NJ UC-NRLF $B b3T 5^3 VI ^' v> 45 ^H 1 ^ ■ ■ . iiil: i 1 \\ wfmfBs* Hiii'^Hli. iBr 'HE COPE LIB ^j^MmMeM-m •^^ ^^ TO b/r eturned in m^EKS. No S^ Book jrivtMi out of the LibrarySutil the bii^Kret-eived hn» been r etnrned. 4 BOOK MUST BE HANDLED WITH CARE. f'*.: Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding'from IVIicrasoft Corporation ofatdetmslfsmmai http://www.archive.org7detaiis/TanErinarletterst00g4irnrich FAMILIAR LETTERS TO HENRY CLAY OF KENTUCKY, DESCRIBINO A WINTER IN THE WEST INDIES. BY JOSEPH JOHN GURNEY. Md^na est vt^iiias ci prsevnlebit." NE W-YORK: PRESS OP MAHLON DAY & CO., 374 PEARL-STREET. Jamus Egbert, Printer. 1840. UOAN STACK JtIUI FAMILIAR LETTERS, 6cc, LETTER I VOYAGE PROM NEW-YORK, AND ENTRANCE ON THE TROPICS. Flushing, L. I. Sixth-month (Ju7ie) Ist, 1840. Mt dsar FRnWD, I seize the first day of leisure that has fallen to my lot, since I left Washington, in order to commence a narrative of my late tour in the West Indies ; and I gladly avail myself of thy obliging permission, in addressing a series of letters, on the subject, to Henry Clay of Kentucky. Sure I am, that the present state of the West India Islands, in a pecuniary, politi- cal, and moral, point of view, cannot be a matter of indiffer- ence to any American statesman. I know that thy feelings of interest in the great experiment which is now developing its results, in that part of the world, are deep and lively ; and I venture to believe that thou wilt give no severe reception to the familiar incidents — the trifling descriptions, whether in verse or prose — with which my story may probably be interwoven. I must however premise, that I undertook this journey, neither in the pursuit of pleasure, nor for the specific purpose of ascertaining the effects of emancipation ; much less as the agent or representative of any body of philanthropists, either in England or America ; but in the character of a minister of the gospel. My primary object was to preach the glad tidings of peace and salvation to my fellow men, and from persons of every class, condition, and party, in the West Indies, I have met with a cordial welcome, and the kindest attentions. q07 4 VOYAGE FROM NEW- YORK. In company with Mahlon Day, a highly respectable? citizen of New- York, and a young friend, who kindly under- took to act as our attendant and helper, I sailed from that city on the 22nd of last Eleventh-month, (November.) in the Camilla, Captain Watlington. Our ship's company consisted of about twenty individuals, (mostly in search of a warmer climate and better health) who had taken their passage, in this accommodating little ship, for Santa Cruz. The fine, but cold, frosty day, on which we left your shoresi, gave them a sufficient warning, that the season was at hand, when the rigor of a North American winter would become dangerous. At the same time, it afforded such of us as were in good health a delightful opportunity — as we swept along under full sail — of observing, ulbder the brightest aspect, the rare beauty of the harbor of New- York, the bay, and the neighboring islands. We had not continued our voyage more than three days, before we found ourselves in a genial climate. The thermom- eter stood at 70, and light clothing gradually came into requisition. The change was almost magical, and certainly it was no small luxury thus insensibly to glide into warmth, and as it were, to catch summer again by the skirts. We were now crossing " the Gulph Stream," where it is said to have a breadth of two hundred and fifty miles, and the temperature of the air was probably heightened by the heat of the waves below. To account for this enormous current of warm water which runs up from the Gulph of Mexico, in a north-easterly direction, to so great a distance, seems to be nearly impossible. What the causes are which occasion the magnitude of the current, and the heat of the water, seems to be mere matter of conjecture ; but its beneficial effect in melting the ice, and un- locldng the harbors, of North Amarica, affords one evidence among ten thousand, that even the wildest sports of nature are subservient to good and wise purposes, in the order of a bene- volent Providence. Boisterous weatlier and a strong adverse gale, were our portion as we crossed *' the Gulph." The foaming waves, with tops of a light transparent blue, rose to VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK. O an unusual height, and were in beautiful contrast with the troughs below, of a deep dull lead color. Camilla, whilom swift of wing Can now no longer fly, In vain her gallant sailors sing ; She faints and longs to die. The waves o'er which she loved to dance, ; Now horrid in her eye, In awful alpine forms advance, And curl their snows on high. O, were it not for sore affright, They might have charmed her view, Dappled and marbled o'er with white, And tipped with azure blue. But the vales and pits that yawn below Are dull and dark as lead ; They bid her every hope forego — Fit chambers for the dead ! But quail no more thou blithsome maid. Beneath the howling blast, Sun.shine alternates still with shade, Such fury cannot last. Thy guardian sylphs shall soon prevail^ To dry those tears of sorrow, A smiling sky, a favoring gale, Await thee for the morrow. This prediction was verified ; for on the following day, the wind was favorable, the weather fair, the sea of the finest ultra- marine blue, and nodiino: could be more delia^htful than our voyage. We were particularly pleased with our first sight of the flying fishes, which we observed scudding along with wonderful agility, over the surface of the water. Our Captain assured us, that he had watched one of them which flew for the full distance of half a mile, before alighting. One of them winged its way on board our ship ; and a more ex- quisitely beautiful creature I have seldom seen, about eight in- ches in length, his eye black, his back of the brightest dark blue, pure silver below, his wings fibred like a leaf, and perfecti/ 1* 6 VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK. transparent. The creature bears not the touch of man — he quivered, and presently died, in my hand. At night, the phos- phoric illumination around the ship, as she flew before the wind, was wonderful. Though there was no moon visible, one might easily have supposed that it was moonlight, and the waves sparkled, and almost blazed. The following lines are graphically true, without poetic licence. The moon beneath the waters sleeps^ The stars are veiled with clouds, The vig-orous breeze o'er Ocean sweeps^ And swells the rustling shrouds. Regardless of the gale, the storm, Camilla flies ahead, And, lo, around her angel form A mystic glare is spread. The foam she dashes from her side^ Dispels the gloom of night. And seems diffusing far and wide> A supernatural light. The myriad sparks of liquid fire Dance to the virgin's fame ; t^ And the billows from her brow retire, All flickering with flame. As we found our way into the tropics, we observed that the atmosphere became clearer and clearer; no mists were per- ceptible ; the sun seldom obscured, and the appearance ef the sky and stars, at night, peculiarly bright and clear. The moon, in these latitudes, often assumes an almost vertical posi- tion ; and many of the stars which belong to the southern he- misphere, are visible. Before day light, one morning, the Cap- tain called me upon deck, to look at the southern cross, which is certainly a constellation of rare beauty. One of the five stars which form the cross, however, is of inferior magnitude, and not in the true position,, which somewhat mars the image. When I turned towards the east, I enjoyed a still finer spectacle. The horn of an almost expiring moon, Venus, and Mars, were in all their splendor ; and the profusion of azure, lilac^ ultra- VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK. 7 marine, pea-green, orange, and crimson, which mantled the sky, about half an hour before sun- rise, I never before saw equalled. The sunset in these warm regions, is also remarkable for mellow beauty, but not as I imagined, of a splendor equal to the sun- rise. One evening, a " golden edged cloud" suggested a few lines of consolation to one of the ladies on board, who with much sorrow and anxiety, was nursing her interesting little boy, evidently sinking by degrees into the arms of death. A dark cloud was skirting the edge of the sea, A frown on the brow of the west, And nature was shrouded with sadness tome, As she sank in the ocean to rest ; But the sun that was wrapped in that mantle of woe. His radiance begins to unfold, And the veil that was darkening the billows below^ Is fringed and embroidered with gold. The scene is a signal for mental relief, While it charms and refreshes the sight ; It bids me believe that the cloud of my grief. Shall soon wear a border of light. The gilding of hope, and the beaming of love, Victorious o'er sorrows and fears, Are heralds of mercy from heaven above To illumine this valley of tears. No one needs to lack amusement during a voyage ; especial- ly within the tropics ; — nature is constantly presenting objects of interest, and the sea, in its ever varying phases, is a sight which never tires. We were amused, one morning, by watch- ing the motions of a great shark, called, from its known discern- ment and cunning, the " Sea lawyer." His broad head, ao-ile body^ and flopping green finjs, with the numerous little myrmi- don fishes which accompanied him on his journey, formed a striking spectacle. At another time, a dolphin followed our bait-— a much more taper and active fish than I had imao-ined • his fine blues and greens quite glittered through the waves. On a third occasion, the sea was seen sparkling with myriads of minute blue fishes, speckled with silver. The " juan of war 8 VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK, birds," to all appearance black, with long wings and swallow tails, were often perceptible, soaring above us to a great height, I am told that they form a curious link between the albatross and sea eagle. Their gyrations resemble those of the latter bird ; and it is said that during the hurricanes which so often occur in the West Indies, in the autumn, these birds are seen rising, in great numbers, above the sphere of agitation,, and enjoying themselves in the tranquillity of the skies above. On the 3d of the Twelfth- month (December,.) we caught our first sight of land, the conical rocky peaks of Virgin Gorda, rising before us to a considerable elevation. Soon afterwards we saw Tortola, St. John's, and St. Thomas — all, however, at a great distance. The next morning, those islands were full in sight to the westward, and in the distant east, we obtained a view of the mountains of Porto Rico. The appearance of these tropical islands, rising suddenly from the sea, and forming steep, pyrimidal elevations, sometimes of bare rock, at other times covered with greenness, was to many of us a perfect novelty ; and one is immediately led, as a matter of course, to trace their existence to some vast impulse from below. There can be little doubt, I suppose, that they are, in general, of volcanic origin ; and that they are not of that fathomless antiquity to which some of the geological strata pretend, is plainly evinced by the cir- cumstance, that the fossil shells and corals which are found imbedded in their mountain tops, mre often of precisely the same kinds as are still discovered in the Carribean seas. Our course lay through the " Virgin passage." During the clear but moonless night we passed by a precipitous rock, called the " Sail rock." Such is its resemblance to a ship in full sail, that, as the story goes, it was once battered, by mistake, as an enemy, by a French frigate. We seemed to be driving directly upon it, our mate having failed in his endeavors to steer to the leeward of it; but a sudden tack of the ship was eflected, so as to prevent the too probable contact. The next morning we were becalmed within sight of Santa Cruz, though at a distance^ from that island, of forty miles. VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK. 9 To our right — also at a long" distance — lay Crab island, which is said to be of considerable fertility and value. I under- stand that the chief part of it, is still covered with fine forest timber, that parrots abound in the woods, with wild animals and game of various descriptions. For a long time this island con- tinued unsettled and unclaimed ; but of late years it has fallen into the hands of Spain, and is said to be a kind of dependency on Porto Rico. The governor is a Frenchman ; and slaves have already been introduced into the island. It is greatly to be feared that it not only affords a refuge for the slavers of Cuba and Porto Rico, but that, it will itself be gradually peopled with slaves from Africa. It seems to be a questionable point whether Great Britain is not in possession of the first claim on this island. — If so, it is surely most desirable, for mercy's sake, that she should assert her rights. As we lay motionless, on the deep, we observed two negro boys making their way towards us, from a far distant sloop, in a crazy little boat which they were skilfully working with paddles. We fondly hoped that they were bringing us a supply of fruit ; but on their arrival, we found that their mission was to beg for a little water and pro\rision. The interview, however, was one of considerable interest ; for they were the first of the emancipated British slaves whom we saw in the West Indies. They came from Virgin Gorda, and were employed by the Captain of the sloop, himself a negro, with three others, in cutting wood on Crab island, for the use of the hospital in Santa Cruz. Their wages were five dollars and a half, per month, for each man, besides board ; thus, under the new system, they were earning their living by honest industry ; and they appeared to us to be at once well behaved, and contented. In the evening — when the patience of some of our company was beginning to flag — a favorable breeze sprung up ; the night was mild and clear, and the sliy studded with stars ; our passengers assembled on the quarterdeck, enjoying the scene; every body was in good humor in the prospect of a speedy ter- K.> 10 VOYAGE FROM NEW-YORK. mination of our voysifi^e ; and fair was the wind, the next morning, which wafted us safely to our harbor. The appearance of Santa Cruz, as you approach it from the North, is picturesque and pleasing — to us who heid been so long at sea, and were strangers to West Indian scenery, it seemed clad with beauty — a succession of rounded or conical hills and mountains, cultivated to their very tops ; partly red (being the color of the soil) where the hoe had been at work ; and partly bright green, where already covered with the sugar cane — neat planting settlements visible in various spots ; severally consist- ing of a mansion, a boiling house, a number of negro huts, eind a wind mill on some neighboring elevation, for grinding the sugar — the green wooded dells between the hills — and the cocoa-nut trees, with their tall stems, and strange looking, but elegant, deciduous branches, scattered over the whole scene. We landed at Fredericksted or West-End, exactly two weeks after our departure from New- York. Good boarding houses, well suited for invalids, were ready for the reception of all the passengers. For ourselves, we found a peaceful and commodious resting place in the house of our kind friend Re- becca Rogers —a house which we can cordially recommend to the notice of West Indian travellers. The hot-house warmth of the atmosphere, was very preceptible to our feelings on our first landing ; but we were soon refreshed with the delightful easterly breeze which seldom fails to blow in Santa Cruz ; and certainly it was not without a feeling of heartfelt gratitude to the Creator and Preserver of men, that we first landed on a West Indian shore. One consideration alone was oppressive to us — we had come to a land of slavery. But it is time I should close my first letter. I am, with great respect, &c. &c. LETTER II SANTA CRUZ. Flushings L. I. Sixth-month [June) 2dj 1840. Mr DBAK Friend, The charms of a tropical country, when novel, are calculated to make a delightful impression on the mind ; and as we roamed along the lanes, and cane-fields of Santa Cruz, during the first few days after our arrival, we could easily conceive the pleasure enjoyed by Columbus and his followers, when the fer- tility and beauty of West Indian scenery first burst upon their view. Many beautiful productions of nature however, not indigenous, are now added to the catalogue of wonders, which inflamed the imagination of Columbus. Almost every plant we saw as we drove or rode about the country, from the largest tree to the small weed, was unknown to us, and formed the subject of somewhat troublesome enquiry. It was a new world to us, as well as to its first discoverer ; and several days must be passed amidst these scenes, before one can obtain any thing like a familiar acquaintance with the produc- tions of nature. Splendid exotic plants which would be re- garded as rarities, even in the greenhouses of England and America, are cultivated in the little gardens of Santa Cruz ; and the wild flowers are scarcely less attractive. Amongst them, we observed large kinds of convolvulus, white and pink ; yellow bell- (lowers, scarlet creepers, bright blue peas of singular beauty ; and to crown all, the " pride of Barbadoes,-' sometimes crimson, sometimes yellow, with butterfly petals, long pendent stamina, and acacia like leaves, adorning the hedges in great profusion. The trees are, for the most part, bearers of fruit, and many of them are covered with luxuriant foliage. To se- 12 SANTA CRUZ. lect a few of the most remarkable, I would just mention the plantain and banana,, (nearly the same in appearance.) with pendent leaves of vast dinension, and a profusion of finger-like fruit growing in clusters — the wild orange tree^ covered at the same time with fruit and flowers — the lime^ which lines the hedges, and is ecjually fragrant, producing in abundance, a small kind of lemon — the gnava^ with pink blossoms and pear- like fruit, also frequent in the hedge rows — the mango^ heavily laden with foliage, and with fruit in its season — the mammee^ growing to a great tize, and profusely covered with glazed, dark green, foMage — lastly, the tamarind^ with its light feathery leaves and long pods which contain the fruit used for a preserve, spreading its branches far and wide, like the British oak. The sweet orange, and those larger species of the same genus, the " forbidden fruit," and the shadock, are produced only by cultivation ; but they grow in Santa Cruz very plen- tifully. In company with a young friend, I rode one morning to visit the gardens of Prosperity estate, which, for want of some of that labor, now monopolized by the sugar cane, are left in wild confusion; but these delightful fruits are still produced there in luxuriant profusion ; and a visit to Prosperity is an easy method of gratifying the sight, the smell, and the taste. Of these three senses, however, the first perhaps is the' best pleased on the occasion ; for nothing scarcely can be more beautiful than those rows of orange and shadock trees, laden with fruit, green and gold. The branches of the cocoa-nut tree diverge like the ribs of an umbrella, from one common centre ; and just at that centre, far out of reach, hang the clusters of cocoa nuts. In their half ripe state, they often supplied us with a d3licious berverage of sweet milky water, a provision of nature admirably adapted to a hot climate. But va'uable as is the cocoa-nut tree in tropical climates, it is much inferior, in beauty, to the cabbage palm, or mountain cabbage, which may be regarded as the greatest orna- ment of tliis deliT[htful island. Its straight branchless trunk, SANTA CRUZ. 13 from 30 to 50 feet high, bulges out a little in the middle, and is tjovered with a smooth grey bark, neatly divided into ringlets which mark the periods of its growth. Out of the top of the trunk rises a second stem equally straight, of bright green, which contains the cabbage so much esteemed as a delicacy at table ; above this green stem, the palm branches spring forth like those of the cocoa-nut, but with greater luxuriance ; finally, a thin spiral rod forms the summit of the tree. The high road between West-End or Fredericksted, and Bassin or Christiansted, the seat of government, (about fifteen miles in length) runs be- tween rows of cocoa-nuts and cabbage palms, which have been carefully planted on either side. On one part of this road, the latter trees are remarkably lofty and beautiful ; and so regular, and even artificial, is their appearance, that one might imagine onesself to be travelling between some of the colonnades of Paestum, or Tadmor in the desert. One good resulting, among many evils, from the despotic government of this island, is the careful preservation of its trees. No man is allowed to cut them down, even on his own estate ; for they are not only valued for their shade and beauty, but are supposed to attract the showers ; and Santa Cmz depends al- most entirely on the skies, for its supplies of water. Another favorable result of arbitrary power, is that the inhabitants have been compelled to pay for the macadamising of their roads. The travelling in Santa Cruz, is, in consequence, rapid and easy, and the evening drives through the picturesque valleys in the neighborhood of West-End, afFord a luxurious enjoy- ment, even for invalids. On the top of the spiral rod of the cabbage-palm, I have frequently observed a handsome grey bird, somewhat less than a thrush, called the chincherry. Like the king-bird of North America, it is said to mock even the hawk, and to assert its dominion over all the fowls of the air. Humming-birds and bright little barbets are seen contending for the- blossomed sweets of the yellow cedar ; a sly looking black bird, in shape like a jay, and generally called the black witch, abounds in the 2 M 14 SANTA CRUZ. hedges ; quails and minute doves are numerous ; and a small species of bittern is often seen floating along over the lower grounds of the island. Lastly, the brown pelicans, on the sea coast, flopping lazily over the waters, and ever and anon diving for their prey, are as numerous as gulls on the coast of Great Britain. It may be well to observe that the southern part of Santa Cruz is an extensive plain, I believe of shell- limestone formation. The highlands, composed of an indu- rated clay, conspicuously stratified, and tossed into various angles by some vast impulse from below, form the northern barrier ; and very beautiful is their undulation. The loftiest of these hills is Mount Eagle, which rises 1200 feet above the level of the sea. An hour's ride, from West-End, brings you to the top of Prospect or Bodkin Hill, from which there is a mag- nificent bird's eye view both of the hills and plains, all, with little exception, under careful sugar cultivation. But it is 6n the sea shores of Santa Cruz that the American or English visiter will probably find his greatest amusement. The large blushing conks and other shells which strew the beach, the corals, madrepores, sea- fans, and sponges of many definite and curious shapes, not to mention the " soldier crabs," dressed in regimentals of purple and scarlet, and inhabiting every empty shell they C£in find, cannot fail to attract the attention of the lovers of nature, even when, like myself, they have little pre- tensions to science. Yet, it must be confessed, that all these rarities are nothing in comparison with the fishes. The fish market at West-End is held under some cocoa-nut trees, on the shore, a little before noon, every day. To watch the arrival of the boats, on these occasions, and to examine the live fish, before they are taken out, or afteT they are laid on the grass, under the shade, is a source of almost endless amusement. The variety of the kinds, and the brightness of their colors, are truly surprising. 1 know only their vulgar names, and vulgar indeed they are ; but I cannot do justice to my theme without specifying the ^rww/, striped with alternate lines of yel- low and purple ; the goat^ pink and silver j the doctor ^ of bur- SANTA CRUZ. 16 riished copper ; the Welshman^ pink with yellow stripes ; the hind^ white with red and brown spots ; the rock-hind^ green with brown spots ; the farrot^ dark brown, blue and yellow ; tiie silk-fish, of a bright pink ; the hlare-eye, pink with a pro- digious white eye ; the Spanish hog, bright yellow and brown ; the angel of the finest gold and purple ; to which list might be added a multitude of others. These fishes are generally from one to two pounds in weight, and with others of a larger dimension, but not so splendid, are generally good for the table, — no small resource even for the poorer inhabitants of Santa Cruz. Our friend, Dr. Griffith, an able naturalist from the United States, who was with us on the island, was very suc- cessful in preserving these gaudy creatures, without destroying their color. I understand that he has since presented his col- lection to one of the scientific institutions in Philadelphia. The town of Bassin or Christiansted is much larger than West-End, well built and agreeable, with a good harbor for shipping, within the reef or bar. The Government House is handsome and commodious ; the hills near the town lofty and picturesque ; and the views from them of the port below, the sea coast, and fine tracts of country, both to the east and west, amply repay the labor of the ascent. The same may be said of Bulow Minda, the Governor's country seat, a handsome place, on a high hill about two miles west of Bassin. There, fine pros- pects, and pure, cool, air may be enjoyed in abundance. West End, however, from its numerous excellent boarding-houses, and the pleasant rides in the neighborhood, is the better place for invalids. The thermometer ranged during our stay there from 7b to 80, with little variation at night. The hot sun must be avoided during the day ; but during the early morn- ings and evenings, the weather and country air, are, in general, delightful. No man need require a more wholesome or agreeable diet than is afforded by the fish, the sweet pork and mutton, the ed- ible vegetables, and the fmits, of Santa Cruz. The yams, when in perfection, are a good substitute for a mealy potatoe ; the 16 SANTA CRUZ. ripe plantains and bananas, especially the latter, are excellent fruits, and, when fried, are among the nicest of vegetables ; the oranges are delicious, and the shadocks and forbidden fruit, when of the best kind afJd fully ripe, are not less so. To these may be added the sour-sop, sugar-apple, sappedilla, bell-apple, pomme de Cythere, star-apple, and above all the mango. This last, when of an inferior kind, has the taste of turpentine ; but the better sorts have somewhat the flavor of a peach, and are very luscious. This description applies with variations, to the other West India islands. Nature has done wonders for them. Our friend. Dr. Stedman, who has been practising for fifty years on the island, as a physician, sent us a present of the bread fruit. It is round, of the size of a cocoa-nut, and covered with a green rind, divided into hexagons, like the honeycomb. We were directed to keep it for a day or two, then to bake it, and lastly to cut it in slices, to be toasted for breakfast. We found it a sweet, agreeable, farinaceous food, probably the best substitute for bread that has yet been discovered. The sugar crop was now commencing on several of the estates, and we visited the property of our friend, Adam Ste- venson, of North-End, to witness the process of sugar mak- ing. When there is wind enough to turn the mill, the canes (already conveyed to it on asses or mules) are forced be- tween two almost contiguous iron cylinders, kept in constant rotatory motion. The liquor thus pressed out, is conveyed by a long wooden pipe, down the hill to the boiling house. It is there received by a lai^e vessel called the clarifier, and thence it passes through a succession of boilers, subjected to different degrees of heat. First it is converted into syrup ; next into the thicker fluid called sling. The sling is conveyed by troughs into the graining pans, where it granulates, and assumes the form of sugar mixed with molasses. It is then transferred to the hogsheads, from which the molasses gradually drain into receivers placed below ; and, finally, the sugar is left dry and pure, ready for exportation. The sugar of Sauta Cruz;, is SANTA CRUZ. 17 generally of a fine grain, and light and delicate color, — much more so than that produced by moister and more luxuriant soils. Every part of this valuable plant is applied to some use. The leaves form excellent fodder for pigs and cattle ; the refuse cane, after the juice has been pressed out, receives the name of trashy and is carefully stacked, under cover, for the purpose of fuel. It is a circumstance much to be lamented, that the distillery is an almost unvarying appendage to the boiling-house, and every two hogsheads of sugar are accompanied by at least one puncheon of rum. The new rum of the West Indies is a tempting, but most unhealtliy, liquor, and has, doubtless, caused an unnumbered multitude of untimely deaths. Our friend Stevenson drinks only water, and with an honest consistency, manufactures no rum. The " scummings" of the sugar-li- quor, from which (with a mixture of molasses) the rum is usually distilled, are, on his estate, pumped back into the clarifier, and converted into sugar, as excellent as any that he makes. He is confident that this change of system is econo- mical and profitable ; and greatly is it to be desired that his example may be followed throughout the West Indies, The exports of sugar from Santa Cruz, in 1839, were 19,428 hogsheads, of 1300 lbs. each. In some former years, the produce has been upwards of 30,000. While, on the one hand, this island derives vast advantage from the watchful skill and care of a respectable body of resident proprietors, there can be no doubt that the dead weight of the slaves is severely felt, — that many of the estates have passed from the hands of the original owners into those of the manr^ers, — that many others are heavily mortgaged, — and that the land for several years past, has been under a process of gradual exhaustion. The emancipation of the property of this island from its burdens, and the restoration of its soil, is reserved, as I believe, for the annals of freedom. I understand that the slaves form about four-fifths of the population, and are in number about 19,000. Time was, when 2* 18 SANTA CRUZ. Ae treatment to which they were exposed, was harsh and severe; and then their numbers were constantly declining. Of late years, however, the Danish government has instituted various restrictions which have ameliorated the condition of the slaves. They are not allowed, as I understand, to be worked longer in the day, than from 6 o'clock in the morning, to the same hour in the evening, with intervals (not always long enough) for breakfast and dinner. Legal provisions are made respecting food and clothing. The driver in the field is not permitted to carry any more terrible instrument than a tamarind switch of moderate size ; and twelve lashes with the rope, and a short period of solitary confinement, (mostly, I believe, in a light room,) are the extent of punishment which even the manager or master is permitted to inflict. This rope, however, is a dangerous instrument of torture ; and I am told that the reduction of the allowed number of lashes, from thirty to twelve, is no matter of law, but the simple result of the imperative benevolence of the governor-general, Von Scholten. Any negro has a right to buy his own freedom ; and^ in case of need, the price is settled by a public appraiser. The con- sequence of these benevolent provisions is, that the condition of the slaves is improved, and their number is now kept up, with a very small increase. But although slavery in the Danish islands, has undoubtedly assumed a mild form, the degradation which it occasions — the low physical, intellectual, and moral, condition of the slaves, as compared with that of the liberated negroes of the British islands — is obvious and unquestionable. The worst feature of the system is the " Sunday market," as it is called. The slaves are allowed no one of the working days of the week for their own business. The consequence is, that multitudes of them throng from the coimtry (often from a great distance) into the towns of Bassin and West End, on the First-day of the week, with their provisions and fruits for sale. The rum shops are hard by the market places. The buyers, of course, misuse the day as well as the sellers ; and the scene is one, not only of busy traffic, SANTA CRUZ. 19 but of noisy merriment, idleness, and dissipation. Before we left Santa Cruz, we called on General Sbbdtker, the present Governor of the island, to take our leave ; and we ventured to press this subject on his consideration, not without some remarks on slavery in general. He listened to us in a very obliging manner, and seemed to look forward to better days ; but his last words to us, as we went down his steps from his door, were, ^^ Patience^ patience, 'patience.