BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. BY MARSHALL N. GOOLD, M.A. Glasgow : Published by Wm. St. Clair Wilson, 126 Renfield Street. 1913. Stack CONTENTS. PAGE. General Hints for a Trip to Europe, . . .11 Setting Out, ...... 16 Section I. Tours in Scotland (Norway), England (Germany), France, Switzerland, Italy (Greece), . . . . .19 Section II. Tours in Italy, Greece (Palestine), and Egypt, . . 69 Section III. "Around the World in Eighty Days," . 87 Section IV. The Highway Round the World, . 97 United States Customs, ..... 139 Passports, . . . . . . .151 Books of Interest to Travellers, . . . 153 The Traveller's Book of Days, . . . .157 Tables, . . . . . . .165 5002135 lOOTOOG PREFACE. THIS handbook is not intended to compete in any way with existing guide-books. Its scope is entirely different. It has been compiled to satisfy the need, felt by everyone embarking on foreign travel, of a compendium of information, dealing in a single volume with all countries likely to be visited, and a detailed estimate of probable expenses. It is intended to make the way clear to many who desire to travel, but fear they may not be able to afford it. The broadening and educational influence of travel is incalculable. President Eliot, of Harvard, once expressed grave doubt whether a college course or a course of world-travel is of the greater value. Our grandfathers considered it a tremen- dous experience to make even the " grand tour " of Europe, and a girdle round the world was only for a man of great daring and fabulous wealth. 6 PREFACE. Now one can travel extensively for little more than it costs to spend a few weeks at the coast during the summer vacation. A trip may be anything one chooses to make it an item of social routine, an attempt to escape ennui, an outlet for surplus fortune. I write for those to whom travel means much more, the great number who have more culture, perhaps, than money. To them it is an opportunity of getting the best return for a few hundred dollars that an intelligent and educated man could desire. Travellers who must economise are generally those who have a summer vacation college professors, students, school teachers, ministers, and business men who have earned a little freedom. They have, as a rule, the months of July and August at their disposal. They want to see the greatest foreign cities, famous cathedrals, the masterpieces of the world in painting, sculpture, and architecture, splendid ruins, the landmarks of history, and some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. It is simply confusing to present to such as these long lists of tours in Wales and Devon, in Normandy and Brittany, in Sweden, Eussia, or PREFACE. 7 the Black Forest. London and Paris are more interesting and accessible than St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Vienna. More enjoyment can be purchased for $4 in the Trossachs than for $40 in the Western Highlands. One can travel much more cheaply and gain far more pleasure in Italy than in Turkey. In short, travel is one of the few spheres in which the things most worth while cost least. It is not so difficult, accordingly, as at first it would seem, to construct a handbook that will be useful to the vast majority of new travellers. The average man, who has little time on his hands and little money to spare, desires, above all things, when he thinks of travelling, to see London, Paris, Munich, the Scottish Trossachs and Norwegian Fjords, Italy, and, if possible, Greece. In later years, it may be, he will return to the country he finds most fascinating, and spend some months there learn its language and enter into the life of the people, set himself alongside its difficulties and study its problems ; but that is all outside the scope of this handbook. The first trip abroad should cover a number of countries rather than a single one. On subsequent trips more time can be devoted to detail. 8 PREFACE. My object has been to work out the minimum cost at which a trip may be made with perfect comfort. Luxuries may easily be added by those who can afford them. Every hotel and pension suggested is clean, comfortable, and thoroughly enjoyable, and I have recommended the more expensive places where they are likely to be most appreciated. All tables in the handbook are from long personal experience, and are reckoned on the supposition that two will travel together, sharing rooms, vehicles, and tips. A solitary tourist will find expenses somewhat greater; a larger party will be able to make better terms with hotel- keepers and guides. If the expenses quoted seem to some incredibly little, it must be remembered that living in Europe is much cheaper than in America. Excellent food and accommodation can be procured at from $1.25 to $2 per day. Hotels rise in price as you go farther East, but, on the other hand, the other expenses fall. The native waiters and sweepers in India, for example, are delighted with gratuities that seem to us absurdly small, and a rikisha can be hired for 10 cents where an American taxi PREFACE. 9 would cost S>2. Laundry-work is always cheap abroad, and railway fares are small. After all, the least enjoyable item in travelling is the inevitable worry experienced by the tourist in approaching an unknown port, or just after landing, "dazed and newly alone" what to do with the baggage, how to negotiate the Customs House, what hotel to choose, what it will cost, and how to get there, etc., etc. The object of this book is to link the ease and security of a personally-conducted tour with the freedom and economy of individual travel. Over and over again one hears the somewhat trite advice, " See America first." By all means, if possible, visit the Yosemite and Yellowstone, the Rockies and the Grand Canyon, Niagara, Pike's Peak, and the Garden of the Gods. Such places are unique and heart-stirring, but the financial side of it is startling. Here are some figures : New York to Los Angeles . . 3579.75 5 days. Pullman berth (upper) . . . 15.20 Food on train . . . . 10.00 Tips (Pullman porter and waiters) . 1.50 Trip to Yosemite (minimum) . . 49.00 4 days. Tips 1.50 10 PREFACE. Los Angeles to New York . . 79.75 5 days. Pullman berth (upper) . f . 15.20 Food on train . . . 10.00 Tips 1.50 Total (First class) . . $263.40 1 for 14 (Tourist class) . . 221.20 j days. For less than that you can have a vacation of seven weeks, visiting the Scottish Trossachs, Burns Country, Edinburgh, the English Lakes, Shakes- peare Country, and London. GENERAL HINTS FOR A TRIP TO EUROPE. Booking; Passage. AFTER YOU HAVE PLANNED OUT YOUR TRIP IN ITS ENTIRETY, HAVE YOUR AMERICAN STEAMSHIP-AGENT PROCURE ALL YOUR TICKETS FOR LAND AND SEA AS LONG BEFORE YOUR DATE OF DEPARTURE AS POSSIBLE. YOU WILL SAVE MONEY AND BE SURE OF A RETURN BERTH. The best opportunity for economical and comfortable ocean crossing is offered by the Allan Line in their one-class cabin service from Boston. This service gives no such luxuries as gymnasiums, swimming- pools, palm-gardens, and Ritz-Carlton restaurants at sea, but otherwise is little different from the saloon service on more pretentious ships. The traveller pays second cabin rates, but is treated as a saloon passenger. Again, if you choose a line like the Lloyd-Sabaudo to Italy, you can travel saloon for little more than the second cabin rates of the more famous lines. To the experienced traveller there is no more wanton extravagance than first class railway travel in Europe. Third class compartments are excellent North of London, and second class all over Europe South of London. 12 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Baggage. However little baggage you may take, you will invariably find that much of it is unnecessary. For a summer in Europe a kit-bag and suit-case are quite sufficient. In any case, it is best to have nothing but conveniently portable packages. In Europe, passengers take with them into the railway compartment packages which, in America, would be placed in the bagga.ge car. All such are free. In Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, no baggage what- ever is carried free in the baggage car, and charges on a trunk are apt to become a serious item before the end of a tour. Clothes. One suit of clothes is sufficient. Evening dress is not necessary at sea or in the more moderate European hotels. A sweater is often serviceable. Don't overburden yourself with linen and under- wear. You will find laundries wherever you go. A travelling rug is sometimes desirable at sea, but can always be hired on board. Take two pairs of shoes, a rainproof coat, and rubbers. Ladies will find a hood or motor-veil of great service at sea in breezy weather. Never take clothes that will be damaged by a little spindrift. Books should not be carried. All liners and most European hotels have large and well-chosen libraries. Modern novels, too, may be bought almost anywhere in the English Sixpenny and Continental Tauchnitz editions. HINTS FOR A TRIP TO EUROPE. 13 In the various towns visited, small concise guide- books may be bought. Unless an extended tour is taken over a country, it is needless to buy the expensive standard guide-book, of which the greater part will never be read. Medicines are not necessary. Every ship carries a surgeon and dispensary, and on land the average tourist will never be out of reach of drug-stores. Money. If all money could be carried in English gold nothing would be lost in exchange from one country to another. Letters of Credit are very handy, but rather expensive, as most banks issue them on the basis of $5 for a sovereign. The best and most economical method of carrying money is by Travellers' Checks, such as are issued by Cook and American Express. Passports are unnecessary, except for travellers visiting Russia or Turkey. Your letter of identification, issued with Letter of Credit or Travellers' Checks, is sufficient identification for all purposes. Tipping. The American tourist, on leaving port, must at once discard all American ideas of tipping. Where 25 cents are given here, 12 cents will suffice in England, and 6 cents in most other countries. Much indignation has been wasted over the tipping system abroad. I have never found so many demands in Europe as in America, and the amount expected is less than half. Hotels. Always write ahead to the manager of the next hotel at which you intend to stay, engaging 14 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. rooms and stating the price you are ready to pay. If you merely ask for rooms, the most expensive accom- modation in the hotel will be set apart. Anyone staying three or four days at a hotel can have what is called " pension rate." Foreign hotels derive a great part of their income from American tourists, and cater directly to their comfort. At almost every port and railway station you will find the uniformed hotel-porter, with the name of his hotel writ large across his cap, waiting to take charge of your baggage and conduct you to the hotel 'bus or automobile. The head porter, or concierge, who invariably talks English, is always ready to look up time-tables, suggest cars, procure theatre tickets, make change, etc., etc. English is spoken everywhere now, with more or less proficiency, on the usual tourist routes, and the English-speaking tourist seldom finds any difficulty in making himself understood. Commonsense is never more desirable than in travelling. Spend time over the sights that interest you personally, rather than over many things that the guide-book assures you must not be omitted. You may find much more of interest in the streets of a foreign city than in its temples, in its public gardens than in its museums. If you have seen all the famous statuary in London and Paris, Rome, Florence, and Athens, it is needless to take a long and comfortless journey to Olympia to see a single Hermes, however beautiful. HINTS FOR A TRIP TO EUROPE. 15 Furthermore, a great part of the interest of travel- ling is in the experience of the methods, manners, and food of the country. If you desire American food and methods in foreign lands, you will pay heavily for what you receive, and find it very disappointing in the end. Purchases. Before making extensive purchases abroad, a careful study of the chapter on U.S. Customs Examination (page 139) is advisable. However, the law allows $100 worth of personal effects, purchased abroad, to enter duty-free. A large part of the trip may be accomplished on the saving effected by such purchases. Addresses. If you are using Cook's Travellers' Checks, you are at liberty to have your mail addressed to Cook's Agency in any part of the world. Glasgow . 83 Buchanan Street. Edinburgh . 54 Princes Street. Newcastle . 2 Northumberland Street. Bergen . . Cook's Offices. Trondhjem . Cook's Offices. London . f Lugate Circus. 1 378 Strand, W.C. Paris . . 1 Place de 1'Opera. Munich . . 16 Promenadenplatz (Weltreisen) Lucerne . . Schwanenplatz. Milan . . 7 Via A. Manzoni. Genoa . . 17 Piazza della Meridiana, Via Venice . . Stefensplatz, 2. Florence . . 10 Via Tornabuoni. Rome . . Ib Piazza di Spagna. Naples . . Galleria Vittoria, Via Chiatamone. Athens . . Place de la Constitution. 16 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Alexandria . 2 Rue Porte Rosette. Jaffa . . German Colony . Jerusalem . David Street. Cairo . . Near Shepheard's Hotel. Port Said . Quai Francois Joseph. Colombo . Victoria Arcade, York Street. Bombay . . Cook's Building, Hornby Road. Calcutta . 2 Old Court House Street. Rangoon . 5 Phayre Street. Hong Kong . 16 Desvoeux Road. Shanghai . 2 Foochow Road. Yokohama . 32 Water Street. Inform your friends before you leave of the date up to which a letter may be mailed in U.S.A. to reach you at a certain address. Commissions. Beware of undertaking too many commissions for friends. The purchases are liable to take up more room than you can spare, and may cause trouble at the Customs examination. SETTING OUT. Embarkation. Your agent will notify you about the steamer's sailing hour. It is best to take your baggage with you in a conveyance to the wharf an hour before sailing. Stewards will be found waiting at the gangway to conduct you to your state-room. Places at Table are assigned differently on different lines. Sometimes the passenger simply leaves a visiting card where he desires to sit. In most vessels the Second Steward attends in the Saloon HINTS FOR A TRIP TO EUROPE. 17 immediately after the vessel leaves port to assign places, and the first applicants have first choice. If the vessel is so crowded that two sittings are necessary, most travellers evince a preference for the first, though as a rule there is nothing to choose between them. If you prefer a late breakfast choose the second sitting. A traveller prone to sea-sickness should take a place from which there is an easy exit. If the passenger, after reconnoitring the Saloon, finds any place more desirable than another, or wishes to be seated with a party, he will do well to visit the Chief Steward, find out how and where the seats are allotted, and shape his course accordingly. Places OH Deck. Find a good sheltered spot on deck amidships, and have the deck-steward place your steamer-chair there. It will be set in the same place each morning of the voyage. Steamer-Chairs can be hired on board, 75 cents each for the voyage. Baths. Ring for the bath-steward, and arrange at the outset your bath time for the voyage. Reservations are made by seniority of application, and the late applicant is apt to find himself obliged to rise some two hours before the breakfast hour. The Purser is head of the passenger department on board, and is able to assist you in many ways. Valuables should be handed over to the purser at the outset to be kept in the safe. Otherwise, the Companies take no responsibility for anything lost on board. B SECTION I. TOURS IN SCOTLAND (NORWAY), ENGLAND (GERMANY), FRANCE SWITZERLAND, ITALY (GREECE). 20 SECTION I. SCOTLAND. ARRIVAL is usually on Tuesday. All baggage will be taken out by the stewards to the Customs shed, and there examined. CUSTOMS examination is a mere formality. No written declaration is necessary, and the only question asked is regarding tobacco and spirits. The free allowance is ^ Ib. of tobacco or cigars and | pint of spirits to each passenger, if duly declared. CONVEYANCES wait just outside the shed, and there are porters who will carry a package from the shed to a vehicle for 3d. Cabs and taxis in Glasgow seat four persons, and have railed tops for baggage. Cab rate: Is. for first mile, and 6d. for each additional mile. Taximeters are set at 8d. for mile, and rise 2d. for each additional 400 yards. TROLLEY CARS of Glasgow are reputed the finest in the world. They are run by the Municipality regard- less of expense. Rates are d. per mile, Id. per 2| miles, l|d. per 3| miles ; and they are run to all parts of the town whether an individual line pays or not. Unlike American cars, they have seats on top, from which a fine view is commanded on the long runs into the surrounding country. SECTION I. 21 Travel Expenses. FARE. Boston to Glasgow via Moville. Allan Line One class cabin service . Steamer-chair . Share of tips ..... *Before arriving, purchase some British money from the Purser. Anchor Line. N.Y. to Glasgow. 1st 01. from $67.50. 2nd 01. from $47.50. GLASGOW, ARRAN, AND BURNS COUNTRY. Tuesday. On arrival : Porterage ...... Share in cab to Hotel Tramway Guide-book .... Visit George Square, Glasgow Green, Argyle Street. Wednesday Visit Buchanan Street, Sauchiehall Street, West End Park, University, Art Gallery (free). Cars *For those interested in shipping a ramble round the docks is always worth while. Thursday Cathedral (famed in " Rob Roy "), Rouken Glen. Cars Friday Laundry ..... 3 days at Armstrong's or Queen's Hotel . . Share of tips (chambermaid, waiter, porter) ...... Carryforward, Section Exps. B45.00 .75 2.00 .06 .24 .06 .08 .14 .75 6.00 .75 Total. S47.75 847,75 22 SECTION I. No advertisements are allowed on the cars; and, as destination and route are described in large print, it is easy for a stranger to find his way around. A good little illustrated Guide to Glasgow and Surroundings (price 3d.) may be purchased from any conductor. CURRENCY. The sovereign is worth $4.866, but in exhange always costs $4.90. Copper Farthing about $0.006 Halfpenny .01 Penny .02 Silver Threepence .06 Sixpence .12 Shilling .25 Florin .50 Half Crown .62 Four Shillings 1.00 ,, Crown 1.25 Gold Half Sovereign 2.45 Sovereign 4.90 Scotch banks issue notes of 1, 5, 10, and up; but, as these are heavily discounted in England, it is wise to keep to gold. Bank of England notes of 5, 10, 20, and up are accepted at face value all over British Isles. TYPICAL SCENKRY. On a first visit to Scotland it is needless to tour the Western Highlands and the far North. All the typical Scottish scenery, stream and SECTION I. Brought forward, *Leave any heavy baggage at hotel. Take circular ticket by G. & S.-W. rail and steamer St. Enoch Station to Greenock, Kyles of Bute, Arran, and return by Ardrossan 3rd. class and cabin ...... Lunch on board, and tip . *Spend Saturday, Sunday, and Monday morning exploring Glen Sannox, Glen Rosa, Corrie, Lamlash, and King's Cross. All are within easy walking distance. Monday 3 days at Brodick Hotel Share of tips ..... Leave by afternoon steamer, arriving Glasgow about 6 p.m. Tuesday 1 day at Hotel Excursion by rail, St. Enoch Station to Greenock, and G. & S.-W. steamer to Ayr Return fare, 3rd class and cabin ...... Lunch on board .... Drive to Burns Cottage and Monument *Send on any heavy baggage to Edinburgh. " Carted Luggage " Wednesday Start for Trossachs. 