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 Coolies Sawins, Planks
 
 ^i)t :Jfar ISast 
 
 AND THE NEW AMERICA 
 
 J Picturesque and Historic Account of these Lands and Peoples 
 
 By G. Waldo Browne 
 
 Author of " Paradise of the Pacific,'' " Pearl of the Orient" etc. 
 with the following Special Articles 
 
 Cftina 
 
 By Hon. John D. Long, Ex-Secretary of the Navy 
 
 3fapan 
 
 By His Excellency Kogoro Takahira, the fapanese 
 Ambassador at IVashington 
 
 flatuait 
 
 By Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, U. S. Senator Jrom 
 
 Massachusetts 
 
 %\)t Pjtlipplnes 
 
 By General Joseph B. Wheeler 
 
 Cutja 
 
 By General Leonard Wood, Ex-Governor-General 
 
 of Cuba 
 
 53orto il^ico 
 
 By Hon.Chas. H. /Kll^'H^ Ex-Governor of Porto Rico 
 
 
 Illustrated 
 
 WITH 
 
 NFARLY T 
 
 WELVE 
 
 Hundred 
 
 Photog 
 
 RAVURES. 
 
 C 
 
 OLORKI) I'LATES, 
 
 Engravings 
 
 y 
 
 Maps 
 
 
 
 
 Volume ^: 
 
 
 
 
 
 THE R. H. WHITTEN COMPANY 
 
 new YORK AND LOS ANGELES
 
 Copyright, 1901 
 By DANA ESTES & COMPANY 
 
 Wu rights riiitri'td
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 \ 
 
 ^ 
 
 Fnlt, more thau one lumdred years, the United States of America was confined 
 til the American continent. Through the travail and bloody sweat from 
 Lexington, in 1775, to the surrender at Yorktown, in 17S1, the thirteen colonies were 
 engaged in the struggle for existence, for life, foi- indei)eudence. The war of 1812 
 was necessary to demonstrate the right of the United States to a niembersliip among 
 the brotherhood of nations. The crucial test of all came a half-century later, when 
 the house divided against itself had yet to prov^ that it should not fall. Such proof 
 was given with a grandeur, with a majestj-, and with a completeness of triumph and 
 accomplishment that placed our country among the very foremost in the van of civilisa- 
 tion, of progress, of humanity, and all that tends to make a people truly great. 
 
 \\'lieii the Constitution was adopted, the settled portions of the United States 
 fringed the Atlantic coast from Maine to Florida. The western boundary was the 
 Mississipjii Kiver. Beyond the Father of Waters stretched an expan.se of mountain, 
 river, and prairie, far exceeding in* area the region which constituted the original 
 United States. Then followed the acquisition of Florida, Louisiana Territory, and, 
 later, the countries obtained liy the conijuest of Mexico, and, finally, the immense 
 ])urcha.se of Alaska from Russia, our traditional friend. 
 
 Thus far, it will be noted, our acquisition of territory was restricted to the conti- 
 nent itself. It is a fact, of which perhaps not all are aware, that the present popula- 
 tion of the United States can be expanded twelve-fold before its density will equal 
 that of some of the most prosperous countries of Europe. But for the Spanish- 
 American war, it is not conceivable that the out-reaching of the United States, or the 
 '•earth hunger," as it has been aptljf termed, would have e.xtended beyond either of 
 the enclosing oceans. To our north lies Canada, so immovably chained to the mother 
 country that not a link c;in he severed; south of the Kio (irande our tropical neigh- 
 bour has acquired a prosperity and power, under the admirable rule of its President, 
 which ensure an indefinite continuance of the greatness that has lifted it to a plane 
 never before attained, and scarcely dreamed of by its most patriotic sons. 
 
 Never was there a more holy war Ihau that in which the United States engaged 
 for the liberation of Cuba. Fi)r more than a century her people had l>een ground into 
 the very dust by the brutality of the mo.st merciless nation in the world. Spain, 
 from the very hour that her explorers first set foot on American soil, proved a curse 
 
 535430
 
 i^ INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and a blight, and the inherent ferocity of the Spaniard quickh' shrivelled into idiocy. 
 When the wit of a child would have taught the groping visitors to cultivate the good- 
 will of the simple-minded natives, who were eager to show their friendship, and to 
 provide plentiful food for the starving intruders, the latter, iu pure wantonness, 
 murdered, massacred, and tortured to the utmost limit of human ingenuity. Balboa, 
 in the early years of the sixteenth centurj-, was guided across the isthmus by a devoted 
 baud of Indians who willingly acted as slaves for him and his eompanious, and risked 
 their lives to secure the indispensable food for them. Then, when Balboa climbed 
 the-rockj- height on the western shore and looked out over the limitless expanse of the 
 South Sea, and was thrilled and overcome by the thought that he was the first white 
 man that had gazed ujjon the vastest ocean of the globe, he sank upon his knees, 
 thanked God foi- his mercies, and then, like true Spaniards, he and his men turned 
 about and cut and slashed the Indians to death. 
 
 The horrible crime of Balboa was repeated by all the Spanish explorers, without 
 exception, who came after him. The story is one long, ghastly record of cruelty, 
 treachery, crime, blood, and idiocy. ' Providential indeed was it for the future of our 
 country that the interest of Spain was diverted to the far south, and that the United 
 States was colonised by the English, the Duti-h, the Swedes, and the French, — peoples 
 who were sturdy, honest, enterprising, and who believed to a practical extent in the 
 Golden Rule. Had it been otherwise, and had Spain been our mother, the history of 
 Cuba, with all its terrifying atrocities, miseries, and failures, would have been our 
 own. 
 
 The first conflict between the young Giant of the West and the decaying monarchy 
 of Spain could have but one issue. The Titan blows of the resistless hammer crushed 
 the paste jewel to powder, and the war, lasting but a few months, humbled the pride 
 of the decrepit kingdom deeper eveu than when the lusty sons of Albiou and the 
 storms of a wrathful heaven sent the Grand Armada to the bottom of the ocean. The 
 forces of Castile were driven out of Cuba by the c\'clouic heroism of the American 
 regulars and volunteers; Admiral Cervera's fleet was riddled like so much pasteboard; 
 the campaign in Porto Eico resembled an opera bouff^; and Admiral Dewey, sailing 
 into 3Ianila Bay on that memorable May morning in 1898, .smote the opposing fleet 
 and forts with his unerring cannon, as if they were so many children's toj-s, set up to 
 be demolished by those to whom the task was the merest sport itself. 
 
 If Spain had acted the zany for centuries, the time now came when her own exist- 
 ence forbade her to play it longer. The Treaty of Paris followed, and by its terms 
 the United States became sovereign over the Pliili])pines, Porto Eico, Guam (the 
 largest of the Ladrone Islands), and subsequently acquired the ownership of the island 
 and harbour of the Samoan island of Tutuila. Thus was ushered iu the era of ex- 
 pansion, and our country gained a prestige and momentous interest in the Far East 
 which give to the present work a value of the highest importance. 
 
 The first step of our country, however, toward its entrance into the ranks of Powers
 
 INTRODUCTION. v 
 
 whose interests touch both hemis])heres, was taken during the progress of the Spanish- 
 American war by the annexation of Hawaii. In answer to a petition from the islands, 
 Congress passed an act, on July 7, 1898, to annex them, and the formal ceremony of 
 raising the United States flag took place on the I'ith of the following August. This 
 group was formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, and includes eight inhabited and 
 four uninhabited islands, which are situated about one-third the distance between San 
 Francisco and Sydney, Australia. They are the most important of all the Pacific 
 islands, and their acquisition by the United States was not ouly valuable, but a neces- 
 sity, in order to prevent their falling into the possession of some other power which, 
 in case of war, would have used them witli disastrous effect to our interests. These 
 islands were fir.st opened to the world by American whalemen, and, with the decline of 
 that industry and the increase of general commerce, they became recruiting ports to 
 the merclmnt marine. Americans own nearly all the fertile area, and the larger part 
 of tlieir commerce is with our own country. Hawaii is one of the greatest sugar- 
 producing countries in the world. 
 
 Although the transition of these islands from theii- independent form of govern- 
 ment to a possession of the United States was attended at first with some friction, yet 
 on the whole the change was effected quietly, and the government to-day is of the 
 most orderly and praiseworthy character. 
 
 As evidence of the prosperity of the i.slands under the new regime, the exports from 
 the United States to Hawaii nearly doubled in the year following annexation. In the 
 year ending June 80, 1900, our trade with the islands amounted to $36,000,000, of 
 which about two-thirds was sugar imported from the island ports. Among the other 
 products of the islands are rice, fruits and nuts, cotfee, hides and skins, and copra or 
 dried cocoanut. The goods imported by the islands include wheat flour and all kiuds 
 of manufactured articles. 
 
 The natives of Hawaii are called Kanakas, and are rapidly dying off, but their 
 places are more than filled by a new population. There was danger at one time of the 
 islands being overrun by Chinese coolies, but they are now excluded. Emigrants are 
 mainly composed of Portuguese, Americans, and Japanese, and the increased produc- 
 tiveness of the islands is due to their industry and enterprise. 
 
 Few countries have a more interesting history than Hawaii. Leaving the vague, 
 misty traditions running backward for centurie.s, it is shown in the following pages 
 that the discovery of this group of islands was accidentally made by the famous 
 Eugli.sh navigator, Captain Cook, who, in the month of January, 1778, siglited the 
 island of Oahu, followed a few days later by the discovery of other islands. Captain 
 Cook, however, did not see Hawaii until the following year, when, sad to say. like 
 many another pioneer, his life paid the foifeit of his great achievement A singular 
 fact, having no real connection with the incidents just narrated, is that the widow of 
 Captain Cook survived liis death for more than half a century. 
 
 Since Hawaii is now an integral part of the great Repiiblic, all relating thereto is
 
 yi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 of the highest interest and value. The author of "The Far East" sets forth in 
 accurate, well-chosen, and grapliic language the fullest information regarding the 
 topography of the islands, all that is known of their history, the numerous productions, 
 the facilities, the picturesque people, their social and civil condition, the cities, towns, 
 and settlements, and, indeed, all that the student or immigrant can possibly wish to 
 know. 
 
 The Treaty of Paris made the island of Porto Rico an Americau possession. It 
 ranks fourth in size among the West Indies, has a length of ninety-five miles from 
 east to west, and about thirty-five from north to south. Since its population is esti- 
 mated at nearly a million, it will be seen that it is one of the most thickly settled 
 regions in the world. San Juan, on the northern coast, is the capital, while Ponce, in 
 the south, is the largest port. It exports a fine quality of coffee, sugar, and tobacco, 
 and imports manufactured goods, flour, and fish. Porto Rico, in 1900, e.Kported goods 
 to the United States to the amount of $1,350,000, its imports being almost three times 
 as great. 
 
 Another possession acquired by the United States through the Spanish-American 
 war was Guam, the largest of the Ladrone Islands. Its area, however, is so insignifi- 
 cant that its importance is due to its being a convenient telegraph and coaling station 
 on the voyage from Hawaii to the Philippines. 
 
 The island and harbour Tutuila, Samoa, passed by treaty of Great Britain and 
 Germany into the hands of the United States in 1899. The island has only a few 
 thousand inhabitants, and possesses little commercial importance, but it has one of the 
 best harbours of the Pacific, and gives to us a fine coaling station on the route from 
 San Francisco to Australia. 
 
 The greatest and most valuable possession secured to the United States by the 
 Treaty of Paris was the immense group of islands known as the Philippines. These 
 are more than a thousand in number, with a land area exceeding a hundred thousand 
 square miles, or greater than the combined extent of the six New England States and 
 the State of New York. From north to south, they extend fully a thousand miles, 
 with a breadth of six hundred from east to west. Naturally, many of the islets are 
 iminhabited. The principal islands are twelve in number. Luzon, the most north- 
 erly, is as large as the State of Ohio, and contains the city of Manila, the metropolis of 
 the Philippines, while Mindanao, the most southerly island, is of slightly less extent. 
 The chief prodticts of these islands are tobacco, sugar, hemp, and coffee. Tobacco has 
 been grown for more than a century, and the export of cigars to Europe amounts to a 
 hundred millions a year. The Manila hemp is famous throughout the world. It is 
 produced from the fibre of a species of banana, and is also used as paper stock. Our 
 exports to the Philippines were only $127,000 in 1898, but two years later they had 
 increased to $2,500,000, while the imports rose from $3,830,000 to $5,800,000. 
 
 The natural wealth of the.se islands is prodigious. Stretching through fifteen 
 degrees of latitude, with mountains of considerable elevation, with numerous streams
 
 INTRODUCTION. vii 
 
 and fertile valleA's, these productions display the choicest richness of the torrid and 
 temperate zones. In the depths of the vast forests are found the most valuable species 
 of woods, such as cedar, ebony, ironwood, mahogany, logwood, sapan-wood, gum-trees, 
 and scores of other kinds of woods, unknown on the American continent. The jjanare 
 and maiave are two woods which have been exposed to the action of water for 
 hundreds of years, without showing the slightest deterioration. Probably the most 
 attractive and useful tree is the bamboo, which seems to grow everywhere, and sup- 
 plies an endless variety of needs. It is the chief material in the construction of 
 bridges, houses, and even churches, while from it are made baskets, mats, cliairs, 
 vessels for liquids, measures for grain, musical instruments, household utensils, 
 vehicle.s, rafts to float on the rivers, and head-gear. Indeed, there seems to be no 
 vegetable production so calculated to meet the general wants of man. The tender 
 shoots of the bamboo are considered a delicacy by the inhabitants, and the horses and 
 cattle are fond of the leaves. One variety of the cane contains a stone said to be a 
 sovereign remedy for many of the ills of the flesh, while still another kind produces a 
 gum which is a specific for inflamed eyes. 
 
 Tliough it would seem, from what has been stated, that the bamboo is the most 
 valuable native tree of the Pliilippiiie.s, yet the inhabitants gain a larger income from 
 the cocoanut-palm, which is universally cultivated. The demand of the foreign market 
 for the fruit is never fully met, and there is no part of the tree itself which is not 
 utilised. The framework of the native dwellings is made from the smooth trunk, the 
 roof from its leaves, and the chairs and tables from its wood. The fibre of the tree 
 furnishes the native with the mats on which he sleeps; its nuts form his meat; the 
 shells his household utensils, while the value of the "milk iu the cocoanut" is prover- 
 bial. The sap yields an oil which, in a cool climate, becomes a solid, and is nuade into 
 soap and candles. It may be said that, every hut and house in the interior is illumi- 
 nated by means of coeoanut-oil. Moreover, the delicate flowering stalk affords a 
 delicious beverage, known as the tuba, and the most comfortable of raiments is made 
 from its fine, fibrous particles. 
 
 Another highly useful plant is a species of bush rope, which sometimes attains 
 the astonishing length of one thousand feet. It may be described as a natural rope or 
 cord, with no end to its diversified uses. 
 
 The mango is the most im])ortant fruit of the Archipelago. Its meat is creamy 
 and delicious, and the tree grows to a great size. Two, and sometimes three, pickings 
 are obtained every year. There are over fifty varieties of bananas. The pajniir yields 
 a fruit resembling in shape and flavour the melon ; guavas, tamarinds, pineapples, 
 lemons, huge orange.s, the custard-apple, citron, breadfruit, strawberry, and other 
 products peculiar to the tropics flourisli in great luxuriance. A remarkable fruit 
 found in the western i.slands is the dtirien, — a dainty, delicious production which, 
 however, bears only once in twenty years. Investigations made since our acquisition 
 of the Philippines have brought to light numerous plants and herbs of great medicinal
 
 ^.;ii INTHODrt'TION. 
 
 value. A striking proof of the amazing fertility is aiforded by the common sight, 
 seen on the same plot of land, of the planting, cultivating, and harvesting, going on in 
 alternation. In the words of the author, " From the great storehouse of natural, 
 treasures of Luzon, the largest and richest of these pearls of the Pacific, to the 
 hundreds of smaller gem.s, all resplendent in a vegetation which clothes not only the 
 plains and tlie lowlands, but the mountains and the seashore, with a verdure of many 
 hues and never-fading gloss, the florist finds his paradise, and the botanist his 
 wonderland." 
 
 Although the Philippine group for centuries has poured treasures into the lap of 
 Spain that are beyond estimate, yet it would be unjust to overlook the many serious 
 drawbacks which must be encountered by every settler among the islands. Our sol- 
 diers, who have spent weary months in the attempt to crush the rebellion led by 
 Aguinaldo, tell of the seasons described as " six months of mud, six months of dust, 
 six months of everything." The northern islands are swept by the Chinese typhoons, 
 which in one season de.stroyed four tliousand houses and three hundred people. Earth- 
 quakes are so numerous that multitudes of lives are lost every year from that cause. 
 In 1863, one-half of the city of Manila was tumbled into ruins, and moi'e than three 
 thousand of its inhabitants were killed or injured. Tidal waves have been equally 
 destructive to life and property. Fever, malaria, and other tropical diseases are 
 common, and the heat is especially oppressive to unacclimated persons, women and 
 children being particularly subject to the perils of the climate. The experience of our 
 soldiers in Cuba and in the Philippines, where sanitary conditions have been bad, has 
 been atbended with many fatalities. Such men, from natural carelessnes.s, are certain 
 to suffer severely. Still, the Philippines are not as unhealthful as would be supposed 
 from the foregoing statements. When American thrift and enterprise shall have had 
 time in which to introduce modern systems of sanitation, the improvement in health 
 will be marked and decisive. 
 
 Aninud life in the Philippines is less ])roniinent than in many other countries of 
 the same latitude. The wildcat, wild boar, buffalo, hog, deer, and monkey abound in 
 the forests. The reptiles and venomous insects are a pest, the most prominent being 
 frog,s, lizards, snakes, centipedes, gigantic spiders, tarantula.s, hornets, beetles, ants 
 horned toads, and enormous bats. Some of the bats have a .spread of six feet, with 
 bodies as large as cats. One of the deadliest of all serpents is the 7na7)apo,- whose, bite 
 is as fatal as that of the East Indian cobra. It is occasionally encountered in the rice 
 fields, but, fortunately, it is quite rare. Crocodiles of huge size abound in the fresh 
 water streams, and a species of cobra is sometimes seen in Samor and Mindanao. Ants 
 and mosquitoes form an almost intolerable pest. The white ants work in the dark, 
 and destroy the hardest pieces of furniture. It is said that the whole framework of a 
 house has been known to collapse from the ravages of these insects. Every few years, 
 swarms containing numberless millions of locusts sweep the country bare of all the 
 crops, with the single exception of the hemp plantations, which are exempt. Tlie only
 
 IXTKODUCTION. ix 
 
 ■n-ay by which the natives even up uiiitters with the locusts is to eat them, and they are 
 considered sucli a delicacy that, in many instances, the parish priest has prayed for 
 their coming. The Philijipines contain more than six hundred species of birds. Some 
 of these have wonderfully brilliant plumage but among them all there is rot one 
 sweet singer. The game birds iucliule the snipe, pheasant, pigeons, ducks, woodcocks, 
 and various waterfowls. 
 
 It is impossible, in an introduction of this character, to do more than outline in 
 the vaguest and most imperfect manner the wealth of subjects treated in the pages 
 that follow. As we have already intimated, the acquirement of Porto Rico, Hawaii, a 
 portion of the Ladrones, and the immense Archipelago in the Far East, gives an inter- 
 est and value to all the knowledge obtainable regarding them. Their history, their 
 natural productions and capabilities, their inhabitants, their attractions, their advan- 
 tages and disadvantages as a field for American enterprise, are of the deepest moment 
 to the citizens of the United States. That the field thus opened to our commei-ce, 
 trade, and industry is of vast and far-reaching importance is self-evident. To meet 
 the widespread demand for full and accurate information regarding our pos.sessions in 
 the Far East, these volumes are now ottered to the American public. 
 
 Edward S. Ellis.
 
 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, 
 
 BV 
 
 MAJ.-GEN. JOSEPH WHEELER. 
 
 Whex the heart of the American people was touched by the cruelty and terrors 
 which were being enacted in the island of Cuba, and, added to this, came the distress 
 caused by the harrowing tidings of the destruction of the battle-ship 3Iaine with the 
 instant death of "267 of her gallant crew, but one thought pervaded the American mind, 
 and a demand came from every town and hamlet, that this great republic do its duty 
 to suffering humanity, and strike a decisive blow in defence of national honour. 
 
 The glorious victories which followed tlie American flag on land and sea, and, almost 
 at the same time, in both hemispheres, resulting in the treaty of peace which was con- 
 cluded at Paris, placed upon our country the responsibilities with which we are now 
 confronted. 
 
 Xew conditions therefore are presented with which it is the duty of the American 
 republic to deal. 
 
 Four years ago the exercise of .sovereign power beyond our Pacific shores had not 
 been a matter of consideration by our government. 
 
 During that short period, tlie logic of events has given us islands with harbours 
 which place the great Paoiiic Ocean, with its wonderfid commercial advantages, very 
 largely under our control. 
 
 In a speech in Boston a short time before, his death, the great naturalist, Professor 
 Agassiz, referred to a work by Humboldt as de.scriptive but not comparative; and he 
 explained, with marvellous clearness, that in order to be of value, a statement of facts 
 or a description urust be compared with .something with which we are familiar. 
 
 It is equally impurtant, in considering that policy wliich will be best for the wel- 
 fare of our own people and also of those with whose destiny we have so much to do, 
 that we keep in mind the fact that our wondrous growth and increased power during 
 the last half century have wholly changed our relations with the other nations of 
 the earth. 
 
 We all revere the traditions of our country and have profcuind respect for the 
 expressions of the great statesmen whose wi.sdom gave us this splendid government 
 under which we live. We must, however, recognise the vastly changed condition.s, 
 and the rules which they laid down for our guidance should be construed in the light 
 of the present day. Many policies which would liave been good a century, or even 
 half a century ago, would be fatal to our country's welfare to-day.
 
 sii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 During that period, we have changed from one of the weakest to the most powei-ful 
 nation ou the gh)be. 
 
 Piftj- years ago, the monarchs who governed what were then the leading nations of 
 the earth establislied diplomatic relations with scarcely a thought of the young 
 republic on the western shore of the Atlantic. Now, the powerful nations of the 
 world seek our friendship, and none venture any important diplomacy without tirst 
 learning whether it will be acceptable to this great republic. 
 
 The words of wi.sdom and advice from Washington, Jefferson, and Jackson were 
 uttered when we were essentiallj^ an agricultural people. The question of our manu- 
 factures being used in foreign lands had hardly been considered, and in those earlj- 
 days but few of our farm products were sent beyond our shores. Now, in the products 
 of our farms and factories, we far excel the greatest commercial nations. 
 
 Our production of coal, steel, pig iron, finished iron, iron ore, copper, cotton, wheat, 
 corn, and petroleum far exceeds the production of those staple articles bj^ any other 
 nation. 
 
 Half the popidation of the world is in what we call the Orient. Their products are 
 very largely articles which the world needs and which can onl}- there be produced, or, 
 at least, can better be produced in those localities than elsewhere. This gives this vast 
 population a great purchasing power, and the leading nations of the world are exercis- 
 ing every possible influence to establish with them favourable commercial relations. 
 
 Producing, as we do, half the staple products of the earth, while we have but one- 
 twentieth of the population, these markets are more essential to the United States than 
 to any other nation. 
 
 The needs of all people increase as they advance in civilisation. Railroads and 
 locomotives will be needed by the people of the Orient in numbers far beyond our 
 present conception. Electric and gas plants for lighting cities and houses will be 
 demanded. Water-works, sanitary, telegraphic, and telephonic equipments, agricultural 
 implements, sewing-machines, tj'pewriters, and a thousand articles which we mauufac^ 
 ture, these people will purchase. 
 
 Probably the greatest advantage to our country will be the market we should secure 
 for our cotton goods. We now produce eighty per cent, of the raw cotton which finds 
 its way to the woi-ld's markets. It brings us in its raw state an annual return of 
 about three hundred millions of dollars. When transformed into the cheapest cotton 
 cloth, its value is enhanced neailv four fold, and when manufactured into thread and 
 fine goods, its increased value is ten, twenty, and even thirty fold. 
 
 Since our countrv came into existence as an independent sovereignty, dii)loniatic 
 complications have frequently arisen, a solution of which has. in all respects, been 
 creditable to ns as a nation, and no American can doubt for a moment that the problem 
 now confronting us will be solved in a wav that will advance the cause of civilisation 
 and work out results not onlv to our advantage, but also to the material betterment of 
 all who are brought under American control and influence.
 
 INTRODUCTION. xiii 
 
 If Cuba IS called the "Gem of the Antilles," surely the beautiful Philippines should 
 be called the •• Geui of the Oneut." 
 
 As Cuba stands the gateway to the Gulf of Mexico, so do the Philippines, with their 
 maguificent harbours, supply a gateway to the people and marvellous resources of 
 China and the Indies. 
 
 From north to south, their extent is equal to the di.stance from Lake Erie to the 
 Gulf (if Me.Kico. 
 
 Their surface includes the low fertile lands where rice, sugar, and other tropical 
 products are cultivateil ; the table-lands where we find a climate and products similar 
 to tho.se of the temperate zone ; also high mountains, which are, as yet, unexplored. 
 Virgin forests of t!ie most valuable timber are extensive, and nearly all minerals are 
 more or less abundant. 
 
 The people are surprisingly intelligent, considering that they have suffered nearly 
 four centuries of Spani.sh misrule and oppression. 
 
 They are very devoted to their religion, and it is my firm belief that, under a wi.se, 
 humane, and just government, most of them will become industrious, loyal Americans. 
 
 Joseph Wheeler.
 
 PREFATORY NOTE. 
 
 In the preparatiou of a work of this kind, which requires the consultation of so 
 many authorities, it is difficult to specify one's indebtedness in all cases. The author 
 desires to express his obligations in that part of his work which treats of the Hawaiian 
 and Philippine Islands to Daggett's "Legends of Hawaii," (Carpenter's "America in 
 Hawaii," Musick's " Our New Possession," " Hawaii's Story by Hawaii's Queen," 
 Clare's "Hawaii Nei," Foreman's "History of the Philippines," Worcester's "The 
 Philippine Islands and Their People," Lala's "The Philippine Islands," and other 
 books, while he has had frequent recourse to the Eeports of the United States Gov- 
 ernment. Those works most often consulted upon Japan have been Murray's " Story 
 of Japan," Griffis's "The ^likado's Empire," Eiordan's "Sunrise Stories," Lowell's 
 "Soul of the Far East," and Baxter's "In Bamboo Lands." The author has been 
 materially assisted in the part devoted to China by the works of Colquhoun, Thomson, 
 Boulger, Lord Charles Beresford, ]\Irs. Bishop, Miss Scidmore, and several others, 
 aside from many miscellaneous papers and documents. 
 
 For aid in illustrating the work, the publishers wish to express their thanks to 
 Hon. Gorham D. Gilman, who generously allowed them such selections as they desired 
 from his extensive collections of photographs on Hawaii, pro'oably the largest in the 
 coimtry, and to Professor Fryer, of the University of California, for similar courtesies 
 in relation to the illustrations of China.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 VOLl'MK I 
 
 HAWAII 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 I. Captain Couk's Discovery 
 
 II. The Island Wonderland 
 
 III. .V PuTrHEscjiE People 
 
 IV. The Xapoleo.v of the Pacific 
 V. .\xciENT Hawaiian Relioion . 
 
 y\. The La>t Defenders of the Old F 
 
 VII. MiSSIONAKV AVoRK 
 
 \'III. The Hawaiian >Iai;n.\ Charta 
 
 IX. lilSE OF THE HePI-RLIC 
 
 X. IxDisTKiAL Progress 
 
 XI. The Japanese and Contract Laboi 
 
 XII. The Chinese in Paradise 
 
 XIII. .\nne.\atii).v .... 
 
 XIV. Vistas of Oahi; 
 
 X\'. (iRIJI MOLOK.XI .... 
 
 XVI. PuTlRESQl"E MaII 
 
 XVII. The Island Builder 
 
 IIa\ 
 
 PACE 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 36 
 55 
 64 
 
 77 
 
 86 
 
 (to 
 
 115 
 
 lL'6 
 
 134 
 145 
 
 1.56 
 167 
 173 
 183 
 
 Till-: PHILIPPIXES. 
 
 I. The Pearls of the Orie.vt 
 
 II. The People of the Philippines 
 
 III. The Ani.mal Kingdom 
 
 IV. Spanish Discovekv and Do.minion 
 
 103 
 •208 
 220 
 227 
 
 XV
 
 FULL PAGE ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 Cooi.iES Sawing Planks. Photnijravure 
 Xatives I'uF.PAitiXG Pt>i, Hawaii. Cdlmircfl 
 
 I'l.VKAPPLK (IaUHK.X. OaHT 
 
 FoMACiF. AND Kl.oWKKS l)K THE XKiUT-BLOO 
 
 Native Stkaw Hit. HAW.\ir. Coloured 
 Kii'Aiiri.f Lanmxi;. Mavi 
 
 LaXPIXC. THItOlHil! THE Sri'.K . 
 CoCOAXUT IsLAxn ..... 
 
 Lei Womex, Hawaii. CoUnireil 
 Xati-rai. Akcii at ()x.\mea, H.\WAir . 
 SriiE HoAT AT Waikiki. CoUluriil 
 View nkak the Needles, Iao \'ai.ley 
 Kaai'exa Pool ..... 
 
 Waiaha Falls, ox Kauai . 
 
 N.wal I!o\v. Honolulu Hakbour 
 
 Haxapepk Falls, Kauai 
 
 A Hawaiian Hul.a Danceh. Coin urn! 
 
 Fehn and Flower Growiit. Von axo Ko.\i 
 
 Natives Makixg Poi .... 
 
 (iKAss House axd Lulu 
 
 Diamond He-ad, from the Puxch-howl 
 
 Diamond Head ..... 
 
 The Punch -howl ..... 
 
 Hawaiian Childrex. Coloured 
 
 Royal Palace ..... 
 
 Hawaiian Girls' Style of Dressixg . 
 KicE Fields, Moaxai.ua N'alley . 
 Waiaxae Coffee Plaxtatiox, Oaiiu . 
 .Iai'axesk Plaxtatiox Barber. Coloured 
 Grass House axd Natives . 
 Makee Islaxd ...... 
 
 Rice Cultivatiox ..... 
 
 Avenue of Palms ..... 
 
 Barking Sands ..... 
 
 Palms at Waikiki ..... 
 
 Shrimp Fisherman, Hawaii. Coloured 
 Old Track to the Volcano from Hilo 
 Oaiiu Prison 
 
 Cer 
 
 Factih 
 
 Frontispiece 
 Pafjc 1 
 
 •J 
 
 10 
 16 
 20 
 24 
 27 
 32 
 :!() 
 4(1 
 44 
 4.S 
 
 .00 
 57 
 64 
 66 
 "2 
 76 
 .so 
 s.s 
 
 !I2 
 !Mi 
 111! 
 112 
 120 
 12.S 
 l:;2 
 Dili 
 1411 
 114 
 1D< 
 l.VJ 
 
 l.-)t; 
 Did 
 Di.s 
 176 
 
 svii
 
 XVUl 
 
 FULL PAGE ENGKAVINGS. 
 
 Crater of Haleakala, Maui 
 
 Layson Island Birds ....... 
 
 Suspension Bridge Connecting Old and New Manila 
 Water Front at Manila . . • . ' . 
 Native Milk Peddlers in the Suburbs of Manila 
 Santa Cruz Plaza, Manila ...... 
 
 Native Theatre, Taguig ...... 
 
 
 
 184 
 
 
 t 
 
 192 
 
 
 
 200 
 
 
 
 208 
 
 
 
 216 
 
 
 
 221 
 
 
 
 230 
 
 COLOURED MAPS. 
 
 Map of Hawaii 
 
 Map of thk Philippines 
 
 193
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Pacific Mail Steamer Australia 
 
 Hawaiian Chief 
 
 Captain Cook 
 
 Hawaiian Coat of Arms 
 
 Scene on Maui . 
 
 Ancient Pagan Temi-le, Hawa 
 
 CocoANUT Island, Coral Keefs 
 
 MuRDKit OF Captain Cook 
 
 Monument to Captain Cook 
 
 Shore near Hilo 
 
 IIanapepe Falls, Kauai 
 
 Waikaui Falls, Maui 
 
 Honolulu Harbour from Govern 
 
 MENT Building 
 Highest Point in the Crater o 
 
 KlLAlEA 
 
 Ohia, Hawaiian Apple 
 
 OlIEI.O ..... 
 
 Taro Patch 
 
 Cocoanut Grove 
 
 Hawaiian Chief of Olden Time 
 
 WITH Feather Helmet 
 A Young Girl 
 Outrigger Bo.\ts 
 War Canoe, CJlden Ti.me . 
 Native E}o.\ts 
 Interior of Native House 
 LiLiuoKALANi, 1883, IIeir .Vpparent 
 Native Grass House 
 Riding the Surf 
 ViF.w near Hilo 
 Palm (irove 
 
 Statue of Kamehameha I 
 llii.o Bay .... 
 Nawiliwili, Kauai 
 Iao Valley 
 WuNANo Bluff . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 1 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 U 
 
 15 
 
 11) 
 
 17 
 18 
 19 
 20 
 •21 
 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 ■10 
 41 
 
 page 
 Riding Bullocks . . . .42 
 
 Hanalei River ..... 43 
 
 The Needles, Iao Valley . . 44 
 
 Cascades ...... 45 
 
 Scene on Volcano Road ... 40 
 
 Sulphur Banks, Volcano ... 47 
 
 Honolulu from Punchbowl . . 50 
 
 Fort Street, Honolulu ... 51 
 
 Around Kaena Point . . . 53 
 
 Hula, or Dancing -girls . . .54 
 
 Breadfruit 55 
 
 Ieie Vine 50 
 
 Fern Growth 59 
 
 Umbrella Tree, Cocoanut Island . 00 
 
 Wood Scene, Volcano Road . . 01 
 
 IIawaii.\n with Mask . . . 02 
 
 Hula (Jiri.s 04 
 
 Natives Preparing Food . . 05 
 
 Banana Patch 07 
 
 Wine Palm 09 
 
 Bathing Pool, Nuuanu Valley . 70 
 
 Waipio Landing .... 71 
 
 WiLDWooD Tangle on Volcano Road 72 
 On the Road from Hii.o to the 
 
 Volcano ..... 73 
 
 Near the Pali 74 
 
 Series of Cascades . . . .75 
 
 Lauhala, or Screw Palm . . 77 
 
 Lava Lake 78 
 
 View near Hilo .... 80 
 
 Diamond Head 81 
 
 Fern Tree 82 
 
 Mormon Settlement, Lanai . . 83 
 Native Shrimp Catcher ... 84 
 Screw Palm, or Pandanus . . 87 
 Birthplace of Princess Ruth, Ha- 
 waii 88
 
 XX 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Wailua Falls, Kauai 
 
 Datk Palm Avenue, Hospital 
 
 Grounds 
 Mangoes 
 
 Honolulu in 1840 
 Gathering Sugak-cane 
 Honolulu Harbour 
 Valley of Maui 
 Waii'io Vallky . 
 Tako Roots 
 Queen Emma 
 Lunalilo Home . 
 King Kalakaia . 
 Queen Kapiolani 
 Royal Funeral — Kalakaua Lying 
 
 IN State 
 King Kalakaua . 
 Queen Liliuokalani 
 Corridor of Palace 
 U. S. S. Boston at Honolulu 
 Executive Building, Honolulu 
 Queen's Guard and Barracks 
 Station House . 
 Royal Collection of Curios 
 Queen's Bedroom 
 Prince Leleiokoku 
 Private Residence, Hawaii 
 Native Style of Riding . 
 Gathering Sugar-cank 
 Banana Blossom and Fruit 
 G. A. R. Section ix Cemi- 
 
 honolulu 
 Sugar Mill 
 Rice Fields, Hanalei 
 Kindergarten, Former Hom 
 
 Queen Emma 
 Steamers Plying n e t \v e e n 
 
 Islands .... 
 Honolulu Railway Station 
 Japanese Village near Hii.h 
 Jap.^xese, Hawaii 
 Cane Field, Waianae 
 Japanese Houses 
 Japanese Woman 
 Japanese Houses 
 Kukui Trees 
 Public Lii!rahy . 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 
 95 
 
 9(j 
 
 97 
 
 99 
 100 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 
 105 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 109 
 110 
 111 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 110 
 117 
 
 lis 
 
 119 
 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 
 123 
 
 124 
 125 
 127 
 128 
 129 
 130 
 131 
 132 
 133 
 134 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hanalei River and Rice Fields . 135 
 Umbrella Tree, Cocoanut Island . 136 
 Bamboo Tree . . . .137 
 
 NuuANU Street, Honolulu . . 138 
 
 Wild Ginger 139 
 
 A Lanai, or Veranda . . . 140 
 Street in Honolulu . . . .141 
 Bishop Museum . . . . .142 
 Avenue of Palms, Private Garden 143 
 Royal Pal.m Avenue . . . 144 
 
 Nuuanu Avenue .... 145 
 
 Government Buildinc; . . .146 
 President Dole ..... 147 
 Nuuanu Street, Honolulu . . 148 
 Proclamation ok Repiblic, July 4, 
 
 1894 149 
 
 Waikiki Road ALON(i the Beach . 150 
 Bishop Hall, Oaiiu College . . 151 
 Di.\MOND Head ..... 152 
 
 U. S. Cruiser Philadelphi.\ . . 153 
 Hawaiian Feast .... 154 
 
 Merchants' Country Houses . . 156 
 Lava Heap ...... 157 
 
 Y. M. C. A. Building . . . .159 
 
 Waianae . . . . .160 
 
 Queen's H(isi'it.\l . . . .162 
 
 PlUNCKSS KaIULANI IN NATIONAL 
 
 Costume ..... 163 
 
 Lava Pile 164 
 
 Sti;ei:t in Honolulu, Royal Fu- 
 
 NKRAI. PlMlC'ESSION . . . 165 
 
 LANl>IN(i Caiile .... 168 
 
 Akaka Falls, Hii.o, 510 Feet lli(iii 169 
 
 Lava Buttress ..... 171 
 
 Lava Lake . . . . . .172 
 
 Pacific Institute .... 173 
 
 Chasm Opened after Collapse of 
 
 Lava Crist 175 
 
 Silver Plant 176 
 
 Taro Plant 177 
 
 Room ix Vih.cano House . . . 179 
 Volcano House . . . . .180 
 
 The Pali 181 
 
 Crater of Kilauea .... 182 
 
 Princess Kaiiiani .... 183 
 
 Crater Wall, Kilauea . . . 184 
 
 Rainbow Falls, Hilo . . . 185
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTHATIONS. 
 
 Xil 
 
 Lava Flow 
 
 Descent at Lava Lake, Kilalea 
 
 Barking Sands .... 
 
 Ka.mehameha School . 
 
 Xew Road to the Pali 
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 Landsc^te on East Side ok Min 
 danao ..... 
 
 Mail Station ox Bay ok L'niiA.v 
 
 Volcano ok .Vim .... 
 
 Volcano of Mayon, Luzon 
 
 Looking up P.asig Kiver at Pretii 
 Just above Manila 
 
 Native Village, Island ok Negros 
 
 Bamboo Bridoe, Iloilo 
 
 Construction of a PiriLirriNo House 
 
 Bamboo Yard .... 
 
 Native Houses .... 
 
 Village on JIindanao 
 
 General View of Iloilo . 
 
 Manila .Street, Rainy Season. 
 
 Manila .Street. Rainy .Season. 
 
 Types of Malays 
 
 Negritos 
 
 PACK 
 
 ISO 
 187 
 189 
 190 
 191 
 
 193 
 194 
 
 19.T 
 
 190 
 
 197 
 198 
 199 
 200 
 201 
 202 
 203 
 204 
 20.5 
 207 
 20S 
 209 
 
 N.\TivE Warrior from Interior of 
 Mindanao .... 
 
 Philippino Fruit Girl 
 
 A Wealthy Half-caste Philippixi 
 Lady 
 
 Mestizos ..... 
 
 SuLu Prau ..... 
 
 Sult.an ok Sulu Interviewing Eu 
 ROPEAN Visitors ... 
 
 Moham.med, Sultan of Sulu . 
 i Igorrotes ..... 
 I Igorrote Pipes .... 
 
 C'.\rabaos Transporting Army- 
 Stores ..... 
 
 Village on the Island ok Guim.\ra 
 
 Street-cars in !Maml.\ 
 
 Young Wild (Joat 
 
 Calao Bird .... 
 
 Peacock ... 
 
 Village on Mindanao 
 
 River Scene on Mindanao 
 
 Mindanao Warrior . 
 
 Merchant Vessels, Pasig River 
 
 Mouth of River Coihulo, Palawan 
 
 Village of Bahele. Palawan . 
 
 Oldest Church in Manila 
 
 210 
 211 
 
 212 
 213 
 214 
 
 21.> 
 216 
 217 
 218 
 
 221 
 222 
 223 
 224 
 224 
 225 
 227 
 228 
 229 
 230 
 232 
 233 
 234
 
 HAWAII. - 
 
 BY 
 
 HON. HENRY CABOT LODGE, 
 UNITED STATES SENATOR. 
 
 In the year 1893 the Hawaiian question was one of the leading issues of our politics. 
 Mr. Cleveland then undertook to reverse the traditional policy of the United States in 
 regard to the islands, parties divided over the question, the deposed queen found eager 
 partisans, and the successful leaders of the revolt against her were warmly defended 
 and as earnestly attacked. Five years later, in the midst of a war which furnished an 
 argument so conclusive upon the subject that no man could successfully gainsay it, 
 the islands were annexed to the United States. With annexation actually accomplished, 
 the Hawaiian question came to an end, and it was all so natural, and, indeed, so inevi- 
 table, that it now requires an effort to understand how there could ever have been 
 any difference of opinion in regard to it. The islands have come so easily into our 
 system, and so obviously belong there, tliat once ours they have been in a measure for- 
 gotten, and, while the country has been filled with discussion in regard to Porto Eico 
 and the Philippines, Hawaii has dropped out of sight. This is due, of course, to the 
 fact that the islands for more than fifty years had been practically ruled by Americans, 
 and had become thoroughly Americanised by the New England missionaries, who had 
 settled there in the first half of the nineteenth century, and by their descendants. P)Ut 
 it would be most unfortunate if, on account of our familiarity with the islands so 
 closely connected with us for so long a time, and because they have so smoothly and 
 quietly become a part of our system, we should overlook their value and their meaning 
 to us, — past, present, and in the time to come. 
 
 Among the new possessions which have come to us in these last three years, so 
 crowded with great events, none is more important to our future than Hawaii. This 
 seems a very strong statement in view of the almost incalculable importance of the 
 Philippines to our position, both military and commercial, in the East. And yet, 
 although the statement is .strong, it is not overdrawn, and the Philippines themselves 
 have greatly enhanced the value of Hawaii. The Hawaiian Islands are rich, very 
 fertile, capable of producing most valuable crops of sugar, coffee, and bananas, and of 
 sustaining a large and prosperous population. This intrin.sic worth is, however, the 
 least part of their value to us. Look at the map, and their importance, their vital 
 importance, to the United States becomes at once apparent. The largest of the Pacific
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 island groups, Hawaii, lies far away to the north and east of the Polynesian chain of 
 islands, and almost in the centre of the great ocean which stretches from China to 
 California. The master of Hawaii can reach more quickly to more essential points east 
 and west, north and south, than any one else in the Pacific. In Hawaii, also, is Pearl 
 Harbour, one of the two deep-water and naturally sheltered harbours to be found in all 
 the islands, the other being Pago-Pago, in Tutuila, which is also iu our possession, but 
 far inferior iu geographical position to that in Oahu. With moderate improvement 
 Pearl Harbour would shelter a navy, and with comparatively small expenditure can be 
 made impregnable. A foreign nation holding Oahu and Pearl Harbour would be not 
 only a constant menace to America, but in tlie event of war would have an advantage 
 in attacking our Pacific coast which it would be almost impossible to overcome. The 
 mere possession of the islands by the United States is a great protection, and if we 
 fortify them and create a naval station there no enemy would dare to assail the Paciiic 
 coast, with Pearl Harbour, so easily made impregnable, behind them. The strategic im- 
 portance of the islands is, moreover, as obvious commercially as from a military and 
 naval point of view. Hawaii has well been called the " crossroads of the Pacific," and 
 although the shortest route to Japan from San Francisco, sailing on a great circle, is 
 just south of the Aleutian Islands, Honolulu is none the less the central point for the 
 intersection of steamship routes and ocean cables between America, on the one side, 
 and Polynesia, Australia, the Philippines, and Southern China on the other. 
 
 Islands possessing the military and commercial importance which has just been in- 
 dicated deserve to be well known and thoroughly understood by the people who have so 
 lately added them to their domain. Very fortunately it is possible not only to write the 
 history of these islands fully and accurately, but that history is picturesque and inter- 
 esting in a very high degree. Their old name of the Sandwich I.slands, now happily 
 extinguished, carries us back to an English eighteenth century minister who was him- 
 self a remarkably stupid and worthless nobleman, but whose title and office are asso- 
 ciated with some of the most important voyages of discovery made at that period. The 
 death of Captain Cook is indissolubly associated with Hawaii in the tragic ending of a 
 narrative of adventure which has charmed generations of children to a degree second only 
 ito that enjoyed by Robinson Crusoe. Then we meet with Vancouver, and then comes 
 the career of Kamehameha I., a man of real genius, both military and civil, who consoli- 
 dated the islands under one government and founded the monarchy which has endured 
 down to our own time. Next comes the arrival of the American missionaries, the devel- 
 opment of the islands under their influence, and the gradual intertwining of the fate 
 of the islands with that of the United States. From this period we trace the steady 
 growth of the American influence in Hawaii and the seemingly narrow escape of the 
 islands from the domination of European powers. We meet, as we proceed, with the 
 great name of Webster, who warned foreign states of American interest in these 
 islands, and of Marcy preparing to annex them just on the eve of a civil war which 
 drove all policies, but the one desperate determination to save the country, from the
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 hearts and the minds of the people. Then comes the gradual reawakening of interest iu 
 Hawaii, the reciproeitj' treatj' which placed them practically within our control, the 
 Harrison treaty of annexation, and at last the movement which in the shock of another 
 war brought about their final acquisition by this country. The history of Hawaii 
 ought to be read now by all Americans, and the story of the natives and of our own 
 people who went among them so many years ago should become familiar to us all, 
 for it is now one of the most interesting chapters iu the westward march of the 
 United States. 
 
 )4:^,w-7 C^^^yi^-^^jy^ 

 
 }^atives Preparing Pol, Hawaii
 
 PACIFIC MAIL STKAMKU AfSTKAI.IA. 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK S DISCOVERT. 
 
