GREAT CITIES OF EUROPE 
 
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 GREAT CITIES 
 OF EUROPE 
 
 FIRST SERIES 
 
 BY 
 ESTHER SINGLETON 
 
 AUTHOR OF "ROME," "FLORENCE," ETC. 
 
 GARDEN CITY NEW YORK 
 
 DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 
 
 1913
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1910, BY 
 THE BAKEE & TAYLOE COMPANY 
 
 Published, June, 191D
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 LONDON: THE GREAT METROPOLIS 11 
 
 ANTWERP: THE CITT OF RUBENS 63 
 
 THE HAGUE: "THE LARGEST VILLAGE IN EUROPE" . 99 
 
 AMSTERDAM: THE VENICE OF THE NORTH . . . 124 
 
 HAMBURG: THE BEEFSTEAK TOWN . 160 
 
 COPENHAGEN: THE ATHENS OF THE NORTH . . . 187 
 
 STOCKHOLM: THE VENICE OF THE NORTH .... 222 
 
 CHRISTIANIA: THE CITY TWICE FOUNDED . . . 250 
 
 EDINBURGH: THE MODERN ATHENS 270 
 
 DUBLIN: THE SEAT OF IRISH GOVERNMENT 295
 
 LIST OF ILLTJSTKATTONS 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 St. Paul's Church, London .... Frontispiece 
 
 The Clock Tower, Houses of Parliament, London . . 34 
 
 Place Verte and Cathedral, Antwerp 82 
 
 The Vyver, The Hague 102 
 
 The Heerengracht, Amsterdam 128 
 
 The Harbor, Hamburg 162 
 
 Jungfernstieg, The Alster Cathedral, Hamburg . . .170 
 
 Palace Square, Copenhagen ....... 200 
 
 Old and New Stockholm from Katarina Hissen . . . 228 
 
 Carl Johan's Street, Royal Palace in the distance, 
 
 Christiania 256 
 
 Edinburgh from Calton Hill 292 
 
 O'Connell's Bridge, Dublin 300
 
 GREAT CITIES OF EUROPE 
 
 FIRST SERIES
 
 A GUIDE TO CITIES 
 
 THE GREAT METROPOLIS 
 
 THE capital of the British. Empire, often called 
 the " Modern Babylon/' is the greatest city in 
 the world. Its population equals that of Ireland or 
 Scotland. Its immensity has long been the theme of 
 native and foreign writers; and the life of its 
 swarming millions always produces a strong impres- 
 sion on the visitor. 
 
 " I have seen the greatest wonder which the world 
 can show to the astonished spirit," the poet Heine 
 wrote. " I have seen it and am still astonished for- 
 ever will there remain fixed indelibly on my memory 
 the stone forest of houses amid which flows the rush- 
 ing stream of faces of living men with all their varied 
 passions and all their terrible impulses of love, of 
 hunger and of hatred I mean London." 
 
 So vast is London that people who live in one part 
 of London know little or nothing about another ; and 
 can easily lose their way in the labyrinth of unfamil- 
 iar streets. In 1881 John Bright said : " I have 
 spent six months there every year for forty years, 
 and yet I know nothing about it. I do not believe 
 
 11
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 that there is a man in it who is fairly acquainted with 
 all the parts and districts of that vast city." 
 
 We know very little of the early history of Lon- 
 don. It was a Celtic settlement when the Romans 
 arrived. Aulus built a fort there in 43. Though a 
 large place, it was of no strategical importance, and 
 Suetonius abandoned it to the rebels under Boadicea 
 jn 61. Soon afterwards a bridge was built with a 
 fort to protect the northern end. The western limit 
 of this fort was probably where London Stone now 
 stands in Cannon Street The houses multiplied 
 about the fort, but the settlement was not walled until 
 369. The enclosure was then an area of 380 acres. 
 The Picts and Scots were unable to take it. The 
 Romans having withdrawn in 410, the city was in 
 the utmost disorder. When the Britons were de- 
 feated by the heathen Saxons in 457, they retreated 
 to London. We hear nothing more of the city until 
 604, when it is an unimportant place with ruined 
 walls held by the King of the East Saxons. It was 
 open to all invaders, until it was finally burned and 
 deserted by the Danes in 839. Fifty years later, 
 Alfred saw the great military value of the place. In 
 886 he repaired the wall and founded the present 
 city of London. For citizens he chose English, 
 Danes, and French and German settlers indifferently ; 
 BO that very early the population was mixed. In 
 Alfred's laws, a man who had crossed the sea thrice 
 in his own boat was worthy of citizenship (thane- 
 right). Later kings encouraged the commerce of the 
 port and the fortifications were not neglected, so that 
 
 12
 
 The City of London 
 
 London was the only place in England that could 
 withstand the Danes. In 982, the city suffered from 
 a terrible fire, but the walls and gates were not in- 
 jured. The Southwark end of the bridge must have 
 been well fortified ; because, in order to get above the 
 bridge, Canute had to dig a canal around Southwark 
 for his boats. When Canute became king, London's 
 tribute was one-seventh of the entire sum contributed 
 by the country. Edward -the Confessor held his par- 
 liaments in this city and built Westminster Abbey, 
 which was consecrated in 1065. 
 
 After the battle of Hastings, the Londoners at first 
 successfully resisted William the Conqueror, but soon 
 thought it wise to submit. William needed a strong- 
 hold to overawe the citizens; and the White Tower 
 was commenced in 1078. In 1083 St. Paul's was 
 also begun on the site of the old church founded by 
 Ethelbert in 610. The City was now swarming with 
 Norman settlers. It suffered many calamities. In 
 1077 occurred such a fire " as never was before since 
 London was founded." Ten years later, another fire 
 consumed " the greatest and fairest part of the whole 
 City." In 1090, also, a hurricane destroyed many 
 churches and six hundred houses. 
 
 London rapidly became rich and powerful. It was 
 the support of the City that enabled Stephen to hold , 
 his own against Matilda. In 1176, London Bridge 
 was rebuilt with stone. In 1189, the first mayor was 
 elected. 
 
 Henry II. with heavy taxes made the City pay 
 dearly for its hostility to his mother; but his son 
 
 13
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Richard granted many privileges. John also granted 
 several charters. London always knew how to in- 
 crease its power and privileges by giving monetary 
 aid to necessitous princes. 
 
 London was always a turbulent city, jealous of its 
 rights, antagonistic to the King's ministers, sympa- 
 thetic towards rebels and pretenders, and favorable to 
 claimants to the Crown. It sided with De Montfort 
 against Henry III. and attacked the Queen's barge 
 at London Bridge. Bolingbroke was the idol of the 
 Londoners, who gladly helped to make him king and 
 depose Richard II. Edward IV. found similar favor 
 and assistance in deposing Henry VI. His brother, 
 Richard III., also found favor in the City, where he 
 lived at Crosby Hall. Charles I. had to abandon his 
 hated ministers Laud and Strafford to the vengeance 
 of the Londoners, and later flee from his rebellious 
 capital, returning to it only to lose his own head. 
 
 When discontent and misery in the counties broke 
 out into open rebellion, there was always a strong fac- 
 tion in the City ready to welcome and assist the move- 
 ment. In 1381, Wat Tyler and his followers could 
 not have gained the City if the draw of London 
 Bridge had not been lowered by an Alderman and 
 his party. It was only when the mob began to plunder 
 that the City became alarmed. The murder of the 
 Archbishop, the Chancellor and the Treasurer in the 
 Tower and the sack of John of Gaunt's palace were 
 popular acts ; but when the City seemed to be at the 
 mercy of the rabble, the Lord Mayor killed the leader 
 in the presence of the King at Smithfield. 
 
 14
 
 The City of London 
 
 The next popular rising in which London was in- 
 terested was Jack Cade's Kebellion (1450). The 
 Kentish men encamped first at Blackheath and then 
 at Southwark. After a Royal force was defeated the 
 Court agreed to remedy some of the abuses complained 
 of and Jack Cade was admitted into the City where 
 he kept his followers under strict discipline for two 
 days. However, he induced the mayor and judges to 
 condemn Lord Say, one of the most hated of the 
 King's ministers, whose head was immediately cut 
 off in Cheapside by the insurgents. The next day 
 Cade set the example of plundering some houses; 
 and on his return to Southwark, London Bridge was 
 closed against him and successfully resisted a night 
 attack. Cade's army soon dispersed, and he was killed 
 shortly afterwards by an esquire named Iden, who 
 received a rich reward. 
 
 In 1554, after beating the Royal forces Sir Thomas 
 Wyatt tried to take the City, but the Londoners suc- 
 cessfully defended Ludgate, and captured Wyatt and 
 promptly executed him. 
 
 London was always fond of pageantry. One of the 
 most magnificent processions the city ever saw was 
 in 1356 when the Black Prince escorted his prisoner, 
 King John of France, through the streets after his 
 victory at Poitiers. John was lodged at the Savoy, 
 John of Gaunt's great palace in the Strand, which 
 was sacked thirty-five years later by the rebels under 
 Wat Tyler. Many a brilliant cavalcade of knights 
 and ladies passed from the Tower to the tournaments 
 held in Smithfield ; and splendid were the processions 
 
 15
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 of the City Companies, and Watch, -which Royalty 
 often graced with its presence. 
 
 London was frequently scourged with dreadful pes- 
 tilences, the Black Death, the English Sweat, and 
 the Plague carried off thousands of victims in the 
 crowded and unsanitary dwellings in the narrow 
 lanes of the City. The worst visitation of this nature 
 was the Plague of 1665, when 50,000 deaths occurred 
 between June and December. All business was sus- 
 pended, and all who could left the City. Great fires 
 were kindled in the streets to purify the air, and lit- 
 tle was heard but the rumble of the death-cart and the 
 cry : " Bring out your Dead ! " 
 
 In the following year, Old London was practically 
 wiped out by the Great Fire, which was a blessing in 
 disguise, since it destroyed most of the plague-in- 
 fected dwellings. It broke out on September 2, 1666. 
 Fanned by a high wind it raged for nearly a week 
 and consumed eighty-nine churches, four city gates, 
 the Guildhall (all but the walls) and many other 
 public buildings, 13,200 houses and 460 streets. 
 People fled to Hampstead, Highgate, Moorfields and 
 Smithfield ; and the Thames was crowded with boats 
 filled with people and their possessions. Everybody 
 bore his trials heroically; and when the fire stopped 
 " the citizens, instead of complaining, discoursed al- 
 most of nothing but of a survey for rebuilding the 
 city with bricks and large streets." Most of the task 
 was given to Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke. 
 Wren's great work was the rebuilding of St. Paul's 
 and more than fifty parish churches. 
 
 16
 
 The City of London 
 
 What was left of the City standing within the walls 
 covered only seventy-five acres ! Strange to say, only 
 six or eight persons perished ! To commemorate the 
 Great Fire, the Monument was erected on the site of 
 St. Margaret's Church on Fish Street Hill. It was 
 designed by Sir Christopher Wren and consists of a 
 tall fluted column 202 feet high, surmounted by a 
 gilt bronze ornament resembling flames. Originally 
 the Monument had an inscription attributing the con- 
 flagration to the malice of Papists. This fact ac- 
 counts for Pope's couplet: 
 
 " Where London's column pointing to the skies 
 Like a tall bully lifts its head and lies." 
 
 The City was soon rebuilt. 
 
 In 1685, Louis XIV. revoked the Edict of Nantes, 
 thus banishing thousands of the best craftsmen in 
 France. These Huguenots came to London in large 
 numbers and settled in Spitalfields. Being mostly 
 engaged in silk-weaving, they were the founders of 
 the Spitalfields silk industry. 
 
 The City extended rapidly during the eighteenth 
 century. In 1710, Parliament enacted that fifty new 
 churches should be built to supply the spiritual needs 
 of the suburbs. Many of the fashionable streets and 
 squares of the West End were laid out in the days of 
 the Georges. 
 
 The only serious damage inflicted by mob violence 
 at this period was in the " !No Popery," or " Gordon 
 Riots " of 1780. Lord George Gordon was elected 
 
 17
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 president of the Protestant Association of London 
 and headed a mob of about 100,000 people to present 
 a petition to Parliament against the removal of cer- 
 tain penalties and disabilities to which Roman Cath- 
 olics were subject. In a fiery speech, he excited his 
 followers, who immediately began to riot, pillage and 
 destroy. During the disorders which lasted for sev- 
 eral days, Newgate prison was destroyed and the 
 prisoners set free. The mansion of Lord Mansfield, 
 the Chief Justice, and other private dwellings as 
 well as many Roman Catholic chapels were also de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 Since that date, London has been comparatively 
 free from mob excesses, though in 1848 defensive 
 measures were taken against a threatened attack by 
 the Chartists. The mob met south of the river, how- 
 ever; and was prevented from returning to London 
 by strong guards at the bridges; so nothing came 
 of it. 
 
 The city of London ruled by the Lord Mayor and 
 Aldermen covers an area of a little more than one 
 square mile : its resident population is about 25,000. 
 The County of London, administered by the London 
 County Council, constituted by Act of Parliament in 
 1888, has an area of 74,839 acres with a population 
 of more than four and a half millions. This does 
 not include any part of Essex, into which London 
 now extends for many miles. The population of 
 Greater London approaches seven millions, dwelling 
 in about nine hundred thousand houses. It is said 
 that in London there are more Irish than in Dublin, 
 
 18
 
 The City of London 
 
 more Scotch than in Aberdeen, more Jews than in 
 Palestine and more Roman Catholics than in Rome. 
 
 The best way to get an idea of the extent of Lon- 
 don is to go up the Thames. The river flows through 
 the heart of the great city, and from it we can see 
 many of the buildings and sites of historic interest. 
 
 Starting therefore at Woolwich, the north shore is 
 chiefly important for the extensive Victoria and 
 Albert Docks. South Woolwich contains the Royal 
 Arsenal and the Royal Military Academy for the 
 training of cadets for the Artillery and Engineers. 
 
 Next comes Greenwich, with the Hospital, Park 
 and Observatory. 
 
 If we had time, we could stroll through Green- 
 wich Park and see its superb old trees and beautiful 
 flower-gardens ; but we must hasten on our way. The 
 Hospital that we pass was built by William III. for 
 the care of the sailors wounded at the battle of La 
 Hogue ; and stands on the site of Greenwich Palace, 
 where Henry VIII. and his daughters, Mary and 
 Elizabeth, were born; and which was the scene of 
 many brilliant entertainments and historical events. 
 There is a Naval Museum here in which many inter- 
 esting relics are preserved. The " Whitebait Din- 
 ners," for which Greenwich used to be* famous, took 
 place at the Ship. Close by the Ship is the entrance 
 to Greenwich Tunnel, opened for foot-passengers in 
 1892. This, with Blackwell Tunnel and Thames 
 Tunnel, is the only means of crossing the river except 
 by boat till we reach the Tower Bridge. 
 
 What strikes us about this part of the river is its 
 19
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 commercial activity, and the banks we notice, too, are 
 lined with wharves and warehouses. At Limehouse, 
 our boat enters the Pool, where it has to pick its 
 way among boats of all shapes and sizes, and which 
 have come from every port in the world. We are 
 now in the very heart of the wonderful commerce of 
 the British Empire, and realize that the old nickname 
 " City of Masts " was most truthfully given to Lon- 
 don. All along our way, too, we have been passing 
 the great docks, catching glimpses of huge warehouses 
 and masts of shipping. These, however, by no means 
 constitute the whole of the docks of the Port of Lon- 
 don. The lowest down the river are the Tilbury 
 Docks. 
 
 The only features of the banks for some distance 
 are docks and warehouses. Along the north shore 
 from the West India Dock Pier to St. Katharine's 
 Docks is the riverside district of East London. The 
 whole district is very squalid but very cosmopolitan. 
 Men of all nations are seen in the streets, and Lime- 
 house Causeway is the centre of the Chinese settle- 
 ment. 
 
 Soon after leaving Limehouse Pier, we pass the 
 entrance to Limehouse Dock, and the Regent's Canal, 
 which, with its connections, extends to Liverpool. 
 
 Shadwell Church marks the eastern entrance to the 
 London Docks, begun in 1800. 
 
 Rotherhithe now lines the south bank for some dis- 
 tance. Swift makes it the home of his famous Gul- 
 liver. Here is the Thames Tunnel. It never paid 
 as a footway, and is now used exclusively by trains. 
 
 20
 
 The City of London 
 
 The Tunnel Pier is in Wapping, where are also 
 the London Docks. Behind the latter is the notorious 
 Ratcliffe Highway (now St. George Street), with its 
 innumerable rum shops. ISFext comes the old Execu- 
 tion Dock where pirates were executed Captain 
 Kidd, among others, in 1701. They were hanged 
 at low tide, and left there until three tides had 
 washed over them. 
 
 The district on the south side is Bermondsey, fa- 
 mous in olden times for its abbey and its market- 
 garden and mill-streams; but the gardens have dis- 
 appeared under the buildings and the streams are 
 now sewers. Bermondsey' is a very busy place now ; 
 and is the centre of the leather trade. The western 
 portion of Bermondsey fronting the river was for- 
 merly a very squalid place, and the many ditches 
 there formed what was called Jacob's Island. Dick- 
 ens describes it in " Oliver Twist " and makes it the 
 scene of Sikes's death. 
 
 Behind the tall warehouses on the north bank just 
 before we reach the Tower Bridge are St. Katharine's 
 Docks. It was a mean and dirty district; and a 
 church, hospital and 1,250 houses were demolished 
 to provide the twenty-three acros now occupied by the 
 docks. 
 
 The Tower Bridge was begun in 1886. The cen- 
 tral span consists of drawbridges that can be raised 
 to allow big ships to pass. Immediately to the west 
 on the north bank is the Tower of London, with its 
 Traitors' Gate. 
 
 " As to length of days, the Tower has no rival 
 21
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 among palaces and prisons. Old writers date it from 
 the days of Caesar ; a legend taken up by Shakespeare 
 and the poets, in favor of which the name of Caesar's 
 Tower remains in popular use to this very day. A 
 Roman wall can even yet be traced near some parts of 
 the ditch. The buildings as we have them now in 
 block and plan were commenced by William the Con- 
 queror ; and the series of apartments in Caesar's Tower, 
 hall, gallery, council-chamber, chapel were built 
 in the early Norman reigns, and used as a royal 
 residence by all our Norman kings. 
 
 " From the reign of Stephen down to that of Henry 
 of Richmond, CaBsar's Tower (the great Norman 
 keep, now called the White Tower) was a main part 
 of the royal palace. Here were kept the royal ward- 
 robe and the royal jewels ; and hither came with their 
 goodly wares the tiremen, the goldsmiths, the chasers, 
 and embroiderers from Flanders, Italy and Almaigne. 
 Close by were the Mint, the lions' dens, the old 
 archery-grounds, the Court of King's Bench, the 
 Court of Common Pleas, the Queen's Gardens, the 
 royal banqueting-hall ; so that art and trade, science 
 and manners, literature and law, sport and politics 
 find themselves equally at home." l 
 
 The Tower, which is now a government arsenal 
 and fortress, occupies thirteen acres, surrounded by a 
 double line of walls strengthened with towers. These 
 are called the Outer Ward and the Inner Ward ; and 
 in the centre stands conspicuously the great White 
 Tower. The Inner Ward was the royal quarter, to 
 
 1 William Hepworth Dixon. 
 22
 
 The City of London 
 
 which the people had no right of entry ; to the Outer 
 Ward the people had free access. There are four 
 entrances: the Lions' Gate on the west near the old 
 menagerie ; the Iron Gate ; the Water Gate ; and the 
 Traitors' Gate on the Thames. 
 
 " All personages coming to the Tower in honor 
 were landed at the Queen's Stair ; all personages com- 
 ing in disgrace were pushed through the Traitors' 
 Gate. Now a royal barge, with a queen on board, 
 was going forth in her bravery of gold and pennons ; 
 now a lieutenant's boat, returning with a culprit in 
 the stern, a headsman standing at his side, holding in 
 his hand the fatal axe. Beneath this arch has moved 
 a long procession of our proudest poets, our fairest 
 women, our bravest soldiers, our wittiest poets 
 Buckingham and Strafford, Lady Jane Grey, the 
 Princess Elizabeth, William Wallace, David Bruce, 
 Surrey, Raleigh names in which the splendor, po- 
 etry and sentiment of our national story are em- 
 balmed. Most of them left it high in rank and rich 
 in life, to return by the same dark passage in a few 
 hours, poorer than the beggars who stood shivering 
 on the bank ; in the eyes of the law, and in the words 
 of their fellows, already dead" 1 
 
 Amid the old gray-turreted walls, black gates and 
 emerald green of the grass and leafy trees, the pictur- 
 esque scarlet and black costumes of the Yeomen of the 
 Guard or Beef-eaters (a costume dating from the 
 institution of these Warders by Henry VII.) appear 
 to great advantage. 
 
 1 William Hepworth Dixon. 
 23
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Entering by the Lions' Gate, we pass over by means 
 of a bridge the Moat that is now dry and turned into 
 a garden, to the Byeward Tower, and hasten to the 
 famous White Tower, the most ancient part of the 
 fortress. The walls which are surmounted with tur- 
 rets at each corner are from thirteen to fifteen feet 
 thick, and beneath a staircase in the wall, which we 
 ascend, were found the bones of the two young princes 
 murdered by their uncle Richard III. In the dun- 
 geons among others Guy Fawkes was confined. On 
 the first floor, Sir Walter Raleigh was imprisoned for 
 twelve years ; and here he wrote his " History of the 
 World " ; above, on the next floor, is the Chapel of St. 
 John, one of the finest specimens of early Norman 
 architecture in England. On the next floor is the 
 Council Room where Richard II. abdicated ; and the 
 Banqueting Hall where the Kings of England used 
 to hold their Court. Here at the present time is ex- 
 hibited the wonderful collection of armor, including 
 equestrian figures and foot soldiers placed in chron- 
 ological order from the time of Edward I. (1272) to 
 that of James II. (1688). There are also numerous 
 weapons, saddles and helmets; and the walls and 
 ceilings are covered with trophies of weapons marvel- 
 lously arranged in the form of stars, coats-of-arms, 
 and flowers. Among the latter is a large passion flow- 
 er, the petals of which are formed by sabres and the 
 centre by pistols. 
 
 The Armories and the Crown Jewels are the only 
 sights, as a rule, shown to visitors. The latter are 
 now in the Record or Wakefield Tower. 
 
 24
 
 The City of London 
 
 The twelve towers of the Inner Ward have all been 
 used as prisons ; and every stone has a dark story to 
 tell. The sons of Edward IV. are said to have beeit 
 murdered in the Bloody Tower; Elizabeth is said to 
 have been imprisoned in the Bell Tower; and Lady 
 Jane Grey in the Brick Tower. Henry VI. is thought 
 to have been murdered in the Record or Wakefield 
 Tower. The Beef-eater who accompanies us will tell 
 us all the legends and haunted spots ; but let us stop 
 at the northwest corner of the parade at the Chapel 
 of St. Peter ad Vincula, dating from 1305-6, in 
 whose little churchyard many notable personages 
 were buried and in front of which persons of rank 
 were beheaded. Upon a stone here we read : " Site 
 of the ancient scaffold. On this spot Queen Anne 
 Boleyn was beheaded, May 19, 1536." 
 
 No monuments mark the graves of the illustrious 
 victims buried within the church, which include Anne 
 Boleyn, Katherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, Guild- 
 ford Dudley, the Duke of Suffolk, the Duke of Nor- 
 folk, the Earl of Essex, the Countess of Salisbury 
 and many others. 
 
 Tower Hill skirts the Tower. A plate in Trinity 
 Square Gardens now marks the place of the scaffold 
 on which so much of the best blood in England was 
 shed. Among the political offenders who lost their 
 heads here may be mentioned Sir Simon Burley, 
 Knight of the Garter, Sir Thomas More, the Protector 
 Somerset, the Duke of Suffolk, the Earl of Strafford, 
 Archbishop Laud, Algernon Sidney, and the Duke of 
 Monmouth. The last execution was that of Lord 
 
 25
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Lovat, in 1747, for his part in the second Jacobite 
 Rebellion. 
 
 On Tower Hill, also, William Penn was born, and 
 the poet Otway died. On the western side of the Hill 
 is a fragment of the old Roman wall. Here also is 
 situated the Royal Mint. 
 
 Beneath the river, from Tower Hill to Tooley 
 Street, runs the Tower Subway, a tunnel, sixty feet 
 deep, constructed in 1869-70 for foot passengers only. 
 
 The large building with a broad quay in front that 
 we next reach is the Custom House, built in 1814- 
 17, the fourth Custom House erected on or near this 
 site. The first of which there is any record dates 
 from 1385. The building to the west of the Custom 
 House is Billingsgate Market, the great Fish Market. 
 It opens at four o'clock in the morning and is most 
 interesting and characteristic in the early hours. 
 
 Warehouses and wharves fill the bank from here 
 to London Bridge: over them peep the spire of St. 
 Mary Magnus and the tall Monument. 
 
 Opposite St Botolph's wharf, a bridge has always 
 existed since the first record of wooden piles being 
 driven there in 994. During the next two centuries 
 the wooden bridge was thrice renewed. The first 
 " stone bridge with buildings on it " was constructed 
 in 1209. There were nineteen arches in old London 
 Bridge. The seventeenth towards the Surrey shore 
 had a drawbridge, a chapel and a gateway, over which 
 traitors' heads were impaled. 
 
 London Bridge has been the scene of many stirring 
 events. In 1212, three thousand people were im- 
 
 26
 
 The City of London 
 
 prisoned on it by flames and burnt to death. Fifty 
 years later, De Montfort repulsed Henry III. here, 
 and the Londoners attacked the Queen's barge' as she 
 was trying to get through one of the arches. It was 
 traitorously opened to Wat Tyler's rabble in 1381. 
 A few years later, a Scotch and an English knight 
 tilted on the bridge before the King and Court. 
 
 In the days of Queen Elizabeth, fine houses and 
 other buildings adorned with gardens and arbors on 
 their flat roofs lined it on both sides. l^ear the draw- 
 bridge stood " Nonsuch House/' four stories high, 
 built of wood, " made in Holland, marvellously carved 
 and gilt." " As fine as London Bridge " passed into 
 a proverb. 
 
 The northern bank from London Bridge to Black- 
 friars is picturesque and full of historic associations. 
 St. Paul's towers above the buildings that occupy the 
 sites of old castles, palaces and inns. 
 
 Until the middle of the eighteenth century, London 
 Bridge was the only means of crossing the river ex- 
 cept by boat: therefore the Thames was London's 
 great highway. There was no footway on the bridge, 
 and only space enough for two vehicles to pass one 
 another, so that pedestrians had to dodge in and out 
 of the shop entrances on either side. A narrow thor- 
 oughfare between two lines of houses was small ac- 
 commodation for traffic; and so, the Thames water- 
 man early thrived and multiplied. The city streets 
 also were narrow, and often no better than quagmires, 
 so that the most convenient and pleasant way to get 
 from the Tower, say to Charing Cross, or Westmin- 
 
 27
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ster, was by water. Bad roads and bad characters 
 infesting them rendered the river far more safe and 
 desirable as a route to more remote places, whenever 
 available. 
 
 The numerous landing-places made it easy to take 
 a boat for pleasure or business: there were over a 
 hundred of these " stairs/' as they were called, at the 
 beginning of the eighteenth century. Even in Eliza- 
 bethan days, the watermen were more numerous than 
 those engaged in any other calling. In the reign of 
 Queen Anne, also, Strype says : " There be 40,000 
 watermen upon the rolls of the Watermen's Com- 
 pany." 
 
 The Thames from Greenwich to Westminster was 
 used greatly for pleasure and pageantry. Picnics and 
 water parties were every-day enjoyments of the Lon- 
 don citizen. By boat also he visited the Bear Gardens, 
 Vauxhall and other places of entertainment on the 
 Surrey bank. The river was therefore a scene of 
 busy life and animation. Along the north bank were 
 the palaces of royalty and the nobility, each with its 
 wharf or water gate. The royal residences in Tudor 
 times were more numerous than at present, consist- 
 ing of Greenwich, the Tower, Bridewell, Whitehall, 
 Westminster, Chelsea, Hampton Court and Windsor. 
 The magnificent royal barges going from one to an- 
 other, and the splendid barges of the visiting nobles 
 with their gorgeous retinues, were common sights on 
 the river, which was thus enlivened with color and 
 parade. 
 
 Great pageants and ceremonies were also held on 
 28
 
 The City of London 
 
 the water. Up till 1857, the Lord Mayor's Show 
 went to Westminster by water. Ambassadors and 
 royal princes were received and escorted by the stately 
 barges of the Lord Mayor and Companies with various 
 " inventions, music and peals of ordnance." The 
 splendor of some of these was by some writers con- 
 sidered to exceed the Venetian pageants on the an- 
 nual occasion of the espousal of the Adriatic. The 
 last pageant of this nature took place in 1849, when 
 the Prince Consort went down the river in state to 
 open the Coal Exchange. 
 
 In the old days sports of all kinds were held on 
 the water. There were jousts and tiltings on boats 
 with spear and shield, or staff and buckler, as the 
 boats were rowed swiftly past one another. Boat rac- 
 ing among the watermen was very common, one sur- 
 vival of the contests being Doggett's coat-and-badge, 
 still rowed for. One of the favorite jaunts of the 
 citizens was a visit to the " Folly on the Thames," 
 which is described as a floating summer-house with 
 music situated near where Waterloo Bridge now 
 crosses. 
 
 " Even when a hard winter came, our ancestors 
 were not to be denied their fun upon the Thames. 
 For on January 24th, which lasted from the begin- 
 ning of December until well into February, Evelyn 
 says that he saw on the frozen river * bull-baiting, 
 horse and coach races, puppet plays and interludes, 
 cookes and tippling places, so that it seemed a bac- 
 chanalian triumph.' ' 
 
 On the south bank, London Bridge opens into 
 29
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Southwark, popularly known as the Borough. " In 
 the Borough there still remain some half dozen old 
 inns which have preserved their external features un- 
 changed. Great rambling, queer old places, with gal- 
 leries and passages and staircases wide enough and 
 antiquated enough to furnish materials for a hun- 
 dred ghost stories." When Dickens wrote these 
 words, the old Tabard Inn from which Chaucer's 
 Canterbury Pilgrims started on their journey through 
 Kent on that lovely April morning was still stand- 
 ing. The White Hart, a similar inn, also in High 
 Street, mentioned by Shakespeare in Henry VI. and 
 where Mr. Pickwick found Sam Weller engaged as 
 " boots " was not pulled down until 1889. The Mar- 
 shalsea Gaol, familiar to readers of " Little Dor- 
 rit," stood near St. George's Church at the corner 
 of Great Dover and High Streets. 
 
 Behind the warehouses, and almost directly oppo- 
 site Old Swan Pier, we see the square tower of St. 
 Saviour's, since 1905 Southwark Cathedral. It is 
 one of the finest medieval buildings in London. 
 
 The church was entirely rebuilt in the thirteenth 
 century largely by private contribution. The poet 
 Gower, who lies in a fine Gothic tomb within the 
 Church, gave largely to the cause. The Choir and 
 Lady Chapel belong to the early thirteenth century, 
 but the nave has been recently rebuilt. In this church, 
 James I. of Scotland, the Koyal poet, was married to 
 Jane Beaufort, whom he saw in the garden from his 
 prison window at Windsor, as he describes in the 
 " King's Quhair." In St. Saviour's, heretics were 
 
 30
 
 The City of London 
 
 condemned to the fires of Smithfield during the reign 
 of Bloody Mary ; here John Harvard, the founder of 
 Harvard University, was baptized in 1607 ; and here 
 are buried John Gower, Philip Massinger, John 
 Fletcher, Edmond Shakespeare and Alexander 
 Cruden, of Concordance fame. 
 
 From this point as far as Blackfriars Bridge 
 stretches the district known as Bankside, celebrated 
 for its theatres and other places of amusement, and 
 rich in associations with Shakespeare and other Eliza- 
 bethan dramatists and actors. The old Globe Theatre, 
 in which so many of Shakespeare's plays were pro- 
 duced, is supposed to have stood on the site now occu- 
 pied by a large brewery. ]Not far away stood the 
 Eose Theatre, the Hope Theatre, the Swan Theatre, 
 and the Paris Garden Theatre. The latter stood in a 
 garden, " so dark with trees that one man could not 
 see another unless they had lynxes or cats' eyes," Mr. 
 Fleetwood wrote to Lord Burghley in 1578 regarding 
 the secret meetings held here by the French Ambas- 
 sador and his agents. The Paris Garden Theatre was 
 used almost entirely for bear-and-bull baiting. Bear- 
 and-bull baiting also took place in the Bear Gardens 
 here until the reign of William III. 
 
 Westward of Bankside as far as Westminster 
 Bridge, the south side of the river was originally a 
 low swampy tract called Lambeth Marsh which the 
 water covered at every tide. Until about a century 
 ago, it was a district of open fields and deep ditches 
 where a few unsavory places of amusement stood. 
 Sinee, however, the three bridges Blackfriars, Wa- 
 
 31
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 terloo and Westminster were built, the whole bank 
 has been lined with wharves. The only object of 
 interest here is the old shot tower built soon after 
 1782. 
 
 Leaving London Bridge, the iron bridge of three 
 spans that we next pass under leads into Cannon 
 Street Station. This was the site of the old Steel- 
 yard, the headquarters in London of the Hanseatic 
 League. Then we come to two old wharves, Dowgate 
 and Walbrook, which are situated at the mouth of 
 the Walbrook, a small stream that formerly flowed 
 through the city and fell into the Thames at this 
 point. 
 
 Next comes Southwark Bridge of three spans, 
 which Robert Stevenson described as an " example of 
 arch construction confessedly unrivalled as regards 
 its colossal proportions, its architectural effect, and the 
 general simplicity and massive character of its de- 
 tails." 
 
 At this place, in old days, the Fleet, which gave 
 its name to Fleet Street and the old Fleet Prison, fell 
 into the Thames. It was variously called the Fleet 
 River and the Hole-burn (the stream in the hollow) 
 whence the name Holboro. In early days this spot 
 was lined with busy quays, and thronged with boats, 
 but gradually it became a foul ditch, and silted up, 
 and at last had to be covered over. Now it exists 
 only as a sewer. 
 
 Between Blackfriars and Westminster, the north- 
 ern bank is not only rich in historical associations, 
 but is pictorially fine and imposing. The long, broad 
 
 32
 
 The City of London 
 
 stone Victoria Embankment is fringed with trees and 
 backed with splendid buildings and occasionally an 
 ornamental garden where the public can enjoy the 
 trees and flowers and music in the summer. 
 
 The old Strand palaces of the nobility that stood 
 here have been demolished from time to time, and the 
 ground is now occupied by public gardens, govern- 
 ment offices and other institutions. The great build- 
 ing adjoining Waterloo Bridge is Somerset House. 
 It was first built in the reign of Edward VI. by the 
 Protector Somerset. When the Stuarts came to the 
 throne, Somerset House was made a royal residence, 
 especially for the queens. Catherine of Braganza was 
 the last royal personage to live in it. Somerset House 
 was pulled down in 1775 when Buckingham House 
 (now Palace) was given to Queen Charlotte, and the 
 present edifice, designed by Sir William Chambers, 
 was erected. In 1828-31 the east wing, King's Col- 
 lege was added ; and in 1853 the west wing. 
 
 Waterloo Bridge, of nine elliptical granite spans, 
 was opened in 1817 ; it is considered one of the finest 
 stone bridges in the world. Canova declared " it was 
 worthy of the Romans." The Duke of Wellington 
 was the first passenger to cross it. 
 
 The Savoy and Cecil hotels occupy the sites of old 
 palaces; and so does the Adelphi, which comes next. 
 On the edge of the Embankment here stands the fa- 
 mous Cleopatra's Needle, a companion to the one in 
 New York. 
 
 In the Victoria Embankment Gardens, in front of 
 the Adelphi, a band plays on summer evenings ; and 
 
 33
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the gardens are illuminated after dark. The London 
 County Council appoints a committee to raise the 
 musical taste of the million by selecting the pro- 
 grammes from the best composers. 
 
 The buildings between this and Charing Cross 
 Railway Station are on the grounds of a palace that 
 once belonged to the powerful favorite of James I. 
 George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, and Buck- 
 ingham Street keep alive his memory. The old Water 
 Gate is in its original position on the north side of 
 the ornamental gardens. 
 
 The river takes a sharp turn at Charing Cross. 
 The railway bridge was built in 1860-64 to replace 
 the Hungerford Suspension Bridge; and the Char- 
 ing Cross Railway Station occupies the site of old 
 Hungerford Market. We are now approaching West- 
 minster, anciently Thorney (the isle of brambles). 
 In the earliest times a ferry existed between this spot 
 and Lambeth, and thus it formed a link in the old 
 route from the interior of England to the Continent, 
 for people crossed the ferry and passed over the Lam- 
 beth marshes to Blackheath. 
 
 The present bridge, which has seven spans, is the 
 widest of the Thames bridges, and seen from the Sur- 
 rey side it forms a fine foreground for the Houses of 
 Parliament. 
 
 The buildings group beautifully at this point. The 
 Houses of Parliament have a magnificent river front, 
 940 feet long, embellished with statues of the kings 
 and queens of England, and three great towers, the 
 Clock Tower (318 feet), the Middle Tower (300 
 
 34
 
 o 
 
 Q 
 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 EH 
 
 M 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 H 
 
 W 
 H
 
 The City of London 
 
 feet) and the Victoria Tower (340 feet). In the 
 Clock Tower is hung the famous bell called " Big 
 Ben," named for Sir Benjamin Hall, Commissioner 
 of Works. It weighs thirteen tons and booms out the 
 hours, although it has long been cracked. The first 
 stone of the Houses of Parliament, for which the 
 architects were Pugin and Sir Charles Barry, was 
 laid in 1840. The building covers eight acres, con- 
 tains 1,100 apartments, and stands on the site of the 
 old Royal Palace. The public entrance to the build- 
 ings is on the west side, from the Old Palace yard, 
 one of the original court-yards. The long, low struc- 
 ture is finally relieved by the towers. Behind the 
 Houses of Parliament rise the two towers of West- 
 minster Abbey, which comes into full view as we 
 glide along the river. 
 
 We have seen nothing on the opposite bank for 
 a long time but warehouses, etc. ; but at Westminster 
 Bridge begins the Albert Embankment which reaches 
 to Vauxhall Bridge. The red brick building, with 
 white stone facings near Westminster Bridge, is St. 
 Thomas's Hospital, built in 1868-71, but which was 
 founded by the Prior of Bermondsey as an almonry 
 in 1213. Adjoining it is the venerable Lambeth 
 Palace, the London residence of the Archbishops of 
 Canterbury. 
 
 The ancient gray and white building, in its beauti- 
 ful park of eighteen acres, has a picturesque appear- 
 ance. Although much of it has been restored and 
 altered, and the residential portions only date from 
 1830-40, much of the Palace is of great antiquity 
 
 35
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and architectural interest Lambeth Palace was built 
 by the Archbishop of Canterbury in 1189 and rebuilt 
 in 1262. Among the noteworthy features that re- 
 main are the Great Gateway, or Morton's Tower, built 
 by Archbishop Morton in 14861502 and one of the 
 finest Early Tudor gatehouses in existence; the Wa- 
 ter Tower built in 1434-35, also called the Lollards' 
 Tower because some of the Lollards are supposed to 
 have been imprisoned in it, and which contained the 
 water gate through which the Palace was entered from 
 the river; the Chapel, built in 1244-70; Great Hall, 
 or Juxon's Hall, built in 1663 ; and the Guard Koom, 
 or Dining Hall, rebuilt in 1833, but still preserving 
 its original open roof. Many historical associations 
 cluster around Lambeth Palace. Here Wycliff was 
 examined by bishops regarding his religious opinions ; 
 here Anne Boleyn learned by decree that her mar- 
 riage was annulled; here came Wat Tyler and his 
 rabble to behead the Archbishop and plunder and 
 burn the treasures of the Palace ; and here came the 
 mob during the uprisings of the Puritans to attack 
 Archbishop Laud, who, having fortified the keep, de- 
 fended his castle nobly. After the death of Charles 
 I., one of the regicides, Colonel Scott, bought it and 
 made many changes. The Library contains many 
 books and MSS. of great historical interest. 
 
 Close by Lambeth Palace stands the Church of 
 St. Mary, containing tombs of several Archbishops of 
 Canterbury. We now pass under Lambeth Bridge, a 
 suspension bridge built in 1862-63. Formerly there 
 was a ferry here, which was used by the fleeing Queen 
 
 36
 
 The City of London 
 
 of James II. with her infant son in 1688, on a stormy 
 night. They took refuge under the tower of St. 
 Mary, Lambeth. 
 
 Returning to the other bank, Grosvenor Embank- 
 ment now begins. In this district was situated Tot- 
 hill Fields, " the Smithfield of western London," 
 where in Queen Elizabeth's time archery, wrestling 
 and other sports were indulged in by the Yeomen 
 class. Bull and bear-baiting and cock-fighting also 
 took place here. 
 
 Near Vauxhall Bridge, and occupying part of the 
 site of old Millbank prison, is the Tate Gallery, 
 founded by Sir Henry Tate and opened in 1897. 
 It is devoted to modern British art. 
 
 Almost directly opposite, on the south bank, just 
 before we come to Vauxhall Bridge, were situated 
 the old Vauxhall Gardens, opened in 1660, celebrated 
 for their fetes, masquerades, fireworks, musical and 
 dramatic entertainments; and so often alluded to by 
 Pepys, Evelyn, Horace Walpole, and other contem- 
 porary writers. They were not finally closed until 
 1859. 
 
 The next bridges that we pass are the Pimlico Rail- 
 way Bridge and the Chelsea or Victoria Bridge. 
 Chelsea Bridge marks the beginning of Chelsea which, 
 until the beginning of the last century, was a country 
 village, but which is now a part of London. The 
 Chelsea Embankment, extending from the Chelsea 
 Bridge to Battersea Bridge, was built in 1871-74. 
 The large building that stands in extensive grounds 
 is Chelsea Hospital for old and invalid soldiers. The 
 
 37
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 building was designed by Sir Christopher "Wren. 
 Next comes Cheyne Walk, a row of red brick houses 
 famous for their associations. George Eliot lived 
 and died in No. 4 ; Rossetti, the poet and painter, and 
 Swinburne lived in No. 16, called the Queen's House, 
 because it was the residence of Catherine of Brag- 
 anza, the neglected wife of Charles II. ; the famous 
 dandy Count D'Orsay lived in No. 19 ; and No. 18 
 was Don Saltero's Museum and Coffee House, often 
 alluded to by Steele, Swift and others. From No. 18 
 to Oakley Street marks the space occupied by Henry 
 VIII. 's Manor House, built in 1536. Here Queen 
 Elizabeth spent much of her girlhood. Thomas Car- 
 lyle also lived in Cheyne Walk, the house being now 
 a Carlyle museum. 
 
 Battersea Bridge is the second of the name. The 
 first Battersea Bridge was a picturesque old timber 
 bridge of nineteen spans. Cheyne Walk still con- 
 tinues along the north bank and includes old Lind- 
 say Row where Whistler once lived ; and below these 
 five houses the painter Turner resided. Here, too, 
 was situated Chelsea Farm, the home of the religious 
 Lady Huntingdon, which subsequently became Cre- 
 morne House and later Cremorne Gardens, a well- 
 known place of amusement. Nothing has attracted 
 our attention on the south side of the river since 
 we left Lambeth, but now Battersea Park comes into 
 view. This was formerly Battersea Fields, where 
 the Duke of Wellington, when Prime Minister, fought 
 a duel with the Earl of Winchelsea in 1829. 
 
 Battersea, Wands worth and Putney (also on the 
 38
 
 The City of London 
 
 south bank), were once separate rural villages; but 
 are now absorbed into London. The monotony of the 
 other side of the river beyond Wandsworth Bridge, 
 opened in 1873, is occasionally broken by handsome 
 houses and grounds, one of which is Hurlingham 
 House, built in 1760, now the headquarters of a club 
 devoted to polo, tennis, archery, etc. Farther along 
 comes Mulgrave House, built in the middle of the 
 eighteenth century and resided in by various notable 
 tenants; and then comes Fulham, famous for its lit- 
 erary associations. The old Gothic Tower of All 
 Saints Church (96 feet high), immediately west of 
 Putney (or Fulham) Bridge, dates from 1440; but 
 the church has been rebuilt. 
 
 Behind Fulham Park stands Fulham Palace, the 
 official residence of the Bishops of London, an old 
 Tudor building of red and black bricks, the best por- 
 tions of which are the Gothic Tower, the Great Hall, 
 Bishop Tait's Chapel (modern), and the Porteous 
 Library. The old barn is nearly four centuries old, 
 and the gardens are notable. 
 
 Piers and wharves now mark the site of villas with 
 gardens that once lined the bank until we reach busy 
 Hammersmith, once famous for its market-gardens, 
 dairy-farms, orchards and fine residences. Beyond 
 Hammersmith Bridge and Pier appears the first of 
 the small islands that mark the upper Thames, Chis- 
 wick Eyot. We will now return and land at West- 
 minster. 
 
 The first Palace of Westminster was built by King 
 Canute, and was burned down in the reign of Edward 
 
 39
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the Confessor, who erected another in which he died. 
 Here the Kings of England resided until Henry 
 VIII. removed to Whitehall. The Palace was 
 burned in 1834. The only portions that escaped the 
 flames were Westminster Hall and St. Stephen's 
 Crypt. 
 
 Westminster Hall is one of the oldest and most in- 
 teresting "buildings in London. The first hall was 
 built by William Rufus in 1097, and was almost en- 
 tirely destroyed by fire in 1291. It was restored in 
 1398, by Richard II., who gave it the fine oak roof. 
 The hall is 290 feet long, 68 feet broad and 92 feet 
 high, and is said to be the largest room in the world 
 unsupported by pillars. From the days of William 
 Rufus, Coronation banquets were always held in this 
 Hall, which has witnessed so many great scenes. 
 Some of the earliest councils and parliaments were 
 held here, and also royal courts of justice. In West- 
 minster Hall, Edward III. received the Black Prince 
 after the Battle of Poitiers; here Richard II. was 
 deposed ; here Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated Lord 
 Protector; here were held the Trial of the Seven 
 Bishops, and the trial of Warren Hastings ; and here 
 Sir Thomas More, Sir Thomas Wyat, the Duke of 
 Norfolk, the Earl of Essex, the Protector Somerset, 
 Charles I., Guy Fawkes and the Earl of StrafFord 
 were condemned to death. 
 
 From 1547 to 1834, the House of Commons used 
 St. Stephen's Chapel, which was built by King Steph- 
 en, and rebuilt by Edward I. and Edward II. The 
 Crypt only remains. The name, however, survives, 
 
 40
 
 The City of London 
 
 in St. Stephen's Porch and St. Stephen's Hall, 
 through which we pass to enter the Octagon Hall. 
 On the right of the latter is the House of Lords, and 
 on the left the House of Commons. 
 
 Westminster Abbey is built in the form of a Latin 
 cross with twelve chapels beyond the arms or tran- 
 sept. It is one of the most beautiful churches in 
 the world. Columns and arches of noble proportions, 
 marvellous carvings, shadowy aisles, and the soft 
 light from old stained-glass windows give an impres- 
 sion of solemn beauty that is never forgotten. 
 
 According to tradition, Sebert, King of the East 
 Saxons, who died in 616, erected a church here that 
 was dedicated to St. Peter. This, having fallen into 
 ruin, was rebuilt and restored by King Edgar, who 
 also founded here a Benedictine monastery. The 
 present Westminster Abbey had its "origin with Ed- 
 ward the Confessor. The church was consecrated on 
 December 28, 1065, a week before the King's death. 
 
 Nothing remains of it but the Chapel of the Pyx. 
 Near the South Transept, the lower walls of the 
 South Cloister, and part of the Refectory. Henry 
 III. built the Confessor's Chapel, the side aisles and 
 their chapels, and the choir and transepts. Edward 
 I. made other additions; in the reign of Edward 
 III. the Jerusalem Chamber was added ; and Henry 
 VII. pulled down the Lady Chapel and built his own 
 beautiful addition. 
 
 Westminster Abbey has been the burial-place of 
 England's great dead for more than eight centuries. 
 Kings, queens and other members of royal families 
 
 41
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 lie in what Macaulay calls " this great temple of 
 silence and reconciliation." The famous Poet's Cor- 
 ner, containing tombs and monuments to many of 
 England's great men of letters, is situated in the 
 South Transept. It is crowded with busts, monu- 
 ments and tablets on the walls and floor. 
 
 To see the tombs of Chaucer and Edmund Spenser 
 is an experience that is not soon forgotten. Many 
 tombs and monuments to warriors and statesmen are 
 to be seen in the North Transept ; and all the chapels 
 contain a goodly stone population: 
 
 " I wandered among what once were chapels, but 
 which are now occupied by the tombs and monuments 
 of the great. At every turn, I met with some illus- 
 trious name, or the cognizance of some powerful 
 house renowned in history. As the eye darts into 
 these dusky chambers of death, it catches glimpses of 
 quaint effigies: some kneeling in niches as if in de- 
 votion; others stretched upon the tombs, with hands 
 piously pressed together; warriors in armour, as if 
 reposing after battle; prelates, with croziers and 
 mitres; and nobles in robes and coronets, lying as it 
 were in State. In glancing over this scene, so 
 strangely populous, yet where every form is so still 
 and silent, it seems almost as if we were treading a 
 mansion of that fabled city, where every being had 
 been suddenly transmuted into stone." l 
 
 The tomb of Sebert, King of the East Saxons, 
 
 616, and his Queen Ethelgoda, is the oldest in the 
 
 Abbey. In Edward the Confessor's Chapel, behind 
 
 i Washington Irving. 
 
 42
 
 The City of London 
 
 the High Altar, is his shrine, which was erected in 
 1269 by Henry III. ; also the tombs of Edward I. ; 
 Queen Eleanor ; Henry III. ; Edward III. ; Queen 
 Philippa ; and Eichard III. Here too are preserved 
 the two Coronation Chairs, one of which contains the 
 Stone of Scone, brought from Scone Abbey by Ed- 
 ward I. This stone was reputed to be the one on 
 which Jacob laid his head at Bethel, and it served as 
 a seat for the Kings of Scotland at their coronation. 
 Since Edward I. brought it to England, every Eng- 
 lish monarch sat above it during his coronation. 
 Every English sovereign from Harold the Dane to 
 King Edward VII. has been crowned in Westminster 
 Abbey. 
 
 Of all the chapels, that of Henry VII. is the most 
 beautiful. It is practically a church, consisting of a 
 nave, two aisles and five chapels at the east end. In 
 the nave are the marvellously carved stalls of the 
 Knights of the Bath, above which droop their faded 
 and dusty banners. The whole chapel, which has 
 been described as " the miracle of the world," is a 
 mass of wonderful carving, and the pillars that sup- 
 port the roof are the best examples of what is called 
 " fan-shaped tracery," while the roof itself is fretted 
 with all the delicacy and skill of a spider's web. 
 Here stand the tombs of the founder, Henry VII. 
 and his wife, Elizabeth of York ; and here lie Queen 
 Elizabeth and her victim, Mary, Queen of Scots. 
 Queen Anne also sleeps here. 
 
 On the east side of Westminster are St. Stephen's 
 Cloisters, built by Henry VIII. ; and on the west 
 
 43
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 side is St. Margaret's, the parish church of Westmin- 
 ster, and the especial church of the House of Com- 
 mons. It was founded by Edward the Confessor; 
 and contains some beautiful carvings, and one of the 
 most wonderful old windows in England, ordered by 
 Ferdinand and Isabella in Gouda as a gift to the new 
 chapel that Henry VII. was building in honor of the 
 marriage of his son with their daughter Katherine. 
 The beautiful west window was presented in 1882 by 
 Americans as a memorial to Sir Walter Raleigh, who 
 was beheaded in front of Westminster Palace and 
 buried under the altar of St. Margaret's. On the 
 window is an inscription by James Russell Lowell. 
 
 St. Margaret's contains many fine tombs of per- 
 sonages connected with Elizabethan and Jacobean 
 history. 
 
 From Westminster by way of Parliament Street 
 and Whitehall we reach Charing Cross. This district 
 is now occupied by Government Offices. In old days, 
 the road now called Whitehall was bordered by the 
 buildings and grounds of the Palace of Whitehall, 
 which was originally the town residence of the Arch- 
 bishop of York, and therefore called York House. 
 When Henry VIII. obtained possession of it, the 
 name was changed to Whitehall. 
 
 Here many interesting events took place. Henry 
 VIII. died in Whitehall ; from Whitehall, Elizabeth 
 was carried as prisoner to the Tower ; and to White- 
 hall she returned as Queen of England ; at Whitehall 
 Charles I. was beheaded; here Cromwell lived with 
 his secretary, John Milton, and here Cromwell died ; 
 
 44
 
 The City of London 
 
 here also Charles II. held his court ; and here he died 
 in 1685. After Whitehall was burned, in 1697, St. 
 James's Palace became the royal residence. At pres- 
 ent, only the Banqueting Hall, built by James I., re- 
 mains ; and it was from an opening made in the wall 
 between the central windows that Charles I. stepped 
 on to the scaffold that had been specially erected in 
 the street below. 
 
 Here stands the Horse-Guards, the office of the 
 commander-in-chief of the army, originally the 
 guard-house of the Palace. 
 
 Behind the Horse-Guards lies St. James's Park, 
 bounded by the Mall and Birdcage Walk, leading to 
 Buckingham Palace. 
 
 It contains ninety-one acres and is a beautiful spot 
 with its green grass, fine trees, winding walks and sil- 
 very lake, the home of many aquatic birds of lovely 
 plumage. 
 
 The grounds and buildings of Buckingham Palace 
 occupy about forty-three acres. At the back of the 
 Palace lie the gardens, which are separated by a road, 
 called Constitution Hill, from Green Park, which 
 contains sixty acres. Hyde Park, being the central 
 point of the district in which royalty and the nobil- 
 ity and gentry reside, is the haunt of wealth and 
 fashion. Park Lane skirts the east end, and May- 
 fair and Clubdom are at hand. Hyde Park Corner, 
 therefore, is the entrance the visitor always seeks in 
 order to see swell London, on parade. 
 
 On entering the Park, two roads on the left lead 
 to Kensington Gardens. One is the Carriage Koad 
 
 45
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and the other Rotten Row (probably Route du Roi, 
 the King's Road), London's fashionable ride, a mile 
 and a half long. Early in the morning people ride 
 there for exercise ; at one o'clock, chiefly for parade ; 
 but after luncheon, the Row is deserted. North 
 of Rotten Row lies the Serpentine, a pretty lake 
 made at the instance and cost of Queen Caroline, wife 
 of George II. The Serpentine is a famous racing 
 place for model yachts, and occasionally in the win- 
 ter affords good skating. Beyond the Serpentine is a 
 road called the Ring and the Ladies' Mile. A bridge 
 separates the Serpentine from the Long Water in 
 Kensington Gardens; and beyond the bridge is the 
 Powder Magazine, the starting place for London's 
 Eour-in-Hand and Coaching Clubs during the sea- 
 son. Kensington Gardens (210 acres) adjoins Hyde 
 Park. Here stands Kensington Palace, brought by 
 William III. from the Earl of Nottingham. Queen 
 Anne died here and here Queen Victoria was born. 
 To the south of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens 
 is South Kensington, with its famous Institutes and 
 Museums. 
 
 Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park are bounded 
 on the north by the Bayswater Road. At the Marble 
 Arch, Edgeware Road, and Park Lane, Oxford Street 
 begins; and, with its continuations Holborn and 
 Newgate Street runs eastwards to the general Post 
 Office, at the top of Cheapside. 
 
 On the way down Oxford Street we turn down 
 Duke Street, which takes us into Manchester Square, 
 where stands Hertford House, the present home of 
 
 46
 
 The City of London 
 
 the famous Wallace Collection of pictures, furniture, 
 etc. Farther on we come to Great Russell Street, 
 which will take us to the British Museum, with its 
 great library and its collections of Greek, Roman, 
 Egyptian and Assyrian sculptures and Greek and 
 Etruscan vases. 
 
 Oxford and Holborn Streets form an important 
 shopping thoroughfare. The only important relics of 
 the past are St. Sepulchre's Church and the remains 
 of Christ's Hospital (Bluecoat School) in Newgate 
 Street. 
 
 The bells of St. Sepulchre's always used to toll 
 during a public hanging. This church was injured, 
 but not destroyed, by the Great Eire; and, conse- 
 quently, some of the old building is left. In St. 
 Sepulchre's, Captain John Smith, once Governor of 
 Virginia, is buried. It used to be the custom to 
 present criminals on their way to execution with a 
 nosegay from the steps of St. Sepulchre's; for the 
 church had for its neighbour the old Newgate 
 Prison. 
 
 Near St. Sepulchre's Church, up Giltspur Street, 
 is Pye Corner, where the Great Fire ended. Beyond 
 it is Cock Lane, the scene of the Cock Lane Ghost 
 that excited all London in 1762. Beyond Giltspur 
 Street lies Smithfield, just beyond the City wall, the 
 scene of tournaments, fairs and recreations. Here, 
 too, during the reign of Bloody Mary, the Protestant 
 martyrs were burned. The stake was placed opposite 
 the gate of St. Bartholomew's Priory ; and many 
 charred human bones were dug up at this spot during 
 
 47
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 some excavations in 1849. Here, too, was the scene 
 of the famous Bartholomew Fair, dating from the 
 reign of Henry I., which used to last for a fortnight, 
 with its shows of dancing dogs and bears, morris- 
 dancers, wild beasts, monstrosities, etc. Smithfield 
 Market for the sale of cattle once included nearly all 
 of Smithfield ; but now two smaller markets for fruit 
 and fish extend to Farringdon Street. The fine old 
 church of St Bartholomew the Great is part of the 
 old priory of St. Bartholomew, founded in 1102 by 
 Rahere, the King's minstrel, who became a monk, 
 and was its first prior. St Bartholomew's Hospital, 
 originally a part of the Priory, was also spared by 
 the Great Fire, but was rebuilt by Gibbs in 1730. It 
 is now one of England's most important schools of 
 medicine and surgery. !Near the Priory of St Bar- 
 tholomew, Wat Tyler, at the head of the rebels, was 
 slain by the Mayor of London. 
 
 Returning now to Hyde Park Corner, Piccadilly, 
 which runs from this point to Regent Street, is one 
 of the finest streets in London, devoted to splendid 
 residences and shops that cater to a wealthy class of 
 customers. It is always gay with private equipages, 
 cabs, omnibuses and streams of fashionably dressed 
 people. 
 
 Parallel with Piccadilly is Pall Mall, another 
 street of clubs and brilliant shops and shoppers. Pall 
 Mall brings us back to Trafalgar Square, at which we 
 arrived by way of Whitehall. 
 
 At the north end of Whitehall a very attractive 
 scene is presented. On our left is Pall Mall ; on our 
 
 48
 
 The City of London 
 
 right, the Strand; while directly in front of us lies 
 Trafalgar Square. In 1840-49, Nelson's column was 
 erected; and many years afterwards Landseer's four 
 lions were placed here. In 1832, the National Gal- 
 lery was begun on the north side of the square ; and, 
 in 1874, Northumberland House, the last of the 
 Strand palaces, was pulled down, and Northumber- 
 land Avenue cut through to the river. One old land- 
 mark remains on the east side of the square, the 
 Church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, erected by 
 Gibbs in 1721-26. 
 
 In the Charing Cross Station yard stands a mod- 
 ern copy of Queen Eleanor's Cross, the last of the 
 nine crosses erected in 1291 by Edward I. to mark 
 every spot on which her coffin rested on the funeral 
 procession from Lincoln to Westminster Abbey, 
 whence the name, Charing, i.e. La Chere reine (the 
 dear queen) is said to be derived. The original cross, 
 octagonal and decorated with paintings and gilt metal 
 figures, was removed by the Long Parliament in 
 1647, because it was deemed " superstitious and idol- 
 atrous." For twenty-seven years its site was unoccu- 
 pied; and in the railed-off space the regicides met 
 their fate. On October 13, 1660, Pepys describes 
 Harrison's death: 
 
 " I went out to Charing Cross to see Major-Gen- 
 eral Harrison hanged, drawn and quartered; which 
 was done there, he looking as cheerful as any man 
 could do in that condition. He was presently cut 
 down, and his head and heart shown to the people, 
 at which there were great shouts of joy . . . Thus it 
 
 49
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 was my chance to see the King beheaded at White- 
 hall, and to see the first blood shed in revenge for the 
 King at Charing Cross." 
 
 The Strand is a part of one highway that connects 
 the City of London with the West End. There is 
 little in it to remind us that it follows the strand, or 
 shore, of the Thames. It is lined with theatres, 
 shops and restaurants; and crowded with cabs, om- 
 nibuses, carriages and foot passengers ; and long lines 
 of persons waiting at the theatre doors, are a char- 
 acteristic feature. On our way towards the City we 
 pass two churches St. Mary-le-Strand, built by 
 James Gibbs in 1714-17, on the site where the old 
 May-pole used to stand before the days of the Puri- 
 tans ; and St. Clement's Danes, an ancient church re- 
 built in 1680. Each stands on an island in the great 
 highway. 
 