1 day at Hotel ..... Carry forward, Section Exps. L.10 .55 7.50 .75 2.00 1.00 .55 .50 .24 2.00 Total. $47.75 24.27 $72.02 24 SECTION I. glen and purple hills, is to be found in Arran. The island, which is easily reached from Glasgow, is of historic interest centered around Ossian and Robert the Bruce. CARTED LUGGAGE. The railway companies in Britain to some extent take the place of the American express companies. A trunk or hand-bag will be accepted at the hotel and delivered anywhere in Great Britain for Is. ROB ROY'S PRISON, a cave on the shore of Loch Lomond about half-way between Rowardennan and Inversnaid, is clearly visible from the steamer on a sail up the Loch. STIRLING CASTLE played an important part in Scottish history in the time of William Wallace. A stop-over of 2 or 3 hours may be made at Stirling. A wonderful view is obtained from the Castle walls. To the west are seen Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben Ledi, and Ben Voirlich ; to the north and east the Ochils and the windings of the Forth ; to the south the Campsies ; while in the foreground are Bridge of Allan, Abbey Craig, and Wallace Monument, Cambuskenneth Abbey, and the field of Bannockburn. CONVEYANCES in Edinburgh have the same rates as in Glasgow. CAULE CARS run to all parts of the city at fares from Id. to 5d. HYDROPATHIC INSTITUTIONS are very common in Scotland, England, and Wales, and may be interesting SECTION I. 25 Brought forward, TROSSACHS AND EDINBURGH. *Have your tourist ticket routed : " Via Trossachs, and (if continuing to Lon- don) Shakespeare Country." Glasgow to Edinburgh, via Trossachs : 3rd class 1st class, $5.25 Rail to Balloch (about 1 hour), steamer up Loch Lomond (about 1^ hours), Coach to Stronachlacher (1 hour), Steamer on Loch Katrine to Trossachs (^ hour), coach to Callendar, with stop at Trossachs Hotel for lunch (about 2 hours), rail to Stirling and Edinburgh. Lunch at Trossachs Hotel . Dinner at Stirling .... Arrive Edinburgh Wednesday evening. Crown Hotel, West Register Street, and Cockburn Hotel, Cockburn Street, are both close to Waverley Station. Handbook of Edinburgh . . Thursday Princes Street, Scott Monu- ment (admission to top 2d.), National Gallery (free), Castle (free) all with- in 10 minutes' walk . Friday Old Streets, Castle Hill, Lawn Market, High Street and Canongate, St. Giles' Cathedral (admission 3d.) . Carryforward, Section Exps. .10 .65 .65 .12 .04 .06 Total. $72.02 $72.02 26 SECTION I. to the visitor. Eates are from $2 to $2.50 per day, and the treatment is optional. Edinburgh Hydro- pathic is situated about 2| miles to S.W. of the city. ($2.05 per day.) GUIDES are unnecessary in Edinburgh, and small hand-books of the town may be bought for a few cents. MILITARY SERVICE is conducted in St. Giles on Sunday morning. NEWHAVEN. The picturesquely- clad fisher-folk of the village are of Scandinavian origin, and have preserved many of their ancient customs. (Peacock Inn is famous for fish dinners.) BEST GENERAL VIEWS of Edinburgh are obtained from the Castle, the Scott; Monument, and Arthur's Seat. RAILWAY CARRIAGES in Britain are clean and comfortable. They are divided into compartments of three classes, and all the longer runs are made by corridor trains with dining cars (lunch 2s. 6d., dinner 3s. 6d.). Third class in Scotland and North of England is used by all ranks of society ; 2nd class on the railways south of London. The tourist who travels with hand-baggage is well served in the railway stations of Britain. As soon as his conveyance reaches the station a uniformed porter gathers up his packages, directs him to the booking- office, and enquires about his destination. He need SECTION I. 27 Brought forward, City Cross, Parliament House, Tol- booth, Holyrood Palace (free), Arthur's Seat car back . Saturday By tram to quaint fishing village of Newhaven . Train from Waverley Station to Haw- thornden, and return by coach. Cir- cular ticket issued by railway com- pany ... Visit Hawthornden (admission Is.), Roslin Castle (admission 6d.), Roslin Chapel, with famous 'prentice pillar (admission Is.) . Sunday Dean Bridge and St. Mary's Cathedral cars . Botanic Gardens cars Monday Excursion to Forth Bridge, by steamboat from Leith, or rail from Waverley to Dalmeny Visit Dalmeny Park. Lunch .... Five days at Crown or Cockburn Hotel Share of tips Laundry .... *Send on any heavy baggage to London. " Carted Luggage " . Carry forward, Section Exps. .04 .10 .42 .62 .08 .06 .40 .55 10.00 1.00 .50 .24 Total. $72.02 28 SECTION I. take no further interest in his effects. When the train arrives his porter appears, finds him a seat, places his baggage in the racks, and accepts a tip of 2d. or 3d. with gratitude. For heavy baggage that requires a truck the usual fee is 6d. TRAVELLERS RETURNING DIRECT from Scotland to U.S.A. will have three days more at their disposal, as the steamer leaves Glasgow on Friday. A pleasant trip may be made to Portobello by tram- way (return fare 4d.). In a day one may visit Melrose Abbey (admission 6d.), Abbotsford, Sir Walter Scott's home (admission Is.), Dryburgh Abbey, where Scott is buried, and the valley of the Tweed. (Return fare 6s.) Other excursions are : Craigmillar Castle, 1| miles out of Edinburgh Rail from Duddingston Station. Corstorphine Rail from Waverley Station. (Return fare Is.) The Pentland Hills Rail from Waverley Station to Colinton. (Return fare Is.) SPECIALTIES OF SCOTLAND. Table linen, woollen goods, tweeds, tartans, gloves, amethysts, topaz, Cairngorms. SECTION I. 29 Brought forward, RETUKNING DIRECT TO U.S.A. Carried forward . $91.65 Three days extra in Edin- burgh . . . .6.00 Excursions . . .2.00 Rail, Edinburgh to Glas- gow .... 1.00 One day in hotel, Glasgow 2.00 Share of tips . . . .50 Share in cab to Dock . .25 Glasgow to Boston by Allan Line (less 5% on return) . . . 42.75 Share of tips . . .2.00 Steamer-chair . . . .75 ALMOST Six WEEKS for $148.90 Section Exps. Total. 891.65 $91.65 30 SECTION I. NORWAY. A delightful side trip, lasting 13 days, may be made from Newcastle by the steam-yachts of the Bergenske- Nordlandske Co. There is no better introduction to Norway than this sail up the fjords, with visits to Stavanger, Bergen, Odda, Eide, Noreimsund, Balholmen, Flaam, Gudvangen, Visnaes, Loen, Oie, Hellesylt, Merok, Naes, Molde, Kristiansund, and Trondhjem. A book of shore excursions is handed to each passenger on board, but the tourist who is prepared to hire his own stolkjaerre will get along just as comfortably at half the expense. I have quoted the price at which the independent traveller may make the trip, sharing vehicles with a friend. English is spoken in the shops and hotels ; and in the coast, towns the English-speaking traveller can easily make himself understood. Currency : Copper 5 Ore $0.013 Silver 10 .024 50 .125 1 Krone .25 2 Kroner .50 Gold 5 ,, 1.34 20 5.36 Gold is not much used. Notes of 5, 10, 50 Kroner, and up, are issued by the State, and are at par with gold. SECTION I. 31 Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. 891.65 Nc *S *F )EWAY. teamer sails from Newcastle Tuesday evening. Room and breakfast in Edin- burgh . . . 1.25 Edinburgh to Newcastle, 3rd class .... 2.55 Lunch on train . . . .65 Newcastle to Trondhjem, via the fjords, and return, 1st class, from . . . 50.00 Cook's handbook to Norway and Denmark . . . .36 Optional shore excursions : Bergen $1.00 Odda .75 Gudvangen 1.40 Loen 1.40 Oie . .75 Merok 2.00 Naes 1.00 Trondhjem 1.00 $9.30 Share of tips on board . 2.00 Porterage at Newcastle . .12 Lunch 65 EXTRA. FOR NORWEGIAN TRIP $57.58 roceed from Newcastle via Carlisle as follows : Carryforward, $91.65 32 SECTION I. Conveyances are the carriole (a two-wheeled vehicle for one passenger) and the stolkjaerre (for two passen- gers). The tariff is about 4 cents per kilometre for a carriole, and 6 cents per kilometre for a stolkjaerre. As a great number of interesting villages are visited, it is best to procure a copy of Cook's handbook. SPECIALTIES OF NORWAY. Furs, native embroideries and laces, wood-carvings, enamelled jewellery, and leather-work. CUSTOMS. There is no Customs examination for tourists to the fjords. ENGLAND. THE LAKE DISTRICT may be visited from Carlisle, but it is apt to be disappointing after the Trossachs. Students of ancient monuments can visit a Druidical Circle of 38 stones, situated on a command- ing height, a mile and a half from Keswick by the old Penrith Road. The Falls of Lodore are about three miles from Keswick. The drive from Keswick to Windermere yields views of Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite Lake, Thirl- mere, Grasmere, Rydal Water, and Windermere. Near Rydal Water the coach passes Nab Cottage, the old home of Hartley Coleridge and Thomas de Quincy, and Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth lived 37 years. In the churchyard of Grasmere village SECTION I. 33 Brought forward, SHAKESPEARE COUNTRY AND LONDON. Continued routing of tourist ticket from Edinburgh by L. & N.-W. Ry. to London via Carlisle, Chester, Stafford, Lichfield, Coventry, Kenilworth, War- wick, Leamington, and Rugby : 3rd class ....... 1st class $16.19 *Leave Monday night for Leamington. Hive of pillow ..... ENGLISH LAKES. *Leave Edinburgh Tuesday morning for Carlisle. Tuesday Room and breakfast in Edinburgh . . . 81.25 Lunch on train . . . .65 Carlisle to Keswick, 3rd class . 7 5 Visit Druid ical Circle and Falls of Lodore. *Spend night at George Hotel. Wednesday Room and break- fast 1.25 Coach to Grasmere, Amble- side, and Windermere . 1.60 Lunch and dinner . . 1.20 Windermere to Oxenholme, 3rd class .25 Less one day in Leamington EXTRA FOR TRIP TO ENGLISH LAKES 56.95 1.50 55.45 Carry forward, Section Exps. .54 .12 Total. $91.65 $91.65 34 SECTION I. are the graves of Wordsworth and his family, and of Hartley Coleridge. Near Ambleside is "the Knoll," where Harriet Martineau lived. The coach reaches Windermere in time for the train to Oxenholme, where the main line to Leaming- ton is re-joined. IN RESTAURANTS, <5d. is sufficient tip to the waiter for a meal for two ; in the more modest places 4d. or 3d. Many restaurants in England forbid gratuities altogether. THE SHAKESPEARE COUNTRY is best seen from Leamington. APARTMENTS. The expenses of a tour are always greatly reduced by taking apartments in private houses or " residential hotels," rather than the usual hotel accommodation. Leamington and London offer great facilities for such saving. Excellent pensions in Leamington are : Miss Stent's, 25 Learn Terrace, - 6s. per day. Mrs. Brown's, 29 Learn Terrace, - 6s. ,, ,, Students of English history will find the battlefields of Evesham, Tewkesbury, Bosworth, Naseby, and Edgehill all within easy reach of Leamington. NORTHAMPTON. American tourists will find Great Brington Church (5 miles out of town) interesting by reason of its brasses of the Washington family, which bear the origin of the " Stars and Stripes." LONDON HOTELS. The most suitable hotels for a SECTION I. 35 Brought forward, Tuesday Arrive Leamington, the centre of Shakespeare country. Electric car to Warwick (return fare 6d. ) Visit Castle (admission Is.) Wednesday Walk to Guy's Cliff (car, half-way, Id.), and on to Kenilworth . Visit Castle (admission 6d.); train back, 6d Visit one of the battlefields. Thursday Electric tram to Warwick (8d.)- - Thence by rail to Stratford-on-Avon (return fare, 3rd class) Visit Shakespeare's House (admission Is.), and Anne Hatha way's Cottage (free) Friday Three days' pension .... Share of tips ..... *Take morning train to Northampton. Share in drive to Great Brington Church ...... Visit Queen Eleanor's Cross. Lunch ...... *Take afternoon train to London. Arrive Euston Station, whence it is only five minutes' walk to Woburn Place and Southampton Row. Guide-book of London (Walker's) Carry forward, Section Exps. 80.12 .24 .02 .24 .12 .70 .24 4.50 .75 .50 .55 .24 Total. 91.65 16.64 $108.29 36 SECTION I. sightseer in London are in "Woburn Place and in Southampton Row, which is the continuation of Woburn Place to Oxford Street. These hotels are only a few minutes' walk from Euston, St. Pancras, and King's Cross Stations, Russell Square and Euston Road Underground Stations, the British Museum, and Oxford Street. The green 'bus (King's Cross to Victoria) runs via Woburn Place and Southampton Row to Shaf tesbury Avenue, Leicester Square, and Piccadilly the great theatre district. The " Chalk Farm to Waterloo " 'bus reaches the Strand in 5 minutes. 'Buses to all the chief sights of London are to be found in Oxford Street or the Strand. In Woburn Place are : White House Residential Hotel, - 6s. per day. Monopol Residential Hotel and others, - - 6s. ,, In Southampton Row are : Cranston's Waverley, - - 10s. per day Bedford, - 10s. and the more expensive hotels Russell, West Central, and Imperial. TAXIS in London have the same rates as in Scotland. GUIDES are unnecessary. Walkers' " Pocket Atlas and Guide to London " (Is.) will enable any intelligent sightseer to find his way. THE UNDERGROUND RAILWAY affords rapid transit to all parts of the Metropolis, and is remarkably con- SECTION I. 37 Brought forward, Saturday Whitechapel 'bus along Holborn, Oheapside, to the Bank of England, and on through Cornhill and Leadenhall Street to the Minories. Walk down the Minories to the Tower. Fare Visit London Bridge. Walham Green 'bus from Bank by Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street, Strand, to Trafalgar Square. Walk down White- hall to Houses of Parliament and West- minster Abbey. Lunch, 2s. Fare, 2d. Sunday City Temple (Rev. R. J. Campbell), five minutes' walk up Hol- born from Southampton Row. Visit graves of Crusaders in Temple Church, near Fleet Street Fares St. Paul's Fares . . Monday Shepherd's Bush 'bus to Kensington Palace .... Visit South Kensington Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Ken- sington Gardens, Rotton Row, Hyde Park, Mayfair. Return Oxford Street 'bus Oxford Street, Regent Street, Bond Street Fares ..... Tuesday Tate Gallery ('bus from Strand) Fares .... Carryforward, Section Exps. $0.04 .54 .04 .08 .04 .04 .04 .06 Total. $108.29 $108.29 38 SECTION I. venient. Any station will supply a good chart of the railway and its connections. RESTAURANTS of Slater, Lyon, and the Cabin Com- panies, which are scattered broadcast over London, are good and inexpensive. American specialties are served at Fuller's, Regent Street, and Self ridge's, Oxford Street. SALISBURY, which may be reached by rail from London in 1| hours, is one of the most interesting places in England. Tourists who are economising time would be well advised to spend there one of the days allotted to sightseeing in London. All who are returning via Liverpool should spend in Salisbury the extra days at their disposal. Excellent meals and accommodation are provided at the Old George Hotel (lunch 2s. 6d.) a Plantagenet Inn, dating from the early 14th century. It is mentioned in Pepys' Diary, and Shakespeare, when a strolling player, acted in the garden. The Cathedral is the finest example extant of pure Early English ; and on Salisbury Plain is the famous "Giants' Circle," Stonehenge, the most imposing megalolithic monument in Great Britain. SPECIALTIES of England, to most visitors, mean such goods as are displayed at Liberty's, in Regent Street. Liberty fabrics are world-famed. PASSENGERS RETURNING DIRECT by the Allan Line will have an opportunity to spend a splendid day at HAVRE. Visit the Rue de Paris and other main streets. Take car for La Heve, opposite Hotel de Ville. A SECTION I. 39 Brought forward, Walk up Vauxhall Road to Victoria Station. Lunch, 2a. Baker Street 'bus to Wallace Collection, Manchester Square ...... Return by Oxford Street Fares Wednesday National Gallery, the Mall, St. James' Park, Buckingham Palace. King's Cross 'bus from Hyde Park Corner to Southampton Row Fare . Thursday British Museum. Friday Underground Railway to Baker Street. Visit Regent's Park, Zoo- logical Gardens (admission Is.), Madame Tussaud's (admission Is.). Fares 4d. ...... Seven days at White House or Monopol Hotel Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Share in taxi to Victoria Station . Carry foricard, Section Exps. .50 .08 .06 .56 10.50 1.00 1.00 .30 Total. $108.29 15.12 $123.41 40 SECTION I. beautiful view of Havre ami the English Channel is obtained from the cliffs. The Casino at La Heve is open afternoons and evenings during the summer months, affording a glimpse of typical French amuse- ment. Steamers ply twice daily from Havre in one hour to Trouville-sur-Mer, the fashionable seaside resort on the Normandy coast. (Fare, 3 francs.) A few hours are given at Quebec, also, on the way up the St. Lawrence. It is a quaint old town of great historic interest. A trolley-trip to St. Anne de Beaupre gives travellers a sight of Montmorency Falls. St. Anne de Beaupre is the Lourdes of Canada, and the famous miracle-working shrine is visited by pilgrims from all parts of the country. At Montreal baggage will be checked direct from the wharf to destination in U.S. If the U.S. inspector is not on the wharf, have baggage checked to the Montreal Station, examined there by the U.S. inspector, and re-checked to destination. This saves trouble on frontier. CUSTOMS EXAMINATIONS IN EUROPE. The examin- ation is generally made at the railway station nearest the frontier. Passengers must leave the train and be prepared to open any locked package for the inspecting officer. On some routes all passengers are obliged to leave the cars whether they have baggage for examination or npt. Any baggage not passed by Customs is detained on the frontier. It is therefore wise to inquire of the conductor the name of the SECTION I. 41 Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. $123.41 RETURNING DIRECT TO U.S.A. Allan Line one class cabin service, London to Montreal via Havre and Quebec. Steamer sails Saturday. Carried forward, . $123.41 Bed and breakfast in London 1.25 Share in taxi to Surrey Docks .50 Fare, London to Montreal . 45.00 Havre : Car to La Heve . .20 Admission to Casino . . .20 Quebec : Visit Chateau Frontenac Car to St. Anne de Beaupre .30 Steamer-chair . . . .75 Share of tips on board . . 2.00 Rail, Montreal to Boston . 9.80 SEVEN WEEKS FOR . $183.41 *The American Line also runs a one class cabin service, Liverpool to Philadelphia via Queenstown. Fare from $45.00. Rail, London to Liverpool, 3rd class, $4.00. Steamer sails Wednesday. GERMANY. *Leave London Friday evening. Fare, London to Munich via Harwich, Antwerp. Brussels, and Cologne, 2nd class . . $14.70 Meals on train . . .1.50 Share of tips . . . . .50 Carry forward, $123.41 42 SECTION I. frontier station, and gain information about any peculiarities of the inspection. In Belgium and Germany the only dutiable articles likely to be carried are tobacco and spirits, and on these the duty is trifling. In France the importation of matches and playing- cards is strictly prohibited. A fine of a franc per match may be imposed for any discovered. Only 10 cigars, or 20 cigarettes, are allowed duty-free. The penalty for false declaration is heavy. In Italy the laws are similar to those of France. GERMANY. COLOGNE CATHEDRAL is the finest Gothic church in the world. The Church of St. Ursula is decorated with a sepulchral mosaic, made (it is alleged) of the bones of the 1 1,000 virgins martyred by the Huns. MUNICH has many excellent pensions, clean, com- fortable, and inexpensive. PENSION LIESECKE, MAXIMILIANS-PLATZ 8, is within a few minutes' walk of the chief places of interest. Rate, 8 M. per day. CONVEYANCES. Tariff : Taxi-cabs (1 or 2 persons), . 70 pf. for 800 metres. 10 pf. each 400 metres additional. Taxi-motors . 90 pf. for 900 metres. 10 pf . each 300 metres additional. SECTION I. 43 Section Exps. Total. Brought forward, . $123.41 A day might be profitably spent in Brussels, the Belgian capital, at the same expense as a day in Munich. Visit the Cathedral and Palais des Beaux Arts. A stop-over of two or three hours may be made at Cologne. Visit the Cathedral, and Church of St. Ursula. *Arrive Munich Saturday even- ing or Sunday morning. Sunday Service at Allerheiligen Hof kirche. Music at Feldherrn- halle (noon). 3.15 p.m., drive round sights .... 1.00 Monday Maximilian eum (10 a.m. to noon), Frauenkirche, Old Rathaus. Visit Englischer Garten. Tuesday New Pirakothek (free), Schack Gallery (free.) Wednesday Old Pinakothek [free), Nymphenburg (Car No. 1 from Central Station.) Fare .24 In evening visit Hofbrauhaus, the most famous of Bavarian beer-houses . .10 Thursday National Museum (free), German Museum (free). In evening, Tonhalle Concert. .24 Garry forward, $123.41 44 SECTION I. Excursion carriages start twice daily (9.45 a.m. and 3.15 p.m.) from Central Station to visit the chief sights. Cars are marked by numbers, and at the various stopping-places the numbers of the cars which pass these points are posted up. PORTERS, from station to cab,charge 20pf.per llOlbs. CURRENCY : Copper 1 Pfennig $0.002 2 Pfennige .005 Nickel 5 .012 5> 10 .024 Silver 50 .12 M 1 Mark QOO pf.) .24 n 2 Marks .48 3 .72 5 1.20 Gold 10 2.38 20 4.76 Notes are issued for 5, 1 0, 20, 50 marks and up- wards. RAILWAY TRAVELLING in Germany is comfortable and inexpensive. German 2nd class carriages are equal to 1st class carriages of many other countries. On through trains each traveller is allotted a fixed seat. No baggage is free except hand-baggage taken into the carriage. SPECIALTIES of Germany: Cutlery, toilet articles, engravings and reproductions, wood carvings. SECTION I. 45 Brought forward, Friday The Palace, 10.45 a.m., admission . . . Glyptothek (free). Six days pension . . . Share of tips .... Laundry .... Handbook of Munich . . Share of cab from and to station ..... Fare, Munich to Paris, 2nd class ..... Meals on train . . . $.24 12.00 1.00 .75 .24 .48 12.70 1.00 $46.69 6.90 Less Fare, London to Paris . EXTRA FOR GERMANY . . $39.79 PARIS. *Leave Victoria Station, London, 8.45 p.m. Arrive Gare St. Lazare, Paris, 6.30 a.m. Fare, London to Paris via Newhaven and Dieppe ...... Guide-book, Baedeker's Paris . Share in cab to hotel Saturday Palais Royale, Rue de Rivoli, Bastille, and Boulevards, Champs Elysees. Arc de Triomphe (free), Bois de Boulogne. Carryforward, Section Exps. $6.90 1.47 .12 Total. $123.41 $123.41 46 SECTION I. PARIS. HOTEL Calais, Rue de Capucines, is central, comfort- able, and inexpensive. OCTROI officials at the exit from the station ask the nature of the contents of hand-baggage. A small tax is levied on food-stuffs entering the city, but this is not likely to affect the tourist. CONVEYANCES. Tariff : Taxi-cabs, 75 Centimes for 1 Kilometre. 