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 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 /(a'
 
 RECORD OF THE CITY OF ARMAGH, 
 
 THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, 
 
 BY 
 
 EDWARD ROGERS, 
 
 DEPUTY LIBRARIAN, PUBLIC LIBRARY, ARMAGH. 
 
 ARMAGH : 
 PRINTED AT THE ARMAGH GUARDIAN OFFICE, BY JOHN THOMPSON. 
 
 1861.
 
 DA 
 H 
 
 A 
 
 SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 HIS GRACE THE LORD PRIMATE. 
 
 COPIES. 
 
 Armagh, The Very Rev. the Dean of, 4 
 Armstrong, Meredith, Surgeon, . . 8 
 1 James, Surgeon, 
 
 Mrs., .. ..2 
 
 W. Jones, J.P., D.L.,Glen- 
 
 aule House, Benburb, 
 
 Rev. Wm., Caledon. 
 
 Adams, J. Clarke. 
 
 Allen, George B. 
 
 Babington, Humphrey. 
 
 Barker, William, Solicitor. 
 
 Barnes, William. 
 
 Barre, J. W., Newry. 
 
 Barrett, Jacob, Solicitor. 
 
 Beattie, William. 
 
 Blacker, Stewart, Carrick Blacker, Por- 
 
 tadown. 
 
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 Benson, George, London. 
 Bolton, Captain, R.N., Lisburn. 
 Bottomley, William, Belfast. 
 Boyd, Andrew. 
 Broomfield, Thomas. 
 Buchanan, William, .. ..2 
 
 Burgess, Robert. 
 
 Cashel, The Very Rev. the Dean of, 2 
 Chomley, Rev. J., Loughgall. 
 Close, M. C., M.P., Drumbanagher, 2 
 Cochrane, George. 
 
 George C., Solicitor. 
 
 Robert, .. ..2 
 
 Colvan, The late Dr. John. 
 Convent, The. 
 
 Cooper, John Wilbyo, London. 
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 Crawford, John. 
 
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 Davidson, John, M.R.I.A. 
 
 Benjamin P. 
 
 Disney, Rev. E. 0., Killeshal. 
 Dobbin, Thomas, J.P. 
 John, Meredith Place. 
 
 Oliver, Bank of Ireland, 
 
 Tullamorc. 
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 Eccles, Robert, Ready. 
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 jun., do. 
 
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 Guussen, Rev. E. J., Coalisland. 
 Gordon, Midley. 
 Grant, James, Surgeon Dentist. 
 Greer, Rev. J. R., Kildarton. 
 . Mrs. J. R., Monkstown. 
 Griffin, David. 
 Quillemard, Rev. W. H. 
 Gwynne, Richard. 
 
 Hart, Francis. 
 
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 Hazelton, Robert, Surgeon Dentist. 
 
 Ilcarne, Rev. H. T., Kilmor. 
 
 7151 G5
 
 IV. 
 
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 HeaUy, Jacob. 
 
 Henry, W. Hastings. 
 
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 Hogan, Rev. James, Library, . . 2 
 
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 John R., J.P., Carnagh, Keady. 
 
 Jackson, Richard. 
 
 Johnston, George, Bank of Ireland. 
 
 M. M'Neale. 
 
 1 William. 
 
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 Jones, Re v.James, Chancellor, Kilmore. 
 
 Kaye, Arthur R., Solicitor. 
 Kelly, Miss. 
 
 Kenyon,Hon. Edward, Macefen, White- 
 church, Shropshire, . . 2 
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 Joseph, Ballinahonemore. 
 
 Osborne, jun., Solicitor. 
 
 Kilmister, Mr. 
 
 Knight, Mrs. 
 
 Miss. 
 
 Miss Ripsley, Yorkshire. 
 
 Lee, Mrs. James. 
 
 Leslie, Dr. James. 
 
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 Loudan, James. 
 
 Lynn, Dr. Joseph M. . . . . 2 
 
 Mahood, Dr., Kingston. 
 Mauleverer, Mrs. 
 Millar, George. 
 
 Stearne B., Q.C., Dublin. 
 
 Molyneux, Sir Capel, Bart., Castledillon. 
 Moore, Robert. 
 
 Thomas. 
 
 James H., Solicitor, Dublin. 
 
 Mulgan, Rev. M. M., LL.D., Lisnadill. 
 Morgell, Rev. Cosbie, Knoyle Rectory, 
 
 Hindon, Wilts. 
 Murray, Rev. John W. 
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 M'Cann, Thomas. 
 
 Clean, Rev. William, Tynan. 
 
 -~ Clintock, William, Belfast Bank. 
 
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 Williams, James, Keady. 
 
 Noble, Miss. 
 
 O'Neil, Colonel. 
 
 Orr, Joseph, Loughgall, 
 
 Paton, Rev. James, Kilmore. 
 Patten, Dr. Alexander, Tandragee. 
 Peel, Thomas G. 
 
 Robert. 
 
 Preston, Richard, Kilkenny. 
 
 Rea, Samuel. 
 Reid, Thomas E. 
 Reilly, John. 
 
 Edward, Drummond. 
 
 Reynolds, Mr., Dublin. 
 Rice, George. 
 Riggs, Dr. James L. 
 Robinson, Mrs., Observatory. 
 
 Rev. L., Kilcluney. 
 
 James. 
 
 Roberts, James. 
 
 Rollston, Andrew. 
 
 Rogers, G. F. H., Limerick. 
 
 Rogers, John Pentridge, Melbourne. 
 
 Rombiut, Rev. W. H. . . 2 
 
 Ross, Thomas, Builder. 
 
 Scott, George. 
 
 Andrew, Belfast Bank. 
 
 Shaw, Mrs. M'Kenzie, London, . . 2 
 Shirley, Evelyn P., M.P., Carrickma. 
 
 cross. 
 Simpson, Rev. Samuel, Madden. 
 
 . Wm. A. 
 
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 J. R., Blaokwatertown, . . 2 
 
 Thomas, Savings Bank. 
 
 William. 
 
 Strangways, Rev. J. M. H. 
 
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 William G., Lieut. 60th Rifles. 
 
 Miss. 
 
 James, Organist, Westminster 
 
 Abbey, London. 
 
 Miss, do. 
 
 Verner, Sir W., Bart., M.P., London, 2 
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 Rev. A., North Harden, Chi- 
 
 chester .. ..4 
 
 Rev. T. S. L., Vicar of Walber- 
 
 ton, Sussex, . . . . 2 
 
 COMBS. 
 
 Wade, Rev. Benjamin, Rector. 
 Walker, Mr., Organ Builder, London, 2 
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 White, John D., Cashel. 
 
 Samuel, Bookseller, &c. (Ageat 
 
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 Wilkin, James, Watchmaker. 
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 Wilson, Rev. G. H., Belfast. 
 
 Dr. William Thomas. 
 
 William. 
 
 James. 
 
 Wood, Charles. 
 
 Young, Rev. W. J. M., Coal Island.
 
 INTKODUCTION. 
 
 THE compiler of this treatise has selected from the writings of Camdeu, 
 Bede, O 'Flaherty, Ware, Archdall, Stuart, Reeves, and the Annals of 
 the Four Masters, such information relative to the City of Armagh, as 
 he trusts will prove interesting to the general reader. 
 
 To those who have not access to works of greater pretensions, this 
 brochure may be acceptable, as it contains, in a condensed form, a 
 faithful and impartial description of every thing of importance, tending 
 to throw light upon the past and present History of a City which was 
 once the seat of learning for the British Isles. 
 
 THE PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS were taken and 
 printed expressly for this work, by Mr. ABRAHAM TALBOT, of Armagh, 
 Artist.
 
 RECORD OF THE CITY OE ARMAGH, 
 
 ANCIENT NAMES BY WHICH IT WAS KNOWN. 
 
 INNUMERABLE difficulties attend the elucidation of the ancient topo- 
 graphy of the City of Armagh ; little or no information relative to this 
 subject is to be obtained from foreign, and not much from domestic 
 writers. It is, however, believed to have been early inhabited. 
 MacDermot, in the explanation to his Topographical and Historical 
 Map of Ancient Ireland, states that Ardmacha, or Armagh, was in the 
 earliest ages colonized by the Nemedians, who were Celto- Scythians. 
 The Celts were descended from Gomer, and the Scythians from Magog, 
 two sons of Japhet, son of Noah ; and both these people originally 
 dwelt in the countries near the Euxine and Caspian Seas, on the 
 borders of Europe and Asia. 
 
 Ardmacha, Ardmak, Armachana, or the hill of Macha, now Armagh, 
 was so called either from Macha, Queen of Ireland, who had her resi- 
 dence at Emania A.M. 3,603, or from Macha, wife of Nemedius, who was 
 supposed to have been buried there more than a thousand years before 
 the Christian era. The derivation of the word adopted by tlssher is 
 Ardmach, the high place or field, which is perfectly descriptive of tho 
 ground on which the City stands. O'Donovan, however, states that 
 no Irish scholar ever gave it that interpretation. Ptolemy, the great 
 Egyptian geographer, who lived in the reign of Antoninus Pius, about 
 the year of Christ 120, in writing of ancient Ireland of the first cen- 
 tury, enumerates among its several illustrious cities, REBA and 
 EIGIA, or REGIA, concerning which, great diversity of opinion has 
 existed. In Ptolemy's Index, Reba is thus described, " Citta d'Ibernia 
 ArmacJuma," and to Regia is prefixed, " Arclinath" (Dublin). Ware,
 
 ;J RECORD OF THE 
 
 in his description of the places of Ancient Ireland, mentioned by 
 Ptolemy, says of Regia : " Mercator takes this place to be Limerick, 
 which cannot well be, in regard it is enumerated by Ptolemy among the 
 Mediterranean cities." Camden, from its name and situation, thinks 
 it is some place near Lough Kee. He then defines Eeba to be " Rheba, 
 situated on the river Barrow, in the County Kildare." In the III Vol. 
 of the "Irish Academy Transactions," there is a valuable paper from 
 Mr. Beaufort on this subject, in which he endeavours to explain some 
 difficulties which appear in Ptolemy's geography of this kingdom. 
 Speaking of REGIA, he says : " This city is supposed by Mercator to 
 be Limerick, but by its latitude ami longitude in Ptolemy's tables, it 
 appears to be EAMANIA, or Eamhan, situated near Armagh, and at 
 present called Rath-"N'Eavan, or the Fort of Navan, whose remains 
 consist of a circular entrenchment of considerable extent." This view 
 appears to be the most correct, for Emania, according to the account 
 given by the natives of ancient Ireland of the second century, is the 
 same in geographical position as the Rigid of Ptolemy. In one of the 
 oldest maps of this kingdom* annexed to O'Connor's " Dissertations/' 
 entitled, " A Map of Ireland agreeably to the times of Ptolemy," Rigia 
 is represented as Eamania. This term, Rigia, as applied to Armagh 
 by Gibbon and others, may probably have been given in compliment to 
 the Royal founder, from whom the city is supposed to have derived its 
 name ; thus, Regia civitas or sedes, St. Fiech calls it the " seat of 
 empire." Cambrensis styles Armagh, the " capital of Ireland," Bede 
 calls it " Dearmach," i.e. a field of oaks, where St. Patrick built a very 
 fine city; but he subjoins a romantic circumstance, viz., "that the 
 model of it was drawn for him by the angels." Cluverius, p. 112, 
 calls it the "head of the kingdom," and adds, "after it, Dublin was 
 second;" Jocelyn, who wrote about the year 1182, in the 69th chapter 
 of his life of St. Patrick, speaks of Dublin, in the time of that saint, 
 as a small village pagus exiguus. 
 
 " Near unto the river Kalin is Ardmagh, which (albeit it maketh a 
 poor show) is the Archiepiscopal See and Metropolitan of the whole
 
 Island. Before St. Patrick had built there a fair city, for site, form, 
 quantity, and compass, modelled out by the appointment and direction 
 of angels, this place was called Driumsalwh. The Irish tell much that 
 it received the name of Queen Armacha ; but the better opinions are, 
 that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach, and out of the 
 
 Scottish and Irish language interpreted! it ' the field of oaks ' " (Vita 
 
 Pat. Mar. Scot.) 
 
 The City of Armagh is the principal town in the County of the same 
 name, and the Archiepiscopal See of the Primate of all Ireland. To 
 point out the precise time when Armagh was first built would be a vain 
 attempt, and not reasonably to be expected, especially if it be considered 
 that few cities are laid out all at once. It is situated on the sloping 
 sides of an ascent originally denominated Druimsailech, " the hill of 
 sallows," changed to Ard Sailech, the height of sallows, and then to 
 Ard-Macha, most probably Eamhuin-Macha, the palace of the Kings 
 of Ulster, which stands in its vicinity. These sallows were evidently 
 used in the construction of dwelling-houses for the original settlers. 
 
 SATXT PATRICK. 
 
 The chronology of St. Patrick's history is very uncertain, but the best 
 authorities agree in fixing A.D. 458 as the year in which he founded 
 the Cathedral, the site of which was given by Daire, the chieftain of 
 the district, who resided on the summit of the hill where the Cathedral 
 now stands, and was afterwards known by the name of Rath-Daire. 
 In the year following he held at Armagh his first synod, the canons of 
 which are still in existence. (Wilkiris Con., Vol. I.) 
 
 This Cathedral has been so often battered by invaders and so often 
 repaired by the native Irish in the fashion of the age in which the new 
 alterations took place, that we cannot make any use of it as evidence. 
 It appears from the authority of the Tripartite Life of the founder, to 
 have been an oblong structure 140 feet in length, and divided into 
 nave and choir, according to the custom of the ancient churches. 
 
 The Irish had crypts to their stone churches, with insulated round 
 towers. These crypts were not under, but upper crofts, situated in 
 the roofs between the circular stone ceiling and the stone pediment
 
 V 
 
 4 RECORD OF THE 
 
 ft 
 
 roof, as the churches of Glendaloch and Cashcl. On this account the 
 roofs of the Irish churches were raised remarkably high, which gave 
 them a different appearance from those of the Saxons. The Irish do 
 not appear to have built iu lime and stone prior to the ninth century, 
 from which period stone-roofed churches and round towers became 
 common in this island. The ancient wooden churches and other edi- 
 fices of the Irish, being easily destroyed by fire, were constantly exposed 
 to the depredations of the Danes and other roving plunderers. There 
 were no other means of saving the sacred relics, vestments, &c., of the 
 churches, and the wealth of the inhabitants, than by hiding them in 
 subterraneous caves. The method, therefore, of building churches 
 entirely of stone, with upper crofts, was a great improvement, as it gave 
 a place of security to the goods of the inhabitants as well as to the 
 sacred utensils ; for the churches being entirely of stone, could not be 
 easily burnt ; and the entrances into the upper crofts being only by 
 narrow stairs, or by ladders through stone trap-doors, they could not 
 be plundered without pulling down the building, which in those desul- 
 tory expeditions they had seldom time to effect. This subject has 
 been rendered very interesting by the Irish antiquarian, W. Beauford, 
 in his " Origin of the Ancient Irish Churches." 
 
 In the year 1145, Gelasius built an immense kiln or furnace for 
 making lime to repair the edifices in Armagh a proof that lime had 
 long previously been used in their construction. This kiln appears to 
 hare been quadrangular, and was of the extraordinary dimension of 60 
 feet on every side. The ancient method of using this lime was to re- 
 duce it to a thin or semi-liquid mortar, with a portion of fine sand ; 
 which being thus prepared, was poured into the internal joints of the 
 walls. This process is designated grouting. 
 
 St. Patrick also laid out a large city, beautiful in situation, drew to it 
 inhabitants, and established there schools and seminaries of education. 
 Not long after he resigned the primacy, and it is alleged, spent 
 remainder of his days in retirement and contemplation. He dice 
 17th March, in the l^Oth year of his age, in consequence of whiclT
 
 day lias been observed for his commemoration in Ireland to the present 
 time. He was buried in the Abbey of Saul, a church which he himself 
 had founded at Downpatrick. The year of his death is uncertain, but 
 according to most writers it was A.D. 493./ Cambrensis gives the 
 following in script ionNQn his tomb : / 
 
 " In Dowu^hree Saints one grave do fill, X. 
 Bridget, Patrick, and Columbkill." 
 
 In a description of^the principal towns in Ireland, extracted from 
 Holinshed's Chronicle, we read that " the town of Ardmagh is said to 
 be enemie to rats, and if anie be brought hither, presentlie it dieth, 
 which the inhabitante'impute to the praiers of St. Patrick." 
 
 The credulous Jdcelyn states, that sometime before his death, " St. 
 Patrick gathered together the several tribes of serpents and venomous 
 creatures to a hill in Connaught, and drove them headlong into the 
 Western Ocean, and that from hence hath proceeded that exemption 
 which Ireland enjoys from all poisonous reptiles."' 
 
 'Twas on the top of this big hill 
 
 St. Patrick preached his sermon, 
 That drove the frogs into the bogs, 
 
 And bothered all the vermin. 
 The toads went pop, the frogs went plop, 
 
 Slap-dash into the water, 
 And the snakes committed suicide, 
 
 To save themselves from slaughter. 
 
 In the course of his missionary labours, St. Patrick determined to 
 adopt the most effectual means for transmitting to posterity the doc- 
 trines which he had so sedulously taught. Under this impression he 
 founded at Armagh J^ 
 
 A SCHOOL, 
 
 which in process of time became famous throughout Europe. The 
 foundation of the School of Armagh is to be traced to a very remote 
 period in the judgment of those who are the champions of Irish anti- 
 quity, while this seems to be little more than conjecture in the estima- 
 tion of others ; but of its early existence there can be no question. 
 Like every similar school of learning in Europe, even of more modern 
 
 
 .
 
 6 KKCORD OF THE 
 
 date, it was insignificant in its commencement, but we find, even so 
 late as the end of the 12th century, though many changes had taken 
 place, and a long night of darkness had intervened, that the last 
 of the Irish Kings, an encourager of learning, augmented the income 
 of the Superior of Armagh College, stipulating that this studium gene- 
 rate should be continued to be kept open for all students vho should 
 come to Armagh. 
 
 " The College of Armagh," writes Fitzgerald, vol. 1, p. 155, " ranked 
 for many centuries amongst the most celebrated seminaries in Europe, 
 having at one time 7,000 students within its walls. Roderick O'Con- 
 nor made a grant to its professors. Gildas, a disciple of St. Patrick, 
 and the most ancient of the British historians, is said to have presided 
 over it. The studies pursued in the Irish colleges were, theology, 
 grammar, rhetoric, logic, music, geometry, astronomy and architecture." 
 In the " Popular Encyclopaedia," published at Glasgow, we find that, 
 " in the middle ages Armagh was an extensive and populous city, and 
 celebrated for its learning, having at one time 7,000 students at its 
 college." But in more modern times, or three or four centuries pre- 
 ceding the Reformation, all the Irish colleges had passed into compara- 
 tive insignificance, with the exception of that of Armagh ; the high 
 estimation in which that college was held, was attested by a synod of 
 twenty-six Bishops, which Primate Gelasius convened at Clane (Diocese 
 of Kildare), in 1162, when it was decreed, "that no person, for the 
 time to come, should be admitted as a public reader in Divinity, unless 
 he had been a student fostered or adopted by Armagh." 
 
 Charlemagne of France placed the University of Paris and that of 
 licinum, i.e. Pavia (the two first formed establishments of the kind 
 on the Continent of Europe), under the care of two Irishmen Albin 
 and Clement, as best qualified to preside over such institutions. 
 Aigilbert, the first bishop of the Western Saxons, and afterwards 
 Bishop of Paris, also Alfred King of Northumberland, were educated 
 in Ireland, most probably at Armagh, 
 
 Thus we see that Armagh was a chief seat of literature and religion,
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 7 
 
 ft " blazing star," when most parts of the western world were involved 
 in darkness and superstition. " In the minds of the English it should 
 excite sentiments of gratitude and affection for our country, for it was 
 to this seminary of education that England was in a great degree in- 
 debted for the rudiments of learning which have ultimately exalted her 
 to such a pitch of glory." 
 
 " Our Anglo-Saxons," writes Camden, " went in those times to Ire- 
 land as if to a fair, to purchase knowledge ; and we often find in our 
 authors, that if a person were absent from his own country, it was 
 generally said of him, by way of proverb, that he was sent to Ireland 
 to receive his education. It even appears that our ancestors, the 
 ancient Anglo-Saxons, had learned the use of characters iii Ireland ; 
 and from the Irish, our ancient English ancestors appear to have re- 
 ceived their method of joining letters, and obviously made use of the 
 same characters which the Irish now employ." P. 730. Bede, in his 
 Church History, B. III., C. 27, writes : " There were in Ireland many 
 nobles and gentry from among the English, who in the time of Finanus 
 and Colmanus, who having withdrawn themselves thither, either for 
 the sake of divine study, or to learn more chaste lives : all of them the 
 Scots most freely admitted, and supplied them gratis with daily sus- 
 tenance, with books and masters." Macpherson says : " In the 5th, 
 6th, and 7th centuries, religion flourished in Ireland to such a degree, 
 that it was commonly styled the mother country of saints, and reputed 
 " the kingdom of arts and sciences." In the 8th century 
 
 A CULDEAH MONASTERY 
 
 was erected in Armagh. This establishment is mentioned in the 
 Annals of the Four Masters, and Ulster, A.D. 920, where it is recorded 
 that Godfrey, King of the Danes^nVDublin, plundered Armagh, 
 but spared the church of the Culdees^TUsher asserts that there were 
 Culdees, Cultores Dei, in all the chief churches of Ulster, and that 
 some of them continued at Armagh down to the 17th century. " In 
 our memory," says that eminent scholar, " were priests called Culdeep, 
 who celebrated divine service in the choir ; their president was styled
 
 8 RECORD OF THE 
 
 Prior, and he acted as Precentor ; he had the most honourable seat at 
 table, and every respect was paid him by the body." The appointment 
 of this officer, as we find from Archbishop Swaine's registry, was vested 
 in the whole body or college, and confirmed by the Archbishop of 
 Armagh. 
 
 The Culdees, according to Bede and other authorities, lived by the 
 labour of their own hands ; they were permitted to marry, but not to 
 keep their wives in their own houses. They possessed many things in 
 common, but other matters were divided at their decease, amongst their 
 wives and children. In each Culdee college there were generally twelve 
 brethren, one of whom was the Prior by election. By an inquisition 
 taken in 1542, it appears that there were then within the precincts of 
 the priory one great hall and a messuage built therein, and another great 
 hall and messuage. In 1620 the Priory was forsaken, and the rents 
 were then appropriated in erecting stalls iu the cathedral. 
 
 About this time the city seems to have increased in size and popu- 
 lation, as it contained, besides the cathedral, several other churches and 
 religious establishments. The remains of some of these buildings were 
 visible as late as 1819. 
 
 THE CHUECH OB ABBEY OF SS. PETER AND PAUL. 
 
 The Annals of Ulster and of the Four Masters record the erection of a 
 damhliag, or stone church, called Regies Foil agus Pedair, or the Abbey 
 Church of SS. Paul and Peter at the year 1126 a church, the original 
 erection of which is erroneously ascribed by Ware, Stuart and others, 
 to St. Patrick, and its consecration by the Archbishop Celsus. In 
 modern times the site belongs to a Presbyterian place of worship. 
 Some remains of the arches and walls may be seen in the rear of Mr. 
 J. Davidson's property, and in a yard belonging to Mr. George Robinson, 
 Abbey street. (See A.D. 1557.) The sombre ruins of 
 
 THF FRANCISCAN ABBEY, 
 
 in the Primate's demesne (completed in 1266 by Primate O'Scanlan) 
 even now attract the attention of the antiquary and tourist. The ruins 
 of this ancient building of considerable magnitude, are covered with
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 9 
 
 old ivy, having only the western archway and some fragments of 
 high walls remaining, the solidity of which, together with their pro- 
 tected situation, will preserve them for some time from total decay. 
 In this district the Irish apostle is said to have fixed his residence 
 during the time he was occupied in building the city. The interior of 
 this abbey was used as a burying-place by the inhabitants and neigh- 
 bouring districts, until the time of Primate Robinson. As far as can 
 be ascertained, the last person interred there was " Terence Nugent," of 
 Castledillon, who died in 1741. The cemetery originally lay to the 
 south and east of the Friary, occupying the ground on which the garden 
 now stands ; several skulls and human bones have been exhumed by 
 the labourers. These premises, together with all their tenements and 
 buildings in Armagh, were, in 1620, incorporated with the demesne 
 lands of the See. 
 
 The public road from this cemetery to the city, marked in Rocque's 
 Map as " Abbey- Lane," ran almost in a straight line to Lower Irish- 
 Street, and terminated on the premises held by the survivors of the 
 late Robert Macan. Another road similarly marked ran northwards 
 in a direct line through Mr. Boyd's premises in Dobbin-Street, termi- 
 nating in a narrow street (Prentice's Lane), within 100 feet of Thomas- 
 Street. 
 
 Near this Abbey, on the site of the gardener's house, stood the 
 Marble Polishing Mill of Thomas Ogle. When Primate Robinson 
 came to Armagh he was advised to remove this establishment, and drain 
 "Parkaraore Lake," which was behind the spot he had fixed on 
 to build the palace, lest its exhalations should prove injurious to the 
 air of his demesne. A little way to the west, near the ice house, is the 
 locality known formerly as the ' Gallows-hill." 
 
 THE BISHOP'S COURT. 
 
 In the townland of Mullinure. between the Asylum and Grange Church, 
 is the site of the old Bishop's Court, once the residence of the Primates. 
 Not a trace of the extensive ruins of this establishment now remains, 
 nor have wo any historical evidence of the period of its erection. The
 
 10 RECORD OF THE 
 
 late John Corry, who wrote a valuable article on this subject, states that 
 " it was erected early in the thirteenth century. The quantity of 
 charcoal and ashes found in the building afford a reasonable ground for 
 supposing that it was destroyed by fire } and the latest coins found 
 there being minted about 1371, it may safely be inferred that its des- 
 truction took place not long after that date." About thirty years ago 
 the land on which it stood fell into the hands of Mr. Humphreys, and 
 subsequently was held by the late Mr. H. Magill, both of whom demo- 
 lished every vestige of the building, and used the materials for the 
 repair of roads. A great number of very curious coins, leaden seals, and 
 fibula were found on the premises. The holy water stoup, discovered 
 at the northern department, is in the possession of the widow of the late 
 Henry Magill, but a trowel, together with several pieces of finely sculp- 
 tured white sandstone have fortunately been procured from Mr. James 
 Magill and presented to the Museum of the Armagh Natural History 
 and Philosophical Society. Those who recollect the ruins affirm that 
 it was an oblong building with occasional projections, occupying nearly 
 an acre of ground, and measuring about 230 feet in length, with a 
 court-yard in the interior. At the time specified the outer walls in 
 some places were 15 feet high and 9 feet thick, and the apartments 
 were large and well defined. A fuller description of this interesting 
 spot will be found in the Appendix to Dr. Beeves' " Ancient Churches 
 of Armagh," from the pen of the late John Corry> who is celebrated 
 by that distinguished scholar as the " best antiquary whom Armagh 
 has given birth to." 
 
 THE ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY 
 
 of this city has been faithfully described by the above eminent autho- 
 rity on Irish Antiquities Dr. Reeves, who has had the rare opportunity 
 of consulting the secret papers preserved in the muniment room of the 
 Armagh Record office. The careful study of these manuscripts has 
 enabled that gentleman not only to trace out the sites, but to identify 
 the remains of almost every ecclesiastical building mentioned by our 
 early annalists,
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 11 
 
 44 Out of the ten recorded churches that existed here at the period 
 of the English invasion, two only remain ; while of the rest the very 
 site is in some mere matter of conjecture, and in others with difficulty 
 determined. St. Patricks first Church in Armagh is now represented 
 by the Bank of Ireland. The Provincial Bank comes close on St. 
 Columba. St. Bride's shares its honours with a paddock. St. Peter 
 and St. Paul afford stabling and garden produce to a modern rus in 
 urbe. St. Mary's is lost in a dwelling-house, and the Culdee Society 
 can only be traced by head rent and bones to a region in the city, 
 whence their successors are content to derive income, where in these 
 days of luxury and airy streets they would be very unwilling to make 
 their abode." 
 
 Dr. Beeves then states that in early times Armagh " consisted of 
 two main departments ; the Rath, which was the nucleus, and the 
 Trians or Wards, which were three in number, and formed the outer 
 belt of habitation. * * * The upper enclosure or entrenchment, 
 commencing on the west, observed very much the course of Callan- 
 street the circle being continued across Abbey-street, a little below 
 the Infirmary, and through the gardens round to Market street. The 
 lower enclosure leaves still a trace where it crosses Abbey street at the 
 Wesleyan Chapel. Within the upper ring all the edifices were eccle- 
 siastical. 
 
 '1. There was the Great Stone Church, probably occupying part 
 of the site of the present Cathedral. In 1020 it was burned. In 1 1 25 
 it was re- roofed and covered with shingles by Celsus. It served as the 
 principal church until 1268, when Primate O'Scaunail, he who founded 
 the Franciscan Abbey, commenced the Great Church of Armagh. 
 This building probably required a long period for completion ; but when 
 finished, was enduring, and after repeated conflagrations, changes of 
 masters, and re-edification, here it remains, the pride of the province 
 and the glory of its noble restorer. 
 
 1 2. The Round Tower. Like other ancient churches of this cha- 
 racter, the early Cathedral of Armagh seems to have had no steeple, 
 but nigh at hand, probably about 40 feet from the N. W. angle, stood 
 the Bell-tower. This round tower had a conical cap, as we learn from 
 the Four Masters, who at 1121 state that ' a great wind storm hap- 
 pened in the December of this year which knocked off the cover of the 
 Cloictech.' How long the tower survived the decapitation we know not. 
 
 ' 3. Within the Rath was the Sabhal or Barn which was burnt in 
 the conflagrations of 910 and 1020. Its site cannot be exactly deter- 
 mined, but it probably stood near the extremity of the north transept 
 of the present Cathedral. 
 
 ' 4. The next was ' the Stone Church of the Elections,' which also
 
 12 RECORD OF THE 
 
 suffered in the fires of 916 and 1020. It stood on the south side of 
 the present Cathedral. Rocque marks the spot by a small oblong trace 
 in the angle of the south transept and choir, and styles it ' the Parish 
 Church.' 
 
 ' 5. Forming part of the monastic group was the Library or ' House 
 of Writing.' This was the only building within the Rath which escaped 
 the great fire of 1020. Though the Library escaped, the books were 
 consumed in the houses of the students. Where shall we place this 
 PSEUCHES IATREION? 
 
 ' 6. Within the Rath was also the Abbot's residence, which was fre- 
 quently burnt by lightning. The only guide we have to the site of the 
 Abbot's house is the distribution of the belt of ground which surrounds 
 the Cathedral. The first mention of it is in the Annals of Ulster at 
 822, and in 1116 when it was burned with twenty-three houses. At 
 this time it is probable that the Primate's Armagh residence was trans- 
 ferred to the Bishop's Court at Mullinure. 
 
 ' 7. The kitchen, about 1 7 feet long, was consumed by the fire of 
 915. 
 
 ' 8. Then there was the Prison. 
 
 ' 9. Somewhere near the conventual buildings was a sacred grove 
 or shrubbery. 
 
 ' 10. The Cemetery probably occupied at first the space next the 
 great church on the south. In after time it extended all round. Here 
 it is probable the remains of Brian Boru were deposited in 1014. 
 
 '11. The Culdees' House was originally of considerable extent, for 
 in 1462 the Primate had his Armagh residence in it, as we learn from 
 Prene's Registry. 
 
 ' 12. The Hospice or Fort of Guests. It is doubtful whether this- 
 structure was inside the Rath, as there is no mention of it in the An- 
 iials. In all the conflagrations no mention is made of this spot. 
 
 ' 13. The Rath had an entrance which is mentioned in the Annals 
 at 1121, 1166, outside of which stood a cross. I think we may safely 
 assign the situation of this to the top of Market-street, where is the 
 eastern entrance of the Cathedral premises. In the 1 7th century this 
 Rath or Fort resumed its primitive condition of a fortress. For, in 
 1561, according to the Four Masters, the Lord Deputy Sussex ' pitched 
 his camp of numerous hosts at Armagh, and erected strong Raths and 
 impregnable ramparts around the Great Church of Armagh, in order 
 that he might have warders continually guarding that place.' Happily 
 the crenelated walls are now gone, and in the absence of material de- 
 fence, the Rath derives its present strength from the general consent 
 that it contains the best ordered Church and the most efficient choir 
 in the island ; and that if it be desired to witness the perfection, of
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 13 
 
 Choral Service, within the Eath of Armagh is the building where, par 
 excellence, the wish may be gratified. Then as to the building which 
 Rocque lays down on his Map on the north end of the Wind-mill to the 
 west of the Cathedral, I have not found the slightest vestige of a notice. 
 I must leave the question undetermined. Rocque marks the site of the 
 Church which he calls ' the place where St. Bride's Church stood,' and 
 fixes it 100 feet from the street where the Bank of Ireland now stands. 
 Rocque is right to an extent in calling it St. Bride's Church ; but he 
 is altogether in error when he takes the temple Na Fearta, or Church 
 of Wonders, to be on the Wind-mill Hill.' 
 
