UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES " A party of girls tossing their arms about and splashing water like porpoises." frontispiece. — Page 20. moo A Narrative of Adventures in the South Seas BY HERMAN MELVILLE Author of "Typee," "Moby Dick," "White Jacket," etc BOSTON THE ST. BOTOLPH SOCIETY 53 Beacon Street HpflnniKo&nngngg Copyright, i8g2, By Elizabeth S. Melvillb Made in U. S. A. Third Impression, August, 1919 Fourth Impression, June, 1921 Fifth Impression, February, 1922 PRINTED BY C. H. SIMONDS COMPANY BOSTON, MASS., U.S.A. ib to Ibcrntan (Bansevoort OP GANSEVOORT, SARATOGA COUNTY. NEW YORK THIS x >VORK IS CORDIALLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS NEPHEW Gbe Butbor PREFACE. Nowhere, perhaps, are the proverbial characteristics of sailors shown under wilder aspects than in the South Seas. For the most part, the vessels navigating those remote waters are engaged in the Sperm Whale Fish- ery; a business which is not only peculiarly fitted to attract the most reckless seamen of all nations, but in various ways is calculated to foster in them a spirit of the utmost license. These voyages, also, are unusually long and perilous ; the only harbours accessible are among the barbarous or semi-civilized islands of Poly- nesia, or along the lawless western coast of South America. Hence, scenes the most novel, and not directly connected with the business of whaling, fre- quently occur among the crews of ships in the Pacific. Without pretending to give any account of the whale-fishery (for the scope of the narrative does not embrace the subject), it is partly the object of this work to convey some idea of the kind of life to which allu- sion is made, by means of a circumstantial history of adventures befalling the author. Another object proposed is, to give a familiar ac- count of the present condition of the converted Poly- nesians, as affected by thek promiscuous intercourse v Yl PEE FACE. with foreigners, and the teachings of the missionaries, combined. As a roving sailor, the author spent about three months in various parts of the islands of Tahiti and Imeeo, and under circumstances most favorable for cor- rect observations on the social condition of the natives. In every statement connected with missionary opera- tions, a strict adherence to facts has, of course, been scrupulously observed ; and in some instances, it has even been deemed advisable to quote previous voyages, in corroboration of what is offered as the fruit of the author's own observations. Nothing but an earnest de- sire for truth and good has led him to touch upon this subject at all. And if he refrains from offering hints as to the best mode of remedying the evils which are pointed out, it is only because he thinks, that after being made acquainted with the facts, others are bet- ter qualified to do so. Should a little jocoseness be shown upon some curi- ous traits of the Tahitians, it proceeds from no inten- tion to ridicule : things are merely described as, from their entire novelty, they first struck an unbiased ob- server. The present narrative necessarily begins where "Typee" concludes, but has no further connection with the latter work. All, therefore, necessary for the reader to understand, who has not read " Typee," is given in a brief introduction. No journal was kept by the author during his wan- derings in the South Seas; so that, in preparing the PREFACE. vii ensuing chapters for the press, precision with re- spect to dates would have been impossible; and every occurrence has been put down from simple recollection. The frequency, however, with which these incidents have been verbally related, has tended to stamp them upon the memory. Although it is believed that one or two imperfect Polynesian vocabularies have been published, none of the Tahitian dialect has as yet appeared. At any rate, the author has had access to none whatever. In the use of the native words, therefore, he has been mostly governed by the bare recollection of sounds. Upon several points connected with the history and ancient customs of Tahiti, collateral information has been obtained from the oldest books of South Sea voyages, and also from the " Polynesian Researches " of Ellis. The title of the work — Omoo — is borrowed from the dialect of the Marquesas Islands, where, among other uses, the word signifies a rover, or rather, a person wandering from one island to another, like some of the natives known among their countrymen as " Taboo kanakes." In no respect does the author make pretensions to philosophic research. In a familiar way, he has merely described what he has seen ; and if reflections are occasionally indulged in, they are spontaneous, and such as would very probably suggest themselves to the most casual observer. New York, January 28, 1847. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE Introduction xi I. My Reception Aboard 1 II. Some Account of the Ship 6 III. Further Account of the Julia 11 IV. A Scene in the Forecastle 15 V. What happened at Hytyhoo 19 VI. We touch at La Dominica 23 VII. What happened at Hannamanoo 26 VIII. The Tattooers of La Dominica 30 IX. We steer to the Westward. — State of Affairs . . 34 X. A Sea-Parlour described, with some of its Tenants, 40 XI. Doctor Long Ghost a Wag. — One of his Capers . 44 XII. Death and Burial of two of the Crew 47 XIII. Our Destination changed 54 XIV. Hope- Yarn 56 XV. Chips and Bungs 61 XVI. We encounter a Gale 63 XVII. The Coral Islands 66 XVIII. Tahiti 71 XIX. A Surprise. — More about Bembo 74 XX. The Round-Robin. —Visitors from Shore. ... 80 XXI. Proceedings of the Consul 87 XXII. The Consul's Departure 93 XXIII. The Second Night off Papeetee 96 XXIV. Outbreak of the Crew 102 XXV. Jermin encounters an Old Shipmate 105 ix CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. ""xxvn. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. XL. XLI. XLII. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. XL VII. XLVIII. XLIX. L. LI. LII. LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. PAGB We enter the Harbour. — Jim the Pilot .... 108 A Glance at Papeetee. — We are sent aboard the Frigate 114 Reception from the Frenchman 119 The Keine Blanche 121 They take us Ashore. — What happened there . . 126 The Calabooza Beretanee 130 Proceedings of the French at Tahiti 137 We receive Calls at the Hotel de Calabooza . . . 143 Life at the Calabooza 148 Visit from an Old Acquaintance 151 We are carried before the Consul and Captain . . 157 The French Priests pay their Respects 161 Little Jule sails without us 166 Jermin serves us a Good Turn. — Friendships in Polynesia 172 We take unto ourselves Friends 177 We levy Contributions on the Shipping .... 180 Motoo-Otoo. — A Tahitian Casuist 184 One is judged by the Company he keeps .... 188 Cathedral of Papoar. — The Church of the Cocoa Nuts 190 A Missionary's Sermon; with some Reflections . . 195 Something about the Kannakippers 201 How they dress in Tahiti 206 Tahiti as it is . .' 210 Same Subject continued 217 Something happens to Long Ghost 222 Wilson gives us the Cut. — Departure for Imeeo . 226 The Valley of Martair 231 Farming in Polynesia 235 Some Account of the Wild Cattle in Polynesia . . 240 A Hunting Ramble with Zeke 244 Musquitoes 248 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER PAGE LVIL The Second Hunt in the Mountains ...... 251 LVIII. The Hunting-Feast; and a Visit to Afrehitoo . . 257 LIX. The Murphies 260 LX. What they thought of us in Martair 264 LXI. Preparing for the Journey 268 LXII. Tamai 272 LXIII. A Dance in the Valley 275 LXIV. Mysterious . 278 LXV. The Hegira, or Flight 280 LXVI. How we were to get to Taloo 286 LXVII. The Journey round the Beach 288 LXVIII. A Dinner-Party in Imee/i 295 LXIX. The Cocoa-Palm 300 LXX. Life at Loohooloo 305 LXXI. We start for Taloo 307 LXXII. A Dealer in the Contraband 31) LXXIII. Our Reception in Partoowy* , 317 LXXIV. Retiring for the Night. — The Doctor grows devout 323 LXXV. A Ramble through the Settlement 326 LXXVI. An Island Jilt. —We visit the Ship 330 LXXVIL A Party of Rovers. — Little Loo and the. Doctor . 335 LXXVIII. Mrs. Bell 339 LXXIX. Taloo Chapel. — Holding Court in Polynesia . . 341 LXXX. Queen Pomaree 347 LXXXL We visit the Court 353 LXXXII. Which ends the Book 359 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE "A PARTY OF GIRLS TOSSING THEIR ARMS ABOUT AND SPLASHING WATER LIKE PORPOISES " {Page 20) ........ Frontispiece " Rushing in all around, they hauled the savage off " ....... 98 " With the stock of his gun, the old warder fetched a tremendous blow " . . . . 185 " i saluted him with a charge as he disap- PEARED " 245 INTRODUCTION. In the summer of 1842, the author of this narrative, as a sailor before the mast, visited the Marquesas Islands in an American South-Seaman. At the island of Nuku- heva he left his vessel, which afterwards sailed without him. Wandering in the interior, he came upon the val- ley of Typee, inhabited by a primitive tribe of savages, from which valley a fellow-sailor who accompanied him soon afterward effected his escape. The author, how- ever, was detained in an indulgent captivity for about the space of four months ; at the end of which period he escaped in a boat which visited the bay. This boat belonged to a vessel in need of men, which had recently touched at a neighbouring harbour of the same island, where the captain had been informed of the author's detention in Typee. Desirous of adding to his crew, he sailed round thither, and "hove to" off the mouth of the bay. As the Tj^pees were considered hos- tile, the boat, manned by taboo natives from the other harbour, was then sent in, with an interpreter at their head, to procure the author's release. This was finally accomplished, though not without peril to all concerned. At the time of his escape, the author was suffering severely from lameness. The boat having gained the open sea, the ship appeared in the distance. Here the present narrative opens. xiii OMOO. CHAPTER I. MY RECEPTION ABOARD. It was in the middle of a bright tropical afternoon that we made good our escape from the bay. The ves- sel that we sought lay with her main top-sail aback about a league from the land, and was the only object that broke the broad expanse of the ocean. On approaching, she turned out to be a small, slat- ternly looking craft, her hull and spars a dingy black, rigging all slack and bleached nearly white, and every- thing denoting an ill state of affairs aboard. The four boats hanging from her sides proclaimed her a whaler. Leaning carelessly over the bulwarks were the sailors, wild, haggard-looking fellows in Scotch caps and faded blue frocks ; some of them with cheeks of a mottled bronze, to which sickness soon changes the rich berry brown of a seaman's complexion in the tropics. On the quarter-deck was one whom I took for the chief mate. He wore a broad-brimmed Panama hat, and his spy-glass was levelled as we advanced. When we came alongside, a low cry ran fore and aft the deck, and everybody gazed at us with inquiring 2 OMOO. eyes. And well they might. To say nothing of the savage boat's crew, panting with excitement, all gesture and vociferation, my own appearance was calculated to excite curiosity. A robe of the native cloth was thrown over my shoulders, my hair and beard were uncut, and I betrayed other evidences of my recent adventure. Immediately on gaining the deck they beset me on all sides with questions, the half of which I could not answer, so incessantly were they put. As an instance of the curious coincidences which often befall the sailor, I must here mention, that two counte- nances before me were familiar. One was that of an old man-of-war's man whose acquaintance I had made in Rio de Janeiro, at which place touched the ship in which I sailed from home. The other was a young man, whom, four years previous, I had frequently met in a sailor boarding-house in Liverpool. I remembered parting with him at Prince's Dock Gates, in the midst of a swarm of police-officers, truckmen, stevedores, beg- gars, and the like. And here we are again: — years had rolled by, many a league of ocean had been trav- ersed, and we were thrown together under circum- stances which almost made me doubt my own existence. But a few moments passed ere I was sent for into the cabin by the captain. He was quite a young man, pale and slender, more like a sickly counting-house clerk than a bluff sea-cap- tain. Bidding me be seated, he ordered the steward to hand me a glass of Pisco. 1 In the state I was, this 1 This spirituous liquor derives its name from a considerable town in Peru, where it is manufactured in large quantities. It is well known along the whole western coast of South America, whence some of it has been exported to Australia. It is very cheap. MY RECEPTION ABOARD. 3 stimulus almost made me delirious ; so that of all I then went on to relate, concerning my residence on the island, I can scarcely remember a word. After this I was asked whether I desired to "ship;" of course I said yes; that is, if he would allow me to enter for one cruise, engaging to discharge me, if I so desired, at the next port. In this way men are frequently shipped on board whalemen in the South Seas. My stipulation was acceded to, and the ship's articles handed me to sign. The mate was now called below, and charged to make a " well man " of me ; not, let it be borne in mind, that the captain felt any great compassion for me, he only desired to have the benefit of my services as soon as possible. Helping me on deck, the mate stretched me out on the windlass and commenced examining my limb; and then doctoring it after a fashion with something from the medicine-chest, rolled it up in a piece of an old sail, making so big a bundle, that with my feet resting on the windlass, I might have been taken for a sailor with the gout. While this was going on, some one removing my tappa cloak slipped on a blue frock in its place ; and another, actuated by the same desire to make a civilised mortal of me, flourished about my head a great pair of sheep-shears, to the imminent jeopardy of both ears, and the certain destruction of hair and beard. The day was now drawing to a close, and, as the land faded from my sight, I was all alive to the change in my condition. But how far short of our expectations is oftentimes the fulfilment of the most ardent hopes ! Safe aboard of a ship — so long my earnest prayer — with home and friends once more in prospect, I never- 4 OMOO. theless felt weighed down by a melancholy that could not be shaken off. It was the thought of never more seeing those, who, notwithstanding their desire to re- tain me a captive, had, upon the whole, treated me so kindly. I was leaving them forever. So unforeseen and sudden had been my escape, so ex- cited had I been through it all, and so great the con- trast between the luxurious repose of the valley, and the wild noise and motion of a ship at sea, that at times my recent adventures had all the strangeness of a dream: and I could scarcely believe that the same sun now setting over a waste of waters, had that very morn- ing risen above the mountains and peered in upon me as I lay on my mat in Typee. Going below into the forecastle just after dark, I was inducted into a wretched " bunk " or sleeping-box built over another. The rickety bottoms of both were spread with several pieces of a blanket. A battered tin can was then handed me, containing about half a pint of "tea" — so called by courtesy, though whether the juice of such stalks as one finds floating therein de- serves that title, is a matter all ship-owners must settle with their consciences. A cube of salt beef, on a hard round biscuit by way of platter, was also handed up; and without more ado I made a meal, the salt flavour of which, after the Nebuchadnezzar fare of the valley, was positively delicious. While thus engaged, an old sailor on a chest just under me was puffing out volumes of tobacco smoke. My supper finished, he brushed the stem of his sooty pipe against the sleeve of his frock, and politely waved it toward me. The attention was sailor-like; as for the nicety of the thing, no man who has lived in forecastles is at all fastidious ; and so, after a few vigorous whiffs to MY RECEPTION ABOARD. 5 induce repose, I turned over and tried my best to forget myself. But in vain. My crib, instead of extending fore and aft, as it should have done, was placed athwart- ships, that is, at right angles to the keel ; and the vessel going before the wind, rolled to such a degree, that every time my heels went up and my head went down, I thought I was on the point of turning a somerset. Beside this, there were still more annoying causes of inquietude; and, every once in a while, a splash of water came down the open scuttle, and flung the spray in my face. At last, after a sleepless night, broken twice by the merciless call of the watch, a peep of daylight struggled into view from above, and some one came below. It was my old friend with the pipe. "Here, shipmate," said I, "help me out of this place, and let me go on deck." "Halloa, who's that croaking?" was the rejoinder, as he peered into the obscurity where I lay. "Ay, Typee, my king of the cannibals, is it you ? But I say, my lad, how's that spar of your'n? the mate says it's in a devil of a way; and last night set the steward to sharpen- ing the handsaw: hope he won't have the carving of ye." Long before daylight we arrived off the bay of Nuku- heva, and, making short tacks until morning, we then ran in, and sent a boat ashore with the natives who had brought me to the ship. Upon its return we made sail again, and stood off from the land. There was a fine breeze; and, notwithstanding my bad night's rest, the cool fresh air of a morning at sea was so bracing, that, as soon as I breathed it, my spirits rose at once. Seated upon the windlass the greater portion of the 6 OMOO. day, and chatting freely with the men, I learned the history of the voyage thus far, and everything respect- ing the ship and its present condition. These matters I will now throw together in the next chapter. CHAPTER II. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP. First and foremost, I must give some account of the Julia herself, or " Little Jule," as the sailors familiarly styled her. She was a small barque of a beautiful model, some- thing more than two hundred tons, Yankee-built, and very old. Fitted for a privateer out of a New England port during the war of 1812, she had been captured at sea by a British cruiser, and, after seeing all sorts of service, was at last employed as a government packet in the Australian seas. Being condemned, however, about two years previous, she was purchased at auction by a house in Sydney, who, after some slight repairs, despatched her on the present voyage. Notwithstanding the repairs, she was still in a miser- able plight. The lower masts were said to be unsound ; the standing rigging was much worn ; and, in some places, even the bulwarks were quite rotten. Still, she was tolerably tight, and but little more than the ordi- nary pumping of a morning served to keep her free. But all this had nothing to do with her sailing ; at that, brave Little Jule, plump Little Jule, was a witch. Blow high, or blow low, she was always ready for the SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP. 7 breeze ; and when she dashed the waves from her prow, and pranced, and pawed the sea, you never thought of her patched sails and blistered hull. How the fleet creature would fly before the wind ! rolling, now and then, to be sure, but in very playfulness. Sailing to windward, no gale could bow her over: with spars erect, she looked right up into the wind's eye, and so she went. But after all, Little Jule was not to be confided in. Lively enough, and playful she was, but on that very account the more to be distrusted. Who knew, but that like some vivacious old mortal all at once sinking into a decline, she might, some dark night, spring a leak and carry us all to the bottom? However, she played us no such ugly trick, and therefore I wrong Little Jule in supposing it. She had a free, roving commission. According to her papers she might go whither she pleased — whaling, sealing, or anything else. Sperm whaling, however, was what she relied upon ; though, as yet, only two fish had been brought alongside. The day they sailed out of Sydney Heads, the ship's company, all told, numbered some thirty-two souls ; now, they mustered about twenty ; the rest had de- serted. Even the three junior mates who had headed the whale-boats were gone.; and of the four harpooners, only one was left, a wild New Zealander, or " Mowree" as his countrymen are more commonly called in the Pacific. But this was not all. More than half the sea- men remaining were more or less unwell from a long sojourn in a dissipated port ; some of them wholly unfit for duty, one or two dangerously ill, and the rest man- aging to stand their watch, though they could do but little. 8 OMOO. The captain was a young cockney, who, a few years before, had emigrated to Australia, and, by some favour- itism or other, had procured the command of the vessel, though in no wise competent. He was essentially a landsman, and though a man of education, no more meant for the sea than a hair-dresser. Hence every- body made fun of him. They called him " The Cabin Boy," " Paper Jack," and half a dozen other undignified names. In truth, the men made no secret of the deris- ion in which they held him ; and as for the slender gentleman himself, he knew it all very well, and bore himself with becoming meekness. Holding as little in- tercourse with them as possible, he left everthing to the chief mate, who, as the story went, had been given his captain in charge. Yet, despite his unobtrusiveness, the silent captain had more to do with the men than they thought. In short, although one of your sheepish- looking fellows, he had a sort of still, timid cunning, which no one would have suspected, and which, for that very reason, was all the more active. So the bluff: mate, who always thought he did what he pleased, was occasionally made a tool of ; and some obnoxious meas- ures which he carried out, in spite of all growlings, were little thought to originate with the dapper little fellow in nankeen jacket and white canvas pumps. But, to all appearance, at least, the mate had everything his own way ; indeed, in most things this was actually the case ; and it was quite plain that the captain stood in awe of him. So far as courage, seamanship, and a natural aptitude for keeping riotous spirits in subjection were concerned, no man was better qualified for his vocation than John Jermin. He was the very beau-ideal of the efficient race of short, thick-set men. His hair curled in little SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SHIP. 9 rings of iron grey all over his round, bullet head. As for his countenance, it was strongly marked, deeply pitted with the small-pox. For the rest, there was a fierce little squint out of one eye ; the nose had a rakish twist to one side; while his large mouth, and great white teeth, looked absolutely sharkish when he laughed. In a word, no one, after getting a fair look at him, would ever think of improving the shape of his nose, wanting in symmetry if it was. Notwithstanding his pugnacious looks, however, Jermin had a heart as big as a bollock's ; that you saw at a glance. Such was our mate ; but he had one failing : he ab- horred all weak infusions, and cleaved manfully to strong drink. At all times he was more or less under the influence of it. Taken in moderate quantities, I believe, in my soul, it did a man like him good; brightened his eyes, swept the cobwebs out of his brain, and regulated his pulse. But the worst of it was, that sometimes he drank too much, and a more obstreperous fellow than Jermin in his cups, you seldom came across. He was always for having a fight; but the very men he flogged loved him as a brother, for he had such an irresistibly good-natured way of knocking them down, that no one could find it in his heart to bear malice against him. So much for stout little Jermin. All English whalemen are bound by law to carry a physician, who, of course, is rated a gentleman, and lives in the cabin, with nothing but his professional duties to attend to ; but incidentally he drinks " flip," and plays cards with the captain. There was such a worthy aboard of the Julia; but, curious to tell, he lived in the forecastle with the men. And this was the way it happened. In the early part of the voyage the doctor and the 10 OMOO. captain lived together as pleasantly as could be. To say nothing of many a can they drank over the cabin transom, both of them had read books, and one of them had travelled; so their stories never flagged. But once on a time they got into a dispute about politics, and the doctor, moreover, getting into a rage, drove home an argument with his fist, and left the captain on the floor literally silenced. This was carrying it with a high hand ; so he was shut up in his stateroom for ten days, and left to meditate on bread and water, and the impropriety of flying into a passion. Smarting under his disgrace, he undertook, a short time after his liberation, to leave the vessel clandestinely at one of the islands, but was brought back ignominiously, and again shut up. Being set at large for the second time, he vowed he would not live any longer with the cap- tain, and went forward with his chests among the sailors, where he was received with open arms, as a good fellow and an injured man. I must give some further account of him, for he fig- ures largely in the narrative. His early history, like that of many other heroes, was enveloped in the pro- foundest obscurity ; though he threw out hints of a patrimonial estate, a nabob uncle, and an unfortunate affair which sent him a-roving. All that was known, however, was this. He had gone out to Sydney as assistant-surgeon of an emigrant ship. On his arrival there, he went back into the country, and after a few months' wanderings, returned to Sydney penniless, and entered as a doctor aboard of the Julia. His personal appearance was remarkable. He was over six feet high — a tower of bones, with a complex- ion absolutely colourless, fair hair, and a light, unscrupu- lous grey eye, twinkling occasionally with the very FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA. 11 devil of mischief. Among the crew, he went by the name of the Long Doctor, or, more frequently still, Doctor Long Ghost. And from whatever high estate Doctor Long Ghost might have fallen, he had certainly at some time or other spent money, drank Burgundy, and associated with gentlemen. As for his learning, he quoted Virgil, and talked of Hobbes of Malms bury, besides repeating poetry by the canto, especially Hudibras. He was, moreover, a man who had seen the world. In the easiest way imaginable he could refer to an amour he had in Palermo, his lion hunting before breakfast among the Caffres, and the quality of the coffee to be drunk in Muscat ; and about these places, and a hundred others, he had more anec- dotes than I can tell of. Then such mellow old songs as he sang, in a voice so round and racy, the real juice of sound. How such notes came forth from his lank body was a constant marvel. Upon the whole, Long Ghost was as entertaining a companion as one could wish ; and to me in the Julia, an absolute godsend. CHAPTER III. FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA. Owing to the absence of anything like regular dis- cipline, the vessel was in a state of the greatest uproar. The captain, having for some time past been more or less confined to the cabin from sickness, was seldom seen. The mate, however, was as hearty as a young lion, and ran about the decks making himself heard at all hours. Bembo, the New Zealand harpooner, held 12 OMOO. little intercourse with anybody but the mate, who could talk to him freely in his own lingo. Part of his time he spent out on the bowsprit, fishing for albicores with a bone hook ; and occasionally he waked all hands up of a dark night dancing some cannibal fandango all by himself on the forecastle. But, upon the whole, he was remarkably quiet, though something in his eye showed he was far from being harmless. Doctor Long Ghost, having sent in a written resigna- tion as the ship's doctor, gave himself out as a passen- ger for Sydney, and took the world quite easy. As for the crew, those who were sick seemed marvellously contented for men in their condition ; and the rest, not displeased with the general license, gave themselves little thought of the morrow. The Julia's provisions were very poor. When opened, the barrels of pork looked as if preserved in iron rust, and diffused an odour like a stale ragout. The beef was worse yet; a mahogany-coloured fibrous substance, so tough and tasteless, that I almost believed the cook's story of a horse's hoof with the shoe on having been fished up out of the pickle of one of the casks. Nor was the biscuit much better ; nearly all of it was broken into hard little gunflints, honey-combed through and through, as if the worms usually infesting this article in long tropical voyages, had, in boring after nutriment, come out at the antipodes without finding anything. Of what sailor's call " small stores," we had but little. " Tea," however, we had in abundance ; though, I dare say, the Hong merchants never had the shipping of it. Besides this, every other day we had what English sea- men call " shot soup " — great round peas, polishing themselves like pebbles by rolling about in tepid water. It was afterwards told me, that all our provisions had FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE JULIA. 13 been purchased by the owners at an auction sale of condemned navy stores in Sydney. But notwithstanding the wateriness of the first course of soup, and the saline flavour of the beef and pork, a sailor might have made a satisfactory meal aboard of the Julia had there been any side dishes — a potato or two, a yam, or a plantain. But there was nothing of the kind. Still, there was something else, which, in the estimation of the men, made up for all deficiencies ; and that was the regular allowance of Pisco. It may seem strange, that in such a state of affairs the captain should be willing to keep the sea with his ship. But the truth was, that by lying in harbour, he ran the risk of losing the remainder of his men by de- sertion : and as it was, he still feared that, in some out- landish bay or other, he might one day find his anchor down, and no crew to weigh it. With judicious officers the most unruly seamen can at sea be kept in some sort of subjection ; but once get them within a cable's length of the land, and it is hard restraining them. It is for this reason, that many South Sea whalemen do not come to an anchor for eighteen or twenty months on a stretch. When fresh provisions are needed, they run for the nearest land — heave to eight or ten miles off, and send a boat ashore to trade. The crews manning vessels like these are for the most part villains of all nations and dyes ; picked up in the lawless ports of the Spanish Main, and among the sav- ages of the islands. Like galley-slaves, they are only to be governed by scourges and chains. Their officers go among them with dirk and pistol — concealed, but ready at a grasp. Not a few of our own crew were men of this stamp -, but riotous at times as they were, the bluff, drunken 14 OMOO. energies of Jermin were just the thing to hold them in some sort of noisy subjection. Upon an emergency, he flew in among them, showering his kicks and cuffs right and left, and " creating a sensation " in every direc- tion. And, as hinted before, they bore this knock- down authority with great good-humour. A sober, discreet, dignified officer could have done nothing with them ; such a set would have thrown him and his dignity over-board. Matters being thus, there was nothing for the ship but to keep the sea. Nor was the captain without hope that the invalid portion of his crew, as well as himself, would soon recover ; and then there was no telling what luck in the fishery might yet be in store for us. At any rate, at the time of my coming aboard, the report was, that Captain Guy was resolved upon retrieving the past, and filling the vessel with oil in the shortest space possible. With this intention, we were now shaping our course for Hytyhoo, a village on the island of St. Christina — one of the Marquesas, and so named by Mendana — for the purpose of obtaining eight seamen, who, some weeks before had stepped ashore there from the Julia. It was supposed that by this time they must have recreated themselves sufficiently, and would be glad to return to their duty. So to Hytyhoo, with all our canvas spread, and coquetting with the warm, breezy Trades, we bowled along ; gliding up and down the long, slow swells, the bonettas and albicores frolicking round us. A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE. 15 CHAPTER IV. A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE. I had scarcely be3n aboard of the ship twenty-four hours when a circumstance occurred, which, although noways picturesque, is so significant of the state of affairs, that I cannot forbear relating it. In the first place, however, it must be known, that among the crew was a man so excessively ugly, that he went by the ironical appellation of " Beauty." He was the ship's carpenter ; and for that reason was sometimes known by his nautical cognomen of " Chips." There was no absolute deformity about the man ; he was sym- metrically ugly. But ill-favoured as he was in person, Beauty was none the less ugly in temper ; but no one could blame him ; his countenance had soured his heart. Now Jermin and Beauty were always at sword's points. The truth was, the latter was the only man in the ship whom the mate had never decidedly got the better of ; and hence the grudge he bore him. As for Beauty, he prided himself upon talking up to the mate, as we shall soon see. Toward evening there was something to be done on deck, and the carpenter who belonged to the watch was missing. " Where's that skulk, Chips ? " shouted Jermin down the forecastle scuttle. " Taking his ease, d'ye see, down here on a chest, if you want to know," replied that worthy himself, quietly withdrawing his pipe from his mouth. This insolence flung the fiery little mate into a mighty rage ; but Beauty said nothing, puffing away with all the tran- 16 OMOO. quillity imaginable. Here it must be remembered that, never mind what may be the provocation, no prudent officer ever dreams of entering a ship's forecastle on a hostile visit. If he wants to see anybody who happens to be there, and refuses to come up, why he must wait patiently until the sailor is willing. The reason is this. The place is very dark ; and nothing is easier than to knock one descending on the head, before he knows where he is, and a very long while before he ever finds out who did it. Nobody knew this better than Jermin, and so he con- tented himself with looking down the scuttle and storm- ing. At last Beauty made some cool observation which set him half wild. " Tumble on deck," he then bellowed — " come, up with you, or I'll jump down and make you." The car- penter begged him to go about it at once. No sooner said than done ; prudence forgotten, Jer- min was there ; and, by a sort of instinct, had his man by the throat before he could well see him. One of the men now made a rush at him, but the rest dragged him off, protesting that they should have fair play. " Now, come on deck," shouted the mate, struggling like a good fellow to hold the carpenter fast. " Take me there," was the dogged answer, and Beauty wriggled about in the nervous grasp of the other like a couple of yards of boa-constrictor. His assailant now undertook to make him up into a compact bundle, the more easily to transport him. While thus occupied, Beauty got his arms loose, and threw him over backward. But Jermin quickly recov- ered himself, when for a time they had it every way, dragging each other about, bumping their heads against the projecting beams, and returning each other's blows A SCENE IN THE FORECASTLE. 17 the first favourable opportunity that offered. Unfortu- nately, Jermin at last slipped and fell ; his foe seating himself on his chest, and keeping him down. Now this was one of those situations in w T hich the voice of coun- sel, or reproof, comes with peculiar unction. Nor did Beauty let the opportunity slip. But the mate said nothing in reply, only foaming at the mouth and strug- gling to rise. Just then a thin tremor of a voice was heard from above. It was the captain ; who, happening to ascend to the quarter-deck at the commencement of the scuffle, would gladly have returned to the cabin, but was pre- vented by the fear of ridicule. As the din increased, and it became evident that his officer was in serious trouble, he thought it would never do to stand leaning over the bulwarks, so he made his appearance on the forecastle, resolved, as his best policy, to treat the matter lightly. " Why, why," he began, speaking pettishly, and very fast, "what's all this about? Mr. Jermin, Mr. Jermin — carpenter, carpenter ; what are you doing down there ? Come on deck ; come on deck." Whereupon Doctor Long Ghost cries out in a squeak, "Ah! Miss Guy, is that you? Now, my dear, go right home, or you'll get hurt." " Pooh, pooh ! you, sir, whoever you are, I was not speaking to you ; none of your nonsense. Mr. Jermin, I was talking to you ; have the kindness to come on deck, sir ; I want to see you." " And how, in the devil's name, am I to get there ? " cried the mate, furiously. " Jump down here, Captain Guy, and show yourself a man. Let me up, you Chips ! unhand me, I say ! Oh ! I'll pay you for this, some day ! Come on, Captain Guy ! " 18 OMOO. At this appeal, the poor man was seized with a perfect spasm of fidgets. "Pooh, pooh, carpenter; have done with your nonsense ! Let him up, sir ; let him up ! Do you hear? Let Mr. Jermin come on deck ! " " Go along with you, Paper Jack," replied Beauty ; "this quarrel's between the mate and me; so go aft, where you belong ! " As the captain once more dipped his head down the scuttle to make answer, from an unseen hand he received, full in the face, the contents of a tin can of soaked bis- cuit and tea-leaves. The doctor was not far off just then. Without waiting for anything more, the discom- fited gentleman, with both hands to his streaming face, retreated to the quarter-deck. A few moments more, and Jermin, forced to a com- promise, followed after, in his torn frock and scarred face, looking for all the world as if he had just disen- tangled himself from some intricate piece of machinery. For about half an hour both remained in the cabin, where the mate's rough tones were heard high above the low, smooth voice of the captain. Of all his conflicts with the men, this was the first in which Jermin had been worsted ; and he was proportion- ably enraged. Upon going below — as the steward afterward told us — he bluntly informed Guy that, for the future, he might look out for his ship himself ; for his part, he was done with her, if that was the way he allowed his officers to be treated. After many high words, the captain finally assured him, that the first fitting opportunity the carpenter should be cordially flogged ; though, as matters stood, the experiment would be a hazardous one. Upon this Jerwin reluc- tantly consented to drop the matter for the present ; and he soon drowned all thoughts of it in a can of flip, WHAT HAPPENED AT HTTTHOO. 19 which Guy had previously instructed the steward to prepare, as a sop to allay his wrath. Nothing more ever came of this. CHAPTER V. WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTYHOO. Less than forty-eight hours after leaving Nukuheva, the blue, looming island of St. Christina greeted us from afar. Drawing near the shore, the grim, black spars and waspish hull of a small man-of-war craft crept into view; the masts and yards lined distinctly against the sky. She was riding to her anchor in the bay, and proved to be a French corvette. This pleased our captain exceedingly, and, coming on deck, he examined her from the mizzen rigging with his glass. His original intention was not to let go an anchor ; but, counting upon the assistance of the corvette in case of any difficulty, he now changed his mind, and anchored alongside of her. As soon as a boat could be lowered, he then went off to pay his respects to the commander, and, moreover, as we supposed, to concert measures for the apprehension of the runaways. Returning in the course of twenty minutes, he brought along with him two officers in undress and whiskers, and three or four drunken obstreperous old chiefs ; one with his legs thrust into the armholes of a scarlet vest, another with a pair of spurs on his heels, and a third in a cocked hat and feather. In addition to these articles, they merely wore the ordinary costume of their race — a slip of native cloth about the loins. Indecorous as their behaviour was, these worthies turned out to be a 20 OMOO. deputation from the reverend, the clergy of the island ; and the object of their visit was to put our ship under a rigorous " Taboo," to prevent the disorderly scenes and facilities for desertion which would ensue were the natives — men and women — allowed to come off to us freely. There was little ceremony about the matter. The chiefs went aside for a moment, laid their shaven old crowns together, and went over a little mummery. Whereupon, their leader tore a long strip from his girdle of white tappa, and handed it to one of the French officers, who, after explaining what was to be done, gave it to Jermin. The mate at once went out to the end of the flying-jib-boom, and fastened there the mystic symbol of the ban. This put to flight a party of girls who had been observed swimming towards us. Tossing their arms about, and splashing the water like porpoises, with loud cries of " Taboo ! taboo ! " they turned about and made for the shore. The night of our arrival, the mate and the Mowree were to stand " watch and watch," relieving each other every four hours ; the crew, as is sometimes customary when lying at an anchor, being allowed to remain all night below. A distrust of the men, however, was, in the present instance, the principal reason for this proceed- ing. Indeed, it was all but certain that some kind of attempt would be made at desertion ; and, therefore, when Jermin's first watch came on at eight bells (mid- night) — by which time all was quiet — he mounted to the deck with a flask of spirits in one hand, and the other in readiness to assail the first countenance that showed itself above the forecastle scuttle. Thus prepared, he doubtless meant to stay awake ; but for all that, before long he fell asleep ; and slept with WHAT HAPPENED AT HYTTHOO. 21 such hearty good-will too, that the men who left us that night might have been waked up by his snoring. Cer- tain it was, the mate snored most strangely; and no wonder, with that crooked bugle of his. When he came to himself it was just dawn, but quite light enough to show two boats gone from the side. In an instant he knew what had happened. Dragging the Mowree out of an old sail where he was napping, he ordered him to clear away another boat, and then darted into the cabin to tell the captain the news. Springing on deck again, he dived down into the fore- castle for a couple of oarsmen, but hardly got there before there was a cry, and a loud splash heard over the side. It was the Mowree and the boat — into which he had just leaped to get ready for lowering — rolling over and over in the water. The boat having at nightfall been hoisted up to its place over the starboard quarter, some one had so cut the tackles which held it there, that a moderate strain would at once part them. Bembo's weight had answered the purpose, showing that the deserters must have ascer- tained his specific gravity to a fibre of hemp. There was another boat remaining : but it was as well to ex- amine it before attempting to lower. And it was well they did ; for there was a hole in the bottom large enough to drop a barrel through : she had been scuttled most ruthlessly. Jermin was frantic. Dashing his hat upon deck, he was about to plunge overboard and swim to the corvette for a cutter, when Captain Guy made his appearance and begged him to stay where he was. By this time the officer of the deck aboard the Frenchman had noticed our movements, and hailed to know what had happened. Guy informed him through his trumpet, and men to go 22 omoo. in pursuit were instantly promised. There was a whis- tling of a boatswain's pipe, an order or two, and then a large cutter pulled out from the man-of-war's stern, and in half a dozen strokes was alongside. The mate leaped into her, and they pulled rapidly ashore. Another cutter, carrying an armed crew, soon fol- lowed. In an hour's time the first returned, towing the two whale boats, which had been found turned up like tor- toises on the beach. Noon came, and nothing more was heard from the deserters. Meanwhile Doctor Long Ghost and myself lounged about, cultivating an acquaintance, and gazing upon the shore scenery. The bay was as calm as death ; the sun high and hot ; and occasionally a still gliding canoe stole out from behind the headlands, and shot across the water. And all the morning long our sick men limped about the deck, casting wistful glances inland, where the palm- trees waved and beckoned them into their reviving shades. Poor invalid rascals ! How conducive to the restoration of their shattered health would have been those delicious groves ! But hard-hearted Jermin as- sured them, with an oath, that foot of theirs should never touch the beach. Toward sunset a crowd was seen coming down to the water. In advance of all were the fugitives — bare- headed — their frocks and trousers hanging in tatters, every face covered with blood and dust, and their arms pinioned behind them with green thongs. Following them up, was a shouting rabble of islanders, pricking them with the points of their long spears, the party from the corvette menacing them in flank with their naked cutlasses. WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA. 23 The bonus of a musket to the king of the Bay, and the promise of a tumbler full of powder for every man caught, had set the whole population on their track ; and so successful was the hunt, that not only were that morning's deserters brought back, but five of those left behind on a former visit. The natives, however, were the mere hounds of the chase, raising the game in their coverts, but leaving the securing of it to the Frenchmen. Here, as elsewhere, the islanders have no idea of taking part in such a scuffle as ensues upon the capture of a party of desperate seamen. The runaways were at once brought aboard, and, though they looked rather sulky, soon came round, and treated the whole affair as a frolicsome adventure. CHAPTER VI. WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA. Fearful of spending the night in Hytyhoo, Captain Guy caused the ship to be got under wa}>- shortly after dark. The next morning, when all supposed that we were fairly embarked for a long cruise, our course was sud- denly altered for La Dominica, or Hivarhoo, an island just north of the one we had quitted. The object of this, as we learned, was to procure, if possible, several English sailors, who, according to the commander of the corvette, had recently gone ashore there from an Ameri- can whaler, and were desirous of shipping aboard of one of their own country vessels. We made the land in the afternoon, coming abreast of a shady glen opening from a deep bay, and winding by 24 omoo. green defiles far out of sight. " Hands by the weather- main-brace ! " roared the mate, jumping upon the bul- warks ; and in a moment the prancing Julia, suddenly arrested in her course, bridled her head like a steed reined in, while the foam flaked under her bows. This was the place where we expected to obtain the men ; so a boat was at once got in readiness to go ashore. Now it was necessary to provide a picked crew — men the least likely to abscond. After considerable deliberation on the part of the captain and mate, four of the seamen were pitched upon as the most trustworthy ; or rather they were selected from a choice assortment of suspicious characters as being of an inferior order of rascality. Armed with cutlasses all round — the natives were said to be an ugly set — they were followed over the side by the invalid captain, who, on this occasion, it seems, was determined to signalize himself. Accordingly, in addition to his cutlass, he wore an old boarding belt, in which was thrust a brace of pistols. They at once shoved off. My friend Long Ghost had, among other things which looked somewhat strange in a ship's forecastle, a capital spy-glass, and on the present occasion we had it in use. When the boat neared the head of the inlet, though invisible to the naked eye, it was plainly revealed by the glass ; looking no bigger than an egg-shell, and the men diminished to pygmies. At last, borne on what seemed a long flake of foam, the tiny craft shot up the beach amid a shower of sparkles. Not a soul was there. Leaving one of their number by the water, the rest of the pygmies stepped ashore, looking about them very circumspectly, pausing now and then hand to ear, and peering under a dense WE TOUCH AT LA DOMINICA. 27 grove, which swept down within a few paces of the sea. No one came, and to all appearances everything was as still as the grave. Presently, he with the pistols, fol- lowed by the rest nourishing their bodkins, entered the wood and were soon lost to view. They did not stay long; probably anticipating some inhospitable ambush were they to stray any distance up the glen. In a few moments they embarked again, and were soon riding pertly over the waves of the bay. All of a sudden the captain started to his feet — the boat spun round, and again made for the shore. Some twenty or thirty natives armed with spears, which through the glass looked like reeds, had just come out of the grove, and were apparently shouting to the strangers not to be in such a hurry, but return and be sociable. But they were somewhat distrusted, for the boat paused about its length from the beach, when the captain standing up in its head delivered an address in pantomime, the object of which seemed to be that the islanders should draw near. One of them stepped forward and made answer, seemingly again urging the strangers not to be diffident, but beach their boat. The captain declined, tossing his arms about in another pantomime. In the end he said something which made them shake their spears ; where- upon he fired a pistol among them, which set the whole party running ; while one poor little fellow, dropping his spear and clapping his hand behind him, limped away in a manner which almost made me itch to get a shot at his assailant. Wanton acts of cruelty like this are not unusual on the part of sea captains landing at islands comparatively unknown. Even at the Pomotu group, but a day's sail from Tahiti, the islanders coming down to the shore have several times been fired at by trading schooners 26 omoo. passing through their narrow channels ; and this too as a mere amusement on the part of the ruffians. Indeed, it is almost incredible, the light in which many sailors regard these naked heathens. They hardly consider them human. But it is a curious fact, that the more ignorant and degraded men are, the more con- temptuously they look upon those whom they deem their inferiors. All powers of persuasion being thus lost upon these foolish savages, and no hope left of holding further intercourse, the boat returned to the ship. CHAPTER VII. WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO. On the other side of the island was the large and populous bay of Hannamanoo, where the men sought might yet be found. But as the sun was setting by the time the boat came alongside, we got our off-shore tacks aboard and stood away for an offing. About daybreak we wore, and ran in, and by the time the sun was well up, entered the long, narrow channel dividing the islands of La Dominica and St. Christina. On one hand was a range of steep green bluffs hun- dreds of feet high, the white huts of the natives here and there nestling like birds' nests in deep clefts gush- ing with verdure. Across the water, the land rolled away in bright hillsides, so warm and undulating, that they seemed almost to palpitate in the sun. On we swept, past bluff and grove, wooded glen and valley, and dark ravines lighted up far inland with wild falls of water. A fresh land-breeze filled our sails, the em- WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO. 27 bayed waters were gentle as a lake, and every blue wave broke with a tinkle against our coppered prow. On gaining the end of the channel we rounded a point, and came full upon the bay of Hannamanoo. This is the only harbour of any note about the island, though as far as a safe anchorage is concerned it hardly deserves the title. Before we held any communication with the shore, an incident occurred which may convey some further idea of the character of our crew. Having approached as near the land as we could prudently, our headway was stopped, and we awaited the arrival of a canoe which was coming out of the bay. All at once we got into a strong current, which swept us rapidly toward a rocky promontory forming one side of the harbour. The wind had died away ; so two boats were at once lowered for the purpose of pulling the ship's head round. Before this could be done, the eddies were whirling upon all sides, and the rock so near, that it seemed as if one might leap upon it from the mast-head. Notwithstanding the speechless fright of the captain, and the hoarse shouts of the unappalled Jermin, the men handled the ropes as deliberately as possible, some of them chuckling at the prospect of going ashore, and others so eager for the vessel to strike, that they could hardly contain themselves. Unexpect- edly a countercurrent befriended us, and assisted by the boats we were soon out of danger. What a disappointment for our crew ! All their little plans for swimming ashore from the wreck, and having a fine time of it for the rest of their days, thus cruelly nipt in the bud. Soon after, the canoe came alongside. In it were eight or ten natives, comely, vivacious-looking youths, 28 omoo. all gesture and exclamation ; the red feathers in their headbands perpetually nodding. With them also came a stranger, a renegado from Christendom and humanity — a white man in South Sea girdle, and tattooed in the face. A broad blue band stretched across his face from ear to ear, and on his forehead was the taper figure of a blue shark, nothing but fins from head to tail. Some of us gazed upon this man with a feeling akin to horror, no ways abated when informed that he had voluntarily submitted to this embellishment of his countenance. What an impress ! Far worse than Cain's — his was, perhaps, a wrinkle, or a freckle, which some of our modern cosmetics might have effaced ; but the blue shark was a mark indelible, which all the waters of Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, could never wash out. He was an Englishman, Lem Hardy he called himself, who had deserted from a trad- ing brig touching at the island for wood and water some ten years previous. He had gone ashore as a sovereign power, armed with a musket and a bag of ammunition, and ready, if need were, to prosecute war on his own account. The country was divided by the hostile kings of several large valleys. With one of them, from whom he first received overtures, he formed an alliance, and became what he now was, the military leader of the tribe, and war-god of the entire island. His campaigns beat Napoleon's. In one night-attack, his invincible musket, backed by the light infantry of spears and javelins, vanquished two clans, and the next morning brought all the others at the feet of his royal ally. Nor was the rise of his domestic fortunes at all behind the Corsican's ; three days after landing, the exquisitely tattooed hand of a princess was his; receiving along WHAT HAPPENED AT HANNAMANOO. 29 with the damsel, as her portion, one thousand fathoms of fine tappa, fifty double-braided mats of split grass, four hundred hogs, ten houses in different parts of her native valley, and the sacred protection of an express edict of the Taboo, declaring his person inviolable for- ever. Now, this man was settled for life, perfectly satisfied with his circumstances, and feeling no desire to return to his friends. " Friends," indeed, he had none. He told me his history. Thrown upon the world a found- ling, his paternal origin was as much a mystery to him as the genealogy of Odin ; and, scorned by everybody, he fled the parish workhouse when a boy, and launched upon the sea. He had followed it for several years, a dog before the mast, and now he had thrown it up forever. And for the most part, it is just this sort of men — so many of whom are found among sailors — uncared for by a single soul, without ties, reckless, and impatient of the restraints of civilisation, who are occasionally found quite at home upon the savage islands of the Pacific. And, glancing at their hard lot in their own country, what marvel at their choice ? According to the renegado, there was no other white man on the island ; and as the captain could have no reason to suppose that Hardy intended to deceive us, he concluded that the Frenchmen were in some way or other mistaken in what they had told us. However, when our errand was made known to the rest of our visitors, one of them, a fine, stalwart fellow, his face all eyes and expression, volunteered for a cruise, all the wages he asked, was a red shirt, a pair of trousers, and a hat, which were to be put on there and then ; besides a plug of tobacco and a pipe. The bargain was struck directly; but Wymontoo afterwards came in with a 30 OMOO. codicil, to the effect that a friend of his, who had come along with him, should be given ten whole sea-biscuits, without crack or flaw, twenty perfectly new and symmet- rically straight nails, and one jackknife. This being agreed to, the articles were at once handed over, the native receiving them with great avidity, and in the absence of clothing, using his mouth as a pocket to put the nails in. Two of them, however, were first made to take the place of a pair of ear-ornaments, curiously fashioned out of bits of whitened wood. It now began breezing strongly from seaward, and no time was to be lost in getting away from the land ; so, after an affecting rubbing of noses between our shipmate and his countrymen, we sailed away with him. To our surprise, the farewell-shouts from the canoe, as we dashed along under bellied royals, were heard unmoved by our islander; but it was not long thus. That very evening, when the dark blue of his native hills sunk in the horizon, the poor savage leaned over the bulwarks, dropped his head upon his chest, and gave way to irrepressible emotions. The ship was plunging hard, and Wymontoo, sad to tell, in addition to his other pangs, was terribly seasick. CHAPTER VIII. THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA. For a while leaving Little Jule to sail away by her- self, I will here put down some curious information obtained from Hardy. The renegado had lived so long on the island, that its customs were quite familiar ; and I much lamented that, THE TATTOOERS CF LA DOMINICA. 