25 each additional. At night, 50 extra. TIPS in France are trifling ; 25 centimes (about 5 cents) is accepted with gratitude for a small service. It is xisual to give a cab-driver 20 centimes in addition to the fare. CURRENCY : Copper 5 Centimes (sou) $0.01 10 .02 Silver 50 .10 1 Franc (100 centimes) .193 2 Francs .386 5 .965 Gold 5 .97 10 1.93 20 3.86 Notes are issued for 50, 100, 500 francs, and up- wards. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold and silver coins are current in France at full value ; also Italian copper coins. SECTION I. 47 Brought forward, Sunday Russian Church (Rue Daru.) Louvre and Tuileries. Monday Quarters of the Bourse, Chaussee d'Antin and cle 1' Europe, La Villette, Montmartre, Musee Grevin (admission 2 francs) Moulin Rouge. Share of cab . Tuesday St. Germain, Luxembourg, St. Sulpice ('bus from Boul. d. Italiens) Trocadero, Invalides (free), Champ de Mars, Eiffel Tower (ascent 2 francs) 'Bus from Madeleine to Trocadero Wednesday Notre Dame (admission to sacristy, treasury, and chapter-house -franc). Sorbonne, Pantheon (free), St. Etienne du Mont. Jardin des PI antes. Thursday Arts et Metiers (free), Pere Lachaise ('bus from Place de la Republique) ..... Re-visit Louvre. Friday St. Cloud, Sevres, Meudon, Versailles. (Tramway from Louvre) . Lunch ...... Dinner ...... Six days at Calais Hotel, Rue de Capucines ...... Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Share of cab to station Carryforward, Section Exps. Total. $123.41 $0.40 .24 .12 .52 .10 .12 .74 .50 .65 12.00 .75 .75 .12 25.50 8148.91 48 SECTION I. SHOPPING. In Paris, and on the Continent generally, beware of these fashionable stores which cater directly to the American tourist. The prices are not fixed, and are apt to be as high as the purchaser will pay. Select the stores of best local reputation, which have prices plainly marked, alike for native and foreigner. The most attractive are those in the Boulevards. POSTAGE To all countries in Postal Union : Letters, . 25 centimes per 20 grammes. Postcards, . 10 centimes. SPECIALTIES of Paris : Gloves, perfumery, apparel. Specialties of Paris may be obtained in Grand Magasin du Louvre, Rue du Rivoli. Films, and films : Photo Scribe 5. printing of Hall, Rue SWITZERLAND. OUEKENCY same as France. From Bale there is a beautiful view of the Rhine and the heights of the Black Forest. The most picturesque rail route in Switzerland is between Bale and Lucerne. After skirting the slopes of Mount Jura the road pierces the mountain by a long tunnel. Beyond are views of the Bernese Alps and (as you approach Lucerne) of Pilatus and the Rigi. SECTION I. 49 RETURNING DIRECT TO U.S.A. Cie. Gle. Transatalantique steamer sails from Havre on Saturday. Carried forward, . $148.91 One day extra in Paris . . 2.00 Paris to New York via Havre, 2nd class . . 56.50 1st class, $83.10 Steamer-chair . . . .75 Share of tips . . . ,2.00 Two MONTHS FOR 1210.16 Allan Line one class cabin service, Monday. Paris to Havre, 2nd class . $3.37 Havre to New York vice Montreal 60.30 $63.67 White Star Line (Wednesday). Paris to New York via Cherbourg. 1st class from $101.25 2nd class from 63.73 Section Exps. 50 SECTION I. ITALY. CURRENCY : Copper 5 Centesimi (1 soldo) S0.01 it 10 (2 soldi) .02 Nickel 20 .04 25 .05 Silver 50 .10 1 Lira or lOOc. .193 2 Lire .386 ,, 5 .97 Gold 10 1.93 55 20 3.86 The paper currency, notes of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 lire, and upwards, is most in evidence. CUSTOMS. The only articles sought for are tobacco, matches, playing cards, and concealed weapons. Only 10 cigars are allowed free, or about half a pound of tobacco, and the duty on further supplies is 1 2 lire per pound. Weapons of all sorts are forbidden, and are always liable to confiscation. HEALTH. It is an exploded idea that Italy is unhealthy in summer and fall. Genoa, Venice, Florence, Rome, and Naples may be visited in any season with safety and comfort. The water supply of these towns is excellent. In any departure from the beaten track the water should be avoided unless it is boiled. RAILWAYS, State-owned, are fair. Railway com- partments are of three classes, of which the second is SECTION I. 51 Brought forward, SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. *Have tourist ticket routed : Paris to Naples via Bale, Lucerne, St. Gothard, Milan, Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, and Rome. 2nd class 1st class, $42.85 *Leave Paris Friday evening; arrive Lucerne Saturday morning. Petit dejeuner on train *Leave baggage at station Visit the old bridges, especially the " Muhlen Brucke " with its quaint pictures of the " dance of death." Meals in Lucerne .... Sunday Arrive Milan, a.m. Visit Cathedral and ascend to roof. Galleria Vitt. Emanuele. Brera Gallery (admission 1 lira) . Monday Biblioteca Ambrosiana (admis- sion 50 centesimi) S. Maria delle Grazie (admission 1 lira) ....... S. Lorenzo. Walk in public gardens Cab fare ...... Two days at Hotel Gran Bretagna . Share of tips ..... Omnibus ...... Carryforward, Section Exps. Total. $148.91 $29.20 .25 .10 1.10 .20 .10 .20 .20 4.00 .75 .40 $148.91 52 SECTION I. quite comfortable. Ladies who are travelling alone generally go first. Smoking-compartments are laballed " Fumatori." Non-smoking compartments bear the notice : " Vietato di fumare." Porters, who come at once at a call for a " facchino," charge from 5 to 20 centesimi per package according to size. Never give more than 10 centesimi for a hand-package. No baggage whatever is carried free in the baggage car. It is best to tour Italy with hand-baggage only, and send on heavy baggage by freight train to destination. Circular tourist tickets must always be taken to the booking-office and stamped with the name of the next station at which the traveller intends to halt. Drivers, facchini, gondoliers, etc., are apt to be noisy and importunate. Whenever there is any doubt about the cost of a vehicle ask to see the tariff, which is always definite and intelligible. VENICE. A representative of the hotel will be on the station platform to make everything easy for the traveller. He will look after all baggage and lead the way to a gondola. HOTEL PENSION INTERNATIONAL is centrally located, two minutes walk from St. Mark Square; with electric light, central heating, etc., etc. Rate from SECTION I. 53 Brought forward, Tuesday The traveller- might stop off a few hours at Verona to visit Cathedral and picture gallery, and proceed by evening train to Venice. Meals VENICE. Gondola to hotel and porterage . Baedeker's Italy (from the Alps to Naples) ...... Wednesday By gondola up the Grand Canal. Alight at the Rialto and walk back by the Merceria to St. Mark's. Share in gondola .... Thursday Palace of the Doges (admis- sion L. 1.20), Bridge of Sighs and Prisons, St. Mark's .... Evening on Grand Canal. Share in gondola ...... Friday S. Zaccaria, S. Maria Formosa, S. Giovanni e Paolo, Church of the Jesuits, Arsenal (free.) Saturday Accademia delle Belle Arti (admission L. 1) . . . Frari. Share in gondolas . Sunday S. Giorgio Maggiore, Reden- tore. Gondolas . Carryforward, Section Exps. 80.10 1.10 .30 2.00 .20 .25 .30 .20 .30 .30 Total. $148.91 37.70 $186.61 54 SECTION I. 7 to 9 lire per day, according to room and length of stay. GONDOLAS take the place of cabs. All have a printed tariff, which must be shown on demand. Rate, from station to hotels, 1 lira (by night 1 lira 30c.) When engaging a gondola by time the traveller should say " All. ora," and show his watch. Rates : (1 to 4 persons), per hour, . 1 lira. each extra hour, 50c. per day, . 5 lire. On all festival occasions a bargain must be made. Idlers who help travellers to disembark expect a few centesimi. SPECIALTIES. Laces and glass. Venetian Laces and Embroideries : M. Jesurum & Co., Ponte Canonica. Venetian Glass, Porcelain, Bronzes, Marbles, &c. : Salviati & Co., Canal Grande, S. Gregorio 195. FLORENCE. Florence has many excellent pensions at which a traveller may remain in great comfort at very little cost. The pleasantest are those which overlook the Arno, as the Jennings-Riccioli in Via Tintori, and Lucchesi, 16 Lungarno. Rates from 6 lire per day, all-inclusive. SECTION I. 55 Brought forward, Monday Excursions by gondola to the Lido, and the glass factories of Murano ...... Tuesday On the Grand Canal Seven days at Hotel Pension Inter- national ...... Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Gondola to station and porterage FLORENCE. Cab to hotel Porterage ...... Wednesday Visit the sights round the Piazza della Signorio, Palazzo Vecchio, Loggia dei Lanzi, Portico degli Uffizi, the bridges of the Arno, especially the Ponte Vecchio. Bargello Gallery (admission 1. 1) . Thursday Gallery Uffizi (admission 1. 1) Gallery Buonarroti (free). Friday Santa Croce, or San Michelle, Cathedral, Campanile, and Baptistery, S. Marco (admission 1. 1) . Saturday Gallery Pitti (admission 1. 1), Browning's House .... Sunday Walk or drive to San Miniato and La Certosa ..... Carryforward, Section Exps. $0.40 .50 12.60 1.50 1.00 .30 .30 .10 .20 .20 .20 .20 .10 $186.61 $206.76 56 SECTION I. CAB TARIFF Day. Night. Drive in town, . . 1 lira 1 lira 30c. Half -hour, . . .1 lira 20c. 1 lira 30c. Each extra half -hour . 80c. 1 lira Half -hour beyond town, 2 lire Each extra half -hour, . 1 lira SPECIALTIES. Laces, leather-work, photographs, works in marble and alabaster. The goldsmiths of the Ponte Vecchio are famous. Photographs ; Campagnia Rotografica, Lungarno Acciaioli, 2b. Marble and Alabaster : Fratelli Lapini, Via del Fossi and Piazza Manin. ROME. HOTEL BETHELL, in Via Babuoni, is central, com- fortable, and inexpensive. It is within a few minutes' walk of St. Peter's and the Vatican, of S. Maria del Popolo and Monte Pincio, of the Forum, Palatine, and Colosseum, and of the main shopping district. Rates from 9 lire per day, according to room and season. Representatives of the hotels meet each train and provide for travellers' transport. TAXI-CABS abound in Rome. Rate is 80 centeshni for 1 kilometre, and 20c. per half-kilometre additional. Carriages may be hired by the day at an average of 30 lire. SECTION I. 57 Brought forward, (Tramway to Certosa from Porta Romana return 1.1) Monday Bello Sguardo and Monte Oliveto Tips (Omnibus from Piazza della Signorio to Porta S. Frediano return fare, 20 centesimi) ..... Re-visit Uffizi and Pitti Tuesday Fiesole. (Electric car from Piazza S. Marco return 1.1). Seven days at Pension Jennings- Riccioli ...... Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Cab to Station and porterage *Leave by afternoon train for Rome. ROME. Hotel omnibus . . . Wednesday Drive and stroll round main streets Cabs .... Thursday St. Peter's and Dome, Sistine Chapel, Raphael's Stanze and Loggie, Vatican Picture Gallery . Friday Capitoline Museum and Palace of Conservator! ..... Forum, Trajan's Column Cabs . Garry forward, Section Exps. $0.20 .10 .04 .20 .20 9.80 1.00 .75 .40 .20 .50 .20 .20 .40 58 SECTION I. Italian opera is beautifully rendered at Teatro Costanzi. If possible, a moonlight excursion should be made to the Colosseum. MENDICANCY is a regular trade in Southern Italy, and the authorities ask the aid of tourists to put an end to it. The influence of the famed basaglieri does not extend beyond the gates of Rome, and it is considered dangerous to be out alone on the Campagna after dark. Little attention is paid by the guide-books to S. Stefano Rotundo and the Capuchin Church. The whole history of Christian martyrdom is illustrated on the walls of the former, and the Capuchin Church, with its myriad skeletons in monkish garb and its weird decorations, is a little gruesome but intensely interesting to the visitor. SPECIALTIES. Roman pearls and silks, laces, embroideries, corals, lapis-lazuli. The souvenirs most likely to be treasured are photographs. NAPLES. Representatives of the principal hotels meet all trains. The most satisfactory hotel in Naples is Bertolini's Palace. Situated on the heights, it commands a wonderful view of the city and bay of Naples and the island of Capri. SECTION I. 59 Brought forward, Saturday S. Pietro in Vincoli, S. Stefano Rotundo, S. Giovanni in Laterano, Scala Santa, Colosseum, Arch of Constantine, Thermae of Titus Cabs Sunday Vatican Sculpture Gallery (free) Cabs ..... Pantheon, S. Maria Sopra Minerva. Monday Drive out by Appian Way, visit Thermae of Caracalla (1. 1), Circus of Maxentius, Church of Domine Quo Vadis, Catacombs of S. Callistus (1. 1), Latin Tombs (25 centesimi) Share in drive ..... Tuesday Palatine (1. 1) Cabs 1.2 Villa Borghese (1. 1), S. Maria del Popolo ...... Wednesday Capuchin Church and Sub- terranean Cemetery .... Palazzo Borghese (1.1) Cabs 1. 2 Thursday Palazzo Barberini, Museo Boncompagni, Thermae of Diocletian, S. Agnese Fuori Cabs Friday Excursion to Tivoli. Train fare, return 2nd class Ten days at Hotel Bethell Hotel 'bus to station .... Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... *Leave by afternoon train for Naples. Section Exps. ).40 .20 ,45 1.50 .60 .20 .20 .60 .40 .65 18.00 .20 1.50 1.00 Total. S220.76 27.40 $248.15 60 SECTION I. Taxi-cabs are as in Rome. Fares are raised on Sundays and holidays. A small monthly publication, " Orario," details all railway and tramway services in Naples and environs. Neapolitan street scenes are of unending interest to a traveller on his first visit. The Toledo, which runs straight from the Palazzo Reale to the Museum, is well worth a visit in the evening. SPECIALTIES. Coral, tortoise-shell, aud lava ornaments. GREECE. CURRENCY : Copper ?j Nickel Silver Gold As in Italy, the paper currency is most used. POSTAGE to all countries in Postal Union : Letters, . 25 lepta per 20 grammes. Post-cards, . 10 lepta. 1 lepton $0.002 2 lepta .004 5 .01 10 .02 20 .04 50 .10 1 drachma .193 2 drachmas .386 5 .97 10 1.93 20 3.86 SECTION I. 61 Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. $248.15 NAPLES. Hotel omnibus ..... $0.20 Saturday Cathedral, Santa Chiara, S. Dominico Maggiore Cabs .40 Aquarium (1 .2), Villa Nazionale .40 Sunday Castel Sant Elmo and Car- thusian Monastery, Museo Nazionale (free) Cabs ..... .30 Monday Excursion to Pompeii. Cabs to and from station .... .40 Return fare, 2nd class .62 Admission ..... ,40 (Hotel provides luncheon.) Tuesday Excursion to Sorrento and Capri. Return fare .... 2.00 Embarkation and landing fees . .16 Boat from steamer to Blue Grotto and back ....... .25 Lunch at Marina .... .65 Wednesday Excursion to Bagnoli and Lago d'Agnano (Grotto del Cane). Share of drive ..... .40 Thursday Six days at Bertolini's Palace Hotel . 19.20 Share of tips ..... 1.50 Laundry ...... .75 Hotel 'bus and porterage . .40 28 OS Carryforward, MWiVV $276.18 62 SECTION I. CUSTOMS EXAMINATION is lenient, and tourists have little trouble. There is, however, a high duty on cigars. No antiquities may be taken from the country, and baggage of departing travellers is frequently subjected to inspection. COEFU is the most important of the Ionian Islands. Steamers of the Austrian Lloyd and Navigazaone Generale Italiana lines anchor off the island for several hours. There is a fixed price of lj drachmas for landing and re-embarkation. The time on shore may be spent pleasantly in a stroll through the town and a drive across the island to the Achilleion, the beautiful villa of the German Emperor. PATRAS is reached the next morning. As a rule representatives of the Athens hotels board the steamer at Patras and give any assistance the traveller may require, but there are no real difficulties to be encountered. The boatman's fee for landing a passenger with baggage at the Customs wharf is two drachmas. There are women porters (!) who immediately take possession of all packages passed by the examining officers and carry them to the train for a few lepta. The train for Athens starts from the Customs wharf. Of the three classes on the Greek railway, first and second differ only 20 per cent, in fare, and less than that in discomfort. A so-called wagon de luxe runs three times weekly between Patras and Athens. A considerable premium is put upon travel by this train, and it is just as uncomfortable as the others. The SECTION I. 63 Brought fonoard, Section Exps. Total. $276.18 GREECE. *Leave Naples Wednesday morn- ing for Brindisi. Fare, Naples to Brindisi, 1st class, $8.50 2nd class .... $6.00 Meals 1.20 Cab to dock, and porterage *Austrian-Lloyd steamer sails 11.30 p.m. Fare to Pati-as via Corfu, 1st class, $13.40. 2nd class .... .35 9.20 Thursday At Corfu. Landing and embarkation Share of drive to Achilleion . .30 1.00 Admission .... .40 Lunch in Corfu .55 Friday Arrive Patras. Tips on board Landing with baggage . Porterage to Custom House . Fare to Athens, 1st class Lunch at Corinth . .50 .40 .20 5.00 .80 Cab from station to hotel .40 Porterage .... *A11 main sights of Athens are within easy walking distance of the hotels on Place de la .10 Constitution. Carry forward, $276.18 64 SECTION I. trains have no dining-car, no lavatory accommodation, no heating arrangements. On the way to Athens the train crosses the isthmus and canal of Corinth, and passengers are afforded a glimpse of Megara and Eleusis. A stop of 20 minutes is made at Corinth for lunch. Tourists who do not understand modern Greek require a dragoman for travel in the interior, but in Athens, to which a first visit will probably be limited, no guide is required. Greece is almost entirely free from mendicants, and public safety is excellent. It is best to take rooms, while in Athens, in one of the hotels in the Place de la Constitution, which is close to the Palace and within a few steps of the Acropolis. Pension rates are obtainable at Hotel d'Angleterre and the Grand Hotel Pateros. Water of a good quality from the spring of Marousi is provided. CARRIAGES to or from the station cost 2dr., to Piraeus with baggage 6/7 dr. As the whole interest of Athens is near at hand, carriages will not be necessary elsewhere. Allow 1| hours for the drive to Piraeus. A glorious view of the town, the Bay of Eleusis, Salamis, etc., is obtained from Mt. Lykabettos. A small handbook of Athens can easily be obtained, but the passenger who intends to visit Gibraltar, Algiers, Egypt, and Palestine should purchase Baedeker's handbook of the Mediterranean. SECTION I. 65 Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. $276.18 Saturday Acropolis, general survey. Visit Palace Garden and main streets. Sunday Greek Church, Stadeon, Olympeion, River Ilyssus. Monday National Museum, Theatre of Dionysos, Odeion, Areopagus, Pnyx. Tuesday Stoa d'Adrien and d'Attale, Theseion, Dipylon. Ascend Lykabettos. Wednesday Acropolis, Prison of Socrates, Philopappos. Acropolis Museum. Thursday : Ramble in modern Athens. Yisit Parthenon at sunset. Friday- Seven days at Grand Hotel Pateros $1 4.00 Share of tips .... 1.50 Laundry . . . . .75 Share of carriage to Piraeus . .75 Porterage .... .20 *Vessel of Navigazione Generale Italiana sails Friday at 2 p.m. Fare to Naples, 1st class, 31.10 (2nd cla^* $>1 80) EXTRA FOR GREECE . . $74.70 Carryforward, $276.18 66 SECTION I. SPECIALTIES : Ancient and modern Greek and Turkish embroideries, and photographs. Embroideries : The Minerva, Rue d'Hermes 30. Films developed and printed : Tavanokes & Georgantopoulos, Rue d'Hermes 12. SECTION I. 67 Section Expe. Total. Brought forward, $276.18 *N.D.L. steamer sails from Piraeus for Naples every Sunday afternoon : 1st class . . $30.00 2nd class . . 21.00 Fare, Naples to New York, by Cunard, White Star, N.D.L., or Hamburg-American Line 2nd class 1st class from $80.00. Steamer-nhair ..... Share of tips on board S65.00 1.00 2.00 68 00 TOTAL FOB THREE MONTHS TOUR. $344.18 *Lloyd Sabaudo Line, Naples to New York: 1st class from $70.00 2nd class from 50.00 SECTION II. TOURS IN ITALY, GREECE (PALES- TINE), AND EGYPT. 70 SECTION II. GIBRALTAR gives the traveller his first glimpse of the East, of picturesque Moors, turbaned Arabs, and veiled women, of snake-charmers and water-sellers, of quaint streets and uncouth caravans. A ticket for landing and embarkation by tender can be purchased at the gangway for $0.50. Travel agents offer a drive at $1 per person, but the traveller can hire a carriage, accommodating 4, for $0.50. There is no elaborate sight-seeing to be done. The most interesting sight in Gibraltar is the cosmopolitan crowd in the streets. A short drive to the west brings the tourist to the public gardens. La Linea in Spain lies a mile to the east beyond the neutral territory. The British vehicle is not permitted to cross the Spanish border, but the passenger may cross on foot and visit the market and the old bull-ring. Permission is granted to visit a portion of the famous fortifications. Vendors of Spanish shawls and silver lace work await the tourist at the landing-stage. They will accept with pleasure one-fourth of the price first asked often much less than that. The fabrics of beaten silver are manufactured at Assiut and may be purchased there much more cheaply. Tobacco is very cheap in Gibraltar. British currency is used. Before reaching Genoa the traveller has a splendid view from the sea of the Maritime Alps, and a glimpse of the French Riviera. SECTION II. Travel Expenses. 