 THE seafarer crossiug the Pacific Ocean under the hnaginary line of 
 the Tropic of Cancer, sailing from Cape St. Lucas, at the southern 
 extreniit}^ of Lower California, due west for over eight thousand 
 miles, or one-third of the distance around the globe, meets with only a 
 solitary spot of laud in all that long water journey. Should he traverse 
 the sea in a slightly northwesterly direction, from Panama to Japan, he 
 would make a trip of equal length and loneliness, passing midway on his 
 voyage the same ocean isle as before. If he should start from San Fran- 
 cisco, bound to Queensland, he would again compass his stupendous passage 
 
 1
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 greeted by the same lonely sentinel of the mighty deep. But this time he 
 would find soon after passing this spot innumerable islands, isles, and coral 
 reefs scattered all along his way. On the north, however, not a speck 
 dots the watery expanse until the polar lands are reached. 
 
 This breakwater of the Central Pacific, which old ocean has tried in 
 vain to swallow for numberless ages, is Kauai, the most northerly of the 
 Hawaiian Islands. Forming a happy resemblance to a huge cornucopia 
 of 360 miles curve from northwest to southeast, between latitude 18° 55' 
 
 and 22° 20' N., and longitude 
 154° 55' and 160° 15' W., this 
 group of islands is the most 
 northerly cluster of the Poly- 
 nesian Archipelago. 
 
 While numbering twelve in 
 all, four of these islands are 
 really nothing but the brown 
 heads of rocky pillars thrust 
 forbiddingly above the surface 
 of the deep, and i he fifth is too 
 small and meagre in its re- 
 sources to afford a population, 
 which leaves the poet's " seven 
 sunny isles of the southern 
 seas." Bearinnino; with the 
 point of this horn of plenty 
 and running southward the list 
 of eight comprises Niihau, 80 square miles in area ; Kauai, 590 miles ; 
 Oahu, 600 miles ; Molokai, 270 miles ; Maui, 760 miles ; Lanai, 150 
 miles ; Kahoolawe, 63 miles ; Hawaii, 4,210 miles in extent. The entire 
 group contains 6.740 square miles, or about the amount of territory of 
 the State of Massachusetts, Hawaii having almost two-thirds of the whole 
 area. 
 
 The written history of the Hawaiian Islands covers a period of less than 
 a century and a quarter, beginning with the discovery of Captain Cook in 
 1778. Running into this from the centuries before there is another story 
 told by the tongue, the traditions of an uncivilised race. Behind these 
 
 HAWAIIAN CIIIKF.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 i 
 
 
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 —
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 vague accounts of warlike deeds and religious mysticisms, there is yet 
 another era portrayed on the scrolls of the silent ages. This takes us 
 back into the misty past thousands of years, — back to a period when 
 all the waters were locked in crystal prisons, and plant and animal life 
 were unknown. The war of the elements ensued ; the ice king retreated 
 before the equatorial god ; the silence of the solitude was broken by the 
 o-rmding and crashing of the glaciers. The white pinnacles of the ice- 
 floes melted away, and in their place of desolation rose the mountains of a 
 productive land ; instead of the 
 icy fields and frozen spikes 
 came fertile valleys, with trees, 
 plants, and flowers ; in place 
 of the bitter cold, the balmy^ 
 climate ; on the scene of life- 
 lessness, a race of human beings. 
 This is the mysterious and awe- 
 inspiring picture of the birth of 
 a world. 
 
 Captain Cook's discovery of 
 this group of islands was an 
 accident. The British govern- 
 ment, pleased with this great 
 navigator's previous voyages 
 of exploration in the then un- 
 known Pacific Ocean, with the 
 counsel and assistance of Lunl 
 Sandwich of the Admiralty, 
 fitted him out for a third trip, placing under his connnand the two ships 
 Jiesolution and Discovery. He sailed from Plymouth, England, Jidy 12, 
 1776, only eight days after the signing of the Declaration of Independ- 
 ence b}' the representatives of the thirteen colonies of America. 
 
 Captain Cook's orders were to revisit the islands of the southern seas, 
 where he had twice wintered, " to disseminate and naturalise" some of the 
 useful animals of Europe in that remote region, and to find a northern 
 passage to the Atlantic Ocean. He cruised around in the Polynesian Archi- 
 pelago for a year and a half, leaving on the different islands those domestic 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 aiiiinals wliich have proved of sucli value to the inhabitants. Then he 
 sailed from the Society Islands on his way to the north. 
 
 On the eighteenth of January, 1778, he sighted the island of Oahu, and, 
 sailing along its southwestern coast, the next day he discovered the islands 
 of Niihau and Kauai. The following morning, January 20th, he anchored 
 at Waimea, on the shore of Kauai, a place noted in the traditions of the 
 natives as having been the battle-ground of ancient kings. 
 
 As the vessels sailed up the coast, the inhabitants of the island began to 
 appear in large groups, alarmed and mj'stified over the arrival of the 
 strange ships. In such numbers did the natives rush to the water's edge, 
 as the first boat started for the shore. Captain Cook ordered a volley of 
 
 shot to be fired over their 
 heads. One of the excited 
 mob was killed, but, as the 
 firing was not continued, the 
 natives received their visitors 
 in a friendly manner. Pres- 
 ents were exchanged, and 
 the newcomers were highly 
 pleased with what they saw. 
 After staying on this island 
 a few days, and laying in 
 a fresh stock of water and 
 provision, the English ships 
 headed away to Niihau, where they remained until February 2d. Believ- 
 ing he had discovered a group of islands. Captain Cook named them for 
 his patron, Lord Sandwich, and set sail for the polar regions, on what he 
 fondly anticipated was his homeward voyage. 
 
 In sight of the beach at Waimea is still pointed out a large, ilat rock, 
 bearing the mark of a broad arrow, claimed to have been made by Captain 
 Cook to designate the place of his first landing. In the village are three 
 other stones with similar markings made by the English conniiandcr for 
 the same purpose. 
 
 His northern voyage proving a disappointment, though he explored the 
 coast, of Alaska, Bering Strait, and the Arctic Ocean until finding his 
 progress stopped l)v the ice-fields. Captain Cook was glad to retin-n to the 
 
 I1AWAII.\N COAT OI' AUMS.
 
 6 THE FAR KAST. 
 
 soutli, where he might spend the approaching winter, to resume his search 
 for the northern passage another summer. 
 
 On the morning of November 26th, he sighted for the first time tlie 
 ishmd of Maui, and he anchored at Wailua. The news of his visit to 
 Kauai seemed to have preceded him here, for he was greeted by a larger 
 crowd than before, that considered him as a god, and liis followers as 
 supernatural beings. His ships were thought to be moving islands, which 
 
 S( HNK liX MAfl. 
 
 could send forth tliunder and liohtnino; at tlie command of their master. 
 Tlie natives showed no signs of hostility. 
 
 After laying off Maui several days, during whicli time he had a brisk 
 trade with the inhabitants, Captain Cook sailed along the coast until, on 
 the thirtieth, he discovered tlie island of Hawaii. Judging this to be 
 larger and of more importance than the others, he decided to make its 
 circuit, which took him seven weeks before he dropped anchor in the 
 ill-fated bav of Kealakekua. He had called at numerous villas^es on his 
 trij), and everywhere had been treated with generosity and loaded with
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 divine honours. Here over a thousand canoes swarmed in the waters 
 around his ships, most of tliem crowded with people, and laden with the 
 richest tributes the land afforded, choice fowls and hogs, fruits and vege- 
 tables of many kinds and rare excellence. In all that vast number not a 
 weapon was to be seen, one and all having come to pay their free and 
 spontaneous worship to the newcomers. 
 
 No sooner had the English connnander and a portion of his crews gone 
 
 ashore, than the natives an- 
 nounced a season of festivi- 
 ties and sacrificial ceremonies 
 to their visitors. Captain 
 Cook was looked upon as the 
 reincarnation of their god 
 Lono, whose return to the 
 earth their high priests had 
 prophesied, and he was es- 
 corted to the heiau or temple 
 built in his honour, while 
 the people and chiefs, even 
 to tlie king, prostrated them- 
 selves before him. 
 
 Cajjtain Cook and his 
 reckless tars quickly caught 
 the spirit of their tempters, 
 and for eighteen days they 
 i-e veiled in the prodigal sim- 
 plicity of their worshippers. 
 There, under the dome of 
 the sleeping Hualalai, on the rich lava beds budded l)y this mighty volcano 
 in the centuries unrecorded, and fringed with tall, sinuous, dark-crested 
 cocoa-palms, half concealing the sea below, unrestrained nature ran riot 
 with itself. 
 
 Then the visitors grew overbearing and independent. The temple of 
 the gods was turned into an observatory ; the consecrated platform was 
 transformed into a sail-loft ; the sacred palisades of the heiau were carried 
 away to be used as fuel to cook the food of these newcomers ! At first 
 
 AXCIEST PAGAN TK.Ml'I.K, MAWAII.
 
 8 THE FAl! EAST. 
 
 amazed, the spectators became indignant. It had been enough that their 
 ricli presents had been reciprocated by a few hatchets and knives, and 
 their magnificent gifts of feather mantles and helmets had been taken 
 witliout thanks. 
 
 Though they prudently remained peaceful, it must have been with 
 secret pleasure that they saw the ships sail away with their visitors on 
 February 4th. 
 
 Tlie joy of the islanders proved short-lived. Uft' Kawaihae the ship 
 
 COCOANUT ISLA.NP. COKAI. ItEEFS. 
 
 Resolution sprung a foremast in buffeting a gale, and Captain Cook 
 returned to his old anchorage to repair the damage. Carpenters were 
 sent ashore to wurk upon the injured mast, when the natives treated them 
 coldly. The king was away, but the priests remained friendly, and the 
 sailors did not hesitate to show their authority, which further incensed 
 the people. Some of them stole a pinnace for its iron fastenings, wliirli 
 so angered Captain Cook tliat he resohed to capture the king, who had 
 returned, and hold him as a hostage until the stolen property had been 
 restored. Protected by a body-guard of his marines, Cook went at once to
 
 I, /yr^ M A c I 
 
 (7*0 fM) ' ■ 
 
 MAm^ll^^ \ 
 
 JEJt-l'K 
 
 % ^ 
 
 
 L,;.^ 
 
 Statute 31IU*. GD.IO -I DesrcB. 
 
 
 > 1 E.* 
 
 ^r' 
 
 WESTERN ISLANDS 
 
 HAWAh 
 
 ON SAME SCALE *S filAIN M»P. 
 
 **' 
 
 .ST.1- 
 
 ,-«•" 
 
 •^ 
 
 r
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 9 
 
 the home of the aged king, who, like his priests, still kept his faith with 
 them, and enticed him to go on board the ship. 
 
 Alread}- the natives had swarmed in the waters abont the vessels, and 
 the officer left in command ordered that a shot be fired to frighten them 
 off. One of the shots took effect in a chief. Meanwhile the chiefs and 
 people on the shore were protesting against the treatment accorded their 
 king. The islanders were now armed with spears and hatchets, and so 
 threatening did the mob become that Captain Cook advanced with all 
 
 MI r.DEr: of iai'taix cook. 
 
 [From n rare old print.) 
 
 haste possible. UiDon reaching the beach a tall islander sprang in front of 
 him. declaring that he had killed his brother. Thereupon Cook fired but 
 missed him. At that moment some one from the wild rabljle threw a 
 stone, which struck Captain Cook and brought a groan from him. He 
 now fired his second pistol, killing his man this time. But the cry of 
 anguish coming from his lips caused one of his as-sa Hants to shout : 
 
 '' He feels pain ! He is not a god ! " 
 
 The islanders now ru.shed upon the .seamen so furiously tliat they were 
 compelled to beat a disorderly retreat, four of their number being killed.
 
 10 
 
 THE FAi; EAST.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 11 
 
 The others escaped by swimming to the boats, leaving their commander 
 surrounded by the excited natives. He signalled to his men to stoj) firing 
 and come to his assistance. At that moment a chief ran up behind him 
 and plunged an iron dagger through his body. He fell face downward in 
 tlie water, his body seized and dragged away by the infuriated mob. 
 
 Firing was resumed by the seamen, but the king called oft" his people 
 and the scene became quiet. Captain Clark, now in command, as soun as 
 he deenied it ex[)edient, sent ashore for the body of Captain Cook, though 
 
 !~ - C»(£T^-«*5-' 
 
 ■ «-— 
 
 '^^"''l^Bf^ 
 
 r 
 
 
 ■■■ 
 
 91 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ^^Pr^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ^^^^Hk ^ 
 
 P 
 
 
 
 
 L 
 
 ■A 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 nn 
 
 
 ^^^^^s 
 
 
 '^"^^ 
 
 m 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 h£§ 
 
 H^^HI 
 
 
 ^^H 
 
 B 
 
 3 
 
 91 
 
 MOXIMKNT TO CAPTAl.N COOK. 
 
 onl^- a jKjrtion of his lower limbs was to be found. The incensed island- 
 ers had burned the rest, except the heart, which was eaten by some 
 children tiirough mistake, which gave rise to the story that the natives 
 were cannibals. 
 
 Now that the imhappy affair was over, the people showed gonuino sorrow 
 over the untimely fate of the great navigator, Avhose memory is revered to 
 this day by the Hawaiians. Captain Cook was a brave and efficient officer, 
 doing more than all others toward enlightening the world in regard to the 
 islands of that remote quarter of the globe ; but he was f(uif'k-tempered, 
 and possessed unbridled imperiousness, which brought him his death at
 
 J 2 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 the hands of those who had gratuitously provisioned his sliips, and every- 
 where hivished upon him the attention and worshipfulness due to a god. 
 If carrying to the enhghtened world a knowledge of their existence, 
 these visitors were to leave with these simple jjeople a disease which was to 
 render sad havoc in their numbers and happiness. 
 
 The importance Captain Cook attached to his discovery of these islands 
 is told in his own words, the last entry he made in his journal kept of that 
 long and eventful voyage : 
 
 '• We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and 
 perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed 
 finding a northern passage home last summer. To this disappointment 
 we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and 
 to enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though last, seemed in 
 many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by 
 Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean." 
 
 The memory of this great, but unfortunate, navigator is preserved by a 
 white concrete monument, erected by some of his fellow countrymen on 
 the spot, as nearly as could be ascertained, where he fell. It bears the 
 following inscription : 
 
 " In memory of the great circumnavigator. Captain James Cook, R. N., 
 who discovered these islands on the 1 8th of January, 1778, A. D., and 
 fell near this spot on the 14th of Felu'uary. 1779. This [Monument was 
 erected in November, A. D. 1874, by some of his countrymen." 
 
 Thus, while the united colonies of Auierica were fighting their first war 
 for independence with the mother country, a son of the latter discovered 
 and explored those islands in the distant sea which were destined to 
 become eventually a part of the rising republic.
 
 SHOKE NEAR HILO. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE ISLAM) WOXDEKLANU. 
 
 THE last and largest island discovered by Captain Cook was called 
 l)y the natives Hawaii, — meaning "Fiery Java," and pronounced 
 as if spelled Hah-wah-ee, accent on second syllable, — and this 
 name has very appropriately been adopted as a designation for tlie entire 
 group in ]ilace of that of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 Tlie coasts of these islands are often bold, rocky, and precipitous, cliffs 
 rising tor hundreds of feet perpendicularly from the water. Yet there 
 are sheltered bays, and Oahu has one of the finest harbours in the world. 
 There are at different places along the shores dangerous reefs, beautiful 
 fringes of coral, or long, wide stretches of yellow beach, where the nnir- 
 muring tide kissed Ijy the trade-winds plays at hide-and-seek with hai-inlcss 
 glee. 
 
 Tlu! larger portion of the surface of the islands is mountainous, two of 
 the interior peaks reaching an altitude of nearly fourteen thousand feet ; 
 but at their foot lie rich alluvial plains, plateaus, and valleys, with sihcry 
 streams leaping in cascades from the overhanging cliffs. With few excep- 
 tions the mountainsides are clothed in dense growths of temperate zone 
 
 1:5
 
 14 
 
 THE P^VR EAST. 
 
 sturdiness, while the lowlands abound with a tropical vegetation of a 
 perpetual green. 
 
 Evidence of the volcanic origin of these islands exists on every hand, 
 from the dead and buried cones of Kauai to the livina; fires of Hawaii. 
 By this it will be observed that the former, as well as being the most 
 northerly, is the oldest of the series. This theory is supported by the fact 
 that only two cones remain on this isle, and these on the southeastern 
 slope. All others have been destroyed by the march of years, and their 
 
 HAN'AI-I I'l I A I 1 ~. l» \ I VI. 
 
 slopes covered with dense forests. The land having undergone longer 
 change, is more arable, the soil deeper, and the vegetation more bountiful 
 than on the other islands. Encircled by beaches of silvery brightness, 
 with valleys and hillsides painted by nature's brush a green that never 
 fades, Kauai is the " Garden Isle." 
 
 Lying in a westerly direction, about fifteen miles distant, is Niihau, 
 resembling it in physical features. This island is sparsely settled, its 
 inhabitants being formerly noted for the manufacture of mats made from 
 a sort of rush which grows only on this island and Kauai, and is now the 
 largest sheep range among the islands.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 15 
 
 Kaula, southwest from Kauai, is a harreii rock, wliicli is tlie rfsmt of 
 innumerable aquatic birds, whose eggs are sometimes souglit b\- the inlialii- 
 tants of tlie windward islands. 
 
 Oahu, the following island on the southeasterly course, produces nmre 
 recent and numerous indications of its volcanic formation ; but here are 
 valleys of great fertility, and a mountain range of rugged appearance. On 
 account of its fine harbour at Honolulu, it is known as the " Mistress of 
 the Sea." 
 
 WAIKAII KAI.I.S, MACI. 
 
 Maui, next in order, attests its A^ounger age, having several craters, the 
 largest and highest of which is Ilaleakala. "tlie house of the sun," which 
 lifts its bulky crest ten tliousand feet into the air, being the largest extinct 
 volcano in the world. Main is the '' Switzerland of the Hawaiian Islands." 
 
 South of Maui, separated by a channel of only a few miles in width, is 
 Kahoolawe, with its lowlands, except for a species of coarse grass, almost 
 destitute of plant life. It is uninhal.)ited, stock owners of Maui, to 
 wliicli island it no doubt sometime belonged, having it as jjasturage for 
 their flocks.
 
 16 
 
 THE FAll EAST. 
 
 Between these two islands rises a rocky barrier, Molokini, used as a 
 place for the fishermen to spread their nets. 
 
 Lanai, separated from Mani l^y a channel of ten miles in width, has 
 bat recently become valuable for sheep raising and sugar growing. 
 
 East-southeast of Oahu is a chain of volcanic mountains nearly equal 
 in elevation to those of Maui, which form in the main the island of 
 Molokai, a long, irregular ridge, with little level land and few plantations, 
 and the unenviable reputation of being the lazaretto of exiled lepers. 
 
 The youngest and mightiest of the group is the one from which it gets 
 its name, unfinished Hawaii, still smoking, still exliibiting to the wondering 
 
 ;A% *% V 
 
 f^mm^- 
 
 2 
 
 •.•'5^'ti<w*^?9F? 
 
 iKiNdi.ri.r II Ai:ii<iri; i i;i>M (io\KKNMKNT Bt'll.lUNG. 
 
 beholder the sublime agency of its creation. This island is famous for its 
 physical grandeur and volcanic exhibitions. The legends of the Hawaiians, 
 reaching back over a thousand years, fail to mention any activity of vol- 
 canic force on the other islands. The fires of Maui's mammotli house nf the 
 sun burned out before man jjeheld its riven walls, w bile concerning the erup- 
 tions of the lower and lesser craters the ancient historian is equally silent. 
 What a grand, yet terriljle. spectacle it must have been when all the flues 
 of these mountain furnaces were aglow with their liquid flame, which in 
 their bombardment of the sky fairly set ablaze the moonless heavens and 
 the eight Hawaiian seas ! But if tradition fails to describe the activity 
 of the volcanoes of the other islands, it is very vivid in its pictures of 
 Hawaii's volcanic outbreaks. Mauna Kea (the white mountain), Mauna
 
 Native Straw Hut, Hawaii
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 17 
 
 Lut (the long mountain), Mauna HaulaUii (olfs])riii,u; of the sun) at irregular 
 inte^'vals luive each displayed their awful energies in ciiuwdsiuiis that have 
 rocked the island like a eradle on the deep and Hung their molten contents 
 down the slopes to the sea. A still more realistic representative of the 
 iiery powers is the ever active Kilauea, with a crater nearly nine miles in 
 circumference, the largest constant volcano in the world. 
 
 With a uniformity and salubrity of climate unsurj);issed, the mean tem- 
 perature never rising above 
 ninety or sinking below 
 sixty degrees, and whose 
 southern languor is con- 
 tinually refreshed by the 
 ozone breath of the polar 
 seas; with plains and 
 .slopes of remarkable fer- 
 tilit}^ covered with vast 
 cane-fields and sugar plan- 
 tations, groves of kingly 
 palms, sturdy ironwoods, 
 delicate tamarinds, feathery 
 algarobas, star-eyed or- 
 anges, dusky ohias, snowy 
 candlenuts, sunlit j^fipfiids, 
 u m b ra ge o u s breadfruits, 
 flowering mangoes, wine- 
 palms, slender cocoa-palms, 
 hardy pomegranates, 
 twisted haus and wide- 
 spreading umbrella-trees, of plants and vegetables, the fan-leafed banana, 
 tree-like plantain, giant fern, clinging azella. nutritive yam. luilburnns 
 taro, crimson strawberry, and many otliers, the united offerings of the 
 tropical and temperate zones growing side b}' side ; with a flora that does 
 not stop by decorating the rich alluvial deposits of the valleys in a bewil- 
 dering array of flowers and reminders of flowers, but fringes the brinks 
 of the chasms with the scarlet vine ie-ir and spans the abyss with a net- 
 work of gold and bronze \ ines tipped with trumjiet-shaped blossoms, tints 
 
 HIOIIFST POINT TV THE CUATER OF KII.VfEA.
 
 18 
 
 THE KAU EAST. 
 
 the mist of the waterfalls with the rainbow hues of the convolvuU, or crim- 
 sons with the transparent leaves of the ohia the fiery floods of the craters ; 
 with gorgeous vines and trailers, magenta blossoms and passion flowers, 
 embowering the homes of the many races of men living here in harmony 
 and contentment ; Avith a landscape clothed in a perpetual green, and 
 mountain-tops floating like white and brown islands in cloudland ; with 
 
 their summer seas reflecting the 
 azure of the southern skies ; 
 with its beaches of a dazzling 
 whiteness fringed with cocoa- 
 pahns ; over all an indescribable 
 charm of solitude and drowsy 
 peacefulness, to him who looks 
 for the sunny side of nature 
 the Hawaiian Islands are the 
 " Paradise of tlie Pacific," the 
 Wonderland of the World. 
 
 In vivid contrast to Oahu's 
 Edenic valleys and Maui's pic- 
 turesque slopes rises the weather 
 side of Hawaii, lighted by that 
 huge lamp trimmed by no 
 mortal hand, but kept bright 
 against burning sun and waxing 
 moon from time immemorial, 
 and overlooked by the moun- 
 tain monarch with foot Itathed 
 in the sea and whitened head 
 swathed in the clouds. Every- 
 where the grandeur and sul)limit\- of the scene strikes the beholder with 
 wonder akin to awe. He gazes on the corrugated streams of congealed 
 lava, on the broken domes of volcanoes long since burned out, on the 
 furnace fires of Kilauea, sees with his own eyes the startling evidence of 
 the internal powers that have builded the mountains, watches the crim- 
 son fountains play on the surface of the lake of fire and the fantastic 
 figiu-es dancing in ehoulish glee at their escape from the Plutonian dun- 
 
 OHIA, HAWAIIAN APPLE.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 19 
 
 geons of the inner earth, until lie exclaims in dismay, '• The Inferno of 
 the World ! " 
 
 The indigenous plants are the banana, plantain, cocoanut, breadfruit, 
 ohia (native apple), sugar-cane, arrowroot, sweet potato, taro, strawberry, 
 raspberry, and the sacred berr\- olielo. Tlie imported plants are Hmc, 
 orange, mango, tamarind, papaia, guava, and all ediljle products except 
 those named above. 
 
 If prodigal in her floral gifts 
 nature was extremely chary 
 in her bestowal of wild and 
 domestic creatures, and the 
 fauna of the islands a hundred 
 years ago was limited to dogs, 
 swine, mice, lizards, owls, bats, 
 snipe, plover, ducks, a species 
 of geese peculiar to the place, 
 and a few varieties of birds of 
 simple song and not very bril- 
 liant plumage. It seems prob- 
 able that animal life was 
 almost entirely lacking here 
 when first 2:)eopled by the 
 human race. 
 
 The natives accounted for 
 the remarkable uniformity and 
 salubrity of the climate by the 
 following legendary tale of 
 the early days of the islands : 
 
 A powerful demi-god ruling 
 over Maui, and having his dwelling on Ilaleakahu got angry because 
 the sun shone every morning on the mountains of Hawaii bt'forc it did 
 on his abode. Thereupon he caused to be made a huge net, wliich he 
 carried one night and spread it (piite over his rival. As a result tlu? 
 rising sun got entangled in the meshes of Maui's big web, which had 
 been woven so cunningly that the harder the sun tried to break away 
 the more his rays got mixed up in the gauze-like structure. Maui 
 
 OIIKI.O.
 
 20 
 
 THE FAU EAST. 
 
 watched the struggle with a merry twinkle in his eye, and when the sun 
 had got tired of his futile eiforts, he offered to set him free if he woidd 
 promise to shine on him and Manna Loa alike, never too hot or too cold, 
 and never allowing mist or cloud to obscnre the favoured islands. The 
 sun was fain to obtain his freedom upon such easj' terms, and, agreeing to 
 Maui's demands, received liis liberty. Ever since he has bestowed his 
 favour with wonderful equality on the seven islands, so that the\- have 
 
 MC 
 
 
 TAUI) rATl'Il. 
 
 been blessed witli their remarkaVjle climate and temperature. Fogs or 
 mists have never risen to mar the sun's splendour, and lest he should 
 forget his promise and shine too fervidly on his children of the sea, he 
 made a compact with the north wind to keep perpetual vigil over him.
 
 CDCOANUT liKOVE. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 A I'RTUKESQUE PEOPLE. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK estimated the population of these islands to be not 
 less than four hundred thousand, and that Hawaii alone contained 
 considerably over one hundred thousand inhaljitauts. 
 These people were not savages, as we are apt to apply the term, but bar- 
 l)arians of a milder and more progressive type. In personal appearance 
 thov were generally above medium stature, well formed, with uniscular 
 liml)s. i'rank countenance, and features often resembling the Europeans. 
 An early writer in describing them said : " Their gait is graceful and 
 sometimes stately. The chiefs in particular are tall and stout, and their 
 personal appearance is so much superior to the common people that some 
 have imagined them a distinct race. Tliis, however, is not the fact ; the 
 great care taken of them in childhood, and their better living, have proba- 
 bly occasioned tlie difference. Their liuir is Idack or brown, strong, and 
 
 21
 
 22 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 freqiu'ntlj curly ; their complexion is neither yellow like the Malay nor 
 red like the American Indian, but a kind of olive and sometimes reddish 
 brown. Their arms and other parts of the body are often tattooed, but, 
 except in one of the islands (Kauai), this is by no means as common as in 
 many parts of tlie southern sea." 
 
 Tliey belonged to a branch of the Polynesian race, which was vmdoubt- 
 edly of Aryan stock, migrating at a remote period from Asia Minor 
 through India, Sumatra, and Java to the Southern Pacific Islands, from 
 
 thence advancing slowly north- 
 ward to NeAv Zealand, Samoa, 
 Tahiti, and Hawaii. These 
 facts are well substantiated by 
 the close affinity of the names 
 of localities, men, and physical 
 objects, with the general con- 
 struction of the several lan- 
 guages, so that a person master- 
 ing one can easily imderstand 
 the others. 
 
 Early accounts of the people 
 have been preserved through 
 an order of priesthood, which 
 caused to be connnitted to 
 memory the more prominent 
 affairs of each family, so that 
 handed down from father to son 
 successively the deeds and gene- 
 alogies of tlie chiefs cduld l)e traced for over forty generations. The.se 
 traditions, a picturesque background for its romantic modern history, 
 make Hawaii a wonderland in verity. Their legends peopled tlie sea 
 and sky with all sorts of weird spirits and the volcanic craters of the 
 island world witli denious of fantastic figures and terrible demeanour; 
 they scintillated with deeds of prowess and chivalry, if wilder and more 
 barbarous, none the less valorous than those performed by the mailed 
 knights of the continental world ; their warriors, without shields or fear of 
 death, sprang to battle under the wings of the great white bird of 
 
 HAWAIIAN' {'HIFK ill (iriil\ 1 I M 1 - Willi 
 1- KA 1 II I i; llKl.MK 1 .
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 23 
 
 Kane, as defiantly as the rugged vikings of Northland followed the 
 dusky ravens of Odin; their sailors, in frail craft and under the sole 
 guidance of the sun and stars, navigated the seas for thousands of 
 miles, and achieved conquests in far distant lands ; one of their boldest 
 mariners, in the eleventh century, reaclu'd the western shore of America, 
 and carried ba.ck to his native isles as captives three of its inhabi- 
 tants; their kings and priests were men of miglity stature, proving by 
 their genealogies a descent from Adam and a kinship with the gods. 
 
 These sages describe a I'e- 
 iiowned chief by the name of 
 Hawaii, a great fisherman and 
 navigator in ancient times, 
 who, on one of his long 
 <-ruises, discovered two islands 
 that pleased him so well he 
 returned and brought there 
 his wife and family. The 
 islands he named Maui, for 
 his wife, and Hawaii-loa for 
 himself, and this family, the 
 legend claims, were the first 
 inhabitants of the islands. 
 
 While this statement is to 
 Ije looked upon with suspicion, 
 there is a very clear account 
 of an emigration from Samoa 
 in the sixth century inider 
 
 a chief named Nanaula. This chief, after troulde with some of his 
 relatives in regard to ruling his nati\e isle, gathered a portion of his most 
 adventurous followers about liim ; and in double canoes, large enough to 
 hold from fifty to one hundred persons, this party, accompanied by their 
 ])riests, taking with them their gods, dogs, swine, fowls, and seeds, set 
 forth into the unknown sea on a voyage of discovery. They reached 
 Oahu and Kauai, which they found nn})eoj)led, and took peacefid ])osses- 
 sion. They were soon followed by a few others from Samoa and Taliiti, 
 when immigration ceased for over four hundred years. 
 
 A YOUNG <iIKL.
 
 24 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Then another warlike chief of Samoa, known as Nanamoa, not satisfied 
 with fighting at home, set out on a voyage of conquest, eventually coming 
 to the Hawaiian Islands. A long and desperate struggle with the descend- 
 ants of Nanaula for a supremacy followed. Other incursions succeeded, 
 one of which brought from Samoa Paao, a high priest, and Pili, a warlike 
 chief, and Hawaii passed under the sovereignty of these two. Intercourse 
 was maintained with tlie southern islands for one hundi-ed and fifty 3ears, 
 
 ii ri!i(i(ii;i: i'.oats. 
 
 according to all accounts, an unusually active period, filled with romantic 
 adventures, wild conquests, and perilous voj^ages at sea. 
 
 Isolated and environed by water, dependent to a considerable extent 
 upon the fruits of the sea for their living, the inhabitants of the Pacific 
 islands naturally partook of a maritime character. The Hawaiian was 
 in his true element when disporting in the tide, or daring the dangers of 
 old ocean in his craft with its curved prow and clumsy-looking outrigger. 
 
 The building of their seagoing craft, with the tools the mechanic had 
 to use, required no small amount of time, skill, and perseverance. Thus 
 the builder of a canoe became a person of great importance, and the
 
 HAWAII. -Jo 
 
 launching of his craft an event celebrated with a feast and the sacrifice 
 of a human life. 
 
 There were several classes, as well as sizes and shapes of canoes.^ The 
 principal chiefs had boats from fifty to seventy-five feet in length, two 
 feet in width, and from three to four feet in depth. The sterns were 
 often ornamented witli crude carvings of grotesque figures. The 
 size and decorations were supposed to indicate the rank and dignity 
 of the chief. 
 
 WAR C.V.NOi;, IILDKX TIMK. 
 
 Next to these were the sacred craft of the priests, their ornaments set 
 off with feathers. Small houses were built on these, containing the image 
 of .some god, usually in the shape of a bird, and many coloured feathers 
 decked the place. Here the prayers for the welfare of the little fleet were 
 offered, and offerings made to Lono, the god of the waters. 
 
 Not inferior in size, though less ornamented, were the stoutly built war 
 canoes. With these the sterns were made lower and covered so as to 
 afford protection from the darts and missiles of the enemy. The l)Ottom 
 
 ' This name seems to liave originated with the natives of America, anil, since the di.scovery 
 of this continent by Columbus, to have been applied indiscriminately to the smaller water 
 craft of the uncivilised races wherever found. — Althok.
 
 26 
 
 THE FAi; EAST. 
 
 was round, with the upjier sides narrow, and tlie prow curved like tlie 
 neck of a swan and finished to represent the head of some bird. In 
 order to give tlie rowers and sail-managers more room and security 
 than on the narrow edges, a sort of grating made from the strong 
 wood of the breadfruit-tree was placed over the hull. The fighting 
 men were stationed on a platform in the forepart of the boat. Ordi- 
 narily these craft were about sixty feet in length, and capable of carrying 
 fifty warriors. 
 
 There were single canoes built in very much the same style as the 
 others, hewn from the trunk of some tree, with rounded sides and sharp 
 
 N A I 1\ K IIDA I >. 
 
 ends. Then there were the big double canoes, made from two tree-trunks, 
 and sometimes over a hundred feet in length. 
 
 The very largest of the canoes were made from the trees tliat had 
 drifted down there from the northwest coast of America, some giant pine 
 caught by a gale and borne thither, a present of tlie waves attributed 
 by them to be a gift from the gods. One of the single-trunk canoes has 
 been known to be over a hundred feet in length. In case of the double- 
 trunk canoe the builders had often to wait years before a proper mate to 
 the one coming first would be sent to their shores. The coming of such 
 was an event of great rejoicing, and a feast followed with a sacrifice made 
 to the gods. 
 
 The canoes always bore particular names, which designated some
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 27 
 
 COtliAM T ISLAND.
 
 28 rill' I'AK K AST. 
 
 iiupoi'taot iiu'iilont ooiujootoil wiili iho iratt. or somo poouliar iharju'toi^ 
 islii' 1)1" tlio Imat or its ownor. 
 
 'l"lu> uaviiiatois of thoso ilavs had a oortain knowlodgo ol tl>o hoavons, 
 a>id thi' livt> |>lanol5J. MiMvurv. Mars, Vouus, Jupitor, and Saturn, woro 
 known to tl>ou» as •• the watulorinii' stars." while thev irnujiknl the lixed 
 stars in eonstollatiiuis. Pluv laU'idatinl the transit of the s»n» aiid tixed 
 the equatorial line. With sueh understanding and a trainetl i>hservation 
 of the winds atid eunvnts. the tloatitiu; dehris of the deep, and the tlight 
 of hinls, thev weixj enable<l to make their long, ilubious vovagi's with 
 eomparative sutvty. 
 
 riu' soeial and eivil eondition of the aneient llawaiians stnai-ked nioiv 
 of despotism than that »>!" anv other Polynesian raoe, Tiie inhabitants 
 were divitied into three ehisses: the nobilitv, consisting o( the kings and 
 ehiofs ol" ditfeivnt ranks ; the priests (kahunas), inehiding also sorotnvrs anil 
 doetoj"s ; the eonnnon people (Makaainana), or labouivrs. IVtween the 
 tirst atul last existed a wide gap, whieh was of a s;\e»vd and ivligiiuis 
 eharaeter. The ehiefs elaimed deseent front the gods, and were allied with 
 invisible powers. In suj^port of this they eompared their statinv and 
 physique with the eonnnon jieople. whieh was striking ]»nH»f of what they 
 sjvid. As late as the lifteenlh and sixteenth centuries Hawaii bivisted 
 of sueh kitigs as Kiha, Liloa. rmi, and Lono. eaeh eight (>r nine feet 
 in height, and eonvspondingly bri>jid of sluuiUler and girth. Heviuul 
 the.<e rises the gigatitie liguiv o( Kana. the .H>n of llina, whose height 
 was meaxSinvd by paees. 
 
 The chiefs wetv the si>le owners ol tiie soil, and eonsidered not- 
 only that the land was theirs, but all whieh givw upon it. the lish 
 swinnning itt the sea, the time and the produetion of tho.-;e mider 
 them. This was aeeoitling \o the belief that the khig, of superior 
 birth, naturally owned evervihing. He .illowed eertaiti portions to 
 be held by his ehiefs in trust, on the eonilition that they ivmler 
 him tribute and military .>*nj>port. Tiien these chiefs in turn divided 
 their territory anumg mider-ihiefs. who in a smaller wav paid a like 
 return to them that they gave the king. These divisions and sulwlivi- 
 sions never ivaehed to the toilers, the slaves of the .soil, who did the brunt 
 of the work, and must feel amply rewarded if ju'ivileg'ed to live as poor 
 tenants.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 2") 
 
 The ht'tui oliief t>t" an ishitnl \v;vs style<l moi. and hb prestige and power 
 wereusiuillv iidieritetl. Ot" sd uuieh im{H>rtanoe was he, that when he went 
 abivad ho was attended by a body-giianl. the toretuost ot which Imre 
 phnneil staffs ot" hrisjht o»»loars. Did he i^^ bv eanoe. his sails wen^ 
 jKvinted hmI. and he was the oidy [)erson wh«.> ondd wetir the feiither 
 cKiak anil hehnet. The ixuninon people were exj>ei"ted to pn)strate theni- 
 s»'l\es on tho i^rronnd as ho and his i-etimie passed. It w;is the signing 
 ot" his doath-warrant i""- > lonnnon person to remain standing at the 
 
 INIbUloK Of NVIINK KOISK. 
 
 mention ot" the king's nanu'. at the mere taking (uist him ol" tho monarch's 
 fiKMl. water, or raiment : to pnt on any article of dress botonging to him. 
 to enter his presence without permission, to cross his shallow or even that 
 of his dwelling. If a man dared to enter, after ilne consent fn.)m his 
 si>ven.>ign. tho lattor"s abode, lie tiuist crawl flat upon the ground, and 
 depart in the s;inie humble maimer 
 
 Licking metals of all kinds, the early Hawaiians made their implements 
 of war or industry from wood, liono. or stone. — axes, adzes, hammers of 
 stone, spades of wood, knives of tlint and ivory. Needles wen* made 
 of thorns or bones, and spears and daggers of hanlenod wood. With such
 
 30 
 
 THE FA II EAST. 
 
 tools as these they felled trees, from which they built their temples, 
 canoes and barges, dwellings, manufactured cloth and cordage, made walls 
 of liewn stone, built roads and fish-ponds, and tilled the soil. They wove 
 mats, cloths, sails, and from the inner bark of tlie paper mulberry beat 
 out a thin cloth called kapa, which they sometimes ornamented with 
 figures ai^d made in different colours. 
 
 They ate the flesh of nearly everything living in the sea, as well as 
 that of swine, dogs, and fowls, yams, sweet potatoes, fruits, berries, and 
 several kinds of seaweed, besides 
 the staple of their foods, poi, a 
 sort of fermented paste made 
 from taro, a bulbous root very 
 similar to an Indian turnip. 
 They drank an intoxicating bev- 
 erao;e made from the sweet root 
 of the ti plant,' and a stupefying 
 liquor from the awa root. They 
 did their cooking by wrapping 
 their food in ti leaves and plac- 
 incr it in an underOTOund oven. 
 Their household utensils con- 
 sisted of shells, gourds, cala- 
 bashes of different sizes and 
 shapes, and platters made of 
 wood. They lighted their homes 
 with the oily nuts of the ku-kui, 
 or candlenut-tree. 
 
 The dress of the Hawaiian consisted simply of a narrow maro fastened 
 around the loins for the male, a pan or skirt reaching from the waist to the 
 knees for the female. These skirts were invariably made of five thick- 
 nesses of kapa, and when the weather was cool a short cape was thrown 
 over the shoulders. Generally the heads of lioth sexes were uncovered. 
 
 Besides the maro the king wore on state occasions the royal mantle, the 
 mamo, so called for the little bird that furnished the feathers to make 
 it. This mantle reached from the neck to the ankle, and it took over ten 
 tliousand feathers to make it. As each bird had but two of the kind of 
 
 1 Inlroduced by Botany Bay convicts at begiiiniiig of present century. 
 
 1.11,11 DUALA.Ni, IbS;, Ul.lU Al TAIMN 1. 
 THE ROYAL MANTLE.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 31 
 
 feathers desired, one under either wing, it took at least five thousand of 
 them to afford the material for this costly garment. 
 
 The chiefs wore sliort capes of yellow feathers mixed with red. The 
 colour of the priests and gods was red. The nobility had feather head- 
 dresses, and charms of bones su.spended from the neck. Some of them 
 tattooed ■ their faces, breast, and thighs, while flowers were the universal 
 ornament. At festivals, feasts, and other gatherings, all wore garlands 
 of beautiful and fragrant leaves, crowns of flowers resting on the head, 
 and wreaths encircling the neck. This beautiful custom still prevails. 
 
 NATIVK GRAS.S HOUSE. 
 
 The dwellings of the common people were constructed of upright posts 
 planted in the groimd, Avith cross beams and rafters, roof and sides con- 
 structed of twigs woven together and filled in with a thatch of grass. 
 
 The houses of the nobility were larger, stronger, and frequently sur- 
 rounded by wide verandas. These buildings were built so the main 
 entrance faced the east, the home of Kane, the supreme god. These 
 homes consisted of six separate dwellings or apartments ; first, the heiau, 
 or idol house ; second, the man, or eating-house of the males, from which 
 the females were prohibited from entering; third, the hale-noa, or the 
 hou.><e of tlie women, which men could not enter ; fourth, the hale-aina,
 
 32 
 
 THE FAll EAST. 
 
 or eating-house of the wife ; fifth, the kua, or wife's working-liouse ; sixth, 
 the hale-pea, or nursery of the wife. Tlie poorer classes followed as near 
 as possible this plan, tliough they had often to use screens for partitions. 
 
 The Hawaiians enjoyed athletic sports of all kinds, running, boxing, 
 jumping, wrestling, swimming, diving, and other games, but the two pas- 
 times which delighted them most were hohia and surf-riding. The former 
 consisted of coasting on long, narrow sledges down steep descents, with 
 
 ■>»' 
 
 RIDING THE SlUF. 
 
 the rider lying prone and borne on with the velocity of the wind. He 
 who readied the foot first was the A'ictor. These sportsmen did not 
 require a snow path over which to fly on their strange sleds, but found 
 the best race-courses over slopes covered with dried grass or over lava- 
 floored tracks. 
 
 The goddess of the volcano, Pele, was supposed to delight in these 
 contests, coming disguised in some earthly form. As may be imagined, 
 she always became a dangerous rival. Kahawali, a Hawaiian i^rince, once 
 raced with her when she was impersonating a beautiful young woman.
 
 Ui IVomen, Hawaii
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 33 
 
 On the first trip lie outdistanced her. and when she asked for a second 
 trial, claiming that her j^opa (sled) was inferior to his, he laughed at her 
 and started alone down the descent. Hearing wild shouts and great confu- 
 sion, he saw that she was pursuing him, riding on the crest of a lava wave. 
 In his desperation he fled for the sea. wliere she could not follow him. 
 But she threw stones after him, making the water so hot he perished. To 
 
 him who doubts this tale the stones 
 are pointed out on the beach, and 
 the track of the lava stream is 
 shown. 
 
 Tlieir musical instruments were 
 the ^;fl//».s, or drums of different 
 sizes, the ohe, or bamboo flute, 
 the Jiokio, or rude clarionet, and 
 a few ruder instruments than 
 even these. They had several 
 dances, of which the hula, par- 
 ticipated in by males and females, 
 was the most pojiular. 
 
 In their mourning customs the 
 Hawaiians showed their wildest 
 nature, often resorting to the most 
 extra\-agant performances, excus- 
 ing all by sa^-ing that grief had so 
 ini.seated their reason as to make 
 them not responsible. The masses 
 liuiied their dead in caves, but 
 tlie bones of the kings were dis- 
 posed of with the utmost care. There were royal burial-places at Hon- 
 aunau, and on Maui at lao valley ; but not always did the remains of 
 the kings receive sepulture at those places. On account of the fear that 
 some one would make fish-hooks or other instruments out of them, for 
 the charm they were supposed to give, all sorts of expedients were re- 
 sortecl to by faithful friends to conceal the bones. 
 
 The year was divided into twelve months of thirty days each. The 
 days were named instead of being numbered. As their division gave but 
 
 VIEW NEAR nll.c).
 
 34 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 three hundred and sixty days to the year, they consecrated to Lone, the 
 god of the elements, the balance, so as to complete the sidereal year regu- 
 lated by the Pleiades. The new year began with the winter solstice. 
 They had the lunar month by which they regulated their feasts. The 
 seasons were two, wet and dry. In counting they calculated by four and 
 its mvdtiples. 
 
 They had no written language, and their oral speech contained the 
 
 I'ALM GROVE. 
 
 sounds of but twelve letters, five vowels and seven consonants, as follows : 
 a, e, i, 0, u, and h, k, 1, in, n, p, w. To these r, t, and 1j are sometimes 
 added by writers, but the r takes the sound of 1, the t of k, and b of p. 
 A is pronounced usually as in father ; e as in they ; i as in mar/ne ; o as 
 in mole ; u as in mztte. W usually has the sovmd of v. The only excep- 
 tion to these rules is when the vowel has the long or short sound. Every 
 syllable and every word in the language ends with a vowel, and two con- 
 sonants never come together. The penultimate, or next to last syllable of 
 a word, almost invariably receives the accent. The plural takes the prefix
 
 HAWAII. 35 
 
 of na. In Hawaiian conversation words fall from the tongue with the 
 musical rhythm of a brook gliding over a pebbly bottom, a consonant 
 thrown in now and then as rocks are found in the stream, not to check 
 the current, but to break the monotony of its flow. 
 
 In order to maintain the distinction between the classes, the nobility 
 had a language of its own, which was not understood by the common 
 people. This was changed from time to time that it might not be learned 
 by any one outside of the favoured circle. 
 
 If barbarians, the Hawaiians were never cannibals. They sacrificed 
 their prisoners of war on the altars of their gods that they might gain 
 further victories under arms, and bathed those same graven images in the 
 blood of their kindred to appease the imaginary wrath of their over-rulers. 
 In this respect they did not differ from the ancient Gauls and Saxons, 
 whose temples were crimsoned with the blood of human beings, while 
 a father of Israel sharpened his knife to slay his son that liis body might 
 be made an offering to the offended God of Abraham. 
 
