mm^ it' ^^^4 .^S:^! ^'j-: "M-r THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES is^;,;: >t. m0^r U\:. '^i W^-^--' fS%. n'^^rMrws«»^s-' Vv:t ■M N ;.*^ W ,. Iff'"- m: • ■ , V .: AGNP]S C. p. WATT. TWENTV-FIVE VEARS' MISSION LIFE ON TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES. c4^.^^ c^ ^?i^/^ AGNES C. P. WATT TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' MISSION LIFE ON rv TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES. BI0(4RAPHICAL SKETCH AND INTRODUCTION BY REV. T. WATT LEGGATT, NEW HEBRIDES. J. AND R. PARLANE, PAISLEY. .JOHN iMENZIES .\>il) CO., EDINBURGH .\NT) (iLASOOW. HOULSTON .\ND SONS, LONDON. 1896. 3C.S0 PREFACE This book was undertaken at the request of many- friends who had appreciated Mrs Watt's general letters- and desired to have them in a permanent form. Although the New Hebrides has been a good deal written about of late, I believe that there is still room for the present work. These letters exhibit mission, work from a somewhat unusual view-point ; inasmuch as they record twenty-five years' faithful and incessant work with little apparent result. It is not difficult to be cheerful and enthusiastic in a flood-tide of success ;. but it is given to few to labour as Mrs Watt laboured, amid reverses and discouragement, for a quarter of a century, and meet the summons home with a heart as- hopeful as on the first day she set foot on Tanna. Years of hope deferred, no doubt impressed her with ajuster appreciation of the difficulties of the work, yet to the end disappointment failed to damp her ardour or sour her kindly disposition. She never despaired of Tanna, nor lost her faith that the gospel of Christ, which she offered to its people, was the power of God unto salvation to all who believe. 835J)CiG in f'h'EFACK. The materials at my commaiul were far from being so full as I could have desireil, and residence on a remote island, with unfrequent communication, has occasioned considerable delay in collecting them and completing the work. I have endeavoured to let her tell the story of her life and work in her own letters and journals. Sometimes an explanatory note is appended, or passages from letters of different date are inserted, where the same subject is referred to ; but in every case this has been indicated. I can only hope that to some extent I have succeeded ; and that this may not only be an addition to the literature uf Missions, but also a source of <*omfort and inspiration to others who may be working for Christ in depressing and discouraging circumstances •eithr>r at homo or abroad. T. Watt Leggatt. •'Amy (Jektridk Kisskij/" Mission ITotse, auix.'^. m.\i.kklla, N'kw Hkp.KIDks. Mnnh, ISUC. C O N ^r K N T S 1»A6E BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 17 TANNA AND ITS MISSIONARIES 47 Xetters. I. MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND 08 TO HER FATHER. II. FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLANDS 62 GENERAL LETTER. IIL BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA 77 I. TO HER FATHER. •2. TO THE FAMILY. 3. TO THE FAMILY, IV. MAN TANNA 104 V. SETTLING NEW MISSIONARIES 114 TO THE FAMILY. 12 COXTi:XTS. VI. PAtlK STREAKS OF DAW N 1-*.H 1. Til THK t;l>.\S<;0\V KOrNhKY Hoys' KKI.I SIMIKTV. •J. Tu THK TRKASIKKK OK TlIK (;l.AS(;o\V ForNl»KV r.oV>' RKIJiJIntS SCMIKTY. Vll. HOW W i: SI'KXT THK HOT SKASOX OF IsTu ... i:V2 VIII FIRST EXI'ERIENCE OF A HURRICANE 14-' To THK K^Mrl.^. IX. A (JLIMPSE OF CIVILISATIOX. THE MARTYRDOM OF TAUKA 1"'_> 1. TO THK KAMIIA. •2. KXTRAf'TS KROM .rori;\AI.. :i. TO THK F\M1IA. X. "EARTHQUAKES, WARS. AXh lU'MOURS OF WARS" ■ H>4 To THK KVMIIA. XI. RAIX MAKIXt; 17H \II. TH0U(;HTS ABOUT HOMF. iioiXc 1S5 To II KK IVUKNTS. X I I I BACK TO TAN'XA H!> To HKK KVTHKk. CONTENTS. 13 XIV. I'AGK FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA 2()() TO THE FAMILY. XV. INCIDENTS— FOLKLORE 211 OOMI'ILED FROM LETTERS IN 1882-83. XVL IN PERILS BY SEA 217 GENERAL LETTER, 1SS4. XVII. ON ANIWA 226 COMPILED. XVIII. A MONOTONOUS SUMMER 239 GENERAL LETTER, 1885. XIX. AN ILLUSTRATED LETTER 252 GENERAL LETTER, 1886. XX. EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD 271 GENERAL LETTER, 1S87. XXI, TOILING ON 282 GENERAL LETTERS, 1887-88. XXIL "AND THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED THAT MEN SHOULD REPENT" 294 GENERAL LETTER. 