^'' It was very satisfactory to us, to learn from our friend Cap- tain Van Scholten, the brother of the Governor General (then in Denmark) that a commission had been appointed at Copenha- gen, to enquire into the state of these colonies, with a view to emancipation. In the mean time seven large buildings have been erected in different parts of the island, to serve as chapels and schools, [for the religious and literary instruction of the Negro population. They are not yet in use ; but several of the planters are mailing laudable exertions for the education of their slaves, in reading, and in a knowledge of the Holy Scrip- tures. A colored person of the name of Macfarlane, in every way adapted for the office, is employed for the purpose ; this school circulates, with excellent effect, from one estate to another. Having been taught their moral and religious obliga- tions, the negroes, on these estates, are already greatly improved, and are much more useful to their masters, than in the days of their ignorance. The schools held, on the First-day of the week, under the care of the members of the Episcopal church, at Bassin and West-End, are attended by several hundreds of black, mulatto, and white, children. Some of the planters and their wives, are united with colored persons and others, as instructers in these schools ; and the blessed work is carried on, both among the teachers, and the taught, without prejudice of cast, or distinction of color. I cannot conclude this letter without observing,that the society in Santa Cruz, is remarkably agreeable ; and nothing could ex- ceed the kindness and hospitality which we received at the 20 SANTA CRUZ. hands of many of the resident proprietors. No denominations of Christians, besides the Danish Lutheran church, are there tolerated by law, except the Moravians, Roman Catholics, and Church of England ; but by the special leave of the Govern- ment, we held public meetings for worship in both the towns, before we left the island. These were largely attended by per- sons of various colors, and conditions, and afforded an opportu- nity for the free promulgation of those essential principles of Christianity, which lie at the root of pure virtue, and perma- nent happiness. It is to be hoped that civil and religious freedom, without ob- struction or distinction, will ere long exert its genial sway over the Danish Colonies. "When such is the case, this delight- ful island, so remarkable for its even climate, and other natural advantages, may reasonably be expected to become as pleasant and desirable a residence as can any where be found. Even as matters now stand, we left Santa Cruz, after a visit of nearly three weeks, with feelings of regret, as well as of gratitude and affection towards many of its inhabitants. But it is time once more to conclude. I am, &c., (fee. ^4^ ip,- w , ■ ■'>} LETTER III SAINT THOMAS AND TORTOLA. Flushing. L. 1. Sixth-month [June) Zd^ 1840. Mt deab FBiEia>, Having performed the religious duties which devolved upon us in Santa Cruz, we took a hearty leave of our numerous friends, and sailed for St. Thomas, which port we reached on the morning of the 26th of the Twelfth-month (December.) As you approach St. Thomas from the South, and enter the harbor, (the island and town having the same name) the scene presented to the view, is one of the most striking in the West Indies. The harbor is formed by a narrow inlet of the sea, and a land-locked bay within, remarkably commodious as a station for shipping. It is a free port of great business — a lit- tle emporium of traffic — and we observed, on our arrival, a vast number of vessels, lying in the harbor, of various sizes, and belonging to different nations. On the left of the entrance, is a lofty round hill on which the fort is built ; and on two ele- vated spots to the right, are seen, the remains of fortresses, once the strong holds of the Buccaneers, who, in days of yore, infested the Virgin islands. The town is neatly built on three hills, running in a parallel line at the northern, or inland, extremity of the bay ; and these are surmounted by picturesque conical mountains ; composed, (I believe) of primitive rock, and covered with brushwood. One would have supposed that when once a vessel has entered this harbor, it must needs be in perfect security ; but this is far from being always the case. During the fearful hurricane which visited St. Thomas, in the eighth month of 1837, one hundred and seventy vessels in the bay, were, as I am informed, driven ashore. The loss of life and property, on that afficting occasion, was very considerable. t*y-,.- 22 ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. 41 We were kindly welcomed, on our landing, by some friends of ours, who have a temporary residence in the place, and were provided with good accommodation at a large boarding house, much frequented by the merchants of the town. The approach of a great ball, about to be given in the house, soon drove us into a more secluded abode ; but quiet was not then to be found in St. Thomas. It was the negro Saturnalia, the slaves being allowed a perfect liberty, from " Christmas" to New Year's day, to drum, fiddle, dance, and sing, to the utmost ex- tent of their wishes. The evil genius of slavery seemed now to have assumed the form of a merry-andrew, and we thought that the dissipation could not fail to be as unprofitable to the negroes, as the din was disagreeable to ourselves. However, we dared not judge them — we knew it was their only holyday. This island, is at once picturesque and barren. The few sugar estates which it contains are of an inferior description, and almost the whole population, amounting, as we understood, to about 11 ,.000, are concentrated in the town. Populous as is the town, it contains only one Protestant place of worship — of very moderate size — used on the First-day of the week, by the Danish Lutheran, and Dutch Reform churches, in succession. By the kind permission of the Dutch Reform pastor, and with the consent of the Governor, Major Oxholtn, we held in this building, our public meeting for worship. The respectability and attention of the congregation, afforded us an evidence, that even in St. Thomas, there are more than a few persons, who think and feel seriously on matters of the highest importance. But we greatly fear that among the traffickers of many nations, and the confusion of many tongues, in this little Western Tyre, the pursuits of religion are generally forgotten. Merchandise by day, and gaiety by night, seemed chiefly to engross the atten- tion of the residents. Nor could we hear any favorable ac- counts of the moral condition of the black and colored popula- tion. There are but few married couples among them — loose and low habits appear ta be general. No one can aver that ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. 23 slavery, in St. Thomas, is attended by any one advantage, tem- poral, civil, moral or spiritual. We called one evening at the Moravian establishment which lies about two miles to the westward of the town, and exchanged kind looks with the German brother with whom we were unable to converse, in his own language. The religious influence of the Moravians, in the Danish islands, although to a certain extent decidedly beneficial, is considerably diminished by two circumstances ; first, by their practice of preaching and teaching in the Negro-Dutch, a barbarous jargon, now but little spoken by the people ; and secondly, by their holding slaves as part of the mission properties. It is greatly to be regretted that the local Danish government in both islands, is at present greatly prejudiced against the Methodists. To be a Methodist, seems to be tantamount to being absolutely excluded from the Danish •colonies. The success which these Christians have met with, both among the slaves in your southern States, and among the liberated negroes in the British West Indies, affords a plain proo^ that they might be admitted with entire safety to the government, and with the most important benefit to the mass of the population. The worst charge which can be made against St. Thomas, has relation to the Slave Trade. The Spanish and Portuguese slave vessels, frequently come to this port to be fitted up for their nefarious adventures on the coast of Africa ; here they have free ingress and egress, without the smallest interruption from the Danish men-of-war on the station ; and on some occasions, they have actually received their supplies of gunpowder, from the fort itself. Why should not the treaties TDetween Great Britain and Denmark, on the subject of the Slave Trade, be followed up by an honest and vigorous co-operation ? In a Christain and even Protestant government, (as it professes to be) such connivances are extremely disgraceful ; but it may be hoped, that the present rulers of Denmark, will bring them to a speedy termination. It is refreshing to turn from the obliquity and corruption of men, to the charms of scenery, and the rarities of nature. ^ ST. THOMAS AND TORTOtA. Both these are to be found in St. Thomas. Kindly provided hy our friends with horses, we occupied some of our early mornings, in scaling the hills in several directions ; and the views which we obtained of the harbor, the town, and the shipping, under various aspects, with the wild country around them, were enchanting. From the top of the heights, to the north of the town, the sea, with its numerous inlets and rocky keys, is visible on both sides ; and a ride of a few miles to the eastward, brings you suddenly to a near view of St. John's, Tortola, Jose Vandyk, and other picturesque islands, with wooded mountains in the foreground, and ocean rolling be- tween. But perhaps the greatest object of curiosity, in this island, is a prodigious specimen of the Bvmhax JSeva, or silk cotton tree, which grows about two miles to the westward of the town. This tree which bears a light foliage and pods full of a silky cotton, (suitable, we are told, for the manufacture of hats) loses its leaves once in the year. In the present instance, it was quite bare — its trunk about fifty feet in circumference, of a contorted shape, with high, thin, battlements or projections — its vast branches, spreading to a great distance, at right angles with the trunk, and shooting out others nearly at right angles with themselves — some parts of it encumbered with enormous knots. This tree is of African descent ; the specimen now described, may fairly be called a vegetable monster. On the last day of the year, we embarked on board the brig- antine, Eclipse, of Trinidad, Captain Aarestrup, which we had hired for a cruise among the islands to the windward, and having taken an affectionate leave of the friends who " accom- panied us to the ship," set sail for Tortola. The distance between the two islands is small ; but our voyage was slow and boisterous ; and after passing along the highly picturesque coast of Sti John's — another Danish island, much more cultivated than St. Thomas — we were overtaken by the night, before we could make the passage between its eastern extremity and Norman's island, which leads to Tortola. A night of discomfort and sea siclaiess was however amply repaid ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. 25 by a safe entrance the next morning, between fine rocks and mountains, into our desired harbor. A skilful negro sailor, whom we picked up at St. Thomas, piloted us along a some- what difficult course, to Roadstown, in Tortola. The island as we approached it, presented a highly interesting appearance ; its mountains peaked and picturesque ; and the plains below, clad with sugar cane. With some difficulty we found board and lodging at a tavern close by the sea, kept by a singular, colored old lady, named McCIaverty. Her rooms had been occupied up to that day, by some of her relatives who had been dangerously ill with fever, and the children of thb family were creeping about the house, in a most emaciated condition. No alternative offered, but to take the apartments ; we were assured that there was no danger, and we happily escaped without the least infection. The constant draughts of a delicious easterly breeze sweeping through the house, were indeed sufficient to prevent it ; and that we were not in the way of starvation, was evident,. from the sight which caught our eye, of a number of green turtles in a small reservoir of sea water, before the door of the tavern. These animals abound among the rocks and keys of the Virgin islands, and are common fare at the tables of the gentry. We could not but feel on intense interest in making our first visit to a British island, peopled with emancipated negroes. Out of a population of nearly five thousand, there are scarcely more than two hundred white persons ; but we heard of no inconveniences arising from this disparity. We had letters to Dr. Dyott, the Stipendiary Magistrate, and to some of the principal planters, who greeted us with a warm welcome, and soon relieved us from our very natural anxiety, by assuring us that freedom was working well in Tortola. One of our first visits was to a school for black children, under the care of Alexander Bott, the pious minister of the Parish church. It was in good order — the children answered our questions well. We then proceeded to the jail ; in which, if my memory serves me right, we found only one prisoner, with the jailor, and the 3 26 ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. judge ! Our kind friend Francis Spencer Wigley, the Chief Justice of the British Virgin Islands, happened to be there, and cheered us with the information, that crime had vastly decreased since the period of full emancipation. I looked over the list of commitments to the jail, which, for the most part, are summary, for petty offences ; and observed that in the last six months of 1837, the number committed was one hundred and eighty-six, and in the last six months of 1839, only seventy-five, making a difference of one hundred and eleven in favor of freedom. With regard to heavier offences, the three preceding courts of session, (embracing a period of nine months,) were occasions of perfect leisure — ^not a single criminal indictment at any of them. In the afternoon, we presented one of our letters to William R. Isaacs, a most respectable old gentleman, who was once Presi- dent of the Island. He was confined to his bed with a sprained ancle, and kindly allowed me the use of his excellent riding- horse, during our stay at Roadstown. He is himself a con- siderable proprietor, and was then acting as attorney to Reid, Irving & Co., of London, owners, by mortgage tenure, of a large part of the island. In these two capacities, our elderly friend had fifteen hundred free negroes under his care ; and since all his habits had long been associated with the old system, we could not but regard his testimony as of peculiar value. He speedily informed us, of his own accord, that his laborers were working well. " I have," said he, " no complaint to make." The fact that so large a proportion of the island had passed out of the hands of the proprietors, into those of the merchant and money lender, was a conclusive evidence against slavery. With this evidence \^e could noxv contrast the happy testimony of our friend, in favor of freedom. The next morning we mounted our horses at an early hour, and in company with Dr. Dyott, and R. V. Shew, an influen- tial planter, visited President Isaac's principal property. I ob- served a large company of negroes, male and female, at work on the brow of a lofty hill. I rode up to them, in company ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. 27 with the ovei-seer, and found them heartily at work. They were engaged in the laborious occupation of holing — i. e. dig- ging holes with the hoe, for the reception of the canes ; and protecting each hole (as was necessary on that steep declivity) with a firm embankment. Those who best understood the subject, freely acknowledged that their work was excellent. We afterwards witnessed similar scenes, and received accounts equally satisfactory, on the sugar plantations belonging to R. V. Shew, and Judge Wigley. The wages of these laborers are small, only sixpence sterling per day, with a trifling in- crease during crop time ; but I was assured that the privile- ges which they enjoy, of a cottage, with good provision grounds, rent free, and plenty of pasture for their stock, at least double the amount of their wages. The present condition of the planters in Tortola is not very favorable, from long continued droughts, and a consequent short crop ; but I hope that more prosperous seasons will soon lead to an increase of wages. This is obviously the best method of preventing the migration of the peasantry to Trinidad, to which colony many of them have been lured by emissaries sent out for the purpose — under the hope of larger returns for their labor. In the mean time 1 am quite willing to acknowledge, that the laborers of Tortola appeared to us to be in a condition of considerable ease and comfort. Among the vegetables which they cultivate in their provision, grounds, we observed the pigeon pea, a shrub which grows here in great quantities and produces a nutritious pea for the table : also the cassava. It has been remarked, that a piece of ground cultivated with this root, will produce more food, for man, than under any other cultivation whatever. It is a singu- lar circumstance that its juice is a deadly poison, but after this has been pressed out, the farinaceous substance which remains, is made into an excellent thin bread, like the Scotch oat-cake in appearance, but more agreeable to the palate. After regaling ourselves with a plentiful breakfast at Judge Wigley's pleasant residence on the top of a lofty hill, we pur- 28 ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. sued our course through scenery of uncommon beauty — in parts almost of a Swiss character. From a mountain called Chateau Belair, we obtained a view, at once, of almost all the islands of the Virgin group, with their satellites or keys. They are very numerous, and mostly rise very boldly from the sea. The principal of them are St. Johns, St. Thomas, Tortola, Jose Vandyk, Norman's, Ginger, Peter's, Goodman's, Beef and Guana islands (the latter remarkable for the Guana lizards) and Virgin Gorda or Spanish town. The scene was magnif- icent. There are no roads, on this island, for carriages — only rocky and precipitous mountain paths, for journeys on horse- back or foot. The wild flowers are still more beautiful here than in Santa Cruz. The great aloe, called the century plant, abounds, and has a very picturesque appearance, and there are many prodigious plants of the cactus tribe. Pink, purple, red, and yellow convolvoluses, are seen creeping about in all directions ; and the splendid " pride of Barbadoes" is common. The white jasmine occurs in the hedges, and a small tree called the Panchwpan, bears profiise branches of large white flowers of fragrant jasmine odor. 1'he brown pelicans float about the coast in great numbers, and we were told that the neighboring low island of Anegada is frequented by the flamingo. At the distance of many hundred yards, when on the brow of a lofty hill, we distinctly saw a shark playing among the waves — an evidence of the remarkable clearness both of the air and water. Many of the hills are covered with luxuriant " guinea grass," and aflbrd excellent pasture for cattle, sheep and goats. A large proportion of these animals belong to the negroes. The cows are sleek and beautiful, and the milk excellent. Another day was spent in a boat excursion, to the Western extremity of the island, in order to visit some of the estates under the care of our friend Isaac Thomas, another of the principal attorneys on the island. In the course of our voy- age, the sailors caught some fish so curiously striped and spot- ted, as to receive the name of " lizaid" fish — and on landing, we observed the shore strewn with handsome specimens of the ST. THOMAS AND TORTOLA. 29 echinus, or sea egg. "We found the sugar plantations under the care of our friend, in fair order. He employs two hun- dred and fifty free negroes, and assured us that " he had not the slightest complaint to make respecting them." On the exam- ination of the accounts of two of the properties, it appeared that he was decidedly saving money, by the substitution of free labor, on moderate wages, for the dead weight of slavery. Af- ter partaking, with several other persons, of this gentleman's abundant hospitality, he accompanied us to Windy Hill, the seat of the President, Hay Drummond Hay, an agreeable and sensible young man, who received us with great politeness. Our friends had now once more provided us with horses ; and a long ride, by rocky paths, over steep mountains, brought us home to Roadstown, in safety^ — but not until after sunset. Tortola was once the seat of a little society of Friends, and one of our most eminent travelling ministers of former days, Thomas Chalkley, found there a field of labor, and a grave. There are no members of the Society now on the island, but there is a small conynunity of black people, settled, as tenants in common, on an estate once belonging to Samuel and Mary Nottingham, quakers of high character. About sixty years ago, they -liberated their slaves, from conscientious motives, and gave them their estate, at Longlook, on the eastern coast. A letter of christian advice addressed to their predecessors by these pious persons, then living at Bristol, is still cherished by the negroes on the property, about sixty in number, and held as a sort of title deed to the estate. We had great pleasure in visiting them. Their land is on the brow of a mountain, and a considerable part of it is well cultivated with yams, and other vegetables. We held a religious meeting with them, in the largest of their cottages, and were entirely satisfied with their respectable ap- pearance, and orderly behavior. Our concluding day at Tortola, was the first of the week. We had appointed a public meeting for worship for the morning, in the Methodist meeting house. The excellent missionaries then stationed there, Bates and Stepney, being kindly willing 3* 30 ST. THOMAS AND TORl'OLA. to make way for us. So effectual have been the labors of these missionaries and their precursors, among the liberated negroes, that they now number nearly 2000 members of their church, besides attenders — more than a third of the whole population 1 The attendance of the laboring people, on the present occasion, was large ] they were dressed with the greatest neatness, chiefly in white clothing, which forms a contrast with their sable hue, pleasing to the eye of a stranger, and peculiarly agreeable ta their own taste. Without a word being said to them on the sub- ject, they sat for a considerable time in solemn silence — a prac- tice to which they had never been accustomed — and afterwards listened to the discourse addressed to them, with eager and de" vout attention. The occasion was one of deep interest to our- selves, and we could not avoid perceiving, that freedom was working well as a handmaid to religion. /* In the afternoon we crossed the water on a visit to the African settlement, at Kingstown bay. It consists of several hundred Africans, taken out of captured slave ships, and located on a tract of land, allotted them by order of the British Government. We had heard reports of their poverty and idleness ; but these were belied by their decent and respectable appearance. A church is now in course of building for their use, under the orders of the Bishop of Barbadoes ; and a school has been already formed for the education of their children. About three hundred of them assembled, under the shade of a large tamarind tree, and it has seldom fallen to my lot to address a more feeling, or apparently more intelligent, congregation. One thing is clear and unquestionable — ^that the African mind is abundantly susceptible of instruction in the great doctrines and principles of the Christian religion. I am, (kc, &c., LETTER IV. SAINT CHRISTOPHER'S. Flushing.^ L. 1. Sixth-month {June) Ath, 1840. My dear Friend, A dead beat to the windward with a rough sea, and on board a small vessel, is certainly no luxury, but such are the incon- veniences to which one is very apt to be exposed, during a cruise among the West India Islands. After beating along the coast of Tortola for some hours, we made for the open sea, by the Round-rock passage, and after a night of comfortless toss- ing, found ourselves next morning, within sight of Saba. The lofty peaks of that island are very handsome — its appearance being that of a single mountain, rising precipitously from the sea. It belongs to the Dutch ; and the community of small proprietors who dwell there, are said to be a little world to them- selves, depending very little on any distant government, but supporting themselves by their own industry, in boat-building, fishing, &c. Our headwind, after a time, was exchanged for a calm, than which scarcely any state of the ocean is less agreea- ble to the mariner. The rudder no longer acts ; exertion of every kind is fruitless ; the sails flutter ; the vessel rolls, but makes no progress, and one feels oneself to be imprisoned on the waters, beyond the reach of all human help. On the present occasion we consoled ourselves by endeavoring to describe our misfortune — " a calm at sea." In vain the mast is reared on high, In vain the sails are spread, Our bark refuses now to fly, Or even creep ahead. 