3i from the shortness of our stay, he could not tell us more than he did. From the little intelligence gathered, however, I learned to my surprise that, in some things, the people of Hivarhoo, though of the same group of islands, dif- fered considerably from my tropical friends in the valley of Typee. As his tattooing attracted so much remark, Hardy had a good deal to say concerning the manner in which that art was practised upon the island. Throughout the entire cluster the tattooers of Hivar- hoo enjoyed no small reputation. They had carried their art to the highest perfection, and the profession was esteemed most honourable. No wonder, then, that like genteel tailors they rated their services very high ; so much so, that none but those belonging to the higher classes could afford to employ them. So true was this, that the elegance of one's tattooing was in most cases a sure indication of birth and riches. Professors in large practice lived in spacious houses, divided by screens of tappa into numerous little apart- ments, where subjects were waited upon in private. The arrangement chiefly grew out of a singular ordinance of the Taboo, which enjoined the strictest privacy upon all men, high and low, while under the hands of the tattooer. For the time, the slightest intercourse with others is prohibited, and the small portion of food allowed is pushed under the curtain by an unseen hand. The restriction with regard to food is intended to reduce the blood, so as to diminish the inflammation consequent upon puncturing the skin. As it is, this comes on very soon, and takes some time to heal ; so that the period of seclusion generally embraces many days, sometimes several weeks. C'2 OMOO. All traces of soreness vanished, the subject goes abroad ; but only again to return ; for, on account of the pain, only a small surface can be operated upon at once ; and as the whole body is to be more or less embellished by a process so slow, the studios alluded to are constantly filled. Indeed, with a vanity elsewhere unheard of, many spend no small portion of their days thus sitting to an artist. To begin the work, the period of adolescence is esteemed the most suitable. After casting about for some eminent tattooer, the friends of the youth take him to his house, to have the outlines of the general plan laid out. It behoves the professor to have a nice eye, for a suit to be worn for life should be well cut. Some tattooers, yearning after perfection, employ, at large wages, one or two men of the commonest order — vile fellows, utterly regardless of appearances, upon whom they first try their patt^cns and practise generally. Their backs remorselessly scrawifcd over, and no more canvas remaining, they are dismissed^ and ever after go about the scorn of their countrymen. Hapless wights ! thus martyred in /the cause of the Fine Arts. Besides the regular pra^itioners/there are a parcel of shabby, itinerant tattooersT^Who, by virtue of their calling, stroll unmolested from one hostile bay to another, doing their work dog-cheap for the multitude. They always repair to the various religious festivals, which gather great crowds. When these are concluded, and the places where they are held vacated even by the tattooers, scores of little tents of coarse tappa are left standing, each with a solitary inmate, who, forbidden to talk to his unseen neighbours, is obliged to stay there till completely healed. The itinerants are a reproach to THE TATTOOERS OF LA DOMINICA. 33 their profession, mere cobblers, dealing in nothing bnt jagged lines and clumsy patches, and utterly incapable of soaring to those heights of fancy attained by gentle- men of the faculty. All professors of the arts love to fraternize ; and so, in Hannamanoo, the tattooers come together in the chapters of their worshipful order. In this society, duty organized, and conferring degrees, Hardy, from his influ- ence as a white, was a sort of honorary Grand Master. The blue shark, and a sort of Urim and Thummim engraven upon his chest, were the seal of his initiation. All over Hivarhoo are established these orders of tattooers. The way in which the renegado's came to be founded is this. A year or two after his landing there happened to be a season of scarcity, owing to the partial failure of the bread-fruit harvest for several consecutive seasons. This brought about such a falling off in the number of subjects for tattooing, that the profession became quite needy. The royal ally of Hardy, however, hit upon a benevolent expedient to provide for their wants, at the same time conferring a boon upon many of his subjects. By sound of conch-shell it was proclaimed before the palace, on the beach, and at the head of the valley, that Noomai, King of Hannamanoo, and friend of Hardee- Hardee, the white, kept open heart and table for all tattooers whatsoever ; but, to entitle themselves to his hospitality, they were commanded to practise without fee upon the meanest native soliciting their services. Numbers at once flocked to the royal abode, both artists and sitters. It was a famous time ; and the buildings of the palace being " taboo " to all but the tattooers and chiefs, the sitters bivouacked on the com- mon, and formed an extensive encampment. 34 omoo. The " Lora Tattoo," or the Time of Tattooing, will be long remembered. An enthusiastic sitter celebrated the event in verse. Several lines were repeated to us by Hardy, some of which, in a sort of colloquial chant, hr At- last the wishes of many were gratifie^t^and like an aeronauFs"gf3pn ol, hci ma l y litllcrg ncnor was caught in the coral groves at the bottom of Papeetee Bay. This must have been more than forty days after leaving the Marquesas. The sails were yet unfurled, when a boat came along- side with our esteemed friend Wilson, the consul. " How's this, how's this, Mr. Jermin ? " he began, looking very savage as he touched the deck. " What brings you in without orders ? " " You did not come off to us, as you promised, sir ; and there was no hanging on longer with nobody to work the ship," was the blunt reply. " So the infernal scoundrels held out — did they ? Very good; I'll make them sweat for it," and he eyed the scowling men with unwonted intrepidity. The truth was, he felt safer now, then when outside the reef. 116 OMOO. " Muster the mutineers on the quarter-deck," he con- tinued. " Drive them aft, sir, sick and well : I have a word to say to them." " Now, men," said he, "you think it's all well with you, I suppose. You wished the ship in, and here she is. Captain Guy's ashore, and you think you must go too : but we'll see about that — I'll miserably disappoint you." (These last were his very words.) " Mr. Jermin, call off the names of those who did not refuse duty, and let them go over to the starboard side." This done, a list was made out of the " mutineers," as he was pleased to call the rest. Among these, the doc- ter and myself were included; though the former stepped forward, and boldly pleaded the office held by him when the vessel left Sydney. The mate also — who had always been friendly — stated the service rendered by himself two nights previous, as well as my conduct when he an- nounced his intention to enter the harbour. For myself, I stoutly maintained, that according to the tenor of the agreement made with Captain Guy, my time aboard the ship had expired — the cruise being virtually at an end, however it had been brought about — and I claimed my discharge. But Wilson would hear nothing. Marking something in my manner, nevertheless, he asked my name and country ; and then observed with a sneer, " Ah, you are the lad, I see, that wrote the Round Robin; I'll take good care of you, my fine fellow — step back, sir." As for poor Long Ghost, he denounced him as a " Sydney Flash-Gorger ; " though what under heaven he meant by that euphonious title, is more than I can tell. Upon this, the doctor gave him such a piece of his mind, that the consul furiously commanded him to hold A GLANCE AT PAPEETEE. 117 his peace, or he would instantly have him seized into the rigging, and flogged. There was no help for either of us — we were judged by the company we kept. All were now sent forward ; not a word being said as to what he intended doing with us. After a talk with the mate, the consul withdrew, go- ing aboard the French frigate, which lay within a cable's length. We now suspected his object ; and, since mat- ters had come to this pass, were rejoiced at it. In a day or ,two the Frenchman was to sail for Valparaiso, the usual place of rendezvous for the English squadron in the Pacific ; and doubtless, Wilson meant to put us on board, and send us thither to be delivered up. Should our conjecture prove correct, all we had to ex- pect, according to our most experienced shipmates, was the fag end of a cruise in one of her majesty's ships, and a discharge before long at Portsmouth. We now proceeded to put on all the clothes we could — frock over frock, and trousers over trousers — so as to be in readiness for removal at a moment's warning. Armed ships allow nothing superfluous to litter up the deck ; and therefore, should we go aboard the frigate, our chests and their contents would have to be left behind. In an hour's time, the first-cutter of the Reine Blanche came alongside, manned by eighteen or twenty sailors, armed with cutlasses and boarding-pistols, — the officers, of course, wearing their side-arms, and the con- sul in an official cocked hat, borrowed for the occasion. The boat was painted a " pirate black, " its crew were a dark, grim-looking set, and the officers uncommonly fierce-looking little Frenchmen. On the whole they were calculated to intimidate — the consul's object, doubtless, in bringing them. 118 OMOO. Summoned aft again, every one's name was called separately; and being solemnly reminded that it was his last chance to escape punishment, was asked if he still refused duty. The response was instantaneous: " Ay, sir, I do." In some cases followed up by divers explanatory observations, cut short by Wilson's order- ing the delinquent into the cutter. As a general thing, the order was promptly obeyed — some taking a se- quence of hops, skips, and jumps, by way of showing, not only their unimpaired activity of body, but their alacrity in complying with all reasonable requests. Having avowed their resolution not to pull another rope of the Julia's — even if at once restored to perfect health — all the invalids, with the exception of the two to be set ashore, accompanied us into the cutter. They were in high spirits ; so much so, that something was insinuated about their not having been quite as ill as they pretended. The cooper's name was the last called ; we did not hear what he answered, but he stayed behind. Nothing was done about the Mowree. Shoving clear from the ship, three loud cheers were raised; Flash Jack and others receiving a sharp repri- mand for it from the consul. " Good-by, Little Jule," cried Navy Bob, as we swept under the bows. " Don't fall overboard, Ropey," said another to the poor land-lubber, who, with Wymontoo, the Dane, and others left behind, was looking over at us from the forecastle. " Give her three more ! " cried Salem, springing to his feet and whirling his hat round. " You sacre damn ras- keel," shouted the lieutenant of the party, bringing the flat of his sabre across his shoulders, "you now keepy steel." RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN. 119 The doctor and myself, more discreet, sat quietly in the bow of the cutter ; and for my own part, though I did not repent what I had done, my reflections were far from being enviable. CHAPTER XXVIII. RECEPTION FROM THE FRENCHMAN. In a few moments we were paraded in the frigate's gangway ; the first lieutenant — an elderly, yellow-faced officer, in an ill-cut coat and tarnished gold lace — com- ing up, and frowning upon us. This gentleman's head was a mere bald spot ; his legs, sticks ; in short, his whole physical vigour seemed ex- hausted in the production of one enormous mustache. Old Gamboge, as he was forthwith christened, now received a paper from the consul ; and, opening it, pro- ceeded to compare the goods delivered with the invoice. After being thoroughly counted, a meek little mid- shipman was called, and we were soon after given in custody to half-a-dozen sailor-soldiers — fellows with tarpaulins and muskets. Preceded by a pompous func- tionary (whom we took for one of the ship's corporals, from his ratan and the gold lace on his sleeve), we were now escorted down the ladders to the berth-deck. Here we were politely handcuffed, all round ; the man with the bamboo evincing the utmost solicitude in giving us a good fit from a large basket of the articles of assorted sizes. Taken by surprise at such an uncivil reception, a few of the party demurred; but all coyness was, at last, 120 OMOO. overcome ; and finally our feet were inserted into heavy- anklets of iron, running along a great bar bolted down to the deck. After this, we considered ourselves per- manently established in our new quarters. " The deuce take their old iron ! " exclaimed the doctor ; " if I'd known this, I'd stayed behind." " Ha, ha ! " cried Flash Jack, " you're in for it, Doctor Long Ghost." " My hands and feet are, any way," was the reply. They placed a sentry over us; a great lubber of a fellow who marched up and down with a dilapidated old cutlass of most extraordinary dimensions. From its length, wohaid some-idea that jjj wqg expressly intended to kje^rpacrowd in order — reaching over^fck^heads of lalf-a-dozen, say, so as to get a cut at somebody behind. " Mercy ! " ejaculated the doctor, with a shuddei what a sensation it must be to be killed by such a tool!" We fasted till night, when one of the boys came along with a couple of u kidsj^cxoitaining a thin, saffron-col- *ouT cd fluid, wi t fr "oiTy~particles floating on top. The young wag told us this was soup : it turned out to be nothing more than oleaginous warm water. Such as it was, nevertheless, we were fain to make a meal of it, our sentry being attentive enough to undo our brace- lets. The " kids " passed from mouth to mouth, and were soon emptied. The next morning, when the sentry's back was turned, some one, whom we took for an English sailor, tossed over a few oranges, the rinds of which we after- wards used for cups. On the second day nothing happened worthy of record. On the third, we were amused by the follow- ing scene. A man, whom we supposed a boatswain's mate, from THE HEINE BLANCHE. 121 the silver whistle hanging from his neck, came below, driving before him a couple of blubbering boys, and followed by a whole troop of youngsters in tears. The pair it seemed, were sent down to be punished by com- mand of an officer : the rest had accompanied them out of sympathy. The boatswain's mate went to work without delay, seizing the poor little culprits by their loose frocks, and using a ratan without mercy. The other boys wept, clasped their hands, and fell on their knees ; but in vain : the boatswain's mate only hit out at them ; once in a while making them yell ten times louder than ever. In the midst of the tumult, down comes a midship- man, who, with a great air, orders the man on deck, and running in among the boys, set them to scampering in all directions. The whole of this proceeding was regarded with infi- nite scorn by Navy Bob, who, years before, had been captain of the fore top, on board a line-of-battle ship. In his estimation, it was a lubberly piece of business throughout : they did things differently in the English navy. CHAPTER XXIX. THE REINE BLANCHE. I cannot forbear a brief reflection upon the scene ending the last chapter. The ratanning of the young culprits, although sig- nificant of the imperfect discipline of a French man- of-war, may also be considered as in some measure characteristic of the nation. 122 In sm American or English shjpf a boy, when flogged, is eitherTal flicd t o t he brcc dToi a gun, or brought right up to the gratings, the same way the men are. But as a general rule, he is never punished beyond his strength. You seldom or never draw a cry from the young rogue. He bites his tongue, and stands up to it like a hero. If practicable (which is not always the case), he makes a point of smiling under the operation. And so far from his companions taking any compassion on him, they always make merry over his misfortunes. Should he turn baby and cry, they are pretty sure to give him afterwards a sly pounding in some dark corner. This tough training produces its legitimate results. 1 The boy becomes, in time, a thoroughbred tar, equally ready to strip and take a dozen on board his own ship, or, cutlass in hand, dash pell-mell on board the enemy's. Whereas the young Frenchman, as all the world knows, makes but an indifferent seaman ; and though, for the most part, he fights well enough, somehow or other he seldom fights well enough to beat. How few sea-battles have the French ever won ! But more : how few ships have they ever carried by the board — that true criterion of naval courage ! But not a word against French bravery — there is plenty of it ; but not of the right sort. A Yankee's, or an English- man's, is the downright Waterloo " game." The French fight better on land ; and, not being essentially a mari- time people, they ought to stay there. The best of shipwrights, they are no sailors. 1 I do not wish to be understood as applauding the flogging system practised in men-of-war. As long, however, as navies are needed, there is no substitute for it. War being the greatest of evils, all its accessories necessarily partake of the same character ; and this is about all that can be said in defence of flogging. THE REINE BLANCHE. 123 And this carries me back to Reine Blanche, as noble a specimen of what wood and iron can make as ever floated. She was a new ship ; the present her maiden cruise. The greatest pains having been taken in her construc- tion, she was accounted the "crack" craft in the French navy. She is one of the heavy sixty-gun frigates now in vogue all over the world, and which we Yankees were the first to introduce. In action, these are the most murderous vessels ever launched. The model of the Reine Blanche has all that warlike comeliness only to be seen in a fine fighting-ship. Still, there is a good deal of French flummery about her — brass-plates and other gewgaws, stuck on al l over, like baubl e ]rm 3 hnndn o mr w omnn — — - "Xmong other things, she carries a stern gallery rest- ing on the uplifted hands of two Caryatides, larger than life. You step out upon this from the commodore's cabin. To behold the rich hangings, and mirrors, and mahogany within, one is almost prepared to see a bevy of ladies trip forth on the balcony for an airing. But come to tread the gun-deck, and all thoughts like these are put to flight. Such batteries of thunder- bolt hurlers ! with a sixty-eight-pounder or two thrown in as make- weights. On the spar-deck, also, are carron- ades of enormous calibre. Recently built, this vessel, of course, had the benefit of the latest improvements. I was quite amazed to see on what high principles of art some exceedingly simple things were done. But your Gaul is scientific about everything ; what other people accomplish by a few hard knocks, he delights in achieving by a complex arrangement of the pulley, lever, and screw. What demi-semi-quavers in a French air ! In exchan- 124 omoo. ging naval courtesies, I have known a French band play "Yankee Doodle" with such a string of variations, that no one but a " pretty 'cute " Yankee could tell what they were at. In the French navy they have no marines ; their men, taking turns at carrying the musket, are sailors one moment, and soldiers the next ; a fellow running aloft in his line-frock to-day, to-morrow stands sentry at the admiral's cabin-door. This is fatal to anything like proper sailor pride. To make a man a seaman, he should be put to no other duty. Indeed, a thorough tar is unfit for anything else ; and what is more, this fact is the best evidence of his being a true sailor. On board the Reine Blanche, they did not have enough to eat : and what they did have, was not of the right sort. Instead of letting the sailors file their teeth against the rim of a hard sea-biscuit, they baked their bread daily in pitiful little rolls. Then they had no " o ro & 5 " as a substitute, they drugged the poor fellows with a thin, sour wine — the juice of a few grapes, per- haps, to a pint of the juice of water-faucets. Moreover, the sailors asked for meat, and they gave them soup ; a rascally substitute, as they well knew. Ever since leaving home, they had been on " short allowance." At the present time, those belonging to the boats — and thus getting an occasional opportunity to run ashore — frequently sold their rations of bread to some less fortunate shipmate for six-fold its real value. Another thing tending to promote dissatisfaction among the crew was, their having such a devil of a fellow for a captain. He was one of those horrid naval bores — a great disciplinarian. In port, he kept them constantly exercising yards and sails, and manoeuvring THE EEINE BLANCHE. 125 with the boats ; and at sea, they were forever at quar- ters ; running in and out the enormous guns, as if their arms were made for nothing else. Then there was the admiral aboard, also ; and, no doubt, he too had a pater- nal eye over them. In the ordinary routine of duty, we could not but be struck with the listless, slovenly behaviour of these men ; there was nothing of the national vivacity in their movements ; nothing of the quick precision perceptible on the deck of a thoroughly disciplined armed vessel. All this, however, when we came to know the reason, was no matter of surprise ; three-fourths of them were pressed men. Some old merchant sailors had been seized the very day they landed from distant voyages ; while the landsmen, of whom there were many, had been driven down from the country in herds, and so sent to sea. At the time, I was quite amazed to hear of press- gangs in a day of comparative peace: but the anomaly is accounted for by the fact, that, of late, the French have been building up a great military marine, to take the place of that which Nelson gave to the waves of the sea at Trafalgar. But it is to be hoped that they are not building their ships for the people across the Chan- nel to take. In case of a war, what a fluttering of French ensigns there would be ! Though I say the French are no sailors, I am far from seeking to underrate them as a people. They are an ingenious and right gallant nation. And, as an American, I take pride in asserting it. 126 omoo. CHAPTER XXX. THEY TAKE US ASHORE. — WHAT HAPPENED THERE. Five days and nights, if I remember right, we were aboard the frigate. On the afternoon of the fifth, we were told that the next morning she sailed for Val- paraiso. Rejoiced at this, we prayed for a speedy pas- sage. But, as it turned out, the consul had no idea of letting us off so easily. To our no small surprise, an officer came along toward night, and ordered us out of irons. Being then mustered in the gangway, we were escorted into a cutter alongside, and pulled ashore. Accosted by Wilson as we struck the beach, he delivered us up to a numerous guard of natives, who at once conducted us to a house near by. Here we were made to sit down under a shade without ; and the con- sul and two elderly European residents passed by us, and entered. After some delay, during which we were much diverted by the hilarious good-nature of our guard — ■ one of our number was called out for, followed by an order for him to enter the house alone. On returning a moment after, he told us we had little to encounter. It had simply been asked, whether he still continued of the same mind; on replying yes, something was put down upon a piece of paper, and he was waved outside. All being summoned in rotation, my own turn came at last. Within, Wilson and his two friends were seated magisterially at a table — an inkstand, a pen, and a sheet of paper, lending quite a business-like air to the THEY TAKE US ASHORE. 127 apartment. These three gentlemen, being arrayed in coats and pantaloons, looked respectable, at least in a country where complete suits of garments are so seldom met with. One present essayed a solemn aspect ; but having a short neck and a full face only made out to look stupid. It was this individual who condescended to take a paternal interest in myself. After declaring my reso- lution with respect to the ship unalterable, I was pro- ceeding to withdraw, in compliance with a sign from the consul, when the stranger turned round to him, say- ing, " Wait a minute, if you please, Mr. Wilson ; let me talk to that youth. Come here, my young friend: I'm extremely sorry to see you associated with these bad men ; do you know what it will end in ? " " Oh, that's the lad that wrote the Round Robin," interposed the consul. u He and that rascally doctor are at the bottom of the whole affair — go outside, sir." I retired as from the presence of royalty ; backing out with many bows. The evidejit^ejttdice of Wilson against both the doc- tor aji^myself was by i\o means inexplicable. A man of any education before/the mast is always looked upon with 'disl ike by^J aig^captain ; and, never mind how peaceable he may be, should any disturbance arise, from his intellectual superiority, he is deemed to exert an underhand influence against the officers. Little as I had seen of Captain Guy, the few glances cast upon me after being on board a week or so, were sufficient to reveal his enmity — a feeling quickened by my undisguised companionship with Long Ghost, whom he both feared and cordially hated. Guy's relations with the consul readily explains the latter's hostility. The examination over, WIIsop and his friends ad- 128 omoo. vanced to the doorway ; when the former, assuming a severe expiession, pronounced our perverseness infatua- tion in the extreme. Nor was there any hope left : our last chance for pardon was gone. Even were we to become contrite, and crave permission to return to duty, it would not now be permitted. " Oh ! get along with your gammon, counsellor" ex- claimed Black Dan, absolutely indignant that his under- standing should be thus insulted. Quite enraged, Wilson bade him hold his peace ; and then, summoning a fat old native to his side, addressed him in Tahitian, giving directions for leading us away to a place of safe keeping. Hereupon, being marshalled in order, with the old man at our head, we were put in motion, with loud shouts, along a fine pathway, running far on, through wide groves of the cocoa-nut and bread-fruit. The rest of our escort trotted on beside us in high good humour ; jabbering broken English, and in a hun- dred ways giving us to understand that Wilson was no favourite of theirs, and that we were prime good fellows for holding out as we did. They seemed to know our whole history. The scenery around was delightful. The tropical day was fast drawing to a close ; and from where we were, the sun looked like a vast red fire burning in the woodlands — its rays falling aslant through the endless ranks of trees, and every leaf fringed with flame. Escaped from the confined decks of the frigate, the air breathed spices to us ; streams were heard flowing ; green boughs were rocking ; and far inland, all sunset flushed, rose the still, steep peaks of the island. As we proceeded, I was more and more struck by the picturesqueness of the wide shaded road. In several THEY TAKE US ASHORE. 129 places, durable bridges of wood were thrown over large watercourses ; others were spanned by a single arch of stone. In any part of the road three horsemen might have ridden abreast. This beautiful avenue — by far the best thing which civilisation has done for the island — is called by for- eigners " the Broom Road," though for what reason I do not know. Originally planned for the convenience of the missionaries journeying from one station to another, it almost completely encompasses the larger peninsula ; skirting for a distance of at least sixty miles along the low, fertile lands bordering the sea. But on the side next Taiarboo, or the lesser peninsula, it sweeps through a narrow, secluded valley, and thus crosses the island in that direction. The uninhabited interior, being almost impenetrable from the densely wooded glens, frightful precipices, and sharp mountain ridges absolutely inaccessible, is but little known, even to the natives themselves ; and so, instead of striking directly across from one village to another, they follow the Broom Road round and round. 1 It is by no means, however, altogether travelled on foot ; horses being now quite plentiful. They were in- troduced from Chili ; and, possessing all the gayety, fleetness, and docility of the Spanish breed, are admi- rably adapted to the tastes of the higher classes, who as equestrians have become very expert. The missionaries 1 Concerning the singular ignorance of the natives respecting their own country, it may be here observed, that a considerable inland lake — Waiherea by name — is known to exist, although their accounts of it strangely vary. Some told me it had no bottom, no outlet, and no inlet ; others, that it fed all the streams on the island. A sailor of my acquaintance said that he once visited this marvellous lake, as one of an exploring party from an English sloop-of-war. It was found to be a great curiosity ; very small, deep, and green ; a choice well of water bottled up among the mountains, and abounding with delicious fish. 130 OMOO. and chiefs never think of journeying except in the saddle ; and at all hours of the day you see the latter galloping along at full speed. Like the Sandwich Islanders, they ride like Pawnee-Loups. For miles and miles I have travelled the Broom Road, and never wearied of the continual change of scenery. But wherever it leads you — whether through level woods, across grassy glens, or over hills waving with palms — the bright blue sea on one side, and the green mountain pinnacles on the other, are always in sight. CHAPTER XXXI. THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE. About a mile from the village we came to a halt. It was a beautiful spot. A mountain stream here flowed at the foot of a verdant slope ; on one hand, it murmured along until the waters, spreading themselves upon a beach of small, sparkling shells, trickled into the sea ; on the other, was a long defile, where the eye pur- sued a gleaming, sinuous thread, lost in shade and verdure. The ground next the road was walled in by a low, rude parapet of stones ; and, upon the summit of the slope beyond, was a large native house, the thatch daz- zling white, and, in shape, an oval. • "Calabooza! Calabooza Beretanee ! " (the English Jail), cried our conductor, pointing to the building. For a few months past, having been used by the con- sul as a house of confinement for his refractory sailors, THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE. 131 it was thus styled to distinguish it from similar places in and about Papeetee. Though extremely romantic in appearance, on a near approach it proved but ill adapted to domestic comfort. In short, it was a mere shell, recently built, and still unfinished. It was open all round, and tufts of grass were growing here and there under the very roof. The only piece of furniture was the "stocks," a clumsy machine for keeping people in one place, which, I be- lieve, is pretty much out of date in most countries. It is still in use, however, among the Spaniards in South America ; from whom, it seems, the Tahitians have bor- rowed the contrivance, as well as the name by which all places of confinement are known among them. The stocks were nothing more than two stout timbers, about twenty feet in length, and precisely alike. One was placed edgeways on the ground, and the other rest- ing on top, left, at regular intervals along the seam, several round holes, the object of which was evident at a glance. By this time our guide had informed us that he went by the name of " Capin Bob" (Captain Bob); and a hearty old Bob he proved. It was just the name for him. From the first, so pleased were we with the old man, that we cheerfully acquiesced in his authority. Entering the building, he set us about fetching heaps of dry leaves to spread behind the stocks for a couch. A trunk of a small cocoanut-tree was then placed for a bolster — rather a hard one, but the natives are used to it. For a pillow, they use a little billet of wood, scooped out, and standing on four short legs — a sort of head- stool. These arrangements completed, Captain Bob pro- ceeded to " hannapar," or secure us, for the night. The 132 OMOO. upper timber of the machine being lifted at one end, and our ankles placed in the semicircular spaces of the lower one, the other beam was then dropped ; both being finally secured together by an old iron hoop at either extremity. This initiation was performed to the boister- ous mirth of the natives, and diverted ourselves not a little. Captain Bob now bustled about, like an old woman seeing the children to bed. A basket of baked " taro," or Indian turnip, was brought in, and we were given a piece all round. Then a great counterpane, of coarse, brown "tappa," was stretched over the whole party; and, after sundry injunctions to " moee-moee," and be " maitai " — in other words, to go to sleep, and be good boys — we were left to ourselves, fairly put to bed and tucked in. Much talk was now had concerning our prospects in life ; but the doctor and I, who lay side by side, thinking the occasion better adapted to meditation, kept pretty silent ; and, before long, the rest ceased conversing, and, wearied with loss of rest on board the frigate, were soon sound asleep. After sliding from one revery into another, I started, and gave the doctor a pinch. He was dreaming, how- ever; and, resolved to follow his example, I troubled him no more. How the rest managed, I know not ; but, for my own part, I found it very hard to get asleep. The conscious- ness of having one's foot pinned, and the impossibility of getting it anywhere else than just where it was, was most distressing. But this was not all ; there was no way of lying but straight on your back ; unless, to be sure, one's limb went round and round in the ankle, like a swivel. THE CALABOOZA BERETANEE. 133 Upon getting into a sort of doze, it was no wonder this uneasy posture gave me the nightmare. Under the delusion that I was about some gymnastics or other, I gave my unfortunate member such a twitch, that I started up with the idea that some one was dragging the stocks away. Captain Bob and his friends lived in a little hamlet hard by; and when morning showed in the East, the old gentleman came forth from that direction likewise, emerging from a grove, and saluting us loudly as he approached. Finding eveiybody awake, he set us at liberty ; and, leading us down to the stream, ordered every man to strip and bathe. "All han's, my boy, hanna-hanna, wash!" he cried. Bob was a linguist, and had been to sea in his day, as he many a time afterward told us. At this moment, we were all alone with him ; and it would have been the easiest thing in the world to have given him the slip ; but he seemed to have no idea of such a thing; treating us so frankly and cordially, indeed, that even had we thought of running, we would have been ashamed of attempting it. He very well knew, nevertheless (as we ourselves were not slow in finding out), that, for various reasons, any attempt of the kind, without some previously arranged plan for leaving the island, would be certain to fail. As Bob was a rare one every way, I must give some account of him. There was a good deal of " personal appearance " about him ; in short, he was a corpulent giant, over six feet in height, and literally as big round as a hogshead. The enormous bulk of some of the Tahitians has been frequently spoken of by voyagers. Beside being the English consul's jailer, as it were, 134 omoo. he carried on a little Tahitian farming ; that is to say, he owned several groves of the bread-fruit and palm, and never hindered their growing. Close by was a " taro " patch of his, which he occasionally visited. Bob seldom disposed of the produce of his lands ; it was all needed for domestic consumption. Indeed, for gormandising, I would have matched him against any three common-councilmen at a civic feast. A friend of Bob's told me, that, owing to his vora- ciousness, his visits to other parts of the island were much dreaded ; for, according to Tahitian customs, hospitality without charge is enjoined upon every one ; and though it is reciprocal in most cases, in Bob's it was almost out of the question. The damage done to a native larder in one of his morning calls was more than could hi made good by his entertainer's spending the holidays with him. The old man, as I have hinted, had, once upon a time, been a cruise or two in a whaling-vessel ; and, therefore, he prided himself upon his English. Having acquired what he knew of it in the forecastle, he talked little else than sailor phrases, which sounded whimsically enough. I asked him one day how old he was. " Olee ! " he exclaimed, looking very profound in consequence of thoroughly understanding so subtile a question — " Oh ! very olee — 'tousand 'ear — more — big man when Capin Tootee (Captain Cook) heavey in sight" (in sea par- lance, came into view). This was a thing impossible; but adapting my dis- course to the man, I rejoined — " Ah ! you see Capin Tootee — well, how you like him ? " " Oh ! he maitai (good) : friend of me, and know my wife." On my assuring him strongly, that he could not have THE CALABOOZA BEBETANEB. 135 been born at the time, he explained himself by saying, that he was speaking of his father all the while. This, indeed, might very well have been. It is a curious fact, that all these people, young and old, will tell you that they have enjoyed the honour of a personal acquaintance with the great navigator ; and if you listen to them, they will go on and tell anecdotes without end. This springs from nothing but their great desire to please ; well knowing that a more agreeable topic for a white man could not be selected. As for the anachronism of the thing, they seem to have no idea of it : days and years are all the same to them. After our sunrise bath, Bob once more placed us in the stocks, almost moved to tears at subjecting us to so great a hardship ; but he could not treat us otherwise, he said, on pain of the consul's displeasure. How long we were to be confined, he did not know ; nor what was to be done with us in the end. As noon advanced, and no signs of a meal were visi- ble, some one inquired whether we were to be boarded, as well as lodged, at the Hotel de Calabooza? " Vast heavey " (avast heaving, or wait a bit) — said Bob — "kow-kow" (food) "come ship by by." And, sure enough, along comes Rope Yarn with a wooden bucket of the Julia's villanous biscuit. With a grin, he said it was a present from Wilson ; it was all we were to get that day. A great cry was now raised ; and well was it for the land-lubber, that he had a pair of legs, and the men could not use theirs. One and all, we resolved not to touch the bread, come what come might ; and so we told the natives. Being extravagantly fond of ship-biscuit — the harder the better — they were quite overjoyed ; and offered to give us every day a small quantity of baked bread-fruit 136 omoo. and Indian turnip in exchange for the bread. This we agreed to ; and every morning afterward, when the bucket came, its contents were at once handed over to Bob and his friends, who never ceased munching until nightfall. Our exceedingly frugal meal of bread-fruit over, Cap- tain Bob waddled up to us with a couple of long poles hooked at one end, and several large baskets of woven cocoanut branches. Not far off was an extensive grove of orange trees in full bearing ; and myself and another were selected to go with him, and gather a supply for the party. When we went in among the trees, the sumptuousness of the orchard was unlike anything I had ever seen ; while the fragrance shaken from the gently waving boughs regaled our senses most delightfully. In many places the trees formed a dense shade, spread- ing overhead a dark, rustling vault, groined with boughs, and studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like gilded balls. In several places, the overladen branches were borne to the earth, hiding the trunk in a tent of foliage. Once fairly in the grove, we could see nothing else : it was oranges all round. To preserve the fruit from bruising, Bob, hooking the twigs with his pole, let them fall into his basket. But tihs would not do for us ; seizing hold of a bough, we brought such a shower to the ground, that our old friend was fain to run from under. Heedless of remonstrance, we then reclined in the shade, and feasted to our hearts' content. Heaping up the baskets afterwards, we re- turned to our comrades, by whom our arrival was hailed with loud plaudits ; and in a marvellously short time, nothing was left of the oranges we brought but the rinds. PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI. 137 While inmates of the Calabooza, we had as much of the fruit as we wanted ; and to this cause, and others that might be mentioned, may be ascribed the speedy restoration of our sick to comparative health. The orange of Tahiti is delicious — small and sweet, with a thin, dry rind. Though now abounding, it was unknown before Cook's time, to whom the natives are indebted for so great a blessing. He likewise introduced several other kinds of fruit ; among these were the fig, pine-apple, and lemon, now seldom met with. The lime still grows, and some of the poorer natives express the juice to sell to the shipping. It is highly valued as an anti-scorbutic. Nor was the variety of foreign fruits and vegetables which were introduced the only benefit conferred by the first visitors to the Society group. Cattle and sheep were left at various places. More of them anon. Thus, after all that has of late years been done for these islanders, Cook and Vancouver may, in one sense at least, be considered their greatest benefactors. CHAPTER XXXII. PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI. As I happened to arrive at the island at a very inter- esting period in its political affairs, it may be well to give some little account here of the proceedings of the French, by way of episode to the narrative. My infor- mation was obtained at the time from the general reports then rife among the natives, as well as from what I learned upon a subsequent visit, and reliable accounts which I have seen since reaching home. 138 omoo. It seems, that for some time back the French had been making repeated ineffectual attempts to plant a Roman Catholic mission here. But, invariably treated with contumely, they sometimes met with open violence ; and, in every case, those directly concerned in the enter- prise were ultimately forced to depart. In one instance, two priests, Laval and Caset, after enduring a series of persecutions, were set upon by the natives, maltreated, and finally carried aboard a small trading schooner, which eventually put them ashore at Wallis Island — a savage place — some two thousand miles to the westward. Now, that the resident English missionaries author- ised the banishment of these priests, is a fact undenied by themselves. I was also repeatedly informed, that by their inflammatory harangues they instigated the riots which preceded the sailing of the schooner. At all events, it is certain that their unbounded influence with the natives would easily have enabled them to prevent everything that took place on this occasion, had they felt so inclined. Melancholy aj"such an example of intolerance on the part of Protestant missionaries must appear, it is not the only one, and by no means the most flagrant, which might be presented. But I forbear to mention any others ; since they have been more than hinted at by re- cent voyagers, and their repetition here would, perhaps, be attended with no good effect. Besides, the conduct of the Sandwich Island missionaries, in particular, has latterly much amended in this respect. The treatment of the two priests formed the princi- pal ground (and the only justifiable one) upon which Du Petit Thouars demanded satisfaction ; and which subsequently led to his seizure of the island. In addi- PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI. 139 tion to other things, he also charged, that the flag of Merenhout, the consul, had been repeatedly insulted, and the property of a certain French resident violently appropriated by the government. In the latter instance, the natives were perfectly in the right. At that time, the law against the traffic in ardent spirits (every now and then suspended and revived) happened to be in force ; and finding a large quantity on the premises of Victor, a low, knavish adventurer from Marseilles, the Tahitians pronounced it forfeit. For these, and similar alleged outrages, a large pecu- niary restitution was demanded (110,000), which there being no exchequer to supply, the island was forthwith seized, under cover of a mock treaty, dictated to the chiefs on the gun-deck of Du Petit Thouar's frigate. But, notwithstanding this formality, there now seems little doubt that the downfall of the Pomarees was decided upon at the Tuilleries. After establishing the Protectorate, so called, the rear-admiral sailed ; leaving M. Bruat governor, assisted by Reine and Carpegne, civilians, named members of the council of government, and Merenhout, the consul, now made commissioner royal. No soldiers, however, were landed, until several months afterward. As men, Reine and Carpegne were not disliked by the natives ; but Bruat and Merenhout they bitterly detested. In several interviews with the poor queen, the unfeeling governor sought to terrify her into compliance with his demands ; clapping his hand upon his sword, shaking his fist in her face, and swearing violently. " Oh, king of a great nation," said Pomaree, in her letter to Louis Philippe, " fetch away this man ; I and my people can- not endure his evil doings. He is a shameless man." Although the excitement among the natives did not 140 OMOO. wholly subside upon the rear-admiral's departure, no overt act of violence immediately followed. The queen had fled to Imeeo ; and the dissensions among the chiefs, together with the ill-advised conduct of the mis- sionaries, prevented a union upon some common plan of resistance. But the great body of the people, as well as their queen, confidently relied upon the speedy interposition of England — a nation bound to them by many ties, and which, more than once, had solemnly guaranteed their independence. As for the missionaries, they openly defied the French governor, childishly predicting fleets and armies from Britain. But what is the welfare of a spot like Tahiti, to the mighty interests of France and England ? There was a remonstrance on one side, and a reply on the other ; and there the matter rested. For once in their brawling lives, St. George and St. Denis were hand and glove ; and they were not going to cross sabres about Tahiti. During my stay upon the island, so far as I could see, there was little to denote that any change had taken place in the government. Such laws as they had were administered the same as ever; the missionaries went about unmolested, and comparative tranquillity every- where prevailed. Nevertheless, I sometimes heard the natives inveighing against the French (no favourites, by the by, throughout Polynesia), and bitterly regret- ting that the queen had not, at the outset, made a stand. In the house of the chief Adea, frequent discussions took place, concerning the ability of the island to cope with the French : the number of fighting men and muskets among the natives were talked of, as well as the pro- priety of fortifying several heights overlooking Papee- PROCEEDINGS OF THE FRENCH AT TAHITI. 141 tee. Imputing these symptoms to the mere resentment of a recent outrage, and not to any determined spirit of resistance, I little anticipated the gallant, though use- less warfare, so soon to follow my departure. At a period subsequent to my first visit, the island, which before was divided into nineteen districts, with a native chief over each, in capacity of governor and judge, was, by Bruat, divided into four. Over these he set as many recreant chiefs, Kitoti, Tati, Utamai, and Paraita ; to whom he paid $1,000 each, to secure their assistance in carrying out his evil designs. The first blood shed, in any regular conflict, was at Mahanar, upon the peninsula of Taraiboo. The fight originated in the seizure of a number of women from the shore, by men belonging to one of the French ves- sels of war. In this affair, the islanders fought desper- ately, killing about fifty of the enemy, and losing ninety of their own number. The French sailors and marines, who, at the time, were reported to be infuriated with liquor, gave no quarter ; and the survivors only saved themselves by fleeing to the mountains. Subsequently, the battles of Hararparpi and Fararar were fought, in which the invaders met with indifferent success. Shortly after the engagement at Hararparpi, three Frenchmen were waylaid in a pass of the valleys, and murdered by the incensed natives. One was Lafevre, a notorious scoundrel, and a spy, whom Bruat had sent to conduct a certain Major Fergus (said to be a Pole), to the hiding-place of four chiefs, whom the governor wished to seize and execute. This circumstance vio- lently inflamed the hostility of both parties. About this time, Kitoti, a depraved chief, and the pliant tool of Bruat, was induced by him to give a great feast in the Vale of Paree, to which all his countrymen 142 omoo. were invited. The governor's object was to gain ovei all he could to his interests ; he supplied an abundance of wine and brandy, and a scene of bestial intoxication was the natural consequence. Before it came to this, however, several speeches were made by the islanders. One of these, delivered by an ancient warrior, who had formerly been at the head of the celebrated Aeorai Society, was characteristic. " This is a very good feast," said the reeling old man, " and the wine also is very good; but you evil-minded Wee-Wees (French), and you false-hearted men of Tahiti, are all very bad." By the latest accounts, most of the islanders still refuse to submit to the French; and what turn events may hereafter take it is hard to predict. At any rate, these disorders must accelerate the final extinction of their race. Along with the few officers left by Du Petit Thouars, were several French priests, for whose unobstructed exertions in the dissemination of their faith, the strong- est guarantees were provided by an article of the treaty. But no one was bound to offer them facilities, much less a luncheon, the first day they went ashore. True, they had plenty of gold ; but to the natives it was anathema — taboo — and, for several hours and some odd min- utes they would not touch it. Emissaries of the Pope and the devil, as the strangers were considered — the smell of sulphur hardly yet shaken out of their canoni- cals — what islander would venture to jeopardise his soul, and call down a blight upon his bread-fruit, by holding any intercourse with them? That morning the priests actually picknicked in a grove of cocoa-nut trees ; but, before night, Christian hospitality — in exchange for a commercial equivalent of hard dollars — was given them in an adjoining house. WE RECEIVE CALLS. 143 Wanting in civility, as the conduct of the English missionaries may be thought, in withholding a decent reception to these persons, the latter were certainly to blame in needlessly placing themselves in so unpleasant a predicament. Under far better auspices, they might have settled upon some one of the thousand unconverted isles of the Pacific, rather than have forced themselves thus upon a people already professedly Christians. CHAPTER XXXIII. WE RECEIVE CALLS AT THE HOTEL DE CALABOOZA. Our place of confinement being open all round, and so near the Broom Road, of course we were in plain sight of everybody passing ; and, therefore, we had no lack of visitors among such an idle, inquisitive set as the Tahitians. For a few days, they were coming and going continually ; while thus ignobly fast by the foot, we were fain to give passive audience. During this period, we were the lions of the neigh- bourhood ; and, no doubt, strangers from the distant villages were taken to see the " Karhowrees " (white men), in the same way that countrymen, in a city, are gallanted to the Zoological Gardens. All this gave us a fine opportunity of making obser- vations. I was painfully struck by the considerable number of sickly or deformed persons ; undoubtedly made so by a virulent complaint, which, under native treatment, almost invariably affects, in the end, the muscles and bones of the body. In particular, there is 144 omoo. a distortion of the back, most unsightly to behold, originating in a horrible form of the malady. Although this, and other bodily afflictions, were un- known before the discovery of the islands by the whites, there are several cases found of the Fa-Fa, or elephan- tiasis — a native disease, which seems to have prevailed among them from the earliest antiquity. Affecting the legs and feet alone, it swells them, in some instances, to the girth of a man's body, covering the skin with scales. It might be supposed, that one thus afflicted would be incapable of walking ; but, to all appearance, they seem to be nearly as active as anybody ; apparently suffering no pain, and bearing the calamity with a degree of cheer- fulness truly marvellous. The Fa-Fa is very gradual in its approaches, and years elapse before the limb is fully swollen. Its origin is ascribed by the natives to various causes : but the general impression seems to be, that it arises in most cases from the eating of unripe bread-fruit and Indian turnip. So far as I could find out, it is not hereditary. In no stage do they attempt a cure ; the complaint being held incurable. Speaking of the Fa-Fa, reminds me of a poor fellow, a sailor, whom I afterward saw at Roorootoo, a lone island, some two days' sail from Tahiti. The island is very small, and its inhabitants nearly extinct. We sent a boat off to see whether any yams were to be had, as formerly; the yams of Roorootoo were as famous among the islands round about as Sicily oranges in the Mediterranean. Going ashore, to my surprise, I was accosted, near a little shanty of a church, by a white man, who limped forth from a wretched hut. His hair and beard were unshorn, his face deadly pale and haggard, and one limb swelled with the Fa-Fa to WE RECEIVE CALLS. 145 an incredible bigness. This was the first instance of a foreigner suffering from it that I had ever seen or heard of ; and the spectacle shocked me accordingly. He had been there for years. From the first symp- toms, he could not believe his complaint to be what it really was, and trusted it would soon disappear. But when it became plain that his only chance for recovery was a speedy change of climate, no ship would receive him as a sailor : to think of being taken as a passenger, was idle. This speaks little for the humanity of sea captains ; but the truth is, that those in the Pacific have little enough of the virtue ; and, nowadays, when so many charitable appeals are made to them, they have become callous. I pitied the poor fellow from the bottom of my heart ; but nothing could I do, as our captain was inexorable. " Why," said he, " here we are — started on a six months' cruise — I can't put back ; and he is better off on the island than at sea. So on Roorootoo he must die." And probably he did. I afterward heard of this melancholy object, from two seamen. His attempts to leave were still unavail- ing, and his hard fate was fast closing in. Notwithstanding the physical degeneracy of the Tahitians as a people, among the chiefs, individuals of personable figures are still frequently met with ; and, occasionally, majestic-looking men, and diminutive women as lovely as the nymphs who, nearly a cen- tury ago, swam round the ships of Wallis. In these instances, Tahitian beauty is quite as seducing as it proved to the crew of the Bounty; the young girls being just such creatures as a poet would picture in the tropics — soft, plump, and dreamy-eyed. The natural complexion of both sexes is quite light ; 146 omoo. but the males appear much darker, from their exposure to the sun. A dark complexion, however, in a man, is highly esteemed, as indicating strength of both body and soul. Hence there is a saying of great antiquity among them, "If dark the cheek of the mother, The son will sound the war-conch; If strong her frame, he will give laws." With this idea of manliness, no wonder the Tahitians regard all pale and tepid-looking Europeans as weak and feminine ; whereas a sailor, with a cheek like the breast of a roast turkey, is held a lad of brawn : to use their own phrase, a " taata tona," or man of bones. Speaking of bones, recalls an ugly custom of theirs, now obsolete — that of making fish-hooks and gimlets out of those of their enemies. This beats the Scandi- navians turning people's skulls into cups and saucers. But to return to the Calabooza Beretanee. Immense was the interest we excited among the throngs that called there ; they would stand talking about us by the hour, growing most unnecessarily excited too, and dan- cing up and down with all the vivacity of their race. They invariably sided with us ; flying out against the consul, and denouncing him as " Ita maitai nuee," or very bad exceedingly. They must have borne him some grudge or other. Nor were the women, sweet souls, at all backward in visiting. Indeed, they manifested even more interest than the men ; gazing at us with eyes full of a thousand meanings, and conversing with marvellous rapidity. But, alas ! inquisitive though they were, and, doubtless, taking some passing compassion on us, there was little real feeling in them after all, and still less sentimental WE RECEIVE CALLS. 147 sympathy. Many of them laughed outright at us, not- ing only what was ridiculous in our plight. I think it was the second day of our confinement, that a wild, beautiful girl burst into the Calabooza, and throwing herself into an arch attitude, stood afar off, and gazed at us. She was a heartless one : — tickled to death with Black Dan's nursing his chafed ankle, and indulging in certain moral reflections on the consul and Captain Guy. After laughing her fill at him, she con- descended to notice the rest ; glancing from one to another, in the most methodical and provoking manner imaginable. Whenever anything struck her comically, you saw it like a flash — her finger levelled instanta- neously, and, flinging herself back, she gave loose to strange, hollow little^not ea of lau ghte r that sounded like the bass^of^amusic-box, playing aHv^iy^air with the lid Now, I knew not that there was anything in my own appearance calculated to disarm ridicule ; and, indeed, to have looked at all heroic, under the circumstances, would have been rather difficult. Still, I could notjalit feel exceedingly annoyed at the prospect^o^oeing screamed at in turn, by this mischievous young witch, even though she were but an islander. And, to tell a secret, her beauty had something to do with this sort of feeling; and, pinioned as I was, to a log, and clad most unbecomingly, I began to grow sentimental. Ere her glance fell upon me, I had, unconsciously, thrown myself into the most graceful attitude I could assume, leaned my head upon my hand, and summoned up as abstracted an expression as possible. Though my face was averted, I soon felt it flush, and knew that the glance was on me : deeper and deeper grew the flush, and not a sound of laughter. 