14 COXTKXTS. Will. i*A<:k CLOUDS AND SUNSHINK :i"7 GKNKKAL LKTTKK. XXIV. INTO HARNESS AiiAlN :V2ti IJENKKAI. I.KTTKk. XXV. SICKNESS AND WAR :W0 CENKRAI. I.KTTKK, XX\"1. THE CAKE OE ALL THE CHURCHES :W7 TO MISS CROIL, MONTREAL, CANADA. xxvn. A COOL SEASON'S WORK 352 fiENEKAI. I.KTTER. XXNlll. "FAINT, VET I'URSUINCi" „ 360 GENERAL LKTTKK. XXIX. WAITINC 36S THE LAST CENEKAL LETTKK. APPENDI.X. MEMORIAL MINUTES, ETC :«1 I L LIST RAT IONS. I'AOK AiiNES C. P. WATT ... ... ... ... ... ... Froiilifjiiece MR AM) MK.S WATT — AT MAKKIAKIC ... ... ... ... 'I'l CHURCH, WITH MKMORIAI. WINDOW ... ... ... ... ',V.) MRS watt's (iRAVK... ... ... ... ... ... ... 41 TABLET IN CHIKCII .. ... ... ... ... ... ... 44 MEMORIAL WINDOW... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4") GRAVE.S OF .MR.S I'ATON ANU MR .JOHNSTON ... ... ... ">! VOLCANO (Y.\S00R) AND LAKE (ii) GRASS CHURCH, KWAMERA 75 KWAMERA FROM THK .SEA ... ... ... ... ... ... S'v TANNA MEN — MODE OF DRESSING THEIR HAIR H)7 KW.-VMERA NATIVES AND TEACHERS (XAHI-ABBA TO THE RIGHT) l(j"> WATERFALL, IFEFE, TANNA 17") YAM (iARDEN... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 191 FIRST COMMUNICANTS AT KWAMERA ... ... ... ... 209 STREAM AT KWAMERA ... ... ... ... ... .. 21^ OLD MISSION HOUSE, PORT RESOLUTION 221 MR AND MRS WATT... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2o'i\ K\V.\MERA — CHURCH AND MISSION HOUSE 255 VEMEITAHAK AND NANCY 259" GIRLS IN MISSION HOUSE AT KWAMERA 261 TANNA MEN AND BOYS 208 HOUY'E — FROM A PHOTO TAKEN IN MELBOURNE 265 TANNA WOMAN ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 267 BOYS WITH YAMS 273 PUBLIC SQU.\RE, MALEKULA 277 SYNOD OF 1889, HELD AT KWAMERA ... ... ... ... 313 SCHOOL-HOUSE, VANATUAN 317 CHURCH AND PEOPLE — PORT RESOLUTION 325 YECRIMU 339 LINE OF MARCH 341 PARTY AT CRATER, VASOOR 347 WATERFALL AT KWAMERA 375 IGNES C. P. WATT. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. AGNES CRAIG, the eldest daughter of Robert Paterson, merchant, and his wife Agnes Campbell, was born in Tylefield Street, Glasgow, Scotland, on the 27th September, 1846. In those days her birthplace was a quiet and almost rural locality, although somewhat less aristocratic than in the earlier years of the century. Even then the wealthy merchants had begun to leave their substantial mansions for more fashionable quarters. Over their quiet demesnes straggling streets of two-storey houses were rising, where douce weaver bodies, in apron and Kilmarnock nightcap, drove the shuttle, or in their leisure hours delved their kailyairds or discussed politics with their cronies. Now-a-days the mansion houses have been replaced by huge mills and foundries, whose workers and their families reside in the gaunt unlovely tenements which are fast displacing the picturesque dwellings of the decent hand-loom weavers. Little Agnes Paterson was the child of many vows and prayers. Her two elder brothers had died in is .4(;.v/;.s' r. /•. watt. infaucy, aiul lur uwu health caused much anxiety to her parents. Referring to that time in a letter to herself after she had left home, her father says : " How earnest I was that you should be spared. Many a time the silent desire went up, that if God would spare you I would be willing that He should u.se you for His service in any way He chose." While she was (juite young the family removed to Carluke, where her father had a cottage, and there most of her early years were spent. During her resilience there, the great Revival movement of 1859 swejit over Scotland, into which Mr Paterson entered with his whole heart. He took an active part in organising and keeping up meetings in that village, and under his roof the speakers usually resided. One of the evangelists, who thus visited Carluke, was a Ml Ilobert Steel, a gentleman farmer, near Biggar ; and Agnes ever regarded him as her sjDiritual father, and for many years corresponded with him on religious nmtters. Another of those who came to help in the good work was a Mr William Veitch of Edinburgh ; who also gave a daughter (^Irs Milne of Nguna) to mission work in the New Hebrides. The two fathers lost sight of each other for many years till the departure of Mr anil Mrs Milne for these islands (where the Watts were already stationed) led to a renewal of intercourse. About l.S(J2 Mr Paterson and his family returned to town, and took up their abode in Pollok Road, Shawlands, on the south-side ©f Glasgow. Their residence was not very far from the ancient burgh of Pollokshaws, and in the vicinity of Langside, where in BlOHliAI'HlCAL SKETCH. \9 1568 the battle between the forces of the Regent Moray and Mary Queen of Scots was fought — an encounter which finally shattered the fortunes of that beautiful but misguided sovereign. While living at PoUok Road, Agnes found many opportunities for Christian work. Tract