32 ST. Christopher's. From side to side she still can roll, And bid old Ocean bubble, B.ut lost her rudder's firm control, Useless her seamen's trouble. Patience grown sullen, drops her wing, ' And senseless Contemplation, Of every brighter, better thing Seems to usurp the station. But let me for the mind propose A worthier employment, That as each tardy minute flows, May minister enjoyment. Draw from the circumstance and scene, A lesson worth the learning. For so, ye best may prove, I ween. Your gift of true discerning. , The ship of science, sails of art, And rudder of man's reason. Play but a miserable part, Without heaven's breeze in season. Vain are the puny powers of man, And vain his restless action — Only the good old gospel plan Can yield us satisfaction. But grace resisted, all is death, E'en where the gospel's given ; Only the Spirit's vital breath. Can waft the soul to heaven. This is a scene, and these are verses, which might be better fitted for a page in Pilgrim's Progress — nevertheless the senti- ments here expressed are true. As we passed along on our voyage, our bait was taken by a noble dolphin — one of the handsomest creatures I have seen — bright azure, with dark spots above, and white below. We caught a good view of him as sailor Sam, our intelligent negro, was drawing him out of the water ; when he gave himself a cuiming twist, and escaped. At another time, our fisherman pulled up a baracoota, a noble fish, of the appearance of a pike, and when grown to its full size, as voracious and dangerous as a shark. Fresh fish for dinner was a luxury which we enjoyed on the occasion ; but for my own, part I paid dearly for our entertainment, which was the probable cause of an indisposition of three weeks' continu- ance, and not to be controled by medicine. I afterwards found that these creatures are often poisonous, a circumstance ascribed to their feeding on some of the copper-banks, below the waters, which are said to be frequent among some of these islands. During the course of this voyage, we were within sight at once, of several islands, Saba, already described ; Anguilla, a small island, deriving its name, I presume, from its snake-like appearance ; St. Martin's, St. Bartholomew, St. Eustatia, and in the distance, St. Christopher's. We were sorry to learn, that Anguilla is not in so prosperous a condition as many of the neighboring British islands. How it fares with the laborers, I know not ; but as it is a poor island, it is probable that many of them have been induced to quit it, under the inducement of higher wages in other colonies. With regard to the white inhabitants, we were told that they had expended their compen- sation money somewhat too easily, and were reduced to a state of no small poverty and distress. I believe there is some view entertained of converting it into a penal settlement. St. Martin's, belonging partly to the French and partly to the Dutch, and St. Bart's, a Swedish island, once a place of much resort as a free port, but now little frequented, present to the eye, as one passes by, a picturesque outline. This remark, however, applies with greater force to St. Eustatia, which rises to a gi*eat height, and has all the appearance of an extinct volcano. I am told that it is so, in fact : the plain at the bottom of the mountain, of small extent, appeared, in the distant view, to be green with sugar cultivation. The approach to St. Christopher's from the north west, is highly interesting. The northern part of the island is moun- tainous and clothed with forest ; and as we drew near to the coast, it was delightful to observe the brows of the hills and plains below, bright and verdant with the sugar cane — the settlements of the planters looking neat and prosperous — some ^' ST. CXHRISTOPHER^S. of the wind-mills turning— companies of negroes seen, in the- distance, at work in the fields-^neat places of worship visible — and height large vessels, with other smaller ones, in the harbor of Basse-terre, waiting, as we presumed, for their cargoes of sugar. A more remarkable prima-facie- evidence of prosperity, I have seldom witnessed. This evidence we afterwards found to be fully confirmed. ^ On our arrival at Basse-terre — a low, hot and dusty little *' to^vn — we met with aio small disappointment in the absence of the Lieutenant Governor, Charles Thornton Cunningham, a young friend and connection of mine, whom we were very desirous of visiting. He was gone to Antigua, on an official visit to Sir William Colebrooke, the Governor General of the Leeward islands. No suitable accommodation was to be obtain- ed at the taverns, and with the kind invitation of the President of the Council, W. H. Crook, and of J. T. Pedder, the Gover- nor's Secretary, we took possession for. a short sejour, of the government house, a commodious airy building, at a short dis- tance from the town. There we found kind attentions and agreeable accommodations, and were glad to be even so far out of the way of an epidemic fever, occasioned probably by the malaria of a salt marsh to the windward, which was then raging injthe town — considerable numbers dying daily. Early the next morning, I mounted one of the Governor's horses, and enjoyed a solitary ride in the country. Although it' was the seventh day of th€ week, usually applied by the eman- cipated laborers, to their private purposes, I observed many of them diligently at work on, the cane grounds, cutting the canes for the mill. Their aspect was that of physical vigor, and "Cheerful contentment, and all my questions as I passed along, were answered satisfactorily. On my way, I ventured to call at one of the estates, and found it was the home of Robert Clax- ton, the Solicitor General of the Colony, a gentleman of great intelligence and respectability. He was kind enough to impart a variety of useful, and in general, cheering, information. One fact mentioned by him, spoke volumes. Speaking of a small ST. Christopher's. 35 property on the island belonging to himself, he said, "Six years ago, (that is, shortly before the act of emancipation,) it was worth only £2,000, with the slaves upon it. Now, without a single slave, it is worth three times the money. I would not sell it for £6,000." This remarkable rise in the value of pro- perty, is by no means confined to particular estates. I was assured that, as compared with those tirries of depression and alarm which preceded the act of emancipation, it is at once general and very considerable. I asked the President Crook, and some other persons, whether there was a single indi- vidual on the island, who wished for the restoration of slavery. Answer, " Certainly not one." After breakfast I was joined by Our kind friend, Archi- bald Burt, a lawyer of eminence, who accompanied me on horseback for many miles, over lofty hills, to a village called Cayon, The view, from these hills, of the cultivated plains below, the town, the shipping, the sea, and the mountainous island of Nevis, in the distance, was grand and beautiful. The highlands of St. Christopher's are evidently worthy of a more diligent examination than it was possible for us to give them. They are clothed with a forest of hard wood, chiefly, I believe, a tree with laurel-like leaves, and large pink bell- formed blossoms, (of which I observed many specimens,) called on the island, the white cedar. These woods abound with monkeys, mischievous enough among the canes, but always too curming to be caught or shot. They regularly employ a sentinel in advance, who sets up a terrible screeching as soon as danger approaches. " Mount Misery," the loftiest in the island, is henceforth (the Lieutenant Governor afterwards assured us) to be called " Mount Liberty." It is an extinct volcano, 3,700 feet high ; the crater is 2,600 feet in depth ; the bottom of it is said to be a level of fifty acres, of which seven are covered with a lake, and the rest with grass and trees. Streams of hot water impregnated with sulphur, still issue from the fissures. Handsome wild flowers, and flowering shrubs, are common 36 ST. Christopher's. in St. Christophers, as well as Tortola ; especially large hedges of aloes. One of the most valuable productions of the island is the " Tous-les-mois," so called from the notion that it blossoms every month. It is a beautiful plant resembling the Canna Indica, and from its ix)ot is obtained a substance extremely similar, in appearance and taste, to arrow-root ; equally nutri- tious, and better suited to a delicate Stomach. This substance is gradually becoming an important article of export. As to the staple article of sugar,' we found the island in a condition of prosperity. It was supposed that the crop on the ground, which to us appeared heavy and luxuriant, would produce at least the usual average of 7,000 hogsheads ; and no difficulty whatever w^s apprehended in realising it. We accompanied our friend Burt to Ottley's, — a well managed sugar estate, be- longing to himself and Judge Wigley of Tortola, — where we again examined the process of sugar-making, and again saw the negroes diligently at work, on the day which they usually reserve for their own business. The day's wages, in this island, are from 7d. to 9d* sterling per day, besides the usual privileges ; but the negroes have no difficulty in earning from 2s. to 3s. sterling per day by job work. Under this system, particularly, they perform a far greater quantity of work in a given time, than could be ob- tained from them under slavery. " They will do an ivfinity of work," said one of my informants, ^^for wages J^ This state of things is accompanied by a vast increa;se in their own comforts. Our friend Cadman, the Methodist minis- ter, was on this station, during slavery, in the year 1826. He has now returned to it under freedom. " The change for the better," he observed, *' in the dress, demeanor, and welfare of the people, is prodigious,^^ The imports are vastly increased* The duties on them were £1,000 more in 1838, than in 1837; and in 1839, double those of 1838, within £150. This sur- prising increase is owing to the demand on the part of the free laborers, for imported goods, especially for articles of dress. The difficulty experienced by the gentry living in the town, in ^. I ST. Christopher's. 37 procuring fowls, eggs, &c., from the negroes, is considerably- increased. The reason is well known, — the laborers make use of them for home consumption. Marriage is now become frequent amongst them, and a profusion of eggs is expended on their wedding cakes ! Doubtless they will soon learn to ex- change these freaks of luxury, for the gradual acquisition of wealth. We had much pleasure in calling on the Moravian establish- ment at Cayon, under the care of Brother Miinzer. It seemed to be admirably conducted : he has three hundred children in his school. Another of their establishments, at Basse-terre, is equally prosperous. We visited the school there, and examined the children. Their answers to our questions, were lively and correct. Crime, and petty offences, are greatly diminished, since the date of full freedom. Education in useful knowledge, and religious instruction are rapidly advancing. There are nine churches on the island, under the Establishment ; six Methodist chapels, and three Moravian institutions. The Moravians have 3,000 members by birth and otherwise ; the Methodists 2,899 in church communion, besides attenders. These numbers in- clude a vast proportion of the population, which is calculated at 20,000. To the favorable account of this island, which our own ob- servation has thus enabled us to give, I will now add the testimony of the Lieut. Governor, received in a letter, after the lapse of three months from the date of our visit. "I have," says he, " just received the reports of the stipendiary magistrates, as to the general state of their respective districts on this island. I am thankful to say that they are, without ex- ception, most cheering and satisfactory. These reports will be transmitted home, and if similar reports are forwarded from the rest of the West Indies^ the friends of the negro must feel proud and grateful. I do not mean to say that individual proprietors and laborers do not occasionally complain of each other ; but certainly in the mass, the proprietors of this island evince a willingness to adopt conciliatory measures, and pay a fair re- 38 ST. Christopher's. munerative price for labor ; and the laborers are eager to work for fair wages." In a subsequent part of his letter he says, " A public dinner was given here a few days since, at which (won- derful to relate) white and colored men sat down together, cheek by jowl, in good humor and good fellowship." Our visit to St. Kitt's, like that to Tortola, ended with the first day of the week, during which we held large religious meetings in the Methodist and Moravian meeting houses. These were attended by persons of every color and condition, — chiefly black. The throng in the evening, notwithstanding the dan- ger of fever, was much too great to be accommodated in the house, but strict attention and good order nevertheless pre- vailed J and we parted from one another in the flowing of mutual good will. I can scarcely conclude without noticing an instance of that special providence, without which, not a sparrow falls to the ground. Disappointed as we were at not finding the Lieut. Governor at home, it wa.s owing to this circumstance that we continued only three days on the island. He has since been assured by the physicians, that had we prolonged our visit, even to the extent of a week, there would have been no proba- bility of our escaping the ravages of the fever. As it was, we left St. Christopher's in health and peace. I am, &c. &c. LETTER V. ANTIGUA. "WP Flushing, L, I. 6th Month, (June) 4th, 1840. My obab Fribmd. On the 13th of the First Month, (January,) we set sail from St. Kitt's for Antigua — another beat to the windward, which we accomphshed in two days. There is a passage for those who are acquainted with it, through the narrows, between St. Kitt's and Nevis, but our captain preferred the longer course round the latter island. This gave us the opportunity of taking a de- liberate view of its beautiful contour ; the concave circular line of its mountain towards the south, sweeps down grandly to the plain below, which appeared to be extensive and well cultivated. Being desirous of overtaking our friend Cunningham before he should leave Antigua, we could not visit either this island, or Montserrat, which with its extinct volcano and souffriere, soon appeared in view — tempting enough from its picturesque beauty. Here again we afterwards found occasion to recognize the hand of a kind and wise Providence, for dangerous fever was prevalent, at the time, on both these islands. In Montserrat, it was said to be occasioned by an animal compost imported from Europe, and imprudently used for manure. Although we were not able to visit these islands, we were afterwards furnished with satisfactory accounts from both of them, of the deportment and condition of the peasantry. The report of the stipendiary magistrate of Nevis, to the Governor General, for the half year ending with the Eleventh month, (November,) 1839, states, " that the conduct of the laborers was peaceable and orderly, and that a good understanding generally prevailed between them 40 ANTIGUA. and their employers — that schools are numerous and well at- tended, marriages frequent, and the Sabbath well observed." The following report from H. Hamilton, the President of Montserrat,- to Sir Wm. Colebrooke, dated "January 10th, 1840," seems to be every thing that either the politician or phi- lanthropist could desire. "It affords me great satisfaction to report to your Excellency, the orderly and good conduct of our laboring population. During the Christmas holy-days, our churches and chapels were crowded to excess by a well dressed peasantry, and our jail nearly untenanted. The laborers have all returned to their agricultural avocations with a degree of punctuality, which, I hope and trust, will insure the future pros- perity of the colony. The prospects for 1841, are very promis- ing. The laborers are settling theniselves down quietly and contentedly, abounding in provisions, and their growing crops in a high state of cultivation. I am happy to say that the dif- ferences and jealousies which existed between the parties are wearing away, and giving place to better feelings. Job-work is daily gaining ground. The system of weekly cash payments to the laborers, to the almost total exclusion of credit and barter, is now so completely established, and so punctually acted on, that a case of complaint rarely occurs, and the absence of a contract act is not felt at present." The stipendiary magistrate of the same island observes, " that repairs and additions to the real property in the town are going on ; that the value of land in the country is increased ; that an estate which was lately purchased for between five and six thousand pounds, (then considered a good sale,) would not now be parted with for £8000 ; that the amount of imports is much increased ; that marriages among the peasantry are numerous, schools improved and extended, and the progress in general morals satisfactory." These testimonies were confirmed by our friend John Cox Collins, the Rector of Montserrat, whom we afterwards met in Antigua. He informed us that the free-laborers there are work- ing well, and that the present crop was estimated at 1500 hogs- heads, being a high average. The negroes who attend his ANTIGUA. 41 church, insisted last year, on expressing, by some thank-offering) their gratitude to God for the blessings which they were enjoy- ing, under freedom ; they subscribed £15 15s to be expended in a silver goblet for the communion table ; and on the same ground, in the present year, they are again subscribing their money to supply the table with silver cups. The reefs near the coast of Antigua are numerous ; and as we lay to, on our approach to it during the night, we were ex- posed to some danger. Early in the morning, however, a pilot boarded us, and we made a safe entrance into the beautiful har- bor of St. John's. The appearance of this island, from the sea, although singular from the grotesque form of many of the rocky hills, is not so picturesque as that of St. Christopher's ; but the green and orderly-looking fields of cane, and the nume- rous vessels waiting, in the harbor, for sugar, a^ain afforded us a prima-facie evidence of prosperity. We cast anchor about noon below the fort, and were rowed a long distance in a boat to St. John's. This town is of considerable size, pleasant and airy, and greatly increased and improved since the date of freedom. We had heard much of the yellow fever here ; it had been for sometime prevalent with a decided type, but it was now gone by ; the last lingering case expiring soon eifter our arrival. Good rooms and sufficient entertainment awaited us at an hotel kept by a colored female named Appleby. Although I was in weak health during our stay, of two weeks, in Antigua, objects of interest, and opportunities for religious service, presented themselves in rapid succession. A few brief memoranda from our diary, will lead to some developement of the state of the colony. 1st Month, (January) 15th. "How are the laborers going on?" said I to the pilot who brought us into port. '• Beauti- fully," replied he — " eight estates which had been broken up under slavery, are now again in cultivation." This informa- tion was afterwards substantially confirmed. Only six of these estates, however, had been broken up, namely : Potter's, Dun- ning's, Jenning's, Patterson's, Tranquil Vale, and Hill-house ; 4* 42 ANTIGUA. the other two were stock farms — ^the whole eight are now un- ^er cultivation for sugar. It cannot be denied that the first fact of which we were informed respecting Antigua, speaks volumes. On our arrival, we called on William Walker, secretary to the Governor General, and stipendiary mEigistrate. He in- formed us that our friend Cunningham, and the Governor, were expected at St. John's, from Dow's Hill, (Sir William's country residence) the next morning. In answer to a few enquiries respecting the state of things, he informed us that the laborers were working well, for the low wages of from sixpence to nine- pence sterling per day, with the usual privileges ; but that they could earn two or three shillings sterling per day by job-work, which was becoming general ; and that the last year's crop of sugar was upwards of 20,000 hogsheads.' It also appears that the crop now on the ground, is one of excellent promise. We also visited our friend James Cox, the able and energetic Methodist Minister. " Things," said he " are prosperous ; the planters are doing well, the negroes are working well, and their comforts are greatly increased." He kindly offered to give up his service that evening, that we might hold a Friends' meeting in their large new meeting house. We accepted his offer — the meeting was well attended and satisfactory. The Methodists are very prosperous in Antigua; they have several stations, chapels, and schools, and nearly three thousand members of their church, besides attenders. 1st Month (Jan.) 16th. — On calling at the Government house^we found our friend Cunningham, with whomi exchanged the warm greetings of old friendship, and was glad to be able to tell him, that at St. Christopher's, during his absence, we had heard, from all parties, miequivocal accounts of his good government. He introduced us to Sir William Colebrooke, the Governor General, who received us with great kindness, and warmly invited us to his house. Sir William has occupied many successive stations in the British colonial service, and in various parts of the world. He is a person of much talent, information, and reflec- ANTIGUA. 43 tion ; steadfast and patient in the pursuit of the pubUc good, and of the utmost simpUcity of manners. He meets with a sort of pas- sive resistance from the local council and legislature ; but bears the opposition of his neighbors with an unruffled temper. One of his favorite plans is the union of all the leeward islands under one general legislature, which he considers to be their original constitution — a plan which at once recommends itself, as far more desirable than that of a great number of separate little par- liaments ; but in this attempt, he has hitherto been frustrated. Our company was now joined by Nathaniel Gilbert, an evan- gelical clergymEin of the church of England, and a large proprietor and planter on the island. Both he and Sir William, amply confirmed our previous favorable impressions respecting the state of the colony. On my. enquiring of them respecting the value of landed property, their joint answer was cleaj and decided. "At the lowest computation, the land, without a single slave upon it, is fully as valuable now, as it was,, inclu- ding all the slaves, before emancipation." In other words, the value of the slaves is already transferred to the land. Satisfac- tory as is this computation, I have every reason to believe that it is much below the mark. With respect to real property in the town of St. John's, it has risen in value, with still greater rapidity. A large number of new stores have been opened ; new houses are built or building ; the streets have been cleared and improved ; trade is greatly on the increase ; and the whole place wears the appearance of progressive wealth and prosper- ity. Under the guidance of our friend Cunningham, we next called on Robert Holberton, the Yicar of St. John's, a laborious and devoted minister, and examined his excellent infant school of black children, who gave us answers to our questions, (par- ticularly in Scripture history,) with surprising readiness and accuracy. The vicar then conducted us to the premises of the daily-meal society, where the destitute poor are fed with soup and other wholesome articles, and the sick and disabled, sup- 44 ANTIGUA. plied with lodging, boarding, and medical care. This admira- ble institution, which flourishes under his own superintendence, is supported partly by voluntary subscriptions, and partly by grants of the local legislature. We now proceeded to the state house, where we were introduced to several of the leading officials, and listened to a debate in the local legislature, which was then in session. A colored member was pleading with " honorable members" for the refunding of expenses incurred in making a certain road. The application was refused on the ground that " this house" could pay for no roads which did not lead to some sugar estate — an obvious relic of the old system. A drive of eight miles over a flat country, well cultivated, partly with provisions, and partly with sugar cane, brought us to " Gilberts" — the spacious old mansion, and one of the sugar estates, of our friend Nathaniel Gilbert, who with his pious and agreeable lady, freely offered us their house for a home, during any part of our stay on the island. Nothing could be more satisfactory than the state of the property. His moleisses alone, last year, paid the whole expenses of the estate, including labor ; the large produce of sugar, which had met with a high price in the British market, was therefore clear gain. Our -friend is too consistent a Christian, to manufacture rum. We understood that he received $25,000 as a compensation for his slaves. He assured us that this sum was a mere present put into his pocket — a gratuity on which he had no reasonable claim. Since his land, without the slaves, is at least of the same value as it was with the slaves, before emancipation, and since his profits are increased, rather than diminished, this con- sequence follows of course ; but what figures can represent the relief which he experiences in his own emancipation from the trammels of slaveholding ? Our friend has built a neat chapel on his estate, in which we held a religious meeting in the even- ing, with his black peasantry. The subject which arose before us, was the rest of heaven. The negroes listened with reve- rent attention, and after our meeting was finished, they broke ANTIGUA. 45 out, under the guidance of their beloved " mistress," into a sweet sounding hymn, which had reference to the same topic. Sir Bethel Codrington, an absentee proprietor, whose land borders on " Gilberts," is said to be deriving £20,000 sterling, per annum, from his sugar estates, in Antigua. Whether this statement is exaggerated or not, I cannot say ; but there can be no question, that his revenues, from this source, are very large. He was a noted advocate, during the late conflict for freedom, in our country, for the continuance of slavery. Circumstances have now proved, that emancipation to hini^ has been any- thing rather than the road to ruin. Nearly the same remark applies to a respectable member of parliament, whose property in Antigua, during slavery, was in decay — unprofitable and by all accounts, almost ruinous. Now it produces an excellent income. I had the pleasure of viewing his cane fields ; they were in fine order, full of pecuniary promise. • I understood from our friend Gilbert, that during slavery, half his people were operative, at one time, and half dead weight, i. e. doing nothing ; when freedom came, the rate of wages was so ar- ranged by the planters, that the amount paid to the working half, should just equal the expense formerly incurred in supporting the whole body. Thus twenty slaves, at £5 per head, per an- num, and ten free laborers at £10 per head, per annum, would amount to the same sum of £100. In that case the only sav- ing by the change would result from the circumstance, that each free laborer, under the inducement of wages, would do more work than a slave by coercion, especially when (as in the case of N. Gilbert) the coercion was gentle. But had our friend's operative portion of slaves, been only one- thirds instead of a half, and the number of his free laborers the same, his saving would have been 33^ per cent. Now a subsequent and some- what extensive enquiry has led us to the conviction, that on most of the properties of Antigua, and in general throughout the West Indies, one-third only of the slaves were operative. What with childhood, age, infirmity, sickness, sham sickness, 46 ANTIGUA. *^ and other causes, full two-thirds of the negro population, might be regarded as dead weight. And further, the number of free laborers employed for the same quantity of work, is now decidedly less than this third. We may therefore fairly reckon that the pecuniary saving, on many of the estates in Antigua, by the chemge of slave for free 4abor, is at least thirty per cent. If the interest of money on the investment in slaves, is added to the debit amount under slavery, the comparison becomes much more favorable on the sidie of freedom. Be- sides this affair of arithmetic, however, there is the general consideration, that slavery and waste, are twin sisters, whereas, freedom is married to economy. Under the generous stimulus of equal liberty, short methods of labor are invented, machin- ery is introduced, every man, black and white, is throwif upon his own exertions, and into the , whole community, co- operation infuses wealth. "All circumstances considered,'* says Dr. Nugent, the late speaker of the Assembly at Antigua, ^ " I am happy to say, that the free-labor system is the cheapest, and incalculably so on those properties which were incumbered by an unnecessary quantity of hands." . 1st Month (Jan.) 17th. — We had much satisfaction in visiting Newfield, a Moravian establishment — ^the missionary has a good school and large congregation. The same remark applies to their establishment at St. John's, which we inspected on a subsequent occasion. The Moravians have actually twelve thousand souls under their care in Antigua, one^third of the whole population. We are able to bear a clear and decisive testimony to their usefulness in the British Islands ; there it is impeded by no Negro- Dutch, and by no holding of their fellow men as property. At Newfield, we were met by Sir William Colebrooke's carriage, which conveyed us to Dow's Hill. As we passed along through a picturesque country, we observed a curious species of cactus, abounding on the road-side ; it is called the Turk's head — bearing a strange resemblance to the head of a man — the blossoms at the top, looking like a red cap or turban. '^ ^^. ANTIGUA. 47 The Governor's house is built on a hill, overlooking English Harbor, a snug inlet of the sea, very commodious for shipping, with a little town adjoining. From a still higher eminence near at hand, called Shirley Heights, the view of the harbor, and surrounding rocks and mountains, is one of unconmion interest and beauty. One object which we just descried in the distance, excited peculiar feelings. It was a small Baltimore clipper used in the slave trade, which some British cruiser had captured, under American colors. After the capture, she w£is sent to the United States, disowned by the American govern- ment, and finally brought into this harbor. When captured, she was only fitted up for the trade ; but had previously carried three hundred slaves across the ocean. By what cruel and 'Expert contrivance, so large a number of human beings had been stowed in so small a space, we were wholly unable to conjecture. The fact however was undeniable. Nothing could be more obliging than the welcome which we received from the Governor, and his lady and family. We soon formed an affectionate friendship with them ; our friend Cunningham, was of the company ; and in the evening, we held a religious meeting, in the saloon, with the family, their attendants, friends, and neighbors, white, brown and black. True liberality was evidently prevailing at Dow's Hill. 1st Month 18th. — We received a call from an intelligent lady of rank, who holds considerable property on this island. Her estate under slavery, was heavily mortgaged ; but under the genial influence of the new system, is now free, or nearly free, from its burdens. We are told that many such instances have occurred in Antigua. Returned invalided to " Gilberts." 1st Month 19th, First day of the week. — We had appointed a meeting at a country village called Parham. It was a morning of violent rain ; but about two hundred negroes braved the weather, and united with us in public worship. It is said that they are less willing to come out to their places of worship in the rain, than was the case formerly. The reason is curious. :C 48 lajNTIGUA. They now have shoes ayid stockings, which they are unwilling to expose to the mud. In the evening the weather was clear, and we met a con- gregation, computed to be two thousand in number, at the Methodist meeting-house in St. John's. It was an occasion of great solemnity, a large proportion of that respectable-looking assembly (for such it was) we afterwards found to have been composed of emancipated negroes. I trust it was not unsuit- ably, that we were reminded on the occasion, of the apostle's words, " Brethren, ye have been called unto liberty. Only use not your liberty for an occasion to the flesh, but in love serve one another." The next morning we visited the Mico normal school. One Lady Mico, some two hundred years ago, bequeathed a pro- perty, to be expended in ransoming Christian captives from the Moors. The property has now become large ; and under a late decree of the British Court of Chancery, the revenues arising from it, are appropriated to the purpose of scriptural ed- ucation — but without sectarian bias — in the West Indies. The school at St. John's, under this institution, is applied to the instruction not only of children, in reading, writing, &c., but of teachers, in the art of education. It is admirably conducted, and is likely to become extensively useful. It is a cheering circumstance of no small importance, that there are no less, as we were told, than seven thousand scholars in the various charity schools of Antigua. In all these schools the Bible is read and taught. Who can doubt the beneficial moral effect of these extensive efforts ? The moral improvement of the negro population is amply evinced by two facts — the increase of marriage, and the de- crease of crime. The vicar of St. John's, during the last seven years of slavery, married only one hundred and ten pairs of negroes. In the single year of freedom, 1839, the number of pairs mar- ried by him, was 185. ♦ K ANTIGUA. 