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 I LIBRARY I 
 
 \CAtlK»NIA J 
 
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ROCKY CHASM NEAR ACQUAPENDENTE . 
 
 Front. 
 
TWO YEARS 
 
 IN THE 
 
 PONTIFICAL ZOUAVES, 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF 
 
 TRAVEL, RESIDENCE, AND EXPERIENCE 
 
 IN THE 
 
 ROMAN STATES. 
 
 BY 
 
 JOSEPH POWELL, Z.P. 
 
 Anima mia, anima mia, 
 Ama Dio e tira via. 
 
 Motto of Julian Watts-BusseU. 
 
 LONDON: 
 R. WASHBOURNE, 18a, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 187L 
 
 \_The Copyright is Reserved,'] 
 
P6> 
 
 TO THE 
 
 HON. AND VERY REV. MONSIGNOR STONOR, 
 
 THE ENERGETIC, DEVOTED 
 CHIEF CHAPLAIN OF THE ENGLISH-SPEAKING ZOUAVES, 
 
 AS A PROOF OF 
 
 THE SINCERITY OF THE AVRITER'S ATTACHMENT 
 
 TO THE GRAND CAUSE OF 
 
 OUR HOLY FATHER, PIUS IX., 
 
 TO THE ETERNAL CITY, 
 
 AND TO THE PONTIFICAL ZOUAVES. 
 
 2863 
 
SONG OF THE ENGLISH ZOUAVES. 
 
 " Aniraa mia, anima mia, 
 Ama Dio e tira via." 
 
 Saint George and old England for ever ! 
 
 Once more her sons arm for the fight, 
 
 With the cross on their breasts, to do battle 
 
 For God, Holy Church, and the right. 
 
 Twine your swords with the palm branch, brave comrades, 
 
 For as Pilgrims we march forth to-day ; — 
 
 Love God, O my soul, love Him only, 
 
 And then with light heart go thy way. 
 
 We come from the blue shores of England, 
 From the mountains of Scotia we come. 
 From the green, faithful island of Erin, — 
 Far, far, from our wild northern home. 
 Place Saint Andrew's red cross in your bonnets. 
 Saint Patrick's green shamrock display ; — 
 Love God, O my soul, love Him only. 
 And then with light heart go thy way. 
 
 Dishonour our swords shall not tarnish. 
 We draw them for Rome and the Pope ; 
 Victors still, whether li^dng or dying. 
 For the Martyr's bright crown is our hope ; 
 If 'tis sweet for our country to perish. 
 Sweeter far for the cause of to-day ; — 
 Love God, my soul, love Him only. 
 And then with light heart go thy way. 
 
 Though the odds be against us, what matter ? 
 While God and Our Lady look down. 
 And the Saints of our country are near us. 
 And Angels are holding the crown. 
 March, march to the combat and fear not, 
 A light round our weapons will play ; — 
 Love God, O my soul, love Him only, 
 And then with light heart go thy way. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 These pages are principally the 'work of an old 
 Zouave, and are founded on letters and notes written 
 in Rome and the Pontifical States. These suggested 
 to me the idea which has resulted in the present 
 book ; at the same time I am greatly indebted to 
 W. C. Robinson, Esq., Z.P., both for the stimulus he 
 has given me to carry out my idea, and for the valu- 
 able and interesting matter he has generously sent 
 me, and which I have used in these pages, on " Life 
 in Detachment at Bolsena," "Visit to Subiaco," 
 " Siege of Rome," and the following chapter. I 
 am also much indebted to Captain De la Hoyde, for 
 his kindness in furnishing me with notes on the 
 early history of the Corps, and the later events in 
 connection with it. Next, I must acknowledge my 
 obHgations to the ' Tablet ' for much valuable in- 
 formation on the events and victories of 1867, related 
 in the first four chapters. Again, "Rome, its 
 Churches," by Rev. W. H. Neligan, M.A., has been 
 largely quoted in reference to the churches and 
 monuments mentioned. 
 
X . Preface. 
 
 Some other works made use of will be mentioned 
 in notes. I am indebted to " Personal Becollections 
 of Eome/' by W. J. Jacob, Esq., Z.P., for a description 
 of the opening of the Vatican Council, and to some 
 other kind friends for assistance. 
 
 The title has been chosen as the most appropriate 
 to the idea which originated the work, and because I 
 belonged for two years to the Corps ; but the period 
 of the principal events related extends over upwards 
 of three years. 
 
 Although the principal part of the book will be 
 found to refer to the Zouaves, yet many subjects 
 incidental to this Corps, and to a residence in Rome 
 and the Roman States, have been introduced. As 
 the work may be considered one of travel and ex- 
 perience related in letters and notes, it is necessarily 
 somewhat fragmentary in its character ; but this 
 feature will, I hope, meet with indulgence at the 
 hands of its readers, who may be asked to pardon 
 the faults of a novice, now appearing in print for the 
 first time. 
 
 Much care has been taken to compare dates, narra- 
 tives, and statements of fact, and I trust that those 
 given will be found generally correct. The miles 
 spoken of are Roman — a Roman mile consists of 1000 
 paces, or 1611 English yards — thus twelve Roman 
 miles are nearly equal to eleven English. 
 
 To the Corps to which I had the honour to belong, 
 I beg to submit this work, hoping that it will meet 
 with approval at the hands of my comrades in arms, 
 and that the recital of some of the heroic deeds which 
 
Preface. xi 
 
 have so much adorned the history of the Zouaves, 
 may not be unacceptable to the general body, and 
 particularly to its English and Irish members. 
 
 The many friends and well-wishers of the Corps 
 will, I hope, feel an interest in the details here sub- 
 mitted to them. ^ 
 
 To the general public I hope that the work may 
 prove to be interesting, first, because the subject of 
 the Pontifical Zouaves lays claim to a general interest 
 on account of the courage and heroism they have 
 displayed, not only in the Roman States, but also 
 during the late disastrous war in France, where they 
 have singularly proved their real discipline and 
 organisation. Secondly, because the variety of sub- 
 jects introduced may have an interest for many 
 classes of readers. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGK 
 
 I. ORIGIN AND EARLY ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE CORPS 
 
 — ^VICTORIES OF 1867 . . . .1 
 
 II. SECRET SOCIETIES OF THE CONTINENT — CRITICAL 
 STATE OF ROME — COURAGE OF AN IRISHMAN — 
 CAPTAIN DE LA HOYDE ON MENTANA . .15 
 
 ni. GENERAL KANZLER'S REPORT OF THE BATTLE OF 
 
 MENTANA ADDRESSED TO THE POPE . . 25 
 
 IV. FRENCH OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE BATTLE— MGR. 
 DUPANLOUP ON THE VICTORIES— DE QUELEN AND 
 DUFOURNEL — EVIDENCE OF THE DISPOSITIONS OF 
 THE ROMANS — CARDINAL DONNET ON THE POPE 
 — HEROISM OF A LADY . . . .35 
 
 V. JOURNEY TO R03IE — ENGAGEMENT IN THE ZOUAVES 
 — LIFE IN THE DEPOT — EASTER IN ROME — DISCI- 
 PLINE OF THE CORPS . . . .45 
 
 VI. FEAST OF CORPUS CHRISTI — AT MONTE ROTONDO 
 — PROMENADE TO MONTE LIBRETTI — LIFE IN THE 
 COMPANY AT CECCANO — PIPERNO . .57 
 
 VIL ^LAJEICH TO THE CAMP OF ANNIBAL — ROCCA DI 
 
 PAPA — LIFE IN CAlkIP — LAKE NEMI . .64: 
 
 VIII. RETURN TO ROME — LIFE AT THE SORA — MONTI 
 
 AND TOGNETTI . . . . .72 
 
 IX. IN HOSPITAL — LIFE IN ROME AT THE CASERlilA 
 
 DEL GESU — THE VATICAN— ST. PETER'S . .81 
 
 X. SANTA SABINA — ^FEAST OF ST. JOSEPH — JUBILEE OF 
 
 THE HOLY FATHER— ST. GEORGE . 91 
 
xiv Contents. 
 
 CHAPTEn PAOB 
 
 XI. MARCH TO MONTEFIASCONE — LAGO DI VICO— BEAU- 
 TIFUL SCENERY — FEAST OF SS. PETER AND PAUL 
 IN ROME — LIFE AT MONTEFIASCONE . . 99 
 
 XII. THEORY — BOLSENA AND THE MIRACLE OF THE MOST 
 HOLY SACRAMENT — ACQUAPENDENTE — FEAST OF 
 SANTA CHRISTINA — LIFE IN DETACHMENT AT 
 BOLSENA . . . . . .108 
 
 XIII. FEAST OF ST. ROSE AT VITERBO — BOATING EXCUR- 
 
 SION ON LAKE BOLSENA — EXCURSION TO ORTE, 
 CIVITA CASTELLANA, SORIANO . . .119 
 
 XIV. RETURN TO ROME — AT SAN MICHELE — TARGET 
 
 FIRING ...... 125 
 
 XV. THE OPENING OF THE COUNCIL OF THE VATICAN. 132 
 XVI. CHRISTMAS — PASTORAL MUSIC — A FEW WORDS 
 ABOUT LEAVING THE CORPS — SANT' ANDREA 
 DELLA VALLE — CONFESSION IN ST. PETER'S . 141 
 
 XVI*. THE "week" in THE ZOUAVES — PARADE — COR- 
 PORAL OF THE WEEK — THE EXHIBITION OF 
 CHRISTIAN ART — SANT' ONOFRIO — SANTA PUDEN- 
 TIANA AND SANTA PRASSEDE — PRAETORIAN CAMP 146 
 XVII. LIFE AT SANTA GALLA AS CORPORAL — CHURCH OF 
 SAN MARTINO AI MONTI — OF SANT' AGNESE — 
 "VERSEMENT" . . . . . -156 
 
 XVm. DIARY DURING HOLY WEEK — BASILICA OF ST. 
 
 JOHN LATERAN — EASTER FESTIVITIES . .161 
 
 XIX. THE VIA APPIA, COLUMBARIA, AND CATACOMBS . 170 
 XX. VISIT TO TIVOLI . . . . .181 
 
 XXI. DIARY CONTINUED— BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN— SANTA 
 
 CROCE — CONGE . . . . .190 
 
 XXII. THE COLISEUM — CHURCHES ON THE CGELIAN, ETC. 
 — THE CAPITOL — ARA CCELI — ROMAN FORUM — 
 ARCH OF TITUS — ST. SEBASTIAN . .194 
 
 XXIII. THEPANTHEON— COLUMNS— OBELISKS— AQUEDUCTS 208 
 XXrV. THE KIRCHERIAN MUSEUM — CHURCHES OF S. MARIA 
 IN TRASTEVERE, SAN PIETRO IN MONTORIO, AND 
 THE GESU— CAMPO SANTO AND TOMB OF JULIAN 
 WATTS-RUSSELL . . . . .215 
 
Contents. xv 
 
 CHAPTER rAOB 
 
 XXV. REMARKS ON THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF PLACES 
 
 VISITED NEAR ROME .... 222 
 
 XXVI. RETURN TO ENGLAND— VOYACxE— MARSEILLES — 
 
 PARIS— BOULOGNE — LONDON, ETC. . . 232 
 
 XXVIT. THE ZOUAVES AT MONTEFIASCONE — THE MASTERLY 
 
 RETREAT OF LIEUT. -COLONEL DE CHARETTE . 243 
 
 XXVIIL EVENTS OF SEPTEMBER, 1870 — DIARY OF A 
 ZOUAVE OFFICER DURING THE SIEGE OF ROME 
 — COMBAT OF SERGEANT SHEE WITH ITALIAN 
 LANCERS — THE CAPITULATION — A LADY UNDER 
 FIRE — ASSASSINATION OF A ZOUAVE OFFICER — , 
 — BRAVE CONDUCT OF GENTLEMEN RETURNING TO 
 THE CORPS ..... 254 
 
 XXIX. THE SIEGE FROM ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW — FARE- 
 WELL OF THE ZOUAVES TO THE HOLY FATHER 
 — THEIR RETURN HOME — ITALIAN SOLDIERS AND 
 IRRELIGION IN THE ITALIAN ARMY . . 270 
 
 XXX. VISITORS TO ROME— A SAD INCIDENT — ORGANISA- 
 TION AND DISCIPLINE .... 283 
 
 XXXL THE USURPATION — THE POPE A PRISONER — FRANCE 
 — LIBERTY, EQUALITY, FRATERNITY, CONSOLA- 
 TION, HEROISM— CONCLUSION . . 293 
 
EER^TA. 
 
 Page 72, chapter line, /or "Toqnetti" read " Tognetti." 
 „ 110, line 32, Jor "in charming country'' read "in a charming 
 
 country." 
 „ 132, line 26, for " 2000 bishops " read " upwards of 800 bishops." 
 ,, 200, ,, 12, /or " Cominius" reac? " Cominus." 
 „ 201, „ 28, /or "Sybil" reac^" Sibyl." 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ROCKY CHASM NEAR ACQUAPENDENTE . FrOUtispiece 
 
 BAGNOREA page 110 
 
 LAKE OF BOLSENA „ 120 
 
 TIVOLI — LE CASCATELLE « 184* 
 
The Author has received for his work the warmest encourage- 
 ment and best wishes of the Hon. and Very Rev. Mgr. Stonor, 
 of the Earl of Denbigh, and of Major W. F. Gordon. He also 
 begs to acknowledge, with thanks, the support of the distin- 
 guished names which follow : — 
 
 Most Rev. the Lord Archbishop of Westminster. 
 
 Most Rev. the Lord Archbishop of Cashel. 
 
 Hon. and Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Clifton. 
 
 Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Brisbane. 
 
 Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Northampton. 
 
 Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Southwark. 
 
 Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Rose. 
 
 Right Hon. the Lord Herri es. 
 
 Right Hon. the Lady Camoys. 
 
 Right Hon. the Lord Petre. 
 
 Very Rev. Dr. Northcote. 
 
 Very Rev. Dr. Williams, Prior Park. 
 
 Very Rev. Dr. Kirner. 
 
 Very Rev. Father E. I. Purbrick, Stonyhurst College. 
 
 Very Rev. F. Crane, Provincial O.S.A., Dublin. 
 
 Very Rev. Rector, Clongowes Wood College, Kildare. 
 
 Very Rev. Rector, S. Stanislaus' College, Tullamore. 
 
 Very Rev. Rector, Carlow College, Ireland. 
 
 Very Rev. President, S. Vincent's College, Castleknock, Dublin. 
 
 Very Rev. Canon Moore, Sedgley Park. 
 
 Very Rev. Father Prior, Woodchester, Stroud. 
 
 Very Rev. F. Peter Mackey, Woodchester. 
 
 Very Rev. F. Gregory Kelly, O.P. 
 
 Rev. Father J. Henry Bartlett, O.P. 
 
 Rev. Mother, S. Benedict's Convent, Colwich, 
 
 Rev. Mother, Convent of Mercy, Handsworth. 
 
 Rev. Mother, Convent of Mercy, Swinford, Co. Galway. 
 
 Rev. Mother, Convent of Mercy, BaUinrobe, Mayo. 
 
 Rev. Mother, S. Augustine's Priory, Newton Abbot. 
 
 Rev. E. R. Martin. 
 
 Rev. J. Canty. 
 
 Rev. A. B. Gurdon. 
 
 Rev. S. W. Allen. 
 
 Rev. C. Robinson, O.S.C. 
 
 Rev. J. P. Brady. 
 
 Rev. C. Bowen. 
 
 Rev. C. Macauley, Maynooth College. 
 
 Rev. Dean Hughes, Maynooth Col- 
 lege. 
 
 Rev. T. Seddon. 
 
 Rev. F. Loughnan, Clifton. 
 
 Rev. F. Stanfield, Hertford. 
 
 Rev. G. Akers. 
 
 Rev. Father W. Lockhart. 
 
 Very Rev. Canon Neve, Taunton. 
 
 Rev. Father Faure, Leicester Square. 
 
 Rev. Father J. E. Bowden, Cong. 
 Orat. 
 
 Rev. C. Collingridge. 
 
 Rev. P. Doyle, Dublin. 
 
 Rev. W. B. Scruton. 
 
 Rev. Father W. Water worth, S.J. 
 
 Rev Father M. Watts-Russell. 
 
 Rev. F. Daniel, Dublin. 
 
 Rev. F. Byrne. 
 
 Rev. C. J. Moncrieff Smith. 
 
 Rev. J. Flanagan, Dublin. 
 
 Rev. J. M. Donnell. 
 
 Rev. A. Russell. 
 
 Rev. M. Coxon. 
 
 Rev. A. Peter. 
 
 Rev. Father Coffey, Dublin. 
 
 Sir G. Bowyer, Bart. 
 
 Sir C. Clifford, Bart. 
 
 Lady Pollen. 
 
 Captain D'Arcy. 
 
 Captain De la Hoyde, 
 
Mrs. Leigh, Woodchester Park. 
 
 Mrs. Plummer, Woodchester. 
 
 Keyes O'Clery, Esq. 
 
 John G. Kenyon, Esq. 
 
 Joseph S. Hansom, Esq. 
 
 J. R. W. Lloyd, Esq., K.S.G. 
 
 C. C. Woodward, Esq. 
 Arthur Coombs, Esq. 
 Alfred F. Blount, Esq. 
 Fauconherg De Selby, Esq. 
 Alexander Fletcher, Esq. 
 A. E. Saraiva, Esq. 
 
 Thomas Fowler, Esq., Waterford. 
 
 J. F. Maguire, Esq., M.P. 
 
 J. T. Power, Esq., M.P. 
 
 F. J. Morgan, Esq, 
 
 Mrs. Robinson. 
 
 W. C. Robinson, Esq., Z.P. 
 
 R. Greenhalgh, Esq. 
 
 A. C. Scoles, Esq. 
 
 W. J. Jacob, Esq., Z.P. 
 
 Gr. Collingridge, Esq., Z.P. 
 
 J. Connolly, Esq. 
 
 D. Shee, Esq., Z.P. 
 P. Vassar Esq., Z.P. 
 W. T. Raymond, Esq. 
 
 E. Y. Thornton, Esq., Z.P. 
 Mr. D. Ricks, Z.P. 
 
 Mr. H. B. Train, Z.P. 
 
 Mr. B. Holtham, Z.P. 
 
 Mr. H. Weetman, Z.P. 
 
 Mrs. Elder. 
 
 Mr. C. Atkins, Z.P. 
 
 The Lady Manager, S. James' Re- 
 gistry, Manchester Square. 
 
 R. C. Hanrott, Esq. 
 
 Miss Greame. 
 
 Donat Sampson, Esq. 
 
 Mrs. James. 
 
 Mrs. Newsham, Darlington. 
 
 Mrs. Coulston. 
 
 Mr. Gr. G. Bartlett. 
 
 Mr. T. Flannery. 
 
 John Hanly, Esq., Churchtown. 
 
 Alexander Drake, Esq., J.P., Rath- 
 vale. 
 
 Miss Annie White. 
 
 Miss Monks. 
 Mrs. Atkins, Atherstone. 
 Miss Astley. 
 Mr. M. Beakey. 
 W. E. J. Yavasour, Esq. 
 James Knill, Esq., M.D. 
 Mr. J. Macken, Dublin. 
 Mr. C. Parker. 
 Miss Bayliss. 
 Mrs. Allen. 
 
 J. Lennox Power, Esq., 84th Regi- 
 ment. 
 
 F. M. Spaight, Esq. 
 Mr. J. ArkeU. 
 Miss ArkeU. 
 
 Mrs. ArkeU, Whelford. 
 
 Mrs. T. ArkeU, Whelford. 
 
 Mrs. ArkeU, Loughborough. 
 
 Mr. W. ArkeU. 
 
 Mr. R. A. lies. 
 
 Mrs. W. ArkeU, frogmore Farm. 
 
 Mrs. Wakefield. 
 
 Mrs. Dancey. 
 
 Mrs. Gibbs. 
 
 Mr. Whitty. 
 
 Mrs. Townley. 
 
 Mrs. Alcock. 
 
 Mr. S. Hughes, Liverpool. 
 
 The Misses Hes, Fairford. 
 
 Mrs. Councer, Cheltenham. 
 
 Mrs. Sargent. 
 
 P. Burchett, Esq. 
 
 G. Keogh, Esq. 
 M. Brophy, Esq. 
 F. Bowler, Esq. 
 John Kidd, Esq. 
 Mr. Hooker. 
 Mrs. Smith. 
 Mrs. Chard. 
 Mrs. Moore. 
 Mr. J. Bratt. 
 
 Mrs. W. Boardman. 
 Mr. Beeck. 
 Mr. H. Phipp. 
 Mr. McCarthy. 
 
 And other kind friends, whose 
 names are withheld at their desire. 
 
TWO YEARS IN THE POJsTIFlCAL ZOUAVES. 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 ORIGIN AND EARLY ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE CORPS — 
 VICTORIES OF 1867. 
 
 As this is not intended to be a history of the corps but the 
 relation only of my own experience in connection with it, a 
 lengthened description of its origin and early achievements 
 is unnecessary, nor will any elaborate eulogium of many 
 great names connected with it be attempted. I will content 
 myself at present by saying that I esteem it a great honour 
 to have belonged to a corps which has acted with so much 
 real heroism in rallying round the throne of the great 
 Pontiff, Pius IX., in defence of the rights of the oldest sove- 
 reignty in Europe, which was formed under that great 
 general De Lamorici^re, and contains in its annals the names 
 of such men as Gu^rin, Guillemin, De Quelen, the Dufour- 
 nels, De Vaux, Julian Watts-Eussell, and Collingridge. 
 
 I presume that a few introductory chapters descriptive of 
 the victories and events which have shed so much lustre 
 and renown on the annals of the corps, wiU not be deemed 
 out of place before I commence my own narrative. 
 
 The Pontifical Zouaves were originated by the heroic 
 De Lamoriciere in 1860, and were known at first as " Tirail- 
 leurs Franco-Beiges," the corps being composed principally 
 of French and Flemish gentlemen of good family and others, 
 ■who, following the noble example of their general, ranged 
 
 1 
 
2 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 themselves on the side of religion and right, to do battle 
 against injustice, represented by the invading forces of 
 Victor Emmanuel — who had already taken forcible posses- 
 sion of a portion of the States of the Church. Count Major 
 de Becdelievre, an old African and Crimean veteran, was 
 appointed to command the Franco-Beiges, and under him 
 the little battalion, about two hundred and fifty strong, was 
 organised at the Camp of Terni, and took part in the battle 
 of Castel Fidardo on September 18, 1860. 
 
 General De Lamoriciere was there betrayed by false pro- 
 mises, and although the Franco-Beiges fought desperately 
 and carried at the point of the bayonet the farm-house of 
 Le Crocette and the hill beyond it, they were overwhelmed 
 by numbers, and had the mortification of seeing themselves 
 treacherously fired upon by some of the Italians on their 
 own side. Almost every third man, it is said, was struck. 
 De Cbarette received two wounds. Captain Guelton was 
 killed, Lieut. Moncuit lost his left arm, the celebrated 
 Gu^rin was mortally wounded, and Corporal Arthur Guil- 
 lemin received a bayonet thrust. The result of the unequal 
 contest is well known; but it is said the victor, General 
 Cialdini, declared that, had all the Pontifical troops fought 
 as well as the Franco-Beiges, the fortune of the day would 
 have been reversed, and this notwithstanding that his own 
 forces outnumbered the Pontifical army in the proportion of 
 nearly ten to one. 
 
 On the 1st January, 1861, the corps was reorganised by 
 Count de Becdelievre, and it received, through his exertions, 
 the picturesque uniform of grey with red facings and 
 cincture, and the name of the " Zouaves Pontificaux." 
 
 A "smart and successful service". was effected by Colonel 
 de Becdelievre during the same month; he surprised and 
 took prisoners the Italian force which had posted itself at 
 Correse, in the Comarca and Patrimony of St. Peter. Cor- 
 rese is an important point at the junction of the two roads 
 of Terni and Rieti, and the only passage from the Comarca 
 into Sabinum. " The Pontifical Zouaves, favoured by the 
 night, attacked the Sardinian volunteers at Correse. Two 
 
T'li'o YciLvs la the Pontificcd Zouaves. 3 
 
 Sardinians were killed and six wounded, fifty were made 
 prisoners, and were conveyed to-day to Eome."^ 
 
 Colonel de Becdelievre resigned the command of the corps 
 about Easter, 1866, and Lieut.-Col. Allet, an old Swiss 
 officer, was appointed its chief, De Chare tte being major. 
 
 In 1862 Lieut. Mousty, commanding an advanced post 
 of sixteen Zouaves, drove back an Italian company, which 
 attempted to violate the frontier on the Neapolitan side. 
 In December, 1865, two new companies and a company of 
 depot were added to the little regiment. Brigandage became 
 rife in the provinces of Frosinone, and particularly in the 
 Volscian hiUs, and Sezze, Piperno, and Prossedi, and other 
 towns were occupied by detachments, and part of the regi- 
 ment was employed during the spring and summer of 1866 
 in constant hunting after the brigands. The most remark- 
 able combat took place on November 22nd on Monte Lupino, 
 one of the Yolscians. Several bands, amounting altogether 
 to sixty brigands, had beaten three detachments of Swiss 
 Carbineers, when finally a detachment of twenty-seven 
 Zouaves under Captain Adeodatus Dufournel and Lieut. De 
 Couessin, fought them for four hours, and put them to flight. 
 
 On the 1st January, 1867, the Zouaves were constituted 
 a regiment of two battalions, of six companies each ; Colonel 
 Allet commanded, the Baron de Charette being Lieut.- 
 Colonel, Vicomte de Lambilly and Baron de Troussures, 
 Chefs de Bataillon. During the summer of this year several 
 Englishmen joined the corps, which now included in its 
 rolls two Irish officers, and men of good position and rank 
 from many different countries. 
 
 In the month of August the cholera broke out in the 
 Eternal City. Albano had always as yet been free from this 
 epidemic, and certain strong-minded individuals there 
 mocked at the affliction of Rome, naming dishes of fruit of 
 the three colours, red, white, and green, combined, inatto di 
 colera, «fcc., and tried to excite the people against the coming 
 of a proposed detachment of Zouaves, saying that they 
 would bring the infection. The detachment was delayed, 
 * Tablet, January, 1861. 
 
 1—2 
 
4 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 as part of the company had to be sent to Velletri, where 
 some disturbances had arisen. "When the other part of this 
 company were on the march to Albano they met crowds of 
 fugitives ; the cholera had broken out the night before. The 
 visitation was sudden and awful, and about eighty persons 
 are said to have died the first night ; the authorities fled, 
 the natives in crowds took to the woods. The neighbouring 
 town of L'Ariccia formed a cordon of its inhabitants on the 
 approaches, threatening to shoot any fugitives who attempted 
 to enter it. Lieut, de Resimond made an appeal to the 
 good will of his Zouaves, and every one of the forty re- 
 sponded to it : he himself was the first to carry off* a dead 
 body. The Zouaves were for two days the only nurses^ 
 doctors, or gravediggers of the town; they organised the 
 burial service as best they could. Three men were victims 
 of their charity. 
 
 Cardinal Altieri, the Bishop, came out at once with 
 a staff* of doctors, Sisters of Charity, and infirmarians ; he 
 also died a victim to his zeal. The royal family of Naples 
 were there in villegiatura ; the Queen Dowager and Don 
 Gennaro, her youngest son, died of the epidemic; their fune- 
 ral was attended by Zouaves, and their remains carried to 
 the tomb by officers, sergeants, and others. Lieut.-Colonel 
 de Charette came out several times to encourage his men. 
 In Rome the cholera made itself severely felt amongst the 
 troops ; every Sunday the officers, headed by the colonel, 
 visited the hospital, and this had a good eff*ect on the morale 
 of the sick. Albano suff*ered fearfully for about three weeks, 
 after which the mortality decreased ; the inhabitants, num- 
 bering about nine or ten thousand souls, were decimated, a 
 number estimated from six hundred to eight hundred having 
 died. Lieut, de Resimond was decorated with the Cross of 
 Pius IX., and that of Francis I. of the first class, by the 
 King of Naples. Several others were also decorated by the 
 Holy Father and the King, both of whom thus recognised 
 the heroic conduct of the Zouaves at this trying emergency, 
 the privates receiving gold medals of bene "tnerenti. 
 
 In the end of September, and commencement of Octo- 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 5 
 
 ber 1867, began the Garibaldian invasion of the Pontifical 
 States, which was connived at, more or less openly, by the 
 Italian Government, as it is certain that the latter permitted 
 many of its regular soldiers to enter the Garibaldian army. 
 
 The Garibaldians entered the States at four points, viz., 
 Grotta San Stefano, on September 29th ; Acquapendente, 
 Canino, and Valentano on September 30th. The sixteen 
 Pontifical gendarmes, who occupied Acquapendente, retired 
 before the superior force of the enemy, towards Montefias- 
 cone, and the Garibaldians advanced, and took possession of 
 the town of Bagnorea, which is a strong position, on a rocky 
 height surrounded by deep defiles. I copy the following 
 authentic account of the action of recovering Bagnorea, from 
 the Tablet of October 2Gth, 1867. 
 
 " Here they — the Garibaldians — were attacked on Octo- 
 ber 3rd, by a detachment of the Papal forces, who were 
 repulsed, being unable with their numerical inferiority to 
 make head against the enemy. But General de Courten 
 arrived from Rome with two pieces of artillery and twenty 
 horses, and setting out from Montefiascone at seven a.m., on 
 October 5th, with 170 Zouaves and 150 Romans of the line, 
 attacked Bagnorea at eleven a.m." 
 
 A letter from a Pontifical Zouave to his sister, dated Bag- 
 norea, October 6th, says : — " On receiving the order to attack, 
 we advanced at the j^as gymnastique. The enemy occupied 
 the heights round the town, but retired before our skir- 
 mishers and abandoned the position. We had scarcely gained 
 the heights when a shower of balls rained upon us. The 
 Garibaldians were under shelter in the vineyards, and we 
 were exposed ; so, crying ' Vive Pie IX. ! En avant les 
 Zouaves ! A la Baionette !' we charged and dislodged them> 
 and got among the vineyards under the ramparts. The Ga- 
 ribaldians took refuge in a convent, and kept up a sharp fire 
 on us from the windows and from the clock tower. We 
 attacked the gate with the bvitt-ends of our muskets, our 
 lieutenant, though wounded in the arm, dealing formidable 
 one-handed blows with an axe. As soon as the gate was 
 forced we rushed in with levelled bayonets. The Garibal- 
 
6 Tvjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 dians threw down their arms and surrendered. We took fifty- 
 six of them, and several officers in the convent. As they still 
 held the town, our commander had the cannon pointed at 
 the gate. We got in. The enemy fled. The inhabitants 
 cried, ' Viva Pio Nono ! ' ' Evvivano i Zuavi ! ' White hand- 
 kerchiefs waved from the windows, and the doors were all 
 thrown open. They clasped us in their arms and called us 
 their liberators. The women wept for joy and gave thanks 
 to the Madonna, The action had lasted four hours, and they 
 had not ceased praying for our victory. The Garibaldians 
 had thirty killed and fifty wounded. We made 130 prisoners, 
 They were 708 strong ; we were only 340. If you knew the 
 sacrileges they had committed in the Benedictine convent 1 
 They smashed the altars, flung down the sacred relics, and 
 stabbed at the sacred images with their bayonets. They 
 stole two ciboriums, sacked the seminary, and burned the 
 town registers and the Papal arms. Pray for me. If the 
 powers do not intervene, some of us will be in heaven before 
 the year is out. We shall be glad to give our blood for the 
 Holy Father and the Church." 
 
 On October 11th a detachment left Subiaco to explore 
 the neighbourhood of Cervara and Camerata. A strong band 
 of Garibaldians, profiting by their absence, came down from 
 the mountains and occupied the town. The few gendarmes 
 left there were obliged to fly. Lieutenant-Colonel de 
 Charette, on being informed of what had passed, diverged 
 from his march on Nerola and moved U230n Subiaco ; but 
 before his arrival, the detachment, which had left in the 
 morning, had returned, and an obstinate engagement ensued 
 in the town. 
 
 The Garibaldians were completely beaten, fifteen pri- 
 soners were taken, several were wounded, and three were 
 killed, among them one Emilio Bressio, of Milan, their com- 
 mander. 
 
 A correspondent of Z' Univers, gives the following account 
 of the action at Monte Libretti, on the 13th of October: — 
 
 " Monte Libretti is a fortified village with gates. — (Its 
 natural position flanked on either side by ravines is a strong 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 7 
 
 one.) Some two hundred yards from the gate is a wide and 
 deep ditch, crossed by a stone bridge. It was guarded, and 
 the ninety Zouaves commanded by Lieutenants Guillemin 
 and de Quelen received the enemy's fire at this point and 
 carried the bridge in an instant. They took here ten pri- 
 soners, and rapidly ascending the slope towards the gate 
 received the fire of three hundred Garibaldians concealed 
 amongst the vines to the right and left of the road. Charg- 
 ing them with the bayonet, the Zouaves dislodged them and 
 entered the village, but the fire in the streets from the win- 
 dows was too hot, and they had to retreat to the gate, where 
 an obstinate fight took place. The Garibaldian Major Faseri 
 and his aide-de-camp animated their men, who vastly out- 
 numbered the Pontificals ; both of them were wounded and 
 dismounted. 
 
 " The brave Zouave, Lieutenant Arthur Guillemin, was 
 one of the first killed at the gate of Monte Libretti. Ser- 
 geant de la Bergassiere received a bullet in his arm, another 
 bullet carried off his hepi, which he replaced by the red and 
 green hepi of the fallen Garibaldian Major. A Zouave from 
 Marseilles had a wound in the head, a bullet in each ^arm, 
 and lost two fingers of the right hand. He had slain several 
 of the enemy before he retired from the front. In the hos- 
 pital he said next day, ' I don't understand these Garibal- 
 dians. At the first ball they drop. I have had four, and 
 here I am.' An English corporal named Collingridge per- 
 formed prodigies of valour. He was killed after being seen 
 with his back to the wall defending himself desperately 
 against six Garibaldians. His brother joined the Zouaves 
 the week before. A Belgian corporal (Mercier, from Namur) 
 is named as having distinguished himself extraordinarily. 
 He is among the wounded. A Roman bugler, called Mimi 
 by his comrades,, had one hand shattered by a ball ; he con- 
 tinued throughout to sound the charge, holding his bugle in 
 the other hand. Sergeant-Major Bach, a German Swiss, was 
 particularly conspicuous. He was bathed in blood, but it 
 was the blood of the enemy. He himself did not receive a 
 scratch. 
 
8 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 "The Dutchman De Yonghe, a gigantic Hercules, was slain 
 after killing fourteen Garibaldians. Bareheaded, and with his 
 uniform torn to ribbons, he was seen dealing fearful blows 
 with the butt-end of his musket, until, breathless with fatigue, 
 though unwounded, he fell upon his knees and was pierced 
 by a dozen bayonets. Two other Dutch Zouaves, brothers, 
 were also slain. The Sous-Lieutenant de Quelen fought till 
 the last, in worthy emulation of his friend and brother officer 
 Guillemin. He was killed at the end of the action. The fight 
 began at half-past five p.m., and at eight p.m. the Zouaves still 
 held their ground in front of the gate. The night was beauti- 
 fully calm, and a full moon lit the scene of so much valour. 
 
 " At eight p.m., the Garibaldians inside the village closed 
 the gate, leaving a number of their comrades outside who 
 were slain by the Zouaves under command of Sergeant-Major 
 Bach, who kept his ground until four a.m. next day, when, 
 just as he was about to retreat upon Monte Maggiore with 
 his prisoners and wounded, the inhabitants opened the gate, 
 announcing that the Garibaldians had retreated through the 
 opposite gate making for Nerola." 
 
 The accounts of the number of the opposing forces in the 
 engagement of Monte Libretti, do not all agree in every 
 particular, but all concur in stating that the Garibaldians 
 were in immensely superior strength to the Zouaves ; the 
 numbers I have seen stated in two different quarters, repre- 
 sent the Garibaldians to have had 1200 men, while the 
 Zouaves had only ninety men, or one small company. 
 
 It will have been noticed from the foreo-oinoj narration, 
 that although the ninety Zouaves did not succeed at once 
 in dislodging twelve hundred Garibaldians from a strong- 
 position, yet it was certainly a victory gccined by the Zouaves, 
 as, the Garibaldians having stolen off under cover of the 
 night, the field of battle and the position both remained in 
 the possession of the Pontifical troops. This engagement and 
 victory, having thus been won against such fearful odds as 
 thirteen to one, is worthy of being ranked by the side of the 
 most glorious achievements recorded in history, for although 
 the engagement may not have been so very important in 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 9 
 
 its immediate results, — on account of the small number of 
 men engaged on both sides, — yet it is not always on 
 account of its results that an achievement is immortalised 
 — witness the devotion to death of Leonidas, and three 
 hundred Spartans, at the pass of Thermopylae — ^but it is 
 heroism and valour which cause a brilliant action to shine 
 with lustre, and to adorn, in vivid colouring, the page of 
 history. 
 
 On reading the authentic accounts given above, who will 
 be found to deny that the Zouaves displayed the greatest 
 heroism, — both their commanding ojfficers, one after the other, 
 falling at the head of their company, others, like De Yonghe 
 and CoUingridge, fighting like lions, till they fell literally 
 exhausted with fatigue ? 
 
 The Pontifical gendarmes also did their duty, and showed 
 their fidelity to their Sovereign, as may be seen from the 
 following report of the fighting at Vallecorsa, copied from 
 the Roman correspondent of the Tablet : — " Vallecorsa was 
 -attacked on Tuesday by a band of Garibaldians, but the 
 gendarmes behaved nobly and drove them back, taking sixty- 
 six prisoners, among whom were their commanding officer 
 and four subalterns. Ten were killed, while two gendarmes 
 fell mortally wounded." 
 
 Here follow a few other interesting particulars : — " The 
 bands — of Garibaldians — are entirely composed of Milanese, 
 Florentines, Eomagnoli, Marchezziani, and a very few Roman 
 emigrants. Not a single inhabitant of the country has joined, 
 and although no excesses of the kind that took place at Bag- 
 norea — these have been before related — have occurred at 
 Nerola or Monte Libretti, the people do not disguise their 
 dislike of the invaders, nor do the chiefs of the bands pre- 
 tend that they have any support from the country itself." 
 
 The assertions just made by the correspondent, of the dis- 
 positions of the Holy Father's subjects, are fully borne out 
 by authentic accounts from every quarter, of which sufficient 
 proof will be here given, in General Kanzler's official report 
 of the entry into Monte Rotondo after the battle of Men- 
 tana, by letters from different persons quoted, and also by 
 
10 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 the remarkable fact, that the Garibaldian and Mazzinian 
 revolutionists — notwithstanding their putting in motion all 
 the machinery of the secret societies — signally failed in their 
 efforts to excite a rising within the walls of Rome during, 
 the crisis of the Garibaldian raids. 
 
 We gather the following details of the engagement at 
 Nerola from the same source as the last — the correspondent 
 being an eye-witness of the victory : — 
 
 "The column of Colonel de Charette was already in move- 
 ment from Monte Rotondo on the Garibaldian post, when 
 about eleven o'clock we observed an unusual excitement 
 among the Garibaldians. Their out-sentries were withdrawn,, 
 and their forces concentrated in the fortress. The bugles 
 sounded to arm a few moments later, and through the yellow- 
 ing woods to the left of the position we distinguished clearly 
 the flash of the Zouave bayonets, the gay uniform of the 
 Antibes Legion, and the oxen dragging the battery of 
 artillery under M. de Quatrebarbes, which was to help 
 the assault ..... From the look-out we could easily dis- 
 tinguish the advance. Colonel de Charette and Major de 
 Troussures, his second in command, led the van on horse- 
 back, and the 1st, 2nd, and 5th companies of Zouaves followed 
 and halted on the eminences. The place having been sum- 
 moned and replying by a rifle shot and a shout of ' Viva 
 ritalia !' the Antibes Legion advanced to* the front, and took 
 up a skirmishing position close to the ambulance in which 
 we were placed. The first volley from the Garibaldians 
 was a spirited one, and three of the Legionaries fell des- 
 perately wounded. We threw open the door of the ambu- 
 lance, and three or four young soldiers immediately offered 
 themselves to carry the wounded, draw water, and prepare 
 beds, and a moment or two after the chaplain of the Legion, 
 Mgr. Bastide, the Pere Wylde, S. J., the Dutch and Belgian 
 confessor, and the Peres Legier, O. P. and Daniel came up, 
 and taking their places at the beds of the wounded, com- 
 menced their pious mission. Mgr. Stonor had been there 
 from an early hour in the morning, devoting himself to the 
 care of the wounded of the previous encounters. The Zouave 
 
Two Years in the Pontijical Zouaves. 11 , 
 
 companies soon came up the steep ascent, and then the action 
 became general. I had the great pleasure of seeing several 
 of our English Zouaves rivalling their French and Belgian 
 comrades in courage and elan. Among them were the two 
 brothers Watts-Russell, and the brother of Mr. Collingridge, 
 who has just joined Mr. Gary; and having seen them under 
 a severe fire, I am most happy to be able, as an eye-witness, 
 to testify to their gallantry. The company of Captain Tou- 
 dien scaled the heights from the further side, and kept up a 
 tremendous fire 'en tirailleur' on the fort. MM. de Lusior- 
 nan, de Montbel, de Gatebois, all distinguished themselves 
 in the attack. The 'Batterie Quartrebarbes ' came up at 
 last, and then a tremendous fire opened on the 'Place,' 
 which was returned fiercely by the Garibaldian rifles. 
 
 " A terrible cry of rage broke from the Zouave ranks as a 
 ball struck M. de Charette's horse, and the Colonel fell to the 
 ground. He was, however, up again in a moment, unhui-t^ 
 and waving his sword to M. de Quatrebarbes, whose next 
 shot from the battery brought down the tri-coloured flag 
 from the castle, and amid a burst of cheering, the Zouaves 
 charged up the hill crying " Vive Pie IX. !" their officers 
 leading them on several paces in front of the column, which 
 was formed en tirailleur. Suddenly a white flag was dis- 
 played on the ramparts of the fortress, and we knew that the 
 battle was ours. The Compagnie Tourmelin, with its gallant 
 Belgian sergeant-major, M. Caullier, was the first to arrive, 
 and the terms having been refused, the garrison laid down 
 their anns and surrendered at discretion. 
 
 " The wounded of the Garibaldian party were immediately 
 cared for, and it was most touching to see the repentance 
 and piety with which several of them received the last 
 sacraments at the hands of Monsignore Bastide, and Monsig- 
 nore Stonor. The medical staff behaved admirably on both 
 sides, and were impartial in their care of the wounded of 
 either party, and the Zouave officers ordered that every 
 kindness should be shown to those who had ' cared for our 
 men when in their hands.' " 
 
 The correspondent is here referring to the consideration 
 
12 T'lvo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 shown to the wounded Zouave prisoners carried off from 
 Monte Libretti to Nerola, by the orders of the brothers 
 Garibaldi. 
 
 " Dr. OTlynU;, of the Zouaves, was left in charge of the 
 Zouave ambulance in conjunction with a Garibaldian surgeon. 
 The Antibes Legion alone suffered on this occasion. A young 
 officer, M. Eschmann, was dangerously wounded with three 
 of his men, and one killed. A Pontifical gendarme officer 
 and one of his soldiers were severely wounded. None of the 
 Zouaves received a wound." 
 
 One hundred and thirty-four Garibaldians were taken 
 prisoners, and amongst them was the Garibaldian command- 
 ing officer. Thus far the Garibaldian raid has been a com- 
 plete failure, and the chief organiser. Garibaldi himself, has 
 been deceived in his thinking to drive the Pontifical soldiers 
 before him with the " hutt-ends of their muskets ;" and now 
 his volunteers have completely disappeared for the present 
 from the Pontifical States. 
 
 The victory of Nerola was gained on Oct. 18th, after which 
 the revolutionary bands retreated to the Italian States. 
 
 The correspondent before quoted, writes as follows from 
 Rome, Oct. 27th : 
 
 " . . . . The march — from Nerola to Monte Rotondo — had 
 been a fearful one across the mountains, and it was only 
 possible to bring back part of the wounded, as the carriage- 
 road, by which alone they could be transported, runs through 
 Correse on the Italian territory, and this circumstance 
 necessitated my return the next day with the ambulance to 
 Nerola, no military, not even the surgeons of the corps, being 
 allowed to go in search of our unfortunate soldiers. On 
 reaching Nerola next day, I found that Mr. CoUingridge had 
 died the night following the engagement of Nerola, sur- 
 rounded by his companions-in-arms, and receiving the last 
 consolations of religion at the hands of Father Wylde, with the 
 most heroic sentiments of piety and resignation. He lived 
 a hero and died a martyr to the good cause, and his blood, 
 the first shed for it by an English Catholic, wiU be the seed 
 of a race of manlier and braver defenders of the Church than 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 1 5 
 
 our Catholic youth has yet afforded to Rome. His obsequies^ 
 which I had the honour of assisting at, were performed in 
 the little church of Saint Antonio the next morning, with 
 those of an Antibes soldier who died the same night. 
 
 " The surgeon of Montorio Romano, who assisted in the 
 removal of our few remaining wounded, assured me that on 
 the first fii-e of the Papal cannon, five hundred of Menotti's 
 band, who witnessed the combat from an adjoining height, 
 threw down their arms and deserted. Menotti, who had 
 ordered Mattia Valentini to hold out two hours at Nerola, 
 then abandoned all idea of relieving the place, and left the 
 garrison to its fate. Such cowardice, with 2,500 men, is 
 utterly inconceivable, especially as he held a flank position, 
 most perilous for our column. 
 
 " At Correse, we were, in consequence of this inhuman 
 order (of the Italian lieutenant not to allow the ambulance 
 to enter an Italian ' Osteria'), obliged to go on to a miserable 
 cottage on the Pontifical side, to get ready, under great diffi- 
 culties, what was necessary." 
 
 The Garibaldians had acted with humanity to our 
 wounded, in comparison with what they met with from the 
 Italian regular troops, and it speaks little for the military 
 spirit of the army of Victor Emmanuel. Amid the revolting 
 sacrileges and impieties practised by the Garibaldians, — as 
 for instance at Bagnorea already related, — it is a pleasing 
 relief to hear of their care and humanity for their wounded 
 opponents, displayed particularly at Nerola, where their 
 forces were commanded by Menotti and Ricciotti Garibaldi, 
 sons of the old revolutionary general. Another relieving 
 feature of the otherwise dark aspect of the picture is the 
 repentance exhibited by many of these misguided youths — 
 entrapped into the meshes of the secret societies, and into 
 the revolutionary army — when they are wounded and have 
 to face eternity ; the piety which many of them exliibited 
 on receiving the last sacraments and consolations of the 
 Catholic religion on theii' deathbeds, has been beautifully 
 described by the correspondent before quoted, in the last 
 letter but one. 
 
14 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The following interesting paragraphs relate to a critical 
 period : 
 
 " On reaching Eome we found the city preparing for its 
 defence a Voutrance. Barricades were raised at all the 
 gates, cannon placed at every embrasure of the earthworks, 
 and a movement was known to be organised for the evening 
 of Wednesday. ... At the Campidoglio all had been pre- 
 pared by the conspirators to proclaim the republic, and there, 
 too, the guard was attacked. The troops fired and killed 
 ten Garibaldians. Later in the evening the caserne of Ser- 
 ristori, near St. Peter's, exploded with a fearful report. It 
 had been mined, and one whole side was blown into the air, 
 burying thirty men under the ruins. The dead are eighteen, 
 and the wounded twelve or fourteen, but they are still dis- 
 interring bodies." 
 
 This explosion took place on the 22nd of October. It 
 was planned and directed by the secret societies to assist 
 the Garibaldian invasion, and the other Zouave barracks 
 being also mined, it was a cowardly conspiracy to destroy 
 in cold blood those whom the revolutionary bands were 
 unable to conquer on the field of battle. Such dastardly 
 outrages as these are surely worthy of the execration of 
 Christendom, and of every civilised nation. 
 
CHAPTER 11. 
 
 SECRET SOCIETIES OF THE CONTINENT— CRITICAL STATE OF 
 ROME — COURAGE OF AN IRISHMAN — CAPTAIN DE LA 
 HOYDE ON MENTANA. 
 
 The secret societies spread through Italy and France, with 
 connections in other countries of the continent, are known 
 by different names, such as the Carbonari, Francmagons, &;c., 
 but the objects of the chiefs, and of those admitted to the 
 higher grades of each of tiiese secret organisations, are all 
 more or less the same, and they are, first, the destruction of 
 the order which the Providence of God has established in 
 the world ; next, the destruction of religion, of Christianity, 
 And even of the belief in a Supreme Being. The doctrines 
 of these pretended regenerators of the human race, being 
 equality, i.e., possession of everything in common, and im- 
 plying no superiority of anyone in dignity or authority 
 — a principle subversive of all government; liberty and 
 license ; fraternity ; atheism ; and a belief and worship of 
 the goddess, Nature. 
 
 Although I should be sorry to accuse even the majority 
 of the members of these secret sects of holding all these 
 frightful doctrines, yet I am fully convinced that they are 
 held more or less by the chiefs, and that the objects named 
 above are those for which the societies exist, and particu- 
 larly the Carbonari. Two works published by Father 
 Bresciani — " The Jew of Verona," and " Lionella," a sequel 
 to the former — let great light into the fearful machinery 
 by which the latter sect is worked, and especially with 
 regard to its operations in the Roman Revolution of 1848-9. 
 
 As a proof of the truth of what I have brought forward, 
 
16 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 I beg to refer the reader to a French work, " Les Franc- 
 magons/' by Mgr. Segur, Paris. If the reader is not able 
 to refer to this work, I can sincerely assure him that the 
 French prelate cites facts and authorities of indisputable 
 weight in support of the statements I have given of the 
 objects and doctrines of the secret sects. It may be asked 
 — how comes it that many professed Catholics join these 
 societies, if the objects are those I have given ? The 
 reason is, that they are entrapped into the meshes of the 
 sects by the specious cries of liberty, equality, fraternity, 
 without knowing the real objects of the organisation they 
 have been drawn into ; then afterwards, when once initiated, 
 it appears too late to retrace a false step, especially as, if 
 they retreat, they must be prepared to face the dagger — 
 which is the punishment awarded by the sect to all whom 
 it fears to trust longer with its secrets. 
 
 On the 23rd of October the citizens of the Eternal City 
 were kept in a constant state of alarm by the efforts of the 
 secret sects to provoke a revolution ; their efforts to destroy 
 the Zouaves in their barracks on the previous day have 
 been already mentioned, and in the same letter from 
 Rome which I last quoted we read : " Bombs were thrown 
 in every direction, at the Zouave Club, the gendarmerie 
 barracks,, and the quarters of the Antibes Legion, and the 
 alarm at length became so general, that the provisional 
 measures preparatory to a state of siege were published. 
 Cordons of military were drawn across the Corso and prin- 
 cipal streets, patrols traversed the city in every direction, 
 and the citizens were warned to retire to their houses. 
 Still, throughout the next day our outposts were attacked. 
 At Papa Giulio there was a very severe encounter, in which 
 the Legion d' Antibes and Swiss killed ten, and took fifteen 
 prisoners, all leading men of the party of action, among 
 whom are Cairoli, CoUoredo, and several young men of edu- 
 cation." 
 
 The following interesting account of the taking of the 
 revolutionary depot of arms in the Trastevere has been 
 furnished by an eye-witness, who was one of the attacking 
 
T^vo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 17 
 
 party: "On the 23rd of October, 1867, at two, p.m., a piquet was 
 formed of twenty-one Zouaves and twenty-one gendarmes, 
 with the intention of seizing a house supposed to be one of 
 the revolutionary depots of arms. The piquet dividing into 
 seven patrols of three gendarmes and three Zouaves each, 
 left the barracks of San Calisto in the Trastevere. Each 
 patrol took a different street to avoid observation, and if 
 possible, to surround the house without the knowledge of 
 the inmates. However, this was not to be, for scarcely had 
 the patrol to which I belonged got in sight of the house, 
 when a shot was fired by a man (si siipi^osed sentinel) which 
 struck the head of one of the gendarmes. This was the signal 
 for the conflict. The revolutionists — fifty-six in number — 
 immediately flew to the windows and commenced a very heavy 
 fire on the different patrols, which had now united. Not 
 content with that, the enemy got on the top of the house, 
 on which there was a spacious terrace, and from there threw 
 bombs, slates, melted lead, (Sic, on our heads. Our position 
 being much to our disadvantage, and our forces inferior in 
 number, we were obliged to send for a reinforcement, which 
 speedily anived. The fire was kept up on both sides with 
 great animation. About half-past four, p.m., the commander, 
 seeing that our remaining outside was of no avail, gave the 
 necessary order for an assault. The order was received 
 with a cheer, and the Zouaves, like the true heroes they 
 have always proved themselves, rushed forward without hesi- 
 tation through the fire of the enemy, and were soon en- 
 gaged in overthrowing and breaking through the barricades 
 thrown up. Very little resistance was made on the stairs. 
 On arriving at tlie apartment occupied by the revolution- 
 ists, the panels of the door were immediately broken through 
 with the butt ends of our muskets. A stoppage now ensued. 
 The captain asked : ' Who will go in first V The answer 
 was not long forthcoming. An Irishman, the only one of 
 his countrymen engaged in this affair, immediately an- 
 swered: 'I will.' He entered, and was soon followed by 
 his comrades, who, furious at the prolonged resistance of the 
 enemy, now commenced the fight in earnest. Random 
 
 2 
 
18 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 shots were fired, but without much effect to either party, 
 but frightful havoc was performed with the bayonet, with 
 which our feUows rushed on the revolutionists, and made 
 awful but short work of their business : seventeen of the 
 enemy were killed, and the rest taken prisoners. 
 
 "The Zouaves, although excited and furious almost to 
 madness at seeing their comrades shot down beside them, 
 yet when those very men who had done this, throw them- 
 selves on their knees and beg for their lives in the name 
 of the Madonna, listen to the cry for mercy, and their 
 enemies are spared, and made prisoners. In the house were 
 found immense quantities of ammunition^ thirty or forty 
 breechloaders, several cases of bombs and stilettoes, with 
 several hundred pikes, torches, and everything necessary to 
 help a republican demonstration. The salvation of Rome in 
 1867, partly dates from the glorious success of the 23rd of 
 October; in fact, it may be said that that day the grave of 
 the revolution was dug, to be finally filled up after the glo- 
 rious victory of Mentana." 
 
 This narrative shows in glorious colours both the courage 
 and the gentleness of the victors. The Irishman here men- 
 tioned behaved so admirably, that he received a gold medal 
 and the rank of sergeant for his bravery. They fought as 
 long as any resistance was offered, and then, like true sol- 
 diers, they showed mercy to those who craved it. 
 
 It appears from another account that all the revolution- 
 ists were natives of the North of Italy, and not Romans. 
 
 On or about this day a Zouave of the depot who was car- 
 rying the soup to his comrades on guard, was fired on and 
 killed in cold blood by a revolutionary hand. 
 
 All the outrages and conspiracies mentioned in this and 
 the preceding chapter, were conceived and carried out by 
 the agency of the secret societies, with a view to frighten 
 the peaceably inclined Romans and their defenders the Pon- 
 tifical soldiers, and to stir up a rising in Rome, and to pro- 
 claim there the red republic, while in the meantime the 
 Garibaldians did their share of the work by entering again 
 the Pontifical States, in order, as they thought, to crush all 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 19 
 
 opposition in the field, and to march on the Eternal City, in 
 order to proclaim the republic from the top of the capitol * 
 
 How the whole design was frustrated will be shown by 
 the sequel. 
 
 I have been, through the kindness of a Zouave friend, 
 furnished with the following very interesting paragraph, 
 letter, and official reports, of the defence of Monte E-otondo 
 and battle of Mentana, which were published in the Free- 
 Tnan's Journal of November 18th and November 22nd, 
 3867:— 
 
 " One of the first to volunteer from this country in defence 
 of the glorious and holy cause of Pius the Ninth, was Lieu- 
 tenant Albert Delahoyd, second son of our estimable fellow- 
 citizen Mr. Robert Delahoyd. Even before the formation 
 of an Irish Brigade was spoken of, he was in communica- 
 tion with friends in Rome, with a view of entering the 
 Pontifical army. 
 
 " However, as the great S3nnapathy meeting of 1860 gave 
 practical effect to its resolutions in sending out the Battalion 
 of St. Patrick, he obtained a sub-lieutenant's commission in 
 that corps, and as stafi" officer to General De Lamoriciere, in 
 Ancona, shared the perils of the siege. That brief and 
 unequal campaign being ended in the manner we are all 
 acquainted with, instead of returning home he retraced his 
 steps from Marseilles to Rome, and, content to enter the 
 remnant of the brave Franco-Belgian legion as a private 
 soldier, remained in Rome ever since, and worked his way 
 through the several military grades until he reached his 
 present proud position of a first lieutenant in the immortal 
 Zouaves, a position which he has now filled for nearly two 
 years, and is soon likely to exchange for a captaincy. The 
 subjoined letter from him, written after the battle of Mentana, 
 in which he took a part, and giving details of that glorious 
 day, will, we are sure, be perused with interest : — 
 
 " ' Rome, 8th November, 1867. 
 " ' In my last letter I gave you a hurried sketch of our 
 
 * Speech of Garibaldi. 
 
20 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 expedition to Nerola. On the following Wednesday three 
 companies of Zouaves, with cavalry and two guns, made a 
 reconnaisance outside the walls, beginning at Ponte MoUe, 
 near which, at Monte Parioli, the site of the celebrated Acqua 
 Aftetosa, there had been a skirmish the evening before, be- 
 tween a small detachment of Swiss and a band which had 
 drojDped down the Tiber at night in small boats. This band 
 contained many young men of good family, chiefly Lom- 
 bards and Venetians, who were to have entered Rome in 
 small groups and raise the row. They were well armed, 
 but quickly dispersed. The Swiss had three wounded, and 
 we found in a house several dead and wounded, and made 
 some prisoners ; we destroyed about fifty stand of arms, and 
 captured thirty-five revolvers. These gentlemen had been 
 pitching into a fine dinner when attacked, and we found a 
 quantity of choice wines, &c. We scoured the vineyards, 
 tore up the rails of the iron bridge, and mined the Pontc 
 Salara and Nomentana. My feet blistered after the forced 
 march from Nerola, got cut again, and lamed me for two 
 days. Friday, Garibaldi, with four thousand men, attacked 
 Monte Rotondo, defended by two companies of the Antibes 
 Legion, one company Swiss, two guns, and about thirty 
 dragoons and gendarmes. This little garrison repulsed four 
 assaults, and only surrendered for want of ammunition, after 
 twenty-seven hours. The Garibaldians had about three 
 hundred hors de combat; we had an artillery sergeant killed. 
 Lieutenant de Quatrebarbes, nephew of Count de Quatre- 
 barbes. Governor of Ancona in 1860, got a ball in the left 
 elbow, and lost a joint of the second finger of the right 
 hand ; seven Swiss were wounded, of whom one has since 
 died. Dr. O'Flynn was unhurt, but made prisoner. Satur- 
 day our colonel (AUet) started with nine hundred men and 
 two guns, but arrived too late. The Garibaldians say that 
 but for the old fellow himself they would never have per- 
 severed, and had the garrison held out another hour (they 
 had no more ammunition), or AUet's column been some hours 
 earlier, they would have been obliged to retreat. Saturday 
 I slept at home, having a slight feverishness from fatigue. 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 21 
 
 Sunday, 27th, I was on piquet at Piazza Colonna, and at 
 night was sent to reinforce the advanced post of Porta 
 Salara (forty Zouaves). I passed the night on a chair, 
 against the wall of the little police station, in the rain. 
 Towards morning we finished the mine, blew up the bridge, 
 tore up the railway bridge, and retired. Monday night, 28th, 
 I slept with my company under the colonnade of St. Peter's, 
 and on Tuesday was off to Ponte Molle for three days, 
 during which (as nearly always since the 16th of October), 
 I never took off my boots nor washed my face. Sunday 
 morning we started to beat up Garibaldi at Monte Rotondo. 
 Our force consisted of the regiment of Zouaves (fourteen 
 companies), the Swiss (eight companies), six guns, and one 
 and a half squadron of dragoons. In reserve three French 
 battalions (one Chasseurs and two of the line, which lattei 
 had the chassepots), and two guns. We crossed Ponte 
 Nomentana at half-past six, a.m. Five or six hundred men 
 were detached under Major De Troussures, of the Zouaves 
 to act on Garibaldi's rear. Our march was necessarily slow,* 
 being about to throw out scouts. At ten we halted to take 
 coffee and repose. We expected to find five hundred men 
 at Mentana, whom we should drive in, and have a severe 
 fight at Monte Rotondo, but the bands having devoured all 
 that was in the town, had set out that morning for Tivoli. 
 About three miles before the village the road winds up and 
 down four hills, pretty steep, and covered with oak woods 
 and brush. Here, at half-past twelve o'clock, the first shot 
 was fired; we halted, threw out the four companies, first 
 battalion, as skirmishers, second battalion remaining in 
 column. At one the firing got smart. I made a final act 
 of contrition, and we dashed on in support. 
 
 " The ravines and underwood rendered a charge in line im- 
 possible, so we went on where we could, with fixed bayonets 
 and firing constantly. In less than an hour we had driven 
 them from three strong positions. A certain number retired 
 into two houses, firing from the windows. One of these was 
 taken * a la haionette ;' twenty were bayoneted and at least 
 as many taken, the others fled from the house on the left of 
 
22 T^uo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 the road, leaving a number dead, wounded and prisoners. A 
 moment before Captain De Veaux fell, shot through the 
 heart. One of my sub-lieutenants Dujardin (promoted three 
 days before) got a shot in the hand, but we had few struck. 
 The Colonel ordered halt, to let the artillery come up, for the 
 village is so placed that one can only enter by the narrow 
 street. Garibaldi himself arrived just then, but seeing the 
 ' run,' returned to the village (two o'clock p. m.) and directed 
 the defence till four p. m., when he ' evaporated.' The artil- 
 lery plied the village with shell and grape, every window 
 was occupied by Red Shirts. The Swiss, and some stragglers 
 of ours, and the Legion extended behind a rising ground on 
 the right ; a crowd of fellows fleeing fell in the trap ; the 
 artillery sent them a shot of grape, and the Swiss finished 
 driviag them into the town. The French began about half- 
 past three p.m. driving them from a,n olive wood. A French 
 battalion of the line tried to enter the town, but from the 
 nature of the ground, was obliged to content itself with ply- 
 ing them with the chassepot. Meantime De Troussure's 
 column came on their rear ; as the enemy was nine or ten 
 thousand the havoc was awful. Night came on and put an 
 end to the afiair. 
 
 " We expected to continue the next day, but they evacuated 
 on the right, carrying ofl" upwards of 500 wounded. 
 
 " At six a. m. on Monday some skirmishing took place, and 
 the rest soon surrendered. They lost at least 300 killed 
 (it has since been ascertained the loss in killed amounted to 
 600) : we took 1,500 prisoners, of whom about 150 wounded, 
 and a quantity of arms. About nine o'clock. General De 
 Polhes arrived with his brigade, and we marched on Monte 
 Rotondo, which had been evacuated in the night. There we 
 found our wounded prisoners, captured a number of Red 
 Shirts, and at least 8,000 muskets. The Zouaves lost twenty- 
 three killed and two officers, and about sixty men wounded, 
 mostly without danger. We bore the brunt. The Legion 
 had eight wounded, the Swiss and French lost but few. Our 
 total loss in dead does not exceed forty, and in wounded 
 about seventy. On Wednesday we returned to Rome, and 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 23 
 
 there were still dead lying about. Many wretches, doubtless, 
 fleeing wounded, have died miserably in the woods. 
 
 " On our arrival at Rome, we were received by a crowd of 
 all classes, and got an enthusiastic cheering. Don Alfonso, 
 Count of Caserta, brother of Francis the Second, with two 
 other Neapohtan colonels of artillery, were on General Kanz- 
 ler's staff, and directed several of the guns. Monte Rotondo 
 was devastated. When we arrived we could get neither meat, 
 bread, nor cigars. The commissariat got something prepared 
 and distributed. I passed Sunday with a cup of soldiers' coffee, 
 some biscuit, and a little water, which latter was exceedingly 
 difficult to get, as there was but one well. At night I lay 
 on the ground in my mantle, sleeping perfectly from eight 
 till two, when I awoke unable to walk from cold. I then 
 slept about an hour and a half before a camp fire. On com- 
 ing to Monte Rotondo, I went to a family where I had lodged 
 before, got from them some smoked ham, wine and bread ; 
 got to bed at eight and slept till six. On Tuesday, with a 
 young Calabrian friend, a sergeant, we ferreted out some 
 cheese and macaroni, and in the evening we had cheese and 
 salad. It was droU to see the officers, as well as the soldiers, 
 trotting about with bundles of salad, radishes, &c., under 
 their arms. 
 
 " The churches were devastated, chalices, &c., stolen. "We 
 found a broken chalice on one wretch, the ostensorium, with 
 particles of the Host on another ; everything plundered \ the 
 altar, furniture, crucifixes, &c., smashed and burned, a scene 
 which brought tears to all our eyes, and then the poor people 
 of the town looking horror-struck at the wreck, 'twas horrible. 
 
 " There are but few stragglers now on the territory, and 
 they are busy plundering as they go off*. 
 
 " We are likely to have peace till the spring, when we may 
 hope for a general war, when Italy wiU certainly break 
 up, if, indeed, the Red party do not upset everything before 
 them. In all we have lost two captains, one lieutenant, 
 (my poor friend Guillemin) and two sub-lieutenants (Ema- 
 nuel Dufournel and Urban De Quelen.) The captains killed 
 were De Yeaux and Adeodatus Dufournel, brother of the 
 
24 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 sub-lieutenant. Two new companies have been formed, and 
 two more soon will be ; so I think I shall have another stripe 
 ere Christmas. 
 
 "By the blowing up of the corner of the Serristori barracks, 
 we lost sixteen men, and at Monte Libretti ten ; our total 
 loss is fifty dead, but the Garibaldians have got a lesson, of 
 which I do not think they will risk another. Two English- 
 men have fallen. Corporal Collingridge, wounded at Monte 
 Libretti, died at Nerola ; and young Watts Russell killed at 
 Mentana ; a Westmeath man, Curran, was slightly wounded 
 
 in the arm I put all in order (this is in allusion to 
 
 his preparation for the next world) to have as short a 
 quarantine as possible, ' in case ' — and got my passport vised 
 every eight days, so my only preoccupation was on your 
 account." 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 GENERAL KANZLER'S REPORT OF THE BATTLE OF MENTANA 
 ADDRESSED TO THE POPE. 
 
 " Most Holy" Father — Whilst hoping at some future day to 
 lay at your Holiness's feet a more circumstantial report of 
 the several engagements victoriously sustained by the Pon- 
 tifical troops against the sacrilegious invaders of the States 
 of your Holiness, I hasten to present this report on the 
 combat at Mentana, in which the French allied troops 
 valorously co-operated, to the end that the truth about this 
 decisive engagement, so much disfigured by the revolutionary 
 press, may be declared as speedily as possible. 
 
 " The threat of an invasion by the regular army, concerning 
 which a rumour was circulated of the confines having been 
 actually passed on the Monte Rotondo side, and the continual 
 increase in the provinces of the Garibaldian hordes, which, 
 on several points had begun to be massed in formidable 
 corps, induced me to propose to your Holiness on the 27th 
 of October last, the extreme measures of abandoning the 
 provinces and concentrating all the troops in Rome, and not 
 expose them to the danger of being attacked in isolated 
 positions and overwhelmed by such an invasion. No 
 sooner were the provinces abandoned than they were imme- 
 diately occupied by the bands of Garibaldi, which, meeting 
 with no opposition, became every day more numerous and 
 more oppressive. 
 
 " On the 26th ult., the little garrison of Monte Rotondo 
 was assailed by forces ten times more numerous. It sur- 
 rendered after a most heroic resistance, and these bands, 
 emboldened by success, pushed their outposts up to the 
 
26 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 very walls of Rome, disturbing the city and suburbs, and 
 threatening to give a helping hand to the many hired assas- 
 sins who had been secretly introduced into this capital, the 
 better to insure that it also should become a victim to their 
 sacrilegious desires. It therefore became a matter of urgent 
 necessity to strike some decisive blow to repress their 
 audacity, and put an end to their bandit enterprise. I 
 determined, in consequence, to put myself at the head of a 
 column of troops, not too inferior in numbers to the 
 Garibaldians, and give them battle at that very spot 
 whence they boasted they would march to the conquest 
 of Rome. Having communicated this project to the 
 Commander-in-Chief of the French troops. Count de Failly, 
 he manifested a desire to support us with a column of French 
 troops to secure us against a surprise from other bands, 
 which mustered in considerable numbers around Tivoli, and 
 which, if informed in time, might have attacked us in flank 
 whilst we were operating on Monte Rotondo. 
 
 "The Pontifical column placed under the command of 
 General Count de Courten was composed of the following 
 troops, viz. :- — 
 
 Two battalions of Zouaves, commanded by 
 
 Colonel AUet .... 1,500 men 
 
 One battalion of Carabineers (Swiss) under the 
 
 orders of Lieutenant-Colonel Jeannerot . 520 „ 
 One battalion of Antibes Legion, commanded by 
 
 Colonel Count d'Argy . . . 540 „ 
 
 One battery, six pieces of artillery, commanded 
 
 by Captain Polani . . . . 117 „ 
 
 One squadron of four platoons of dragoons, under 
 
 the orders of Captain Cremona , . 106 „ 
 
 One company of sappers . . . 80 „ 
 
 Gendarmes . . . . . 50 „ 
 
 Total . . . .• . 2,913 „ 
 
 "The French column which followed as a reserve. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 27 
 
 commanded by Brigadier-General Baron de Polli^s con- 
 sisted of : — 
 
 Second battalion of foot chasseurs 
 
 First battalion of the 1st regiment of the line, 
 under the orders of Colonel Fremont 
 
 First battalion of the 20th of the line, com- 
 manded by Colonel Saussier 
 
 Second battalion of the 59th of the line, under 
 the command of Colonel Berger 
 
 A platoon of the 7th mounted chasseurs, com- 
 manded by Commandant Wederspach-Tor 
 
 A platoon of Papal dragoons commanded by 
 Sub-Lieutenant Belli 
 
 Half a battery of artillery 
 
 Forming a total of . . . . 2,000 men 
 
 Thus the two columns numbered very near 5,000 men. 
 
 " We started at four in the morning from Porta Pia, and, 
 crossing the Ponte Nomentana, marched along the road that 
 leads to Mentana. Having crossed the bridge, I ordered 
 Major de Troussures of the Zouaves to go with three com- 
 panies of his regiment along the Anio to the Via Salara, and 
 advancing cautiously by that road, to create a diversion for 
 the enemy, whilst I would make the attack from the oppo- 
 site side. The advanced guard of the principal column, 
 preceded by a platoon of dragoons under Lieutenant de la 
 Rochette, was made up of three companies of Zouaves, under 
 the command of Major de Lambilly, and a section of artillery 
 directed by Lieutenant Cheynet. The enemy we went to 
 encounter was militarily encamped, expecting an attack, 
 and, so far from giving any indications of retreat, was dis- 
 posing his principal corps in the direction of Tivoli. Warned 
 by his outposts of the movements of our columns, he pre- 
 pared to meet us. The barricades which were afterwards 
 discovered, as well at Montana as at Monte Botondo and his 
 advanced posts, evidently proved that he had well entrenched 
 
28 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 himself in a strongly fortified position to await us. At about 
 three quarters past twelve o'clock, and at a distance of four 
 kilometres from Mentana the advanced guard came upon the 
 first Garibaldian posts, situated in most favourable positions 
 upon hills commanding the road along which we marched. 
 
 " Our Zouaves, without a moment's hesitation, threw 
 themselves upon this first line of the enemy, with which 
 little by little the entire regiment of Zouaves became 
 seriously engaged. In this first encounter very few shots 
 were fired, because the enemy, so quickly surrounded by 
 bayonets, was driven from the heights to others not far dis- 
 tant. In this first attack Captain De Veaux fell a glorious 
 victim, struck by a ball which passed right through his 
 heart whilst heading his company. This more than impe- 
 tuous onslaught was supported by the Swiss Carabineers, one 
 company of which took the left of the road, whilst the 
 others were thrown out along the right. At the same 
 moment two companies of the Legion by a well-directed 
 fire drove the Garibaldians from a neighbouring wood, from 
 which they annoyed the left wing of our column by a con- 
 tinuous fusillade. The enemy being routed in disorder from 
 his first positions, endeavoured to reform under cover and in 
 strong masses behind the walled enclosure of the Santucci 
 vineyard, but there, too, the [Zouaves with irresistible ^lan 
 attacked the vineyard and farmhouse, and were soon masters 
 of both. Lieutenant Colonel de Charette was on this occa- 
 sion at the head of the Zouaves in the attack and his horse 
 received three balls, whilst Colonel Allet throughout the 
 whole action was endeavouring to maintain the compactness 
 of his too ardent soldiers. 
 