 Although the general suppression of religious houses, even considered 
 in a political light only, was of a vast national benefit, yet it must be 
 allowed that at the time they flourished, they were not entirely useless. 
 Monasteries were even the repositories, as well as Seminaries, of learn- 
 ing ; many valuable books and national records, as well as private evi- 
 dences have been preserved in their libraries, the only places wherein 
 they could have been safely lodged in those turbulent times : many of 
 them which had escaped the ravages of the Danes, were destroyed with 
 more than Gothic barbarity at their dissolution. Every Abbey had at 
 least one person whose office it was to instruct youth ; and to the Monks, 
 the Historians of this country are chiefly indebted for the knowledge 
 they possess of former national events. The arts of painting, music, 
 and architecture were also successfully cultivated within their walls. 
 These religious houses were likewise hospitals for the sick and poor, 
 many of both being daily relieved by them : they also afforded lodging 
 and entertainment to travellers at a time when there were no inns. 
 
 EMANIA, AND THE RED BRANCH KNIGHTS. 
 
 " About two miles westwards of the city," writes Dr. Stuart, " near 
 the Callan, at a place called the Navan Hill, stands Emania, and with 
 it is associated the great and glorious achievements of the renowned 
 Red Branch Knights of Ulster. There are accounts given of the great 
 legislative assemblies held there in those early ages, and of magnificent 
 entertainments by the Kings." Colgan states that in his time (1647) 
 " there were extensive remains of Emania. The Irian Kings of the 
 posterity of Ir, ruled over Ulster for a period of nearly seven centuries.
 
 U RECORD OF THE 
 
 viz., from about 350 years A.C. to A.D. 332, and had their chief resi- 
 dence at the palace of E mania. These monarchs established an order 
 of warriors who were highly celebrated, and known by the name of 
 Knights of the Red Branch." 
 
 O'Flaherty (pp. 104, 105), who makes Emania as a canon for ascer- 
 taining the succession of the Monarchs of Ireland, says that Kimbai- 
 thus was the original founder of Emania, and that it was he who first 
 fixed his residence there A.M. 3596. 
 
 . " Kimbaithus primo Maio moderaminis urbem, 
 Regibus Emaniam Condidit Ultonise." 
 
 O'Connor on the same authority (p. 107) writes, that the sumptuous 
 Palace of Emania, surrounded with ditches and ramparts, is one of the 
 chief instances we can produce of architectural magnificence among the 
 ancient Scots. It was built near Ardmacha, and makes a signal era in 
 the history of the nation. The Palace itself was burnt down A.D. 
 332 (O'Connor p. 156), by the grandson of Carbry Lissecar, after it 
 had stood for 684 years ; affording through that long period such ex- 
 amples of splendour, greatness, and economy as do honour not only to 
 the Rudrician (Rex Rudricius, A.M. 3845), but the whole Milesian race. 
 A townland close beside the Navan Hill is still denominated Grieve 
 Row, which was the site of the residence of the Red Branch Knights. 
 ' Around this hill, between the base and the summit, is a fosse and moate 
 or earthen rampart, the whole comprising an area of about twelve acres. 
 There are also to be found some circular mounds or forts ; so that these 
 remains of earth-works of such an extent as to include twelve acres, 
 demonstrate the greatness of the ancient Palace and fortresses of 
 Emania.' Dr. Stuart also states that in an adjoining place called Trea, 
 there is an earthen rampart or mound still traditionally called " the 
 stable of the Kings." 
 
 THE BOOK OF ABMAGH. 
 
 " This manuscript," writes the antiquary Lhuyd, " is beyond all doubt 
 of very great antiquity, whether it may have been written in part by the
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 15 
 
 hand of St. Patrick himself, or whether it be, as appears to me more 
 probable, the work of some later age." 
 
 Mac Dermott, in his Annotations to the Annals of the Four Masters, 
 says, " that the Book of Armagh, a MS. of the 7th century, on vellum, 
 in Irish and Latin, contains a Life of St. Patrick, and his Confession, 
 or a sketch of his life written by himself ; also a Life of St. Martin of 
 Tours ; a copy of the Gospels, and other matters. This book is men- 
 tioned by Dr. Bernard in his Life of St. Malachy, Archbishop of Ar- 
 magh ; it was, as a precious relic, preserved forages in a silver shrine, 
 which was lost ; and in modern times it was contained in a case of 
 leather of elegant workmanship. This remarkable book was kept for 
 many centuries in the family of Mac Moyre, near Armagh, who were 
 specially appointed for its stewardship, but about the year 1680 it was 
 taken to London by Florence Mac Moyre, who being in great poverty 
 sold it for 5 to a Mr. Brownlow." It is now in the Library of Trinity 
 College, Dublin. An account of the Book of Armagh is given by 
 Ware, Ussher, and Dr. O'Connor, and copious extracts from it have 
 been translated and published in that learned work, the " Irish Anti- 
 quarian Researches," by Sir Wm. Betham. 
 
 In the annals of history we read of no other town having suffered 
 such a succession of misfortunes as the city of Armagh. 
 
 In 793 it was totally consumed by fire. 
 
 830 it was in the possession of the Danes and Norwegians. 
 Early in the 9th century the Danes established themselves in various 
 
 parts of Ulster, and in 836, Turgesius at the head of a Danish force, 
 pillaged and burnt the city of Armagh with the Cathedral and other 
 sacred edifices, expelled the Bishop with all the students of the college, 
 and burned every manuscript which the most minute search could 
 discover. On six other occasions was the town laid waste by these 
 same barbarians in the same century, and during the three following 
 centuries Armagh was plundered thirteen times. 
 
 839. Ardmacha, with its oratories and great church was burned 
 by the Danes of Lough Neagh.
 
 16 RECOIID OF THE 
 
 ' During the reigu of Nial Caille, writes Stuart, many battles wer 
 fought between the Irish and the Danes with various success. Nial 
 finding himself sufficiently powerful to invade the territories conquered 
 by the Danes in Ulster, advanced against Armagh, the head quarters 
 of his savage enemies. The Danes, confident of success, met him, and 
 the adverse hosts closed, spear to spear, man to man. The troops of 
 Nial thirsting for vengeance, fought with a desperate valour which 
 made them irresistible. The Danes were completely overthrown, and 
 in the universal rout were slaughtered by the victorious Irish without 
 mercy. Those who survived the battle fled towards the river Callan, 
 probably to gain a temporary refuge in the Navan Fort. The river was 
 swollen from a torrent of rain which had fallen and interrupted the 
 march of the victorious army in their progress to Armagh. 
 
 ' At the foot of Tullamore hill, which the river divides from Umgola, 
 Nial halted his troops. At his command, one. of his warriors endea- 
 voured to pass the ford on horseback, but was instantly hurried from 
 his steed by the impetuosity of the waters. Nial, who with strong 
 emotions, saw him struggling for life, commanded his guards to make 
 every effort for his preservation. In vain was the command obeyed ; 
 terror fixed them to the spot immovable. The magnanimous King 
 dashed forward with a generous resolution to save his friend or perish 
 in the attempt. As he approached the bank of the river, the ground, 
 undermined by the torrent, sank beneath his horse's feet, the monarch 
 was precipitated into the flood, where death at once closed his career 
 of victory and his life. His body was deposited in a grave dug in 
 Tullamore, on the bank of the river where he had so prematurely 
 perished. A simple mound of earth which tradition has from genera- 
 tion to generation denominated ' Nial's Mound," lately marked the 
 spot where the sovereign of Ireland lies in the silence of death.' 
 
 From this circumstance the stream bears the name of the Irish 
 warrior who perished in its waters. 
 
 In 989 the town was plundered the houses, church and steeple 
 burnt, and Armagh at this time became the most melancholy spectacle 
 in the kingdom. 
 
 1004, King Brian Boru with his army remained a whole week 
 in Armagh, and on his departure left a collar of gold weighing 28 
 ounces, as alms, on the great altar of the Church. 
 
 At the battle of Clontarf, which took place on Good Friday, 23rd of 
 April, 1014, this renowned Irish King fell, and by his will gave direc-
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. J7 
 
 tions that his remains shonld be buried at Armagh, the Cathedral of 
 which he had endowed with large donations of gold and cattle. On 
 Easter Saturday, the day after the battle, the body was conveyed in 
 solemn procession to Armagh where it arrived on the fourth day. The 
 body was embalmed with great magnificence, and the remains, after 
 lying in state for twelve successive nights, were then deposited in a 
 stone coffin at the north side of the great altar of the Cathedral. The 
 bodies of his two sous, together with the heads of his nephew, and the 
 Prince of Desies, were buried at the same time in the south side of the 
 Cathedral. 
 
 1020. The Irish ecclesiastical Bell of St. Patrick was plundered from 
 Armagh by a body of marauders from County Down. This Clog-an- 
 uidheachta is at present in the library of Dr. Todd, Trinity College, 
 Dublin. The history of this curious relic, accompanied by four tinted 
 lithographic engravings of the bell and its shrine, was written by Dr. 
 Eeeves, and published by M. Ward, of Belfast, who presented a copy, 
 handsomely bound, to the Public Library, Armagh. 
 
 1074. Armagh was burned with all its churches and bells, both Rath 
 and Triaus (i.e. both enclosure and external buildings, liberties or 
 streets beyond the Rath.) 
 
 At this time Armagh consisted of the Rath and three Trians, the 
 latter term being applied generally in the same way as quarters with us. 
 The Rath comprised the enclosure on the hill crowned by the present 
 Cathedral. Of the other parts the first was called the Trian Mor, or 
 principal part ; the second the Trian Masson or Hassan third ; and 
 the last, the Trian Saxon or English third, from the number of English 
 students resident in it. 
 
 1121. Two streets of the Trian Masain burnt, from the door of the 
 Rath to the cross of Bridget ; and a great storm prevailed, which 
 knocked off the cap of the bell-tower of Armagh. 
 
 1125. We find that Celsus tiled the roof of the Great Duleek or 
 Stone Church which had been in part uncovered for the space of 130 
 years.
 
 18 RECORD OF THE 
 
 1165. Armagh was in part consumed by fire, and in 1167 it was 
 wasted by an immense eonflagration which raged on the one side from 
 the cross of St. Columba in Abbey-street to that of St. Eugene or Owen, 
 and from thence to the cross at Port Rath. The intermediate build- 
 ings and Churches, except that dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, were 
 totally consumed by fire. 
 
 1166. Armagh burned in two streets, from the cross of Columkille 
 to the cross of Bishop Eoghau, and from the cross of Bishop Eoghan, 
 in the second street, to the cross at the door of the Rath, and all the 
 Rath with its temples, except the Abbey hurch of Peter and Paul, 
 and a few of the houses, and a street to the west of the Rath, from the 
 cross of Sechnall to the cross of Brigid. 
 
 1172. A Synod was held at Armagh by Gelasius and the Irish 
 Clergy. The subject of their deliberation was to inquire into the cause 
 of the arrival of so many strangers into their country to invade it, and 
 they concluded that it was their " practice of purchasing Englishmen 
 and making them slaves," subjected them to divine vengeance. 
 
 ] 178. Wm. Fitz-Adhelm, Chief Governor of Ireland, removed a 
 relic from -Armagh called "the Staff of Jesus," and deposited it in 
 Christ's Church, Dublin. This was the Crozier of St. Patrick, which 
 was ornamented with jewels and precious stones, and preserved with 
 all veneration at Armagh. In 1538, the gems and golden ornaments 
 being removed, it was publicly burnt, together with many other relics, 
 in High-street, Dublin, by order of Archbishop Brown. 
 
 ANCIENT CROSSES. 
 
 It appears that there were in the middle of the twelfth century four 
 stone Crosses in Armagh, a fifth was brought by Bishop Prene from 
 Raphoe in 1439, when he was appointed to the Primacy. This is sup- 
 posed to be the Cross which stood in Market-street, and which now lies 
 prostrate in the Cathedral yard. Dr. Reeves rather thinks it was an 
 altar cross. Besides these there were two crosses in the Cathedral 
 burying-ground, one at the north and the other at the south side of the 
 church. A fragment of one of theso crosses, called " St. Patrick's
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 19 
 
 Chair," is buried beneath the spot where it formerly stood near the grand 
 entrance at the west end of the Cathedral. 
 
 These crosses probably were boundaries and limits of certain juris- 
 dictions, but where they stood, writes Dr. Reeves, it is impossible to say. 
 
 1264. Primate O'Scaunail introduced the Friars Minor into Armagh 
 and built for them a Church (in the Primate's demesne), around which, 
 some time after, he caused a deep and broad trench to be sunk. 
 
 1268. The Great Church of Armagh was commenced by Primate 
 O'Scannail. Ware says that "he repaired and much beautified tho Cathe- 
 dral of St. Patrick at Armagh." According to this the Great Church or 
 TempallMor,ist\ies&me&sthQ Duleek, mentioned 1125, which with the 
 other churches at Armagh was destroyed in 11 89, and had perhaps conti- 
 nued in a ruinous state until Primate O'Scannail set about re-building it. 
 
 1347. The celebrated Fitz-Ralph, commonly called Armachanus, 
 became Primate of Armagh. Besides being the author of many learned 
 works, he wrote the " Defensorium curatorum contra eos qui privi- 
 legiatos sedicunt," the oldest if not the most valuable book in the 
 Armagh Library. It was printed at Paris, 26th Oct., 1461. 
 
 1465. To assimilate the customs, dress and manners of the English 
 and Irish people, Parliament enacted that every Irishman should be 
 dressed after the manner of the English, and should shave their beard 
 above the mouth and take an English name, derived either from an art 
 or science, trade or colour. Hence have we Smiths, Taylors, Carpen 
 ters, Butlers, Cooks, White, Black, Green, Scarlet, Grey, Brown, 
 Field, Street, Lane, Wall, Stone, <fec., &c. 
 
 1480. Octavian de Palatio, a Florentine, was made Archbishop of 
 Armagh, and seeing there the barbarous manners of the common people, 
 their diet and nakedness, he is said to have exclaimed 
 
 Armagh is notorious 
 
 For being vainglorious. 
 The men void of manners ; their spouses 
 
 Co naked : they eat 
 
 Raw flesh for their meat, 
 And poverty dwells in their houses.
 
 20 BE CORD OF THE 
 
 Moryson, part iii., p. 164, after quoting these vulgar lines, proceeds 
 to write of Armagh, and gives a general description of the Irish cus- 
 toms in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, from which the following is an 
 extract : 
 
 " These wild Irish never set any candles upon tables since indeed 
 they have none, but set their meate upon a bundle of grasse, and use 
 the same grasse for napkins to wipe their hands. To give light to the 
 house they place a great caudle, made of reedes and butter, upon the 
 floore. And in like sort the chiefe men in their houses make fiers in 
 the middest of the roomes, the smoake whereof goeth out at a hole in 
 the top thereof. They sleep under the canopy of heaven or in a poore 
 house of clay, or in a cabin made of the boughes of trees and covered 
 with turffe, for such are the dwellings of the very Lords among them. 
 And in such places they make a fier in the middest of the roome, 
 and round about it they sleep upon the ground without straw or other 
 thing under them, lying all in a circle about the fier, with their feete 
 towards it. And their bodies being naked, they cover their heads and 
 shoulders with their mantells, which they first make very wet, steeping 
 them in water of purpose, for they finde that when their bodies have 
 once warmed the wet mantells, the smoke of them keeps their bodies 
 in temperate heate all the night following." 
 
 Strabo, who wrote his Geography about A.D. 19, speaks thus of the 
 manners of the Irish at that early period : 
 
 " I have nothing certain to say about Ireland, unless that the inha- 
 bitants are ruder that those of Britain ; they feed on human flesh and 
 devour very much food, and think it right to eat the bodies of their 
 dead parents," et pejora dicit. 
 
 In 1557 an Inquisition was held at Armagh, whereby we find that 
 James 'Donnelly, the last Prior, surrendered the Abbey, being then 
 in possession of the site thereof ; at which time there was a large 
 church, some stone chambers, a dormitory with cellars beneath it, an 
 hall, a stone house, a great court, a cemetry, garden and orchard. This 
 Abbey and all the possessions thereunto belonging were granted in 
 1 612 to Sir Toby Caulfeild at the rent of 6 Irish per annum. 
 
 THE CONDITION OF ARMAGH IN 1666 
 
 is thus described by Camden : "In our memory the Church and City 
 of Armagh were so foully defaced by the rebel Shane O'Neal that they
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 21 
 
 lost all their ancient beauty and glory, and nothing remaineth at this 
 time but a few small wattled cottages." 
 
 1614. The Cathedral which had been destroyed by Shane O'Neal 
 was restored by Primate Hampton ; the walls with their windows re- 
 constructed, the aisles re-roofed and the steeple rebuilt. He also re- 
 cast the great bell and repaired the old Episcopal House, to which he 
 added sundry new buildings. In 1689, King James II., on his way 
 to Charlemont, stayed some days at Armagh, and resided in a house 
 (an inn) in Abbey-street, lately occupied by a blacksmith named Magill ; 
 and in the year following, 1690, Duke Schomberg took possession of 
 Armagh and occupied the same quarters. In 1792 we find that the 
 place was almost in ruins. Part of the materials were nsed in build- 
 ing a Presbyterian Church, erected on the site of the old Abbey, from 
 which the street derives its name. Since then the grounds contiguous 
 were known as the " Gravel Walks," where John Wesley was won't to 
 preach. The premises were subsequently tenanted by Kichardson, 
 Magill, and Dobbin. On this interesting site now stands the " Protes- 
 tant Hall and Reading Room." 
 
 25th January, 1690. Story in his History of the Wars of Ireland, 
 p. 12, writes : " Stores of bread, cheese, shoes and other necessarirs 
 were appointed at several places, especially at Armagh, the metropolis 
 of the whole island." 
 
 Tradition has it that the line of march used by King James and Duke 
 Schomberg on their way to Charlemont was over a bridle road or " desert 
 lane" running between the Fever Hospital and the Blind Asylum. 
 
 1721. Primate Lindsey presented to the Vicars Choral a second 
 organ for divine service, and a peal of six fine-toned bells for the 
 Cathedral. On the day of their arrival it is said that an execution took 
 place on Gallows-hill. The appointed hour arrived, and the crowd was 
 in eager expectation for the appearance of the unfortunate victim, when 
 intelligence came that the bells were on the Dublin road within a short 
 distance of the city. In a moment the vast multitude dispersed, 
 leaving the sheriff, posse comitatus and finisher of the law alone to dis-
 
 22 RECORD OF THE 
 
 charge their painful duty. The horses were unyoked from the waggons 
 and Primate Lindscy's merry bells were towed in triumph to their final 
 resting place. 
 
 1726. Primate Boulter built four houses on Vicars'-hill for the re- 
 ception of clergymen's widows, from a fund which by his will he appro- 
 priated to that purpose. These he endowed with J650 per annum. 
 This locality was originally denominated "Pound Hill," from an en- 
 closure which stood at the south-west corner leading to Kalin-street. 
 
 On 29th September, 1759, the Sovereign of the City, accompanied 
 by several of the Burgesses, formally opened two new streets which 
 they denominated Thomas-street and Ogle-street, which has proved of 
 more essential service to the city than any other improvement which 
 had been effected in the 18th century. 
 
 These streets were so called from the first and second name of 
 " Thomas Ogle," who was Sovereign of the City in 1751. Notwith- 
 standing this formal inauguration, Rocque's Map of 1760, as well as 
 Livingstone's Survey of the City in 1767, ignore the existence of Ogle- 
 street, and both assign the same name to the two distinct streets. Dr. 
 Reeves in the Map which accompanies his " Ancient Churches of 
 Armagh," has unhappily fallen into the same error. 
 
 To the munificence of nearly all the Archbishops, Armagh owes 
 much, but her great benefactor and restorer was Richard Robinson who 
 succeeded to the Primacy in 1765. Immediately after his promotion 
 he repaired the Cathedral, and presented to the Vicars Choral a fine- 
 toned organ incased in black oak exquisitely carved, bearing the arms 
 of the donor. The houses in Armagh about this time, with very few 
 ceptions, were cottages covered with straw. The citizens were obliged 
 to go to the neighbouring village of Richhill to purchase groceries and 
 decent clothing, and it is said that letters were transmitted through 
 that village for the people of Armagh. 
 
 Nineteen years before Primate Robinson's arrival, the city of 
 Armagh is thus described in Salmon's Gazetteer, " once a considerable 
 city, now reduced to a small village."
 
 CITY OF AKMAGH. 23 
 
 THE PALACE. 
 
 Tis difficult to discover by whom the original " Episcopal House" at 
 Armagh was built. When Christopher Hampton succeeded to the 
 Primacy in 1613, he built a handsome Palace at Drogheda, which was 
 then the principal residence of the Archbishops of this Diocese. He 
 also repaired an " old Episcopal House" at Armagh. This edifice was 
 in such wretched order when Primate Robinson came to the See, that the 
 premises were given up in the first instance to Mr. Macan, and sub- 
 sequently divided into separate houses (now occupied by Messrs. Eiggs 
 and Hazelton). His grace having determined to build a Palace, resided 
 for some time at Richhill, and in 1770, in the demesne lands, he erected 
 a splendid mansion measuring 90 feet by 60. His first intention was 
 to have built it on Tullyard hill, but Dr. Averell, proprietor of the soil, 
 would not transfer his title to the lands, and thus the Primate was 
 obliged to change his original design. 
 
 Some of the apartments are adorned with valuable paintings, which 
 were bequeathed by the founder to his successor viz., Charles I., King 
 William and Queen Mary, Queen Ann, Prince George of Denmark, 
 King George I., George II., Frederic Prince of Wales, George III., 
 Queen Charlotte, the Elector of Hanover, the Princess Sophia, Electress 
 and Duchess Dowager of Hanover, the Duke of Zell, together with 
 several of the Primates, fifteen in number, reaching down to the time 
 of Archbishop Stuart from that of Henry Usher who was raised to the 
 Primacy in the year 1595, towards the latter end of the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth. These complete the series of Protestant Archbishops of 
 Armagh during that period. 
 
 On his accession to the Primacy in 1822, the present Primate ex- 
 pended an immense sum in building office houses and adding another 
 story to the Palace, which gives it a noble and graceful appearance. In 
 the year 1781 Primate Robinson built a beautiful Domestic Chapel 
 near the west end of the Palace. The front has a handsome portico 
 of the Ionic order, and the whole edifice is in the most chaste and 
 classic style of architecture.
 
 24 RECORD OF THE 
 
 THE LIBRARY. 
 
 founded by Primate Robinson, is situated in Abbey-st. near the Cathedral. 
 It was completed in 1 771, and bears the inscription PSEUCHES IATREION 
 (Medicine-shop of the Soul) over the entrance at the east end. 
 
 Some authors refer the origin of Libraries to the Hebrews, who set 
 the example to other nations. Osmanduas, King of Egypt, is said to 
 have had a library built in his palace with the foregoing inscription. 
 The Alexandrian Library, built A.C. 260 by Ptolemy Philadelphus, 
 containing 700,000 volumes, all in rolls, also had the same motto. 
 
 In -1847 the Governors expended upwards of 3,000 in enlarging the 
 Armagh Library, and its present appearance differs materially from 
 that which is given in a medal, struck by order of the founder to com- 
 memorate its erection. The building contains a suite of elegant and 
 commodious apartments for the use of the Librarian and his family. 
 The public room which contains the books now measures 67 feet in 
 length, 25 feet broad, and 20 in height. There are about 12,000 vols., 
 and the number is constantly increasing under the guardianship of the 
 present " Board." In the Divinity department the collection is ex- 
 ceedingly rare and valuable. There are also many select works on 
 Classics, Science, and History. In the " Poet's corner" too, may be 
 seen the 4th or last of the folio editions of Shakespiere, published in 1685. 
 The second edition of Dr. Johnston's Dictionary, 2 vols. folio, 1755. 
 In this book the curious may indulge for some time by reading 
 the extraordinary definitions given to "grubb street," "network," "oats," 
 " oysters," "pension," &c. The hours of attendance at the Library are 
 from 12 till 3 every day in the week except Wednesdays and Fridays, 
 when it is open from 1 till 3 ; during which time the public are admitted 
 " free as air'* to every privilege which the institution affords. Rev. 
 JAMES HOOAK, Librarian. EDWARD ROGERS, Deputy. 
 
 About the year 1772 the Churches of Lisnadill and Grange were 
 built by Primate Robinson on lofty hills commanding beautiful views 
 of the country, city and Cathedral, thus reminding us of the song of 
 the Psalmist, " Her foundations are upon the holy hills."
 
 CITY OP ARMAGH. 25 
 
 THE ROYAL SCHOOL. 
 
 In 1773 Primate Robiuson laid out the fouudatiou of this building, 
 which cost upwards of 5,000, of which 3,000 were advanced by 
 Primate Robinson, and the remainder by the celebrated Dr. Greuber, 
 who was Head Master of the School, which then stood in Abbey- 
 street, near the spot where Rocque in his Map has placed St. Columba's 
 Monastery. The school was originally endowed in 1626, from which 
 time we have in succession the following list of Masters : John Lydiat, 
 John Starkey, Isaac Colyer, Thomas Wadman, 1684 ; Joseph Crump, 
 1690; R.Martin, 1TOO; C. Carthy, 1740; Arthur Greuber, 1754; 
 Thomas Carpeudale, G. Miller, and W. H. GuiJlemard, the present 
 Master. The school-room is 65 feet by 20, and the dining-room and 
 dormitories are well ventilated and spacious. A few years since the 
 present Primate advanced the sum of 3,000 for internal arrangements 
 which were considered absolutely necessary, the greater part of which 
 still remains unpaid. 
 
 THE METROPOLITAN REGISTRY OFFICE, 
 
 situated on Vicars'-hill, is a fire-proof building erected by Primate 
 Robinson about the year 1776. Besides being the repository of the 
 titles of the clergy and numerous other important and interesting docu- 
 ments belonging to the Church, there is a muniment-room containing 
 books and manuscripts, which, by Primate Robinson's will, cannot be 
 submitted to public inspection. These were a short time since care- 
 fully arranged and lettered by Dr. Reeves, and a minute index made 
 out for the inspection of those who are permitted to make extracts. 
 Of this department the Librarian holds the key, under the control of 
 the Lord Primate. J. G. W. BRIDGES and G. SCOTT, Esqrs., Joint 
 Registrars. R. RIDDALL, Esq., Deputy Registrar. Mr. G. D 
 HUGHES, Clerk. 
 
 The business of the COURT OF PROBATE is also transacted in this 
 Office, with the sanction of his Grace, until a proper house and offices 
 be erected by Government, (the site for which has been selected near 
 .the Court-house), for the accommodation of the Registrar and his assis-
 
 20 RECORD OF THE 
 
 tauts. ROBERT RIDDALL, Esq., District Registrar. Mr. G. D. HUGHES, 
 Clerk. 
 
 THE OBSEKVATORY. 
 
 The last public buildiug erected by Primate Robinson was the Obser- 
 vatory in 1793. It is beautifully situated on a hill in the immediate 
 vicinity of Armagh, about 100 feet above the general level of the dis- 
 trict. The Observatory hill was formerly called Knockbuy, i.e. the 
 yellow hill, on account of the profusion of butter-cups with which it is 
 covered in spring. To commemorate the erection of this edifice a medal 
 was struck, having on one side the head of the Primate inscribed, 
 " Richard Robinson, Baron Rokeby, Lord Primate of all Ireland," and 
 on the reverse, the south front of the Observatory, with the appropriate 
 motto, " The Heavens declare the glory of God, MDCCLXXXIX." 
 Strangers and visitors are admitted at seasonable hours through the 
 courtesy of the Astronomer and his assistants. Several works on the 
 science of Astronomy have been written by Dr. Robinson, the last of 
 which is entitled " Places of 5,345 stars, observed from 1828 to 1854 
 at the Armagh Observatory." This book is inscribed to the Lord 
 Primate, and published in 1859 at the expense of Government, on the 
 recommendation of the Royal Society. In the introduction to the work, 
 Doctor Robinson states that at the time of Primate Robinson's death, 
 " no work of any real value to astronomy could be done for the want 
 of proper instruments ; and the two immediate successors took no in- 
 terest in science. It remained for the present Archbishop of Armagh, 
 Lord John George Beresford, to remedy this defect by his gift of a 
 transit instrument, a mural circle and a reflector of 15 inches aperture, 
 equatorially mounted. The endowment of the Observatory is not 
 sufficient to defray the expense of publishing the observations ; but I 
 was enabled by the liberality of the Primate to print those for 1828, 
 1829, and 1830, which were distributed among the Astronomers and 
 Observatories of Europe." Rev. T. R. ROBINSON, D.D., Astronomer. 
 REAL M'N. EDMONDSON, Esq., Rev. W. H. ROMBAUT, Assistants,
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 27 
 
 THE DEANERY. 
 
 North-east of the Observatory and in its immediate neighbourhood, 
 stands the Deanery House and grounds, a charming spot, chiefly re- 
 markable for having been the residence of the learned and celebrated 
 Dr. H. Hamilton. The present occupier is the Very Eev. B. DISNEY, 
 Dean of Armagh. 
 
 COUNTY INFIBMARY. 
 
 This handsome edifice, which is situated to the north-west of the 
 Cathedral, was completed in 1774. Besides the Resident Physician, 
 there is an Apothecary attached to the institution, a Matron, Cook, 
 Nurse-tender, and a Porter, who acts as gardener. The late Rev. Dr. 
 Lill, supposing that the waters of Lough Neagh were efficacious in the 
 treatment of scrofulous diseases, determined to found on its banks an 
 asylum for persons so afflicted. The bequest however was found to be 
 inadequate for the purpose. Under these circumstances the case was 
 submitted to the judgment of the Lord Chancellor, who empowered the 
 trustees to attach the " charity" to the Armagh Infirmary, and a large 
 wing was built at the north end of the house called "Lill's Ward," 
 where patients receive every attention and medical aid which human 
 skill and science can afford, under the management of the Resident 
 Physician, A. ROBINSON, Esq., M.B. JAMES ARMSTRONG, Esq., Apo- 
 thecary. Mrs. CRAUFORD, Matron. 
 
 THE FEVER HOSPITAL, 
 
 established in 1 827, is supported by his Grace the Lord Primate. This 
 hospital is chiefly intended for the accommodation of tradesmen, ser- 
 vants and their families. Patients are admitted by ticket signed by 
 the Medical Officer and one of the Governors, from any part of the 
 city and its vicinity. Number of beds, 30, but containing accommoda- 
 tion for 40 patients. Physician, JAMES LESLIE, Esq. M.D. 
 
 THE DISPENSARY, 
 
 situated in Scotch street, consists of three Electoral Divisions or Dia- 
 tricts viz., Armagh, Ballyards, and Ballymartrim, comprising 74 
 townlauds and the Corporation or City of Armagh. This institution is
 
 28 RECORD OF THE 
 
 now under the authority of the Poor Law Guardians and a committee 
 of management. Two Vaccination Stations are held in the country dis- 
 tricts. There is also a maternity department connected with the insti- 
 tution, and above 80 of the poor classes avail themselves of this privilege^ 
 during the year. The Dispensary Committee are the Sanitary Board 
 for the District, and exercise authority under the " Nuisances Removal 
 and Diseases Prevention Acts." The average number of Patients wha 
 receive relief annually amount to 20,000, of this number about 800 are 
 attended at their own houses. Physician and Surgeon, J. LESLIE, 
 Esq., M.D. 
 
 THS ARMAGH DISTRICT LUNATIC ASYLUM, 
 
 opened in the year 1825, was the first institution of the kind built in- 
 Ireland. Originally intended to accommodate 104 patients, it is now 
 capable of receiving 144. The Counties of Armagh, Monaghan, Cavan,- 
 and Fermanagh were formerly comprised in this District, containing a 
 population of 793,336. Fermanagh is now detached and conjoined to 1 
 the institution in Tyrone. There were SA. OR. 23p. of laud purchased 
 for the Asylum grounds which cost Sl 3s. lid. per acre, in addition 
 to which 5 acres are rented. The building cost 18,094 4s. 8d, 
 From July, 1825, to September, 1860, 1,347 males and 1,061 females 
 were admitted. It may be interesting to know that four male patients, 
 two of which were admitted in 1828, one in 1830, and one in 1831 ; 
 four females, two of which were admitted in 1825, and two in 1828 
 still live to participate in the comforts and blessings afforded by the in- 
 stitution. Mr. JACKSON was appointed Manager in 1825, which situa- 
 tion he honourably filled till February, 1859, and on his resignation 
 Dr. M'KINSTRY was appointed Resident Physician and Manager. His 
 Grace the Lord Primate always took a great interest in the Asylum, and 
 has evinced at all times a great anxiety for the comfort and welfare of 
 the patients. THOMAS CUMING, Esq., M.D., Visiting Physician. Mrs-, 
 SMYTH, Matron. 
 
 MAC AN 'S ASYLUM FOP. THE BLIND. 
 
 In the year 1848 a sum of 1 1,180 3s. LOd. Government 3 per cent.
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 29 
 
 Stock, under the will of the late Jacob Macan, Esq., was available for 
 the purpose of building and endowing an Asylum for the Blind of every 
 denomination. Much difficulty having arisen respecting a site, appli- 
 cation was made to his Grace the Lord Primate for the Fever Hospital 
 and grounds belonging thereto. His Grace accepted the proposal, and 
 after the necessary alterations were made in the building, the Institu- 
 tion was opened for the reception of inmates on 1st April, 1854. The 
 making of mats and baskets is taught and practised at the Asylum, 
 and the inmates have made considerable proficiency. Mr. T. SMITH, 
 Secretary. Miss M. WILKTN, Matron. 
 