49 With respect to crime — it has been rapidly diminishing' during the last few years. The numbers committed to the house of correction in 1837, — chiefly for petty offences, for- merly punished on the estates — were 850 ; in 1838 only 244 ; in 1839, 311. The number left in the prison at the close of 1837 was 147 ; at the close of 1839, only 35. Nor can it be doubted that the personal comforts of the laborers have been, in the mean time, vastly increased. The duties on imports in 1833, (the last year of slavery) were £13,576 ; in 1839, they were £24,650. This augmenta- tion has been occasioned by the importation of dry goods and other articles, for which a demand, entirely new, has arisen among the laboring population. The quantity of bread and meat, used as food by the laborers is surprisingly increased. Their wedding-cakes and dinners are extravagant, even to the point, at times, of drinking champagne ! In connection with every congregation in the island, whether of the Church of England, or among the Dissenters, has been formed a friendly society. The laborers subscribe their weekly pittances to these institutions, and draw out comfort- able supplies, in case of sickness, old age, burials, and other exigencies. Thus is the negro gradually trained to the habits of prudence and foresight. Having taken leave of the Lieut. Governor of St. Christo- pher's, who borrowed our brigantine in order to return, in it, to his prosperous little kingdom, we availed ourselves of the abun- dant hospitality of our friends at Gilberts and Dow's Hill for several days. In the course of the time, we again held meet- ings for worship at each place, called at the Moravian establish- ment at Grace Hill, and examined the school kept under the care of the mission ; attended a meeting of the Bible Society, which is working well in this island, and is generously support- ed by the laborers themselves ; and spent one morning, in com- pany with the Governor, in visiting the free settlements, near his residence, Augusta and Liberia. A female proprietor who had become embarrassed, was ad- 6 50 ANTIGUA. vised to sell off part of her property, in small lots. The ex- periment answered her warmest expectations. The laborers in the neighborhood, bought up all the little freeholds with extreme eagerness, made their payments faithfully, and lost no time in settling on the spots which they had purchased. They soon framed their houses, and brought their gardens into useful cultivation with yams, bananas, plantains, pine- apples, and other fruits and vegetables, including plots of sugar cane. In this way Augusta and Liberta sprang up as if by magic. I visited several of the cottages, in company with the Rector Of the parish, and was surprised by the excellence of the buildings, as well as by the neat furniture, and cleanly little articles of daily use, which we found within. It was a scene of contentment and happiness ; and I may certainly add, of industry ; for these little freeholders occupied only their leisure hours, in working on their own grounds. They were also earning wages as laborers on the neighboring estates, or working at English Harbor, as mechanics. During our rideis and drives about Antigua, we sometimes observed specimens, lying on the road, of those remarkable petrifactions for which the island is celebrated. They are either of woods found in the trap formation, or of madrepores, mostly discovered in the marl. The woods thus fossilized, are of various kinds, generally those which still grow on the island, perfectly stone, and often filled up with beautiful spe- cimens of jasper and agate. These petrifactions admit of the finest polish ; and, when polished, are of singular beauty. On our return to St. John's, towards the close of the week, the vicar conveyed me to some of the infant schools which he had founded in the country : the order and success of these institutions was gratifying. In one of them, I was introduced to an aged black woman, who was in the habit of attending the school as an amateur. She could not read herself, but had contrived to obtain a perfect knowledge of the fifty-third chap- ter of Isaiah, descriptive of our Saviour's vicarious sufferings. She repeated this chapter to me with entire accuracy, and with ANTIGUA. 51 a nicety of emphasis, which plainly proved how well she under- stood, and how strongly she felt, its meaning. In the course of our excursion we called at the Cedar Valley estate, which we found in high order and prosperity. The manager, James Bell, made an excellent report of it. — " It is less trouble," said he, " to conduct the whole concern now, than it was to manage the hosjpital alone, before emancipation." Afterwards we visited a small hospital, under the vicar's care, for male and female lepers. The dry leprosy which gradually eats up the ex- tremities of the body, and often the features of the face, is a complaint to which the black people, in the West Indies, are very liable — nor is it confined to them. The complaint is said to be incurable. In this hospital, its unhappy victims were well provided for, and under religious care. They seemed very much at their ease ; and cordially accepted a few sentences of exhortation and sympathy. In the evening our friend Holbertson's negro flock assembled in a large school- ropm, and displayed much devout attention, during a meeting for worship, held by us on the occasion. The next morning a friend of ours, a merchant in the town, conveyed me to the estate of a large resident planter and mem- ber of the council, who received me at his house with the great- est politeness. The manager, a respectable elderly Methodist, drove me about the cane-fields in a country cart, and seemed to take no small pleasure in pointing out the luxuriant crops of sugar cane, at once so vigorous, and so clean. He declared, that the crops of Antigua had never been taken off more easily? than during each successive year, since the date of freedom. This gentleman's estates had been largely peopled with slaves, and in consequence oppressed by mortgages. Now he works them with less than one-third of the number, and at a vastly diminished expense. " The whole expense of conducting and working the estate at present," said the manager, " is less than that of the mere feeding of the slaves." Best of all, the mort- gages on the property are mostly paid off ; and our friend, once half a slave himself, is emerging into comfort, ease, and liberty. 52 ANTIGUA. We overtook a wedding party. Both bride and bridegroom were common laborers on the estate. The bridegroom was at- tired in a blue coat, handsome waistcoat, with a^ brooch, white pantaloons, and Wellington boots — the bride, in a vast pink silk bonnet, lace cap, and white muslin gown, with fashionable sleeves ! We afterwards called on Dr. Daniel, the respected President of the Council, and a large attorney. He freely assured us that the laborers, on the properties under his tare, were working well, and at a much cheaper rate, than in the times of slavery. Here also, the result of the experiment was a saving of expense ; and of course therefore, an increase of profit, and a rise in the value of property. Another week had now elapsed, and on the First-day even- ing, notwithstanding indisposition, a third meeting was held in the Methodist chapel. It was promiscuously attended, as was supposed, by two thousand five hundred people. The ap- pearance of the congregation, and the deep interest they evinced on the occasion, reminded us of the prophecies in the book of Isaiah, respecting the great moral change to be effected by the gospel of Christ, in a world of vice and sorrow. " The wilder- ness and the solitary place shall be glad for them, and the desed; shall rejoice m^ blossom £t3 the rose," tc ;>. "->;. I was now laid by, under the care of a physician, for two days ; but on the next morning (First month, 27th,) was allowed to unite with my friends, in visiting the jail and house of correc- tion, which we found, in a state of cleanliness and order. There was little to complain of, but the stowage of lunatics in the jail— a practice not unusual, in the British West Indian Colo- nies. I have since heard from the Governor General, that a separate place is now allotted to them ; he also informs me, that the tread-wheel, which we were happy to find disused, is on the point of being finally demolished. The Chief Judge, Nanton, who accompanied us to the prisons, and attended the meetings which we held with their afllicted inmates, fully con- firmed the statements which we had previously received of the ANTIGUA. 53 diminution of crime. He also gave a cheering account of the behavior and industry of the negroes on his own property. We were now placed in possession of clear documentary evi- dence, respecting the staple produce of the Island. The average exports of the last five years of slavery, (1829 to 1833 inclu- sive,) were, sugar 12,189 hogsheads; molasses 3,308 pun- cheons ; and mm 2,468 puncheons. Those of the first five years of freedom, (1834 to 1838 inclusive,) were, sugar 13,545 hogsheads; molasses 8,308 puncheons; and rum 1,109 pun- cheons ; showing an excess of 1,356 hogsheads of sugar, and of 5000 puncheons of molasses ; and a diminution of 1,359 puncheons of rum. This comparison is surely a triumphant one ; not only does it demonstrate the advantage derived from free labor during a course of five years, but affords a proof that many of the planters of Antigua have ceased to convert their molasses into rum. It ought to be observed that these five years of freedom, included two of drought, one, very calam- itous. The statement for 1839, forms an admirable climax to this account.^ It is as follows : sugar 22,383 hogsheads ; (10,000 beyond the last average of slavery,) 13,433 puncheons of mo- lasses (also 10,000 beyond that average,) and only 582 pun- cheons of rum ! That, in the sixth year of freedom, after the fair trial of five years, the exports of sugar from Antigua, almost doubled the average of the last five years of slavery, is a fact which precludes the necessity of all other evidence. By what hands was this vast crop raised and realised ? By the hands of that lazy and impracticable race (as they have often been described,) the negroes. And under what stimulus has the work been effected ? Solely under that of moderate wages. The Governor made a parting visit to us at our hotel in the evening, and seemed to derive pleasure from freely imparting to us his just and admirable views of colonial policy. They are founded on the immutable basis of Christian principle. Our brigantine had now returned from St. Christopher's, and early on the 28th, we sailed for Dominica. I cannot with honesty, quit my narrative of Antigua, without 5* 54 ANTIGUA. acknowledging that, amidst the profusion of evidence poured in upon us, in tha tisland, of the favorable working of freedom, we met with one opposing testimony. It was that of a wealthy old gentleman whom I met one day in the streets, and of whom, every one who visits Antigua, is pretty sure to hear. No sooner were we introduced to him, than he began to pour forth his complaints of the misconduct of the laborers, impending ruin, &c., &c. It so happens, however, that not an acre of ground is offered for sale, within his reach, which he does not purchase with the ut- most avidity ; so that his landed property, already large, is con- stantly on the increase. His words were sad enough, but every one acknowledged, that ample was the refiitation of them, furnished by his deeds. Confident we are, that our elderly friend is far too much alive to his own interest, to form any ex- ception to the following declaration of the Governor and N. Gilbert. On our asking them, whether there was any person on the island who wished for the restoration of slavery, they an- swered, w:ithout a moment's hesitation, " No — not one." I, ani, (fee. &c. LETTER TI. DOMINICA. Flushing, L. 1. Sixth-month {June) 5thj 1840. My DKAB Fbxkmd, Our voyage from Antigua to Dominica, was one of thirty-six h(5urs. We passed under the lee of Guadaloupe just before night closed upon us. The appearance of that island on the west side, of which alone we had a view, is mountainous and barren — not without much of picturesque beauty. We were informed however that on the other side, it is highly cultivated, which is also the case with that still more beautiful island, Martinique. It is an evidence that slavery in these French colonies, is not without its hardships, that several hundreds of the slaves, since the British act of emancipation, have made their escape to Dominica — chiefly I believe from Guadaloupe. The poor creatures run prodigious risks in their attempts to cross the water, in small open boats ; and we were informed that at least one third of them perish before they can reach the land. One hardy fellow arrived on the shore of Dominica, after extreme peril, on the remains of a small raft which he had constructed of the pithy stems of the great aloe, or century plant. When at Dominica, we heard excellent accounts of the behavior and industry of these runaway slaves. About two hundred of them remain on the island — the rest have mi- grated, in pursuit of higher wages, to Trinidad. Devoutly is it to be desired that the steps already taken by the French Government towards the emancipation of the slaves, in these colonies, may be carried forward to their completion without delay. It is a circumstance worthy of observation, that the commission appointed to enquire into the subject, after the most 66 DOMINICA. deliberate investigation, have brought in a report recommend- ing — not any gradual dilatory process — but the immediate abo- lition of slavery. The attention of the French Commissioners was closely given (I believe by personal visits) to the result of the experi- ment of abolition in the neighboring British colonies ; and it can be no matter of surprise that the excellent working of free- dom in Antigua, where the change was made without any in- tervening apprenticeship, should have brought them to this conclusion. Nevertheless the strongest argument for the course recommended by them, might be drawn from the com- parison' of Antigua and Dominica. Never were two colonies more contrasted in their circum- stances than these. Antigua is a dry island, watered only from the skies, and cultivated nearly to the extent of its capacities, the remaining wild land being of little value. Dominica is watered by a vast number of little streams which flow (as we were told) from a fathomless lake embosomed in the mountains, at a high level above the sea. It is in consequence, a moist island, and of luxuriant fertility ; and nine tenths oi the soil, productive as it is by nature, are wholly unoccupied — in a state of absolute wildness. Antigua again, long before the date of emancipation, was the scene of much Christian labor, and edu- cation had been spread extensively among the slaves. On the contrary, in Dominica, the people who speak a barbarous French patois, and are under the sway of the Roman Catholic religion, were, until lately, almost entii^ely destitute of schools, or any other means of instruction— an ignorant and uncultiva- ted race. And yet — wonderful to say — the experiment of emancipation, is working just as well, in Dominica, as it is in Antigua. The negroes of Dominica, neither squat on the wild land, nor shew any wildness themselves ; the trifling unsettle- ment which took place at the date of full freedom, soon subsi- ded ; and they are working, in a quiet inofiensive manner, on the estates of their former masters. "Their conduct," says one of the Stipendiaries (in his last report to the Governor General, DOMINICA. 57 dated " January 1," 1840) " is orderly, quiet, and peaceable." A second says, " They continue to conduct themselves with every propriety ;" a third observes that " their general conduct is or- derly and industrious." The solution of the problem, is easy. Educated, or uneducated, the negro loves his home, humble though it be, and has no v/ish to exchange it for a wild life upon the mountains. With equal sincerity he loves the silver " mochos^^ which are placed in his hands as the reward of his labor, and it is natural to him to work, in order to obtain them. On the following morning we obtained a distant view of Dominica, but did not succeed in reaching Roseau, until night- fall. Columbus discovered this island on the first day of the week — thence its name, Dominica ; and when queen Isabella asked for a description of it, he crumpled a sheet of paper in his hands, in order to give her some notion of the jagged and compressed appearance. of its conical mountains. One cannot approach this romantic spot of earth, without feeling a kind of fascination. A late writer describes it as a land of " mists and torrents and rainbows," and such it truly is. The mountains peaked and picturesque as they are, and sortie of them very lofty — the highest five thousand six hundred feet above the lev^l of the s^si^-^gre m^tled to their yery tops, with Uixuriw^t vegetation ; and through the deep ravirtes, and luxuriant dells which divide them, many a sudden gust of wind assails the mariner, and many a mountain stream finds its way into tho ocean. As it was quite dark before we cast anchor, we concluded not to attempt a landing until morning ; but after I had retired to my berth, I was told that two colored gentlemen, Louis Bellot» a planter, and Charles Fillan, clerk to the house of representa- tives, had come on board to offer us a hearty welcome, and tender their help and hospitality. We declined their kindness for the night ; but the next morning they rejoined our company, and conducted us to the clean and comfortable abode of Maria Dalrymple, a colored Methodist matron, whom, not without good cause, they and many others in the place, are accustomed 58 DOMINICA. to call their *f mother." There we were received with abundant cordiality, and were provided with good accommodation, both of bed and board, during our stay on the island. After partaking of a hearty breakfast, and making a few needful arrangements, we proceeded to the Government House, and paid our respects to Major McPhail, the Lieut. Governor. He and his lady had given a kind reception to some missionary members of our soci- ety, when he was governor of Santa Maura, one of the Ionian islands ; and very kind and cordial were they to our- selves. We frequently partook of their hospitality, and were glad to meet at their table, white and colored persons without distinction. The major is a man of great integrity, and liberal views. He was imprisoned two months, on one occasion, in Portugal, for refusing to kneel before the host. When in Greece, he was an able and successful promoter of education ; and in Dominica, he has proved himself, through no small dif- ficulties, to be the undaunted protector Of the rights of the negro. I wish I had the opportunity of introducing to thee, our friends Fillan and Bellot. The former is a young man with the wool of Africa on his head, but full of bodily and mental energy, ardent in the cause of religion and humanity, but naturally prone to merrihient. He is a plant of no stunted growth, which would bear a little pruning ; and reminded me of duintilian's saying, in his work on education, " Des quod amjputem — give me something to cut off^ I draw this portrait, at the risk of annoying him, for the sake of the race with which he is con- nected. Bellot is an intelligent, well-educated person, a mem- ber of the legislature, and much respected in the colony. On our return from the Governor's, we found they had provided horses, and were ready to accompany us, on our excursion into the country. The day was hot, but the temptation of the scenery was irresistible. We first ascended Mont Bruce, a military station, from which there is an enchanting view of the Roseau Valley, which winds along between many shaped rocks and mountains, itself luxuriantly green ; with the little river of that DOMINICA. 59 name running, or rather rushing, through the midst of it. As we rode up and down the hill, we observed on its brow, many garden grounds of free settlers, filled with orange trees, plan- tains, and other fruits and vegetables. We then took our course along the valley itself, for a few miles, until we arrived at one of Bellot's estates, where we found his people busily engaged in making sugar. He has had the good sense to lease out por- tions of his land to independent settlers, many of whom are at work upon his estate. His sugar works are in the valley, and after leaving them, we pursued a winding road up a high hill, which led us to his house at Copthall. When there, I observed a curious little building on the premises^ — of new stone well cemented — out of which the pigs were emerging one after another. On examination I found it was the "bilboes" or <*cachot;" an abominable place, without light or air, or as nearly so as possible, in which the wretched negroes had for- merly been punished with solitary confinement. During slavery, and the apprenticeship, Copthall had been in other hat\ds, and was rapidly falling into decay ; — almost the ouly tight place on the property, being this very bilboes. Now, under freedom, and the care of Bellot, the estate was rapidly improving, the produce of it had increased £200 percent, and the Bilboes were turned into a pig sty ! Who can deny that here was a delightful proof of the advantage and efficiency of. freedom ? After partaking of needful refreshment, we followed the mountain road, to a higher elevation, and visited another estate, also in the hands of a colored planter, where we again found the laborers, working well. Several of the people gathered around us, and a woman who could speak English, came forward on behalf of the company, to beg for a school. " We are hungry for a school," said she, " we are tired of waiting for it." Nor were these idle words ; for the people on this and a neighboring property, had agreed to subscribe eight dollars per month in part payment of a teacher. Nothing indeed can be more eager, than the desire of the negroes of Dominica for education — they seem determined to obtain it; and it is gratifying to know 60 DOMINICA. that the efforts now making, for the purpose, are at once consid- erable and successful. There are nearly 700 scholars in the four Mico schools, which are ably conducted, and being quite clear of sectarianism, are not opposed by the Roman Catholic priests. Geo. Clark, the laborious and exemplary minister of the parish church at Roseau, has four schools under his care. The Methodists have five mission establishments, 1017 mem- bers of their churchy and eleven schools besides two held only on the First-day of the week. Thus the cause of Christian instruction is now making rapid progress, and will, I hope, ere very long, pervade this island, as it does Antigua. The quantity of provisions raised in Dominica, is stated, in a late official report, to have increased 50 per cent , in the year 1839. The soil makes generous repayment for a little culture, and as we i*ode along, the fruitful provision grounds, either of the independent settlers, or of free laborers on the es- tates^ met our eye in every direction. The oranges, and other kindred fruits, are peculiarly fine, and we shall not soon forget the refreshment of some ripe and juicy " forbidden fruit," which a negro shook from his tree, and kindly bestowed upori us, in the course of our mountain ride. On our return home, we overtook a peasant with an agouti in his hands. It is a small, hairy animal, which seems to unite the natures of the pig and the rabbit. '\Ve bought it, and our " methodist mother" afterwards cooked it for our breakfast. The zoology of Dominica is quite interesting. The wild boar is found in the woods ; a species of boa constrictor is also met with, and not unfrequently pays a fatal visit to the poultry- yard. Parroqueets are numerous, and several kinds of hum- ming birds, abound. Immense numbers of land-crabs, at certain seasons, afford excellent food for all who take the trouble of catching them. The same may be said of the crapeaus, very large frogs, which frequent the pure, running waters, and are, as we can testify, an excellent article of diet — the meat tasting like that of a chicken. But it is the vegetable luxuriance of this island, which is the most striking to the eye of a stran- DOMINICA. 61 ger, — far exceeding any thing that we have elsewhere witnessed, except perhaps, in some parts of Jamaica. Innumerable shrubs? plants and trees, novel to us, with broad-leaved creepers of va- rious kinds, cover the hills with a remarkable depth of verdure. The most beautiful of these productions is the tree-fern, which grows to the height of 20 or even 30 feet, and waves its bright green feathers over the whole scenery of the island. After riding many hours, we were fairly overtaken by the night-fall, and were glad to return in safety to our comfortable quarters. We afterwards spent an agreeable evening at the Governor's. On the next day, the first of the week, we held our meetings in the Methodist meeting-house morning and evening. In the evening, the Governor and his lady, and most of the gentry of the place, attended, with a large number of others, of various shades of color. As the colony is much distracted by parties, it was, we hope, for a good purpose, that we endeavored to hold up the standard of Christian charity and unity — " There shall be one fold and one shepherd." Our friend Joseph Phillips, a stipendiary magistrate, had kindly come from a distant part of the island to visit us, and furnished us with a variety of important and encouraging in- formation. He gave us an unqualified good account of the conduct of the free-laborers. They are remarkably honest, and bags of small coin, intended for the payment of wages, are con- veyed about the country, without risk. In the early part of the apprenticeship, the number of punishments per month, in his district was 70. They are now reduced to an average of only two. One invalid constable is sufficient to keep his whole dis- trict in order. In a late report addressed to Sir WiUiam Cole- brooke, he observes, " The amount of crime in this colony of 20,000 souls, is perhaps less than in any other part of her Ma- jesty's Dominions." We received similar reports from other magistrates, especially a colored gentleman — William Lynch, an active and intelligent stipendiary, whose firm support of the rights of the laborers, has done him high credit. Accompanied by this magistrate, and Fillan and Bellot, as - 6 62 DOMINICA. before, we devoted the following day to an excursion to the souffriere, on the northern coast. A ride of many miles through another luxuriant valley, brought us to Geneva, the extensive sugar estate of William B. Lockhart. The views there are delightful, embracing the beautiful island of Marti- nique in the distance. I visited the sugar works, and am not aware that I have ever seen a more healthy looking, or apparently industrious, company of laborers, than were there assembled. Their employer assured me that his people were working well, and that he was deriving decided pecuniary advantage, from the substitution of free-labor for the dead weight of slavery. In ascending the lofty hill which separates Geneva from the souffriere, we passed by several estates. — The report of " Coole- rie," was that " the negroes were working delightfully :" at " Berraquoir/' the manager informed us that " they were work- ing cheerfully, and cheaply to their employer as compared with slavery." A third property had been dismantled under slavery, and was now again in process of sugar cultivation. Thus from step to step, our evidence, in favor of the present system, accu- mulated. When we arrived at the top of the hill, the scenery presented to our view was of uncommon sublimity and beauty. On one side lay Grand Bay, a noble inlet of the sea, with the rocky and hilly coast nearly surrounding it ; on the other, the valley of the souflfriere. well covered with sugar-cane, winding its way to the sea, between lofty mountains. One of these mountains is supposed to consist almost entirely of sulphur, and the brow of it forms the souffriere ; from which springs a small stream of boiling water, and flows down, through the val- ley, to the sea. As we descended the hill by a zig-zag route, we came into the immediate neighborhood of this mass of sulphur which fills the surrounding atmosphere with a strong odor. It is of a pure quality, rather white than yellow, and is now ex- ported in considerable quantities. The traces of volcanic oper- ation, throughout this island, are very conspicuous ; not only in the fantastic shapes of the hills, caused (it maybe presumed) by some vast irregular force from below ; but in the coloring of many of the rocks, which plainly betrays the action of fire. DOMINICA. 63 One of the lofty conical hills which rises from this valley, to the east, appeared to be cultivated to its summit with coffee ; at any rate, the hedges by which the coffee plants used to be protect- ed, were seen intersecting the hill in every direction, and formed a pleasing feature in the scenery before us. It is a remarkable circumstance that since the date of a hurricane, which ravaged this island, a few years ago, the coffee plants have generally withered, from the resistless attack of a small white fly. In consequence of this blight, the exports of coffee have been greatly reduced, and several of the coffee-estates are now com- ing under sugar-cultivation. They are generally in the hands of small French planters, whose slaves formed part of their families before emancipation, and are now working the prop- erties for their former owners, on shares. The present crop is said to be an improved one ; and hopes are entertained that the miserable effects of the blight will be gradually surmounted. At the little village of Souffriere, by the sea side, a Mico school, under the care of a pious and able teacher, is in useful operation. Boats were in readiness for us on the shore, and we were rapidly conveyed, by star-light, along a rocky and pictur- esque coast, back again to Roseau. There we continued for three days longer, visited the prison and the schools, held two more religious meetings, and received kind calls from several of the principal residents. I am not aware that the favorable reports which we obtained, from them, of the orderly and industrious behavior of the peasantry, was interrupted by a single exception. Among the most interesting of those visits, was that of our friend Dugald Stuart Laidlaw, an elderly planter of great influence in the island, much respect- ed as a liberal patron of education, but one whose habits had long been associated with the old system. He is a large proprietor, and still larger attorney, and has no less than twenty-two estates under his care. The valuable information with which he favored us — entirely of his own accord — was to the following effect — ''that although his present crops were somewhat diminished in consequence of the slight degree of 64 DOMINICA. unsettlement, which took place after the commencement of full freedom, (at the time of planting) he had now no complaint to make — that the laborers were working well on their old locations — ^that not a single instance of squatting had occurred — that he was conducting his estates on the plan of job-work, which was agreeable and profitable to both parties — ^that where- as he had formerly borne the burden of more than two thousand one hundred slaves or apprentices, he now employed only^ix hundred free laborers — that he expected to save money by the change — and lastly, that he was taking measures for enlarging the extent of his sugar cultivation." I afterwards met with an agreeable confirmation of this last item in the account. In company with the Governor, and our friend Bellot, I rode out one afternoon, to see a celebrated prospect from a hill, bordering on the valley of the Roseau, called Watten Waven. When we arrived at the spot, I found it was one of the estates under the care of this gentleman. Before us was ari amphitheatre of mountains, of romantic shapes and covered with foliage, and at their feet, an uncultivated glen of extreme luxuriance. The scene was lovely .beyond description ; but its beauty, if not to be materially injured, was at least about to change its charac- ter, for our friend Laidlaw had already laid his plans for con' verting this wild, fertile glen, into a sugar plantation. The export of sugar from Dominica was, in 1837, (the last year of apprenticeship) 2,221 hogsheads ; in 1838, 2,900 hogs- heads ; in 1839, 2,474 hogsheads ; a gradual but decided in- crease is now expected. Cheering, indeed, is the fact that, in the meantime, both the morals and comforts of the laboring population are rapidly im- proving ; take for an evidence, the decrease of crime, and the increase of imports. In 1833, (the last year before the act of emancipation) the commitments to the jail, were 160 ; in 1839, the first entire year of freedom, only 88 ; difference in favor of freedom, 72. The average imports of the last five years of slavery, were DOMINICA. 