148 omoo. Delicious thought ! she was moved at the sight of me. I could stand it no longer, but started up. Lo ! there she was ; her great hazel eyes rounding and rounding in her head, like two stars, her whole frame in a merry quiver, and an expression about the mouth that was sudden and violent death to anything like sentiment. The next moment she spun round, and, bursting from peal to peal of laughter, went racing out of the Cala- booza ; and, in mercy to me, never returned. CHAPTER XXXIV. LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA. A few days passed; and, at last, our docility was rewarded by some indulgence on the part of Captain Bob. He allowed the whole party to be at large during the day ; only enjoining upon us ahvays to keep within hail. This, to be sure, was in positive disobedience to Wilson's orders ; and so, care had to be taken that he should not hear of it. There was little fear of the natives telling him ; but strangers travelling the Broom Road might. By way of precaution, boys were stationed as scouts along the road. At sight of a white man, they sounded the alarm ; when we all made for our respective holes (the stocks being purposely left open) : the beam then descended, and we were prisoners. As soon as the trav- eller was out of sight, of course we were liberated. Notwithstanding the regular supply of food which we obtained from Captain Bob and his friends, it was so small, that we often felt most intolerably hungry. We LIFE AT THE CALABOOZA. 149 could not blame them for not bringing us more, for we soon became aware that they had to pinch themselves, in order to give us what they did ; beside, they received nothing for their kindness but the daily bucket of bread. Among a people like the Tahitians, what we call "hard times" can only be experienced in a scarcity of edibles ; yet, so destitute are many of the common peo- ple, that this most distressing consequence of civilisation may be said, with them, to be ever present. To be sure, the natives about the Calabooza, had abundance of limes and oranges ; but what were these good for, except to impart a still keener edge to appetites which there was so little else to gratify ? During the height of the bread- fruit season, they fare better; but, at other times, the demands of the shipping exhaust the uncultivated resources of the island ; and the lands being mostly owned by the chiefs, the inferior orders have to suffer for their cupidity. Deprived of their nets, many of them would starve. As Captain Bob insensibly remitted his watchfulness, and we began to stroll farther and farther from the Calabooza, we managed by a systematic foraging upon the country round about, to make up for some of our deficiencies. And fortunate it was, that the houses of the wealthier natives were just as open to us as those of the most destitute : we were treated as kindly in one as the other. Once in a while we came in at the death of a chief's pig ; the noise of whose slaughtering was generally to be heard at a great distance. An occasion like this gathers the neighbours together, and they have a bit of a feast, where a stranger is always welcome. A good loud squeal, therefore, was music in our ears. It showed something going on in that direction. 150 OMOO. Breaking in upon the party tumultuously, as we did, we always created a sensation. Sometimes, we found the animal still alive and struggling ; in which case, it was generally dropped at our approach. To provide for these emergencies, Flash Jack generally repaired to the scene of operations, with a sheath knife between his teeth, and a club in his hand. Others were exceedingly officious in singeing off the bristles, and disembowelling. Doctor Long Ghost and myself, however, never meddled with these preliminaries, but came to the feast itself, with unimpaired energies. Like all lank men, my long friend had an appetite of his own. Others occasionally went about seeking what they might devour, but he was always on the alert. He had an ingenious way of obviating an inconven- ience which we all experienced at times. The islanders seldom use salt with their food; so he begged Rope Yarn to bring him some from the ship; also a little pepper, if he could ; which, accordingly, was done. This he placed in a small leather wallet — a " monkey bag " (so called by sailors) — usually worn as a purse about the neck. " In my poor opinion," said Long Ghost, as he tucked the wallet out of sight, " it behooves a stranger in Tahiti to have a knife in readiness, and his caster slung." VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 151 CHAPTER XXXV. VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. We had not been many days ashore, when Doctor Johnson was espied coming along the Broom Road. We had heard that he meditated a visit, and suspected what he was after. Being upon the consul's hands, all our expenses were of course payable by him in his official capacity ; and, therefore, as a friend of Wilson, and sure of good pay, the shore doctor had some idea of allowing us to run up a bill with him. True, it was rather awk- ward to ask us to take medicines, which, on board the ship, he told us were not needed. However, he resolved to put a bold face on the matter, and give us a call. His approach was announced by one of the scouts, upon which some one suggested that we should let him enter, and then put him in the stocks. But Long Ghost proposed better sport. What it was, we shall presently see. Very bland and amiable, Dr. Johnson advanced, and, resting his cane on the stocks, glanced to right and left, as we lay before him. " Well, my lads," he began, "how do you find yourselves, to-day ? *' Looking very demure, the men made some rejoinder ; and he went on. " Those poor fellows I saw the other day — the sick, I mean — how are they ? " and he scrutinized the com- pany. At last, he singled out one who was assuming a most unearthly appearance, and remarked, that he looked as if he were extremely ill. " Yes," said the sailor dolefully, " I'm af eared, doctor, I'll soon be losing the 152 omoo. number of my mess ! " (a sea phrase, for departing this life), and he closed his eyes, and moaned. " What does he say ? " said Johnson, turning round eagerly. " Why," exclaimed Flash Jack, who volunteered as interpreter, " he means he's going to croak " (die). " Croak! and what does that mean, applied to a patient ? " " Oh ! I understand," said he, when the word was explained ; and he stepped over the stocks, and felt the man's pulse. " What's his name ? " he asked, turning this time to old Navy Bob. " We calls him Jingling Joe," replied that worthy. " Well, then, men, you must take good care of poor Joseph; and I will send him a powder, which must be taken according to the directions. Some of you know how to read, I presume ? " " That ere young cove does," replied Bob, pointing toward the place where I lay, as if he were directing attention to a sail at sea. After examining the rest — some of whom were really invalids, but convalescent, and others only pretending to be labouring under divers maladies, Johnson turned round, and addressed the party. " Men," said he, " if any more of you are ailing, speak up and let me know. By order of the consul, I'm to call every day ; so if any of you are at all sick, it's my duty to prescribe for you. This sudden change from ship fare to shore living, plays the deuce with you sail- ors ; so be cautious about eating fruit. Good-day ! I'll send }'ou the medicines the first thing in the morning." Now, I am inclined to suspect, that with all his want of understanding, Johnson must have had some idea VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 153 that we were quizzing him. Still, that was nothing, so long as it answered his purpose ; and therefore, if he did see through us, he never showed it. Sure enough, at the time appointed, along came a native lad with a small basket of cocoa-nut stalks, filled with powders, pill-boxes, and vials, each with names and directions written in a large, round hand. The sailors, one and all, made a snatch at the collection, under the strange impression that some of the vials were seasoned with spirits. But, asserting his privilege as physician, to the first reading of the labels, Doctor Long Ghost was at last permitted to take possession of the basket. The first thing lighted upon was a large vial, labelled — " For William — rub well in." This vial certainly had a spirituous smell ; and upon handing it to the patient, he made a summary inter- nal application of its contents. The doctor looked aghast. There was now a mighty commotion. Powders and pills were voted mere drugs in the market, and the holders of vials were pronounced lucky dogs. Johnson must have known enough of sailors to make some of his medicines palatable — this, at least, Long Ghost sus- pected. Certain it was, every one took to the vials ; if at all spicy, directions were unheeded, their contents all going one road. The largest one of all, quite a bottle indeed, and hav- ing a sort of burnt brandy odour, was labelled — " For Daniel ; drink freely, and until relieved." This, Black Dan proceeded to do ; and would have made an end of of it at once, had not the bottle, after a hard struggle, been snatched from his hands, and passed round, like a jovial decanter. The old tar had complained of the effects of an immoderate eating of fruit. 154 omoo. Upon calling the following morning, our physician found his precious row of patients reclining behind the stocks, and doing " as well as could be expected." But the pills and powders were found to have been perfectly inactive : probably because none had been taken. To make them efficacious, it was suggested that, for the future, a bottle of Pisco should be sent along with them. According to Flash Jack's notions, unmitigated medical compounds were but dry stuff at the best, and needed something good to wash them down. Thus far, our own M.D., Doctor Long Ghost, after starting the frolic, had taken no f urtlier part in it ; but on the physician's third visit, he took him to one side, and had a private confabulation. What it was, exactly, we could not tell ; but from certain illustrative signs and gestures, I fancied that he was describing the symp- toms of some mysterious disorganisation of the vitals, which must have come on within the hour. Assisted by his familiarity with medical terms, he seemed to pro- duce a marked impression. At last, Johnson went his way, promising aloud that he would send Long Ghost what he desired. When the medicine boy came along the following morning, the doctor was the first to accost him, walking off with a small purple vial. This time, there was little else in the basket but a case bottle of the burnt brandy cordial, which, after much debate, was finally disposed of by some one pouring the contents, little by little, into the half of a cocoa-nut shell, and so giving all who de- sired, a glass. No further medicinal cheer remaining, the men dispersed. An hour or two passed, when Flash Jack directed attention to my long friend, who, since the medicine VISIT FROM AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 155 boy left, had not been noticed till now. With eyes closed, he was lying behind the stocks, and Jack was lifting his arm and letting it fall as if life were extinct. On running up with the rest, I at once connected the phenomenon with the mysterious vial. Searching his pocket, I found it, and holding it up, it proved to be laudanum. Flash Jack, snatching it from my hand in a rapture, quickly informed all present what it was ; and with much glee, proposed a nap for the company. Some of them not comprehending him exactly, the apparently defunct Long Ghost — who lay so still that I a little suspected the genuineness of his sleep — was rolled about as an illustration of the virtues of the vial's contents. The idea tickled everybody mightily; and throwing themselves down, the magic draught was passed from hand to hand. Thinking that, as a matter of course, they must at once become insensible, each man, upon taking his sip, fell back, and closed his yes. There was little fear of the result, since the narcotic was equally distributed. But, curious to see how it would operate, I raised myself gently after a while, and looked around. It was about noon, and perfectly still ; and as we all daily took the siesta, I was not much sur- prised to find every one quiet. Still, in one or two instances, I thought I detected a little peeping. Presently, I heard a footstep, and saw Dr. Johnson approaching. And perplexed enough did he look at the sight of his prostrate file of patients, plunged apparently in such unaccountable slumbers. " Daniel," he cried, at last, punching in the side with his cane, the individual thus designated — " Daniel, my good fellow, get up! do you bear ? " 156 omoo. But Black Dan was immovable ; and he poked the next sleeper. " Joseph, Joseph ! come, wake up ! it's me, Doctor Johnson." But Jingling Joe, with mouth open, and eyes shut, was not to be started. " Bless my soul ! " he exclaimed, with uplifted hands and cane, "what's got into 'em? I say, men" — he shouted, running up and down — " come to life, men ! what under the sun's the matter with you ? " and he struck the stocks, and bawled with increased vigour. At last he paused, folded his hands over the head of his cane, and steadfastly gazed upon us. The notes of the nasal orchestra were rising and falling upon his ear, and a new idea suggested itself. " Yes, yes ; the rascals must have been getting booz}^. Well, it's none of my business — I'll be off;" and off he went. No sooner was he out of sight, than nearly all started to their feet, and a hearty laugh ensued. Like myself, most of them had been watching the event from under a sly eyelid. By this time, too, Doctor Long Ghost was as wide awake as anybody. What were his reasons for taking laudanum, — if, indeed, he took any whatever, — is best known to himself; and, as it is neither mine nor the reader's business, we will say no more about it. BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN. 157 CHAPTER XXXVL WE ABE CARRIED BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN. We had been inmates of the Calabooza Beretanee about two weeks, when one morning, Captain Bob, coming from the bath, in a state of utter nudity, brought into the building an armful of old tappa, and began to dress to go out. The operation was quite simple. The tappa — of the coarsest kind — was in one long, heavy piece ; and, fastening one end to a column of hibiscus wood, sup- porting the Calabooza, he went off a few paces, and putting the other about his waist, wound himself right up to the post. This unique costume, in rotundity something like a farthingale, added immensely to his large bulk ; so much so, that he fairly waddled in his gait. But he was only adhering to the fashion of his fathers ; for, in the olden time, the kipee, or big girdle, was quite the mode for both sexes. Bob, despising recent innovations, still clung to it. He was a gentle- man of the old school — one of the last of the Kihees. He now told us, that he had orders to take us before the consul. Nothing loth, we formed in procession ; and, with the old man at our head, sighing and labour- ing like an engine, and flanked by a guard of some twenty natives, we started for the village. Arrived at the consular office, we found Wilson there, and four or five Europeans, seated in a row facing us ; probably with the view of presenting as judicial an appearance as possible. On one side was a couch, where Captain Guy reclined. 158 omoo. He looked convalescent ; and, as we found out, intended soon to go aboard his ship. He said nothing, but left every thing to the consul. The latter now rose, and drawing forth a paper from a large roll, tied with red tape, commenced reading aloud. It purported to be, "The affidavit of John Jermin, first officer of the British Colonial barque, Julia ; Guy, Master ; " and proved to be a long statement of matters, from the time of leaving Sydney, down to our arrival in the harbour. Though artfully drawn up, so as to bear hard against every one of us, it was pretty correct in the details; excepting, that it was wholly silent as to the manifold derelictions of the mate himself — a fact which imparted unusual significance to the concluding sen- tence, " And furthermore, this deponent sayeth not." No comments were made, although we all looked round for the mate, to see whether it was possible that he would have authorized this use of his name. But he was not present. The next document produced was the deposition of the captain himself. As on all other occasions, however, he had very little to say for himself, and it was soon set aside. The third affidavit was that of the seamen remaining aboard the vessel, including the traitor Bungs, who, it seemed, had turned ship's evidence. It was an atrocious piece of exaggeration, from beginning to end ; and those who signed it could not have known what they were about. Certainly Wymontoo did not, though his mark was there. In vain the consul commanded silence dur- ing the reading of this paper ; comments were shouted out upon every paragraph. The affidavits read, Wilson, who, all the while, looked BEFORE THE CONSUL AND CAPTAIN. 159 as stiff as a poker, solemnly drew forth the ship's articles from their tin case. This document was a discoloured, musty, bilious-looking affair, and hard to read. When finished, the consul held it up ; and, pointing to the marks of the ship's company, at the bottom, asked us, one by one, whether we acknowledged the same for our own. "What's the use of asking that?" said Black Dan. " Captain Guy there knows as well as we they are." " Silence, sir ! " said Wilson, who, intending to pro- duce a suitable impression by this ridiculous parade, was not a little mortified by the old sailor's bluntness. A pause of a few moments now ensued ; during which the bench of judges communed with Captain Guy, in a low tone, and the sailors canvassed the motives of the consul in having the affidavits taken. The general idea seemed to be, that it was done with a view of " bouncing," or frightening us into submission. Such proved to be the case ; for Wilson, rising to his feet again, addressed us as follows : — " You see, men, that every preparation has been made to send you to Sydney for trial. The Rosa (a small Australian schooner, lying in the harbour) will sail for that place in the course of ten days, at farthest. The Julia sails on a cruise this day week. Do you still refuse duty ? " We did. Hereupon the consul and captain exchanged glances ; and the latter looked bitterly disappointed. Presently I noticed Guy's eye upon me ; and, for the first time, he spoke, and told me to come near. I stepped forward. " Was it not you that was taken off the island?" " It was." 160 OMOO. " It is you, then, who owe your life to my humanity. Yet this is the gratitude of a sailor, Mr. Wilson ! " " Not so, sir." And I at once gave him to understand, that I was perfectly acquainted with his motives in send- ing a boat into the bay ; his crew was reduced, and he merely wished to procure the sailor whom he expected to find there. The ship was the means of my deliver- ance, and no thanks to the benevolence of its cap- tain. Doctor Long Ghost, also, had a word to say. In two masterly sentences he summed up Captain Guy's char- acter, to the complete satisfaction of every seaman present. Matters were now growing serious ; especially as the sailors became riotous, and talked about taking the consul and the captain back to the Calabooza with them. The other judges fidgeted, and loudly commanded silence. It was at length restored ; when Wilson, for the last time addressing us, said something more about the Rosa and Sydney, and concluded by reminding us, that a week would elapse ere the Julia sailed. Leaving these hints to operate for themselves, he dis- missed the party, ordering Captain Bob and his friends to escort us back whence we came. FRENCH PRIESTS PAT THEIR RESPECTS. 161 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS. A day or two after the events just related, we were lounging in the Calabooza Beretanee, when we were honoured by a visit from three of the French priests ; and as about the only notice ever taken of us by the English missionaries was their leaving their cards for us in the shape of a package of tracts, we could not help thinking, that the Frenchmen, in making a personal call, were at least much better bred. By this time they had settled themselves down quite near our habitation. A pleasant little stroll down the Broom Road, and a rustic cross peeped through the trees ; and soon you came to as charming a place as one would wish to see : a soft knoll, planted with old bread- fruit trees ; in front, a savannah, sloping to a grove of palms, and, between these, glimpses of blue sunny waves. On the summit of the knoll was a rude chapel of bamboos ; quite small, and surmounted by the cross. Between the canes, at nightfall, the natives stole peeps at a small portable altar ; a crucifix to correspond, and gilded candlesticks and censers. Their curiosity carried them no further; nothing could induce them to worship there. Such queer ideas as they entertained of the hated strangers ! Masses and chants were nothing more than evil spells. As for the priests themselves, they were no better than diabolical sorcerers ; like those who, in old times, terrified their fathers. Close by the chapel, was a range of native houses, rented from a chief, and handsomely furnished. Here 162 omoo. lived the priests, and very comfortably too. They looked sanctimonious enough abroad, but that went for nothing : since at home, in their retreat, they were a club of Friar Tucks ; holding priestly wassail over many a good cup of red brandy, and rising late in the morning. Pity it was they couldn't marry — pity for the ladies of the island, I mean, and the cause of morality; for what business had the ecclesiastical old bachelors with ^such a set of trim little native handmaidens? These damsels were their first converts ; and devoted ones they were. The priests, as I said before, were accounted necro- mancers : the appearance of two of our three visitors might have justified the conceit. They were little, dried-up Frenchmen, in long, straight gowns of black cloth, and unsightly three-cornered hats, so preposterously big, that, in putting them on, the rev- erend fathers seemed extinguishing themselves. Their companion was dressed differently. He wore a sort of yellow flannel morning-gown, and a broad-brimmed Manilla hat. Large and portly, he was also hale and fifty; with a complexion like an autumnal leaf, hand- some blue eyes, fine teeth, and a racy Milesian brogue. In short, he was an Irishman ; Father Murphy by name ; and, as such, pretty well known, and very thoroughly disliked, throughout all the Protestant missionary settle- ments in Polynesia. In early youth, he had been sent to a religious seminary in France ; and, taking orders there, had but once or twice afterward revisited his native land. Father Murphy marched up to us briskly; and the first words he uttered were, to ask whether there were any of his countrymen among us. There were two of them ; one, a lad of sixteen — a bright, curly-headed ras- cal — and, being a young Irishman, of course his name FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS. 163 was Pat. The other was an ugly and rather melancholy- looking scamp ; one M'Gee, whose prospects in life had been blasted by a premature transportation to Sydney. This was the report, at least, though it might have been scandal. In most of my shipmates were some redeeming quali- ties ; but about M'Gee there was nothing of the kind; and, forced to consort with him, I could not help regret- ting, a thousand times, that the gallows had been so tardy. As if impello d, again stujierwill, to send him into the worla^ Nature had done all she^oTikLto ensure his being taken for what he was. About the eyes there was no mistaking him; with a villanous cast in one, they seemed suspicious of each other. Glancing away from him at once, the bluff priest rested his gaze on the good-humoured face of Pat, whp<' with a pleasant roguishness, was " twigging " the>efibr- mous.hats (or " Hytee Belteezers," as land beavers are called by sailors), from under which,'like a couple of snails, peeped the two little Frenchmen. Pat and the priest were both from the same town in Meath ; and, when this was found out, there was no end to the questions of the latter. To him, Pat seemed a letter from home, and said a hundred times as much. After a long talk between these two, and a little broken English from the Frenchmen, our visitors took leave; but Father Murphy had hardly gone a dozen rods, when back he came, inquiring whether we were in want of anything. " Yes," cried one, " something to eat." Upon this, he promised to send us some fresh wheat bread, of his own baking ; a great luxury in Tahiti. We all felicitated Pat upon picking up such a friend, and told him his fortune was made. 164 omoo. The next morning, a French servant of the priest's made his appearance, with a small bundle of clothing for our young Hibernian ; and the promised bread for the party. Pat, being out at the knees and elbows, and, like the rest of us, not full inside, the present was acceptable all round. In the afternoon, Father Murphy himself came along ; and, in addition to his previous gifts, gave Pat a good deal of advice : said he was sorry to see him in limbo, and that he would have a talk with the consul about having him set free. We saw nothing more of him for two or three days ; at the end of which time he paid us another call, telling Pat, that Wilson was inexorable, having refused to set him at liberty, unless to go aboard the ship. This, the priest now besought him to do forthwith ; and to escape the punishment which, it seems, Wilson had been hint- ing at to his intercessor. Pat, however, was staunch against entreaties ; and, with all the ardour of a sopho- morean sailor, protested his intention to hold out to the last. With none of the meekness of a good little boy about him, the blunt youngster stormed away at such a rate, that it was hard to pacify him ; and the priest said no more. How it came to pass — whether from Murphy's speak- ing to the consul, or otherwise — we could not tell, but the next day Pat was sent for by Wilson, and being escorted to the village by our good old keeper, three days elasped before he returned. Bent upon reclaiming him, they had taken him on board the ship ; feasted him in the cabin ; and, finding that of no avail, down they thrust him into the hold, in double irons, and on bread and water. All would not do ; and so he was sent back to the Calabooza. Boy FRENCH PRIESTS PAY THEIR RESPECTS. 165 that he was, they must have counted upon his being more susceptible to discipline than the rest. The interest felt in Pat's welfare, by his benevolent countryman, was very serviceable to the rest of us; especially as we all turned Catholics, and went to mass every morning, much to Captain Bob's consternation. Upon finding it out, he threatened to keep us in the stocks, if we did not desist. He went no farther than this, though ; and so, every few days, we strolled down to the priest's residence, and had a mouthful to eat, and something generous to drink. In particular, Dr. Long Ghost and myself became huge favorites with Pat's friend ; and many a time he regaled us from a quaint- looking travelling-case for spirits, stowed away in one corner of his dwelling. It held four square flasks, which, somehow or other, always contained just enough to need emptying. In truth, the fine old Irishman was a rosy fellow in canonicals. His countenance and his soul were always in a glow. It may be ungenerous to reveal his failings, but he often talked thick, and some- times was perceptibly eccentric in his gait. I never drink French brandy, but I pledge Father Murphy. His health again ! And many jolly proselytes may he make in Polynesia ! 166 omoo. CHAPTER XXXVIII. LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. To make good the hint thrown ont by the consul upon the conclusion of the Farce of the Affidavits, we were again brought before him within the time speci- fied. It was the same thing over again : he got nothing out of us, and we were remanded ; our resolute behaviour annoying him prodigiously. What we observed, led us to form the idea, that on first learning the state of affairs on board the Julia, Wilson must have addressed his invalid friend, the captain, something in the following style : — " Guy, my poor fellow, don't worry yourself now about those rascally sailors of yours. I'll dress them out for you — just leave it all to me, and set your mind at rest." But handcuffs and stocks, big looks, threats, dark hints, and depositions, had all gone for nought. Conscious that, as matters now stood, nothing serious could grow out of what had happened ; and never dream- ing that our being sent home for trial had ever been really thought of, we thoroughly understood Wilson, and laughed at him accordingly. Since leaving the Julia, we had caught no glimpse of the mate ; but we often heard of him. It seemed that he remained on board, keeping house in the cabin for himself and Viner ; who, going to see him according to promise, was induced to remain a guest. These two cronies now had fine times ; tapping LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. 167 the captain's quarter-casks, playing cards on the tran- som, and giving balls of an evening to the ladies ashore. In short, they cut up so many queer capers, that the missionaries complained of them to the consul; and Jermin received a sharp reprimand. This so affected him, that he drank still more freely than before ; and one afternoon, when mellow as a grape, he took umbrage at a canoe full of natives, who, on being hailed from the deck to come aboard and show their papers, got frightened, and paddled for the shore. Lowering a boat instantly, he equipped Wymontoo and the Dane with a cutlass apiece, and seizing another him- self, off they started in pursuit, the ship's ensign flying in the boat's stern. The alarmed islanders, beaching their canoe, with loud cries fled through the village, the mate after them, slashing his naked weapon to right and left. A crowd soon collected ; and the " Karhowree toonee," or crazy stranger, was quickly taken before Wilson. Now, it so chanced, that in a native house hard by, the consul and Captain Guy were having a quiet game at cribbage by themselves, a decanter on the table stand- ing sentry. The obstreperous Jermin was brought in ; and finding the two thus pleasantly occupied, it had a soothing effect upon him ; and he insisted upon taking a hand at the cards, and a drink of the brandy. As the consul was nearly as tipsy as himself, and the captain dared not object for fear of giving offence, at it they went, — all three of them, — and made a night of it ; the mate's delinquencies being summarily passed over, and his captors sent away. An incident worth relating grew out of this freak. There wandered about Papeetee, at this time, a shrivelled little fright of an English woman, known 168 OMOO. among sailors as " Old Mother Tot." From New Zea- land to the Sandwich Islands, she had been all over the South Seas; keeping a rude hut of entertainment for mariners, and supplying them with rum and dice. Upon the missionary islands, of course, such conduct was severely punishable ; and at various places, Mother Tot's establishment had been shut up, and its proprietor made to quit in the first vessel that could be hired to land her elsewhere. But, with a perseverance invincible, wher- ever she went, she always started afresh ; and so became notorious everywhere. By some wicked spell of hers, a patient, one-eyed little cobbler followed her about, mending shoes for white men, doing the old woman's cooking, and bearing all her abuse without grumbling. Strange to relate, a battered Bible was seldom out of his sight; and when- ever he had leisure, and his mistress's back was turned, he was forever poring over it. This pious propensity used to enrage the old crone past belief ; and oftentimes she boxed his ears with the book, and tried to burn it. Mother Tot and her man Josy were, indeed, a curious pair. But to my story. A week or so after our arrival in the harbour, the old lady had once again been hunted down, and forced for the time to abandon her nefarious calling. This was brought about chiefly by Wilson, who, for some reason unknown, had contracted the most violent hatred for her; which, on her part, was more than recipro- cated. Well, passing in the evening, where the consul and his party were making merry, she peeped through the bamboos of the house ; and straightway resolved to gratify her spite. LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. 169 The night was very dark, and providing herself with a huge ship's lantern, which usually swung in her hut, she waited till they came forth. This happened about midnight ; Wilson making his appearance, supported by two natives, holding him up by the arms. These three went first ; and just as they got under a deep shade, a bright light was thrust within an inch of Wilson's nose. The old hag was kneeling before him, holding the lantern with uplifted hands. " Ha, ha ! my fine counsellor" she shrieked ; " ye perse- cute a lone old body like me for selling rum — do ye ? And here ye are, carried home drunk — ■ Hoot ! ye villain, I scorn ye ! " And she spat upon him. Terrified at the apparition, the poor natives — arrant believers in ghosts — dropped the trembling consul, and fled in all directions. After giving full vent to her rage, Mother Tot hobbled away, and left the three revel- lers to stagger home the best way they could. The day following our last interview with Wilson, we learned that Captain Guy had gone on board his vessel, for the purpose of shipping a new crew. There was a round bounty offered ; and a heavy bag of Spanish dol- lars, with the Julia's articles ready for signing, was laid on the capstan-head. Now there was no lack of idle sailors ashore, mostly " Beach-combers," who had formed themselves into an organized gang, headed by one Mack, a Scotchman, whom they styled the Commodore. By the laws of the fraternity, no member was allowed to ship on board a vessel, unless granted permission by the rest. In this way the gang controlled the port, all discharged seamen being forced to join them. To Mack and his men our story was well known ; in- deed, they had several times called to see us; and of 170 OMOO. course, as sailors and congenial spirits, they were hard against Captain Guy. Deeming the matter important, they came in a body to the Calabooza, and wished to know whether, all things considered, we thought it best for any of them to join the Julia. Anxious to pack the ship off as soon as possible, we answered, by all means. Some went so far as to laud the Julia to the skies, as the best and fastest of ships. Jermin, too, as a good fellow and a sailor every inch, came in for his share of praise ; and as for the captain — quiet man, he would never trouble any one. In short, every inducement we could think of was presented; and Flash Jack ended by assuring the beach-combers solemnly, that now we were all well and hearty, nothing but a regard to principle prevented us from returning on board ourselves. The result was, that a new crew was finally obtained, together with a steady New Englander for second mate, and three good whalemen for harpooners. In part, what was wanting for the ship's larder was also supplied ; and as far as could be done in a place like Tahiti, the damages the vessel had sustained were repaired. As for the Mowree, the authorities refusing to let him be put ashore, he was carried to sea in irons, down in the hold. What eventually became of him, we never heard. Ropey, poor, poor Ropey, who a few days previous had fallen sick, was left ashore at the sailor hospital at Townor, a small place upon the beach between Papeetee and Matavai. Here, some time after, he breathed his last. No one knew his complaint : he must have died of hard times. Several of us saw him interred in the sand, and I planted a rude post to mark his resting- place. LITTLE JULE SAILS WITHOUT US. 171 The cooper and the rest who had remained aboard from the first, of course, composed part of the Julia's new crew. To account for the conduct, all along, of the consul and captain, in trying so hard to alter our purpose with respect to the ship, the following statement is all that is requisite. Beside an advance of from fifteen to twenty- five dollars demanded by every sailor shipping at Tahiti, an additional sum for each man so shipped has to be paid into the hands of the government, as a charge of the port. Beside this, the men — with here and there an exception — will only ship for one cruise, thus becoming entitled to a discharge before the vessel reaches home ; which, in time, creates the necessity of obtaining other men at a similar cost. Now, the Julia's exchequer was at a low-water mark, or, rather, it was quite empty : and to meet these expenses, a good part of what little oil there was aboard had to be sold for a song to a merchant of Papeetee. It was Sunday in Tahiti, and a glorious morning, when Captain Bob, waddling into the Calabooza, startled us by announcing, "Ah — my boy — shippy you, harree — maky sail ! " In other words, the Julia was off. The beach was quite near, and in this quarter alto- gether uninhabited ; so down we ran, and, at a cable's length, saw little Jule gliding past — top-gallant-sails hoisting, and a boy aloft with one leg thrown over the yard, loosing the fore-royal. The decks were all life and commotion ; the sailors on the forecastle singing, M Ho, cheerly men ! " as they catted the anchor ; and the gallant Jermin, bareheaded as his wont, standing up on the bowsprit, and issuing his orders. By the man at the helm, stood Captain Guy, very quiet and gentle- 172 omoo. manly, and smoking a cigar. Soon the ship drew neai the reef, and altering her course, glided out through the break, and went on her way. Thus disappeared little Jule, about three weeks after entering the harbour ; and nothing more have I ever heard of her. CHAPTER XXXIX. JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN. — FRIENDSHIPS IN POLYNESIA. The ship out of the way, we were quite anxious to know what was going to be done with us. On this head, Captain Bob could tell us nothing ; no further, at least, than that he still considered himself respon- sible for our safe-keeping. However, he never put us to bed any more ; and we had everything our own way. The day after the Julia left, the old man came up to us in great tribulation, saying that the bucket of bread was no longer forthcoming, and that Wilson had refused to send anything in its place. One and all, we took this for a hint to disperse quietly, and go about our business. Nevertheless, we were not to be shaken off so easily ; and taking a malicious pleasure in annoying our old enemy, we resolved, for the present, to stay where we were. For the part he had been acting, we learned that the consul was the laughing-stock of all the foreigners ashore, who frequently twitted him upon his hopeful protege's of the Calabooza Beretanee. As we were wholly without resources, so long as we remained on the island no better place than Captain JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN. 173 Bob's could be selected for an abiding-place. Beside, we heartily loved the old gentleman, and could not think of leaving him ; so, telling him to be quite at ease on the score of our clothing and food, we resolved, by- extending and systematising our foraging operations, to provide for ourselves. We were greatly assisted by a parting legacy of Jer- min's. To him we were indebted for having all our chests sent ashore, and everything left therein. They were placed in the custody of a petty chief living near by, who was instructed by the consul not to allow them to be taken away ; but we might call and make our toilets whenever we pleased. We went to see Mahinee, the old chief ; Captain Bob going along, and stoutly insisting upon having the chattels delivered up. At last this was done ; and in solemn procession the chests were borne by the natives to the Calabooza. Here, we disposed them about quite tastefully, and made such a figure, that in the eyes of old Bob and his friends, the Calabooza Beretanee was by far the most sumptuously furnished saloon in Tahiti. Indeed, so long as it remained thus furnished, the native courts of the district were held there ; the judge, Mahinee, and his associates, sitting upon one of the chests, and the culprits and spectators thrown at full length upon the ground, both inside of the building, and under the shade of the trees without ; while lean- ing over the stocks as from a gallery, the worshipful crew of the Julia looked on, and canvassed the pro- ceedings. I should have mentioned before, that previous to the vessel's departure the men had bartered away all the clothing they could possibly spare ; but now, it was re- solved to be more provident. 174 omoo. The contents of the chests were of the most miscella- neous description : — sewing-utensils, marling-spikes, strips of calico, bits of rope, jack-knives ; nearly every- thing, in short, that a seaman could think of. But of wearing apparel, there was little but old frocks, rem- nants of jackets, and legs of trousers, with now and then the foot of a stocking. These, however, were far from being valueless ; for, among the poorer Tahitians, everything European is highly esteemed. They come from u Beretanee, Fenooa Pararee " (Britain, Land of Wonders), and that is enough. The chests themselves were deemed exceedingly pre- cious, especially those with unfractured locks, which would absolutely click, and enable the owner to walk off with the key. Scars, however, and bruises, were considered great blemishes. One old fellow, smitten with the doctor's large mahogany chest (a well filled one, by the by), and finding infinite satisfaction in merely sitting thereon, was detected in the act of applying a healing ointment to a shocking scratch which impaired the beauty of the lid. There is no telling the love of a Tahitian for a sailor's trunk. So ornamental is it held as an article of furni- ture in his hut, that the women are incessantly torment- ing their husbands to bestir themselves and make them a present of one. When obtained, no pier-table just placed in a drawing-room is regarded with half the delight. For these reasons, then, our coming into pos- session of our estate at this time, was an important event. The islanders are much like the rest of the world ; and the news of our good fortune brought us troops of " tayos " or friends, eager to form an alliance after the national custom, and do our slightest bidding. JERMIN SERVES US A GOOD TURN. 175 The really curious way in which all the Polynesians are in the habit of making bosom friends at the shortest possible notice, is deserving of remark. Although, among a people like the Tahitians, vitiated as they are by sophisticating influences, this custom has in most cases degenerated into a mere mercenary relation, it nevertheless had its origin in a fine, and in some in- stances, heroic sentiment, formerly entertained by their fathers. In the annals of the island are examples of extrava- gant friendships, unsurpassed by the story of Damon and Pythias : in truth, much more wonderful ; for, not- withstanding the devotion — even of life in some cases — to which they led, they were frequently entertained at first sight for some stranger from another island. Filled with love and admiration for the first whites that came among them, the Polynesians could not testify the warmth of their emotions more strongly, than by instantaneously making their abrupt proffer of friend- ship. Hence, in old voyages we read of chiefs coming off from the shore in their canoes, and going through with strange antics, expressive of this desire. In the same way, their inferiors accosted the seamen ; and thus the practice has continued in some islands down to the present day. There is a small place, not many days' sail from Tahiti, and seldom visited by shipping, where the vessel touched to which I then happened to belong. Of course, among the simple-hearted natives, we had a friend all round. Mine was Poky, a handsome youth, who never could do enough for me. Every morning at sunrise, his canoe came alongside loaded with fruits of all kinds; upon being emptied, it was secured by a line to the bowsprit, under which it lay all day 176 omoo. long, ready at any time to carry its owner ashore on an errand. Seeing him so indefatigable, I told Poky one day, that I was a virtuoso in shells and curiosities of all kinds. That was enough; away he paddled for the head of the bay, and I never saw him again for twenty- four hours. The next morning, his canoe came gliding slowly along the shore, with the full-leaved bough of a tree for a sail. For the purpose of keeping the things dry, he had also built a sort of platform just behind the prow, railed in with green wicker-work ; and here was a heap of yellow bananas and cowree shells ; young cocoa nuts and antlers of red coral ; two or three pieces of carved wood ; a little pocket-idol, black as jet, and rolls of printed tappa. We were given a holiday ; and upon going ashore, Poky, of course, was my companion and guide. For this, no mortal could be better qualified ; his native country was not large, and he knew every inch of it. Gallanting me about, every one was stopped and cere- moniously introduced to Poky's " tayo karhowree nuee," or his particular white friend. He showed me all the lions, but more than all he took me to see a charming lioness — a young damsel — the daughter of a chief — the reputation of whose charms had spread to the neighboring islands, and even brought suitors therefrom. Among these was Tooboi, the heir of Tamatoy, King of Raiatea, one of the Society Isles. The girl was certainly fair to look upon. Many heavens were in her sunny eyes, and the outline of that arm of hers, peeping forth from a capricious tappa robe, was the very curve of beauty. Though there was no end to Poky's attentions, not a syllable did he ever breathe of reward ; but sometimes WE TAKE UNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS. 177 he looked very knowing. At last the day came for sailing, and with it, also, his canoe, loaded down to the gunwale with a sea stock of fruits. Giving him all I could spare from my chest, I went on deck to take my place at the windlass, for the anchor was weighing. Poky followed, and heaved with me at the same hand- spike. The anchor was soon up, and away we went out of the bay with more than twenty shallops towing astern. At last they left us ; but as long as I could see him at all, there was Poky standing alone and motionless in the bow of his canoe. CHAPTER XL. WE TAKE UNTO OURSELVES FRIENDS. The arrrival of the chests made my friend, the doc- tor, by far the wealthiest man of the party. So much the better for me, seeing that I had little or nothing myself, though from our intimacy, the natives courted my favor almost as much as his. Among others, Kooloo was a candidate for my friend- ship ; and being a comely youth, quite a buck in his way, I accepted his overtures. By this, I escaped the impor- tunities of the rest ; for be it known, that, though little inclined to jealousy in love matters, the Tahitian will hear of no rivals in his friendship. Kooloo, running over his qualifications as a friend, first of all informed me that he was a " Mickonaree," thus declaring his communion with the church. 178 omoo. The way this " tayo " of mine expressed his regard was by assuring me over and over again that the love he bore me was "nuee, nuee, nuee," or infinitesimally extensive. Ail over these seas the word " nuee " is sig- nificant of quantity. Its repetition is like placing ciphers at the right hand of a numeral ; the more places you carry it out to, the greater the sum. Judge, then, of Kooloo's esteem. Nor is the allusion to the ciphers at all inappropriate, seeing that, in themselves, Kooloo's professions turned out to be worthless. He was, alas ! as sounding brass and a tinkling cymbal ; one of those who make no music unless the clapper be silver. In the coarse of a few days, the sailors, like the doc- tor and myself, were cajoled out of everything, and our "tayos," all round, began to cool off quite sensibly. So remiss did they become in their attentions, that we could no longer rely upon their bringing us the daily supply of food, which all of them had faithfully prom- ised. As for Kooloo, after sponging me well, he one morn- ing played the part of a retrograde lover, informing me that his affections had undergone a change ; he had fallen in love at first sight with a smart sailor, who had just stepped ashore quite flush from a lucky whaling- cruise. It was a touching interview, and with it our connec- tion dissolved. But the sadness which ensued would soon have been dissipated, had not my sensibilities been wounded by his indelicately sporting some of my gifts very soon after this transfer of his affections. Hardly a day passed, that I did not meet him on the Broom Road, airing himself in a Regatta shirt, which I had given him in happier hours. He went by with such an easy saunter too, looking WE TAKE UNTO OUR SELVES FRIENDS. 179 me pleasantly in the eye, and merely exchanging the cold salute of the road : — " Yar onor, boyoee," a mere side- walk how d'ye do. After several experiences like this, I began to entertain a sort of respect for Kooloo, as quite a man of the world. In good sooth, he turned out to be one ; in one week's time giving me the cut direct, and lounging by without evsn nodding. He must have taken me for part of the landscape. Before the chests were quite empty, we had a grand washing in the stream of our best raiment, for the pur- pose of looking tidy, and visiting the European chapel in the village. Every Sunday morning it is open for divine service, some member of the mission officiating. This was the first time we ever entered Papeetee un- attended by an escort. In the chapel there were about forty people present, including the officers of several ships in harbour. It was an energetic discourse, and the pulpit-cushion was well pounded. Occupying a high seat in the synagogue, and stiff as a flag-staff, was our beloved guardian, Wilson. I shall never forget his look of wonder when his interest- ing wards filed in at the doorway, and took up a seat directly facing him. Service over, we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of him ; but, sorely annoyed at the sight of us, he reconnoitred from the window, and never came forth until we had started for home. 180 OMOO. CHAPTER XLI. WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON THE SHIPPING. ScAPvCELY a week went by after the Julia's sailing, when, with the proverbial restlessness of sailors, some of the men began to grow weary of the Calabooza Bere- tanee, and resolved to go boldly among the vessels in the bay, and offer to ship. The thing was tried; but though strongly recommended by the commodore of the beach-combers, in the end they were invariably told by the captains to whom they ap- plied, that they bore an equivocal character ashore, and would not answer. So often were they repulsed, that we pretty nearly gave up all thoughts of leaving the island in this way ; and growing domestic again, settled down quietly at Captain Bob's. It was about this time that the whaling ships, which have their regular seasons for cruising, began to arrive at Papeetee ; and of course their crews frequently visited us. This is customary all over the Pacific. No sailor steps ashore, but he straightway goes to the " Calabooza," where he is almost sure to find some poor fellow or other in confinement for desertion, or alleged mutiny, or some- thing of that sort. Sympathy is proffered, and, if need be, tobacco. The latter, however, is most in request ; as a solace to the captive, it is invaluable. Having fairly carried the day against both consul and captain, we were objects of even more than ordinary interest to these philanthropists ; and they always cor- dially applauded our conduct. Besides, they invariably brought along something in the way of refreshments ; WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS. 181 occasionally smuggling in a little Pisco. Upon one occasion, when there was quite a number present, a cala- bash was passed round, and a pecuniary collection taken up for our benefit. One day a new comer proposed, that two or three of us should pay him a sly nocturnal visit aboard his ship ; engaging to send us away well freighted with provisions. This was not a bad idea ; nor were we at all backward in acting upon it. Night after night every vessel in the harbour was visited in rotation, the foragers borrowing Captain Bob's canoe for the purpose. As we all took turns at this, two by two, in due course it came to Long Ghost and myself, for the sailors invariably linked us together. In such an enterprise, I somewhat distrusted the doctor, for he was no sailor, and very tall ; and a canoe is the most ticklish of navigable things. However, it could not be helped ; and so we went. But a word about the canoes, before we go any fur- ther. Among the Society Islands, the art of building them, like all native accomplishments, has greatly deteriorated ; and they are now the most inelegant, as well as the most insecure, of any in the South Seas. In Cook's time, according to his account, there was at Tahiti a royal fleet of seventeen hundred and twenty large war-canoes, handsomely carved, and otherwise adorned. At present, those used are quite small; nothing more than logs hollowed out, sharpened at one end, and then launched into the water. To obviate a certain rolling propensity, the Tahitians, like all Polynesians, attach to them what sailors call an " outrigger." It consists of a pole floating alongside, parallel to the canoe, and connected with it by a couple of cross sticks, a yard or more in length. Thus equipped, the canoe cannot be overturned, unless you overcome 182 OMOO. the buoyancy of the pole, or lift it entirely out of the water. Now, Captain Bob's " gig " was exceedingly small ; so small, and of such a grotesque shape, that the sailors christened it the Pill Box ; and by this appellation it always went. In fact, it was a sort of "sulky," meant for a solitary paddler, but, on an emergency, capable of floating two or three. The outrigger was a mere switch, alternately rising in air, and then depressed in the water. Assuming the command of the expedition, upon the strength of my being a sailor, I packed the Long Doctor with a paddle in the bow, and then shoving off, leaped into the stern ; thus leaving him to do all the work, and reserving to myself the dignified sinecure of steering. All would have gone well, were it not that my paddler made such clumsy work, that the water spattered, and showered down upon us without ceasing. Continuing to ply his tool, however, quite energetically, I thought he would improve after a while, and so let him alone. But by and by, getting wet through with this little storm we were raising, and seeing no signs of its clearing off, I conjured him, in Mercy's name to stop short, and let me wring myself out. Upon this, he suddenly turned round, when the canoe gave a roll, the outrigger flew overhead, and the next moment came rap on the doctor's skull, and we were both in the water. Fortunately, we were just over a ledge of coral, not half a fathom under the surface. Depressing one end of the filled canoe, and letting go of it quickly, it bounced up, and discharged great part of its contents ; so that we easily bailed out the remainder, and again embarked. This time, my comrade coiled himself away in a very small space ; and enjoining upon him WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS. 183 not to draw a single unnecessary breath, I proceeded to urge the canoe along by myself. I was astonished at his docility, never speaking a word, and stirring neither hand nor foot ; but the secret was, he was unable to swim, and in case we met with a second mishap, there were no more ledges beneath to stand upon. " Drown- ing's but a shabby way of going out of the world," he exclaimed, upon my rallying him ; " and I'm not going to be guilty of it." At last, the ship was at hand, and we approached with much caution, wishing to avoid being hailed by any one from the quarter-deck. Dropping silently under her bows, we heard a low whistle — the signal agreed upon — and presently a goodly sized bag was lowered over to us. We cut the line, and then paddled away as fast as we could, and made the best of our way home. Here we found the rest waiting impatiently. The bag turned out to be well filled with sweet pota- toes boiled, cubes of salt beef and pork, and a famous sailors' pudding, what they call " duff," made of flour and water, and of about the consistence of an underdone brick. With these delicacies, and keen appetites, we went out into the moonlight, and had a nocturnal pic- nic. 184 omoo. CHAPTER XLII. MOTOO-OTOO. A TAHITI AN CASUIST. The Pill-Box was sometimes employed for other pur- poses than that described in the last chapter. We some- times went a-pleasuring in it. Right in the middle of Papeetee harbour is a bright green island, one circular grove of waving palms, and scarcely a hundred yards across. It is of coral forma- tion ; and all round, for many rods out, the bay is so shallow, that you might wade anywhere. Down in these waters, as transparent as air, you see coral plants of every hue and shape imaginable : — antlers, tufts of azure, waving reeds like stalks of grain, and pale green buds and mosses. In some places, you look through prickly branches down to a snow-white floor of sand, sprouting with flinty bulbs ; and crawling among these are strange shapes : — some bristling with spikes, others clad in shining coats of mail, and here and there round forms all spangled with eyes. The island is called Motoo-Otoo ; and around Motoo- Otoo have I often paddled of a white moonlight night, pausing now and then to admire the marine gardens beneath. The place is the private property of the queen, who has a residence there — a melancholy-looking range of bamboo houses — neglected and falling to decay among the trees. Commanding the harbour as it does, her majesty has done all she could to make a fortress of the island. The With the stock of his gun, the old warder fetched a tremen- dous blow." MOTOO-OTOO. A TAHITI AN CASUIST. 