 Fleet Street is a continuation of the Strand. In 
 the middle of the road is the monument marking the 
 site of Temple Bar, now removed to Theobald's Park, 
 Waltham Cross, Herts. Here are the Law Courts, 
 an extensive structure of the Gothic style of architec- 
 ture. The Law Courts were removed from Westmin- 
 ster in 1882. 
 
 South of Fleet Street lie the Temple buildings, 
 consisting of the Inner Temple Hall and Library, and 
 the Middle Temple Hall and Library. These two 
 Temples constitute two of the four Inns of Court. 
 The Temple was originally a lodge of the Knights 
 Templar, a religious and military Order founded in 
 Jerusalem in the Twelfth Century to protect the 
 
 50
 
 The City of London 
 
 Holy Sepulchre. "When the order was abolished in 
 1313, its possessions became Crown property. The 
 division into two Halls dates from the time of Henry 
 VI. ; and, ever since that date, the Inner and Middle 
 Temple have been perfectly distinct, although their 
 gateways are close to one another, and their courts 
 and passages join. 
 
 Middle Temple Hall, with its splendid Elizabeth- 
 an roof, was built in 1572. " Twelfth Night " was 
 first played here on February 2, 1601-2. Middle 
 Temple was famous for its feasts and entertain- 
 ments. 
 
 Temple Church, a circular church built by the 
 Knights Templar in 1183, on their return from the 
 Second Crusade, is shared by both the Middle and 
 Inner Temple. The interior is divided into two 
 parts the Round Church and the Choir. The 
 Round Church is the most ancient part ; and here are 
 nine monuments of Templars of the twelfth and 
 thirteenth centuries. 
 
 Oliver Goldsmith, who lived and died in Middle 
 Temple Lane, is buried in the churchyard. 
 
 In order to become a barrister in England the stu- 
 dent has to pass through one of the four Inns of 
 Court, which possess the exclusive right of " calling 
 to the bar." The Inns are governed by older mem- 
 bers called Benchers; and are Lincoln's Inn, Gray's 
 Inn, and the Inner and Middle Temple. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn (off Chancery Lane) derives its 
 name from the Earl of Lincoln, who took the old 
 Blackfriars monastery on. this site for his town house. 
 
 51
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 At his death in 1512, it became an Inn of Court. 
 Some of the buildings date from the time of James I. 
 The splendid library, founded in 1497, is the oldest 
 in London. The fine gateway is one of the four old- 
 est standing in London : it dates from 1518. 
 
 Gray's Inn is not far away, in Holborn ; and takes 
 its name from Lord Gray de Wilton of Henry VII.'s 
 time. It has existed as a law school since 1371. The 
 beautiful Elizabethan Hall was built in 1560; and 
 contains fine wainscots, carvings and stained-glass 
 windows of the Tudor period. In this hall Shake- 
 speare's " Comedy of Errors " was acted in 1594. 
 The fine garden was laid out by Sir Francis Bacon, 
 who studied here ; and died here in his old chambers. 
 Gray's Inn Walks was a fashionable promenade in 
 the seventeenth century. Returning now to Temple 
 Bar: 
 
 Fleet Street, famous for its newspaper offices, was 
 the very cradle of printing. Wynkyn de Worde, an 
 assistant of Caxton, printed books " at the Signe of 
 the Swane in Fletestre " before 1500; and Richarde 
 Pynson printed a book at the " temple barre of Lon- 
 don in 1493." Fleet Street was also a great street 
 for shows and waxworks, also for taverns such as 
 the Mitre, the Cock, the old Cheshire Cheese and 
 the Rainbow. Milton, Izaak Walton, Dr. Johnson, 
 Goldsmith and many other literary lights, haunt 
 Fleet Street. Milton once lived near St. Bride's, ad- 
 joining the old office of Punch. 
 
 Ludgate Hill! The very name takes us back to 
 legendary London, for it is the site of one of the 
 
 52
 
 The City of London 
 
 ancient gates of the City. King Lud is said to have 
 built one here sixty-six years before the birth of 
 Christ. The old gate familiar to the Londoners of 
 the Middle Ages, stood where Ludgate Hill Viaduct 
 crosses the street; and above this looms the noble 
 dome of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Passing under the viaduct, we pause a moment to 
 look at the yard of a famous old inn, La Belle Saw- 
 vage. The inn is supposed to have been named in 
 honor of Pocahontas, who became the rage in Lon- 
 don when she went there as the bride of John Rolfe 
 in 1616. She was presented at Court, and called 
 " La Belle Sauvage" Every novelty bore her name, 
 and many taverns had the beautiful Indian for a 
 sign. 
 
 We now mount the steep Ludgate Hill to St. Paul's 
 Churchyard, and pass the Statue of Queen Anne 
 which fronts us. Old St. Paul's was larger than the 
 present Cathedral. It was one of the most magnifi- 
 cent churches in Europe, of Gothic architecture, like 
 Westminster Abbey, with noble aisles, glowing win- 
 dows, shrines glittering with jewels, and was adorned 
 with rich carvings, and filled with treasures. In the 
 course of time, it had also become a favourite meet- 
 ing place for Londoners in the daytime: here mer- 
 chants transacted their business; here lawyers re- 
 ceived their clients; here servants came to apply for 
 service; and here the fops and gallants came to dis- 
 play their fine costumes. The middle aisle waa 
 called " Paul's Walk " and also " Duke Humphrey's 
 Walk," from a mistaken idea that the tomb of the 
 
 53
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Earl of Warwick was that of Humphrey, Duke of 
 Gloucester. Anyone who was forced to go dinner- 
 less for lack of means or invitations used to say that 
 he had " dined with Duke Humphrey." During the 
 Puritan rule, the Parliamentary soldiers played 
 nine-pins in the churchyard, and stabled their horses 
 in the building 
 
 In the north-east corner of the churchyard stood 
 Paul's Cross, a wooden pulpit covered with lead stand- 
 ing on stone steps and surmounted by a cross, from 
 which sermons were preached, Papal Bulls issued, 
 excommunications announced and heretics carried 
 off to Smithfield. Here Jane Shore did penance in 
 a white sheet with a taper in her hand in the fif- 
 teenth century; and here Queen Elizabeth listened 
 to the thanksgiving sermon for the defeat of the 
 Spanish Armada (November 24, 1588). Parliament 
 had " Paules Cross " destroyed in 1643. 
 
 Eight years elapsed after the Great Fire before 
 the site was cleared for the present St. Paul's, the 
 building of which was entrusted to Sir Christopher 
 Wren. The first stone was laid on June 21, 1675, 
 and the last stone on the lantern of the dome was 
 placed in 1710. 
 
 When Sir Christopher was laying the founda- 
 tions, he came across relics of three different ages: 
 first, Saxon coffins and tombs; next, Roman lamps 
 and arms; and, deeper still, British graves and or- 
 naments. 
 
 The interior is vast and noble. The nave, formed 
 by an arcade resting on massive pillars dividing the 
 
 54
 
 The City of London 
 
 church into a body and two aisles, is separated from 
 the choir by a space over which the cupola rises, and 
 from which the north and south transepts diverge. 
 Under the cupola is the famous Whispering Gallery. 
 The exquisite carvings of the choir-stalls are the 
 work of Grinling Gibbons. The rich marble reredos 
 was put up in 1888 at a cost of nearly 30,000 
 ($150,000). How impressive are the columns, the 
 arches, the lights and shadows, the lamps, the tombs 
 and the rich carvings of the choir! The service is 
 not yet ended; and tones from one of the best or- 
 gans in England flood the whole cathedral with 
 music. The choir-boys are singing an anthem; and, 
 owing to a peculiar echo, their clear bird-like voices 
 seem to float downward from the dome. 
 
 St. Paul's ranks next to Westminster Abbey with 
 regard to its tombs and monuments to honored dead. 
 
 In the Crypt are the graves of Sir Christopher 
 Wren, Sir Joshua Reynolds, J. M. W. Turner, Ben- 
 jamin West (the American painter), Lawrence, 
 Opie, Sir Edward Landseer, Lord Leighton, Sir 
 John Millais, George Cruikshank, and the two great 
 heroes, Nelson and Wellington. The sarcophagus of 
 the former is said to have been made for Henry 
 VIII. at Cardinal Wolsey's expense. The Duke of 
 Wellington's tomb is in the east crypt, a huge block 
 of porphyry on a granite base. His monument is 
 in a chapel in the north transept. 
 
 In the crypt are also preserved the four monu- 
 ments from Old St. Paul's that were spared by the 
 fire: to Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth's 
 
 55
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Lord Chancellor; Sir Nicholas Bacon; Dean Colet, 
 founder of St. Paul's School; and Dr. Donne, the 
 poet, who was dean of St. Paul's from 1621 to 1631. 
 
 There are also many statues and monuments, in- 
 cluding those to Howard the philanthropist, Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds, Lord Cornwallis, Sir Astley Coop- 
 er, Admiral Napier, General Gordon, the Crimean 
 Memorial ; and tablets to heroes of the Boer War. 
 
 We pass on to the south aisle containing the stair- 
 way that leads to the upper parts of the church. We 
 have to climb more than a hundred steps before we 
 reach the Library, a splendid room with a note- 
 worthy inlaid floor of oak, and marvellously carved 
 brackets supporting the gallery, said to be the work 
 of Grinling Gibbons, or one of his pupils. Wren's 
 original model for St. Paul's is here; and also his 
 portrait. A flight of steps from the Library leads 
 to the Whispering Gallery around the dome. This 
 takes its name from its peculiar acoustics. 
 
 We can see the decorations on the dome and look 
 down upon the small figures below, at their devo- 
 tions, or walking about admiring the Cathedral. 
 From this point, we ascend 118 more steps, some of 
 which are very steep, and wind up the wall in odd 
 and unexpected nooks and corners, to the Stone Gal- 
 lery. If you like, you can ascend to the outer Gold- 
 en Gallery at the summit of the dome, and from that 
 steep ladders will take you up to the lantern, ball 
 and cross, altogether 616 steps from the pavement of 
 the church ! 
 
 The best view of the city, however, is to be had 
 56
 
 The City of London 
 
 from the Stone Gallery. We can see as far as Har- 
 row, twelve miles away on the northwest; the Alex- 
 andra Pdace on the north ; Bichmond Hill near the 
 Thames, twelve miles on the southwest; and the 
 Crystal Palace, Shooter's Hill and Greenwich Ob- 
 servatory Hill on the southeast, in Kent. What a 
 great mass of roofs from which the smoke curls 
 gracefully into the air and over which the golden, 
 blue and rose-colored mists come and go, and 
 through which the steeples appear and disappear I 
 And what a forest of steeples there is! 
 
 What strikes us most as we look at the great pano- 
 rama below us is the great number of steeples. 
 Most of these were erected after the Great Fire, and 
 designed by Sir Christopher Wren. 
 
 The most famous is St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside, 
 the famous old Bow Church. You can always re- 
 member its tall steeple (225 feet high) with the 
 dragon ten feet long for a weather vane. Stow tells 
 us that " for divers accidents happening hath been 
 more famous than any other parish church of the 
 whole city or suburbs." 
 
 Bow Bells have long been famous in London his- 
 tory and legend. They used to ring the Curfew at 
 sunset for the gates to be shut. They play an im- 
 portant part in the story of Dick Whittington, who 
 was Lord Mayor of London four times. After a long 
 silence they were rehung in 1905. 
 
 St. Paul's also has its bells. In the Campanile 
 Tower there is a peal of twelve; and in the south- 
 west tower hangs " Great Paul," the largest bell in 
 
 57
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 England, thirty feet in circumference, ten inches 
 thick in metal, and weighing sixteen tons. 
 
 The bells of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, whose chimes 
 faintly reach us as we stand here, used to toll day 
 and night during the Great Plague. St. Giles's es- 
 caped the Great Fire. It was built in 1100, and re- 
 built in 1545. In St. Giles's Oliver Cromwell was 
 married; and in it John Milton is buried. 
 
 Cheapside (from Chepe, meaning market) ex- 
 tends from Newgate Street to the Poultry, and is 
 famous for its shops. Cheapside Cross, one of the 
 nine crosses erected to Queen Eleanor (see page 49) 
 stood at the corner of Wood Street until demolished 
 by Parliament in 1643. Wood Street is now a great 
 district for wholesale millinery. The neighboring 
 Friday Street commemorates a Friday fish market. 
 Bread Street was the birthplace of John Milton. Be- 
 tween Friday and Bread Streets, on the south side 
 of Cheapside, stood the " Mermaid Tavern," where 
 Shakespeare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and other wits 
 and poets congregated. King Street leads out of 
 Cheapside to the Guildhall. Above the porch, where 
 the pigeons are circling, and nesting, we see the 
 arms of the City. 
 
 All that remains of the old Guildhall, built in the 
 reign of Henry IV. (1411) are the old walls, and the 
 Crypt; for it was burned in the Great Fire. The 
 fine Gothic roof was built, and the present front 
 erected, in 1865-68. The great Hall with its open 
 timber roof is very handsome. It is 153 feet long, 48 
 feet broad and 55 feet high, with stained-glass win- 
 
 58
 
 The City of London 
 
 dows at each end. This Hall is used for municipal 
 meetings, the election of the Lord Mayor and mem- 
 bers of Parliament, and great civic entertainments; 
 and here, every ninth of November, the new Lord 
 Mayor gives a great banquet, which is generally at- 
 tended by a thousand guests. On such occasions, the 
 Hall is made magnificent with its hangings of ancient 
 tapestry and its splendid gold service. 
 
 Many historical events have taken place in the 
 Guildhall. Here Richard III. endeavored to make 
 the citizens accept him as King; here Anne Askew, 
 subsequently burnt at Smithfield, was tried for her- 
 esy ; here the Earl of Surrey was tried for high trea- 
 son ; and here Lady Jane Grey and her husband were 
 also tried. The old Crypt, divided by three aisles 
 and clusters of columns, dates from 1417. The Al- 
 derman's Court, a beautiful room with rich carvings 
 and allegorical paintings, was rebuilt by Wren after 
 the Great Fire. In the Library there is a valuable 
 collection of 70,000 books, plays and pamphlets re- 
 lating to the history of London; and the City Mu- 
 seum, in a vaulted chamber below, contains London 
 relics of all kinds, including Roman antiquities and 
 old shop and tavern signs. 
 
 The lower end of Cheapside, known as the Poul- 
 try, opens into a broad space where seven other 
 streets converge. There are Prince's Street, Thread- 
 needle Street, Cornhill, Lombard Street, King Wil- 
 liam Street, Walbrook and Queen Victoria Street. 
 The Bank of England is on the left ; the Royal Ex- 
 change in front; and the Mansion House on the 
 
 59
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Tight. On this spot the multitude of vehicles and 
 pedestrians moving in all directions affords a vivid 
 impression of the business of the City. Between this 
 and Bishopsgate and the Tower to the east are situ- 
 ated the great hanks and insurance offices and whole- 
 sale houses. In no other part of the City is it so 
 busy during the day and so still and desolate at 
 night. 
 
 On the point between Cornhill and Threadneedle 
 Street stands the Royal Exchange with the eques- 
 trian statue of Wellington in front. In the upper 
 floor are Lloyd's Subscription Rooms, where all the 
 shipping is classified and insured. 
 
 The Mansion House, which is the residence of the 
 Lord Mayor, dates from 1739. In this building the 
 Lord Mayor, or one of the Aldermen, sits daily hold- 
 ing the City Police Court ; and here the Lord Mayor 
 and Lady Mayoress entertain in magnificent style. 
 The principal part of the building is called Egyp- 
 tian Hall. 
 
 Nearly opposite the Mansion House is the Bank 
 of England, covering three acres of ground. Thread- 
 needle Street, which gives the bank its popular name, 
 the "Old Lady of Threadneedle Street," takes us 
 into Bishopsgate Street where are a famous old 
 church, St. Helen's, and the palace of Richard III. 
 Crosby Hall. 
 
 St. Helen's is the survival of the Priory of the 
 Nuns of St. Helen's founded in 1216. The double 
 grille of stone near Gresham's tomb is called the 
 " Nun's Grate " ; and in the " Nun's Aisle " every 
 
 60
 
 The City of London 
 
 Sunday morning " good sweet wheaten bread " 
 awaits the poor on a clean white cloth, bequeathed 
 by a donor of the seventeenth century, who lies in 
 this church! Over the tomb of Sir Thomas Gresh- 
 am, founder of the Royal Exchange, hangs his hel- 
 met, carried at his funeral on December 15, 1579. 
 On account of its many tombs and monuments, St. 
 Helen's is sometimes called the " Westminster Abbey 
 of the City." It is interesting, too, for its splendid 
 brasses, particularly in the Chapel of the Virgin, and 
 its carved choir stalls, which are the original seats 
 of the nuns. Shakespeare was a parishioner in 1598, 
 which explains why a stained-glass window was 
 erected to his memory in 1884. 
 
 Among the tombs is that of Sir John Crosby 
 (1475), and his wife, Anneys, he wearing an Alder- 
 man's mantle over his armor and the badge of the 
 House of York around his neck, a collar of suns 
 and roses. In 1461 he built Crosby Hall " a house 
 of stone and timber," says Stow, " very large and 
 beautiful, and the highest that time in London," on 
 land that he leased from the Prioress of St. Helen's. 
 
 Crosby Hall is one of the few houses of the fif- 
 teenth century left standing. The Banqueting Hall 
 has a splendid timber roof and is a stately room. 
 The great window is filled with the arms in stained 
 glass of the various owners ; and there is a very beau- 
 tiful window in the so-called Throne Room. 
 
 Here Richard, Duke of Gloucester, lived and here 
 he held his court. Shakespeare, who knew Crosby 
 Hall very well, since he lived in St. Helen's Parish, 
 
 61
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 makes it the scene in which Lady Anne awaits Rich- 
 ard's return from the funeral of Henry VL, in his 
 play of " Richard III." Sir Thomas More lived here 
 for several years, and probably wrote here his " Life 
 of Richard III." After his execution, his son-in-law, 
 William Roper, leased it. Sir Philip Sidney's sis- 
 ter, the Countess of Pembroke, also lived here. In 
 1672, Crosby Hall became a Presbyterian Meeting 
 house; and, in 1831, a warehouse. Of late years it 
 has been restored, and converted into a restaurant. 
 
 Bishopsgate Street ends at Cornhill, its continua- 
 tion to London Bridge being called Gracechurch 
 Street. Cornhill also ends at this point, Leadenhall 
 Street being the name that continues eastwards to 
 Aldgate. The latter was the gate in the old City wall 
 midway between the Tower and Bishopsgate. Here 
 lies the notorious "Whitechapel, the beginning of the 
 enormous East London, which has swallowed up all 
 the old villages, Bethnal Green, Old Ford, Bow, 
 Hackney, Stratford, etc., and all the land between 
 the Thames and Epping Forest, which is the general 
 playground of the working-classes. 
 
 62
 
 THE CITY OF ANTWERP 
 THE CITY OF RUBENS 
 
 A NTWERP is one of the most important cities 
 ** of Northern Europe. It is a great commer- 
 cial port ; a great fortress ; and a great centre of in- 
 dustry; as well as a great storehouse of Mediaeval 
 and Renaissance Art and Architecture. 
 
 Antwerp was a morass on the edge of a forest full 
 of game when it was first settled by a Germanic tribe. 
 Its first industry was salting and smoking fish, which 
 it bartered in English ports for wool, which was 
 woven into cloth that was soon in demand through- 
 out Northern Europe. The town progressed with 
 astonishing rapidity, as is noted by contemporary 
 writers. In 837, Fulda calls Antwerp a great city; 
 Heda says it is an old and celebrated city; and, at 
 the end of the eleventh century, Sigisbert of Gem- 
 bloux proclaims it a noble metropolis. At this period 
 its present name first appears. 
 
 During the seventh century, the people were con- 
 verted to Christianity by St. Amand. In the ninth 
 century, the place was overrun by the Normans, who 
 fortified it, and made it the headquarters of a do- 
 minion bounded by Ghent, Courtrai, Louvain and 
 Antwerp. They built the Borgt, the ruins of which 
 
 63
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 are still visible, in 885 ; but abandoned it when Hol- 
 lo made peace with Charles the Simple, King of 
 Prance. 
 
 Antwerp flourished again under various Counts of 
 the Empire, the most famous of whom was Godfrey 
 de Bouillon, leader of the First Crusade, and first 
 King of Jerusalem. About this time Tankelm, a 
 predecessor of Wycliff and Luther, preached reform 
 doctrines and gained a great following in Antwerp. 
 He was finally assassinated in a boat in the middle 
 of the Scheldt. His heresy is a favorite subject for 
 pictures by Flemish artists. 
 
 Trade and municipal privileges were constantly 
 extended by the Dukes of Brabant during the thir- 
 teenth and fourteenth centuries. When Edward III. 
 of England resided there with his court in 1340, its 
 commerce was very important, and he made it his 
 principal wool mart. 
 
 When the Brabant Dukes became extinct, the 
 province fell to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. 
 It was then so flourishing that the historian De Corn- 
 mines designated it " The Garden of the Land of 
 Promise." 
 
 The decline of Bruges, by the shoaling of its river, 
 benefited Antwerp. By 1515, the principal traders 
 had all emigrated thither, first the Portuguese 
 Jews, then the Hanseatic firms, and lastly the Eng- 
 lish. In the day of her highest prosperity, during 
 the reign of Charles V., Antwerp's commercial pros- 
 perity was based on banking and manufacture. 
 
 The day of Reformation and Persecution had now 
 64
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 arrived. In the public squares of the city there were 
 daily scenes of horror on the scaffold and at the 
 stake. Finally, the nobles banded together; and the 
 " Compromise " gave the signal for resistance, of 
 which the preachers took advantage to excite the rab- 
 ble. The result was that the Cathedral and churches 
 were pillaged. 
 
 On August 18, 1566, there was the annual pro- 
 cession through the city of the great image of the 
 Virgin, gorgeously arrayed, and accompanied by 
 civil, military and ecclesiastical pomp and music. As 
 the procession passed, disturbances arose in the 
 streets, fomented by fanatical sectaries. When the 
 image reached the Cathedral and was placed behind 
 the grille for safety, it was followed by a howling 
 mob that constantly increased in numbers and tur- 
 bulence. The spirit of riot soon led to the work of 
 destruction. The abolition of all imagery and carv- 
 ing as works of idolatry was urged. Hammers, 
 axes and crow-bars were procured, the monuments 
 were defaced, statues overthrown, painted windows 
 smashed, pictures mutilated and torn to tatters, and 
 delicate carvings demolished. The beautiful handi- 
 work of the pious devotion of centuries was destroyed 
 in a few hours of mob violence. The rage of icon- 
 oclasm immediately spread, and the other churches 
 in Antwerp and neighboring cities were sacked by 
 bands of fanatical puritans. Strange to say, how- 
 ever, there was no looting. In none of the works 
 of desecration was there recorded a single act of per- 
 sonal violence, or appropriation of the treasures scat- 
 
 65
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 tered by the rabble. The scarcity of Mediaeval re- 
 mains in Belgian churches is to be attributed to this 
 St. Bartholomew massacre of Christian art. 
 
 The administration of the cruel Duke of Alva add- 
 ed to Antwerp's woe; but worse was to follow. In 
 1576, the city was sacked by the Spanish soldiery, 
 under secret orders, it is said, of Philip II. This 
 disaster, called the " Spanish Fury " cost seven thou- 
 sand lives, and ruined the city for the time. The 
 pillage lasted for eight days ; and the loss of property 
 was estimated at what would amount to more than 
 two hundred million dollars to-day. The result was 
 that the surviving merchants and bankers decided to 
 emigrate. 
 
 The Spanish Fury is best described in some vivid 
 passages from Mr. Motley's work on the Dutch Re- 
 publics : 
 
 " Cowardice on the part of the Walloon defenders 
 enabled the Spaniards, who had vowed 'to dine in 
 Paradise or sup in Antwerp,' to pass the barriers and 
 force their way with little opposition through the 
 streets crying ' St. James, Spain, blood, flesh, fire, 
 sack ! ' 
 
 "In front of the graceful Exchange, where, in 
 peaceful hours, five thousand merchants met daily 
 to arrange the commercial affairs of Christendom, 
 there was a determined rally, a savage slaughter. 
 The citizens and faithful Germans, in this broader 
 space, made a stand against their pursuers. The tes- 
 selated marble pavement, the graceful cloister-like 
 arcades ran red with blood. The ill-armed burghers 
 
 66
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 faced their enemies clad in complete panoply, but 
 they could only die for their homes. The massacre 
 at this point was enormous, the resistance at last 
 overcome. 
 
 " Meantime, while the short November day was 
 fast declining, the combat still raged in the heart of 
 the city. Various currents of conflict had at last 
 mingled in the Grand' Place. Around this irregular, 
 not very spacious square, stood the gorgeous Hotel de 
 Ville, and the tall, many storied, fantastically ga- 
 bled, richly-decorated palaces of the guilds. Here a 
 long struggle took place. It was terminated for a 
 time by the cavalry who charged decisively into the 
 melee. The masses were broken, but multitudes of 
 armed men found refuge in the buildings, and every 
 house became a fortress. It was difficult to carry 
 the houses by storm, but they were soon set on fire. 
 In a brief interval, the City-hall and other edifices 
 on the square were in flames. The conflagration 
 spread with rapidity, house after house, street after 
 street taking fire. Nearly a thousand buildings, in 
 the most splendid and wealthy quarter of the city, 
 were soon in a blaze, and multitudes of human be- 
 ings were burned with them. The many tortuous 
 streets which led down to the quays were all one vast 
 conflagration. On the other side, the magnificent 
 cathedral, separated from the Grand' Place by a 
 single row of buildings, was lighted up but not at- 
 tacked by the flames. The tall spire cast its gigantic 
 shadow across the last desperate conflict. In the 
 Street called Canal au Sucre there was a fierce strug- 
 
 67
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 gle, a horrible massacre. The heroic margrave of 
 the city fought with the energy of hatred and de- 
 spair. The burgomaster lay dead at his feet; sena- 
 tors, soldiers, citizens, fell fast around him, and he 
 sank at last upon a heap of slain. With him, effec- 
 tual resistance ended. The remaining combatants 
 were butchered, or were slowly forced downward to 
 perish in the Scheldt. Women, children, old men 
 were killed in countless numbers. Never was there 
 a more monstrous massacre, even in the blood-stained 
 history of the Netherlands. It was estimated that 
 in this and the two following days, not less than eight 
 thousand human beings were massacred. The Span- 
 iards seemed to cast off even the vizard of humanity. 
 Hell seemed emptied of its fiends. Night fell upon 
 the scene before the soldiers were masters of the city ; 
 but worse horrors began after the contest was ended. 
 This army of brigands had come thither with a defi- 
 nite practical purpose ; it was avarice, greediness for 
 gold. They had conquered their India at last; its 
 golden mines lay all before them, and every sword 
 should open a shaft. For gold, infants were dashed 
 out of existence in their mothers' arms ; parents were 
 tortured in their children's presence; brides were 
 scourged to death before their husbands' eyes. Wher- 
 ever treasure was suspected, every expedient which 
 ingenuity, sharpened by greediness, could suggest, 
 was employed to extort it from its possessors. The 
 fire had devoured a vast amount of property; there 
 was, however, much left. The strong boxes of the 
 merchants, the gold, silver, and precious jewelry, the 
 
 68
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 velvets, satins, brocades, laces and similar portable 
 plunder were rapidly appropriated. In private 
 houses it was more difficult. The cash, plate, and 
 other valuables of individuals were not so easily dis- 
 covered. Torture was, therefore, at once employed 
 to discover the hidden treasures. After all had been 
 given, if the sum seemed too little, the proprietors 
 were brutally punished for their poverty, or their 
 supposed dissimulation. 
 
 " On the morning of November 5th Antwerp 
 presented a ghastly sight. The more splendid por- 
 tion of the city had been consumed ; at least five hun- 
 dred palaces, mostly of marble or hammered stone, 
 being a smouldering mass of destruction. The dead 
 bodies were on every side. Two days longer the 
 havoc lasted in the city. Of all the crimes which men 
 can commit, hardly one was omitted. Eight thou- 
 sand persons were undoubtedly put to death. Mar- 
 vellously few Spaniards were slain. Two hundred 
 killed is the largest number stated." 
 
 Antwerp's sufferings were not yet at an end. In 
 order to deliver the provinces from Spanish tyranny, 
 William the Silent persuaded the States of Brabant 
 to offer the sovereignty to the Duke of Alenc,on, 
 brother of Henry III. of France. The offer was ac- 
 cepted ; the Duke arrived with an army, but he want- 
 ed to dispense with the tutelage of the States and 
 reign as absolute master. The first step was to seize 
 Antwerp by force. Therefore, on January 16, 1583, 
 he made a pretence of reviewing his troops out- 
 side the Borgerhout gate. He went out, and immedi- 
 
 69
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ately returned at the head of his troops; and mas- 
 sacred the city guard, "and all who offered any re- 
 sistance. The citizens though momentarily surprised, 
 quickly recovered and assumed the offensive. Catho- 
 lics and Protestants alike combined against the 
 treacherous enemy, and soon drove the French out of 
 the city, leaving four thousand dead behind, and 
 with a loss to themselves of only eighty. 
 
 Farnese, Duke of Parma, came to re-establish the 
 Spanish authority. Antwerp was the last refuge of 
 the defeated confederates, and was blockaded for a 
 year. Finally (1585), it capitulated on honorable 
 conditions. In 1589, the population had fallen to 
 55,000, a loss of 75,000 in about a century. 
 
 With commerce destroyed and energies exhausted, 
 Antwerp now entered upon two centuries of torpor, 
 but the once flourishing metropolis shone gloriously 
 in the Arts, under the encouragement of Albert and 
 Isabella. Rubens, whose memory haunts every 
 church and square, conferred a more glorious renown 
 upon his adopted city than she had ever yet attained. 
 Many great masters made his School famous. 
 
 The Dutch, who had long been jealous of the com- 
 mercial supremacy of Antwerp, dreaded a renewal of 
 her activities; and at the close of the Thirty Years' 
 War (1648) they achieved their aim by the Peace 
 of Miinster, which consummated the ruin of the com- 
 merce of Antwerp by closing the Scheldt to naviga- 
 tion, thus diverting shipping to Rotterdam and Am- 
 sterdam. 
 
 Antwerp was wakened from her lethargy by the 
 70
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 French Revolution, heing captured by Labourdon- 
 naye in 1792, and again by Pichegru in 1794. 
 
 Under the Empire, it became the capital of the 
 Department of the Two Netherlands; and then re- 
 covered part of its former splendor. Napoleon had 
 great works constructed there that were to make it 
 one of the great dockyards of the Empire. In 1815 
 Antwerp was constituted a part of the Kingdom of 
 the Netherlands. A statue of General Carnot evinces 
 the gratitude of the inhabitants of Borgerhout for 
 having spared their suburb from demolition in the 
 interest of military defence. 
 
 The Eevolution of 1830 brought separation from 
 Holland. Leopold, first King of the Belgians, made 
 his inaugural entry on July 28, 1831. The next 
 year, the Dutch, under General Chasse, who had 
 shut themselves up in the citadel, were besieged by a 
 French army under Marshal Gerard and forced to 
 capitulate. Since then, Antwerp has steadily in- 
 creased in size and prosperity. 
 
 The best way to enter Antwerp is by water. It is 
 a pleasant experience to make the winding journey 
 up the Scheldt between the low-lying meadows for a 
 couple of hours till the Cathedral spire comes in 
 sight. " It has a strange charm, that snowy needle, 
 for no town is visible ; the plains and the spire have 
 it all to themselves. It grows and grows, and at last 
 we have a glimpse of a town at the corner, as it were ; 
 another turn brings us suddenly into the fine old 
 port. Presently we are gliding past Napoleon'g 
 Docks and the jetties, alas! now made hideous by 
 
 71
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 modern commercial improvements! "Not so many 
 years since, there was the old Flemish wharf, lined 
 with its old green trees, behind which rose a long row 
 of antique houses, with their red-tiled roofs, while 
 over all beetled the exquisite Cathedral spire, at 
 which the passengers gazed with astonishment and 
 pleasure. Now this pleasing vision has been ruth- 
 lessly swept away. An interminable row of hideous 
 iron sheds has been interposed, a new wharf has been 
 thrown far out into the river, the quaint old houses 
 and the trees have been levelled, and the old pictur- 
 esque charm has been abolished." Thus writes an 
 appreciative traveller. 
 
 As a matter of fact, Antwerp has had to sacrifice 
 the picturesqueness of her river front to her commer- 
 cial prosperity. The Scheldt is nearly fifty feet deep 
 there; and the largest ships can dock. 
 
 It is one of the largest ports in Europe, and con- 
 stantly growing. In 1899, 5,613 ships entered ; and 
 the imports were valued at $326,000,000; the ex- 
 ports at $160,000,000. The total population was 
 338,800. 
 
 The quays now extend along the river front for 
 nearly three miles. Behind them are fine roomy 
 warehouses fitted with all modern appliances; and 
 over these is a fine promenade much frequented by 
 the citizens for the view it affords of the shipping 
 and the river. Behind all this on the north and south 
 of the city are the docks, consisting of thirteen large 
 basins of different sizes. 
 
 Antwerp has fifteen gates and about nine hundred 
 72
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 streets and public squares. All the gates are modern, 
 except the Gate of the Scheldt, which was built in 
 1624, in honor of Philip IV. Rubens drew the 
 plans, and Artus Quellin did the carving. The 
 Latin inscription is prophetic of the continued great- 
 ness of the city. It reads : " The Scheldt delights in 
 rolling its obedient waves for him who rules over 
 the Tagus, the Ganges, the Ehine and the Indus. 
 Under thy auspices, great Philip, it will bear the 
 same vessels it formerly bore under the Emperor, 
 thy grandfather." 
 
 At Antwerp, the channel of the Scheldt has an av- 
 erage breadth of 1,000 feet, varying from 900 to 
 2,000 feet, and a mean depth of five fathoms at low 
 tide. This, of course, enables all but the very largest 
 ships to dock. The wharves on the left bank that 
 made Antwerp so prosperous in olden times no long- 
 er exist. None of the existing docks dates earlier 
 than the days of Napoleon; and nearly all the ware- 
 houses over them are modern. The Maison Han- 
 seatique, which was built by the Hanseatic League 
 in 1564, was the last. It was destroyed by fire in 
 1893. 
 
 The dock system is one of the most complete and 
 extensive in the world. It covers an area of eight 
 hundred acres. The oldest docks are the Grand and 
 Petit Bassin, constructed by Napoleon for a great 
 naval dockyard. The modern docks are entered by 
 a broad canal running from the river to the Bassin 
 du Kaitendyk, connecting with the Bassin Mexico, 
 Bassin au Bois and Bassin de Batelage Nord. A 
 
 73
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 little farther west are the African and American 
 basins. 
 
 The busy wharves afford many interesting types 
 of humanity, for Antwerp is a cosmopolitan port. 
 Sailors from all parts of the world, including Lascars 
 and Chinese, are visible. Dock porters in distinctive 
 blouses, with great cloths over their heads and shoul- 
 ders, are carrying big bales of goods, sometimes 
 weighing more than 400 pounds. 
 
 We will now land at the Steen Dock and take a 
 stroll eastwards through the old town, where the 
 principal ancient buildings are found. This pictur- 
 esque neighborhood still retains some flavor of a Me- 
 diaeval town. We immediately come face to face 
 with a monument of human cruelty, the very aspect 
 of which gives rise to a vague terror. It is the Steen, 
 or Borgt, the oldest building in the city. It has been 
 partially restored; and fragmentary as it is, it still 
 bears the traces of a terrible epoch in which so many 
 martyrs suffered torments of which we can scarcely 
 form any idea to-day. 
 
 In all probability, it was rebuilt in 885 by the 
 Normans on the site originally fortified in the 
 eighth century. Later, it was repaired by Louis 
 de Male. The work was well done, as is evident from 
 the remaining masonry, the stones of which are 
 joined with an extremely hard cement. Above the 
 door is a carved figure with uplifted arms of a Scan- 
 dinavian divinity. The upper part of the edifice 
 dates from 1520, when the building was reconstruct- 
 ed and transformed into a State prison. 
 
 74
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 There are several chambers with vaulted and 
 smoothed masonry, water-tight and almost air-tight 
 at need. The Torture-Chamber is the largest. In 
 the middle of the night the prisoner would be sud- 
 denly awakened and taken to that terrible place. 
 There he was solidly fixed against the wall by the 
 iron clamps still there, by the neck, arms and legs, 
 and the torture began. And what an infernal vari- 
 ety of torment was provided ! Steel, fire, water, all 
 afforded means of torture. One chamber served as a 
 cistern, with water up to a man's lips, constantly 
 flowing. A pump handle was within reach : he could 
 keep from drowning as long as his strength held out. 
 
 A man once brought into this prison might as well 
 be regarded as dead. He was only a shadow of his 
 former self, even if acquitted after the examination, 
 under torture. One Antwerp merchant named Van 
 Brenseghem, unjustly put to the torture, was after- 
 wards escorted home in pomp with white wax flam- 
 beaux. The magistracy asked what amends could be 
 made for the injustice he had suffered. He replied 
 that he was rich, and needed no money, but that he 
 had been deprived of repose and health, two things 
 that could not be restored ; but he requested that the 
 instrument of his torture might be attached in per- 
 petuity to his cell as a moral punishment for those 
 who had so unjustly condemned him. 
 
 The cells for the women have no communicating 
 passages with those for the men; and there are not 
 such ferocious implements for the indulgence of 
 " Man's inhumanity to man." Ko effusion of blood 
 
 75
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 was resorted to; only drowning, suffocation and star- 
 vation. 
 
 The instruments of torture were still intact in 
 1794, when they were burned or destroyed during the 
 French invasion. Those now exhibited were collect- 
 ed from other prisons. The collection of old furni- 
 ture here strikes a lighter note one of elegance and 
 comfort and luxury in the olden days. Moreover, 
 there is a collection of local antiquities here, consist- 
 ing of relics of the old city and neighborhood turned 
 up by pick and spade during excavations for improve- 
 ments. These consist of Roman and Mediaeval curi- 
 osities, coins, weapons, jewelry, carvings in stone, 
 wood and ivory. There are specimens of glassware 
 made here after Venetian patterns, porcelain, cos- 
 tumes of other days, and engravings and other old 
 prints of the city. A morning spent in the Steen will 
 be richly repaid with vivid impressions of the life, 
 culture and past prosperity of this busy port. Two 
 objects of special interest are the head of the giant 
 Antigonous, which has been an important feature in 
 every civic procession since the sixteenth century; 
 and the head of the giantess, which is not so old by 
 a couple of centuries. 
 
 Antigonous is a mythical personage who is hon- 
 ored by the native Antwerper as Gog and Magog are 
 by the Cockney in London. The citizens used to de- 
 rive the very name Antwerp from Hand, hand ; wer- 
 pen, to throw. This was because Antigonous was 
 said to have demanded heavy tribute from the cap- 
 tain of every vessel that passed his castle, under pen- 
 
 76
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 alty of having his right hand cut off and thrown into 
 the Scheldt. Finally, a hero, called Salvius Brabo, 
 challenged and overcame the tyrant; and treated him 
 as he treated his victims. In the Grand' Place, 
 there is a modern bronze fountain surmounted by a 
 statue of Salvius, in commemoration of his noble 
 deed. A more famous old well, surmounted by a fig- 
 ure of Salvius holding a severed hand, is in the 
 Marche aux Gants opposite the entrance of the Ca- 
 thedral tower. It is open, wrought ironwork of vine 
 trellis design; and of late fifteenth century work- 
 manship. It is generally attributed to Quentin Mas- 
 sys, who died in 1530. He was originally a black- 
 smith, according to his epitaph, which is now in the 
 museum; but, for love of a painter's daughter, he 
 gave up his craft, and himself became a famous 
 painter more famous than his master. He was the 
 founder of the Antwerp School of Painting, his mas- 
 terpiece, the " Entombment," and other pictures with 
 devout figures full of beauty and expression, may be 
 studied in the museum. 
 
 The colossal figure of Antigonous was the work 
 of the city architect, Peter Coeck of Alost. It first 
 appeared at the solemn entry of Charles V. and his 
 son Philip II. in 1549. The giant is seated and cos- 
 tumed as a Roman general. It is nine feet high; 
 and an internal mechanism allows it to roll its eyes 
 savagely at the spectators. In the eighteenth cen- 
 tury, a companion female figure was provided by the 
 municipality. It was designed by the sculptor 
 Herryns. She is costumed like an antique Minerva ; 
 
 77
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and she used to bow graciously to the admiring mul- 
 titude ; but lately, it is said, she has developed a stiff 
 neck. Other cars in the processions represent a whale 
 straddled by a Cupid; dolphins and Cupids; boats; 
 and a Seventeenth Century Spanish galley, with a 
 full crew at work. 
 
 The Grande Kermesse is held annually in mid- 
 August and lasts for several days. Not so long ago, 
 each parish in the city had its own Kermesse; but 
 now they are all merged in the great communal fes- 
 tival. This would not be complete without the Om- 
 meganck, which is common to every large Flemish 
 town. This is a historical cavalcade and procession 
 of allegorical cars illustrating the legendary lore of 
 the district. It is very popular with the Flemings, 
 and attracts throngs of foreigners also, for the gaieties 
 of Antwerp are widely celebrated. 
 
 The triumphal car now used in processions con- 
 forms closely to the original design by Rubens that 
 hangs in the picture gallery; where are also two 
 sketches of triumphal arches erected in 1635, on the 
 entry into Antwerp of Ferdinand, Archduke of 
 Austria. 
 
 By the way of the quaint old Rue des Orfevres, we 
 next reach the Hotel de Ville, a beautiful building 
 on the Grand' Place, built after the designs of C. de 
 Vriendt in 1561-65. It suffered terribly, as we have 
 seen, during the " Spanish Fury." In 1581, how- 
 ever, the exterior was restored as we see it to-day. 
 The interior received a further restoration about 
 twenty years ago. The rooms and staircases are rich- 
 
 78
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 ly embellished with paintings and carvings, old and 
 new. 
 
 In the Salle des Manages, there is one of those im- 
 mense chimney-pieces which sculptors of old delight- 
 ed to adorn with capricious statuettes, ingenious 
 medallions and elegant bas-reliefs. The principal 
 subject is the " Marriage of Cana," appropriately 
 enough for a hall in which civil marriages are cele- 
 brated. There are three smaller panels in which the 
 carver has represented the " Crucifixion," the " Rais- 
 ing of the Brazen Serpent," and " Abraham's Sac- 
 rifice." The ornaments of the rest of the room are in 
 harmony with this charming work. 
 
 Another fine carved chimney-piece, by the original 
 architect, in the ante-room of the Council Chambers, 
 has for subject the " Judgment of Solomon." 
 
 Before proceeding to the Cathedral, we turn aside 
 slightly to the north, to look at another imposing 
 building the Boucherie, or old Meat Market. This 
 is a big handsome edifice dating from 1501. It is 
 built of red brick and white stone; and has four 
 six-sided turrets. It is a fine example of late Gothic 
 work. 
 
 The Grand' Place is full of old memories, and is 
 bordered by several tall houses belonging to the an- 
 cient guilds,, built during the sixteenth and seven- 
 teenth centuries. The most interesting are those 
 of the Archers, the Carpenters, the Clothiers and the 
 Coopers. In one of the houses on this square 
 (No. 4) the artist, Van Dyck, was born in 1599. 
 From the Grand' Place we gain a fine view of the 
 
 79
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 N 
 
 mighty Cathedral to which we next proceed. Pass- 
 ing through the Marche aux Gants, we reach the 
 tower door, pausing on the way to admire a famous 
 old well of the fifteenth century said to have been 
 made by Quentin Massys. 
 
 Like several other great cathedrals, Notre Dame 
 has only one spire; lack of money and enterprise 
 having prevented the completion of the south-western 
 tower, which is carried to only one-third of the height 
 designed originally; and so it sits like a great prize 
 rabbit with only one long ear erect. Long it is ; but 
 if we make the weary climb of 616 steps to the top 
 (402 feet up) we shall be well repaid by a beauti- 
 ful view of the city and surrounding country. On a 
 clear day, by the aid of glasses, we can trace the 
 windings of the Scheldt to its mouth, and pick out 
 many famous distant towers. Directly across the 
 river is the Vlaamisch Hoofd (Flemish Head), a 
 great fort on an eminence, from which also a fine 
 view of the city may be obtained. At our feet lies 
 the old city with its circling ramparts, now trans- 
 formed into a ring of broad and beautiful boulevards 
 called the Avenues. Within this circuit are most of 
 the old buildings that we shall examine later. Be- 
 yond the Avenues, lie the suburbs; and then, encir- 
 cling all, comes the line of fortifications that renders 
 Antwerp one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. 
 
 The river is crowded with shipping ; and the smil- 
 ing meadows beyond are dotted with farms and vil- 
 lages. Across the flat lands they can hear the bells 
 that are pealing beside us ninety-nine in all, bells 
 
 80
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 that chime, and play hymn-tunes, and operatic and 
 popular airs at different hours in the day; for an 
 ingenious mechanism allows the execution of quite 
 complicated musical compositions. 
 
 Their joyous, warning and solemn tones have been 
 familiar to many generations. The biggest weighs 
 eight tons, and was cast only fifteen years after Am- 
 erica was discovered. When it was baptized Carolus 
 and consecrated to the Glory of God, the great Em- 
 peror Charles V. stood godfather to it. It must be 
 remembered that in the Middle Ages, bells were cast 
 with religious ceremonies ; and, when hung, were bap- 
 tized with the names of their sponsors, sprinkled 
 with holy water, anointed, and covered with the 
 white chrisom, like infants. They were engraved 
 with pious texts, or with inscriptions recording their 
 virtues. Their music was supposed to have as varied 
 efficacy as the lute of Orpheus, the most common in- 
 scription stating : " I bewail funerals, break light- 
 nings, call to worship, dissipate tempests," etc. 
 
 The church tower was often the municipal watch- 
 tower; and, in turbulent times, the beacon-tower, 
 whose blaze called the dwellers in the neighborhood 
 within the walls for safety and defence against at- 
 tack. The individual voices of the bells were known ; 
 and the citizens could tell whether a storm was ap- 
 proaching, or a fire had broken out, or the town 
 guard was to assemble for pressing duty. Thus the 
 most ancient bell here, cast in the Place Verte below, 
 by Gerard de Liege in 1310, proclaims its duties by 
 its name, the Orrida (Dreadful) it was the muni- 
 
 81
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 cipal tocsin, the herald of calamity, that called the 
 town guard to rally. The Marie has other functions : 
 She was first rung at the solemn entry of Charles 
 the Bold into his good city in 1467. 
 
 The great clock dates from 1457: the dial plate 
 was restored in 1869. 
 
 Before going down, we must examine the wonder- 
 ful stone carving of the exterior of the tower, which 
 Charles V. said ought to be put in a cabinet, and 
 only exhibited on special occasions. Napoleon lik- 
 ened it to the beautiful lacework of Mechlin. It is 
 indeed a marvel of lightness and delicacy. 
 
 It is said that this enormous stone needle sways 
 noticeably under the blast of the tempests that are 
 so frequent around the North Sea at the equinoxes; 
 and that this movement is a proof of its solidity. 
 From the top gallery, the view embraces a vast 
 stretch of country, including Northern Brabant, the 
 entire course of the Scheldt down to the sea, the end- 
 less polders of the Flemish coast, and the Campine 
 plains. The view is more limited in the direction of 
 Brussels. The landscape is more broken, more cut 
 up into enclosures, and dotted with villages; and 
 seems to rise above that uniform level which in all 
 other directions sweeps away till it is confounded 
 with the sea. 
 
 On entering the Cathedral, the visitor is impressed 
 by its noble dimensions. For those who take in- 
 terest in figures, the following may be given. The 
 floor space measures seventy thousand square feet, 
 being exceeded by only three other cathedrals in Eu- 
 
 82
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 rope : St. Peter's, Rome ; St. Paul's, London, and the 
 Duomo, Milan. It is 384 feet long and 130 feet 
 high. The transept measures 212 feet across; and 
 the nave, 171 feet. The effect produced by its six 
 columned aisles is very striking; there are 125 pil- 
 lars that produce an air of severity by their lack of 
 capitals. It was begun in 1352, when Gothic archi- 
 tecture was still in full vigor; but it progressed 
 slowly, and took more than two centuries and a half 
 to reach completion in its present condition. Nearly 
 every European cathedral has been partially or wholly 
 destroyed by fire, or earthquake, during its existence, 
 and has had its embellishments defaced and smashed 
 by fanatical image-breakers. Antwerp Cathedral has 
 not escaped these calamities. In 1533, fire destroyed 
 everything inflammable that it contained. During 
 the religious dissensions a generation later, it was 
 sacked by Protestant iconoclasts; and it suffered a 
 similar experience when the Goddess of Reason was 
 set up for worship by the haters of religion on the 
 outbreak of the French Revolution. 
 
 Some of the old glass still adorns the window trac- 
 ery; the restorations are not too gaudy in color, so 
 that a rich, mellow glow floods the carvings in wood 
 and stone, and illumines the vaultings. The lights 
 on the altars, the haze of incense, the chant of the 
 priests and choristers, the faint tinkle of the mass 
 bell, and the devout immobility of the scattered 
 kneeling figures (mostly female), combine to pro- 
 duce a striking effect of grandeur and solemnity. 
 
 Formerly there were thirty-two side chapels : these 
 ' 83
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 were terribly mutilated during the French Revolu- 
 tion, and the majority were demolished later; but, 
 in addition to the Lady Chapel, twelve still remain. 
 
 The richly-carved marble high-altar is adorned by 
 the famous " Assumption of the Virgin," which is 
 regarded as one of the finest religious subjects paint- 
 ed by Rubens. 
 
 The " Assumption " is said to have been painted in 
 sixteen days. The Virgin is represented in the 
 clouds surrounded by adoring angels. On the earth 
 below is a throng of worshipping saints. The color 
 is not so brilliant as is usual with this master; but 
 this is probably the best of the thirteen pictures of 
 this subject which he painted. 
 
 Beautiful as Notre Dame is architecturally, its 
 chief fame rests on two masterpieces by Rubens 
 that adorn the transepts : The " Descent from the 
 Cross," and the "Elevation of the Cross." The 
 former is the more popular, though the latter is pre- 
 ferred by some critics. They were painted within 
 two years of one another the " Elevation " in 1610 ; 
 and the " Descent " in 1612. 
 
 Among other works of art is a beautiful old or- 
 gan case, with a statue of St. Cecilia, which was 
 carved by P. Verbruggen. It is supported by eight 
 marble columns. The mechanism of the great organ 
 of ninety stops is entirely new, having been built in 
 1891. Organ recitals from the works of the best 
 composers are given at high mass on Sundays and 
 holidays. 
 
 The elaborately-carved pulpit is also the work of 
 84
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 Verbruggen. It is supported by four figures emble- 
 matic of the Four Quarters of the World; and is 
 enriched with a multitude of birds and a mass of 
 foliage. 
 
 The choir stalls, although modern, also display 
 great richness and delicacy of ornamentation, with 
 finish and lightness of execution. 
 
 The treasury of Notre-Dame contains very rich 
 examples of early goldsmiths' work, precious both 
 for material and workmanship. The diamonds and 
 ornaments of the Virgin are of considerable value. 
 The banners also of the guilds, richly embroidered 
 and set with precious stones, are of unusual magnifi- 
 cence. 
 
 There is annual procession of Notre Dame in mid- 
 August which is noted throughout the Catholic world 
 for its splendour. It attracts thousands of visitors. 
 
 Antwerp is a city of statues: her famous sons 
 live in bronze or stone in every square and open space 
 in which the city abounds. The most celebrated is 
 the statue of Rubens in the centre of the Place Verte 
 which we enter on leaving the Cathedral by the south 
 door. Peter Paul Rubens was not a native of Ant- 
 werp: he was born in Westphalia in 1577. Till ten 
 years of age, he lived in Cologne, whence, on the 
 death of his father, his accomplished and devoted 
 mother moved to Antwerp. There he studied under 
 Van Noort and Otho Venius; and in 1600, at the 
 age of 23, went to Italy, where he stayed eight years. 
 His great talents won recognition from the great 
 there; and on his return, the Archduke Albert and 
 
 85
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 his wife Isabella employed him both on diplomatic 
 missions and in art work of all kinds. He visited 
 England and Spain in their service, and was also 
 called by Marie de Medici to Paris, where he executed 
 a wonderful series of decorative works. He married 
 his first wife, Isabella Brandt, soon after his return 
 from Italy, when he settled in Antwerp. His studio 
 soon became famous ; and he gathered around him as 
 pupils, or as assistants who were glad to work under 
 his eye, the most able painters of his generation. 
 The most famous of these was Van Dyck. The per- 
 sonality of Rubens overshadows that of all the other 
 masters of the Flemish school of painting. He was 
 great in all branches of his art portraits, landscapes, 
 animals, historical, religious, allegorical and mytho- 
 logical subjects. He also designed triumphal arches, 
 cars, etc., for great State and civic processions and 
 celebrations. Some of these are still used, for the 
 Antwerp citizens are very fond of historical proces- 
 sions and pageantry of all kinds. Rubens died in 
 1640. The three-hundredth anniversary of his birth 
 with celebrated at Antwerp in 1877 with great en- 
 thusiasm and with elaborate and splendid festivities. 
 Of the house in which he lived, No. 7 Rue Rubens, 
 nothing remains but the elaborate Renaissance por- 
 tico and a garden pavilion. Close by (52 Place de 
 Heir) is the so-called House of Rubens's Parents, 
 which was built in 1557. It has a richly-decorated 
 f agade ; and was restored in 1854. The statue in the 
 Place Verte, close to the south porch of the Cathe- 
 dral, represents him in the robes of an ambassador;
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 at his feet lie the scrolls and artists' materials of his 
 double calling. 
 
 Besides Rubens, the city has honored other great 
 Flemish artists with statues: Quentin Massys, at 
 the entrance to the Park ; Van Dyck, in front of the 
 Musee; David Teniers, in the Place Teniers; and 
 Henri Leys, on the Boulevard des Arts. Many other 
 monuments adorn the parks and squares. 
 
 The Place Verte was the old Cathedral burying- 
 ground, but is now a pretty little park with hotels 
 and shops on either side. Opposite the farther end 
 is the Post Office. Every evening in fine weather a 
 municipal band plays compositions by the best com- 
 posers to an interested audience of park loungers and 
 people sitting at little tables before the neighboring 
 cafes and hotels, smoking and drinking. Each of the 
 many guilds and trades-unions of the city has a band 
 made up from its own members ; and musical compe- 
 titions among these are often held in the Place Verte 
 on Sundays and holidays. They take the stand for 
 an hour and the verdict as to superiority is given by 
 the majority of the assembled music enthusiasts. 
 
 Passing now along the Marche aux Souliers we 
 come to the Place de Neir, which is the finest thor- 
 oughfare in the old town. It was formed by arching 
 over an old canal. The Place de Meir is lined with 
 fine shops, hotels, cafes and restaurants frequented 
 by the well-to-do. On the south side is the Palais du 
 Roi } or Palais Royal, built by the architect Baur- 
 scheidt in 1745. It is one of the finest types of the 
 " Pompadour Style " still standing in the country. 
 
 87
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 It was built to the order of the Lord of S' Graven- 
 wezel. Under the French Republic it was seques- 
 tered. Napoleon I. next took possession of it; and 
 since then it has served as a royal residence. Some 
 of the rooms are decorated with beautiful paintings 
 by Vervoort the Younger. 
 
 This neighborhood is the great business centre of 
 the city. Leading out of the beginning of the Place 
 de Meir is the very short E ue des Douze Mois 
 (Twelve Months' Street), which brings us directly 
 to the Exchange (Bourse). The original of this is 
 said to have been the first building of its kind in Eu- 
 rope. It certainly was the first establishment in 
 Antwerp for foreign and native merchants to meet 
 and transact banking and commercial business of all 
 kinds. In Elizabethan days, Sir Thomas Gresham 
 saw it, and admired it so much that he recommended 
 it as a model for the London Exchange. It was built 
 in 1531 in the late Gothic style of architecture, but 
 was ruined by fire fifty years later. Rebuilt in the 
 same style, fire again destroyed it in 1858. The 
 present edifice is considerably larger than the old one ; 
 but is restored in the same style. There are en- 
 trances on all four sides, and the arcades on the 
 ground floor are used by the public as thoroughfares. 
 It is still regarded as the handsomest Exchange in 
 Europe. 
 
 In the immediate neighborhood is the famous 
 Eglise St. Jacques (Church of St. James). 
 
 At the close of the fifteenth century, Antwerp 
 was so rich and populous that the authorities decided 
 
 88
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 that the existing churches did not suffice for the spir- 
 itual needs of all, and therefore determined to build 
 another church as large as Notre Dame: the tower 
 was to be even higher. The site chosen was the old 
 place of public execution. The work was begun in 
 1491, and carried on till interrupted by the troubles 
 of the Reformation, when pious zeal cooled. The 
 bells rang in the tower of St. James's for the first 
 time on June 8th ; 1528. In 1566, it suffered from 
 the depredations of the rabble that devastated the Ca- 
 thedral; and was partly occupied by the Calvinists 
 till 1585. They held their conferences in the great 
 unfinished nave. 
 
 St. James's is far richer in its monuments and 
 other art treasures than the Cathedral is, owing to 
 the fact that it escaped spoliation during the French 
 Revolution, when Notre Dame suffered so cruelly. 
 
 The pulpit is a wonderful piece of carving by L. 
 Willemsens. The great altar of white marble is the 
 work of G. Kerriex and L. Willemsens. The statue 
 of St. James in the middle is by Artus Quellin the 
 Younger. The statues in the choir, as well as the 
 beautiful stalls, were carved in part by the two Ar- 
 thus Quellins, uncle and nephew. 
 
 On the choir-stalls are emblazoned the arms of the 
 nobles who originally occupied them. The one that 
 belonged to Rubens is the twelfth to the left from the 
 entrance. 
 
 The names of the chapels are as follows: 
 
 Presentation of Our Lady, St. Anthony, St. Roch, 
 St. Job, St. Anne, St. John the Baptist, Holy Sacra- 
 
 89
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ment, Trinity, St. Yves, Resurrection, Rubens (be- 
 hind the High Altar), St. Charles, Sts. Peter and 
 Paul, Visitation, Virgin, Cross, St. Hubert, St. 
 Dympne, Three Kings, Holy Name of Jesus and St. 
 Gertrude. 
 
 Of all these, the visitor is most interested in the 
 Rubens chapel. In the vault beneath lie the re- 
 mains of himself, his second wife Helen Fourment, 
 and his descendants. An altar in the grand style of 
 the Renaissance is crowned by a life-size " Mater 
 Dolorosa " in white marble, a lovely work by Luc 
 Faydherbe, left by Rubens himself. The picture 
 above the altar represents the Virgin under a leafy 
 canopy presenting the Child Jesus to St. Jerome ac- 
 companied by Martha and Magdalen. 
 
 In the background, St. George displays a banner, 
 at his feet is the dragon that he has just slain. In 
 the foreground St. Jerome leans upon his lion and a 
 child stands with its back to the spectator. 
 
 In this picture Rubens has immortalized the faces 
 of his family : the Virgin is the portrait of Isabella 
 Brandt, his first wife; Mary Magdalen has the fea- 
 tures of Helen Fourment; the artist himself is St. 
 George ; and St. Jerome is the portrait of his father, 
 Johannes Rubens. 
 
 In two arched spaces in the thickness of the wall 
 on either side of the altar, are two beautiful mar- 
 ble statues by W. Geefs representing the " Dying 
 Christian " and " Eternity." These are monuments 
 of two baronesses, who were descendants of Rubens. 
 Through the various chapels a " Road to Calvary " 
 
 90
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 has been made. This consists of a series of marble 
 bas-reliefs of scenes from the Passion, by J. Geefs 
 and the De Cuyper brothers. 
 
 If we now return to the Place de Meir by the short 
 Rue du Chene and continue our way through the Rue 
 Leys and the Place Teniers with its statue of Teniera 
 the Younger, we arrive at the Avenues, having crossed 
 through the heart of the old city, a distance of about 
 a mile. 
 
 The ramparts enclosing the old town were con- 
 structed in 1540-43. In 1859, they were trans- 
 formed into a belt of fine boulevards, known as the 
 Avenues. Though continuous, they are successively 
 named South, Industry, Arts and Commerce; be- 
 ginning at the Southern Railway Station and end- 
 ing close to the Grand' Bassin, and the other land- 
 locked docks at the north of the city. 
 