65 of the value of £64,000. In 1839, they amounted to £120,000 ; although certain vessels which had been expected, had not yet arrived, when the accounts were made up — difference in favor of freedom, £56,000 ; a sum which mainly represents an in- crease of comforts enjoyed by the emancipated negroes. Two other circumstances, in the present state of Dominica, deserve a somewhat emphatic notice. The first is, that field labor, being no longer the work of slaves, is no longer held to be disgraceful. The black people who were free, before the date of emancipation, used to consider it below their dignity, to wark on the estates. Now it is quite otherwise. We had the pleasure of finding them busily engaged, with their lately emancipated brethren, in cutting the cane and boiling the sugar. The second circumstance alluded to, is of a political nature. A majority of the lower house^ in the Legislature, is composed of colored persons — duly chosen, of course, by the freeholders of the island. It may naturally be asked, whether a body of persons, so constituted, show any tendency to disquietude or disaffection. To such an inquiry the answer is most satisfac- tory ; they are remarkable for their loyalty — the zealous friends and supporters of the British Government ! On the 7th of the Second-month, we took our leave of our warm-hearted friends. Maria Dalrymple, who had lodged and boarded us, so greatly to our comfort, refused to receive a penny of repayment ; but we at length persuaded her to take the doubloons which were her due, with our permission that she should apply them to charity. Our colored brethren accom- panied us to the vessel. We parted from them, under the feeling of Christian love and friendship ; and as the lateness of the season precluded a farther windward voyage (consistently with our other objects) we set sail for St. Thomas. The wind which, as a matter of course, we hoped to en- joy in our favor, now " hauled" to the westward, and blew strongly ahead. Such are the trials of patience to which one is often exposed, at sea. As we slowly receded from Dominica, 6^ 66 DOMINICA. we amused ourselves with the following memorandum ot its history and its charms. 1. 'Twas on the Christian's day of rest, While men on shore their faith confessed, In many a song of praise ; The gallant knight of the western star. Descried thy headlands from afar. And traced thy shadowy bays. 2. Clouds and mists were over thee flung, And the rainbow on thy rocks was hung, And howled the wind thy vales among, And the mountain torrents roared ; But soon thou wast mantled o'er with smiles. When the sunbeam broke thro' thy deep defiles, And o'er the loveliest of the isles. Beauty and grace were poured. 3. The crumpled sheet in the veteran's hand, ^ Figured thy jagged and pyramid land, But all thy rocks were green ; The tree-fern waved upon thy brow. And the plaintain leaf was broad below, Where the rivulet gushed unseen. 4. The parent of three hundred rills, Asleep Eunidst thy ravined hills, " A fathomless lake was found ; And high around thy mountains rose, But never wore they the wreath of snows,. For they were forest crowned. 5. The monkeys, voluble in chat, Within thy bowers in council sat, And roved the bristled boar ; Coiled the vast snake without a sting, * Blazed many a bird unskilled to sing. And the sprite that hums on the lustred wing, ^\ ^ Glanced o'er thy flowery shore. ^. * 6. Far from the haunts of civil men. O'er brake and thicket, glade and glen, The dark-haired Indian wandered then, Untutor'd and untamed. ^ DOMINICA. 67 A hardy, yet a harmless race, That never saw the white man's face. Or heard the Spaniard named. 7. The serpent to their bosom pressed. Poisoned their blood and broke their rest. Then circling, stole their soil ; Their native freedom sank in chains, Barter'd for beads their fruitful plains, Their loss was liberty — their gains Were slavery, stripes, and toil., 8. As melts beneath the scorching sun, When winter's sturdy course is run, April's untimely snow ; So melted from their father land. The hapless, persecuted band, Before the lash of woe. 9. A few that bear the Caribb's name, Now idly weave the wicker frame,. Or beg a scanty meal ; Their native fires for ever gone. They wander listless and alone — Their woes forget to feel. 10. Not so, the sorrow-stricken race. Soon kidnapped to supply their place,, From home and kindred torn ; In pestilential cabins pressed, * Robbed of their wages, scourged, distreBsed,. Degraded, weak, forlorn- 11. Then hail, the holy, happy day, When all their chains were cast away, And freedom spread her genial sway. O'er the islands of the west — Thy verdant hills shall flow with peace,, Thy vales, with plenty shall increase. Thy notes of discord all shall cease. Fair Dominique the blest. Our voyage continued four days. Having lost all sight of land, and being without any means of calculating longitude, 68 DOMINICA. we were, at length, very much at a loss to conjecture our true position. According to the Captain's reckoning, we were yet far away to the east ; but our own calculations brought us on a line with Santa Cruz. This opinion proved to be correct. On the break of day, one morning, we found ourselves ap- proaching that island. Although bound for St. Thomas, we no\^ thought it advisable to change our course, and soon found ourselves safe at West-End, in the midst of the cordial wel- comes and congratulations of our friends. We were a good deal wearied by long-continued excitement and exertion, and found in their society, for a few days, just that refreshment, both of body and mind, which was suited to our need. One change,, which had taken place during the seven weeks of our absence, was remarkable. When we were there before, the subject of slavery w£is almost unmentionable ; now we could scarcely find time to answer the inquiries made of us, respect- ing the working of emancipation in the islands to the wind- ward. Many of the planters openly professed their willingness to emancipate their slaves, if compensation were but granted. The question of compensation lies between the planters and the Danish Government ; and we sincerely hope that the latter will exercise all due liberality on the occasion. Nevertheless, it is clear, that, in pure justice, this question can never bar the infi- nitely higher claim of a third party — that is, the negro — to a property in his own person. Iameab Friend, My narrative respecting the British West India islands, being now brought to a close, I will take the liberty of concentrating and recapitulating the princq)al points of the subject^ in a few distinct propositions. I. The emancipated negroes are working well on the estates of their old masters. The evidence of this fact conr. tained in the foregoing letters, is, I hope, clear and ample. Thou wilt be pleeised to recal the case of Tortola — especially the evidence of President Isaacs, who has fifteen hundred free laborers under his care *,: of St. Christopher's — that scene of in- dustry and prosperity ; of Nevis and Montserrat, of which the official accounts are so cheering^ and satisfactory — pf Antigua, where, after the trial of freedom for six years, the produce of sugar is largely increased, many estates, thrown up in slavery, are again under cultivation, and the landed property, once sink- ing under its burdens, is already delivered from its njortgages — of Dominica, where notwithstanding the lack of moral culture, and the superabundance of fertile wild land, the peasantry are working as peaceably and diligently, on their old locations, as in Antigua itself. Nor does Jamaica, when duly inspected and fairly estimated, furnish any exception to the general result. We find that, in that island, wherever the negroes are fairly, kindly, and wisely treated, there they are working well on the properties of tfceir old masters ; and that the existing instances of a contrary description, must be ascribed to causes which qlass under slavery, and not under freedom. Let it not however 12* 138 THE CONTRAST. be imagined, that the negroes who are not working on the estates of their old masters, are on that account, idle. Even these, are in general, busily employed in cultivating their own grounds, in various descriptions of handicraft, in lime-burning or fishing — in benefiting themselves and the community, through some new, but, equally desirable medium. Besides all this, stone walls are built, new houses erected, pastures cleaned, ditches dug, meadows drained, roads made and macadamised, stores fitted up, villages formed, and other beneficial operations efiected ; the whole of which, before emancipation, it would have been a folly even to attempt. The old notion that the negro is, by consti- tution, a lazy creature who will do no work at all except by compulsion, is now for ever exploded. Taking the same population of black people, a larger propor- tion of them is operative under freedom, than was the case under slavery ; and of the operative part, each individual, on an average, performs more work than he did before. Thus the whole quantity of work obtained, by the stimulus of wages, is considerably greater than the amount formerly procured by the terror of the whip. When I speak of the stimulus of wages, I allude especially to its most eflfective form — payment by the piece, or job. The peasantry of the county of Norfolk, in England, afford a fair specimen of industrious labor, on day's wages, in a cool climate. My own observation has led me to the conclusion that a free negro in the West Indies, paid by the day, will, in general, perform about three quarters oi the quantity of work, which would be called a fair day's labor in Norfolk. But employ and pay him by the job, or piece, and he will soon equal, and even exceed, the day-labor standard of the Norfolk peasant. I presume it was chiefly to job work that a most intelligent magistrate of St. Christopher's alluded, when he said to me with great emphasis — " They will do an infinity of work for wages." II. An increased quantity of work thro^vn upon the mar- ket, is of course followed by the cheapening of labor. That this Is the case in Jamaica, is in the clearest manner demonstra- THE CONTRAST. 139 ted by the experience of A. B. and his friends, in the parish of Manchester. Great is the pecuniary reUef experienced by many of the planters, in the several islands which we visited, in con- sequence of their deliverance from the dead weight of their slaves. In many cases, the saving amounts to the half of their former outgoing. A planter who owned three hundred slaves, for whom he provided, food, clothing, bedding, household utensils, and medical attendance — ^not to mention white men for watchers, whips, and bilboes — is now delivered from the whole of this burden ; pays one hundred free laborers instead ; and soon, by dint of job work, mechanism, and short processes, reduces that number to sixty or seventy. Thus his debit in account comes to be almost as much decreeised, as are his crosses and his cares. Remember A. B's declaration that he had rather — ^for the profit's sake — "make sixty tierces of coffee under free- dom, than one hundred and twenty, under slavery." True indeed it is, that the circumstances of different estates, and even of different colonies, varied considerably as to the ex- penditure occasioned by the support of the slaves ; and the figures, in the comparison now instituted between slavery and freedom, will vary in proportion. But so far, we have omitted to take into the account, the interest of the capital invested in slaves, and the dead loss occasioned by the excess of deaths over births — items which used to produce tremendous debits in every fairly arranged balance-sheet of a West Indian slave- holder. Bring these items into view, and the saving on the side of freedom, is undoubted, uniform, and in many cases, prodigious. III. We prove the correctness of a sum in division, by a corresponding process in multiplication. Just so, do we prove the truth of the two preceding propositions, by a fact of which there is now taking place , a gradual but sure development, in all the islands which we visited ; viz : that real property has riseuy and is risings in value. In the towns, both the enhance- ment and improvement of property are extraordinary. In the country, the value of the slaves — to say the least of it — is 140 THE CONTRAST. ♦ already transferred to the land. Remember the declaration of our friend in St. Christopher's, who had bought an estate, before emancipation, for £2000, and now would not sell it for £6000 ; and that of our friend in Jamaica, who sold " G estate" for £1,500, and now remarks that it is worth £10,000. I wish it, however, to be understood, that the comparison is not here made with those olden times of slavery, when the soils of the islands were in their most prolific state, and the slaves them- selves, of a corresponding value ; but with those days of de- pression and alarm, which preceded the act of emancipation. All that I mean to assert is, that landed property, in the British colonies, has touched the bottom, has found that bottom solid, has already risen considerably, and is now on a steady ascend- ing march, towards the recovery of its highest value. One circumstance which greatly contributed to produce its deprecia- tion, was the cry of interested persons who wished to run it down ; and the demand for it, which has arisen among these very persons, is now restoring it to its rightful value. Remem- ber the old gentleman in Antigua, who is always complaining of the effects of freedom, and always huymg land. IV. The personal comforts of the laboring population, under freedom, are multiplied tenfold. In making this assertion, I do not mean to insinuate that they enjoyed no comforts under slavery. On many of the estates, they were well fed and clothed, and were kindly treated, in other respects. Their provision grounds were often ample, the poor and infirm were supported with the rest, medical attendance was given, and many of them found opportu- nities for saving money. On the other hand, I am fully aware that since the date of full (nominal) freedom, they have been partially subjected, in some colonies, to grievous vexation and oppression ; that in others, their wages are too low ; that the poor and infirm are not always adequately provided for ; and lastly, that medical attendance, in many cases, has been withdrawn. Yet on the whole, the improvement in their physical con- dition and comforts, is wonderful. In the first place, they are ^ THE CONTRAST. 141 no longer suffering", under the perpetual feeling of compulsion ; they are enjoying the pleasures of independence — the whip, the bilboes, the treadwheel, are all withdrawn. And secondly, their dress and diet, are, both of them, very greatly better than they used to be, under slavery. They are constant customers now, at the stores of the hosier, the linen draper, the tailor, the shoemaker, and the grocer — of which delightful fact, we find both a sure evidence, and a happy consequence, in the vast increase — almost the doubling — of imports. Bread and meat are now commonly eaten by them. Remember their beauti- fully neat appearance at our meetings ; their handsome wedding dresses, the eggs consumed for their wedding cakes j the wine, in their cottages, freely bestowed on weary pilgrims ; their boots and shoes, which they are so much afraid of spoiling in the mud ; the mules and horses, on which they come riding to their chapels ; their pic-nic dinners, their social feasts of tem- perance and freedom. Above all, remember their thriving little freeholds — their gradual, but steady, accumulation of wealth. Wherever they are fairly treated, the laborers of JamEiica, are already most favorably circumstanced. Teach them to improve the structure, arrangement, and furniture, of their cottages ; and to exchange all items of finery and luxury, for substantial domestic convtenience — and it will be in vain to seek for a better-conditioned peasantry in any country of Eu- rope. V. Lastly, the moral and religious improvement of this peo- ple, under freedom, is more than equal to the increase of their comforts. Under this head, there are three points, deserving, respectively, of a distinct place in our memories. First, the rapid increase, and vast extent, of elementary and Christian edu- cation — schools for infants, young persons, and adults, multiply- ing in every direction. Secondly, the gradual, but decided diminution of crime^ amounting, in many country districts, al- most to its extinction. Thirdly^ the happy change of the gene- ral, and almost universal, practice of concubinage, for the equally general adoption of marriage. " Concubinage," says Dr. Stewart 142 THE CONTRAST. in his letter to me, " the universal practice of the colored people, has wholly disappeared from amongst them. No young woman of color thinks of forming such connections now." What is more, the improved morality of the blacks, is reflecting itself on the white inhabitants — even the overseers are ceasing, one after another, from a sinful mode of life, and are forming reputable connections in marriage. But while these three points are confessedly of high importance, there is a fourth which at once embraces, and outweighs, them all — I mean the diffusion of vital Christianity. I know that great apprehen- sions were entertained — especially in this country — lest on the cessation of slavery, the negroes should break away at once from their masters, and their ministers. But freedom has come, and while their masters have not been forsaken, their religious teachers have become dearer to them than ever. Under the banner of liberty, the churches and meeting-houses have been enlarged and multiplied, the attendance has become regular and devout, the congregations have, in many cases, been more than doubled — above all, the conversion of souls (as we have reason to believe) has been going on to an extent never before known in these colonies. In a religious point of view, £is I have before hinted, the wilderness, in many places, has indeed begun to "blossom as the rose." " Instead of the thorn," has " come up the fir-tree, and instead of the briar" has " come up the myrtle tree, and it shall be to the Lord for a name — for an everlasting sign that shall not be cut off." When we were engaged in waiting on the intellectual no- bility of your land, at Washington, we restricted ourselves, with little exception, to a plain narrative of the good working of freedom in the West Indies — leaving it to them to draw the conclusions. But now, my dear friend, in a calm retreat, far away from persons in authority, and left to my own reflections, I feel that I may, without impropriety, go a little farther. I will therefore solicit thy attention to a plain, practical, contrast. I know something of the slave states of North America — THE CONTRAST. 143 many interesting weeks have I spent in Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina ; and some little time, both in South Caro- lina, and Georgia; and although I strictly confined myself to my functions as a minister of the Gospel, I travelled with my eyes and ears open, on the subject of slavery. I will therefore freely submit to thy consideration the result of my own inquiries and observations, in the slave states of your Union, on the five points now alluded to. These are, first, the quantity of labor procured under slavery ; secondly, the comparative expense of the system ; thirdly, the effect of it upon the value of property ; fourthly, the comforts of the laboring people ; and lastly, the state of morals and religion. On these several points, I beg leave to offer the following remarks. I. The quantity of labor. — Many a time have I seen the slaves of Virginia and the Carolinas, at work in the fields, under the surveillance of a white overseer ; and I could not believe that the work obtained was, in quantity, comparable to that of freemen ; for the slaves were laboring without vigor, and the overseer was doing nothing. On inquiry, in South Carolina especially, I found that the quantity of work procured from the slaves, was even much less than I had anticipated. I under- stood that in a body of slaves, on any estate, the proportion in active service, at any given time, is not greater in America, than it was in the West Indies. There are the old, the infirm, the sick, the shammers of sickness, the mothers of young infants, the numerous children, o/t/ica/ objections to the abolition of slavery, are not to be surmounted. Such I believe was the substance of his argument, which was listened to with great apparent delight, by several of his allies from the south, wha i were present on the occasion. To hear the eloquent argumen- tation of our friend, was indeed a great pleasure to ourselves. ^ ' . 1 said it was a treat to me to hear J. C. Calhoun reason, and i that I would not attempt to reply to him — at any rate not with- ;* out previous reflection. At the same time I ventured to observe, first that political influence, when obtained in connection with the acquisition of property, is in its nature safe ; and secondly, that the principles of the Gospel of Christ, were the adequate remedy for all prejudices of race, cast, or color. Since that time, I have often reflected on the Senator's argu- ment, and my own mind is well satisfied of its essential fallacy. THE CONTRAST. 151 First with regard to Jamaica, the strong arm of the British Government, was indeed considered necessary for the protection of the whites, during slavery, when the planters and their families were on the edge of a volcano which might any day explode ; and notwithstanding that protection, I believe it may truly be said, that an explosion must long since have taken place, had it not been for the unrivalled patience and forbear- ance of the negro race. But now, under freedom, the volcano is extinguished ; the planters and their families are in perfect safety ; the protecting arm of the third party is no longer re- quisite, and to a great extent, it has already, been withdrawn. We were thoroughly satisfied, in all the islands which we visited, that the few troops remaining in them, were, in a politi- cal point of view, utterly needless, and might be withdrawn to a man, with entire impunity — and this I believe is the general opinion of the planters themselves. In the mean time, we did not find that any inconvenience is arising, from the constitu- tional differences of the two races. Certainly there is no an- tipathy of the blacks towards the whites, but rather the feelings of respect, deference, and affection ; and on the other hand, the prejudice of the whites against the blacks, is greatly on the de- cline. Although there is very little intermarriage between them, the distinctions of color are already forgotten to a degree which we could hot have anticipated. All are now on one political level ; and the influence of each individual, whether black, brown, or white, is left to depend, as it ought to do, on its legiti- mate grounds — namely, property, talent, education, and charac- ter. As the negroes make progress in these elements of influ- ence, their political power will of course increase ; but that power will be conservative, and not destructive. That the position of things which I have now described, as existing in the West Indies, is one of harmlessness and safety, cannot reasonably be denied. Experience has already proved it to be so, to a considerable extent. Nor can I perceive a single sound reason, why it should be otherwise, were it tried in the slave states of your own union. 152 THE CONTRAST. While it is obvious that the juxta-position of the two races already exists, and cannot he avoided^ it is to me equally evident that the true danger of that juxta-position, lies in the relations of slavery. These are unnatural ; they are opposed to the eternal rule of right, and they contain, in themselves, the seeds of violence and confusion. Abolish them therefore in faith ; bestow on men of all complexions, an equality of political right, and what is the consequence ? The whole population, is thrown on the operation of natural and legitimate principles of action, every man finds his own just level, religion spreads under the bariner of freedom, and all is quietness, order and peace. Such is the lot of the British West Indian colonies ; and such, I hum- bly but ardently hope, will soon be the happy condition of every one of the United States. I am, (fcc, &c. LETTER XIII. CUBA. Providence^ R. /., Seventh-month {July) 1st, 1840. Mt dear Frieni), When we sailed away from Jamaica, as mentioned in a former letter, we soon found that we were in the midst of an agreeable and interesting company. It consisted, of Samuel B. Parsons, a young friend of ours from New- York, who had met us in Jamaica, twenty-two other Americans, including several amiable women, on their return from Santa Cruz to their native shores, and our Spanish friend Cabrera, who was well able to converse with us, both in French and English. He is a person of remarkable intelligence, courteous manners, and as we have every reason to believe, sound moral and religious principle. During the awful conflicts by which Spain has of late years been so fearfully convulsed, he has been seven times con- demned to death. Once by the decree of a Carlist General, he was sitting, with the handkerchief bound about his eyes, on the point of being publicly shot, when the tables were suddenly turned, and his rescue weis effected. Singular indeed are the providential circumstances which from time to time, turned up for his deliverance, often through the intervention of intrepid women, and he is now one of the most respected and useful servants of the Queen Regent. Of the accomplished educa- tion, liberal views, and benevolent intentions, of that royal lady, he gave us an excellent account. — Of course, we did not fail to implore the exertion of his influence with her, for the actual suppression, of their already legally/ abolished slave trade. Our voyage was one of nine days, and although of longer duration, than it was reasonable to expect, was remarkably 154 cuBA#^^ , *^ pleasant. One circumstance alone threw a gloom over the circle — the extreme illness of two of our passengers, in whom the genial climate of Santa Cruz had failed to arrest the pro- gress of consumption. One of these individuals has since fin- ished her mortal career, in the faith, and hopes, of the Christ- ian. Every morning after breakfast, we assembled on deck, for the audible reading of a portion of Scripture, on which occa- sions no one was a more willing or attentive auditor than our friend the Spaniard. He is a Roman Catholic, as to his habits and connections, but free from the superstitions of popery. Our Scripture reading weis generally followed up by the Governor's school. Ignorant as we were, even of the right sounds of the letters, he kindly undertook to teach several of our party, Span- ish ; and certainly, if he manifests, in his political duties, the same orderly and perspicacious intellect, which he then applied to the instruction of his pupils, he must be a valuable agent, under any Government. He so far succeeded that they pre- sented to him, before we separated, a short address in his own language, which may serve as a memorandum of our pleasant intercourse. Gentil maestro humano Claro, benigno, sano, Tu sabes que lo vano, Solo es de arena un grano, Por tu noble entereza, f ; Peligro tu cabeza, Mientras horrible guerra Agitaba la lierra ; Mas Dios te ha preservado Dal enemigo hado, Y la gran Reyna bella, Quiso poner la estrella Que cl solo honor ha hecho Sobre tu ilustre pecho. Oh, muy felice fuera, Por tener un Cabrera ! # CUBA. 155 The weather was delightful ; and the contemplation of the ever varying beiauties of ocean scenery^ occupied many an agree- able hour, as we gradually made progress on our voyage. One day a heron or crane, of speckled white and brown, found her rest on our rigging ; at another time, a number of large birds of a bright scarlet hue, were seen flying, in a row, at some distance from the vessel. They were probably specimens of the scarlet ibis — or perhaps flamingos. Schools of porpoises were often seen from on board the ship, and never seen without amusement ; the smooth agility of the leap with which they rise for a moment out of the water, and at the same time move rapidly onward on their journey, impresses one with the idea of perfect bodily enjoy- ment. I was in hopes that we should sail within sight of the Isle of Pines, near the southren coast of Cuba, which is said to be very beautiful — once the resort of pirates, and still probably, of slavers— but we passed it at a distance of thirty miles, and saw nothing of it. Soon afterwaixis we came in sight of the low cape Antonio, which would have proved to Columbus, had he pursued his voyage a few leagues further, that Cuba was no part of his imagined continent. After doubling the cape, we had about one hundred miles to make to windward, before we coUld reach our port. Baffling winds and calms detained us for twa or three days ; oiir last pig and fowl had been eaten ; we were beginning, somewhat seriously to long for the land — when one delightful evening, a favorable breeze sprung up and brought us, under flying colors and full sail, past the Moro castle and lighthouse, into the port of Havana. It was the 9th of the Fourth-month (April.) The scene was very animating and beautiful. The Moro is built on a dark rock, on the left of the entrance ; on a hill above it, stand the Cabanas, a fort of prodigious dimensions, in which is stationed a large body of Spanish soldiers. Report makes the numbers of them in Cuba, not less than fifteen thou- sand — a guard, be it observed, for the protection of the white inhabitants, against their negroes, in a state of slavery j but I have reason to believe that the number of troops is exaggerated: 156 CUBA. Before us lay the wide spreading, old city, said to contain one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants ; a few green hills were seen in the distance ; and when we had passed the Moro, the land-locked port full of shipping, including three British- men-of-war, and surmounted by some handsome public build- ings, were suddenly opened to our view. It is a port of great resort and traffic, far exceeding, in this respect, any other in the dominions of Spain. With the exception of the Governor of Madrid, we continued on board for the night ; and early the next morning, received a notice, that we were all permitted to land, without undergo- ing any of the usual formalities. The British Consul, Charles Tolme, came on board to pay his respects to some of our sister passengers. I found that he was an old friend of mine, whom I had