71 Baedeker's Handbook to Mediterranean New York to Genoa via Gibraltar by Cunard, White Star, or N.D.L. Line, 1st class from 2nd class, $65.00. Lloyd-Sabaudo Line 1st class from $70.00 2nd class from 50.00 Steamer- chair . Share of tips ...... GIBRALTAE. Landing and embarkation Share in drive ..... GENOA. Baggage transport . Hotel omnibus from dock and to station ...... Baedeker's " Italy " (from Alps to Naples) ...... Visit Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianca Campo Santo guide and cars . Two days at Hotel Metropole, or Hotel Central ..... Laundry ...... Share of tips Carry forward, Section Exps. $3.60 80.00 1.00 3.00 .50 .50 .25 .40 2.00 .40 .30 4.00 1.00 .60 72 SECTION II. GENOA. The traveller goes at his leisure to the Customs shed. As the baggage is brought up from the ship he should pick out his own packages and have them placed together. When all have arrived he must ask an officer to examine them. Probably ouly one will be selected for examination. Tobacco, matches, and playing-cards should be promptly declared. Representatives of the various hotels are waiting with vehicles just outside. The traveller need only call up the porter of the hotel he has chosen, and everything possible will be done for his comfort. For information about Italy and Greece see Section I. QUARANTINE. It is not uncommon for passengers, reaching Alexandria on a vessel which has touched at Turkish or Syrian ports, to be quarantined for two or three days. As a rule they are not taken to the quarantine station, but are allowed to remain on board ship at anchor in the Bay. There is nothing very serious in a quarantine experience. Each passenger must go before a medical officer in the saloon, present his tongue for criticism and have his pulse taken. Then he must pay 6 pias- tres (30 cents) for an oi-der for the disinfection of his goods. The purification is done in symbol. Any small article is regarded as sufficient, a handkerchief for SECTION II. Section Exps. Total. Brought forward, $97.55 *Take morning train to Venice. Circular ticket from Genoa to Naples, via Venice, Florence, and Rome: 1st class (approx.) . $23.50 2nd class, $16.00. Lunch on train ..... .65 24.15 VENICE-NAPLES. Expenses as in Section I. VENICE, 7 days 18.15 FLORENCE, 7 days .... 13.99 HOME, 10 days ..... 27.40 NAPLES, 6 days ..... 28.03 87.57 RETURNING DIRECT TO U.iS.A. Naples to New York by Cunard, White Star, N.D.L., or Hamburg- American Line : 1st class from . $80.00 2nd class, $65.00. Steamer-chair . . 1.00 Share of tips . . 3.00 Carried forward (less book on Mediterranean) 205. 67 Two MONTHS : 1st class travel $289.67 2nd class travel 252.17 Carryforward, $209.27 74 SECTION II. example. It is gravely sterilized and returned, and the owner is considered wholly clean. When the quarantine period has expired, there is another^ medical inspection similar to the first, and the prisoners are free. Steamship companies exact $3.40 per day for board during quarantine. BARGAINING IN THE EAST. The first principle a tourist must master in order to shop successfully in the East, particularly in Palestine, Egypt, India, and China, is the principle of abatement in bargaining. The " asking price " is a recognised institution, and no reflection whatever is cast on a merchant by offering less than the amount of his original quotation. Take 20 per cent, off the price of a high-class dealer and 75 per cent, off the demand of a native store-keeper or itinerant hawker, they will still have a large margin of profit. But in all cases no vital notice should be taken of the price quoted at the commencement of the bargaining. A store-keeper is not even rendered happy by a prompt acceptance of his extortionate demands. He will lie awake o' nights grieving that he did not ask more. Remember that the natives live and work on a few cents a day. The average daily wage of the fellaheen in Egypt is 20 cents. These peasants are skilled in making beads and small images in their spare time, which they offer as genuine antiques. Only the con- SECTION II. Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. $27.00 1.20 .35 21.85 $209.27 50.40 26.50 *L 3 i BR < Co *L ] i save Tuesday or Wednesday morning for Brindisi. Naples to Athens, via Brindisi, Corfu, ind Patras 1st class (approx.) . 2nd class, $19.00. INDISI. Meals .... Jab to dock, and porterage . RFU- ATHENS Expenses as in Section I. 25.00 1.50 RETURNING DIRECT TO U.S.A. Carried forward $259. 67 Piraeus Naples, 1st class 29.00 2nd class, 20.00 Naples New York, 1st class from . . . 80.00 2nd class, $65.00 Steamer-chair . . 1.00 Share of tips . . . 3.00 TEN WEEKS : 1st class travel $372.67 2nd class travel 318.17 eave Piraeus Tuesday, Wednesday, or Saturday for Alexandria. Piraeus Alexandria, 1st class . 2nd class $16.25 Share of tips ..... Carry forward, $286.17 76 SECTION II. noisseur can distinguish them from similar articles found in the tombs. The small funeral statue which your donkey-boy will thrust upon you has cost him about 2 cents in time and material. He is well paid and happy if he gets 5 cents for it, but he will not hesitate to ask $2. In the case of a fairly large purchase, the practice of giving a gift to the purchaser is universal in the East. It is simply a part of the deal and included in the price, and the tourist should always ask for it. The tourist is nowhere more helpless than in landing at Alexandria and Jaffa. Hordes of unintelligible Arabs rush on board, pounce upon hand-baggage, and clamour for bakhshish. Furthermore, there is a Customs examination, and, in case of quarantine, there are formalities to be gone through, such as signing oaths of disinfection, etc. If the traveller is proceeding direct to Cairo from Alexandria, and there is on the dock a representative of the hotel at which he intends to stay, his way is easy. He has simply to call the man up and put everything in his hands. If, however, he intends to visit Palestine, he will assure his comfort and safety by placing himself under the protection of Cook's agent. This costs $1 at Alexandria or Jaffa, and includes carriage from steamer to station, baggage transfer, and safe conduct past all officials. SECTION II. 77 Brought forward, Section Exps. Total. ($286.17 PALESTINE. *Leave Alexandria Thursday, Friday, Saturday, or Sunday for Jaffa Cook's transfer at Alexandria from steamer to steamer . . SI. 00 Alexandria Jaffa, 1st class . 14.00 2nd class, $10.00 Share of tips . . . .1.00 Cook's landing ticket for Jaffa 1.00 Cook's handbook to Lower Palestine . . . . .50 Share in drive round Jaffa (with guide) 75 Lunch at Hotel Hard egg . .75 Tips 25 Jaffa Jerusalem, 1st class return fare . . . .11.60 *Arrange with Cook for dragoman and trips. 4 days visiting Church of Holy Sepulchre, Via Dolorosa, Jews' Wailing Place, Mount Moriah, Dome of the Kock, Bethlehem, Mount of Olives, Gethsemane, Mary's Tomb, Bethany, and many other places in and around Jerusalem. (Guide, saddle- donkeys, admissions, tips, car- riages, etc.), approx. . . 8.00 Carryforward, $286.17 78 SECTION II. PALESTINE. CURRENCY. The money unit and value of coins in Palestine are often changed, and the result is chaos, but the following approximates the value at present : Metallic 5 Paras 880.005 10 .01 20 .02 Silver 1 Piastre (40 paras) '04 2 Piastres .08 5 .20 10 .40 1 Mejidieh .80 Gold | Lira 1.09 * 2.18 1 (pound) 4.36 The English sovereign is accepted eagerly at 118 silver piastres, and the French 20-franc piece at 95. JAFFA. The traveller will have several hours at his disposal before the train starts for Jerusalem. Thomas Cook & Son arrange a drive round the chief places of interest, the houses of Simon the Tanner and Dorcas, the bazaars and orange groves. A handy little guide-book to Southern Palestine may be procured at any of Cook's agencies. JERUSALEM cannot be explored without a dragoman. The novice would be hopelessly lost within 100 yards. On the other hand, the advertised tours are much more expensive than a trip to Palestine need be. It is not advisable to go to Jericho and the Dead Sea, SECTION II. 79 Brought forward. 4 days at Grand Hotel . $10.00 Share of tips . . . .1.00 Laundry ..... .75 Cook's embarkation fee . . 1.00 Jaffa Port Said, 1 st class . 7.00 2nd class, $5.00 Share of tips . . . .50 Conveyance to station . . .25 Porterage . . . .20 Port Said Cairo, 1st class . 4.80 2nd class, $2.40 $64.35 Less fare, Alexandria Cairo, 1st class ..... 4.50 2nd class, $2.27 EXTRA FOR PALESTINE 8 days $59.85 (2nd class travel, 1st in Palestine) .... 53.28 ALEXANDRIA. Cook's transfer from dock to station . Share of drive in Alexandria, visiting fortifications, bazaars, etc. . Lunch ...... Fare, Alexandria Cairo, 1st class 2nd class, $2.27 CAIRO. Hotel omnibus ..... Porterage ...... Visit Esbekeyeh Gardens. Carryforward, Section Exps. Total. $286.17 $1.00 .50 .65 4.50 6.65 .25 .10 $292.82 80 SECTION II. which may be seen clearly from the Mount of Olives. The journey is long and comfortless, and the results meagre. The traveller who hires a dragoman for 4 days, arranges to see all of interest within and around the walls of the city, and makes excursions by carriage or donkey to Bethlehem and Bethany, returning forthwith to civilisation, is likely to be best satisfied with his visit. MOSQUES may be visited with absolute safety. It is not necessary now for the alien to remove his shoes. Large slippers are provided at the door at a cost of 1 piastre. There are Turkish, Austrian, German, French, and Russian post-offices in Palestine, each using the stamp of the country it represents. POSTAL RATES in Turkish post-office : To all countries in Postal Union : Letters, 1 piastre 10 paras per ounce. Post-cards, 20 paras. SPECIALTIES. Bedouin dress and olive-wood carv- ings. SECTION II. 81 Section Exps. Total. Brought forward, $292.82 1st day Mouski bazaars, Old Cairo. Mosque of Sultan Hasan, Citadel, Alabaster Mosque. Guide ...... $2.00 Share of drive to Citadel . .55 Admissions, and hire of slippers .30 2nd day Mosque of Muaiyad and Bab Zuweileh, Mohammedan University, Pyramids, Sphinx, and Sphinx Temple. Guide ...... 2.00 Admissions, and hire of slippers .30 Monument ticket .... .25 Car from Continental Hotel to Gizeh .40 Camel to Pyramids (3 hours) .75 Tips .20 3rd day Boulak Museum . f .25 By electric car to Heliopolis Oasis .50 *No guide necessary. 4th day Re-visit Pyramids . 1.60 Arab Museum . . . . .25 Share in drive to Gezireh . .75 5 days at Eden Palace Hotel . 12.50 Share of tips ..... 1.00 Laundry ..... .75 Hotel 'bus and porterage .35 25 05 MlW THE NILE. Monument ticket . . . $6.00 Cab to steamer ... .25 Garry forward, $317.87 82 SECTION II. EGYPT. CURRENCY : Bronze Nickel Ochr-el-guerche $0.0012 1 (millim) -005 5 -025 Silver 2 Piastre .05 2 Piastres .10 5 .25 10 -50 20 1.00 Gold 50 2.50 1 Egyptian Pound 5.00 The English sovereign is common, valued at 97.5 piastres. Paper currency is issued by the National Bank of Egypt. POSTAGE to all countries in Postal Union : Letters, . 1 piastre per ounce. Post-cards, . 5 millims. CAIRO is the town of splendid hotels, but the traveller who desires more modest lodging will be thoroughly comfortable at the Eden Palace or National Hotel. Representatives and carriages of all hotels meet all the trains. Nile water has in some quarters an evil reputation, but is perfectly good and safe. CABS (1 to 3 pers.) 3 piastres for 1 kilometre. 2 each km. additional. By time, 10 for 1 hour. 2 for each ^ hour addi- tional. SECTION II. 83 Brought forward, *7 days on the Nile by Hamburg and Anglo-American Nile Co. From Cairo to Luxor by rail 1st class, 2 1 days stop-over on board of steamer at Luxor,from Luxor to Cairo by tourist steamer; excursions to Karnak, Thebes, Tombs of the Kings, Denderah, Abydos, Beni-Has- san, Memphis, and Sakkarah . Tips to donkey-boys Tips on board Cab to hotel 100.00 2.00 2.50 .25 EXTRA FOR 7 DAYS NILE TRIP $111.00 Various Nile trips are arranged by Cook and the Hamburg- American Co. from the 7 days tour at $100 up to a 20 days tour at $250. Cairo Alexandria, 1st class 2nd class, $2.27 Alexandria Naples by Societa Nazi- onale, 1st class . 2nd class, $32.00 Share of tips Carry forward, Section Exps. $4.50 50.40 1.50 Total. $317.87 56.40 $374.27 84 SECTION II. To Citadel and back (with 1 hour stay), 20 piastres. To Old Cairo (with 1 hour stay), 12-18 piastres. During the season, cabmen sometimes make absurd demands, but the mere mention of karakol (prison) is usually sufficient to make them reasonable. DONKEYS 2 piastres per hour. 12 per day. CAMELS 5 per hour. The prices quoted should be paid without comment. If cab-driver or donkey-boy begins to bluster, the answering formula is " Imshi," which means " Move on." Guides are not really necessary in Cairo, but a traveller making a first visit will be more comfortable with a dragoman for a day or two, till he begins to grow accustomed to the strange streets and Egyptian importunity. Hotel dragomans cost about Si. 50 per day. Note quaint drawings on the houses of Moham- medans who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca. All collections are closed on Fridays. SPECIALTIES. Photographs, Oriental articles, Ara- bian wood-work, real and counterfeit antiquities. Real Antiquities : Boulak Mvueum. Films developed and printed : Heyman & Co., Beside Shepheard's Hotel. SECTION II. 85 Brought forward, Naples to New York, 1st class from 2nd class, $65.00 Steamer-chair .... Share of tips .... TOTAL FOR TEN WEEKS, 1st class travel 2nd class travel OMITTING GBEECE. The traveller may go direct from Naples to Alexandria and curtail the trip by 10 days. The saving effected will be : On 1st class travel and general expenses, $26.50. 2nd 28.15. Section Exps. $80.00 1.00 3.00 Total. S374.27 84.00 $458.27 381.16 SECTION III. AROUND THE WORLD IN EIGHTY DAYS." 88 SECTION III. "Around the World in Eighty Days." It may seem at first sight impossible to make the circle of the world in comfort for less than $500, or in great luxury for $700, but it can be done. Of course, only the briefest glimpses of the various countries are possible, but such glimpses will live long in the memory. The tour is recommended to college boys in vacation time, and any who must travel in quest of health. It is never too warm at sea, nor ever too cold in the tropics. The journey accordingly may be undertaken at any time of the year. As most of the time is spent on board ship, hotel expenses are almost entirely eliminated, and tipping is reduced to a minimum. It is impossible to estimate how much a man will spend on tobacco, beverages, fiction, etc., but all necessary expenses are here detailed. Before long the traveller ought to be on good terms with the steamship officers, and none are more capable of directing a man to the most interesting sights in the ports at which the vessel calls. For information about the various countries visited, see Section IV. ON THE YOYAGE. Never fall into the habit of the multitude of mummifying yourself in a shawl and spending day after day in a steamer-chair. Few travellers take sufficient exercise at sea. Tramp the dock, assist in SECTION III. Travel Expenses, 89 *0ircular ticket by North German Lloyd, Pacific Mail or Toyo Kisen Kaisha, and any direct railway across America, from New York round the world via Gibraltar, Naples, Port Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo, Penang, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, Yokohama, Honolulu, and San Francisco or Vancouver 1st class all the way 2nd class and tourist rail, $415.25 DAY. 1. Leave New York. 10. Arrive Gibraltar. Visit public gardens and fortifi- cations. Drive to Spanish Town , La Linea. Landing and embarkation . Share in drive .... 13. Arrive in Naples. Tips on board . 14. Visit Pompeii. Cabs to and from station Return fare, 2nd class Admission ..... Visit Cathedral, Santa Chiara, S. Domenico Maggiore. Sail at night. 18. Arrive Port Said. Land for glimpse of town. Carryforward, Section Exps. .50 .50 .40 .62 .40 Total. $617.70 1.00 3.00 1.42 $623.12 90 SECTION III. organising sports, play deck-billiards, cricket, and baseball, and you will find the time pass all too quickly. It is to be remembered that voyagers are very much dependent on one another for the happiness of the voyage. A little lack of consideration may bring discomfort on many, and forbearance is in constant demand. A man may choose his friends, but he cannot, as a rule, choose his cabin companions. Adaptability is one of the crowning virtues of an ocean traveller. Somehow or other few people do make themselves disagreeable at sea, but these few are apt to be sent to Coventry in the sternest fashion. Querulousness is unpardonable on a liner. Smoking is strictly forbidden in the staterooms and alleyways. There are ladies sleeping near, and, possibly, passengers struggling valiantly against sea- sickness. Furthermore, fire at sea is exciting, and an event to be carefully avoided. Various rules and regulations are posted up, and must be observed. The master of the ship is an autocrat. The law upholds his authority. And throughout the voyage he must take all measures necessary to insure the safety and discipline of the ship. He and his officers will do all in their power to promote the comfort and happiness of the voyagers, but the voyagers themselves can do much to aid them in this matter. The various officers of the ship may be distinguished by the bands they wear upon the arm. The master has four bands of black mohair or gold, the chief SECTION III. 91 Section Brought forward, DAT. 19. Arrive Suez. 23. Arrive Aden, Visit Bazaars. 24. Pass Socotra. 29. Arrive Colombo, Ceylon. Take rikishas and drive through streets and out by Galle Face Hotel to Victoria Park, . Visit a Hindoo Temple. 34. Arrive Penang. Visit Botanic Gardens and Chinese Temple. Rikishas, ..... 35. Arrive Singapore. Visit the main streets and Chinese Temple. Rikishas, ..... 40. Arrive Hong Kong. Ascend the Peak by electric tram, Rikisha ride to Happy Valley, . 44. Arrive Shanghai. Rikishas to " Bubbling Well " and Temple of Zung Au Aye, Tips, . . . Lunch at Palace Hotel, Hotel Guide to native quarter (SI for 2 persons during afternoon), 46. Sail from Shanghai. Total. $623.12 .50 .80 .80 .25 .50 .50 .25 .75 .50 .50 .80 .80 .75 2.00 Carry foricard, $627.97 92 SECTION III. officer three, the second two, the juniors one. The chief engineer hag two bands of black mohair or gold, with blue between. The purser has two bands of gold, with white between. The surgeon has two bands of black mohair or gold, with red between. The Marconi officer has two bands of black mohair or gold intertwined. The chief steward has two silver bands ; the second has one. SEA-SICKNESS is the tragedy of an ocean voyage, but there is nothing in the visitation of which the traveller need feel ashamed. It may happen to the best of men. It is neither unworthy nor effeminate. It is a misfortune, but no crime. This, because it is just the curious sense of shame a voyager conjures up over the malady that retards his recovery. Fresh air is essential. To lurk down below out of sight merely prolongs the agony. The wise man laughs and gets it over. The cause of the trouble is simply in the inability of a complex organism to adapt itself at once to new conditions. When subjected to a curious combination of rolling, pitching, and scending, the various parts of the system grow bewildered, as it were, and fail to perform their usual functions in harmony. The central nervous system falters and momentarily loses control. The revolt, however, is brief. The organs will try hard to adapt themselves and work together again as usual. Keep on deck. Breathe deeply of the healing sea- air. And, above all, eat a little at first, a dry biscuit or an apple, till the inner man begins to damour anew for red meat. SECTION HI. 93 Brought forward, DAY. 47. Arrive Nagasaki. Take rikisha ride through the town, and out to Mogi, . 