Fr. 1-50 IMPORTANT TO TRAVELLERS. THE following list, which consists of the BEST HOTKL IN EACH PLACE, has been most carefully compiled for the information of travellers carrying Paterson's Guides to Switzerland and the Rhine provinces. In other guide books, it is well known that hotel recom- mendations are given which are to a certain extent influenced by advertisements ; or in other cases where this is not so, so many hotels are mentioned, that it is difficult for the tourist to make an intelligent choice. This list, on the contrary, has been compiled with the greatest care from the long personal experience of the editor, ENTIRELY IN THE INTEREST OF TRAVELLERS, and has also been submitted for revision to many authorities eminently capable of judging of its correctness. We have, therefore, no hesitation in claiming for this list the absolute confidence of tourists, and we feel assured that it will add greatly to the usefulness of the guides. In the few towns where we give the names of more than one hotel, it is because they are of such equal merit that it has been impossible to distinguish between them. SWITZERLAND AND ITALIAN LAKES. Airolo Andermatt Basle Baveno Belgirate Bellaggio Berne Brunnen Cernobbio HOTEL POSTA. HOTEL BELLEVUE. HOTEL TROIS ROIS. GRAND HOTEL BELLE- VUE. GRAND HOTEL BEL- GIRATE. GRAND HOTEL BEL- LAGGIO. BERNERHOF. W ALDST ATTERHOF. GRAND HOTEL VILLA D'ESTE. UCSB LIBRARY IMPORTANT TO Chamonix . Chiavenna . Coire .... Constance . Davos-Dorfli Davos-am-Platz . Engelberg Falls of the Rhine (Neu- hausen) . Freiburg Geneva (Quai Mont Blanc, North Bank) (South Bank) . Gersau Giessbach . Glarus Grindelwald Interlaken . Lausanne . Lauterbrunnen . Locarno Lucerne Lugano Macugnaga Marbigny . Meyringen . Montreux (Teritet) . Murren Neuchatel . Neuhausen . Ouchy .... Pallanza Pontresina . Ragatz St Moritz Town St Moritz Baths Stresa .... Thun . HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. HOTEL CONRADI. HOTEL STEINBOK. INSELHOF. KURHAUS DAVOS DORFLI. KURHAUS DAVOS. HOTEL ZUM TITLIS. SCHWEIZERHOF. GRAND HOTEL DE FREI- BURG. (HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. { HOTEL DE LA PAIX. HOTEL METROPOLE. HOTEL MULLER. HOTEL GIESSBACH. GLARNERHOF. HOTEL DE L'OURS. HOTEL VICTORIA. HOTEL GIBBON. HOTEL STAUBBACH. GRAND HOTEL. SCHWEIZERHOF. HOTEL DU PARC. HOTEL MONTE ROSA. HOTEL CLERC. HOTEL SAUVAGE. HOTEL DBS ALPES. GRAND HOTEL DE MURREN. HOTEL BELLEVUE. SCHWEIZERHOF. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. GRAND HOTEL PAL- LANZA. KRONENHOF. QUELLENHOF. ENGADINER KULM. HOTEL VICTORIA. HOTEL DES ISLES BOR- OMEES. GRAND HOTEL DE THOUNE. IMPORTANT TO TRAVELLERS. Treib (Seelisberg, Lake of Lucerne) . Varese Wiesen Vevey .... Zermatt Zurich . HOTEL SONNENBERG. GRAND HOTEL VARESE. HOTEL BELLEVUE. GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY HOTELS CERVIN AND MONTE ROSA. HOTEL BAUR-AU-LAC. RHINE PROVINCES. Aix-la-Chapelle . Baden-Baden Bonn .... Carlsruhe . Coblenz Cologne Dusseldorf . Ems .... Frankfort . Freiburg-in-Bresgau . Heidelberg . Homburg Mayence Rudesheim . Strassburg . Triburg (Black Forest) Wiesbaden . Wildbad (HOTEL GRAND MONAR- QUE. (HOTEL NQELLENS. f HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. I HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. { HOTEL DE RUSSIE. HOTEL STEPHANIEN- L BAD. HOTEL ROYAL. HOTEL GERMAN I A. HOTEL DU GEANT. HOTEL DU NORD. BREIDENBACHERHOF. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. HOTEL SCHWAN. ZJEHRINGERHOF. HOTEL PRINZ CARL. HOTEL VICTORIA. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE HOTEL RHEINSTEIN. HOTEL DE VILLE DE PARIS. BIERINGER'S BLACK FOREST HOTEL. (HOTEL DE LA ROSE. ^ HOTEL FOUR SEASONS. (NASSAUERHOF. HOTEL KLUMPP. PATERSON'S GUIDE TO SWITZERLAND. PATERSON'S GUIDE TO SWITZERLAND WITH MAPS AND PLANS THIRD EDITION. 1887 WILLIAM *PATERSON 14 CLYDE STR E E T, EDINBURGH AND 8 LOVELL'S COURT, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON EDWARD STANFORD, 55 CHARING CROSS, LONDON KRONER BROTHERS, STUTTGART PREFACE. THE publishers of this Guide have made it their en- deavour to afford travellers in Switzerland a cheap, concise, and reliable hand-book. The descriptions of the various routes have been com- pressed into the smallest possible space consistent with giving full and accurate details of all the points of interest that ordinary travellers will wish to see. To attain this end it has been necessary to pass over with a mere mention those villages and even towns which though commercially important, have no interest for the tourist. Much larger space, also, has been devoted to descriptions of the main routes than of out-of-the-way tracks, which are but little frequented except by mo\m- taineers and hardy pedestrians. At the same time, not- withstanding the handy size and low price of the Guide, the tourist will find in it all the necessary informa- tion the larger and more expensive Swiss hand-books afford. The descriptions given have been verified on the spot, but the publishers will be grateful for any hints or corrections sent them by travellers. The Guide is carefully revised annually. No advertisements are taken for the Guide, and the recommendations of Hotels, &c., in the text are solely guided by the reputation such establishments have for fair dealing and attention to travellers ; and any well authenticated complaint of overcharge or incivility will cause them to be struck out of the Guide. CONTENTS. Route I'ajte 1. Bale to Berne by Herzogenbuchsee .... 1 2. Bale to Bienne and Berne by the Miinsterthal . . 7 3. Bale to Soleure and Berne 4. Berne to Lausanne and Geneva by Freiburg . . . 10 5. Soleure to Lausanne by Lyss and Payerne . . . 11 6. Bale to Neuchatel by Bienne 12 7- Neuchatel to Lausanne and Geneva by Yverdon . . 14 8. Pontarlier to Neuchatel through the Val de Travers . 15 9. Pontarlier to Lausanne and Geneva .... 16 10. Bale to Schaffhausen and Constance .... 16 11. Constance to Friedrichshaven, Rorschach, and Bregenz . 20 12. Rorschach to Coire '21 13. RrOrschach to Heiden, Appenzell, and Weissbad . . 22 14. Bale to Ziirich via Brugg 23 15. Schaffhausen to Winterthur an'd Zurich .... 27 16. Constance to Winterthur and Zurich .... 28 17. Olten to Waldshut by Aarau and Brugg .... 28 18. Zurich to Romanshorn, Friedrichshaven, and Lindau . 29 19. Zurich to St Gallon, Rorschach, and Lindau ... 29 20. Zurich to Coire 30 21. Zurich to Glarus and Linththal (Baths of Stachelberg) . 35 22. Stachelberg to Altorf over the Klausen Pass ... 37 23. Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln and Schwyz .... 37 24. Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 39 25. Glarus to Coire by the Sernf-thal and Segnes Pass . . 40 26. Bale to Lucerne 41 27. Lucerne, Pilatus, Lake of Lucerne, and the Rigi . . 42 28. Zurich to Zug and Lucerne 50 29. Lucerne to Berne by the Emmenthal .... 51 30. Berne to Thun and Interlaken 52 31. Lucerne to Brienz and Meyringen by the Briinig Pass, and to Interlaken by the Lake of Brienz ... 57 32. Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen .....<. 59 33. Lauterbrunnen to Mlirren and the Schmadribach . . 60 34. Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald 62 35. Grindelwald to Meyringen by the Great Scheideck . . 64 36. Meyringen to the Grimsel Hospice and Rhone Glacier . 65 37. Lucerne to Engelberg and Altorf by the Surenen . . 66 38. Meyringen to Engelberg over the Joch Pass . . . 68 39. Meyringen to Wasen over the Susten Pass ... 69 40. Lucerne to Chiasso by the St Gotthard Railway . . 70 viii VOJffTEXT*. Koute Page 41. Goschenen to Airolo over the St Gotthard Pass by Road 7?> 42. Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier and Brieg- over the Furca Pass 77 43. Thun to Leuk by the Gemmi Pass 79 44. Thun to Sion by the Simmenthal and Rawyl . 45. Thun to Saanen and Aigle over the Col de Pillon . . 83 46. Romont to Bulle, Chateau D'Oex, and Aigle . . 84 47. Boltigen to Bulle 85 48. Bex to Sion over the Col de Cheville .... 86 49. Geneva '. . 50. Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne. Lake of Geneva . 91 51. Geneva to St Maurice by the Lake of Geneva, South Bank 97 52. Geneva to Chamonix . 98 53. Chamonix to Martigny over the Tcte Noire . . . 103 54. Chamonix to Vernayaz by the Salvan 104 55. Martigny to Chamonix over the Col de Balme . . 105 56. Chamonix to Sixt over the Col du Brevent and to Geneva by Samoens 105 57. The Tour of Mont Blanc 106 58. Martigny to Aosta over the Great St Bernard . . 109 59. From Martigny to Aosta by the Val de Bagne and Col de Fenetre 113 60. Visp to Zermatt 61. Zermatt to Aosta over the Theodule Pass 62. Zermatt round Monte Rosa to Macugnaga . . . 117 63. Pallenzena or Vogogna to 'Visp by Macugnaga, Monte Moro, and the Saas-Thal 118 64. Ulrichen to Domo D'Ossola 119 65. Martigny to Lake Maggiore over the Simplon . . 120 66. Coire to Colico over the Spliigen and the Via Mala . 124 67. Spliigen to Bellinzona over the Bernardino . . .129 68. Coire to Goschenen by the Vorder Rheinthal and the Oberalp 129 69. Landquart to Davos by the Prattigau, and Davos to Nauders over the Fluela Pass 131 70. Coire to Davos by Lenz 71. Coire to Davos by the Strela Pass 72. Coire to Samaden by the Albula Pass .... 73. Coire to Samaden by the Julier Pass .... 136 74. Chiavenna to Samaden, Schuls, and Nauders . . . 138 75. Samaden to Tirano over the Bernina . . . .141 76. Tirano to Bormio and Nauders over the Stelvio . . 143 77. Tirano to Colico through the Valtellina . . .145 78. Lake Maggiore 145 79. The Lake of Como 148 80. Luino to Lugano, Porlezzo, and Menaggio . . . 151 81. Varese 152 82. The Lake of Orta . . 153. MAPS AND PLANS. I'llRC Basle '2 Berne .......... 4 Constance ......... 18 Zurich 24 Lucerne . . . . . . . . . . 42 Lake of Lucerne 44 Lakes of Thun and Brienz ...... 52 Geneva 86 Lausanne 92 INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. GENERAL PLAN OF THE GUIDE. In a country like Switzerland, which is simply a network of rail- roads, diligence routes, and bridle-paths, it is impossible to de- scribe the various routes in anything like consecutive order. What we have aimed at therefore is, as far as possible, to group together the routes in each district, and have them start from important centres. The routes are all plainly indicated on the map of Switzerland at the end of the book, railway routes being shown by thick blue lines, diligence and carriage routes by thin blue lines, and bridle-paths by dotted llti.f lines. The page on which the route is described is also given. The various objects of interest worth seeing in the towns have been described in the order in which they can most conveniently be visited, and to enable the tourist to easily find his way without the assistance of a valet-de-place, a walk through each toicii is shown on the plans, printed in bit" It being of great importance to tourists not only to know which are the best hotels in each town, but to know the class of the hotels at such towns or villages as they may purpose visiting, our lists of hotels are printed in three specimens of type. SCHWEIZERHOF designates, large hotel of the very highest class ; SCHWEIZERHOF, good first class hotel ; &?i x-eizerhof, second class hotel or country inn. TRAVELLING EXPENSES AND HOTELS. The exact cost of the railway and diligence fares on any proposed trip can be ascertained before leaving at any of the offices of Messrs Thos. Cook & Sons, or any of the other leading tourist agencies, and considerable trouble and expense can be saved by taking tickets in this way. Round tickets for the more frequented routes, at reduced rates, are also supplied at the chief railway stations in Switzerland. The average charges in first-class hotels are, for bedroom, 2 frs. x 1XTROD UC'TOR Y IS FORM. to 5 frs. First breakfast (tea, coffee, chocolate, bread, butter, honey), 1 fr. to 14 frs. Second breakfast, 2J to 4 frs. ; dinner, 4 to 6 frs. ; lights, 1 fr. ; service, 1 fr. Pension arrangements can generally be made from 10 frs. to 15 frs. per day, according to accommodation required. At second-class hotels : bedroom from 1^ to 2i frs. ; early breakfast, 1 fr. ; second breakfast, 2 to 2^ frs. ; dinner, 2j to 3 frs. ; generally no charge for lights or attendance. No rule can be given for gratuities, which, except at the Schweizerhof at Lucerne, Hotel Geissbach at Geissbach, and Steinbeck Hotel at Coire, are always expected to a greater or less extent. Tourists leaving their hotel in the morning are strongly advised to settle their bill over night. Switzerland is full of excellent pensions, at which the charges vary from as low as 4 frs. up to 15 frs. In making a bargain the traveller should always ascertain whether his room is included in the charge. Out of Vie. season many of the hotels give pension from 6 to 10 frs. per day. The various tourist agencies supply hotel coupons at 8s. per day, including breakfast (tea, coffee, &c. ), dinner, bedroom, lights, and attendance, or 10s. with meat breakfast or lunch in addition. We would particularly recommend tourists intending to purchase circular tickets or hotel coupons, to deal only with reliable estab- lishments. GENERAL HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. Passports. Though passports are not necessary, tourists are recommended to always carry them. They afford proof of identity at bankers, poste-restantes, &c. ; are the means of obtaining admis- sion to many interesting sights ; and often have proved most useful in cases of accident or sudden illness. Hallway Travelling. On all continental lines the exact amount of the fare is stamped on the tickets. The fare, should be tendered in francs and not in English bank notes or gold, as the rate of exchange at the railway stations will sometimes be found anything but satisfactory. Always count your change. In spite of all that has been said to the contrary, the second class in Switzerland is not so comfortable as the first, and is always more crowded. However, a most respectable class of travellers use the second class, and except for night travelling, the extra comfort is hardly worth the additional cost. Always be at the station in time to secure a good seat in the train. All luggage in Switzerland is charged for, except such small packages as can be taken into the carriage. All luggage except that taken into the carriage must be registered before starting. The trains seldom wait long enough at the stations to give time for a meal. A luncheon basket taken into the carriage will often be found a great boon. Always carry a local railway time table. If Cook's tickets are taken, Cook's "Continental Time Table" will be found useful. Smoking is permitted in all carriages except those marked Non fumeurs or Nicktraucher, and compartments reserved for ladies. W.C. carriages or Cabinets Amlulants are attached to most Swiss trains. To those who can afford the luxury, the Wagons-lit s are strongly recommended for night travelling. The lights in the Swiss carriages are generally bad ; a railway reading lamp will help to pass IN TROD UCTOR Y IN FO RMA TION. xi away many a tedious hour after dark. A very small pillow covered with dark silk or cottoa will be found an invaluable comfort. Circular Tickets. On stopping over at any station the ticket must be stamped at the ticket office both on arrival and departure. Always be careful to see that the conductor when collecting the tickets tears out the proper coupon. Money. English bank notes and gold can be exchanged every- where. The rate of exchange is generally 25 frs. to 1, but a little more than this can be obtained at respectable banks or exchange offices. English silver is of no use, except at a very low exchange. Diligences, extra post, carriages, and horses. Always secure your places as long before starting as possible. The most desirable places are the coupe and banquette, the banquette being the most comfortable in fine weather, and affording the best opportunity for sjeing the country. Allowance for luggage, 33 Ibs. on ordinary r jutes, 22 Ibs. on high mountain routes. Seats may be booked by letter enclosing the fare. Children under seven, half fare. Extra Post (under management of the Government) costs 50 c. per horse per kil., or 80 c. per mile in addition to the carriage, for which the charges are 2-5 seats, 20 c. per kil. , or 32 c. per m. ; 6 seats, 25 c. per kil. , or 40 c. per m. Larger carriages, 30 c. per kil. , or 48 c. per m. There is a carriage tax in addition of from 2 to 4 frs. These charges include driver's fee. Extra post can be had at an hour's notice at the post stations. Where change of horses is not required, private carriages can be hired at 15 to 20 frs. per day, for 1 horse ; 2 horses, 25-30 frs. Bar- gain necessary, and written agreement desirable. Always see the carriage and horses yourself when hiring. Sometimes return carri- ages can be had at less than these rates. Gratuity to coachman, 1-1 frs. per horse. Horses or mules, 10 to 12 frs. per day, with a gratuity of 1J to 2 frs. Guides. 7 to 8 frs. per day. Guides carry 15 to 20 Ibs. of baggage. If dismissed from tome, 6 frs. per day for the return journey. To those who can afford the expense, the services of a guide will be found well worth the outlay. Arrival at Stations. Always fix on your hotel before arriving, and on coming out of the station call at once for the porter of the hotel you have chosen. He will secure your baggage for you, and you will at once be saved the importunities of the other hotel porters. MISCELLANEOUS. Parcels and luggage can be sent through the Swiss Post Offices at reasonable charges. Washing is done at the hotels on short notice. Have all your linen plainly marked, and make out a washing list. Carry a packet of "Persian Insect Powder." Always lock the door of your room at night, and on leaving it when going out. Leave your valuables in charge of the landlord, and take a receipt. Always carry wax matches, and put them where you can find them at night xii INTROD UCTOR Y IXFOHM. 1 TION. Always check your hotel bills and call for them over night when you are leaving early in the next morning. Do not forget the following requisites soap, matches, sewing materials, pocket knife with cork-screw and scissors, sticking plaster, drinking cup, flask, string, and coloured spectacles. To prevent sun-burn, use glycerine and salad oil. To keep the feet in good condition, always after walking, wash with soap and hike warm water, and rub over with Eau de Cologne. Above all avoid travelling too fast, or being tempted by the brac- ing mountain air to walk too far, or over fatiguing yourself in any way. One day's indiscretion may spoil the pleasure of the whole trip, and it is infinitely more enjoyable to leisurely visit one dis- trict, than to rush through the country like so many tourists do, whose only object seems to be to cover the greatest possible distance in the least possible time. We may alter the popular proverb and say, ' ' What is worth seeing is worth seeing well. " The traveller will return home with but a faint idea of the beauties he has passed through if he spends nearly all his time in a railway carriage. His motto instead should be " Festina lente." We have not space, nor do we consider it necessary, to map out plans of tours for our readers. If the traveller wishes to avail him- self of the convenience of the circular tours arranged by the tourist agencies, he can obtain from them the fullest information when purchasing his ticket ; but if he wishes to arrange a tour for him- self, he can easily do so by referring to the large map of Switzer- land at the end of the book, 011 which all the various routes are clearly indicated, with the numbers of the routes in the guide, on referring to which he will find full information. He can La this way see what expenditure of time in travelling is necessary. Be- yond this the extent of the tour must of course depend on how long a stay he wishes to make at the various places he visits. HISTOEY. The first inhabitants of Switzerland of whom we have any his- torical record were the Helvetii, a Celtic tribe, and the Rhaeti, whose origin is unknown ; the former occupying the North- West, and the latter the South-Eastern portions. It is possible, however, that the mysterious Lake Dwellers antedated both these tribes. In 58 B.c. the country was invaded by the Romans under Julius Cresar, who subdued the Helvetii, founded the towns of Aventicum (p. 12), Vindonissa (p. 24), and Augusta Rauracorum (p. 4), and added the western portion of the country to Gallia. In 15 B.C. they also conquered the Rhaeti. and formed the newly acquired terri- tory into the province of Rhsetia, establishing as its capital the city of Curia Rhsetorum (Coire, p. 124). After their conquest both the native races adopted the language and habits of the Romans, who retained possession of the country for upwards of four centuries. About the commencement of the 5th cent, an in- vasion of barbarian tribes swept over the country, the Burgundians settling in the south-west, the Alemanni in the north, and the Ostrogoths in Rhaetia. These tribes in turn were subdued by the Franks during the Merovingian dynasty, under whose rule the INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. xiii country gradually became christianized, principally through the efforts of missionary monks from Ireland, who established the great monasteries of St Gallen (p. 29), Einsiedeln (p. 37), Dissentis (p. 131), and Pfaffers (p. 33). These monks also taught the people agriculture, reopened the Roman roads, and in many other ways hastened forward the spread of civilisation. On the dissolution of the Carlovingian Empire the country was again divided, the western portion falling to the share of Burgundy, while the eastern was united to the Duchy of Swabia. In 1032, partly by inheritance and partly by conquest, it came into possession of the German Emperors, and during the two succeeding centuries it was ruled on their behalf by the Dukes of Zahringen, who, though constantly at war with the nobles of Burgundy, did much to pro- mote the prosperity of the towns, especially Berne, Freiburg, and Burgdorf, which they had founded. On the decline of the German Empire the country was distracted by internecine wars which broke out between the powerful nobles, and which compelled the principal towns to unite in self defence, and enter into treaties with the feudal lords of the soil. One of these nobles, Count Rudolf of Hapsburg, who had been foremost in favouring the independence of the towns in 1273, succeeded in getting himself proclaimed em- peror. During his reign he continued his liberal policy, but his son, Albert 1. , who was an unprincipled and grasping monarch, attempted by a course of oppression, cruelty, and insult, to take away the independence his father had allowed the towns to enjoy, and to make himself an autocratic sovereign. The three Forest Cantons of Uri, Schwyz, and Untertcaldeii, however, which had never acknowledged more than a nominal rule of the House of Hapsburg, formed the famous conspiracy of the (Jriitli (p. 45), and rising drove out the Austrians. It was at this period also that we have the legendary history of William Tell (p. 71). Albert was afterwards assassinated by John of Swabia (p. 23), and a charter of independ- ence was granted to these cantons by the Emperor Henry VII., who wished to weaken the power of the House of Hapsburg. The Austrians then invaded the country with a large army, but were utterly routed at the battle of Morgarten, (p. 39). Between 1332 and 1353 the Cantons of Lucerne, Glarus, Zug, Zurich, and Berne joined the three Forest Cantons, and formed an independent con- federacy. Subsequent attempts by the Hapsburgs to subdue the country were unsuccessful, the Swiss being signally victorious at the battles of Sempach (p. 41), Ndfels (p. 35), and Stoss. The Swiss were next engaged in a war with Charles the Bold of Burgundy, whom they defeated with great bravery at Grandson {p. 14), Moral (p. 11), and Nancy. Their last great victory was over the Swabians at Dornack (p. 4) in 1499. After this period, which was the most glorious in the history of the country, the confederacy began to decline. The enormous booty captured during the previous wars had fostered a taste for luxury and warlike pursuits, which unfortunately led to many of the Swiss accepting mercenary service abroad. ' ' The common people in town and country were drawn away from honest labour to idleness, lewdness, and warlike undertakings, and reckless and abandoned habfts prevailed everywhere." New troubles sprang up with the Reformation, during which, bitter struggles took INTROD I CTOR Y IN FORM A TION place between the Cantons who had adopted the new faith, and those who remained faithful to the Church of Rome. War finally broke out, and resulted in the battle of Kappd (p. 50), in which the Protestants were defeated and their leader and pastor Zwingli slain. The Protestants, however, afterwards obtained a decisive victory at Villemergen in 1656. This religious contest terminated after the Toggenburg war ; and the peace of Aarau, in 1712, established absolute equality between the Cantons. On the breaking out of the French Revolution in 1798, Switzer- land was invaded by the republicans, whose forces rendered them- selves infamous by their atrocious cruelty (p. 67). In 1803 Napoleon restored the Cantonal system, and in 1815 the constitution was remodelled at the congress of Vienna. This was followed by the Revolution of 1830, the changes introduced in which led to the short civil war, in 1847, of the Sonderbund or Separate Leagues, which was happily soon terminated by the found- ing in 1848 of a new Federal Constitution, since which time the country has enjoyed peace and prosperity. TABLE OF MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. American. English. French, Swiss, or Italian. tuTinan. Austrian. Dots, cents. . d. Frt. centms. Marts Pf. Florins Ki . 1 OA 5 4 2 5 2| 25 20 10 10 005 50 40 20 20 9f 1 80 40 25 010 1 25 1 50 50 020 2 50 2 1 1 040 5 4 2 4 86 100 25 20 10 WEIGHTS (APPROXIMATE). 1 Gramme = g oz. 1 Hectogramme = 3 oz. 1 Kilogramme = 24 Ibs. 51 Kilogrammes = 1 cwt. 1015 Kilogrammes = 1 ton. LAND MEASURES. 1 Centiare = 1 sq. yd. 1 Are = acre. 1 Hectare = 2 acres. LINEAR MEASURES. 1 Centimetre = 2 inch. 1 Metre - 3 ft. 5% inches. 1 Kilometre = | mile. 8 Kilometres = miles. FLUID MEASURES. 1 Litre = If pints. 4| Litres = 1 gallon. I Hectolitre = 22 gallons. THERMOMETER Far. Cent. Reau- mur. Far. Cent. Reau- mur. Far. . Reau- Cent - mur.\ Far. ! Cent. Reau- mur. 104 40 32 77 25 24 55 13 10 j 37 3 2 98 37 29 76 24 19 50 10 8 35 1-26 1 95 35 28 68 20 16 41 5 4 i 33 1 0-8 86 30 24 59 15 12 39 4 3 32 o-o GUIDE TO SWITZERLAND. ROUTE I. BALE TO BERNE BY HERZOGENBUCHSEE. 66 M. in 3 to 4| h. ; Fares 10.60, 7.45, 5.30. This is the shortest and quickest route from Bale to Berne, though the route by the Miinster-Thal and Bienne is more picturesque (see Route 2). BALE. Railway Stations. CENTRAL STATION, south side of the town. Alsace and Swiss lines. Good BUFFET. Conveniences for washing. BADEN STATION, north side. Baden lines. Both stations are connected by a junction line (10 min.). Swiss time, 4 min. behind Baden, 26 min. in advance of French. Cabs. Stations to Town, 1-2 pers. 1 fr. 20 e. : 3-4 pers. 1.80. Between Stations, 1.50 and 2.50. Trunks, 30 c. each. Quarter hour, 1-2 pers. 80 c. ; 3-4 pers. 1.20. Each add. J hour, 40 c. and 60 c. 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., first i hour; 2 fr.; each add. J hour, 1 fr. Hotels. TROIS ROIS, excellent, on the Rhine. HOTF.L SUISSE, comfortable, opposite Central Station. HOTEL EULEB. Post, Schiff, on the Rhine; at Klein-Basel, Hotel Kraft; Hotel Croix, on the Rhine. Restaurants. At both STATIONS CENTRAL, best; KIBIGEK'S, Barfusser Platz. Cafes and Beer Gardens. TROIS ROIS, on the Rhine; NATIONAL, on the Rhine; DU THEATER; KISSLING KUENTZ, 19 Freien St.; WIRZ, near the bridge; BCRGVOGTEI Beer Garden and open air Theatre in Klein-Basel; SOMMER-CASINO, St Jacobsstrasse, Music, Hon., Wed., Frid., 7 p.m., Sun., 6 p.m., 80 c. ; MICHEL'S GARDEN, Music. Post and Tel. Offices, at Stations and Freien St. Eng. Ch. S., at Hotel Trois Rois. Zoological Garden, outside the Steinenthor, Concerts. Theatre, in the Theatre Strasse. Bftle or Basel (pop. 61,399), the capital of the half canton of Bale-Vule, was founded by the Romans in the 4th centy. The town proper lies on the left bank of the Rhine, being connected with KLEIN-BASEL on the right bank by three bridges. The ALTE BRUCKE, constructed of wood with half stone and half wooden piers, is 680 ft. long. In the centre is an obelisk with a barometer, thermometer, and a bronze figure of the LALLENKONIQ. The OBERE RoiUe \.-HALE TO BERNE. BRUCKE, higher up, is of iron. The UNTEKE BRUCKE, lower down, was completed in 1882. The Mniiater or Cathedral (1) is the chief attraction of Bale. It is a picturesque edifice of red sandstone, surmounted by two spires 220 feet high. The original building, in the Byzantine style, was built by the Emperor Henry II. (1010). In the earthquake of 1356 it was almost entirely de- stroyed. It was rebuilt in Gothic style in the 14th centy. The towers were completed in 1500. The interior was restored in 1857, and the exterior is now being thoroughly repaired. The only remaining portion of the original structure is the N. PORTAL or ST GALLUS' GATEWAY, which is adorned with figures of Christ in Judgment, the Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints. Over the door is a bas-relief of the Wise and Foolish Virgins, and at the sides representations of the works of charity. On the gable of the W. front are representa- tions of the Virgin and Child, the Emperor Henry II. and Empress Kunigunde. At the left side door is an equestrian figure of St George and the dragon, and at the right, one of St Martin. Between them are four grotesque figures; Heinrich II. with the model of the cathedral in his hand ; his consort Queen Kuni- gunde ; a figure of Satan ; and a figure of the " Mistress of the World." In 1431 the GREAT COUNCIL met in the Cathedral to take steps for the reformation of the church, but being ex- communicated by Pope Eugene IV. , it was dissolved in 1488 with- out having attained any result. (The cathedral is open free from 2 to 4 p.m. on Wed. during summer. At other times, admission 50 c., by apply- ing at No. 13 opposite.) The INTERIOR suffered greatly from the outrages of the bigots of the 16th centy. , but in its re- stored state is now one of the finest Protestant cathedrals in Europe. The PULPIT, dating from 1486, is beautifully carved. The large new ORGAN, built in 1858, is supported on a fine rood- loft built in 1381. In the choir, which is raised over the crypt, are statues of the Empress Anna, wife of Rudolf of Hapsburg, and her son Charles (1281). A tablet to ERASMUS stands near the font. The fine stained glass in the windows is modern. The Medieval Collection (open free, Sundays, 10.30 to 1, other times, 50 c. ; illustrated catalogue, 50 c., recommended), occupies three floors of the ad- joining building. It is reached by a winding staircase leading out of the choir. The first rooms con- tain a fine collection of iron- work, old bindings, gold and silver reliquaries, embroideries, and various mediaeval objects. The SAAL FUR HAUSALTHUMER, contains a collection of antique household furniture, clocks, hourglasses, &c. At the end of the room is the DiNiNG-RooM OF LUCAS ISELIN, of Bale, with its fine panelling and antique furni- ture dating from 1607 ; and the GOTHIC ROOM of 1460. Now ascending to the floor above, we find a collection of musical in- struments, old costumes, and various interesting relics of old Bale. Descending again, we enter the CONCILIUMS SAAL, where the Great. Council held their sittings. It contains the fragments of the famous fresco of the DANCE OF DEATH, which formerly was on the wall of the Dominican burial ground. A winding staircase descends from the Conciliums Saal to the crypt, in which is the Lalleiikoiilg, a painted head of iron which was formerly on the gate tower of the ALTE-BRUCKE. By means of 1. Cathedra , E 4. 2. Museum, 4, 3. University, D 4. 4. Rathaus, D 4-5. 5. Post Office, E 5 6. Arsenal, D 6. 7. Spalen Brunnen, D 6. 8. Spalen Thor, D 6. 9. Hospital, C 5. 10. BurfHsser Kirche, F 5. n. St. Elizabeth Kirche, F-Gs- 12. iCunsthalle, F 5. a. Hotel Trois Rois, D 4. b. Schweizer Hof. H 6. f. Hotel Euler, H 6. ^ ^ <. state^x ^J^Vvv^^^ 1 Rovle\.-BALE TO BERNE. machinery inside the head, which is constantly in motion, the face rolls its eyes and protrudes its tongue. A legend exists that it was put on the Bridge to deride the inhabitants of Klein-Basel. A door out of the crypt leads us to the Cloisters, which can also be entered from the street. The Cloisters, used till re- cently as family burial - places exten'd to the l*fnlz, a terrace 78 feet above the Rhine, com- manding a charming view. Be- side the cathedral is the house of ERASMUS. Passing along the Augustiner Strasse, we come to the Museum (2). (Open free, Sun., 10.15 to 12.30; Wed., 2 to 4 ; other times, 1 f r. Engravings open free, 2 to 5 Thar., and Sat.) The Museum is interesting for its collection of the works of the younger HOLBEIN, among which are HIS OWN PORTRAIT and the portrait of his friend BONI- FACE AMBEUBACH, who formed the greater part of the collec- tion ; HOLBEIN'S TABLE, painted with scenes from the life of a Swiss family ; a beautiful pen and ink drawing of the Meyer family; and two pictures of a school, painted as a sign for the school door. There are also many interesting works by other artists. The Collection of Antiquities contains what re- mains of the treasure of the cathe- dral ; coins, medals, vases, casts, &c. The University Library is in the same building. It contains over 200,000 volumes and 5000 MSS. Among the latter are many interesting records of reformation times. A little further on from the Museum on the opposite side of the street is the University (3), an unpretending building dating from 1460, and famous for its connection with the great name of Erasmus. In the Hall are upwards of 100 portraits of its famous scholars. Turning now to the left, past the CHURCH OF ST MARTIN, in which the reformer CEcolampadius (Haus- chien) first preached the refor- mation, we come to the Kathhuiis (4), or Town Hall, in the Market-place, erected 1508. On the frieze are the arms of the three original Swiss cantons Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden ; beneath them are the arms of Bale, and below these, a proces- sion of children. The interior is adorned with frescoes by Hans Bach and his son (1609), and with quaint wood carvings. Leaving the Rathhaus we come to the POST-OFFICE (5), formerly the Custom House. Continuing our route we come to the ARSENAL (6), which con- tains a small collection of arms and armour. In the Spalen- vorstadt is a curious fountain called the SPALENBRUNNEN (7). Beyond this is the Spalenthor(S), or St Paul's Gate (1400), an inter- esting relic of the early fortifica- tions. Two more of these towers have been restored, the ALBANS- THOR on the N., and the ST JOHANNSTHOR on the S. Re- tracing our steps we return to the St Peter's Graben, and going towards the river pass the PETEK'S PLATZ GARDEN, and the HOSPITAL (9), which is built on the site of the former palace of the Margraves of Baden. Other buildings not on this route are the BARFUSSER KIRCHE (10), built in the 14th centy. It is now used as a warehouse. Near by is the modern Gothic church of ST ELIZABETH (11). The in- terior is fine, and the stained glass windows, made at Munich, are well worth seeing. Near it on the Steinenberg is the KUNS- THALLB (12), (adm. fr.), with garden and restaurant. In the hall is a small collection of Route \.-BALE TO BERNE. modern paintings. At a little distance out of the town is the MONUMENT OF ST JACOB by F. Schloth, erected to the memory of the Swiss con- federates who fell fighting there against the 'French in 1444. The Swiss only numbered 1300 against 30,000 of their enemies, and were almost entirely annihi- lated. The inscription reads : " Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy." Excursions to AUGST (6 m.), which occupies the site of the Eoman city of Augusta Raura- corum, founded in the reign of Augustus. Great quantities of Eoman remains have been found here, most of which have been removed to the Museums of Bale and Schaffhausen. To THE CASTLE OF AKLESHEIM (4m. ), formerly the residence of the Bishops of Bftle. Two miles beyond Arlesheim is the BATTLEFIELD OF DORNACH, where 6000 Swiss defeated 15,000 Aus- trians. A bone-house near by is filled with the remains of both armies. HUNINGEN (3m.), once a strong fortress, is now used as an estab- lishment for fish-culture. Be- tween 20 and 30 million fish are annually distributed. Leaving Bale we travel through a pleasing but uninteresting country ; and after passing LAUFELFINGEN we enter the Haiicitstciii Tnnnel (If miles long), in the construction of which sixty-three men were buried alive by a fall of earth. Emerging from it we have our first glimpse of the Bcriicsc Alps, and a fine view of Olten, the old castle of AABBURG, and ruin of WART- BURG. The train now descends, and making a half circle, crosses the Aar, and we arrive at Olten (24J in., Buffet). (Hotels: SCHWEIZERHOF, Wyss. ) Trains wait a quarter to half an hour. Train to Berne on the right. Hcrzogenliiiclisee (41J m., generally 10 min. wait) (Hotel : Sonne). A branch line runs to Soleure. Biirgdorf (52 m., Buffet). (Hotels : Bahnhof and Guggis- berff at the station), is an im- portant and busy town. In the old castle of Burgdorf, Pestalozzi first established his celebrated school. The streets are quaintly built with arcades. At Burgdorf the line from Soleure to Berne joins in (p. 8). There is also a branch line to Langnau (p. 51). Passing ZOLLIKOFEN (61 J) the line ascends to the UYLER FELD or drill-field, which commands a magnificent VIEW OF THE BER- NESE ALPS. Approaching Berne we cross over the Aar on a lofty bridge 540 feet long and 165 high. Below the rails is a carriage- road. BEKNE. Arrival. Buffet at the Station. Cabs. One horse, J hr., l-2pers. 80 c. ; 3-4 pers., 1.20; each add. J hr., 40 c. and 60 c. Two horse, 1.20. Trunks, 20 c. 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., double fare. Whole day over 8 hrs., 1-2 pers., 15 fr. ; 3-4 pers., 20 fr. Hotels. The two largest and finest Hotels are the BERNERHOF and BELLEVUE, both with fine views of the Alps. SCHWEIZERHOF, near the Station, good; FALKE, quiet and good; Zahringer Hof, Starch, Pfistern, Affe, Wilder Mann, moderate charges. Restaurants. SCHWEIZFKHOF, near the Station; CAFE CASINO, with view of the Alps from the Terrace. INDEX 1. Kafigthurm, C 4. ! n. Kleine Schanze, B 5. 2. Clock Tower, D 4. i la. Nat. Hist. Museum, C 3. 3. Kindlifresser Brunnen, 13. Kunst Museum, C 3. D 4. 14. Botanic Garden, C-D a. 4. Bear's Den, H 4. HOT*! e 5. Cathedral, E-F 5. u r 6. Cathedral Terrace, E-F 5. i :^^y^\\f&^:Y -> Route 1. BALE TO BERNE. Cafes and Beer Gardens. PAVILIONS ON THE CATHEDRAL TERRACE. open alter 1 p.m. week days, 4 p.m. Sun. Music. CAFE DU THEATKE, CAFE SCHANZLI, over the Railway bridge, Concerts and Summer Theatre KRONE, Gerechtigkeitsgasse; BERNA, Schauplatzgasse. Post and Tel. Office, near the Station, to the right on entering. Eng. Ch. S. in the Cathedral, 10.30 a.m. and 4.30 p m. Batns. Swimming Bath in the HOLTZ PLATZ; River Baths below the UNTEEE BKUCKE, water very cold; Warm Baths, BCCHLESS, FRICKBAD. Berne (pop. 45,000), the capi- tal of Switzerland, is situated on a lofty promontory 1700 feet above the sea, formed by the winding Aar, which sur- rounds it on three sides. Many of the houses are massive struc- tures, resting upon arcades, which are lined with shops, and furnish covered walks on both sides of the streets, the latter being adorned with numerous fountains. The environs afford fine promenades, said, from the platform on which, the CATHEDRAL stands, the view of the Bernese A Ips is very fine. Six of the most celebrated peaks are in view upon clear days. On the east is the Wetterhorn, next are the Schreckhorn, the Finster-Aar- horn, the Eiger, the Moneh, the Jungfrau, the Gletscherhorn, the Mittaghorn, and the Blumlis Alp. Berne takes its name from the old German for Bear. It has its effigy for its arms, and its figure is perpetually recurring to the eye. The Bears' -ditch, near the Nydeck Briicke is a menagerie of these animals, maintained at the public charge. The French took away the bears to Paris, and their restoration was one of the first cares of the citizens upon the return of peace. Since 1849 Berne has been the seat of the Swiss government, and the residence of the foreign ministers. Starting from the RAILWAY STATION and making our way along the Spitalgasse we pass the KAFIGTHUUM (1) or cage tower, now used as a prison. At the end of the Marktgasso we come to the old Clock Tower (2) built in 1191. This tower originally guarded the outer wall. The large dial shows the day of the week and month, phases of the moon, and signs of the zodiac. Three minutes before every hour a wooden cock Haps its wings and crows, and at this signal a proces- sion of bears marches round the figure of a king. When they have passed, the cock then crows again, the hour being struck with a hammer by the figure of a fool. A bearded figure at the same time reverses an hour glass and also counts the hours by raising his sceptre and opening his mouth. The hour is then again struck on the large bell in the tower by a stone figure, and the performance con- cludes by the cock crowing a third time. Turning to the left up the Kornmarkt we see the KINDLTFRESSER-BKUNNEN (3) or ogre fountain. The principal figure is that of an ogre about to devour a child, while others reserved for the same fate peep out from his pockets. Below are the ever recurring troop of bears. Proceeding along the Kramgasse and the Gerechtig- keitsgasse, and crossing the Nydeck Briicke, we come to the Bears' Den (4), where the bears are kept at the cost of the town. In 1861 an English- man attempted to walk round the inner parapet for a wager, fell in, and was torn to pieces by one of the bears. Retracing our steps and turning down the Johanngasse we come upon the Minister (5) (entrance W. door, 50 c.), a small but excellent G Route l.BALE TO BERNE. example of Gothic architecture, built between 1421 and 1573, and restored in 1850. It was de- signed by Steinbach, the architect of Strassburg cathedral, its para- pet and ornamentation being very similar to those of that building. A flight of 223 steps leads to a gallery in the tower commanding a magnificent view (adm. 50 c.). The large bell in the tower weighs 23, 700 Ibs. The fine sculptures on the W. FRONT represent the last Judgment, on each side of which are representa- tions of the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The interior is plain, but of excellent proportions. The fine communion table of black marble was brought away from the Cathedral of Lausanne in 1561. The baptismal font and the pulpit date from the 15th centy. At the end of the nave, to the right, is a gaudily- coloured monument to Berthold of Zakringen. To the left of the nave is a fine marble group of Christ and the Virgin at the tomb, by the Bernese artist Lohn, the designer of the statue of Berthold V. on the Platz. On the walls opposite, are several marble tablets on which are cut the names of 19 officers, 683 soldiers, and 2 women who fell at Grau- holz, 6 m. from Berne, in the French invasion of 1798. The fine N. and E. windows date from the 15th centy. , and repre- sent scenes from our Lord's pas- sion, the Eucharist, and some of the parables. The S. windows are modern. The carved choir stalls of 1523 deserve examination. The ORGAN is played daily at 6. 30 p. m. (adm. 1 fr. ; party, 2 frs.). The statue in front of the cathedral is to the memory of RUDOLF VON ERLACH, the victor of Laupen. The Cathedral Terrace (6) was formerly the burial-ground. As the sun goes down and the " after-glow " begins to gild the mountains, the panorama of the Alps from this point is in- describably lovely. The bronze statue in the Platz is that of BERTHOLD vox ZAHRINGEN, founder of Berne. There is a legend that a drunken student once leapt his horse over the para- pet here, and though the horse was dashed to pieces, the rider escaped with a few broken ribs. Leaving the Terrace we come to the UNIVERSITY (7), founded 1839, and the Historical Museum (8), (open Tues. Saty., 3 to 5: Sun., 10.30 to 12, free; other times. 1 pers. 1 fr., each add. pers. 50 c.), containing a most interesting col- lection of archaeological and his- torical remains, among them the field altar of Charles the Bold captured at Grandson (see p. 14), the ancient throne of the magis- trates of Berne, the armour of Gustavo Von Erlach, curious figures of William Tell and his son, carved in the 15th centy., a gigantic figure of Christ which was placed on the Thorthurm in 1496, and taken down in 1870. There is also a very fine collec- tion of tapestry of the 15th and 16th centuries, and a number of banners captured from the Austrians in 1476 (pp. 12-14). THE LIBRARY (9) contains a large collection of works on Swiss history. Now passing the fine new KIHCHENFLD BRIDGE, com- pleted in 1883, and walking along the Ampthausgasse and into the Bundegasse, we see the fine buildings of the FEDERAL COUN- CIL HALL (10), completed in 1857, where the sittings of the legislative assemblies, held in July, are open to the public (at other times, adm. 1 fr. 1 to 3 pers.). There is a magnificent view from the gallery on the roof. A short distance farther on is the KLEINS SCHANZE (11), fine PANORAMA by Imfeld. The remaining sights of Route HALE TO BIENNE AND BERNE. Berne worth attention are the Natural History Museum (12), (Tues. and Sat., 2 to 5; Sun., 10.30 to 12.30, free; other times, 1 pers., 1 fr., each add. pers. 50 c.), where is the celebrated black crystal weighing 270 Ibs., found in the Furca, and the stuffed skin of the noble St Bernard dog Barry, who saved thirty-nine lives in the St Bernard Pass, and was finally shot in mistake by a traveller whom he was trying to rescue (p. 112). Opposite is the new KUNST MUSEUM (13) (open daily, 9 to 12 and 2 to C; adrn. 50 c.; Sun., 10.30 to 12, free), which contans the Municipal Pic- ture Gallery. Turning now to the left and crossing the railway bridge, we pass the BOTANIC GARDEN (14), and reach the s.chii n/ 1 i, a terrace commanding the FINEST VIKVV OF THE BERNESE ALPS. There is a cafe in the grounds. Beyond the Schanzli is the large MILITARY DEPOT of the Canton Borne, erected at a cost of 4J million francs. It contains an arsenal and museum of antiquities (fee to attendant). ROUTE II. BALE TO BIENNE AND BERNE BY THE MtiNSTERTHAL. Railway to Bienne, 56 m., 3 to 4 /.; Fares 11.30, 9.90, 5.65. liiennc to Berne, 21 m., 1 to 1J h. ; Fares 3.75, 2.65, 1.90. Leaving Bale from the Central Station, we pass the battlefields of St Jacob and Dornack (p. 4). The first stop of importance is at Laiifen (14 m. Sonne), a prettily situated village at the confluence of the Birs and Liitzel. Hdi'-mim I (_' 1 1 1 1. Ours, Faucon; Buffet at the stn.) is a quaint old town with a chateau once the residence of the Bishops of Bale. Delemont is the junction for the French line to Belfort and Paris. Two miles beyond Delemont the train enters the wild and roman- tic valley of the Miiusterllial. The line is carried through the ravine by a series of viaducts, tunnels, and galleries to Mtiiister (32 m. Krone, Hirsch). From Munster the ascent of the WEIS- SENSTEIN (4200 ft. ) can be made (see p. 9). Distance, 10 miles; 3$ hs. ; carriage from Munster, '.'