not seen for some thirty years. He gave me a hearty welcome, and accompanied me, on our landing, to the Government House/( as I wished to pay my respects to the Prince of Anglona, the Captain General of Cuba. Our friend Cabrejra had already conveyed to him a letter of introduction which I had brought with me from the Governor of Jamaica ; and I considered that an early call, was due to him from a friend to the slaves, and a Christian minister, whom he had so kindly permitted to land, at all hazards. The Prince, who is one of the old nobility of Spain, is a person of small stature, and by no means imposing in his appearance, but of good tal- ents, and liberal politics. He received us with great politeness, and even apologised to our consul for my having been refused a passport in Jamaica. He spoke French fluently, and talked to us for a few minutes, in a friendly manner. No opportmiity offered for conversation on important topics, and we soon retired. I was afterwards informed tbat it is the uniform practice of the slave traders, both in Porto Rico and Cuba, to fee the respective Governors, pretty largely, for every African imported into those islands. The late Governor of Porto Rico is said to have retired, in consequence, with an immense fortune. The price of CQxmivance, now fixed in Cuba, is reported to be twelve CUBA. 157 dollars per slave. Douceurs of inferior amount are bestowed on subordinate officers ; biit alas ! the profits of the slave trade are such as to render these iniquitous allowances, but a trifling per centage. The streets of the city of Havana, are extremely narrow, and we found the heat oppressive ; but excellent quarters were ob- tained for us at a boarding house kept by an agreeable Ameri- can family of the name of West ; arid locomotion is rendered easy, by the numerous volantes — small one-horse carriages, with overshadowing leather tops and enormous wheels, driven by negro postillions, in high Spanish boots. The streets are thronged by a busy population — all talking Spanish. Every thing in Havana, is entirely foreign to the eye and ear of an Englishman or American, and it was well that our friend Ca- brera had been training some of us to the utterance of a few bro- ken sentences, in the language of the country. In the evening, under the guidance of the British consul's agreeable lady, we visited the Passeo, a public road and pro- menade formed of late years, under the Government of Tacon, a Spaniard of extraordinary energy, who is said to have found Cuba a den of thieves and robbers, and to have left it, when he finally resigned his trust, in comparatively good civil order. He made examples of some notorious offenders of high rank, in- stituted an effective police, built a great prison, and gave much attention to roads and other necessary internal improvements ; but he is said to have been no enemy to the slave-trade. At the end of the Passeo is Tacon's villa and garden — the latter laid out, though on a small scale, after the style of the gardens at Versailles. After a walk through this scene of somewhat formal beauty, we ascended the hill, on which stands Fort Prin- cipe. Here we obtained a noble view of the city, the harbor, the abundant shipping, the Moro castle, the Cabanas on the opposite heights, and the sea as the boundary of the prospect. In gene- ral however the country round Havana, is far from being pictur- esque, and is cultivated chiefly with maize for fodder. Many miles must be travelled inland, before one can reach either a 14 168 CUBA. mountainous district, or those luxuriant fields of sugar-cane,which are managed by a mere process of rattooning, without the insertion of new plants, for twenty, thirty, or even fifty years in succes- sion. Rattooning is the annual raising of fresh canes from the same plant, and the number of years during which it may be carried on, is an index of the strength and richness of the soil. While this process may be continued in Cuba for so great a length of years, the virgin land is so rich, that a mere touch of the hoe, is suflficient to prepare it for the reception of new cane. In most of the British colonies the rattooning lasts only three or four years ; and the ground requires the laborious process of holing, or some adequate substitute, as a preparation for plant- ing. No wonder, therefore, that the sugars of our colonies have always been undersold by the planters of Cuba. The following day. Fourth-month (April) 10th, was one of memorable but painful interest. We were engaged to breakfast with the British consul ; but before going to his house, we availed ourselves of the cool air of the early morning, in order to visit " El jardin del Obispo" — ^the villa and gardens of the late archbishop — which are quite as worthy of inspection as those of the Governor Tacon. The objects which chiefly attracted us there, were the shady avenues of mango trees, a living alligator kept in a small reservoir, and the greater rarity, in a tropical climate, of a cold stream of clear \vater, in which it was a luxury to bathe. At the consul's, we njet Capt. Hawkins, of the Romney man-of-war, stationed in the port of Havana, for tlie reception of the Africans who may be taken out of slave-ships, condemned by the Court of Mixed Commission. As the slave trade of Cuba is now rarely carried on under Spanish colors, neither the judges of that court, nor our friend Capt. Hawkins have much, if any, business ; but they are useful, nevertheless, as watchers of the iniquities of Cuba. After breakfast, we accompanied Capt. Hawkins, and one of his friends, to his home on the waters, and were well satisfied with the ample accommodations, which it is calculated to afford* CUBA. 159 the rescued Africans, whenever such an asylum may be re- quired. The captain and. his friend are deeply and honestly interested in the cause of freedom — no frequent virtue, and no slight praise, in any one who even sojourns at Havana ! After we had examined the ship, he conveyed us, in his boat, on a cruise about the harbor, in order to give us a quiet view of the slavers. Five of them were then stationed there, in the open face of day, notoriously fitted up for the traffic, and ready to slip off for Africa, for fresh supplies of bultos [hales — so the slave merchants call the negroes) so soon as a dark or stormy night should afford them an opportunity of escaping the vigilance of the British cruiser. Snake, then in port at Havana. They con- sisted of two brigs, one of which had already landed three hundred and fifty slaves, the Socorro ship built for one thou- sand ; the Grandes Antillas, for twelve hundred ; and lastly, the notorious Venus, now called La Ducheza de Braganza, Baltimore-built, which had taken iri eleven hundred slaves on the coast of Africa, and after losing two hundred and forty, in the middle passage, had landed eight hundred and sixty in Cuba. We understood that the three larger of these vessels, were intended for Mozambique, on the eastern coast of Africa — a voyage of great length, for which their size peculiarly adapts them. They are fitted up with guns, and like the brigs or schooners, are constructed with consummate art, for the purpose of swift sailing. They are utterly unsuitable for a legitimate commerce. The painful compression of the wretch- ed negroes, in the holds of these vessels, during their voyage across the Atlantic, is too horrible to be described. Surely this traffic is the most odious wickedness that ever disgraced or afflicted mankind ! On our return to the shore, Capt. Hawkins conducted us to the office of the British commissioner, Kennedy, with whom, together with his secretary, we enjoyed the privilege of a full and interesting conversation. He is well informed respecting the iniquities which are practised at Havana, and gave us a sad account both of the slave trade, and slavery, of Cuba. 160 CUBA. The commissioner reckons the number of slaves annually im- ported into Cuba, (chiefly in the immediate neighborhood of Havana,) at twenty-five thousand. On farther inquiry, how- ever, I found they are often landed in creeks and bays, both on the northern and southern coasts, out of the limits of our friend's observation ; and there is reason to believe that his estimate is below the mark. The profits of the trade are from one hundred to two hundred per cent. ; and if only one-third of the negroes, received on the African coast, are brought safely to Cuba, the speculation answers. Hence, it follows, that neither the risks which they run of capture by the British cruisers, nor the deaths of a large proportion of the negroes on the voyage, are circumstances of any importance to the slave-merchant— they require only a moderate insurance. Reckless of every consideration connected either with ho- nesty or humanity, the captains of these slavers often make piratical attacks on each other. I saw a letter from one of them, describing to the slave trading house in Cuba, by which he was employed, his having been forcibly robbed of all his bultos (bales); and of his having replenished Ms vessel, by committing, in his turn, a similar depredation. But the whole affair is one of robbery and murder. Of one feature in the slave trade and slavery of Cuba, I had no knowledge until I was on the spot. The importation consists almost entirely of tnenj and we were informed that on many of the estates, not a single female is to be found. Natural increase is disregarded. The Cubans import the stronger animals, like bullocks, work them up, and then seek a fresh supply. This surely is a sys- tem of most unnatural barbarity. In the afternoon, after an early dinner at the Consul's, we sallied forth on an excursion of rather a delicate nature ; it was to visit the barracoons — receptacles where the newly imported Africans are stowed, and offered for sale. Our two young friends went in one direction ; M. Day and myself, under the guidance of a young Guernseyman, in another. He and I visi^ t^iree out gf six of these establishments, all of them CUBA. 161 being within two miles of the city. They haVe been built, and are cohductedj on private speculation, and although the whole business is utterly illegal, their proprietors set at defiance all notions of shame, or of concealment from the eye of Go- vernment. We were not very successful in our attempt. The first barracoon at which we called, was empty, and after walk- ing over it, we had only to acknowledge that it was commo- dious and airy — for these places, for filthy lucre's sake, are intended to be curative of the effects of the middle passage. At the second, the keeper, who was the friend of our young guide, gave us an equally easy admission. We found in it about forty invalid Africans who had just been imported. They looked emaciated and melancholy. A child lying on a dresser, wrapped in a blanket, was in the article of death. The whole scene, with the exception of an idle laugher, was one of mute sorrow and suffering — heart-rending to ourselves. This barracoon was built to contain one thousand negroes. Just at sundown, we arrived at a third of similar size. It is close by the garden of Tacon, which is a place of constant public resort. It was evidently fiill of negrbes, whose voices we distinctly heard. We walked, unbidden, into the court- yard, and saw the keeper turn the key of the last lock, after having shut them up for the night. Our guide timorously approached the scowling master, and begged admission for us, into the dormitories. He gruffly replied, " No son negros aqui" — there are no negi^oes here. We were therefore obliged to retire, not being much disposed to be ourselves incarcerated in this den of iniquity. On the grass, outside of the gate, however, there were sitting, dressed in coarse shirts marked with the letter D, about forty young men — a lot which had just been selected and purchased. The buyer was standing over them, with a memorandum-book in his hand, viewing them as if they had been oxen. Good cause had -he for an attentive sui-vey of their persons, for he had probably given $400 or $500 per head, for them— from $16,000 to $20,000 for the lot; Work them as he may, we could not conceive that this nefa- 14* 162 CUBA. xious investment in human flesh and blood, could answer his purpose — especially as so large a proportion of these miserable beings die in the seasoning. Our young friends found their way to a fourth barracoon, where they saw several hundred newly imported children. They were in lean condition, and many of them with marks, on their skins, of bruises or blows, probably received from rubbing against the pannels of the ves- sel, in which they had been unmercifully crammed, like herrings in a barrel. We returned to our quarters at night, well satisfied with having seen these horrors, and with the information which a most interesting day had afforded us, but heart-sickened and aflaicted. 0, the unutterable difference between these hapless, hopeless, creatures, and the well-conditioned free peasantry of Jamaica ! The next day was the first of the week. A day of rest and worship, it cannot be said to be at Havana. A certain propor- tion of the population do, indeed, attend the Roman Catholic churches^ with a good deal of decency ; but the mass seems to be given up to the utter neglect of religious duty. No Protes- t^t worship is tc^erated, not even in the house of the British consul. A Friends' meeting may happily be held, by the very few, as well as the multitude ; and in a company of six persons, at our boarding-house, we were permitted to ex- perience some comfort and refreshment, in our usual simple mode of worship. We then placed ourselves under the care of James Norman, a religious merchant of the city, who led us to several of the public institutions — two lunatic asylums, in bad order ; a beneficencia, or endowed orphan house, in which we found about three hundred white children, under pretty good tutelage ; an excellent asylum for lepers of all colors ; and, finally, Tacon's prison, which was filled with eight hundred criminals — one side of the building being appropriated to blacks, the other, to whites. The white population of Cuba, as com- pared to the black, is said to be as one hundred and thirty to one hundred. In the prison, the side allotted to the whites appeared to bQ the more crowded of the two. The pri- CUBA. 163 soners work on the roads and break stone;^^ but when not at work, are locked up, night and day, in large companies, and are left to themselves to grow worse and worse, corrupted, and corrupting one another. Within the walls, we observed a rum- shop, which cannot fail to accelerate the degenerating process. We sincerely felt for an American captain who was shut up with this ruffian multitude. He was once muc^h respected, but had been convicted of secreting money on board his vessel, and after sixteen months of previous imprisonment, (owing, I believe, to his own wish to delay his trial) had been sentenced to be imprisoned here for six years. Miguel de Cabrera kindly un- dertook to lay his case before the Q,ueen of Spain ; and we hope, notwithstanding his acknowledged guilt, he will soon be liberated from his present miserable allotment. The whole scene afforded glaring evidences of the low, and erven desperate^ state of morals in this slave trading community. In the afternoon we were summoned on board the Whitmore, to which we were accompanied by our kind friend, Cabrera^ and the British Consul. After taking an affectionate leave of them, we weighed anchor, and so concluded our interesting- visit of three days to the city of Havana. In consequence, however, of some little nautical accident, we failed to clear the harbor that night, and accordingly availed ourselves of a quiet evening, in holding a religious meeting with our passengers, apart from all disturbing causes. Early the next morning we again passed under the frown of the Moro, and commenced our voyage to Savannah, in Georgia. I know not that I should have troubled thee with this section of our narrative, had I not wished to solicit thy attention to a sub- ject of deep interest and importance, respecting which this short sejour in Cuba, gaVe us an opportunity of obtaining some infor- mation —I mean, American participation in the African slave- trade, I. The building- of the vessels. The slave-traders of Cuba require vessels of pecuhar powers of speed, and otherwise of a 164 CUBA. construction suited to the slave-trade. These vessels the Ameri- cans are preeminently able to build, having at their command, the timber, the capital, and the mechanical skill. The conse- quence is that there is the usual correspondence of the supply with the demand, and nine-tenths of the vessels employed in the Cuba slave trade, have of late years been built in America — chiefly at Baltimore. There cannot be the lea§t doubt that the builders are aware of their intended purpose, the construction of them being decidedly distinguished from the usual form of mer- chant ships. Often they are made to the order of the Spanish slave-trading houses in Cuba, and when built, belong to those houses. Nevertheless, they are furnished with American regis- ters, and Sail to Havana, under American colors. This of course is a fraudulent transaction. In many other cases, they are sent to Cuba on speculation ; and on their arrival there, are sold to the slave-traders as required. II. The abuse of the American flag. The treaty of Great Britain with Spain, A. D. 1835, renders vessels under the Spanish flag, seizable as slavers, even when they have no slaves on board, if they are fitted up, for the traffic, with the usual distin- guishing articles. These are shackles, cutlasses, gunpowder, false decks, gratings, a superfluity of water casks, extra supplies of provisions', (fee. «fcc. Precisely the same regulations, by a late act of Parliament, are made to apply to Portugal, Before that act was psissed, the Spanish slave-traders, in order to avoid the effect of this provision in the .treaty, constantly made use of Portuguese colors and papers. These are often forged at Ha- vana, or otherwise obtained and used in a ficticious and fraudu- lent manner. Notwithstanding the act of Parliament relative to Portugal, the flag of that nation is still preferred to that of Spain ; because when captured under the Spanish flag, the slavers are brought under the notice of the joint-commission court in Havana, and when they are condemned, the parties are heavily fined. The Spanish authorities take care to be well feed for the vessels captured, as well as for the slaves successfully import- ed, and cover their connivance at the traffic, by punishing it se- CUBA. 166 verely, when it is detected. Nevertheless, as neither the Spanish nor the Portuguese flag now afford any protection from the Brit- ish cruisers, recourse is had, to the greatest possible extent, to the flag of the United States. This object is effected by various contrivances. When an American-built vessel is sold to a slave-trading house in Ha- vana, it is often fraudulently transferred at that port, from the master to the mate, and proceeds to Africa under command of the latter, and with American colors and papers. After obtain- ing the wished- for supply of slaves (during which process it still maintains its Americanism) it assumes its Portuguese phase, for which it is secretly prepared at Havana, and returns at a venture, to Cuba — using all its speedy to elude the British cruisers. On the return voyage^ the mate becomes ostensibly a passenger, but in fact retains his command of the vessel. Another cc«itrivance for retaining the American flag, up to the same point in the iniquitous process^ is that of purchasing the Baltimore ship or clipper, deliverable on the coast of Africa — half the price being paid when the bargain is struck, and the other half on her delivery. Under this arrangement, she of course clears out for Africa, with her American registers and under the flag of the Union. When she arrives on the African coast, her registers are cut in halves, and returned by any two conveyances which may offer, to the grantors ; and again the Portuguese phase is assumed, for the return voyage. in. Aid given hy American merchantmen. If, after all, these slave-ships sail from Havana for Africa, under the Spanish or Portuguese flag, they have still another method left of eluding the force of the treaty, or act of Parliament, already described. It is to leave behind them those fittings up, and distinguishing articles, which would lead io their condemnation. In the mean time, these are conveyed by American merchant ships, which come to Havana in ballast, to the slave dep6ts on the African coast, where the Spanish slaver, after an uninterrupted voyage, finds her needful furniture and supplies, ready for her use. And with what cargoes do these American merchant ships (which I 166 CUBA. presume are constructed for the purpose) return from the African coast? Generally, with cargoes of bultos — ^balies — ^living rational beings from Africa, whom they convey to the Spanish colonies — or sometimes probably to Texas — or possibly even to some safe and hidden resort, within the boundary of your own Union. Thou wilt recollect that the slaver, Hound, which landed three hundred and seventy-two slaves in Porto Rico, and the schoon- er we saw in Antigua, which had performed a similar errand, were both American^ and under American colors. Eighteen Such vessels, have lately been reported nominatim^ by the agents of the Colonization Society, as observed on the African coast, in the act of carrying on the slave trade. IV. The involvment of the consular office. The sale of Ameri- can vessels, at Havana, to the slave traders in that city, whether immediate or deliverable at the coast of Africa — the transfer of them from masters to mates — and finally the clearing cut of any vessel under your flag, from Havana for Africa — are all of them transactions which necessarily come under the official notice of the American consulate at that port. We were in- ***-* formed that the late consul was doubly cognizant of them, , because the other side of some of these transactions, must have * come before him in his capacity of Portuguese agent. But cognizance does not prove guilt, and the real question is, whether, under these circumstances, he availed himself of all his opportimities and powers, in order to put a stop to these iniquities. We may charitably hope, that this was the case. I was however grieved to observe, that a public defender of N. P. Trist, in a late anonymous pamphlet published at Boston, acknowledges that the late consul entertains doubts " whether the slave trade, considered in itself is not a positive benefit to its supposed victims." This is a dangerous state of mind for any British or American resident in Havana. I venture, with great deference, to remark, that no persons ought to be permitted to occupy your conj^ular office, in that place, who are not placed far above the reach of Cuban douceurs, not only by CUBA. 167 common honesty, but by a deep, determined, and unalterable, abhorrence of the slave trade in itself. V. The application of capital. That a considerable capital is employed in the different modes of aiding the slave trade which have now been described, and especially in the building of vessels, cannot be denied. But it is commonly reported, I fear not without some foundation, that in some of your commercial cities, American capital is invested in the trade itself — that some unworthy citizens of your republic, are actual and direct participants, both in the carrying on, and in the profits, of this abominable traffic. It appears then first, that a large proportion of the vessels engaged in the Cuban slave trade, are built in the ports of the United States — secondly, that the American flag is borrowed by the Spanish slave traders to a large extent — thirdly, that American merchantmen are engaged, on their own account, in conveying the materials of the slave trade to the coast of Africa — fourthly, that most of these trans- actions pass under the official review of your consulate at Havanei — and fifthly, that American capital is indirectly — possi- bly, directly — engaged in the slave trade to an indefinite extent. I have now laid the whole case before thee, as it has come i'Vithin my own scope of observation and enquiry, and I trust I have done so, with clearness and moderation. When I have stated the same case verbally, to some of the leading men of America, I have been reminded by them of the inconsistency of Englishmen. Certain it is, that the articles used in the slave trade, and often transmitted to Africa on American bot- toms, are manufactured in England, and employ a large amount of British capital. The lamentable fact is, that filthy lucre, is often found too strong for moral principle, on both sides the water. But this, my dear friend, is surely no affair of national rivalry. It is one under the weight of which, the petty jealousy of politics, and even the pride of an honest patriotism, ought to subside into nothing. The virtuous public of both nations, and the governments of both nations, ought surely to unite, 168 CUBA. with the utmost cordiaUty, in their endeavors to extinguish the most inordinate system of cruelty and wickedness that ever stained the annals of mankind. Let America and England fully join issue on this momentous subject — and the work is done. In the mean time, something may, I trust, be effected, by legislative enactment. It seems very desirable firsts that the laws against building ships evidently calculated for the slave trade, and only for this purpose, should be rendered as clear and stringent as possible ; secondly^ that the consular office at Havana, should be armed with greater powers, to stop these iniquitous proceedings in transitu. Such were the conclusions to which our own observation and reflection had brought us ; and we were rejoiced to find, when at Washington, that a bill for these very purposes, had been introduced to Congress, by our worthy friend John Davis, Senator from Massachusetts. I am told that it has since passed into a law. But we con- ceive that preventive measures on the coast of Africa, are still more important. We were informed, on high authority, at Washington, that it was the indefinite extent only, to which the mutual right of search was granted under the presidency of Monroe, that was found to be inconvenient, and led to a change of system on the part of this country ; and that had this mutual right been confined to certain limits near the African coast^ no objection would ever have been m>ade to it. Such being the facts of the case, I would venture to suggest to thy calm consideration, whether within these safe limits, the provision in question might not yet be conceded. There can be no doubt that such a measure, more than almost any other, would facilitate the suppression of the odious traffic. May I venture to entreat thee, to make use of the weight of thy own influence, in favor of the affirmative settlement of this essential point ? Before I leave the subject of Cuba, I think it right to remark, that all persons who visit that island, must be aware of the di;s- tinction between the newly imported slaves, and those who have been bom on the island, or have been long employed in CUBA. 169 the service of their masters. The former, called Bozales, being illegally introduced, are not regarded, by the laws of Spain, as the property of their holders. In the much agitated case of the Amistad, the decision of the local courts of Connecticut, against the delivering up of the slaves, was grounded, as I understand, on the fact that these persons were not Ladinos — i. e. true Cuban slaves — but Bozales, who are no slaves at all, in the eye of the Spanish law. Now we are aware that an appeal has been made, against that decision, to the Supreme Court of the United States. I would remark, that should the decree be reversed, it would have the injurious effect of giving the sanction of the highest legal tribunal of this country, to that shameful traffic by which these miserable men were brought into illegal bondage— m^o the condition of Bozales ; and thus the co-operation of unworthy citizens of the Union, in promoting that traffic, would be encouraged and confirmed. That so great a calamity may be averted, must be the earnest desire of all who wish well to the cause of justice and hu- manity. I am, (fee, &c. 15 LETTER XIV RETURN TO AMERICA. Providence, R. L Seventh-month {July) 3c?, 1840. Mr DBAR FRnao), In order to bring our narrative to a satisfactory close, I must make a few remarks respecting our voyage home, which none of our company are in much danger of forgetting. This was a time, generally speaking, of quiet enjoyment ; though we could not but watch with some sorrow and anxiety, the apparent descent of our two invalids, one of each sex, towards "the valley of the shadow of death." Our course, for the first day, lay to the eastward, and gave us the opportunity of surveying a con- siderable part of the northern coast of Cuba. We obteiined a good view of the entrance of the harbor of Matanzas, about fifty miles east of Havana. The mountains which rise behind it, are of greater elevation than any land in Cuba, which we had before seen. One of them, remarkable for its square outline, recalls the idea of a loaf *of bread, and is called, " El pan de Matanzas." We now took our last leave of Cuba, and turned towards the north-east, our course lying through the channel which separates the dangerous shores of Florida, from the still more fatal rocks of the Bahama Islands. The wind was contrary, and we should have made slow progress, as we beat along from one side of the channel to another, had it not been for the Gulph Stream, which some of us had, more than once, encountered as an enemy, but which now proved an effective friend, in impelling us forward, four knots in the hour, in our right course, by the mere force of its current. This stream, is by the mariners, technically called the " Gulph j" RETURN TO AMERICA. 