 After the levelling of the ground along the old 
 ramparts, rendered necessary by the alignment of the 
 Avenues, the city authorities transformed the old 
 Herenthals fort into a Park. This is a favorite re- 
 sort of nurses and children and people of leisure. 
 The northern end formed part of the old promenade 
 of the ramparts. Landscape gardening making the 
 best use of winding paths, trees, flower-beds, bridges, 
 fountains and statues has made a delightful haunt 
 of this Park. Seats are plentiful and music is pro- 
 vided by the City in fine weather. 
 
 Not far off is another little park called the Pepi- 
 niere. It occupies the site of the old place of execu- 
 tion. People frequent this also in fine weather to 
 
 91
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 listen to the birds and the band. We are now in the 
 suburbs of the wealthy classes. 
 
 Berchem shares with St. Laurent the privilege of 
 being the aristocratic suburb of Antwerp. The dis- 
 trict is calm and tranquil ; and is a great contrast to 
 the noisy and populous suburb of Borgerhout. It is 
 entirely modern in building. On a stone at the bor- 
 der is a carved hand indicating the limit of the old 
 jurisdiction of Antwerp. When the sovereign made 
 his " Joyous Entry/' he always halted here and took 
 an oath in the presence of the Antwerp magistracy to 
 respect the privileges of the City. 
 
 Another favorite resort is the Zoological Gardens, 
 which is one of the finest collections of animals in 
 Europe. It includes two of the biggest elephants in 
 captivity. The grounds are beautifully laid out; 
 there is a fine cafe-restaurant: and band concerts are 
 given twice a week. The Museum containing nat- 
 ural history specimens is large and amply stocked for 
 purposes of study. The big Asiatic quadrupeds are 
 housed in a building representing an Egyptian tem- 
 ple, imitated from the ruins of the Isle of Philse. 
 An Oriental palace shelters the larger pachyderms; 
 and every building is in keeping with the habits and 
 homes of its occupants. Rubens used to go here fre- 
 quently to study the lions for his great animal pic- 
 tures. 
 
 In the south of the old city close to the Avenue du 
 Sud is situated the Musee Royal des Beaux-Arts, a 
 handsome modern building with an impressive por- 
 tico resting on four large Corinthian columns. This 
 
 92
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 Museum contains the picture-gallery of old masters 
 collected from the old monasteries and churches of 
 Antwerp, the Hotel de Ville, and the Steen, and en- 
 riched by private bequests. On the ground floor, we 
 find the Sculpture Gallery, and the Rubens Collec- 
 tion, consisting of reproductions in black and white 
 of his works, and which occupies nine rooms and two 
 side halls. The Vestibule de Keyser, in which a 
 large staircase leads to the picture-gallery above, is 
 decorated with paintings by Nicaise de Keyser, an 
 Antwerp painter (1813-1887), and deal with the 
 hisfory of the Antwerp School of Art. Conspicuous 
 among the painters are Quentin Massys, Frans Flor- 
 is, Rubens, Van Dyck, David Teniers, Jan Brueghel 
 and Jordaens. Here again we are reminded that 
 Antwerp is the city of Rubens, who is so splendidly 
 represented in this gallery by works of every period. 
 His most famous paintings are the gorgeous " Adora- 
 tion of the Magi," the " Holy Family," also called 
 the " Virgin of the Parrot " ; " Christ and the Two 
 Thieves," an "Entombment," "St. Theresa," the 
 " Prodigal Son," the " Communion of St. Francis " 
 and the portraits of " Rockox " and his wife on the 
 wings of the St. Thomas altar-piece. Van Dyck also 
 has a famous " Pieta " here and a fine portrait of a 
 child with two dogs by Jan Fyt; and there is a re- 
 markable " Crucifixion " by Antonello da Messina. 
 
 The great masters who founded the Flemish School 
 of Painting are also well represented. Van Eyck's 
 " St. Barbara " seated by her tower, Roger van der 
 Weyden's " Seven Sacraments," Quentin Massys's 
 
 93
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 " Entombment," and Mending's " Christ as King of 
 Heaven " are the most famous. The latter, a large 
 picture twenty-three feet long and five and a half 
 feet high, represents Christ with six singing angels 
 around him, and on each wing are five angels playing 
 musical instruments. The gallery also contains fine 
 works by Jordaens, Jan Fyt and Snyders. Seven 
 rooms are devoted to modern masters. Here are 
 fully displayed the qualities that have made Belgian 
 art famous again in the last generation. The collec- 
 tion of old masters numbers about eight hundred 
 works and the gallery of modern paintings about three 
 hundred. 
 
 There are other old churches with artistic treas- 
 ures that demand a visit. The oldest of these is St. 
 Paul's, not far from the old Boucherie. 
 
 St. Paul's was begun by the Dominicans in 1248 
 on low ground that was frequently overflowed by 
 the river. In 1540, it was rebuilt on its present site, 
 being completed in 1571. In 1797, the agents of 
 the French Republic seized and sold it. In 1845, 
 it became a parish church. It is still an edifice of 
 great veneration. 
 
 The great choir is lighted by beautiful lancet 
 windows, and up to a certain height its walls as well 
 as those of the nave are covered with fine carved 
 woodwork of the Renaissance style. The choir 
 stalls and confessionals also are richly carved; and 
 are regarded by many people as the finest in the 
 country. 
 
 Above the woodwork on the side walls are fifteen 
 94
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 paintings, the majority of which are signed by great 
 masters. 
 
 The high altar of the choir is approached by 
 fifteen steps: it is adorned with a fine statue of St. 
 Paul, and a " Descent from the Cross " by Cels. 
 The choir also is ornamented with some fine monu- 
 ments and statues of saints. 
 
 Many fine pictures decorate the other altars and 
 walls. Among them, the " Adoration of the Kings " 
 and the " Flagellation " by Kubens, are particularly 
 noticeable. The color of the latter is wonderfully 
 fresh and vivid. Very beautiful also are the pic- 
 tures by Gaspard de Craeyer and Artus Quellin. 
 
 The organ is said to be one of the finest in the 
 country. 
 
 In the enclosure that was formerly the cemetery 
 of the church is a curious construction called The 
 Calvary. It is a sort of mount and grotto, built up 
 of rocks, clinkers, and broken glass and adorned with 
 a number of life-size figures of angels, saints, and 
 martyrs. The top of the slope is as high as the roof 
 of the church, and represents the place of crucifixion. 
 Various groups represent scenes from the Passion. 
 In the cavern at the base is Christ in the sepulchre, 
 an object of great veneration among the faithful. An- 
 other cavern represents Purgatory, in which wooden 
 images of human figures are writhing in the flames. 
 At the entrance are statues of two Dominican monks 
 who went to Jerusalem to get the plans of the Holy 
 Sepulchre. 
 
 There is no more interesting relic of Renaissance 
 95
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 days in Antwerp than the buildings in the MarcJie 
 du Vendredi that was once the home and workshop 
 of Christopher Plantin, the " Prince of Publishers." 
 To the antiquarian and art-student it is interesting as 
 a decorative monument of a most interesting period, 
 for it is a treasure house of painting, sculpture, 
 carved wood-work, wrought metal, porcelain, glass 
 and tapestry. To those who are interested in the 
 " noble art of printing " it affords an unusual oppor- 
 tunity of studying everything connected with book- 
 making in the days of the Revival of Learning. 
 
 Christopher Plantin was born at St. Avertin near 
 Tours (France) between 1514 and 1520. He went 
 to Paris very young and learned bookbinding. He 
 next worked with a printer at Caen, and after a 
 series of more or less lengthy stays in the principal 
 French workshops, particularly Lyons, he went to the 
 Low Countries, and about 1555, founded in Antwerp 
 a printing-house that later became the most important 
 one in the world. There, twenty presses were often 
 in full operation at once ; and the workmen's wages 
 amounted to one hundred ducats, or about two hun- 
 dred dollars a day in present money. His works, 
 like those of Aldus in Venice, were distinguished 
 for their elegance and correctness of printing. Al- 
 though largely self-taught, Plantin was a man of 
 learning, as well as taste. He was well acquainted 
 with foreign languages, as well as Hebrew, Greek, 
 and Latin. He was thus well qualified to print all 
 kinds of works, especially as he had acquired the 
 richest collection of type that could be got. More- 
 
 96
 
 The City of Antwerp 
 
 over, he tried to attain perfection in correctness, even 
 exposing all his proofs at his house-door and offering 
 a reward to anybody who would point out an error. 
 His choice of subjects was admirable: he printed 
 works of Classics, mathematics, Church history and 
 liturgy, science, art, law and philology. A complete 
 collection of his publications may be examined in 
 the Plantin Museum. His house became the centre 
 of intellectual and artistic life. He employed the 
 most famous artists and scholars as illustrators, 
 writers, engravers and proof-readers. The principal 
 of these were Rubens, Van Dyck, Martin de Vos, 
 Van der Broeck, Guicciardini, Dodonaens, Ortelius, 
 Clusins and de Lobel. The chief copper engravers 
 were the Galles, Van de Passes and Wierixes; and 
 the wood engravers, A. Van Leest, A. RTicolai, Geer- 
 nart and Van Kampen. 
 
 Christopher went to Leyden for a time on account 
 of religious disturbance in Antwerp, and founded an- 
 other house. He returned, however, and left the Ley- 
 den business to a son-in-law. He left the Antwerp 
 business to another son-in-law, Johannes Moretus, 
 when he died in 1589. In 1875, E. F. Moretus, a 
 lineal descendant, sold the whole property to the city 
 for $240,000. The buildings surround a courtyard. 
 The part that was used as a dwelling has not been 
 changed since the printer bought it from a certain 
 Martin Lopez. 
 
 To the book-maker, the industrial parts of the old 
 establishment with the old presses, proofs, type, etc., 
 will prove the most interesting. The Bibliophile 
 
 97
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 will rather dwell on the Salle des Bibles and the 
 Manuscript Room. The Salle des Bibles is, more- 
 over, beautifully decorated with fine oak panelling, 
 beautiful furniture of the period, porcelain from the 
 Indies, and family portraits by Rubens and other 
 painters. Similar treasures adorn the Salle des Con- 
 ferences; and the family dwelling rooms form a val- 
 uable museum of domestic art treasures. 
 
 98
 
 THE HAGUE 
 "THE LARGEST VILLAGE IN EUROPE" 
 
 THE HAGUE is first of all a city of fashion, 
 and draws its very life-blood from the Court 
 and the nobility. When the Queen of Holland is in 
 residence, and Parliament is sitting, the stately town 
 houses of the nobility, ambassadors, and fashionable 
 people open, and the Lange Voorhout and the Vyver 
 become gay with equipages, liveried footmen, sol- 
 diers, sentries, officers, and ladies and gentlemen in 
 rich attire. 
 
 It is a town of extreme beauty: it is well cared 
 for ; and has been called " the cleanest capital in Eu- 
 rope." It is charming in the spring, when the pink 
 and white horsechestnuts are in bloom along the 
 Vyver and the lime trees bordering the canals drop 
 their sweet scented petals in the quiet waters ; and it 
 is hardly less attractive when the full leafage of 
 summer turns the Pleins, the Lange Voorhout, the 
 Noordeinde, and the Koninginne Gracht, and other 
 streets and canals into bowers of shade and beauty. 
 
 The Hague is an ancient town. The Dutch call it 
 s'Gravenshage, meaning the Count's Enclosure, or 
 Hedge. It was originally a hunting-seat, or shoot- 
 ing-box, built as far back as 1250, by William, Duke 
 
 99
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 of Holland and Emperor of Germany, on the site of 
 an older residence of his predecessors. Under Count 
 William II. it became the Court residence. It was 
 plundered by the people of Guelderland in 1528; 
 laid waste by the Spaniards in 1574; restored by 
 William I. in 1576 ; and in 1584 was made the seat 
 of the States-General of Holland. Kot being repre- 
 sented in that assembly, it was regarded as " the 
 largest village in Europe," which designation has 
 clung to it. Nevertheless, it was in this village that 
 alliances were concluded which exercised a decisive 
 influence on the course of the history of the seven- 
 teenth century and the first third of the succeeding 
 century. Moreover, at the present day, the most im- 
 portant conferences that affect the future peace and 
 happiness of mankind are held in this " village " in 
 the comparatively insignificant House in the Wood. 
 
 By the latter end of the sixteenth century, The 
 Hague had become the political centre of the coun- 
 try; and, consequently, the scene of all that was 
 bright and gay, and much that was turbulent. 
 
 The Hague was the scene of the tragic death of 
 two Grand Pensionaries, Olden Barneveldt and John 
 de Witt. Jan van Olden Barneveldt was born in 
 Amersfoort in 1547, was a lawyer, a soldier and a 
 diplomatist. He early sympathized with his coun- 
 trymen to throw off the yoke of Spain and fought 
 against the Spaniards at the sieges of Haarlem and 
 Leyden. He headed an embassy to England to offer 
 Queen Elizabeth the sovereignty of the United Prov- 
 inces if she would aid them ; and the Queen refusing 
 
 100
 
 The Hague 
 
 the sovereignty sent an expedition under the Earl of 
 Leicester. When the latter became too arrogant and 
 dictatorial, Barneveldt persuaded the States-General 
 to appoint young Maurice of Nassau Stadtholder 
 and Captain-General; and Leicester was recalled. 
 Barneveldt was sent on various important embassies, 
 and, in 1607, began to negotiate with Spain for a 
 truce, which was concluded in 1609. This excited 
 the opposition of Prince Maurice and his party ; and 
 the two great men, once such firm friends, became 
 the bitterest enemies. The flame was further fanned 
 by the two religious parties, the Gomarites (the 
 Calvinists) which Prince Maurice supported, and 
 the Arrninians which Barneveldt supported. Mau- 
 rice, who wanted to be absolute sovereign, was de- 
 termined to make his the state religion ; Barneveldt, 
 who endeavored to preserve the freedom of the re- 
 public, contended that every province should be free 
 to worship as it pleased. 
 
 The great interview between Prince Maurice and 
 Barneveldt on Aug. 17, 1618, led to no result. 
 About ten days later, Barneveldt and his friends, 
 Hugo Grotius and Hoogerbeets, were arrested and 
 imprisoned. The trial was something of a farce; 
 for although the accusations against Barneveldt 
 were disproved, he was found guilty and condemned 
 to death. He was beheaded on May 14, 1619, and 
 faced death with the utmost courage. 
 
 Another terrible tragedy occured in 1672. John 
 de Witt had been Grand Pensionary of Holland for 
 twenty years. He was head of the Republican 
 
 101
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 party, which was opposed by the Orange party. The 
 latter wanted a hereditary Stadtholder. National 
 disasters at last infuriated the populace, who sought 
 a victim. Cornelis de Witt was falsely accused of 
 plotting the death of "William III. the Stadtholder. 
 He was tortured and condemned to banishment. 
 
 When his brother, John de Witt, hurried to the 
 Gevangenpoort to give him protection, the infuriated 
 mob, believing that both were guilty, forced their 
 way into the prison and tore the brothers limb from 
 limb. Their bodies were buried in the Nieuwe 
 KerJc. 
 
 One of the charms of The Hague is the numbers 
 of squares and parks it contains, not to speak of 
 the beautiful Bosch that lies between it and Schev- 
 eningen, and the Haagsche Bosch in another direc- 
 tion, with its stately avenues of old trees, in which 
 is situated the Huis ten Bosch (House in the Wood). 
 
 There are not as many canals in The Hague as 
 there are in most cities of Holland; but it is dis- 
 tinguished by broad avenues and public squares on 
 which front imposing palaces, dwelling-houses, thea- 
 tres, libraries, churches, museums, hotels, restau- 
 rants, cafes (many surrounded by little gardens), 
 and innumerable shops. The buildings are of gray 
 stone, or red brick, with heavy white cornices and 
 door and window frames ; and they have a very pic- 
 turesque, as well as homelike appearance under the 
 green trees. In many of the dwelling-houses, the up- 
 per floors project beyond the lower ones, standing 
 therefore out of plumb, and are supplied with cranes 
 
 102
 
 9 
 
 of 
 
 H 
 
 w 
 
 H
 
 The Hague 
 
 for hoisting articles, a feature that we frequently 
 see in Dutch buildings. 
 
 The two centres of interest are the Vyver and the 
 Plein. 
 
 The Vyver, or Fish-Pond, is a lake bordered with 
 trees and containing an island planted with rhodo- 
 dendrons, where the swans and other water birds 
 that swim on the glassy surface in such numbers 
 make their nests. The long quay oil one side is a 
 fashionable promenade called The Vyverberg. It is 
 bordered with dwellings of wealthy citizens, among 
 which is the house of Baron Steengracht, who has a 
 noted picture-gallery there. 
 
 Looking across the Vyver, we see the back of the 
 'Binnenhof and the Mauritshuis, that seem to rise 
 out of the lake itself, for the waters wash against 
 their very foundations. 
 
 The Vyver has always been a subject of interest 
 to Dutch painters; and you will notice in the gal- 
 leries of Holland many representations of it at dif- 
 ferent periods. It is not only one of the most at- 
 tractive spots in The Hague; but around it cluster 
 much of the romance and tragedy the city has to tell. 
 
 Suppose we walk around and enter the Binnenhof, 
 the old Palace of the Stadtholders. The name Bin- 
 nenhof (Inner Court) is given both to the group of 
 buildings that forms the Palace, and to the court- 
 yard in which they stand. It is entered by several 
 gates bearing the arms of Holland; but in former 
 days it was surrounded by a moat and approached 
 by drawbridges. Arcades run around the four sides 
 
 103
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 of the courtyard. The oldest part, on the east side 
 of the courtyard, that resembles in some degree a 
 chapel, though it has turrets and a gable, is called the 
 Hall of the Knights. It was built by William II. 
 of Holland in 1249, and enlarged by his son, Floris 
 V. In front of it, Olden Barneveldt was executed 
 in 1619. In the Great Chamber, which is 130 feet 
 long, 62 feet broad and 69 feet high, the States of 
 the Netherlands abjured their allegiance to Philip 
 II. of Spain. 
 
 Courts of justice are held in the Binnenhof ; here 
 the archives of the kingdom are preserved ; and here 
 the two Chambers of the States-General meet. 
 
 The legislative power of Holland is exercised by 
 the Sovereign and the States-General, the latter com- 
 posed of two Chambers: the first (Eerste Kamer} 
 corresponds to the United States Senate; and the 
 second (Tweede Kamer") to the House of Represen- 
 tatives. These two Chambers must always sit at The 
 Hague in the legislative Palace, or Binnenhof. 
 
 The proceedings of Parliament will be interesting 
 to the visitor because they resemble those of Wash- 
 ington rather than Paris. The Second Chamber is 
 rectangular and unornamented. The seats are ar- 
 ranged in an amphitheatre. There is a throne for the 
 Sovereign ; and, facing it, the seat of the President of 
 the Chamber. Above are public galleries. Every ora- 
 tor addresses the President from his seat The Presi- 
 dent uses a gavel for keeping order; but, as a rule, 
 the sittings are quiet, with few interruptions. A 
 call to order is not frequent. 
 
 104
 
 The Hague 
 
 According to law, Parliament meets annually on 
 the third Tuesday in September. The members are 
 not required to take an oath of fealty to the Sover- 
 eign; but one of public probity and fidelity to the 
 Constitution. The Presidents of both Chambers are 
 nominated by the Crown from a list of three selected 
 by the members. No member can be prosecuted for 
 his speech during debate ; and half the members con- 
 stitute a quorum. The Sovereign can dissolve both 
 Chambers if he thinks the public or dynastic inter- 
 est requires such action. 
 
 There are a hundred members in the Second 
 Chamber, who are elected by direct vote. The First 
 Chamber consists of fifty members elected by the 
 Provincial Estates, for a term of nine years. 
 
 The members of the First Chamber are paid eight 
 florins a day ($3.20) during the sessions, and mile- 
 age; the members of the Second Chamber are paid 
 $850 a year, without travelling expenses. 
 
 The Hall used by the First Chamber, formerly 
 used for the sittings of the States-General, contains 
 two elaborately carved chimney-pieces: one, by Jan 
 Lievens, representing "War"; and the other, by 
 Adrian Hanneman, representing " Peace." The 
 richly painted ceiling dates from about 1650. 
 
 The Treves Saloon, built by William III. in 1697, 
 a fine reception-room, with a peculiar echo, is one of 
 the show places in The Hague. 
 
 The Binnenhof was the home of all the Stadt- 
 holders from the days of Maurice of Nassau, who 
 died here in 1625. The Hague is so full of mem- 
 
 105
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 cries of this great Prince of Orange that we may 
 pause to speak briefly of his great career. He was 
 only seventeen when his father William I., called 
 William the Silent, was assassinated in Delft in 
 1584; and, notwithstanding his youth, he was elected 
 Stadtholder. At this period the Spaniards had 
 control of the greater part of the Netherlands; 
 but Prince Maurice rapidly captured one city 
 after another and one fortress after another, and 
 in July, 1600, won the great victory of Nieu- 
 port. Prince Maurice of Nassau therefore was 
 something of an idol with the people. It was 
 against his advice that the States-General signed a 
 twelve-years' treaty of peace with Spain in 1609 ; 
 and quarrels ensued. Olden-Barneveldt, the Grand 
 Pensionary, or Prime Minister, who had been a 
 great friend of Prince Maurice, led the opposition; 
 and the latter, who had ambitions of becoming sover- 
 eign, had the old man, then in his seventy-second 
 year, arrested and condemned to death " for having 
 conspired to dismember the States of the Nether- 
 lands and greatly troubled God's church." The 
 Grand Pensionary was executed, on May 14, 1619, 
 on a scaffold in front of the Binnenhof, as we have, 
 pointed out, and declared he " had ever acted from 
 sincerely pious and patriotic motives." This execu- 
 tion is a stain on the Prince's memory. 
 
 Prince Maurice was succeeded by his brother, 
 Frederick Henry, during whose rule the Dutch 
 reached their height of prosperity, triumphing over 
 the Spaniards by land and sea, extending their com- 
 
 106
 
 The Hague 
 
 merce, especially in the East, and attaining their 
 greatest achievements in painting. 
 
 Adjoining >the Binnenhof is the Mauritshuis, the 
 Palace of Prince John Maurice of Nassau-Siegen, the 
 Dutch West India Company's Governor of Brazil. 
 He spared no thought nor expense to make his house 
 beautiful. The Court architect, Pieter Post, and 
 Jacob van Campen, who built the Dam in Amster- 
 dam, designed the house, which was begun in 1633 
 and finished in 1644, when Prince Maurice returned. 
 The latter sent rare woods from Brazil to decorate 
 the interior; Frans Post painted Brazilian scenes 
 on the walls ; and much heavy gilding made the rooms 
 very brilliant. Sixty years after it was completed, 
 a fire destroyed everything but the walls. The ex- 
 terior was soon restored in the original style; but 
 no attempt was made to repeat the splendor of the 
 interior. In 1820, it was decided to make the Mau- 
 ritshuis the home of the Royal Picture Gallery; and 
 the fine collection that belonged to the Princes of the 
 House of Orange, particularly to the Stadtholder 
 William V. (1748-1800) and to Prince Frederick 
 Henry and his wife, Amalia of Solms, were removed 
 from the Binnenhof. Some of these had been car- 
 ried away by the French army in 1795 and hung in 
 the Louvre. They were returned, however, in 1815, 
 amid the firing of cannon, ringing of bells and gen- 
 eral rejoicing. 
 
 The Hague Gallery, containing five hundred pict- 
 ures, is filled with gems by Dutch and Flemish 
 masters. The most celebrated picture is " The Bull," 
 
 107
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 painted in 1647 by Paul Potter, who was then only 
 twenty-two years of age. When this picture was in 
 the Louvre, it was considered one of the four great- 
 est pictures there, one of the others being Raphael's 
 " Transfiguration." 
 
 The great black and white Bull, almost as large as 
 life, stands on a hill beneath two trees, behind the 
 trunks of which is seen the shepherd with a ram and 
 under which lie a cow, a sheep and a lamb. A vast 
 meadow stretches far in the distance. 
 
 The very hide of the Bull seems to twitch as you 
 look at him, and his fiery eye to grow more savage ; 
 but a still more wonderful triumph of the painter's 
 skill is the face of the cow. Her eyes and her wet, 
 dripping nose and mouth are marvellously true to 
 life. 
 
 There is another splendid picture here also by 
 Paul Potter, called " The Mirrored Cow," which 
 many critics prefer to the " Bull." The picture takes 
 its name from a cow that is standing in the middle of 
 a clear pool with her back to the spectator; and her 
 reflected image is as vivid as herself. Other animals 
 are scattered under the trees near the farmhouse. 
 The beautiful landscape is flooded with sunshine. 
 
 Rembrandt's " Anatomy Lesson," representing Dr. 
 Nicholas Tulp, who is lecturing to seven physicians 
 on the arm of a dead man that has just been cut at 
 the wrist, was painted for the Amsterdam Guild of 
 Surgeons in 1632 ; it made Rembrandt the most 
 popular portrait painter of his time. The work hung 
 in the Surgeons' Hall at Amsterdam until 1828, 
 
 108
 
 The Hague 
 
 when King William I. bought it for 32,000 florins 
 ($12,800). 
 
 Ruysdael's " View of Haarlem," from the dunes 
 of Overveen, represents an immense stretch of country 
 across the meadows all the way to Haarlem, the 
 spires and towers of which appear on the horizon 
 where the Groote KerTc is also conspicuous. In the 
 foreground is a bleaching-ground, where women are 
 spreading linen in front of their long-roofed houses.. 
 All these miles are represented on a little canvas 
 about one foot, eight inches square ! 
 
 There is also a celebrated work by Gerard Dow 
 called " The Good Housekeeper," in which a lady is 
 sitting in her hall sewing beside a cradle and about 
 to superintend the dinner. All around her are birds, 
 game, fish and vegetables. It is a marvel of delicate 
 painting, even for Dow who once spent three days 
 painting a broom the size of his finger-nail. The di- 
 rectors of the East India Company gave this picture 
 to Charles II. when he left Holland, thinking it the 
 best present they could offer him. William, Prince 
 of Orange, who became King of England, brought 
 it back to Holland and hung it in Het Loo t near 
 Zwolle, and still the favorite royal residence. 
 
 Another masterpiece of the first rank is Rubens's 
 Portrait of " Helena Eourment," one of the most 
 beautiful of the many he painted of his second wife. 
 Her complexion is lovely ; her eyes bright ; her mouth 
 like a cherry; and her light hair, roped with pearls, 
 silky and lustrous. The costume is fine blue satin 
 slashed with white, a black velvet cloak with a fur 
 
 109
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 collar; a toque with plume; and splendid jewels. 
 Filmy ruffs ornament her wrists, and in one hand 
 she holds two pink roses. 
 
 Travellers, as a rule, spend so much time at the 
 Mauritshuis that they go away without seeing much 
 of The Hague. 
 
 On the other side of the Binnenhof is a large open 
 space called the Buitenhof (Outer Court) in which 
 is a statue of William II. The Buitenhof is bounded 
 on the northwest side by the Vyver ; and between the 
 Buitenhof and the Floats frowns the ancient tower, 
 the Gevangenpoort, with its gateway that leads from 
 one to the other. 
 
 The Gevangenpoort, in which a collection of in- 
 struments of torture is exhibited, was also the scene 
 of a dark tragedy. Here the de Witt brothers were 
 murdered by the populace. 
 
 From the Gevangenpoort, the Kneuterdyk leads 
 into the Lange Voorhout, the most aristocratic quar- 
 ter of the town, built up with fine residences and 
 planted with beautiful trees. On the east side of the 
 Lange Voorhout, we note the Palace of the Dowager 
 Queen Emma ; on the north side, the Royal Library ; 
 and on the Kneuterdylc and ParJc-Straat, the house 
 of Olden-Barneveldt, now occupied by the Ministry 
 of Finance. 
 
 A good idea of the royal and fashionable district 
 is to be had by passing along the Vyverberg, the 
 Tournooiveld (tilt-yard), and the Lange Voorhout 
 into the wide Noordeinde Straat, past the Royal 
 Palace, and around Willems-Park to Java-Straat; 
 
 110
 
 The Hague 
 
 thence down the canal called Kominginne Gracht, to 
 the Korte Voorhout; into the Tournooiveld again; 
 and thence along the Vyverberg to the Plaats and re- 
 turning to Buitenhof. 
 
 The Royal Palace on the Noordeinde, purchased 
 by the States of the Netherlands in 1595 was rebuilt 
 by Prince William III. and enlarged by King Will- 
 iam I. The exterior is simple enough ; but it is sump- 
 tuous within. A bronze equestrian statue of William 
 I. of Orange, stands in front of the Palace. On the 
 northeast, Paleis-Straat leads through what was once 
 the Palace Garden. Beyond this is the Mauritskade, 
 on the canal called Singelsgracht, beyond which ia 
 Willems-Park, in the centre of which is an open 
 place called the Plein, 1813, with a National Monu- 
 ment commemorating the restoration of the Dutch in- 
 dependence in 1813. On the north of Willems-Park 
 lies Java-Straat, which leads into the Old Scheven- 
 ingen Road. 
 
 It is easy enough to recognize the Plein, a large 
 square in which stands a statue of William I. Here 
 the tramways and electric cars meet; and here we 
 find hotels, business offices and shops. The Plein is 
 the centre of life; and is generally thronged with 
 people. From it lead the Koorte Pooten, the Lange 
 Pooten, and Spui-Straat, the three making one con- 
 tinuous street. Spui-Straat is always gay with 
 promenaders in the afternoon. From the middle of 
 Spui-Straat, an arcade built in the Dutch Renais- 
 sance style and containing many attractive shops, 
 runs north and into the Buitenhof. Again the Buit- 
 
 111
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 enhof ! Again the Binnenhof ! You see we cannot 
 escape these in our walks. 
 
 Spui-Straat and its continuation Vlaming-Straat 
 will take us to the Groenmarkt and the Vischmarkt, 
 the vegetable and fish markets, where we shall see 
 much to interest us. Here are gathered the peasant 
 women, with their quaint caps and short dresses, 
 walking or standing by the side of their little carts 
 piled mountain-high with vegetables and drawn by 
 one, two, or three dogs ; and here are the fish-women 
 from Scheveningen with their bare arms that have 
 turned purple from exposure to the weather, a mat- 
 ter of pride with these hardy females. 
 
 In addition to the market women, the individual 
 types seen in the streets are the orphans in their 
 red and black costumes, the girls wearing also a white 
 linen cap and long chamois skin gloves to the elbow ; 
 a group of men dressed in black with white cravats, 
 crape on their hats and cigars in their mouths, car- 
 rying cards, letters and lists, on their way to invite 
 guests to a funeral; policemen in dark tunics and 
 helmets like Prussian soldiers ; and a Roman Catholic 
 priest, who, instead of a cassock, is dressed in a long 
 redingote, short waistcoat, black stockings, and shoes 
 with silver buckles. You will also see very frequent- 
 ly a woman who wears a kind of skull cap of gold or 
 silver, beautifully polished, which fits the head very 
 closely just above the ears, leaving the forehead bare. 
 In the top there is a round hole for ventilation. This 
 is called a hoofdizer (head-iron) ; and over it is often 
 worn a lace hood, though sometimes a modern bon- 
 
 112
 
 The Hague 
 
 net is perched upon it, which has a very comical ef- 
 fect. Sometimes at the sides of this metal cap and 
 on a level with the eyes are spiral ornaments of gold. 
 These hoofdizers are often handed down from one 
 generation to another as heirlooms. 
 
 Housekeepers in Holland do not go as a rule to 
 market: all the vendors come to the door with their 
 carts. The bell is ringing from seven in the morn- 
 ing until ten o'clock at night. First comes the milk, 
 carried around by means of a little wagon, generally 
 drawn by a dog, with its brass or copper cans and 
 measures shining brightly. By its side walks a man 
 or a woman. Next comes the baker, then the grocer, 
 and then the vegetable seller. At each ring the serv- 
 ant appears with a special basket a long one for 
 the bread; a round one for the vegetables, and a 
 wooden dish painted green for the potatoes. Then 
 comes the postman; then the ashman, and so on. 
 Twice a week come the licensed organ-grinders ; and 
 collectors for various philanthropical societies; and 
 then vendors of oranges, fish, mats, baskets, so the 
 bell is ringing all day long! 
 
 Early in the morning, the servants, armed with 
 pails and kettles, go out to buy water and fire from 
 the vendor at the corner who sells a cent's worth of 
 boiling water to make the tea, and a piece of lighted 
 peat for the same price. Here we may also mention 
 the strange employment of a waker, who, for a few 
 cents will knock, or ring, at the house to awaken 
 heavy sleepers who have to get to business or to work. 
 Men rarely return home for their mid-day meal ; but 
 
 113
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 from four to six the streets are thronged with crowds 
 hurrying to their houses. The cafes also begin to 
 fill at this time, and everything assumes an air of 
 gaiety and brightness. 
 
 The passion of the Dutch for cleaning has passed 
 into a proverb. Every morning the house is liter- 
 ally taken to pieces and everything swept, cleaned 
 and brushed; carpets and rugs are beaten in the 
 streets and every article is dusted, banged, washed 
 and shaken. This is not enough, however, for every 
 spring there is a general epidemic of house-cleaning 
 on a bigger scale. 
 
 The houses are, generally speaking, occupied by 
 two families, and are divided into two apartments. 
 The lower one, called the benedenhuis, consists of the 
 lower floors ; and the second, called the bovenhuis, of 
 the first and second floors and the attic. Each of 
 these apartments has its own entrance ; and often the 
 house is surrounded by a garden to which every year 
 new turf and gravel are brought to replace what the 
 waters have carried away. Many apartments have 
 the parlor in the front and a dining-room in the back 
 and between them a windowless room which is used 
 as a sitting-room, particularly in the cold winter 
 evenings. 
 
 You have probably noticed in the picture galleries 
 how fond the Dutch masters are of painting the 
 magic beauty of snow and ice and the delights of 
 skating, sledding and sleighing; and the scenes that 
 Aart van der Neer ; Isaac van Ostade and others have 
 perpetuated on canvas are enacted every winter in
 
 The Hague 
 
 Holland. On all the canals, ponds and dykes reap- 
 pear the same sledges drawn by horses; the same 
 sledges pushed by skaters ; the same skaters for plea- 
 sure and skaters to market, or to work; the same 
 booths on the ice for refreshment; and the same 
 handsome sleighs drawn by horses decorated with 
 plumes and merry bells. 
 
 As early as 1514, a traveller marvelled at these 
 men, women and children flying about on their skates 
 as if they had wings. " Things have not changed 
 to-day," a Dutch writer tells us. " There is joy on 
 every face when the first snow falls, but how much 
 more delight when the canals are frozen ! And when 
 the cold continues every one is filled with enthu- 
 siasm, indeed with delirium. Everybody appears 
 with skates hanging from his neck, or arm. The 
 tramways that go to the Ice Clubs are crowded. The 
 schools give holiday. Concerts and other evening 
 entertainments are arranged on the ice. On all the 
 canals in the towns and in the country, you see old 
 and young alike on skates. Physicians even carry 
 their skates with them in their carriages to have a 
 little turn between two visits. Skating-parties, too, go 
 long distances. People even go from The Hague and 
 Rotterdam as far as Gouda, to buy the celebrated pipe 
 to be offered to the bride on her marriage day ; and 
 it is a crowning triumph to bring it back without 
 breaking the long stem. This pipe is the symbol of 
 the dignity of marriage, showing that the husband is 
 lord of his house." 
 
 The skaters of The Hague are famous for their 
 115
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 grace ; and in no city are there more brilliant winter 
 scenes. A modern writer says : 
 
 " The large pond in the centre of The Hague near 
 the Binnenhof is carried by storm by a multitude of 
 people elbowing and pushing each other, mingling 
 in one confused seething mass, like a crowd seized 
 by a fit of dizziness. The cream of the aristocracy 
 skate upon a pond in the Bosch, and there, officers, 
 ladies, members of parliament, students, old men and 
 boys may be distinguished, flitting here and there in 
 the falling snow, a crowd of spectators flocking 
 around them, the loud music of the military bands 
 lending additional animation to the merry scene, and 
 the great disc of the Netherlands sun shining 
 through the giant beeches and sending them its last 
 dazzling farewell ere it sinks below the horizon." 
 
 Near the markets are the Town Hall, and the 
 Church of St. James, better known as the Groote 
 Kerk. 
 
 The Town Hall is one of the most interesting ed- 
 ifices of its kind in Holland. It was finished in 
 1565, enlarged by a north wing in 1734; and again 
 restored and extended in 1882-83. It is in a splen- 
 did state of preservation, and a good specimen of 
 Dutch architecture. The statues on the main fagade 
 are " Justice " and " Prudence." 
 
 The Groote Kerk is a Gothic building of the fif- 
 teenth and sixteenth centuries with a six-sided 
 tower surmounted by a modern open work iron spire. 
 The interior is vaulted. In the choir there is a 
 carved wooden pulpit of 1550, and carved frames of 
 
 116
 
 The Hague 
 
 the coats-of-arms of some Knights of the Golden 
 Fleece. The Golden Fleece, one of the most cele- 
 brated Orders of Knighthood, was founded in 1429 
 by Philip III., Duke of Burgundy and the Nether- 
 lands, at Bruges, on the occasion of his marriage to 
 Isabella, daughter of the King of Portugal. Wool- 
 weaving was the chief source of income in the Low 
 Countries in those days ; and it was probably for this 
 reason rather than because of the Grecian myth that 
 the fleece was chosen for an emblem. 
 
 There are some fine old monuments here, one of 
 alabaster, dating from 1486 ; and there are some 
 stained-glass windows dating from 1547. In this 
 church Queen Wilhelmina was married to Duke 
 Henry of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, on Feb. 7, 1901. 
 
 From the Spui-Straat, the Gedempte Spui leads 
 south to the Nieuwe Kerk, built in the Seventeenth 
 Century and containing the tombs of Cornelis and 
 John de Witt. The Dutch philosopher, Spinoza, also 
 lies here. The house where the latter lived from 
 1671 till his death in 1677, is in Paveljoensgracht, 
 No. 32. Whether you care about Spinoza, or not, 
 it is a good type of a Dutch house of the seventeenth 
 century. 
 
 When Prince Frederick Henry of Orange, Prince 
 Maurice's brother, died in 1647, his widow, Princess 
 Amalia of Solms, erected as a memorial to him the 
 royal villa with the pretty name of House in the 
 Wood. This is situated about a mile and a half 
 from The Hague, at the end of the park called the 
 Bosch. 
 
 117
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 The Princess employed the best architects of the 
 day, Pieter Post and Van Campen, to build the 
 house and the most celebrated painters to adorn it. 
 In the Orange Room, an octagonal room in the centre 
 and lighted by the cupola, are paintings by Dutch 
 and Flemish artists depicting scenes from the life of 
 Prince Frederick Henry. There is also a por- 
 trait of the Princess Amalia and a picture of 
 the same Princess with her four daughters by 
 Hornthorst. The other pictures deal with mytho- 
 logical subjects; and there is also a series depicting 
 Count John Maurice of Nassau's Conquest of Bra- 
 ziL It was in the Orange Room that the members 
 of the Peace Conference met in 1899. 
 
 Prince William IV. added the wings in 1748. The 
 Chinese Room and the Japanese Room are full of 
 Oriental furniture, hangings and embroideries, and 
 cabinets of curios; and the Dining Room, which is 
 painted in grisaille in imitation of bas-reliefs, con- 
 tains a superb collection of Oriental and Dutch por- 
 celain and earthenware. 
 
 Shady winding alleys and a lovely lake are the feat- 
 ures of the Bosch, where the crowds gather on pleas- 
 ant days to listen to the military band that plays 
 here twice a week; and in the winter to skate on the 
 lake. 
 
 A tramway starting from the Plein and running 
 along the Vyverberg, Kneuterdyk, Park-Straat, 
 Plein, 1813, Java-Straat and the Old Scheveningen 
 Road will take us to Scheveningen in half an hour. 
 
 Scheveningen and The Hague are so close together 
 118
 
 The Hague 
 
 that it is hard to tell where the one ends and the 
 other begins. 
 
 The Old Road, which was laid out in 1666, is 
 beautifully shaded with trees,, and on the right be- 
 tween the road and the Canal lies the Scheveningen- 
 sclie Bosch, a fine old park. The road is lined on 
 both sides with houses and villas, each standing in 
 a pretty garden bright with flowers and green with 
 shrubs. Each house is individual in appearance, but 
 unmistakably Dutch; and all have the air of cosy 
 comfort, with their curtained windows, awnings and 
 scalloped half shades. 
 
 Unless it is a Sunday or holiday, in which case the 
 road is thronged, we see but few persons coming 
 towards or from The Hague. Occasionally some 
 Scheveningen peasants with their large headdresses, 
 short skirts and bare purple arms, or a woman wear- 
 ing one of those strange metal helmets, trudge along 
 the way. Sometimes, too, a bicyclist spins by. As 
 we pass the houses we catch glimpses of the inmates 
 at their doors or windows, drinking tea, knitting and 
 smoking; for the Dutch love to see what is passing 
 and have no dislike of being seen. 
 
 A Roman Catholic church marks the beginning of 
 Scheveningen, three-quarters of a mile from the 
 beach. 
 
 There are, in fact, two Scheveningens : one, the 
 most fashionable watering-place on the Dutch coast; 
 and the other, a little fishing-village. 
 
 Fashionable Scheveningen is the one we have come 
 to see. Our tram brings us to the Curhaus, a build- 
 
 119
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ing, three hundred feet long, with large verandahs. 
 Fashionable Scheveningen, consisting of hotels, res- 
 taurants, cafes, and villas to accommodate the 30,000 
 visitors who come here every summer, is built on the 
 top of the Dunes. A terrace paved with brick runs 
 for a distance of a mile ; and below this fine prom- 
 enade is a road called the Boulevard, on which are 
 also situated cafes, restaurants and attractive shops. 
 About the middle of this promenade a long pier ex- 
 tends far out into the sea and is terminated by a 
 pavilion, containing a restaurant and variety theatre. 
 Far to the south on the beach stands a lighthouse, 
 from which a fine view is obtained. Numerous hotels 
 and villas lie to the north and south of the Terrace. 
 
 The visitors are chiefly Dutch and German; but 
 there are also a good many English, American, Rus- 
 sian and Danish tourists. A list of the newcomers 
 is given in the daily paper, the Courier de Scheven- 
 ingue, published in the French language, which 
 everybody is supposed to speak. 
 
 Scheveningen is very gay during the months of 
 July and August: the buildings are brilliantly il- 
 luminated; and there are fireworks, balls, theatrical 
 entertainments to suit all tastes, and innumerable 
 concerts. 
 
 The large glass domed Cursaal can accommodate 
 2,900 persons. Here various entertainments are 
 given and in the concert-halls the best music can be 
 heard. Symphony concerts take place once a week; 
 for some orchestra of reputation is always at Schev- 
 eningen. 
 
 120
 
 The Hague 
 
 Tea-rooms and cafes are frequented in the after- 
 noons and the crowds of people who promenade the 
 Boulevard and Terrace or lounge upon the beach are 
 very interesting for foreigners like ourselves to 
 watch. We feel very much in Europe when we stroll 
 about in Scheveningen. 
 
 And what a strange beach! The sands are very- 
 wide and stretch north and south without a break or 
 a turn, straight as an arrow. Far away from us the 
 blue waves roll in, curl and break into snowy foam. 
 A number of fishing-boats, with their stout masts and 
 peculiar square sails, are ranged side by side on the 
 sand, reminding us that Scheveningen is a fishing- 
 village as well as a seaside resort. 
 
 Look at those rows and rows of tents pavilions 
 they call them here, and those hundreds and hun- 
 dreds of wicker chairs with high rounded backs, that 
 dot the entire beach like mushrooms windstoel is 
 their name. Both pavilions and windstoels can be 
 hired on the beach; and they are usually occupied 
 all day long. Look, too, at the long row of bathing- 
 machines : they are novel to American eyes, a little 
 wagon, something like a showman's, with a door and 
 steps at the back and a sloping roof to which every 
 now and then a horse is hitched and the wagon drawn 
 into the water, where the bathers alight. Bathing 
 begins at seven o'clock every morning and continues 
 until sunset. There is a gentlemen's bathing-place, a 
 ladies' bathing-place and a place where they bathe 
 together. Tickets are bought on the beach and each 
 number is called out when there is a vacancy in the 
 
 121
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 bathing-machine that carries the party do\vn the 
 sands to the edge of the breakers. 
 
 On either side of Scheveningen stretch the Dunes, 
 known as the East Dunes and the West Dunes, which 
 to some persons are a source of never-failing delight, 
 while others find them unspeakably dreary. 
 
 The Dunes are hills of sand that have been formed 
 by the fine grains of sand that are continually being 
 blown in by the wind and form hills and hollows. 
 On the sea side of the Dunes, special grass called 
 helm is planted by the State to help bind the soil and 
 prevent the shifting of the sands ; and when the sand 
 begins to be a compact mass among the helm, tiny 
 moss and plants soon cover the Dunes with a pe- 
 culiar vegetation. Beautiful as this carpet is when 
 seen from a distance, it is more beautiful when ex- 
 amined closely. One who knows these flowers well 
 tells us that " The first to appear are tiny spots and 
 spores of moss, among and around which is fine grass, 
 hardly higher than the pile of plush velvet. Among) 
 this are wild pansies and blue violets, so tiny that 
 an elf of the court of Queen Mab might wear them 
 in his buttonhole. A little scarlet-leaved creeper, 
 with white blossoms and forget-me-not flowers of the 
 brightest blue, but no larger than a pin's head, also 
 grow thickly in the grass. Bushes dwindle to creep- 
 ing-plants. A dwarf-willow runs over the sand, and 
 blossoms with masses of green flowers, on which the 
 bees work busily walking from flower to flower on 
 the sand. The birch becomes subterranean, descend- 
 ing onto and below the surface like a strawberry 
 
 122
 
 The Hague 
 
 runner and throwing out leaves from the ground." 
 The Dunes have inspired many masterpieces of DutcK 
 painting. 
 
 Farther on, the sandhills grow larger, and the 
 vegetation increases in size until copses of fir and 
 pine appear. Rabbits, hares, partridges and other 
 game-hirds live here in great numbers; and in the 
 autumn there is fine shooting in these regions, es- 
 pecially in those that belong to Queen Wilhelmina. 
 
 123
 
 THE CITY OF AMSTERDAM 
 THE VENICE OF THE NORTH 
 
 THE train that takes the traveller from The 
 Hague to Amsterdam passes through a very 
 characteristic and picturesque country. It runs al- 
 most parallel with, and not far from, the coast, pass- 
 ing through Leyden and Haarlem and numerous lit- 
 tle villages, and presents a constant succession of 
 new and charming pictures to the fascinated eye. 
 
 All this country is marvellously fertile. It is a 
 sort of northern garden of Eden where fruit, flowers 
 and vegetables grow in amazing abundance. Before 
 our eyes pass fields of wheat, flax and other grains, 
 alternating with kitchen-gardens, where squares d& 
 voted to red and green cabbages alternate with 
 squares upon squares planted with peas and beans. 
 Orchards of fruit-trees then come into view; then 
 acres upon acres of strawberries, tulips, hyacinths 
 and roses; then miles of greenhouses, whose bright 
 panes scintillating in the sunlight conceal splendid 
 orchids and other exotic flowers from Bavaria and 
 Guiana. The vast, spongy meadows, charming in 
 their monotony of tender green, where ditches take 
 the place of hedge-rows and shine like bands of sil- 
 ver in the light, are thickly sprinkled with pretty 
 
 124
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 white farm-houses, whose red roofs peep cheerfully 
 beneath clumps of willows. Here, too, innumerable 
 black and white cows bite the crisp blades of grass, 
 or rest upon the thick turf, and here, too, windmills 
 constantly come into the picture. 
 
 Everything here shows the work of man's hand; 
 for we are and have been for a long time running 
 along the great Haarlemmer Polder, which was 
 formed by drawing all the water off the Haarlemmer 
 Meer, a sort of inland sea about seventy-two square 
 miles which occupied nearly all the space between 
 Amsterdam, Haarlem and Leyden. It is now, as we 
 have seen, a richly cultivated plain, dotted with vil- 
 lages and farms and containing a population of about 
 16,000. 
 
 In all countries man is kept busy tilling the soil ; 
 but in Holland the very soil has to be created first. 
 Holland is a network of rivers and lakes ; and, as it 
 lies very low without protecting rocks, the furious 
 sea beats and lashes and gnaws into the sandy shores 
 as if determined to join the great rivers and swallow 
 up the entire country. If it were not for the won- 
 derful skill the Dutch engineers possess, there would 
 soon be no Holland whatever. As it is, there is a 
 constant battle between the people and the sea. 
 Dykes were constructed in Holland even before the 
 days of the Romans, so that the great knowledge the 
 Dutch have of hydraulics is a development of cen- 
 turies. Sometimes, however, the sea has triumphed* 
 as for example in 1421, when, during a frightful 
 storm the dykes were burst at Biesbosch in South. 
 
 125
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Holland and seventy-two villages, with a hundred 
 thousand persons, were engulfed. At this time, the 
 Hollandisch Diep, an arm of the sea, was formed. 
 Again in 1826, forty villages in North Holland were 
 swept away and hundreds of persons perished, be- 
 sides cattle and sheep. 
 
 It was in the eighth century that the Dutch be- 
 gan seriously to dyke their country ; but the troubles 
 of the Middle Ages gave them too much fighting to 
 do on land for them to battle with the ocean. In 
 the fifteenth century all the dykes that had been 
 made were destroyed. During the sixteenth and sev- 
 enteenth century, the time of Holland's great pros- 
 perity, her people began to reconquer their land 
 from the sea. Everywhere dykes were made parallel 
 with the rivers; polders were redeemed from the 
 water ; and, on every side, windmills, that now form 
 such a characteristic feature of the landscape, arose 
 to drain the land. In 1480, the first polder was 
 definitely conquered from the ocean in the island of 
 Texel; in 1855 a lake near Alkmaar was pumped 
 dry; but the greatest triumph of all was the drain- 
 ing of the Haarlem Meer, in 1842-1853. 
 
 The embankments vary in different places: some- 
 times they are merely earthworks; sometimes they 
 are strengthened with bricks or piles or both; and 
 sometimes they are great works of stone or granite; 
 while the sluice-gates, formerly of wood, are now 
 colossal structures of stone which open and shut ac- 
 cording to the current of the sea and defy the an- 
 griest waves. 
 
 126
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 " All the defensive works against the sea and rivers 
 would not save Holland, if some way had not been 
 discovered to get rid of the overflowing rivers and 
 lakes and pools and peat-beds that had become lakes. 
 Then it was that the Dutch began to drain the 
 ' polders/ the name they gave to the old marshes. 
 An hydraulic wind-mill was put up in Alkmaar in 
 1408, and was quickly imitated ; and by the end of 
 the fifteenth century the use of wind-mills to drain 
 the Dutch polders had become universal. At this 
 period they began to construct dykes through the 
 lowlands, trenches to guide the water and sluice- 
 gates to regulate its level. 
 
 " Through this discovery, the internal state of the 
 country was changed and agriculture could spring 
 up. At the present day mills of all shapes and di- 
 mensions stand in the middle of rich plains, whose 
 superfluous waters they draw off: their busy wings 
 in the distance blended together in a tranquil sky, 
 and give the landscape a singular character. Some 
 of these mills are true edifices, which seek the wind 
 at a considerable height; others, smaller and built 
 of wood or brick, are very prettily finished off. This 
 rustic coquetry these huge sails which flutter in 
 the air like the wings of gigantic and fabulous birds; , 
 this tick-tick blended with the sound of the waters, 
 spread over the calm nature of Holland an in- 
 definable charm and movement. Elsewhere, mills, 
 those monuments of a pastoral life, are only employed 
 in one way ; but here, on the contrary, they are hy- 
 draulic machines, saw and flour-grinding mills. You 
 
 12Y
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Bee some polders served by a single small mill, while 
 several large mills are employed in draining others. 
 Formerly, efforts were limited to draining ground of 
 no great depth ; but since science has progressed, the 
 wind is called upon to exhaust even deep marshes. 
 When you now see this land, fabricated and kept up 
 by the hand of man, covered in summer with rich 
 pasturage, fruit and vegetables, and frequently abun- 
 dant crops, you cannot sufficiently admire the con- 
 dition of the art which has converted land buried be- 
 neath the waters into a garden." * 
 
 Amsterdam, which lies on an arm of the Zuyder 
 Zee called the Y (pronounced eye), is built in the 
 form of a semicircle ; or, perhaps, we had better say 
 it has grown in a series of semicircular canals 
 called grachts facing the Y. The chief of these are 
 Heerengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht. 
 From the last-named and wide canal, short streets 
 and narrow canals run at right angles towards the 
 Singelgracht, the outer girdle of the town which was 
 in former days the moat around the ramparts and 
 which now forms a natural boundary between old 
 Amsterdam and the new quarter of the town. 
 
 The Dutch engineers have altered the Harbor to 
 suit the needs of the present day since the North Sea 
 Canal that gave Amsterdam direct communication 
 with the ocean was made. -They have made large 
 docks and quays, and built artificial islands in the 
 Y. All this water front presents an attractive ap- 
 pearance; here are docked the American liners and 
 * Alphonse Esquiros. 
 
 128
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 East India ships; here the steamers arrive and de- 
 part for various Dutch ports and to Bristol, Hull, 
 Liverpool, London, Batavia, New York and the West 
 Indies; and here several times a day the small ex- 
 cursion boats arrive and depart for Alkmaar, Zaan- 
 dam and other places on the Zaan, to Ymuiden on 
 the North Sea; and to Maarken and other points 
 in the Zuider Zee. Last, but by no means least in 
 interest, many canal boats load and unload at this 
 spot. 
 
 Amsterdam is entirely indebted to man for her 
 existence. There is not an inch of her ground that 
 is not made. The ninety islands on which the city 
 is built are bound together and artificially consoli- 
 dated by bundles of stout, long piles, and every build- 
 ing rests on a solid foundation of piles. For the 
 Royal Palace on the Darn, no less than 13,659 piles 
 were required. 
 
 The fact that Amsterdam is built on islands and 
 canals has given the city the sobriquet of the " Venice 
 of the North." Altogether, there are more than fifty 
 canals, which are bordered with trees and crossed by 
 bridges. On the east and west of the city, marshy 
 lands have been converted into parks and polders; 
 while the new quarter, containing the JRyks and 
 Stedelylc Museums and many fine residential streets, 
 has been for many years pushing itself southwards 
 far beyond the Singelgracht 
 
 Railways run along the dykes on the east and north 
 to serve the docks and basins that line the Y; and 
 an enormous dyke of granite with powerful sluices 
 
 129
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and immense gates, bars the entrance of the Y at 
 Schellingwoude, in order to protect the great North 
 Sea Canal from the Zuider Zee. The middle of this 
 dyke is broken with openings for the passage of ves- 
 sels entering or departing from Amsterdam; and 
 here are sluices for regulating the amount of water 
 in the canal. The North Sea Canal, which has re- 
 stored so much of Amsterdam's old prosperity, be- 
 gins at Schellingwoude and cuts through the coun- 
 try in a straight line to the North Sea, a distance 
 of about fifteen miles. At this end, the Canal is 
 protected by two enormous breakwaters, three-quar- 
 ters of a mile long, and two enormous locks, near one 
 of which is the comparatively new town of Ymuiden, 
 to which steamboats run several times a day from 
 Amsterdam through the canal. This canal was 
 formed by draining the shallow basin of the Y into 
 this long ditch; but enough water is left at Amster- 
 dam to form three large basins, or ports, that are 
 able to accommodate a thousand large ships. The 
 canal cost forty million florins. 
 
 On a small promontory directly opposite the Cen- 
 tral Eailway Station where the old Tolhuis, or cus- 
 tom-house, is situated, are the gigantic gates, called 
 the Willeiiis-Sluis, that bar the entrance to the North 
 Holland Canal, which, constructed in 1819-1825, 
 extends all the way from Amsterdam to Helder, a 
 distance of fifty miles. 
 
 Another large canal the Merwede Canal con- 
 nects Amsterdam with Utrecht. 
 
 You will therefore see that by opening the sluice- 
 130
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 gates the surrounding country could be completely 
 flooded at need ; and that just as Antwerp guards all 
 Belguim, Amsterdam still remains the central fort- 
 ress, the redoubt of Holland. 
 
 The early history of Amsterdam is enveloped in 
 darkness. All we know about its origin is that in 
 1200, during the reign of Thierry VII. , Count of 
 Holland, a dyke or dam was made at the union of 
 the river Amstel and an arm of the Zuider Zee. 
 Tradition says that some fishermen and a dog were 
 thrown on the shore here and finding such abundant 
 rewards for their nets, built a little settlement and 
 placed in its midst a chapel consecrated to St. Olaf, 
 patron saint of Norway. Be this as it may, at any 
 rate the Frisians, who had flourishing maritime 
 towns in the eighth and ninth centuries, for some 
 reason emigrated in crowds to the southern coasts 
 of Holland where the sea was more open and the 
 country more protected. 
 
 At the beginning of the twelfth century, Amster- 
 dam was nothing more than a fishing-village, in the 
 middle of which the first known lord, Gysbrecht or 
 Gilbert, had a fortified castle, which he called Amstel 
 Vesten. His successor, Gysbrecht, added some tow- 
 ers and bridges, and made a town of the settle- 
 ment. The oldest document in which the name Am- 
 sterdam appears is a charter of 1275 given by Count 
 Floris V. granting trading rights. In 1296, owing 
 to the unfortunate murder of the Count of Holland, 
 the little town was confiscated by William III. and 
 joined to his own territory in order to punish Gya- 
 
 131
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 brecht Van Amstel for his complicity in the murder 
 of Count Floris. William IV. gave it a municipal 
 constitution in 1340, and permitted the inhabitants 
 to enlarge their town. In 1380, they began to sur- 
 round it with a wooden palisade, which in the course 
 of two years was replaced by a brick wall. The 
 boundaries were enlarged in 1400, 1462, 1593, 1612, 
 and 1658, in which last named year it was twenty 
 times larger than it was in 1300. 
 
 More than half destroyed by a fire in the middle 
 of the fifteenth century, she recovered from this 
 disaster, surrounded herself with ramparts and tow- 
 ers and constantly increased in importance. She had 
 joined the Hanseatic League (see page 164) as early 
 as 1369 and had become the most influential city in 
 the Netherlands, possessing a great portion of the 
 trade of the Baltic. Her seal consisted of a ship, 
 which held two men and a dog, in allusion to the 
 story of her foundation and symbolic of valor and 
 vigilance. 
 
 In 1512, the inhabitants of Guelderland surprised 
 Amsterdam. They numbered about two thousand, 
 and after burning the suburbs and the twenty-two 
 ships in the harbor, withdrew laden with booty. 
 
 In 1525, the Anabaptists, led by the famous John 
 of Leyden, tried to capture Amsterdam. Six hun- 
 dred of them entered the town at night and attacked 
 the Town-hall. The citizens tried to barricade the 
 streets around the Dam with sacks of flour and bags 
 of hops, but when dawn showed them that their ene- 
 mies were fewer than they had feared, they forced 
 
 132
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 the Anabaptists into the Town-hall and massacred 
 them. 
 
 Ten years later, these fanatics returned, after hav- 
 ing ravaged Flanders, Holland and Friesland, and 
 entered the city with the most frightful cries, men- 
 acing the Koman Catholics with the vengeance of 
 Heaven if they did not abjure their faith; but the 
 inhabitants pursued them vigorously and those that 
 were taken perished by the sword, fire, water and 
 rope. 
 
 Under the Spanish rule and during the period 
 that Holland was struggling for her independence, 
 Amsterdam was the one town of this country that 
 from 1572 to 1578 sided with Spain and opposed the 
 Reformation. All the attempts of the Prince of 
 Orange to win Amsterdam were futile ; and, notwith- 
 standing the Peace of Ghent in 1576, the civil au- 
 thorities repulsed Protestantism with the greatest 
 vigor. On Jan. 15, 1576, however, an arrangement 
 was made called the Satisfaction of Amsterdam, in 
 which the nominal supremacy of the Roman Cath- 
 olic Church was recognized and also tolerance for 
 the reformed religion. 
 
 But notwithstanding the rapid progress of Prot- 
 estantism the magistrates, who were all Roman Cath- 
 olics, resisted the movement; and a municipal revo- 
 lution had to take place before they yielded. On 
 May 28, 1578, they returned to the town with a 
 number of priests and senators ; and, since that date, 
 Amsterdam, having been completely won over to the 
 Protestant cause, took part in the general politics of 
 
 133
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Holland. About this time also the population began 
 to increase; and from 1585 to 1595 the territory 
 doubled. However, in 1602, the plague carried off 
 60,000 inhabitants in a few months. 
 
 Antwerp having fallen under Spanish rule was for- 
 saken by many of her best citizens, many of whom, 
 including numbers of merchants, left it to establish 
 themselves in Amsterdam which, by 1622, numbered 
 about 100,000 inhabitants. But above all else what 
 contributed to Amsterdam's commercial prosperity 
 was the closing of the Scheldt, stipulated for in the 
 Treaty of Minister in 1648, which was Antwerp's 
 ruin, and her rival's great opportunity. 
 