<) frs. ; from St Joseph, 15 frs. A diligence runs from Munstor to St Joseph, 5 m. The road passes the Wilhelm Tell Hotel and ascends on the right to Grandfelden, 2 m. , and Gremine, 9 m. ; then ascends the ravine of the Rausse for 2 m. to St Joseph. Carriage-road from St Joseph to the summit in 2 hs. , or path in 1^ h. The descent can be made to Soleure (see p. 8) in about 2 hs. The view from the sum- mit is superb. Leaving Munster the line tra- verses another wide gorge to Soiiceboz (47 m. Couronne; Buffet at stn.), the junction for LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS, LOCLE, and NEUCHATEL. [This line runs through wild and beautiful scenery. CHAUX-DE-FONDS (pop. 22,500) (Flew de Lis, Lion d'Or), in a bleak and desolate situation, is an important watchmaking centre. LOCLE (pop. 10,500) (Hotel du Jura) is also famed for its watches and Routed BALE TO SOLEURE AXD BERXE. jewellery. Beyond their manufactures there is little of interest in these towns. A pleasant excursion from Le Locle is to the Col des Roches, 1 m., the Lac des Srenets, 3J m., and the Saut du DoubS, a picturesque water- fall 80 ft. in height. Twenty-four miles beyond Locle is NEUCHATEL. See p. 13.] Resuming our route at Sonce- boz, we pass through the valley of Luz, and enter a narrow ravine, one of the most picturesque on the line. Within a few miles there are four tunnels, beyond the first of which is a cascade formed by the Luz, and on the hill the ruins of the chateau Rondchatel. We then cross the ravine of the Luz over a high bridge, and leaving it, have a beautiful view of the plains around Bienne, and in the distance, in fine weather, of the whole range of the Alps, from Unterwalden to Mont Blanc. Descending through vineyards, we soon reach Bicniie, 56m. (pop. 11,600) (BlELERHOF ; Couronne; Buffet at stn. ), prettily situated on the lower slopes of the Jura. The old walls surmounted with watchtowers still exist. In the MUSEUM SCHWAB is an interest- ing collection of antiquities from the Lake Villages, old arms, &c. Beautifully shaded avenues en- circle the town. The Lake of Bienne is 10 m. long by 3 broad. Its scenery is rather tame, and it owes its chief interest to the ILE ST PIERRE, for some months the residence of Rousseau. The CHASSERAL, 5279 ft., can be as- cended by carriage road from Bienne. Distance 12 m. Inn on the summit, which commands a magnificent view. The railway from Bienne to Berne crosses the Thiele and the Aare before arriving at Lyss, which is the junction for the line to the S. to Payerne (see page 12), and N. to Soleure (see below). At Zollikofen we join the main line to Berne (see page 5). ROUTE III. BALE TO SOLEURE AND BERNE. Railway to Soleure by Olten, 46 m., in 2.J h.; Fares 8.10c., 5.6oc., 4.5c. From Soleure to Berne, in 2 h., either by Burgdorf (p. 4) or by Lyss (p. 11). The line as far as Olten is described in Route I. From Olten the line follows the valley of the Diinnern to Oensingen, and then crosses into the valley of the Aare. Soleiire or Solotlmriii (pop. 7700, Hot. KRONE, Bargetzi). There are two stations, Neu-Solo- thurm on the R. bank of the river, and Alt-Solothurm on the L. bank, 1 m. farther on. Alight at Neu-Solothurm. Soleure, the ancient Roman Salodurum, is the oldest town in the north-west of Europe, with the exception of Treves (see clock tower below). In the 17th cent, it was surrounded by strong fortifications, which took 60 years in building. Most of them were removed in 18-35 by order of the Federal Council. The Cathedral of St I rsus, a large marble building of Florentine architecture, was built 1762-73. The interior, 195 ft. long and 135 ft. wide, contains several pictures and bas reliefs. In the sacristy are some fine missals. In front of the facade Routed BALE TO SOLEURE AND BERNE. are two fountains, representing Moses striking the rock, and Gideon wringing the fleece. Near the cathedral is the Arsenal, a quaint building of 1580, which contains the finest collection of ancient weapons and armour in Switzerland. Among the stan- dards are many captured from the Burgundians and Austrians at Sempach (p. 41), Grandson (p. 14), Morat (p. 12), Dornach (p. 4). Worthy of notice is a mitrail- leuse of the 15th centy. ; an executioner's sword, said to have dealt the death blow to over 100 victims ; a large plaster group of the reconciliation of the cantons by Nicholas Von der Fliih (p. 58). On entering a room on the second floor, an automaton figure of a soldier presents arms. In the Market Place is the ancient Clock Tower. Tradi- tion says it was first built by the Romans 4 centuries before the Christian era, and that the stones were cemented with wine and eggs. The present erection pro- bably dates from the time of fhe Burgundian kings. On the dial is a picture of the old town of Soleure surrounded by the signs of the zodiac. Under- neath are the patrons of the town, St Ursus and St Victor. The figures move at the hour like those in Berne. The whole was re- stored in 1880. On the tower is a Latin inscription referring to the antiquity of the town : "In Celtis nihil est Solodoro anti- quius, unis Exceptis Treviris, quorum ego dicta soror." In the Jesuits' Church is a cruci- fixion by Holbein. The MUSEUM, near the bridge, contains a fine collection of fossils and minerals. Near the post office is the house, 5 Bieler Strasse, where the Polish patriot Kosciusko spent the close of his life. His heart and viscera are buried in the little churchyard of Zuchwyl, about a mile distant. His body was sent to Cracow and buried in the cathedral there, beside his fellow patriots Sobieski and Poniatowski. Near the town traces of the glacial period have lately been discovered similar to those at Lucerne, (p. 42). An interesting excursion from Soleure is the ascent of the Weis- senstein, 4200 ft. The view from the summit, though not so magnificent, embraces a larger area than even that from the Rigi. On a clear day we see in the far distance the whole of the Bernese, Tyrolese, and Pennine Alps, with the lakes of Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat. On the summit is the fine HOTEL and KURHAUS WEISSENSTEIN, very comfortable, and most reasonable pension. The ascent can be made by carriage (20 frs., and 8 frs. more if carriage is kept over night. 7J m. in 2| hrs. Time to walk 3 hrs. A char-a-banc also starts at 5 p.m., returning next morning; ascent 6 frs., descent 3 frs.). The carnage road leads past the Hermit- age of St Verena (1 m.) St Verena was a pious virgin who accom- panied the Theban legion (p. 96). Being sorely tempted by the Devil, he was on the point of carrying her off when she saved herself by clinging to the rock. The marks of her finger nails are shown. On the R. is the dwell- ing of the Hermit, and on the left a little Chapel, hewn in the rock, con- taining a life-size representation of the Holy Sepulchre. At the Hermitage a shorter road can be taken by pedestri- ans by following a path to the right, indicated by sign posts. A still more extensive view can be had from the HASENMATT (4750 ft.), li m. from the Hotel. The descent from the Weissen- stein can be made to Munster in 2 hrs. (p. 7). 10 Routed BERNE TO LAUSANNE AND GENEVA. EOUTE IV. BERNE TO LAUSANNE AND GENEVA BY FREIBURG. Railway to Freiburg, Ifli m., 1 h. Fares 3.75, 2.70, 2 fcs. To Lausanne, 61 m., 3 to 4 h. ; Fares 10.50, 7.85, 5.80. To Geneva, 99 m., 4J to G h. ; Fares 17.50, 12.35, 9 fcs. Passengers for Vevey and Montreiix should alight at Chexbres, and take the omnibus to Vevey, 50 min., 1 fc. ; thence train or steamer to Montreux. Best views on the left. Note. The trains back out of Berne Station. The line as far as Freiburg passes through pretty and vary- ing scenery, with occasional glimpses of the Bernese Alps. Shortly before arriving at Frei- burg we cross the Saarine over a viaduct 270 ft. high and 1100 ft. long. Freiburg (20 miles, pop. 12,000 : GRAND HOTEL DE FREI- BURG, Hotel Monney, Hotel Na- tional), the capital of the canton, was founded by Berthold of Zahringen in 1175. It is most picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence overhanging the Saa- rine. Travellers are strongly re- commended to break their jour- ney at Freiburg for a few hours. The town and its magnificent suspension bridges are not visible from the railway. The town and bridges can be seen in H to 2 hours, by walking from the sta- tion through the town, past the Church of St Nicholas (see be- low), and crossing the river by the Suspension Bridge. This bridge, which has the longest span in Europe, is 905 ft. long and 180 ft. above the river. Each of its four cables, which are 1230 ft. long, contains over 1000 strands of wire. These cables are secured to 128 anchors buried deep in the ground. The total cost of the bridge was 600,000 frs. The view of the town as we cross to the opposite bank is most pic- turesque, with its many coloured houses, and ancient towers and battlements crowning the rocky slope. We now ascend to the right, and cross over the Pont le Ciotteroii, another fine sus- pension bridge, 689 ft. long, and 317 ft. above the bottom of the gorge. It is hung from rock to rock without pillars. Now con- tinuing along the steep bank of the Saarine, we finally descend and recross it over a stone bridge, and then ascend into the town through a curious street called the Court Chemin, which passes up over the face of the rock, the roofs of some of the houses serv- ing as pavements for the portion of the street above them. The principal objects of inter- est in the town are the Chnrch of St Nicholas, founded in 1285, completed in 1500, and restored in 1856. It is a plain Gothic edifice, sur- mounted by a tower 286 ft. high. This tower, which is of delicate and graceful architecture, was erected by the municipality in 1492 to rival that of the cathedral in Freiburg in Bersgau. On the portal under the tower is a curious bas-relief of the Last Judgment. Below the figure of our Saviour is that of St Nicholas. To the left, a fiend is putting his weight into the scales in which the Angel of Judgment is weighing mankind. The in- terior contains nothing of special Route 5. SOLEUKE TO LAUSANNE. 11 interest except the organ, which is one of the finest in Europe. It has 67 stops and 7800 pipes, some of which are 32 ft. in length. Performances are given daily, except Saturdays and feast days, between 8 and 9 P.M. Admission 1 f c. , but no performance is given unless the total amount taken is 20 fcs. The K:i t Iia ii s. standing on the site of the ancient palace of the Dukes of Zahringen, dates from 1502. In the square opposite, is a venerable Lime Tree, 15 ft. in circumference. Tradition says that after the victory of Morat in 1476 (see below), a youth of Frei- burg, though mortally wounded in the battle, was so anxious to bring the good news to his towns- men, that he ran all the way. Reaching the square, he was so exhausted by loss of blood that he could only gasp put the word ' ' victory " before he expired. With him he bore a twig of lime, which was taken from his dying hand and planted on the spot. The large building near the Morat Gate is the Jesuits' College. The Lycee contains a Museum of mediaeval and antique objects, a few pictures, weapons, coins, &c. Diligences for Morat (see below) run twice daily, in 2J hours ; and for Payerne (p. 12) three times daily, in 2^ hours. Leaving Freiburg, the first station of importance is Romoiit(36m. C'erf: Couronne). Branch line to Bulle (see Route XLVI.). The town, surrounded by a wall, is picturesquely situated on a small hill. Conspicuous from the railway are two curious ancient round towers, the origin of which is not known. The old castle is supposed to have been founded by the kings of Bur- gundy in the 10th century. At i'licxbres (53^m. ) passengers for 1 ' IScaiix Arts, a handsome modern building, is a Picture Gallery of modern Swiss paintings. Many of them are of considerable merit. (Adm. 50 c., Sun. 1 to 4 free). Adjoining is the Mus^E CHALLANDE, containing a collec- tion of Alpine animals (adm. 1 fc. ). Neuchatel is celebrated for its educational advantages, French being here spoken with great purity. There are several excel- lent schools and colleges. In the principal College (adm. 50 c. ; Thurs. 10-12, Sun. 2-4, free) is a museum of natural history founded by Prof. Agassiz, a fine library, and a collection of relics from the lake dwellings. Near the College in the Place Purry is a statue of David de Purry, a poor boy of Neuchatel, who by his industry made 4 million francs, which he left to his native city. On the Quay, which affords a charming promenade, is an indicator pointing out the differ- ent Alpine peaks visible from Neuchatel. Excursions To the Cbaninont (3850 ft., Hotel du Chaumont near the summit, best ; Hotel du Chateau). 1 m. along the Chaux-de-Fonds road, then path, 1 hrs. ; Char-a- banc, 10 frs. there and back. To the Plerre-a-foot or toad stone (1 hr. ), a curious mass of granite 62 by 48 ft.. As the formation of the Jura is entirely limestone, this rock must have been brought down from some distant range by a glacier. To the Gorge de Seyon (1 hr. ) on the Vallengin road, a narrow cleft in the rock through which the Seyon issues from the Val de Ruz. To the CrcMX de Vent (Train to Xolralgue, \ hr., then walk 2 hrs.), a curious basin in the mountains, shaped like a horse- shoe, 4800 ft. above the sea level, 600 ft. deep, and 3 miles round. This basin when the weather is changing becomes filled with surging masses of vapour, presenting an extraor- II Route!. NEUCHATEL TO LAUSANNE. dinary appearance. Return to Geneveys, thence walk 1 hr. Neuchatel by descending on the Magnificent view of the Jura, other side to Si Aubin, thence by To the Gorge dc la Reuse, a rail (^ hr. ) wild and romantic glen, well To the Tete dc Rang (4700 worth a visit. Train 20 min. to ft. Inn), rail 1J hr. to Hauts- Boudry (see page 14). EOUTE VII. NEUCHATEL TO LAUSANNE AND GENEVA BY YVERDON. (a) Railway to Lausanne, 50 m. in 2 h.; 8 fcs., 5.80 c., 4.20 c. To Geneva 8-5 m., in 3 to 3 h.; 13.10 c.; 9.40 c.; 6.80 c. The journey can be plea- santly varied by taking the steamer on the Lake of Geneva for Geneva at Ouchy or Merges. See Route L. Best views on the left. (6) Steamer on Lake Neuchatel to Estavayer, 1 h. ; 2 fcs. and thence sail on the east side of the Lake to Yyerdon. For steamer route, see page 15. a. Leaving Neuchatel (see page 13), we cross the ravine of Serrieres over a lofty viaduct, and at Auvernier, the junction of the Pontarlier line, we quit the lake and reach t'olombier (5 m., Maison de Ville), once the residence of the Scotch Marshall Keith, the general and friend of Frederick the Great, and gover- nor of Neuchatel. From Boudry, the birthplace of Marat, the CREUX DE VENT can be ascended in 3 hrs. (see pages 13 and 15). [From Boudry we also visit the Gorges de la Reuse, in 2 hrs. there and return. Crossing the viaduct, we take a path to the left at the end of the village of Trois-Rods, which brings us in J hr. to the entrance. A rocky path leads up the wild and pic- turesque gorge, the overhanging rocks frequently meeting over our heads. Through it the river Reuse rushes in a series of beautiful cascades. On the left is the Chalet aux dies (fee for use of path). Passing a huge cavern on the right, we see above us the Pontarlier railway. Tourists wish- ing to return to Neuchatel can ascend to Champ du Moulin Station in f hr., (Hotel da Sentier des Gorges), whence trains run several times daily.] At Bevaix (9 m.) the line re- turns to the shore of the lake. At Concise (14 m.) immense quantities of remains of the lake dwellings have been found. At Grandson (21 m., Louis d'Or), the railway passes through the grounds of the ancient Chateau of the barons of Grandson. The chateau contains a small museum of antiquities and natural his- tory. There is a fine view from the terrace. The old church, formerly a Benedictine abbey, dates from the 10th century. Grandson, in 1476, was besieged by Charles the Bold. After he had treacherously induced the starving inhabitants to surrender, under promise of their lives being spared, he hung and drowned them by hundreds. Infuriated by his cruelty, the Swiss army, though only numbering 20,000 against 50,000 Burgundians, attacked him between Concise and Courcelles, and utterly routed him. He was compelled to fly for his life to the mountains with only five followers. The Swiss captured an enormous booty, in- cluding 600 standards and 121 cannon. It was said that gold and jewels were dealt out after the battle by handfuls. Many of the relics captured here are in the museum at Berne and Soleure (pp. 5-8). Yverdon (24 m., HOTEL DE LONDRES) is prettily situated at the foot of the lake, at the influx Route 8. PONTARLIER TO NEUCllATKL. of the Thiele. In the ancient chateau, erected by Conrad of Zahringen in 1135, Pestalozzi presided over his celebrated school. It now contains a small museum of Roman and Celtic antiquities. At Cossonay (38 m.) the line joins the route from Pontarlier. For remainder of route to Lau- sanne and Geneva see Route ix. I>. Koutc by si miner to Esta- vaycr. Leaving Neuchatel, the steamer crosses the lake to EKtuvaycr (Maison de Ville), with its interesting old castle of Cldliuvux. From Estavayer the railway runs into Yverdon (see above), or connection can be made with Payernc, and thence to Lausanne (see p. 92.) EOUTE VIII. PONTARLIER TO NEUCHATEL THROUGH THE VAL DE TRAVERS. Railway, 33m., in 2 to 2| h.; Fares 6.10, 4.70,3.55. Best views on the right. Pontarlier is on the direct route from Paris to Western Switzerland. See Koute Pontarlier (de la Paste : Na- tioiiaJ) is a small town in France near the Swiss frontier. Luggage is examined here. Leaving Pon- tarlier the line crosses the Doubs, after which we enter the defile of La, Chise, a natural gate- way, strongly fortified, com- manding the passage between France and Switzerland. To the right on the summit of the pre- cipice is the ancient FORT DE Joux, which was blown up with dynamite in 1877. Above it, on the other side, a new fort has been built. We now reach the frontier. At Verricrcs, the first Swiss town, the army of Gen. Bourbaki, numbering 5000 men, in January 1881, worn out with cold and hunger, crossed the frontier and surrendered to the Swiss. Leaving Verrieres we soon begin to descend into the Val le Travcrs, where the scenery becomes exceedingly picturesque. The first portion of the descent is through the narrow gorge of La Chaine, so called from a chain having been stretched across it by the Swiss to bar the entrance of the artillery of Charles the Bold during the wars with Burgundy. At St Sulpice the river Reuse rises out of the ground. Its source is supposed to be Lake Tallieres, 5 m. distant. Flcnrier (Hot. Couronne) has large watch factories. Motiers Travcrs (Hot. de la Ville) was the residence of Rousseau after his expulsion from Yverdon by the Swiss Govern- ment. He wrote his celebrated " Lettres de Montagne " here. A pleasant excursion is to the Ravine of Raisse (1^ h.), a wild gorge in which are a number of cascades. Behind the town is a cavern 3^ m. in length. At its entrance is a pretty waterfall. From Moraigiie we can ascend theCrenxilii\"eiitin2hrs.(p.l3), descending on the other side to Boudry or St Aubin. Passing through four tunnels, beautiful views of the Lake of Neuchatel and the Alps now open up before us as we descend to Neuchatel (p. 13). Route \Q. BALE TO SCHAFFHAUSEX. ROUTE IX. PONTARLIER TO LAUSANNE AND GENEVA. Railway, express from Paris to Geneva via Pontarlier, 363 m.. In 15J h. ; Fares 70.35 c., 52.30 c. Pontarlier to Lausanne, 45 m., in 2 to 3 h. ; Fares S.50 c., 5.88 c., 4.20 c. Leaving Pontarlier the Lau- sanne line quits the Neuchatel line near the Fort de Joux, in the defile of La Cluse (p. 15). At Jougne is the French Custom House. After passing through a tunnel we have fine views of the valley and descend rapidly to Vallorbes {Hot. de Geneve, at the station ; de Ville in the town), where is the Swiss Custom House. The train backs out of the sta- tion, and crosses the Orbe over a fine iron bridge. At JRomain- motier {Inn, Courronne), is one of the most ancient churches in Switzerland. It was built in 753. Orbe (Inn, Deux Poissons) was the Roman UrUgnenum, and afterwards the capital of Little Burgundy. Its ancient chateau was occupied as a royal residence by the kings of Burgundy. At Cossonay Junction (//-//. d'A ngleierre) the line comes in from Yverdon and NeuchateL. La lisa n m- (p. 92). For sta- tions between Lausanne and Geneva (see Route L. ). Geneva (p. 87). ROUTE X. BALE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN AND CONSTANCE. Railway to Schaffhausen, 60 m. ; Fares in frs., 9.50, 6.40, 6.15. To Constance, 91 m. Fares in frs., 14.50, 9.65, 6.25. Tourists for the FALLS OF THE RHINE should alight at NEUHACSKN, opposite the Falls. Steamers on the Rhine from Schaffhausen to Constance, see p. 18. We leave Bale from the Baden Station, passing from Switzerland into Baden and following the course of the Rhine through a fertile country. Bel Rueinfeldon (9|) is op- posite Rheinfelden (see p. 23). Sacklngen (29f m., Lowe) has an ancient Abbey with two towers, now a church. AtLanfenbnrg (Hotel Soolbad) the river is confined in a narrow rocky channel only a few yards across. The last Lord Montague and his tntor were drowned here in 1793 while attempting to descend the rapids in a boat. A strange coincidence was that his family seat of Cowdray Park was burnt on the same day, and stranger still, that a prophecy existed in the family for 300 years, that the line of the Montagues would end by water and their castle by fire at the same time. Their remains rest in the cemetery near by. Laufenburg has a most picturesque appearance, with its old watch towers, fine church, and ancient chateau of Haps- burg. Waldshnt (35 m., Hot. Skhatzli at the Station ; Relstock Route 10. BALE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 17 in the town). A branch line runs to Turgi, Baden, and Zurich (p. 25). The town is situated high above the river. At Ni'iiliauscu (58i m.) we alight for the Falls of the Rhine. Travellers from Switzerland alight at Dachsen (see p. 27. ) Hotels, SCHWEIZERHOF, mag- nificent establishment in beauti- ful grounds, very comfortable and reasonable prices. New Eng. Ch. in the Hotel grounds. Finest view of the Falls. BELLEVUE, opposite the Station, comfort- able, view of the Falls. Hotel Rheinfall in the village.) The Falls of the Rhine, the largest in Europe, are about 350 ft. wide and from 45 to 60 ft. in height. The cataract is divided by four limestone rocks, the greatest body of water fall- ing towards the left bank. At the foot of the falls is a magni- ficent basin kept in constant agitation by the rush of the waters. About 100,000 galls, of water pass over the Falls every second. In June and July they are much swollen by the melting of the snows, but in winter and early spring they often run very low, as in 1848 and 1858, when they were crossed by the natives leaping from rock to rock. It is a curious fact that the first mention in history of the Falls is found in the life of Bishop Conrad of Constance, written in 960, and it' is there- fore supposed they did not exist long before that period. Some coins, found in a cave near by, show that the spot had been visited by the Romans, and had the Falls then existed, some allu- sion to them would almost surely have been made by some of the Latin authors. The Falls are illuminated nightly in summer. The best way to visit the Falls is by taking the footpath from the Schweizerhof or the railwav sta- tiou, which skirts the right bank of the river, and crossing the rail- way bridge, ascend to the Schloss Laufen. The distance is about !, m. The Schloss Laufen is a fine old mediaeval castle, erected in 1527. It is now a hotel and restaurant, both excel- lent. (Adm. to Castle and Falls 1 fr. ) From the Castle we de- scend to the Kanzli and Fiseketz, two platforms built over the brink of the Falls, and return by a path along the river side to the ferry (50 c., ret. ticket 80 c.), by which we cross to Chateau Worth, a small restaurant, and then ascend the hill to the Schweizer- hof. A magnificent view of the Falls is had by taking a boat (pas- sage perfectly safe) to the centre rock, on which is a pavilion (1-2 pers. 3 frs., each add. pers. 1 fr.). The visit to the Falls by the Ferry and back can be made in 1 h., or return by the bridge 1^ hrs. Schaffhausen (60 m., pop. 11,800. HOT. RHEIN and restaurant at the Station. Post in the town.) Carriages, 60 c. the course, or \ h. 80 ., $ A. 1 fr. For the Falls, 2 m. To the Chateau Worth, 4 frs., or Chateau Laufen, 5 frs. An omnibus runs to the Falls from the Hot. Couronne, and several trains run daily In 7 min. Its ancient wall, turreted gateways, curious houses with then* oriel windows and carved and frescoed fagades, give Schaffhausen an exceedingly picturesque appearance. The CATHEDRAL, formerly an Abbey, erected between 1052- 1100, is a Romanesque basilica. The massive interior has been greatly spoiled by an attempted restoration. On an old bell cast in 1486 is an inscription : Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango (I call the living, I mourn the dead, I break the thunder), alluding to the old practice of ringing the church bells during a thunder storm. This bell sug- 18 Route 10.- BALE TO SCHAFFUAUSEN. gested Schiller's beautiful ' ' Song of the bell." Over the town rises the fortress of Munotk, built 1564-90. Its walls are 16 to 18 ft. thick. The tower which commands a fine view is ascended by an inclined spiral plane instead of a staircase (adm. 1 fr.) The early Gothic JOHANN'S KIKCHE, built in 1121, is one of the largest churches in Switzer- land. On the walls are some ancient frescoes. Concerts are given on the fine organ, Mon., Thur., and Saturday evenings, Ifr. In the IMTHURNEUM, a build- ing presented to the town by Herr Imthurn, a London banker, and a native of Schaffhausen, are a Theatre and Concert rooms. The TOWN LIBRARY contains a collection of the MSS. of the Swiss historian Johann von Mtiller, and a Museum of anti- quities and natural history. The large WATERWORKS on the river supply the factories in the town with 900 horse power by means of turbine wheels and iron cables. For EAILWAY to Winterthur and Zurich see Route xv. For route to Constance by steamer see below. At Tliayingcii (66 m.) the line enters Baden. Sing'ii (71 m.) (Inn Krone) is the junction of the Black Forest line for Triburg and Offenburg. Two m. to the N. W. of the Station is the fortress of Holientwiel, situated high up on an isolated rock (2244 ft.). In the 30 Years War, under the brave Wurtem- burg general Wiederhold, it suc- cessfully sustained five sieges by theBavarians. AtKaIolfzell(77 m., Inn Sdiiff) a poor town with a fine Gothic church, we reach the ZELLER or UNTER SEE, an arm of Lake Constance. Opposite Reichenau, farther on, is the Island of Reicliciiaii, 3 m. long, and connected with the shore by an embankment. In the parish church of Mittelzell, erected in 806, repose the bones of Charles the Fat, great grand- son of Charlemagne. The sacristy contains a few relics. On the island are also the ruins of the old castle of Schapfeln. Crossing the Rhine over a fine iron bridge we arrive at Constance (see below). SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE BY STEAMER. Pier above the bridge. Omni- bus from Station, 50 c. Fares, 3frs., 1.95c. Time up the river, 4 lir.8. ; down, 3 hrs. Leaving Schaffhausen we pass on the L. the ancient convents of Parodies and Catherinenthal. At Diessenhofen the river is spanned by a wooden bridge. The French army crossed here before the battle of Hohenlinden. Stein (11 m. ) is connected with its superb Burg on the Winterthur Railway, by another wooden bridge (see Route XVI.). The castle of Hohenklingen on a rocky height commands a fine view. The Rathhaus, a curious old structure, has a small museum of antiquities. The Abbey of St George is also a fine old building. Above the island of St Otkmar the river expands into the Zellcr or llnter Sec, and we pass the castles of Freudenfels, R., and Oberstaad and the Abbey of Oehningen, L., At Wangen,^i. is the castle of Marbach, now a hydropathic establishment. At 1. Cathedral, B 3. 2. Wessenburg Ha 3. St. Stephen s Kirche, B 4 . 4. Stadt Kanzli, B 4-5. 5. Rossgarten Museum, Bs- 6. Kauf haus, C 4. 7. Inscl Hotel. C 3. BOOHtf STR BODAN Route 10. BALE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 18 Berliiigcii (Inn Krone) the Unter-Zee attains its greatest width. To the right is the Chateau of Enyenslierg , built by Beauharnais, vice-king of Italy. On a wooded hill, farther on, is the Chateau of Arenaburg, once the residence of Queen Hortense and the late Emp. Napoleon III. It now belongs to the ex-Empress Eugenie. Opposite is the Island of Reichenau (see above). We now enter the narrow channel of the Rhine connecting the Unter See with Lake Con- stance. On the R. is tiottlic- ben (Hot. , Krone), with its ancient castle, built in 1250 by the bis- hops of Constance. Here John Huss and Jerome of Prague were confined by order of the Emp. Sigismundand the infamous Pope John XXIII., who was afterwards himself imprisoned in the same dungeon by the Council of Constance. CONSTANCE AND THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE. Hotels. INSEL HOTEL, formerly a large Dominican monastery, delightfully Mtuated on a small island. CONSTANZERHOF, under the same excellent management, on N. bank of the lake, amid beautiful grounds. Hotel Hecht, Badischer Hof. Carriages, \ hr., 60 pf. ; 1 hr., 2 marks. Fine Baths on the lake. THEATRE and CONCERTS. Steamers i>ly on the lake in all directions. Consult local time tables. Good restaurants on board. Constance (pop. 12,000), from the Roman Constantii, was founded before the birth of Christ. The present town and many of the buildings date from the 15th centy., when it was a free town. From 1559 to 1805 it was subject to the House of Haps- burg. Since that time it has belonged to Baden. It formerly contained 40,000 inhabitants, though at the time it was trans- ferred to Baden it had only 5000. Of late years it has begun again to regain some of its former prosperity. Its Bishopric, num- bering a long line of 87 bishops, was founded in the 7th centy., and suppressed in 1827. The Gothic Cathedral (1) was first erected on the site of a Scottish convent. It fell down in 1052, and was then partially rebuilt in romanesque style by Bishop Romauld. The remainder of the present building was erected be- tween the 13th and 16th centuries. The tower was built by Hubsch ID 1850-7. The spire commands a fine view of the lake. On the massive oak doors of the chief portal are reliefs of our Lord's Passion, carved in 1470 by Simon Balder. The nave, dating from the 13th centy., is sup- ported by sixteen columns, each of a single block of stone. A few yards from the principal entrance, a stone slab marks the place where John Huss received his sentence of burning at the stake, from the Council. The portion of the stone on which he is said to have stood is always dry, while the remainder is quite damp. The curiously carved choir stalls belong to the 15th centy. In the chapel on the E. side is a sculpture of the Holy Sepulchre. The sacristy contains the church treasure and some fine missals. In front of the high altar, under a brass tablet, lie the bones of Robt. Hallam, Bishop of Salis- bury, president of the English deputation to the Council of Constance. In the WESSENBERU HAUS (2) Route 11. CONSTANCE TO is a fine library and collection of pictures left to the town by Herr Wessenberg. The Gothic CHURCH OF ST STEPHEN (3) contains some carvings in wood and stone. In the market-place is a statue of " Victory" by Baur, commemor- ating the part taken by the men of Constance in the Franco-Ger- man War. Along the Hussen- strasse is the lodging where John Huss was arrested. A tablet with a portrait of the martyr marks the house. The Stadt Kan xl ri (4), or Town Hall, has a beautiful renaissance facade with frescoes of scenes from the history of Constance. The Rosgarten Museum (5) con- tains a fine collection of remains from the lake dwellings, a natural history collection, and collection of antiquities of Constance, among them the cart in which Huss was drawn to his execution. In the Kaiifliaus (6), a curious old building near the lake, erected in 1378, is the Council Hall in which the Great Council deposed Pope John XXIII. and elected Martin V. On the walls are modern frescoes of the history of Constance. Farther on is the large Dominican Monastery (7), erected in the 13th centy., now the Insel Hotel (see above). John Huss was a prisoner here for four months before his execution. The cloisters and chapel (used as the dining-room) are well worth seeing. A pleasant excursion from Constance (4J m., steamer three times daily ; carriage, 8 marks) is to the Island of Hainan, in the Ueberlinger See. The island is connected with the mainland by a long iron bridge. This beautiful island originally be- longed to the Abbey of Reich- enau (p. 18), and then came into possession of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. It now belongs to the Grand Duke of Baden. The fine chateau, built in 1746, has frequently been visited by the Emperor of Germany. From the ALLMAXSSHOHE, \ hr., on the Mainau road, is a fine view of the town and lake. Pen- sion and restaurant. To the "JAKOB," \ hr., fine view. Pension and restaurant in beautiful pine woods. A pretty road to the W. leads past Kreuzlingen to the Rund- bei-g or Tabor; fine view (f hr.). KOUTE XL CONSTANCE TO FEIEDEICHSHAVEN, EOE- SCHACH, AND BEEGENZ. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. Steamers, several times daily, see local time tables at the hotels. Fair restaurants on board the steamers. Travellers liable to sea sickness should not venture on the lake in blowy weather. Railway to Rorschach, 21 m., in 1J-2 hrs. Fares, 4.20 c., 3 frs. ; 2.15 c. From Rorschach to Bregent by St Ifargarethen in 1 hr., see page 22. The Lake of Constance, fed by the waters of the Rhine, is 40 m. long by 1\ wide. The scenery on its banks is pleasing and peaceful, but tame in corn- parison with the other Swiss lakes. The south-western shore is Swiss territory, the northern German, Route V2. RORSCHACH TO COIRE. and the south-eastern end Aus- trian. Leaving Constance the steamer crosses to Friedrichshaven in 1^ hrs. , or via Meersburg in 2 hrs. Fried richshaven (Konig Von Wurtembury, Krone) is the ter- minus of the Stuttgart railway. The landing place is a mile from the railway station, but the trains run down to the quay to meet the steamers. The ROYAL CASTLE of the king of Wfirtem- burg (formerly the ancient con- vent of Shofen) contains a collec- tion of pictures, and is surrounded by charming gardens. In the absence of the royal family the castle and gardens are shown to visitors. The KURSAAL is plea- santly situated on the lake. In the old Bellevue Hotel are the historical collections of the Boden- see- Verein. The steamer now crosses the lake again to lEomaiislioni (Hot. Bodan, Rest, at the Railway), the station for the line to Zurich (see Route xvm. ). Rorscltach (SEEHOF on the lake, Anker, Ilirsch, Griiner JBaum on the lake.) A curious and picturesque old town. On the heights above is the ancient ABBEY OP MARIENBUHG (now a school), built in 1513. The Gothic cloisters and vaulted refectory are worth a visit. Fine view from the Terrace. Higher up is the Castle of St Anna, fine view. The walk may be ex- tended to the summit of the hill (the Rossbuhl, 1J hrs. from Rorschach), which commands a panorama of the whole of the lake. For railway to St Gall and Zurich see Route XIX. The steamer now crosses to I iml.ui (BAYRISCHER HOP, Hotel Reutmann, on the lake), the terminus for the railway to Munich and Augsburg. \ The town lies on an island in the lake, connected with the mainland by a long wooden bridge and a railway embank- ment. Near the bridge are the ruins of an ancient tower, supposed to'have been built by the Romans. On the quay is a monument to Maximilian II. of Bavaria. There are pleasant walks in the Linden Hof. gardens, commanding beauti- ful views of the lake and moun- tains. From Lindau the steamer pro- ceeds to Brcgenz (OESTERREICH HOP, Hot. Montford, Hotel Adler). The upper portion of the town is built on the site of a Roman camp. The Schlossberg (1945 ft. , ^ hr. ) commands a fine view of the lake and the Alps of Appenzell and Glarus. The Pfander (3465 ft., path 1 hrs. , carriage road 2 hrs. ) commands a still more extensive panorama. There is a good HOTEL on the summit. EOUTE XII EOESCHACH TO COIRE. Railway, 57 m., in 3-3J hrs. Fares 9.75 c., 6.85 c., 4.90 c. Leaving Rorschach the line skirts the lake, passing on the R. the chateau of Wartegy belong- ing to the ex-Duchess of Parma, the ruins of the fortress of Wartensee, and the chateau of Weinburff, the residence of Prince Hohenzollern - Sigmarinen, and reaches the river Rhine at Itlu-i- iieok (6 m., Hecht). Diligence 22 Route IZ.RORSCHACH TO HEIDEN. to Heiden, seo p. 22. On the heights above is the Kurhaus WalzenJiausen. At St M argarethen (9 m. ) a branch line runs to Bregenz, see page 21. We now ascend the fertile valley of the Rhine to A I tsliidtru (16 m., pop. 7900, Drei Konige). To the R. we catch a glimpse oftheSentis (8215 ft.), and be- fore us we see the peaks of Sceseplana (9718 ft.) and Falknis (8420ft. ). Oberried(ltym. ), on the R. are the ruins of the castle of Blatten. SENNWALD (27 m.). In the church are the remains of one of the Barons of Hohen Sax, the former owners of the valley, who was murdered by his nephew in the 16th cent. The body, dried like a mummy, is shown in a coffin with a glass lid. This crime was supposed to have called down on the family the curse of the Almighty. The whole of their immense possessions were sold a few years later to the canton of Zurich, and the race soon after became extinct. Bnclis (31 m. , Inn at the Station, Sonne in the town) is the junction for the new line to Innsbruck by the Arlberg, and also the line from Bregentz. Above the vil- lage is the Casth of Werdenberg. Above Seneln (Inn Traube) is the ruined castle of Wartau. From TRUBBACH (39 m. ) the pass of Luziensteig leads to Ragatz (see page 34). Sargans (42 m.). For re- mainder of route, see p. 32. KOUTE XIII. RORSCHACH TO HEIDEN, APPENZELL, AND WEISSBAD. Railway, 3j m. to Heiden, on the rack and pinion system, in | hr. Fare. 3 frs.. 1.50 c. Descent, 2 frs., 1 fr. Best views on the left. Heiden (2465 ft., pop. 3400 FREIHOF, SCHWEIZERHOF, Son- nenhugel, Liiice, Krone), is a delightfully situated summer resort, and much frequented by Swiss and Germans for the whey cure. There is a good Kursaal, with reading, conversation, con- cert, and card rooms ; Trinkhalle, &c. Concerts daily in the Musik Pavilion. From the Kurgarten a few steps lead to a plateau commanding a charming pano- rama of Lake Constance and the surrounding country. There is also a fine view from the Church Tower, in which there is a tele- scope. There are numerous de- lightful short excursions in every direction from the village, which are fully described in a local guide by H. Szadrowzky, price Jfc From Heiden, in 2| hrs. , we walk over the Kaien, 3668 ft., having a fine view of Lake Con- stance, to Trogcn (Krone, Hirsch), the capital of the canton Appen- zell-auser-Roden. From Trogen a path leads in 2 hrs. over the Gabris(4101 ft.) to ais (HOT. KRONE, HOT. OCHS, Hot. Hirsch), an exceedingly pretty village, and a much frequented whey cure resort. Gais can also be reached by carriage road from Torgen (5 m. ). A diligence runs daily to ST GALLEN in 1-hr. (p. 29), and to AltsUidten in 1J hr. (see above). From Gais a carriage road 3 m. leads through pasture land to Route U.BALE TO ZURICH VIA BRUGG. \j.|>< ;i/< II (Hot. HECHT), another whey cure resort, and the capital of the Canton Appen- zell - Intere -Rhoden. Two miles from Appenzell is Weissbad (KuRHAUsWEissBAD), also a health resort, and a de- lightful centre for excursions. The HERMITAGE OF WILD- KIRCHLI (4918 ft.), commanding a lovely view, is reached in If hrs. Guide, 4 frs., unnecessary. The chapel, which was founded in 1656, and dedicated to St Michael, is situated in a grotto. From the chapel a passage leads through the rock to the EBENALP, from which we have an entirely different view. The summit of the Alp, 5250 ft., is reached in 25 min. Small Inn. The Sciitis (8215 ft.), the highest peak in the canton, can be ascended in 6 hrs. Guide de- sirable, 10 frs. Very extensive and beautiful panorama from the summit. A diligence runs three times daily from APPENZELL to ST GALLEN (see p. 29) in 3^ hrs. ROUTE XIV. BALE TO ZURICH VIA BRUGG. Railway from Central Station in 2J to 3 hrs. Fares 9.40, 6.60, 4.75 c. Best views on the left. The line follows Route I. as as far as Pratteln (5 m.), and then crosses the Ergloz to Kaiser Augst, the Roman Augusta Rau- racorum (p. 4). Khefiifcldcii (10 m., HOT. DBS SALIXES ; HOT. DIETSCHY. On the Baden side of the river, HOTEL BELLEVUE), formerly an outpost of the Holy Empire, and strongly fortified with walls and gates. A curious covered bridge crosses the Rhine, which here dashes furiously over the rocks. Near the town are large salt works. At Steiii. (18. \ m ) a covered bridge crosses the river to Sackin- gen (see p. 16). Beyond Efflngen (28^ m.) the line passes under the Botzberg through a tunnel, and descends the valley of the Aare to Brngg (36 m., Hot. : Rossh, Rot/tes Haus), near the conflux of the Aare, Reuss, and Limmat, is a picturesque old town, once be- longing to Rudolph of Hapsburg. The Schwartze Thurm is an old Roman tower, restored in the 15th centy. Brugg was the birthplace of Zimmerman, author of the celebrated work on Soli- tude. He was physician to Frederick the Great. One m.E. of Brugg is the ancient Abbey of Koiitgsfcldcii, built in 1310 by Elizabeth, Empress of Austria, and Agnes, Queen of Hungary (who took the veil, and passed fifty years of her life here), on the spot where their husband and father, Albert of Austria, was assassinated by his nephew John of Swabia and three conspirators. The murder took place in sight of the Im- perial Castle, only a fragment of which now remains (p. 29). Though only one of the mur- derers, Wart, suffered for his crime, a terrible vengeance over- took their unfortunate families and friends. No less than 1000 innocent victims were put to death, and the abbey was en- 24 RonfeU.BALE TO ZURICH VIA BRUOG. dowed with their confiscated property. Jt was suppressed in 1528. Only a portion of the original building remains, which is now used as an hospital and lunatic asylum. The dwelling of Queen Agnes contains a small collection of antiquities. In the windows of the chapel is some tine stained glass, and on the walls are faded portraits of the Austrian knights who fell at Sempach (p. 41). The high altar stands over tb spot of the assassination. We now cross the Reuss near- its junction with the Aare. On the promontory between the two rivers once stood the Roman town VINDONISSA, their most im- portant settlement in Helvetia. The only remains of the town are traces of an amphitheatre. Turgi (38 m.) is the junction of the line from Waldshut (see Route xvii.). Baden (42 m., GRAND HOTEL, a large -establishment with baths, pleasantly situated on the river ; HOTEL BAR, new and comfortable ; HOTEL VESE- NAHOF, Schiceizerhof, Hot. Schiff, at the baths ; in the town, Hot. Wage) is celebrated for its hot mineral springs (116-122 Fahr. ), which are very efficacious for cases of gout, rheumatism, and cutaneous diseases. The baths were well known to the Romans, and were visited by the Em- perors Titus and Vespasian. In the middle ages it was also one of the most crowded health re- sorts in Europe. The principal bath establishment is the largo Grand Hotel (see above) with 100 baths. On the right bank of the river are the Ennet-Baden, frequented by middle class Swiss and Germans. There is also a fine establishment where the sick poor of all nations are received for a small weekly sum, which includes board, baths, and excellent medi- cal advice. In the Bahnhof- strasse is a fine KURSAAL, sur- rounded by pleasant gardens, in which are several Roman remains, Restaurant, good music daily. The ancient ruined Castle of STEIN, which overlooks the town and commands a fine view, was formerly a residence of the Haps- burg family. In it the disastrous campaign against the Swiss, which ended in the battles of Mor- garten (p. 39) and Sempach (p. 41) was planned. It was taken and burnt by the Swiss in 1415. There are many delight- ful excursions to be made in the neighbourhood. At Wettliigm (43 m.), on the river side, are the large build- ings of an ancient Cistercian Abbey, now a seminary. In the church,built!227, is a sarcophagus in which the murdered remains of the Emp. Albert (see above) reposed for fourteen months pre- vious to their removal to Spires. Near DIctikoii (49 m.) the French army under Massena crossed the Limmat, 24th Sept. 1799, before the battle of Zurich. As we approach Zurich we see on the R. the long ridge of the Uetliberg, with the large hotel on its summit. ZURICH. Railway Stations. Central Station (Restaurant), f m. from the lake. Enge Station, on the W. bank of the lake, for railway along the lake shore. Selnau Station, for rail up the Uetliberg. Omnibuses t the hotels from Central Station. Tramways, from Central Station to Enge Station, and along the Limmatquai and Sonnenquai to the Riesbach and Aitssersihl, See plan. 1. Post Officr, B 3. 2. Bourse, A 4. 3. Hotel Baur au Lac, A 4. Stadtgarten, A 4. 5. Stadthausj A 4. 6. Bauschatizli, A 4. 7. Kaufhaus, B 4. 8. Frau Munster, B 4. 9. St. Peter's Kirche. 84. 10. Rathhaus, C 4. n. Museum, C 4. 12. Wasserkirche, B 4. 13. Grossmunster, B 4-5. 14. TonhaDe, A 5. 15. H6he Promenade, B6. 16. Cantonal Schools.C 6. 17. Cantonal Hospital, D- 6. 18. Polytechnic, D 19. Kuuster Gutll, O 5. so. Promenade Platz, E-F 3. ai. Arsenal, D i. ay. Gewerbe Museum, 62. 23. Hotel Bellevue, A 4. 24. Hotel National, D 3. 24. Schweizerhof, C 4. 25. Hotel Bauer, B 4. Route 14. BALE TO ZURICH VIA BRUGG. 25 Carriages, i hr., 1-2 pers., 80 c , 3-4 pers., 1.20 c. ; hr., 1.50 c. and 2.20 c. ; 1 hr., 2.50 c. and 3.60 c. Box, 20 c. 