 THE MARKET HOtSB 
 
 was erected by Primate Stewart at an expense of 8,000. It is built 
 with cut limestone, and situated eastward of the Cathedral, at the foot 
 of Market street. The following inscription on the front describes the 
 date and object of the building : " GULIELMUS ARCHIEP. 
 ARMAGH. UTILITATI CIVIUM DEDIT. MDCCCXI." The 
 old Market-house was planned by Primate Boulter, but he did not live 
 to see it perfected. His executors, however, carried out his intentions, 
 and expended about 850 on the building. 
 
 THE GAOL 
 
 stands on the south side of the public walks at the foot of Barrack- 
 Btreet. It was built in 1780, since which time several alterations and 
 enlargements have been effected. Under the present arrangement 
 nothing can exceed the kindness and attention of the Governor to those 
 who have the misfortune to be placed under him. 
 
 THE OLD BRIDEWELL 
 
 or House of Correction, mentioned in Rocque's map, stood at the foot 
 of Scotch-street, on the site of which the late John Summerville built 
 a house, now occupied by John Kearney. It was a building of no great 
 pretensions, being one story high, slated, and under the charge of a 
 well-known city official, Jemmy Simpson. 
 
 THE MILITARY BARRACKS, 
 
 situated on an eminence to the east of the city, were built in 1 773, In
 
 30 RECORD OF THE 
 
 1 7 3C Primate Boulter leased to Government a portion of the " Commons" 
 for the purpose of building a Barracks, the remains of which were oa 
 the ground when Primate Robinson came to Armagh in 1765. 
 
 In 1814 anew row of houses was erected on Barrack-hill, and an entire 
 new street in the district of Na Fearta was opened, commencing near 
 the foot of Scotch street, and at its termination approximates the ppint 
 in which Thomas-street and Ogle-street meet. 
 
 PUBLIC TONTINE ASSEMBLY EOOM. 
 
 By Deed of assignment from the original subscribers and proprietors to 
 trustees, bearing date 6th September, 1823, it appears that about the 
 year 1790, the propriety of having a Public Assembly and Ball Room 
 suggested itself to the nobility and gentry of this city and its vicinity. 
 For this object the sum of 1,120 was subscribed, and a proper site 
 chosen fr its erection. A lease of the premises was granted by Thomas 
 Whaley, of Dublin, who held under the Archbishop of Armagh, to Rev. 
 H. Hamilton, Dean of Armagh, Rev. R. Allott, D.D., John Burgess, 
 Thomas Macan, Thomas Taylor, and John Macan, at the yearly rent 
 of 5 13s. 9d. After some time the building appears to have fallen 
 into a state of dilapidation, and at a general meeting of the subscribers 
 and proprietors held in 1821, it was arranged that the said subscribers 
 should assign their interests in the establishment for the accommoda- 
 tion of the public of Armagh to the following trustees : A. I. Kelly, 
 Sovereign of Armagh ; R. R. Lodge, Leonard Dobbin, sen., William 
 M 'Williams, H. L. Prentice, and John Waugh. 
 
 In 1828 the Trustees expended 500 in putting up a new staircase, 
 and in other necessary improvements. 
 
 About the year 1841, the Armagh Musical Society held their con- 
 certs in the Tontine, but the Concert Room was found to be so small 
 and inadequate for the purpose, that the project of having a proper 
 Music Hall built was seriously entertained. His Grace the Lord 
 Primate, however, with the idea of improving the old building and 
 making it suitable for general purposes, proposed to renew the Lease 
 \\ithout the renewal fines, on condition that the necessary improve-
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 31 
 
 merits would be duly executed. The Toll Committee at once accepted 
 the kind offer of his Grace, and expended at that time 700. 
 
 Within the last twenty years, about 1 ,000 were laid out on this 
 building by the Toll Committee. 
 
 There is also a Supper-room and a convenient suite of apartments, 
 in one of which is a Public News Room, which is well supported by a 
 large nnmberof the respectable inhabitants. 
 
 The imposing appearance of the establishment, and the satisfactory 
 manner in which everything is conducted, reflects great credid on the 
 present trustees H. L. Prentice, Rev. James Jones, Wm. Paton, 
 Wm. Barker, Thos. A. Prentice, and J. G. Winder. 
 
 THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE 
 
 was erected in 1809, and lies to the north-west of the Mall. Being built 
 on the old method, it was found to be very inconvenient. Frequent com- 
 plaints having been made, Mr. Davison, County Surveyor, submitted 
 to the Grand Jury a plan for the alteration and improvement of tho 
 house, which was approved of, and a presentment for 2,500 was passed 
 at Summer Assizes, 1860, to carry out the proposed plan; and the 
 work was commenced in July, 1860. The following are the contemplated 
 alterations : A rear wing on the east side for the public offices, com- 
 mittee rooms, crown witnesses, police, &c. The fittings in the present 
 courts are to be all pulled down, and the barristers' pews placed 
 in front of the dock so as to face the Judge ; accommodation is pro- 
 vided for the juries in waiting, and the public, who are to enter a gallery 
 by a separate entrance from the outside without passing through tho 
 hall ; cells under the court for the prisoners, a room for the Grand 
 Jury witnesses, a room for the attorneys, and considerable sanatory 
 improvements. Both courts are to be lighted at night by sunburners. 
 Mr. THOMAS Ross, Contractor and Builder. 
 
 THE OLD SESSION" HOUSE 
 
 was immediately over the Gaol, which consisted of a dismal suite of 
 subterraneous apartments at the foot of Market-street. The building 
 lias been subdivided into four houses, at present in the occupation of
 
 83 RECORD OF THE 
 
 Messrs. Vint, Simpson, Bryson, and Burns. The entrance to the 
 Session House was by a flight of steps, on the top of which was placed 
 the " Pillory." Down the passage leading to Mr. Vint's hall door may 
 be seen the serrated eve-course, over the windows of the old Grand 
 Jury Room. 
 
 Respecting the origin of this establishment, it can be traced from a 
 clause inserted in a Privy Signet for vesting lauds in the Primate 
 by James I., bearing date 1st August, 1619, as follows : " Excepting 
 and reserving unto us, our heirs and successors, out of the Vicars 
 Choral and Choristers lands of the Cathedral of Armagh, which the 
 said Archbishop shall think most convenient for our service a por- 
 tion of ground 80 feet in length by 40 in breadth for a Session 
 House and Gaol in said town of Armagh." Primate Hampton chose 
 Market-street for the site of this building, for we have an account of 
 its existence there in 1704, when it was nearly destroyedby fire. The 
 rents arising from these tenements are now appropriated to the sup- 
 port of the Mall Male and Female Schools. 
 
 At the beginning of the 18th Century, behind the Session House 
 and Gaol, at the foot of Market-street, there was a small lake, called 
 " Lake Lappan" which contained, it is said many eels. In the rear 
 of the ground on which Ogle-street has been built, there was a tract 
 of marshy ground and a small lake. The Barrack street commons 
 also contained various stagnant pools which emitted unwholesome va- 
 pours. 
 
 THE NATUBAL HISTOBY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY 
 
 was established in 1839, and has during the last ten years especially 
 been making most satisfactory progress. In the year 1856 the Earl 
 of Charlemont presented to the Society the building then known as the 
 Charlemont Place National School- house, which has since, through the 
 liberality of his Grace the Lord Primate and that of the nobility and 
 gentry of the neighbourhood as well as the inhabitants of the city, 
 been considerably improved. Within the Society's house are a reading- 
 room, library, lecture and committee rooms, curator's residence and a
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 33 
 
 museum, which when duly arranged will be worthy of the tourist's visit. 
 The institution is most creditable to the city, and is well deserving of 
 the liberal support of a generous public. The reading-room is open 
 from 12 till 2 o'clock daily, and from 7 till 10 in the evening. Presi- 
 dent, Rev. T. R. ROBINSON, D.D. ; Mr. L. G. MILLS, Secretary ; Mr. 
 BENJAMIN P. DAVIDSON, Treasurer. 
 
 ST. MARK'S CHDBCH, 
 
 or Chapel of Ease, was originally erected in Primate Stewart's time, 
 near the public walks, to the eastward of the Cathedral. To accommo- 
 date the increasing Protestant population of the city, it has been con- 
 siderably enlarged and beautified, chiefly by the munificence of the 
 present Primate, and a congregational subscription. The church con- 
 tains about 1,200 sittings, of which 800 are free, but it is quite inade- 
 quate for the large number of people who frequent its simple service 
 during the summer months. It stands on an eminence fronting the 
 city, and forms a prominent object from the neighbouring hills. In 
 the interior are a number of very handsome monuments in statuary 
 marble.most of which were manufactured at the "Armagh Marble Works." 
 The workmanship is very superior, and reflects great credit on the enter- 
 prising spirit of the proprietor. 
 
 To the right of the graceful avenue leading to St. Mark's, stands a 
 very handsome Sunday School-house, erected at the expense of hia 
 Grace the Lord Primate. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Lord John George Beresford succeeded to the Primacy in 1822, and 
 to him may properly be ascribed the beautiful appearance which our 
 venerable Cathedral presents to the eye of the beholder. At what 
 period it was constructed, in the form which it has come down to the 
 present time, is a matter of great uncertainty. Inglis writes that it 
 is the " oldest Cathedral Church in Ireland. Part of this venerable 
 edifice was erected in the reign of Henry III, and the remainder part 
 in the time of Edward III." Shortly after his promotion to the See, 
 his Grace determined to repair the ancient structure, and Mr. Cot-
 
 34 RECORD OF THE 
 
 tingham, an eminent architect, was instructed to examine the building. 
 That gentleman having minutely examined it, gave a most favourable 
 report of its condition, stating that about 8,000 would put it into 
 serviceable order. This sum his Grace at once consented to pay. 
 The foundation stone of one of the piers was laid in great solemnity 
 on 21st May, 1834, in presence of about 6,000 persons, who came to 
 witness the interesting ceremony. During divine service, the Cathe- 
 dral Choir, assisted by an instrumental band placed on an orchestra, 
 temporarily fitted up, performed the Dettingen Te Deum, and several 
 anthems from the Messiah. 
 
 In a short memoir of the Cathedral published at the time by Mr. 
 John Davidson, M.R.I. A., we read that " in the prosecution of the 
 work, various discoveries interesting to the ArchaBlogist were made, 
 and the nobility and gentry manifested great interest in the completion 
 of the building by subscribing largely." The reconstruction of such an 
 ancient edifice soon became a matter of great importance, and Mr. Cot- 
 tingham was empowered to beautify and make such alterations as were 
 necessary for the permanence of th building. The total sum ex- 
 pended was 36,000, of which only 10,000 was raised by subscrip- 
 tion, the remainder being paid by his Grace the Lord Primate. 
 
 Armagh Cathedral measures in the clear 184 feet from east to west, 
 119 feet from north to south, and 59 feet across the nave and aisles. 
 The church is cruciform, the west end forming the principal entrance. 
 It is adorned with many ornamental and obituary windows, which 
 throw out a steady and " dim religious light." The lancet window in 
 the west end, as well as those in the north and south transepts contain 
 the armorial bearings of some Dignitaries of the Cathedral, and many of 
 the principal contributors to the repair of the building. In the aisles 
 are two obituary windows one to the memory of the late Dr. Kidd, 
 erected by his friends in 1852. The other records the deaths of Wra. 
 Blacker, who died 27th October, 1850, and of Rev. Samuel Blacker, 
 L.L.D., who died in 1849. Adjoining the south transept there is a 
 very handsome window, on which are designed the principal events of
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 35 
 
 our Saviour's life. It was presented by the Rev. Andrew Vogan, 
 rector of North Harden, diocese of Chichester, a native of this city, 
 and son of one of its oldest and most respectable inhabitants. 
 
 Of those iu the chancel, five in number, put up by the Lord Primate, 
 one contains the figures of the four Evangelists, designed and painted 
 by the late Mrs. Dunbar. One ornamental window over the Communion 
 table. One in memory of the Very Rev. Thomas E. Jackson, Dean 
 and Rector of Armagh, who died at Paris, August 3rd, 1843. 
 
 On the remaining two are inscribed 
 
 " Lady Catherine Beresford, who departed this life on 24th June, 
 " 1831, in the 66th year of her age." 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of the Lady Anne Beresford, daughter of 
 " George, First Marquis of Waterford, who departed this life in Dublin, 
 " November 24th, 1841, in the 62nd year of her age, and whose re- 
 " mains are interred in the family vault at Curraghmore, County 
 " Waterford." 
 
 The friends of the late Rev. Cosby Stopford Mangan, Rector of 
 Derrynoose (formerly Curate of Armagh), intend to mark their respect 
 for his character by perpetuating his memory by means of a memorial 
 window in this Cathedral. 
 
 In the aisles and chapter-room are many monuments of celebrity, 
 one in particular, erected to the memory of Dean Drelincourt, by Rysback, 
 as also one in memory of Sir Thomas Molyneux, Bart., M.D., by 
 Roubiliac. 
 
 In the tower there is a peal of eight bells, two of which were purchased 
 by the Lord Primate, thus frith a competent set of ringers might be 
 rung forty thousand three hundred and twenty changes. 
 
 By 15 and 16 Geo. III., the Cathedral is made the mother Church 
 of Armagh, instead of the old " Parish Church" where the Rector was 
 always inducted. Of this building there are at present no remains, 
 but in a view of the Cathedral given in the first volume of " Ware's 
 Bishops," taken in 1739, a very small fragment may be observed on 
 the south-east side. 
 
 During the winter months the Church is well lighted with gas, the
 
 36 RECORD OF THE 
 
 greater part of the expense attending the introduction of which was 
 borne by the present Dean. 
 
 Divine service is celebrated at the hour of half-past 10 every morning, 
 and at the hours of 11 and 3 on Sundays. The choral service is per- 
 formed in the most becoming solemnity by the choir, who were charac- 
 terised by the late Bishop of London as the " model choir" of these 
 countries. The Services and Anthems, with few exceptions, are chosen 
 from the good old school ; Handel, Boyce, Purcell, Green, Croft, 
 Blow, Farrant, Tallis, Weldon, &c., &c., whose staid compositions are 
 in strict keeping with the sacred services of the Church. To these 
 benefactors of Cathedral establishments may be added the name of 
 G. B. Allen, Mus. BAG. (a member of the Armagh Cathedral Choir), 
 who has written several anthems, which for beauty, simplicity, and 
 devotional feeling are deservedly admired. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL CHOIR. 
 
 King Charles I., 23rd May, 1635, by letters patent, ordered that there 
 shall be a company or college founded anew in the Church of St. 
 Patrick, Armagh, to consist of EIGHT VICARS CHORAL AND ONE ORGANIST, 
 to celebrate and administer divine service in the Church of St. Patrick 
 for ever, according to the laws and customs of said company. To this 
 body various tracts of land which had formerly belonged to the Culdees, 
 were granted by the charter. 
 
 Primate Lindsey afterwards increased the Royal grant by an outlay 
 of more than 4,000 in the purchase of a property in County Down. 
 
 VICARS CHORAL. 
 
 Rev. J. M. H. Strangways and Rev. James Hogan, Clerical Vicars. 
 
 George Scott, Ceteri desunt. 
 
 Robert Turle, Organist and Master of the Boys. 
 
 STIPENDIARIES. 
 
 George B. Allen, George D. Hughes, and A. TaJbot ALTOS. 
 Charles Wood, D. Thackery, J. Roberts, and W. Smith TENORS. 
 E, Rogers, W. Wood, J. Lee, N.M'N. Edmoudson, R. Calvert BASSES.
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 37 
 
 THE MUSIC HALL, 
 
 situated on Vicars'-Hill, is the property of the Vicars Choral, who hold a 
 concert there every Saturday evening for the practice of vocal and in- 
 strumental music. Under the guiding and restraining hand of the 
 late Rev. R. Allott, who took particular care in the maintenance of 
 instrumental music in connection with the Choir, Oratorios and the 
 works of all the great Masters can be produced in a very creditable 
 manner. At these rehearsals the Clerical Vicars with a few amateurs 
 take part in the performance. There is an organ and a very valuable 
 musical library in the Music Hall. In the purchase of this library, Mr. 
 Allott had always in mind the style of music which would be best 
 adapted for training the Choir to true Cathedral singing, and to his 
 superior judgment and practical knowledge of music may fairly be 
 attributed the high character which the Armagh Choir has obtained 
 in " all the churches." Membership in olden times with the College 
 at Armagh was a necessary recommendation for preferment in the 
 Irish Church. The successors of the Culdees in the same place 
 seem to have a similar honour conferred on their institution at the 
 present day, as the Cathedral Choir of Armagh has been a school of 
 discipline and a nursing mother to some of the best Cathedral Singers 
 in England. The original " Vicars Hall" stood in Castle-street, sup. 
 posed to be part of the remains of the old Culdee priory, which was 
 nearly opposite the Castle, from which the street derives its name. 
 Part of the grouted walls and arches of this castle remain to the pre- 
 sent day. 
 
 The many public buildings, religious houses, viz., Gaol and 
 Sessions-house, Post office, (on the site of which the late Mr. J. 
 Bennet built a house) and merchants' offices being in this locality, 
 would fairly lead us to conclude that it was the principal part of the 
 city. King James II in his retreat from Londonderry resided for a 
 time in a house in Market-street, at present occupied hy the Consta- 
 bulary ; even so late as during the Rebellion of 1798, Lord Wm. Ben- 
 tick occupied the same quarters, in command of the Northern District.
 
 ;$ RECORD OF THE 
 
 THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 
 
 This building, now in course of erection, is of the decorated style of 
 Gothic architecture, from the design of the late Thomas J. Duff, Esq., 
 of Newry, carried out with some deviation by J. J. M'Carthy, Esq., 
 A.R.H.A., and was commenced in 1840, the first stone having been 
 laid on St. Patrick's day in that year, by the late Most Rev. Archbishop 
 Crolly. The ground of the site is a beautifully-situated hill N.W. of 
 the city, and is part the property of Lord Cremorne and part that of 
 George Robinson, Esq., both of whom gave leases in perpetuity for the 
 purpose. It is built of the pale limestone, which abounds in the neigh- 
 bourhood, finely cut, and from its elevation and colour is seen a great 
 way off, the situation commanding a most extensive view of the sur- 
 rounding country. Its length from front to eastern window is 240 
 feet, length across the transepts 142 feet, altitude of roof 110, ditto of 
 western towers and spires 210 feet. There are four large windows of 
 grand dimensions, filled with beautiful tracery ; those of the choir and 
 transepts are flanked with octagonal towers carried up to a great height, 
 which gives the appearance of solidity chastened by their proportions, 
 and the taste displayed in the stone-cutting and workmanship. These 
 contrast well with the massiveness and strength of the western towers 
 and great carved door-way fronting the town. The interior is divided 
 into choir, nave, aisles, and transepts. The crossing of the roof is 
 supported by four grand arches nearly 80 feet high, and twenty lesser 
 ones of beautifully moulded white sandsone. The triforium range is 
 composed of twenty-four arches filled with elegant tracery, springing 
 from polished marble columns with numerous carvings and other em- 
 bellishments, suited to the sacred character of the building. The 
 clerestory windows are furnished with tracery uniform in character with 
 the lower range. 
 
 The High Altar is to occupy the space formed by the crossing of 
 the great arches of the choir ; east of this is the Lady Chapel, and the 
 Choir aisles north and south terminate in chapels. The altars in each 
 are to be of marble richly carved and ornamented.
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 89 
 
 The organ gallery extends across the entire nave at the entrance end, 
 and is so arranged that the organ when placed will not interrupt the 
 view of the beautiful west window which rises high into the gable, the 
 space between it and the door-way on the outside being filled up with 
 a range or gallery of elaborately carved niches. The ceiling is a conti- 
 nuous Gothic vault with moulded ribs dividing into panels, supported 
 on a series of groins springing from wall shafts and angel corbals. 
 
 Already there have been upwards of 30,000 expended on it, and 
 the present contract lately entered on (which is to finish it) exceeds 
 15,000, so that we may conclude the entire cost when finished and 
 ready for public worship, will be little short of 50,000, all of which 
 for so far has been raised by voluntary subscriptions, the town and 
 neighbourhood contributing about 7,000, the diocess at large about 
 8,000, and the rest collected throughout the kingdom, and the United 
 States England and Scotland being yet in reserve. 
 
 Twenty years ago this building was hardly thought of ; neither a site 
 to be had nor a pound in the treasury ; and of the whole sum expended, 
 and necessary for its completion, but about 10,000 remain to be col- 
 lected, and if we may judge by the past zeal and earnestness of the pre- 
 sent Ven. Archbishop, this sum will not be wanting in time. The present 
 contractor is bound to have it finished in the summer of 1 863 when no 
 doubt it will add much to the many attractions of our ancient city. 
 
 THE FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH 
 
 in Abbey-street, very near the site of the Abbey of SS. Peter and 
 Paul was built in 1722 from the ruins of that ancient church. This 
 locality is rendered interesting to the antiquary, as it originally con- 
 tained, besides the Abbey to which the great school was annexed, St. 
 Columba's Church (exactly opposite the Presbyterian frontage), with its 
 beautiful cross, and Dr. Greuber's school. The " Inn," where King James 
 II., on his way to the walls of Deny, and the " old knave Schomberg," 
 slept ; the latter fully bent on driving Teig O'Regan out of the Castle 
 of Charlemont ; and the " Gravel Walks" the only spot in Armagh 
 where John Wesley, in 1767 was permitted to preach the word of God.
 
 40 RECORD OF THE 
 
 Concerning the building of this house, Dr. Stuart says, " While 
 the workmen were engaged in preparing the materials, Dean 
 Swift, accompanied by a friend, went to the place and found the 
 masons busily occupied in smoothing a number of curiously carved 
 stones adorned with grotesque heads and the figures of cherubs which 
 had probably been sculptured in the days of Imar O'Haedagan. " See," 
 said Swift, turning to his friend " these fanatic Puritans are chisel- 
 ling Popery out of the very stones." 
 
 In connection with this church, there has been erected in College- 
 street, adjoining the Court-house, a very handsome Sabbath and 
 Day School, at an expense of 1,100. The building is 66 feet 
 long by 23 feet wide, in the clear, and has on its front an open 
 Bible wrought in stone, with the words " Remember the Sab- 
 bath Day, to keep it holy," and " Suffer little children to come 
 unto me," surrounded by a scroll, on which is inscribed, "Train 
 up a child in the way he should go." The interior is handsomely 
 fitted up, and very commodious. The upper apartment, containing 
 the congregational library is devoted to public lectures and the female 
 school. The lower, which is appropriated to the male school, has a 
 mural tablet, bearing the following inscription : 
 
 " The foundation stone of this building, erected for Educational 
 ' purposes, was laid on XXVII August, 1857, by Meredith Arm- 
 ' strong, of this city, Surgeon, who, together with a liberal donation 
 ' in aid of the work, presented the site rent free, to the First Pres- 
 ' byterian Congregation of Armagh, to be held in trust by the Minister 
 'and his successors for ever." 
 
 The inscription on the handsome silver trowel which was used on the 
 occasion completes the history of this interesting establishment : 
 
 " Presented to Meredith Armstrong, Esq:, by the Rev. J. Hall, 
 " and the members of the First Congregation, Armagh, on his laying 
 " the foundation of their Sabbath and Day School, originated by his 
 "judicious liberality, 27th August, 1858." 
 
 The total sum expended on the institution by Mr. M. Armstrong 
 exceeded 500. J. W. Barre, Esq., Architect : Mr. John Farr, Con- 
 tractor and Builder.
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 41 
 
 THE WESLEYAN METHODIST CHAPEL. 
 
 It is recorded that on the occasion of John Wesley's attempting to preach 
 in Armagh on 15th April, 1767, a Town Constable went to him and 
 said : " Sir, the Sovereign orders me to inform you, that you shall not 
 preach in this town." At six o'clock, however, he proceeded to the 
 Market house and commenced his discourse, which was interrupted by 
 Mr. Harcourt, who was that year Sovereign of the city. At this mo- 
 ment he was invited by Mr. Wm. M'Geough, a wealthy merchant, to 
 preach in his avenue (the gravel walk), near the old School-house in 
 Abbey-street. 
 
 After Mr. "Wesley's first visit to Armagh in 1 767, a society was orga- 
 nized, which in a short time increased in numbers and respectability. 
 The place where this infant Church first assembled for public worship 
 was an humble cottage in Thomas-street, appropriated for that purpose. 
 In process of time the house became too small, and in 1786 a neat and 
 commodious Chapel was erected in Abbey-street, near the spot where 
 the founder of the society preached his first sermon in Armagh. In 
 1835 a much larger and more handsome edifice was built on the same 
 site, capable of accommodating 400 persons. In the inside of the 
 chapel is a mural tablet, on which is inscribed 
 
 " Sacred to the memory of Mr. JOHN NOBLE, of the City of Armagh, 
 " who for half a century discharged the duties of a Local Preacher with 
 " unwavering fidelity and unwearied zeal. This testimonial of regard 
 " is erected by those friends who revered him for his ardent piety, as a 
 " tribute of respect for his worth, of love for his virtues, and of regret 
 " for his loss. Died August 5, 1827. Aged 69 years." 
 
 The approach to this place of worship was long marred by a number 
 of low thatched cabins which destroyed the appearance of the street, 
 and considerably lessened the value of the adjoining property. With 
 regard to the purchase of these unsightly ruins much difficulty was 
 experienced owing to the number of tenures. However, one of the 
 trustees of the society, by a happy combination of circumstances, suc- 
 ceeded in purchasing the entire premises. On this spot is now 
 erected the
 
 43 RECORD OF THE 
 
 SABBATH AND DAY SCHOOL-HOUSE, 
 
 the foundation stone of which was laid by Dr. Lynn, in presence of a 
 large and respectable assembly, with a silver trowel, on which was en- 
 graved : " Presented to Joseph M. Lynn, Esq., M.D., by the Armagh 
 Wesleyan Society, on the occasion of his laying the first stone of their 
 new School-house, August 19, 1859, as a mark of their high estimation 
 of his character, and gratitude for his untiring and successful efforts in 
 promoting so desirable an object." 
 
 This edifice, measuring in the clear 52 feet in length by 19 broad, 
 was opened 10th June, 1859. J. W. Barre, of Newry, Esq., Architect ; 
 Mr. Thomas Ross, of Armagh, Contractor and Builder. 
 
 His Grace the Lord Primate contributed 140, and the Toll Com- 
 mittee 75, in consideration of enlarging the street and beautifying the 
 approach to the Cathedral. The entire cost, including the purchase of 
 tenements, amounted to 1,000, of which Dr. Lynn contributed 200. 
 
 ARMAGH DBELINCOUBT SCHOOL. 
 
 Extract from Report of the Endowed School Commissioners. 
 
 FOUNDATION. 
 
 Burgesses and Commonalty gave grant of 8 acres, 1 rood and 8 
 perches, on 25th September, 1838. Primate Boulter gave grant of 
 13 acres, roods, and 31 perches ; and Mrs. Drelincourt grant of fee 
 farm rent of 90, on 12th June, 1747. Primate Robinson also gave 
 a renewable lease of 115 acres. The estimated value of the premises 
 is 17 10s. 7d., and the net annual income from the land amounts to 
 224 15s. lid. 
 
 OBJECT. 
 
 For the establishment of a charity working school for 20 boys and 20 
 girls, to be boarded, lodged, and instructed in linen manufacture, hus- 
 bandry, and housewifery ; two scholars to be nominated by the Rector 
 of Clonfeacle, and the remainder by the Rector of Armagh. 
 
 MASTER'S SALARY, &. 
 
 The annual salary of the Master is 64 ; the apartments and garden 
 are valued at 10 ; of this the Mistress gets share ; there is
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 43 
 
 mce of 3 per annum for an assistant. The course of instruction 
 includes reading, writing, grammar, geography, arithmetic, Euclid, 
 mensuration, and bookkeeping together with the Scriptures and 
 Church Catechism. 50 of the boys get their education free the rest 
 pay a penny a week. 
 
 Extract Jrom the Report of Edward Pennefather, Esq., Assistant 
 Commissioner, who inspected the School. 
 
 7?? ty J 078 are DOW clothed ann lly out of the Trust Funds 
 With reference to this appropriation of the funds, it was stated to 
 me that in 1834 a petition was presented to the Court of Chancery by 
 the Lord Primate and the then Rector of Armagh, upon which an 
 order of reference to the Master in Chancery was made, to approve of 
 a proper scheme for the future regulation and management of this 
 trust estate, including the school. The Master made his report 
 which was confirmed, and the present management is in accordance 
 therewith. 
 
 THE MALL SCHOOL 
 
 was erected by Primate Stuart in 4818. According to the Report of 
 the Commissioners for inquiring into Endowed Schools, we have as 
 follows : 
 
 FOUNDATION. Primate Stuart, deed of Charge, 7th Nov., 1820, to 
 Dean and Chapter of Armagh, house property, and 969 4s. Govern- 
 ment Stock. 2,000 expended in building ; site held in fee. 
 
 CODESE OF INSTRUCTION. Reading, writing, grammar, geography, 
 arithmetic, Euclid, algebra, mensuration, book keeping, Scriptures ; 
 Church Catechism to those who do not object. 
 
 ST. PATRICK'S COLLEGE, 
 
 adjoining the Roman Catholic Cathedral, is the Diocesan R.C. College of 
 St. Patrick, founded by the late Ven. Archbishop Crolly, for the education 
 and training of students for Maynooth. It was intended to accommodate 
 100 boys, and has lately been much enlarged and improved by the 
 present resident Dean the Rev. J. M'Mahon, who has done much to 
 add to the convenience and comfort of the scholars. It is open to day 
 pupils from the town, who largely avail themselves of its advantages.
 
 44 RECORD OF THE 
 
 CHRISTIAN BROTHERS' SCHOOLS, GREENPARK. 
 
 These Schools were opened here on the 24th Nov., 1851, and are a 
 branch of the Institute founded in Waterford in 1802, after the model 
 of De la Salle of Paris, by the late Edmond J. Rice, a wealthy mer- 
 chant of that city, who retired from business and devoted the remaining 
 years of his life to the establishment of these schools. The institution 
 is conducted here by a superior and two assistant " Brothers," and is for 
 male children only. Between 300 and 400 pupils attend daily. 
 
 CONVENT OF THE SACRED HEART, 
 
 a religious establishment, first opened here at the Pavilion in 1852 for 
 the double purpose of religion and education. The present building 
 has been erected since then, at a cost of upwards of 7,000, and is most 
 commodiously laid off, having class-rooms, refectories, and dormitories 
 for upwards of 100 pupils, with chapel, &c., &c., and a large extent of 
 pleasure ground for exercise. The site was judiciously chosen for 
 health and prospect, on a hill westward of the city, the property of Miss 
 Quinn. (Rocque erroneously makes the Windmill-hill the site of Na 
 Fearta, or the church of wonders.) It is presided over by a superioress 
 and a number of Nuns who superintend the educational department. 
 There are about 60 young ladies at present in the Institution. In 
 connexion with the Convent is a School for the education of the female 
 children of the poor, under the National Board, where they are also 
 instructed gratuitously by the Nuns in all the useful branches of needle- 
 work and female industry. 
 
 Besides the public buildings already enumerated, there is a Roman 
 Catholic Chapel situated to the South East of the Cathedral, and the 
 site is marked by Rocque as the place where St. Bridget's Church 
 stood. On these premises was found the seal of one of tho Deans of 
 Armagh, namely, Joseph, Dean from 1256 to 1262, bearing the legend, 
 f S. JOSEB DECANI AKDMACHANI. The Dublin Penny Journal, (vol. 
 II., p. 112) contains a description of this Seal. 
 
 Two Presbyterian Churches, the Tabernacle in College-street, used 
 by the "Independent" denomination; a Primitive Wesleyan Chapel,
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 45 
 
 in Abbey-street, occupying the site where John Wesley preached ; 
 the Protestant Hall and Reading Room ; the Shambles, erected by 
 his Grace the Lord Primate, in 1827 ; and the Savings' Bank estab- 
 lishment in 1818 Actuary, Mr. Thomas Smith. 
 
 PKIMATE ROBINSON. 
 
 The inhabitants of Armagh have not done justice to the memory of 
 their great benefactor, Primate Robinson. He found their city a nest 
 of mud and wattle cottages, and left it adorned with public buildings 
 of great architectural beauty. He distributed upwards of 40,000 in 
 these great and noble works, without the remotest view to the present 
 or future interest of himself or family, and has left unfading monuments 
 of virtue, benevolence, and patriotism. In addition to these public 
 charities, he left 1,000 to assist in building a Chapel of Ease, with 
 an acre of ground for its site, between the Barracks arid Royal 
 School; 1,000 to the County Infirmary; to the Corporation of 
 Armagh, 200 in trust, " that they may advance a sum of money on 
 a proper security to any tradesman or artificer that will engage to 
 settle in the City of Armagh on the expiration of their apprentice- 
 ships ; 200 to the Charitable Loan of Armagh, and 200 to the 
 poor of the parish. " I give and bequeath," said he in his will, " to 
 the Governors and Guardians of the Armagh Library, 5,000 in 
 trust, to be disposed of by them at their discretion, for the use of 
 another University, which may be hereafter established in Ulster, 
 provided that the incorporation of such an University shall be com- 
 pleted in five years after my decease," and lastly, " I desire my re- 
 mains may be deposited in the Cathedral Church of Armagh, as that 
 City has been the principal place of my residence since my advance- 
 ment to the primacy, and the inhabitants have been witnesses to the 
 regular exertions of my mind for a succession of years, in promoting 
 a variety of public works for the future benefit and improvement of 
 that ancient City, in which the Christian religion was first preached 
 in Ireland." 
 