 " From the beginning the combat was seconded by dis- 
 charges from one piece of artillery which, placed on a hill 
 at the left of the road, was pointed at the masses of the 
 enemy that endeavoured to reform in the Santucci vineyard 
 and was only silent when the rapid advance of our infantry 
 rendered a continuance of fire dangerous. When the entire 
 column had reached the summit of the Santucci vineyard, a 
 howitzer was placed on a hiU at the left of the road, about 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 29 
 
 800 metres from Mentana, and was speedily joined by two 
 pieces of French rifled artillery escorted by two companies 
 of foot chasseurs ; this artillery whilst firing on the Castle 
 of Mentana disabled the guns of the enemy. Almost at the 
 same moment another piece of Pontifical artillery was 
 placed on the road at a distance of 500 metres from Mentana, 
 and judging also that the Santucci vineyard was favourable 
 ground for establishing a section, I ordered the third section 
 of the Polani battery to post itself there, which united its 
 fire with capital success, to that of the pieces posted at a 
 short distance on the hill to the left. Meanwhile, our brave 
 infantry, with ever increasing ardour, advanced towards 
 Mentana, seeking to gain ground as well on the left as on 
 the riffht of this most solid and almost unassailable villaofe. 
 The enemy, perceiving this move, deployed two strong 
 columns to attack us on both flanks, and partially succeeded, 
 especially on the right wing, so that the battalion of Swiss 
 Carabineers which had pushed on through an olive grove to 
 within a very short distance of the village, suddenly found 
 itself between two fires, but it did not on this account, 
 although suffering heavy loss yield one inch of ground that 
 it had gained. It was then about half-past three in the 
 afternoon, and not having any more of my own column in 
 reserve, since Colonel D'Argy of the Antibes Legion who 
 had all the responsibility of watching our centre, was left 
 with a very small force, I invited General de Polhes to sup- 
 port both our wings. 
 
 " The French, who were up to that moment but spectators 
 of our progress, and very impatient ones, in an instant, with 
 their habitual bravery, threw themselves upon the enemy's 
 columns which were threatening to surround us. Colonel 
 Fremont of the 1st of the line, in fact, and aided by three 
 companies of the Chasseurs-k-pied not only arrested the 
 enemy's column, but having arrived at the extreme left of 
 the Garibaldians opened such a deadly fire on them that they 
 were compelled to beat a hasty retreat. This Colonel more- 
 over had the daring to push on at the rear of Mentana itself, 
 to within a very short distance of Monte Kotondo, which 
 
80 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 doubtless he would have entered with his column before the 
 Garibaldians, but that he feared he should be isolated from 
 the rest of our forces. Lieutenant-colonel Saussier of the 
 29th of the line, accomplished a similar movement on our 
 left wing. Having encountered an enemy's column, which 
 with the force of about 1,500 men, crowned the heights of 
 Monte Rotondo, notwithstanding the inferiority of his 
 strength, he took up an advantageous position to keep them 
 at bay and repulse them. Most opportunely at this moment 
 the detachment of Major De Troussures arrived on the field, 
 by the road running along the Tiber, and by the dexterous 
 movements executed by only three companies of Zouaves, 
 contributed in a great measure to intimidate the Garibal- 
 dians, and paralyze their attacking movements on our right 
 wing. Moreover, Major De Troussures got upon the road 
 leading from Monte Rotondo to Mentana, and pene- 
 trating to the rear of this last named village, made some 
 prisoners. Meeting however a stout resistance, and knowing 
 that Monte Rotondo was also occupied by bands, with great 
 daring and equal success, he traversed the entire enemy's 
 line till he got upon our extreme right, close beside the 
 French battalion of the first of the line, and there bivouacked 
 for the night. Meanwhile a section of artillery, commanded 
 by Captain Dandier, pushed on within three hundred metres 
 right under the walls of the Castle of Mentana, against which 
 it opened a steady fire ; but these pieces being too much ex- 
 posed to the enemy's musketry, ran great risk of being over- 
 powered. Bravely seconded, however, by a company of 
 Zouaves, they maintained their position for some time, not 
 without heavy loss, having had Marshal Count Bernadini 
 killed, and two guides and several horses wounded. Neverthe- 
 less this section was safely removed and placed in a more ad- 
 vantageous position. The infantry who ,throughseveralhours, 
 with unequalled bravery, had sustained and repulsed every 
 attack, by degrees was closing round Mentana, which was now 
 enclosed as it were within a circle of steel, despite the active, 
 uninterrupted fire of its defenders lying behind its walls. 
 I considered therefore that the moment had arrived, for 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 31 
 
 attempting a decisive assault, and so terminating the action 
 TDcfore night set in. I gave the necessary orders, and in- 
 formed General de Polhes, who, with Colonel Berger moved 
 on valorously at the head of the 59 th, and second battalion 
 of Chasseurs-^-pied, and advancing by a sheltered road on 
 the right of the high road to within a very short distance of 
 the walls of Montana, succeeded in driving the enemy from 
 the surrounding vineyards, but despite the most heroic en- 
 deavours he could not penetrate into the village, fortified as 
 it was with barricades, and flanked by isolated houses, all 
 strongly occupied by the enemy. 
 
 "Having observed that the principal scope of that day's 
 battle was attained, because the enemy, driven from all his 
 positions and after suffering immense loss, had retired into 
 Mentana and there remained demoralized and frightened; 
 I concluded (as night was just setting in) to postpone a re- 
 newal of the attack till the following morning ; especially as 
 there was no free exit from Mentana, and it was evident the 
 enemy would ask to surrender without waiting for another 
 assault, which would have infinitely increased its loss. Our 
 troops therefore, scattered about on the several conquered 
 positions, and mixed up with the French, were called to- 
 gether, and the necessary precautions being taken, we bivou- 
 acked for the night on the very ground which the enemy had 
 occupied at first, guarding by strong advanced posts all round 
 Mentana against any sortie. 
 
 " The night passed without any incident occurring, and the 
 facts of the following day proved exactly the correctness of 
 my calculations, for at an early hour -on the morning of the 
 4th, a " parliamentaire " was conducted to head quarters to 
 propose the surrender of Mentana, on condition that the 
 enemy might be permitted to retire with arms and baggage, 
 a condition which I naturally declined to agree to. Major 
 Fauchon, of the 59th of the line, had in the meantime made 
 a number of prisoners in the houses surrounding Mentana ; 
 and as this multitude of Garibaldians, along with so many 
 others captured in preceding engagements, created an em- 
 barrassment, I considered it less inconvenient to allow the 
 
32 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 remaining defenders of the Castle of Mentana to retire with- 
 out arms beyond the frontier. It was ascertained also that 
 Monte Rotondo had been evacuated during the night, and 
 Colonel Fremont, with a battalion of the 1st of the line, 
 followed by the 2nd Chasseurs-a-pied, entered Monte Ro- 
 tondo at an early hour, without having to strike a blow, and 
 was welcomed with the most enthusiastic " Evvivas " for the- 
 Holy Father and the Emperor of the French. 
 
 "The spectacle which the city of Monte Rotondo presented 
 to the eyes of our troops was sad in the extreme — churches 
 devastated, profaned, the citizens terrified with the extortions 
 and cruelties they were subjected to. The allied troops were 
 hailed by them as the deliverers. Garibaldi, who, with his 
 sons, was present at the battle of Mentana, was never seen in 
 the first line, and when he beheld his followers yielding, 
 driven in at all points by our brave troops, we have been 
 told that he fled in all haste for safety to Monte Rotondo, 
 and thence in the course of the evening passed the frontier, 
 thus exchanging his impious cry of 'Borne or death' for 
 ' Sauve qui peutf 
 
 " On the other hand it must be acknowledged, that the 
 movements of the enemy were well directed, and that confid- 
 ing in their numerical superiority, and their favourable posi- 
 tion, they defended themselves bravely at several points,, 
 especially from behind the walls and barricades. 
 
 Our losses were as follows : — 
 
 KILLED. WODNDED. 
 
 De Courten column — Regiment of Zouaves, 
 (including Captain De Yaux, killed, second 
 Lieutenant Jacquemont and Sub-lieutenant 
 
 Dujardin wounded), 24 57 
 
 The Roman (Antibes) Legion, privates ... — 6 
 
 Battalion of Swiss Carabineers, (including 
 Major Castella and Sub-lieutenant Dewer- 
 
 scheen, wounded) 5 87 
 
 Artillery 1 2 
 
 Dragoons — 1 
 
 Total 30 103 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 33 
 
 Killed, woukded. 
 
 The De Polh^s column — 2nd battalion Chas- 
 
 seurs-a-pieds — 6 
 
 1st Regiment of the line — 2 
 
 25th Regiment of the line — 5 
 
 59th Regiment of the line (including Captain 
 Marambat and Lieutenant Blanc, both 
 
 wounded) one missing 2 22 
 
 Regiment of Chasseurs mounted , — 1 
 
 Total, 1 missing 2 36 
 
 "According to the information gleaned from the inhabitants 
 of Mentana and the prisoners, and arguing from the quantity of 
 arms found, both in Mentana and Monte Rotondo, the Gari- 
 baldians numbered about 9,000, of which number more than 
 1,000 were put ' hors de corahat' and 1,398 were made pri- 
 soners. Several hundreds were escorted to the frontiers, the 
 rest fled, breaking and throwing away their arms, and leaving 
 one cannon behind. The result of the victory was therefore 
 the most complete that could be hoped for. The humanity 
 of the allied troops was equal to their valour. Soldiers of 
 every arm, though worn out by the fatigues of the march, and 
 the ensuing battle of four hours, set to work that very 
 evening to search for the wounded, and resumed the follow- 
 ing morning, bringing in, in the most careful manner, the 
 Garibaldian wounded, as well as their own companions, to 
 the ambulance, where all were equally cared for, not only by 
 the military and sanitary officials, and the infirmarians be- 
 longing to the ambulance, but also by the heroic and chari- 
 table Mrs. Catharine Stone, by three Sisters of Charity, by 
 the Messieurs Dr. Ozanam, Yicomte de St. Priest, Vrignault, 
 Benoit D'Azy, and De Luppe, who came out expressly for this 
 pious purpose. In gi-atitude I feel bound to signalize the 
 cordial concurrence, valour and ability of General de Polh.es, 
 and I may be permitted to add also the name of Colonel 
 Fremont, who distinguished himself for daring and military 
 skill. I must also mention Colonel Berger, of the 59th of 
 the line, and Lieutenant- Colonel Saussier of the 29th, who 
 
 3 
 
34 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 took a share, the first in the attack on the right, the second in 
 that on the left. Amongst our troops. General de Courten 
 with his aides-de-camp, Captain Eugene de Maistre, Captain 
 Pietramellara, and Sub-Lieutenant de Terves, the heads of 
 corps, officers and soldiers, all did their duty gloriously, and 
 it would be too long a report if I were to note down every 
 individual act of heroism. 
 
 "I cannot, however, pass over in silence the names of those, 
 who, animated with the noble desire of combating for the 
 sacred cause of your Holiness, voluntarily united themselves 
 to the corps of operation. In the first place I must mention 
 his Royal Highness the Count of Caserta, who, from the very 
 beginning of this iniquitous invasion, placed himself at my 
 disposal, beseeching me to employ him wherever danger 
 should be greatest. His Royal Highness in the action at 
 Mentana was admired by our troops for his courage, and gave 
 unmistakable proof of military discernment and skill. Colo- 
 nels Afan de Riviera and Ussani were worthy to foUow their 
 Prince. Colonel Sonnenburgh, commanding the Swiss Guard 
 of your Holiness, was on the stafi'and rendered great services 
 as stafi"- officer. Finally I must specially mention the courage, 
 zeal, and services rendered by the officers of my staff*. Major 
 TJngarelli, aide-de-camp; Captain Francis de Maistre, Captain 
 Bourbon de Chains, and Captain Maumigny, as also the inde- 
 fatigable activity of the Sub-Intendant Monari, who by 
 his judicious foresight, provided the column with valuable 
 resources. I am very happy to be able to conclude this my 
 report, with the assurance that the Pontifical troops, as they 
 have shown themselves throughout this campaign, worthy 
 of the noble mission entrusted to them, so they will be glad 
 to seize their arms with equal ardour every time the enemies 
 of the Holy See may challenge them to new combats. 
 
 " In fine, I implore for the little army of your Holiness, for 
 the allied troops and for myself your apostolic benediction. 
 
 "Of your Holiness the most humble, devoted, and obedient 
 servant and subject, 
 
 " Herman Kanzler, 
 " General, Fro-minister of Arms,'* 
 
CHAPTER TV. 
 
 FKENCH OFFICIAL REPORT OF THE BATTLE — MGR. DUPANLOUP 
 ON THE VICTORIES — DE QUELEN AND DUFOURNEL — EVI- 
 DENCE OF THE DISPOSITIONS OF THE ROMANS — CARDE^AL 
 DONNET ON THE POPE— HEROISM OF A LADY. 
 
 The other official report which is signed by the Com- 
 mander-in-chief of the French forces, General de Failly, cor- 
 roborates that of General Kanzler in all important particulars. 
 On taking the two reports and looking through them, we 
 may make the following summary : — 
 
 The battle of Mentana was a glorious victory for the allied 
 forces engaged ; it was a complete and decisive victory, for 
 in consequence the Garibaldians all quickly retired from the 
 Pontifical States ; the forces engaged numbered 2913 Ponti- 
 fical, and 2000 French soldiers, against about 9000 revolu- 
 tionary troops ; the Garibaldians had the advantage of strong 
 positions, from which to defend themselves, both, on the 
 heights commanding the Via Nomentana, and in the fortified 
 villages of Mentana and Monte Rotondo ; all the troops, botli 
 Pontifical and French, fought bravely — and iiarticularly the 
 Zouaves, The Pontificals undertook the chief attach, and 
 suffered more considerably than the French in consequence ; 
 the French troops acted as the reserve, and were only brought 
 into action three hours after the commencement of the battle. 
 
 Thus the statement that the victory was entirely owing to 
 the presence of the French troops, is not borne out by the 
 facts. I do not deny to these brave men their due meed of 
 praise, and General Kanzler has rendered testimony to their 
 good services in the report given in the last chapter ; all that 
 
 3—2 
 
36 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 I contend for is, the right of the Pontificals to claim the 
 honour of having made the attack, and driven the enemy 
 from very commanding positions at the point of the bayonet, 
 in fact of having sustained the brunt of the battle. 
 
 In proof of this, I subjoin the following extracts from 
 General de Failly's report : — " These troops — the Pontificals 
 — under the orders of General Kanzler, solicited the honour 
 of marching first to the attack .... The Garibaldians' ad- 
 vanced posts, who occupied the thicket which fringes the 
 road, opened fire on the advanced guard of the Pontificals. 
 The thicket was stormed and carried in a brilliant manner 
 by the Zouaves, who succeeded in establishing themselves 
 
 on the heights which command Mentana Our loss 
 
 in this brilliant aff*air was two officers wounded, two soldiers 
 killed, thirty-six wounded, and one missing. The Pontifical 
 army, which undertook the chief attack, suffered much more 
 considerably. As regards the losses of the Garibaldians they 
 are enormous, compared with those of the allied troops. The 
 number of dead taken from the field of battle exceeded 600 ; 
 that of the wounded is in proportion, and that of the pri- 
 soners amounted to 1,600 I cannot conclude this 
 
 report better. Monsieur le Marechal, than by pointing out to 
 your Excellency the daring and bravery of the Pontifical 
 troops. It is a homage which the French army is happy to 
 render them. De Failly, General-in-chief." 
 
 I make the following extracts from the Pastoral Letter of 
 Monseigneur Dupanloup, Bishop of Orleans ; they relate to 
 the victories of the Pontifical army: — 
 
 " It has been needful, alas ! that their blood should flow ; 
 but across the billows of that blood spilled, God has con- 
 ducted them to glor}^ . . . Victors in twenty battles, even 
 when they are one against ten, they earned the triumph they 
 have obtained. Soldiers of the right and of honour, they 
 have made justice triumphant, and have torn the spoils from 
 the wicked .... What voice issues from their triumph ? 
 They proclaim, with resistless eloquence, these champions of 
 the most beautiful of causes, that there are still noble hearts 
 capable of devoting themselves for the weak and justice. 
 
Two Years in the Fontijlcal Zouaves. 37 
 
 and that this sacred cause of the Pontiff thrills in the Catho- 
 lic world, the most profound and delicate fibres of men's souls. 
 They have conquered not only armed violence, but calumny 
 and lying ; they have crushed the sophisms of the revolution ; 
 they have shown by the side of a faithful people, a devoted 
 army, a sovereign that is venerated and defended ; and it 
 needs must be that in tlie councils of Europe their voice shall 
 be heard." 
 
 In the Tablet of November 9th, 1867, we find the follow- 
 ing particulars relating to MM. de Quelen and Dufournel, 
 two sous-lieutenants of the Pontifical Zouaves, who died 
 gloriously in defence of the Holy See ; — 
 
 " It is a sacred duty to assist in spreading the praises and 
 holding up the examples of these heroes of the Church, of 
 these brave martyrs of the Christian cause. Urbain de 
 Quelen, was the son of M. Prosper de Quelen of Kerhoan, 
 near Le Faou, in Brittany. Having enlisted in the Pontifical 
 Zouaves, he obtained his promotion as sous-lieutenant last 
 summer in reward for his bravery in succouring a gendarme 
 attacked by two brigands. M. de Quelen killed one and 
 wounded the other, but received a severe wound himself. 
 He had not recovered from it, when he was attacked by 
 cholera and compelled to send in his resignation." 
 
 It appears that at the time of the Garibaldian invasion he 
 had obtained his cong4 and was still sufiering from his 
 wound and from the cholera, when he rejoined the service to 
 share the dangers of his comrades and to offer up his life in 
 defence of the Holy See. " He was mortally wounded at 
 Monte Libretti, and died next day a death worthy of a de- 
 scendant of the Crusaders." 
 
 The Impartial says : — " In 1249 a Quelen was killed by 
 the side of a brother of St. Louis, at the battle of Massoura. 
 In 1270 another Quelen perished before Tunis with St. Louis 
 himself In 1867 another Quelen lays down his life for the 
 rights of the Holy See, and the liberty of the Church. 
 Honour to the family 1 It justifies its proud Breton motto, 
 En 'pel amzer Quelen. ' There are always Quelens.' Yes, 
 there are Quelens to defend religion and right. Honour to 
 them, and honour to all who follow their example." 
 
38 Tvm Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The Union of Franclie Comte says : — "The death is an- 
 nounced of M. Emmanuel Dufournel, wounded in the affair of 
 
 October 20th, near Farnese, and who died next day 
 
 This young and brilliant officer had been on sick leave, when 
 the news of the dangers of the Holy See called upon his 
 
 faith and honour to rejoin his flag He had been in 
 
 the service of the Sovereign Pontiff for live years, and had 
 won every step by his valour and good conduct." 
 
 Another account says : — " Lieutenant Dufournel was at 
 Yelletri on October 18th, with a detachment of the Zouaves, 
 where he and his men confessed and communicated. On the 
 19 th, he was sent with forty of his men under the command 
 of a Captain of Carabineers, to occupy the little village of 
 Farnese, near Yalentano. A band of Garibaldians were there, 
 and M. Dufournel was ordered to take a large house at the 
 entrance of the village. This order was executed, but being 
 soon attacked by a superior force the Pontificals barricaded 
 themselves. To avoid having to surrender, M. Dufournel 
 resolved to sally forth, and cut his way through the enemy. 
 He severed with his sword the rope which kept the boards 
 of the barricade in their place, but they fell so as to leave 
 room for one man only at a time to pass] from the house. 
 The Garibaldians were drawn up in front, and death was 
 certain, but Emmanuel Dufournel rushed upon their bayonets, 
 and fell pierced by twenty wounds. His immediate follower 
 fell also, but the rest of the Zouaves got out, formed, and 
 charged the Garibaldians, who fled. One of M. Dufournel's 
 many wounds had pierced the lungs, and he died next day 
 after receiving all the rites of the Church." 
 
 A letter in the Univers says : — " I have just seen at the 
 hospital the E,ev. Father Gerlache, who attended Lieutenant 
 Dufournel. He died like a Christian hero, happy to see his 
 blood flow from his fifteen wounds for the glory of the 
 Church. 'We are living,' said Father Gerlache, 'in an 
 atmosphere all redolent of Christian glory and martyrdom.' " 
 
 The Times Florence Correspondent makes the following un- 
 expected admissions regarding Mentana and the other events 
 of this period : — " If there had not been a French Brigade 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 39 
 
 in support, there would have been one of Pontifical troops, 
 and it is impossible to believe that the result of the conflict 
 would have been different. Rejecting the exaggerations rife 
 on both sides as to the number of the Pope's men and of the 
 Garibaldians during the late warfare in the Roman States, 
 and taking into account the superiority of the former in 
 armament, drill, artillery, and organisation, one fact seems 
 established by the events of the last few weeks, and it is 
 that tlie Pope's army suffices (which has often been doubted) 
 not only to maintain his authority amongst his own sub- 
 jects, but to repel any attack that could be made upon him 
 from the side of Italy, without the cognizance or manifest 
 connivance of the Italian government. This belief is linked 
 with another fact, clearly resulting from recent occurrences, 
 and which is, that the Pope's own subjects are not disposed 
 to risk their lives for their liberties, or to strike the blow 
 which the 'hereditary bondsman' is warned by the poet 
 must be the condition of his freedom. There is no denying 
 that the Bomans, whether of town or country, lent no aid 
 worth mentioning to the Italian invaders. Viterbo, a large 
 town slenderly garrisoned, was attacked by the Garibaldians, 
 but they found no support from a population we have 
 always heard spoken of as the most malcontent and resolute 
 in the Pope's dominions." Thus far the Times correspond- 
 ent ; we find the opinion here expressed as to the disposition 
 of the inhabitants of the Roman States corroborated by the 
 following extracts : — " On the 5th instant, at 5*30, a.m., the 
 Piedmontese troops evacuated Frosinone. All the houses 
 were decorated, and in the principal streets an immense 
 crowd assisted with enthusiastic exclamations at the re- 
 installation of the Pontifical escutcheon. In the afternoon 
 the Pontifical troops entered amid demonstrations of joy by 
 the inhabitants, who, headed by the magistrates, went out 
 en masse to meet them with white and yellow banners. In 
 the evenuior there were brilliant illuminations."* 
 
 " Palestrina was evacuated by the Garibaldians on the 6th. 
 
 * Giomale di Roma. 
 
40 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The population were so hostile to them, that, except by 
 force^ they were unable to make the peasants help them to 
 throw up their fortifications at Tivoli. The Garibaldians, 
 under the command of Piancini, retired precipitately on the 
 approach of the Pontificals, after setting up their colours in 
 the square, with threats of vengeance against any one who 
 should touch it. These threats, however, did not prevent 
 the inhabitants from tearing down the Piedmontese flag and 
 hoisting the Pontifical colours. The French were welcomed 
 with cheers."* 
 
 The Roman correspondent of the Standard, writing from 
 Rome on the 6th November, says of the magnificent de- 
 monstration in favour of the Pontifical troops which took 
 place on their return to Rome after the victory of Mentana : — 
 " Half-past two had been fixed for their reception at the 
 Piazza del Termini, and before that hour the whole road 
 from the Quirinal to the Porta Pia was blocked up by car- 
 riages filled with the families of the Roman aristocracy, and 
 every window was crowded, every balcony draped with the 
 gay hangings usual on solemn occasions in Rome. About 
 half-past two General Kanzler appeared, and mounting his 
 charger, rode out to the Porta Pia, accompanied by the 
 General de Failly. Very soon they returned at the head of 
 the victorious column, and General Kanzler was the object 
 of a most enthusiastic ovation as he took his place in the 
 square and waited the defile of the troops. The Zouave 
 companies formed the avant-garde. Dusty and war-worn, 
 as troops returning from active service ever are, their gay 
 and proud bearing was the theme of universal admiration, 
 and the whole crowd broke into enthusiastic cheers as M. 
 de Charette and the Commandants de Troussures and Lam- 
 billy appeared at the head of the regiment, their gallantry 
 at Mentana having become a household word in Rome. It 
 was a beautiful sight to watch company after company of 
 noble volunteers, many of them mere children in years, but 
 with the chivalrous resolution of veteran soldiers in their 
 
 * Tablet. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 41 
 
 gait aud countenance as they passed before General Kanzler ; 
 and even the French general was so evidently moved at the 
 sight, that we observed him repeatedly turn to General 
 Kanzler and wring his hand, as our neighbours say, ' avec 
 effusion,' as ' les enfants de la vieille France ' passed. Madame 
 Kanzler's carriage driving up at the moment, her excellency 
 was received with a burst of cheering; and her name, dear 
 to the Romans as one of themselves, since it has been asso- 
 ciated with the courage and self-devotion of her gallant hus- 
 band, whom she has so nobly seconded in the moment of 
 supreme difficulty. 
 
 " The Legion of Antibes were admirably received, as were 
 also the Swiss Carabineers, the artillery, and the gendarmerie, 
 and dragoons. Flowers were scattered on the troops as 
 they passed, handkerchiefs waved, and the enthusiasm of 
 the citizens is the best answer to those who state that the 
 army is unpopular in Rome. Of the army, foreign and 
 native, it may be fairly said — 
 
 *' ' The city cast its people out upon it,' 
 
 for such a crowd has scarcely ever been seen in Rome as 
 assembled to greet its triumphal entry yesterday. . . . The 
 Italian troops have, I believe, evacuated Viterbo during the 
 night, Yilletri and Frosinone have also called in the Papal 
 troops, and quiet is everywhere restored." 
 
 Thus from every quarter we have the in.os>i conclusive 
 evidence that the inhabitants of the Roman States were 
 perfectly contented to remain subjects of the Pope, that 
 they looked with gratitude on the foreign soldiers, i.e. 
 the Zouaves, the French Legion, the Swiss, who had de- 
 fended their city and country from the Garibaldian bands, 
 and thus prevented a repetition of the crimes and tyranny 
 of 1849 ; and further, that they have no wish to be united 
 to the rest of Italy under the sway of King Victor 
 Emmanuel. 
 
 From the Monde we learn as follows as to the object of 
 Garibaldi's march on Tivoli which brought about the battle 
 of Mentana: — '' In a council of war held at Monte Rotondo, 
 
42 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 it was resolved to march to the Abruzzi and raise the 
 standard of revolt against Victor Emmanuel. An insurrec- 
 tion was to have broken out at Milan, and Pavia, and at 
 Florence. The Pontifical army, therefore, rendered a great 
 service to Victor Emmanuel by annihilating Garibaldi's 
 corps at Mentana. Garibaldi's intention in ordering his 
 troops to march on Tivoli was evidently not to attack Eome, 
 which he knew to be beyond his reach, nor to dissolve his 
 army. " It results, from all the documents which we have 
 had before us (and the Nazione itself of November 6th dis- 
 closes it) that the chief of the Eed Shirts was endeavouring 
 to gain the Apennines, with the intention of flinging him- 
 self into the Southern provinces, where the fire of insurrec- 
 tion against the existing order of things still smoulders 
 under the ashes." * 
 
 The following extracts are taken from the Pastoral of 
 H. E. Cardinal Donnet, Archbishop of Bordeaux, and from 
 the Gazette du Midi: — 
 
 "Energy, dear brethren, energy carried up to hero ism, is the 
 necessity of our day. The Sovereign Pontiff, against whom 
 the shafts of hell are directed, because the whole church is 
 summed up in him, is a magnificent example of it. How 
 noble his attitude in the midst of his trials ! How his con- 
 stancy attests his divine mission ! How his magnanimity 
 honours humanity ! The Castle of St. Angelo, in which were 
 confined the daggermen of the invasion, who had been taken 
 prisoners, witnessed the other day a sight to move earth 
 and heaven. The Garibaldian prisoners, to the number of 
 more than two hundred, were in the basement story of the 
 castle, when the door opened suddenly and they saw appear 
 one clothed in white. It was the Pope. He entered alone, 
 and calm and radiant with holiness and majesty. He stood 
 in the midst of them and said, ' Here I am, my friends ; 
 you see before you the vampire of Italy, of whom your 
 general speaks. What ! you all took up arms to attack me, 
 and you find only a poor old man.' 
 
 * Tablet. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 43 
 
 " Not a word was spoken ; all the volunteers of Garibaldi 
 had instinctively knelt down. Pius IX., deeply affected 
 and glowing with benevolence, stood amidst the poor crea- 
 tures all kneeling round him, and affording a striking pic- 
 ture of Italy repentant, of Italy of the future. 
 
 "He accosted several and said, ' My son, you want clothes ; 
 you, shoes ; you, linen. Well, the Pope whom you marched 
 to attack will see about clothing you, and sending you back 
 to your families, to which you shall take his blessing.' 
 The Pope blessed them. 
 
 *' Wliat a picture, my brethren ! But at Rome the 
 sublime invokes the sublime. Pius IX., surrounded by his 
 little army, displaying his mildness and resignation amid 
 the warlike enthusiasm of his defenders, who were asking 
 his blessing before going to die for his flag, was not that a 
 magnificent spectacle ? soldiers of Pius IX., you teach us 
 what to care for life when the defence of eternal truth is in 
 question. martyrs of the holiest of causes, every Chris- 
 tian heart repays you with gratitude and love. When you 
 fight and die for our Father, you are fighting and dying for 
 us. AU our soul is with you. We bleed from your wounds 
 — we rejoice in your triumphs. Heroes of Viterbo, of Monte 
 Libretti, of Bagnorea, if further conflicts are before you, 
 your courage will rise equal to every danger, and if you fall 
 the Church will build for you in her heart a shrine of im- 
 mortality."* 
 
 These words of thrilling eloquence wiU find an echo in 
 the hearts of all those 'who were thoroughly acquainted 
 with the intentions and motives of the Pontifical Zouaves 
 of this time. 
 
 The Univers publishes a letter dated Rome, November 
 4th. M. de Yeaux was killed near the Villa Santucci. This 
 young officer, one of the most amiable and accomplished in 
 the corps of Zouaves, was shot dead by a ball through the 
 heart. He lay near a little chapel where the first ambu- 
 lance had been established. Not a drop of blood had 
 
 * Pastoral of H. E. Cardinal Donnet. 
 
44 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 stained his uniform. The hole made by the bullet was the 
 only evidence of the wound. His lips still smiled. The 
 gracious, cordial expression was unchanged. By his side 
 was the corpse of a red-bearded Garibaldian, bathed in 
 
 blood Many Garibaldian officers wounded, taken, 
 
 or killed, are dressed with great foppishness. Among the 
 dead was a very handsome young man. His pocket-book 
 contained his cards — ' Giuseppe — commis-voyageur en co- 
 tonnerie, "iuercerie, et passe^^nenterie! The pocket-book of 
 this poor haberdasher's clerk contained the following letter : 
 ' Oh, pardon me, my mother, the crime I have committed, 
 and the pain I have caused you. I am not here of my own 
 accord. I am forced to choose between dying in battle or 
 dying by the dagger.' 
 
 " One cannot read without emotion, one cannot but com- 
 miserate these unhappy youths, whom the Italian sects 
 entangle in their dark conspiracies, and devote to the alter- 
 native left to Giuseppe Gabrielli."* 
 
 The Baron de Becquilley writes to the Univers — 
 
 " Madame Stone was at Mentana with the most advanced 
 ambulances, preserving, amid shells bursting, and bullets 
 whistling, the impassibility of a true Briton. She behaved 
 splendidly under fire, and was wholly devoted to her 
 wounded." 
 
 The heroism and charity of this lady has been already 
 mentioned in General Kanzler's report ; from other sources 
 we gather that she was also particularly attentive to the 
 wounded of Monte Libretti and Nerola, undertaking the 
 organization of the ambulance. I can testify myself to her 
 great kindness to the inmates of the hospital of Santo 
 Spirito, in Eome; in fact, she has long proved herself a 
 Mthful imitator of those heroic daughters of St. Vincent of 
 Paul — the Sisters of Charity. 
 
 * Tablet. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO ROME — ENGAGEMENT IN THE ZOUAVES — LIFE 
 
 IN THE DEPOT — EASTER IN ROME — DISCIPLINE OF THE 
 
 CORPS. 
 
 Rome ! thy very name awakes 
 Within my soul a thousand thrills ; 
 Upon the slumb'ring mem'ry break 
 Thine echoes sweet of classic hills. 
 
 Thou once wert mistress of the world, 
 As nations far and near proclaimed ; 
 Thy banners Ca)sars oft unfurl'd, 
 And conquer'd all, and made thee fam'd. 
 
 Again, how changed is all the scene ! 
 The mighty Pagan Rome is gone ; 
 Triumphant everywhere has been 
 Christ's victory for ever won. 
 
 The Cross aloft ! behold it stands 
 O'er grandest monuments of skill ; 
 The Holy One by peaceful hands. 
 The people taught, and teaches still. 
 
 1868. — I LEFT home Sunday, March 8th, and saw Captain 
 Mullings on arriving in London. The next day he 
 kindly gave me letters of introduction to parties in Rome. 
 Monday evening I left London for Newhaven, went on 
 board the steamboat the same night, and arrived at Dieppe 
 the following morning. 
 
 Paris, March 11th. — The voyage was splendid, there was 
 a pleasant swell on the sea, and I had no sea sickness ; I 
 had the pleasure of meeting a very kind young Frenchman 
 at Victoria Station, we travelled to Paris together, and he 
 has been of great assistance to me. I get on pretty well 
 with the language and can generally make myself under- 
 
46 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 stood, though I cannot yet understand much French spoken 
 by natives. I obtained my passport yesterday, and have 
 passed a doctor's examination satisfactorily. On my way 
 from Dieppe I had two hours' delay at Rouen, and spent 
 them very pleasantly in visiting the mediaeval remains and 
 Cathedral, a splendid old Gothic pile. In Paris I have 
 visited Notre Dame des Victoires, La Trinite, La Madeleine, 
 and St. Sulpice. 
 
 Eome, March 18th. — I avail myself of my first leisure 
 moments to tell you of my safe arrival here, and of the 
 great success — with the blessing of God — of my efforts to 
 enter the Pontifical army. I started from Paris on 
 Thursday afternoon in the company of five Frenchmen — 
 recruits — and a sergeant who was returning to Eome. We 
 left at three p.m., and travelled all the following night and 
 next day without intermission, except for refreshment. 
 
 A few words on the fine city we left will doubtless be 
 interesting. Paris is indeed a beautiful city, far before 
 London in point of beauty ; the houses generally grand, the 
 churches fine, the city interspersed with beautiful gardens, 
 trees, and promenades ; the Palace of the Tuilleries, the 
 Palais Royal, the Place de la Concorde, and the Cathedral 
 of Notre Dame are especially fine ; the river Seine and its 
 bridges are also very beautiful, especially by gaslight. On 
 my way to the Lyons Railway I passed the Jardin des 
 Plantes, part of which is a promenade, the other being a 
 Zoological Garden ; very near to it are vineyards and wine 
 stores. 
 
 In the church of St. Sulpice there is a very beautiful and 
 famous statue of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception 
 which I much admired; the exterior of Notre Dame de 
 Paris is most beautifully carved with statues of saints and 
 kings, it is all in the Gothic style. I had not time to see 
 the Lady Chapel, but the prettiest gem of Gothic I saw in 
 Paris was La Sainte Chapelle, which I believe was built by 
 Saint Louis. 
 
 Beyond the fine rivers and vineyards there was nothing 
 particular to remark on the journey through France until 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 47 
 
 Hearing Lyons, where the views became grand ; what with 
 majestic mountains, pleasant valleys, dotted here and there 
 with cottages ; near Chateauneuf we saw several picturesque 
 ruins of old castles on nearly perpendicular rocks, then here 
 and there a peach tree in blossom on the lower slopes of the 
 mountains; as we neared Avignon vegetation was very- 
 much advanced, peaches, apricots, nectarines in blossom, 
 and unfolding theii* leaves, at least a month earlier than in 
 England ; as we began to approach Marseilles, we saw the 
 olives, which are the principal fruit trees cultivated on the 
 rocky mountains near the railway. 
 
 About six p.m., Friday, we had the first glimpse of the 
 beautiful Mediterranean, and about seven we reached 
 Marseilles. I was rather tired after this first long journey 
 loy train, for I had felt the cold the previous night, having 
 lent my rug to one of the recruits with whom I was already 
 friendly. 
 
 At Marseilles I began to experience some of the difficul- 
 ties of being entirely amongst foreigners, and being able to 
 speak but little (that little, however, very useful) of their 
 language, and to understand none except spoken slowly and 
 in distinct sentences ; I also found the accent of Marseilles 
 more difficult than that of Paris. While there I saw the 
 grand Rue Canebiere and much admired the fine buildings 
 and port, also the renowned sanctuary of Notre Dame de la 
 Garde. The present church is in process of building, the 
 situation is magnificent, and Notre Dame overlooks the city 
 and harbour like a guardian angel. We heard Mass, had 
 our breakfast, then started on board a steamer for Civita 
 Vecchia. I enjoyed the voyage very much on the whole, 
 the accommodation for the night was very rough — a good 
 breaking in for my future life — that was all; we were 
 nearly two days at sea, arriving at Civita Vecchia yesterday 
 morning at nine o'clock, and here at seven in the evening. 
 At the station we were met by a sergeant, who conducted 
 us to the barracks, where I was warmly received by the 
 English and Irish recruits. I think that I shall choose to 
 enlist in the Zouaves, as the dragoons are mostly Italians. 
 
48 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 I do not anticipate any difficulty in getting in. The- 
 Zouaves whom I have met are on the whole a noble body 
 of men ; the gTey dress I like very much ; they are for the 
 most part young, some of them under twenty ; the average 
 height is above my own. I must further describe the life 
 when I know more ; it is not so hard as it has been repre- 
 sented, from what I have seen and heard as yet. 
 
 March 28th. — I must only write a few lines this time, as 
 I am in the guard-room, waiting my turn to go on guard 
 for the first time. It is not at all hard work ; here, for 
 instance, take the sentry work, it will come to my turn once 
 in about eight days ; nine of us take twenty-four hours, 
 three being on guard as sentinels for two hours, then we 
 rest, but mast be within call ; then, after four hours' rest, 
 we take turn again. 
 
 The introduction I received from the Hon. and Right Rev. 
 Dr. Clifford greatly facilitated my admission to the Zouave 
 Corps. I like the life very much, and think it will suit me. 
 As to the food, it is much as you have heard it described, 
 except that we get a tin of coffee the first thing in the morn- 
 ing. The dress is grey cloth, trimmed with red cord ; it looks 
 very well. March weather here in Rome is far preferable to 
 March weather in England. T am well, save a slight cold. 
 
 April 13th. — I have delayed writing a letter in order to 
 tell you something about Holy Week in Rome. Since my 
 last letter we have removed from the barracks of St. 
 Callisto, which was situated at the foot of the hill on which 
 St. Peter was crucified — on the spot is a small church dedi- 
 cated under his invocation. The Basilica or Cathedral of 
 St. Peter is built over the tombs of the Holy Apostles, not 
 on the spot where they died. 
 
 We are now at the Torlonia barracks, only six minutes' 
 walk from St. Peter's, which is an advantage. I have had a 
 little to do in the sewing line lately, stitching on buttons, 
 &c., and I take my turn at othdr kinds of work ; as, for 
 instance^ to-day I am garde de chamhre, my duty is to be 
 on the watch for thieves and to serve out the coffee at 
 ^ve a.m., and sweep the rooms. At four p.m., I shall be at 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 49 
 
 liberty to go out and see the fireworks. In the meantime 
 I am employing my time in writing this to you on my 
 trunk, the latter on my bed. 
 
 We are rather crowded in this barracks just now, forty- 
 seven in one large room, but we expect to remove shortly, 
 and the weather is not very hot yet. 
 
 Now for a few words about Holy Week. I had no 
 military duty on Palm Sunday, so was able to hear two 
 Masses and to be present at St. Peter's to see the Pope, the 
 procession, and to hear the singing of the Papal Choir. I 
 could not for the great crowd get very near to see the 
 ceremonies performed. The procession was very fine, the 
 singing very fine also, the visitors very numerous, and 
 amongst them a great proportion of the higher classes. I 
 generally go to the English College for vespers and bene- 
 diction, which are there sung as in England. I was able to 
 hear six Masses in St. Peter's last week, also to be present 
 for the ceremonies of Good Friday and Holy Thursday, and 
 at St. John Lateran for the Tenebrse, and to mount on my 
 knees the Scala Saiida (or Holy Stairs) down which Our 
 Lord descended to death from Pilate's house ; to be present 
 at the Coliseum for the Stations of the Cross, as well as to 
 visit other churches for the Exposition of the Holy Sacra- 
 ment, and the Holy Sepulchre. But the great feast of 
 Easter was the day of days in Rome beyond everywhere 
 else, and I had the great pleasure of being placed on 
 picket in St. Peter's for the function of the day, viz., the 
 Celebration of Mass by the Pope. Was not that a great 
 honour for me so soon after my arrival ? 
 
 I will now tell you all about yesterday. After going 
 out to early Mass and Holy Comipunion, and then get- 
 ting breakfast we assembled for the apjoel and inspection 
 by the officer who commands tjie depot; the officer 
 after the appel passes down the ranks and looks to see 
 that all the men are clean in body and dress, also to 
 see if their arms are bright and in good condition. We 
 arrived at St. Peter's at nine. After entering the Basilica 
 we formed into line on either side of the nave (or rather in 
 
 4 
 
50 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouai^s. 
 
 two lines down the middle of it) ; we were about six hun- 
 dred in number (Zouaves) ; above us, near the Confession, 
 stood the Palatine Guard, composed entirely of civilians in 
 a pretty uniform, viz., blue coats, red trousers, gold scarves 
 and epaulets ; we were all armed, and our duty was to keep 
 a passage clear for the procession. 
 
 After some few preparations, the procession came in from 
 the Vatican. A more magnificent one can hardly be ima- 
 gined; first came the senators and suite, most brilliantly 
 attired, then the servants bearing the hats of the Cardinals, 
 the diff'erent Religious Orders, and the secular Clergy, in- 
 cluding the Canons of St. Peter's, next the Bishops, the Car- 
 dinals attendedby their gentlemen, and then the Holy Father 
 borne aloft on the Seclia Gestatoria, attended on either side by 
 the Noble Guard in their full dress uniform ; as he passed 
 between our lines the commands of^Portez armes" "Presentez 
 armes," " Genou a terre" were given, and we presented arms, 
 knelt on one knee, and saluted him with our right hands, 
 and received his blessing. I saw him perfectly, the sight 
 was a striking one, the face most benignant and yet so 
 noble ; I think it would be difficult to imagine how a inan 
 could be a better representative of our Lord ; none of his 
 portraits that I have seen do him justice. On his way to 
 the High Altar the Pope passes the Altar of the Blessed 
 Sacrament, on arriving before it he alights and goes on foot 
 to adore Our Lord. However high a man may be raised, he 
 must acknowledge his nothingness before God, and no other 
 teaches us this truth so well as the Catholic Church. 
 
 The crowd of persons who were in and about St. Peter's 
 yesterday was very great. At the Elevation was heard the 
 exquisite sound of the silver trumpets, and we presented 
 arms, knelt and saluted Our Lord in the Sacred Host. Soon 
 after twelve o'clock the procession re-formed and the Pope 
 ascended the Balcony of the east front, facing the Piazza of 
 St. Peter's, for the Benediction and Plenary Indulgence 
 " Urbi et Orbi," that is, " On the city and the world ;" we 
 could not get out far enough to see the Holy Father, but 
 received his benediction kneeling under the balcony. The 
 
Tifjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 51 
 
 Piazza of St. Peter together with the Piazza Rusticucci — 
 which opens out beyond it — stands on about seven acres (I 
 should judge) ; they were nearly filled with soldiers, car- 
 riages, and people. Last evening the fa9ade and dome of 
 the Basilica were illuminated, many persons declared it to 
 be the best they had ever seen. 
 
 The so-called silver trumpets played in the balcony over 
 the vestibule of St. Peter's on the entrance of the Pope, and 
 again during the Elevation, are not really of silver, but have 
 obtained the name from some cause, probably from the 
 beautifully mellow and silvery tone, descending from the 
 dome and spreading over the whole building, which is pro- 
 duced from the position in which they are played. 
 
 In the procession on Easter Sunday the Pope is always 
 accompanied by some pf the Noble Guard, who walk on 
 each side of him, and there is also an assistant prince, 
 besides which, there are other princes, ambassadors, the 
 generals of the army, as well as officers of all the different 
 corps, who take part in the procession. Other officers, either 
 pontifical or foreign, who choose to go in uniform are always 
 admitted inside the cordon of soldiers, there are usually a 
 great number, including several English; and there are 
 always reserved seats in a good position for the ladies, but 
 it is necessary to be veiled and dressed in black to gain 
 admittance. 
 
 The difficulties of the climate here in summer will be 
 compensated by the absence of hard work, and by being out 
 in the country, where we are expecting to be sent in a few 
 days. As regards hard work I have done none since my 
 arrival, at the same time you must not imagine that the 
 greater part of our time is at our own disposal for studying 
 languages, visiting interesting places, «fec. In the depots 
 our time is divided between drill, duty, such as picket, 
 guard, keeping our clothes in order, cleaning our arms, 
 belts, &;c., making up our knapsacks, with our overcoats, 
 tent, rug rolled round ; then we march out with all our kit 
 for inspection by the lieutenant, who remarks if even a 
 buckle is out of place. This morning our lieutenant and 
 
 4—2 
 
52 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 sub-lieutenant inspected all our effects in the barrack room ; 
 we had to brush up and arrange everything on our tent beds. 
 On passing the inspection we were each asked if we wanted 
 anything, if so, our names were entered and we were supplied 
 with all necessaries ; so you will see that between all these 
 several duties I find very little time for studying. As for 
 French, I learn it from conversation, but my progress is 
 slow, I find the pronunciation difficult, but I can catch 
 enough of the commands given to learn my drill nearly as 
 quickly as the Frenchmen who perfectly understand the 
 language. Several of the Englishmen who received me so 
 kindly at first are gone into companies in the country. At 
 first the recruits form a depot, to be drilled, and to learn the 
 details of a soldier's life ; as they advance they are drafted 
 off into companies. Of course I am still in depot, and expect 
 to be until I know my drill perfectly, when I can choose 
 my own company. Our barracks are called Caserma Tor- 
 Ionia. Although we have some inconveniences, we are not 
 now so crowded as we were, and we are very near to St. 
 Peter's, where I can go every Sunday. Some of those who 
 are gone into the country are nice fellows, and I miss them 
 now they are gone ; they came to Rome for a flying visit on 
 Friday last, they spoke of the life and food in the company 
 as a great improvement on those of the depot. 
 
 I was able to visit the Catacombs in Easter week, at least 
 that of S. Calisto, part of which was never entirely lost 
 sight of; it is entered from the Church of St. Sebastian. I 
 much enjoyed my visit there — but more another time on 
 the subject. The other day I descended to the tomb of the 
 Apostles in St. Peter's, and heard mass over it. I much 
 enjoyed the Feast of St. Joseph here ; also the fireworks and 
 illuminations in honour of the Pope in Easter week. 
 
 May 13th. — I expect to leave the depot very soon for the 
 2nd company, 1st battalion ; I have asked the Colonel to 
 pass me into that company and such requests are usually 
 granted. For the regular company arrangements are all 
 better than in the depot, where men are continually coming 
 and going. 
 
Two Tears m the Pontifical Zouaves. 53 
 
 Four of my friends have been passed into the 2nd of the 
 1st, at Ceccano. At their invitation, I took the opportunity 
 of the absence of most of our men (who were on picket for 
 the fete at Velletri) to go down and visit them, having pre- 
 viously obtained forty-eight hours' permission. I arrived 
 there at 6.30 p.m. on Monday week ; Mitchell met me at the 
 station ; all appeared pleased to see me, and we enjoyed 
 ourselves together very much, especially as we were amongst 
 such magnificent scenery. I made up my mind, after 
 visiting them and a little reflection, to ask to be passed into 
 their company. 
 
 Ceccano is situated about sixty-three miles south-east of 
 Rome, on the railway to Naples, in an immense valley 
 between two chains of high mountains, some of them on the 
 north-east even now snow capped; the valley is by no 
 means flat, but is diversified with hill and dale, prettily 
 varied by vineyards, gardens, and fields ; the towns help also 
 to complete the beauty of the view, being built on the tops 
 and sides of steep hills, the houses appear to rise perpendicu- 
 larly one above the other ; the whole completed by a pretty 
 brook washing the foot of the hill, the top of which is 
 crowned by Ceccano. 
 
 Amongst the most remarkable objects one sees from this 
 town are Monte Cacurae (a cone-topped mountain), Monte 
 Lupino, the towns of Frosinone, Padrico, and Polfi ; the high 
 mountains in the north-east forming the boundary between 
 the Pontifical States and the Piedmontese. The manners of 
 the people here are simple and industrious; the women 
 appear to be courteous and modest in their deportment. 
 Good crops of maize are grown here, and the fields seem to 
 be well cultivated. 
 
 It should have been mentioned before that the strength 
 of our regiment was raised to three battalions on Nov. 15, 
 1867, Captain D'Albiousse being appointed commandant of 
 the third battalion. 
 
 So great was the enthusiasm aroused among the Catholics 
 of France, Holland, and Belgium by the achievements of 
 the Pontifical army during the autumn of 18G7, that no less 
 
54 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 than fifteen hundred recruits for the Zouaves arrived in 
 Rome during little more than a fortnight. One account says 
 that on the day above-named there were eleven hundred men 
 in the depot, and among them were the Baron de Farelle, the 
 Comte de Montmorin, Mr. Vavasour, Mr. Hansom, M. Henri 
 de Riancey, and a number of young men belonging to the 
 first French and Belgian families. 
 
 About this time (May, 1868), a fourth depot was formed 
 in order to prepare the way to raising the strength of the 
 regiment to four battalions — the latter was accomplished 
 during the course of the summer. 
 
 In our army every one enters the ranks, no matter what 
 his station ^in life may be, so that we number a prince and 
 men of noble blood amongst the privates, as well as a good 
 many of high family, and a great admixture of the middle 
 classes. The Englishmen here are generally intelligent and 
 well educated; every one takes his chance of promotion, 
 those who understand the French language and know their 
 drill, and are the best educated stand the best chance of pro- 
 motion for the lower grades, but no one is excluded from 
 further advancement who has the requisite ability. Amongst 
 the officers are two Irishmen (Captains D'Arcy and De la 
 Hoyde) ; then there are Dutch, Belgians, Italians, Germans, 
 Spaniards (Prince Alphonse de Bourbon belonged to the 
 corps in 1869-70), not to mention the French, who are in 
 great force — most of them are of well-known Breton and 
 Vendean families. The commander-in-chief. General Kanz- 
 ler, is a Bavarian, and the Colonel (M. Allet) of our regiment 
 is a Swiss. 
 
 I am still in the first depot ; the third depot includes all 
 the Canadians who came out in the first detachment, the 
 Captain insists on their being thoroughly drilled, and they 
 promise to turn out good soldiers. 
 
 The drill was somewhat interrupted by the ceremonies of 
 Holy Week and festivities of Easter, but we get it regularly 
 again now once a day, and sometimes twice, the morning 
 drill lasting from 6 till 9 a.m. ; some remain in the depot as 
 long as six months. It has sometimes been said a man is no 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 55 
 
 soldier until lie has been in the "Salle de police" viz., a 
 mild kind of prison for slight breaches of discipline ; what- 
 ever truth there may be in this, I have been inside already, 
 and the reason was this — The barracks are generally con- 
 signed every morning till the report arrives from the Colonel. 
 I had obtained a verbal permission from our lieutenant to 
 go out before the report; on descending to the gate I was 
 stopped by the sentinel on duty, who referred me to the 
 corporal of the guard ; the latter refused to let me go without 
 a written permission ; but I felt strong in my right and 
 tried to enforce it, when I was immediately seized by the 
 corporal and taken to the sergeant-major, who having heard 
 the case decided that I must see the inside of the Salle de 
 police. I demanded to speak to the lieutenant as soon as 
 he came, I was however left to my own reflections for two 
 hours, to convince myself that I was really under mili- 
 tary discipline, and that another time it would be better 
 to obey first and reclaim afterwards. As severity was not 
 necessary to convince a recruit of this truth, two hours were 
 judged a sufficient punishment for the first time, and I was 
 then liberated. 
 
 As discipline cannot be enforced without punishments, 
 there are several kinds in vogue in our corps, the mildest form 
 being quatre corv^es a Voeily a corvee consisting of some kind 
 of fatigue duty ; next comes consignment to quarters for one 
 or more days, then Salle de police, and lastly, prison. The 
 two latter differ in that the confinement is not strictly en- 
 forced in the former case ; very often a man is not detained 
 at all, or only during the night, in which case he takes his 
 bed and sleeps there instead of in his usual place ; he is, 
 however, obliged to remain in barracks when not on duty. 
 The punishment of prison is given for more serious breaches 
 of disciphne, and no petty officer has power to award it to 
 any one ; when in prison a man is strictly detained and not 
 allowed to perform any military duty. As the Romans 
 as a rule follow out the teaching of the old proverb, "Early 
 to bed and early to rise make a man healthy, wealthy, and 
 wise," our evening appel is made at eight now, and every one 
 
56 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 must be in for it, unless he lias permission for ten o'clock, 
 which can easily be obtained by every well conducted soldier. 
 
 May 20th. — You tell me to avoid the dangerous evening 
 air ; with ordinary care it is not dangerous, for I am out in 
 it every night, and feel no ill effects from it, the truth is, 
 there is less twilight here than in England, and the change 
 from day to night is not so gradual, and therefore one 
 requires to take a little more care. As to the malaria it is 
 suj^posed to be an exhalation, arising from some parts of the 
 site of ancient Rome and the Campagna, late in the summer. 
 I hear nothing of it ; it has not been particularly hot here 
 yet, the weather having been rainy occasionally, and such 
 rain falls here as we do not usually see in England ; when it 
 rains here there is no mistaking it, " il tornbe de Feau" as 
 the French say ; we have not had much drill in consequence, 
 this morning, however, we had a military promenade, and we 
 were on the march, sac-d-dos, at 4.45 a.m. The reunion 
 of the companies took place at the Piazza del Popolo, we 
 then marched out of the gate near, in the order of our 
 respective companies into the country, the rain fallen j)re- 
 viously had made it dirty, otherwise it was a beautiful pro- 
 menade. We went through vineyards and gardens for 
 about two miles, then we followed the course of the Tiber 
 for some distance, and wound round towards the Farnesine 
 meadows, where we arrived at 6.45 a.m.; we pitched our 
 tents there and stayed nearly an hour, and afterwards 
 marched back to Rome another way, arriving there about 9 
 o'clock. 
 
 Cardinal D'Andrea was buried yesterday, the Pope offi- 
 ciated in person. I was present and heard him (being quite 
 near) read part of the Office most firmly and distinctly. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FEAST OF CORPUS CHRISTI — AT MONTE ROTONDO — PRO- 
 MENADE TO MONTE LIBRETTI — LIFE IN THE COMPANY AT 
 CECCANO — PIPERNO. 
 
 June 12th. — On mentioning Corpus Christi I can fancy you 
 will be on the " qui vive " to know all about the procession 
 in Rome on that day, so I will describe it as well as space 
 and time will permit. It commenced at half-past eight in 
 the morning, starting from St. Peter's and going round the 
 Piazza San Pietro and the Piazza Rusticucci. First came a 
 band, next a long procession of the different orders of monks 
 and religious congregations, a pretty train of innocents of 
 seven years, the orphans of Rome from that age upwards, 
 dressed in their costume of white, the clergy of the 
 principal churches of Rome, the bishops, the cardinals 
 with their attendants, after whom came the Holy Father 
 borne on the Sedia Gestatoria and carrying the Most Holy 
 Sacrament, and accompanied by the noble guard, dressed in 
 their magnificent imiform of scarlet and gold ; next followed 
 in order the Palatine guard, and the other military corps 
 with their bands, some of them playing beautifully, while the 
 rear of the procession was brought \ip by the gendarmes. 
 To give you some idea of the length of it, I have only to tell 
 you that it took an hour in marching out of St. Peter's. 
 I forgot to say that the whole length of the procession, 
 excepting under the colonnade, was canopied, the walls were 
 hung with tapestry, and the ground strewn with sand and 
 box the whole way, giving a festal, as well as pleasant ap- 
 pearance to the route. I was able to see very nicely all the 
 first part of the procession, including the Holy Father, the 
 
58 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 latter part I could not see so well on account of the crowd. 
 You may imagine I was very pleased to be present. At 
 lialf-past five in the afternoon, thirty-eight English, Irish, 
 and Scotch Zouaves went to the Vatican for the presentation 
 to the Holy Father of the Banner of Our Lady of Victories, 
 given to them by the Hon. Mrs. Kavanagh. The Pope re- 
 ceived us very kindly, and seemed pleased with the banner 
 (it is a splendid one worked with beads), gave us all his 
 blessing, and a medal of the Immaculate Conception ; he 
 noticed very kindly Mr. Vavasour, who accompanied us. I 
 am still at the depot, and in Rome the weather is pleasant, 
 except when it rains, as it did yesterday after the pro- 
 cession. 
 
 I have three or four friends amongst the Frenchmen, one 
 particularly named Mercier, with whom I came from Paris. I 
 have made it a point to be friendly with them on purpose to 
 learn the language, at the same time I could not give up en- 
 tirely the society of Englishmen. We expect to have some 
 fighting in the autumn, but it is very uncertain. 
 
 Monte Rotondo, July 7th. — We took our departure from 
 the Torlonia barracks, Rome, on June 23rd, for Monte 
 Rotondo, at two o'clock in the morning {sac-a-dos). I had not 
 been well for some days before, but did not wish to give up, so 
 started on the march ; but, however, before we got outside 
 the boundaries of Rome, I was obliged to stop, and in com- 
 pany with another (who could not continue the march), 
 went to the railway station and came by train, arriving 
 here a couple of hours before the others, who arrived about 
 eleven o'clock, most of them fatigued with their first march of 
 about eighteen Roman miles. We are quite near Mentana, 
 but we are much better placed here than there as far as 
 barracks go, our barracks here being an old palace built by 
 Prince Barberini, many of the rooms are magnificent, and 
 there are plenty of them, so that we are not crowded. 
 The scenery around in the distance is magnificent. A 
 tremendously abrupt transition from the quarters to the 
 catacombs. As regards the catacombs, I think any one 
 who has visited them and has read Canon Northcote's 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 59 
 
 small work on them, would know they were exclusively 
 Christian cemeteries. One of the catacombs, viz., St. 
 Agnes, is entered from an old sand pit for the better 
 security of its entrance ; but the two things are quite dis- 
 tinct, the latter being always dug where the soil is exclusively 
 sandy; the catacombs, never, for it would be impossible 
 for a cemetery, with six or eight graves one above the other, 
 to remain intact in a sandy soil. Again, they could not have 
 been Pacjan cemeteries, as we know the Pao^ans burned the 
 dead and placed their ashes in urns, a trace of which 
 practice is not seen in the catacombs : the oldest of which 
 date back as far as the apostolic times. 
 
 The church of St. Sebastian is reckoned one of the seven 
 ancient stationary churches of Rome ; it is situated on the 
 Via Appia, about a mile before arriving at the tomb of 
 Cecilia Metella, it contains a beautiful statue of the Saint in 
 a reclining posture ; underneath it reposes the body of the 
 ^eat Christian soldier and martyr. In the church are also 
 several interesting relics — amongst them the stone of the 
 paving of the Appian Way, which received the impression 
 of Our Lord's feet when He met St. Peter, and one of the 
 arrows which wounded St. Sebastian. The catacomb is 
 entered from the church ; on descending one is surprised to 
 find the air so clear and dry, and one cannot but be in- 
 terested in examining and exploring the innumerable pas- 
 sages striking off in every direction, which once formed one 
 of the great cemeteries of the early Christians, and where 
 one finds on every side the tombs of saints and martyrs. 
 The immense extent too of the catacombs is something 
 astonishing ; on every side of the waUs of Rome have 
 catacombs been found, or have been known to exist; and 
 the extent of some of them is very great. San Calisto and 
 Santa Agnese have passages so long as to give rise to the 
 idea that the former had one passage reaching to Ostia and 
 another to the Vatican. MuiTay estimated that there were 
 at least sixty different catacombs. 
 
 While at Monte Rotondo, we made a military promenade 
 to Monte Libretti, about twelve miles distant; it is the 
 
60 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 scene of a gallant stand made by ninety Zouaves against 
 1,200 Garibaldians, during the campaign of 1867 ; we saw 
 the gate near which the fighting had taken place, and where 
 Alfred Collingridge was mortally wounded before being 
 carried away a prisoner at Nerola. He died at the latter 
 place, but not before he had received all the consolations of re- 
 ligion, through the heroic conduct of Monsignor Stonor and 
 Madame Stone, who were taken prisoners by the enemy on 
 their way to aid him on his death bed ; but having asked 
 for an interview with Menotti Garibaldi (who commanded 
 the enemy's forces at Nerola), they obtained permission to 
 visit the gallant youth, who willingly gave up his life in 
 defence of the rights of the Church. His brother also 
 fought in that engagement, to drive back the enemies of 
 religion from the Pontifical frontier. 
 
 At the battle of Monte Libretti, when the ninety Zouaves 
 fell back to a position outside the town, before the im- 
 mensely superior forces of the Garibaldian enemy , the latter 
 refused to pursue them, so highly did they prize the courage 
 of their foe. 
 
 The town of Monte Libretti is situated on a steep rock 
 rising almost perpendicularly out of the surrounding 
 country, which is pretty and undulating, and there are 
 grand mountains for the background of the picture. We 
 pitched our tents in the valley below, having arrived at 
 8 a.m., rested and enjoyed a pleasant stroll, and started to 
 return about 3 p.m. Our lieutenant took us a different way 
 back, all across the country, over hill and dale, field and 
 brook; we were well tired on arriving, but no one was 
 knocked up, as we did not carry our knapsacks, but only 
 rifle, tent, sword, belt, and cartridge-box. 
 
 ' Camp, Rocca di Papa,' August 4th. — You will be pleased 
 to hear that I passed into the 2nd Company, 1st Battalion, 
 on the 17th ult. We have a good Captain, who has a care 
 for his men, and I have very pleasant companions. I am 
 pleased with the change and now we are all in Camp, I have 
 an opportunity of meeting again my old friends both French 
 and English, whom I left in the depot. Having passed into 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 61 
 
 the company at Ceccano, I thus went there again, and was 
 as well pleased with it the second time as the first. It is 
 really a magnificent neighbourhood for scenery. Seeing as 
 I did the grand and lofty mountains, I could not restrain my 
 •desire to mount one, and descend the other side, so just a 
 fortnight since, after obtaining one day's permission from the 
 CJaptain, we started at five a.m., and arrived at the foot of 
 the mountain soon after seven ; after taking a refreshment of 
 pears, bread and ricotia, or sweet cheese, at a farm-house, we 
 commenced to ascend and found it very difl[icult, in some 
 places we were obliged to climb with our hands as well as our 
 'feet. The scenery was very beautiful and the horizon clear, 
 so that we could enjoy it very much; it only wanted a view of 
 the sea to complete the picture. After six or seven halts we 
 reached the top, but we had to descend a short distance to 
 obtain a good view of the other side, which was very gi-and 
 indeed ; opposite to us was another range of mountains, and 
 beneath a well watered plain. There was a choice of towns 
 to make for : at our feet was San Stefano, a small town ; in 
 the distance on the right was Piperno, a town of considerable 
 importance ; on the left was San Lorenzo. 
 
 We decided to descend to San Stefano first, and then to 
 the river for a bath. After resting a short time, we accord- 
 ingly descended the mountain — which occupied longer than 
 I expected, viz., about two hours. 
 
 The mountain is about 3000 feet high, and the descent is 
 excessively steep in some places. San Stefano is built on 
 one of the lower slopes of the mountain, but we did not find 
 it particularly interesting, however we found an'Osteria* 
 where we were able to get some dinner, consisting of eggs, 
 bread and wine ; afterwards we went on to the river, where 
 we had a cooling bath, for it was a hot day ; I then proposed 
 to return as we were due at Ceccano at nine o'clock, but I 
 gave way to my two companions, who wished to go on to 
 Piperno. — I am forgetting to say that my two companions 
 were Mandy and R. . . . After crossing a second river — a 
 beautifully limpid stream, and a long walk we arrived at Pi- 
 perno at seven, rather fatigued, as you may imagine. 
 
62 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 On arriving, our first care was to go to the ' Gendarmeria ' 
 and explain the reason why three Pontifical Zouaves came 
 to * Piperno ' with a permission marked ' San Lorenzo/ As 
 the gendarmes generally exhibit the utmost confidence in 
 the good faith of the Zouaves, we managed our business there 
 pretty easily ; in fact, the Brigcidier was courteous enough to 
 advise us not to attempt to return that night — as my two 
 companions proposed doing, and he wrote a line on the per- 
 mission, saying that we could not return until the next day, 
 so that we had something with which to appease the Captain 
 on our return. We found a good Albergo, where we were 
 provided with some good wine with our supper and comfort- 
 able beds. 
 
 We reconnoitred the town, and started to return at eight, 
 the next morning. On our way we had an opportunity of ob- 
 serving the beautiful scenery around. Piperno is situated on 
 a steep hill, and there are fine olive groves near it as well as 
 vineyards ; on one side of it rises the mountain of Rocca 
 Secca, and across the broad valley, a chain of the Volscian 
 mountains, including Monte Cacume, Monte Lupino, and 
 others. As our road lay along the valley for seven or eight 
 miles, we had a good view of the mountain scenery on both 
 sides of us. 
 
 We enjoyed another bath — in the clear river to-day, and 
 had a little pistol shooting with our revolvers and pistols on 
 the banks of the river. On leaving the valley and taking a 
 turn to the left, we had to cross a very difficult country. 
 The corn was cut and carried from the fields. We crossed 
 some very deep ravines and the beds of mountain torrents, 
 and went straight ahead for Giuliano, which is a lovely place 
 on a lower slope of the mountains. We did not enter the town, 
 but kept to the left, and crossed the mountains, there being 
 here a break or immense defile in the range ; here we saw a 
 series of mountain scenes on a smaller scale, viz., hill and dell 
 but covered with olives, vines, or greensward — the last is 
 rather rarely seen in Italy in summer. We reached Ceccano,. 
 after walking hard in the hot sun, ac about 4 p.m., and escaped 
 all punishment by going to the Captain at once, making a 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 63 
 
 clean breast of it, and by showing him the line written by 
 the gendarme. The Captain asked us, however, how we 
 came to go so far without rifles, but when he learned that 
 we carried revolvers, he was satisfied, but wondered how 
 we could walk so many miles merely to see the country, but 
 he remembered that we were ' Anglais.' In two days we 
 had walked nearly forty miles, in a blazing sun in July — 
 ascending and descending a mountain included. 
 
 Coming from Ceccano by rail to Rome, we slept two nights 
 at the Termini Barracks, and from thence marched here. 
 
 There are clouds in Italy as elsewhere, and it rains too 
 and no mistake, but the air is generally much clearer and 
 lighter than in England, and in spring and summer the 
 weather is usually fine. 
 
CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 MARCH TO THE CAMP OF ANNIBAL — ROCCA DI PAPA — LIFE 
 IN CAMP — LAKE NEMI. 
 
 Two battalions, viz. the 1st and 2nd, started from Kome at 
 eight o'clock at night, July 31st. Our company, the 2nd 
 of the 1st battalion, being near the front, we had the pleasure 
 of hearing the band, which preceded the regiment, and en- 
 livened us with inspiriting airs. We left Rome by the Porta 
 San Giovanni, and had not passed it an hour before we were 
 overtaken by the most tremendous rain I have ever experi- 
 enced. It was a heavy thunderstorm, in about three 
 minutes we were wetted through to the skin, and the water 
 ran out of our trousers. We continued our march, and my 
 
 English comrades, Messrs. Bishop, Mandy, Vrain, R , and 
 
 I, kept up our spirits by singing all the tunes w^e could 
 recollect that were suitable for marching. At the last halt 
 before arriving at Grotta Ferrata, I gave up a tin hiclon I was 
 carrying outside my sac to Vrain, with the only cigar I had 
 left, and my sac was much lighter afterwards. We arrived 
 at Grotta Ferrata about 1 a.m., and rested there for our 
 principal halt. 
 
 E and I made the best of our way into the town to 
 
 get some wine and something to eat, to warm ourselves a 
 little after our soaking; afterwards we joined our comrades 
 in making a large fire near the town to warm and dry our 
 clothes ; for this purpose we both carried away the whole of a 
 dead hedge we found near, and by this means made a capital 
 bonfire, got up the circulation again, and dried our clothes. 
 We did not scruple about taking the hedge, as the case' was 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 65 
 
 one of downright necessity, and soldiers are often obliged to 
 take what they can lay hands on. 
 
 The rest of our comrades who had remained in or about 
 the field where we had stacked arms outside the town, were 
 obliged to content themselves with a small portion of wine 
 served out to them, and with preparing to boil some coffee ; 
 the latter was interrupted by the order of the commandant 
 to march ahead at once, without waiting for the coffee. 
 After starting we missed Mandy and R for some dis- 
 tance, but they joined us before we commenced ascending 
 the mountain up to the camp. We had been ascending 
 gradually for some distance before making our grand halt ; 
 but when nearing Rocca di Papa, about 4 a.m., we began the 
 steep ascent which leads up to that town, and to the table- 
 land called the Camp of Hannibal ; it was, indeed, trying to 
 climb a steep mountain, carry rifle, sword, ammunition (sixty 
 rounds), knapsack, blanket, overcoat, tent, and sticks, and 
 walk in shoes so softened by the rain that we felt every 
 stone we trod on ; however we cheered ourselves by 
 singing, by the prospect of the new life in camp we had 
 before us, and by the delightful scenery we saw around us 
 as morning dawned. The rain slackened before we arrived 
 at Grotta Ferrata, and had ceased altogether by daybreak. 
 My English comrades and I were proud to be able to march 
 in at the head of our company, I was very pleased to have 
 so well got through my first march under such difficult 
 circumstances. 
 
 I ought to mention that the march was commanded to 
 take place during the night, in order to avoid the great 
 heat of the day, and that the rain was somewhat unusual. 
 Thus, perhaps, the authorities were a little taken by 
 surprise. 
 
 Canfip, Rocca di Papa, Aug. 24ith, 1868. — In your last 
 letter you speak of having visited Oxford ; the colleges there 
 are without doubt noble buildings and monuments of the 
 zeal for learning and sound education of our Catholic an- 
 cestors. I have seen the exterior of them, but have not yet 
 visited the interior. A thought, however, strikes me, that 
 
 5 
 
6Q Tivo Years in the Fontifical Zouaves. 
 
 they do not in some respects equal the Roman College or 
 the Sapienza, both of which are magnificent buildings ; the 
 former bounds two very considerable streets, and while one 
 end of the quadrangle faces one piazza, the other, comprising 
 the fine church of St. Ignatius, forms a splendid facade to a 
 second. This church contains several rich altars, but that 
 of St. Aloysius is its chief attraction ; underneath it is a 
 small marble statue of the saint spurning the world, which 
 is represented by a globe of lapis-lazuli ; above the altar is 
 a beautiful statue of the saint, and under it reposes his 
 body. On the Feast and during the Octave it would be 
 difficult to imagine anything more resplendent than the 
 sight presented at this altar, so great is the devotion of the 
 Komans to St. Aloysius, and such good taste displayed in the 
 decorations, lighting up, &;c. On the opposite side is the 
 altar of B. John Berchmans, another youthful saint, and its 
 beauty is second only to that of St. Aloysius. The rooms 
 of both these saints are shown in the college, but I have not 
 yet seen them. All instructions given in the college are 
 gratuitous, books and paper being brought by the students 
 themselves. A man might begin in elements, and go up as 
 far as philosophy, theology, and astronomy, without paying 
 a farthing for one of the lectures given. 
 