185 margin has been raised and levelled, and built up with a low parapet of hewn blocks of coral. Behind the parapet, are ranged at wide intervals a number of rusty- old cannon, of all fashions and calibres. They are mounted upon lame, decrepit-looking carriages, ready to sink under the useless burden of bearing them up. Indeed, two or three have given up the ghost altogether, and the pieces they sustained lie half-buried among their bleaching bones. Several of the cannon are spiked ; probably with a view of making them more formidable ; as they certainly must be to any one undertaking to fire them off. Presented to Pomaree at various times by captains of British armed ships, these poor old " dogs of war," thus toothless and turned out to die, formerly bayed in full pack, as the battle hounds of Old England. There was something about Motoo-Otoo that struck my fancy ; and I registered a vow to plant my foot upon its soil, notwithstanding an old bareheaded sentry menaced me in the moonlight with an unsightly mus- ket. As my canoe drew scarcely three inches of water, I could paddle close up to the parapet without ground- ing ; but every time I came near, the old man ran towards me, pushing his piece forward, but never clap- ping it to his shoulder. Thinking he only meant to frighten me, I at last dashed the canoe right up to the wall, purposing a leap. It was the rashest act of my life ; for never did cocoa-nut come nearer getting demol- ished than mine did then. With the stock of his gun, the old warder fetched a tremendous blow, which I managed to dodge ; and then, falling back, succeeded in paddling out of harm's reach. He must have been dumb ; for never a word did he utter ; but, grinning from ear to ear, and with his white 186 omoo. cotton robe streaming in the moonlight, he looked more like the spook of the island than any thing mortal. I tried to effect my object by attacking him in the rear — but he was all front ; running about the place as I paddled, and presenting his confounded musket wher- ever I went. At last I was obliged to retreat ; and to this day my vow remains unfulfilled. It was a few days after my repulse from before the walls of Motoo-Otoo, that I heard a curious case of casuistry argued between one of the most clever and intelligent natives I ever saw in Tahiti, a man by the name of Arheetoo, and our learned Theban of a doctor. It was this : — whether it was right and lawful for any one being a native to keep the European Sabbath, in preference to the day set apart as such by the missionaries, and so considered by the islanders in general. It must be known that the missionaries of the good ship Duff, who more than half a century ago established the Tahitian reckoning, came hither by the way of the Cape of Good Hope ; and, by thus sailing to the east- ward, lost one precious day of their lives all round, getting about that much in advance of Greenwich time. For this reason, vessels coming round Cape Horn — as they most all do nowadays — find it Sunday in Tahiti, when, according to their own view of the matter, it ought to be Saturday, But as it won't do to alter the log, the sailors keep their Sabbath, and the islanders theirs. This confusion perplexes the poor natives mightily; and it is to no purpose that you endeavour to explain so incomprehensible a phenomenon. I once saw a worthy old missionary essay to shed some light on the subject 5 and though I understood but few of the words employed, MOTOO-OTOO. A TAHITIAN CASUIST. 187 I could easily get at the meaning of his illustrations. They were something like the following: — " Here," says he, " you see this circle " (describing a large one on the ground with a stick) : " very good ; now you see this spot here " (marking a point in the perimeter) : " well ; this is Beretanee " (England), " and I'm going to sail round to Tahiti. Here I go, then " (following the circle round), " and there goes the sun " (snatching up another sfcick, and commissioning a ban- dy-legged native to travel round with it in a contrary direction). " Now then, we are both off, and both going away from each other ; and here you see I have arrived at Tahiti " (making a sudden stop) ; " and look now, where Bandy Legs is ! " But the crowd strenuously maintained, that Bandy Legs ought to be somewhere above them in the atmos- phere ; for it was a traditionary fact, that the people from the Duff came ashore when the sun was high over head. And here the old gentleman, being a very good sort of a man, doubtless, but no astronomer, was obliged to give up. Arheetoo, the casuist alluded to, though a member of the church, and extremely conscientious about what Sabbath he kept, was more liberal in other matters. Learning that I was something of a " mickonaree " (in this sense, a man able to read, and cunning in the use of the pen), he desired the slight favour of my forging for him a set of papers ; for which, he said, he would be much obliged, and give me a good dinner of roast pig and Indian turnip in the bargain. Now, Arheetoo was one of those who board the ship- ping for their washing; and the competition being very great (the proudest chiefs not disdaining to solicit cus- tom in person, though the work is done by their depend- 188 OMOO. ents), he had decided upon a course suggested by a knowing sailor, a friend of his. He wished to have manufactured a set of certificates, purporting to come from certain man-of-war and merchant captains, known to have visited the island; recommending him as one of the best getters up of fine linen in all Polynesia. At this time, Arheetoo had known me but two hours ; and, as he made the proposition very coolly, I thought it rather presumptuous, and told him so. But as it was quite impossible to convey a hint, that there was a slight impropriety in the thing, I did not resent the insult, but simply declined. CHAPTER XLIII. ONE IS JUDGED BY THE COMPANY HE KEEPS. Although, from its novelty, life at Captain Bob's was pleasant enough for the time, there were some few annoyances connected with it, any thing but agreeable to a "soul of sensibility." Prejudiced against us by the malevolent representa- tions of the consul and others, many worthy foreigners ashore regarded us as a set of lawless vagabonds ; though, truth to speak, better behaved sailors never stepped on the island, nor any who gave less trouble to the. natives. But, for all this, whenever we met a respectably dressed European, ten to one he shunned us, by going over to the other side of the road. This was very unpleasant, at least to myself ; though, certes, it did not prey upon the minds of the others. To give an instance. ONE IS JUDGED BY THE COMPANY HE KEEPS. 189 Of a fine evening in Tahiti — but they are all fine evenings there — you may see a bevy of silk bonnets and parasols passing along the Broom Road: perhaps a band of pale, little white urchins — sickly exotics — and, oft- ener still, sedate, elderly gentlemen, with canes; at whose appearance the natives, here and there, slink into their huts. These are the missionaries, their wives, and children, taking a family airing. Sometimes, by the by, they take horse, and ride down to Point Venus and back ; a distance of several miles. At this place is set- tled the only survivor of the first missionaries that landed — an old, white-headed, saint-like man, by the name of Wilson, the father of our friend the consul. The little parties on foot were frequently encountered ; and, recalling, as they did, so many pleasant recollec- tions of home and the ladies, I really longed for a dress- coat and beaver, that I might step up and pay my respects. But, situated as I was, this was out of the question. On one occasion, however, I received a kind inquisitive glance from a matron in gingham. Sweet lady! I have not forgotten her: her gown was a plaid. But a glance, like hers, was not always bestowed. One evening, passing the verandah of a missionary's dwelling, the dame, his wife, and a pretty blonde young girl, with ringlets, were sitting there, enjoying the sea- breeze, then coming in, all cool and refreshing, from the spray of the reef. As I approached, the old lady peered hard at me ; and her very cap seemed to convey a prim rebuke. The blue, English eyes, by her side, were also bent on me. But, oh Heavens Iwhat a glance to receive from such a beautiful creature! As for the mob cap, not a fig did I care for it ; but, to be taken for any thing but a cavalier, by the ringletted one, was absolutely unendurable. 190 OMOO. I resolved on a courteous salute, to show my good breeding, if nothing more. But happening to wear a sort of turban — hereafter to be particularly alluded to — there was no taking it off and putting it on again with any thing like dignity. At any rate, then, here goes a bow. But another difficulty presented itself: my loose frock was so voluminous, that I doubted whether any spinal curvature would be perceptible. "Good-evening, ladies," exclaimed I, at last, advan- cing winningly; "a delightful air from the sea, ladies." Hysterics and hartshorn! who would have thought it? The young lady screamed, and the old one came near fainting. As for myself, I retreated, in double-quick time ; and scarcely drew breath, until safely housed in the Calabooza. CHAPTER XLIV. CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR. — THE CHURCH OF THE COCOA-NUTS. On Sundays I always attended the principal native church on the outskirts of the village of Papeetee, and not far from Calabooza Beretanee. It was esteemed the best specimen of architecture in Tahiti. Of late, they have built their places of worship with more reference to durability than formerly. At one time there were no less than thirty-six on the island — mere barns, tied together with thongs, which went to destruction in a very few years. One, built many years ago in this style, was a most CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAE. 191 remarkable structure. It was erected by Pomaree II., who, on this occasion, showed all the zeal of a royal proselyte. The building was over seven hundred feet in length, and of a proportionate width ; the vast ridge- pole was, at intervals, supported by a row of thirty-six cylindrical trunks of the bread-fruit tree ; and, all around, the wall-plates rested on shafts of the palm. The roof — steeply inclining to within a man's height of the ground — was thatched with leaves, and the sides of the edifice were open. Thus spacious was the Royal Mission Chapel of Papoar. At its dedication, three distinct sermons were, from different pulpits, preached to an immense concourse gathered from all parts of the island. As the chapel was built by the king's command, nearly as great a multitude was employed in its construction as swarmed over the scaffolding of the great temple of the Jews. Much less time, however, was expended. In less than three weeks from planting the first post, the last tier of palmetto-leaves drooped from the eaves, and the work was done. Apportioned to the several chiefs and their depend- ents, the labour, though immense, was greatly facilitated by every one's bringing his post, or his rafter, or his pole strung with thatching, ready for instant use. The materials thus prepared being afterward secured to- gether by thongs, there was literally " neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the house while it was building." But the most singular circumstance connected with this South Sea cathedral remains to be related. As well for the beauty as the advantages of such a site, the islanders love to dwell near the mountain streams ; and so, a considerable brook, after descending from the hills 192 ouoo. and watering the valley, was bridged over in three places, and swept clean through the chapel. Flowing waters ! what an acompaniment to the songs of the sanctuary ; mingling with them the praises and thanksgivings of the green solitudes inland. But the chapel of the Polynesian Solomon has long since been deserted. Its thousand rafters of hibiscus have decayed, and fallen to the ground ; and now the stream murmurs over them in its bed. The present metropolitan church of Tahiti is very unlike the one just described. It is of moderate dimen- sions, boarded over, and painted white. It is furnished, also, with blinds, but no sashes ; indeed, were it not for the rustic thatch, it would remind one of a plain chapel at home. The wood-work was all done by foreign carpenters, of whom there are always several about Papeetee. Within, its aspect is unique, and cannot fail to inter- est a stranger. The rafters overhead are bound round with fine matting of variegated dyes ; and all along the ridge-pole, these strappings hang pendent, in alternate bunches of tassels and deep fringes of stained grass. The floor is composed of rude planks. Regular aisles run between ranges of native settees, bottomed with crossed braids of the cocoa-nut fibre, and furnished with backs. But the pulpit, made of a dark, lustrous wood, and standing at one end, is by far the most striking object. It is preposterously lofty : indeed, a capital bird's-eye view of the congregation ought to be had from its summit. Nor does the church lack a gallery, which runs round on three sides, and is supported by columns of the cocoa- nut tree. CATHEDRAL OF PAPOAR. 193 Its facings are here and there daubed over with a tawdry bine ; and in other places (without the slightest regard to uniformity), patches of the same colour may be seen. In their ardour to decorate the sanctuary, the converts must have borrowed each a brush full of paint, and zealously daubed away at the first surface that offered. As hinted, the general impression is extremely curious. Little light being admitted, and everything being of a dark colour, there is an indefinable Indian aspect of duskiness throughout. A strange, woody smell, also — more or less pervading every considerable edifice in Polynesia — is at once perceptible. It suggests the idea of worm-eaten idols packed away in some old lumber-room at hand. For the most part, the congregation attending this church is composed of the better and wealthier orders — the chiefs and their retainers ; in short, the rank and fashion of the island. This class is infinitely superior in personal beauty and general healthfulness to the " marenhoar," or common people ; the latter having been more exposed to the worst and most debasing evils of foreign intercourse. On Sundays, the former are invariably arrayed in their finery ; and thus appear to the best advantage. Nor are they driven to the chapel, as some of their inferiors are to other places of worship ; on the contrary, capable of maintaining a handsome exterior, and possessing greater intelligence, they go voluntarily. In respect of the woodland colonnade supporting its galleries, I called this chapel the Church of the Cocoa- nuts. It was the first place for Christian worship in Poly- nesia that I had seen ; and the impression upon entering 194 omoo. during service was all the stronger. Majestic-looking chiefs, whose fathers had hurled the battle-club, and old men who had seen sacrifices smoking upon the altars of Oro, were there. And hark ! hanging from the bough of a bread-fruit tree without, a bell is being struck with a bar of iron by a native lad. Id the same spot, the blast of the war-conch had often resounded. But to the proceedings within. The place is well filled. Everywhere meet the eye the gay calico draperies worn on great occasions by the higher classes, and forming a strange contrast of pat- terns and colours. In some instances, these are so fashioned as to resemble as much as possible European garments. This is in excessively bad taste. Coats and pantaloons, too, are here and there seen ; but they look awkwardly enough, and take away the general effect. But it is the array of countenances that most strikes you. Each is suffused with the peculiar animation of the Polynesians, when thus collected in large numbers. Every robe is rustling, every limb in motion, and an incessant buzzing going on throughout the assembly. The tumult is so great, that the voice of the placid old missionary, who now rises, is almost inaudible. Some degree of silence is at length obtained through the exertions of half-a-dozen strapping fellows, in white shirts and no pantaloons. Running in among the settees, they are at great pains to inculcate the impro- priety of making a noise, by creating a most unneces- sary racket themselves. This part of the service was quite comical. There is a most interesting Sabbath school connected with the church ; and the scholars, a vivacious, mis- chievous set, were in one part of the gallery. I was amused by a party in a corner. The teacher sat at one A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 195 end of the bench, with a meek little fellow by his side. When the others were disorderly, this young martyr received a rap ; intended, probably, as a sample of what the rest might expect, if they didn't mend. Standing in the body of the church, and leaning against a pillar, was an old man, in appearance very different from others of his countrymen. He wore nothing but a coarse, scant mantle, of faded tappa ; and from his staring, bewildered manner, I set him down as an aged bumpkin from the interior, unaccustomed to the strange sights and sounds of the metropolis. This old worthy was sharply reprimanded for standing up, and thus intercepting the view of those behind ; but not comprehending exactly what was said to him, one of the white liveried gentry made no ceremony of grasping him by the shoulders, and fairly crushing him down into a seat. During all this, the old missionary in the pulpit — as well as his associates beneath, never ventured to inter- fere — leaving everything to native management. With South Sea islanders, assembled in any numbers, there is no other way of getting along. CHAPTER XLV. A MISSIONARY'S SERMON ; WITH SOME REFLECTIONS. Some degree of order at length restored, the service was continued, by singing. The choir was composed of twelve or fifteen ladies of the mission, occupying a long bench to the left of the pulpit. Almost the entire con- gregation joined in. 196 omoo. The first air fairly startled me ; it was the brave tune of Old Hundred, adapted to a Tahitian psalm. After the graceless scenes I had recently passed through, this circumstance, with all its accessories, moved me forcibly. Many voices around were of great sweetness and com- pass. The singers, also, seemed to enjoy themselves mightily ; some of them pausing, now and then, and looking round, as if to realise the scene more fully. In truth, they sang right joyously, despite the solemnity of the tune. The Tahitians have much natural talent for singing ; and, on all occasions, are exceedingly fond of it. I have often heard a stave or two of psalmody, hummed over by rakish young fellows, like a snatch from an opera. With respect to singing, as in most other matters, the Tahitians widely differ from the people of the Sandwich Islands ; where the parochial flocks may be said rather to bleat than sing. The psalm concluded, a prayer followed. Very con- siderately, the good old missionary made it short ; for the congregation became fidgety and inattentive as soon as it commenced. A chapter of the Tahitian Bible was now read ; a text selected, and the sermon began. It was listened to with more attention than I had anticipated. Having been informed, from various sources, that the discourses of the missionaries, being calculated to engage the attention of their simple auditors, were, naturally enough, of a rather amusing description to strangers ; in short, that they had much to say about steamboats, lord mayors' coaches, and the way fires are put out in Lon- don, I had taken care to provide myself with a good in- terpreter, in the person of an intelligent Hawaiian sailor, whose acquaintance I had made. A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 197 "Now, Jack," said I, before entering, "hear every word, and tell me what you can, as the missionary goes on." Jack's was not, perhaps, a critical version of the dis- course ; and, at the time, I took no notes of what he said. Nevertheless, I will here venture to give what I remember of it ; and, as far as possible, in Jack's phrase- ology, so as to lose nothing by a double translation. " Good friends, I glad to see you ; and I very well like to have some talk with you to-day. Good friends, very bad times in Tahiti ; it make me weep. Pomaree is gone — the island no more yours, but the Wee-Wee's (French). Wicked priests here, too ; and wicked idols in woman's clothes, and brass chains. 1 " Good friends, no you speak, or look at them — but I know you won't — they belong to a set of robbers — the wicked Wee-Wees. Soon these bad men be made to go very quick. Beretanee ships of thunder come, and away they go. But no more 'bout this now. I speak more by by. " Good friends, many whale-ships here now ; and many bad men come in 'em. No good sailors living — that you know very well. They come here, 'cause so bad they no keep 'em home. " My good little girls, no run after sailors — no go where they go ; they harm you. Where they come from no good people talk to 'em — just like dogs. Here, they talk to Pomaree, and drink arva with great Poofai. 2 " Good friends, this very small island, but very wicked, and very poor ; these two go together. Why Beretanee so great? Because that island good island, and send 1 Meaning the snowy image of the Virgin in the little Catholic chapel. 2 The word " arva," as here employed, means brandy. Poofai was one of the highest chiefs on the island, and a jolly companion. 198 omoo. mickonaree 1 to poor kanaka. 2 In Beretanee, every man rich : plenty things to bny ; and plenty things to sell. Houses bigger than Pomaree's, and more grand. Every- body, too, ride about in coaches, bigger than hers ; 3 and wear fine tappa every day. (Several luxurious appli- ances of civilisation were here enumerated, and de- scribed.) " Good friends, little to eat left at my house. Schooner from Sydney no bring bag of flour ; and kanaka no bring pig and fruit enough. Mickonaree do great deal for kanaka ; kanaka do little for mickonaree. So, good friends, weave plenty of cocoa-nut baskets, fill 'em, and bring 'em to-morrow." Such was the substance of great part of this discourse ; and, whatever may be thought of it, it was specially adapted to the minds of the islanders ; who are suscepti- ble to no impressions, except from things palpable, or novel and striking. To them, a dry sermon would be dry indeed. The Tahitians can hardly ever be said to reflect : they are all impulse ; and so, instead of expounding dogmas, the missionaries give them the large type, pleasing cuts, and short and easy lessons of the primer. Hence, any thing like a permanent religious impression is seldom or never produced. In fact, there is, perhaps, no race upon earth less dis- posed by nature to the monitions of Christianity than 1 This word, evidently a corruption of "missionary," is used under various significations by the natives. Sometimes, it is applied to a com- municant of the Church. But, above, it has its original meaning. 2 A word generally used by foreigners to designate the natives of Poly- nesia. 3 Pomaree, some time previous, had received a present of a chariot from Queen Victoria. It was afterwards sent to Oahu (Sandwich Islands), and there sold to pay her debts. A MISSIONARY'S SERMON. 199 the people of the South Sea. And this assertion is made with full knowledge of what is called the " Great Revi- val at the Sandwich Islands," about the year 1836 ; when several thousands were, in the course of a few weeks, admitted into the bosom of the Church. But this result was brought about by no sober moral convic- tions ; as an almost instantaneous relapse into every kind of licentiousness soon afterwards testified. It was the legitimate effect of a morbid feeling, engendered by the sense of severe physical wants, preying upon minds excessively prone to superstition ; and by fanatical preaching, inflamed into the belief, that the gods of the missionaries were taking vengeance upon the wickedness of the land. 1 It is a noteworthy fact, that those very traits in the Tahitians which induced the London Missionary Society to regard them as the most promising subjects for con- version, and which led, moreover, to the selection of their island as the very first field for missionary labour, event- ually proved the most serious obstruction. An air of softness in their manners, great apparent ingenuousness and docility, at first misled ; but these were the mere accompaniments of an indolence, bodily and mental ; a constitutional voluptuousness ; and an aversion to the least restraint ; which, however fitted for the luxurious state of nature, in the tropics, are the greatest possible hindrances to the strict moralities of Christianity. Added to all this, is a quality inherent in Polynesians ; and more akin to hypocrisy than any thing else. It leads them to assume the most passionate interest in matters for which they really feel little or none whatever, but in which those whose power they dread, or whose favour 1 At this period, many of the population were upon the verge of starva- tion. 200 omoo. they court, they believe to be at all affected. Thus, in their heathen state, the Sandwich Islanders actually knocked out their teeth, tore their hair, and mangled their bodies with shells, to testify their inconsolable grief at the demise of a high chief, or member of the royal family. And yet, Vancouver relates, that, on such an occasion, upon which he happened to be present, those apparently the most abandoned to their feelings, immediately as- sumed the utmost light-heartedness, on receiving the present of a penny whistle, or a Dutch looking-glass. Similar instances, also, have come under my own obser- vation. The following is an illustration of the trait alluded to, as occasionally manifested among the converted Polyne- sians. At one of the Society Islands — Raiatea, I believe — the natives, for special reasons, desired to commend themselves particularly to the favour of the missionaries. Accordingly, during divine service, many of them be- haved in a manner otherwise unaccountable, and pre- cisely similar to their behaviour as heathens. They pretended to be wrought up to madness by the preaching which they heard. They rolled their eyes ; foamed at the mouth ; fell down in fits ; and so were carried home. Yet, strange to relate, all this was deemed the evidence of the power of the Most High ; and, as such, was her- alded abroad. But, to return to the Church of the Cocoa-nuts. The blessing pronounced, the congregation disperse ; enliv- ening the Broom Road with their waving mantles. On either hand, they disappear down the shaded pathways, which lead off from the main route, conducting to hamlets in the groves, or to the little marine villas upon the beach. There is considerable hilarity; and you SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS. 201 would suppose them just from an old-fashioned " hevar," or jolly heathen dance. Those who carry Bibles, swing them carelessly from their arms, by cords of sinnate. The Sabbath is no ordinary day with the Tahitians. So far as doing any work is concerned, it is scrupulously observed. The canoes are hauled up on the beach ; the nets are spread to dry. Passing by the hen-coop huts, on the roadside, you find their occupants idle, as usual ; but less disposed to gossip. After service, repose broods over the whole island; the valleys reaching inland look stiller than ever. In short, it is Sunday — their " Taboo Day ; " the very word, formerly expressing the sacredness of their pagan observances, now proclaiming the sanctity of the Christian Sabbath. CHAPTER XL VI. SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS. A WORTHY young man, formerly a friend of mine (I speak of Kooloo with all possible courtesy, since after our intimacy there would be an impropriety in doing otherwise) — this worthy youth, having some genteel notions of retirement, dwelt in a " maroo boro," or bread- fruit shade, a pretty nook in a wood, midway between the Calabooza Beretanee and the Church of Cocoa-nuts. Hence, at the latter place, he was one of the most regular worshippers. Kooloo was a blade. Standing up in the congrega- tion in all the bravery of a striped calico shirt, with the skirts rakishly adjusted over a pair of white sailor 202 omoo. trousers, and hair well anointed with cocoa-nut oil, he ogled the ladies with an air of supreme satisfaction. Nor were his glances unreturned. But such looks as the Tahitian belles cast at each other : frequently turning up their noses at the advent of a new cotton mantle recently imported in the chest of some amorous sailor. Upon one occasion, I observed a group of young girls, in tunics of coarse, soiled sheet- ing, disdainfully pointing at a damsel in a naming red one. " Oee tootai owree ! " said they with ineffable scorn, " itai maitai ! " (you are a good-for-nothing huzzy, no better than you should be). Now, Kooloo communed with the church ; so did all these censorious young ladies. Yet, after eating bread- fruit at the Eucharist, I knew several of them, the same night, to be guilty of some sad derelictions. Puzzled by these things, I resolved to find out, if pos- sible, what ideas, if any, they entertained of religion ; but as one's spiritual concerns are rather delicate for a stranger to meddle with, I went to work as adroitly as I could. Farnow, an old native who had recently retired from active pursuits, having thrown up the business of being a sort of running footman to the queen, had settled down in a snug little retreat, not fifty rods from Captain Bob's. His selecting our vicinity for his residence, may have been with some view to the advantages it afforded for introducing his three daughters into polite circles. At any rate, not averse to receiving the attentions of so devoted a gallant as the doctor, the sisters (com- municants, be it remembered) kindly extended to him free permission to visit them sociably whenever he pleased. We dropped in one evening, and found the ladies at SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS. 203 home. My long friend engaged his favourites, the two younger girls, at the game of " Now," or hunting a stone under three piles of tappa. For myself, I lounged on a mat with Ideea, the eldest, dallying with her grass fan, and improving my knowledge of Tahitian. The occasion was well adapted to my purpose, and I began. " Ah, Ideea, mickonaree oee ? " the same as drawling out — " By the by, Miss Ideea, do you belong to the church ? " " Yes, me mickonaree," was the reply. But the assertion was at once qualified by certain reservations ; so curious, that I cannot forbear their relation. " Mickonaree ena " (church member here), exclaimed she, laying her hand upon her mouth, and a strong em- phasis on the adverb. In the same way, and with simi- lar exclamations, she touched her eyes and hands. This done, her whole air changed in an instant ; and she gave me to understand, by unmistakable gestures, that in certain other respects she was not exactly a " micko- naree." In short, Ideea was "A sad good Christian at the heart — A very heathen in the carnal part." 1 The explanation terminated in a burst of laughter, in which all three sisters joined ; and, for fear of looking silly, the doctor and myself, as soon as good breeding would permit, took leave. The hypocrisy in matters of religion, so apparent in all Polynesian converts, is most injudiciously nourished in Tahiti, by a zealous and, in many cases, a coercive superintendence over their spiritual well-being. But it 1 Pope (Epistle to a Lady). 204 omoo. is only manifested with respect to the common people, their superiors being exempted. On Sunday mornings, when the prospect is rather small for a full house in the minor churches, a parcel of fellows are actually sent out with rattans into the high- ways and byways as whippers-in of the congregation. This is a sober fact. 1 These worthies constitute a religious police ; and you always know them by the great white diapers they wear. On week days, they are quite as busy as on Sundays ; to the great terror of the inhabitants, going all over the island, and spying out the wickedness thereof. Moreover, they are the collectors of fines — levied generally in grass mats — for obstinate non-attendance upon divine worship, and other offences amenable to the ecclesiastical judicature of the missionaries. Old Bob called these fellows " kannakippers," a cor- ruption, I fancy, of our word constable. He bore them a bitter grudge ; and one day, drawing near home, and learning that two of them were just then making a domiciliary visit at his house, he ran behind a bush ; and as they came forth, two green bread- fruit from a hand unseen took them each between the shoulders. The sailors in the Calabooza were witnesses to this, as well as several natives ; who, when the intru- ders were out of sight, applauded Captain Bob's spirit in no measured terms ; the ladies present vehemently join- ing in. Indeed, the kannakippers have no greater ene- mies than the latter. And no wonder : the impertinent varlets, popping into their houses at all hours, are for- ever prying into their peccadilloes. 1 With abhorrence and disgust the custom is alluded to by a late benevolent visitor at the island. See page 763 of the " Memoirs of the Life and Gospel Labours of the late Daniel Wheeler." A work hereafter to be more particularly alluded to. SOMETHING ABOUT THE KANNAKIPPERS. 205 Kooloo, who at times was patriotic and pensive, and mourned the evils under which his country was groan- ing, frequently inveighed against the statute which thus authorised an utter stranger to interfere with domestic arrangements. He himself — quite a ladies' man — had often been annoyed thereby. He considered the kanna- kippers a bore. Besides their confounded inquisitiveness, they add insult to injury, by making a point of dining out every day at some hut within the limits of their jurisdiction. As for the gentleman of the house, his meek endurance of these things is amazing. But, " good easy man," there is nothing for him but to be as hospitable as possible. These gentry are indefatigable. At the dead of night prowling round the houses, and in the daytime hunting amorous couples in the groves. Yet in one instance the chase completely baffled them. It was thus : — Several weeks previous to our arrival at the island, some one's husband and another person's wife, having taken a mutual fancy for each other, went out for a walk. The alarm was raised, and with hue and cry they were pursued; but nothing was seen of them again until the lapse of some ninety days, when we were called out from the Calabooza to behold a great mob en- closing the lovers, and escorting them for trial to the village. Their appearance was most singular. The girdle ex- cepted, they were quite naked ; their hair was long, burned yellow at the ends, and entangled with burs ; and their bodies scratched and scarred in all directions. It seems, that acting upon the " love-in-a-cottage " prin- ciple, they had gone right into the interior ; and throw- ing up a hut in an uninhabited valley, had lived there, 206 OMOO. until in an unlucky stroll, they were observed and cap- tured. They were subsequently condemned to make one hundred fathoms of Broom Road — a six months' work if not more. Often, when seated in a house, conversing quietly with its inmates, I have known them betray the greatest confusion at the sudden announcement of a kannakip- per's being in sight. To be reported by one of these officials as a " Tootai Owree" (in general, signifying a bad person or disbeliever in Christianity) is as much dreaded as the forefinger of Titus Oates was, levelled at an alleged papist. But the islanders take a sly revenge upon them. Upon entering a dwelling, the kannakippers oftentimes volunteer a pharisaical prayer meeting : hence, they go in secret by the name of " Boora-Artuas," literally, " Pray-to-Gods." CHAPTER XL VII. HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI. Except where the employment of making " tappa " is inflicted as a punishment, the echoes of the cloth-mal- let have long since died away in the listless valleys of Tahiti. Formerly, the girls spent their mornings like ladies at their tambour frames ; now, they are lounged away in almost utter indolence. True, most of them make their own garments ; but this comprises but a stitch or two ; the ladies of the mission, by the by, being entitled to the credit of teaching them to sew. HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI. 207 The " kihee whihenee," or petticoat, is a mere breadth of white cotton, or calico ; loosely enveloping the person from the waist to the feet. Fastened simply, by a single tuck, or by twisting the upper corners together, this garment frequently becomes disordered ; thus affording an opportunity of being coquettishly adjusted. Over the " kihee," they wear a sort of gown, open in front, very loose, and as negligent as you please. The ladies here never dress for dinner. But what shall be said of those horrid hats ! Fancy a bunch of straw, plaited into the shape of a coal skut- tle, and stuck, bolt upright, on the crown ; with a yard or two of red ribbon, flying about like kite-strings. Milliners of Paris, what would ye say to them ! Though made by the natives, they are said to have been first contrived and recommended by the missionaries' wives ; a report which I really trust is nothing but scandal. Curious to relate, these things for the head are es- teemed exceedingly becoming. The braiding of the straw is one of the few employments of the higher classes ; all of which but minister to the silliest vanity. The young girls, however, wholly eschew the hate ; leaving those dowdy old souls, their mothers, to make frights of themselves. As for the men, those who aspire to European gar- ments seem to have no perception of the relation sub- sisting between the various parts of a gentleman's costume. To the wearer of a coat, for instance, panta- loons are by no means indispensable ; and a bell-crowned hat and a girdle are full dress. The young sailor, for whom Kooloo deserted me, presented him with a shaggy old pea-jacket ; and, with this buttoned up to his chin, under a tropical sun, he promenaded the Broom Road, quite elated. Doctor Long Ghost, who saw him thus, 208 omoo. ran away with the idea that he was under medical treat- ment at the time — in the act of taking, what the quacks call, a "sweat." A bachelor friend of Captain Bob rejoiced in the pos- session of a full European suit; in which he often stormed the ladies' hearts. Having a military leaning, he ornamented the coat with a great scarlet patch on the breast ; and mounted it also, here and there, with several regimental buttons, slyly cut from the uniform of a par- cel of drunken marines, sent ashore on a holiday from a man-of-war. But, in spite of the ornaments, the dress was not exactly the thing. From the tightness of the cloth across the shoulders, his elbows projected from his sides, like an ungainly rider's ; and his ponderous legs were jammed so hard into his slim, nether garments, that the threads of every seam showed ; and at every step you looked for a catastrophe. In general, there seems to be no settled style of dress- ing among the males : they wear anything they can get ; in some cases, awkwardly modifying the fashions of their fathers, so as to accord with their own altered views of what is becoming. But ridiculous as many of them now appear in foreign habiliments, the Tahitians presented a far different ap- pearance in the original national costume ; which was graceful in the extreme, modest to all but the prudish, and peculiarly adapted to the climate. But the short kilts of dyed tappa, the tasselled maroes, and other arti- cles formerly worn, are, at the present day, prohibited by law as indecorous. For what reason necklaces and garlands of flowers, among the women were also forbid- den, I never could learn ; but it is said that they were associated, in some way, with a forgotten heathen observance. HOW THEY DRESS IN TAHITI. 209 Many pleasant and seemingly innocent sports and pastimes are likewise interdicted. In old times, there were several athletic games practised, such as wrestling, foot-racing, throwing the javelin, and archery. In all these they greatly excelled ; and, for some, splendid festivals were instituted. Among their everyday amuse- ments, were dancing, tossing the football, kite-flying, flute-playing, and singing traditional ballads — now, all punishable offences ; though most of them have been so long in disuse that they are nearly forgotten. In the same way, the " Opio," or festive harvest home of the bread-fruit, has been suppressed ; though, as de- scribed to me by Captain Bob, it seemed wholly free from any immoral tendency. Against tattooing of an}^ kind, there is a severe law. That this abolition of their national amusements and customs was not willingly acquiesced in, is shown in the frequent violation of many of the statutes inhibiting them ; and, especially, in the frequency with which their " hevars," or dances, are practised in secret. Doubtless, in thus denationalising the Tahitians, as it were, the missionaries were prompted by a sincere desire for good ; but the effect has been lamentable. Supplied with no amusements, in place of those forbidden, the Tahitians, who require more recreation than other peo- ple, have sunk into a listlessness, or indulge in sensuali- ties, a hundred times more pernicious than all the games ever celebrated in, the Temple of Tanee. 210 OMOO. CHAPTER XLVIII. TAHITI AS IT IS. As, in the last few chapters, several matters connected with the general condition of the natives have been incidentally touched upon, it may be well not to leave so important a subject in a state calculated to convey erroneous impressions. Let us bestow upon it, there fore, something more than a mere cursory glance. But, in the first place, let it be distinctly understood, that in all I have to say upon this subject, both here and elsewhere, I mean no harm to the missionaries, nor their cause : I merely desire to set forth things as they actu- ally exist. Of the results which have flowed from the inter- course of foreigners with the Polynesians, including the attempts to civilise and christianise them by the missionaries, Tahiti, on many accounts, is obviously the fairest practical example. Indeed, it may now be asserted, that the experiment of christianising the Tahi- tians, and improving their social condition by the intro- duction of foreign customs, has been fully tried. The present generation have grown up under the auspices of their religious instructors. And although it may be urged that the labours of the latter have at times been more or less obstructed by unprincipled foreigners, still this in no wise renders Tahiti any the less a fair illus- tration ; for, with obstacles like these, the missionaries in Polynesia must always and everywhere struggle. Nearly sixty years have elapsed since the Tahitian mission was started; and during this period it has TAHITI AS IT IS. 211 received the unceasing prayers and contributions of its friends abroad. Nor has any enterprise of the kind called forth more devotion on the part of those directly employed in it. It matters not, that the earlier labourers in the work, although strictly conscientious, were, as a class, ignorant, and, in many cases, deplorably bigoted : such traits have, in some degree, characterised the pioneers of all faiths. And although, in zeal and disinterestedness, the missionaries now on the island are, perhaps, inferior to their predecessors, they have, nevertheless, in their own way at least, laboured hard to make a Christian people of their charge. Let us now glance at the most obvious changes wrought in their condition. The entire system of idolatry has been done away, together with several barbarous practices engrafted thereon. But this result is not so much to be ascribed to the missionaries as to the civilising effects of a long and constant intercourse with whites of all nations ; to whom, for many years, Tahiti has been one of the principal places of resort in the South Seas. At the Sandwich Islands, the potent institution of the Taboo, together with the entire paganism of the land, was utterly abolished by a voluntary act of the natives, some time previous to the arrival of the first missiona- ries among them. The next most striking change in the Tahitians is this. From the permanent residence among them of influential and respectable foreigners, as well as from the frequent visits of ships of war, recognising the nationality of the island, its inhabitants are no longer deemed fit subjects for the atrocities practised upon mere savages ; and hence, secure from retaliation, ves- 212 omoo. sels of all kinds now enter their harbours with perfect safety. But let us consider what results are directly ascriba- ble to the missionaries alone. In all cases, they have striven hard to mitigate the evils resulting from the commerce with the whites in general. Such attempts, however, have been rather injudicious, and often ineffectual : in truth, a barrier almost insurmountable is presented in the dispositions of the people themselves. Still, in this respect, the mo- rality of the islanders is, upon the whole, improved by the presence of the missionaries. But the greatest achievement of the latter, and one which in itself is most hopeful and gratifying, is, that they have translated the entire Bible into the language of the island; and I have myself known several who were able to read it with facility. They have also established churches, and schools for both children and adults ; the latter, I regret to say, are now much neg- lected ; which must be ascribed, in a great measure, to the disorders growing out of the proceedings of the French. It were unnecessary here to enter diffusely into mat- ters connected with the internal government of the Tahitian churches and schools. Nor, upon this head, is my information copious enough to warrant me in pre- senting details. But we do not need them. We are merely considering general results, as made apparent in the moral and religious condition of the island at large. Upon a subject like this, however, it would be alto- gether too assuming for a single individual to decide ; and so, in place of my own random observations, which may be found elsewhere, I will here present those of TAHITI AS IT 18. 213 several known authors, made under various circum- stances, at different periods, and down to a compara- tively late date. A few very brief extracts will enable t the reader to mark for himself what progressive im- provement, if any, has taken place. Nor must it be overlooked, that of these authorities, the two first in order are largely quoted by the Right Reverend M. Russell, in a work composed for the express purpose of imparting information on the subject of Christian missions in Polynesia. And he frankly acknowledges, moreover, that they are such as " cannot fail to have great weight with the public." 1 After alluding to the manifold evils entailed upon the natives by foreigners, and their singularly inert condition ; and after somewhat too severely denouncing the undeniable errors of the mission, Kotzebue, the Russian navigator says, "A religion like this, which forbids every innocent pleasure, and cramps or annihi- lates every mental power, is a libel on the divine founder of Christianity. It is true, that the religion of the missionaries has, with a great deal of evil, effected some good. It has restrained the vices of theft and incontinence ; but it has given birth to ignorance, hypocrisy, and a hatred of all other modes of faith, which was once foreign to the open and benevolent character of the Tahitian." 2 Captain Beechy says, that while at Tahiti he saw scenes " which must have convinced the greatest sceptic of the thoroughly immoral condition of the people, and 1 " Polynesia ; or an Historical Account of the Principal Islands of the South Sea: - ' By the Right Rev. M. Russell, LL.D. (Harpers' Family Library Edition), p. 96. 2 " A new Voyage round the World in the years 1823-24-25-26 : " By Otto Von Kotzebue, Post Captain in the Russian Imperial Service (Lon- don, 1830; 2 vols. 8vo), vol. i. p. 168. 214 omoo. which would force him to conclude, as Turnbull 1 did many years previous, that their intercourse with the Europeans had tended to debase rather than exalt their condition." 2 About the year 1834, Daniel Wheeler, an honest- hearted Quaker, prompted by motives of the purest philanthropy, visited, in a vessel of his own, most of the missionary settlements in the South Seas. He remained some time at Tahiti ; receiving the hospitali- ties of the missionaries there, and, from time to time, exhorting the natives. After bewailing their social condition, he frankly says of their religious state, " Certainly, appearances are unpromising ; and however unwilling to adopt such a conclusion, there is reason to apprehend, that Christian principle is a great rarity." 3 Such, then, is the testimony of good and unbiassed men who have been upon the spot ; but how comes it to differ so widely from impressions of others at home ? Simply thus : instead of estimating the result of mis- sionary labours by the number of heathens who have actually been made to understand and practise (in some measure at least) the precepts of Christianity, this result has been unwarrantably inferred from the number of those who, without any understanding of these things, have in any way been induced to abandon idol- atry and conform to certain outward observances. By authority of some kind or other, exerted upon the natives through their chiefs, and promoted by the i The author of a Voyage round the World, in the years 1800-1804 (3 vols. 8vo, London, 1805). 2 Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific and Bhering's Straits, under the command of Captain F. W. Beechy, R. N. (London, 1831), vol. i. p. 287. 8 Memoirs of the Life and Gospel Labours of the late Daniel Wheeler, a minister of the Society of Friends (London, 1842, 8vo), p. 757. TAHITI AS IT IS. 215 hope of some worldly benefit to the latter, and not by appeals to the reason, have conversions in Polynesia been in most cases brought about. Even in one or two instances — so often held up as wonderful examples of divine power — where the natives have impulsively burned their idols, and rushed to the waters of baptism, the very suddenness of the change has but indicated its unsoundness. Williams, the martyr of Erromanga, relates an instance where the inhabitants of an island professing Christianity voluntarily assem- bled, and solemnly revived all their heathen customs. All the world over, facts are more eloquent than words ; and the following will show in what estimation the missionaries themselves hold the present state of Christianity and morals among the converted Polynesians. On the island of Imeeo (attached to the Tahitian mission) is a seminary, under the charge of the Rev. Mr. Simpson and wife, for the education of the children of the missionaries exclusively. Sent home — in many cases, at a very early age — to finish their education, the pupils here are taught nothing but the rudiments of knowledge ; nothing more than may be learned in the native schools. Notwithstanding this, the two races are kept as far as possible from associating ; the avowed rea- son being, to preserve the young whites from moral con- tamination. The better to insure this end, every effort is made to prevent them from acquiring the native lan- guage. They went even further at the Sandwich Islands-, where, a few years ago, a play-ground for the children of the missionaries was enclosed with a fence many feet high, the more effectually to exclude the wicked little Hawaiians. And yet, strange as it may seem, the depravity among 216 omoo. the Polynesians, which renders precautions like these necessary, was in a measure unknown before their inter- course with the whites. The excellent Captain Wilson, who took the first missionaries out to Tahiti, affirms, that the people of that island had, in many things, " more refined ideas of decency than ourselves." l Van- couver, also has some noteworthy ideas on this subject, re- specting the Sandwich Islanders. 2 That the immorality alluded to is continually increas- ing, is plainly shown in the numerous severe, and per- petually violated laws against licentiousness of all kinds, in both groups of islands. It is hardly to be expected, that the missionaries would send home accounts of this state of things. Hence, Captain Beechy, in alluding to the " Polynesian Researches " of Ellis, says, that the author has impressed his readers with a far more elevated idea of the moral condition of the Tahiti ans, and the degree of civilisa- tion to which they have attained, than they deserve ; or, at least, than the facts which came under his observa- tion authorised. He then goes on to say, that in his intercourse with the islanders, " they had no fear of him, and consequently acted from the impulse of their natural feelings ; so that he was the better enabled to obtain a correct knowledge of their real disposition and habits. 3 From my own familiar intercourse with the natives, this last reflection still more forcibly applies to my- self. 1 A Missionary Voyage to the South Pacific Ocean, Appendix, pp. 336, 342. * See Vancouver's Voyages, 4to edition, vol. i. p. 172. 8 Beechy'8 Narrative, p. 269. SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED. 217 CHAPTER XLIX. SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED. We have glanced at their moral and religious condi- tion ; let us see how it is with them socially, and in other respects. It has been said that the only way to civilise a people is to form in them habits of industry. Judged by this principle, the Tahitians are less civilised now than for- merly. True, their constitutional indolence is exces- sive; but surely, if the spirit of Christianity is among them, so unchristian a vice ought to be, at least, par- tially remedied. But the reverse is the fact. Instead of acquiring new occupations, old ones have been dis- continued. As previously remarked, the manufacture of tappa is nearly obsolete in many parts of the island. So, too, with that of the native tools and domestic utensils; very few of which are now fabricated, since the supe- riority of European wares has been made so evident. This, however, would be all very well, were the natives to apply themselves to such occupations as would enable them to supply the few articles they need. But they are far from doing so ; and the majority being unable to obtain European substitutes for many things before made by themselves, the inevitable consequence is seen in the present wretched and destitute mode of life among the common people. To me, so recently from a primitive valley of the Marquesas, the aspect of most of the dwellings of the poorer Tahitians, and their general habits, seemed anything but tidy ; nor could I 218 omoo. avoid a comparison, immeasurably to the disadvantage of these partially civilised islanders. In Tahiti the people have nothing to do ; and idle- ness, everywhere, is the parent of vice. "There is scarcely anything," says the good old Quaker Wheeler, "so striking, or pitiable, as their aimless, nerveless mode of spending life." Attempts have repeated^ been made to rouse them from their sluggishness ; but in vain. Several years ago, the cultivation of cotton was introduced ; and with their usual love of novelty, they went to work with great alacrity ; but the interest excited quickly subsided, and now not a pound of the article is raised. About the same time, machinery for weaving was sent out from London ; and a factory was started at Afrehi- too, in Imeeo. The whiz of the wheels and spindles brought in volunteers from all quarters, who deemed it a privilege to be admitted to work : yet, in six months, not a boy could be hired ; and the machinery was knocked down, and packed off to Sydney. It was the same way with the cultivation of the sugar- cane, a plant indigenous to the island ; peculiarly fitted to the soil and climate, and of so excellent a quality, that Bligh took slips of it to the West Indies. All the plantations went on famously for a while ; the natives swarming in the fields, like ants, and making a prodi- gious stir. What few plantations now remain, are owned and worked by whites, who would rather pay a drunken sailor eighteen or twenty Spanish dollars a month than hire a sober native for his " fish and taro." ^It is well worthy remark here, that every evidence of /civilisation among the South Sea Islands directly per- M&ins to foreigners ; though the fact of such evidence existing at all is usually urged as a proof of the elevated SAME SUBJECT CONTINUED. 219 condition of the natives. Thus, at Honolulu, the capital of the Sandwich Islands, there are fine dwelling- houses, several hotels, and barber-shops, ay, even billiard- rooms ; but all these are owned and used, be it observed, by whites. There are tailors, and blacksmiths, and car- penters also ; but not one of them is a native. The fact is, that the mechanical and agricultural em- ployments of civilised life require a kind of exertion altogether too steady and sustained to agree with an indolent people like the Polynesians. Calculated for a state of nature, in a climate providentially adapted to it, they are unfit for any other. Nay, as a race, they can- not otherwise long exist. The following statement speaks for itself. About the year 1777, Captain Cook estimated the population of Tahiti at about two hundred thousand. 1 By a regular census, taken some four or five years ago, it was found to be only nine thousand. 2 This amazing decrease not only shows the malignancy of the evils necessary to produce it, but from the fact the inference unavoidably follows that all the wars, child murders, and other depopulating causes, alleged to have existed in former times, were nothing in comparison to them. 1 " I was convinced," he adds, " that from the vast swarms that every- where appeared, this estimate was not at all too great." 2 For an allusion to this census, see one of the chapters on Tahiti, in the volumes of the U. S. Exploring Expedition. And, for the almost incredible depopulation of the Sandwich Islands, in recent years, see the game work. The progressive decrease, in certain districts, for a consider- able period, is there marked. Ruschenberger, an intelligent surgeon in the United States Navy, takes the following instance from the records kept on the islands. This district of Kohala, in Hawaii, at one time numbered 8,679 souls: four years after, the population was 6,175 : decrease, in that time, 2,504. No extraordinary cause is assigned for this depopulation — Vide A Voyage round the World in the years 1835-36-37. By W. S. Ruschenberger, M.D. (Philadelphia, 1838. 8vo.) The chapter on the Sandwich Islands. 