 Marriage was forbidden only between mother and son, and yet the 
 kingly line boasted of the finest specimens of manhood and womanhood. 
 The people were in physical bondage to the king and in mental slavery to 
 the priesthood, and yet they were a merry, easy-going, brave, and unselfish 
 race of men and women. Their kings were ever at war, and yet no fear 
 of a foreign invasion reached their hearts. Surrounded by the eight 
 Hawaiian seas tliey were a little world by themselves, their lives filled 
 with deeds of knightly chivalry, incidents of love and romantic devotion 
 unto death, and examples of unfaltering patriotism and self-sacrifice. If 
 an impassable gulf frowned between the rulers and their subjects, each 
 party went its way careless and contented. 
 
 Following the second period of invasion the Hawaiians enjoyed a long 
 spell of peace and isolation, six hundred years of non-intercourse with the 
 outside world, when in 1778 Captain Cook led the way for further 
 conquest, such as ancient history liad not told.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE NAPOLEOX OF THE PACIFIC. 
 
 PILI'S lineal descendant 
 Kalaniopiiu was king of 
 Hawaii at the time of 
 Captain Cook's visit. He also 
 held sway over part of Maui. 
 Kahekili, " the Thunderer/' a 
 brother to the wife of Kalani- 
 opuu, was moi of the greater 
 l^art of Maui. His cousin, 
 Kahahana, was king of Oahu, 
 Molokai, and Lanai. Kauai and 
 Niihau were ruled by a queen 
 related to the royal family of 
 Hawaii, and whose husband 
 was a younger lirother to the 
 king of Maui. It will thus be 
 seen that the rulers of the 
 different islands were connected 
 by ties of blood, though little 
 love was lost on this account, 
 when the frequent wars brought 
 the bitterness of strife. 
 
 At that time Kahekili was 
 arming to overpower Kahahana 
 of Oahu, expecting to be assisted 
 by Kauai's queen. Captain Cook 
 
 found Kalaniopuu away fighting this same Tliunderer, to avenge the death 
 of his eight hundred nobles, the flower of his army, who had been hewn down 
 like playthings at Hana the year before by Kahekili's doughty warriors. 
 
 36 
 
 STATUE OF KAMEHAMEHA I.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 37 
 
 There was then in the court of Kalaniopuu a silent, taciturn man of 
 forty, wlio was destined to end all these petty strifes in a Napoleonic con- 
 quest of the islands. He was of stalwart frame, and his courage and 
 ])rowess were well known, though none dreamed uf his skill and ambition 
 as a warrior. Born at Halawa, in the Kohala district, during a turbulent 
 period, when all the forces of Hawaii were mustering for an invasion of 
 Maui, he was the accepted son of the king's half-brother, Keoua, though 
 some believed he was the son of Kahekili, the Thunderer. However that 
 might be, he was of royal blood, and what was of more imiDortance still, 
 
 HILO BAY. 
 
 posses.sed the indomitable, far-seeing spirit of Kamehameha the Conqueror. 
 This Kamehameha took an active part in the fight which resulted in the 
 death of Captain Cook, and more than any other person remarked the 
 great superiority of the weapons of the whites over those of his country- 
 men. After this unfortunate scene he retired to his estate in Kohala, and 
 was quietly building canoes and looking after his patrimony when tlie aged 
 king died in 1782. Kiwalao, the moi's oldest son, now succeeded to the 
 kingship, with Kamehameha .second in power. 
 
 Usually the death of a king was followed by a civil war, and this case 
 was no exception to the rule. Four chiefs of Kona joined issue under 
 Kamehameha, and a fierce battle ensued just south of Kealakekua Bay,
 
 88 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 when Kiwalao was killed and his victor became ruler over Kona and Kohala. 
 The rest of the island was divided among a brother and uncle of Kiwalao 
 and Kahekili and his brother Kaeo. 
 
 An intense and jirolonged warfare between the rival powers followed, 
 during which Kamehameha acted a stirring part in assailing West Maui, 
 while Kahekili and his brother Kaeo attacked the district of Hilo. No 
 faction gained any decisive victory. During a lull in this savage conten- 
 tion, in 1786, American and European ships on their way to Canton began 
 
 NAWILIWILI, KAUAI. 
 
 to stop here for supplies, or, engaged in the fur trade on the northwest 
 coast of America, ran down here to spend the winter, Waimea, on the 
 island of Kauai, and Kealakekua Bay being the harbours most frequented 
 by them. 
 
 Some of the native chiefs were inclined to look with suspicion upon these 
 visitors, and, though a brisk trade soon sprung up, to treat them treacher- 
 ously. Kamehameha showed a more far-seeing policy by treating with 
 the strangers fairly, trying to gain their confidence by offering them every 
 hospitality at his disposal and even defending them against the faithless 
 treatment of the other chiefs. In tliis way he secured the better part of the
 
 HAWAII. 39 
 
 trade, and came into possession of firearms, powder, and shot, the articles 
 most in demand by the natives. 
 
 In 1789 a treacherous act of his enemies was the cause of giving to 
 Kamehameha just such aid and counsel as he needed in the coming conquest. 
 In February, 1790, an American fur-trader named Metcalf, on his way to 
 China, with two vessels, the Eleanor and Fair American, the latter com- 
 manded by his son, a youth of twenty, anchored off Honuaula, ]\Iaui. 
 That night, after killing its occupant, some of the natives stole a boat and 
 stove it to pieces to get its nails. 
 
 The following morning, learning that the offenders had gone to Olowalu, 
 Captain Metcalf proceeded thither. Arriving there during a religious 
 festival, he waited until it was over, and then, making no mention of the 
 wrong which had been done him, opened trade with the Hawaiians. This 
 called a great number of canoes about the vessel, when he ordered a broad- 
 side of shot to be poured upon the unsuspecting crowd. The water was 
 strewn with the bodies of the dead and wounded natives and the ruins of 
 their canoes. Immediately after doing this. Captain Metcalf ran down to 
 the Hawaiian coast, lying oft' Kealakekua Bay for the coming of the Fair 
 American. 
 
 Meanwhile a fleet of canoes had gone out to the other sliip, and under 
 pretence of trade gained the deck. The boy captain, taken off his guard, 
 w'as killed, and the slaughter of his crew qiuckly followed, the mate, Isaac 
 Davis, being alone spared. The vessel was then ransacked, and taking 
 everything that pleased them, with Davis a captive, the natives retreated 
 from that vicinity. 
 
 On March 17th, while waiting in the hope of finding his son or some of 
 the crew, his boatswain, John Young, while on shore was captured and 
 carried off by the natives. Giving up all hopes of finding the lost ones, 
 and believing Young to have been killed. Captain Metcalf went on his way. 
 Kamehameha soon obtained possession of the muskets, cannon, and ammu- 
 nition taken from the Fair American, and the prisoners fell into his hands. 
 In the two foreign sailors, if he could induce them to enter his service, 
 he foresaw valua])le assistants in the work he had ahead, and he treated 
 them with kindness and resjject. 
 
 Realising that they had little hope of being found and rescued by their 
 countrymen, and beuig of adventurous, ambitious natures, they soon yielded
 
 40 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 to his overtures, to become his most able advisers and supporters in the 
 long and arduous war to follow. They were in fact, as anotlier has well 
 put it, the marshals of the Hawaiian Napoleon, his Ney and MacDonald. 
 Thus the affair connected with the two American ships, as questionable as 
 it was on both sides, marked the beginning of a new era in the history of 
 Hawaii. 
 
 Kamehameha lost no more time in resuming his war with the powers 
 
 !i 
 
 lAO VALLEY. 
 
 of Maui, and that year, 1790, he defeated its defenders with terrible 
 slaughter in the lao valley, where it was said the dead fell so fast and 
 thick that the waters of the Wailuku were dammed by the bodies. In his 
 triumph here he was planning to overrun Molokai, when word came that 
 affairs at home were getting into bad shape. The brother of his enemy 
 defeated here had captured Hilo and was sweeping away everything before 
 him. 
 
 Returning at once to Hawaii, he made short, if bloody, work in routing 
 
 I
 
 Sinf Boat ai IVaikiki
 
 .«
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 41 
 
 this foe ; but while he was doing it, the Tliumlerer and his followers 
 rallied to I'egain possession of Maui. The next move in this bloody game 
 of conquest was a sea-fight between Kamehameha and his united enemies of 
 Hawaii. This was fought off Waimanu, and owing to the superiority of his 
 arms Kamehameha won a decided victory. He followed this up by the 
 
 most disreputable act of his 
 long and eventful life. Send- 
 ing to Keoua to meet him in 
 friendly conference at Kawai- 
 hae, he tlien caused him and 
 his attendants to be massacred 
 as they were trying to effect a 
 landing. Thereupon Kame- 
 hameha proclaimed himself 
 king of all Hawaii, and there 
 was none to dispute his title. 
 No doubt his enemy would have 
 resorted to the same methods 
 had he been able to make them 
 successful, but it seems none 
 the less a pity that a record 
 otherwise remarkably bright 
 for a heathen sliould have 
 been stained with a deed 
 like this. This was in 1791, 
 and he celebrated his tri- 
 umph by building that year a 
 new heiau at Puukohola, offer- 
 ing the bodies of his cap- 
 tives as sacrifices to his favourite war-god. 
 
 The following year Hawaii was visited by Capt. George Vancouver, who 
 had been with Captain Cook on his second and third voyages. Kame- 
 hameha now learned much more than his American counsellors had told 
 him of the power and grandeur of the Cliristian nations, while he listened 
 Avith wonder and interest to the other's teaching of justice and humanity 
 and his description of the Christian's faith in (ind. Captain Vancouver 
 
 WUNANO BLUFF.
 
 42 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 ^^sited the island three times during 1792-9-4, and there is no doubt his 
 teachings made a deep and abiding impression upon the Hawaiian king, 
 who, if he still clung to his idols and pagan rites, showed afterward a 
 milder spirit in all that he did. 
 
 Captain Vancouver presented him with cattle and sheep and many use- 
 ful plants, but refused to let him have powder and firearms. So favourable 
 an impression was made by this humane navigator that February 25, 1794, 
 Kamehameha and his chiefs voluntarily placed Hawaii under the protec- 
 
 RIDING BULLOCKS. 
 
 torate of Great Britain, and the British flag was raised on the shore of 
 Kealakekua. 
 
 This act, however, did not mean that his spirit of conquest was subdued 
 or that his wars were over, for inside of a year we find him mustering the 
 greatest army the island ever knew. His old enemy Kahekili, king of 
 the leeward islands, worn out with his fighting as much as his years, left 
 his kingdom to be divided between his son, Kalanikupule, ruler of Oahu, 
 and his brother, Kaeo, moi of Maui. Tliis twain straightway went to 
 fighting over their respective domains. By the aid of a couple of English 
 traders. Captains Brown and Gordon, then visiting at Honolulu, Kalani of 
 Oahu defeated his rival and put him to death. Immediately he began to 
 grow jealous of his allies, and having an ambition of his own to rule over
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 43 
 
 all of the islands, he planned to kill them and then, with the ships and a 
 fleet of war canoes, sail to Hawaii to attack Kamehameha. He managed 
 to murder the captains, but in such a Ijungling manner that the sailors 
 escaped with the vessels, going to Hawaii direct, when they turned them 
 over to Kamehameha with all their arras and ammunition. 
 
 This was the conqueror's opportunity, and, assisted by his marshals, 
 he mustered over sixteen thousand warriors, and with the best equipped, 
 as well as the largest army Hawaii liad known, in the spring of 1795 set 
 
 HANALKI RIVER. 
 
 sail with his immense fleet of canoes for Maui. This island was given 
 over to him without a battle, and then he captured Molokai in the same 
 easy manner. 
 
 By this time Kalanikupule had rallied his forces, ten thousand strong, 
 and prepared to make a desperate stand in the Nuuanu Valley, near where 
 the ice-works are now located. Kameliameha reached Waialae Bay the 
 last of April, where he learned that one of his trusted chiefs, who had 
 agreed to meet him there, had deserted him, and with all of his followers 
 joined the enemy. 
 
 Nothing daunted by this, Kamehameha lost no further time in marching
 
 44 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 against his foes, when the two armies met in that deadly grapple which 
 was not only to decide the fates of kings but the whole future of the 
 Hawaiian Islands. The Oahuans proved themselves true to their reputa- 
 tion as fighters, and there, with the cloud-swept cliffs behind, the home- 
 land of Kaulau below them, with the blue sea shimmering through the 
 cocoanuts, and in plain sight of the thatched roofs of their grass houses, 
 they gave their lives in 
 heroic contest for the lost 
 cause. Slowly pressed back 
 toward the pali until on its 
 brink, the survivors, rather 
 than fall into the hands of 
 their enemies, hurled them- 
 selves over the precipice 
 upon the jagged rocks hun- 
 dreds of feet below. 
 
 Again Kamehameha had 
 proved himself the con- 
 queror, and by this victory 
 all of the Hawaiian Islands, 
 except Kauai and Niihau, 
 passed under his sover- 
 eignty. Kaiana, the traitor, 
 had met death from a can- 
 non-ball, and Kalanikupule, 
 finding his warriors com- 
 pletely routed, tried to es- 
 cape by flight ; but he was 
 pursued, overtaken, and captured, to be held as a sacrifice at the heiau 
 at Moanalua. 
 
 According to custom the great victory must be celebrated with adequate 
 ceremonies, and the grandest hookupu (festival during which the people 
 made presents to the king) ever witnessed in Oahu followed. Finding 
 that it was policy to treat their new king with as good grace as possible, 
 the Oahuans became extremely liberal, until the offerings reached an 
 amount and variety which astonished every one, even to Kamehameha. 
 
 m. 
 
 
 1 
 
 w& ^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 IP'' 
 
 L 
 
 ¥■-■"■ 
 
 
 
 1: 
 
 
 ^^WJUffKUL 
 
 r-';^ 
 
 ^^^m 
 
 ^^^^^S 
 
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 ^^m 
 
 
 
 
 
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 «^' ■■■ "'3^^^'"'^ 
 
 *^^yi[HHB^^^BI^Bi^^BB 
 
 
 
 THE XKEDLES, lAO VALLEV. 
 
 i
 
 (
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 45 
 
 But the highest gift was reserved for the last. In the midst of the 
 bustle and confusion, an old man, who had been among the most ac- 
 tive and Ijitter of the island defenders, was seen approaching the 
 altar, or grand stand, leading by the hand a beautiful girl, an ehu 
 (Hawaiian blonde), as a gift to his new king. Not over sixteen years 
 of age, of fair skin, expressive, hazel-brown eyes, tall, perfectly 
 molded figure, and abundant tresses of a glimmering brown mixed 
 
 with threads of gold falling 
 like a gauze veil down the 
 well-rounded shoulders, she 
 was of that matchless type 
 of beauty rarely found even 
 when the best blood of two 
 races blends. A skirt of j-el- 
 low Jiaj^a, embroidered in 
 dark designs of many birds, 
 and rustling like folds of 
 silk, fell from her slender 
 waist to her knees, while 
 her head was wreathed in 
 yellow 00 feathers, and 
 shell bracelets encircled her 
 small wrists. Suspended 
 from her neck, by its three 
 hundred braids of human 
 hair, was the sacred Niho 
 Palaoa, the royal insignia 
 of the gods. Surely never 
 fairer bid for kingly favour was made than this of old Kavari, who 
 hoped to propitiate his new sovereign and thus win back the fortune he 
 had lost by opposing the iron Conqueror. 
 
 Frightened by the sight of so many intent spectators, and realising 
 more than ever her strange position, the maid stood before the king with 
 downcast eyes, wet with tears, and Iwsom rising and falling tumultuously 
 under her great emotion. 
 
 Kamehameha the Great smiled, and he was about to address the aged 
 
 CASCADES.
 
 46 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 chief who came with this human gift, when there was a commotion in the 
 ranks of his soldiers, and a young warrior, who had covered himself with 
 glory in the battle that day, sprang forward to place himself in front 
 of the trembling damsel. 
 
 A low murmur of horror came from the watchful crowd as the daring 
 act was witnessed, for all knew it was death to interfere with the royal 
 will. The dark countenance of the king grew black, and his eyes flashed 
 furiously ; but instead of ordering the young man to be put to death, as 
 the onlookers expected, he demanded of him : 
 
 SCENE OX VOLCANO ROAD. 
 
 " What means this interference, rash youth ? How dare you meddle 
 with the sacred rights of the king?" 
 
 The warrior bowed low, but did not offer to speak. 
 
 "What name, sir?" though Kamehameha well knew. 
 
 " Hakuole, who led the warriors of Kona on the right, my 
 king." 
 
 " So Hakuole, the dauntless, is tired of being a soldier, and prefers 
 the company of women to that of his comrades in arms ? " 
 
 At this humiliating question Hakuole bowed lower, and wisely held his 
 peace, while the king ordered the girl to be led forward. 
 
 " Knowest this foolhardy young man, who chooses the companionship
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 47 
 
 of women to that of warriors ? " he asked of her, who now stood bravely 
 up before hmi. 
 
 " I wore his wreath at the last hula dance before the battle," she 
 replied, modestly, " though father would not remember this." 
 
 Then it must have flashed through the mind of the astute king that 
 behind this bold tableau was a love act, and those nearest imagined they 
 detected a smile under the grim exterior of the Conqueror. But he spoke 
 as sternly as ever, when he next said : 
 
 SULPHUR BANKS, VOLCANO. 
 
 " Hakuole, I command you to listen. To-day you have done that which 
 you knew would bring you the punishment of a displeased king. You 
 have shown yourself a brave officer, now listen to my decree. You are 
 suspended from your official rank for thirteen moons. Go with this girl 
 to her father's estate, which I now bestow upon her children. Away with 
 you, and forget not the judgment of Kamehameha." 
 
 Covered with confusion at this happy and imexpected termination 
 of the affair, the lovers beat a retreat, amid the cheers of their friend.«, 
 and there is no doubt they lived to bless tlie name of Kamehameha, whose
 
 48 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 KAAPENA POOL.
 
 HAWAII. 49 
 
 true character is best illustrated in the little incidents of his long and 
 checkered career. Of course the hookupu was a great success, and the 
 king soon won the confidence and esteem of his new subjects. 
 
 After spending a year in reorganising and strengthening his army, he 
 set out to conquer Kauai, l)ut the elements this time interfered with his 
 plans, and losing many of his canoes and men in a violent tempest off tlie 
 coast of the Garden Isle, he was obliged to return to Oahu. Then an 
 insurrection on Hawaii next took his attention, and he finished his wars 
 in putting that down, though he still dreamed of adding Kauai to his 
 kingdom. 
 
 ■ Kamehameha now turned from warlike to civil affairs, beginning to 
 make many radical changes in the condition and government of the 
 islands. He first divided the lands among his followers, after reserving 
 a generous portion for himself, according to their rank and service. He 
 chose governors for each i-sland, made responsible to him, and empowered 
 them to elect chiefs of districts, heads of villages, and all petty officers, 
 who were held accountable through them to him. He appointed collectoi's 
 of revenue, who, lacking the art of writing, kept their accounts by a method 
 used by the British exchequer in ancient times. He had his board of 
 advisers, who, with the governors, met with him at regular dates, the 
 meetings being held in strict privacy. 
 
 John Young was made governor of Hawaii. In all of his selections 
 to office the king showed remarkable judgment of men, and was seldom, 
 if ever, deceived. So thoroughly did he master every situation and 
 enforce the honesty of his purpose, that crmie became almost unknown, 
 and it was a common saying that '' old men and children could sleep in the 
 highways in safety." He also paid considerable attention to the indus- 
 trial and agricultural interests, doing much in this way to repair the 
 ravages of his wars. 
 
 But an evil had entered his kingdom against which he could not 
 successfully cope. The seeds of disease and intemperance sown by 
 foreigners had developed into a foe which no army could withstand 
 or people combat. In ISOO some Botany Bay con\-icts introduced the 
 method of distilling liquor, and drunkenness at once became very preva- 
 lent. Four A'ears later a pestilence, believed to have been the cholera, was 
 brought from China, and half the poinilation of Oahu fell victims, while
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 e^eeivi^ihere disease and death claimed their victims in overwhelming num- 
 IjbcES. >Such misery and death as the common people had never known now 
 ffMli to* their imhappy lot. 
 
 j')A.t\ this time Kamehanieha had just completed his immense fleet of war 
 cQaaioes, called the peleleu, built for the purpose of invading Kauai, but the 
 tterrtlble disease sweeping over the islands carried off in a few days half of 
 hliHSJiarmy and the majority of his counsellors. The Kauai expedition had 
 ttolfee;, abandoned, never to be considered again by the sobered king, who 
 
 HONOLULU FROM PUNCHBOWL. 
 
 tfcWldlhis remaining soldiers to go into the fields and work. He joined 
 thbeiiai for a time, as not only disease but famine stared them in the face. 
 
 lin^March, 1810, Kaumualii, the last king of Kauai, visited Honolulu in 
 tbbe.'Vknerican ship Albatross, Capt. Nathan Winship, and made a voluntary 
 (OOiQcession of his islands to Kamehameha, who very considerately allowed 
 IjHfflimiityo hold them in fief during his lifetime, on condition of paying tribute. 
 
 iVlbout this time and continuing during the first quarter of the century, 
 thbe ssandalwood trade with foreign markets sprang up. At Canton, 
 GttS&iina, in particular, this fragrant wood was in great demand for incense 
 aaaildtthe manufacture of fancy articles. While the wood lasted it was
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 ■51 
 
 a soiirce of vast profit to the landholders. It was soon almost entirely 
 removed, so it is very seldom found now. 
 
 While attending to the many details of his government with far-seeing 
 foresight, he neglected to adopt a national flag. Witli a feeling of friend- 
 liness toward all foreign countries, England and the United States in 
 particular, he thought it sufficient to fly the flags of these countries as it 
 happened, intending, no doubt, to be fair in the matter. All went well 
 
 FORT STREET, HONOI.UI.r. 
 
 in this way until the War of 1812 had been in progress several months. 
 Then a Yankee privateer, putting into Honolulu, saw with amazement the 
 British flag floating in the breeze. He demanded an explanation, when 
 the king, to prove his friendliness, caused the stars and stripes to be run 
 up in place of the other flag. This satisfied the American, but in a short 
 time an English man-of-war appeared on the scene, and again the king was 
 taken to account. 
 
 Kamehameha was now sorely puzzled, and he thought of flying both 
 flags, until Young and Davis explained to him that two flags of hostile
 
 52 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 countries could not fly from tlie same staff. He was then advised to have 
 a flag of his own, and Young suggested that a compromise be 'made by 
 taking the stars and stripes with the British cross for a field. The next 
 day the new flag was hoisted and every lK)dy pleased. 
 
 During 1815, under the order of Baranoft", the Russian governor of 
 Alaska, Doctor Scheffer, visited Kauai, and urged its aged king to place 
 himself under the protection of Russia, and even went so far as to build 
 a fort at Waimea and hoist the colours of the emijire over it. Upon learn- 
 ing this, Kamehameha sent word for Doctor Scheffer to leave, which he 
 did, and tlie Hawaiian king raised a strong fort on the island in 181 G. 
 
 This year, upon the advice of Young, a fort of stone and embrasure for 
 cannon, with walls about twelve feet high and twenty feet thick, was built 
 at Honolulu. It was nearly square and about three hundred and fifty feet 
 on a side, and stood across what is now Fort Street. Prior to that time 
 the place had been but a fishing-village, with a sandy, treeless background 
 and a fringe of cocoanuts on the seashore. In November, 1820, the court 
 was moved from Hawaii by Kamehameha II., and it became the seat of 
 government for the island states. 
 
 On May 8, 1819, at the ripe age of fourscore years, Kamehameha died 
 at Kaihia, Hawaii, forbidding in liis last illness the usual sacrifice of 
 human beings at his funeral, saving, " The men should be sacred to the 
 king," meaning his son and successor. If belonging to a barbaric race, he 
 was no ordinary man. A shrewd, sagacious organiser and commander of 
 armed forces, he was none the less gifted in executive ability, and he not 
 only consolidated the islands under a strong government, but he fused 
 a rabble of ignorant people and chieftaincies into a united kingdom, and 
 stimulated among liis subjects a patriotism which is felt to this day by 
 their descendants. 
 
 So fearful were the ancient chiefs of Hawaii that some harm might be 
 done their bodies after death, — that their bones be utilised for making 
 fish-hooks or arrow points for shooting mice, — it was the invariable 
 custom for the most faithful of the king's survivors to bear away the 
 remains to some unknown place of sepulture, some dark recess in the 
 volcanic mountains, or to a grave in the sea. Sometimes the ingenuity 
 of the barbaric undertaker devised strange places or methods of conceal- 
 ment. Upon the death of a nuted king of Oahu, some two hundred j-ears
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 53 
 
 ago, the bones were stripped of the flesh, and then entrusted to a careful 
 friend for safe interment. Instead of seeking some hidden spot in the 
 mountains to receive them, he pulverised the bones into a fine powder, 
 which he mixed with tlie poi to be eaten at the funeral feast. The repast 
 over, and asked if he had faithfully done his work, he replied : " Safe, 
 indeed, are the bones of Kaulii. They are hidden in a hundred living 
 sepulchres ; you have eaten tliem ! " 
 
 AROUND KAENA POINT. 
 
 Where tlie bones of Kauieliameha I. rest no man knows. A chief, by 
 tlie name of Hoohdu, was entrusted with the sacred charge, and it is 
 believed he secretly bore the kingly remains to a lonely hiding-place in the 
 hills back of Kailua. Two men met him upon his i-etnrn.and. being asked 
 if they had seen any one going in the direction of the hills that morning, 
 saved their lives by answering " No." Had their reply been diifercnt the 
 ciuestioner Avor.ld have killed them on the spot, that they might not 
 reveal the secret of his errand. This chief left children, and no doubt 
 he entrusted his secret with one of them, according to custom ; but in
 
 54 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 1853, when secrecy was no longer necessary, Kamehameha III. sought 
 this favoured son of Hooluhi, that lie might learn the location of the 
 rude sepulchre of his illustrious ancestor. But he could not persuade 
 the other to reveal the spot, and the secret died with him a few 
 years later. 
 
 HUI.A, UK liAiNCIMIi (..IKLf-. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 «
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ANCIENT HAWAIIAX RELIGION. 
 
 ACCORDING to tlie Hawaiian mythology, preserved by the pj'ieefciifi, 
 who, at least twice during each generation, met in council to coitiih- 
 pare their historic and genealogy meJes. that nothing might bleddiefct 
 or changed, a trinity of gods 
 ruled over the heavens and 
 earth. These were Kane, 
 the supreme author, Ku. the 
 designer and builder, Lono 
 commander of the elements. 
 Through the Hikajjoloa, 
 or imited efforts of the 
 trinity, light was created 
 from darkness, and order 
 brought out of chaos, and 
 three heavens were created 
 for the dwelling-place. This 
 done, they made the earth, 
 sun, moon, and stars. A host 
 of angels to administer to 
 their wants was then created 
 from their spittle. Man in 
 the image of Kane was next 
 made from red earth and the 
 spittle of Kane, Lono bringing from the four quarters of the globe a whSrtiiahli 
 clay for the head. From one of the supreme gods was created womanu. 
 
 The pair were placed in a beautiful paradise, with three rivers runwiingg 
 through it, the waters of life, while on their banks grew inviting fruto^, 
 including the tabued breadfruit-tree and the sacred apple-tree. Legeudds 
 exist telling how man partook of the forbidden fruit, etc. 
 
 55 
 
 lll'.KADKKriT.
 
 56 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Among the angels who had l)een created was one who proved the 
 Lucifer of Hawaiian mythology, and he caused a riot in heaven, by 
 demanding that the newly ordered man should worship him. This Kane 
 would not allow, as angels as well as man had been the creation of the 
 gods. Thereupon, this Kanaloa went to work to make a man after his 
 
 own heart; that is, one who 
 would worship him. Kane 
 seemed to liaA'e no objection, 
 but though Kanaloa did suc- 
 ceed in making a very credit- 
 able looking man, he could 
 not endow it with life. In 
 vain he breathed into its 
 nostrils, and maddened by his 
 failure, he resolved to destroy 
 the man made by the gods. 
 He stole into Paliuli, paradise, 
 as a moo or lizard, and be- 
 guiled the original pair into 
 committing an offence which 
 caused Kane to expel them 
 from the garden. 
 
 This outlawed pair had 
 three sons, the second of whom 
 killed the first. The Hawaiian 
 Cain was named Laka. Ka 
 Pili was the youngest son, 
 whose genealogy is traced 
 through thirteen generations 
 to Nuu, the Hawaiian Noah. A deluge following, Nuu built an ark, and 
 entered it witli his wife, three sons, and a male and a female of every living 
 creature. After the deluge the ark rested on the mountain, overlooking 
 a beaiitiful valley. In his gratefulness Nuu offered a sacrifice to the moon, 
 mistaking it for Kane. That god reproved him for his mistake, but left 
 the rainbow as a token of his forgiveness. The genealogy continues for ten 
 generations before coming to Ku Pule, the Hawaiian Abraham, who takes 
 
 
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 ■^•^^^v''/"^' 
 
 1 . r 
 
 ■ '' s. 
 
 
 '.*'''■ 
 
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 ' j'i^K^ 
 
 ''•^/Z-i'-X ■.''■'■- 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 lEIE VINE.
 
 4 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 57 
 
 IIANAl'Kl'K FALLS, KAUAI.
 
 58 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 for his wife his slave woman, Ahu. Ku Pule established circumcision, and 
 his grandson had twelve children, of whom were descended twelve tribes 
 of men, from one of which, Menehune, came the Hawaiians. 
 
 Hawaii Loa, fourth in descent from this father of the Hawaiian Israel, 
 set sail on the trackless sea, and, guided, by the Pleiades, eventually 
 reached the island of Hawaii, to which he gave his name. Papa, a tabu 
 descendant of this chief, married one Wakea beneath her in rank, and in 
 consequence quarrels embittered their lives. Wakea basked in the smiles 
 of the beautiful Hiua, and the island of Molokai was the result of their 
 embrace. To offset one wrong by another, Papa gave favour to Lua, 
 and she bore the fair Oahu. Hence the names Molokai-Hina and 
 Oahu-a-Lua. 
 
 From Wakea to the Kamehamehas fifty-six generations were told, or 
 twenty-nine to the Maweke, Who reigned in the eleventh century, when the 
 influx from the southern islands made such changes in the religious and 
 political situation of the islands. New gods were introduced by the 
 high priest, Pao, the tabu enlarged and strengthened, and the priesthood 
 made hereditary, and second only to the royal head of government. 
 
 The people were now allowed to mingle less freely in the forms of 
 worship, and the priesthood assumed a more serious and mysterious 
 demeanour. Kanaloa was exalted among the supreme gods, Kane, Ku, 
 and Lono. Pele, the terrible goddess of the volcanoes, was added to the 
 deities, and temples to her worshijj were erected all over the volcanic dis- 
 tricts of Hawaii. She was the most picturesque of the Hawaiian deities. 
 Among her sisters and brothers were Hiiaka, the heaven-rending cloud- 
 holder ; Maole, the fire-eyed canoe-breaker ; Hiiaka-ka, the red-hot moun- 
 tain lifting clouds ; Kapohoikahiola, god of explosion ; Kane-kahili, the 
 thimder god ; and as many more with as weird titles. 
 
 The gods and goddesses named did not command all of the worship of 
 the people, for heiaus were built to the war-gods of kings, when human 
 sacrifices were offered, and humbler temples were reared to the animals, 
 such as the fish, shark, and lizard. Superstition everywhere abounded, 
 sprites and fairies of every description populating the forests, and nymphs 
 and monsters swimming in the waters. No stream or valley or point of 
 land but had its wonderful story of supernatural deeds. The people 
 made their own household gods, and destroyed them when they failed to 
 
 *
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 59 
 
 respond to their satisfaction. It was believed that the spirits of the 
 departed remained to ho\er over their earthly homes, and these shades 
 were objects of prayer. 
 
 The high priest did not have anything to do with these lower deities, 
 the heiau over which he presided being dedicated to the trinity or the 
 war-god of the king, to whom he was next in authority. Assisted by 
 seers, and prophets grown gray in years if not in wisdom, and pretending 
 
 
 
 ■'^'i:r::ia:^' 
 
 'i'» -AfW^'- 
 
 s& .-.'* 
 
 
 
 '!•'• >- 
 v^'^^ 
 
 ..^'^ :-.t 
 
 FERN GROWTH. 
 
 to court the favour of the gods, he was consulted on all matters of grave 
 importance. Sometimes he had charge of the king's war-gods, when he 
 went into the field of battle, many stories being told of such action chang- 
 ing the tide of conflict. 
 
 Ailments of the body were attributed to the displeasure of the gods, 
 witchcraft, or the prayers of some kahuna, or witch-doctor, who had been 
 offended. The kahuna called to minister to the afflicted, first sought to 
 discover the cause of his patient's disorder, and then set himself about 
 counteracting the spell by prayers and incantations. In this way it was
 
 60 
 
 THE FA It EAST. 
 
 believed he sometimes succeeded in transferring the malady to tlie person 
 whose anger had caused it. 
 
 The ancient Hawaiians believed that another person had the power, 
 under certain conditions, to pray him to death. For the kahuna to do this 
 it was necessary that he should possess some article belonging to the vic- 
 tim, such as a lock of his hair, a tooth, nail, or even some of his spittle. 
 For this reason each king had his spittoon bearer, an office entrusted only 
 to some faithful person. 
 
 The Hawaiian heiau ur temple was a walled inclosure of from one to 
 
 UMIIRELLA TREE, COCOANUT ISLAND. 
 
 five acres in extent, laid out in irregular form, the walls sometimes being 
 as high as twenty feet, and ten feet thick. They were rough barriers, 
 occasionally capped with slabs of hewn coral. Inside was a house of sac- 
 rifice, called the luakina, of small dimensions, and Ijuilt of stone or wood. 
 In front of this stood the lele, or altar, a raised stone platform. Beyond 
 the first temple was another sacred to the priest, and within this was 
 a small wicker enclosure called the amu, from whence the kaulas, or 
 prophets, issued their oracles amid a scene of darkness and in a tragical 
 tone of voice. The walls were covered with images of the principal gods, 
 and the other and inner walls were surmounted by lines of stone and 
 wooden idols.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 61 
 
 Dwellings for the high priest and his associates stood near the temples, 
 wliile a house for the king, when seeking consultation at the place, stood 
 a little removed from those of the kaulas. At the entrance to the enclo- 
 sure was an elevated cross, the tabu staff, and near this was a stone build- 
 ing, in which the victims for the altar were slain. 
 
 Human sacrifices were usu- 
 ally offered at the building of 
 a heiau, and when completed 
 they were dedicated with great 
 pomp and ceremou}-, the altar 
 heaped with human bodies. 
 
 The ordinary services at the 
 temples consisted simply of 
 offerings of meats and fruits, 
 with chants and prayers, the 
 people being allowed to join, 
 the male jjortion of the inhabit- 
 ants being often permitted to 
 participate. The women were 
 not admitted, but if denied en- 
 trance to the sacred grounds 
 were exempt from a draft when 
 human lives were required for 
 sacrifice. Desiring an augury, 
 the king would proceed alone 
 or with his high priest to the 
 heiau, asking of the kaulas an 
 answer to his question. If the 
 replies from the amu did not 
 
 meet his expectations other methods were resorted to, such as the shape 
 and movements of the clouds, pigs and fowls were opened that their 
 intestines, believed to be the seat of thought, be examined. Previous to 
 engaging in war, human sacrifices were generally offered, and the first 
 prisoners taken in battle were kept for the altar. The priests numbered 
 the victims, while the "king saw that they were furnished, either from 
 persons held for some misdemeanour or taken wherever they happened 
 
 
 
 f-^M 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 p^aH 
 
 
 r' 
 
 7 ■ ■ J. ' 
 
 
 r^l: 
 
 l' il r 
 
 1 /\i *'.:'•, 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' m 
 
 :^'!, 
 
 
 
 
 sfe^Sj^T '> 
 
 IH^S^ 
 
 WOOD SCENE, VOLCA.NO KO.VU.
 
 62 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 to be found. The victims were slain with ckibs, at the place mentioned, 
 and then laid on the altar to decay. 
 
 There were also temples of refuge, called puuhonuas, on tlie island of 
 Hawaii, one of these being located at Waipoo, where the great heiau 
 existed for many years, known as Paa-kalani. The gates of the puhonuas 
 were guarded by the priests and always open. Any one who succeeded in 
 gaining these retreats was safe from king or priest, be he chief or slave, 
 a warrior escaping from the 
 enemy or a criminal flying 
 from justice. The puhonua 
 mentioned existed until the 
 destruction of the temples and 
 overthrow of paganism in 1819. 
 
 It will be seen from this brief 
 outline that the religion of the 
 early Hawaiians was a strange 
 compound of idolatrous forms 
 and sacrifices founded upon the 
 Jewish account of the creation, 
 fall of man, revolt of Lucifer, 
 the deluge and repopulation of 
 the earth. One of the most 
 important functions of this re- 
 ligion was the tabu, which 
 meant restriction or denial of 
 certain rights and privileges to 
 particular persons at all or different times. It was a command to do or 
 not to do, and it implied, if not expressed, " obey or die." Tliere were 
 three kinds, the religious tabus, the personal or perpetual tabus, and the 
 temporal or incidental tabus. The last was the most pernicious, as it was 
 changeable, and less understood by the inhabitants and the most likely to 
 be unwittingly broken. The others were well understood by the people. 
 
 No one was acknowledged the power of tabu unless he had royal lineage, 
 that is, the blood of nobility flowing in his veins which he could prove by 
 his genealogical record. As a distinguishing feature the king and his 
 priesthood had different colours denoting their tabus, the first being yellow 
 
 HAWAIIAN WITH MASK.
 
 HAWAII. 63 
 
 and the last red. Thus mantles made fruin the feathers of the oo and 
 mamo could be worn only by kings and princes. Capes of a mingling red 
 and yellow were worn by the lower nobility. 
 
 The priesthood claimed everything pertaining to it as sacred, or tabu. 
 The pig running at large but destined to be a part of the regular feast or 
 festival was tabu, while the squid and turtle, with two or three specimens 
 of birds, belonged only to the food of the nobility. 
 
 "Women more especially than the men felt the tabu. No female was 
 allowed to partake of the plantain, banana, or cocoanut, the flesh of swine 
 or certain fish ; under no circumstance was she permitted to eat with men. 
 
 A common tabu, proclaimed by the king's heralds, required simply that 
 the people abandon their daily occupations and attend the services at the 
 heiaus or temples. The religious tabus demanded that not only should 
 work be stopped, but that no person save a priest and his assistants should 
 leave his place of abode ; all fires and lights must be extinguished ; bath- 
 ing for the time given up ; canoeing ended ; all domestic creatures confined 
 or muzzled so as not to break the silence, which was not broken by a 
 word spoken above a whisper. Amid tliis silence and sacrifice the people 
 imagined they were pleasing the gods highly. 
 
 During these tabus notice not to enter the sacred groves, paths or bath- 
 ing-places, the grounds of the temples or the royal residence was given by 
 placing at these places or their entrances the jmuloulou, a tall pole tufted 
 with white or black kapa. General tabus were made to please the gods or 
 in celebration of some important event. They were common or " strict," 
 and included more or less territory, extending in time from one to ten 
 days. 
 
 However foolish or despotic a tabu may seem to have been, it was rarely 
 broken, as those in power deemed it extremely dangerous to permit any 
 laxness on the part of the people, while they considered it as a safeguard 
 against godly wrath and vengeance.
 
 HULA UIKLS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE LAST DEFENDERS OF THE OLD FAIXn. 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA I. had died in tlie faith of his fathers. The Con- 
 queror had been too busy with his wars to give heed to the waning 
 influences of the priests ; too much engrossed in strengthening the 
 temporal powers to give serious thought to the spiritual well-being of his 
 people. But the broken intercourse with tlie foreigners visiting the islands 
 had somewhat affected the belief of the masses. They had seen these 
 strange men openly violate the tabus and not suffer harm ; they had seen 
 them stand erect in the presence of their gods and not be stricken down. 
 So they began to question, and to question was to doubt, the divine origin 
 of that religious code which affected them and not others. 
 
 It was left, however, for a woman to lead in the tearing down of the old 
 walls of barbarism, and leaving the field open to whomsoever happened to 
 come that way. Still this was not done from the purest motives — at least 
 not instigated from love for the people. Upon the death of Kamehameha 
 
 64
 
 A Hawaiian Hula Dancer
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 *
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 65 
 
 I., May 8, 1819, Liholiho, his son, succeeded to the kingship, witli liis 
 father's favourite wife, Kaahumanu, second in authority and guardian of 
 tlie reahn. It was this woman who resolved to free her sex from the 
 bondage of the tabu. 
 
 Thougli given prerogatives which placed her high in position and influ- 
 ence, she found many restrictions placed upon her actions that were irk- 
 some and hard to bear. Some of the mo.st palatable foods were denied 
 
 NATIVES PREPARING FOOD. 
 
 her tlirough these ancient customs; her meeting Avith the foreigners was 
 mai'red by certain religious interdictions, in which she was being continu- 
 ally reminded of the inferiority of her sex. She must have been a bold, 
 ambitious woman who could deliberately set herself about this herculean 
 task. That she Avas equal to anything that she chose to undertake subse- 
 quent events proved. 
 
 She was childless herself, and having no one to turn to in that 
 direction, she first sought the mother of the young king, Keopuolani, who 
 was won over to her support. Then she boldly ajjproached the prime
 
 66 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 !
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 67 
 
 minister, Kalaimoku, and through him she reached the high priest, Hewa- 
 hewa, who claimed descent from the renowned Pao. Though the political 
 wife of the great conqueror, who always approached her with his face to 
 the earth, Keopuolani was weak in her decisions and easily changed in her 
 purpose. Whatever persuasion Kaahumanu used upon the other two, 
 Hewahewa must have yielded from a conviction of his own. He was a 
 thinking man, who had delved deeper than all others into this m3-stery 
 
 BANANA I'ATCH. 
 
 of 2«ig'iii worship, and seen many of its absurdities. But to enter this 
 conspiracy meant more to him than his companions. He had all to lose or 
 gain. Supreme in his present position as the honoured head of a system as 
 old as tradition, to take up this work meant a sacrifice of everything. A 
 faint inkling of the new creed had come to his inquiring mind, and he 
 firmly took his chances with the strong-minded Kaahumanu. 
 
 If the son of a conqueror, like his mother, Liholiho w^as a weakling. 
 His father had so firmly estalilished his power that wars were not looked
 
 68 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 for, and Liliolilio had spent liis youth, not as his father had, in warlike 
 practices, l^ixt in idleness and dissipation. It was this fact, realised by the 
 late king, which had caused Kaahumanii to have been given so much voice 
 in the rule, and, if Liholiho reigned unworthily, the power to assume 
 entire control of the kingdom. 
 
 At the end of his season of mourning, while he tarried away from the 
 royal palace, Kaahumanu sent the young king a message that upon his 
 return she should set the gods at defiance by breaking the tabu. Liholiho 
 had already learned that there was a growing sentiment against certain 
 restrictions, and the high priest had warned him that the power of the 
 priesthood was near its end. Trembling for the result, particularly to him- 
 self, if it should be done, he delayed his return to Kailua as long as possible. 
 
 Finally, on October 1, 1819, he set sail with a fleet of four canoes toward 
 the royal palace, taking passage himself on the foremost and largest of the 
 craft. Around him were his queen, his royal treasurer, and others of note 
 and power in the kingdom. Dreading his arrival at their destination, as it 
 was likely to bring a crisis in affairs, the worried king allowed his little 
 fleet to move leisurely along the coast, the sails being set to catch just 
 enough wind to keep them on their course. Carousings then began in the 
 royal quarters, hula dancers appearing on the exciting scene, their light feet 
 moved to music of drums and rattling of calabashes. Intoxicating liquors 
 were passed from one to another, until such carousals were under way as 
 had never been witnessed on the eight Hawaiian seas. 
 
 In the midst of this drunken revelry the king, not to be outdone, tossed 
 into the water two bottles of liquor, shouting : 
 
 " Drink, Kuula ! drink, Ukanipo ! Let the water-gods be as drunk as 
 men ! " 
 
 " Let us hope the gods may not be hopelessly offended," remarked a 
 companion. 
 
 ^' Then you have not lost faith in the gods, Laanui ? " asked the king. 
 
 '■ Never," replied the surprised attendant, and tlie king dai'ed not 
 continue the conversation. 
 
 Two days later Liholiho appeared at the feast prepared for his reception 
 at Kailua, and the quick-eyed Kaahumanu knew that he was in the right 
 condition to commit some flagrant act against the tabu if shrewdly 
 managed. Once an offence committed, he would be forced to take a bold
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 09 
 
 stand in her favour. Hewahewa was still determined to carry out his part, 
 and Keopuolani was still faithful. Accordingly the king was bantered to 
 drink with the females of the household, and he did not refuse. Tliereupon 
 his mother ate a banana in his presence, and drank the milk of a oocoanut. 
 This caused the desperate monarch to declare that he would openly break 
 the tabu that day. 
 
 " At the feast ? " asked Kaa- 
 humanu. 
 
 " At the feast," he replied. 
 
 " Then you will be greater 
 than your father, and it will be 
 the proudest day Hawaii ever 
 knew," said the crafty schemer. 
 
 But even then the conspira- 
 tors did not dare to allow the 
 king out of their sight, until 
 they all took their seats at the 
 prospective tables, when Liho- 
 liho's courage began to leave 
 him, as he gazed on the wooden 
 images of Kn and Lono just 
 opposite him. In a frenzy he 
 seized a glass of liquor, which 
 he drained at one quaff. Hewa- 
 hewa, believing the critical moment had come, rose, and lifting his hands, 
 said in an impressive voice : 
 
 •' In peace may we eat, one and all, and let our hearts return thanks to 
 the one and only god of all." 
 
 The king listened and his sinking courage re\dved. Rising impetuously, 
 he crossed over to where the women were seated at the table reserved for 
 them, and seated himself by his mother's side. Silence now reigned 
 on every hand, while one and all watched the king, whom they believed to 
 be drunk. Never had the gods been so defied and the offender spared, as 
 far as they knew. Then surprise gave place to horror and consternation, 
 as they saw the king partake of the food prepared for the women. Some 
 of those present hastily left the tables ; others, seeing that the high priest 
 
 \VINK-r.\LM.
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 seemed to sanction the kingly example, watched the scene with breathless 
 interest. 
 
 "■ The tabu is broken ! " some one whispered. Others took up the words, 
 initil passed from lip to lip the cry, " The tabu is broken ! " The murmur 
 swelled in volume to a shout heard beyond the pavilion, and taken up Ijy 
 the crowd outside, was carried to the remotest corner of Kona. 
 