 I am sorry to hear you have Jiad such very hot, dry 
 weather in England this summer ; it has not been so ex- 
 tremely hot here in camp. I must now tell you some- 
 thing about the camp. It is situated on a high plain, 
 about one mile in diameter, nearly surrounded by the peaks 
 of Monte Cavi, Monte Pila, and another lower mountain ; 
 there is an opening on the side of Eocca di Papa, and a 
 very precipitous descent into the valleys below. We are 
 about two thousand six hundred feet above the level of 
 the sea ; from the highest part of the camp above Rocca di 
 Papa we have a beautiful view of the sea, the Campagna 
 and city of Borne, about eighteen miles distant, and the 
 lovely blue lake of Albano. We are on the crater of an 
 immense volcano, although many ages extinct ; the cinders 
 are still to be seen compact and perfect, and forming the 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 67 
 
 subsoil. Tlie Lakes Albano and Nemi arc two other craters 
 of volcanos ; they are surrounded by the steepest mountains, 
 and the scenery around is as lovely as may be imagined. 
 I have been able to bathe twice in Lake Albano, and I 
 enjoyed it very much. The mountains round are princi- 
 pally wooded, the lower slope at one place is cultivated, and 
 produces vines and olives. The descent is generally so steep, 
 that there are but few places that one can possibly get down 
 to the lake. It is two and a half miles long by about two 
 broad, the depth is very great ; at the shore, in one place, 
 there is a more gradual slope, and here it is very suitable 
 for bathing : this is on the Marino side, or north end of the. 
 lake. Castel Gandolfo is pleasantly situated above the lake 
 on the west, and farther on are Albano and Ariccia, both 
 fine old towns. Leading from Albano to Ariccia, is a fine 
 viaduct of three tiers of arches, each sixty feet in height, 
 spanning the deep ravine ; this must have cost a great sum, 
 so great is its length and height above the valley. It is 
 one of the' many great works which Pius IX. has caused to 
 be executed during his reign. 
 
 Rocca di Papa is undoubtedly one of the most healthy 
 spots in the Pontifical States for a camp in the summer, the 
 great height being available both for avoiding the great heat 
 of the day, and the fogs of the Oampagna at night ; I find it 
 much cooler here at midday than in Rome, and not so damp 
 at night as at Monte Rotondo. We all, including officers, 
 sleep under tents of canvas in our clothes on the ground — a 
 little straw separating us from mother earth — with a small 
 blanket wrapped over us. I have got quite used to the 
 tent now, and have not felt the cold since the first three 
 niirhts. We rise now at five, a.m., and are called into ranks 
 at half-past, with knapsacks, carbine, sabre, &;c. Our ex- 
 ercise lasts till eight, then we clean up carbines, sabres, 
 belts, gaiters, etc., then walk to the fountiiin half a mile dis- 
 tant and take there a good wash, return, and make up our 
 "sac" for the a2)]oel propre, sao-d-dos, at twelve o'clock. 
 Amongst these duties we eat our soup at ten ; if we are not 
 on guard, picket, or corvee, we have the other part of the 
 
 5—2 
 
68 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 day to ourselves to sleep, mend our clothes, meet our friends,. 
 or do pretty much as we like till nine, when the evening 
 appel is made. I cannot complain myself, but some of the 
 men of the depot say they found it hard work here in camp, 
 and particularly at first, as there was a corvee every day 
 called out for duty on the military road being made up to 
 camp. 
 
 We had the Holy Father here on the 10th instant; there 
 was a stage erected for his reception and for the celebration 
 of Mass, which he said in the presence of the officers and 
 men composing our brigade, he afterwards received the 
 officers. The Holy Father appeared pleased to be amongst 
 his soldiers ; there were rejoicings in camp, for his soldiers 
 are always pleased to see him amongst them, and he left 
 for Rome in the course of the afternoon. 
 
 All the superior officers of our brigade are with us in 
 camp, the brigade consisting of four batteries of artillery^ 
 two squadrons of Dragoons, one or two companies of engi- 
 neers ; the whole regiment of the Zouaves, excepting the 
 company " hors rang" nearly five thousand strong, and the 
 battalion of the Pontifical Cacciatori. The other brigade of 
 the army encamped here before us. Rifle shooting formed 
 part of our exercises lately, we fired ten rounds each; I 
 did nothing, but Mandy fired very well. After plenty of drill, 
 we have had two sham fights, one on the side of Albano 
 over a very difficult country — this was a trying day for me 
 as I was not well. After participating in all the movements 
 and firing ofi" all our ammunition, we took the town of 
 Albano by storm, and marched victoriously through it. 
 The other sham fight took place before Rocca Priora, and 
 it was a great success, although our men were not victorious, 
 and we did not succeed in taking the town, notwithstand- 
 ing that our artillery kept up a heavy fire on it, but then 
 the position was very strong, on a steep hill, which it tried us 
 to mount at a quick pace. We were deployed as skirmishers, 
 and carried all our kit, and the place was well defended by 
 our own Zouave depots, assisted by artillery placed in a 
 commanding position. The fight over, we bivouacked a 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 69 
 
 short distance below tlie town, and thoroughly enjoyed our 
 soup, wine, fee, after our hard work, lasting several hours, 
 in a difficult country. 
 
 We made {i.e. several English comrades and myself) two 
 excursions to Monte Porzio, when the English College and 
 the Oblates of St. Charles were staying for their Ville- 
 giatura. The English College received us as usual most 
 kindly, and accompanied us part of the way back. We 
 passed the ruins of Tusculum, once an important city of 
 ancient times, down to the middle ages, and in some respects 
 a rival of the Eternal City, but afterwards entirely destroyed 
 by the Romans in A.D. 1191. 
 
 On the site of the ruined city a cross has been erected by 
 the College, and it is visible for some miles. We also 
 passed the fine monastery of Camaldoli, and not far off 
 we saw the Jesuit coUeci^e of Mondraoroni. The modem 
 Frascati is built on the side of the hill of Tusculum, and it 
 possesses some fine olive groves, and produces good oil and 
 
 wine. While in camp, Mandy, R and I descended for a 
 
 bath to Lake Nemi, after crossing part of Monte Cavi. 
 We commenced to descend over a very broken country to 
 the rocky mountain in which the lake — like an immense 
 basin of untold depths — is situated; this lake is, indeed, 
 very beautiful, though with a beauty different to that of 
 Albano, for Albano is beautifully blue, wliile Nemi is a deep 
 green. After descending somewhat, we pass through the 
 town of Nemi, and then commences the difficult part of the 
 road, for the precipitous rocks are nearly perpendicular, and 
 it is only by following the tortuous path, bending first to 
 the right and then to the left, that one can descend at all. 
 Near the shore of the lake on this side is a most productive 
 soil, in which peaches, apricots, and vines grow with wonder- 
 ful luxuriance. We found the bath very refreshing after 
 our hot walk, and much enjoyed it; and afterwards, before 
 ascending, we were enabled to taste some of the fruit grown 
 in this most delightful spot. In the town we tasted some 
 of the wine of Nemi, and pronounced it excellent, and we 
 enjoyed it as we sat in a kind of balcony outside the Albergo, 
 
70 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 and then discussed the possibilities and probabilities as to 
 the nature of certain craft we saw passing at sea in the far- 
 off distance. The shades of evening were closing over us 
 as we left Nemi, and then dawned upon us the thought that 
 we had a difficult path to find, an arduous road to walk, and 
 an ascent of some fifteen hundred feet to mount, about 
 eight miles in length, a great part of it through woods, 
 where it was very easy to lose oneself, and, added to this, 
 the prospect of "Salle cle police'' and "corvee de quartier" 
 on the morrow if we missed the nine o'clock appel. Under 
 these circumstances there was no time to be lost, that was 
 certain, so after reaching the ledge of the mountain cliff, 
 Mandy led the way through the woods at about the rate of 
 ^ve miles an hour, and fortunately he remembered the turn- 
 ings, and we got out all right, for as we descended Monte 
 Cavi to the camp, we saw the depots going through the 
 illuminated figures of the Lieutenant-Colonel — this was an 
 amusement got up by him in honour of the visit of the 
 Holy Father to camp, and the depots were then rehearsing 
 it. They carried lamps of various colours, and the effect 
 was certainly very pretty, and we then knew we were in 
 time for the appel. 
 
 One of the adjuncts of the camp was a military hospital,^ 
 and it was necessary enough too, for a good number of men 
 were ill from the effects of the soaking they got on the 
 march out, and the dampness of the ground consequent on 
 the tremendous thunderstorm ; for the first three nights we 
 found it cold lying on the ground, but afterwards we slept 
 comfortably enough. I may mention that it was very un- 
 usual for the ground to be so damp in the summer, as the 
 weather is generally fine and dry throughout ; hoAvever, the 
 greater part of those ill recovered, but we lost two Irishmen,, 
 and poor Mitchell died in hospital in Rome, of Roman fever 
 caught at Ceccano : he was never very strong, and had 
 suffered from fever soon after arriving. Bequiescat in 
 pace ! Our chaplains were with us, and were very attentive 
 to the patients, one of them taking his turn of guard every 
 night. There were services in French, English, and Flemish, 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zovxives. 71 
 
 and confessions heard in these languages in the church of 
 Bocca di Papa. The Dutch were conspicuous for their 
 good attendance. Fr. Gurdon, our chaplain, got up a tea- 
 fight for the English and Irishmen ; it took place near the 
 edge of the precipitous roCks hard by the camp fountain, 
 most of the fellows came, and we spent a very pleasant 
 social evening together. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EETURN TO ROME — LIFE AT THE SORA — MONTI AND 
 TOQNETTI. 
 
 September 14th. — The first four companies of the first 
 battalion of Zouaves are quartered at the Sora Barracks, the 
 head quarters of the Zouaves. On the whole, it is the 
 cleanest and most comfortable barracks I have been stationed 
 at yet ; in the way of lodging it is a very pleasant change 
 from the camp, and as the weather is not, on the whole, so 
 remarkably hot in Rome now (though Sunday was rather 
 hot in the afternoon), I enjoy the change. Unless there is 
 a campaign, which is altogether uncertain, we expect to 
 remain here at least four months. The second and third 
 battalion are gone, or going into the country. After they 
 are all gone out I expect we shall have a good share of ser- 
 vice in the way of guard, picket, and patrol, otherwise I 
 think we shall be rather comfortably situated here. 
 
 We returned from camp on Saturday, September 5th. 
 We started at two, a.m., and arrived three miles out- 
 side of Rome by eight o'clock. We bivouacked in a 
 field near an aqueduct at a point where the road 
 passes under it; the day was exceedingly hot, and it 
 was difficult to find a shady place in which to rest out of 
 the sun, so that we were far more fatigued than if we had 
 marched right into Rome without any long halt. In addi- 
 tion to our own kit, R and I both carried a bidon — a tin 
 
 used either for carrying water or for boiling it — outside of 
 our " sacs." As we marched in between five and six in the 
 evening, I felt very much inclined to fall out, for I was very 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 73 
 
 tired, and we felt the heat very much before passing the 
 Porta San Giovanni ; however, I kept on. At the gate we 
 were formed into double file, then four deep we marched 
 into the city in regular order, preceded by the band. Crowds 
 of people were collected at the gate and along our line of 
 march, especially at the Piazza Colonna, where we were 
 drawn up before separating for our different barracks. Every 
 one who had any " espirit de corps" did not mind his fatigue, 
 but marched with spirit to the sound of the music through 
 the streets to the Piazza above mentioned. After waiting 
 there a quarter of an hour we felt stiff on starting again, 
 and were well tired by the time we got to barracks. I 
 was much more fatigfued after this march than after the 
 march to the camp, although we then mounted such an 
 ascent to Rocca di Papa. 
 
 Rome, September 27th. — Our military service consists 
 principally of guard, picket, and patrol. Now we are in 
 Rome we have no drill, at least we have had none as yet 
 since we arrived from camp. The weather is occasionally 
 varied with heavy thunderstorms, but is generally clear, 
 pleasant, and much cooler. Although the storms here are 
 very heavy — the rain is especially heavy — I have never 
 heard of any damage being done to life or buildings by the 
 lightning, all important buildings of great height being pro- 
 tected by conductors. 
 
 I have heard nothing further lately of a campaign, but of 
 course here we are ready to defend Rome and the States in 
 case they are attacked. In case of a campaign I will attend 
 to your wishes, so that you shall know the result of any 
 battle as soon as possible. I have visited St. Peter's once 
 since our return from camp ; the Vatican Palace is attached 
 to St. Peter's. It is not that I am tired of St. Peter's that 
 I visit it so seldom, but I am much farther off than before, 
 and there are other cliurches near ; for instance, the Chiesa 
 Nuova of the Oratorians, where is the shrine of St. Philip, 
 and the fine church of St. Augustine. The Chiesa Nuova 
 contains many pictures of great merit, and the exterior 
 fagade is very imposing. The entrance to the shrine is 
 
74 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 covered with ex votos, offered in thanksgiving for favours 
 received through St. Philip's intercession. 
 
 St. Philip's memory is held in great veneration here, and 
 the title of "Apostle of Rome" has been accorded to him. 
 His Feast is a holy day of obligation in the city, and the 
 Holy Father goes in great state to this church for the High 
 Mass, and to venerate his relics. When his tomb was last 
 opened in the reign of the present Pope, his body was found 
 to be incorrupt. St. Philip effected an immense amount of 
 good in reforming the manners of the Romans of his day. 
 
 The Palazzo Massimo, which is near, contains a room 
 which was the scene of one of the miracles wrought by St. 
 Philip Nei'i. The nephew of the prince was here raised from 
 death to life by the intercession of the saint. This fact is 
 commemorated every year on the 16th of March, the day on 
 which it took place, and the room is on that day thrown 
 open to the public. The interior of the church of St. 
 Augustine is very fine, and beautifully painted with the 
 different scenes of the life of our Blessed Lady, and the mys- 
 teries of the Holy Rosary. Below these paintings are the 
 holy women of the old law, who were her types. The high 
 altar and tabernacle are both very rich ; above is an ancient 
 painting of the Madonna, which is not often exposed. 
 
 The beautiful statue of the Blessed Virgin — La Madonna 
 del Parte — is very much venerated by the people, and is 
 enriched by a large number of ex-voto offerings. This is 
 the Mother Church of the Augustinians, is much frequented 
 by all classes of the Romans, and is a favourite church of 
 the Zouaves. I have also visited lately Sant' Andrea delle 
 Fratte ; it was here that Alphonse Ratisbonne was miracu- 
 lously converted in 1842, by an apparition of the Blessed 
 Virgin. As the inscription in one of the chapels tells us " he 
 went into the church an obstinate Jew, and came out soon 
 after a Christian," a living miracle of the mercy of God and 
 the powerful intercession of our Blessed Lady, which cannot 
 be disputed by any one willing to believe the evidence of his 
 senses. I have also visited the tomb of St. Cecily, in the 
 Trastevere, and admired the beautiful statue of white marble 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 75 
 
 over it representing the martyred Saint ; she shares with 
 St. Agnes the honour of being the most famous Virgin 
 Martyrs of Rome. 
 
 As at present thjre is no cercle, or club, for the English 
 and Irish Zouaves, I go to the Belgian Cercle to write my 
 letters, to read the newspapers, and to get a beefsteak when 
 I want one. None of the Zouave cercles are exclusively 
 opened to one nationality ; thus, every Zouave is at perfect 
 liberty to enter the French Cercle and play at billiards, 
 chess, cards, read, write, attend the Italian class, or take 
 his dinner at the restaurant. I often go there, and some- 
 times to the Canadian Cercle also, but as every one feels most 
 at home in the company of his own countrymen, I oftener 
 spend my evenings with my own particular English friends, 
 
 R , Mandy, Bishop, and others, either in the Caffe Luigi, 
 
 when we go in for ten o'clock permission, or else we hold a 
 "parliament" (thus named by Mr. Bishop), after the appel, 
 
 the seats being furnished by the beds of R and mine own, 
 
 which are side by side. The evening appel is now made 
 at eight, but the silence is not sounded till ten, so that we 
 have two hours for our discussions. We often muster to 
 the number of five, including the three above-named, Mr. 
 Thornton, of the third company, and myself. The subjects 
 are various, the discussion generally interesting and very 
 animated, but the conclusions not always unanimously ac- 
 cepted. Mr. Bishop is an excellent disputant, as his educa- 
 tion and former profession necessarily make him. 
 
 Rome, October 30. — You think I must have a pleasant life 
 of it in Rome, attending all the grand services, &;c. I must 
 admit I like the life on the whole, but you must not imagine 
 it to be very smooth and easy, for it is not, as we have a 
 great deal of service or work, which often prevents us from 
 attending the Festas, or from seeing as much of Rome as 
 we would wish to do ; but as it is all for the Holy Father, 
 and as we are able to have Mass three or four times a week, 
 besides on the Sunday, and can often visit the Quarant' Ore 
 in the evenings, we ought not to complain. The Forty 
 Houi-s' Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament goes on per- 
 petually in Rome, excepting from Good Friday morning till 
 
76 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Holy Saturday after Mass, continuing generally two days 
 in every church named in a list in its turn. As there are 
 about three hundred and sixty-five churches in the city, 
 there are double the number required, in order that every 
 one be taken in turn once a year. 
 
 There are trials and difficulties in our life as in every 
 other, and I am sorry to have to mention that some of the 
 Englishmen — some on account of ill health, and some for 
 other causes — have lately felt the barrack life too hard for 
 them, and have gone, or are going, home ; amongst them are, 
 
 I regret to say, M and B ; Mercier, my French friend 
 
 tind instructor m his language, is also going for the same cause. 
 On the whole our numbers are not diminishing, as a good 
 many recruits have come out ; I know also that many who 
 have already served in the Zouaves would return, were there 
 any prospect of a campaign against the Garibaldians. It is 
 not that they fear to meet the enemy, but they dislike the 
 monotony of every-day life and work in the barracks. 
 
 The tir, or rifle practice, has lately been added to our other 
 duties, our company going out one day in the week. We are 
 mustered into ranks by daybreak, and then march out to 
 the Farnesine Meadows, which are near the Ponte Molle — the 
 ancient " Pons Milvius," the scene of the celebrated victory 
 of Constantino the Great over Maxentius. It takes two 
 hours at least for the whole company to fire the requisite 
 number of shots. If the day be fine I rather enjoy the prac- 
 tice, but if it should be cold it is not so very agreeable — 
 
 more as to the results next time. W. R has lately passed 
 
 into our company, so we are now three Englishmen together, 
 two having left. 
 
 At present I do not often see an English paper, but I 
 make up by reading the French and Italian. However, we 
 look forward to seeing them regularly as soon as our new 
 English Library is opened ; the arrangements are delayed 
 in consequence of Mgr. Stonor's absence. 
 
 The Sora barracks is near the Chiesa Nuova and the 
 Piazza Navona, and the English College is not far off*, in the 
 Via Monserrata. Although I lost two friends last month, as 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 77 
 
 I told you, I have still two left, and we continue to hold our 
 " parliaments " after the appel, the members mustering still 
 
 to the number of five. W. R , R , and I are nearly 
 
 always together, and we are always talking English, so that 
 I do not improve in French so much as I could wish. As 
 my friend and instructor in that language' has returned to 
 France, and it would be hard, and even unwise, to give up 
 altogether the companionship of Englishmen for others, it 
 cannot be helped. 
 
 You are rather mistaken in supposing there are never any 
 frosts in Rome ; during this month the weather has not been 
 so agreeable — it being now the rainy season here — and there 
 have been a good many wet days, or days on which rain fell; 
 and when it has been clear the nights and mornings have 
 been cold, with slight frosts. We are exempt from fog 
 during the day — one blessing. 
 
 Although our Library is not yet opened, we have been able 
 lately to see most of the English Catholic newspapers, through 
 the kindness of Fr. Gurdon, one of our chaplains. My own 
 opinion as to the decease of the old Tablet is, that the editor 
 made a mistake in supporting Mr. Disraeli, after the latter 
 refused to do justice to Catholic Ireland, by disestablishing 
 the Irish Church, The manifesto of Dr. Vaughan, the editor 
 of the new Tablet, was, I thought, a very good one. 
 
 You wish to know the difference between guard and 
 picket. The difference is this: when a soldier goes on 
 Cfuard, he takes his arms, and at least twelve rounds of car- 
 tridges, his knapsack with overcoat and rug rolled and placed 
 round it ; with this he has to pass the parade or inspection 
 of the Captain Adjutant Major, who sees that he has every- 
 thing clean and bright, otherwise he (the Captain Adjutant) 
 inflicts some punishment. The parade finished, the private 
 marches off under the conduct of his chef de poste, to relieve 
 his comrades who have mounted guard the day before ; 
 arrived at their destination, the requisite number of senti- 
 nels are conducted to their posts, where they receive the 
 consign, i.e., the nature of the things or circumstances they 
 have to watch over, from those they relieve. The sentinel 
 
78 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 remains standing, or walking about within twenty yards of 
 Lis sentry-box for two hours, during which time it is for- 
 bidden to sit down, to talk without necessity, to read, or 
 smoke ; but he must keep a sharp look-out for anything 
 which may happen in the neighbourhood of his post. At 
 the end of two hours the sentinels are relieved by others of 
 their comrades who have come with them, and who have 
 been reposing meanwhile in the guard-room, or within call 
 of the bugle. Of the twenty-four hours of the day and night, 
 a man gets from four to eight hours as sentinel, though far 
 oftener the latter than the former number ; his meals are 
 brought to the guard-room from the barracks by -one of his 
 comrades, and he remains on or near the spot for the twenty- 
 four hours, ready to defend it against all attacks, and even 
 to pursue an enemy who might venture to attack the post. 
 
 The business of a picket is to strengthen the guard, and 
 to be ready in case of any attack being attempted ; but the 
 duty is generally much less arduous than that of guard ; for 
 instance, there is always a picket named for the Sora Caserne, 
 but it often happens that a man on this duty has nothing 
 whatever to do excepting to be present in some part of the 
 barracks, in case the sergeant of the guard takes it into his 
 head to call the picket down. Sometimes a picket is a 
 guard of honour to the Holy Father, stationed at different 
 parts of the line of route he takes when he goes in state to 
 some church, and there is then also a picket inside the 
 church ; sometimes pickets have to be furnished to the 
 theatres to prevent any disturbance, but then the duty only 
 lasts during the performance. 
 
 You desire to know what kind of work we have to do. 
 The following will give you an idea. Suppose that on 
 Monday I am named for the Garde Boyale; the parade 
 being at eleven, the morning would be occupied in prepara- 
 tion. Tuesday, I finish my guard, arriving at barracks at one. 
 Wednesday morning occupied by target practice, the after- 
 noon in cleaning carbine, &;c. Thursday, corvee de soupe, the 
 duty consisting in taking the meals to the men on guard. 
 Friday, patrol through the streets in the evening, either 
 
Two Years in ike Pontifical Zouaves. 79 
 
 from six till ten, or in the night from ten tiU two. Satur- 
 day morning partly occupied in'preparation for inspection of 
 some sort in the rooms, this taking place between twelve and 
 two, during which liours on Saturdays we are usually con- 
 signed to ban-acks and the care]of the guard — sometimes it is 
 an inspection of arms, sometimes of all our military effects ; in 
 either case it is necessary to have everything in order, and 
 clean. Sunday, planton at the],Ministry of War, a service I 
 sometimes get instead of guard, and it does not involve so 
 much preparation. If to the above you add the stitching 
 that must be done occasionally ,fand recollect that we have 
 always to keep ourselves clean and tidy, you will be able to 
 imagine that sometimes at least we are fully occupied. 
 
 It should be mentioned, however, that anyone who 
 chooses to pay an " ordonnance," (as a private who does 
 the clearing up for a comrade or superior is called), can 
 easily find a Dutchman who will be only too glad to save 
 him some of the above work for a recompense of a few sous 
 a day, and the ration of bread. I have chosen to do my 
 own work as yet, as it is best for every one to know how to 
 do it, in case he may be obliged to fall back upon himself; 
 however, I occasionally pay a man to take my place for some 
 of the service, such as corvees ; and, as I have not been very 
 well lately, I shall get myself replaced for my guard to- 
 morrow, for our doctor here will not often give one exemp- 
 tion, unless one is seriously ill. 
 
 I saw the two conspirators, who blew up the Serristori 
 Barracks last year, executed on Tuesday last. I was on 
 picket to keep order, in case of any attempt being made by 
 the Garibaldians to get up any demonstration in their 
 favour. It passed ofi* very quietly, at 7 a.m., the criminals, 
 Monti and Tognetti, having previously begged pardon, for 
 the offence of blowing up the barracks of their comrades 
 and killing thirty Zouaves in cold blood, begged their 
 prayers, and showed signs of great penitence. 
 
 This conspiracy of Monti, Tognetti, and others, fostered 
 by the secret societies, was a most cowardly and diabolical 
 one, its object being to destroy simultaneously the chief 
 
80 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 barracks of the Zouaves, and the whole of the military hos- 
 pital of Santo Spirito, and thus annihilate in cold blood the 
 soldiers whom they had been unable to conquer in the 
 Held. This deeply laid design was, however, frustrated 
 by an over-ruling Providence, as the following circumstances 
 will prove. The trains were laid underneath the Serristori 
 Barracks, with ramifications under the very extensive hos- 
 pital of Santo Spirito, and the quarters of the " Garde 
 Moyale" in the Piazza San Pietro, as well as under the 
 Sora, and other Zouave barracks. The ringing of a certain bell 
 at an understood hour was to be the signal for the different 
 conspirators to fire the trains, and blow to atoms the hated 
 forestieri (foreigners,) including the wounded in hospital with 
 the Sisters of Charity, and their other attendants ; but for 
 some unexplained cause the bell was rung an hour too soon, 
 before all the arrangements were complete, only the train 
 under the Serristori exploded, and blew up the place with 
 thirty Italian Zouaves of the band, the other men having 
 been called out for some duty ; thus the conspirators were 
 entirely baulked in their purpose, and only destroyed their 
 own countrymen, for not one of the forestieri perished. 
 
 Monti and Tognetti, although guilty, as they themselves 
 admitted, were not the ringleaders of this conspiracy ; 
 these latter managed to keep clear of the Roman police. 
 Their design will be ever held in universal abhorrence, 
 especially as in case of its being successfully carried out, it 
 would not only have cost the lives of the soldiers and 
 Sisters of Charity of the military hospital, but probably 
 also of a large number of civilians, principally women and 
 children, inmates of another hospital, immediately opposite 
 the former one. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 IN HOSPITAL —LIFE IN ROME AT THE CASERMA DEL GESU — 
 THE VATICAN — ST. PETER's. 
 
 Nov. 30th. — Went into the hospital of Santo Spirito, suf- 
 fering from an attack of pleurisy, which had been coming 
 on for some time, but which I had not paid much attention 
 to. 
 
 Dec. 5th. — R wrote a few lines for me, saying that I 
 
 was ill in hospital. 
 
 18th. — I am now much better, though still at Santo 
 Spirito. I have been bled once, and had leeches applied 
 twice. The doctor ordered me to be bled a second time, but 
 rs I demurred to this, he acquiesced, and next day he found I 
 ^/as perfectly right in remonstrating, for I was better with- 
 out having been bled. We have Mass said every morning 
 in the room in which I am, and the Rosary and Litany of 
 Loretix) in Latin every evening. The chaplains of all the 
 different nationalities come round very often, so that we 
 have all spiritual advantages to avail ourselves of here. 
 
 The Sisters of Charity superintend the management, they 
 are very kind, but there are very few of them in com- 
 parison with the number of sick. Under them is an 
 infirmary corps of attendants, all soldiers. I have been 
 comfortable here on the whole, having had plenty of friends 
 to see me, and plenty of books and newspapers to read. 
 
 R has come several times. As regards the farm 
 
 which H has written about, I do not see how I can 
 
 break my two years' engagement here for a chance of getting 
 that, nor do I wish to break it ; having enrolled myself as a 
 defender of the Holy Father, I should like to carry out my 
 engagement, and to be as good as my word. 
 
 6 
 
82 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 25th, Christmas Day. — We had Midnight Mass and Holy 
 Communion, the Mass being said in the large room in which 
 I am, the other two Masses ofthe day being said at half-past 
 six and seven o'clock. Altogether, very nice for Christmas 
 Day in hospital. I enjoyed very much hearing the bells 
 rung during the early morning. In the evening we had a 
 grand Benediction in the other large room above our own ; the 
 Canadian Zouaves, came in to sing for us ; some beautiful 
 flowers, both natural and artificial, adorned the altar. 
 
 Dec. 31st. — I am glad to say I came out of hospital on the 
 29th, and came out cured, too, only of course slightly weak 
 after being there a month, and the greater part of the time 
 in bed. At present I am staying at a room in town kindly 
 lent me by a comrade, having for this purpose the permis- 
 sion of my captain; I expect, however, to return to the 
 Caserne and my duty very soon. 
 
 Jan. 23rd, 1869. — Our company has changed its number 
 and battalion. It is now the 1st company ofthe 3rd Battalion, 
 and we are quartered at the Gesu. You are not far wrong 
 in your supposition of the duties of a jplanton, although the 
 duties vary with the different posts — for instance, at the 
 Ministry of War, the principal part of the duties consists in 
 delivering some letters, and for the rest of the day remaining 
 about one's post, where one can read, talk, or smoke, and 
 take a look at the Dragoons, Avho are stationed close hy. 
 The duty finishes at four p.m., and commences next day at 
 nine. At the hospital the duty consists in attending a sick 
 man twenty-four hours, and it is more or less arduous, 
 according to the nature of the disease and the disposition of 
 the patient. The danger of contagion is slight, as I have 
 never yet heard of a Zouave catching any disease from 
 attending a sick man in hospital ; indeed, the Roman fever 
 and the majority of hospital cases are not contagious. I may 
 add that I do not see any prospect of my having this latter 
 duty to perform. 
 
 Some time ago I promised j^ou a description of what I 
 saw on the Feast of St. Cecily, November 22nd. I attended 
 the Vespers at the Basilica of the Saint, in the Trastevere. 
 
As St. Cecily is the })atroness of music, the very highest 
 talent of R«»iiu' i> engaged to do honour to her Feast, and 
 very splendid indeed is the result. The Basilica dates from 
 the time of the Saint herself, viz., the commencement of the 
 third century, and was formed out of her own house, after 
 her martyrdom, which took place in it. It consists of a 
 nave and two aisles, and is of the form called Basilica — 
 /.'., i\\i' nave is completed by a semi-circular tribune or apse, 
 the floor of which is raised several steps above the nave, and 
 forms the choir : the high altar immediately over the shrine 
 of the Saint is placed at the intersection of the nave and the 
 clioir,.so that when the priest celebrates Mass he faces the 
 people in the nave. On the ceiling of the apse are interest- 
 ing mosaics of the time of Pope St. Pascal. The recumbent 
 statue of the martyr underneath the high altar is very beau- 
 tiful. Outside of the aisles are several chapels : into one of 
 these one descends by a few steps from the church. Tliis is 
 the " sudictor'iwm" of the bath in which St. Cecily was slmt 
 up for three days to be suffocated for her faith. Slie how- 
 ever survived, and was afterwards clumsily beheaded. This 
 spot was most interesting to me, and I could see that the 
 arrangements for heating the room were the same as I had 
 seen in the ancient Roman villas discovered at died worth, 
 Gloucestershire. 
 
 This Virgin Martyr's history is most interesting, on account 
 of the numerous conversions to Christianity she caused by 
 the influence of her example and prayers, the most re- 
 markable of these being the conversion of Valerian, to whom 
 she was betrothed, he being an officer of the Emperor Alex- 
 ander Severus, of his brother Tiburtius, and of the centurion 
 Maximus, who was leading the two former to execution, 
 but was converted by their courage and readiness to die for 
 their faith. All three suffered together about the same time 
 as St. Cecily. As is usual on all festas in Rome the Basilica 
 was tastefully decorated and illuminated. 
 
 The English Zouave Library, situated at 91, Piazza della 
 Valle, and opened last month, is a great boon to us. It 
 is open every day till ten p.m. It consists of a library 
 
 Q-2 
 
84 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 of instructive and amusing books, of a reading-room, 
 writing ditto, with materials supplied. Of others — one of 
 which is to be a billiard-room, and another to be a refresh- 
 ment-room, while a third will be used as a small chapel, in 
 which we can assemble occasionally for a No vena. Father 
 Gurdon lives here also, and occupies one room, Mr. Johnson, 
 the Zouave secretary, one, and there is one spare bed-room 
 for any one or two Zouaves who may be spending a few days 
 in Rome, on permission from their company in detachment 
 in the country. 
 
 We have a fire in the reading-room — quite a luxury in 
 Home, — a piano, chess, draughts, cards, and the English 
 Catholic newspapers, as well as L Univers and Galignani, 
 provided for our amusement and reading. Opposite the 
 Library is the fine old church of Sant' Andrea della Valle, the 
 fagade of which is one of the finest in Rome. During the 
 octave of the Epiphany I had an opportunity of seeing the 
 fine group of the "Adoration of the Magi," which was 
 erected above and behind the high altar. The different 
 figures of the group were very good, and particularly those 
 of our Blessed Lady and the Holy Child ; and also the dress 
 and attitude of the three kings offering their gifts. There 
 were masses in the different Oriental rites, and every after- 
 noon and evening there was a grand Benediction, with a 
 Te Deum. After the last the figure of the Holy Child was 
 taken round to be venerated by the people, who came up to 
 the altar rails. The different services were every day well 
 attended. The Archbishop of Westminster preached on the 
 octave day, and he had a large audience of English visitors, 
 both Catholic and Protestant. 
 
 Feb. 18th, 1869. — With the exception of abstinence from 
 meat on Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, we have no 
 difference made in our diet for Lent, as a soldier's profes- 
 sion exempts him from fasting, and we are sjoecially dis- 
 pensed from abstinence. The Carnival certainly made a 
 difference to us, as we had more work to do. It came to the 
 turn of our battalion to do duty as a picket every alternate 
 day, or nearly so. The carnival out of doors is brought to a 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 85 
 
 close every day by a horse race, and the duty of a picket is 
 to preserve order and to keep the Corso clear during the 
 race, the crowd being generally a very dense one. Zouaves 
 in uniform — like all the other soldiers — are supposed not to 
 take part in the carnival in the Corso, i.e., not to throw 
 
 confetti or bouquets. W. R. and R managed, 
 
 however, to enjoy themselves by throwing a few confetti 
 occasionally, on the last day. They received several bouquets 
 from the ladies in the balconies, and threw others in return. 
 I was on guard, so did not see any of the fun on that day ; 
 but I suppose I must give you a little description of it. The 
 carnival takes place in the Corso — one mile long — every 
 house of which has several projecting balconies, one above 
 the other, filled with ladies and gentlemen, wlio choose to 
 hire them for the occasion. Many of these take an active 
 part in the fun by showering down confetti on the passers- 
 by — tall hats are considered fair game, and generally come 
 in for a full share of peppering. These compliments are 
 returned by those below, and regular battles of confetti 
 ensue. If the gentlemen in the streets fight well they are 
 generally rewarded by bouquets from the ladies above. All 
 kinds of costumes are seen in the streets made up of a variety 
 of colours. The confetti used are made of flour, and re- 
 semble sugar plums in appearance and size. 
 
 The Carnival commences on the Saturday week before 
 Ash Wednesday, and is observed in the Corso on five other 
 days, the two days immediately preceding the commence- 
 ment of Lent are generally the days on which the most fun 
 is enjoyed ; it opens from two to three o'clock in the after- 
 noon ; soon after five, eight dragoons ride at a gallop up and 
 down the Corso, to clear the way for the horse-race then about 
 to take place ; six horses without riders are then started from 
 the Piazza del Popolo, and being frightened by the strange- 
 ness of the spectacle which meets their eyes on every side, 
 gallop off at full speed down the Corso — the only avenue 
 open to them — the spectators on both sides do their best to 
 increase the speed of the animals to the utmost, the pace is 
 generally pretty fast. The horses are caught and stopped 
 
86 Tvjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 after passing the Piazza di Venezia by canvas hung across 
 the streets, and the winning horse is led off with musical 
 honours. This race concludes the outdoor carnival of each 
 day, except the last, when the whole Corso is illuminated^ 
 and a great number of people rush about with Tnoccoletti — 
 candles, and the fun consists in blowing out other people's 
 candles, and in keeping one's own lit. The two friends above- 
 mentioned enjoyed this last very much. 
 
 March 5th, 18G9. — At present the whole regiment of the 
 Zouaves is attending a spiritual retreat ; there are preachers 
 for the different nationalities at the different churches. The 
 retreat for the English, Irish, and Scotch is being given by 
 Father Vincent, a Maltese Passionist. He has done a great deal 
 of good in England, where he resided eighteen years. I do 
 not know whether it was at Broadway that he stayed. We 
 have Mass and a sermon at eight a.m., and another sermon 
 and Benediction at four p.m. I hope it will do us good, as. 
 we want rousing a little. 
 
 I have taken part in two sham fight's lately, the first of 
 which took place beyond the Tre Fontane, on the Yia Ostia. 
 The most remarkable feature of this field-day was a magnifi- 
 cent cavalry charge, executed by the Dragoons in prime 
 style ; the other took place on the Via Aurelia, or Civita 
 Vecchia road. Although the fighting up and dovv^n hill was 
 preciously hard work, there was of course no opportunity for 
 any great feats of bravery ; but in this engagement we were 
 victorious, and what more could be asked of us ? Mr. 
 Vavasour has left the Dragoons, and is now a Zouave again 
 in Captain D'Arcy's company. I see him at the Library 
 occasionally. 
 
 The Holy Father resides at the Vatican now, he has not 
 resided at the Quirinal since he was driven from it by the 
 Eevolution of 1849. I have seen part of the Palace of the 
 Vatican ; although the exterior is not particularly imposing. 
 It is the most interesting, if not the largest palace in the 
 world, and its interior is one of the most splendid; the 
 galleries of monumental inscriptions are full of interest, the 
 most ancient being Pagan inscriptions, the Christian have 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 87 
 
 been taken from the Catacombs. Then there are courts of 
 sculpture containing some of the finest works of the 
 ancients, such as the famous Apollo Belvedere, the Laocoon, 
 the Antinous, the Egyptian Museum containing the cele- 
 brated mummies and embalmed bodies of individuals who 
 lived some thousands of years ago. There are two splendid 
 sarcophagi of red porphyry of immense size, which have 
 occupied twenty-five years in being restored. I went 
 yesterday to see the picture-gallery, and saw there the very 
 choice collection by many of the most renowned painters the 
 world has produced. Here are the famous " Transfigura- 
 tion " of Raffaele, the " Madonna, di Foligno," the " Corona- 
 tion of the Blessed Virgin," by the same master. The " Trans- 
 figuration" is considered to be the first in order of merit of 
 any painting in the world. Near the picture-gallery are the 
 rooms which contain the tapestry made after the twelve car- 
 toons of Rafiaele. The stanza of Raffaele contains a series 
 of historical paintings in fresco of sacred subjects from the 
 Creation of the world to the Redemption. The Sistine 
 Chapel is not open to the public. It is in the Vatican, not in 
 St. Peter's. There is also a large garden and several open 
 courts within the precincts. The Belvedere is a very fine 
 portion of the palace, and, as its name implies, commands a 
 splendid view of the Campagna, the city, and the snow- 
 capped Apennines. I also visited St. Peter s, and saw the 
 place marked out, and seats being erected for the General 
 Council, which is to be held in the north transept, that being 
 sufficiently large to furnish several hundreds of seats. 
 
 BT. PETER'S. 
 
 ** But lo ! the dome, the vast and wondrous dome, 
 
 To which Diana's marvel was a cell, 
 
 Christ's mighty shrine above His martyr's tomb. 
 
 But thou of temples old, or altars new, 
 Standest alone, with nothing like to thee, 
 "Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. 
 Since Zion's desolation, when that He 
 Forsook His former city, what could be 
 
88 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Of earthly structures, in His honour piled, 
 
 Of a sublimer aspect ? Majesty, j 
 
 Power, glory, strength, and beauty all are aisled 
 
 In this eternal ark of worship undefiled. 
 
 Enter : its grandeur overwhelms thee not ; 
 And why ? it is not lessened ; but thy mind, 
 Expanded by the genius of the spot. 
 Has grown colossal, and can only find 
 A fit abode, wherein appear enshrined 
 Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou 
 Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined 
 See thy God face to face, as thou dost now 
 His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by His blow. 
 
 Not by its fault, but thine. Our outward sense 
 
 Is but of gradual grasp, and as it is 
 
 That what we have of feeling most intense 
 
 Outstrips our faint expression, even so this 
 
 Outshining and o'erwhelming edifice 
 
 Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great 
 
 Defies at first our nature's littleness. 
 
 Till, growing with its growth, we thus dilate 
 
 Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate." 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 As I have not yet given you my impressions about St. 
 Peter's, I will say a few words about this, the finest Christian 
 temple of the world. Viewed from the Piazza San Pietro, 
 the fagade is very grand and imposing, the height is so great 
 as to hide somewhat the view of the dome, which is such a 
 striking feature of the edifice. The farther, however, we re- 
 cede from it, the more this splendid feature is unfolded to 
 our view. On ascending to the Porta Cavaleggieri, the pro- 
 portions of the dome and the Basilica are seen to great 
 advantage. In the far off distance, the first object which 
 will meet the eye of the pilgrim or traveller to distinguish 
 the Eternal City is the cross surmounting the fine cupola of 
 St. Peter's. 
 
 The portico is worthy of the fine temple to which it is the 
 entrance. A story is told of an American tourist who^ 
 seeing its magnificent proportions, fancied it must be the 
 Basilica itself, and said, " Oh, yes, 'tis a very fine church," 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 89 
 
 and went home satisfied that he had seen St. Peter's. On 
 passing into the interior we are at once impressed by a 
 feeling of wonder at its colossal proportions ; and whatever 
 we may have thought previously, we cannot but admit the 
 magnificence of what we see before us. At first we cannot 
 think of details : it is the grand whole that strikes us. We 
 approach and kneel, with deep feelings of veneration, at that 
 shrine which has been the object and term of so many 
 pilgrimages, the confession or tomb of the glorious apostles 
 SS. Peter and Paul. We then take a glance at the principal 
 features of the interior. The high altar — placed as explained 
 before in the case of the Basilica— is immediately over the 
 tomb of the Apostles, under the centre of the dome. Over 
 the altar is a splendid baldachino, or canop}^, made from the 
 bronze taken from the Pantheon. It is about ninety feet 
 high : the confession is partly surrounded by a marble 
 balustrade on the side facing the nave : inside of this a 
 great number of lamps are always kept burning. The 
 dome which surmounts the whole is one of the gi'eatest 
 wonders which Christian art has ever produced. Any one 
 who has visited the Pantheon or Rotondo, and reflects that 
 this dome represents the Kotondo, raised about 200 feet into 
 the air, will have some idea of its immensity, in fact the 
 area covered by it is that of a fair sized church. Its interior 
 magnificence is of the first order, and it would be difficult 
 to imagine greater beauty of ornamentation. Above each 
 of the pillars is a superb mosaic of one of the four Evan- 
 gelists. The proportions of these four mosaics can be im- 
 agined from the fact that the pen in the hand of each is six 
 feet in length. 
 
 These few words will give but a very imperfect idea of 
 this, the great triumph of the skill of Michael Angelo, and 
 of the energy of the great Pope Sixtus V., under whom it was 
 carried out and completed. 
 
 Of the four statues which ornament the pillars of the 
 dome I was struck more particularly by those of St. Helen 
 and St. Veronica. The celebrated lions, too, of Canova, 
 are marvellous triumphs of the chisel. The copies in 
 
90 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 mosaic of the most celebrated paintings in tlie v/orld 
 which we see forming the altar-pieces at so many points in 
 the Basilica, are marvellously executed, so faithful are they 
 to the original, that an unpractised eye would not discover 
 that they were not the paintings themselves. The plan 
 of the Basilica is that of a cross ; the nave, the choir, 
 and the aisles forming the longer portion, and the transepts 
 the shorter one. The dome is placed at the intersection of 
 the nave and the transepts. 
 
 The building of the present Basilica was commenced in 
 1450 : it was consecrated in 1626. Thus it appears that 
 176 years were spent in building it, at a cost which shows 
 how Rome honours her apostles. The diameter of the dome 
 is 195 feet ; from the pavement to the top of the cross is 434 
 feet ; from the entrance to the chair of St. Peter is 613 feet. 
 At the transept the width is 450 feet ; the nave is 88 feet 
 wide, and 146 feet high ; the aisles are 24 feet wide. The 
 holy water vases are supported by angels six feet high, 
 though^ on first beholding them, you will suppose them to be 
 of the ordinary height of little children, so great is the size 
 of the building. 
 
 In the choir, at the extreme end, is the chair of St. Peter, 
 placed on high, and enclosed in a beautiful bronze chair. 
 This is the same chair which the apostle used in the 
 house of Pudens the senator. It is supported by four 
 colossal figures in bronze, which represent the four doctors 
 of the church. From the gallery over the statue of St. 
 Veronica are shown, on Easter Sunday and other festivals, 
 a relic of the true cross, part of the spear which pierced our 
 Lord's side, and the handkerchief of St. Veronica. 
 
 The tabernacle of the altar of the chapel of the blessed 
 Sacrament is in the form of a round temple, decorated with 
 twelve pillars of lapis lazuli. It is twenty feet high, and 
 was executed from the designs of Bernini. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 SANTA SABINA — FEAST OF ST. JOSEPH — JUBILEE OF THE HOLT 
 FATHER — ST. GEORGE. 
 
 We have a very good opportunity of knowing how things 
 are going on in England when we choose to read the news- 
 papers which remain here (at the library) from Thursday 
 till Monday, when they are sent to the Zouaves in the 
 country. 
 
 On the 24th ult. four of us visited the convent and church 
 of Santa Sabina, which is situated on the Aventine — a strong- 
 position, now fortified, on the south side of Rome. We were 
 
 introduced by Father Sadoc Sylvester, a friend of R and 
 
 myself, from the Minerva. In the church we saw the 
 splendid painting of Our Lady giving the Holy Rosary to 
 St. Dominic, and to St. Catherine of Sienna, by Sasso 
 f errata. Under the high altar are the bodies of several 
 martyrs ; among them that of St. Sabina. The room of St. 
 Dominic, now converted into a small chapel, is shown in 
 the convent; and an orange tree in the garden, planted by 
 this Saint himself, from which I send you a leaf From the 
 balcony of the convent one can enjoy a splendid panorama 
 of Rome and the neighbourhood. 
 
 Close to Santa Sabina is Sant' Alessio. The body of this 
 Saint reposes under the high altar; and the stairs under 
 which he lived are kept in the church as a relic. In the 
 underground church of San Clemen te are several interesting 
 pictures describing different phases in the life of this Saint. 
 His father lived on this spot on the Aventine, and was 
 
92 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 a. wealthy patrician. St. Alexius went to the Holy Land as 
 a pilgrim, and when he returned to his home his parents no 
 longer recognized him, but consigned him to the "stairs," 
 and the care of the servants, at whose hands he received 
 some ill-treatment. This he suffered patiently, and died a 
 holy death, after revealing his history to his parents. 
 
 The church and establishment of the Gesu occupies an 
 irregular quadrangular site of considerable extent, each side 
 of the quadrangle bounding a street ; our barracks forms one 
 side, and is entirely cut off from the part occupied by the 
 Jesuits. We are able, however, from some of our windows, 
 to obtain a view of their orange garden, which was a 
 beautiful sight before the severe frost of this winter de- 
 stroyed the. oranges. This garden is amongst the different 
 buildings, and this, as well as several open courts— like the 
 ^' atria " of the ancients — form part of the arrangements of 
 every considerable building in the city, and every part of 
 the whole is by this means furnished with light and air. 
 
 My friends and I are pleased that we are likely to remain 
 in Rome for the present ; and we are pleased, also, for many 
 reasons, to be so well placed as we are here at the Gesu. 
 
 Low Sunday, April, 1869. — The Feast of St. Joseph is 
 always a grand one in Rome. I enjoyed it very much this 
 time, as I was not on duty except for the military Mass. 
 Afterwards we visited San Stefano Rotondofor the stations. 
 Round the walls of the church — which is circular — are a 
 large number of fresco paintings, illustrating in a very 
 remarkable and life-like manner the different kinds of torture 
 inflicted on the martyrs and the death they suffered for the 
 faith. The paintings are arranged in chronological order, 
 which is very convenient. On the same day were com- 
 memorated the Seven Dolours of our Blessed Lady at the 
 <jhurch of Santa Maria in Via, near the Corso, where there is 
 a statue — Santa Maria Addolorata. This statue was carried 
 in procession through several streets, including a part of a 
 Corso, preceded by members of the Confraternity, carrying 
 banners, the Cross, &;c., by religious of different orders, the 
 Eishop carrying a relic, and followed by a military band. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. OS- 
 
 playing appropriate music. We were able to fall in with the 
 procession at several different points, and were much pleased 
 and edified by it. 
 
 There are two churches in Rome, the interiors of which 
 are principally of the Gothic style, viz., Santa Maria sopra 
 Minerva and the Redcmptorist Church of our Lady of Per- 
 petual Succour, on the Esquiline ; the latter is, in my 
 opinion, a very pretty church. T like the nave, chancel, and 
 side-aisles of the Minerva ; but the effect of the Gothic here 
 is marred by the Roman of the other part of the church. In 
 my humble opinion, the two styles never do well mixed, as 
 the solidity and the heaviness of the one destroy the light- 
 ness and elegance of the other. You ask if I admire the 
 Roman style. I certainly do ; and I think it very well 
 suited to Rome. I do not think any one can deny its 
 grandeur and beauty when well carried out, and ornamented 
 with beautiful marbles, porphyries, alabaster, lapis lazuli, 
 mosaics, frescoes, &c., as we see it here. For example, take 
 St. Peter's, justly acknowledged to be the most magnificent 
 church of the universe. 
 
 On Good Friday we visited Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 
 in order to see and venerate the sacred relics of the true 
 Cross: — one of the nails with which Our Lord was cruci- 
 fied, two thorns of the crown of thorns, the finger of St. 
 Thomas, wliich he placed into the sacred wounds, a large 
 portion of the cross of the good thief, and the title of the 
 true Cross. All these precious reKcs are preserved with the 
 greatest care in the monastery attached to the church, and 
 it was a great privilege to see them, to venerate them, and 
 to be able to touch some of them with our sabres. This 
 church is named " The Holy Cross in Jerusalem," because 
 here is kept not only part of the Cross of Our Lord, but also 
 part of the earth of Mount Calvary, which was brought here 
 by St. Helen, the mother of Constantino the Great, and to 
 contain which the church was built. These facts are well 
 authenticated in history. We next visited the Scala Santa — 
 holy staircase — the very same that Our Lord ascended to 
 Pilate's house. "We mounted them, as do all penitents, on 
 
i)i T'wo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 our knees; then we entered St. John's Lateran for the 
 Miserere, rendered magnificently by the splendid choir of the 
 Basilica. While there I met Father Canty, who took me 
 into one of the beautiful chapels — I think the Corsini. We 
 descended into a crypt, and there saw the very finest Pietd^ 
 which, in my opinion, I have ever seen, not even excepting 
 the one. by Michael Angelo in St. Peter's ; the attitude of the 
 whole group was perfect. In the evening we went to the 
 church of SS. Yincent and Anastasius, at the fountain of 
 Trevi, for the " Ora desolata" of the Blessed Virgin. The 
 service consisted of sermons in Italian, interspersed by verses 
 of the Stabat Mater and other appropriate music. The latter 
 was very plaintive and good; but of the sermon I could 
 understand but very little. I did not hear the Miserere in 
 the Sistine, as private Zouaves, or other soldiers are not ad- 
 mitted ; but I heard it sung in St. Peter's on the Wednes- 
 day, and I was told by a person who heard it sung in both 
 places, that he preferred that sung in St. Peter's on Wednes- 
 day to that sung in the Sistine on one of the other days. 
 
 The singing of the Sistine choir is of a peculiar character, 
 and every one does not appreciate it. Anyhow, the Wed- 
 nesday Miserere of St. Peter's was very beautiful and plain- 
 tive, and to get in a good position to hear it, it was 
 necessary to put up with the pushing and jostling of a very 
 eager and anxious crowd, as well as to stand for more than 
 two hours of the time a solemn Tenebrse requires. The 
 Palm Sunday procession is a grand one, consisting of 
 members of the difierent religious orders, parish priests, 
 Monsignori, Cardinals with their attendants, the Holy 
 Father borne aloft on the "Sedia Gestatoria," surrounded 
 by the Noble Guard, and followed by some of the 
 ambassadors in grand costume, by the officers of the different 
 corps of the army in full dress, all carrying palms in honour 
 of the triumphal entry of our Lord into Jerusalem. Amongst 
 the visitors on that day, and on Easter Sunday, we noticed 
 several English officers in uniform, which they are expected 
 to wear on grand occasions, so as to be able to enter the 
 * A Fietci is the dead Body of Our Lord in His Blessed Mother's arms» 
 
~ Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. ^o 
 
 cordon of the military on duty in the Basilicca of St. Peter. 
 Amono-st them was a General, but I do not know his name. 
 There have been a great number of visitors this year for the 
 ceremonies of Holy Week, amongst them a large proportion 
 from our own country. May the sight of the splendour of 
 the offices of Holy Church, as compared with the coldness of 
 Protestant worship, have some effect on their minds and 
 hearts ! 
 
 On Easter Sunday all the troops available were assembled 
 to receive and be present at the Apostolical Benediction, 
 which takes place after the Mass ; the Holy Father gives it 
 from the balcony of the portico of St. Peter's, overlooking 
 the Piazza. I suppose you know the Benediction conveys a 
 plenary indulgence to all in a state of grace with the con- 
 dition of Confession and Communion. The booming of the 
 cannon of St. Angelo announced the conclusion of the solemn 
 blessing. Cheering followed. The Holy Father stopped a 
 few moments to look at the multitude of all nations there 
 gathered together, and then the assemblage began slowly to 
 disperse. Although the weather was stormy, it did not seem 
 to have the effect of keeping many people away. 
 
 I had an opportunity of reading a summary of the case of 
 " Saurin v. Starr." I can understand its causing a great 
 sensation in England. Although for many reasons it would 
 have been better if the parties could have settled their 
 differences without coming before the public, I think there 
 has been one good result of the trial, it has shown the Pro- 
 testant world that when a convent was laid bare no real 
 scandal could be found in it. 
 
 May 1st, 1869. — It was indeed a great day here on the 
 11th of April last, being the jubilee of our Holy Father, i.e.^ 
 the fiftieth year of his priesthood completed. The rejoicings 
 lasted three days, commencing on the Saturday, wlien the 
 .city was all alive with carts and waggons loaded with pre- 
 sents of corn, wine, oil, flowers, besides many other things too 
 numerous to mention, all to do honour to our Holy Fatlier's 
 jubilee. In the evening the Basilica of St. Peter, including 
 the dome, was illuminated ; first takes place the silver illu- 
 
96 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 mination — this lasts during the first hour — when suddenly, 
 in the course of some few seconds, the design of the illumi- 
 nation is changed by the lighting up of 500 larger additional 
 lights, which throw a " golden " shade over the whole — this 
 is the golden illumination. The whole is a splendid thing, 
 and I have heard no one say that they have seen anything 
 better of its kind. 
 
 I was present in St. Peter's for the Mass of the Holy 
 Father on the Sunday. There was assembled a remarkable 
 and eager crowd almost entirely of Catholics, and it was 
 necessary to put up with a considerable amount of pushing, 
 and to elbow one's way through the closely-packed assem- 
 blage even to catch a sight of the Holy Father. 1 believe 
 he was employed for a great part of the morning afterwards 
 in receiving addresses of congratulation from the Diplomatic 
 Corps. Even the Queen of England and Emperor of "Russia 
 sent him their felicitations. At four p.m. he appeared at the 
 balcony overlooking the Piazza San Pietro, to hear the 
 singing of some music, including Gounod's hymn, specially 
 composed for the occasion. This was performed by a band 
 and a larg-e number of sino^ers chosen from the different 
 corps of the army ; among them were a great many Zouaves. 
 The singing was considered very good ; the crowd assembled 
 to hear it was considerable, and at its conclusion the Holy 
 Father bestowed the Apostolical Benediction on all present. 
 In the evening there was a grand display of fireworks, some 
 of which were very pretty. On the Monday, which was the 
 anniversary both of the Holy Father's return from Gaeta in 
 1849, and of his wonderful preservation from injury when 
 the floor of the room gave way at Sant' Agnese in 1855, 
 the whole city was beautifully illuminated in the evening, 
 the crowds of people to be met with everywhere were enor- 
 mous ; the whole thing was a great success. But I need 
 not enter into particulars, as I suppose you have seen it all 
 described in the columns of the Tablet 
 
 I am forgetting to mention the review of all the troops 
 at present in Bome, which took place on Easter Monday in 
 the Villa Borghese ; the Commander-in-Chief, General 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 97 
 
 Kanzler, reviewed us. On the occasion several of the 
 visitors — among them General Slade, an Englishman — ex- 
 pressed themselves much pleased to see the regularity 
 with which the march past was performed. The Com- 
 mander-in-Chief was accompanied by a brilliant staff, a 
 Highland officer being one of those that composed it. 
 
 During the whole time we have remained at the Gesu, 
 
 W. R , R and I have continued our friendship. We 
 
 spend a great part of our spare time together, either at the 
 Library or -in visiting any of the monuments, churches or 
 other points of interest in tlie City. When off duty, we make 
 "it a point to ask for ten o'clock permission every night, as 
 we do not care to spend any unnecessary time in barracks. 
 
 On the eve of the Feast of St. George — the day itself fall- 
 ing on a Friday — all the English Zouaves were entertained 
 to dinner at the Restaurant de Paris by Mgr, Stonor, who, 
 as well as Father Gurdon, Mr. Loughnan, Father Canty, and 
 Mr. Vavasour, dined with us. After the dinner had been 
 done justice to, Mgr. Stonor proposed the health of the 
 •Holy Father in an appropriate speech. It was drunk with 
 cheers of three times three. Next followed the health of the 
 Queen and royal family, also drunk enthusiastically. Next 
 Mgr. Stonor proposed the health of Father Gurdon, praising 
 him for his devotion to the Zouaves, and mentioning the 
 regret he felt in losing him. Father Gurdon is about to leave 
 for a mission in England. Father Gurdon, in his reply, spoke 
 •of the great pleasure he had felt in being in Rome, so much 
 so, that it seemed as if he had been spending a long holiday 
 here. Mgr. Stonor s health was then proposed, and received 
 with many a cheer, and then the party broke up. 
 
 On the Feast itself Father Gurdon said Mass for us in the 
 Ohurch of St. George, where we saw exposed his standard 
 and spear head. At five in the afternoon we had, through 
 the kindness of Mgr. Stonor, an audience of the Holy Father, 
 who was most affable and kind to us, and gave us the apos- 
 tolic benediction for ourselves and our families. He pre- 
 sented us all with a medal of the Immaculate Conception. 
 After the audience we were able to see the presents of 
 
 7 
 
. 9S Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 jewelled monstrances, chtalices, vases, missals, chasubles,, 
 rosaries, the beautiful statue of the Immaculate Conception, 
 the splendid vase given by the King of Prussia, and many 
 other beautiful things. These constituted — not including 
 money gifts — the more valuable portion of the presents made 
 to the Holy Father. All the more bulky portion, including 
 some works of art, we had seen on the 10th of April, ar- 
 ranged in the court-yard of the Vatican. Truly one may 
 say, that whatever triumphs other popes have witnessed, 
 never has there been greater or more universal enthusiasm 
 shown than for Pius the Ninth. 
 
 To return to the Feast of St. George, at seven we had a 
 tea-party at the Library. The refreshments were kindly pro- 
 vided by two ladies resident in Rome. After tea we had an 
 Ethiopian entertainment, consisting of songs, jokes by Bones 
 and Pompey, and concluding by a farce of the " Sublime 
 and Ridiculous." Every one present, I think, enjoyed the 
 evening. I certainly did for one. The Ethiopians were 
 Zouaves, and the entertainment was got up by them, and it 
 was certainly a success. Messrs. M'Guinness and Burchett 
 were the two principal actors. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 MARCH TO MONTEFIASCONE — LAGO DI VICO — BEAUTIFUL 
 SCENERY — FEAST OF SS. PETER AND PAUL IN ROME— LIFE 
 AT MONTEFIASCONE. 
 
 June 3rd, 1869. — I ought to have mentioned, that while at 
 the Gesii we were all armed with the Remington rifle, having 
 given up the carbines we carried before. The Remington 
 rifle is very simple, light, and a breech-loader, and we are 
 able to fire veiy rapidly with it. 
 
 On our march out here from Rome we passed through a 
 very interesting country, including some very lovely scenery. 
 Thus I dare say a few words about the march may not be 
 unacceptable. We started from Rome at four a.m., on Tues- 
 day, May 17th, passed through the Porta del Popolo, and 
 marched on the Via Cassia, through the Campagna, during 
 that day, resting at La Storta from eight a.m. till three 
 p.m. during the heat of the day; about half-past six we 
 arrived at Baccano, a small place, and rested there that 
 night. This first day I was one of the advance guard, 
 which always precedes by one or two miles, but is supposed 
 never to be out of sight of the main body, otherwise in time 
 of war it might be cut off* from it. The men on this service 
 have also to mount guard over the baggage at the principal 
 halts ; I had three hours on "faction" — as sentinel — over two 
 hours in the sun, and half an hour at night. 
 
 Wednesday we rose at two, started at half-past three a.m., 
 arriving at Monte Rosi at half- past seven. This morning we 
 left the Campagna proper, and as we approached Monte Rosi 
 we got into a slightly mountainous district, in the midst of 
 the northern portion of the Campagna. Near Monte Rosi is a 
 
 7—2 
 
100 Tivo Years in the Pontijieal Zouaves. 
 
 small lake, in wliicli E, and I took a refreshing bath. We 
 
 got into marching order about half-past three, and arrived 
 at Konciglione in three hours: we were now more than 
 half-way to our destination, and had marched nineteen miles 
 the first day, and seventeen the second. The scenery round 
 Ronciglione is very picturesque, the town being built at the 
 head of a very steep ravine, and quite amongst pretty hills, 
 and only one mile from the calm Lake Vico. This lake 
 was the scepe of a swimming feat, performed here shortly 
 before our march by an English Zouave, Sergeant Colling- 
 ridge. This sergeant went down with his lieutenant to the 
 lake for a bath ; after they had been in the water a short 
 time, the lieutenant missed Mr. Collingridge, and thought he 
 must have gone down. He got out and dressed, but fancied 
 he saw something moving in the middle of the lake — it 
 might be him struggling for his life. The lieutenant imme- 
 diately posted off to the barracks, to find some men to come 
 and drag the lake for the body. All these movements occu- 
 pied some considerable time, for as the lieutenant and his 
 men went down to the lake, what was their astonishment 
 when they met Mr. Collingridge all alive riding to barracks, 
 after swimming across the lake and back ! a swim of about 
 four miles, the Lago di Vico being about two miles broad. 
 The lieutenant was somewhat chagrined, as might be sup- 
 posed. 
 
 We met Sergeant Collingridge and several other comrades 
 at Ronciglione, and passed a pleasant evening with them. 
 
 I should have mentioned that on our first day's march we 
 passed near the site of Yeii, once a celebrated Etruscan city, 
 and an ancient rival of Rome, and that on the second day 
 before reaching Ronciglione, we passed the sites of two other 
 cities famous in ancient history, viz., Nepete, to the north of 
 the Via Cassia, and Sutrium, to the south, nearer Roncig- 
 lione ; the latter, now Sutri, we observed peacefully nestled 
 on a pretty hill-side, as we neared our evening destination. 
 
 The Lago di Vico, though not of great extent, is marked 
 by features of calm, peaceful loveliness; it is nearly sur- 
 rounded by very steep mountains of the Ciminian range, 
 
Two Tears in the Fontifical Zouaves. 101 
 
 the highest point of which, Mons Ciminius, now Monte 
 Soriano, overlooks the country of ancient Etruria. On the 
 third day of our march we descended first for about a mile 
 to the level of the lake, and then commenced the long, 
 gradual ascent of eight miles, leading to the Gendarmeria 
 della Montagna, which is near the summit of Monte Cimino, 
 or Soriano. 
 
 We left Ronciglione before sunrise, but had not mounted 
 sufficiently high at that identical moment to obtain the un- 
 equalled pleasure of viewing the glorious scene, first in deep 
 shadow, and then gradually but swiftly lit up by the rays of 
 the mighty orb. When we had attained a considerable height, 
 the sun had risen perhaps ten minutes ; but what a scene of 
 beauty and magnificence burst upon our dazzled eyes as we 
 looked upon the view ! On our left was the peaceful lake and 
 its mountain boundary; on our right we beheld four, if not. 
 five, ranges, one behind the other, of the bold, rugged Apen- 
 nines, the highest peaks covered with snow ; farther on to the 
 south-east, the famous Sabines ; at right angles to these, but 
 separated from them by the plain of Latium, the Alban hills ; 
 behind us were the lower mountains we had crossed the two 
 previous days — the Campagna, now covered, as every 
 morning, with its ivinding-skeet of fog, white ^as snow, and 
 Monte Soracte rising proudly defiant, and alone in its 
 midst; then add to this the aid of an Italian sun gently 
 rising higher every moment, and diffusing his glorious rays 
 over the whole, and remember that nothing in England can 
 adequately compare with this charming scene, and you will 
 have perhaps some faint idea of its effect on our enraptured 
 gaze. Now we pass some deep ravines and pretty wooded 
 glens on the side of the Campagna, where, nearer to us than 
 Monte Soracte, is Civita Castellana and the site of the 
 classic Falerii. As we mount higher we catch sight of the 
 beautiful blue Mediterranean, and the islands to the west of 
 the Tuscan shore; we reach the Gendarmeria, and halt 
 there several hours ; we ascend a height near, and take our 
 
 soup together, W. R , E, , and I. The Majors of the 
 
 1st and 2nd company select the same spot; here we had 
 
102 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 a view of Montefiascone, with part of Lake Bolsena, which 
 were so soon to become such familiar scenes to us, and the 
 former our home during the approaching summer. In the 
 afternoon we descended the mountain, and after a hot, dusty 
 walk of six miles, we arrived in Viterbo. 
 
 Viterbo is a clean, respectable-looking town, and stands 
 next in importance to Rome. The Emperor Napoleon's 
 troops are in garrison there, and they appear soldier-like 
 men. We rested there the whole of Friday, and we had 
 then the opportunity of visiting the shrine and church 
 of St. Rose of Viterbo and the Madonna della Querela; 
 the latter is now enclosed in a church, but is not always 
 exposed : we entered the church, but did not see the Ma- 
 donna. We arrived at Montefiascone on Saturday at eight 
 a.m., having marched the twelve miles from Viterbo in four 
 hours. 
 
 Montefiascone — Mons Faliscus of the ancients — is situated 
 on a mountain 1700 feet above the sea level, at the south 
 end of the splendid lake of Bolsena. From the side looking 
 down on the lake is a very beautiful view ; first, stretching 
 out at a great depth below one, are vineyards and fruit gar- 
 dens from the slopes of the mountains down to the lake ; 
 then there is the lake itself with its two islands — Martana 
 and Bisentina —the latter containing seven ruined chapels ; 
 beyond, in the distance, the mountains of Tuscany ; far off, 
 on the left, is the sea and the island of Gianuti, and the 
 rocky promontory of Argentario, the former about seventy 
 miles distant in a straight line ; on the right is a pretty 
 country reaching from Bagnorea to Acquapendente, including 
 a portion over the frontier. 
 
 The town is celebrated for its white wine, and although 
 the wine in this part of Italy is neither considered good nor 
 cheap this year, yet at Montefiascone we can buy a fias- 
 chetto — containing about two pints — of wine for six sous, 
 or threepence ; earlier in the season it was cheaper still. 
 Since we have been here we have had some very hot sultry 
 days, but now it is much cooler ; this morning was quite 
 cold, the wind blowing off the Apennines. On the whole, 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 103 
 
 it will be much cooler here than in Rome for the 
 summer. 
 
 Rome, July 2nd, 18G9. — It is about sixty English miles 
 from Rome to Montefiascone the way we marched out ; it 
 was well arranged, and with the help of tallow — very good 
 for the poor feet — the most of us were not over fatigued or 
 footsore. You will be perhaps surprised to find me writing 
 from Rome. I came in, on permission for eight days, for the 
 Feast of SS. Peter and Paul, as I was not in Rome for it last 
 
 year. I started on Saturday last, accompanied Jby R as 
 
 far as Toscanella, and a Spanish Zouave of our company. 
 Count Alvarez de Toledo, leaving the^barracks at three a.m. 
 in a carriage, in order to meet the train at Corneto, tliirty-five 
 miles distant. We passed through Marta and Toscanella, 
 where we stopped to rest a short time ; there did not appear 
 to be anything very remarkable about these places as far as 
 we could see from a passing visit, but I beli'eve, as Toscania 
 was one of the principal cities of Etruria, that there are 
 some remains to be explored another day. We passed 
 Corneto before arriving at the station, which is situated 
 between that town and the Mediterranean. Corneto ap- 
 peared to be a pretty town, strongly situated on a high hill, 
 but we did not enter it, as my companion and I preferred to 
 go down to the sea for a bath, during the time we waited 
 for the train. We found a nice shore, and had a most 
 delightful swim, and picked up on the coast a few shells to 
 bring home. I found my companion very pleasant, and it 
 was through his kindness that I rode to Corneto, for I had 
 previously intended to walk. We conversed in French, and 
 got on very well, although I am very far as yet from" speak- 
 ing that language fluently. The Count speaks French and 
 Italian beautifully. 
 
 The railway fares are reduced two-thirds for the military 
 who may be travelling. 
 
 On the Feast of SS. Peter and Paul, the Holy Father said 
 Mass in St. Peter's at the high altar. I saw the procession 
 return from the Basilica to the Vatican ; although grand as 
 are all processions in which the Holy Father takes part, it 
 
104 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 was not so brilliant as that of Palm Sundey or Easter. The- 
 Pope appeared in very good health, but looked very sad 
 before reading the Excommunication against the robbers of 
 the States of the Church, which he does on returning, when 
 about half-way down the nave. 
 
 The whole of the crypt under the dome being open, I took 
 the opportunity of visiting it, and saw there the tombs of a 
 great many popes, among them those of Adrian IV., an 
 Englishman_, and Alexander VI,, also .those of the Stuart 
 princes, descendants of James II. There were also inscrip- 
 tions taken from the catacombs of the Vatican, mosaics^ 
 and other interesting objects from the ancient Basilica of 
 St. Peter. On the evening preceding the feast the Basilica 
 was illuminated, and partially so on the feast itself; there 
 were also fireworks at San Pietro in Montorio ; the display 
 was splendid, the best I have yet seen. On the SOtli I 
 went, accompanied by two comrades, to St. Paul's, and saw 
 there again the Holy Father, got his blessing, and examined 
 again this splendid Basilica ; here are collected the most 
 beautiful semi-precious stones the world can produce. 
 The baldachino is supported by four alabaster columns, the 
 bases of which are formed of marble, malachite, and the 
 centre panels of a beautiful purplish lapis-lazuli ; but I for- 
 get that you have a book describing " Rome, its Churches," 
 &;c., better than I can do. I can only add that most of thenr 
 well repay a second visit, as one at first sight does not take 
 in all their grandeur and beauty. The chain of St. Paul 
 being exposed, I was able to kiss it, a priest holding it, and 
 taking it round the group of the kneeling crowd who came 
 to venerate it. I afterwards visited the Tre Fontane, where 
 this holy apostle was beheaded, and saw there also the pillar 
 to which he was bound. The history of the Tre Fontane, 
 i.e., three fountains, is this : St. Paul was beheaded at this 
 spot on the Ostian Way ; as his head was severed from the 
 body it was seen to make three bounds, and at each spot 
 where it touched the ground, there issued forth a spring of 
 water. These three springs can be seen inside the churchy 
 which was built to contain them. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 105 
 
 To-day I visited the room of St. Philip Neri, at the Chiesa 
 Nuova, and I saw there his bed, confessional, the altar at 
 wliich he said Mass, and the crucifix he held in his hand 
 when he died. 
 
 You hope I shall try my hand at sketching, but do not 
 expect any results ; my attempts will be rough enough with- 
 out being ready. I am sadly in want of a master to teack 
 me the elements of drawing from nature. 
 
 We are living at Montefiascone, in a part of a Franciscan, 
 monastery, which is used as a barrack, and we are certainly 
 well situated for the summer. We have not been to the 
 islands yet, although we went to Capo di Monte for the 
 express purpose of going to Bisentina ; but the boatmen 
 asked too much money, and said it would take too long to» 
 go, as there was a little wind. We have exercise three 
 times a week, reveil at 4 a.m., appel at 4.45 ; we are then 
 taken to the fields and exercised in skirmishing drill, a great 
 deal of it at the " jpas gymnastique,'' — a slow running step 
 — until about 7.45, when we return to barracks. 
 