17l and the following portrait of it, which served to amuse some of our company, is said to be exact. Of all the creatures here below Or virtuous, or vicious, O Gulph of gulphs, full well we know, Thou art the most capricious. We have seen thee locked in a hopeless calm, And tossed with waves prodigious, We have felt thy gentle breeze's balm, And thy fitful blast litigious. We have shuddered at thy ugly frown, When all thy soul was spiteful. And have watched thy malice melting down, To radiant smiles delightful. One moment — all thy charm is gone. Thy looks are most distressing ; The next — thou hast thy dimples on, Each sailor-boy caressing. We have stood aghast at thy leaden vest, Thy darksome shroud of mourning — In ultra-marine, we have seen thee dressed, The heaven and earth adorning. Thy bosom boils with love or hate, As thy restless passions waver ; Thy voice is the thunder of regal state, Or a gentle lady-like quaver. O Queen ! of Premier, under thy reign, Some conjurer holds the station ; His name, we take it, is Legerdemain, And thine is Transmutation. Such are the notorious uncertainties of the Gulph Stream ; and in the channel through which we were now passing, sea- men are often exposed to danger. Many a wreck takes place on either side of it, and only a few days before our voyage, a vessel of considerable size, was found, bottom upwards, on the coast of Florida. For oarselves we passed along, though slowly, yet safely, and found leisure to reflect, that the shores, on either side, were 172 RETURN TO AMERICA. marked by circumstances of a most interesting character. As the low green coast, or keys, of Florida, were gradually deve- loped in our view, it was impossible not to mourn over the Seminole war, undertaken against the unhappy aborigines of the soil, in the support, as we fear, of slavery, conducted at an immense expense of blood and treasure, and now carried on (strange recurrence to ancient barbarism !) by the interven- tion of blood-hounds. The subject, so afflicting in its own particular features, was of course connected in our minds with a general view of that melancholy topic, the maltreatment of the native Indians of North America — witness the cruel banish- ment of the Cherokees, of Georgici, and the projected expatria- tion of the Senecas of New- York, under the color of fraudu- lent treaties, and at the expense of every principle of justice and mercy. I am confident that thy sentiments, on these subjects, are in perfect agreement with our own. Our view of the Bahamas was a very distant one ; but it was enough to remind us of the excellent accounts which we had received, through Sir William Colebrooke, of the favorable working of freedom in those islands. Sir William was their Governor, before he undertook the more important charge of the Leeward Islands ; and while we were with him in Antigua, he received, from a friend whom he had left behind him, the accounts to which we allude. It appears that a large number of recaptured Africans are now settled, as free laborers, on the Island of New Providence, and are conducting themselves well. The same may be said of the former slaves or appren- tices, who are located chiefly on the outer islands of the group. Friendly societies, and other benevolent institutions, are pros- pering ; and free grown cotton is now produced, in the Baha- mas, under the care of the descendants of American loyalists, who settled in that colony, at the time of the revolution. I am reminded by this mention of the Bahamas, of our friend J. C. Calhoun's argument, in the Senate, on the subject of the Comet, the Encomium, and the Enterprise, one of which ves- sels was, if I mistake not, driven by stress of weather^ into a RETURN TO AMERICA. in port of the Bermudas, and the other two wrecked on the Baha- mas — each containing American slaves, on their passage from one of your slaye states to another. As I have not his speech of which he kindly gave me a copy, now before me, I may not be accurate in my recollection of the particulars ; but I think that, in all the cases, the slaves were allowed, by the British authorities of the islands, to avail themselves of the law of the land, and to go free — that, after a^long negociation, compensa- tion was made by our Government for those which were on board the Comet and Encomium, and refused for those in the Enterprise — and that this distinction was grounded on the cir- cumstance that the two former cases had occurred before^ and the last case, after, the British act of emancipation. J. C. Calhoun's argument on the subject, is both interesting and inge- nious. In the first place he plainly shows it to be a settled point, in the law of nations, that when vessels belonging to any nation, are driven by stress of weather into the ports or on to the coasts, of a friendly power, the agents of that power are bound to protect the property/ which they contain , and to deliver it up or make compensation, for it, to its rightful owners. He then argues that, the law of nations cannot change with the municipal laws of individual states ; and therefore, that if Great Britain was bound by the above mentioned principle of international jurisprudence, to make compensation for wrecked American slaves, before her own act of Emancipation, she was equally bound to do so, after that act. All this is very clear • but there is the previous question to be settled, whether the law of nations does in any case, regard, living human beings, as the property/ of other persons. If it does, why is not England bound to restore to America, the runaway slaves who find their way into Canada ;. and to France, the fugitives who come over on aloe-rafts from Guadaloupe to Dominica; and to Denmark, the happy beings who paddle across the water, at night, from St. Thomas or St. John's, to free Tor- tola ? For my^ own part, I conceive that the law of nations re- gards these persons as a third party, possessing distinct rights. 15* 174 RETURN TO AMERICA. of their own. Professing as it does to derive its authority from the law of God, it is, in its own nature, incapable of giving countenance to the notion that rational human beings may- be treated as dumb insensible chattels. If this is a correct view of the case, I think we must conclude that when Great Britain made compensation for the slaves wrecked in the Comet and Encomium, she acted, not in compli- ance with the law of nations, but merely out of shame; because before her own act of emancipation, she was herself acknowledg- ing the property of man in man. But no sooner was this act passed, than she rose to the level of the law of nations, in de- nying the rightful possibility of any such property. From that time forward therefore, she had nothing more to do with making compensation, even to the dearest of her allies,- for wrecked, or runaway, slaves. I trust that these remarks, on subjects of high practical im- portance, suggested by the circumstances of our voyage, will meet, on thy part, with the usual kind reception. But it was not our allotment to pass the whole of our time at sea in easy pleasures, and tranquil reflections. On the 18th of the Fourth- month, (April,) when we were about fifty miles south of Savan- nah, we were overtaken by a fearful storm. About eight o'clock in the evening, we observed some dark clouds over the horizon and summer-like lightning playing, to the North and West; and the moon soon afterwards rose of a blood red color. For some time, we imagined that the clouds were gradually dispers- ing, and we hoped that the electric fluid which was much dif- fused through the atmosphere, would afford us only a succes- sion of beauties to admire. But after about two hours had elapsed, these hopes were annihilated. The clouds met over our heads, and veiled the moon in deep darkness ; the rain poured down in torrents ; the ship flew before the wind ; and 5iwful flashes of forked lightning, with thunder immediately following, gave ample proof, that the weapons of "heaven's artillery," were nigh at hand — even at our doors. Never before had we witnessed such a war of the elements ; but our skillful RETURN TO AMERICA. 175 captain had foreseen our trouble, and our well-prepared ship, with her smallest amount of canvass, moved along" steadily. The discharges of lightning, however, and crashes of thunder, became more and more tremendous, when suddenly the vessel received a terrible shock. Almost all the sailors were knocked down, and as soon as they could find their feet, rushed into the cabin for safety ; one was dragged in, lightning struck, whether to live or die, We knew not. The captain himself received a stroke which left black traces on his legs. Either a blazing rope, or the appearance of it in electric fluid, was seen falling on the deck ; a violent smell of sulphur assailed us ; both the upper and lower cabins were filled with smoke, and it was the general belief and cry, that the ship was on fire. At the same time the cook ran into the cabin, and told us that the hold of the ship (for we were in ballast) was filling rapidly with water. Although our large company was preserved in a good measure of quietness, we could no longer conceal from ourselves that we now were in circumstances of extreme dan- ger. But beyond this climax, we were not permitted to pass. The ship was searched, and no fire w:as discovered ; the water in the hold was found to have flowed only from the hatch way ; the sulphurous smell and smoke gradually vanished ; the storm, after raging for about an hour, rapidly subsided ; the sky became clear; the moon regained her ascendancy; our poor stricken sailor began to recover ; and we were left in quiet possession of ourselves — body and mind unhurt. The next morning we soon detected the effects of the lightning. The sails were pierced with holes, some boxes were demolished, a considerable piece of timber was forced out of the deck, the main-mast was cracked, and the maintop gallant and royal yards, shivered. Surely we had cause for humble thankfulness to the God of nature and of grace — the Controler of storms and thunderbolts, and the Preserver of men. To us it was an agreeable circumstance, that the day after the storm, was the first of the week. At the appointed hour, the ship's company, including the sailors, assembled on deck, 176 RETURN TO AMERICA. under no common feelings of seriousness. The fortieth chap- ter of Isaiah was read to us. Thou wilt perhaps recollect that it begins with the exhortation, " Comfort ye, comfort ye my people ;" and ends with the cheering declaration that, " they who w£dt upon the Lord shall renew their strength ; they shall mount up with wings as eagles ; they shall run and not be weary, and they shall walk and not faint." Afterwards the whole company fell into silence ; and during the solemn hour which ensued, we were reminded of the words of the poet — Unfathomable wonder, And mystery divine ; The voice that speaks in thunder, Says, Christian, I am thine. We were now on soundings, near the coast of Georgia, and on the morrow, Fourth-month (April) 20th, arrived, in peace and safety, at the city of Savannah. So ended, just five months after its commencement, our instructive and interesting West Indian voyage. In concluding this series of letters, for the freedom of which I am ready to make all due apology, I feel disposed to re- mind thee of the declaration of Scripture, that the " heavens and the earth" shall " wax old as a garment," and that " as a vesture" God shall fold them up ; and " they shall be changed." " All the host of heaven," says the prophet Isaiah, " shall be dissolved, and the heavens shall be rolled together as a scroll j and all their host shall fall down, as the leaf falleth off from the vine, and as a falling fig from the fig-tree." " But the day of the Lord," says the Apostle Peter, " will come as a thief in the night ; in the which the heavens shall pass away with a great noise, and the elements shall melt with fervent heat, and the earth also, and the works that are therein, shall be burned up." Again, " the heavens being on fire shall be dissolved, and the elements shall melt with fervent heat." Then, my dear friend, we shall all stand " before the judgment-seat of Christ." The steward shall render up the account of his stewardship j RETURN TO AMERICA. 177 and every one of us must receive, at the holy hands of the Judge of all flesh, " according to the deeds done in his body, whether they be good, or whether they be bad." Earnest and affection- ate are my desires that the distinguished individual to whom these letters are addressed, may then be found to have cleared himself from all stain of slavery. Fervently do I crave that, in that awful day, he may be known to have acted faithfully, during his declining years, in promoting its total extinction, in all his several relations ; — first, as the head of a private family ; secondly, as the most influential individual in the state of Ken- tucky ; thirdly, as the enlightened statesman and patriot of the North American Federal Union ; and lastly, as the friend of all mankind, the citizen of the world at large. Justly applicable to our whole race — to men of every country, clime, and color — is the fundamental principle of your noble constitution, " All men are created equal, and are endowed by the Creator with certain inalienable rights — among which are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness." With much respect and deference, I now bid thee my last farewell. lam, ^c.^c. APPENDIX A, LETTER FROM DR. DAVY, CUSTOS OF MANCHESTER, ADDRESSED TO S. W. GRANT, STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE. Devon Penn^ August 20, 1839. " Sir, — You ask my opinion as to the state of things at the expiration of the first year of freedom. I give it with much satisfaction, because I from the first had favorable anticipations ; the result, so far as my observation and experience extend, has issued in a far greater measure of success than I hoped, or con- sidered possible. " When I consider how general the impression w£is, that during the first year nothing would be done by the laborers — that, in fact, the crops would be lost ; when I remember with what confidence, confusion and outrage were predicted, and thefts and all kinds of crime were anticipated ; when I contrast these impressions and these anticipations of evil, with the actual state of things at the present moment, I feel justified in assert- ing that, whether it be tested by the best hopes of the most san- guine, or by the worst fears of the most desponding, an unexpect- ed measure of success has attended the first year of freedom. " I speak of circumstances which have come under my own observation, and I am bound to say that the conduct of the peasantry has been most exemplary — their demeanor is most respectful — and their moral improvement most striking. " The records of our local courts, and of our courts of quar- ter sessions, prove an extraordinary diminution of crime. 180 " In my intercourse with them, I find them honest in theif dealings, faithful and diligent in the performance of their duties^ and the fulfilment of their contracts. " With respect to the labor performed, I verily believe that more labor has been done, but by fewer hands, than during the latter part of the apprenticeship. Properties are not only cleaner, than they were at the corresponding period last year, but 1 believe pruning has been very generally effected. " With reference to property under my inynediate superin- tendence, work has been completed which could not have been attempted. In addition to pruning and cleaning coffee, I have been able to build and rebuild stone walls, to clean pastures, and to reopen those that had gone into a state of ruinate. " In the payment of rent, I find the people honest and punc- tual. This is a matter which (as might have been expected) created some confusion and misunderstanding at first, but I believe now there are few instances, where it is made a money charge on fair and legal terms, that much difiiculty is expe- rienced in its collection. " Under these circumstances, I hesitate not to say that much, very much, has already been gained by the abandonment of the apprenticeship, and the substitution of free and unrestricted freedom, and that if we continue to progress in the same ratio, people will be compelled to rejoice in the change. " It may not be useless to observe under what disadvantages, whatever of success has attended the past year, has been ob- tained. Political disputes with the mother country, have agitated the proprietary body, and calumnies the most ground- less, and vituperation the most violent, have been directed against the laborers, who, in the absence of effective laws or physical force to direct or restrain them, have conducted them- selves in a quiet, peaceable, and honest manner.'* APPENDIX B. RECONCILIATION RESPECTFULLY RECOMMENDED TO ALL PARTIES IN THE COLONY OF JAMAICA, IN A LETTER ADDRESSED TO THE PLANTERS. ' The prosperity of Jamaica is unquestionably an object of equally deep interest to persons, in other respects, of very dif- ferent views — persons who are ranged on opposite sides of politics even at the present time, and who, during the agitation of the great question of the abolition of British colonial slavery, were often brought into severe conflict with each other. Those were days of peculiar excitement ; and it is possible that on both sides of the question, ruflaed temper may sometimes have led to angry and extravagant expression, and even to exagge- rated statement. But on a calm review of the system which is now happily exterminated, I presume we are all prepared to allow that, both in its origin and operation, it was opposed to the rule of right — that although often kindly conducted, it was liable to fearful occasional abuse — and that a deliverance from it is a blessing, in various important respects, to all the parties concerned. As matters now stand, it is surely desirable that slavery, with its whole vocabulary, and with all the angry feelings to which it gave rise, should, so far as relates to the British colonies, be buried in oblivion, and that Jamaica should hereafter be treated and thought of only as a colony of free men, of different com- plexions indeed, but of equal rights and privileges, as citizens 16 182 ^1^ of the British empire. This grand truth being in the first place settled — fully and freely acknowledged and appreciated — it follows, as a clear consequence, that all classes of the community ought now to unite, heart and hand, in promoting the prosperity of this noble colony. Prosperity is a word of large meaning; — it embraces the intellectual, moral, and spiritual, as well as temporal, welfare of the people ; but for the present I confine my remarks to temporal welfare. All parties ought now to unite in promoting the coming of the day (as I believe not far distant, for we already see the dawn of it) when the merchantmen which frequent the harbors of Jamaica, shall be multiplied — when her staple productions of sugar and coffee shall more than recover their former amount — when abundance of free-grown cotton shall be added to the list — when vegetable provisions shall be poured forth, at a cheap rate, from the mountains into the towns — when floclcs of sheep, as well as yet larger herds of oxen and kine, shall cover the pastures — when, in fact, one of the most favored and delightful spots on the globe, shall be distinguished by a corresponding superiority in the wealth and substantial comfort of its inhabitants. This great object cannot be otherwise than interesting — First, to the planters, whether residents on the island or absen- tees, whether proprietors of the soil, or tenants of estates, or managers only of the property of others. Their profits ob- viously depend on the success of our great experiment— on the realizing of the desired result, Secondly, to the merchants and storekeepers. The thrift of these persons, depends on the thrift of others — their increase of wealth, on a corresponding increase of it throughout the population. Thirdly, to the laborers. To spealc of the prosperity of Ja- maica, is chiefly to speak of their prosperity, for they and their families constitute nine-tenths of the whole community. It is delightful to believe that their domestic comforts are increased and increasing, or rather multiplied and multiplying, under 183 freedom-— most gratifying to visit their little freeholds in many- parts of the island, and to know that even now, as a body, they are by no means destitute of wealth. But experience amply proves, that by far the surest resource, for the maintenance and improvement of these privileges, is regular wages for regular work. Upon the prosperity of their employers, therefore, es- sentially depends their own. Fourthly, and lastly, to the abolitionists — to those of every rank and class, who long, pray, and labor, for the extinction of slavery all the world over. The eyes of France, Denmark, Spain, Portugal, Brazil, and, above all, North America, are fixed on the British West-Indian colonies, and chiefly on Jamaica. It is of primary importance to the cause of freedom under all these governments, that Jamaica should prosper. I mean, prosper pecuniarily. It is in vain that we address argu- ments on the plea of moral or religious principle alone, to per- sons who have long been habituated to slaveholding. as part and parcel of their circumstances, and almost of their existence. We must at the same time make an appeal to their self-interest. We must prove, by the example of such a region as Jamaica, that free labor is more economical and productive than slave labor, and that the just and equal liberty of all the citizens of a state, has an unfailing tendency to increase its wealth. If the view now taken is correct — and I believe it cannot be disputed — it certainly follows that planters, merchants, la- borers, and philanthropists, are bound by the most obvious principles of reason and common sense, to unite their efforts in promoting the prosperity of Jamaica. There is, , however, a specific point which, at the present time, peculiarly demands such an union of effort. I mean the prevention of the proposed equalization of the sugar duties. The duty now levied in England, on sugars hot produced in our own colonies, amounts to a prohibition ; and thus the whole market of our country is open exclusively to the sugar growers of those colonies. Once equalize that prohibitory duty with the lower duty charged on the sugar produced in these 184 islands, and immediately there will be a vast influx into Great Britain and Ireland, of the sugars of Cuba, Brazil, Louisiana, &c. The inevitable consequence will be that the sugars of Jamaica will lose their market, or will fall to a price which cannot remunerate the planter. The next link in the chain of disaster will be a large one. The planter will withdraw from the production of sugar, and will undergo great difficulty in his attempts to apply his grounds and apparatus to any other purpose. In the meantime the laborer will lose his employ- ment and his wages ; the merchant and shopkeeper will find their resources of profit suddenly cut off; and, lastly, the aboli- tionist will discover, to his dismay, that a fresh impetus of vast force is given to slavery and the slave-trade, by the opening of a new market of incalculable value, to the producers of slave- grown sugar. Let not the reader for a moment imagine that this view of the effect of the proposed equalization, is grounded on the notion that slave labor is superior, in point of cheapness, to free labor. Abundant are the evidences which have been afforded me, both here and in other islands of the West Indies, that the contrary is the fact. But there is a vast difference in different regions, as to the capacity of producing sugar at a cheap rate ; and long before freedom was enacted, the protect- ing duties were in force, to prevent a ruinous competition be- tween the sugars of Jamaica, &c., and the cheaper article produced in Cuba and elsewhere. There is said to be a great saving to the colonists of Cuba and Forto Rico, in the expense of producing sugar, not only from the peculiar nature of the soil, which requires, for its cultivation, a small comparative amount of labor, but from the inexpensive charactei; of their buildings and works ; also from the circumstance that the pro- prietors are generally resident on the spot ; and there is reason to believe that these persons are satisfied with a lower rate of profit than falls to the lot of the British proprietor, When the energies of freedom are fully developed, they will, I trust, enable Jamaica to cope even with those natural inequalities^ 185 which, at present, give an advantage to other sugar-growing regions. In the meantime it is evidently incumbent on the planters and the abolitionists, to lay aside their former jealousies, and to unite in petitioning parliament against the proposed equaliza- tion. Their joint appeal, supported as it obviously is by the common principles of justice, as well as those of mercy, could scarcely fail to be effectual. With regard to the laborers, they ought to be informed how greatly the success of such an appeal must depend upon their exertions. The consequence of a diminished supply of sugar from our colonies, is the undue rise of the price of the article at home. Then follows, on the part of a vast manufacturing and agricultural population, a most natural clamor for cheap sugar j and from that clamor may as naturally arise a yielding on the part of our rulers, and, finally, the equalization of the duties, with all its fearful results. Here then is a stimulus to continuous labor in the production of sugar, which may most legitimately be brought home to the understanding and feeling of every peasant in the West Indies. I am confident that thousands of them in Jamaica, would prove themselves to be very much alive to such a stimulus. They are not only watchful over their own interests, but know how to feel for the woes of their brethren in other parts of the world. In thus stating the grounds on which I feel the necessity of a hearty union of all parties in Jamaica, in promoting the temporal welfare of the island, I am far from intending to insinuate that the elements of prosperity, in this colony, are not already powerfully at work. — That they are at work, under the sway of freedom, to an extent, and with an energy, which will soon produce conspicuous results, I have not the smallest doubt. Numerous are the acknowledgments which I have myself received from planters, both of sugar and coffee, that the present diminution of produce on their estates has arisen from causes which have now ceased, or are subsiding ; and that they are looking forward toa decided increase of produc- 16* 186 tion for the future. In the mean time, new houses are build- ing, new villages appearing, the towns improving, trade increasing, the mass of the population flourishing, the imports nearly doubling themselves, property rising in value, and the cultivated parts of the country wearing an appearance of clean- liness and order, in connection with fair crops, which bespeaks any thing rather than decay and ruin. — These indications are exceedingly cheering. At the same time, it cannot be denied that many parts of Jamaica are still grievously perplexed by a want of a good understanding between parties^ i. e. between the planters, on the one hand, and the laborers and their support- ers and advisers (call them, if you please, the abolitionists) on the other. What then can be more ohviously desirable, than the removal of all misunderstandings, and a perfect and absolute reconcilia- tion between these parties ? That matters, in this respect, are already ameliorated, cannot be doubted. The silent influence of a common interest has already been found efficacious, to a great extent, in quelling the heats of passion and prejudice, and in inducing better feelings and juster views of each other, both in masters and servants. But mischief is still at work * and the discord which continues to subsist must cease and be extinguished, before Jamaica can prosper in the degree which her unquestionable resources fairly lead us to anticipate. Now, in order to this perfect reconciliation and good under- standing, we must all endeavor to lay aside the feelings of prejudice and animosity ; to bear and forbear one with another,, and to put the best construction in our power on each other's actions. — But deeply as I feel the importance of such a course^ nothing is farther from my view than to recommend concessions of principle. The more I reflect on the subject, the more satisfied I am that such concessions would only involve an increase of perplexity and distress. The rule of rights is the rule of safety, and the road to peace. The ground for that unity of purpose and action, which would so greatly promote the prosperity of this colony, must be; 187 laid in those 'broad principles which none can deny, and must be cleared by the removal of all infractions of pure justice, in whatsoever quarter these may have arisen, and in whatsoever direction they may be operating. Since my lot has been cast on this island, I have taken many opportunities, in large public assemblies of the people, of impress- ing upon the peasantry, the Christian duty of rendering unto all men their due ; and especially of giving fair work for fair wages. I have endeavored to show them that this fair work, which justice requires at their hands, is not only work well performed in the detail, but that measure of continuous labor for which their services are hired, and which they know to be necessary in the cultivation of the staple articles exported from this colony. I must do them the justice to say that, so far as my observation has extended, they are alive to this moral view of the case ; for I have with pleasure observed that these senti- ments, when fairly laid before them, have met, on their parts, with an intelligent and friendly acquiescence. I wish to avoid any exaggerated statement on this subject ; but from the nume- rous testimonies which I have received, from most respectable members of your body, I think I am justified in the conclusion, that the peasantry of this island have a better understanding now, than they had a year ago, of their true position, and of the duties required at their hands ; and that, for the most part, they are working, both on the sugar and coffee estates, to the increasing satisfaction of their employers. I have lately been engaged in a visit to several of the islands to the windward — Tortola, St. Christopher's, Antigua, and Dominica ; and I am happy to inform you that in these and the neighboring islands, the peasantry are working well — I may almost say, without any exception. I trust that the same good report may now be made, to a very great extent, of the people of Jamaica ; and that the exceptions which still exist, may be traced to peculiar circumstances which will soon disappear and be forgotten. In the mean time, I consider it to be a duty incumbent on all pas- tors and teachers of the laboring class, whether Churchmen or 188 Dissenters, to impress upon their minds their moral obligations as cultivators of the soil ; to explain to them on what grounds, and in what way, they are required, in the sight of the Judge of all flesh, to render to their employers, fair work for fair wages. Having thus stated fully the view which I take of the justice of the case, as it relates to the laborers, I am confident you will kindly bear with me, while I endeavor to develop what I believe to be the rule of rights as it regards the land owner, the planter, the employer. I make this attempt under the feelings of respect and Christian charity, and with ardent good wishes for your temporal, as well as spiritual welfare. We all know that the abolition of slavery, by the imperial act of emancipation, was totals that it bestows upon the people once in bonds an absolute freedom — a perfect equality, in point of civil right, with the other subjects of the British empire. Since this act has become the law of the empire, all the dueen's subjects are bound, on moral and Christian principle, to maintain its grand provisions, and to abstain from all con- travention of them in practice. It cannot, I trust, be offensive, on my part, to observe that this moral obligation rests, in full force, upon the planters of our West-Indian colonies, not only on the general ground of subjection to the laws of the empire, but on the specific ground, also, of their having received twenty millions of pounds sterling from the public purse, as a compen- sation for their slaves. I just take the liberty of stating, in passing, that so far as my little influence extended, I was never opposed to that liberal grant of money, and I may say the same of some intimate friends and connections of mine, well known 05 friends to