 The royal feast over and the 
 multitude clamorous over the late 
 proceedings, Hewahewa capped the 
 climax by saying : 
 
 " Seeing we have made such a 
 Iwld beginning, my king, we can 
 stop only with the death of the 
 gods and the destruction of the 
 heiaus ! " 
 
 "So be it!" exclaimed the des- 
 perate Liholiho, who was beginning 
 to realise what he had done. " If 
 the gods can punish, we have done 
 enough already to cost us our lives. 
 Down with the gods and let the full 
 measure of their wrath make merry 
 our fates ! " 
 
 First resigning publicly, then 
 and there, his priestly office, Hewa- 
 hewa applied the torch to the 
 sacred temple, and the smoke aris- 
 ing above the smouldering ruins 
 of that day spread until it was wafted from Hawaii to Niihau, until 
 the heiaus, images, and sacred belongings of a religion more than fifteen 
 hundred years old were ashes, and the reverential people of the island 
 kingdom without a religion or the knowledge of a god. 
 
 If a weak king had yielded blindly to this astounding overthrow of 
 religious principles, there were those with belief in the old faith strong 
 enough, and Avith the courage of their convictions bold enough to attempt 
 to stav the tide of events. The leader in this defence was a cousin of the 
 
 BATHING POOL, NUUASU VALLEY.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 71 
 
 king, one Kekuaokalaui, a true Kamehamelia, both in physique and 
 warlike spirit. Standing a full head above the ordinary men in height, 
 there was not a chief in all Hawaii with a more superb figure, and he was 
 as brave and sagacious as he was tall and handsome. Having no taste for 
 the frivolities of the court, and there being no war for him to develop 
 his natural energies and inclinations, he had tunieil his mind to the priest- 
 hood. Beginning by mastering the historic meles, he advanced step by 
 
 WAII-IO LANDING 
 
 step, until he stood next in rank to the high priest, and the equal in 
 every other way to the wise Hewahewa. Younger than the latter, as 
 learned in the esoteric lore and the secret s3rmbols of the religious code, 
 while humane and generous, he was expected to succeed him when the 
 other laid aside the priestly mantle. Kekuaokalani was happy in the 
 companionship of a Avife who appreciated the nobility of his character, 
 and bestowed upon him tlie fvdl wealth of her affections, as she might 
 have worshipped a god.
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 This loyal supporter of the old religion was present at the feast when 
 Liholiho violated the tabu, and he listened with dismay when the kuig 
 decreed the destruction of the temples. With horror in his heart he saw 
 Hewahewa apply the torch to the heiau where they had worshipped 
 together, and the strong man wept, tlirowing himself on the ground, 
 
 and praying that his sight 
 might be blasted before he 
 should be called upon to wit- 
 ness another scene of such 
 desecration. 
 
 Understanding the condition 
 of Liholiho at the time, he 
 found an excuse for him, but 
 Keakuaokalani sought the high 
 priest, believing that he must 
 have acted under some strange 
 power which had rendered liim 
 unaccountable for his actions. 
 His feelings may be imagined 
 when he found Hewahewa not 
 only clear in mind. Ijut with a 
 heart in accord with what the 
 king and he had done. In his 
 anguish he exclaimed : 
 
 " To think that I should 
 
 have lived to hear a high 
 
 priest of the blood of Pao — " 
 
 " I am not the high priest," 
 
 replied Hewahewa, calmly. 
 
 WII.IIWIIOI) TANGLE l).\ VOLCAM 
 
 "I have advised the king td that effect." 
 
 " Then the vacant place is mine," said Kekuaokalani. 
 
 " By whose appointment ? " 
 
 " The trinity of gods, whose temples you have turned to ashes," an- 
 swered Kekuaokalani, starting in the direction of the pavilion. Upon 
 reaching the place he lifted from the ruins the mutilated and dis- 
 honoured image of the god Lono, and with the grim form upon his
 
 !
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 / o 
 
 shoulders he marched defiantly past the king's niansiuu and dis- 
 appeared. 
 
 During the week that followed, the work of destruction to tlie temples 
 went on, with here and there nnitterings against the wholesale slaughter. 
 From these scattered and dissatisfied opposers, largely the i)riests who had 
 been suddenly wrested of their 
 fat offices, a formidable con- 
 spiracy was formed to reinstate 
 the whole. The people might 
 be willing to give up the tabu 
 at the word of a capricious 
 king, but the priesthood would 
 not consent to see their craft 
 robbed of its ancient glory. 
 Idols of all sorts were snatched 
 from the burning heiaus, and 
 around the desecrated gods a 
 thousand excited and maddened 
 persons gathered to reiterate 
 their allegiance to the old 
 faith, and fight for it if need 
 be. 
 
 Liholiho was inclined to treat 
 the reports of the rebellion 
 lightly, until Hewahewa pointed 
 out to him that Kekuaokalani 
 would naturally become the 
 leader. 
 
 " Then take forty warriors 
 and bring him a prisoner to Kailua," ordered the king. 
 
 "It may be tried, my king," said Hewahewa, "but not forty times 
 forty warriors can bring Kekuaokalani here a prisoner. Let liim alone ; 
 it would but excite the multitude. Without liiiu the rcvoU will anuniiit 
 to nothing ; with him it means war." 
 
 "Let him l)e bribed to peace, since you will liave it so." 
 
 "Only one bribe can i)urclia.se Kekuaokalani." 
 
 ox nil, i.u.\.i> I i;o.M 1111.(1 In THE volcano.
 
 74 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 " And that ? " asked the king, hopefully. 
 
 " Must be the rebuilding of the heiaus and the restoration of the tabu." 
 
 Lilioliho was silenced. However, preparations for war were begun, and 
 a few days later the royal army, numbering nearly two thousand warriors, 
 moved toward the district of Kaawaloa, where the rebels had made their 
 headquarters. 
 
 As Hewahewa had predicted, Kekuaokalani had been made leader of 
 the insurgents, and believing that he had been selected by the will of the 
 
 XlOAll TIIK TALI. 
 
 outraged gods for their defence, he acted with such energy and enthusiasm 
 that within a short time he found himself at the head of a force scarcely 
 inferior to that of the king. He had good reason to believe in a fulfilment 
 of his dreams, and with the stern incentive that sent these warriors to 
 battle, the fate of the line of Kamehameha was seriously threatened. 
 
 A' few days later the rebels met and put to rout the royal army. It 
 was now the season of tabu, the five days between the wmter solstice and 
 the new year sacred to festivities to Lono. and at a heiau near Kaawaloa 
 that he had saved from destruction, Kekuaokalani offered renewed sacri- 
 
 p 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 /O 
 
 fices to the gods and pra3ed for liiial triumph. The king now made over- 
 tures of peace, which were candidly considered, but as no promise of what 
 he was fighting for was given he sadly shook his liead. 
 
 ''Then," said Keopuolani, the king's mother, who had been selected for 
 this delicate mission, with sorrow, " I must say to Liholiho that Kekuao- 
 kalani will have nothing but 
 war ? " 
 
 " Not so, honoured mother 
 of pi'inces," replied Kekuao- 
 kalani, in a tone of deep re- 
 spect, and so impressive that 
 the listeners were awed. 
 " Say to Liholiho that Keku- 
 aokalani, the last of the high 
 priests it may be, prefers to 
 die in defence of the 2;ods in 
 whose service he has devoted 
 his life. If they are what he 
 believes them to he, their 
 temples will ri.se again ; if 
 they are not, then lie wislies 
 to hide his disappointment 
 under the green sward." 
 
 That very night he 
 mai'ched his army in the 
 direction of Kailua, and the 
 next morning the hostile 
 forces met at Kuamoo. 
 Forming his men in battle 
 line, Kekuaokalani sent his high priest to tlie front with several newly 
 made gods, and he delivered an impassioned address to his warriors, 
 calling upon them in terms of burning eloquence to defend with their 
 lives the gods of their fathers. 
 
 The royal army was now led by Kalaimoku, the prime minister, but so 
 heroically did the rebels fight that the battle opened in their favour, and 
 would doubtless have ended in the total annihilation of the king's forces 
 
 8ERIE.S OF CASCADES.
 
 76 THE KAIi EAST. 
 
 liad it not been for their superiority of weapons, having many firearms, 
 and the assistance of some foreigners. His warriors finally breaking in a 
 panic before the deadly fire of a battalion of musketeers, Kekuaokalani, 
 already seriously wounded, rallied them under cover of a stone wall. 
 Here such a desperate stand was made that again it looked so they were 
 to gain the victory. But this situation was near the shore, and a squadron 
 of double canoes under command of Kaahumanu appeared on the scene at 
 the opportune moment. These warriors sent such a volley of shot from 
 the rear that the insurgents were obliged to scatter, never to rally again. 
 The few who managed to escape fled to the hills. Kekuaokalani, whose 
 tall form had been everywhere present in the brunt of the fight, was 
 struck by a stray shot, and fell with a bullet in his heart. As he expired 
 a woman's voice rang out above the medley of cries, and the dead priest's 
 wife, who had hovered near the scene and herself rendered many effective 
 blows, sprang to his side. A bullet at that moment pierced her temple, 
 and she dropped lifeless on the body of her husband. 
 
 The first to reach them was Kalaimoku, who said impressively, as he 
 gazed on the noble features of the dead priest : 
 
 "Truly, since the days of Keawe, a grander Hawaiian has not lived 
 than Kekuaokalani." 
 
 In this manner died the last defenders of the Hawaiian gods, and they 
 sleep where they fell on the battle-field of Kuamoo. A rude monument 
 fittingly symbolising their wild natures marks the spot, and the Hawaiian 
 passing the place to-day bows reverently, believing that kona, the south 
 wind, attunes itself to a mournful requiem for the departed ones who died 
 so bravely for the lost cause.
 
 I-AUIIAI-A (11! ^^eHK\^ I'AI-M. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MISSIONARV WORK. 
 
 INCIDENTS of little iiiuiiient in tliemselves often lead to important and 
 wide-spread consequences. A .small hoy. dusky-skinned, brown-eyed, 
 clad in scanty raiment, and a stranger in a strange land, found on the 
 doorsteps of a resident graduate of Yale College, proved a messenger to 
 awaken the church of New England to the condition of the inhabitants of 
 the Sandwich Islands as no one else had. Between his sobs he told in 
 broken language a pathetic tale of the .sacrifice of parents to the rites of a 
 pagan people, of his flight with a young brother and two friends to save 
 themselves from a similar fate, of the capture and putting to death, before 
 their eyes, of his little brother, of the final escape of himself and com- 
 panions, who managed to conceal themselves on an American vessel, and 
 eventually reached this country. A Mr. Duight, who listened to this 
 story with great interest, took the three under his charge, teaching them 
 the English, language, and in turn learning all he could of the island king- 
 dom. This boy, Opukaliaia, did not live to see his dream of freeing his
 
 78 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 people realised, but his two friends, ten years later, at the very time the 
 last defenders of the old religion of Hawaii were meeting their tragic 
 fates, were among a little congregation of courageous men and women 
 organised in Park Street Church, Boston, with the express purpose of 
 carrying the light of Christianity to the benighted race. 
 
 This little band, besides the two young Hawaiians, Kamoree and Hopu, 
 was composed of nineteen persons, two young graduates of Andover 
 Theological Seminary, Hiram Bingham and Asa Thurston, Dr. Thomas 
 
 LAVA LAKE. 
 
 Holman, Samuel Ruggles, a teacher, Sanniel ^Yllitney, a mechanic, Daniel 
 Chamberlain, a farmer, and Elisha Loomis, a printer, all witli their wives, 
 and five children belonging to Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlain. Tliis party 
 left Boston on the brig Thaddeiis, October 23, 1819, and, after a six 
 months' voyage around Cape Horn, on March 31, 1820, the snow-clad 
 peaks of Mauna Kea rose before the vision of the weary seafarers. 
 
 They were received by the foreign popvdation of the islands with opjio- 
 sition, but the king granted the missionaries permission to tarry a year. 
 Mr. Bingham, assisted by his laymen, Messrs. Loomis and Chamberlain.
 
 HAWAII. 79 
 
 began work at Oahu. Soon the printing-press of the former was ruu- 
 ning, and the first spelling-books for these people were printed. Messrs. 
 Ruggles and Whitney went to Kauai, where a chapel and school were soon 
 built, the king and his chiefs being among their first pupils both in the 
 teachings of church and school. Rev. Asa Thurston and Doctor Holman, 
 with their wives, settled at Kailua, on the island of Hawaii, which historic 
 spot is still pointed out to the newcomer as one of great interest. 
 
 The Hawaiians were peculiarly well situated to receive the doctrines 
 of the teachers of the new faith. They have always been, indeed, quick 
 to grasp any form of knowledge, and the missionaries found fertile fields 
 for their religious cultivation. The little handfid of religious workers in 
 four years found as many thousand earnest converts. Among the first 
 to accept the new faith was the chiefess, Kapiolani, who was six feet tall 
 and with the haughty air of the ancient nobility. Knowing better than 
 the missionaries the depth of the superstition wliich still lingered in tlie 
 hearts of the people, she resolved to teach them a lesson they would not 
 soon forget. Tlius she planned a visit to the crater of Kilauea, the abode 
 of the goddess Pele, then most feared and revered by the connnon 
 masses. A party of curious, excited watchers, with awed looks and 
 trembling steps, followed her to the sa«red spot. 
 
 As she drew near the dwelling of the fiery goddess, she was met by 
 the priestess of Pele, who demanded her errand. Upon telling her object, 
 without revealing the real motive prompting it, and quoting passages 
 from the Scripture, she was forbidden to proceed. At the In-ink of the 
 crater she was met by a missionary, Mr. Goodrich, who had caused a 
 shelter to be built for her, where the brave chiefess passed the night. In 
 the morning, accompanied by the missionary and several believing Ha- 
 waiians, with half a Inmdred doubters lingering near by, she descended 
 into the crater to a place called the " black ledge," where she i^aused in 
 sight of the seething fire. In her hand she carried a bunch of ohelo 
 berries, held sacred to the goddess. These berries she deliberately ate 
 in plain sight of the amazed spectators, and threw the stones into the 
 burning lake, crying : 
 
 " Thus do I defy thee, Pele ! Jehovah is my God. He kindles 
 these fires and he preserves me in breaking your tabus." 
 
 Then, while the awestricken beholders looked on in silence, a hynni of
 
 80 
 
 ^PHE FAR EAST. 
 
 praise was sung, when all knelt in humble recognition of the great 
 creator of the universe. Kapiolani's brave act served to a considerable 
 extent to remove the superstition, though it was impossible to destroy at 
 once the belief of ages. It was made the occasion of a poem by Tennyson. 
 Other missionaries, from time to time, followed the pioneers we have 
 mentioned, conspicuous among them being the Rev. Titus Coan, a native 
 of the state of Connecticut, New England, who with his young wife 
 landed at Hilo in the early part of 1835. He immediately took charge 
 of the district on the eastern coast of Hawaii, covering a territory a 
 
 VIEW NEAR HILO. 
 
 hundred miles in length. Horses in those days were not numerous, nor 
 had the few there been trained to domestic use, so he had to go on foot 
 through pathless forests, or by canoe along streams winding through 
 intricate wildernesses, often at great peril. During the first year he 
 made a complete circuit of the island, a journey of over three hundred 
 miles. He converted fifteen thousand persons during his lifetime. 
 
 Rev. Thomas Lyman, who had been in Hilo a few years before the 
 arrival of Mr. Coan, lent his assistance toward establishing a station at 
 that place, and so great and wide-spread was the revival that the natives 
 flocked thither from all parts of the island, until their grass and banana 
 huts clustered as thick as they could stand for a mile back from the
 
 o 
 a 
 s 
 o 
 
 H 
 B 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 b: 
 
 o 
 < 
 
 S5 
 
 o
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 81 
 
 seashore. Hilo's population increased fruiii one to ten thousand at once. 
 This big cauip-meeting continued for two years. 
 
 As neither houses nor churches had seats at that time, the seekers 
 after the baptism were seated in long rows on the ground, facing each 
 other, the missionary passing along between them, sprinkling their bowed 
 lieads on one side and then on the other, until he had gone the entire 
 length, when he pronounced these words: ''I now proclaim you all 
 
 >IAMI>M> IIKAII. 
 
 baptised in tlie name of the Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost." This was 
 repeated until the last row had Ijeen taken into the church. It is a pleas- 
 ant fact to record that less than a quarter of a century later these same 
 little hamlets had settled over them ministers from their own race, and 
 neat little wooden buildings had taken the places of the grass huts and 
 open-air churelies. 
 
 A thrilling incident occurred during this protracted revival which lixcd 
 itself indelibly on the minds of the missionaries, while giving terror 
 to the hearts ol" the superstitious natives. On November 7, 1837,
 
 THE FAU EAST. 
 
 Mr. Coan and his colleague had preached to audiences of from five 
 to seven thousand, four sermons as usual, and the former was just 
 returning from the funeral of a Hawaiian child, when, without any pre- 
 vious warning, the placid ocean suddenly upheaved, lifting gigantic wave 
 after wave upon the shore ; these, following each other with the speed of 
 race-horses, swept the coast for a long distance back, carrying men, women, 
 children, dogs, houses, canoes, — in short everything movable, — off on their 
 foaming breasts. Wildest excitement imaginable reigned, the shrieks of 
 
 the hapless persons and crea- 
 tures drowned by the roar of 
 the billows. It was well then 
 the struggling j^eople in the 
 embrace of the angry elements 
 belonged to an amphibious race, 
 or many more must have been 
 drowned than were. Still, stout 
 swimmers were carried far out 
 to sea, and, in spite of the ready 
 assistance of friends and des- 
 perate efforts to escape, quite a 
 number were lost. The cres- 
 cent-shaped sand-beach, with 
 its fringe of palms and shady 
 groves just beyond, the most 
 beautiful spot on the island, 
 was a scene of ruin and desola- 
 tion. Mr. Coan, in speaking 
 of the awful event afterward, said that the opening crash sounded as if 
 " a mountain had fallen on the beach." 
 
 Among those who w^ere converted by Mr. Coan was an old man whose 
 wife had been dead some time, and who entrusted to his care a young son. 
 One night after his father's conversion the little boy was awakened by the 
 tears of his aged relative falling on his face. In answer to his inquiries, 
 lie was told that the other was weeping that he umst soon leave him alone 
 in tlie world. Then, after this good old man had besought the love and 
 grace of the new-found God for liis child, liis spirit took its llight, leaving 
 
 FEHX TREE. 
 
 f 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 83 
 
 the crying boy alone with the silent body. The following morning kind 
 relatives took him to live with them, and his father's remains were borne 
 to rest in one of the cavern graves. At twelve years of age this boy for 
 the first time listened to one of Mr. Coan's sermons, was converted, and at 
 fifteen was preaching the gospel in his native tongue. He afterward 
 became a student at the theological school at Honolulu, and was ordained 
 as a minister October 3, 1888. He helped translate the gospel hymns 
 into his native language. The name of Samuel Kapu is now well known 
 
 ITI.IOIKX I, I.AX AI 
 
 as a benefactor among his people. This is but one of many examples 
 of the kind. 
 
 July 7, 1827, Roman Catholic missionaries arrived at Honolulu. They 
 were members of the '" Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and 
 Mary." Through a misunderstanding, trouble soon arose, and tlie king, 
 believing they were trying to create a division among the people, ordered 
 them to leave the islands in January, 1832. Seven years later the French 
 government sent a frigate to Honolulu, and eompelled Kamehameha HI. 
 to allow some Catholic priests to land. Catholicism soon gained a foot- 
 hold, and to-day there are not far from twenty-five thousand belonging to 
 that church on the islands, and in 1898 sixty-two churches and chapels.
 
 84 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 In 1862 an English Reformed Catholic mission was sent to the islands, 
 and, meeting with favoiir from Kamehameha IV., who was not in as much 
 sympathy with the Protestants as his predecessors had heen, prospered, 
 and lias since attracted interest, and is regularly established. 
 
 The entire number of the 
 Protestant missionaries sent 
 to the islands, clerical and 
 lay, with their wives, has 
 been one hundred and fifty- 
 six. The cost of these mis- 
 sions, up to 1862, was borne 
 by the American Board of 
 Missions, when it withdrew 
 tlie financial support it had 
 been generously giving the 
 missionaries for forty years. 
 Of the several religious de- 
 nominations which prevail, 
 the Congregationalists are 
 the most numerous and 
 powerful. Besides these 
 there is an Episcopal, a 
 Methodist Episcopal, and a 
 Christian church in Hono- 
 lulu, and a couple of Mor- 
 mon churches. Together the 
 Protestants have over a 
 hundred churches and a 
 membership of about forty 
 thousand. 
 
 Though labouring in a 
 the early missionaries led 
 
 NATIVE SHRIMP CATCHER. 
 
 Paradise, 
 
 field not inappropriately styled 
 devoted and often heroic lives. They proved to be more than the 
 advisers and promulgators of tlie spiritual welfare of the natives, but 
 became tlieir temporal counsellors, as well as preachers, and helped 
 to establish a civil government capable of protecting the acquired rights
 
 HAWAII. 85 
 
 of the inhabitants. Thus the term missionary in Hawaii is used in 
 a broader sense than elsewhere in the world. The first Kamehameha 
 laid the corner-stone of a consolidated government ; his successor 
 placed another milestone on tlie historic road when he abolished the 
 tabus, tore down the temples, and Ijurned the idols ; and above these 
 still smoking ruins the missionaries raised the finger-board of religious 
 guidance to the people without a god, teaching them, also without lands, 
 homes or family ties, that the homestead was the seat of prosperity and 
 that the home was the highest kingdom on earth. 
 
 Attempts have been made to rob them of much of the credit of their 
 work, and to ascribe selfish motives to them. That they may have erred 
 in minor matters is true, but along the unswerving line of human prog- 
 ress they made a record well worthy of study. Coming of old Puritan 
 stock, the missionaries, perhaps prematurely, made a determined effort to 
 transplant New England ideas of civilisation upon tlie indolent, careless; 
 population of a clime whose every influence was antagonistic to active 
 duties. Singularly enough, their most bitter enemies came not from the 
 people they were working to uplift, but from those who, like themselves, 
 were aliens in the land. Many of these were those who fattened upon the 
 harvest of the spoils coming from that race which fell easy victims to the 
 vices as well as converts to the virtues of civilisation. Whatever faults 
 may be found with them, — and if man were created perfect there would be 
 no calling fur missionaries, — it is certain that a new era dawned upon the 
 island kingdom on that March morning in 1820, when tlie little band of 
 New England pilgrims landed on the shores of benighted Hawaii.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE HAWAIIAN MAGNA CHARTA. 
 
 WHATEVER may l^e the natural resources of a country, or how- 
 ever great its possibilities, its progress in education and govern- 
 ment depends in a very considerable measure upon its political 
 influences. This part of the history of Hawaii is a checkered one. If 
 there have been no sanguinary wars of bloodshed, there have been stirring 
 revolutions and many critiqal situations when the fate of the islands 
 swuno- in the balance of a precarious power. First taught by American 
 missionaries, and developed under the influences of New England independ- 
 ence, the people naturally partook of puritanical and democratic ideas of 
 government, tempered by the prevailing atmosphere of a tropical climate. 
 
 It is the inevitable fate of a barbaric race to fall before tlie civilised 
 power entering its domains. The result of civilisation to the Hawaiians, 
 as well meant as it was, proved pathetic and tragical, bringing the deso- 
 lation of empty huts and deserted villages on hillside and in valley. In 
 a little over a century four hundred thousand simple people, strong in 
 physique but weak in knowledge, naked but not ashamed, godless but 
 without a fear, fell victims to greeds and vices hitherto unknown to them, 
 until less than one-eighth of that number represented the picturesque race. 
 Fewer feet trod each year the silvery sands of the coral-banded shores, less 
 frequent and fainter have come their soft-spoken alohas, — national greet- 
 ing, "love to you," — until it seems that the Hawaiian in a few years 
 more will live only in the memory of the Kamehamehas and the legends 
 of a vanished day. 
 
 Several reasons are advanced as an excuse for this decay of the people. 
 The gravest of them has Iieen the charge of infanticide. If that charge 
 were true Hawaii would li;ive been depopulated a long time ago, according 
 to the evidence furni.^hed. But before the advent of the white man the 
 islands were so densely populated that artificial means had to be adopted 
 to support the inhal)itants. Ponds were built for the storing of fish, and 
 
 so
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 87 
 
 tracts enclosed by stone walls on the mountainsides, where families were 
 obliged to raise more than they needed for their own consumption that 
 they might help to feed others. Now these one-time centres of life and 
 activity are scenes of solitude. The wild vine creeps over the crinnbled 
 wall and the unapproachable lantana covers the spot where the tribal circle 
 congregated, while the hills and valleys, spanned by a line of ten thousand 
 men who passed from hand to 
 hand the blocks of lava stone 
 to build one of their temples, 
 are now overgrown by an im- 
 penetrable Hawaiian forest. 
 The burdens of civilisation 
 proved too heavy for the slug- 
 gish Hawaiian, and he was 
 crushed by their weight. 
 
 A well-known missionary, in 
 speaking of this candidly, said : 
 "The people, like all savages, 
 proved very susceptible to con- 
 tagious diseases and the vices 
 of civilisation. The measles, 
 brought here from California 
 in 1848, alone claimed one 
 in every ten. The smallpox, 
 which also came from Cali- 
 fornia, five years later, did an 
 equally awful work, in spite of 
 all that could be done to pre- 
 vent it. Thus, disease after 
 disease did its dreadful part, 
 
 until the leprosy, a legacy from China, added the last and most horrible 
 chapter to the history of the doomed race." 
 
 With a greater devastation than that wrought by the epidemics, from 
 the seeds of lust and drunkenness sown by the white men sprang a blight 
 which completed the desolation of the field. If the Hawaiian fell an easy 
 victim to the vices of others, whose is the blame ? But it has been well 
 
 SCKKW I'ALM OK PANDANUS.
 
 r 
 
 88 
 
 THE FAll EAST. 
 
 said that he dies the easiest of any mortal. Let him but imagine he has 
 any disease and it amounts to the same, fixed on his mind as on his con- 
 stitution, — he dies! Let him think he is being prayed to death, and he 
 sets himself about to answer the prayer. Let some malicious person but 
 name the day of his demise, and he did not fail to respond punctually. 
 He did it, too, in the most cheerful mood, with a song on his lips and 
 aloha in his heart. 
 
 Still formerly, if not now, the Hawaiian lived to an age not inferior 
 
 IlIKTIIPI.At'F. OK I'ltlXfESS IMTII. HAWAII. 
 
 to ours, though the youthfulness of the features and the suppleness 
 of the figure too speedily gave way to the wrinkled skin in the first 
 case and the fat, squat form in the other. Until very recently it was not 
 uncommon to meet individuals who remembered well the massacre of 
 Captain Cook and other as well authenticated incidents in history, which 
 would prove that in the past generation many lived to the allotted three 
 score years and ten. Their simple mode of living, out-of-door exercise, free- 
 dom from care, the calm of their surroundings, the favourable climate, all 
 tended, barring accidents or unnatural deeds, to give them long life and
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 89 
 
 perfect health and bodies. Given a gra.ss hut for shelter, a pile of lauhula 
 mats, calabashes or shells for dishes and cupboards, poi for food, and the 
 Hawaiian lived and dreamed in contentment, happy, though he knew 
 it not, to have escaped the unrest of civilisation. In the scenes to be 
 described this continually waning influence of the native element in 
 government should Ije borne in mind. 
 
 As has been shown in the religious history, a most despotic feudal 
 system of land tenure had 
 existed in Hawaii for cen- 
 turies. The peasantr}', com- 
 mon people, could not Ije 
 said to have had any per- 
 sonal rights. Upon Kame- 
 hameha's conquest the most 
 rigid application of this 
 principle was carried out, 
 which meant to his defeated 
 enemies loss of all political 
 power and wealth of lands, 
 which was the basis of sucli 
 power. At first the island 
 of Kauai, through the suc- 
 cessful resistance of its kino-. 
 and then his diplomacy with 
 the Conqueror, e.scaped this 
 fate ; but a rebellion insti- 
 gated by his son being un- 
 successful, the insurgent chiefs were subjected to a confiscation of their 
 lands and the annihilation of their political power. Thus the Conqueror 
 placed hmiself at the head of this ancient tenure for the entire group. 
 This faofc is borne out by the land commission in 1847, which says at 
 o])ening: 
 
 "When the islands were conquered by Kamehameha T. he followed the 
 example of his predecessors and divided the lands among his principal 
 warrior chiefs, retaining, however, a portion in his hands to be cultivated 
 or managed by his own immediate servants or attendants. Each principal 
 
 
 Im*'* ^^^^ 
 
 H 
 
 
 .^tffl^B^^^vCfli 
 
 1^3 
 
 
 Hr^ 
 
 H| 
 
 ^H 
 
 mM 
 
 H 
 
 ^^^^^^ifia^.r 
 
 m 
 
 H 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^1^^ ^- 
 
 ^yl 
 
 ■ 
 
 ws^ 
 
 »•■',;,, , ■ - 
 
 ^j3m 
 
 WAIIIA ^AI.1.^
 
 90 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 chief divided his lands anew, and gave out to an inferior order of chiefs or 
 persons of rank, by whom they were sub-divided again and again, passing 
 through the hands of four, five, or six persons, from the king to tlie lowest 
 class of tenants. All these persons were considered to have rights in the 
 lands or productions of them. The proportions of these rights were not 
 very clearly defined, but were, nevertheless, universally acknowledged." 
 
 Kamehameha I. lived long enough and ruled firm enou^rh to settle the 
 matter favourably to permanent individual rights in lands. Upon be- 
 coming king, Liholiho, as Kamehameha II., desired to make a redistri- 
 
 I 
 
 DATE PALM AVENUE, HOSPITAL GROUNDS. 
 
 bution according to custom, but the ambitious Kaahumanu, with the 
 existing landed interests working for her, defeated this scheme, and the 
 old distribution of land made by the Conqueror in 1795 remained practi- 
 cally unchanged, though slightly modified, Tintil 1845. and during that 
 period of over forty years the sovereign held a feudal authority over the 
 entire landed estate of the kingdom, though exercised with decreasing 
 oftenness. 
 
 In 1820 Liholiho moved his court to Honolulu, which proved a wise 
 course of action. Anxious to broaden his ideas with those of other 
 powers, November 27, 1823, the king and his queen went to England,
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 91 
 
 where the}' were courteously received ; but the party was attacked with 
 tlie measles and the king and queen both died. The frigate Blonde, com- 
 manded by Lord Byron, a cousin of the poet of that name, was commis- 
 sioned to convey tlie remains of the unfortunate king and queen, with 
 their retinue, to their native land. This ship reached Honolulu May 6, 
 182u, wlien the bodies of the royal couple were placed in a mausoleum, 
 amid impressive funeral ceremonies. 
 
 Kamehameha II. having died without naming his successor, a young 
 brother, Kauikeaouli, then l)ut ten years old, was proclaimed king under 
 
 MANGOKS. 
 
 the title of Kamehameha III., wliile Kaahumanu became regent and 
 prime minister. 
 
 In I82G Commodore Jones of the Peacock visited the islands and 
 concluded the first treaty with the United States. The following year 
 the first written laws were issued against theft, gambling, adultery, 
 and murder. 
 
 June 5, 1832, Kaahumanu, who had so long been such an important 
 person in the management of affairs, and who had so persistently clung 
 to old traditions in some respects while seeking to destro}- others, died, 
 and was succeeded by the king's half-sister Kinau. The king's minority
 
 92 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 was declared to Ije at an end in March, 18o3, when he assumed the head 
 of the government. Though but a youth of twenty, he immediately 
 interested himself in public affairs, particularly toward the land matters. 
 The situation of the common people was now not only defenceless, but 
 pitiable. Under the existing condition the utterance of two Hawaiian 
 words, Ua jkiu (thou art dispossessed), might take from hundreds of 
 people, innocent of any greater wrong than offending a capricious land 
 agent, their lands and homes. The king could not well escape the growing 
 responsibility resting on his shoulders. The result was that, on the 7th 
 
 iioxoLri.f IN" l>;l(l. 
 
 day of June, 1839, a golden date in Hawaiian history, he proclaimed the 
 famous Declaration of Rights, the Magna Charta of Hawaii, which made 
 his name respected. In the words of Sanford B. Dole : 
 
 " This document, though showing in its phrases the influence of Anglo- 
 Saxon principles of liberty, of Robert Burns, and tlie American Declaration 
 of Independence, is especially interesting and impressive as the Hawaiian 
 Magna Charta, not wrung from an unwilling sovereign by force of arms, 
 but the free surrender of despotic logic of events, by the needs of his 
 people, and by the principles of the new civilisation that was dawning 
 on this land."
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 93 
 
 The Declaration of Riu:lits. which guaranteed religious liberty and 
 formed the first step toward establishing individual ownership of land, 
 was followed Ijy the first written constitution on October 8, 1840. A 
 legislature, consisting of a House of Hereditary Nobles, and Representa- 
 tives to be elected l)y the people, was instituted, and provision made for a 
 Supreme Court. 
 
 But, with the rights of the common people undefined, and no precedent 
 to be the guide in carrying out the professed principles of the ownership 
 of lands, the king was assailed on every hand by storms of dis[)iites 
 
 liATIlKHING SUGAR CANE. 
 
 and abuse. The English and French consuls rivalled each otlier in har- 
 assing him with pett\ grievances generally instigated by themselves. 
 
 In 1839 the Laplace episode took place, when the French, in the hope 
 of making an excuse to seize the whole group of islands, made unwar- 
 ranted demands on the king, and as security for future good behaviour 
 called for a deposit of $20,000. To the chagrin of the French, American 
 merchants furnished the requisite sixm, and the oppressed king was allowed 
 a brief respite. That year, in the rush to get possession of lan^ls, Messrs. 
 Ladd k Co., of the United States, the pioneers in sugar cultivation, secured 
 a franchise which gave tliem the privilege to lease for a hundred years
 
 94 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 any unoccupied lands at a low rental. These rights were transferred to 
 a Belgian colonisation, and, tliough the original party remained in the 
 company, the king found himself involved in difficulties that were thorns 
 in Hawaiian politics for several years. The plots continuing to thicken, 
 in 18-42, the British consul, Richard Charleton, took his turn at trying to 
 involve the island government in troubles that would give him a pretext 
 to claim the islands in the name of Great Britain. He made demands for 
 lands that the king considered illegal, and was refused. In the midst of 
 this difficulty, Sir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany's territory, arrived at the islands. He advised Kamehameha IH. 
 to send an embassy each to the United States, Great Britain, and 
 France, to obtain, if possible, some acknowledgment of his sovereignty. 
 Rev. William Richards, formerly an American missionary, Sir George 
 Simpson, and a native chief named Haalilio were appointed on the first 
 commission. 
 
 No sooner were these commissioners started than Charleton, leaving as 
 deputy behind him a nephew of Lord Simpson, but with none of the other's 
 honesty, departed for England. On liis way liome Charleton met Lord 
 George Paulet, captain of the British frigate Carysfort. who listened to the 
 consul's scheme with favour, and hastened at once to the island kingdom, 
 to make demands he knew the besieged king could not meet. As an 
 alternative he asked for the immediate cession of the islands, or he would 
 declare war in the name of Great Britain and open fire on the Hawaiian 
 capital. In this dilemma King Kamehameha issued the following pathetic 
 proclamation : 
 
 " Where are you, chiefs, people, aiul commons from my ancestors, and 
 people from foreign lands ? 
 
 " Hear ye ! I make known to you that I am in perplexity l^^^ reason of 
 difficulties into which I have been brought without cause, therefore I have 
 given away the life of our land. Hear ye ! but my rule over you, my peo- 
 ple, and your privileges will continue, for I have hope that the life of 
 the land will be restored when my conduct is justified. 
 
 " Done at Honolulu, Oahu, this 25th day of February, 1843. 
 
 '• Kameiiasieha III. 
 " KEK.iUi.roiii."'
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 95 
 
 On that same day Lord Paulet took formal possession of the islands, the 
 British flag was run up, and every Hawaiian flag he could find was des- 
 troyed. An embargo was placed on every native vessel, so the news 
 of the seizure could not be carried abroad until such a time and in such a 
 manner as he chose, and a body of native troops was organised. For five 
 months the little kingdom was governed by a mixed commission made 
 up of Lord Paulet, Lieutenant Frere, Mr. James Mackay, and Dr. G. P. 
 Judd, the latter serving but a short time. 
 
 IIO.NOI.lLr MAliliOIK. 
 
 Lord Paulet was exulting over the prospect to him and his confederates, 
 as soon as his embassy should state the situation from their standpoint to 
 the British queen. King Kamehameha and his prime minister, Princess 
 Kekauluohi, on the other hand, had taken to the island of Maui that they 
 might be spared meeting their lunniliation face to face. But his interests 
 were left in the hands of Dr. G. P. Judd, who proved, with the ready 
 Yankee wit and daring of otliers, to be a matcli fen- tlie scheming English- 
 men. 
 
 At the time the only creditable craft on the islands was the king's 
 yacht Hoikaika (swift runner), and tliis had been chartered to the Ameri-
 
 96 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 can house, Messrs. Ladd & Co., for a voyage to Mazatland and back. This 
 craft had not started, and in order to get jwssession of it, so he could send 
 his despatch-bearer to England at once, Paulet offered the Americans the 
 privilege of sending an agent on the vessel, and also of bringing back what- 
 ever freight they wished, if they would relinquish their charter. By thus 
 saving the whole expense of the trip, the offer was quickly accepted, with- 
 out Lord Paulet dreaming of any secret purpose underneath. 
 
 The truth was Doctor Judd had seen an opportunity to communicate 
 
 VAI.I.KV OF MAUI. 
 
 with the United States and other governments without arousing suspicion, 
 but in a manner to outwit the plotters. This was to make of the commer- 
 cial agent of Messrs. Ladd & Co. a secret ambassador of the United States 
 and Great Britain. The American merchants were only too glad to help 
 the unfortunate king in this venture, and a young merchant in Honolulu, 
 named Marshall, gladly accepted the trust. Mr. Charles Brewer, a mer- 
 chant in Honolulu, for whom young Marshall was working, agreed to 
 advance the necessary funds and take his pay in firewood, the only revenue 
 left to the king. 
 
 In order to be in readiness to start properly equipped at the word of
 
 Hawaiian Children
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 97 
 
 Loi'd Paulet, who was impatient, and fitting out the ffoiJcaika, wliich lie 
 had rechristened " Her Majesty's tender Albert,''^ witli all di'spatch possi- 
 ble, the Americans had to act promptly. There was no law^-er on the 
 islands, so Mr. Marshall's credentials were copied from the credentials of 
 John Adams as the first American minister to England and recorded in 
 the old Blue Book. Of course certain changes had to be made to suit this 
 case, and these papers were drawn up by Doctor Judd and another in the 
 royal tomb at Honolulu, with a king's coffin for a table. This done, a 
 
 .■i.^»ra-.aii»«p«i»M*^'^>.:riiqBiMaimiii, 
 
 \V.\II'IO VAI.I.KV. 
 
 trusty messenger was sent to find the king and his premier, who signed 
 the documents at a midnight meeting on the shores of Waikiki. The 
 king then returned to his rendezvous on Maui, while the young minister 
 plentipotentiary to the court of St. James, under the guise of a commercial 
 agent, went on his important errand, leaving Lord Paidet none the wiser for 
 the secret work. The American consul at Honolulu also took advantage 
 of the op[)ortunity to send despatches to Washington by Marshall, apprising 
 the American government of the situation and its true inwardness. 
 
 The effort was not in vain. The overgreedy Paulet failed to receive 
 the support of his government, and Admiral Thomas, being sent to investi-
 
 98 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 gate, settled the matter peacefully. The exiled king was allowed to return 
 to liis office, and on Novinnher 28tli of the same year England and 
 France, in a joint declaration, not only recognised the island kingdom 
 as within the pale of civilised nations, but mutually agreed '' never to 
 take possession, neither directly nor under the title of protectorate, nor 
 under any form, of any part of the territory of which they are composed." 
 To this compact the United States declined to become a party, though 
 acknowledging tlie independence of Kamehameha's kingdom. 
 
 Naturally these trouljles awakened an antiijathy against allowing for- 
 eigners to acquire lands, and it showed the king that he needed an organ- 
 ised government outside of his royal house. It was also shown that a 
 sound and judicious code of laws was needed. In 1845, 1846, and 1847 
 three comprehensive acts were carried into effect. The first was " to 
 organise the executive minisfry of the Hawaiian Islands;" tlie second, 
 " to organise the executive department of the Hawaiian Islands ; " and 
 the tliird to organise the judiciary department of the Hawaiian Islands." 
 In 1846 the first volume of statute laws was is.sued. 
 
 From the councils of the above named bodies with the kino- and his 
 chiefs, it was decided that tlie king should liold liis private lands as his 
 individual property, to descend to his heirs and successors ; the balance 
 to be divided equally between the chiefs and the common people. This 
 division required that the chiefs who had held the land with the kings 
 and the tenants should surrender one-third of their rights, or pay a 
 certain sum of money. When the settlement between the king and the 
 chiefs had been accomplished, he again divided the lands which had 
 been surrendered to him between himself and the government, the former 
 being known as Crown lands and the latter as Government lands. 
 
 The first maheJc (division of land) was made January 27, 1848. The 
 great land reform, fully accomplished, showed great improvement in the 
 condition of the common people. Education began to receive its deserved 
 attention ; the masses felt the first impetus of industry ; the kingdom 
 quickly assumed a more important position in the judgment of other 
 nations ; foreign immigration outside of the missionaries flocked hither, 
 and business enterprises at once l)ecame assured successes. Kamehameha 
 III. lived six years after the culmination of liis liumane plans, so that 
 he saw the great l^enefits resulting from his sagacious course of action..
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 w 
 
 RISE OF TlIK UEI'UliLIC. 
 
 niLE few, if any, doubted the sincerity of the king in the dis- 
 tril)ution of land, the larger percentage was retained by him and 
 liis nobles. Out of 
 the four million acres ^ com- 
 prising the area of the islands 
 two million fell to him. Of 
 this he surrendered one million 
 to tlie government, thus hold- 
 ing one million, or one-fourth 
 of the whole, as his own portion. 
 The comparison in value, how- 
 e\er, was more favourable to 
 the common people. The low- 
 lauds adjacent to the sea, which 
 were better adapted to raising 
 their principal crops, taro and 
 rice, and wliieh rapidly rose in 
 valuation, were allowed them, 
 while the king and his chiefs 
 held large tracts on the moun- 
 tainsides, suitable only for hunting and pasturage, in some cases well- 
 wooded, but (iften barren and worthless. Fee simple titles were given 
 the people for building lots and lands they had actually cultivated for 
 themselves, and known as kidcanas or liomesteads. 
 
 In this distribution, as well as in the work leading to it, the mis- 
 sionaries had nnicli to do, and tliey were now blamed by some for not 
 getting better consideration for the masses. Others stoutly praised tliem 
 
 ' More recent surveys make the actual area of the islands as four million and eight hundred 
 thousand acres. 
 
 99 
 
 TAHO HOOTS.
 
 100 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 for h;i\ing accomplished so mucli, ;ind from this division of sentiment, 
 no doubt often ])rejndiced, sprang two political parties destined to act 
 important parts in the future of Hawaii, two parties, both seeking the 
 favours of the kings, as long as the kingdom lasted, but with diverse 
 objects : one intent on maintaining and strengthening the rojal power ; 
 
 the other to so mould it 
 tliat the island government 
 sliould eventually become an 
 integral part of their home 
 land, the United States. 
 
 In 1852 the constitution 
 was formed on more liberal 
 lines, and the representa- 
 tives of the people made to 
 be elected b}- imiversal suf- 
 frage. The following j-ear 
 was made memorable by the 
 ravages of smallpox, which 
 carried off several thousands 
 of the native inhabitants of 
 Oahu. 
 
 Kamehameha III. died 
 suddenly December 15, 1854, 
 wdiile he was undertaking 
 an annexation treaty with 
 the United States. He was 
 succeeded January 11, 1855, 
 by his adopted son and heir, 
 .ji KKx KMMA. Alexander Liholiho, who 
 
 was proclaimed king under tlie title of Kamehameha IV. This king 
 married the chiefess Emma Rooke, a granddaughter of John Young, the 
 Englishman who figured so prominently in Kamehameha the First's con- 
 quest, and whd manicd a Hawaiian woman. The reign of Kamehameha 
 IV., which lasted until his death, November 30, 1863, was comparatively 
 uneventful. In 1857 the fort at Honolulu was demolished by order of the 
 government, as that at Lahaiua had been in 1854. The same year John
 
 HAWAII. 101 
 
 Yuiiiig (Koni Ana) died. He had been kuhlna niii (premier) since 1845. 
 In 1859 tlie civil code was j)uljli.slied, and in 18GU legal stejjs were taken 
 to establish houses of prostitution, the " law to mitigate," etc., becoming 
 a law. 
 
 Kamehamelia IV. died November 30, ISfio, in his tliirtieth year, and 
 his elder brother Lot became ruler as Kamehamelia V. Almost the first 
 thing this monarch did was to call a convention, May 5, 1864. to amend 
 the constitution. August 13th the old constitution was abrogated and 
 the 2()th a new one granted by the king. One of his most important 
 changes was to allow the right of suffrage only to those who could read and 
 write and had some property. During his reign the Board of Education 
 was formed, the Board of Immigration instituted, and in 1805 an act 
 passed the Legislature to segregate the lepers. The king died suddenly 
 December 11, 1872, the last of the line of Kamehamehas. His reign was 
 saddened and his own end hastened by the death of his onh- son. Prince 
 of Hawaii, August 27, 1862. at the age of four years. In his grief over 
 the untimely death of his young son, and seeing the end of the Kame- 
 hamelia dynasty, the king exclaimed : 
 
 " What is to become of my poor country ? Queen Emma I do not 
 trust ; Lunalilo is a drunkard, and Kalakaua is a fool." 
 
 Under his rule the old-time paganism was to a considerable extent re- 
 stored, and its wild revels revived. Seeking the favour of the native 
 population, but not to the neglect of the foreign element, his influence 
 was not always for the good of the kingdom, and his reign marked a 
 period of much evil growth, as well as some good. 
 
 Kamehamelia V. possessed more of the traits of the old chiefs than his 
 predecessor. He had made a very good record as a government oflfi(>er 
 before coming to the throne. He had a strong will, and used it as he 
 thought best for his people. He called able men to aid him. Unfortu- 
 nately, he also leant toward the old customs. 
 