 The following are a few of our commands in the field : 
 '^ Seconde section en tirailleurs d vingt pa>8, prenez vos 
 intervalles ! Marche !" After we are deployed in line at 
 five paces distance we hear : " En avant ! Conimencez le 
 feu ! En retraite I Cessez le feu ! Par le flanc droit pas 
 gyninccstique ! Marche ! Halte ! Rassemblement .'" and. 
 at last, " Peloton par le flanc droit, Droits !" " Peloton 
 en avant ! Marche 1" " Peloton ! Halte !" " A droite 
 alignement ! Fixe .'" " Presentez arrae !" " Rompez vos: 
 rangs ! Marche !" On hearing the last we are at our 
 barrack's door, and there separate after three hours' healthy 
 exercise. We mount guard about once in twelve days ; wo 
 have inspection of all our effects twice a week, and are con- 
 signed to barracks from one o'clock till four every day 
 except Sunday — this is to avoid the heat, and for the siesta,"^ 
 if we choose to take it — then we have an appel propre in- 
 spection in the ranks as to cleanliness of dress, sabre, &;c. 
 Every day when there is no exercise, we have plenty of 
 
 * The afternoon repose. 
 
106 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 time to smoke and take our cafe with our friends on the 
 Piazza of Montefiascone, and to batlie in the lake three 
 times a week. 
 
 Montefiascone, July 12th, 1869. — I returned from Rome 
 on Saturday week, by way of Corneto and Toscanella, having 
 walked most of the way to Montefiascone from the station. 
 
 At Toscanella I met my two friends, W. R and R ; 
 
 we stayed there the night. Toscanella appears to have been 
 an important town in the middle ages, as well as in the time 
 of the ancient Etruscans. Besides a strong wall surrounding 
 the place, there are a good many towers built for its defence, 
 and also two very fine old churches of the twelfth century ; 
 the doorway, ornaments, and arches very much resemble the 
 Norman doorways we see in England. These last three 
 days we have had very hot weather, with a strong sirocco 
 blowing. 
 
 We have occasionally opportunities of speaking and learn- 
 ing Italian. When we go on patrol with the Gendarmes 
 we talk to them. I do not understand enough Italian to 
 carry on a conversation, but merely to ask and answer a few 
 j)lain questions. 
 
 The history of La Madonna delta Querela, i.e., Our Lady 
 of the Oak, is very interesting. Some hundreds of years 
 ago some pious person put up a picture of Our Blessed Lady 
 into an oak tree in a forest near Viterbo. There gradually 
 arose great devotion for the place ; miracles were wrought 
 through the intercession of Our Blessed Lady. Some one 
 took the picture to his house, in order to have it always 
 near him; but next day, to his surprise, he found it trans- 
 ferred to the original place. Next time he placed it under 
 lock and key, but no matter, it was taken back again to the 
 original oak, and there it has remained to this day. It is 
 now enclosed in a church in the charge of the Order of St. 
 Dominic. A full description will be found in " Sanctuaries 
 of the Madonna," by the Very Rev. S. Northcote, D.D. 
 
 Sunstrokes are very uncommon here. When we walk out 
 in the heat we sometimes tie a white handkerchief on our 
 " kepi." Marching with all our effects is very hard work 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 107 
 
 while it lasts, but the actual march with us lasted only seven 
 or eight hours per day. 
 
 Most of the orange trees I have seen are in gardens in 
 Borne, where they present a very pretty sight in winter 
 laden with their golden fruit; as do the lemon trees during the 
 same season. The olives do not grow very high here, and are 
 generally planted amongst the vines, or on the declivities of 
 mountains. I have seen very fine olives at Frascati and 
 other places. The wild flowers of this neighbourhood are 
 few, and much the same as in England. The acacia trees 
 were beautifully in blossom when we came here. 
 
CHAPTER XIL 
 
 THEORY — BOLSENA, AND THE MIRACLE OF MOST HOLY SACRA^ 
 MENT — ACQUAPENDENTE — FEAST OF SANTA CHRISTINA — 
 LIFE IN DETACHMENT AT BOLSENA. 
 
 Montefiascone, August SOtli, 1869. — I have been very busy- 
 lately studying the new " Theory of Rifle-shooting," which 
 has just been published here for our instruction in the use 
 
 of our new arm. My comrade and friend, W. E, , and 
 
 I are amongst those who have been chosen to learn it with 
 the corporals and sergeants of the two companies stationed 
 here in detachment. As we do all our service of guard, 
 patrol, attending appels, &c., the same as others, we have 
 not had much spare time for writing. We are told that all 
 those who learn the " Theory " will pass corporals the first, 
 so we are anxious to do our best to master it. 
 
 The " Theory " teaches the manner of executing the dif- 
 ferent movements with the rifle, and the part the ii;istructor 
 has to play in teaching them. 
 
 On the 13th, four of us — one being a Canadian — started 
 for a trip, on permission, to Acquapendente and other places. 
 ' We arrived at Bolsena at seven a.m. There is a church — Santa 
 Christina — which contains some precious relics, and our first 
 care, after we had heard Mass, was to ask permission of the 
 archpriest to see them. The archpriest was very kind and 
 polite. He showed us first the relic of the patroness of the 
 church, St. Christina, Virgin and Martyr. It consists of a 
 stone which was attached with a cord to the neck of the 
 saint when she was thrown into the lake to be drowned for 
 the profession of the Christian faith. By a miracle the cord 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 109 
 
 was broken, and the stone swam and carried the saint on 
 its surface several miles to the island of Bisentina, where 
 she was saved, but only in order to suffer still more, and to 
 be at last beheaded. The stone has retained the marks of 
 the feet of the saint which it received at the time of the 
 miracle, and it now forms the front of an altar. 
 
 Later on another miracle took place at this altar. This 
 was in the twelfth century, when a German priest who had 
 doubted the Real Presence of Our Lord in the Blessed Sacra- 
 ment, came to Bolsena, and begged the intercession of Saint 
 Christina for the removal of his doubts. He said Mass, and 
 at the moment of the Consecration he perceived the chalice 
 filled with the Precious Blood of our Lord, and some drops 
 of It stained the corporal and three stones of the pavement. 
 These stones have been preserved with great care till the 
 present time, and we were able to see them after the cere- 
 mony of offering incense, and the recitation of the " Tantum 
 Ergo." The stains of blood were distinctly visible, and we 
 perceived the apparent outlines of an infant countenance in 
 two of them. 
 
 Bolsena is pleasantly situate near the lake to which it 
 gives the name. It is near the present frontier. The soil 
 here is very rich, producing vines, peaches, nectarines, apri- 
 cots, cherries, figs, pears, and other fruits in the greatest 
 
 abundance. W. E, was stationed here for a time along 
 
 with nine others, thus making a small detachment to assist 
 the Gendarmes in patrolling the neighbourhood in search of 
 brigands and other marauders ; the men composing the de- 
 tachment had a fine time of it, for as a great part of their 
 business consisted in guarding the vineyards, they were often 
 invited by the proprietors to help themselves and to partake 
 of their hospitality, which they enjoyed thoroughly. 
 
 Before leaving the lake we enjoyed a cooling bath near the 
 delightful coast beyond the town. We then pursued our 
 way, and saw, before reaching San Lorenzo, some interest- 
 ing Etruscan remains under the ruins of an old castle. 
 The day was delightful ; we thoroughly enjoyed our walk, 
 •conversing sometimes in French with Varin, the Canadian — 
 
110 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 a very intelligent comrade — and at other times in English. 
 We reached Acquapendente in the afternoon, and in the 
 evening the Canadians — who were very numerous in the 
 company in detachment, the 5ieme du 3 — invited us to their 
 rooms in town, and we passed there a very social evening 
 with them, and next morning we breakfasted at the Pension 
 des Sous Officiers, M. Desil^ the serjeant-major, having 
 invited us. 
 
 Acquapendente is pleasantly situated among low hills, 
 within a few miles of the most northern point of the present 
 Pontifical States. The frontier here bounds Tuscany, and 
 there is a fine view of the far-off mountains, as well as of the 
 surrounding hills and valleys. 
 
 On the 14th R , Weetman, and I left Acquapendente, 
 
 Varin staying three days with his friends there, and visited 
 Onano, Le Grotte, San Lorenzo, and passing Gradoliand 
 Latera, arrived at Valentano in the evening. This day we 
 came in sight of the lake of Bolsena again. Our walk lay 
 through a pretty country, though not containing any more 
 striking features than have been already enumerated. At 
 Valentano we went to High Mass, as it was the feast of 
 the Assumption. We did not observe anything very 
 remarkable about Valentano, except that we saw in a small 
 chapel some promising sketches of sacred subjects which 
 were the work of a Zouave who had been formerly stationed 
 here in detachment. 
 
 In the afternoon we returned through Capo di Monte and 
 Marta_, to Montefiascone. Before reaching our destination 
 we were overtaken by a heavy rain, which wetted us well. 
 Thus we completed the circuit of Lake Bolsena. 
 
 Sunday, Aug. 22nd. — We visited Celleno, a village to the 
 east of Montefiascone, in charming country, surrounded 
 by smiling vineyards and beautiful valleys — and Rocca al 
 Vecce and Sant' Angelo. The latter is situated a short 
 distance above the valley of the Tiber, and the vicinity 
 of both these places consists entirely of steep hills and 
 ravines. 
 
 Bagnorea is situated near the last-mentioned places, at a 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. Ill 
 
 short distance from the Italian frontier, and overlooks the 
 valley of the Tiber. The aspect of the country about 
 Bagnorea, Lubriano, and Civitella d'Agliano is most remark- 
 able and peculiar. It gives one the impression that an 
 earthquake has at some time split up the surface into all 
 kinds of fantastically shaped hills and ravines, and thrown 
 the pre-existing order into confusion. The result may be 
 compared to tlie sight presented immediately after an im- 
 mense landslip on the coast of Devon and Dorset, near 
 Lyme Regis. Bagnorea, the ancient Balneum Regium, is 
 built on an isolated rock, cut off from the surrounding hills 
 and steep clay cones by deep ravines. Here is the grotto of 
 St. Bonaventure, the patron of Bagnorea. There is but 
 one approach to the ancient town, and it is by a narrow 
 neck of land, in some places barely the width of the road. 
 The larger portion of the modern town is situated near^ 
 on another perpendicular rock, almost as isolated as the 
 former. 
 
 A friend and comrade contributes the rest of this 
 chapter as follows : — On our march out to Monte- 
 fiascone from Rome we halted for the night at Ronciglione, 
 where we slept in a desecrated church, on straw. After 
 dining on some meat and artichokes at a trattoria, we 
 adjourned in a body — six or seven of us together — to a caf^, 
 where we called for some coffee and rum. On tasting some 
 of the latter we found it was rum mixed with that innocent 
 liquid, water. Whereon one of our number — Sergeant 
 CoUingridge — called to the padrone of the caft^, and bluntly 
 told him, " We want rum, not rum and water." Thereon the 
 man tasted it, and with the greatest coolness remarked, 
 "E vero !" ('Tis true), and entering his shop — outside the 
 door of which we were seated — fetched us another bottle, 
 this time true rum, not the exquisite mixture he had at first 
 attempted to palm off And all this he did without a blush. 
 Such is the cool impudence and want of uprightness too 
 common among some of the tradespeople of Italy. They 
 scruple not to cheat, and if discovered they are not ashamed, 
 but own their error quietly, and wonder at the j)urchaser's. 
 
112 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 sagacity in discovering their underhand dealings. I re- 
 member, on one occasion, going to a certain photographer's 
 shop in the Corso, with an English friend, I, like him, being 
 dressed at the time 67^ jpekin, or in civilians' clothes. I 
 inquired the price of a certain panoramic photograph, and 
 was asked ten francs for it, which I thought too much, 
 :and not being anxious, at the time, to buy it, I did not 
 bargain further about it. But some time later, wishing to 
 purchase the photograph, I went to the shop, and the same 
 man who served me before, now I was in uniform, and as he 
 <con eluded up to their tricks, sold me the photograph for 
 three and a half francs. 
 
 It may interest some of our readers to contrast the prices 
 they pay for articles of food with what w^e paid in the barrack 
 <<^anteen at Mentana. 
 
 A beefsteak, with potatoes . . . 5Jd. a plate. 
 
 Stewed beef 4d. ditto. 
 
 An omelette of four eggs .... 4d. 
 
 A boiled fresh Qgg Id. 
 
 Three sausages cooked (rather smaller 
 than English ones) 2d. 
 
 Veal (a plateful) 4d. 
 
 Besides these things we eat a great amount of honey, 
 which we bought at 2d. a tumbler, in a pure, liquid state. 
 Also we bought polenta, and had it cooked with sugar as a 
 pudding, or sometimes done with meat. Mutton is not to 
 be had here, curiously enough. The wine was good, 
 •although it was rather dear for a country place like Mentana. 
 Bed wine, something like Vin Ordinaire, is threepence the 
 fooflietta, which is a bottle of about two smallish tumblers. 
 Speaking of wine measures, an amusing story is told 
 •concerning them and the spirited Sixtus the Fifth. Up 
 to his reign the vendors of wine, which is, with bread, 
 the chief sustenance of the poorer classes in Italy, 
 refused to sell to the latter a smaller quantity than a 
 foglietta. Wherefore Sixtus issued an edict commanding 
 all wine sellers to supply half this quantity to those who 
 demanded it. It was the custom of this Pope to visit 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 113 
 
 different quarters of the city in disguise, to see that the laws 
 were enforced and observed. So one day, as a poor peasant, 
 he entered into a wine shop, and demanded a "mezza-fog- 
 lietta," or the half measure. The host refused to sell so small 
 a quantity. Next day a scaffold was erected before the 
 house, and mine host was congratulating himself, because at 
 an execution he thought to sell much wine ; but his joy was 
 changed into horror when the officers of justice, entering his 
 house, bound him, and led him off to be executed. Such is 
 the tale, which, though I doubt its authenticity, illustrates 
 the importance of the poor in Italy being able to purchase a 
 small amount of wine, and also pictures to us the anxiety 
 and conscientious strictness with which the falsely abused 
 Sixtus the Fifth enforced the laws he made. 
 
 Feast of Saint Christina at Bolsena. — Bolsena is a 
 town situated on the lake of the same name, and consists of 
 a long street built on a level with the lake, with a piazza 
 near where the Orvieto road enters the town, in which stands 
 a large church, dedicated to Saint Christina, with a lofty 
 campanile, with a few excellent toned bells belonging 
 to it. Adjoining the church is a chapel where are venerated 
 the relics of the miracle of the Blessed Sacrament that was 
 wrought here. Part of the town likewise is situated on a 
 spur of the hills which are behind the town, and from the 
 remains of a mediaeval castle in it is called the Castello. 
 From the Castle is a splendid view of the lake and its 
 two islands and neighbouring country, with a distant glimpse 
 of the Mediterranean. In this upper town is also a small 
 coUegiate church, dedicated, if I remember right, to St. 
 Isidore. Bolsena, under the name of Volsinii, was one 
 of the chief towns of Etruria. The upper town covers the 
 site of the old Etruscan, and the lower town the site of the 
 Roman town. Some Etruscan remains are visible in the 
 neighbourhood — one an ancient cave, used, I think, as a 
 place of sepulchre by the Etruscans, was shown me near the 
 town, and is called the Robbers' Cave, it having been the 
 chief rendezvous of the many brigands that formerly infested 
 the roads around. Remains of a temple and its altar — now 
 
 8 
 
114 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 used as a Christian altar in the large church — are still 
 visible. 
 
 On July 23, the eve of St. Christina's Feast, a detachment 
 of about twenty men, with a sergeant and two corporals, 
 were ordered off to this pleasant little town to do duty 
 during the feast. No duty during my service in the Zouaves 
 was pleasanter than this. A festa, in a country town of the 
 Papal States, was always so full of hearty, innocent enjoy- 
 ment. The people, while bent on pleasure, do not forget 
 that the cause of the mirth is a Saint's feast ; and thus it 
 begins generally by a solemn High Mass veneration of the 
 relics of the Saint. The temporal rejoicing follows. There 
 is the tombola where for three sous you have a chance 
 of gaining as many hundred francs. There is the horse race, 
 sometimes with and sometimes without riders. There is 
 the band, good or bad, for they differ much in quality, 
 parading the streets all the livelong day, dressed in a semi- 
 military attire; there is the pig roasted whole, without 
 which the feast is never complete; there are itinerant 
 vendors of hardware who live by going from town to town 
 to the various feasts ; and then the feast ends by a display 
 of fireworksy and the ascent of a few fire-balloons. And let 
 us not forget the hearty welcome, be you who you may, 
 Zouave or civilian, resident or stranger, that you are sure to 
 meet with in every house you enter. 
 
 But two features of this Bolsena festival are worthy of 
 record, as they are not common to most other feasts, namely, 
 the boat-race on the lake, and the torchlight procession on 
 the eve. 
 
 The race consisted of five or six rickety boats, made of a 
 few planks clumsily nailed together, being placed at a dis- 
 tance of 200 yards from the shore in a line, and then being 
 started off, they strove who first should gain the strand and 
 the prize, a fat pig ! The amusing thing about the race was 
 the difficulty of keeping the boats in a straight line, for they 
 are rowed by one man standing up face to the bow, pulling 
 an oar fastened by a small rope to the starboard gunwale, 
 while another man in the stern steers against him with 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 115 
 
 another oar, and thus the boats make a most zigzag course, 
 which resulted during this race in many a collision, and a 
 little, but certainly good-humoured, disputing. 
 
 The torchlight procession of the statue of St. Christina 
 from her church to the college church was most picturesque. 
 The burning torches, made of the old houses of the town, 
 formed a beautiful background of strong lights and shadows 
 to the various groups of priests, choristers, soldiers, men, 
 women, and children composing the procession. And at 
 intervals along the way we went were placed tableaux 
 vivants done in exquisite taste. This one represents the 
 Saint, a mere child, being dragged bound with cords before 
 the stern Roman governor of the town, her own father, who 
 ^sks her to sacrifice to the gods, but in vain. Next we see 
 her tormented by horrible serpents. Here a soldier is sent 
 to her with a drawn sword, to threaten her with death if 
 she still persists in being true to the faith. Others exhibit 
 her trials, her sufferings, and her martyrdom. One repre- 
 senting the Saint combating the devil, pictured as a hideous 
 fiery monster, excited much the feeling of the people, who 
 loudly cried, " Look, see, the devil, the devil ! " 
 
 The Saint was the only and youthful child of the pagan 
 governor of the town, and was put to death at T3rro, a city 
 that is supposed to have stood on an island in the lake, but 
 which has now entirely disappeared. A stone is shown in 
 the church bearing the marks of a child's feet, which 
 was fastened to the Saint when thrown into the lake, but 
 which miraculously floated, and bore her in safety to the 
 shore. Her relics are not here, but at Palermo. 
 
 Life in Detachment at Bolsena. — On Wednesday, 
 August 18th, 1869, I left Montefiascone in the afternoon, 
 and after a sac-d-dos march, part of the way through a 
 severe thunderstorm, we arrived at Bolsena in the evening. 
 The detachment to which I belonged numbered ten men, 
 a lance-corporal and nine privates. We did the duty of 
 Gendarmes, and were paid accordingly, receiving twenty- 
 one sous a-day, which we divided thus: — ten sous for 
 the ordinaire (daily meals), four for bread, and seven to 
 
 8—2 
 
116 Two Years in the Pontifical Zoiiaves, 
 
 put in our pockets. The first few days after our arrival we 
 had to sleep on straw, for which we were paid five sous a 
 night. Our duties were not very severe. We provided men 
 for four patrols a day. The first patrol began at six a.m., 
 and lasted till ten a.m. ; the second from 8.30 p.m. till 7.80 
 p.m. ; the third from 8.80 p.m. till 12.80 a.m. ; and the fourth 
 from then till four o'clock in the morning. The two night 
 patrols were for the town, the other two were for the 
 surrounding country, and especially along the road to Mon- 
 tefiascone, to protect the mails on their journey thither. 
 Each patrol consisted of two Gendarmes and two Zouaves, 
 armed with their rifles. We had no corvees except one, 
 which was to buy the meat and other provisions in the 
 town, and we mounted no guards, one man staying in turn 
 at the barracks to see no civilians or suspicious characters 
 entered. We were quartered in the house where the muni- 
 cipality held their meetings. The latter consisted of the 
 doctor, the lawyer, the chemist, and two or' three signori of 
 independent means. 
 
 Five of the Gendarmes quartered in the town with us tried 
 one night, dressed in civilian clothes, to surprise a well-known 
 brigand in the neighbourhood, who had robbed several houses 
 and harmless peasants. They found out where he was hid, 
 and were about to capture him, when he took fright, and 
 made off* towards the frontier. The Gendarmes could not get 
 up to him as the ground was full of ditches and holes, and 
 they did not, as he did, know the country. He at last got 
 clear away by leaping down a deep ravine, down which one 
 of the Gendarmes fell and severely sprained his leg. They 
 had their rifles with them, but could not use them, for, ac- 
 cording to the law here, firearms cannot be used against an 
 unarmed man, no matter what his crime may be. 
 
 Our lance-corporal was a nice young Canadian, Varin by 
 name, and he and I became great friends with the Gendarmes. 
 They were fine fellows those with us, and had nearly all 
 fought at Castelfidardo. They all, without exception, came 
 from the Pope's invaded provinces, from the Marches and 
 TJmbria. One of them had been twenty years in the Pope's 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 117 
 
 services, and was close to General de Pimodan when the 
 latter fell on the glorious but disastrous field of Castelfidardo. 
 Another one of our Gendarmes was a native of the Holy 
 Father's birthplace, Sinigaglia. 
 
 The wine of Bolsena was considered the best in the Pon- 
 tifical States, being very pure, nourishing, and strengthening. 
 The natives live almost entirely on it and a little bread and 
 fruit. Some of the fish caught in the lake were very good. 
 
 Sometimes we made patrols into the hills among the vine- 
 yards, and the owners of them often asked us to taste their 
 grapes. It was delicious work, plucking off" large bunches 
 of big ripe grapes, eating them fresh with the dew on them, 
 such grapes as would at home cost three to four shillings a 
 pound, and perhaps not even then equal them in flavour. 
 
 On one occasion, some of our detachment conducted two 
 young men to the frontier ; they were agents of the Revo- 
 lution, arrested in Rome, and after a month or so spent in 
 prison, were sent hither to be taken across the frontier. 
 They were brought here in custody of two Gendarmes, and 
 some Zouaves from Montefiascone, and were locked up for 
 the night in the Gendarmerie. Next day they were taken 
 along the Orvieto road, and at the boundary were set at 
 liberty, and told not to venture into the Papal States again. 
 One was a coarse, common-looking jail-bird, but his com- 
 panion was a handsome young Italian, well dressed, and 
 apparently of good family, and seemed quite ashamed to find 
 himself manacled to such a low villain as his comrade. He 
 told our lance-corporal that he had been surprised at the 
 leniency of the Pope in so soon granting him his liberty, and 
 that while in prison he had been treated with all the kind- 
 ness compatible with prison discipline, that he had endured 
 no special rigours or severities, as, for instance, the handcufis 
 had only been put on him while he was being conveyed from 
 one town to another. So much for the rigours, severities, 
 cruelties, dungeons, and chains with which the Pope is said 
 to torture his prisonei-s ! 
 
 Occasionally during our night patrols in the town amus- 
 ing incidents would occur. On one occasion, when all the 
 
118 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 town was buried in slumber, two old women set up a hideous 
 row, abusing each other in good round terms. In a moment 
 all the neighbourhood was aroused, and heads with and 
 without nightcaps were poked out from the windows of the 
 houses round, abusing the disturbers of their rest, and striving 
 by more noise to quiet the first uproar. It was as much as 
 two Gendarmes and four of us Zouaves could do to get the 
 originators of the hubbub to go to bed, and to induce their 
 would-be pacifiers to close their windows, and hold their 
 tongues, and return to rest. 
 
 Many of the inhabitants on hot nights often slept out- 
 side their house, but this was forbidden by the authorities,, 
 as injurious to the people's health, and dangerous to their 
 purses, if evil-doers were about, so the Gendarmes had orders 
 4o wake them up and send them to their homes. One 
 worthy who had been indulging in strong liquors, had 
 betaken himself to rest near the gate of the town. On 
 being awaken by a Gendarme, he was too sleepy and stupid 
 to comprehend the questions asked him, but kept on repeat- 
 ing them over as the Gendarme spoke them. At length the 
 latter, impatient, gave our good friend a box on the ears, 
 which at once cleared his brain, whereon our worthy citizen 
 betook himself to his home and his bed. 
 
 After near six weeks of detachment duty, we were re- 
 placed by another party, and returned once more to Monti- 
 fiascone. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FEAST OF ST. ROSE AT VITERBO — BOATING EXCURSION ON 
 LAKE BOLSENA — EXCURSION TO ORTE, CIVITA CASTELLANA, 
 SORIANO. 
 
 Montefiascone, Sept. 14th, 1869. — Since writing last, I have 
 been with my friends to Yiterbo for the Feast of St. Rose — 
 Sept. 4th — ^but as on account of the "Theory" our commandant 
 would give but twenty-four hours' permission, we were only 
 able to see the grand procession which took place on the 
 eve of the feast ; the macchina, a kind of triumphal car, 
 forty feet high, beautifully executed in the Gothic style, 
 containing representations of different passages in the life of 
 St. Rose, was carried by sixt}'* men. As it was entirely illumi- 
 nated, as well as the streets,, the whole was very beautiful ; 
 the streets were thronged with visitors, who had come to 
 see the procession, and to visit the shrine of St. Rose; a 
 picket of French troops attended. 
 
 In the church, the body of the Saint can be seen under an 
 altar ; it appears to be incorrupt and perfect. 
 
 Next morning we had just time to visit La Madonna 
 della Querela, and to hear Mass there. This time we saw 
 the veritable Madonna of the Oak, with the part of the 
 tree in which it is placed ; it appeared to be well executed, 
 and showed appearance of great age ; it is kept carefully in 
 a large case or shrine at the back of the high altar, which is 
 formed of beautiful marbles; the church — a new one — is 
 very fine, and is served by the Dominican Fathers, who 
 have a large convent adjoining it. 
 
 On Sunday last, after Mass, a party of six started by boat 
 to visit the two islands of Martana and Bisentina. We 
 placed ourselves under the care of R , who has had some 
 
120 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 experience in boating ; after getting out from shore, our first 
 movements consisted of a series of zigzags, arising from the 
 peculiar nature of the boat, and the manner in which the 
 oars were placed, one on"] the bow, and the other astern. 
 These were succeeded by misgivings as to the propriety of 
 having left the boatmen behind, the boat commencing to 
 make a straighter though slow course, a consequence of the 
 different arrangement of the men and oars, abandonment of 
 the design of three of the party, swimming from the nearest 
 point of the coast to the first island, followed by the boat — 
 the consequence of loss of time occasioned by badly con- 
 structed boat — then change of course, and pointing the bow 
 towards Martana, where we arrived after an hour and a 
 half's rowing. Then followed examination of the ruined 
 monastery on the island, ascent of the steep cliff", bird's eye 
 view of the ruined mediaeval castle thereon, and of the lake 
 therefrom, descent, cutting names on a fig-tree — this was the 
 cause of a serious inconvenience to two of the party, viz. : 
 
 R and Woodburn, who in cutting freely through the 
 
 bark of this wild fig-tree, allowed the milky sap to flow on 
 their arms and feet ; this afterwards caused severe irritation 
 of the skin to both, and one of them did not get rid of it 
 for more than six weeks. Refreshments succeeded, consist- 
 ing of bread, ham, figs, and grapes. No inhabitants were 
 seen, though a cow and a donkey were. We re-embarked 
 at 1.40 p.m., enjoyed a lovely row, intermingled with some 
 misgivings as to the possibility of returning to Montefiascone 
 that night, and arrived at Bisentina at 3.25, reconnoitred the 
 island, the seven ruined chapels at diff*erent points on the 
 rocky coast, the almost ruined church, and the old English 
 boat — this was the property of an Englishman, a former 
 owner of the island of the time of Napoleon 1. Re-embarka- 
 tion at 5.40 ; damages done to an oar, thereupon ensued 
 reparation, afterwards comparatively good run to the Monte- 
 fiascone shore, where we arrived at 8.5 all right, and in 
 time to be in barracks before ten. 
 
 Montefiascone, Sept. 30th, 1869. — The weather has been 
 somewhat variable, but in general very good for the grapes, 
 
a 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 121 
 
 the crop of which is good. Some snow has fallen on the 
 Apennines, although it is at present as warm here during 
 the day as in England in the middle of summer. We shall 
 return to Rome probably in the month of October, and our 
 company will be there— as will the whole regiment — ^for 
 the opening of the (Ecumenical Council. 
 
 Last Monday a party of four — one being M. Desnoyers, 
 who assists me in learning French — started for the Grotte 
 San Stefano. This village of San Stefano is about nine 
 miles from here. We entered an albergo to take some 
 refreshment, and met there a Gendarme, whom we asked 
 to take some wine with us, and to smoke some of our English 
 tobacco ; this he did, and became very sociable, and after- 
 wards showed us the " grottoes," and told us that they were 
 excavated by some refugees, who were driven out of Florence 
 some centuries ago. I forget to describe a grotto as seen 
 in Italy. Generally speaking it is a kind of cave, exca- 
 vated out of the volcanic subsoil to store and preserve 
 wine ; but in [this mountainous country grottoes are often 
 dug out in the shape of a house of one or more rooms, on 
 the side of hills and mountains, to be inhabited. At San 
 Stefano there is a population of about 2000 souls, the vast 
 majority of whom live in grottoes. 
 
 The inhabitants of this and other mountainous districts 
 round Montefiascone, and other country parts of the States 
 which I have visited, are generally simple and industrious in 
 their habits, polite and obliging to strangers, and the women 
 modest and retiring, and their dress very picturesque ; red, 
 green, and white are generally the prevailing colours. 
 
 After visiting the village of Mugnano, and admiring the 
 valley of the Tiber, we returned to Montefiascone, having 
 passed a very agreeable day. 
 
 The vintage has already commenced here, and promises 
 to be a very abundant one, so we may hope to taste the 
 new wine in a short time : we expect it to be better than 
 that of last season, when the vintage and wine were by no 
 means good. Figs and grapes have both been abundant 
 this year. 
 
122 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Saturday, Oct. 9th. — ^R and I started to Orte and Civita 
 
 Castellana, having a permission of absence for three days. 
 We left at eleven a.m., and after passing Grotte San Stefano, 
 •we made the best of our way to Bomarzo across the open 
 country ; we could see the place before us on a steep hill, 
 but before we could reach it we encountered four deep 
 ravines, in one of which was a river, and in two others tiny 
 brooks. On the top of one of the rocky hills we crossed we 
 found some grottoes and peculiar excavations, apparently of 
 Etruscan origin. The vicinity of Bomarzo is very pretty, 
 the town being on a steep declivity, the lower slopes of 
 which were covered with vines and olives. Before mount- 
 ing the hill into the town, we discovered an ancient Roman 
 villa and gardens, in which were terraces, a bath, statuary, 
 &c. ; it is now called Villa Antica Borghese, belonging, I 
 suppose, to the Borghese family. We passed through 
 Bassano, and arrived, well soaked with rain, at Orte at 
 eight p.m. 
 
 Orte was so called because in ancient times there were 
 here very splendid gardens ; we saw the town and neigh- 
 bourhood to advantage, as the Sunday was a very fine day. 
 The town is placed on a steep rock rising directly from the 
 Tiber, and the scenery around, including its valley and that 
 of the Nera, was magnificent ; it included also the bold 
 Apennines in the distance, pretty vineyards below us, and 
 rocky precipitous hills near us, on the opposite side to the 
 mountains. The junction of the Nera with the Tiber takes 
 place below the town near the railway station. Orte, like 
 Montefiascone, Soriano, Civita Castellana, Corciano, Yigna- 
 nello, and many other Roman towns, occupies a strong and 
 commanding position, and is capable of being defended by a 
 small body of men. Two reasons may be assigned for the 
 position of these places and others in Italy : not only were 
 they capable of being easily defended in the troubles and 
 wars of ancient times and of the middle ages, but their 
 situation, removed above the fogs and mists of the valleys 
 during the night, was and is more healthy. 
 
 After hearing Mass in the cathedral, and seeing the 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 123 
 
 Zouaves of the detachment at Orte, we left for Borghetto by 
 train, passing quite near the frontier of Umbria, formed 
 here by the Tiber; we saw several Italian towns on the 
 tops of high hills on the opposite side of the river ; walked 
 from Borghetto to Civita Castellana, met our Zouave friends 
 there, who were not a little surprised as well as pleased to 
 see us. Civita Castellana is a finer town than Montefias- 
 cone, possesses two fine churches, besides several smaller 
 ones, and also a fort in which there are a company of disci- 
 pline, some civil prisoners, and some brigands — among them 
 a celebrated brigand chief named Gasparoni. Next morning 
 we started to return at half-past eight, and passed Corciano, 
 Vignanello, Soriano, and Yiterbo, arriving at Montefiascone 
 about eleven p.m. On the way we saw the peasants very 
 busy carrying the grapes from the vineyards to the towns 
 to make the wine. If we asked them to sell us some they 
 would generally give them without being willing to accept 
 anything in return. I have generally found the peasants 
 who lived away from the garrison towns very generous in 
 this way. Near Vignanello the vineyards extend for miles, 
 and the roads were swarming with donkeys carrying the 
 gi'apes in tubs strapped on like panniers. 
 
 At Soriano we met with Sergeant Mohr, a friend of ours, 
 who showed us the tower of Soriano surmounting his barracks. 
 We had there a splendid and extensive view of the whole 
 country round for miles ; placed on the declivity of Monte 
 Soriano, one obtains here a beautiful panorama of immense 
 extent, including the vaUey of the Tiber, the mountains, 
 Montefiascone, &;c. No description can convey an adequate 
 idea of the beauty, the striking features, and the variety of 
 the scene before us. This, like'so many others in Italy, must 
 be visited to be appreciated. We walked forty-two Roman 
 miles this day, and eighty in the three days, but I was not 
 so tired as from the march back from camp last year. 
 
 Just before leaving Montefiascone we had a High Mass 
 there for the six Zouaves who died the year before, and a 
 procession of Zouaves and priests to the cemetery, carrying 
 a cross to be there erected to their memory. This cross 
 
124 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 was purchased from the proceeds of a subscription among 
 the two companies of the detachment. 
 
 The country about Montefiascone was part of the territory 
 of the ancient Etruscans, and Bolsena, Tuscanella, and 
 Oorneto were formerly important cities of Etruria. A ceme- 
 tery in very good preservation has been discovered at Tur- 
 china, near Corneto. Cervetri was also an Etruscan city, 
 and interesting remains have been discovered there also. 
 In an old church at Montefiascone are traces of a style re- 
 sembling the Norman and Gothic ; also the tomb of the 
 celebrated Canon who is said to have travelled to find out 
 the best wine in that part of the world. He was so well 
 satisfied with that of Montefiascone, that he settled and 
 died there. On his tomb is the inscription " Est, est, mor- 
 iuus est." 
 
 Between Viterbo and Montefiascone are remains of the 
 ^ancient Via Cassia. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 RETURN TO ROME — AT SAN MICHELE— TARGET FIRING. 
 
 Rome, Nov. 3rd, 1869. — Our company arrived here just a 
 week ago. Father Bo wen and Father Duckett arrived on' 
 Sunday. I saw them on Tuesday, and was very pleased ta 
 make their acquaintance. They have very good rooms in the 
 Via Sistina. We marched in by way of Valentano and Mon- 
 talto, then came from the latter place by train to Rome, thus- 
 we had only two days' march, instead of four via Viterbo and 
 Ronciglione. The second day we marched twenty-four Roman, 
 miles, viz., from Valentano to Montalto, passing through 
 Canino ; this was the longest day's march, sac-d-dos, that I 
 have ever done: beyond being foot-sore, we were not over 
 fatigued, and not a man was laid up from ifcs eflfects. After 
 resting a night at Montalto we came in quite fresh on the 
 Friday morning. At Montalto we enjoyed a fine view of 
 the sea and the two islands, one of which is off the Pontifical 
 coast, and the other off that of Tuscany; the former is- 
 Gianuti, and the latter Giglio. 
 
 As regards your apprehensions on the subject of our boat- 
 ing excursion on Lake Bolsena they were quite unfounded, 
 as the worst that was likely to happen was our being de- 
 tained for some hours on the lake, and consequent " salle de 
 police" on the morrow, for not being in barracks by ten 
 p.m. Even this did not happen, thanks to the aquatic skill of 
 
 Mr. R . I am sorry that my account of the trip, written 
 
 oflf-hand, should have led you to suppose that I and my 
 friends rush madly into rash enterprises ; such, however, is 
 not really the case. 
 
 Immediately before leaving Montefiascone I was named 
 
126 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 functionary corporal, which is equal to lance-corporal in the 
 English army, except that here one is innocent of, as well as 
 exempt from, the s^rijpes; one is exempt from all services, 
 patrols, and all the work of a private soldier. 
 
 I mounted my first guard as functionary on Wednesday at 
 Santa Balbina, there being a sergeant above me as " chef-de- 
 poste." I got through it pretty well, barring a little confusion 
 in reconnoitring the " Bonded' Officier" consequent on being 
 aroused at eleven p.m., from a deep sleep by a cry of " Ca- 
 2^oral de garde /" " Ronde d'Officier!" I had to go out with 
 an escort of two armed men, a third carrying a lantern, and 
 advance within fifteen paces of the ofiicer, and cry out, 
 " Qui viveT Answer — " Eonde d' Officier T Then I cried, 
 " Avance a VordreT 
 
 The officer then advanced, touched my bayonet, gave me 
 the "Mot d'ordre;' in reply I gave him the "Mot de 
 ralliement ;" all right so far, and I then commanded, " Portez 
 arme" &c. The officer then walked into the Corps de 
 Garde and wrote down in the sergeant's report as to the 
 fact of everything being quiet and all right at, and in 
 the neighbourhood of the post. A functionary does no duty 
 as sentinel ; but when he is corporal of the guard he has to 
 relieve the sentinels every two hours, by conducting others 
 to replace them. 
 
 We are pleased at the prospect of being in Rome for such 
 a great and momentous event in the history of the Church 
 as the opening of the CEcumenical Council of the Vatican. 
 We consider it quite a privilege. We are stationed at San 
 Michele, with two other companies of our battalion — in all 
 the first, second, and third of the third battalion. San 
 Michele is at once an hospital, barrack, orphanage, prison, as 
 well as an institution for the encouragement of useful arts, 
 such as tapestry, sculpture, «fec., situated in the Trastevere, 
 near the island of the Tiber. There is one inconvenience 
 which we have here. We are some distance from the heart 
 of the city. We are also very high in the world — about one 
 hundred steps above mother Earth. 
 
 The whole establishment is a very fine one, and the 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 127 
 
 institutions named above are in full working order, although, 
 parts of the building which were founded to encourage and as- 
 sist aU the different mechanical arts, are not now used for that 
 purpose. The different parts are of course separate from 
 each other. The area of the whole comprises sufficient 
 ground for a moderate sized village at the very least. 
 
 Nov. 26th. — Although there are a great number of visi- 
 tors arriving and about to arrive in this city, I believe there 
 wiU be plenty of accommodation for them, and plenty of 
 provisions, which are not dearer than last year, owing to a 
 good harvest and vintage. The arrangements for the ac- 
 commodation of the bishops will make no difference to us in 
 any way, as I believe there is enough room for the bishops 
 and ecclesiastics in the palaces and convents which are not 
 used as barracks. Some will, no doubt, take private apart- 
 ments in the city. Already a good number of bishops have 
 arrived. One meets them everywhere now. There are also 
 a good number of English visitors. 
 
 On the 5th inst. there was a grand Kequiem Mass for the 
 souls of all those who fell in defence of the Church at 
 Mentana. All the different corps were there represented. 
 The music, both of the choir and the band, was beautiful and 
 appropriate. I have seen, lately, the great relics of the Gesu, 
 viz., the incorrupt hand of St. Francis Xavier in its splendid 
 shrine; also some others tastefully arranged in rich re- 
 liquaries. I also had the happiness of receiving Holy Com- 
 munion, in another of the rooms of St. Ignatius, from the 
 hands of Father Duckett. 
 
 On the Feast of St. Stanislaus Kostka, we visited the 
 Church of Sant' Andrea at the Quirinal, where his feast is 
 kept, and heard Mass there. Saw his room in the house at- 
 tached to the church, and in it the beautiful statue of the 
 Saint, said to have been sculptured by a Protestant, who was 
 very much struck by the beauty of his work, and was after- 
 wards converted to Catholicity. On Sunday last the first 
 vespers of St. Cecily were sung in the Basilica, in the 
 Trastevere, a Cardinal pontificating. I made a point of being 
 there for the commencement. The singing was exquisite ; 
 
128 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 one solo, accompanied by the harp and flute, was particu- 
 larly admired. I was very pleased with the whole. At first 
 one does not fully appreciate the grand singing here, or the 
 beautiful churches ; but now, after being away for a time, 
 I see the beauty of both far more than at first. 
 
 Next day, the 23rd, we visited the interesting Basilica of 
 St. Clement, which is situated between the Coliseum and 
 St. John Lateran. The ancient church situated under the 
 present one is supposed to have been built in the fourth 
 century, and the frescoes on the walls are the most ancient 
 known, next to those of the Catacombs. They are supposed 
 by competent judges to have been executed at diff"erent 
 periods between the fourth and the ninth century. One 
 painting represents our Blessed Lady and Child, another the 
 Crucifixion ; a third St. Clement, enthroned Pope, assisted 
 by St. Linus and St. Cletus ; and as all, more or less, repre- 
 sent Catholic doctrine and practices, there are here historical 
 monuments which show to any unprejudiced observer that 
 the Catholic religion has heen in all ages the same ; and that 
 its doctrines are not novelties, as is asserted by most Protes- 
 tants. I do not know whether you are aware that the 
 ancient church was buried for 800 years, as the ground 
 around had risen greatly. The present Basilica of the 
 eleventh century was built above the ancient one, on the 
 same spot, on the level of the ground then existing. It is 
 now many feet below the present level; and the ancient 
 church, filled up with rubbish to sustain the foundations 
 of its successor, was lost sight of for many ages, until it was 
 re-discovered by the present Prior, the Very Eev. Father 
 MuUooly, Superior of the Irish Dominicans, to whom San 
 Clemente belongs. 
 
 This day being the Feast of St. Clement, the subterranean 
 church was illuminated, and it appeared to excite the interest 
 of a great number of visitors, who were attentively observ- 
 ing and examining the ancient paintings and the recent 
 excavations. Besides the paintings before mentioned, here 
 are to be seen a series describing the exceptional life of St. 
 Alexius, before alluded to, and also a portion of a pagan altar. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 129 
 
 found in the lower excavations, under the subterranean 
 church. These lower excavations have resulted in discover- 
 ing a portion of the Palace of St. Clement and some brick- 
 work of the Republican period, as well as masonry of im- 
 mense blocks of stone, forming part. of the city wall of 
 Servius Tullius, sixth king of Rome. 
 
 The Rev. Father Mullooly has exhibited gi-eat energy in 
 -carrying on these excavations, and the expense of them has 
 been very considerable, as before all the rubbish could be 
 •cleared away from the subterranean church, supports had 
 to be built to carry the weight of the present Basi- 
 lica. The excavations are still being carried on, even to 
 the depth of two floors, or levels, beloiu the subterranean 
 church. 
 
 The rifle-shooting in the Farnesine meadows must not be 
 passed over. I mentioned before that we were all armed 
 at the beginning of the present year with the Remington 
 rifle, and that we studied the new theory on it at Monte- 
 fiascone, in the summer, after which several of us passed a 
 satisfactory examination. 
 
 R would never be bothered with it, but used to 
 
 poke fun at those who studied their theory so assiduously, 
 and say, during the three weeks we were learning it by 
 heart, that " all the roads about Montefiascone were to be 
 seen diversified here and there with single Zouaves, Theory 
 book in hand, from morning till noon and night." Never- 
 theless, I have never regretted the time I gave to it, for 
 besides improvement in the French language, it gave us an 
 interest in our drill ; and those who were proficient in 
 it were soon named functionary corporals, and were thus 
 •saved the most trying part of our work ; and I feel sure that 
 it was an assistance to me in target-firing. Thus we had our 
 •quiet revenge for all the fun poked at us. 
 
 Our targets for distance up to 400 metres — about 440 
 yards — are round, and marked off* in five circular zones, 
 commencing from the rose or centre, each succeeding zone 
 being larger than the one preceding. For every bullet that 
 •strikes the rose we score 5 ; for the succeeding, 4 ; for the 
 
 9 
 
130 Tiuo Yeai's in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Srd, 4tli, and 5th larger zones, we score 3, 2, 1, respectively 
 — the farther from the centre, the smaller the score. 
 
 The position of every shot that hits the target is imme- 
 diately pointed out by a long rod, held in the hand of one 
 of the men in the pits below the targets, so thus every one 
 sees directly the effect of his shot, and he is able to calcu- 
 late the symmetrical point at which to aim on either side of 
 the rose, in case there is any disturbing cause, such as wind, 
 to turn the balls out of their direct course. 
 
 For longer distances than 400 metres, there is a different 
 target, having only two zones, viz., the rose, and the rest of 
 the target, the scores of which are respectively 2 and 1. 
 
 There was not sufficient time for our battalion to go 
 through the whole course before the winter came on, so we 
 only fired 30 rounds each man — 10 rounds each on three 
 separate days — of these six were fired from the upright 
 position, two from the knee, and two from the ground, 
 couche, i.e., tlie man lying flat on the earth, and all at dis- 
 tances less than 400 metres. 
 
 The English and Irishmen of the corps sustained our 
 reputation very well ; Shee and O'Donnell fired very well. 
 I made about dG points, with 20 balls in the target, and 5 
 in the rose, out of the 30 rounds. 1 am well satisfied, con- 
 sidering that I never did anything the year before v/ith the 
 
 muzzle-loaders, and that B was far ahead of me then ; 
 
 this time, however, I have beaten him by a good number of 
 points, and balls in the target : so much for Theory ! and 
 breech-loaders. There were many in the com})any who 
 made more points and hits than I. 
 
 I called on the Right Rev. Dr. Clifford immediately he ar- 
 rived here ; he appeared very pleased to see me, as being one 
 of the Zouaves from his diocese. I have also been introduced 
 to the Bishops of Northampton and Hexham, both of whom 
 were most affable and agreeable. 
 
 I have visited the hospital, tapestry manufactory, and 
 school of sculpture of San Michele, accompanying Father 
 Bowen and Father Duckett. In the hospital, the old men 
 and other inmates seemed to be well cared for, and to be 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 131 
 
 very contented — quite a contrast in the latter respect to the 
 inmates of the English workhouses. The manufacture of 
 tapestiy has here attained to great perfection, very beautiful 
 specimens being shown to us, and prizes for San Michele 
 tapestry have been awarded at the London, Paris, and 
 Dublin Exhibitions. Young women are <imployed in the 
 manufacture, and also in repairing the ancient tapestry of 
 the Vatican. Taken altogether, San Michele is a wonderful 
 establishment, exhibiting, as it does, the munificence of dif- 
 ferent popes, the care they have taken in promoting industry 
 and the fine arts, the provision made — as everywhere through- 
 out Rome — for the aged and infirm poor. 
 
 "We afterwards visited the Franciscan Monastery of San 
 Francesco, near San Michele, and were able to see the num- 
 ber of precious relics there collected, particularly the portion 
 of the purple with which our Lord was clothed, the sponge 
 of our Lord, and the stone used by St. Francis as a pillow. 
 Round the cloisters are to be seen some very old paintings 
 relating to events which happened to Saints, and other 
 members of this great Order. The church is a favourite one 
 with the inhabitants of the Trastevere, and is also fre- 
 quented considerably by the Zouaves of the barracks of 
 San Francesco and San Michele. 
 
 9—2 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE OPENING OF THE COUNCIL OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 I WAS unfortunately on guard at Sant' Andrea on the 8th 
 inst., so I was unable to be present at the opening of the 
 Council of the Vatican. I tried very hard to find some one 
 to take my place on this great day, but it was quite out of 
 the question, so great was the interest felt in this momen- 
 tous event. I had no other resource left but to perform my 
 duty, and remain at my post. There was another Open 
 Council on the Feast of the Epiphany, at which I was pre- 
 sent ; but I must make use of the assistance of a comrade 
 and friend to describe the ceremony of the great day: 
 the 8th of December, 1869, the Feast of the Immaculate 
 Conception of the Blessed Virgin, on which took place, in 
 St. Peter's, the Opening of the (Ecumenical Council of the 
 Vatican. 
 
 " If you can only realise Byron's superb and elegant de- 
 scription, you will then have some inadequate idea of the 
 immensity, magnificence, and sublimity of the Basilica of 
 St. Peter. The Council was held in the transept on the 
 right as you enter and approach the tomb of the Apostles. 
 A person entering from the vast lobby, and looking over the 
 immense prospect before him, could see to the extreme end 
 of the tribune, where the identical chair in which St. Peter 
 sat is preserved in a superb monument of bronze ; yet, while 
 seeing to the extreme end of the unequalled edifice, he 
 would not have been aware, although the Council may have 
 been sitting, that there were upwards of 2000 bishops, 
 theologians, and chaplains then engaged in one part of this 
 wondrous pile. When, however, you arrive at the shrine of 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 133 
 
 the Apostles, where repose the bones of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul, under the matchless baldachino of Pope Urban, of 
 which the magnificent one over Napoleon the Great in the 
 church of the Invalides, Paris, is only a faint imitation, and 
 under the still more matchless cupola of Michael Angelo, 
 under which the dome of St. Paul's, London, may be placed, 
 and yet leave a space of sixty feet between its top and that 
 of St. Peter's : — when we arrive here, we have the transepts 
 branching right and left. In the right transept, running 
 as it were into the Vatican Palace, was held this last 
 and greatest of Councils, hence called the Vatican Council. 
 During the private sittings of the Council, this transept 
 was cut off from the church by a screen some forty 
 feet high, which was painted to represent the fagade of a 
 temple. At the top our Saviour appears as though emerg- 
 ing from a cloud, with his hands extended to bless the 
 sacred conclave deliberating beneath, and just by was 
 inscribed (in such a manner as to give the idea that He was 
 actually speaking) the promise : * I am with you all days, 
 even to the consummation of the world.' In the four panels 
 of the imaginary door of this fa9ade, which was painted to 
 represent bronze, are the representations of our Saviour in 
 the right hand panel, our Blessed Lady in the left, and in 
 the under panels, St. Peter in the right, and St. Paul in the 
 left. During the open sessions of the Council, this screen 
 was altogether removed, so that the Pope and the whole of 
 the bishops could be seen ; the Pope on his throne at the 
 extreme end of the transept, the cardinals on seats near him, 
 and the bishops on benches aiTanged in rows, according to 
 the manner of the old Roman amphitheatres, where the 
 seats rise one above the other. 
 
 " The Council Hall, thus formed, was decorated, like the 
 other parts of the church, with magnificent pictures. . . . 
 
 " On the opening day the bishops had assembled in one of 
 the Vatican chapels as early as seven o'clock, where they 
 proceeded to robe themselves, the western bishops wearing 
 white mitres and rich copes, and the eastern bishops wearing 
 magnificent crowns sparkling with jewels, while their copes 
 
134 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 were of the richest materials. Here the bishops fraternized 
 with each other until the arrival of the Pope. You may- 
 ask how men of all nations could talk and confer with each 
 other in this great Council, as their languages must neces- 
 sarily have been so different and so many. The Latin, the 
 language of the Church, which they all knew and could 
 speak, at once obviated that difficulty. 
 
 " The Holy Father, after having said his usual Mass, and 
 breakfasted, appeared at eight o'clock in the chapel where 
 all the bishops were assembled. As he entered the chapel 
 he intoned the ' Yeni Creator,' which was then taken up 
 by the Papal choir, the finest in all the world. 
 
 " In passing through the assembled bishops, he gave them 
 his blessing. After a short time the bishops formed in 
 procession. First of all came the various officials of the 
 Council ; next to them the generals of religious orders, and 
 the mitred abbots ; the bishops, according to their dates of 
 consecration ; the archbishops, the primates, and the patri- 
 archs : next the cardinals in their order, cardinal deacons 
 first, cardinal priests next, and cardinal bishops following ; 
 and last of all the Pope, on his ' sedia. gestatoria,' or chair 
 of state, on which he is always carried in every grand pro- 
 cession. In this order the procession wound its way through 
 the halls of the Yatican, and down the ' Scala Regia,' or 
 grand stairs, the masterpiece of the great Bernini. A grander 
 scene than this Rome itself never saw, much less any other 
 city in the world. After descending the ' Scala Regia,' the 
 procession entered the lobby of St. Peter's, and on entering 
 the immense bronze door of the cathedral, each bishop's 
 mitre was taken off by his chaplain, in honour of the Blessed 
 Sacrament. The procession took about an hour winding its 
 way from the starting point in the Yatican to the Council 
 Hall, as it was past nine o'clock before the head of the pro- 
 cession entered St. Peter's. The bishops walked two and 
 two, with their chaplains by their side. When the Pope 
 came to the great door of St. Peter's, he descended from his 
 chair, and walked into the church bareheaded, in honour of 
 the Blessed Sacrament, which was exposed on the high altar 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 135 
 
 of St. Peter's. As soon as the procession appeared at the 
 great door, the famous Papal choir commenced the ' Veni 
 Creator/ the bishops singing the alternate verses. 
 
 " A prie-Dieu had been placed in front of the tomb of the 
 Apostles, before the high altar, over which the Blessed 
 Sacrament was exposed. When the bishops reached the 
 prie-Dieu, each in succession knelt, then turned to the right, 
 and walked to the place allotted to him in the Council HalL 
 When the Pupe arrived at the prie-Dieu he knelt down and 
 remained for a considerable time, doubtless imploring the 
 Divine aid and benediction on the undertaking that day 
 ■commenced. 
 
 " The procession, thanks to my own regiment of Zouaves, 
 notwithstanding the immense pressure of people on every 
 side, was never once broken through, for the space appro- 
 priated to the passage of the bishops was firmly held by a 
 close line of that celebrated corps. The bishops fell into 
 their allotted places, without the slightest confusion ; and 
 when they were placed, and tlie Pope had taken his throne, 
 the spectacle was magnificent beyond description. I saw it, 
 a,nd I shaD never forget it. The tribune to the right of the 
 Pope was reserved for the Empress of Austria, the King and 
 Queen of Naples, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and other 
 illustrious princes. The tribune on the opposite side was 
 reserved for the ambassadors of the difierent powers repre- 
 sented at Rome, and the (^lite of the Roman and foreign 
 nobility. 
 
 "yWhen the Pope had taken his place, the Mass, * Coram 
 Summo Pontifice ' was commenced by one of the cardinals, 
 the music being sung by the Papal choir, unaccompanied by 
 organ or instrument of any kind, thus displaying, in all its 
 marvellous capacity, that best and finest of all instruments, 
 the human voice. When the Mass was over, a sermon 
 of forty minutes' duration was preached by one of the bishops 
 in Latin, robed in cope and mitre. After the sermon was 
 over, the Pope was vested by his attendants, as if for Mass. 
 When thus attired, wearing his golden mitre, he received the 
 obedience, or homage, of all the bishops in succession, the 
 
136 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 cardinals kneeling and kissing his hand, the patriarchs, 
 primates, archbishops and bishops . kissing the cross on his 
 stole, which generally rests on his knee. The Pope, how- 
 ever, held it up to each of his venerable brethren as they 
 came forward to kiss it. This imposing ceremony took an 
 hour and a quarter. At its conclusion, the cardinal deacon 
 on the right of the throne, in a loud voice sang the word 
 'Orate,' whereupon all knelt, the Pope, at his faldstool, 
 saying aloud the prayer, ' Adsumus Domine Sancte Spiritus.' 
 Nearly a thousand voices answered ' Amen.' This prayer 
 was the invocation of the Third Person of the Blessed 
 Trinity to shed upon the Council His sacred illuminating 
 influence. 
 
 "The cardinal deacon at the left of the throne sang,. 
 ' Surgite vos,' addressing the bishops, who then arose en 
 miasse, and the cantors intoned the Antiphon, ^ Exaudi nos 
 Domine.' 
 
 "The cardinal deacon at the right of the throne again 
 repeated ' Orate,' and all prostrated themselves in prayer 
 for some time. After a while, the cardinal deacon on the 
 left again summoned the assembled fathers to rise, which 
 they did ; whereupon his Holiness, the Supreme Pontiff, 
 with head uncovered, said the prayer 'Mentes nostras.' 
 This ended, all again knelt, and the two cantors commenced 
 the Litany of the Saints, the responses being given by the 
 bishops, in which the many thousands of spectators of all 
 countries joined, with the most thrilling effect. Such a scene 
 could only remind one of heaven, and create a wish in each 
 heart to be there. Near the end of the Litany the Pope 
 rose, and with mitre on, and a most magnificent cross- 
 in his left hand, blessed the bishops before him with his 
 right hand, praying that Almighty God would bless this. 
 His holy Synod, and all ecclesiastical orders. This most 
 solemn blessing was three times invoked, each time dif- 
 ferently ; the difference, however, consisting only in the 
 addition, each time, of a new word, viz., to ' bless ' in the 
 first, to ' direct ' in the second, and to ' preserve ' in the 
 third. The Pope sang this triple blessing in a voice wonder-^ 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 137 
 
 ful for its power, fulness, clearness, and sweetness. It 
 struck me, as I stood beneath the mighty dome of St. Peter's 
 and heard it, as being sound as a bell, clear as a trumpet, 
 and indescribably sweet and musical. Many times after- 
 wards, such as when he blessed the world from the balcony 
 of St. Peter, and from the balcony of St. John Lateran, and 
 on various other occasions, I heard that grand old voice, and 
 at hundreds of yards distance, and heard each word dis~ 
 tinctly, hut never was 1 more affected by it than when I first 
 heard it under the matchless dome of the luorld's greatest 
 basilica. Not even when he addressed me and others in one 
 of the rooms of the Vatican, on St. George's Day, April 23rd, 
 1870, when we had the honour of being personalty pre- 
 sented to his Holiness, and kissing: his sacred hand. Whilst 
 this blessing was being pronounced over the heads of the 
 bishops they all knelt. When the Litany of the Saints was 
 finished, the Pope turned to the altar to pray — the cardinal 
 deacon on his right saying, 'Flectamus genua,' when all 
 knelt for a time, and rose again when called by the cardinal 
 deacon on the right. 
 
 " The tenth chapter of St. Luke being the Gospel of the day, 
 was then sung by the cardinal deacon. At the conclusion of 
 the Gospel, the bishops put on their mitres and resumed their 
 seats. 
 
 " At this stage the Pope delivered an allocution with an 
 energy and strength surprising in a man of his years. At 
 times he displayed great emotion, and throughout its 
 delivery the solemnity and impressiveness of his mannef 
 was most striking. In it he expatiated on the motives 
 which had induced him to convene the Council, on its 
 objects, and on the marvellous devotion displayed by the- 
 whole Episcopate to the Holy See, on their union with each 
 other, and on the great consolation which these facts afforded 
 him. He delivered the allocution sitting. At its conclusion 
 he rose, as did also all the bishops. He then prostrated 
 himself in prayer, and intoned the ' Veni Creator Spiritus.' 
 During the first verse the bishops knelt uncovered. It was 
 sung as before, alternately, by the choir and the bishops. 
 
138 Tioo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 joined by the 20,000 spectators. After the first verse all the 
 bishops stood without their mitres. When ended, His 
 Holiness offered up to the Holy Ghost the prayer, ' Deus 
 qui corda fidelium.' After this the first decree of the 
 -Council was read by the secretary, with a view to its 
 adoption by a unanimous and most enthusiastic ' Placet.' 
 The decree publishing the second solemn session for the 6 th 
 of January, 1870, was adopted in the same manner. The 
 first session of the Vatican Council was then closed by the 
 Pope grandly intoning the first verse of the ' Te Deum.' 
 The remaining verses were sung alternately by the choir and 
 the bishops — the thunder of the voices of the 20,000 spec- 
 tators combined with those of the bishops as before. A 
 prayer of thanksgiving, and the first session of the most 
 illustrious Council in history was ended. This session lasted 
 nearly seven hours. The second session was somewhat 
 similar, but it had not the eclat of the first. The Knights 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, of which Sir George Bowyer is a 
 distinguished member, had the honour of mounting guard 
 over the Council of the Yatican, as they also had 300 years 
 ago over the Council of Trent."* 
 
 As to myself, the first opportunity I had of seeing the 
 Bishops assembled was on the occasion of the Papal Chapel, 
 on the third Sunday of Advent. I was much pleased to see 
 such a fine^ intellectual body of men, the representatives of 
 the Chi\rch, from all parts of the world. 
 
 Any one who reads attentively the foregoing description 
 <)f the opening of the (Ecumenical Council must observe a 
 character of solemnity, of earnestness, of a spirit of prayer, 
 about the whole proceedings, and must, I think, be struck 
 with a feeling of the reality of the great event. 
 
 Every true Catholic will not only feel the reality of the 
 event, but will also experience a sense of consolation in 
 beholding the clearest evidence of the energy and vitality of 
 the Church in the nineteenth century. 
 
 As Mr. Jacob says : — " Neither age nor infirmity, nor dis- 
 
 * ''Personal Recollections of Rome," by W. J. Jacob, Esq. 
 
Ttuo Years la the Fontijical Zouaves. 139 
 
 taiice, |»rc\ cnti'd the bishops from responding cheerfully to 
 tlio call of th(' Chief Pastor, while tlie laity, on their part, 
 not only supplied those of their bishops who required it 
 with their travelling expenses and means of support while 
 in Rome, but also forwarded by them from all parts of the 
 world the most costly gifts and presents to our Holy 
 Father the Pope. 
 
 "Some bisii(M)> -p, 111 six moiitlis ,iud upwards in travelling 
 from their dioceses to the centre of unity — the eternal city 
 of Rome. One bishop from a remote part of Asia actually 
 travelled fifty days on horseback to the nearest seaport, 
 before he could embark for Europe. Over how many thou- 
 sands of miles of sea and land, of desert and prairie, did 
 those devoted men travel at the call of an acred man stand- 
 ing on the brink of the grave ? But who is that man ? 
 That man is Peter, the Prince of the Apostles, and the 
 representative and successor of Christ in all His spiritual 
 power in the Church which He has purchased with His 
 Most Precious Blood. From all parts of the vast continent 
 of America, from the frozen North to the Brazils (I had the 
 honour, indeed, of living under the same roof with an 
 excellent bishop from the latter country, a member of the 
 Institute of Charity, who died a martyr to his devotion to 
 the Vicar of Christ) ; from the cities of California to the 
 cities of New England ; from the land of the pyramids, of 
 Cheops, and the Ptolemies ; from the land of which Homer 
 sang ; from the shadow of the Greek schism and the Ma- 
 hometan delusion ; from Turkey in Europe and Asia ; from 
 Africa, ancient and modern ; from the land trod by our 
 Saviour ; 
 
 " * From Greenland's icy mountains, 
 From India's coral strands ;' 
 
 from celestial China ; from the tlien beautiful France — now 
 haggard from starvation, and disfigured by burnt villages 
 and towns and ruined cities ; — from sunny Italy ; from the 
 now victorious Prussia ; from Catholic Spain ; from Austria 
 and the other parts of Germany; from Holland; from 
 
140 Tvjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Switzerland ; from England, and Scotland; and Catholia 
 Ireland ; and from the fifth quarter of the globe, Oceania ; 
 in fact from every clime, from every country, and from every 
 race, the successors of the Apostles came at the call of the 
 successor of St. Peter. 
 
 " The number of bishops in the Council of the Vatican 
 trebled the number of prelates at the Council of Trent, for 
 three hundred was the utmost number that ever attended 
 the Council of Trent during its eighteen years' sitting. 
 This Council of the Vatican was beyond all comparison the 
 grandest and most numerous in the history of the Church of 
 Christ, and proves the existence in the Catholic Church of 
 the nineteenth century of an energy and vitality unequalled 
 in any period of her history.*" 
 
 * *' Personal Recollections." 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ^CHRISTMAS — PASTORAL MUSIC — A FEW WORDS ABOUT LEAV- 
 ING THE CORPS — SANT' ANDREA DELLA VALLE — CON- 
 FESSION IN ST. PETER'S. 
 
 Dec. 28, 1869. — ^You are going on at a gallop in the matter 
 of the corporal business, whereas events and nominations 
 take their time, and don't usually hurry themselves. I 
 cannot be addressed as "corporal "yet, except when on 
 duty. 
 
 My Zouave friends, Messrs. Robinson, R , Burchett, 
 
 Thomson, and I, were fortunate enough to obtain four days 
 permission for Christmas. We first visited the battle-field 
 of Mentana, accompanied by a civilian friend, and afterwards 
 saw the grand ceremonies of Christmas. On Christmas eve 
 we went to Santa Maria Maggiore for the first Vespers. 
 There we saw and venerated the relic of j, the Holy Crib of 
 Betlilehem. Later, we visited the Santa Scala and the 
 celebrated painting of our Lord, by St. Luke. At midnight 
 we went to St. Louis des Fran^.ais for the midnight Mass, 
 where was also the Quarant' Ore, and the illumination was 
 very beautiful. At half-past three we went to St. Peter's 
 for the pastoral music, the service consisting of matins sung 
 by the choir of the Basilica, and afterwards of the Mass cf 
 the Aurora. 
 
 The music called pastoral is very peculiar, and consists of 
 music an'anged to resemble the singing and instruments of 
 the shepherds of Bethlehem praising their new-born King, 
 And the music of birds sounding forth the praises of their 
 Infant Creator. The variety and beauty of the composition 
 
142 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 is well calculated to express and to convey to the mind the 
 circumstances attending the birth of Our Lord. I was 
 
 thoroughly delighted, and so was R , as well as our 
 
 friend from London. We stayed till the end of the Mass, 
 but were not at all fatigued, although we were standing 
 three hours. After taking breakfast, we returned to St. 
 Peter's for the Holy Father's Mass at nine. The singing 
 of the Sistine choir was as beautiful as usual, as also was the 
 music of the dome, the silver-like trumpets. The Apostolical 
 Benediction was given by the Holy Father from the High 
 Altar. In the afternoon we visited the Bambino of Ara 
 Coeli, and there saw a beautiful sight — the preaching of 
 little children. There was a small stage erected before the 
 chapel of the Crib, and the children stood up in twos and 
 spoke the praises of the Holy Bambino. First one com- 
 menced, and made an eloquent little speech, then the other 
 took up the subject, the two vying with each other to speak 
 the best of their Infant Lord. The action of some of them 
 was very good, particularly of the girls. There was quite 
 a crowd to listen to them. This Bambino is very much 
 venerated in Home, on account of the favours that have been 
 obtained of God by means of it. The Crib was arranged 
 with very good taste. 
 
 In an old tower in the Trastevere there is arranged a 
 crib in a grotto, or stable, and with houses and rockwork 
 adjoining; and so placed that through an opening in the 
 tower a view is obtained of the mountains in the distance. 
 This gives an air of picturesqueness and reality to the 
 imaged scene ; and the idea is certainly a very happy one. 
 
 On the 26th came off the Christmas dinner of the Enorlish 
 Zouaves at the Caffe Nuovo, and it was a great success. We 
 had seventy-three to dinner. Amongst the visitors were 
 Lord Denbigh, the Marquis of Bute, Lieutenant- Colonel de 
 Charette, Colonel Patterson, Captain de Fabbri, Captain 
 D'Arcy, Lieutenant Coombs, Major Lewis, Captain Stourton, 
 Mr. Bodenham, Mr. Greenhalgh, and several others. The 
 healths of the Holy Father, the Queen, the Lieut.-Col., Lord 
 Denbigh, and Mgr. Stonor were proposed and received with 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zoiiaves. 145 
 
 great enthusiasm. Mgr. Stonor was present, of course. A^ 
 chaplain he always considers himself one of the Zouaves. 
 After dinner we all adjourned to the Mausoleum of Augustus, 
 in order to be photographed, but the group was a failure, as. 
 some of the party could not keep sufficiently still for its- 
 success. 
 
 At present there does not appear to be any prospect 
 of war, but the Holy Father wishes the Corps of the Zouaves 
 to be kept up, and has asked some men who were going^ 
 home after two years' service to re-engage. Already we are 
 much diminished in numbers, and I do not like the idea of 
 giving up the life next spring, especially as it suits me very 
 well, as it is a great privilege to be in Rome, and as I should 
 not like to be absent if there were any upset here, or any 
 means of obtaining back for the Holy Father the States h& 
 has been deprived of; and there is no difficulty in obtaining^ 
 leave of absence for two or three months to visit one's 
 friends from time to time : nor again is there at any time 
 any difficulty in leaving the service, in case one has a sub- 
 stantial reason. 
 
 Rome, Jan. 26th, 1870. — In accordance with your wishes 
 I am prepared to return home after the expiration of my 
 two years' engagement. 
 
 I was successful in my endeavour to be present for the 
 opening of the second session of the Vatican Council on the 
 Epiphany. I saw the Holy Father and the bishops very 
 well. On this feast, and during the octave, there were 
 grand services going on at Sant' Andrea della Valle. Besides 
 the Latin Masses there was every morning a Mass in one of 
 the Oriental rites, sermons in different languages four times 
 a day, and every evening a grand benediction given by 
 a cardinal. The Greek Melchite rite we found very in- 
 teresting. The Mass at which we were present was a High 
 Mass, and the choir of the Greek College sang with very 
 good effect. It is in the commencement of the solemn 
 sacrifice that the ceremonies differ from that of the Latin 
 rite, as well as in the substitution of the Greek for the Latin 
 language. After the Consecration the different rites — which 
 
144 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 I have seen — all resemble each other, more or less. Several 
 of the ceremonies, such as the joining of two and of three 
 candles — the former representing the union of the two 
 natures of Jesus Christ, the latter the doctrine of the Blessed 
 Trinity — exhibit the union of belief of the faithful of the 
 East and of the West. A very eloquent sermon was 
 preached in French by Mgr. Mermillod, the Bishop of 
 -Geneva, on one day, as well as by Mgr. Manning and Mgr. 
 UUathorne on otlier days. For the nine days following 
 the feast, the different services and sermons four times a day 
 •^vere attended by crowds of people, including Romans and 
 visitors from various countries. 
 
 The beautiful group of the Adoration of the Magi was 
 erected as usual. 
 
 The Confession of the Apostles in St. Peter's consists of 
 their tomb, which is immediately under the High Altar, the 
 latter being exactly under the centre of the dome. As one 
 walks up the nave one comes to the marble balustrade sur- 
 rounding the steps, and the entrance to the shrine, before 
 reaching the High Altar. It is quite true that the congre- 
 gation in the nave see the face of the officiating priest, 
 because here, as in all the ancient Basilicas, the High Altar 
 is isolated and placed at the junction of the nave and 
 the tribune or choir — just the reverse to what we are usually 
 -accustomed to see. The priest looks towards the people, 
 instead of away from them. 
 
 The confession is richly adorned with different coloured 
 marbles, and ornamented with about one hundred lamps, 
 kept continually burning. The present lamps are gilt ; 
 "but formerly here were lamps of sterling metal, until the 
 time of Napoleon I., when they were carried off* to France, 
 as were so man}^ other precious things. 
 
 The Confession in Santa Maria Maggiore was erected by 
 Tins IX. The very rich marbles intermingled with ala- 
 baster, are arranged with the most exquisite taste. Some 
 prefer the design of this to that of St. Peter's. I certainly 
 think it more beautiful. The Holy Father, it is said, intends 
 to be buried here ; but I cannot say whether this is true or not. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 145 
 
 In this Basilica, besides the relic of the crib of Bethlehem, 
 there are the bodies of St. Jerome and of St. Pius V. There 
 are also very interesting mosaics round the walls of the nave. 
 The Borghese chapel is quite a gem in its way. It contains 
 many beautiful things; first, the very ancient picture of 
 the Madonna — one of those ascribed to St. Luke — then 
 there are beautiful reliefs describing the very interesting 
 manner in which the Basilica was founded by Pope Liberius, 
 and on account of which the Feast of >Sf. Maria ad nives, 
 "Our Lady of the snow," was instituted.* The pointed 
 campanile, or bell tower, is one of the most conspicuous ob- 
 jects which meet the eye of the traveller as he enters the city 
 by train, and it is the only one of any considerable height 
 now remaining in it. Near, is the Church of St. Antony, re- 
 markable for its Byzantine doorway. On the Feast of St. 
 Antony takes place outside the church the ceremony of 
 blessing the horses, and a great number of the Roman horses 
 are annually brought here and blessed. Few things bring 
 home to one more than this ceremony, how thoroughly in 
 Rome religion enters into every detail of ordinary life. It 
 is remarkable how very few accidents happen in the narrow 
 streets, many of which are not protected by a raised pave- 
 ment for foot passengers, notwithstanding there is great 
 traffic through them. The church contains pictures repre- 
 senting the remarkable life of St. Antony, the first Hermit. 
 