220 omoo. These evils, of course, are solely of foreign origin. To say nothing of the effects of drunkenness, the occa- sional inroads of the small-pox, and other things which might be mentioned, it is sufficient to allude to a viru- lent disease, which now taints the blood of at least two thirds of the common people of the island ; and, in some form or other, is transmitted from father to son. Their first horror and consternation at the earlier rav- ages of this scourge were pitiable in the extreme. The very name bestowed upon it, is a combination of all that is horrid and unmentionable to a civilized being. Distracted with their sufferings, they brought forth their sick before the missionaries, when they were preaching, and cried out, " Lies, lies ! you tell us of salvation ; and, behold, we are dying. We want no other salvation than to live in this world. Where are there any saved through your speech ? Pomaree is dead ; and we are all dying with your cursed diseases. When will you give over ? " At present, the virulence of the disorder in individual cases has somewhat abated; but the poison is only the more widely diffused. " How dreadful and appalling," breaks forth old Wheeler, " the consideration, that the intercourse of distant nations should have entailed upon these poor, untutored islanders a curse unprecedented and unheard of in the annals of history." In view of these things, who can remain blind to the fact, that so far as mere temporal felicity is concerned, the Tahitians are far worse off now than formerly ; and although their circumstances, upon the whole, are bet- tered by the presence of the missionaries, the benefits conferred by the latter become utterly insignificant when 8 A ME SUBJECT CONTINUED. 221 confronted with the vast preponderance of evil brought about by other means. Their prospects are hopeless. Nor can the most devoted efforts now exempt them from furnishing a marked illustration of a principle which history has always exemplified. Years ago brought to a stand, where all that is corrupt in barbarism and civilisation unite, to the exclusion of the virtues of either state ; like other uncivilised beings, brought into contact with Euro- peans, they must here remain stationary until utterly extinct. The islanders themselves are mournfully watching their doom. Several years since, Pomaree II. said to Tyerman and Bennet, the deputies of the London Mis- sionary Society, " You have come to see me at a very bad time. Your ancestors came in the time of men, when Tahiti was inhabited : you are come to behold just the remnant of my people." Of like import, was the prediction of Teearmoar, the high-priest of Paree, who lived over a hundred years ago. I have frequently heard it chanted, in a low, sad tone, by aged Tahitians : — "A harree ta fow, A toro ta farraro, A now ta tararta." The palm-tree shall grow, The coral shall spread, But man shall cease. 222 omoo. CHAPTER L. SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST. We will now return to the narrative. The day before the Julia sailed, Dr. Johnson paid his last call. He was not quite so bland as usual. All he wanted was the men's names to a paper, certifying to their having received from him sundry medicaments, therein mentioned. This voucher, endorsed by Captain Guy, secured his pay. But he would not have obtained for it the sailors' signs manual, had either the doctor or myself been present at the time. Now, my long friend wasted no love upon Johnson but, for reasons of his own, hated him heartily : all the same thing in one sense; for either passion argues an object deserving thereof. And so, to be hated cordially is only a left-handed compliment, which shows how fool ish it is to be bitter against any one. For my own part, I merely felt a cool — purely inci dental — and passive contempt for Johnson, as a selfish mercenary apothecary ; and hence I often remonstrated with Long Ghost when he flew out against him, and heaped upon him all manner of scurrilous epithets. In his professional brother's presence, however, he never acted thus ; maintaining an amiable exterior, to help along the jokes which were played. I am now going to tell another story, in which my long friend figures with the physician : I do not wish to bring one or the other of them too often upon the stage ; but, as the thing actually happened, I must relate it. A few days after Johnson presented his bill, as above SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST. 223 mentioned, the doctor expressed to me his regret, that although he (Johnson) had apparently been played off for our entertainment, yet, nevertheless, he had made money out of the transaction. And I wonder, added the doctor, if, that now he cannot expect to receive any further pay, he could be induced to call again. By a curious coincidence, not five minutes after mak- ing this observation, Doctor Long Ghost himself fell down in an unaccountable fit ; and without asking any- body's leave, Captain Bob, who was by, at once de- spatched a boy, hot foot, for Johnson. Meanwhile, we carried him into the Calabooza ; and the natives, who assembled in numbers, suggested vari- ous modes of treatment. One rather energetic practi- tioner was for holding the patient by the shoulders, while somebody tugged at his feet. This resuscitatory opera- tion was called the " Potata ; " but thinking our long comrade sufficiently lengthy without additional stretch- ing, we declined potataing him. Presently the physician was spied coming along the Broom Road at a great rate, and so absorbed in the busi- ness of locomotion, that he heeded not the imprudence of being in a hurry in a tropical climate. He was in a profuse perspiration, which must have been owing to the warmth of his feelings, notwithstanding we had supposed him a man of no heart. But his benevolent haste upon this occasion was subsequently accounted for : it merely arose from professional curiosity, to behold a case most unusual in his Polynesian practice. Now, under certain circumstances, sailors, generally so frolicsome, are ex- ceedingly particular in having everything conducted with the strictest propriety. Accordingly, they deputed me, as his intimate friend, to sit at Long Ghost's head, so as to be ready to officiate as " spokesman ; " and 224 omoo. answer all questions propounded ; the rest to keep silent. " What's the matter ? " exclaimed Johnson, out of breath, and bursting into the Calabooza : " how did it happen ? — speak, quick ! " and he looked at Long Ghost. I told him how the fit came on. " Singular," — he observed — " very : good enough pulse ; " and he let go of it, and placed his hand upon the heart. " But what's all that frothing at the mouth ? " he con- tinued ; " and, bless me ! look at the abdomen ! " The region thus denominated exhibited the most unaccountable symptoms. A low, rumbling sound was heard ; and a sort of undulation was discernible beneath the thin cotton frock. " Colic, sir ? " suggested a by-stander. " Colic be hanged ! " shouted the physician ; " who ever heard of any body in a trance of the colic ? " During this, the patient lay upon his back, stark and straight, giving no signs of life except those above mentioned. " I'll bleed him ! " cried Johnson at last — " run for a calabash, one of you ! " " Life ho ! " here sung out Navy Bob, as if he had just spied a sail. " What under the sun's the matter with him ! " cried the physician, starting at the appearance of the mouth, which had jerked to one side, and there remained fixed. " P'r'aps it's St. Witus's hornpipe," suggested Bob. " Hold the calabash ! " — and the lancet was out in a moment. But before the deed could be done, the face became natural ; — a sigh was heaved ; — the eyelids quivered, SOMETHING HAPPENS TO LONG GHOST. 225 opened, closed ; and Long Ghost, twitching all over, rolled on his side, and breathed audibly. By degrees) he became sufficiently recovered to speak. After trying to get something coherent out of him, Johnson withdrew ; evidently disappointed in the scien- tific interest of the case. Soon after his departure, the doctor sat up; and upon being asked what upon earth ailed him, shook his head mysteriously. He then de- plored the hardship of being an invalid in such a place, where there was not the slightest provision for his com- fort. This awakened the compassion of our good old keeper, who offered to send him to a place where he would be better cared for. Long Ghost acquiesced; and being at once mounted upon the shoulders of four of Captain Bob's men, was marched off in state, like the Grand Lama of Thibet. Now, I do not pretend to account for his remarkable swoon ; but his reason for suffering himself to be thus removed from the Calabooza was strongly suspected to be nothing more than a desire to insure more regularity in his dinner-hour; hoping that the benevolent native to whom he was going would set a good table. The next morning we were all envying his fortune; when, of a sudden, he bolted in upon us, looking decid- edly out of humour. " Hang it ! " he cried, " I'm worse off than ever; let me have some breakfast ! " We lowered our slender bag of ship-stores from a rafter, and handed him a biscuit. While this was being munched, he went on and told us his story. " After leaving here, they trotted me back into a val- ley, and left me in a hut, where an old woman lived by herself. This must be the nurse, thought I ; and so I asked her to kill a pig, and bake it ; for I felt my appe- 226 omoo. tite returning. l Ita! ita! — oee mattee — mattee nuee* — (no, no; you too sick.) ' The devil mattee ye,' said I — 1 give me something to eat ! ' But nothing could be had. Night coming on, I had to stay. Creeping into a corner, I tried to sleep ; but it was to no purpose ; — the old crone must have had the quinsy, or something else ; and she kept up such a wheezing and choking, that at last I sprang up and groped after her ; but she hobbled away like a goblin ; and that was the last of her. As soon as the sun rose, I made the best of my way back ; and here I am." He never left us more, nor ever had a second fit CHAPTER LI. WILSON GIVES US THE CUT DEPARTURE FOR 1MEER. About three weeks after the Julia's sailing, our con- dition began to be a little precarious. We were without any regular supply of food; the arrival of ships was growing less frequent ; and, what was worse yet, all the natives but good old Captain Bob began to tire of us. Nor was this to be wondered at ; we were obliged to live upon their benevolence, when they had little enough for themselves. Besides, we were sometimes driven to acts of marauding : such as kidnapping pigs, and cooking them in the groves ; at which their proprietors were by no means pleased. In this state of affairs, we determined to march off to the consul in a body ; and, as he had brought us to these straits, demand an adequate maintenance. On the point of starting, Captain Bob's menraisedthe WILSON GIVES US THE CUT, 227 most outrageous cries, and tried to prevent us. Though hitherto we had strolled about wherever we pleased, this grand conjunction of our whole force upon one par- ticular expedition, seemed to alarm them. But we as- sured them that we were not going to assault the village ; and so, after a good deal of gibberish, they permitted us to leave. We went straight to the Pritchard residence, where the consul dwelt. This house — to which I have before referred — is quite commodious. It has a wide verandah, glazed windows, and other appurtenances of a civilised mansion. Upon the lawn in front are palm-trees stand- ing erect here and there, like sentinels. The Consular Office, a small building by itself, is enclosed by the same picket which fences in the lawn. We found the office closed ; but in the verandah of the dwelling-house was a lady performing a tonsorial operation on the head of a prim-looking, elderly Euro- pean, in a low, white cravat ; — the most domestic little scene I had witnessed since leaving home. Bent upon an interview with Wilson, the sailors now deputed the doctor to step forward as a polite inquirer after his health. The pair stared very hard as he advanced; but no ways disconcerted, he saluted them gravely, and inquired for the consul. Upon being informed that he had gone down to the beach, we proceeded in that direction ; and soon met a native, who told us that, apprised of our vicinity, Wilson was keeping out of the way. We resolved to meet him ; and passing through the village, he suddenly came walk- ing towards us, having apparently made up his mind that any attempt to elude us would be useless. " What do you want of me, you rascals ? " he cried — 228 omoo. a greeting which provoked a retort in no measured terms. At this juncture, the natives began to crowd round, and several foreigners strolled along. Caught in the very act of speaking to such disreputable acquaintances, Wilson now fidgeted, and moved rapidly towards his office ; the men following. Turning upon them incensed, he bade them be off — he would have nothing more to say to us ; and then, hurriedly addressing Captain Bob in Tahitian, he hastened on, and never stopped till the postern of Pritchard's wicket was closed behind him. Our good old keeper was now highly excited, bustling about in his huge petticoats, and conjuring us to return to the Calabooza. After a little debate, we acquiesced. This interview was decisive. Sensible that none of the charges brought against us would stand, yet unwill- ing formally to withdraw them, the consul now wished to get rid of us altogether ; but without being suspected of encouraging our escape. Thus only could we account for his conduct. Some of the party, however, with a devotion to prin- ciple truly heroic, swore they would never leave him, happen what might. For my own part, I began to long for a change ; and as there seemed to be no getting away in a ship, I resolved to hit upon some other expedient. But first, I cast about for a comrade ; and of course the long doctor was chosen. We at once laid our heads to- gether ; and for the present, resolved to disclose nothing to the rest. A few days previous, I had fallen in with a couple of Yankee lads, twins, who, originally deserting their ship at Fanning's Island (an uninhabited spot, but exceedingly prolific in fruit of all kinds), had, after a long residence there, roved about among the Society group. They were last from Imeeo — the island immediately adjoining — WILSON GIVES US THE CUT. 229 where they had been in the employ of two foreigners, who had recently started a plantation there. These per- sons, they said, had charged them to send over from Papeetee, if they could, two white men for field- labourers. Now, all but the prospect of digging and delving, suited us exactly ; but the opportunity for leaving the island was not to be slighted; and so we held our- selves in readiness to return with the planters ; who, in a day or two, were expected to visit Papeetee in their boat. At the interview which ensued, we were introduced to them as Peter and Paul ; and they agreed to give Peter and Paul fifteen silver dollars a month, promising something more, should we remain with them perma- nently. What they wanted, was men who would stay. To elude the natives — many of whom not exactly understanding our relations with the consul, might arrest us, were they to see us departing — the coming midnight was appointed for that purpose. When the hour drew nigh, we disclosed our intention to the rest. Some upbraided us for deserting them ; others applauded, and said, that on the first opportunity they would follow our example. At last, we bade them farewell. And there would now be a serene sadness in thinking over the scene — since we never saw them again — had not all been dashed by M'Gee's picking the doctor's pocket of a jackknife, in the very act of embracing him. We stole down to the beach, where, under the shadow of a grove, the boat was waiting. After some delay, we shipped the oars, and pulling outside of the reef, set the sail ; and with a fair wind, glided away for Imeeo. It was a pleasant trip. The moon was up — the air, 230 omoo. warm — the waves, musical — and all above was the tropical night, one purple vault hung round with soft, trembling stars. The channel is some five leagues wide. On one hand, you have the three great peaks of Tahiti lording it over ranges of mountains and valleys ; and on the other, the equally romantic elevations of Imeeo, high above which a lone peak, called by our companions, "the Marling-spike," shot up its verdant spire. The planters were quite sociable. They had been sea-faring men, and this, of course, was a bond between us. To strengthen it, a flask of wine was produced, one of several which had been procured in person from the French admiral's steward ; for whom the planters, when on a former visit to Papeetee, had done a good turn, by introducing the amorous Frenchman to the ladies ashore. Besides this, they had a calabash filled with wild boar's meat, baked yams, bread-fruit, and Tombez potatoes. Pipes and tobacco also were produced ; and while regaling ourselves, plenty of stories were told about the neighbouring islands. At last we heard the roar of the Imeeo reef ; and gliding through a break, floated over the expanse within, which was smooth as a young girl's brow, and beached the boat. TEE VALLEY OF MART AIR. CHAPTER LII. THE VALLEY OF MARTAIR. We went up through groves to an open space, where we heard voices, and a light was seen glimmering from out a bamboo dwelling. It was the planters' retreat ; and in their absence, several girls were keeping house, assisted by an old native, who, wrapped up in tappa, lay in the corner, smoking. A hasty meal was prepared, and after it we essayed a nap ; but, alas ! a plague, little anticipated, prevented. Unknown in Tahiti, the musquitoes here fairly eddied round us. But more of them anon. We were up betimes, and strolled out to view the country. We were in the valley of Martair ; shut in, on both sides, by lofty hills. Here and there were steep cliffs, gay with flowering shrubs, or hung with pendu- lous vines, swinging blossoms in the air. Of consider- able width at the sea, the vale contracts as it runs inland ; terminating, at the distance of several miles, in a range of the most grotesque elevations, which seem embattled with turrets and towers, grown over with verdure, and waving with trees. The valley itself is a wilderness of woodland ; with links of streams flashing through, and narrow pathways, fairly tunnelled through masses of foliage. All alone, in this wild place, was the abode of the planters ; the only one back from the beach — their sole neighbours, the few fishermen and their families, dwelling in a small grove of cocoa-nut trees, whose roots were washed by the sea. 232 omoo. The cleared tract which they occupied comprised some thirty acres, level as a prairie, part of which was under cultivation ; the whole being fenced in by a stout pali- sade of trunks and boughs of trees staked firmly in the ground. This was necessary, as a defence against the wild cattle and hogs overrunning the island. Thus far, Tombez potatoes l were the principal crop raised ; a ready sale for them being obtained among the shipping touching at Papeetee. There was a small patch of the taro, or Indian turnip, also ; another of yams ; and, in one corner, a thrifty growth of the sugar- cane, just ripening. On the side of the enclosure next the sea was the house ; newly built of bamboos, in the native style. The furniture consisted of a couple of sea-chests, an old box, a few cooking utensils, and agricultural tools ; to- gether with three fowling-pieces, hanging from a rafter; and two enormous hammocks, swinging in opposite corners, and composed of dried bullocks' hides, stretched out with poles. The whole plantation was shut in by a dense forest ; and, close by the house, a dwarfed " Aoa," or species of banian-tree, had purposely been left twisting over the palisade, in the most grotesque manner, and thus made a pleasant shade. The branches of this curious tree afforded low perches, upon which the natives frequently squatted, after the fashion of their race, and smoked and gossiped by the hour. We had a good breakfast of fish — speared by the natives, before sunrise, on the reef — pudding of Indian turnip, fried bananas, and roasted bread-fruit. 1 Perhaps the finest sweet potato in the world. It derives its name from a district of Peru, near Cape Blanco, very favorable to its growth ; where, also, it is extensively cultivated : the root is very large, sometimes as big as a good-sized melon. THE VALLEY OF MART AIR. 233 During the repast, our new friends were quite sociable and communicative. It seems that, like nearly all un- educated foreigners residing in Polynesia, they had some time previous, deserted from a ship ; and, having- heard a good deal about the money to be made by raising supplies for whaling-vessels, they determined upon em- barking in the business. Strolling about, with this intention, they at last came to Martair ; and, thinking the soil would suit, set themselves to work. They began, by finding out the owner of the particular spot coveted, and then making a " tayo " of him. He turned out to be Tonoi, the chief of the fisher- men, who, one day, when exhilarated with brandy, tore his meagre tappa from his loins, and gave me to know that he was allied by blood with Pomaree herself; and that his mother came from the illustrious race of pontiffs who, in old times, swayed their bamboo crosier over all the pagans of Imeeo. A regal and right reverend lin- eage ! But at the time I speak of, the dusky noble was in " decayed circumstances," and therefore by no means unwilling to alienate a few useless acres. As an equiv- alent, he received from the strangers two or three rheu- matic old muskets, several red woollen shirts, and a promise to be provided for in his old age : he was always to find a home with the planters. Desirous of living on the cozy footing of a father-in- law, he frankly offered his two daughters for wives ; but, as such, they were politely declined ; the adventurers, though not averse to courting, being unwilling to entangle themselves in a matrimonial alliance, however splendid in point of family. Tonoi's men, the fishermen of the grove, were a sad set. Secluded, in a great measure, from the ministra- tions of the missionaries, they gave themselves up to all 234 omoo. manner of lazy wickedness. Strolling among the trees of a morning, you came upon them napping on the shady side of a canoe hauled up among the bushes ; lying under a tree smoking ; or, more frequently still, gam- bling with pebbles ; though, a little tobacco excepted, what they gambled for at their outlandish games, it would be hard to tell. Other idle diversions they had also, in which they seemed to take great delight. As for fishing, it employed but a small part of their time. Upon the whole, they were a merry, indigent, godless race. Tonoi, the old sinner, leaning against the fallen trunk of a cocoa-nut tree, invariably squandered his mornings at pebbles ; a grey-headed rook of a native regularly pluck- ing him of every other stick of tobacco obtained from his friends, the planters. Toward afternoon, he strolled back to their abode ; where he tarried till the next morning, smoking and snoozing, and, at times, prating about the hapless fortunes of the House of Tonoi. But, like any other easy-going old dotard, he seemed for the most part perfectly content with cheerful board and lodging. On the whole, the valley of Martair was the quietest place imaginable. Could the musquitoes be induced to emigrate, one might spend the month of August there quite pleasantly. But this was not the case with the luckless Long Ghost and myself ; as will presently be seen. FARMING IN POLYNESIA. 235 CHAPTER LIIL FARMING IN POLYNESIA. The planters were both whole-souled fellows ; but, in other respects, as unlike as possible. One was a tall, robust Yankee, born in the backwoods of Maine, sallow, and with a long face ; — the other was a short little Cockney, who had first clapped his eyes on the Monument. The voice of Zeke, the Yankee, had a twang like a cracked viol ; and Shorty (as his comrade called him) clipped the aspirate from every word beginning with one. The latter, though not the tallest man in the world, was a good-looking young fellow, of twenty-five. His cheeks were dyed with the fine Saxon red, burned deeper from his roving life ; his blue eyes opened well, and a profusion of fair hair curled over a well-shaped head. But Zeke was no beauty. A strong, ugly man, he was well adapted for manual labor ; and that was all. His eyes were made to see with, and not for ogling. Compared with the Cockney, he was grave, and rather taciturn ; but there was a deal of good old humour bottled up in him, after all. For the rest, he was frank, good-hearted, shrewd, and resolute ; and, like Shorty, quite illiterate. Though a curious conjunction, the pair got along together famously. But as no two men were ever united in any enterprise, without one getting the upper hand of the other ; so, in most matters, Zeke had his own way. Shorty, too, had imbibed from him a 236 omoo. spirit of invincible industry ; and Heaven only knows what ideas of making a fortune on their plantation. We were much concerned at this; for the prospect of their setting us in their own persons an example of downright hard labour, was anything but agree- able. But it was now too late to repent what we had done. The first day — thank fortune — we did nothing. Having treated us as guests thus far, they no doubt thought it would be wanting in delicacy to set us to work before the compliments of the occasion were well over. The next morning, however, they both looked business-like, and we were put to. " Wall, Vys," (boys) said Zeke, knocking the ashes out of his pipe, after breakfast — " we must get at it. Shorty, give Peter there (the doctor), the big hoe, and Paul the other, and let's be off." Going to a corner, Shorty brought forth three of the implements ; and dis- tributing them impartially, trudged on after his partner, who took the lead with something in the shape of an axe. For a moment left alone in the house, we looked at each other, quaking. We were each equipped with a great clumsy piece of a tree, armed at one end with a heavy, flat mass of iron. The cutlery part — especially adapted to a primitive soil — was an importation from Sydney ; the handles must have been of domestic manufacture. " Hoes " — so called — we had heard of, and seen ; but they were harmless, in comparison with the tools in our hands. " What's to be done with them ? " inquired I of Peter. " Lift them up and down," he replied ; " or put them FARMING IN POLYNESIA. 237 in motion some way or other. Paul, we are in a scrape — but hark! they are calling;" and shouldering the hoes, off we marched. Our destination was the farther side of the plantation, where the ground, cleared in part, had not yet been broken up ; but they were now setting about it. Upon halting, I asked why a plough was not used : some of the young wild steers might be caught, and trained for draught. Zeke replied, that, for such a purpose, no cattle, to his knowledge, had ever been used in any part of Poly- nesia. As for the soil of Martair, so obstructed was it with roots, crossing and recrossing each other at all points, that no kind of a plough could be used to advan- tage. The heavy Sydney hoes were the only thing for such land. Our work was now before us ; but, previous to com- mencing operations, I endeavoured to engage the Yankee in a little further friendly chat, concerning the nature of virgin soils in general, and that of the valley of Mar- tair in particular. So masterly a stratagem made Long Ghost brighten up ; and he stood by ready to join in. But what our friend had to say about agriculture, all referred to the particular part of his plantation upon which we stood ; and having communicated enough on this head, to enable us to set to work to the best advan- tage, he fell to himself ; and Shorty, who had been look- ing on, followed suit. The surface, here and there, presented closely ampu- tated branches of what had once been a dense thicket. They seemed purposely left projecting, as if to furnish a handle, whereby to drag out the roots beneath. After loosening the hard soil, by dint of much thumping and pounding, the Yankee jerked one of the roots, this way 238 omoo. and that, twisting it round and round, and then tugging at it horizontally. " Come ! lend us a hand ! " he cried, at last ; and, running up, we all four strained away in concert. The tough obstacle convulsed the surface with throes and spasms ; but stuck fast, notwithstanding. " Duinn it ! " cried Zeke, " we'll have to get a rope ; run to the house, Shorty, and fetch one." The end of this being attached, we took plenty of room, and strained away once more. " Give us a song, Shorty," said the doctor, who was rather sociable, on a short acquaintance. Where the work to be accomplished is any way difficult, this mode of enlivening toil is quite efficacious among sailors. So, willing to make everything as cheerful as possible, Shorty struck up, " Were you ever in Dumbarton ? " a marvellously inspiring, but somewhat indecorous wind- lass chorus. At last, the Yankee cast a damper on his enthusiasm, by exclaiming, in a pet, " Oh ! dumn your singing ! keep quiet, and pull away ! " This we now did, in the most uninteresting silence ; until, with a jerk that made every elbow hum, the root dragged out ; and, most inelegantly, we all landed upon the ground. The doctor, quite ex- hausted, stayed there ; and, deluded into believing that, after so doughty a performance, we would be allowed a cessation of toil, took off his hat, and fanned himself. " Rayther a hard customer, that, Peter," observed the Yankee, going up to him : " but it's no use for any on 'em to hang back ; for, I'm dumned if they hain't got to come out, whether or no. Hurrah ! let's get at it agin ! " " Mercy ! " ejaculated the doctor, rising slowly, and turning round. " He'll be the death of us ! " Falling to with our hoes again, we worked singly, or FARMING IN POLYNESIA. 239 together, as occasion required, until " nooning time ' came. The period, so called by the planters, embraced about three hours in the middle of the day ; during which it was so excessively hot, in this still brooding valley, shut out from the Trades, and only open toward the leeward side of the island, that labour in the sun was out of the question. To use a hyperbolical phrase of Shorty's, " It was hot enough to melt the nose h'off a brass monkey." Returning to the house, Shorty, assisted by old Tonoi, cooked the dinner; and, after we had all partaken thereof, both the Cockney and Zeke threw themselves into one of the hammocks, inviting us to occupy the other. Thinking it no bad idea, we did so ; and, after skirmishing with the musquitoes, managed to fall into a doze. As for the planters, more accustomed to " Noon- ing," they, at once, presented a nuptial back to each other; and were soon snoring away at a great rate. Tonoi snoozed on a mat in one corner. At last, we were roused by Zeke's crying out, " Up ! b'ys, up ! rise, and shine ; time to get at it agin ! " Looking at the doctor, I perceived very plainly that he had decided upon something. In a languid voice, he told Zeke, that he was not very well : indeed, that he had not been himself for some time past ; though a little rest, no doubt, would recruit him. The Yankee, thinking from this that our valuable services might be lost to him altogether, were he too hard upon us at the outset, at once begged us both to consult our own feelings, and not exert ourselves for the present, unless we felt like it. Then — without recog- nizing the fact, that my comrade claimed to be actually unwell — he simply suggested, that, since he was so 240 omoo. tired, he had better, perhaps, swing in his hammock for the rest of the day. If agreeable, however, I myself might accompany him upon a little bullock hunting ex- cursion, in the neighbouring hills. In this proposition, I gladly acquiesced ; though Peter, who was a great sportsman, put on a long face. The muskets and am- munition were forthwith got down from overhead ; and, everything being then ready, Zeke cried out, "Tonoi! come ; aramai ! (get up) we want you for pilot. Shorty, my lad, look arter things, you know ; and, if you likes, why, there's them roots in the field yonder." Having thus arranged his domestic affairs to please himself, though little to Shorty's satisfaction I thought, he slung his powder-horn over his shoulder, and we started. Tonoi was at once sent on in advance ; and, leaving the plantation, he struck into a path which led toward the mountains. After hurrying through the thickets for some time, we came out into the sunlight, in an open glade, just under the shadow of the hills. Here, Zeke pointed aloft to a beetling crag, far distant ; where a bullock, with horns thrown back, stood like a statue. CHAPTER LIV. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA. Before we proceed further, a word or two concern- ing these wild cattle, and the way they came on the island. Some fifty years ago, Vancouver left several bullocks, sheep, and goats, at various places in the Society group. WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA. 241 He instructed the natives to look after the animals care- fully ; and by no means to slaughter any, until a con- siderable stock had accumulated. The sheep must have died off ; for I never saw a soli- tary fleece in any part of Polynesia. The pair left were an ill-assorted couple, perhaps ; separated in disgust, and died without issue. As for the goats, occasionally you come across a black, misanthropic ram, nibbling the scant herbage of some height inaccessible to man, in preference to the sweet grasses of the valley below. The goats are not very numerous. The bullocks, coming of a prolific ancestry, are a hearty set, racing over the island of Imeeo in consider- able numbers; though in Tahiti but few of them are seen. At the former place, the original pair must have scampered off to the interior, since it is now so thickly populated by their wild progeny. The herds are the private property of Queen Pomaree ; from whom the planters had obtained permission to shoot for their own use as many as they pleased. The natives stand in great awe of these cattle ; and, for this reason, are excessively timid in crossing the island, preferring rather to sail round to an opposite vil- lage in their canoes. Tonoi abounded in bullock stories ; most of which, by the by, had a spice of the marvellous. The following is one of these. Once upon a time, he was going over the hills with a brother — now no more — when a great bull came bel- lowing out of a wood, and both took to their heels. The old chief sprang into a tree ; his companion, flying in an opposite direction, was pursued, and in the very act of reaching up to a bough, trampled under foot. The un- 242 omoo. happy man was then gored — tossed in the air — and finally run away with on the bull's horns. More dead than alive, Tonoi waited till all was over, and then made the best of his way home. The neighbours, armed with two or three muskets, at once started to recover, if pos- sible, his unfortunate brother's remains. At nightfall, they returned without discovering any trace of him ; but the next morning, Tonoi himself caught a glimpse of a bullock, inarching across the mountain's brow, with a long dark object borne aloft on his horns. Having referred to Vancouver's attempts to colonize the islands with useful quadrupeds, we may as well say something corncerning his success upon Hawaii, one of the largest islands in the whole Polynesian Archipelago ; and which gives the native name to the well-known cluster named by Cook in honour of Lord Sandwich. Hawaii is some one hundred leagues in circuit, and covers an area of over four thousand square miles. Until within a few years past, its interior was almost unknown, even to the inhabitants themselves, who, for ages, had been prevented from wandering thither, by certain strange superstitions. Pele, the terrific goddess of the volcanoes Mauna Roa and Mauna Kea, 1 was sup- posed to guard all the passes to the extensive valleys lying round their base. There are legends of her having chased with streams of fire several impious adventurers. Near Hilo, a jet-black cliff is shown, with the vitreous torrent apparently pouring over into the sea; just as it cooled after one of these supernatural eruptions. To these inland valleys, and the adjoining hillsides, 1 Perhaps the most remarkable volcanoes in the World. For very in- teresting accounts of three adventurous expeditions to their summits (fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea), see Lord Byron's Voy- age of H. B. M. Ship Blonde; Ellis's Journal of a Visit to the Sandwich Islands ; and Wilkes's Narrative of the U. S. Exploring Expedition. WILD CATTLE IN POLYNESIA. 243 which are clothed in the most luxuriant vegetation, Vancouver's bullocks soon wandered ; and, unmolested for a long period, multiplied in vast herds. Some twelve or fifteen years ago, the natives, losing sight of their superstitions, and learning the value of the hides in commerce, began hunting the creatures that wore them ; but being very fearful and awkward in a business so novel, their success was small ; and it was not until the arrival of a party of Spanish hunters, men regularly trained to their calling upon the plains of Cali- fornia, that the work of slaughter was fairly begun. The Spaniards were showy fellows, tricked out in gay blankets, leggings worked with porcupine quills, and jingling spurs. Mounted upon trained Indian mares, these heroes pursued their prey up to the very base of the burning mountains ; making the prof oundest solitudes ring with their shouts, and flinging the lasso under the very nose of the vixen goddess Pele. Hilo, a village upon the coast, was their place of resort ; and thither flocked roving whites from all the islands of the group. As pupils of the dashing Spaniards, many of these dissi- pated fellows, quaffing too freely of the stirrup-cup, and riding headlong after the herds, when they reeled in the saddle, were unhorsed and killed. This was about the year 1835, when the present king, Kamehameha III., was a lad. With royal impudence, laying claim to the sole property of the cattle, he was delighted with the idea of receiving one of every two silver dollars paid down for their hides ; so, with no thought for the future, the work of extermination went madly on. In three years' time eighteen thousand bul- locks were slain, almost entirely upon the single island of Hawaii. The herds being thus nearly destroyed, the sagacious 244 omoo. young prince imposed a rigorous " taboo " upon the few surviving cattle, which was to remain in force for ten years. During this period — not yet expired — all hunting is forbidden, unless directly authorized by the king. The massacre of the cattle extended to the hapless goats. In one year, three thousand of their skins were sold to the merchants of Honolulu, fetching a quartilia, or a shilling sterling, apiece. After this digression, it is time to run on after Tonoi and the Yankee. CHAPTER LV. A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE. At the foot of the mountain, a steep path went up among rocks and clefts, mantled with verdure. Here and there were green gulfs, down which it made one giddy to peep. At last we gained an overhanging, wooded shelf of land which crowned the heights ; and along this, the path, well shaded, ran like a gallery. In every direction, the scenery was enchanting. There was a low, rustling breeze ; and below, in the vale, the leaves were quivering ; the sea lay, blue and serene, in the distance ; and inland the surface swelled up, ridge after ridge, and peak upon peak, all bathed in the Indian haze of the tropics, and dreamy to look upon. Still val- leys, leagues away, reposed in the deep shadows of the mountains ; and here and there, waterfalls lifted up their voices in the solitude. High above all, and central, the " Marling-spike " lifted its finger. Upon the hillsides, >l I saluted him with a charge as he disappeared." —Page 245. A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE. 245 small groups of bullocks were seen ; some quietly brows- ing ; others slowly winding into the valleys. We went on, directing our course for a slope of the hills, a mile or two further, where the nearest bullocks were seen. We were cautious in keeping to windward of them ; their sense of smell and hearing being, like those of all wild creatures, exceedingly acute. As there was no knowing that we might not surprise some other kind of game in the coverts through which we were passing, we crept along warily. The wild hogs of the island are uncommonly fierce ; and as they often attack the natives, I could not help following Tonoi's example of once in a while peeping in under the foliage. Frequent retrospective glances, also, served to assure me that our retreat was not cut off. As we rounded a clump of bushes, a noise behind them, like the crackling of dry branches, broke the stillness. In an instant Tonoi's hand was on a bough, ready for a spring, and Zeke's finger touched the trigger of his piece. Again the stillness was broken ; and thinking it high time to get ready, I brought my musket to my shoul- der. "Look sharp!" cried the Yankee; and dropping on one knee, he brushed the twigs aside. Presently, off went his piece ; and with a wild snort, a black, bristling boar — his cherry red lip curled up by two glittering tusks — dashed, unharmed, across the path, and crashed through the opposite thicket. I saluted him with a charge as he disappeared ; but not the slightest notice was taken of the civility. By this time Tonoi, the illustrious descendant of the Bishops of Imeeo, was twenty feet from the ground. 246 OMOO. " Aramai ! come down, you old fool ! " cried the Yankee ; " the pesky critter's on t'other side of the island afore this. " I rayther guess," he continued, as we began reload- ing, " that we've spoiled sport by firing at that ere 'tarnal hog. Them bullocks heard the racket, and is flinging their tails about now on the keen jump. Quick, Paul, and let's climb that rock yonder, and see if so be there's any in sight." But none were to be seen, except at such a distance that they looked like ants. As evening was now at hand, my companion proposed our returning home forthwith ; and then, after a sound night's rest, starting in the morning upon a good day's hunt with the whole force of the plantation. Following another path, in descending into the valley, we passed through some nobly wooded land on the face of the mountain. One variety of tree particularly attracted my attention. The dark mossy stem, over seventy feet high, was per- fectly branchless for many feet above the ground, when it shot out in broad boughs laden with lustrous leaves of the deepest green. And all round the lower part of the trunk, thin, slab-like buttresses of bark, perfectly smooth, and radiating from a common centre, projected along the ground for at least two yards. From below, these nat- ural props tapered upward until gradually blended with the trunk itself. There were signs of the wild cattle having sheltered themselves behind them. Zeke called this the canoe-tree ; as in old times it supplied the navies of the kings of Tahiti. For canoe-building the wood is still used. Being extremely dense, and impervious to worms, it is very durable. Emerging from the forest, when half-way down the A HUNTING RAMBLE WITH ZEKE. 247 hillside, we came upon an open space, covered with ferns and grass, over which a few lonely trees were casting long shadows in the setting sun. Here, a piece of ground some hundred feet square, covered with weeds and bram- bles, and sounding hollow to the tread, was enclosed by a ruinous wall of stones. Tonoi said it was an almost forgotten burial-place, of great antiquity, where no one had been interred since the islanders had been Christians. Sealed up in dry, deep vaults, many a dead heathen was lying here. Curious to prove the old man's statement, I was anxious to get a peep at the catacombs ; but, hermetically overgrown with vegetation as they were, no aperture was visible. Before gaining the level of the valley, we passed by the site of a village, near a watercourse, long since de- serted. There was nothing but stone walls, and rude dismantled foundations of houses, constructed of the same material. Large trees and brushwood were grow- ing rankly among them. I asked Tonoi how long it was since any one had lived here. " Me, tamaree (boy) — plenty kanaka (men) Martair." he replied. " Now, only poor pehe kanaka (fishermen) left — me born here." Going down the valley, vegetation of every kind pre- sented a different aspect from that of the high land. Chief among the trees of the plain on this island, is the Ati, large and lofty, with a massive trunk, and broad, laurel-shaped leaves. The wood is splendid. In Tahiti, I was shown a narrow, polished plank, fit to make a cabinet for a king. Taken from the heart of the tree, it was of a deep, rich scarlet, traced with yellow veins, and in some places clouded with hazel. In the same grove with the regal Ati you may see the 248 omoo. beautiful (lowering Hotoo ; its pyramid of shining leaves diversified with numberless small, white blossoms. Planted with trees as the valley is, almost throughout its entire length, I was astonished to observe so very few which were useful to the natives : not one in a hun- dred was a cocoa-nut or bread-fruit tree. But here Tonoi again enlightened me. In the san- guinary religious hostilities which ensued upon the con- version to Christianity of the first Pomaree, a war party from Tahiti destroyed (by girdling the bark) entire groves of these invaluable trees. For some time after- ward, they stood stark and leafless in the sun ; sad monu- ments of the fate which befell the inhabitants of the valley. CHAPTER LVI. MUSQUITOES. The night following the hunting trip, Long Ghost and myself, after a valiant defence, had to fly the house on account of the musquitoes. And here I cannot avoid relating a story, rife among the natives, concerning the manner in which these in- sects were introduced upon the island. Some years previous, a whaling captain, touching at an adjoining bay, got into difficulty with its inhabitants, and at last carried his complaint before one of the native tribunals ; but receiving no satisfaction, and deeming himself aggrieved, he resolved upon taking signal re- venge. One night, he towed a rotten old water-cask ashore, and left it in a neglected Taro patch, where MUSQUITOES. 249 the ground was warm and moist. Hence the musqui- toes. I tried my best to learn the name of this man : and hereby do what I can to hand it down to posterity. It was Coleman — Nathan Coleman. The ship belonged to Nantucket. When tormented by the musquitoes, I found much relief in coupling the word " Coleman " with another of one syllable, and pronouncing them together energeti- cally. The doctor suggested a walk to the beach, where there was a long, low shed tumbling to pieces, but open length- wise to a current of air which he thought might keep off the musquitoes. So thither we went. The ruin partially sheltered a relic of times gone by, which, a few days after, we examined with much curi- osity. It was an old war-canoe, crumbling to dust. Being supported by the same rude blocks upon which, apparently, it had years before been hollowed out, in all probability it had never been afloat. Outside, it seemed originally stained of a green colour which, here and there, was now changed into a dingy purple. The prow terminated in a high, blunt beak; both sides were covered with carving; and upon the stern was something which Long Ghost maintained to be the arms of the royal House of Pomaree. The device had an heraldic look, certainly — being two sharks with the talons of hawks clawing a knot left projecting from the wood. The canoe was at least forty feet long, about two wide, and four deep. The upper part — consisting of narrow planks laced together with cords of sinnate — had in many places fallen off, and lay decaying upon the ground. StilX there were ample accommodations left for sleeping ; 250 omoo. and in we sprang — the doctor into the bow, and I into the stern. I soon fell asleep; but waking suddenly, cramped in every joint from my constrained posture, I thought, for an instant, that I must have been prema- turely screwed down in my coffin. Presenting my compliments to Long Ghost, I asked how it fared with him. " Bad enough," he replied, as he tossed about in the outlandish rubbish lying in the bottom of our couch. " Pah ! how those old mats smell ! " As he continued talking in this exciting strain for some time, I at last made no reply, having resumed cer- tain mathematical reveries to induce repose. But find- ing the multiplication-table of no avail, I summoned up a greyish image of chaos in a sort of sliding fluidity, and was just falling into a nap on the strength of it, when I heard a solitary and distinct buzz. The hour of my calamity was at hand. One blended hum, the creature darted into the canoe like a small sword-fish ; and I out of it. Upon getting into the open air, to my surprise, there was Long Ghost, fanning himself wildly with an old paddle. He had just made a noiseless escape from a swarm, which had attacked his own end of the canoe. It was now proposed to try the water ; so a small fish- ing canoe, hauled up near by, was quickly launched ; and paddling a good distance off, we dropped over- board the native contrivance for an anchor — a heavy stone, attached to a cable of braided bark. At this part of the island, the encircling reef was close to the shore, leaving the water within smooth, and extremely shallow. It was a blessed thought ! We knew nothing till sun- rise, when the motion of our aquatic cot awakened us. THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 251 I looked up, and beheld Zeke wading toward the shore, and towing us after him by the bark cable. Pointing to the reef, he told us we had had a narrow escape. It was true enough ; the water-sprites had rolled our stone out of its noose, and we had floated away. CHAPTER LVII. THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. Fair dawned, over the hills of Martair, the jocund morning of our hunt. Everything had been prepared for it overnight ; and, when we arrived at the house, a good breakfast was spread by Shorty : and old Tonoi was bustling about like an innkeeper. Several of his men, also, were in attendance, to accompany us with calabashes of food ; and, in case we met with any success, to officiate as bearers of burdens, on our return. Apprised, the evening previous, of the meditated sport, the doctor had announced his willingness to take part therein. Now, subsequent events made us regard this expedi- tion as a shrewd device of the Yankee's. Once get us off on a pleasure trip, and with what face could we after- wards refuse to work? Besides, he enjoyed all the credit of giving us a holiday. Nor did he omit assur- ing us, that, work or play, our wages were all the while running on. A dilapidated old musket of Tonoi's was borrowed for the doctor. It was exceedingly short and heavy, with a clumsy lock, which required a strong finger to pull the 252^' omoo. trigger. On trying the piece, by firing at a mark, Long Ghost was satisfied that it could not fail of doing execu- tion : the charge went one way, and he the other. Upon this, he endeavoured to negotiate an exchange of muskets with Shorty ; but the Cockney was proof against his blandishments ; at last he intrusted his weapon to one of the natives to carry for him. Marshalling our forces, we started for the head of the valley ; near which, a path ascended to a range of high land, said to be a favourite resort of the cattle. Shortly after gaining the heights, a small herd, some way off, was perceived entering a wood. We hurried on ; and, dividing our party, went in after them, at four different points; each white man followed by several natives. I soon found myself in a dense covert ; and, after look- ing round, was just emerging into a clear space, when I heard a report, and a bullet knocked the bark from a tree near by. The same instant, there was a trampling and crashing ; and five bullocks, nearly abreast, broke into view across the opening, and plunged right towards the spot where myself and three of the islanders were stand- ing. They were small, black, vicious-looking creatures ; with short, sharp horns, red nostrils, and eyes like coals of fire. On they came — their dark woolly heads hang- ing down. By this time, my island backers were roosting among the trees. Glancing round, for an instant, to discover a retreat in case of emergency, I raised my piece, when a voice cried out, from the wood, "Right between the 'orns, Paul ! right between the 'orns ! " Down went my barrel, in range with a small white tuft on the forehead of the headmost one ; and, letting him have it, I darted THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 253 to one side. As I turned again, the five bullocks shot by like a blast, making the air eddy in their wake. The Yankee now burst into view, and saluted them in flank. Whereupon, the fierce little bull with the tufted forehead flirted his long tail over his buttocks, kicked out with his hind feet, and shot forward a full length. In was nothing but a graze ; and in an instant they were out of sight, the thicket into which they broke rocking overhead, and marking their progress. The action over, the heavy artillery came up, in the person of the Long Doctor, with his blunderbuss. " Where are they ? " he cried, out of breath. " A mile or two hoff, by this time," replied the Cock- ney. u Lord, Paul ! you ought to've sent an 'ail stone into that little black 'un." While excusing my want of skill as well as I could, Zeke, rushing forward, suddenly exclaimed, " Creation ! what are you 'bout there, Peter ? " Peter, incensed at our ill luck, and ignorantly imput- ing it to the cowardice of our native auxiliaries, was bringing his piece to bear upon his trembling squire — the musket carrier — now descending a tree. Pulling trigger, the bullet went high over his head ; and hopping to the ground, bellowing like a calf, the fellow ran away as fast as his heels could carry him. The rest followed us, after this, with fear and trembling.. After forming our line of march anew, we went on for several hours, without catching a glimpse of the game ; the reports of the muskets having been heard at a great distance. At last, we mounted a craggy height, to obtain a wide view of the country. From this place, we beheld three cattle, quietly browsing in a green open- ing of a wood below ; the trees shutting them in all round. 254 omoo. A general re-examination of the muskets now took place, followed by a hasty lunch from the calabashes : we then started. As we descended the mountain-side, the cattle were in plain sight, until we entered the forest, when we lost sight of them for a moment ; but only to see them again, as we crept close up to the spot where they grazed. They were a bull, a cow, and a calf. The cow was lying down in the shade, by the edge of the wood ; the calf sprawling out before her in the grass, licking her lips; while old Taurus himself stood close by, casting a paternal glance at this domestic little scene, and con- jugally elevating his nose in the air. "Now, then," said Zeke, in a whisper, "let's take the poor creeturs, while they are huddled together. Crawl along, b'ys, crawl along. Fire together, mind ; and not till I say the word." We crept np to the very edge of the open ground, and knelt behind a clump of bushes, resting our lev- elled barrels among the branches. The slight rustling was heard. Taurus turned round, dropped his head to the ground, and sent forth a low, sullen bellow ; then snuffed the air. The cow rose on her fore knees, pitched forward alarmedly, and stood upon her legs ; while the calf, with ears pricked, got right underneath her. All three were now grouped, and, in an instant, would be off. " I take the bull," cried our leader ; " fire ! " The calf fell like a clod ; its dam uttered a cry, and thrust her head into the thicket; but she turned, and came moaning up to the lifeless calf, going round and round it, snuffing fiercely with her bleeding nostrils. A crashing in the wood, and a loud roar, announced the flying bull. THE SECOND HUNT IN THE MOUNTAINS. 255 Soon, another shot was fired, and the cow fell. Leav- ing some of the natives to look after the dead cattle, the rest of us hurried on after the bull ; his dreadful bellow- ings guiding us to the spot where he lay. Wounded in the shoulder, in his fright and agony he had bounded into the wood ; but when we came up to him, he had sunk to the earth in a green hollow, thrusting his black muzzle into a pool of his own blood, and tossing it over his hide in clots. The Yankee brought his piece to a rest ; and, the next instant, the wild brute sprang into the air, and with his fore legs crouching under him, fell dead. Our island friends were now in high spirits ; all cour- age and alacrity. Old Tonoi thought nothing of taking poor Taurus himself by the horns, and peering into his glazed eyes. Our ship knives were at once in request ; and, skin- ning the cattle, we hung them high up by cords of bark from the boughs of a tree. Withdrawing into a covert, we there waited for the wild hogs ; which, according to Zeke, would soon make their appearance, lured by the smell of blood. Presently, we heard them coming, in two or three different directions ; and, in a moment, they were tearing the offal to pieces. As only one shot at these creatures could be relied on, we intended firing simultaneously ; but, some how or other, the doctor's piece went off by itself, and one of the hogs dropped. The others then breaking into the thicket, the rest of us sprang after them, resolved to have another shot at all hazards. The Cockney darted among some bushes ; and, a few moments after, we heard the report of his musket, fol- lowed by a quick cry. On running up, we saw our com- rade doing battle with a young devil of a boar, as black 256 omoo. as night, whose snout had been partly torn away. Firing when the game was in full career, and coming directly toward him, Shorty had been assailed by the enraged brute ; it was now crunching the breech of the musket, with which he had tried to club it ; Shorty holding fast to the barrel, and fingering his waist for a knife. Being in advance of the others, I clapped my gun to the boar's head, and so put an end to the contest. Evening now coming on, we set to work loading our carriers. The cattle were so small, that a stout native could walk off with an entire quarter ; brushing through thickets, and descending rocks without an apparent effort : though, to tell the truth, no white man present could have done the thing with any ease. As for the wild hogs, none of the islanders could be induced to carry Shorty's ; some invincible superstition being connected with its black colour. We were, therefore, obliged to leave it. The other, a spotted one, being slung by green thongs to a pole, was marched off with by two young natives. With our bearers of burdens ahead, we then com- menced our return down the valley. Half-way home, darkness overtook us in the woods ; and torches became necessary. We stopped, and made them of dry palm branches ; and then, sending two lads on in advance, for the purpose of gathering fuel to feed the flambeaux, we continued our journey. It was a wild sight. The torches, waved aloft, flashed through the forest ; and, where the ground admitted, the islanders went along on a brisk trot, notwithstand- ing they bent forward under their loads. Their naked backs were stained with blood ; and occasionally, run- ning by each other, they raised wild cries, which startled the hillsides. THE HUNTING-FEAST. 