 Dying without naming a succes.sor, this king was succeeded by his 
 cousin, William Lunalilo, chosen b}^ the Legislature, January 8, 1873. 
 Lunalilo's reign was short and stormy, though the latter fact rose from 
 no real fault of his. Tlie enforcement of the leper law, passed under the 
 ])revious administration, agitation of the ceding of Pearl Harl)our to 
 tlie United States in consideration of a treaty of reciprocity, with otlicr
 
 102 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 acts, aroused the anti-missionary party to make the claim that he was 
 against the native inhabitants. He died of consumption February 3, 1874, 
 in tlie midst of the bitter political antagonism, leaving the bulk of his 
 estate to establish the Lunalilo Home for aged and indigent Haw^aiians. 
 Lmialilo's successor was elected February 12, 1874, by the Legislature, 
 which chose one who had been his rival before, David Kalakaua. The 
 new king was a lineal descendant of Liloa, among the foremost of Hawaii's 
 great family of warriors before the days of the Kamehameha. It was 
 
 LUNALILO IKlMI" 
 
 largely due, in fact, to this king's assistance that the Conqueror was suc- 
 cessful in his conquest. Kalakaua's queen was a granddaughter of the 
 last independent sovereign of Kauai, so the couple represented the last 
 of two great lines of royalty. But if he was of noble birth he was of 
 ignoble character. It was claimed that he had obtained his election over 
 the Queen-dowager Emma by dishonest means, and his election was fol- 
 lowed by a riot, which was put down by a body of marines from the 
 United States ships Tuscarora and Portsmouth and H. B. M. ship Tenedos. 
 ~ Kalakaua before his election had appealed to race prejudice, and now, 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 i03 
 
 like Kameliaineha V., seemed to consider only the interests of the native 
 Hawaiians, and to look on foreign residents as alien invaders. Under him 
 no foreigner could be naturalised without his consent or approval. He 
 constantl}- sought to change the system of government into a personal 
 despotism, that he might command the treasury. He filled the Legislature 
 with pliant office-holders, and he did not hesitate to resort to any measure, 
 however questionable, to carry his end. The Louisiana Lottery found in 
 him a friend, and had it not been for the efforts of men of great influence, to 
 whom he was owing money, he 
 would have pressed the bill 
 through the Legislature in spite 
 of public indignation. 
 
 There was one act, however, 
 to which he was forced to lend 
 his acquiescence. In June, 
 1875, the much-talked-of treaty 
 of commercial reciprocity be- 
 tween the islands and the 
 United States was ratified, in 
 spite of intense opposition in 
 both countries. Going into 
 effect in September, 1876, the 
 result was a surprise on all 
 sides, and from that time 
 Hawaii dates tlie dawn of its 
 prosperity. One of the stipula- 
 tions of this treaty was the 
 ceding of Pearl Harbour, situ- 
 ated on a small river by that name seven miles from Honolulu, to the 
 United States as a naval and coaling station. This place offers the strong- 
 est strategical points " and the finest site for a naval and coaling station 
 in the whole Pacific," concerning which the London Times, in its alarm 
 over the growing prestige of the United States in Hawaii, declared, in 
 an appeal to Great Britain : '• The maritime power that holds Pearl 
 River, and moors its fleets there, possesses the key to the Northern 
 Pacific." 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^hI' 
 
 ■ f<?ii9>W 
 
 
 i M 
 
 
 
 
 mjm 
 
 jf*^ 
 
 ^^B^n] .^^^^^Sc'Hfll 
 
 i . m 
 
 
 IBc^^H 
 
 -" .^ tl 
 
 KtNG KALAKAl'A.
 
 104 
 
 THE FAl^. EAST. 
 
 Leaving Honolulu January 20, 1881, and returning October 27th, King 
 Kalakaua made a tour oi the world, visiiting Japan, China, Siani, British 
 India, the principal countries of Europe, and the United States. 
 
 A crisis in the government of King Kalakaua came when he accepted 
 two bribes, aggregating over a hundred and fifty thousand dollars, in 
 
 connection with an opium 
 license. This act was fol- 
 lowed by the revolution of 
 1887. In the previous seven 
 years the debt of the gov- 
 ernment had increased from 
 three hundred and ninety 
 thousand to almost two mil- 
 lion dollars. Deserted now 
 by his followers, and appeal- 
 ing in vain to other nations 
 for assistance, the king 
 yielded to the unanimous 
 demands of the opponents 
 of his S3'stem of royalty, 
 and July 7, 1887, he signed 
 a constitution whicli was a 
 revision and improvement 
 over that of 1864. This 
 was framed to make the ex- 
 ecutive responsible to the 
 people and to end personal 
 government. Office-holders 
 (jiKEN KAPi.ii.ANi. wcrc debarred from seats in 
 
 tlie Legislature, and nobles, instead of being appointed by the king, were 
 to be elected by the people for a term of six years. The voters must be 
 owners of property to the value of three thousand dollars, or have an 
 income of six hundred dollars. Though this constitution was a rather 
 peculiar combination of republican and monarchical ideas, engrafted on 
 a kingly power, better results were likely to come from it than had been 
 given the inhabitants. Smarting under the rebuke, the royal party re-
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 105 
 
 sorted to an insurrection, but it was soon put down, tliougli not without 
 the loss of seven lives of the rioters. 
 
 The debauchery of the king was telling on him, and in November. 1890, 
 he went to California for his health. Tlie best medical aid failed to lielp 
 him, and he died January 20, 1891, his remains being taken to Honolulu 
 in the U. S. S. Charleston, arriving tliere the 29th of the same month. A 
 few hours after the arrival of the body of the dead king his sister took the 
 
 ItOYAL FUNER.\L KAL.^KAtTA LYING IN STATK. 
 
 oath to support the (constitution, and was otlicially annoiniced as queen, 
 with the title of Liliuokalani. 
 
 Notwithstanding the misgovernment of a dissipated and selfish-minded 
 king, the reign of Kalakaua were the golden years of Hawaiian progress 
 and prosperity, though paid for in the end at a high price. Naturally, the 
 protligate management brought a collapse in business matters, the govern- 
 ment became deeply involved in debt, and the control of pul)lic affairs 
 largely in the hands of scheming and antagonistic politicians. The people 
 generally understood their grave situation, but bntli jiarties looked lio]ie-
 
 106 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 fully forward to good results from Queen Liliuokalani. She had been 
 reared and educated under American missionary influence, which gave 
 those who had the interest of tlie struggling masses at heart reason to 
 believe she would be their friend. Her husband was John 0. Dominis, 
 whose paternal ancestors were from Italy, but whose mother was an Ameri- 
 can woman — a native of Boston — with an English ancestry. He was 
 governor of Maui and Hawaii, and his influence was expected to be 
 
 thrown in the interest of 
 good government. 
 
 Unfortunately, Governor 
 Dominis, Avho was made 
 prince consort, who had 
 been in poor health at the 
 time of her coronation, died 
 the following 27th of Aug- 
 ust, and was buried with 
 royal honours. Had he 
 lived, a different result 
 misrht have been the out- 
 come of the situation. A 
 more far-seeing policy and 
 firmness of purpose was 
 required to manage affairs 
 successfully than the queen 
 possessed. In her despera- 
 tion to raise money, instead 
 of cutting down some of 
 the enormous expenses in- 
 curred, she listened to the advice of unsafe and unscrupulous counsellors, 
 and resorted to such means as were offered by lottery managers and opium 
 sraug;a;lers. 
 
 The Kamehamehas had, as a rule, selected their advisers from the 
 ablest men of the different parties and races, while hers, either from 
 mistaken judgment or evil influences, were men who seldom worked 
 harmoniously together either for the interest of the public or her. The 
 Legislature now held, according to the constitution of 1887, the right to 
 
 KING KALAKAUA.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 107 
 
 form the cabinets, with lier consent, wiiile she claimed the first rights, and 
 the long session of 1892 was made memoral)le for its changes in min- 
 istries, as many as four having been selected and discharged. It was 
 during this troublesome period that what became known as the Wilcox- 
 Jones cabinet was formed, which, if allowed to remain, might have settled 
 some of the threatening questions peacefully. But this was foi'ced to give 
 way in tlie midst of its efforts 
 to another bod}- of advisers, 
 when the Legislature was pro- 
 rogued b}- the queen, and the 
 odious lottery and opium bills 
 signed at once. From the first 
 of these the islands were to 
 derive great benefit by wa\' of 
 permanent imi)rovements, and 
 the latter was a license to al- 
 low in the market that article, 
 which, w'ith a population of 
 over twenty thousand addicted 
 to its use, had become a com- 
 modity dangerous to handle. 
 It was already being smuggleil 
 into the islands against the 
 law, and it was claiiiicd l)y the 
 supi)orters of the measure that 
 it was better t(i attempt to 
 regulate an evil than to make 
 
 ' , IJ V 1 1 <n'KKN I.ILIl-OKALANI. 
 
 laws that Avould be broken. 
 
 The opposing part}- had strong grounds for complaint, and both bills pre- 
 sented grave phases. 
 
 A change in the constitution, or a new one entire, eliminating all 
 republican ideas and tending to strengthen the monarchy, was advocated 
 by the royalists. Drafts, varying somewhat in their essentials, were 
 drawn up by the queen's advisers, one of which was accepted by her. 
 Dissatisfied and at odds with the Legislature, she j)rorogued that body Jan- 
 uary 14, 1893, and retired to the palace with the intention of proclaiming
 
 1U8 
 
 rHE FAR EAST. 
 
 tlie new constitution, escorted on lier way b}^ the Hawaiian society Hui 
 Kcdaiaina. A crowd had now assembled about the grounds, the queen's 
 guard being drawn up in a line from the west gate to the steps of the 
 palace. 
 
 Tlie queen summoned her Cabinet to the Blue Room for their signatures 
 to the document. But they did not come until she was worn out wait- 
 ing. Then, one of them having consulted during the delay the leaders 
 
 of the opposing party, they 
 demurred. She entreated, 
 claiming that they had led 
 lier to the brinlc of tlie preci- 
 pice to desert her at the critical 
 moment. In tlieir desperation, 
 all l3ut one fled, and he per- 
 suaded her to postpone her 
 action for two weelvs. 
 
 The queen's action declared 
 revolutionary Ijv her opponents, 
 they met and chose a Com- 
 mittee of Safetv, with the 
 ^•iew of forming " a provi- 
 sional government." Mr. John 
 L. Stevens, the American min- 
 ister, was asked to land armed 
 troops from the war-vessel 
 Boston in their defence. He 
 refused to do this, but he did 
 order armed men from the war-ship to protect American interests in 
 the threatened trouble. 
 
 This action was accepted by the royalists to mean interposition on 
 the part of the United States government, when excitement ran higher 
 than ever. 
 
 The revolutionists now resolved to set up a new government, and on 
 Tuesday, January 17. 1893, the leaders issued from the Government 
 Building a proclamation which declared the Hawaiian monarchy abro- 
 gated, and ended by saying : 
 
 CORRIDOR OF PALACE.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 lO'.J 
 
 " 1. The Hawaiian monarchical system of govermnent is hereby abro- 
 gated. 
 
 " 2. A provisional government for the control and management of pub- 
 lic affairs and the protection of the public peace is hereby established, to 
 exist until terms of union with the United States of America have been 
 negotiated and agreed upon. 
 
 "■ 3. Such provisional government shall consist of an executive council 
 of four members, who are declared to be S. B. Dole, J. A. King, P. C. 
 Jones, W. 0. Smith, who shall administer the executive departments of 
 the government, the first named acting as president and chairman of 
 
 U. S. S. BOSTON AT HONOLULU. 
 
 such council and administering the department of foreign affah-s, and 
 the others severally administering the departments of interior, iiiiance, 
 and attorney-general, respectively, in tlie order in which they are above 
 enumerated, according to existing Hawaiian law as far as may be 
 consistent with this proclamation ; and also of an advisory council 
 wliich shall consist of fourteen members, wlio are hereby declared to 
 be S. M. Damon, A. Brown, L. A. Thurston, J. F. Morgan, J. Em- 
 meluth, H. Waterhouse, J. A. McChandless, E. D. Tenney, F. W. 
 McChesney, F. Wilhelm, W. R. Castle, W. G. Ashley, W. C. Wilder, 
 C. Bolte. Such advisor}' council shall also have general legislative 
 authority.
 
 110 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 " Such executive and advisory councils sliall, acting jointly, have power 
 to remove any member of either council and to fill any such vacancy. 
 
 '' 4. All officers under the existing government are hereby requested to 
 continue to exercise their functions and jjerform the duties of the offices, 
 with the exception of the following named persons : Queen Liliuokalani ; 
 Charles B. Wilson, Marshal ; Samuel Parker, Minister of Foreiyn 
 Affairs ; W. H. Cornwell, Minister of Finance; John F. Colburn, Minis- 
 ter of the Interior ; Arthur P. Peterson, Attorney-General, who are 
 herebv removed from office. 
 
 KXECUTIVE BUILDING, HONOLULU. 
 
 " 5. All Hawaiian laws and constitutional principles not inconsistent 
 
 herewith shall continue to be in force until further order of the executive 
 
 and advisory councils. 
 
 " (Signed) Henry E. Coopkr, Chairman.'" 
 
 And twelve others as the Committee of Safety, and dated Honolulu, 
 
 January 17, 1893. 
 
 The overtlirown queen, deserted by her ministry, and her guard 
 quartered at the police station, had to remain inactive. At 6 p. M the 
 following protest was signed by her :
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 Ill 
 
 '" I, Liliuokalani, by the grace of God and under the constitution of the 
 Hawaiian kingdom queen, do hereby solemnly protest against any and 
 all acts done against myself and the constitutional government of the 
 Hawaiian kingdom by certain persons claiming to have established Pro- 
 visional Government of and for this kingdom. 
 
 " That I yield to the superior force of the United States of America, 
 whose minister plenipotentiary, his Excellency John L. Stevens, has 
 
 QUKKN S Gl'ARD AND HAKUACKS. 
 
 caused United States troops to be landed at Honolulu, and declared that 
 he would support the said Provisional Government. 
 
 " Now, to avoid any collision of armed foi'ces, and perhaps the loss of 
 life, I do, under this protest and impelled by said forces, yield my 
 authority until such time as the Government of the United States sliall, 
 upon the facts being presented to it, undo (?) the action of its repre- 
 sentative, and reinstate me in the authority as the constitutional sov- 
 ereign of the Hawaiian Islands.
 
 112 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 " Done at Honolulu this seventeenth day of January, A. D. 1893. 
 " (Signed) Liliuokalani R. 
 
 " Samuel Parker, Minister of Foreign Affairs. 
 " Wm. H. Corxwell, Minister of Finance. 
 "John F. Colburn, Minister of Interior. 
 "A. P. Peterson, Attorneij-General. 
 " (Addressed) S. B. Dole, Esq.. iiud others composing the Provisional 
 Government of the Hawaiian Islands." 
 
 STATION HOUSE. 
 
 The queen sent a letter to the marshal of the kingdom ordering him 
 to deliver over ever^'thing to the Provisional Government, and the next 
 day she retired to Washington Place. The revolution had been accom- 
 plished without resorting to arms, and the new government was duly 
 installed. A convention was chosen that sat in Honolulu during the 
 month of June, 1894, when a new constitution was framed, and on July 
 4th, a memorable date to every American purposely selected for this 
 occasion, the Republic of Hawaii was formally announced to the political 
 powers of the day, with Sanford B. Dole as president.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 113 
 
 111 suiuniing up the causes and results of this revolution it is easy to 
 find reason for blame on all sides, but the weight of the evidence seems 
 to be against tlie upholders of the monarchy. That the policy of the 
 queen was short-sighted and reactionary was evident; that she was 
 stubborn in her determination to restore certain monarchical rights is 
 beyond question ; the constitution she would have promulgated in its 
 full intentions, as offered, would have disfranchised every white man on 
 the islands unless the husband of a Hawaiian woman,, and would have 
 
 ROYAL CDLLECTIOX OF CURIOS. 
 
 made the property of the whites alone subject to taxation. In her 
 extenuation it may be said that slie liad been driven to desperate 
 measures by aliens who cared little fur the interests of tiie native poinila- 
 tion, and wlio had no love for the monarchy however well managed. 
 One of the most earnest of the nsvolutionists, four years before was 
 defending the Hawaiian nionarcliy in the legislature in glowing rhetoric 
 and denouncing those who were advocating annexation as traitors. The 
 republic established, and not getting what he had expected, he was anxious 
 to return to the old form of government with Kaiulani as queen and 
 himself as premier. But such examples need not be multiplied. The
 
 114 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Americans were naturally in favoiu- of annexation from tlie beginning, 
 and the missionaries were the moulders of Hawaiian destiny. That the 
 greatest step had been made without bloodshed is glory enough, not only 
 for them but for the overruled majority which accepted the inevitable so 
 graciously. 
 
 (ill KN S HKI>U(JU.M.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 A 
 
 INDUSTRIAL l'H<>(;RESS. 
 
 HALO of romance tinges tlie atiiiospliere of Hawaiian Iiistorv 
 whither one turns. He finds it in the stor}- of tlieir discoverv. in 
 the traditions of their 
 early races, in tlieir wars 
 and conquests, in their re- 
 ligious affairs, in their revo- 
 lutions and growth of gov- 
 ernment, and, last but not 
 least, in their educational 
 and industrial progress. 
 
 If the American mission- 
 aries were teaching the 
 masses the way to a higher 
 civilisation, dotting the sea- 
 shores, hillsides, and valleys 
 with churches, schoolhouses, 
 and comfortable dwellings, 
 American business men were 
 soon establishing enterprises 
 of agriculture and manufac- 
 ture hitherto undreamed of 
 by the indolent, impruvidcnt 
 Hawaiian. 
 
 As early as 1786, only 
 eight years after their dis- 
 covery by Captain Cook, Jose))!! Burrdl. a merchant of Boston, Mass., 
 conceived the idea of the value of trade with the islands, and a stock 
 company was formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars. The plan 
 was to obtain by barter with the natives of the northwestci-ii .'oast of 
 
 115 
 
 I'KIXfK I.KI.KIDKIIKI'.
 
 IIG 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 North America the furs and other products of that country, and from 
 the Hawaiian Islands sandalwood, cocoanut oil, and any other product 
 the newly discovered islands afforded. The project was reasonably suc- 
 cessful, and tlie returning ships have the credit of bringing to Boston 
 the first Hawaiian chief to visit this country. The traffic in sandalwood 
 soon became of considerable importance, and was a source of great profit 
 to those engaged in it. This wood, as has been mentioned, was largely 
 
 I'Un'ATK i;k>iiiknik. mawaii. 
 
 taken to China for a market, where it was exchanged for teas, silks, 
 and other articles from that land. 
 
 A Boston vessel, in ISUo. landing at Hilo on January 23d, carried to 
 the islands tlie first horse the natives had ever seen, and the animal, 
 one of the highest prizes to their descendants, was an oljject of wonder to 
 them. Others were desired, and several were sent from California, then 
 
 » 
 
 a Spanish province, until the islands were stocked with this useful quadru- 
 ped. Still it was mau}^ years before they became tlioroughly domesticated 
 and the Hawaiian came to consider himself at his best astride of one of 
 them.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 117 
 
 As soon as the supply of sandalwood was exhausted, a trade in pearls 
 and pearl-shells followed, Hawaii proving by this time a ready market for 
 cloths of several kinds, and hardware such as nails and small articles 
 of iron. 
 
 Wliale fisheries in the Pacific next attracted the attention of the thrifty 
 Yankees, and in 1820 the ship Mary, commanded by Captain Allen, 
 entered the harbour of Honolulu. This industry immediately receiving 
 
 .SAini; STVI.K OK lilDlNG. 
 
 an impetus, other vessels soon followed, until as many as a hundred vessels 
 would i)ut into the harbours at this port and Lahaina, Maui, in a single 
 season, and the furnishing of the supplies for them became the chief source 
 of profit to the islanders. Quite a number of English whalers, and a few 
 French, found their way to these ports. But all that these vessels brought 
 was not desirable, for the}^ were the means of introducing such pests as 
 mosquitoes and scorpions, all of which thrive in this ocean paradise with 
 wonderful vitality. 
 
 In 1823 a Boston ship named Paragon bore to the islands as second 
 officer one whose name was to liecome connected with tlie ruling family
 
 118 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 in after years. He was John Doininis. whose son. Jolni 0. Dominis, was 
 the husband and prince consort of Queen Liliuolvalani, the last of the royal 
 rulers. Among the crew of this ship was Charles Brewer, who afterward 
 became a prominent Hawaiian merchant, whose house is still well known 
 both in that land and the United States. 
 
 The whale fisheries declining in 1860-1870. the energetic mind of the 
 New Englander again turned into another channel, and the sugar indus- 
 try was the result. Tliis plant was found growing wild in every valley 
 
 (iATIIERIXC SldAR-CANE. 
 
 visited by Cook and Vancouver, and excited the wonder and admiration of 
 every visitor on account of its astonishing growth and remarkable sweet- 
 ness. The Hawaiiaus had made it a common article of food and culti- 
 vated it in their simple manner. The Chinese saw something of its 
 possibilities and attempted to make l)oth sugar and molasses from it. 
 Their primitive methods were succeeded in 18o.J l)y the first successful 
 efforts, when the American firm of Ladd & Co. obtained possession of a 
 tract of land in the Koloa district on the island of Kauai, and in 1837 
 erected the first iron sugar mill seen on the group. This was a crude
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 119 
 
 aifair compared to tlie nioderu machinery, and was propelled first by 
 mides and oxen, then by water, and finally by steam power. The cane of 
 tlie Hawaiian Islands was soon found to yield more per acre than in any 
 other land in the world. Thus it Ijecame a source of great profit to the 
 wealthy producer, and gigantic enterprises have sprung up, among which 
 is the American Sugar Company's plantation on the fertile plains of Central 
 Maui, said tu l)e tlie largest in 
 existence. The business recjuires 
 expensive machinery, and too 
 extensive capital for the small 
 investor to live by it. 
 
 The coffee industry gained its 
 supporters, and in 1845 two 
 hundred and forty-eight pounds 
 of this berry was exported. 
 For years it was believed that 
 this shrul) would onlv trrow in 
 a .small territory in the Kona 
 district, Hawaii. But in the 
 famous Olaa district, on the 
 same island, large coffee planta- 
 tions are being successfrdly 
 managed, and the industry is 
 fast reaching large proportions. 
 
 Rice has been raised consid- 
 erably by Chinamen on the 
 marshy lands near the seacoast, 
 but the other races have not 
 l)een successful with it. 
 
 Banana raising has become a 
 paying industry; over a hundred thousand iMinchcs. worth one inuKircd 
 thou.sand ddllars. are being shippcil ainiually, and lliis amount might l)e 
 largely increased. Though sugar, rice, coffee, and tropical fruits are the 
 chief articles of export, it is pos.sible to grow the jiroducts of the tem- 
 perate zone on the u|i];iii(]s. 
 
 The rapid settlement of California between 1S-")0 and ISOO furnished a 
 
 BANANA III.OSSOM AND Fltl'lT.
 
 120 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 new market for the productions of the islands, and potatoes became a prof- 
 itable crop, while wheat was successfully cultivated in the Makawao dis- 
 trict, and a steam flouring mill was erected in Honolulu in 1854. But 
 neither of these crops became permanent industries. During the reign of 
 Kamehameha IV.. from 1855 to 1863, little progress was made in tlie 
 industrial pursuits. The cultivation of wheat was finally given up, and 
 
 i 
 
 i;. A. l:. SECTION IN CEMETERY, HOXOLILU. 
 
 that of coffee for a time abandoned, though in 18GU the culture of rice- was 
 begun with considerable success. 
 
 The period of the war of the great Rebellion was one of the most critical 
 to American interests. The tide of sentiment turned toward Great Britain, 
 which through its astute diplomacy w^on the confidence of tlie king and 
 queen, the first being then Kamehameha V. Already the English govern- 
 ment had realised the coming importance of Hawaii as an ocean stronghold, 
 and the possibilities of its agricultural industries. It was seen that rice, 
 cotton, coffee, and sugar-cane could be raised to advantage. The beauties 
 of the climate were also beginning to attract people hither, so that its pop- 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 121 
 
 Illation was increasing faster than ever. Minister McBride explains the 
 situation in the following words : " I beg leave further to say that Ameri- 
 can interests greatly predominate here over all others combined, and not 
 less than four-fifths of the commerce connected with these islands is 
 American. The merchants, traders, dealers of all kinds, and planters are 
 principally Americans. The English have no commerce here worthy of 
 
 SUGAR MILL. 
 
 the name, and but one or two retail stores ; the Germans, about the 
 same amount of business as the English. Many American merchants here 
 are doing quite a large business, and would extend their business still more 
 but for the danger of British rule over the group, which if it should become 
 the dominant or governing power, American interests would be crushed 
 out with eagerness and despatch." This report was made in 18G3. and it 
 will be seen that American interest lost very little if any vitality. 
 
 The treaty of commercial reciprocity with the United States in 187-3. by 
 which sugar in all its states and several other articles were admitted there 
 free, gave an unprecedented growth to industry in all branches, and an
 
 122 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 intoxicating increase in wealth followed. Men seemed to go wild over the 
 prospects, and in the lack of cheap labour to help develop enterprises as 
 fast as they wanted to, the importation of low-priced labour succeeded with 
 startling rapidity, as will be shown in the chapters devoted to the Japanese 
 and Chinese in the islands. The valuation of property advanced, but the 
 price of labour suffered from the great influx from abroad. Less than one- 
 tenth of the help were natives. The proportion of the immigrants pro- 
 cured for contract labour was twenty-five women to one hundred men 
 as a rule, and from the lowest and most ignorant classes of foreigners. 
 
 k., ■ 
 
 ^,-*-E;«'^?->', 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 s 
 
 
 s;^ 
 
 _^^^^ 
 
 
 g^ 
 
 L. 
 
 ■ - - 
 
 ^^St - .>'^f< 
 
 ^^ 
 
 &*- -■^^^-izii^^ 
 
 3t— ^^^ 
 
 ^^S 
 
 'S^ 
 
 d 
 
 ^^*3-___\ 
 
 \ 
 
 ^ — ^^ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ '^' ' 
 
 *• 
 
 ■^ 
 
 
 E 
 
 ''~! 
 
 
 i^ ■-. 
 
 '. - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 RICK FIELDS, IIAXAI.KI. 
 
 But this headlong rush has been checked, and Hawaii is rapidly recover- 
 ing from the shock, with the brightest prospects for the future. The 
 islands which are foremost in industrial interests are Hawaii, with its great 
 varieties of soil and climate, affording numerous sugar plantations and 
 coffee lands ; Maui, following in the same line ; Oahu, with its rich sugar 
 and rice lands, and the finest harbour in the Pacific ; Kauai, for its well 
 watered slopes and luxuriant vegetation the " Garden Island," largely 
 devoted to sugar cultivation and rice growing. 
 
 Still the industries of Hawaii are only in their infancy. Less than one- 
 fourth of the laud which can be cultivated is now under improvement, and
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 123 
 
 scarcely one- tenth of the grazing land is used. It is estimated that under 
 ordinary management the islands can be made to afford homes for a popu- 
 lation of half a million of agriculturists. As fine wool can be grown here 
 as in Australia. The exports for 1898. made principally to the United 
 States, reached over ten million dollars. These can be increased ten times. 
 Its present income is almost one million and eight hundred dollars. Sliould 
 manufacturing enterprises be started here, which is quite likely at an early 
 
 KINDEHC.ARTKX. FOItMKlt IlKME OF QUKEN KJIMA. 
 
 date, the future will show it to be one of the richest spots on earth. All 
 this without saj'ing a word as to its possibilities as a health and pleasure 
 resort, for which it is so admirabl}' adapted. 
 
 A glance at its educational institutions show that these have kept 
 abreast of the agricultin-al interests. Schools were begun and houses 
 built soon after the arrival of the missionaries, and as early as 1831 a high 
 school was estal)lished at Lahaina. In 1830 Mr. Lyman ojiened a high 
 school at Hilo. and the same year the female seminary at Wailuku, Maui, 
 was commenced. In August, 1838, the chiefs commenced the study of
 
 124 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 political economy under the instruction of Mr. William Richards, and May 
 10th, the following year, the first edition of the Hawaiian Bible was fin- 
 ished. A year later a school for young chiefs, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, 
 teachers, was opened at Honolulu, and May 21, 1841, the school for mis- 
 sionaries' children was begun at Punahou, now Oahu College. New 
 schools have been established from time to time, until there is no district, 
 however remote, w^hich does not have its school. 
 
 The system is that of free public schools similar to the plan of the 
 
 . 1 K.v.\ll-,Ur- I']. VIM. HI 1 W ^ e. . 
 
 I UK i.-.I.AM).'-. 
 
 United States, from where many of the teachers come. The text-books 
 are uniform, and can be bought as cheap as in the latter country. Those 
 native born, or born on the island of foreign parents, are compelled to 
 attend school by law. The only people who cannot read and write are 
 among those who have come from abroad. The schools are non-sectarian, 
 and besides the common school system there are opportunities for getting 
 a higher education, such as the grammar grade of the United States affords, 
 while at Honolulu a high school and collegiate course can be obtained. 
 Instruction in the common schools is conducted in the English language.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 125 
 
 Tliere are papers published in the Hawaiian, Portuguese, Japanese, and 
 Chinese ]ano;uasres, besides several in the English language. Honolulu has 
 three evening dailies, one morning daily, and two weeklies, besides 
 monthly magazines. Some of the latter are finely illustrated. 
 
 The islands have regular communication with San Francisco, once a 
 montli with British Columbia, and twice a month with Australia and New 
 Zealand. Steamers also ply between Honolulu and Jai)an and Cliina. 
 Intercourse between the islands is by steamers, which are constantly ply- 
 ing between the different ports, giving frequent communications to and 
 from the capital. There are three public railroads, and more contem- 
 plated, besides several plantations, each operating ten to thirty miles of 
 track. Since annexation, the steam traffic has ereatlv increased. 
 
 IlO.NUI.lLi: IC.VILWAY STATION. 
 
 All of the principal islands have a regular postal system, so that on 
 the arrival of a steamer at any main point, mail carriers are ready to 
 distribute the mail through all parts of tlie district. On Oahu, Hawaii, 
 and Kauai telephone connections are found at every important place, and 
 ^huii is Ijeginning to have its line. The islands are in a direct course from 
 San Francisco to the Philippines, being about one-third of the distance, 
 and, though over two thousand miles from the nearest j)oint of mainland, 
 in these days of rapid ocean transit are not so lonely in their situation as 
 might at first seem. Under the changed condition of affairs the native has 
 become atrusted and valued citizen. History in im other land slmws such a 
 rapid advance from paganism to respectable civilisation, from iiidiilenee to a 
 good degree of progress, as the descendants of the followers of Kainelianielia.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE JAPANESE AND CONTRACT LABOUR IN HAWAII. 
 
 THE Japanese and Chinese now comprise over forty per cent, of 
 the population of the Hawaiian Islands, and are already more than 
 half of the male inhabitants. This situation becomes more strik- 
 ing: when it is realised that the former have more than doubled in num- 
 ber during the last seven years. This influx has been due largely to the 
 influence of the sugar planters, who have looked to the home land of these 
 races for cheap labour with which to carry on their industry. 
 
 Naturally these Asiatic elements are beginning to be felt. Of all the 
 foreign immigrants to Hawaii the Japanese have excited the most talk, if 
 not real concern, as to the dangerous outcome of the rapid increase of tiiis 
 race on the islands. Since the annexation of the islands to the United 
 States the situation has been modified somewhat, but the grave fact re- 
 mains that the Oriental element is still a power in the island territory. In 
 189-4 Admiral Walker, who was in command of the American navy in 
 these waters, said : " They (the Japanese) are inclined to be turbulent ; 
 they stand together as a solid body, and their leaders are said to have 
 political ambitions, and propose to claim for their free men tiie right to 
 vote inider the conditions with which that right is granted to other for- 
 eigners. They are a brave people, with military instincts, and would fight 
 if aroused to violence." 
 
 Japan is the England of the East. Admiral Ammen, in 1896, wrote a 
 letter to the Congressional committee : " It does not require a prophet to 
 foresee that those islands in the near future will be either American or 
 Japanese." This Oriental power, still in its infancy, had then a larger 
 naval force in that vicinity than the United States. But there were other 
 reasons than a desire to possess the islands which prompted Japan to its 
 watchfulness and jealousy over the country. That was the Hawaiian- 
 Japan treaty relative to Japanese immigration. 
 
 Early in tlie sugar industry Japanese labour was sought to help in 
 
 126
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 127 
 
 raising of cane and manufacture uf sugar. A treaty was made with Ja[)an 
 which should give that covmtry a certain sum for every man or woman 
 })ermitted to come to Hawaii, and a strict account was kept of each 
 labourer furnished. Upon tlieir arrival in Honolulu those desiring help 
 were permitted to select their labourers and take them to their plantations. 
 Each man was allowed from twelve to fifteen dollars a month, and each 
 woman thirteen, a hou.se to live in, fuel, free water and medical attendance. 
 This .system gave rise to spirited opposition, and has been compared to 
 slavery as it existed in tlie Southern States of America before the oi'eat 
 
 
 
 
 
 JAPANKSK VILLAtJK .NKAIi HII.O. 
 
 Rebellion, tliougli there was scarcely a point of resemblance between the 
 two systems. But tliere was this to be .said in its favour : The labourer was 
 allowed to return to his country at tiie end of tbree years, and while here 
 he was not to be separated from his family. Neither was the planter 
 upheld in resorting to violence, and was liable to a fine for assault. 
 Living largely n})on rice rai.sed by liim.self, and under the favourable 
 condition of the climate, tlie labourer could lay by a modest sum each year 
 if he chose. The Japanese consulate at Honolulu received his savings at 
 the rate of four ])er cent, interest. Frugal and temperate in their babits, 
 the Japanese could save a [)art of his salary to take liome, or to help bini 
 to found a home in tbis country if he decided to remain, and thus many of
 
 128 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 them were only too glad to improve the opportunity. But there was a 
 clause in this treaty which soon fomented trouble, began to mobilise 
 Hawaii with a troublesome people, and led to a collision with Japan. 
 
 The treaty provided that Hawaii covdd not prevent Japanese from 
 coming to the islands as free immigrants in any numbers that they chose, 
 and Oriental immigration increased with startling rapidity. In 1896 they 
 came at the rate of a thousand a month, and the adult males of that 
 nationality outnumbered any other race of immigrants. The result could 
 be readily anticipated unless some restriction was made by the government. 
 
 JAPANESE, HAWAII. 
 
 This was done, when the Japanese government remonstrated, and the 
 planters complained tliat they could tiiid no labourer to take tlie place of 
 the wiry, active, progressive Japanese. The Portuguese, considered the 
 superior of any foreign labourer, would not come in sufficient numbers, 
 other Europeans, and Americans failed to do so, and the Hawaiian already 
 there refused to do it. While but a few Japanese on the islands could 
 read or write English or Hawaiian, a qualification necessary to obtain the 
 right of suffrage, the Americans became alarmed lest Hawaii become a 
 Japanese colony and under their control. 
 
 The first measure to elieck this increase of them was made in 1895 by 
 the immigration committee, which issued an order obliging planters to
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 129 
 
 import two-thii'ds of their conti'act labour from China or some other 
 country except Jajjan. This aroused Japan, and a sharp controversy 
 followed when the Hawaii authorities refused, on technical grounds, to 
 allow two caro-oes of unmigrants to land. Free labourers were entitled 
 to enter Hawaii without any preliminary action of the authorities, but it 
 was stipulated that they should possess fifty dollars. A thousand of the 
 newcomers had written agreements from the Japanese Immigration Com- 
 pany that in consideration of twelve yen they were to be returned to 
 Japan, providing labour 
 could not be secured for 
 them. This made them, 
 the Hawaiian committee 
 claimed, not free labourers, 
 but contract labourers not 
 agreeing with the intention 
 of the treaty. Then, when 
 the immigrants show'ed each 
 fifty dollars, which was in- 
 tended to make them ap- 
 pear as free immigrants, it 
 was held that these sums 
 had been loaned them by 
 the society for the oljject of 
 evading the law. The Ha- 
 waiian authorities were firm 
 and Japan took home her 
 immigrants, and instead of 
 sending more at the time, despatched a war-ship to the islands. Learning 
 of this intended movement, the United States sent the ci'uiser Philadel- 
 phia to Honolulu, which was in the harbour when the Japanese vessel, 
 Naniioa, arrived on May 5, 1897. 
 
 Japan acknowledged the predominant interest of the United States in 
 Hawaii, but claimed that its own interests there demanded careful and 
 watchful attention. Tlien Hawaii olTered to arbitrate the immigration 
 question, and Japan agreeing in July, the following September innnigration 
 of free labourers from that country was resumed. This time the Japanese 
 
 CANE FIEI.n, WAIANAE.
 
 130 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 government ^va.s careful that the regulations of the treaty were fully 
 complied witli and Hawaii was obliged to continue to accept the influx 
 of this people. It ma}- l)e well to say here that the matter of the j^revious 
 trouljle was satisfactorily settled before the annexation of the island 
 repuljlic to the United States. 
 
 There are many educated and intelligent Japanese on the islands, who 
 are prominent in business and have thrifty homes, but the class most 
 largely drawn hither is ignorant, impetuous, and liard to control. If 
 industrious, they are ambitious, and, seeing better tiian the Chinese the real 
 
 JAPAXESK IIOUSK.S. 
 
 inwardness of their situation, are dissatisfied witli it, waiting, watching for 
 the opportunity to strike a blow at the jjower wliirh attemjits to liold them 
 in check. There is too much of the Yankee about them to be held long in 
 surveillance, and, with their high percentage of poj)ulation, what the 
 outcome is to be is hard to forecast, thougli proltaldy no caii.se for serious 
 alarm . 
 
 While there is a great difference l)etween the condition of these " slaves 
 of Hawaii " and those of the old regime of the South, plantation life in 
 the islands is much tlie same as that was in the slave States of America 
 before 1801. The common visitor sees only the surface. The vast estate 
 is conducted in a patriarchal manner ; the big house occupied by the high-
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 131 
 
 salaried manager, set with wide verandas and embowered in flowers, stands 
 where it can command the best view of the situation. In the distance are 
 collections of the flat, plain houses of the labourers. Tlie Japanese are 
 usually nearest ; they have picked up Occidental ways so rapidly they like 
 to be near their masters ; and these like to have them as closely under their 
 eyes as possible, knowing the volcano of discontent rages under the calm 
 surface and is liable to break forth at any moment without warning. The 
 coolies, less mindful of their 
 future, are not as dangerous. 
 Their houses are perhaps a 
 mile or even two miles far- 
 ther up the mountainside. 
 There is nothing; striking; 
 about these villages, except 
 the painful imiformity of 
 the dwellings, possessing no 
 ornaments and few com- 
 forts, other than the little 
 plot of cultivated ground 
 around them. 
 
 Next to the Ijroad acres 
 of rank cane rustling in the 
 breeze are the mills where 
 the giant plants are sent 
 down the water-flume in a 
 furious passage, until torn, 
 and crushed into a shapeless 
 
 mass which is dropped at the foot of the sluice. But it is nut left here 
 to rest long, before it is taken tlirough the different stages of crushing 
 and pressing, purifying, until the black, sticky, ill-smelling syrup comes 
 out in a beautiful golden tint, pure and delicious, the perfection of sugar. 
 Everywhere the machinery is tended by Japanese, even to the last act in 
 the shifting scene, where the sugar bags are sewed together l)y the deft 
 lingers of a little Japanese woman in a holoku. In spite fif the grinding 
 competition in the sugar business, through the industi-y of this army of 
 lean, brown, active toilers, it has been made to yield in the aggregate 
 
 JAPANESE WOMAN.
 
 132 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 great profit here in Hawaii. But for tlii.s and for them, without a voice 
 in their management, the history of the iskinds must have been told with 
 far different results. 
 
 The plantation store is an important feature in the scene, for through 
 that the money of the labourer largely finds its way back to the power 
 controlling this mass of workers. The prices here are usually high, but 
 the buyer is helpless. So the wheel turns, crushing not only the cane but 
 a human grist. It is true many of these labourers are of the lowest class, 
 — criminals it may be, — the refuse of an inferior humanity brought to- 
 
 F 
 
 
 Igl^ 
 
 ^^H^^^H^£t^ '•'-ikMSKKT^ . .-:-' I'-^^SIk 
 
 
 -'\. ^'"-'i 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 4^V^.. -'"^ -- " 
 
 
 
 
 -'• -^-^^J^^ 
 
 
 .,■;■"• X ■■-.■. 
 
 
 .JAPANESE HOUSES. 
 
 gether promiscuously. Kiots and outbreaks are not common. It requires a 
 stern, strong overseer to hold in control such a gang, and doubtless there 
 are those who take advantage of their position to abuse those who are 
 powerless to help themselves. 
 
 If they attempt to desert, the only way for them to escape from their 
 bondage, the police force of the island is ready to hunt them down. When 
 captured, as they usually are, they are sometimes sent to the hot " reef " 
 to work until they are glad to get back to the cooler cane-field. 
 
 The worst of the situation is the common herding of the labourers — 
 male and female — nmch as a drove of cattle would be driven into their pen. 
 In the great yard of the station every morning, at one of these plantations,
 
 Jdpdih'se PlatiMioii Bjrlhr. Hawaii
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 133 
 
 hundreds of Japaiiese meu and women can be seen marching sullenly to 
 the fields. At midday this little army returns to the quarantined men 
 and women who have prepared their simple meal of rice, boiled turnips, 
 and meat, their daily fare. They lodge, as they eat, promiscuously. In a 
 big, poorly ventilated room they have their bunks or wide, bare beds, 
 where as many as half a dozen sleep together. It can be truthfully said 
 of them that few if any have seen better days, but under the sun of 
 American civilisation it is to be hoped a new day will soon dawn for the 
 unfortunate race. A new treaty with Japan, which went into effect in 
 1899, allows the United States to regulate the immigration of Japanese 
 labourers. They are now free to come from Hawaii to this country, but 
 as yet none have shown a disposition to do so. 
 
 There is a Japanese Methodist Episcopal church founded by Rev. H. 
 Kihara, a native of Japan, who was converted in California, who then 
 came' to Hawaii. His membership consists of about eighty of his own 
 people, but who are poor. 
 
 KlKUl TKKES.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE CHINESE IN PARADISE. 
 
 PREJUDICED as the average American is against the Oriental races, 
 it is not easy for him to realise the different standing and impor- 
 tance of the Chinese in Hawaii to that of his own country. Unlike 
 the clannish and ignorant inhabitants of Chinatown, San Francisco, or of 
 
 any of the continental cities, 
 in a climate suited to his 
 nature and imder influences 
 tending to develop his better 
 elements, the Chinaman in 
 Hawaii is really a useful 
 and respected citizen. He 
 has become, in fact, a Ha- 
 waiian, just as much as 
 the Irishman, German, and 
 Swede, under conditions 
 (M|iially favoTU-able to them, 
 have become accepted as 
 Americans. This does not 
 mean, by any means, that 
 he has entirely lost the in- 
 herent characteristics of his 
 countrymen, — it will re- 
 quire many generations to 
 do this, — but that he is a 
 faithful and zealous subject of liis adopted landj where so many of its pop- 
 ulation are aliens. 
 
 Early in the days of modern Hawaii, through the sandalwood trade, 
 being the principal market for this valuable export, China began to play 
 an important part in the development of the islands. To a Chinese mer- 
 
 134 
 
 LlDUAia. lI".\i>LI
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 135 
 
 chant, who came to Hawaii in 1802, in the sandalwood business, belongs 
 the credit of tirst manufacturing sugar from cane growing wild on the 
 island. But the process was too slow to make the work a success, and it 
 was left for the inventive genius of the Americans to reduce the enter- 
 prise to a profitable science. 
 
 Chinese immigration then followed, very much after the manner of the 
 coming of the European races into the United States at the outset of open- 
 ing up of the country. The better class of Chinamen, with a spirit of 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■J 
 
 H 
 
 ^^^^^^^ 
 
 
 
 a^'-jK- f^?tfSi^3B 
 
 3 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 *. 
 
 IIANALEI RIVER AND RICE FIELDS. 
 
 enterprise and adventure coupled with the natural desire to better their 
 fortunes, came as traders or labourers having the genuine purpose of stay- 
 ing permanently. Liking the climate and country, they soon lost all 
 desire to return to their native lanil, and those wlio had left wives and 
 families at home sent for them to help found new homes here. More than 
 the race has done in any other country they associated with the other 
 inhabitants, intermarrying with them, until to-day a Chinaman is consid- 
 ered the best match possible for a native Hawaiian. 
 
 The pioneers came about three-fourths of a century ago, but tlie tide of 
 immigration had not fairly set in that direction until 1840, and even then
 
 136 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 the rush did not begin. This came comparatively a few years since, when 
 the fright over the flood of the Japanese caused the authorities to compel the 
 planters and seekers after cheap labour to look to China for their help. 
 This of course brought an influx of the lower class, but the better element 
 had gained a footing and a higher standing than the natives of Japan have 
 yet acquired, or will for a long time to come. 
 
 In the grave perils of the eighties, when immigration was overruning the 
 islands to the menace of its civil liberties, this class joined with others zeal- 
 ous for the good of the government to miiiinnse the common evil by weed- 
 
 UMBRELLA TREE, COCOANUT ISLAND. 
 
 ing out as much as possible the masses of those who, their term of bondage 
 over, tended to become hangers-on of the country, — paupers and criminals. 
 The consequence was that a large percentage of the Chinese, who had no 
 tie to bind them longer to the islands, were sent home as soon as their 
 time of contract service had expired. The end of the century will find 
 the last contract closed, and but a few of these labourers in the country. 
 
 It is true fewer Chinese women come to the islands than of the other 
 races, yet they do come in considerable numbers, and the homes of the 
 people, from the humble huts of the plantation toilers on the mountain- 
 sides to the luxurious dwellings in the centres of population, are found in
 
 i;
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 137 
 
 all parts of the seven isles. The following statistics will give a good idea 
 of the situation: According to the census of 1896 there were 21.616 
 Chinese on the islands, — 19,167 males and 2,449 females. There were 
 2,234 who had been born in Hawaii, and of 19,317 Chinese over six jears 
 of age, 48.47 per cent, can read English or Hawaiian or both. Of 665 
 Chinese children wdthin school age, 92.48 per cent, attend school. The 
 Hawaiian-born Chinese are 10.3 per cent, of the population born of for- 
 eign parents. One-fourth of the Chinese men over fifteen years of age 
 are married, while of 1,269 females, 1,173 are married, and the average 
 
 BAMBOO TREE. 
 
 number of children born to a Chinese mother is 2.83 ])er cent. Of these 
 children 87.56 per cent, survive. Since 1845, notwithstanding tliat the 
 naturalisation of the Cliinese has l)een discouraged, and since the over- 
 throw of the monarchy no one of any race or nationality has been so 
 favoured, 722 Chinese have been given their naturalisation papers. 
 