the abolition of slavery, in the British parliament. Now the very essence of slavery is compulsory labor. — I apprehend that I can make no mistake in asserting that all attempts to compel labor, be tliey weak, or be they stringent, be they temperate, or be they violent, are opposed to the true meaning and purpose of the act of emancipation, and to the 189 principles of justice as they bear on the circumstances of the case. One of the methods which has been resorted to in this island, for compelling work, is the mixture of the question of tenure, with that of labor ; and I am confident th^t a little calm reflec- tion will serve to convince any man, that such a mixture is not only at variance with the common-place rules of political economy, but also with the rule of right. It is a system which classes under slavery, and isr in its nature opposed to that law of liberty in which, I trust, we all now rejoice. Allow me to explain myself A planter of Jamaica, at the close of the apprenticeship — ^the date of full freedom by law — • finds himself in possession of a number of cottages and pro- vision-grounds, occupied by certain freemen, who, I suppose, in such a case, might be regarded as tenants at will. — Allowing some short interval for the almost inevitable temporary unset- tlement, it must soon become evident that something is due to the planter, in return for such tenancy. — Now, what is that something, according to universal principles which regulate the relations of landlord and tenant? Certainly not labor — much less a personal restriction to work on a particular spot — but a fair rent — such a rent as represents the true money value of the property tenanted. This is the only quid pro quOj as I con- ceive, which justice can demand on the occasion. To require of the tenant the regular pa^nnent of such a rent, and legally to eject in case of the non-payment of it, are neither of them proceedings to whiph any reasonable objection can be urged. But to require not merely that the tenant should pay rent, but that he should work on a certain estate, at a certain rate of wages, and for a certain number of days in the week, and to eject him if these latter provisions are not complied with — appears to me to be unjust in principle — a recurrence, as far as it goes, to the old system of slavery. It is the compel- ling of labor by a penal infliction. I presume that ejectments from tenements on the ground now mentioned, cannot be legal ; and it appears that the object has, 190 in many cases, been effected by manual force. Cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees have been felled— cottages have been unroofed and sometimes demolished— pigs have been shot — provision- grounds have been destroyed — the pleasant fruits of God's earth, uprooted by the rude hand of violence, or trodden under foot of oxen. 1 conceive that such acts of spoliation are, in point of fact, nothing more or less than substitutes for the cart-whip. Notorious as the facts are to which I have now alluded, I men- tion them, because necessary to be mentioned, and with no other than Christian feelings towards those who have perpetra- ted them. Sure I am, that such proceedings must be abhorrent to the feelings of the generality of those persons whom I am now addressing, as well as to my own. * Another method of compelling labor has been the arbitrary increase of rents, with distraint, imprisonment, and ejection in the train, in case of their not being paid. A laborer on a cer- tain estate is under an agreement with its manager, to pay two shillings sterling per week as rent for his house and ground. Some cause of dispute and dissatisfaction arises with regard to his labor, and the rent is immediately raised, by way of penal exaction, to twice, thrice, or four times the amount; or strange to say^ it is demanded for his wife and each of his children, respectively, as well as for himself He of course is unable to pay it. Complaint is made against him by the overseer to some of the magistrates in the neighborhood ; the debt is adjudicated to be a valid one ; his goods are distrained ; and if there be a deficiency, in the amount thui? levied, to pay the debt and the fees, he is imprisoned for ten days : — But this is not all ; after he has been discharged, the remainder of the debt still hangs over his head, and whenever his petty articles of comfort and con- venience again accumulate, he may be exposed to another dis- traint. In case of his removing any of his goods to avoid the effect of this second seizure, he is liable as a fraudulent debtor to imprisonment, at the discretion of the magistrates, for any term not exceeding three months ; and any members of his family who assist him in so doing may be subjected to the same pun- 191 ishment. Now all this is monstrous. It is a screw of pro- digious power, of which the obvious application is to compel labor ^ or in other words to reduce free men, a second time, to slavery. I can easily believe that the individuals who have resorted to this system of penal and fictitious rents, have met with their difficulties and their provocations ; but I am ready to believe that a calm review of the subject, has already convinced some of them that such exactions serve no good purpose — that they are wrong in principle, and calamitous, in their results, to all the parties concerned. I do not consider it to be my province to enter into a discus- sion of the laws which have been enacted in this colony, during the last few months ; but I cannot, with a good conscience, refrain from expressing my own opinion, that some of these provisions have an unfavorable bearing on the cause of equal rights and unrestricted freedom. It is unquestionable that the act for the recovery of petty debts, affords great facilities for the line of proceeding which I have now described. On visiting the gaol of one of the parishes, a few days since, I was alarmed by ob- serving, that whereas the number of debtors confined in it, dur- ing the whole of 1839, was only 12 ; more than double that number, viz. 25, had passed through that prison since the com- mencement of 1840— that is, in a little more than two months. Of these, 16 were rent cases, under the petty debt act. If such be the operation of this act in a single parish, what must it be in the whole of Jamaica ? Are we to forget that to cast a free laborer into prison — even for ten days — is to break down his respectability, and to undermine his moral worth, as a citizen of the state ? I own I tremble, when I look at the too probable case of a free laborer who cannot agree with his master respecting the terms and duration of his weekly labor. He may be charged one of these penal and fictitious rents. Under the petty debt act he may be despoiled of his goods, and imprisoned for a short period. Driven from his home by repeated vexations, or legally 192 expelled from it by his employer, he may be found traversing the country in search of a new location, or sleeping at night on the road's side, in the open air. Under the police act, he may then be questioned and seized by an armed watchman ; £ind finally, under the vagrant act, he may be punished with sixty . days' imprisonment, and hard labor in a penal gang. If these things are so, what is his alternative ? It is to yield to the com- pulsion, to comply with the requirements of his employer, and to labor against his own free will, for such wages, and for so many days and hours in the week, as his master may see fit to dictate. This surely is a perfect contravention of the intent and purpose of the imperial act of emancipation. In plain English, it is slavery. That these laws may serve some good purposes, is probable ; that the design of those who framed them may have been good, I am quite willing to suppose ; but that they are capable of an abuse most dangerous to the cause of justice and liberty, and therefore to the tranquillity and welfare of Jamaica, is to me a point which admits of little question. Most earnestly do I crave the watchful care of all persons of influence in the island, in guarding against that abuse. Once suffer it to prevail, and our bright and pleasant hopes of the prosperity of Jamaica, are dashed to the ground. The injustice of attempts to compel the labor of freemen, is equalled only by its impolicy. The estates on which they have been practised, are precisely those which are the most exposed to perplexity, desertion and decay. On the contrary, where rent and wages have been kept entirely distinct, and have each been settled at the fair market value, ease and prosperity have, in general, been the happy consequence. Little difl5culties may indeed have occasionally arisen ; but these have been over- borne by the superior influence of wholesome and undeniable practical principles. Am I wrong in venturing upon the asser- tion, that. wherever the laborers have been/air/y, kindly y and wisely treated, there they have been working well, and all things prosper ? Certainly, my friends, there is a native virtue 193 in universal freedom, which, when suffered to act without re- striction, and under the blessing of Divine Providence, cannot fail to diffuse innumerable advantages, and to make a very- wilderness of thorns and briars "blossom as the rose." Taking it for granted then, that both justice and policy dic- tate a total surrender of every contrivance to compel the labor of the peasantry, what are the means of which we are left in possession for procuring that labor ? I answer : First of all — fair though not extravagant wages, paid with undeviating regularity, at a stated hour, once every week, and paid without any reference whatsoever to rent The more I inquire into the difficulties which have arisen on some properties in Jamaica, the stronger is my conviction of the importance of the regular and frequent payment of wages. A credit in account has a much weaker influence as a stimulus to action, especially on uneducated minds, than money placed in the hand. Lately emerged, as they are from a state of slavery, the laborers of Jamaica may at present be unduly prone to feelings of suspicion. This want of confidence, aris- ing so naturally out of their circumstances, may greatly under- mine the influence of wages, as a stimulus to labor, when paid irregularly, or at long intervals. It is of primary importance, for the correction of this want of confidence, and for a corres- ponding certamty in obtaining continuous work, that as soon as his silver bits can be legally demanded by the laborer, so soon they should be willingly and regularly placed in his hands. Secondly — task or piece work. I have enjoyed the satisfac- tion of observing the admirable eflfect of this arrangement of labor in other islands, especially in Antigua eind Dominica ; and I am heartily glad to find, that it is increasingly prevalent in Jamaica. It is most desirable for the master — enabling him to obtain his work, at the same ultimate expense as by day- wages, and with greater ease, from fewer hands, and in a shorter period of time. It is equally desirable for the laborer, who doubles his wages by it. It is, in fact, a point of settlement and rest for both parties. 17 194 Thirdly- — ^leasehold and freehold settlements for the laborers. Nothing has yielded me more satisfaction, in this and other islands, than visiting the newly settled free villages, which are now becoming increasingly common. I have found industrious families, inhabiting creditable houses, built by their own hands, and surrounded by small plots of land well cultivated with pro- visions ; the whole occupation being their own purchased free- hold. I have uniformly inquired whether they still work for wages on the neighboring estates, and with a single exception, arising out of a peculiar circumstance, I have received a clear affirmative answer. Here the laborers are perfectly independent ; and they work for wages on the estates, for the obvious and sufficient reason, that it is their interest to do so. Now I venture to suggest that the same system might be most beneficially applied within the compeiss of particular estates. I hold that it would be wise and prudent, on the part of plant- ers, to give to their laborers an independent settlement, within the bounds of their own properties. This object might be ef- fected in two ways — either by leasing to them their houses and provision-grounds on a moderate rental for a suitable term — say, not less than three years, or, what would be still better, by sel- ling them little freeholds, large enough for their convenience, but not so large as to divert their attention from daily labor on the estate. I have rejoiced to hear that this plan has been adopted by several proprietors, who have ordered a large num- ber of comfortable cottages to be built on their estates, and then to be let or sold^ with one or two-acre plots of ground, to the laborers. There can be little doubt oi their securing, by this means, a population at home^ which will at all times afford them a sufficiency of labor. I am aware that this arrangement re- quires a decided confidence in the laborer, on the part of the master. But this confidence will not fail to excite a correspond- ing feeling in the mind of the former ; it will be sure to meet with its abundant reward. Fourthly and lastly, Christian education. I am not igno- rant of the cry which was once raised, and which is still some- '*=* 195 times heard, in this country, against many serious and devoted ministers of religion, of various denominations. — But I am per- suaded that a better feeling towards them is gradually diffusing itself. Certain it is that in those districts of the country, where Christian education is going forward, and a decided religious in- fluence is extended over the people, we find the greatest degree of intelligence, order, comfort, and industry. The principles of our holy religion are, in fact, the only radical cure for the vices, follies, and conseqaent miseries, of mankind. Fervently is it to be desired, that man of all parties in Jamaica, may cordially embrace those principles themselves, and as cordially endeavor to diffuse them among others. This is the soundest wisdom, temporally and politically, as well as spiritually. — This is the surest of all pathways to peace and prosperity. I heartily hope that the hints which I have so freely thrown out, in this address, will meet with a calm consideration, and kind reception. They are dictated by no party spirit, but by the feeling of sincere good will for all classes of the people in this delightful island. The views which I have endeavored to lay before you are 'practical^ and if fairly acted on, would, as I believe, be found beneficial to the whole community. In the mean time may we all " put on charity, which is the bond of perfectness." " Charity suffereth long and is kind ; charity envieth not ; vaunteth not herself ; is not puffed up ; doth not behave herself unseemly ; is not easily provoked ; seeketh not her own ; re- joiceth not in iniquity, but rejoiceth in the truth, &c." That this cardinal virtue may spread through the length and breadth of Jamaica, Is the hearty desire and prayer Of your Sincere friend and well-wisher, Joseph John Gurney. APPENDIX C. EXTRACTS PROM A PAMPHLET ENTITLED " FREE AND FRIENDLY REMARKS, ON A SPEECH LATELY DELIVERED TO THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES, BY HENRY CLAY, OP KENTUCKY, ON THE SUBJECT OF THE ABOLI* TION OF NORTH AMERICAN SLAVERY." The following remarks (extracted from the above mentioned pamphlet,) will, I trust, be sufficient to show, that the two prin- cipal measures called for at the hands of the Federal Govern- ment, in the cause of Emancipation, are in perfect consistency both with the rules of justice and equity, and with the articles of the Constitution. " If this is a correct view of the subject, (and it is the view of a calm bystander, who earnestly craves the welfare of all the parties concerned,) the question immediately arises. What is the first step which the federal government of the United States may best adopt, in order to this grand end ? To me it appears that the first step ought to be the abolition of slavery in the District of Columbia. I am aware that the Senate has already passed a resolution against this measure, and that the very petitions of the people, in furtherance of it, are excluded, by a provision which Henry Clay himself allows to be uncon- stitutional, from the consideration of the legislature. I lament that Congress has thus, for the present, debarred itself from that free discussion of the subject, which would lead to a development of the merits of the case. But I venture to be- lieve that the more the point is considered by individual enquir- ers, the more general will the conviction become, first, that this 197 measure is fair ; and secondly, that it is desirable and even necessarj/. " On a reference to Sec. viii. Art. 17, of the (Jjpnstitntion of the United States, I find,it stated that " Congress shall have the power to exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whatso- ever, over such district, (not exceeding ten miles square,) as may, by cession of particular states, and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of the government of the United States." " The words of this provision are obviously strong and com- prehensive. I think it probable that the peculiar subject, either of the abolition or non-abolition of slavery, may not have been contemplated, when the article was formed ; but if either of these things was in view with the framars of the article, one must conclude from the words " in all cases whatsoever" that ^ there was a design to include, rather than exclude, the aboli- tion of slavery. Had there been entertained any secret reserve on this particular point, it is scarcely to be believed that expres- sions would have bean adopted, so full, so explicit, so com- pletely applicable to this, as to any other change, which Con- gress might deem advisable, in the internal regulation of the District to be cedad, I perfectly agree, however, with Henry Clay, in the opinion, that the true and simple intent of this article was, to give to Congress full power to effect any regula- tions in the District, which would render it suitable as the seat of government of the people of the United States — that great, free, and happy nation, which I trust is yet destined to afford the world anl^xample of the blessed union of public prosperity with public virtue. " No sooner was the District of Columbia placed under the sole legislative control of the federal union, than Congress, and through Congress, the nation at large, became morally respon- sible for the consistency of the laws and custom? of that District, with the principles of justice and mercy. It is aston- ishing that the enlightened statesman with whom I am ventur ing to argue, should confine his view of this subject, to the 17* 198 mere question of the convenience of Congress, and the personal accommodation of its members. Higher and larger interests are liere at stake. In the circumstance that in the District which surrounds the Capitol, six thousand persons are pursuing their daily labors in the character of slaves, there is indeed nothing which affects the personal ease of the debaters within the Bouse. Nay, there is nothing to interrupt their discussions, or even to mar the pleasures of their social intercourse, in the notorious facts, that a prison, strictly belonging to the govern- ment, is sometimes used as a jail for the stowage of negroes for sale — ^that human beings are publicly sold by auction, in the streets of Washington — and that companies of our colored brethren, chained together by the neck, are marched, through that city, to the Southern States, without let or hindrance. " But these are facts which, taking place at the seat of govern- ment, and under the sole control and responsibility of Congress, involve the American people, as a nation, in the guilt of slavery ; they degrade her character in the view of the nations of the earth, by affording a palpable contradiction to the principles on which her constitution was founded ; and, worst of all, they have a direct tendency to separate her from the favor of that perfectly righteous Being on whom the welfare of nations depends. On the simple ground therefore, of the true meaning of this article in the constitution, (viz. that the legislative con- trol of Congress over the District, should be fully and freely exercised, in all cases which apply to its suitability as a seat of government for the confederate nation,) it seems unquestionably to follow that the abolition of slavery, within these limits, is matter of fairness to the states by which the District was ceded, as well as of justice to the nation herself. And, further, the very same considerations which evince such a measure to be fair, afford abundant evidence that it is desirable and necessary — necessary to the comfort, the reputation, and the true pros- perity of the Union. ** I am perfectly aware that, according to the present constitu^ tion of the United States, the general government has no po^ver 199 over the internal constitutions of its component republics, in their individual and separate capacity. Should Congress, however, be induced to pay its debt of justice to the slave population of the District, and of Florida, it may be hoped that considerable effect would be produced on the legislatures of the slave states, hy the force of example. An example of public virtue, in which the slave states themselves, as part of the Union, would have their share., could scarcely fail to operate on the more enlightened and reflecting part of their own citizens. " For my own part, I entertain a firm belief that this example would be rendered efficacious, not only by the perfect harmless- ness of the measure of immediate abolition, but by its beneficial results. Florida might present a useful pattern to the states in which the colored population is large, in proportion to the white inhabitants ; and the District would, as I believe, afford a proof to Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee, and Kentucky, that they might abolish their slavery with pro- priety and safety. Kentucky would then no longer be afraid to make those changes in her constitution, with a view to emanci- pation, which her distinguished Senator, (in contradictiort to his good old character of a friend to universal freedom,) db- clares himself to have been lately engaged in preventing. " But there is one step for the benefit of the slaves throughout the Union, which Congress appears to have a constitutional right to take, and which would operate with more than the force of mere example. While the internal institutions of the states, in their individual and separate capacity, are out of its reach, it has the power " to regulate commerce with foreign nations, and amiong the several_ states, and with the Indian Tribes." — Constitution^ Sec. viii. Art. 3. Notwith> standing Henry Clay's objections, it appears to me, on calm and deliberate reflection, that Congress has therefore power to put an end to free America's chief disgrace — namely, her internal traffic in slaves. " The plea which he urges against this inference from the article on commerce, is double ; — first, that this alleged trafl&c is 200 « *■ not commerce at all, but is only to be regarded as the "removal" of slaves from one state to another ; and, secondly, that if it were commerce, the power of the federal government would extend only to the regulation of it. It is a power to regulate^ not to annihilate ; and he has declared his judgment, that it would be no more competent to Congress to prevent Maryland and Virginia from supplying the South with slaves, than to pre- vent Ohio from supplying the East with live stock. " This comparison affords an affecting instance of the facility with which, under the prevailing influence of slavery, even enhghteued men are indticed to forget the impassable distinc- tions between human beings of a color different from their own, and the beasts which perish. But it is, nevertheless, an apt comparison, as evincing the true nature and character of that which 4s called, by this statesman, the removal of slaves. The fact of the case undoubtedly is, that this removal is as strictly and properly a traffic — a branch of the commerce among the states of this Union — as is the " removal" of live stock from Ohio to Pennsylvania or Maryland. In both cases, the living creatures, which form the article of traffic, are first raised, or bred, by the land-owner or farmer ; secondly, sold to the mer- chant or jobber ; thirdly, driven .under his orders to their place of destination, and fourthly, resold to the user ov consumer. It is impossible to conceive of anything more regularly a traffic^ than is this " removal" of oxen from Ohio, and of " slaves" from Maryland. It is a trade in the animal productions of the earth, precisely analogous, in its several stages, to a trade in cotton. The planter raises the cotton ; he sells it to the mer- chant ; the merchant ships it to its place of destinatian ; and there it is resold to the consumer. " Every humane and generous mind must revolt at the notion of breeding human beings for sale ; and the term itself is scarcely tolerable to polite ears. But that they are actually bred for sale, in some of the slave states of North America, is a fact which, I fear, cannot he denied. I confess I feel much compassion for the slaveholder of Virginia, who, seated in his 201 old and gentlemanlike mansion, surveys the wide demesnes which have descended to him from his ancestors. His lands long since exhausted by slave labor, present to his eye a brown and dreary aspect, except where they have become overgrown by a miserable forest of pines. His black people have multi- plied around him, and he scarcely knows how to feed them. His family necessities are perpetually calling for money. The slave jobber is prowling about the neighborhood, with his tempting offers of five hundred dollars for a lad or girl, or one thousand dollars for an adult person. The temptation soon be- comes irresistible, and slave after slave supplies the southern market. By degrees he discovers that by far the most profita- ble article which his estate produces, is the slave ; and, instead of the old fashioned cultivator of the soil, he becomes, by slow degrees and almost insensibly to himself, a slave breeder. But whether this be, or be not the true trade and profession of the slaveholder, it is all one to the slave. He is sold to the merchant, torn from his wife and family, lodged in some negro jail, at Baltimore, Winchester, or Washington, and finally driven, as one of a handcuffed gang, to Alabama or Louisiana, — there to be sold, with an enormous profit for the jobber, to the planter of cotton, coffee, or sugar. *' All this is no exaggeration, a^^ the Senator of Kentucky must be fully aware, of the character of this nefarious traffic ; nor can it be questioned that it is a traffic carried on to an enormous extent. I learn, on good authority, that two-thirds of the funds of a principal state bank, were last year invested in loans to slave merchants ; and there cannot be the least question of the fact, that the yearly commerce of Virginia and North Carolina, in human beings, amounts to many millions of dollars. Would it not be" safe to say that it is the largest article of commerce known in those states ? That it is also an exten- sive branch of trade in Maryland, and some other parts of the Union, is beyond all doubt. <' But, allowing that this is the truth of the case, Henry Clay declares his opinion that Congress cannot touch the 202 question, because its power over the commerce between the states, is a power to regulate only^ not to destroy. It is matter of surprise that the very obvious fallacy of this plea, should not have been perceived by the experienced statesman who urged it. Who can fail to remark that in the article of the constitution, which applies to the subject, the word "commerce'' is used in a wide and general sense ? And who does not know that in the due regulation of commerce, in this comprehensive meaning, the prohibition of a trade in particular articles^ is frequently involved ? The celebrated tariff of North America was, I presume, intended at least to impede the introduction of certain articles of British manufacture, into this country ; and every one knows that duties are sometimes laid on importa- , tion, so heavy as to amount to an absolute prohibition. Thus, ^ in the " regulation" of the commerce of the United States with foreign nations, a traffic in particular articles may be legitimately annihilated, for the purpose of serving some larger or higher interest, for the national benefit. The same principle obviously applies to the commerce amongst the states. If a free traffic in some particular article, among some of the states, is injurious to the nation at large, — if it is at variance with great principles, on which the national prosperity depends — if it is illegitimate in its very nature, — the prohibition of such an unhealthy branch of trade, must surely form a just and proper part of that " regulatiorC^ of commerce among the several states, which is committed to the care and authority of Con- gress. " The subject now before me I feel to be one of most affecting and serious import. In the character of an ardent friend to every class of society in ttis country, and a hearty lover of her noble constitution, I am constrained to speak in plain terms upon this vital topic. With diffidence, yet with firmness, I must venture to express my own conviction, that the internal slave-trade of this country, though differing in circumstances from the African slave trade, is the same with it in principle ; that it is utterly unlawful and spurious, and opposed to the 203 very nature of a healthy conunerce ; that it is a blot on the escutcheon of this free and mighty nation, in the sight of all the nations of the earth ; that so far from promoting the pros- perity of the states which practice it, it is to them, like doses of brandy to a man sick of a fever — a mere diversion from that sound application of their resources, under the banner of free- dom, which can alone restore the prosperity of which slavery has deprived them ; and, finally, that for all these reasons, it is the high, yet simple, duty of Congress, as the authorised regu- lator of commerce, to extinguish without delay, this nefarious trafiic. " Whenever the happy day arrives when the federal govern- ment shall be induced to pay this debt to the cause of justice and humanity, such a proceeding can scarcely fail to be quickly followed by the abolition of slavery, in all those states of the Union, in which the slaves are becoming comparatively useless. The old outlet for them will be stopped; and, to issue the final decree, that they shall be free, and at liberty, therefore, to provide for themselves, as may best suit them, will be found to be the only practicable remedy for the inconveniences and miser- ies of the present state of things." kl 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WfflCH BORROWED CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recalL DEC 10 1973 iEgOCB 1 ^ ■frrr I ij u nw m 4 ^975 b * IR STACKS fcKS (ICT ** lO'J^^ ■CDQRCOff, OCT n» BEC>CI1L JUH 14 178 MAY 1 8 200^ LD21-35m-8,'72 (Q41898l0)476 — A-82 General Library University of California Berkeley f !■;-.(.