 At this period Amsterdam also benefited by the 
 influx of a great number of Portuguese Jews, who 
 brought with them the art of diamond-cutting and 
 polishing, which became one of the city's great 
 sources of wealth. In fact, Amsterdam became a 
 Paradise of Jews. At a later period, the city also 
 benefited by the advent of the Huguenot refugees 
 from France. 
 
 Jealous rivals on several occasions attempted to 
 take Amsterdam, among them the Earl of Leicester, 
 who planned a surprise which was anticipated. 
 Amsterdam's worst troubles occurred, however, in 
 the second half of the seventeenth century, a period 
 of wars. William II., Prince of Orange, who re- 
 garded this city as an enemy to his house, attempted 
 an attack, and his troops marched rapidly and 
 secretly to Amsterdam. However, the city was pre- 
 pared : the dykes were opened and the Count of 
 
 134
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 sau, who led the expedition, was forced to retire. 
 William II., however, took the management of 
 affairs away from the magistrates who were at 
 enmity with him. Many companies of soldiers, con- 
 sisting of from twenty to fifty-four men, were 
 formed. 
 
 In 1672, Amsterdam checked the victorious ad- 
 vance of Louis XIV.'s army by opening the dykes 
 and flooding the country ; and at the negotiations for 
 peace Amsterdam protested against the hard terms 
 imposed by Louis XIV. and consented to recognize 
 William III. as Stadhouder. A few years later, 
 Amsterdam turned to great advantage Louis XIV. 'a 
 mistake in persecuting his Protestant subjects; and 
 issued an edict in 1681 guaranteeing to all who 
 wished to emigrate the right of citizenship and spe- 
 cial facilities for the making and disposing of their 
 wares. The city also built a thousand houses for 
 them to dwell in and after the [Revocation of the 
 Edict of Nantes (1685) artisans and merchants 
 flocked to Amsterdam in great numbers. 
 
 Amsterdam's patriotic resolution to defy Louis 
 XIV. was detrimental to her commercial interests, 
 and involved her in the war until 1712. 
 
 Amsterdam's prosperity declined in the eight- 
 eenth century especially during the war with Eng- 
 land in 1780-1784. In 1787, the Prussian army 
 that re-established William V. as Stadhouder entered 
 Amsterdam without any difficulty and the city capit- 
 ulated. In 1795, the French Republicans led by 
 Dutch Exiles took possession of the country and 
 
 135
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 founded the Batavian Republic with Schimmel- 
 penninck as president with the old title of Grand 
 Pensionary. The French army entered on Jan. 19, 
 of that year led hy Pichegru ; and, owing to the fact 
 that the dykes were frozen, there was no way of 
 opposing his forces. A liberty pole was set up in 
 front of St. Antonieswaag in the Nieuwe Markt, and 
 crowds flocked to the Dam and lined the windows 
 of the public buildings and private houses to see the 
 French army enter the city. The Batavian Republic 
 did not, however, last very long, for Louis Napoleon 
 Tfras made King of Holland in 1806. The latter im- 
 mediately removed the seat of government to Am- 
 sterdam, which therefore became the capital of the 
 :new kingdom. The populace, however, refused to 
 allow him to govern absolutely and attacked one of 
 the servants of the French establishment, whereupon 
 Napoleon ordered Marshal Oudinot to take posses- 
 sion of the city. The French entered on July 3, 
 1810, and on July 19, Holland being united to 
 France, Amsterdam was made the third city of the 
 Empire, ranking next to Rome and Paris. On July, 
 14, 1810, Lebrun held a sort of court there as gov- 
 ernor. Napoleon passed through Amsterdam in Oc- 
 tober, 1811; but was coldly welcomed by his brother 
 subjects. 
 
 " The picture of the emperor crouching at the bot- 
 tom of his carriage, his great head dropped between 
 his shoulders, with lowering brow, pallid face and 
 watchful eyes passing rapidly through a sullen and 
 silent crowd, is that of the foreign tyrant, who, in 
 
 136
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 spite of all his armies and all his fame, is made to 
 feel the hatred of a people he has tied like a captive 
 horde to his conquering car. That moment marked 
 the lowest point in the fall of Amsterdam. The veri- 
 est dolt on the Dam must have felt that Amsterdam 
 was in chains. 
 
 " And now the iron entered her soul ; regiments 
 from all the armies in Europe marched through her 
 streets, and were quartered on her people, who for 
 some years lived in an atmosphere of constant fear 
 and anxiety. Now it was the French who were the 
 masters, now the Orange party, now the Allies. If 
 the French, then there were spies during the day and 
 sudden arrests in the dead of the night; if the na- 
 tional party, no one dared appear without an Orange 
 rosette j if the Allies, then possibly a red-eyed Cos- 
 sack sat in the house and called loudly for snaps. 
 Every morning there was the clatter of cavalry exer- 
 cising their horses up and down the streets, or the 
 noise of the infantry going through the drill. Every 
 evening the tambour was beaten in all the quarters 
 of the town. And the worst was that all these sol- 
 diers were foreign, and represented the fact that the 
 liberties of Amsterdam were no longer their own, but 
 depended upon whosoever came forth victorious in 
 the struggle. 
 
 " Every great change in Europe vibrated through 
 the homes of Amsterdam. When the Empire began 
 to fall the French inhabitants left the city in droves, 
 the houses of those who sympathized with them were 
 sacked and the prisons forced open. Several pitiable 
 
 137
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 objects were brought forth from the prisons under 
 the Amstel-sluis. 
 
 " The 18th of June, 1815, was a day of great ex- 
 citement in Amsterdam. The news of the various 
 changes at Waterloo were signalled across the Neth- 
 erlands from steeple to steeple. The signal in Am- 
 sterdam was constantly changing according to the 
 fortunes of the day, and when at last the Dutch flag 
 remained flying, the people wrung each other's hands, 
 crying with delight ' Oranje boven! Oranje boven! ' 
 
 " The historical family, the only symbol Holland 
 possesses of national unity, returned; and Amster- 
 dam entered on its third and present phase, that of 
 being simply the largest city in the Kingdom of Hol- 
 land." * 
 
 Lebrun retired to Utrecht; and "William I., King of 
 Holland and Prince of Orange, entered Amsterdam. 
 
 Its trade was much affected by the Continental 
 blockade ; but after peace was restored and the House 
 of Orange enjoyed its own again, its prosperity was 
 assured. In 1814, the Bank of the Netherlands, 
 modelled on the Bank of England, was established. 
 
 Since the opening of the North Sea Canal Amster- 
 dam has recovered her old commercial supremacy. 
 
 The formation of the East India Company and 
 the West India Company made Amsterdam the 
 greatest mercantile city in Europe in the seventeenth 
 century, and nothing seemed to affect her prosperity. 
 
 "In 1602 the Dutch East India Company was 
 formed. Amboyna and the Moluccas were wrested 
 
 * Richard Heath. 
 138
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 from the Spaniards, and in a short time the Dutch 
 had factories and fortifications from the Tigris in 
 the Persian Gulf along the coasts and islands of 
 India as far as Japan. Alliances were formed with 
 several Indian princes on the coast of Ceylon, and 
 they were themselves masters in various districts of 
 Malabar and Coromandel, and of great part of the 
 island of Java. The West India Company was 
 established in 1621. In fifteen years the Dutch had 
 conquered the greater part of Brazil and had fitted 
 out eight hundred trading and war ships at the ex- 
 pense of ninety millions of florins, which immense 
 outlay they had recouped by the capture of five hun- 
 dred and forty-five Spanish and Portuguese ships. 
 
 " Speculative trade, it has been said, almost seems 
 to have been born at Amsterdam. Let the scarcity 
 of grain be what it might in any of the four quarters 
 of the globe, men could always find plenty in Amster- 
 dam; whatever their wants they could always sup- 
 ply them in Amsterdam. Its streets were like a 
 perpetual fair. 
 
 " An Italian describes the city in 1618 as the very 
 image of Venice in its prime. It spread out fan- 
 shaped, its base line on the Y being a long series of 
 quays and docks, backed by tall warehouses of which 
 little could be seen but an occasional gable roof, so 
 hidden were they by groves of masts (which towards 
 the centre thickened into a forest) , by large sails and 
 a complete jungle of huge cranes and drawbridges. 
 High above the city rose numerous quaint steeples 
 and yet more ancient towers, and Amsterdam's Ital- 
 
 139
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ian prototype could never have presented a more 
 bewitching picture than when on one of those mar- 
 vellous nights, not infrequent in Holland, the moon 
 lit up the scene with a light, whiter, purer than that 
 of electricity, and of a living beauty the very reverse 
 of electricity's ghastly glare. The black hulls, masts, 
 rigging and cordage stood out vividly as in a photo- 
 graph; the beacons cast their ruddy glare into the 
 waters, and at midnight the carillon floated over the 
 city, followed by the striking of innumerable clocks. 
 
 " Morning broke, and with the dawn began another 
 day's whirl and fret of business. Men, women and 
 children of all lands, nations and tongues were in 
 full activity. The shipwrights' hammers, the creak- 
 ing of the cranes, the seamen's oaths, the squabbles of 
 the market-place, the gabbling in the schools, the 
 clatter of the sleighs, the chaffering, badgering, bully- 
 ing, the slave-driving going on without a moment's 
 cessation upon all the quays, in every warehouse and 
 from every street, proclaimed Amsterdam the mart 
 of the world, the centre of its business. 
 
 " The head of the DamraJc, a short roadstead 
 formed by the mouth of the Amstel, was crossed by 
 a bridge which recalled the Kialto. Here a crowd 
 of men, the most varied in nationality and tradition, 
 were all one in their worship of the presiding genius 
 of the city. The bridge stood in front of its temple. 
 The Exchange was the true centre of the religion of 
 Amsterdam. Hard by were the representatives of the 
 two subsidiary forces in the life of the city politics 
 and Calvinistic Christianity. 
 
 140
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 " The Stadthuis, an enormous structure of which 
 the forest of piles necessary for its foundation had 
 cost 100,000 sterling, possessed an interior almost 
 encased in marble floors, walls, pillars and ceilings. 
 Versailles cost 800,000, the Escurial 1,000,000, 
 St. Paul's 1,500,000; but the burgher government 
 of Amsterdam spent 3,000,000 on the shrine of 
 their politics, making it the fit emblem of their pol- 
 icy hard, superficial and stupidly wasteful. In its 
 vaults were the treasures of their famous bank, to all 
 appearance an infinite hoard of wealth. 
 
 " The treasure-house of Europe, it was the reser- 
 voir into which fell the many golden streams which 
 came pouring in from every quarter of the globe. 
 
 " This wealth gave an enormous impetus to such 
 arts as the traditions and peculiar temperament of 
 the Hollanders most encouraged. Profoundly re- 
 ligious, the soul of the Netherlands people had from 
 very early times found expression in poetry and 
 painting. Amsterdam was the centre of literary life 
 before the war, its inhabitants cultivating their poetic 
 gifts in their famous Guild of the Eglantine. After 
 the fall of Antwerp, its Guilds of the Sweet-brier 
 and the Fig-Tree emigrated to the northern city." * 
 
 Being the headquarters of the large shipping com- 
 panies and the great mart for the colonial exports 
 from the Dutch colonies, it was only natural that 
 Amsterdam should become the great money-market 
 of the Netherlands. The famous Bank of Amster- 
 dam opened in 1609 the same year that Henry 
 * Richard Heath. 
 141
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Hudson, sent out by the West India Company from 
 Amsterdam, discovered the Island of Manhattan 
 was not closed until 1796. Her Exchange was fa- 
 mous throughout Europe. 
 
 In the first years of the Seventeenth Century the 
 merchants of Amsterdam met every day in good 
 weather on the large bridge, and in rain or snow in 
 the Oude Kerk, where they were called together by 
 the sound of the organ; but in 1613 they had their 
 new Exchange. This was a handsome building with 
 a court, arcades and galleries, half of it sheltered and 
 half of it open to the sun and air, and similar in ap- 
 pearance to the famous Exchange in Antwerp, that is 
 still standing. You can see it in the celebrated pict- 
 ure of the Dam by Berck-Heyde in the Kyks 
 Museum. 
 
 Towards the close of the century, a kind of Ex- 
 change was held in the Dam, in front of what is now 
 the Palace, from ten o'clock till noon. At twelve 
 o'clock, the real Bourse opened and remained so for 
 two hours. 
 
 In the " Venice of the North " the greater num- 
 ber of the streets are water streets running alongside 
 of the canals that are bordered by tall trees and 
 paved with very rough cobble stones. There are as 
 a rule no sidewalks and the houses are placed upon 
 the pavement that extends to the coping of the canals. 
 Carriages, wagons, pedestrians and stray dogs all 
 mingle in the street. The canals are crossed by 
 bridges, which are more or less ornate; and some- 
 times people ferry themselves across in little boats. 
 
 142
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 The houses are, as a rule, built of brown or black 
 bricks, very heavily seamed with white mortar and 
 heavily ornamented with white cornices and sills for 
 the windows. Heavy white cornices also adorn the 
 roofs, which generally terminate in a pointed gable, 
 or are " crow stepped." All lean slightly forward 
 and are supplied with a crane for hoisting goods to 
 the top windows. The canals average three feet in 
 depth.' Some of them are narrow, but others are 
 quite wide. The Heerengracht and Keizersgracht, 
 which are a hundred and fifty feet wide, are bor- 
 dered on either side with rows of luxuriant elms. 
 These two canals have always been the centres of 
 wealth and fashion and still flo~W with pride in front 
 of old mansions that hint of Amsterdam's glorious 
 days of the Seventeenth Century. 
 
 As you leave the more crowded streets and canals 
 of the old city, pretty villas with gardens sloping to 
 the water's edge become frequent. Those on the 
 Singelgracht are especially homelike and attractive. 
 Beyond the Singelgracht is the new quarter of the 
 town, where the streets bear the names of famous 
 painters, such as Paulus Potter, Hobbema, Jacob 
 Van Kampen, Quellin, Gerard Dow, Albert Cuyp, 
 and Jan Steen. Canals are less frequent and the 
 houses more modern in appearance and consist 
 largely of apartments. 
 
 It is hard to realize how much use people in Am- 
 sterdam make of the boat. It takes the place of the 
 cart or wagon. The gardener brings his fruits, flow- 
 ers and vegetables to market by boat; the dairyman 
 
 143
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 his cheeses, and the farmer his milk, in great oak 
 buckets with copper hoops and handles. On quarter 
 days, when people move, the furniture is carried 
 down the canals from the old to the new dwelling by 
 boats; and last, but not least, there are boats espe- 
 cially employed for passenger-service. These are 
 called trekschuyten and are about thirty feet long. 
 A sort of long wooden house runs nearly the whole 
 length of the flat keel, and is usually painted green. 
 The roof is flat and covered with a layer of pounded 
 shells. The windows, four or six on a side, have little 
 panes and are generally hung with red or white cur- 
 tains. Sometimes a pot of bright flowers stands on 
 the sill. The house is divided into two compart- 
 ments, or cabins, which are comfortably furnished. 
 The rest of the space is filled with bales, boxes and 
 barrels, and the poop is given up to the travellers and 
 helmsman. In front of the boat is the mast which is 
 lowered at every bridge and to which a rope is fast- 
 ened. The other end of the rope is tied to a horse 
 that walks along the canal pulling the boat. When 
 the irekschuyi arrives at a town, the rider dismounts 
 and unfastens the horse ; the boatman then, by means 
 of a long pole, pushes his boat through the crowded 
 mass of craft to the dock he requires. Some of these 
 boats are painted a bright blue and are ornamented 
 with stripes or bands of red and all have a very 
 domestic air, for the people are often seen at the win- 
 dows and on the roof, smoking, drinking tea, washing 
 dishes, or drying clothes, while the trekschuyi is lying 
 at the dock. The Dutch love color and paint their
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 boats as they do their windmills, in very bright col- 
 ors, which have a very cheerful effect as they pass 
 through the green meadows beneath the ever-chang- 
 ing sky ; and their reflections throw lovely hues upon 
 the tranquil waters. The sail-boats are also brightly 
 painted and carry large triangular red sails that the 
 sun and rain and winds have turned into a beautiful 
 shade of terra-cotta. Instead of a centre board, they 
 are supplied with a sort of movable paddle on each 
 side like a fish's fin, and when one of these Flying 
 Dutchmen comes skimming over the Zaan or Zuider 
 Zee or down the North Sea Canal with her sail belly- 
 ing in a stiff breeze and her sharp prow cleaving 
 the water, she is a very curious and pretty sight. 
 
 Little barges piled high with barrels, or cheeses, 
 or bales poled by one man are often moored in front 
 of the warehouses where workmen in blue blouses are 
 busy unloading or loading them; and wherever you 
 go, you see masts and sails appearing in the most 
 unexpected manner behind the bridges, in front of 
 the houses and along the streets, in the very heart of 
 the city. 
 
 Another characteristic sight in the streets of Am- 
 sterdam is the cart drawn by one, two or three dogs 
 and laden with milk-cans or piled high with vege- 
 tables and flowers. By its side walk peasant women 
 in their quaint costume. Soldiers are much in evi- 
 dence; and you also see women wearing the curious 
 metal helmet headdress; Lutheran preachers in their 
 black knee trousers, long-tailed coats, shovel hats 
 and low shoes; and young peasant women in short 
 
 145
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 striped skirts, low-necked black bodices, white head- 
 dresses, and coral necklaces. The latter are strik- 
 ingly healthful and ruddy of complexion and their 
 bare red arms are amazing. It is noticeable how the 
 streets fill as the afternoon fades into twilight. Then 
 the shops become illuminated and the cafes fill. 
 People sit rows deep in the broad windows of the 
 large cafes, particularly on Kalver Straat Amster- 
 dam's Fifth Avenue and Regent Street to watch 
 the endless procession that moves both up and down 
 the sidewalks and the centre of the street, from 
 which vehicles are prohibited at night. Innumer- 
 able little cafes spring up on the street behind green 
 arbors, containing perhaps only half a dozen little 
 tables, where family parties of men, women and 
 children sit drinking sweet syrups, smoking and en- 
 joying the passing show. 
 
 The two principal thoroughfares are Damrak 
 Straat and Kalver Straat, both of which lead into 
 the Dam, the large square, which is the centre of 
 business life. On our way up Damrak Straat from 
 the Central Railway Station, we pass the New Ex- 
 change (Neue Beurs). This also faces Warmoes 
 Straat, where rises the Oude Kerk whose jangling 
 chimes we constantly hear and whose splendid old 
 Gothic tower dominates every distant view of Am- 
 sterdam. It was erected about 1300 and has a 
 wooden vaulted roof supported by forty-two slender 
 pillars. There are some beautiful stained-glass win- 
 dows, particularly those depicting the life of the Vir- 
 gin, dating from 1555, the work of Pieter Aertsen, 
 
 146
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 a Dutch artist who -was familiarly called " Long Pe- 
 ter." The Oude Kerk contains monuments to some 
 of Holland's naval heroes, including one to Admiral 
 Yan Heemskerk who fell at the Battle of Gibraltar 
 in 1607 and to other Dutch celebrities. Behind the 
 choir, Philip II. signed the Treaty of Miinster, by 
 which he recognized the independence of the United 
 Provinces and renounced all rights in them. 
 
 As we walk along Warmoes Straat, which will 
 lead us to the Dam, we notice shops that sell food 
 of all kinds as well as clothing, and many hotels, res- 
 taurants and cafes. Among the latter is the cele- 
 brated Cafe Krasnapolsky, one of the largest in Eu- 
 rope. Streams of people are always passing in and 
 out. Flowers, mirrors and electric lights render the 
 rooms pleasant and attractive. Billiard-rooms and 
 a fine conservatory contribute their pleasures. 
 
 We now reach the Dam, where the principal 
 streets converge and where all the tram cars circle 
 around the tall monument surmounted by a figure of 
 Concordia, erected in 1856, to commemorate the 
 events of 1830-31. The buildings group well here. 
 The most important are the Nieuwe Kerk and the 
 Royal Palace. 
 
 The Nieuwe Kerk, which is only called new be- 
 cause it is a hundred years younger than the Oude 
 Kerk, is one of the most important churches in Hol- 
 land, and was built in 1408. It is a Gothic edifice 
 with side chapels, and its western tower, begun in 
 1565, is still unfinished. 
 
 The Nieuwe Kerk suffered from fire in 1421, 1578 
 147
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and 1645, but it has been well restored. It is more 
 interesting within than without, for the nave is cov- 
 ered with a vaulted wooden ceiling; some fine old 
 windows represent the siege of Leyden in 1573-74; 
 and there is a beautifully carved pulpit of 1649 by 
 Vinckenbrinck. The Nieuwe Kerk contains many 
 monuments to Holland's great admirals and generals, 
 including one to Admiral de Ruyter, who was 
 buried there in 1676. 
 
 Amsterdam, like every other city in the Low Coun- 
 tries, had to have a fine Town-hall in the days of 
 her great prosperity. Jacob van Campen, who built 
 the Mauri tshuis .and the House in the Wood (see 
 page 107), was the architect and the building was 
 begun in 1648. It was completed in 1655 and cost 
 the extraordinary sum of eight million florins 
 ($3,200,000). The massive building is 264 feet 
 long, 207 feet wide and 108 feet high and stands on 
 a foundation of 13,659 piles. Reliefs by Artus 
 Quellin adorn the gables, the subjects of which are 
 allegorical allusions to the glories of Amsterdam. 
 The cupola, surmounting the roof, is crowned by a 
 lantern, which is topped by a weather-vane in the 
 shape of a merchantman, suggested by the crest in 
 the city's coat of arms. The cupola contains a chime 
 of bells and offers to those who care to make the 
 rather difficult climb a very extensive and charming 
 view. 
 
 The walls of the entrance are lined with white 
 marble and all the apartments are ornamented with 
 sculpture in marble by Artus Quellin and his pupils, 
 
 148
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 finely carved mantel-pieces and fine ceiling paint- 
 ings. The large Reception Room is one of the finest 
 in the world. It is 117 feet long, 57 feet broad and 
 100 feet high. The walls are lined from floor to 
 ceiling with white Italian marble, and the marble 
 floor is wonderfully inlaid with copper stars repre- 
 senting a planisphere. This is so precious a work of 
 its kind that it is always kept covered by a fine 
 Deventer carpet. This is a splendid specimen of the 
 weaver's art, and few realize what lies beneath it. 
 When Louis Napoleon became King of Holland and 
 made Amsterdam his capital, the City presented the 
 Town-hall to him for a residence, since when it has 
 remained the Royal Palace (Het Paleis). Some of 
 the rooms were slightly altered at the time and newly 
 decorated in the Empire style. These furnishings 
 still remain. The Yellow Tea Room, the Small 
 Dining Room, the Large Dining Room (originally 
 the South Gallery), the Queen's Room, and the 
 Throne Room are all shown to the public and con- 
 tain splendid chimney-pieces and pictures by such 
 famous artists as Govaert Elinck, Ferdinand Bol 
 and Jan Lievens. 
 
 When the Town-hall became the Palace, the old 
 Court of Admiralty in the Oudezyds-Voorburgwal 
 was made the Stadhuis. 
 
 The old Exchange stood on the Dam, and its suc- 
 cessor on the old site, built in 1845, was the money- 
 market until the New Exchange was completed in 
 recent years. 
 
 Before the great east and west docks (Ooster Dole 
 149
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and Wester Dok) were built, ships were docked on 
 the quay called Prins-HendriJc-Kade (formerly the 
 Buitenkant}, which so often figures in the pictures 
 of old Amsterdam. A little quiet stroll along this 
 street will repay the traveller, because there are some 
 peculiar old warehouses and dwelling-houses still 
 standing. Among the latter (No. 131), is the home 
 of the great Admiral de Ruyter, whose portrait ap- 
 pears on the gable. 
 
 Beyond this quay, facing the Open Haven, stands 
 a quaint low tower that was built in 1482. It re- 
 ceived the name Sclireyerstoren (Criers' or Weepers' 
 Tower) because the friends and relatives of sea-goers 
 used to wave their tearful farewells from it. 
 
 The neighboring church with a dome and two tow- 
 ers is the Roman Catholic St. Nicholas, which, 
 though modern, adds much to the picturesque view 
 of Amsterdam when the city is approached from 
 theY. 
 
 On a very wide canal, leading from the Prins- 
 Hendrik-Kade, and called the Oude Schans, there 
 stands another typical Dutch tower, called the 
 Montalbaans. Nothing is known about it except that 
 it is very old. 
 
 The Geldersche-Kade runs in a straight line from 
 the Schreyerstoren to the Nieuwe Marlct, Amster- 
 dam's great fish market, where we find a very inter- 
 esting relic of the Middle Ages, the old town gate 
 of St. Anthony (St. Anthonieswaag), built in 1488- 
 1585, and which with its conical turrets reminds us 
 of the days of chivalry and legend. This was long 
 
 150
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 ago converted into a weigh-house and also used by 
 various guilds of the town. The archives of the city 
 are kept here. 
 
 From the Nieuwe Markt, the Kloveniers-Burg- 
 wal flows into the Binnen-Amstel and a little street, 
 called Doelen-Straat, runs to the bridge that leads to 
 Sopliia-Plein, on which stands the old Mint Tower. 
 On the way, we pass the Trippenliuis, an interesting 
 old house built in 1662. In it the gallery of pictures 
 was preserved before the Ryks Museum was built. 
 
 Between the Oude Schans and the Nieuwe Heer- 
 engracht lies the thickly populated Jewish Quarter, 
 where the children of Israel have dwelt for hundreds 
 of years. It is more picturesque than sanitary. The 
 streets and canals are narrow and winding; and the 
 houses are tall and rise directly out of the water, with 
 small windows from which hang strings of garments 
 of all sizes, hues and shapes and rags of all varieties. 
 Occasionally a window sill is brightened with a pot 
 of blooming flowers and a bird in a wicker basket 
 or wire cage hangs mournfully above the sluggish 
 water. Children and dogs play on the door sills just 
 above the water, and men and women enliven the 
 streets as they walk up and down carrying old 
 clothes, fish, and other foods. 
 
 Among several synagogues there are two that are 
 specially famous the big one in the Muiderstraat, 
 built in 1670, said to be in imitation of Solomon's 
 Temple, and the Aaron's and Moses's Church. Those 
 who are curious to see where Rembrandt resided 
 from 1640 to 1656 will find his house marked with 
 
 151
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 a tablet near the bridge on Jodenbree Straat. The 
 Jewish Cemetery is also in this quarter and is de- 
 scribed as " a dreary Golgotha of a place with the sea 
 wind soughing in the branches of the trees and the 
 grass overgrown and rank. The grey mouldering 
 tombstones lean this way and that, for the ceaseless 
 wash of the waves beneath is always lessening their 
 hold on the earth." 
 
 Diamond-mills can be visited in Zwanenburger- 
 Straat, for this city is still an important market for 
 gems. 
 
 Amsterdam was nearly as famous for the books 
 that were published there as for her diamond-polish- 
 ing. The celebrated family of printers, the Elzevirs, 
 famous for the beautiful editions they brought out, 
 established a house in Amsterdam in 1638. In this 
 city were also published many books that were pro- 
 hibited in France. 
 
 Amsterdam, too, was a great Mecca for the painters 
 of the Low Countries. It was Rembrandt's home for 
 many years. Here he painted all of his greatest 
 works ; and here also lived Thomas De Keyser, Fer- 
 dinand Bol, Paul Potter and Bartholomew van der 
 Heist among others of note. The wealthy merchants 
 and burgomasters were liberal patrons of art. 
 
 The gallery of Baron J. P. Six in the Heeren- 
 gracht, to which visitors are admitted, is one of the 
 finest private galleries in Europe. It includes pict- 
 ures and family portraits by Rembrandt, Jan 
 Lievens, Govaert Flinck, Gerard Dow, Nicholas 
 Maes, Paul Potter, Jan Van Huysum, Hobbema, 
 
 152
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 Ruisdael, Rachel Ruysch, Hondecoeter and other 
 masters that were owned by Jan Six, who was burgo- 
 master of Amsterdam from 1691 till 1702. The por- 
 trait of the latter, painted by Rembrandt in 1656, is 
 one of his most admired productions, and represents 
 the subject dressed in a red cloak with gold embroid- 
 ery and a large black hat. His expression is rather 
 meditative, while he is pulling on his left glove in the 
 most natural manner. 
 
 Everybody in the seventeenth century in Amster- 
 dam had his or her portrait painted ; and portraiture 
 in groups was a branch of art that was specially 
 practiced. Companies of soldiers, members of civic 
 guards, guilds of merchants, and regents and direct- 
 ors of various medical and charitable societies were 
 in the habit of clubbing together and having them- 
 selves painted by some artist of note to hang upon 
 the walls of their shooting-galleries, guard-houses 
 (doelen), hospitals, lecture-rooms or guild-halls. 
 These works are known as " Regent," " Doelen," 
 and " Corporation " pictures. 
 
 Rembrandt, Bartholomew Van der Heist, Frans 
 Hals, Ferdinand Bol and Karel Dujardin, brought 
 this class of portrait-painting to the pitch of artistic 
 perfection. Rembrandt achieved his first great fame 
 with the "Lesson in Anatomy" (see page 108), or- 
 dered by the great Amsterdam surgeon, Dr. Tulp, for 
 the Amsterdam Guild of Surgeons ; and several years 
 later he painted the more famous " Night Watch," 
 for the Arquebusiers Shooting Company, and " The 
 Syndics," for the Guild of Clothmakers. 
 
 153
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Both of these pictures are in the Ryks Museum, 
 \vhich we will now visit. The tram at the Dam, 
 which will take us there in a short time, crosses the 
 "big canals that girdle the city. We alight at the 
 boundary of the old and the new Amsterdam; and, 
 walking a short distance along the Stadhouders- 
 Kade, are confronted by a majestic building of red 
 brick with granite trimmings, surmounted by two 
 towers and a central gable. This, the great National 
 Museum of Holland, had its beginnings in 1798, and 
 was opened in the House in the Wood in The Hague 
 in 1800; but in 1808, when Amsterdam was made 
 the capital of Holland, the pictures were removed 
 from The Hague to the Palace on the Dam, where 
 some old pictures owned by the city of Amsterdam 
 were also sent. In 1814 they were all removed to 
 the Trippenhuis, where they remained until the Ryks 
 Museum was opened in 1885. 
 
 The picture gallery, which occupies the first floor, 
 is one of the finest in the Netherlands and numbers 
 more than two thousand works, chiefly by Dutch art- 
 ists. The greatest treasure is Rembrandt's " Night 
 Watch," representing Captain Banning Cocq's com- 
 pany of archers leaving their headquarters. The 
 captain and his lieutenant are in the front and are 
 followed by their soldiers streaming out of the guard- 
 house in confusion and haste. Conspicuous among 
 them are the drummer and the standard-bearer. 
 
 The " Night Watch " is one of the most famous 
 pictures in the world. It is not only remarkable for 
 the spirited motion of its figures, but for its effects 
 
 154
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 of light and shade. In fact, it is so enveloped in twi- 
 light that the spectator has to look at the picture for 
 some time before the figures emerge from the shad- 
 ows, and the faces, limbs, bodies, drums, flags and 
 lances take definite shape. 
 
 The " Syndics " is also a portrait group. Five 
 Dutch cloth-merchants, all dressed alike, in black, 
 with flat, white collars and large black hats, are seated 
 around a table, covered with a red cloth, verifying 
 their accounts. Some critics consider it Rembrandt's 
 greatest picture. Two other great pictures of this 
 class are by Bartholomew Van der Heist. One rep- 
 resents Captain Roelof Bicker's Company and con- 
 tains thirty-two life-size figures. Captain Bicker and 
 his men are welcoming a new ensign in front of a 
 tavern in the Geldersche-Kade. Every figure is dra- 
 matic in pose and expression, and the colors of the 
 costumes are very brilliant and varied. The other 
 work depicts a banquet of the St. George Company 
 in their St. Jorisdoele, or guardhouse, on the Singel- 
 gracht, in celebration of the Peace of Minister. The 
 twenty-five figures are splendidly dressed, in velvet 
 and satin doublets, plumed hats, lace collars and cuffs, 
 sashes, high boots and golden spurs, and all are eating 
 and drinking, talking and laughing, or cordially 
 grasping hands. Marvellously painted are the vi- 
 ands, the dishes, the gold and silver drinking-horns, 
 the tall wine glasses, filled with sparkling liquid, the 
 orange that one man is peeling, the fowl that another 
 is carving, and the pastry that a servant is bringing 
 in to the feast. 
 
 155
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Govaert Flinck's " Arquebusiers of Amsterdam," 
 celebrating the Peace of Westphalia, and represent- 
 ing the soldiers issuing from their guardhouse, is an- 
 other splendid work of this class. It hangs in a spe- 
 cial section devoted to " Regent," " Corporation " 
 and " Guild " pictures. 
 
 Everybody pauses to look at the " Floating 
 Feather," by Melchior d' Hondecoeter. Here we have 
 a group of birds in a lovely park : on the left stands 
 a large pelican and, behind it, a crane, a flamingo 
 and a cassowary; on the right are some ducks and 
 geese; and in front of the swimming ducks the deli- 
 cately painted feather floats on the surface of the 
 quiet pool. 
 
 The Ryks Museum has other treasures besides pict- 
 ures. There are splendid porcelains from the Orient 
 and native productions; wonderful examples of cut 
 and engraved glass of the seventeenth and eighteenth 
 centuries ; silver plate of rare workmanship, includ- 
 ing superb drinking-horns belonging to the city of 
 Amsterdam and which appear in Van der Heist's 
 pictures just described ; rare etchings and engravings 
 by Rembrandt and other masters ; carvings in wood 
 and ivory; tapestries, embroideries and lace; Chi- 
 nese and Japanese curios and articles in lacquer; 
 brass, copper and bronze utensils; small articles in 
 gold and silver for household service or personal 
 adornment; jewels and costumes; musical instru- 
 ments; carriages, sleighs and sedan-chairs; and 
 weapons and uniforms. 
 
 A department illustrating ecclesiastical art from 
 156
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 the eighth to the eighteenth century with reproduc- 
 tions and relics in the way of bits of architecture, 
 church- windows, furniture, pulpits, vestments and 
 sacred vessels, occupies much space. The Naval 
 Collection is also extensive. In addition to captured 
 flags and trophies and relics of Dutch explorers and 
 navigators, there are many models of ships of differ- 
 ent periods. The grounds on the south side of the 
 building are laid out in imitation of a Dutch garden 
 of the seventeenth century, with hedges, a maze, 
 flowers, statues and vases; and contains, moreover, 
 fragments and reproductions of old Dutch buildings 
 that have been tastefully grouped. 
 
 A few steps down Paulus Potter Straat we find 
 the Stedelyk Museum, dating from 1892, and con- 
 taining Dutch antiquities of various kinds and a gal- 
 lery of modern Dutch paintings. 
 
 Amsterdam is not very rich in parks. The most 
 popular is Vondel's Park, not far from the Ryks 
 Museum. It is named in honor of Holland's most 
 celebrated poet, Joost van den Vondel, who died in 
 1679, and whose tragedy Gysbrecht van Amstel de- 
 scribing Amsterdam's historical murder (see page 
 131) still holds the stage. The Park contains a 
 statue of the poet, and beneath the shady trees a 
 ca/e, a restaurant, and a little pond. 
 
 Willems-Park, Sarphati Park, East Park and 
 West Park } are somewhat smaller open spaces than 
 are generally met with in large European cities. The 
 Botanical Gardens, south of a little private park, 
 have long been famous for their palms and Victoria 
 
 157
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Regia house, and the Zoological Gardens north of 
 the Botanic Gardens and south of the Entrepot 
 Dole, embrace twenty-eight acres. People also flock 
 in large numbers in the summer to the Tea Gardens 
 of the old Custom House over the Y, crossing by 
 means of a steam ferry, to enjoy the music from the 
 military band and the beautiful view of Amsterdam. 
 
 Amsterdam, like other cities in Holland, is ren- 
 dered somewhat independent of parks and squares by 
 innumerable retreats upon the canals in and near the 
 city. Alphonse Esquiros notices that " Holland is 
 not the only country where you find the most water, 
 but also the one where you find the most motionless 
 water. The canals are arrested rivers, and this se- 
 renity of the water is related to that of the manners, 
 habitations and countenances. Near the towns 
 Chinese pavilions are built on the canal banks, where 
 people meet in fine weather to drink tea and coffee. 
 Some of these pavilions, whose roofs are covered with 
 varnished and glistening tiles, bathe their base in 
 water with a joyous air. In these nests, which re- 
 pose under an abundant verdure, domestic happi- 
 ness seeks a refuge. The stranger who wanders about 
 alone regards with an eye of envy these little re- 
 treats, which are so proud of their cleanliness, and 
 look at themselves in the canal like a girl before a 
 looking-glass. Here the ladies apply themselves to 
 needle-work, while looking out at the passing boats 
 and travellers ; while for the men the hours evaporate 
 in rings of smoke." 
 
 Attractive and numerous are the short trips that 
 158
 
 The City of Amsterdam 
 
 can be made from Amsterdam to points of historic 
 interest and natural beauty. It is only a short run 
 to Haarlem by the electric tram and not three hours 
 to Alkmaar, to which interesting old town steam- 
 boats go several times a day. 
 
 159
 
 THE CITY OF HAMBURG 
 THE BEEFSTEAK TOWN 
 
 THERE are two pictures of Hamburg that recur 
 to everyone who has visited that city : one is 
 the harbor with its forest of masts, its gigantic docks 
 and enormous ships and steamers from all parts of the 
 world; and the other is that of the beautiful Alster 
 lakes and the leafy and gay Jungfernstieg, where in 
 the Alster-Pavillion are served dishes that justify 
 Hamburg's great reputation for good living. No one 
 ever misses going there, if not to eat the famous beef- 
 steak which has given Hamburg its popular name, at 
 least to drink a cup of coffee outside in the covered 
 verandah on the water side, and enjoy the view over 
 the Alster. 
 
 Hamburg has always favored art science and let- 
 ters; and the theatre has been one of the city's 
 greatest pleasures. Klopstock made this city his 
 home in 1771 ; and Heine was also a familiar figure. 
 At the present time, Hamburg shows much literary 
 activity, and a literary society, founded in 1891, gives 
 Volksabende (people's evenings) that are well sup- 
 ported and attended. It is also famous for its gen- 
 erosity, its hospitality and its lavish and elegant 
 entertainment. 
 
 160
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 To landscape more than to architecture Hamburg 
 owes its charm. Few cities have such beautiful 
 water scenes. Hamburg is framed by water. On the 
 south, the broad Elbe forms a noble river front, and 
 is of such depth that gigantic boats can dock at her 
 very streets ; and on the north two lovely lakes form 
 a water picture of widely different character; and 
 close at hand is the sea which sends its salt, sharp 
 and sweet air into the very heart of the city. It is 
 one of the world's great ports. 
 
 Hamburg is not only a city : it is a state, to which 
 a territory, consisting of some fifty towns and vil- 
 lages, is subject; and this greater Hamburg is also 
 beautiful. Various types of landscape are displayed 
 within its boundaries. Here we find marshes and 
 there we find meadows; here we see waving wheat 
 fields and there we see rich pasture lands. Poets 
 have said that no Babylonian garments decorated 
 with gold and jewels could equal the emerald mead- 
 ows so thickly embroidered with many colored 
 flowers that surround the town of Hamburg. 
 
 The water near the city is dyked with earth stolen 
 for centuries from the river-bed. The high hills on 
 the right of the Elbe from Altona to Blankenese cor- 
 respond with the harbor hills on the other side of the 
 river high wooded hills that remind us of the hills 
 of Thuringia. Other parts of the surrounding coun- 
 try are well wooded, although the landscape is flat, 
 except in the Sachsenwald, so famous for its fine 
 beeches. Most attractive are Bergedorf, where the 
 peasants still wear their quaint ancient costume, and 
 
 161
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the other forest villages, where the rich Hamburger 
 has been enabled by means of the extension of sub- 
 urban railways to build charming country places for 
 rest and recreation. 
 
 Heath and moor with their melancholy charm 
 are also in close proximity, easily accessible in the 
 Luneburger Heide; and there are many watering- 
 places on the sandy shore, such as Xumuhlen and 
 Oevelgonne, where the people can be as jolly and 
 noisy as they please; and there are little fishing-vil- 
 lages that lie behind Altona on the Elbe, where old 
 sea captains tired of going to sea sun themselves on 
 benches, and where there are boarding-houses for 
 summer guests and hospitable inn-gardens for the 
 loiterer. Then there are islands, inhabited and un- 
 inhabited, lying on the breast of the broad Elbe ; and 
 there are rich low-lying lands behind broad dykes 
 Vierlande (cattle-land) and Alteland (old-land) and 
 the Liike, reminding us of Holland; and, last, but 
 by no means least, the great Hamburg seashore re- 
 sort, Cuxhaven, at the wide mouth of the Elbe, with 
 a magnificent old castle dating from the fourteenth 
 century, one of the best examples of a mediseval 
 stronghold in Germany. 
 
 Hamburg, or Hammaburg, owes its foundation to 
 a port built by Charlemagne in 808 on the Alster 
 as a check on his Slavonian subjects, who then ex- 
 tended as far west as this point. The fort was 
 quickly destroyed by the Wilzes (a Slavonic tribe), 
 but was rebuilt in 810. It became the centre of 
 Christian missionary work in the region north of 
 
 162
 
 
 
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 PS 
 
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 H
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 the Elbe and in Scandinavia; and later included 
 Iceland and Greenland in its diocese. 
 
 In 845, the Normans burnt the settlement to 
 ashes. The seat of the Archbishopric was then trans- 
 ferred to Bremen, which, in a measure, was a check 
 to the western progress of Christianity. The town 
 was rebuilt, but up to the time of Henry I. it suf- 
 fered several times from the destructive expeditions 
 of the Danish and Slavonic tribes. In the tenth cen- 
 tury, it found peace and security under Hermann 
 Billung, the energetic Duke of Saxony. On the 
 death of Otto II. it was retaken by a rising of the 
 Slavonians, who held it from 983 to 987. On the 
 site of the old buildings, Archbishop Unwan (1013 
 1029) built a chapter-house, and Alebrand con- 
 structed a cathedral and palace (the Wideburg) on 
 the Elbe in 1037. This was also destroyed in 1072 
 by the Wends. Hamburg was acquired by Count 
 Adolphus of Schauenburg with Holstein in 1110. 
 The Cathedral was restored under this prince. 
 Count Adolphus III. founded the new City close to 
 the Old City in 1188, and under him Hamburg, as 
 a reward for a large contribution to the Third Cru- 
 sade (1189), obtained important privileges from the 
 Emperor, including judicial rights, freedom from 
 tolls and the right of fishing on the Elbe to its 
 mouth. Guilds and trade organizations were already 
 in existence. The Counts of Schauenburg constantly 
 strengthened their hold on the city; and in 1231, 
 built a strong castle in it. 
 
 About 1241, Hamburg and Liibeck made an al- 
 163 .
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 liance to protect their trade interests, which is fre- 
 quently referred to as the origin of The Han- 
 seatic League, the name of which was derived from 
 Hansa, or association. This was an alliance of the 
 great commercial towns of northern Germany, par- 
 ticularly for the protection of the Baltic trade, which 
 Denmark threatened to monopolize. Liibeck was the 
 head of the League and became the most important 
 town in Germany. 
 
 In the fourteenth century, the Hansa changed its 
 character from a league of merchants abroad to a 
 league of towns at home. The Hansa declined in the 
 sixteenth century; and in 1669 the last general as- 
 sembly was held. After that the name of Hanse 
 towns was kept by Liibeck, Hamburg and Bremen, 
 all of which were now independent. 
 
 The Reformed Religion was introduced in 1529 
 and during the religious dissensions that followed 
 many people, driven away by the bigotry of the Lu- 
 therans, founded the adjoining town Altona. To- 
 wards the last of the century many Spanish and 
 Portuguese Jews sought refuge and made a perma- 
 nent home in Hamburg, and merchants and others, 
 driven from Antwerp by the Spanish troubles, also 
 flocked to Hamburg. 
 
 During the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648), 
 Hamburg managed to keep the scourge of war at a 
 distance and suffered very few of the calamities that 
 fell upon the German inland towns. But though the 
 population of the city increased, vast sums had to be 
 spent on various measures of protection; and great 
 
 164
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 losses were suffered through the insecurity of both 
 the land and sea transportation of goods till the 
 pirates and robber bands were suppressed. 
 
 What Hamburg was during the first half of the 
 eighteenth century we learn from the following 
 sketch : 
 
 " Hamburg was the largest of all the commercial 
 cities of Germany. The houses were very high, and 
 the streets so narrow that two vehicles could not pass 
 each other. The inhabitants were chiefly merchants, 
 and amongst them were many English families. The 
 city was divided into five parishes, each of which had 
 a handsome Protestant church. Hamburg was a free 
 city, governed by four burgomasters, twenty-four 
 senators, and some other magistrates. There were 
 very few mechanics and fewer manufacturers, the 
 only articles made there being gold and silver, lace, 
 stockings and silks. The trade, however, was so great 
 that as many as 300 ships were constantly employed 
 in carrying its merchandise to and from England, 
 Holland and the German States by means of the 
 river Elbe. So important was this city that in 
 times of war it was always considered neutral, and 
 was not, therefore, subject to depredations like other 
 cities. 
 
 "Hamburg was very conspicuous for its little 
 trim Dutch gardens along the banks of the river. 
 Not a twig was out of order, not a plant was allowed 
 to grow to any height. 
 
 " All was prim and formal in the extreme ; but 
 here the merchant would saunter up and down smok- 
 
 165
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ing his pipe after office hours in gossip with his 
 neighbor on the current topics of the day. 
 
 " The gates were always closed at sun-down, after 
 which no one was allowed to enter or leave the city. 
 
 " The ladies of Hamburg were very reserved in 
 their manners, and rarely appeared in the streets 
 without a thick black veil. The Senators wore a 
 black Spanish cloak, a velvet hat and a sword. They 
 were chosen for life, ten being lawyers and fourteen 
 of them merchants, each of whom was expected to 
 keep a private coach." * 
 
 In 1770 the city was represented in the " Rhen- 
 ish bench " of the imperial diet; in 1810 the French 
 made it the chief town in the department of the 
 " Mouths of the Elbe " ; and in 1815 Hamburg be- 
 came an independent state of the German federation 
 and formed with Liibeck, Bremen and Frankfort the 
 curia of the free cities. 
 
 Hamburg's trade was in a flourishing condition 
 when the Great Fire of 1842 destroyed 4219 build- 
 ings and deprived 20,000 persons of their homes, 
 i The year 1858 was of great importance ; for a com- 
 mission met there to discuss the navigation of the 
 Elbe and maritime law. In 1866, Hamburg sup- 
 ported Prussia against Austria, and favored the 
 formation of the North German Confederation by 
 a large majority. 
 
 Approaching the city from Cuxhaven we notice 
 
 the fishing-villages that succeed one another until we 
 
 reach Blankenese; and then villas, parks and pleas- 
 
 * Dr. Brewer. 
 
 166
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 lire-grounds are dotted upon the wooded hills until 
 the town of Altona comes into view. The charac- 
 ter of the suburbs varies greatly labor, manu- 
 facture, commerce, shop-keeping, garden and villa 
 districts, one after another, all harmoniously com- 
 bined. 
 
 As we approach the town, the forest of masts, the 
 towers and spires and masses of buildings announce 
 Hamburg. A long line of docks and quays and 
 warehouses extend all the way from Altona, a dis- 
 tance of five miles ! 
 
 From the haven, we have an impressive picture 
 of the great metropolis before us with its busy, ever- 
 moving life laboring and manufacturing, and sea- 
 going Hamburg. Against the background of houses 
 and churches a multitude of boats and ships form a 
 moving foreground of sails and masts and clouds of 
 smoke. 
 
 The quiet centre of this city picture which the eye 
 always sought with pleasure the old and venerable 
 St. Michael's Church is now missing, having been 
 destroyed by Hamburg's latest fire. This enormous 
 tower, which rose 426 feet into the air, was a char- 
 acteristic Hamburg landmark and is mourned by 
 everyone; and although another church is being 
 erected on the same site and upon the old walls, it 
 can never atone for the loss of Great St. Michael's. 
 This church was built in 1750-1762, and could ac- 
 commodate three thousand worshipers. Its tall tower 
 was visible from every street, or canal, or bridge, 
 in the city. 
 
 167
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Though St. Michael's has gone, the left bank is 
 still dominated by the tops of the Stintfang with the 
 signal station, and the Sailors' Home peeping above 
 the beautiful clumps of green trees ; while on the 
 right the great warehouses on the quays and the time 
 ball Tower show above the busy traffic of the bank 
 of the haven. 
 
 Between these two prominent points extends a long 
 line of not very tall houses of the haven ; ships with 
 their gangways and cranes; piers with the dirty wa- 
 ter of the stream washing against them and the char- 
 acteristic piles called " Dukes of Alba " that stick 
 out of the water. All that the eye falls upon is the 
 work of man's hand that has taken centuries of toil 
 to produce. The dyked land between the north and 
 south banks of the Elbe looks like anchored islands ; 
 the bed of the water has been narrowed and deep- 
 ened ; the mighty wharves and factories and the big 
 viaduct over the dock of Blohm & Voss, the quays 
 and warehouse canals and private docks, are all 
 triumphs of man's industry, and on such a gigantic 
 scale and so impressive that it seems to be the work 
 of nature. 
 
 One of the features of Hamburg is the luxuriant 
 belt of green that surrounds it, extending from the 
 Stintfang all the way north, east and south to the 
 Berlin Kailway Station. These delightful prome- 
 nades were laid out on the old fortifications that for- 
 merly encircled the city, which consists of the Alt- 
 stadt and the Neustadt (old town and new town), 
 joined on the one side by the suburb of St. George 
 
 168
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 and on the other by that of St. Pauli and the town 
 of Altona. 
 
 On the north side lies the most beautiful district 
 of Hamburg, built around a sheet of water called the 
 Binnen-Alster (Inner Alster), formed from a larger 
 lake outside the town called the Ausser-Alster (Outer 
 Alster), which, in turn, is supplied by a small river, 
 the Alster. On the east, another little river, the 
 Bille, enters Hamburg; and both rivers are dis- 
 charged into canals called fleets and into branches of 
 the Elbe that flow through the lower parts of the 
 town. These canals, of various sizes, some of which 
 wind gracefully around the quays, and crossed by in- 
 numerable bridges from which picturesque views of 
 the town are obtained, give a peculiar individuality 
 to Hamburg. All these havens, canals and the two 
 glassy Alster lakes fully justify Mr. Steevens's 
 happy remark that " Hamburg is gemmed with la- 
 goons." 
 
 We have seen industrial Hamburg from the Elbe ; 
 now let us look at leisured and pleasure-loving Ham- 
 burg around the Binnen-Alster, or Alster-Bassin, as 
 it is generally called. The Binnen-Alster is per- 
 fectly square, about a mile in circumference and sur- 
 rounded on three sides by wide quays bordered with 
 trees, handsome dwellings and magnificent hotels. 
 The quay called the Alte-Jungfernstieg is the gayest 
 and busiest; on its left is the Neue-Jungfernstieg 
 and on its right is the Alsterdamm; while, directly 
 opposite the Alte-Jungfernstieg, and separating the 
 Binnen-Alster from the outer lake, is an embankment 
 
 169
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 consisting of two parks, or promenades, connected by 
 a bridge called the Lombardsbriicke. 
 
 A beautiful view is to be had from this bridge, 
 looking north across the Ausser- Alster, with its ris- 
 ing banks, on which the villas of the wealthy with 
 their parks and gardens are thickly sprinkled; and, 
 looking south across the Binnen-Alster, gay with little 
 boats and floating swans, to the city whose buildings 
 and towers make such a pretty picture. At the end 
 of the Old Jungfernstieg the Alster-Pavillion 3 
 situated, a cafe that is to Hamburg what the 
 Bratwurstglbckle is to Nuremburg and the Hofbrdu- 
 liaus to Munich. On the right of the Old Jungfern- 
 stieg are the Alster Arcades, a street running paral- 
 lel with the little Alster that flows in from the lake 
 and filled with attractive shops. The Alster Arcades 
 extend from the Reesendammbriicke to the Schleu- 
 senbriicke, two bridges that run parallel with the Old 
 Jungfernstieg. 
 
 " The picture seen from the Alster," exclaims an 
 artist, " is harmonious in line and picturesque in 
 composition with the mass of many slender towers 
 artistically distributed in a fine frame composed 
 of beautiful groups of buildings. Naturally, you 
 must select your point of view in order to see it 
 embedded in green. If we are in a boat on the Outer 
 Alster we see the Lombardsbriicke with its three fine 
 arches, and behind it the roofs of the Jungfernstieg 
 and the high towers of Hamburg. Here again we 
 miss the dominating tower of old St. Michael's ; but 
 there still remain enough slender, characteristic and 
 
 170
 
 o 
 P 
 
 a 
 4" 
 
 H 
 <1 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 O
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 various church towers such as St. Nicholas, St. 
 Peter and St. Jakobi. The old Post towers, a pair 
 of high chimneys like those of the city mills, also 
 take their place very effectively in the picture. The 
 foreground shows us the bright surface of the Alster, 
 enlivened with sail boats and small steamboats, a 
 city picture that for variety and idyllic character 
 cannot be matched anywhere. 
 
 " Magnificent also is the view from the Lom- 
 bardsbriicke of the Binnen- Alster and the Jungfern- 
 stieg. Let your eyes rove around as they will, they 
 will constantly return to the broad fine promenades 
 that embrace the water from left to right and will 
 rest with satisfaction on the prominent Jungfern- 
 stieg with the tall fine building which juts out into 
 the water the Alster-Pavillion and the splendid 
 hotels and the handsome appearance of the impor- 
 tant shops. 
 
 " But in the evening, when all the lights are burn- 
 ing in the streets and behind the windows, and all 
 the lanterns and lights on the boats and ships blaze 
 out on the water and mirror themselves in the waves, 
 then the scene is like fairy-land. Perhaps it is most 
 beautiful in the twilight when the Alster assumes a 
 deep blue tint. This is the Alster's hour of blue. 
 
 " Beautiful, too, is the winter picture of the Alster 
 with its flying guests, the sea-gulls. 
 
 " One severe winter they suddenly appeared in 
 the centre of the city. People fed them and the 
 knowing creatures came again winter after winter. 
 Now they are regular visitors and everybody loves 
 
 171
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 and feeds them. You can buy sea-gull food on the 
 streets for ten pfennig. Venice has her St. Mark's 
 pigeons ; Hamburg has the Alster gulls." 
 
 The banks of the Ausser-Alster are very beauti- 
 ful, as they are dotted with villas, gardens and 
 parks, the residences of Hamburg's wealthy citi- 
 zens. There are also several villages here, the most 
 popular one of which is Uhlenhorst, which can be 
 reached by tram or steamer from the Jungfernstieg. 
 At Horn, three miles east of Hamburg, the annual 
 races are run, the German Derby. 
 
 Next to London and New York Hamburg is the 
 third largest port in the world ; and therefore, among 
 the chief sights of the town, if not the most interest- 
 ing of all, are the quays and docks. 
 
 Regular tourist trips are made to these harbors, 
 havens and docks, starting from the Hafentor at the 
 landing-stage of St. Pauli. 
 
 " Every doc*, slip and basin has its own name, and 
 receives its own line of ships and boats. What a 
 scene of movement, and what a noise of clanking 
 chains, puffing engines, creaking and groaning of the 
 winches and windlasses, cries and shouts of the work- 
 men and sailors as the busy hands raise by means of 
 rope and chain windlass the wares from the chutes 
 below to the various floors of the warehouses. What 
 a variety of boats and great chutes empty or full 
 move up and down along-side of these boats by 
 their manipulators. Then, too, we frequently see a 
 primitive barge moved by one man who pushes his 
 way through the mass of shipping by means of a 
 
 172
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 pole and hook, slowly indeed, but very deftly and 
 surely and bringing his boat through the apparently 
 impenetrable mass of boats to the required landing. 
 We also note the little light boats, the steam-boats of 
 the harbor-police, or a steam-tug that leaves a long 
 plume of smoke behind it and its shadow on the 
 water. 
 
 " Eye and ear have had much to see and hear ; 
 but what about the nose? Could one ever imag- 
 ine such odors as escape from the chutes and open 
 warehouses? Such strong perfumes as hides, whale 
 oil and petroleum fill the air with an inexplicable 
 mixture at which the unaccustomed nostril guesses 
 in vain. Part of the stench comes from the fleets 
 themselves. At the ebb tide, when all business on 
 these canals ceases and the chutes lie black and stiff 
 in the mud, through which the dirty water only flows 
 in runnels, then many things come to light which ex- 
 plain these terrible smells. 
 
 " The Fleeterikieker gentry, who make a business 
 of doing nothing, and who stand for hours leaning 
 over a bridge rail gazing into the canal, have cer- 
 tainly no cause to complain about the variety of 
 things they see in the mud. Whether they take any 
 interest in the changing lights and shades of the day 
 and hour is questionable; but certain it is that the 
 lovely shadows and lights that often produce fantas- 
 tic effects in the fleets are enough to induce any one 
 with an artistic eye to become a Fleetenkieker." 
 
 The most attractive of the fleets lie in the old town, 
 such as the fleet by the ReimersbrucJce, with St. Ger- 
 
 173
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 trade's Church in the background ; or the fleet at the 
 high bridge, where the top of the tower peeps over 
 the gabled roofs ; or the small fleet behind the walls, 
 where you see the backs of the old warehouses and 
 dwellings, remnants of the mediaeval days when the 
 town was enclosed with walls and people dwelt close 
 together for greater security. 
 
 If we go in from the fleet to enter one of these old 
 warehouses, we traverse a narrow but deep piece of 
 ground before we come to the street. Between the 
 warehouse and the dwelling and counting-houses on 
 the street stretches a larger or smaller courtyard, on 
 which the windows of a side wing look; and this 
 wing generally connects the front and back building. 
 At last we reach the broad Hanseatic Kaufmanns- 
 diele on the street and find ourselves in the centre 
 of old Hamburg. 
 
 In addition to being the greatest port on the 
 Continent, Hamburg is one of the greatest money 
 markets in the world. Therefore, the Exchange, or 
 Borse, in the Adolphs-Platz is worth a visit. Here 
 four or five thousand brokers, merchants and ship- 
 owners congregate every day between one and two 
 o'clock. 
 
 The building erected in 1839-1841 was spared by 
 the fire of 1842; and was given a new fagade in 
 1894. It also houses a fine Reading-room and a 
 Library of 100,000 volumes. The Exchange is con- 
 nected with the new Raihaus, or Town Hall, built in 
 1886-1897 in the German Renaissance style. The 
 latter faces the Rathaus-Markt, and demands a lit- 
 
 174
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 tie study on our part. On the fagade are bronze 
 statues of twenty German Emperors and above them 
 seven patron saints of the five old city parishes and 
 two monasteries. These are Michael, Katharine, 
 Peter, Nicholas and James, for the city; and John 
 and Mary Magdalen for the monasteries. Above the 
 windows are placed the arms of the Hanseatic towns 
 and figures representing various arts and crafts. 
 Four figures emblematical of the civic virtues adorn 
 the portal and the German Eagle surmounts the 
 tower which is 370 feet high. In the centre of the 
 courtyard is a fountain. The principal rooms are 
 the Great Hall, the Senate, the Town Council, the 
 Kaisersadl, the Burgomaster's Room, the Orphans' 
 Room and the Phoenix Room. In the vaults is the 
 Ratsweinkeller, a restaurant and tavern, the vesti- 
 bule of which is decorated with stained glass and 
 paintings dealing with the history and ancient cus- 
 toms of Hamburg. In front of the Rathaus stands 
 an equestrian statue of William I. The old Ham- 
 burger, one who clings to the old standing of the 
 free town, does not look lovingly either at the Eagle 
 on the tower, or at the statue of the Emperor. He 
 still sighs for his ancient privileges. 
 
 Owing to the modern spirit of the Hamburgers, 
 and more particularly to the great fire of 1842, 
 Hamburg contains few ancient buildings. With 
 the exception of a few churches and some old 
 residences of the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- 
 turies in the Reichenstrasse, the Cremon, the Ro- 
 dingsmarkt and Katharinenstrasse (all near the 
 
 175
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Binnenhafen*), the town has a modern appearance. 
 A fire that rendered 5,160 families (20,000 individ- 
 uals) roofless, killed 39 persons (25 burned to death) 
 and injured 118 souls, that destroyed 1,749 houses, 
 102 stores and warehouses, 61 streets and 120 courts 
 and alleys, wiping out a quarter of the town, is worth 
 hearing about in detail. One of the spectators thus 
 described it: 
 
 " The fire began about one o'clock on Thursday, 
 May 5, and raged unceasingly until the following 
 Sunday at noon. It seems to have begun in a cigar 
 factory in Deich Street, on the north side of the 
 Binner Haven, and a heavy wind drove the flames 
 towards the part of the city crowded with people and 
 containing the chief public buildings. One of the 
 first to go was the Church of St. Nicholas, an im- 
 mense building of the twelfth century, with a lofty 
 square tower surmounted by a spire that reached a 
 height of 360 feet. 
 