 The only record which we have of this great and good man, is a friw/, 
 erected by his nephew to his memory in the Cathedral a monument 
 altogether unworthy of so exalted a character. Verb. sap. 
 You all did love him once, not without cause ; 
 What cause withholds you theu to mourn for him ?
 
 46 RECORD OF THE 
 
 MODERN IMPROVEMEKTS. 
 
 Since the death of Primate Robinson, great changes have taken place 
 in Armagh, effected chiefly by the improved taste and enterprising 
 spirit of its inhabitants, and partly by the Town Commissioners and 
 liberality of the Toll Committee, \vho have always manifested a laudable 
 zeal for the cleanliness and improvement of the city. His Grace the 
 Lord Primate has also rendered effective service by subscribing largely 
 when occasion required, by which means the footpaths of the city have 
 been kept constantly flagged in a neat and substantial manner. In 
 fact it would be difficult to find in this country, a town whose affairs 
 are more judiciously or more honestly conducted than those of Armagh. 
 
 THE TOLL COMMITTEE, 
 
 in the year 1855, partly by purchase and partly by gift, procured from 
 W. Jenkinson and Charles Cavanagh, Esqrs,, half an acre of ground in 
 Irish-street, which they converted into a neat, commodious and excellent 
 Flax. Market, at an expense of 500. For this outlay the Committee 
 derive no manner of remuneration, their sole object being the extension 
 of trade and general improvement of the city. This new enclosure has 
 been of infinite service to the adjacent locality, as the vast quantities of 
 flax, the produce of the surrounding country, which had been previously 
 exposed for sale or tendered to the various flax-buyers in the streets 
 during winter, caused great irregularity and completely obstructed the 
 thoroughfare. 
 
 To suit the convenience of victuallers and the public, who complained 
 that the old Shambles were inconveniently situated and out of the 
 general traffic, the Toll Committee, in 1857, expended 400 in erect- 
 ing a New Meat Market, from which they derive an income of about 
 13 per annum. Part of the old Shambles is used as a Hide Market, 
 and it is in contemplation to appropriate the remainder of the building 
 in the establishment of a Market for Irish-grown hay, grass, and flax 
 seeds. 
 
 The Egg and Poultry market which was formerly held in the Linen 
 Hall, is now transferred to the premises on the South side of Dobbin-
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 47 
 
 street, lately occupied by Mr. William Boyd. This change was ren- 
 dered necessary in order to relieve the Butter Market, which has so 
 rapidly increased of late, as to be of the greatest benefit to the butter 
 producers in this neighbourhood. In carrying out this desirable ac- 
 commodation, the Toll Committee expended 500. 
 
 THE PIPE WATER COMMISSIONERS 
 
 finding that the supply of water through the wooden pipes, laid down 
 in 1800 by Messrs. Thomas Prentice, William Cochrane, William 
 Me Williams, and John Singleton, were not only partially decayed, but 
 also insufficient in capacity of bore to supply the inhabitants effectually 
 with water, substituted a nine inch metal Main pipe, running from the 
 reservoir to College-street the cost of which, with collateral branches 
 to the side streets, was about 1200. This necessary expenditure was 
 most valuable to the inhabitants, as in 1848, the tenants, 300 in num- 
 ber were constantly demanding water, which, under the old plan could 
 not have been supplied. Under the present arrangement, the houses 
 of 470 inhabitants receive a sufficiency of water at stated hours 
 during the week, the regularity of which is guaranteed by the faithful 
 serveillance of their Secretary, Mr. Robert Cochrane. 
 
 In addition to this, the Commissioners have erected four public 
 Fountains in places best suited to the wants and accommodation of 
 the poor, to whom this generous provision, both in a sanitary and use- 
 ful point of view, must be a great blessing and convenience. 
 
 ARMAGH MARBLE. 
 
 The quantity of building materials necessary for the erection of public 
 edifices in the time of Primate Robinson, caused the opening of several 
 quarries on the south side of the city. The Marble procured from this 
 locality has been used from time immemorial for ornamental and other 
 useful purposes. Even now the nobility and gentry of this and the 
 Sister Country are occasionally supplied with handsome chimney-pieces 
 and mural tablets from the extensive " Marble Works" of Mr. David 
 M'Cullough. The pathways being generally composed of this material, 
 has led to the belief that Armagh streets are paved with marjble.
 
 45 RECORD OF THE 
 
 " Near the city of Armagh," writes Wilkinson, "there is a light- 
 coloured limestone of excellent quality, and it is extensively used in 
 the buildings of the town. Its colour is a light pinkish grey, very 
 fossiliverous, and takes a very good polish. When polished it shews a 
 warm yellowish colour, but when worked by the tool it is whitish, and 
 is commouly used both for rubble and cut stone. Beds of a redder 
 colour alternate with the white stone, and are worked into chimney- 
 pieces and other ornamental works, but are not used externally." 
 
 PUBLIC WALKS. 
 
 THE MALL. 
 
 In 1797 Primate Newcome granted a lease of a certain portion of " The 
 Commons," extending from the Gaol to the Court-house, to the Sove- 
 reign and Burgesses of the city, for the purpose of making a public 
 walk for the inhabitants. The Park, containing seven or eight acres, 
 is traversed with walks and encircled with a double row of beech, elm, 
 and sycamore trees, on the outside of which runs a parapet wall coped 
 with cut stone. 
 
 In these grounds is placed a large gun, the only trophy which we possess 
 of the Crimean war. It was captured from the enemy at Sebastopol by 
 the bravery of our troops, and presented by Government to the inhabitants 
 of Armagh, some of whose sons fell "fighting for their country." 
 With this Trophy and the Monument to his memory in the Cathedral, 
 is associated the fate of one of her bravest sons, Lieut. THOMAS 
 OSBORNE KIDD, R.N., who fell in the attack on the Redan on the 
 18th of June, 1855. 
 
 To the south of this memorial stands a handsomest d'eau, placed there 
 to commemorate the occasion of the " Great National Show" being held 
 in Armagh in 1854. 
 
 THE PAVILION. 
 
 On the north east side, adjoining the Session-house, is the " Pavilion," 
 the property of Mr. Stanley, who contributes much to the enjoyment 
 of the inhabitants by throwing open the " grounds" at seasonable hours. 
 Not many years ago there was within twenty yards of the handsome 
 entrance to the Pavilion, a pool of water surrounded by an embankment 
 of earth which was then known as the Horse Pond. The face of the hill
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 49 
 
 to the north and east of the residence of Mr. Stanley was originally 
 denominated Knockmeala, i.e. the hill of honey so called from the 
 number of bees which were always found there. 
 
 DOBBIN'S WALKS 
 
 present to the eye of the delighted visitor a number of miniature 
 beauties. Within the three quarters of a mile the extent of the 
 vale, there is a diversity of pictures which art and nature appear to 
 Lave entered into rivalry to produce. There is an impetuous little 
 torrent splashing and sparkling over rocks and little waterfalls, catch- 
 ing here and there, wherever it can, a glimpse of sunlight from the 
 dense foliage which hangs over it. 
 
 " So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
 The scenery of a fairy dream." 
 
 Then it turns into a placid dark stream, flowing at the foot of a 
 sloping lawn, then up again another turn, and lo ! a miniature Dargle, 
 little cliffs with great trees forming a network of roots over them, and 
 sometimes even across the stream. Then there is a large waterfall, 
 and above it, the greatest surprise of all, a peaceful, beautiful lake. 
 On one side a hill clothed with trees to the water's edge on the other, 
 a hill " with verdure clad," and a well kept gravel walk at its foot. It 
 is a fairy scene, " delightful to the sense," and we almost expect to 
 find some of the good people peeping out on us as we turn round some 
 little crag, or climb to the top of some little precipice 
 
 Here amid the shady woods, 
 
 Fragrant flowers and crystal floods, 
 
 Taste, my soul, this charming seat, 
 
 Love and Glory's calm retreat. 
 
 KILDARTON LAKE. 
 
 Within a mile and-a-half (east) of Armagh, lies luldarton Lake, or as 
 it is called " Hibernice" Lowry's Lough, from a person of that 
 name who is supposed to have been drowned there a great many years 
 ago. Were this charming spot within the regular line of Tourists' 
 ramblings, the Armachienses would soon discover that they have some 
 little bits of scenery equal at least to the much vaunted gems of
 
 SO RECORD OF THE 
 
 County Wicklow. Imagine a sheet of beautiful clear, deep blue 
 water lying nestled in a hollow, amidst hills rising in graceful undu- 
 lations ; not smothered, but inlaid with groups of planting, surrounded 
 on all sides by a belt of lofty trees which overshadow a grassy walk 
 completely encircling the water an island covered with trees and 
 brushwood down to the water's edge, nay, growing out of the water 
 itself. Listen to the cheerful notes of the different wild fowl with 
 which the surface of the lake is covered, and thank the Armagh 
 Commissioners, who keep in order for the public use, so charming and 
 beautiful a promenade. 
 
 The accompanying Circular, issued in 1839, gives a full description 
 of this Lake and Pleasure ground : 
 
 IMPROVEMENT OF LDWRv's LAKE. 
 
 A few gentlemen in this city, in conjunction with the " Commissioners 
 of Pipe Water," being anxious for the preservation and improvement 
 of Lowry's Lake, formed a project for attaining both these ends. To 
 carry their views into effect, they raised a considerable sum, by sub- 
 scription, with which they have nearly completed a beautiful riding 
 ground and promenade, which surround the lake. The funds, how- 
 ever, are now exhausted ; and, in order to raise the necessary sum to 
 complete the works, it is proposed to admit about twenty additional 
 subscribers, of 1 each to the original list, whereby they and their 
 families will be privileged to use the grounds during the life-time of 
 such subscribers. When the list has been filled up, future subscribers, 
 except the representatives of the original subscribers, will not be ad- 
 mitted under 2 each. Ample funds could easily be obtained by 
 voluntary donations ; but the committee feel that such a mode of 
 raising money would defeat the object which should be kept in view 
 namely, giving to the grounds about the lake, as far as it is possible, 
 the security and protection of private property. 
 
 Lowry's Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, calmly embosomed 
 among the surrounding hills ; and as it is the only lake in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of Armagh, and the reservoir from which the city is sup- 
 plied with water, it is desirable and necessary that it should be care- 
 fally preserved. 
 
 In consequence of the improvements which the committee have 
 accomplished, they have boon enabled to prevent persons from bathing 
 ja the lake, while, at the same time, they have added four feot iu th$
 
 CITY OF ARMAGH. 51 
 
 depth of the water, thus preserving its purity, and augmenting the 
 supply to the inhabitants of Armagh. 
 
 On the embankment, within the fence, the delightful exercise 
 ground is nearly a mile in length, and is now available to the subscri- 
 bers and their friends alone. In the lake there is a small island, 
 which has been tastefully laid out and planted, and on which a flag- 
 staff has been reared, from which " the British Ensign proudly floats." 
 A boat, the property of one of the subscribers, has been generously 
 placed, by that gentleman, at the command of those privileged to 
 enter within the grounds. 
 
 On the summit of the hill at the N.E. side of the Lake stands 
 Kildarton Church, a plain and unpretending structure, completely 
 embosomed in lofty trees. It is built close to one of the most ancient 
 grave yards in the country, in the midst of which was formerly either 
 a Church or some Religious establishment. In fact, a few years ago 
 the whole face of the hill, East of the Lake, now in possession of Mrs. 
 Dobbin, was one great cemetery, and yet bears traces of the past. 
 
 The Tripartite life of St. Patrick states, " Thither (Armagh) also 
 came on a pilgrimage, the nine daughters of the King of the Longbardi, 
 and Monessin, daughter of the King of Britain. They arrived at 
 Coll-na-ningen, (i.e., the Hazelwood of the Virgins) on the East of 
 Armagh, and three of them were afterwards buried there. The rest 
 were directed to go to Druim-Finnedha, and one, namely Crumtheris, 
 took up her abode at Ceanngoba, (i.e., the hill of grief), near Armagh, 
 on the East, where she founded a religious cell." Dr. Petrie appears to 
 have had some information as to the locality, for he says, p. 350 : 
 "A still earlier example of a stone oratory, in the neighbourhood of 
 Armagh one coeval with St. Patrick himself, and of which so me 
 ruins yet remain is preserved to us in the Tripartite life of St. 
 Patrick." 
 
 Dr. Reeves writes, " I have been unable to ascertain where 
 this was. It would be well if some of those who are acquainted 
 with this neighbourhood would determine the place ho alludes to. I 
 may mention, however, that the tradition of the country connects the 
 memory of the nine pilgrims with Armaghbreague, in Upper Fews." 
 
 If a conjecture on the subject might be hazarded, it is most probable 
 that Kildarton is the spot which Dr. Petrie refers to, for it is the only 
 place " east of Armagh" where even the slightest trace remains of eccle- 
 siastical ruins ; and moreover the name Ceanngoba, " the hill of grief,"
 
 62 RECORD OF THE CITY OF ARMAGH. 
 
 not only appropriately describes the " city of the dead," but the present 
 name by which the townland is known Ternascobe, is not only similar 
 in sound but also in form to the more ancient one above mentioned. 
 The name of the Parish, Kildarton, also serves to identify the site, 
 as the Irish Cille or Kit denotes both a sepulchre and a church. 
 The oldest inhabitant affirms that in his youth the walls of the building 
 (oblong, east and west) were seven feet high ; the remains of which were 
 long since used for building purposes. An excavation was lately made, and 
 a portion of a well-fitting pavement was uncovered about five feet below 
 the present surface, but the vast mass of mouldering carcases which 
 have turned it into a charnel-house renders for the present further dis- 
 coveries impossible. 
 
 From Ceanngoba, following the course of the lake and passing the 
 " rocky field," we come to a locality which in olden times was covered 
 with hazel trees. Many bushes of this description still remain, 
 but the Chronicler of the district complains that they are " much 
 harrished by the poor people for fire-wood, but what can we do ?" The 
 common tradition of the country states that this place being so thickly 
 studded with hazel trees in olden times was called the " hill of hazels.'' 
 In turning over the soil several coins have been found from time to time. 
 Between this site (to which I think we may fairly give the ancient namp-ei" 
 Coll-na-ningen) and Ceanngoba is the " rocky field," from which 
 immense quantities of masonry, which the country people call "streets," 
 have been removed. 
 
 As it is probable that this interesting discovery may form the subject 
 
 of a separate notice, I shall say no more, trusting that 
 
 some more competent person may be tempted 
 
 from reading these few remarks, to 
 
 undertake further researches. 
 
 FINIS.
 
 ALPHABETICAL INDEX, 
 
 Abbey of S3. Peter and Paul 
 
 ' Oj <\j 
 
 street, Ancient Buildings in . . . . QQ 
 
 Franciscan .. . a 
 
 Lane 
 
 Armagh, City of .. .. 
 
 Ancient names by which it was known . . 
 
 Description of . . * 
 
 Ancient Topography of . . . . . . 10 
 
 Consumed by Fire passim .. .. 35 
 
 Extent of .. n IT 
 
 ' * ) -* 
 
 Asylum, District Lunatic o 
 
 <s 
 
 Barracks, Military .. .. .. %Q 
 
 Bells of Armagh Cathedral .. .. ,. 21 35 
 
 Bell, Ecclesiastical, of Armagh .. .. iy 
 
 Beresford, Primate peusim .-, . . . . .. 23 27 33 
 
 Bishop's Court, The .. .. .. .. .'. ' 9 ' 13 
 
 Book of Armagh 
 
 Boulter, Primate .. .. .. .. 22 29 
 
 Brian Bora 
 
 Jo 
 
 Bridewell, The Old .. oa 
 
 #9 
 
 Camden's Description of Armagh.. .. ;. JQ 
 
 Castle at Armagh . . . . . . 
 
 Cathedral, The .. .. '/. 3, li,' 19, 2 1, 33 
 
 The Mother Chnrch of Armagh . . . . 35 
 
 1 Roman Catholic .... 33 
 Chapel of Ease .... 23 
 Roman Catholio 
 
 w w * ^t^fc 
 
 Choir of Armagh . . , . . . , , 36 37 
 
 Church, St. Mark's and School .. .. .. 33 
 
 Churches, Ancient Irish . . . . . . 3 
 
 of Armagh, Dr, Beeves'.. .. .. n
 
 64 ALPHABETICAL INDEX CONTINUED. 
 
 Churches of lisnadill and Grange . . . . 
 
 College, or Royal School 
 
 . E.C. of St. Patrick 
 
 Commissioners, Pipe Water .. .. ..47,50 
 
 Convent of the Sacred Heart 
 Court House 
 
 ofProbate 
 
 CrieveEow 
 
 Crosses, Ancient, of Armagh 
 
 Culdean Monastery .. .. - ..7,11,37 
 
 27 
 Deanery, The 
 
 21 
 Desert Lane . . 
 
 f\ff 
 
 Dispensary, The .. .. 
 
 Dohbin's Walks 
 
 Emania and the Eed Branch Knights . . 
 
 FlaxMarket .. .. 46 
 
 27 
 Fever Hospital .. 
 
 Fearta, Templum Na .. .. 
 
 Gaol, The.. 
 
 Gallows Hill, The .. .. - 9 ' 21 
 
 Greuber, Dr. see College 
 
 O1 O'l' 
 
 Hampton, Primate 
 
 Holinshed'a Account of Armagh . . . . 
 
 Improvements, Modern 
 
 Infirmary, The County / " " 27 
 
 ( 
 
 James II. visits Armagh, .. * -- ' 
 
 Kildarton Church and Lake, 
 
 i Antiquarian Eesearches at 
 
 Kiln for Making Lime at Armagh, in 1145 . . 
 
 Knights of the Eed Branch 
 
 Lake, Parkamore .. . .
 
 ALPHABETICAL INDEX CONTINUED. 55 
 
 Lake Lapp an .. .. .. .. 32 
 
 Library at Armagh . . . . . . . . 24 
 
 Lindsey, Primate .. .. ..21,36 
 
 Macan's Asylum for the Blind . . . . 28 
 
 Mall, The.. .. .. .. *8 
 
 Marble, Armagh .. .. ..9, 33, 47 
 
 Market House . . . . 29 
 
 street, the chief place of business . . . . . . 37 
 
 Monasteries, Suppression of . . . . 13 
 
 Monuments in Armagh . . . . 33, 35 
 
 Moryson's Account of the Irish . . . . . . . 20 
 
 Music Hall .. .. .. .. 37 
 
 Natural History and Philosophical Society [.. .. .. 32 
 
 Nial Caille Drowned in the Callan . . . . . . . . 16 
 
 Observatory, The .. .. .. 26 
 
 Octavian de Palato on the manners of the People of Armagh . . 19 
 
 O'Scannail builds the Great Church of Armagh . . . . 19 
 
 Palace, The Archbishops .. .. 22 
 
 Patrick, Saint, Account of 
 
 Parliament, Curious Act of . . . . 
 
 Pavilion, The .. .. .. .. 48 
 
 Presbyterian Church and School, The First or Abbey . . . 39 
 
 Protestant Hall and Reading Boom . . . . . 21 
 
 Rath, The .. .. .. .. .. 12,17 
 
 Registry Office, Metropolitan . . . . . . . . 25 
 
 Richhill, Village of .. .. .. .. ..22,23 
 
 Robinson, Primate .. .. . . .. ..22,45 
 
 Barings' Bank . . . . . . . 45 
 
 Schomberg, Duke, Visits Armagh . . . . . 2L 
 
 School, Founded by St. Patrick . . . . . 5 
 
 Royal .. .. .. .. .. 25 
 
 Drelincourt .. .. 42 
 
 Mall .. .. 34
 
 50 ALPHABETICAL INDEXCONTINUED. 
 
 School, Presbyterian . . , . . . . . . . 49 
 
 Wesleyan . . . . . . . . . . 45 
 
 Christian Brothers .. .. .. .. 44 
 
 Session House, The Old . . . . . . . . 81 
 
 Shambles .. .. .. .. .. .. 45,40 
 
 Strabo on the Manners of the Irish . . . . . . 20 
 
 Streets, Thomas and Ogle . . . . . . . . 22 
 
 Dobbin street and Barrack Hill .. .. .. 30 
 
 Synod held by Gelasius at Armagh .. .. .. ]8 
 
 Toll Committee . . . . . . , . . . 46 
 
 Tontine Assembly Kooms .. .. . .. 30 
 
 Vicars Choral , . . . . . . . . . 35 
 
 Hall, The Old .. .. .. .. 97 
 
 Walks, Public, at Armagh .. ,. .. 48 
 
 Wesleyan Chapel and School .. .. .. .. 41 
 
 Widows' Houses, Endowed by Primate Boulter .. .. 23 
 
 Windows, Stained Glass .. .. .. ,. 34
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 
 
 IN 
 
 MAGH AND fYRONEJ 
 
 BY 
 
 ,DWARD 
 
 I 
 
 DKPVTV LIBRARIAN, ARMAGH PUBLIC LIBRARY. 
 
 S IE C O H5T ID IE ID I T I O 
 
 MDCCCLXXIV.
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 THE RIVER CALLAN AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 TEE ANCIENT SCHOOL OB COLLEGE OF ARMAGH. 
 
 THE CASTLE OF ARMAGH. 
 
 THE PRIMATIAL RESIDENCE AT ARMAGH. 
 
 THE CITY OF ARMAGH 100 TEARS AGO. 
 
 THE MOTRE PASS. 
 
 THE FIGHT AT THE MOTRE, (Bealach na Mhaighre), ANNO: 1600. 
 
 CAPTAIN WILLIAMS AND THE BLACKWATER FORT. 
 
 CAPTURE OF THE CASTLE AND GARRISON OF ARMAGH. 
 
 BATTLE OF THE YELLOW FORD. 
 
 SITE OF THE BATTLE OF BELLANABOT, OR YELLOW FORD. 
 
 SIR HENRY BAGENALL'S MARCH TO THE YELLOW FORD. 
 
 THE OLD ROAD OR "COMMON HIGHWAY" FROM ARMAGH TO BELLANABOY AND 
 BLACKWATERTOWN. 
 
 THE FORTS ON THE BLACKWATEB. 
 
 THE NEW FORT. 
 
 CHARLEMONT FORT ON THE BLACKWATER. 
 
 "THE ROYAL ARTILLEREE." 
 
 MOUNTJOY FORT ON LOUGH SIDNEY, (ANNO: 1602). 
 
 TYRONE'S SUBMISSION AND FLIGHT OF THE EARLS. 
 
 SIDNEY CASTLE ON DERRYWARRAOH ISLAND.
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES 
 
 ABMAGH, AND TYBONE. 
 
 THE RIVER CALLAN AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS, 
 
 fHE first mention made of this ancient river appears in the Annals of the Four Masters, 
 which states, that in the reign of Tighearnmas Monarch of Ireland, in the year of 
 the world 3656, or 348 years before the Christian era, the three black rivers of Ire- 
 land burst forth, viz., Fubhna (Oona River in Tyrone) Forann and Caillainna, " at Ard- 
 mach." Leaving the stream to pursue the uneven tenor of its course for centuries, it turns 
 up again in the year 846 in connection with Niall III., King of Ireland ; who, from subse- 
 quent events, is known to posterity by the name of Niall Caille. This Niall was the ancestor 
 of Brian O'Neill and Monarch of Ireland from the'year 833 to 846, when he was drowned in 
 the river Callan "near Ardmach " from which he received the appellation of "Caille." 
 
 About this time the Danes or Normans made a fort and had shipping on Lough Neagh 
 for the purpose of spoiling and wasting the North of Ireland ; and the annals record that iu 
 the year 839, the city of Ardmacha, with its oratories and great church were burned down 
 by the Danes from Lough Neagh. On the death of Niall, Malachy mounted the throne. 
 The Danes overran the kingdom and struck terror throughout the land ; and the king con- 
 vened the States at Ardmacha to consult for the general safety and expulsion of the invaders, 
 
 " During the reign of Niall Caille writes Stuart, many battles were fought between the 
 Irish and the Danes, with various success. Niall, finding himself sufficiently powerful to 
 invade the territories conquered by the Danes in Ulster, advanced against Armagh, the head- 
 quarters of his savage enemies. The Danes, confident of success, met him, and the adverse 
 host closed, spear to spear man to man ; the troops of Niall, thirsting for vengeance, 
 fought with a desperate valour which made them irresistable. The Danes were completely 
 overthrown, and in the universal route were slaughtered by the victorious Irish without 
 mercy. Those who survived the battle fled towards the river Callan, probably to get a 
 temporary refuge in the Navan Fort. The river was swollen from a torrent of rain which 
 had fallen and interrupted the march of the victorious army in their progress to Armagh. 
 
 At the foot of Tullamore hill, which the river divides from Umgola, Niall halted his troops. 
 At his command, one of his warriors endeavoured to pass the ford on horseback, but was 
 instantly hurried from his steed by the impetuosity of the waters. Niall, who, with strong 
 emotions, saw him struggling for life, commanded his guards to make every effort for his 
 preservation. In vain was the command obeyed, terror fixed them to the spot immovable. 
 The magnanimous king dashed forward with a generous resolution to save his friend or perish 
 in the attempt. As he approached the bank of the river, the ground, undermined by the 
 torrent, sank beneath his horses feet, the monarch was precipitated into the flood, where 
 death at once closed his career of victory and his life. His body was deposited in a grave 
 dug in Tullamore, on the bank of the river where he had so prematurely perished. A simple
 
 62 TOPOGRAPHICAL BESEABCHES. 
 
 mound of earth, which tradition has from generation to generation denominated " Niall's 
 Mound," lately marked the spot where the sovereign of Ireland lies in the silence of death. 
 
 Warner (History of Ireland) gives a pretty similar account of the occurrence. 
 
 "After the overthrow of the Danes, Niall came to the banks of the river Caillann with a 
 design to ford it, and finding it swelled to a great height with some heavy rains, he ordered 
 one of his retinue to try the depth of it before he ventured in with all his train : but the 
 stream being very rapid and washing him off his horse, and those whom the king had or- 
 dered to his succour not being willing to risque their lives, Niall himself resolved to haz- 
 zard his own person in order to save him. With that view he pushed his horse boldly to 
 the side of the stream where the man was drowning ; but the ground being undermined 
 with the washing of the water, it immediately gave way ; his horse and he were both tum- 
 bled into the river, and they shared the fate of the man whom the king had attempted to 
 save." Thus died Niall III., thirteen years in the Sovereignty of Ireland, in the fifty-fifth 
 year of his age. 
 
 This unfortunate Prince, had it appears some warning to avoid the river Callan, for it was 
 predicted some time before that he should be drowned in that stream, which was the sad 
 occasion of his name, and he was always mentioned afterwards by the name of Niall Caille. 
 In commemoration of his untimely death was written : 
 
 A curse on thee severe Callainne, thou stream like mist from a mountain, 
 
 Thou hast painted death ou every side, on the warlike brunette bright face of Niall 
 
 And again : 
 
 I love not the sorrowful water, which flows by the side of Maras, 
 O Caillainne who shall boast of it ? Thou hast drowned 
 The son of an illustrious woman. 
 
 With every regard for the tradition which points out the spot where Niall was drowned, 
 it is very difficult indeed to arrive at a safe conclusion, as the river is so very crooked that 
 its adverse banks are continually crumbling away with the impetuosity of the stream. The 
 great depth of the river and its impending banks at this place would, however, lead us to 
 give some credence to the story. Those who take an interest in our local topography will 
 at once observe that the bed of the river suddenly sinks here, and the banks so precipitous 
 with rocky sides, that it very probably maintained its original course. In fact, it is the only 
 likely spot for several miles where such a catastrophe could have occurred, at least from the 
 present appearance of the river. 
 
 There are three rivers named Callainn in Ireland ; one in the County of Armagh, the 
 other in the County Kilkenny, and the third in the valley of Glanarough, in the County of 
 Kerry. 
 
 It is not at all surprising that the late Dr. O' Donovan, who had never been in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Armagh, made several topographical errors regarding occurrences which took 
 place in this locality, and I have the misfortune to dispute a statement which is recorded 
 by him in a foot-note under the name "Caille," in the first volume of the Four Masters. 
 The assertion or interpretation is given, and by him alone, without any attempt at proof 
 or reasoning ; and I will merely copy the passage, and let the reader form his own conclu- 
 sion : " The Callainn in the County of Kilkenny is probably the one in which this king 
 was drowned." 
 
 Now, is it not strange that Dr. O' Donovan, in the earlier part of the very volume from 
 which the extract is taken, identifies this water as " the river Callan, in the County of Ar- 
 magh ? " and in the " Miscellany " of the Celtic Society, which he edited in 1849, he reiter- 
 ates the statement, that " Niall was drowned in the river Callan near Armagh, from which 
 he received the cognomen of Caille or Cailne ! !"
 
 THE ANCIENT SCHOOL, OK COLLEGE OF AE1TAGH. 63 
 
 The fact also of Malachy assembling the states at Armagh immediately on the death of Niall 
 is a strong proof that the seat of war was at Armagh and not Kilkenny. 
 
 The learned Charles O'Connor, in his " Dissertations on the History of Ireland," (p. 234), 
 affirms that the occurrence took place at Armagh. Seward (Topograpliia Hibernica). Kea- 
 ting and Stuart also join testimony to the same effect, whilst Ware and Lannigan are silent 
 on the matter. 
 
 It is, therefore, hard to say, how or by what authority the learned Dr. O'Donovan was 
 led to change his first ideas on this subject. The statement may have been unintentional 
 or a typographical error, but it is contrary to common sense and undoubted historical proofs 
 brought forward in favour of Armagh. There are very few interesting reminiscences, be- 
 yond what are termed Ecclesiasticalfconnected with this ancient city, and so its inhabi- 
 tants, are not yet prepared to part with the historical associations of Niall III., and the 
 river Callan, which takes its rise about six miles south of Armagh near the town of Keady 
 and flows westward in a northern direction. The river is supplied from three lakes the 
 largest of which is called "Clay," and augmented by various streams in its descent from 
 the mountains. Following the tortuous course of the stream until it joins the Blackwater 
 at Charlemont, which in a direct line is about nine miles it traverses probably more than 
 twelve, owing to the extraordinary windings of the river in some places. This, however, has 
 its advantages, for on its banks are constructed upwards of forty mills which keep thou- 
 sands of poor people in constant and remunerative employment. At a place called Ballana- 
 boy (Bellanatha buidhe) or Yellow Ford, Sir Henry Bagenal and the Queen's troops in 
 1598 crossed the river Callan when going to meet Hugh, Earl of Tyrone, who was then en- 
 compassing the Fort at Blackwater. 
 
 The word Callan in Irish, means loud talk, noise or calling ; and, perhaps, the name sig- 
 nifies the "Echoin River." 
 
 Chf. 
 
 OTJ. 
 !]|f 
 
 THE ANCIENT SCHOOL, OR COLLEGE OF ARMAGH. 
 
 N the course of his missionary labours, St. Patrick determined to adopt the most effectual 
 means for transmitting to posterity the doctrines which he had so sedulously taught. 
 ^"^ Under this impression he founded in Armagh. 
 
 A SCHOOL OE COLLEGE 
 
 which, in process of time, became famous throughout all Europe. The foundation of the 
 School at Armagh, is to be traced to a very remote period in the judgment of those who are 
 champions of Irish Antiquity, while this seems to be little more than conjecture in the esti- 
 mation of others ; but of its early existence there can be no question. Like every similar 
 School of learning in Europe even of more modern date, it was insignificant in its com- 
 mencement, but we find, even so late as the end of the 12th Century, though many chan- 
 ges have taken place, and a long night of darkness had intervened, that in the year 1169, 
 Roderick, the last of the native Monarchs of Ireland, an encourager of learning, augmented 
 the income of the Superior of Armagh College, stipulating that this studium generate should 
 be continued to be kept open for all students who should come to Armagh. While yet the 
 nations from whom the inhabitants of the greater portion of modern Europe are descended 
 were sunk in the lowest depths of ignorance and idolatry, and before the Saxons had re- 
 ceived an alphabet, there flourished at Armagh, a Seminary in which were taught the great 
 truths of Christianity. 
 
 Spencer writes that the Saxons originally received their alphabet from the Irish, and 
 consequently that they were unacquainted with every branch of literature until instructed 
 by the learned of Ireland. 
 
 Head of Erin is great Ardmach, 
 
 Not nobler is their high chieftains, 
 
 The men of the world have their knowledge there.
 
 G-i TOPOGRAPHICAL EESEAECHES. 
 
 The Annalist Friars of Donegal record that in the year 1387, Niall O'Neill, King of 
 Ulster, built a house at Emania (now Navan Fort, near Armagh) for the entertainment 
 of the learned men of Ireland. Emania was an "apt Parnassus" for the .Northern Bards, 
 whom the scene of the vicinity of Creeveroe, i.e. the Red Branch Knights, would inspire to 
 sing the glories of the time when Emania flourished as the site of a dynasty, and when 
 Cuchullin led the Red Branch Knights to danger. 
 