distribution, reading the Scriptures to aged and sick people, and teaching in the Sabbath School, were all taken up with characteristic heartiness. Being the eldest dauohter, a good many domestic duties fell to her lot. Her special charge was the care of the younger children, who were as fondly attached to her as she to them. Although the families of Patersons and Watts were closely related, it was not until they came to reside in Shawlands that Agnes became acquainted with her father's cousin, who was destined to become her husband. Mr William Watt was at that time attending his final session in Divinity at the Reformed Presbyterian Hall, with the intention of devoting himself to mission work in the New Hebrides, which the Reformed Presbyterian Church or " Cameronians," although few in numbers, had adopted as their Mission field with considerable ardour. Six missionaries from this historic church had already gone out there, in addition to which it may also be mentioned that it had also maintained for many years a Mission among the Jews in London. Mr Watt's elder brother John, also a Divinity student, was residing with the Patersons at the time, and giving lessons to some of the famil3^ While visiting him the two young people met. Their intimacy ripened into a very warm affection, which led -_M A(;yEs c. r. ha tt. her in due time to accept his invitation to share with him the trials and danijers of Mission life. There are. probably, but lew women who do not feel liunoured by the esteem expressed in an otier of marriaj^e ; but when the oflfer comes, as in this case, from one who has devoted his life to the evangelising of a savage anort a native teacher on Tanna. Right noblv has this Society fulfilled its promise. Several teachers employed by Mr Watt on Tanna have been supported by it up to the present day. It has sent out annually boxes of doth and other u.seful articles to the natives. Last, but Ity nil means least, in iNT-i' it sent out a fine Printing Press, which it has also kept supplied with type and paper. This press has been a initst valuable lilOd HA PHICA L SKETCH. 23 adjunct to the mission in the New Hebrides. Other islands as well as Tanna have been benefited by it, as lesson sheets, hymns, and portions of Scripture have been printed from it. This continued interest in mission work was, to a very great extent, due to Mrs Watt's frequent and interesting letters which were read at the meetings of the Society. These letters and her addresses while at home were the means of leading several connected with the Society to go out as missionaries to heathen lands. On June 3rd, they left Glasgow for Liverpool to join the " White Star," a sailing vessel of 2500 tons, which was going out to Melbourne with a large number of emigrants. Those who have gone through such an experience will thank me for passing over the parting in silence. It was borne on both sides with Christian fortitude. In Liverpool they were the guests of the Rev. Dr Symington of Birkenhead. From there Mrs Watt wrote home daily, one might almost say hourly, until the vessel sailed. In one letter referring to her railway journey, she says : " I may tell you I felt happy, although sorr}^ very sorry to part with you all. I had an inward joy, that it was in order to carry the gospel to the heathen I had gone. Thus far I have proved God to be a covenant-keeping God. ' As thy days, so shall thy strength be.' May He comfort and sustain you all in the hour of trial. ' Cast thy burden on the Lord, and He shall sustain thee.' Think of me not only as going from you, but also as under the special protection of God, who says : ' Touch not mine anointed, and do my prophets no harm.' " 24 AdXES C. r. WATT. Thus she is calm ami resolved and hopeful — resting on the blessed promises which are all Yea and Amen in Christ Jesus. She has taken the first step in her missionary career. Resolutely she has put her hand to the plough, nor tmce looks back, for she has reckoned the cost. Together the devoted couple set their faces to " the regions beyond. For friends and home "Sonic natural tear.s tlicy iln>ii|t\l. Imt wijied them soon; The world wa.s all before them. . . . And Pnivideiiee their iruide." On June Sth they sailed from Liverpool. That day she took every opportunity of sending home farewell messages, even from such unlikely places as the quay while waiting on the tender to take them off to the vessel. The voyage to Melbourne took eighty-two days, and was on the whole "very enjoyable. Their passages hail been taken in the " Sulina '" which left a week or two