 " When this spire began to burn its appearance 
 was that of a magnificent torch in the midst of a 
 wide-spreading sea of fire ; a sight terrible and sub- 
 lime; and as the green, red and yellow flames 
 climbed towards the pinnacle, every eye in Hamburg 
 was directed to the church, and all personal anxieties 
 were forgotten for the moment in the interest ex- 
 cited by the approaching catastrophe. That interest 
 was painfully increased when the chimes of the 
 tower began mournfully to perform its funeral dirge. 
 The last tones of the bells, untuned by the expansion 
 of the heat, came upon the ear as a cry of suffering, 
 
 176
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 and it was a relief to the spectators when it ceased. 
 The sheets of copper with which the sides of the 
 spire were plated were seen to peel off and, glowing 
 with a red heat, floated away in the air. Soon after 
 it fell with a tremendous crash to the ground. In 
 the morning divine service had been performed in 
 the church, in the evening it was a ruin. 
 
 " The wide gap made by blasting Streit's hotel 
 and the adjoining houses, assisted by a change of the 
 wind, prevented the flames extending to the New 
 Jungf ernstieg ; but the fire now began to rage on the 
 opposite side of the Alster, consisting of houses and 
 warehouses built to the water's edge. The Church 
 of St. Peter's, situated in that part of the old city, 
 and admired both for its antiquity and the chaste 
 simplicity of its architecture, was next threatened. 
 
 " Two hundred persons were unceasingly engaged 
 in defending it from the approaching conflagration. 
 Several houses were blasted about it, but under cir- 
 cumstances which allowed the engineers no hope of 
 success, and the cannon of the Hanoverian artillery 
 were fired against others, but with no useful result. 
 
 " During the night of Friday the heated wood- 
 work several times burst into flames, and although 
 as often extinguished, the heat became so intense, 
 that about nine in the morning it was necessary to 
 abandon the Church to its fate. A scene similar to 
 that of the burning of St. Nicholas was renewed; 
 again the green and yellow flames rose high above 
 the summit, the bells tolled their own departure, and, 
 when the steeple broke off from the tower, it buried 
 
 m
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 itself many feet in the earth from the violence of its 
 fall. 
 
 " On Saturday and Sunday morning the flames 
 were chiefly confined to the east bank of the Alster; 
 a densely populated district, which, consisting of 
 narrow streets, there were no available means of cut- 
 ting off the fire even with gunpowder (of which un- 
 limited supplies had now arrived), without blowing 
 up nearly as great a number of houses as the fire 
 itself was likely to destroy. The engineers, however, 
 did what they could by explosions, but nothing in 
 this quarter could check the conflagration which con- 
 tinued to rage until, reaching the Boulevard, it burnt 
 itself out." 
 
 Another eye-witness wrote: 
 
 " Upon the Old Jungfernstieg, separated by the 
 road from the houses, was now piled in hurried con- 
 fusion the costly furniture of the inhabitants; the 
 water was covered with barges and boats in which 
 they were endeavouring to save that and other 
 valuable property ; but the wind before mid-day had 
 increased to a perfect hurricane; the flames com- 
 municated themselves to this mass of furniture and 
 the whole was soon one long line of fire; even the 
 boats upon the Alster did not escape; several were 
 burnt with their contents to the water's edge. 
 Others, overloaded or unskilfully manned, were up- 
 set, and the surface of the water was soon strewed 
 with the wreck of furniture which had been de- 
 stroyed by the joint powers of two opposing elements. 
 As night a second time approached, the aspect from 
 
 178
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 the opposite bank was one of appalling magnificence. 
 Before us lay the Old Jungfernstieg, one unbroken 
 chain of fire; on the right it seemed to be on the 
 point of reaching the New Jungfernstieg, which 
 would have been the signal for the certain destruc- 
 tion of the newest and most beautiful district of the 
 town ; on the left it was advancing with rapid strides 
 to the old town, threatening the churches of St. 
 Jacob and St. Peter, the new school-house, a public 
 building which contains the large and very valuable 
 public library, and many other buildings. The 
 crashing of beams, the explosions of gunpowder, 
 which were continually resounding from every 
 quarter, the firing of cannon, shouting of men, the 
 cries and lamentations of women and children, all 
 served to heighten the horror and the absorbing in- 
 terest of the spectacle." 
 
 An old verse described the parish churches as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 Katherinen, de Finen, 
 
 Nicolai, de Riken, 
 
 St. Petri, desgliken, 
 
 Jakobi, de Sturen, 
 
 Michaelis, de Buren. 
 
 St. Nicholas was rebuilt after the fire of 1842 by 
 Sir Gilbert Scott, an English architect, in the ornate 
 Gothic style of the thirteenth century. It is 285 
 feet long, and the west tower, finished in 1874, is 485 
 feet high, one of the highest towers in Europe, rank- 
 ing next to Ulm (528 feet) ; Cologne (512 feet) and 
 Rouen (495 feet). St. Nicholas is beautifully 
 
 179
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 carved and filled within and without with sculptures 
 that perpetuate the memory of all those who worked 
 to found and spread the Christian religion. It has 
 also beautiful stained-glass windows, a fine organ 
 and a set of chimes. 
 
 The west front looks upon the Hopfen Markt 
 (the Hop Market), Hamburg's great fruit and 
 vegetable market. What a picture of variegated 
 color with its piles of fruits, flowers and vegetables 
 and constantly changing scenes of common life! 
 This market-scene, with its moving, chattering, 
 laughing and arguing throng of vendors and buyers, 
 with the beautiful tower of St. Nicholas rising above 
 the quiet background of warehouses and office build- 
 ings, produces a delightful impression. 
 
 An equally picturesque and even more character- 
 istic scene is afforded by the Messburg, on account 
 of its vicinity to the water. Here the fishermen can 
 come right into the market with their boats. The 
 forest of masts against the high gabled houses and 
 the maze of narrow streets gives to the market its 
 particular character. 
 
 The fish market in St. Pauli, held daily from five 
 o'clock in the morning till eight, is a sight the travel- 
 ler should never miss. South-east of St. Nicholas, 
 on the big Zoll Kanal, stands St. Katharine's, spared 
 by the fire of 1842. The church was built in the 
 Seventeenth Century; and contains a marble pulpit 
 of 1630, some ancient tombs and several valuable 
 old German paintings. 
 
 St. Peter's also stands nobly on its square near the 
 180
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 Exchange. The view from the Jungfernstieg up 
 the city's streets to the large reddish tower with the 
 green top is one of the most attractive to be found 
 in Hamburg. 
 
 The old church was burnt in the great Fire of 
 1842, but was rebuilt in the Gothic style of the 
 Fourteenth Century. 
 
 Opposite St. Peter's is the Johanneum, the mod- 
 ern house of an old college of the same name founded 
 in 1529. One wing contains the old city library, 
 with about 600,000 books and 5,000 MSS., includ- 
 ing rare Bibles, mediaeval works on theology and 
 Oriental MSS. of great value. In this building are 
 also housed the Natural History Museum and the 
 Museum of Hamburg Antiquities. 
 
 Just south of the Johanneum is the Fish-market; 
 and to the east, on 8teinstrasse, the Church of St. 
 James, erected in 1580-92. North of this church 
 is the Pferde MarTft, out of which leads Alsterthor. 
 Here stands the Thalia Theatre. 
 
 Going east from the Lombardsbriicke and pass- 
 ing the bronze monument to Schiller, we reach the 
 Kunsthalle on the Alsterhohe, built in 1867-69 and 
 enlarged in 1886. Here we shall find much to 
 enjoy, for there are no less than a thousand paint- 
 ings. In addition to modern French and German 
 works, the gallery contains, as is natural, fine works 
 of Hamburg artists of the past and present from the 
 fifteenth century to the present day; and, what is 
 uncommon to find on the Continent, a collection of 
 modern British paintings. The latter was gathered 
 
 181
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 by Mr. Schwabe, a Hamburg merchant, who lived 
 many years in London. The Dutch painters of the 
 seventeenth century are well represented. We are 
 now in the St. George quarter, where most of the 
 museums are situated; but before we visit these we 
 must look at the Hansa Fountain, erected in 1878 in 
 the Hansa Platz. This was designed by E. Peiffer 
 and is 56 feet high. 
 
 Near Liibeckerthor, we shall find the Botanic 
 Museum, containing woods, seeds, fruit and sea- 
 weeds. The other two museums are situated be- 
 tween the Steinthor and the Klosterthor. In the 
 Museum of Industrial Art the works of the Japanese 
 are especially well represented. In the Natural 
 History Museum, the animals, birds, insects and 
 creatures of the sea are beautifully mounted in 
 imitation of their natural surroundings and habita- 
 tions. There are also large collections of sea-shells 
 and minerals. 
 
 On the other side of the Lombardsbriicke the 
 Esplanade, with its double row of trees and monu- 
 ment to the soldiers of Hamburg who lost their lives 
 in the Franco-Prussian war in 187071, leads to the 
 Dammthor. Dammthorstrasse leads from Stephans- 
 Platz, where the Post Office with its tall tower at- 
 tracts our attention, to the Ganse Markt, in which 
 stands a fine statue of Lessing. In Dammthorstrasse 
 is the Stadt Theatre which seats 2,000 persons. 
 
 Just beyond the Dammthor, we find the Botanical 
 Gardens, which are especially famed for their water- 
 plants of all known varieties; and beyond them are 
 
 182
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 the Zoological Gardens, which are among the best in 
 Germany. 
 
 Kivalling the Zoological Gardens, however, is 
 Hagenbeck's Animal Collection in the Neue Pferde 
 Markt, which is known throughout the world. 
 
 Few towns have had so many and such severe 
 calamities as Hamburg ; and not taking into account 
 those of earlier periods, within the nineteenth cen- 
 tury alone she suffered the great fire of 1842 ; the 
 closing of the Customs; and the experiences of the 
 terrible cholera year of 1892 that necessitated a 
 sanitation of the greater part of the city. 
 
 From a description of this calamity we gather the 
 following interesting facts : 
 
 " A peculiar custom obtains in Hamburg, no men- 
 tion of which has heretofore been made in the stories 
 of the epidemic sent from here, and to this custom 
 may be attributed many of the cholera deaths that 
 have occurred here. As is well known the old town 
 of Hamburg is very low and is traversed by many 
 canals or fleets, as they are called here. These 
 fleets generally form what may be called back streets, 
 and they are bordered by warehouses, cellars and 
 the dwelling-houses of poor people. These fleets are 
 subject to the tides of the Elbe, and at certain times 
 they are quite dry. When they are in this condition 
 the Fleetenkiekers wander along the oozy channel 
 and pick up any articles that the water may have 
 deposited. As the tide rushes up the river from the 
 North Sea, the fleets are filled with water to a depth 
 of from fifteen to twenty feet. As soon as it is high 
 
 183
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 tide at Cuxhaven, three shots are fired from the 
 Stintfang at the harbor to warn the inhabitants along 
 the fleets, and if the progress of the tide up the river 
 gives indication of danger, three more shots are fired 
 to add emphasis to the warning. Then the people 
 who live along the lower levels make for higher 
 ground, often carrying their little property with 
 them. About the present time these lower levels are 
 often inundated by the tides for several days in 
 succession; but when the floods abate the people re- 
 turn to their oozy abodes. Now it is well known 
 that the water of the Elbe is impure and there are 
 many who believe that through drinking it cholera 
 is caused. With these people of the fleet, known as 
 Lud von de Wasserkrant, handling articles picked 
 from the canals and living in houses impregnated 
 with the filthy Elbe water, it is an easy matter for 
 the disease to obtain a foothold." 
 
 Those who love old Hamburg deplore the changes 
 that have had to be made for the sake of the new 
 railways, and the streets that are daily sacrificed to 
 make room for the broad new thoroughfares, and the 
 city railway that is being constructed partly above 
 and partly below the ground which has necessitated 
 excavations. Changes, too, have had to take place 
 in the harbor, for the basins completed at fabulous 
 expense have proved of late years too narrow for the 
 new boats. 
 
 Hamburg is, indeed, a very modern and up-to-date 
 city. In every direction electric cabs and taximeter 
 cabs, trams, steamboats and ferries flit hither and 
 
 184
 
 The City of Hamburg 
 
 and thither, making the streets and lakes very gay 
 and full of movement. The city itself is constantly 
 pressing outwards. Beyond rolls the sea where 
 there is room for all nations; but Hamburg is 
 cramped within and has no room to expand except 
 northwards and eastwards. Manufacture and ship- 
 ping are constantly increasing, for Germany does not 
 stand in the background of nations and Prussia has 
 purchased the island of Neuhof for a State Custom 
 House. On the south flows the Elbe ; and as Ham- 
 burg has long since touched Altona on the one side, 
 and on the other is connected house to house with 
 Wandsbeck, there is an unbroken sea of houses from 
 Wandsbeck to Altona-Ottensen. The districts that 
 allow the business man ready communication be- 
 tween his home and office are all occupied; and 
 Hamburg's own territory cannot satisfy the wish of 
 everybody to possess a country-seat. 
 
 The poorer people have to content themselves 
 within the boundaries of the city, while the wealthy 
 are building pretty villas and planting colonies on 
 the shores of the Ausser-Alster and in the open spaces 
 beyond the political boundaries. Many business 
 men have settled in Wandsbeck, a town in Holstein 
 about three miles from Hamburg on the northeast, 
 and in the attractive villa colonies of Othmarschen, 
 Flottbeck, Hoclikamp, Dockenhuden, and Blankenese 
 on the banks of the Elbe beyond Altona. 
 
 Wealthy Hamburgers also have beautiful gardens 
 and country-seats on the railways towards Liibeck 
 and Berlin, such as Altrahlstadt on the one hand and 
 
 185
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Tleiribeck and Friedrichsruh in the Sachsenwald, the 
 latter the home of Bismarck, where he died in 1898 
 and where he is buried. 
 
 Charming homes are also found in Ninedorf on 
 the north, Harburg in the south among the forest 
 hills, on the shores of the Baltic and also in the 
 Liineburger Heide. 
 
 Innumerable are the pleasure-resorts too. People 
 go to the Sachsenwald to enjoy the lovely beeches and 
 to Uhlenhorst on the Ausser-Alster which can be 
 reached by tram or steamer from the Jungfernstieg. 
 At Horn, three miles east of Hamburg, the annual 
 races are run, the German Derby. 
 
 Cuxhaven is not too far to attract those who love 
 sea-bathing; and from Cuxhaven excursions are 
 made to the island of Heligoland. 
 
 186
 
 THE CITY OF COPENHAGEN 
 
 THE ATHENS OF THE NORTH 
 
 COPENHAGEN, the centre of art, science and 
 letters on the Baltic shores, had its begin- 
 nings as a modest little fishing-village. It is first 
 mentioned in Danish history in 1027, when during 
 King Canute's absence in England the Kings of 
 Norway and Sweden attacked Denmark ; and then it 
 is merely called Haven. 
 
 About the middle of the twelfth century it was 
 still a little fishing-village when King Valdemar I. 
 gave it to Absalon, Bishop of Roskilde, also known 
 as Axel Hride. The Bishop almost immediately 
 built a castle or fortress on the site now occupied by 
 the Christiansborg Palace, which was called after 
 him Axel-huus. The settlement grew into a great 
 resort for merchants and soon became known as the 
 Merchants' Haven {Kjobmannshavn). 
 
 Bishop Absalon bestowed on the see of Roskilde 
 the castle, the town and the island of Amager; and 
 Bishop Erlandsen gave special rights and privileges 
 to this settlement, which were confirmed and in- 
 creased by King Eric Glypping in 1284. The death 
 of Valdemar II. was followed by a century of an- 
 archy; and his sons and grandsons nearly ruined the 
 
 m
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 kingdom that had once been so great His great- 
 grandson, Valdemar III., was successful in recover- 
 ing some of the lost possessions ; but Copenhagen had 
 to stand several attacks from jealous neighbors. On 
 Valdemar's death in 1375, his daughter Margaret 
 reigned first as regent for her son Olaf and then as 
 sole sovereign. Queen Margaret, called the " Semir- 
 amis of the North," was probably the best ruler 
 Denmark ever had. She soon united the crowns of 
 Denmark, Sweden and Norway, and endeavored to 
 keep them under one sceptre by the act known as the 
 Union of Calmar (1397), which was intended to 
 make the alliance permanent 
 
 Margaret's successor was her great-nephew Eric 
 of Pomerania, whose queen, Philippa, daughter of 
 Henry IV. of England, on one occasion, during 
 Eric's absence in Sweden, courageously defended 
 Copenhagen against the fleets of the Hanseatic 
 League. 
 
 Eric lost all that Queen Margaret had gained, as 
 also the allegiance of his subjects ; and ended his life 
 in obscurity. Various kings had tried to wrest 
 Copenhagen from the see of Koskilde ; and, in 1443, 
 the transference was made. Since that date Copen- 
 hagen has been a royal residence. 
 
 The throne of Denmark passed from Eric to 
 Christopher of Bavaria, his nephew, who had a short 
 reign. At his death, in 1448, the Danes selected 
 Christian of Oldenburg, a descendant, through the 
 maternal line, of Valdemar II. 
 
 It is interesting to note that the Oldenburg 
 188
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 dynasty was unbroken from Christian I. to the death 
 of Frederick VII. in 1863. Christian acquired the 
 Duchy of Holstein in 1460. Christian II. ex- 
 asperated the Swedes by the " Stockholm Blood 
 Bath " (see page 225), and by other acts of tyranny 
 lost his throne, and was imprisoned for life, while 
 his uncle Frederick I. reigned in his place. Sweden 
 broke away under Gustavus Vasa (see page 226) and 
 became a powerful country. 
 
 Christian I. and Christian II. cherished great 
 ambitions of making Copenhagen the great city of 
 the Baltic; and the city had to endure two terrible 
 sieges in the reign of the latter, in 1523-24 and 
 1535-36. The people suffered greatly. " They had 
 no eatables in the town, neither horses, nor dogs, 
 nor cats, nor crows, nor anything but the leaves of 
 the trees." The city was therefore starved into 
 surrender. 
 
 The greatest king of this dynasty was Christian 
 IV., who was wise, liberal and enlightened, but who 
 was so checked in every way by the powerful nobles 
 that he was little more than president of a body of 
 aristocrats. Copenhagen was, however, happy and 
 prosperous during his reign; for the king was not 
 only a warrior and statesman, but a patron of art 
 and learning, and a great builder. He improved the 
 city by fortifications and many fine buildings, in- 
 cluding the Exchange, and the Palace of Rosenborg, 
 and other characteristic edifices that give Copen- 
 hagen its individuality. He also founded the town, 
 Christianshavn on the island of Amager. 
 
 189
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 During the reign of the son of Christian IV., 
 ^Frederick III., the nobles were so lacking in patriot- 
 ism and force that Charles X. of Sweden was able to 
 wrest Denmark's provinces east of the Sound away 
 from her. Then it was that the people conferred 
 absolute sovereignty upon the King of Denmark and 
 his successors. 
 
 This was the turning-point for Copenhagen. 
 Thenceforth it became the centre of the nation's 
 life, art and learning. The new quarter Fredericks- 
 holm was incorporated at this time ; and the fortifica- 
 tions were extended. Christian V. (1670-1699)' 
 enlarged the Harbor, widened the streets, and en- 
 couraged the building of stone houses. 
 
 During the Eighteenth Century, Copenhagen suf- 
 fered great disasters. A fleet of English, Dutch and 
 Swedish ships bombarded it in 1700 ; it was visited 
 by a plague in 1711; and a great fire in 1728 re- 
 duced two-fifths of the town to ashes. Another ter- 
 rible fire occurred in 1795. 
 
 Owing to the neutral position Denmark occupied 
 during the great wars that swept over Europe to- 
 wards the close of the century Danish commerce and 
 shipping increased greatly. Crichton tells us that: 
 
 " This favorable state of things suffered a short 
 interruption by the hostilities commenced by Eng- 
 land in 1802, with a view to compelling Denmark to 
 secede from the league of the armed neutrality, 
 formed by neutral states for the protection of their 
 commerce. Then the famous battle of the 2d April, 
 1802, was fought in the roadstead of Copenhagen 
 
 190
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 between a division of the English fleet under BTelson 
 and the southern part of the Danish ' line of 
 defence/ a number of old ships' hulks, moored or 
 grounded on the shallow sands of Amager, while the 
 Danish fleet lay moored and unequipped in the 
 harbor." 
 
 The action lasted from ten o'clock in the morning 
 till two in the afternoon, and although the Danes 
 fought valiantly one vessel struck after another. 
 The loss of the British was reckoned at 1,200 and 
 the Danes 6,000. Nelson said to the Crown Prince's 
 aide-de-camp : " I have been in 105 engagements in 
 the course of my life; but that of to-day was the 
 most terrible of them all." 
 
 " A melancholy scene of misery and ruin now pre- 
 sented itself to the conquerors ; white flags were fly- 
 ing from the mastheads of the Danish ships and guns 
 of distress were occasionally discharged, while the 
 burning vessels, floating in the distance, threw a dis- 
 mal light, which, from being clear and serene, had 
 become suddenly overcast. The sea was covered 
 with English boats, generously rendering assistance 
 to those who were endeavoring to escape from the 
 flaming wrecks. In the capital every house was 
 filled with mourners; the streets were occupied with 
 funeral-trains attending the dead, or with weeping 
 friends conveying their wounded relatives back to 
 those hearths which they had so nobly defended. 
 Melancholy tributes were afterwards paid to the 
 brave men who had fallen in the conflict; a public 
 mausoleum was erected on the spot where the slain 
 
 191
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 liad been interred, and a monument was raised in 
 the principal church in the city. 
 
 " When Nelson got permission to land, and 
 went on shore attended by Captains Hardy and 
 Fremantle to adjust terms of conciliation he was re- 
 ceived by the generous citizens without a murmur, 
 and treated by the accomplished prince with every 
 mark of respect The conduct of the people was 
 such as became a gallant nation, depressed but not 
 subdued by misfortune." * 
 
 The second war with England of 1807 was under- 
 taken because England, having heard that Napoleon 
 was about to attack Denmark in order to capture her 
 fleet, decided to do this for herself and frustrate his 
 plans; consequently the British fleet with 20,000 
 men appeared at Copenhagen and demanded sur- 
 render. Copenhagen attempted to defend herself, 
 but after a bombardment of three days yielded ; and 
 the English sailed away with the remaining Danish 
 boats. A great part of Copenhagen was destroyed. 
 
 In 1814, Denmark lost Norway; and, in 1864, 
 Slesvig and Holstein. 
 
 In 1867, the fortifications of Copenhagen were 
 demolished and the ramparts levelled; and about 
 1870 Copenhagen began to be a modern city with 
 wide boulevards, quays and splendid docks. 
 
 Copenhagen may be said to begin where the little 
 
 town of Elsinore ends, where the waves of the Catte- 
 
 gat pass into the sheltered waters of the Sound. 
 
 Elsinore is an ancient commercial town, chiefly in- 
 
 *Crichton, "Scandinavia." 
 
 192
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 teresting on account of the old Castle of Kroriborg, 
 with its picturesque turrets, gables and spires, dating 
 from the time of Christian IV., who in 1635-37 re- 
 stored the Castle, originally built by Frederick II. 
 in 157475, and which had been nearly destroyed 
 by fire. From its ramparts salutes are fired to greet 
 incoming vessels ; for the Castle is now chiefly used 
 as barracks. 
 
 " It is as though Denmark's history stood there," 
 says a Danish writer, " keeping watch at the outer- 
 most point on the outermost redoubt. Traditions 
 from the earliest times cling to these old walls. 
 Down in the deepest vault, behind walls which none 
 can penetrate, sits Holger Danske, the nation's hero. 
 He has slept for a thousand years. His white beard 
 has grown fast to the stone table while he slept. But 
 when the last die is to be cast to decide the fate of 
 Denmark and they have played high and they have 
 played long for the land of the Danes then the hero 
 will awake, tear his white beard from the table and 
 grip his sword for the final struggle. 
 
 " Far down below Holger Danske waits his day ; 
 Hamlet's shade wanders on the ramparts above." 
 
 " Kronborg possesses one great advantage over the 
 other Danish buildings of the Sixteenth Century," 
 wrote Horace Marryat. " It is built of fine sand- 
 stone, the only specimen in the kingdom. Though 
 quadrangular and four-towered, it is relieved from 
 all appearance of formality by the quaint onion 
 pagoda-like minarets by which its towers are sur- 
 mounted. The lofty clock turret, too, rising from 
 
 193
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the centre higher than those which flank the corners, 
 adds to the dignity of the building. Few castles in 
 the space of three hundred years have suffered so 
 little from modern additions and improvement. 
 
 " You enter the interior court through a richly 
 ornamented gateway, guarded by statues and over- 
 hung by a beautiful oriel window, enriched with the 
 arms and ciphers of the founder. Opposite to you 
 stands the chapel (the works of Rubens have long 
 since disappeared) ; the fittings of the time of 
 Christian IV. have been restored, but not too care- 
 fully. It is curious to trace, as you can by the tur- 
 ret to the right of the clock, the gradual transition 
 from the Gothic to the Renaissance. The whole of 
 the ornaments are of the latter period; but there is 
 still occasionally a sort of feeling as if the architect 
 was not quite decided in his views : whether he was 
 or not, Kronborg is one of the most perfect specimens 
 of its era unspoiled, untouched and unrepaired to 
 be met with in Europe. It has long ceased to be 
 occupied as a royal residence. One side is alone re- 
 served for the use of His Majesty; the rest is oc- 
 cupied by the General Commandant, the officers and 
 the garrison. Above the entrance of the clock-tower, 
 surrounding the ornaments, appears the head of a 
 huge mastiff, holding in his fore-paws a heart-like 
 shield, with the cypher of Frederick II., and below 
 the favorite device of the King, " T. I. W. B. 
 Treu ist Wilt Bratt." The same Wildbratt, whose 
 portrait is above, was the favorite of King Frederick, 
 and bit everybody save his royal master. Over the 
 
 194
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 other door appears the device of his good queen 
 good Queen Sophia of Mecklenburg ' Heine Hoff- 
 nung zu Gott allein' (My hope is in God alone). 
 "Within the dungeon of the corner tower, that of the 
 Restoration, adjoining the wine-cellars of Christian 
 IV., where a jolly fat tun carved in stone above the 
 entrance leaves no doubt of its identity, was situated 
 the torture-chamber in days gone by. 
 
 After the peace of 1659, when Skaane was lost to 
 Denmark forever, the windows of Kronborg Castle, 
 which commanded a view of the Swedish coast, were 
 walled up, to exclude a sight which caused so many 
 heart-burnings. " 
 
 Here, too, are shown the apartments of the young 
 Queen of Christian VII. Caroline Matilda, who 
 was brought here from Fredricksberg in the middle 
 of the night and expected to be executed. From the 
 octagonal closet of the lighthouse tower she strained 
 her eyes day by day to watch for the coming of the 
 English fleet that she heard was on its way to rescue 
 her. Her son Frederick VI. never visited Elsinore 
 the memory of his mother's imprisonment was 
 too painful ; and so the royal apartments were aban- 
 doned as a Court residence and all the furniture re- 
 moved or destroyed. 
 
 All associations, however, pale before the romantic 
 story of Hamlet. The whole Castle of Kronborg 
 seems to belong to him. The Flag Battery, to the 
 left of the west entrance, is " the platform before the 
 Castle," where Shakespeare makes Hamlet watch 
 in company with his friends, Horatio and Marccllus, 
 
 195
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 for his father's Ghost in the "nipping and eager 
 air " of midnight, while the sounds of revelry were 
 heard from within the Castle, where the King kept 
 wassail. 
 
 In the park of Marienlysi Castle, not far away, 
 Hamlet's tomb, overshadowed by beeches, is shown to 
 the traveller, who may believe it or not, as he pleases. 
 From the north-west tower an extensive view may be 
 had of the wooded coast of Zealand and of the lovely 
 Sound from Kullen to the island of Hveen. 
 
 " The Sound ! " exclaims a Danish writer, Her- 
 man Bang. " There is no Dane but yearns for it, 
 and no stranger who, once having seen it, ever for- 
 gets it. See it on a day in July, when the water is 
 violet-blue, and the woods on the coast along which 
 we are sailing have turned dark, and the villas are 
 lost among gardens thick with roses, and the sky is 
 like a deep still ocean. Or see it towards autumn 
 when the billows are dark and tipped with white, 
 when the woods look grave, as though they were 
 guarding dark secrets, and the sky is like glass. 
 Every outline is sharp as though it were lighted up. 
 The Hermitage in the midst of its beautiful plain, 
 the houses on the slopes of Skodsborg, and, a long 
 way further down, the massive dome of the Marble 
 Church towering above everything else these all 
 shine ; while the Sound itself is dark and the woods 
 are as solemn as the portals of a church. 
 
 " Then the Sound is beautiful. 
 
 " Then one understands why all Danes long to 
 dwell here ; why the capital of Denmark was founded 
 
 196
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 here ; and why all her poets have sung the praises of 
 these waters and this coast." 
 
 When Kronborg was built, both sides of the Sound 
 belonged to Denmark. All ships were obliged to 
 stop at Elsinore to pay the Sound duties. These 
 were removed in 1857 ; and in consequence Elsinore 
 is now little more than a summer village. 
 
 " Imagine yourself on the deck of a ship sailing 
 past Kronborg, past Elsinore, into the Sound, along 
 the coast of Zealand, past country house after coun- 
 try house, village after village. Behind them all 
 stretches the forest mighty, luxuriant, radiant and 
 high, as only a beech forest can be the belt of the 
 Sound. Go ashore where you will. Land, if you 
 choose, at Rungsted. You have merely to cross a 
 road, and you are in the forest. !Nbt a heavy forest 
 of oaks, not a forest of pines in whose stillness the 
 birds dare not sing, but a beech forest where it is 
 light in spite of the massive tree tops, mild in spite 
 of the giant trunks and full of song; for in the 
 beech-wood all the birds sing. 
 
 " We proceed further along the coast of Zealand, 
 still from the deck of the steamer seeing country 
 house after country house like a fringe. Now they 
 group themselves once more into a town. It is 
 Vedbcek. Those white banks, those high houses, 
 those numerous verandahs that is Skodsborg, now 
 perhaps the most renowned of all the beautiful places 
 along the Sound. Elsinore is the Past, Skodsborg 
 is the Present of this coast In front of the slope, 
 the great expanse of blue water spreads itself out 
 
 197
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 with the sky for its border. From the midst of all 
 this summer blue a long way out white banks rise. 
 That is the island of Hveen where Denmark's great 
 son, Tycho Brahe, the astronomer, erected his 
 Uranienborg." 
 
 The villas of Skodsborg, the country homes of 
 Copenhagen's wealthy citizens, are embowered in 
 flowers and hedges of wild roses. Next come the 
 villages of Taarbcek and Klampeiiborg, on the edge 
 of a lovely Deer Park, Dyrehaven, in which stands 
 the old royal hunting-lodge, " The Hermitage." 
 This was built by Christian VI. in 1736 ; but is now 
 turned into a restaurant. It stands on a little rising 
 of the ground and overlooks the plain that slopes 
 towards the glittering Sound. The Danish races are 
 run here in summer, and for a few days the place is 
 very gay with sportsmen from Sweden, Norway, 
 Denmark and Germany. 
 
 Though the days of royal hunting are over, the 
 forest is one enormous preserve fenced in with 
 hedges for many miles, and is entered through large 
 gates painted red and bearing the royal diadem. 
 The enormous herd of deer, with its celebrated white 
 stags, belongs to the King, and none but the King's 
 keeper is allowed to kill them. 
 
 As we approach Copenhagen, the fortress of 
 Trekoner, with its cannon on the ramparts, marks 
 the division between the outer and inner roadsteads. 
 In the latter, royal yachts are often lying at anchor. 
 First, we notice the great Free Port of Copenhagen, 
 a masterpiece of engineering, consisting of land re- 
 
 198
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 claimed from the sea and converted into docks and 
 quays in 18931894. Ships and steamers ply be- 
 tween it and the old Harbour, at the entrance 
 of which is situated the Custom House (Toldbod). 
 A beautiful promenade, the Langelinie , bordered 
 with fine old trees, delights the eye, which also notes 
 the many pleasure boats of all descriptions that lie 
 in a small protected harbor at this point; for the 
 boat and yacht clubs of Copenhagen have their head- 
 quarters here. Ship yards, granaries, warehouses, 
 the royal dock yard, training ships and the docks of 
 the Thingvalla Line that trades with New York, are 
 passed, as well as Amalienborg, the royal residence. 
 The dome that shines in the sunlight above the town 
 is Frederick Church. Just above a bridge, Knip- 
 pelsbro, which connects Copenhagen with the old 
 suburb of Christianshavn, on the island of Amager, 
 our boat enters the canal that surrounds the island 
 of Slotsholmen. We pass the fish-market on Gammel 
 Strand and arrive at the harbour, Kalvebodstrand, 
 with the suburb of Vesterbro in the distance, and in 
 front of us an extensive view of the Baltic. 
 
 Copenhagen, " the Merchants' Haven," is situated 
 on the island, Zealand, in the Sound, which is here 
 about fifteen miles wide, and the island of Amager, 
 or Amok, which is separated from Zealand by a nar- 
 row arm of the Baltic which forms a splendid har- 
 bor. The city proper is on Zealand and the town on 
 Amager is known as Christianshavn and these are 
 connected by the bridges called Langebro and Knip- 
 pelsbro. 
 
 199
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 The island of Amager is the nursery garden of 
 Copenhagen, and upon it dwell descendants of the 
 Dutch colonists who settled here in 1516, and who 
 have preserved their national costumes, manners and 
 customs. 
 
 In all European cities, there is one principal 
 square around which life concentrates and circulates. 
 In Copenhagen, it is Kongens Nytorv (the King's 
 New Market), an irregular space in the very heart 
 of the old city, the centre of which is adorned with 
 * an equestrian statue of Christian V., popularly 
 called Hesten (the Horse). From Kongens ISTytorv 
 thirteen streets radiate in various directions; and 
 around the square are situated many fashionable 
 iotels, cafes, restaurants, business offices, the Royal 
 Theatre and Charlottenborg. The latter was built in 
 1672, and purchased in 1700 by Queen Charlotte 
 Amelia for a residence. Since 1754, it has been the 
 home of the Royal Academy of Art. Beyond Char- 
 lottenborg, the Nyhavn Kanal, an arm of the Har- 
 bour, bordered with quaint gabled houses, takes the 
 visitor into a bygone period. It is one of the most 
 interesting spots in the city. 
 
 Bredgade, leading north out of Kongens !N"ytorv, 
 is the most fashionable street for residences. On the 
 right and fronting Amalienborg-Plads, or Square, is 
 Amalienborg, the residence of the King of Denmark. 
 On Bredgade stand many other palaces, and town 
 houses of royal and noble personages. We are now 
 in the very centre of elegance and fashion. 
 
 The Amalienborg-Plads is as handsome and aris- 
 200
 
 Copyright, 1910. by Underwood & Underwood. 
 
 PALACE SQUARE, COPENHAGEN
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 tocratic a square as may be found in Europe. An 
 equestrian statue of Frederick Y. ornaments the 
 centre; and not far away rises the noble dome of 
 [Frederick's Church. Four similar rococo buildings 
 enclose the Square originally intended for separate 
 palaces, but now together form the Royal Palace, 
 Amalienborg. The King lives in the building on 
 the south-east, originally built for Count Moltke ; the 
 Coronation and other State rooms are in the build- 
 ing on the south-west; the Crown Prince lives in the 
 north-east; and the Minister of the Exterior in the 
 north-west. 
 
 A visitor in 1908 says : 
 
 " Here tourists congregate at the hour of 12 A. M., 
 to see the guard changed. On a bright day, when 
 this circle of rococo palaces has a vivid blue sky as 
 a background, Amalienborg is worth a visit. Its 
 charm lies in its air of apartness from the rest of 
 the world. It is like a palace in a fairy tale. The 
 long, narrow scarlet sentry-boxes at each corner look 
 hardly large enough to hold real soldiers. One finds 
 oneself wishing that a peacock would appear from 
 somewhere, with tail outspread, across the grey 
 courtyard. It is the one touch lacking to make 
 Amalienborg quite a fairy palace." 
 
 On Bredgade are the Surgeons' Hall, one of the 
 finest buildings in Copenhagen; King Frederick's 
 Hospital; the Houses of the Rigsdag, the Danish 
 Parliament; the Russian Church with its three gilt 
 onion-shaped cupolas; and the palace of Count 
 Schimmelmann, now the Koncert Palais. 
 
 201
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 From Bredgade, St. Annae-Plads, a wide avenue, 
 runs down to the harbor. The Amalie-Gade starts 
 from the St. Annae-Plads, and runs through the 
 Amalienborg-Plads in straight line to the Esplanade. 
 Bredgade, running parallel to Amalie-Gade, also 
 enters the Esplanade, with its pretty grounds, north 
 of which is the Citadel of Frederikshavn, surrounded 
 by a broad moat. On the right, and extending about 
 a mile north is the enchanting promenade, Lange- 
 linie. 
 
 P. C. V. Hansen, a Dane, exclaims with en- 
 thusiasm : 
 
 " "Not many towns can boast of its equal. The 
 water that washes against this promenade is not that 
 of a quiet lake; it is the salt water of the Sound, 
 where steamers, war-ships, moving, or at anchor, 
 take the place of swans and small boats. The rising 
 road leading from the town to Langelinie passes be- 
 tween splendid beds of roses; from the top of the 
 rise there is a charming view. On the one side lies 
 the English Church of St. Albans, a beautiful Gothic 
 edifice with a shady avenue in front, and at the back 
 the old moat of the Kastel which reflects the slender 
 beauty of the building in its dark waters. Beyond 
 the moat is the rampart of the Kastel, with its 
 splendid leafy old trees. On the other side, beyond 
 the promenade, one sees the custom-house and the 
 harbor, and looking townwards, the royal residential 
 palace of Amalienborg is visible. 
 
 " On Langelinie romance and reality meet. On 
 the left hand is the rampart of the Kastel, a bit of 
 
 202
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 genuine old romance which carries our thoughts far 
 away from the modern surroundings. On the right 
 hand we have the roadstead, alive with ships, and the 
 large ship-yards with their ceaseless noise of ham- 
 mering a picture of bustling modern life. As we 
 proceed, the Free Port comes in view ; little by little 
 the ramparts disappear, hidden behind the ware- 
 houses the reality of life has vanquished romance. 
 
 " The last portion of the promenade, a straight, 
 narrow line passes over the roofs of some of the ware- 
 houses of the Free Port. To the one side, far be- 
 low, lies the huge Free Port, with its stirring life; 
 and to the other, just below the promenade, is the 
 Sound with the naval fortifications, and on the 
 horizon the island of Hveen and the coast of Sweden. 
 It is fresh and bracing out here, and the view from 
 the lighthouse at the end of the walk is magnificent. 
 
 " Langelinie should be seen on a Sunday morning 
 in spring, when the whole of Copenhagen turns out 
 to show off the new toilettes, when there is scarcely 
 elbow room for walkers, when the drive is crowded 
 with smart carriages, when there is not an empty 
 chair in the restaurant pavilion, and every seat 
 along the promenade is occupied. But it is at its 
 very best on a summer evening, when the noise from 
 the Free Port and the ship-yards has subsided, when 
 the waves of the Sound are at rest, and the dark 
 forms of the ships stand out in silhouette against the 
 starry night sky. Then a walk along Langelinie is 
 a poem a poem set to music by the nightingale in 
 the trees of the old ramparts, or the ship's boy with 
 
 203
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 his melancholy concertina on some vessel in the 
 roads." 
 
 Leading west from Kongens Xytorv, the wide 
 boulevard called Gothers-Gade, takes us to the Botan- 
 ical Gardens, laid out in 1871-1874 on the site of 
 the old ramparts. On the way, we pass the Palace 
 of Rosenborg and its famous grounds. 
 
 This lovely park, called the King's Garden, was 
 laid out at the beginning of the Seventeenth Century 
 by Christian IV. and has all the charm of antiquity. 
 The fountain in the centre daily attracts the chil- 
 dren and nursemaids of Copenhagen. Avenues of 
 old trees, beautiful flower beds and a few old pavil- 
 ions and statues form other attractions. Here is 
 the famous statue of Hans Christian Andersen, 
 seated, and supposed to be telling a fairy-tale. 
 
 Rosenberg Castle is one of the most characteristic 
 buildings in Copenhagen. When Christian IV. 
 built it in 1604-1610, it was outside of the city, 
 and enclosed by the ramparts of Copenhagen, now 
 changed into boulevards. It was used as a royal 
 residence until the beginning of the Nineteenth Cen- 
 tury. The castle is built in the style of the Dutch 
 Renaissance and has several towers, the highest of 
 which is three hundred feet and ends in three grad- 
 uated cupolas, or lanterns, composed of open-work 
 arches and placed one above the other. Since the 
 time of King Frederick III. (1648-1670), Rosen- 
 borg has been used as a storehouse for the treasures 
 of the royal family robes, jewels, weapons, and 
 other valuables. The collection was increased from 
 
 204
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 other royal palaces and turned into a museum in 
 1863. The rooms have been arranged and furnished 
 in various styles. 
 
 " In passing through the castle," writes P. Brock, 
 " we get a glimpse of the successive periods of culture 
 of the last three centuries, and of the history of 
 Denmark at those periods. The Danish national 
 song, " King Christian stood by the lofty mast," 
 which celebrates the naval battle of Fehmern in the 
 Baltic July 1, 1644, in which Christian IV. was 
 wounded, is illustrated in the museum by such na- 
 tional relics as pieces of the suit which he wore on 
 board the line-of-battle ship, The Trinity, when he 
 was wounded still stained with his blood and two 
 small gold enamelled hands, one holding a piece of 
 the Swedish iron cannon-ball, and the other a piece 
 of the Danish bronze cannon-ball by which his fore- 
 head and eye were struck. These were worn as ear- 
 pendants by one of his daughters in memory of the 
 battle. 
 
 " The Knights' Hall is very imposing ; its mag- 
 nificent arched stucco ceiling dates from the begin- 
 ning of the Eighteenth Century; the twelve large 
 pieces of tapestry on the walls, representing the most 
 important events of the Scanian war (1675-1679), 
 were woven in the manufactory of the Dutchman, 
 Bernt van der Eichen, in Denmark, towards the end 
 of the Seventeenth Century. In front of the great 
 fireplace at the northern end of the hall is a velvet 
 canopy, underneath which are the coronation chairs 
 of the king and queen; the king's is made of nar- 
 
 205
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 whal-horn and adorned with eight allegorical figures ; 
 the queen's is covered with solid silver and adorned 
 with two figures which represent the Fear of God and 
 Charity. Before the coronation chairs stand three 
 silver lions, representing the Sound, the Great Belt 
 and the Little Belt. At the opposite end of the hall 
 is the royal silver-gilt baptismal font, which is still 
 used. Two tower rooms, adjoining the Knights' 
 Hall, contain fine collections of very rare old Vene- 
 tian glass, and of Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Dres- 
 den, French, Swedish and Danish porcelain." 
 
 In Rosenborg are also exhibited specimens of the 
 insignia of the Order of the Elephant, the highest 
 Danish order, founded in 1457 and renewed in 
 1693 ; and the mysterious Oldenburg Horn of 1474. 
 
 A legend says that one day in 989, when Count 
 Otto I. of Oldenburg was hunting in the forest, a 
 lovely fairy appeared before him with this drinking- 
 horn. She promised him every fortune if he 
 emptied it and every misfortune if he refused to do 
 so. The knight threw away the contents and kept the 
 horn, notwithstanding the fairy's entreaties to give 
 it back to her. It is a pity to spoil such a pretty 
 story, but the truth is that the Oldenburg Horn was 
 made by German artists for Christian I. of Denmark 
 in 1479 when he visited Cologne to reconcile Charles 
 the Bold, Duke of Burgundy and the Emperor Fred- 
 erick ILL It is made of silver, and is richly gilt 
 and ornamented with coats-of-arms of Denmark, the 
 Empire and Burgundy, and other devices illustrating 
 King Christian's mission. If this had been success- 
 
 206
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 ftil, his intention was to present it to the Chapel of 
 the Holy Kings in the Cologne Cathedral; but the 
 king being unsuccessful, he kept the treasure. The 
 Oldenburg Horn remained in the family castle of 
 Oldenburg for two hundred years and was subse- 
 quently brought to Copenhagen. 
 
 There are many other splendid gold and silver 
 drinking-horns of various periods and a valued relic 
 of the days of Christian V., the Wismar Cup of 
 beautifully worked crystal. In Kosenborg is also 
 the fine collection of Venetian glass brought home 
 from Italy by Frederick IV. perhaps the finest of 
 its kind in existence; and there is also a wonderful 
 collection of porcelain, particularly of old Dresden 
 and blue Sevres. 
 
 Rosenborg faces a wide boulevard, Ostervolds- 
 Gade on which stands the Observatory with a statue 
 of the great Danish astronomer, Tycho Brahe, in 
 front; and a little farther away the Art Museum. 
 Ostervolds-Gade continues on the north until it 
 reaches the Citadel. 
 
 Going south its continuation Norrevolgade leads 
 past Orsted Park, the most ornamental of Copen- 
 hagen's five parks. The landscape gardener has 
 done his best here, having arranged beautiful vistas, 
 artistically composed clumps of trees and shrubs, 
 lawns with brilliant flower beds, and lakes on which 
 swans are seen in great numbers. The park is also 
 famous for its collection of bronze statues, many of 
 which are copies of famous Greek sculpture from 
 the Vatican, the Louvre, Florence and Naples. 
 
 207
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 There is also a bronze statue of the famous Dane, 
 Hans Christian Orsted, for whom the park was 
 named, famous for his discoveries in electricity. 
 
 Between the old town and the suburbs, three con- 
 tinuous lakes form a sort of boundary, and their 
 banks are dotted with many attractive villas. On 
 the town side, there is a wide promenade with trees 
 and seats by the edge of the water on which in- 
 numerable swans float in the spring and summer. 
 The lakes are usually filled with pleasure boats, and 
 several bridges cross the lakes into the populous 
 suburb of Norrebro. On Queen Louise's Bridge a 
 continuous stream of carriages, wagons, omnibuses, 
 bicycles, electric cars and foot-passengers makes this 
 one of the best spots to study the street life of Copen- 
 hagen. From Queen Louise's Bridge Gothers-Gade 
 leads without a turn to Kongens Nytorv. 
 
 On the west of Kongens Nytorv runs Copen- 
 hagen's most fashionable promenade Oster Gade, 
 also called the Stroget, or Strogtid, always thronged 
 with people, but gayest in the afternoon from two to 
 four. At the junction of Oster Gade and Amager- 
 torv (which is really a continuation of that street), 
 is a square, or open space, called Hojbro-Plads, also 
 a centre of busy life. 
 
 " This thoroughfare is only just wide enough to 
 allow the red omnibuses, which ply up and down it 
 between Kongens Nytorv and the Raadhuis-Plads, to 
 pass each other. The trams which connect these two 
 squares have to go round over Slotsholmen. Yet, in 
 spite of its narrowness, this is the favorite promenade 
 
 208
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 of the citizens of Copenhagen, who may have walked 
 up and down here between the shore with its market 
 and the Frue KirTce above, before the days of Absa- 
 lon. Here is the fashionable promenade during 
 certain hours of the day, and here are the best shops, 
 amongst them the emporium for the famous Royal 
 Danish Porcelain. An astonishing number are de- 
 voted to fancy goods. If presents are weighing on 
 our travellers' minds and on what travellers are 
 they not a visit to one of these shops will remove 
 the load without necessarily lightening the purses or 
 filling up their boxes to any alarming extent. For 
 here are brooches, miniature flags, Finnish spoons, 
 leather goods and silver goods of all kinds, and pins 
 shamrock-headed, mistletoe-headed, flag-headed, 
 snake-headed pins, all small, almost all inexpensive, 
 and, best of all from the traveller's point of view, 
 neither to be bought nor priced in our own islands. 
 In spite of the fascinating fancy-shops a walk 
 through this busy thoroughfare is not an unmixed 
 pleasure. The Danes have a curious habit of 
 jostling one another, and they do not spare the pass- 
 ing traveller." * 
 
 From Amagertorv, passing down Vimmelskaftet 
 we come to Gammeltorv and Nytorv (the Old and 
 !N"ew Market) where stand some solid old mercantile 
 houses, and the Old Town Hall, not so very old 
 after all, as it was only erected in 18051815. In 
 the Gammeltorv is a fountain, which on the birth- 
 days of the King and Queen, according to an old 
 *F. M. Butlin. 
 209
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 custom, throws up golden balls. In the vicinity are 
 the University; the University Library, with its 
 great treasures, including many Persian and Indian 
 MSS. ; the Church of the Trinity ; and the Church of 
 Our Lady, the Metropolitan Church of Denmark. 
 
 Everybody goes to see the Church of the Trinity, 
 on account of its Round Tower (116 feet high). 
 This famous tower was built by Christian IV. for 
 an observatory, and was used for this purpose for 
 200 years. It is composed of two hollow cylinders 
 between which winds a spiral inclined plane from 
 the street to the summit, and of such easy ascent that 
 the Empress Catherine of Russia ascended it in 
 1716, in a coach and four, preceded by her husband, 
 Peter the Great, on horseback. There is a perfect 
 panoramic view of the city to be had from the plat- 
 form at the top. 
 
 The Church of Our Lady also deserves a visit 
 The simple structure built in 1811-1820 to replace 
 the magnificent Frue Kirke with its spire 385 
 high, destroyed by the English in 1807, is heavy and 
 bare in style. The chief entrance is a Doric portal 
 with six columns. The church is a kind of basilica 
 and is lighted from above ; and the light falls on grey 
 walls and columns without any colored decorations. 
 Visitors are attracted here especially to see the 
 statues designed and partly made by Thorvaldsen. 
 [From this point we can take another busy street, 
 Kjobmager Gade, if we like, back to Hojbro Plads. 
 
 From the Gammeltorv, Frederiksberg Gade will 
 take us to another open space, the Raadhuis-Plads. 
 
 210
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 Tivoli is one of the institutions of Copenhagen. 
 It was established in 1843 in grounds that originally 
 formed part of the fortifications. Trees, lawns, 
 shrubs, flower-beds, a large lake and rural walks 
 render Tivoli a place of beauty; and restaurants, 
 cafes, concert halls, orchestras, variety shows, panto- 
 mimes, an open-air theatre, acrobats, jugglers, rope- 
 dancers, clowns, athletes, balloon ascensions, illumi- 
 nations and fireworks contribute to its popularity. 
 A son of Copenhagen, Albert Gnudzmann, informs 
 us that " Tivoli is resorted to by persons of all ranks 
 and of all ages. The bearers of the most honored 
 names among the aristocracy and the upper middle 
 class are met side by side with workmen and peasants 
 from Zealand and the south of Sweden; here come 
 solitary old people and children who have scarcely 
 learned to walk, the families of sedate citizens and 
 careless students, parents with their children, and 
 young men with their sweethearts. And Tivoli is 
 a great cornucopia which offers something to each 
 one. There is high art and juggling; there is the 
 peaceful idyll and the brilliant festival. Its pro- 
 gramme is a gamut of the most varied amusements, 
 ranging from roundabouts and swings, shooting- 
 galleries and trials of strength to performances by 
 the most renowned artists. 
 
 "At four o'clock, the cannon salute announces 
 that Tivoli's variegated pleasures are to begin. 
 During the next few hours people stream in thou- 
 sands through the stately portal an expectant 
 crowd, dressed in its Sunday best, and conversing in 
 
 211
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 foreign tongues as well as in the dialects of all 
 parts of the country. Sometimes there is a crush 
 outside, but, once in, the stream divides itself and 
 spreads over the vast grounds. 
 
 " On gala evenings, it is perhaps finest by the lake, 
 bordered with thousands of lamps, which are mir- 
 rored on its still surface. The crowd promenades in 
 ceaseless march round its margin, and on the water 
 the regular stroke of the oars is heard. Boats glide 
 continually to and fro, swarming round a full-rigged 
 frigate which lies moored in the middle of the lake. 
 This frigate is an exact copy of King Christian 
 IV. 's battle ship Trefoldigheden (The Trinity) ; but 
 accommodates in its cabin what its venerable exterior 
 would never suggest a variety entertainment. This 
 is of a comparatively primitive type, and cannot 
 compete with its distinguished colleague, the Arena 
 Theatre, on the other side of the lake." 
 
 Let us now see what a traveller in 1909, F. M. 
 Butlin, has to say: 
 
 " It is only in the evening that the Tivoli be- 
 comes itself. On holidays and anniversaries of 
 which the most important is its own birthday, when 
 the gardens are illuminated with thousands of fairy 
 lamps, which outline the slender spires of the con- 
 cert hall, turning it into a veritable fairy palace, 
 with the many-colored waters of the fountain as a 
 fitting foreground ; when the dark groves are lighted 
 up with vistas of many-colored arches, then is the 
 time to visit the Tivoli. Not far from the entrance, 
 the ground slopes down to the quaint little panto- 
 
 212
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 mime theatre, where, in place of a curtain, a mag- 
 nificent peacock furls and unfurls its colossal tail. 
 Performances are given at intervals; pantomimes, 
 short ballets, living pictures and dumb shows of all 
 kinds. Between times a band performs in another 
 part of the grounds, but the musical centre is the 
 concert hall. Here the music is of the best. The 
 body of the hall is generally crowded, while above 
 in the broad galleries and out on the terrace, supper 
 is going on." 
 
 On Raadhuis-Plads, formerly the Straw market, 
 a busy centre for traffic between the inner town and 
 the suburb of Frederiksberg, stands the new Town 
 Hall built in the Dutch Renaissance style in 1892- 
 1900, and adorned with bronze figures in niches and 
 with tall towers at each corner. The street on the 
 west is Vesterbro Passage, the beginning of Vester- 
 bro-Gade, one of the liveliest streets of the city. 
 Here Tivoli lies to the south. In this district are 
 the Industrial Art Museum, and the New, or Ny- 
 Carlsberg Glyptothek. 
 
 Frederiksberg Allee f formerly the high road con- 
 necting Copenhagen with the village of Frederiks- 
 berg on the west (which is now, however, a part of 
 Copenhagen), is one of the finest avenues and most 
 frequented promenades. Frederiksberg Allee runs 
 out to Frederiksberg Have the great park, separated 
 from another park, the Sondermarlcen, by a high 
 road. These parks each cover an area of about 
 ninety acres and are favorite resorts especially on 
 Sundays for the working-people, tradesmen and 
 
 213
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 their families, who as a rule bring their baskets of 
 lunch and remain all day, lying on the grass or 
 playing games. 
 
 Frederiksberg Park is particularly interesting on 
 account of its old Castle, which is now a military 
 school. Here dwelt Queen Caroline Matilda, sister 
 of George III. of England, who was married to 
 Christian VII. at the age of fifteen; and here she 
 lived, after the King lost his mind, with the Prime 
 Minister Struensee, before she was taken to Kron- 
 berg. 
 
 The two old royal summer houses one built in 
 the Swiss style and the other in the Chinese are 
 still in existence and have a very picturesque effect 
 among the trees. Fine avenues of beech, lime and 
 chestnut trees lead to the Castle, near which is the 
 entrance to the Zoological Gardens. These are 
 among the best in Europe. Their specialty is a col- 
 lection of Arctic animals. From " Copenhagen 
 Hill " there is an extended view of the distant city. 
 
 The Sondermarken is like a wood; and parts of 
 it are quite wild, without roads or pathways. 
 
 In the grounds of the Ny-Carlsberg Brewery, on 
 the south of Sondermarken, stands the Old Grlypto- 
 ihek, containing a very complete collection of an- 
 cient Greek and Roman sculpture, the gift of Mr. 
 Carl Jacobsen, the brewer. The Ny-Carlsberg Glyp- 
 thothek, also the gift of Mr. Jacobsen, in quite a 
 different part of Copenhagen east of Tivoli is de- 
 voted to modern sculpture, particularly French and 
 Danish. 
 
 214
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 Going back now once more to Kongens Nytorv 
 and taking the Royal Theatre for a starting-point, 
 Holmen's Kanal will lead us to the Palace Bridge, 
 on the left of which stands Holmen's Kirche, built 
 in the Seventeenth Century, and well restored, con- 
 taining a fine carved altar and pulpit, and monu- 
 ments to naval heroes. 
 
 The Palace Bridge takes us directly to Christian- 
 borg on the island of Slotsholmen. This palace was 
 built by Christian VI. in 1733-1740, and having 
 been several times destroyed by fire, is practically a 
 ruin, only slightly rebuilt. In the grounds are 
 statues of Wisdom, Health, Justice and Strength, 
 by Thorvaldsen. The island of Slotsholmen, which 
 was fortified by Bishop Axel in 1168, forms a small 
 quarter of its own. In addition to the Palace the 
 chief buildings are the Royal Library, the Arsenal, 
 the Exchange and the Thorvaldsen Museum. 
 
 The Thorvaldsen Museum is one of the most pe- 
 culiar buildings in Copenhagen, and contains a com- 
 plete collection of this sculptor's works. It is situ- 
 ated on the quay, and was originally one of the 
 Royal stables, which was converted into a sombre 
 edifice, built in the style of an Etruscan tomb, and 
 serving the double purpose of museum and tomb; 
 for in an inner court, enclosed with high walls, 
 richly decorated in antique style, with palms, deli- 
 cate foliage, wreaths, vases and tripods, is the grave 
 of Thorvaldsen open to the sunshine, stars of 
 heaven and the rain and snow from the passing 
 clouds. 
 
 215
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Thorvaldsen was almost as great an idol with the 
 Danes as Hans Christian Andersen. He was the 
 son of an Icelander, a ship's carpenter and carver of 
 figure-heads for ships, who settled in Copenhagen. 
 The little boy, who had learned carving from his 
 father, entered the Academy of Art; and, in 1793, 
 he won the grand prize which enabled him to go 
 to Rome. There he lived for twenty-two years. He 
 returned to Copenhagen for a visit in 1819, and 
 went back to Rome, where he lived for nineteen more 
 years. In 1838, he went back to Copenhagen where 
 he died in 1844. 
 
 Thorvaldsen was the most celebrated sculptor of 
 his day and produced more than five hundred works, 
 all in the style of ancient Greek art. His fellow- 
 countrymen have honored his memory by this mu- 
 seum, which exhibits both his talent and his in- 
 dustry. 
 
 There are still several museums to visit. The 
 National Museum, housed in the old Prince's Pal- 
 ace, a royal residence built in 1744, was founded 
 in 1807, and now contains more than 70,000 objects. 
 The Danish collection consists of two divisions : the 
 Prehistoric from the Stone Age (about 3000 B.C. to 
 about 1000 A.D.), and the Historic Collection (from 
 the Middle Ages to about 1660). 
 
 The first is probably the most complete collection 
 of its kind in the world. Here you may see the 
 rude tools and weapons of bone and flint found in 
 mounds on the Danish coast that are known as 
 " Kitchen-middens," and there is also a fragment of 
 
 216
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 * 
 
 one of these mounds. Then there are objects of the 
 later Stone Age, daggers and spear-heads and am- 
 ber beads and other ornaments. The Bronze Age is 
 also fully represented. There a'fie/ hundreds of 
 swords and female ornaments, miniature boats made 
 of thin gold, a bronze-mounted chariot, splendid 
 shields and men's and -women's clothing found in 
 ancient oak coffins in Jutland. Particularly inter- 
 esting are the relics of the Viking period, consist- 
 ing of gold and silver drinking-horns, bracelets and 
 other ornaments, ring-money and horse-trappings. 
 In the modern rooms, we find furniture and tapes- 
 try from Kronborg Castle; and a superb carved bed 
 of state, dating from the time of Christian IV. An- 
 other department in this museum is the Ethnograph- 
 ical Collection, also one of the most complete in 
 Europe. Greenland and India are extremely well 
 represented. There is also a royal collection of coins 
 and medals, containing more than thirty thousand 
 articles. 
 
 The Art Museum, situated beyond the Botanical 
 Gardens and built in 1891-95, contains the national 
 collection of pictures, sculptures and engraving. The 
 gallery of old pictures, due largely to Frederick V., 
 has some splendid works. The Dutch and Flemish 
 painters are the best represented, particularly Kem- 
 brandt and his pupils Gerard Dow, Flinck, Bol, 
 Victoors, Koninck, Fabritius and Aert van Gelder. 
 
 The collection of Modern Paintings is devoted to 
 Danish Art from the end of the Eighteenth Century 
 to the present day. The Sculpture Gallery exhibits 
 
 217.
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the Danish sculptors from the time of Thorvaldsen 
 to the present. 
 