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., double fares. Porters (Red caps). Errand in the town, 30 c.; in the suburbs, 40 c.; with 50 Ibs. of baggage, 20 c. extra. Hotels. Hotel BAUR AU LAC (not to be confounded with (he Hotel Bauer), very fine Hotel, beautifully situated on the lake, with pleasant gardens. BELLEVUK, near the new bridge, also on the lake, large and moderately com- fortable. HOTEL BAUR, on the Bahnhof Strasse, first class, comfortable. NATIONAL, first class, comfortable. VICTORIA, comfortable; these two are both opposite the station. SCHWERT, near the tower bridge. Good second class. Zuricherhof, Starch, St Gotthard, Schweizerhof, Limmathof, Hecht. GOOD PENSIONS, Cygne, at Seefeld, Neptun, Weisses Kretttz. At Hottingen, Pension d'Angleterre. Also on the Uetliberg (see below). On the Zurichberg, Pension Beau Sejour, comfortable, fine view. Restaurants and Cafes. Cafe National, Cafe Victoria, opposite the station. Restaurant and Cafe' Meise, near the Munster Brucke. Tonhalle, on the lake. Cake and ices at Spriinglis, cor. Bahnhof Strasse, and Parade-Platz, also excellent chocolate. Amusements. Theatre. Circus. Races several times a year. Regatta on the lake in autumn. Concerts every evening, 60 c., at the Tonhalle, on the lake (see below). Zur Platte, Summer Theatre, Flora Theatre, and winter garden. Free Concerts, Sundays, at 11 a.m., hi the Stadtgarten. Organ Concerts in the Grossmunster and Peterskirche. Baths. Warm and vapour baths at Stackers in the Muhlgarten. Swimming baths on the lake near the Stadtgarten. Steamers. See Route xx. Rowing Boats. 1-2 pers., 50 c. per hr. ; each add. pers., 20 c. Boatmen, 60 c. per hr. Post and Telegraph Office in the Bahnhof Strasse. Eng. Ch. Ser. in the Church of St Anne. 7,ii rich (pop. 25,000), the Bahnhoff Strasse, we pass on capital of the canton and the the R. the POST OFFICE (1), ancient Roman TVriau^isbeauti- and near the lake the fine fully situated at the north end new BOURSE (2). To the R. of Lake Zurich. Through its of the Bourse is the Hotel Baur centre runs the Limmat, crossed au Lac (3), and to the L., bor- by seven bridges, dividing the dering on the lake, the STADT- to wn into the GrosseStadt,W., and GARTEN (4). Turning up the KleineStadt, E. The Grosse Stadt Stadthaus quai (5), we see the is again divided from the suburbs BAUSCHANZLI (6), a water-bastion by the SiAl. Zurich is the chief constructed in 1660. It is now manufacturing town in Switzer- shaded with trees, and affords a land, and next to Lyons the most pleasant resting place. Farther important centre of silk manu- on is the old KAUFHAUS (7) or facture in Europe. It has a public warehouse, with its curi- uuiversity and other important ous overhanging roof, and the educational establishments. Fine FRAU MUNSTER (8), built in the views of the town are had from the llolit- Promenade and the Terrace of the Polytechiiicum (see below). In 1799 the French under Massena routed the Russians under Korsakoff , and drove them on physiognomy, was pastor of back to the Rhine with a loss of this church for twenty-three 13,000 men. years. He was shot in front of Starting from the Central his church after the battle of Station and passing down the Zurich by a French soldier to 13th century. Crossing the Miinster Platz we come to the ST PETER'S KIRCHE (9), with its large electric clock. The dials are 29 ft. in diameter. Lavater, the author of the celebrated work 26 Route 14. BALE TO ZURICH VIA BRVGG. whom he had just given refresh- ment. A little farther rises the LINDENHOF, which was the site of the ancient Roman Camp of Turicum. The imperial palace of the governors of Zurich also stood here. Crossing the Markt Briicke we pass on the right the RATHHAUS (10), built in 1699. In front is the Reading-room Museum (11). Strangers ad- mitted for one month on presen- tation by a member. Now pass- ing along the Rathhaus quai we come to the Munster Brucke, at the end of which is the old Wasserklrche (12), built in the 15th centy. In it is the TOWN LIBRARY, containing autograph letters of Lady Jane Grey, Henry IV. of France, Frederick the Great, and the reformer Zwingli, and a Museum of Antiquities, in which are the first book printed in Switzerland at Beromiinster (1480), Zwingli's Bible with his MSS. marginal notes, and a fine relief of portion of Switzerland. The collection of corns number 10,000. Between the two bridges is the SWAN COLONY. Above us is the Grossmunstcr (13), a plain Romanesque build- ing of the ll-12th centuries, erected on the site of a convent founded in 697. The hill on which it is built is supposed to be a moraine brought down by the glacier, which, in the ice period, filled the valley and lake. At the foot of the hill, Felix and his wife Reyula, with their friend JExuperantius, suffered martyr- dom by order of the Roman Prefect Deems in the 4th centy. They were afterwards canon- ized as patron saints of the town. Their figures appear in the arms of Zurich. On the side of the W. Tower is a large grotesque sitting statue of Charle- magne. In the interior is a picture of the Procession to the Cross, and several fine stained glass windows. In this church / preached for twelve years. Now passing along the Sonnen Quai, we see fronting us on the lake the large Toiiliallc (14). It was formerly a grain store, but in 1867, on the occasion of the great musical festival at Zurich, it was adapted for a music hall. The large concert room, with a fine organ, holds 2000 people. Excellent concerts are given nightly, and occasionally matinees on Sunday. Attached to the Hall are a winter garden, covered pavilion, and shaded walks and Turning up the Rami Strasse we now ascend to the Hohe Promenade (15), which com- mands a charming view of the lake. On it is a monument to Nageli, the Swiss composer. To the L. is the old cemetery with many fine monuments. Continu- ing along the Rami Strasse and passing on the L. the handsome CANTONAL SCHOOLS (16), and to the R. the large CANTONAL HOSPITAL (17), we come to the Polytechnic (18), erected 1861-4. It contains the U, of Zurich and the Federal School. The Terrace commands a fine view over the town and lake. The Museum, which is in point of size the largest in Switzerland, contains collections of archeology, minerals, and fossil remains, en- fineering and architecture, natw-'il istory, and a fine collection of engravings. Beyond the Poly- technic are the buildings of the Pfrundhaus and the Burger-asyl, both retreats for the aged poor of the town. To the left up the Kunstler Strasse is the KUNSTER- GUTLI (19), in which is the picture gallery of the Artists' Union of Zurich, containing several fine pictures by Swiss painters. We now return to the station over the Bahnhof Briicke. Behind the station is the PRO- Routed. SCHAFFHAUSEN TO WINTERTHUR.' ' 27 MENADE PLATZ (20), with shady walks on the banks of the Lim- mat and Sihl. In the garden is a monument to the poet Gessner. Near the promenade are the Aquarium and Swiss Geological M>iaeinn. On the opposite bank of the Sihl are the large Barracks (see plan), and the Arsenal (21), in which is a fine COLLECTION OF ARMS, Toll's cross-bow, and Zwingli's sword, armour, and battle-axe. The GEWERBE MUSEUM (22) (see plan) contains a permanent in- dustrial museum, with a library and reading - room. In the BOTANIC GARDEN (23) (see plan) is the Katz, the remains of an ancient tower, from which is a fine view of the lake. Excursions. The pleasantest excursion from Zurich is to the summit of the Uetliberg (2864 ft. ), the long range of hills to the west of the town. Railway in i hr. Fares up, 2 frs. ; down, 1^ frs. ; return ticket, 3 frs. On Sundays and holidays, return, 1.50 c., or including dinner at the Uto-Kulm restaurant, 3.50 c. Signs on the walls indicate the way to the station from the Bahnhof Strasse. The Uetliberg is easy of ascent on foot. The road up the hill commands lovely views almost the whole way, and to fair walkers this is much the most easy way of ascent. The excursion to the Uetliberg should on no account be missed. On the summit is the fine HOT. AND PENSION UETLIBERG, comfortable, and moderate prices. A short distance from the hotel is the large restaurant UTO- KULM. On the south side is the Hot and Pens. UTO-STAFFEL, comfortable and reasonable. The view, which should be seen from the Uto-Kulm, is exceed- ingly extensive and beautiful. It embraces a magnificent pano- rama of the Lakes of Zurich and the valley of the Limmat. To the S. we see the Rigi and Mt. Pilatus, and beyond, the whole range of the Appenzell and Bernese Alps. On the W. we see the range of the Jura, and in clear weather a few of the peaks of the Vosges mountains. To the N. are the fertile plains of northern Switzerland, bounded by the dark line of the Black Forest. In front of the restau- rant is a plan showing direction of the different peaks. There are charming walks in all directions from Zurich, not- ably to the Sonnenberg, Zurichberg, Trichtenhauser Mill, the WaUL, and the Sihlwald. ROUTE XV. SCHAFFHAUSEN TO WINTERTHUR AND ZURICH. Railway, 35 m., 2 h. Fares, 6 frs., 4.20 c., 3 frs. Best views on the right. Leaving Schaffhausen we cross must go on to Schaffhausen (p. the Rhine to Dachsen (3 m., Hot. 17) if they have luggage, as there In the to the Witzig at the station), season omnibuses run Falls of the Rhine (see page 17). Tourists for the Schweizerhof coming in the contrary direction is no means of transit across the Rhine. Winterthur (19 m.) to Zurich (35 m. ), see Route xvi. 28 Route ll.OLTEX TO WALDSHUT. ROUTE XVI. CONSTANCE TO WINTERTHUR AND ZURICH. Railway, 83 m., 3 hrs. Fares, 8.95 c., 6 frs., 4.40 c. Best views on the right. The route from Constance as far as Bnrg and Stein (17^ m. ), passing along the shores of the Unter See, is described on p. 18. At Etzweilen, 19 m., the line turns south and passes through a rather uninteresting district to in i crili in- (38^ m., pop. 1400. HOT. GOLDNER LOWE, Krone. Restaurant at the Sta- tion), a wealthy commercial town, but containing little to interest the tourist. [From Winterthur a branch line nms through the Toss-Thai to Ruti, 29 m., 2-3 hrs. Sennhof, 5 m., 5 hr. walk to the old Chateau of Kyburg, which came into possession of Rudolph of Haps- burg in 1264, on his succeeding to the ancient line of the Counts of Kyberg. Though the Hapsburg family only held the property about 100 years, the Emperors of Austria still bear the title of Counts of Kyberg. The castle contains a fine picture gallery, a torture chamber, a cliapel with fres- coed walls, and is handsomely fur- nished in mediaeval style. It is now a private residence, but is shown to visitors. From Wald, 25 m., the BachteJ (see page 31) can be ascended in 1 hrs. At Riiti we join the line from Zurich to Rapperswyl (see Route xx.).] Leaving Wintherthur we follow the valley of the Toss, passing on the L. the castle of Kybery (see above). Crossing the Toss we enter the valley of the Glatt. At Effretikon Junction a branch line runs to Wetzikon on the Zurich and Rapperswyl line (see page 31). Zurich, 83 m. (see page 25). ROUTE XVII. OLTEN TO WALDSHUT BY AARAU AND BRUGG. Railway, 32J m. 2 hrs. Fares, 5.50 c., 4 frs., 3.85 c. For route from Bale to OHen, Route I. Leaving Olten the line runs along the picturesque valley of the Aare to A a ran (8J m. pop. 6000. Hot. Wilde)- Mann, Storch), a manufacturing town and the capital of the Canton Aargau. The Rathhaus contains the Cantonal library of 90,000 vols., and some fine stained glass of the 16th centy. from the windows of the Abbey of Muri (see below). [From Aaran a line runs to Roth- Tcrevz on the St Gotthard line, branch- ing off at Rapperswyl June., 29j m. in 1J to 2 hrs. (4.90 c., 3.45 c., 2.45 c.) The only place of interest on the line is Muri (18 m., HOT., LOWE, Acller), with mineral baths. The ancient Abbey of Muri is now a cantonal school. lj hr. above Muri is the PENSION SCHLOSS HERBEN, finely situ- ated on a hill 2600 ft. high, and com- manding an extensive view. Rotll- kreuz, see page 50.] /, ., 10. ZURICH TO ST G ALLEN. Wlldogg (15 111.) is the station for the hydropathic establishment of Bresteriberg, on the Lake of Kawyl (7 m.) Schiiiznach (17 m.) for the ISntlts ol'Srliin/.nacli (^ m.,FlNEHOTEL AND KURHAUS),a much frequented watering place. The springs are sulphurous (90), and efficacious for rheu- matism, gout, and skin diseases. On the summit of the Wulpens- liurg (1700 ft., \ hr., fine view) are the ruins of the Castle of Hapsbiirg, the cradle of the house of Austria. The castle was erected in 1020. Nothing now remains but a portion of one of the towers (p. 23. ) Itrugg (19jj m., see page 23). Leaving Bragg the line crosses the Reuss to Tm-gi (see page 24), then the Limmat, and following the course of the Aare, crosses the Rhine over an iron bridge to Waldsliut (see page 16). ROUTE XVIII. ZURICH TO ROMANSHORN, FRIEDRICHS- HAVEN, AND LINDAU. Railway, 51 m., in 2 to 3 hrs. ; Fares 8.65 c., 6, 5, 4.35 frs. Steamer from Romanshom to Friedrichshaven, in connection with the trains, in 1 hr., or to Lindau in li hr. For route as far as Winter tlmr (16 m. ), see p. 28. Fraiienfcld (26 m., Falke, Rest, at the station), the capital of the Thurgau, with large cotton factories. The ancient Chateau was built by one of the Counts of Kyberg (p. 28) in the llth cent. Wclufelden (37 m. ), amid fine vineyards. Chateau on the L. Itomaushoru, Friedrlclis- li;i vcii, and Lindau, see Route XL ROUTE XIX. ZURICH TO ST GALLEN, RORSCHACH, AND LINDAU. Railway to St Oallen,52 m., in 3 hrs.: Fares 8.80 r c., 6.20 c.,4.40c. Horschach, 62 m., in 3| hrs. ; Fares 10.20 c., 7.20 c., 5.10 c. Steamboat from Rorschach to Lindau in 1J hrs. To For route as far as Winter- thnr(16m.), seep. 28. Wyl (HOT. BAHNHOF). Charm- ing view from the station. Branch line to Ebnat. Leaving Wyl the line crosses the Thur and the valleys of the Glatt and Sitter. St Gallen, or St Gall (pop. 21,500, HOT. HECHT, Hot. Stieger, Hot. Hirsch), is the capital of the canton, an Episcopal See, and a large centre of Swiss muslin and cotton manufactories. It occu- pies an elevated position (2165 30 Route 20. ZURICH TO COIRE. ft.) in the valley of the Steinach. The ancient walls and moat are now converted into gardens. The Benedictine Abbey was founded in the be- ginning of the 7th cent, by St Galliis, an Irish monk, who left his monastery in Belfast Lough with St Columbanus and other monks, as a missionary on the Continent. Being seized with illness, his companions deserted him in the woods. On his re- covery he built a small cell, and set himself to teach the surround- ing tribes Christianity and agriculture, in which he suc- ceeded. The present abbey was built on the site of his tomb fifty years after his death, and formed the nucleus of the present town. Between the 8th and 1 Oth centuries the abbey was one of the greatest seats of learning in Switzerland, and we owe many of our most valuable manuscripts of the classics to the labour of its monks. After the 10th cent, the abbey became very wealthy and power- ful, and assumed the temporal power over the surrounding country, which it asserted by force of arms, the monks them- selves fighting in the ranks. The rule of the abbots at last became so oppressive, that in the 15th cent, the Canton of Appenzell rose in revolt and threw off their yoke, and in the Reformation the town itself became free. During the French Revolution the abbey was finally suppressed, and its revenues sequestrated. The last abbot died in 1829 in the convent of Muri (p. 28). The interesting LIBRARY con- tains many fine manuscripts and missals. Open Mon. , Wed. , Sat. , 9-12 and 2-4. The ABBEY CHURCH (since 1846 the Cathedral), rebuilt in 1755, in a roccoco Italian style, has some fine frescoes on the ceiling, and carved choir stalls. In the sacristy are some church treasures and relics. The Totoi 1. containing several valuable MSS. , is in the Municipal School. Near it is a Museum, containing a col- lection of Natural History and a gallery of paintings. From St Gallen we descend to Rorschach, having views on the L. of the Lake of Constance. There are two stations at Rorschach, the first in the town, and the second J m. further on at the quay. Rorschach and Limlau, see Route XL ROUTE XX. ZUEICH TO COIEE. (< ) Steamer to Richtertwyl, in 2 hrs., twice daily, and thence railway by route 6. to Coire, in 3J hrs; Fares 8.85 c., 6.10 c., 4.45 c. ; or to Rappersurvl, in 2J hrs., six times daily; Fares 2.50 c., 1.80 c. Thence rail (route c.) to Coire, 53 m., in 3f-4 hrs. ; Fares 7.80 c.. 6.5 c., 5.35 c. Smaller steamers also cross the lake at different points. This is the most interesting route in fine weather. (6.) Railway by Wadenswyl, in 4-4f hrs.; Fares 5.85 c., 4.10 c., 2.95 c. (c.) Railway by Rapperswyl, Utznach, and Sargans, 80 m., in 5-5f hrs.; Fares 12.30 c., 8.65 c,, 6.20 c. (a.) The Lake of Zttrich is 15 m. long and 2J m. broad. Its scenery is attractive more for its peaceful beauty and its rich and fertile shores than its grandeur. Its gently sloping banks, covered with meadows, vineyards, and orchards, do not rise to a Route W.ZURICS TO COIRE. height of over 3000 ft., but are covered with charming villages, chalets, farms, and quiet retreats. The principal villages on the S. W. Bank are RUSHLIKON, above which is the small Niederbad with chalybeate springs. THALWYL (Adler, 1 m. from the lake), with a fine church, commanding a lovely view of the lake. At Olerieden, in the parsonage, La- vater (p. 25) wrote part of his celebrated work on physiognomy. Horgen (Scku-an, Lowe), is the starting point of the diligence for Zug (see p. 50). Wartcnswyl (Enael), the largest village on the lake, is the starting point for Einsedeln (see p. 37). RH'h- terswyl (Drei Konige, Post), with large cotton factories. We here join the railway route (I) to Coire (see below). On the N. E. Bank are Kuss- nuc/tt (Sonne), with a large college for teachers. Erlenach (2 m.), beyond which is a huge boulder stone left by the glaciers. Stafa (Sonne) is the largest village on the N. bank. Rapperswyl (Hots. G'yne and du Lac, on the lake), is a picturesque old walled town, with an ancient Chateau restored in 1871. It contains the Polish National Museum, founded by Count Plater. On the Terrace is a monument in memory of the Polish insurrection. The Terrace and the Tower both command fine views of the lake. In the Parish Church are some valuable treasures. At Rapperswyl, the lake is crossed by the SEEDAM, a viaduct, f m. in length. We here join the railway route (c) to Coire. (6.) RAILWAY ROUTE, S. E. BANK. For route as far as Riclitcrs- wyl (17 J m. ) see above. At Pfiiffikon (21 m.), a branch line crosses the lake to Rappers wyl. At lai-hrii (25 m. , Hot. Liar) the line leaves the lake. [From Lachen a route runs to GLARUS (p. 35) through the Waggi- thal. Carriage road (omnibus daily in 2 hrs.) to the Kwhaus Waggithal. From the Kurhaus over the Ober Alp (5060 ft. and Schwein-Alp (5160 ft.), passes to the Kurhaus Richisau, takes 4 hrs. Good bridle path. Guide un- necessary. At Richisau, we join the route from Schwyz (see p. 40), and reach Glarus (p. 35) in 4 hrs.] Crossing a marshy plain to Zicgclforucke (36 m.), we have views on the R. of the Glarus Mts. , and on the L. of the Untere and Obere Buchberg (2020 ft. ), and the Speer (6420 ft.). At Ziegel- bmcke we join the line from Rapperswyl (see below). (c.) RAILWAY BY RAPPERSWYL AND UTZNACH. Leaving Zurich, we travel along the Winterthur route for 6 m., and branch off at Wallisen, the line following the course of the Olatt through a flat and un- interesting country to USTER (14 m. ), with a fine church and pic- turesque old castle, and remark- able for the relics of the lake dwellings found in the neighbour- ing Pfaffikon See, a glimpse of which we catch 2 m. farther on. From Wetzikon (18 m. ) a branch line runs N. to Eff retikon (p. 28). At Ruti Junction (22^ m.) a branch line runs through the Tosthal to Winterthur (p. 28). Above Ruti is the BACHTEL (3760 ft., Inn), commanding a fine view ; reached by rail to Hinwell (the station before reach- ing Ruti) in J hr. Thence 1 hr. walk, or carnage to the summit, 7frs. At Rapperswyl (27 m., see above), the rail approaches the lake, the train going on to the quay to take up steamboat passengers. At Scliiuerlkon (34 m.) we leave the lake and cross the broad plain drained by the LlNTH CANAL. This canal, constructed at a cost of 60,000, has con- 32 Route 20. ZURICH TO CO I RE. verted the district drained by the Linth, which had been laid waste by frequent devastating floods, into a fertile and healthy valley. On the R. , on the Untere Buch- berg, stands the ancient castle of Grynau. Itziiach (36 m., Ochs), a dili- gence runs four times daily to Wattyl in the Toggenburg. Ziegelbrucke (42^ m., Hot. Berger), is the junction of the line from Zurich and Richters- wyL Xafels Mollis (44 m.) is the junction of the line for Glarus and Linthal (see p. 35). At Wesen (45| m., Hot. Speer at the station, Sckwert on the lake) we reach the Walensee, 9 m. long and 1J broad. This lake is hemmed in on its N. bank by frowning precipices 2000 to 3000 ft. in almost perpendicular height, giving its scenery a grandeur little inferior to that of LakeLucerne. Over its eastern end rise the seven rugged and barren peaks of the Churfirsten. From Wesen the ascent' of the SPEEB (6417 ft.) can be made in 4 hrs. Guide unnecessary. Finger-posts show the path. The summit commands a magnificent view of the peaks of Glamisch, 9583 ft., Todi, 11,890 ft, and the Glarus Aim. Beyond Wesen we cross the Linth Canal and then the Escher Canal, and travel along the S. shore of the lake, passing through numerous tunnels and cuttings. Murg (51 m., Rossli, Schijjli, rustic Inns), at the mouth of the Murgthal, a romantic valley, 10 m. in length. At Walenstadt (Hot. Chur- firsten, Inn) we leave the lake, and ascend the valley of the Seez to Mels (64 m.), and reach the valley of the Rhine at Sargans (65 m. , Hot. Thoma, and Rest, at the station), the junction of the line from Con- stance and Rorschach (see p. 22). RAGATZ(68m.). Hotels. QUELLENHOF and HO- TEL RAGATZ, opposite the Kursaal, two large and magnificent establish- ments. HOTEL TAMINA SCHWEI/KI;- HOF, both first-class and comfortable. Krone, Bayrischer Jfof, Pension Lattman. Omnibus from the station, 75 c. Trunk, 25 c. Visitors' Tax, 3 frs. per week each person. Eng. Ch. Ser. in the Eng. chapel. Ragatz (1707 ft.), one of the most delightful stopping-places in Europe, is situated in the valley of the rapid Tamina. It is the most frequented of all the Swiss watering-places, the visi- tors amounting to over 60,000 annnally. The warm springs, 97, which are perfectly clear and tasteless, are impregnated with magnesia, carbonate of lime, and chloride of sodium in minute quantities, and are efficacious in cases of paralysis, neuralgia, and nervous and cutaneous diseases. The waters are brought through wooden pipes, 2J m. long, from Pfaffers (see below). In the season the Hotels Quellenhof and Ragatz (formerly the residence of the abotts of Pfaffers), are crowded with visitors. In the KURGABTEN, opposite the hotels, a band plays thrice daily. The Bath Houses, Trinkehallc, and Kursaal front on the gar- den. In the Kursaal are reading, conversation, and billiard rooms, concert hall, ball room, and an excellent restaurant. On the L. bank of the river is the Jfeubatl, or new baths, in connection with which is a large swimming bath (84<>). Adm., morning, 2 frs. ; afternoon, 1 fr. Ladies' hours from 9.30 to 11.30 A.M., and 4 to 6 P.M. Single baths, 2 frs. and 2.50 c. Two other bath houses the Muklenbad and Helenabad, Route 20. ZURICH TO COIRE. 33 are on the same side of the river. Half an hour's walk, are the ruins of the Castle of Freudenourg, de- stroyed in 143 7. Also half an hour's walk are the ruins of the fortress of Wartenstein, erected in 1307, commanding a magnificent view of the valley and surrounding peaks. Above the ruin is the Pension Wartenstein (good res- taurant), beautifully situated on the edge of a cliff. Two and a half m. above Ragatz is Bart Ffaffers, lying in the ro- mantic Ciorxe of rt'iiflVrs (see below), a deep fissure in the rocks, through which the Tamina rushes in numberless cascades. These springs are said to have been discovered by a hunter in 1038. The first bath house was built above the springs by abbot Hugo II. of Pfatfers in 1242. The holes chiselled in the rock, which supported this building, are still to be seen. The only means of getting the sick into the baths was by letting them down by ropes from the cliff above, and there patients re- mained for days, eating, drinking, and sleeping in the water. In 1543 a wooden gallery was con- structed along the face of the precipice, and in 1628 the bathing- house was removed to its present position. The existing bath nouse was erected in 1707. The baths at Pfaffers are now princi- pally used by the poorer classes since the conveyance of the water to Ragatz, and the erection of the fine hotels there. The road to Pfaffers from Ragatz leads up the narrow valley, hemmed in by precipices 500 to 800 ft. high. There is a carriage road all the way, but walking is more desirable. The ravine opens beyond the Kurhaus, at which tickets (1 fr.) may be obtained. A wooden gallery leads along the gorge between overhanging rocks, in about hr. , to the springs. Umbrellas should be taken as a protection against the water dripping overhead. The chasm in some places is not more than 12 to 14 ft. wide, and its average width is scarcely more than 20 to 30 ft. , while its depth varies from 500 to 800 ft. The walls of the chasm are not generally vertical, but inclined one over the other, at a considerable angle. In some places the one wall overhangs the other so much that the sky above it is entirely excluded, and nowhere in the gorge does the sun shine, even in midsummer, for more than 6 hrs. daily ; in other places the size of the upper fissure has been originally so small, that it has been entirely closed up by the accidental fall of rosks and rub- bish from the heights above. On this account the whole chasm is very dark, giving one much more the feeling of being in a cave or mine, than by the natural banks of a river. Altogether the ravine is very extraordinary, and is one of the most remarkable of its kind in Switzerland. Its greatest rival is the Gorge of Trient (see p. 96). Near the end of the gorge, in a niche in the rock, is the little chapel of St Mary Magdalene. To the right, above the spring, a cross marks the site of the first bath-house from which the sick were let down by ropes. Visitors to the springs can return to Ragatz by the VILLAGE OF PFAFFERS in 1 hrs., by taking the winding path to the right, behind the Kurhaus, pass- ing a finger post showing the way to Valens (see below), till we find ourselves above the ravine which we cross by a natural bridge called the Besckhiss, and then ascend a path cut in steps to the pastures above, where we find a road leading to the Village of Pfaffers (Hot. Lotce, Hot. 34 . ZURICH TO COIRE. Taule), 2 m. S. of Ragatz. In the village is the once powerful BENEDICTINE ABBEY of Pfaffers, built in 1667 on the site of an older building which was de- stroyed by fire. The abbey was founded in 713, and its abbots, who were princes of the empire, continued in an unbroken line for 11 centuries till its suppression in 1837. It is now a lunatic asylum. Returning to Ragatz by the road (2 m.) we pass the ruins of the Castle of Wartenstein (see above). Excursions from Ragatz can be made to the Yasaimcn-Kopf (6675 ft.), guide desirable, 6 frs. The path starts from the Kurhaus at Bad Pfaffers, and branches off to Valens (20 m. ) at the finger post (see above), whence we climb over grassy slopes to the summit in 3 hrs. Magnificent panorama. The Piz Alun (4860 ft.) also commands a fine view. Easy ascent. From Pf&ffers a path ascends in 1^ hours to the hamlet of St Margarethen, thence to the summit in hr. by steps in the rock. Guide desirable from St Margarethen. The Giischcnkopf (2635 ft. ). Path on the right on entering the Tamina Valley on the road to Pfaffers. The ascents of the Piz Sol (9340 ft. , 5Ahrs. ) and the Caleiida (9213 ft. , 5 hrs. ) are both splendid excursions, but only fit for good pedestrians. Guide necessary. To the Oral Luckc, fatiguing, but very interesting. Guide necessary. Path from Valens (see above) to Liisa. Alp in 3 hrs., then another hour over pastures, and an hour's ascent of the Grat Lucke. The view from the summit, of the Piz Sol and its glacier, and the weird and desolate Wildsee at our feet, is most imposing. The Fa I knis (8535 ft), the peak to the E. of Ragatz can be ascended in 9 hrs. there and back. Rather fatiguing. Guide necessary. To the Luzicnstelg Pass (1^ hrs.), between the Flascher- berg and the Falknis. The pass, which is fortified, ascends from Maienfeld, the station beyond Ragatz, or a short cut can be made up the hill direct from Ragatz. The descent can be made through the gateway to Balzars, and thence to the ferry opposite Trubbach Station (see page 22). A bridle path leads from the Luziensteig nearly to the summit of the Fldscherberg (3753ft.). Fine view. Leaving Ragatz we cross the Rhine, and pass .Haienfclrt, 69 m. (Rossli, Sonne), from which a road leads over the Luziensteig (see above). From Landquart 72 m., Hotels, LANDQUART, Reudi) a diligence leaves for Davos and Schuls (see Route LXIX). Passing Zizcrs (52 m. ), near which is Molinara, the summer residence of the Bishops of Coire, we reach Coirc (80i m. ), see page 124. Route 21.- ZURICH TO QLARUS. 35 KOUTE XXI. ZURICH TO GLAEUS AND LINTHAL (BATHS OF STACHELBERG). Railway to Glarus, 46 m., in 2J hrs. ; Fares, 6.90 c., 4.85 c., 2.90 c. Glarus to Linthal, 10J m., in f hr.; Fares, 1.60 c., 1.15 c., 80 c. From Zurich to Nafels. Mol Us (41 J m. ), see Route xx. At Nafels-Mollis we leave the main line and enter the valley of Glarus, hemmed uVby precipitous rocks, and overlooked by the snowy heights of the Gliirnisch (9583ft). Travellers from Con- stance and Rorschach leave the main line at Wesen (see p. 32), the two short branches joining at Nafcls (Hot Zuin Linthof). Its church is the finest in the canton. Its monastery is one of few in Switzerland that have escaped suppression, for which it has only to thank its extreme poverty. Nafels is celebrated as the scene of a bloody battle in 1388, be- tween 500 Swiss and 6000 Austrians, in which the cantons succeeded in throwing off the yoke of their oppressors. The Swiss, entrenched behind some earthworks thrown across the valley, being unable to hold their position owing to the numbers of the attacking force, took to the heights above, and obtained some small reinforcements among the peasants and herdsmen. Then lining the precipices they poured down a murderous discharge of rocks and stones on their enemies, who had given themselves up to plunder, and taking advantage of the confusion into which they were thrown, rushed down and charged them eleven times, finally succeeding in utterly routing them. The Austrians lost 3000 men. In memory of these eleven heroic charges, eleven stones were set up in the same year in the meadow of the REUTEFELDER, where they took place. Every second Thursday in April the natives hold high festival in the meadow in commemoration of the event. On the opposite bank of the canal is the little manufacturing village of MMis (Hot. Bar). In the churchyard are the remains of the heroes killed at Nafels. Passing Netstall (44 m. ), a village much exposed to avalanches, we arrive at. Vlarus (46 m., GLARNER HOF, Ralien, Restaurant on the Bergli, fine view), a busy town lying at the base of the Glarnisch, and the capital of the canton. In 1861 it was almost entirely burnt down, 3000 of its inhabitants being left homeless. The town is often visited by fierce hurri- canes called the Fiihn winds, and by an ancient law every fire, without exception, had to be ex- tinguished during the continu- ance of these storms. As its manufactories began to increase this was found to be so great an inconvenience that the law was on the point of being repealed, but at a meeting of the canton called to decide the matter, it was unanimously resolved to main- tain it. The very next day a stray spark fanned by the Fb'hn wind, which suddenly came up, set the whole town in a blaze. In the old church, Zwingli (pp. 26, 39, 50) was pastor for six years. The Protestants and Roman Catholics now both wor- ship in the handsome new church. 36 Ronte 21. ZURICH TO GLARUS. The new Government buildings are erected on the site of the old church. The Cantonal library contains a small collection of antiquities and coins. Approaching Mitlodi (48J m.) we have a fine view of Todi (11,887 ft.). From Schwanden (50 m., Rest, at the station) a diligence runs to Elm (see p. 40). Passing NIDFURN-HASLEN (51 m. ) we see to the right the fine cascade of the Leuggelbach, and further on on the left the beautiful fall of the Diesbach. I inflillial (53 m.), the terminus, is f m. from the town (Hot. Adler, Hot. Bar), a busy manufacturing centre. A quarter of a mile from the station are the Baths of Stach- elfoerg, (fine large HOTEL, with dependence), beautifully situated and much frequented in the season. The waters, which are very strongly impregnated with sulphur, are efficacious in rheumatism and cutaneous dis- eases. The supply is very small, not exceeding a quart a minute. The view up the valley is very fine. On the right is the Ram- merstock (6975 ft.), and on the left the Selbsanft (9920 ft.), and be- ween them Todi (11,887) and the Bifertenslock (10, 778 ft. ), separated by the Biferten Glacier. Delight- ful walks have been laid out in the neighbourhood. Stachelberg is the best centre for exploring the Todi district. Good guides are always at hand. The easiest points of access com- manding magnificent views are the Braunwald Alp (4920 ft.) and the Rammer-stock (6975 ft.). Guide desirable, 7 frs. and 8 frs. A pleasant walk, 35 min. , is along the left bank of the river to the Cascade of the F&twhbach. A most delightful excursion is to the Pantelbrttcke (3212 ft.), a bridge 160 ft. above the Linth, situated in wild and romantic scenery. A carriage road (1 horse carr. there and back, 8 frs. ; ^ day, 12 frs.) leads through Lin- thal in 4J m. to the HOTEL TODI. Ten min. before arriving at the hotel we pass the beautiful fall of the Schreienback, 230 ft. high. The hotel is pleasantly situated in a green meadow hemmed in by towering heights. Beyond it a path crossing the river leads steeply up for ^ hr. , passing a tablet to the memory of Dr Wislicenus, who was killed by falling over a precipice on the Grlinhorn in 1866. Now de- scending a little we reach in ^ hr. the Pantelbrttcke. From the Pantelbrucke the Ofocr Sandal j (6358 ft.) can be ascended in 3 hrs. The path ascends to the right, crossing the Limmernbach and Sandbach, which it follows on the left bank to the Untere Sandalp, 1 hr. (4100 ft. , Tavern). We now recross the stream and follow the right bank, crossing the Biferten Bach, which de- scends from the Biferten Glacier, and ascend a steep slope past the fine waterfall of the Sandbach. Above us towers a mighty pre- cipice a mile high. Entering a little green basin we come in sight of the snowy peaks of Todi, and again crossing the stream reach (2J hrs.) the Ofocr Sand - alp (6358 ft, refreshments and hay-beds at the chalets). The view is most magnificent and well repays the ascent. The ascent of TODI (11,887 ft.) should only be attempted by ex- perienced mountaineers. 11 hrs. Guides, 40 frs. each. Routed. WADENSWYL TO EINSIEDELN. 37 EOUTE XXII. STACHELBEEG TO ALTOEF OVEK THE KLAUSEN PASS. Bridle Path in 7 hrs. to Unterschachen. Guide unnecessary. Thence diligence every morning, 7 m. in lj hrs. Horse to Unterschachen, 27 frs.; to Altorf , 32 frs. Leaving Stachelberg we follow the left bank of the Linth to the Cascade of the Fatschbach (35 min. ). The path then ascends through the wood in If hrs. to the valley of Ifrner Bodaii. To the right are the rugged peaks of the Jiigernstticke and Mdreiiburg, and with its glaciers and snow fields. In 25 min. we pass the tavern Zur Sonne, and 25 min. more the hamlet of Spiteh-utiCFewem, Zurn Tell). In $ hr. we leave the pas- tures and ascend over a stony slope in 1^ hrs. to the summit of the Kliuiseu Pass (6437 ft. ), from which we have a magnifi- cent view of the glaciers of the Claridenstock. On the top of the pass is a little refuge. As we descend we have a view of the Grouse Scheerhorn (10,815 ft.). In J hr. the path divides, and we take that to the left, passing the chalets of Balmuand, from which in ^ hr. we ascend rapidly to the Aescl* (4173 ft., Inn Staubi). To the left is the fine Cascade of the Staufolbach. Following the left bank of the brawling Sc/Mchenbach we pass (J hr.) the chapel of St Anna, and crossing the stream we reach (J hr.) Uiiterscliaclien (Hot. Clausen, comfortable Inn). The village is beautifully situated at the entrance to the Brunnithal, looking up which we see the icy slopes of the Grosse Ruchen (10,295 ft.). To the right is the Schachenthaler Windgelle (9050 ft.). The carriage road from Unterschachen descends through a pleasant valley to Burqlen, 6 m. (p. 71), and AUorf (p. 71). EOUTB XXIIL WADENSWYL'TO EINSIEDELN AND SCHWYZ. Railway to Einsiedeln 21 m., in 1 hr. ; Fare, 2 frs., 1 fr. 20 c. Diligence from Einsiedeln to Schwyz, IGJm.in 2| hrs.; Fare, 3'95c., Brunnen on Lake Lucerne, 3 m. from Schwyz, can be reached either by diligence or railway. The railway commands beauti- ful views of the lake as it as- cends. Passing through the pic- turesque ravine of Schindellegi (14 m. ) we reach i ni>ii. in (HOT. PFAU, Sonne, Adlei-), or NOTRE DAME DES KRMITF.S, a village consisting almost entirely of inns for the accommodation of the great an- nual Komaii Catholic Pilgrim- age, on the 14th Sept., when 150,000 pilgrims congregate here. The origin of the pilgrimage is, that in the reign of Charlemagne Count Meinrad of Sulgen, on 38 . WADENSWYL TO EIXSIEDELS. the Neckar, one of the Hohen- zollern family, wearied with the vanities of the world, betook himself to the neighbourhood of Einsiedeln, then a wilderness, to spend the close of his life in fasting and prayer, and in the worship of a small image of the Virgin, given him by St Hilde- garde, Abbess of the Church of Notre Dame at Zurich. In 861 he was murdered in this lonely spot by two brigands, who would doubtless have remained undiscovered, but that two pet ravens belonging to the hermit kept hovering over them, follow- ing them with accusing croaks as far as Zurich, where the atten- tion of the people being attracted, they were arrested and finally executed. This miracle invested the spot where the saint had lived with such an odour of sanctity that a Benedictine Ab- bey was afterwards founded on the site of his cell. On the 14th Sept. 948, when the Bishop of Constance was about to dedicate the Abbey, a vision of the Saviour, surrounded by angels, appeared to him at midnight, the heavenly voices telling him that the consecration had already been performed by Christ him- self. Pope Leo VIII. then issued a bull accepting the miracle, and giving a plenary indulgence to all who should make the pilgrim- age to the shrine of "our Lady of the Hermit." The offerings of the pilgrims made the Abbey, next to that of St Gallen, (now suppressed, p. 39) the richest in Switzerland. The order numbers 60 priests, 20 monks, and a large number of lay brethren. The abbots were created Princes of the Em- pire in 1247 by Rudolf of Haps- burg, which title they still bear in the Roman Catholic cantons. The invading French army, dur- ing the Revolution of 1798, car- ried away most of the treasures of the Abbey to Paris, but the monks were able to save the sacred image of the Virgin which had been worshipped by St Meinrad. They took refuge among the mountains of the Tyrol for several years, return- ing to the Abbey in 1803. In 1861 they celebrated the thou- sandth anniversary of the death of the Saint and the foundation of the Abbey. A large number of the pilgrims are of the poorer classes, who make, for a fee, vi- carious pilgrimages for their richer brethren. The principal manufacture of the village is souvenirs for the pilgrims, the firm of Benzegar alone employing 700 workmen. The Abbey, which has been several times partly destroyed by fire, was rebuilt in 1719 in Italian style. The interior of the CHURCH is gaudily decorated with inferior frescoes and pictures. In the black marble CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, protected by an iron railing, and illuminated by con- stantly burning lamps, is the SHRINE in which is the little figure of the Virgin that be- longed to St Heinrad. It is richly attired in gold brocade, and gh'tters with gold and pre- cious stones. Round the chapel are hung grotesque votive tab- lets depicting every conceivable ill that human flesh is heir to. Of the once valuable TREASURES in the sacristy, nothing remains since the despoiling of the abbey in 1798, but a fine mon- strance. In the LIBRARY, numbering 26,000 vols., is a fine collection of MSS. and a Museum of Mine- rals and Natural History. In front of the abbey is a black marble Fountain with 14 jets, at which tradition says our Saviour drank after he appeared to the Bishop of Constance. All the Route -2. SCHWYZ TO GLARUS. 39 pilgrims, therefore, drink from it too. ZiriiKjli, the reformer (pp. 26- 50), was pastor at Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519, and such is said to have been the effect of his preach- ing that even during the pilgrim- age the abbey was almost de- serted. The summit of the Herrenberg (3650 ft.) commands a fine view of the surrounding country. From Einsiedeln the diligence passes Biberbruck (3 m.), and leads up the valley of the Biber to Kothciithiirm (7\ m., Inn, Och,-;), the meeting place of the parliament of the Canton Schwyz, and so named from a red tower (still standing), which was part of the fortifications erected by the Schwyzers to repel the Aus- trian invasion. About 2 m. from the village, on the southern shore of the little E I licnsi ci ii. a rock 80 ft. high, bearing on the S. side an inscription in large gilt letters : " Dem Sanger Tells Friederich Schiller die Ur Kantone, 1869." (To the singer of Tell from the old Cantons. ) On the 46 Route 27. LUCERNE, PILATUS, N. side is another inscription commemorating the accidental death of a young Swiss officer here. Beyond this rock is a beautiful green meadow called the Griitli. Here at midnight of the 7th Nov. 1307, thirty patriotic Swiss from the three surrounding cantons met and formed a solemn league, to free their country from the oppres- sion of the Austrians. Issuing from the rock in the meadow are three springs, which tradition says, gushed forth when the oath was sworn, from the spot on which stood the three leaders, Walter Furst, Arnold, and Stauffacher. In 1859 the Swiss Society for Public Beneti : raised a subscription among the youths of Switzerland to buy the meadow and present it to the nation. Across the lake on the face of the Frohnalpstock may be seen a cleft from which an enor- mous block of stone fell into the lake, raising a swell which carried away five houses in Sisikon, and drowned nine persons. Touching at SISIKON we afterwards reach the landing of Tell's Platte (Restaurant : Hotel zur TelCs Platte higher up). A short walk from the landing is the rocky ledge on which is Tell's Chapel. Tradition says this was the rock on to which Tell sprang when he escaped from the boat in which Gessler was carrying him prisoner (p. 71). The earliest history of Tell is found in the MS. of the Weisses Buck at Sarnen (p. 58). The old chapel built in 1368 was taken down in 1879, as the walls were crumbling away. It was rebuilt in its original form in 1880. The walls of the chapel are frescoed with scenes from Swiss history by Swiss artists. The last landing-place is Fliielen (Kreiitz, Tell). The station for the St Gotthard rail- way is opposite the landing-place (see p. 71). (6.) LUCERNE TO KUSSNACHT AND IMMKNSEE, 8 m. in 1 hr. ; Fares 2 fcs., 1 fc. Leaving Lucerne (p. 42) and rounding the promontory of Meggenhorn and entering the Lake of Kiissnacht, we see on the left the fine new chateau of New Hapsburg. Behind it is the tower of the ancient castle of Hapsburg, built in 1242 by Count Rudolph, and laid in ruins by the confederates in 1352. The first stop is at Hinter- Meggen (PENSION GOTTLIEBEN, comfortable). We now cross to Greppen under the Rigi, and reach Kiissnacht (lien. DU LAC, Schwartzer Adler). An omnibus runs to Immensee (2 m. ) in con- nection with the steamers on Lake Zug (p. 50). Leaving Kiissnacht we pass on the right (f m.) a fragment of a wall said to be the ruins of Gessler's Castle (p. 71). A little farther on we pass through the Hiihle Gasse, or hollow way, where Tell shot Gessler after his escape at Tell's Chapel. The spot, \ m. from Immensee, is marked by Tell's Chapel. A frescoe of the event is on the outer wall. Tourists can either return to Lucerne from the station Im- niensee Kiissnacht (p. 71), or go on m. to Immensee (p. 50). (c.) LUCERNE TO ALPNACH GESTAD, see Route xxxi. Route 27. LUCERNE, PILATUS, d-c. THE EIGI. The summit of the Rigi is reached by rail either from VITZNAU on Lake Lucerne, or irom ARTH-GOLDAU near Lake Zug. The former is the most convenient route for travellers coming from Lucerne, and the latter from Zurich. For the RIGI-SCHEIDEGG a branch line goes off at Rigi-Kaltbad, a station on the Vitznau line. A mule track also leads to the summit from Weggis (p. 44). The railways are open from 1st June to 1st October. Travellers making the ascent should invariably bring warm wraps with them. Hotels. The hotels on the Rigi are fine large establishments, and during summer are crowded not only by tourists who make the ascent simply to see the magnificent view, but by many persons who take advantage of the glorious scenery and invigorating mountain air to make a prolonged stay. Tourists intending to stay over night at any of the Rigi hotels should invariably telegraph or write for their rooms in advance. On the Rigi-Kulm, the highest point, are SCHRKIBER'S RIGI KULM HOTELS, large and comfortable. On the Rigi-Staffel, where the two routes meet, are the HOTEL RIGI-STAFFEL, best. Hotel Slaffel Kulm, and Hotel Rirji-bafin, only tolerable. At the junction of the Vitznau and Rigi-Scheidegg lines is the fine RIGI-KALTBAD HOTEL, comfortable, and much frequented by persons making a prolonged stay. The Hotel Bellevue, moderate. On the Rigi-Scheidegg Railway are the HOTEL RIGI- FIRST, and at the terminus is the fine HOTEL RIGI-SCHEIDEGG, very comfortable, moderate charges. Recommended for a prolonged visit. The Rigi (5900 ft.) is a group of mountains dividing theLake of Lu- cerne fromLake Zug and the small Lowerzer See. From the Lakes of Lucerne and Zug the rugged sides rise precipitously from the water, but slope more gradually towards the Lowerzer See. From the summit the view on a clear day comprises a magnificent pano- rama of over 300 miles in circum- ference. As early as the beginning of lastcentury,hotelswere erected on the Rigi for the accommoda- tion of the numerous pilgrims who flocked there to pray at the shrine of St Marie zum Schnee, or St Mary of the Snow, which was erected in 1690, and which was supposed to have miraculous powers of healing. The view from the Kuliii is the most extensive to the north and west, and that from the Schci- clcgg to the south and east, while the views of the Bernese Alps are equally fine from both summits. Tourists should by no means omit seeing both views, as though the outlook from the Kulm is the more extensive, nothing can exceed the beauty of the view of the Urner See and its surround- ing heights as seen from the Scheidegg. After enjoying the grand pano- rama as a whole, the scene should be viewed in detail through J. Waldis' powerful telescope. Waldis will point out at the same time all the different peaks and glaciers. Itoute from Vil/n.