 * See Butler's '' Lives of the Saints," Yol. 8. 
 
 10 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE "week" in the ZOUAVES — PARADE — CORPORAL OF 
 THE WEEK — THE EXHIBITION OF CHRISTIAN ART — SANT' 
 ONOFRIO — SANTA PUDENTIANA AND SANTA PRASSEDE — 
 PR^TORIAN CAMP. 
 
 EOME, Feb. 26th, 1870.— As I have the "week," I am rather 
 busy just now ; though to-day being on guard, I have a little 
 spare time. The word " week " will puzzle you, but in our 
 army all our services are regulated by the " week," there 
 being a commandant, captain-adjutant-major, and an adjutant 
 of the week for every regiment, as well as a lieutenant, ser- 
 geant, and corporal of the week for each company. The 
 commandant commands at parade ; the captain-adjutant- 
 major names the officers for guard at the most important 
 posts in their different turns ; the adj utant names the ser- 
 geants and corporals for guard, and gives the sergeant of the 
 week the number of men required from his company (for 
 the service of guard, picket, and patrol) at a certain hour 
 fixed by himself; he also assists each day at the parade, 
 accompanying the captain-adjutant-major at the inspection, 
 which the latter passes of all the men then going on guard. 
 This over, he commands : " Division en masse, serrez la 
 colonne ! Marche !" upon which command the first rank 
 remains still, and all the others close in and form a compact 
 column in the order of their respective battalions and com- 
 panies. In the ranks the sergeants stand first, the corporals 
 next, then the privates, and lastly the "corporal of the 
 week." Another command : " Division ! par le flanc droit ! 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 147 
 
 Droite !" and the whole division faces the adjutant, and 
 listens to his reading out the different posts to which the 
 men composing it are assigned. The first post to be guarded 
 is the " Garde Roy ale " of the Vatican — this is composed 
 of a captain, a lieutenant, two sergeants, four corporals, and 
 forty privates, though sometimes only twenty-eight. As 
 •soon as the names of the sergeants, &c., are called out, they 
 •shoulder arms, and walk out to the head of the new division 
 of a single file, which they then commence to form, and so 
 on till all the posts are filled up, and the new division is 
 •completely formed in a long line. At the command of 
 " Chefs de poste, au centre !" every head of a post walks out, 
 and the whole form a ring round the adjutant, who then 
 delivers to each a report to be filled up, accounting for any- 
 thing which may happen in the neighbourhood of each post ; 
 he then gives to one the " mot" or password, consisting of 
 the " mot d'ordre," and the " viot de ralliement" these two 
 words are then passed all round the circle, and the adjutant 
 enquires of the last the words ; thus he is quite satisfied 
 that every one knows them thoroughly ; now all return to 
 their places. The officers of the " week " stand in rank be- 
 hind the commandant ; the sergeants and corporals of the 
 week stand together to the left, the " tromhe" or buglers 
 being to the right of the officers. The commandant com- 
 mands : " Division ! par le fi^anc droit ! Droite !" " Pour 
 defiler. Division en avant, d vos posies ! Marche 1" 
 
 The division then defiles, or marches past, to the sound of 
 the bugle, after which the men for the different posts are 
 led oft* by their respective chiefs, to relieve the men who 
 have been on guard twenty-four hours. The officials of the 
 week then separate, and this concludes the parade which 
 takes place every day, the inspection only being sometimes 
 omitted to save time. 
 
 The sergeant of the week gives the names of the men 
 whose turn it is to go on guard, picket, and patrol, to the 
 corporal, as well as the names of the different posts to which 
 they are assigned ; the corporal then writes these down, and 
 
 10—2 
 
148 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 arranges the other service, he himself naming the men for 
 corv^es such as cleaning out barracks, assisting the cooks, 
 taking the meals to men on guard, loading and unloading 
 the bread, according to a list which he keeps. The corporal 
 has to attend all appels, or roll calls, to answer to the 
 sergeant for all men absent on duty or permission. I am 
 up at six a.m. I first read out in the rooms the names of 
 all men on duty that day, collect all permissions to be 
 signed, take the names of any men reporting sick. I then, 
 drink my coffee, prepare myself for parade, and see that the 
 men are also preparing themselves. At seven a.m. I have 
 to be ready to accompany the sergeant to parade, which now, 
 during the carnival, takes place at 7.30 a.m. After parade, 
 I return to barracks, and remain there till after four, when 
 I assemble the men on patrol, and conduct them to the 
 gendarmeria. This patrol gives me the opportunity of 
 having a few hours to myself: but I have to be back for the 
 appel at 7.30 p.m. In barracks, during the day, I have to 
 hold myself ready to answer the sound of the bugle at any 
 moment, and have to accompany any men sick to the 
 doctor, and to take down his report. I have sometimes to 
 find men for some unforeseen service ; to see that all men 
 named for corvee are ready at the proper time ; to attend 
 appels for picket or exercise^ and then to arrange the service 
 for the next day. Thus you may imagine I have plenty to 
 keep me alive, especially at a barracks like San Michele, 
 where we have the adjutant of our battalion — the latter 
 sometimes taking a fancy to shout to the bugler on guard,. 
 " Tromha ! II corporale di settimana !" which command 
 being executed, I have suddenly to rush down a hundred 
 steps to see who wants " II corporale di settimana." I 
 find, perhaps, he wants to tell me something to the efiect 
 that if certain of the tromhe — Italian buglers — do not 
 behave themselves in the courtyard of the barracks, they are 
 to be consigned to " salle de police P' 
 
 I do not find it very difiicult to fulfil the duties, and have 
 so far, escaped punishment ; but I have been fortunate in 
 
T ■> ) ' ' ; s lii the Pontifical Zouaves. 149 
 
 one respect, viz., in not having any inspection on parade, 
 as this takes place so early, on account of the carnival — 
 sometimes at the later parade the captain-adjutant-major 
 punishes the sergeant of the week for any fault he observes 
 in the men ; who, in turn, comes down on the corporal 
 and the men themselves. I have been able to catch a 
 glimpse of the carnival every evening till now. After I 
 finish my guard to-morrow morning, T shall retake the week 
 till Sunday morning. 
 
 I have visited the gardens and interior of the Quirinal 
 Palace lately. The Palace I found most interesting, the 
 state apartments being very fine, enriched with paintings by 
 the best masters, with most beautiful tapestry, &;c. We 
 saw the room from which Pius VII. was taken prisoner 
 by Napoleon I., and from which Pius IX. fled to Gaeta, 
 -and also the bed on which Pius VII. died. The arrange- 
 ments of the gardens are rather formal, and not according 
 to English taste. The plants in the greenhouses looked very 
 well. 
 
 Rome, March 18th, 1870. — I have visited the Exhibi- 
 tion of Christian Art at Santa Maria degli Angeli, and 
 was much pleased. There were so many beautiful pic- 
 tures, statues, tfcc, that I hardly know what to choose 
 as most to be admired. I may, however, mention a 
 beautiful veiled statue, in which the features could be 
 discerned under the marble veil, a veiled bust, and a 
 model in wood of St. Peter's, beautifully executed, and 
 very faithful to the original. On mid-Lent Sunday we 
 visited the Exliibition for the second time. I was accom- 
 panied by R . We noticed several objects which had 
 
 arrived since our first visit, such as stained glass windows 
 from Germany and France, and some Gobelins tapestry of 
 •exquisite workmanship, so beautifully executed that at 
 a short distance it looked like a splendid painting. 
 We admired again the beautiful pictures, the veiled statue 
 and bust mentioned before, and the statues of St. Aloysius 
 and St. Cecily. In the pentagon there were chasubles of 
 -various shapes, some of which were very ancient ; sacred 
 
150 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 vessels in great variety ; some fine crucifixes in ivory ; the- 
 pastoral staff" of St. Gregory tlie Great, in ivory ; and some 
 beautifully executed cameos. On our third visit we remarked 
 the vestments and copes of the Vatican and Lateran. They 
 are all very rich and magnificent. The monstrances in 
 crystals and in precious stones are also the very finest 
 possible ; and there are beautiful chalices and missals, a very 
 rich tiara of the Pope, set in diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; 
 and a splendid illuminated manuscript missal, a gift of the 
 Emperor of Austria to the Pope. The ancient illuminated 
 manuscript missals are wonderful specimens of patient labour 
 and perseverance. 
 
 Last week I visited Sant' Onofrio, with W. R , Father 
 
 Robinson and his cousin. In the church are some very 
 ancient paintings, which pleased us very much ; also the fine 
 monument to Torquato Tasso, erected by Pius IX. 
 
 In the convent we saw the room and many of the objects 
 formerly belonging to Tasso, as well as one of his last letters. 
 In a vineyard we saw Tasso's oak, and the ruin of a kind of 
 amphitheatre : seated on this amphitheatre we enjoyed the 
 beautiful view there to be seen of the Eternal City. Seated 
 in the midst of the Campagna, we inhaled the balmy air of 
 spring, and drank in the beauty of the scene as we remarked 
 the ascending and retreating snow-line on the distant moun- 
 tains of the Apennines, as well as on the tops of the nearer 
 Sabines. St. Onofrio is situated on the Janiculum, and it 
 was there we obtained this fine view. 
 
 One day during this week we went to Santa Pudentiana, 
 where were the Stations of Lent, and the Quarant 'Ore. We 
 saw there the pavement of the house of St. Pudens, in which 
 St. Peter lived nine years ; a relic of the altar on which the 
 Apostle celebrated the holy sacrifice of the Mass, and the well 
 in which St. Pudentiana placed the bodies of the martyrs after 
 their execution. This church is very ancient, and some poi - 
 tion of it, at least, dates from the time of Pope St. Pius I., 
 in the second century, for on this site, and that of the church 
 of Santa Prassede, which is near, it is known that some of 
 the first Christian churches were erected. 
 
Two Tears in the Pontifical Zouaves. 151 
 
 The senator Pudens, .his mother Priscilla, his sons 
 Novatus and Timotheus, and his two daughters Praxedes 
 and Pudentiana, were among the first converts of St. Peter 
 the Apostle in the city of Rome. Their house was on this 
 spot, and here the Apostle came and resided for the space of 
 nine years. Here it was that he consecrated Linus and 
 Cletus, both of whom were his successors as head of the 
 Church on earth, and Vicar of Christ. The mosaics of the 
 choir of St. Pudentiana are very ancient, and Bosio dis- 
 covered under the floor the existence of a catacomb. It con- 
 sists of a great number of arches, probably the remains of 
 the baths of Timotheus. In this cemetery the illustrious 
 Sixtus deposited nearly 3,000 martyrs who were slain in the 
 early persecutions. The body of St. Pudentiana lies under 
 the principal altar. 
 
 Near this church is the church of St. Praxedes. This 
 church is built on the place where the baths of Novatus 
 formerly stood. This asylum of the primitive Christians 
 became an oratory in the second century, and in the year 
 822, through the insti-umentality of Pascal I. it was made 
 one of the most venerable churches of Rome. The mosaic 
 in the apsis is a representation of heaven. In the centre is 
 a city, towards which are seen coming several pilgrims, with 
 their hands laden with presents. St. Peter and St. Paul, 
 under the figure of two angels, are standing before the door. 
 In the middle of the Eternal City is the King of Ages, hold- 
 ing in his hands a globe. The joyous inhabitants of the 
 heavenly Jerusalem stand around their king with crowns 
 on their heads and palms in their hands. Outside the city 
 is an angel, who points out to the pilgiims the way. Above 
 this is the monogram of Pope Pascal, the restorer of the 
 church. Lower down is a hand coming forth from the 
 heavens, and holding a crown and placing it on the head of 
 our Saviour, who stands with his hands extended and 
 surrounded by sheep at his feet, and by saints at either 
 side. 
 
 At the right is St. Paul, and near him a young virgin, 
 
152 . Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 St. Praxedes, dressed in a vestment of gold, ornamented 
 with precious stones, and holding in her hand a crown, an 
 emblem of the offerings which were made at the altars by 
 the primitive Christians. Pope Pascal occupies a place next 
 to St. Praxedes. He has a square nimbus on his head, 
 showing that the mosaic was erected in his lifetime, and he 
 holds in his hand a model of the church of St. Praxedes. 
 
 To the left of our Saviour is St. Peter, presenting to him 
 a young virgin, St. Pudentiana, dressed like her sister. Be- 
 neath this mosaic is the high altar, under a baldachino, sup- 
 ported by four columns of porphyry, the gift of St. Charles 
 Borromeo, who was Cardinal titular of this church. The 
 fresco on the roof is the work of Julius Romanus. It repre- 
 sents St. Praxedes and St. Pudentiana gathering with 
 sponges the blood of the martyrs, and squeezing it into a 
 well. 
 
 Near this is the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo. In this 
 chapel are preserved two precious relics of the Saint, his 
 faldstool, and the table on which he fed the poor. In the 
 centre of the nave is the well into which St. Praxedes poured 
 the blood of the martyrs. In the aisle on the left of the 
 high altar is the chapel of St. Henon, ornamented with 
 beautiful mosaics. In this chapel is preserved the column of 
 the flagellation. It was guarded, by the primitive Christians 
 with religious care, and was placed in this church by Car- 
 dinal Colonna, legate of the holy see. It is of oriental 
 marble. 
 
 Three hundred thousand martyrs, the most remarkable of 
 whom are named in a tablet erected by Pascal I., form the 
 companions of our crucified Lord. Their relics are buried 
 in the church. Attached to Santa Pudentiana and St. Pras- 
 sede are two campanili or bell-towers, that of St. Prassede 
 probably belonging to the ninth century, and in the court 
 before the entrance to the former, remains of the house of 
 Pudens have lately been brought to light. 
 
 Masks were allowed for the two last days of the Carnival, 
 and there was far more life and animation displayed than I 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 153 
 
 liave seen before, particularly the last day. Six English 
 Zouaves disguised as sailors, passed up and down the Corso 
 in a large car, and profusely showered confetti and bouquets 
 at the occupants of the balconies above and the streets below. 
 They also received in return a fair share of bouquets, confetti, 
 &:c., from the ladies of the balconies. As the Zouaves were 
 forbidden to take part in the Carnival in uniform, I put on 
 my suit of pekin, or civilian, and a mask. I carried on a 
 brisk fire for some time, but having got separated from Duke, 
 witli whom I started, and tlie war of confetti becoming rather 
 too hot — the mask hindered me from seeing all my assail- 
 .ants in the streets, and its very prominent nose was a great 
 object of attack — I found it better to unmask. I was thus 
 better able to reply to my assailants, and to find my friend 
 ^gain. 
 
 I cannot say I obtained many bouquets to reward my 
 exertions ; but then they are not so easily got, and buy- 
 ing them is rather expensive. We finished off the Carnival 
 ■of 1870 by going to the grand benediction at the Gesii, 
 which is attended by the Senator, and was crowded to 
 -excess. 
 
 On Ash Wednesday I was present in St. Peter s at the 
 Papal Chapel, and got the Holy Father's blessing, and we 
 visited again with much interest the three churches appointed 
 for the stations of Lent on that day, viz., St. Maria in Cos- 
 medin — where we saw exposed the relics of a great number 
 of martyrs — Santa Sabina and Sant' Alessio. 
 
 On the feast of St. Frances of Rome I visited the rooms 
 which she inhabited near San Michele, and the church in the 
 Roman forum. There is a beautiful statue of the Saint 
 underneath the high altar, over her tomb, which is orna- 
 mented with rare marbles and bronzes, after the design of 
 Bernini. 
 
 Monsignor Stonor is anxious to get up some active amuse- 
 ments for the English Zouaves. We have lately been prac- 
 tising cricket in the Villa Borghese, and there is a match to 
 come off to-morrow morning between the English Zouave 
 
154 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 eleven and eleven English visitors. I have been practising- 
 with the others, but do not expect to be amongst the 
 eleven. 
 
 On Wednesday last we had the sham-fight or field-day 
 that has been so many times proposed and put off on account 
 of the bad weather. Now at last it has come off, but I do 
 not think it was a very brilliant affair, at least as far as our 
 part of the field was concerned. After a wet winter for this 
 climate spring has now set in, and we have had some 
 beautifully genial weather. However, during two days of 
 this week we have experienced a piercing tramontanaf^ 
 To-day is dull and mild. The early trees are just now 
 budding. 
 
 On Tuesday R , W. R , and I went to see the Villa 
 
 Albani, now belongiug to Prince Torlonia. It is situated a 
 short distance outside the Porta Salara, and there is a 
 splendid view from it of the Campagna, and the Apennines 
 covered with snow. This day being one of those before 
 mentioned on which was blowing a cutting tramontana 
 we were unable to enjoy the view much. Even the villa 
 had a somewhat cheerless aspect from the same cause. The 
 grounds are nicely arranged, but the contents of this villa 
 are not equal to those of the Villa Borghese. 
 
 In the Villa Borghese are many rare and beautiful marbles 
 and pictures, but the statuary, both ancient and modern, is 
 exceedingly fine. " David in the act of slaying Goliath," is 
 a very fine work of Canova's, executed while he was yet a 
 boy. The first hall contains fine ancient statues and reliefs. 
 
 The Praetorian camp, or the ruins of it, which can still be 
 seen, is situated between the Porta Pia and the Porta San 
 Lorenzo, and immediately within the Aurelian wall. The 
 ruins are at present partly used as stables for the horses of 
 the dragoons, who as well as the artillery, are quartered at 
 Macao barracks, which are built on this site, and are the finest 
 in Rome. 
 
 * A wind blowing from the mountains. 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 155 
 
 The Prgetorian camp was built by Sejanus, minister of 
 Tiberius, outside the walls of Servius Tullius. The camp 
 was dismantled by Constantine, and three sides of the en- 
 closure — the length of which is over a mile — were included 
 by Aurelian in his wall. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 XIFE AT SANTA GALLA AS CORPOEAL — CHURCH OF SAN MAR- 
 TINO AI MONTI — OF SANT' AGNESE — " VERSEMENT." 
 
 March 20th. — W. R and I have both passed as cor- 
 porals to-day into the 5ienie du S, and we are now quartered 
 at Santa Galla, in the Via Montanara. 
 
 Rome^ April 7th. — W. R and I both like our new 
 
 company very much. Our sergeant-major Desil^, and 
 sergent-fourrier Beaulieu, are both Canadians. They both 
 .appear very pleased that we have passed into their company, 
 and we are on the most friendly terms with them and the 
 other Canadians, and also with the French and Germans. In 
 fact the fellows of the company altogether seem a very nice 
 lot. 
 
 The Captain of the company, M. Talman, is a German, and 
 .a very pleasant man to deal with. Corporal the Baron von 
 Berlichingen is a Bavarian nobleman.^ His manners are 
 pleasing and gentlemanly. I feel very much at home in the 
 company, and I feel quite sorry at the prospect of leaving it 
 so soon. 
 
 I had to take the " week " soon after coming into it. I 
 got through it again satisfactorily, although I had a strict 
 sergeant above me. He, however, allowed me a few hours 
 
 out every day after I had arranged aU the service. W. R 
 
 and I now mount guard as chefs de poste at the smaller posts 
 
 * This gentleman has been, I understand, unfortunately killed in 
 "battle during the late dreadful war in France. To do him justice, let me 
 add, that he died, like so many others of our noble comrades, both 
 French and German, a soldier's death, nobly doing his duty to his 
 country. Requiescat in pace. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 15T 
 
 comprising a corporal and six men, or a corporal and three 
 men. Sometimes, also, we are with a sergeant, though now 
 we get named to more important posts than when we 
 were only acting corporals. The new Theory which was 
 brought out on the " Ecole du Soldat," " Ecole du Tirailleur,"^ 
 &;c., in consequence of the substitution of the Remington 
 for the carbine is a great improvement on the old Theory, 
 especially as regards simplicity of movement. The grades^ 
 including sergeants, corporals, and acting corporals, have 
 been studying it this spring, and the different companies 
 have been exercised on it occasionally. For myself, of 
 course, since I decided — in deference to the wishes of my 
 friends — to return home before the summer, I have not 
 very assiduously studied it. 
 
 Another of the reasons which contributes to make us 
 enjoy our sojourn at Santa Galla is that we have a great 
 friend and pleasant companion in Sergeant Shee, of the 6th, 
 which is quartered here together with our company. This 
 brave man, whom I have always admired as a model soldier, 
 greatly distinguished himself in 18G7, and then obtained a 
 gold medal and his rank of sergeant for being the first to 
 enter a nest of Garibaldians in the Trastevere, they having 
 fired upon the patrol as it passed down the street."^ The 
 well-known Mr. "Woodward holds the rank of sergeant in 
 our company. 
 
 This week we l|ave been occupied witli the Retreat for 
 the Zouaves, which is being given by Father Walshe, S. J. 
 for the English, Irish, and Scotch Zouaves. The general 
 Communion will take place on Saturday at the church of 
 St. John of the Florentines. 
 
 To-day I am finishing two consecutive days' guard at the 
 Polveriera San Paolo, near the gate of St. Paul, whilst 
 our corps is occupied with a field-day. We have here a 
 powder magazine to guard, which is situated near the 
 Protestant cemetery, close to the pyramid tomb of Caius 
 Cestius. Very near is Monte Testaccio, a mountain on a 
 small scale formed entirely of broken pottery, the continued 
 
 * See Chapter II. 
 
158 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 accumulation of many ages. The sides are now excavated, 
 and in them are formed very good caves for keeping wine. 
 In fact, a great part of the supply of wine for the in- 
 habitants of Rome is stored here. 
 
 We have now amongst the English Zouaves three ser- 
 geants, seven corporals, and several lance-corporals. There 
 are two Irish captains, viz., Captain D'Arcy and Captain 
 De la Hoyde, and one Irish corporal. The Irish Zouaves are 
 now much reduced in numbers. At present our countrymen 
 appear to be in very good favour with the authorities, — 
 much better, I think, than when I first joined the corps. 
 My old captain, M. Thomale, told me that I ought to re- 
 engage now I had passed corporal. I replied that I was 
 very sorry to be unable to do so. 
 
 One day during my " week " I visited the church of San 
 Martino ai Monti. I descended into the subterranean 
 church which Pope St. Sylvester formed out of the baths 
 of Titus in the time of Constantino the Great. I saw there 
 a very ancient painting of our Blessed Lady, remains of 
 ancient frescoes on the walls, and the tomb of Cardinal 
 Tommasi. In this subterranean church two councils of the 
 Catholic Church were held under Pope St. Sylvester, at 
 which the Emperor Constantino was present. 
 
 In this church there are relics of a great many saints and 
 martyrs. This church belongs to the Carmelites. The good 
 taste with which its rich gildings, its marbles, its columns, 
 and its paintings are arranged make it one of the most 
 beautiful churches in Rome. The aisles are divided from the 
 nave by twenty-four columns of the Corinthian order, of 
 various kinds of marble.^ 
 
 Under this church, so resplendent with marble and paint- 
 ings, is another which shows the modest attire primitive 
 poverty arrayed itself in. Christianity, which in early times 
 hid itself in the caves and ruins of old buildings, con- 
 cealed itself here in the ruins near the baths of Titus. 
 
 ^ The landscapes on the wall are by Poussin, and two paintings near 
 the altar of St. Mary Magdalen are by Francesco. The paintings in the 
 chapel of the Blessed Virgin are by Cavalieri. 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 159 
 
 There is in the subterranean church a beautiful mosaic, re- 
 presenting the mysterious Eve, to whom God promises the 
 victory over the dragon. At her feet is Pope Sylvester, 
 a happy witness of the result of this struggle. He is paying 
 homage to the Blessed Virgin under the title of the Joy of 
 "Christians. St. Sylvester is surrounded by a. noble army of 
 martyrs, whose blood was shed for the faith for which he 
 •contended. A tablet, inserted in the wall, has the following 
 inscription : " When Pope Sergius the younger occupied the 
 pontifical throne, there were placed under this altar the 
 bodies of Sylvester, pope, and Fabian and Soter, popes and 
 martyrs, and of the holy martyrs, &c." All these bodies 
 were brouo^ht from the catacombs of St. Priscilla on the Via 
 Salara. 
 
 I visited some time since the Catacombs and church of 
 Sant' Agnese,"^ situated about one mile and a half outside the 
 Porta Pia, on the Via Nomentana. The Catacomb is most 
 interesting, and the tombs are in a better state of preserva- 
 tion than in San Calisto. The mural paintings are very 
 worthy of attention. The extent, too, of this Catacomb is 
 very great, and it is said that the students of a college were 
 once lost in its galleries through their having strayed from 
 the guide.. 
 
 The church is also very remarkable for its antiquity. It 
 is of the Basilica form. It is now partly underground, and 
 there are galleries built on, or rather supported by, pillars 
 .and arcades in the interior. On the feast of St. Agnes the 
 two lambs are here blessed from whose wool the palliums 
 of the archbishops are made. This ceremony usually attracts 
 a great number of English and other visitors. 
 
 Near Sant' Agnese is the equally ancient church of Santa 
 
 * Regarding the church of St. Agnes we find the following note in the 
 ** Lives of the Saints," Vol. I. ** A church was huilt on this spot in the 
 time of Constantino the Great, and was repaired by Pope Honorius, in 
 the seventh century. It is now in the hands of Canons Regular, stand- 
 ing without the walls of Rome, and is honoured with her relics (those of 
 St. Agnes) in a very rich silver shrine, the gift of Pope Paul V., in 
 whose time they were found in this church, together with those of St. 
 Emerentiana." 
 
160 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Constanza, containing the bodies of several saints and 
 martyrs and some ancient mural paintings. 
 
 On tlie Via Nomentana, about seven miles from Kome, are 
 the newly discovered church and catacomb of St. Alexander. 
 On our way to Mentana we were able to catch a passing 
 glimpse of the ruins of the church. I believe it would have 
 well repaid a visit, only that we then were pressed for 
 time. 
 
 From Dr. Smith's " Ancient Geography " we learn that 
 the inhabitants of ancient Nomentum once fought against 
 Rome, and that it was afterwards the abode of Seneca, Mar- 
 tial, Ovid, and Nepos. 
 
 April 11th. — To-day R and I made our versement 
 
 i.e., we gave up all our regulation effects, uniform, he, at the 
 magazine at Salviati. We received the account of th& 
 money due to us on our masse, less the deductions made for 
 some slight dilapidations. We can hardly be said to have 
 yet left the corps of the Zouaves, for we shall not get our 
 conges until we are prepared to leave Rome, which we do 
 not intend to do till the 28th. Thus we shall have Holy 
 week and Easter week free, and be able to see once more the 
 grand ceremonies of the Eternal City. 
 
 We visited Santa Prassede to-day. We saw and venerated 
 there the column to which our Lord was bound durinor His- 
 scourging, and three thorns of His crown of thorns. We 
 saw the well into which St. Praxedes put the blood of the 
 holy martyrs which she collected after their execution, and 
 the stone on which she sometimes slept. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 DIARY DURING HOLY WEEK — BASILICA OF ST. JOHN LATERAN — 
 EASTER FESTIVITIES. 
 
 April 12th, 1870. — E, and I have now left barracks, and 
 
 we have taken up our quarters at the Pension, Via Monserrata, 
 where we have very comfortable beds. To-day we visited 
 the baths of Caracalla, the magnificent ruins of which pleased 
 lis very much. In the course of our visit there a storm arose, 
 with thunder and lightning, and we were obliged to take 
 refuge for an liour or more in the Osteria del Carciofolo. To- 
 day we dressed en peJcin. 
 
 April 13th. — We visited to-day the library of the Vatican. 
 We walked through the ante-chamber and the grand hall 
 which is both beautiful and magnificent. We saw there the 
 present of the King of Prussia to the Holy Father, in 
 porcelain of Sevres, and those of Charles X. of France, in 
 malachite — one being a splendid crucifix, and the other an 
 immense vase or basin — as well as the present, in Scotch 
 granite, of the Duke of Northumberland, made to Cardinal 
 Antonelli, and a large, fine specimen of malachite. We had 
 not time enough to see the other halls, and the fine illu- 
 minated books ; but we hope to return another day to see 
 them. 
 
 Afterwards we went into St. Peter's for the oflice of Tene- 
 bi*(B. The chant of the Lamentations was the most plaintive 
 and mournful possible. In these, and the " Miserere " which 
 follows, the Church bewails the sufi*erings of her beloved 
 Spouse on Calvary, and the sins of men which caused them, 
 and nowhere can her grief be found so well expressed as by 
 
 11 
 
162 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 the solemn chants of the choirs of the Sistine, St. Peter's, 
 and St. John Lateran. This year the former choir sings 
 all the offices of Holy Week in St. Peter's. This arrange- 
 ment has been made in order to accommodate the bishops and 
 others present in Rome during the Council, as in the Sistine 
 chapel there is room only for a limited number. 
 
 14th, Holy Thursday. — Went first to St. Mark's and then 
 to Saint Peter's, where we arrived in time to hear the " Gloria 
 in excelsis," the joyous singing of which is an agreeable 
 variety amidst the mourning of Holy Week. The " Bene- 
 dictus " sung to-day was a very fine piece. The relics of the 
 handkerchief of St. Veronica, which miraculously received 
 the impression of Our Lord's countenance, of a portion of 
 the true cross, of the spear with which Our Lord's side was 
 opened, and of one of the nails with which He was crucified, 
 were brought out to the front of the balcony over the statue 
 of St. Veronica, to be venerated by the congregation, who 
 kneel to receive the benediction. The Apostolic benediction 
 bestowed from the balcony over the portico by the Holy 
 Father is given in cope and mitre, while on Easter Sunday 
 the Pope wears the triple crown. 
 
 Afterwards takes place the Mandatum, or washing of the 
 feet by the Pope , and the Coena, or repast, at which thirteen 
 poor priests are waited on by him. After the example of 
 our Blessed Lord, the Sovereign Pontiff here humbles him- 
 self to wash the feet of these thirteen pilgrims, and after- 
 wards to wait upon them himself at table. I have never 
 been able yet to see this remarkable ceremony performed by 
 the Holy Father, the crowd being generally very great, and 
 admission to the Coena being granted only by ticket. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited St. John Lateran for the 
 Tenebroe. The responses, etc., of the Lamentations were very 
 
 beautiful ; the " Miserere," too, was most striking. R 
 
 preferred the singing of them here to that of the Sistine, but 
 I cannot say that I agreed with him. We visited the Holy 
 Sepulchre at the churches of St. Clement, La Trinita del 
 Pellegrini, and St. John's before mentioned. La Trinita dei 
 Pellegrini is a very fine institution for the lodging and enter- 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 163 
 
 tainment, free of charge, of pilgrims who come to Rome for 
 the ceremonies of Holy Week. We saw here Cardinals, 
 Princes, and other persons of high rank engaged in washing 
 the feet of the pilgiims. After this was finished the latter 
 were served by them at table. The number of pilgrims was 
 very great, the institution being capable of holding a large 
 number. Tlie Cardinals and others waited on them and saw 
 that they were properly entertained. 
 
 In the upper rooms of the " Trinita," Princesses and other 
 ladies of rank were doing a.s much for the women, who were 
 lodged in a separate part of the institution. The crowds of 
 pei*sons who came to witness these acts of humble charity 
 were so great as to make it almost impossible to pass tlu'ough 
 some of the lower rooms. 
 
 15th, Good Friday.— Went to St. Peter's for the Mass of 
 the Pre-sanctified ; the reproaches commencing, "Popule 
 mens, quid feci tibi ? " sung by the choir, are most plaintive, 
 and full of tenderness and sorrow. The procession, in which 
 the Holy Father carries back the Blessed Sacrament to 
 the high altar from the altar where It had been laid the 
 previous day, often called the Holy Sepulchre, is accom- 
 panied by the singing of the "Vexilla Regis," which was 
 magiiificently rendered by the choir. In the evening we 
 went to San Marcello for the " Ora desolata" or " desolate 
 hours " of our Blessed Lady, and heard the " Stabat Mater.'* 
 
 I copy the extracts below from the interesting account in 
 " Rome, its Churches, <j&c.," commencing with Holy Thursday 
 evening in St. Peter's : — " What a desolate appearance does 
 the entire church present. No holy water in the fonts ; no 
 cross or candlestick on the altars ; all seemed desolate, and 
 reminding me much of those beautiful cathedrals in Eng- 
 land, still preserving their Catholic appearance ; but, alas ! 
 their altars are desolate, for the glory of them has departed; 
 but in St. Peter's one spot is yet radiant with light — the re- 
 pository — whither all are hastening to pay their adorations. 
 After the ' tenehrw ' in the chapel of the choir was con- 
 cluded, a procession of the chapter was formed, and they 
 proceeded to wash the high altar. Wine and honey were 
 
 11—2 
 
164 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 poured on it, and then each of the canons, with a small 
 besom, went up and wiped the altar ; the choir in the mean- 
 time sung the antiphon, ' Diviserunt vestimenta mea,' and 
 the Psalm, ' Deus, Deus meus, respice in me.' When the 
 chapter retire, the altar remains entirely uncovered, and the 
 hundred and twenty-two lights round the confession of St. 
 Peter's are extinguished ; a shade of darkness hangs over the 
 spirits, which seems to impart itself to all around, the pro- 
 portions of the vast Basilica seem doubled, and the few 
 lights which are placed in large candlesticks through the 
 church, to direct the steps of the worshippers to the reposi- 
 tory, serve only to show the mysterious darkness which on 
 this day reigns through all the chapels and the transepts of 
 this glorious temple. After leaving St. Peter's, we proceed 
 to visit the repositories in the different churches. The most 
 beautiful are those of St. Anthony of the Portuguese, the 
 GesTi, SS. Dominico e Sisto, and St. Catherine of Sienna. 
 Thus the pious Romans spend their evening, and the streets 
 are crowded, for all Rome seems to go forth to visit the place 
 where they had laid their Lord. In some of the churches a 
 sermon is preached on the Passion, to which crowds hasten 
 to prepare for the ceremonies of the coming day. 
 
 " How different the feelings with which these days are 
 observed in the Holy City to what they are in other places 
 — a feeling of the realities of the solemnity seems to pervade 
 the entire masses of the people. But Good Friday has 
 arrived, all Rome seems in mourning ; the Bishops have laid 
 aside their purple stockings, and the cardinals their silk 
 cappas, and have assumed those of serge. Every church has 
 its devotions in addition to the usual solemnities of the day. 
 In some the three hours' agony of our Lord is preached ; in 
 others the desolation of the Blessed Yirgin during these 
 
 three hours The office commences at the Sistine amidst 
 
 the appearance of son^ow, the Grand Penitentiary officiating; 
 Moses and the Prophets have bewailed the death of the Just, 
 who Himself has prayed for His murderers." 
 
 16th, Holy Saturday. — Went to St. John Lateran, where 
 Cardinal Patrizi, the Pope's Vicar, officiated as usual. We 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 165 
 
 arrived about eight, and found the ceremonies of the day 
 already commenced. At first the Basilica presented the 
 mournful appearance of the preceding days ; we heard the 
 prophecies read, and afterwards the Cardinal Vicar, the 
 sacred ministers, and priests form in procession, tlie paschal 
 candle being carried, and a chant sung by the choir, who also 
 form part of the procession, which now wends its way to the 
 Baptistery of Constantine, situated outside of the Basilica. 
 After the blessing of the font, the Cardinal proceeded to bap- 
 tize the Jews — the neophytes consisting this year of two 
 Jews and one Jewess — who are clothed in white, emblematic 
 of the baptismal robe of innocence. I was unable myself to 
 see this ceremony performed, on account of the crowd, but 
 R was more fortunate, and told me it was a very beau- 
 tiful one. As the procession returned to the Basilica, I saw 
 it very well ; the calm, devout demeanour of the newly- 
 made Christians, clothed in white, made it very edifying 
 and in teres tincj. 
 
 After returning to the Basilica the neophytes are con- 
 firmed; then the Litanies are recited, the candidates for 
 Holy Orders, which are to-day administered by the Cardinal 
 Vicar, being prostrate during them. At this time the Cardinal 
 lays aside the purple cope and vests for Mass, the ministers 
 take oflT their purple and put on white vestments, and the 
 whole Basilica and assistants have suddenly assumed a 
 festal appearance, and the aspect of mourning has as sud- 
 denly disappeared. At the commencement of Mass the 
 scene is the expression of joy and gladness, for now the 
 Church celebrates the eve of the great Paschal Feast of 
 Easter, and the " Gloria in excelsis " is again sung. Anyone 
 who has witnessed this expression of the change from the 
 mourning of Holy Week to the joy of the Christian Church 
 in the glorious resurrection of her Divine Spouse, cannot but 
 have been moved to feelings of gladness, in sympathy with 
 the mind of the Church in commencing and preparing for 
 the great Feast of Easter. After the commencement of the 
 Mass the ordinations are proceeded with by the Cardinal 
 Vicar. He commences with the candidates for the tonsure ; 
 
lOG Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 then he ordains those for minor orders, next the subdeacons, 
 then the deacons, and lastly the priests, who finish the cele- 
 bration of the Mass with him. 
 
 This being the first time we had witnessed an ordination, 
 we found it very interesting, and especially that of the 
 priests. The ceremony lasted a very long time, the candi- 
 dates for Holy Orders being very numerous ; their devotion 
 and recollection was very striking ; very fine pieces of music 
 were played and sung during the vesting of the different 
 Orders, which is performed by the Cardinal himself We did 
 not wait till the end, as the ceremonies were not concluded 
 till the afternoon. 
 
 The Basilica of St. John Lateran deserves more than a 
 passing remark, for it takes precedence of every other in 
 Rome and the world; it is the special Cathedral of the 
 Sovereign Pontiff, as Bishop of Rome. On the walls near 
 both its entrances its titles are inscribed, " Mater eccle- 
 siarum et caput." The exterior fa9ade is of great height 
 and of beautiful proportions. It is ornamented at the top 
 with colossal statues of our Blessed Saviour, St. John the 
 Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist, to whom the Basilica 
 is dedicated; the aspect of this fa9ade is very chaste and 
 imposing, and is preferred by many to that of St. Peter's. 
 
 Over the grand portico is a fine balcony, or loggia, from 
 which the Holy Father gives the Benediction on the Feasts 
 of the Ascension and of St. John the Baptist. 
 
 The top of the fa9ade and its statues form one of three 
 principal objects which stand out prominently in relief at 
 various points from fifteen to twenty miles distance from the 
 city. These are, the cupola of St. Peter's, the cavipanile 
 and domes of St. Maria Maggiore, and the fagade of St. 
 John Lateran. Thus is modern Rome distinguished from 
 every other city — by the beauty and variety of her Christian 
 temples. 
 
 On the steps of the grand entrance a beautiful view of 
 the bold scenery of the Sabines and of the pretty Alban 
 mountains can be obtained. 
 
 On entering the majestic Basilica the principal features- 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 167 
 
 we notice are the immense width of the nave, the beautiful 
 roof, the Gothic canopy over the high altar erected or 
 restored by Pius IX., the mosaics of the apse, and the 
 gigantic statues of the Apostles on either side. In the left 
 transept is the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, in which is 
 carefully preserved the table of the Last Supper, the taber- 
 nacle here being formed by rare and costly marbles and 
 precious stones. In the right transept is preserved the flag 
 of John Sobieski, recalling the victory of Vienna ; and there 
 is here an organ of such tremendous power as to give rise to 
 a fear lest the full power of its deep notes should break the 
 glass in the windows. The high altar contains part of the 
 very altar which the Apostle St. Peter used for the celebra- 
 tion of the Holy Sacrifice. It has been covered with marble 
 by Pius IX. It has been already mentioned that part of 
 this same altar, used by St. Peter, is kept in Santa Puden- 
 tiana. 
 
 The history of the site of the Confession I have never 
 been able to learn to a certainty, but it is said to have been 
 the spot where St. John the Evangelist was imprisoned. 
 
 In the canopy over the high altar are kept the heads of 
 St. Peter and St. Paul. 
 
 The Corsini chapel contains many beautiful and valuable 
 objects. The Pietdj in the subterranean chapel has been 
 already mentioned as a beautiful work of art. The Torlonia 
 chapel contains some fine monuments. 
 
 The museum in the Lateran Palace contains Christian 
 inscriptions taken from the catacombs, sarcophagi, and a 
 very fine mosaic floor found amongst the ruins of ancient 
 Home. 
 
 In the group of buildings of which the Scala Santa and 
 Sancta Sanctoruon form a part, a beautiful mosaic is seen on 
 the exterior. This formerly was the apse of the triclinium 
 of the ancient palace of the Lateran, built in the eighth 
 century and afterwards destroyed by fire. 
 
 17th, Easter Sunday. — A great many details having been 
 given already about this feast, I will only give here the few 
 notes I put down at the time for this particular year. 
 
168 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 We were present in St. Peter's for the Mass celebrated to- 
 day by the Holy Father himself, and had a good place, 
 Avhere we were able to see the Holy Father and all the 
 ceremony. The sound of the trumpets at the Elevation, the 
 " Benedictus," and the " Sanctus," were extremely beautiful. 
 The singing of the Sistine clioir is always very striking, and 
 I think so particularly now that I am so soon leaving the 
 Eternal City, and can hardly hope to hear it again, at least 
 for some years to come ; and I cannot look on this matchless 
 temple of the Apostles and its many beauties without feel- 
 ings of sorrow and regret at being so soon obliged to quit 
 the city of Rome, and to be no longer able to behold the 
 familiar scenes so often appreciated and enjoyed in this gTand 
 Basilica. 
 
 There was to-day an enormous crowd assembled in the 
 Piazza San Pietro to receive the Benediction " Urbis et 
 Orbis" bestowed to-day by the Holy Father on the Universal 
 Church, and whose members, from so many countries far and 
 near, were there to be seen gathered together. The voice of 
 the Holy Father was clear and loud, and his action while 
 pronouncing the words of the benediction very energetic. 
 The cannon of Castel Sant' Angelo announced the conclusion 
 of the solemn act, and this was followed by the acclamations 
 of the people resounding throughout the piazza. 
 
 In the evening took place the illumination of the fa9ade 
 and dome of the Basilica, in honour of the feast of the day. 
 The first, or silver illumination was not a success on account 
 of the wind, but the golden was as beautiful as usual. 
 
 April 18th. — Grand fireworks at the Piazza del Popolo, on 
 the slope of the Pincio. The representation of Jerusalem 
 and its temple was the principal design. The whole was 
 very pretty. 
 
 19th. — This evening took place the amateur theatricals 
 got up by the English Zouaves at the Teatro Argentina. It 
 was a great success, as we have some comrades who are very 
 clever in this way. We had a very select company of 
 spectators, including some of the dlite of English Catholic 
 society in the city. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 169 
 
 20th. — To-day took place the horse-races on the Via 
 Appia, beyond the tomb of Cecilia Metella. These are got 
 up by English gentlemen and others. As we were walking 
 out on the Via Appia we turned somewhat out of our way 
 to see a race. The horses went a very good pace, but we 
 did not learn who was the fortunate winner. One of our 
 comrades, who had been anxious not to miss seeing the race, 
 had some little reason to regret going there, as in the very 
 short time that we spent there he was robbed of his purse. 
 
 To-day there was a general illumination of the city, in 
 honour of the return of Pius IX. from Gaeta, and of his 
 deliverance from accident at Sant* Agnese, on the 12th inst. 
 The anniversary of both these events fell this year in Holy 
 Week. The Holy Father went to that church to-day, 
 smd on his return in the evening he received quite an ova- 
 tion. The fa9ade of St. Peter's was lighted up with Bengal 
 fire, and presented a very fine appearance. Near the bridge 
 of Sant' Angelo there was a Madonna placed in a niche sur- 
 rounded by jets of gas. This had a fine efiect. We admired 
 the illuminated steamboats on the Tiber, at the Ripetta, and 
 the illuminations of the Via della Scrofa,,of the Piazza San 
 Lorenzo in Lucina — also a Madonna, — of the Roman College, 
 and of the Via Baullari, in front of the Farnese Palace. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE VIA APPIA, COLUMBAKIA, AND CATACOMBS. 
 
 The Via Appia, made B.C. 310 by Appius Claudius, con- 
 nects Eome with Terracina and the south of Italy. This 
 regina viarum is certainly one of the best routes one can 
 take who is interested in either classic or Christian antiqui- 
 ties. Anticipating by half a mile the Way named above, 
 we will start from the Piazza Bocca della Yerita, so called 
 from the popular tradition that the ancients were accustomed 
 to place their hands in the mouth of a colossal statue when 
 affirming anything in a solemn manner. If they told the 
 truth they were able to withdraw their hands ; if not, their 
 hands remained immoveable as a punishment for their false- 
 hood. The head of this statue is now in the vestibule of 
 Sta. Maria in Cosmedin. 
 
 The first object of interest is the ruined palace of the 
 Caesars on the left, to which the words of the poet are so 
 appropriate : 
 
 ** Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower grown 
 Matted and mass'd together — hillocks heaped 
 On what were chambers ; arch crush'd, columns strewn 
 In fragments, choked up vaults, and frescoes steeped, 
 In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd, 
 Deeming it midnight. Temples, baths, or halls ? 
 Pronounce who can ; for all that learning reap'd 
 From her research hath been that these are walls — 
 Behold the Imperial mount ! 'Tis thus the mighty falls. 
 There is the moral of all human tales ; 
 'Tis but the same rehearsal of the past, 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 171 
 
 First freedom and then glory — when that fails 
 Wealth, vice, corruption, — barbarism at last. 
 And history with all her volumes vast, 
 Hath but one page — 'tis better written here, 
 Where gorgeous Tyranny hath thus amass'd 
 All treasures, all delights that eye, or ear. 
 
 Heart, soul could seek, tongue ask Away with words ! draw near." 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 These magnificent ruins cannot fail to impress the thought- 
 ful visitor with an idea of the greatness of the ancient 
 Romans, as we wander through those massive substructions, 
 admire the perpendicular lines as perfect as ever, and then 
 ascend and view the remains of the spacious temples, halls, 
 library, etc., once ornamented with the most rare marbles^ 
 statues of great beauty, richly coloured paintings ; and if we 
 then consider that the Palatine Hill was once one vast 
 palace, we are struck with astonishment at the skill and 
 energy of the people who produced such things ; and, at the 
 same time, the Christian will adore in silence the dispositions 
 of the Providence of God, who decreed the overthrow of 
 that Paganism, and its most splendid monuments, which 
 had shown itself such a determined enemy to Christianity. 
 
 It should be mentioned that the excavations have been 
 carried on with great energy of late years, and many por- 
 tions of the finest part of the Palace have been brought to 
 light ; and the different halls, library, temples, etc., can now 
 be distinguished. Immediately below tlie Palace of the 
 Caesars the road passes through the site of the Circus 
 Maxi7)ius" now partly occupied by the Roman Gasworks, 
 After the churches of St. Gregory, and of SS. John and 
 Paid, which we leave on our left on the Coelian, we come to 
 the site of the Porta Capena, of the Republican period, of 
 which not a vestige now remains ; immediately afterwards 
 on the right we observe the prison and church of Santa 
 Balbina, built from the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. 
 This is a reformatory for young prisoners, who are taken 
 care of and instructed by a community of monks, by 
 whom, they are taught the useful trades. A little 
 
172 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 farther on are the imposing remains of the Baths of Cara- 
 calla. The. grand hall is of immense height and size, and the 
 mosaic floors now remaining very beautiful ; the massiveness 
 of these ruins may be imagined from what has been related 
 of the effect produced from the fall of a portion of the roof 
 or arching — that the neighbours felt the shock as that of an 
 earthquake. The present extent of the ruins is very great, 
 but does not include a third of the whole of the original 
 Thermae, or baths. I have picked up remains of beautiful 
 mosaics, mural paintings, serpentine marbles, and rosso 
 antico in the vineyards adjoining, at some distance from 
 the present ruins. 
 
 Next we come to the church of SS. Nereus and Achilles, 
 on the same side, and then to that of San Sisto Vecchio, on 
 the opposite side. There is a monastery adjoining this church 
 which was rebuilt by St. Dominic himself, and in which he 
 wrought the miracle of raising a dead man to life who 
 had been killed by a fall from his horse ; in one of the 
 rooms we saw the painting representing this fact, and all the 
 circumstances connected therewith. Before reaching this 
 point the ancient Via Latina branched off from the Via 
 Appia. At the Porta Latina — now walled up — we visit the 
 church of St. John, and the chapel on the very spot where 
 this holy Evangelist suffered martyrdom for the faith, in a 
 cauldron of boiling oil, though miraculously preserved from 
 death. Before reaching the Porta San Sebastiano we visit 
 the tomb of the Scipios, and the Columbaria. 
 
 These Columbaria — so called from the apertures re- 
 sembling dovecotes— probably formed the burial-place of 
 some wealthy burial association of the ancients. We enter 
 a door, and descend some twenty feet, and then behold the 
 Columbarium, having recesses arranged in tiers, one above 
 the other, and containing urns with the ashes of the dead. 
 The form of the cemetery is square, about, I should suppose, 
 eighteen feet by eighteen, and of equal height ; the apertures 
 are formed out of the wall, and in this small compass there was 
 room to contain the ashes of more than a thousand persons. 
 
 The Arch of Drusus is reached before the gate of St. Se- 
 
Two Years in the Poiitijical Zouaves. 173 
 
 bastian. This fine old arch was built to support the aque- 
 duct which conveyed the water to the baths of Caracalla, 
 and the stones of which it is composed were originally 
 clamped together with iron, as were those of the Coliseum 
 and other imperial works. The iron, however, has long since 
 disappeared; the masonry remains in all its solidity, not- 
 withstanding the violence it must have suffered, when the 
 iron clamps were forced out of it. On nearing the gate 
 before-mentioned, we see two towers flanking it on either 
 side, and we notice the immense thickness of the walls, ori- 
 ginally wide enough to drive a carriage along the top of 
 them. At the time the walls of Kome were built they must 
 have been of great strength, the mode of warfare of that 
 time considered; the present walls were built by the 
 Emperor Aurelian, but they have been restored in many 
 places since that period. 
 
 After passing the walls of the city, the Civita Vecchia 
 Railway, and some ruins of ancient Roman tombs, we come 
 to the chapel of " Domine quo vadis ? " built on the spot 
 where St. Peter, flying from Rome and persecution, met his 
 Lord and Master going into the city, and there addressed to 
 Him the question, " Domine quo vadis ? " (" Lord, whither 
 goest Thou ? ") He received the answer, " Venio iterum ci-u- 
 cifigi" ("I come to be crucified again "), on which St. Peter 
 immediately returned to Rome to receive the crown of 
 martyrdom. 
 
 Farther on the same side branches off another road, leading 
 for some distance towards the grotto of Egeria. There is a 
 remnant of the ancient statue above the fountain of the 
 grotto, which is a cool retreat in summer, and abounds in 
 ferns. 
 
 Near the grotto of Egeria, towards the Via Appia, are the 
 remains of a temple of Bacchus, now converted into a small 
 chapel. Returning now to the Via Appia, we next pass the 
 Catacomb of Pretextatus on the left, and then reach that of 
 San Calisto opposite. On entering the vineyard under which 
 the latter is excavated, we see the ruins of an ancient build- 
 ing, and near it some cypresses, and underneath the remains 
 
174 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 of a small cemetery ; this building was used probably as a 
 cliapel, or as a place of assembly for the Christians on the 
 occasion of their visiting the tombs of the martyrs in the 
 Catacomb. 
 
 As the Catacombs cannot fail to interest every Christian, 
 a few more remarks about them will not, I trust, be deemed 
 out of place. 
 
 The early Christians, from the Apostolical age, were 
 accustomed to take great care of their dead, and especially 
 of their martyrs, and to bury them in their own cemeteries, 
 which they excavated at great labour underneath their 
 own property, so that the dead should not be profaned by 
 Pagan hands. In Rome they had facilities for carrying 
 out their desires, both in the customs of burial of their Pagan 
 neighbours — for they were also accustomed to care for their 
 departed friends, and to assemble at their tombs on the 
 " dies natalis " * — as well as in the nature of the volcanic 
 soil in the environs of Pome. The " tufa granular e " was 
 a subsoil, admirably adapted for an excavation of the nature 
 of a catacomb, easy to work, but yet of sufficient consistency 
 to allow of passages, chambers, small chapels, graves, being 
 cut out, and retaining their shape, sides, and roof, with- 
 out any assistance of masonry or brickwork; not only 
 this, but in many instances, there are several stories one 
 above the other. The extent of many of the Catacombs was 
 very great, some of the passages being of great length ; then 
 others branched off in every direction. As the graves were 
 ranged one above the other the whole length of every 
 passage, the number of faithful buried in that of San Calisto 
 alone must have been very great; it is estimated there 
 were 174,000 martyrs and forty-six Popes there interred, 
 according to the inscription in the church of St. Sebastian, 
 which is built over a portion of this cemetery. When we add 
 to these figures the probable number of other Christians, not 
 martyrs, buried in the cemetery, and then consider the great 
 number of catacombs in the vicinity of Rome — estimated to be 
 
 * The birthday, or other anniversary of the departed. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 175 
 
 from sixty to one hundred and sixty by different writers — the 
 number of dead contained in the whole nmst amount to some 
 millions. A Christian cannot visit these resting-places of so 
 many martyrs and saints without feelings of veneration and 
 awe; the paintings, too, will arrest attention, as showing 
 forth in the language of Cliristian symbolism the doctrines 
 believed in those early days of Christianity, Both San 
 CJalisto and Sant' Agnese contain many interesting paintings 
 — those of the " Good Shepherd" " Moses striking the Rock" 
 the "Fish and the Loaf" occur very frequently ; I have also 
 seen a small tabernacle — in Sant' Aofnese, I believe — hewn 
 out of the tufa, for the reception of the Blessed Sacrament. 
 On traversing a catacomb one is surprised to find the air so 
 pure and dry ; the latter quality arises from the dry nature 
 of the tufa, and the former from the ventilation produced by 
 the luminaria, or shafts, constructed for that purpose, and 
 for giving a certain amount of light. 
 
 A catacomb was often entered from an Arenaria, or 
 sand-pit, and the earth excavated from the catacomb re- 
 moved through it ; this was for the better security of the 
 entrance, and to prevent observation. In the chapels we 
 see the arcosolia, or altar tombs, and in these the altar 
 was placed over the body of a martyr. Thus in the cata- 
 combs we find the origin of the custom of the church, cele- 
 brating the Holy Sacrifice over the relics of the martyrs and 
 saints. On the subject of the paintings of the catacombs, 
 the Rev. W. H. Neligan writes— he is here speaking of the 
 connection of these with the earliest professors of the Chris- 
 tian faith : — " That they made those paintings, which are to 
 be seen in the subterranean chapels, will appear by com- 
 paring them with the paintings in the baths of Titus, and 
 with those in Pompeii, which had been destroyed by an 
 eruption of Vesuvius, A.D. 79. D. Agincourt, who had 
 devoted thirty years of his life to a study of the fine arts, 
 especially with respect to the different epochs in their his- 
 tory, having compared the paintings in the Catacombs with 
 those in the baths of Titus, and those at Pompeii, which had 
 been then but recently discovered, and extending his 
 
176 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 researches further by comparing them with the paintings 
 of the tomb of the Nasones and of the Columbaria, came to 
 the conclusion that they were the works of the primitive 
 
 Christians The Good Shepherd seems to have the 
 
 most prominent place amongst those paintings. In this our 
 Saviour is represented as bearing a sheep on his shoulders. 
 In a very old painting in San Calisto, he is represented as 
 standing between a sheep and a goat — the goat always 
 representing the sinner in the catacombs, and being typified 
 thus in the Scriptures. The goat is placed on the right 
 hand, as a place of honour, and the sheep on the left. The 
 heresy of the Montanists, one of the earliest which troubled 
 the church, and which denied the power of the church to 
 forgive some of the more heinous sins, gives us the reason 
 for this arrangement being adopted, in order to show that 
 
 such was not the teaching of the church Our Lord's 
 
 healing the paralytic is another subject of painting in the 
 catacombs. The mystical meaning of this is sufficiently 
 clear. The body of the sufferer was typical of the soul 
 palsied by sin, and He who saw both the body and soul of 
 the man with the palsy, said to him, ' Thy sins are forgiven 
 thee.' The first Christians connected this with the Sacra- 
 ment of Penance ; for in the catacomb of Hermes, in im- 
 mediate connection with this subject, we have a penitent 
 kneeling on both knees before the priest, who is giving him 
 absolution." The reverend author also explains the many 
 figures and types representing the Blessed Eucharist, seen 
 in the catacombs, and particularly the " Fish and the bread" 
 so often to be met with. On this head, he says : " Christ, 
 from the very earliest times, was always represented under 
 the figure of the fish, which was considered typical of him, 
 and which in the Greek presents the initials of our Lord's 
 name and office. Any one tolerably acquainted with the 
 Fathers, must be familiar with instances of the fish being 
 considered as representing our Lord, The fish and the bread, 
 when taken together, are a suitable representation of the 
 Eucharist, tlie one representing the outward form, or acci- 
 dents ; the other the hidden reality, or substance." 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pont If Iced Zouaves. 177 
 
 On the subject of the inscriptions taken from the Cata- 
 combs, the reverend author notices their character of brevity 
 and simplicity, which will strike any one who has seen the 
 collections in the Vatican, and Lateran Museums, and else- 
 where. The words " in pace," in peace ; " in Deo," in God ; 
 " depositum in pace," deposited in peace ; " vivas in Deo," 
 mayest thou live to God ; with the name only of the de- 
 ceased, constitute a great number of the iiis( riptions ; "bene 
 merenti," well deserving:, is sometimes added. Husbands 
 and wives are commended for having lived together in har- 
 mony and peace : " Semper Concordes, sine lesione animi, sine 
 ulla querela." Women are commended for their chastity 
 and modesty, and children for amiability and innocence. 
 " Anima dulcis," sweet soul ; " Innocens parvulus," innocent 
 child ; " Innocens agnellus Dei," innocent little lamb of God ; 
 " Agnella innocens," little innocent lamb ; " Palumba sine 
 felle," dove without gall ; " Palumbulus sine felle," little 
 
 dove without anger Nor are the catacombs silent 
 
 with respect to the virgins and widows who were conse- 
 crated to God. We constantly meet with " Virgo devota," 
 devout virgin ; " Ancilla Dei," handmaid of God ; " Virgo 
 votis deposita," here is deposited a virgin consecrated by 
 vow ; and, " Matrona (vidua*) Dei," a widowed matron of 
 God ; " Vidua quae ecclesiam nihil gravavit," a widow who 
 troubled the church in nothing. 
 
 The reverend author before mentioned discusses the various 
 interpretations given to the word "pace" and "requi- 
 escat" so often found amongst the inscriptions. He proves 
 that sometimes it was used as a prayer for the departed, by 
 its resemblance to the following inscriptions, often to be met 
 with : " In paccm estote," may you be in peace ; " Quiescas 
 in pace," mayst thou rest in peace ; " Vivas in pace," mayst 
 thou live in peace. He then continues : — " Prayers for the 
 dead are to be met with constantly. The following are 
 specimens of the inscriptions. The originals are in Greek, 
 and are taken from the Catacombs of SS. Nereus and Achilles: 
 ' Aurelius Olianus, of Paphlagonia, a faithful servant of God ; 
 
 * Original, vidui. 
 
 12 
 
178 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 he sleeps in peace ; remember him, God, for ever.' ' De- 
 metrius and Leontia, to their well deserving daughter 
 Lyrica. Remember, Lord Jesus, our child.' The two fol- 
 lowing are taken from the Catacomb of St. Pretextatus. The 
 first is in Greek and Latin ; the second is in Latin. ' To 
 
 my well-beloved sister, Bon , who died on the 8 day 
 
 before the kalends of November ; may the Almighty God, 
 Christ, refresh thy spirit in Christ.' ' Kalemina, may God 
 refresh thy spirit, together with that of thy sister Hilara.' " 
 The learned author remarks on the similarity of these 
 prayers to that used in every age in the Canon of the Mass, 
 which is as follows : " Remember, O Lord, Thy servants who 
 have gone before us, and who sleep in the sleep of peace ; 
 give them a place of refreshment, blessedness of rest, and 
 
 clearness of light." There are instances also, in 
 
 which the departed soul is commended to the care of some 
 Saint who had already gone to glory. " Domina Basila," or, 
 as it would have been written in after ages, '' ^Sancta Basila, 
 we, Crescentius and Micina, commend to thee our daughter, 
 Crescentina, who lived ten months." Another taken from 
 the same catacomb of Basila, calkd the catacomb of St. 
 Hermes, is as follows : " Aurelius Gemellus, who lived — 
 year and eight months, and eighteen days. A mother made 
 this to her dearest, well-deserving son: In peace I 
 commend to thee, O Basila, the innocence of Gemellus." In 
 the catacomb of SS. Nereus and Achilles, is a fragment 
 of a Latin epitaph. It says the person for whom it was 
 written died in June, and then concludes : " Yibas in pace, 
 et pete pro nobis," mayst thou live in peace, and pray for 
 us. Instances of this description might be quoted without 
 any limit. 
 
 In a work on the Catacombs, the Very Rev. S. Northcote 
 conclusively proves that all those above mentioned were 
 exclusively Christian cemeteries, if any further proofs were 
 needed than the above inscriptions.* 
 
 * Any one, however, who may wish to have further information on 
 this very interesting subject, I can recommend with confidence to read 
 both the work from which the above quotations are taken, and also the 
 interesting work on the *' Catacombs," by the Very Eev. Canon North- 
 cote. 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 179 
 
 Via Appia continued. — To continue our journey onwards, 
 we pass the church of St. Sebastian, wliich has been de- 
 scribed already. On the left, farther on, are the ruins of the 
 immense circus of Caracalla, and near it are some ruins which 
 I have not had time to determine — perhaps a palace or baths 
 connected with the circus. A little further on is the tomb 
 of Cecilia Metella, which is, like the Mausoleum of Adrian 
 — now Fort Sant' Angelo — of the circular form, and of great 
 i5ize ; on the top was added, in the middle ages, some solid 
 masonry to form a castle ; this was probably held' by the 
 Gaetani family, the ruins of whose palace and chapel can be 
 seen on the opposite side. About half a mile farther on, we 
 <jome in sight of a very interesting portion of the "Via 
 Appia," here we see before us a regular street of tombs on 
 ■either side of the way, extending for miles across the Cam- 
 pagna towards Albano. To the antiquarian and classical 
 scholar this portion of the Regina Viarum will have the 
 greatest attraction. 
 
 These tombs were all more or less of magnificent propor- 
 tion, and many were ornamented by marble pillars, and 
 many inscriptions are also to be seen'; but sad havoc was 
 made here in the many sackings of the .city, since the Im- 
 perial times, and especially in that particular one of the 
 Constable of Bourbon. On examining the interior, we find 
 eveiywhere traces of the Pagan custom of burning the dead, 
 and placing the ashes in urns, which are still remaining. 
 One of these tombs, remarkable for solidity and size, now 
 remains standing on a very small base, the other portion 
 having been removed. Its shape now somewhat resembles 
 an enormous mushroom. 
 
 In the Vatican Museum are collected a large number of 
 ancient Pagan sepulchral inscriptions, and any one wishing 
 to compare the Pagan and Christian inscriptions has every 
 facility for doing so. 
 
 The classic scholar will feel interested in visiting the 
 scene of the celebrated contest between the Romans and the 
 Albans in the time of Tullus Hostilius, the third King of 
 Rome. It was on this occasion that the Horatii and the 
 
 12—2 
 
180 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Curiatii fought as the champions of either side ; the ^tragie 
 end of the contest, and the sad subsequent act of the victor 
 are well known. 
 
 There is very much more that could be said about the 
 Via Appia ; for myself I had not sufficient time to examine 
 more, and will conclude this subject by a remark connected 
 with the customs of the ancient Romans with regard to the 
 dead. They often provided in their wills that a feast should 
 be celebrated at their tombs on the Dies Natalis of the 
 departed ; for this purpose all the friends and relatives as- 
 sembled at the tomb on this day, and this custom it was 
 that made it so easy for the Christians also to assemble near 
 their cemeteries, without making themselves a subject of 
 observation and remark to their Pagan neighbours. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 VISIT TO TIVOLI. 
 
 The ancient name of this delightful spot was Tibur * It 
 was a favourite resort of Maecenas, Catullus, Horace, Sallust, 
 and Varus, who had villas there. Many remains are still 
 visible, the chief being a periphral temple, dedicated to the 
 Sibyl Albunea ; an oblong temple of Vesta ; part of a temple 
 of the ancient forum; with two villas of Maecenas and 
 Varus.-|- 
 
 April 21st. — Walked from Rome to Tivoli, accompanied 
 
 by R . We enjoyed the view of the lovely mountains 
 
 as we approached it ; we turned somewhat out of our course 
 to the left, to visit one of the sulphur lakes ; we walked up 
 to the head of it, where it takes its rise, rushing up from a 
 depth of one hundred and eighty feet. The water is warm 
 — over seventy degrees Fahr. — the sulphurated hydrogen 
 
 * In Dr. Smith's ** Ancient Geography," we find the following notes 
 in reference to it : — " Tibur, a town of Latium, on the Anio, founded by 
 the Siculi, first noticed B.C. 446, when M. Claudius retired thither in 
 •exile. Taken by S. Camillus, B.C. 335, after many wars with Rome." 
 
 t In Murray we read: — "Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, a city of the 
 Sicani, founded nearly five centuries before Rome, was one of the early 
 rivals of the Eternal City. . . . The Roman historians tell us that the 
 Sicani were expelled by Tiburtius, Corax, and Catillus, grandsons of 
 Amphiaraus, who came from Greece with Evander, and that the settle- 
 ment derived its name from the eldest of these brothers. . . . The clas- 
 sical associations of Tivoli have made it a memorable spot in the estima- 
 tion of the scholar ; its scenery inspired some of the most beautiful lyrics 
 of Horace. ... He tells us that he often composed his verses while 
 wandering among the groves and cool pastures of the surrounding 
 valleys." 
 
182 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 arising from it, gives it a strong odour, rather unpleasant, 
 but the taste is on the contrary soft and agreeable. We 
 
 both plunged in at this spot ; I was first in, and R was 
 
 astonished at the effect produced by my plunge, for it 
 created a surging and^ boiling in the water, caused by the 
 contact of it with the skin ; added to this it caused a slight 
 irritation or unpleasant soreness. After seeing me in a few 
 
 minutes, R. followed, and experienced the same effects as 
 
 myself We found the water too strongly charged with 
 sulphur, etc., to allow us to remain in it long at this point, 
 but, however, it was long enough to give us both a fine dip. 
 These lakes were once of great extent, but the petrifying 
 effect of the water is so great, that it has created a travertine 
 rock over the greater part of their former extent, the lakes 
 thus gradually diminishing in area, till now they are reduced 
 to very diminutive proportions. The water is celebrated for 
 its power of curing diseases of the skin, and we saw the 
 bathing establishment on the river below the lake. We 
 both carried away some curiosities — petrifactions of rushes 
 and grass. On our return next day we bathed in the 
 river, where we found the water was not so strongly 
 charged with sulphur as in the lake. Farther on we left 
 the high road again, to visit the villa of Hadrian ; this we 
 found in a lovely situation in a pretty valley near a river, 
 the higher part of the villa commanding a magnificent view 
 of the Campagna, with the Eternal City in its midst, of 
 Monte Soracte, the Sabines and Tivoli, of the Alban Hills,, 
 and Monte Cavi. 
 
 It is difficult to give an idea of the splendour this villa 
 must have exhibited in the days of Hadrian ; it must suffice 
 to say that the ruins are magnificent. In one of the " tri- 
 clinia" or grand halls, we saw some remains of beautiful 
 mural decoration, executed with great skill. There were 
 theatres for games, and we noticed one in very good preser- 
 vation ; this was used for aquatic sports, there being a lake 
 in the centre, and seats arranged all round, and there were 
 in addition fine gardens and groves.* 
 
 * " This villa was built from the Emperor Hadrian's designs, in order 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 183 
 
 We ascended the mountain rock behind Tivoli. Now we 
 are amongst the Sabines at last, entirely surrounded by- 
 mountains; in the east are the highest, their snowy peaks 
 standing out in the far distance beautifully white and 
 dazzling; next follow chains of high mountains, dark and 
 bleak, but beautifully sharp and bold in their outlines, and 
 variegated with patches and lines of snow. Next I see 
 three small towns, built on lower mountains, rising from the 
 beautiful valleys, the most distant supposed to be Vicovaro, 
 the nearest, Castel Madama ; the valleys are diversified by 
 undulations, ruined aqueducts, by mediaeval castles, by lovely 
 fields, now clothed with the verdure of spring, and by pretty 
 brooks and torrents. 
 
 If I change places and look west, I see through an opening 
 in the mountains, immediately beneath me, Tivoli and its 
 lovely falls, surrounded by olive groves ; to the right are the 
 picturesque towns of Monticelli and Sant' Angelo ; farther 
 off, Monte St. Orestes, or Soracte, and, farther still, Monte 
 Soriano and Monte Fojano ; immediately before me is a beau- 
 tiful plain, in the midst of which are three small lakes, the 
 sources of the Sulphur Baths of Tivoli — the whole plain 
 was once one fine lake ; farther off I see the Eternal City, 
 crowned by St. Peter's, and in the distance the beautiful 
 blue Mediterranean. 
 
 This is indeed a sweet spot ; here is Tivoli under my feet, 
 built on a rock, cut off from the mountains by the force of 
 the torrent ; the sound of the rushing waters, and the song 
 of the nightingale, make indeed music to the ears, while 
 the bright sun of this climate, and the fresh pure air of the 
 mountains, complete the harmony of the whole scene. 
 
 to include in one spot all he had seen most striking in the course of his 
 travels. It covered a space said by the Roman antiquaries to be from 
 eight to ten miles in circuit. "When first built it must have been more 
 like a town than a villa. Nothing in Italy can be compared to its im- 
 posing ruins. It contains a Lyceum, an Academy, a Poecile, in imita- 
 tion of that at Athens, a Vale of Tempe, a Serapion of Canopus, in imi- 
 tation of that at Alexandria, Greek and Latin Libraries, Barracks for the 
 Guards, a Tartarus, Elysian Fields, and numerous temples. . . . The 
 villa is supposed to have been ruined during the siege of Tibur, by 
 Totila." — Murrav's Handbook. 
 
184 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The gi-and fall at Tivoli is partly artificial, the waters 
 having been brought into one channel by engineers under 
 Gregory XVI., for there was danger of their undermining the 
 town had they continued to pour through the crevices of the 
 rocks under the foundation of its walls. The waters are 
 now brought through a tunnel to one spot, where they fall 
 in a grand mass at least three hundred feet. The effect is 
 very graceful and fi.ne, and the spray is precipitated to a dis- 
 tance of a hundred yards. Formerly the whole water of the 
 river flowed under the town, and broke forth from the rocks 
 in innumerable tiny cascades; the effect of this must have 
 been very picturesque and pretty, but the majestic effect of 
 the grand fall was missing, and the town would in time have 
 been washed away. The innumerable caverns and grottos, 
 washed out of the face of the rock by the force of the water, 
 look very pretty and interesting, and form a pleasing variety 
 in the fa9ade of the rocky precipice, when viewed from the 
 road on the opposite side of the defile ; there one sees at 
 once the destructive effect of water — 
 
 " IS'ot by force, but constancy alone, 
 Drop by drop, water will wear away a stone — " 
 
 and its petrifying power ; while it wears away one rock 
 it forms other tiny ones, in all kinds of fantastic shapes, 
 by petrifaction. The Grotto of the Sibyl exhibits this 
 fantastic effect on a large scale, and the interior of it is 
 most strange and remarkable. Taken as a whole, I consider 
 the scenery at and around Tivoli to be the most lovely I 
 have ever yet beheld. We had not time to visit all the 
 points of interest, but we very much enjoyed a stroll about 
 the rocks near the cascade ; we also visited with pleasure a 
 pretty garden near the river side, above the falls, and from 
 thence we were able to see the tunnel through which the 
 waters are led, under the side of the mountain, to the grand 
 cascade. 
 