257 CHAPTER LVIII. THE HUNTING-FEAST ; AND A VISIT TO AEEEHITOO. Two bullocks and a boar ! No bad trophies of our day's sport. So by torchlight we marched into the plan- tation, the wild hog rocking from its pole, and the doc- tor singing an old hunting-song — Tally-ho ! the chorus of which swelled high above the yells of the natives. We resolved to make a night of it. Kindling a great fire just outside the dwelling, and hanging one of the heifer's quarters from a limb of the banian-tree, every one was at liberty to cut and broil for himself. Baskets of roasted bread-fruit, and plenty of taro pudding; bunches of bananas and young cocoa-nuts had also been provided by the natives against our return. The fire burned bravely, keeping off the mosquitoes, and making every man's face glow like a beaker of port. The meat had the true wild-game flavour, not at all impaired by our famous appetites, and a couple of flasks of white brandy, which Zeke, producing from his secret store, circulated freely. There was no end to my long comrade's spirits. After telling his stories, and singing his songs, he sprang to his feet, clasped a young damsel of the grove round the waist, and waltzed over the grass with her. But there's no telling all the pranks he played that night. The natives, who delight in a wag, emphatically pronounced him " maitai." It was long after midnight ere we broke up ; but when the rest had retired, Zeke, with the true thrift of a Yankee, salted down what was left of the meat. 258 omoo. The next day was Sunday ; and, at my request, Shorty accompanied me to Afrehitoo — a neighbouring bay, and the seat of a mission, almost directly opposite Papeetee. In Afrehitoo is a large church and school- house, both quite dilapidated ; and planted amid shrub- bery on a fine knoll, stands a very tasteful cottage, com- manding a view across the channel. In passing, I caught sight of a graceful calico skirt disappearing from the piazza through a doorway. The place was the resi- dence of the missionary. A trim little sail-boat was dancing out at her moor- ings, a few yards from the beach. Straggling over the low lands in the vicinity were several native huts — untidy enough — but much better every way than most of those in Tahiti. We attended service at the church, where we found but a small congregation ; and after what I had seen in Papeetee, nothing very interesting took place. But the audience had a curious, fidgety look, which I knew not how to account for, until we ascertained that a sermon with the eighth commandment for a text was being preached. It seemed that there lived an Englishman in the dis- trict, who, like our friends, the planters, was cultivating Tombez potatoes for the Papeetee market. In spite of all his precautions, the natives were in the habit of making nocturnal forays into his enclosure, and carrying off the potatoes. One night he fired a fowl- ing-piece, charged with pepper and salt, at several shadows which he discovered stealing across his prem- ises. They fled. But it was like seasoning anything else : the knaves stole again with a greater relish than ever ; and the very next night, he caught a party in the THE HUNTING-FEAST. 259 act of roasting a basketful of potatoes under his own cooking-shed. At last, he stated his grievances to the missionary ; who, for the benefit of his congregation, preached the sermon we heard. Now, there were no thieves in Martair; but then the people of the valley were bribed to be honest. It was a regular business transaction between them and the planters. In consideration of so many potatoes " to them in hand, duly paid," they were to abstain from all depredations upon the plantation. Another security against roguery was the permanent residence upon the premises of their chief, Tonoi. On our return to Martair, in the afternoon, we found the doctor and Zeke making themselves comfortable. The latter was reclining on the ground, pipe in mouth, watching the doctor, who, sitting like a Turk, before a large iron kettle, was slicing potatoes and Indian tur- nip, and now and then shattering splinters from a bone ; all of which, by turns, were thrown into the pot. He was making what he called " bullock broth." In gastronomic affairs, my friend was something of an artist ; and, by way of improving his knowledge, did nothing the rest of the day but practise in what might be called Experimental Cookery; broiling and grill- ing, and devilling slices of meat, and subjecting them to all sorts of igneous operations. It was the first fresh beef that either of us had tasted in more than a year. " Oh, ye'll pick up arter a while, Peter," observed Zeke, toward night, as Long Ghost was turning a great rib over the coals — " what d'ye think, Paul ? " " He'll get along, I dare say," replied I; "he only wants to get those cheeks of his tanned." To tell the 260 omoo. truth, I was not a little pleased to see the doctor's reputation as an invalid fading away so fast ; especially, as on the strength of his being one, he had promised to have such easy times of it, and very likely, too, at my expense. CHAPTER LIX. THE MURPHIES. Dozing in our canoe the next morning about day- break, we were wakened by Zeke's hailing us loudly from the beach. Upon paddling up, he told us that a canoe had arrived overnight, from Papeetee, with an order from a ship lying there, for a supply of his potatoes ; and as they must be on board the vessel by noon, he wanted us to assist in bringing them down to his sail-boat. My long comrade was one of those, who, from always thrusting forth the wrong foot foremost when they rise, or committing some other indiscretion of the limbs, are more or less crabbed or sullen before breakfast. It was in vain, therefore, that the Yankee deplored the urgency of the case, which obliged him to call us up thus early : — the doctor only looked the more glum, and said nothing in reply. At last, by way of getting up a little enthusiasm for the occasion, the Yankee exclaimed quite spiritedly, " What d'ye say, then, b'ys, shall we git at it ? " " Yes, in the devil's name ! " replied the doctor, like a snapping turtle ; and we moved on to the house. Notwithstanding his ungracious answer, he probably THE MURPHIES. 261 thought that after the gastronomic performance of the day previous, it would hardly do to hang back. At the house, we found Shorty ready with the hoes ; and we at once repaired to the farther side of the enclosure, where the potatoes had yet to be taken out of the ground. The rich, tawny soil seemed specially adapted to the crop ; the great yellow murphies rolling out of the hills like eggs from a nest. My comrade really surprised me by the zeal with which he applied himself to his hoe. For my own part, exhilarated by the cool breath of the morning, I worked away like a good fellow. As for Zeke and the Cockney, they seemed mightily pleased at this evidence of our willingness to exert ourselves. It was not long ere all the potatoes were turned out ; and then came the worst of it : they were to be lugged down to the beach, a distance of at least a quarter of a mile. And there being no such thing as a barrow or cart on the island, there was nothing for it but spinal marrows and broad shoulders. Well knowing that this part of the business would be anything but agreeable, Zeke did his best to put as encouraging a face upon it as possible ; and giving us no time to indulge in desponding thoughts, gleefully directed our attention to a pile of rude baskets — made of stout stalks — which had been provided for the occasion. So, without more ado, we helped ourselves from the heap ; and soon we were all four staggering along under our loads. The first trip down, we arrived at the beach together, Zeke's enthusiastic cries proving irresistible. A trip or two more, however, and my shoulders began to grate in their sockets ; while the doctor's tall figure acquired an obvious stoop. Presently, we both threw down our baskets, protesting we could stand it no longer. But 262 omoo. our employers, bent, as it were, upon getting the work out of us by a silent appeal to our moral sense, toiled away without pretending to notice us. It was as much as to say, " There, men, we've been boarding and lodging ye for the last three days ; and yesterday ye did nothing earthly but eat ; so stand by now, and look at us work- ing, if ye dare." Thus driven to it, then, we resumed our employment. Yet, in spite of all we could do, we lagged behind Zeke and Shorty, who, breathing hard, and perspiring at every pore, toiled away without pause or cessation. I almost wickedly wished that they would load themselves down with one potato too many. Gasping as I was with my own hamper, I could not, for the life of me, help laughing at Long Ghost. There he went — his long neck thrust forward, his arms twisted behind him to form a shelf for his basket to rest on ; and his stilts of legs every once in a while giving way under him, as if his knee-joints slipped either way. " There ! I carry no more ! " he exclaimed all at once, flinging his potatoes into the boat, where the Yankee was just then stowing them away. " Oh, then," said Zeke, quite briskly, " I guess you and Paul had better try the ' barrel-machine ' — come along, I'll fix ye out in no time ; " and, so saying, he waded ashore, and hurried back to the house, bidding us follow. Wondering what upon earth the " barrel-machine " could be, and rather suspicious of it, we limped after. On arriving at the house, we found him getting ready a sort of sedan-chair. It was nothing more than an old barrel, suspended by a rope from the middle of a stout oar. Quite an ingenious contrivance of the Yankee's ; THE MURPHIES. 263 and his proposed arrangement with regard to mine and the doctor's shoulders, was equally so. " There now ! " said he, when everything was ready, " there's no back-breaking about this ; you can stand right up under it, you see : jist try it once ; " and he politely rested the blade of the oar on my comrade's right shoulder, and the other end on mine, leaving the barrel between us. " Jist the thing ! " he added, standing off admiringly, while we remained in this interesting attitude. There was no help for us ; with broken hearts and backs we trudged back to the field ; the doctor all the while saying masses. Upon starting with the loaded barrel, for a few paces we got along pretty well, and were constrained to think the idea not a bad one. But we did not long think so. In less than five minutes we came to a dead halt, the springing and buckling of the clumsy oar being almost unendurable. " Let's shift ends," cried the doctor, who did not quite relish the blade of the stick, which was cutting into the blade of his shoulder. A last, by stages short and frequent, we managed to shamble down to the beach, where we again dumped our cargo, in something of a pet. " Why not make the natives help ? " asked Long Ghost, rubbing his shoulder. " Natives be dumned ! " said the Yankee, " twenty on 'em ain't worth one white man. They never was meant to work any, them chaps ; and they knows it too, for dumned little work any on 'em ever does." But notwithstanding this abuse, Zeke was at last obliged to press a few of the bipeds into service. " Aramai ! " (come here) he shouted to several, who, 264 omoo. reclining on a bank, had hitherto been critical observers of our proceedings ; and, among other things, had been particularly amused by the performance with the sedan- chair. After making these fellows load their baskets to- gether, the Yankee filled his own, and then drove them before him, down to the beach. Probably he had seen the herds of panniered mules, driven in this way by mounted Indians, along the great road from Callao to Lima. The boat at last loaded, the Yankee taking with him a couple of natives, at once hoisted sail, and stood across the channel for Papeetee. The next morning at breakfast, old Tonoi ran in, and told us that the voyagers were returning. We hurried down to the beach, and saw the boat gliding toward us, with a dozing islander at the helm, and Zeke standing up in the bows, jingling a small bag of silver, the proceeds of his cargo. CHAPTER LX. WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR. Several quiet days now passed away, during which we just worked sufficiently to sharpen our appetites ; the planters leniently exempting us from any severe toil. Their desire to retain us became more and more evi- dent ; which was not to be wondered at ; for, beside esteeming us from the beginning a couple of civil, good- natured fellows, who would soon become quite at home WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MART AIR. 265 with them, they were not slow in perceiving that we were far different from the common run of rovers ; and that our society was both entertaining and instructive to a couple of solitary, illiterate men, like themselves. In a literary point of view, indeed, they soon regarded us with emotions of envy and wonder ; and the doctor was considered nothing short of a prodigy. The Cock- ney found out, that he (the doctor) could read a book upside down, without even so much as spelling the big words beforehand ; and the Yankee, in the twinkling of an eye, received from him the sum total of several arith- metical items, stated aloud, with the view of testing the extent of his mathematical lore. Then, frequently, in discoursing upon men and things, my long comrade employed such imposing phrases, that, upon one occasion, they actually remained uncovered while he talked. In short, their favourable opinion of Long Ghost in particular, rose higher and higher every day ; and they began to indulge in all manner of dreams concerning the advantages to be derived from employing so learned a labourer. Among other projects revealed, was that of building a small craft of some forty tons, for the purpose of trading among the neighbouring islands. With a na- tive crew, we would then take turns cruising over the tranquil Pacific ; touching here and there, as caprice sug- gested, and collecting romantic articles of commerce ; — biche-de-mer, the pearl-oyster, arrow-root, ambergris, sandal-wood, cocoa-nut oil, and edible birds' nests. This South Sea yachting was delightful to think of ; and straightway the doctor announced his willingness to navigate the future schooner clear of all shoals and reefs whatsoever. His impudence was audacious. He en- larged upon the science of navigation ; treated us to a 266 omoo. dissertation on Mercator's Sailing, and the Azimuth com- pass ; and went into an inexplicable explanation of the Lord only knows what plan of his, for infallibly settling the longitude. Whenever my comrade thus gave the reins to his fine fancy, it was a treat to listen, and therefore I never in- terfered ; but, with the planters, sat in mute admiration before him. This apparent self-abasement on my part must have been considered as truly indicative of our re- spective merits ; for, to my no small concern, I quickly perceived, that in the estimate formed of us, Long Ghost began to be rated far above myself. For aught I knew, indeed, he might have privately thrown out a hint con- cerning the difference in our respective stations aboard the Julia ; or else, the planters must have considered him some illustrious individual, for certain inscrutable reasons going incog. With this idea of him, his undis- guised disinclination for work became venial ; and en- tertaining such views of extending their business, they counted more upon his ultimate value to them as a man of science than as a mere ditcher. Nor did the humourous doctor forbear to foster an opinion every way so advantageous to himself ; at times for the sake of the joke, assuming airs of superiority over myself, which, though laughable enough, were sometimes annoying. To tell the plain truth, things at last came to such a pass, that I told him, up and down, that I had no notion to put up with his pretensions ; if he were going to play the gentleman, I was going to follow suit; and then there would quickly be an explosion. At this he laughed heartily ; and after some mirthful chat, we resolved upon leaving the valley, as soon as we could do so with a proper regard to politeness. / WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR. 267 At supper, therefore, the same evening, the doctor hinted at our intention. Though much surprised and vexed, Zeke moved not a muscle. "Peter," said he at last — very gravely — and after mature deliberation," would you like to do the cooking t It's easy work ; and you needn't do anything else. Paul's heartier ; he can work in the field when it suits him ; and before long, we'll have ye at something more agreeable : — won't we, Shorty ? " Shorty assented. Doubtless, the proposed arrangement was a snug one ; especially the sinecure for the doctor ; but I by no means relished the functions allotted to myself — they were too indefinite. Nothing final, however, was agreed upon ; — our intention to leave was revealed, and that was enough for the present. But, as we said nothing further about going, the Yankee must have concluded that we might yet be induced to remain. He redoubled his endeavours to make us contented. It was during this state of affairs, that one morning, before breakfast, we were set to weeding in a potato- patch ; and the planters being engaged at the house, we were left to ourselves. Now, though the pulling of weeds was considered by our employers an easy occupation (for which reason, they had assigned it to us), and although, as a garden recreation, it may be pleasant enough for those who like it — still, long persisted in, the business becomes exces- sively irksome. Nevertheless, we toiled away for some time, until the doctor, who, from his height, was obliged to stoop at a very acute angle, suddenly sprang upright ; and, with one hand propping his spinal column, exclaimed, " Oh, that one's joints were but provided with holes to drop a little oil through ! " 268 omoo. Vain as the aspiration was for this proposed improve- ment upon our species, I cordially responded thereto ; for every vertebra in my spine was articulating its sympathy. Presently, the sun rose over the mountains, inducing that deadly morning languour so fatal to early exertion in a warm climate. We could stand it no longer ; but, shouldering our hoes, moved on to the house, resolved to impose no more upon the good-nature of the planters, by continuing one moment longer in an occupation so extremely uncongenial. We freely told them so. Zeke was exceedingly hurt, and said everything he could think of to alter our determination ; but, finding all unavailing, he very hospitably urged us not to be in any hurry about leav- ing ; for we might stay with him as guests until we had time to decide upon our future movements. We thanked him sincerely ; but replied, that the following morning we must turn our backs upon the hills of Martair. CHAPTER LXI. PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY. During the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking over our plans. The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inland village, standing upon the banks of a consider- able lake of the same name, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo you went to this place by a lonely pathway, leading through the wildest scenery PliEPARING FOB THE JOURNEY. 269 in the world. Much, too, we had heard concerning the lake itself, which abounded in such delicious fish, that, in former times, angling parties occasionally came over to it from Papeetee. Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands, and in their greatest perfection. The " Ve," or Brazilian plum, here attained the size of an orange ; and the gorgeous "Arheea," or red apple of Tahiti, blushed with deeper dyes than in any of the seaward valleys. Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and unsophisticated women in the entire Society group. In short, the village was so remote from the coast, and had been so much less affected by recent changes than other places, that, in most things, Tahitian life was here seen as formerly existing in the days of young Otoo, the boy- king, in Cook's time. After obtaining from the planters all the information which was needed, we decided upon penetrating to the village ; and after a temporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and journey round to Taloo, a harbour on the opposite side of the island. We at once put ourselves in travelling trim. Just previous to leaving Tahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two suits (frock and trousers, both much the worse for wear), I had quilted them together for mutual preservation (after a fashion peculiar to sailors) ; en- grafting a red frock upon a blue one, and producing thereby a choice variety in the way of clothing. This was the extent of my wardrobe. Nor was the doctor by any means better off. His improvidence had at last driven him to don the nautical garb ; but, by this time, his frock — a light cotton one — had almost given out, and he had nothing to replace it. Shorty very generously offered him one which was a little less lagged ; but the 270 omoo. alms was proudly refused ; Long Ghost preferring to as- sume the ancient costume of Tahiti — the " Roora." This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom met with ; but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he kept as an heirloom. It was a cloak, or mantle of yellow tappa, precisely similar to the "poncho" worn by the South American Spaniards. The head be- ing slipped through a slit in the middle, the robe hangs about the person in ample drapery. Tonoi obtained suf- ficient coarse brown tappa to make a short mantle of this description ; and in five minutes the doctor was equipped. Zeke, eying his toga critically, reminded its proprietor that there were many streams to ford, and pre- cipices to scale, between Martair and Tamai ; and if he travelled in petticoats, he had better hold them up. Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the free-and-easy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes ; mine had been tossed overboard the day we met the Trades ; and except in one or two tramps ashore, I had never worn any since. In Martair, they would have been desirable ; but none were to be had. For the expedition we meditated, however, they were indispensable. Zeke, being the owner of a pair of huge, dilapidated boots, hanging from a rafter-like saddle-bag, the doctor suc- ceeded in exchanging for them a case-knife, the last val- uable article in his possession. For myself, I made sandals from a bullock's hide, such as are worn by the Indians in California. They are made in a minute ; the sole, rudely fashioned to the foot, being confined across the instep by three straps of leather. Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was a brave old Panama hat, made of grass, almost as fine as threads of silk ; and so elastic, that, upon rolling it up, it sprang into perfect shape again, Set off by the PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY. 271 jaunty slouch of this Spanish sombrero, Doctor Long Ghost, in this and his Koora, looked like a mendicant grandee. Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less distinguished. The way I came to wear it was this. My hat having been knocked overboard, a few days be- fore reaching Papeetee, I was obliged to mount an abominable wad of parti-coloured worsted — what sailors call a Scotch cap. Every one knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonian head-dress crowned my temples so effectually, that the confined atmosphere en- gendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I tried to ventilate the cap: every gash made seemed to heal whole in no time. Then such a continual chafing as it kept up in a hot sun. Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend, prevailed upon me to bestow it upon him. I did so ; hinting that a good boiling might restore the origi- nal brilliancy of the colours. It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new Regatta frock of the doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and winding it round my head in folds, I allowed the sleeves to droop behind — thus forming a good de- fence against the sun, though in a shower it was best off. The pendent sleeves adding much to the effect, the doctor always called me the Bashaw with Two Tails. Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai ; in whose green saloons, we counted upon creating no small sen- sation. 272 omoo. CHAPTER LXIL TAMAI. Long before sunrise the next morning, my sandals were laced on, and the doctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots. Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the planters wished us a pleasant journey ; and on part- ing, very generously presented us with a pound or two of what sailors call "plug" tobacco; telling us to cut it up into small change ; the Virginian weed being the principal circulating medium on the island. Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four leagues distant ; so making allowances for a wild road, a few hours to rest at noon, and our determination to take the journey leisurely, we counted upon reaching the shores of the lake some time in the flush of the evening. For several hours we went on slowly through wood and ravine, and over hill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional herds of wild cattle, and often resting ; until we found ourselves, about noon, in the very heart of the island. It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which we at last descended with a bound. The place was gushing with a hundred springs, and shaded over with great solemn trees, on whose mossy boles the moisture stood in beads. Strange to say, no traces of the bullocks ever having been here were revealed. Nor was there a sound to be heard, nor a bird to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring the leaves. The utter solitude TAMAL 273 and silence were oppressive; and after peering about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark, motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended a steep mountain opposite. Midway up we rested where the earth had gathered about the roots of three palms, and thus formed a pleas- ant lounge, from which we looked down upon the hollow, now one dark-green tuft of woodland at our feet. Here we brought forth a small calabash of "poee" a parting present from Tonoi. After eating heartily, we obtained fire by two sticks, and throwing ourselves back, puffed forth our fatigue in wreaths of smoke. At last we fell asleep ; nor did we waken till the sun had sunk so low, that its rays darted in upon us under the foliage. Starting up, we then continued our journey ; and as we gained the mountain top — there, to our surprise, lay the lake and village of Tamai. We had thought it a good league off. Where we stood, the yellow sunset was still lingering; but over the valley below, long shadows were stealing — the rippling green lake reflect- ing the houses and trees just as they stood along its banks. Several small canoes, moored here and there to posts in the water, were dancing upon the waves ; and one solitary fisherman was -paddling over to a grassy point. In front of the houses, groups of natives were seen ; some thrown at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaning against the bamboos. With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers soon hurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near, they gathered round, all curiosity to know what brought the " karhowries " into their quiet country. The doctor contriving to make them under- 274 omoo. stand the purely social object of our visit, they gave us a true Tahitian welcome ; pointing into their dwellings, and saying they were ours as long as we chose to re- main. We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men and women, so much more healthful than the inhabitants of the bays. As for the young girls, they were more retiring and modest, more tidy in their dress, and far fresher and more beautiful than the damsels of the coast. A thousand pities, thought I, that they should bury their charms in this nook of a valley. That night we abode in the house of Rartoo, a hospit- able old chief. It was right on the shore of the lake ; and at supper, we looked out through a rustling screen of foliage upon the surface of the starlit water. The next day we rambled about, and found a happy lit- tle community, comparatively free from many deplorable evils to which the rest of their countrymen are subject. Their time, too, was more occupied. To my sur- prise, the manufacture of tappa was going on in several buildings. European calicoes were seldom seen, and not many articles of foreign origin of any descrip- tion. The people of Tamai were nominally Christians; but being so remote from ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat lightly upon them. We had been told, even, that many heathenish games and dances still secretly lingered in their valley. Now the prospect of seeing an old-fashioned "hevar," or Tahitian reel, was one of the inducements which brought us here ; and so, finding Rartoo rather libera 1 in his religious ideas, we disclosed our desire. At first, he demurred; and shrugging his shoulders like a French- A DANCE IN THE VALLEY. 275 man, declared it could not be brought about — was a dan- gerous matter to attempt, and might bring all concerned into trouble. But we overcame all this, convinced him that the thing could be done, and a " hevar," a genuine pagan fandango, was arranged for that very night. CHAPTER LXIII. A DANCE IN THE VALLEY. There were some ill-natured people — tell-tales — it seemed, in Tamai ; and hence there was a deal of mystery about getting up the dance. An hour or two before midnight, Rartoo entered the house, and, throwing robes of tappa over us, bade us follow at a distance behind him ; and, until out of the village, hood our faces. Keenly alive to the adventure, we obeyed. At last, after taking a wide circuit, we came out upon the farthest shore of the lake. It was a wide, dewy space ; lighted up by a full moon, and car- peted with a minute species of fern, growing closely together. It swept right down to the water, showing the village opposite, glistening among the groves. Near the trees, on one side of the clear space, was a ruinous pile of stones, many rods in extent ; upon which had formerly stood a temple of Oro. At present, there was nothing but a rude hut, planted on the lowermost terrace. It seemed to have been used as a "tappa herree ; " or house for making the native cloth. Here we saw lights gleaming from between the bam- boos, and casting long, rod-like shadows upon the ground 276 omoo. without. Voices also were heard. We went up, and had a peep at the dancers, who were getting ready for the ballet. They were some twenty in number ; waited upon by hideous old crones, who might have been du- ennas. Long Ghost proposed to send the latter packing ; but Rartoo said it would never do, and so they were per- mitted to remain. We tried to effect an entrance at the door, which was fastened ; but, after a noisy discussion with one of the old witches within, our guide became fidgety, and, at last, told us to desist, or we would spoil all. He then led us off to a distance, to await the performance ; as the girls, he said, did not wish to be recognised. He, furthermore, made us promise to remain where we were, until all was over and the dancers had retired. We waited impatiently ; and at last they came forth. They were arrayed in short tunics of white tappa ; with garlands of flowers on their heads. Following them were the duennas, who remained clustering about the house, while the girls advanced a few paces ; and, in an instant, two of them, taller than their companions, were standing side by side, in the middle of a ring, formed by the clasped hands of the rest. This movement was made in perfect silence. Presently, the two girls join hands over head ; and, crying out, " Ahloo ! ahloo ! " wave them to and fro. Upon which, the ring begins to circle slowly ; the dan- cers moving sideways, with their arms a little drooping. Soon they quicken their pace ; and, at last, fly round and round; bosoms heaving, hair streaming, flowers dropping, and every sparkling eye circling in what seemed a line of light. Meanwhile, the pair within are passing and repassing each other incessantly. Inclining sideways, so that A DANCE IN THE VALLEY. 277 their long hair falls far over, they glide this way and that ; one foot continually in the air, and their fingers thrown forth, and twirling in the moonbeams. " Ahloo ! ahloo ! " again cry the dance queens ; and, coming together in the middle of the ring, they once more lift up the arch, and stand motionless. u Ahloo ! ahloo ! " Every link of the circle is broken ; and the girls, deeply breathing, stand perfectly still. They pant hard and fast, a moment or two ; and then, just as the deep flush is dying away from their faces, slowly recede, all round; thus enlarging the ring. Again the two leaders wave their hands, when the rest pause ; and now, far apart, stand in the still moon- light, like a circle of fairies. Presently, raising a strange chant, they softly sway themselves, gradually quicken- ing the movement, until at length, for a few passionate moments, with throbbing bosoms, and glowing cheeks, they abandon themselves to all the spirit of the dance, apparently lost to everything around. But soon subsid- ing again into the same languid measure as before, they become motionless ; and then, reeling forward on all sides, their eyes swimming in their heads, join in one wild chorus, and sink into each other's arms. Such is the Lory-Lory, I think they call it ; the dance of the backsliding girls of Tamai. While it was going on, we had as much as we could do to keep the doctor from rushing forward and seizing a partner. They would give us no more " hevars " that night ; and Rartoo fairly dragged us away to a canoe, hauled up on the lake shore ; when we reluctantly embarked, and paddling over to the village, arrived there in time for a good nap before sunrise. The next day, the doctor went about, trying to hunt 278 omoo. up the overnight dancers. He thought to detect them by their late rising ; but never was man more mistaken ; for, on first sallying out, the whole village was asleep, waking up in concert about an hour after. But, in the course of the day, he came across several, whom he at once charged with taking part in the " hevar." There were some prim-looking fellows standing by (visiting elders from Airehitoo, perhaps), and the girls looked embarrassed ; but parried the charge most skilfully. Though soft as doves, in general, the ladies of Tamai are, nevertheless, flavoured with a slight tincture of what we very queerly enough call the "devil;" and they showed it on the present occasion. For when the doctor pressed one rather hard, she all at once turned round upon him, and, giving him a box on the ear, told him to " hanree perrar ! " (be off with himself). CHAPTER LXIV. MYSTERIOUS. There was a little old man, of a most hideous aspect, living in Tamai, who, in a coarse mantle of tappa, went about the village, dancing, and singing, and making faces. He followed us about, wherever we went ; and, when unobserved by others, plucked at our garments, making frightful signs for us to go along with him somewhere, and see something. It was in vain that we tried to get rid of him. Kicks and cuffs, even, were at last resorted to ; but, though he howled like one possessed, he would not go away, but still haunted us. At last, we conjured the natives MYSTERIOUS. 279 to rid us of him ; but they only laughed ; so we were forced to endure the dispensation as well as we could. On the fourth night of our visit, returning home late from paying a few calls through the village, we turned a dark corner of trees, and came full upon our goblin friend ; as usual, chattering and motioning with his hands. The doctor, venting a curse, hurried forward ; but, from some impulse or other, I stood my ground, resolved to find out what this unaccountable object wanted of us. Seeing me pause, he crept close up to me, peered into my face, and then retreated, beckoning me to follow, which I did. In a few moments the village was behind us; and with my guide in advance, I found myself in the shadow of the heights overlooking the farther side of the valley. Here my guide paused until I came up with him ; when, side by side, and without speaking, we as- cended the hill. Presently we came to a wretched hut, barely distin- guishable in the shade cast by the neighbouring trees. Pushing aside a rude sliding door, held together with thongs, the goblin signed me to enter. Within, it looked as dark as pitch ; so I gave him to understand that he must strike a light, and go in before me. With- out replying, he disappeared in the darkness ; and, after groping about, I heard two sticks rubbing together, and directly saw a spark. A native taper was then lighted, and I stooped and entered. It was a mere kennel. Foul old mats, and broken cocoa-nut shells, and calabashes were strewn about the floor of earth ; and overhead, I caught glimpses of the stars through chinks in the roof. Here and there, the thatch had fallen through, and hung down in wisps. I now told him to set about what he was going to do, 280 omoo. or produce whatever he had to show, without delay. Looking round fearfully, as if dreading a surprise, he commenced turning over and over the rubbish in one corner. At last, he clutched a calabash, stained black, and with a neck broken off ; on one side of it was a large hole. Something seemed to be stuffed away in the vessel ; and after a deal of poking at the aperture, a musty old pair of sailor trousers was drawn forth ; and, holding them up eagerly, he inquired how many pieces of tobacco I would give for them ? Without replying, I hurried away ; the old man chasing me, and shouting as I ran, until I gained the village. Here, I dodged him, and made my way home, resolved never to disclose so inglorious an adventure. To no purpose, the next morning, my comrade be- sought me to enlighten him : I preserved a mysterious silence. The occurrence served me a good turn, however, so long as we abode in Tamai ; for the old clothesman never afterward troubled me ; but forever haunted the doctor, who, in vain, supplicated Heaven to be delivered from him. CHAPTER LXV. THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT. " I say, doctor," cried I, a few days after my adven- ture with the goblin, as, in the absence of our host, we were one morning lounging upon the matting in his dwelling, smoking our reed pipes, " Tamai's a thriving place ; why not settle down ? " THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT. 281 "Faith!" said he, "not a bad idea, Paul. But do you fancy they'll let us stay, though ? " " Why, certainly : they would be overjoyed to have a couple of karhowrees for townsmen." " Gad ! you're right, my pleasant fellow. Ha ! ha ! I'll put up a banana-leaf as physician from London — deliver lectures on Polynesian antiquities — teach Eng- lish in five lessons, of one hour each — establish power- looms for the manufacture of tappa — lay out a public park in the middle of the village, and found a festival in honour of Captain Cook ! " " But, surely, not without stopping to take breath," observed I. The doctor's projects, to be sure, were of a rather visionary cast ; but we seriously thought, nevertheless, of prolonging our stay in the valley for an indefinite period ; and, with this understanding, we were turning over various plans for spending our time pleasantly, when several women came running into the house, and hur- riedly besought us to heree! heree! (make our escape), crying out something about the mickonares. Thinking that we were about to be taken up under the act for the suppression of vagrancy, we flew out of the house, sprang into a canoe before the door, and paddled with might and main over to the opposite side of the lake. Approaching Rartoo's dwelling, was a great crowd, among which we perceived several natives, who, from their partly European dress, we were certain did not reside in Tamai. Plunging into the groves, we thanked our stars that we had thus narrowly escaped being apprehended as runaway seamen, and marched off to the beach. This, at least, was what we thought we had escaped. 282 omoo. Having fled the village, we could not think of prowl- ing about its vicinity, and then returning ; in doing so, we might be risking our liberty again. We therefore determined upon journeying back to Martair ; and set- ting our faces thitherward, we reached the planters' house about nightfall. They gave us a cordial recep- tion, and a hearty supper ; and we sat up talking until a late hour. We now prepared to go round to Taloo, a place from which we were not far off when at Tamai ; but wishing to see as much of the island as we could, we preferred returning to Martair, and then going round by way of the beach. Taloo, the only frequented harbour of Imeeo, lies on the western side of the island, almost directly over against Martair. Upon one shore of the bay stands the village of Partoowye, a missionary station. In its vicinity is an extensive sugar plantation — the best in the South Seas, perhaps — worked by a person from Sydney. The patrimonial property of the husband of Pomaree, and every way a delightful retreat, Partoowye was one of the occasional residences of the court. But at the time I write of, it was permanently fixed there, the queen having fled thither from Tahiti. Partoowye, they told us, was by no means the place Papeetee was. Ships seldom touched, and very few for- eigners were living ashore. A solitary whaler, however, was reported to be lying in the harbour, wooding and watering, and said to be in want of men. All things considered, I could not help looking upon Taloo as offering " a splendid opening " for us adven- turers. To say nothing of the facilities presented for going to sea in the whaler, or hiring ourselves out as day labourers in the sugar plantation, there were hopes THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT. 283 to be entertained of being promoted to some office of high trust and emolument, about the person of her majesty, the queen. Nor was this expectation altogether Quixotic. In the train of many Polynesian princes, roving whites are frequently found : gentlemen pensioners of state, bask- ing in the tropical sunshine of the court, and leading the pleasantest lives in the world. Upon islands little visited by foreigners, the first seaman that settles down is generally domesticated in the family of the head chief or king ; where he frequently discharges the functions of various offices, elsewhere filled by as many different individuals. As historiographer, for instance, he gives the natives some account of distant countries ; as commissioner of the arts and sciences, he instructs them in the use of the jack-knife, and the best way of shaping bits of iron hoop into spearheads ; and as interpreter to his majesty, he facilitates intercourse with strangers ; besides instructing the people generally in the uses of the most common English phrases, civil and profane ; but oftener the latter. These men generally marry well ; often — like Hardy of Hannamanoo — into the blood royal. Sometimes they officiate as personal attendant, or first lord in waiting, to the king. At Amboi, one of the Tonga Islands, a vagabond Welshman bends his knee as cupbearer to his cannibal majesty. He mixes his morn- ing cup of " arva," and, with profound genuflections presents it in a cocoa-nut bowl, richly carved. Upon another island of the same group, where it is customary to bestow no small pains in dressing the hair — frizzing it out by a curious process, into an enormous Pope's- head — an old man-of-war's-man fills the post of barber to the king. And as his majesty is not very neat, his 284 omoo. mop is exceedingly populous ; so that, when Jack is not engaged in dressing the head intrusted to his charge, he busies himself in gently titillating it — a sort of skewer being actually worn about in the patient's hair for that special purpose. Even upon the Sandwich Islands, a low rabble of foreigners is kept about the person of Kamehameha, for the purpose of ministering to his ease or enjoy- ment. Billy Loon, a jolly little negro, tricked out in a soiled blue jacket, studded all over with rusty bell-buttons, and garnished with shabby gold lace, is the royal drum- mer and pounder of the tambourine. Joe, a wooden- legged Portuguese, who lost his leg by a whale, is violinist; and Mordecai, as he is called, a villanous- looking scamp, going about with his cups and balls in a side pocket, diverts the court with his jugglery. These idle rascals receive no fixed salary, being altogether dependent upon the casual bounty of their master. Now and then they run up a score at the dance houses in Honolulu, where the illustrious Kamehameha III. afterwards calls and settles the bill. A few years since, an auctioneer to his majesty came near being added to the retinue of state. It seems that he was the first man who had practised his vocation on the Sandwich Islands ; and delighted with the sport of bidding upon his wares, the king was one of his best customers. At last he besought the man to leave his profession, and he should be handsomely provided for at court. But the auctioneer refused ; and so the ivory hammer lost the chance of being borne before him on a velvet cushion, when the next king went to be crowned. THE HEGIRA, OR FLIGHT. 285 But it was not as strolling players, nor as footmen out of employ, that the doctor and myself looked for- ward to our approaching introduction to the court of the Queen of Tahiti. On the contrary, as before hinted, we expected to swell the appropriations of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts on the civil list, by filling some honourable office in her gift. We were told, that to resist the usurpation of the French, the queen was rallying about her person all the foreigners she could. Her partiality for the English and Americans was well known ; and this was an addi- tional ground for our anticipating a favourable recep- tion. Zeke had informed us, moreover, that by the queen's counsellors at Partoowye, a war of aggression against the invaders at Papeetee had been seriously thought of. Should this prove true, a surgeon's com- mission for the doctor, and a lieutenancy for myself, were certainly counted upon in our sanguine expec- tations. Such, then, were our views, and such our hopes in projecting a trip to Taloo. But in our most lofty aspi- rations, we by no means lost sight of any minor matters which might help us to promotion. The doctor had informed me, that he excelled in playing the fiddle. I now suggested, that as soon as we arrived at Partoowye, we should endeavour to borrow a violin for him ; or if this could not be done, that he should manufacture some kind of a substitute, and thus equipped, apply for an audience of the queen. Her well-known passion for music would at once secure his admittance ; and so, under the most favourable auspices, bring about our introduction to her notice. '• And who knows," said my waggish comrade, throw- 286 omoo. ing his head back, and performing an imaginary air by briskly drawing one arm across the other, " who knows, that I may not fiddle myself into her majesty's good graces, so as to become a sort of Rizzio to the Tahitian princess ? " CHAPTER LXVI. HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO. The inglorious circumstances of our somewhat pre- mature departure from Tamai, filled the sagacious doc- tor and myself with sundry misgivings for the future. Under Zeke's protection, we were secure from all im- pertinent interference in our concerns on the part of the natives. But as friendless wanderers over the island, we ran the risk of being apprehended as runaways, and as such, sent back to Tahiti. The truth is, that the re- wards constantly offered for the apprehension of desert- ers from ships, induce some of the natives to eye all strangers suspiciously. A passport was therefore desirable ; but such a thing had never been heard of in Imeeo. At last, Long Ghost suggested, that as the Yankee was well known, and much respected all over the island, we should endeavour to obtain from him some sort of paper, not only certify- ing to our having been in his employ, but also to our not being highwaymen, kidnappers, nor yet runaway seamen. Even written in English, a paper like this would answer every purpose ; for the unlettered natives, standing in great awe of the document, would not dare to molest us until acquainted with its purport. Then, HOW WE WERE TO GET TO TALOO. 287 if it came to the worst, we might repair to the nearest missionary, and have the passport explained. Upon informing Zeke of these matters, he seemed highly flattered with the opinion we entertained of his reputa- tion abroad ; and he agreed to oblige us. The doctor at once offered to furnish him with a draught of the paper ; but he refused, saying he would write it himself. With a rooster's quill, therefore, a bit of soiled paper, and a stout heart, he set to work. Evidently, he was not ac- customed to composition ; for his literary throes were so violent, that the doctor suggested that some sort of a Caesarian operation might be necessary. The precious paper was at last finished ; and a great curiosity it was. We were much diverted with his rea- sons for not dating it. " In this here dumned climate," he observed, " a feller can't keep the run of the months, no how ; cause there's no seasons ; no summer and winter to go by. One's etarnally thinkin' it's always July, it's so pesky hot." A passport provided, we cast about for some means of getting to Taloo. The island of Imeeo is very nearly surrounded by a regular breakwater of coral, extending within a mile or less of the shore. The smooth canal within furnishes the best means of communication with the different set- tlements ; all of which, with the exception of Tamai, are right upon the water. And so indolent are the Imeeose, that they think nothing of going twenty or thirty miles round the island, in a canoe, in order to reach a place not a quarter of that distance by land. But as hinted before, the fear of the bullocks has something to do with this. The idea of journeying in a canoe struck our fancy quite pleasantly ; and we at once set about chartering 288 omoo. one, if possible. But none could we obtain. For not only did we have nothing to pay for hiring one, but we could not expect to have it loaned ; inasmuch as the good-natured owner would, in all probability, have to walk along the beach as we paddled, in order to bring back his property when we had no further use for it. At last, it was decided to commence our journey on foot ; trusting that we would soon fall in with a canoe going our way, in which we might take passage. The planters said we would find no beaten path : — all we had to do was to follow the beach ; and however inviting it might look inland, on no account must we stray from it. In short, the longest way round was the nearest way to Taloo. At intervals, there were little hamlets along the shore, besides lonely fishermen's huts here and there, where we could get plenty to eat with- out pay ; so there was no necessity to lay in any store. Intending to be off before sunrise the next morning, so as to have the benefit of the coolest part of the day, we bade our kind host farewell overnight ; and then, re- pairing to the beach, we launched our floating pallet, and slept away merrily till dawn. CHAPTER LXVII. THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. It was on the fourth day of the first month of the Hegira, or Flight from Tamai (we now reckoned our time thus), that, rising bright and early, we were up and away out of the valley of Martair, before the fisher- men even were stirring. THE JOURNEY BOUND THE BEACH. 289 It was the earliest dawn. The morning only showed itself along the lower edge of a bank of purple clouds, pierced by the misty peaks of Tahiti. The tropical day seemed too languid to rise. Sometimes, starting fitfully, it decked the clouds with faint edgings of pink and gray, which, fading away, left all dim again. Anon, it threw out thin, pale rays, growing lighter and lighter, until at last, the golden morning sprang out of the East with a bound — darting its bright beams hither and thither, higher and higher, and sending them, broadcast, over the face of the heavens. All balmy from the groves of Tahiti, came an indo- lent air, cooled by its transit over the waters ; and grate- ful under foot was the damp and slightly yielding beach, from which the waves seemed just retired. The doctor was in famous spirits ; removing his Roora, he went splashing into the sea ; and, after swimming a few yards, waded ashore, hopping, skipping, and jump- ing along the beach ; but very careful to cut all his ca- pers in the direction of our journey. Say what they will of the glowing independence one feels in the saddle, give me the first morning flush of your cheery pedestrian ! Thus exhilarated, we went on, as light-hearted and care-free as we could wish. And here I cannot refrain from lauding the very supe- rior inducements which most intertropical countries afford, not only to mere rovers like ourselves, but to penniless people generally. In these genial regions, one's wants are naturally diminished ; and those which remain are easily gratified : fuel, house-shelter, and, if you please, clothing, may be entirely dispensed with. How different, our hard northern latitudes ! Alas ! 290 omoo. the lot of a " poor devil," twenty degrees north of the tropic of Cancer, is indeed pitiable. At last, the beach contracted to hardly a yard's width, and the dense thicket almost dipped into the sea. In place of the smooth sand, too, we had sharp fragments of broken coral, which made travelling exceedingly un- pleasant. " Lord ! my foot ! " roared the doctor, fetch- ing it up for inspection, with a galvanic fling of the limb. A sharp splinter had thrust itself into the flesh, through a hole in his boot. My sandals were worse yet ; their soles taking a sort of fossil impression of everything trod upon. Turning round a bold sweep of the beach, we came upon a piece of fine, open ground, with a fisherman's dwelling in the distance, crowning a knoll which rolled off into the water. The hut proved to be a low, rude erection, very recently thrown up ; for the bamboos were still green as grass, and the thatching, fresh and fragrant as meadow hay. It was open upon three sides ; so that, upon drawing near, the domestic arrangements within were in plain sight. No one was stirring ; and nothing was to be seen but a clumsy old chest of native workman- ship, a few calabashes, and bundles of tappa hanging against a post ; and a heap of something, we knew not what, in a dark corner. Upon close inspection, the doctor discovered it to be a loving old couple, locked in each other's arms, and rolled together in a tappa mantle. " Halloa ! Darby ! " he cried, shaking the one with a beard. But Darby heeded him not ; though Joan, a wrinkled old body, started up in affright, and yelled aloud. Neither of us attempting to gag her, she pre* sently became quiet ; and after staring hard, and asking THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. 291 some unintelligible questions, she proceeded to rouse her still slumbering mate. What ailed him, we could not tell ; but there was no waking him. Equally in vain were all his dear spouse's cuffs, pinches, and other endearments ; he lay like a log, face up, and snoring away like a cavalry trumpeter. "Here, my good woman," said Long Ghost, "just let me try ; " and, taking the patient right by his nose, he so lifted him bodily, into a sitting position, and held him there until his eyes opened. When this event came to pass, Darby looked round like one stupefied ; and then, springing to his feet, backed away into a cor- ner, from which place we became the objects of his earn- est and respectful attention. " Permit me, my dear Darby, to introduce to you my esteemed friend and comrade, Paul," said the doctor, gallanting me up with all the grimace and flourish im- aginable. Upon this, Darby began to recover his fac- ulties, and surprised us not a little, by talking a few words of English. So far as could be understood, they were expressive of his having been aware, that there were two " karhowrees " in the neighbourhood ; that he was glad to see us, and would have something for us to eat in no time. How he came by his English, was explained to us before we left. Some time previous, he had been a den- izen of Papeetee, where the native language is broidered over with the most classic sailor phrases. He seemed to be quite proud of his residence there, and alluded to it in the same significant way in which a provincial in- forms you that in his time he has resided in the capital. The old fellow was disposed to be garrulous ; but being sharp-set, we told him to get breakfast ; after which we would hear his anecdotes. While employed among the 292 omoo. calabashes, the strange, antiquated fondness between these old semi-savages was really amusing. I made no doubt that they were saying to each other, " Yes, my love " — " No, my life," just in the way that some young couples do at home. They gave us a hearty meal ; and, while we were dis- cussing its merits, they assured us, over and over again, that they expected nothing in return for their atten- tions ; more : we were at liberty to stay as long as we pleased, and, as long as we did stay, their house and everything they had, was no longer theirs, but ours; still more : they themselves were our slaves — the old lady, to a degree that was altogether superfluous. This, now, is Tahitian hospitality! Self-immolation upon one's own hearthstone for the benefit of the guest. The Polynesians carry their hospitality to an amazing extent. Let a native of Waiurar, the westernmost part of Tahiti, make his appearance as a traveller at Par- toowye, the most easternly village of Imeeo, though a perfect stranger, the inhabitants on all sides accost him at their doorways, inviting him to enter, and make him- self at home. But the traveller passes on, examining every house attentively, until, at last, he pauses before one which suits him, and then exclaiming, "Ah, ena maitai " (this one will do, I think), he steps in, and makes himself perfectly at ease, flinging himself upon the mats, and very probably calling for a nice young cocoa-nut, and a piece of toasted bread-fruit, sliced thin, and done brown. Curious to relate, however, should a stranger carrying it thus bravely, be afterward discovered to be without a house of his own, why, he may thenceforth go a-begging for his lodgings. The " karhowrees," or white men, are exceptions to this rule. Thus is it precisely as in THE JOURNEY ROUND THE BEACH. 