earlier, but owing to Mr Watt s having an attack of facial paralysis, they were transferred to the "White Star." As it turned out the delay was providential, for not only had they longer time at home before sailing, but reached the colonics before the steamer. The "White Star" having .some six hundred emigrants on board, they were enabled to do much good among them. After obtaining permission from the authorities on board, Mr Watt conducted Divine Service on the poop-deck on Sabbaths. Along with Mrs Watt, he held weekly Bible Classes and Prayer Meetings on different evenings during the week, among the single men, single women, and married people ; by all of whom their ministrations were much appreciated. niOaHAI'IIICAL Sh'J^JTC/r. 25: By the tug which accompanied thein well down the ' channel she sent back the following letter : "We have much to encourage us with regard to weather. I have scarcely felt that the ship was moving, only I feel as if I were sitting on a spring- bottomed chair. We have good food ; the only difference from home is that we have one accompaniment to every meal ; we get potatoes twenty-one times a week for a rarity. If you ask me what I get to breakfast I would say ' taties ' ; what to dinner, ' taties ' ; what to supper, ' taties.' Now you are not to think that we get nothing but potatoes ; there are plenty of other things ; roast beef, boiled cabbage, smoked ham, fresh eggs, pies, tarts, and eveiything that is good. We havfr a splendid cabin and a large saloon." Evidently the voyage was just beginning, for on the- 10th she writes : " We were aroused this morning by the captain calling, ' Get your letters ready.' The tug is going off, and I have only one feeling of sorrow that I cannot send you letters by the way ; but daily, nay, constantl}^, shall my prayer ascend to Jesus that we may be all one with Him. Then shall we soon meet and be an undivided family in heaven. It is vain to wish to meet on earth, if after we meet we have to part again." After some kind messages to her brothers and sisters, she concludes : " Mother, this is for you, ' Because thou hast not withheld thy child, therefore in blessing I will bless thee ' ; and father, see in my mission to the heathen the result of faithful pious training and an answer to prayer." They arrived at Melbourne on the 21st September, and were warmly received by friends of the mission. as .i'..v/;.s' c. i\ watt. With their wonted thoughtl'ulness tlie Rev. J. ami Mrs Clark of Williamstown came oft' to the ship in u boat and took them ashore. They also stayed with the Rev. Dr Maeilonald of Emerald Hill (Sonth Melbourne), and the Smellies. who were old family friemls. Their intention had been to proceed direct to the Islands by the first vessel which mii,'ht be going in that direction ; but in Melbourne they were strongly advised to go round by New Zealand. By s<» doing they would become acquainted with the church which was to support them, and embark for the New Hebrides in the mission vessel " Dayspring." They reached Wellington in the end of September, and spent several months travelling through the countrv visiting the different congregations. To Mrs Watt, with her deep love of nature, the magnificent scenery of New Zealand was a source of great delight. Everywhere they met with kindnes.s, and formed many lasting friendships, so that when they departed at last for their lonely outpost of duty they were cheered with the assurance that the church had them constantly in tender and prayerful remembrance. By some strange instinct Mrs Watt had always looked forward to settling on the island of Tanna : and was actually somewhat anxious lest they should be sent to Erakor Efate, from which Mr Morrison was retiring through ill health. Her mind was therefore set at rest by a letter from the Rev. J. Inglis of Aneit3"um, who took it for granted that Tanna was to be their destination ; and they were cheered by the prospects of a favourable ripening there. The letter also announced that the Rev. T. Neilson had been settled at \\)vi Resolution, and BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 27 that the Aneityiunese at Aname were making cinet for the building of their house. The Assembly of the Presbyterian Church of New Zealand was held that year in Wellington, in the month of November, 1868 ; but on account of the unsettled state of the country, owing to the Maori war, only seven ministers were present. It was agreed to raise Mr Watt's salary to £150 per annum, instead of the modest £120 at which he was engaged. They were also granted a whale-boat, and £30 to purchase timber for a house. When the meeting of Assembly was over the Watts proceeded to Dunedin, where they joined the " Dayspring," and after calling again at Wellington, they went on to Auckland, which port they left for the islands on March 31st, and arrived at Aneityum on the 18th of April. They then went round the group to see the several stations, and, so far as they could, the work of the Mission. At the Annual Meeting of the Missionaries (now called the Synod), they were designated to Kwamera at the south-east point of Tanna ; and Messrs Inglis and Neilson were appointed to assist in their settlement. Kwamera was considered to be a very promising opening, and certainly the people gave them a very hearty welcome. It was not long, however, until they made it abundantly plain that the calico, knives, and other things which the missionary brought were much more valued by them than his teaching. Moreover, Kwamera was on the weather side of the island, exposed to the full force of the S.E. trade winds. It had no shelter whatever for the Mission vessel, and only a very narrow passage through the reef for landing. Frequently the •J.S ALXJiS C. I'. WATT. " Dayspring had to lie oft" and on for days until the sea would moderate suthciently to ailnw \n-\- boats to land their stores. Passengers embarking hail many a long and dangerous passage from the shore to the ship. In those days dithciilty <>f access was supposed to protect the natives fmm undesirable traders; but in this the advantage was very slight, while the discomfort and nervous strain of boating told severely on Mrs Watt's health. The first break in their island life was a short visit to Sydney in 1874. Two years later they had a furlough of three months in New Zealand. In 1S7H they left for a visit to Scotland, which they reached in March, 187^, when Mrs Watt had about eleven months at home, and greatly enjoyed the society of her loved ones. ( )n that visit, she invariably refused to speak at public meetings, but by her vivid descriptions of native life and mission work in private gatherings she did much to stimulate fresh interest in the New Hebrides. On the 6th February, ISSO, they left England in the (')rient steamer " Chimboruzo." The weather was rough when they started, and increased in severity. (Jn the second day out, a huge wave struck the vessel and heeled her over. The heavy steam launch and five boats, together with almost everything on the spar deck, were carried away. One of the passengers and two seamen were washed overboard, and another killed on board, while eighteen were more or less severely injun.'d. It was indeed a very narrow escape, for the engine sky-light was carried away, and had another wave broken over them, the engine room would have BIOilRAPlIWAL SKETCH. 29 been flooded and the fires put out. That afternoon the captain managed to get the vessel round and put back for Plymouth, where the passengers were sent ashore while the steamer returned to London for repairs. In ten days she was ready, and started out again in the teeth of another gale, which however moderated, and with the exception of a break-down of the engines for a few hours, they had a prosperous voyage, reaching Sydney in safety on the 8th of April. Two days later they left for the New Hebrides in the " Dayspring," which had been detained to pick them up. Shortly before their arrival on Kwamera, a dreadful hurricane swept over the islands, which destroyed the natives' food and severely tried the Mission buildings. Their welcome back was on that account rather a sad one. The exciting .scenes through which they had passed, and the suspense occasioned by the news of the hurricane, had a very disturbing effect ou Mrs Watt's nervous system, so that in 1881 she was compelled to go to Melbourne, in the " Dayspring," for medical advice, while Mr Watt remained on Tanna. Of Dr Macmillan, whom she consulted, she ever afterwards spoke with liveliest gratitude. Soon after their return from Scotland, the Rev. J. G. Paton and family went up to Melbourne, and at his request the Mission Synod appointed Mr Watt to the oversight of the work in Aniwa. From that time until 1889, Aniwa and its concerns took up a considerable part of Mrs Watt's time and care. They were no strangers to the people, as on previous occasions they had taken charge during the missionary's furloughs. ■M) Ai.XL's c. J', ivatj: ( 111 the whole, they enjoyed these visits exceedingly. The peaceful character of the people, their attention to the ordinances of religion and desire for instruction, con- trasted