 In regard to occupation, tlie Chinese, male and female, are divided as 
 follows: Labourers, 10,941; farmers, 1,278; rice planters, 718; team- 
 sters, 105 ; mechanics, 220 ; fisliers, 294 ; ranchers, 98 ; coffee planters, 
 36 ; mariners, 15 ; merchants and traders, 823 ; clerks and salesmen, 295 ; 
 doctors, 15 ; other professions, such as teachers, law clerks, etc., 303 ; 
 miscellaneous occupations, 1,569. Nearly a thousand of the Chinese have
 
 138 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 professed the Christian religion, ' sixty-seven having joined the Roman 
 Catholic Chnrcli, and 886 the Protestant. 
 
 The number of Chinese owning their homes is 800, all but 200 of 
 their houses being built on long-leased lands, which is the prevailing 
 custom among all nationalities. They own more horses and working- 
 cattle than any other race, having over three thousand horses and nearly 
 half as many cattle. They own 7,802 pigs, a larger number than any 
 other race on the islands. In Hawaii each business is licensed, and the 
 
 NUUANU STREET, HONOLULU. 
 
 Chinese in 1897 held 1,623 licenses, paying to the government in these 
 fees $48,724. They own property assessed at $125,274.31, and they 
 paid in 1897, with their license fees, nearly one-eighth of the amount 
 raised in taxes fur the year. An observant writer says of the race : 
 
 " As independent farmers and agriculturists, the Chinese lunnber 
 1,278. Most of these have only small holdings. They raise vegetables, 
 which are largely sold to the white families, and when away from the 
 centres of population, corn, potatoes, and figs are their chief sources 
 of income. As rice planters the}^ have almost a monopoly, numbering
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 139 
 
 718 out of 844. Ill this line the Chinese have lieen of great benefit 
 to the countiy. Large areas of land which were untit for ordinary 
 cultivation, great reed-covered swamps, whirh were the home of the 
 wild duck and the water-hen, have been made productive by them, and 
 now yield a fine rent to the owners of the land and a revenue in taxa- 
 tion to the government. As fishermen, the Chinese stand next to the 
 Hawaiians, numbering no less than 294. But the Hawaiian fisher- 
 men work chiefly each for 
 themselves or in little com- 
 panies of from three to half 
 a dozen. The Chinese work 
 in large companies, a firm 
 of small capitalists owning 
 the boats, nets, and diying- 
 houses and other buildings, 
 and employing their own 
 countrymen at wages, and 
 sometimes with a small in- 
 terest in the firm, to do the 
 work. If there is one thing 
 that this race understands 
 better than another, it is co- 
 operative labour. By means 
 of it they get more out of 
 their workers than any other 
 race can obtain out of them. 
 
 The Chinese take the lead among merchants and traders, more than 
 half of those so employed l^eing Chinese." 
 
 The Chinese servants, of which tiicre are many, with Japanese a good 
 second, seldom live in the house with their employers, l)ut have dwell- 
 ings of their own, going to their place of occupation in the morning and 
 returning to their homes in the evening. They ask for only one holiday, 
 the Chinese New Year, which conies on February 1st. Then they 
 absent themselves for the time, and their places must be filled by other 
 persons. Before going it is the custom to make their "mamma," or 
 mistress, a present of some Chinese trinket, a high-coloured vase, some 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 ^P 
 
 d 
 
 ->^^sM 
 
 
 ; 
 
 %i 
 
 ; 
 
 
 ^^^^^K^B^^MB l^^^^^X 
 
 WILD (ilNUKK.
 
 140 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 fancy work, flowers or sweetmeats, receiving in return some gift that 
 is sure to be appreciated by them. 
 
 The Chinese are among the most generous contributors to educational 
 and benevolent enterprises, calUng less on the general resources for 
 charity than any other nationality. The fountainhead of the philan- 
 thropic work is the United Chinese Society of Honolulu, a representative 
 body including all the smaller organisations, concerning which it has 
 
 A LANAI OK VEHAXDA. 
 
 been said : " The functions of the United Chinese Society includes all 
 those things, whether of business, philanthroijy, j^nblic spirit, race, or 
 national matters, or matters of intellectual uplift, which can be better 
 done throuah orsranisation than l)v individual interests. It succours the 
 
 CD iD ^ 
 
 poor, finds work for the unemployed, takes care of the sick, relieves 
 widows and orphans, buries the dead, sees to the return to China of the 
 bones of those who, dying here, wished their bones buried on their 
 ancestral soil. It has charge of the public celebrations, of national 
 holidays and events ; it entertains those who are the guests of the
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 141 
 
 whole people. It looks aftei- the general interest of the Chinese in 
 Hawaii." 
 
 Honolulu has been aptly termed the Paradise of the Chinese. In tlieir 
 quarters, for even in Hawaii they collect together more or less, one sees 
 none of the filthy alleys and unsightly homes. The yards are surrounded 
 by neat fences and flowers. The walls of the dwellings are festooned 
 with vines, and over trelli.ses are seen ripening figs and other fruits. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 STREET IN HONOLULU. 
 
 Everywhere peace and contentment reign, for the industrious Mon- 
 golian here follows his busy routine or work or business Avithout fear 
 of molestation. His tiny shops, instead of show-windows having tlieir 
 entire fronts open during the day and closed with stout wooden shutters 
 at night, line the streets. Numerous occupations have been taken up by 
 them, one of the most common being that of the tailor, John in his 
 native dress and queue, running a sewing-machine in making cotton 
 holokus for the Hawaiian women, presenting an odd picture of Oriental 
 and Occidental life. But this is not at all noticeable in the Hawaiian
 
 142 
 
 THE FAI{ EAST. 
 
 capital, which affords a shifting panorama of lives of many colours and 
 combinations of customs. 
 
 Chinatown would lose its most prominent trait without its joss-houses 
 with their curious architecture and worshippers crooning and mumbling 
 before their hideous gods. These are not lacking in Honolulu, though 
 they are less pretentious in appearance than those seen in San Fran- 
 
 lUSIlOr MUSEUM. 
 
 cisco. The Chinese here, too, have two theatres, where actors of repute 
 and ability perform their parts to appreciative audiences. 
 
 In close proximity to their temples of worship are the schools, the 
 largest Chinese schools outside of the empire, where the pupils, numbering 
 about one hundred and fifty, are taught English as well as their own 
 language, which is soon forgotten when they have acquired the former. 
 They have a most attractive kindergarten, separate rooms being fitted up 
 with charts, pictures, blackboards, and tables, for the boys and girls, all 
 of whom look very picturesque, if not pretty, in their native costumes, and 
 show great eagerness to master the tasks before them.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 143 
 
 The Chinese of Honolulu support two cliurclies, the Christian, of Congre- 
 gational affiliations, and St. Paul's, whose patron is tlie Anglican Bishop of 
 Honolulu. There is also a Chinese Young Men's Cln-istian Association, 
 the first of its kind in the world. This is well orgawised and supported, 
 but for more effective work among its class is the Mills Institute, the 
 Chinese name of which is Chum Chan Shue Shat, meaning " searching for 
 truth literary institution." A home day and boarding school for Chinese 
 
 AVKNIK (iK TAIM; 
 
 l-HlVAlt i;AliI>IiN. 
 
 youth occupies commodious buildings, set in beautiful grounds near the 
 centre of Honolulu. Its influence is felt all over the islands, and it is 
 generously maintained by Chinese and whites. 
 
 What is likely to prove a popular l)enevolent institution is the Chinese 
 hospital recently completed in Honolulu on grounds given by the govern- 
 ment f(jr that purpose. It is in charge of a physician and surgeon 
 graduated in Hong Ivoiig according to Occidental system of medicine and 
 surgery, also another trained in the same city but under the Chinese 
 methods of treatment, the patient being allowed his choice. This hospital
 
 144 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 is liberally supported by the Chinese and is free to receive patients from 
 that nationality. 
 
 Honolulu has a well-equipped and well-disciplined Chinese fire brigade, 
 which has built its own engine-house, and bought its engines and uniforms 
 from money raised by subscription among its own countrymen. 
 
 As might be expected in a community as numerous and prominent as 
 that of the Chinese in Hawaii, there are to be found many men of thought 
 and action, who are not only leaders among their countrymen, but who 
 are prominent among the business and professional men of all nationalities. 
 Under the Hawaiian government, monarchy or republic, the race has been 
 treated fairly and has no complaint to make, though from apparent 
 reason a large percentage are not really citizens and cannot become such, 
 but are aliens. The treaty of annexation to the United States i^rohibits 
 any further immigration of the Chinese to Hawaii, or from that territory 
 to the continent. But unlike the Japanese, the Chinese are not much 
 inclined to meddle with politics, and appear a contented people in American 
 Hawaii. 
 
 
 ^^^^^HLM^^? 
 
 
 '\ \ ■ ' ■ '" v^l 
 
 
 
 •', , '''"?.' v.'i'''-l.'S-f»" 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
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 l^itS'^- '>iv^ 
 
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 ^* 
 
 '4 
 
 ^'•■ 
 
 i 
 
 
 W^j JUL . -^^vtm 
 
 ROYAL PALM AVENUE.
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 I
 
 NDDANU AVENUE. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 ANNEXATIOX. 
 
 WITHIN a hundred years the flags of European countries have 
 floated over tlie ishmds four times: first, the Russian in 1815 ; 
 second, the French in 1839; third, the British in 1843; and 
 fourth, the French again in 1819, when Admiral TromeUn, of the navy 
 of France, seized the fort at Honohihi. Rehictantly eacli time these 
 powers had withdrawn their hokl ui)on tlie little kingdom, and ever after- 
 ward stood expectantly waiting for the opportunity when they could 
 lay their hands on this '* Key of the Pacific." Another power, too, Japan, 
 had sprung into the front rank of aspiring nations, presenting a stronger 
 tlireat than all the others against the safety of the new govermnent. 
 
 The idea of annexation to the United States was transplanted by the 
 Yankees along with their business connections. Thus, with tlieir 
 Americanising influences, we see. from the days of the first Kamehameha 
 
 145
 
 1-4G 
 
 THE FAU EAST. 
 
 througli all the changes of rulers, a continual agitation of this subject, 
 and time and again appeals were made for some sort of an alliance with 
 the great American republic. 
 
 The Provisional Government A\'as no sooner formed than a commission 
 was sent to Washington to reiterate in stronger terms than ever this claim. 
 This commission consisted of Hon. L. A. Thurston, "VV. C. Wilder, W. R. 
 Castle, J. Marsden, and C. L. Carter, and the same steamer that conveyed 
 
 GOVKKN.MKNT HIII.DING. 
 
 them to San Francisco carried a letter of remonstrance from the ex- 
 queen. 
 
 Benjamin Harrison was then President of the United States, and he was 
 believed to feel friendly toward the measure. Minister John L. Stevens 
 and Captain Wiltse of the navy decided to establish a temporary pro- 
 tectorate over the islands, and raised the flag of the United States on 
 February 1, 1893, when the first issued the following proclamation : 
 
 " At the request of the Provisional Government of the Hawaiian Islands, ' 
 I hereby, in the name of the United States of America, assume protection
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 147 
 
 of the Hawaiian Islands for the protection of life and property, and occu- 
 pation of public buildings and Hawaiian soil, so far as may be necessary 
 for the purpose specified, but not interfering with the administration of 
 public affairs by the Provisional Government. This action is taken pend- 
 ing and subject to the negotiation at Washington." 
 
 The American Secretary of State, however, did not approve of the action, 
 claiming that it was not consistent with the existing state of affairs be- 
 tween the countries to impair " in any way the independent sovereignty of 
 the Hawaiian government by 
 substituting the flag and power 
 of the United States as symbol 
 and manifestation of paramount 
 authority." A new political 
 power came into possession of 
 the government at Washington, 
 and upon the inauguration of 
 President Cleveland on March 
 4, 1893, he withdrew the treaty. 
 On the 11th instant he sent 
 Commissioner Blount to Hawaii 
 to investigate the situation. 
 
 March 31st Commissioner 
 Blount notified President Dole 
 that the American protectorate 
 must end, and April 1st the 
 American flag was hauled down 
 without any public notice, as 
 
 President Dole feared an outbreak from the masses if it should be known 
 abroad at the time. The royalists now believed there was hope for them, 
 while the European powers did not attempt to conceal tlieir pleasure over 
 the turn in affairs. 
 
 Though severely censured by some, no doubt Conmiissioner Blount made 
 such an investigation as he could under the peculiar circumstances in 
 which he was placed. At any rate his report was not favourable to an- 
 nexation, and it became apparent the administration had little objection 
 toward reinstating the deposed queen if it could be done quietly, pro- 
 
 k ^^-MEBr^ a..
 
 148 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 fessing to l^elieve that she had been treated unfairlj^ by the American 
 minister in landing troops at the critical period of the revolution. We 
 have seen that this was done without any motives of intervention, except 
 to protect American property, which this government was bound to do in 
 case of any outbreak. If restored to power the queen must " grant full 
 amnesty to all who had participated in the move against her, including 
 persons who are or have been officially or otherwise connected with the 
 
 NUUANU STREET, HONOLULU. 
 
 Provisional Government, depriving them of no right or privilege which 
 they enjoyed before the so-called revolution. All obligations created by 
 the Provisional Government in the course of administration should be 
 assumed." 
 
 At first the queen flatly refused to accept these terms, but finally agreed 
 to them and signed the proper papers, when Mr. Willis, who had succeeded 
 Minister Stevens, presented it to the president of the Provisional Govern- 
 ment, who declined to agree to the proposition, or to yield the power which 
 had been vested in him as the chief executive of Hawaii, and also as min-
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 149 
 
 ister of foreign affairs. Upon receiving this report President Cleveland 
 commended the vexatious matter " to the extended powers and wise 
 discretion of Congress," where no special action was taken. 
 
 The Provisional Government remained firm in its possession, though the 
 royalists and their sympathisers continued to hope that the United States 
 would yet step in and reinstate the queen. When the republic was form- 
 ally announced on July 4, 1894, the United States recognised its au- 
 thority, and other national powers did so during the year, so that the 
 republic was fairly established, though the government rested upon a 
 
 I'Kocr.AMATIDX (IK HEl'UBLIc, .lll.Y 4, ls:i4. 
 
 volcano, which, like its fiery mountains, Avas lialjle to break out at any 
 nidincnt. 
 
 Tlie political leaders and jjlotters of the defeated part}' kept the natives 
 in a continual condition of alarm, fearful that their property or liberty 
 would be taken from them. Bv some it was believed that the colour line 
 would be drawn as it had never been. Plots and schemes were soon afoot, 
 no (loul)t with the knowledge if not the assistance of the queen, to restore 
 her to power. Arms were procured and concealed to be in readiness for 
 use in case the plans should mature. Secret meetings wei'e held in the 
 \icinity of Ilonoluhi with increasing frequency, and early in the new 3'ear,
 
 150 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 on the afternoon of Sinulay, Jannary Gtli, tlie police were notified tliat a 
 party of suspicious cliaracters, mostly natives, were gathered at a house 
 near Diamond Head. Captain R. W. Parker immediately sent some officers 
 with search warrants to the place. On their way they were joined by four 
 Americans, but native born. Upon reaching the houses the party was fired 
 upon, and one of the volunteers, Mr. Charles L. Carter, who had been a 
 member of the late commission to the United States, was mortally wounded, 
 so that he died a few hours later. The situation now looked serious. 
 
 At the time religious services were being held at the Central Union 
 Church, where a large congregation had gathered, and the Rev. Mr. 
 
 WAIKIKI ROAD ALONG THE illAt I] 
 
 Bernie was in the midst of one of his eloquent discourses when, unnoticed 
 by the listeners, a man entered the building and whispered to a member 
 of the National Guards sitting near the door : 
 
 " The natives have opened hostilities at Bertlemann's house beyond 
 Waikiki. They have killed Carter, and w'ounded two or three. Notify 
 the members of the Guards to meet at their quarters at once." 
 
 This man, whose name was Benner, went silently and swiftly from 
 pew to pew, and whispered to those here and there the call, when each 
 individual went out without disturbing the preacher, who must have 
 felt surprise at seeing so many quietly leaving him. If those who were 
 left were curious as to the cause which had taken so many of their 
 number away, quiet reigned in the house until the clatter of horses' feet,
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 151 
 
 as the cavalry da.slied past, and the rei)ort of hreariiis aroused all to a 
 sense of the situation. A rush was immediately made for the door, and 
 Mr. Bernie, thus rudely broken in his sermon, followed his congrega- 
 tion to learn the extent of the alarm and its cause. 
 
 Soldiers were to be seen forming and marching away ; there was 
 news of fighting near Diamond Head ; flying reports of many killed 
 and wounded were repeated on every hand, while intense excitement 
 reigned in all sections. An insurrection was on foot, but beyond that 
 
 m.SIIOP HALL, OAllI' COLI.KCE. 
 
 the best posted could give nothing definite. That was tlie most anxious 
 night Honolulu ever knew. The gravity and danger of the situation 
 was now fully realised, and the following day twelve hundred armed 
 men were called to the assistance, and martial law proclaimed. 
 
 Sharp fighting ensued for several days, until the native forces under 
 the command of Samuel Nowlein, formerly colonel of the queen's body- 
 guard, and Robert Wilcox, who had been at the head of the uprising in 
 18S7, Avere forced to surrender. Several of their number had been 
 killed, and the uprising w^as at last under control. During this and
 
 152 
 
 THE FAU EAST. 
 
 all jjrevious revolutions seven lives had been lost on the republic's side, 
 and as many wounded. 
 
 A trial was given the captured conspirators, beginning January 17th 
 and lasting for thirty-six days. The leaders were sentenced to pay 
 heavy fines, and to suffer long terms of imprisonments. The ex-queen, 
 believed to have been concerned in the insurrection, was arrested and 
 given trial with the others. Her sentence was a fine of five thousand 
 dollars and imprisonment for five years. She remained in detention until 
 December, when her sentence w^as remitted, and signing a formal letter 
 
 DIAMOND HKAD. 
 
 of abdication on January 24, 1895, she was fully pardoned. She then 
 started on a journey abroad, coining to the United States during her tour. 
 Uninterrupted peace succeeded, while the Hawaiian republic grew 
 steadily stronger and more prosperous. It now showed that it had 
 level-headed men at its head, and that it was deserving of consideration ; 
 that annexation to the United States meant a " consummation, not a 
 change." The politics of the United States government, which had 
 ever had much to do with the policy of Hawaiian annexation, again 
 had changed. Hawaiian commissioners aj^peared in Washington soon 
 after tlie inauguration of President McKinley, and an annexation treaty 
 was sent to the Senate. Wliile this body he-sitated and considered the
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 153 
 
 matter, the Spanish-American war broke out ; Admiral Dewey won liis 
 famous victory at Manila, and with the prospect of the United States' 
 new power in the Far East, the need of the Hawaiian Islands as a half-way 
 station on the broad Pacific was realised as it never had been before. The 
 bill of annexation now met with little opposition, and on Thursday, July 
 7, 1898. President McKinley approved of the work of Congress l)y his 
 
 ollicial signature, when tlie dream of American Hawaii was at last ful- 
 filled. 
 
 July 18th, the steamer Coptic reached Honolulu from San Francisco, 
 carrying the news of annexation. As this fact liad been anticipated, the 
 people were prepared to receive the messenger with demonstrations of 
 delight. Whistles from mills, foundries, and steamers screamed out the 
 announcement of the tidings from everj- quarter; fireworks set the 
 ttnvn ablaze ; while the streets were paraded by marching columns and 
 bands i)layed patriotic American airs. Altogether it was a great jubilee, 
 and Captain Sealby, who had brought the news, was presented with a 
 souvenir cup bearing the following inscription :
 
 164 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 "Annexation. Presented by tlie citizens to Capt. Innian Sealby, R. N. 
 R., who brought the good news to Honoliihi." 
 
 The linal act in the long and momentous drama of annexation was 
 enacted on August 12, 18'J8, when, at precisely eight minutes to twelve 
 o'clock noon, the Hawaiian flag was hauled down from the flagstaffs on all 
 of the government buildings, and just three minutes later the stars and 
 stripes were run up in their places. The ceremonies were simple and 
 
 HAWAIIAN FKAST. 
 
 impressive, as became the scene. A noticeable feature of the occasion was 
 the small number of Hawaiians witnessing the event. They were showing 
 their affection for their former queen, who had returned to her native land 
 a few days before. No people have stronger love for their rulers than the 
 natives of Hawaii. At a public reception given Liliuokalani a short time 
 before, many of them had come miles to pay her homage. To-day their 
 absence spoke, more forcibly for them than any words could have done, 
 their feelings. In more ways than one the occasion reminded the specta- 
 tors of a funeral, which it partly was : the last rites over a traditional 
 government. The national anthem, " Hawaii Ponoi," was played for the
 
 HAWAII. 155 
 
 last time ; the bugle tapped, and the Hawaiian ensign of the Kame- 
 hamehas, under which many of those present had been born, sank from 
 sight for ever as a national emblem. Amid the intense silence of the 
 onlookers came the bugle call again, the band jilayed the " Star Spangled 
 Banner," when "' Old Glory " rose on the troi)ical breeze, henceforth the 
 national flag of the first republic of the Pacific. Cheers noAV rang on 
 the air ; eyes that were moist with tears a minute before brightened as the 
 new colours made a beautiful picture overhead, which seemed to augur 
 well for the future. 
 
 The hour fraught witli so much sadness to the Hawaiian passed, and 
 having a better and fuller appreciation of the new era dawning upon their 
 home land, the new subjects of Uncle Sam moved about with lighter hearts 
 than they had known since the beginning of the revolution. The republic 
 has nothing to fear from them, for more loyal subjects never acknowledged 
 fealty to a sovereign. 
 
 The population of the islands in 189G was 109,020, divided as follows 
 among the different races: Hawaiian, 31,019; mixed Hawaiian, 8,485; 
 Japanese, 2-4,000; Chinese, 21,000; Portuguese, 15,000; other Europeans, 
 4,000 ; Americans, 3,086. But these figures do not forecast the true situ- 
 ation. Notwithstanding the small percentage of their number, the islands 
 are an American colony. What Hawaii has gained of civilisation, of 
 religion, of education, and government has been derived from American 
 sources. Neither have the islands been unmindful of this. Everywhere 
 American influence has been acknowledged, and American counsel sought. 
 They proved their loyalty to the Union by sending into the army during 
 the civil war more than their quota of soldiers voluntarily^ Our patriotic 
 days have been observed with all the enthusiasm as at home. In Hono- 
 lulu Fourth of July is as faithfully kept as here ; Memorial Day sees its 
 lines of marching veterans filing in solemn manner to the graves of her 
 soldier dead, followed by citizens of every nationality as sincere mourners ; 
 and Thanksgiving Day is observed with even greater faithfulness than in 
 New England. No territory of the United States has been annexed with 
 so strong a leaven of Americanism as these islands. 
 
 Chief Justice Judd administered the oath of allegiance to President Dole 
 and the other officials, all of whom were authorised to conduct the local 
 government of the islands until Congress should take further action in the 
 matter of administration.
 
 MERCHANTS COIXTKV IIOl 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 VISTAS OF OAIIU. 
 
 OAHU, if not the largest, the most fertile or picturesque of the 
 group, is the most important of the Hawaiian Islands, a supremacy 
 gained for it by its harbours, the finest in the Pacific. Its sea- 
 coast, brolven on the southeast by rocky islands, and on the southwest, 
 or windward side, by rugged cliffs thrusting their high, craggy breasts 
 down to the very edge of the water, where the surf beats with an incessant 
 roar, is generally bordered by a belt of fertile plains from a quarter of a 
 mile in width to six miles, ascending toward the interior until stopped by 
 the mountain ranges, whose brown and yellow tints, showing their volcanic 
 origin, contrast vividly with the perennial green of the lowlands. Between 
 these ridges, which look in the sea distance like terraced hills and detached 
 peaks, are frequent valleys and elevated plateaus of great fertilit}-, the lava 
 beds of unrecorded days. 
 
 Long sections fringed with graceful cocoa-palms raising their plumed 
 crests on fragile stems, a coral reef, often half a mile in width, nearly 
 encircles the island. 
 
 Trending from southeast to northwest parallel mountain ranges cross the 
 
 lofl
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 15/ 
 
 island on the east and west sides. The highest altitude is the peak of 
 Kaula, 4,060 feet above the sea, and belonging to the western and shorter 
 line. Between these backbones of Oaliu. and forming its largest agricul- 
 tural districts, is Ewa Plain, at ])laces ten miles in width and twenty in 
 length, extending from the shore of Peai'l River harbour on the south to 
 the sandy plains of Waialua Ba}^ district on the north. Next in size, and 
 3xceeding it in fertility, is the rich, alluvial plain of Honolulu, ten miles in 
 length and two in width. Another ideal tract is Nuuanu Valley, bounded 
 
 LAVA IIEAI' 
 
 by a mountain wall twenty miles in length on the upper side, and below 
 by the green, rolling plain. Among the other fertile lands are Manoa 
 A^alley, inland from Waikiki, six miles south of the capital, and the 
 favoured rice-fields and cocoanut groves of Moanalua, scarcely five miles 
 from Honolulu in the opposite direction. 
 
 At the foot of the eastern range of mountains, on what was seventy- 
 five years ago a treeless sand-plain, sits the " Mistress of the Pacific," 
 her back to the wide framework of lava domes, volcanic peaks, and 
 truncated cones, grim reminders still of thu.se days when this scene was
 
 158 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 the ampliitheatre of that fiery power at work upon its still unfinished 
 task of building the Island Paradise. Decked with her flowers and 
 profusion of palms, the queen sits looking out upon the shimmering bay, 
 a native of the tropics, with the blood of the temperate zone coursing 
 throuo;h her veins. 
 
 Honolulu is on the south shore of Oahu, nearly central of the whole 
 group of islands, and has a harbour well suited to the needs of a com- 
 mercial metropolis. It is said that Captain Brown, of the English ship 
 Butterivorth, was the first white man to discover the bay, and he gave 
 it the name of Fairhaven. This was very appropriate, but was soon 
 forgotten when its Hawaiian substitute was found. As has been men- 
 tioned, Karaehameha's John Smith, whose surname was Young, advised 
 making this the site of the Hawaiian capital, and in November, 1820, 
 the little fishing hamlet was occupied as the future seat of power. 
 
 The entrance to the harbour is somewhat difficult to those ignorant 
 of the windings of its passage, but once the way is made the incom- 
 ing craft ride safely at anchor within its protecting arms. One of 
 the most striking landmarks that attracts the approaching seafarer is 
 Leahi, or Diamond Head, looking in the distance like a huge watch-dog 
 crouching on his forepaws at this exposed point, while he continues his 
 long and lonely vigil over the sea. Once, when its sides throbbed with 
 the mighty forces at play within, it must have presented a majestic form, 
 — a stupendous lighthouse illuminating far and wide the troubled 
 waters. But its mighty walls fell with the blowing out of its light 
 thousands of years ago, and ever since its ruins have remamed as a 
 memento of its former greatness. 
 
 Honolulu has a population in round numbers of thirty thousand, a 
 cosmopolitan people, refined, intelligent, prosperous, earnest in whatever 
 they undertake. You see this in the cleanliness of the seventy miles of 
 streets, in its Avell-built brick and stone business blocks, in its handsome 
 residences, in its public buildings, in its good roads about the city, and 
 its attractive drives into the country. It is a city of foliage and flowers, 
 whose tropical trees and plants are laden with a wide variety of fruit 
 and fragrance; it is preeminently the city of homes, where tenement 
 houses are comparatively unknown. 
 
 The public buildings are in keeping with the thriving city, among
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 159 
 
 which can he named the Govei'nment Building and National Palace, 
 line buildings botli of tliem in settings of trees, flowers, and beautiful 
 lawns, with spacious gruunds ; Honolulu Free Librar\', which contains 
 over twelve thousand volumes of general literature ; Post-Office Building ; 
 Bishop Museum ; Public Hospital ; lolani Palace, claimed to cost five 
 hundred thousand dollars ; Aliiolani Hall, the main government build- 
 ing, where the Legislature meets ; Lunalilo Home, built by that king 
 as a home for aged and indigent Hawaiians ; Queen's Hospital, in- 
 
 Y. M. C. A. liIlI.I)IN(;. 
 
 tended for the relief of Hawaiians of both sexes free ; Young Men's 
 Christian Association Building ; Old Folks' Home ; Opera House, 
 capable of seating one thousand people ; Oahu Jail ; Insane Asylum ; 
 Royal Mausoleum, and many others. Handsome churches of various 
 denominations, as has been described, and good schools of the several 
 grades and Oahu College speak of the moral and educating influences 
 of the people. The city has a good system of water-works, and a well- 
 equipped lire department with latest steam fire engine. 
 
 Honolulu is favoured with a fine lookout. Punch Bowl Hill, the burnt-
 
 IGO 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 off cone of. an extinct crater, rising in a circular form to a height of 
 almost five hundred feet, with the town and its suburbs at its base. 
 From this sightly spot the surrounding country, from Diamond Head on 
 the east to Pearl River on the west, is spread out like a panorama. 
 
 The most popular resort of the island is the famous Waikiki, the Long 
 Branch of Honolulu. Here are fine private residences, picturesque cottages, 
 
 WAIANAE. 
 
 cool and delicious groves of cocoanut-trees which were the favourite resort 
 of early kings ; in the background the corrugated mountain range ; in 
 front, the wide crescent beach, one horn tipped by the red crag of Diamond 
 Head, and the other by the ojjal tints of Waianae range ; outside the 
 emerald sea, dancing, sparkling, inviting all to its soothing embrace. 
 There are attractive bath-houses, and ocean bathing here has none of the 
 chill freshness of a New England atmosphere. There is no fairer beach, 
 no smoother bottom, no clearer water tlian at Waikiki, and, what is better, 
 every one seems to catch the spirit of tlie native, who is never so much at
 
 Shrimp Fisherman, Hawaii
 
 HAWAII. 161 
 
 home as when, surf-board in hand, lie rides the rolling billows. The poet 
 proves something of its entrancing beauty, wIhmi he says : 
 
 ' The cocoa, with its crest of spears, 
 
 Stands sentry round the crescent shore, 
 An algaroba, bent with years, 
 
 Keeps watch beside tlic huiai door. 
 The cool winds fan the mango's cheek. 
 
 The mynah flits from tree to tree. 
 And zepliyrs to the roses s])eak 
 
 Their sweetest words at Waikiki. 
 
 " Like truant children of the deep 
 
 Escaped behind a coral wall, 
 The lisping wavelets laugh and weep, 
 
 Nor heed old ocean's stern recall. 
 All day they frolic with the sands. 
 
 Kiss pink-lipped shell with wanton glee, 
 Make windrows with their patting hands, 
 
 And singing sleep at Waikiki." 
 
 One of the most noted spots on the island of Oahu is the historic Pali, 
 that rugged pass in the Waianae range where, in the last great battle of 
 the early Hawaiians, the ill-fated Oahuans met their tragic fate from the 
 triumphant warriors of Kamehameha the Conqueror. This famous place is 
 reached from Honohdu by a wide, well-worn road leading through the 
 most beautiful dale on the island, Nuuanu Valley. Over this broad way in 
 the shifting scenes of the busy years has passed many a procession of his- 
 torical importance : the dusky ranks of an invading army, the dazzling 
 cortege of a triumphant monarchy, the trooping throng of women and 
 children carrying their his to the coronation of kings, the noisy mob of 
 insurrectionists, the funeral of the dead monai'ch marching silently to the 
 royal mausoleum, the sad-eyed columns of foreign labourers, with hopeless 
 homes behind and homeless hopes ahead, the standard bearers of a new 
 government, — all these, with many others, natives and strangers, have 
 passed along Nuuanu Avenue. 
 
 The traveller to-day over this memoral>le route passes a long line of 
 summer villas, — it is always summer in Nuuanu Valley, — crosses the
 
 162 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 bridge spanning the brawling stream ruiniing fnnii the mountain to 
 the sea, passes a hxndscape touched with the skill of Japanese artists, 
 passes gray-walled cemeteries where sleep the dead of the pioneers of 
 Honolulu, and the royal mausoleum, where the funereal C3-press bows in 
 grief over the long sleep of kings more generous than wise, passes the 
 odd, grotesque-looking tea-houses of the Chinese, passes the summer palace 
 of the ill-treated Dowager Queen Emma, set back beyond rows of stately 
 palms, passes taro patches and banana plantations, and large pineapple 
 fields in the distance, to find himself at last fairly in the country. 
 
 qceen's hospital. 
 
 Now he passes less frequently the homes of the foreigners, the American, 
 the European, and the Asiatic, the walls and wide verandas of whose dwell- 
 ings are overhung with trailing vines and flowering plants. If he is an 
 American he is struck by the unvarying architecture of the houses, which 
 seem to him a combination of the New England and Southern styles of 
 building, by the absence of chimneys, and the ever open doors and windows. 
 He soon learns to tell at sight the home of a Portuguese bv the grape-vine 
 and fig-tree before his door, as if the owner would not feel at home without 
 these reminders of his fatherland. A native cottage, the frame house 
 introduced by the missionaries, — few grass huts being seen now, more'a 
 the pity — occasionally greets his vision, a taro patch and bed of carna-
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 163 
 
 tions — red; pink, and white — defining his nationality as surely as the 
 fig and vine bespeaks that of his foreign neighljonr. 
 
 Around these dwellings are seen the Kanaka, tlie native Hawaiian, in 
 his eoarse cotton sliirt and trousers, his waihine mare, wife, in her liriglit- 
 coloured calico holokus falling loosely from a yoke at the shoulder and 
 without girdle or gathering. Thus simply and singly attired she might be 
 thought to be unattractive, Ijut with her profusion of raven hair, tied with 
 a gay bandelet of feathers and ohia blossoms, softly expressive dark eyes, 
 pleasant countenance, erect 
 figure, graceful and steady 
 carriage, she commands the 
 admiration of the beholder. 
 The young ivaihine, woman, 
 a dazzling vision of sparkling 
 eyes, pearly teeth, bright flow- 
 ers, and bare legs, is never 
 more happy than when, astride 
 of her flying pony, she startles 
 the timid stranger with her 
 boldness of address, her volup- 
 tuous bust roiuiding in grace- 
 ful curves, her undaunted head 
 bound with a brilliant bandeau, 
 a riding-robe of orange or crim- 
 son encircling her waist, hips, 
 and limbs, and thence sus- 
 pended waving on each side like triumphal banners in token of con- 
 fident victory, as she dashes past as free and fleet as the trade-wind 
 fanning her brow. Saturday afternoon is the time usually given over to 
 the wild spell of horsemanship. Then the whole native population seems 
 to be on horse. 
 
 Gradually ascending, the road leads into the region of perpetual showers, 
 clothing the brown sods of the hillsides with a dense sward outrivalling for 
 freshness and tenderness the famed blue grass of Kentucky, and decorating 
 the vales with matchless ferns, whose long fronds are tipped with a rich 
 red, brown, and crimson. Now the rank grass and ferns yield to forests of 
 
 F-1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ■|H 
 
 1 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ^^^1 Hiv* 
 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 ^^^3hh 
 
 ^^^hI 
 
 
 
 ^Sl 
 
 
 Mm^H 
 
 [^9 
 
 
 Bk!^ 
 
 
 __^H 
 
 K^»ai 
 
 muHJ^^I 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^SHH 
 
 m 
 
 « 
 
 ^^^^^^ 
 
 
 i^iHmH|i 
 
 I'lilNl'KSS KAIII.ANI IN NATIONAL COSTl'ME.
 
 164 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 wild banana, guava, and candlenut, with occasionally a cocoa-palm. The 
 walls of the valley grow higher, steeper, and narrower. Waterfalls tnmble 
 headlong over perpendicular chasms, and the chill wind that constantly 
 fans the peaks strikes the newcomer, sending a shiver through his frame 
 for the first time since landing on Oahu's shore. He has now been 
 suddenly transported to the tenqjerate zone. 
 
 Many have described the 
 beauty and sublimity of the 
 scene from the Pali, many 
 more will attempt it, but hu- 
 man powers of description will 
 never exhaust the theme or do 
 credit to the wide panorama 
 of tropical plains, valleys, 
 mountains, forests, rocky pin- 
 nacles, and sunny sea laid at 
 the feet of the admiring be- 
 holder. The Pali, which is 
 simply a Hawaiian word for 
 precipice, is the natural gate- 
 way between the two sections 
 of Oahu, separated by the 
 mountain range running across 
 the island from shore to shore. 
 This is seen as the api)roach- 
 ing traveller winds up the wide 
 road, with its rocky wall along 
 the west side, the perpendicu- 
 lar cliff on the other hand. 
 Through this gorge the wind constantly rushes as if propelled by a pair of 
 mighty bellows hung somewhere beyond, and he is glad to seek the 
 protection of the small lookout erected at the summit. Honolulu now 
 lies a thousand feet below, and between five and six miles away ; 
 its grove-like retreat of homes and churches and public buildings, the 
 masts of the ships in its harbour, and that always-to-be-seen Diamond 
 Head are just distant enough to lend charm to their fair environments. 
 
 LAVA PILE.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 165 
 
 Other towns and hamlets, other chiu'ch spires and schoolhouses, rice 
 and sugar plantations, isolated dwellings, broad plains covered with 
 their growing crops, ridges of smaller hills, with dales between, said to 
 have been the beds of an inland sea, and far beyond, meeting the 
 horizon, where the vision ends, rests the ocean, looking like a hv,ge mirror. 
 
 Upon turning in the opposite direction, toward Windward' Oahu, the 
 sightseer is amazed at the vivid contrast in the vistas. Instead of the 
 pretty villages and metropolis of men, the numerous plantations and 
 
 STIiKKT IN IKIXOI.n.l' 
 
 lioYAi. KrNKUAI. I'KOCKS 
 
 scattered dwellings of thrifty husbandmen, green-clad plains and verdant 
 valleys, he gazes on an extensive domain of imreclaimed lands, of frag- 
 mentary mountains whose splintered pinnacles pierce the overarching 
 sky, and half-hidden ravines running back into the rugged heights, 
 narrowed to points like so many huge wedges driven by some giant hand 
 to hold the ridges apart, that there might be room at their feet for the 
 lowlands belting the shore. It is seen now that Oalui is composed of 
 two dissimilar parts, its sunshine and its shadow. Amid this broken fast- 
 ness a sugar plantation is occasionally seen, here and there the black 
 stack of a sugar mill, a village or two, isolated homes of adventurous
 
 166 THE FAIl EAST. 
 
 fortiiue-seekers, nearer the coast the few rice fields of ambitions Chinamen, 
 biit on the whole man has done little to break in upon the solitude of 
 nature. Bejonil this wild, mountainous country the coral reefs of the 
 placid Pacific, its ultramarine of mid-ocean in the shallow waters of 
 the Hawaiian seas becoming an emerald hue, glimmer faintly in the 
 vanishing light. 
 
 The descent into this shadowland is abrupt, the road winding down at 
 an angle of forty-five degrees. The tourist gladly turns back from whence 
 he came, and no longer doubts the frenzy of the doomed warriors whose 
 wild retreat over the Pali gave the spot such a tragic interest. 
 
 Next to Honolulu, the most important towns on the island are Kanehoe, 
 at the foot of the Pali, the largest village on Windward Oahu, and con- 
 siderably cooler than at tlie c;ipital city ; Waianae, nestling at the base 
 of the mountains in a narrow valley on the southwest coast ; Waialua, a 
 large and prosperous village at the north end of the plain of that name ; 
 and last, but not least. Pearl City, nineteen miles from Honolulu by rail, 
 and the rival of that fair city in its beautiful setting of tropical verdure. 
 This town, founded by the Oahu Land and Railroad Company, and 
 belted on the north by a fertile strip of level land extending back to Ewa 
 Plains, now famous for the big Ewa sugar plantation, stands on a penin- 
 sula which extends into the harbour that may be considered the best in 
 the world as soon as it has been properly dredged. It was here the United 
 States secured such valuable rights in 1875. Pearl City has long been a 
 favourite resort for boating, bathing, and fishing, and is destined to rival 
 its sister only twelve miles distant by water line. 
 
 Above all else, this place and Honolulu lend to the Hawaiian Islands 
 their real value as a possession to any country. Already, the rajaid in- 
 crease of population on the Pacific slopes of America has set the tide of 
 navigation toward that shore ; with the United States controlling the 
 Philippines and the Nicaragua Canal a reality, who can foretell the vast 
 amount of ocean traific in this direction ? However great its growth or 
 mighty its power, Hawaii will still remain, as it is to-day, the one great 
 strategic point and half-way station Ijetween the continents, "the arbiter 
 that shall control and guide the commerce of the Northern Pacific. With 
 her important interests at home and aljroad, her capital will soon be not 
 only '• Mistress of the Pacific," but Empress of the maritime world.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 GRISI MOLOKAI. 
 
 THE Garden of Eden had its serpent, and a shadow fell across the 
 path of man even in that fair^'-land. The modern Adam is not 
 always satisfied with seeing only the bright side of the picture, and 
 he must look for the darker colouring. He imagines there is a shadow 
 somewhere, — a skeleton in the closet. Hawaii's skeleton is the leper; 
 its closet grim Molokai. 
 
 Though he really hears less of them after reaching the islands than he 
 had before coming, the newcomer feels that it is his duty to visit that 
 dark corner holding the banished victims of an incurable disease. It is 
 nut as easy as he had expected to obtain passage to the out-of-the-way 
 place. It is true the Board of Health make a semi-annual trip, but only 
 those in the secret know when it is to be made. The object of this 
 is not to lie overcrowded with a mob of curious foreigners or natives who 
 have friends and relatives there. Having, through some special influence, 
 gained permission to accompany one of these parties, he is likely then to 
 find a stormy passage, as if it were not intended that the lonely spot 
 should be easy of access. 
 
 The history of leprosy on the islands begins in 1853, when, in addition 
 to other epidemics and evils thrust upon the inoffensive Havvaiians, a 
 new disease appeared among them, Avhich they named 3Iai Pahe, or 
 Chinese sickness, as it had been brought to the islands by some Chinamen. 
 In the poor condition of their l)lood, this new disorder soon gained a start- 
 ling hold on the native population, so that as early as 1864 it had spread 
 to an alarming extent. January 3, 1865, the Legislature passed an act 
 to have those afHieted with tlie dread disease taken from the midst of 
 others who had so far escaped its contaminations. This necessitated the 
 Ijreaking up and separation of families, but it would enable those suffering 
 from it to be lietter treati'd. and it was Imjiud to stop in a measure the 
 
 167
 
 1G8 
 
 THE FAU EAST. 
 
 spread of the complaint, for, singularly enough, the natives showed no 
 fear of it, but persisted in mingling freely witli their afflicted kin. 
 
 A peninsula containing some five thousand acres, on the north coast of 
 Molokai, was selected as the most fitting place to carry out the really 
 humane purpose of the government. This comprised the fertile valley of 
 Kalawao, surrounded on three sides by the open sea, and on the other by 
 a steep pali from two to three thousand feet in height, so that retreat was 
 cut off in every direction. 
 
 .ANDING CATTLR. 
 
 The enforcement of the law for the segregation of lepers created no 
 little trouble for the authorities. Having no fear of catching it, the inhabi- 
 tants did not take kindly to the idea of having their loved ones separated 
 from them, and they did everything they could, in many cases, to baffle 
 the officers. Others went willingly, and in many instances gladly, for it 
 meant support for them and a certain release from work. 
 
 There are many pathetic tales told concerning the enforcement of the 
 law. On the island of Kauai a very beautiful Hawaiian girl was found to 
 be afflicted with the fearful scourge, and it was decided best to take her 
 to the leper colony. But this doomed maid had a lover, who stoutly
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 109 
 
 remonstrated against this conrse, and, in his desperation to save liis loved 
 one from such a fate, he fled with her to the fastness of the forest. Find- 
 ing themselves pursued by some officers, this couple ascended one of the 
 highest palis, and, locked in each other's arms, leaped to death on the rocks 
 below. Their mangled bodies were buried, in one grave. There is still 
 at large upon this island a leper man, on whose head is offered a large 
 bounty to him who can effect his capture. Defying those who have 
 hunted him, this hapless victim of an incurable malady has killed several 
 men who have attempted to 
 take him to Molokai. Those 
 who have seen him lately say 
 that ere long he will be obliged 
 to yield to that disease whose 
 power is greater and more ter- 
 rible than man's. 
 
 Another story is of a little 
 child, whose parents were be- 
 lieved to be in good health, but 
 who was pronovniced to have 
 the fatal disease. In this case 
 the officials could do no better 
 than to order that she be taken 
 to the leper colony. The dis- 
 tracted mother would not listen 
 to this, and she plead so piti- 
 fully that a respite of three 
 weeks was allowed, at the end 
 of which the little girl must be removed. Tliereupuu the niotlier prayed 
 that her darling Maunoa might die before the end of the time, and though 
 no one accused her of harming the child, she began to fail soon after, and 
 on the morning the officers came for her .she lay dead in her distracted 
 luotlier's arms. The little one was l)uried close to the parents' dnov. and 
 the mother watched the grave as tenderly as she had in life watched over 
 the child. It was not long before she discovered that she was afHicted 
 with the same malady. As long as she could she k(>pt her secret from 
 others, but the day finally caine when she was told tliat she nuist go to 
 
 AKAKA FALLS, IIILO. 510 FT. HIGH.
 
 170 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 Molokai. Threatened witli a separation from home and the httle grave 
 dearer to her than all else, she resisted stoutly, when the officers came to 
 carry out tlieir intentions. It was said that she burst a l)lood-vessel in the 
 frantic resistance ; but be it that, or grief and terror, she dropped dead on 
 the mound covering her child, and was buried beside her. 
 
 The rich sought to buy off the officials, and no doubt often did for a 
 time, and the poor sought concealment, and resorted to desperate means 
 rather than yield, so it was little wonder if the enforcement of tlie law 
 was not all that it should have been. 
 
 The example set by a learned and influential Hawaiian named Bill Rags- 
 dale did more than anything else to show the natives the good intentions 
 of the government, and caused many afterward to submit with a good 
 grace to the inevitable. Ragsdale was a lawyer, rich, and of great influ- 
 ence in public affairs, with a most flattering future, when he realised that 
 he was a leper. No one else had discovered it, and in his position he 
 might have evaded the law for several years. Instead of doing that, he 
 voluntarily gave himself up to the authorities, after having bade adieu to 
 friends and relatives, all of whom tried to persuade him from his course. 
 He had great influence among his race, though he was part white, and 
 when they witnessed his unselfish act it had a beneficial effect on others. 
 The name of Bill Ragsdale at once became a term of respect and endear- 
 ment. This man was for a time governor of Kalawao, and many of the 
 improvements for the comfort and the beauty of the colony are due to 
 him. 
 
