, the line runs down the eastern slope along Leopard Creek, high above it on the mountain side, giving a most magnificent view of the Uncompahgre Range to the south with its gentle slopes softly colored by the deep, dark foliage of dense pine and fir forests ; gradually rising until the mountains develop into a huge mass of shattered pinnacles, their topmost points covered with the everlasting snow. Ridgway. This bustling little town is the northern terminus of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad, and its junction point with the Ouray branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The shops and headquarters are here, giving employment to a large portion of its inhabitants. A fine agri- cultural, as well as a very rich mining region surround Ridgway, and give promise of, making it a large and prosperous city. (Distance from Denver 378 miles ; via Durango 612 miles. Population, 1,000. Elevation, 7,002 feet.) CATHEDRAL SPIRE.— OPHIR LOOP. SILVERTON TO MONTROSE. HE trip from Silverton to Montrose across the intervening range of mountains, is not at all the difficult undertaking it looks to be. Here, blocking the way, is one of the most rugged and lofty chains of the great Rocky Mountain system, which but recently only the adventurous prospector and his sure footed burro (donkey) dared to cross ; but now the journey has been rendered an easy accomplishment by the building of the Silverton Railway over Red Mountain to Ironton, from whicn point comfortable stages carry the tourist a distance of eight miles to Ouray, where the trip is continued by way of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The construction of the Silverton Railway was a task of great magnitude, and one remarkable feature about it is that it owes its existence to the enterprise and daring of one man. For years Mr. Otto Mears has been the "pathfinder" of the San Juan country, and the toll roads constructed by him have opened the way to the many rich mining camps of that argentiferous region. Recently enlarging his field of usefulness, he began unaided and alone the building of this mountain railroad; himself being both bond owner, stockholder, corporation, president, board o» trustees, treasurer, auditor, general manager, chief engineer and paymaster. The result has been one of the most remarkable achievements in engineering of modern times. The road has the same gauge as that of the Denver & Rio Grande, and like it finds no grade so stubborn as to be insurmountable. Taking the cars at the Denver & Rio Grande depot, at Silverton, the ascent of the mountains is at once begun. There is no preliminary skirmishing along level ground for Silverton lies at the bottem of a bowl-shaped valley, and the mountains rise round about on all sides to tremendous heights. With curves, whose sinuosity surpasses that of the serpent's trail, the railroad climbs up the gulches, until at the mining station of Chattanooga the track makes an almost perfect loop, the cars traveling several miles forward and the same distance back — and there lies Chattanooga directly beneath us ! All that has been gained is altitude. This is equivalent, however, to a direct progress of a thousand feet, though it has taken a journey of fifteen thousand feet to accomplish it. At the summit of the range the railroad reaches an altitude of 12.000 feet, and the view is something to be remembered a life time. At one point of the descent it has been necessary to construct a switch-back reversing the course of the train, and yet continuing the descent. This switch-back is a novel applica- tion of engineering science, and is an exceedingly interesting piece of railroad work. The ascent and descent of Red Mountain by this wonderful railway, give the tourist not only an opportunity to behold the grandest of mountain scenery, but also the privilege of witnessing on all sides the progress of mining operations. The shafts, shaft houses, tunnels, and "prospect" holes of mines in fact or in futuro, are to be seen on all sides. The mines of Red Mountain are numerous, and several of them rank among the richest in the world. At Ironton, a typical mining 134 BEAR CREEK FALLS. 136 OVER THE RANGE. town, the Silverton Railroad has its terminus, and here stages are taken for the eight miles ride to Ouray. A Romantic Stage Ride. The stage ride forms on