-iii. This route affords much finer views than the Arth-Goldau route, which runs for the greater part of the distance in a valley. Fares for the ascent from Vitznau to the Kaltbad, 4^ frs. ; to the Staffel, 6 frs. ; and to the Kulm, 7 frs. Time, 1 hr. 20 min. De- scent, 3J frs. ; 10 Ibs. luggage free ; each additional 100 Ibs., 1 fr. For route from Lucerne to Vitznau by steamer, see page 44. The line, which is run on the " rack and pinion " system, attains a maximum gradient of 1 in 4. The speed of running does not exceed 4 miles per hour. 48 Routed. LUCERNE, PILATUS, Between the main rails is a heavy notched rail which is gripped by powerful cogwheels under the engine. Both engines and car- riage have enormously powerful breaks which can instantaneously stop the train if required. Leaving Vitznau, as the train creeps straight up the steep slope, the view of the lake begins to expand, and far above us we see the Hotel Rigi-Kaltbad. Turning abruptly, the line runs parallel with the mountain side, through a short tunnel, and then crosses the deep ravine of Schnurtobel over a light iron bridge, the view from which is very fine. The train now stops a few minutes at Freibergen to water, and again at Romiti- Felsenthor. Next we come to the Kaltbad (4728 ft.) (KURHAUS KALTBAD, a much frequented health resort, delightfully situ- ated and sheltered from the cold N. and E. winds ; Bellemie at the station). Immediately behind the Kurhaus is St Michaels Chapel. A spring issuing from a rock is called Schwesternborn, from a legend that three beauti- ful sisters were brought here by an angel to find refuge from the unwelcome addresses of an Austrian bailiff in the time of TelL The chapel is hung with votive offerings of quaint pic- tures. On the left wall is a marble tablet erected to the memory of Mary Stanley by her brother the late Dean of Westminster. Ten minutes walk from the Hotel is the Kiiii/li, where from a projecting rock is a grand view, especially beautiful at sunset. (For line to the Scheidegg, see page 49.) Staffelluihe is the next station. Just after leaving Staffelhohe as we emerge from the cutting, a magnificent panorama of the country lying to the north and west breaks upon us, the sides o the mountain descending almost vertically to the plain. Eight minutes farther on is Rigi Staffel, where the line from Arth joins in (see page 49). The peak to the S. W. (12 min. to summit from the station) is the Rigi Rothstock (5456 ft.), which commands the finest view of Lake Lucerne. From the Kulm, portion of the lake is hidden by the intervening peaks. Rigi Kulm is the terminus, and the highest point on the Rigi. The sunrise from the Kulm (5906 ft.) is but seldom seen in all its beauty, but once so seen is a sight never to be forgotten. An alpine horn is blown half an hour before sunrise, and the traveller will do well to heed at once its warning notes, as the first breaking of the dawn is not the least lovely part of the en- chanting scene. At rare intervals the curious phenomenon of the spectre of the Rigi is seen. On the mist rising from the valley beneath, the sun throws in clear outline the shadows of the mountain, and those who may be on its summit. Sometimes the shadows are encircled with a halo of pris- matic colours. To the south we see the whole range of the Bernese Alps, with the towering heights of the Jung- frau, Silberhorn, Eiger, Monch, Wellborn, the three peaks of the Wetter horn, and highest of all the Finsteraarhorn (14,000 ft.). Then comes the Unterwalden range with its loftiest peak of Titlis. Farther to the left are the Uri-Rothstock and the Blackenstock, with their glaciers, the pyramid of the Bristenstock, then the double peak of the Scheerhorn, and behind, Todi. To the east, in the distance Route 27. LUCERNE, PILATUS, dx. are the snowy heights of the Glarnisch, and nearer, like gig- antic sentinels, are the sharp and solitary peaks of the Mythen, while beyond, Sentis, in the Canton Appenzell, just shows above the horizon. Sloping down to the little Lowerzer See is the ROSSBERG, on whose side is clearly seen the awful scar left by the great landslip. The Rossberg is formed like the Rigi of a hard conglomerate of small Hints and limestone bound to- gether with a natural cement ; through this, run strata of softer rock. On the evening of the 22d Sept. 1806, through the undermining of the softer strata by heavy rains, without a moment's warning, a huge por- tion of the mountain side, 2 miles long, 1000 ft. wide, and 100 ft. thick, fell from a height of 3000 ft. into the valley be- low, burying 4 villages and 450 persons. The Lowerzer See, one fourth of which was filled up, rose 80 ft. sweeping into the lake the houses on its bank with their inhabitants. Some of the debris was precipitated a distance of over 5 miles. The effects of the landslip are best seen from the Rigi Scheidegg. Turning now to the north and west, Lake Zug lies at our feet, and stretching far away to the mountains of the Black Forest, are the fertile plains of the Canton of Luzerne, dotted with the smaller lakes of Sempach, Baldegg, and Hallwyl. Still farther to the west, right below us, is the Bay of Kussnacht, and beyond, the town of Lucerne, to the left of which rise the frowning heights of Pilatus. 2. Route from Arth-tioldau. Arth-Goldau is reached by rail either from Lucerne (1 hr., see p. 71) or Zurich (see p. 50). Connection is also made at Arth with the steamers on Lake Zug (see page 50). The Arth-Goldau Railway is run on the same system as the Rigi railway. Time, 1 hr. 16 min. ; fare, 8 frs. ascent. Return ticket, 11 frs. Descent, 4 frs. Ascend- ing the valley lying between the Kulm and the Scheidegg, and stopping at the small stations Krabel (2507 ft. ) and Fruttli (3780 ft.), we arrive at Klosterli (Hotels Schwert, Sonne), where is the shrine of St Maria zum Schnee already alluded to. The chapel is still much visited by pilgrims on 5th August and 6th September. From Klosterli a short path leads to the Rigi- First, a station on the Rigi- Scheidegg line (see below). At Rigi-Staflfcl the Rigi railway is joined. See above. 3. Route from Rlgi-Kaltbnd to the Rixt-Sclieldegg. 40 min. Fare, 2.50. Return ticket, 3.60. This railway is built on the or- dinary railway system, having small engines with powerful breaks. The line winds round the precipitous sides of the Roth- stock and Scheidegg, affording lovely views of the lakes and mountains. The first stop is at Rigi-Flrst, where is the fineRiGl- FIRST HOTEL. At Unterstetten is the small Hotel Rigi- Unterstetten. Passing through the Weisseneck Tunnel and over a viaduct we reach the Scheidegg, and shortly after the terminus at the Rigi- Scbcldegg Ilofel, a most de- lightful stopping-place, and well recommended. A pleasant excursion combin- ing these three routes may bo made by going first to the sum- mit of the Kulm, then returning to the Kaltbad and taking the line for the Rial- Scheidegg. Re- turn from the Rigi-Scheidegg tc the Rigi-First station, and walk down the mountain to KlSsterli, 10 min., whence taice the Arth- Rigi line to Arth-Goldau, p. 71, 50 Route 28. ZURICH TO ZUG AND LUCERNE. ROUTE XXVIII. ZURICH TO ZUG AND LUCERNE. Railway to Zug, 24J m., 1-1$ hrs. Fares, 4.5 c., 2.85 c., 2.5 c. To Lucerne, 41 m., lf-2 hrs. Fares, 7 frs., 4.90 c., 3.50 c. Best views on the left, Another route is by rail or steamer to Horgen or Wadensweil, and thence to Zug by omnibus, see below. A. RAIL ROUTE. At Altstetten (2J m.) we leave the Bale line and pass through the Reppisch-Thal, having a fine view of the Uetleberg (p. 27) on our left. Emerging from a tunnel under the Ettenberg we come in sight of the Bernese Alps, the Rigi, and Mt. Pilatus. From Metmenstetten an omnibus (1 hr.) runs to Hausen, where is the hydropathic establishment of A Ibisbrunn. 1 m. from Hausen on the road to Boar (p. 51) is a monument marking the spot where Zwingli fell in battle, fight- ing against the Roman Catholic cantons, Oct. 11, 1531. He died in the small church of Kappel near by. Zug (24 m., pop. 5000, HOT. HIKSCH, Zuricharhof. Lowe, Ochs), on the Lake of Zug, is the capital of the canton. In the Arsenal is a collection of ancient arms and standards. One of the latter is stained with the blood of the stand- ard bearer, Peter Collins, who was killed at the battle of Arbedo between the Swiss and Milanese (p. 74). In the church of St Oswald are some pictures and church treasures. Outside of the town is the church of St Michael. In the mortuary chapel attached, are a large number of skulls which have been labelled with the names and dates of the birth and death of the deceased. The new Government Building is a handsome renaissance edifice. On the W. side, on the Zuger- lerg (3220 ft.), are the handsome KURHAUS FELSEXBERG and KUR- HAUS SCHONFELS, surrounded by beautiful grounds and command- ing lovely views. Omnibus twice daily from the station, 2J frs. At Menzingen, 4J m. E., is the hydropathic establishment of SCHONBRUN, comfortable. [Steamers run on the Lake of Zug, in connection with the trains, to ARTH (see p. 71) stop- ping at Walchwyl and Immensee. Fare, 1.60 c., 90 c. The Lake of Zug, 9 m. long by 2^ wide, is most picturesquely situated at the foot of the N. slope of the Rigi. From Im mensee omnibuses run to Kuu- nacht, on Lake Lucerne, 2f m. (see p. 46) thrice daily. From ARTH, at the foot of the lake (Hot. A dler, du Rigi), a branch railway runs to Artli doldnii for the railway up the Rigi (see p. 49).] The trains back out of Zug station, so tourists should change their seats accordingly. Chain (Inn Robe) is a large centre for the manufacture of condensed milk. The church has a fine slender spire. Rotnkrenz (31 m. , small restaurant atthestation) is the junction for the St Gotthard line (p. 70) and the line to Aarau (p. 28). Approaching Lucerne we skirt the little Jtothsee, 1^ m. long, and crossing the Reims join the line from Bale. Lucerne, sec p. 42. Routed. LUCERNE TO BERNE. B. ZURICH TO ZDG BY HOKGEN. Railway, 11 m., J hr., or steamer, If hr. to Horgen. Omnibus to Zug (12 m.), at 8.50 a.m., in -2$ hrs. Fare, 2.80 c. Carriage, 1 horse, 10 frs. ; 2 horses, 16 frs. To Hoi-yen, (see p. 31), pedes- trians should take the road over the Horger Egg to the Sihl Br'Acke (see below). It saves 2 miles, and the views are finer. Leaving Horgen the road as- cends in zig-zags, passing the Kurhaus Bokken, formerly an old chateau. At HAURUTHI we join the road from Wa'denswyl (p. 31). At HIRZEL (4J m., Inn Zum Morgeiithal) we reach the top of the ascent and then descend into the valley of the Sihl. In 6 m. we cross the curious covered SlHLBRUCKE(.//trt,.X>owe). At Biiar (Lindenhof) (see p. 50) is a bone house, where the natives deposit in piles, the skulls of their deceased friends. In the village is a cotton mill with 70,000 spindles and 640 windows. Zug, 12 m. , see above ROUTE XXIX. LUCERXE TO BERXE BY THE EMMENTHAL. ITS. ; Fares, 11 frs., 7.50 c., 5.50 c. Best views on the left. [The NAFF (4620 ft., Inn) can be ascended in 2J hrs. On the slope, 2 hrs. from Entlebuch, is the KURHAUS MENZBURG. Splendid view. 8 m. S. of Entlebuch are the baths of Schimberger (4680 ft., KURHAUS SCHIMBERGER), with sulphur springs. Carriage road for 6 m. (2 pers., 10 frs.), then bridle path to the baths. Horse all the way, 10 frs. The hotel commands a charming view, and is surrounded by pleasant grounds. >< lnipliH im (Inn, Adler). 1| m. to the E., is the Kurhaus He'dlg-Kreuz, a summer resort. Laugiiau, 26 m., pop. 7200 (Hot. Emmenthat), is a prosperous vil- lage in the Emmenthal, a fer- tile valley, 25 m. long by 12 wide. Its pasturage is very rich, no less than 5000 tons of cheese being annually exported. A branch line runs to Burgdorf (p. 4). At G'Amlingeii, 54 m. , the line from Thun joins in. Passengers for Thun change here. Berne (P- 5). Railway, 59 m., s Leaving Lucerne (p. 42) the train passes through a long tunnel, J m. under the Zimmeregg into the broad valley of the Kleine Einme. To the L. is Mt. Pilatus. Mailers, 1\ m. (Inn, Kreuz), with a fine church. [24 m. south of Malters is Schwar- zenberg (2760 ft., WEISSES KREUZ, Kurhaus Matt), a pleasant summer resort; omnibus four times daily. 2 m. higher up the hill (3494 ft.) is a comfortable inn, Kurhans Eigenthal. From Malters also, a road (64 m.), leads over the Bramegg Pass to Entle- buch (see below). 34 m. on the road is the KURHAUS FAKSBUHLEH, com- fortable, fine views, with a mineral spring containing iron and soda.] Passing Schachen and crossing the Emmet, we see on the L. the old monastery of Werthemtein, now an asylum for the deaf and dumb. At Woblhausen we enter the fertile valley of the Entlebuch. Entlebuch (Hot. du Port). 52 Route 30. BERNE TO THUN AND INTERLAKEX. EOUTB XXX. BERNE TO THUN AND INTERLAKEX. Railway to Thnn, 1 hr., 3.35 c., 2.35 c., 1.70 c. Steamers from Thun to Interlaken, 2 hrs. Passengers for Interlaken keep their places to Seherz- lingen, the landing place for the Steamers, f m. from Thun. Through tickets to Interlaken, 6.40 c., 5.35 c., 3.20 c. Second class tickets are available for the saloon on the boat. Leaving Bern we pass through a fertile but uninteresting valley to Thun, the Bernese Alps being in view most of the distance. THUN, pop. 5200. Hotels GRAND HOTEL DE THUN, magnificent and veiy comfortable hotel, beautifully situated on the Aare, recommended for a prolonged stay. BELLEVUE, large and comfortable. HOTEL BAUMGARTEN. Good second class, Falke, on the Aare. Freifrihof, near the quay. Kreuz, in the town. Cafes, Cafe du Casino, Cafe Freienhof. Boats, 2 frs. per hr. with boat- man, 50 c. without. Eng. Chapel in the Hotel Bellevue garden. Thnn, beautifully situated on both banks of the river Aare, at its exit from the lake, is one of the most picturesque towns in Switzerland. Besides the large number of tourists who pass through to and from Interlaken, many English and American families pass the entire summer at Thun. Indeed, there is no place in Switzerland that affords more attractions as a summer resort. The most prominent ob- jects are the Church and ancient Chateau. A covered flight of 218 steps leads up to them from the town. The church was built in 1738, after the burning of an ancient building of the 10th cent., the only remaining por- tion of which is the tower and the passage below it. On the walls of this passage are some ancient frescoes, recently dis- covered under -a coat of white- wash. The Tiew from the Churchyard, of the town, lake, and mountains is very striking and beautiful Alongside the Church is the square turreted Chateau, built in 1264 by the Counts of Kyberg (p. 28), on their inheriting sovereign rights over Thun, from Berthold V. of Zahringen. The lower walls of the castle are 15 ft. thick. The old banqueting hall is now divided into two storeys, and is much dilapidated. The kitchen fire-place, capable of roasting an ox whole, still remains. The portion of the building to the S. is now the municipal offices. On the walls are the arms of all the Mayors of Thun, from 1375 to 1830. The Staadthaus is a curious mediaeval building, containing the town library and some his- torical relics. To the S. of the railway station is the large Federal Military College, and manufactory of ammunition. The Keramic Museum contains a fine collection of Thun majolica on sale. In the Cafe Mav.lbeerbohm the Emp. Nap. III. lived for several years, while serving in the Swiss army. The Federal Stables were established to im- prove the breed of horses. The foals are called to feed by beat of drum. Pleasant walks are along the Promenade Schabis, on the bank of the Aare. To the handsome Chateau Routed. BERNE TO THUN AND INTERLAKEN. 53 fi/nirfdu of Mons. Kougemont of Berne, on the lake (^ m.) near Scherzlingen. The gardens are open to visitors on Sunday. To the Promenade of RiLchi- tna.it, with shady walks and lovely views. Near the Bachimatt is the Chartreuse (visitors admitted), an ancient Gothic chateau, built in the 13th cent, by the warrior- poet Von Stratlingen, whose tomb is in the Bae/ukolzli, in the grounds. This walk can be pleasantly continued by following the path ascending through the pretty ravine of the Kohleren to the beautifully wooded Orunis- lerg. The finest point of view on the Grusisberg is the Raben- fluk or " raven's rock " (3850 ft.), on which is a pavilion. The walks through the Grusisberg woods are charming, and the different directions are all indicated by finger-posts. To the Pavilion Si Jacques, fine view, 10 min. ascent behind the Hotel Bellevue. A delightful walk is also past the Chartreuse, to the fine new Chateau of Hunegg, with beauti- ful grounds (adm. by applying to the gardener), and on to the villages of Hilterfingen and Ober- hofen (1 hr.), where there is a steamboat landing. Thun is almost unrivalled as a centre for making delightful Excursions. Among them are those to the \iescii (7760 ft. ). Steamboat to Spiez (p. 54). Thence drive to Wimmis (3^ m.). Mail-carriage, with 3 scats, daily. One horse carriage, 4 frs. A mail carriage also runs from Thun to Brodhiisi, (p. 81), 1 m. from Wimmis, twice daily, in 1 hr. Bridle patli from Wimmis in 4$ hrs. The ascent can also be made from Heust rich- Bad (p. 79) in 4 hrs., or Frutigcn in 5 hrs. (p. 79). Horse from either of these starting points, 17 frs. If kept all night (unnecessary, as the descent (3 hrs.) is easier made on foot), 25 frs. Guide (unnecessary), 8 frs. Chairs, 12 frs. each porter. The path from Wimmis is the best, but the route can be pleasantly varied by ascending from Wim.nis, and descending to Heustrich- Bad (p. 79), from which an omnibus runs daily to Thun. Tourists intend- ing to continue their journey over the Gemmi Pass (Route LXIII.) should descend to Frutigen (p. 79). Tourists ascending in the morning should start from Wimmis, in the afternoon from Heustrich-Bad. Wi minis (Inn, Lowe) is a pretty village, with an ancient castle, once belonging to the Barons of Weissenberg ; now a school. The summit of the Nicsen (7760 ft.) Commands a magnificent view of the Bernese Oberland, rivalling that from the Faulhorn, and even finer than the more distant prospect from the Rigi. It also embraces a panorama of tha higher peaks of the Mont Blanc and Jura ranges. There is fairly comfortable Inn on the summit. The different peaks visible are indicated in Dill's panorama at the Inn. To the summit of the Stock- horn (7200 ft. , magnificent view). Post- wagon to Blumenstein, see below, thence 4 hrs. ; or from A msoldigen, 3i m. . ascent 4^ hrs. ; or from Erlenbach, lOJm., ascent 4J hrs. All these ascents are difficult, especially the latter, which is exceedingly so. Guide necessary. To Critrnigel Bad, 4 hrs. drive, 1 horse carriage, 25 frs., 2 horse, 50 frs. , but bargain can sometimes be made for less. Or mountain path, 3 hrs. walk, guide necessary. Gurnigel is a beautiful health resort, much frequented by Swiss and Germans. The fine KURHAUS GUR- NIGEL, 500 beds, kept by the Hauser Bros., is delightfully situated amid lovely woods and gardens. As it is purely a health resort, the fare is plain but good, and prices exceedingly moderate. A continual round of amuse- 54 Route W.BERXE TO TIIUN AND INTERLAKEX. ments during the season (June to Sept. ) is provided for visitors. Gurnigel can also be reached from Berne by diligence twice daily in 5 hrs. (7 frs. ; coupe", 8.60o.) To the Baths of Weisscnbnrg, 14J m. (p. 82). To St Beateiiberg (p. 57). Steamers to Merlinrjen. To the Baths of Bl union- stein (6 m., post-wagon, 1.30 c.). Comfortable Hotel. Moderate prices. A picturesque village, at which is the pretty cascade of the Fallback. THUN TO TNTERLAKEN. Steamers, 4 times daily in 2 hrs., starting from the quay at Thun, and stopping at Scherzlingen to embark railway passengers from Berne. From Darlingen, at the head of the lake, trains run in 10 min. to Interlaken. Fares, Thun to Interlaken, 2.55 c. A new road resembling the AxenrtraMe (p. 45) has been constructed along the N. shore of the lake to Interlaken. Carriages at moderate rates. The drive is most picturesque all the way, recommended. The Lake of Thun is a beauti- ful sheet of water, 11 m. long by 2 m. broad, and surrounded on all sides by precipitous moun- tains. Leaving Scherzlingen we enter the lake and see on the L. the Chateau Chartreuse (p. 53), and on the R. the Chateau Schadau (p. 53). On the R. also we see the peaks of the Stockhorn and Niesen, and farther on the three peaks of the Blumlis A Ip. Now passing on the L. the Chateau Hunegg (p. 53), the steamer touches at Oberhofcn (Pens. Zimmermann, Pens. May), with a picturesque chateau of the 14th cent., for some time the residence of Walter von Eschenbach, one of the murderers of the Emp. Albert (p. 23). It has been recently restored and now belongs to the Countess Pourtales. . n n t< n (Pens, du Lac, Pens. Graber), 20 min. from Gunten, is the picturesque gorge of Ountenschlucht. We now cross over to Spiez (Spiezerhof, on the lake, Pens. INTERLAKEN. Omnibus to all the Hotels, 1 fr. Carriages. 1 horse, first hr., 5 frs., each add. hr., 3 frs. Per day, 1 horse, 15 frs. ; 2 horse. 30 frs. Hotels. On the Iliiheiecg. with view of the Jungfrau, are the HOTEL VIC- TORIA, very comfortable ; HOTEL RITSCHAKD ; HOTEL JUNGFRAU, also comfortable. These hotels are magnificent large establishments of ttie very first class. HOTELS SWEIZERHOF, BELVEPEKE, DB SALPF.P. BEAU Schonegg on the hill, J m. from the landing), with an ancient castle, said to have been originally built by the Romans. It was enlarged in ] 250 bv the Barons of Strattlingen. From 1518 to 18SO it belonged to the family of Von Erlach. It was then sold to Prince Charles of Prussia. Leaving Spiez the peaks of the Jungfrau, Mdnch, Eiyer, Schrecic- lorn, and Wetterhm-n come into view on the right. Faiilensee, on the hill above is the FAULENSEE BAD, a large pension. We now cross over to Merlin- gen (Inn, Ldice). beyond which the promontory of the Nose, a spur of the Beatenlwrg, juts out. From Merlingen a steep path leads in 1^ hrs. to the village of St Beateiiberg (p. 57). Farther on, in the face of the Beatenberg, is the Beaten boh le or cave of St Beatus (p 57). The steamer ends the voyage at Darl in sen, whence the railway takes us in 10 m. to r Rovf<- W.BEHXE TO THUN AND INTERLAKEN. 55 RIVAGE, all first-class. On the Riigni, about the same distance from the station, is the HOTEL JUNGFRAUBLICK, very fine hotel, exceedingly comfortable, in beautiful gardens with splendid view of the Jungfrau Near the Hoheweg, on the Matten road, is the HOTEL WTDER, large and comfortable. Second-class Hot. Interlaken, Hot. Oberland, Hot. du Lac, Dcutscher Hof. At UNTERSEEN, Hot. Unterseen, Hot. Beau Site. Casino on the Hoheweg, in pleasant gardens, with reading, conversation, bil- liard, and ball rooms. Concerts daily, 7.30 to 8.30 A.M., 3.30 to 5 P.M., and 8 to 10 P.M. Children's dances at 3 PM., and reunions dansantes in the evening. Jen de Courses, a mild form of gambling. Whey cure. Admis- sion, 50 c. per day, 2 frs. per week. Families of 2 to 3 persons, 4 frs. pur week, or 12 frs. per mo. Large families, 6 frs. and 18 frs. Restaurants and Cafes. Indermuhle, near the Casino. Oberlander, UKSTAURAXT, TRIXKHALLE, and Cafe Unspunnen in the Rugen Park. Eng. Ch. Ser. in the old monastery at the East end of the Hoheweg. Presby- terian service in the Schloss. Iiiterlakeu (pop. 4200), the most frequented of all the Swiss resorts, is beautifully situated on a narrow plain 3| m. long by 2 m. wide, called the BiJdelL, separating the lakes of T/tun and Breinz. To the south opens the lovely valley of the Lutschine, through which we see the dazzling slopes of the Jimgfriiii (13,670 ft. ), almost from base to summit. Sixty years ago Interlaken was only a tiny hamlet with one poor little inn, while now it is the rendezvous of over 60,000 visitors a year, and no place in Switzerland, except perhaps Geneva, has so many large and comfortable ho- tels. The principal street is the Hohewcg, a long avenue beauti- fully shaded with walnut trees, one side of which is lined with fine hotels, and on the other is a broad green meadow. Con- nected with Interlaken are the hamlets of Aarmiilde and Unter- seen. Interlaken is often very warm in midsummer, but in spring and autumn the climate is delightful. A most pictur- esque feature is the wooden houses, many of which are decor- ated with fine carvings. At the E. end of the Hoheweg are the ancient MONASTERY AND NUNNERY OF INTEHLAKEN, built in 1130. The monastery is now used as a hospital and government offices. The nunnery, connected with the monastery by an underground passage, is now a prison. Both monastery and nunnery were suppressed in 1528 on account -of the bad reputation their inmates had acquired. The Schloss was added to the monastery in 1750. The monastery church has been divided up ; the choir being used for the English Church service, and the nave for the Roman Catholic. The Scotch Presby- terian and French Protestant services are held in the Schloss. 'Walks from Interlaken. To the Klcliic Kiigen, a beautifully wooded park on a hill to the S., planted with specimens of all the Swiss trees by the botanist Kastoferof Berne. Following the Matten road and passing the entrance gates of the Hotel Jungfraublick, we turn to the R. into a shaded avenue, and reach (1J hr.) the TitlNKHALLE (good restaurant). From the terrace we have a lovely view of the Junfffrau and MoTich. A path to the R., a little before coming to the Trink- halle, leads in \ hr. to RugenhShe (2425 ft.), the highest point in the park, commanding fine views of the lakes of Thun and Brienz, the valley of Bo'deli, and the Jungfrau. Leaving the Trink- halle, the road winds round the hill past the Waldgletscher Pa- vilion and the Kastofersifin, a S6 Routed. BERNE TO THUN AND INTERLAKEN. stone bearing an inscription to Kastofer (see above), back in hr. to the Hotel Jungfraublick. The nelmweh-Fluli, 2220 ft. , is reached by passing the Trink- halle (see above), and taking the path to the R, which descends directly into the Wagneren- Schlucld, or that to the L. , which leads to the Caf& Unspunnen (10 min. ), from which we turn to the R. along the main road into Wagneren-Schlucht. The shortest way from Interlaken (| m. ) is by the road passing the station, or that leading through Aarmiihle (see map). From the Wagneren- Schlucht, a path leads in 20 m. to- the Restaurant near the sum- mit. The view is finest from the pavilion a little farther up. The Castle of I ngpnimrn is reached in \ hr. either by the road through the Wagneren- Schlucht (best), or by the road to WilderswyL Tourists visiting the Rugen Park can reach it in 10 min. from the Cafe Unspun- nen (see above). This ancient ruin was one of the fortresses of Berthold, the founder of Berne ; it is also supposed to have been the residence of Byron's Manfred. The Hoblmbl (2090 ft, \ hr.) is reached by crossing the Aare over the bridge at the E. end of the Hoheweg, and taking the path to the left The pavilion commands a fine view of the valley. This walk may be con- tinued by ascending still farther to the Unter-Bleicki, and then fol- lowing the path to the W. and descending to the pavilion on the Lustbithl, and recrossing the Aare behind the Kursaal (li hrs. in all). The ruins of the Castle of Welssenau ( hr.) are on a small island in the Aare at its entrance into Lake Thun. There is a pretty walk along the banks of the Aare to the village of Goldawyl (2 m.), near which is the little Faulenset. From the Tiinnberg, ^ hr. ascent from Goldswyl, is a fine panorama of the Lakes of Thun and Brienz and the valley be- tween. One m. on the road past Goldswyl is the village of Kin- kenberg, with the ruins of a chateau built in 1182, amid which a pretty church has been erected. The ascent of the Harder (5220 ft., 3 hrs.), though ap- parently easy is dangerous , owing to the slippery short grass, and should not be attempted without a guide. Several fatal accidents have occurred to both gentle- men and ladies. Longer Excursions. To the Seliynige Platte (7 m., 3i hrs.), carriage to (jsteig (p. 60). Thence the horse can be ridden to the summit, or a horse may be taken from Inter- laken. Charge for either, 17 frs. Boy, who will carry light luggage, 2 frs. The Schynige Platte (6800 ft.) commands one of the finest views in the Oberland. On the summit is the comfortable HOTEL ALPEX- ROSE. Close to the hotel is a shining slate rock which gives the name to the mountain. To the S. we have a splendid view of nearly all the peaks of the Bernese Alps, Grindlewald gla- ciers, and far below, the valley of Lauterbrunnen and the silvery Steubbach. To the N. we look down on the Lakes of Brienz and Thun and the Inter- laken Valley. The most exten- sive view is from the Dauben/ioni, $ hr. from the hotel. The descent can be made in 2i hrs. to ZveiliUsckinen (p. 60). Guide necessary, 6 frs. About \ m. from the hotel on the Iselten Alp is a. beautiful meadow which supports over 600 head of cattle. From the Schynige Platte a Route SI. LUCERNE TO BRIENZ. 87 bridle path leads in 3 hrs. to the Faulhoni (p. 63). Horse, 14 frs. Guide unnecessary. The Brcitlnnciieii-Alp (4700 ft. , good Inn and Pension) com- mands a magnificent view of the lakes and valley. Beached from Gsteig by the path to the Schynige Platte (see above). St Beatcnberg (2 hrs., DR MULLER'S KURHAUS, comfort- able. HOT. DBS ALPES, HOT. ALPENROSE ; HOT. BELLEVUE). Eng. Ch. Ser. at the Bellevue. Onmibus daily at 3 P. M. , 5 frs. ; returning, 4 frs. ; 1 horse car- riage, 17 frs. ; 2 horse, 28 frs. St Beatenberg (3760 ft. ) is a well frequented health resort on the Sundffraben, overlooking Lake Thun and commanding fine views of the Bernese Alps. Near the Kurhaus Muller a path descends in 1J hrs. to the Bcateuliohlo, or Cave of St Beatus. It can also be reached from Merlingen (p. 54), 4 m., or from Interlaken, 5 m. These two paths fatiguing. Row-boat from Xeuliaus prefer- able. The cave can be reached in 15 min. from the shore. Ac- cording to tradition, this cave was the abode of St Beatus, a British missionary who converted the inhabitants of this district to Christianity. On taking posses- sion of the cave he found it the lair of a dragon, whose residence there was made so uncomfortable by the devotions of the saint that it left in haste. When St Beatus wished to cross the lake, he simply placed his cloak on the water and was wafted over on it. He died in the 2nd centy. at the age of 90. A small stream issues from the cave. Occasionally this stream suddenly rises and fills it, and then rushes out with noise like thunder. Be- low the cave is a pretty cascade. The Abciidberg (3750ft., Hot. Bellevue). Bridle path in 2 hrs. Horse, 10 frs. Fine view of Lake Thun. The Saxetentlial is a pretty valley, 8 m. long, diverging to the right from the Lutschinenthal at Mulinen. Near the head of the valley is the village of Saxe- lenthal, 1 m. from which are the picturesque cascades of Weiss- bach and Oiirben. No hotel accommodation. A delightful excursion by steamer on the Lake of Brienz is to the ;'issbark (p. 59). ROUTE XXXI. LUCERNE TO BRIENZ AND MEYRINGEN BY THE BRUNIG PASS; AND TO INTER- LAKEN BY THE LAKE OF BRIENZ. Steamboat to Alpuach-Gestadt 3 times daily in 1J hrs. (11 m.). Diligence to Brienz in connection with the steamers, 25 m., in 6 hrs. ; and to Jleyringen, 24 m., once daily, in 6 hrs. Steamer from Brienz to Interlaken on arrival of diligence. Fares Lucerne to Brienz and Meyringen, 10.90 frs.; coupe, 12.90 frs. To Interlaken, 13.85 frs. ; coupe?, 16.40 frs. Places in the coupe" or banquette should be secured well beforehand. In fine weather the banquette is the pleasantest. One horse carriage from Alp- nach-Gestadt to Brienz, 25 frs. ; 2 horse, 40 frs. Leaving Lucerne, the steamer For ascent of Mt. Pilatus see p. rounds the promontory of Spis- 44. We then cross over to senegg to Hergiswyl (Rossli, Sdiiisstail (Hotel Winkelried). plain), at the base of Mt. Pilatus. On the point to the left of the 66 Route S\. LUCERNE TO BRIENZ. village is an old square watch tower, erected in 1306. From Stansstad the ascent of the Biirgenstocfc is made, 1 horse carriage, 6 frs. ; 2 horse, 12 frs. Near the summit, commanding a magnificent view, is the fine HOTEL BURGEXSTOCK, comfort- able and moderate charges. The hotel can be seen from the steamer. Two m. inland is STANS (see p. 67). At Stansstad the lake is narrowed by an em- bankment to a space of a few yards, crossed by a bridge through which the steamer enters the Lake of Alpnach. At Alpiiach-Gestnd (Hotel Pilatus) we find the diligences in waiting. One and a half miles from the landing is the village of Alpiiaclt (Krone). The church at Alpnach was erected from the proceeds obtained from cutting down the pine forests lining the sides of Pilatus. To bring the logs down to the lake, an im- mense wooden slide 8 miles long was constructed. In its building, the wood of over 30,000 trees was used. Its summit was 2700 ft. above the sea, and immense logs only took 6 minutes to slide down the whole distance to the lake. Sariicn (4^ m., Obwaldner Hof). The old Rathhaus con- tains portraits of the magistrates of Obwalden, from 1381 to 1824 ; a portrait of St Nicholas von der Flue, see below ; a plan in relief of Unterwalden ; and the famous Weisses Btich or " White Book," 1467, which contains the earliest history of the Swiss con- federation and the story of William Tell. The bridge cross- ing the river is 300 years old. To the east of Sarnen is the romantic MELCHTHAL, 12 miles in length. In the valley 3 miles from Sarnen is the Ranft, a gorge in the rock where Xicolas von der Flue, or "Nicolas of the Rock," Swiss patriot, after fighting many years for his country, re- tired and became'a hermit (p. 67). Tradition says ho lived there without food, except when ho partook of the sacrament, for 19 years. After his death he was canonized. Leaving Sarnen we travel along the bank of the Sarner See, 4 miles long. At Saohseln, in the church built 1663, are the bones of St Nicholas, decorated with military orders, and which are exhibited to visitors. At Ciswyl (Krone) we pass on the left the ruins of the old chateau of the Rudenz family, and commence the ascent of the I\':ii.--ii- Stu/i/, and at Burylen reach the LAKE OF LUNGERN. This lake was drained of more than half its area into the Sarner See by a tunnel, the entrance of which can be seen from the road. Before us the three peaks of the Wetterhorn are visible, and to the right the bare summit of the Giswylerstock. We now descend to Lnngcrii (Lowe, comfortable Inn), prettily situated in a deep basin, hemmed in with precipitous rocks. The diligence stops here 1 hour. Table d'h6te at the Lowe. Tra- vellers for Meyringen here change their diligence. Leaving Lungern we commence the ascent of the Britnig Pass, (3600 ft.), the road winding in zig-zag curves through a dense forest. About f of a mile beyond the summit of the pass the road to Meyringen turns off. In the pass is the Hotel Brunig, plain. but comfortable. The descent of the pass has been cut for most of the way out of the face of the rock which in some places overhangs the road. Pedestrians will find a path near the village of Briinigen. by takins? which thov can avoid Route 32. INTERLAKEN TO LAUTERBRUNNEN. Iv the twistings of the road. The scenery opened up as we descend is very fine. Far below us is the level valley of Meyringen, with Meyringen at its head. In the distance is seen to the south the fall of Reichenbach (p. 64), and opposite is that of Oltschibach. Brlenz (Bar), on the lake of Brienz, is the steamer landing for the Giessbach and Interlaken. Tourists are here warned against the interested advice of drivers over the Brilnig to press on to Interlaken without spending the night at Giessbach. The illumi- nation of the Falls is a sight the traveller should by no means miss seeing. The lake of Brienz is 8| m. long by H broad and from 500 to 850 feet deep. The Cilessbach. (HOTEL GIESSBACH, kept by the Hauser Bros., one of the best hotels in Switzerland. Most comfortable, and moderate charges. The hotel is lighted by electricity. Attached to the hotel is a fine Pension, and a Hydropathic Establishment.) Only a small portion of the loner fall is visible from the lake. Giessbach is one of the loveliest spots in Switzer- land, and not only a charming place for a short visit, but also for a prolonged stay. The hotel is reached from the landing by an ingenious tramway worked by water power. The former hotel was burnt down in 1883, but a finer building has been erected in its place. The Terrace on which the hotel stands commands a complete view of the Falls, as well as a charming look-out over the lake. The falls consist of seven cascades, the highest of which is 1148 ft. above the lake. Three bridges affording splendid views of the falls cross at different heights, the centre one passing under one of the cascades. The falls are illuminated nightly at 9.30 P.M. by electricity and coloured lights, and the effect is magical. Paths have been cut all through the woods and to the summits of the surrounding hills, affording delightful walks. A pleasant 20 min. stroll is to the summit of the Banft, which commands a fine view of the Lakes of Brienz and Thun. At Bonigen, the landing at the foot of the lake, we take the train, 1'2 min., to Interlaken (see p. 55). EOUTE XXXII. INTERLAKEN TO LAUTERBRUNNEN. Diligence twice daily in 1{ hrs. ; Fare, 2.75 c. Carriage, 1 horse, 9 frs. ; 2 horses, 17 frs; there and back, with 2 hrs.' wait, 11 frs. and 20 frs.; longer wait, 15 frs. and 30 frs. The following excursions to Lauterbrunnen, Murren, and Grindelwald are among the most beautiful and interesting in Switzerland, and the visitor to Interlaken should by all means spend at least two days making them, even though he may have to give up some other portion of his contemplated trip. Crossing the level plain the valley soon begins to open up before us. To the right, after passing the Rugen Park (p. 55), at the foot of the Abdenberg, are seen the ruins of the old Castle 60 Route 33. -LAUTERBRUNNEN TO MURREN. of Unspunnen, the fortress of Berthold, the founder of Berne. Is is also reputed to have been the residence of Manfred. At Cisteig the ascent of the Schynige Platte begins (see p. 56). We now ascend the Gorge of the Liitschine, and the lofty peaks of the Monch and Eiger appear to the left of the Jungfrau. On the right we pass the JBosestein, a rock on which is an inscription, " Here was the noble Von Ro- thenfiue slain by his own brother. The unnatural murderer, over- come with remorse and despair, brought to a close in a far off land his once mighty race." At Zweilutschinen (5| m.) the road divides, that to the left following the Black Liitschine to Grindelwald (see page 62), and that to the right going along the valley of the White Liitschine to Lauterbrunnen. Above, to the right, is the frowning rock of Eisenfiuh which can be ascended in 1 hr. Path to the right. From ZweilUtschinen, Miirren can be reached in 3^ hrs. by the Eisen- fluh. The road affords mag- nificent views. Guide, 7 frs., desirable. Lnuterbrnniien ('2615 ft.), or "Nothing but springs." (HOT. STAUBBACH, opposite the falls ; HOT. STEINBOCK. ) On the right is the Stanbbach or cht-st stream, which falls 980 ft. from a pro- jecting rock. The fall, which is small in volume, is swayed to and fro by the wind, and almost lost in feathery spray. It should be seen in the light of the morn- ing sun, when it glitters like a veil of finest silvery gauze. The best view is from the flag near the hotel Staubbach. Half an hour's walk up the valley on the left is the Trttiu- inelbacli, a beautiful waterfall hid in a rift in the rocky side of the Jungfrau, (Adm. 50 c.) A flag shows the entrance to the fall. ROUTE XXXIII. LAUTERBRUNNEN TO MURREN AND THE SCHMADRIBACH. Murren can be reached from Lauterbrunnen either by a bridle-path leading up the mountain to the right (2 hrs.)i or by carriage-road, 3 miles to Stechelberg, and thence by foot-path (not accessible by horse), up the Sefinen-Thal in 2 hrs. Pedestrians are strongly recommended to ascend to Murren by the first way, and return by the latter. The whole excursion takes 5-6 hrs. To visit the Schmadribach takes 3-4 hrs. more. The whole excursion can be made in one day by good walkers. Horse to Mttrren and back, 12 frs. Chair, 4 porters necessary, 24 frs. If carriages be taken from Interlaken, the horses can be ridden to Murren and back for 5 frs. each. For ladies, chairs are much to be preferred to horseback. The path to Miirren leaves the road near the Steinbock Hotel, and winds steeply up the hill through the wood. In about an hour the Staubbach is crossed. (Small inn. ) Half-an-hour after- wards a saw-mill is passed, and we emerge from the wood, the path becoming more level. The view from here, and from the diff erent openings in the wood as we ascend, of the Jungfrau, Route 3S.- -LAUTERBRUNNEN TO MURREN. Gl Silberhorn, Eiger, Monch, with the rugged Schwartz Monch in the foreground, is sublime and magnificent beyond all descrip- tion. Murren (5348 ft., GRAND HOTEL DE MURREN, fine large hotel ; HOTEL DBS ALPES ; both hotels command magnificent views), is a small Alpine village, situated on the brow of the precipitous cliffs descending into the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Before us to the extreme L. is the Wengern, Alp, up which we see the zig-zag path leading to Grindelwald, and near the summit, the Hotel Jungjrau. Beyond is the Wetterkorn (12,170 ft.), and nearer, the slopes of the Junafrau (13,670 ft.), with its two glaciers. The summit of the Jungfrau is just hid by the dazzling Silberhorn (12,160 ft.). Prominent to the R. are the Ebmfiuh (13,100ft.), Mittaghorn, Grosshorn (12,300 ft.), and Breithorn, and lower down we see in the distance the fall of Schmadribach. A still more extensive view may be had from the ALLMENDHUBEL, f hour's walk above. From Miirren the ascent of the Srb.il thorn (9748 ft.) is made in 4 hrs. ; guide, 7 frs. The ascent is quite easy, and the view of the Bernese Alps from the summit is the finest in Switz- erland. On the way is a tablet to the memory of Mrs Arbuthuot, who was killed here by lightning in 1865, while on her wedding tour. The first three fourths of the distance can be made on horseback. Leaving Miirren to descend on the other side (time to Stechel- berg, 1 hrs. ; Stechelberg to Miirren, 1 hr.), we follow a path crossing the little Murrenbach, down to the hamlet of Gimmtl- icald, and then descend into the Sefi>ie>i-Thal. Crossing the bridge over the Hitschine, the path ascends till we come to an amphi- theatre worn away in the side of the mountain. Here facing us are the beautiful Falls of st-liiicii. A short distance beyond, the path divides, that to the E. lead- ing to Trachsellauen, and the Falls of tJte Sckmadribach, and that to the L. descends to Stechelberg. [Following the path to the R, , 50 min. brings us to Trach- M Ham n (Hot. Schmadribach. An hour from here we come in sight, at the Lager Sennhutte, of the Fall of Sehmadrlbach, a magnificent cascade, 200 ft. in height, issuing from the Breit- horn Glacier. The Obere Steinberg (5794 ft.), reached in If hrs. from Trachsellauen, commands a mag nificent view of the mountains and glaciers at the head of the valley. Guide desirable, 1A frs. Returning, a path leads down from Trachsellauen to Stechel- berg in about an hour. ] At Stechelberg, small Inn, we come upon the carriage road to Lauterbrunnen. About half way we pass the Falls of Triiiiiuu'l- bach (see p. 60). 62 RouteZLLAUTERBRUNNEN TO GRINLELWALD. ROUTE XXXIV. LAUTERBRUNNEN TO GRINDELWALD, OVER THE WENGERN ALP ; OR BY CARRIAGE ROAD, VIA ZWEILUTCHSINEN. 1- Over the Wengern Alp, 6 hrs., horse, 20 frs. To the Wengern Alp, 12 frs. To the Little Scheideck, 14 frs. Reverse way, Grindelwald to the Little Scheideck, 12 frs. Guide unnecessary. It is better to use the horse for the ascent only either way. The descent is easier to walk than ride. Crossing the Lutschine near the Hotel Staubbach, and turning to the L. we find a little path going in zig-zags steeply up the hill In f hrs. we reach a pavilion (small Inn), and looking down have a beautiful view of the valley ; J hr. farther on the path divides, R. leading to the Pens. Wengern. Keeping to the L. we pass the Pens. Mittaghorn and Pens. Al- penrose, and then, near the rugged Tschuggen, passing through a wood, we cross the grassy slopes of the Wcngern Alp to the HOTEL JUNGFRAU (comfortable). Here we have the finest view of Juiigfrau (13,670ft.). In sum- mer between 11 and 2 o'clock, the AVALANCHES may be seen and heard as they thunder down the precipitous side of the mountain into the Tr&mleten Thai below. About 1 hr. farther on we come to the top of the pass at the Little Scheideck (Hotel Bellevw), from which we have a magnificent view of the valley of Grindelwald and its surrounding glacier fields. Grlndelwald (see below). 2. By carriage road. We return on our way as far as Zweiliitschinen (see page 60), and then follow up the valley of the Black Lutschine. On our left we pass an immense block of stone which fell down from the cliff above in 1881, destroying the chalet, the ruins of which are seen alongside. As the road begins to ascend, we see the sharp peak of the Sckreckhoi-n, and then the Eiger and Jungfrau to the right, and the Wetterliorn to the left. Grindelald(346Sft., HOTKL DE L'OuRS, best, large, and com- fortable ; Hotel du Grand Eiger ; Hotel du Glacier; Hotel de Burgener). Grindelwald, beauti- fully situated at the base of the Eiger, Mettenberg, and Wetter- horn, derives its principal interest from its two glaciers. The lower Glacier (horse 3 frs., guide 3 frs., unnecessary), lying between the Eiger and the Mettenberg, a spur of the Schreck- horn, is the most accessible. Path easy to follow. Time, 1 hr. An Ice grotto (adm. 50 c. ) has been cut in the glacier. Looking up to the right, far above, we see a hole in the precipitous face of the Eiger. Through it, at noon, twice a year (Jan. and Nov. ) the sun shines on the church at Grindelwald. The local legend is that, once upon a time, a lake filled the basin now occupied by the upper portion of the glacier, and as its outlet into the valley was very narrow it constantly overflowed, causing disastrous inundations. The inhabitants of Grindelwald invoked their patron saint St Martin, who put his back against the Mettenberg and his staff against the Eiger, and then gave a mighty heave and 'orced the mountains apart, Route ZL LAUTERBRUNNEN TO GRINDELWALD. 