 The Danish Folkemuseum also is a highly inter- 
 esting collection that illustrates the development of 
 civilization. One section represents peasant life; 
 and separate rooms are fitted up in correct local 
 style. Several old wooden houses have been re- 
 moved here. There is also a collection of old Danish 
 silver, and another of ancient female ornaments 
 from Scania. 
 
 The Industrial Art Museum in the Vestre Boule- 
 vard exhibits the arts and crafts of Denmark. The 
 collection of china is of particular interest The 
 Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Manufactory, started 
 in 1775, naturally produced both useful and orna- 
 mented china in the Rococo style, which was going 
 out of fashion, and the Louis XVI., which was com- 
 ing into vogue. The so-called Muschel ware, the 
 blue pattern of which is an adaptation of a Japanese 
 flower design, is the most famous. Among the other 
 specimens of artistic work are carvings, furniture 
 and book bindings. 
 
 The Knippelsbro takes us across the harbor from 
 Slotsholmen to Christianshavn, built by Christian 
 IV., which still preserves its ancient character, and 
 may be said to form a link between Copenhagen and 
 the country. It still can show many fine old build- 
 ings, the homes of merchant princes. The Church 
 of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers KirJce) erected in 
 1749, deserves a visit. A winding staircase (397 
 steps) ascends to the top of the curious twisted spire 
 
 218
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 on which is a statue of the Kedeemer (popularly 
 called "Manden"). 
 
 In our walks around Copenhagen, you have doubt- 
 less noticed the peculiar architecture of which 
 pointed gables and twisted spires (the spire of the 
 Exchange is composed of four dragons whose tails 
 are interwoven) are the most striking features. 
 These fantastic buildings which look like the homes 
 of the kings and queens, giants and ogres of fairy- 
 tales, were, for the most part, built during the reign 
 of Denmark's most popular king, and it is very sin- 
 gular to note that while fires and sieges destroyed 
 much that was built after these, they spared his sum- 
 mer palace, Rosenborg, his Arsenal, his Round 
 Tower, the college he built for poor students, and 
 the Nyboder cottages he built for sailors. 
 
 " Two distinct building periods have given Copen- 
 hagen its architectural character. The first was 
 during the reign of the royal builder Christian IV., 
 in the first half of the Seventeenth Century. The 
 second was during the last half of the Eighteenth 
 Century, an intermediate stage between the Rococo 
 and the Empire style. The nobility and the great 
 merchants were then the ruling powers, and in Hars- 
 dorff Copenhagen possessed an architect whose gen- 
 ius and whose fine appreciation of antique art were 
 perhaps unequalled in Europe. To get an adequate 
 impression of Christian IV.'s. architecture an in- 
 dependent treatment of the German and Dutch Re- 
 naissance style one should first examine the grace- 
 ful Rosenborg Chateau with its slender towers, so 
 
 219
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 picturesquely placed amidst delightful gardens; and 
 then go on to Hojbro-Plads, where the peasant- 
 women from Amak, in their hereditary Dutch cos- 
 fume, sit selling fruit, vegetables and flowers, whilst 
 Holmen's Church in the background and the fine 
 Exchange with its fantastic dragon-spire, eloquently 
 witness to their royal builder's artistic taste and gift 
 of attracting the right men to his service." * 
 
 One of the striking features in Copenhagen is the 
 number of cafes on the streets, with their bright 
 awnings for shade and their screens of ivy. People 
 live out-of-doors during the brief and delightful 
 summer season, and in every garden of every house 
 you see a miniature summer house and a rustic table 
 and chairs. The afternoon bite is generally taken 
 out-of-doors. Hours are rather early, and the living 
 simple. Tea or coffee and bread is the breakfast, 
 and luncheon at noon the first real meal. The din- 
 ner hour is from three to four, except in houses of 
 fashion, where it begins at six or half -past six. The 
 King dines at seven; and the curtain of the Royal 
 Theatre rises at half-past seven. Copenhagen is a 
 city of flat dwellers; nearly every house in town, 
 and what is stranger still, every villa in the suburbs 
 is occupied by several families, and, moreover, the 
 people move frequently. There is also a regular 
 moving day, similar to New York's first of May. 
 
 Christmas is a great festival. On Christmas Eve 
 presents are exchanged and everybody has a tree. 
 Easter is also kept; and between Easter and Whit- 
 
 * Erik SchiSdte. 
 220
 
 The City of Copenhagen 
 
 suntide, the fourth Friday after Easter is called the 
 Great Day of Prayer (Store Bededag). On the 
 evening before the great feature of luncheon and 
 supper is Smbrrebrod, which some people wrongly 
 call a sandwich. It might be described as a sand- 
 wich without the top slice of bread. The slice of 
 bread is buttered and on it is laid a piece of meat, 
 lobster, salted herring, salmon, cheese, or hard- 
 boiled eggs. Another national dish is ollebrod, com- 
 posed of black bread and beer, cream and salt her- 
 rings and slices of raw onions. 
 
 On this day the Church bells ring, and everybody 
 promenades on the Langelinie, dressed in his or her 
 new spring clothes, as they used to walk on the ram- 
 parts in olden times. On this evening, the Danes 
 also eat a special bread called Varme Hveder. Whit 
 Monday is the greatest holiday in the year; and 
 Copenhagen Hill in Frederiks Park is thronged 
 with towns-people to see the sun rise and " see it 
 dance." With the exception of the peasants that 
 congregate in the fish and flower markets, there is 
 little to be seen in Copenhagen in the way of national 
 costume. 
 
 221
 
 THE CITY OF STOCKHOLM 
 THE VENICE OF THE NORTH 
 
 STOCKHOLM is one of the most beautiful 
 cities in Europe. It is situated at the eastern 
 outlet of Lake Malar, partly on the mainland and 
 partly on nine holms, or islands, in a small arm of 
 the Baltic called the Saltjo. Its beauty and its wa- 
 terways have given it the name of the " Venice of 
 the North," a sobriquet that it shares with Amster- 
 dam. 
 
 Stockholm is a comparatively young city, for Eu- 
 rope. The beautiful site was so exposed to pirates 
 that it was long neglected; and three inland cities 
 were capitals of great importance before Stockholm 
 came into existence. These were Bjorko (Isle of 
 Birches) on Lake Malar, destroyed before the Elev- 
 enth Century; Sigtuna, on an arm of Lake Malar, 
 destroyed in the Twelfth Century ; and Upsala. 
 
 Stockholm was founded in 1250 by Birgir Jarl, 
 the brother-in-law of King Eric the Halt. Birgir 
 built a strong fortress on the hill where the modern 
 Palace stands. This was surrounded by walls and 
 fortified towers. A Franciscan monastery was built 
 on the island of Ridderholm in the Thirteenth Cen- 
 tury; and, in the Fourteenth Century, the Hospital 
 
 222
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 of the Holy Ghost was erected on the island of 
 Helgeandsholm (Holy Ghost Island). 
 
 Birgir made Stockholm the strongest fortress in 
 the country. It \vas soon able to put an end to the 
 depredations of the Finnish pirates who had so long 
 desolated the Swedish coasts. The city rapidly grew 
 in size, and soon became commercially important. 
 The capture of Stockholm in the troubled times of 
 warring ambitions was nearly always the blow that 
 decided the fate of the whole kingdom. 
 
 In the Middle Ages, the city had close commer- 
 cial relations with the Hanseatic towns and was 
 dominated by their German merchants until the 
 political changes wrought by Gustavus Vasa, since 
 whose day the history of Stockholm is only the his- 
 tory of Sweden. 
 
 Stockholm has suffered terribly at times from fire 
 which spread rapidly owing to the fact that the 
 town was built of wood. The notable fires took 
 place in 1297, 1407, 1419, 1445, 1458, 1495, 1625, 
 1697, 1719, 1723, 1751, 1759, 1802, 1822, and 
 1857. It is, therefore, not surprising that few an- 
 cient buildings remain. 
 
 The city has also been a prey to siege, famine 
 and pestilence; and has been the scene of many 
 tragedies. When Margaret of Denmark was invited 
 by the nobles to accept the crown of Sweden and 
 King Albert was captured at the Battle of Falkoping, 
 Stockholm refused to submit, and the supporters of 
 Albert massacred the followers of Margaret in the 
 city. Stockholm then suffered a long siege, and held 
 
 223
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 out till 1395. The year 1397 saw Margaret's tri- 
 umphal entry into Stockholm. 
 
 Since the crown was not hereditary but elective, 
 Sweden suffered almost constantly during the Mid- 
 dle Ages through the wars of rival princes. It was 
 at the close of this period that the famous " Blood 
 Bath " occurred at Stockholm. 
 
 In fighting the invading Danes, Sten Sture was 
 mortally wounded at the battle of Bogesund (1520) ; 
 and was borne on a sledge over the frozen lakes to 
 Stockholm, where he died in a few days. His 
 widow, Christina Gyllenstierna, then excited the 
 men of Stockholm to resist, and attacked the Danish 
 forces. They kept the field, however, and Christian 
 II. of Denmark and JsTorway brought a big fleet to 
 the capital. For four months the brave woman held 
 the city; but she was compelled by famine and the 
 desertion of some of her followers to surrender to a 
 cruel and treacherous invader. 
 
 Christian II. was now crowned at Stockholm. 
 The solemnities were followed by festivals and tour- 
 naments that lasted three days ; and before they were 
 over, when Christian was seated on his throne in the 
 Knights' Hall, the Archbishop Gustavas Trolle, who 
 had been Sten Sture's enemy, entered at a late hour 
 and demanded justice against the followers of Sten 
 Sture, who had deposed him. Under pretence of 
 upholding the honor of the church, Christian or- 
 dered the execution of ninety-four persons, most of 
 whom were nobles, by which act he thought he would 
 secure the devotion of the peasantry. " Stockholm's 
 
 224
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 Blood Bath " was the name given to this wholesale 
 execution. " On the 8th of November (1520) at 
 dawn, all the gates of the city were closed; loaded 
 cannon were planted in the great market-place, and 
 guards stationed at every point of the intersecting 
 streets. The deathlike silence was broken by the 
 sound of the castle bell when the long procession of 
 victims marched forth to the place of martyrdom. 
 
 " The Bishop of Skara, one of the prisoners, 
 loudly invoked the vengeance of Heaven upon the 
 false and perfidious tyrant, who thus sacrificed the 
 lives of innocent men at the caprice of suborned and 
 perjured judges. The burgomasters of Stockholm 
 exhorted their fellow citizens to shake off his de- 
 tested yoke and never more to trust his oaths and 
 promises. The prelate of Strengnaes, who had 
 earliest espoused the cause of Christian, was first 
 led forth to execution. As he fell on his knees and 
 was about to receive the fatal blow, his chancellor, 
 Olaus Petri, accompanied by his brother, Lauren- 
 tius, rushed from the crowd to embrace his dying 
 master, when the bloody head rolled at his feet. 
 Olaus exclaimed against the cruel deed, but he was 
 instantly seized, dragged within the circle and would 
 infallibly have paid with his life for his temerity, 
 had not a spectator who knew the two brothers in 
 Wittemberg interposed, declaring that they were not 
 natives, but Germans. By this accidental discovery 
 were preserved the first apostles of the Reformation 
 in Sweden. 
 
 " The slaughter of the other bishops and senators 
 225
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 followed; and among the latter -was Erik, the father 
 of Gustavus Vasa. The burgomasters next suffered, 
 the execrations of their comrades being drowned by 
 the noise of the Danish soldiery. The bodies of the 
 dead lay for two days and nights unburied in the 
 market-place, after which they were removed and 
 burned without the city walls. The remains of 
 Sture were disinterred and committed to the flames. 
 At the intercession of some ladies of the court, his 
 widow's life was spared on the payment of a heavy 
 ransom ; and she was conducted to Denmark with the 
 mother of Gustavus Vasa and several other illus- 
 trious women, who were exposed to every hardship 
 and indignity which malice or tyranny could inflict. 
 The King took his departure from Stockholm after 
 having constituted a regency and placed a strong gar- 
 rison of Danish, German and Scottish troops in the 
 capital." * 
 
 Gustavus Vasa heard the news of the terrible 
 " Blood Bath" at Rafsnas, on the Gripsholm fjord, 
 not far from Gripsholm Castle, and resolved to de- 
 liver his country from the Danish yoke and avenge 
 his father's death. He headed a revolt, repeatedly 
 defeated the Danes, and took Stockholm in 1523. 
 At a Diet held in Strengnas in that year, Gustavus 
 was elected King of Sweden. His next task was to 
 reform and reorganize the country, exhausted by 
 war, and altogether in a very backward and unhappy 
 condition. In 1527, he abolished the Roman Cath- 
 olic religion; and, in 1529, made the Lutheran the 
 
 * Crichton. 
 226
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 established religion. In 1544, the Swedish diet 
 made the throne hereditary in his family. 
 
 The descendants of Gustavus Vasa, especially 
 Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XII., made the 
 name of Sweden renowned throughout Europe. 
 Stockholm gradually eclipsed Upsala as the capital, 
 and many important events happened within the 
 walls. It was at Stockholm that Gustavus Adolphus, 
 the greatest soldier of the age and the champion of 
 Protestantism, assembled the States in May, 1630, 
 and took his little four-year-old daughter, Christina, 
 and showed her to his people as their future sover- 
 eign. His farewell was spoken in broken accents 
 and heard with many tears. His death on the field 
 of Lu'tzen, two and a half years later, plunged Stock- 
 holm into deep gloom, as the event was erroneously 
 regarded as the ruin of the Protestant cause. How- 
 ever, the Chancellor Oxenstiern ably filled the gap ; 
 and when Christina came to the throne, she soon 
 abdicated in favor of her cousin, Charles X., who 
 increased the dominions and military glory of 
 Sweden. 
 
 Gustavus III. (1746-1792), was born in Stock- 
 holm and met a cruel death there. He was an able 
 and cultured ruler, but out of sympathy with his 
 subjects, who refused to vote money to aid the 
 French king on the outbreak of the Revolution. The 
 nobles, whose powers he had curbed, conspired 
 against him; and, although warned not to attend a 
 masked ball at the Opera House he had built, he 
 went there and was shot by an ex-officer of the guard, 
 
 227
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 named Ankerstrom. He lingered for thirteen days 
 in dreadful agony. 
 
 His son, Gustavus IV., involved the country in 
 wars; and under him Sweden lost Finland and 
 Pomerania. His English allies and his own people 
 finally tired of his wrong-headed policy ; and he was 
 forced to abdicate. His uncle, Duke Charles, was 
 elected to the crown in 1809. A year later the 
 Swedes astonished Europe by asking Napoleon's 
 Marshal Bernadotte to become heir to the throne, 
 and as the health of Charles XIII. failed in the next 
 year, he became practically the ruler. In 1818, he 
 ascended the throne as Charles XIV. He is usually 
 called " Charles XlV.-John." Sweden prospered 
 under Bernadotte, who earned for himself the char- 
 acter of a good and wise king. He died in 1844, 
 and was succeeded by his son, Oscar I. 
 
 Old Stockholm was built on three islands, the 
 Stockholm (City Island) ; Eiddarholm (Knight's 
 Island) ; and Helgeandsholm (Holy Ghost Island) ; 
 and nearly all the historical buildings are to be 
 found here, as well as the new Parliament buildings 
 and the Bank. The situation is a very beautiful one. 
 
 An English traveller writes : 
 
 " It was very early when I first looked out on the 
 still slumbering city, and it seemed strange to note 
 the hush and silence of the night still settled on the 
 streets, though the sun had already climbed quite 
 high and the water and the white pavements were 
 bright with the glitter of a blue and gold day. My 
 window faced towards the south, and the morning 
 
 228
 
 Copyright, 1910, by Underwood & Underwood. 
 
 OLD AND NEW STOCKHOLM FROM KATARINA 
 HISSEN
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 sun threw a golden bridge over the sparkling waters 
 of the Saltsjo up to the white shining wharves of 
 the Staden Island. On the left the view ranged to 
 the southern portion of the town, the Sodermalm, 
 which rises in terraces to a height of two hundred 
 feet above the level of the surrounding water. West- 
 wards lay the palace, a huge sombre pile standing 
 sentinel over the sleeping city, its frowning dark- 
 ness relieved by a few points of light caught by its 
 windows from the morning sun. Above and beyond 
 rose the graceful iron spire of the Riddarholm 
 church cutting black and clear into the pale blue sky, 
 and to the right, in the middle distance, appeared 
 the narrow outlet of the Malar, its waters rushing 
 and swirling from the higher level of the lake below 
 the heavy masonry of the Norrbro, a granite bridge 
 which springs its grey arch from the northern point 
 of the Staden Island, linking the old quarter with 
 the new. It had certainly a very beautiful aspect, 
 this old northern town in the still hours of the early 
 summer morning." 
 
 We will begin our explorations with the islands of 
 Staden and Riddarholmen. 
 
 Staden is the very kernel of Stockholm the 
 Town. Upon it stands the Koyal Palace ; the Church 
 of St. Nicholas, or Storkyrka, where the kings of 
 Sweden are always crowned; and close by the 
 Storkyrka, the Exchange, upon the famous old 
 square or market-place called the Stor-Torg, the 
 scene of the terrible " Blood Bath " of 1520. 
 
 A broad granite quay beginning at the monument 
 229
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 to Gustavus III. extends around the east side of the 
 island, and here are docked and anchored most of 
 the steamers and steam-launches that sail for distant 
 ports, or that flit back and forth from island to 
 island. On the other side of Staden, just beyond the 
 equestrian statue of Charles XIV., at the point 
 where the Soderstrom enters the Baltic from Lake 
 Malar, begin the markets Kornhamns Torg (Corn- 
 harbor market) ; Malar Market, and the Meat Mar- 
 ket. jSTorth of the Meat Market, we find Munkbro 
 (Monk's Bridge). 
 
 All this side of Staden is therefore devoted to 
 market traffic; and, of course, is the place to see the 
 arrival of market-boats and peasants in costume. 
 
 Here, too, gather the servants, who generally do 
 the buying for the household. The fish-market is a 
 floating-wharf in front of the statue of Charles 
 XIV. ; and it is interesting to note that the fish are 
 brought alive in the boats and kept in tanks until 
 they find a purchaser. Nobody in Sweden would 
 think of buying a dead fish. 
 
 On the south, Staden is connected with the suburb 
 of Sodermalm by the Slussen, or sluice bridge. 
 
 The most important building on Staden is, of 
 course, the Royal Palace. This noble pile, which is 
 built on the highest part of the island, was com- 
 pleted by Nicodemus Tessin, son of Count Tessin, 
 the original architect, in 1760 ; and it was renovated 
 completely in 1898-1901. The basement is granite, 
 and the rest brick faced with sandstone. It is a huge 
 four square building with wings at each corner, the 
 
 230
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 wings two stories lower than the central structure. 
 The inner courtyard is entered by four gateways, one 
 in the centre of each fagade. The northwest portal 
 facing the Norrbro bridge dates from 18241834 
 and is called Lejoribacken, or the hill of lions. It is 
 of solid granite and ornamented with two colossal 
 lions of bronze. In front of this portal is a large 
 platform from which one of the best views of Stock- 
 holm is to be enjoyed, looking across Norrbro bridge 
 and the northern suburb, and over Malar lake on the 
 left. On the opposite side the southeast the Pal- 
 ace with its colonnade looks towards SlottsbacTcen, or 
 Palace Hill, which slopes down to the quay called 
 Skeppsbro, a broad esplanade where the Royal troops 
 parade every day at noon, and which is also a Royal 
 driveway. At one end of this esplanade stands a 
 granite Obelisk, a hundred feet high, erected by 
 Gustavus IV. to commemorate the zeal and fidelity 
 of the citizens of Stockholm during the war with 
 Russia in 1788-1790; and, at the other, a bronze 
 statue of Gustavus III., at the spot on which he 
 landed in triumph after the hard battle of Svensk- 
 sund. 
 
 On the north-east side is a small garden called 
 Log'drden, or lynx-yard, because at one time a small 
 menagerie was kept here. 
 
 It would be impossible for us to inspect the entire 
 Palace, for it contains no less than 516 rooms, not 
 counting the kitchens and cellars. 
 
 In the gateway and leading to the royal apart- 
 ments is a grand staircase of great splendor, orna- 
 
 231
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 merited with paintings, pillars, and niches contain- 
 ing porphyry urns, bronze figures holding lamps, 
 medallions of ancient kings, etc. The State Apart- 
 ments consist of nine splendid rooms, including the 
 Life Guard Saloon, the Council Room, the Audience 
 Room, the Red Saloon, the Grand Gallery (162 feet 
 long) decorated with paintings, marble, stucco and 
 gilding, its massive oaken doors with carvings two 
 hundred years old, and lighted with 32 chandeliers, 
 the Concert Room; and the ball room (118 feet 
 long) called the " White Sea," on account of its 
 white stucco walls. It is ornamented with gildings, 
 mirrors and ceiling-paintings by Italian artists of 
 the Eighteenth Century, and illuminated by 14 
 chandeliers and 10 candelabra. 
 
 The King's Grand Apartments number twelve, in- 
 cluding a dining-room hung with Gobelins tapestry 
 presented by Catherine II. of Russia to Gustavus 
 III. ; the Pillar Hall, where the conspirators assem- 
 bled to dethrone Gustavus IV. ; the Victoria Hall 
 and the Porcelain Chamber with their fine old furni- 
 ture, china and other treasures ; the Apartments of 
 Oscar I. ; and the Queen's Apartments (Sophia of 
 Nassau) containing many objects of interest besides 
 old furniture. One of these rooms, called the Hall 
 of Mirrors, is among the finest in the Palace. 
 
 A staircase in the gateway towards Slottsbacken 
 leads to the Chapel Royal, with its marble columns, 
 richly sculptured pulpit, and altar and ceiling paint- 
 ings. Near this is situated the Rilcs-Sal, Imperial 
 Hall, or Throne-room, in which the ceremony of 
 
 232
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 opening the Riksdag, or Parliament, takes place on 
 Jan. 15. 
 
 The Royal Museum of Armour and Costume, in 
 the north-east wing of the Palace, is one of the finest 
 collections of its kind in the world. Here are Swed- 
 ish flags and standards, equestrian and other suits 
 of armor, helmets, saddles, sabres, daggers and 
 weapons of all kinds, interesting because they be- 
 longed to historical personages, or because they are 
 works of art, or enriched with precious stones. The 
 sword of Gustavus Vasa, and the helmet of Ivan the 
 Terrible of Russia are also among the famous relics. 
 There are also suits of parade armor and jousting 
 armor, and a child's suit of armor dating from the 
 Seventeenth Century. 
 
 In the Costume Chamber, we find coronation 
 robes and mantles, robes of the Seraphim Order 
 worn by Gustavus III., the masquerade suit which 
 Gustavus III. had on when he was shot at a ball in 
 the Royal Theatre in 1792, five coronation coaches 
 and a state sleigh. 
 
 Near the Palace on the Slottsbacken stands the 
 Church of St. Nicholas, commonly called the Stor- 
 TcyrTca, the tower of which (184 feet high) groups 
 beautifully with the Palace, as it breaks the long 
 straight line of buildings. This is the oldest church 
 in Stockholm, and is said to have been founded by 
 Birgir Jarl in 1264. The present building dates 
 from 1726-1743. In it the Swedish monarchs are 
 crowned. The interior consists of a nave with dou- 
 ble aisles and a wonderful reredos from Augsburg 
 
 233
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 of carved ebony, ornamented with gold, silver, and 
 ivory, representing eighteen scenes from the life of 
 Jesus Christ. The pulpit and choir-stalls are elab- 
 orately carved; there is a brass candlestick with 
 seven branches of Fourteenth Century work, many 
 ancient and modern tombs, and two enormous pic- 
 tures of the Last Judgment and ihe^Crucifixion by 
 Von Ehrenstrahl, who died in Stockholm in 1699. 
 
 On a wide street called Svartman-Gatan, leading 
 from the Stor-Torg to the Custom House, stands the 
 German Church, called by the Swedes Tyska Kyrka, 
 built in the Seventeenth Century and restored in 
 1878 after a fire. It was formerly called the Chapel 
 of St Gertrude, and has a fine tapering spire, 222 
 feet high, and the only peal of bells in Stockholm. 
 German merchants of the Seventeenth Century pre- 
 sented the pulpit and altar. The modern stained- 
 glass windows came from Munich. 
 
 Many steep little streets, which had better be 
 called lanes, lead from the Stor-Torg to Skeppsbro 
 on one side and to V ' esterldng-Gatan and 8 tor a Ny- 
 Gatan on the other; and as they are occupied by 
 poor artisans and tradesmen, they contain quaint old 
 dwellings ; and here you will find much that is typi- 
 cal of Swedish life. 
 
 The wide street, Stora 2sTy-Gatan will bring us to 
 another square called the Riddarlius-Torg, which 
 has been the scene of many executions. The statue 
 of Gustavus Vasa, erected in 1773 by the Swedish 
 nobility on the 250th anniversary of the day he 
 entered Stockholm and delivered Sweden from 
 
 234
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 Denmark, stands in front of the Riddarhus, a Sev- 
 enteenth Century building of brick and sandstone, 
 the fagade of which is ornamented with allegorical 
 figures and Latin mottoes. In the room decorated 
 with the coats-of-arms of all the Swedish nobility, the 
 Chamber of Nobles held its meetings until 1866. 
 This room has been the scene of many events. Here 
 the first Gustavus received the homage of his coun- 
 trymen for having freed his country ; here Gustavus 
 Adolphus made a great speech to his assembled sub- 
 jects before starting on his famous campaign which 
 ended with his life on the battlefield of Liitzen ; here 
 his infant daughter, Christina, was declared Queen 
 of Sweden, when the news came of his death; and 
 here Gustavus III. surrounded the rebellious nobles 
 with troops and dictated a new constitution. 
 
 Near the Riddarhus is the Rddhus, or Town Hall, 
 fronting the square on one side and the water on the 
 other. 
 
 A bridge crosses here from the Eiddarhus-Torg 
 to Riddarholm. We have come here, of course, to 
 see the Riddarholms-Kyrka, originally a beautiful 
 Franciscan monastery of Gothic architecture. Ow- 
 ing to fires, restorations and the additions of burial 
 chapels on the sides, its original style has been 
 changed; but it is still a picturesque building, and 
 the iron-work spire (302 feet high), fortunately light 
 and elegant in design which replaces the old one 
 destroyed by lightning in 1835, is a landmark that 
 the stranger in Stockholm soon learns to recognize. 
 
 Kiddarholms-Kyrka has been the burial-place of 
 235
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Sweden's kings and heroes since the days of Gus- 
 tavus Vasa it may appropriately be called Swe- 
 den's Westminster Abbey. No service is ever per- 
 formed here except for royal funerals. 
 
 " The sacred shrine here for every true Protes- 
 tant," says a traveller, " is in the chapel upon the 
 right of the altar. There repose the mortal remains 
 of the chivalrous and heroic champion of the Prot- 
 estant cause, the great Gustavus Adolphus. His 
 sarcophagus of green Italian marble, surrounded 
 with banners and trophies, bears the appropriate in- 
 scription, Moriens iriumpliavit, for he died as he had 
 lived, victorious alike over his own passions and the 
 enemies of his faith and country. In the Gustavian 
 Chapel are also buried the remains of his queen, 
 Maria Eleonora; of Adolphus Frederick and his 
 queen Louise Ulrika; Gustavus III. and his queen 
 Sophia Magdalena; Charles XIII. and his queen 
 Charlotte; and other royal personages. In the op- 
 posite, or Carolin Chapel, is the tomb of the fiery 
 Charles XII. His sarcophagus of white, on a ped- 
 estal of green marble, is covered with a lion's skin in 
 brass gilt, on which are placed a crown, sceptre and 
 sword and the name Charles XII. inscribed. Round 
 about hang trophies of his various battles, including 
 a standard taken with his own hand in Poland." 
 Armorial bearings of deceased knights of the Order 
 of the Seraphim are also on the walls, and numerous 
 flags, banners and other trophies are displayed above 
 the tombs. 
 
 Norrbro Bridge, which was finished in 1806, is 
 236
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 375 feet long, and is composed of seven granite 
 arches. It crosses the little island Helgeandsholm 
 that lies between Staden and the mainland. Half- 
 way across this island, two flights of steps lead down 
 from the bridge on the east side to the Stromparterre, 
 a celebrated cafe the garden of which is washed by 
 the waters of the Norrstrom. 
 
 The north end of Norrbro brings us into Gustaf- 
 Adolfs-Torg, the big square in which stands an 
 equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus, erected in 
 1796. On the west side of the square stands the 
 Crown Prince's Palace; and, on the east, the mag- 
 nificent Opera House with a large terrace which 
 commands a fine view of the city. 
 
 East of the Opera House is the Kungstr'ddg'drd, 
 the King's Garden, beautiful with trees and flowers. 
 Here, too, is a bronze fountain with figures of sea- 
 nymphs listening to the harps of the Nixies, in al- 
 lusion to Stockholm's situation between lake and sea. 
 The church that rises west of this charming prom- 
 enade is Jdkobs-Kyrka, built in the Seventeenth Cen- 
 tury, and worth looking at on account of its finely 
 carved portal. The organ in this church is consid- 
 ered the best in Sweden. The statue of Charles 
 XIII. in the middle of the King's Garden repre- 
 sents him in the robes of the Seraphim Order: the 
 lions at the foot of the monument are much admired. 
 The streets on the east side of the King's Garden 
 lead to another pleasure ground called Berzelii Park, 
 where cafes and restaurants, flowers and shady 
 trees attract the public. 
 
 237
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 North-east of this park lies a district known as 
 Ostermalm, which is comparatively new. It is de- 
 voted almost exclusively to residences of the well-to- 
 do citizens. A broad avenue, called Strandvagen, 
 bounds this quarter on the south. Here are many 
 handsome four-story houses. Strandvagen runs 
 along the water's edge, two bays breaking in at this 
 point. A handsome bridge, built in 1897, and orna- 
 mented with figures from Northern mythology, con- 
 nects Strandvagen with the island of Djurg'drden. 
 
 On the west side of Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg we find 
 the busiest streets. Drotting-Gatan is a broad ave- 
 nue that runs through the whole of the northern dis- 
 trict from Strom-Gatan that faces the water (the 
 Norrstrom) to the Observatory. On Drotting- 
 Gatan are all the finest shops; and from this fact 
 alone we know where to find the fashionable ladies. 
 A walk along Drotting-Gatan will show us Stock- 
 holm's wealthy citizens in their happiest mood. 
 
 Another wide street leading north from Gustaf- 
 Adolfs-Torg is called Regerings-Gatan ; and between 
 it and Drotting-Gatan is a square called Brurike- 
 bergs-Torg, north of which is the tall Telephone 
 Tower, that we are always catching sight of where- 
 ever we go. 
 
 West of Drotting-Gatan, and not far from the 
 Railway station, stands the simple but massive Klara- 
 Kyrka. St. Clara's is noted for its beautiful in- 
 terior and its lofty steeple (340 feet high). It was 
 formerly a convent of Franciscan nuns, built in 
 1285; but was destroyed by fire. The present 
 
 238
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 church dates from the middle of the Eighteenth Cen- 
 tury. 
 
 The Adolf -Fredriks-Kyrka, east of Drotting- 
 Gatan, was built about the same time. It is in the 
 form of a Greek cross with an octagon tower in the 
 centre. The next spire that we see east of this 
 church belongs to the Joliannes-Kyrka, a modern 
 building. We are always seeing this church, not 
 only because it has a very tall tower, but because it 
 stands on a rather high hill called Brurikeberg. 
 
 While we are in this neighborhood, we may as 
 well visit the delightful park called Humlegard 
 (Hop-garden), which, laid out in the Seventeenth 
 Century, has been kept up for more than two hun- 
 dred years. 
 
 Among the trees, shrubs and flowers stands a mon- 
 ument to the great Swedish botanist, Linnaeus, and 
 another to Borjeson, who discovered oxygen. 
 
 In Humlegard, the National Library was erected 
 in 1870-1876, a fine building that contains about 
 380,000 books and 11,000 Mss. Beyond this park 
 lies a residential quarter bounded on the north by 
 a street called Valhalla-Vdg. East of Humlegard 
 is the district called Ostermalm. 
 
 The southern quarter of Stockholm, known as 
 Sodermalm, separated from the island of Staden by 
 the Soderstrom which links Lake Malar with the 
 Baltic, and which is crossed by two iron bridges, is 
 very picturesque, because the land on which it is 
 built is very high and rocky, in consequence of which 
 the views are extended and beautiful. A long wide 
 
 239
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 quay lies east of the bridges along the Baltic; and 
 another long wide quay lies west of the bridges on 
 Lake Malar; and on each of these quays a steam 
 elevator carries passengers through the rock to a 
 belvedere at the top for a fine view of Stockholm and 
 the surrounding country. The Mosebacken Garden 
 (on the Hill of Moses) is also noted for its un- 
 rivalled view. The whole of Stockholm is seen from 
 the terrace with all its islands, towers, bridges, spires, 
 trees, gardens, lakes and harbors with all the ship- 
 ping. On the right lies the Baltic, enlivened with 
 ships and steam launches flitting from island to is- 
 land ; and on the left the beautiful Lake Malar. On 
 this hill is a very fine theatre, the Sodra Teater, and 
 there are numerous restaurants and cafes in the vi- 
 cinity. The two important churches in Sodermalm, 
 Maria-Kyrka and Katarina-KyrJca, are buildings of 
 the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries. 
 
 A broad quay called Blasieholmshamnen leads 
 from the square Carl XII.'s Torg to the south end of 
 Blasieholmen, the chief attraction of which is the 
 National Museum. 
 
 This is a handsome building in the Renaissance 
 style with an entrance of greenish marble, over which 
 are medallions of six famous Swedes: Linnseus, the 
 botanist ; Ehrenstrahl, the painter ; Tegner, the poet ; 
 Fogelberg, the sculptor; Wallin, the hymn- writer; 
 and Berzelius, the chemist. There are also statues 
 of Tessin, the architect, and Sergei, the sculptor. 
 
 In the rooms devoted to Swedish antiquities, we 
 find curious relics of the Stone Age, the Bronze Age, 
 
 240
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 the Iron Age, and embroideries, ornaments and carv- 
 ings of the Middle Ages. The collection of porcelain 
 is also of great interest, and several rooms are de- 
 voted to furniture of the Sixteenth, Seventeenth and 
 Eighteenth Centuries. 
 
 The gem of the Sculpture gallery is a " Sleeping 
 Endymion " found in Hadrian's villa at Tivoli in 
 1773, and bought by Gustavus III. The same king 
 did much to enrich the picture gallery, in which his 
 mother, Queen Louisa Ulrica, had taken so great an 
 interest. She purchased Count Tessin's splendid 
 collection of French masters of the Eighteenth Cen- 
 tury which are the glories of the Swedish gallery. 
 The " Triumph of Galatea," by Boucher, is consid- 
 ered by many critics the masterpiece of this painter 
 of Graces, Goddesses and Loves. Next in importance 
 to the French pictures are those by the Dutch and 
 Flemish masters. Of course, the Swedish painters 
 from the Seventeenth Century to the present day 
 are splendidly represented. 
 
 An iron bridge, Skeppsholms-Bro, connects the 
 south end of Blasieholm with Slceppsholmen, a small 
 island, the military and naval headquarters of Stock- 
 holm. The most conspicuous buildings are the Kan- 
 onier-Kasern and the Karl-JoTians-Kyrka. A wood- 
 en bridge leads to another and smaller island, Kas- 
 telholmen (Castle Island), famous for its prome- 
 nades and view from the tower of the Citadel. Here 
 the Royal Skating Club is situated. 
 
 The whole island of Djurgdrden that lies on the 
 east of Staden is a pleasure resort. As its name tells 
 
 241
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 us, it was originally a deer-preserve, and was turned 
 into a park bj Gustavus III. and Charles XIV. A 
 stone bridge connects it with the mainland at the 
 Strandvag; but steamboats constantly ferry passen- 
 gers here from various places. The beautifully un- 
 dulating ground, the green sward, the fine old oaks 
 and other trees; the charming walks and the pretty 
 villas make Djurgarden one of the most beautiful 
 parks in Europe. Restaurants, including the cele- 
 brated Hasselbacken, are numerous, as well as places 
 of amusement One of the features of the park is 
 a colossal statue of the poet Bellman erected by the 
 Swedish Academy in 1829. On the 26th of July 
 every year, people flock here to recite his verses 
 and honor his memory ; for Bellman is even more of 
 an idol in Stockholm than Hans Andersen is in Co- 
 penhagen. 
 
 On the south of Djurgarden a little peninsula juts 
 out from the island, which is a special park called 
 Frisens Park, a very popular Sunday resort; and 
 on the west side of the island is Djurgards-Staden, 
 where the houses are built of timber, and which, 
 therefore, is a very interesting quarter to visit. 
 
 On the north of the island, not far from the bridge, 
 is situated the Northern Museum, built in the style 
 of a Swedish castle of the Sixteenth Century, and 
 devoted to Scandinavian costumes and antiquities of 
 all kinds. 
 
 Further along, near the entrance to STcansen, we 
 find what at first sight appears to be an old wooden 
 Norwegian church (Stavekirker). It is, however, 
 
 242
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 the Biological Museum where Scandinavian birds 
 and animals are exhibited, beautifully arranged and 
 mounted. 
 
 We shall have to spend many hours in the de- 
 lightful and unique open-air museum, called Skan- 
 sen, which was founded in 1891. It consists of 
 about seventy acres, laid out in such a manner that 
 we see all of Sweden in miniature with its lakes, 
 rocky hills, woods, cultivated fields and pasture 
 lands. Typical old dwelling-houses and churches 
 have been transported here, or reproduced, and are 
 shown by peasants in their native costumes. We see 
 thatched houses, old manor-houses and peasants' huts, 
 each of which is correctly furnished. Of particular 
 interest is a storehouse of a manor-house in Oster- 
 gotland, one of the oldest wooden buildings in Swe- 
 den, and the old Bollnasstuga, a building of the 
 Sixteenth Century from Helsingland, which con- 
 tains articles used in the joyous celebration of Yule 
 in olden days. 
 
 Nor are animals and birds missing. We can visit 
 the holes and cages of bears, foxes, lynxes, gluttons, 
 wolves, otters and other animals; and gaze our fill 
 at the eagles, hawks, owls, ptarmigan and other na- 
 tive birds; but what will probably detain us longest 
 are the Greenland and Jemtland dogs, and the 
 Keindeer Enclosure, and the Lapp Camp. These re- 
 mind us that we are not very far from the Arctic 
 Circle. 
 
 There are many towers in this park from which 
 lovely views are to be enjoyed; and numerous res- 
 
 243
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 taurants where the weary sight-seer may have re- 
 freshment. Every evening there are dances and 
 sports and music at Skansen; and the Swedish fes- 
 tivals are always celebrated here with special fea- 
 tures. These are: Walpurgis Eve and Walpurgis 
 Day (April 30 and May 1) ; the Anniversary of 
 Gustavus Vasa's accession (June 6) ; St. John's Eve 
 and Midsummer Day (June 23 and 24) ; St. Lucy's 
 Day (Dec. 13) ; and Yule (Christmas, Dec. 25). 
 
 Beyond Skansen is situated the Koyal villa, Rosen- 
 dal, built by Charles XIV., with its lovely park, hot- 
 houses and orangeries. The interior of the palace 
 is richly furnished. In the grounds stands a famous 
 red " Porphyry Vase," nine feet high and twelve 
 feet in diameter, which was made in the Royal man- 
 ufactory of Elfdal in Dalecarlia. 
 
 Haga is another favorite resort north of Stock- 
 holm on a pretty lake, called the Brunnsviken, com- 
 municating with a fjord that leads to Ulnksdal. 
 The castle of Haga was built by Gustavua III. in 
 1786-88, and was his favorite residence. It contains 
 some furniture of his time and many decorative 
 paintings. 
 
 Ulriksdal was built at the end of the Seventeenth 
 Century by Jacob de la Gardie, and afterward be- 
 came the property of the widow of Charles X., who 
 left it to her grandson, Prince Ulrik, whose name it 
 bears. It is filled with furniture and various curi- 
 osities of interest to the traveller as well as to those 
 especially interested in Swedish history. The park 
 is noted for its fine avenue of lime-trees and its pretty 
 
 244
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 gardens ; and there is a chapel near the castle erected 
 in 1865, in the Dutch Renaissance style. 
 
 The most beautiful of the royal palaces, however, 
 is Drottningliolm, built by Count Tessin on the is- 
 land of Lofo in Lake Malar. 
 
 The palace is sumptuously furnished; and con- 
 tains many pictures, tapestries and other works of 
 art. There is also a fine library; and in the exten- 
 sive park we find a theatre and a maze. The old 
 gardens, laid out in various styles, are adorned with 
 sculpture in bronze and marble, and fountains and 
 lakes on which swans and other aquatic birds are 
 numerous. The Chinese Pagoda, built by Adolphus 
 Frederick as a birthday surprise for his wife, Louise 
 Ulrika, is filled with Chinese curiosities. 
 
 The winter days in Stockholm are long and dark. 
 In December, the sun does not rise until nine o'clock 
 and he gets through his daily journey by half -past 
 two! 
 
 Eighteen hours of darkness, however, does not 
 prevent the enjoyment of out-of-door sports. No 
 people in the world enjoy winter more than the 
 Swedes; and well they may; for their country is 
 fairy-land when King "Winter is on his crystal 
 throne. 
 
 Stockholm looks very beautiful in her wintry gar- 
 ments, when all the lakes and bays and inlets and 
 canals are glassy mirrors; and the pines, firs and 
 spruce trees in the parks and suburbs are robed in 
 ermine, and all the roofs, cornices, spires and 
 gables are powdered with feathery snow, or made 
 
 245
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 fantastic with glistening icicles. And -what beau- 
 tiful colors glow in the sky ! What marvellous hues 
 are caught and reflected on the glistening surface of 
 the snow ! 
 
 The American traveller, Bayard Taylor, was great- 
 ly impressed with the enchanting colors of a Swedish 
 winter landscape. He writes: 
 
 " The sun rose a little after ten, and I have never 
 seen anything finer than the spectacle which we then 
 saw for the first time, but which was afterwards al- 
 most daily repeated the illumination of the forests 
 and snow-fields in his level orange beams, for even 
 at midday he was not more than eight degrees above 
 the horizon. The tops of the trees only were 
 touched: still and solid as iron, and covered with 
 sparkling frost-crystals, their trunks were changed 
 to blazing gold, and their foliage to a fiery orange- 
 brown. The delicate purple sprays of the birch, 
 coated with ice, glittered like wands of topaz and 
 amethyst, and the slopes of virgin snow stretching 
 towards the sun, shone with the fairest saffron 
 gleams. There is nothing equal to this in the South 
 nothing so transcendently rich, dazzling and glori- 
 ous." 
 
 How the people delight in sleighing, skating and 
 tobogganing! How merrily the bells jingle as the 
 sleighs dash along the streets and roads ! An Eng- 
 lish traveller writes: 
 
 " All the traffic is on sledges ; the flys and private 
 carriages go on runners, with only the curly splash- 
 board to denote the wheel of summer. Long light 
 
 246
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 sledges are also used, propelled from behind with the 
 foot in a succession of kicks, and can be driven at 
 a great pace. But the most curious means of loco- 
 motion is the Swedish snow shoe, now becoming well- 
 known to English frequenters of Davoa and St. 
 Moritz. 
 
 " These skidor are strips of pine wood, six or eight 
 feet long, by about four inches wide, and strapped 
 quite loosely to the feet. The Lapps and up-coun- 
 try peasants use them perpetually during winter, 
 and can go on the flat at a speed of six or eight miles 
 an hour." 
 
 People skate in Stockholm as naturally as they 
 walk; and the Royal Skating Club on Kastelholmen 
 is not by any means the only resort. Indeed, every 
 lake and canal presents an animated picture. The 
 traveller just quoted also tells us: 
 
 " It was most exhilarating to join the varied 
 throng, any evening after seven o'clock, on one of 
 these spacious swept and garnished areas by the side 
 of the central island. They were here in their thou- 
 sands; men, women and children. And bandstands 
 in the middle of the areas gave facility for the music 
 so loved by the Stockholmers ; and electric lamps were 
 slung round and about the enclosure. The moon and 
 the keen northern stars did their best also to make 
 the scene memorable, while on the outskirts of the 
 rinks were booths as at a fair, in which, as in more 
 southern resorts, you might get cups of coffee for a 
 halfpenny, or shoot at blown eggs dancing on jets 
 of water." 
 
 247
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 One of the favorite skating resorts is the strait 
 between Djurgarden and the mainland. Hundreds 
 of skaters are seen here ; and, as on every other lake 
 and canal, many bear skating-sails. People often 
 skate enormous distances, and form parties for a 
 special expedition. 
 
 In the winter, too, comes the great season of Yule, 
 or Christmas. People begin to prepare early for 
 this joyous festival. Everybody has Christmas se- 
 crets, for gifts are universal. A few days before 
 Christmas, the boats come into Stockholm laden 
 with trees ; and in a short while the streets are filled 
 with the spicy fragrance- of the forest. Every house 
 in Sweden, from the King's Palace to the poorest 
 hovel, has its Christmas tree; consequently the sup- 
 ply in the markets and shops is enormous, and on 
 Christmas Eve every other person that you see is 
 carrying home a tree. On the Sunday before Christ- 
 mas Day, an old custom permits the shops to re- 
 main open; and according to another old custom 
 there is a special Christmas market in the Stor 
 Torg (see page 229), where little booths are erected 
 for the occasion, and where, in addition to all the 
 fancy articles, foods and Christmas-tree decorations, 
 the gingerbread Yule pig (Julgrisen) and Yule 
 goat (Julbocken) are conspicuous. 
 
 In every house, from that of the wealthy nobleman 
 to that of the peasant, the same Christmas supper is 
 served : a specially prepared fish for the first course ; 
 rice with cream and powdered cinnamon for the sec- 
 ond; and roast goose for the third. 
 
 248
 
 The City of Stockholm 
 
 The Christmas festivities are not over until Jan. 
 13, which is called " Twentieth Day Yule." 
 
 A greater festival, however, is Midsummer's Day. 
 Summer in Sweden is very short. Every one, re- 
 joicing in the bright sunshine, tries to make the most 
 of it while it lasts. The days now are eighteen 
 hours long and there is really no darkness. On June 
 23 the town is deserted. Steamboats, trams, trains, 
 cabs and carriages convey thousands into the coun- 
 try and parks to spend the day on the grass and 
 under the trees. Many carry their lunch baskets and 
 others depend on the restaurants, but all are alike 
 in one matter, they wear flowers or a bit of green- 
 ery. The birch bough and leaf are conspicuous 
 everywhere. Cabs, carriages and boats are masses 
 of moving boughs and garlands. Horses and cab- 
 men are also adorned; and everywhere you go, you 
 see the Maypole, sometimes fifty or sixty feet high, 
 gay with ribbons, flowers, garlands and blue and 
 yellow Swedish flags. The people dance and make 
 merry around it, just as they used to do in England 
 and in this country on the first of May, before the 
 Puritans forbade it. The festivities are kept up all 
 through the night, which is, after all, nothing but 
 a red twilight; and the Midsummer bonfires answer 
 one another from rock to rock until they mingle their 
 lurid gleams with the glowing banners of Odin's 
 Valkyrie daughters, the Dawn Maidens. 
 
 249
 
 THE CITY OF CHRISTIANIA 
 
 is a town of few historical asso- 
 ciations, monuments, or relics. It is a mod- 
 ern capital, and a town of much commerce and manu- 
 facture; and consequently its streets are full of life 
 and bustle. Its characteristics must be sought for in 
 the old suburbs, where a few old wooden houses still 
 survive in the narrow winding streets. Although it 
 has a fine University and many museums contain- 
 ing collections of value, its chief charm is in its 
 situation. Christiania lies on a peninsula between 
 the bays of Bjorviken and Piperviken in which the 
 great Christiania Fjord ends. On the southern point 
 of this promontory stands the old Castle, or fortress, 
 of Akershus; and to the north extends the broad 
 valley of Aker (AkersdaT) with its circle of forest- 
 clad hills. The Fjord is dotted with islands, some 
 of which are uninhabited, while others exhibit pretty 
 villas nestling among the trees. 
 
 The inhabitants of Christiania appreciate the 
 beautiful views of town, fjord, wooded hills and 
 snow-tipped mountains that surround them; and, 
 therefore, every pleasure-garden and every resort has 
 its tower from which the panorama may be observed. 
 It is the scenery more than any other pleasure that 
 Christiania has to offer that attracts the tourist. 
 
 250
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 Though Christiania has grown amazingly of late 
 years its general features remain the same as when 
 Bayard Taylor wrote: 
 
 " The environs of Christiania are remarkably 
 beautiful. From the quiet basin of the fjord, which 
 vanishes between blue, interlocking islands to the 
 southward, the land rises gradually on all sides' 
 speckled with smiling country-seats and farm-houses, 
 which trench less and less on the dark evergreen for- 
 ests as they recede until the latter keep their old 
 dominion and sweep in unbroken lines to the sum- 
 mits of the mountains on either hand. The ancient 
 citadel of Akershus, perched upon a rock, commands 
 the approach to the city, fine old linden trees rising 
 above its white walls and tiled roofs; beyond over 
 the trees of the palace park in which stand the new 
 Museum and University, towers the long palace front 
 behind which commences a range of villas and gar- 
 dens stretching westward around a deep bight of the 
 fjord, until they reach the new palace of Oscar's Hall 
 on a peninsula facing the city. As we floated over 
 the glassy water in a skiff on the afternoon following 
 our arrival, watching the scattered sun-gleams move 
 across the lovely panorama, we found it difficult to 
 believe that we were in the latitude of Greenland. 
 The dark rich green of the foliage, the balmy odors 
 which filled the air, the deep blue of the distant hills 
 and islands, and the soft, warm colors of the houses 
 all belonged to the south." 
 
 Christiania may be regarded as a city that was 
 twice founded. About 1050, Harold Haardraade 
 
 251
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 founded the town of Oslo on the fjord then called 
 F 'olden (now the Christiania Fjord) on a plain be- 
 neath the steep slopes of ETceberg. Harold built 
 here a castle and other edifices; but Haakon V. 
 (1299-1319) was the first to make Oslo a royal resi- 
 dence and the burial place for the kings. He re- 
 built the Mariakirken erected in the Eleventh Cen- 
 tury. 
 
 In the Middle Ages, Oslo was made the seat of a 
 bishopric, and became the most important town, af- 
 ter Bergen, in Norway. At the end of the Four- 
 teenth Century, many merchants of the Hanseatio 
 League were settled here and carried matters with a 
 high hand until the reign of Christian II. of Den- 
 mark (1513-1524). Oslo, being built of wood, suf- 
 fered frequently from fires in the Sixteenth Cen- 
 tury; and while it was being besieged in 1567 by the 
 Swedes, who had destroyed it forty years before, the 
 inhabitants burned it down rather than let it again 
 fall into their hands. It was rebuilt, but in 1624 
 it was again destroyed by fire; and King Christian 
 IV. of Denmark and Norway, who happened to be 
 in Norway at the time, decided to rebuild the city 
 and call it by his own name. 
 
 " What was done at that time by the king was 
 more a removal than anything else, mainly effected 
 on military grounds, as the city on its new site was 
 brought into close proximity to Akershus Castle, and, 
 shortly after its foundation, was surrounded by ram- 
 parts which were built up to the fortifications of the 
 Castle and formed with these a united whole. The 
 
 252
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 citizens were not permitted to rebuild their dwell- 
 ings, but were granted sites in the new city, which 
 were parcelled out by the King himself after pro- 
 ceeding to Akershus for the purpose. 
 
 " Most of the houses of Oslo were of wood and 
 repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. On the open por- 
 tions of the city's old ground there are no inconsid- 
 erable remains of the houses which were burnt down 
 by the fire of 1624, and which on various occasions, 
 especially during the excavations of 1892, have been 
 opened up. Many old houses by these operations 
 have been brought to light, showing that the destruc- 
 tion of 1624 cannot have been so complete as had 
 been imagined. These houses, dating from about 
 1570, formed, as long as they remained unexposed, 
 a sort of small Norwegian Pompeii in wood, and of 
 very modest proportions. 
 
 " As an offset to Oslo, with its perishable log tene- 
 ments, Christiania was, by the decree of its founder, 
 to be built of stone, and this was carried out to a 
 large extent, not however to the extent desired by 
 the King, and Christiania was thus, even within the 
 old ramparts, far from being a stone-built town. 
 Compared, however, with Oslo it represented a very 
 great advance for the times." * 
 
 Oslo did not disappear entirely, but continued a 
 somewhat dull existence as a suburb of Christiania 
 until it was annexed in 1859. 
 
 Christiania suffered from three severe fires in 
 1686, 1708 and 1858. The latter one was the worst, 
 * Bloch. 
 253
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 It broke out in the Skipper Gade in the centre of 
 the town, destroyed sixty houses, and rendered a 
 thousand persons homeless. Vaterland and Piper- 
 viken were almost swept away. The city was also 
 visited by the plague several times in the Seventeenth 
 Century; and by the cholera in 1833, and in 1840- 
 1850. In 1716, it was occupied by the army of 
 Charles II. of Sweden, which besieged the Castle of 
 Akershus. 
 
 Notwithstanding all these troubles, Christiania 
 has grown steadily. In the middle of the Eighteenth 
 Century, many merchants attained to wealth, par- 
 ticularly in trading with the English. The chief 
 commodity was timber. In 1807, Christiania expe- 
 rienced many calamities; but, after Norway and 
 Sweden became united in 1814, her commerce was 
 resuscitated; and Christiania now ranks next to 
 Copenhagen and Stockholm among the Scandinavian 
 towns. Apart from being a manufacturing centre 
 and supplying the Norwegian towns in her vicinity 
 with various articles, she exports lumber, matches 
 and ice in large quantities. 
 
 The University, founded in 1811, made Chris- 
 tiania the focus of the intellectual life of the coun- 
 try; and in 1814 it became the seat of Government 
 and Parliament (Storthing'). The great event of 
 late years was the act of the Storthing dissolving the 
 union of Norway and Sweden on June 7, 1905, and 
 a son of the King of Denmark taking his oath as 
 Hakon VII. before the Storthing on Nov. 27 of that 
 jear. 
 
 254
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 And now let us approach the city with the eyes 
 of an English traveller: 
 
 " The voyage all the way up the fjord is now a 
 moving panorama of lake scenery unique in char- 
 acter and of considerable beauty. Those who ex- 
 pect savage grandeur and a picturesque outline of 
 mountains and rocks will be disappointed, for, beau- 
 tiful as it is, the aspect is tame compared with scen- 
 ery in the fjords of the west coast. Most of the 
 islands and hills are too round in form to be very 
 picturesque; they are of granite and gneiss, and for 
 the most part covered with fir and pine trees from 
 the water's edge to the summit. 
 
 " If steaming up the fjord between the months of 
 May and July the traveller will be much struck by 
 the lightness of the nights and the gorgeous sunset 
 effects, which blend into those of sunrise without 
 losing their brightness. The course being due north 
 (towards the sun) there is probably no place in the 
 whole of Norway where sunsets are seen to greater 
 advantage. 
 
 " On the left just before reaching Christiania 
 (158 miles and about 12 hours from Christiansand) 
 will be seen the Ladegaardso peninsula, thickly cov- 
 ered, like the rest of the neighborhood east and west, 
 with pretty wooden villas. The city is now in sight 
 at the foot of a hilly amphitheatre. The more strik- 
 ing objects on the left are the palace and the huge 
 block of handsome buildings erected on Victoria 
 Terrace, by the late Mr. Peter Petersen, one of the 
 most enterprising citizens of Christiania. The slim 
 
 255
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 "but tall crenellated tower of Oscar's Hall adorns the 
 small bay to the west while straight in front lies 
 the once strong Castle of Akershus." 
 
 Akershus Castle, the ramparts of which are plant- 
 ed with lime-trees, and which is now an arsenal and 
 prison, was the royal residence of the Norwegian 
 sovereigns until about 1740. 
 
 Of the original castle, built here at the end of the 
 Thirteenth Century, only fragments of the founda- 
 tions are left; for it was besieged in 1310 by Duke 
 Eric of Sweden ; by Christian II. of Denmark ; and 
 by the Swedes in 1567 and 1716. The arsenal and 
 armory contain many relics such as arms and ban- 
 ners and other objects of historical interest; and in 
 a small tower on the south side the Norwegian re- 
 galia and articles belonging to the sovereigns are 
 preserved. The old prisons are also shown to vis- 
 itors. The view is superb, and the terrace is a fa- 
 vorite promenade. 
 
 Rounding the point on which the castle is situated, 
 the steamer soon reaches the railway quay, nearly 
 opposite the Custom House, and is docked in the 
 quay-lined harbor of Bjbrviken where numerous 
 other ships and steamers are lying. This was for- 
 merly the eastern boundary of the original city. A 
 new street here, Akerselven, with a bridge across the 
 river, Aker, has been opened to Oslo harbor. 
 
 " Old Christiania is very regular. Beyond it lies 
 a semi-circle of suburbs Piperviken, Hammersborg, 
 fiagbakken, Vaterland and Grbnland which, long 
 since, were included in the town but which yet defy 
 
 256
 
 
 
 ^^^^_^__^ i n - _- ^^^^^ 
 
 Copyright, 1910, by Underwood & Underwood. 
 
 CARL JOHAN S STREET, ROYAL PALACE IN THE 
 DISTANCE, CHRISTIANIA
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 all attempts of arrangement. With their low houses 
 and crooked streets, they do not create an attractive 
 picture. Beyond these in the more recently laid- 
 out portions, there again exists great regularity, the 
 streets being at right angles to each other, and the 
 houses in them fine and tall. Some of the new quar- 
 ters are filled with villas and form some of the pretti- 
 est and most attractive parts of the metropolis." * 
 
 The main thoroughfare, Carl Johan's Gade, is 
 also the northern boundary of old Christiania, and 
 runs from the Eastern Railway Station in a straight 
 line for about a mile until it ends at the Royal 
 Palace. Carl Johan's Gade is the street of handsome 
 shops, hotels and cafes; and the street on which we 
 find such important public buildings as the Storth- 
 ingsbygningen (House of Parliament), the Univer- 
 sity and the Museums. As it is the fashionable 
 promenade and shopping district, it is, therefore, the 
 street on which the traveller loves to stroll and linger. 
 
 The Royal Palace stands on an eminence in the 
 beautiful park and gardens laid out in formal taste 
 with lakes, walks and beds of bright flowers. In 
 front of the Palace on a terrace stands an equestrian 
 statue of Charles John (Bernadotte), facing the 
 street to which his name is given. This was un- 
 veiled in 1875. The Palace was erected in 1823- 
 1848 and is a simple, plain and not particularly at- 
 tractive structure. It is richly decorated within 
 with paintings and sculpture by Norwegian artists. 
 The chief rooms of interest are the large Ball Room, 
 * Bloch. 
 257
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the Red Drawing Room, and the King's Billiard 
 Room. 
 
 Skirting the Palace Park, the road Drammens 
 Veien (Drammen Road), affords a delightful and 
 much frequented walk. South of the Palace lies the 
 famous Victoria Terrace with its rows of handsome 
 houses. Drammens Veien runs along until it reaches 
 a branch of the fjord called the Kyles of Frogner 
 and then runs parallel to this boundary as far as the 
 mouth of the river Frogner. This is fast becoming 
 a villa district. North and west of the Palace Park 
 are other districts that are being built up with resi- 
 dences, especially Homansbyen (Homan's Town). 
 
 Going down Carl Johan's Gade from the Palace, 
 the first building on the left at the foot of the slope 
 is the University, which consists of three fine build- 
 ings, erected in 1841-1853. The Library, of 375,- 
 000 volumes, is contained in the wing nearest the 
 Palace. The Centre building has a fine portico orna- 
 mented with a statue of Minerva and is devoted to 
 lecture rooms and halls; here we also find the Zoo- 
 logical, Botanical, Zootomical, Mineralogical and 
 Ethnographical Collections. 
 
 Behind the University are situated the Museum 
 of Art containing the sculpture and picture galleries, 
 the Museum of Industrial Art, and the Historical 
 Museum. The collection of Northern antiquities in- 
 cludes relics of the Stone, Iron and Bronze Ages, 
 and many mediaeval objects of great interest, among 
 which are some marvellously carved doors of old 
 timber churches. 
 
 258
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 Of all the treasures, however, the most ancient 
 and valuable are two Viking ships, one of which was 
 found at Thune in 1867 and the other at Gogstad 
 in 1880. The latter is in the better state of pres- 
 ervation and measures 172 feet from stem to stern. 
 