293 civilised countries ; where those who have houses and lands are incessantly bored to death with invitations to come and live in other people's houses, while many a poor gentleman who inks the seams of his coat, and to whom the like invitation would be really acceptable, may go and sue for it. But to the credit of the ancient Tahitians, it should here be observed, that this blemish upon their hospitality is only of recent origin, and was wholly unknown in old times. So told me Captain Bob. In Polynesia it is esteemed a great hit, if a man suc- ceed in marrying into a family, to which the best part I of the community is related (Heaven knows it is other- \ wise with us). The reason is, that when he goes a-trav- elling, the greater number of houses are the more com- pletely at his service. Receiving a paternal benediction from old Darby and Joan, we continued our journey ; resolved to stop at the very next place of attraction which offered. Nor did we long stroll for it. A fine walk along a beach of shells, and we came to a spot, where with trees here and there, the land was all meadow, sloping away to the water, which stirred a sedgy growth of reeds bordering its margin. Close by was a little cove, walled in with coral, where a fleet of canoes was dan- cing up and down. A few paces distant, on a natural terrace overlooking the sea, were several native dwell- ings, newly thatched, and peeping into view out of the foliage, like summer-houses. As we drew near, forth came a burst of voices ; and presently, three gay girls, overflowing with life, health, and youth, and full of spirits and mischief. One was arrayed in a flaunting robe of calico ; and her long black hair was braided behind in two immense tresses, joined 294 omoo. together at the ends, and wreathed with the green ten- drils of a vine. From her self-possessed and forward air I fancied she might be some young lady from Papeetee, on a visit to her country relations. Her companions wore mere slips of cotton cloth ; their hair was dishev- elled ; and, though very pretty, they betrayed the re- serve and embarrassment characteristic of the provinces. The little gypsy first mentioned ran up to me with great cordiality ; and giving the Tahitian salutation, opened upon me such a fire of questions, that there was no understanding, much less answering, them. But our hearty welcome to Loohooloo, as she called the hamlet, was made plain enough. Meanwhile, Doctor Long Ghost gallantly presented an arm to each of the other young ladies, which at first they knew not what to make of ; but at last, taking it for some kind of a joke, accepted the civility. The names of these three damsels were at once made known by themselves; and being so exceedingly ro- mantic, I cannot forbear particularising them. Upon my comrade's arms, then, were hanging Night and Morning, in the persons of Farnowar, or the Day-born, and Farnoopoo, or the Niglnvborn. She with the tresses was very appropriately styled Marhar-Rarrar, the Wake- ful, or Bright-eyed. By this time, the houses were emptied of the rest of their inmates — a few old men and women, and several strapping young fellows rubbing their eyes and yawning. All crowded round putting questions as to whence we came. Upon being informed of our acquaintance with Zeke, they were delighted; and one of them recog- nised the boots worn by the doctor. " Keekee (Zeke) maitai," they cried, " nuee nuee hanna hanna portarto " — (makes plenty of potatoes). A DINNER-PARTY IN 1MEE0. 295 There was now a little friendly altercation as to who should have the honour of entertaining the strangers. At last, a tall old gentleman, by name Marharvai, with a bald head and white beard, took us each by the hand, and led us into his dwelling. Once inside, Marharvai, pointing about with his staff, was so obsequious in assuring us that his house was ours, that Long Ghost suggested he might as well hand over the deed. It was drawing near noon ; so after a light lunch of roasted bread-fruit, a few whiffs of a pipe, and some lively chatting, our host admonished the company to lie down, and take the everlasting siesta. We com- plied ; and had a social nap all round. CHAPTER LXVIII. A DINNER-PAKTY IN EVXEEO. It was just in the middle of the merry, mellow after- noon, that they ushered us to dinner, underneath a green shelter of palm boughs ; open all round, and so low at the eaves, that we stooped to enter. Within, the ground was strewn over with aromatic ferns — called " nahee " — freshly gathered ; which, stirred under foot, diffused the sweetest odour. On one side was a row of yellow mats, inwrought with fibres of bark, stained a bright red. Here, seated after the fashion of the Turk, we looked out, over a verdant bank, upon the mild, blue, endless Pacific. So far round had we skirted the island, that the view of Tahiti was now intercepted. 296 omoo. Upon the ferns before us, were laid several layers of broad thick " pooroo " leaves, lapping over, one upon the other. And upon these were placed, side by side, newly plucked banana leaves, at least two yards in length, and very wide : the stalks were withdrawn, so as to make them lie flat. This green cloth was set out and garnished, in the manner following : — First, a number of " pooroo " leaves, by way of plates, were ranged along on one side ; and by each was a rus- tic nut-bowl, half-filled with sea-water, and a Tahitian roll, or small bread-fruit, roasted brown. An immense flat calabash, placed in the centre, was heaped up with numberless small packages of moist, steaming leaves : in each was a small fish, baked in the earth, and done to a turn. This pyramid of a dish was flanked on either side by an ornamental calabash. One was brimming with the golden-hue d " poee," or pudding, made from the red plantain of the mountains ; the other was stacked up with cakes of the Indian turnip, previously macerated in a mortar, kneaded with the milk of the cocoa-nut, and then baked. In the spaces between the three dishes, were piled young cocoa-nuts, stripped of their husks. Their eyes had been opened and enlarged : so that each was a ready-charged goblet. There was a sort of side-cloth in one corner, upon which, in bright buff jackets, lay the fattest of bananas ; " avees," red-ripe ; guavas, with the shadows of their crimson pulp flushing through a transparent skin, and almost coming and going there like blushes ; oranges, tinged here and there, berry-brown ; and great jolly melons, which rolled about in very portliness. Such a heap ! All ruddy, ripe, and round — bursting with the good cheer of the tropical soil, from which they sprang ! " A land of orchards ! " cried the doctor, in a rapture *, A DINNER-PARTY IN IMEEO. 297 and he snatched a morsel from a sort of fruit of which gentlemen of the sanguine temperament are remarkably fond ; namely, the ripe cherry lips of Miss Day-born> who stood looking on. Marharvai allotted seats to his guests ; and the meal began. Thinking that his hospitality needed some acknowledgment, I rose, and pledged him in the vege- table wine of the cocoa-nut ; merely repeating the ordi- nary salutation, " Yar onor boyoee." Sensible that some compliment, after the fashion of white men, was paid him, with a smile, and a courteous flourish of the hand, he bade me be seated. No people, however refined, are more easy and graceful in their manners than the Imeeose. The doctor, sitting next our host, now came under his special protection. Laying before his guest one of the packages of fish, Marharvai opened it, and com- mended its contents to his particular regards. But my comrade was one of those, who, on convivial occasions, can always take care of themselves. He ate an indefi- nite number of " pehee lee lees " (small fish), his own and his next neighbour's bread-fruit; and helped him- self, to right and left, with all the ease of an accom- plished diner-out. "Paul," said he, at last, "you don't seem to be get- ting along ; why don't you try the pepper sauce ? " and, by way of example, he steeped a morsel of food into his nutful of sea-water. On following suit, I found it quite piquant, though rather bitter ; but, on the whole, a capital substitute for salt. The Imeeose invariably use sea-water in this way, deeming it quite a treat ; and considering that their country is surrounded by an ocean of catsup, the luxury cannot be deemed an ex- pensive one. 298 omoo. The fish were delicious ; the manner of cooking them in the ground, preserving all the juices, and rendering them exceedingly sweet and tender. The plantain pud- ding was almost cloying ; the cakes of Indian turnip, quite palatable ; and the roasted bread-fruit, crisp as toast. During the meal, a native lad walked round and round the party, carrying a long staff of bamboo. This he occasionally tapped upon the cloth before each guest ; when a white clotted substance dropped forth, with a savour not unlike that of a curd. This proved to be " lownee," an excellent relish, prepared from the grated meat of ripe cocoa-nuts, moistened with cocoa-nut milk and salt water, and kept perfectly tight, until a little past the saccharine stage of fermentation. Throughout the repast there was much lively chat- ting among the islanders, in which their conversational powers quite exceeded ours. The young ladies, too, showed themselves very expert in the use of their tongues, and contributed much to the gaiety which prevailed. Nor did these lively nymphs suffer the meal to lan- guish ; for upon the doctor's throwing himself back, with an air of much satisfaction, they sprang to their feet, and pelted him with oranges and guavas. This, at last, put an end to the entertainment. By a hundred whimsical oddities, my long friend became a great favourite with these people ; and they bestowed upon him a long, comical title, expressive of his lank figure and Roora combined. The latter, by the by, never failed to excite the remark of every body we encountered. The giving of nicknames is quite a passion with the people of Tahiti and Imeeo. No one, with any peculi- A DIN NEB-PARTY IN IMEEO. 299 arity, whether of person or temper, is exempt; not even strangers. A pompous captain of a man-of-war, visiting Tahiti for the second time, discovered that, among the natives, he went by the dignified title of " Atee Poee " — literally, Poee Head, or Pudding Head. Nor is the highest rank among themselves any protection. The first husband of the present queen was commonly known in the court circles, as " Pot Belly ." He carried the greater part of his person before him, to be sure ; and so did the gentlemanly George IV. — but what a title for a king consort ! Even " Pomaree " itself, the royal patronymic, was, originally, a mere nickname, and literally signifies, one talking through his nose. The first monarch of that name, being on a war party, and sleeping overnight among the mountains, awoke one morning with a cold in his head ; and some wag of a courtier had no more manners than to vulgarise him thus. How different from the volatile Polynesian in this, as in all other respects, is our grave and decorous North American Indian. While the former bestows a name, in accordance with some humorous or ignoble trait, the latter seizes upon what is deemed the most exalted or warlike : and hence among the red tribes, we have the truly patrician appellations of " White Eagles," " Young Oaks," " Fiery Eyes," and " Bended Bows." 300 OMOO. CHAPTER LXIX. THE COCOA-PALM. While the doctor and the natives were taking a digestive nap after dinner, I strolled forth to have a peep at the country which could produce so generous a meal. To my surprise, a fine strip of land in the vicinity of the hamlet, and protected seaward by a grove of cocoa- nut and bread-fruit trees, was under high cultivation. Sweet potatoes, Indian turnips, and yarns were growing ; also melons, a few pine-apples, and other fruits. Still more pleasing was the sight of young bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees set out with great care, as if, for once, the improvident Polynesian had thought of his posterity. But this was the only instance of native thrift which ever came under my observation. For, in all my ram- bles over Tahiti and Imeeo, nothing so much struck me as the comparative scarcity of these trees in many places where they ought to abound. Entire valleys, like Mar- tair, of inexhaustible fertility, are abandoned to all the rankness of untamed vegetation. Alluvial flats border- ing the sea, and watered by streams from the mountains, are overgrown with a wild, scrub guava-bush, introduced by foreigners, and which spreads with such fatal rapid- ity, that the natives, standing still while it grows, anti- cipate its covering the entire island. Even tracts of clear land, which, with so little pains, might be made to wave with orchards, lie wholly neglected. When I consider their unequalled soil and climate, thus unaccountably slighted, I often turned in amaze- THE COCOA-PALM. 301 ment upon the natives about Papeetee ; some of whom all but starve in their gardens run to waste. Upon other islands which I have visited, of similar fertility, and wholly unreclaimed from their first discovered condition, no spectacle of this sort was presented. The high estimation in which many of their fruit- trees are held by the Tahitians and Imeeose — their beauty in the landscape — their manifold uses, and the facility with which they are propagated, are considera* tions which render the remissness alluded to still more unaccountable. The cocoa-palm is an example ; a tree I by far the most important production of Nature in the / Tropics. To the Polynesian, it is emphatically the Tree of Life ; transcending even the bread-fruit in the multi- farious uses to which it is applied. Its very aspect is imposing. Asserting its supremacy by an erect and lofty bearing, it may be said to compare with other trees, as man with inferior creatures. The blessings it confers are incalculable. Year after year, the islanders repose beneath its shade, both eating and drinking of its fruit ; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves them into baskets to carry his food ; he cools himself with a fan platted from the young leaf- lets, and shields his head from the sun by a bonnet of the leaves ; sometimes he clothes himself with the cloth- like substance which wraps round the base of the stalks, whose elastic rods, strung with filberts, are used as a taper; the larger nuts, thinned and polished, furnish him with a beautiful goblet; the smaller ones, with bowls for his pipes - the dry husks kindle his fires ; their fibres are twisted into fishing-lines and cords for his canoes; he heals his wounds with a balsam com- pounded from the juice of the nut ; and with the oil ex- tracted from its meat, embalms the bodies of the dead. 302 omoo. The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn into posts, it upholds the islander's dwelling ; eon- verted into charcoal, it cooks his food ; and supported on blocks of stones, rails in his lands. He impels his canoe through the water with a paddle of the wood, and goes to battle with clubs and spears of the same hard material. In pagan Tahiti, a cocoa-nut branch was the symbol of regal authority. Laid upon the sacrifice in the temple, it made the offering sacred; and with it the priests chastised and put to flight the evil spirits which assailed them. The supreme majesty of Oro, the great god of their mythology, was declared in the cocoa-nut log from which his image was rudely carved. Upon one of the Tonga Islands, there stands a living tree, revered itself as a deity. Even upon the Sandwich Islands, the cocoa-palm retains all its ancient reputation ; the people there having thought of adopting it as the national emblem. The cocoa-nut is planted as follows : Selecting a suita- ble place, you drop into the ground a fully ripe nut, and leave it. In a few days, a thin, lance-like shoot forces itself through a minute hole in the shell, pierces the husk, and soon unfolds three pale-green leaves in the air ; while originating, in the same soft white sponge which now completely fills the nut, a pair of fibrous roots, pushing away the stoppers which close two holes in an opposite direction, penetrate the shell, and strike vertically into the ground. A day or two more, and the shell and husk, which in the last and germinating stage of the nut, are so hard that a knife will scarcely make any impression, spontaneously burst by some force within ; and, henceforth, the hardy young plant thrives apace ; and needing no culture, pruning, or attention of THE COCOA-PALM. 303 any sort, rapidly arrives at maturity. In four or five years it bears ; in twice as many more, it begins to lift its head among the groves, where, waxing strong, it flourishes for near a century. Thus, as some voyager has said, the man who but drops one of these nuts into the ground, may be said to confer a greater and more certain benefit upon himself and posterity, than many a life's toil in less genial climes. The fruitfulness of the tree is remarkable. As long as it lives, it bears ; and without intermission. Two hundred nuts, besides innumerable white blossoms of others, may be seen upon it at one time ; and though a whole year is required to bring any one of them to the germinating point, no two, perhaps, are at one time in precisely the same stage of growth. The tree delights in a maritime situation. In its greatest perfection, it is perhaps found right on the sea- shore, where its roots are actually washed. But such instances are only met with upon islands where the swell of the sea is prevented from breaking on the beach by an encircling reef. No saline flavour is per- ceptible in the nut produced in such a place. Although it bears in any soil, whether upland or bottom, it does not flourish vigorously inland ; and I have frequently observed, that when met with far up the valleys, its tall stem inclines seaward, as if pining after a more genial region. It is a curious fact, that, if you deprive the cocoa-nut tree of the verdant tuft at its head, it dies at once ; and if allowed to stand thus, the trunk, which, when alive, is encased in so hard a bark as to be almost impervious to a bullet, moulders away, and, in an incredibly short period, becomes dust. This is, perhaps, partly owing 304 omoo. to the peculiar constitution of the trunk, a mere cylin- der of minute hollow reeds, closely packed, and very hard ; but when exposed at top, peculiarly fitted to convey moisture and decay through the entire stem. The finest orchard of cocoa-palms I know, and the only plantation of them I ever saw at the islands, is one that stands right upon the southern shore of Papeetee Bay. They were set out by the first Pomaree, almost half-a-century ago ; and the soil being especially adapted to their growth, the noble trees now form a magnificent grove, nearly a mile in extent. No other plant, scarcely a bush, is to be seen within its precincts. The Broom Road passes through its entire length. At noonday, this grove is one of the most beautiful, serene, witching places that ever was seen. High over- head are ranges of green rustling arches ; through which the sun's rays come down to you in sparkles. You seem to be wandering through illimitable halls of pillars ; everywhere you catch glimpses of stately aisles, inter- secting each other at all points. A strange silence, too, reigns far and near ; the air flushed with the mellow stillness of a sunset. But after the long morning calms, the sea-breeze comes in ; and creeping over the tops of these thou- sand trees, they nod their plumes. Soon the breeze freshens ; and you hear the branches brushing against each other; and the flexible trunks begin to sway. Towards evening, the whole grove is rocking to and fro ; and the traveller on the Broom Road is startled by the frequent falling of the nuts, snapped from their brittle stems. They come flying through the air, ring- ing like jugglers' balls; and often bound along the ground for many rods. LIFE AT LOOHOOLOO. 305 CHAPTER LXX. LITE AT LOOHOOLOO. Fending the society at Loohooloo very pleasant, the young ladies, in particular, being extremely sociable; and, moreover, in love with the famous good cheer of old Marharvai, we acquiesced in an invitation of his, to tarry a few days longer. We might then, he said, join a small canoe party, which was going to a place a league or two distant. So averse to all exertion are these people, that they really thought the prospect of thus getting rid of a few miles' walking, would prevail with us, even if there were no other inducement. The people of the hamlet, as we soon discovered, formed a snug little community of cousins ; of which our host seemed the head. Marharvai, in truth, was a petty chief, who owned the neighboring lands. And as the wealthy, in most cases, rejoice in a numerous kindred, the family footing upon which everybody visited him, was, perhaps, ascribable to the fact of his being the lord of the manor. Like Captain Bob, he was, in some things, a gentleman of the old school — a stickler for the customs of a past and pagan age. Nowhere else, except in Tamai, did we find the man- ners of the natives less vitiated by recent changes. The old-fashioned Tahitian dinner they gave us on the day of our arrival, was a fair sample of their general mode of living. Our time passed delightfully. The doctor went his way, and I mine. With a pleasant companion, he was forever strolling inland, ostensibly to collect botanical 306 omoo. specimens; while I, for the most part, kept near the sea ; sometimes taking the girls on aquatic excursions in a canoe. Often we went fishing ; not dozing over stupid hooks and lines, but leaping right into the water, and chasing our prey over the coral rocks, spear in hand. Spearing fish is glorious sport. The Imeeose, all round the island, catch them in no other way. The smooth shallows between the reef and the shore, and, at low water, the reef itself, being admirably adapted to this mode of capturing them. At almost any time of the day — save ever the sacred hour of noon — you may see the fish-hunters pursuing their sport ; with loud halloes, brandishing their spears, and splashing through the water in all directions. Sometimes a solitary native is seen, far out upon a lonely shallow, wading slowly along, with eye intent and poised spear. But the best sport of all, is going out upon the great reef itself, by torch-light. The natives follow this recreation with as much spirit as a gentleman of England does the chase ; and take full as much delight in it. The torch is nothing more than a bunch of dry reeds, bound firmly together ; the spear, a long, light pole, with an iron head, on one side barbed. I shall never forget the night, that old Marharvai and the rest of us, paddling off to the reef, leaped at midnight upon the coral ledges with waving torches and spears. We were more than a mile from the land ; the sullen ocean thundering upon the outside of the rocks, dashed the spray in our faces, almost extinguish- ing the flambeaux ; and, far as the eye could reach, the darkness of sky and water was streaked with a long, misty line of foam, marking the course of the coral barrier. The wild fishermen, flourishing their weapons, WE START FOR TALOO. 307 and yelling like so many demons to scare their prey, sprang from ledge to ledge, and sometimes darted their spears in the very midst of the breakers. But fish-spearing was not the only sport we had at Loohooloo. Right on the beach was a mighty old cocoa-nut tree, the roots of which had been underwashed by the waves, so that the trunk inclined far over its base. From the tuft of the tree, a stout cord of bark depended, the end of which swept the water several yards from the shore. This was a Tahitian swing. A native lad seizes hold of the cord, and, after swinging to and fro quite leisurely, all at once sends himself fifty or sixty feet from the water, rushing through the air like a rocket. I doubt whether any of our rope-dancers would attempt the feat. For my own part, I had neither head nor heart for it; so, after sending a lad aloft with an additional cord, by way of security, I con- structed a large basket of green boughs, in which I and some particular friends of mine used to swing over sea and land by the hour. CHAPTER LXXI. WE START FOR TALOO. Bright was the morning, and brighter still the smiles of the young ladies who accompanied us, when we sprang into a sort of family canoe — wide and roomy — and bade adieu to the hospitable Marharvai and his tenantry. As we paddled away, they stood upon the beach, waving their hands, and crying out, 308 omoo. " Aroha ! aroha! " (Farewell ! farewell !) as long as we were within hearing. Very sad at parting with them,, we endeavoured, nev- ertheless, to console ourselves in the society of our fellow-passengers. Among these were two old ladies ; but as they said nothing to us, we will say nothing about them ; nor anything about the old men who managed the canoe. But of the three mischievous, dark-eyed young witches, who lounged in the stern of that com- fo rtable old island gondola, I have a great deal to say. In the first place, one of them was Marhar-Rarrar, the Bright-eyed ; and, in the second place, neither she nor the romps, her companions, ever dreamed of taking the voyage, until the doctor and myself announced our in- tention ; their going along was nothing more than a madcap frolic ; in short, they were a parcel of wicked hoydens, bent on mischief, who laughed in your face / when you looked sentimental, and only tolerated your company when making merry at your expense. Something or other about us was perpetually awaking their mirth. Attributing this to his own remarkable figure, the doctor increased their enjoyment, by assum- ing the part of a Merry Andrew. Yet his cap and bells never jingled but to some tune ; and while playing the Tom-fool, I more than suspected that he was trying to play the rake. At home, it is deemed auspicious to go a-wooing in epaulets ; but among the Polynesians, your best dress in courting is motley. A fresh breeze springing up, we set our sail of mat- ting, and glided along as tranquilly as if floating upon an inland stream ; the white reef on one hand, and the green shore on the other. Soon as we turned a headland, we encountered another canoe, paddling with might and main in an WE START FOR TALOO. 309 opposite direction ; the strangers shouting to each other, and a tall fellow in the bow dancing up and down like a crazy man. They shot by us like an arrow, though our fellow-voyagers shouted again and again, for them to cease paddling. According to the natives, this was a kind of royal mail-canoe, carrying a message from the queen to her friends in a distant part of the island. Passing several shady bowers, which looked quite inviting, we proposed touching, and diversifying the monotony of a sea-voyage by a stroll ashore. So, for- cing our canoe among the bushes, behind a decayed palm, lying partly in the water, we left the old folks to take a nap in the shade, and gallanted the others among the trees, which were here trellised with vines and creeping shrubs. In the early part of the afternoon, we drew near the place to which the party were going. It was a solitary house, inhabited by four or five old women, who, when we entered, were gathered in a circle about the mats, eating poee from a cracked calabash. They seemed delighted at seeing our companions, but rather drew up when introduced to ourselves. Eying us distrustfully, they whispered to know who we were. The answers they received were not satisfactory ; for they treated us with marked coolness and reserve, and seemed desirous of breaking off our acquaintance with the girls. Un- willing, therefore, to stay where our company was dis- agreeable, we resolved to depart, without even eating a meal. Informed of this, Marhar-Rarrar and her companions evinced the most lively concern ; and equally unmind- ful of their former spirits, and the remonstrances of the old ladies, broke forth into sobs and lamentations, which 310 OMOO. were not to be withstood. We agreed, therefore, to tarry until they left for home ; which would be at the "Aheharar," or Falling of the Sun; in other words, at sunset. When the hour arrived, after much leave-taking, we saw them safely embarked. As the canoe turned a bluff, they seized the paddles from the hands of the old men, and waved them silently in the air. This was meant for a touching farewell, as the paddle is only waved thus, when the parties separating never more expect to meet. We now continued our journey; and following the beach, soon came to a level and lofty overhanging bank, which, planted here and there with trees, took a broad sweep round a considerable part of the island. A fine pathway skirted the edge of the bank ; and often we paused to admire the scenery. The evening was still and fair, even for so heavenly a climate ; and all round, far as the eye could reach, was the blending blue sky and ocean. As we went on, the reef -belt still accompanied us; turning as we turned, and thundering its distant bass upon the ear, like the unbroken roar of a cataract. Dashing for ever against their coral rampart, the break- ers looked, in the distance, like a line of rearing white chargers, reined in, tossing their white manes, and bridling with foam. These great natural breakwaters are admirably de- signed for the protection of this land. Nearly all the Society Islands are defended by them. Were the vast swells of the Pacific to break against the soft alluvial bottoms which in many places border the sea, the soil would soon be washed away, and the natives be thus deprived of their most productive lands. As it is, the banks of no rivulet are firmer. A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 311 But the coral barriers answer another purpose. They form all the harbours of this group, including the twenty-four round about the shores of Tahiti. Curiously enough, the openings in the reefs, by which alone ves- sels enter to their anchorage, are invariably opposite the mouths of running streams : an advantage fully appreciated by the mariner who touches for the purpose of watering his ship. It is said, that the fresh water of the land, mixing with the salts held in solution by the sea, so acts upon the latter, as to resist the formation of the coral ; and hence the breaks. Here and there, these openings are sentinelled, as it were, by little fairy islets, green as emerald, and waving with palms. Strangely and beau- tifully diversifying the long line of breakers, no objects can strike the fancy more vividly. Pomaree II., with a taste in watering-places truly Tahitian, selected one of them as a royal retreat. We passed it on our journey. Omitting several further adventures which befell us after leaving the party from Loohooloo, we must now hurry on, to relate what happened just before reaching the place of our destination. CHAPTER LXXII. A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. It must have been at least the tenth day, reckoning from the Hegira, that we found ourselves the guests of Varvy, an old hermit of an islander, who kept house by himself, perhaps a couple of leagues from Taloo. 312 omoo. A stone's cast from the beach there was a fantastic rock, moss-grown, and deep in a dell. It was insulated by a shallow brook, which, dividing its waters, flowed on both sides, until united below. Twisting its roots round the rock, a gnarled " Aoa " spread itself overhead in a wilderness of foliage ; the elastic branch-roots de- pending from the larger boughs, insinuating themselves into every cleft, thus forming supports to the parent stem. In some places, these pendulous branches, half- grown, had not yet reached the rock ; swinging their loose fibrous ends in the air like whiplashes. Varvy's hut, a mere coop of bamboos, was perched upon a level part of the rock, the ridge-pole resting at one end in a crotch of the " Aoa," and the other propped by a forked bough planted in a fissure. Notwithstanding our cries as we drew near, the first hint the old hermit received of our approach, was the doctor's stepping up and touching his shoulder, as he was kneeling- over on a stone, clean ing; fish in the brook. He leaped up, and stared at us. But with a variety of uncouth gestures, he soon made us welcome ; informing us, by the same means, that he was both deaf and dumb; he then motioned us into his dwelling. Going in, we threw ourselves upon an old mat, and peered round. The soiled bamboos and calabashes looked so uninviting, that the doctor was for pushing on to Taloo that night, notwithstanding it was near sun- set. But at length we concluded to stay where we were. After a good deal of bustling outside under a decrepit shed, the old man made his appearance with our supper. In one hand he held a flickering taper, and in the other a huge, flat calabash, scantily filled with viands. His eyes were dancing in his head, and he looked from the A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 813 calabash to us, and from us to the calabash, as much as to say, " Ah, my lads, what do ye think of this, eh ? Pretty good cheer, eh ? " But the fish and Indian turnip being none of the best, we made but a sorry meal. While discussing it, the old man tried hard to make himself understood by signs ; most of which were so excessively ludicrous, that we made no doubt he was perpetrating a series of pantomimic jokes. The remnants of the feast removed, our host left us for a moment, returning with a calabash of portly dimen- sions, and furnished with a long hooked neck, the mouth of which was stopped with a wooden plug. It was cov- ered with particles of earth, and looked as if just taken from some place under ground. With sundry winks and horrible giggles, peculiar to the dumb, the vegetable demijohn was now tapped ; the old fellow looking round cautiously, and pointing at it; as much as to intimate, that it contained something which was " taboo," or forbidden. Aware that intoxicating liquors were strictly prohib- ited to the natives, we now watched our entertainer with much interest. Charging a cocoa-nut shell he tossed it off, and then filling it up again, presented the goblet to me. Disliking the smell, I made faces at it; upon which he became highly excited ; so much so, that a miracle was wrought upon the spot. Snatching the cup from my hands, he shouted out, " Ah, karhowree sabbee lee-lee, ena arva tee maitai ! " in other words, What a blockhead of a white man ! this is the real stuff! We could not have been more startled, had a frog leaped from his mouth. For an instant, he looked con- fused enough himself ; and then, placing a finger myste- riously upon his mouth, he contrived to make us under- 314 omoo. stand, that at times he was subject to a suspension of the powers of speech. Deeming the phenomenon a remarkable one, every- way, the doctor desired him to open his mouth, so that he might have a look down. But he refused. This occurrence made us rather suspicious of our host ; nor could we afterwards account for his conduct, except by supposing that his feigning deafness might in some way or other assist him in the nefarious pursuits in which it afterwards turned out that he was engaged. This conclusion, however, was not altogether satisfac- tory. To oblige him, we at last took a sip of his " arva tee," and found it very crude, and strong as Lucifer. Curious to know whence it was obtained, we questioned him ; when, lighting up with pleasure, he seized the taper, and led us outside the hut, bidding us follow. After going some distance through the woods, we came to a dismantled old shed of boughs, apparently abandoned to decay. Underneath, nothing was to be seen but heaps of decaying leaves and an immense, clumsy jar, wide-mouthed, and, by some means, rudely hollowed out from a ponderous stone. Here, for a while, we were left to ourselves ; the old man placing the light in the jar, and then disappearing. He returned, carrying a long, large bamboo, and a crotched stick. Throwing these down, he poked under a pile of rubbish, and brought out a rough block of wood, pierced through and through with a hole, which was im- mediately clapped on top of the jar. Then planting the crotched stick upright about two yards distant, and making it sustain one end of the bamboo, he inserted the other end of the latter into the hole in the block ; concluding these arrangements, by placing an old cala- bash under the further end of the bamboo. A DEALER IN THE CONTRABAND. 315 Coming up to us now with a sly, significant look, and pointing admiringly at his apparatus, he exclaimed, " Ah, karhowree, ena hannahanna arva tee ! " as much as to say, " This, you see, is the way it's done." His contrivance was nothing less than a native still, where he manufactured his island "poteen." The dis- array in which we found it was probably intentional, as a security against detection. Before we left the shed, the old fellow toppled the whole concern over, and dragged it away piecemeal. His disclosing his secret to us thus was characteristic of the " Tootai Owrees," or contemners of the missiona- ries among the natives : who, presuming that all for- eigners are opposed to the ascendenc^-Qf-feke missionaries, take pleasure in making t hem/confidants, w henever the enactments of their rulers areWcretly set at nought. The substance from which the liquor is produced is called "Tee," which is a large, fibrous root, something like a yam, but smaller. In its green state, it is exceed- ingly acrid ; but boiled or baked has the sweetness of the sugar-cane. After being subjected to the fire, ma- cerated, and reduced to a certain stage of fermentation, the " Tee " is stirred up with water, and is then ready for distillation. On returning to the hut, pipes were introduced ; and, after a while, Long Ghost, who, at first, had relished the "Arva Tee " as little as myself, to my surprise, began to wax sociable over it with Varvy ; and before long ab- solutely got mellow, the old toper keeping him com- pany. ^ ^ It was a curious sight. Every one knows, that, so long as the occasion lasts, there is no stronger bona of sympathy and good feeling amoW men than getting tipsy together. And how earnestiy^^nay? moA»mgly, a 316 omoo. brace of worthies thus employed will endeavour to shed light upon and elucidate their mystical ideas ! Fancy Varvy and the doctor, then ; lovingly tippling, and brimming over with a desire to become better ac- quainted ; the doctor politely bent upon carrying on the conversation in the language of his host, and the old hermit persisting in trying to talk English. The result was, that between the two, they made such a fricassee of vowels and consonants, that it was enough to turn one's brain. The next morning, on waking, I heard a voice from the tombs. It was the doctor, solemnly pronouncing himself a dead man. He was sitting up, with both hands clasped over his forehead, and his pale face a thousand times paler than ever. '* That infernal stuff has murdered me ! " he cried. " Heavens ! my head's jj j_ wheels and sprin gs, like the automaton chess-pla yer ! What's to be done, Paul ? Tm poisoned." But, after drinking an herbal draught, concocted by our host, and eating a light meal at noon, he felt much better ; so much so, that he declared himself ready to continue our journey. When we came to start, the Yankee's boots were miss- ing ; and after a diligent search, were not to be found. Enraged beyond measure, their proprietor said that Varvy must have stolen them ; but, considering his hos- pitality, I thought this extremely inprobable, though to whom else to impute the theft I knew not. The doc- tor maintained, however, that one who was capable of drugging an innocent traveller with " Arva Tee " was capable of anything. But it was in vain that he stormed, and Varvy and I searched ; the boots were gone. OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE. 317 Were it not for this mysterious occurrence, and Varvy's detestable liquors, I would here recommend all travellers going round by the beach to Partoowye to stop at the Rock and patronize the old gentleman — the more especially as he entertains gratis. -+ rrfcX CHAPTER lIxIIL OUR RECEPTION EST PARTOOWYE. Upon starting, at last, I flung away my sandals — by this time quite worn out — with the view of keeping company with the doctor, now forced to go barefooted. Recovering his spirits in good time, he protested that boots were a bore after all, and going without them de- cidely manly. This was said, be it observed, while strolling along over a soft carpet of grass ; a little moist, even at mid- day, from the shade of the wood through which we were passing. Emerging from this, we entered upon a blank, sandy tract, upon which the sun's rays fairly flashed ; making the loose gravel under foot well-nigh as hot as the floor of an oven. Such yelling and leaping as there was in getting over this ground would be hard to surpass. We could not have crossed at all — until towards sunset — had it not been for a few small, wiry bushes, growing here and there ; into which we every now and then thrust our feet to cool. There was no little judgment necessary in selecting your bush ; for if not chosen judi- ciously, the chances were, that on springing forward again, and finding the next bush so far off that an inter- 318 omoo. mediate cooling was indispensable, you would have to run back to your old place again. Safely passing the Sahara, or Fiery Desert, we soothed our half-blistered feet by a pleasant walk through a meadow of long grass, which soon brought us in sight of a few straggling houses, sheltered by a grove on the outskirts of the village of Partoowye. My comrade was for entering the first one we came to ; but, on drawing near, they had so much an air of pretension, at least for native dwellings, that I hesitated; thinking they might be the residences of the higher chiefs, from whom no very extravagant welcome was to be anticipated. While standing irresolute, a voice from the nearest house hailed us : " Aramai ! aramai, karhowree ! " (" Come in ! come in, strangers ! ") We at once entered, and were warmly greeted. The master of the house was an aristocratic-looking islander; dressed in loose linen drawers, a fine white shirt, and a sash of red silk tied about the waist, after the fashion of the Spaniards in Chili. He came up to us with a free, frank air, and, striking his chest with his hand, intro- duced himself as Ereemear Po-Po ; or to render the Christian name back again into English — Jeremiah Po- Po. These curious combinations of names, among the peo- ple of the Society Islands, originate in the following way. When a native is baptized, his patronymic often gives offence to the missionaries, and they insist upon changing to something else whatever is objectionable therein. So, when Jeremiah came to the font, and gave his name as Narmo-Nana Po-Po (something equivalent to The-Darer-of-Devils-by-Night), the, reverend gentle- man officiating told him that such a heathenish appella* OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE. 319 tion would never do, and a substitute must be had ; at least for the devil part of it. Some highly respectable Christian appellations were then submitted, from which the candidate for admission into the church was at lib- erty to choose. There was Adamo (Adam), Nooar (Noah), Daveedar (David), Earcobar (James), Eorna (John), Patoora (Peter), Ereemear (Jeremiah), etc. And thus did he come to be named Jeremiah Po-Po ; or Jeremiah-in-the-Dark — which he certainly was, I fancy, as to the ridiculousness of his new cogomen. We gave our names in return ; upon which he bade us be seated ; and sitting down himself, asked us a great many questions, in mixed English and Tahitian. After giving some directions to an old man to prepare food, our host's wife, a large, benevolent-looking women, up- wards of forty, also sat down by us. In our soiled and travel-stained appearance, the good lady seemed to find abundant matter for commiseration ; and all the while kept looking at us piteously, and making mournful ex- clamations. But Jeremiah and his spouse were not the only inmates of the mansion. In one corner, upon a large native couch, elevated upon posts, reclined a nymph ; who, half- veiled in her own long hair, had yet to make her toilet for the day. She was the only daughter of Po-Po ; and a very beau- tiful little daughter she was ; not more than fourteen ; with the most delightful shape — like a bud just blown ; and large hazel eyes. They called her Loo : a name rather pretty and genteel, and, therefore, quite appropri- ate ; for a more genteel and lady-like little damsel there was not in all Imeeo. She was a cold and haughty young beauty though, this game little Loo, and never deigned to notice us ; further 320 omoo. than now and then to let her eyes float over our persons, with an expression of indolent indifference. With the tears of the Loohooloo girls hardly dry from their sob- bing upon our shoulders, this contemptuous treatment stung us not a little. When we first entered, Po-Po was raking smooth the carpet of dried ferns which had that morning been newly laid ; and now that our meal was ready, it was spread on a banana leaf, right upon this fragrant floor. Here we lounged at our ease ; eating baked pig and bread- fruit off earthen plates, and using, for the first time in many a long month, real knives and forks. These, as well as other symptoms of refinement, some- what abated our surprise at the reserve of the little Loo : her parents, doubtless, were magnates in Partoowye, and she herself was an heiress. After being informed of our stay in the vale of Mar- tair, they were very curious to know on what errand we came to Taloo. We merely hinted, that the ship lying in the harbour was the reason of our coming. Arfretee, Po-Po's wife, was a right motherly body. The meal over, she recommended a nap; and upon our waking much refreshed, she led us to the doorway, and pointed down among the trees ; through which we saw the gleam of water. Taking the hint, we repaired thither ; and finding a deep shady pool, bathed, and re- turned to the house. Our hostess now sat down by us ; and after looking with great interest at the doctor's cloak, felt of my own soiled and tattered garments for the hundredth time, and exclaimed plaintively — "Ah nuee nuee olee manee ! olee manee ! " (Alas ! they are very, very old ! very old !) When Arfretee, good soul, thus addressed us, she thought she was talking very respectable English. The OUR RECEPTION IN PARTOOWYE. 321 word " nuee " is so familiar to foreigners throughout Polynesia, and is so often used by them in their inter- course with the natives, that the latter suppose it to be common to all mankind. " Olee manee " is the native pronunciation of " old mans" which, by Society Islanders talking Saxon, is applied indiscriminately to all aged things and persons whatsoever. Going to a chest filled with various European articles, she took out two suits of new sailor frocks and trousers ; and presenting them with a gracious smile, pushed us behind a calico screen, and left us. Without any fas- tidious scruples, we donned the garments ; and what with the meal, the nap, and the bath, we now came forth like a couple of bridegrooms. Evening drawing on, lamps were lighted. They were very simple : the half of a green melon, about one-third full of cocoa-nut oil, and a wick of twisted tappa floating on the surface. As a night lamp, this contrivance can- not be excelled ; a soft dreamy light being shed through the transparent rind. As the evening advanced, other members of the house- hold, whom as yet we had not seen, began to drop in. There was a slender young dandy in a gay striped shirt, and whole fathoms of bright figured calico tucked about his waist, and falling to the ground. He wore a new straw hat, also, with three distinct ribbons tied about the crown ; one black, one green, and one pink. Shoes or stockings, however, he had none. There were a couple of delicate, olive-cheeked little girls — twins — with mild eyes and beautiful hair, who ran about the house, half-naked, like a couple of gazelles. They had a brother, somewhat younger — a fine dark boy, with an eye like a woman's. All these were the children of Po-Po, begotten in lawful wedlock 322 omoo. Then there were two or three queer-looking old ladies, who wore shabby mantles of soiled sheeting ; which fitted so badly, and withal had such a second-hand look, that I at once put their wearers down as domestic paupers — poor relations, supported by the bounty of my lady Arfretee. They were sad, meek old bodies ; said little and ate less ; and either kept their eyes on the ground, or lifted them up deferentially. The semi- civilisation of the island must have had something to do with making them what they were. I had almost forgotten Monee, the grinning old man who prepared our meal. His head was a shining, bald globe. He had a round little paunch, and legs like a cat. He was Po-Po's factotum — cook, butler, and climber of the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees ; and, added to all else, a mighty favourite with his mistress ; with whom he would sit smoking and gossiping by the hour. Often you saw the indefatigable Monee working away at a great rate ; then dropping his employment all at once — never mind what — run off to a little distance, and after rolling himself away in a corner, and taking a nap, jump up again, and fall to with fresh vigour. From a certain something in the behaviour of Po-Po and his household, I was led to believe that he was a pillar of the church ; though, from what I had seen in Tahiti, I could hardly reconcile such a supposition with his frank, cordial, unembarrassed air. But I was not wrong in my conjecture : Po-Po turned out to be a sort of elder, or deacon ; he was also accounted a man of wealth, and was nearly related to a high chief. Before retiring, the entire household gathered upon the floor ; and in their midst, he read aloud a chapter from a Tahitian Bible. Then, kneeling with the rest of us, he offered up a prayer. Upon its conclusion, all RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. 323 separated without speaking. These devotions took place regularly every night and morning. Grace, too, was invariably said by this family both before and after eating. After becoming familiarised with the almost utter destitution of anything like practical piety upon these islands, what I observed in our host's house astonished me much. But whatever others might have been, Po-Po was, in truth, a Christian : the only one, Arfretee ex- cepted, whom I personally knew to be such, among all the natives of Polynesia. CHAPTER LXXIV. RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. — THE DOCTOR GROWS DEVOUT. They put us to bed very pleasantly. Lying across the foot of Po-Po's nuptial couch was a smaller one, made of Koar-wood ; a thin, strong cord, twisted from the fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, and woven into an exceedingly light sort of net-work, form- ing its elastic body. Spread upon this was a single, fine mat, with a roll of dried ferns for a pillow, and a strip of white tappa for a sheet. This couch was mine. The doctor was provided for in another corner. Loo reposed alone on a little settee, with a taper burning by her side ; the dandy, her brother, swinging overhead in a sailor's hammock. The two gazelles frisked upon a mat near by ; and the indigent relations borrowed a scant corner of the old butler's pallet, who snored away by the open door. After all had retired, 324 omoo. Po-Po placed the illuminated melon in the middle of the apartment ; and so, we all slumbered till morning. Upon awaking, the sun was streaming brightly through the open bamboos, but no one was stirring. After sur- veying the fine attitudes, into which forgetfulness had thrown at least one of the sleepers, my attention was called off to the general aspect of the dwelling, which was quite significant of the superior circumstances of our host. The house itself was built in the simple, but tasteful native style. It was a long, regular oval, some fifty feet in length, with low sides of cane-work, and a roof thatched with palmetto leaves. The ridge-pole was per- haps twenty feet from the ground. There was no foun- dation whatever ; the bare earth being merely covered with ferns : a kind of carpeting which serves very well, if frequently renewed ; otherwise, it becomes dusty, and the haunt of vermin, as it is in the huts of the poorer natives. Beside the couches, the furniture consisted of three or four sailor chests ; in which were stored the fine wearing-apparel of the household — the ruffled linen shirts of Po-Po, the calico dresses of his wife and chil- dren, and divers odds and ends of European articles — strings of beads, ribbons, Dutch looking-glasses, knives, coarse prints, bunches of keys, bits of crockery, and metal buttons. One of these chests — used as a bandbox by Arf re tee — contained several of the native hats (coal- scuttles), all of the same pattern, but trimmed with va- riously coloured ribbons. Of nothing was our good hostess more proud than of these hats, and her dresses. On Sundays, she went abroad a dozen times ; and every time, like Queen Elizabeth, in a different robe. Po-Po, for some reason or other, always gave us BETIRING FOR THE NIGHT. 325 our meals before the rest of the family were served ; and the doctor, who was very discerning in such matters, declared that we fared much better than they. Certain it was, that had Ereemear's guests travelled with purses, portmanteaux, and letters of introduction to the queen, they could not have been better cared for. The day after our arrival, Monee, the old butler, brought us in for dinner a small pig, baked in the ground. All savoury, it lay in a wooden trencher, sur- rounded by roasted hemispheres of the bread-fruit. A large calabash, filled with taro pudding, or poee, fol- lowed ; and the young dandy, overcoming his customary languor, threw down our cocoa-nuts from an adjoining tree. When all was ready, and the household looking on, Long Ghost, devoutly clasping his hands over the fated pig, implored a blessing. Hereupon everybody present looked exceedingly pleased ; Po-Po coming up, and ad- dressing the doctor with much warmth; and Arfretee, regarding him with almost maternal affection, exclaimed delightedly, "Ah! mickonaree tata maitai ! " in other words, " What a pious young man ! " It was just after this meal, that she brought me a roll of grass sinnate (of the kind which sailors sew into the frame of their tarpaulins), and then, handing me a needle and thread, bade me begin at once, and make myself the hat which I so much needed. An accomplished hand at the business, I finished it that day — merely stitching the braid together ; and Arfretee, by way of rewarding my industry, with her own olive hands orna- mented the crown with a band of flame-coloured ribbon, the two long ends of which, streaming behind, sailor- fashion, still preserved for me the Eastern title bestowed by Long Ghost. 326 omoo. CHAPTER LXXV. A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT. The following morning, making our toilets carefully, we donned our sombreros, and sallied out on a tour. Without meaning to reveal our designs upon the court, our principal object was, to learn what chances there were for white men to obtain employment under the queen. On this head, it is true, we had questioned Po-Po; but his answers had been very discouraging; so we determined to obtain further information else- where. But first, to give some little description of the village. The settlement of Partoowye is nothing more than some eighty houses, scattered here and there, in the midst of an immense grove, where the trees have been thinned out, and the underbrush cleared away. Through the grove flows a stream ; and the principal avenue crosses it, over an elastic bridge of cocoa-nut trunks, laid together side by side. The avenue is broad and serpentine ; well shaded, from one end to the other ; and as pretty a place for a morning promenade as any lounger could wish. The houses, constructed without the slightest regard to the road, peep into view from among the trees on either side ; some looking you right in the face as you pass, and others, without any man- ners, turning their backs. Occasionally, you observe a rural retreat, enclosed by a picket of bamboos, or with a solitary pane of glass massively framed in the broad- side of the dwelling, or with a rude, strange-looking A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT. 327 door, swinging upon dislocated wooden hinges. Other- wise, the dwellings are built in the original style of the natives ; and, never mind how mean and filthy some of them may appear within, they all look picturesque enough without. As we sauntered along, the people we met saluted us pleasantly, and invited us into their houses ; and in this way we made a good many brief morning calls. But the hour could not have been the fashionable one in Partoowye ; since the ladies were invariably in disha- bille. However, they in all cases gave us a cordial reception, and were particularly polite to the doctor ; caressing him, and amorously hanging about his neck ; wonderfully taken up, in short, with a gay handkerchief he wore there. Arfretee had that morning bestowed it upon the pious youth. With some exceptions, the general appearance of the natives of Partoowye was far better than that of the inhabitants of Papeetee : a circumstance only to be imputed to their restricted intercourse with foreign- ers. Strolling on, we turned a sweep of the road, when the doctor gave a start ; and no wonder. Right before us, in the grove, was a block of houses : regular square frames, boarded over, furnished with windows and door- ways, and two stories high. We ran up, and found them fast going to decay ; very dingy, and here and there covered with moss ; no sashes nor doors ; and on one side, the entire block had settled down nearly a foot. On going into the basement, we looked clean up through the unboarded timbers to the roof ; where rays of light, glimmering through many a chink, illuminated the cobwebs which swung all round. The whole interior was dark and close. Burrowing 328 omoo. among some old mats in one corner, like a parcel of gypsies in a ruin, were a few vagabond natives. They had their dwelling here. Curious to know who on earth could have been thus trying to improve the value of real estate in Partoowye, we made inquiries ; and learned that some years pre- vious, the block had been thrown up by a verit- able Yankee (one might have known that), a house carpenter by trade, and a bold enterprising fellow by nature. Put ashore from his ship, sick, he first went to work and got well ; then sallied out with chisel and plane, and made himself generally useful. A sober, steady man, it seems, he at last obtained the Confidence of several chiefs, and soon filled them with all sorts of ideas concerning the alarming want of public spirit in the people of Imeeo. More especially did he dwell upon the humiliating fact of their living in paltry huts of bamboo, when magnificent palaces of boards might so be easily morticed together. In the end, these representations so far prevailed with one old chief, that the carpenter was engaged to build a batch of these wonderful palaces. Provided with plenty of men, he at once set to work ; built a saw-mill among the mountains, felled trees, and sent over to Papeetee for nails. Presto ! the castle rose ; but alas, the roof was hardly on, when the Yankee's patron, having speculated be- yond his means, broke all to pieces, and was absolutely unable to pay one " plug " of tobacco in the pound. His failure involved the carpenter, who sailed away from his creditors in the very next ship that touched at the harbour. The natives despised the rickety palace of boards; A RAMBLE THROUGH THE SETTLEMENT. 