 Peter Walsh, quoting from the manuscript of Keating in the reign of Conch uuair Mhic Do- 
 nochoe, (p. 57) says, "there being 7,000 scholars at one time in one of these Universities, to 
 wit, Armagh, is a considerable evidence how learning had flourished at that time in Ireland. 
 To all which may be added that they were the Irish of those days, who gave a beginning 
 abroad, if not to the Schools of Oxford (for I have an author by me that says they did so 
 even to these) yet certainly to those of Paris and Pavia, and to many other great colleges 
 of learning in foreign parts, and the most famous monasteries of Europe." 
 
 O'Connor adds, " In the City of Ardmacha it is affirmed that no fewer than 7,000 
 scholars studied at the same time within its university ; although the kingdom at that 
 time contained several other Academies equally celebrated, if not equally numerous. 
 
 "The College of Armagh," writes Fitzgerald, vol. 1, p. 155, "ranked for many cen- 
 turies amongst the most celebrated seminaries in Europe, having at one time 7,000 
 students within its walls. Roderick O'Connor made a grant to its professors. Gildas, a 
 disciple of St. Patrick and the most ancient of the British historians, is said to have pre- 
 sided over it. The studies pursued in the Irish colleges were, theology, grammar, rhetoric, 
 logic, music, geometry, astronomy and architecture. In the "Popular Encyclopedia," 
 published at Glasgow, we find that, "in the middle ages Armagh was an extensive and 
 populous city, and celebrated for its learning, having at one time 7,000 students at its col- 
 lege." But in more modern times, or three or four centuries preceding the Reformation, 
 all the Irish colleges had passed into comparative insignificance, with the exception of that 
 of Armagh ; the high estimation in which that college was held, was attested by a synod of 
 twenty-six Bishops, which Primate Gelasius convened at Cbne (Diocese of Kildare), in 
 1162, when it was decreed, "that no person, for the time to come should be adopted as a 
 public reader in Divinity, unless he had been a student fostered or adopted by Armagh. 
 
 Charlemagne of France placed the University of Paris and that of Ticinum, i.e. Pavia 
 (the two first formed establishments of the kind on the Continent of Europe), under the 
 care of two Irishmen Albin and Clement, as best qualified to preside over such institu- 
 tions. Aigilbert, the first Bishop of the Western Saxons, and afterwards Bishop of Paris, 
 also Alfred, King of Northumberland, were educated in Ireland, most probably at Armagh. 
 
 O'Donovan, in the Dublin Penny Journal, vol. 1, gives a translation of a poem written 
 in the Irish language by Alfred, King of the Northumbrian Saxons, during his exile in Ire- 
 land, when he was known by the name of Flann Fion. 
 
 The Royal poet, says : 
 
 I found in Ardmach, the splendid, 
 Meekness, wisdom, circumspection. 
 Fasting in obedience to the Son of God, 
 Noble, prosperous sages ; 
 I found in each great church 
 Whether internal, on shore or island, 
 Learning, wisdom, devotion to God, 
 Holy welcome and protection. 
 
 The foundation of the school of Armagh, writes Christopher Anderson, in his " Histori- 
 cal sketches of the native Irish," is to be traced to a very remote period, in the judgment 
 of those who are partial to Irish antiquity ; whilst this seems to be little more than con- 
 jecture in the estimation of others ; but of its early existence there can be no question. In-
 
 THE COLLEGE OF ABMAQH. 65 
 
 significant in its commencement like every similar school of learning in Europe, even of 
 more modern date, still such men as have heen already glanced at, who came out of Ireland 
 in those early ages, there can be little doubt owed whatever learning they possessed 
 mainly to this seminary. Referring therefore to what has been already said of them, I 
 might add here that even so late as the end of the 12th century, though many changes 
 had taken place, we know as a matter of history that the last of the Irish kings augmented 
 the income of the school, on condition of its being open for all students, as well from any 
 part of Ireland as from Albanian Scotia. 
 
 Thus we see that Armagh was a chief seat of literature and religion, a " blazing star," 
 when most parts of the western world were involved in darkness and superstition. " In the 
 minds of the English it should excite sentiments of gratitude and affection for our country, 
 for it was to this seminary of education that England was in a great degree indebted for 
 the rudiments of learning which have ultimately exalted her to such a pitch of glory." 
 
 " Our Anglo-Saxons," writes Camden, " went in those times to Ireland as if to a fair to 
 purchase knowledge ; and we often find in our authors, that if a person were absent from 
 his own country, it was generally said of him, by way of proverb, that he was sent to Ire- 
 land to receive his education. It even appears that our ancestors, the ancient Anglo- 
 Saxons, had learned the use of characters in Ireland ; and from the Irish, our ancient Eng- 
 lish ancestors appear to have received their method of joining letters, and obviously made 
 use of the same characters which the Irish now employ." P. 730. 
 
 " Britain ! with shame confess this land of mine 
 First taught thee human knowledge and Divine 
 My prelates and my students sent from hence 
 Made your sons converts both to God and sense. 
 
 Bede, in his Church History, writes that there were in Ireland many nobles and gentry 
 from among the English, who, in the time of Finanus and Colmanus, having withdrawn 
 themselves thither, either for the sake of Divine study, or to learn more chaste lives : all of 
 them the Scots most freely admitted, and supplied them gratis with daily sustenance, with 
 books and masters." Macpherson says, "In the 5th, 6th and 7th centuries, religion 
 flourished in Ireland to such a degree that it was commonly styled the mother country of 
 saints, and reputdl ' the kingdom of arts and sciences.' " 
 
 List of Masters since the modern foundation under James I. on the Plantation of 
 Ulster : 
 
 Thomas Lydiat, 1609 ; John Starkey, Isaac Collier or Collyer, 1671 ; Thomas Wad- 
 man, 1681 ; Joseph Crump, 1688 ; Richard Martin, 1691 ; Charles Carthy, 1740 ; 
 Arthur Greuber, 1754 ; Thomas Carpendale, 1786 ; George Miller, 1817 ; W. H. Guille- 
 mard, 1848 ; W. M. Morgan, the present master, 1869. 
 
 The originarbuildings, which were completed in 1772, cost over 5,000, of which 3,000 
 were advanced by Primate Robinson, and the remainder by Dr. Greuber. The late Primate 
 in 1849 also advanced 3,000 for its enlargement, viz.: On the Dormitory, School- 
 room, and Private Apartments 1,360 9s. 6d. ; Play-room with Dormitory, over 1,701 6s. 
 5d. ; Ball Court, 67 4s. 9d. ; Entrance and Cloisters, 167 7s. 4d. ; Making altogether 
 3,296 8s. Od. 
 
 Mr. John Davidson, in his evidence before the Endowed School Commissioners in 1857, 
 (vol. i. p. 501), stated in reply to the question " Do you know where the old school-house 
 stood ?" " The late Mr. Evans of Derry, often told me he was at school in it, and it was 
 ituated on the left of where I live in Abbey-Street, opposite the Provincial Bank."
 
 66 TOPOGBAPHICA.L EESEAECHES. 
 
 THE CASTLE OF ARMAGH. 
 
 tHE history of this old structure is almost buried in obscurity. Dr. Reeves says that the 
 castle which gave name to Castle-Street was a building unknown to early times and 
 the Annalists, and therefore, never enters into their description. 
 
 Under the year 1074, Stuart in his Memoirs of Armagh, quoting from Colgan, 2d vol. p. 
 298, states " that on the Thursday after the Festival of St. Philip and St. James, Armagh 
 was wasted with fire. The castle (arx) and the churches, with the bells, were destroyed. 
 The city was again re-built ; but in the year 1091, the castle, from its middle part (what 
 does this mean?) towards the west, was materially injured with fire." 
 
 All Colgan's Notices of Armagh are translated by him from the Irish of the Four Mas- 
 ters, where the reader will find the original passages at the dates respectively which he as- 
 signs. 
 
 In translating the passage from Colgan, Stuart has evidently given a false interpretation 
 to the word arx, which, according to the best authorities, means a high place or "Rath." 
 Dr. Reeves says, " Wherever Colgan uses the word arx, he represents by it the Irish term 
 Rath, The summit of the hill now occupied by the cathedral yard and houses, on the same 
 level, was anciently called The Bath Arda Macha or Rath of Armagh and was exclusi- 
 vely devoted to churches and other religious buildings. It was Colgan's arx, having been 
 the enclosed or fortified precincts of Daire's premises, before they were granted by him to 
 St. Patrick. The outside belt of ground, all down the slopes to the low ground was sub- 
 divided into wards or districts, called the Trians (or literally thirds}, which was the Irish 
 term for what we express for quarter." 
 
 The original passages in the Four Masters run as follow, and from them it will be found 
 that the word arx taken with ex media parte (middle part), and cum suis ecclesiis (all its 
 churches) cannot mean a castle or building which was not larger than that erected about the 
 same time by King John at Carlingford and other places. 
 
 A.D. 1020 " Ardmach tota incendio vastata usque ad arcem majorem." A.D. 1074 
 " Ardmach tota cum omnibus ecclesiis et campanis cum arce et reliqua urbis parte incendio 
 vastata." A.D. 1092 "Arx ardmachana cum suis ecclesiis, &c., incendio vastantur," and 
 at 1112 " Arx Ardmach cum templis " i.e., the Rath (not castle) with all its churches, 
 &c. We have, moreover, no evidence to show that even so far back as the year 1020 the 
 state of the ancient city was such as to require the erection of a fortress likje the castle ; and 
 it is more than probable it owes its origin to the troublesome times in the North of Ireland, 
 subsequent to the invasion of Ireland in 1172 and the conquest of Ulster some years 
 after. In pursuing this idea we find that in 1179 John De Courcey the castellator of Ire- 
 land plundered Armagh and William Fitz Aldhelm carried off the staff of Jesus. Again, 
 in the year 1184 Philip of Worcester, then Governor of Ireland, proceeded on a circuit, with 
 a great miliary force, to visit the British garrisons stationed through the provinces. At the head 
 of this army he entered Armagh, which he handed over to the tender mercies of his merci- 
 less soldiers, who robbed the churches ; and amongst the plunder there appears to have 
 been a certain "large cauldron or brewing pan" which was taken from the clergy of the 
 city. 
 
 In 1210 King John landed with a great and well appointed army at Waterford. Shortly 
 after we find English colonies interspersed over the whole face of the country, and castles 
 erected through Ulster to protect their interests. Money was coined, and an attested copy 
 of the great English Charter was transmitted to this country. 
 
 We come now to the period at which we determine the erection of the Castle of Armagh. 
 The Marquis of Kildare, in his book of "The Earls of Kildare," published in 1864, states 
 from Lodge's Peerage, vol. 1, p. 60, that " Maurice Fitzgerald, second Baron of Offaly, in
 
 THE PBIJTATIAL RESIDENCE AT AEMAQH. 67 
 
 the year 1236, built the Castle of Armagh, of which there are no remains." Lodge, who 
 in general is considered a good authority, unfortunately gives no reference for this state- 
 ment ; but the disturbed condition of Society which at that time agitated the North of Ire- 
 land would naturally lead us to infer that he is tolerably correct. At the period to which 
 Dr. Lodge assigns the building of the Castle of Armagh, the English influence and power 
 had gained much ground in Ireland, for the King directed his writ to the Archbishop of Ar- 
 magh and the other prelates of Ireland, in which he decreed that his writs of com- 
 mon law should run into Ireland as well as England, and be equally efficacious in both 
 countries. 
 
 We may then place the origin of this castle, subject to correction, at the year 1236, from 
 which time its existence seems to have been almost entirely ignored in local history. Sir 
 Henry Sidney, in 1575, gives a woeful description of this fortress : " The towne is miser- 
 able ; the forte imperfecte, not worthe the chardge of the keepinge, if there be peaceable 
 proceedinge. The bridge and gate to garde it not half reared ; but I have taken order it 
 shall be finished, and very neccesarye it is to be kept if peaceable proceeding be en- 
 tended." 
 
 In the year 1596, we find that Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone, suddenly marched to Ar- 
 magh ; cut off the fortress from communication with the other garrisons, and succeeded in 
 forcing it to surrender before Sir John Norris could arrive to its relief. At the beginning of the 
 present century, part of the premises were tenanted by the Rev. Dr. Burns, and at a later 
 period by Robert O'Neill a sheriff's officer. It was subsequently permitted to go to ruins, 
 and the late John Ross occupied the premises by building on its site several dwelling-houses 
 adjoining a lane called after the owner. The property has since fallen into the hands of 
 William B. Kaye, Esq., who has taken care to preserve a piece of grouted mason work 
 the only remnant of this ancient fortress to be seen at the present day. 
 
 Something additional might have been furnished to render this article more interesting 
 and attractive to the ordinary reader, yet, I hope sufficient has been given to induce some 
 of our young men to add a page to so valuable a study. In this ancient city and immediate 
 neighbourhood, there yet remains a large field for cultivation in the Archaelogical world, 
 and I trust the attention of some members of the Philosophical Society will interest them- 
 selves by taking up the subject. 
 
 THE PRIMATIAL RESIDENCE AT ARMAGH. 
 
 MID the universal levelling of society, spoliation of Church property thrones totter- 
 ing and nations falling, it may not be uninteresting to put on record the site of the 
 Episcopal house or residence of the Bishops, from St. Patrick up to the present 
 time. It is a subject peculiarly attractive to the Armagh Archaeologist. 
 
 In the History of the ancient Churches of Armagh, Dr. Reeves states that the Abbott 
 or successor of St. Patrick " had a separate abode inside the Rath, anciently enclosed within 
 a rampart of its own. The first mention of it is in the Annals of Ulster, at 822. At the 
 commencement of the 17th century," continues the Doctor, "there was a place and build- 
 ing at the north end of the Vicar's Hill, called the Archbishop's Court, which may havt 
 been a relic of the old residence. The Dean's holding may also have been a portion of the 
 Episcopal premises, because in early times there was no Dean, and it is likely that when 
 that dignity was instituted, the Court of St. Patrick retired from the Abbatial to his Epis- 
 copal functions, delegating the former to his new capitular president, and with it the hold- 
 ings belonging to the office. At such a time it probably was that the Primate's Armagh 
 residence was transferred to Bishop's Court, in Mullinure, lying N.N.E of the city. The 
 favourite residence, however, of the Primates was at Dromiskin and Termonfeckin, and
 
 68 TOPOGRAPHICAL RESEARCHES. 
 
 when the Primates did visit Armagh they took up their abode in one of the religious houses 
 adjacent to the Cathedral. Thus, in 1460, Primate Bole occupied his chambers in the old 
 Culdee Priory, between Castle-Street and the church-yard wall." 
 
 It is difficult to discover by whom the more modern Episcopal house of Armagh was 
 built; most probably in 1562, by Adam Loffcus the second Protestant Primate; Hugh 
 Goodacre having died within three months of his consecration. It is but little wonder that 
 Adam Loftus did not reside at Armagh, when Shane O'Neill burned his residence. He re- 
 sided generally at Termonfeckin, which was the "cheffe dwelling place" of the Archbishops 
 of Armagh in those days. At this time the North of Ireland was rained by the rebellion of 
 Shane O'Neill, and Armagh was reduced to a "parcel of wattled cottages the ruinous walls 
 of a monastery and the Primate's Palace." In 1568, March 28th, "secret instructions were 
 sent from Queen Elizabeth to the Lords Justices of Ireland, desiring them to hasten the build- 
 ing of the Cathedral and the Archbishop's house at Ardmagh, in order that the latter might 
 serve as a lodging for the Viceroy, and also for the Councillors, who were about to be ap- 
 pointed as a Provincial Council for governing the North." 
 
 When Christopher Hampton succeeded to the Primacy in 1613, he built a handsome 
 palace at Drogheda, where the Archbishops of Armagh had their Episcopal residence for 
 three months in the year ; but since the time of Primate Ussher they resided more frequently 
 at Armagh. 
 
 Of this building we have an account in the Ulster Visitation Book, A.D. 1622, as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 " Item, in Drogheda a fayre house new built by the now Lo : Primate, wch cost his Lo:p 
 alreadie 2064 Ibs. 2s. 4d., and more buildings his Lo:p intends to add unto the same 
 house to which house there is a large garden walled with stone, at the charge of the now 
 Archbp." 
 
 In Stafford's " State Letters," vol. ii. p. 262, the Archbishop of Canterbury writes to 
 the Lord Deputy, A.D. 1638, " I am glad yr Lordship hath been at Drogheda, & that there 
 you found one of the best houses in Ireland. It seems Primate Hampton did that good to 
 the sea." In addition to repairing the Armagh Cathedral, which had been destroyed by 
 Shane O'Neill this prelate, according to the Ulster Visitation Book, under 1622, also re- 
 built an old house at the west end of the Cathedral. The passage runs thus: "Imprimis, 
 Christopher, now Archbishop, hath an old house at the west end of the cathedral church, 
 whereunto his Lo:p hath added a new building, which did stand him in 160 lb., & more his 
 Lo:p intends to bestow in building, if God spare him life. Item, 300 acres of land, by the 
 now Archbp. for demeans, to the house above mentioned, which is set yearly for 30 lb." 
 This is evidently the building alluded to by Dr. Keeves, situate at the north end of the 
 Vicar's Hill near the present library. 
 
 Primate Margetson, in the year 1670, "at his own peculiar cost," greatly adorned and 
 repaired the Episcopal palace. 
 
 Primate Marsh rebuilt and repaired a dwelling-house for himself and his successors in 
 1704. 
 
 In Primate Lindsey's will, executed 25th Oct., 1722, he left 300 to his next successor, 
 to aid in the purchase of a convenient house, for the residence of the future primates. In 
 this devise there was a condition that he should not renew a lease to T. Dawson, Esq., of a 
 house in Armagh, then in his possession, which his Grace was desirous should revert to 
 the see, as a dwelling-house for the Archbishop. Dr. Lindsey alleged that Dawson had re- 
 ceived a full compensation for this house, which had been partly rebuilt and partly repaired, 
 at the expense of Primate Marsh, for the use of himself and his successors, but Dawson had 
 refused to transfer it, as no deed of surrender had been executed.
 
 THE PSIMATIAL RESIDENCE AT ARMAGH. 69 
 
 About this time the Archbishops changed their place of abode from the west of the Cath- 
 edral to a large house in English-Street, and held as such during the lives of the three suc- 
 ceeding prelates Boulter, Hoadly, and Stone. Some of the walls were standing about 
 forty years ago, and the office houses were used as stores by Mr. Hugh Kidd, who had a 
 brewery close by. By referring to Livingston's map, surveyed for his Grace, Richard, Lord 
 Primate of Ireland, in 1767, it will be observed that the site of the Primate's residence mea- 
 sured 139 feet, with the observation, "A very good house and offices." The edifice, how- 
 ever, was not such as to recommend itself as the future residence of Primate Robinson, so 
 the premises were given up in the first instance to Mr. Macan, and subsequently divided 
 into separate houses, at present in the possession of Messrs. J. S. Riggs and H. Hazelton. 
 The frontage extended southwards as far as the corner of Russell-Street. 
 
 Robinson's intention was to have built a mansion on Tullyard Hill, but Dr. Averell, pro- 
 prietor of the soil, would not transfer his title to the lands, and thus the Primate was 
 obliged to change his original design. 
 
 The condition of this part of the city in 1740 may be imagined from certain orders made 
 by the Town Commissioners at that time. "We present the sum of one shilling and one 
 penny, to be levied and paid to Geo. Bell, to be by him laid out in cleaning the watercourse 
 and throwing backe ye dunge on ye road between the Lord Primate's house and the west te- 
 nement adjoyning ye malt kiln, in order to keep ye same clean for ye future." " We pre- 
 sent any person who shall be convicted at any time hereafter of throwing ashes or dung in ye 
 said watercourse in ye sum of 6s. and 8d." And on the 20th January, 1743, " We present 
 the sum of 7s., to be levied off ye inhabitants of this Corporation and ye lands thereunto be- 
 longing, and paid into ye hands of E. Harcourt, Esq., to be by him paid to Mr. M'Cartin, 
 stonecutter, and the workmen that repaired the conduit across the street, between my Lord 
 Primate's and Dr. Jenny's house." 1747 " 2 12s. 7d., to be expended in repairing the 
 street before the Lord Primate's house." 
 
 When Dr. Robinson was removed from the see of Kildare to the Primacy, he built, in 
 1770, on the mensal lands, separated by Archbishop Hampton, a handsome residence mea- 
 suring 90 feet by 60, for himself and his successors. 
 
 During the building of the Palace in the Demesne, Primate Robinson resided at Richhill. 
 
 When Primate Stuart came to this diocese the outlines of the demesne were properly de- 
 fined, and he enclosed the mensal lands with a boundary wall, at a cost of 20,000, to be 
 levied off" his successors in due proportions. 
 
 On his accession to the primacy, the late Primate, Lord J. G. Beresford, expended an im- 
 mense sum in building office houses and adding another story to the palace, which gives it a 
 noble and graceful appearance. 
 
 Some of the apartments are adorned with valuable paintings, which were bequeathed by 
 the founder to his successors, viz: King Charles I., King William III., and Queen Mary, 
 Queen Anne, Prince George of Denmark, King George I., George II., Frederick Prince of 
 Wales, George III., Queen Charlotte, Elector of Hanover, Duke of Zell, together with seve- 
 ral of the primates fifteen in number reaching down to the time of the present primate, 
 from that of Henry Ussher, who was raised to the primacy in the year 1595, towards the 
 hitter end of the reign of Elizabeth. These complete the series of Protestant Archbishops 
 of Armagh during that period. 
 
 The late Dr. Ellington, in his " Life of Archbishop Ussher " gives an account of the re- 
 -i'l'Mice of the Archbishops of Armagh : 
 
 " The Archbishop of Armagh had a residence in Palace-Street, Drogheda, and another 
 at Termonfeckin, within a few miles from which Archbishop Ussher's letters were written. 
 The house at Termonfeckin was destroyed in the rebellion of 1641, and never afterwards 
 repaired. Archbishop Bramhall had collected materials for repairing the house and en-
 
 70 TOPOGRAPHICAL BESEABCHES. 
 
 closing the Park, but his death interrupted the work. He left by his will the materials to 
 his successor, but the work was not completed. A small part of the wall was standing a 
 few years ago, but it is now entirely destroyed. It is a very general mistake that the 
 castle which still remains was the residence of Archbishop Ussher. It is so stated by Wright 
 in his "Louthiana" by Grosse, and by every successive writer. The Archiepiscopal residence 
 stood close to the river on the west side. The castle is on the east side of the river, and is 
 the property of the Rev. W. Brabazon, whose estate is separated by the river from that of 
 the Archbishop of Armagh. The palace in Drogheda was repaired after the Restoration 
 by Primate Bramhall, and subsequently enlarged by Primate Margetson, and continued the 
 residence of the Primate until the appointment of Archbishop Boulter. The prominent 
 part which that prelate took in the government of the country made it more convenient for 
 him to reside in or near Dublin, and in this practice most injurious to the Church he was 
 followed by his successors, Hoadely and Stone. During this period the palace at Dro- 
 gheda was suffered to go to ruin, and there is now considerable difficulty in tracing its former 
 site. 
 
 Archbishop Hampton seemed to have been the first prelate who made any arrangements 
 for fixing the Episcopal residence at Armagh, and he separated 300 acres for mensal lands. 
 Nothing further was done until Primate Marsh rebuilt a house in Armagh as a residence for 
 himself and his successors. From some mistake a lessee of the Archbishop got possession 
 of the house, and Primate Lindsay could not recover it, but left 300 to assist in procuring 
 a residence, on condition of the lease not being renewed to the tenant, Mr. Dawson. The 
 house was recovered, but remained in a very unfit state for the Primate's residence. When 
 Dr. Robinson came to Armagh he built a handsome palace in the lands separated by Hamp- 
 ton. It is greatly to be regretted that the liberality and munificence of Primate Robinson 
 was not guided by good taste or by any respect for the ancient remains of the country to 
 which he had been removed. When Bishop of Ferns he had part of the venerable old ca- 
 thedral pulled down, in order to build the walls of the churchyard, and he surrounded the 
 ruins of the ancient abbey at Armagh with the farm offices, The late Primate, Lord J. G. 
 Beresford, expended large sums of money in endeavouring to remove the original defects, 
 but many of them are incurable. The farm yard is removed, and the Abbey is now en- 
 closed, so as not to offend the good taste or good feeling of the visiter. The Abbey, how- 
 ever, is a very rude structure, without any pretensions to architectural beauty." 
 
 THE CITY OF ARMAGH ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO. 
 
 ICHARD ROBINSON, D.D., Bishop of Kildare, succeeded to the Primacy by patent, 
 dated 8th February, 1765. He is acknowledged to have been one of the most vigilant 
 prelates, and most munificent benefactors of the Church of Ireland. He built the palace 
 of Armagh, and houses for the Vicars' Choral, erected a public school, an infirmary, a noble 
 public library, an observatory ; and also built several churches in the neighbourhood of Armagh, 
 Dregheda, &c. In 1777, he was created Baron Rokeby ; and on the death of his elder 
 brother became a Baronet. He died at Clifton near Bristol on 10th October, 1794. His 
 body was brought to Ireland, and was interred in his Cathedral at Armagh, where a marble 
 bust, the chefd'ouevre of Nollekins,* has been erected to his memory with the following 
 inscription beneath, on a mural tablet : 
 
 * Nollekins long enjoyed the reputation of an admirable statuary. He was son of Joseph F. Nolle- 
 kins, an artist of Antwerp, who, when young, settled in England. Cunningham in his " Lives of the 
 Sculptors," says that although Nollekins was wholly ignorant of grammar and spelling, he was good 
 in statues, but excellent in busts. At his death he left no less than 200,000.
 
 THE CITY OF ABMAGH ONE HUNDRED YEABS AGO. 71 
 
 Juxta situs est 
 
 Bicardus Robinson, Baro de Rokeby 
 hujusque Ecclesise per triginta fere annos 
 
 Archiepiscopus 
 
 Quo in munere obeundo 
 
 ingenii liberi et perspicacis 
 
 egregium prestitit exemplar 
 
 Avunculo suo et Patrono 
 
 Johannes Robinson 
 
 ejusdem EcclesiaB baud ita pridem Archdiaconus 
 L(ugens) M(onumentura) P(osuit) 
 
 obiit octobris die decimo, 1794 
 
 Bacon, sculptor. Annum agens octages sextum. London, 1802. 
 
 A marble bust of him is also placed in the Library of Christ Church, Oxford, to which 
 College he had been a most generous benefactor, and a portrait of him is preserved in the 
 Hall. 
 
 To the munificence of nearly all the Archbishops since the Reformation, Armagh owes 
 very much, but her great benefactor and restorer was Richard Robinson. Immediately 
 after his promotion he repaired the Cathedral, and presented to the Vicars' Choral a fine*- 
 toned organ,* incased in black oak, exquisitely carved, bearing the arms of the donor. 
 The unhappy fate which this venerable instrument met deserves to be recorded. Whilst 
 the Cathedral was undergoing repair, the organ was taken in pieces in the year 1834, and 
 carefully placed in apartments over the stables in the Primate's demesne, where it could re- 
 ceive neither damp nor injury. Previous to the re-opening of the Cathedral in 1840, Lord 
 J. G. Beresford, late Primate, presented (at the expense of the Vicars' Choral) to the 
 Dean and Chapter for the use of the Cathedral a new organ, built by the celebrated Wal- 
 ker, of London, containing all the improvements of the day. This splendid gift enabled 
 the Primate, in 1841, to have the old instrument put up in the concert room of the Ton- 
 tine for the use of the members and friends of the "Armagh Musical Society," of which 
 his Grace was patron. On the dissolution of this Society some time after, this instrument 
 the gift of Primate Robinson to the Dean and Chapter of Armagh was sold to the Wes- 
 leyan Methodists of Belfast, where, by a strange fatality on the evening of its first perform- 
 ance, it was consumed by fire ; sic itur ad astra. 
 
 According to an unpublished census of the city of Armagh, to which is annexed the re- 
 ligion and occupation of each individual, carefully made out for Primate Robinson in 1770, 
 there were Church families, 162 ; Presbyterians, 131 ; Roman Catholics, 209. Total, 502. 
 Population in Market-Street, 174; English-Street, 75; Little Meeting-Street, G8; Big 
 Meeting-Street, 108; Street leading to Common (Mall), 40; Abbey-Street, 141; Scotch- 
 Street, 267 ; Church Lane, 53 ; Pound Hill (Vicars' Hill), 33 ; Callan-Street, 207 ; Castle- 
 Street, 135 ; Mass Lane, 23 ; Irish-Street, 265 ; New-Street, 122 ; Charter School Lane, 
 108; Abbey Lane, 16; Lane off Irish-Street, 50. Total number, 1885. 
 
 It may not be out of place here to put on record the names of a few of the city officials, 
 with their residence : 
 
 Market-Street, Thomas Jobnstone, Gaoler ; J. Richardson, Hearth Money Supervisor ; 
 T. Johnstone, Mathematician to Free School; Mr. Holland, ditto; T. Johnstone, Deputy 
 Post Master ; English-Street, Dr. Greuber, Master of Royal School ; R. Crump, Usher to 
 same ; R. Sutton, Town Sergeant ; Wm. Johnstone, Apparitor ; Abbey-Street, E. Hand, 
 
 * " A Sensuous wedge !" See report of proceedings of the General Assembly : (Rev. J, B. Rentoul). 
 8th June, 1872.
 
 72 TOPOGBAPHICAL RESEABCHES. 
 
 Licensed School Master; Widow Barnes, Sextoness; Rev. W. Lodge, Rev. R. English. 
 Josias Boucher, Vicar Choral ; A. Shannon, breeches maker. 
 
 Pound Hill: J. Mosson, Proctor; R. Barnes, Organist; Thomas Crolly, Pound keeper; 
 J. Rooks, old Dancing Master; Irish-Street, D. Brennan, Pump-maker ; Scotch-Street, A. 
 Burleigh, Weigh-Master ; J. M'Cullagh, D. Registrar; New-Street, E. Justice, Verger ; 
 Tom Moorehead, Dancing Master ; Charter School Lane, A. Ball, School Master ; Lane off 
 Irish-Street, R. Davison, grave-digger. 
 
 The houses in Armagh about the year 1765, with very few exceptions, were cottages 
 thatched with rushes and straw, and were not contiguous. The citizens were obliged to 
 go to the neighbouring village of Richhill to purchase groceries and decent clothing ; and 
 it is said that letters were transmitted through that village for the people of Armagh. 
 
 About the year 1772, the churches of Lisnadill, Grange, Camlough, and Newtownhamilton 
 were built by Primate Robinson on lofty hills, commanding beautiful views of the countrv ; 
 thus reminding us of the song of the Psalmist, " Her foundations are upon the holy hills." 
 
 Nineteen years before Primate Robinson's arrival, the city of Armagh is thus described 
 in Salmon's Gazeteer, "once a considerable city, now reduced to a small village." 
 
 Mr. John Davidson, M.R.I.A., in his "Notices, Historical and Typographical," informs 
 us that Primate Robinson appropriated a certain sum which was further augmented by sub- 
 scriptions from the Dean and Chapter to the repairs of the Cathedral. In 1766 he slated 
 the Nave, and fitted it up for the celebration of Divine Service. In 1782, writes the same 
 gentleman, Primate Robinson had determined to build a tower to the Cathedral of Armagh 
 similar to that of Magdalen College, Oxford ; but when the tower, which was to have been 
 elevated 101 feet in height, had been raised 60 feet above the roof of the Church, symp- 
 toms of giving way, by an over pressure appeared in the lower portion. 
 
 Precautions were instantly taken, and after due deliberation the Primate was induced by 
 the fears of some old ladies, whose alarms prevented them from continuing to attend 
 Divine Service to order the new tower to be pulled down even to the roof of the building, 
 from whence it sprang. 
 
 In 1784, this munificent prelate gave directions to have the tower rebuilt as nearly as 
 possible like the original, with the exception of having two windows instead of one, on each 
 side of the tower. The four arches which support the tower were at the same time almost 
 built up and reduced so much that they measured probably not more than twelve feet high, 
 by eight feet wide. The space under the tower, around which was a gallery, formed the 
 entrances to the East (Parish Church) and West ends of the Cathedral, as well as to the 
 Bishop's Court in the South transept. A winding stairs on the South- West side led to the 
 organ loft and gallery for the Choir. 
 
 The death of this Primate prevented him carrying into execution the erection of a grand 
 tower at the West end of the church. The inhabitants of Armagh have not done justice 
 to the memory of their great benefactor. He found their city a nest of mud and wattle 
 cottages, and he left it adorned with public buildings of great architectural beauty. He 
 distributed upwards of 40,000 in these and other noble works without the remotest idea 
 to the present or future interest of himself or family, and has left unfading monuments of 
 virtue, benevolence, and patriotism. Under his will, dated 7th April, 1795, a sum of 
 1,000, late Irish currency, was bequeathed to the trustees of First Fruits, to be applied 
 upon certain trusts for the building of glebes in the Diocese of Armagh ; 1,000 to assist 
 in building a Chapel of Ease, with an acre of ground for its site, between the barracks and 
 the Royal School; 1,000 to the County Infirmary; to the Corporation of Armagh, 
 200, in trust, that they may advance a sum of money on a proper security to any trades- 
 man or artificer that will engage to settle in the city of Armagh on the expiration of their 
 apprenticeships ; 200 to the charitable loan of Armagh, and 200 to the Dean for the poor
 
 THE CITY OP ARMAGH ONE HUNDRED TEARS AGO. 73 
 
 of the parish. "I give and bequeath," said he "to the governors and guardians of the 
 Armagh Library 5,000 in trust, to be disposed of by them at their discretion for the use 
 of another University which may be hereafter established in Ulster, provided that the in- 
 corporation of such an University shall be completed in five years after my decease," and 
 lastly, " I desire my remains to be deposited in the Cathedral Church of Armagh, as that 
 city has been the principal place of my residence since my advancement to the primacy ; 
 and the inhabitants have been witnesses to the regular exertions of my mind for a succes- 
 sion of years in promoting a variety of public works for the future benefit and improvement 
 of that ancient city, in which the Christian religion was first preached in Ireland." 
 