63 and driving his stick through the Eiger. From the grotto a short path of 50 yards leads to the edge of the Gorge of the I ii(s ( liiiic, 890 feet deep. If large stones are thrown into the gorge they produce a noise like a cannon shot on reaching the bottom. The changes in this glacier have been very remark- able. 300 years ago an easy path led through its present bed into the Valais beyond. In the 17th century the glacier increased enormously, and rushing down into the Grindelwald Valley carried away many dwellings and the church of St Petronella, the bell of which, cast in 1044, is still hung in the belfry of the church in Grindelwald. Of late years the glacier has receded, leaving bare the gorge of the Lutschine. Its former extent can be traced by the barren district it laid waste. Now descending, and taking the path into the valley, to the left we reach the bottom of the Gorge (adm. 50 c. ). On its precipitous sides are seen sections of many of the glacier mills formed by loose stones whirling round in the melting ice. In the gorge a small cannon (50 c. an explosion) is fired off, producing an echo of thunder. From the gorge we return to Grindelwald in an hour. The Eisnicer, or sea of ice on the lower glacier, is a most interesting excursion. Guide to Baregg and on to the Eismeer, 7 frs. If the glacier is crossed to Ziisenberg, 10 frs. Horse to Baregg, 10 frs. Uncomfortable ride. Chaise -a-porteurs much preferable. A path ascends to the left of the glacier under the precipices of the Mettenburg to Biireyg (5410 ft. ) in 2 hrs. , where there is a small Inn with beds. From Baregg a flight of steps (1 fr. ) descends on to the glacier. The Eismeer can be crossed to Ziisenlerg (6050 ft. ), a little green spot on which is a chalet amid a wilderness of ice, snow, and barren rocks. The passage of the Eismeer is perfectly safe with a guide, but should not be attempted without. Guide to Baregg not necessary. Guides can generally be had at Baregg for crossing the glacier. The whole excursion can be made from Grindelwald in 5 hrs. The Upper Glacier (1^ hrs., horse, 8 frs. ) is reached by a rather fatiguing path. An artificial ice grotto has been made here. The path to the Great Scheideck is followed for 1 hour to the Hotel Wetterhorn. A path then leads to the right across the Lutschine and over the moraine to the glacier in \ hr. ASCENT OP THE FAULHORN. The summit of the Faulhorn made from the Schynige Platte (8805 ft.) commands one of the finest views of the Bernese Alps. Guide from Grindelwald, 10 frs. ; horse, 17 frs. ; chairs, 6 frs. each porter, 3 are necessary. The as- (see p. 56). Horse from Inter- laken, 35 frs., or return by Grindelwald, 45 frs. An ascent in 6 hours can also be made from the Giessbach (see p. 59). cent from Grindelwalo" takes 4| Guide necessary, 6 frs. There hrs. , descent, 3 hrs. Descent to is a comfortable INN on tho the Great Scheideck (see p. 64), summit. 3 hrs. The ascent can also be . MEYR1NGEN TO QRINDELWALD. EOUTE XXXV. MEYRINGEN TO GRINDELWALD BY THE GREAT SCHEIDECK. 20 miles. Time about 7 hrs. Horse, 25 frs. Guide (unnecessary), 12 frs. ; including ascent of the Faulhorn, 21 frs. There is a bridle-path all the way. Mcyringen (HOTEL DTJ SAU- VAGE, large and comfortable, nice garden ; HOTEL REICHENBACH, excellent ; Krone). Eng. Ch. Ser in the Hotel du Sauvage. Meyrin- gen is beautifully situated in the Valley of Hasli, and is becoming a very favourite resort. The climate is delightful, and lovely views extend in every direction. The pretty FALL OF ALPBACH is illuminated nightly by the proprietor of the Hotel du Sauvage. From Meyringen we ascend to the HOTEL REICHENBACH. From the hotel a path leads in J hr. to the lower Falls of Rcichenbacb, which are illumi- nated nightly. The Falls of Reichenbach are- a series of beau- tiful cascades 2000 ft. in height, unsurpassed by any in Switzer- land. A belvedere (50 c.) com- mands a magnificent view of the Upper Falls. The Central Fall. is best viewed from a belvedere lower down (25 c.). We next reach the little inn Znr Ztcirgi, where a path leads to the R. towards a narrow gorge (25 c.), in which the Reichenbach is pre- cipitated into a rocky basin. Now continuing to ascend be- side the torrent of the Reichen- bach we reach in 1J hours the Baths of Rosenlaui (4363 ft., Inn). Beyond the baths a path to the L. leads in 2 hrs. to the GLACIER OF ROSEXLAUI, so called from the beauty of its colouring. The path is rough and fatigu- ing. In about 3 hours more we ascend to the CJreat Scheitlerk (6434 ft., Steinbeck Inn), before reaching which we pass over a narrow ridge of rock only a few yards wide, though over a mile long. From the Great Scheideck we have a lovely view of the valley of Grindelwald and its surrounding heights. We now descend in about 2^ hours to Grindelwald, passing on our left the precipices of the Wetterhorn (12,170 ft.), overhang- ing our way, from which, in four directions, avalanches fall in spring and early summer; and also on the left the Upper Glacier (see page 63). Grindelwald (see p. 62). M. MEYRINGEN TO THE GRIMSEL HOSPICE. 65 KOUTE XXXVI. THE RHONE GLACIER AND GRIMSEL HOSPICE TO MEYRINGEN. Time from the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice, 1J hrs. Grimsel Hospice to Im Hof, about 5j-6 hrs. Diligence from Im Hof to Meyringen, 3 m.,in 1 hr., 1 fr. Carriage from Innere Urweid to Meyringen, 6J m., one horse 10 frs., two horse 15 frs. Horse from the Rhone Glacier to Grimsel, 6 frs. ; to Grimsel Hospice, 10 frs.; to Handeck, 15 frs.; to Meyringen, 30 frs. Diligence twice daily in summer from the Rhone Glacier to Andermatt and Gceschenen. Reverse way, diligence twice daily to the Rhone Glacier from Goeschenen and Andermatt. This route is better taken in the way de- scribed below instead of the reverse direction, as the path is downhill, with the exception of the ascent from Im Hof, 3j m. From the Rhone Cilacicr (see page 77) a bridle path leads over the summit of the pass in 1^ hrs. , passing the Alaiemcand, a grassy slope covered with Alpine flowers. The <.riuiM-I Hospice (good Inn) was formerly a refuge for travellers crossing the pass. Situated more than 6000 ft. above the sea, its surroundings are most wild and dreary. On all sides it is hemmed in with bleak and barren rocks in the midst of ice and snow. The only sign of green is a little poor pasturage beyond the small lake, where the cows of the hospice graze for a month or two in summer. The high peak to the W. , seen from the Hospice, is the A gassiz Horn (13,120 ft). By mounting the Nollen, a rocky eminence near by, the peak of the Finsteraar- horn (14,026 ft.) comes in sight. The Aare rises in the two large Ober and Unter Aare Glaciers seen to the W. The latter, about 8 m. long, and from 1 to 2 m. wide, is the easiest of access. A mule path leads to the base in 1 hrs. The surface of the glacier is smooth and free from crevasses, and can easily be crossed with a guide. The Ober Aare glacier is reached in 1\ hrs. more. Its surface is broken with tremendous crevasses. From the observations of Professors Agassiz and Hugi, the forward motion of these glaciers has been proved to be about 8 to 9 inches per day. The KLEINE SEIDELHORN (9057 ft. ) can be ascended without difficulty from the Grimsel in 2J hrs. Guide necessary, 4 frs. The view embraces the surrounding lofty peaks of the Finsteraarhorn (14,026 ft.), Schreckhoru (13,386 ft.), Fiescherkorn (12,600 ft.), the Galemtock (\ 1,800 ft., which gives birth to the Rhone Glacier), the range of the Upper Valais, and in a clear day the distant Matterhorn (14,705 ft.) and Weiss- horn (14,803 ft.). The appear- ance of the Aare Glaciers from this point is also very fine. This ascent is strongly recommended, even for ladies. Beyond the Grimsel the scenery continues very bleak and wild, only two habitations being passed between the Hospice and Han- deck (1J hrs. ). A short distance before arriving at Handeck the path crosses the Hose Seite, a smooth rounded slope of granite, on the surface of which we see the lines and furrows worn by the glacier which formerly covered it. On the rock is an autograph cut by Prof. Agassiz. On the 66 Route Si. LUCERNE TO ENGELBERG. other side of the valley is the little fall of the Gelmerbach. About 1 m. beyond Handcck (Inn) a path leads by a chalet to the R. on to a platform (50 c. ), from which we see the Fall of Handeck on the Aare. Next to the Falls of the Rhine this fall is the finest in Switzerland, both in its rush and volume of water, and the weird and wild solitude of its surround- ings. The fall descends over 200 ft. in an almost unbroken sheet of water, which is lost in spray in the abyss into which it falls. Its beauty is greatly en- hanced by the stream of the Erlenbach throwing its waters into it at right angles, both cas- cades joining into one before they disappear in the cloud of spray at the foot. An almost finer view of the falls can be had from a rocky ledge (50 c.), 5 rain, from the inp, A small bridge here crosses above the fall, only a few feet from the water. Beyond the falls we descend through a wild and narrow val- ley, its scarred and rugged sides showing the effects of many a flood and avalanche, to Guttan- nen (1 hrs, 3840 ft. Hot.Biir), lying in a hollow surrounded by jagged rocks and precipitous cliff s. From Guttannen we descend to I micro 1'rweid (1 hr. , 1 '/<), where the bridle-path ends. From Innere Urweid a carriage roads descends to Iin Hof (3 m. , Hotel 1m Hof), where the routes to ngleb.erg by the Joch Pass (p. 68) and to Wasen over the Susten (p. 69) diverge. [From Im Hof a glacier ex- cursion can be made up the UR- BACHTAL. A path ascends in 4 hrs. to the Alp txhriUten (4940 ft., small Inn), and in 1 hr. more to the Matten Alp (6102 ft.), at the base of the Ciaiili Glacier. The walk may be con- tinued to the Grimsel by ascend- ing to the Urnenalp (7213 ft., small Inn), and thence over the Gauli Glacier. Guide required. The walk is fatiguing, but the scenery is magnificent. ] From Im Hof the road ascends to Kirchel (2 m. ). At the summit is a finger-post showing the path to the FISSTERAAR SCHLUCHT (40 mm. there and back), a narrow chasm worn in the rock by the River Aare, with perpendicular cuffs 300 ft. in height. In another mile we de- scend to Meyringcn, see* page 64. EOUTE XXXVII. LUCERNE TO ENGELBERG AND ALTOEF BY THE SURENEN. 16 frs.; 2 horse, 25 frs. It is as well tor walkers to dismiss the carriage at Grafenort (9 m.), as the road thence to Engelberg is so steep, they can walk quite as fast. 1 horse carriage to Grafenort, 10 frs.; 2 horse. 17 frs. Engelberg can also be reached from the Lake of Lucerne, from BeetemrUA (p. 44) or Buochs (p. 44). Post omnibus from Beckenried to Stuns (see below), daily, in 1 hr.. from Bvocfis in hr. 1 horse carnage from Beckenried to Engelberg, 18 frs.; 2 horse, 30 frs. From Buochs, 15 frs. Routed. LUCERNE TO ENGELBERG. (17 and 25 frs. These latter routes to Engelberg are the most convenient for tourists coming from the east end of the lake. From Engelberg to Altorf over the Surenen Pass, steep bridle-path, 8 hrs. Guide desirable in doubtful weather, 12-14 frs. Two miles from Stansstadt is Stans (Engel, Krone), prettily situated amid large orchards, at the entrance of the Engelberg valley, through which it receives in Nov., Dec., and Jan. but one hour of sunshine daily. Beside the church is a handsome monu- ment to WlNKELKIED who sacrificed his life at Sempach (p. 41). On the fountain in the Market Place is also a bust of the patriot. His house, of which only a portion of the original building remains, is shown. In the Arsenal is his coat of mail. In the RVTHHAUS are portraits of the Mayors of Stans from 1521, and a picture by the blind artist Wiirsch who perished in the massacre of 1798. Here Nicholas von der Fluh (p. 58) reconciled the confederates in 1481. In the CHURCH are painted figures of him and his grandson. On the wall of a vine house in the churchyard is a tablet to the me- mory of 386 of the inhabitants of the half canton of Nidwalden, who were cruelly massacred by the French republican army in 1798. Six hundred houses round Stans were burnt, and the bodies of 102 women and 25 children were found among the dead. Sixty -three persons who were at- tending mass in the church were slain round the altar. In the sac- risty is shown the bullet with which the priest was killed. From Stans the Stanserhorn (6231 ft. ) can be ascended in 3 hrs., and the Buoc/iser Horn (5934 ft. ) in 3 hrs. Near the summit of the Stanser- horn is the Kurhaus Wiesenberg. Leaving Stans we pass up the valley of the A a, between the Stanserhorn on the R., and the Buochser Horn on the L. , and at the head of the valley we see the snowy peak of TMis. Near the hamlet of Thalwyl we cross the river and see high above us to L. the Kurhaus zum Engel, a health resort. In the little church at WOLFENSCHIESSEX (6 m.) are the sword, rosary, and tomb of the hermit Scheubert, son-in-law of Nicholas von der Fluh (p. 58), who lived for many years in a wood near by. The little hermitage, brought from the wood, is beside the church. From GRAFENORT the road ascends steeply for 3^ miles, when a beautiful view of the Engelberger Thai breaks upon us. To the left rise the icy slopes of TMis (10,630 ft.), and the Great and Little Spannort (10,520 ft.), and to the right the Engelberg Rothstock (9250 ft. ), and the Un- Rothstock (9620 ft.). Two miles farther we reach Engclberg(HOT. SONNENBERS, beautifully situated, first class and comfortable ; HOT. ZUM TlTLlS, lovely view, also first class ; Pens Midler, comfortable ; Engel, Hot. Engelberg). Eng. Ch. Ser. in the Hot. zum Titlis. Engelberg (3315 ft.), delight- fully situated, and sheltered from the cold north winds, is a frequented health resort on ac- count of its fine air and whey cure. The BENEDICTINE ABBEY was built in 1729 on the site of an older building, founded in 1120 and destroyed thrice by lire. The abbey was named at the time of its foundation by Pope Calixtus II., Mons Angel- orum, from a legend that the site was miraculously chosen by angels. Since that time it has always remained under tlje di- rect control of the Popes. In the church are several paintinga Rovte W.M EYEING EN TO ENGELBERG. by Swiss artists. The fine library contains many early Swiss prints and some fine missals. Admis- sion to the abbey on presentation of visiting card to the abbot. Pleasant excursions can be made, following the path to the Surenen Pass, to the water- fall of TATSHBACH (1J hrs., horse, 4 frs.). To the HOR- BISTHAL (1 hrs., horse, 5 frs.), in which is curious rocky amphi- theatre called End der Welt, or "end of the world." To the OBERSCHWAND (4300 ft., Inn, 1^ m., horse, 5 frs.), fine view of the valley. To the WANGALP (4113 ft., 1 hr.), fine view of the Engelberger-Roth- stock and Uri-Rothstock. To the FURRENALP (6070 ft. , 2 hrs. ), grand view of Titlis. For the higher ascents of Titlis, Engel- berger - Rothstock, Uri - RothstocJc, and the Spannort, guides are necessary, and are all more or less trying. For route from Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meyringen, see below. Leaving Engelberg the bridle- path passes the Cascade of TcitscKbach (1 hrs.), and the Herrenruti, the dairy farm of the monastery. From here in 3^ hrs. we ascend to the summit of the SH reii en Pass (7560 ft.), the latter portion of the path being over snow that does not melt till July. During the ascent we have magnificent views of all the surrounding lofty peaks and glaciers. The summit of the Pass, called the Surenen Eck, is a narrow rocky ridge only 5 ft. wide. The descent to Altorf (3 hrs.) is very steep, and should not be attempted without a guide. [One and three quarter hrs. be- fore reaching Altorf the path divides, the right leading in 2 hrs. past the pretty cascade of Waldnachtbach to ERSTFELD, on the St Gotthard line (see p. 72).] Altorf, see p. 71. EOTJTE XXXVIII. MEYRINGEN TO ENGELBERG OVER THE JOCH PASS. Carriage road to Imhof, 1J hrs. From Imhof, bridle-path, in 8 hrs. Horse, 30 frs.; guide, 14 frs. (not necessary). Tourists wishing to break the journey can sleep at the Inn (comfortable) on the Engstlen-Alp. From Meyringen to Imhof, see p. 65. Leaving Imhof we follow the road to Susten as far as Wyler (2 m.), where the bridle-path branches off to the L. Another path also leads up from the Susten road, branching off at Miihlethal, 25 min. farther on, and joining the first path at the Gentelalp. This path is hr longer. From Wyler we ascend in 1 hr. to the hamlet of Lauenen (3800 ft.), and reach the Gentelalp. The path now follows the Gentel- bach for \ m. to where the path from Miihlethal crosses the stream and joins in (Auberge). One and a quarter hrs. more, still following the Gentelbach, brings us to the hamlet of Schivarzwaldhiitten (Au- berge). We now skirt on the R. the precipices of the Gadmer- Rovle^Q. MEYRINGEN TO WASEN. Piuh, from which fall a number of small cascades. Passing the pretty waterfall of the Gentel- bach, now called the Engstleiibach, we cross the stream and reach the Eugstlcn- Alp (6030 ft. ), 4 hrs. from Imhof , where is the com- fortable ENGSTLEN INN, beauti- fully situated in a green pasture amid pine woods. The Wunder- brunnen, near the Inn, is an in- termittent spring, supplied by the melting snows, which is full up to early afternoon and then entirely disappears. Leaving the Alp we pass the Engstlen-See, 1^ m. long (excellent trout fishing), and reach in ITJ hrs. the sumfnit of the Jocli Pass (7240 ft.). The path now de- scends in hr. to the Im zum Alpenclub, and in 1 J hrs. more we reach Eiigelbcrg (see p. 67). ROUTE XXXIX. MEYRlNGEtf TO WASEN OVER THE SUSTEN PASS. Diligence from Meyringen to Imliof (3 J m.), 1 fr. From Imhof, rough carriage road to Stein, 5 hrs. Thence Bridle-Patll to Waseii in 5 hrs. Carriages not used. Horse, 35 frs. Guide unnecessary, as attendant comes with the horse. This road was made in 1811, at the time that the Valais was under French government, to enable the inhabitants of the Canton Berne to send their produce into Italy by the St Gotthard, without paying the French custom dues then levied on the Simplon. When the Valais was restored to Switzerland the road was no longer used, and now has fallen out of repair. From Meyringen to Imhof , 1 hr. , see p. 65. Passing Miihles- talden (\\ hrs. from Imhof) the Triftt/uil opens to the R., up which we catch a glimpse of the Trifft Glacier. Skirting the frown- ing precipices of the Gadmer- Flah we reach Gndmcn (3950 ft., Inn, 3 hrs.), in a fertile little valley. Passing the hamlet of Obermatt, the path ascends by zigzags through a wood, and then over wild and barren rocks with a deep ravine below, to Stein (6122 ft., Inn, 5 hrs.), at the base of the immense STEIN GLACIER. Behind the Inn is a curious cascade falling from an apparently solitary rock. The path now ascends, affording fine views of the glacier on the K. to the summit of the pass at Susten Schcideck (7420 ft., 6J hrs. ). We now descend in wind- ings, passing on the R. the Kalcltthal, a wild gorge into which avalanches frequently fall from the heights above, to .11 eicn, 9 hrs. (Inn. ) Continuing our descent we cross the St Gotthard Railway and reach Wascii, 10 hrs. (see p. 73). 70 Route to. LUCERNE TO CHIASSO. EOUTE XL. LUCERNE TO CHIASSO BY THE ST GOTTHAED RAILWAY. Railway, 144 m. Express, 7J hrs. Stopping trains, 9$ hrs. Fares 30.75 c., 21.50 c., 15 40 c. To Bellinzona, 109 m., of hrs. and 7 hrs. Fares 24.fiO c., 17.20 c., 12.30 c. To Lvgatio, 128 m., 6f hrs. and 8 hrs. Fares 29.30 c., 20.50 c., 14.65 c. To Milan, 176 m., Sf hrs. and 12| hrs. Fares 36.65 c., 25.25 c., 18.5 c. The line from Zurich joins In at Rotfikrevtz. No 3rd class on the Express trains. Best views on the right as far as the viaduct over the Reuss beyond Amsteg, then on the left to the tunnel, and then on the right. The St Gotthard Line, the greatest feat in railway engineering yet accom- plished, was opened on 22nd May 1882, having taken ten years to com- plete. The average cost per mile was 63,360, the total cost amounting to 9,560,000. To commence the work Italy contributed a subsidy of 1,800,000; Germany, 800,000; and Switzerland, 800,000. These sub- sidies were afterwards raised to 5,000,000, the balance being provided by shares and debentures. The highest point on the line is in the great tunnel 3787 ft., 3150 ft. lower than the summit of the pass, and 6076 ft. below the Kastelhorn under which it passes. At several portions of the line where the gradient was too steep to admit of the laying of the rails, the higher level is reached by circular ascending tunnels bored into the moun- tain side, the exit being in some cases almost directly above the entrance. There are altogether 56 tunnels on the line. The great Tunnel, the longest in the world, is 9J m. long, If m. longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The boring, which took 7 years, was earned on simultaneously from either end, from 2500 to 3000 men being kept con- stantly at work. The rock is chiefly hard granite, and had to be pierced by drills, pointed with diamonds, worked by compressed air. These drills, 26 in number, bored holes 4 feet in length which were filled with dynamite. Each explosion brought down about 100 cubic feet of rock. The com- pressed air was furnished by water power from the Keuss and Tincio, and ' conducted through pipes to the drills. During the boring seventy of the workmen lost their lives. The work was commenced in June 1872, and on the 29th February 1880, the fifth Sunday of the month, the wall dividing the two galleries, which met to almost an inch, was finally pierced. The tunnel is lined throughout with solid masonry and laid with a double line of rails. A current of fresh air, which a short distance from the entrances is of a uniform temperature of 70, is kept constantly passing through. The total cost of the tunnel was over 2J millions sterling. Lights at intervals of 1100 yds. are always kept burning. The contractor, Mons. Louis Favre, died suddenly in the tunnel of apoplexy in July 1879, only eight months before the completion of his gigantic undertaking. The trains take 20 min. in passing through the tunnel. The route over the St Gotthard the steamer on the lake of is, with perhaps the one excep- Lucerne, and join the railway at tion of the railway over the Fluehn. See route 27. Semmering, in Austria, the most From I/ncerne to Rothkreutx picturesque line in Europe, and (11 m.), see p. 50. Here the if possible should certainly be line from Aarau (p. 28) and travelled over by daylight. Zurich (p. 50) joins in. As we Tourists from Lucerne who are approach Immensee we come in not pressed for time should take sight of LAKE Zro (p. 50). At Route W. Lf' <'/:/[. \-K TO CHIASSO. liniiu'iivt < Kiissiiarlil >. ni.), the St Gotthard line begins. It is intended to continue it to Lucerne along the N. bank of the Lake of Lucerne to save mak- ing the detour by Kothkreuz. We now skirt the wooded and precipitous sides of the RIGI, and see on the summit the RigiKulm Hotel. Artli Goldaii (21 m., see pp. 49, 50) is the station for the Arth-Rigi railway. Leaving Arth we pass, through the scene of desolation left by the great GOLDAU LANDSLIP (see p. 49). In front of us we see the sharp peaks of the Mythen. We now approach the little lowerzer Sec, 1\ m. long. On the small island of Schwanau in the lake is a ruined castle. The local tradition is that in 1308 a wicked baron of Schwanau car- ried off a beautiful peasant girl, whom he ravished and kept im- prisoned in the castle. Her enraged relatives and friends stormed the castle, burnt it to the ground, and killed the baron. Every year since, on the anniver- sary of his death, a thunder- clap is heard among the ruins, followed by shrieks in the old tower, from which the ghost of the baron is seen flying, pursued by a maiden in white, till with a yell of terror he plunges into the lake and disappears. Stei lien (24^ m. ) was the birth- place of Werner Stauffacher, one of three heroes of Griitli (p. 45). A little chapel was erected in 1400 on the site of his house. 26 m. Schwyz-Scewen is the station for Schwyz, about 1 m. distant (pop. 6500, Hot. Jiossli, Hot. Hrdiyer). Schwyz, a pictur- esque little town lying at the base of the Mythen, is the capital of the canton. The church of St Martin with its marble columns is one of the finest in Switzerland. The Stnadthaiis contains the por- traits of the magistrates from 15:54, some trophies and stand- ards, and the originals of some of the ancient treaties made between the confederates. From Schwyz the GREAT MYTHEN (6244 ft.) can be ascended in 3| hrs. Guide, 4 frs. (unneces- sary). Horse, 10 frs. Inn near the summit. Magnificent view. (Route from Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel, see p. 39. ) lirtm it rn (28J m. ), on the lake of Lucerne, see p. 45. The station is about J m. from the lake. Beyond Brunnen we pass through a tunnel, and find the Bay of Uri (p. 45) immediately below us. Passing through seve- ral more small tunnels, and the tunnel of Oelberg, 1 J m. long, we reach Sisikon. 32| m., beyond which, after emerging from the Stutzeck tunnel, we pass Tel/'s PJatte. Tell's chapel (p. 46) is not visible. Fineleii (36 m. ), the landing place of the steamers on Lake Lucerne (see p. 46). Altorf (38 m. , ADLER, SCHLUS- SEL, both comfortable). The town is 1 m. from the station. Altorf is celebrated as the scene of the well-known story in the life of William Tell. In 1307 the tyrant Gessler, governor under the Austrians of the can- ton of Uri, in order to break the national spirit, hung his hat on a lime in the market-place, and ordered every passer-by to bow to it. Tell alone refused. The governor having heard of his skill as a marksman, ordered* him, under penalty of instant death, to place his only son against the tree and shoot an apple from his head with his cross-bow. Tell, knowing his skill, complied ; but at the same time secreted a second arrow for the heart of the tyrant if the first one killed his child. This being discovered, Tell was put in irons and hurried into a boat to be 7-2 Route 40. LUCERNE TO CHIASSO. taken to Gessler's castle at Kuss- nacht. A violent storm sud- denly arose, and none of his guards being able to manage the boat, Tell's chains were loosed and the helm handed over to him. He steered for shore, and on approaching the rock at Tell's Platte (p. 46), he suddenly sprang ashore, shoving the boat back into the lake as he leaped, and so made his escape. Shortly afterwards he waylaid Gessler at Kussnacht (p. 46), and shot him through the heart. The first history of Tell is found in the Weisses Buch, in the Rath- haus at Saarnen (p. 58). The spot where Tell stood is marked by a colossal statue of the hero in plaster, erected by the riflemen of Zurich in 1860. The tree under which the boy stood was blown down in 1567. The fountain, with the bust of the ma- gistrate Beseler, who erected it the same year, is said to occupy the spot. The same distinction has been claimed for the old tower a short distance farther away, but which is known to have existed before the time of Tell. In the church are three pictures by Vandyke, Holbein, and Car- acce. There are charming views from the Capuchiii, Monastery and the Pavilion Waldeck above the town. About 1 mile to the S. E. is the village of BUBGLEN (Inn, Tell), the birth-place and home of Tell. A little chapel, with frescoes of events in the life of Tell, was erected on the site of his house in 1522. Near the bridge over the Schachenbach is the spot where Tell was drowned trying to save the life of a child who was being swept down the stream during a flood. For route from Altorf to En- gelberg, see p. 67, and to Stach- elberg, see p. 37. Leaving Altorf we cross the rapid Schachenbach, where Tell was drowned (see above). Up the valley of the Teifthal we see the little village of Scfiaddorf. On the first Sunday in May the open-air Parliament of Uri takes place in a meadow near the village. Every male over twenty has a vote, and the magis- trates and other officers are chosen by show of hands. As we approach Erstfeld we see, towering above us on the left, the two peaks of the Windgellen (10,460 and 9850 ft.) and the Hohe Faulen (8210 ft), and on the right the precipices of the Gitsclwn (8330 ft.), while at the head of the valley is the Bristen- stock (10,090 ft). Erstfrld (41^ m.) is a large railway depot, where heavier lo- comotives are put on for the ascent to Goschenen. The val- ley now becomes narrower, and the scenery wilder, as we ascend to Amstey. On a rock to the right are the ruins of Zwing-Uri, one of Gessler's castles. The VILLAGE (Inns, Post, Hirsdi), 1 m. from the station, is prettily situated at the entrance to the Maderaner Thai, a picturesque ravine, 8 m. in length, hemmed by lofty mountains. [Bridle- path, 3^ hrs. to the Hotel A//ICU- club, at the foot of the HUFI GLACIER. Horse, 12 frs. Guide unnecessary. Picturesque return route to Amsteg by the Staffeln, the heights to the N. of the val- ley commanding fine views. 5| hrs. Guide necessary, 6-7 frs.] Leaving Amsteg we pass through a tunnel and cross the Karstelenbach, having a fine view to the L. up the Maderaner Thai, then two more tunnels and we cross the Reuss over a fine iron viaduct, 256 ft. high, com- manding magnificent views up and down the valley. The views now are finest on the left. We . LUCERNE TO CHtASSO. follow the left bank of the Reuss through a series of cuttings and tunnels to Gurtiiellcii, 50 m. From Gurtnellen commences the wonderful series of spiral tunnels and cuttings by which we ascend to Goschenen. The line so turns and twists that the travel- ler becomes quite bewildered. About 1 m. from Gurtnellen we pass through the first spiral tunnel, and emerge at a point farther back but higher up, and then cross the line we have lately passed over, and after several small tunnels we see Wasen, and two turns of the line high above us on our right. We then cross the Reuss and pass through the second spiral tunnel, and again crossing the river, reach Wascn (55 m., Hot. des Alms, Hot. Ochs), a large village. For Route from Meyringen, over the Susten Pass, to Wasen, see p. 69. Leaving Wasen, we ascend through the third spiral tunnel, emerging from which we have a fine view of Wasen and the windings of the line below. At iiosclieuen (59 m., 3640 ft., Rest, at the station, Hot. GiJsclieroen, Hot. Jtossli), is the entrance to the <>reat Tunnel (for description see p. 70). Dili- gences are in waiting for the Jfwrlca Pass (p. 77), AndermcM (p. 76), and C'oire (p. 129). For carriage road over the St Gott- hard Pass, see Route 41. On emerging from the tunnel we reach Airolo, 69J m., 3756 ft. (HoT. POSTA, Hot. Airolo), in the valley of the Tincio. From Airolo we descend into the ravine of Stalvedro, at the entrance to which is a ruined tower, built by the kings of Lombardy in tht eighth century. Passing Ambri-Piotta (73 m.), to the left of which lies the large village of QUINTO, and Rodi-Fiesso (76 m. ), the valley narrows, and we enter the gorge of Dnzio Gruiule, one of the most pic- turesque ravines in Switzerland, through which the Ticino, con- fined in a deep and rocky chan- nel, rushes down in a series of beautiful cascades. The finest view is from the bridge crossing the river before entering the first spiral tunnel (see plan). Emerging from this tunnel we again cross the Ticino, and de- scend through the second spiral tunnel to Fanlo (81 m., Hot. Angela, Hot. Prince de Galles). To the right is the cascade of Piumogna. The little village of Mairengo, near Faido, was the home of the celebrated New York restaurant keeper Delmonico, whose family still retain their little inheritance there. The villages and scenery have now quite an Italian aspect as we descend the picturesque Valle Levantina. From the rocky sides of the valley fall several pretty cascades, that of Cribiasca, on the right, near Lavorgo ( 85^ m. ), being the finest. Below La- vorgo we reach the picturesque ravine of Biaschina, where the Ticino forms a fine cascade, and passing through the last two spiral tunnels, and crossing the Ticino, reach Uiornico (90 m. , Inns : Cervo, Coroiui). The village is 1 m. from the station. The romanesque church of St Niclwlo da, Mira is built on the ruins of an ancient heathen temple. Here in 1478 a small body of 600 Swiss routed a large army of Milanese. The Swiss had descended into the valley on a plundering expedition, and being pursued by the Mil- anese, laid the low lying lands under water to stop their ad- vance. During the night the water became thickly covered with ice, which the Italians attempted to cross. This gave the Swiss, accustomed as they 74 Route 40. LUCERNE TO CHTASSO. were to travel over ice and snow, an immense advantage. They turned and fiercely attacked their enemies, at the same time hurl- ing down rocks on them from above, utterly routing them and killing over 2000. A pile of the stones which were thrown down marks the site of the battle-field. On the R. is the pretty cascade of Cramosina. Below Bodio (94 m. ) the valley expands, and the vegetation becomes much more luxurious. Biasca (98 m. , Hot. Unions, De la Gare). On a height is the Chapel of St Petronella, on the ascent to which are a series of oratories. Above it is the pretty cascade of St Petronella. Passing Osogna (101^ m.), with the falls of Bogr/era to the L. , and Castwne (107^ m. ), we reach the junction of the Moe'sa and Ticino at AR- BEDO, famous as the scene of a battle in 1422 between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which the Swiss were defeated with a loss of half their number. Near the Church of St Paolo are three mounds, under which are buried 2000 of the slain of both armies. We now approach Bellinzona, and have a fine view of this pic- turesque town, with its lofty battlements aud castles. Bellinzona (Hot. Posta, Hot. de la Ville) was the scene of re- peated struggles between the Swiss and Italians, till the former finally obtained the supremacy in the 16th cent. The three pic- turesque castles were built in 1445 by the Viconti family, but afterwards became the residences of the three Swiss bailiffs, who despotically governed the district. Prom the largest, the Castello Grande, there is a magnificent view. Bellinzona is not a desirable stopping-place, and travellers for Lake Maggiore should go on to Locarno (see p. 146). From Bellinzona the line ascends steeply up the Monte C'enere, affording lovely views of the valley. Passing Rivera- Bironico (118^ m.), Tacerne (124 m.), and through the Massagno Tunnel, a magnificent view of Lugano and the lake breaks upon us. Railway Station, I m. above the town ; footpath, 5 m. Hotels. HOTEL DU PARC, with dependance, VILLA BEAUSKJOUR. Fine large hotel, with beautiful gardens overlooking the lake. Very comfort- able. Desirable winter residence. HO- TEL WASHINGTON, opposite the landing. Hot. Lugano, Hot. Suisse. PENS. BELLEVUE, 5 m. from the town. Gar- den'and fine view. Post and Telegraph Office in a side street to the R. of the Hotel Washington. Boats, with boatmen, 2 frs. fin- first hour; 1.50 c. for each add. hour. Eng. Ch. Ser. at the Hotel du Pare. Lugano is beautifully situated on the N. shore of Lake Lugano. The climate is mild yet bracing, and there are charming excur- sions in all directions, making it a delightful stopping-place at all seasons of the year. To the S. rises Monte Salvatore (2980 ft.), see below. Opposite the landing is the Palazzo Civico, now the Hotel Washington . On the quay, which, shaded with trees, affords a plea- sant promenade, is a statue of Tell. In the church of ST MARIA DEGLT ANGELI, alongside the Hotel du Pare, is a very curious old FRESCO of the Crucifixion by Limi. Half a mile from the Hotel du Pare are the gardens of the Pare Ciani, Adm. 1 fr. Excursions, to Monte Sal- vntore (2980 ft.), 2 hrs. Horse, 9 frs. Guide, 4 frs. , xmnecessary. Half a mile along the S. Martino road from the Hotel du Pare a paved lane leads to the R. under the railway, passing the Villa Mar- Ernie &.GOSCHENEN TO AIROLO. chino, to the village of Pazzallo (20 min. ), from which we catch a glimpse of Monte Rosa to the W. in the distance. The bridle-path here diverges to the L., and passes through the gateway of the fourth house. Keep now always to the L. On the summit is a pilgrimage chapel and small inn. The view embraces, on the W. , the chain of the Valais Alps, with the peaks of Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. To the S. and E. stretches the Lake of Lugano, with Monte Generoso beyond (see below). The highest peak seen to the E. is Monte Legnone (8570 ft.). To the N. are the twin peaks of Camoghe (7300 ft. ). Monte Capriiio, opposite Lu- gano on the other side from Monte Salvatore, is a favourite resort for the Luganese. On the hill-side are a number of small grottoes, which have been made into wine cellars. At several of them wine is sold, which is generally ice cold and most refreshing. Moiitc Bre, to the E. of Lu- gano, 2 \ hrs. , commands a beauti- ful view of the lake. Monte Generoao (see below). For steamers on the lake, see Route LXXX. Leaving Lugano we skirt the W. shore of the lake to Melide, where we cross it over a long stone embankment to Maroggia (134m.). Mcmlrisio (139 m., HOTEL MENDRISIO, Angela). FromMen- drisio we make the ascent of Monte Geiieroso. Mule, 6 frs. ; small carriage, 10 frs. ; return fare, 16 frs. Guide unnecessary. In 2J hrs. we reach the fine HO- TEL GENEROSO (4000 ft.), and in 1J hrs. more, the summit. Monte Geiicroso (5560 ft. ) is the Rigi of Italy, and commands a superb view of all the Italian lakes and the plains lying between, as well as distant panoramas of the Swiss and Italian Alps. hiasso(144 m., Restaurant at the station) is the frontier town and custom house. Wait of half to three quarters of an hour. < omo (see p. 148) is reached in 8 min. Chiasso to Milan, 1 hrs. EOUTE XLI. GOSCHENEN TO AIROLO OVER THE ST GOTTHARD PASS BY ROAD. 22 m. The diligence now runs only as far as ffospentfial (5.J m.), four times daily, in 1 hrs.; Fares, 2.50 c. and 2.70 c. Two-horse carriage to the Hospice, 40 frs. ; to Airolo, 70 frs. Travellers who have time and can spare the expense will be well repaid for driving over the St Gotthard. The Pass is one of the finest in Switzerland. From Goscheiien the road runs through a ravine called the SCHOLLENEN, over which the rocks ascend perpendicularly to a great height, while the Reuss is heard rushing through its narrow channel at a considerable depth below. The road passes by a huge block of granite, dis- lodged from the cliffs, called the TEUFELSSTEIN, from a tradition that it was thrown down by Satan. Parts of the road about here are roofed over with stone, and niches are cut in the rock to protect travellers from the avalanches, 76 Route &.G08CHSNBN TO AIROLO. which descend in the spring. The most dangerous place is guarded by a gallery 60 yards long, at the end of which is the Bull's Head of Uri. We re- peatedly cross and recross the river by a zig-zag route over many bridges, and presently arrive at The Devil's Bridge, constructed originally, it is stated, in 1118, by Giraldus, Abbot of Einsiedeln. The span of the arch is 26 feet, and its height from the surface of the water to the keystone about 70 ; but as the arch spans a cataract almost vertical in its descent, the bridge thus acquires an elevation of nearly 200 feet. The whole scene is full of savage grandeur. The granite rocks rise sheer and unbroken from the water's edge, and present a stern and sterile aspect, which artists of many countries have in vain striven adequately to delineate. Below the bridge is the CASCADE OF THE REUSS, 100 ft. in height. The construction of this portion of the road was one of immense difficulty. The work- men had first to be let down from above by ropes to blast a foothold out of the rock. On the 25th September 1799, the Russian army under the command of Suvoroff, entered the village of Andermatt. The French, forced to retire before the Russians, destroyed most of the Devil's Bridge, by which means the communication, for a time, was effectually cut off. The Russians nevertheless re- stored the communication across the chasm by means of beams of wood, lashed together with the officers' sashes ; but in thus forcing the passage, several hundreds were plunged headlong into the gulf. ' ' Our army, " says the general, in his despatch, " penetrated the dark mountain cavern of Urseren, and made themselves masters of a bridge which connects two mountains, and justly bears the name of the Devil's Bridge. Though the enemy had destroyed it, the progress of our victorious soldiers was not impeded. Planks were tied together with the officers' sashes, and along that bridge they threw themselves from the pre- cipices into tremendous abysses, and, falling in with the enemy defeated them wherever they met. It now remained for our troops to climb a mountain, the summit of which is covered with eternal snow, ice, and clay, by which numbers of men and horses were impelled down the yawning caverns, where some found their graves, and others escaped with the greatest difficulty." "It is beyond the power of language," he concludes, "to paint this awful spectacle in all its horrors." Beyond the Devil's Bridge the road passes through the Urner- loch or Hole of Uri, a tunnel 60 yds. long. Before the con- struction of the tunnel the road passed round the rock over a plat- form of boards hung from above by chains. We now enter the peacef ul valley of Urseren, 4, 356ft. Andermatt (4 m., HOTEL BELLEVUE, DU ST GOTHARD, Drei Krone, Oberalp). It is celebrated for the honey and cheese produced in the neigh- bourhood, and for the trout caught in the Oberalp See. Near the church is a bone-house con- taining a number of skulls with inscriptions. In the distance to the left we see the Glacier of tit Anna. Hospeiithal (5 m., HOTEL MEYERHOF). For route over the FURKA, see p. 77. From this point the road leaves the valley of Urseren, and proceeds by zig-zags to make the ascent to the summit of the St Gothard. Before reaching the Pass we Route 11.GOSCHENEN TO THE RHONE. 