49. Arrive Kobe. Visit Damascene and Satsuma Works, and Ju-jitsu School. Rikisha, 51. Arrive Yokohama. Tips on board, 52. Visit Benten-dori, Motomachi, Tea- house of 100 steps, etc. Wel- come Society's Guide-book, 53. Excursion to Kamakura Return fare, 1st class .... Visit Temples of Kwannon and Hachiman, and the great bronze Buddha. Tips Lunch -v . Rikishas to and from station 54. Wright's Hotel, 3 days . Tips To Tokyo Return fare Visit Shiba and Ueno Parks and Temples, and Mikado's Palace. Rikisha . Lunch . Admissions and tips . Proceed to Nikko Tokyo-Nikko return fare, 1st class Carryforward, Section Exps. $1.00 .50 .38 .60 .40 .75 .20 7.50 .50 .75 1.00 .75 .30 3.40 Total. $627.97 1.00 .50 4.00 S633.47 94 SECTION III. Various specifics are lauded Antipyrin, Bismuth, Bromide of Sodium or Potassium, Cocaine, Brandy. Let them alone. MEALS ON SHIPBOARD : Coffee and fruit, 6 a.m. to 7 a.m. Breakfast, . 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. Lunch, . . 1 p.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner, . . 7 p.m. The deck-steward serves bouillon on deck at 11 a.m. and afternoon tea at 4 p.m. Otherwise meals are not served on deck or in the state-rooms, except in cases of illness. A BARBER is attached to every liner. BOOTS and SHOES will be polished if set outside the cabin door at night. STATIONERY and STAMPS may be obtained from the saloon-steward. Never trouble the purser for such things. TIPS should be given to state-room steward or stewardess, waiter, deck-steward, bath-boy, and boots, according to service rendered. It is a good rule to retain your tip for the cabin-steward till he has set all your cabin baggage safely ashore. Where the stewards are Hindoo, Chinese, or Japanese, the tips are much smaller. THE MARCONI WIRELESS SYSTEM has been installed on all passenger liners. Notices are posted from time to time advising passengers of the stations with which the ship is in communication, and newspapers recording the most important events are issued daily. SECTION III. 95 Brought forward, DAY. 55. Visit sacred Red Bridge, Temples, Waterfalls. Temple admissions Guide to temples ($1 for 2 persons) 56. 2 days at Kanaya Hotel, Nikko Tips Rikisha from and to station Rikisha at Tokyo from Ueno to Shimbashi . 67. 1 day at Wright's Hotel, Yokohama Tips Rikisha to steamer Sail for San Francisco. 67. Arrive Honolulu. Trolley to Waikiki Surf-bathing . Aquarium ..... 68. Leave Honolulu. 74. Arrive San Francisco. Tips on board, Visit Golden Gate Park, Museum, Seal Rocks. Lunch at Cliff House . . Cars ...... Leave at night for New York. Pullman berth (tourist, $7.60) . Food on train .... Tips 80. Arrive New York. TOTAL 1st class travel, 2nd class travel, . Section Exps. 580.40 .50 8.00 1.00 .20 .40 2.50 .50 .10 .10 .25 .50 1.00 .20 15.20 10.00 1.50 $633.47 $696.35 486.30 SECTION IV. THE HIGHWAY ROUND THE WORLD. 98 SECTION IV. The Highway Round the World. Passengers have the privilege of breaking their journey at all ports of call and places of interest, but it is well to map out the tour at the beginning, so that at least the sailing days for the principal voyages may be determined and berths booked long in advance. Have accommodation reserved by a certain vessel on a certain date : 1. From New York to Naples or Southampton, or from Boston to Glasgow. 2. From Naples or Port Said to Colombo. 3. From Calcutta to Singapore. 4. From Singapore to Hong Kong. 5. From Hong Kong to Yokohama. 6. From Yokohama to San Francisco. The tourist may leave indefinite his dates of departure from other places without danger of being held up through lack of accommodation. SEASON. -A tour round the world, lasting from 6 to 9 months, should invariably begin in the fall, in order that the traveller may reach the Red Sea, Ceylon, India, and Burmah in the cool weather. It is wise, moreover, to proceed eastwards, for Egypt is SECTION IV. 99 Travel Expenses. *N.D.L. Tour: From New York via Naples, Port Said, Suez, Aden, to Colombo by N.D.L. steamer ; from Calcutta via Rangoon and Penang to Singapore by B.I. steamer ; from Singapore to Hong Kong by N.D.L. steamer ; from Hong Kong via Shanghai, Nagasaki, and Kobe to Yokohama by N.D.L., Pacific Mail, or Toyo Kisen Kaisha steamer ; from Yokohama via Honolulu to San Francisco by Pacific Mail or Toyo Kisen Kaisha steamer ; from San Francisco to New York by any direct route. 1st class all the way 2nd class (tourist in America), $415.26. From Colombo to Bombay, via Tuticorin and Madras, or direct by P. & 0. or B.I. steamer : 1st class 2nd class, $22.00. From Bombay to Calcutta, via Baroda, Ahmedabad, Abu Road (for Mt. Abu), Ajmer, Jaipur, Delhi, Agra, Cawn- pore, Lucknow, and Benares : 1st class 2nd class, $23.70. Carry forward, Section Exps. SS617.70 38.70 47.70 Total. $704.10 $704.10 100 SECTION IV. most comfortable in December and January, India most interesting in February and March, and Japan most fascinating in April and May. CLOTHING. Every type of climate will be en- countered. There is no need, however, to provide much outer clothing of a light texture. As soon as the traveller reaches tropical countries he will be besieged by native tailors eager to supply the need. White drill suits may be obtained in this way from $4, and it is amazing how quickly and how well the work is done. Ladies have a large choice in cotton and silk materials. A dark foulard will be found most useful in tropical travel. Between Egypt and Hong Kong no hat is worn by man or woman but the sola topee. For the rest of the trip it is well to use some simple headgear that may be easily stowed away. In the East it is customary to dress for dinner, both aboard and ashore. Ladies should take light evening dress and gentlemen a Tuxedo. Steamer rug and overcoat are necessary for ocean voyages and night-travel in India. It is not necessary to take a large supply of linen. Laundry-work is done on all steamers and at any hotel in which the traveller remains for two days. BAGGAGE should be limited to a steamer trunk (36 x 24 x 15), a suit case, and hold-all or shawl-strap. PASSPORTS : American citizens do not require pass- SECTION IV. 101 Brought forward, *This rate will be little altered if the passenger takes Allan Line one class cabin service to Glasgow and rejoins N.D.L. at Naples. N.D.L. allows $50 to those providing their own Atlantic passage. Expenses between Glasgow and Naples may be computed easily from Sections I. and II. Travellers providing their ovm passage between Naples and Port Said are allowed $21.40. Fare by N.D.L. steamer Southampton to Naples, 1st class, $21.40. The passenger may book as above, con- tinue by N.D.L. steamer to Genoa, and tour Italy as in Section II. Saturday N.D.L. steamer sails from New York. Nine days on Atlantic. Monday Arrive Gibraltar. Landing and embarkation . Drive to La Linea in Spain Visit Public Gardens and Fortifica- tions. Four days on Mediterranean. Friday Arrive Naples. Shave of tips ..... Carryforward, Section Exps. .50 .50 Total. $704.10 1.00 3.00 $708.10 102 SECTION IV. ports in any country treated in this handbook, but may find them useful for identification purposes. (See page 150.) STEAMEE-CHAIRS of the cheap folding variety should be purchased before sailing. HEALTH. The highway round the woiid is quite as healthy as America. Danger only begins when a man haunts the native quarters of India and China, or gropes his way into the wilds of the Malay States or Sumatra. A good plan is to make from the varied travel - literature which the steamship agency will supply a small scrap-book of information about such places as Gibraltar, Algiers, Aden, Penang, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Hawaii. A distinct bargain should always be made at hotels as to pension price, and lower terms than are here quoted may often be obtained out of season. PORT SAID is famed for ostrich feathers. SUEZ CANAL is traversed in some 16 hours. It is 100 miles long, 240 feet broad, and 28 feet deep. There are nine sidings which enable vessels to pass. ADEN is an important coaling station with little to attract visitors except the diving boys, bazaars, and vendors of curios and ostrich feathers. Passengers land by Company's tender. SECTION IV. 103 Section Exps. Total. Brought forward, S708.10 Transfer to N.D.L. China Line, sailing fortnightly, Friday night. Four days on Mediterranean. Tuesday Arrive Port Said. Land for a glimpse of town. *The journey can be broken at Port Said for a visit to Egypt, as in Section II. Wednesday Passage through Suez Canal. Arrive Suez in evening. Three days on E,ed Sea. Sunday Arrive Aden. Visit Bazaars. Monday Pass Socotra. Six days on Indian Ocean. Laundry ...... SI .00 Contribution to sports and share of tips ....... 4.50 5.50 Saturday Arrive Colombo. Murray's Guide to India and Ceylon . 5.00 Porterage and rikisha to hotel . .20 Baggage transport .... .20 Sola Topee ..... 1.60 Share of drive to Mt. Lavinia . 1.50 *Passengers may spend one day or a fortnight in Ceylon and proceed by N.D.L. steamer to Singapore. Carryforward, S713.60 104 SECTION IV. INDIA AND CEYLON. CURRENCY : Copper, 1 pie (^ anna). 1 pice ( anna). anna . . . $0.01 Nickel, 1 anna . . .02 Silver, 2 annas ... .04 4 annas . . . '08 8 annas . . . .16 1 rupee (16 annas) . .32 Gold, sovereign . . 2.50 1 sovereign . . 5.00 The currency notes in circulation are for amounts of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 rupees and upwards. All hotels in India provide small handbooks of the vicinity, but it is advisable to procure Murray's hand- book to India and Ceylon for its excellent articles on the Mutiny, Mohammedanism, Buddhism, Hinduism, etc. NATIVE SERVANTS should never be engaged under any circumstances while the traveller keeps to the beaten track. They are not permitted to enter the dining-room of the modern hotel, and they are of no value as guides. RAILWAY COMPARTMENTS are large and roomy, fitted with electric lights and fans and baths. A compartment may be reserved for three passengers. The berths are excellent, and the average passenger SECTION IV. 105 Brought forward, The tour will be curtailed by three or five weeks, and the saving in expense will be : Fares $86.40 ; general expenses as under, Jess expense entailed by stay in Ceylon. Sunday Visit Gardens and explore Colombo. Rikishas ...... Monday Two days in Galle Face Hotel Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Rikisha to station .... Colombo to Kandy, return fare, 1st class ....... Rikisha to hotel .... Meal on train and tip Tuesday Drive round the lake, Lady Horton's Drive, visit " Temple of the Tooth " and Peradeniya Spice Gardens. Drive and tips ..... Guide in Gardens .... One day in Firs Hotel Lunch on train ..... Dinner in Colombo .... Rikishas to hotel and wharf, and porterage ...... Baggage transport .... Carryforward, Section Exps. $0.50 11.00 1.00 .50 .16 3.00 .08 .60 1.35 .32 3.30 .60 1.00 .30 .20 106 SECTION IV. will find a rug and pillow quite sufficient for night travel. Each traveller must provide his own soap and towels. The baggage-checking system is similar to that in U.S.A. When there is no dining-car the train stops at intervals for 15 or 20 minutes to admit of meals. The traveller need have no anxiety about time in the station restaurants, as the train-conductor conscien- tiously hunts up all his charges before giving the signal to start. A party of eight can reserve a whole carriage, have it detached from the train where they please, and lodge in it for a very small charge per day, WATER must be avoided in India, but all hotels provide iced tea or coffee on request. CONVEYANCES are of two classes, in some towns three, but it is advisable to keep to the first. They are very cheap, averaging about 12 annas per hour, or 5 rupees per day, all over India. COLOMBO. Steamers anchor about half-mile from shore, and passengers are landed by Company's tender. Several steamship lines offer opportunity to proceed direct by sea to Bombay. A railway journey in the south of India is never pleasant, and the N.-W. Provinces offer most of interest to the tourist. Pearls should not be bought in Ceylon. Practically SECTION IV. 107 Brought forward, Two and a half days coasting to Bombay. Share of tips to cabin, bath, and table stewards ...... Friday Arrive Bombay. Porterage ...... Share in carriage to hotel . Tips Visit Apollo Bandar and main streets. Saturday Take carriage for day (5 rupees for 2 persons) .... Visit native streets and stores, Malabar Hill, and Towers of Silence. Sunday Visit Art Museum and Victoria Gardens. Carriage .... Monday Caves of Elephanta. Bandar- boat ....... Admission and tip . Three days at Taj Mahal Hotel . Share of tips ..... Pillow for train ..... Carriage to station, porterage, and tips . Leave Bombay 9. p.m. Tuesday rBreakfast at Ahmedabad Porterage ...... Arrive Abu Road about noon. Lunch Carryforward, Section Exps. .16 .16 .32 .80 .32 .80 .16 10.56 .64 .32 .32 .48 .08 .52 108 SECTION IV. all are brought from the Arabian Gulf, and they may be purchased much more cheaply in Bombay. For CARRIAGE and RIKISHA FARES see the Pocket Time and Fare Table published by Government, 4 cents. CUSTOMS EXAMINATION. Before arrival at Bombay passengers will receive a Customs' Declaration Form. It should be filled up carefully and returned to the purser. Baggage of bona fide passengers, with the exception of arms and ammunition, is exempt from duty at Bombay. BOMBAY. Travellers are landed by launch with hand-baggage only. Heavy baggage follows im- mediately. The best hotels, Taj Mahal, Majestic, Great Western, and Apollo, are within a very short drive of the jetty. The excursion to Elephantas by steam launch costs 10 rupees per passenger, but a sailing boat, accommo- dating 10 persons, may be hired at the Apollo Bandar for 5 rupees. ABU ROAD. Passengers proceed by tonga to Mount Abu (17 miles). Tonga (3 pers.), 10 rupees ; per seat, 4 rupees. The manager of Rajputana Hotel will make all arrangements for a visit to Dilwara Temple. JAIPUR is the finest native town in India, and the seat of a Maharaja. SECTION IV. 109 Brought forward, To Mt. Abu by tonga. Return fare Wednesday Visit Dilwara Temple. Rikishas ... Admission and tips . One day at Rajputana Hotel Dinner at Abu Road .... Leave by night train Thursday Breakfast at Palinpur . Arrive Jaipur about noon. Share of carriage to hotel, and porterage ...... Drive to Maharajah's Palace and stables, and through main streets. (Carriage for half -day, 2| rupees) Guide for half-day (2 rupees for 2 persons) ...... Tips Friday Elephant excursion to Amber, tips, etc. Guide for day (3 rupees for 2 pers.) . Visit School of Art, Observatory, Museum, Zoological Gardens. Car- riage. ...... One-and-a-half days in Jaipur Hotel . Share of tips "" .... Carriage to station, and porterage Leave by late train. Carry forward, Section Exps. $2.20 .64 .16 2.24 .52 .52 .12 .48 .32 .16 2.00 .48 .48 2.88 .64 .48 $762.09 $776.93 110 SECTION IV. The manager of Jaipur Hotel will make all necessary arrangements for an elephant excursion to Amber. A guide may be hired at the hotel, 3 rupees per day, 2 rupees per half -day. It is always easy to see a native wedding procession in February or March, and the white man is welcomed to the temple during the pre-nuptial ceremonies. These consist in giving and receiving of gifts, sprink- ling with rose-water, anointing of the bridegroom, nautch dancing, etc. DELHI : Representatives of all hotels meet the trains. The chief interest of Delhi lies in its Mutiny associations. (See Murray's Handbook.) Maiden's Metropolitan Hotel. Rates from 8 Rupees per day. (See Advert. ) Silver Embroideries, etc. Kishen Chand, Chandni Chowk, Delhi. A good little guide book is presented by Maiden's Hotel. AGRA. Passengers arrive at Fort Station, and leave from Cantonment Station for Cawnpore. The city is intensely interesting because of the famous Taj Mahal and the Mughal buildings within the Fort. CAWNPOEE and LUCKNOW, like Delhi, are of great historical interest. The former has very little to show, but an afternoon in the Residency of Lucknow, SECTION IV. Ill Brought forward, Saturday Arrive Delhi 8.45 a.m. Share in carriage to hotel, and porterage ...... Carriage for day (5 rupees for 2 pers.) Guide for day (3 rupees for 2 pers). . Visit Mughal Fort and Palace, and Jama Mosque ; the Ridge, and places of Mutiny interest. Tips . Sunday St. James' Church, Queen's Gardens. Drive through Old Delhi, visiting Asoka's Pillar, the Fort, Humayun's Mausoleum, and the Dargah. Carriage and guide for day Tips ... Monday Two days at Maiden's Hotel . Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Leave by early train. Carriage and porterage ...... Arrive Agra about noon. Engage carriage for afternoon (2 rupees for 2 pers.) .... Porterage Guide (2 rupees for 2 pers.) Visit Fort, Pearl Mosque, and Taj Mahal. Tips Carry forward, Section Exps. .20 .80 .48 .32 1.28 .32 5.12 .64 .75 .20 .32 .08 .32 .32 $776.93 S787.04 112 SECTION IV. under the guidance of a Mutiny veteran, will nevei be forgotten. No native guide is necessary. BENARES is the Mecca of India. Hundreds of thousands annually make a pilgrimage to the city tc bathe in the sacred river. A guide is absolutely essential for a visit to the various temples. There are some 2,000 from which to make a selection. The most sacred places are the Durga Temple, crowded with chattering monkeys; the Golden Temple, sacred to the god of poisons ; the Well of Knowledge, the Holy of Holies, in which dwells the god Shiva, and the Temple of Annapurna, the special haunt of beggars. An excellent idea of Benares may be obtained from Mark Twain's " More Tramps Abroad." Typical Benares lies on the water-front feasts and bathes, and drinks and begs, lives and is burnt. It is this that makes the Ganges at Benares one of the great sights of the world. A river boat may be hired for 2 or 3 rupees per hour, and the tourist will drift quietly down the sacred river in the morning, past the bathing ghats, where myriads of pilgrims are being purified, and the great burning ghats, where many pyres are ablaze at once ; past the suttee-pillars and the great temples. It is an excursion of unfailing interest, however long it may be continued. If the traveller has the good fortune to visit Benares during the Carnival or the festival of Burwa SECTION IV. 113 Brought forward, Tuesday Carriage and guide Drive to Sikandara. Re-visit Taj Mahal. One-and-a-quarter days at Cecil Hotel Share of tips ..... Carriage and porterage Leave by afternoon train for Cawnpore. Carriage and porterage Wednesday Carriage for morning (2| rupees for 2 pers.) .... Drive to Memorial Well and Memorial Church. One day at Civil and Military Hotel . Share of tips ..... Carriage and porterage Leave 1.55 p.m. Arrive Lucknow 3.40 p.m. Carriage and porterage Visit Residency. Drive and tips Thursday Room and breakfast at Wutzler's Royal Hotel Share of tips ..... Carriage and porterage Leave by morning train. Lunch on train ..... Gan'y fwward, Section Exps. S0.64 3.20 .48 .20 .20 .40 1.60 .32 .20 20 .64 1.60 .32 .20 .52 114 SECTION IV. Mangal in March, he will spend most of the night on the river among gaily-lighted barges, on which the elite of Benares revels, with nautch- dancing, feasting, and song. BENARES. CLARK'S HOTEL maintains its reputation for comfort and cleanliness. Entirely under European management. Cook's Hotel coupons accepted. C. V. CLARK, Proprietress. CALCUTTA, though the greatest city in India, is best known because of the tragedy of "the Black Hole" in 1756. Only a tablet is now to be seen, marking the site of the old prison. After a visit to Jaipur and Benares the traveller will find little of interest in Calcutta. A stroll on the Esplanade is interesting because of the gorgeous display made by native potentates. Best hotels are the Grand Hotel and the Great Eastern. The British India steamer leaves for Rangoon early on Sunday morning. The hotel porter will arrange for comfortable transport to the wharf. SECTION IV. 115 Brought forward, Arrive Benares 2.48 p.m. Carriage and porterage Visit Durga Temple, Golden Temple, Mosque of Aurangzeb, Well of Know- ledge, etc. Carriage and guide for afternoon Friday Visit bathing and burning ghats. Carriage and guide for morning Boat on Ganges .... Tips One day at Clark's Hotel . Share of tips ..... Carriage and porterage Leave Benares 2.45 p.m. Dinner on train .... Porterage at Moghul Serai Saturday Arrive Calcutta 7.36 a.m. Carriage and porterage Carriage for day (5 rupees for 2 pers.) Visit site of " Black Hole," Zoological Gardens, Indian Museum, etc. Admissions and tips .... Sunday One day at Great Eastern Hotel Share of tips Carriage and porterage Laundry ...... Carry forward. Section Exps. $0.20 1.28 1.28 .48 .32 2.56 .32 .20 .64 .16 .20 .80 .64 3.20 .32 .32 .75 116 SECTION IV. BURMAH. CURRENCY same as India. The favourite amusement of the Burmans is the Pwe, which may be either a marionette entertainment, or a type of ballet, with music and song. Pwes may be seen in any large town on any moonlight night, and are free and open to all. RANGOON. The steamer anchors in the Irawaddy on Tuesday afternoon. Passengers for Singapore spend the night on board, are transferred on Wednes- day to another steamer, and sail for Singapore on Thursday afternoon. The principal objects of interest in and around Rangoon are the pagodas, the bazaars, and the timber-yards where elephants are used to pile teak. Sampans hover continually around the steamers. The price for .landing is 2 annas. Conveyances may be hired for 1 rupees per hour, Burmese girls will be seen in the streets smoking the " whackin' white cheroot," a cigarette from six inches to a foot in length and an inch in diameter. Temple bells may be purchased at the pagodas for a rupee. The " durian," rendered famous by Mark Twain, is obtainable in Rangoon about the end of March. The odour is very disagreeable, but it is reputed to be the most delicate and delicious fruit of the tropics. SECTION IV. 117 Brought forward, Sail by B.I. steamer for Rangoon. Two days in Bay of Bengal. Tuesday Arrive Rangoon. Share tips on board .... of *Through passengers remain on board. *Frorn Rangoon a side-trip may be made to Mandalay. Rail to Mandalay and steamer to Rangoon, eight days. 1st class . . . $32.00 2nd class, $17.25. Wednesday Leave Rangoon 11 a.m. Thursday Arrive Mandalay 7.20 a.m. Visit the Fort, Palace, Arakan Pagoda, Queen's Golden Monastery, and other pagodas and temples. Tips, carriage, hire, and guides 8.20 Five days at Gale's Hotel . 