 Another name loved and revered by the unfortunates of Molokai is 
 that of Father Damien, a native of Belgium, born in 1841, who, hearing 
 of the suffering and hopeless condition of the lepers, went to Kalawao in 
 1873, to devote the balance of his life to their well being. Every one be- 
 lieved then that leprosy was infectious, and he expected to ha^•e the dread 
 disease soon or late, but he Avent aliout his task with a calm resignation 
 as to duty. He not only ministered to their spiritual av elf are, but he 
 dressed their horrible wounds, amputated diseased parts, sat liy their 
 bedsides, and even helped to dig their graves, ever living in the terribly 
 tainted atmosphere. He lived among them ten years before he contracted 
 the disease, and he died in 1889, mourned by every person who had 
 known him.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 171 
 
 Lepers are not great sufferers as a rule, aud thej- meet their fate Avitli 
 an indifference which is melancholy. The average life at Kalawao is 
 four years. Women are less likely to have it than men, and it is swifter 
 in its results with children than with grown people. Sometimes tho.se not 
 afflicted are allowed to accomijan}^ friends there. Women have married 
 lept'r husbands, and children have been born of such unions that sliowed 
 no signs of the disease. Leprosy is not as contagious as it was at first 
 supposed, still it is not well 
 understood even after all the 
 investigation that has been 
 made. But under the pres- 
 ent enforcement of the law, 
 and the efficient work done 
 by the Board of Health, its 
 spread has been ]n-etty thor- 
 oughly checked, and but few 
 afflicted with it are now at 
 large. In time it is believed 
 that the last will be found 
 and the terrible scourtje 
 stamped out. 
 
 There are now at Kala- 
 wao eleven hundred cases, all 
 but fifty being Hawaiians. 
 Thirty-two of the balance be- 
 long to the Chinese race, and 
 the rest are whites, who were 
 
 mostly dissipated persons. It costs the government about a hundred 
 dollars each anntiallv to care for these charo;es, evervthing being done 
 that can be for their comfort and welfare. There are Protestant, Roman 
 Catholic, and Mormon churclies, a Young Men's Christian Association 
 Building, schools, reading-rooms and libraries, besides dwellings built by 
 government and wealthy inhabitants of the place. 
 
 With the improved methods and careful study given to the disease, the 
 white population of the islands have no fear of it, and the visitor might 
 travel the country over without seeing any evidence of it, until he found 
 
 LAVA BUTTRESS.
 
 172 
 
 THE FA II EAST. 
 
 it ill his way to go to Molokai's lonely north peninsula. Few of those who 
 ua\e visited this dark corner of- the Island Paradise have come away 
 without feeling they have been paid for their pains, and yet having no 
 desire to repeat the experience. 
 
 Molokai {Atiia Pali in the native tongue) means " Land of Precipices," 
 and no truer definition was ever given a name. The island is formed by 
 a chain of volcanic mountains forty miles in length by seven in width. 
 The lofty heights are broken by deep i-avines and gorges, down many of 
 which are swift-flowing streams. Still nearly a third of the entire area, 
 comprising the west end, is desolate of vegetation, and will remain so 
 until given a more plentiful supply of water. The larger portion of the 
 pojjulation live on a narrow strip of coast land along the southern shore ; 
 but this fertile land is too dry to afford many kinds of vegetation, so that 
 the people have to cultivate the uplands to get food. On the whole, aside 
 from its unpleasant reputation as the home of a leprous population, 
 though imported, it is the least promising of the seven Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 LAVA I.AKK.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PICTrHESgiK MAUI. 
 
 THE tourist, arriving at Honolulu and Avishing to visit the larger 
 islands and their principal points of interest, finds that he has the 
 choice of two routes, with their variations. One of these, after tak- 
 ing him along the lee side of Molokai and between that island and Lanai, 
 touches at Lahaina. Not only the capital and ])rinci|ial town of Maui, tiiis 
 place was once tlie metropolis of the islands, when kings hail ihcir palaces 
 and foreign consuls their courts here, when whale-ships filled its liarbour, 
 and its single wide street was thronged with the armed retainers of royalty, 
 and its broad, sandy beach alive with many races of people. The moun- 
 tains, with their bare, brown slopes, crowd down close to the sea here, so 
 close that the village is composed of but one street overhung with groves 
 
 of cocoanuts, tamarinds, oranges, and breadfruits. Lahaina has changed 
 
 173
 
 174 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 only, since those halcyon days of royalty and commerce, in a backward 
 course, and like Mount Eka, which long since lost its fiery vigour, it has 
 gone to sleep. But this slumber is now being broken by the sugar in- 
 dustry, which is rapidly giving a new life to the antiquated place, proving 
 over and again how the fickle hand of business guides the destiny of towns 
 as well as men. But the stop of the steamer is short here, and we leave 
 the old town in its dreams — 
 
 " Where the wave tumbles, 
 Where the reef rumbles, 
 Where the sea sweeps, 
 Uuder bending palm branches. 
 
 '• Wliere the hills smoulder, 
 
 Wher^ the plains smoke, 
 Where the peaks shoulder 
 
 The clouds like a yoke; 
 Where the dear isle 
 Has a charm to beguile, 
 As she lays in the lap 
 Of the sea that enfolds her." 
 
 Leaving Lahaina, the steamer coasts along the southern shore, soon 
 passing under the lee of the western highlands, presenting a landscape that 
 cannot be excelled by any other in the world, overtopped by Mount Eka 
 wrapped in its lava cloak, grim and silent, thence across the watery inlet 
 which nearly makes two of the island. Keeping close in to the shore of 
 East Maui, where the mountains protect the coast from the trade-winds, 
 the dreary little village of Ulupalakua is reached. Here those who wish 
 to make a trip to Haleakala, " The House of the Sun," leave the steamer. 
 Rising ten thousand feet into the air, and having a crater thirty miles 
 in circumference, this exhausted monster, with a pit 2,700 feet deep, 
 is almost capable of swallowing Vesuvius entire, while from its inte- 
 rior rise cones of scoriaj to heights which dwarf St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 The poetical Stoddard declared that a trip to its summit was " a horse- 
 back journey to heaven," while another, less jjleased with the result, 
 turns away, declaring that "it should be called the Tomb, and not the 
 House of the Sun, and that volcanoes have no business to be dead !" 
 
 Next leaving the rockv islet of Molikini to the southeast, and fartlier off
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 175 
 
 in the same direction Kahoolawe, the course is across Alalakeiki Channel, 
 where the trade-wind rushes as if tln-ongh a flume, to Uiiohi Point, the 
 northern extremity of tlie ishmd of Hawaii. Back of this port — mure 
 properly speaking roadstead — stretch extensive cane fields, through 
 which runs a line of railroad. 
 
 Coasting along this shore in a sontherl}^ course, this region of rich ver- 
 dure is soon exchanged for the barren, rainless land of Lee Hawaii. 
 Twenty miles of this passage, and the steamer enters the little Bay of 
 
 CIIASM oil NKI) AFTER COI.I.APSK OF LAVA ( liUST. 
 
 Kawaihe, which name has the very poetical definition of " torn water." 
 It is evening, and the southern moon, cliiiihing the distant mountains, 
 throws far and wide over the placid sea her soft, purple beams, while 
 Hualalai, a stark, brown dome against the sky, casts his ten thousand feet 
 of shadows over the checkered landscape. This volcano has shown no 
 signs of life since 1805, when it seemed to have spent its final fury. 
 Standing on an eminence overlooking the coast remains an evidence of 
 paganism in the last heiau built on the islands, done at the command of 
 Kamehameha I., in 1791. This structure, one of the best .specimens of its 
 kind, has walls a dozen feet thick at the base, ten feet high on the upper
 
 176 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 side and double tliat on the lower, — a rude parallelogram a hundred feet 
 wide and over two hundred feet in length. 
 
 The next anchorage is not found until historic Kailua, the ancient capi- 
 tal of the islands, standing by a l)ay of that name, is reached, when the 
 sun has replaced thd moon, and the mellow atmosphere of a Hawaiian 
 dawn makes clear the scene. Bordered by a rim of feathery palms and 
 set with an A-shaped cluster of cottages, this place presents an odd mixture 
 of bygone days and modern times. Here is another reminder of Kame- 
 
 hameha the Great, — an old 
 fort-like building made of mud 
 and lava. Once surrounded by 
 hideous idols, tabu staffs, and 
 grotesque wooden images, in- 
 tended to awe the ignorant 
 masses, it was here the old 
 religion had its headquarters, 
 and here the tabus were first 
 broken by his son, Liholiho, 
 upon whom the influence of 
 women was stronger than 
 priestly power. The gods set 
 at defiance, the destruction of 
 the idols and temples followed, 
 amid the consternation of the 
 peoi)le. In memory of the 
 wild deeds done within its 
 sacred precinct, the ruins are 
 known as the "Place of Ghosts," where no one with ever so slight a linger- 
 ing of the old faith sets foot after nightfall. In later years Kalakaua had 
 his country residence here, the royal mansion being now the property of 
 the dowager queen Kapiolani. A presentation in more ways than one of 
 former days, the walls of this spacious house have echoed to the semi-bar- 
 barous merriment of the profligate king's noted laaiis and hulas, witnessed 
 by the nolulity seated in the rows of famous red chairs. In marked juxta- 
 position to this aljode of a monarch who was not unwilling to see the 
 ancient customs revived, stands the oldest Christian church on the islands. 
 
 -ILVEi; I'L.\NT.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 177 
 
 Built of lava blocks, some of which had been hewn by one of the ancient 
 kings of Hawaii as the corner-stones of a pagan temple, this house of mod- 
 ern worship is bare and desolate enough to have suited the most austere of 
 Puritan worshippers. It requires no grievous strain of the imagination to 
 transport one back to the scenes of the early missionaries and their odd 
 congregation of uncivilised listeners who had but a faint inkling of the 
 new creed they professed to accept. The church is now under charge of a 
 native pastor. But it is not so 
 much as a relis-ious seat that 
 Kailua is noted to-day. The 
 coffee industry is the prevail- 
 ing element, and a large coffee 
 mill is seen, the most noticeable 
 of modern buildings. Terms of 
 the Circuit Court are held here. 
 
 Kealakekua Bay, famous for 
 its associations with tlie name 
 of Captain Cook, is the best 
 anchorage on the western and 
 southern coasts. A steep pali, 
 honeycombed witli the burial 
 caverns of the Hawaiians, a 
 rude Polyne.sian catacomb, 
 forms the background of the 
 scene here. In plain sight of 
 the shore is the white shaft 
 which marks the place where 
 the Great Navigator paid the 
 
 price of his perfidy to the native race, and a quarter of a mile distant are 
 the ruins of the heiau of Kiki Au. where he received the homatre due a 
 god. 
 
 2\bove the narrow coast rim are great coffee plantations, which get 
 their supplies largely at Napaupau, across the bay from Kealakekua. 
 A little lower down the coast is another ancient place of modern in- 
 terest, Honaunau. tlic old city of refuge. It was here that criminals 
 and fugitives from any and every cau.se fled for safety in the trouble- 
 
 TAKO PLANT.
 
 178 THE FAll EAST. 
 
 isoiiie daA's of yore. Hawaii had two of tliese places, planned very 
 much as those of the Hebrew Scripture. The other was on the wind- 
 ward side of the island, at famous Waipio, the one-time seat of royal 
 dynasty, that of the renowned Kihi line of kmgs. The.se cities of ref- 
 vige were walled towns and the pagan idea of a court of justice. Idols 
 were set around the enclosure and guards stationed round about, l)ut 
 Avho ever was fortunate enough to gain their shelter was safe. After a 
 certain time passed within, he was supjiosed to be innocent of any crime, 
 and given his liberty. There was an old saying that " all roads led to 
 Honaunau," which fact is pretty well attested to-day by the many paths 
 and roads winding out into the country above. 
 
 Still farther south, defying with its solid front several miles in breadth 
 the stormy sea, stands Lepeampa Rock. This hard lava stone bed extends 
 back from the shore for nearly a mile before it becomes invested with 
 a soil of sufficient depth to bear the ohia, the pioneer of Hawaiian vegeta- 
 tion. Two miles from the seaside are forests of large trees, made impene- 
 tral)le by an undergrowth of reeking vines and towering ferns, the 
 density of the growth showing where the mountains have wrung more 
 than an equal share of the moisture from the clouds. 
 
 The volcano, always an oljjective point to the tourist, can be reached by 
 a road at Honuapo, on the southeastern coast, and reached after the mari- 
 ner has doubled the Cape Horn of Hawaii, Ka lae, and made a long 
 stretch of coast exposed to winds and high swells. From thence to 
 Hilo, the general destination of all steamers, the shore is precipitous, 
 and above tliat city it is even wilder, but favoured with a generous 
 foliage, which always exists in the tropics where rain falls plentifully. 
 
 So it is with Hawaii wherever one turns his footsteps, a l)lending of 
 fertile lands and barren wastes, the first clothed with a verdure so rank 
 and dense as to be impassable in its original state, and the other lava beds 
 requiring the fertilisation of the atmosphere of centuries to come before 
 producing a representative covering of Hawaiian vegetation. 
 
 The second route from Honolulu to Hilo takes the traveller to the wind- 
 ward of Maui and Hawaii, the picturesque side of the islands. East and 
 West Maui are separated by a wide, arid plain, where even the hai-dy ku- 
 kui hesitates to place foot. But on either side of this broad gateway of 
 the mountains the scene swiftly changes to unsurpassed grandeur and sub-
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 170 
 
 limitv. In the niidst of these, embowered in traiUns; vines and gorgeous 
 lantanas, are the chistering roofs of the sugar planters, scattered far and 
 wide, here and tliere the l^lack stack of some mill, and on the line of the 
 railroad the hamlet of houses constituting the nucleus of civilisation. In 
 this region is the Spreckels plantation, the largest in the world. In this 
 scene is Kahului, an important port for the importations of this part of the 
 island, which smacks so strongly of the Orient that the visitor soon comes 
 to think that he is in the homeland of the Chinese and Japanese. 
 
 ROOM IN VOLCANO HOUSE. 
 
 Better than this iiicture is that of Wailiiku, — at its back, the flowering 
 palis ; at its feet, the Pacific combing the long beach with anything Init the 
 placidity of its name, laying, with eternal perseverance, roll after roll of 
 snowy fleece on the sandy shore ; beside it, the river from wliicii it gets its 
 name, losing hei-e the impetuosity of its early course as old age loses 
 its fiery zeal of youth on nearing its earthly goal beyond ; that matchless 
 corridor of nature filled with the melody of waterfalls and the perfume of 
 orange-flowers, lao Valley ; above, the gray clouds which give to this land- 
 scape its vesture of fadeless beauty, floating dreamily in the cerulean space.
 
 180 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 This Mauian valley, which no tourist fails to visit, has been compared 
 to the Yosemite of California. This is unjust to both. There can be no 
 e(iuitable comparison in the masterpieces of nature. The entrance to the 
 laoan storehouse of wonders is through a long, narrow, massive gateway, 
 Avhose perpendicular walls finally reach a height of two thousand feet, 
 the roughness of their masonry concealed by a lacework of dark green 
 foliao'e sparkling with silvery waterfalls flashing from turret and cornice. 
 At last the passage broadens into a court of such lonely grandeur and 
 
 majesty of architecture tliat the 
 intruder instinctively f^hriuks 
 back as if suddenly brought 
 into the presence of the Om- 
 nipotent Judge. The floor, 
 laid in lava blocks, is broken 
 on the one hand by a deep 
 ravine, through which flow the 
 sullen " Waters of Destruction," 
 while on the other, amid a set- 
 ting of splintered cliffs, stands 
 that laoan sphinx, the tower- 
 ing Needle, which far overtops 
 Cleopatra's famous obelisk. 
 
 The early kings of Maui 
 showed their apt appreciation 
 of matters earthly and immor- 
 tal, when they selected this as 
 their tomb. Many of the re- 
 mains of kings and chiefs have l)eeu found, grim links connecting 
 barljarism to civilisation. A veritable burial-ground this vast natural 
 coliseum became when the faithful followers of Kahekili the Thunderer 
 sacrificed their lives on these rocks rather than yield to Kamehameha 
 the Conqueror. Not until the last soldier had fallen did the battle end, 
 and the waters of the Wailuku, breaking through their human dam, 
 flowed crimson to the sea. Nowhere in history is there a more vivid 
 association of the tragic and the sublime. 
 
 But lao Valley is as famous for its prodigal display of vegetation 
 
 VOLCANO HOUSE.
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 181 
 
 as it is for its traditions of human tragedy and natural sublimity. Every- 
 where, even to its most rugged battlements, are draperies of clinging 
 foliage and festoons of graceful creepers, while miniature forests of 
 guavas, overtopped Ij}- breadfruit-trees, and bordered by rose fringes, 
 meet the eye. If there is one thing aljove all else in wliieh it excels, 
 
 THK PALI. 
 
 it is in its disphiy of ferns, no kind or species of which seem to be 
 wanting in this gorgeous wealth of flowers and foliage. In no part 
 of the Hawaiian Islands, famous for their ferns, are so many kinds found 
 as are growing here. Who enters here becomes fern-wild. In the 
 words of one of these admirers : " The tourist is pretty sure to forget 
 everything else in Hawaii. In vain the great Pacific rolls before him
 
 182 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 fi'dui pole to pole; he spies a fern in the cranny of the rock, and have 
 it he must. Is he walking the high bridge which spans the deep-flowing 
 Wailuku at Hilo (another river on the larger island by this same name), 
 anil are the deepening shades of evening lighting up the summit fires 
 of Mauna Loa, he is lost to the rare scene if he but thinks he sees a 
 new fern growing out of the trunk of the old breadfruit-tree. All 
 through the lively woods of Puna, or along the forest path to Kilauea, his 
 eyes are searching the undergrowth for his peculiar prey. And even 
 as he comes home fi'om lao the terrible, the beautiful, the only, for surely 
 the world has no other valley like it, his thoughts are busier with the 
 pressed volume of leaves which he hugs to his side, than with the majesty 
 and wonder of the scenery he has been contemplating." Still, when this 
 iiuiocent bewitchery has flown, when the ferns have crumbled to dust, 
 the mind will cherish the memory of that great natural wonder of Maui, 
 its legends and associations of another day and another people. 
 
 CKAIKl! 1>F KII.ArEA.
 
 CHAPTER XVir. 
 
 THE ISLAND BUILDER. 
 
 WINDWARD Hawaii has less of historic interest than the lee 
 side of the island ; but it is far richer in its great abundance of 
 natural wealth, which is accounted for by tlie fact that here 
 there is plenty of rain, while on the opposite side of the mountains the 
 atmosphere is dry. The coun- 
 try is broken and rugged, the 
 coast line often being long 
 ridges of rock pushing down to 
 the waters edge, rising some- 
 times to the height of two or 
 three hundred feet. 
 
 Tlie onh' harbour on the en- 
 tire northeast sweep of coast is 
 Hilo Bay, or Byron Bay. as it 
 is sometimes called, for the 
 commander of the English frig- 
 ate Blonde, which it will be re- 
 membered brought home the 
 remains of Kumehameha II. 
 and his queen, both of whom 
 died while on a visit to Eng- 
 land. The natives named 
 the place Waiakea, meaning 
 "broad water," and on the 
 south shore, sei)arated from 
 
 the city of Hilo by a crescent-shaped beach, on which the breaking 
 surf "'looks like frosted silver," is a little vijlage by that name. The 
 bay is seven miles wide and three miles deep, a submerged coral reef run- 
 ning from Cocoanut Island on the south to within half a mile of the north 
 
 183 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^fc^t''..'<->-^B^^^B 
 
 r. 
 
 
 ^r ' 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 
 » ■ 1 
 
 . , ^r"}:^'. 
 
 i 
 
 PRINCESS KAIULANI.
 
 184 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 side of the harbour, leaving a passage of that width for the entrance of 
 vessels. Witli this protecting arm, the ships riding at anchor here are 
 still exposed to the northeast trade-wind. 
 
 On the west shore of the harbour, on an inclined plane, amid extensive 
 groves of cocoanuts, bananas, plantains, and breadfruits, with large sugar 
 plantations in the background, stands Hilo, " the ambitious city." It 
 has been aptly said that what Honolulu aspires to be Hilo is. It is also 
 
 the common expression that 
 it rains every day in Hilo. 
 If an occasional day is missed 
 it is certain that this locality 
 has the largest amount of 
 rainfall of any part of the 
 islands, and it is due to this 
 fact that the coiuitry in this 
 vicinity is remarkable for 
 its verdure, — a vegetation 
 which is always green. 
 
 The appearance of the 
 town is less American than 
 at Honolulu, the architecture 
 of the buildings being a sort 
 of cross of European and 
 Oriental designs. But there 
 is nothing sleepy about the 
 place, and the American ele- 
 ment predominates, though 
 Japanese and Chinese have 
 each got a good hold. It 
 has its share of public buildings, its churches, its schoolhouses, and the 
 largest public library on the islands. 
 
 At Hilo we are on historic ground, and its meles take us back into the-, 
 past many generations beyond those of Honolulu. It was here the Con- 
 queror had one of his early battles in laying the foundation for his con- 
 quest, while many legends of the curious and mysterious beings that 
 peopled the superstitious minds of the Hawaiians still cling to the 
 
 CRATKK w \1
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 185 
 
 romantic dales, waterfalls, palis, and deep-wooded mountainsides. Only 
 a mile from the town is Rainbow Falls, whose waters are so delicately 
 coloured by the sun's rays that the natives believed a fairy lived in tlie 
 waters clothed in the variegated hues of the rainbow. 
 
 Above the chain of sugar plantations flanking Hilo, and extending up 
 and down the coast for sixty 
 miles, is a wider band of open 
 country, covered with a cloak 
 of rank grass ; still above this 
 is a yet broader belt of forest, 
 whose foliage presents a grad- 
 ual but marked change from 
 the verdure of the tropics to 
 the polar clime, until, far above, 
 the snowy crest of Mauna Kea 
 stands boldly out against the 
 sky. 
 
 Hawaii has the loftiest and 
 niiiJ-htiest mountains of an^' 
 islands in tlie world. Con- 
 sidered from their base at the 
 bottom of the Pacific, the two 
 giants, Mauna Kea and Mauna 
 Loa, lift their volcanic heads 
 thirty thousand feet into the 
 air, — almost six miles! The 
 first is thirteen thousand and 
 nine hundred feet above the 
 surface of the sea, while its 
 
 mate is less than two hundred feet its inferior in height, and more than 
 its equal in every other respect. 
 
 At Hilo we begin to get a vivid idea of the greatest of island wonders, 
 the volcanoes. The beauties and picturesque features of the flora and 
 forests, the palis and valleys, the waterfalls and coral shores, are over- 
 shadowed by the volcanic cones whose fires have illumined land and sea for 
 ages beyond the computation of man. Its summit crater, Mokuaweoweo, 
 
 KAIXllOW KAI.I.S. IIII.O.
 
 186 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 wrapped in its trailing vestment of clouds, is a grand spectacle of volcanic 
 majesty. 
 
 Though sleeping now, the fires of this volcano are only banked, and at 
 what moment they may break forth is unknown. Several eruptions, some 
 of which cost many lives and great loss of property, have occurred during 
 the present century. In 1832 there was an overflow lasting four weeks, 
 and again in 1843 an eruption took place, when the lava flowed for a dis- 
 tance of twenty-five miles. Other eruptions followed, one of which, after 
 sending out its stream of lava for a mile, was suddenly checked, the 
 molten river disappeared into the earth, and that seemed to be the last of 
 it. But fuur (hiys later another sliock shook the island to every extremity, 
 
 L.WA FLOW. 
 
 and the lava stream burst through the earth in the forest of northeastern 
 Puna, rushing down to the sea with terrific power, overwhelming many 
 people and destroying the country as far as it reached. In the Puna 
 district are yet to be seen strange reminders of the OA'erflows in the shape 
 of lava-tree forests. The molten lava having covered the trees, often 
 to a height of twenty feet, congealed before the encased wood burned, 
 and now stands hollow skeletons of the greenwood hundreds of years 
 old. 
 
 In 1859 an immense flow rushed down between Mauna Kea and 
 Hualalai, reaching the sea at Wainanalii, a distance of thirty-three miles, 
 in eight days. The worst eruption of which there is written record took 
 place in 1868. This time severe earthquakes rocked the whole island like 
 a cradle, and the southeast coast of Puna sank several feet. A foimtain
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 187 
 
 of lava was thrown upward a tliousand feet, which abruptl}- collapsed, 
 and the mountain dome appeared clear against the sk^-. Five days later, 
 on April 2d, a molten river l)urst through a fissure in the earth just south 
 of Hilo with a terrific force and volume. It liad travelled over twenty 
 miles underground before finding this vent, and now four huge fountains 
 seethed and tossed hissing lava and rocks tons in weight high into the air. 
 From this a furious stream of red lava — a river of fire from two to eight 
 hundred feet in width and twenty feet deep — swe])t down to the sea at 
 
 I>KS(EXT AT LAVA I.AKK. KILATEA. 
 
 a rate of from fifteen to twenty miles an hour. Everything in its pathway 
 was destroyed, and one of the fairest pastoral regions of the island trans- 
 formed into a tract of barren earth. The entire southeastern coast sank 
 from four to six feet, desti'oying several villages and their inhabitants. 
 The terrified people in the vicinity fled .into Hilo, and consternation 
 everywhere reigned. 
 
 The horrors of this eruption were repeated in 1881, the outburst having 
 begun November 5th the preceding year. Portions of the shore sank this 
 time, while others were lifted up ; tidal waves fifty feet in height swept
 
 188 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 the coast at the engulfed places, and the people left the island as fast as 
 they could find means. Three streams of lava flowed from the sunnnit 
 of Mauna Loa, one of them coming within three-fourths of a mile of Hilo. 
 The city seemed doomed, and the vessels for Honohdu were crowdetl witli 
 the fugitives. 
 
 At this critical period an instance occurred which showed how deeply 
 were still fixed the roots of the old superstition. Amid the digging of 
 trenches, building of walls to protect the town, and the making of prayers 
 for the deliverance of the people, a surviving sister of the Kamehamehas 
 Fourth and Fifth, at the time living in Honolulu, declared that she coidd 
 check the wrath of the goddess of the volcano. " I will save the fish-ponds 
 of Hilo," she said. " Pele will not refuse to listen to the prayers of a 
 Kamehameha.'" She went to the threatened town, and, surrounded by 
 a large and anxious crowd of spectators, caused to be built an altar in the 
 pathway of the approaching stream. Here she made her appeals to the 
 goddess Pele, offered her sacrifices to the lava, and then returned to her 
 home. As if in answer to her commands, the fiery river ceased its 
 advance at once, and its congealed flood stands to-day as a wall to the 
 Hawaiian belief in the power of the gods disowned more than half a cen- 
 tury before. 
 
 Other examples of the \vork of Mauna Loa, though less striking than 
 these mentioned, are recorded, while tradition kindles with cataracts of 
 leaping fire and clouds of crimson smoke and hissing steam. There were 
 years which had no days clear from the smoke of underground furnaces nor 
 nights that were not lurid with flames. The Hawaiian meles tell of rivers 
 of fire bursting out of the hot earth and flinging its liquid masses over 
 a pali a thousand feet, in height to fall hissing and seething into the ocean. 
 A pillar of fire six hundred feet in circumference once spouted from the 
 crest of Mauna Loa to a distance of over a thousand feet, which lasted for 
 twenty days, without a night, so brilliant was the scene for the distance 
 of nearly a hundred miles ! As a monument of this grand display a cone 
 a mile in circumference was builded on its summit. Thus has been builded 
 by this master workman an island, layer on layer, hill on hill, from the 
 seacoast to the volcanic crest, the melting, forging, welding, casting out 
 of the molten matter by the ever-living fires of the furnaces within the 
 crater, while the surcharged products have been fertilised by sun and Avind,
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 189 
 
 heat and moisture, until the naked and deformed rock has been clothed 
 in a tropical verdure. 
 
 For an active example of the work of this mighty island builder we 
 have only to turn to that lateral orifice of Mauna Loa, Kilauea. With tlie 
 exceptions of the brief intervals when an overflow or l:)reaking out was 
 taking place on the main mountain, this crater has kept up a continual 
 exhibition of its internal forces. For a period antedathig the known his- 
 
 
 w* 
 
 i^m 
 
 BAKKINO SANDS. 
 
 tory of the islands this volcano has been Ijuilding within, laying its founda- 
 tions deep down in the sea, thickening and strengthening its walls, until 
 to-day this " House of Fire," Halemaumau, holds within its compass the 
 greatest evidence of volcanic energy in the AV(_)r]d. Before that it was 
 different. Barrier after barrier nuist liave been broken down, and deluge 
 after deluge of the fiery floods flung out upon the surroundings, until the 
 walls had been lifted four thousand feet above the sea, its present height. 
 Now, when the interior has again been filled with its molten mass, and the 
 surging waves and breakei-s of the " burning lake " dasli over the rim of 
 the cone, or become strono; enoui^h to break down its wall, nujain will the
 
 100 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 surroundiug country be overlaid Avitli lava deposits, each layer adding so 
 much to the j^resent heiglit of the mighty shell. That thiy stage is surely 
 coming is foretold b}- the gradual rise of the successive exhibits of the 
 " rock-consuming forces." 
 
 The only overflow of Kilauea, so far as is known, took place in 1789, 
 while the army of Keoua was on its march from Hilu to meet Kamehameha 
 at Kan in a decisive battle for the supremacy of the island. The course 
 taken by this body of warriors led near to the crater, which had been silent 
 
 KAMEHAMEHA SCHDOL. 
 
 longer than any of their priests knew, and as they drew near by night the 
 darkness was suddenly illumed with dazzling sheets of flame, and such a 
 storm of cinders and rocks fell about the natives that they fled for their 
 lives. Rallied by their chief in the valley below, for two days they were 
 witnesses of a scene which carried terror to the stoutest hearts. All the 
 time deep peal upon peal of thunder rolled over their heads, while clouds 
 so black they darkened the sun at midday rose from the crater, lighted 
 at intervals by flashes of lightning so vivid that they were compelled to 
 close their eyes. At last they were urged to resume their march, but
 
 HAWAII. 
 
 191 
 
 as they were passing the volcano, such a shower of lava, sand, and rocks 
 was flung upon them that the majority were overwhelmed, tlie survivors 
 fleeing in dismay. This was believed by the natives to be a direct interpo- 
 sition on the part of Queen Pele in behalf of Kamehameha. 
 
 A public highway leads from Hilo to the volcano twenty miles distant 
 
 NKW Kl>AI> TO TIIK PALI. 
 
 from that town, and the sightseer who has climbed the steady ascent from 
 the sea, after passing through a typical Hawaiian forest and green fields, 
 finds himself on the very brink of the crater without having received any 
 warning of his approach to the "regions infernal." If lie had come from 
 Kau, on the other side, the only difference would have been an exchange
 
 192 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 of forest for desert, of the green of the growing crops for the brown of the 
 lava fields. If he has missed the anticipated trembling of the earth, the 
 deep, sullen roar of the Plutonian hosts imprisoned here, the effect is 
 the more impressive as he stands suddenly on the threshold of this " House 
 of Fire," with walls seamed and twisted by earthquakes, and floor laid in 
 blocks of melted stone. With feeling akin to terror he gazes spellbound 
 on the upheavals of lurid fountains sending their spiral columns high into 
 the air, of huge boulders tossed on the crests of crimson waves ; on tides 
 of liquid flames surging against the sides of this burning lake ; on ten 
 thousand torches lighted by no human hand, fading and rekindling with 
 startling rapidity ; on the areas of lioiling lava, now rising on the swelling 
 flood, now sinking deep into the bottomless regions from whence came all 
 this molten mass, — on all this and more that cannot be described, until he 
 feels, as he never has before, the power and the presence of the infinite 
 builder of the world. Before this sight all else on earth pales into insig- 
 nificance and is forgotten. 
 
 As this is written, report comes that Mauna Loa is again in convulsion, 
 that Hilo is once more threatened, and the people are seeking safety in 
 flight. Shocks of earthquake shook the island for twenty-five miles, and 
 were felt in Honolulu. There are two streams of lava flowing, one toward 
 Kau, and the other in the direction of Hilo. The damage to property has 
 already been considerable. So it will be until the volcanic forces which 
 have been building the islands shall be spent, and Hawaii, like her sister 
 islands, be emancipated from its thraldom of fire. Then, indeed, with its 
 happy people, will it be the Paradise of the Pacific.
 
 I
 
 ^ 
 
 OD 
 
 t=1 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■ 3 
 
 7/2 
 
 4 ^ 
 
 « 
 
 ig 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 c
 
 LANDSCAPE ON EAST SIDE OF MINDANAO. 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE PEARLS OF THE ORIENT. 
 
 MANY geologists believe that a vast continent, rivalling in area any 
 now existing, once extended from New Zealand on tlits south to 
 the Mariana (Ladrones) and Hawaiian Islands on the north; from 
 the most eastern of the Polynesian Islands to the China and Sulu Seas on 
 the west. According to this theory, the islands of the South Sea, includ- 
 ing the extensive Archijielago of the Philippines, are the uplifted moun- 
 tain peaks and highlands of the submerged hemisjihere. Granting the 
 plausibility of this assertion, the evidence remains that a large percentage 
 
 19.3
 
 194 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 of these islands ;ire of coral or volcanic formation. Those under consider- 
 ation belong largely to the latter class. 
 
 So little is actually known of the entire Pacific coast, that only an 
 approximate estimate can he gi\en of the size and situation of the 
 Philippine Islands, variously supposed to number from six to twelve 
 hundred. A conservative calculation places the land area at a little less 
 than 115,000 square miles, equal to the State of Arizona, or nearly the 
 same as the combined areas of the six New England States and New 
 York. This collection of fragmentary lands, lying to the southeast of 
 
 m^*i' 
 
 ^^ ;^«% «-SffV, 
 
 
 .MAIL STATIO.N ON BAY OF I'LCGAX. 
 
 Asia, extends froni 4° 45" to 20° 38" iiurtli latitude, a distance of over 
 a thousand miles; ami fmui 117' to 126° east longitude, or six hun- 
 dred miles east and west. 
 
 Tlie entire surface of the numerous islands is broken, and the coast- 
 line irregular, the seas cutting in and making frequent bays, gulfs, 
 i.sthmuses and peninsulas. The only plains are to be found along the 
 rivers near their mouths, except the intervales between the mountains, 
 which are inclined to trend north and south. These lowlands are rich 
 with the alluvial deposits of ages. Between the islands are long stretches 
 of canals and passages, though not many of them are navigal)le. Owing
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 195 
 
 to the existence of volcanic fires and the occasional overfloAV of hot water 
 from tlio boilers oi these momitain furnaces, coral growth is uncommon, 
 although nearly all of the other islands in the South Pacific abound in 
 its formation. 
 
 The principal islands are twelve in number, in size and situation as 
 follows, according to the Spanish official returns : Luzon, the most north- 
 erl}', and containing the capital of the Archipelago, Manila, having an 
 area of 41,000 square miles, equal to the State of Ohio ; Mindanao, the 
 most southerly, with an extent of 37,500 miles, a trifle larger than the 
 State of Indiana ; Samar, on the central east, 5,300 miles in area ; 
 
 f.n. •. i- 
 
 VOLCANO OF APO. 
 
 Panay, near the centre of the group, 4,600 miles ; Palawan (Paragua), 
 a long strip on the southwest, 4,100 miles ; Mindoro, on the central 
 Avest, 4,050 miles ; Leyte, 3,090 miles ; Xegros, 2,300 miles ; Cebu, 
 1,650, Masbate, 1,318, Bohol, 925, Cantanduanes, 450 square miles each. 
 The two first named are probabl}- as large as all the others combined. 
 
 Everywhere is seen the cNidence of the volcanic formation of the 
 islands, and a continual cliang(> in the topography of some of them is 
 yet going on with surprising rapidity. Open water ncnv exists where 
 a few years since were inhabited islands. On the other hand, habitable 
 lands now rise above the surface of the sea where not long aa;o the 
 brown-skiimed boatman plied his slight craft along an uninterrupted 
 course. Many of the islands, taking Cebu for an example, wear yet
 
 196 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 their caps of limestone, indispiit;ible proof of their Inrth in the sea. 
 On others are the cones of extinct volcanoes, lava beds, and the 
 boiling geysers, living reminders of those days when the ocean for 
 thousands of miles was lighted l)y these internal furnaces. Nor are 
 all of the volcanoes burned out, as witness that giant Apo on the 
 island of Mindanao, witli an estimated height of over ten thousand 
 feet ; on Negros the Canloon, measuring over eight thousand feet, while 
 the active volcano, Mayon, on Luzon, is the grandest specimen, rising 
 
 VOI.CAXO OF MAYON, LUZON. 
 
 to a summit of eio-ht thousand and two hundred feet. The latter has 
 a perfect cone in c-onstant activity, its last eruption having taken place 
 in 1888. The premium of damage done within the history of man, 
 however, belongs to Taal, which lies in the midst of a fresh-water lake, 
 thirty-four miles south of Manila, though sixty as it is reached by 
 travel. This famous volcano has been active from time immemorial, 
 and its history is as closely associated with the island as Vesuvius is 
 with the fortunes of Naples. During the eighteenth century no less 
 than five noteworthy eruptions occurred, the most startling of them
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 197 
 
 being in 1754, when the town of Taiil wa.s entirely destroyed, and 
 several other places suffered seriously. Property fifteen miles away 
 was laid in ruins, and flying cinders fell in Manila. The outbreak 
 lasted for eight days, which were as dark as midnia-ht, so that the 
 inhabitants of the distant capital dined at midday with lighted lamp, 
 and plodded blindly along the streets amazed and terrified, believing 
 that the end of the world had come. The smell of sulphur and de- 
 caying debris lasted for six months, when such a malignant fever followed 
 as to carry off half of the inhabitants of the province. The road from 
 TaJil to Balayan was impassable on account of the lava, and the town 
 which had been the capital was destroyed with all the government 
 buildings. Batangas, on the coast, then became the centre of govern- 
 
 LOOKING UP PASIG lilVEU AT I'KETIL .lUST ABDVK MANILA. 
 
 ment. The eruption continued for six months and seventeen days. 
 At its last explosion this volcano blew off its head, and now stands 
 less than nine hundred feet in height, the lowest active volcano in the 
 world. 
 
 The Palawan group on the southwest is free from volcanic signs and 
 from earthquakes. 
 
 Besides the volcanic cones and ]ieaks, there are many moimtains, some 
 of respectable height, among them being Mt. Halcon, on the island of 
 Mindoro, 8,9()() feet ; San Cristobal, Luzon, 7,400 feet ; Isarog, Luzon, 
 6,424 feet; Giting Giting, Sibuyan, 6,642 feet; Banajao, Luzon, 7,333 feet. 
 The moimtains of this class are generally covered with magnificent 
 forests of stately trees, set off with the rich foliage of the tropics and 
 the bright-coloured flora of a sunny clime. Exceptions to this are the
 
 198 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 bare crowns of Mt. Halcon and Gitini;- Giting, the two like grim giants 
 standing, amid broad vistas of tropical country, teeming with the 
 prodigal gifts of a nature which knows no bounds to its rare bounties, 
 with uncovered heads. Like many of the other islands of the South Seas, 
 it would seem as if the dispenser of earth's gifts let slip here the string 
 from his horn of plenty to make this a modern Eden. 
 
 Rivers and small streams are numerous throughout the islands, many 
 of the larger being navigable. Among these are the Rio Pasig, which 
 has its source in the Bay Lagoon, and after flowing nineteen miles dis- 
 
 ^.vmE VILLACIK, ISI.ANIi OK XK(;Hi/S. 
 
 charges its water into Manila Bay. Tlie largest, tlie Rio Grande de Ca- 
 gayan, rising in the mountains of Eastern Luzon, flows nearly the length 
 of the island, or two hundred miles, and falls into the China Sea. It 
 annually overflows its banks, and along its course, as well as that of the 
 Pasig, are found some of the richest tobacco districts in the islands. The 
 Rio de Grande de la I'ampanga is another noticeable stream, threading 
 great tracts of forests, extensive fields of rice and plantations of sugar- 
 cane, thrifty villages and towns, in the fertile and beautiful valley which 
 gives it its name, and after a pleasure trip of thirty-eight miles enters 
 Manila Bay by twenty creeks. The Rio Augusan, longer than any of 
 them, cuts Mindanao Island almost in twain, thougli navigable for less
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 199 
 
 than four miles. The Abra, I'ising in the slopes opposite to the Agno 
 Grande, after a race of nearly ninety miles over the sand-bars of Butao, 
 Nioig, and Dile, surrenders its floods to the China Sea. There are many 
 others more or less known. 
 
 There are several hundreds of islands in the Archipelago covered with 
 thousands of square miles of tropical forests, abundant with valuable 
 woods, such as cedar, ebony, ironwood, mahogany, logwood, sapan-wood, 
 gum-trees, and fifty other kinds of woods unknown in America. In 
 certain localities gutta-percha is found, while in others is the cocos 
 
 BAMBOO BRIDGE, ILOILO. 
 
 nucifcra, every part of which, including trunk, branches, leaves, fruit, 
 shell, and luisk, has a value. Bamboo and areca palm are connnon and 
 of great utility. The Ji(utave and malave are two woods prized for tlieir 
 properties of resisting the action of water for centuries. 
 
 The most attractive and, next to the cocoauut-palm, most useful tree 
 is the bamboo, growing on the ])lains, along the banks of rivers, under 
 the shadows of boundless forests, around the homes of the natives, in 
 fact everywhere except in marshes and on the hills. With light, feathery 
 crests that sway grai-efully in the slightest breeze, the more majestic 
 rising to the very dignified height of fifty feet, they give a matchless
 
 200 
 
 THE FAK EAST. 
 
 charm to the forest scene. Their slender trunks set in joints, each 
 section strengthened by an inside we)j, present an odd array of forest 
 pillars as seen in a collection of any size. Besides these there are many 
 smaller vai'ieties, which the natives cultivate for the young shoots that 
 always command a good price in the market. Bamboo is a great build- 
 ing material in the construction of huts, houses, and e^'en churches, and 
 from it are made the mats, chairs, baskets, vessels for holding liquors, 
 measures for grain, in short, every kind of household utensil needed, 
 organs and musical instruments in general, while outside it is made into 
 carts to move merchandise, rafts to float on the rivers, palings for carrying 
 
 pules, blow-pipes 
 for furnaces, hats 
 to lie worn on the 
 head of its in- 
 genious woi'ker, 
 until it seems to 
 be in everything 
 small and great, 
 the most valuable 
 of all in liuilding 
 bridges hundreds 
 of feet in lengtli 
 and so strong tliat 
 a drove of buffa- 
 loes can pass safely over it. The leaves are eaten by liorses and cattle, 
 and its tender sliuots Ijy man. In a certain variety of the cane is found 
 a stone which the native believes is a panacea for many evils of the flesh. 
 In another kind is a sticky substance good for inflammation of the eyes, 
 which is very prevalent under the rays of the torrid sun. 
 
 If not applied to as many uses as tlie bamboo, the cocoanut-palm is 
 of Q-reater value, it beinij; the leadina; source of income to the native 
 inhabitants. Plantations of these trees are found scattered all over the. 
 Archipelago. Tlie fruit is always in denrand for the foreign market, and, 
 as with the bamboo, every part of the tree is utilised. From its smooth 
 body the native conistructs the framework of his dwelling, covers it with 
 its leaves, and furnishes it with cliairs. divans, and tables made from its 
 
 ( (iN^ I iM c [ lox OF A rniLU'i'ixo house.
 
 THE PIIIIJPriNES. 
 
 201 
 
 wood. The mats upon whieli he sleeps, the brnslies that he uses, are made 
 from its fibres. From its nuts he gets his meat, and a drink called out of 
 courtes}- milk, wliieh Ijecomes a good vinegar if left to become acid, while 
 from the. shells of these lie carves his household utensils. From its sap 
 he obtains an oil which is indispensable at home and in great demand 
 abroad. In the temperate climate it becomes a solid, and is converted 
 into soap and candles. On the islands it remains in a thinner state, and 
 is nsed for lighting his home, cooking his food, and is an excellent lubri- 
 cating substance for machinery. In that land of perpetual fear of an 
 outbreak from an earthquake, the matter of light is of nu small impor- 
 tance. In every 
 hut and hon.se a 
 small vessel is 
 partially filled 
 with water, on 
 which a quantity 
 of cocoannt oil 
 is poured, and a 
 wick floating on 
 top is lighted and 
 kept burning 
 from twilight 
 until dawn, a 
 tiny firefly lamp, 
 
 but very useful at the least warning of danger. Besides all this, ob- 
 taining from its flowering stalk a delicious beverage he calls tuha, and 
 clothing his body from raiment made of its fine fibrous particles, the 
 Philippino owes his undying allegiance to his beloved palm. 
 
 An exceedingly useful and coiumon plant is the hcjiico, or rattan, a sort 
 of bush rope, which has l)eeu known to grow to the great length of one 
 thousand feet. It is nothing unusual to hud a specimen three or four 
 hundred feet long. The application of this plant is almost as numerous 
 as that of the bamboo, and it is often used in conjunction with the other. 
 It is the natural cord with which to bind together whatever has become 
 l)r()ken or needs putting together in the home, on the plantation, in the 
 street or forest, shop or warehouse. Tlie thickest is used for making rafts 
 
 BA.MIUio YAKD.
 
 202 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 and cables, and with the baml)oo helps to make suspension bridges. It 
 has delicate fibres out of which cloths are woven and hats made. 
 
 Among the fruits the mango ranks first. It gi'ows from four to six 
 inches in length, is oval shaped, flattened on both sides, and yellow in 
 colour when ripe. It has a large stone in the centre, and the meat is 
 rich and delicious. The tree grows to great size, a majestic specimen of 
 the wealthy woods in its dark green foliage, and especially beautiful 
 during its flowering period. It is nothing unusual to get three pickings 
 of fruit during a year, and two are the rule. 
 
 The banana grows wild and is cultivated with profit, there being as 
 
 
 w^m 
 
 
 HR 
 
 
 
 ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^HM^B^V^kI^v^b 
 
 
 
 ' Ct*"" ■ 
 
 
 ^fc_ ■■"'?*frw' 
 
 -'^^mH 
 
 ^^K- 
 
 
 ^^^^^ 
 
 NATIVK HOI'SKS. 
 
 many as fifty varieties. The banana [Miisa paradisiaca), according to an 
 Arabic legend, is believed to be the plantain from which Adam and Eve 
 made their aprons, as well as having been the forbidden fruit of Eden. 
 
 ^he. papaw tree also grows wild here. This attains a height of twenty- 
 five feet, and has leaves from two to three feet in length. The fruit, of 
 a deep olive-green until ripe, when it is yellow, is in shape and flavour like 
 the melon, very delicious in its native land. Guavas are found wild in 
 great abundance, while tamarinds, with a fruit resembling beans, abound 
 plentifully in a wild state. There is also a native fruit, bearing a delight- 
 ful aroma but flavourless, which has the appearance of our peach. Pine- 
 apples grow abundant in tlie southern islands, but the fruit is not as fine 
 as in other countries, and, being dangerous to eat in that climate, is not
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 203 
 
 cultivated, except for its leaves, which have delicate fibres iitDised in the 
 manufacture of a costly texture known as plua and worn very much by 
 the women of the wealthy class. 
 