77 finally cross the Reiiss, near its source in a small lake called the Lucendro, J m. below, ^ m. to the right. The bridge marks the boundary between the cantons of Uri and Ticino. The Snnimit of the Pass (6936 ft., 13| m.) is at the disused HOSPICE, Hotel du Monte Prosa alongside. There was a hospice here as early as the 13th century. In the 17th century a larger one was constructed, but was swept away by an avalanche in 1775 ; it was succeeded by a third, which is still used, though the large building now called the hospice is of a much more recent date. This last is fitted tip as an inn, under the control of a priest, and contains 15 beds. During the winter months the snow is sometimes driven into masses 40 ft. high, and avalanches are not infrequent. Before the construction of the railway over 16,000 travellers and 9000 horses crossed the pass, annually, and no year passed without some lives being lost. The road descends to Airolo in twenty-eight winding terraces. Near the first, on a rock is cut the words Suvcarrow Victor, com- memorating the campaign of 1799 (see above). Half way down we pass through the Vul Treinola, a dark and dismal gorge, 1J m. long, into which avalanches con- tinually fall in winter and spring. A pretty mineral called Tre- molite is found in large quantities here. Specimens may be picked up at the side of the road. Airolo (22 m. ), see p. 73. EOUTE XLII. GOSCHENEN TO THE RHONE GLACIER AND BRIEG OVER THE FURCA PASS. Distance. Goschenen to Rhone Glacier, 25 m. ; to Brieg, 56 m. Diligence twice daily to the Rhone Glacier, in 64 hrs. (10 frs. ; coupS, 12 frs.). To Brieg once daily, in 12 hrs. (from Brieg, 14 hrs.), (22.50 c.; coups', 27 frs.). Diligence stops at the Rhone Glacier Hotel for dinner. Goschenen to llospenthal, where the route leaves the St Gothard road, see p. 76. Passing under the shadow of the Spitzberg (10,000 ft.), the road commences to ascend in long zig-zags at Rcalp (9i m., Hot. des Alpes, Paste in the Old Hospice). At Tlcfenbnch-Schiriulians (Inn), the diligence makes a halt. Three quarters of a mile from here is the TIEFEN GLACIER, where the large crystals in the Berne museum were found (p. 7). The road still ascending, we see on the R. the Siedeln Glacier, the stream issuing from it forming a fine waterfall. Soon after wo reach the summit of the Fnrca (8000 ft., Hot. de la Furca, fair), from which we have a magnificent view of the peaks of the Bernese Alps. Now descending in long windings, overhanging the Rhone Glacier, we pass the BELLEVUE INN (comfortable, m. from the glacier), and crossing the Rhone reach the RHONE GLACIER HOTEL at Gletsch. The magnificent Rhone Glacier, which extends for 15 miles like a frozen cataract, lies at the base of the lofty peaks of the Gerstenhorner (10,450ft.), and Gelmerhorner (10,500 ft.) on the W., and the 78 Route &.GOSCHENEN TO THE RHONE. (11,800 ft.), R/ionestock (11,820 ft.), and Dammastock (12,000 ft. ), on the E. The glacier, which like all the other Swiss glaciers has greatly decreased of late years, gives birth to the Rhone, which de- scends 5750 ft. in its course of 500 miles to the sea. An ice cave (50 c.) has been cut in the Glacier. From Gletsch the road descends in long windings to Oberwald (3f m. , Hot. Furca), in the green valley of the Upper Valais (2 m. ). Farther on is Obergestelcii, where a road to the Grimsel leads to the R. At Uric-hen (If m., Hot. zum Griesgletsclier, plain), a path leaves for the Falls of Tosa and Domo d'Ossola (see Route LXIV). M iiiist er (2J m. , Inn, Goldener Kreuz, fair), is the largest village in the valley. Passing Nieder- vald (4| m., Inn), we reach (4| m.) Fiesch or Viescli (Hot. du Glacier; Hot des Alpes, both fair), a pretty village at the junction of the Fieschbach and Rhone. From Fiesch the ascent of the Eggischhorn (9650 ft. ) is made, an easy and most interesting ex- cursion. Two-thirds of the way up is the HOTEL JUNGFRAU, com- fortable. A bridle-path leads to within half an hour of the summit. Horse or mule to the Hotel, 10 frs. ; beyond, 5 frs. more. Guide not necessary, but desirable for the latter portion of the ascent. Charge from Hotel Jungfrau to summit, 4 frs. Time to the Hot. Jungfrau, 2J hrs. , thence to the summit, 1| hrs. From Fiesch the path leads over the the bridge and up the mountain to the R. The view from the summit on a clear day embraces a magnifi- cent panorama of the numberless peaks of the Bernese Oberland to the N. W., and the Monte Rosa range to the S. W. Below us is the immense Aletsclt Glacier, 16 m. long and 1 wide, the largest glacier in Swit- zerland. Towering over all is the Grosse Alctscbliorii (13,773 ft., the second highest peak of the Bernese Alps. To the R. , in the hollow, is the Marjelen See, formed by the melting of the glaciers. Great masses of ice often break off from the glacier, and float on its surface like miniature icebergs. The FIES- CHER GLACIER to the R. of the Marjelen See has diminished very much in size, but is interesting from its beautiful colouring. It can be reached from Fiesch in 2^ hrs., steep climbing, guide necessary. A magnificent excursion to the Aletscb. Glacier rejoining the main road to Brieg at Morel (see below) can be made from the Hotel Jungfrau over the Betten Alp, where there is a small lake, on to the Rieder Alp, comfortable Inn, thence down to Morel ; time, 4 hrs. To visit the Glacier itself a path from the Rieder Alp must be taken over the Furca mountain, crossing the glacier to the Bell- alp, where there is a comfortable HOTEL. Time from the Rieder Alp to the Bellalp, 3J hrs. Guide from the Hotel Jungfrau to the Bellalp, 8 frs. Horse, 20 frs. Bridle-path all the way except crossing the glacier. [A path from Fiesch leads through the BINNEX THAL and over the Albrun Pass to A nder- matten or Premia, in the Val Formosa (see p. 120). Time, 12 hrs. ; guide, 13 frs. This route is one of the most picturesque in Switzerland. A bridle-path leads in 3 hrs. to the village of BINN (4720 ft. ; Hot. OFENHORN, very comfortable), in the Sinnen Thai. From Binn the Bettlihorn (9730 ft.) can be ascended in 6 hrs. Guide, 8 frs. Ascent not diffi- cult, view magnificent. From Binn a path leads along R 0l ,t e 12,. THUN TO LEUK. 79 the river Binna to Imfeld (5144 ft. ) in | hr. , where the path be- comes much rougher (guide ne- cessary). Passing through a wood we reach in 2 hrs. the last habi- tations at Auf den Platt (6925 ft.), from which we ascend to the summit of the Albrini Pass (7900 ft. ), in 1 hr. Now descend- ing in 1 hr. to the fieuli Alp the path divides, the L. leading over the Forno and across the Col de Vanin, passing the Lake of Le- le>iduib (see below), and descend- ing to ANDERMATTEN, 3 hrs. (see p. 120). The R. hand path leads down the valley past the Lake of Codelago through the Val Devero in 4 hrs. to PJREJIIA (see p. 120). The TOSA FALLS can be reached by taking the path to the L. at the Lake of Lebendun (see above), crossing the Nufelgiu Pass at the foot of portion of the glacier of the Ofenhorn, and descending the valley to Auf der Fluh at the Falls, see p. 120.] Leaving Fiesch the road de- scends to Lax (Kreuz), and thence through beautiful scenery, with the Weisshorn in the distance, to Morel(see a,bove)'(Hot. desAlpes). Passing Xaters (4 m. ), with its ruined castles of Supersox and Weingarten, we reach Brleg (see p. 121). EOUTE XLIII THUN TO LEUK BY THE GEMMI PASS. Steamer to Spiez from Thun or Interlaken, 4 times daily. Diligence from Spiez to Frutigen, 9J m., in 2J hrs., 4 times daily, 2.75 c. From Frutigen to Kanderstag, S m.,in 2J hrs. (descent, 2 hrs.) twice daily, 3 frs. Also omnibus from Thun to Ueustrich-Bad (see below), daily, 2.50 c. 1 horse carriage, Spiez to Frutigen, 10 frs. ; 2 horse, 18 frs. To Kanderstag, 18 frs. and 35 frs. From Thun to Frutigen, 13 frs. and 25 frs. ; to Kanderstag 20 frs. and 40 frs. Good Bridle-Path from Kanderstag to the Baths of Leuk, 16 m. From the baths to Leuk, good carnage road, 9J m. (station , 105), omnibus several times daily, in 2 hrs.; ascent, 3), hrs., 5 frs.; coupe 6J frs. 1 horse carnage, 13 frs. ; 2 horse, 25 frs. The Gemmi is one of the most interesting and best frequented passes in Switzerland. From Thun to Spiez by steamer, see p. 54. From Spiez the road ascends gently to Moos where the road from Thun joins in. Before us we see the peak of the NIESEN (p. 53). At Spiezwyler (Inn, de I' Ours, 1| m.), we join the road from Wiinmis (p. 53). We now skirt the Kander to Emdthal (4 m.), near which on the opposite bank of the river is Hens! rich- Bad, a health resort, much fre- quented for its sulphur and salt baths. For ascent of the NIESEX, see p. 53. From Muliiieii (5 m. , Hot. Bar), a road leads in 1 m. to the pretty village of AESCHI (Hot. Bliimlisalp). De- lightful air and fine view of the lake. Passing Reichenbach (6 m. , Inn Bar), we have fine views of the Blumlis Alp, and next reach Frntigen (2720 ft.), (Hoi. BELLEVUE, Helvetia), a pretty village on the Engstligenbach. Fine view of the valley from the church. For ascent of the Niesen, see p. 53. Passing the ancient castle of Tellenbnrn on the right, we pro- 80 Route 1Z.THUN TO LEUK. ceed up the beautiful Kander Thai to Bnnrterbach 12 m.), Ir>n, Altels), f m. farther on, at a little tavern, a path to the right leads in a few minutes to the Blane See, a beautifully situ- ated little lake, remarkable for the lovely blue colour and tran- sparency of its water. There is a Pension on the lake. From the lake another path leads in 10 min. to the main road higher up. To the right on a crag are the ruins of the Felsenburg tower. Kandersteg (3839 ft., 19 m., HOT BAR, HOTEL GEMMI, Hot. Victoria), beautifully situated at the foot of the pass. A day can be pleasantly spent at Kanderstag making excursions in the neigh- bourhood. The GASTERNTHAL (f hr.) is a wild and picturesque ravine, through which the Kander, hemmed in by frowning pre- cipices, rushes down in a series of beautiful cascades. The en- trance is behind the Hotel Bar. A path to the left near the Hot. Victoria leads to the CEscHlNEN THAL (1| hrs. , guide, 4 frs. , unnecessary ; horse, 8 frs. ). In the valley is the Oeschinen See, a lake 1 mile long, enclosed by precipices, from which fall three pretty cascades. The lake is at the foot of the Blilmlisalp (12,040 ft.). A path leads round the left bank of the lake in about 2 m. to the foot of the Jjliimlisalp Glacier. From Kanderstag a bridle-path leads up the Gasternthal and over the Lotschen Pass to GAMPEL or TUBTMAN on the Martigny-Brieg line in 10J hrs. Guide (necessary) to Kippel, 15 frs.; to Gampel, 20 frs. The scenery in the pass is very mag- nificent, bnt the route is arduous and should not be undertaken except by good walkers and in settled weather. The ascent by the bridle-path over the Gemmi commences from Kanderstag, winding for 1J hrs. at the foot of the Gelli- horn. In another hour we pass the chalets of Spitalmatt (6250 ft.), on our right. To the left we see the ZAGEX GLACIER com- ing down from the Balmhorn (12,180 ft.), and embedded be- tween the Altels (11,920 ft.) on the left, and the Rinderhorn (11,370 ft) on the right. A rocky path now leads to the Schtvarenbach Inn (67,750 ft.), 3 hrs. from Kanderstag, the scene of Werner's gloomy tragedy of the "24th of February," and Dumas' novel on the same story, viz., the murder of the land- lord's daughter by two Italians, which, however, has no found- ation in fact. In J hr. we reach the DAUBEN SEE, a lake 1J m. long, entirely fed by the melting snows, and frozen more than half the year. Passing the lake through a scene of weird and desolate grandeur, we attain the Siuninit of the denuul Pass (7550 _ft.), at the base of the precipice of the Daubenhorn (9450 ft.). Be- yond is the WildstruM (10,670 ft.), with the Lammern Glacier descending from its heights. A little above us to the left is the small Hot. Wildsti-ubel, which commands a magnificent view of the Valais Alps and Rhone Valley, with the peaks of the Mischabel, Weisshorn, Matter- horn, and Monte Rosa. Imme- diately below us, far down, are the Baths of Leuk. In a few minutes we find our- selves on the brink of a giddy precipice, 1660 ft. high, down which a remarkable path has been made. The zig-zags have been cut out of the face of the rock, and carried over ledges that overhang the road below. The sharp turns and steepest parts are protected by parapets. In 1861 a young French lady, the Countess d'Herlincourt, who was Ilw.le U.THL\\ T TO SION. 81 on her wedding tour, suddenly overcome with faintness, slipped from her saddle, fell over the preci- pice and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. A white cross on the rock marks the spot. Since this sad event it has been prohibited to ride down on horse- back, but the descent on foot is perfectly safe even to nervous persons. Leiiker-Bnd (4640 ft., HOTEL DES ALPES, MAISON BLANCHE, HOTEL BELLEVUE, Hotel Union, Hot. Freres Bru/ii- ner, Hotel de France), a little village much frequented by Swiss and French for its Thermal springs, which are very efficacious for cutaneous diseases. The pa- tients sit together in a large bath for several hours with only their heads and hands out of the water. Small tables float on the bath, on which the bathers can enjoy their coffee or read their books and newspapers. The strictest rules of decorum are observed, as the bathers are sub- ject to a heavy fine for trans- gressing. "Rule?. No person is allowed to enter the baths without being decently clad in a long gown of thick material, un- der a penalty of 2 frs. ! " Tourists are admitted to see the bathing from 5 to 10 A.M. and 2 to 5 P.M. The charge for a bath is 2 frs. A pleasant walk is from the Kur Promenade through the wood to the precipice of WAND- FLUH (1J m.). Up the face of the rock are a series of ladders, by which the peasants from the village of-Albmen descend to the baths. None but those having very steady nerves should attempt to scale them. The TORRENHORX (9860 ft.) can be ascended without difficulty in 4 hrs. Bridle-path almost to the summit. Horse, 15 frs. Guide desirable, 10 frs. The Torrenhorn commands a magnificent view of both the Bernese and Valais Alps. The carriage road to Leuk descends on the right bank of the Dala to Inden (3 m., Inn). [From here a bridle-path leads to the left, rejoining the road at the bridge over the Dala. 1 m. farther down the road, the path again diverges to the right at a small chapel. Pedestrians can considerably shorten the distance to Leuk by taking this route.] From Inden the road crosses the Dala over a lofty bridge 170 ft. in height, and descends to Leuk in windings, affording beautiful views of the Rhone Valley. Lcnk (9i m. ). The station is a mile further on, see p. 121. EOUTE XLIV. THUN TO SIGN BY THE SIMMENTHAL AND RAWYL. Diligence once daily in 8 hrs. to Lent (33J m.), 9.25 c. 1 horse carnage, 35 frs. ; 2 horse, 60 frs. Bridle-path In 10 hrs. to Sion. Guide, desirable, 20 frs. Also diligence thrice daily to Zweisimmen (25J m.) in 5 hrs., 6.95 c. 1 horse carriage, 28 frs. ; 2 horse, 50 frs. Tills route is more fatiguing and much less interesting than the route over the Gemmi, to which tourists are strongly advised to give the preference. The route keeps in view of the is the ancient tower of Strcitt- lake for 3 miles, when the road liyen. from Spiez joins in. To the right ISrolliiisi (6 m., Inn Hir*ch) 82 Routed. THUN TO SWN. lies opposite Wimmis. For ascent of the NIESEN see p. 53. On the hill is the picturesque castle of Wimmis. We now enter the Siiuiueutlinl, a rich pastoral valley, through a narrow defile called Port. Wefssentonrg (14J m., Hot. Weissenburg), 1^ m. up the gorge to the left is the Weissenberg- Rnd. a much frequented health resort, delightfully situated in the midst of pine woods. The waters and air are specially bene- ficial in bronchial affections. Two fine HOTELS have been built by the Messrs Hauser, which are replete with every comfort. The old baths (Pension) J m. farther on are now only frequented by peasants and the poorer class of patients. Passing through the defile of Enge we reach Boltlgen (21 m., Inn Bar), a prosperous village at the base of the steep Mittagjhth (6200 ft. ). A diligence runs daily in 6 hrs. to BULLE (see Route XLVH.). Zweissimmeii (25 m., Hot. Krone, Simmenthal), the prin- cipal village in the valley, pic- turesquely situated at the con- fluence of the Grande and Petite Simme. One m. above the village is the castle of Blankenburg, commanding a fine view. (For route to Saanen and Aigle. see p. 83.) Lenk (33J m. , Inn Hirsch), a little village which was almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1878. Half m. from the village is the KURHAUS LENK with sulphur baths. Leaving Lenk we enter the Rawyl, having on our left the snowy peaks of the Wildstrubel (10,670 ft.). For the first 3 m. we have a carriage road. At the commencement of the bridle-path we pass the fine Falls of the Iffigenbacli. The path leads steeply up the right into the wooded valley of the Iffigenbach to Iffigen, 2 hrs. ( Tavern). A finger post here indicates the path which mounts the pass in zig- zags. Passing in 1| hrs. the little Raieyl See, and the cross marking the boundary between the cantons of Berne and Valais, we reach the Suminil of Ilie Rawyl (7940 ft. ), 4 hrs. Beyond the summit the path becomes much rougher, and the descent should not to be attempted by the inexperienced without a guide. Passing a small lake we have a fine view of a portion of the Valais Alps. The path now descends in windings to a bridge, (5^ hrs.), then ascends a little, leaving on the left the chalets of Ravin. After passing Ravin the ascent becomes steeper in order to avoid the difficult pass of the Handle. The descent to Ayent, 8 hrs., is exceedingly rough and fatiguing. This portion of the descent can be shortened by 1 hr., by passing over the KAXDLE (see above), which is a narrow path along the artificial bank of a water course cut in the face of the rock. This path is in some places only a foot wide and over- hangs a precipice, in one place passing over an abyss by a narrow plank. Though the most diffi- cult portion is passed over in 10 min. , only those with very steady nerves should attempt it. From Ayent the path improves, and we descend to Sion in 2 hrs. Slon, 10 hrs. (see p. 121). &.THUN TO SAANEN AND AIGLK 88 KOUTE XLY. THUN TO SAANEN" AND AIGLE OVEK THE COL DE PILLON. Diligence to Saanen, 34 m., twice daily in 8J hrs. Fare, 9.30 c. Diligence from Saanen to Gsteig, 29 m., twice daily, in 8 hrs. Fare, 6.8 c. Prom Thun to Zwcisiinmcii, 25i m. , see Route XLIV. From Zweisimmen the road ascends for 5 miles, crossing a succession of deep ravines. At the summit of the pass (Inn) we have fine views on the left, in the distance, of the Gelten Glacier, under the Wildhom, the Sanetsch- horn, 9680ft., the Sanetsch Gla- cier, then the Diablerets, 10,040 ft. , and nearer, the rugged Gum- fluh, 8070 ft., and the RMehorn, 7570 ft. As we descend we have fine views of the pretty and fertile valleys of Saanen and Gsteig. Saanen or Gesseney, 34? m., (GRAND HOTEL LOGIS). From Saanen a diligence runs daily to Bulle (p. 84) in 5 hrs., and to Chateau d'Oex (p. 85) twice daily in 1J hrs. Saanen is one of the principal centres for the export of the famed Gruyeres cheese. From Saanen the road leads through the Saanenthal, passing GSTAD (2 m., Inn, Bar), to dstcig (7 m., Hotel Bar), pic- turesquely situated at the foot of the Oldenhorn, 10,200 ft., and Saanetschhorn, 9680 ft. [From Gsteig a fatiguing bridle- path leads over the Sanetsck Pass to Sion (p. 121) in 8 hrs. The pass commands a series of beau- tiful but hardly grand views. There is no hotel accommodation on the road.] From Gsteig we ascend through the Reusthal to the summit of the Col rtc Pilloii (12 m.), 5890 ft. We have fine views down the valley as we descend to Les Plans (15 m., Hot. DBS DIA- BLERETS, Hot. Bellevue), beauti- fully situated in view of the t'l-riix il<- Champs, a curious amphitheatre surrounded by the precipices and glaciers of the Diablerets, 10,040 ft. The Creux de Champs can be seen in 3 hrs. , there and back. At its head are several fine waterfalls. From Les Plans we descend to Vers PEgllse (16Jm., Hot. Monsejour), and 4^ m. farther on join the road from Chateau d'Oex. To the S. we have a view of the Dent du Midi, 10,450 ft. Pass- ing Sepey (22 m., Hot. des Alpes, Hot. Mont d'Or), we descend through a wooded valley, and approaching Aigle, pass the large HOTEL DBS BAINS, on the opposite side of the river Grande- Eau. Algle, 29 m. , see p. 95. Route W.liOMONT TO BULLS. ROUTE XLVL EOMONT TO BULLE, CHATEAU D'OEX, AND AIGLE. Railway, 12 m., in 40 min. from Romont to Bulle. Diligence from Sulle twice daily in 3J hrs. to Chateau d"0ex. 18 m.; Fares, 4.85 c. and 6.30 c. Chateau o von (9m., Hot. duJa man). [From Montbovon, a bridle- path leads over the JAMAN PASS in 6 hrs. to Montreux (see p. 94). Guide unnecessary. Horse to Montreux or Vevey, 20 frs. ; or to the summit only, 10 frs. The pass is exceedingly picturesque, and affords beautiful views along Route ff.BOLTIOEN TO BULLE. 86 the whole route, especially on reaching the Summit of the pass (4974 ft.).] Leaving Montbovon, we enter the picturesque ravine of La Tine, and passing the pretty villages of La Tine, RossiERES (Pens. Grand Chalet, Pens. Dulmis, Eng. Ch. Ser. ), and Les Moulins, where the road branches off to Aigle (see below), we reach Chateau d'Oex (HOT. BER- THOD, HOT. DE L'OUHS, PENS. ROSAT, Villad'Oex, Eng. Ch. Ser.), a frequented summer resort, de- lightfully situated in a rich pas- toral district. MONT CRAY, commanding a view of the Mont Blanc chain, can be ascended in 2 : - hrs. To reach Aigle we take the road branching off at Les Moulins on the Bulle road, 1^ m. from Chateau d'Oex (see above), and ascend the valley of Tourneresse in long windings to L'ETIVAZ, 5J m. from Aigle. Two miles from Etivaz we reach the SUMMIT of the pass (5070 ft.) Descending to LES MOSSES (11 m.), we have a fine view of the Dent du Midi. We now descend the valley of the Raverette to La C'oinballaz (13.J; m -> HOT. COURONNE), a health resort much frequented for its bracing air and mineral spring. At Lc Sepey (16^ m.), we join the road from Gsteig (see p. 83). Aigle (23J m.), see p. 95. ROUTE XLVII. BOLTIGEN TO BULLE. Diligence daily, 24 m., in GJ hrs.; Fare, 7.90 c. Passing Reidenback (_J m. ), the road ascends to the R. in zig-zags to the pass of KILCHMOOS (6 m., 4940 ft.). The whole ascent commands lovely views of the surrounding peaks, and the valleys of Lenk and the Simmen- thal below us, which increase in magnificence as we approach the summit. The descent to Bellegarde 3 m. ) is exceedingly grand and picturesque. The road in many places is hewn out of the face of the precipices, and overhangs the ravines below at giddy heights. Passing the little village of Wie- belsried, we reach Bcllcgardc, or Jaun (9 m. , Inn de la Cascade). Opposite the inn is a beautiful cascade, 90 ft. in height. A steep footpath leads to the top of the falls. The stream, the source of which is unknown, issues from a cleft in the mountain side, and again dis- appears some distance below the falls, and joins the Jogne by a subterranean channel. Above the village are the ruins of an an- cient chateau destroyed by the men of Thun in 1407. We next pass through the pastoral valley of Bellegarde and the picturesque Gorge of Tzintre to Chaniicy (16 m., Hotel Tanne), a quiet and pretty summer resort. From the picturesque little church on a knoll there is a fine view of the valley. On some of the houses are frescoes of varioxis episodes in the village history, among them that of a duel between two of the Swiss guards of Louis XV. , who fought for the hand of a maiden of Charmey. Both com- Route 48.BJEX TO SIOX. batants were killed, but the fair then the Jaiui, and following the cause of the fight consoled herself valley of the lower Gruyere with another husband immedi- reach Broc (21 m. ), with an an- ately afterwards. Leaving Char- cient fortress. We now join the mey, we cross in 2 min. the ravine of the Javroz over a fine iron bridge 360 ft. in length, and road from Chateau d'Oex at Tour de Treme (22J m.), and reach Bulle (23 m.), see p. 84. EOUTE XL VIII BEX TO SIGN OVER THE COL DE CHEVILLE. Time, 11 lirs. Carriage Road as far as Gryon, 7 m., ascent, 12 frs.; descent, 8 frs. From Gryon, Bridle-Patll, S hrs., to Couthey, a village in the Rhone valley, \ m. from the carriage road (2A m.), to Sion. Guide from Gryon, desirable, 12 frs. Horse or mule, 20 frs. or 7 frs., to the summit only, which is as far as necessary, as the descent is uncomfortable for riding. Bex (see p. 95). From Bex the road ascends in windings, with a fine view of the Dent de Midi (10,450 ft.), to Grj-oii, 7 m. (Pens. Morel, Pens. Danssay.) The bridle-path leads to the right, and we have in view be- fore us the four peaks of the Diablerets (10,040 ft.). To the right we see the peaks of Ar- gentine (7985 ft.), and the Grand Muveran (10,040 ft). In Ihr. we pass the hamlet of Sergnement, and crossing the Avancon, reach in p hr. more the chalets of Soulalex. fhe path now rapidly ascends in windings in 1 hrs. to the hamlet of ANZEIXDAZ (Inn, with a few beds). To the right is the small glacier of Paneyrossaz and the peak of the Tete de Gros Jean (8300 ft). To the left are the jagged peaks of the Diablerets. The path is now more level to the summit of the Col de tlteville (6675 ft), where we have a fine view of the Valais Alps. The path, which new be- comes indistinct, descends steep- ly in ^ hr. past a cascade to the chalets of Chemlle (Tavern), and thence winds down in hr. more to the LAC DE DERBORENCE in a gloomy ravine called by the natives the Vestibule of Hell. Two terrible landslips occurred here in 1714 and 1749, the first burying 55 chalets and 15 per- sons. The second dammed up the course of the Lizerne and formed the lake. Frequent smaller landslips are constantly taking place, hardly an hour passing without the sound of falling rocks being heard. Skirt- ing the lake and passing through a scene of the utmost desolation we cross in 1 hr. the Lizerne, and descend the gloomy RAVINE OF LIZERNE. The path overhang- ing sheer precipices of over 1000 ft. , is in many places cut out of the face of the rock, the dangerous points being protected by a stone wall. At the end of the gorge we reach the CHAPELLE ST BER- NARD (1 hrs.), where a beauti- ful view of the Ehone valley breaks upon us. The path now descends rapidly in 20 min. to Avent, and thence to tonllicy (Inn), a village in the Rhone Valley among large vineyards. Half a mile more brings us to the bridge over the Morge, where we join the high road (2 m.) to Sion, see page 121. a. Hotel National, B i. b. Hotel Beau Rivage, D 3- c. Hotel de la Paix,D3. d. Hotel de Russie,D3. e. Hotel des Bergues, D 4. f. Hotel de 1'Ecu, D 4, f. Hotel du Lac, F 4. Hotel Metropole,F 3. '. Hotel de la Couronne F4- 1. Monument of Duke of Brunswick, D 3. 2. National Monu- ment, E 3. 3. Jardin du Lac, 3. Pavilion du Lac, E 3 . Pierres du Niton, 2. 6. College, F 4. 7. Russian Church, 04. Cathedral, F 4-5. 9. Calvin's House, E 5. 10. Arsenal, F 5. 11. Hotel de Ville, F 5. 12. Athenfe, F 5. 13. University Build- ings, F 6. 14. Theatre, E 6. 15. Musee Rath. E 5-6. 16. Musee Fol. E 5. 17. Cathedral of Ndtre Dame, C 4. Route GQ. VISP TO ZERMATT. 115 A recurrence of this catastrophe is prevented by a series of con- duits, which confine the river, and give its waters sufficient force to carry away the ice as quickly as it is formed. From Mauvoisin the path descends to the river, and traverses the former bed of the lake, ascending in 1J hrs. to the chalets of Petite Chermontane and Vimjt-huit. In | hr. we cross the end of the Glacier du Mont Durand, and reach Cheraioii- lam- (7315 ft., beds in the chalets). The peaks overshadow- ing the valley looking from left to right are the Pointe d'Otemma (11,135 ft.), Mont Gele (11,540 ft.), Mont Avril (10,960 ft.), the Grand Comb in (14,165 ft.), the Tour de Boussine (12,590 ft.). From Chermontane the Summit of the Col. de Feitvtrc (9140 ft.) is reached in 1 hrs. "The col is enclosed by ridges of the most fantastic and savage grandeur, which descend from the mountains on either side ; on the N. E. from Mont Combin, rising to a height of (14,165 ft. ), and on the S. E. from Mont Gele, (11,539 ft. high), and almost too steep to bear snow, presenting a perfect ridge of pyramidal aiguilles stretching towards Valpellina." Prof. .Forbes. The descent to Valpellina (3100ft., Hot. des Mines) takes 4 hrs. Good carriage road through a beautiful valley to Aostn (9 m. ), see p. 112. ROUTE LX. VISP TO ZERMATT. Bridle path (4 hrs.) to St Niklaus. Horse or mule to StaJden, 6 frs. ; to St tfiklaus, 12 frs. Porters to St Niklaus, 6 frs., or to Zermatt, 12 frs. Luggage, which Is delivered the following day, can be sent by post. Carriage road from St Niklaus to Zermatt, 12 m. One horse carriage for 3 persons, 15 frs. Post-car with seats for 2 passengers runs daily, starting from St Niklaus at 12 ; but if there happens to be much luggage going, passengers are not taken. Fare, 4 frs. The bridle path follows the course of the Visp to Staldcn (2736 ft., 6 m., Hot. Stalden), at the junction of the Saasthal (p. 119) and the Nicholai-Thal, up which latter we ascend to si Mklaus (3820 ft, GRAND HOT. ST NICHOLAS, Hot. Loch- matter), the principal town in the valley. From St Niklaus the carriage road ascends- on the right bank of the Visp past huge blocks of stone, which were thrown down by the earthquake of 1855. In 2 m. we pass a cascade on the right, and reach the little village of Herbrigen (2^ m.). In 2 m. more we come in sight of the Weisshorn (14,800 ft.) and the Bies Glacier on the right, and on the left the Misabel (14,940 ft.), with the Testi Glacier. Before us are the Breithorn (13,685 ft.) and the Kleine Matterhorn (12,752 ft.). Between Itanda (6 m., Hot. Weisshorn) and Tcesch (8 m. ), we pass through the debris brought down by an ice avalanche in 1849. Though this avalanche did not strike any of the villages in its direct fall of 1500 ft. , the wind raised by it was so strong as to throw down several of the houses at Randa, some of the timbers 116 Route 60. V1SP TO ZERMATT. being blown a distance of half a mile. On the right we now come in sight of the Hoklickt Glacier, the lofty peak of the Matterhorn (14,705 ft.), and the immense Gorner Glacier, and reach Zermatt (5315 ft., HOTELS DU MONT CEBVIN, DU MONT ROSE, and ZERMATTER HOP, all most comfortable, under the excellent management of Herr Seiler. Hot. de la Paste. ENG. CH. SER. in the chapel near the Hot. Cervin). Zermatt, one of the most fre- quented Alpine villages in Switz- erland, takes the first rank for the magnificence of its glaciers, which exceed in fgrandeur either those of the Bernese Oberland or at Chamonix. Another of its great attractions is the lofty isolated peak of the MATTER- HORN. Indeed, in no other ac- cessible place in Switzerland does the traveller find himself so thoroughly in the heart of the regions of eternal ice and snow, which in their treacherous beauty have brought death to many a hardy mountaineer ; the little churchyards of the Parish Church and the English Chapel bearing witness to the number of victims who have paid with their lives the penalty of their hazardous ventures. Zermatt is also, how- ever, the centre for a number of delightful and perfectly safe ex- cursions. An excellent relief map of the surrounding district, which tourists should consult, is in the Zermatter Hof. Chief among these excursions is that to the Riflfclberg and Gorner Grat (excellent HOTEL on the Riffel- Alp, and smaller hotel on the Ritfelberg (8400 ft)., 20 min. higher up. ) Porter, 5 frs. Guide unnecessary. Ascent, 3 hrs. ; descent, 2 hrs. From the Riff el - berg to the Gorner Grat, 1^ hrs. ; descent, 1 hr. The view, especially from the Gorner Grat, is most sublime and magnificent ; on all sides we are surrounded .by 8now and ice, while over all tower the giant peaks of the Matterhorn (14,705 ft), the Weisshom (14,803 ft), the Rothhorn (13,855 ft), the Gabelhorn (13,633 ft. ), the Mischa- bel (14,940 ft), and the highest point of Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.). Below us is the immense ice -sea of the Gorner Glacier. From Zerrratt we can reach the Gorner Glacier in 1 hr. by following the left bank of the Visp to where the stream issues from the ice. We can return to Zermatt by crossing the wooden bridge, and following a path which soon joins the path to the Riffelberg (see above). To the 5clr-arz-See(8392 ft. ), andHornli(9492ft). Mule-path all the way, 3 hrs. Guide, 6 frs. An exceeding!}' interesting excursion. From the Hcirnli we have a most magnificent view of the Matterhorn. To the Flndelen Glacier, 3 hrs. Guide, 5 frs., unnecessary, unless a walk over the glacier is contemt)lated. To the StafTclnlp (7045 ft), ascent, 2 nrs. ; descent, 1J hrs. ; guide unnecessary. The summit commands a fine view of the Mat- terhorn and the Zmutt Glacier. Most of the other excursions and ascents from Zermatt re- quire good guides, who will supply all the necessary informa- tion that our limited space pre- vents us from giving here. w .fe 49. GENEVA. inthian architecture, but at the same time a blemish on the build- ing itself. The cathedral de- rives its chief interest as being the church in which Calvin preached. The canopy is the same under which he stood, and his chair in the pulpit still re- mains. The interior is gothic, and contains several monuments. The most noteworthy is that of the Duke du Rohan, head of the Protestant faction under Louis XIII. , and a Roman Catholic bishop, who are buried in a com- mon grave. At the W. of the Cathedral, 11 Rue des Chanoines, is the house where Calvin dwelt from 1543 till his death in 1564, (9). He was buried in the cemetery of Plain Palais, but in obedience to his strongly ex- pressed desire, " Let no stone mark my resting-place," the ex- act position of his grave remains uncertain. It is possible that a small stone on the S.W. side having on it the initials J. C. , may mark the place. In this cemetery also rest the remains of Sir Humphrey Davy, who died in Geneva in 1829. Resuming our route we pass on the left the Arsenal (10), (open Thursday, 1 to 4 P.M.), contain- ing a collection of old arms, and opposite is the Hotel de Villc (11), in which is a curious inclined plane, taking the place of a stair- case, up which the councillors rode or were carried on litters to the upper storey. At 40 Grande Rue is the house where Rousseau was born. We now arrive at the Terrace of La Treille, which is beautifully shaded with trees. Beyond the terrace is the Bo- tanic Garden, laid out by the botanist De Candolle in 1816. It was on this spot that the hor- rible massacres of 1794 took place. To the left is the Atheiiec (12), the facade of which is adorned with busts of celebrated Gene vese. It contains an art library, an art exhibition, and industrial mus- eum (Thursday, 1 to 3 P.M. free, other times, 1 fr. ). The University Buildings (13) are on the Bastion Prome- nade. In it are the Library, Archaeological Museum, and Na- tural History Museum. The Public Librm-y, open daily, con- tains 100,000 volumes and many interesting MSS. , including nearly 400 letters of Calvin ; some wax tablets, on which are written some of the household accounts of Philip le Bel ; homilies of St Augustus, written in the 6th cent, on papyrus ; a picture of Ser- vetus, who was burnt by Calvin for doubting the doctrine of the Trinity. It bears the label, " Burnt at Geneva to the honour and glory of God." The Archae- ological Museum (open Thurs., 1 to 4) contains a collection of antiquities mostly found in the neighbourhood. The Natural History Museum (open week-days, 1 to 4 ; Sund. , 11 to 4 ; free, ex- cept Tues. and Sat.) contains a collection of shells, botanical ob- jects, and Swiss animals, among them a trout taken from the lake which weighed 43 Ibs. To the N. W. of the University is the Electoral Palace, a large building used for exhibitions and concerts. Passing into the Place Neuve, we see the handsome New Theatre (14), which was built at a cost of three and a half million francs out of the legacy left by the Duke of Brunswick. Close to the theatre is the Rath .Museum (15), called after its founder (open week-days, 1 to 4, free, except Tues. and Sat., 50 c. ; Sun., free, 11 to 4). It contains a fine collection of pic- tures, which are well worth seeing. Turning down the Rue de Ter- rasse into the Grande Rue, we find the Mnsee Fol (16) (open daily, 90 Route 49. GENEVA. 50 c. ), which contains a fine col- lection of Greek, Etruscan, and Mediaeval antiquities. We now turn towards the river, crossing it at the Place de Bel Air, and make our way to the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame (17). The house near by, inscribed as being the House of Rousseau, is not entitled to that honour. The cathedral, which is not of great interest, is opposite the rail- way station, and those travel- lers wishing to return to the lake can proceed up the Quai des Bergues after crossing the river. EXCURSIONS ToFerney (4m., Tmtie, Hot. de France). An omnibus (50 c. ) runs hourly in summer from the PL Cornavin near the station, by the road to Gex, passing over a height which commands one of the best views of Mont Blanc. At Ferney, Voltaire resided from 1759 to 1777. His chateau, though much altered, still con- tains a few reminiscences of him. In the garden is shown the berceau under which he used to dictate his letters to his secre- tary. The theatre, formerly on the left side of the court, has been pulled down ; the Church, upon which is the inscription, "Deo erexit Voltaire," is now a store -house. At Pr^gny, on the road from Geneva to Ferney, is the splendid villa of Baron Adolf Rothschild, with fine grounds and a pavilion, from which there is a superb view of Mont Blanc. Admission on Tuesdays and Fridays by ticket, to be had at the large hotels at Geneva, gratix. La Joiiclioii, where the waters of the Aarve and Rhone meet, is a pleasant walk of half an hour. The best view is had by following the Rhone, crossing a suspension bridge over the Arve and ascending a path through a wood which brings us to a cliff overhanging the rivers (restau- rant). The effect of the white water of the Arve and the deep blue current of the Rhone, which meet, but do not mingle for miles, is very curious. There is another road to the Jonction along the left bank of the Rhone passing the gas works, and Les Delices, a country house of Voltaire's. Mont Sal&ve is a high ridge of limestone rock in Savoy, the summit of which commands a magnificent view of Geneva, the lake, and the Mont Blanc and Jura ranges. The mountain is ascended to two points, the Petit Saleve (2960 ft.) and the Grand Salfcve (4290 ft.), from which is much the finer view. The highest point is to the W., called Les Pitons (4330 ft), on which is a stone tower. The carriage road goes as far as Minim-tier (8 m., Hot. de la Reconnaisance), from which the Petit Saleve is ascended in J hr., and the Grand Saleve in \\ hrs. Omnibus to Monnetier, 2 frs., from the Grand Quai at 8.30, 11.30, and 6.30 ; donkeys for the ascent at Monnetier, 1 fr. per hour. A shorter route to the Grand Saleve (3 hrs. ) is by tram- way to Carouge. Road to Crevin to the left as far as the railway under which we pass, following the road first to the left and then to the right by a footpath up the Grande Gorge, The range of l*s Voiron s, seen to the N.-K, also commands a magnificent view. Tramway, j hr. to Annemasse, thence \ hr. to Sons. Carriage from Eons to the summit in 3 hrs. To walk, 2^ hrs. In summer an omnibus runs from Bons to the summit 3 times weekly. The Perte dn Rhone, 1 hr. by rail to Bellegarde, where formerly the whole river, when Route 50. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY. low, disappeared in a cleft in the rocks for a distance of over 100 yards, has now lost much of its interest. Extensive blasting has lately been going on, and the river is now always visible. EOUTE L. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY BY LAUSANNE. LAKE OF GENEVA. Railway to Lausanne, 1J to 2 hrs. ; Fares 6.S5, 4.50, 3.20 frs. To Vevey, 2J to 3$ hrs. ; Fares 8.50, 5.90, 4.20 I'rs. To Martigny, 4f to 6 hrs. ; Fares 14, 9.80, 7. 5 frs. Return tickets are available by the steamers, and vice versa. Steamers several times daily to Ouchy (for Lausanne), 3 hrs. ; Fares 5 frs and 2 frs. Vevey, 3J to 4 hrs. ; Fares 6.50 and 2.70 frs. Villeneuve, 4J hrs. ; Fares 7.50 and 3 frs. Jiouveret, 5 hrs. ; Fares 7.50 and 3 frs. Return, tickets at a fare and a half are available for two days only. Good restau- rant on board. For service along the southern bank, see page 97. Steamers also cross the lake from Nyon to Thonon. For sailings see local time-tables. The Lake of Geneva, 50 m. long and 1J to 8 m. broad, con- tains an area of about 260 sq. miles. Its depth varies from 300 to 1000 ft. Through it runs the river Rhone. At irregular pe- riods the lake rises several feet, and again rapidly subsides. This rise is supposed to be owing to atmospheric pressure. In the early summer months it also rises 5 or 6 ft. from the melting of the snows. A curious fact is, that in summer the temperature of the water is nearly 30 deg. colder at the bottom of the lake than on its surface. The lake is never frozen over. The first stopping-place is Versoix (Lion d'Or), formerly belonging to France. Here the Due de Choi- eeul, minister of Louis XV., de- signed the foundation of a city to rival Geneva, but his scheme got no farther than the mapping out of the streets. Coppet (C'roix Blanche) de- rives its interest from the chateau, formerly the residence of Mme. de Sttlel and her father, the minister Xeckar. It is a large plain building, erected on an eminence above the town. The site was formerly occupied by a feudal castle which was burnt by the Bernese, who besieged it in 1536. The inkstand and desk, and portrait by David of Mme. de Stael, are shown to visitors. In a little chapel in the grounds are the tombs of herself and her father. Nyon (Beaurivage, Ange). The ancient castle, with its fine tower, built in the 12th century, was formerly of great strength. Its walls are 10 feet in thickness. A little beyond Nyon, on a pro- montory, is the Chateau of Prangins, formerly the residence of Joseph Bonaparte. From Nyon an interesting ex- cursion can be made to the sum- mit of the DOLE (5500 ft. ). Dili- gence runs to St Cergues in 2^ hrs. (Hot. de la Poste, Hot. Observa- toire, with a fine view), carriage 12 frs. From St Cergues to the summit, 2 hrs. Guide unneces- sary. Magnificent view. Itollc (Tele Noire) was the birthplace of La Harpe, tutor of the Emp. Alexander I. An obe- lisk is erected to his memory on 92 Route 50. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY. an island in the lake. Three miles above the village is the Signal de Bougy (2900 ft. ), which commands a fine view of the lake and Mt. Blanc. Morgues (Hot. des Alpes), with a harbour and ancient chateau, now an arsenal. On the heights above the village is the pictur- esque old Chdteau of Vufflens, built by Queen Bertha, wife of Eudolf II., in the 10th century. Oncliy is the landing-place for Lausanne, which is reached by an inclined railway in 10 min. Trains every hr. Porters in attendance : small packages, 10 c. ; large, 20 c. ; and if over 100 Ibs., 30 c. HOTELS To the right, bor- dering on the lake, is the fine HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE, with beau- tiful gardens. Pension in win- ter. Comfortable second class, Hot. d' Angleterre, opposite the landing. LAUSANNE. Hotels HOTEL RICHMONT, large fine hotel, very comfortable, beautiful gar- den and view. Pension at very reasonable prices in winter. HOTEL GIBBON, also first-class and comfortable ; fine view ; pension in winter. In the garden Gibbon wrote the last chapters of his " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire." FAUCON. Bellevue, Beau Site, smaller, moderate prices. Good Pensions are the Campart, Beausejour, and Victoria. Good Restaurant at the railway station. Omnibus from station, 50 c. Trunk, 50 c. Hotel omnibuses,! fr. Carriages 2 frs. the course. Eng. Ch. Ser. Episcopal, Avenue de Grancy. Presbyterian, Rue Rumine. Wesleyan, Rue du Valentin. Post-Office at the S. end of the Grand Pont. Telegraph office in the Rne du Midi, near the Hot. Richmont. Amusements THEATRE open in whiter and spring, good plays and well frequented. CONCERTS Wednesdays, 3.30 to 5.30 p.m. in the Jardin tie 1'Abbaye de VArc, 1 fr. Thursdays, 8 p,m., promenade, Derriere Bourg, 50 c. Sundays, 10.45 a.m., on the Promenade de Montbenon, free. Sun- days, 10 p.m., in the garden of the Casino Theatre. Organ concert in the Church of St Francois, Mondays, 4 p.m., 1 fr. Excellent Lawn Tennis Club. Reunions thrice weekly. Lausanne (pop. 30,000) is most picturesquely situated on the slopes of Mt. Jorat, and commands delightful views of the lake and surrounding moun- tains. The interior of the town, especially the older portion, is irregular and broken a laby- rinth of crooked, steep, and nar- row streets. The newer portion of the town to the E., however, is well built, and the handsome Avenue Theatre is lined with handsome buildings. The two quarters of the town are con- nected by a fine viaduct called the Grand Pont, or Pont de Pickard, after its builder. Lausanne, offering as it does a bracing and healthy climate, delightful situation, exceptional educational advantages, and cheap living, has become a fa- vourite residence for English and Americans. Over 4000 English- speaking people winter here each year. The Cathedral (ring the bell at the W. portal. Adm., 1 fr. ; tower, 20 c.) was built in 1275, and consecrated by Pope Gregory X. in presence of the Emp. Rudolf of Hapsburg. It is a plain but pure and massive example of pointed Gothic architecture, 333 ft. in length, and 61 ft. in breadth. The S. porch is decor- ated with fine mediaeval sculp- Route 50. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY. 93 ture. The INTERIOR is exceed- ing plain, but of excellent pro- portions. In the left transept is a beautiful marble monument by Bartolini to Harriet Stratford- Canning, first wife of Lord Strat- ford de Redcliff e. From the tower, 162 ft. high, is a splendid view of the lake and the Savoy Alps. Beside the Cathedral is the picturesque Castle, erected in the 13th cent., and formerly the residence of the bishops of Lausanne. It is now the Can- tonal Council Hall. In the College close by is thet'aiitonal Museum (Wed. and Sat., 10-4 ; Sun., 11-2 free ; other times, 50 c. ), which contains a collection of Natural History, Roman remains, and relics from the lake-dwellings. In the Place de la Riponne below, is the Muse'e Arlaud, opposite the corn market. It contains a small collection of pictures, among them several important works by Gleyre, who is generally considered the first among Swiss artists. The house which was inhabited by Gibbon, and in which he com- pleted the later volumes of the " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," stood in the lower part of the town. Both the house and garden are entirely changed. The site of the summer-house, where the great historian used to write, is now occupied by part of the Hotel Gibbon. It was in the gar- den of the hotel that the historian experienced that tender melan- choly which he so affectingly con- fesses in his autobiography : "It was on the day, or rather night of the 27th of June 1787, between the hours of 11 and 12, that I wrote the last lines of the last page in a summer-house in my garden. After laying down my pen, I took several turns in a ber- ceau, or covered walk of acacias, which commands a prospect of the country, the lake, and the moun- tains. The air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon was reflected from the waters, and all nature was silent. I will not dissemble the first emo- tions of joy on the recovery of my freedom, and perhaps the estab- lishment of my fame. But my pride was soon humbled, and a sober melancholy was spread over my mind by the idea that I had taken an everlasting leave of an old and agreeable companion, and that whatever might be the future fate of my history, the life of the historian must be short and pre- carious. " The Blind Asylum was found- ed by Mons Haldimald, a Swiss, who made a large fortune in England. It is under the care of the celebrated occulist, Dr Dufour, whose advice is sought by patients from all parts of Europe. To the W. of the town is the fine new building of the Palais de Justice, completed in 1885. It is the seat of the Federal courts. The Lunatic Asylum and the HOSPITAL, worth a visit, are the largest in Switzerland. The Montbcnon, an eminence to the W. ,laid out in shady walks, affords a delightful promenade with fine views of the lake. It is also used as a drilling ground for the troops stationed at Lausanne. The Signal (2126 ft.), half an hour's walk, commands a fine view of the lake, but Mt. Blanc is hid by the nearer hills VEVEY (pop. 8000). Railway Station to the N. of the town, omnibus to Chexbres Railway Station, see p. 11. Steamboat Piers. At Corsier for the Grand Hotel. At Vevey Marche for the town, and at Vevey la Tour for the Hotel du Lac and Hotel Monnet. From October to May the steamboats only land at Vevey Marche. Hotels. GRAND HOTEL DE 94 O. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY. VEVEY, very fine hotel, most comfortable, beautiful gardens, swimming-bath and hydropathic treatment. HOTEL MOXNETj or DES TROIS COURONNES, excel- lent, fine gardens. HOTEL DU LAC, comfortable and well man- aged, also fine gardens. These three hotels are of the very highest class, beautifully situ- ated on the lake. Pension from October to May at moderate prices. Good second class Hotel d' Angleterre, Hotel Mooser, and Hotel de Leman. Baths on the lake. Post and Telegraph Office, Place de 1'Ancien Post. Eng. t'h. Ser. in the Church of St Clair. An Electric Railway now runs from the Grand Hotel to the Castle of Chillon. Vevey, beautifully situated at the mouth of the little Veveyse, has been immortalized by Rous- seau, who has laid here the scene of his " Nouvelle Heloise." Like Lausanne, numbers of English and Americans take advantage of its delightful climate and charming situation to make it a winter re- sidence. Opposite the Quad Vevey Marche* is the fine Chateau d'Aile, residence of Mr Couvreu. The gardens, with a fine collection of exotic plants, are open to the public, fee 1 fr. In the Chnrch of St Martin, erected in 1498, lie the bones of Ludlow and Broughton, two of the judges of Charles I., who died here in exile. It was Broughton who read the sentence of death to his unhappy sovereign. The site of Ludlow's house is now occupied by the Hotel du Lac. The Cafe Clef on the Grande Place was formerly Rousseau's favourite inn. Near the station is the new Riissian Chapel, with its gilded dome. The interior is richly decorated. The Chateau of Hauteville is a delightful walk of 2 m. to the N.E. Farther on is the old Chateau of Elonay, which has belonged to the Blonay family for centuries. Both chateaux are surrounded by beautiful grounds, and command charming views. The district surrounding Lausanne and Vevey is almost entirely covered with vineyards, which are supposed to have been first planted by the Romans, and great care is exercised in the cultivation and improvement of the grape. At Vevey is a very ancient society for this purpose. In extraordinary wine years they celebrate a festival called La Pete des Vignerons. The last took place in 1865, when 700 people took part, the ballet master of the opera in Paris being employed to drill them in their dances. Clarens (3J m. from Vevey) is a charmingly situated village, made famous by Rousseau and Byron. (HOT. ROY, HOT. ROTH, both good). The villages of Clarens, Charnex, Vernex, Terri- tet, Glion, and Veytaux, lying along the border of the lake, are collectively called Montreux. An immense number of hotels and pensions have been erect- ed at Montreux, of which we have not space to give a detailed list. The pension at most of them is remarkably cheap, varying from 4 to 8 frs. a day. The largest Hotels are the HOTEL NATIONAL, HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE, HOTEL MONNEY at Vernex. HOTEL DES ALPES, HOTEL MONT FLEURY at Territet. HOTEL RIGHI-VAUDOIS, HOTEL VICTORIA at Glion. At Verney Montreux is a fine new KURSAAL, where the band plays daily. From Territet an inclined rail- way runs to Cilion on the hill behind. Fine view. Route 50. GENEVA TO MARTIGNY. At TerrltcMliillon (Hot. des A Ipes, i m. from the pier) is the massive and gloomy Castle of Miil Ion. standing on an isolated rock reached from the shore by a bridge. This mediaeval fortress is one of the most striking features in the scenery of the Lake of Geneva. Amadeus IV. , Count of Savoy, built the castle in 1238. It was at once the defence of his state, an arsenal, and a point from which to undertake new conquests. After two centuries and a half, when the fortune of war had subjected the Valais to the Bernese rule, the castle served as the residence of the Bailiffs of Vevey. In 1733 it was converted into a state prison, and served as such till the revolution of 1778. It is now an arsenal, and in part a prison. It was in a dungeon of this castle that Bonnivard, the heroic defender of Genevan liberty, was imprisoned by the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and languished six years, chained to a pillar. The ring of iron to which he was fastened is still seen, the pillar frayed with the grating of his chain, and the floor worn by the movement of his feet. Bonnivard was the son of Louis Bonnivard, Lord of Lune, and possessor of the rich priory of St Victor, near Geneva. His im- prisonment in the castle lasted from 1530 to 1536, when he was liberated by the Swiss forces under Nogelin. He spent the remainder of his life at Geneva in comfort, dying in 1570 at the age of 74. " Chillon ! thy prison Is a holy place, And thy sad floor an altar; for 'twas trod Until his very steps have left a trace Worn, as If the cold pavement were a sod, By Bonnivard ! may none those marks efface For they appeal from tyranny to God." The Bonnivard, whose suffer- ings here are so graphically described by Byron, was, except the name, entirely a mythical character, as the poet was not aware, at the time he wrote his poem, of the history of the Swiss hero. Besides the dungeon of Bonni- vard there are other cells darker and deeper still, where wretched prisoners were doomed to a living death, having no communication with the outer world except through a hole in their prison vaulting. About a mile from the castle, nearer Villeneuve, is a little island, almost level with the water, on which a lady planted some poplars 100 years ago. It is mentioned by Byron in his " Prisoner of Chillon : " " And then there was a little isle Which in my very face did smile, The only one in view; A small green isle, it seem'd no more, Scarce broader than my dungeon floor : But in it there were three tall trees, And o'er it blew the mountain breeze, And by it there were waters flowing. And on it there were young flowers growing, Of gentle breath and hue." Villeneuve (Hot. de Port, de Ville), the railway station for Martigny and Brieg. Leaving Villeneuve by rail we pass along the level valley to Aigle (pop. 3500, GRAND HOT. DES BAINS, beautiful gardens, pleasant stopping place, pension ; BEAU SITE, MON SEJODB, VICTORIA, all with gardens and baths. Second class, Du Midi, Du Nord. Eng. Ch. Ser. at the Hot. des Bains. ) Aigle is a quaint little town with an old chateau (see Routes XLV. and LXXXV). Bex. (GRAND HOT. DES SALINES, li m. from the station, fine hotel, delightfully situated in charming grounds. Salt and Routed. GENEVA. TO MARTIGNY. fresh water baths. Agreeable stopping place, pension. GRAND HOT. DBS BAINS, beautiful garden, very comfortable. BEL- LEVUE. HOT. ET VILLA DBS BAINS, moderate prices. Eng. Ch. near the Grand Hot. des Bains. ) Bex is much resorted to for its salt baths, the mildness of its climate, and its beautiful surroundings. Three miles from Bex are the large Salt Mines of DevienandBevieux, an interesting excursion. St Maurice (Hot. et Pern. Grisogona). Here the line from Bouveret joins in (see Route LI.). St Maurice, which is a picturesque old town, derives its name from the legend that the Theban Legion under St Maurice were put to death here by the Emp. Maximilian in 302 for refusing to renounce Christianity. The ABBEY, now an Augustinian mon- astery, is the oldest in Switzer- land, having been founded in the 4th century by St Theodore, and afterwards endowed by King Sigismund of Burgundy. The Treasury (shown by special permission) contains several most interesting works of ancient and mediaeval art, among them Queen Bertha's chalice, pre- sented by her in 950 ; an ancient Greek vase of agate ; a vase of saracenic work, and a fine MS. of the gospels, presented by Charlemagne ; also a very fine gold crozier of beautiful workmanship. Perched on a precipice opposite the station and reached by a flight of 410 steps, is the little Hermitage of Notre Dame du Sex (or of the rock). Fine view. Ten min. from the station, above the tunnel, is the Grotte ?; Fees, the dried up channel of a stream leading to a stalactite cave in which are a lake and a cascade. Guides and tickets at the station. Leaving St Maurice, the line approaches the river, and we pass over the scene of a terrible inundation. In 1835 a heavy rainstorm brought down torrents of mud, rocks, and debris from the Dent du Midi, covering the road, fields, orchards, and houses for 300 yds. Fortunately the inhabitants had time to escape. The little hamlet of Evionnaz, a little farther on, occupies the site of the Roman Village Epaunum, which was destroyed in a similar manner in 563. At Yemayaz (GRAND HOT. DES GORGES DE TRIENT, at the gorge, and not to be mistaken for a little Inn in the village), tra- vellers alight to visit the Fall of Pissevache or Sallanclie and the Gorge of Trient. The fall is seen as we approach the station, from which it is dis- tant about f mile. The Pisse- vache, or Bridal Veil, as it is also called by natives, is a beautiful cascade 250 ft. in height, falling over a perpendicular rock into the Rhone Valley. A wooden staircase (adm. 1 fr. ) leads up to the fall and passes behind it. The Gorge of Trieiit ( m. from the station to the left) is a remarkable chasm leading 7^ m. into the heart of the mountain. The finest and only accessible portion of the Gorge is the first, 600 yds. from the entrance. A wooden gallery leads along the face of the precipitous sides, which are from 500 ft. to 1000 ft. in height. The width of the chasm in several places is only a few feet. In a large vaulted chamber called "The Church," the guide fires a pistol which produces an echo like a thunder clap. The water of the stream, which is of a lovely transparent green, varies in depth from a few inches to 50 feet. Tickets of adm. 1 fr., must be obtained at the Hotel. There is ample time between two trains to see the Route 51. GENEVA TO ST MA URICE. 97 falls and the gorge, which are both well worth a visit. Vernayaz is the starting point for the route for Chamonix over the Sal van and Triqmnt. See Route civ. Marlisiiy (HOTEL CLERC, very comfortable ; HOT. DE MONT BLANC) is the starting point for the routes to Chamonix over the Tete Noire and Col de Balme (see Routes Lin. and LV. ), also for Aosta over the Qt. St Bernard and Col de FenQtre (see Routes LVIII. and LIX. ), and is frequented in summer by a large number of tourists. On a hill to the right is the ancient castle of La Batiaiz, built in 1260, and formerly the residence of the bishops of Sion. Path in hr., adm., 50 c. The castle commands a fine view of the Rhone Valley. The large Convent is the headquarters of the monks of St Bernard. (See p. 110). Over the Stanse is an ancient covered bridge. A pleasant excursion (4 hrs. there and back) from Martigny is to the Gorges Iu Duruaiit. (see p. 109). The Pierre A Voir (8123 ft.) commands a magnificent view of the Bernese and Valais Alps. It can be ascended from Martigny in 5 hrs. Descent to Saxon (see p. 120), 3 hrs. , or in a sledge in 1 J hrs. Mule, 10 frs. Guide, 8 frs BOUTE LI. GENEVA TO ST MAUEICE BY THE LAKE OF GENEVA, SOUTH BANK. Steamers to Bouveret thrice daily In 4-5 hrs. Fares 6 frs. and 3 frs. This route should only be taken by travellers who have already seen the North Bank. Leaving Geneva the steamer touches at several small villages of little interest till we reach Thoiion (pop. 5500, Hot. de V Europe, Balances), an old and picturesque town from which a railway runs to Bellegarde. Eviaii (Hot. des Bains ; Hot. Evian, with garden ; Hot. Fon- bonne, formerly an old chateau). Above the lake in the town is the Bath House with garden, from which is a charming view. At the end of the promenade is a small casino prettily situated. Near Tour Ronde is one of the ancient chateaux of the Blonay family. The shores of the lake now become more precipitous and picturesque. Melllerle, a small village at which we touch, was formerly inaccessible except by boat, till Napoleon con- structed the Simplon road. It was here that the lovers St Preux and Mme. Wolmar iu Rousseau's "Nouvelle Heloise" landed to shelter from the storm, and where St Preux remained to be in sight of Heloise's house on the other side. Byron was nearly lost in a tempest opposite this spot. St Glngolph (Paste), situated on either side of the deep ravine of the Merge, lies half in Franco and half in Switzerland. A plea- sant excursion by boat (^ hr. ) can be made to the Grotto of Viviers. The Gorge of the Morge can be followed in 1 hrs. round to Port Valais, 1 m. from Bou- veret (see below). Bonvcret (Hot. Tour), lying in low marshy land, $ m. from the entrance of the Rhone into Route 52. GENEVA TO CHAMONIX. the lake, is the landing place for the railway. One mile distant is Port Faa(seeabove),whichin the time of the Romans was washed by the waters of the lake. A short distance beyond is the pass of La Porte du Sex, where the rock so steeply overhangs the river that the railway has had to be carried round by building an embank- ment into the stream. This point in the middle ages commanded the entrance to the Valais, and was strongly fortified. Passing Vouvry, Colombey, with its large convent, and the sus- pension bridge (210 ft. long) over the Rhone, we reach MONTHEY. Twenty rains, walk from the station (worth seeing)- is the Pierre Suspendue or rocking stone, an immense mass of rock balanced on a base of only a few square inches. SI Maurice, see p. 96. ROUTE LIL GENEVA TO CHAMONIX. 53$ m. Diligence in 9-10 hrs. from Geneva, daily, at 7 A.M., same hour from Chamonix. Banquette, 21 frs. ; coupe", 25 frs. ; return fare, 30 frs. and 45 frs. In fine weather the Banquette is preferable. Fare to St Gervais, 18 frs. ; return fare, 32 frs. Diligences leave from the Place du Lac, on the south side of the town. Carriages, 2 horses with 4 seats, 110 frs., but a bargain can often be made for less (80 to 90 frs.), especially returning from Chamonix. Early and late in the season thetfare .from Chamonix can often be arranged for at much less than the quoted rates. The road to Chamonix passes a succession of pretty villas and gardens, and in 4 m. crosses the little river Foron, which di- vides Switzerland from Savoy. Aiinemassc (4 m. ) is the first French village. No customs. We then approach the Arve and cross its tributary the Menoje over a fine stone bridge. At Nangy (9 J m. ) we make the first change of horses. On the right, after leaving Nangy, we pass the Chateau de Pierre, the residence of an English family. Near Contamines (11^ m.) is the Chateau of Villy, and be- yond to the left on the heights are the ruins of the old castle of francigny. Bonnevllle (17 m. , Couronne), where w again change horses, is the capital of the province. On crossing the bridge over the Arve to the left is a monument, 73 ft. high, to King Carlo Felice of Sardinia, and on the right, is another to the memory of the Savoyards who fell in the Franco- German war. Horses are again changed at Scionzier (25 m. ). Cluses (26 m. , National), with a large trade in watch-making, lies at the entrance to a deep ravine up which we pass. About 3 m. beyond Cluses is the Chalet de la Grotte de Lai me, from which a path leads up to the Grotte de lu Kaliiie, the entrance to which is seen on the face of the cliff above. The Grotto is 1500 ft. deep, and 750 ft. above the road. About three-quarters of a mile into the cavern is a deep pit ; a small cannon fired here produces an overpowering echo. (Adm., including guide, 3 frs.; time there and back, 2 hrs. ) Beyond Mat/land (30$ m.) the Route 52. GENEVA TO CUAMON1X. rocks rise on the left precipi- tously from the valley, and from their crest falls the little Cascade of Arpcnaz. Its waters are lost in spray before they reach the valley. As we approach 8t Martin (36 m., Hot. du Mont Blanc) we have an imposing view of Mont Blanc. Crossing the Arve we reach Sallauclies (36^ m., Hot. des Messageries), where the diligence waits 1 hr. for dinner. Fair table d'hote at the Messageries, 4.50 c. with wine. At the Hotel du Pont dn Bon Nant (41 m.), the diligence stops a few minutes. [From this point the Baths of St Gervais (Large HOTEL) are reached in quarter of an hour. The entrance gates of the grounds are just over the bridge. The baths, to which is attached an immense establishment ac- commodating 400 persons, is beautifully situated in a deep gorge. The village of St Ger- vais (Hotels du Mont Joli, du Mont Blanc) is 2 m. from the Pont de Bon Nant, and 20 min. from the baths. It is a prettily situated health resort.] Leaving the hotel we cross the little Bon Nant. The road here divides, that to the left being the old road, now disused except for pedestrians. The new road, cut by the French Government, at enormous expense out of the face of the mountain, passes up to the right. Tourists who prefer walk- ing can here alight, and reach the Tunnel (3 m. ) fully as soon as the diligence. At the entrance of the tunnel is the small Hotel du Tunnel. In the excavation of the tunnel, an ancient Roman gallery was discovered. The gallery, portion of which remains entire, entirely pierced the moun- tain. Its course is seen in the roof of the tunnel. [Just beyond the tunnel a new road leads to the right in three quarters of an hour to the Gorges of Diosaz (adm., 1 fr.). The Gorges of Diosaz are a succession of deep and gloomy ravines, through which rush seven beauti- ful cascades. Wooden galleries have been constructed along the sides of the rocks, to enable visi- tors to penetrate the recesses of the chasms. The gorges are well worth a visit. ] At Le Lac (47 m., Inn de Montet) the old road which went by Servoz joins in. A new road has been constructed from Le Lac to the Gorges of Diosaz (2 m., see above). The middle road is the Diosaz road. On the right, after leaving Le Lac, the old road ascended the heights of Le Montets. Following the new road along the banks of the Arve, the towering peaks of the Mont Blanc range and the dazzling glaciers now come gradually into view, though their immense height and size can hardly be realized. The first glaciers we pass are those of de Grioz and de Taconay, and then the GLACIER DES BOSSONS whose snow-white base descends quite into the valley. Tourists hav- ing only one day to spend at Chamonix should visit the glacier (see p. 101) before reaching Cha- monix. The visit to the glacier and walk to Chamonix takes about 2 hrs. CHAMONIX. Hotels. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, excellent, nice garden, fine view of Mont Blanc. HOTEL IMPERIAL, HOTEL ROTAL, both first-class. Hotel de Londres, com- fortable second class, moderate charges, view of Mont Blanc. Hotel Mont Blanc, Hotel de I' Union, Hotel Couttel, Hotel des Alpes. Guides. Guides are provided by the Societe" des Guides de Chamonix. Guides are employed hi rotation, travellers having no choice of their guide, ex- 100 Route 52. GENEVA 10 CHAMONIX. cept with the following exceptions : For a course extraordinaire. When a guide speaks the language of the tourist. When the guide has been previously employed. When the traveller is a member of an Alpine club Ladies travelling alone have also their choice of guides. TARIFF. COURSES OEDIXAIHES. Glacier des Bossons and back Montanvert and back *Montanvert, Mer de Glace, Chapeau, and back *Montanvert, Mer de Glace, Chapean, Fle"gere, and back in one day .... Fle"gere and back . Pierre Pointue, 8 fr.; including the Aiguille de la Tour or Pierre a 1'Echelle, 9 fr.; or with the Plan de 1'Aiguille . Col de Balme 8 fr. ; back by Tgte Noire 9 fr. ; or by Barberine incl. Cascades de Barberine, and de Be"rard in one day 9 fr., in two days . 5 fr. Martigny by the Col de Balme 6 fr. or 'fete Noire, or to Ver- nayaz by Salvan 9 fr. Bre'vent by Planpraz 8, by the Fle"gere and down by Planpraz 12 fr. Brevent by Plan Bel Achat 6 fr. 10 fr.. Lac du BreVent 9 fr., Plan Bel Achat . Jardin, and back by the Chap- eau same day 12 fr. With 10 fr. night on Montanvert . Pavilion de Bellevue, Col de Voza, or Prarion Contamines by the Col dn Tricot .... 12 fr. 12 fr. 10 fr. 9 fr. 16 fr. 8 fr. 15 fr. COURSES EXTEAORDINAIRES. Mont Blanc . . .100 fr. Grands Mulets and back in one day 20 fr., in tuo days 30 fr., Grand Plateau 50 fr., Dome dn Gouter 60 fr., Corridor or Bosses du Dromadaire . 70 fr. Counnayeur by the Col de la Brenva 80 fr. ; Cols de Trala- tete, d' Argentiere, de Pierre- Joseph, des Hirondelles 60 fr. ; Cols du Geant, de Trio- let, du Chardonnet . . 50 fr. Aiguille Verte 100 fr., Grandes Jorasses 80 fr., Aig. d' Argen- tiere and du Chardonnet 65 fr., Aig. du Midi 60 fr., Aig. du Tour . . . . 50 fr Glacier Excursions on the Mont Blanc range, above the snow line, per day . . 10 fr. THE CHAPEAU. DESCEND INTO THE VALLEY AND THEN ASCEND THE FLEGERE FOR VIEW OF MONT BLANO AND THE GLA- CIERS. Mules Same prices as for the Courses Ordinaire*, in addition to the guide, who must in all cases accompany the mule. Beautifully situated in a val- To THE MONTANVERT, ACROSS ley 13 miles long by \ a mile THE MER DE GLACE ; DOWN TO wide, from which rise the towering heights and jagged peaks of the Mont Blanc range, with its im- mense ice fields, Chamonix is the most convenient and inte- resting centre for mountain and glacier excursions in Switzerland. The whole trip can be made by Those of which we give descrip- pedestrians in about 10 to 11 hrs. tions are unattended with the If mules are taken, in 9 to 10 slightest risk, even for ladies, hrs. The portion of the way Several days should be spent at from Montanvert across the Mer Chamonix, but if the tourist can de Glace to the Chapeau (1J only spend one day there, the hrs.) must be passed on foot, following is the most interesting To Montanvert, Mer de Glace, to make : and Chapeau, and return to * When a mule is taken for these excursions 2.50 fr. for boy to take the mule down from the mountain and up to the Chapeau. Route 52.- GENEVA TO CHAMONIX. 101 Chamonix, 6 hrs. Guides for this excursion are quite unneces- sary, except for the passage of the Mer de Glace, for which they can always be hired at Montan- vert ; charge, 3 frs. The Mon la 11 vert (Good HOTEL, 6300 ft., 2 to 2^ hrs.), commands a magnificent view ot the Mer de Glace and its surrounding rugged peaks. The path from Cha- monix passes the Hotel Royal, crosses a meadow, and then turns directly to the right up the mountain. Passing the Chalets des Planards we reach half way the little auberge Le C'uillet. The remainder of the ascent is more gradual. When we reach the plateau on which the hotel stands, the whole dazzling extent of the Mer de Glace comes suddenly into view. Op- posite us is the sharp isolated peak of the Aiguille Dru (12,509 ft. ) ; to the right is the Aiguille du Maine (11,200 ft. ) ; to the left is the Aiguille Verte (13,500 ft.) ; in the distance are the Grandes Jorasse (13,800 ft.), Aiguille du, Geant (13,200 ft.), and Mont Mallet (1^,100 ft.). From Montanvert we descend the moraine to the Mer le lilace. Here " it seems as if the waves of a tempest had been seized by, the giant hand of win- ter and fixed indelibly in the fantastic positions they had as- sumed. The glacier extends for 10 miles up the ravine, with a breadth of 1 to 3 miles. The lower portion, called the Glacier de Bois, descending into the val- ley, is split and torn with im- mense crevasses, which do not come in sight till we reach the other side. The glacier for- merly filled the whole gorge, reaching far above the mo- raines or piles of debris on either side, and extending into the valley as far as the village of Des Praz. Of late years it has again commenced to advance. " The passage of the Mer de Glace takes from 20 min. to \ an hour. A little more than half way we come to the Veine Noire, where the surface of the ice is almost hid by debris. After crossing the ice we ascend the moraine and reach the Mau- vais Pas, where we pass round a precipitous slope by steps hewn in the rock. Iron rods attached to the rocks make the path per- fectly safe. From the Maiivais Pas we descend to the Chapcau, a small platform which com- mands the finest views of the bottom of the glacier. Break- fast or lunch may be had at the hut, which is in connection with the hotel at Montenvers. Better and cheaper accommodation, however, can be had lower down at the Hotel du Mauvais Pas. Descending into the valley and passing through the villages of Les Tines and Des Praz, we find to the right the path up to the Flegere(5925ft.). Time for as- cent, and return to Chamonix, 5 hrs. On the summit (5925 ft. ) is a comfortable inn. The view from the Flegere is magnificent, embracing the whole of the Mont Blanc range from the Glacier de Bossons on the right to the Col de Blame on the left, while directly facing us we see the whole extent of the Mer de Glace. Other interesting excursions are to the Glacier des I Jos sons, 3 hrs. there and back. Guide unneces- sary except for crossing the glacier (see below). Tourists only having one day at Chamonix should leave the diligence at the glacier in coming from Geneva (see p. 99). Quarter of an hour after leaving Chamonix, a path leads across the Arve over a wooden bridge. This path leads 102 Routed GENEVA TO CHAMONIX. to the left of the glacier. It is better, however, to keep on the main road till we come to another path (indicated by a flag), which leads up the right side of the glacier. The path ascends the moraine through the wood in 20 min. to a chalet situated on a small plateau, and commanding a fine view of the ice pinnacles and crevasses in the lower portion of the glacier, while we see the rugged face of the upper portion stretching far above us. A long ice grotto (1 fr. ) has been cut in the face of the glacier here. The excursion should be con- tinued by hiring a guide at the chalet (2 frs. ), and crossing the glacier, then descending to Cha- monix by the first mentioned path which passes by the pretty Cascade du Dard. The lit^vi-iit (8274 ft., Inn), ascent, 4 hrs. ; descent, 2J. Guide unnecessary. Two paths lead to the summit. The first (shortest and most interesting for pedes- trians) follows the mule path to the Inn of Planpraz, and thence ascends steeply up the mountain to the left, passing over La Che- minie, a narrow path round a ledge of rock, guarded by a rail- ing like the Mauvais Pas. Mules can only be taken on this route as far as Planpraz. The second path, by which mules can pass the whole way to the summit, leaves Chamonix to the W. and passes the villages of La Molard and Les Mossons, and then ascends the mountain through the wood. The VIEW from the BreVent of Mount Blanc is even finer than from the Fle"gere. Pedestrians should ascend by Planpraz, and descend by this route. A magnificent view of the upper portion of the Glacier de Bossons is had from the Pavilion de la Pierre Pointue (6720 ft. ), Ascent, 3 hrs. Guide unneces- sary. Cross the Arve by the first route given above, then after crossing the bridge across the Nant de Pelerins, take the zigzag path up the mountain to the left. Restaurant at the sum- mit. A longer but most interesting excursion is to the .lard in (9140 ft. ), a small rock rising out of the Glacier de Talef re. A small spring in it gives life to a few Alpine flowers in sximmer, whence its name. The Glacier de Talefre is high above, and to the left of, the Mer de Glace. As guides must be taken, one to each pre- son, a description of the route is unnecessary. Time there and return, 14 hrs. The journey, except for very good walkers, should be broken by sleeping at Montanvert. The Jardin com- mands a most imposing view of the surrounding peaks and ice fields. The Glacier d'Argentiere (see p. 103), passed on the road to Martigny) is the finest and largest of the Mont Blanc glaciers. It is reached from Chamonix in 4 to 5 hrs. ; return, 3 hrs. Carriage can be taken as far as Argentiere, 6 miles. The different routes to the Summit of Mont Blanc need not here be given, as guides are absolutely necessary. The ascent costs about 10 for one person, and 8 each, for two or more. The ascent in fine weather is easily made by good pedestrians, but should never be attempted in cloudy or unsettled weather. Route 53. CIIAMONIX TO MARTIGNV. 103 ROUTE LIII. CHAMONIX TO MARTIGNY OVER THE TETE NOIRE. Carriage Road from Chamonix to Martigny (23 m.), 8 hrs. Two horse carriage, 1 to 2 pers., 50 frs. ; 3 pers., 60 frs. : 4 pers., 70 frs. If a nightie spent on the way, 15 frs. extra. Mules with attendant, 24 frs. Bargain can often be made for carnages at less than these rates. In spite of what is sometimes said to the contrary, both this route and the following route to Vernayez are perfectly safe for carnages. Leaving Chamonix, the road follows the right bank of the Arve, passing through the vil- lages of Les Praz and Les Tines, and on our right the Mer de Glace and Glacier des Bois (p. 101). At Lavanches (5J m. ) a path branches off up the hill to the right leading to the C'hapeau (see p. 101). At Chossallet the path to the Argentiere Glacier diverges (see below). Argentine (6 m., HOT. Cou- RONNE, Hot. Bellevue). The route over the COL DE BALME diverges to the right (see Route 55). Opposite the village is the im- mense Glacier of Argentlerc. [To visit the glacier, take the bridle- path leading up the hill to the right, at the hamlet of CHOSALLKT, f m. from Argentiere (see above). One and three quarter hours brings us to the PAVILLON DE LOGNAN (6565' ft), a small inn where guides can be ob- tained for the glacier. Ten minutes above the inn we have a magnificent view of the crevasses and ice-peaks in the lower portion of the glacier. Half an hour farther on, we reach the Glacier itself, which is here nearly level and free from danger. The ex- cursion can be continued by ascending the glacier to the Jardin, 3 hrs. far- ther. Guide necessary. Lake the Jardin above Chamounix (see p. 102) it is an isolated rock, covered in summer with Alpine flora. The return can be made from the Pavilion de Lognan, by passing the chalets of Lognan and Pendant and striking the path from the Chapeau descending to Lavanches (see above). Guide^desirable.] Leaving Argentiere the road ascends rapidly, and in three quarters of an hour gains the ColdesMontets(tflQft.). Look- ing back we have a fine view (the last) of the valley and the Mont Blanc range, and on the right .the Glacier Dtt Tour. The Col divides the watersheds of the Arve and Rhone. The road now descends through a wild and barren region in 20 min. to the hamlet of Poyaz, where a finger- post indicates a path to the left leading to the picturesque Cas- cade of Bcrard, half an hour's walk up a rocky ravine. At L& Nant we cross the Eau Noire, and reach Valorcliie (three quarters of an hour), with a church, pro- tected by buttresses against the avalanches. Tourists should here send the carriage on to Chate- lard, and visit the fine Cas- cade of Barberlne. Guide, 1.50 c. Time to see the falls and reach Chatelard, 1 hr. The path leads up to the left to a platform built above the falls. The river here plunges down 300 ft. in an unbroken sheet of water. The carriage road is rejoined at the old Hotel Barlerine (now closed), where there is a smaller cascade ontheBarberine, and in quarter of an hour, passing the boundary be- tween Savoy and Switzerland, we reach ChatcIard(HoT. ROYAL DU CHATELARD, Hot. Suisse au Chate- lard), half way between Martigny 104 Route M.CIIAMONIX TO VERNAYAZ. and Chamonix and the junction of the road over the Salvan to Vernayez (see below). Leaving Chatelard we enter a narrow defile overhung with huge precipices, and descend over the MAUYAIS PAS, once dangerous, but now quite safe, through a tunnel called Roche Percee to Tete Jfoire (f hr., HOT. TTE NOIRE). From the hotel the road leads through a dark forest for a short distance, when the valley opens out, and in half an hour we reach Trlent (4250 ft., HOT. DU GLACIER DU TRIEXT, Hot. des Aloes). Looking up the valley to the right we see the Glacier du Trient. The glacier can be reached in 1 lir. Its surface is level and easy walking. Guide unnecessary. At Trient the bridle-path over the Col de Balme joins the main road (see Route LY. ). We now ascend in i hr. to the summit of the ol de Forclas (5000 ft.). Descending (in half an hour), a magnificent view of the Rhone Valley below breaks upon us. Two and a quarter hours more brings us to Martigiiy (see p. 97). The old path (very steep) saves pedestrians three quarters of an hour. ROUTE LIV. CHAMONIX TO VERNAYAZ BY THE SALVAN. Small Chars can only be used on'thls route. Only return chars are obtainable at Chamonix, otherwise one must be telegraphed for to Vernayez, which will meet the traveller at Le Chatelard. Reverse way chars can be obtained for the whole journey at Vernayez. Fares, 1 pers. whole distance, 30 frs. ; 2 pers., 40 frs. Le Chatelard to Vernayez, 20 frs. and 25 frs. Distance, 23 m. Tune, 8J hrs. For portion of route as far as Ic Chatclard (5 hrs.), see Route LUL Leaving Le Chatelard we ascend steeply in windings for three quarters of an hour, be- yond which the road becomes nearly level, affording fine views to the right of Aiguille du Tour and the Glacier du Tour, and below us of the valleys of Eau- Noire and Trient. In If hrs. from Chatelard we reach Fin- li.int (Beloiseav, Pens. Mont Blanc). [A path from here leads in three quarters of an hour to the Hotel du Trient (see above). A boy should be engaged to show the way.] Passing the hamlet of Triquen.1 we reach in 1 hr. the Gorge of Triege (Inn), in which is a fine waterfall. Adm., 1 fr. In three quarters of an hour more we ar- rive at Salvan (HOT. DES GORGES DU TRIEGE, Hot. Union). A path leads in three quarters of an hour to the CASCADE OP DALLEY. From Salvan the road descends in numerous zig-zags to Ycmuyaz (see p. 96). Rmtte'M. CHAMONIX TO SIXT. 105 EOUTE LV. MARTIGNY TO CHAMONIX OVER THE COL DE BALME. Carriage road as far as Trient, thence Bridle-path to Tour, thence Car- riage road to Chamonix. Mule and attendant, 24 frs. Carriage to Trient l-3pcrs. 30 frs.; 4 pers., 40 frs. From Tour to Chamonix, 1 horse carriage, 6 frs. ; 2 horse, 10 frs. Guide (unnecessary), 12 frs. Time, 9 hrs. This is the most picturesque route from Martigny to Chamonix, hut is not nearly so interesting when taken in the reverse direction. For route as far as Trient, 3 hrs. , see Route XLIIL From Trient the bridle-path ascends steeply over meadows and through a forest for 1^ hrs., when it becomes more level. In % hr. we reach the chalets of Herlageres, and in ^ hr. more gain the Summit of the Col de Balme, 5J hrs. 7225 ft., Hotel Sitisse), where we have a magnificent view of the whole of the MONT BLANC RANGE and the Valley of Chamonix. The view is still grander from the white stone (marking the bound- ary between Savoy and Switzer- land), on a knoll a short distance ( J hr. ) from the Inn to the right of the road. [From the Col a path leads in 2J hrs. to the HOTEL TETE Nom (see page 104). Guide unnecessary in settled weather. We ascend to the boundary stone mentioned above, and find there a path which we follow for 10 min., and descend a little to the right, passing in 10 min. several more heaps of stone (on the right), then crossing a brook, along the bank of which we descend to some chalets (10 m.). In half an hour more, al- ways keeping to the right, we reach another group of chalets, and in 20 min. a third. The path from here is easy to follow to the hotel (1 hr.).] From the Col we descend to Tonr in 1J hrs. (Inn du Rivage). On our left is the GLACIER DU TOUR. From Tour there is a carriage road to Argentiere (If m.) and C'hnmoiiix (7| m.). See Route Lm. ROUTE LVI. CHAMONIX TO SIXT OVER THE COL DU BREVENT AND TO GENEVA BY SAMOENS. Bridle-path in 10 hrs. Mule, 18 frs. Guide, 18 frs., unnecessary in fine weather, as the path is well marked. The path leads past the church at the west end of Chamonix to the foot of the mountain, and then ascends in zig-zags through the wood for 1 hrs. to the L/uilleftes (Tavern). Emerg- ing from the wood we climb the mountain side to PLAN PRAZ (Inn), whence the ascent of the Prevent is made (see p. 102). From Plan Praz we reach the summit of the ol de Itn \cnt (8080 ft.) in J hr. , from which we descend into the valley of the Diosaz, crossing 106 Route W.THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC. the river in 1J hrs. by a bridge. We now ascend again in 2 hrs. to the Col d'Anternc (7425 ft.), a gloomy pass terrific in its barren loneliness. Looking back we have a magnificent view of the Mont Blanc range and the Glacier des Bossons. The descent leads past the solitary Lac cCAnterne in 2 hrs. to the Chalet des Fond* and "Eagle's Nest," the summer residence of an Englishman. The path now steeply descends to the junction of the Haut- Giffre and Ruisseau, and into the valley of Les Fonds. Passing to the left the cascade of Houget, we reach in 1 hr. the village of Salvagny. One quarter hr. more brings us to Six* (HOT. DU FEE A. CHEVAL). A delightful excursion is to the For a t'heval (4 m. ; carriage, 8 frs. ; mule with attendant, 8 frs.), a remarkable valley, en- closed in the form of a horse shoe by precipices rising sheer 1000 ft., down which pour numberless cascades when the snow is melting in spring. In the centre of the valley is a monument to the memory of 180 persons who were buried by a landslip from the Tete Noire in 1602. From Sixt a carriage road, (carriage, 6 frs. ) runs to Samoens (4^ m., Inn, de la Paste, du Commerce). From Samoens an omnibus runs daily in 7 hrs. to Geneva. Fare, 5 frs. ROUTE LVII. THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC. CHAMONIX TO AOSTA OVER THE COL DU BONHOMME AND COL DE LA SEIGNE. Generally four days are allowed for the tour 1st., to Cotitamines, 6 hrs.; 2d., to Mottet; 3d., to Courmayer, 6 hrs. Good walkers, however, can reach Courmayer in 2 days by sleeping at Nanl Borrant, 8 hrs., or at La Balme, 9 hrs. The best inn is at Nant Borrant. La Balme to Courmayer, 10 hrs. The last day is spent in driving from Courmayer to Aosta, 24 m. Bridle-path to Courmayer. Guide desirable, but not necessary, except for the portion of the route from the Chalet de la Balme to the summit of the Col du Bonhomme (see below), charge, 3 frs. Guides are not always to be had at La Balme, and it is therefore desirable to hire one at Con- tamines, 6 frs. If employed 2 days, 36 frs. : 3 days, 40 frs. These rates include the charge for his return journey. Carriage road, 24 m. from Courmayer to Aosta. Diligence in 5 hrs. Fares, 5 frs. ; coupe", 6 frs. 1 horse carriage, 18 frs. ; 2 horse, 30 frs. Return carriages can often be had at less than these rates. The tour of Mont Blanc is most interesting, and quite easy for fair walkers. Mules can be ridden over the whole distance between Chamonix and Courmayer. Leaving Chamonix we follow the main road to Geneva for 3J m. , and at the hamlet of La Gria we find a path to the left which crosses the bed of the Nant de la Gria, and leads in f hr. to LES OUCHES (small Inn). We here take the path beyond the church, indicated by a finger- post, and ascend by the brook in 2 hrs. to the Pavilion Uu Bellevne (5950 ft.), an Inn commanding a magnificent view of the Chamonix vallev. We Route 57. THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC. 107 now descend in 20 min. to the hamlet of BIONNASSAY (4365 ft. ). (Another path leads from Les Ouches to Bionnassay over the Col de Voza, but the first named is much the best. ) From Bion- nassay a bridle-path leads in 4 hrs. , and a footpath in 1\ hrs. , to Les Contamines (see below). The footpath leads to the left by the church, and soon joins the bridle- path, along which we continue as far as the hamlet of CHAMPEL (1 hr. ), where we again diverge from the bridle-path to the left, at a fountain, and descend in 20 min. to La Villette, a short dis- tance beyond which we join the can-iaye road from St Gervais, which we follow (turning to the left) as far as Les Cent amines (3855 ft., Hot. du Bonkomme, best; Union, fair Inn). From Les Contamines the peak of Mont Joli (8375 ft. ), can easily be ascended in 3J hrs. Guide, 6 frs. Magnificent view of Mont Blanc. The carriage-road ends f hr. from Contamines at the little chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge. From here the path as- cends to the left through a wood, crossing the ravine of the Bon Nant in 35 min. , and in 10 min. more reaches the hamlet of Xant- Borrnnt (small Inn, fairly com- fortable). Mules can be hired here to the Col Bonhomme, 5 frs. Leaving Nant-Borrant we cross the pasture land, having a view on the left of the Glacier of Trelatete, and reach in 1 hr. the Chalet a la Balme. [Note. Tourists should not at- tempt to reach the summit of the pass without a guide (see directions above).] A rugged path indicated by posts now ascends in f hr. to the PLAN DBS DAMES (6543 ft.), BO. caUed from a lady with her attendants hav- ing perished here in a snow- storm. A cairn marks the spot. In 20 min. we reach the end of the valley, and ascend the first saddle of the pass in ^ hr. Two curious rocky peaks on the right called the Bonhomme (10,140 ft. ) and Bonnefemme (9910 ft.) give the name to the pass. As several guides, in order to save them- selves a long walk, have been known to tell travellers that this is the summit of the Pass, tourists should note that the actual summit is 40 min. farther on. On reaching the summit of the 0! du Bonlioiuiue (8155 ft.), we have a beautiful view towards the valley of the Isere, and of the peak of Mont Pourri (12,420 ft. ). The Col is sometimes swept by most violent hurricanes which raise the dreadful eddies of snow called " Tourmentes. " From the Col two paths lead to Mottet. (a) By C'hapieux, (3 hrs. ), which though the longer, is the safer and easier. The descent to Chapleux takes 1$ hrs. (Inn, du Soliel). Mules can be hired here to the summit of the Col de la Seigne (see below), 5 frs. From Cha- pleux we ascend to Mottet in 2 hrs. [From Chapieux a bridle-path leads in 3 hrs. to Bourg St Maurice, whence a road leads over the pass of Little St Ber- nard to Pre-St-Didier (22 m., see p. 108). If bad weather comes on it is desirable to take this route instead of the following one over the Col de Seigne. ] (b) The second descent from the Col is by the COL DBS FOURS (2 hrs. ) over a steep and rugged path (guide desirable). This path joins the first half hour be- fore reaching Mottet. Mottet (Ancien Hotel, small but clean Inn). Before us rise the peaks of the Aiguille du Glacier and the Aiyuille du Tre- latete with their glaciers. From Mottet the path ascends to the summit of the Col u MONT ROSE, and ZERMATTER HOF, all most comfortable, under the excellent management of Herr Seiler. Hot. de la Paste. ENG. CH. SER. in the chapel near the Hpt. Cervin). Zermatt, one of the most fre- quented Alpine villages in Switz- erland, takes the first rank for the magnificence of its glaciers, which exceed in fgrandeur either those of the Bernese Oberland or at Chamonix. Another of its great attractions is the lofty isolated peak of the MATTER- HORN. Indeed, in no other ac- cessible place in Switzerland does the traveller find himself so thoroughly in the heart of the regions of eternal ice and snow, which in their treacherous beauty have brought death to many a hardy mountaineer ; the little churchyards of the Parish Church and the English Chapel bearing witness to the number of victims who have paid with their lives the penalty of their hazardous ventures. Zermatt is also, how- ever, the centre for a number of delightful and perfectly safe ex- cursions. An excellent relief map of the surrounding district, which tourists should consult, is in the Zermatter Hof. Chief among these excursions is that to the Riffclberg and Corner drat (excellent HOTEL on the Riff el- Alp, and smaller hotel on the Riffelberg (8400 ft.)., 20 min. higher up. ) Porter, 5 frs. Guide unnecessary. Ascent, 3 hrs. ; descent, 2 hrs. From the Riffel- berg to the Gorner Grat, 1| hrs. ; descent, 1 hr. The view, especially from the Gorner Grat, is most sublime and magnificent ; on all sides we are surrounded by snow and ice, while over all tower the giant peaks of the Matterhorn (14,705 ft), the Weisshorn (14,803 ft), the Rothhorn (13,855 ft), the Gabelhorn (13,633 ft. ), the Mischa- bel (14,940 ft), and the highest point of Monte Rosa (15,217 ft). Below us is the immense ice-sea of the Gorner Glacier. From Zermatt we can reach the Ciorner dlacier in 1 hr. by following the left bank of the Visp to where the stream issues from the ice. We can return to Zermatt by crossing the wooden bridge, and following a path which soon joins the path to the Riffelberg (see above). To the Schwarz See (8392 ft ), and Hwrnli (9492 f t ). Mule-path all the way, 3 hrs. Guide, 6 frs. An exceedingly interesting excursion. From the Hcirnli we have a most magnificent view of the Matterhorn. To the Finrtelen Glacier, 3 hrs. Guide, 5 frs. , unnecessary, unless a walk over the glacier is contemrdated. To the Staffclalp (7045 ft), ascent, 2 nrs. ; descent, 1 hrs. ; guide unnecessary. The summit commands a fine view of the Mat- terhorn and the Zmutt Glacier. Most of the other excursions and ascents from Zermatt re- quire good guides, who will supply all the necessary informa- tion that our limited space pre- vents us from giving here. Route S1.ZERMATT ROUND MONTE ROSA. 117 EOUTE LXI. ZEEMATT TO AOSTA OVER THE THEODULE PASS. Time, 15 hrs. Guide, 20 frs. Mules can be taken for the first 3 m., 15 frs. Also from Breuil, on the other side, 2f hrs. below the pass to Chatillon, 5 hrs., whence a DILIGENCE runs twice daily to Aosta, 15 m., In 3 hrs. The route over the Theodule Pass is a most interesting glacier excursion for good pedestrians. From Zermatt we reach the Upper TModule Glade)- in 4J hrs. In crossing the glacier the rope must be used. The glacier is a good deal crevassed, but with this precaution is quite safe. In 1 hr. we reach the summit of the Theodule Pass (10,900 ft.), on which there is an inferior Inn, which is the highest habitation in Europe. From the pass we descend over the Tournache Glacier in f hr., beyond which the path leads down in 2 hrs. to Breuil (Hot de Mont Cervin, comfortable Inn), whence mules can be had to Chatillon. From Breuil the path descends through a wild ravine past (1 hr. ) the GORGE DU GANT, a rocky chasm, in which are several fine cascades, somewhat resembling that at Pfaffers (p. 33). In 20 min.'we reach VAL TOURNACHE (Inn du Mont Rose), from which we de- scend in 4 hrs. through the beautiful Val Tournache to 4 lialillnu. About an hour from Val Tournaches we pass far above us the ruins of a Roman aqueduct on the face of the rocks to the right. Aosta (15 m. ), see p. 112. ROUTE LXII. ZERMATT ROUND MONTE ROSA TO MACUGNAGA. Four days. Guides quite necessary, 10 frs. per day and board. This route, for good pedestrians, is one of the very finest and most interesting of alpine excursions. First day over the Theodule Pass (see above) and Col des Cimes Blanches (9912 ft.) to Fiery (small Inn). Time, 9-10 hrs. Second day, Fiery over the Furca di Betta, (8640 ft.) to Gressoney- Lii-Triiiitc (Hot. du Lyskamm, fair Inn), 6 hrs. Magnificent views of Monte Rosa and Lys- Jcamm. Third day, Gressonay over the Col d'Ollen (9544 ft., Inn) to Algaiia (Hot. Monte Rosa,Jair Inn), 8 hrs. This portion can be ridden on mules. Fourth day, Algana over the TurloPass (9090ft.) to Mjicug. iiaga (see p. 118), 9-10 hrs. 118 Route 63. PALLENZENA OR VOGOGNA TO VISP. ROUTE LXIII. PALLENZENA OR VOGOGNA TO VISP BY MACUGNAGA, MONTE MORO, AND THE SAAS-THAL. VogOgna to Macugnaga, carriage road as far as CEPPO MORELLI (12 m.); one horse carriage, 15 to 20 frs., bargain necessary. A post conveyance runs every morning from Vogogna to Ponte Grande (7 m.), fare 2 frs.; and also from Oomo cTOssola (p. 123) to Pit di Mulera, 2 m. from Vogogna, where connection can be made with the conveyance to Ponte Grande. Good BRIDLE-PATH from CEPPO MOKELLI to Macugnaga, 2J hrs. Macugnaga to Visp, 13 hrs. Footpath only, as far as Mattmark, 3 hrs. Thence Bridle-path to Visp. Pedestrians should break the journey by sleeping at Saas or Mattmark. HORSES from Visp to Saas, 20 frs. ; to Mattmark, 30 frs. GUIDE (necessary) over the Monte Aloro, 15 frs. The Val Aiizasra is one of the finest of the Alpine valleys, affording as it does unsur- passed views of Italian loveli- ness and Swiss grandeur. Tour- ists who do not feel ; equal to the fatigue of walking over the Monte Moro into the Saas Thai should, at least if they have time, proceed as far as Macug- naga, where the surrounding mountain and glacier scenery hardly ranks second to that of Ghamonix, Zermatt, or the Ber- nese Oberland. The Simplon route can either be left at Pallanzeno (p. 123) or Vogogna (p. 123). A good carriage road ascends the valley of Anzasca along the bank of the Anzaio PIE DI MULERA (2 Jm., Inn Cavour). From here the road ascends more steeply, and we have lovely views before us, with Monte Rosa in the distance. Near Calasca (6 m. ) we pass on the right a pretty cascade, and at PONTE GRANDE (7 m., fair Inn) another waterfall Near the village are some small gold mines. Mules may be had here for Macugnaga. Nine and a quarter miles we reach VANZONE (Inn, Chasseurs du Mont Rose), the principal village in the valley. The little chapel, a few minutes' walk, commands a fine view of the valley and Monte Rosa. At Ceppo Morelli (12 m.) the carriage -road ends. A good bridle-path leads in li hrs. to Pestarena (Inn), to which the carriage road will be extended. Approaching Borca (If hrs.) we pass a fine cascade on the left, and a few yards farther on, our first complete view of Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) breaks upon us. Macngnaga, 2i hrs. (5115 ft., HOTEL MONTE ROSA, HOTEL MONTE MORO), is beautifully situated at the base of Monte Rosa, with its four peaks of the Signal Kuppe (14,964 ft.), Zumsten Spitze (15,006 ft.). Hb'chste or Dufour Spitze (15,217 ft.), and Nordend (15,132 ft.). On every side it is hemmed in by snow-clad mountains and fields of ice. The commune bearing the name of Macugnaga consists of six small hamlets, but a few minutes' distance from each other. The principal excursion from Macugnaga, which can be made in about 9 hrs. (Guide, 6 frs.), is first to the Belvedere (2 hrs.), an old moraine commanding a magnificent view of the Macug- naga Glacier, which it divides Route 6 i. ULRICHEN TO DOMO D'OSSOLA 119 into two streams. From the Belvedere, we cross the north arm of the CJlacicr to the chalets of Jazzi, and walk along the moraine to the chalets of Fillar (J hour), from which we again descend on to the glacier, over which we pass to the chalets of the Pedriolo Alp. The passage of the glacier with a guide is perfectly safe, and is most interesting and beau- tifuL Immediately above us are the towering peaks of Monte Rosa, whose precipitous slopes descend 8000 ft. almost sheer down to the glacier over which we pass. From these heights immense avalanches often come thundering down into the ice- bound valley below. Near Ped- riolo are some immense masses of rock which have fallen from the cliffs above. From Pedriolo we descend again along the course of the Anza to Macugnaga. From Macugnaga a rather fatiguing climb of 4 hrs. brings us to the summit of the Pass of Monte Moro (9390 ft.). (The top of this pass is reached with greater ease from the re- verse direction, as mules can be ridden the greater part of the ascent. ) The highest point of the pass is marked by a cross. The view is marvellously grand and beauti- ful, and unsurpassed in Switz- erland. Descending past the Thdliboden Glacier we reach in 1 hrs. the HOTEL MATTMARK (comfortable Inn), near the little Mattmark-See, where pedestrians coming from Visp and intending to cross the Monte Moro should spend the night. Passing the lake we have a magnificent view of the Allalin Glacier on the left. As we approach Saas we see on the right a beautiful cascade on the Almagel. Saas-im-Grand (1 hr., 5125 ft., Hot. Monte Moro, moderate Inn), is the principal village in the Saas-T/Ml. The SAAS-THAL is a beautiful and romantic valley, and not enough known to tourists. Indeed, but few of the valleys in Switzerland can rival its wild and rocky scenery, foaming cascades, and the sublimity of its alpine views. [From Saas a bridle-path leads in three quarters of an hour to Fee (5900 ft., Hotel du Dome, comfortable Inn), magnificently situated in an amphitheatre of glaciers. Visitors to Saas should not missascendingtoFee.] From Saas, Stalden is reached in 1 hr. Thence to Visp, see p. 121. ROUTE LXIV. ULRICHEN TO DOMO D'OSSOLA. Two days' excursion, spending the night at the Falls of Tosa. Bridle-path to the falls of Tosa, 6 hrs., thence to Foppiano, 3 hrs. Guide desirable to the other side of the glacier, 6 frs. Horse the whole distance, 20 frs. Carriage-road from Foppiano to Domo (TOssola, 18 m., one horse carriage, 20 frs. ; from the Falls of Tosa to Domo d'Ossola, 30 frs. This is a most delightful and cross the Rhone in a few minutes interesting excursion and not and enter the EIGINENTHAL, cross- over-fatiguing. Ulriclieii, see ing the Eiginenbach above a fine p. 78. Leaving Ulrichen we cascade 80 ft. high. In 1^ hrs. 120 Route Q5.MARTIGNY TO LAKE MAGGIORE. we reach the IloJimnd Alp (5720 ft.), from which the ascent be- comes steeper. Before us rises the Nufenenstock (9390 ft.). In half an hour we cross the stream and see before us on the right the Gries Glacier. Following the course of the brook we reach in 20 min. the chalet of Altstaffel, the highest dwelling in the pass. Taking the path to the right, in 1 hr. more we reach the Gries Glacier, a level ice field, which we cross in 20 min. The path is marked by poles planted in the ice. Beyond the glacier we keep to the right, and passing a glacier lake reach the Gries Pass (8027 ft.), which forms the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. The scenery around is rugged and barren, but in clear weather we have a magnificent and ex- tensive view. A rather steep descent of 2 hrs. into the upper portion of the Val Formazza brings us to the Falls of Tosa (Hotel de la Cascade, small Inn), one of the most picturesque of the alpine waterfalls. The river Tosa, nearly 30 yards wide, here falls over the edge of a precipice, down 1000 ft. The upper portion of the fall is broken by the ledges of the rock till it takes a final plunge of 540 ft. Above the fall, the river is crossed by a bridge, near which is a small chapel and the Inn. The finest view of the falls is had by descending to the left for J m. , and climbing a rock beside the bridle-path. Below the falls the Val For- mazza proper begins. Passing several small villages we reach in H hrs. Aiidermatteii. For route over the Albrun Pass to Viesch, see p. 78. Below An- dermatten we pass through the romantic Gorge of Fopplaiio in 1 hr. to Fopplaiio, where we join the carriage-road to Domo d'Os- sola. From Foppiano the scenery changes, and in its rich Italian beauty forms a delightful con- trast to the rugged mountain wildness we left behind us. Below Preutla (6 m., Inn Angela) we enter the beautiful VAL ANTIGORIO, which is unsur- passed in loveliness among the valleys of Piedmont. At Crodo (11 m., Inn Leone D'Oro) is the Italian Custom House. At the BRIDGE OF CRBVOLA (15 m.) we join the route from the Simplon (p. 123), and reach Domo d'Os- sola, 18m. (p. 128). EOUTE LXV. MARTIGNY TO LAKE MAGGIORE OVER THE SIMPLON. Railway from Martigny to Brieg (48 m.), 2 to 3 hrs. Fares 11.85, 7.90, 6.30 frs. Diligence from Brieg over the Simplon to Pallanzct and Intra, twice daily, 1st May to 30th Sept. ; once daily, 1st Oct. to 30th April, in 13 hrs.; Fares Coupe and banquette, 20.30 c.; Interior, 16.80 c. To Domo d'Ossola, in 9 hrs., 6.30 and 10.80 frs. For Steamers on Lake Maggiore, see p. 145. Saxon, 5 m. (HOTEL DBS cutaneous diseases. It has a BAINS), is a small watering-place Kursaal, with conversation, read,- frequented by sufferers from ing, and ball rooms. Route 65.MARTIGNY TO LAKE MAGGIORE. 