11.20 Laundry .... .64 Tuesday Sail for Rangoon. Sunday Arrive Rangoon. Four days at Strand Hotel . 12.80 Drives and tips . . . 3.84 EXTRA Two WEEKS for. .$68.68 Cwrry forward, Section Exps. $0.96 Total. $812.47 .96 $813.43 118 SECTION IV. PENANG is somewhat like Ceylon in its tropical beauty, and the rikisha ride to the gardens is some- thing to remember. CURRENCY. The Mexican dollar, worth 50 cents, sub-divided as the U.S. dollar, each coin being worth exactly half the corresponding coin in America. Indian currency is readily accepted. Sampan rates 20 cents (Mex.) for landing or embarkation. Rikisha rates 10 cents (Mex.) for a short drive. 40 per hour. SPECIALTIES. Opals, Mandarin dresses and em- broideries, carvings in ebony and ivory. SINGAPORE, curiously enough, has an evil reputation in the West. The only theory I can advance to account for this is that many wanderers who have made detours into the fever-haunted regions of the Malay States, Java, and Sumatra, have reached Singapore before the evil effects were felt. As a matter of fact, the climate is delightful, the hotels luxurious, the drinking water excellent. CURRENCY and RIKISHA RATES as in Penang. POSTAL RATES to all countries in Postal Union : Letters, . 10 cents (Mex.) per 15 grammes. Postcards, . 4 ,, SECTION IV. 119 Brought forward, Wednesday Land by sampan, and visit Shwe Dagon Pagoda and Sule Pagoda. Carriage . ... Sampans ...... Thursday Land by sampan to see elephants at work in teak-yards. Sampans ...... Sail for Singapore. Sunday Arrive Penang. Landing and embarkation by sampan . Rikisha to Botanic Gardens Monday Sampans . Rikisha to Chinese Temple, and tip . Sail in afternoon. Wednesday Arrive Singapore. Share of tips on board Rikisha to hotel .... Baggage transport .... Rikisha for day .... Drive through streets and round the Gap. Thursday Rikisha for day . Visit Chinese temple. Tips Visit China-town. Drive by shore and through rubber plantations to "Honey- moon Lodge." Carryforward, Section Exps. $0.24 .08 .08 .20 .60 .20 .60 .96 .15 .20 .75 .75 .10 Total. 813.43 .40 1.60 S815.43 120 SECTION IV. Visitors are always welcomed to the Chinese temples. A priest will act as guide, present a package of fireworks, which must be exploded to ward off evil spirits, and probably offer tea. It is customary to give the priest 20 cents. All kinds of strange frtdt may be sampled in Singapore durian, jumbo, chico, popoi, pumeloe, mango, etc. The best hotels are Raffles' Hotel and the Hotel de 1' Europe. Rates about $10 (Mex.) per day. SPECIALTY. Malacca canes. CHINA. CURRENCY. The Mexican dollar and sub-divisions. Notes are used in various values by all the leading banks. The tael, which is a weight of silver, is only used in large commercial and financial transactions. Strings of " cash " (about 1000 to the dollar) are used by the natives, but these little coins will not interest the tourist except as curios. RIKISHA RATES same as Penang. SEDAN CHAIRS are common. Rate for a short ride, 10 cents to each coolie. " PIDGIN- ENGLISH " is in constant use in China, and of real value in dealings with the natives. Put the object of the sentence first, use only the nominative case of personal pronouns, discard grammar, keep to SECTION IV. 121 Brought forward, Friday Two days at Raffles' Hotel Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Rikisha to steamer .... Baggage transport .... Sail for Hong Kong. Five days on China Sea. Wednesday Arrive Hong Kong. Share of tips on board Laundry ...... Hong Kong Hotel is within two minutes' walk of landing-stage. Baggage transport .... Drive through streets and out to Happy Valley. Rikishas . Thursday Ascend the Peak Electric car ....... One day at Hong Kong Hotel . Dinner ...... Cook's excursion to Canton and Macau (1st class), fares, guides, rikishas, and Sedan chairs ..... Rikisha to steamer .... Friday At Canton. Visit Temple of 500 Genie, stores of ivory-carving and lacquer- work, Joss houses, Old Wall, etc. Lunch ...... Carry forward, . Section Expe. S10.00 .75 1.25 .15 .20 3.00 .50 .20 .38 .30 3.00 1.00 11.00 .10 .75 122 SECTION IV. monosyllables, and use "my" for "me." Thus, " fetchme a rikisha " becomes " rikisha bringee my," " tell him " is "talkee he." "Savvy?" means "do you under- stand ? " " Can do " means " all right," " no can do " is the negative. Travellers will easily acquire a know- ledge of this wonderful vernacular from a glossary obtainable at any book-store. HONG KONG. There is no Customs examination. Representatives of the hotels board all steamers on arrival and arrange for baggage transfer. Race week in Happy Yalley in February is a gala time in Hong Kong. The most interesting sight is the annual ceremony of " sweeping the graves of ancestors," early in April. The excursion to Canton and Macau is so com- plicated that it is well to leave all the arrangement to Thos. Cook & Son. In the native quarters are tea-houses of grotesque architecture, and even more grotesque entertainment. The opium divans have been closed, except in the Portuguese settlement of Macau. A Chinese theatre is well worth a visit. As there is little stage scenery, there is unlimited opportunity for the exercise of gesture, posturing, and implication on the part of the actors. Various stage-properties are represented by supers, who walk on with sign-boards indicating the SECTION IV. 123 Brought forward, Saturday At Macau. Visit opium and firework factories, Camoen's Grotto, Chinese House, and gambling den. Lunch at Bonavista Hotel . Arrive Hong Kong in evening. Sunday Visit Botanic Gardens, Aviary, etc. Monday Rikisha for day Explore Hong Kong and environs. Tuesday Three days at Hong Kong Hotel Share of tips ..... Laundry ...... Baggage transport .... Sail for Yokohama. SIDE TRIP TO MANILA 7 days. Return fare, 1st class Three days at Hotel Metropole . Share of tips and rikishas Laundry Visit the old Cathedrals and Monasteries, and the quaint old world of the walled city. $44.10 9.00 3.00 .50 Extra for Manila . $56.60 Carryforward, Section Exps. SS0.75 .75 9.00 1.00 .50 .20 Total. $834.19 28.93 $863.12 124 SECTION IV. object they represent : " This is a house-boat on the river, " This is a bullock in the distance," etc. SPECIALTIES. Carvings in teakwood, ivory, and jade, grass cloth, silk, embroideries, rattan work, Mandarin dresses. Silke and Embroideries : Yee Sing& Co., 16 Des Vceux Road, Central, Hong Kong. Kodak films developed and printed : A. Ling ft Co. , 19 Queen's Road, Hong Kong. MANILA. CURRENCY same as in U.S.A. All purchases made in Manila may be sent to U.S.A. duty free. SPECIALTIES. Manila hats and embroideries. SHANGHAI. The steamer anchors in the Yangtszekiang, and passengers are taken by Company's tender 12 miles up the Whangpoo river to the town. The river is of great interest, abounding in shipping of all nations, and in multitudes of junks and sampans. At Soochow Creek the visitor has a glimpse of Chinese river-life. Myriads of natives spend all their days on small sampans. They form a different class from the landsmen, and are born, live, marry, and die on the river. A guide, who may be procured from any hotel at SECTION IV. 125 Brought forward, Three days at sea. Friday Arrive Shanghai. Drive on the Bund to Soochow Creek, and out by Bubbling Well Road to Temple of Zung Au Aye. Rikisha ...... Tips . ... Lunch at Palace Hotel . . Hotel Guide ($1 during afternoon for 2 persons) ...... Visit native quarter. Saturday Leave Shanghai Sunday Arrive Nagasaki. Take rikisha for day .... Visit Japanese Temple and drive out to Mogi. Tips Monday On Inland Sea. Arrive Kobe in evening. Tuesday Visit stores of Damascene and Satsuma work and Ju-jitsu School. Rikisha Thursday Arrive Yokohama. Share of tips on board Laundry Wright's Hotel is close to landing-stage. Carry foi'ward, Section Exps. .50 .25 .75 .50 .75 .25 .50 1.50 .75 Total. $863.12 2.00 1.00 .50 2.25 $868.87 126 SECTION IV. $2 (Mex.) for the afternoon, is absolutely necessary for a visit to the native quarter. JAPAN. CURRENCY : Copper 1 rin 55 5 55 1 sen (10 rin) JS0.005 55 2 .01 Silver 5 .025 55 10 .05 ii 20 .10 55 50 .25 5 1 yen (100 sen) .50 Gold 5 2.50 a 10 5.00 5> 20 10.00 The paper currency, bank-notes of 1 yen and upwards, is most used. POSTAGE bo all countries in Postal Union : Letters, . 1 sen per 1 5 grammes. Postcards . 4 sen. GUIDES are imnecessary in the principal towns. RIKISHA RATES : 10 sen for a short drive. 30 sen per hour. 1 yen per half -day. 1| yen per day. SECTION IV. 127 Brought forward, Baggage transport .... Welcome Society's Guide-book . Rikisha drive round Kwan-nai . Friday Rikisha for day Visit Temple of Fudo, O San No Miya, Zotokuin Temple, and Tea-house of 100 steps. Japanese tea ..... Visit Benten-dori, Honcho-dori, and other main streets. Saturday- -Visit Kamakura Bikishas to and from station Fare, Yokohama-Kamakura, 1st class return ...... Rikisha for day .... Visit the Great Bronze Buddha and the Temples of Hachiman and Kwan- non. Lunch at Kamakura Hotel Drive out to Enoshima, and visit Cave of Benten. Sunday In Yokohama. Monday Four days at Wright's Hotel . Share of tips ..... Yokohama-Tokyo-Nikko, and return 1st class ..... Rikisha to station .... Rikisha at Tokyo for afternoon . Lunch at Imperial Hotel. Carryforward, Section Exps. Total. 8868.87 $0.20 .38 .20 .75 .15 .20 .60 .75 .75 10.00 1.00 4.15 .10 .50 S868.87 128 SECTION IV. CUSTOM-HOUSE. No formal entry of personal effects is necessary, and the inspection is very lenient. NAGASAKI. An excellent idea of Japanese country life may be obtained on a rikisha ride to Mogi. Note the children playing in the Buddhist Temple and receiving gifts of dolls and kites. The coaling of the steamer by hundreds of girls and women is an absorbing sight, but a little startling and depressing to a Westerner. Nagasaki is famed for tortoise-shell. THE INLAND SEA, which extends for some 200 miles, is the most picturesque stretch of enclosed ocean in the world. The ship threads the narrowest channels among green islets which show the strangest assort- ment of things typically Japanese rice fields and cherry-blossom, castles, shrines, quaint bridges, terraced hills. All around are sampans, junks, and fishing-boats. KOBE has a wonderfully equipped school of ju-jitsu and fencing. SPECIALTIES. Damascene and Satsuma work, cloisonne, and tapestry. KYOTO may be reached by rail from Kobe in 1 hour 40 minutes. (Fares 1st, yen 1.95; 2nd, yen 1.17.) The cherry-dance is celebrated in Kyoto every night during April. SECTION IV. 129 Brought forward, Visit Shiba Park, Zojoji Temple, Mausoleums of the Shoguns, the great Bazaar, Temple of the 47 Ronins, and the grounds of the Mikado's Palace. Tips Tuesday One day at Imperial Hotel , Share of tips ..... Rikisha for morning .... Visit Ueno Park, Imperial Museum, Zoological Garden, Fine Art School, Daibutsu, and Toshugu Shrine. Tips Leave by afternoon train for Nikko. Rikisha to hotel .... Wednesday: Temple ticket . Hotel guide ($1 for 2 pers.) Visit Sacred Bridge, Hongu Temple, Hall of the Three Buddhas, 5-storied Pagoda, Futa-ara Temple. Mausoleum of lemitsu. Thursday : Climb Daikoku Hill. Visit Takinoo Temple and Somen Falls. Friday Visit Gamman-ga-fuchi, Jakko Cascades, and Avenue of Cryptomerias. Saturday 4 days at Kanaya Hotel Tips . . (Hotel provides lunch for train.) Rikisha in Tokyo from Ueno to Shimbashi ...... Carry forward, Section Exps. $0.30 5.50 .50 .50 .40 .15 .40 .50 16.00 1.00 .40 Total. $868.87 $868.87 130 SECTION IV. YOKOHAMA. Representatives of all hotels board the steamers. Hotel rates are high, but excellent accommodation may be obtained at Wright's Hotel for 5 yen per day. Chinese tailors in Yokohama are very good. Photography is prohibited within six miles of the fortifications at Kamakura. Porters, called akabo or " red-cap," are on duty at every station-entrance and platform. The rate for each porter is 2 sen (1 cent!) whatever may be the rate and number of packages carried. Embroideries may be purchased at absurdly small prices from the native women who frequent all hotels. Admission to Art Galleries, Zoological Collections, Museums, etc., in Japan varies from 2 to 5 sen. The hotel porter will make all arrangements for a visit to the Yaomasa Teahouse, where a tourist may partake of a Japanese dinner and see the Geisha dance. Japanese epic dramas are staged at Kirakusa Theatre. Foreigners are welcomed, and special seats are reserved for them. NIKKO is a dreamlike place of forest-shades and lofty avenues, waterfalls, and world-famous shrines and temples. The massed azaleas in spring are almost startling in their profusion of colour. " Do not say kekko (beautiful) before you have seen Nikko, " say the Japanese. SECTION IV. Brought forward, Kikisha to hotel .... *During the succeeding six days the traveller will find sufficient to interest him in and around Yokohama. Bikishas ...... Tips Japanese Theatre .... Japanese dinner and Geisha dance Seven days at Wright's Hotel . Tips Laundry ...... Rikisha to steamer .... Baggage transport .... Saturday Sail from Yokohama. Ten days on Pacific. Monday Arrive Honolulu. Trolley to Waikiki .... Surf-bathing ..... Aquarium ..... Tuesday Leave Honolulu. Six days at sea. Monday Arrive San Francisco. Tips on board, and contribution to Sports ...... Laundry ...... *Check any heavy baggage through to destination. Visit Golden Gate Park, Museum, Seal Rocks. Carry forward, . . . Section Exps. .10 3.00 1.00 1.00 2.00 17.50 1.50 1.50 .10 .20 .10 .25 .50 5.00 1.50 132 SECTION IV. SPECIALTIES OF JAPAN. Kimonos, painted crepes, fans, lanterns, lacquer work, satsuma, silks and embroi- deries of all kinds. Kimonos, Fans, Obis, etc. : G. Parsram, 164a Yamashita-cho, Yokohama. Kodak films developed and printed : Hotei & Co. 36 Water Street, Yokohama. The voyage across the Pacific is invariably enjoyable. The steamers are large and luxurious. The big ball- deck is screened in daily for indoor baseball, sports and dances are organized, and the libraries are good. On the vessels of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha Japanese plays and cinematograph shows are given almost nightly for such as care to attend. HONOLULU. CURRENCY same as in U.S.A. Surf-board bathing is exciting both to spectators and participants. It may be witnessed and attempted at Waikiki, a short trolley ride from the wharf. The Aquarium is unique because of the gorgeous coloring of Pacific fish. By an old Kanaka custom visitors depart as a rule decorated with gay garlands of flowers. SPECIALTIES. Calabashes, mats, tapas, native hats, Fiji cats' eyes. SECTION IV. Brought forward, Lunch at Clift" House Oars . . . Dinner . . Leave by night train for Yosemite. Pullman berth Extra fare, Merced-Yosemite, round trip by rail and stage Tip to porter ..... Tuesday Breakfast at El Portal . Foley's Yosemite Guide Visit Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake, and Happy Isles. Wednesday 1 day at Sentinel Hotel Share of tips ..... Horse and guide to Glacier Point Visit Vernal and Nevada Falls by way. Visit Overhanging Rock and Sentinel Dome. One day at Glacier Point Hotel . Share of tips ..... Take short trail down to Sentinel Hotel. Lunch Stage to El Portal. Carry forward, Section Exps. $1.00 .10 1.00 2.40 16.25 .25 .75 .50 3.00 .50 4.50 3.00 .50 1.00 134 SECTION IV. UNITED STATES. U.S.A. Customs' examination, see page 139. The beginning of June is the best season for a trip to the YOSEMITE VALLEY, though it is apt to be hot, crowded, and dusty. It takes a week to compass all the trails, but the main sights may be seen in a day. The ride to Glacier Point, via Vernal and Nevada Falls, is a wonderful experience. Each night a bonfire is lit on Glacier Point, and the hot coals are shovelled over the precipice, affording a dazzling pyrotechnic display. An excellent handbook of the Yosemite may be purchased at the hotel. CBANE VALLEY is one of these happy valleys only to be found in U.S.A. log-cabins among the pines, a lake stocked with large black bass and various species of trout, fascinating trails through the woods. Excellent accommodation is provided at "The Pines " for $2 per day. Horses, boats, fishing-tackle, etc., for hire. At present the only means of access is auto, from Fresno and Raymond, but a railroad is in course of construction. Los ANGELES is famed for its trolley trips. Book- lets giving all particulars may be obtained at the various hotels. SECTION IV. 135 Brought forward, TRIP TO WAWONA AND MARIPOSA BIG TREES. Round trip by stage . . $15.00 *Leave by afternoon stage for Wawona. One day at Wawona Hotel . 3.00- Share of tips . . . .50 *Leave Wawona early for Big Tree Grove, returning to $18. 50 Wawona for lunch, then direct to El Portal. Thursday One day at El Portal . Lunch at Merced Tips *Take afternoon train for Los Angeles. Pullman berth .... Dinner ..... Tips TRIP TO CRANE VALLEY. *Break journey at Fresno. Round trip by automobile to The Pines, Crane Valley . . $18.00 Seven days on the lake and in the woods .... 14.00 Boats, etc. .... 5.00 $37.00 Carryforward, Section Exps. $4.00 1.00 .50 2.00 1.00 .50 Total. $951.60 41.65 $993.25 136 SECTION IV. The most pleasant excursion is to the Island of Santa Catalina, with aquarium, submarine gardens, tarpon fishing, and other attractions. Many seaside resorts are within easy reach by trolley. From Los Angeles the tourist may proceed by the Santa Fe route and visit the Grand Canyon of Arizona; or he may take the Salt Lake, Union Pacific, Burlington, and Michigan Central route, and visit Salt Lake City, Denver (for Pike's Peak and the Garden of the Gods), Chicago, and Niagara Falls. SECTION IV. 137 Brought forward, IN Los ANGELES. 1. Trolley trip to Pasadena, Altadena, and San Gabriel .... Lunch ...... 2. Excursion to Santa Catalina Visit Submarine Gardens . Lunch ...... One day at Melrose Hotel . . *Leave by night train. Pulman berth to New York Tourist class, $7.60. Food on train Tips . . OVER FOUR MONTHS : 1st class all the way 2nd class travel *The ideal tour of the world is a com- bination of Sections I., II., and IV., taking in Britain, Paris, Lucerne, Italy, Greece, Palestine, Egypt (with Nile trip), Aden, Ceylon, India, Burmah, Straits Settlements, China, Japan, Hawaii, and the Yosemite. ABOUT EIGHT MONTHS : 1st class all the way, approx. 2nd class travel, ,, Section Exps. $1.00 1.00 2.80 .50 1.00 2.50 15.20 10.00 1.50 Total. $993.25 8.80 26.70 $1028.75 785.60 $1540.00 1250.00 UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. Official Notice to Incoming Passengers. Paragraph 709, appearing in the free list of the present Tariff Act, governing passengers' baggage, reads as folio svs : 709. "Wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, toilet articles, and similar personal effects of persons arriving in the United States; but this exemption shall only include such articles as actually accompany and are in the use of, and as are necessary and appropriate for the use of such persons, for the immediate purposes of the journey and present comfort and convenience, and shall not be held to apply to merchandise or articles intended for other persons or for sale : PROVIDED, That in case of residents of the United States returning from abroad, all wearing apparel and other personal effects taken by them out of the United States to foreign countries shall be admitted free of duty, without regard to their value, upon their identity being established, under appropriate rules and regulations to be prescribed by the Secretary of the Treasury, but no more than one hundred dollars in value of articles purchased abroad by such residents of the United States shall be admitted free of duty upon their return," 140 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Residents of the United States. Residents of the United States must declare all articles which have been obtained abroad by purchase or otherwise, whether used or unused, and whether on their persons, in their clothing, or in their baggage. The foreign value of each article, stated in United States money, must also be declared. Articles taken from the United States and remodelled, repaired, or improved abroad must be declared, and the cost of such remodelling, repairing, or improving must be separately stated. The following articles are dutiable : Household effects, including books, pictures, furniture, tableware, table linen, bed linen, and other similar articles, unless used abroad by the owner for a period of a year or more. Goods in the piece. Articles of any nature intended for sale, or for other persons. The following articles are free if under $100 in value and if necessary for comfort and convenience for the purposes of the journey, and not for sale nor for other persons : Clothing. Toilet articles, such as combs, brushes, soaps, cosmetics, shaving and manicure sets, etc. Personal adornments, jewellery, etc. UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. 