 A visitor describes it as follows: 
 
 " It was unearthed from the mouth of the great 
 Christiania Fjord. It is shrined as it deserves to be 
 in a great shed all to itself, with glass cases round 
 the chamber containing the charred trifles, bones, 
 etc., which were disinterred with it. The walls are 
 hung with mouldering ropes and detached fragments 
 of the boat; and also with photographs of it and its 
 various parts. You may walk all round it on a 
 gravelled path, and so thoroughly examine it as it 
 stands in imposing ruin, buttressed on supports as if 
 it were in process of construction, instead of a relic 
 of about eleven centuries. 
 
 " An imaginative man may, with the help of pre- 
 cise description, readily furnish it for one of the 
 many marauding cruises in which doubtless it took 
 a part. Among the odds and ends which were found 
 with it were bits of homespun, supposed to belong to 
 the dead Viking's tent, and some peacock feathers. 
 These last are reasonably believed to have been the 
 result of the Northman's Foyages in southern seas, 
 since peacocks were then rare in Norway. They 
 may even have been taken from some Saxon home- 
 stead on the east coast of England. The Viking's 
 peacock was interred with him in the middle of the 
 boat, his horses and dogs being slain and laid like 
 
 259
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 dead sentinels outside the death chamber. Of all 
 these animals, as well as of the Viking himself, the 
 bones may be seen in the cases of the room. The 
 boat was drawn from the sea with its stern towards 
 the water, and all the details of the burial having 
 been settled, and the Viking himself placed where 
 he had commanded so often the whole of the ship, 
 except the sepulchral chamber, was covered with 
 potter's clay, with a layer of moss and twigs on the 
 top, upon which the mound was raised. 
 
 " In extreme length the boat is about one hun- 
 dred feet, by a middle width of sixteen feet. Its 
 lines excite the admiration of accomplished ship- 
 wrights in our day. Still, it is interesting to mark 
 how the Norwegians of the coast use boats modelled 
 quite after this old fashion. In the Faroe Isles, the 
 curved prow is even more emphatic in its resem- 
 blance to the Viking's ship, whence it may have de- 
 scended by the regular process of one generation 
 from another. 
 
 " Perhaps the most suggestive ornaments of the 
 boat are the four shields fixed to its gunwale. They 
 are round and wooden, with about a third of their 
 area raised above the ship's side as a protection to 
 the marauders." 
 
 Returning to Carl Johan's Gade we come to the 
 large square called Eidsvolds Plods, which is the 
 centre of life and gaiety and which is surrounded by 
 cafes and restaurants and extends as far as the 
 Storthingsbygningen (House of Parliament). This 
 building was completed in 18G6. In front of it 
 
 260
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 stand two granite lions by Borch. During the sit- 
 tings of Parliament the public is admitted to the 
 gallery. Behind the President's seat in the Storth- 
 ing's chamber is hung a large painting by Oscar 
 Wergeland, representing the first discussion of the 
 Norwegian Constitution at Eidsvold in 1814. On 
 the west side of Eidsvold Plads stands the National 
 Theatre, erected in 1895-1899 with colossal statues 
 of Ibsen and Bjornson. 
 
 Still walking eastwards down Carl Johan's Gade, 
 the next point of interest is the Stortorvet, or Torvet, 
 the main square or market place, on one side of 
 which rises the Cathedral of the diocese of Chris- 
 tiania Our Saviour's Church Vor Frelser's 
 Kirke, which was erected in 1695-1699 and restored 
 in 18491850. The altar-piece, representing Christ 
 in Gethsemane, is by the German artist Steinle of 
 Diisseldorf. In the middle of the square stands the 
 statue of Christian IV. by Jacobsen. On this square 
 also are the vegetable and meat markets; the Bank; 
 and the main fire brigade station. 
 
 Various streets radiate from this point, including 
 Stor Gaden (Main Street), in which some old trades 
 still flourish and the peasantry congregate. This 
 street leads to the River Aker. Grcensen, another 
 important street, connects this square with Akers 
 Gaden. The Norwegian silver-work, filigree-work, 
 enamel-work and glass-work are particularly famed, 
 and many shops where these specialties are sold aro 
 situated in Carl Johan's Gade, Kirke Gaden, Kon- 
 gen's Gade and Stor Gaden. 
 
 261
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 The next important street to Carl Johan is Akers 
 Gaden, which begins at Akershus Castle, leads past 
 the Houses of Parliament, crosses Carl Johan's 
 Gade and runs north a long distance beyond the 
 limits of the town. Until it reaches Grsensen, the 
 street is narrow, and this part of it in former days 
 was so dirty that it was called Svinesund (Pig 
 Sound) ; but now fine houses and buildings such as 
 the Courts of Justice and Government offices have 
 caused the past squalor to be forgotten. Here also 
 was erected in 1858 the Trefoldinghedskirke (Trin- 
 ity Church), a large brick building with a dome 
 containing handsome interior decorations, including 
 an altar-piece painted by Tidemand, representing the 
 Baptism of Christ, and a carved baptismal font of 
 kneeling angels with a shell. Behind Trinity 
 Church lies an old churchyard, consecrated during 
 the Plague of 1654, as is shown by a monument on 
 the left of the entrance. 
 
 Akers Gaden branches off at the Roman Catholic 
 Church of St. Olaf (St. OlafslcirJce), a brick Gothic 
 building of 1854, passes around the cemetery Vor 
 Frelsers Gravlund and to the old Aker's Church 
 (Gamle Akers Kirke), built of stone in the Eleventh 
 Century and restored in 1860-1861 when the pres- 
 ent spire was added. The roof is flat and supported 
 by enormous pillars. It is now closed to visitors; 
 and, therefore, we must depend upon the impressions 
 of a traveller in 1892, who wrote: 
 
 " We drove out to see the old Akers Church in 
 the suburb, which has a recorded existence of about 
 
 262
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 nine hundred years. We half expected to find it a 
 wooden oddity, like that of Borgund in the moun- 
 tains, which looks for all the world like a cluster of 
 conical belfries joined at the bases. No such thing, 
 however. Akers is a stone building, heavy and pris- 
 on-like as befits its era. Of architectural decoration 
 it has none. Its beauty lies in its grim strength and 
 the solidity of its granite columns. It has an ex- 
 quisite carved oak pulpit in keeping with the style 
 of the church massive and compact, and as different 
 as possible from the carved work of the Belgian ar- 
 tists in the great church of the Low Countries. 
 
 " While we sat admiring this pulpit a procession 
 of men and women trooped in with two babies in 
 their midst. It was a baptism. The children were 
 as quiet as the Norwegian winter. Even the palms 
 full of water upon their little foreheads did not 
 awaken them. The beruffled pastor made the service 
 impressive; the massive church added to the im- 
 pressiveness. Afterwards the god-parents, who had 
 been separated and placed on opposing sides accord- 
 ing to sex, filed past the altar and gave their offer- 
 ings, and the babes were taken back to the capital 
 to begin their life course." 
 
 North of the old grave yard and Gamle-Akers 
 Kirke is St. Hanshaugen (St. John's Hill), a sort 
 of garden or park where the city reservoir and water 
 works are situated, and where there are restaurants, 
 pretty walks, band-stands, pavilions and towers that 
 command beautiful views of the town and the fjord 
 with its islands. 
 
 263
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 On the east lies Oslo, which has been absorbed 
 by Christiania and is now a suburb. To all appear- 
 ances it is a modern town, for all the ancient build- 
 ings have long disappeared. 
 
 Its centre is the square called St. Halvards Plads, 
 where Bispe Gaden that runs from the harbor joins 
 Oslo Gade. At the point of intersection of these 
 streets stands the Lade Gaard (Farm House), which 
 during the Middle Ages was the palace of the Roman 
 Catholic bishops. The great event of historical in- 
 terest that took place in this house was the marriage 
 of James VI. of Scotland to Anne of Denmark, sister 
 of Christian IV., the founder of Christiania. The 
 princess left Christiania for Scotland on Sept. 5, 
 1589, with an escort of twelve war ships ; but, owing 
 to storms and an accident to the royal flagship, the 
 latter with three other ships sought shelter at Oslo 
 where the bride-elect was accommodated in the 
 Bishop's Palace. As she was about to return to 
 Denmark, she received news that the impatient King 
 James had sailed for Norway. He arrived on Nov. 
 19, and four days later the marriage was celebrated 
 in the Bishop's Palace, which was hung with rich 
 tapestry for the occasion. David Lindsay, the 
 King's chaplain, performed the ceremony. After 
 spending a month in Oslo, the King and Queen of 
 Scotland left in sledges for Denmark, where they 
 spent the winter. 
 
 On the other side of St. Halvard's Plads stands 
 the Bishop's Palace (Bispe Gaarden), originally the 
 old Dominican monastery , a part of which was 
 
 264
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 granted to the Roman Catholic bishops after the Ref- 
 ormation, during which they lost their residence 
 just described. This Palace, in which part of the 
 old monastery is incorporated, was rebuilt and ex- 
 tended in 1882-1884. 
 
 In the vicinity are situated Oslo Church and 
 churchyard, and the Oslo asylum, built around por- 
 tions of the old Franciscan monastery. From this 
 spot, the tourist has a choice of several roads by 
 which he may climb to the top of the Ekeberg, or 
 Egeburg Hill, the most attractive of which is the 
 Kongs Veien (King's Road) which winds through 
 beautiful woods all the way. Of the panorama that 
 is unfolded there an enthusiastic traveller writes: 
 
 " We ascended by numerous serpentine windings 
 the steep height of the Egeburg; looking down from 
 its summit, what a varied view is seen! The large 
 town at the end of the bay, in the midst of the coun- 
 try, spreading out in small divergent masses in every 
 direction, till it is at last lost in the distance among 
 villages, farm-houses and well-built country-houses. 
 There are ships in the harbor, ships behind the beau- 
 tiful little islands which front the bay, and other 
 sails appear in the distance. The majestic forms 
 of the steep hills rising in the horizon over other 
 hills, which bound the country to the westward, are 
 worthy of Claude Lorrain. I have long been seek- 
 ing for a resemblance to this country and to this 
 landscape: it is only to be found at Geneva on the 
 Savoy side, towards the Jura mountains; but the 
 Lake of Geneva does not possess the islands of the 
 
 265
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 fjord, nor the numerous ships and boats sailing in 
 every direction. Here the pleasure resulting from 
 the sight of the extraordinary and beautiful country 
 is heightened by the contemplation of human in- 
 dustry and activity." * 
 
 On the other side of Christiania lies another old 
 district called Bygdo, anciently known as Bygdey. 
 
 Bygdo, " the cultivated island," first appears in 
 history when King Haakon V. informed his bishops 
 and nobles that he had settled " Bygdey " upon his 
 bride, Euphemia, daughter of the Prince of Riigen. 
 This was inherited by her daughter, who granted it 
 in 1352 with several islands near Oslo to the monas- 
 tery of the Holy Virgin and St Edmund on the 
 island of Hovedo (near Akershus Castle), on con- 
 dition that they would say masses for her. At the 
 Reformation, Bygdo reverted with other monastic 
 possessions to the Crown, and was known as Lade 
 Gaardsoen (Farm Island). 
 
 JBygdo is separated from the mainland by two arms 
 of the Fjord the Kyles of Bestum and the Kyles 
 of Frogner between which a narrow neck barely 
 prevents Bygdo from being an island. Bygdo 
 may be reached by road or boat. Many beautiful 
 walks and drives are to be enjoyed here through syl- 
 van scenery. The portion of Bygdo that belongs to 
 the State consists of an old manor house known as 
 the Royal Farm of Bygdo, which is situated in a 
 lovely park, greatly frequented by the people of 
 Christiania on Sundays and holidays. The chief 
 * Von Buch. 
 266
 
 The City of Christiania 
 
 attraction of Bygdo, however, is Oscar's Hall, 
 which was erected by King Oscar I. in 18491852 
 for a pleasure seat, but which is not now used as 
 a dwelling. The main building consists of three 
 stories and a tall tower from which a beautiful view 
 is to be had. The dining-hall is in a separate build- 
 ing and is richly decorated with paintings. One 
 celebrated series representing Norwegian peasant 
 life is by Tidemand. The other rooms are deco- 
 rated with paintings and sculpture, and the castle 
 Contains quite a little collection of art objects. 
 
 In the grounds there are five buildings erected 
 by King Oscar II. to perpetuate some of the old 
 Norwegian architecture. These are the Gol Church, 
 an old timber building of the Twelfth or Thirteenth 
 Century with fine interior carvings, which stood at 
 Gol in Hallingdal until 1884; the Hovedstuen, or 
 house of a peasant proprietor built in 1738, removed 
 here from Telemarken and properly furnished; the 
 Starbur, or Storehouse, also from Telemarken; an 
 ancient Rogstue (smoke hut), a very ancient dwelling 
 with a hole in the roof for the smoke to escape, from 
 Saetersdalen; and a Barn from Gudbrandsdalen. 
 
 Not far from these is the Norwegian National 
 Museum modelled somewhat after that of Skansen 
 in Stockholm (see page 243). The entrance gate 
 is a reproduction of an old city gate of Bergen of 
 1628. Here we find reproductions and original 
 buildings of churches, cottages, old gates and door- 
 ways, etc. The Ridehus contains twenty-eight rooms 
 filled with furniture, pictures, textiles, and domestic 
 
 267
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 utensils from the various provinces of Norway. 
 There is also a restaurant here, the Gildestueun, 
 where concerts are given every evening. 
 
 Holmen Kollen on the northwest is the most popu- 
 lar pleasure resort of Christiania, both in summer 
 and winter. It is an extensive establishment on a 
 hill about 1,000 feet above the sea-level; and con- 
 sists of several wooden buildings all in the Nor- 
 wegian style, including hotels, a " sporting-house," 
 for cyclists in the summer, and skaters, snow-shoe 
 runners and tobogganers in the winter. There are also 
 pretty walks through the woods to the lake and the 
 Peisestuen (the " Hearth or Ingle Nook cottage ") 
 where light refreshments are sold. From this point 
 may be seen the clearing in the wood where the 
 famous Ski competition takes place every February, 
 and which all Christiania goes to see. It has been 
 called the " Christiania Derby." 
 
 A splendid road, opened in 1890 by the King of 
 Norway and the Emperor "William II. , after whom 
 it is named, leads to Frogner Sceter. 
 
 Frogner Saeter, formerly the "Villa Heftye," 
 was purchased by the city of Christiania in 1889. 
 This lies to the north-west of the city and was once 
 the great show place in the vicinity. The house of 
 Mr. Thomas Heftye, who died in 1886, stands 1,380 
 feet above the sea-level, and is converted into a 
 museum containing relics illustrative of Norwegian 
 domestic life. The view is beautiful. Near this 
 chalet several old Norwegian buildings have been 
 re-erected, including a peasant's cottage and other 
 
 268
 
 The City of Chrigtiania 
 
 quaint dwellings, as well as booths for rest and re- 
 freshment. At some distance beyond Tryvands 
 Hoiden there is also a special tower commanding an 
 extensive view, on the south as far as the Kattegat; 
 on the east toward the boundary of Sweden; on the 
 north the extensive forests of Nordmarken, where 
 the mountain peaks rise 2,000 to 3,000 feet; on the 
 west the snow capped fjelds of Hallingdal and Tele- 
 marken ; and below, the city encircled by green fields 
 and pine woods, and the blue waters of the Christi- 
 onia Fjord bright with islands and shipping. 
 
 269
 
 THE CITY OF EDINBURGH 
 
 THE MODERN ATHENS 
 
 T^DINBUBGH, the capital of Scotland, has a 
 *--^ world-wide fame for its natural and artificial 
 beauties. Foreign visitors and native admirers all 
 unite in praise of the varied charms of the city. 
 Thus, Sir David Wilkie, the painter, wrote: 
 
 ""What the tour of Europe was necessary to see 
 elsewhere, I now find congregated in this one city. 
 Here are alike the beauties of Prague and of Salz- 
 burg; here are the romantic sites of Orvieto and 
 Tivoli ; and here is all of the admired bays of Genoa 
 and Naples. Here indeed to the poetic fancy may 
 be found realized the Roman Capital and the Grecian 
 Acropolis." 
 
 The name Modern Athens was given to the city 
 on account of the similarity of the physical features 
 of Edinburgh with those of Athens. Stuart, the 
 author of " The Antiquities of Athens," first drew 
 attention to the resemblance. Dr. Clarke said that 
 the neighborhood of Athens is just the Highlands of 
 Scotland enriched with the splendid remains of art. 
 ~W. H. Williams also stated that the distant view of 
 Athens from the ^Egean Sea was considerably like 
 that of Edinburgh from the Firth of Forth " though 
 certainly the latter is considerably superior." 
 
 270
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 " Meditative people will find a charm in a certain 
 consonancy between the aspect of the city and its old 
 and stirring history. Few places, if any, offer a 
 more barbaric display of contrasts to the eye. In 
 the very midst stands one of the most satisfactory 
 crags in nature a Bass Rock upon dry land, rooted 
 in a garden, shaken by passing trains, carrying a 
 crown of battlements and turrets, and describing its 
 warlike shadow over the liveliest and brightest thor- 
 oughfare of the new town. From their smoky bee- 
 hives, ten stories high, the unwashed look down upon 
 the open squares and gardens of the wealthy; and 
 gay people sunning themselves along Princes Street, 
 with its mile of commercial palaces all beflagged 
 upon some great occasion, see, across a gardened val- 
 ley set with statues, the washings of the old town 
 flutter in the breeze at its high windows. And then, 
 upon all sides, what a clashing of architecture ! In 
 this one valley, where the life of the town goes most 
 busily forward, there may be seen, shown one above 
 and behind another by the accidents of the ground, 
 buildings in almost every style upon the globe. 
 Egyptian and Greek temples, Venetian palaces and 
 Gothic spires, are huddled one over another in a most 
 admired disorder; while, above all, the brute mass 
 of the Castle and the summit of Arthur's Seat look 
 down upon these imitations with a becoming dignity, 
 as the works of Nature may look down upon the 
 monuments of Art." * 
 
 Edinburgh is built on the slopes of three hills, 
 * Robert Louis Stevenson. 
 271
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 about a mile and a half south of the Firth of Forth, 
 which is here about six miles broad. It would be 
 hard to say now where Edinburgh ends and the old 
 port, Leith, begins. The city also extends to the 1 
 water at Newhaven and Granton. From its emi- 
 nences the view is extensive over sea and land from 
 the Isle of May lighthouse in the German Ocean to 
 Ben Ledi on the West. 
 
 The Castle Rock rises to a height of 385 feet and 
 dominates the scene for miles on every side. Its 
 strategic value was recognized very early. Roman 
 relics have been discovered nearby; and it was an 
 important hold of the Picts. Early in the Seventh 
 Century, Edwin, King of Northumbria, built a for- 
 tress here which was named after him, Edwin's-burg 
 (Gaelic, Dunedin). 
 
 Under Malcolm Canmore, whose wife Margaret 
 died there in 1092, and during the reigns of his three 
 sons, Edinburgh Castle was a royal residence. Un- 
 der its protection, the upper town rapidly grew and 
 prospered, attracting Anglo-Saxon and Norman col- 
 onists. 
 
 Malcolm's son, the pious David I., founded the 
 Abbey of Holyrood, and gave the canons the right 
 to build a burgh between them and the city. This 
 was called the Canongate. The Abbey served as a 
 royal palace, or, at least, afforded occasional accom- 
 modation to the Scottish sovereigns in the days be- 
 fore they adopted Edinburgh as their permanent 
 capital. 
 
 The Kings of Scotland who reigned before the 
 272
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 Stuarts held their courts in various towns. On the 
 murder of James I. in 1437 at Perth, it was felt 
 that a strong fortress was needed to protect the crown 
 from the attacks of the powerful nobles. The 
 widowed Queen and her son James II. removed to 
 Edinburgh, which was thenceforth the capital of the 
 Kingdom. In 1452, James II. by charter made 
 Edinburgh pre-eminent over the other burghs, and 
 the first city wall was erected. James III. also 
 favored the city, and raised it to a sheriffdom 
 within itself, and gave to the incorporated trades a 
 banner under which they gathered at need and which 
 his descendant James VI. contemptuously called the 
 " Blue Blanket." This is still preserved in the 
 Trades Maiden Hospital. The city was soon forced 
 to expand. The new town spread over the valley to 
 the south, the Cowgate being the main thoroughfare. 
 On the death of James IV. and the flower of his 
 nobility at the Battle of Flodden in 1513, a new 
 protecting wall was built enclosing the Cowgate and 
 land occupied by Greyfriars' Church, Heriot's Hos- 
 pital, etc. The Canongate was not included, as it 
 belonged to Holyrood. 
 
 The Cowgate runs parallel with the original main 
 street called High Street, and was connected with it 
 by more than a hundred narrow alleys or closes 
 threading the maze of lofty houses. 
 
 During the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries 
 Edinburgh suffered several times by English inva- 
 sion and by warring native factions. Sometimes the 
 Castle was too strong to be taken. The town was 
 
 273
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the scene of many tragedies of persecution and in- 
 tolerance during the religious disturbances of that 
 period of rebellion and fanaticism. 
 
 After the death of James V. in 1542, Cardinal 
 Beaton acted as Regent and allied Scotland with 
 France against England. Henry VIII. issued fero- 
 cious orders to the Earl of Hertford to invade Scot- 
 land: 
 
 " There to put all to fire and sword, to burn Edin- 
 burgh town and to raze and deface it, when you have 
 sacked it and gotten what you can of it. Sack Holy- 
 rood House and as many towns and villages about 
 Edinburgh as ye conveniently can. Sack Leith, and 
 burn and subvert it, and all the rest, putting man, 
 woman and child to fire and sword without exception 
 when any resistance shall be made against you. 
 The accomplishment of all this shall be most accept- 
 able to the majesty and honour of the King." 
 
 Consequently, in May, 1544, the Earl of Hertford 
 landed at Leith, took Blackness Castle and demanded 
 the unconditional surrender of the city. He had 
 come to punish the Scots for their detestable false- 
 hood, to declare and show the force of his highness's 
 sword to all such as would resist him. On the re- 
 ceipt of a defiant answer, the English blew in Canon- 
 gate, and for two days Edinburgh was pillaged and 
 burned. The invaders, after unsuccessfully bom- 
 barding the Castle, seized the ships in Leith harbor, 
 loaded them with spoil and sailed back to Berwick. 
 
 Three years later the English again invaded Scot- 
 land; and at Musselburgh, about six miles from 
 
 274
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 Edinburgh, the last battle was fought between Eng- 
 land and Scotland as independent kingdoms. On 
 the day following the disastrous battle, in which ten 
 thousand Scots were slain, the victorious English 
 burnt Leith; but the infant Queen Mary was re- 
 moved to Stirling for safety; and the invaders re- 
 treated for lack of provisions. 
 
 In 1550, Adam Wallace was burned on Castle 
 Hill for calling the mass an abomination, but the 
 Reformation was working and in June, 1559, the 
 forces of the Lords of the Congregation took posses- 
 sion of Edinburgh, demolished its altars, seized the 
 coining irons of the Mint and the Regent retired to 
 Dunbar. 
 
 After the defeat and flight into England of Queen 
 Mary in 1568, the Castle of Edinburgh was held in 
 her interest by Kirkaldy of Grange. When the Earl 
 of Morton became regent, he obtained aid from Eng- 
 land. Early in 1573, fifteen hundred English 
 troops and a train of artillery arrived, and the Castle 
 surrendered in May. The garrison was released, 
 but the governor and his brother were hanged at the 
 Cross of Edinburgh. Mary's party in Scotland was 
 then completely subdued. 
 
 In 1645, the city was laid waste by plague. Eive 
 years later, it was captured by Cromwell, the Castle 
 also capitulating. On the accession of Charles II. 
 in 1660, Edinburgh saw a bitter persecution of the 
 Covenanters which lasted for a generation. 
 
 At the Revolution of 1689, there were serious 
 disturbances in which the students of the University 
 
 275
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 were very active; but the Duke of Gordon who held 
 the Castle for James II. surrendered in June, 1689. 
 The Act of Union of 1707 was very unpopular in 
 Edinburgh, where a reaction was felt in favor of 
 the exiled House of Stuart. In 1745, during the 
 second Jacobite rebellion, Charles the Young Pre- 
 tender was welcomed in Edinburgh and held court 
 in Holyrood Palace as King of Scotland for a short 
 time; but he failed to gain the Castle. 
 
 In 1618, the city wall was finally extended. A 
 portion of this is still visible in the Vennel, south of 
 the Grassmarket and west of Heriot's Hospital. 
 
 Within the walls the population multiplied, and 
 the houses crowded together and rose high into the 
 air. Until the middle of the Eighteenth Century, 
 the growing population was housed by utilizing 
 every square yard of available space and substituting 
 tall buildings (locally called lands) for low ones and 
 projecting from them overhanging timber additions. 
 In this way were developed the narrow alleys and 
 closes that covered the northern and southern slopes 
 of the ridge along which ran the main street of the 
 Old Town. 
 
 Confined within her walls, Edinburgh grew not 
 in area but in height and density. Even after the 
 Act of Union of the Parliaments of England and 
 Scotland, the city kept largely within the walls, as 
 if she might still need their shield against the in- 
 vader. Until the middle of the Eighteenth Century, 
 Edinburgh was content to occupy only the ground 
 included in the Old Town. Of the Mediaeval town, 
 
 276
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 no buildings remain except parts of the Castle and 
 St. Giles; of the present Holyrood Palace, only two 
 towers date as far back as the reign of James V. 
 (1513-1542). 
 
 " In all that concerns cleanliness and comfort and 
 decent living, Old Edinburgh was not so much de- 
 ficient as according to our notions impossible. Even 
 its best folk had only the life of to-day's working 
 man. A country gentleman, a successful lawyer, 
 and with a seat on the bench almost within reach, 
 pays 15 a year for his house. It consists of three 
 rooms and a kitchen. One room was for the law- 
 yer's consultations and study, another was my lady's 
 parlour, the third was a bedroom, where a whole 
 household slept, save that the housemaid reposed 
 tinder the kitchen dresser, and the man servant 
 found his nightly lodging elsewhere. And of course 
 things were still worse among the trades-people. An 
 eminent goldsmith had a shop in a booth stuck on 
 a wall of St. Giles Church, the nursery and kitchen 
 however being placed in a cellar under the level of 
 the street, where the children are said to have rotted 
 off like sheep. There was scarce a room in the whole 
 city without a bed; there was very little water, and 
 that was laboriously conveyed by caddies to the tops 
 of the tall houses ; pigs were kept under projections 
 towards the street in which during the day they 
 sought their food; as the ground was uneven some 
 of the houses were much taller on one side than the 
 other, there being as many as fifteen stories in them. 
 The closes, as you may see for yourself, are not 
 
 277
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 very broad, and at the top the houses almost touched. 
 Too little space, too little water, too little light ; how 
 strange were the domesticities of those old citizens ! 
 And nearly everybody drank too much, washed too 
 little, swore horribly and lived roughly. 
 
 " Nature and history had shut all within a narrow 
 limit. On the north the Nor' Loch and the Ravine 
 prevented building until in 1767 the North Bridge 
 was thrown across, and the New Town was made. 
 To the west was the Castle Rock, and a wall hemmed 
 in the remainder of the city. Thus the builder, 
 since he could not go abroad, must go high. Even 
 when the Union was an accomplished fact, and the 
 walls were mere obstruction, the antique methods of 
 building and of living but slowly gave way." * 
 
 In 1788, the North Bridge, which had been com- 
 pleted in 1769, connecting the Old Town with the 
 fields on the north, was extended southward forming 
 the South Bridge which spans the Cowgate and thus 
 made a level way to the southern suburbs. A short 
 distance to the westward George the Fourth's Bridge 
 was erected and later Regent's Bridge, Waterloo 
 Place, which spans the valley between Princes Street 
 and the Calton Hill and the Dean Bridge over the 
 Water of Leith. The new North Bridge was begun 
 in 1896. Of late years, many old streets have been 
 cut through or widened. 
 
 The Castle is situated on a high rock that descends 
 almost perpendicularly on three sides, and slopes 
 gradually on the east to Holyrood. 
 * Henderson. 
 278
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 Malcolm Canmore left Queen Margaret here when 
 he and his sons invaded England in 1093 ; and on 
 hearing the news of his death she fell ill and died. 
 Her body was secretly carried down the west cliffs 
 when the news was received of a new claimant to the 
 throne. Edinburgh Castle surrendered to Henry 
 II. in 1174, and was captured in 1296 by Edward I. 
 and held by the English until, in 1312, Bruce's fol- 
 lowers scaled the southern cliff which had until then 
 been deemed inaccessible. Edward Baliol returned 
 it to the English ; Edward III. refortified it ; and in 
 1341 Sir William Douglas recovered it by strata- 
 gem. One of the greatest attacks it sustained was 
 the siege of thirty-three days for Mary Queen of 
 Scots against the Regent Morton and his English 
 support under Sir William Drury; but it was forced 
 to capitulate. Cromwell also took the Castle in 
 1650, after the Battle of Dunbar, and threatened to 
 blow up the historic pile ; and in 1745 it refused to 
 open its gates to Prince Charles Edward Stuart 
 
 The outer gateway, built in 1882, leads to a 
 vaulted archway called the Portcullis Gate, over 
 which is the Constable's, or Argyll, Tower, the old 
 State Prison. This tower was built by David II. in 
 1369; and fell in the siege of 1573. It was re- 
 stored in 1890. The road winds and passes through 
 another gateway to a platform that commands a 
 magnificent view. On it stands the famous piece of 
 artillery called " Mons Meg," said by some authori- 
 ties to have been made at Mons in Hainault in 1846, 
 while others say it was made at Castle Douglas in 
 
 279
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Galloway and given to James II. at the siege of 
 Thrieve Castle in 1455. It is repeatedly mentioned 
 in Scottish history. 
 
 Mons Meg stands in front of St. Margaret's 
 Chapel, which is the oldest building. It occupies 
 the very summit of the rock. Some authorities be- 
 lieve this was the chapel in which Queen Margaret, 
 the wife of Malcolm Canmore, worshipped. If so, 
 it is the oldest ecclesiastical building in Scotland. 
 It is small only sixteen feet by ten. The chapel 
 was restored in 1853. 
 
 Beyond the platform is situated tne Half-Moon 
 Battery, from which royal salutes and the time gun 
 are fired, the signal for which is given by a ball 
 dropped on the top of Nelson's Monument on the 
 Calton Hill. 
 
 Beyond the Half-Moon Battery is a quadrangle, 
 called Palace-Yard, on the south side of which is 
 situated the Great Hall, and on the east side the 
 old Palace. The former, also called Parliament 
 Hall, is 84 feet by 33 feet, and has an open timber 
 roof 45 feet high. This splendid room was built in 
 1424, and was used for state receptions. Here the 
 Earl of Leven entertained Cromwell in 1648. It 
 was restored in 1892 ; and until then had been used 
 as a sort of store room for the military hospital for 
 two hundred years. 
 
 The Palace dates from the Fifteenth Century, 
 with additions of 1566 and 1516. In the south- 
 east corner are the apartments occupied by the regent 
 Mary de Guise and her daughter, Mary Stuart, and 
 
 280
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 in the small room on the ground floor, James VI. 
 was born on June 19, 1566. Another interesting 
 apartment is the Crown Room, in which the regalia 
 or the " Honors of Scotland," as these treasures are 
 called, are preserved within an iron cage. They 
 comprise a crown supposed to date from the days of 
 Robert Bruce but ornamented with gold bands by 
 James V. in 1536, and last used at the Coronation 
 of Charles II. at Scone in 1651; a sceptre, made in 
 1536; and a magnificent sword of state given to 
 James IV. by Pope Julius II. Various jewels, 
 badges, orders, etc., belong also to this collection. 
 
 The Arsenal is on the west side of the Castle and 
 contains a fine display of arms and armor of vari- 
 ous dates. The Picture Gallery (150 feet long, 27 
 feet broad and 18 feet high) is hung with some valu- 
 able old pictures and a number of fancy portraits of 
 ancient Scottish kings. In this hall, the represen- 
 tative Peers of Scotland are elected. 
 
 From the Castle, a straight thoroughfare a mile 
 long, called successively Lawnmarket, High Street 
 and Canongate leads to Holyrood Palace. 
 
 Castle Hill of old was occupied by the mansions 
 of the nobility. These have all been destroyed by 
 fire, or by modern improvements. 
 
 From this place, the famous West Bow wound 
 down to the Grassmarket. Though now transformed 
 into a flight of steps, it was formerly the principal 
 way by which carriages reached the high ground of 
 the city. It took its name from the bow or arch in 
 the wall that formed the western gateway of the city. 
 
 281
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 The Grassmarket was the place of public execu- 
 tion from 1666 to 1784. The hangman's cart con- 
 veyed the condemned to the scaffold down the steep 
 West Bow. Among the most famous of these, the 
 Marquis of Montrose and the Earl of Argyle may 
 be mentioned. The Covenanters were burned in the 
 Grassmarket. At the east end of the square a circle 
 enclosing a cross marks the spot where the gibbet 
 stood. The Castle Hill was the scene of many witch 
 burnings. 
 
 From the Grassmarket, Candlemakers Row will 
 take us to Greyfriars Church and Burying Ground, 
 formerly a garden belonging to the monastery of the 
 Grey Friars, founded by James I. 
 
 " The Friars must have had a pleasant time on 
 summer evenings ; for their gardens were situated to 
 a wish, with the tall castle and the tallest of the 
 castle crags in front. Even now, it is one of our 
 famous Edinburgh points of view ; and strangers are 
 led thither to see, by yet another instance, how 
 strangely the city lies upon her hills. The inclosure 
 is of an irregular shape; the double church of Old 
 and ]STew Greyfriars stands on the level at the top; 
 a few thorns are dotted here and there, and the 
 ground falls by terrace and steep slope toward the 
 north. The open shows many slabs and table tomb- 
 stones; and all round the margin, the place is girt 
 by an array of aristocratic mausoleums appallingly 
 adorned." * 
 
 Old Greyfriars Church, erected in 1612 and 
 * Robert Louis Stevenson. 
 282
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 burned in 1845, was notable as being the place where 
 the Covenant was signed on March 1, 1638, from 
 which the popular party received the name of Cove- 
 nanters. The paper waa signed on the tomb of Bos- 
 well of Auchinleck by many nobles and gentry, then 
 by three hundred ministers and a great multitude of 
 the people. 
 
 The New Greyfriars Church, built in 1721, con- 
 tains little of interest. 
 
 " In the ancient graveyard of Greyfriars Church, 
 which contains the dust of all the contending fac- 
 tions of Scottish history where the monument of 
 the Covenanters recounts their praises almost within 
 sight of the Grassmarket where they died; where 
 rest the noblest leaders both of the moderate and of 
 the stricter party there rises another stately sepul- 
 chre, at once the glory and the shame of Scottish lib- 
 erals. It is the ponderous tomb, bolted and barred, 
 of Sir George Mackenzie, the Lord Advocate under 
 James II. He it is of whom Davie Deans has said 
 that ( he will be kenned by the name of Bluidy Mac- 
 kenzie so long as there's a Scot's tongue to speak the 
 word.' " * 
 
 In this churchyard, the 1,200 prisoners taken at 
 Bothwell Brig in 1679 were penned under brutal 
 conditions because there was no prison large enough 
 to hold them. 
 
 On the summit of a ridge lying between the Grass- 
 market and the Meadows and adjoining Greyfriars 
 Churchyard stands Heriot's Hospital, a charity 
 * Dean Stanley. 
 283
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 school founded by George Heriot, the goldsmith and 
 banker to James VI. of Scotland and I. of Eng- 
 land, who, dying in 1624, left property to build a 
 hospital for the maintenance and education of poor 
 boys. A fine description is given of this donor in 
 Scott's " Fortunes of Nigel." Heriot's Hospital was 
 begun in 1628 and finished in 1650, and is a noble 
 quadrangular edifice in the transitional style of the 
 Stuarts. There is much elaborate detail upon it and 
 of its two hundred windows no two are alike. It 
 is adorned with towers and turrets, and a fine gate- 
 way leads into a quadrangle. A statue of Heriot 
 is placed above the entrance. It was used for a 
 time as a hospital for Cromwell's soldiers. 
 
 Entering High Street from the Lawnmarket, St. 
 Giles's Church is on the right. This edifice, which 
 has suffered so many mutilations, was built gradu- 
 ally from the Twelfth to the Fifteenth Century, and 
 originally possessed great architectural beauty. The 
 square central tower, surmounted with flying but- 
 tresses that form a kind of open crown, still remains, 
 and is one of the most imposing architectural fea- 
 tures of the city. A narrow passage led from the 
 Old Tolbooth to St. Giles; and from 1639 to 1817 
 a number of small shops called Krames, built out- 
 side against the walls, existed. Booksellers and jew- 
 ellers occupied locked shops called Luckenbooths 
 that extended halfway across High Street on the 
 north side. 
 
 On High Street, we pass the County Buildings, 
 erected in 1902-3, and a bronze statue to the fifth 
 
 284
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 Duke of Buccleuch. To the east of this a peculiar 
 memorial of the past is to be seen, a heart picked 
 out with stones in the pavement the " Heart of 
 Midlothian," to mark the site of the old Tolbooth, 
 or Toll House, which was pulled down in 1817. 
 The latter was built about 1466, and was the Par- 
 liament House of- Scotland till 1640, when the new 
 one, now the Supreme Courts, was built on the 
 south side of Parliament Square. The Old Tol- 
 booth became a prison: heads of offenders were ex- 
 posed on a platform facing the Lawnmarket, and 
 public executions took place here after 1784. Scott 
 in " The Heart of Midlothian " describes the " an- 
 cient prison, which, as is well known to all men, 
 rears its ancient front in the very middle of the High 
 Street, forming, as it were, the termination to a 
 huge pile of buildings called the Luckenbooths, 
 which, for some inconceivable reason, our ancestors 
 had jammed into the midst of the principal street 
 of the town, leaving for passage a narrow street on 
 the north, and on the south, into which the prison 
 opens, a narrow crooked lane, winding betwixt the 
 high and sombre walls of the Tolbooth and the ad- 
 jacent houses on the one side, and the buttresses and 
 projections of the old Cathedral upon the other. To 
 give some gaiety to this sombre passage, well known 
 by the name of the Krames, a number of little booths 
 or shops, after the fashion of cobblers' stalls, are 
 plastered, as it were, against the Gothic projections 
 and abutments, so that it seemed as if the traders 
 had occupied with nests, bearing the same propor- 
 
 285
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 tion to the building, every buttress and coign of van- 
 tage, as the martlet did in Macbeth's castle. Of 
 later years these booths have degenerated into mere 
 toy-shops, where the little loiterers chiefly interested 
 in such wares are tempted to linger, enchanted by 
 the rich display of hobby-horses, babies and Dutch 
 toys, arranged in artful and gay confusion ; yet half- 
 scared by the cross looks of the withered pantaloon, 
 or spectacled oid lady, by whom these tempting stores 
 are watched and superintended. But in the times 
 we write of the hosiers, the glovers, the hatters, the 
 mercers, the milliners, and all who dealt in the mis- 
 cellaneous wares now termed haberdashers' goods, 
 were to be found in this narrow alley." 
 
 St. Giles's has had strange experiences: at dif- 
 ferent times it has been used as a church, a grammar 
 school, the Courts of Justice, the town-clerk's office, 
 a prison, and the storehouse of the machinery of the 
 the gallows. 
 
 In 1466, King James II. made it a Collegiate 
 Church; and at the beginning of the Reformation 
 in Scotland it had thirty-six altars. These, together 
 with the rood-loft, were destroyed by the Reformers; 
 and the statue of St. Giles, the patron saint, was 
 thrown into the Nor' Loch by the mob. The church 
 was then divided into four separate places of worship 
 and the sacred relics and vessels were sold and the 
 money used for the repair and maintenance of the 
 building. Very little respect was paid to the sacred 
 precincts. Parts of it were used for shops and cor- 
 porate offices; and even criminals were detained 
 
 286
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 there. John Knox, who was minister there from 
 1559 to 1572, conducted divine service in the de- 
 lapidated church. Kirkaldy of Grange fortified and 
 defended it against the Regent Morton in 1571. 
 
 Before taking his departure to become King of 
 England in 1603, James VI. of Scotland made a 
 farewell address in this church to his loving subjects, 
 promising to uphold Presbyterianism and visit Scot- 
 land once every three years at least. However, he 
 did not return for fourteen years, and he endeavored 
 to re-establish Episcopacy in Scotland. 
 
 His luckless son, Charles I., tried to force the 
 episcopal form of church government on the Scots, 
 and in 1634, Edinburgh was made a bishopric with 
 St. Giles as the cathedral. "When the dean attempted 
 to read the new liturgy, that was drawn up by Arch- 
 bishop Laud, from the pulpit for the first time, 
 Jenny Geddes flung her cutty-stool at his head, and 
 the service ended in an uproar. The bishop, Lind- 
 say, was saved from the violence of the enraged mob 
 with difficulty (1637). 
 
 The church contains the monuments of several 
 eminent men. That of the Regent Murray is a fac- 
 simile reproduction of the one destroyed in 1829. 
 There are also memorials of the Marquis of Mon- 
 trose and Napier of Merchiston, who were buried 
 here. 
 
 Outside the church, on the north-east stands the 
 Old City Cross, restored and mounted on a new ped- 
 estal at the expense of Mr. Gladstone in 1885. It 
 is a stone shaft about twenty feet high, surmounted 
 
 287
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 by a unicorn, the original of which was destroyed 
 by Cromwell. It was removed from its conspicuous 
 position in the High Street (now marked by a circle 
 of stones in the causeway) to the park at Drum near 
 Dalkeith; and was brought back in 1866. It was 
 the centre around which scholars, merchants and 
 gossips congregated. On the king's birthday, in the 
 days of the Georges, his health was drunk by the 
 magistrates from a platform in front of it. The 
 scaffold was erected beside it until 1666. From it 
 State proclamations were, and are now again, made 
 by heralds. Here the Young Pretender was pro- 
 claimed King of England and Scotland in 1745. 
 
 " On the site of the Cross, what terrible mem- 
 ories, what keen emotions those memories bring 
 forth ! There is Kirkaldy of Grange swinging from 
 his gibbet in the sun and slowly lifting up his bound 
 hands as Knox had foretold of him; or Montrose, 
 like the gallant gentleman he was, goes proud and 
 fearless to his doom; or again, his opponent Argyll, 
 not less calmly takes his last look on the familiar 
 scene before he lays his head down on the block and 
 all is over; or Claverhouse, at the head of his horse, 
 thunders over the rough stones of the street on his 
 way to the north to Killiecrankie and death and 
 fame; or a young Prince, handsome and debonair, 
 rides along in the front of victorious forces to take 
 possession of the palace of his ancestors." 
 
 Parliament Square, on the south of St. Giles's, 
 was once part of the churchyard. It contains an 
 * Henderson. 
 288
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 equestrian statue of Charles II. that was cast in Hol- 
 land and set up the year the king died. Close by it 
 a square stone inscribed " I. K. 1572 " marks tho 
 grave of John Knox. The house where he is said 
 to have lived is on the High Street where it nar- 
 rows beyond the intersection with the North and 
 South Bridge. It juts into the street with an exte- 
 rior staircase, and the rooms are small, dark and low. 
 It is probably the only example of a Sixteenth Cen- 
 tury dwelling still standing in the Old Town. 
 
 Canongate is a continuation of High Street and 
 leads to Holyrood. Originally belonging to the Ab- 
 bey, it was occupied by the Canons and thus received 
 its name. As it was close to the Palace, naturally 
 enough the nobility built houses here, but their glory 
 has now departed. Moray House, built in 1628 by 
 the Countess of Home, is now a normal school. In 
 1645, it was owned by the Countess of Moray and 
 from one of the balconies the Marquis of Argyll, en- 
 joying the wedding festivities of his son with the 
 Countess's daughter in 1650, watched Montrose 
 borne in a cart to the Old Tolbooth. Cromwell used 
 this house as headquarters in 1648 and in 1650. 
 
 The Canongate Tolbooth stands opposite; it was 
 built in 1591 for a jail and court-house; but is now 
 a register and revenue office. This must not be con- 
 fused with the Old Tolbooth that stood next to St. 
 Giles's. 
 
 An old Cross once stood in the centre of the street. 
 A more modern one, dating from 1688 was placed in 
 front of the Canongate Church. 
 
 289
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 A very interesting timber house dating from 1570, 
 called the Speaking House and Queensberry House, 
 a handsome building in the style of a French cha- 
 teau, the residence of the Duke of Queensberry and 
 where Gay lived while he was secretary to the 
 Duchess, are on the right side. The latter is now 
 a House of Refuge. Opposite was situated the fa- 
 mous "White Horse Inn. I^ear the Palace is a little 
 turreted building known as Queen Mary's Bath, 
 through which the murderers of Rizzio escaped. 
 
 A fountain, copied from one at Linlithgow Pal- 
 ace, and standing in front of Holyrood Palace, was 
 a gift from the Prince Consort. 
 
 One day when King David I. was hunting in the 
 forest of Drumsheugh, he was in great danger of 
 being wounded by a stag at bay, but a bright cross 
 suddenly appeared which put the animal to flight. 
 To commemorate his miraculous deliverance, King 
 David founded the Abbey of the Holy Cross, Holy- 
 rood Abbey. 
 
 Of the old abbey only the nave and some other 
 fragments remain in the existing Royal Chapel on 
 the north side of the Palace. The nave is large, con- 
 sisting of eight bays and aisles. The rest of the 
 church chiefly belongs to the Twelfth Century, but 
 has suffered greatly from fires. Many royal wed- 
 dings took place here, including those of James II. 
 and James III., and here Mary Stuart was married 
 to Darnley on July 29, 1565. Holyrood was made 
 the parish church of the Canongate in 1569; was 
 magnificently fitted up by Charles I., who was 
 
 290
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 crowned here; and Charles II. made it the Chapel 
 Royal. In 1688 the mob destroyed it because mass 
 had been celebrated here. Holyrood Chapel has been 
 several times restored. In this chapel were buried 
 James V. and his wife; Rizzio, and Lord Darn- 
 ley. 
 
 Queen Mary's apartments, consisting of an audi- 
 ence chamber, a bedroom and two small cabinets, 
 contain some old furniture, and communicate by a 
 private stair in the wall with the rooms occupied by 
 Darnley below. In one of the small cabinets, the 
 murder of Rizzio took place, and his body was 
 thrown down this staircase the top of which enters 
 the bedroom. 
 
 Queen Mary was also married to Bothwell in 
 Holyrood, but not in the church. 
 
 The Palace of Holyrood was built by James IV. 
 and James V. and was burned twice by the English ; 
 once in 1544, and by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. 
 The only portion that escaped was the apartments 
 occupied by Mary Stuart after her return from 
 France in 1561. The rest of the Palace was rebuilt 
 in 167179 after the model of the Chateau of Chan- 
 tilly in France. 
 
 South of Holyrood is the King's Park in which 
 Arthur's Seat is situated, a lofty eminence, 823 feet 
 high, named for the legendary King of Round Table 
 fame, commanding a superb view. There is a tradi- 
 tion that whoever will walk to Arthur's Seat on May 
 Day and wash his or her face in the dew at sunrise 
 will remain beautiful for a year. 
 
 291
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 The best view of the city is to be obtained from 
 Calton Hill. 
 
 " The east of new Edinburgh is guarded by a 
 craggy hill, of no great elevation, which the town 
 embraces. The old London road runs on one side 
 of it; while the Xew Approach, leaving it on the 
 other hand, completes the circuit. You mount by 
 stairs in a cutting of the rock to find yourself in a 
 field of monuments. Dugald Stewart has the honors 
 of situation and architecture ; Burns is memorialized 
 lower down upon a spur; Lord Nelson, as befits a 
 sailor, gives his name to the top-gallant of the Cal- 
 ton Hill. But the chief feature is an unfinished 
 range of columns, ' the Modern Ruin ' as it has been 
 called, an imposing object from far and near, and 
 giving Edinburgh, even from the sea, that false air 
 of a Modern Athens which has earned for her so 
 many slighting speeches. The old Observatory a 
 quaint brown building on the edge of the steep and 
 the new Observatory a classical edifice with a dome 
 occupy the central portion of the summit. All 
 these are scattered on a green turf, browsed over by 
 some sheep. 
 
 " Immediately underneath upon the south, you 
 command the yards of the High School, and the 
 towers and courts of the new Jail a large place, 
 castellated to the extent of folly, standing by itself 
 on the edge of a steep cliff, and often joyfully hailed 
 by tourists as the Castle. 
 
 " From the bottom of the valley, a gigantic chim- 
 ney rises almost to the level of the eye, a taller and 
 
 292
 
 r: 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 t> 
 
 CQ 
 Z
 
 The City of Edinburgh 
 
 a shapelier edifice than Nelson's Monument. Look 
 a little further, and there is Holyrood Palace. By 
 way of an outpost, you can single out the little peak- 
 roofed lodge, over which Rizzio's murderers made 
 their escape and where Queen Mary herself, accord- 
 ing to gossip, bathed in white wine to entertain her 
 loveliness. Behind and overhead, lie the Queen's 
 Park, from Muschat's Cairn to Dumbiedykes, St. 
 Margaret's Loch, and the long wall of Salisbury 
 Crags; and thence, by knoll and rocky bulwark and 
 precipitous slope, the eye rises to the top of Arthur's 
 Seat, a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of 
 its bold design. This upon your left. Upon the 
 right, the roofs and spires of the Old Town climb 
 one above another to where the citadel prints its 
 broad bulk and jagged crown of bastions on the 
 western sky. To complete the view, the eye enfilades 
 Princes Street, black with traffic, and has a broad 
 look over the valley between the Old Town and the 
 New: here, full of railway trains and stepped over 
 by the high North Bridge upon its many columns, 
 and there, green with trees and gardens." 
 
 On the northwest side of Calton Hill is Greenside, 
 a natural amphitheatre much resorted to in the old 
 days. It was a favorite tilting-ground, and plays 
 were acted here sometimes in the presence of the 
 court. It was also the scene of the death of heretics 
 and witches at the stake. 
 
 The New Town has all been built on a plan pro- 
 posed by James Craig in 1768 and modified in 1774. 
 The new terrace that was to outshine the old High 
 
 293
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Street was called St. Giles's Street after the patron 
 saint of the city; but George III. had it altered to 
 Princes Street in honor of the Prince of Wales. 
 This famous highway of the New Town, which has 
 been called the finest street in Europe, is a mile long 
 and quite straight; and is separated from the Old 
 Town by the extensive and beautiful Princes Street 
 Gardens which occupy the ground formerly covered 
 by the waters of the Nor' Loch. Near the east end 
 of Princes Street, on the south side, is the Scott 
 Monument, an elegant Gothic structure designed by 
 G. M. Kemp, a native architect who died before it 
 was completed in 1844. It is two hundred feet high 
 and two hundred and eighty-seven steps lead to the 
 top gallery. Four arched and pinnacled buttresses 
 support a central tower which rises in diminishing 
 courses and ends in a pinnacle. The niches are 
 filled with sculptural impersonations of the novel- 
 ist's principal characters. Beneath the canopy of the 
 monument is a statue of Sir Walter seated and at- 
 tended by his favorite dog Bevis. 
 
 294
 
 THE CITY OF DUBLIN 
 
 DUBLIN is beautifully situated on the banks of 
 the Liffey that flows into the Bay of Dublin, 
 which has been compared in picturesque charm to the 
 Bay of Naples. This sheet of water is six miles broad, 
 with a sweep of sixteen miles, and is surrounded by 
 hills that tower about five hundred feet on the north 
 and south. On the north arm of the Bay rises the 
 hill of Howth, with its castle and the Bailey Light- 
 house, a landmark for many miles out at sea, stand- 
 ing on a perpendicular rock, 134 feet above the 
 water. Below the waves break upon the outlying 
 rocks of the " Lion's Head " and the " Needles," or 
 " Candlesticks." On the south of the Bay lies the 
 artificial harbor of Kingstown, the principal station 
 for the yacht clubs in Ireland, where the yearly re- 
 gattas are held. All the way between Kingstown 
 and Dublin, the country is beautifully cultivated, and 
 displays a constant succession of terraces, villas, 
 wooded parks and country-houses, with the Dublin 
 mountains for a background. 
 
 " Dublin's attraction must be due partly to its 
 wholesome sea air and its delightful surroundings; 
 for it is planted on one of the most admirable bays 
 and among rising fields behind which olive hills un- 
 dulate. These first catch your eye when you enter 
 
 295
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 the bay; they begin with the long headland of 
 Howth, thence wind inland and come back to the 
 sea at Killiney, and thence wander close to it. !N"o 
 town was ever more fortunately placed, or more con- 
 stantly dogged by misfortune. You feel this at 
 once : for from the first you are aware of Celtic res- 
 ignation to sorrow. Dublin was first called (it is 
 said) Bally ath-Cliath, the Castle at the Ford of the 
 Hurdles, and then Dubh-linn, the Black Stream, 
 from its dark river ; and it preserved this Celtic title 
 throughout the long control of the Danes, though 
 elsewhere, as in Wexford or Waterford, they named 
 their strong towns. In the same way, despite the 
 longer domination of England, it remains Celtic. 
 
 " In the heart of the quiet city you come on a huge 
 solid tower ; this is all that is left of the Castle, the 
 fortress that loomed over Ireland. In Queen Eliza- 
 beth's time it shadowed the life of the furthest clans ; 
 there was no chief, however remote his country 
 might be, who did not dread it as a probable dun- 
 geon, and reflect that his head might blacken above 
 it, spiked on its roof. Shane the Proud's head rotted 
 there, food for the crows. Within its walls many 
 were tortured, and even its rulers, the Deputies, were 
 acquainted with suffering; Kildare and Perrot and 
 Essex and Strafford saw calamity coming, and from 
 the Castle found their way to the Tower. Now its 
 old strength has departed; the wide moat has van- 
 ished, and so has one of the twin strongholds, and 
 the other remains an obsolete hulk. 
 
 " If you are concerned with the past, you can find 
 296
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 many old houses linked with desperate rebels, or 
 with hunted informers; but these remembrances ap- 
 pear quite as unnatural as those of the Castle. Dub- 
 lin looks as if it was built for pleasure and quiet- 
 ness; indeed it has a curious resemblance to Paris, 
 though you have to imagine that city fallen and re- 
 signed to its fall. This look and something friendly 
 and homely in its ways have combined with its sur- 
 roundings to lend it that peculiar attraction." * 
 
 Little is known of Dublin before the Danes estab- 
 lished a kingdom here in the Ninth Century. The 
 Danes were defeated in 1014 by Brian Boru, King 
 of Munster, at Clontarf, where the chieftain was 
 mortally wounded and lost 11,000 men. 
 
 In 1170, the Anglo-Xormans took Dublin and 
 drove away Prince Hasculf, who returned in the fol- 
 lowing year with a fleet of sixty ships. He was, 
 however, captured and put to death. Two years 
 later, Henry II. of England visited Dublin and re- 
 ceived homage from some of the Irish chieftains out- 
 side the city walls in the place that is now College 
 Green; gave Dublin to colonists from Bristol by 
 charter; and made it the seat of government in Ire- 
 land and the centre of the " English Pale," by which 
 name the small district around Drogheda and Dub- 
 lin, over which the English Crown had authority, 
 was known. 
 
 After the death of Dermod MacMurragh, the de- 
 posed king of Leinster, in 1171, the succession to the 
 Kingdom of Leinster was claimed by his son-in-law, 
 * Frank Mathew. 
 
 297
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Richard FitzGislebert, Earl of Pembroke, surnamed 
 " Strongbow," leader of the Anglo-Normans. Strong- 
 bow died in Dublin in 1177 and was buried in 
 Christchurch. 
 
 Dublin was now a walled town protected by the 
 fine Castle. The enclosure with its gates and towers 
 ran from Ship Street to Werburgh Street by St. 
 Audoen's Arch to the river, to Parliament Street 
 and to the Castle. Old foundations show that there 
 was a bridge over the Liffey where Whitworth now 
 crosses. 
 
 Dublin was frequently attacked by the people from 
 Wicklow. A memorable massacre of the citizens 
 while merry-making took place at Cullenswood, 
 called ever afterwards " Bloody Fields," on Easter, 
 or " Black Monday/' 1209. The city also suffered 
 a siege by Edward Bruce in 1316. 
 
 In 1394, Richard II. entered Dublin with 30,000 
 bowmen, 4,000 cavalry, and the Crown jewels. He 
 made a fine display, conferred knighthoods on sev- 
 eral natives, and returned to England. Five years 
 later, he paid another visit; but, while he was being 
 entertained by the chief magistrate, he was called 
 home by the rising of Bolingbroke, which cost him 
 his crown and life. 
 
 Though Dublin submitted to Henry VII., Thomas 
 Fitzgerald, son of the Earl of Kildare, who was also 
 the Viceroy of Henry VIIL, revolted in 1534, and 
 renounced his allegiance to England in St. Mary's 
 Abbey. " Silken Thomas," as he was called on ac- 
 count of the fantastic ribbons he and his followers 
 
 298
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 wore in their helmets, was finally captured and exe- 
 cuted at Tyburn in London. 
 
 Dublin had troubles during the Civil War, and 
 was for some time successfully defended by the Mar- 
 quis of Ormonde, who was defeated at the Battle of 
 Rathmines in 1649. In 1690, James II. entered 
 Dublin in triumph ; held a Parliament at the King's 
 Inns ; and established a mint. His conqueror, Will- 
 iam III., came to Dublin after the Battle of the 
 Boyne, and gave thanks for the victory in St. Pat- 
 rick's Cathedral. 
 
 In 1798, the United Irishmen, of whom Lord Ed- 
 ward Fitzgerald, a younger son of the Duke of 
 Leinster, was one of the leaders, endeavored to cap- 
 ture the city; but Lord Edward was captured in- 
 stead, and died in prison of the wounds he had re- 
 ceived during the struggle. 
 
 In 1800, the separate Irish Parliament came to 
 an end. In 1803, the young lawyer, Robert Emmett, 
 headed an insurrection which was ended with loss 
 of life and several executions. During the out- 
 break Lord Kildare was pulled out of his carriage 
 in Thomas Street and killed. 
 
 In 1867, Dublin was the centre of the Fenian 
 troubles. As many as 960 arrests were made in a 
 few hours. The Castle was fortified, and the peo- 
 ple lived in a state of terror for several weeks. 
 
 The Liffey runs through Dublin much like the 
 Seine through Paris, dividing the city into two sec- 
 tions. In mediaeval days, much of the land on both 
 sides of the river was owned by the Dominican, Au- 
 
 299
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 gustine and Cistercian monks, who built fine abbeys 
 here, and whose possessions were seized by the Crown 
 on the suppression of the monasteries. Though most 
 of the ancient churches, including the two cathedrals, 
 were built on the South side, the North side in the 
 Eighteenth Century was the fashionable quarter of 
 the town; and many fine buildings and handsome 
 houses were erected here. In the Nineteenth Cen- 
 tury, the South side became the fashionable district ; 
 and the city has therefore grown in this direction. 
 On the North, however, lies Sackville Street, one 
 of the handsomest streets in Europe, with its Nel- 
 son Pillar, 134 feet high, surmounted by a statue of 
 Nelson, erected in 1808. Erom this point trams run 
 in all directions, north and south, east and west, to 
 the suburbs, parks, and villages and resorts on the 
 coast. 
 
 The harbor is a fine one. The great work of con- 
 structing embankments and quays was begun in 
 1714. Lighthouses stand at the end of both the 
 North Wall and the South Wall, those long granite 
 quays that extend into the Bay of Dublin for more 
 than three miles. At the end of the South Wall, 
 which begins at Ringsend, near the mouth of the 
 Dodder, stands the Pigeon House, once a custom- 
 house, then a fort, arsenal and barracks, and now a 
 power station for electric light. Beyond the North 
 Wall, the Bull Wall protects the harbor from the 
 Sands of the North BulL 
 
 The Liffey is bordered with docks on both sides 
 as far as the Custom House on the North banks and 
 
 300
 
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 The City of Dublin 
 
 the Loop Line Railway and Butt Bridges. Quays, 
 called by different names, continue on both sides as 
 far as Phoenix Park; and at intervals the river is 
 spanned by handsome bridges. Next to Butt, or the 
 Swivel Bridge, built in 1878, comes Dublin's finest 
 bridge, O'Connell, built in 1880 to replace the old 
 Carlisle Bridge of 1794. This connects Westmore- 
 land Street on the south side with Sackville Street 
 on the north, and is of the same width as the latter. 
 Three rows of lamps render it brilliant at night. A 
 beautiful view is to be had from this bridge down 
 the Liffey towards the Custom House, embracing the 
 docks crowded with ships, Sackville Street with Nel- 
 son's Pillar and the Post Office, while up the river 
 the glance takes in the Four Courts, the towers of 
 Christchurch and the lofty tower of the modern Au- 
 gustinian Church in Thomas Street. The next 
 bridge is the Wellington, a light iron bridge of one 
 arch, constructed in 1816 and also called the Metal 
 Bridge. Then comes Grattan, originally the Essex 
 Bridge, built in 1678 and rebuilt in 1874. Rich- 
 mond is the next, of three arches made of Portland 
 stone and supplied with an iron balustrade. This 
 dates from 1816, as does also the next, Whitworth 
 Bridge, replacing one that perished in the flood of 
 1812, known variously as the Old, the Ormonde and 
 the Dublin, and made by the Dominicans in 1427. 
 Next comes the Queen's Bridge, of three arches, 
 built in 1768 to replace Arran Bridge which per- 
 ished in a flood; then the Victoria, or Barracks 
 Bridge, erected in 1859 on the site of Bloody Bridge, 
 
 301
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 a rude stone structure, the name of which, according 
 to one tradition, was derived from a battle in which 
 the English were defeated by the Irish in 1408. 
 King's Bridge, built in 1821, to commemorate the 
 visit of George IV. to Ireland, crosses near the Great 
 Southern and Western Railway Station near the en- 
 trance to Phoenix Park. A railway bridge also 
 crosses the river between King's Bridge and Island 
 Bridge. The latter is also called Sarah Bridge, after 
 Sarah, Countess of Westmoreland, who laid the first 
 stone in 1791. 
 