329 and often lounged by, wagging their heads, and jeer- ing. We were told that the queen's residence was at the extreme end of the village ; so, without waiting for the doctor to procure a fiddle, we suddenly resolved upon going thither at once, and learning whether any privy councillorships were vacant. Now, although there was a good deal of my waggish comrade's nonsense about what has been said concern- ing our expectations of court preferment, we, neverthe- less, really thought that something to our advantage might turn up in that quarter. On approaching the palace grounds, we found them rather peculiar. A broad pier of hewn coral rocks was built right out into the water ; and upon this, and extending into a grove adjoining, were some eight or ten very large native houses, constructed in the hand- somest style, and enclosed together by a low picket of bamboos, which embraced a considerable area. Throughout the Society Islands, the residences of the chiefs are mostly found in the immediate vicinity of the sea ; a site which gives them the full benefit of a cooling breeze ; nor are they so liable to the annoyance of insects ; besides enjoying when they please the fine shade afforded by the neighbouring groves, always most luxuriant near the water. Lounging about the grounds were some sixty or eighty handsomely dressed natives, men and women ; some reclining on the shady side of the houses, others under the trees, and a small group conversing close by the railing, facing us. We went up to the latter; and giving the usual salutation, were on the point of vaulting over the bamboos, when they turned upon us angrily, and said 330 omoo. we could not enter. We stated our earnest desire to see the queen ; hinting that we were bearers of impor- tant dispatches. But it was to no purpose ; and not a little vexed, we were obliged to return to Po-Po's without effecting anything. CHAPTER LXXVI. AN ISLAND JILT. — WE VISIT THE SHIP. Upon arriving home, we fully laid open to Po-Po our motives in visiting Taloo, and begged his friendly ad- vice. In his broken English, he cheerfully gave us all the information we needed. It was true, he said, that the queen entertained some idea of making a stand against the French; and it was currently reported, also, that several chiefs from Borabora, Huwyenee, Raiatair, and Tahar, the lee- ward islands of the group, were at that very time tak- ing counsel with her, as to the expediency of organising a general movement throughout the entire cluster, with a view of anticipating any further encroachments on the part of the invaders. Should warlike measures be actu- ally decided upon, it was quite certain that Pomaree would be glad to enlist all the foreigners she could ; but as to her making officers of either the doctor or me, that was out of the question ; because, already, a number of Europeans, well known to her, had volunteered as such. Concerning our getting immediate access to the queen, Po-Po told us it was rather doubtful ; she living at that time very retired, in poor health and spirits, and averse AN ISLAND JILT. 331 to receiving calls. Previous to her misfortunes, how- ever, no one, however humble, was denied admittance to her presence ; sailors, even, attended her levees. Not at all disheartened by these things, we concluded to kill time in Partoowye, until some event turned up more favourable to our projects. So that very day we sallied out on an excursion to the ship, which, lying land-locked, far up the bay, yet remained to be visited. Passing, on our route, a long, low shed, a voice hailed us — " White men, ahoy ! " Turning round, who should we see but a rosy-cheeked Englishman (you could tell his country at a glance), up to his knees in shavings, and planing away at a bench. He turned out to be a runaway ship's carpenter, recently from Tahiti, and now doing a profitable business in Imeeo, by fitting up the dwellings of opulent chiefs with cupboards and other conveniences, and once in a while trying his hand at a lady's work-box. He had been in the settlement but a few months, and already possessed houses and lands. But though blessed with prosperity and high health, there was one thing wanting — a wife. And when he came to speak of the matter, his countenance fell, and he leaned dejectedly upon his plane. " It's too bad ! " he sighed, " to wait three long years ; and all the while dear little Lullee living in the same house with that infernal chief from Tahar ! " Our curiosity was piqued ; the poor carpenter, then, had been falling in love with some island coquette, who was going to jilt him. But such was not the case. There was a law prohib- iting, under a heavy penalty, the marriage of a native with a foreigner, unless the latter, after being three years a resident on the island, was willing to affirm his settled intention of remaining for life. 332 omoo. William was therefore in a sad way. He told us that he might have married the girl half-a-dozen times, had it not been for this odious law ; but, latterly, she had be* come less loving and more giddy, particularly with the strangers from Tahar. Desperately smitten, and de- sirous of securing her at all hazards, he had proposed to the damsel's friends a nice little arrangement, introduc- tory to marriage; but they would not hear of it; be- sides, if the pair were discovered living together upon such a footing, they would be liable to a degrading pun- ishment, — sent to work making stone walls and opening roads for the queen. Doctor Long Ghost was all sympathy. " Bill, my good fellow," said he, tremulously, " let me go and talk to her." But Bill, declining the offer, would not even inform us where his charmer lived. Leaving the disconsolate Willie planing a plank of New Zealand pine (an importation from the Bay of Islands), and thinking the while of Lullee, we went on our way. How his suit prospered in the end, we never learned. Going from Po-Po's house towards the anchorage of the harbour of Taloo, you catch no glimpse of the water, until coming out from deep groves, you all at once find yourself upon the beach. A bay, considered by many voyagers the most beautiful in the South Seas, then lies before you. You stand upon one side of what seems a deep, green river, flowing through mountain passes to the sea. Right opposite, a majestic promontory divides the inlet from another, called after its discoverer, Cap- tain Cook. The face of this promontory toward Taloo is one verdant wall ; and at its base the waters lie still, and fathomless. On the left hand, you just catch a peep of the widening mouth of the bay, the break in the reef AN ISLAND JILT. 333 by which ships enter, and beyond, the sea. To the right, the inlet, sweeping boldly round the promontory, runs far away into the land ; where, save in one direc- tion, the hills close in on every side, knee-deep in ver- dure, and shooting aloft in grotesque peaks. The open space lies at the head of the bay; in the distance it extends into a broad, hazy plain lying at the foot of an amphitheatre of hills. Here is the large sugar planta- tion previously alluded to. Beyond the first range of hills, you descry the sharp pinnacles of the interior ; and among these, the same silent Marling-spike which we so often admired from the other side of the island. All alone in the harbour lay the good ship Leviathan. We jumped into the canoe, and paddled off to her. Though early in the afternoon, everything was quiet; but upon mounting the side, we found four or five sailors lounging about the forecastle, under an awning. They gave us no very cordial reception ; and though otherwise quite hearty in appearance, seemed to assume a look of ill-humour on purpose to honour our arrival. There was much eagerness to learn whether we wanted to "ship" ; and by the unpleasant accounts they gave of the vessel, they seemed desirous to prevent such a thing, if possible. We asked where the rest of the ship's company were ; a gruff old fellow made answer, " One boat's crew of 'em is gone to Davy Jones's locker : — went off after a whale, last cruise, and never came back agin. All the starboard watch • ran away last night, and the skipper's ashore kitching 'em." " And it's shipping yer after, my jewels, is it ? " cried a curly-pated little Belfast sailor, coming up to us, " thin arrah ! my livelies, jist be after sailing ashore in a jiffy : — the devil of a skipper will carry yees both to 334 omoo. sea, whether or no. Be off wid ye, thin, darlints, and steer clear of the likes of this ballyhoo of blazes as long as ye live. They murther us here every day, and starve us into the bargain. Here, Dick, lad, harl the poor divils' canow alongside ; and paddle away wid yees for dear life." But we loitered awhile, listening to more inducements to ship ; and at last concluded to stay to supper. My sheath-knife never cut into better sea-beef than that which we found lying in the kid in the forecastle. The bread, too, was hard, dry, and brittle as glass ; and there was plenty of both. While we were below, the mate of the vessel called out for some one to come on deck. I liked his voice. Hearing it was as good as a look at his face. It beto- kened a true sailor, and no taskmaster. The appearance of the Leviathan herself was quite pleasing. Like all large, comfortable old whalemen, she had a sort of motherly look : — broad in the beam, flush decks, and four chubby boats hanging at the breast. Her sails were furled loosely upon the yards, as if they had been worn long, and fitted easy ; her shrouds swung negligently slack ; and as for the " running rigging," it never worked hard as it does in some of your " dandy ships," jamming in the sheaves of blocks, like Chinese slippers, too small to be useful ; on the contrary, the ropes ran glibly through, as if they had many a time travelled the same road, and were used to it. When evening came, we dropped into our canoe, and paddled ashore ; fully convinced that the good ship never deserved the name which they gave her. A PARTY OF ROVERS. 335 CHAPTER LXXVII. A PARTY OF ROVERS. — LITTLE LOO AND THE DOCTOR. While in Partoowye, we fell in with a band of six yeteran rovers, prowling about the village and harbour, who had just come overland from another part of the island. A few weeks previous, they had been paid off, at Papeetee, from a whaling vessel, on board of which they had, six months before, shipped for a single cruise ; that is to say, to be discharged at the next port. Their cruise was a famous one ; and each man stepped upon the beach at Tahiti, jingling his dollars in a sock. Weary at last of the shore, and having some money left, they clubbed, and purchased a sail-boat ; proposing a visit to a certain uninhabited island, concerning which they had heard strange and golden stories. Of course, they never could think of going to sea without a med- icine-chest filled with flasks of spirits, and a small cask of the same in the hold, in case the chest should give out. Away they sailed ; hoisted a flag of their own, and gave three times three, as they staggered out of the bay of Papeetee with a strong breeze, and under all the " muslin " they could carry. Evening coming on, and feeling in high spirits, and no ways disposed to sleep, they concluded to make a night of it ; which they did ; all hands getting tipsy, and the two masts going over the side about midnight, to the tune of "Sailing down, sailing down, On the coast of Barbaree." 336 omoo. Fortunately, one worthy could stand, by holding on to the tiller ; and the rest managed to crawl about, and hack away the lanyards of the rigging, so as to break clear from the fallen spars. While thus employed, two sailors got tranquilly over the side, and went plumb to the bottom ; under the erroneous impression, that they were stepping upon a wharf, to get at their work better. After this, it blew quite a gale ; and the commodore, at the helm, instinctively kept the boat before the wind; and by so doing, ran over for the opposite island of Imeeo. Crossing the channel, by almost a miracle they went straight through an opening in the reef, and shot upon a ledge of coral, where the waters were tolerably smooth. Here they lay until morning, when the natives came off to them in their canoes. By the help of the islanders, the schooner was hove over on her beam-ends ; when, finding the bottom knocked to pieces, the adven- turers sold the boat for a trifle to the chief of the dis- trict, and went ashore, rolling before them their precious cask of spirits. Its contents soon evaporated, and they came to Partoowye. The day after encountering these fellows, we were strolling among the groves in the neighbourhood, when we came across several parties of natives, armed with clumsy muskets, rusty cutlasses, and outlandish clubs. They were beating the bushes, shouting aloud, and apparently trying to scare somebody. They were in pursuit of the strangers, who, having in a single night set at naught all the laws of the place, had thought best to decamp. In the daytime, Po-Po's house was as pleasant a lounge as one could wish. So, after strolling about, and seeing all there was to be seen, we spent the greater part of our mornings there ; breakfasting late, and dining about A PARTY OF ROVERS. 337 two hours after noon. Sometimes we lounged on the floor of ferns, smoking, and telling stones ; of which the doctor had as many as a half-pay captain in the army. Sometimes we chatted, as well as we could, with the natives ; and, one day — joy to us ! — Po-Po brought in three volumes of Smollett's novels, which had been found in the chest of a sailor, who some time previous had died on the island. Amelia ! — Peregrine ! — you hero of rogues, Count Fathom, — what a debt do we owe you ! I know not whether it was the reading of these romances, or the want of some sentimental pastime which led the doctor, about this period, to lay siege to the heart of the little Loo. Now, as I have said before, the daughter of Po-Po was most cruelly reserved, and never deigned to notice us. Frequently I addressed her with a long face and an air of the profoundest and most distant respect — but in vain ; she wouldn't even turn up her pretty olive nose. Ah ! it's quite plain, thought I ; she knows very well what graceless dogs sailors are, and won't have any- thing to do with us. But thus thought not my comrade. Bent he was upon firing the cold glitter of Loo's passionless eyes. He opened the campaign with admirable tact: making cautious approaches, and content, for three days, with ogling the nymph for about five minutes after every meal. On the fourth day, he asked her a question ; on the fifth she dropped a nut of ointment, and he picked it up and gave it to her ; on the sixth, he went over and sat down within three yards of the couch where she lay ; and, on the memorable morn of the seventh, he pro- ceeded to open his batteries in form. The damsel was reclining on the ferns ; one hand sup* 338 omoo. porting her cheek, and the other listlessly turning over the leaves of a Tahitian Bible. The doctor approached. Now the chief disadvantage under which he laboured, was his almost complete ignorance of the love vocabu- lary of the island. But French counts, they say, make love delightfully in broken English ; and what hindered the doctor from doing the same in dulcet Tahitian? So at it he went. " Ah ! " said he, smiling bewitchingly, " oee micko- naree ? oee ready Biblee ? " No answer ; not even a look. " Ah ! maitai ! very goody ready Biblee mickonaree." Loo, without stirring, began reading, in a low tone, to herself. " Mickonaree Biblee ready goody maitai," once more observed the doctor, ingeniously transposing his words for the third time. But all to no purpose ; Loo gave no sign. He paused despairingly; but it would never do to give up ; so he threw himself at full length beside her, and audaciously commenced turning over the leaves. Loo gave a start, just one little start, barely percepti- ble, and then fumbling something in her hand, lay per- fectly motionless ; the doctor rather frightened at his own temerity, and knowing not what to do next. At last, he placed one arm cautiously about her waist ; almost in the same instant he bounded to his feet, with a cry ; the little witch had pierced him with a thorn. But there she lay just as quietly as ever, turning over the leaves, and reading to herself. My long friend raised the siege incontinently, and made a disorderly retreat to the place where I reclined, looking on. I am pretty sure that Loo must have related this MBS. BELL. 339 occurrence to her father, who came in shortly afterward ; for he looked queerly at the doctor. But he said noth- ing, and in ten minutes was quite affable as ever. As for Loo, there was not the slightest change in her ; and the doctor, of course, for ever afterwards held his peace. CHAPTER LXXVIII. MRS. BELL. One day, taking a pensive afternoon stroll along one of the many bridle-paths which wind among the shady groves in the neighbourhood of Taloo, I was startled by a sunny apparition. It was that of a beautiful young Englishwoman, charmingly dressed, and mounted upon a spirited little white pony. Switching a green branch, she came cantering towards me. I looked round me to see whether I could possibly be in Polynesia. There were the palm-trees ; but how to account for the lady? Stepping to one side, as the apparition drew near, I made a polite obeisance. It gave me a bold, rosy look ; and then, with a gay air, patted its palfrey, crying out, " Fly away, Willie ! " and galloped among the trees. I would have followed ; but Willie's heels were mak- ing snch a pattering among the dry leaves, that pur- suit would have been useless. So I went straight home to Po-Po's, and related my adventure to the doctor. The next day, our inquiries resulted in finding out, that the stranger had been in the island about two 340 omoo. years ; that she came from Sydney ; and was the wife of Mr. Bell (happy dog), the proprietor of the sugar plantation, to which I have previously referred. To the sugar plantation we went the same day. The country round about was very beautiful : a level basin of verdure, surrounded by sloping hillsides. The sugar-cane — of which there are about one hundred acres, in various stages of cultivation — looked thrifty. A considerable tract of land, however, which seemed to have been formerly tilled, was now abandoned. The place where they extracted the saccharine mat- ter was under an immense shed of bamboos. Here we saw several clumsy pieces of machinery for breaking the cane ; also great kettles for boiling the sugar. But, at present, nothing was going on. Two or three natives were lounging in one of the kettles, smoking ; the other was occupied by three sailors from the Leviathan, play- ing cards. While we were conversing with these worthies, a stranger approached. He was a sun-burnt, romantic- looking European, dressed in a loose suit of nankeen ; his fine throat and chest were exposed, and he sported a Guayaquil hat, with a brim like a Chinese umbrella. This was Mr. Bell. He was very civil ; showed us the grounds, and, taking us into a sort of arbour, to our surprise, offered to treat us to some wine. People often do the like ; but Mr. Bell did more : he produced the bottle. It was spicy sherry ; and we drank out of the halves of fresh citron melons. Delectable gob- lets ! The wine was a purchase from the French in Tahiti. Now all this was extremely polite in Mr. Bell ; still, we came to see Mrs. Bell. But she proved to be a phantom, indeed, having left the same morning for TALOO CHAPEL. 341 Papeetee, on a visit to one of the missionaries' wives there. I went home much chagrined. To be frank, my curiosity had been wonderfully piqued concerning the lady. In the first place, she was the most beautiful white woman I ever saw in Polynesia. But this is saying nothing. She had such eyes, such moss-roses in her cheeks, such a divine air in the saddle, that, to my dying day, I shall never forget Mrs. The sugar-planter himself was young, rpfcust, and handsome. So, merrily may the little Bells increase and multiply, and make music in the land ofilmeeo. CHAPTER LXXIX. TALOO CHAPEL. — HOLDING COURT IN POLYNESIA In Partoowye is to be seen one of the best constructed and handsomest chapels in the South Seas. Like the buildings of the palace, it stands upon an artificial pier, presenting a semicircular sweep to the bay. The chapel is built of hewn blocks of coral; a substance which, although extremely friable, is said to harden by expo- sure to the atmosphere. To a stranger, these blocks look extremely curious. Their surface is covered with strange fossil-like impressions, the seal of which must have been set before the flood. Very nearly white when hewn from the reefs, the coral darkens with age ; so that several churches in Polynesia now look almost as sooty and venerable as famed St. Paul's. In shape, the chapel is an octagon, with galleries all 342 omoo. round. It will seat, perhaps, four hundred people. Everything within is stained a tawny red; and there being but few windows, or rather embrasures, the dusky benches and galleries, and the tall spectre of a pulpit, look anything but cheerful. On Sundays, we always went to worship here. Go- ing in the family suite of Po-Po, we, of course, main- tained a most decorous exterior ; and hence, by all the elderly people of the village, were doubtless regarded as pattern young men. Po-Po's seat was in a snug corner ; and it being particularly snug, in the immediate vicinity of one of the palm pillars supporting the gallery, I invariably leaned against it : Po-Po and his lady on one side, the doctor and the dandy on the other, and the children and poor relations seated behind. As for Loo, instead of sitting (as she ought to have done) by her good father and mother, she must needs run up into the gallery, and sit with a parcel of giddy creatures of her own age ; who, all through the sermon, did nothing but look down on the congregation ; point- ing out, and giggling at the queer-looking old ladies in dowdy bonnets and scant tunics. But Loo herself was never guilty of these improprieties. Occasionally during the week, they have afternoon service in the chapel, when the natives themselves have something to say ; although their auditors are but few. An introductory prayer being offered by the missionary, and a hymn sung, communicants rise in their places, and exhort in pure Tahitian, and with wonderful tone and gesture. And among them all, Deacon Po-Po, though he talked most, was the one whom you would have liked best to hear. Much would I have given to have under- stood some of his impassioned bursts ; when he tossed TALOO CHAPEL. 343 his arms overhead, stamped, scowled, and glared, till he looked like the very Angel of Vengeance. " Deluded man ! " sighed the doctor, on one of these occasions, " I fear he takes the fanatical view of the subject." One thing was certain ; when Po-Po spoke, all listened ; a great deal more than could be said for the rest; for under the discipline of two or three I could mention, some of the audience napped ; others fidgeted ; a few yawned; and one irritable old gentleman, in a night-cap of cocoa-nut leaves, used to clutch his long staff in a state of excessive nervousness, and stride out of the church, making all the noise he could, to emphasise his disgust. Right adjoining the chapel is an immense, rickety building, with windows and shutters, and a half-decayed board flooring laid upon trunks of palm-trees. They called it a school-house ; but as such we never saw it oc- cupied. It was often used as a court-room, however; and here we attended several trials ; among others, that of a decayed naval officer, and a young girl of fourteen; the latter, charged with having been very naughty on a particular occasion, set forth in the pleadings ; and the former, with having aided and abetted her in her naugh- tiness, and with other misdemeanours. The foreigner was a tall, military-looking fellow, with a dark cheek and black whiskers. According to his own account, he had lost a colonial armed brig on the coast of New Zealand ; and since then, had been leading the life of a man about town, among the islands of the Pacific. The doctor wanted to know why he did not go home and report the loss of his brig ; but Captain Crash, as they called him, had some incomprehensible reasons for not doing so, about which he could talk by the hour, and 344 omoo. no one be any the wiser. Probably, he was a discreet man, and thought it best to waive an interview with the lords of the admiralty. For some time past, this extremely suspicious charac- ter had been carrying on an illicit trade in French wines and brandies, smuggled oyer from the men-of-war lately touching at Tahiti. In a grove near the anchorage, he had a rustic shanty and arbour ; where, in quiet times, when no ships were in Taloo, a stray native once in a while got boozy, and staggered home, catching at the cocoa-nut trees as he went. The captain himself lounged under a tree during the warm afternoons, pipe in mouth ; thinking, perhaps, over old times, and occasionally feel- ing his shoulders for his lost epaulets. But, sail ho! a ship is descried coming into the bay. Soon, she drops her anchor in its waters ; and the next day Captain Crash entertains the sailors in his grove. And rare times they have of it, — drinking and quarrel- ling together, as sociably as you please. Upon one of these occasions, the crew of the Levia- than made so prodigious a tumult, that the natives, in- dignant at the insult offered their laws, plucked up a heart, and made a dash at the rioters, one hundred strong. The sailors fought like tigers ; but were at last overcome, and carried before a native tribunal ; which, after a mighty clamour, dismissed everybody but Cap- tain Crash, who was asserted to be the author of the disorders. Upon this charge, then, he had been placed in con- finement against the coming on of the assizes ; the judge being expected to lounge along in the course of the afternoon. While waiting his Honour's arrival, numer- ous additional offences were preferred against the culprit (mostly by the old women) ; among others was the bit TALOO CHAPEL. 345 of a slip in which he stood implicated along with the young lady. Thus, in Polynesia as elsewhere ; — charge a man with one misdemeanour, and all his peccadilloes are raked up and assorted before him. Going to the school-house for the purpose of witness- ing the trial, the din of it assailed our ears a long way off; and upon entering the building we were almost stunned. About five hundred natives were present ; each, apparently, having something to say, and determined to say it. His Honour — a handsome, benevolent-looking old man — sat cross-legged on a little platform; seem- ingly resigned with all Christian submission to the up- roar. He was an hereditary chief in this quarter of the island, and judge for life in the district of Partoowye. There were several cases coming on ; but the captain and girl were first tried together. They were mixing freely with the crowd; and as it afterward turned out that every one, no matter who, had a right to address the court, for aught we knew they might have been ar- guing their own case. At what precise moment the trial began, it would be hard to say. There was no swearing of witnesses, and no regular jury. 1 Now and then somebody leaped up and shouted out something which might have been evidence ; the rest, meanwhile, keeping up an incessant jabbering. Presently, the old judge himself began to get excited; and springing to his feet, ran in among the crowd, wagging his tongue as hard as anybody. The tumult lasted about twenty minutes ; and toward the end of it, Captain Crash might have been seen, tranquilly regarding, from his Honour's platform, the 1 This anomaly exists, notwithstanding that, in other respects, the missionaries have endeavoured to organise the native courts upon the English model. 346 omoo. judicial uproar, in which his fate was about being decided. The result of all this was, that both he and the girl were found guilty. The latter was adjudged to make six mats for the queen ; and the former, in consideration of his manifold offences, being deemed incorrigible, was sentenced to eternal banishment from the island. Both these decrees seemed to originate in the general hubbub. His Honour, however, appeared to have considerable authority, and it was quite plain that the decision received his approval. The above penalties were by no means indiscriminately inflicted. The missionaries have prepared a sort of penal tariff to facilitate judicial proceedings. It costs so many days' labour on the Broom Road to indulge in the pleasures of the calabash; so many fathoms of stone wall to steal a musket ; and so on to the end of the cata- logue. The judge being provided with a book, in which all these matters are cunningly arranged, the thing is vastly convenient. For instance : a crime is proved, — say, bigamy ; turn to letter B — and there you have it. Bigamy: — forty days on the Broom Road, and twenty mats for the queen. Read the passage aloud, and sentence is pronounced. After taking part in the first trial, the other delin- quents present were put upon their own ; in which, also, the convicted culprits seemed to have quite as much to say as the rest. A rather strange proceeding; but strictly in accordance with the glorious English princi- ple, that every man should be tried by his peers. They were all found guilty. QUEEN POMAREE. 347 CHAPTER LXXX. QUEEN POMAREE. It is well to learn something about people before being introduced to them ; and so, we will here give some account of Pomaree and her family. Every reader of Cook's Voyages must remember " Otoo," who, in that navigator's time, was king of the larger peninsula of Tahiti. Subsequently, assisted by the muskets of the Bount} r 's men, he extended his rule over the entire island. This Otoo, before his death, had his name changed into Pomaree, which has ever since been the royal patronymic. He was succeeded by his son, Pomaree II., the most famous prince in the annals of Tahiti. Though a sad debauchee and drunkard, and even charged with unnat- ural crimes, he was a great friend of the missionaries, and one of their very first proselytes. During the reli- gious wars into which he was hurried by his zeal for the new faith, he was defeated, and expelled from the island. After a short exile, he returned from Imeeo, with an army of eight hundred warriors : and, in the battle of Narii, routed the rebellious pagans with great slaughter, and re-established himself upon the throne. Thus, by force of arms was Christianity finally triumph- ant in Tahiti. Pomaree II., dying in 1821, was succeeded by his infant son, under the title of Pomaree III. This young prince survived his father but six years ; and the gov- ernment then descended to his elder sister, Aimata, the present queen, who is commonly called Pomaree 348 omoo. Vahinee I., or the first female Pomaree. Her Majesty must be now upwards of thirty years of age. She has been twice married. Her first husband was a son of the old King of Tahar, an island about one hundred miles from Tahiti. This proving an unhappy alliance, the pair were soon after divorced. The present husband of the queen is a chief of Imeeo. The reputation of Pomaree is not what it ought to be. She, and also her mother, were, for a long time, excommunicated members of the Church ; and the former, I believe, still is. Among other things, her conjugal fidelity is far from being unquestioned. In- deed, it was upon this ground chiefly that she was excluded from the communion of the Church. Previous to her misfortunes, she spent the greater portion of her time sailing about from one island to an- other, attended by a licentious court ; and wherever she went, all manner of games and festivities celebrated her arrival. She was always given to display. For several years the maintenance of a regiment of household troops drew largely upon the royal exchequer. They were trouser- less fellows, in a uniform of calico shirts and pasteboard hats ; armed with muskets of all shapes and calibres, and commanded by a great noisy chief, strutting it in a coat of fiery red. These heroes escorted their mistress when- ever she went abroad. Some time ago, the queen received from her English sister, Victoria, a very showy, though uneasy, headdress — a crown ; probably made to order, at some tinman's in London. Having no idea of reserving so pretty a bauble for coronation days, which come so seldom, her majesty sported it whenever she appeared in public; and, to show her familiarity with European customs, QUEEN POMAREE. 349 politely touched it to all foreigners of distinction — whaling captains and the like — whom she happened to meet in her evening walk on the Broom Road. The arrival and departure of royalty were always announced at the palace by the court artilleryman — a fat old gentleman, who, in a prodigious hurry and per- spiration, discharged minute fowling-pieces, as fast as he could load and fire the same. The Tahitian princess leads her husband a hard life. Poor fellow ! he not only caught a queen, but a Tartar, when he married her. The style by which he is ad- dressed is rather significant — " Pomaree-Tanee " (Po- maree's man). All things considered, as appropriate a title for a king-consort as could be hit upon. If ever there was a henpecked husband, that man is the prince. One day, his cara-sposa, giving audience to a deputation from the captains of the vessels lying in Papeetee, he ventured to make a suggestion which was very displeasing to her. She turned round, and, boxing his ears, told him to go over to his beggarly island of Imeeo, if he wanted to give himself airs. Cuffed and contemned, poor Tanee flies to the bottle, or rather to the calabash, for solace. Like his wife and mistress, he drinks more than he ought. Six or seven years ago, when an American man-of-war was lying at Papeetee, the town was thrown into the greatest commotion by a conjugal assault and battery, made upon the sacred person of Pomaree by her intoxi- cated Tanee. Captain Bob once told me the story. And by way of throwing more spirit into the description, as well as to make up for his oral deficiencies, the old man went through the accompanying action: myself being proxy for the Queen of Tahiti. 350 omoo. It seems, that on a Sunday morning, being dismissed contemptuously from the royal presence, Tanee was accosted by certain good fellows, friends and boon com- panions, who condoled with him on his misfortunes — railed against the queen, and finally dragged him away to an illicit vender of spirits, in whose house the party got gloriously mellow. In this state, Pomaree Vahinee I. was the topic upon which all dilated — " A vixen of a queen," probably suggested one. " It's infamous," said another; "and I'd have satisfaction," cried a third. " And so I will ! " — Tanee must have hiccoughed ; for off he went ; and ascertaining that his royal half was out riding, he mounted his horse, and galloped after her. Near the outskirts of the town, a cavalcade of women came cantering towards him, in the centre of which was the object of his fury. Smiting his beast right and left, he dashed in among them ; completely overturning one of the party, leaving her on the field, and dispersing everybody else except Pomaree. Backing her horse dexterously, the incensed queen heaped upon him every scandalous epithet she could think of ; until at last, the enraged Tanee leaped out of his saddle, caught Pomaree by her dress, and dragging her to the earth, struck her repeatedly in the face, holding on meanwhile by the hair of her head. He was proceeding to strangle her on the spot, when the cries of the frightened attendants brought a crowd of natives to the rescue, who bore the nearly insensible queen away. But his frantic rage was not yet sated. He ran to the palace ; and before it could be prevented, demolished a valuable supply of crockery, a recent present from abroad. In the act of perpetrating some other atrocity, he was seized from behind, and carried off with rolling eyes and foaming at the mouth. QUEEN POMAREE. 351 This is a fair example of a Tahitian in a passion. Though the mildest of mortals in general, and hard to be roused, when once fairly up, he is possessed with a thousand devils. The day following, Tanee was privately paddled over to Imeeo, in a canoe ; where, after remaining in banish- ment for a couple of weeks, he was allowed to return, and once more give in his domestic adhesion. Though Pomaree Vahinee I. be something of a Jezebel in private life, in her public rule she is said to have been quite lenient and forbearing. This was her true policy; for an hereditary hostility to her family had always lurked in the hearts of many powerful chiefs, the descendants of the old Kings of Taiarboo, dethroned by her grandfather Otoo. Chief among these, and in fact the leader of his party, was Poofai ; a bold, able man, who made no secret of his enmity to the missionaries, and the government which they controlled. But while events were occurring, calculated to favour the hopes of the disaffected and turbulent, the arrival of the French gave a most unexpected turn to affairs. During my sojourn in Tahiti, a report was rife — which I knew to originate with what is generally called the " missionary party " — that Poofai and some other chiefs of note, had actually agreed, for a stipulated bribe, to acquiesce in the appropriation of their country. But subsequent events have rebutted the calumny. Several of these very men have recently died in battle against the French. Under the sovereignty of the Pomarees,the great chiefs of Tahiti were something like the barons of King John. Holding feudal sway over their patrimonial valleys, and, on account of their descent, warmly beloved by the people, they frequently cut off the royal revenues by 352 omoo. refusing to pay the customary tribute due from them as vassals. The truth is, that with the ascendency of the mission- aries, the regal office in Tahiti lost much of its dignity and influence. In the days of paganism, it was sup- ported by all the power of a numerous priesthood, and was solemnly connected with the entire superstitious idolatry of the land. The monarch claimed to be a sort of by-blow of Tararroa, the Saturn of the Polynesian mythology, and cousin-german to inferior deities. His person was thrice holy ; if he entered an ordinary dwell- ing, never mind for how short a time, it was demolished when he left ; no common mortal being thought worthy to inhabit it afterwards. "I'm a greater man than King George," said the in- corrigible young Otoo, to the first missionaries ; " he rides on a horse, and I on a man ! " Such was the case. He travelled post through his dominions on the shoulders of his subjects ; and relays of immortal beings were provided in all the valleys. But alas ! how times have changed ! how transient human greatness ! Some years since, Pomaree Vahinee I., the granddaughter of the proud Otoo, went into the laundry business ; publicly soliciting, by her agents, the washing of the linen belonging to the officers of ships touching in her harbours. It is a significant fact, and one worthy of record, that while the influence of the English missionaries at Tahiti has tended to so great a diminution of the regal dignity there, that of the American missionaries at the Sand- wich Islands has been purposely exerted to bring about a contrary result. WE VISIT THE COURT. 353 CHAPTER LXXXI. WE VISIT THE COURT. It was about the middle of the second month of the Hegira, and therefore some five weeks after our arrival in Partoowye, that we at last obtained admittance to the residence of the queen. It happened thus. There was a Marquesan in the train of Pomaree, who officiated as nurse to her chil- dren. According to the Tahitian custom, the royal youngsters are carried about until it requires no small degree of strength to stand up under them. But Mar- bonna was just the man for this — large and muscular, well made as a statue, and with an arm like a degener- ate Tahitian's thigh. Embarking at his native island, as a sailor, on board of a French whaler, he afterwards ran away from the ship at Tahiti ; where, being seen and admired by Po- maree, he had been prevailed upon to enlist in her service. Often, when visiting the grounds, we saw him walk- ing about in the shade, carrying two handsome boys, who encircled his neck with their arms. Marbonna's face, tattooed as it was in the ornate style of his tribe, was as good as a picture-book to these young Pomarees. They delighted to trace with their fingers the outlines of the strange shapes there delineated. The first time my eyes lighted upon the Marquesan, I knew his country in a moment ; and hailing him in his own language, he turned round, surprised that a person so speaking should be a stranger. He proved to 354 omoo. be a native of Tior, a glen of Nukuheva. I had visited the place more than once ; and so, on the island of Imeeo, we met like old friends. In my frequent conversations with him over the bam- boo picket, I found this islander a philosopher of nature — a wild heathen, moralising upon the vices and follies of the Christian court of Tahiti — a /savage^ 'scorning the degeneracy of the people among whom^rTimie^had throwli him. I was amazed at the national feelings of the man. No European, when abroad, could speak of his country with more pride than Marbonna. He assured me, again and again, that so soon as he had obtained sufficient money to purchase twenty muskets and as many bags of powder, he was going to return to a place, with which Imeeo was not worthy to be compared. It was Marbonna, who after one or two unsuccessful attempts, at last brought about our admission into the queen's grounds. Through a considerable crowd, he conducted us along the pier to where an old man was sit- ting ; to whom he introduced us as a couple of " kar- howrees " of his acquaintance, anxious to see the sights of the palace. The venerable chamberlain stared at us, and shook his head : the doctor, thinking he wanted a fee, placed a plug of tobacco in his hand. This was in- gratiating, and we were permitted to pass on. Upon the point of entering one of the houses, Marbonna's name was shouted in half-a-dozen different directions, and he was obliged to withdraw. Thus left at the very threshold to shift for ourselves, my companion's assurance stood us in good stead. He stalked right in, and I followed. The place was full of women, who, instead of exhibiting the surprise we ex- pected, accosted us as cordially as if we had called to WE VISIT THE COURT. 355 take our souchong with them, by express invitation. In the first place nothing would do but we must each devour a calabash of " poee " and several roasted ba- nanas. Pipes were then lighted, and a brisk conversa- tion ensued. These ladies of the court, if not very polished, were surprisingly free and easy in their manners ; quite as much so as King Charles's beauties. There was one of them — an arch little miss, who could converse with us pretty fluently — to whom we strove to make ourselves particularly agreeable, with the view of engaging her services as cicerone. As such, she turned out be every thing we could de- sire. No one disputing her will, every place was entered without ceremony, curtains brushed aside, mats lifted, and each nook and corner explored. Whether the little damsel carried her mistress's signet, that every thing opened to her thus, I know not ; but Marbonna himself, the bearer of infants, could not have been half so serviceable. Among other houses which we visited, was one of large size and fine exterior ; the special residence of a European — formerly the mate of a merchant vessel, — who had done himself the honour of marrying into the Pomaree family. The lady he wedded being a near kinswoman of the queen, he became a permanent member of her majesty's household. This adventurer rose late, dressed theatrically in calico and trinkets, assumed a dictatorial tone in conversation, and was evidently upon excellent terms with himself. We found him reclining on a mat, smoking a reed- pipe of tobacco, in the midst of an admiring circle of chiefs and ladies. He must have noticed our approach ; but instead of rising and offering civilities, he went on 356 omoo. talking and smoking, without even condescending to look at us. " His Highness feels his poee" carelessly observed the doctor. The rest of the company gave us the ordi- nary salutation, our guide announcing us beforehand. In answer to our earnest requests to see the queen, we were now conducted to an edifice, by far the most spacious, in the enclosure. It was at least one hundred and fifty feet in length, very wide, with low eaves, and an exceedingly steep roof of pandannas leaves. There were neither doors nor windows — nothing along the sides but the slight posts supporting the rafters. Be- tween these posts, curtains of fine matting and tappa were rustling all round ; some of them were festooned, or partly withdrawn, so as to admit light and air, and afford a glimpse now and then of what was going on within. Pushing aside one of the screens, we entered. The apartment was one immense hall ; the long and lofty ridge-pole fluttering with fringed matting and tassels, full forty feet from the ground. Lounges of mats, piled one upon another, extended on either side ; while here and there were slight screens, forming as many recesses, where groups of natives — all females — were reclining at their evening meal. As we advanced, these various parties ceased their buzzing, and in explanation of our appearance among them, listened to a few cabalistic words from our guide. The whole scene was a strange one; but what most excited our surprise, was the incongruous assem- blage of the most costly objects from all quarters of the globe. Cheek by jowl, they lay beside the rudest native articles, without the slightest attempt at order. WE VISIT THE COURT. 357 Superb writing-desks of rosewood, inlaid with silver and mother-of-pearl ; decanters and goblets of cut glass ; embossed volumes of plates ; gilded candelabras ; sets of globes and mathematical instruments; the finest porcelain ; richly mounted sabres and fowling-pieces : laced hats and sumptuous garments of all sorts, with numerous other matters of European manufacture, were strewn about among greasy calabashes half filled with poee, rolls of old tappa and matting, paddles and fish-spears, and the ordinary furniture of a Tahitian dwelling. All the articles first mentioned were, doubtless, pres- ents from foreign powers. They were more or less in- jured : the fowling-pieces and swords were rusted ; the finest woods were scratched; and a folio volume of Hogarth lay open, with a cocoa-nut shell of some musty preparation capsized among the miscellaneous furniture of the Rake's apartment, where that inconsiderate young gentleman is being measured for a coat. While we were amusing ourselves in this museum of curiosities, our conductor plucked us by the sleeve, and whispered, " Pomaree ! Pomaree ! aramai kow kow." "She is coming to sup, then," said the doctor, staring in the direction indicated. " What say you, Paul, sup- pose we step up ? " Just then a curtain near by, lifted ; and from a private building a few yards distant, the queen entered, unattended. She wore a loose gown of blue silk, with two rich shawls, one red and the other yellow, tied about her neck. Her royal majesty was barefooted. She was about the ordinary size, rather* matronly ; her features not very handsome; her mouth, voluptuous; but there was a careworn expression in her face, prob- ably attributable to her late misfortunes. From her 358 omoo. appearance, one would judge her about forty ; but she is not so old. As the queen approached one of the recesses, her attendants hurried up, escorted her in, and smoothed the mats on which she at last reclined. Two girls soon appeared, carrying their mistress's repast; and then, surrounded by cut glass and porcelain, and jars of sweet- meats and confections, Pomaree Vahinee I., the titular Queen of Tahiti, ate fish and poee out of her native calabashes, disdaining either knife or spoon. " Come on," whispered Long Ghost, " let's have an audience at once ; " and he was on the point of intro- ducing himself, when our guide, quite alarmed, held him back, and implored silence. The other natives also interfered ; and as he was pressing forward, raised such an outcry that Pomaree lifted her eyes, and saw us for the first time. She seemed surprised, and offended ; and issuing an order in a commanding tone to several of her women, waved us out of the house. Summary as the dismissal was, court etiquette, no doubt, required our compliance. We withdrew; making a profound inclination as we disappeared behind the tappa arras. We departed the grounds without seeing Marbonna ; and previous to vaulting over the picket, feed our pretty guide, after a fashion of our own. Looking round a few moments after, we saw the damsel escorted back by two men, who seemed to have been sent after her. I trust she received nothing more than a reprimand. The next day Po-Po informed us that strict orders had been issued to admit no strangers within the palace precincts. WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 359 CHAPTER LXXXII. WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. Disappointed in going to court, we determined upon going to sea. It would never do, longer to trespass on Po-Po's hospitality ; and then, weary somewhat of life in Imeeo, like all sailors ashore, I at last pined for the billows. Now, if her crew were to be credited, the Leviathan was not the craft to our mind. But I had seen the cap- tain, and liked him. He was an uncommonly tall, robust, fine-looking man, in the prime of life. There was a deep crimson spot in the middle of each sun- burnt cheek, doubtless the effect of his sea-potations. He was a Vineyarder, or native of the island of Martha's Vineyard (adjoining Nantucket), and, I would have sworn it, a sailor, and no tyrant. Previous to this, we had rather avoided the Levia- than's men, when they came ashore ; but now, we pur- posely threw ourselves in their way, in order to learn more of the vessel. We became acquainted with the third mate, a Prus- sian, and an old merchant seaman — a right jolly fellow, with a face like a ruby. We took him to Po-Po's, and gave him a dinner of baked pig and bread-fruit ; with pipes and tobacco for dessert. The account he gave us of the ship agreed with my own surmises. A cosier old craft never floated ; and the captain was the finest man in the world. There was plenty to eat, too ; and, at sea, nothing to do but sit on the windlass and sail. The only bad trait about the vessel was this : she had 360 omoo. been launched under some baleful star ; and so, was a luckless ship in the fishery. She dropped her boats into the brine often enough, and they frequently got fast to the whales ; but lance and harpoon almost inva- riably "drew" when darted by the men of the Levia- than. But what of that? We should have all the sport of chasing the monsters, with none of the detest- able work which follows their capture. So, hurrah for the coast of Japan ! Thither the ship was bound. A word now, about the hard stories we heard, the first time we visited the ship. They were nothing but idle fictions, got up by the sailors for the purpose of frightening us away, so as to oblige the captain, who was in want of more hands, to lie the longer in a pleas- ant harbour. The next time the Vineyarder came ashore, we flung ourselves in his path. When informed of our desire to sail with him, he wanted to know our history ; and, above all, what countrymen we were. We said, that we had left a whaler in Tahiti, some time previous ; and, since then, had been, in the most praiseworthy manner, employed upon a plantation. As for our coun- try, sailors belong to no nation in particular ; we were, on this occasion, both Yankees. Upon this he looked decidedly incredulous ; and freely told us, that he verily believed we were both from Sydney. Be it known here, that American sea-captains, in the Pacific, are mortally afraid of these Sydney gentry; who, to tell the truth, wherever known, are in exces- sively bad odour. Is there a mutiny on board a ship in the South Seas, ten to one a Sydney man is the ring- leader. Ashore, these fellows are equally riotous. It was on this account, that we were anxious to con- ceal the fact of our having belonged to the Julia; WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 361 though it annoyed me much, thus to deny the dashing little craft. For the same reason, also, the doctor fibbed about his birth-place. Unfortunately, one part of our raiment — Arfretee's blue frocks — was deemed a sort of collateral evidence against us. For, curiously enough, an American sailor is generally distinguished by his red frock ; and an English tar, by his blue one : thus reversing the national colours. The circumstance was pointed out by the captain ; and we quickly explained the anomaly. But in vain : he seemed inveterately prejudiced against us ; and, in particular, eyed the doctor most distrustfully. By way of propping the latter's pretensions, I was throwing out a hint concerning Kentucky, as a land of tall men, when our Vineyarder turned away abruptly, and desired to hear nothing more. It was evident that he took Long Ghost for an exceedingly problematical character. Perceiving this, I resolved to see what a private interview would do. So, one afternoon, I found the captain smoking a pipe in the dwelling of a portly old native, one Mai-Mai, who, for a reasonable compensa- tion, did the honours of Partoowye, to illustrious strangers. His guest had just risen from a sumptuous meal of baked pig and taro pudding ; and the remnants of the repast were still visible. Two reeking bottles, also, with their necks wrenched off, lay upon the mat. All this was encouraging ; for, after a good dinner, one feels affluent and amiable, and peculiarly open to conviction So, at all events, I found the noble Vineyarder. I began by saying, that I called for the purpose of setting him right, touching certain opinions of his con- cerning the place of my nativity : I was an American, 362 omoo. thaak Heaven ! and wanted to convince him of the fact. After looking me in the eye for some time, and, by so doing, revealing an obvious unsteadiness in his own visual organs, he begged me to reach forth my arm. I did so ; wondering what upon earth that useful member had to do with the matter in hand. He placed his fingers upon my wrist , and holding them there for a moment, sprang to his feet ; and, with much enthusiasm, pronounced me a Yankee, every beat of my pulse ! " Here, Mai-Mai ! " he cried, " another bottle ! " And, when it came, with one stroke of a knife, he summarily beheaded it, and commanded me to drain it to the bottom. He then told me, that if I would come on board his vessel the following morning, I would find the the ship's articles on the cabin transom. This was getting along famously. But what was to become of the doctor? I forthwith made an adroit allusion to my long friend. But it was worse than useless. The Vineyarder swore he would have nothing to do with him — he (my long friend) was a " bird " from Sydney, and nothing would make him (the man of little faith) believe otherwise. I could not help loving the free-hearted captain ; but indignant at this most unaccountable prejudice against my comrade, I abruptly took leave. Upon informing the doctor of the result of the inter- view, he was greatly amused ; and laughingly declared, th\t the Vineyarder must be a penetrating fellow. He the* insisted upon my going to sea in the ship, since he well knew how anxious I was to leave. As for himself, on setond thoughts, he was no sailor; and although "landsmen" very often compose part of a whaler's WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 363 crew, he did not quite relish the idea of occupying a position so humble. In short, he had made up his mind to tarry awhile in Imeeo. I turned the matter over ; and at last decided upon quitting the island. The impulse urging me to sea once more, and the prospect of eventually reaching home, were too much to be resisted; especially, as the Levia- than was so comfortable a craft, was now bound on her last whaling cruise, and, in little more than a year's time, would be going round Cape Horn. I did not, however, covenant to remain in the vessel for the residue of the voyage ; which would have been needlessly binding myself. I merely stipulated for the coming cruise, leaving my subsequent movements un- restrained ; for there was no knowing that I might not change my mind, and prefer journeying home by short and easy stages. The next day I paddled off to the ship, signed and sealed, and stepped ashore with my " advance " — fifteen Spanish dollars, tasselling the ends of my neck- handkerchief. I forced half of the silver on Long Ghost ; and having little use for the remainder, would have given it to Po-Po as some small return for his kindness ; but, although he well knew the value of the coin, not a dollar would he accept. In three days' time, the Prussian came to Po-Po's, and told us that the captain, having made good the number of his crew, by shipping several islanders, had deter- mined upon sailing with the land-breeze at dawn the following morning. These tidings were received in the afternoon. The doctor immediately disappeared, re- turning soon after with a couple of flasks of wine, con- cealed in the folds of his frock. Through the agency 364 omoo. of the Marquesan, he had purchased them from an understrapper of the court. I prevailed upon Po-Po to drink a parting shell ; and even little Loo, actually looking conscious that one of her hopeless admirers was about leaving Partoowye for ever, sipped a few drops from a folded leaf. As for the warm-hearted Arfretee, her grief was unbounded. She even besought me to spend my last night under her own palm-thatch ; and then, in the morning, she would herself paddle me off to the ship. But this I would not consent to ; and so, as some- thing to remember her by, she presented me with a roll of fine matting, and another of tappa. These gifts placed in my hammock, I afterwards found very agree- able in the warm latitudes to which we were bound ; nor did they fail to awaken most grateful remembrances. About nightfall we broke away from this generous- hearted household, and hurried down to the water. It was a mad, merry night among the sailors : they had on tap a small cask of wine, procured in the same way as the doctor's flasks. An hour or two after midnight, everything was noise- less i but when the first streak of the dawn showed itself over the mountains, a sharp voice hailed the fore- castle, and ordered the ship unmoored. The anchors came up cheerily ; the sails were soon set ; and with the early breath of the tropical morning, fresh and fragrant from the hillsides, we slowly glided down the bay, and were swept through the opening in the reef. Presently, " we hove to," and the canoes came alongside to take off the islanders who had accompanied us thus far. As he stepped over the side, I shook the doetor long and heartily by the hand. I have never seen or heard of him since. WHICH ENDS THE BOOK. 365 Crowding all sail, we braced the yards square ; and, the breeze freshening, bowled straight away from the land. Once more the sailor's cradle rocked under me, and I found myself rolling in my gait. By noon, the island had gone down in the horizon ; and all before us was the wide Pacific. 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