141 Similar personal effects, which may include Cameras, canes, fishing tackle, glasses (field, opera, marine), golf sticks, guns, musical instruments, parasols, photographs, smokers' articles, steamer rugs and shawls, toys, trunks, valises, etc. Clothing and other personal effects taken out of the United States by the passenger IF NOT INCREASED IN VALUE OR IMPROVED IN CONDITION WHILE ABROAD. If increased in * value or improved in condition, they are dutiable on the cost of the repairs. The above lists of articles which are dutiable and non-dutiable are stated for the assistance of passengers and are not exhaustive. ALL ARTICLES ARE DUTIABLE UNLESS SPECIFICALLY EXEMPTED BY LAW. Pack in one trunk, if practicable, all dutiable articles. RECEIPTED BILLS for foreign purchases should be presented whenever possible. USE DOES NOT EXEMPT FROM DUTY wearing apparel or other articles obtained abroad, but such articles will be appraised at their value in the condition as imported, due allowance being made for depreciation through wear and use. Non-Residents of the United States. Non-residents of the United States are entitled to bring in free of duty, without regard to the one- hundred-dollar exemption, such articles as are in the 142 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. nature of wearing apparel, articles of personal adorn- ment, toilet articles, and similar personal effects, necessary and appropriate for their wear and use for the purposes of their journey and present comfort and convenience, and which are not intended for other persons or for sale. Citizens of the United States, or persons who have at any time resided in this country, shall be deemed to be residents of the United States unless they shall have abandoned their residence in this country and acquired an actual bond-fide residence in a foreign country. Such citizens or former residents who desire the privileges granted by law to non-residents must show to the satisfaction of the collector's representative on the pier, subject to the collector's approval, that they have given up their residence in the United States and that they have become bond, fide residents of a foreign country. The residence of a wife follows that of the husband ; and the residence of a minor child follows that of the parents. Goods other than Personal Effects. Household effects of persons or families from foreign countries will be admitted free of duty only if actually used abroad by them not less than one year, and if not intended for any other person, nor for sale. Such effects should be declared whether the passenger be a resident or a non-resident of the United States. UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. 143 Articles intended for use in business, or for other persons, theatrical apparel, properties, and sceneries, must be declared by passengers, whether residents or non-residents. Cigars and Cigarettes. All cigars and cigarettes must be declared. Each passenger over eighteen years of age may bring in free of duty 50 cigars or 300 cigarettes if for the bond-fide use of such passenger. Such cigars and cigarettes will be in addition to the articles included within the $100 exemption. Baggage Declarations. The law provides that every person entering the United States shall make a declaration and entry of his or her personal baggage. The law further requires that the values of articles shall be determined by customs officers, irrespective of the statements of passengers thereto. It will thus be seen that there is no discourtesy in the requirement that both a declaration and an independent appraisal shall be made. Taken together, these requirements place the passenger in the same position as any other importer of merchandise. Passengers should observe that on the sheet given them there are two forms of declarations; the one printed in black is for residents of the United States, the one in red for non-residents. 144 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. The exact number of pieces of baggage, including all trunks, valises, boxes, packages, and hand-bags of any description accompanying the passenger, must be stated in the declaration. The senior member of a family, present as a passenger, may make declaration for the entire family. Ladies travelling alone should state that fact in their declarations in order that an expeditious examination of their baggage may be made. When the declaration is prepared and signed, the coupon at the bottom of the form must be detached and retained by the passenger, and the form given to the officer of the ship designated to receive the same. A declaration spoiled in its preparation must not be destroyed, but turned over to the purser, who will furnish a new blank to the passenger. After all the baggage and effects of the passenger have been landed upon the pier, the coupon which has been retained by the passenger must be presented at the inspector's desk, whereupon an inspector will be detailed to examine the baggage. Passengers must acknowledge in person, on the pier, their signature to their declarations. Examination of any baggage may be postponed if the passenger requests the officer taking his declaration to have it sent to the appraiser's store. Passengers must not deduct the $100 exemption in making out their declarations. Such deductions will be made by customs officers on the pier. UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. 145 Contested Valuation. PASSENGERS DISSATISFIED WITH VALUES placed upon dutiable articles by the customs officers on the pier may demand a re-examination, but application therefor should be immediately made to the officers there in charge. If for any reason this course is impracticable, the packages containing the articles should be left in customs custody and application for re-appraisement made to the collector of customs, in writing, within ten days after the original appraisement. No REQUEST FOR RE-APPRAISEMENT CAN BE ENTERTAINED AFTER THE ARTICLES HAVE BEEN REMOVED FROM CUSTOMS CUSTODY. Miscellaneous Provisions. Currency or certified checks only can be accepted in payment of duties, but, upon request, baggage will be retained on the piers for twenty-four hours to enable the owner to secure currency or certified checks. The offering of gratuities or bribes to customs officers is a violation of the law. Customs officers who accept gratuities or bribes will be dismissed from the service, and all parties concerned will be liable to criminal prosecution. Discourtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers should be reported to the collector at the custom-house, to the deputy collector or the deputy surveyor at the pier, or to the Secretary of the Treasury. 146 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Baggage for Transportation in Bond. Baggage intended for delivery at ports in the United States other than the port of arrival, or in transit through the United States to a foreign country, may be forwarded thereto without the assessment of duty at the port of arrival, by the various railroads and express companies, whose representatives will be found on the pier. Passengers desiring to have their baggage forwarded in bond should indicate such intention and state the value thereof in their declarations before any ex- amination of the baggage has been made. Sealskin Garments. An Act of Congress of 1897, as amended in 1910, expressly forbids the importation into the United States of garments made in whole or part of the skins of seals taken in the waters of the Pacific Ocean ; and unless the owner is able to establish by competent evidence, and to the satisfaction of the collector, that the garments are not prohibited, they can not be admitted. Penalty for not Declaring Articles Obtained Abroad. UNDER SECTIONS 2802 AND 3082 OF THE REVISED STATUTES OF THE UNITED STATES, ARTICLES OBTAINED ABROAD AND NOT DECLARED ARE SUBJECT TO SEIZURE, AND THE PASSENGER IS LIABLE TO CRIMINAL PROSECUTION. UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. 147 Excerpt from Table of U.S. Customs Duties. ARTICLES. RATES OP DUTY. A. Chemicals, etc. Dru s I l &' lb * and 10 ru ^> ' ' I per cent, ad veil. Perfumery, cosmetics, con- taining alcohol, . . 60c. Ib. and 50 per cent, ad vol. Perfumery, cosmetics, not con- taining alcohol, . . 50 per cent, ad vol. B. Earthenware, etc. Earthenware, porcelain, decorated, . . .60 per cent, ad val. Earthenware, common, . 25 per cent, ad val. Glassware, plain and cut, decorated, . . .60 per cent, ad val. Glassware, undecorated, . 55 per cent, ad vol. Marble, manufactures of, except for jewellery, . 50 per cent, ad val. C. Metals and manufactures of. Automobiles and finished parts, not including tyres, 45 per cent, ad vol. Iron, manufactures of, . 45 per cent, ad val. D. Wood and manufactures of. Wood, manufactures of, . 35 per cent, ad val. E. Sugar, etc. Sugar candy, valued at more than 15 cents per Ib., . 50 per cent, ad val. 148 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. ABTICLKS. RATES OF DUTY. F. Tobacco and manufactures of. , . f $4.501b., and 25 per Cigars and cigarettes, .| ceni .adval. H. Spirits and Wines. Brandy, gin, whisky, cor- dials, . . . . $2.60 per gallon. Wines, champagne, in quarts $9.60 per dozen. Wines, still, in casks, . . 45c. per gallon. Wines, still, in quarts, . $1.85 per dozen. Malt liquors, . . . 45c. per gallon. Mineral waters, in quarts, . 30c. per dozen. I. Cotton manufactures. Cotton cloth, . . . Ic. to8c. persqu. yd. Cotton clothing, ready made, 50 per cent, ad vol. 70c. to $2 per doz., Cotton hosiery, pairs, . { and 15 per cent. ad vol. 60c. per doz., and 15 Cotton shirts, drawers, per cent, ad val. to $2.25 doz. and 25 per cent, ad vol. {9c. squ. yd. and 25 per cent, ad val. to 10 J A 12c. squ. yd. and 25 per cent, ad val. J. Flax, etc. Lace manufactures, . . 60 per cent, ad val. UNITED STATES CUSTOMS. 149 ARTICLES. K. "Wool and manufactures of. Blankets, . BATES OF DUTY. ( 22c. Ib. and 30 per I cent, ad val. to 44c. ' 1 Ib. and 55 per cent. ad val. Dress-goods, women's and children's. Clothing, ready made, Carpets and rugs, L. Silk and Silk Goods. Silk, spun in skeins, . Silk, wearing apparel, Silk, yarns, . M. Paper and Books. Books, pamphlets, N. Sundries. Beads, Brushes, . Toys, Feathers, . Furs, dressed, . Furs, wearing apparel, f 7c. squ. yd. and 50 J per cent, ad vol. to lie. squ. yd. and 55 per cent, ad val. ( 44c. Ib. and 60 per \ cent, ad val. f lOc, equ. ft. and 40 \ per cent, ad vaL . 35 per cent, ad val. . 60 per cent, ad val. . 45c. to 60c. per Ib. . 25 per cent, dd val. . 35 per cent, ad val. , 40 per cent, ad val. . 35 per cent, ad vcd. f 20 per cent, to 60 ' \ per cent, ad val. . 20 per cent, ad val. , 50 per cent, ad val. 150 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. ABTICLKS. Bronzes, . Cameos, unset, . Cameos, set, Coral, manufactures of, RATES OP DUTY. . 45 per cent, ad vol. . 10 per cent, ad vcU. . 60 per cent, ad vol. f 50 per cent, to 60 Engravings and etchings, . Fans, . . Gold, manufactures of, not jewellery, Jewellery, .... Leather, manufactures of, . Boots and shoes, Gloves, Musical instruments, . Paintings and statuary, Precious stones, unset, Precious stones, set, . Umbrellas, Vases, per cent, ad val. 25 per cent, ad val. 50 per cent, ad val. 45 per cent, ad val. 60 per cent, ad vol. 15 per cent, ad val. 15 per cent, ad val. &1.25to5.80per dozen. . 45 per cent, ad val. , 15 per cent, ad val. . 10 per cent, ad val. . 60 per cent, ad val. . 50 per cent, ad val. . 60 per cent, ad val. { PASSPORTS. N"o one but the Secretary of State may grant and issue passports in the United States. The law forbids the granting of a passport to any person who is not a citizen of the United States. A person who has only made the declaration of intention to become a citizen of the United States cannot receive a passport. A citizen of the United States in this country, in order to procure a passport, must make a written application, in the form of an affidavit, to the Secretary of State. The affidavit must be attested by an officer authorised to administer oaths, and if he has an official seal it must be affixed. If he has no seal, his official character must be authenticated by certificate of the proper legal officer. The applicant is required to state the date and place of his birth, his occupation, and the place of his permanent residence, and to declare that he goes abroad for temporary sojourn, and intends to return to the United States with the purpose of residing and performing the duties of citizenship therein. The applicant must take the oath of allegiance to the Government of the United States. The application must be accompanied by a description of the person applying, and should state the following 152 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. particulars, viz. : Age, .... years ; stature, .... feet, .... inches ; forehead, . . . . ; eyes, . . . . ; nose, . . . . ; mouth, . . . . ; chin, . . . . ; hair, . . . . ; complexion, . . . . ; face, The application must be accompanied by a certificate from at least one credible witness that the applicant is the person he represents himself to be, and that the facts stated in the affidavit are true to the best of the witness's knowledge and belief. A passport expires two years from its date of issuance. When an applicant is accompanied by his wife, minor children, or servant, being an American citizen, it will be sufficient to state the fact, giving the respective ages of the children and the citizenship of the servant, when one passport will suffice for all. For any other person in the party a separate passport will be required. A woman's passport may include her minor children and servant under the above- named conditions. A fee of one dollar is required to be collected for every citizen's passport. Blank forms of application will be furnished to persons who desire to apply for passports upon their stating whether they are native or naturalized citizens, or claim to be such through the naturalization of husband or father. BOOKS OF INTEREST TO TRAVELLERS. Place. Book. Author. Period. EUROPE . Portraits of Places . Henry James . Transatlantic Sketches . Henry James Personally Conducted F. R. Stockton . Sauiiterings C. D. Warner SCOTLAND . Scottish Chiefs . Jine Po t f 14th cent. Days Days of Bruce . . . Grace Aguilar "^ Bruce. ^ *" Black Douglas . S. R. Crockett . 15th cent. The Abbot Walter Scott . Queen Mary. John Splendid . . Neil Munro . 17th cent. Legend of Montrose Walter Scott . Old Mortality . Walter Scott . Lochinvar . S. R. Crockett . ,, Rob Roy . Walter Scott . 18th cent. Waverley . Walter Scott . Redgauntlet Walter Scott . Master of Ballantrae R. L. Stevenson . ,, Kidnapped R. L. Stevenson . Edinburgh : Picturesque Notes R. L. Stevenson . Penelope's Progress . Kate D. Wiggin . In Far Lochaber . William Black . Auld Licht Idylls . J. M. Barrie A Window in Thrums J. M. Barrie E.N'OLAND . Harold . Lytton . "> llth cent. Nor- Hereward the Wake C. Kingsley / man Conquest. Maid Marion . . Thos. Peacock \12th cent. Days Forest Days G. P. R. James / of Robin Hood. Ivanhoe . . Walter Scott . 12th cent. Black Arrow . . . R. L. Stevenson -j j^ seg Tower of London W. H. Ainsworth. Lady Jane Grey. Kenilworth . . . Walter Scott ^ 16th cent. Days Sir Mortimer . Mary Johnston f of Queen Eliza- Westward Ho ! . O. Kingsley > beth. 154 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Place. Book. Author. Period. Fortunes of Nigel . Walter Scott . 17th cent. Woodstock Walter Scott . Peveril of the Peak . Walter Scott . Old St. Paul's W. H. Ainsworth London Plague. Simon Dale Anthony Hope . Nell Gwynn. Lorna Doone . R. D. Blackmore. 17th cent. Esmond .... W. M. Thackeray. 18th. cent. Monsieur Beaucaire . B. Tarkington . Heart of Midlothian . Walter Scott . Barnaby Rudge Chas. Dickens . Gordon Riots. Rodney Stone . A. Conan Doyle - 19th cent. English Traits . R. W. Emerson . A Wanderer in London . E. V. Lucas . A Trip to England . Gold win Smith . Penelope's English Ex- periences . Kate. D. Wiggin . American Girl in London, Sara J. Duncan . Puck of Pook's Hill . Rudyard Kipling. GKRMANY . Munich .... H R. Wadleigh . Diary of a Pilgrimage J. K. Jerome Three Men on a Bummel . J. K. Jerome . A Tramp Abroad . Mark Twain FRANCE . The White Company A. Oonan Doyle . 14th cent. Notre Dame Victor Hugo ' 15th cent. Marguerite de Valois A. Dumas . . 16th cent. Count Hannibal Stanley Weyman. ,, Forty-Five Guardsmen . A. Dumas . . ,, A Gentleman of France . Stanley Weyman ,, Three Musketeers . A. Dumas . . 17th cent. Twenty Years After . A. Dumas . . ,. The Black Tulip A. Dumas . . ,, Vicomte de Bragelonne . A. Dumas . . ,, Under the Red Robe Stanley Weyman. ,, Richelieu - ... G. P. R. James . French Revolution . Thos. Carlyle . Revolution. Tale of Two Cities . Charles Dickens . ,, Ninety-Three . Victor Hugo . ,, The Red Cockade . Stanley Weyman ,, Trampling of the Lilies . R. Sabatini . . ,, The Red Republic . R. W. Chambers. BOOKS OF INTEREST. 155 Place, Period. ITALY . Grant Allen A Wanderer in Paris E. V. Lucas . Trilby . Geo. Du Maurier Ben Hur .... Lew Wallace . 1st cent. Quo Vadis ? H. Sienkiewicz ,1 The Gladiators . Geo. Melville Last Days of Pompeii Lytton i. Marius the Epicurean Walter Pater . 2nd cent. Callista . . . . John Newman . 3rd cent. Attila . G. P. R. James . 5th cent. Antonina . Wilkie Collins Rienzi . Lytton . . 14th cent. Marietta . F. M. Crawford . 15th cent. Romola . George Eliot /Days of Savon- \ arola. Master Mosaic Workers . George Sand . 16th cent. Stones of Venice John Ruskin Venetian Days . W. D. Howells Roman Singer . F. M. Crawford Saracinesca F. M. Crawford Rome . Emile Zola . The Eternal City Hall Caine . Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece J. A. Symonds Age of Fable Thos. Bulfinch . Painters, Sculptors, etc. . Mrs. Clement GRRBCB . Pausanias the Spartan . Lytton . Plutarch's Lives The Last Athenian . Age of Fable . Sketches in Italy Greece ) Pre-Christian / Days. . V. Rydberg . . 4th cent. . Thos. Bulflnch . and . J. A. Symonds . PALHSTINB . Ben Hur .... Lew Wallace Barabbas .... Marie Corelli Story of the Other Wise . H. Van Dyke Man Via Crucis . Cornhill to Cairo . 1st cent. .F.M. Crawford . W. M. Thackeray, Historical Geography of the Holy Land . . G. A. Smith 156 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Place. EGYPT Book. Author. INDIA . BURMAH CHINA JAPAN Uarda . . . . G. Ebers Hypatia .... Chas. Kingsley Cornhill to Cairo . . W. M. Thackeray. One Thousand Miles up the Nile . . . .A. Edwards . Winter on the Nile . . C. D. Warner The Spell of Egypt . . R. Hitehens Period. / Days of Raiuesis \ II. . 5th cent. The Light of Asia Edwin Arnold 6th cent. B.C. Essays on dive and Hastings . Thos. Macaulay . 18th cent. Flotsam .... H S. Merriman . Mutiny Time. On the Face of the Waters, Flora A. Steel . The Potter's Thumb. Flora A. Steel 19th cent Confessions of a Thug Meadows Taylor . Simple Adventures of a Memsahih . Sara J. Duncan . More Tramps Abroad Mark Twain Indian Tales, etc. Rudyard Kipling, Indian Summer W. D. Howells . Indian Wisdom . Monier Williams . Palace Tales Fielding Hall The Soul of a People Fielding Hall . Things Chinese Ball . . The Chinese . J. O. Thomson . Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan .... Lafcadio Hearn . The Lady of the Decoration . . .A. Little Crimson Azaleas . . H. De Vere Stac- poole . Japs at Home . . . Douglas Sladen . Tales of Old Japan . . Mitford Around the World in Eighty Days . . Jules Verne , The Other Side of the Lantern . . . Frederick Treves, One Way Around the World .... Delight Sweetser, THE TRAVELLER'S BOOK OF DAYS Italy. Jan. 6. Procession in Church of S. Maria in Ara-coeli, Rome. Benediction from top of steps. ,, 17. St. Anthony 's Day. Blessing of horses, mules, and cattle at Sant 'Antonio, Rome. ,, 18. Chair of St. Peter. Pontifical Mass and procession in St. Peter's, Rome. ,, 21. Dedication of lambs in S. Agnese Fuori, Rome. ,, 25. Conversion of St. Paul. Chains exhibited in San Paolo, Rome. Feb, 1. St. Ignatius. Illumination of the subterranean church of S. Clemente, Rome. ,, 2. Candlemas. Procession with candles at St. Peter's, Rome. (Week before Shrove Tuesday.) Carnival, Rome. Mar. (3rd Sunday in Lent. ) Exhibition of relics at S. Lorenzo, Rome. ,, 25. Annunciation. Procession in S. Maria sopra Minerva, Rome. Festival at Annunziata Church, Florence. April (Palm Sunday.) Procession and consecration of palms in St. Peter's, Rome. (Wednesday.) Exhibition of Passion relics in St. Peter's, Rome. (Holy Thursday.) Miserere in all churches. Washing of the altar. (Good Friday.) Miserere in all churches. En- tombment in St. Peter's, Rome. 158 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. April (Saturday.) Lighting of the holy fire in all churches. (Easter Day.) High Mass in St. Peter's, Rome. Exhibition of Passion relics. (Saturday after Lent. ) Festival in commemoration of sacred fire brought from Jerusalem after Crusade of 1099, Cathedral, Florence. ,, 23. St. George. Exhibition of relics in S. Giorgio, Rome. ,, 25. St. Mark. Festival in Venice. Procession from S. Marco to St. Peter's, Rome, May 3. Discovery of the Cross. Relics borne through Milan. Relics exhibited at S. Croce, Rome. (First Sunday.) "Liquefaction of the blood of St. Januarius." Great triennial festival at Naples. (Ascension Day.) Pontifical Mass in S. Giovanni in Laterano, Rome. Benediction from the balcony. June (First Sunday. ) Constitution Day. (Thursday after Trinity Sunday. ) Corpus Christi processions in all cities. ,, 23. Midsummer Day. Races on bare-backed horses and fireworks in Florence. ,, 24. St. John Baptist. Pontifical Mass in S. Giovanni Laterano, Rome. Relics carried in procession iii Cathedral, Genoa. ,, 28. Eve of St. Peter. Illumination of dome of St. Peter's, Rome. ,, 29. St, Peter. High Mass in St. Peter's, Rome. Exhibition of relics in S. Giovanni in Laterano, Rome. Fireworks on Monte Pincio, Rome. Aug. 1. Festival in S. Pietro in Vincoli, Rome. Festival at Assisi. TRAVELLER'S BOOK OF DAYS. Aug. 15. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin. Papal benediction from the balcony in S. Maria Maggiore, Rome. Festival at Capodimonte, Naples. Sept. 8. Nativity of the Blessed Virgin. High Mass at S. Maria del Popolo, Rome. Festivals at Florence and Turin. Festival of the "Vergine di Piedigrotta," with dance of the Tarantella, Naples. ,, 19. "Liquefaction of the blood of St. Januarius." Triennial festival in Naples. Oct. 4. Festival of St. Francis, Assisi. (First Sunday. ) Rosary Sunday. Great procession from S. Maria sopra Minerva, Rome. Nov. 1. All Saints' Day. Tableaux of scenes from the lives of martyrs exhibited in the cemeteries, Rome. ,, 4. High Mass in S. Carlo in Corso, Rome. ,, 22. St. Cecilia. Illumination of the catacombs of S. Callistus, Rome. ,, 23. St. Clement. Illumination of subterranean church in S. Clemente, Rome. Dec. 3. St. Francis Xavier. Festival at the Gesu, Rome. ,, 8. Immaculate Conception. High Mass in Sistine Chapel, Rome. One thousand candles lit in shrine of the Virgin, Cathedral, Florence. ,, 16. " Liquefaction of the blood of St. Januarius." Triennial festival in Naples. ,, 17/24. Zampognari perambulate the streets, playing flutes and bagpipes before the shrines of the Madonna in Naples. ,, 24. Christmas Eve. "Presepe" in every church and house in Naples. Procession of the Holy Crib in S. Maria Maggiore, Rome. Noctural services at the Vatican, Sistine Chapel, etc. 160 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Dec. 25. Christmas. High Mass in St. Peter's, Rome. Krippes exhibited in many churches. 27. Exhibition of heads of SS. Peter and Paul in S. Giovanni in Laterano, Rome. * The Greek and Russian Christmas falls on January 6th. The Armenian Christmas falls on January 19th. All Mohammedan Countries. The Mohammedan year consists of only 354 days. The following dates are worked out for 1913. On each succeeding year the ceremonies will take place 1 1 days earlier. Year 1331 of the Hijrah commences December llth, 1912. Each succeeding new moon begins a new month. Jan. 21. The anniversary of Mahomet's last bathing. His followers write out seven blessings, wash off the ink and drink the water, bathe, and say prayers. Feb. (About beginning of month.) Returning Mecca caravan is welcomed with blare of trumpets and thunder of drums. Procession enters Cairo by the Bab en Nasr and moves to citadel, where cannon are fired. All believers turn out to welcome the pilgrims. ,, 19. Celebration of Mahomet's birthday. Illuminations and great procession of dervishes. ,, 20. At night, a dervish dance. Mar. (Latter part of month.) Fifteen days' festival for Hosein's birthday. The most important day is always a Tuesday. Large crowds gather in the mosques, and there are frenzied dervish dances. July 2. Festival of Mahomet's ascension. TRAVELLER'S BOOK OF DAYS. 161 Aug. 3. Beginning of great fast of Ramazan. For 30 days the Mohammedans abstain wholly from eating, drinking, and all physical enjoyment between dawn and sunset. Streets and cafes are thronged in the night, when restrictions are withdrawn and believers may eat, drink, and smoke as they please. Sept. 2. Beginning of three days' feasting and rejoicing over the breaking of Ramazan. ,, 25. Pilgrimage to Mecca begins. Great procession of all believers. Even the windows of the harems are for once thrown wide that the veiled women may look upon the pilgrims. Nov. 30. Beginning of ten days' fast to commemorate the murder of Mahomet's grandsons. Intense fanaticism prevails. On the seventh day an image of El Burak, the saored horse, is borne in procession and finally buried or thrown into the sea, while the faithful move in a circle, wailing and beating their breasts. Dec. 10. Celebration of the meeting of Adam and Eve after expulsion from Paradise, and of the grounding of Noah's Ark. Troops of white-robed Mohammedans parade, cutting their fore- heads with swords till the blood stains their white clothes. * Visitors to Mohammedan countries are always interested in the Muezzin's stirring call to prayer. The call is repeated from the minarets five times a day: 1. Shortly after sunset. 2. Nightfall, labours after sunset. 3. Dawn. 4. Noon. 5. Afternoon, three hours after mid-day. The call is as follows : Allahu akbar (Allah is great). Repeated four times. L 162 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Ashadu an la ilaha ilia' 11 ah (I testify there is no god but Allah). Repeated twice. Ashadu anna Muhammedar-rasulu-'llah (I testify that Mahomet is the prophet of Allah). Repeated twice. Heiya 'ala's-salah (Come to prayer). Repeated twice. Heiya 'ala'l-felah(Come to salvation). Repeated twice. Allahu akbar (Allah is great). Repeated twice. M ilaha ilia' Hah (There is no god but Allah). Hindoo Festivals. Feb. About the middle of the month is the festival of Shiva, when the god is worshipped with flowers all night. February and March are auspicious months for weddings. Great processions and open-air feasts may be seen in any Indian town. Mar. About the time of the new moon is the carnival of Krishna. The natives pelt one another with red and yellow powder. About the middle of the month, the festival of Burwa Mangal at Benares. The Ganges is crowded with barges, gaily decorated and brilliantly illumined, in which the natives feast to an accompaniment of music and nautch -dancing. Nov./Dec. At new moon, the feast of lamps in honour of Kali. All houses are lit up, and burning lamps are set adrift on rivers and sea. Chinese Festivals. The Chinese year may begin any time between the 21st January and the end of February with the new moon. Each new moon begins a new month. TRAVELLER'S BOOK OF DAYS. 163 1st Moon. New year celebrated for three or four days. All debts of the insolvent are declared discharged. In the towns there are street celebrations, with parades and fireworks. Fifteenth day is the feast of lanterns. 2nd Moon. About the middle of the month a day is set apart for the sweeping of the graves of ancestors. The people feast at the graves and set off fire- works to dispel the evil spirits. 5th Moon. Fifth day is the feast of dragons. Day devoted to water sports, night to processions of illuminated boats. 8th Moon. Fifteenth day is Autumn Festival. Everyone makes moon-cakes and worships the moon. Japanese Festivals. Jan. 1/3. New Year Festival. All houses decorated with pines and bamboos. Wrestling for ten days at Ekoin Temple, Tokyo. ,, 15. Red Bean Porridge Festival. Feb. 11. Constitution Day. Mar. (Plum Blossoms. ) ,, 3. Festival of dolls for girls. ,, 21. Spring Festival for the Imperial Ancestors. April (Peach and Cherry Blossoms. ) Every night of month, Cherry-dance at Kyoto. ,, 8. Birthday of Sakyamuni. Hot-water ceremony at Ontake-Jinsha Shrine, Kanda, near Tokyo. ,, 9. Fire- walking ceremony at Kanda. Near end of April (date variable), Imperial Garden Party at Tokyo. Admission by ticket obtained by application to U. S. Embassy. (Date variable.) Race Meeting in Yokohama. Race for Mikado's Cup. 164 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. May (Peonies, Wistarias, and Azaleas.) ,, 1. Festival of the "Spirit of the Polar Star" in eastern suburbs of Tokyo. ,, 4. Festival of the Koami-Jinja Shrine in Tokyo. The shrine and districts near it are decorated with paper lanterns and fancy pictures. Kagura dances and flower-carts are a con- spicuous feature of the festival. ,, 5. Tango, or boys' festival of banners. Large paper carp, some black and others red, are hoisted on high bamboo poles before the houses. The festival is observed by every family having sons. Wrestling matches for ten days at Ekoin Temple, Tokyo. ,, 11. Festival of Shitaya-Jinja Shrine at Tokyo. Flower-carts and Kagura dances ; streets lined with paper lanterns. ,, 17. Festival of Asakusa- Jinja Shrine in Asakusa Park, Tokyo. A peculiar dance called Binzazara and the Kagura dances are performed. ,, 28. Birthday of Dowager Empress. June (Irises. ) July (Morning Glories.) ,, 7. Festival of the Stars. ,, 13. Feast for the departed souls. Aug. (Lotus Flowers.) Festival of the Full Moon. Sept. 15. Festival at San-no-miya Shrine, Yokohama. ,, 19. Hot-water ceremony at On take Shrine, Kanda, near Tokyo. ,, 17. Fire- walking ceremony at Kanda. Oct 27. Offering of first-fruits to Imperial Ancestors. Nov. (Chrysanthemums. ) ,, 5. Yasukuni Shrine Festival at Kudan, near Tokyo. TABLES Largest Transatlantic Liners. Steamer. Built Pl ace - Tormasre Owners. Aquitania .. .. 1913 Glasgow 50,000 Cunard Imperator . . . . 1913 Hamburg 50,000 Hamburg-American Olympic . . . . 1910 Belfast 45,324 White Star Lusitania . . . . 1907 Glasgow 32,000 Cunard Mauretania .. .. 1907 Newcastle 32,000 Cunard George Washington 1909 Stettin 27,000 N.D.L. Kais. Aug. Victoria 1906 Stettin 24,581 Hamburg-American Adriatic . . . . 1907 Belfast 24,541 White Star Rotterdam .. .. 1908 Belfast 24,170 Holland-America Baltic .. .. 1904 Belfast 23,876 White Star France . . . . 1910 St. Nazaire 23,500 Cie Gle. Transatlantique Amerika . . . . 1905 Belfast 22,225 Hamburg- American Cedric .. .. 1902 Belfast 21,035 White Star Celtic . . . . 1901 Belfast 20,904 White Star Caronia .. ..1905 Glasgow 20,000 Cunard Carmania .. .. 1905 Glasgow 20,000 Cunard Kr'pr'essin Cecilie . . 1907 Stettin 20,000 N.D.L. Transatlantic Records. Date. Steamer. Owners. D. H. M. 1856 Persia Cunard 9 1 45 1866 Scotia Cunard 8 2 48 1869 City of Brussels ... Inman 7 22 3 1873 Baltic White Star 7 20 9 1875 City of Berlin Inman 7 15 48 1876 Germannic White Star 7 11 37 1877 Britannic White Star 7 10 53 1880 Arizona Guion 7 7 23 1882 Alaska Guion 6 18 37 1884 Oregon Cunard 6 11 9 1884 America National 6 10 1887 Umbria Cunard 6 4 42 1888 Etruria Cunard 6 1 55 1891 Majestic White Star 5 18 8 1891 Teutonic White Star 5 16 31 1892 City of Paris Inman 5 14 24 1893 Campania Cunard 5 12 7 1894 Lucania Cunard 5 7 23 1908 Lusitania Cunard 4 15 1910 Mauretania Cunard 4 10 41 166 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Records of Passenger Trains. Date. Railroad. 1888 L. & N.-W. (England) . . 1888 Great Western (England) 1895 Pennsylvania .. 1895 L. & N.-W. (England). . 1900 Burlington 1903 Atlantic Coast Line . . 1903 G.W. (England).. 1904 Michigan Central 1904 G.W. (England) 1905 Pennsylvania 1905 Lake Shore & Mich. S. 1909 New York Central .. 1911 Pennsylvania .. Terminals. London Edinburgh London Didcot Camden Atlantic City London Aberdeen .. Burlington Chicago Jacksonville Savannah London Plymouth . . Niagara Falls Windsor London Bristol Chicago Pittsburg . . Buffalo Chicago . . New York Chicago Altoona Philadelphia Miles per Hour. . . 52.4 .. 68 . . 76.5 . . 63.2 . . 65.5 . . 70.7 . . 63.1 .. 70-7 .. 84.6 . . 63.5 .. 69.7 . . 62.5 . 67.2 ile 4.02 3.02 2.01 3.16 2.35 1.53 2.73 1.75 1.16 3.29 2.47 1.65 2.91 1.98 1.17 3.60 2.52 1.62 Passenger Railway Rates in Europe. Country. Class I. Class II. Class III. England cents per mile France .... Germany Holland Belgium ... Italy Value of Foreign Monetary Units (Gold) in U.S.A. Argentine Austria Belgium Canada Egypt France Germany Great Britain Greece Peso 0.965 Crown .203 Franc .193 Dollar 1.00 Pound 4.943 Franc .193 Mark .238 Sovereign 4.866 Drachma .193 TABLES. 167 India ... Sovereign $4.866 Italy ... Lira .193 Japan ... Yen .498 Mexico ... Peso .498 Netherlands ... Florin .402 Newfoundland ... Dollar 1.014 Norway ... Krone .268 Portugal ... Milreis 1.08 Russia ... Rouble .515 Spain ... Peseta .193 Sweden ... Krone .268 Switzerland ... Franc .193 Turkey ... Piastre .044 Foreign Units of Distance, in Yards. Arabian Mile 2,146 Austrian Mile 8,297 Bavarian Mile 8,112 Bengal Coss 2,000 Brazil League 6,750 British Mile 1,760 Chinese Li 608 Danish Mile 8,238 Dutch Ure 6,086 French Kilometre 1,093 Irish Mile 2,240 Japanese Ri ... ... ... 4,294 Naples Miglio 2,018 Norwegian Mile 12,357 Persian Parasang ... ... ... 6,440 Portuguese League ... ... 6,760 Prussian Meile 8,238 Roman Mile ... ... ... 1,628 Russian Verst 1,167 Sardinian Mile ' ... 2,435 Spanish Legua ... ... ... 7,418 Swedish Mil 11,690 Swiss Meile 8,548 Wurtemburg Mile 8,147 168 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Roman and Arabic Numerals. 1 1 XI 11 XXX 30 COCO 400 II 2 XII 12 XL 40 D 500 III 3 XIII 13 L 50 DC 600 IV 4 XIV 14 LX 60 DCO 700 V." 5 XV 15 LXX 70 DCCC 800 VI 6 XVI 16 LXXX 80 CM 900 VII.. ..7 XVII.. ..17 XC 90 M 1000 VIII.. 8 XVIII..18 C 100 MCMXIII...1913 IX 9 XIX 19 CO 200 MM 2000 X 10 XX 20 CCC 300 MMD 2500 Principal Languages in the World. There are said to be 3,424 spoken languages or dialects in the world. These are distributed as follows : America ... ... 1,624 Asia 937 Europe 587 Africa 276 English is spoken by more than 150,000,000 people. German 120,000,000 ,, Russian ,, 90,000,000 French 60,000,000 Spanish 55,000,000 Italian 40,000,000 ;, Portuguese 30,000,000 Area and Inhabitants of Continents. Continent. Area in Sq. Miles. Inhabitants. America, N. 8,037,714 115,000,000 S. . . . 6,851,306 45,000,000 Europe .... 3,754,282 380,000,000 Asia 17,057,666 850,000,000 Africa . . . . 11,513,579 127,000,000 Australasia. . . . 3,456,290 5,200,000 Polar Regions . . . 4,970,265 300,000 TABLES. 169 Ocean. Atlantic Pacific Indian Arctic Antarctic Area and Depth of Oceans. Area in Sq. Miles. 24,536,000 50,309,000 17,084,000 4,781,000 30,592,000 Greatest Depth. 27,366 feet. 31,614 18,582 ,, 9,000 ,, 25,200 The Highest Mountains. Everest Dhawalagiri Aconcagua Chimborazo 29,002 feet. 28,178 23,910 21,420 The Longest Rivers. Missouri-Mississippi Nile . Yang-tse . Amazon Yenise Amur . 4194 miles. 4020 3158 3063 ,, 2950 2920 The Largest Cities. London . New York Paris Chicago . Tokyo . Berlin Vienna . 7,252,963 inhabitants. 4,766,883 ,, 2,846,986 2,185,283 2,168,151 2,064,153 2,004,291 170 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Time Difference of Foreign Towns. When it is Noon at New York it is at London, Paris, Geneva, Berlin, Christiania, Stockholm, Gibraltar, . Algiers, Rome, Athens, Cairo, Aden, Bombay, . Lucknow, . Calcutta, , Singapore, Hong Kong, Manila, Shanghai, . Yokohama, Honolulu, . England . France Switzerland Germany . Norway . Sweden . Algeria Italy Greece Egypt Arabia India Straits Settlements 5. p.m. 5. 9 p.m. 5.25p.m. 5.54 p.m. 5.43p.m. 6.12p.m. 4.39 p.m. 5.12 p.m. 5.50p.m. 6.35 p.m. 7.0 p.m. 8.0 p.m. 9.51 p.m. 10.20 p.m. 10.53 p.m. 12 midnight. *0.37 a.m. *1. 4a.m. *1. 6a.m. *2. 19a.m. 6.29 a.m. Philippines China Japan Hawaii Times marked (*) are the following morning. In crossing the 180th meridian, six days out of Yokohama, one day is repeated going east, omitted going west. Date of Beginning of Eras, in comparison with the Christian. Era of .the Olympiads Roman Era .... Grecian Era .... Julian Year .... Spanish Era . . Augustan Era .... Destruction of Jerusalem . Mohammedan Era , , , B.C. 776. B.C. 753. B.C. 312. B.C. 45. B.C. 38. B.C. 27. A.D. 69. A.D. 622. July 1. April 24. Sept. 1. Jan 1. Jan. 1. Feb. 14. Sept. 1. July 16. TABLES. 171 Distance, Mail Time, and Telegraph Rates between New York and Foreign Towns. Town. Miles. Days. Kate per Word. Glasgow .... 3,370 8 $0.25 London .... 3,740 7 .25 Stockholm . . . 4,975 10 .38 Paris .... 4,020 8 .25 Rome .... 5,030 9 .31 Athens .... 5,655 11 .36 Alexandria . . . 6,150 12 .50 Cairo .... 6,280 12 .50 Luxor . . . .6,730 14 .50 Assuan .... 6,863 14 .50 Suez .... 6,370 13 .50 Jerusalem . . . 6,550 14 Aden .... 7,875 17 Bombay .... 9,765 22 .74 Calcutta. . . . 11,120 24 .74 Rangoon. . . . 11,900 27 .74 Penang , 11,735 31 1.11 Singapore . . . 12,175 32 1.11 Hong Kong (via San Francisco) 10,590 27 1.22 ,, ,, (via Siberia) ... 23 Shanghai (via Vancouver) 9,920 25 1.22 ,, (via Siberia) . ... 21 Yokohama . . . 7,345 20 1.33 Honolulu . . . 5,645 12 .47 Address and signature are included in the chargeable matter in telegrams, and the length of a word is limited to 15 letters. 172 BEYOND THE SEA-RIM. Height of Some Famous Structures. Eiffel Tower 984 feet, Woolworth Building, N.Y. . . 760 ,, Metropolitan Building, N.Y. . 700 ,, Singer Building, N.Y. . . . 612 Cologne Cathedral . . . 512 Great Pyramid . . . . 451 , , St. Peter's, Rome . . . . 433 ,, St. Paul's, London . . . . 404 ,, Florence Cathedral . . . 387 Milan Cathedral . . . . 360 ,, Capitol, Washington . . . 288 ,, Bunker Hill Monument . . . 221 ,, Thermometers. There are three kinds of thermometers, with varying scales, in general use throughout the world Fahrenheit, Reaumur, and Centigrade. The freezing and boiling points on their scales compare as follows : Thermometer. Freezing Point. Boiling Point. Fahrenheit ... 32 212 degrees. Reaumur . . . Zero 80 ,, Centigrade . . . ,, 100 ,, The degrees on one scale are reduced to their equivalents on the other by these formulas : F. to R. Subtract 32, and multiply by four-ninths. F. to C. Subtract 32, and multiply by five-ninths. R. to F. Multiply by nine-fourths, and add 32. R. to C. Multiply by five-fourths. C. to F. Multiply by nine-fifths, and add 32. C. to R. Multiply by four-fifths. MEMORANDA. 173 174 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 175 176 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 177 178 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 179 180 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 181 182 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 183 182 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 183 184 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 185 186 MEMORANDA. MEMORANDA. 187 190 AUTOGRAPHS. AUTOGRAPHS. 191 192 AUTOGRAPHS. AUTOGRAPHS. 193 194 AUTOGRAPHS. GOONAMALL PARSRAM, Aanutacturing Jewellers & DiamonD dfcercbants, Dealers in all sorts of SU&s anD Curios, RANGOON. BRANCHES: 63 MEADOW STREET, FORT BOMBAY. 57 PARK STREET, CALCUTTA. 50 MERCHANT STREET, RANGOON. 164 YAMASHITACHO, YOKOHAMA. JACKARIA MUSJID, BOMBAY. BAR A BAZAR, HYDERABAD (Sindh). DELHI. Maiden's Metropolitan Hotel. RESIDENT PROPRIETOR: F. SCHMUCK. &J$kj& Caterer bg zPfll$lfr Appointment to His Excellency The Right Honourable The BARON HARDINGE OF PENSHURST, Viceroy and Governor-Genernor of India. The Right Honourable The EARL OF MINTO, Late Viceroy and Governor-General oj India. His Honour Sir LOUIS DANE, G.C.I.E., C.S.I., Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab. This magnificently appointed Hotel occupies the most commanding position in Imperial Delhi, adjoining the Government of India Secretariat and close to Viceregal Lodge. Charges Moderate. Pension Rates from Rs. 8/- and upwards per diem. Spacious Dining, Reading, and Public Drawing Rooms. Electric Lights and Fans throughout. The management is entirely under the personal super- vision of the Proprietor of long Indian and Home experience, who devotes his time solely to this Hotel, and has no connection with any other hotel in India. COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED. A 000 070 683 8