 Besides the grand falls. La Cascata, there are two other 
 series of smaller ones, Le Cascatelle, which present great 
 features of beauty when viewed from the opposite side of 
 
TIVOLI — LE CASCATELLE. 
 
 P. 184. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zoiiaves. 185 
 
 the deep ravine into wliich their waters are precipitated ; 
 the variety of scene here helps greatly in making up the 
 different lights and shadows of a fine picture. The view 
 here would, I dare say, be preferred by many to that of La 
 Cascata; in loveliness Le Cascatelle may be equal to La 
 Cascata, but, in my humble opinion, its feature of grandeur 
 is wanting. The Villa d'Este is laid out and arranged with 
 good taste, water being introduced with a very pleasing 
 ■effect. 
 
 A TRIP TO SUBIACO. 
 
 Having sufficiently admired the falls of Tivoli and ex- 
 plored its neighbourhood, we started for Subiaco. It was a 
 curious kind of carriage that carried us on our way rejoicing. 
 A washing basket on two wheels with a board across it to 
 sit upon is the best comparison I know of for our vehicle. 
 As we were three, and there was only room on the board 
 for two, one of us sat in the back part of the basket, his 
 legs elegantly dangling over the side of the basket-like 
 body of our conveyance. But whatever inconvenience 
 we had to put up with in our ricketty carriage was well 
 repaid by the beauty and grandeur of the mountain scenery 
 through which we passed. The bright sunshine made the 
 outlines of the mountains stand out in bold relief against 
 their blue backo^round, and ridored their sides with dark 
 shadows, and made the Anio in its mountain bed dance 
 joyously in the gladsome light. 
 
 A good road, a horse not so good, but yet fresh, jolly com- 
 panions, and a decent cigar, would make the longest road seem 
 short ; but when that road wends its way amid noble 
 mountains, through fresh, grass-clad valleys, past picturesque 
 villages and romantic ruuied mediaeval castles, one soon 
 Beems to come to the journey's end. On our way we passed 
 Vicovaro, famous for a picture of the Madonna, the eyes of 
 which are believed occasionally to move miraculously. 
 
 Shortly after midday we entered the town of Subiaco, 
 which is placed on a hill, and boasts a church built on the 
 side of the hill, and so placed that one altar and half the 
 
186 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 cliurch is above the other part of it. On the summit of 
 the hill is a large building, very ugly. It is a convent of 
 nuns. 
 
 After putting up our horse and having got some refresh^ 
 ment for man and beast, we began the ascent to the cele- 
 brated Benedictine monasteries outside the town. Passing 
 through the gate of the town a venerable, white-bearded 
 old man saluted us in military style. He was one of the 
 first Napoleon's veterans, many of whom still are to be met 
 in some parts of Italy. 
 
 The first monastery reached is that of St. Scholastica, 
 about a mile and a quarter out of Subiaco, and situated on 
 the side of a steep and almost perpendicular hill along the 
 foot of which runs the Anio. In face of the monastery, 
 across the Anio, rises a high, woody hill, on the top of which 
 is planted a cross. The monastery is most interesting in 
 its religious associations, and it also possesses some beau- 
 tifully painted chapels built on the spot where St. Bene- 
 dict and St. Scholastica were wont to walk together con- 
 versing on heavenly subjects. 
 
 The bodies of the two Saints lie here buried together in 
 the church. In the crypt is a chapel called the English 
 chapel, where is shown the resting place of St. Bede, com- 
 monly supposed to be the English Saint, but most likely is 
 St. Bede of Genoa, as our Venerable Bsde is supposed to be 
 buried in Durham Cathedral. 
 
 Having visited this monastery we went on to the Sagro 
 Speco, or Holy Cave, where St. Benedict lived for many 
 years. It is much higher up, and is quite on the steep and 
 almost perpendicular side of the hill. A small convent and 
 Gothic church are built up over the cave in which the 
 Saint passed so many nights and days, and which is still 
 preserved just as it was in his time, and has in it a beauti- 
 ful statue of St. Benedict at prayer when he first came to 
 live there, being then only fourteen years of age. The 
 chapels are beautifully painted with very old frescoes in a 
 high state of preservation, the mountain air being so dry 
 that they have not been injured by damp. The way to this 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 187 
 
 cave, in the Saint's time, was by means of a rope hung from 
 above, by which also he received his food. When he 
 wanted anything he had a bell to ring, which is still pre- 
 served here. 
 
 There is another cave near, where his disciples and the 
 shepherds used to come to see him and hear him preach ; 
 and near it is a bed of thorns on which the Saint threw 
 himself when the devil assailed him with a great tempta- 
 tion, and which, when St. Francis of Assisi came here, he 
 caused to bud forth with beautiful roses. There is in the" 
 chapel an old portrait of the latter saint said to have been 
 done by a monk from life while the Saint was engaged in 
 prayer. 
 
 In one of the chapels are three lamps, presented by the 
 missions of Deal, Eamsgate, and Margate, and which are 
 kept burning at the expense of those missions. One of 
 the most curious and wonderful things is a large mass of 
 rock, quite detached from the mountain's side, and which 
 hangs in a most threatening position right over the monas- 
 tery, and which has remained in this strange manner since 
 St. Benedict's time. Beneath it is a statue of the saint 
 holding up his hand towards it, and on the pedestal is 
 inscribed, " Stay, rock ; thou shalt not harm my 
 children !" It is said that he stood thus and spoke thus as 
 the rock was about to fall on his disciples. A few years 
 since a piece of rock fell on the roof of the chapel and 
 bounded off into the valley below without doing any serious 
 harm, although it was 2,000 pounds in weight. 
 
 In one of the small chapels here are numerous relics. One 
 is exceedingly curious, being a measurement of St. Bene- 
 dict's height, according to which he must have been full 
 six feet eight inches. We were shown over the monastery 
 by a monk, a Prussian by birth, but who spoke English 
 fluently, and seemed much pleased when I mentioned know- 
 ing F , of R-amsgate. 
 
 We met here two most amusing travellers, one a Mr. 
 
 B , an American Catholic, and a young Englishman, 
 
 named T , his travelling companion. B was most 
 
188 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 iimusing, having been to almost all parts of our globe, and 
 having visited nearly every battle-field of importance. We 
 sat talking with them till near half-past nine in the evening, 
 outside the gate of Subiaco, smoking our cigars and nearly 
 worried to death by all the Italian peasants who passed 
 asking us for a " mezzo baiocco," or the enormous sum of 
 one farthing sterling. 
 
 Passing the night at a clean little inn, we left Subiaco 
 early next morning for Tivoli, not forgetting on our way to 
 call in at the half-way osteria, or wayside inn, to have a 
 dish of poached new-laid eggs, country bread, and pure 
 wine, the latter an article I would advise all to enjoy if they 
 can get it, for it is a " rara avis," and if one only touched 
 wine when to be got pure, one would be nearly as abste- 
 mious as a teetotaller. 
 
CHAPTER XXL 
 
 DIARY CONTINUED — BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN — SANTA CROCE — 
 
 CONGE. 
 
 April 23rd. — We returned last evening from Tivoli. To-day, 
 being the Feast of St. George, the Patron Saint of England, 
 and of the English Zouaves, all the latter were exempted 
 from any military duty. Our comrades and ourselves com- 
 menced the day by attending Mass at San Giorgio in Velabro 
 — several received Holy Communion there — the Bishop of 
 Birmingham saying Mass for us. In the church were 
 exposed the standard and spear-head of the Saint. In the 
 afternoon the English Zouaves were admitted to an audience 
 of the Holy Father, E, and I being amongst the fifty- 
 nine who were present. The Holy Father received us with 
 his usual amiability and kindness, gave us the Apostolical 
 Benediction for ourselves and families, and addressed us in 
 French as follows : — " St. George rode on horseback, and 
 hastened quickly from place to place ; we ride in a manner 
 also, for we are all hastening quickly towards death, for which 
 I trust you are all well prepared. You have to-day received 
 the Holy Sacraments, by means of which you have prepared 
 yourselves to encounter all the anxieties and troubles of this 
 life." 
 
 The Holy Father had received a large number of priests 
 and other people before us. I noticed that he looked sadder 
 than usual ; but alas ! he has much to sadden him, and his 
 solicitude and anxiety, as Supreme Pontiff, must of necessity 
 sometimes weigh heavily on him. 
 
 April 24th, Low Sunday. — To-day we visited, for the last 
 time, Santa Maria degli Angeli, and saw there again the 
 
190 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 works of Christian art in the quadrangle, but, as these have 
 been before described, I will only add a few words, describing 
 the church and the Baths of Diocletian, the pinacotheca 
 of which was converted by Michael Angelo into this 
 splendid church. This church has the largest roof in exist- 
 ence. Its size, its mosaic pavements, its frescoes, and its 
 columns of precious marble make this hall the wonder of 
 the Baths of Diocletian, and even of the Eternal City. In 
 beholding this the mind will naturally recur to the circum- 
 stances under which it was built. Forty thousand Christians, 
 condemned to the mines, many of whom shed their blood 
 for the faith, raised these walls, which the providence of God 
 has preserved to have His praises daily chanted in them ; and 
 these walls, raised by Diocletian, are consecrated to the 
 honour of the Queen of Angels. Whilst other baths are 
 but a heap of ruins, those of Diocletian, built by the hands 
 of martyrs, remain as a monument of the impotence of the 
 martyrs' persecutors, and as witness of the triumph of Chris- 
 tianity. The monastery of the Carthusians, to whom the 
 ohurch belongs, is formed out of the Baths. The church 
 possesses four beautiful paintings, chefs cVoeuvre of the 
 best epoch."^ In the choir is the famous fresco of St. Sebas- 
 tian, by Domenichino. There is also a splendid work of art, 
 which every one who has ever visited it cannot fail to have 
 noticed — it is the statue of St. Bruno, which is such a life- 
 like representation that Clement XIV. said of it that " it 
 would speak, were not silence enjoined by the rules of its 
 order." 
 
 That the Baths of Diocletian were of magnificent propor- 
 tions must be evident to every one who has visited the site, 
 the remains mentioned above, the circular church of St. 
 Bernard, the prison of the Termini, and the ruins beyond it, 
 sl\ of which formed part of these baths, although these dif- 
 ferent portions are situated a considerable distance from each 
 other. These Baths consisted of a quadrangle, 1,069 feet 
 
 * '' The Fall of Simon the Magician," byPompeo Battoni; *< St. Basil 
 Hefusing Communion to the Emperor Yalens," by Subleyras; and *'The 
 Blessed Mcholas Albergati," by Hercules Groziani. 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 191 
 
 long. On each of the four sides, at the angles, there were 
 circular rooms, which served for the calidariuvi, or the 
 reservoirs of warm water. One of these yet remains, and 
 forms part of the circular church of St. Bernard. 
 
 These baths exceeded in magnificence all that the imagi- 
 nation can picture. Some of the choicest specimens of 
 sculpture that have been discovered in Rome were found in 
 the ruins of the different baths, so that it would appear they 
 were ornamented with beautiful statues, arranged in suitable 
 places. The baths of Diocletian had more than three thou- 
 sand bath-rooms, so that this number of persons could bathe 
 at the same time without seeing each other. Each bath was 
 most magnificent. Mosaics, formed of basalt and Numidian 
 marble, surrounded with borders of stones of different 
 colours, produced an effect like painting. The roof was 
 formed of glass ; the places in which the water flowed were 
 surrounded by marbles from Thasus. 
 
 Streams of water flowed from silver pipes into the baths, 
 made of silver and precious stones."*^ The first room entered 
 was the apodyteriuni, where persons took off their clothes. 
 After that was the frigidaHum, where all took the cold 
 bath in common. Pilasters, with niches and statues, deco- 
 rated this place. Around it was a double row of steps, 
 called the schola, where those sat who came to look at 
 persons bathing, or were waiting for then-' turn. The tepi- 
 dariuni followed immediately after the cold bath; there 
 were in it two large basins for swimming in. After 
 this followed the sudariuni, where the air was heated. 
 An extensive furnace, placed on the outside, heated the 
 water and the entire sudarium by means of pipes placed 
 in the walls. The unctoriwni, where the bathers were 
 anointed with the choicest perfumes, completed the entire 
 number of rooms. The baths were the general rendezvous 
 of all classes of the citizens. The degenerate sons of the 
 Scipios and the Gracchi might be seen wending their way 
 there, followed by a crowd of slaves, who had each their 
 duties assigned to them. 
 
 * See **Rome, its Churclies," &c., by Rev. W. H. Neligan, LL.D., M.A. 
 
192 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 April 25. — Visited the seven Basilicas of San Pietro, San 
 Paolo, San Sebastiano, San Giovanni Laterano, Santa Croce^ 
 San Lorenzo fuor le mura, and Santa Maria Maggiore. In 
 the evening went with Duke to San Carlo al Corso, and to 
 Sant' Agostino, where was kept the Feast of Our Blessed 
 Lady of Good Counsel. We went afterwards to visit Father 
 Ffrench, and to wish him " Good bye ; " then we met our 
 other friends, dined with them, and all said adieu and " an 
 revoir" to Duke, who was about to leave next day, with his 
 company, for Montefiascone. 
 
 26th. — We visited in the morning S. Andrea al Quirinale, 
 and in the evening, for the last time, Santa Croce and its 
 most precious relics, Santa Maria Nuova, St. John Laterau, 
 La Madonna del Soccorso Perpetuo, and St. Maria Maggiore. 
 Santa Croce contains one feature which I have before only 
 slightly noticed. In one of the chapels, behind the high 
 altar, was deposited by St. Helen, the mother of Constantine 
 the Great, a considerable quantity of earth, brought from 
 Mount Calvary; this she brought from Jerusalem, together 
 with the True Cross of our Lord, which she had discovered, 
 after an immense quantity of soil and rubbish the accumu- 
 lation of nearly three centuries, had been removed under 
 her directions. This Basilica, called Santa Croce in Gerusa- 
 lemme, was specially founded by the Emperor Constantine 
 to contain this precious instrument of our redemption. The 
 other relics of Our Lord's Passion have been mentioned in a 
 former visit here. The pictures inside the church represent 
 the history of the Invention, or finding of the Cross by St. 
 Helen. With the exception of the Holy Land and Jerusalem 
 itself, no other spot in the world can claim so much interest, 
 connected with the Passion, as this Basilica. Where else can 
 we so easily picture to ourselves Mount Calvary, Our Blessed 
 Lord crowned with thorns, and nailed to the Cross between 
 two thieves, as here on Mount Calvary, represented by its 
 very earth, surrounded by part of the True Cross, its title, 
 " Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jeius," one of the very 
 nails which fixed Him to the Cross, and by part of the^ 
 crown of thorns which pierced His sacred Head ? 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zovxives. 193 
 
 The cross of the good thief will remind us of the other 
 circumstances of the Crucifixion, and the relic of St. Thomas 
 of those following the Resurrection. 
 
 27th. — We visited for the last time to-day many places 
 endeared to us during our life in Rome, of these I need only 
 mention here the altar of St. Aloysius in Sant' Ignazio, and 
 the church of the Ges^. T caUed on Captain Thomale and 
 Captain Talmann, and my Sous-Lieutenant, M. Villele, on 
 the Right Rev. Dr. Brown, Bishop of Shrewsbury, for the 
 purpose of bidding them adieu ; they were all very kind. 
 At the English college we said " Good-bye " to our par- 
 ticular friends, as weU as to all our other kind acquaintances 
 in the coUege. 
 
 We saw Mgr. Stonor at the Library, where we thanked 
 him for the many services he had kindly rendered us. The 
 Rev. Mr. Roe very kindly came there, provided with several 
 
 photographs for both R and myself; these were his 
 
 farewell gifts to us, and we were not insensible to these 
 tokens of friendship, nor to those which Father Robin- 
 son gave us, nor to the cordiality of his farewell. This 
 evening we dined with our Zouave friends, and afterwards 
 assembled together to the number of eight, amongst whom 
 were M. Desnoyers, a Canadian, and Mr. Bolingbroke, who 
 were in the first depot with me at Monte Rotondo. It was 
 a great pleasure to us thus to meet together for the last time 
 before we quitted Rome, and we much enjoyed this last 
 social evening in the Eternal City, spent in the company of 
 those comrades whose society we had so much relished. 
 We did not forget to pay a farewell visit to our other friends 
 in the city. This day we received our Cong4s for " tempo 
 Jinito" or certificates of service completed in the Corps of 
 the Pontifical Zouaves. To-morrow we start to return to 
 our homes and friends in England. 
 
 Before, however, we leave the subject of the Eternal City, 
 it will perhaps interest some of our readers to hear some- 
 thing of the unrivalled monuments of antiquity it contains. 
 I will therefore devote the three succeeding chapters princi- 
 pally to this subject. 
 
 13 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE COLISEUM — CHUECHES O:^^ THE CCELIAN, ETC. — THE 
 CAPITOL — ARA COELI — ROMAN FORUM — ARCH OF TITUS — 
 ST. SEBASTIAN. 
 
 " A ruin, yet what ruin ! from its mass 
 "Walls, palaces, half-cities, have been reared." 
 ***** 
 " * While stands the Coliseum, Eome shall stand ; 
 When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall ; 
 And when Eome falls — the World.* From our own land 
 Thus spake the pilgrims o'er this mighty wall 
 In Saxon times, which we are wont to call 
 Ancient ; and these three mortal things are still 
 On their foundations, and unalter'd all ; 
 Eome and her Euin past redemption's skill. 
 The World, the same wide den — of thieves, or what ye will." 
 
 Byron. 
 
 This, the finest ruin of ancient Rome, if not of the whole 
 world,, one can hardly contemplate without experiencing 
 deep feelings of wonder and admiration. The conception, 
 design, and execution of it was altogether extraordinary. 
 It is said to have occupied only five years in its erection, 
 which, considering that it was originally larger than any 
 building now existing, was marvellously rapid. Twelve 
 thousand Jews, as well as an immense number of Christians, 
 were employed in its construction, and the rapidity with 
 which the work was completed is said to have astonished 
 even the builders themselves.^ 
 
 * Its form is that of an ellipse, and its longer axis measures 620 feet, 
 the shorter one 513, so that it covered nearly six acres. The length of 
 the arena is 287 feet, its hreadth 180 feet. The arena was in the centre, 
 and from it, to the fourth storey, the seats were raised on an inclined 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zo^iaves. 195 
 
 The exterior wall appears to be about 200 feet high * 
 The Cob'seum was erected for the amusement of the people 
 by the Imperial games ; among these were a great number 
 of gladiatorial contests. It was here also that an immense 
 number of martyrs suffered death for the Christian Faith, by 
 being torn to pieces in the arena by wild beasts. This fact 
 will create an additional attraction to every Christian ; he 
 will here admire the Providence which so disposed events, 
 that in the Coliseum — erected for the celebration of profane 
 Pagan games — was exhibited to people, collected together 
 from every country, the sublime spectacle of thousands of 
 heroic disciples of Christ sacrificing their lives in the most 
 ignominious manner, rather than renounce their faith. This 
 could not but move the hearts of many among the immense 
 multitudes there assembled, and lead them to the considera- 
 tion of the religion professed by these numbers of joyful 
 martyrs. When we consider the number of persecutions 
 the Church underwent between the reign of the Emperor 
 Titus, A.D. 79, and that of the Emperor Constantino the 
 Great, a.d. 306, we may form some idea of the number of 
 martyrs who here sealed their faith with their blood ; 
 amongst them may be mentioned St. Ignatius, Bishop of 
 Antioch, St. Eleutherius, St. Alexander, St: Martina, and 
 St. Prisca.-f" 
 
 plane. The exterior is composed of travertine ; it was four stories high, 
 and was adorned with columns, the lower being of the Doric order, in 
 the second tier the columns being of the Ionic, in the third of the Corin- 
 thian, and in the fourth of the composite order ; there are also arcades, 
 these were the entrances to the rows of seats, which ascended from the 
 arena one above the other. There were arrangements by which the 
 Coliseum could be covered by the ** velaria,^^ or sail cloths, to protect the 
 spectators from the sun and rain. The third row of seats was surrounded 
 by eighty marble columns. The Coliseum was capable of containing 
 107,000 spectators. These figures and some other particulars are taken 
 from '* Rome, its Chur chcs, &c." By Rev. W. H. Nehgan, LL.D., M.A. 
 
 * The work just quoted states it to be 157 feet. 
 
 t It should have been mentioned before, that the building of the Coli- 
 seum was commenced by the Emperor Yespasian, and finished by his son 
 Titus, who dedicated it to his father ; hence it is called the Flavian 
 Amphitheatre, from Flavius Yespasian. 
 
 13—2 
 
196 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Part of the exterior wall of the structure was carried 
 away in the middle ages, and served in the building of 
 several palaces in Rome ; however, the vast mass remains, 
 and is still an imposing ruin, the effect 'of which from the 
 interior is best seen by moonlight. 
 
 ** It will not bear the brightness of the day ; 
 But when the rising moon begins to climb 
 Its topmost arch, and gently pauses there ; 
 "When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, 
 And the low night-breeze waves along the air. 
 The garland forest, which the grey walls wear. 
 Like laurels on the bald first Csesar's head ; 
 When the light shines serene, but doth not glare, 
 Then in this magic circle raise the dead : 
 Heroes have trod this spot — 'tis on their dust ye tread." 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Near the Coliseum is the ruin of the Meta Sudans, i.e. 
 dripping pillar ; this was a splendid fountain used by those 
 who frequented the amphitheatre. 
 
 Several Popes have done much to preserve the ruins of 
 the Coliseum from further decay, by the addition of im- 
 mense buttresses, &;c. The one erected by the present pope 
 is a fine piece of brickwork. 
 
 The triumphal arch of Constantine is near the Coliseum, 
 and exhibits some of the finest sculptured bas-reliefs of the 
 Imperial period ; hence the opinion that some of them are 
 of older date than the time of Constantine, and originally 
 adorned a more ancient triumphal arch of Trajan. 
 
 On the Coelian hill, not far from the arch of Constantine, 
 is the church of SS. John and Paul, built on the spot 
 where these holy martyrs suffered in the precincts of their 
 own house, as the inscription in the church testifies. Their 
 bodies repose in the porphyry urn under the high altar. This 
 church now belongs to the Passionists, and underneath the 
 altar of the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament one sees, perfect 
 and entire, the body of their founder, St. Paul of the Cross, 
 who died in the last century. The campanile adjoining is 
 built on a base of great antiquity, composed of huge blocks 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 197 
 
 of travertine. This is the masonry of the most ancient sub- 
 structions now to be found in Rome, and belonged to the 
 time of the kings. It is supposed to be the remains of the 
 Curia Hostilia or Senate House, built by Tullus Hos- 
 tiKus, third king of Rome. Here are also remains of the 
 vivamum, or dens for the wild beasts used in the games of 
 the Coliseum. 
 
 The Church of St. Gregory the Great is also on the 
 Ccelian, built on the site of the house of the Saint. It is a 
 conspicuous object from the south side of Rome. The 
 approach to and fa9ade of the church are very fine. 
 
 In the convent adjoining lived St. Augustine and St. 
 Lawrence, archbishops of Canterbury, and St. Mellitus, 
 bishop of London. This spot may be justly called the cradle 
 of England's civilisation, for here were nurtured the men — 
 St. Augustine, St. Laurence, St. Mellitus, and, before them, 
 St. Gregory himself — who were most instrumental in her 
 convei"sion from Paganism to Christianity, and to Christianity 
 alone does England owe her present civilisation. 
 
 On the left of the ascent to the church are three chapels, 
 built by St. Gregory, and dedicated under the invocation of 
 St. Silvia, mother of St. Gregory, of St. Andrew, and of St. 
 Barbara. In the chapel of St. Barbara is the table on which 
 St. Gregory fed twelve poor men every day, and where our 
 Lord, as the thirteenth, sat amongst them. There is a fresco 
 painting in the chapel representing this event. 
 
 On the Ccelian, which is one of seven hills of ancient 
 Rome, are many other objects of interest, such as the church 
 of the Quattro Coronati, Santa Maria della Navicella, San 
 Stefano Rotondo, already described last year, the Arch of 
 Dolabella,* and the remains of the house of Scaurus, and of 
 the Golden House of Nero. 
 
 * ** The Arch of Dolabella and Silanns is supposed to have formed one 
 of the entrances to the Campus Martialis, where the puhiic games in 
 honour of Mars were celebrated when the Campus Martins was inundated 
 by the Tiber. It is a single arch of travertine, with an inscription, from 
 •which we gather that it was erected a.d. 10. 
 
 " A short way beyond this, towards St. Stefano Rotondo, is a fine 
 
198 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Sette Sale* — These words, which mean " seven halls," are 
 applied to some ruins on the Esquiline, very near to the 
 Coliseum, from which side they are entered. 
 
 First we enter the substructions, or lower portions. The 
 different chambers are of great height, and appear, from the 
 remnants of mural painting, to have been richly decorated. 
 On ascending above these we find ourselves on the present 
 level of the top of that part of the Esquiline, and it was on 
 this floor probably that the " seven halls " and the best part 
 of the palace was placed. Judging from the portion of the 
 ruins now standing — part of which is now used as a powder 
 magazine, the other portions being in the vineyards adjoining 
 — they must have been of magnificent dimensions; but I 
 have not been able to find any account of the Emperor to 
 whom they are to be assigned. The ruins may have formed 
 part of the immense 'golden house of Nero, or of the baths 
 of Titus, part of which were converted into the subterranean 
 church of San Martino ai Monti. 
 
 The Cloaca onaxima or immense sewer, constructed in 
 the reign of Tarquinius Priscus is a remarkable memorial of 
 early Roman architecture. It is formed of immense blocks 
 of stone, six feet long and three feet wide, joined together 
 without mortar or cement. The width of the sewer is twelve 
 feet, its depth the same. Formerly it was easy to row 
 through it in a boat, but now this is more difficult on 
 account of the rise of the bed of the Tiber. This is indeed 
 one of the wonderful works of the ancients, and now, after 
 2,400 years, is as perfect as ever. 
 
 The Capitol was so called because this hill was considered 
 the chief place, and here was situated the citadel and the 
 chief temple of ancient Eome, viz., that of Jupiter Capi- 
 tolinus. 
 
 mediaeval arch, surmounted by a canopy with a mosaic, a beautiful 
 specimen of the architecture of the thirteenth century, having been 
 erected by two of the Cosimatis." — Murray's Handbook. 
 
 * Murray says the Sette Sale is the ruined building near the Via San 
 Clemente, and that it was the reservoir of the Thermae of Titus. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 199 
 
 On ascending from the Piazza d'Ara Coeli, the beautiful 
 flight of cemented steps, we have a full view of the build- 
 ings of the Capitol of the present day. On the summit, to 
 the left, is the fine old Church of Ara Coeli, leading up to 
 which is a very steep ascent. Immediately below this is the 
 small but pretty garden of the Capitol. At the bottom the 
 balustrade is surmounted on either side by a lion of black 
 granite, and at the top by the statues of Castor and Pollux, 
 of colossal size, in white marble. On arriving at the top 
 we find ourselves in a small piazza, or square, in the centre 
 of which is a superb equestrian statue in bronze of the 
 Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Opposite to us is the palace of 
 the Senator, on the site of the tabularium or place of 
 records, surmounted by an elegant tower, from which a good 
 view of the site of the ancient as well as of the modem city 
 can be obtained. On the left are the halls of sculpture, and 
 above, in the background, the monastery and barracks of 
 Ara Coeli. On the right is the Promoteca — containing a 
 collection of modern statues — and the picture gaUery. In the 
 halls of sculpture are some of the most beautiful specimens of 
 that art which have come down from antiquity. Amongst 
 these the " Dying Gladiator " is the most famous, and it 
 suggested the following beautiful lines in " Childe Harold." 
 
 ** I see before me the gladiator lie : 
 He leans upon his hand — his manly brow 
 Consents to death, but conquers agony 
 And his drooped head sinks gradually low — 
 And through his side the last drops' ebbing slow 
 From the red gash fall heavy, one by one, 
 Like the first of a thunder-shower. And now 
 The arena swims around liim — he is gone, 
 Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who won.'' 
 
 In the Promoteca is the hall opened by Pius VII. in 
 1820, containing some very beautiful specimens of modem 
 sculpture by Canova, and other artists. In the atrium, or 
 court, are the remains of some colossal ancient statues. The 
 picture gallery contains some very fine paintings. In the 
 
200 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 superb suite of rooms adjoining are very many interesting 
 objects, including the bronze " Wolf of the Capitol." 
 
 The Capitol was the scene, in the time of the Roman 
 republic, B.C. 390, of an act of patriotism which saved the 
 Roman power from utter destruction. 
 
 The Gauls, under Brennus, had defeated the Romans in a 
 pitched battle near the river Allia, had laid waste the city, 
 and put to death the eighty senators whom they found in 
 it, while the remnant of the Roman army retired to the 
 citadel, situated on the top of the steep Capitoline Mount, 
 In the " Universal History " we find the following account 
 of the event, the Cominius here mentioned being sent from 
 Furius Camillus to the military tribune in the citadel. 
 
 " The way Cominus made this dangerous expedition was- 
 by getting down the Tiber by night. He then landed at 
 the foot of the Tarpeian rock, clambering up a most difficult 
 path till he gained the wall that surrounded the Capitol, 
 But though he escaped, the Gauls perceived that some one 
 had, passed that way, and Brennus resolved to attempt a 
 surprise by the path he now discovered. The Romans were 
 so secure as to that quarter as to deem a guard unnecessary. 
 From this neojlect the two foremost Gauls who were sent on 
 this duty reached the foot of the wall before the least alarm 
 had been given. But a flock of geese, sacred to Juno, who 
 were kept in that place, then began to cackle, and Manlius^ 
 a gallant Roman, happening to be awake,, ran to see the 
 occasion of it. By this time the two first Gauls had gained 
 the top of the rampart. Manlius, however, with the first 
 stroke of his sword, disabled one, and immediately tumbled 
 the other down the precipice. The alarm then became 
 general, and the forces of Brennus having no longer any 
 chance of success, abandoned this enterprise." 
 
 Thus was Rome saved for the time by means of the 
 geese, and the unflinching courage of one of her bravest 
 sons. The danger had not yet altogether passed away, for 
 the Gauls were still in the possession of the city, and it 
 required all the skill and energy of that distinguished 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 201 
 
 Roman, Furius Camillus, to save the citadel from a disgrace-' 
 ful capitulation, and his country from dishonour. 
 
 " He came to relieve the Capitol at a very critical mo- 
 ment, and perceiving the present disgraceful state of things,, 
 cried out that by steel alone, and not by gold, was Rome to 
 be recovered from the hands of its enemies. He then 
 charged with great vigour the astonished Gauls, obliged 
 them to abandon their prey, and shortly after, in a decisive 
 battle, fought at a short distance from Rome, amply revenged 
 the disaster that his countrymen had suffered on the banks 
 of the Allia."* 
 
 For this and many other acts of distinguished patriotism 
 during a long life, Camillus earned the title of father of his 
 country, and second founder of Rome, and his fame and 
 virtues have caused him to be considered one of the greatest 
 men the Roman Republic produced. 
 
 The Tarpeian Rock forms the south-western side of the 
 Capitol. It was here, in ancient time, that traitors were 
 precipitated into tlie valley below, causing them instant 
 death ; at present the accumulations of ages have filled up 
 the precipice, and it would be difficult to determine the exact 
 site of tlie Rock. 
 
 The church of Ara Coeli, i.e., Altar of Heaven, is, accord- 
 ing to tradition, " built on the spot where the Blessed 
 Mother of God, holding her Son in her arms, showed herself 
 to the Emperor Augustus in the centre of a circle of gold. ""I" 
 " According to some historians the Emperor consulted tlio 
 Sybil of Tivoli, to know if he should allow himself to be 
 honoured as a god ; and that, after fasting three days, 
 Augustus saw the heavens opening, and a virgin of great 
 beauty, sitting on an altar, and holding in her hands an 
 infant, and saying, ' This is the altar of the Son of God.' In 
 consequence of this Augustus forbad himself to be called 
 god, and caused an altar to be erected on the Capitol to the 
 'first-born of God."'t 
 
 * ** Fredet's Ancient History." 
 
 t Vide inscription on the baldachino insidethe church. 
 
 t " Rome and its Churches." 
 
202 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The church contains twenty-two pillars of Egyptian 
 granite of different orders, supposed to be taken from the 
 ancient temple of Jupiter, some fine paintings, and inte- 
 resting inscriptions ; in one of the chapels is the famous 
 Bambino, which is held in high veneration in Rome. 
 
 The Roman Forum was situated immediately to the south- 
 east of the Capitol, and at a considerable depth below it ; 
 and the view of its ruins cannot but raise the deepest feelings 
 in the breast of the traveller who sees them for the first 
 time, and beholds the wreck of the beautiful temples before 
 him. This part of the Forum consisted of a series of 
 temples, on different levels, of the Arch of Septimius 
 Severus, and of the Via Sacra, or Clivus Gapitolinus, 
 descending by a circuit, and passing through this arch ; 
 farther on is the column of Phocas, and three pillars of the 
 Corinthian order, supposed to have formed part of the Curia 
 Julia. Most of these ruins are of beautiful marble, and of 
 exquisite workmanship. 
 
 Between the column of Phocas and the circular base, 
 which bears a small pedestal — this may have been the mil- 
 liarium aureuwi, or golden pillar from which all distances 
 were measured — was the rostrum, or tribune, from which the 
 orators addressed the people in the Forum. 
 
 As we look on this Forum, ho w many recollections of a great 
 people present themselves to the mind ; Cicero, and Caesar, 
 and other great orators come up before us, addressing the 
 people with words of burning eloquence, and the multitude 
 listening in breathless suspense ; we picture to ourselves the 
 beautiful temples, once more in pristine splendour ; then, re- 
 calling the mind to the realities of the present, the image 
 vanishes, and ruin and desolation appear again. This great 
 but Pagan people has passed away, and its descendants have 
 merged into the followers of a greater Conqueror than Caesar. 
 Such are our thoughts on beholding the Forum, and the 
 site of that rostrum of its orators. First we are struck 
 with admiration ; then a feeling of sadness comes over us ; 
 and at last we are content to depart consoled from the scene. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 203 
 
 to visit some other wonder of the ancient, or to wend our 
 way to some venerated shrine of the modern Bome. 
 
 On descending the Capitol, towards the present church 
 of San Giuseppe de Falegnami, we behold, on looking back, 
 the massive substructions of the ancient Tahularium, below 
 the present Palace of the Senator. Continuing, we enter this 
 church, built above the Mamertine Prison, where St. Peter 
 and St. Paul were imprisoned up till the time of their execu- 
 tion. We then descend into the prison, and drink water from 
 the fountain which St. Peter caused to come forth from the 
 floor, that he might baptize their gaolers. Processus and 
 Martinianus, with the twenty-seven soldiers, who were con- 
 verted by him in prison, and all of whom suffered in their 
 turn martyrdom for the Christian Faith. The Mamertine 
 Prison is hewn out of the solid rock, its walls being built of 
 volcanic tufa in the Etruscan style, and it was excavated 
 and constructed by Ancus Martius and Servius Tullius, 
 Kings of Rome. It consists of two floors, one below the 
 other, and formerly the only entrance to both was through 
 a small circular aperture in the roof of the upper prison — 
 the entrance again from this to the lower one being eff'ected 
 in like manner through another small opening in the floor of 
 the upper prison. Through these holes the prisoners were 
 let down into the bowels of the earth, and through them only 
 could any light or air reach the suffering inmates in their 
 gloomy abodes. It was here, in this loathsome den, far re- 
 moved from the influence of the beautiful sun, which our 
 Beneficent Creator has made to gladden the hearts of His 
 creatures, that the glorious Apostles of Rome, St. Peter and 
 St. Paul, exhibited an example of constancy and patience in 
 sufl*ering, rewarded by the conversion to the true faith of 
 their fellow-prisoners. 
 
 Very near is the church of Santa Martina. This holy 
 virgin was the daughter of a consul, and she received the 
 crown of martyrdom in the Flavian Amphitheatre ; her body 
 reposes in the subterranean church. The church belongs to 
 the Academy of Painters. 
 
 The present Campo Vaccino covers the site of part of the 
 
204 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Forum, and here are the churches of St. Adrian, San Lorenzo 
 in Miranda, and SS. Cosmas and Damian. The second, named 
 in Miranda from the wonderful ruins by which it is sur- 
 rounded, is formed out of the temple erected by the Roman 
 Senate to Antoninus and Faustina, A.D. 168. The portico 
 and side walls are still standing. The portico is formed of 
 ten large columns, each fifteen feet in circumference, and 
 forty-six feet in height. The entablature consists of immense 
 blocks of Parian marble, finely worked, and bears the fol- 
 lowing inscription — " Divo Antonino et Divee Faustinse, Ex. 
 S. C.""^ SS. Cosmo e Damiano occupies the site of the temple 
 of Remus, part of which now forms its vestibule, or portico ; 
 and the ancient bronze door of the temple now closes the 
 entrance of the church. Under the high altar are the bodies 
 of SS. Cosmas and Damian ; in the apse is an ancient mosaic. 
 This church was formed by Pope Felix III., in 527, from the 
 ruins of the temple before mentioned. 
 
 The Forum Momanum, adorned with beautiful temples, 
 exhibiting elaborate skill in their execution, as well as with 
 the Basilica and Curia Julia, pillars, statues, and the School 
 of Zanthus, was the great centre of the ancient Romans, both 
 in Republican and Imperial times. Here the people congre- 
 gated, the Senate deliberated, the orators addressed the 
 multitude ; here the Emperors commanded, and victorious 
 consuls and generals have been often borne aloft in triumph, 
 while unhappy conquered foes have been forced to follow in 
 sadness, lamenting their hard fate. 
 
 The three large ruined arches, near the church of S. Maria 
 Nuova, at the same side of the Campo Vaccino as the last- 
 mentioned churches, are generally supposed to have formed 
 part of the ancient temple of Peace. There is no doubt but 
 that its site was here, but an opinion exists that the present 
 ruins of colossal size belonged to the Basilica of Constantine ; 
 above the entablature are the remains of another series of 
 arcades, apparently corresponding to the lower ones, and 
 the whole structure appears to have been of magnificent pro- 
 portions. Farther on, towards the Coliseum, are the ruins 
 
 * " To the divine Antoninus and Faustina, by decree of the Senate." 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 205 
 
 -of the temples of Venus and Rome, which cannot fail to have 
 been observed by every visitor to the Eternal City, as they 
 appear to have formed a double temple, joined in the centre, 
 and entered from opposite directions. The church before 
 named, also called Santa Francesca Romana, was built on 
 part of the site of these temples. The campanile attached 
 to it belongs probably to the more ancient church built here 
 by Pope Paul I. in the middle of the eighth century. 
 
 The Arch of Titus is situated between the Campo Vaccino 
 and the Coliseum, and was erected over the Via Sacra to 
 his honour by the Senate and Roman people ; it is one of 
 the best preserved monuments of ancient Rome. It is of 
 white marble; it consists of only one arcade. It was 
 adorned by four fluted pillars of the composite order. In 
 the interior of the arch are two basso-relievos, which, though 
 much injured by time, are the finest known. On the left 
 side Titus is seated in a triumphal car, drawn by six horses 
 abreast. The rein is guided by a female figure representing 
 Rome. The corresponding one on the right side is a con- 
 tinuation of the triumph ; it represents several soldiers, the 
 Jewish captives, the golden table, the silver trumpet, and 
 the seven-branched candlestick, with other spoils, carried on 
 the shoulders of soldiers wearing crowns. It is remarkable 
 that all the figures except the Emperor have the Grecian 
 nose and face. He alone has the short neck and features of 
 the ancient Romans. There are four very fine figures on 
 the archi vaults."^ 
 
 You meet a Jew in the Campo Vaccino ; he never passes 
 under this arch ; he will pass along 'th^ side of it. Vain 
 protestation ! for the memorial of his servitude and of his 
 fall stands near him.-f- 
 
 • The side towards the capitol hears the following inscription: ** S. P. 
 Q,. R. Imp. Tito Caes. Divi Yespasiani filio Yespasiano Aug. Pont. Max. 
 Tr. Pot. X, Imp. XYIL, Cos. YIII., P.P., principi suo qui, preceptis 
 patria) consiliisque et auspiciis gent^m Judicorum domuit, et urhem 
 Hierosolimam omnibus ante se ducibus, regibus, gentibus aut frustra 
 petitam aut intentam delevit." 
 
 t " Rome, its Churches," &c. 
 
206 Two Tears in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 Beyond this arch, on both sides of the road leading to the- 
 Coliseum, are the remains of departed grandeur ; on the left 
 we see broken marble pillars of enormous size ; on the right, 
 immense masses of crumbling brickwork, dust, and soil, 
 accumulated from the fallen buildings of the ruined palace 
 of the Csesars. Here we stand to look at the memorials of 
 the former greatness of the Imperial Palatine, and one can- 
 not contemplate them without experiencing some feelings 
 of sadness. 
 
 We must not, however, forget to visit the spot hal- 
 lowed by the martj^rdom of a great Christian hero, who 
 lived at the time when the ruins we have now spoken of 
 existed in all their grandeur, viz., the small church of St. 
 Sebastian, on the Palatine hill, where this Christian soldier 
 fell, pierced with arrows, for refusing to conform to the 
 idolatry of the Empire. 
 
 It will be known to all readers of the "Lives of the 
 Saints," that this Saint was a captain of the Praetorian 
 Guard, under the Emperors Carinus, Diocletian, and 
 Maximian, and that he spent his life in Rome in further- 
 ing the progress of the Christian religion, and used his 
 influence in protecting the Christians. In the year A.D. 
 288, he was denounced as a disciple of Christ before the 
 Emperor Diocletian, who delivered him over to Mauritanian 
 archers to be shot to death. " His body was covered with 
 arrows, and he was left for dead. Irene, the widow of St. 
 Castulus, going to bury him, found him still alive, and took 
 him to her lodgings, where, by care, he recovered from his 
 wounds, but refused to fly, and even placed himself one day 
 by a staircase, where the Emperor was to pass, whom he 
 ■first accosted, reproaching him for his unjust cruelties 
 against the Christians. This freedom of speech, and from a 
 person, too, whom he supposed to have been dead, greatly 
 astonished the Emperor ; but recovering from his surprise, 
 he gave orders for his being seized and beat to death with 
 cudgels, and his body thrown into the common sewer. A 
 pious lady called Lucina, admonished by the Martyr in a 
 
Two Years i/)i the Pontifical Zouaves, 207 
 
 vision, got it privately removed, and buried it in the cata- 
 combs at the entrance to the cemetery of Calixtus.""^ The 
 church on the Via Appia, which has been mentioned before, 
 was built over the tomb of St. Sebastian by Pope Damasus 
 in the fourth century. 
 
 • *' Butler's Lives of the Samts," Yol. I. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE PANTHEON — COLUMNS — OBELISKS — AQUEDUCTS. 
 
 "Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime — 
 Shrine of all saints, and temple of all gods, 
 From Jove to J esus— spared and blest by time ; 
 Looking tranquillity, while falls or nods 
 Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods 
 His way through thorns to ashes — glorious dome ! 
 Shalt thou not last ? Time's scythe and tyrants' rods 
 Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home 
 Of art and piety — Pantheon ! — pride of Rome !" 
 
 " Relic of nobler days and noblest arts ! 
 Despoiled, yet perfect, with thy circle spreads 
 A holiness appealing to all hearts — " 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 The Pantheon, as its name implies, was originally built as 
 a temple for all the gods of Pagan Rome ; its form is circu- 
 lar, hence it is also known by the name of the Rotunda. It 
 is also called " S. Maria ad Martyres," from its conversion 
 into a Christian church, and its dedication by Pope Gregory 
 IV. under the invocation of the Blessed Virgin, and all the 
 martyrs and saints, in the beginning of the ninth century, 
 as well as from the relics of a great number of martyrs pre- 
 served in it. The portico is of magnificent proportions, the 
 shafts of the sixteen pillars being each one block of oriental 
 granite, nearly five feet in diameter at the base, and forty 
 feet high. These pillars are of the Corinthian order, and 
 support an entablature of the finest proportions. On the 
 frieze of this entablature is the following inscription : " M. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 209 
 
 Agrippa L. F. Cos. Tertium Fecit.""^ This M. Agrippa was 
 son-in-law to Octavius, and he built the Pantheon twenty- 
 seven years before the Christian era. 
 
 The fa9ade of the portico has withstood the ravages of 
 time, and is now as perfect as ever, and the view of it from 
 the Piazza is very fine ; it was probably this exterior fa9ade 
 that the poet had in mind when he wrote the commence- 
 ment of the lines quoted above, which are so well calculated 
 to convey a just idea of this, the most perfect work that has 
 come down to us from ancient times. The interior is one 
 hundred and forty-three feet in diameter, the walls are of 
 immense thickness, the height to the top of the dome is equal 
 to the diameter ; the building is only lighted from a circular 
 opening in the top, twenty-eight feet in diameter. I have 
 myself measured the dimensions of the diameters of the 
 Pantheon and of the cupola of St. Peter's, and found the 
 latter to be slightly less, hence the promise of Michael 
 Angelo was all but accomplished, when he said he would 
 build in the air what Agrippa had placed on the ground. 
 The dome occupies one half the height of the building, 
 and in it were placed the niches for the statues of the gods, 
 as well as in tlie lower part; these latter were easily 
 converted Into receptacles for the Christian altars. The 
 great painter, Raffaele, is buried here. The baths of Agrippa 
 were formerly near the Pantheon. 
 
 The Commandant, or Military Governor of Rome, resides 
 in the Palace of the Piazza Colonna, also called Piazza di 
 Roma; in the same palace are the rooms of the casino, or 
 Military Club of the officers of the Pontifical Army. 
 
 The Column of Antoninus Pius, one hundred and sixty 
 feet high, which is in the centre of the piazza, is now sur- 
 mounted by a statue of the Apostle St. Paul ; the column is 
 ornamented with basso-relievos representing the victories of 
 Marcus Aurelius, and the miracle of the thundering legion. 
 '' About A.D. 176, this Emperor was in the centre of Germany 
 with his army, where, being deceived by the Quades, he had 
 been led into a deep defile, surrounded by high mountains, 
 
 * " Erected by Marcus Agrippa when consul for the third time." 
 
 14 
 
210 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 on which the enemy suddenly appeared. There was no 
 means of escape. In addition to this the army had been 
 suffering for want of water for more than five days. The , 
 leader of the Prsetorian Guards came to tv. .1 the Emperor 
 that the Melitine legion, nearly all composed of Christians, 
 formed part of the army, and that they could obtain any- 
 thing they desired through their prayers. The Emperor 
 expressed his wish that they should offer up their prayers. 
 Scarcely had these old soldiers fallen on their knees, and 
 entreated the true God to send them rain, than the heavens 
 soon darkened with clouds, and loud claps of thunder were 
 heard, accompanied with lightning and a fearful hail, which 
 fell on the enemy, while it only rained on the army. The 
 account of Dio, a heathen writer, is interesting: — 'There 
 could be seen, at the same time, both fire and water 
 descending from heaven. The army were refreshed by the 
 one, and the enemy were burnt with the other, for the fire 
 did not touch the Romans, and the water burned the bar- 
 barians like burning oil. In their despair they threw them- 
 selves amongst the Romans, where the water refreshed them. 
 The Emperor took pity on them.' .... In memory of this 
 fact the legion was called the thundering legion, and the 
 Emperor stopped the persecutions against the Christians by 
 an edict he then published." * 
 
 The Forum of Trajan, also called the Forum UlpiuTn, was: 
 formerly of gTeat extent and magnificence, as one may judge 
 from the ruins of it now remainingf. 
 
 The Column of Trajan, now crowned with a statue of St, 
 Peter, of gilt bronze, is about one hundred and forty feet 
 high, including the statue ; it is ornamented with basso- 
 relievos representing the expeditions of Trajan. These — the 
 work of an artist named Apollodorus — have been considered 
 as masterpieces of art, and have served as models for many 
 eminent artists. These basso-relievos commence from the 
 bottom of the shaft, and are continued round it, winding and 
 ascending as a spiral cordon until the top is reached. The 
 shaft contains 2,500 figures, many two feet high. "The 
 shaft, a hundred Roman feet in height, is composed of nine- 
 * ''Rome, its Churches," etc. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 211 
 
 teen solid blocks, some five feet in height, over twelve feet 
 in diameter, and that after reduction by cutting away to the 
 surface of the sculpture. The block out of which the upper 
 cornice of the plinth is cut is twenty-two feet square. 
 Each of these enormous masses contains a certain proportion 
 of the stairs, and of the column in which it centres. These 
 are excavated out of the blocks. The blocks, or drums, are 
 connected by T-shaped iron dowels. The foundations must 
 be admirably constructed, as the enormous weight of mate- 
 rial, so close in grain, presses on a limited area of ground. 
 It remains, however, perfectly perpendicular to this day." * 
 
 The height of the column, as we gather from the inscrip- 
 tion on it, was designed to represent the height of the hill 
 which was here removed by the Roman engiueers, in order 
 to construct the Forum, or Ulpian Basilica, the court of 
 which was adorned with this column. 
 
 The obelisks of Egyptian granite which adorn several 
 "piazze" in the city are wonderful as exhibiting the enduring 
 nature of this stone, the skill of the ancient Egyptians in 
 carving hieroglyphics, and the extent of the dominions of 
 ancient Rome, whose generals brought these trophies from 
 that far distant land after its conquest. The one in the 
 Piazza of St. John Lateran is said, by those learned in hiero- 
 glyphics, to be as old a§ the time of the Jewish captivity, 
 which ended B.C. 1491 ; thus the obelisk would be 3,360 
 years old. 
 
 The obelisk in the Piazza San Pietro is a fine column of a 
 single block, but there is no hieroglyphic to determine its 
 exact date. It is placed on four small bronze lions, and 
 above it is a portion of the True Cross; in the panels of the 
 base are the inscriptions — " Ecce crux Domini, fugite partes 
 adversse ; " " Vicit leo de tribu Juda ; " " Christus vincit, 
 Christus regnat, Christus imperat." f Thus the eternal vic- 
 tory of Christianity over Pagan superstition is proclaimed. 
 
 * '♦ Month," Vol. 6. 
 
 t ** Behold the cross of the Lord, let all enemies fly;" " The lion of 
 the tribe of Juda has conquered;" "Christ conquers, Christ reigns, 
 Christ rules." 
 
 14—2 
 
212 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 The Cross its victory proclaiins, 
 
 O'er proudest laurels won of yore ; 
 Now Christ alone supremely reigns 
 
 Where superstition swayed before. 
 
 This column was placed in its present position by the 
 great Pope Sixtus V., and, as its weight was enormous, it 
 was the occasion for the exercise of a considerable feat of 
 engineering skill. High Mass was celebrated in St. Peter's, 
 the Pope bestowed his benediction on the workmen, and the 
 shaft was being raised from a horizontal position by means 
 of ropes, in the presence of a great multitude — who had 
 been commanded to observe perfect silence — when it 
 was seen that the strain on the ropes was too great, and 
 there was danger of an accident. At this juncture a 
 Genoese sailor called for water to sprinkle the ropes, which, 
 being applied, contracted them to their original tension, and, 
 after some other efforts, the shaft was fixed in its place 
 without further difficulty. The Pope demanded what reward 
 the sailor desired for his courage and coolness; to which 
 the latter said, that he would only ask for the privilege 
 of supplying the Holy Father and St. Peter's with palms 
 for the ceremony of Palm Sunday, and it is said that the 
 privilege is still enjoyed by his descendants at the present 
 day. The fountains on either side of the obelisk are per- 
 haps the most beautiful in the whole world, the jets being 
 of great height and exquisite delicacy, and producing a 
 crystal shower in which are reflected the colours of the 
 rainbow. 
 
 Marmorata. — The ancient port of the Tiber — recently dis- 
 covered, and now known by the above name from the 
 marbles there brought to light again — is an interesting 
 object. It is situated below the present city, and very 
 valuable marbles have been re-discovered, after lying buried 
 in the mud on the banks of the river for many centuries. 
 How such a store could ever have been buried remains an 
 unexplained mystery ; but I suppose the fact must be put 
 down to the account of the Goths, Huns, or Vandals, or of the 
 other barbarians who devastated the city in former times. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 213 
 
 The Sette Vigili, or barracks of the seventh cohort, near 
 the Lungaretta of the Trastevere, has also been recently 
 discovered ; it is situated below the present level, as are so 
 many of the ancient remains. On descending we enter a 
 small atrium, in the centre of which was a fountain. We 
 walk through the other chambers, which are small but 
 tastefully decorated, and we then examine the scratchings 
 in the mortar, on the wall of the atrium, and we 
 find they were done by certain members of the seventh 
 cohort of the Roman army. The excavations here were not 
 completed at the time of our visit, and it was thought that 
 other interesting remains would be discovered under the 
 houses adjoining. 
 
 Aqueducts. — No ancient or modern city was ever better 
 supplied with water than Rome was, and is at present; 
 pure water brought from the distant mountains and lakes. 
 In the Campagna the ruined aqueducts form quite a feature 
 in its scenery. Appius Claudius, the Censor, was the first 
 who brought water to Rome by means of an aqueduct ; this 
 was in the year B.C. 311. The mention only of the various 
 ancient aqueducts, will give some idea of the quantity of 
 water they brought. 
 
 The Aqua Ajypia, mentioned above, brought from the 
 Via Praenestina. The Anio Vetus, brought from Augusta, 
 twenty miles beyond Tivoli, by C. Dentatus and L. Pa- 
 pirius, in the year B.C. 272. The Aqua Tepula, from 
 the Via Latina, B.C. 125. The Aqua Julia, by Agrippa, 
 the son-in-law of Augustus. The Aqua Marcia, from the 
 Sabine Mountains. The Aqua Virgo — so called from its 
 being discovered by a young girl — was brought to the 
 city by Agrippa. The aqueduct which he constructed had 
 been rendered useless by war and devastation, when it 
 was restored by the munificence of different Popes, and 
 in particular by Gregory XIII., who distributed the water 
 through the city. It is this water which supplies the 
 Fountain of Trevi, and the district of the city near it. 
 The Aqua Alsietina, brought to Rome by Augustus. The 
 Anio Novus was conveyed to the city by the Claudian 
 
214 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Aqueduct, the ruins of which, in the Campagna, are very 
 remarkable. It is still used to convey water to the city, 
 although the old conduit — which was for a long way at a 
 great height from the ground — is not now available. This 
 aqueduct — Aqua Claudia — was commenced by Caligula, 
 and finished by Claudius, and conveyed the water from 
 Subiaco, forty miles from Rome. The Aqua Sahatina, 
 brought from Lake Sabatino, now Bracciano, by the Empe- 
 ror Trajan, but the aqueduct having become useless, Pope 
 Paul V. repaired it, and constructed a splendid fountain — 
 la Fontana Paolina — on the Janiculum, to receive and dis- 
 tribute its waters. I need not enumerate all the other 
 fountains of the city, but will mention some of the most 
 remarkable. The matchless fountains of the Piazza San 
 Pietro have been previously spoken of; then there are the 
 fountains of Trevi, of Moses, of the Piazza del Popolo, Piazza 
 Colonna, and of the Piazza Navona. Every palace, or con- 
 siderable building, has one or more fountains. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE KIRCHERIAN MUSEUM — CHURCHES OF S. MARIA IN 
 TRASTEVERE, SAN PIETRO IN MONTORIO, AND THE GESU 
 — CAMPO SANTO AND TOMB OF JULIAN WATTS-RUSSELL. 
 
 On one of our visits to the Roman College we saw the 
 Observatory there, which is very interesting to lovers of 
 astronomy. The telescopes are of great magnifying power. 
 We much admired the mechanism of Padre Seechi's beautiful 
 machine. The Observatory was under the entire control of 
 this Father, whose authority as an astronomer is one of the 
 highest in Europe. 
 
 The Kircherian Museum contains very many objects of 
 interest to the antiquarian ; amongst them are a large 
 number of Etruscan remains, such as coins, medals, rude 
 figures in bronze; there is also a caricature of an early 
 Christian, which calls for the attention of every one who 
 visits this museum, as showing what was the practice of the 
 early Church respecting the crucifix and other holy images. 
 The caricature consists of the figure of a man with an ass's 
 head, nailed to a cross ; underneath is the kneeling Christian 
 engaged in prayer. There is an inscription scratched in the 
 mortar in Greek characters — " Alexamenos adoring his God." 
 There can be no doubt but that this was really done by a 
 Pagan, in derision of the Christian religion. It was taken 
 from one of the rooms of the Palace of the Caesars, and was 
 found cut in the mortar, which has been removed to the 
 Museum. It may be supposed to have been scratched by a 
 Pagan domestic of the palace, in order to deride his Christian 
 fellow-servant. 
 
 The church of Santa Maria, in Trastevere, is built on the 
 site of the Taherna Mercatoma, whence sprung up, at 
 the birth of Christ, a miraculous fountain of oil, of so great 
 
216 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 power, that it flowed hence to the Tiber. The identical spot is- 
 shown in the church, and over it is inscribed " Fons olei," 
 and on the right, " Hinc oleum fluxit, cum Christus Virgine 
 luxit."* This fact, well authenticated by the Pagan liisto- 
 rians of the time, is mentioned by later writers."}* 
 
 In 224, Pope St. Calixtus erected a small church here, 
 which was the first in Rome dedicated under the invocation, 
 of Our Blessed Lady. The present is a fine old church, sur^ 
 mounted by a " campanile " of the time of Innocent II., who 
 reigned about the middle of the twelfth century. The 
 portico, sustained by four granite pillars, was added under 
 Clement XL, and the beautiful mosaics adorning it have 
 just been restored (April, 1870). The church is at present 
 undergoing restoration, and when it is completed, it will be 
 very beautiful. The picture of the Madonna, in one of the 
 chapels, is an admirable one, but it is not always exposed to 
 public view. 
 
 San Pietro in Montorio is built near where St. Peter was 
 crucified. A circular chapel, built over the identical spot, 
 was erected by Ferdinand lY., King of Spain, and is situ- 
 ated in the cloister of the convent adjoining. In the church 
 are the tombs of two Irish chieftains, the brave O'Neil and 
 O'Donnell. The newly constructed carriage-way is due, I 
 have heard, to the exertions of Cardinal Cullen. 
 
 On the raised plateau in front of the church, a fine view 
 of Rome can be obtained, and very many times have I 
 enjoyed it, and counted up with a comrade the different 
 edifices of the ancient and the modern city. Extending our 
 view, we rejoiced in the sight of the grand scenery beyond 
 and around Rome, including tlie Campagna, the Alban Hills,, 
 the Sabines, and the distant Apennines, as well as Monte 
 Soracte, Monte Rotondo, and the Tolfa. 
 
 * "Hence flowed the fountain of oil, when Christ was born of a 
 yirgin." 
 
 t The fact of the issue of the fomitain of oil at the birth of Christ, is 
 related by Osorius, lib. 6, cap. 19 ; by Eusebius, in his Chronicle ; by 
 Paul the Deacon, and on their authority by Baronius. These citations- 
 are taken from Cornelius a Lapide. 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 217 
 
 The Corsini picture gallery is considered to contain one 
 of the finest collections in Rome. For my own part, I must 
 say, I wish I had been able to spend more time in admiring 
 and examining the masterpieces there to be seen. If I re- 
 collect rightly, the original Madonna of Carlo Dolce, which 
 is a great favourite of mine, is in this collection ; but, as we 
 paid it only one rapid visit, memory fails me in particulars 
 — I only recollect that I was very pleased with the whole. 
 
 The church of the Gesti, having been a great favourite of 
 the Zouaves, demands a few words from me. 
 
 The high altar is of marble, which is so arranged and 
 joined as to form a design. The tabernacle is a very fine 
 one, and above is a beautiful painting, representing the Cir- 
 cumcision of Our Lord, and His receiving the Holy Name 
 of Jesus. On each side of the altar are two columns of 
 giallo antico marble. On the left is the altar of St. Ignatius, 
 under which reposes the body of the Saint, while above it is 
 a statue representing him. Formerly the statue was of 
 silver, but the present one is of metal, the chasuble worn 
 by the Saint being silver. The four columns are ornamented 
 with lapis-lazuli and gilt bronze. In the middle of the pedi- 
 ment is a group of white marble, representing the Holy 
 Trinity. The globe of lapis-lazuli, which the Eternal Father 
 holds in His hand, is considered the finest and largest piece 
 known. The inside of the tabernacle is also ornamented 
 with precious stones, the outside being quite plain. To 
 see this altar in all its glory, it should be visited on the fes- 
 tival of the Saint, when the altar is radiant with lights and 
 candelabras. 
 
 On the same side is the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, 
 which is quite a gem. On either side of the chapel are rich 
 stores of relics, but these are not usually exposed, but are 
 concealed by panels, on which are painted with exquisite 
 taste different scenes in the life of Our Blessed Lady. The 
 altar and balustrade are formed of rich marbles of beautiful 
 colours, and above is the painting of " La Madonna della 
 Strada," before which St. Ignatius often prayed. Opposite 
 the altar of St. Ignatius is that of St. Francis Xavier, whose 
 
218 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 incorrupt arm is there kept in a rich shrine of gold — that 
 arm which was raised to bless, to baptize, and was instru- 
 mental in the conversion to the Christian Faith of so many 
 hundreds of thousands of souls in India, China, and Japan. 
 The altar is very beautifully gilt, and above it is a picture 
 representing some incident in the life of the Saint. This 
 church, when illuminated, presents a magnificent appearance, 
 and all its arrangements are as perfect as possible. Great 
 numbers of persons here approach to Holy Communion 
 every Sunday, and even every day of the week. 
 
 The Fathers of the Society of Jesus, so much calumniated 
 and persecuted, may be considered as the advanced guard of 
 the Church, both because they are always singled out by her 
 enemies for the first attack,* and on account of the great 
 services they have rendered and are rendering at the present 
 moment to the cause of religion, science, and learning. In 
 Rome at present (April, 1870) the first preachers, the most 
 crowded churches and schools belong to their Order. And 
 who can ever forget their services as missionaries in every 
 country, the hundreds of thousands of American Indians 
 they converted at the peril of their lives, and their models 
 of primitive Christian life, the reductions of Paraguay and 
 Uruguay, interrupted, alas ! only by the cupidity and infi- 
 delity of so-called Christians. To the Zouaves they have 
 ever shown themselves most obliging, affable, and self- 
 sacrificing. 
 
 The Campo Santo, or principal cemetery of Rome, is 
 situated near the Basilica of San Lorenzo, outside the walls; 
 at one point are seen the remains of an ancient Catacomb. 
 The general plan of the cemetery is different to any I have 
 before seen, but the raised portion near the Basilica is 
 arranged with the greatest taste, and here may be seen very 
 many beautiful monuments of rich marble. The Zouave 
 will be interested to examine the tomb of Julian Watts- 
 Russell — on his right as he ascends to this portion — on 
 
 * The Communists directed their mad fury especially against them, as 
 shown by the number of Jesuits shot or imprisoned during the last siege 
 of Paris. 
 
Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 219 
 
 which there is the following beautiful inscription, composed 
 by Father Cardella : — 
 
 "UEIC AD MARTYRUM CRYPTA8 
 
 DORMIT IN PACE 
 
 JULIANUS WATTS-RUSSELL MICHAELI3 F. 
 
 ANGLUS CLARO GENERE 
 
 PRO PETRI SEDE STRENUE DIMICANS 
 
 IN ACIE AD NOMENTUM OCCUBUIT 
 
 III. NGN. NOVEMB., AN. MDCCCLXVII. 
 
 AN. N. XVIi. MENS. X. 
 
 ADOLESCENS CHRISTI MILES 
 
 VIVE IN DEO."* 
 
 The tomb of this heroic champion of Holy Church is near 
 to that of another of our countrymen, also a soldier — General 
 Tylee — who died a holy death, as Father Cardella tells us, 
 in the Eternal City in 1865. Giulio, as he was familiarly 
 called, died on the field of victory ; after a few years spent 
 in innocence he gladly sacrificed his young life in the cause 
 of justice and religion. He was the youngest victim of the 
 battle-field, and he fell the nearest to Mentana ; his comrades 
 may well envy his happy fate, and be ready to offer up their 
 lives in the same cause. He was first buried at Monte 
 Rotondo, but his body was afterwards removed here; his 
 memory is held in great veneration by those who knew him 
 in the Zouaves, and before his entry into the corps."|* 
 
 * *' Here, near the Crypt of the Martyrs, 
 
 Sleeps in peace 
 
 Julian "Watts-Russell, the son of Michael, 
 
 An Englishman of illustrious family, 
 
 Who fell, bravely fighting for the See of Peter, 
 
 In the battle of Mentana, 
 
 The 3rd of November, 1867, 
 
 Aged 17 years and 10 months. 
 
 ! youthful soldier of Christ ! 
 
 Live in God." 
 
 t His biography has been written by Father Cardella in Italian, and 
 
 translated into English by the Rev. W. Tylee, B.A. (J. Philp, Orchard 
 
 Street). I would strongly advise all those who are interested in the 
 
 Zouaves to read it, especially as it is short and inexpensive. 
 
220 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 TOMB OF JULIAN WATTS-RUSSELL. 
 
 .... Beneath this tomb 
 In peace, a youthful martyr lies ; 
 To justice, right, religion, faith, 
 A pure and noble sacrifice. 
 
 Britannia's son, of gentle race. 
 Her children claim thee as a prize 
 Of victory, and love, and grace : 
 To win the brightest crown he dies — 
 Unconquer'd soul ! aloft arise ! 
 
 When we last visited the Campo Santo, the fine monu- 
 ment to those who fell at Mentana was in course of erection ; 
 on the panels of the base, which is of considerable size, are 
 to be inscribed the names of all those who fell in the cam- 
 paign. Above the base there is a pedestal, on which is to 
 be placed a colossal statue of St. Peter, in the act of pre- 
 senting to a crusader the standard of Holy Church and the 
 sword, with those words heard of old in the vision of Judas. 
 Maccabeus : — " Accipe sanctum gladium munus a Deo, in quo 
 dejicies adversarios populi mei Israel."* This beautiful 
 design is said to have been suggested by the Holy Father 
 himself, and it is a proof of the high estimation in which he 
 holds those who have shed their blood in defence of the just 
 rights of the Apostolic See, as well as those who have 
 fought in the same high cause. 
 
 Near the ancient Catacomb are some small chapels, erected 
 to the memory of Lieutenant Arthur Guillemin, the brothers 
 Dufournel, Captain de Yaux, and Lieutenant the Marquis de 
 Quatrebarbes, all distinguished officers, who fell in the same 
 engagement, bravely fighting in defence of the liberties of 
 the Church. 
 
 The Basilica of San Lorenzo is of considerable antiquity, 
 and dates from the reign of Constantine the Great, when it 
 was erected over the tomb of the martyr St. Laurence, in 
 the Campus Veranus. It is one of the fine patriarchal 
 Basilicas of the city. The interior is adorned with numerous 
 
 * ** Take this holy sword, a gift from God, wherewith thou shalt over- 
 throw the adversaries of my people Israel." (2' Mace. xv. 16.) 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 221 
 
 pillars, which appear to be diminished in height by the pre- 
 sent floor of the church, which in a manner cuts them in 
 two. They are of difierent orders, and were probably 
 removed here from some more ancient building. The bases 
 of these columns are placed at the level of the subterranean 
 church. Besides the body of the famous deacon and martyr 
 St. Laurence, there are the relics of several other well-known 
 martyrs underneath the high altar. In the tribune, or choir, 
 is a stone seat, or throne, for the Pope. At the period of 
 our visit the walls of the church were being painted in fresco 
 by an artist of great merit ; the exterior facade is also beau- 
 tifully painted. These restorations, like so many other fine 
 works completed under Pius IX., exhibit his love for the fine 
 arts, and the encouragement he has accorded to men of 
 genius and talent. In the vestibule are some curious ancient 
 paintings. In front of the Basilica is a column, surmounted 
 by a fine statue of St. Laurence, holding the gridiron, the 
 instrument of his martyrdom, in his hand. San Lorenzo in 
 " Panepema " is built on the identical spot where the martyr 
 suffered. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 EEMARKS ON THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF PLACES VISITED 
 NEAR ROME. 
 
 Some notes on the ancient history of the interesting locali-^ 
 ties in the neighbourhood of Rome may not be unacceptable 
 to the general reader. 
 
 It -will be proper to commence with the vicinity of Albano, 
 as the ancient city of Alba Longa, founded by Ascanius, the 
 son of MnesiSj the Trojan, was one of the earliest of the 
 Latin cities. The Alban hills are situated to the south-east 
 of Rome, and of them the present Monte Cavo is the highest 
 point. 
 
 " Monte Cavo. — This central height of the Alban hills 
 was the Alhanus Mons of the ancients, and was once 
 crowned with the temple of Jupiter Latiaris, in which the 
 Latins held their congress. This summit commands a magni- 
 ficent view of the Campagna. Hence Virgil represents 
 Juno as watching from it the fight between the Trojans and 
 the Latins : — 
 
 ** ' At Juno ex summo, qui nunc Albanus habetur, 
 
 Prospiciens tumulo, campum spectabat.'*— ^n. xii. 134."t 
 
 The modern town of Albano does not occupy the site of 
 Alba Longa, which stood between the lake and the Alban 
 Mount, and was the capital of the Latin cities; it was 
 destroyed by TuUus Hostilius. Its position is now marked 
 by the convent of Palazzolo, overlooking the lake. From 
 various authors we learn that the celebrated iEneas escaped, 
 with a considerable band of followers, from the destruction of 
 
 * But Juno from the summit of Mount Alba, looking down, beheld the 
 field of battle. 
 
 -f Bevan's " Ancient Geography," by Dr. Smith. ^ 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 223 
 
 Troy, and after a long voyage and many adventures landed 
 near the mouth of the Tiber — then known as the Albula — 
 in the year B.C. 1182. Latinus, the son of Hercules, then 
 reigned over a small territory in this part of Italy, and was 
 at war with the Rutuli. At first he was inclined to 
 treat iEneas and his followers — numbering about six hun- 
 dred men — as enemies, and marched against him ; but on 
 approaching his camp, and seeing the masterly manner in 
 which iEneas arrayed his small army, he thought it better to 
 open negotiations with the Trojan warrior, whom he found 
 only too ready to treat with him in an amicable spirit, 
 and to become his faithful ally against the Rutuli. Latinus 
 afterwards bestowed upon ^neas the hand of his daughter 
 Lavinia, and the Trojan prince gave the name of Lavi- 
 nium to the settlement or city which he founded.* The 
 kinofdom of Latium, which afterwards was of considerable 
 extent, received its name from Latinus, and its inhabitants 
 were then first called Latins,t for before the time of Latinus 
 they had been known by the name Ahorigines.X 
 
 In a battle which afterwards ensued between the Rutuli 
 — assisted by Turnus, the nephew of Latinus — and the king 
 Latinus, the latter was killed, and ^neas succeeded to his 
 dominions, and reigned four years. Ascanius succeeded his 
 father ^Eneas, and founded Alba Longa, which he made the 
 capital of the kingdom. It was from this line of kings that 
 Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome, descended, they 
 being the grandsons of Numitor, the fifteenth king in succes- 
 sion from ^neas. 
 
 Tiberius, one of the successors of ^neas, having, in an 
 engagement on the banks of the Albula, been forced into 
 the river, carried away by the great strength of its current, 
 and dro^vned, its name was changed to that of Tiber, which 
 it has ever since retained.§ 
 
 * Livy, Hb. i., cap. 1. 
 
 t " Roman History," by IST. Hooke, who follows Dionysius of Halicar- 
 nassus. 
 
 X Livy, lib. i., cap. 1. 
 
 § Tiberis flumen, i.e., the Tiber, takes its rise in the Apennines, flows- 
 south and then west. About two miles above Rome it joins the Anio — 
 
224 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Lago di Albano. — The ancient Alhanus Lacus, six miles 
 in circumference, and undoubtedly the crater of an extinct 
 volcano. There being no natural outlet for the waters, an 
 artificial emissary cut through the rock — still existing — was 
 pierced B.C. 397, and conducts the waters to the Tiber by 
 the Rivo Albano.* 
 
 Lago di Nemi, anciently the L. Nemorensis, and famed in 
 antiquity for the sanctuary of Diana, Nemus Diance. The 
 modern village owes its name to the lake. 
 
 The ancient Albans retained their independence until the 
 reisfn of TuUus Hostilius, who ascended the throne as third 
 king of Rome, B.C. 671. 
 