 With regard to the erection of an " University " there appears a correspondence between 
 the Rev. J. A. Hamilton and Lord Cornwallis, in the " Memoirs and correspondence of 
 Viscount Castlereagh : " 
 
 "Armagh, 24 Aug., 1798. 
 " MAT IT PLEASE TOUR EXCELLENCT, 
 
 Impressed, as I am, with a full confidence of your Ex- 
 cellency's abilities, talents and public spirit, I feel an apology necessary for approaching 
 you on a subject of business intimately connected with your supposed beneficent intentions 
 with regard to this kingdom, and the duties of your high station. As one of the executors 
 of that truly wise man and enlightened Prelate the late Primate Robinson I humbly re- 
 quest to inform you that that great character thought nothing would tend so much to con- 
 ciliate and soften down the minds of our various sectaries in the North of Ireland, and 
 bind them to the common interests of the empire, as the " foundation of a second Univer- 
 sity in the province of Ulster." His own munificent labours at Armagh have pointed out 
 that place for the seat of this university, inasmuch as a college or seminary of education 
 already flourishes under an eminent gentleman at Armagh. We have a great endowed pub- 
 lic Library, and also a well endowed Observatory, and Museum for astronomy and natural 
 philosophy, at which I have the honour to preside. There is also bequeathed, 1,000 for 
 a Chapel which would answer for the college, and 5,000 to erect the buildings. 
 
 In the present anxious state of the public mind and your Excellency's more urgent and 
 important cares, I would not think of pressing this business forward to your notice, but that 
 I believe those statesmen who should more properly approach you on these subjects are too 
 much engaged with the weighty affairs of the day to be at leisure for the concerns of 
 quieter times ; and I am to tell you that if the body of the University is not incorporated 
 within a little more than one year, the legacy of 5,000 will lapse. I therefore only throw 
 out these hints to your Excellency ready at any time, should you at any time require it to 
 give full information of all local circumstances that might lead to the completion of this 
 great National object. 
 
 With all possible consideration and respect, &c., I am, <&c., 
 
 "JAMES HAMILTON."* 
 
 The terms of the will, " provided it be done within five years after decease " not being 
 complied with, the money was appropriated by Archdeacon Friend. 
 
 A " bust " in the Cathedral, erected by his nephew perpetuates the memory of Richard 
 Robinson, the restorer of Armagh. If we except the case of Sir Hans Sloane, the founder 
 of the British Museum, there can scarcely be found a parallel to equal this ingratitude of 
 the people of Armagh. 
 
 Non illo melior quisquam, nee amantior aequi vir fuit 
 A better man or one more just 
 There never was, in any trust. 
 
 * The Very Rev. James Hamilton, D.D., afterwards Dean of Cloyne, was appointed the first Princi- 
 pal Astronomer of the Armagh Observatory by the Founder.
 
 74 TOPOGRAPHICAL RESEARCHES. 
 
 Sir Hans Sloane, an Irishman, freely bequeathed to the nation 200 volumes of plants, 
 30,000 minerals and other specimens of great value in natural history, with his library of 
 50,000 carefully selected volumes, and 3,566 rare manuscripts, besides his 30 years income 
 to English charities. And yet in that Museum, founded by his sagacity and enriched by 
 his labours, there stands no marble statue of the noble man ! A picture or two are his 
 only memorials. Sic transit gloria mundi. 
 
 We are unfortunately deprived of the only means of ascertaining anything of the internal 
 arrangements and government of Armagh previous to the year 1731, as all authentic docu- 
 ments and records were either lost or destroyed during the great wars of 1598 and 1641 
 and the revolution of 1688, when the soldiers of James II. and adherents of William III. in 
 turn had possession of the city. We are, however, much indebted to the late Leonard 
 Dobbin, Esq., for presenting to the public library the original book of proceedings of the 
 " Sovereign and Grand Jury " of Armagh, from January 19, 1731 to 1823. This old record 
 not only preserves the names of the principal inhabitants and trades-people, but also gives us 
 the gradual changes and improvements that were introduced during that period. The large 
 sums of money expended from year to year in repairing and sinking pumps, cleansing and 
 sinking wells, nagging, paving, making sewers, channels, and putting up lamp-posts, would 
 lead us to the inevitable conclusion that the worthy citizens then, for the first time, experi- 
 enced the luxury of having clean streets and flagged pathways. We shall give one extract 
 from the book in reference to that useful and domestic animal, " Swine," as we must feel 
 indebted to the determination of our predecessors in having driven back to their settlements 
 this unfortunate race, who it appears had hitherto waged war against well paved streets in 
 this ancient city. 
 
 "April 20, 1724, whereas a former presentment made in the corporation, the Grand Jury 
 presented any person in 6s. 8d , that kept swine out of a stye, so as to injure their neigh- 
 bours ; and whereas several persons suffer their swine to run through the streets and even 
 to damnify their neighbours gardens ; we therefore present 13s. 4d. to be levied eff each per- 
 son keeping swine or pigs 'out of a stye from this day forward." 
 
 To see now-a-days, a fat porous rolling and enjoying himself in our fashionable thorough- 
 fares and squares would, indeed, be a rara avis, and afford rare sport for the arabs of our 
 city. 
 
 THE MOYRE PASS. 
 
 'HIS is the name of an old road extending across the townland of Carrickbroad, parish 
 of Killeavy, Barony of (Drier, and County of Armagh, about 300 paces from the bound- 
 ary of the Counties of Louth and Armagh. In the time of Queen Elizabeth, we read 
 that, from the Moyre Pass, as the entry to that valley is called, which lies under Slieve Gullion, 
 and through which the line of railway, after leaving Dundalk, enters the Fews, Hugh O'Neill, 
 Earl of Tyrone, retreated to the Black water, near Armagh. The ruins of a small castle are 
 still to be seen here on the North of the pass. 
 
 Fynes Moryson (the traveller, and Lord Deputy Mountjoy's secretary), who gives a 
 minute account of the expidition of Mountjoy into Ulster, calls this place Ballinemoyre, 
 and describes it as between Dundalk and Newry. 
 
 On an old map of Ulster, preserved in the State Papers' Office, London, the fortifications 
 erected by Lord Mountjoy (on this occasion) are marked under the name of " The Castle and 
 Fort of the Moierie Pace," and part of the road "the causie of Moierie." The castle was 
 standing in good preservation in 1834 when Dr. O'Donovan examined this locality with 
 great care. The road is now called Bother a MkaigTire, and is still traceable at Jones- 
 borough, near the boundary between the Counties of Louth and Armagh. A little to the 
 South of the railway may be seen the castle built by Lord Mountjoy in 1601 to secure the pass.
 
 THE FIGHT AT THE MOYRE, ANNO 1600. 75 
 
 Cox, in his history of Ireland, vol. 1, p. 407, states that the Deputy (leaving a garrison 
 at Armagh), on the 3rd July, 1594, marched nine miles towards the Newry ; hut being sup- 
 plied with victuals, he returned to Armagh on 5th, and marched to Monaghan on 7th, and 
 afterwards to the Pace of the Moyre, and so to Dundalk and Dublin. 
 
 The first record of Ballinamoyree made in Fynes Moryson's Itinerary is under Anno 
 1599, lib. 1, p. 34, where he writes " And to the same end Tyrone had made strong fast- 
 nesses or intrenchments, as well upon the passages of Lough Foyle, and Ballyshannon 
 (where he left forces to resist the English garrisons to be sent thither) as at the Blackwater 
 and Ballinamoyree, between Dundalk and the Newry, where he hoped to make some of the 
 best to drop, and after to fall back at his pleasure to like fights of advantage, which he had 
 prepared at the Blackwater." 
 
 THE FIGHT AT THE MOYRE (BEALACH NA MHAIGHKE), ANNO 1600. 
 
 On the 5th May, writes Moryson, the Lord Deputy drew into the North parts, to make 
 Tyrone look towards him, and so to give better facility to our men to settle themselves in 
 garrison at Lough Foyle. But before his departure from Dublin, for the better governing 
 and defending the Pale, his lordship did bj r commission leave Sir H. Poore to command in 
 all martial affairs. And staying some few days at Tredagh, for the companies which had 
 victualled Philipstown, and for the garrisons of Kells and Ardee, as also for victuals, he 
 marched to Dundalk, whence, taking that garrison also with him, he passed the Pace of the 
 Moyre on Whit Sunday morning, and so came to the Newry, where he understood that, ac- 
 cording to his opinion, Tyrone, turning his forces from Lough Foyle, was come in great 
 haste to Dungannon, had razed the old Fort of Blackwater, burned Armagh, and had drawn 
 his men into the strong fastness of Loughlurken (now Loughlurgan) where with great Industrie 
 the rebels had made trenches and fortified the place some three miles in length. His lordship to 
 the former end advancing towards him, on the 16th May, drew out of the Newry, and encamped 
 in the way towards Armagh with 1,500 foot, and some 200 horse. And there having notice that 
 the rebels enquired after the time when the Earl of Southampton, Sir Oliver Lambert, and 
 Sergeant-Major were to come to the army, and withall hearing that the said Earl and Ser- 
 jeant-Major were that day arrived at Dundalk, his lordship, early in the morning of the 17th 
 May, sent Capt. Edward Blayney with 500 foot and 50 horse to secure their passage through 
 the Pace of the Moyre, who marched from the camp, and so through the Moyre to the Fag- 
 hard, from which hill to Dundalk there was no danger. There he made a stand, and, leav- 
 ing his foot in two squadrons of 250 each, himself with the horse passed to Dundalk, and 
 told the earl of the forces the Lord Deputy had sent to conduct him, assuring him further 
 that his lordship, with the rest of the army, would meet him by two of the clock in the after- 
 noon, at the causey beyond the pace, from which the whole pace hath the name of the Moyre. 
 Hereupon the Earl, having with him, besides this convoy, the foot companies of Sir Oliver 
 Lambert and Sir Henry Follyot, and some 50 horses of voluntary gentlemen, marched to 
 the Faghart, where he commanded one of the two squadrons above mentioned to march on, 
 and after that the carriages ; then his lordship with the horse followed, after whom the se- 
 cond squadron marched, and, last of all, the two foot companies of Sir Oliver Lambert and 
 Sir Henry Follyot. Captain Blayney, commanding the vanguard, advanced to the Four- 
 milewater, being a ford all environed with woods, in the middest of this dangerous pace 
 called the Moyre. And, coming within half-a-mile of the same, they discovered the rebels 
 on both sides in the wood, whereupon the Earl directed the vanguard to pass over the water 
 and to make good the rising of the hill beyond it. When these became within a musket shot 
 they perceived 200 foot of the enemy lodged beyond the water in the most advantageous 
 places. Then Captain Blayney divided his men into three maniples, sending sixty on the
 
 76 TOPOGBAPIIICAL BESEABCHES. 
 
 right hand under Captain H. Atherton, and as many on the lift hand under Captain Wil- 
 liams, his lieutenant, and keeping the rest in the midst with himself. And so by the Ser- 
 jeant-Major's directions they gave the charge. In the meantime, the Lord Deputy being on 
 the hill beyond the pace, had sent his vanguard, consisting of two regiments, the one 
 under Sir Charles Percy, and the other under Sir Richard Moryson (two colonels of the 
 army), to advance towards the pace. And at this instant, when Captain Blayney gave on 
 upon the rebels, the said Lord Deputy's vanguard appeared on the left side, within two 
 musket shot. After some volleys on either side, the rebels on the right hand and those 
 right before Captain Blayney quitted those places, and retired through the woods to the Earl 
 of Southampton's rear, so as Captain Blayney, passing the water, made a stand there as he 
 was appointed to do, till the carriage and horses should be passed. And now the Lord De- 
 puty's vanguard, being come to the passage of the said water, maintained a resolute skir- 
 mish with the rebels on the left hand, and altogether secured the Earl's troops on that side. 
 The rebels, thus beaten on both sides, left some 100 shots to skirmish with the Lord De- 
 puty's vanguard, and all retired to the Earl of Southampton's rere, and came desperately 
 on our men both with horse and foot. But Sir Henry Follyot made a very good stand ; 
 and Sir Oliver Lambert, fearing lest our men should be distressed, the more to encourage 
 them, took his colours in his own hand, and together with some thirty of the Earl of South- 
 ampton's vanguard's best men, sent back to the rere, hastened towards the assailants to se- 
 cond the Earl, who at that time with some six horse did charge the assailing rebels and 
 beat them a musket shot back, still pursuing them, till they, having spent their powder, 
 and thrown their staves, darts, and innumerable stones, recovered the place, where Tyrone 
 stood himself with some 220 horse and 200 foot in sight (besides a far greater number hid 
 in the woods) which never came into this sight. When our men had thus gained much 
 ground, the Earl commanded them to march towards the army, and presently Sir Richard 
 Wingfield, the Marshall of the army of Ireland, came to them with order from the Lord 
 Deputy that since the repulsed rebels were not like to give any second charge, they should 
 continue their march, following his lordship's troops directly to the Newry. In this con- 
 flict 20 of our men were slain, Captain Atherton and Master Cheut were shot, and some 
 few hurt with swords and such weapons. On the rebels' side there were in all 1,200 foot 
 thus advantageously lodged and 220 horse ; and Tyrone himself confessed that ten of his 
 men died with over-travelling in this hasty march, besides such as were killed, whose num- 
 ber could not certainly be learned. 
 
 The Lord Deputy, hearing on the 28th of May that Tyrone had drawn back his men 
 two miles further into the fastness, and being informed that the Pace of the Moyre, by rea- 
 son of much wet lately fallen and the rebels breaking off the causey, was hard to pass, re- 
 turned by Carlingford Pace to Dundalk, and so to Dublin, where he understood that the 
 rebels had in his absence burned the Pale, though he left for defence of it 2,000 foot and 
 175 horse in Leinster ; but the damage was not answerable to the clamour, for many pri- 
 vate men have in England sustained greater loss by casual fire in time of peace than the 
 whole Pale had done by the enemys' burning in war, and many private men in England 
 have in one year lost more cattle by the rot than the Pale lost by this spoyling of the 
 rebels of which they lamentably complained. Besides that indeed this burning and spoyl- 
 iug of the very Pale did further the greatest end of finishing the wars, no way so likely to 
 he brought to an end as by a general famine. 
 
 On the 14th September, 1600, the same author states that the Lord Deputy began 
 another journey into the North, and on the 15th encamped at the hill of Faghard, three 
 miles beyond the Dundalk, and there his lordship lay till the 9th of October, in such ex- 
 tremities of weather as would have hindred his passage, if the enemy had not withstood 
 him, his lordship's tent being continually wet, and often blown down. Before his lordship
 
 THE TIGHT AT THE MOYEE, ANNO 1600. 77 
 
 came, Tyrone with his uttermost strength had possessed the Moyre, being a strong fast- 
 ness as any of the rebels had, but his lordship resolved to march over him if he stopped 
 his way, and make him know that his kerne could not keep the fortifications against the 
 Queen's forces. Many skirmishes fell out happily to us, and two several days the enemy 
 were beaten out of their trenches with great loss, till at last, upon the 8th day of October, 
 they left the passage clear. 
 
 Then, after the army was a few days refreshed at Dundalk, his lordship marched the 
 21st day of October to the Newry, passing through the Moyre, where he caused all the 
 rebels' trenches to be laid flat to the ground, and the woods to be cut down on both sides 
 of the place. 
 
 Cox gives a more descriptive account of this affair (vol. 1, p. 428). The Lord Lieutenant 
 returned to Dublin Aug. 26, and on September 14th began another journey into the North. 
 On 20th he encamped at Faghard, where his army being mustered, were in list 4,150, but 
 by poll, 2,400 foot and 300 horse. He was by extremity of weather detained there till the 
 1st of October. 
 
 In the meantime O'Neill had possessed himself of the Pass of the Moyre, but on the 
 2nd and 5th of October the English skirmished so successfully with them, that on the 9th 
 they quitted the fastness; whereupon Mountjoy cut down the woods on both sides, and 
 having refreshed his army at Dundalk, on 21st of October he marched to the Newry, 
 where for want of victuals he stayed till the 2nd of November. 
 
 Under 14th May, 1601, we have it recorded that the army dislodged from the Faugh- 
 ard, and leaving the Moyre fort defensible, with wardens to guard it, and the workmen, 
 being to build a tower or keep of stone, they marched eight miles, and encamped at Car- 
 rickbane, a little Northward of the Newry. In 1602, the Lord Deputy arrived in the 
 North, before the general hosting for the year could be in readiness, and cleared and as- 
 sured the passage of the Moyre, by cutting down most part of the woods and building a 
 fort there. From thence he went to Armagh, where he placed a garrison. 
 
 From this time we read of nothing remarkable of this place until the submission of 
 Tyrone and subjugation of the rebels, which rendered this fortress no longer necessary for 
 the English interests. And so, after the settlement of Ulster in the reign of James I., 
 this castle was permitted to crumble to ruins. 
 
 This Pass, according to Cambden, is by nature the most difficult in Ireland, and be- 
 sides, the rebels had with great art and industry obstructed it by fences, stakes, hurdles, 
 stones, and clods of earth, as it lies between the hills, woods, and bogs on both sides, and 
 had also lined it with soldiers. Moreover, the weather was very bad, and the great rains 
 which had fallen for some days together had made the rivers overflow, and to be impassible. 
 As soon as the watera fell, the English opened their way through this passage and the 
 fences with great courage ; and notwithstanding all the difficulties they had to encounter, 
 they beat back the ememy, and marched towards Armagh. 
 
 The castle standing on a solid rock, with four square sides, and about forty yards in 
 circumference is partially in ruins. The ground floor contains nine portholes of rather 
 small dimensions, and the second landing about the same number. From its eminence or 
 high position it commands a long range of the Pass, or old road, between Dublin and Bel- 
 fast. At this peculiar spot, it is said, frequent robberies and murders were committed 
 the place being solitary, and buried on either side by large shelving mountains. In the 
 grounds adjoining the castle numerous small leaden balls are found, as if a great battle was 
 fought around it. 
 
 The Rev. Dr. Davis, in his diary of " King William's progress to the Boyne (A.D., 
 1690)" writes : " June 26th. In the morning we decamped, and, going over Poins Pass, 
 we came to Newry, and passing the bridge, pitched our tents on a hill beyond the
 
 76 TOPOGBAPIIICAL EESEABCHES. 
 
 town. The king lay in a small tent by us, being well assured that our way was open to 
 Dundalk. 
 
 " 27th. We marched from Newry over the Pass at Moyre, where the enemy, if thev 
 had any spirit, might easy have stopt us for some time. About ten of the clock we saw 
 Dundalk, and passing the river near Bedlow Castle, and going over the ground of the last 
 encampment, we pitched, a mile beyond the town, on the same ground where King James 
 lay last year. Even now, with the advantage derived from the clear state of the country, 
 Moyre Pass might be stiffly contested. The ground at both sides slopes gradually, leaving 
 the Pass narrow, and in the centre stands the abrupt crag, bearing the broken tower 
 erected by Lord Mountjoy, as a stronghold against the Ulster Irish, in 1600." 
 
 With regard to the maintenance of this place, we find from an entry of the Patent Rolls, 
 A.D. 1606 James I., that the following places were set apart for its support: The townes, 
 landes, woodes, &c., of Carrickbradagh, Drummad, Oghilloutragh, Oghillstraght, Dromenty, 
 and a parcel of the Feede, situate nigh to the N. and West parts of the Mountaine of the 
 Feede in the County Ardmagh ; which lands are thus bounded, viz., From the river called 
 the Flower mill-water, untill to, and soe by the top of the Mountain of the Feede, until the 
 river Killmasagart, nigh the castle of and in the Moyre in said County ; all which were 
 assigned for the better maintenance of the Fort, Castle, and Warde of the Moyre. 
 
 A Commission having been issued by the Lord Deputy Chichester, with the assent of 
 Sir Oghey O'Hanlon, Knt., for allotting a certain quantitie of land unto the said Fort and 
 Castle for the better maintenance and securitie thereof, without power of allineation, &c., &c., 
 
 CAPTAIN WILLIAMS AND THE BLACKWATER FORT. 
 
 'HE rebellion of 1598 had long been foreseen by English statesmen ; yet so great was 
 the Queen's aversion to the enormous charge attending the ordinary government of 
 Ireland, that her ministers shrank from urging upon her the additional outlay re- 
 quisite for any considerable increase in her army. As early as April, 1594, Sir George 
 Carew had, from his lodgings "in the Minories," written along letter to Cecil to prove, not 
 that rebellion was imminent, but how a rebellion, to be successful, ought to be, and, no 
 doubt would be conducted. His opinion of O'Neill was this " Tyrone havin<* had his 
 education in our discipline, and naturally valiant, is absolutely and worthily reputed the best 
 man of war of his nation. The most part of his followers are well trained soldiers, using our 
 weapons, and himself the greatest man of territory and revenue within the kingdom, and at this 
 present, by reason of his great alliance, and, as well for friendship as fear, the absolute com- 
 mander of all the North of Ireland." The warning of Carew met with little attention : 
 some trifling supplies were sent to the army in Ireland ; but when the rebellion broke out, the 
 whole force there consisted of but 10,082 foot and 521 horse, of which number about one- 
 third were mere Irish, " ready," to use the Queen's words, " to run away and join the 
 enemy against her." In 1598 Sir Henry Russell succeeded Sir Wm. Fitzwilliams as Lord 
 Deputy of Ireland, and "foreseeing a storm of war arising," applied for reinforcements and 
 an experienced commander to be sent from England to his assistance. It was time ! for the 
 plans of O'Neill were ripe ; he had assembled 1000 horse and 6,280 foot, not of the wild 
 kerne of his own country, but of expert soldiers, who had been trained and exercised to their 
 arms, and had already served in the wars of the Low Countries. No sooner did he hear of 
 the coming of Sir John Norreys, with 1300 old soldiers, who had served in Bretagne, than 
 he at once burst into rebellion, and seized the fort of Blackwater, which commanded the 
 passage into the land of Tyrone. 
 
 However, on the arrival of Norreys, he was compelled to relinquish his prize ; but not 
 until he had wasted the surrounding country and burned the town of Dungannon and his 
 own house in it. The army brought by the Lord Justice was very immense, for he had
 
 CAPTAIN WILLIAMS AND THE BLACZWATEB FOET. 79 
 
 with him Sir John Norris, the Queen's General in Ireland, and the Earl of Thomond, (Don- 
 ough, son of Conor O'Brien), with all their forces. They never halted until thev arrived at 
 Newry, from whence they proceeded to Armagh. Here they resolved not to" delay until 
 they should reach the Abhainn-Mhor, or Blackwater, in the middle of Tyrone. On their 
 march over the direct road from Armagh to this river, they beheld the fortified camp, and 
 the strong battle array of the enemy under the O'Neill and O'Donnell ; and when the 
 English army perceived this, they remained where they were until the next day, when they 
 returned back to Armagh. The Irish went in pursuit of them, and pitched their camp near 
 them. They remained there face to face for the space of fifteen days, without any attack 
 from either side ; for the Lord Justice and his army were within the metropolitan church of 
 Armagh, engaged in erecting towers and deepening the trenches around the town. At the 
 expiration of this time, the Lord Justice left three companies of soldiers to defend Armagh 
 and he himself returned to Newry ; and the Irish went in pursuit to the gate of Newry. In 
 a week afterwards the Lord Justice set out with provisions to Monaghan, and from thence 
 he proceeded with his army to Dublin, where, by proclamation, O'Neill was declared a traitor 
 by the name of Hugh O'Neill, and grand son of Matthew Tardarengh, i.e., the blacksmith' 
 Jealousies broke out between Norreys and Russel : the former entered into a treaty with 
 O'Neill, which led to a series of short truces, during which Russell was recalled, and Lord 
 Borough, " a sharp witted man and full of courage," was appointed in his place'. O'Neill 
 had again possessed himself of the Fort of Blackwater, and the Deputy at once led a force 
 to recover it. He succeeded, strengthened its fortifications, and returned to Dublin having 
 confided the commanding of it this time to a gallant officer of the name of Williams. ' Tyrone 
 again led his companies to that Fort of evil omen, and the Deputy again marched to its relief. 
 In midjourney he was stricken with sudden illness and died, leaving the army without a 
 leader, and Ireland without a governor. The gallant Williams, though his small force was 
 half famished, and sickness was amongst them, refused to surrender the Fort. The garrison 
 had eaten their last horse, and were living upon the "grass that grew upon the*bulwarks." 
 O'Neill had surrounded the place on all sides, and swore " by his barbarous hand that as 
 long as he could get a cow from the English Pale to feed his companies he would not leave 
 it." Captain Williams proved himself a brave commander, and his half-famished garrison as 
 well the "sicke as the whoole," had taught O'Neill what British soldiers could do when 
 fighting in right of their prince. The Irish chieftain profitted by the lesson, and attempted 
 no more assaults, but vigorously set about digging trenches around the fort, and thus cut 
 off from Captain Williams the forlorn hope of future sallies, and the capture of his enemy's 
 mares. These trenches are described as works of amazing magnitude such as had never 
 yet been seen in Irish warfare. They were more than a mile in length, several feet deep, 
 " with a thorny hedge on the toppe," and connected with vast tracts of bog ; every approach 
 to the unhappy garrison was " plashed " (branches of trees partly cut off and bound to other 
 branches) and rendered impassable for Artillery, as the English afterwards found to their 
 heavy cost, and the Irish forces so distributed that a battle under every disadvantage must 
 be fought by any army coming to relieve the Fort. Cambden informs us that thestate of 
 Ireland was at this time very much out of order, for all Ulster, beyond Dundalk, except seven 
 garrison castles, namely Newry, Knockfergus, Carlingford, Greencastle, Armagh, Dundrum, 
 and Olderfleet, and almost all Connaught, were revolted. If any man could have extricated 
 the government from its miserable plight it would have been Ormond. Yet even he looked 
 with dismay upon the unequal struggle before him. "The times," he wrote, " are more 
 miserable than ever before. If our wants be not speedily supplied the whole kingdom will 
 be overthrown. The garrisons everywhere at this moment are ready to starve. The soldiers 
 run away daily, though I have hanged many of them in the maratime towns." 
 
 After much debating in the council, Captain Williams was permitted to make the best 
 terms he could, and surrender the Fort; but the soldiers overruled the idea. Bagenall cried
 
 80 TOPOGBAPHICAL HESEABCHES. 
 
 shame upon the timidity which would bring dishonour upon the army, and insisted upon an 
 instant march to re-victual the Fort, and drive O'Neill before its walls. And then was taken 
 the fatal resolution of dividing the English forces into two bodies, one to march without 
 delay to the Blackwater, and the other to proceed against the Cavanaghs. It was the wish 
 of the council that Ormond himself should undertake to deal with O'Neill ; but it chanced 
 that Bagenall and O'Neill were bitter personal foes ; O'Neill had married the marshal's 
 sister, and out of that alliance had sprung a mutual feeling of deadly hate, Bagenall en- 
 treated Ormond to allow him to meet his enemy, and it was so decided. 
 
 The Countess of Tyrone did not live to witness the mortal struggle of her husband and 
 brother. Her death took place in January, 1596, two years and a half before the " Jorney 
 of the Blackwater." 
 
 CAPTURE OF THE CASTLE AND GARRISON OF ARMAGH. 
 
 IREVIOUS to the battle of the Yellow Ford, Hugh O'Neill was the most powerful of 
 all the Irish chiefs, and was besides a favourite of all the English court, where he had 
 been for a considerable time. Though not tall, yet, he was powerfully made, and 
 could endure the greatest fatigue. On his return to Ireland, he received the command of 
 two regiments ; these he was careful to instruct in the English mode of warfare, and ac- 
 cording as they became sufficiently expert, he dismissed them to their houses and had their 
 places supplied with others. He gave fire arms to the country people that they might become ac- 
 customed to their use, and by this means contrived to discipline his people and prepare them 
 for the ulterior objects he had in view. 
 
 Under the pretext of building a castle at Dungannon, he obtained leave of the council to 
 import sheet-lead from England. The lead thus procured was converted into bullets : and 
 his secret depots in the North were plentifully supplied with provisions and warlike stores 
 of every description. Whilst abiding his time to unfurl the standard of revolt, he displayed 
 all the caution and skill of the most experienced commander. At length, in the year 1596, 
 he suddently marched to Armagh, cut off that fortress from communication with the other 
 garrisons, and succeeded in forcing it to surrender before Sir John Norris could arrive to its 
 relief. The capture is said to have been the result of a stratagem. A convoy of provision 
 had been sent thither from Dundalk when Tyrone was approaching against it, and this was 
 surprised by night by the Irish Chieftain, and its escort made prisoners. Tyrone ordered 
 the English soldiers to be stript, and clothed an equal number of his own men in their uni- 
 forms, whom he posted in the ruins of a monastery on the Eastern side of the city (Francis- 
 can Abbey in the Primate's demesne) under the command of Con O'Neill. At break of day, 
 the Earl suddenly appeared with a large body of his men and attacked Con's party in the 
 ruins. The English soldiers in the castle imagined that it was their convoy from Dundalk 
 was attacked by the Irish, and one-half of the garrison was immediately sent out to their as- 
 sistance. Hitherto, the sham combatants had only loaded their guns with blank cartridge, 
 but when the soldiers of the garrison had reached the spot they were astounded at being 
 attacked by both parties; and at the same moment the rest of the Irish forces, which had 
 been concealed in the Abbey, come upon them in the rear. Thus surrounded, the English 
 were all slaughtered, after which Armagh was surrendered, on condition that the remainder 
 of its garrison under its commander, Francis Stafford, should be allowed to retire without 
 interruption to Dundalk. I shall now, after the lapse of two years, give a short narrative of the 
 
 BATTLE OF THE YELfcOW TOED. 
 
 The Following extract shows the date of battle. 
 
 " The Lords Justice to the Privy Council, 1598 August 14th. Ill newse out of Ireland. 
 12th of August, theye came from the Newry to Armagh. The 14th August, theye sete
 
 CAPTURE OF TIIE CASTLE AND GARBISOX OF ARMAGH.. SI 
 
 forwardes towardes the Blackwater with 4,000 footmen and 350 horses." 
 
 Sir 
 Anna 
 
 Blackwater 
 
 to O'Donnell, urging him to come to his assistance against this overwhelming force of lor - 
 eigners. O'Donnell accordingly with all his warriors both infantry and cavalry, and a 
 strong body offerees from Cpnnaught, advanced eager to assist his ally. The Irish of all 
 the province of Ulster also joined the same army, so that they were all prepared to meet the 
 English before they arrived at Armagh. They dug up deep trenches against the enemy in 
 the common road, over which they thought they (the English) would pass. The English 
 forces after remaining a night at Armagh, rose early next morning, and determined to leave 
 their victuals, drink, women and children, their horses, baggage and servants in the city. Orders 
 were then given that, every one able to be in arms, both horse and foot, should proceed in 
 close order and array ; in which manner they arrived at a hill which overlooked the ford of 
 
 Beal na atha bhuide i.e. Bellanaboy. 
 
 When the Marshall and his English forces saw the Irish warriors and champions of the 
 north awaiting them, they advanced with vigour and crossed the first broad and deep trench 
 that lay in their way. The Irish army, led by Tyrone and 0' Donnell, poured down upon 
 them vehemently, shouting in the rear and on every side of them. The van of the English 
 was obliged to await the onset and withstand the firing, so that their close lines were thinned, 
 " their gentlemen gapped," and their heroes subdued. But to sum up in brief the general' 
 when raising his helmet to take a view of the field, was struck by a musket ball on the fore- 
 head and fell lifeless on the ground. At the same time a fearful explosion took place among 
 the Queen's troops, and a great number of the men who were around the powder were blown 
 up. The whole English army in complete disorder fled in every direction. 
 
 Who has not heard, while Erin yet, 
 
 Strove 'gainst the Saxon's iron bit. 
 
 Who has not heard how bravo O'Neill 
 
 In English blood imbrued his steel. 
 
 Against bt. George's cross blazed high, 
 
 The banners of his Tanistry, 
 
 To fiery Essex gave the foil, 
 
 And r*eigned a 1'rince in Ulster's soil? 
 
 Hut chief arose his victor pride. 
 
 When that brave Marshal fought and died, 
 
 And Avon Duff to ocean bore 
 
 Her billows red with Saxon gore. 
 
 " It may be curious to state," writes O'Curry, " that at the celebrated battle of Bel an other 
 Ihuidh fought by the great Hugh lioe O'Donnell, against the English in 1598, O'Donnell's 
 poet, Ferfesa O'Clery, quoted the following verse from a prophecy of St. Berchan to show 
 that he (O'Donnell), was the person foretold in it who would destroy the English power in 
 Ireland; but this verse is not found in any of the Saint's prophecies. Indet-d, I stronglv 
 incline to believe it was specially made for the occasion. 
 
 " In the battle of the Yellow Ford, 
 It is by him shall tall the tyrants; 
 After extirpation of the foreigners, 
 Joyful will be the men from Torry." 
 