 Two kinds of lemons, the Pomelo orange, of verv lar^e size, and two or 
 three smaller varieties, the custard apple, citron, breadfruit, strawberry 
 of an inferior size and quality, with other fruits peculiar to the tropics, all 
 flourish here. The durien, about the size of the common pineapple and 
 delicious eating, but bearing only once in twenty 3'ears, thrives in the 
 western islands. 
 
 Numerous plants and herbs of medicinal value grow almost everywhere, 
 
 \ i 1,1, \i,i' 
 
 • N ,M I N !► V N \< 
 
 the most commonly used remedy being the bark of the dita tree, which is 
 used by the natives in case of fever. From this is obtained an alkaloid 
 called ditaine, which resembles in a mild degree quinine. From the 
 flowers of the ylang-ylang is extracted a highly prized perfume. 
 
 The flora of the islands is ricli in xariety and magnitude. A general 
 description of this, any more than tliat of the forests, cannot do it justice, 
 or convey to the imaginary beholder ])ut a slight jwrtion of the exquisite 
 pleasure of him who gazes on the virginal land.scape basking under the 
 magical influences of a tropical climate. On the island of Mindanao, which
 
 204 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 means " Man of the Lake," grows tlie largest known flower, which is 
 often from three to four feet in diameter. The Philippines have few, if 
 any, of the barren lava plains of Hawaii; none of the bare, desolate shores 
 of northern coasts ; but from the great storehouse of natural treasures of 
 Luzon, the largest and richest of these pearls of the Pacific, to the hun- 
 dreds of smaller gems, all resplendent in a vegetation which clothes not 
 only the plains and the lowlands but the mountains and the seashores 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF ILOILO. 
 
 with a verdure of many hues and never-fading gloss, here the florist finds 
 his paradise, and the botanist his wonderland. 
 
 The staple food raised is rice, though in some localities maize holds this 
 a good second. Potatoes, peas, and wlicat are cultivated successfull}- on 
 the highlands. So rapidly do crops grow and mature that it is a common 
 sight to see three stages of growth existing on the same plot of land, the 
 planting, cultivating, and harvesting going on in alternation accordingly 
 as the work had been begun. 
 
 The extensive coast lines of the islands afford many good harbours, the
 
 THE PIIILIl'l'INES. 
 
 205 
 
 best known of which are Manila and Sual, on the west shore of Luzon ; 
 Iloilo and Celju, the jjorts of cities by those names situated respectively on 
 the east side of the islands of Panay and Cebu. The first named is one of 
 the finest in the world, and is about one hundred and twenty miles in cir- 
 cumference. In stormy weather safe anchorage is to be had off Cavite, 
 about eight miles by water to the southwest, which place has become noted 
 as the scene of Admiral Dewey's first victory in the capture of the capital. 
 Iloilo, next in importance, is about two hundred and fifty miles in a direct 
 line from Manila. Studded with bays and creeks forming natural har- 
 bours, still the western coasts of Cebu, Negros, Mindoro, and the Palawan 
 
 V^-~ 
 
 Islands have no safe anchorages for any but small craft, the water l^eing 
 shallow, with many dangerous reefs. 
 
 While some of the streams reach the sea at flat or swampy places 
 through many mouths, otliers have cut their way through passages 
 down precipitous hillsides, making deep, narrow defiles with steep banks 
 not unlike the picturesque fjords of Norway, only here, instead of naked 
 cliffs of rocks, are earth-cliffs clothed with the glossy foliage of a vegeta- 
 tion favoured with the warmth and moisture of the equatorial zon(\ 
 
 Owing to the great length of the group, which extends from within 
 about four degrees of the Equator to wuthin the same distance of the 
 Tropic of Cancer, the islands have considerable variety of climate, though
 
 206 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 without losing its tropical influences. The Spanish ironically described 
 the seasons as " six months of nnid, six months of dust, six months of 
 everything ! " In fact, there are what are denominated the " wet " and 
 " dry" periods, with a gradual change from one to the other. Taking the 
 vicinity of Manila as an example, the hottest season is from JMarch to 
 June-, the highest temperature coming in the month of May, before the 
 rainy season sets in. The thermometer then registers from 80 to 100 
 degrees in the shade. The coolest time is in December and January, when 
 the temperature stands from 60 to 65 degrees at night, and seldom above 
 
 75 in the daytime. From November to February the sky is bright, the 
 atmosphere cool and invigorating, the weather delightful. 
 
 The northern islands lie in the track of the typhoons which sweep over 
 the China Sea, and may be expected any time between May and Novem- 
 ber, being the most frequent during July, August, and September. Tii 
 1875 a storm of this kind destroyed nearly four thousand houses and killed 
 three hundred people. Earthquakes are of common occurrence, and often 
 do vast amounts of damage to property and cause many deaths. One in 
 1863 destroyed the larger part of Manila, and killed or injured over three 
 thousand of the inhabitants. 
 
 During the heavy rains the rivers are swollen so as to overflow their 
 banks, and the lakes overrun the surrounding countrv, the floods often
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 207 
 
 doing great damage. A tidal wave in 1897 swept over the island of 
 Leyte, causing extensive destruction of life ami property. The rainfall at 
 Manila averages from seventy-five to one hundred and twenty inches a 
 year, while in the southern portion of the Archipelago the medium is one 
 hundred and forty-two inches, or almost twelve feet. From local reasons 
 considerable difference is often known, and the earth of one island may be 
 dry and parched for long intervals, while another in sight may be deluged 
 with rain. A mountain range sometunes makes a great variation, while 
 those of the Archipelago bordering on the Pacific have a climate quite the 
 opposite of those next the Indian Ocean. If one cared, he could move 
 about so as to escape the rains altogether. Though fever, malaria, and 
 other diseases, peculiar to a tropical clime are prevalent, the Philippines are 
 not as imhealthy as might be expected. The foreign-born citizen finds 
 the heat very oppressive, and mider its influence he soon finds liis nortli- 
 ern energy slipping away from him. Women and cliildren feel most 
 the dangers of the climate. Still, with good sanitary conditions about 
 tlie towns, and a clearing away of large tracts of the dense and malaria- 
 breeding forests, the Archipelago will, no doubt, show a far better health 
 condition. 
 
 The islands have been aptly termed the "Pearl of tlic Orient," but it is 
 an unpolislied jewel, wliich only American energy can bring to its proper 
 lustre. Their geographical position being sucli as not to bring them in-tlie 
 direct line of communication with the Far East, as has been the case with 
 the Hawaiian Islands, the Archipelago has long remained unrevealed to 
 the rest of the world. It has been a realm by itself, an object of strange 
 accounts and mysterious traditions even as known at Hong Kong six hun- 
 dred miles away. Here, unknown and undreamed of elsewhere, have l)een 
 enacted over and over some of the most cruel Avrongs and darkest trage- 
 ilics in tlic checkered drama of colonisation, Spanish secrecn^ and resistance 
 ti) jn-ogress always holding in tlie dark this land of the distant seas.
 
 
 f ^OA//(r, 
 
 TYPES OF MALAYS. 
 
 X^HAPTER II. 
 
 THE PEOPLE OF THE PHILIPPIXES. 
 
 EXTENDING as the Archiiaelago does over a vast extent of surface, 
 it is not strange tliat the islands are inhabited by many races of 
 people. No better beginning into a description of their ethnological 
 relations can be made than by dividing them into four distinct races, leav- 
 ing for further consideration, if one cares to continue the subject to com- 
 pletion, nearly a hundred subdivisions and tribes of mixed blood.-' 
 
 The Aetas or Negritos (''little Negroes"), which are found in the 
 mountains and backgrounds of every peopled island, are no doubt the 
 descendants of the original inhabitants, — the one race holding supremacy 
 over the entire Archipelago before the invasions of the foreign elements. 
 During the centuries of Spanish occupation they have changed the least 
 of any race, and whether it Avas Moslem, Malay, Chinese, Japanese, or 
 Spaniard, they have never been Conquered. This has not been from any 
 great prowess as warriors, for they are cowardly. Instead of standing up 
 in a square fight, the}^ retreat to the dense jungles, and from behind breast- 
 works of trees shoot down Avitli poisoned arrows Avhoever has attempted 
 to invade their rendezvous. As the tide of civilisation approached, they 
 retreated into the darker depths of the wilderness. This situation has 
 existed longer than written history can sIioav. 
 
 1 Such leadere ;iie referred to AVallace's " Malay Archipelago." 
 208
 
 ■^j^. ;i5^ 
 
 1
 
 THE rillLIPPINES. 
 
 209 
 
 The Negrito is dark-skinned, man}- of them as black as a true Negro, of 
 whii'h they are doubtless descended ; his hair is short and curly ; he is 
 slight in stature ; is content to clothe his body in a single garment made 
 of the bark of a tree and covering only his loins ; he is a fleet runner, 
 and can climb a tree like a monkey ; he is low in intellect, and cannot 
 1)6 domesticated to an extent Avhich will make him a trusty servant ; in 
 religion he has a sort of spirit worshiji, which teaches him to be respectful 
 to his friends and reverential to the dead. The man is far from good- 
 
 looking, though hale in appearance until he begins to show his age, which 
 is early in life, when he soon becomes emaciated in person. 
 
 The woman is not superior to the man, and is satisfied if her dress is 
 simply a short skirt about the hips. The Negrito maid, with her flashing 
 black eyes, and coal-black, closely knotted hair, and well-rounded figure, is 
 picturesque if not pretty ; but the matron of a few years later is far from 
 attractive. 
 
 They live in liamboo huts, and subsist mo.stly on fish, nuts, and nidun- 
 tain rice, alternated with beef when they can find a chance to steal the 
 cattle of the planters. They make a feint at agrirulture by scratching 
 the surface of the ground and scattering about a little seed. Tf it grows
 
 210 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 it means more rice for them ; if it fails, then a little more stealing will be 
 required. In this respect they are disagreeable neighbours. The whole race 
 is decreasing slowly, and before the advance of a progressive civilisation 
 must eventually fade away. 
 
 The Negritos were formerly masters of the island of Luzon, and held 
 power over the Malays, who came first about eight centuries ago. As the 
 
 latter race increased, they 
 were forced to retire to the 
 his;hlands and leave to their 
 usurpers the valleys and rich 
 lowlands along the coast. So 
 far and successfully did the 
 newcomers spread out that 
 to-day their descendants 
 number not less than five 
 millions, and are the most 
 intelligent of the islanders. 
 According; to tradition, their 
 early ancestors emigrated 
 from the Malay peninsula, 
 south of Asia, and first 
 settled on some of the larger 
 islands to the east of the 
 continent. They found al- 
 ready there the Polynesian 
 race, but these latter, unable 
 to cope with them, escaped 
 tu the smaller islands of the 
 Pacific, going as far north 
 as Hawaii. The two races are entirely distinct. From Sumatra, Java, 
 and other islands, these Malayans eventually reached the Philippines, set- 
 tling principally on the two largest. In the course of time they were 
 overpowered by the Spaniards, whose excessive tyranny has so tempered 
 their warlike spirit as to make the present Tagalogs the mildest and most 
 submissive of the semibarbarous races. 
 
 The men are seldom much above five feet in stature, of supple figure, 
 
 NATIVE WAKKIOR lUOM INlKUIdl; lU MINDANAO.
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 211 
 
 bright eyes, high cheek-bones, and countenances that display very little 
 personal spirit or character. The richer class dress showily in trousers, 
 with blouses worn outside, both garments made of Manila hemp, or ahucd. 
 Another suit of silken texture is made of a fabric woven from the leaf of 
 the pineapple, and called pina. Of a white or vivid yellow, this is often 
 interwoven with Ijlue or 
 green silk, and sometimes 
 embroidered with flowers. 
 They encase their feet in 
 sandals or patent leather 
 shoes, unless the owner 
 chooses to go barefooted, 
 which is not considered bad 
 form. A hat plaited from 
 the nito or liana, orna- 
 mented with a wide band 
 of embroidered cloth, or 
 fancy work in silver, covers 
 the head. His poorer 
 brother imitates his style. 
 but his clothes are made of 
 a coarser material, and 
 there is more likelihood 
 that his feet will have no 
 shoes. 
 
 The women are better 
 natured and more vi^•a- 
 cious than the men, but 
 as a rule are not pretty. 
 Like tlie females of all warm climates, they have a tendency to obesity as 
 they grow older, though they are more industrious than their male consorts. 
 Bright colours delight her, a skirt of burning red, Avitli a niany-hued 
 undervest, over which is worn the waist of silken texture, dark, and orna- 
 mented with the gay and beautiful pina, fringed with embroidery, thrown 
 lightly across the shoulders. The raven haii- falls from imder a snowy 
 mantle, while the toes, but not the instep of tlie brown foot, are encased in 
 
 riiiiirri.NO mirr girl.
 
 212 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 a heelless slipper. The Pliilippino is an apt scholar, but indolent by nature ; 
 loves music, but is sadly lacking many of the finer sensibilities of a higher 
 civilisation. Long centuries of Spanish oppression leave him discontented 
 with his lot, and ever looking for an opportunity to strike a blow in retali- 
 ation, as well he might after the teachings along such lines for many 
 generations. A voluntary act of yielding in any way to him, however 
 
 well meant the intention, is 
 looked upon by him as an in- 
 dication of weakness on the 
 part of his benefactor, and 
 a fitting opportunity to move 
 on the aggressive. The 
 Spaniards long since learned 
 this, and it has had some- 
 thing to do with their relent- 
 less measures. 
 
 The race is strong in 
 family affections, loves chil- 
 dren, 1)ut the majority are 
 superstitious to a great de- 
 gree, though the only peojile 
 on the islands who have the 
 credit of being converted to 
 that Christianity spread so 
 assiduously by the followers 
 of Arneta, the pioneer of the 
 Catholic Church in the Phil- 
 ippines. Among the ideas 
 of their original religion is a belief that when the person is asleep his soul 
 is absent from his body, and to awaken a sleeper suddenly will not give 
 the spirit time to return to its proper place. The Philippine has been de- 
 scribed on the Avhole '• as an incomprehensible phenomenon, the mainspring 
 of whose line of thought and the guiding motive of whose actions have 
 never yet been, and perhaps never Avill be, discovered." After years of 
 apparent faithfulness, he may, without any valid reason, turn against his 
 master, hesitating at no crime. This trait may have been born inherent in 
 
 A WEALTHY HALF-CASTE PHILIl-PINO LADY.
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 213 
 
 liiin ; it may have been largely acquired I'ruiii the influences surrounding 
 his unhappy life. 
 
 Above the pure native in intellect, better looking, more interesting, in 
 one case with a higher grade of morality, and with greater influence in 
 business and politics, are two classes of half-breeds, or mestizos. The first 
 and better element of these are the descendants of native mothers who 
 married Spanish husbands. This is really a fine race, though, if the alli- 
 ance with European blood is not kept up bej'ond one generation, the dis- 
 tinctive traits begin to fade 
 away. As a rule the mestiza 
 girls are very beautiful, with 
 soft complexions, white teeth, 
 bewitching black eyes, grace- 
 ful deportment, and they are 
 noted as fine dancers. Many 
 of them are educated in the 
 convents, and have good musi- 
 cal talent, which is everywhere 
 encouraged. 
 
 The second class of mixed 
 bloods are of Philippino-Chinese 
 extraction, native mothers and 
 Chinese fathers. These are 
 called mestizos - Chinese, and 
 the men of this race are among 
 the shrewdest merchants and 
 most skilful me(;lianics, but 
 
 they have been troublesome factors in the affairs of government, and more 
 than all other classes combined have been instrumental in the revolts 
 and uprisings which have been so frequent. They Avere the original 
 " rebels," whom others, equally dissatisfied with Spanish rule, liesitated to 
 join in a fight for freedom, fearing them more than the Spaniards. 
 
 About tlie beginning of the sixteenth century, or just before the Spanish 
 discovery of the islands, a warlike, piratical people overran the island of 
 Basilan, in the southern part of the Archipelago, and soon spread to the 
 adjoining islands, sweeping them clear of the native race wherever they 
 
 MESTIZOS.
 
 214 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 went. The Spanish called tlieni Maros. or Moors, and they are supposed 
 to have been descended from the Mussulman Dyaks of Borneo. Their 
 history here is one almost continual warfare with the native races and 
 Spaniards, until the latter were glad to compromise with so formidable an 
 enemy. For over two centuries their war-junks carried terror to the 
 inhabitants of all parts of the Archipelago. Whole towns were razed, 
 plantations ravaged, and the people driven back into the forests. So 
 
 SULU rilAU. 
 
 complete was their work of devastation that dire poverty followed in the 
 paths of their raids. 
 
 But it was not alone for plunder that this was done. When the Church 
 of Spain undertook to convert to its following the fanatical Moslem, it 
 stirred up a people it could neither persuade nor put down. The hatred 
 of the Mussulmans for the Christians was equal to that of the followers of 
 Mahomet in the religious wars which deluged Europe in holy blood. Here, 
 in the South Seas, was enacted the same bitter strife, and, as there, no real 
 victory was gained on either side. Foreman, in his " History of the Phil-
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 215 
 
 ij^pines," says : •' From the time the Spaniards first interfered with the 
 Mussuhnans there was continual warfare. Expeditions against the pirates 
 were constantly being fitted out by each succeeding governor. Piracy was 
 indeed an incessant scourge and plague on the colony, and it cost the 
 Spaniards rivers of blood and millions of dollars only to keep it in check." 
 In the present century, the Mussulmans appeared even in the Bay of 
 Manila. There are persons yet living who have been in Mussulman 
 captivity. There are hundreds Avho still remember with anguish the 
 
 SULTAN OF SIJLU INTKKVIKWING El'RorKAN VISITORS. 
 
 insecurity to which tlieir hves and property were exposed. Tlie Spaniards 
 were quite luiable to cope with such a prodigious calamity. The coast 
 villagers built forts for their defence, and many an old stone watch-tower 
 is still to be seen on the islands soutli of Luzon. 
 
 Tliis race now extends over Mindanao Island and tlie Sulu group, al)out 
 ninety islands in all, with a population of 110.000 on the Sulu Sultanate 
 alone. The population of Mindanao is univnown. There ai"e about 125,000 
 of the faith in Luzon. 
 
 These people are generally rather j)repossessing in appearance, the men 
 very robust, lithe, and active. Brave and bold when occasion demands, they
 
 216 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 are yet careful and conservative in their plans. They are fearless, skilful 
 navigators, and, armed with swords, lances, krises, their bodies protected 
 with shields and armour, all of their own make, are formidable adver- 
 saries in battle. All males over sixteen years of age are obliged to bear 
 arms, and they have an army of over twenty thousand on the Sulu group 
 alone. 
 
 Fund of bright colours, both men and women dress somewhat elaborately. 
 
 Tlie former wear tight-fit- 
 ting breeches of a scarlet 
 hue, a waistcoat, and jacket 
 with small sleeves, all three 
 garments decorated with 
 rows of bright buttons, and 
 he covers his head with the 
 Turkish turban ; the latter 
 encase their bodies in a 
 iJ-love-fitting bodice, covered 
 with arabesque designs, and 
 which is met by the baggy 
 dual nether garments that 
 seem a part of their faith. 
 On their heads they draw 
 a peculiar hood, called the 
 jahiil, and made with a 
 long skirt w hicli falls down 
 the sides when not held 
 uji under the arms. The 
 MOHAMMED, SULTAN OF si'Lu. Moros liavc a Icgcnd that 
 
 man was a giant in his early days, and that he is gradually growing 
 smaller, though his mind increases m power as the body decreases. Their 
 staple crops are rice, sugar-cane, maize, indigo, and coffee. The principal 
 export is pearls, to secure which they often dive a hundred feet. 
 
 The Sultan, or " Stainless One," is the despotic head of the State and 
 Church. His palace, constructed of wood, stands in the centre of the new 
 capital of Maybun. lie displays considerable pomp, and lives in ease and 
 luxury, s.urroundeid by a throng of sultanas. This power holds many slaves,
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 217 
 
 captives obtained in their wars, or children born of them. With this 
 fanatical people it would seem the American government is likely to have 
 its most serious trouble, when brought into direct contact with them. At 
 present an armistice or compromise has been arranged by which they are 
 to remain under their local authority, but acknowledging fealty to the 
 republic. How long this will last or how creditable it is to republican 
 ideas of government remains to be seen. 
 
 On the southern islands are the visayas, a half-breed people composed 
 of the bloods of the Taga- 
 losrs and the Mussulmans 
 or Sulus. They are a sul- 
 len, savage, thievish race, 
 whose ancestors were 
 among the criminals of 
 the lowlands of Neo;ros and 
 the sugar plantations of 
 Luzon, driven out by the 
 Spanish and married to 
 Sulu women. The}' ap- 
 pear to have inherited all 
 of the worst qualities of 
 their progenitors without 
 any of their better natures. 
 The Spanish have had seri- 
 ous trouble with them, and 
 the wars are records of the 
 most cruel deeds on both 
 
 sides. U.nnUOTKS. 
 
 Among the less numerous races may be mentioned the Gaddanes, of 
 the northwestern part of Luzon. This is a dark, picturesque people, 
 wearing long hair, taking the scalps of their victims in war, and offering 
 them as a marriage dowry and proof of their valour. They still meet 
 annually under the bursting buds of the fire-tree, and offer their collec- 
 tions of trophies of war with rude ritual rites to their gods. 
 
 Another race still unsubdued is the Igorrotes, of the northern half of 
 the same island. These people are copper-hued, like the North American 

 
 218 ■ THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Indians, and, like them and the Gaddanes, take the scalp of those they 
 slay in battle. They are pagans of a fanatical type, but conceal their 
 gods and graven idols in the caverns of the mountains. 
 
 The Tinguianes live in the territory of El Abra, in Luzon, and, while 
 professing a certain sort of allegiance to a civilised government, hold their 
 privilege to live under laws of their own making and chiefs of their own 
 race. The head of the village, on accepting his office, swears himself by 
 the following queer oath : "May a blast of the tempest wither me, 
 may the lightning kill me. or the alligator eat me while I sleep, if I am 
 unfaithful to my trust." 
 
 Even a partial enumeration of the different peoples, each with its pecul- 
 iar characteristics, would not 
 be complete without mention 
 of the Chinese, who have 
 come early and late, of whom 
 there are now, in spite of 
 many wholesale massacres and 
 most violent measures of sup- 
 pression, something like a 
 hundred thousand. They have 
 secret organisations, guilds, and courts, Avhose objects are to afford 
 them such protection as may be secured from a power unfriendly 
 to them, while they have representatives in the government. They 
 have intermarried to a considerable extent, and in this way more 
 than all ^others gained a foothold. As I shall treat of them quite 
 fully in my description of the Spanish conquest, no more need be said 
 here. 
 
 The population of the Philippines is supposed to be in the vicinity of 
 eight million, the bulk of which belongs to the native element, with its 
 eighty odd tribes scattered over a hundred islands. He who would learn 
 very much of them from personal observation must travel extensively, 
 and often with every precaution against danger to his life. It will be 
 observed from what is written that the Philippinos, or descendants of the 
 Malays, are the only race or tribe the Spanish have succeeded in bring- 
 ing into anything like a state of subservience to the methods of a civilised 
 government and church. But the light of Christianity fell on them like 
 
 IGORROTE PIPES.
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 219 
 
 the burning embers of freedom sraoiildering to darkness, and the powers 
 of the state were huge pillars raised on the ruins of that liberty so dear 
 to them. They followed but slowly and with averted faces the wa}^ 
 marked out by the black-robed Fathers of the Far West, with eyes closed 
 to the prospect ahead, and the dark Inquisition behind.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE ANIMAL KINGDOM. 
 
 UNLIKE the island of Borneo, the PhiHppines are not specially 
 favoured with animal life. There are few wild creatures, and only 
 three that are realh" antagonistic to human life. These are the 
 wildcat, wild boar, which the natives hold in considerable fear, and the 
 carabao, a species of buffalo, dangerous only when aroused. Wild boars 
 are found the most numerous-on the island of Tawi Tawi. Domesticated 
 hogs are to be found in everv native village, looking verv nuich like their 
 kindred of the wilds. Three or four varieties of deer roam the mountain 
 sides, affording excellent hunting for the sportsmen and a good portion 
 of the meat eaten. Monkeys abound in the forests, and among the several 
 sjsecies is one of a pure white. 
 
 The most important animal is the carabao, or buffalo, which is easily 
 domesticated if caught voung. Stalking the wild carabao bv moonlight, 
 creeping upon the unsuspecting brute from behind a tame animal of its 
 kind trained for the purpose, is considered the rarest sport of the Philip- 
 pine huntsman. When close ujion his game the hunter leaps from his 
 covert, and with his machete (stout knife) hamstrings his victim with 
 two swift, unerring blows. He knows that if he misses his life will have 
 to pay for his mistake, for the wounded buffalo is a terrible enemy. Its 
 short, sharp hoi'n is a weajjon to be dreaded, and there is nothing short 
 of death or victory m a fight w4th a carabao. 
 
 In its domesticated state the carabao becomes the plough-horse of the 
 primitive planter. Hitched to a plough of the most crude pattern, being 
 simply a long sharpened stick for point, fastened by rattan thongs at an 
 angle of forty-five degrees to a pole which answers for beam, with a per- 
 pendicular piece lashed on for a handle, it moves slowdy over the ground. 
 He is faithful to the slightest command, but cannot work during the 
 hottest part of the day, and he cannot live without his daily mud bath. 
 
 220
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 221 
 
 He perforins his ablutions b}- throwing himself on one side in some miry- 
 pool, rolling and plunging about until he is plastered with the sticky 
 substance. When he has dried himself in the sun he looks like an ugly 
 image of chiy in his mud shell. Nature in this way provides him with 
 a means of safety from the stings of millions of insects which swarm 
 about him as he feeds among the rank vegetation. He is an amphibious 
 animal, and gets a considerable part of his food from a plant growing at 
 the bottom of streams. If docile and attentive to his native master, he 
 
 CARABAOS TRANSPOl; 1 IM: A1;MV ■-TOUI 
 
 has an overmastering fear of foreigners, and the mere sight of a white 
 man has been known to stampede every buffalo in town. The meat of 
 the carabao is eaten by the natives. 
 
 Besides the species just described, there is another kind of buffalo on the 
 Lsland of Mindoro, which is a curious little animal living only in the dense 
 jungles, and called the timarau. It is a mortal enemy to the carabao, 
 and will attack the other upon sight, generally coming off the victor. Its 
 flesh is good eating, but it cannot be tamed, and is seldom hunted, on 
 account of its ferociousness.
 
 222 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Wild cattle are fouBd on several islands, and the domesticated kine are 
 extensively raised for beef, which is of poor quality, owing to a certain 
 herb on which they feed. What is true of the beef applies to the flesh 
 of fish and fowl, all of which has a disagreeable taste to the American and 
 European. The cattle are a small, humpbacked variety, on a few islands 
 used for draught purposes. Milk is everywhere very scarce, and fresh 
 butter and cheese not to be had. 
 
 Though not natives, wild horses are met with in different parts of the 
 Archipelago. They are descended from the Andalusian horse and the 
 Chinese mare, mere ponies in size and not used as beasts of burden. Still, 
 
 VILLAGE ON THE ISLAND OF GUIMARAS. 
 
 they are strong for their size, and quite fleet of foot. They are now made 
 to draw the street-cars of Manila, and, sure-footed and swift, nothing save 
 a strong head wind seems capable of stopping them, but traffic has to 
 suspend while the gale lasts. 
 
 Other domestic animals are dogs, cats, pigs, goats, and monkeys, all of 
 which are to be seen in a wild state. The first two are inferior in size 
 and looks to American cats and dogs, the former being marked by a 
 peculiar twist to the tail. 
 
 Of reptiles and venomous insects there is a surfeit. The most promi- 
 nent are frogs, hzards, snakes, centipedes, enormous spiders, tarantulas.
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 223 
 
 hornets, beetles, ants, horned toads, and huge bats in numerous colonies. 
 Some of the last named measure five or six feet from tip to tip of their 
 wings, and they have bodies as large as cats. Europeans hunt them for 
 their soft skins, while natives eat their flesh. Excepting the mancqjo, 
 which haunts the rice-fields, and whose bite is fatal if not immediately 
 cauterised, the snakes are usually harmless. Mighty boa-constrictors 
 are the kings of serpents in the Philippines, but are seldom seen, and then 
 not so much dreaded as the manapo with its deadly sting. Leeches are 
 
 STREET -CARS IN MANILA. 
 
 another disagreeable inliabitant of the wild woods and stagnant pools, 
 leaping upon the intruder when least expected, beginning to fill up on the 
 blood of its victim at once. Crocodiles of great size swim in the bodies of 
 fresh water and streams, though until one has tasted human flesh it is not 
 much feared. But once one of them lias broken the rule and becomes 
 a man-eater, he is the most dreaded creature known in Mindanao. Cobras 
 are occasionally seen in Samar and Mindanao, while small-sized pythons 
 are found almost everywhere, and are kept for sale as rat catchers in the 
 larger towns.
 
 224 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 YOUNG WILD GOAT. 
 
 Ants and mosquitoes are the greatest pests of tlie islands. No bed is 
 lacking its mosquito net, without which there would be no sleep for tlie 
 ocaqaant. There is a species of white ants which feed upon dry wood in 
 every shape and condition, eating into furniture, household utensils, and 
 
 even the frame of the building 
 in which the owner lives, actu- 
 ally eating him out of house and 
 home. The natives tell strange 
 and marvellous stories of their 
 depredations. It is related that 
 an elegant chair, owned b}' a 
 wealthy man. who prized it for 
 its associations with the nobility 
 of his native land, suddenly col- 
 lapsed as a visitor seated him- 
 self upon it. On examination, 
 it was found that the whole structure was nothing but a shell, the white 
 ants having eaten away all else. They had not been seen, for though 
 blind themselves, they always manage to keep out of sight, working 
 silently in the dark until the liardest piece of wood, without showing any 
 signs of the havoc wrought, is 
 but a husk. 
 
 The greatest pest is yet the 
 locust, which resembles a large 
 grasshopper, and comes every 
 few years in vast numbers, 
 swarming over every green field 
 until laying bare and desolate 
 acres on acres of growing crops. 
 The henq) plantation is exempt 
 from their depredations, but 
 nearly every other crop is in 
 danger from them. Upon the approach of these ravenous creatures 
 in great clouds, winging their flight from place to place, the natives 
 assemble about the threatened field, and make all the noise they can, or 
 make a dense smoke by burning damp fuel. These efforts may be partially 
 
 CALAO BIRD.
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 225 
 
 successful, but a locust flight is always marked by a wide path of ruined 
 crops. 
 
 Still, it is ''an ill wind that blows nobody good," and the poorer class of 
 inhabitants consider the locust a luxury for their table, and they lay their 
 plans to catch all they can. In some cases the parish priest has been 
 besought to pray that this scourge of the planter might come often and 
 stay long with them. 
 
 In 1851 some martins were 
 imported from China by the 
 government, it being claimed 
 that they were great enemies 
 to the locust. The newcomers 
 were received with great en- 
 thusiasm, and treated with the 
 utmost veneration. They have 
 thrived well in their new home, 
 while the lociists have not 
 seemed to lose anything by 
 them. 
 
 Mosquitoes have enemies in 
 the newt and chacoii . The last 
 is a sort of lizard, homely and 
 ugly-looking enough to frighten 
 away even mosquitoes. The 
 newt is liked by the inhabi- 
 tants, and is spared with par- 
 ticular attention. A shy crea- pk acock. 
 ture, he has a peculiar habit, if caught by the tail, of shaking that 
 appendage otf and scampering away minus the ornament. Fish of 
 numerous kinds swim in the surrounding seas, while sharks add zest to 
 the excitement of the fisher. 
 
 If showing rather an unfavouraljle inventory of mammals and carniv- 
 orous animals, tlie Pliilijipines are fortunate in the numlier and variety of 
 birds. No less than six hundred species are found on the islands. Some 
 of them are of rare beauty, but among them all there is not a sweet-voiced 
 songster. The game birds are snipe, pheasant, pigeons, ducks, woodcocks,
 
 220 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 and other waterfowls. Hawks, cranes, herons, parrots, and paroquets are 
 pecuHar to the Archipelago. Romantic accounts are given of strange 
 birds and their habits. Among them it is told of a bright little bird that 
 immediately dies upon being captured ; another is a small, dark-coloured 
 bird whicli builds its nest^ in the tails of wild horses ; another has the 
 colours of the rainbow, and can imitate the cries of all others of the feath- 
 ered tribe ; still another is a pigeon with a crimson splash on its In-east as 
 if tlie blood had gathered there from a wound. The dusky -hued crow, 
 known the world over, the brilliant cockatoo, the saucy kingfisher, and 
 the poet's turtledove are all found here. There is a species of swift whose 
 nests are higlily valued as an article of food. These are made from the 
 salivary excretions coming from the builder, and are found in caves or 
 on the sides of steep cliffs, where it is dangerous for man to climb. The 
 first nest for the season made by the bird, usually in December, is pure in 
 its material, and when dry becomes hard and looks like glue. It is claimed 
 to be worth its weight in gold. But after the bird has been robbed once 
 or twice she begins to include foreign matter in its construction. Nest- 
 hunting is a paying vocation, the Chinese being the principal buyers. 
 
 At night, during the dry season, very brilliant fireflies hover and flutter 
 around some of the native trees like moths around a candle, until the 
 entire foliage is illuminated as if by thousands of tiny lamps swaying in 
 and out among the branches, making it a fascinating picture.
 
 Vll.I.AGK ON MINIJANAO. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SPANISH DISCOVERY AND DOMINION. 
 
 AT the dawning of the sixteenth century, while the Philippines were 
 indolently whiling away lives that were less than scratches in the 
 sands of time, their greatest concern the state of the activity of 
 the near-by volcano, their only care to be prepared for the terrible typhoon 
 wliich came with equinoctial regularity, or the earthquake which was 
 likely to break upon them as a thief in the night, and their most severe 
 exertion a skirmish with some rival tribe, Spain and Portugal were quar- 
 relling over the supremacy of the world. It mattered not if these Euro- 
 pean powers, in their ignorance of the land and sea, dreamed not of these 
 island kinglets. Their fates hung in the balance of these ambitious 
 nations. 
 
 Anxious to court the mutual favours of the rivals, Pope Alexander VI., 
 styled " the vicar of God on earth," sought to end the intense feeling by 
 issuing in 1494 a papal bull which declared that the globe should be 
 divided into two hemispheres, the meridian of Cape Verde Islands and 
 the same degree of longitude on the opposite side of the sphere to be the 
 
 227
 
 228 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 dividing lines of the nations. To Spain wa.s decreed the western hemi- 
 sphere, wliile on Portngal was bestowed that on the east, each to have the 
 right to claim and colonise all heathen lands they might discover within 
 their respective allotments. 
 
 The Spanish government, on the iDtli uf April. 14U5, granted its royal 
 sanction to all who wished to search for lands in the unexplored quarters 
 of the globe. This done, in the excitement of the discoveries of Columbus, 
 the rivalry was transferred from the courts of royalty to the ships of the 
 adventurous navigators. wIki puslicd out more boldly than ever into the far 
 
 SCENK OX MINDANAO. 
 
 and unknown seas. Among these was Vasco Nunez de Balboa, whose dis- 
 covery on tlie :^(itli of September, 1513. of an ocean on the western 
 shore of America created widespread interest. But if De Balboa gazed on 
 the broad Pacific, it was from the mountain-top. with his ships far behind 
 him. and liow to get them across to the newly discovered waters was a 
 mystery and enterprise left to be solved by that prince of circumnavigators, 
 Hernando de Maghallanes, a Portuguese noble by birth. 
 
 Maghallanes had accompanied an expedition fitted out liy Portugal to 
 visit Moluccas or Spice Islands, with which that country had opened trade 
 some years before, and on that voyage the islands of Tidor and Badau
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 
 
 229 
 
 were discovered, suggesting to him an inkling of what might lie in the 
 sea extending into the Far East. But before he could carry out his project 
 of further exploration in that direction he had trouble with his king 
 of such a serious nature that he renounced his birthright, and became, 
 by naturalisation, a citizen of 
 Spain, and his name was 
 changed to Ferdinand Magel- 
 lan. King Charles listened 
 with favour to his scheme, and 
 fitted him out with five vessels, 
 which set sail on their long 
 voyage the 10th of August, 
 1519. 
 
 Crossing the Atlantic in four 
 months, the little squadron 
 reached Rio Janeiro safely t)n 
 the 13th of December. Stand- 
 ing then away to the south, 
 in the hope of finding a pas- 
 sage to the Pacific, Magellan 
 soon found himself obliged to 
 resort to strenuous measures in 
 order to prevent an outbreak 
 among his follower's, some of 
 whom objected to ihe course 
 taken by him. Unfavourable 
 weather succeeding, a short stop 
 was made at the mouth of the 
 Hio de la Plata (Silver River), 
 then named Rio Solis. in hon- 
 
 ... i- e \ ■ i • 1 MINDANAO WAKHIOK. 
 
 our oi one ot his captauis who 
 
 met his death there. Soon after resuming liis advance, mw of lii.s ves.sels 
 was wrecked and another deserted him, so tliat (july three ships of liis little 
 fleet were left hiui when, on the I'Stli of October. 1520, he enteretl the 
 channel since known by his name, and on November 2(ith stood bravtdy 
 out into tlie vast Pacific, with no knowledge of what lay in his pathway.
 
 230 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Following a northwesterly direction, the Mariana, or Ladrone Islands, 
 were discovered on the 16th of March, 1521, where a short stop was made. 
 The natives crowded around the ships in such numbers that a fierce fight 
 ensued, and as they seemed determined to steal everything they could, the 
 place was given the name which in English means " Robbers' Islands." 
 Sailing westward from this point, Magellan next reached one of the largest 
 of the Philippine Islands, Mindanao. 
 
 Anchor was cast at the mouth of Butuan River, and the vessels lay off 
 shore, while crowds of brown-tinted natives swarmed around them, believ- 
 
 MERCHANT VKSSELS NEAR BRIDGE OF SPAIN, PASIG RIVER. 
 
 ing that the light-skinned newcomers in their mighty ships were messen- 
 gers of light coming from the land of dawn. The day of discovery having 
 been that dedicated to St. Lazarus, the island was nami'd in honour of 
 that patron of the Chunli, a name afterward extended to cover the whole 
 Archipelago. The natives proving friendly, the Spanish took possession 
 in the name of Charles I. without bloodshed, and it being Easter week 
 they proceeded to consecrate the new possession to God and the Catholic 
 Church with all the dazzling display of the ritualist rites. 
 
 Then, inducing the Butuan chief to become his pilot. Magellan sailed to 
 the island of Cebn. which he had been told was richer than the one first 
 seen. Here he was greeted with a greater number of natives than before.
 
 XA 1 l\ l; I III V I Ki . I AC, I I
 
 THE rmUPPINES. 231 
 
 all of whom were armed witli spears and carried shields. A few words 
 from tlie Butuaii cliief, however, convinced the inhabitants that the vis- 
 itors were disposed to be friendly, when the chief of Cebu consented to 
 a treaty of peace, providing it could be carried out according to Celman 
 ideas of ratification. This was to draw blood from the breast of each man, 
 and from as many natives, one to drink that of the other. 
 
 The condition was accepted by Magellan, and the ceremony denominated 
 liy the Spaniards as Pacto de sangre, or " brotherhood of blood," completed, 
 they proceeded to disembark. A hut was then erected on the shore, when 
 tile impressive scene of mass followed. Looking on with awe, the king 
 and his men accepted the baptism, and swore allegiance to Spain. 
 All of this but .slightly understood b}' the natives, Spanish rule at once 
 began. 
 
 Upon learning that their new subjects were at war with the inhabitants 
 of another island, called Magtan, Magellan offered himself and men as 
 allies, seeing further visions of conquest, and it might be of riches. His 
 offer was gladly accepted ; but at the first skirmish with the enemy 
 Magellan was mortally wounded by a poisoned arrow on the 25th of April, 
 1021, when the allied forces retreated in disorder. 
 
 Thus miserably perished, at the very zenith of his glory, a man worthy 
 of a better fate. In his untimely fate Spain lost her most illustrious and 
 deserving navigator, Columbus alone excepted. Both of these were not 
 native-born, but adopted citizens. The deeds of the great Portuguese are 
 commemorated by a monument, erected, it is believed, where he fell on the 
 island of Magtan. On the shore of Cebu is an obelisk marking the bcat-h 
 where he first landed on the island, while in front of the city of Manila, 
 on the left bank of the Pasig River, stands a third testimonial to the 
 memory of the discoverer of the Pliili])pines. 
 
 One of Magellan's subordinates a.ssumed command of the squadron, but 
 this leader, Duarte de Barbosa, with twenty-five of his companions, was 
 killed at a banquet given by the King of Cebu. A Spaniard named Ser- 
 rano was alone spared of all on the shore at the time, and he was held for 
 a ransom of two cannons from the ships. In the hope of driving the Span- 
 iards to their terms, this captive was marched up and down the beach in 
 plain sight of his countrymen. In accordance with Serrano's signals, and 
 fearing to remain longer in that vicinity, the Spaniards weighed anchor,
 
 TIIK FAl! EAST. 
 
 and sailed away from the island, leaving their unfortunate comrade to an 
 vnirecorded fate. 
 
 The history of this expedition, the first voyage arourrd the globe, and 
 the greatest which had been made at that time, is filled with a series of 
 misfortunes and misadventures which give it a melancholy interest. 
 Their numbers now reduced to less than one hundred, which was too 
 small to navigate the three vessels, after dividing the seamen between 
 two of them, one was burned off the coast of Cebu. The remnant of 
 the little squadron, which had sailed so proudly out of the home port, 
 
 MOUTH OF RIVKR COIIIULO, PALAWAN. 
 
 now headed for the island of Borneo, which was known to the 
 Portuguese. 
 
 On their way thither the island of Palawan was discovered, but some 
 of the seamen were lost, the ships were separated, and after many more 
 misfortunes and great hardships, three years from the time of their 
 departure a mere handful of the original numbers — seventeen skeletons 
 of hardy men, ragged, and famished — walked barefooted through the 
 streets of Seville that they might reach the cathedral and offer their 
 thanks to God for their safe return, before receiving the homage of 
 their countrymen over the achievements of their remarkable voyage. 
 Elcano, the commander, was granted a life pension, knighted by the 
 exultant King Charles, and given permission to place on liis coat of 
 arms a globe having the motto, " Primus circumdedit me." The re- 
 maining ship of Magellan's squadron had fallen into the hands of the 
 Portuguese, after being disabled and most of the seamen lost. The
 
 THE riULIFl'IXES. 
 
 2.33 
 
 survivors were sent to Lisbon, which they reached five years from the 
 time of their departure on the memorable expedition. 
 
 Aroused by the discoveries of Magellan, Charles fitted out other 
 expeditions, none of which accomplished anything worthy of note. De 
 Villabos, the connnander of one, renamed the islands in honour of the 
 king's son, Philip, heir apparent to the throne of Castile, the Philippines. 
 
 Philip II., who succeeded to the throne on the abdication of his father 
 in 1555, was a religious bigot. He immediately fitted out a squadron 
 of four ships and a frigate, with eight hundred soldiers and six priests, 
 
 VILLAGE OK HAIIKLK, PALAWAN. 
 
 with the avowed purpose of subjugating the natives of the Phdippines 
 and l)ringing them mider the influences of the Churcii. A famous Basque 
 navigator, named Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, was placed in command. In 
 the due course of time tlic fleet appeared off the coast of Mindanao, 
 to the wonder and terror of the inhabitants. The king set a watch 
 over the mysterious comers, who soon proclaimed that they were men 
 of mighty stature, with white faces and long beards ; that they l)lew 
 smoke and fire out of their nostrils, ate stones (sea bi.scuits), connuanded 
 the tluuider and lightning, and were no <loubt jx)werful gods. This 
 announcement was received witli dismay, and the natives received the
 
 234 
 
 THE FAR EAST. 
 
 Spaniards in a friendly manner, as their fathers had Magellan and his 
 followers. They gave them glowing accounts of the power and riches 
 of Cebu, lying to the south. Legaspi resolved to reconquer this island 
 and add it again to the realms of the king. 
 
 But the Cebuans resisted the new arrivals on every hand, and when 
 they could not cope with tliem in open battle retired to the deep forest 
 surrounding the town, and waged a predatory warfare. Harassed thus, 
 Legaspi several times thought to abandon the quest, l:)ut he finally cap- 
 tured tlie city, and, winning over to his side some of the leading natives, 
 
 OLDEST I IllUCU I>' MANILA. 
 
 made a firm stand. The island was declared to belong to the Crown of 
 Castile, and its inhabitants to be subjects of Spain. A messenger was 
 despatched back to the mother country with the news of their success. 
 The natives began to flock to the standard of their conquerors ; the king's 
 daughter married one of the Spaniards, and several alliances by marriage 
 were afterward made. 
 
 In the midst of the good fortunes of these foreign invaders, the Portu-" 
 guese. who, ever since their discovery by Magellan, had claimed that they 
 belonged to tliem, according to pontifical appointment, appeared on the 
 scene to dispute the authority of the new claimants. But they proved
 
 THE PHILIPPINES. 235 
 
 weaker than their rivals and were obhgecl to withdraw, whereupon 
 Legaspi built a fortress and laid out streets on which the Spanish began 
 to build houses. In 1570 intelligence reached Legaspi that the King of 
 Castile had declared him governor-general of all the islands he might 
 discover and hold. He thereupon proclaimed Cebu a Spanish capital, 
 and sent an expedition to bring the island of Luzon, of which he had 
 heard nuich, uuder his jurisdiction, giving the coniniand to his grandson, 
 the youthful Juan Salcedo. 
 
 The appearance of the warlike strangers before Manila, then called 
 Manyla, the ancient capital of Luzon, caused the nati\es to capitiilate 
 without resistance. The island of Mindoro was next seized, and the 
 governor-general apprised of the conquests. On the arrival of Legaspi 
 at Manila the following year, that city was declared to be the capital 
 of the whole Archipelago, and the sovereignty of the king was pro- 
 nounced over the entire group of islands. Governor-General Legaspi 
 died on the 20th of August, 1572, and his war-worn body was given 
 burial in the St. Augustine Chapel of San Fausto in Manila, where the 
 standard of Spanish royalty and the armorial bearings of the conqueror 
 remained until the occupation of the capital by the English nearly two 
 hundred years later. 
 
 Thus, with what was relatively a mere handful of followers, this 
 persevering and honourable champion of Spain won almost without 
 bloodshed one of her richest colonial possessions, and established Spanish 
 power in the Far East.
 
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