 " During his reign an open rupture took place between the 
 Romans and the Albans. The armies of both nations soon 
 took the field, and advancing against each other, met at a 
 distance of five miles from Rome. Here, in order to avoid 
 an unnecessary eff*usion of blood, it was agreed that instead 
 of a general battle there should be a combat between three 
 champions from each party, with the condition that the issue 
 of this contest should decide the fate of the two armies, 
 
 " There were at this time in each army three brothers of 
 great strength and valour, the Horatii and the Curiatii. 
 According to the more common opinion held by ancient 
 authors, and adopted by Livy, the Horatii belonged to the 
 Roman, the Curiatii to the Alban side. On these devolved 
 the honour of the important conflict. They advanced from 
 their respective camps with equal resolution, and carrying 
 within themselves, as the historian expresses it, the courage 
 of two great armies.'f* As soon as the clashing of their 
 
 now Teverone — which also rises in the Apennines, near Treba, and at 
 Tivoli forms a remarkable waterfall. The waters of the Anio are very 
 pure, while those of the Tiber are thick and muddy, and liable to sudden 
 risings. Horace says, "Vidimus flavum Tiherinij^ and Macaulay says, 
 "yellow Tiber." — Bevan's "Ancient Geography." 
 
 * Bevan's " Ancient Geography." 
 
 t " Infestis armis, terni juvenes magnorum exercituum animos geren- 
 tes, concurrunt."— Livy, lib. i., cap. 25. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 225 
 
 swords was heard, all the beholders were struck with awe, 
 and awaited the result with breathless anxiety. 
 
 "Soon after this terrible onset the three Curiatii were 
 wounded, but two of the Horatii fell dead. The Albans at 
 this spectacle shouted for joy, whilst the Romans were dis- 
 mayed, and trembled for the surviving brother, now sur- 
 rounded by his opponents. Fortunately for him he was not 
 wounded, and although unequal to the task of fighting the 
 three together, was more than a match for them singly. To 
 separate them he retreated, and as the Curiatii, unable to 
 keep up with him, were soon at some distance from one 
 another, he rushed upon the nearest and slew him on the 
 spot, and successively dispatched the other two. Thus 
 almost the same moment which had witnessed the despair 
 of the Romans, saw them in the enjoyment of a complete 
 victory, won by the prudence and intrepidity of their 
 warrior."^ 
 
 Victory having been thus declared for the Romans, the 
 Albans professed their submission ; but as they afterwards 
 were guilty of perfidy, Tullus Hostilius put their general to 
 death, razed the city of Alba, and transferred the inhabitants 
 to Rome, where they became blended with the mass of the 
 Roman population. 
 
 TuscuLUM, near Frascati, on a spur of the Alban hills, 
 with its citadel on a lofty peak east of the town. Founded 
 by Telegonus, son of Ulysses and Circe. People of Tuscu- 
 lum originally steadfast allies of Rome, except during the 
 Latin war. Afterwards many Romans of fame had villas 
 here. Cato, Maecenas, and Cicero, whose Tusculan Disputa- 
 tions were here composed at his villa, now the vUla Rufinella. 
 There are remains of walls, piscina, and two theatres yet to 
 be seen. The town was destroyed in the middle ages, and 
 its inhabitants rebuilt their dwellings lower down the hill, 
 and founded the modem town of Frascati.-f* 
 
 The Volsci spread over the greater part of the southern 
 district of Latium, from the sea-coast to the borders of Sam- 
 
 * Fredet's ** Ancient History." 
 
 t Sevan's " Ancient Geography." By Dr. Smith. 
 
 15 
 
226 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 nium, now Abruzzo; they thus held the Pontine Marshes, 
 the Volscia,n Hills — now Monte Lupin o, Monte Cacume, &c., 
 — and the valley of the Liris, now the river Garigliano. As 
 we were quartered with our company at Ceccano, and this 
 town is situated in the territory of the ancient Volsci; we 
 were able to cross the mountains — the Volscians — and 
 enjoy the beautiful scenery of hill and dell in their vicinity. 
 This has been mentioned in the trip from Ceccano to Piperno 
 in the first year of my Zouave life. Anxur — now Terracina 
 — was the capital of the Yolsci. 
 
 YiA Appia, the great southern road of Italy, issued from 
 Kome by the Porta Capena, along with the Via Latina^ 
 and took a direct line for Terracina, thence to Formise, 
 and by sea- coast to Sinuessa, and thence inland to Capua, 
 Beneventum, and Brundusium — now Brindisi — constructed 
 as far as Capua in B.C. 312, by the Censor, Appius Claudius."^ 
 
 YlA Cassia ran from Rome through the heart of Etruria, 
 by Sutrium and Clusium, to Arretium, and thence by Flo- 
 rentia, across the Apennines. 
 
 Etrueia, ancient boundaries, N. the Apennines ; E. and 
 South-east the Tiber ; W. the Tyrrhenian Sea ; it included 
 the Maremma. In the south-east district were extinct 
 volcanoes, which have now become lakes ; some portions are 
 fertile ; harbours along the coast deficient. The mountains 
 included Argentarius, now Argentaro, a promontory on the 
 coast ; Soracte, now Monte S. Oreste ; and Ciminus Mons, 
 now Monte Cimino, forming the northern boundary of the 
 great plain of the Campagna.-|- 
 
 This ancient state was divided into twelve cantons, or 
 Lucumonies, which were subject to twelve heads, who 
 governed with a sort of sovereign authority. "The names 
 of the twelve capital cities of the Lucumonies were, accord- 
 ing to Cluverius and Holstius : Clusium, Perusia, Cortona, 
 
 * The numerous lamps around tlie shrine of St. Peter are kept hurning 
 with oil of olives, grown on a piece of land, which is said to have been 
 given by A. Claudius for the purpose of keeping his road in repair, but 
 since given to the Basilica of St. Peter, for the purpose of keeping the 
 lights burning around the tomb of the Apostle. 
 
 t Bevan's ''Ancient Geography." By Dr. Smith. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 227 
 
 Arretium, Volaten-a, Vetulonium, Rusellse, Tarquinii, 
 Volsinii, Caere, Falerii, and Veil. Etruria was long the 
 mother of all the learning and politeness of the Bomans ; 
 they sent their children thither to cultivate their minds, till 
 the conquest of Greece furnished them with a better school."* 
 
 These twelve cantons sometimes united together for the 
 common defence of the mother country ; they were first 
 reduced to obedience to the Roman power by Lucius Tar- 
 quin, fifth king of Rome, he being liimself an Etruscan by 
 birth, but a Greek by descent. They were, however, as 
 yet by no means a conquered people, for we find them often 
 engaged in war with the Romans during the next three 
 hundred years, until they were finally subjugated about B.C. 
 280. 
 
 The localities and sites of the ancient Etruscan cities, 
 visited by myself and comrades of the Zouaves, comprise 
 those which were nearest to Rome, i.e. in the Pontifical States. 
 I will commence with Corneto ; near it, further inland, on 
 the river Marta, stood Tarqiiiniiy the oldest Etruscan city, 
 now called Turchina. There are many existing remains. 
 
 Tarquinii was the birthplace of Lucumo Damaratus, who 
 afterwards took the name of Lucius Tarquin from his native 
 city, settled in Rome, and became its fifth king, B.C. 614. 
 
 BoLSEN A, formerly Volsinii, on the shore of Lacus Volsinii. 
 The Etruscan town was on the hill, the Roman on the plain, 
 near the lake. The old town destroyed by Romans, B.C. 280. 
 Volsinii was the birthplace of Sejanus, the favourite of 
 Tiberius.f 
 
 Faleru, now Civita Castellana. The Roman town of 
 the former name stood nearer to Monte Soracte. 
 
 Veii stood twelve miles from Rome, at Isola Farnese. In 
 the year B.C. 396 Veii had been besieged unsuccessfully 
 during nine years by the Romans. " Ultimate success might 
 have proved hopeless, had not Furius Camillus been ap- 
 pointed to the supreme office of dictator. This illustrious 
 
 * See Foot-note in " Roman History." By N. Hooke, Esq. Page 62. 
 Edition of 1825. 
 
 t Bevan's ''Ancient Geography." By Dr. Smith. 
 
 15—2 
 
228 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Ttoman was distinguished alike for liis valour, his skill, and 
 the experience which he had acquired in inferior employ- 
 ments. As soon as he assumed the command of the troops, 
 he revived courage and discipline amongst them, increased 
 the fortifications of their camp, defeated the allies of the 
 Yeientes, and pressed the siege of Veii more than ever. 
 Still, as he perceived the great difficulty of taking so strong 
 a city by storm, he caused a mine to be dug by his troops, 
 extending from the Roman camp to the enemy's citadel. 
 When it was completed, he ordered a general assault on the 
 place. Whilst the Veientes, not aware of their real danger, 
 ran to the different parts of the wall in order to repel the 
 assailants, a body of choice soldiers entered, by order of 
 Camillus, the subterranean passage, penetrated into the 
 citadel, and thence spread through the city. Some attacked 
 the garrison from behind, some began to fire the houses, 
 whilst others hastened to open the gates of the town to 
 their fellow soldiers. In a few moments this mighty capital 
 was entirely in the hands of the Romans. The quantity of 
 spoils which they found in it was beyond description, and 
 the dictator, loaded with glory, enjoyed triumphal honours 
 suitable to the importance of his conquest."^ 
 
 Falerii was besieged two years later by the same Camillus. 
 "Here he effected by his justice and generosity what he had 
 effected at Veii by his prudence and valour. One day a 
 schoolmaster, who had under his charge the children of all 
 the chief families of Falerii, led them, under pretence of 
 exercise, to a certain distance from the city, and betrayed 
 them into the hands of the Roman general. Camillus, fired 
 with indignation at this base conduct, exclaimed : — ^ Have 
 we, then, taken up arms against children, whom we spare 
 even in the storming of cities, and not rather against men, 
 who have provoked our resentment, and who, moreover, can 
 defend themselves ? God forbid that I should avail myself 
 of this base ofier of a traitor, to conquer the FalisciT 
 Having said this, he dismissed the perfidious master, and 
 obliged him to return to the town, with his hands tied 
 
 * Dr. Fredet— " Ancient History." 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 229 
 
 behind him, and under the incessant lashes of his young 
 pupils. This act of humanity and justice so moved the 
 Falisci, that they no longer hesitated to surrender to so 
 generous an enemy."^ 
 
 Agylla, or Caere, now Cervetri, was founded by the 
 Pelasgi, but conquered by the Etruscans ; it is mentioned 
 by Herodotus ; in B.C. 353 it received the right of Roman 
 citizenship. This site must attract the very highest interest 
 of all students and lovers of antiquity. 
 
 Centum Cell^e, now Civita Vecchia, owes its magnificent 
 port to Trajan. 
 
 SuTRiUM, now Sutri, W8i;s the scene of a Roman victory 
 over the Etruscans, B.C. 311, gained by the consul, Q. 
 Fabius. " Fabius marched against the Etruscans, and de- 
 feated them near Sutrium. The runaways took refuge in 
 the Ciminian forest, a forest, says Livy, more impassable 
 and dreadful than those of Germany, and through which 
 not even a single merchant had ever yet made his way. 
 Fabius was almost the only man in the army who had the 
 boldness to think of entering into it. They were afraid of 
 finding Caudine Forks in Etruria. The general had with 
 him at this time a near relation, named Coeso Fabius, who 
 had been educated at Caere, in Etruria, and spoke the lan- 
 guage of the country perfectly well. Coeso undertook to 
 examine the forest, and the places about it. He was ac- 
 companied in this enterprise by only one servant, who, 
 having been brought up with him, was also well acquainted 
 with the Tuscan language. They were clad in the habit of 
 shepherds, bearing each a cleaving bill and two javelins, 
 after the manner of the peasants. But neither their dress, 
 their arms, nor their familiar use of the lanoruaore was so 
 good a security to them against a discovery, as the general 
 notion that no stranger would dare to enter that forest. In 
 this disguise they are said to have travelled as far as Came- 
 rinum, in Umbria (two days' journey) ."-f- We learn further, 
 that upon Coeso returning and delivering his report, Fabius 
 
 * Dr. Fredet— ** Ancient History." 
 t "iioman History." By N. Hooke. 
 
230 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 immediately prepared to enter the forest with his army, and 
 after amusing the Etruscans by a skirmish outside the woods, 
 retired to his camp, and then marched off early next morn- 
 ing, and joined before nightfall the main body of his army, 
 which was already penetrating the dense and hitherto im- 
 passable forest. The next morning he reached the top of 
 Mons Ciminus, which was on the farther side of the forest, 
 and gave the name to it. On this mountain he beheld the 
 fertile plains of Etruria, to the conquest of which he had 
 now prepared the way, by passing the impenetrable woods, 
 which had hitherto been its security on this side. Fabius 
 now returned to Sutrium, and the Etruscans immediately 
 prepared to attack him. 
 
 Fabius, to deceive the enemy, still pretended fear, and 
 kept close within his intrenchments ; but he bade his men 
 refresh themselves, and be ready for action at the first signal. 
 To raise their courage he made a short harangue to them, 
 extolling to a high degree the exploits of the Eoman arms 
 in Samnium, and assuring them that the Etruscans were not 
 soldiers comparable to the Samnites for strength or courage. 
 About the fourth watch of the night he drew up his army 
 in order of battle, within the intrenchments of the camp, 
 caused the rampart to be levelled, and the ditch to be filled, 
 and then marched out, and surprised the enemy while half 
 asleep, and lying scattered over the plain. Of the Etruscans 
 60,000 men were slain, or taken prisoners. Their camp was 
 seized and plundered. Three of the most considerable lucu- 
 monies after this overthrow sent deputies to Kome to sue for 
 peace ; they obtained a truce for thirty years.* 
 
 This same Fabius afterwards obtained another signal 
 victory over this people at Lake Vadimonius — which has 
 now disappeared; — it was near Viterbo, the north-east of the 
 Yia Cassia. It was in the year B.C. 309 that this battle — • 
 contested obstinately by the Etruscans, who had chosen each 
 other for the service,*!- or bound themselves to conquer or to 
 die — was gained by the Romans, and the whole army of the 
 Etruscans put to flight. 
 
 * <' Eoman History." By N. Hooke, Esq. 
 t Livy, lib. ix., cap. 39. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifieal Zouaves. 231 
 
 It should have been mentioned before that Sutrium was 
 the scene of one of the exploits of the celebrated F. Camillus. 
 This town was in alliance with Rome about 388 B.C., when 
 it was attacked by the Etruscans. Camillus, by order of 
 the Senate, marched to its relief, but before his anival the 
 city had capitulated to the enemy, and the inhabitants had 
 obtained only their lives and the clothes on their backs. In 
 this destitute condition they were going to seek new habita- 
 tions, when CamiUus met them, bade the women dry up 
 their tears, and promised to transfer their sorrows to the 
 enemy. This promise he performed, for the Etruscans, secure 
 after their victoiy, and wholly employed in plundering, had 
 left the gates of Sutrium open, and without guards. He 
 came upon them by surprise, slew many, and made an in- 
 credible number of prisoners. The Sutrini before night 
 found themselves again in possession of their city, which had 
 been thus taken twice in one day.* 
 
 Nepeti, now Nepi, became an ally of Rome, B.C. 386. 
 This city, together with Sutrium, on the frontier of 
 Etruria, formed two bulwarks of Rome, and the keys of the 
 former country. Nepeti, having surrendered voluntarily to 
 the Etruscans, was taken by assault by CamiUus.f 
 
 TuscANiA, on the river Marta, now Tuscanella, was for- 
 merly a city of Etruria. On a good map in my possession 
 an ancient Etruscan cemetery is marked out as being in the 
 neighbourhood of Tuscanella, in the direction of Viterbo, and 
 near some of the numerous rivulets which rise in the vicinity, 
 and afterwards run into the Marta. 
 
 In one of our trips here mentioned, i.e. from this place to 
 Montefiascone, we must have passed near to this cemetery, 
 but as we were ignorant of its existence, we had not the 
 good fortune to visit it. 
 
 ** Roman History," by N. Hooke, Esq., page 293. 
 IdeTJi, 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 EETURN TO ENGLAND-— VOYAGE — MARSEILLES— PARIS — 
 BOULOGNE — LONDON, ETC. 
 
 April 28th, 1870.— At half-past ten a.m. I left the Eternal 
 
 City, accompanied by Messrs. R , Johnson, Raymond, 
 
 Thomas, and about fifty other Zouaves going home, either 
 on conge, or on permission for a limited period. 
 
 Mr. Johnson and I regretted very much leaving the holy 
 city of Rome, endeared to us by so many associations, the 
 many kind friends we had left behind, and the beautiful 
 clear skies and fine country of Italy. For myself, I have 
 never yet experienced so many feelings of regret in quitting 
 any other place, not excepting my own home ; nevertheless,. 
 I console myself with the hope of seeing it again, for 
 as I looked on the scenes I have loved so much, and on 
 St. Peter's, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore, I could 
 not bring myself to believe that it was for the last time ; 
 but the presentiment came that I should behold them again. 
 I may be deceived, for the human mind is often betrayed 
 into illusions ; this was, then, my idea of bidding them 
 adieu, and it has often returned. 
 
 After waiting a long time at Civita Vecchia, we embarked 
 at last on board the " Pausilippe," of the Messageries Im- 
 periales line. The weather was such as we are accustomed 
 to in England, the sky overcast, the clouds giving a leaden, 
 muddy appearance to the atmosphere, the wind cold and 
 threatening, everything betokening a stormy passage. On 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 235 
 
 reaching the open sea we found it very agitated, and a very 
 fresh breeze blowing; several on board were taken with 
 sea-sickness. As we proceeded on our voyage the weather 
 became worse. During the night the wind increased to a 
 gale, which continued till the next morning. About seven a.m. 
 one of the paddle-wheels became damaged, and steam had 
 to be shut off to repair it. After a delay of about an hour 
 this was repaired, and we started again ; the wind had now 
 calmed somewhat, and there was no further cause for 
 apprehension. We, who were not ill, enjoyed the second 
 day's voyage, but we had passed through a rough night, 
 
 and R and I had remained on deck, although it was 
 
 raining hard, but I was wrapped up in two blankets. 
 
 E, went down below at five in the morning, as he was 
 
 quite wet through. Raymond and Thomas, more fortunate 
 than we, had managed to secure two berths in the cabin, 
 and they were able to get some sleep when the wind 
 moderated in the morning. 
 
 The second day we made better progress on our voyage, 
 although the wind blew quite fresh, and the sky was gene- 
 rally overcast. In the afternoon we enjoyed the passage 
 across the blue Mediterranean, and the view of the coast of 
 France we were approaching. The Maritime Alps, and tho 
 port of Toulon, the rocky height of Notre Dame de la Garde, 
 and the port of Marseilles are all striking features which 
 help to produce the beautiful scenery of these coasts ; if 
 these, too, be combined with the sea, calm and tinted with 
 its deepest azure hues, a scene of loveliness is produced, 
 which I suppose cannot be surpassed on any other sea-coast 
 in the world. I have looked on many pictures representing 
 the Mediterranean, and wondered whether they were not 
 exaggerated ; in my opinion they were not, for I must own 
 that the reality well bears out the representation, and there 
 can be no doubt that this sea far surpasses in beauty the 
 Atlantic, as seen at least from the British Isles. 
 
 We arrived safely in port at four a.m., April 30th, having 
 been thirty-eight hours at sea. I should have noticed before 
 the fact that our dashinor Lieut.-Colonel de Charette — since 
 
234 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 famous for liis exploits during the Franco-German War, for 
 which he has been raised to the rank of General — accom- 
 panied us on our voyage. I believe he was returning to 
 France on leave of absence for a short period. 
 
 At daybreak we went on shore. R accompanied me 
 
 to the Sanctuary of Notre Dame de la Garde, where we did 
 not forget to return thanks to God and Our Blessed Lady 
 for our safe voyage so far. 
 
 On the rock on which this Sanctuary is situated we ad- 
 mired the position of Marseilles, placed as it is between the 
 mountains and the sea — the lovely blue Mediterranean, with 
 its rocky isles emerging boldly from its depths, one at least of 
 which, were it gifted with speech, could tell its stirring tale 
 of other days now numbered with the past. This scene is 
 varied by vessels, large and small, and by the fine ports of 
 the city, crowded by the masts of ships of every kind. 
 
 This Sanctuary of Our Blessed Lady is one of the most 
 famous in France. The church is a fine one, of a peculiar 
 style, resembling the Moorish. The whole of it is not yet 
 completed ; the Emperor and Empress are amongst the con- 
 tributors to its erection. The high altar and sanctuary are 
 adorned with very good taste, and a great number of lights 
 and ex-voto offerings show forth the devotion of its numerous 
 pilgrims. On the fete of the church the numbers who take 
 part in the pilgrimage and procession are very great, amount- 
 ing sometimes, if I remember rightly, to 150,000. 
 
 The cemetery of Marseilles is laid out with great taste, 
 and it was a great pleasure to me to be able to visit it, and 
 to observe the great respect paid to the memory of the 
 departed here and elsewhere in France. 
 
 The foundation of the city and port of Marseilles dates 
 from a very remote period. Massilia was once inhabited by 
 a colony of Phosnicians, and is mentioned in the ancient 
 history of Rome. 
 
 We left this city in order to continue our journey before 
 mid-day. Now we were en route for Paris, and we remarked 
 on our way that the fruit-trees of the south of France were 
 more advanced than in the neighbourhood of Rome, but that 
 
Txvo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 235 
 
 the corn was later. The climate of the south of France is 
 very warm, and the air very clear. On passing Marseilles 
 for the first time, on my way to Rome, in the beginning of 
 the month of March, I found many visitors to the gardens of 
 that city sitting out-of-doors and enjoying the warm genial 
 air of early spring, an enjoyment that we in England would 
 hardly venture to indulge in before the month of June. 
 
 We remarked, en i^assant, the great skill of the French in 
 the matter of pruning and the cultivation of their fruit-trees, 
 the gardens and fields exhibiting trees without a bit of super- 
 fluous wood, but yet of the greatest vigour, health, and 
 regularity. The scenery of the south of France, as seen 
 from the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean Railway, following 
 the valley of the Rhone from Aries and Avignon to Lyons, 
 includes in some places a view of the distant Alps, and is in 
 reality very fine, but cannot be compared in grandeur to 
 that of Italy ; and we felt it could not compensate to us for 
 the loved scenes we had left behind in Rome and its States. 
 From Lyons to Dijon the railway follows the valley of the 
 Saone, a tributary of the Rhone, and afterwards enters that 
 of the Yonne, which it keeps until the latter falls into the 
 Seine near Fontainebleau. At Avignon is seen the palace 
 which belonged to the Popes till 1790. On our way we 
 amused ourselves tocjether as well as we could, and, as niorht 
 came on, we tried the experiment of standing up together at 
 the door of the carriage at the different stations, so as to let the 
 passengers on the platform believe, if they liked, that our com- 
 partment was full ; by this means we managed to get some 
 sleep between the stoppages — about every two hours. We 
 were often not more than four together in one compartment. 
 
 The next day I questioned some inhabitants of the pro- 
 vinces as to their feelings regarding the elections, which were 
 coming off in about a week ; not one of them had the least 
 sympathy for the " Irreconcilahles" or "Reds," who were 
 then trying to make so much noise in Paris. We arrived in 
 Paris about five p.m., having travelled thirty hours without 
 smy considerable intermission. 
 
 During our stay of two days in Paris we had an opportu- 
 
236 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 nity of admiring the fine Boulevards of the city. These 
 consist of wide streets, ornamented with a row of trees on 
 each side ; the centre is a perfectly macadamized road, kept 
 in beautiful order by dint of constant rolling and grinding 
 the broken stones, watering to lay the dust, and scraping to 
 remove the mud. This centre is wide enough to allow an 
 enormous traffic to be carried on over it without any confu- 
 sion or hindrance, such as arises sometimes in other cities 
 from the narrowness of the ancient streets. It is bounded 
 on either side by trees in the greatest health and vigour ; 
 and then we must not forget the wide pavements, which 
 afford the same facilities to foot-passengers as the central 
 road does to the vehicles. The omnibus traffic is so arranged 
 that, by taking a correspondance ticket, costing about six 
 sous, one can travel from one part of the city to any other, 
 without inconvenience further than that of perhaps changing 
 "'bus," and waiting a few minutes till one's own district 
 " 'bus " arrives ; add to this that the different lines are fur- 
 nished with horses — grey, black, bay — one colour peculiar to 
 one district, another to a second, &;c. ; thus every possible 
 facility is afforded to locomotion of all kinds. The trees are, 
 I think, also a great improvement to any city_, not only as 
 an ornament, but also because they contribute to healthiness 
 by consuming large quantities of carbonic acid gas, and 
 evolving oxygen. 
 
 We went to the Louvre, with the intention of visiting its 
 galleries, but it was unfortunately Monday, and we were 
 told that they were always closed to the public on that 
 day. 
 
 On walking through the precincts of the Louvre, we could 
 not help being struck by a feeling of familiarity with the 
 statues which are there seen adorning the quadrangles ; and 
 it was no wonder, for these were copies of the ancient models 
 we had admired in Rome. 
 
 We prepared to leave Paris for Boulogne the next day, 
 but we missed our train, and thus we were obliged to defer 
 our departure till night. This delay turned out an advan- 
 tage to us, for it gave us the opportunity of seeing Paris 
 
Tv}0 Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 237 
 
 from the best possible point of view, i.e., the Arc de 
 Triomphe. This triumphal arch, beautifully executed, and 
 designed after the Arch of Constantine in Rome, is a very 
 fine work ; it represents all the victories of the First Napo- 
 leon, and is ornamented with numerous figures in relievo. 
 Its position being on a slight eminence, to the centre of which 
 converge ten different streets, it forms an interesting object, 
 viewed either from the gardens of the Palace of the Tuileries, 
 La Place de la Concorde, the Champs Elys^es — all of which 
 are in a direct line leading up to it — or from the Avenue de 
 rimperatrice, which is on the opposite side, the entrance to 
 the Bois de Boulogne. During our stay we also visited La 
 Madeleine, which possesses a fine classic exterior, ornamented 
 with a forest of pillars ; Notre Dame des Yictoires, a very 
 remarkable sanctuary of Our Blessed Lady, adorned with 
 innumerable votive offerings, in thanksgiving for favours re- 
 ceived ; La Bourse, remarkable for the intense animation 
 there to be seen displayed in the transaction of business. 
 
 On our way from Paris we passed Amiens, where there is 
 a splendid old Gothic cathedral ; its age and style is of the 
 lancet period, in process of transition to the decorated. The 
 cathedral itself is a perfect building in one style, or period, 
 of Gothic ; of the altars I admired that of the parish, the 
 one given by the Empress — these both possess Gothic deco- 
 rations and canopies — and the altar of the Blessed Sacra- 
 ment. If I am not mistaken, there was also a fine statue 
 here of a weeping angel. 
 
 Boulogne comprises three 'distinct towns, viz.. La Haute 
 Ville, or upper town, within the ramparts, of considerable 
 antiquity ; La Basse Ville, or lower town ; and St. Pierre, on 
 the cliffs, where dwell the fishermen, who are almost a dis- 
 tinct race from the other inhabitants. Boulogne is famous 
 as a watering-place, and it is the resort and residence of 
 numbers of English visitors. It possesses a fine sandy beach, 
 and its environs are very pretty and interesting ; it is also 
 noted for its educational establishments. 
 
 I visited Boulogne for the first time in 1865, and the fine 
 cathedral was not then completed. Up till this time I must 
 
238 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 confess to a certain amount of prejudice against the suita- 
 bility of the classic style for cliurches or cathedrals; there 
 was, however, quite sufficient to be seen in Notre Dame de 
 Boulogne to claim my admiration, and to induce me to 
 change somewhat my opinion. Notre Dame is of the classic, 
 or what may be more properly called the Italian style ; it is 
 surmounted by a fine lofty dome, about three hundred feet 
 high, and this is always a most conspicuous object on 
 approaching Boulogne, either by sea or land. The paintings 
 are well executed by Paul Delacroix, and form one great 
 attraction of the cathedral ; the roof of the nave and transepts 
 is semi-circular, and it is enriched with these paintings, 
 which, whether viewed through the circular openings in the 
 ceiling — which almost give the idea of every painting being 
 enclosed in a separate dome — or viewed in a body from one 
 point, have a beautiful effect. I was much struck with the 
 great reverberation of sound which this cathedral possessed 
 at the period of my first visit ; this I imagine to be a good 
 point in so large a building. 
 
 In the choir, over the high altar, is a statue of Notre 
 Dame de Boulogne, or, our Lady of Boulogne, in a boat, and 
 around, the^choir is enriched with the votive offerings of the 
 fishermen of St. Pierre, who are very devout to our Lad}^ 
 Under the cathedral is a very large ancient crypt, which 
 possesses fine groined arches, ancient inscriptions, and some 
 very old paintings of the Evangelists and Apostles. One 
 portion is fitted up as a Calvary, and lighted with a reflected 
 crimson light; another as a chapel of Our Lady, with a 
 blue light. This arrangement was most effective and 
 beautiful 
 
 I give the following tradition of Notre Dame de Boulogne, 
 without vouching for its authenticity in every particular. 
 About A.D. 620 a statue of our Lady in a boat without 
 pilot or rowers, arrived at Boulogne. The people flocked 
 to the shore to see the prodigy, and carried the statue with 
 great respect to the cathedral church, where it was held 
 in high veneration until the sacking of the building by 
 Henry YIII., King of England, when the statue was cast 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 239 
 
 into the fire, but refused to burn. It was, however, destroyed 
 at that period of sacrilegious desecration, the Revolution 
 of 1793. 
 
 I visited at the same time the church of St. Francis of 
 Sales, and the chapel of Notre Dame du Saint Sang, both of 
 which are the works of Messrs. H. and C. Hansom. The 
 former is a pretty building in the Romanesque style, and 
 the latter is a small but beautiful Gothic structure. The 
 traditions of the chapel are of great antiquity, and we learn 
 from an inscription on the wall that the foundation of the 
 original structure is assigned to St. Victorique in the year 
 280, that in it the Gospel was preached to the Boulonnais, 
 and that about the year 1100 the Relique du Saint Sang'de 
 Notre Sauveur J^sus Christ was brought from Jerusalem to 
 St. Ide by Godefroi de Bouillon. 
 
 La Haute Yille contains La Place Godefroi de Bouillon, in 
 which is seen the remains of the palace of the Counts of 
 Boulogne, consisting of a belfry, formerly the keep of the 
 castle. 
 
 A pleasant walk brings one to the statue of Napoleon I., 
 which is erected on the spot where this Emperor pitched his 
 tent during the time he encamped his army here previous to 
 his intended invasion of England. From these heights 
 Napoleon I. beheld the white cliffs of that Albion he was 
 destined never to conquer. But the third Napoleon showed 
 more wisdom in recognising that the true interests of France 
 and England counsel them to alliance instead of enmity. 
 This statue is situated between the Tour d'Odre — a relic of 
 antiquity — and a Calvary, due probably to the piety of the 
 fishermen, for it is here, as in so many other places in the 
 north of France, a striking object on approaching the port 
 from the sea. 
 
 On this particular visit of ours to Boulogne we enjoyed a 
 very pleasant walk to the column of Napoleon I., situated 
 at some little distance from the town. We also were most 
 kindly received by a gentleman on whom we called. He 
 and his good lady felt the most lively interest in the corps 
 of the Zouaves, as their son was thinking of joining it. 
 
240 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 After spending a most agreeable day — we must not forget 
 another visit which we paid to a lady, a relative of one of 
 our intimate Zouave friends,, who was very pleased to hear 
 of him — we went down to the London Bridge steamboat, 
 and secured our berths. The sea was very calm, so that we 
 were able to sleep very comfortably till the early morning, 
 when on going on deck we found ourselves amongst the 
 fogs and mists for which the river Thames and shores of 
 England are so nmch noted. As the day dawned the scene 
 did not much improve. It was indeed a dull, heavy, dreary 
 welcome this to our native country after more than two 
 years' absence in bright, sunny Italy. Who could not but 
 feel some regret in exchanging the bright sunshine and clear 
 air of that favoured clime for the heavy, oppressive atmo- 
 sphere of the Thames, which weighed on our souls with the 
 effect of lead ? 
 
 Both days we were in London the weather exhibited the 
 same dull, misty features, and it was only on leaving the 
 metropolis and emerging into the open country by the 
 Great Western railway, that I experienced some sense of 
 relief from the oppressiveness and fog which characterised 
 the atmosphere of London. 
 
 Although the climate of England has many objectionable 
 features, yet its homes are generally prepared to give one a 
 hearty welcome, and it was with great pleasure that I entered 
 my home, and was united once more to my family and friends. 
 
 Nothing very remarkable happened in relation to our 
 €orps after my return till about the time of the sudden 
 breaking out of war between France and Germany. At 
 that time Sergeant Shee, of the Zouaves, had been spending 
 some few days with me, he being then on leave of absence 
 from Home. I well remember accompanying him to the 
 Swindon Station on a Monday in July, for it was then we 
 both first learnt .the news of the declaration of war by 
 France. This news occasioned us some very deep reflec- 
 tions, for we both at once saw the possibility of another 
 raid upon Rome. I felt some regret at being absent at this 
 critical period ; but stiU I was inclined to hope that France 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 241 
 
 would continue her protection to the Holy Father, and 
 would not abandon him at this juncture to his enemies. 
 The event unfortunately proved otherwise. Sergeant Shee 
 returned to his post in the Eternal City immediately there 
 was the slightest appearance of danger. 
 
 In this same month a great friend of mine wrote from 
 Montefiascone, telling me that the revolutionaries had 
 crossed the Pontifical frontier, but they were immediately 
 dispersed through the prompt measures taken by the Papal 
 and Italian troops, Captain D'Arcy's company on this 
 occasion acting as a "flying column." The company to 
 which my friend belonged kept their sacs made up for ten 
 days, and were employed in patrol duty on the frontier. 
 Carrigan, he says, has distinguished himself in taking a 
 brigand chief. Carrigan and a gendarme were the first to 
 go upstairs into the room to arrest this chief. Two of the 
 least Zouaves one could find (an Englishman named Dew 
 being one) were fired upon by four brigands one dark night, 
 between Bassano and Sutri. The first shot from a Zouave 
 rifle brought one of the brigands to the ground. These two 
 small Zouaves received silver medals for their bravery in 
 taking these brigands, as also did Carrigan. The friend 
 who furnished me with the above particulars has always 
 been most devoted in his attachment to the Holy Father 
 and his sacred cause. His sentiments will be seen by this 
 extract from his letter to me — 
 
 " I had thought of coming to England, but being so well 
 off here, having a good chance of being in for the first 
 " coujp de fusil" and being so near the frontier I told 
 
 Mr. that I had made up my mind to stop ; otherwise 
 
 I had thought of starting to England with him." 
 
 He also informed me that the French troops had left 
 Civita Vecchia, so that the Holy Father had now only to 
 depend on the fidelity of his own little army in case of 
 attack. 
 
 Both in this letter, and in one he wrote to me on August 
 29th, he urged me most strongly to return to the Zouaves 
 
 16 
 
242 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 at the hour of danger, for they were (at Montefiascone) 
 prepared for any emergency, and might be attacked any 
 moment by the Italians, who were massing on the frontier. 
 *' Who knows," he says, " now the troops are on the frontier 
 again, but we may be fighting before the week is out ?" 
 Such an appeal could not but produce a response in the 
 heart of a friend and comrade. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 THE ZOUAVES AT MONTEFIASCONE. — THE MASTERLY RETREAT 
 OF LIEUT.-COLONEL DE CHARETTE. 
 
 The friend before mentioned has kindly furnished me with 
 the following graphic narrative. 
 
 On the evening of August 19th intelligence was received 
 by the officers of the Zouaves in Montefiascone that an 
 attack was intended by the Italians that night or early the 
 next morning. Two companies of the fourth battalion were 
 then in garrison at Montefiascone, under Captains D'Arcy 
 and de Messeliere. The commandant and superior officers 
 of the battalion had their quarters in the town. On receiv- 
 ing the aforesaid intelligence all necessary preparations were 
 made, the officers of the companies passing the night in the 
 barracks, while, as usual, scouting parties were sent out to 
 watch the approaches to the town. The men were so accus- 
 tomed to the thought of being called out at any moment to 
 face the enemy that it caused no excitement, and no alarm 
 being given, the night passed quietly away. 
 
 The companies were exercised principally in the skirmish- 
 ing drill. The words uttered one morning by the com- 
 mandant — M. de Saisy — were well worthy of note. 
 
 The men had just been halted on the undulating downs 
 about a couple of miles from the town. Previous to sending 
 out skirmishers M. de Saisy made them a short address, 
 advising them to pay great attention, saying : " In a few 
 days you may have to do it in earnest over the same ground, 
 and let me recommend you all to prepare yourselves by a 
 
 16—2 
 
244 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 good confession, for with clear consciences you can but fight 
 well. The Zouaves have never flinched yet, however great 
 the odds against them, and let us remember that, when the 
 occasion comes." 
 
 In much more telling language did this brave old defender 
 of the Holy See encourage his men. A Dominican Father, 
 Pere Doussot, who spoke English very well, came from 
 Yiterbo to assist Pere Flamand (a Belgian, and also an active 
 and zealous son of St. Dominic), so that all the Zouaves 
 might have an opportunity of confessing in their own 
 language. Thus till late that night and early the following 
 morning the chaplains were busy at their work. 
 
 Captain Adjutant Major Yyart, who had been out all 
 night, came into the barracks, throwing himself down on a 
 bed among the men, who were busy cleaning their accoutre- 
 ments, went off* fast asleep, thus waiting for the Mass at 
 which the general Communion was to take place. 
 
 Pere Doussot celebrated the Mass, and, while the commu- 
 nicants were kneeling at the altar-steps waiting to receive, 
 he made them a short but touching exhortation, winding up 
 by saying that the Holy Father had sent his blessing in a 
 special way to all the Zouaves in the Viterbo Province. 
 
 For several weeks were the Italians expected. A small 
 detachment of Zouaves, under a sergeant and corporal, were 
 quartered in the centre of the town. Guards were mounted 
 at several of the gates every night. The Porta Pia, being 
 commanded by the guard at the San Francisco barracks, was 
 considered sufficiently secure without any addition being 
 made for it. Sergeants, with several men, were despatched 
 every night along the roads leading to the frontier, in order 
 to give the alert in case of any unexpected movement. On 
 the morning of September 11th a rumour came that the 
 Italians had crossed the frontier, but it turned out to have 
 no foundation. A section of the fourth company was sent 
 off", in charge of Lieutenant Algand, but they returned after 
 a fruitless march. The idea among the officers and men 
 appeared to be that resistance was to be made as long as 
 it was possible, and then those who were not killed would 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontijical Zouaves. 24)5 
 
 tiy and retreat to Rome. Sealed orders, however, which 
 were only to be opened when the Italians had crossed the 
 frontier, directed M. de Saisy to retire on Viterbo and join 
 Colonel de Charette. Early on the morning of September 
 11th the men of each company were roused in silence. In 
 a few minutes all were up, and the barracks, which shortly 
 before had been wrapped in the quiet of night, became a 
 scene of bustle and animation. Baggage was packed and 
 carried into the corridors, and from thence transferred to the 
 carts, which were in readiness at tlie barrack-gates. All was 
 effected in silence and order, and before three, a.m., the carts 
 were loaded and on their way to Civita Vecchia, leaving 
 behind only the straw mattresses. 
 
 The men wore their best uniforms, so as to be well pro- 
 vided for the campaign. All then lay down again in their 
 clothes, knapsack and rifle at their heads, ready for the first 
 summons. The military Mass, for it was Sunday, was 
 deferred till nine o'clock, a little before which hour the com- 
 panies met under arms in the Piazza, and then marched to 
 the cathedral church. After the Mass the Commandant 
 reviewed the companies, and complimented the men on their 
 well-tilled ranks after the alei-t of the night. The Zouaves 
 were then free to employ themselves as they liked, provided 
 they did not go beyond bugle call. They were required to be 
 in the barracks from mid-day till four o'clock, so as to secure 
 some repose, in case of a night march. The retreat sounded 
 an hour earlier than usual, all the men paraded with their 
 knapsacks and arms, and forty rounds of cartridges were 
 served out to each man, making a hundred in all. 
 
 The men were then sent to lie down, with orders to be 
 ready for an immediate start. Scarcely half an hour had 
 elapsed when the bugle called to arms ; five minutes more, 
 and the companies drew up on the road leading to Viterbo, 
 just outside the gate of the town. Perfect stillness reigned 
 within the walls. The ground sloped downward from the 
 gate, and some distance in front there stretched a grassy plot, 
 shaded by trees; the peaceful moonlight playing on the 
 arched gateway. The quiet of the slumbering town was 
 
246 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 not in consonance with the thoughts of war and invasion. 
 Meanwhile skirmishers of the 4th company were thrown 
 out in line, in front of the gate, while two squads were sent 
 inside to man the walls. The rest of the company was 
 drawn up in reserve below the gate. The 3rd company 
 gradually withdrew towards Viterbo, after which the squads, 
 being called out from the town, rejoined their company, 
 which followed the 3rd, marching in section ; the skirmishers 
 were then called in, and the small body moved forward on 
 its way to Yiterbo. The town was only quitted on the 
 approach of the Italians. A few Dragoons, part of the gar- 
 rison of Montefiascone, formed our advance and rear-guard. 
 A halt was made a few miles from Viterbo, while scouts 
 were sent on to learn if the town was still held by the Pon- 
 tifical troops. Finding that all was right, the word was 
 given to advance, and about two o'clock in the morning the 
 two companies entered the gates of Viterbo, and halted in 
 the large Piazza. Everything had been prepared to give the 
 enemy a warm reception ; earthworks had been thrown up 
 outside the gate, which was covered with mattresses. Lieu- 
 tenant-Colonel de Charette came into the Piazza, looking 
 every inch a soldier, and surveying with marked pleasure 
 the well-filled ranks of the two companies that had just 
 arrived. The 1st of the 4th was immediately called under 
 arms to go out en reconnaissance, and to cut the tele- 
 graph wires, while the 3rd and 4th took up the quarters 
 which the others had just left. Viterbo presented that 
 morning a curious appearance, the soldiers passing rapidly 
 up and down the streets, with cheerful but earnest counte- 
 nances ; the grave and bewildered looks of the population 
 showing that unusual events were about to happen. In the 
 Piazza were all the horses of the cavalry ready saddled, the 
 ammunition and artillery horses ready harnessed. Dragoons 
 galloped backwards and forwards with despatches. Specu- 
 lations were rife as to whether a stand would be made in the 
 town. It turned out, however, that the Colonel's orders 
 were to retire upon Rome on the coming of the Italians. 
 At two o'clock the bugles sounded to arms, as the videttes 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 247 
 
 came galloping into the town ; the men fell into the ranks, 
 while the artillery, with the train and baggage, started to 
 quit it by the road leading to Vetralla. The 3rd and 4th 
 formed the advanced guard, while the 1st company was the 
 last to leave. The little troop was quickly out of the gates, 
 accompanied by the good wishes of the inhabitants, who 
 prayed the Madonna and St. Rose to protect it. Up the 
 steep hilly road, inches deep in dust, which thickened the 
 air, we mounted with unrelaxed speed, while the hot Italian 
 sun poured down its burning rays. The advanced guard 
 was then sent into the vineyards on each side of the road, 
 and thrown out in skirmishing order, to cover the retreat of 
 the main body. The bunches of ripe grapes were godsends 
 to clear the choking dust from our parched throats, as water 
 was not to be had. After about three-quarters of an hour 
 the 3rd and 4th were called back to the road, and formed 
 the rear-guard. Thus the march continued till the town 
 of Vetralla was reached, and nothing occurred beyond the 
 rear-guard being thrown out in skirmishing order, to repel 
 the attack of some Italian Lancers. 
 
 Some of the Dragoons narrowly missed being taken pri- 
 soners at Viterbo by the Lancers. One officer, and his 
 orderly half-a-dozen paces in front of him, were pursued by 
 them. The officer rode coolly away from them, turning 
 round and brandishing his sword, while he invited them to 
 come on. The Zouave guard in the Piazza remained behind, 
 having received orders to leave as soon as the troops were 
 out of the town ; but not receiving any further orders, and 
 not knowing when the retreat had been completed, they 
 stayed and were made prisoners. 
 
 Lieutenant-Colonel de Charette would gladly have made 
 a stand in Viterbo, but, as he himself said, " I have my 
 orders, and must obey them." He executed the retreat from 
 Viterbo in a most masterly manner, as two corps dHarmie of 
 the Italians were advancing on each side of the town. He 
 remained till the last moment, in case some of the other 
 companies in their retreat might have tried to join him 
 there. A detachment had been taken unawares by the 
 
248 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Italians at Bagnorea. Captain de Kermouil's company from 
 Valentano had been heard nothing of; it seemed impossible 
 that he could have escaped, but, on account of his perfect 
 knowledge of the country, some hopes were entertained that 
 he had. On the retreat from Viterbo one bridge was blown 
 up to retard the advance of the enemy. Arrived at Yetralla, 
 the advance guard was placed with the artillery at the 
 entrance to the town, while the others marched and encamped 
 in an olive grove. In Vetralla were collected about two 
 hundred gendarmes, who had retreated from their respective 
 stations, and assembled there to join the main body. It was 
 a sad sight to see these brave men, some of them grown grey 
 in the service, thus driven from their homes and families. 
 They might have stopped and taken service under the flag 
 of Piedmont, but men who had previously left their homes 
 in the States seized by Victor Emmanuel after Castelfidardo, 
 would not now desert the Holy Father in his hour of need. 
 It was their boast to serve him from father to son. 
 
 The night was spent in the open air among the olive-trees, 
 while several fires, being lighted, threw a partial glow over 
 the Zouave camp. The men lay on the ground, their arms 
 being piled. One hour or more before daylight most were 
 awake and stirring, warming themselves at the camp-fires, 
 and smoking; news seemed to have made its way among 
 them. The most inspiriting report was that Captain de 
 Kermouil, commanding the 2nd company, had efiected his 
 retreat from Valentano, and that he was somewhere ahead. 
 The other piece of information, which proved to be true, was 
 that his retreat was cut off by the Italians, who were in 
 possession of the road to Corneto, the only road by which he 
 could retire. The road leads from Vetralla to Corneto, where 
 you take the railway to Civita Vecchia. We drank a 
 draught of hot coffee before sunrise, and then everything 
 was got in readiness for resuming the march. The town 
 stands on an abrupt eminence, with a valley on either side. 
 The Corneto road winds round one side of the town, gra- 
 dually descending till you are in the valley, where the road 
 bends to the right and ascends the other side of the valley. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 249 
 
 We were again under arms, and commenced the march, 
 the 1st and 4th companies occupying the post of honour as 
 the advanced guard. A few Dragoons and the mounted 
 Gendarmes went first, then the Zouaves, after which followed 
 the Artillery, a mitrailleuse, the ammunition and baggage 
 waggons, the foot Gendarmes, and the rear brought up by 
 the Zouaves — the 4th battalion forming both advance and 
 rear-guard. As the head of the column gained the summit 
 of the hill on the opposite side of the valley, a prolonged 
 " Viva Pio Nono ! " rung back on the town, as some hundred 
 voices sang the Pope's Hymn. Such was the last "viva" 
 for the Holy Father in Vetralla. The day, which had 
 dawned threateningly, gradually improved, though the sky 
 was clouded. Once clear of the valley of Vetralla, the road 
 ran straight, over a slightly undulating country, to the little 
 town of Monte Romano. The telegraph wires were cut as 
 soon as the march began. About half-past ten Colonel de 
 Charette halted his little troop in Monte Romano ; the rifles 
 were piled, guards told off and placed. The 1st of the 4th, 
 as advanced post, took up position on the hill overlooking 
 the road and plain towards Corneto ; the rest scattered about 
 the place and through the town, and an air of life and 
 bustle was imparted to it that it rarely wore. The men 
 brought wood and water, and all the few preparations for 
 cooking the rations were speedily made. Groups of soldiers 
 were everywhere standing, sitting, and strolling about, 
 while others sought the fountains to wash away the dust 
 and dirt of the march. 
 
 While at Monte Romano, authentic confirmation arrived 
 of the news that the Italians had entered Corneto. This is 
 the next town on the road after Monte Romano. By this 
 road we had hoped to reach the railway and proceed to 
 Rome, and now we found that we were intercepted. The 
 day had turned out most gloriously, the sun was shining in 
 all its splendour, and scarce a cloud appeared to hide the 
 clear blue sky. Doubt had given place to certainty, and 
 our suspense was ended, the Italians lay between Rome and 
 the Zouaves; the orders were to retire to Rome, and so 
 Rome must be reached. 
 
250 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Our spirits went up, and everyone felt that, come fighting 
 or not, no triumph was at hand for the enemy. Again, the 
 news that Captain de Kermouil had reached Civita Vecchia, 
 proved most inspiriting. At three in the afternoon prepa- 
 rations were made to resume the march, and by half-past 
 the advance guard had issued forth from the gate and 
 gained the road leading to Corneto. About half a mile 
 from the gate the road was abandoned, and turning to the 
 left, the column pursued its way down a rough hill-side. 
 It was a pretty sight to see them winding down into the 
 valley, a beautiful miniature army, with its picturesque uni- 
 form and the flashes of the sunlight glancing off the bright 
 scabbards and rifles at every moment. 
 
 A looker-on would almost have imagined that a review 
 or sham-fight was going to take place, rather than that the 
 little army expected to have to cut its way through the 
 enemy before night. Small as the column was, the extended 
 line descending the valley made it look double its number. 
 
 The weather was delightful after the greatest heat of the 
 day was over ; the scenery too was very charming, though 
 wild and uncultivated. The march led us along a grassy 
 country broken occasionally by clumps of trees. Later on 
 the vanguard reached the bank of a river ; descending, they 
 plunged in, and emerging on the opposite side ascended a 
 high, steep hill, crowned by a verdant wood. The scouts 
 always a head, had made a careful reconnaissance, and the 
 troop halted at length on the summit, where the wood was 
 partially open. Few persons passing over the same country 
 would believe that artillery with ammunition and baggage- 
 waggons had been brought up those heights. Even the 
 horses seemed to know that it was no ordinary occasion that 
 called on them to tax their iron muscles to the utmost ; all 
 however, safely reached the top. The last rays of the sun 
 had left the mountain-top, and darkness had set in before 
 the march was resumed, so it became difficult to mark the 
 features of the ground we passed over. Owing to the skill 
 of the officers the march was kept up pretty briskly, though 
 marked by great caution. Not a word was allowed to be 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 251 
 
 spoken, and all noise was avoided as far as possible ; pipes 
 and cigarettes were absolutely forbidden, Nor did this 
 prove an excess of caution, for after about an hour's ascent, 
 as we gained at length the high road which ran along for 
 some miles nearly at a level, down below on the right hand 
 were plainly visible the camp fires of the Italians. They 
 had left Cometo and were on their way to Civita Vecchia. 
 
 It might not be amiss to mention here, that the 5th of 
 the 4th battalion of Zouaves, stationed at Civita Castellana, 
 under the command of M. de Resimont, having received 
 orders some time previously to offer all the resistance it 
 reasonably could, in order to keep open the line of retreat 
 for Colonel de Chare tte, had only surrendered to 15,000 
 Italians, when the little fort was ready to crumble from the 
 effect of the fierce cannonade. As many of the enemy fell, 
 they could hardly realize the fact that scarcely a Zouave 
 was hit. By the occupation of Civita Castellana, the retreat 
 by that road was rendered impossible. 
 
 The camp fires of the enemy before mentioned gradually 
 faded from our view, one mile after another was accom- 
 plished, till the road began to descend, and to wind round 
 the hill-sides, then it traversed a valley, after which it 
 ascended again and seemed to wind back in the old direction. 
 By this time the moon had risen, and though it was hard to 
 distinguish much, the effect of the moonlight, breaking 
 through the trees that skirted the roadside, was very beau- 
 tiful, contrasting with the gloom of the valley just passed, 
 where the moon was not yet high enough to illuminate it ; 
 a table-land appeared to stretch away in the distance from 
 the now level road, though woods' appeared again on some 
 sides. A halt of half an hour took place, during which it 
 was determined again to abandon the high road, taking onl}^ 
 the two pieces of artillery and the mitrailleuse j thus 
 leaving the baggage to make its way into Civita Vecchia by 
 the road if they should chance to escape the attention of the 
 enemy. The hardest part of the march now really began, 
 there was no road, and the direction taken led through 
 woods which opened out occasionally, but at other times 
 
252 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 barel}' left room for the artillery to force its way tlirough. 
 About an hour and a half was spent in getting the artillery 
 up a frightfully steep and stony ravine, which was only 
 accomplished by the untiring energy of the men, who 
 exerted their united efforts to get them up foot by foot. 
 
 This difficulty over, the woods were left behind, and now 
 an apparently interminable plain, thickly strewn with rocks 
 and nearly destitute of soil, stretched itself before us ; those 
 were weary hours as each slowly passed by, and still the 
 same rocky plain reached far away before us. 
 
 The Colonel was on foot, exchanging now and then a 
 kind word with his men, whom he styled familiarly " mes 
 enfants." As mile succeeded mile some began to wonder 
 where we were going ; others imagined that Civita Vecchia 
 had been occupied by the Italians, and that the object was 
 to try to gain the railway nearer Rome. At last, however, 
 it was seen that we were approaching the end of the plain, 
 and it was with the most intense satisfaction that we 
 descried the lighthouse of the harbour rising above the 
 level. Wo were now descending a slope, when the shipping 
 came in sight, and an English frigate gracefully floating 
 outside the harbour was disclosed to our view. Then 
 gradually the town of Civita Vecchia was unfolded before 
 us, and three quarters of an hour later the streets of the 
 town echoed back the tramp of the little troop, which had 
 just completed a forced march of about 35 miles in 22 hours, 
 and 42 miles in all. The baggage wagons had arrived safely. 
 
 It would have been something to have effected the retreat 
 even had the artillery and baggage been left behind, but to 
 have slipped about the country surrounded by some 00,000 
 Italians, without leaving them so much as a bit of baggage, 
 must have proved very annoying to the enemy. It was 
 4 o'clock in the morning of the 14th of September, before 
 the men entered the barracks, and at once they threw 
 themselves down on the straw, and soon hunger and thirst 
 and weariness were forgotten in slumber. By seven o'clock 
 most of them were stirring again, and by eight the rappel 
 had sounded. At the first dawn of daylight the smoke of 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 253 
 
 some half-dozen vessels of the Italian fleet was seen on the 
 horizon, and later on their unsightly hulks were visible. 
 Before nine they had arrived at the mouth of the harbour. 
 A telegram, rlespatched to the authorities in Rome, an- 
 nouncing the safe arrival of the "Division Charette" in 
 Civita Vecchia, proved most welcome intelligence, as they 
 had not known wliat to expect. A train sufficient to 
 accommodate the force was immediately despatched from 
 Rome to bring us in. Food and wine had been served out 
 as soon as time allowed it to be procured. 
 
 A little after nine tlie train was filled, and M. de Charette, 
 mounting the engine beside the driver, we started for the 
 Eternal City. 
 
 The Zouave depot, and Captain de Kermouil's company 
 were left in Civita Vecchia, with some companies of the 
 Cacciatori, and a small detachment of artillery. Meanwhile 
 the train was speeding swiftly along, the banks on either 
 side flew by, when emerging from the undulating country, 
 the train skimmed along the water's edge — the sea running 
 into the land at that point — and we saw close to the shore a 
 frigate, with her broadside to the railway. There being no 
 air to wave her flag, it was impossible to tell her nationality. 
 Many an eye was watching the frigate, expecting to see the 
 tongues of fire shoot out from her broadside. One breath- 
 less moment of suspense, and the speeding train was past, 
 while a slight breath of wind disclosed the English flag to 
 view. 
 
 The miles sped swiftly by, and but one stoppage occurred, 
 owing to some culvert on the railway having broken down. 
 About two miles from Rome the train stopped ; we de- 
 scended, and formed in our respective companies. The order 
 to advance being given, the troop was speedily in motion, 
 anxious to set foot once more within tlie walls of the 
 Eternal City, and rejoined the comrades who awaited us. 
 Emerging from the thick cane plantations that grew on 
 either side of the railway, the line of march ran along the 
 banks of the Tiber ; on one side we were entirely sheltered 
 from observation, while on the other the city gradually un- 
 
254 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 folded itself to view ; dome after dome of the beautiful 
 churches rose in the picture among the solemn monuments 
 of antiquity. Every step and every glance brought to the 
 heart some happy reminiscence. When within a quarter of 
 a mile of the walls, the river side was left, and as we 
 gained the high road, the Porta Portese appeared in view. 
 The old and venerable gate was covered with mattresses ; 
 earthworks had also been thrown up in front of it. Nearer 
 and nearer drew the little band, till rounding the earth- works, 
 we entered the gate. Crowds of people came to see the 
 march through the city. Travel-stained and dusty uniforms 
 bore witness to the toils endured by our troop, and words 
 of welcome exhibited the sympathy of the Romans for us. 
 The events of those few days will not soon be forgotten by 
 those engaged in them, each one of whom can testify to the 
 daring and genius of our able Lieut.-Colonel, the brave De 
 Charette, who conducted this masterly retreat with consum- 
 mate skill, under no ordinary dangers and difficulties. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 EVENTS OF SEPTEMBER, 1870 — DIARY OF A ZOUAVE OFFICER 
 DURING THE SIEGE — BRAVE CONDUCT OF GENTLEMEN 
 RETURNING TO THE CORPS, ETC. 
 
 The letter mentioned in the last chapter but one, together 
 with an appeal to the ex-Zouaves from another quarter, 
 made a profound impression upon me, and other old Zouaves 
 with whom I was in correspondence. We now felt that if 
 ever our presence were required as defenders of the Holy 
 Father and of the Eternal City, now was the time, and 
 having been appealed to, we began to consider it a point of 
 honour to return to the post of danger. 
 
 After two or three days' reflection, I began to mak;e 
 arrangements, and on Sept. 8th wrote and gave notice that 
 I intended to give up the business I was managing, in order 
 that I might return to the Zouaves as soon as possible. I 
 made known my intention also to my old comrades of the 
 
 corps, and three of them, E , Raymond, and Weet- 
 
 man, declared their intention of accompanying me. Before, 
 however, we had made the necessary arrangements prepara- 
 tory to leaving England, came the unlooked-for intelligence 
 of the surrender of Rome to the Italians, which took place 
 Sept. 20th. Thus, much to onr chagiin and disappointment, 
 we were compelled to remain at home, and abandon our 
 design of returning to the Eternal City. 
 
 Of the events which led to the surrender of Rome to the 
 troops of the Robber King, I cannot do better than insert 
 the following summary, kindly furnished me by two friends, 
 who bore a very prominent share in the defence. 
 
 Sept. 10th, 1870. — Ponza di San Martino arrives in Rome 
 
256 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 with Victor Emmanuers letter to the Pope, and is received 
 by the Holy Father. 
 
 13th. — At 9.30 a.m. I receive orders to assemble immedi- 
 ately at Trinita dei Monti ; I am then ordered to Porta Pia, 
 from which point to the river is occupied by the Zouaves. 
 
 It was on this day that the memorable combat of Ser- 
 geant Shee with a troop of Italian Lancers took place. 
 This skirmish of the brave Sergeant and four other Zouaves 
 against half a squadron of Lancers exhibits in bold relief the 
 courage of these five men. Their company, the Qieme du 3, 
 having been ordered to reconnoitre the enemy, had occupied 
 Monte Mario at 5 a.m. The gallant Sergeant commanded 
 the advanced guard, which took up a position about 600 
 yards ahead of the company. A cavalry-man was seen ad- 
 vancing, but was supposed to be a Pontifical Dragoon, for 
 an orderly was expected Avith despatches ; as he neared the 
 post, the Zouaves perceived their mistake — he was an 
 Italian, and behind him rode half a squadron of Lancers. 
 On perceiving the Zouaves, they immediately deployed, and 
 cut off the Sergeant and his four men from the rest of the 
 guard. The first volleys fired dismounted some of the 
 Lancers, and on their approach Sergeant Shee unhorsed and 
 killed the sergeant of the troop. This first encounter resulted 
 in a loss to the enemy of one killed, nine wounded, and two 
 prisoners. The Italians now retreated over the hill near, 
 and just as the Zouaves, congratulating themselves on their 
 marvellous escape, were preparing to depart, they were 
 again attacked by ten to one. The Italians demanding a 
 surrender, the Zouaves replied that no such word was 
 understood by them. The enemy paid dearly for every 
 wound the Zouaves received. At length all his men being 
 wounded and made prisoners, the Sergeant, now himself 
 also wounded, was left alone to sustain the unequal contest, 
 and after placing several of the enemy hors de combat, he 
 fell insensible, from the eff'ect of a fearful blow on the head, 
 which, cutting his kepi in two, inflicted another severe 
 wound. He was taken for dead, and awaking from his 
 stupor, found himself on a cart with several dead bodies^ 
 
Two Tears in the Pontifical Zouaves. 257 
 
 but electrified the Italians by an enthusiastic shout of 
 " Viva Pio Nono !" He had received nine lance and sabre 
 wounds ; at the Italian camp his wounds were dressed, and 
 every care was taken of him, and he met there his brave 
 men, all of them badly wounded. (He has now completely 
 recovered, but he is justly proud of his scars, received in 
 defence of the holiest of causes.) 
 
 14th. — Captain de Fabbri's company skinnish on Monte 
 Mario. 
 
 15th and 16th. — Both quiet; occupied in filling sand-bags 
 and completing the barricades outside the gate. 
 
 I7th. — The Italians cross the Tiber, between the Ponte 
 MoUe and Teverone, the Swiss Carbineers retiring from the 
 Ponte Nomentano, and the Antibes Legion from the Ponte 
 Mammole. The enemy by this flank movement invests the 
 city on the south side. Columns are seen advancing from 
 the direction of Albano. We get into position two rifled 
 12- pounders, instead of the two field-pieces. 
 
 18th. — The anniversary of Castel Fidardo. The Italian 
 Lancers showing in groups, the garrison of Macao send them 
 some shots. The Bersaglieri occupy the Osteria della 
 Barocche, 2000 metres from the Porta Pia, near the Convent 
 of S. Agnese fuori le mura ; I send a shell to dislodge them. 
 
 19th. — Captain de Couissin, of the 3 du 1 Zouaves, and 
 Captain du Raquier, of the Swiss Carbineers, occupy the 
 Villa Patrizi, just outside the gate (Porta Pia). Some shots 
 are exchanged by the skirmishers, with no loss to our side, 
 but some of the Italians are hit. 
 
 20th. — During the night batteries were placed by the 
 enemy in the Villa Dies, about 800 yards from the Porta 
 Salara, and also in the Villa Albani. At 5 a.m. the first 
 shot is fired ; after fifteen minutes the two half companies 
 — of Zouaves and Swiss — retire from the Villa Patrizi, and 
 the bombardment becomes hot. About 6, one of my two 
 guns is dismounted, the enemy's fire takes us en ccharpe, 
 and we cannot command their position. I send off the 
 caissons and the other gun, spiking the injured one. Lieu- 
 tenant Vicomte de Montcabrier, Sub-Lieutenant Tortosa, 
 
 17 
 
258 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 and Sergeant-Major Capialli di Carife — two Neapolitans — 
 distinguish themselves in this operation. The sand-bag 
 parapet of the barricade is knocked to pieces ; I close the 
 iron grilles, and get half of the company on to the parapet 
 to the right of the gate, that on the left being useless and 
 unapproachable, except by a ladder. At 7 o'clock the fire 
 becomes terrible, and as we have but our rifles to depend on, 
 the enemy advance their cannon to 400 metres, but are 
 obliged to fall back to 500, then to 600, and finally to 800 
 metres. 
 
 8 o'clock. — By this time the Police and Excise Offices on 
 the inner side of the gate are knocked to pieces, the gate- 
 front is injured and part of the parapet ; about half-past 8, 
 they — the enemy — place some guns on the road, and send 
 shells through the arch of the gate, these sweep the Via di 
 Porta Pia and the Via del Quirinale as far as Monte Cavallo. 
 My gun, with others, is placed at the fountain of Moses, 
 opposite the Madonna della Yittoria, to enfilade the enemy 
 if he should assault the gate, whilst the Zouaves at the 
 gate are to take the enemy in flank from the shrubbery. 
 The Maresciallo and the men round the piece are knocked 
 over, the guns are drawn down to the Quattro Fontane, 
 where they still command the gate. 
 
 9 o'clock.— The Swiss company at my right is recalled. 
 I refuse to quit without a positive order addressed to my- 
 self; I place my reserve under shelter of the wall and in 
 the bushes, the other section keeps up the fire from the 
 parapet. I send a few men to replace in part the Swiss. 
 I have no news from the regiment, and there is a report 
 that a breach has been made, and that the Porta del Popolo 
 has been taken. 
 
 10 o'clock. — I received orders from General Zappi, through 
 Colonel Jeannerot, to retire to the Piazza de' Termini, passing 
 throuo^h Macao. I find the last gun leavino^ Macao under 
 Lieut, de Falaiseau. A second line of defence is being 
 established by the Zouaves and the Swiss (2 J companies of 
 Zouaves and 3 companies of Swiss) ; we place bundles of 
 straw, and the men in skirmishing order. General Zappi 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 259 
 
 now orders us to cease, as the resistance is over. We place 
 a gun and my company at the entrance of the Macao to 
 prevent the enemy's advance, but tliese are withdrawn as 
 the Coi-so, Pincio, &;c., are occupied. 
 
 We receive notice of the capitulation ; the men are furious, 
 and a scene ensues for more than half-an-hour, they break 
 their rifles and fling about their cartridges. 
 
 We are sent into the cloister of Michael Angelo, at Santa 
 Maria degli Angeli, and carry in straw, &;c., in the evening 
 we pile arms on the Piazza, where the Italians bivouac. 
 
 21st. — Grand defile of the troops on the Corso ; horrible 
 orgies going on until after midnight. 
 
 From the above diary it will be seen with what bravery 
 and fidelity the Pontifical troops fought to defend Rome, 
 until the moment when, by orders of the Holy Father, they 
 were commanded to lay down their arms ; the obedience to 
 this order, — i.e., to surrender while they felt themselves 
 unconquered — was the highest sacrifice Pius IX. could have 
 demanded of his Zouaves. To fight and to shed their 
 blood in his defence, this they willingly did, but to surrender 
 to the wretched Italians, the instruments of sacrilege and 
 robbery, this indeed was the greatest trial to which they 
 could be subjected ; thus, although the majority of the 
 Pontifical troops recollected that obedience is a soldiers 
 first duty, and acquiesced at once in the orders of the 
 Sovereign Pontiff*, yet it can occasion no great surprise, that 
 in their fit of astonishment at the capitulation, some few 
 should have given vent to their disappointment as related 
 above. 
 
 On calm reflection, every one will see that the Holy 
 Father was guided in his decision, in this affair, by the 
 greatest prudence ; for, had he not made any resistance at 
 all to the superior forces of the Italians, they might have 
 distorted his conduct into an approval of their iniquitous 
 spoliation; on the other hand, had he made a prolonged 
 resistance, in the face of the immensely superior strength of 
 the Italian army, the ultimate result must have been the 
 same, and his enemies would have had a pretext for accusing 
 
 17—2 
 
260 Two Years in the Pontifical Zo\iaves. 
 
 him of sacrificing many valuable lives to no purpose. Thus 
 in deciding to resist the forcible seizure of Rome, and at the 
 same time issuing orders to General Kanzler, to capitulate 
 should a breach in the walls be eflfected, we may conclude 
 that Pius IX. chose the happy medium, and acted with the 
 most consummate wisdom. 
 
 The following letter, which appeared in the Evening 
 Freeman of September 29, 1870, contains a few additional 
 particulars. The writer was an old Zouave, who returned 
 to rejoin the corps at this critical juncture : he shall speak 
 for himself : — " I arrived in Rome at midnight on the 21st, 
 to find, alas ! that I was too late to take part in its defence. 
 I did not know till I was close to the gates, having driven 
 from Civita Vecchia — there being no train — that the Italians 
 were inside the walls. The siege lasted five hours. Our troops 
 numbered 8,000, with 30 guns. The Italians, in number 
 65,000, with 150 pieces of siege artillery, played with fearful 
 eff'ect on the walls and gates, and it was only when resistance 
 any longer was perfectly fruitless, that the Papal troops laid 
 down their arms. Our enemies entered by force while the 
 capitulation was being arranged — soldier-like conduct ! 
 They were accompanied by the emigrati men, who had been 
 exiled for political offences, or, having been condemned in 
 Rome for murder and every abominable crime, had escaped 
 into Italy. These opened the Roman prisons, and then the 
 work of blood commenced. No one's life is safe now. The 
 solitary Zouaves who may be found, are butchered in the 
 streets. I saw, yesterday morning, a poor Zouave led, all 
 alone, down the Corso to slaughter. The gendarmes are 
 thrown into the Tiber, and we are conquered, par exem'ple ! 
 loy soldiers. Our townsman. Captain de la Hoyde, is the 
 talk of everyone — his conduct, his bravery was worthy of 
 an Irishman. He defended the Porta Pia magnificently — 
 forty guns played on it. Of all in Rome there were two 
 whose names will be remembered. Monsignor Stonor stood 
 the whole time of the fight among bursting shells and balls 
 falling as thick as hai], giving Absolution. Mrs. Stone, the 
 personification of heroism, was at her post, always the 
 
Two Years in tite Pontifical ZovAxves. 2G1 
 
 spot of the greatest danger aDd need, tending her poor 
 wounded, 
 
 " Our men arc all prisoners. The Irisli and English are 
 to be sent to Genoa, where Monsignor Stonor is at this 
 moment going, to have every care taken of them, and have 
 them at once sent to Enofland. 
 
 " I am. Sir, 
 
 "Bartholomew Teeling." 
 
 The heroism of one distinguished lady has been recorded 
 in the commencement of this work, and corroborated by 
 General Kanzler's report, and also by Mr. Teeling in the 
 letter just quoted. The succeeding narrative, kindly fur- 
 nished me by a friend, describes the courage under fire, and 
 the presence of mind shown by another English lady during 
 the siege of Rome. 
 
 " Rome, September 23rd, 1870. — I leave for Civita Vecchia 
 to-night .... my heart beats fast still. I am so afraid of 
 the mob. I was on Dr. Torriani's staff of the ambulance, 
 the only lady. On Saturday I mounted my red cross on my 
 arm and went to see Father Alfieri at the St. Jean de Dieu, 
 to enroll myself for hospital work. He asked me to do am- 
 bulance work, as there were plenty of ladies for the hospital. 
 The request took me aback, but I said yes ! so he sent me 
 to tell different people to go to certain points at the first 
 firing of cannon. Early on Sunday I went to Holy Com- 
 munion at St. Peter's, and then I called upon Ceccarelli, the 
 head surgeon, atSapto Spirito. He sent me to the Termini 
 to join Torriani. This pleased me, for almost all my friends 
 were up there. I got a room in which to take shelter, and 
 passed Sunday and Monday in running errands, invested 
 with the red cross, which was then my protection, now 
 alas ! my life would not be safe if it were seen. On Mon- 
 day I was at the Tre Arche when the sortie was made, 
 which resulted in two wounded Zouaves and many wounded 
 amongst the enemy. Just as I was getting some refresh- 
 ment, a Captain of the Roman Legion ran up to me and 
 said, ' Madame, on vous demande, il y a deux blesses.' The 
 
262 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 poor fellows were brought in, neither of them dangerously 
 wounded. 
 
 ■ " I said a tiny word to Our Lady that she would strengthen 
 me for the sight of blood, and she did, for I was able then 
 and next day to do all that was required of me. 
 
 " That day we had no more wounded, so at night I lay 
 down without undressing, but I could not sleep, for I knew 
 the dawn would bring sad work. At a quarter to five I 
 heard the first boom, I arose at once, and was at the ambu- 
 lance before five o'clock. 
 
 " The doctor laughed, and said I was in a hurry ; no 
 wounded could come yet. The firing was fearfully heavy — 
 the balls coming thick over the Porta Pia. Then I heard a 
 shout — ' Signora, Signora, un ferito.' I ran across and found 
 one poor fellow, who had been working at the fortifications 
 
 -he was lying in a pool of his own blood ; he was covered 
 with blood, while his face was as pale as death ; I had him 
 removed on a cart. His wound was not mortal so far, but 
 it was terrible to behold. Directly afterwards others were 
 brought in. We were in the midst of the fire — cannon balls 
 came whizzing by us, so we were obliged to pick up our 
 basins, bandages, etc., and make for S. Maria degli Angeli. 
 We were soon compelled to quit this also, and to remove to 
 the Hospital of the Forgati, close by. There the wounded 
 came in thickly, so we had no time but to do what was 
 absolutely necessary for them, and send them to S. Spirito. 
 At ten o'clock we heard that the Italians were in. Captain 
 de la Hoyde having received orders to surrender. 
 