 Mason and Cambden state that there fell with the Marshal, 13 captains, and 1500 common 
 soldiers, many of whom had served in Brittany, under General Norris. But O'Sullivan, a
 
 82 TOPOGRAPHICAL EESEAECHES. 
 
 contemporary writer, asserts that 2500 of the Queen's soldiers, 23 superior officers, and a 
 number of lieutenants, ensigns and sergeants were slain in the fight. 34 military standards, 
 1200 pieces of gold, all the musical instruments, artillery and provisions were captured by 
 the victors. Of Tyrone's troops, 200 were slain and 600 wounded. The part of the Queen's 
 army which escaped the slaughter went back to Armagh, eagerly pursued by the Irish, who 
 continued " to slay them by pairs, threes, scores and thirties, until they passed within the 
 walls of the city." The Irish then besieged the town, and surrounded it on every side. Both 
 armies continued to fire at each other for three days and three nights ; at the expiration of 
 which the English ceased, and sent messengers to their opponents to say that they would 
 surrender the fort at the Blackwater, if the wardens who were stationed in it were suffered 
 to come unmolested to them to Armagh, and that on arriving there they would leave the 
 city itself, if they should be granted quarter and escorted in safety out of that country into 
 a safe territory-. To these conditions the Irish agreed, and the captain and wardens came to 
 Armagh to join that portion of the English who had survived the slaughter. They were 
 all then escorted from Armagh to Newry, and from thence to the English territory. This 
 battle of AtJibuidhe was fought on 14th August, 1598, and the chiefs of Ulster returned to 
 their respective homes in joyous triumph, although they lost many men. 
 
 The site of this battle Seal an atha buidhe, i.e., the mouth of the yellow ford, is indicated 
 on an old map of the country, "lying between Lough Erne and Dundalk," preserved in the 
 State Papers' Office, London, as on the banks of the river Callan, to the N. E. of the city 
 of Armagh. The place is called Balhinackillown, and the following words are written across 
 the spot "Here Sir Henry Bagenall was slain." This undoubtedly is the spot, on the site 
 of which Stuart, J. Curry, and others speculated so much. " Not far distant," writes Stuart, 
 "from these ruins (Bishops' court, at Mullinure N. E. of the city) is the place which Speed 
 calls Mackilloran, which is probably the site of Killotir Church, spoken of by O'Sullivan and 
 other Irish writers. Speed, however, cannot be relied upon, as his maps are crowded with 
 typographical errors, as in this instance, inserting Mackilloran for Mackilloune, and Kafin 
 for Kalin (river). O'Donovan says, "the name of Ballinaboy is now applied to a small 
 marsh or cut bog, situate in the townland of Cabra (goat land), about a mile and three- 
 quarters to the north of the city of Armagh. A short distance to the north of this bog 
 stands a white-thorn bush, locally called the "great man's thorn," which is said to have 
 been planted near the grave of Marshall Bagenall. Captain Tucker, who surveyed this 
 part of Ireland for the Ordnance Survey, has marked the site of this battle on the Ordnance 
 map by two swords in saltier and the date 1598. 
 
 On the appointment of Lord Mountjoy to the office of Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1600, 
 Tyrone returned in haste to Dungannon, and marching on with the hope of arresting Mount- 
 joy's progress, he raised the old Fort of Blackwater, burnt Armagh, and distributed his 
 men in the fastnesses of Lough Lurkin (or Lurgan, near Silver Bridge), where he threw 
 up entrenchments, &c., constructed rude fortifications, a line of three miles in extent, on 24th 
 June. The year following the Lord Deputy proceeded to Tyrone, and, after having 
 re-built and garrisoned the Fort of Blackwater, he drew off his army and returned to 
 Armagh, where he received despatches from the court of England. 
 
 To such extremities was O'Neill reduced after the defeat of the insurgants in the South 
 of- Ireland, that on the 6th April, 1603, he renewed his submission to King James I. in the 
 same terras as he made, to Queen Elizabeth, and at the same time he wrote a letter to the 
 King of Spain, acquainting him with his submission, requesting him to send back his son 
 Henry, who had been for some time resident at the Spanish court. The Lord Deputy gave 
 him a new protection to serve till he had sued out his pardon ; and he was sent back to his 
 orcn country to " settle the same, and to keep his friends and former confederates in better 
 order." Thus was the great rebellion, which, tormenting the latter years of Queen Elizabeth, 
 had called for an unexampled expenditure of English money and blood 5 while it agitated
 
 SITE OF THE BATTL OF BELLANABOY, OR YELLOW FOBD. 83 
 
 every part of Ireland and reduced its finest provinces to a desert, brought at length to a 
 close. Moryson estimates the expenditure from 10th October, 1598, to the last of March 
 1003, exclusive of extraordinaries, at no less than, 1,198,718. The year previous, Lord 
 Mountjoy built the Forts of Charlemont, Mountjoy, with several smaller castles 
 
 After the war of Elizabeth, Roderick O'Donnell, going into England with LordMountiov 
 was created Earl of Tyrconnell ; but, in 1607, he was deprived thereof, on which occasion 
 he and O Neill, after having in vain attempted a fresh insurrection, fled on the 14th Sept 
 to the continent, never to return, leaving their lands and estates to forfeiture and con&- 
 cation Thus it happened that the project, called the Plantation of Ulster, was carried into 
 
 cnrfnnn 7 .u ^ L W& - 6nabled tO div ' de am n - En S Iish and Scottish settlers 
 00,000 acres, the ancient territories of the O'Neill's, O'Donnell's, O'Reilly's Mao-uire's 
 and other chiefs m Tyrone, Derry, Donegall, Fermanagh, Cavan and Armagh 
 
 The sudden flight of the two Earls filled Ireland with astonishment^ and caused an 
 extraordinary sensation throughout Catholic Europe. O'Donnell died shortly after he 
 reached Rome in 1608, but O'Neill dragged on a painful and miserable existence, and died 
 blind and broken down with his guilt and misfortunes, on July 16, 1616. 
 
 SITE OF THE BATTLE OF BELLANABOY, OR YELLOW FORD. 
 
 | HE Site of the Battle of the Yellow Ford, as pointed out by local tradition and 
 authenticated by men well versed in Irish history, admits of some debate, and I shall 
 endeavour to prove that the spot so long recognized as the place where the English 
 commander Sir Henry Bagenall fell was not at Cabragh, in the Parish of Grange, but at a place 
 near Bagenall s Bridge (called after the general), separating the Townlands of Drumcullen and 
 iirgarve, and on the direct road to the fort erected on the Blackvvater, where the English Gen- 
 eral was proceeding to meet the rebel, Hugh O'Neill. In thus attempting to remove landmarks 
 made by chroniclers and historians, as well as to doubt local tradition, the writer subjects 
 himself to criticism ; but he trusts that in pursuing this bold course it will eventually lead 
 to an examination of facts which may decide the uncertainty that prevails not only as to 
 the proper site of the battle of the "Yellow Ford," but other interesting places inland 
 around this ancient city. 
 
 In the annals of the Four Masters, Dr. O'Donovan, under 1598, has the followin" note 
 
 1 he site of this battle is shewn on an old map of the country lying between Lou^h Erne 
 
 and Dundalk, preserved in the State Papers Office, London, as on the banks of tie river 
 
 Callan to the north-east of the City of Armagh, the place is called Ballymackilloune, and 
 
 the iollowmg words are written across the spot : 
 
 ' Here Sir H. Bagenall, Marshall of Newry, was slain.' 
 
 The name of Beal an atha buidhe anglice, Bellanaboy is now applied to a small marsh 
 or cut out bog, situated in the townland of Cabragh, about one mile and three-quarters to 
 the north of the city of Armagh. Captain Tucker, R.E., who surveyed this part of Ireland 
 for the ordnance survey, has marked the site of this battle on the Ordnance Map bv two 
 swords in saltier, and the date 1598." 
 
 "A little to the north of this 'small marsh,' nearly opposite Watt's cottage a white 
 thorn bush is (gravely) pointed out as the spot where Sir Henrv Bagenall wasburied and 
 called ' The great man's thorn.' " 
 
 Sir Henry Bagenall was not buried here, for according to the accounts given by " Cor- 
 
 Byllmges, F. Feteplace and Captain Hawes in the Jorney of the Blackwater": taken 
 
 om the State Papers of Queen Elizabeth in the retreat of the army to Armagh, they 
 
 garded the deade bodye of the Marshall," to Armagh. 7
 
 81 TOPOQBAPIIICAL BESEA.KCHES. 
 
 In 1S72, when removing some earth from the South transept of the Armagh Cathedral 
 for the purpose of laying new scats, several skulls were raised, in one of which was dis- 
 covered a hole in the forehead, such as would he made by a large bullet, and answering the 
 description "and in his goinge downe he was slayne with a shott throwth his forehead." 
 As O'Neill and the Marshall were at enmity, 'tis very probable that the Earl would not 
 comply with the petition to have the body removed to St. Patrick's, Newry, and thus the 
 remains of Sir Henry rest with us in the Armagh Cathedral. 
 
 On the 16th Aug., two days after the battle, Mar: Whitechurch, Liefetenant of the 
 Marshall's horse troop and John Lee, Secretary to the Marshall, went to the Chaunter of Ar- 
 magh who was then at the Newry to " entreate hym, yf he cold, to use som means for the 
 obteyning ot leve from th' archtrytor Tirone to bringe the deade corpes of the Marshall, Sir 
 Henry Bagnall from Armagh (where yt then was) unto Newrie, wch the Chaunter promised 
 us he wold doe his beste to performe ; but he wold go himself unto Tirone about it." 
 
 Now to determine accurately the site of this callian a catli (or Field of Fight), it will be 
 necessary to examine the relative positions of the contending armies, and trace their move- 
 ments until they meet in deadly array on the field of battle. It will then be seen that the 
 correctness of identifying the "small marsh " or triangular field in Cabragh (goat land) as 
 the place where Sir Henry Bagenall was killed, admits of strong doubts, both from its being 
 a great distance from the rivers Blackwater and Callan, as well as not being in the direct 
 road to the " New Fort " on the Blackwater, where the English General with his army 
 were marching to meet the O'Neill, who was then laying siege to that garrison. 
 
 On the way from Armagh to this fortress (which according to Moryson was only a deep 
 trench or wall of earth to lodge one hundred soldiers) within a short distance of the rivers 
 Callan and Blackwater, lies a spot in the townland of Drumcullen which the tradition of the 
 place points out where Sir Henry Bagenall fell. Several bullets and other implements of 
 war are said to have been found in the locality. The fact of a bridge, too, being called 
 after the General gives strength to the belief that this place has superior claims to Cabragb, 
 which is in another direction, and, in fact, leading to the unhistoric village of Loughgall. 
 
 Mr. M'Keough, who resides close to this bridge, informed the writer, in presence of 
 many of his neighbours, who concurred with him, that about 30 years ago he saw several 
 large sepulchral mounds in the levelling of which many human bones gun bullets and 
 other materials of war were discovered. It is also the common impression that as the Earl 
 of Tyrone took possession of the common road or "highway," which was terribly trenched 
 up as hereafter described, the English soldiers retreated to Armagh by Cabragh through a 
 lane which still retains the name of the " bloody loaning." The great slaughter which 
 took place here very probably gave rise to the idea entertained by many as the site of the 
 Battle of Bellanaboy, and Captain Tucker in turn stereotyped the tradition on the Ordnance 
 Survey Maps. 
 
 The site of this battle is also fixed by Moryson, where he writes Anno 1601, lib. 2, cap. 
 1, p. Ill "On the 23rd day, his Lordship making a show to draw from his camp beyond 
 Armagh towards Blackwater, caused his forces to make a stand for his retreat, and so him- 
 self, with his followers and servants, rode more than a mile forward, to view the icay to 
 Blackwater Fort, and {lie place of the famous BlacJcwater defeat, under the fllarshall Bage- 
 nalVs conduct, and having passed a pace without one shot made at his troop, he returned 
 to his forces, and marching back he left a garrison of 750 foot and 100 horse, at the Abbey 
 of Armagh, under the command of Sir Henry Dawers, and that night marched with the 
 rest near to Mountnorris, where he encamped, having in this march from Armagh, viewed 
 the Ford where General Norreys formerly was hurt, making a stand with his horse to se- 
 cure his foot, distressed by Tyrone's charge. 
 
 There was very probably a battle fought near Cabra, which may have given some foun- 
 dation to the story, as appears from Moryson's itinerary under 3rd August, 1000 : " We
 
 SITE OF THE BATTLE OF BALLINABOT, OE YELLOW FORD. 85 
 
 rose, and having marched three miles back, we encamped between the paces and Armagh, 
 a little beyond Armagh, towards the north, that we might have better grass for the 
 horses, and all the way we marched the rebels in their fortresses drew down close by and 
 followed us all the way, being strong. The fourth day some companies were drawn out to 
 cut the pace of Armagh, and the rebels being in sight, offered not to skirmish with them ; 
 but towards night they drew down strong out of the woods to an hill, under which we lay 
 encamped in a fair meadow. They came with cries and sound of drums and bagpipes, as 
 if they would attempt the camp, and poured into it some two or three thousand shot, hurt- 
 ing only two of our men. But his lordship commanding that none in the camp should stir, 
 had lodged in a trench some 400 shot, charging them not to shoot till the rebels approached 
 near. And after these, our men had given them a volley in their teeth, they drew away 
 and we heard no more of their drums or bagpipes, but only mournful cries : for many of 
 their best men were slain. The next morning we found some dead bodies at the skirt of 
 the wood, and three shattered pieces." 
 
 Let us now review the history of the whole transaction and return a true verdict accord- 
 ing to the evidence. 
 
 Blackwatertown is situated on the old road from Armagh to Dungannon, and on the 
 river Blackwater, from which it takes its name. During the rebellion of the Earl of 
 Tyrone, in the reign of Elizabeth, an English garrison called " New Fort" was placed here 
 to check the incursions of that chieftian, who under a plea of some injuries done to his party 
 by the English, in 1595 attacked and expelled the garrison and obtained possession of the 
 fortress, which he subsequently destroyed and abandoned on the approach of Sir John 
 Morris. In 1593 the Earl covenanted to rebuild it, and to supply an English garrison to 
 be then stationed in it with all necessaries, as one of the conditions upon which peace was 
 granted to him by Elizabeth the Queen. In the following year the English forces, under 
 Lord Deputy Borough, assaulted the place and easily took possession ; but the insurgents 
 soon reappeared and commenced an attack ; and though the further progress of the war 
 was prevented by the death of the General, yet a strong English garrison was stationed 
 here as a frontier post. Tyrone was once more compelled to agree to repair the fort and 
 bridge, and to supply the garrison, but he shortly after attacked the former with the 
 greatest vigour ; and as the works were probably weak and imperfect, the assailants were 
 repulsed only by the determined valour of the garrison. The Earl afterwards attempted 
 to reduce it by famine ; and the besieged were driven to the last extremities, when Sir 
 Henry Bagenall, with an English army of about 4,000 infantry and GOO cavalry, marched 
 to their relief with a large quantity of provisions. Marching through Drogheda, Dundalk, 
 and Newry they at length arrived at Armagh where they remained all night. When 
 O'Neill, who was besieging the Fort on the Blackwater, had received intelligence that this 
 great army was approaching him, he sent messengers to O'Donnell, urging him to come to 
 his assistance. O'Donnell proceeded immediately with all his warriors, and a strong body 
 of forces from Connaught to assist his allay against those who were marching against him. 
 The Irish of the province of Ulster also joined the same army, so that they were all pre- 
 pared to meet the English before their arrival at Armagh. They then dug deep trenches 
 against the English in the common road, by which they thought they (the English) would 
 go to meet them. (Where ?) 
 
 After remaining a night in Armagh, the English rose next morning early, formed into 
 order and proceeded straight forward in solid bodies, till they came to the hill which over- 
 looks the ford of Beal an atha buidhe i.e. the mouth of the Yellow Ford. 
 
 O'Sullivan states that the English Army passed unmolested from Armagh over a level 
 and open tract of ground. About 7 o'clock they entered a narrow pass where trees and 
 thickets were thinly scattered over the surface of the ground. Here O'Neill had stationed
 
 86 TOPOGRAPHICAL BESEAECHES. 
 
 500 active and lightly armed youths, who, protected by the trees, poured in volumes of 
 shot upon the British troops. In this desultary warfare, Bagenall's army experienced con- 
 siderable loss, yet he succeeded in forcing his way till he arrived at a large plain which ex- 
 tended to Tyrone's camp. Bagenall was repeatedly arrested in his progress, but at eleven 
 o'clock arrived at a short distance of Tyrone's camp, within about three miles of Armagh. 
 
 It is unnecessary to state that the Queen's soldiers suffered a heavy defeat, and from the 
 preceding accounts we may infer that the site of the battle lay between Armagh and the 
 Fort on the Blackwater, within a short distance of Blackwatertown. 
 
 The battle is thus described in the " Montgomery Manuscripts," edited by Rev. John 
 Hill Belfast, 1869. " The victory of Hugh O'Neill over the English at the Blackwater." 
 
 The Fortress was immediately surrendered to the enemy, and the English soldiers then 
 were, by mutual condition, permitted to return to Armagh ; the Fort, however, was soon 
 afterwards recovered. Opposite to the town (Blackwater) are vestiges of a Fort, by some 
 called the Blackwater Fort in the attempt to relieve the garrison of which Sir Henry 
 Bagenall lost his life ; and others, less informed supposed to have been the strong fortress 
 of Hugh, Earl of Tyrone, and one of those for which he stipulated when he obtained a 
 patent of Favour from Queen Elizabeth. Now the chief mansion of the Earl of Tyrone was 
 not at this place, but at Dungannon, and had a strong fort. To prevent confounding the 
 garrisons of Blackwater and Charlemont, I may mention that the latter was erected by 
 Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy, Deputy of Ireland, in the year 1602, as a curb on the 
 Earl of Tyrone. 
 
 SIR HENRY BAGENALL'S MARCH TO THE YELLOW FORD. 
 
 AVING in a previous paper corrected an old historical error in relation to the long 
 lost site of the Battle of Ballinaboy, where Sir Henry Bagenall was defeated and 
 slain in the good old days of Elizabeth our Queen, I shall now endeavour to trace 
 more minutely the old road from Armagh, over which the Queen's troops marched to meet 
 the Earl of Tyrone. 
 
 There were several roads in the sixteenth century leading from the city of Armagh to the 
 site of the battle of the Yellow Ford, the Blackwater Fort, and Dungannon. 
 
 After having enjoyed a personal inspection of the route, as well as from a careful perusal 
 of the various works which have been written on this interesting subject, including " The 
 Anuals of the Four Masters," "O'Sullivan's Historic Hibernian," "Moryson's Itinerary," and 
 the " Jorney of the Blackwater," I can, with some degree of confidence, affirm that Sir Henry 
 Bagenall and the English army, when marching from Armagh to meet Hugh O'Neill, Earl 
 of Tyrone, at the Blackwater, proceeded a little Northward by the East, or Armagh side of 
 what is called the "Yellow Ford" on the River Callan. 
 
 Thus, starting from Armagh at 7 o'clock, on the morning of Monday, 14th August, 1598, 
 Sir Henry Bagenall, having previously ascertained that the enemy had possession of the 
 main or chief road loading to Portmore or Blackwater Fort, advisedly directed his march a 
 little Northward, or, as the State Papers of Queen Elizabeth say, " a myle on the right- 
 hand side of the common highway." 
 
 It may be easily imagined how difficult a task it was, at this time, to carry heavy guns, 
 mounted on springless vehicles or waggons, composed of the strongest materials, tumbling 
 and tossing over very high and narrow roads, with ruts deep enough to fracture the leg of 
 a horse, filled to the brim with standing pools of rain-water. This was a trial of some skill 
 both for the horse and the driver. 
 
 The wheels too were very broad and solid, to make them suitable for the bad roads ; and the 
 traces were usually made of rope. There existed yet another serious impediment to bring 
 up the army in a lody ; there were then constructed no bridges, and so the artillery and
 
 SIE HENEY BAGEN ALL'S MABCH TO THE YELLOW FOED. 87 
 
 horse were obliged to cross the Ford through the river ; thus losing much valuable time 
 which, in the present instance, was the chief cause of turning the scale of victory into the 
 hands of Hugh O'Neill, who was quite prepared for the adventure. 
 
 Having passed the site of the railway station and the old bridge hill, leading to Geery's 
 bridge on the left, the General entered a little road beyond the Lunatic Asylum, running 
 to Tullyard, which he held, keeping by the river and to the west of Tullyard hill. The 
 Royal troops now advanced through Lisdonwilly and Ballymackilmurry, in the parish of 
 Grange, where Borlase, in his "History of the Irish Rebellion," p. 194, writes that in the 
 year 1641, (43 years after the battle of the Yellow Ford), two hundred Protestants were 
 drowned in a Lough hard by, yclept, Watt's bog, where human bones were dug up. This 
 may, in some measure, account for the general tradition that the battle was fought at 
 Cabragh. 
 
 From a hill, " which overlooks the Ford," the English soldiers now saw the " Irish War- 
 riors and Champions " on the opposite side of the River Callan, awaiting their arrival. 
 
 At this point, close to a Mr. M'Carragher's farm house, the old road abruptly stops, but 
 within a very short distance, a few yards, remains the celebrated " Alistragh Pass," as re- 
 corded in the maps of the Escheated Counties in Ireland, published in 1609 the Ordnance 
 Survey, and other historical documents. 
 
 Here is the remarkable spot indicated by O'Sullivan, where he says that the battle of the 
 Yellow Ford was "fought on the River Callan, Aug. 10, 1589, (recte Aug. 14, 1598) about 
 two miles North-East of Armagh." 
 
 On the West or O'Neill's side of the Ford, in a grazing field may still be traced the earthen 
 remains of the trenches prepared for the Royal troops. 
 
 Having crossed the water or "Yellow Ford," (so called from the colour of the precipi- 
 tous banks which overhang the stream,) the action commenced, and raged with doubtful 
 success for four hours, between this place and Bagenall's bridge, in the townland of Drum- 
 cullen, about half-a-mile distant from the river. 
 
 The old road now turns a little southward , and passes Mr. Robert M'Kennel's premises, thence 
 over what is called the " Hole Stone Hill," where may be viewed the " lata planicies " or 
 battle scene, stretching out before us in the townlands of Kellylin, Tyrgarve, and Drumcul- 
 len. As the fight really commenced at the Ford, it is presumed that the entire British 
 army was engaged ; so that the regular march terminated at this point. " The rear, no 
 sooner recovered the hill beyond the Ford towards Blackwater, but the enemy charged us 
 with horse and foot, to the number of 2,000 foot, and 400 horse." 
 
 The defeat of the English army was imputed to Bagenall's having divided his men into 
 six companies or parties marching carelessly in a woody country, at too great distances to 
 help one another (each 700 paces asunder) so that some of them knew nothing of the ac- 
 tion till it was all over ; and to the accidental firing of two or three barrels of powder. 
 
 To commemorate this eventful battle, a bridge in the Townland of Drumcullen, retains 
 the name of the English commander, who was slain in the action. 
 
 THE OLD EOAD OE "COMMON HIGHWAY" FEOM AEMAGH TO BELLANABOY AND 
 
 BLAOKWATEETOWN. 
 
 Having already stated that Sir Henry Bagenall, for certain reasons best known to him- 
 self, marched to the Yellow Ford, " a mile on the right hand side of the ' common high- way,' " 
 I shall now endeavour to point out the ordinary route to Blackwater and Charlemont. 
 
 As a good beginning, we shall start from the Protestant Hall, at the head of Dawson 
 Street. This building, at the period of which I am writing, was the site of the principal 
 Hotel in Armagh. Here very probably the great English general slept for the night. At 
 subsequent times the unfortunate King James II. and Duke Schomberg occupied the same
 
 88 TOPOGHAPHICAL EESEABCHES. 
 
 quarters, enjoying alike the hospitality of " Mine Host of the Inn." Proceeding down Daw- 
 son Street, or, as it was originally called, "Abbey Lane," the road took a Westerly turn at 
 the iron gate, stretching across a meadow in a straight line until it joined the Desert Lane 
 where the Fever Hospital formerly stood. From this point we march over the Desert Hill 
 which by the way is paved with large slate stones, not now found in this neighbourhood, 
 until we arrive at a ford near Mr. Cardwell's weir. Over this narrow, rugged, and hilly 
 road the contending armies, as they journeyed from Armagh to the Blackwater in 1598 and 
 to Charlemont in 1688, dragged their old-fashioned cannon and military impedimenta. 
 Adopting a more Westward course, we cross Aughanore or the Golden Ford, where it is said 
 a bar of gold was found by a ploughman some four-score years ago. The lucky finder, whose 
 name yclept was Keltor, only discovered his good fortune when he brought it to a Black- 
 smith's forge for the purpose of mending his plough. The veteran smith, after heating the 
 metal, found it unfit for the purpose intended, and threw it aside amongst the old iron, tell- 
 ing Keltor it was mere pot-metal. The latter, however, not willing to leave it behind, took 
 it home, and after some time found that the bar, so indignantly rejected by the Blacksmith, 
 was a solid bar of pure gold. This fortunate circumstance realized the poor man 60 guineas, 
 which enabled him and his family to emigrate to America. This spot, hitherto unknown 
 to fame and antiquarian research, possesses great claims to the consideration of the archae- 
 ologist and historian. 
 
 In the Callan river, near this Ford, Mr. Cardwell found an iron battle-axe, which he still 
 retains amongst other curiousities : and about fourteen years ago, when sinking a mill-race, 
 at a depth of ten feet, the same gentleman discovered large oak beams, with stakes closely 
 piled around them for the purpose (it is supposed) of constructing a pass or junction be 
 tween Tullyelmer and Aughanore, to meet the Ford. 
 
 Having thus halted on our way to place on record a few anecdotes connected with this in- 
 teresting spot, we will proceed on our march over Drumcairn, through Drumsill and Allis- 
 tragh, taking the rear of Mr. Bond's house and front of Mr. Addy's premises, avoiding the 
 present line of road. Moving onwards the traveller soon finds himself on the " Hole Stone 
 Hill " so called from a large stone with a hole in it. This memorial of the past seems to 
 have been the object of much veneration by the people in the neighbourhood, as it is care- 
 fully preserved and paved around with small stones for several feet. 
 
 From this point we advance in a direct line to Bagenall's Bridge, where, as I have stated, 
 Sir Henry Bagenall and the British army were completely subdued by the great O'Neill. 
 
 After leaving Bagenall's Bridge, where several bullets were found, the road runs on in a 
 direct line to Blackwatertown by one branch, and by another now unused, to Benburb. If I am 
 well informed and the authority is authentic there were about twenty years ago two ca- 
 noes of large dimensions found in the bed of the river at Blackwater, where a ferry is 
 supposed to have been constructed. 
 
 Although the battle of Benburb does not properly come under the designation of local 
 topography, I may make it the subject of another paper, as it occurred soon after the ter- 
 rible disaster which the English Government met at the Battle of Ballinaboy. The march 
 of the Royal troops, as described above, admits of much historical speculation ; and as the 
 " Jorney to the Blackwater" could be performed in light marching order, in a good part of 
 a fine day, I again freely offer myself as a travelling companion to any antiquarian student 
 who would wish to go over the ground and "fight the battle o'er again."
 
 THE FOETS OK THE BLA.CKWA.TEB. 89 
 
 THE FORTS ON THE BLACKWATER. 
 
 ORYSON in his account of Hugh, Earl of Tyrone, first mentions the Blackwater 
 as a reserve for the building of Forts in the year 1587. At this time Sir John Perrot, 
 being the Lord Deputy, the O'Neill got the Queen's Letters Patent under the great 
 seal of England for the Earldom of Tyrone. One of the condition of this favour was, that 
 the bounds of Tyrone should be limited, and that one or two places namely, that of 
 Blackwater should be reserved for the building of Forts, and keeping of garrisons thereon. 
 This Fort must have been erected long previous, for Marshall Bagenall, in 1586, writes 
 "Of buildings in the Countie of Ardemache none save the Forte at Blackwater, most 
 needful to be repaired, and better fortified." 
 
 We read, under 1590, that among certain articles signed by O'Neill, he bound himself 
 " that in time of necessity he would sell victuals to the Fort of Blackwater." We also 
 find that this Fort, originally built by the English, upon the passage to Dungannon, was 
 taken by O'Neill, when he subsequently became a rebel. The Deputy, Lord Burgh, 
 retook it in 1597, and placed English soldiers in it under Captain Thomas Williams, as 
 Governor. 
 
 The indomitable courage and great valour with which Captain Williams held this Fort in 
 1598 may be imagined, after reading the following extract from the "State Papers of 
 Queen Elisabeth:" 
 
 " Williams, though his small force was half famished, and sickness was amongst them, 
 refused to surrender the Fort. The garrison had eaten their last horse, and were living upon 
 grass that grew upon the bulwarks. O'Neill had surrounded the place on all sides, and 
 swore by his barbarous hand, that as long as he could get a cow from the English Pale, to 
 feed his companions, he would not leave it." 
 
 After the defeat of the English army at the Yellow Ford in the year 1598, the Fort was 
 once more in the hands of the victorious Hugh O'Neill. 
 
 Cucogry O'Cleary, in his life of Hugh Roe O'Donnell, states, that the Fort Portmor was 
 a strong earthen fort, having " fighting towers " with windows and loop holes to fire through, 
 and that the English garrisoned it with 300 select warriors, to check the KINEL OWEN. 
 
 O'Sullivan, in writing of the " Fort of Blackwater," says " Est in ultonia fluvius, qui 
 dicitur Ibernis magnus, sed Anglis Aqua nigra vel quod albus Ibernice fluvius lucidis et 
 puris turbidior fluit, vel quod ipsi Angli nigro et adverse niarte ad ilium signa soepe contule- 
 runt. Ad nocflumen erat CASTELLUM, hujus belli casibus clarum, eodem nomine Anglis nun- 
 cupatum Aqua nigra, sed Ibernis POHTMOB ; hoc est munimentum magnum, estque tribus 
 millibus passuum ultra Ardmacham, Eccleseastici Primatus Ibernits sedem et septem citra 
 Dunganinnam Tironi comitis municipium." Freely translated thus : 
 
 There is in Ulster a river, which, by the Irish is called Great, but by the English Slack- 
 water ; either bacause it flows more turbid than other clear and pure rivers of Ireland, or 
 because the English often engaged at it in black and adverse warfare. On this river there 
 was a. fortress made illustrious by the incidents of this war, designated by the same name 
 Blackwater, by the English, but Portmor by the Irish ; this is a great Fort, and is three 
 miles beyond Ardmach, the See of the Ecclesiastical Primate of Ireland, and seven from 
 Dungannon, the Borough of the Earl of Tyrone. 
 
 In Marshall Bagenall's description of the state of Ulster in the year 1586, we have an ac- 
 count of Gluann Dabhall, i.e., meadow of Dabhall, or the Blackwater afterwards softened 
 to Glenaul, in the Parish of Eglish. 
 
 "Glenawle is a pece of Country, which, of right apperteineth to the Archbishop of Arde- 
 mache and his Freeholders, and lieth betweene Ardmache and the Blackwater. There i
 
 90 TOPOGRAPHICAL RESEARCHES. 
 
 in it, nere the ry ver, much under woods and bogges ; but the rest being toward Ardemache, 
 is champion and fertill. Upon the upper parte of this land is the Bridge and FOUTE of the 
 Blackwater built. Turloghe Bresolache holedeth this portion of land from the Earl of Ty- 
 rone, to whom he paieth his Rentes and Services. The said Turlogh with his sonnes, now 
 is able to make 30 horsemen and 80 footmen." 
 
 Anno 1595 Tyrone having heard that supplies of soldiers were coming for Ireland, 
 drew his forces together at the first entrance of the year 1595 in open hostility, suddenly 
 assaulted the Fort at Blackwater, built upon the passage into Tyrone, on the South side ; 
 and taking the same, razed it and broke down the bridge. Yet at this time Tyrone subtly 
 made suit for pardon. Among the conditions of admitting him to the Queen's mercy, 
 were to cause the wearing of English apparel, and that none of his men wore glibbes (or 
 long hair) : that in time of necessity, he should sell victuals to the Fort of Blackwater. 
 
 Tyrone's repentance was not sincere, for after he captured the Fort, early in 1597, he 
 wrote to Henry XII., Earl of Kildare, to induce him to renounce his allegiance to the Crown 
 of England ; but that nobleman peremptorily refused, and manfully accompanied the Lord 
 Deputy on his mission. 
 
 About the beginning of June, 1595, the Lord Deputy and the Lord General drew their 
 forces towards Armagh, and now Tyrone and other rebels had sent letters of submission to 
 them both. The Commissioners judged some of their positions equal, others they referred 
 to the Queen's pleasure. But when on the Queen's part, they propounded to the rebels, 
 some articles to be performed by them, they were grown so insolent, as judging them un- 
 equal, the conference was broken off, with a few days truce granted on both sides, when 
 the Queen, for sparing of blood, had resolved to give them any reasonable conditions. 
 
 This truce ended, the Lord Deputy and the Lord General, about the 18th of July, drew 
 their forces to Armagh, with such terror to the rebels, as Tyrone left the Fort of Black- 
 water, fired the town of Dungannon, and pulled down his house there, burnt all villages and 
 betook himself to the woods. They proclaimed Tyrone traitor in his own country, and 
 leaving a guard to the church of Armagh, they, for want of victuals returned to Dublin, 
 and by the way, placed a garrison in Monaghan. 
 