 Running along the steep slopes known as the 
 " Strawberry Beds," the Liffey skirts Phoenix Park 
 and the suburbs on the west. 
 
 Phoenix Park takes its name from Fionn Uisg' 
 (pronounced feenisk, and meaning clear water). It 
 contains 1,752 acres, the greater part of which be- 
 longed to the Knights of St. John, Kilmainham, 
 but which went to the Crown on the dissolution of 
 the monasteries. The original grant was given by 
 Charles II. Lord Chesterfield erected the Pillar 
 surmounted by a phoenix near the famous spring of 
 Fionn Uisg', in 1747, and planted the Park with 
 trees. Many of the splendid elms were blown down 
 in the great elm avenue during a storm in 1903. On 
 the left of the chief entrance near King's Bridge 
 stands the Wellington Monument, erected in 1817, 
 an Obelisk, 205 feet high, with bronze panels of the 
 Iron Duke's famous battles. Some distance west, is 
 the Magazine Fort, of which Dean Swift sarcastical- 
 ly wrote: 
 
 302
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 "Behold! a proof of Irish sense; 
 
 Here Irish wit is seen! 
 When nothing's left that's worth defence 
 We build a magazine ! " 
 
 The Park has fine cricket and polo grounds, and 
 reviews are held in the space known as " Fifteen 
 Acres," which really comprises two hundred. 
 
 On the right of the entrance is the People's Gar- 
 den, containing a lake ; and not far away are the bar- 
 racks of the Royal Irish Constabulary and the Royal 
 Military Infirmary. Just beyond the People's Gar- 
 den are the Zoological Gardens, noted for their splen- 
 did lions. Further west is situated the Viceregal 
 Lodge, the summer residence of the Lord Lieutenant 
 of Ireland ; the Mountjoy Barracks ; and the Hiber- 
 nian Military School. It was opposite the Viceregal 
 Lodge on the main road that Lord Frederick Caven- 
 dish and Mr. Burke were assassinated on May 6, 
 1882. 
 
 Knockmaroon Gate leads to the Strawberry Beds 
 and the Furry, or Furze Glen, from which a charm- 
 ing view is to be enjoyed. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Liffey a road runs to 
 the Kilmainham Hospital, the residence of the Com- 
 mander of the Forces in Ireland. The building, 
 which is approached by a superb avenue of old trees, 
 was erected in 1680-84 from designs by Sir Christo- 
 pher Wren at the instance of the Duke of Ormonde, 
 for " ancient, maimed and infirm officers and sol- 
 diers." It is a quadrangular building facing a court. 
 The Great Hall occupies the centre with a Chapel 
 
 303
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 on one side and the master's apartment on the other. 
 The Hall (100 feet long) contains a fine collection 
 of arms and armor; and the Chapel some splendid 
 carvings by Grinling Gibbons, and a window pre- 
 sented by Queen Victoria to commemorate her visit 
 of 1849. 
 
 From this point, James Street leads past Swift's 
 Hospital, founded in 1749 by a bequest from Dean 
 Swift; Steeven's Hospital; and the enormous Guin- 
 ness Brewery which occupies more than forty acres, 
 extending to the Liffey. On our right lies the old 
 district known as the " Liberties of St. Patrick," 
 once the centre of the silk and poplin factories, a net- 
 work of narrow, dingy streets, many of which have 
 been opened up of late years. 
 
 Continuing our way eastwards along the south 
 side, we come to Dublin Castle on Cork Hill. Little 
 of the original fortress, finished in 1223, remains. 
 With its single curtain wall, surmounted by four 
 towers and surrounded by a moat, it formed a strong 
 defence. Under its courtyard the hidden river Pod- 
 die flows to join the Liffey. Since 1565, Dublin 
 Castle has been the official seat of the Irish Govern- 
 ment and the winter residence of the Viceroy. The 
 chief entrance is from Cork Hill ; and the Viceregal 
 apartments and offices are on the south side of the 
 quadrangle. In the Throne Room is preserved the 
 throne made for George IV. In St. Patrick's Hall, 
 the Knights of St. Patrick are now invested with 
 this Order. On the walls hang the arms and ban- 
 ners of the Knights of St. Patrick. 
 
 304
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 The present Chapel was built in 1814 to replace 
 an older one, and contains some fine windows. The 
 Record Tower, also called the Wardrobe Tower, from 
 the fact that the robes were kept there until it be- 
 came, in 1579, a storehouse for state papers, is the 
 only one of the original four towers that remains. 
 The Birmingham Tower, near the Ship Street en- 
 trance, was rebuilt in 1775 and contains a fine sup- 
 per-room. It was in former days the State prison. 
 
 St. Werburgh's Church, near the Castle, was 
 originally the Chapel Royal. The first edifice was 
 built in the days of Henry II. In its vaults Lord 
 Edward Fitzgerald was buried. 
 
 Adjoining the Castle on Cork Hill the Guild of 
 Merchants erected the Royal Exchange in 1779, a 
 handsome building of the Corinthian Order with 
 three fronts, porticoes and columns. In 1852, this 
 became the property of Dublin and was converted 
 into the City Hall. All the royal charters, ancient 
 books and the original grant of the city by Henry II. 
 to the men of Bristol are kept here, as well as the 
 old regalia. 
 
 Cork Hill was until recently a district of narrow 
 streets crowded with houses. These were cleared 
 away, and Lord Edward Street, named for Lord Ed- 
 ward Fitzgerald, was cut through from Dame Street 
 in 1886. Lord Edward Street will, therefore, take 
 us to Christchurch. This, the Cathedral of the Holy 
 Trinity, was founded in 1038 by Sigtryg Silkbeard, 
 King of the Danes in Dublin, and Donatus, a Dan- 
 ish Bishop. Their original plan may be seen in the 
 
 305
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Crypt ; but the old church disappeared when Strong- 
 bow, Fitz-Stephen and Raymond le Gros, with Arch- 
 bishop O'Toole, erected an English cathedral on the 
 foundations about 1172. St. Patrick's soon became 
 a rival church; but Christchurch kept its place as 
 the mother church and the Chapel Royal. In 1870, 
 Christchurch was made the Cathedral of Dublin and 
 Glendalough while St. Patrick's became the National 
 Cathedral. 
 
 In 1486, the imposter Lambert Simnel was 
 crowned in Christchurch with a crown taken from 
 a statue of the Virgin in St. Mary's Abbey; and in 
 this church up to the Sixteenth Century all the high 
 officers of state and city were sworn into office. 
 William HI. presented splendid plate to Christ- 
 church after his victories. 
 
 Christchurch underwent a complete restoration in 
 1870. Only the transepts and one bay of the choir 
 of Strongbow's building remain. Strongbow's tomb, 
 with its recumbent effigy in chain-armor, is the most 
 famous relic in the church. The nave, the floor, the 
 bapistery and the chapels are all restorations of the 
 original Gothic work. The Synod House is new. 
 It is entered by a covered bridge, and is built on the 
 site of St. Michael the Archangel, the old tower of 
 which is preserved. Near Christchurch is the Corn 
 Market, the last surviving of the Mediaeval parochial 
 churches in Dublin. St. Audoen deserves a visit, 
 though some of it is unroofed and in ruins. The 
 small western doorway is of the Twelfth Century; 
 but the rest is of late Pointed architecture. Sev- 
 
 306
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 eral old tombs and monuments are contained in the 
 southeast chapel. A gateway stands near St. Audo- 
 en's and fragments of the old city walls can be seen 
 here. 
 
 A short walk down Nicholas and Patrick Streets 
 will take us from Christchurch to St. Patrick's 
 Cathedral, the " Westminster Abbey of Ireland." 
 In 1190, the Archbishop of Dublin adopted the old- 
 Celtic church of St. Patrick de Insula for a Collegi- 
 ate church to supersede the more ancient Christ- 
 church. His successor, Henry de Loundes, raised it 
 to the dignity of a cathedral in 1212. St. Patrick's 
 had always been venerated on account of its holy 
 well at which baptisms took place. The site of St. 
 Patrick's Well was determined in 1901 by the dis- 
 covery of an ancient Celtic cross at the base of the 
 first pillar in the south transept. 
 
 Within its walls, or " liberty," and the adjoining 
 " liberty " of St. Sepulchre, the Archbishops of Dub- 
 lin practically ruled. All the old manses and fortifi- 
 cations have now disappeared. 
 
 Though much of St. Patrick's was destroyed by 
 fire, some portions are still very old and date from 
 the Thirteenth Century. St. Patrick's was repaired 
 and restored in 1866-1869 by Sir Benjamin Lee 
 Guiness at a cost of 150,000 ($750,000) ; and his 
 sons, Lord Iveagh and Lord Ardilaun, have given 
 great sums of late years for its maintenance. 
 
 St. Patrick's is very large 300 feet long built 
 in the form of a cross with a nave and eight bays, 
 and a Lady Chapel. In the Chapter House, the 
 
 307
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 Knights of St. Patrick, which Order was founded 
 in 1783, were installed up to 1869. St. Patrick's 
 contains many fine monuments and brasses ; and the 
 tombs of Dean Swift and Stella, who are buried side 
 by side in the south side of the nave. There are two 
 peals of bells: one, of four, dates from 1670; the 
 other, of ten, was presented to the Cathedral by Lord 
 Iveagh in 1897. The latter also had a portion of 
 the slums cleared away to make St. Patrick's Park, 
 and also gave Iveagh House in the vicinity to the 
 people. 
 
 Dame Street and Westmoreland Street meet at 
 College Green ; and from this point the public build- 
 ings make a splendid show. Here we have the Bank 
 of Ireland, and Trinity College with its numerous 
 halls and towers; while down Grafton Street, a 
 fashionable thoroughfare ending at St. Stephen's 
 Green, other buildings appear. Between Grafton 
 Street and Merrion Square are grouped a number of 
 museums, art-galleries and the homes of various 
 artistic, literary and scientific societies. 
 
 The Bank of Ireland is a magnificent building. 
 It was originally the Irish House of Parliament, and 
 was begun in 1729. Over the principal portico are 
 the Royal Arms and statues of Hibernia with Fidel- 
 ity and Commerce on either side. An open colon- 
 nade extends on each side to the wings. The east 
 front facing College Street was built by James Gan- 
 don in 1785, for the entrance to the House of Lords. 
 The statues over the entrance are Fortitude, Justice 
 and Liberty. The House of Commons was destroyed 
 
 308
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 by a fire in 1792 and rebuilt. In the old House of 
 Lords, a statue of George III. occupies the place of 
 the throne, and there are two large pieces of tapestry 
 dating from 1733 and depicting the Battle of the 
 Boyne and the Siege of Derry. 
 
 Trinity College, founded in 1591, consists of a 
 noble pile of buildings of granite and limestone in 
 the Greek style of architecture beautifully grouped 
 in a fine park of twenty-eight acres. The principal 
 facade (300 feet long) faces College Green. A 
 splendid hall, called the Regent's House, a beautiful 
 Chapel, a Theatre, and a Dining-hall, situated in the 
 quadrangle, Parliament Square, were erected by the 
 generosity of the Irish Parliament in the Eighteenth 
 Century. In the centre of the square, a Campanile 
 '(100 feet high) was built in 1852. 
 
 The Library (270 feet long) stands in Library 
 Square and consists of a valuable collection of an- 
 cient MSS., among which is the Book of Kells, " the 
 most beautiful book in the world." This Library 
 was founded in 1601 to commemorate the Battle of 
 Kinsale, the soldiers subscribing seven hundred 
 pounds " out of the arrears of their pay." Trinity 
 College Library has a free copy of every book pub- 
 lished in Great Britain, according to the Library Act 
 of 1801. Among other treasures, the Library con- 
 tains an old Irish Harp, said to have belonged to 
 Brian Boru. 
 
 The Schools, built in 1856, consisting of lecture 
 rooms, halls, museums, etc., is also a fine edifice. 
 College Park and Fellows' Gardens are of great ex- 
 
 309
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 tent The latter contains an old well that has been 
 called " St. Patrick's Well " for hundreds of years. 
 All of this land originally belonged to the Augustine 
 Monastery of All Hallows, founded here in 1166. 
 
 St. Stephen's Green, of twenty-two acres, beauti- 
 fully laid out with walks, shrubbery, cascades and 
 lakes, was opened as a public park in 1880 through 
 the generous gift of Lord Ardilaun. An equestrian 
 statue of George II. ornaments the centre. In the 
 Eighteenth Century the Square was chiefly residen- 
 tial; but business has now taken possession of the 
 west and north sides. On the west side, we find the 
 Royal College of Surgeons, erected by the Govern- 
 ment in 1806, at a cost of 25,000. Its pediment 
 is surmounted by statues of Minerva, Esculapius and 
 Hygeia. The College comprises schools, a library, 
 hall and a museum. 
 
 On the north side of St. Stephen's Green are vari- 
 ous Clubs and the Palace of the Archbishop of Dub- 
 lin; on the east side, the Royal College of Science; 
 and south of St. Stephen's are the Catholic Univer- 
 sity College and the Royal University. 
 
 Passing down Kildare Street that leads from the 
 north side of St. Stephen's Green, we come to Lein- 
 ster House, built in 1745, the former residence of 
 the Duke of Leinster in grounds that extend to Mer- 
 rion Square. Since 1815 it has been the home of the 
 Royal Dublin Society. 
 
 Here are also situated the Science and Art Mu- 
 seum and National Library two buildings of simi- 
 lar style dating from 1890. The collection of Irish 
 
 310
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 'Antiquities and examples of Early Christian Art are 
 among the finest in Europe. Here are the splendid 
 processional cross of Cong made by order of Tur- 
 loch O'Connor in 1123 ; the silver chalice of Ardagh, 
 ornamented with gold filigree work and enamelled 
 beads; and St. Patrick's bell, supposed to have be- 
 longed to St. Patrick himself. 
 
 Adjoining the National Library is the National 
 Gallery, facing a pretty park called Leinster Lawn, 
 in which a few statues are scattered. This was 
 opened in 1864, and contains many fine pictures by 
 old and modern masters. 
 
 A few yards north of St. Stephen's Green, we find 
 the Mansion House, the residence of the Lord Mayor 
 since 1715. The Kound Room, 90 feet in diameter 
 and lighted by a lantern at the top, was built to 
 entertain George IV. in 1821. The Oak Room is 
 noted for its panelling. 
 
 Having now seen the principal sights of the South 
 side, we will cross O'Connell Bridge to the North 
 side. 
 
 The Custom House on Eden Quay not far from 
 O'Connell Bridge is the finest building in Dublin, 
 as far as the exterior is concerned. The south side 
 facing the river is the handsomest of the four deco- 
 rated facades. This has a central Doric portico of 
 four columns supporting an entablature on which 
 England and Ireland are seated on a shell drawn by 
 sea horses, while Neptune is vanquishing Famine 
 and Despair. On either side of the portico extend 
 wings with open arcades. The interior consists of 
 
 311
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 two courts and an impressive mass of buildings sur- 
 mounted by a dome on which, stands a figure of Hope 
 resting on an anchor. The Custom House is sur- 
 rounded by an open space. Since all the customs 
 were concentrated in London, this building has been 
 used for various Government offices. 
 
 Sackville Street, a hundred and twenty feet broad 
 and about seven hundred feet long, is one of the 
 handsomest streets in Europe. In the centre stands 
 the Nelson Pillar; and on the west side the large 
 Post Office, a granite building completed in 1818 
 with a portico 80 feet wide ornamented with six 
 fluted columns and a pediment with the Royal Arms 
 and statue of Hibernia, Mercury and Fidelity. At 
 the top of the street the Rotunda stands facing Rut- 
 land Square. This building takes its name from a 
 round room 80 feet in diameter, and contains other 
 rooms that are used for public entertainments. 
 Near it, on Great Britain Street, stands the hand- 
 some Rotunda Hospital, the chapel of which is or- 
 namented with a most elaborate ceiling of Italian 
 stucco-work of the Eighteenth Century. 
 
 Westwards from the Rotunda and across Domin- 
 ick Street stands the King's Inn on Henrietta Street 
 facing Constitution Hill. This handsome building, 
 with a central edifice surmounted by a cupola and 
 flanked by wings of two stories each, was designed by 
 Gandon and erected in 1765. The Dining Hall and 
 Library are beautifully ornamented rooms. The 
 title of King's Inn was bestowed on Preston's Inn 
 (the only inn of court in Dublin) when Henry VIII. 
 
 312
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 received the title " King of Ireland " in 1541 ; and 
 the confiscated Dominican Monastery of St. Saviour, 
 founded in 1224 on the north bank of the Liffey 
 where the Four Courts now stands, was bestowed 
 upon the society. The Four Courts now occupies 
 the whole of King's Inn Quay between the Rich- 
 mond and Whitworth bridges, consists of a main 
 building, built in 1786-1800 by Thomas Cooley and 
 James Gandon, and several minor courts and offices 
 in the rear. It is a very handsome structure with 
 a frontage of 450 feet, and having a central portico 
 of six Corinthian Columns surmounted by a statue 
 of Moses accompanied by Justice and Mercy. The 
 dome that surmounts the central division is 64 feet 
 in diameter. 
 
 There are a few interesting churches on this side 
 of the river. Behind the Four Courts stands St. 
 Michan's, the foundation of which dates from 1095. 
 The present church is a restoration of a Seventeenth 
 Century building; but the handsome tower is earlier. 
 A much handsomer church is that of St. George, 
 near Mont joy Square in the northernmost part of 
 the city, erected in 1802, which has a lofty tower 
 and steeple of 200 feet, and a portico with four 
 fluted columns. 
 
 The Church of St. Saviours in Dominick Street, 
 built in 1858, is a good example of modern Gothic 
 architecture. 
 
 On the north bank there remains a fragment of St. 
 Mary's Abbey, where " Silken Thomas " renounced 
 his allegiance to England in 1534, a vaulted build- 
 
 313
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 ing of four bays now occupied as a store. It was 
 originally a Benedictine monastery, and then became 
 the great Cistercian Abbey. It occupied a large tract 
 of land on the Liffey. 
 
 In comparison with most European capitals, Dub- 
 lin shows little life or brilliancy. 
 
 " The first thing you notice is its depopulated 
 look; its wide streets are so empty and so many of 
 its big houses seem quite deserted that one could im- 
 agine that one was visiting a city abandoned by most 
 of its inmates. Xor is this notion transitory; for 
 when you explore outlying streets tenanted by the 
 poorest, you find in them houses that must once have 
 been splendid. Here you might think is a city that 
 was affluent once and has for some reason declined. 
 You are not told of a tragical past, but of a former 
 wealth. 
 
 " Beyond doubt, Dublin was more prosperous 
 once and more animated; but it never was rich. 
 What about the merry old times when it boasted a 
 Parliament? Tradition has glorified these, and it 
 must be allowed that contemporary letters and news- 
 papers tell of rejoicings then held in those desolate 
 homes; but if you enquire closer, you find how un- 
 substantial those pageants were. Many of them were 
 the insensate displays of a bankrupt magnificence: 
 there were hours when the grey city was lit by the 
 brief splendour of prodigals; but around that illu- 
 sive light there was poverty, within sound of those 
 irrational feasts there was starvation." * 
 * Frank Mathew. 
 314
 
 The City of Dublin 
 
 From Kelson's Pillar, trams run every few min- 
 utes to the suburbs on the south and north. The 
 southern environs are very delightful. Harold's 
 Cross, an old village, is the nearest; Rathmines, an- 
 other village, two miles away, is famous for the 
 " Bloody Fields," where the early English colonists 
 of Dublin were slaughtered by the Irish of Wicklow 
 on Easter Monday, 1209. Here also the Koyalist 
 troops under the Duke of Ormonde were defeated in 
 1649 by Cromwell's forces. Further south lies 
 Kathfarnham, where there is an old castle built in 
 Queen Elizabeth's time; and still further we find 
 the fashionable suburb of Dundrum. Everybody 
 has heard of the boisterous Donnybrook Fair at 
 which the pugnacious Irishman was ready to hit any 
 head on general principles. The old town of Donny- 
 brook lies about two miles and a half away on the 
 bank of the river Dodder that flows into the Liffey 
 from the south. The Fair that was licensed in 1204 
 was not abolished until 1855. 
 
 Sandymount is also reached by tram and lies on 
 the coast. A pretty walk can be taken south to 
 Merrion along the Rock Road, or north to Irishtown 
 and thence back to Dublin by way of the South Wall 
 and the Pigeon House. 
 
 Turning now to the northern suburbs Clontarf 
 '(meadow of the bulls) is a charming spot, to which 
 trams run every few minutes from Nelson's Pillar, 
 where the battle was fought between the Danes and 
 the Irish under Brian Boru. A beautiful mansion, 
 built in 1835, stands on the site of Clontarf Castle, 
 
 315
 
 A Guide to Cities 
 
 one of the oldest castles within the English Pale, 
 and which belonged originally to the Knights Temp- 
 lars. 
 
 Beyond, Dollymount, with its noted Golf Links, 
 is situated near the Bull Wall and Pier which pro- 
 tects the harbor of Dublin from the sands of the 
 North Bull. 
 
 Two miles north from Nelson's Pillar lies Glas- 
 nevin (JSTaeidhen's Brook), and between it and Fing- 
 las (clear stream), two miles farther to the west, are 
 situated the Botanic Gardens, established in 1790 
 and consisting of about forty acres. The palms, 
 orchids and ferns are particularly remarkable. This 
 was the home of the poet Tickell ; and in the vicinity 
 also resided Swift, Addison, Steele, Delaney and 
 Parnell. The avenue of yew trees is still called 
 "Addison's Walk." At Finglas there is an old 
 Cross and an old church. William III. and his army 
 rested here after the Battle of the Boyne. In early 
 times, Finglas was the place for the May games, 
 which were ended in 1843. 
 
 316
 
 INDEX 
 
 AMSTERDAM, 124-159. 
 
 Amstel Vesten, 131. 
 
 Binnen-Amstel, The, 151. 
 
 Botanic Gardens, 157. 
 
 Buitenkant, The, 150. 
 
 Criers' Tower, The, 150. 
 
 Custom House. See Tol- 
 huis. 
 
 Dam, The, 129, 142, 147. 
 
 Damrak, The, 140. 
 
 Damrak Straat, 146. 
 
 Docks, The, 149-150. 
 
 East Park, 157. 
 
 Exchange, The New, 146, 
 149. 
 
 Exchange, The Old, 142, 
 149. 
 
 Haarlemmer Meer, or Haar- 
 lem Meer, 125. 
 
 Haarlemmer Polder, 125. 
 
 Heerengracht, The, 128, 143. 
 
 Hollandisch Diep, 126. 
 
 Jewish Quarter, 151. 
 
 Jodenbrfie Straat, 152. 
 
 Kalver Straat, 146. 
 
 Keisersgracht, The, 128, 143. 
 
 Merwede Canal, The, 130. 
 
 Mint Tower, The, 151. 
 
 Montalbaans, 150. 
 
 Nieuwe Kerk, The, 147-148. 
 Nieuwe Markt, The, 136, 
 
 150. 
 
 North Holland Canal, 130. 
 Open Haven, The, 150. 
 Oude Kerk, The, 142, 146- 
 
 147. 
 
 Oude Schans, 150, 151. 
 Palace on the Dam, The, 
 
 129, 147, 149, 154. 
 Paulus Potter Straat, 157. 
 Prinsengracht, 128. 
 Prins-Hendrik-Kade, 150. 
 Kembrandt's House, 151- 
 
 152. 
 Ryks Museum, The, 129, 
 
 154-157. 
 
 Sarphati Park, 157. 
 Schellingwoude, 130. 
 Schreyerstoren, The, 150. 
 Singelgracht, The, 128, 129, 
 
 143, 155. 
 St. Antonieswaag, 136, 150- 
 
 151. 
 
 Stadhouders Kade, 154. 
 Stadthuis, The, 141. See 
 
 Town Hall. 
 Stedelyk Museum, The, 129, 
 
 157. 
 
 317
 
 Index 
 
 Synagogues, 151. 
 Tea Gardens, 158. 
 Tolhuis, The, 130, 158. 
 Town Hall, 148-149. 
 Trippenhuis, The, 151, 154. 
 Venice of the North, The, 
 
 129, 142. 
 
 Vondel's Park, 157. 
 Warmoes Straat, 146, 147. 
 Weepers' Tower, The, 150. 
 West Park, 157. 
 Willems-Park, 157. 
 Willems-Sluis, 130. 
 Y, The, 128, 129, 130, 158. 
 Zwanenburger-Straat, 152. 
 Zoological Gardens, 158. 
 
 ANTWERP, 63-98. 
 Avenues, The, 80, 91. 
 Bassins, The, 73. 
 Bells of Cathedral, 80-82. 
 Berchem, 92. 
 Borgerhout, 92. 
 Borgerhout Gate, 69. 
 Borgt, The, 63, 74. See 
 
 Steen. 
 
 Boucherie, 79, 94. 
 Bourse. See Exchange. 
 Canal au Sucre, 67. 
 Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
 
 80-85. 
 
 Docks, The, 73-74. 
 Eglise St. Jacques. See St. 
 
 James's. 
 
 Exchange, The, 66, 88, 142. 
 Gate of the Scheldt, 73. 
 Grand Bassin, The, 73, 
 
 91. 
 
 Grand' Place, 67, 77, 79. 
 Hotel de Ville, 67, 78-79. 
 
 House of Rubens's Parents, 
 86. 
 
 Maison Hanseatique, The, 
 73. 
 
 Marche" aux Gants, 77, 80. 
 
 Marche" aux Souliers, 87. 
 
 Marche" du Vendredi, 96. 
 
 Meat Market, The, 79. 
 
 MusSe Royal des Beaux- 
 Arts, 92-94. 
 
 Palais Royal, 87. 
 
 Palais du Roi. See Palais 
 Royal. 
 
 Park, The, 91. 
 
 Pepinidre, The, 91. 
 
 Place de Meir, 86, 87, 88, 
 91. 
 
 Place Verte, 81, 85, 86, 87. 
 
 Plan tin Museum, 96-98. 
 
 Rubens's Chapel, 90. 
 
 Rue des Douze Mois, 88. 
 
 Rue Rubens, 86. 
 
 Scheldt, The, 72, 73, 80, 82. 
 
 Statues, 85, 87. 
 
 St. James's, 89-91. 
 
 St. Laurent, 92. 
 
 St. Paul's, 91-95. 
 
 Steen, The, 74-76. 
 
 Steen Dock, The, 74. 
 
 Vlaamisch Hoofd, 80. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, 92. 
 
 CHRISTIANIA, 250-269. 
 Aker, The, 256, 261. 
 Akerhus, 250, 251, 252, 256, 
 
 262. 
 
 Akers Church, 262-263. 
 Akersdal, 250. 
 Akerselven, 256. 
 Akers Gaden, 261, 262. 
 
 318
 
 Incta 
 
 Bispe Gaarden. See Bish- 
 op's Palace. 
 Bishop's Palace, The, 264- 
 
 265. 
 
 BjSrviken, 250, 256. 
 Bygdey. See BygdS. 
 Bygdb", 266-267. 
 Carl Johan's Gade, 257, 258, 
 
 260, 261. 
 Christiania Fjord, 250, 251- 
 
 252, 255, 259, 266, 269. 
 Church of St. Olaf, 262. 
 Custom House, 256. 
 Drammens Veien, 258. 
 Eidsvolds Plads, 260, 261. 
 Ekeburg, 252, 265. 
 Folden Fjord, 252. 
 Frogner, The, 258. 
 Frogner Saeter, 268-269. 
 Gamle Akers Kirke. See 
 
 Akers Church. 
 Graensen, 261, 262. 
 Gronland, 256. 
 Hammersborg, 256. 
 Holmen Kollen, 268. 
 Houses of Parliament. See 
 
 Stor th i ngsbygningen. 
 Hovedo, 266. 
 King's Road, The. See 
 
 Kongs Veien. 
 Kongs Veien, 265. 
 Kyles of Bestum, 266. 
 Kyles of Frogner, The, 258, 
 
 266. 
 
 Lade Gaard, 264. 
 Ladegaardso, 255. 
 Lade Gaardsoen, 266. 
 Mariakirken, The, 252. 
 Museums, The, 257, 258. 
 National Theatre, The, 261. 
 
 Nordmarken, 269. 
 
 Norwegian National Muse- 
 um, 267. 
 
 Oscar's Hall, 251, 256, 267. 
 
 Oslo, 252-253, 264. 
 
 Oslo Asylum, 265. 
 
 Oslo Church, 265. 
 
 Oslo Gade, 264. 
 
 Our Saviour's Church. Sec 
 Vor Frelsers Kirke, 261. 
 
 Piperviken, 250, 254, 256. 
 
 Royal Palace, 257. 
 
 Sagbakken, 256. 
 
 St. Halvards Plads, 264. 
 
 St. Hanshaugen,'263. 
 
 St. John's Hill. See St. 
 Hanshaugen. 
 
 St. Olafskirke, 262. 
 
 Skipper Gade, 254. 
 
 Stor Gaden, 261. 
 
 Stor thi ngsbygningen, The, 
 257, 260-261. 
 
 Stortorvet, 261. 
 
 Svinesund, 262. 
 
 Torvet. See Stortorvet. 
 
 Trefoldinghedskirke, 262. 
 
 Trinity Church. See Tre- 
 foldinghedskirke. 
 
 University, The, 258, 259. 
 
 Vaterland, 254, 256. 
 
 Victoria Terrace, 258. 
 
 Vor Frelsers Gravlund, 262. 
 
 COPENHAGEN, 187-221. 
 Amager, Island of, 199, 200. 
 Amagertorv, 208, 209. 
 Amak, 199. See Amager. 
 Amalie-Gade, 202. v 
 Amalienborg, Palace of, 199, 
 201, 202. 
 
 319
 
 Index 
 
 Amalienborg-Plads, 200-201. 
 Arsenal, The, 215, 219. 
 Art Museum, 217. 
 Axel-huus, 187. 
 Bredgade, 200, 201, 202. 
 Charlottenborg, 200. 
 Christiansborg Palace, 187, 
 
 215. 
 
 Christianshavn, 199, 218. 
 Church of Our Lady, 210. 
 Church of Our Saviour, 
 
 218. 
 
 Copenhagen Hill, 214, 221. 
 Custom House, The, 199. 
 Deer Park. See Dyrehaven. 
 Dyrehaven, 198. 
 Elsinore, 192, 197. 
 Esplanade, The, 202. 
 Exchange, The, 215, 219, 
 
 220. 
 
 Folkemuseum, 218. 
 Frederiksberg, 213. 
 Frederiksberg Alice, 213. 
 Frederiksberg, Castle of, 
 
 195, 214. 
 Frederikshavn, Citadel of, 
 
 202. 
 
 Frederiksberg Have, 213. 
 Frederiksberg Park, 214, 
 
 221. 
 
 Frederick Church, 199, 201. 
 Free Port, The, 203. 
 Frue Kirke, 209, 210. 
 Gammel Strand, 199. 
 Gammeltorv, 209, 210. 
 Glyptothek, The Old, 214. 
 Gothers-Gade, 204. 
 Hermitage, The, 196, 198. 
 Hesten, The, 200. 
 H6jbro Plads, 208, 209, 220. 
 
 320 
 
 Holmen's Kanal, 215, 220. 
 Holmen's Kirche, 215. 
 Houses of Parliament, 201. 
 Hveen, 196, 198, 203. 
 Industrial Art Museum, 
 
 213, 218. 
 
 Kalvebodstrand, 199. 
 Kastel, The, 202. 
 Kjobmager Gade, 210. 
 Kjobmannshavn, 187. 
 Klampenborg, 198. 
 Knippelsbro, 199, 218. 
 Kongens Nytorv, 200, 204, 
 
 208, 215. 
 Kronborg, Castle of, 193- 
 
 196, 197, 217. 
 Kullen, 196. 
 Langebro, 199. 
 Langelinie, 199, 202, 203, 
 
 221. 
 
 Marble Church, 196. 
 Marienlyst, Park of, 196. 
 National Museum, 216-217. 
 Norrevolgade, 207. 
 Norrebro, 208. 
 Ny-Carlsberg Glyptothek, 
 
 213, 214. 
 
 Nyhavn Kanal, 200. 
 Nytorv, 209. 
 Orated Park, 207. 
 Oster Gade, 208. 
 Ostervolds-Gade, 207. 
 Palace Bridge, 215. 
 Prince's Palace, 216. 
 Queen Louise's Bridge, 208. 
 Raadlmis-Plads, 208, 210, 
 
 213. 
 
 Rosenberg, 219. 
 Rosenberg Castle, or Pair 
 
 ace of, 204-205.
 
 Index 
 
 Round Tower, 219. 
 
 Royal Copenhagen Porcelain 
 
 Manufactory, 218. 
 Royal Library, 215. 
 Royal Palace. See Amalien- 
 
 borg. 
 
 Rungsted, 197. 
 Skodsborg, 196, 197, 198. 
 blotsholmen, 199, 208, 215, 
 
 218. 
 SSndermarken, The, 213, 
 
 214. 
 Sound, The, 192, 196-198, 
 
 203, 206. 
 
 St. Annse Plads, 202. 
 Straw Market, 213. 
 Strb'get, or Strogtid, 208- 
 
 209. 
 
 Surgeons' Hall, 201. 
 Taarbsek, 198. 
 Thorvaldsen Museum, 215- 
 
 216. 
 
 Tivoli, 211-213. 
 Toldbod, 199. 
 Town Hall, New, 213. 
 Town Hall, Old, 209. 
 Trekoner, 198. 
 Vesbjek, 197. 
 Vesterbro, 199. 
 Vesterbro Gade, 213. 
 Veaterbro Passage, 213. 
 Vimmelskaftet, 209. 
 Vor Frelsers Kirke, 218. 
 Zealand, 196, 197. 
 Zoological Gardens, 214. 
 
 DUBLIN, 295-316. 
 Addison's Walk, 316. 
 Arran Bridge, 301. 
 Bailey Lighthouse, 295. 
 
 Bank of Ireland, 308. 
 
 Barracks Bridge, 301. 
 
 Bay of Dublin, 295, 300. 
 
 Bloody Bridge, 301. 
 
 Botanic Gardens, 316. 
 
 Bull Wall, 300, 316. 
 
 Butt Bridge, 301. 
 
 Candlesticks, The, 295. 
 
 Carlisle Bridge, 301. 
 
 Cathedral of Dublin, 306. 
 
 Cathedral of the Holy Trin- 
 ity, 305. 
 
 Christ Church, 301, 305, 
 306. 
 
 Church of St. Saviours, 
 313. 
 
 City Hall, 305. 
 
 Clontarf, 315. 
 
 Clontarf Castle, 315. 
 
 College Green, 308. 
 
 Constitution Hill, 312. 
 
 Cork Hill, 304, 305. 
 
 Cullenswood, 298. 
 
 Custom House, 300, 301, 
 311-312. 
 
 Dodder, The, 300, 315. 
 
 Dollymount, 316. 
 
 Donnybrook, 315. 
 
 Dublin Castle, 298, 304- 
 305. 
 
 Dundrum, 315. 
 
 Eden Quay, 311. 
 
 Essex Bridge, 301. 
 
 Finglas, 316. 
 
 Four Courts, The, 301, 313. 
 
 Furze Glen, 303. 
 
 Glasnevin, 316. 
 
 Grafton Street, 308. 
 
 Grattan Bridge, 301. 
 
 Harold's Cross, 315. 
 
 321
 
 Index 
 
 House of Parliament, 308- 
 
 309. 
 
 Howth, 295, 296. 
 Island Bridge, 302. 
 James Street, 304. 
 Kilmainham Hospital, 303- 
 
 304. 
 
 King's Bridge, 302. 
 Bang's Inn, 312. 
 Bang's Inn Quay, 312. 
 Kingstown, 295. 
 Knockmaroon Gate, 303. 
 Leinster House, 316. 
 Leinster Lawn, 311. 
 Liberties of St. Patrick, 
 
 The, 304. 
 Liffey, The, 295, 298, 299, 
 
 301, 302, 303, 304, 313, 
 
 314, 315. 
 
 Lion's Head, 295. 
 
 Magazine Fort, 302. 
 
 Mansion House, 311. 
 
 Merrion, 315. 
 
 Merrion Square, 308. 
 
 Metal Bridge. See Welling- 
 ton. 
 
 National Library, 310, 311. 
 Needles, The, 295. 
 Nelson's Pillar, 300, 301, 
 
 315, 316. 
 
 North Bull, 300, 316. 
 North Wall, 300. 
 O'Connell Bridge, 301, 311. 
 Old Bridge, 301. 
 Ormonde Bridge, 301. 
 People's Garden, 303. 
 Phoenix Park, 301, 302-303. 
 Pigeon House, 300, 315. 
 Poddle River, 304. 
 Post Office, 301, 312. 
 
 Preston's Inn, 312. 
 Queen's Bridge, 301. 
 Rathmines, 315. 
 Richmond Bridge, 301, 313. 
 Ringsend, 300. 
 Rock Road, The, 315. 
 Rotunda, 312. 
 Rotunda Hospital, 312. 
 Royal College of Surgeons, 
 
 310. 
 
 Royal Exchange, 305. 
 Rutland Square, 312. 
 Sackville Street, 300, 301, 
 
 312. 
 
 Sarah Bridge, 302, 303. 
 Science and Art Museum, 
 
 310. 
 
 St. George's Church, 313. 
 St. Mary's Abbey, 298, 313- 
 
 314. 
 
 St. Michan's, 313. 
 St. Patrick's Cathedral, 306, 
 
 307-308. 
 
 St. Patrick's Hall, 304. 
 St. Patrick's Well, 307, 310. 
 St. Stephen's Green, 308, 
 
 309. 
 
 Steeven'a Hospital, 304. 
 South Wall, 300, 315. 
 Strawberry Banks, 302, 303. 
 Swift's Hospital, 304. 
 Swivel Bridge. See Butt 
 
 Bridge. 
 
 Trinity College, 308, 309. 
 Trinity College Library, 
 
 309. 
 
 Viceregal Lodge, 303. 
 Victoria Bridge, 301. 
 Wellington Bridge, 301. 
 Wellington Monument, 302. 
 
 322
 
 Index 
 
 Westminster Abbey of Ire- 
 land, The, 307. 
 
 Westmoreland Street, 301. 
 
 Whitworth Bridge, 298, 
 301, 313. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, 303. 
 
 EDINBURGH, 270-294. 
 Arsenal, The, 281. 
 Arthur's Seat, 291, 293. 
 Calton Hill, 278, 280, 292. 
 Candlemakers' Row, 282. 
 Canongate, The, 272, 273, 
 
 281, 289. 
 
 Castle Hill, 275, 281, 282. 
 Castle Rock, The, 272, 278. 
 Cowgate, The, 273, 278. 
 Cross, Canongate Church, 
 
 289. 
 
 Cross, Old City, 287, 288. 
 Dean Bridge, 278. 
 Edinburgh Castle, 272, 275, 
 
 276, 278, 279-281. 
 George the Fourth's Bridge, 
 
 278. 
 Grassmarket, The, 276, 281, 
 
 282, 283. 
 Greenside, 293. 
 Greyfriars' Church, New, 
 
 282, 283. 
 Greyfriars' Church, Old, 
 
 273, 282, 283. 
 Half-Moon Battery, 280. 
 Heart of Midlothian, 285. 
 Heriot's Hospital, 273, 276, 
 
 283-284. 
 
 High Street, 281, 284, 289. 
 Holyrood, Abbey of, 272, 
 
 290. 
 Holyrood Chapel, 290, 291. 
 
 Holyrood Palace, 277, 290, 
 
 291. 
 
 King's Park, 291. 
 Krames, The, 284, 285. 
 Lawn Market, 281, 284. 
 Luckenbooths, 284, 285. 
 Moray House, 289. 
 New Town, 293, 294. 
 Nor' Loch, 278, 286, 293. 
 North Bridge, 278. 
 North Bridge, the New, 278. 
 Old Town, 278, 293, 294. 
 Palace, The, 280-281. 
 Parliament Square, 288. 
 Picture Gallery, 281. 
 Princes Street, 278, 293, 
 
 294. 
 
 Princes Street Gardens, 294. 
 Queen Mary's Bath, 290. 
 Regent's Bridge, 278. 
 Scott Monument, The, 294. 
 South Bridge, The, 278. 
 St. Giles's Church, 277, 284, 
 
 286-287, 288, 289. 
 St. Margaret's Chapel, 280. 
 Tolbooth, Canongate, 289. 
 Tolbooth, Old, 284, 285, 
 
 289. 
 
 Waterloo Bridge, 278. 
 West Bow, 281, 282. 
 White Horse Inn, The, 290. 
 
 THE HAGUE, 99-123. 
 
 Binnenhof, The, 103-105, 
 
 110, 112, 116. 
 Bosch, The, 102, 116, 117, 
 
 118. 
 
 Buitenhof, The, 110, 111. 
 Church of St. James. See 
 
 Groote Kerk. 
 
 323
 
 Index 
 
 Gedempte Spui, 117. 
 Gevangenpoort, The, 102, 
 
 110. 
 
 Groenmarkt, The, 112. 
 Groote Kerk, 116-117. 
 Haagsche Bosch, 102. 
 Het Loo, 109. 
 House of Olden Barneveldt, 
 
 110. 
 
 House of Spinoza, 117. 
 House in the Wood, 100, 
 
 117-118, 148, 152. 
 Huis ten Bosch, 102. See 
 
 House in the Wood. 
 Java Straat, 110, 118. 
 Kneuterdyk, 110, 118. 
 Koninginne Gracht, 99, 111. 
 Koorte Pooten, 111. 
 Korte Voorhout, 111. 
 Lange Pooten, 111. 
 Lange Voorhout, 99, 110. 
 Mauritshuis, 103, 107, 148. 
 Mauritskade, 111. 
 Nieuwe Kerk, 102, 117. 
 Noordeinde Straat, 99, 110. 
 Old Scheveningen Road, 111, 
 
 118. 
 
 Paleis Straat, 111. 
 Plaats, The, 110, 111. 
 Plein, 99, 103, 111, 118. 
 Plein, 1813, 111, 118. 
 Royal Palace, 111. 
 Royal Picture Gallery, 107- 
 
 110. 
 
 Scheveningen, 102, 118-123. 
 Scheveningensche Bosch, 119. 
 Scheveningen, Dunes of, 
 
 122-123. 
 
 s' Gravenshage, 99. 
 Singelsgracht, 111. 
 
 Spui Straat, 111, 112, 
 
 117. 
 
 Tournooiveld, The, 110, 111. 
 Town Hall, 116. 
 Tr6ves Saloon, The, 105. 
 Vischmarkt, The, 112. 
 Vlaming Straat, 112. 
 Vyver, The, 99, 103, 110, 
 
 116. 
 Vyverberg, The, 103, 111, 
 
 118. 
 Willems-Park, 110, 111. 
 
 HAMBURG, 160-186. 
 Adolphs-Platz, 174. 
 Alster Arcades, 170. 
 Alster-Bassin, 169. 
 Alsterdamm, 169. 
 AlsterhShe, 181. 
 Alster, Inner, 169, 178. 
 Alster, Outer, 169. 
 Alster-Pavillion, 160, 170, 
 
 171. 
 
 Alsterthor, 181. 
 Alte-Jungfernstieg, 169. See 
 
 Old Jungfernstieg. 
 Alteland, 162. 
 Altona, 161, 162, 167, 169, 
 
 185. 
 
 Altrahlstadt, 185. 
 Altstadt, 168. 
 Ausser- Alster, 170, 172, 
 
 185. 
 
 Bergedorf, 161. 
 Bille, The, 169. 
 Binnenhafen, The, 176. 
 Binnen- Alster, 169, 170, 171. 
 
 See Alster, Inner. 
 Blankenese, 161, 166, 185. 
 B<5rse, The, 174. 
 
 324
 
 Index 
 
 Botanical Gardens, 182. 
 
 Botanic Museum, 182. 
 
 Cremon, The, 175. 
 
 Cuxhaven, 162, 166, 186. 
 
 Dammthor, The, 182. 
 
 Dammthorstrasse, 182. 
 
 Docks, 172-173. 
 
 Elbe, 161, 162, 165-166, 
 168, 169, 183-184, 185. 
 
 Esplanade, 182. 
 
 Exchange. See Borse. 
 
 Fish Markets, 180, 181. 
 
 Fleets, The, 173-174, 183- 
 184. 
 
 Friedrichsruh, 186. 
 
 GiLnse Markt, The, 182. 
 
 Hafentor, 172. 
 
 Hagenbeck's Animal Collec- 
 tion, 183. 
 
 Hansa Fountain, 182. 
 
 Hansa Platz, 182. 
 
 Harburg, 186. 
 
 Hopfen Markt, The, 180. 
 
 Hop Market, The, 180. 
 
 Horn, 172. 
 
 Johanneum, 181. 
 
 Jungfernstieg, 160, 171. See 
 Alte-Jungfernstieg and 
 Neue-Jungfernstieg. 
 
 Katharlnenstraase, 175. 
 
 Kaufmannadiele, The, 174. 
 
 Klosterthor, 182. 
 
 Kunathalle, 181. 
 
 LombardabrUcke, The, 170, 
 171, 181, 182. 
 
 Ltibeckerthor, The, 182. 
 
 LUneburger Heide, 162, 186. 
 
 Messburg, The, 180. 
 
 Natural History Museum, 
 182. 
 
 Neue-Jungfernstieg, 169. See 
 
 New Jungfernstieg. 
 Neue Pferde Markt, 183. 
 Neuhof, 185. 
 Neustadt, 168. 
 New Jungfernstieg, 177, 
 
 179. 
 
 Ninedorf, 186. 
 Numtihlen, 162. 
 Oevelgonne, 162. 
 Old Jungfernstieg, 170, 178, 
 
 179. 
 
 Othmarschen, 185. 
 Pferde Markt, 181. 
 Post Towers, The, 171. 
 Rathaus, 174-175. 
 Rathaus-Markt, 174, 
 Reesendammbriicke, The, 
 
 170. 
 
 Reichenstrasse, 175. 
 Reimersbrticke, The, 173. 
 Reinbeck, 186. 
 Rodingsmarkt, The, 175. 
 Sachsenwald, 161, 186. 
 Sailors' Home, The, 168. 
 Schleuaenbrncke, The, 170. 
 St. Gertrude's, 173-174. 
 St. Jakobi, Church of, 171, 
 
 179. 
 St. James's, 181. See St. 
 
 Jakobi, Church of. 
 St. Katharine's, 179, 180. 
 St. Michael's Church, 167, 
 
 170. 
 St. Nicholas, Church of, 
 
 171, 176-177, 179-180. 
 St. Pauli, 169, 172. 
 St. Peter, Church of, 171, 
 
 177, 179, 180-181. 
 Stadt Theatre, 182. 
 
 325
 
 Index 
 
 Steinstrasse, 181. 
 Steinthor, The, 182. 
 Stephans Platz, 182. 
 Stintfang, The, 168, 184. 
 Town Hall. See Rathaus. 
 Uhlenhorst, 172, 186. 
 Vierlande, 162. 
 Wandabeck, 185. 
 Zoll Kanal, The, 180. 
 Zoological Gardens, 183. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Adelphi, ffhe, 33. 
 
 Albert Embankment, The, 
 
 35. 
 
 Aldgate, 62. 
 
 Bank of England, 59, 60. 
 Bankside, 31. 
 Battersea Bridge, 37, 38. 
 Battersea Fields, 38. 
 Battersea Park, 38. 
 Big Ben, 35. 
 Billingsgate Market, 26. 
 Bishopgate Street, 60, 62. 
 Bear Gardens, 31. 
 Belle Sauvage, La, 53. 
 Bermondsey, 21. 
 Birdcage Walk, 45. 
 Blackfriars Bridge, 31. 
 Blackheath, 15, 34. 
 Blackwell Tunnel, 19. 
 Borough, The. See South- 
 
 wark. 
 
 Bow Bells, 67. 
 Bow Church, 67. 
 Bread Street, 68. 
 British Museum, 47. 
 Buckingham Palace, 45. 
 Caesar's Tower. See White 
 
 Tower. 
 
 Cannon Street, 12. 
 Chapel of St. John (Tower) , 
 
 24. 
 Chapel of St. Peter ad Vin- 
 
 cula, 25. 
 
 Chapel of the Pyx, 41. 
 Charing Cross, 34, 44, 49- 
 
 50. 
 Charing Cross Railway 
 
 Bridge, 34. 
 Chelsea Bridge, 37. 
 Cheapside, 15, 46, 58, 59. 
 Cleopatra's Needle, 33. 
 City of London, 13-17, 18, 
 
 50. 
 
 City of Masts, 20. 
 Chiswick Eyot, 39. 
 Cock Lane, 47. 
 Constitution Hill, 45. 
 Cornhill, 59, 60, 62. 
 Coronation Chairs, 43. 
 Christ's Hospital, 47. 
 Cheapside Cross, 58. 
 Cheyne Walk, 38. 
 Chelsea Embankment, 37. 
 Chelsea Hospital, 37. 
 Cremorne Gardens, 38. 
 Crosby Hall, 60-62. 
 Custom House, 26. 
 Duke Humphrey's Walk, 
 
 63. 
 
 East London, 62. 
 Edgeware Road, 46. 
 Edward the Confessor's 
 
 Chapel, 42. 
 Epping Forest, 62. 
 Execution Dock, 21. 
 Fleet, The, 32. 
 Fleet Prison, 32. 
 Fleet Street, 60, 62. 
 
 326
 
 Index 
 
 Folly on the Thames, The, 
 
 29. 
 
 Friday Street, 58. 
 Fulham, 39. 
 Fulham Palace, 39. 
 Globe Theatre, 31. 
 Golden Gallery, 56. 
 Gray's Inn, 52. 
 Gray's Inn Walks, 52. 
 "Great Paul," 57. 
 Greater London, 18. 
 Green Park, 45. 
 Greenwich, 19. 
 Greenwich Hospital, 19. 
 Greenwich Park, 19. 
 Greenwich Tunnel, 19. 
 Grosvenor Embankment, 37. 
 Guildhall, The, 16, 58-59. 
 Hammersmith, 39. 
 Hampstead, 16. 
 Henry VII.'s Chapel, 43. 
 Hertford House, 46. 
 Highgate, 16. 
 Holborn, 32, 46, 47. 
 Horse Guards, 45. 
 House of Commons, 41. 
 House of Lords, 41. 
 Houses of Parliament, 34- 
 
 35. 
 
 Hurlingham House, 39. 
 Hyde Park, 45, 46. 
 Hyde Park Corner, 45, 48. 
 Inns of Court, The four, 
 
 50-52. 
 
 Jacob's Island, 21. 
 Jerusalem Chamber, The, 
 
 41. 
 
 Kensington Gardens, 45, 46. 
 Kensington Palace, 46. 
 King's College, 33. 
 
 Lambeth Bridge, 36. 
 Lambeth Marsh, or Marsh- 
 es, 31, 34. 
 
 Lambeth Palace, 35-37. 
 Law Courts, 50. 
 Limehouse, 20-21. 
 Lincoln's Inn, 51. 
 London Bridge, 13, 14, 15, 
 
 26-27, 29, 32, 62. 
 London Docks, 20. 
 London Stone, 12. 
 Ludgate, 15. 
 Ludgate Hill, 52-53. 
 Manchester Square, 46. 
 Mansion House, 59, 60. 
 Marble Arch, 46. 
 Marshalsea Gaol, 30. 
 Mermaid Tavern, The, 58. 
 Mitre, The, 52. 
 Modern Babylon, The, 11. 
 Monument, The (London), 
 
 17, 26. 
 
 Moorfields, 16. 
 National Gallery, The 
 
 (London), 49. 
 Nelson's Column, Trafalgar 
 
 Square, 49. 
 Newgate, 46. 
 Newgate Prison, 18, 47. 
 Nonsuch House, 27. 
 Old Lady of Threadneedle 
 
 Street, 60. 
 
 Oxford Street, 46, 47. 
 Pall Mall, 48. 
 Park Lane, 45, 46. 
 Paul's Cross, 54. 
 Paul's Walk, 53. 
 Piccadilly, 48. 
 Pimlico Railway Bridge, 
 
 37. 
 
 327
 
 Index 
 
 Poet's Corner, 42. 
 
 Pool, The, 20. 
 
 Poultry, The, 59. 
 
 Putney, 38. 
 
 Putney Bridge, 39. 
 
 Pye Corner, 47. 
 
 Queen Eleanor's Cross, 49. 
 
 Queen's Stair, The, 23. 
 
 Ratcliffe Highway, 21. 
 
 Rotherhithe, 20. 
 
 Rotten Row, 46. 
 
 Royal Exchange, 59, 60. 
 
 Savoy Palace, 15, 33. 
 
 Sebert, Tomb of, 42. 
 
 Serpentine, The, 40. 
 
 Ship, The (Greenwich), 19. 
 
 Smithfield, 14, 15, 16, 47, 
 54. 
 
 Somerset House, 33. 
 
 South Kensington, 46. 
 
 Southwark, 13, 15, 30. 
 
 Southwark Bridge, 32. 
 
 Spitalfields, 17. 
 
 St. Bartholomew's Hospi- 
 tal, 48. 
 
 St. Bartholomew's Priory, 
 47, 48. 
 
 St. Clement's Danes, 50. 
 
 St. Giles's, Cripplegate, 58. 
 
 St. Helen's, Bishopgate, 60- 
 61. 
 
 St. Katharine's Docks, 20, 
 21. 
 
 St. Margaret's, Westmin- 
 ster, 44. 
 
 St. Martin-in-the-Fields, 
 London, 49. 
 
 St. Mary-le-Bow. See Bow 
 Church. 
 
 St. Mary-le-Strand, 50. 
 
 328 
 
 St. Saviour's, Southwark, 
 30-31. 
 
 St. Sepulchre's, 47. 
 
 St. Stephen's Cloisters, 43. 
 
 St. Stephen's Crypt, West- 
 minster, 40. 
 
 St. Thomas's Hospital, 35. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, 13, 16, 
 27, 54-57. 
 
 St. Paul's, Bells of, 67. 
 
 St. Paul's, Old, 53, 55. 
 
 Steelyard, The, 32. 
 
 Strand, The, 15, 49, 50. 
 
 Stone Gallery, 56, 57. 
 
 Stone of Scone, 43. 
 
 Swan Theatre, 31. 
 
 Tabard Inn, 30. 
 
 Tate Gallery, 37. 
 
 Temple, The, 60. 
 
 Temple Bar, 50, 52. 
 
 Temple Church, 51. 
 
 Temple, Inner, 61. 
 
 Temple, Middle, 51. 
 
 Thames, The, 19, 27, 29. 
 
 Thames Tunnel, 19, 20. 
 
 Thorney, 34. 
 
 Threadneedle Street, 59, 60. 
 
 Tower, The, 15, 21-25, 62. 
 
 Tower Bridge, 21. 
 
 Tower Hill, 25, 26. 
 
 Tower Subway, 26. 
 
 Trafalgar Square, 48, 49. 
 
 Traitors' Gate, 21, 23. 
 
 Trinity Square Gardens, 25. 
 
 Vauxhall Bridge, 37. 
 
 Vauxhall Gardens, 37. 
 
 Victoria and Albert Docks, 
 19. 
 
 Victoria Bridge, 37. 
 
 Victoria Embankment, 33.
 
 Index 
 
 Wallace Collection, 47. 
 Wallbrook, The, 32. 
 Wandsworth, 38. 
 Wapping, 21. 
 Water Gate, 34. 
 Waterloo Bridge, 29, 33. 
 West End, The, 17, 60. 
 West India Dock, 20. 
 Westminster Abbey, 13, 41- 
 
 43. 
 " Westminster Abbey of the 
 
 City," The, 61. 
 Westminster Bridge, 31, 
 
 35. 
 
 Westminster Hall, 40. 
 Westminster Palace, 35, 39. 
 Whispering Gallery, 55, 
 
 56. 
 
 White Chapel, 62. 
 White Hart Inn, South- 
 
 wark, 30. 
 
 Whitehall, 40, 44-45, 48. 
 White Tower, The, 13, 22, 
 
 24. 
 
 Wood Street, 58. 
 Woolwich, 19. 
 York House, 44. 
 
 STOCKHOLM, 222-249. 
 
 Adolf-Fredrika-Kyrka, The, 
 239. 
 
 Berzelii Park, 237. 
 
 Blasieholmen, 240. 
 
 Blasieholm. See Blasiehol- 
 men. 
 
 Blasieholmshamnen, 240. 
 
 Brunkeberg, 239. 
 
 Brunkebergs-Torg, 238. 
 
 Brunnsviken, 244. 
 
 Carl XII.'s Torg, 240. 
 
 Djurgarden, 238, 241-242, 
 
 248. 
 
 Djurgiirds-Staden, 242. 
 Drotting-Gatan, 238. 
 Drottningholm, 245. 
 Exchange, The, 229. 
 Frisens-Park, 242. 
 German Church. See Tyeka 
 
 Kyrka. 
 Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg, 237, 
 
 238. 
 
 Haga, 244. 
 
 Hasselbacken, The, 242. 
 Helgeandsholm, 223, 228, 
 
 237. 
 
 Humlegard, The, 239. 
 Jacobs-Kyrka, 237. 
 Johannes-Kyrka, The, 239. 
 Kanonier-Kasern, 241. 
 Karl-Johans-Kyrka, 241. 
 Kastelhohnen, 241, 247. 
 Katarina-Kyrka, 240. 
 King's Garden, The. See 
 
 Kungstrttdgard. 
 Klara Kyrka, The, 238. 
 Kornhamns Torg, 230. 
 Kungstradgard, The, 237. 
 Lake Malar, 222, 230, 231, 
 
 239, 240. 
 Lejonbacken, 231. 
 Logiirden, 231. 
 Malar Market, 230. 
 Maria-Kyrka, 240. 
 Meat Market, 230. 
 Mosebacken Garden, The, 
 
 240. 
 
 Munkbro, 230. 
 National Museum, The, 
 
 240-241. 
 Norrbro, 229, 231, 236. 
 
 329
 
 Index 
 
 NorrstrSm, The, 237, 238. 
 Northern Museum, The, 
 
 242. 
 
 Ostermalm, 238, 239. 
 Radhus, 235. 
 Regfirings-Gatan, 238. 
 Ridderholm, 222, 228. 
 Riddarholmen. See Riddar- 
 
 holm. 
 Riddarholm Church, 229. 
 
 See Riddarholms-Kyrka. 
 Riddarholms-Kyrka, The, 
 
 235-236. 
 
 Riddarhus, The, 235. 
 Riddarhus-Torg, 234. 
 Rosendal, 244. 
 Royal Museum of Armour 
 
 and Costume, 233. 
 Royal Palace, The, 229, 
 
 230-233. 
 Royal Skating Club, 241, 
 
 247. 
 
 SaltjS, 222, 229. 
 Skansen, 242-244. 
 Skeppsholmen, 241. 
 Skeppsholms-Bro, 241. 
 Skeppsbro, 231, 234. 
 Slottsbacken, 231, 232. 
 Slussen, The, 230. 
 
 SBdermalm, 229, 230, 239, 
 
 240. 
 
 SSderstrom, 230, 239. 
 SMra Teater, 240. 
 St. Clare's. See Klara 
 
 Kyrka. 
 St. Gertrude, Chapel of, 
 
 234. 
 St. Nicholas, Church of, 
 
 229. See Storkyrka. 
 Staden, 229, 230, 237, 239. 
 Stora Ny-Gatan, 234. 
 Storkyrka, 229, 233-234. 
 Stor-Torg, The, 229, 234, 
 
 248. 
 Strandvag, 242. See Strand- 
 
 vagen. 
 
 Strandvagen, 238. 
 Strom-Gatan, 238. 
 Stromparterre, The, 237. 
 Svartman-Gatan, 234. 
 Telephone Tower, The, 238. 
 Town Hall. See Radhus. 
 Tyska Kyrka, The, 234. 
 Ulriksdal, 244. 
 Valhalla-Vag, 239. 
 Venice of the North, The, 
 
 222. 
 Veaterlang-Gatan, 234. 
 
 330
 
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