 " Then the scene was terrible. They brought the Zouaves 
 who had been defending Porta Pia into the Piazza de' Ter- 
 mini. They were crying like children at having been 
 
 ordered to surrender I was then ordered to remain 
 
 there for an hour, in case any more wounded came in, and 
 then to go to Santo Spirito. Then began my real peril ; I 
 was advised to take off my red cross, and did so. I started 
 off dusty, dirty, covered with blood, and a large bundle of 
 bandages and lint under my arm. Not a carriage was to be 
 seen. When I arrived at the Piazza di Spagna I saw a car- 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 263 
 
 riage, which I felt sure I should get, as I had often employed 
 the driver before. The man, however, instead of allowing 
 me to get into the carriage, cried out aloud, 'Andate in 
 Inghilterra, amica dei Zouavi.' Then a man, dressed as a 
 gentleman, thrust his face against mine and ordered me to 
 cry, * Viva Italia.' I refused, when others who were near 
 came and spat upon me, and knocked me about. I escaped 
 from them, and arrived safe home with my bundle. I 
 washed, changed my dress, ventured out again, and went on 
 foot to S. Spirito, where Dr. Torriani told me that they had 
 more nurses than wounded, so my services were not required. 
 He recommended me to go home — ' easier said than done.' 
 When I left the hospital I passed through side streets, as I 
 was afraid of insults in the large thoroughfares. Passing 
 over the iron bridge into the Via Giulia, I met a poor 
 woman, one of my protegees, who, unluckily, was so pleased 
 to see me that she drew attention to me by her demonstra- 
 tions of joy. There were some two or three hundred Ber- 
 saglieri near the Carceri Nuovi. Some one told them who 
 I was, and I was beset. They gathered round me, shouting 
 ' Bi-uta Papalina, amica dei Zouavi,' again and again. Some 
 spat upon me, others hustled me ; however, they failed to 
 make me quicken my pace. I passed through them without 
 real injury, but in deadly terror. I arrived home in safety. 
 The night following was one of terror ; houses were pillaged, 
 women insulted, and many outrages committed under the 
 plea of looking foi* Zouaves. 
 
 " On Wednesday I went to the Piazza of St. Peter ; all 
 the Zouaves were there. It was a heartrending sight, and 
 I stayed only long enough to do some business, and then 
 left. The Holy Father came out to the balcony and gave 
 his solemn Benediction, after which he raised his arms to 
 heaven, and then buried his face in his hands. ' Viva Pio 
 Nono, Papa e Re ! ' rose in shouts from his faithful soldiers. 
 The Swiss fired a salute. Almost immediately the Zouaves 
 were marched ofi*, and the men are now scattered to the four 
 winds of heaven. That same afternoon I was disturbed by 
 a ring at the bell. I was rather suspicious, as I was well 
 
264 Ttuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 aware of the outrages which were then being committed in 
 Borne, so I signed to my landlady to be quiet while I went 
 to the door, peeped through the little hole, and slipped the 
 bolt and lock, for I saw before me a villanous looking ruffian, 
 with a long knife in his hands, which, together with his 
 short sleeves, were covered with blood. I kept quiet, pre- 
 tending that no one was there, while he continued knocking 
 and ringing for a few minutes, which seemed to me an age ; 
 at last he went away. 
 
 "I left Rome on Saturday, the 24th of September, for 
 Civita Vecchia, where I rendered what little services I could 
 to the Zouave prisoners ; but I was obliged to leave Civita 
 Vecchia that same evening, having received an order from 
 General Cerotti to do so. He also intimated to me that I 
 was not to loiter on my way out of Italy, as I was known to 
 
 be a friend to the Zouaves I am now safe out of Italy, 
 
 and breathe more freely. I never thought I could have gone 
 through so much." 
 
 In an account written for the Freeman by a Chevalier of 
 Pius IX., the loss of the Papal troops in sustaining the 
 attack on the Eternal City is stated to have been one 
 hundred and fifty men and G.ye officers killed, while the loss 
 of the enemy is estimated to have been as high as two thou- 
 sand men hors de combat This correspondent confirms Mr. 
 Teeling's statement as to the cowardly conduct of the 
 ruffians and canaglia, who followed the Italian army into 
 Rome, in attacking defenceless Zouaves in the streets. Even 
 the Italian Bersaglieri, men pretending to the name of 
 soldiers, disgraced their profession by an act of cowardly 
 assassination, which he relates as follows: — "A young 
 Belgian nobleman — an officer of Zouaves, who distinguished 
 himself highly by repelling the enemy at the breach — was 
 walking quietly along with his fellow-soldiers, after they 
 had been taken prisoners ; he still retained his sword, and 
 this attracted the attention of some Bersaglieri, who de- 
 manded it. He laid his hand upon the hilt, and said, in 
 a quiet but firm tone, 'Jamais!' Immediately half-a-dozen 
 bayonets were buried in his body, and, in order to finish 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 265 
 
 their victim, one of the ruffians put his rifle to the young 
 Zouave's head and blew his brains out!" These assassins 
 are the men sent to Rome to represent modem civilization, 
 and to accomplish Italian unity! Can a good cause need 
 the aid of assassination ? 
 
 I have mentioned, in the commencement of this chapter, 
 how my intention of returning, with several friends, to rejoin 
 our regiment was frustrated. We have seen Mr. Teeling 
 trying to accomplish tlie same object, and arriving a day 
 after the battle. In the following " Journal of a Pontifical 
 Zouave," published in the Freeman, and copied into the 
 columns of Catholic Opinion, we shall observe how three 
 brave men passed through the Italian lines, and joined their 
 comrades inside the city during the siege of Rome : — 
 
 " It was evident Bixio meant to lose no time in his medi- 
 tated attack on the Eternal City, as his troops were on the 
 move by three o'clock on the morning of the 19th. We 
 could hear the quick tramp of the cavalry, and the heavy 
 roUing of the artillery on the old Roman pavement beneath 
 us. Exciting still further the cupidity of our vettuHno 
 (coachman) by another payment of a hundred francs to take 
 us, if possible, twenty miles nearer to Rome, we followed 
 the Piedmontese, and soon overtook their rear-guard. We 
 were obliged to give precedence to a carriage belonging to 
 one of the army surgeons, and so had ample time to note the 
 appearance of the Piedmontese troops, marching in single file 
 on our right and left. No wonder the Archduke Albert 
 should have had so little trouble in driving them before him 
 on the day of Custozza, as it may be safely said they dare 
 not engage any army of Europe of equal numbers for an 
 hour with the faintest prospect of victory. The men have a 
 careworn, prematurely aged look, and seemed utterly broken 
 down after a short march. They are sadly wanting in sta- 
 mina and espmt de coiys. On the whole, they leave one the 
 impression that they lack the most essential quality in the 
 soldier's character — indomitable pluck ! It is but just to 
 add, however, that they are likely to fight most valiantly 
 against the Pope's little army, not a tenth of their number. 
 
2GQ Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Clad simply in a coarse blue coat, buckled around the waist, 
 dirty unbleached canvas trousers, and an ill-shapen shako, 
 their tout ensemble is wretched in the extreme. 
 
 " The bugles having sounded a halt, we pushed on past long 
 trains of baggage- waggons and commissariat carts until we 
 suddenly found ourselves again face to face with General 
 Bixio, who seemed in no enviable mood, pacing to and fro 
 on the roadway. He was evidently troubled lest his supe- 
 rior, Cadorna, who commanded 40,000 men on the side of 
 the Porta Pia, should enter Rome first, and so rob him of his 
 coveted laurels. 
 
 " ' Why press on so eagerly with my army V 'Our desire 
 to be present at the operations.' ' Mais la guerre comme la 
 guerre ! Your place on the march is at the rear, and not in 
 the midst of my troops. You enjoy the excitement of the 
 war ? ' ' Most men do, but this is not war ! ' ' Cest une 
 petite affaire a present — to-morrow yoa shall see. Those 
 pet lions, the Zouaves, know how to fight ; a rising in the 
 streets (which ought to have occurred ere this, our friends 
 being in the city for some weeks) will place them between 
 two fires ! Their destruction is inevitable, as their presence 
 in Rome is a menace and a danger to Italian patriots ! ' 
 (The foregoing colloquy is set down to General Bixio.) 
 
 "At length Bixio allowed us to proceed as far as his 
 advanced post, two miles distant, with a warning not to 
 attempt to pass the lines at our peril. We were soon ap- 
 prised of the limit in question by the appearance of a number 
 of dragoons and Bersagiieri posted near a ruined osteria. 
 The officer in command told us we should remain about the 
 place, another way of saying we were under arrest. 
 
 "Leaving our impedimenta in the carriage to disarm 
 suspicion, we expressed a wish to get a sight of Rome if 
 possible, and climbed the height overhanging the road, the 
 officers making no objection. Here we held council, in full 
 view of the Piedmontese. The dragoons, with the exception 
 of those acting as videttes, were lounging in the shade, their 
 horses picketed close by ; our vetturino was consoling him- 
 self with some water, the only thing to be had. Both my 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 267 
 
 friends, Messrs. Tracy and Kenyon, though fully aware that 
 the seizure of the despatches would necessarily involve their 
 fate in mine if captured, like true Zouaves, unhesitatingly 
 declared their readiness to accompany me at all hazards. 
 At that moment, catching a glimpse of St. Peter's glorious 
 dome in the distance, we could no longer brook delay, as we 
 were only twelve miles from the Eternal City, and had given 
 no parole to the Piedmontese. 
 
 " Turning the crest of the hill, we descended rapidly, and 
 keeping along the valley, made a detour to avoid the road, 
 as the dragoons cannot easily follow across country. Soon 
 we left Bixio's army far behind us. Mile after mile we 
 hurry on, gaining fresh impulse at every step, as we see 
 St. Peter's, more and more clearly defined, towering in all 
 its majesty against the sky. Not a sound disturbs the 
 awful stillness which reigns around. It would, indeed, seem 
 as if the world stood still before the commission of the 
 dreadful crime on the morrow. But it is the calm which 
 portends the storm ; ere many hours elapse the cannonade 
 will tliunder far across the Campagna, and make the shep- 
 herds cower in their huts on the slopes of the hills. On 
 and on we press, with an ardour fast becoming a fever of 
 excitement to reach the goal of our hopes, utterly regardless 
 of the danger of falling in with Cadorna's cavalry scouts 
 endeavouring to cut off communication with the devoted 
 city. 
 
 " At last we are under the fortifications ! Friends recog- 
 nise us from above, Mr. Edmond de la Poer, M.P., Major 
 Lewis, and Captain Coppinger, who are on guard, rifle in 
 hand, on the walls. We are told the Porta Angelica is not 
 far off. Our hearts were full of gratitude for the privilege 
 so signally accorded us of being able to join our comrades 
 before the assault. We arrive at the gate, and show our 
 passports to the officer on guard. We enter Rome ! Evviva 
 il Papa Be ! 
 
 " Once inside the walls I hasten to deliver the despatches, 
 the one to Cardinal Antonelli, at the Vatican, and the others 
 I place in the hands of Colonel Allet, at the head-quarters 
 
268 Tioo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 of the Zouaves, on the Pincio. Our brave old commander 
 welcomed us back to the corps with all that kindness of 
 manner which has so endeared him to the hearts of the 
 Zouaves. As no news had reached the city for several days, 
 we reported the affair at Civita Vecchia, the advance of 
 Bixio's army, and the certainty of an attack on Rome next 
 morning. Enrolled once more in the Zouaves, and attached 
 to the company of Captain D'Arcy, who won his spurs at 
 Castel Fidardo, where General Lamoriciere, in admiration of 
 his heroic valour, called him Le Brave D'Arcy, we quickly 
 got into uniform, and drove to the Gate of St. John Lateran. 
 At the front everywhere we were greeted by some old 
 comrades, but especially by my friend the Chevalier Lynch, 
 a crusader for the third time, he having served in 1860 
 and 1867. 
 
 " Owing to the continuous movement of detachments dur- 
 ing the night from post to post along the walls, fourteen miles 
 in circuit, we were unable to join our own company until 
 the morning. 
 
 " The attack, as we expected, commenced at five o'clock, 
 and lasted until half-past ten. For ^yq hours a storm 
 of shot and shell raged against the Eternal City, girt around 
 by a circle of fire, and assailed by 65,000 Piedmontese. 
 Bixio thundered at the Porta San Pancrazio, while Angio- 
 letti menaced the gate of St. John Lateran, Cosnez the Porta 
 San Lorenzo, Ferrero appeared before the Porta San Paolo, 
 Masi threatened the Porta del Popolo, and Cadorna in person 
 took up position before Porta Pia. Not content with attack- 
 ing the defenders on the walls, the enemy in many instances 
 threw the shells over ouf heads into the town, causing con- 
 siderable damage at every explosion. 
 
 " Our artillery vigorously responded at all points, while 
 each time the Piedmontese Bersaglieri — our boasted rivals — 
 attempted to break cover and dash into the open, they were 
 swept down by the ceaseless discharge from the Remington 
 rifles of the Zouaves. 
 
 " By this time many beautiful villas near the walls were 
 complete wrecks, and fires broke out in various parts of the 
 
Two Years in tJie Pontifical Zouaves. 269 
 
 city ; yet the cannonade only grew the more fast and furious. 
 At length Cadorna succeeded in making a breach in the 
 wall near the Porta Pia, which was held with a desperate 
 resistance by Captain De la Hoyde and the Zouaves under 
 his command. At this juncture Colonel de Charette, with 
 strong detachments, was huiTying to the breach, when a 
 white flag was raised, and General Zappi rode up to him 
 with peremptory orders to cease fighting and stop the rush 
 of the Zouaves. 
 
 " To this Colonel de Charette demurred, until he was satis- 
 fied it was by the express command of the Pope." 
 
 This writer confirms the statement here brought forward 
 by two others, that the Piedmontese seized the opportunity 
 afibrded them by the armistice to enter the city at the 
 breach while the capitulation was being arranged. 
 
 The next two chapters — one of which relates to the 
 events of September, 1870 — have been kindly furnished by 
 an intimate friend and comrade of mine. He took part in 
 the late defence of Rome. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 THE SIEGE FROM ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW — FAREWELL OF 
 THE ZOUAVES TO THE HOLY FATHER — THEIR RETURN 
 HOME — ITALIAN SOLDIERS AT GENOA. 
 
 On Monday, September lOtli, 1870, many rumours were rife 
 in Rome of menacing dangers, of the advent of Garibaldi, 
 and, still worse, of the invasion of the then still remaininsr 
 dominions of the Pope by the armies of Victor Emanuel. 
 The events which were rapidly succeeding each other in 
 France gave much appearance of truth to the latter report, 
 which was confirmed by the coming to Rome of the Envoy 
 of the Robber King, who had this same day asked the con- 
 sent of the Holy Father to the entry of the Italian troops 
 into the city, on the absurd pretext of maintaining order, 
 which had never been disturbed. 
 
 Yet with all these tales of iU omen circulating throuirh 
 the city, and fresh from his interview with the messenger 
 of the Italian Bandit, Pius the Ninth never for a moment 
 hesitated about fulfilling his intention of blessing the 
 waters of the Aqua Pia, the large foun^tain of which 
 was this day to play for the first time in front of the rail- 
 way station. Along with a Zouave friend I walked up to 
 the large square before the railway station, and got there 
 j ust as His Holiness drove up. He was received by the 
 assembled crowd, composed entirely of Romans, with the 
 greatest enthusiasm ; but one fact struck us much, — the 
 entire absence of military (save those on duty), who were 
 wont usually to come in crowds to spectacles of this kind. 
 But their absence only proved how real was the love of the 
 Romans for their Pontiflf-king. General Kanzler, com- 
 mander-in-chief, and a few other officers were in imme- 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 271 
 
 diate attendance on the Pope, and after these and a few of 
 the Roman nobility and dignitaries, and officials of the 
 Waterworks had, after the blessing of the water, paid their 
 homage to the Holy Father, the latter returned amid loud 
 cheering to the Vatican. 
 
 As we were leisurely returning towards the centre of the 
 town, we saw no soldiers in the streets, and so we at once 
 went to our quarters to discover the cause of this unusual 
 fact. There we found nearly all the men under arms, while 
 some had already been sent to the walls and gates to aid in 
 putting them in a state of defence. A telegram had just 
 been received from a frontier town, saying that the Italian 
 troops, in spite of all law, without a single reason or just 
 pretext, had already dared to begin their sacrilegious march 
 against the Eternal City. 
 
 Next day every military preparation possible was com- 
 plete. The troops were all at their allotted posts ; artillery 
 bristled at the gates and along the old and almost useless 
 walls ; the ambulances were prepared, while from all the 
 many hospitals of Rome floated the black flag, denoting to 
 the enemy the places where the sick were. 
 
 My company and four other companies of Zouaves, some 
 of the French Antibes Legion, a battery of artillery, a 
 squadron of dragoons, and some foot and horse gendarmes, 
 were posted in the Piazza Colonna, as also many ambulance 
 waggons, bearing the cross of the Geneva Convention. Our 
 duty was to maintain order in the centre of the town, and 
 to act as a reserve to the troops at the walls. The former 
 duty was light, thanks to the good sense of the Romans, 
 who, although many agents of the secret societies were 
 urging them to revolt, remained perfectly quiet, and many 
 even gallantly enrolled themselves in the Urban Guard, 
 whose members any soldier would be proud to own as com- 
 rades in arms. They, like ourselves, debarred from fighting 
 the enemy, nobly exerted themselves in the dull but im- 
 portant duty of patrolling the city, thus grandly showing 
 themselves to be at once brave soldiers, true citizens, and! 
 loyal subjects. 
 
272 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 We slept on straw under the colonnades of the Piazza, 
 where we were kept till Monday, the 19th. Owing to the 
 residence of the Commandant de Place and of the Director 
 of Police being near it, this Piazza was a point of gi'eat 
 interest and excitement during this time, aides-de-camp and 
 orderlies arriving each instant with information of the 
 enemy's movements and doings, who, it seemed to us, were 
 a long time in commencing: the attack. But here it was as 
 always, " conscience making cowards " of them, and they 
 were striving hard, by many wily schemes and offers, to 
 obtain a peaceful entrance. In vain. Their messengers 
 were foiled in all their attempts to gain this, and on Mon- 
 day we heard the first cannon fired at 5 a.m., in the direc- 
 tion of the Pincio. 
 
 About ten o'clock we received orders to proceed to the 
 Lateran Gate, in front of which the enemy was erecting 
 batteries. From there a lieutenant with twenty men, myself 
 among the number, were sent to the convent at Santa 
 Croce, where, along with some gendarmes and squadriglieri, 
 we were posted along the old wall near there. A fire of 
 musketry was kept up along parts of the walls between our 
 men and some Italians who were prowling around, examin- 
 ing the weak points of the walls. A few cannon shot were 
 fired, and a successful one was aimed from a nine pounder 
 near where we were. A house outside the walls had been 
 occupied by about two hundred Bersaglieri, and it was 
 deemed necessary to dislodge them therefrom, as it com- 
 manded an extensive view of the walls and of the position 
 of the troops stationed near the three-arched gate of the 
 railway. Accordingly this cannon, loaded with grape, was 
 discharged at this house ; a yell arose from within it, the 
 walls were riddled with shot, and a moment after not a 
 man of the enemy was visible within the house. 
 
 Some Italian line soldiers from a vineyard near the walls 
 exchanged a few shots with some of our little detachment, 
 but our men dislodged them without loss to ourselves. An 
 artilleryman serving the cannon mentioned above had a bullet 
 pass through his forage cap without doing him any injury. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 273 
 
 A skirmish took place near us, at the Porta Maggiore, in 
 which a few of our Zouaves were wounded. At night all 
 was quiet, save an occasional rifle shot fired by some of the 
 advanced posts. 
 
 It fell to my duty to visit our sentiuels posted along the 
 walls, and as I walked along them I could see the enemy's 
 camp fires burning for miles, I may say, around, and I could 
 distinctly hear bugle calls. 
 
 As I was speaking to one of the sentries, some kind indi- 
 vidual from without, attracted by the light of a torch which 
 we had with us, sent a bullet whistling over us, to remind 
 us of our rash exposure of ourselves. 
 
 At midnight, the Squadriglieri having relieved us, we 
 retired to rest on some straw strewn along the large corri- 
 dors of the Convent of Santa Croce. But as " weariness can 
 snore upon the flint," so I enjoyed a sound sleep, from which 
 I was awaked about 5 a.m. by a horrid whizzing noise, which 
 in some dreamy, hazy way, I fancied was an express train 
 rushing past the spot where we lay. But a fellow Zouave 
 soon ended my delusion by shaking me, while he exclaimed, 
 " Still asleep, come, the bombardment has begun." And so 
 indeed it had. 
 
 The roar of the cannon was now incessant, and looking 
 towards the interior of the city, we saw many little white 
 puffs of smoke and jets of flame shoot up, denoting where 
 a shell had fallen. On going up on the walls, I could per- 
 ceive two batteries, one near the Cemetery of St. Lorenzo, 
 and one in front of the Lateran Gate. 
 
 The former was pounding away with great skill and 
 energy, and with considerable effect at the weak Railway 
 Gate, whUe the second, with less true aim, was striving to 
 destroy the Lateran Gate. "We could see the shells bound- 
 ing along the Lateran road, and an osteria or inn outside 
 the Gate was soon destroyed, but as yet the Gate itself was 
 unharmed, and two of our guns placed near it were doing 
 considerable damage to the enemy, and a thick black smoke 
 was seen to rise from a farm-house near their battery, set 
 on fire by our shells, which was said to be occupied by 
 
 18 
 
274 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 some of the Italian Staff. Although the enemy's fire was 
 well-directed on the whole, many of their shells fell wide of 
 or beyond their mark, as, for instance, several shells from the 
 St. Lorenzo battery fell within a short distance of us, in the 
 garden where we were posted, and two burst on the roof of 
 Santa Croce, doing no material harm beyond sending a few 
 tiles flying over our heads, and enveloping us in a cloud 
 of dust. 
 
 As far as I could judge, many shells, supposed to be 
 directed against the Lateran Gate, were purposely aimed 
 with a high elevation, in order to fall, as they did, into the 
 centre of the city, among the non-combatants, there to pro- 
 duce a moral Bismarkian effect. 
 
 The firing all round the city was kept up with great 
 energy on both sides till near ten o'clock, when along the 
 walls the bugle-call Cessez le feu sounded, and to our 
 grief we beheld the white flag flying from different parts of 
 the walls. Bat we could not realize that the struggle was 
 over; some more sanguine ones even imagined that the 
 enemy, tired of fighting, wished again to parley with us. 
 But all our hopes either of fighting on, or of having brought 
 the enemy to such terms, were ended by the coming of our 
 lieutenant, who told us that orders had been given to agree 
 on terms of capitulation, and soon after we beheld the flag 
 of Italy, still bearing on it the cross of Savoy, as if in 
 mockery of the king who had sold his birthright, planted 
 in front of the now burning Lateran Gate. 
 
 It is not my purpose here to discuss our chances of ulti- 
 mate success against a well-equipped army, which, on the 
 testimony of an Italian officer, consisted of more than 
 50,000 men, we being only about 12,000 men of all arms. 
 Suffice it to say that the Holy Father could not have 
 exacted a more trying sacrifice from his soldiers, than by 
 thus requiring of them the yielding up of their arms 
 almost without a struggle. 
 
 Here let me record an example of that contempt which 
 throughout the whole of their unjust proceedings, the 
 Italian authorities showed for the usages of civilized warfare. 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 275 
 
 It has always been held dishonourable, while a flag of truce 
 is flying, and terms of suirender are being discussed, to 
 advance to the attack of a city, yet this the Italians did, 
 for we, who were stationed, as I before said, near the church 
 of Santa Croce, saw a train, bearing two Italian flags, come 
 up almost to the ruined gate of the Railway, filled with 
 troops, evidently with the view of assaulting the same gate 
 should terms not be agreed on, while we could distinctly 
 see also numbers of troops massing on the roads leading in 
 the direction of the same gate. Is such a movement of 
 troops under such circumstances, and for such a purpose, 
 lawful, and in accordance with the customs of war ? 
 
 About two o'clock in the afternoon orders came for us to 
 retire from our positions to the Piazza of St. Peter's, where 
 we found the majority of our little army gathered together. 
 On our way thither, we passed through large crowds of 
 anxious-faced Romans, but all, without exception, were 
 well-conducted and respectful in their demeanour to- 
 wards us. 
 
 We passed the night in the Piazza of St. Peter's, its 
 paving stones for a bed, and our knapsacks for pillows. All 
 Rome, except the Leonine city and the Castle of St. Angelo, 
 was occupied by the Italians. When morning came our 
 officers informed us of the terms of the capitulation, and 
 conveyed to us the thanks of the Holy Father for our 
 services, and the praise of our general for our conduct 
 during the time we had been under his command. Our pay 
 was given us, up even to this day. 
 
 Some English Zouaves and myself then went to a caf^ to 
 obtain a little refreshment, which we much needed. While 
 there our brave Lieutenant-Colonel de Charette entered, 
 and we asked him to do us, some of his English Zouaves, 
 the honour of taking something with us. Having been 
 served, he told us he had always been well pleased with his 
 brave English Zouaves, and with tears in his eyes, he 
 added: — "Three times have I fought in the cause of the 
 Pope, the first time at Castelfidardo and Ancona, where I 
 was made prisoner ; the second time I fought victoriously 
 
 18—2 
 
276 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 at Mentana, and now, the third time, his Holiness wills us 
 to throw down our arms ;" but brightening up, he continued, 
 '* Mes enfants, may we again meet for the same cause, under 
 happier circumstances, but while my sword is no longer 
 required here, I go to use it against my country's enemies." 
 So saying, he shook each of us by the hand and left us. 
 Before the siege began, he distinguished himself by the 
 skill and daring with which he made a forced march from 
 Yiterbo to Rome, getting there without any loss, in spite of 
 the Italian General Bixio^s endeavours with a superior force 
 to intercept him. 
 
 About mid-day the bugles called us to arms for the last 
 time. The troops were all drawn in the large square of St. 
 Peter's, preparing to march out, when at a window of the 
 Vatican, to our great joy and consolation, we beheld our 
 beloved Holy Father. At the same instant, our noble Colonel 
 Allet, thirty-five years a soldier of the Pope, drawing his 
 sword, cried in a loud voice, " Mes enfants ! Vive Pie Neuf I 
 There arose from the whole army such a shout as perhaps 
 has never, nor ever will again be heard. It came from the 
 hearts of all who were there. At that moment, all our 
 different nationalities, all our different feelings, all we had 
 endured, even the great sacrifice we were making in thus 
 laying down our arms at the Pope's command without a 
 fight, all for the moment were forgotten at the sight of his 
 venerable person. Our only desire was to strive with our 
 tongues to express to him our love towards him, and our 
 devotion to his cause. Long the cheering continued, the 
 bands playing " Viva Pio Nono r Then a moment we were 
 silent as we presented arms and knelt to receive his blessing. 
 Ere we stood up again, he was gone, seen alas ! by many of 
 us, for the last time. Never shall I forget this parting 
 scene, and I would it had continued longer, for such a 
 "parting is such sweet sorrow." 
 
 Silently and with heads bowed down, and heavy hearts, 
 we quitted the city we had fondly hoped to hold against all 
 enemies, leaving him whom we loved a prisoner of the 
 basest and most treacherous of foes. As we defiGled among 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 277 
 
 the troops awaiting on the Piazza their turns to leave, I 
 noticed many young men, manly young fellows, weeping 
 like children, and many an old veteran, bearing on his 
 breast the medals for the African, Crimean, Italian or Danish 
 and Austrian campaigns, furtively wiping away the tear 
 that stole unbidden down his bronzed and weather-beaten 
 face. 
 
 We left Rome by the Porta Angelica, marching round the 
 back of the Vatican to the Gate of St. Pancras. And here 
 let me thank for her kind prayer some, to me unknown, 
 English lady, who, standing near the Porta Cavallegieri as 
 we passed it, exclaimed in heartfelt accents '* Poor fellows ! 
 May heaven preserve them !" At St. Pancras Gate we 
 found the Italian troops of different arms drawn up along 
 the road, their Generals on horseback near the gate, along 
 with our three Generals on foot. We marched past with 
 fixed bayonets, our bugles sounding, our officers saluting 
 our own Generals as we passed them, the Italian troops 
 presenting arms, and their bands playing while we defiled 
 past them. I heard not a single insulting or rude remark 
 from any of the Italian soldiers, but on the contrary an 
 Italian captain exclaimed as we j)assed, " What fine young 
 men !" and many seemed surprised at our discipline and 
 military bearing, the poor feUows having been taught to 
 believe that Papal Zouave was another term for an assassin. 
 We threw down our arms in a large field near the Pamphili 
 Gardens, and then set out on our march to Ponte Galera, a 
 railway station eight miles off. We had our knapsacks, 
 great coats, and other private j^roperty we had about us, 
 left us, and we were allowed to march without any regard 
 to rank or order, along the road. The heat being very 
 severe, the little and partial rest that we had lately had, an 
 insufficiency of food, and the cheerless position of prisoners 
 of war, rendered this march, though short, still very trying. 
 At Ponte Galera, being arranged by regiments, we awaited 
 the arrival of trains to convey us to Civita Vecchia. At 
 length our turn came to start, just as it became dark. We 
 were crammed into railway carriages, fourteen men or more 
 
278 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 into one compartment, but in spite of want of space, I had 
 a most refreshing sleep on the way. On waking I found 
 we had got to our journey's end, where, till near eleven 
 p.m., we were kept waiting in the station, while the different 
 nationalities composing our regiment were separated and 
 marched off to different quarters. While here we suffered 
 much from thirst and cold, for September nights in Italy 
 are often damp and chilly, and we were thirsty from our 
 hot dusty march, and from the closeness of the railway cars 
 into which we w^ere packed. Thanks to a Dutch fellow 
 Zouave, I was enabled partially to quench my thirst with a 
 few drops of lemonade he had, by some means or other, 
 obtained from the huffet of the station. But many were 
 bitterly complaining of thirst, and the Italian authorities 
 did not deem it necessary for us even to see a drop of water 
 till next day. At length we English, along with some of 
 the Dutch and Swiss Zouaves, were marched off to the 
 Bagni, or conv^ict establishment outside the town, where we 
 lodged in the large rooms used by the convicts for sleeping 
 in. But of the latter there were none, and on asking an 
 Italian soldier where they were, he answered, " Freed and 
 gone to Rome." Such were the men who had come to 
 regenerate and liberate the City of the Popes from their 
 tyranny, and to restore order therein ! And, be it clearly 
 understood, these men were no political prisoners, but men 
 convicted of forgeries, murders, and such like crimes. 
 
 Till next day we were shut in, 250 men in one room, 
 sleeping on straw strewn on the stone floor, but it was not 
 till mid-day that we each received a small loaf, a couple of 
 ounces of cheese, and a thimbleful of rum. Till then we 
 were kept without food, though a few among us, through 
 the kindness of the soldiers, not of the authorities, were 
 enabled to buy from them a few grapes and apples, some 
 bread and wine. Almost all the private soldiers of the 
 Italian army, as far as it lay in their power, treated us with 
 the greatest good feeling and kindness. Not so those in 
 power. Water was not supplied to us until after the cheese 
 and bread had been served out, and then in such a small 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 279 
 
 quantity that some did not get any. At five in the evening 
 we were allowed out for half an hour into a small yard to 
 breathe a little fresh air. While here a few of our officers 
 were allowed to come and see us. 
 
 At about eight in the evening we were marched down to 
 the port, where we were embarked on board barges, into 
 which we were so closely packed that their gunwales were 
 almost flush with the water. 
 
 In these noyade-like boats we were taken off to the screw 
 steamer, Liguria, which sailed for Genoa at 10 p.m. Al- 
 though a small vessel, 750 men were stowed away in her. 
 The hold was filled, the cabins crowded, and locomotion on 
 deck was simply impossible, owing to the numbers of men 
 lying there ; even the sailors had the greatest difficulty in 
 doing their work. I thought myself lucky in getting a 
 place to lie down on, on the quarter-deck, thus avoiding the 
 intolerable closeness down between decks. I fancy few 
 slavers were ever more heavily freighted with himian beings 
 than this good ship. Providentially we had fine weather, 
 and a calm sea. During the time we were on board we 
 were given only two meals of maccaroni soup with a little 
 meat in it, with a small allowance of wine each. It was 
 served out in large tins, each containing portions for twenty 
 men, and the confusion and trouble to get even this was 
 immense, owing to the overcrowded state of the vessel, and 
 as for getting to the water-butts to get a drink, it was first, 
 a matter of skill to steer thither without treading some one 
 to death, and then a fight to keep your turn for drinking 
 when you got there. All that night in the cold, and all 
 next day in the heat of a broiling sun we lay cooped up, 
 some below, some on deck lying close one to another, like 
 fish packed in wooden boxes for the London market. At 
 dusk we entered the port of Genoa, and a barge having been 
 brousrht alongside of us, those below rushed on deck think- 
 ing we were about to land, but it being too late for landing, 
 the barge sheered off, and we were doomed to pass another 
 night on board, our discomfort being increased by those who 
 had come up on deck remaining there, and we slept so 
 
280 Tiuo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 crowded together, that where I was, we were sleeping, or 
 rather longing to sleep, one on the top of another. I never 
 had, and hope never to pass again such a night, for when 
 the morning came, I scarce knew if I had a bone left 
 unbroken in my body, and the cold and damp mist of the 
 harbour had quite benumbed us. At daybreak we landed, 
 and each of us having been given an eating tin, a spoon, 
 and a small blanket, we were formed by fours and marched 
 through Genoa about four miles uphill, and inland to a Fort 
 Montirati. While passing through the outskirts of Genoa, 
 we were kindly allowed by the officer in charge of us, to 
 enter some of the shops and buy wine and bread and such- 
 like things. The people of this part of Genoa were most 
 kind, in some cases even refusing payment for what we 
 took. I drank in one shop some country wine, for which 
 the goodman of the shop refused my money, saying, " his 
 wine was for the Pope !" And many more instances could I 
 tell, of how these poor people strove to show their love for 
 Pio Nono, by kindness to his captive soldiers. On our way 
 through the town we were greatl}^ pleased to see again our 
 energetic and indefatigable chaplain, Monsignor Stonor, and 
 
 to speak to his useful assistant Mr. T , who told us how 
 
 the former had followed us from Rome to Civita Vecchia, 
 and on here, and he promised that our return to old England 
 would be speedy. 
 
 As usual we slept on straw, at the fort, having made our- 
 selves some soup from meat and rice, and bread supplied us 
 by the Italian authorities. Early next morning, Sunday, 
 before daybreak, all the English were assembled together 
 and marched back to Genoa, to the large barracks of St. 
 Benigno, near the port. While we passed through the town 
 we were much stared at, but though many people were 
 about in the streets, we received no insults, more than from 
 one man, who asked " Where we had left the Pope 1" In 
 many places about the town large placards were posted up 
 with " Yiva Roma, the capital of Italy," printed in large 
 letters on them. 
 
 In these barracks we were quartered till the 1st of Octo- 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 281 
 
 ber, sleeping as usual on straw, but being allowed to go 
 where we liked in the barracks, receiving the same food as 
 the Italians, as also the same daily pay, and being allowed 
 free use of two really excellent cantines. Our Chaplain was 
 untiring in his efforts in supplying us with all necessaries, 
 such as clothes, boots, and such-like things, while at the 
 same time he had chartered a large screw steamer to convey 
 us home. 
 
 The poor Italian soldiers envied us our lot. Most of 
 them were married men, called out in consequence of late 
 events, and they almost all declared, that had they been sent 
 against Rome they would not have fired a shot. They are 
 badly fed ; a mess of maccaroni or vegetables in the morning, 
 a small piece of meat and some soup with maccaroni in the 
 evening, a loaf of bread every other day, and an occasional 
 small quantity of wine, or coffee, make up their bill of fare. 
 
 Their pay is five centimes a day. On Sundays they are 
 purposely kept working till late in the day to prevent their 
 going to church, no military Mass ever being said for them. 
 To be known as a religious man is a bar to all promotion, 
 and thus most of their officers are men without any religion, 
 and whose conversation is too disgusting for a gentleman, 
 let alone a Christian, to take part in. But this order of 
 things has only been in force since the usurpations of Victor 
 Emmanuel commenced, and thus some of the officers who 
 had entered the army before them are of a much better 
 kind. The poor privates were mostly good men, forced into 
 the life by the odious conscription. They did all that lay 
 in their power to make us comfortable, offering to mend our 
 clothes and shoes for us, and even to share their beds with 
 us. At night it was our custom to recite aloud in English 
 our prayers together. The first night we noticed one Italian 
 soldier quietly enter our room, and kneel in an out-of-the- 
 way corner, next night there were several, and each succes- 
 sive night more. Poor feUows, they could not pray in their 
 barrack-rooms, and came thus amongst us, although they 
 understood not our language, to unite with us in doing, 
 what to them was, I may say, an impossible and forbidden 
 
282 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 thing. What a shame to call a kingdom Catholic, whose 
 soldiers are not allowed to practise even this much religion ! 
 In fact, our stay had quite made us brothers to these Italian 
 soldiers. 
 
 The 1st of October we embarked on board the India for 
 Liverpool, after a sorrowful parting with the good-hearted 
 Italian soldiers, among whom our coming had entirely dis- 
 pelled the notions so earnestly inculcated by the Italian 
 government and the Times, that all Papal Zouaves were 
 bloodthirsty brigands and ferocious mercenaries. 
 
CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 VISITORS TO ROME — A SAD INCIDENT — ORGANIZATION AND 
 
 DISCIPLINE. 
 
 From Christmas till the end of the Carnival, and again 
 during Eastertide, Rome is inundated with floods of visitors. 
 All nations are represented, but the most numerous are the 
 Americans and English, who come in such numbers that one 
 is almost inclined to believe that the possession of the 
 Eternal City has passed into the hands of the Anglo-Saxon 
 race. 
 
 I think we should not be very well pleased if our members 
 of parliament were not better representatives of their consti- 
 tuencies than some of our English travellers are of the British 
 nation. Many, nay the maj ority of our travelling compatriots^ 
 are an honour to the nation to which they belong, and are 
 the cause of Englishmen being loved and respected among 
 many foreigners. But alas, there is a minority, and not I 
 fear a very small one, who bring their fellow-countrymen 
 into contempt and even hatred. The short transit across 
 the ' narrow seas,' besides deranmnfj the inner man, seems 
 also to turn their heads. 
 
 From quiet, order-loving, respectable citizens, they, on 
 landing at Ostend or Calais, become insolent, unmannerly, 
 gaping rovers. Every Frenchman to them is a poor, half- 
 starved wretch, to be treated more like a dog than a Chris- 
 tian. Every shopkeeper, or hotel- waiter is to understand 
 at once their loud-roared incomprehensible jargon, under 
 pain of entering Dante's Inferno. Churches were built for 
 them to walk about in with creaking boots, and in family 
 
284 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 parties of ten or twelve, or as places where they may rest 
 and regale themselves on ham-sandwiches and sherry, as I 
 myself have seen done in Rome. But the list of their vul- 
 garities might be prolonged ad infinitum. Happily they 
 who act thus are comparatively few, but yet enough in num- 
 ber to make Englishmen disliked abroad. 
 
 Many too, of our compatriots have queer habits and do 
 eccentric things. An Englishman's " tub " is a foreigner's 
 wonder, although some of our French friends, in their imi- 
 tation of our customs, have also adopted it. In Rome, in 
 consequence of the reckless way a Briton too often exposes 
 himself to the dangers of the climate, there is a saying, 
 ^'That none but Englishmen and mad dogs walk in the 
 sun." The former also do not pay sufficient attention to ac- 
 quiring, before they leave home, even a knowledge of the 
 rudiments of the language and outline of the manners of 
 the people among whom they are about to go. I remember 
 one evening walking near the church of the Gesu, being 
 accosted by one, wlio, although trying to disguise it, was 
 evidently a minister of the Church by law established 
 in England. "Zouave," said he, in unmistakably Anglo- 
 French, "quelle est la chemin pour le CorsoT At once 
 guessing his nationality, I answered, " Oh, the way to the 
 Corso, is that it V I hope I did the man no permanent 
 harm, but for a moment he was struck dumb and breathless. 
 Could it be, an Englishman in the livery of a Papal hire- 
 ling ? Oh no ! " You are an Irishman, doubtless ?" he said, 
 slightly recovering from his first shock. " No," I answered, 
 " every inch an Englishman." But the good man seemed to 
 doubt my word, and after thanking me for showing him his 
 way, left me with a most bewildered and puzzled expression 
 of countenance. 
 
 Some of our High Church friends abroad join as if they 
 were Catholics in all the devotions and practices of the Holy 
 Roman Church, but some of the Low Church party go to 
 an opposite extreme, to show their dislike to us. A friend 
 of mine, being in the Sistine Chapel, when the Pope was 
 carrying in procession the Blessed Sacrament, happened to 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 285 
 
 be behind an Englishman of the bigoted type, who, when 
 all were kneeling refused to do likewise. Whereon my 
 friend behind him gently pulled the tailcoat of him, who, 
 amid the bending crowd, remained erect. Of course, my 
 friend did not expect him to kneel to the Sacred Host, but 
 only wished him to pay that homage, which all men of all 
 creeds could without scruple, pay to the Pope as King. 
 Our stubborn countrjonan, feeling the pressure exerted on 
 his garments, turned round to my friend, and in a solemn 
 and severe way, remarked, "Render to Caesar the things 
 that are Caesar's." "Just so, it is all I desire," replied my 
 friend, delighted at his opponent's apt quotation. 
 
 Oftentimes those who have little acquaintance with the 
 language, are placed in awkward positions. We all know 
 the tale of the Englishman, who leaving a ball, having been 
 courteously helped by a foreign gentleman to put on his 
 coat, handed him a franc, which being indignantly refused, 
 thought " garsoon " wanted more, and tendered him a larger 
 sum. A friend told me that one bright moonlight night, 
 being desirous of visiting the Colosseum, and not having the 
 proper pass for entering, asked the sergeant of Zouaves on 
 guard to allow him in, which he did, and after seeing the 
 ruins, on going away, my friend offered the Sergeant a small 
 gratuity. To the confusion of my friend, the Sergeant, 
 drawing himself up proudly, said: — " Monsieur ^ je vous 
 remercie, mais je suis sergent aux Zouaves Pontificaux" 
 My friend erred through ignorance, and often afterwards 
 laughed over the adventure with a member of one of the 
 noblest French families, the Zouave sergeant of my tale. 
 
 A few weeks before the seizure of Rome by the Italians, 
 a sad event occurred, of which the blame, if blame there 
 was, many journals wished to throw on the Zouaves. I was 
 walking past the church of St. Andrea della Valle with 
 another English Zouave corporal, when a Dragoon officer 
 came riding along the street, and told us in a hurried way, 
 to hasten to the Campo dei Fiori, as firing and a disturbance 
 of some kind was going on there. On coming there, we 
 saw some one firing from an upper window of the Dutch 
 
286 Tvjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 Zouaves' Club, which stands at one end of the Piazza. On 
 our way here we passed two poor men wounded in the legs, 
 being helped along by some Zouaves, At first we thought 
 an emeute had broken out. The shops in the neighbourhood 
 were closed, and the square of the Campo del Fiori was 
 deserted, and shots were being fired from different quarters 
 up at the before-mentioned window. Running up to the 
 gateway of the Dutch Club, and getting under it, to shelter 
 ourselves from the bullets that were rapidly being shot from 
 the window above us, we learnt that the cause of all the 
 disturbance was a poor maniac. In a short time the adju- 
 tant of the Third Battalion, M. de Pavi, came up with a 
 small force of armed Zouaves, and mounting the stairs, broke 
 open the door, and disabled with a revolver-shot the mad- 
 man who was preparing to fire at him. The maniac was a 
 Dutchman who had come from Holland to join the Zouaves, 
 but, on account of his evident insaneness, he was rejected 
 by our Doctors, and subsequently having evinced dangerous 
 symptoms, was remxOved to the Lunatic Asylum of Santo 
 Spirito Hospital. After having been kept here sometime, he 
 was, by order of the authorities of the asylum, liberated. 
 Being a Dutchman, he was permitted by those in charge of 
 the Dutch Club, to frequent it during the time while he was 
 awaiting his return home, and it was during this time that 
 he found his way into a room where some rifles of the em- 
 ployes of the club were kept, and providing himself with 
 two weapons and eighty rounds of ammunition, he placed 
 himself in a room alone, locked the door, and opened fire on 
 all passers by, thus wounding two men and a woman and 
 child, and a Zouave, the latter dangerously. A Zouave 
 corporal, Brandler by name, of my company, had his trou- 
 sers pierced by a bullet close to his knee, which made a 
 black graze along his drawers without actually wounding 
 him. The whole blame of the affair rests with the authori- 
 ties of the Lunatic Asylum, one of whom, was, I believe, 
 dismissed on account of this affair. 
 
 The lunatic did not, at any time, belong to the corps of 
 Zouaves, and he fired indiscriminately on civilian and 
 
Txvo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 287 
 
 Zouaves alike. But notwithstanding this, as the affair had 
 taken place at one of the Zouave clubs, a handsome collec- 
 tion was made of 1500 francs, to aid those civilians who 
 had suffered by this lamentable occurrence. 
 
 It may be interesting here to give a brief outline of the 
 composition, organization, promotion and discipline of the 
 corps. On New Year's day, 1870, the Papal Zouaves formed 
 a regiment of four battalions, of six companies each, and of 
 a Depot Battalion of four companies, together with a com- 
 pany called La compagnie hors range, composed of officers' 
 servants, of the tailors, shoemakers, and armourers, and of 
 the bandsmen and Sapeiirs of the regiment. 
 
 The numerical strength of the different companies varied 
 much, and as new recruits arrived, and old soldiers left, the 
 same company would vary much in its strength at different 
 periods. About one hundred men was the supposed com- 
 plement of men to each company, but often it was but sixty 
 or even less, while occasionally the numbers increased im- 
 mensely. At the time of the taking of Rome by Victor 
 Emmanuel's troops, the 5th company, 3rd battalion, num- 
 bered nearly 150 men.- I should, therefore, think, about 
 the beginning of 1870, the corps numbered about 3500 men 
 in all. Of these the most numerous were the Dutch, then 
 the French, and after these the Belgians, Canadians, English 
 and Irish, Swiss, Germans, and Italians. Spain, Portugal, and 
 many other nations sent their representatives, including 
 three or four blacks, and one Chinese. 
 
 As all the orders and words of command were in French, 
 the majority of the officers were French. 
 
 The supreme command of the regiment was vested in the 
 Colonel, M. Allot, a native of Switzerland. Next to him 
 was M. de Charette, the Lieutenant-Colonel. 
 
 Each battalion was under the command of a Commandant, 
 and each had a Captain-Adjutant-Major, nearly correspond- 
 ing to the Adjutant in the English army, and an Adjutant 
 corresponding to an English Sergeant-Major, and who, like 
 the latter, carrying a sword, and wearing a uniform very 
 
288 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 like an officer's, yet only ranked as a sous-offiycier, or non- 
 commissioned officer. 
 
 Each company had three officers, a Captain, a Lieutenant, 
 and a sub-Lieutenant. Under these were the Sergeant- 
 Major, the Sergeant-Fourrier, an assistant to the Sergeant- 
 Major, four common Sergeants, and one Sergeant du Tir, to 
 look after the rifles and ammunition of the company. Also, 
 there were eight full Corporals, and a certain number of 
 '' fonctionnaires " or lance-Corporals. One Corporal, or fonc* 
 tionnaire, was always named " cajporal d'ordinaire," and 
 his duty was to superintend the ^buying of meat, &c., and 
 the cooking of the food for each company. 
 
 The men of the band were under the immediate super- 
 vision of a Chef de Musique,. with the rank of Lieutenant, 
 Sbnd Si sous-Chef de Musique, along with a Sergeant-Major^ 
 Sergeants, and Corporals of the band. 
 
 The payment of the soldiers was managed thus. — Le 
 Capitaine Tresorier, a Captain especially appointed for the 
 purpose, aided by his staff" of clerks, composed of a sub- 
 Lieutenant, two Sergeants, four Corporals, and some privates, 
 received the money from the Intendant of the Division, 
 This, every five days, was given out to each Sergeant-Major,. 
 who in turn divided it among the Corporals of his company, 
 who in their turn paid it to the men of their squads. 
 
 The ordinary pay of the private soldier was three sous 
 per diem, which, by good and steady conduct could be 
 increased to six sous per diem, and be further increased by 
 promotion. 
 
 Discipline was of course carried out by the officers, ser- 
 geants, and corporals ; the right of inflicting punishments 
 being invested in each proportionately to rank. Thus, a 
 Corporal could inflict a punishment of two days in the salle 
 de police, or four days' confinement to barracks, while the 
 Colonel could award fifteen days' imprisonment or the same 
 number of days in the salle de jyolice. Trivial oflTences and 
 breaches of discipline were punished by corvees, i.e., fatigue 
 duties, or by punishment drill. Greater offences, such as 
 coming late to the ajpi^el or roll-call at night were punish- 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 289 
 
 able by confinement in the salle de police. The difference 
 between salle de police and prison has been explained in 
 Chapter V. 
 
 But in cases of great and serious crimes, the accused was 
 brought before either a Council of War, or a Council of 
 Discipline, both corresponding to our Courts-Martial. The 
 first-named was presided over by a Chef de Bataillon, or 
 Commandant, and was composed of a Captain, a Lieutenant, 
 and a sub-Lieutenant, and if the prisoner was a private, or 
 of other grade, by one other member, his equal in grade. 
 The case was got up and stated by the Capitaiiie Auditeur, 
 an officer who had especially studied the law, and who a<jted 
 as a kind of prosecutor, assisted by a Sergent-Aiiditevbr. 
 The prisoner could choose his own defender, either a civil 
 lawyer or often a clever comrade, to make out his defence. 
 This Council could inflict the highest penalties, such as 
 death or dismissal, or life imprisonment. It sent its finding 
 for approval to the Minister-at-Arms, along with any 
 remark the Regimental Colonel might see fit to make. The 
 Council of Discipline was formed much in the same way, 
 but could only award short terms of military imprisonment, 
 or not more than six months' service in the Conipagnie de 
 Discipline, (including men of bad conduct, who were sent 
 there to be reformed), and were kept under control by the 
 severest discipline, each breach of which rendered the 
 ofiender liable to another month's service in the company. 
 
 Perhaps one of the most sad and solemn sights I witnessed 
 during my Zouave life, was the canying out of the sentence 
 of a Conseil de Guerre. I have often seen them carried out 
 in the barrack square on more ordinary offenders, but on 
 this occasion which I am about to describe, the execution 
 militaire, as it is termed, was more than usually impressive. 
 The prisoner was a young man, descended from a good old 
 Legitimist French family, and had served some time in the 
 Papal Zouaves, and had risen to the rank of Sergeant- 
 Major. But, unfortunately^ before he had long occupied 
 this somewhat responsible position, he became acquainted 
 with some young men of fast and expensive habits, and 
 
 11) 
 
290 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 unable to do all they did with the little money he had of 
 his own, he had borrowed some more from the public money 
 that passed through his hands, intending to pay it back as 
 soon as his own money should come to him from France. 
 But he failed in doing so ; the money he had taken had to 
 be accounted for, and nothing but disgrace and punishment 
 was left him to look to. So he deserted, but was arrested 
 near the frontier by some Gendarmes, one of whom he 
 severely injured in endeavouring to escape from them. 
 Brought back to Rome, a conseil cle guerre found him guilty, 
 and sentenced him to death ! 
 
 An early summer's sun was gilding with its morning rays 
 the many domes of the Eternal City, and its brilliant light had 
 awakened nature from her sleep, the hum of men setting about 
 their daily toil is heard in the city, and the voices of the 
 feathered songsters singing their morning prayer to their 
 Creator make the gardens of the city thrill with their merry 
 notes. But in the courtyard of the Castle of St. Angelo, 
 under the dark shadow cast by Hadrian's tomb, and amid 
 the damp mists from the river, which the sun's rays are not 
 as yet strong enough to dispel, there resounds the tramp of 
 armed men and the clashing of arms. The words of com- 
 mand are given in a quick, audible, yet low tone of voice, 
 and the gathering soldiers quickly array themselves around 
 the courtyard in a hollow square. Detachments of all the 
 regiments of the Papal army are there. Dragoons with 
 their long sabres and short carbines, and burnished helmets, 
 o'ertopped with horsehair, form one side of the square, along 
 with some Gendarmes with cocked hats and white crossbelts, 
 all dismounted. Red- trousered men of the line, dapper 
 little Chasseurs, broad-shouldered Swiss Carbineers, and 
 grey-clad white-gaitered Zouaves compose the other three 
 sides. 
 
 A small part of one side of the square falls back, and 
 leaves an opening as the bugles commanding attention 
 break the death-like silence that reigns. The officers stand 
 out in front of the men, who face inwards, the Colonel and 
 some superior officers stand together at one end of the in- 
 
Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 291 
 
 side of the square, the buglers of the assembled troops 
 facing them at the other end. Then through the opening, 
 escorted by a half-dozen Zouaves with fixed bayonets, the 
 condemned man is led in, looking pale and abashed, dressed 
 in a black suit of civilian clothing, with his military cap 
 and great coat over them. Then, standing between his 
 guards, facing the Colonel, with uncovered head he listens 
 to the reading of the sentence, which the Captain Auditeur 
 reads aloud. Stating his crimes — and after saying that the 
 Council of War finding them proven, condemns him to the 
 last penalty of the law, death — the sentence goes on to 
 say : — " Whereas, the Court, taking into consideration ex- 
 tenuating circumstances, recommends the prisoner to mercy, 
 wherefore the Minister at Arms annuls the first sentence, 
 and condemns the prisoner to degradation of rank, expulsion 
 from the Corps of Zouaves, and awards him five years of 
 hard labour in the galleys." The whole is signed and 
 approved of by the Minister at Arms, the Colonel, and 
 members of the Court. An Adjutant then walks up to 
 the prisoner, pulls ofi" the regimental buttons of his great 
 coat, strips him of it, and gives him a gentle blow with the 
 butt of his gun, to denote his expulsion from the Corps. 
 The prisoner is then marched past the assembled troops, 
 while tlie buglers march behind him playing a quick march ; 
 having made the circuit of the square, he is then handed 
 over to the civil authorities. The prisoner, a tall handsome 
 youth, seemed to feel his situation deeply while the sentence 
 was being read, but while being marched past his comrades 
 was in a kind of stupor, walking along mechanically, but 
 when this was over, and the Gendarmes came to take him 
 in charge, as one of them took his hands and adjusted the 
 handcuffs to his wrists, at the touch of the iron he started, 
 blushed deeply, and wept bitterly. The dread reality of his 
 position was now fully realized. 
 
 Promotion in the corps was by selection, and all were 
 obliged to enter as privates. From private to Corporal and 
 then to the rank of Sergeant and Sergeant-major, candidates 
 were chosen by the Captain, their names sent in, along with 
 
 19—2 
 
292 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 their qualifications, to the Colonel, who took the names of 
 those he thought most capable, and gave them the coveted 
 grade. For promotion to the rank of sub-Lieutenant and 
 higher, the names were sent in by the Colonel to the Minis- 
 ter-at-Arms, who presented those names he selected to the 
 approval of His Holiness, who signed their commissions. 
 
 Of course slight favouritism occurred occasionally, but as 
 a general rule, the promotions were most fair. A capable, 
 intelligent, and well-conducted soldier was sure of promo- 
 tion up to the rank of Sergeant-major quick enough, but, on 
 account of the few vacancies, promotion to the rank of 
 officer was slow. 
 
CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 THE USURPATION — THE POPE A PRISONER — FRANCE — 
 LIBERTY, EQUALITY, FRATERNITY — CONSOLATION — 
 HEROISM — CONCLUSION. 
 
 Eternal Rome ! thou city of the great, 
 
 jEterna Urbs ! I raise my soul to thee ! 
 Thy silent voice and high historic fate 
 
 Have charm'd my mind as sweetest melody. 
 
 Blest home, and centre of the Christian fold, 
 
 Thy highest destiny hath won my heart; 
 "What grief now fills my soul as I behold 
 
 Injustice reign, thy glory all depart ! 
 
 But this shall never last ; as one who runs 
 
 May read, in lessons oft repeated, past ; 
 St. Peter's bark a mightier storm outliv'd. 
 
 And outlives still, though troubles thicken fast : 
 Great Pius will the bark in safety guide. 
 And conq'ring all, to port will swiftly ride. 
 
 The events related in connection with the Zouaves, in the 
 last chapter but one, referred to their return to their respec- 
 tive homes, in consequence of the surrender of the garrison 
 of Rome to the superior force of Victor Emmanuel. 
 
 This forcible usurpation of the remaining States of the 
 Church was the commencement of another series of rob- 
 beries and sacrileges which the Catholic Church and the 
 Supreme Pontiff have had to experience at the hands of 
 that misguided and unhappy monarch. As a consequence 
 of that act of spoliation the Holy Father is vu-tually a 
 subject and prisoner in his palace, the Religious Orders are 
 
294} Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves, 
 
 being deprived of tlieir monasteries and convents, the city 
 of Rome has been, filled with escaped convicts and assassins, 
 so as to make it unsafe at times to walk through its streets ; 
 and lastly Victor Emmanuel has not improved the condition 
 of Italy by his yielding to the party of action, or rather in 
 anticipating that party in their designs on the Eternal City. 
 In fact, since the occupation Rome has occasioned the greatest 
 trouble to the Italian Government. Witness the stormy 
 debates in the Italian Chamber on the " Transfer of the 
 Capital," and the stupid imposture of the " Guarantees." 
 The revolutionary party is not satisfied ; the secret societies 
 have not yet attained their ends, i.e., the overthrow of the 
 kingdom of Italy, and the establishment of that universal 
 republic whose delights and blessings the reds and Com- 
 munists of Paris have lately exhibited to the world ; and 
 while the bankrupt kingdom seems likely to come to an 
 untimely end, in the mean time the Romans behold the 
 prospect of vastly increased taxation, the detested conscrip- 
 tion, and the probability of a decreased trade consequent 
 on the absence of the usual number of visitors from aU parts 
 of the world. 
 
 As regards the statement of the Pope being virtually 
 a prisoner, the following extracts from the Unitd Cattolica 
 may be cited in proof of it : — • 
 
 " Vincent Gioberti called Pio Nono a prisoner when he 
 was at Gaeta, the guest of the King of Naples, who treated 
 him with all the aff'ection of a most devoted son. Here are 
 the words of Gioberti, ' The Neapolitan sojourn was "a fatal 
 slavery." ' Now if the Pope were declared a prisoner because 
 he was a guest of the King of Naples, and the ' Septembrists ' 
 themselves, such as Lanza, Mamiani, &;c., said then that he 
 was ' under the pressure ' of the Bourbon, who can imagine 
 for a moment that he enjoys liberty to-day or independence 
 of any sort under the command of Bixio and Cadoma ? 
 
 We know too well how all the conquests of the 
 
 Italian States commenced with the imprisonment of bishops. 
 In Tuscany they imprisoned Cardinal Corsi, Archbishop of 
 
Two Tears in the Pontifical Zouaves. 295 
 
 Pisa; in Bologna, Monsignor Canzi; in Imola, Cardinal 
 
 Baluffi ; at Milan, Monsignor Caccia ; at Piacenza, 
 
 Monsignor Kanza ; at Benevento they maltreated Cardinal 
 
 Kiario Sforza, &c., &c Who can blame us, then 
 
 for being in the greatest anxiety about our Holy Father, 
 Pius the Ninth ? 
 
 " ' Dogs,' say we to the ministers of Italy, ' what have you 
 done with your Father and ours ?' " 
 
 Another reason why the Pope is not perfectly free, is that 
 in his communications with the Catholic Episcopate of the 
 world he is subject to the control of the Italian authorities 
 of the Roman post, and his letters and documents are liable 
 to be intercepted at any moment. 
 
 Many persons visiting the Holy Father, or known for 
 their fidelity to him, have been, since the occupation, sub- 
 jected to insult, interruption, and annoyance in their passage 
 through the streets of Rome. 
 
 But the most conclusive proof of the fetters imposed upon 
 him was furnished in the seizure by the Italian government 
 of every Italian journal which published the Encyclical 
 Letter of the Holy Father on the usurpation of Rome, dated 
 November 1st, 1870, for while these very papers cited the 
 fact of their publishing this document of the Pope as a 
 proof that all his acts were free, the ground was immediately 
 <}ut from under their feet, and the fallacy of their argument 
 displayed by the confiscation of every one of the journals 
 which had dared to print it. 
 
 Thus is brought home to us the fact that, although as 
 yet the personal liberty of the Pope has not been actually 
 interfered with, yet he does not enjoy that entire freedom 
 of word, and act, and communication which belonged to him 
 as a Sovereign, and which is requisite to his dignity and 
 authority as Supreme Head of the Catholic Church, com- 
 prising two hundred millions of Christians. 
 
 Some of the greatest Protestant statesmen of the age, 
 and particularly M. Thiers and M. Guizot, have strongly 
 advocated the proposition that the Sovereign Pontiff must 
 
296 Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 always he perfectly free and independent of every other 
 authority. 
 
 If the present sad state of Rome and Italy is such as to 
 cause the gravest apprehensions in the mind of every well- 
 wisher to the cause of religion and good government, that 
 of Paris has lately presented a sadder aspect still. Here 
 we behold the horrors and crimes of the Reipii of Terror 
 repeated, — generals and peaceful citizens murdered in cold 
 blood, and shot down by armed mobs,— the archbishop and 
 his priests imprisoned and assassinated, — the ministers of 
 religion denied access to the unhappy prisoners, — churches 
 closed by order of the " Commune," — the name of God 
 ignored and denied. 
 
 Here we see the red republican doctrines of liberty^ 
 equality, and fraternity interpreted by its professors, 
 the Socialists, Communists, and Franc-macons, and other 
 secret societies, who have inaugurated the late terrible 
 civil war. 
 
 Amidst so much that we see to cause us the saddest re- 
 flections, we may still glean some elements of consolation 
 in the great movement of sympathy with the wrongs of our 
 Holy Father the Pope, which has set in amongst the Catho- 
 lics all over the world, and which has been expressed in 
 mass meetings in America, in Ireland, in England, in Bel- 
 gium, and in Germany, as well as in the numerous addressee 
 laid at the foot of the Pope from the inhabitants of so 
 many countries, including even the small island of Malta. 
 Another element of consolation comes to us from the courage 
 and patriotism which have been so signally displayed by 
 the French Pontifical Zouaves during the late unfortunate 
 French war, and which proves that bravery and love of 
 country still animate one part at least of the army of that 
 fair France now so much prostrated. The recital of the 
 heroic deeds of General de Charette and his brave followers 
 will, I think, form an appropriate conclusion to this work — 
 already perhaps too long. Mr. George Goldie writes as 
 follows to the Tablet of December 24th. — " Whatever may 
 be the sympathies- of your readers .... they will not 
 
Tvjo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 297 
 
 refuse their generous admiration for the Christian chivalry 
 of the Pontifical Zouaves. The incidents I have endea- 
 voured to string together below are all derived from authen- 
 tic sources. 
 
 " On reaching France after the capitulation of Rome, the 
 ex-Pontifical Zouaves first assembled at Tarascon, and from 
 thence were ordered to Le Mans to complete their military 
 organizatidn under their Colonel, M. de Charette. 
 
 " Nearly all the officers and sous-officiers were there 
 assembled, and numerous volunteers of the most Catholic 
 and noble families, side by side with the humble but devoted 
 peasantry of Brittany, Anjou, &c., flocked beneath the ban- 
 ner of this Christian legion. . . . But meanwhile the older 
 soldiers were sent forward to the seat of war, and as early as 
 the 11th or 12th of October, those companies were already en- 
 gaged in active operations, and it was, thanks mainly to this 
 handful of men, who for seven hours held the Prussians in 
 check at the entrance to Orleans, that General de la Motte- 
 rouge was enabled to withdraw the main body of his army. 
 The most exaggerated accounts of the losses of the ex-Pon- 
 tifical Zouaves were circulated both by the French and 
 English journals ; happily, however", only fifteen were killed 
 and wounded .... Every time they have since appeared in 
 the field, has only confirmed and increased their renown and 
 glory." The writer then relates several other details, and 
 describes the heroic devotion of the Zouaves at Patay near 
 Orleans — a former battle-field, the scene of one of the 
 victories of Jeanne d'Arc — where they threw themselves 
 between their retreating countrymen and the advancing 
 Prussians, leaving the field strewn with their glorious slain. 
 " The affair took place on Friday, the 2nd of December — I 
 quote from the letter of one of the Zouaves to his father, 
 dated the 6th of December: — 'I promised you some details 
 of the sad but glorious day of Friday ; sad, because it wit- 
 nessed some of the purest blood of France poured out ; 
 glorious, because it proved to our country that there are yet 
 amongst her children those who are ready to sacrifice them- 
 selves to save her honour. General de Sonis had assumed 
 
298 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 tlie command of the I7tli corjps d'arin^e, of whicli we formed 
 a portion. An intimate friend of our Colonel, M. de Cha- 
 rette — whose bravery, piety, and true nobility of sentiment 
 he shares — it was under his command that we attacked 
 Brou, which was first entered by my battalion led by Cha- 
 rette. On reaching the village the General and Colonel 
 threw themselves into each other's arms in the presence of 
 their men. But the affection and esteem of General de 
 Sonis for our corps did not stop there. He reserved to us 
 the honour to serve as an example to all the army, to offer 
 to France and the enemy the spectacle of devotion to our 
 cause, and that bravery through which God has so often 
 given success to our arms.' It was under a white banner, 
 bearing on one side the Sacred Heart with the legend, Sacre 
 Coeur de Jesus, sauvez la France, and, on the reverse, Saint 
 Martin, patron de la France, priez pour nous ! that the 
 Zouaves marched to battle. ' On Friday, we reached the 
 little village of Patay at an early hour, where we expected 
 to pass the day. The cannon growled at a distance of three 
 or four leagues, but, as we formed the reserve of the corps 
 d'arm^e which was engaged, we had little idea that the 
 hour of sacrifice was at hand for us. The General and the 
 Colonel had both approached Holy Communion in the 
 morning. About mid-day we received orders to be in readi- 
 ness. It was rumoured that De Sonis wished to make a 
 reconnaissance in the direction of the battle that was going 
 on, but so little did we expect to be engaged, that those who 
 were fatigued by the constant marches of the previous days, 
 remained in camp, and were not ordered to raise the tents. 
 Our second battalion followed us at a considerable interval, 
 and was thus prevented from sharing in the action. The 
 cannonade appeared to be drawing near us, and the General, 
 believing that our presence might prove opportune, led us 
 towards the left flank of the troops already in action. 
 Eanged in line, we were exposed to the fire of several bat- 
 teries — the object of which appeared to be to turn our flank 
 — without our being able to use our weapons. The shells 
 falling in our ranks killed and wounded about a dozen of 
 
Tivo Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 299 
 
 our men. Suddenly, Colonel de Sonis galloped along our line, 
 and pulling up beside our Colonel, cried out to us, Mes amis, 
 je compte sur vans ! Our only response was a simultaneous 
 shout of Vive le G^n^ral, repeated again and again; joy 
 shone in every eye, and the presence of danger made way 
 to the keen desire to prove ourselves worthy of the noble 
 task confided to us. In an instant we were ready, and with 
 fixed bayonets we advanced at the double towards a little 
 plantation which crowned a height, and was occupied by 
 1500 Bavarians ; 350 Zouaves advanced, the General with 
 his staff" leading, with De Charette at his side, and behind 
 them the Baron de Troussures at the head of his battalion.' 
 
 " It was a splendid sight to see these young men advancing 
 as if on parade, ranged in a line with their flag, without 
 deigning to answer by a shot the murderous fire of the 
 enemy. There first fell Lieutenant de Boischevalier, Major 
 de Bourget, and Sergeants de Villemarais and de Vougu^. 
 The advanced line was so shattered that it was in vain the 
 ranks were closed up, the fallen could not be replaced ! The 
 Bavarians seemed at this moment to be seized with amaze- 
 ment, possibly by a sentiment of admiration, they remained 
 stupefied by such audacity, and fired at random or ceased 
 firing altogether. Just as the Zouaves entered the wood. 
 Colonel de Charette feU, his horse being shot, but quick as 
 lightning he disengaged himself, and ran as fast as he could 
 to General de Sonis, who still charged at our head, and dis- 
 appeared in the smoke. As soon as the enemy felt the 
 points of the bayonets, they fled in utter confusion. Carried 
 on by their ardour, the Zouaves passed through tlie wood in 
 pursuit ; unhappily they were alone, their leaders had fallen, 
 and there was no one to check the pursuit when the end 
 and object of the combat had been gained. On the opposite 
 side of the hill, the wooded crest of which was now occupied 
 by the victorious Zouaves, extended another wood, beyond 
 a plain, and beyond that a fortified and loopholed village, 
 occupied by the enemy in force. It was in following the 
 fugitive Germans across this plain, that the mere handful of 
 Zouaves were exposed to a terrible reprisal, for sixty out of the 
 
300 Two Years in the Pontifical Zouaves. 
 
 350 alone regained their camp ! But the retreat was worthy 
 of the attack. Slowly — with a sang-froid worthy of the 
 veteran troops, under a hail of bullets, shells and shot, dis- 
 puting every inch of ground till they reached the cover of 
 the wood they should never have left, the Zouaves withdrew, 
 and thence in good order, and together, the glorious frag- 
 ment reached their camp. 
 
 " Alas ! the glory of the fight had been dearly bought. 
 M. de Vertanon had left his ritle to carry the flag ; he fell 
 dead at the verge of the little wood. M. de Traversay, 
 sergeant-major, was on his left, and M. Jacques de Bouille at 
 his right. A ball struck down M. de Traversay as he was 
 about to catch up and bear forward the fallen flag. M. 
 Jacques de Bouille seized the glorious emblem, which served 
 as a target to the enemy, and waving it over his head, he 
 rushed with a loud hurrah into the wood, which was swept 
 by the Zoaaves. Beyond the wood this young and generous 
 volunteer — who had left his young wife, his two children, 
 and his life of ease and luxury, to take his place as a simple 
 soldier amongst the Zouaves, was shot dead, and a young 
 Zouave, whose name has unfortunately not been recorded, 
 had the honour of bearing back the flag of the battalion 
 intact to the camp. M. le Marquis de Bouille (father of the 
 young man named above, and who, at an age when men 
 may fairly rest, Jiad brought his fifty-five years to serve as a 
 volunteer, giving up a life of splendid ease and ample wealth 
 for his country's cause,) was also wounded, and a late report 
 states he is since dead. His son-in-law, M. de Casenove, 
 had his wrist broken. M. Ferdinand de Charette, brother 
 of the Colonel, was shot in the arm. M. Herve de Kersa- 
 biec was taken prisoner. MM. de la Brosse, de Bois-chevalier, 
 de Maquille, de Sievre, de la Touche, and many others, 
 equally distinguished by birth and gallantry, were grievously 
 wounded. 
 
 "The General de Sonis was captured by the Prussians, 
 lying helpless from his wound, beside his dead charger. It 
 has been said that, touched by his chivalric bearing and 
 Christian fortitude, the Prussian officer in command gave 
 
T\uo Years in the Pontijical Zouaves. 301 
 
 him his liberty, and restored him to his wife and family of 
 nine children. Of M. de Charette, the most painfully con- 
 tradictory rumours are afloat. He was wounded in the 
 thigh, and with a devotion worthy of his character, he for- 
 bade his soldiers to expose themselves by carrying him 
 off the field. Since, it has been stated that he was a 
 prisoner, but there seems good reason to hope he has escaped 
 from the hands of the Prussians, and is at Poitiers." (The 
 event proved that the brave Zouave Colonel did escape from 
 the Prussians ; he recovered quickly from his wound. His 
 services to his country were subsequently recognized by the 
 Government of the day, and he was raised to the rank of 
 General.) 
 
 The recital of these acts of self-sacrifice and heroism 
 afibrd some ground for consolation in the present critical 
 position of France, and of the Holy See ; for certainly we 
 may entertain some hope that the country which produces 
 men so truly devoted and heroic, contains in itself the germs 
 of a new and vigorous life, which, now that the fruits of 
 infidelity and atheism have exhibited their innate decay and 
 corruption, will shout forth and become once more the legi- 
 timate pride of France, whose King may yet make repara- 
 tion for the crimes of the Secret Sects against God, the 
 Blessed Sacrament, and our Blessed Lady, by showing him- 
 self to be, as of old, the Eldest Son of the Church. 
 
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