121 Sion (15m., HOT. DE LA POSTE, Hot. Lion d'Or). For route from Thun over the Rawyl, see p. 82. To the N. of the town, situated on three small hills, are three ancient castles, two of which are in ruins. The highest, that of Tmirlillion, commands a fine view of the valley. Built in 1492, it was formerly the residence of the bishops. In the Castle of Valeria is the Old Cathedral, in which is a votive chapel to St Catherine, founded in the 9th cent. ; some frescoes and a fine rood loft of the 13th cent. In the town is the modern Cathedral and the old prison of Tour de la Force, in which criminals awaited their execution, in the neigh- bouring Rue de Chateau. Only sixty years ago, two men and a woman were beheaded here with the sword. Sierre (25 m., HOT. BELLEVUE, Hot. Poste), a curious mediaeval town containing little of interest. Near the river is the old castle of Vieux-Sierre, commanding a fine view. Leiik-Siisten (30 m., Hot. de la Souste). For route over the Gemmi Pass by the Batfis of Leul; see Route XLIII. Turfman or Tourtemagne (34 m., Hot. Poste, Hot. Lun d'Or), so called from a curious round tower of unknown origin. It is now a chapel. \ m. from the town on the Turtman is a fine cascade. Vlnp (42 m. HOT. DE LA POSTE, HOT. SOLIEL, Hot. des Aloes), is the starting point for Zermatt and Monte Rosa, see Routes LX. and LXIII. In Visp are the old chateaux of many rich and noble Swiss families, who have long since passed away. Its two churches are large and handsome. Visp was nearly destroyed in 1853 by an earthquake, the effects of which can still be seen. Looking up the valley we see the beautiful snow peak of the Sal- frm (12,500 ft.). Brieg (48 m., HOT. DES COUR- ONNES, Hot. d' Angleterre). For routes over the Furca and by the Bellalp, see Route XLII. Like Visp, Brieg has many remains of the old Swiss mansions, the most important of which is a large building with three cupolas, for- merly the residence of the power- ful Stockalper family. There is but little of interest in Brieg itself, and travellers over the Simplon not intending to make excursions from Brieg, should remain over night on the Lake of Geneva or Martigny, where the hotels are much more comfortable. A train leaves in the morning, in time to catch the diligence at Brieg. Interesting excursions can be made from Brieg to the summit of the SI;II-K uliorii (9890 ft.), ascent easy in 3 hrs. Guide, 4 frs. ; view is magnificent. To the Hotel Bellalp (see p. 78) in 5 hrs. ; guide, 5 frs. ; horse or mule, 15 frs. ; chairs, 6 frs. each porter. The magnificent road over the Simploii was constructed by the first Napoleon as a military road into Italy, to save, in case of an invasion of that country, a re- petition of his disastrous passage of the St Bernard. Its construc- tion took six years, and cost over eighteen millions of francs. The ascent begins directly on leaving Brieg. Ordinary walkers can reach the Hospice as soon as the diligence. Several short cuts can be taken which materially lessen the distance, but some are difficult to follow, and on the whole it is better to keep to the main road. Half a mile from the town the old road from Gliss joins in at the lofty covered bridge over the Saltine. The road here turns sharply to the L. and takes a 122 Routed. MART1GNY TO LAKE MAGGIORE. long sweep to the village of Schluch, 2| m. , where is the First Refuge (3560 ft.), and then winds up the side of the wooded hill to the Second Refuge (4430 ft., 5 m., Inn). All along this portion of the ascent we have lovely views, looking across the Rhone valley, of the Sparrenhorn and Grosse Nesthorn, and the glaciers lying below them, and high above Brieg we see the Hot. Bellalp. As we near the Second Refuge we see in front of us, far up the valley, the Kaltwasser Glacier, and im- mediately below it, the road as it approaches the summit of the pass. The road is now level as far as the Ganter Bridge (7^ m. ). This point is one of the wildest in the pass, and is swept in winter and early spring by terrific avalanches. From the bridge the road ascends to Berisal (5000 ft., Third Re- fuge, Hotel de la Paste), a beauti- fully situated village command- ing fine views of the Bartelhorn (10,500 ft.) and Wasenhorn (10,730 ft.). The scenery in- creases in grandeur and beauty as we approach the Fourth Re- fuge (11 m., 5650 ft.). Before us we see the summit of the pass over which towers the Fletchs- horn and the Rauthorn with their glaciers, and looking back we have a magnificent panorama of the peaks of the Aletschhorn and Nesthorn, and portion of the great Aletsch glacier. We now pass through the first gallery of Schalbet (95 ft. long), and reach the Fifth Refuge (13J m., 6360 ft.). The scenery from here to the summit is wild and desolate in the extreme. "The eye wanders over snow and glacier, fractured rock and roaring cataract, relieved only by that stupendous monument of human labour, the road itself, winding along the edges of pre- cipices, penetrating the primeval granite, striding over the furious torrent, and burrowing through dark and dripping grottoes be- neath accumulated masses of ice and snow." Johnson. A little beyond the Fifth Re- fuge is the Kaltwasser Glacier Gallery, over which pours a cas- cade formed by the glacier stream. The falling water can be beauti- fully seen through one of the openings in the gallery. Passing through two more galleries we reach the Sixth Refv,qe (15 m. , 6540 ft.). The Summit of the pass (6595 ft.), a short distance further on, is marked with a cross. Three quarters of a mile from the summit brings us to the Hospice, founded by Napoleon, but not completed till it was pur- chased by the Monks of St Ber- nard, to whom it now belongs. It is a large plain stone edifice, containing a drawing-room, re- fectory, chapel, large kitchen, and a number of bedrooms. Ac- commodation for travellers is furnished gratis by the monks, but tourists are of course ex- pected to leave a donation for the Hospice in the box in the chapel. This amount should at least equal what would be paid for the same accommodation at a hotel, but we regret to have to draw the attention of travellers to the unpleasant fact that both here and at the Great St Bernard (p. 110) the total amount given is wretchedly small, and not half sufficient to cover the actual expense incurred by the Hospice. To accept the hospitality of the Hospice and contribute nothing to its support must surely be the height of meanness. Several fine St Bernard dogs are kept at the convent, to keep up the breed for the St Bernard Hospice. Leaving the new Hospice we pass on the R. the Old Hospice, which was built by one of the Route G5.MARTIGNY TO LAKE MAGGIORE. 123 Barons of Stockalper (see p. 121), and the Seventh Refuge (18 m.), and crossing the Krummbach reach Slmplon (21 m., 4860 ft., Hot. de la Paste, Hot. Jfletshhorn), where the diligence stops for dinner. Leaving Simplon the road de- scends along the Laquinthal, and beyond the Gallery of Algaby (2-3 m.) enters the Ravine of 4.iiV;ii(iiiuii>rr (14 m.) is the large KrjRHAUS WALDHAUS- FLIMS with dependence Villa Belmont, a pleasant summer resort delightfully situated in beautiful grounds near the Flim- ser-See. Baths in the lake. In the town is the HOTEL SEGNES, comfortable. Skirting the deep and picturesque ravine of the LAAXER TOBEL, and passing LAAX (16i m., Hot. Seehof), we descend into the valley of the Rhine, and reach Ilanz (20 m., Hotel Oberalp, comfortable, Hotel Lukmanier), the most ancient village in the Upper Rhone Val- ley, beautifully .situated on both banks of the river. Ilanz was formerly the residence of many noble Swiss families, whose fine mansions are now fast falling into decay. The second diligence stops here 1 hr. for dinner. For route from Ilanz to Elm over the Panixer Pass, see Route xxv. A magnificent view of the Grisons Oberland and the Todi range is had by ascending the Piz MTJH- DAUS (6675 ft.), 3 hrs. Guide desirable, 6 frs. [From Ilanz a diligence runs daily in 4 hrs., fare 3.30 c., through the picturesque Lugnetz Valley to Vals-PlatZ, 14 m. The scenery in this valley is exceedingly fine.] From Ilanz we still follow the left bank of the Rhone. Beyond Ruis (22^ m. ), on the right, are the ruins of the castle of Jorgen- l>ei-g, formerly a stronghold of banditti. Above us, also to the right, towers the Brigelser Horn ( 10, 663 ft. ). Before reaching Ta- ranasa (27 m. , Inn Kreu:) we cross the Rhine, and passing Zignau (30 m. ), again cross the river over the Re>ikenJterg Bridge, where we have a lovely the valley. Beyond the bridge, we pass on the right the chapel of St Anna, which was built to commemorate the formation of the "Grey League" in 1424. This league, which took its name from the grey homespun gar- ments of its members, was formed by the Grisons confederacy, to throw off the yoke of the tyran- nous bailiffs (see p. 127). The oath was taken on the spot where the chapel stands. This oath has since been renewed from time to time, the last ceremony taking place in 1778. In the chapel are two frescoes representing the Route &.LANDQUART TO 1>A 131 f ormation of the league, and the renewal of the oath in 1778. Just beyond the chapel we reach Trims (32 m., Hot. Cou- ronne, comfortable ; Hot. Zum Todi). The first diligence stops here 1 hr. for dinner. Passing Rabins (33| m. ), we catch a glimpse on the left, up the wild Val Somvix of the lofty peak and glaciers of the Piz Gaglianera (10,245 ft.). Beyond ed( 10,610 It. ), Piz Murterol (981(5 ft. ) and Piz del Ras (9960 ft.) on the right, and the triple peaks of the Piz Madi (9595 ft. ) before us. Sus (44 m., 4688 ft, Hotels SckuoeizerlM/, lihwtia, Fluela), on the river Inn. Above the village are the ruins of a Roman fortress. LAS xi (46 m., Hot. Post, Hot. SteMoeJe). To the north is the Piz Liiwrd (11,210 ft.), and the icy slopes of the iSitvretta. AKDETZ (51 m., Hotels, Sonne, Krone, Kraut), with the ruins of the castle of Steiiisberg. [From Ardetz a carriage road leads to I ctiiiii (5404 ft., Hotels Victoria des Alpes), a health resort situated high above the Inn valley. Fettan can also be reached from Schuls (see below) in 3 m.] Leaving Ardetz we cross the VaJl Tasiia and descend the deep and wooded valley of thu Inn. On the right we pass the picturesque Val JPlavna and ft.), and farther on TAEASP with its picturesque castle. St- huls (58 m., 3970 ft, the tine old castle of Naudersberg. Hotels, OLD BELVEDERE with fine garden; NEW BELVEDERE, both lirst class and comfortable ; HOTEL POST ; Hot. Piz Ckiam- patsc/i, Hot. Helvetia) a beauti- fully situated watering place witli saline, sulphureous and chalybeate springs. [One mile from Schuls are the Kadis of Tarasp (KUKHAUS TAEASP, tine large Hotel and bathing establishment. Eng. Ch. Ser. ). The springs are chaly- beate and saline, and have much the same properties as those at Vichy, Kissingen, and St Moritz. Overlooking the inn is the castle of Tarasp, the residence of the Austrian governors down to 1803. Half a mile above Tarasp is the village of \ulj>Krtt.(Penti.j3ellevue, Pens. Alpenrose and Tell, Pens. Steiner), a prettily situated health resort. J Leaving Schuls we pass through beautiful scenery to REMUS (5 m.), at the entrance to the deep ravine of Wraunka-Tobel. The village was almost entirely de- stroyed by fire in 1880. Above is the ancient castle of Tschanuff, built by the Romans in the reign of Vitellius, and burnt by tne Austrians in 1475. Beyond Remus the valley narrows to the romantic gorge of la Plata Mala. On the right we pass the narrow Val d' Assa and the pretty cascade of the Piz Pisoc, and on the left rise the peaks of the Muttler (10,825ft) and the Stammer- Spitz (10,680 ft). MARTINSBHUCK (11 m., Inn Posta) is the last Swiss village. We now cross the Inn into Austrian territory. Beyond the bridge is the Austrian Custom House, on the left are the ruins of the castle of Serviezel. The new road to Naudera leads to the left, but the old road to the right is shorter and more picturesque. Nauders (16 m., 4470 ft, Hotels Post, Liiive), with 134 Route -Q.COIRE TO DAV08. From Nauders a diligence runs twice daily in 5| hrs. to LAN- DECK (27 m. ) on the new line from Bregenz (p. 21) and Eb c. ; coupe" or banquette, 21.80 c. Extra Post, via Churwatden, 2 horses, 100 frs. ; 3 horses, 150 frs.; 4 horses, .'mi frs. Via the Schyn Pass, 149.60 c., 204frs., 248.50 c. Carriages. Via Cliurwalden, 2 horses, 100 frs. ; 3 horses, 150 frs. ; 4 horses, 200 trs. Via the Schyn Pass, 110 frs., 160 frs., 210 frs. The fare for a carriage for four persons is cheaper than the diligence. Besides this, the charge for luggage is saved, and the carriage can be ordered for any hour. A carriage, however, cannot make the journey in one day. A night must be spent at one of the post stations. From Coire by CBURWALDEN to Brienz, see Route LXX. Beyond Brienz the Albula road branches off to the right, and in 3^ m. reaches Bad Alveneu in the Albula Thai (comfortable HOTEL and KURHAUS), a water- ing-place, with sulphur springs. From Coire to Bad Alveneu over the Schyn Pass, see Route LXXIII. This latter route though longer, is much the more pictur- esque. Beyond Alveneu we pass on the right a pretty cas- cade descending from the Schaf- tobel, and in 1 m. cross the Landwasser. Fi I is ii i- (2m. , Hot. Schonthal). Above, on our left, are the ruins of the castle of Greifenstein. Now descending to the Albula, which we cross over a covered wcoden bridge, we again ascend the densely wooded valley, pass ing BellaluTia (4 m.), and reach the Bergiiner Stein (f>i m. ), a wild gorge through which the road is hewn out of the face of 136 Route 73. COI RE TO SAM ADEN. the rock. The impetuous Albula, 600 ft. below us, is hardly visible. Before us, to the right, are the peaks of the Tinzerhorn (10,280 ft.) and the Piz d'Aela (10,985 ft. ). Emerging from the gorge we find ourselves in a beautiful green basin, in which lies If ergiiii (4560 ft. ,7m., Hotels : Piz AELA, Krone. Kreutz). The diligence halts here for dinner. Bergun has a fine old Romanesque church and a curious prison tower. Still ascending, and passing the ham- let of Nay (5725 ft, 10 m.), near which is a cascade on the Albula and the small Lake. Pal- puogna, we reach the small Kurhaus Weissenstein (13 m. ), at the base of the Grimsels (9625 ft. ), beyond which a steep ascent brings us to the wild Teiifdsthal, or "Devil's Valley," which is strewn with rocks brought down by the avalanches. The scenery here is exceedingly weird and savage. At the small Houjjl'? we reach the summit of the Albula Pass (7595 ft., 16J m.), a marshy tract situated between the peaks of the Crasta J/om (9636 ft. ) on the right, and the AlbulaAorn (10,740 ft.) on the left. The road now descends in long windings. Before us is the pyra- midal peak of the Piz Mezaun (9730 ft. ). To the right are the Piz Lavirum (10,020 ft. ), the Piz Cotschen (9986 ft.), and in the distance the Piz Languard (10,715 ft.). Ponle (21 m. , 5548 ft. ). Ponte to Samaden (25 m. ), see p. 140. ROUTE LXXI1I. COIRE TO SAMADEN BY" THE JULIER. Two routes lead from Coire to the Juliet Pass, joining at Tiefenkasten (see below). The first leads by Churwalden (17J m.), and the second over the Schyn Pass (25 m.). Diligence to Samaden by CHCRWALDEN (51J m.), daily, in 1-3J lire. ; Fares 20.75 c. ; coupe or banquette, 24.90 c. By the SCHTN PASS (59 m.), in 14 hrs.: Fares '22.7-5 c.; coupe or banquette, 27.50 c. To St Iforitz by Churwalden, 18.90 c., 23.30 c. By the Schyn Pass, 20.85 c., 25.25 c. Extra Post by Churwalden, 2 horses, 145.10 c.; 3 horses, 196.50 c.; 4 horses, 238.50 c. By the Schyn Pass, 160.40 c., 219 frs., 267 frs. To St Moritz by C/iurwatden, 136.70 c., 184.50 c.. 223.50 c. By the Schyn Pass, 152 frs., 207 frs., 252 frs. Carriages to Samaden by Churwalden, 2 horses. 100 frs. ; 3 horses, 150 frs., 200 frs. By the Schyn Pass, 110 frs., 160 frs., 210 frs. To St Moriti, 100 frs., 150 frs., 2i)0 frs. By the Schyn Pass, 110 frs., 160 frs., 210 frs. The route by the Schyn Pass, though 7? m. the longer, is much the more pic- turesque, and affords an opportunity, by staying two or three hours at Thusis of visiting the magnificent scenery of the Via Mala (p. 127). (a.) Route by CHURWALDEN as far as LENZ (14^ m. ), see Route LXX. From Lenz the road descends in windings to the picturesquely situated village of Tiefcn Kasten (3 m., HOTEL JULIER, HOTEL ALBULA, Hot. Kreuz), which is built on the site of the Roman camp of Imum Castellum. The church is built over the ruins of the ancient castle of Ima Castra. Below the village is the junction of the Oberhalbstein branch of the Rhine with the Albula. (b. ) Route by the SCHYN PASS Route 13. C01RE TO SAM A DEN. 137 as far as THUSIS (see Route LXVI. ). Leaving Thusis and passing the entrance to the Via Mala (p. 127) we enter the magnificent gorge of the Scliyu Pass, through which runs the Schyu Strassc, constructed in 1869. The road is carried through the pass by a series of tunnels and cuttings in the face of the precipices. The most picturesque point in the gorge is where the road crosses the A Ibula over the Sous BRIDGE, '250 ft. above the stream. Stones dropped into the abyss fall with noise like a cannon shot. The Summit of the Pass is reached at ALVASCHEIN (7%m.), opposite the village. On the right is a pretty cascade. A descent of 1^ in. brings us to Tiei'cn Kastcii (see above). From Tiefen Kasten a steep ascent along the edge of the precipice of Stein (3596 ft. ) brings us to the fertile and populous >-alley of Oberhalbstein (4| m.). Above TINZEN (7|m., 4230 ft., Inn Tinzerlwrri) are several pretty cascades on the Julia.. Now passing through several wild ra- vines we 'reach Moliiis (11^ m., Hotel LiJive, comfortable Inn), where the diligence halts for dinner. Prom this point to STALLA (18^ m. , Inn), we have a succession of grand landscapes. On a wooded height, in the middle of the valley, we see the square tower of the castle of Spludastck, from which there is a tine view. Three miles from Molins are the ruins of the castle of Marmorera, half- way up the height. After pass- ing Stalla, the road turns to the eastward, and we begin the ascent of the Julier in numerous zig-zags. Two hours are occu- pied in reaching the smiimil of the Jiiller (7500 ft., 23 m.), where we see two columns of mica slate, 5 feet in height, supposed by antiquaries to be milestones erected by Au- gustus during the construction of the Roman road from Chia- venna to Coire. Roman coins have also been found here. Near by is a small lake. Thousands of sheep from the Italian side are brought every summer to graze on the slopes of the Julier. A mile below the summit is the Julier Alp. On the left are the Piz Julier (11,106 ft.) and the Piz d' Albana (10,170 ft.), and on the right the Piz Pulaschin (9900 ft. ). The views of the snow-mountains of the Bemina which we obtain in the descent are magnificent. Imme- diately in the foreground are the Piz Surtej (10,455 ft.) and Mount Arias, above which we see the Piz Tschierva (11,713 ft.) and the Piz Morteratscli (12,315 ft.), and on the right the Piz lieriiiiia (13,295 ft), the highest peak of the range, and still farther to the right the Piz Corvatsc/t (11,345 ft. ), while lower down we see the whole valley of the Upper Engadine from St Moritz to Sils-Maria. A winding descent of 4 m. brings us to Silvaplaiia (27^ m.). Silvaplana to Suiiia- FJ:S. above) the road ascends through vineyards. On the left is the Piz Afasuccio (9245 ft), from which an enormous landslip fell in 1807, damming up the valley of the Adda, and converting it into a lake. At Mazzo (5 m. ) we cross the Adda, afterwards the Ro- asco, and again cross the Adda beyond Grosio, soon after which we reach Bolladore (/ .- Posta). Five miles beyond Bella - dore, the defile of La Serra di Morignone, a mile in length, separ- ates the Valteline from the terri- tory of Bormio. At the entrance to the defile are the remains of an old fort. At the Ponte-del- Diavola, Garibaldi had a skirmish on the 26th of June 1859 with the Austrians. Passing a hamlet we enter, beyond the village of Cep- pine, the valley of Bormio, en- closed by wooded mountains, partially covered with snow. Crossing the valley we soon reach Bormio (25^ m. (Inn Posta), a little town at the en- trance of the Val Furva, from which village we ascend by the new road to the Baths of Bormio (27i m. ), a handsome building which commands a fine view of the valley and surround- ing mountains. Three quarters of a mile above the new baths are the Old Baths. Both estab- lishments are well fitted up, and contain reading, concert, and billiard-rooms, and restaurants. The waters are prescribed in cases of gout, rheumatism, hy- steria, scrofula, and cutaneous diseases. From the new baths the road ascends to the old baths giving us beautiful retrospective views of the valley. On our right, look- ing back, rise the Piz de Colom- bano (9940 ft.), the Cen-ia di Piazza (11,710 ft. ), and the Piz Redasco. To the left are the Cime de Gobefta and the Piz Tresero. The old baths lie a little below the road to the left. Be- yond the old baths the road is protected from avalanches (which are very frequent in winter and spring), by a succession of gal- leries. At St Maria, 34 m. (Inn) is the Italian custom house. On our right are the immense Ebe/t and Stelvio ylaciers. A short dis- tance farther on is the summit of the Slclvio Pass (9045 ft), which is rarely free from snow. A column on the right marks the boundary of Italy and Austria. Half mile to the north is the Swiss frontier. As we descend in long zig-zags we have fine views on the right of the peaks of the Geisterspitze (11,355 ft), and the Twl-ettsjjit:e (11,400 ft). Franlczenshoke (7160 ft, Inn Wallii-ofer) is the next village. Two m. further on, we pass the spot where Madam de Tourville, an English lady, was supposed to have been murdered by her hus- band, by throwing her over the cliff. From the Weisse Knott, a small platform, a little farther on, we have a splendid. VIEW. To our right is the Madatsch Glacier, to the left is the Trafoier Glacier, over which rise the Pleisshoni and the Ortler (12,815 ft). Be- fore us is the Madatschspitz. In the distance to the north is the lofty snow peak of the Weisskugel. Passing TRAFOI, 45 m. (Inn Post), we follow the course of the rapid Trafoi-Bach to Prad (53 m., Inn Neue Post), lying at the foot of the pass. At Spondiiiig (55 m. ), the road branches off to Kyrs, to which the diligence runs. From Spondinig the Nauders road keeps to the left, passing the castles of Lichtenburg and Chur- burff. Mais (61 m., Inn Post). To the left of Mais is Ghirns, which we pass on the route from Zer- netz through the Munster Thai to Mais. (See p. 141.) The scenery as we ascend v to ST Route 78. LAKE MAGGIORE. 145 VALENTIN (4695 ft., 69 m.), Inn Post), is exceedingly dreary and uninteresting. Passing the Glit- ter-See and Resclien-See, we have a magnificent retrospective VIEW of the Ortler range. Beyond Reschen we reach the summit of the Resclien-Scbeirtcck (74m.,4900 ft.), which divides the watersheds of the Black Sea and the Adriatic. A descent of 4 m. brings us to Naiirters (79 m. ), see p. 133. ROUTE LXXVII. TIRANO TO COLICO THEOUGH THE VALTELLINA. Diligence, 43 m., daily, in 9 hrs. Fare, 11.5 c. The Vnltclllna is justly cele- brated for its wines, which are largely consumed in Switzerland under the name of Veltliner. The scenery along the route, though hardly grand, is pleasing and picturesque. Tirano (see p. 143). Soiulrio (17 m.) is the capital of the valley, which here was frequently devastated by floods of water and mud. These floods have been prevented by confining the Mdle.ro to an artificial channel. The ancient Nunnery is now used as a prison. The old castle of the former governors commands a fine view. Looking up Val Ma- leiico we see the lofty snow peaks of the Bernina (13,295 ft.), and the Monte delta Disgrazia (12,075 ft.). From Sondno, long and rather uninteresting stretches of road lead to MORBEGNO (32 m., //-,/, Post fair). The road now runs between the ranges of Monte Spluga on the right, and Monte Legnone on the left, and through the unhealthy marshes of the Adda to olico (43 m.), see p. 50. ROUTE LXXVIII. LAKE MAGGIORE. Railway from Bellinzona (p. ) to Locarno, 14 m., in f hr. ; Fares, 2.30 c., 1.60 c., 1.15 c. Bellinzona to Novaro, E. bank, 67 m., in 4-5 hrs.; Fares, 12 frs. ; 8.45 c. ; 6 frs. Laveno is the station to alight for the steamer crossing to Paltanza, Stresa, Baveno, and the Borromean Islands. Steamers thrice daily between Locarno and Laveno, and seven times daily between Laveno and Arona, stopping at Intra, Pallanza, Stresa, and Baveno. See local time tables. The LagO Maggiore. 37 m. long by about 3 broad, is situated almost entirely in Italy, only 9 miles of the northern shore being in Swiss territory. Its greatest depth is 2600 to 2800 ft. The scenery of the upper portion of the lake is bold and picturesque, the mountains rising precipitously from the water, their lower slopes clad with vineyards, and dotted with villages, churches and villas, almost on every ledge. The finest portion of the lake K 146 Rovtt 78. LAKE MAGG10RE. is around ihe Bay of Baveno, the view from Stresa being one of exquisite beauty. Below the Bay of Baveno the scenery gradually becomes tamer as we approach southwards to the level plains beyond Arona. The net fisheries in the lake, which are the property of the Borromeo family, are very productive. In 1848, Garibaldi and his Volunteers seized the steamers on the lake, and for two months cruised about and harassed the Austrian villages. Locarno (pop. 2600 ; Hotels GRAND HOTEL LOCARNO, fine large hotelwith beautiful grounds, very comfortable. Eng. Ch. Ser. in the Hotel. Hotel CORONA, Hotel Suisse). Locarno, beauti- fully situated at the northern end of the lake amid groves of lemon and orange trees and vine- yards, though in Switzerland, is a typical Italian village. The Government Home in the square is a handsome modern building. In the Church of S. Antonio are some fair pictures. In Jan. 1863 portion of the roof of this church, being overloaded with snow, fell in during service, killing 47 of the worshippers. On a wooded hill 20 min. walk above the town is the pilgrimage church of the MADONNA DEL SASSO, which con- tains a fine "Descent from the Cross" by Cerisi, and other pictures. The church porch commands a lovely view of the lake. Travellers over the St Gothard, to or from Lake Mag- giore, should by all means break their journey at Locarno instead of Bellinzona. Opposite Locarno is Magadino (Hotel Bellevue), ANSCONA, W. , with a ruined castle. Brissago, W. (A Ibergo A ntico), beautifully situated amid groves of oranges, pomegranates, figs, olives, and myrtle. One mile beyond Brissago we leave Swiss waters and touch at Cannobblo (pop. 2600; Hot. Cannobbio, at the landing ; Pens Badia, li m. from the town), one of the oldest villages on the lake. In the church of Delia Pitta is a fine altar piece by Gaudenzio Ferrari of the "Bearing of the Cross, " Liiino. E. (Hotels, Simplon, Posta, Victoria), a railway station, and the point of departure for Lugano. See Route LXXX. In the Piazza Garibaldi is a statue of the General. We now cross to Cannero, W. On the little rocky islands in the lake opposite Cannero are the two curious ruined C'astelli di Cannero, which now belong to the Borromeo family, but which were, in the loth cent, the stronghold of the Mazzardi, five brothers, who were banditti and the terror of the lake. Lavcno, E. (Inns Posta, Moro, Stella), a station on the St Gothard railway. A diligence runs daily to Varese (see p. 152). Laveno is beautifully situated at the base of the Sasso del Torro (5920 ft.) from the summit of which there is a magnificent view of the lake and the Monte Rosa range. Two hours up the moun- tain is the little chapel of S. Caterina in Sasso, where are two large rocks, brought down by a landslip 450 years ago, and which support each other in a curious manner. Ultra, W. (Hotel Infra, Vitello e Leon d'Oro), the ter- minus of the diligence over the Simplon (p. 120). It is a thriving manufacturing town of 5000 in- habitants. Quarter of an hour's walk to the N. of the town is the Villa franzosini, in beautiful gardens. Xow rounding the promontory of S. Remigo, on which is a church built on the site of an ancient Temple of Venus, we reach Pallanza, N. (GRAND HOTEL PALLANZA, large and most ex- Route 78.- LAKE MAGOIORE. 147 cellent hotel, beautifully situated on the lake in pleasant gardens. Moderate prices and most oblig- ing landlord. A delightful winter residence. Eng. Ch. Ser. in the Hotel. HOTEL GAROXI on the hill, fine view. Posta, near the pier). Boats to Isola Madre, 1 boatman 1.50 c. ; 2 boatmen 3 frs. To Isola Bella, 2.50 c. and 4.50 c. To both islands, 3.50 and 6 frs. To Stresa. . 2.50 and 4 frs. To Laveno, 2.50 and 4.50 c. Per hour without boat- men, 1 fr. Pallanza, one of the loveliest spots on the lake, is beautifully situated opposite the Borromean Islands amid luxuri- ant gardens. Having the sun all day, Pallanza is the most delightful winter residence on the lake. It derives its name from being the site of an ancient temple of Pallas. In the wall of the old church of San Stefano is a curious sculptured block of marble, discovered in 1601, and so set that all its faces are seen. It formerly stood alone. On one face is an inscription commemorating the recovery of the Emp. Claudius Caesar from sickness. For diligences to Domo d'Ossola and the Simplon (see p. 120). Opposite Pallanza is l5.-iv.-no (GRAND HOTEL BA- VENO, large and comfortable. BELLEVUE, BEAURIVAQE, both first class ; all these hotels have beautiful gardens. Pension Sitisse). Above the village is the handsome Villa Clara, occupied by Queen Victoria in 1879. Visitors are admitted to the beautiful grounds on presentation of card. A hand- some English church has been built at Baveno. The Borromean Islands. The lake steamers calling at Baveno touch at the Islands. Boat from Baveno, 1 boatman, 2.50 c. ; 2 boatmen, 5 frs. Iola Rclla (HoTET. DAU- PHIN). This island was simply a barren rock without a vestige of vegetation till the year 1671, when one of the Counts Borromeo erected the present large chateau. Ten terraces were cut in the rock and planted with lemons, oranges, oleanders, cypresses, magnolias, palms, and other luxuriant tropical plants. Every handful of earth had to be brought from the mainland. But with all this labour the effect is stiff and strained. The immense and uninteresting chateau is open to visitors after 9 a. m. ; fee to attendant, J-l fr. The Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, is also laid out in terraces covered with the most luxurious vegetation, and being less artificial is more beautiful than its sister island. " Isola Bella is in parts as artificial as a Dutch gardener could desire to see it. Isola Madre, in its beautiful naturalness, is the poet's delight. In the one island trees are planted in lines, and their foliage often carved into strange, fanciful pat- terns. The flower-beds are laid in rectangular or symmetrical parterres : all is correct. In the other, Nature seems to revel at her own sweet will ; and Art, that trains her, hides behind her sister. Both islands are beautiful ; each has its enthusiastic admirers ; but the truer instinct and the finer taste would assuredly turn to Isola Madre as the spot that nearest approaches to perfec- tion." Visitors are admitted to the grounds after 9 a.m. ; fee, 1 fr. On the highest terrace is a ruined Palazza which commands a lovely view of the bay. The pictur- esque little Isola del Pescatori is entirely occupied by a little fish- ing village. Stresa (HOTEL tfES TLES BO- ROMEES. excellent large hotel in beautiful gardens, opposite the Isola Bella. HOTEL MILAN, near 143 Route 79. -THE LAKE OF COMO. the pier. A Ibergo Jteale Bolongaro, Italia). From Stresa we have the most beautiful of alltheriecvs of the Lake, and of the Bay of Baveno. In summer Stresa has also the advantage of being shaded from the sun by the hills behind, making the climate de- lightfully cool and pleasant. Behind the town is the large Jios- minian Monastery, now a school. Facing the lake are the fine villas of the Duchess of Genoa and the Marquis Pallavicino. In the parish church is a fine picture by Morazzone, and a monument to Ant. Rosmini, the founder of the monastery. As we round the point the bank becomes more level, and we catch a glimpse in the distance of Monte Rosa. Belgirate, W. (GRAND HOTEL BELGIRATE), with the handsome villas of the Princess Matilda, and the Fon- tana and Pallavicini families. Aro Jiu. \V., pop. 3000 (HOTEL POSTA, A Ibergo Reale, S. Gottardo, all on the quay), is the terminus of the steamer route. The pier is opposite the railway station. Through trains to Turin, Milan, and Venice. The church of Santa Maria contains a tine altar-piece by Gaudenzio Vinci, representing the Holy Family, and some other smaller pictures round it. About a mile and a half before reaching ^1 rona we see the celebrated COL- OSSAL STATUE (erected in 1697) OF ST CARLO BORROMEO, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan, a native of Arona. It is 66 ft. high, and is placed on a pedestal 40 ft. high. The head, hands, and feet are of bronze, the rest of the figure con- sists of sheets of copper sustained by masonry. The statute is hollow and can be ascended by means of ladders. The head holds three persons. ROUTE LXXIX. THE LAKE OF COMO. Steamboats thrice daily between Coino and Calico in 4 hrs. ; Fares, 4.70 c. 2.60 c.; twice daily, between Lecco and Calico, 3% hrs.; and twice daily between Coma and Lecco, in 3$ hrs. Between Caddenabbia, Bellagio, and Menaggio, frequently. Good restaurants on the steamers. Boats with 1 boatman, first hr., 1.50 c.; each add. hr., 1 fr. ; 2 boatmen, 3 frs. and 2 frs. Bellagio to Cadenabbia and return, 3 frs and 4 frs. : to Menaggio and return, 3 frs. and 4 frs. The boatmen expect a pour-boire. The Lake Of Como is generally considered the most picturesque lake in Northern Italy, and certainly no other lake can vie with the beauty of the gardens and villas on its banks. Its length is 31 m., and its breadth 1 to 3 m. Its greatest depth is 1930 ft. Its scenery more resembles that of a river than of a lake. Throughout its whole extent the banks of the lake are formed ef precipitous mountains from 3000 to 7000 ft. in height : in some places overhanging the water, in others partially covered with wood, and studded with hamlets and beautiful villas surrounded by luxuriant gardens. At Bellagio the lake divides into two arms, the Lake of Como on the W., and the Lake of Lecco to the E. Como (HOTEL VOLTA, best; ITALIA, Albergo di Cajxllo). Travellers wishing to remain all night and leave by the boat in the morning, should go on to Cernobbio (see below), and stay at the fine hotel Villa D'Este. The hotel accommodationat Como is only moderate. Como is a place of considerable Route 1^. THE LAKE OF 149 commercial importance. The Duomo is a handsome building of marble, commenced in 1396, and completed in 1732. The Gothic facade is richly orna- mented with carvings and bas- reliefs. The remainder of the structure externally is in the Renaissance style, except the cupola. The nave and aisles are Italian Gothic, the choir is circxi- lar, and is adorned with Corinth ian pilasters, surmounted by statues between the windows. There are several fine paintings in the cathedral by Luini and Gaudenzio Ferrari. The other public buildings are the Town Hall, the Church of St Abondio, containing the tombs of many of the bishops of Como ; the theatre, a hand- some building ; the Liceo Im- periale e Reale, containing a natural history collection, read- ing-rooms, &c. ; the Palazzo Giovio, containing a library, and an antiquarian collection. From Como a diligence runs twice daily to Varese (p. 152). The view of the lake from Como is confined to a small circular basin surrounded by high hills, but on doubling the low headland of Cernobbio, a very beautiful reach opens up, in which the mountains nse on each side boldly from the water's edge, their slopes covered by plan- tations of olives, vines, and chest- nut trees, and dotted with hand- some villas and luxuriant gardens. Soon after passing the suburb of Vico we reach CeriioltMo (GRAND HOTEL VILLA D'ESTE, magnificent hotel, most comfort- able, and delightully situated on the lake, amid beautiful gardens. Dependance, HOTEL RKINE D'ANGLETERRE. This hotel was formerly the residence of Queen Caroline, the unfortunate wife of George IV. The magnificent reception rooms are handsomely decorated in various antique styles. There are some fine statues and pictures in the hotel). On the east bank, a little be- yond the village of Blevio, is the villa TAGLIONI, with a Swiss cottage, formerly the property of the celebrated danseuse. A little beyond Torno, on the east bank, is the VILLA PLINIANA, at the end of a bay and at the entrance of a narrow gorge. It is a gloomy edifice, now the property of the Princess Belgio- joso. Behind it is the celebrated intermittent fountain described by the younger Pliny. At LAGLTO, on the west bank, is a PYRAMID, built in memory of Professor Joseph Frank, who left money in his will for its erection. On the promontory of Lanedo is the handsome VILLA BAL- BIA> T O, belonging to the Arconti family. Just before reaching Cadenabbia we pass, on the E. bank, the Villa Cnrlotta, be- longing to the Duke of Saxe- Meiningen, and formerly the property of Count Sommariva. The villa and gardens are open to visitors ; fee, 1 fr. In the Marble Saloon are the celebrated reliefs by Thorwaldsen of the Triumph of A lexander, which cost Count Sommariva over 14,000. This room also contains a Cupid and Psyche, and several other statues by Canova. In the Gar- den Saloon is a collection of mo- dern pictures. The GARDENS are most luxuriant and beautiful. Cadeiiabhla (HOTEL BELLE- VUE, opposite the landing, large and comfortable, Eng. Ch. Ser. in the hotel ; HOTEL BRITTANIA, i m. from the landing, first class ; Belle Isfe : ALBERGO BAZZONI, at Tremezzo). A delightful excur- sion from Cadenabbia is to the summit of the Monte Crocione, 5500 ft. , which commands a mag- nificent view of the lake. There 150 Route 7Q.THE LAKE OF COMO. is a mule path to the summit From Cadenabbia we cross to Bcllagio (GRAND HOTEL BELLAGIO, magnificent esta- blishment, very comfortable, and beautifully situated on the lake ; HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGXE, large iine hotel, also on the lake, with dependance, VILLA SERBELLONI, on the hill ; HOTEL GENAZZIM. Second class, Hotel de Florence). Bellagio, situated on the pro- montory dividing the lakes of Como and Lecco, is one of the most beautiful spots on the Ita- lian lakes. Its views extend in every direction, while its open and airy position makes its cli- mate generally cool and delight- ful. Half a mile to the S. is the handsome VILLA MELZI, belong- ing to the present Duke of Melzi. It was built for his grandfather, Count Melzi d'Erile, who was Vice- President of the Italian Republic under Napoleon Buona- parte. Visitors are admitted on Thurs. and Sun. , 1 f r. ; gar- den, 50 c. The villa contains several fine statues by Canova and sculptures by Thorwaldsen. The GARDENS are very beautiful. On the hill above, is the VILLA SERBELLONI, which commands a lovely view of the lake. 1 m. S. of the town is the VILLA GIULIA, belonging to Count Blome, and formerly the pro- perty of the King of the Bel- gians. Its beautiful garden is open to visitors ; fee, 50 c. From Belaggio we cross to Menaggio (HOTEL VICTORIA ; GRAND HOTEL MENAGGIO; Se- cond class, Corona). From Men- aggio a narrow gauge railway runs to Porlezza, on Lake Lu- gano. See Route Vareuna, East Bank (ALBER- GO REALE, Hotel Marcioni), beautifully situated at the en- trance to the romantic Val Esino. A short distance N. of the vil- lage are five remarkable galleries cut put of the solid rock for the passage of the Stelvio road. To the S. (^ m.) is the cascade of the Fuime Latte, or " milk-fall," 1000 ft. in height In spring this fall is very fine, but it almost dries up in summer. Above GETTANA, E. Bank, is the large Hydropathic Est. of Regoledo. BELLANO, E. Bank (Inn Roma), at the entrance to the Val Sas- sino, has large iron works. Be- yond this point the villas become fewer and the shores less inte- resting. At Colico (Hotels Isold Bella, Angela Hisi) is the terminus of the steamer route. For diligence over the Spliigen, see Route LXVI, and to Tirano, see Route Lxxvn. BAY OF LECCO. Steamers from Como to Lecco and Colico to Lecco, see p. 148. The scenery in the Bay of Croce di Malta, Italia), is a busy Lecco, though pretty, cannot vie manufacturing town. The scene of Manzoni's celebrated novel, " I Promessi Sposi," is laid here. in beauty or grandeur with that of the lake of Como. Lecco, Pop. 7500 (HOTEL DUE TOBRI, Route W. LUINO TO LUGANO AND MENAGGIO. 151 EOUTE LXXX. LUINO (LAKE MAGGIORE) TO LUGANO AND MENAGGIO (LAKE OF COMO). Railway from Luino to Ponte Tresa, 6 m., in hr. Steamer from Ponte Tresa to Lugano in 1J hrs., and Porlezza in 2f hrs. Railway from Por- lezza to Menaggio, 8 m., In 20 mln. Luiito (see p. 146). From Luino the rail passes through the fertile valley of the Tresa to Poiitc Tresa, a picturesque village on a bay of the Lake of Lugano, which is here so hemmed in by beautifully wooded hills as to appear like a separate lake. At Ponte Tresa we em- bark on the steamer for Lugano, and passing through the Strait of Lavena, with the precipitous Mtc. Caslano (1170 ft.) on our L, enter the W. arm of the lake. Now steering southwards, having a view to the N.E. of Monte Sal- vatore (p. 74) and the chapel on its summit, we touch at Brusin- I 'LAND AND NORTHERN COUNTIES AND WALES 2 Maps and Plans, Cloth Gilt, 2s. ---- . ___ __ _ I CONTINENTAL SERIES WILLIAM PATERSON, M CLYDE STREET, EDINBURGH- 8 LOVELL'S COURT, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON: AM) ALL HOflKSF.I.LKRS.