 In the following year Sir John Norreys, Lord General ; Sir George Bourcher, Master of 
 the Ordnance, and Sir Geoffrey Fenton, Her Majesty's Secretary for Ireland, were commis- 
 sioned to treat again with Tyrone, who had sought pardon, and acknowledged under his 
 hand her Majesty's mercy therein extended to him, and confessed offences and breaches of 
 the articles he had signed. The correspondence which ensued between the Commissioners 
 and Tyrone, proved that the latter was only requiring time for the completion of some works 
 which we had in hand. Upon the 10th of April, 1597, the Commissioners again pressed 
 him by letters not to slack his own greatest good by delays. 
 
 Tyrone, on the 17th of April, sent his reasons for not meeting them, and justified himself 
 for relapsing into disloyalty. At this time all the North of Ireland was in rebellion, except 
 seven Castles, with their towns and villages, all but one lying towards the sea namely, 
 Newry, Kerrickfergus, Carlingford, Greencastle, Armagh, Dundrum, and Old Fleet. 
 
 In 1597 the Lord Deputy (Lord Bourgh), to give lustre and ominous presage to his 
 Government, drew his forces towards Tyrone. The Irish, in a fastness near Armagh (so 
 they call strait passages in woods, where, to the natural strength of the place, is added, 
 the art of interlacing the low boughs and casting the bodies of the trees across the way), 
 opposed the passage of the English, who made their way with their swords, and found that 
 the Irish resolutely assaulted, would easly give ground. Then the Lord Deputy assaulted 
 the Fort at Blackwater, whence the Earl at his first entering into rebellion, had by force 
 expelled the English, as carefully as he would have driven poison from his heart. This 
 Fort he soon took, and repairing the same, put a company of English soldiers into it to 
 guard it. He then passed over the river on 20th July, in order to erect a Fort on the other
 
 THE FOBTS ON THE BLACKWATEB. 91 
 
 bank. But whilst the lord Deputy, with his whole army, were rendering thanks to God 
 for this great success, the rebels showed themselves out of the thick woods near adjoining 
 on the north side of the Fort, so as the prayers were interrupted by calling to arms. The 
 English entered skirmish, and prevailed against them, driving them to fly into the thick- 
 est of their dens. 
 
 The Lord Deputy then left the new Fort, well guarded and provided with provisions 
 to the charge of Captain Thomas Williams, and withdrew the forces towards the pale. 
 
 O'Neill and his people, who occupied the adjacent forest, rested neither night nor day 
 but watched every opportunity of taking this Fort by stratagem or assault, by wreaking his 
 vengeance on the garrison. 
 
 On a certain day he attacked our soldiers, but 30 of his men were slain, and he effected 
 nothing against the Fort. When the Lord Justice received intelligence that his warders 
 were harassed in this manner, and that they were in want of provisions, he mustered a nu- 
 merous army to place provisions and all other necessaries in the Fort. Having arrived in 
 Armagh with his army, he went, with the cavalry about him, along the public road, some 
 distance before his foot-soldiers and companies, with the expectation of meeting some of 
 O'Neill's people in an unprotected position. When he came near the Abhainn Mhor 
 (Blackwater), he fell in with a troop of horse and a body of infantry of the O'Neill's peo- 
 ple. A fierce conflict, and spiteful engagement ensued between them, and many men and 
 horses were lost by the Lord Justice in that sharp battle. When the foot-soldiers had come 
 up with the Lord Justice, he advanced to the fort, and some say that he was never well 
 from that day forth. 
 
 On the next day they left provisions and warders in the fort, and then prepared to return 
 back, but went no further than Armagh that night. O'Neill kept up a constant fire and 
 attack upon the Lord Justice's camp during the night, by which the chief leader of the 
 army and several others besides were slain. From thence they proceeded to Newry, and 
 he died of the wounds which he had received between Armagh and the new fort. 
 
 The Earl of Kildare, on whom the command of the army devolved, drove back the as- 
 sailants, but was also wounded, and twice thrown from his horse ; and his two foster 
 brothers sons of O'Connor Faly, were slain, while assisting him to re-mount. He was so 
 
 frieved by their death that he left the army broken spirited, and as he was on his journey 
 ome, he was obliged to rest at Drogheda, where he died from grief and fever, resulting 
 from his wound, on 30th September, 1597. 
 
 The great defeat of Sir Henry Bagenall at the Yellow Ford, caused the Blackwater Fort 
 to be given over to Tyrone. The appointment of Lord Mountjoy, however, to the office of 
 Lord Deputy of Ireland, added much strength to the English arms, so much so, that 
 O'Neill with his troops was obliged to return from Lough Foyle, hasten to Dungannon, 
 and marching on with the hope of arresting Mountjoy's progress, he razed the old Fort of 
 the Blackwater, burned Armagh, and distributed his men in the fastness of Lough Lurkin, 
 i.e., Lurgan, near Silver Bridge, parish of Creggan, where, with great industry, he threw up 
 entrenchments, and constructed rude fortifications along a line of three miles in extent. On 
 4th June, in the following year, the Lord Deputy preceeded towards Tyrone, and after 
 having rebuilt and garrisoned the Fort of Blackwater, he drew off his army, and returned to 
 Armagh, where he received despatches from the Court of England. 
 
 Lord Mountjoy embarked 23rd February, 1599, and landed the next day in Ireland, where 
 he shewed himself the best soldier that Kingdom had seen for many years, because he found 
 out the true way of making war with the Irish ; for, being well supplied with necessaries from 
 England, he plainly paw that if he could attack them at a time when they wanted all conven- 
 iences to keep the field, he should meet with very little or no resistance, and therefore he 
 supplied his frontier garrisons with men and provisions ; and they, by their frequent excursions, 
 did such execution on the persons and estates of the Irish, that by one Winter's war he reduced 
 them to the necessity of eating one another. (Cox, Ireland).
 
 92 TOPOGBA1U11CAL EESEA.KCI1ES. 
 
 THE NEW FORT. 
 
 12th July, 1601, the army marched in the morning to Armagh, and there resting 
 some hours, marched again after dinner a mile and a half beyond Armagh, and there 
 upon an hill encamped. 
 
 The following day, the Lord Deputy with the army, rose from the former camp, and 
 marched one mile and a half down hill on this side (namely the south side) of Blackwater, 
 where he made a stand, Tyrone, and his horse and foot, shewing themselves out of a wood, 
 beyond a meadow, on the other side of the river, and that with trumpets, and divers 
 colours (some won at the old defeat of the English in those parts), and with some drums, 
 rather for a bragging ostentation than otherwise, since they, fighting like thieves upon dan- 
 gerous passages, used not to appear in such warlike manner. All the night the rebels out of 
 the trenches shot at our men, while they were busy in working. On the 14th day, very 
 early in the morning, upon our discharging our great pieces, the rebels quitted their 
 trenches, basely running into the woods, and our 300 men passing the river, under Captn. 
 Thomas Williams, possessed the trenches and the old ruined fort, with the plain in which 
 it lay, the wood being almost musket shot distance, whither the rebels had fled. 
 
 Presently the Lord Deputy sent one regiment to lie beyond the Blackwater, upon a hill, 
 where his lordship had made choice to build a NEW FORT. 
 
 The 15th day his lordship, with a troop of horse, and 400 foot, drew towards Tyrone's 
 wood, and viewed the places in the sight of the rebels who ran away with their cows. On 
 the 16th, the Lord Deputy drew out a regiment of Irish, commanded by Sir Christo St. 
 Lawrence, and passing the Blackwater, marched to Benburb, the old house of Shane 
 O'Neill lying on the left hand of our camp, at the entrance of great woods. 
 
 These two last days, continues Moryson, our pioneers had been busied in fortifying and 
 building a NEW POET at Blackwater, not far distant from the old Fort, demolished by the 
 rebels, and for some days following, his lordship specially intended the furtherance and 
 finishing of this work, so as many soldiers were extraordinarily hired to work therein as 
 pioneers. 
 
 The remainder of the year was occupied chiefly in providing the Fort with provisions ; at 
 the same time, Thomas Williams was appointed the Governor. 
 
 On 20th August, the Lord Deputy took the field, and encamped in the middle way be- 
 tween the Newry and Armagh, and thence his lordship resolved to spoil all the country of 
 Tyrone, and to banish all the inhabitants from thence, enjoyning such of them as would 
 become subjects, to live on the south side of Blackwater, so that if Tyrone returned, he 
 should find nothing in it but the Queen's garrisons. 
 
 9th September his lordship marched back with his army, divided all the waste land (on 
 the south side of Blackwater), towards the Newry, and came to the Newry, llth September, 
 bringing with him into the Pale, fourteen companies of Foot, and one hundred Horse. 
 
 The letter, which the Lord Deputy at this critical period, forwarded to the Lords in 
 England, clearly proves that the O'Neill was worsted. " We have spoiled, and mean to 
 spoil their corn, and in respect of the garrisons, and of the Blackwater, their creaghts can 
 hardly return, but they will be still at our command. If they should prove false, we have 
 good bridles upon them, and at any time their followers, upon -leave to dwell in Tyrone, 
 will easly forsake them. These followers seem to desire nothing more than to hold their 
 laud off the Queen, without any dependancy upon the O'Neill's." 
 
 Tyrone was also well aware of his position, and that he was in the hands of his enemy. In 
 his letter of submission, dated 12th November, 1602, he says: "Yet I am weary of the 
 course I hold, and do much repent me of the same, most humbly, and with penitent heart,
 
 CHABLEMONT FOET ON THE BLACKWATEB. 93 
 
 desiring, and wishing to be reconciled to my Prince, and to be received to her Majesty's 
 mercy, whom, I am right sorry I have so much offended and provoked, and yet I know 
 that her Majesty's mercy is greater than mine offences. * * * I will, from henceforth, 
 both renounce all other Princes for her, and serve her Highness the residue of my life, 
 humbly requesting, even of your honour, now that you have brought me so low, to remem- 
 ber I am a Nobleman, and to take compassion on me." * * * 
 
 12th November, 1602. Q , ., , . 
 
 subscribed HUGH TTEONE. 
 
 The submission of Tyrone, together with the erections of the Forts of Charlemont and 
 Mountjoy, at this time rendered the further maintainance of the Forts of Blackwater un- 
 necessary. Of these strongholds, at Blackwater, very little or nothing remain at the pre- 
 sent day, and few, indeed, even of those who have spent long lives in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood, know anything either of these old buildings or their history. 
 
 Opposite to the town of Blackwater, about 150 yards down the banks on the Tyrone side, 
 leading to Moy and Charlemont are some vestiges of a Fort, on the site of which Felix Daly 
 now resides. 
 
 At the time of the erection of this Fort the forces in garrison were 
 
 Foot. Horse. 
 
 Carrickfergus, 850. 115. Sir A. Chichester. 
 
 Lecale, 300. Sir R. Morrison. 
 
 Newry, 450. 50. Sir F. Stafford. 
 
 Mountnorris, 600. 50. Sir S. Bagenall. 
 
 Armagh, 800. 125. Sir H. Danvers. 
 
 Blackwater, 350. Captain Williams. 
 
 CHARLEMONT FORT ON THE BLACKWATER. 
 
 tHE Fort of Charlemont, which was built in the month of June, 1602, was situated on 
 the north bank of the Blackwater, about five miles eastward of Blackwater town. 
 When the structure was completed, Lord Mountjoy (Charles Blount) named it 
 CHABLEMONT from his own Christian name, and placed in it a garrison of 150 men, under 
 the command of Captain Toby Caulfield, whose decendants, the Earls of Charlemont, adopted 
 the name of this place as their title. The Earl of Mountalexander was appointed Governor 
 of Charlemont, by Patent, dated 8th October, on the decease of Earl Conway, who had pre- 
 viously held this position. This Fort was a very strong and important place in those days 
 when the country was full of woods and passages that were difficult, because it commanded 
 a pass over the Blackwater in the great northern road. 
 
 In the year 1603, after the reduction of Ireland, there was left at Charlemont Fort, Sir 
 Toby Caulfield with 150 foot. 
 
 In the Irish rebellion of 1641, Sir Phelim O'Neill, eager to distinguish himself as the 
 leader of the Roman Catholic league in the North, commenced his wicked and barbarous ca- 
 reer by a base and treacherous breach of hospitality. 
 
 Lord Caulfield, a brave and hospitable nobleman, resided in the castle of Charlemont as 
 Governor of that Fort, and lived in the most unsuspecting confidence with his Irish neigh- 
 bours. On the 22nd day of October, the eve of the day fixed for the General Insurrection, 
 the Ulster Chieftain invited himself to sup with Lord Caulfield and was received with every 
 mark of friendship. Under different pretensions, a considerable number of the O'Neill's 
 followers had accompanied him to Charlemont, and in the middle of their hospitable enter- 
 tainment, at a preconcerted signal from the chief, they seized and bound Lord Caulfield, 
 whom they afterwards brutally murdered at Kinnaird (Caledon), with his family, made the 
 garrison prisoners, and plundered the Castle.
 
 94 TOPOGRAPHICAL RESEABCHES. 
 
 That wicked chieftain, subsequently retiring before the English forces, made Charlemont 
 Castle his head-quarters for a short time. Owen O'Niall, expecting to be beseiged here, 
 strengthened the defences ; and when the Scottish General, Monroe, attempted to surprise it 
 he was repulsed with loss, but the Castle was at length captured by Sir Charles Coote. 
 In 1665, it was sold to Charles II. for 3,500, since which time it has been vested in the 
 Crown. 
 
 Charlemont was the Ordnance depot for the North of Ireland, and the head-quarters of 
 the Royal Artillery for the district of Ulster. Formerly it had a military Governor, but on 
 the death of General Sir John Doyle, Bart., in 1835, the office was abolished as being a sine- 
 cure. The barracks, which were occupied by two companies of the Royal Artillery, accom- 
 modated 5 officers, 151 non-commissioned officers and privates, and 79 horses, with an 
 hospital attached for 22 patients. 
 
 Cox, the historian, in giving a description of a naval battle which occurred in 1642 on 
 Lough Neagh, mentions this Fort "Sir John Clotworthy's regiment built a Fort at 
 Toome, and thereby got a convenience to pass the river Bann at pleasure, and to make in- 
 cursions as often as he pleased into the County of Londonderry. 
 
 To revenge this, the Irish garrison at Charlemont built some boats, with which they 
 sailed down the Blackwater into Lough Neagh and preyed and plundered all the borders 
 thereof." 
 
 Harris's account of the Fort of Charlemont is very interesting. On page 263, Anno 1690, 
 we read 
 
 " It was a strong Castle, erected in the year 1602, by Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy, 
 Deputy of Ireland, as a curb on the Earl of Tyrone, whose chief mansion house, with a 
 strong Fort, was at Dungannon. It stands on a narrow angle of ground, formed by the 
 confluence of the river Callan, with the Blackwater on the East side, in the County of 
 Ardmagh. Under the shelter of this Fort there grew up a town, which is now a Corpora- 
 tion. The place was strong by nature, being bounded on the East and South by huge im- 
 passible bogs ; and on the North and West by the river Blackwater, which is here 36 feet 
 broad, and 16 feet deep, the banks whereof were, for the most part, secured by quaggy mea- 
 dows and marshes ; insomuch that it was accessible only by two ways, one to the North, 
 where the ground is firm, and the other to the West, where it may be approached, though 
 not without difficulty, the Irish having taken pains to make those two passes defensible by 
 a small number. The fortifications about it were palisadoed ; a dry ditch and counter-scarp 
 within which was a double rampart, and still more inward a thick stone wall, and regular 
 flankers and bastions, a drawbridge well fortified, and within all, the magazines, a guard- 
 house, and a large square tower. It was defended by a strong garrison, under the com- 
 mand of Teigh O'Regan, an able old soldier, whom King James II. soon after Knighted 
 for his defence of the place. Harris and Leland informs us that on being summoned to 
 surrender, the willy General replied, that " the old knave, Schomberg, shall not have this 
 castle." In a foot note, Harris states that Tindal, in his continuation of "Rapin's History 
 of England," deceived by other writers, places this Fort in a wrong situation, namely, on a 
 piece of ground in the middle of the Bay of Carrickfergus, which a small attention to the 
 Map of Ireland would have enabled him to rectify. 
 
 Story, in writing of the " Relief put into Charlemont," dated 2nd May, 1690, says : 
 "Lieutenant-Colonel Mackmehon, with about 400 men, ammunition, and some small 
 quantities of provisions, got intb Charlemont in the night, but our French and other regi- 
 ments posted thereabouts, watched him so narrowly, that though he made two or three at- 
 tempts, yet he could not get out again. And the second week in May, several English, a 
 Brandenburg, and three Dutch Regiments landed. By which time also, all our recruits 
 were completed and the Regiment clothed ; so that we had now an excellent army all 
 overjoyed with the assurance that his Majesty, William III., in person designed to make
 
 CHARLEMOXT FORT ON THE BLACKWATEE. 95 
 
 the campaign in Ireland. A part of our army also, began to take the field, and encamp 
 round Charlemont: cannon and mortars were sent up that way too (on Legar Hill); in 
 order to force old Teague O' Regan, the Governor, from his nest, if he would not quit it 
 otherways ; but their provisions being spent, and no hopes of relief appearing, on the 12th 
 May, the Governor (Teague), desired a parley, and after some time it was agreed, that his 
 Garrison should march out with their arms and baggage, which they did, on the 14th, being 
 about 800, (besides 200 women and children). Duke Schomberg, when he saw so many fe- 
 males, said, that "Love rather than policy prevailed in Irish garrisons." The famished 
 soldiers as they moved along, were seen, according to Harris, devouring pieces of dried 
 hides, with the hair on ; but Schomberg ordered a loaf to each of them from the stores at 
 Armagh, and entertained the officers with hospitable attention. Four companies of Colonel 
 Babington's Regiment took possession of the place. We found 17 pieces of cannon, one 
 large mortar, 83 barrels of powder, with some fire-arms, and other useful materials in the 
 fortress. 
 
 Charlemont and Hoy may be said now to form one town, being merely separated by the 
 Blackwater the former being on the Armagh, and the latter on the Tyrone side of the river. 
 
 In the year 1859 Lord Charlemont purchased the Castle and its appurtenances from the 
 Crown. The latter was levelled to the ground and the materials sold by public auction. 
 The Castle, however, remains to mark the site where this important fortress stood. 
 
 Near Charlemont may be found some traces of a fortification, at " Legar Hill," (from 
 which Duke Schomberg bombarded the town,) and a Danish Rath. 
 
 The silver signet ring, with the impress of the bloody hand, and initials T. O., (Turlough 
 Lynoch O'Neill) was found, many years ago near Charlemont. 
 
 The characteristic fame of "Charlemont Garrison" and the "Royal Artillery" is hu- 
 jrously celebrated in rustic verse, by the Author of the " Colleen Bawn." It is not strictly 
 
 moro 
 hexameter. 
 
 THE ROYAL ARTILLEREE. 
 
 " Charlemount's a party place, the month before July, 
 
 A bridge across the Blackwater connects it with the Moy ; 
 
 The ships advancin in full sail, 'tis beautiful to see, 
 
 But what linds most charms unto this place, is the R'TAL ARTILLBREE. 
 
 On the first Friday of the month, as they go to the fair, 
 
 To see the pnrty girls that always do stand there ; 
 
 They bring them in and treat them and use them tenderlec, 
 
 For they're the boys that fears no noise, the R'TAL ABTILLBREE. 
 
 Now to finish, to conclude, and for to make an end, 
 
 Heres a health unto the officers, likewise unto the men, 
 
 And should it ever happen, they go to face the enemy, 
 
 Och ! they're the boys that fears no noise the R'YAL AKTILLERBK."
 
 96 TOPOGRAPHICAL EESEAECHES. 
 
 MOUNT JOY FORT ON LOUGH SIDNEY. 
 ANNO DOMINO : 1602. 
 
 the townland of Magheralamfield Barony of Dungannon middle near Belleville, not 
 far from Stewartstown, County Tyrone, stands the romantic and imposing ruins of 
 MOUNTJOT CASTLE. It is situate on the S. West side of " Lough Sidney, about two 
 miles and a half on the Tyrone side. SIDNEY was a name given to Loch N-Eathac, or Lough 
 Neagh, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, from Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of Ireland. 
 The erection of this old stronghold was cotemporary with the building of Charlemont Fort, 
 and its history is illustrated but scantily and almost ignored by the annalists of that busy 
 period. 
 
 Moryson's " Itinerary " supplies the most important information, from which we learn 
 that, the Lord Deputy, Mountjoy, so oftened mentioned, as the Modern Castellator of Ireland 
 in the English interest, sent Sir Richard Moryson from Dungannon with five hundred foot 
 to meet Sir Arthur Chichester, who came with his forces from Carrickfergus and was to pass 
 Lough Sidney, and land within a few miles of Dungannon, where they being met, did ac- 
 cording to the Lord Deputies direction, begin to raise a Fort. In the meantime the Lord 
 Deputy having utterly banished all Tirone's partakers out of those parts, marched five miles 
 from Dungannon to Lough Sidney, where Sir Arthur Chichester lay with his forces, and his 
 Lordship encamped there, till he made the fort defensible to contain above 1000 foot, and 
 100 horse, which were to be victualled from Carrickfergus, by the way of the said Lough. 
 The Fort of his Lordship's Barony, he called MOUNTJOT, and made Sir Benjamin Berry, 
 Governor of the same for the present service, which being done, the command of the Fort 
 was left to Captain Francis Roe. Likewise for the present service Sir Arthur Chichester 
 commanded in chief the forces to be left there, which he might draw out upon all occasions 
 of service as out of all other garrisons in those parts towards Carrickfergus. After the building 
 of Mountjoy Fort, the Lord Deputy proposed to follow Tyrone through his greatest fastness 
 till he should utterly ruin him or drive him that way to the sea. (Moryson part ii. Lib. 
 3, pp. 218223.) 
 
 After Hugh O'Neill had submitted and received pardon from Queen Elizabeth, we find 
 that certain lands were excepted and reserved out of O'Neill's property for the Forts Mount- 
 joy and Charlemont : " and likewise excepting and reserving 300 acres of land to be laid 
 to the Forte of Mountjoy, and 300 more to the Forte of Charlemont during her Majesty's 
 pleasure, to hold any garrisons in the said Forts." 
 
 To the reservation of these lands, O'Neill gave his full consent, (p. 280.) 
 
 On 20th August, 1602, the Lord Deputy took the field, and encamped between Newry 
 and Armagh, and understanding that Tyrone was in Fermanagh, he marched over the bridge 
 near Fort-Mountjoy, and staid five days near Tullahogue, and broke the chair of stone 
 whereon the O'Neills used to be inaugurated, and destroyed the country. 
 
 8th September, 1602, Lord Mountjoy directed Sir Arthur Chichester to lie at Mountjoy 
 garrison, clearing the County of Tyrone of all inhabitants, and to spoil all the corn which 
 he could not preserve for the garrison, and to deface all the Islands formerly taken. 
 
 In " Sir Henry Docwray's narration," edited by Dr. O'Donovan, we find mention made of 
 this Fort. " The next day Sir Arthur Chichester came over at Lough Sidney, and landed 
 1,000 men at that place, where he presentlie erected a Forte, which had afterwards the name 
 given it of Mountjoy, and my lord having gained his passage before and erected another at
 
 bo 
 tht 
 1 
 
 Artl 
 were 
 Capta 
 
 and many o 
 the Irish, an 
 Docwray and 
 many of the . 
 to mercy, and r 
 Tyrone himself 
 terms; hut MOUL 
 life and fortunes ti 
 habit and posture fc 
 the most humble ten. 
 him over captive with 
 
 After the death of Qi 
 newed his protection in .. 
 
 "Ulster to settle his affairs. 
 
 pede of a great number of t 
 
 great mystery. The whole \. 
 
 Swilly and embarked at the Vi. 
 
 Irish, Rath Maelain, i.e. Maelan . 
 
 sisting, we may say, of a single strt 
 
 gall. The Castle of this place was the 
 From this Fort tho distinguished fug 
 
 ceeded through France to Brussels. Tt 
 
 died at Rome, July 16, Anno, 1616, ol 
 
 misfortunes. 
 "Although he died " (say the Annals of li . 
 
 ancestors, it was a token that God was pleast 
 
 no worse (i.e. than Armagh) burial plaoe, nt
 
 our 
 t one 
 Lord 
 i writ- 
 ill the 
 I have 
 3 'h preju- 
 jbserving 
 an first to 
 ned in the 
 
 .nd learning, 
 j that he was 
 
 -f as well as his 
 citizens pleaded 
 Two Ecclesias- 
 jiselves before the 
 /aterford could not 
 White, one of these 
 , positions ; and when 
 .g the book in his tent, 
 jhis surprisal White was 
 jugh Lord Mount] oy lis- 
 j. the Fathers, yet he threa- 
 ding John to pieces, to level 
 ds were effectual: he was im- 
 /enounced all foreign jurisdiction. 
 
 trustworthy documents, that in 1641, 
 1 chiefs," were the strongholds of CHA.B- 
 
 seven days after he first appeared in this 
 i very first, upon Charlemont, where the 
 
 .onguadh, Queen of Ireland, about three centuries, be- 
 .ill's of Tyrone had their family tomb.
 
 SIDNEY CASTLE ON DEEEYWABEAGH ISLAND. 99 
 
 Lord Caulfield lay with his foot company, the Forts of Dungannon and MOUNTJOY, as that 
 in his letter written to Father Patrick O'Donnell, his confessor, bearing date from MOUNT- 
 JOY, 30th October, he was able to brag of a great many victories. 
 
 Dr. Robert Maxwell, in his account of the Rebellion of 1641, writes " That the fewest 
 which can be supposed to have perished at Portadown bridge must needs be about one 
 thousand, besides as many more drowned betwixt that bridge and the great lough of 
 Mountjoy." 
 
 SIDNEY CASTLE ON DERRYWARRAGH ISLAND. 
 
 PEOBABLY BUILT BY MOUNTJOY. 
 
 On the extreme south of Lough Neagh there may be seen the wreck of an old OASTLE ad- 
 joining " Derrywarragh," of which there appears no record in history. Referring, however, 
 to the maps of the escheated estates, published Anno. 1809 Speed, 1676, Morden Ger- 
 ard Mercator, 1636 and Bleau, 1640, the site or ground on which this ruin appears, is 
 surrounded with water, and described as "Sidney Island," but by the Ordnance Survey 
 maps as " Derrywarragh Island !" We may then safely call the castle after the name of 
 the island on which it stood ignoring the modern appellation. 
 
 At the present time, the space between Maghera Chapel-yard or the mainland and the 
 island is filled up with sand or soil, consequent on drainage and the lowering of the Bann 
 river at or near Coleraine. This improvement has had the beneficial effect of reducing the 
 depth of the water in Lough Neagh above 10 feet. 
 
 Some years ago there was made, what is called, a new cut or river, which flows between 
 the " island " and the mainland, for the convenience of small vessels entering the Black- 
 water from the Lough. 
 
 Lough Sydney was a name given to Loch NeEathac or Lough Neagh in the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth, from Sir Henry Sydney, Lord Deputy of Ireland. 
 
 PEINTED BY J. ll'WATTEBS, JUN., ENaLISa-STBEET, AEMAQ1I.
 
 96 TOPOGRAPHICAL BESEARCHE8. 
 
 MOUNT JOY FORT ON LOUGH SIDNEY. 
 ANNO DOMINO : 1602. 
 
 <i 
 
 fN the townland of Magheralamfield Barony of Dungannon middle near Belleville, not 
 far from Stewartstown, County Tyrone, stands the romantic and imposing ruins of 
 MOUNTJOY CASTLE. It is situate on the S. West side of " Lough Sidney, about two 
 miles and a half on the Tyrone side. SIDNEY was a name given to Loch N-Eatliac, or Lough 
 Neagh, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, from Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Deputy of Irelan'' 
 The erection of this old stronghold was cotemporary with the building of Charlemont FOJ 
 and its history is illustrated but scantily and almost ignored by the annalists of that bu>3, 
 period. *nd 
 
 Moryson's " Itinerary " supplies the most important information, from which we l< lour 
 that, the Lord Deputy, Mountjoy, so oftened mentioned, as the Modern Castellator of Ire* one 
 in the English interest, sent Sir Richard Moryson from Dungannon with five hundred ^ord 
 to meet Sir Arthur Chichester, who came with his forces from Carrickfergus and was 1\ wit- 
 Lough Sidney, and land within a few miles of Dungannon, where they being met, * ^ 
 cording to the Lord Deputies direction, begin to raise a Fort. In the meantime ' * ^ ave 
 Deputy having utterly banished all Tirone's partakers out of those parts, marched 
 from Dungannon to Lough Sidney, where Sir Arthur Chichester lay with his force 
 Lordship encamped there, till he made the fort defensible to contain above 1000 an , . . 
 100 horse, which were to be victualled from Carrickfergus, by the way of the s; 116 " m ^ Qe 
 The Fort of his Lordship's Barony, he called MOUNTJOT, and made Sir Benja- 
 Governor of the same for the present service, which being done, the command ' n ^ learning, 
 was left to Captain Francis Roe. Likewise for the present service Sir Arthi* tliat " e was 
 commanded in chief the forces to be left there, which he might draw out upo 
 of service as out of all other garrisons in those parts towards Carrickfergus. Af as well as his 
 of Mountjoy Fort, the Lord Deputy proposed to foUow Tyrone through his c r ^ lzen P lea ?ed 
 till he should utterly ruin him or drive him that way to the sea. (Mory J wo -kcclesias- 
 3, pp. 218223.) ^selves before the 
 
 A . IT u rvxT -n v j t, -LL j i -i j c r\ /aterford could not 
 Alter Hugh O Neill had submitted and received pardon irom Quee- W u,-f n f f j 
 
 j 1 1. J 1 1 lit t i oyn-T '1U J TV IlltC, Ollt) Ul l/llCDC 
 
 that certain lands were excepted and reserved out of O Neill s property pos ^ions and when 
 
 joy and Charlemont : " and likewise excepting and reserving 300 arj ^ lg k 00 k \ a ^{ s ^ en t 
 
 to the Forte of Mountjoy, and 300 more to the Forte of Charlemo'[ s surpr isal White was' 
 
 pleasure, to hold any garrisons in the said Forts." JU J gh L J d Mountjoy lis- 
 
 To the reservation of these lands, O'Neill gave his full consent the Fathers, yet he threa- 
 
 On 20th August, 1602, the Lord Deputy took the field, a-^ng John to pieces, to level 
 
 and Armagh, and understanding that Tyrone was in Fermanrds were effectual : he was im- 
 
 near Fort-Mountjoy, and staid five days near Tullaho^enounced all foreign jurisdiction. 
 
 whereon the O'Neills used to be inaugurated, and destrr 
 
 8th September, 1602, Lord Mountjoy directed ff 
 garrison, clearing the County of Tyrone of all inh 1 
 he could not preserve for the garrison, and to defa( geven dayg aftep he first appeared in this 
 
 In "Sir Henry Docwray's narration," edited by, verv fi rs f upon Charlemont, where the 
 this Fort. "The next day Sir Arthur Chichest 
 
 1,000 men at that place, where he presentlie ere ; 
 
 <nven it of Mountjoy, and my lord having gaionguadh, Queen of Ireland, about three centuries, be- 
 
 all's of Tyrone had their family tomb.
 
 SIDNEY CA8TLE ON DEBBYWABBAGH ISLAND. 99 
 
 Lord Caulfield lay with his foot company, the Forts of Dungannon and MOUNTJOY, as that 
 in his letter written to Father Patrick O'Donnell, his confessor, bearing date from MOUNT- 
 JOY, 30th October, he was able to brag of a great many victories. 
 
 Dr. Robert Maxwell, in his account of the Rebellion of 1641, writes " That the fewest 
 which can be supposed to have perished at Portadown bridge must needs be about one 
 thousand, besides as many more drowned betwixt that bridge and the great lough of 
 Mountjoy." 
 
 SIDNEY CASTLE ON DERRYWARRAGH ISLAND. 
 
 PfiOBABLY BUILT BY MOUNTJOY. 
 
 On the extreme south of Lough Neagh there may be seen the wreck of an old CASTLE ad- 
 joining " Derrywarragh," of which there appears no record in history. Referring, however, 
 to the maps of the escheated estates, published Anno. 1809 Speed, 1676, Morden Ger- 
 ard Mercator, 1636 and Bleau, 1640, the site or ground on which this ruin appears, is 
 surrounded with water, and described as "Sidney Island," but by the Ordnance Survey 
 maps as "Derrywarragh Island!" We may then safely call the castle after the name of 
 the island on which it stood ignoring the modern appellation. 
 
 At the present time, the space between Maghera Chapel-yard or the mainland and the 
 island is filled up with sand or soil, consequent on drainage and the lowering of the Bann 
 river at or near Coleraine. This improvement has had the beneficial effect of reducing the 
 depth of the water in Lough Neagh above 10 feet. 
 
 Some years ago there was made, what is called, a new cut or river, which flows between 
 the "island" and the mainland, for the convenience of small vessels entering the Black- 
 water from the Lough. 
 
 Lough Sydney was a name given to Loch NeEathac or Lough Neagh in the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth, from Sir Henry Sydney, Lord Deputy of Ireland. 
 
 FBINTED BY J. tt'WATTE&B, JUN., ENQLISH-STBELT, ABMAQII.
 
 1158 00298
 
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