so favourably with the warlike and superstitious Tannese. They had the pleasure of seeing their efforts appreciated by a grateful people, and also of seeing some of the An i wans go out for the first time as teachers to heathen islands. Often did Mrs Watt call Aniwa her " Bethany." It was hallowed by past associations of joy and sorrow shared with her " dearest Mission sister," Mrs Paton. It was a calm retreat for a season from the turmoils ami fightings of obstinate "terrible Tanna." But with all that, it was a ver}' considerable drain on her vital force. There were frequent packings and unpackings, as most of the household stuff had to be carried to and fro ; nerve-straining and exhausting boat voyages, and no less wearisome tossing.?, sometimes for a week at a time, in the " Dayspring." Their connection with Aniwa terminated on the occasion of their visit home in 188f>. Tu 18SG and 1889 the Mission Synod met at Kwamera. On these occasions Mrs Watt was in her element. She liked to have a crowd of friends around her, and quite enjoyed the bustle of entertaining them. Towards the end of 1889 they revisited Scotland iu order to carry the Tannese New Testament through the press. The National Bible Society of Scotlantl IkuI received a legacy which was to be expended in the ]>ublication of a translation of the New Tt-stament in one of the South Sea languages. The offer was niailr U> the New lUOajLM'niCAL SKETCH. 31 Hebrides Mission, antl as there was no other translation nearly ready at the time, Mr Watt, with the sanction of the Mission Synod, accepted it for the south-eastern dialects of Tanna. "They Avent home in the "Orizaba," and had an exceptionally fine voyage. The " Jubilee Singers " travelled with them as far as Colombo, and gave much pleasure to all on board by their music. Immediately on their arrival at home, arrangements were made for printing ; and for months life seemed to consist in revising and correcting proofs. After the New Testament was finished, Mrs Watt compiled and translated an illustrated Scripture History of 2G0 pp. 8vo., the lessons being taken from the " Peep of Day" series. The book is an admirable epitome of the Old Testament, and is a great favourite on Tanna and among the people of Aniwa who understand Tannese. As she had now been twenty years a missionary Mrs Watt was less reluctant to address public meetings. In a very short time her services in this direction were greatly in re(|uest. In Edinburgh, during the sittings of the Assemblies, she addressed several of the annual meetings and breakfasts of Missionary Associations, held at that time. Her melloAv voice, and the interesting manner in which she drew on her large store of information concerning the natives and their customs, together with her intense longing for the salvation of the heathen, made her addresses very popular. The interest was much increased by her sinsfing of Tannese hvmns. The greatest favourite was an adaptation of " Fade, fade, each earthlv joy," which •A-2 Ai.XES C. /: WATT. liad been translated by a Taiinainaii named Kaiasi from a hymn he had heard on Epi. Possibly some may be interested in seeing this hymn in the Tannese dialect : Jesiis is mine. 1 Yesu YtTUiuami, Yi'su asori, Yesu Yeiuiiianu. Yesu seiaii. Tk "nareiijri iiabieii, Mariiiyi iiaiuisaicii, Ik "iiane iiakwaruarua 'roini tuke iavi. 2 Yesu Yerninaim. Yesu asori, Yesu Yeruiiiaiiu. Yesu soiau, Ti aren^'i uabieii Fei Yesu tuketaha, 'Napa sei ya iieai, ^fc'iiia tuketaha. 3 Yesu Yeruniauu, Yesu asori. Yesu Yeniuianu, Yesu seiaii, Nanfrelonie ya neai. Xeruiaiiia ya tuprana, Tu ani iia'ugen aba, Yesu ikiiiaii. 4 Yesu Yeruuianu, Yesu asori, Yesu Yerunianu, Yesu seiau. Nehekerieu .seiau Kasori Atua, Yesu naniuruvien Saketalia pani. 5 Yesu Yerunianu, Yesu asori. Yesu Yerunianu. Ve^^u seiau, Yesu aniasan. Yesu Yerunianu. Yesu tik abi iau, Muvehe yesa. BIOanM'HICAL SKETCH. 3:i They returned to the New Hebrides by the San Francisco route ; and so arranged their journey over America that they were able to spend some time in >sova Scotia and Canada, where they received much kindness from the ministers and people of the Presby- terian Church. It was no ordinary pleasure to Mrs Watt to visit the church which had sent out Dr Geddie, the first missionary to the New Hebrides. In New Zealand they made a tour round most of the congre- gations, and the hearty reception they received banished their fears that the church had lost sympathy with them and their work. During their absence great changes had been taking place in the islands. The " Daj^spring," no longer able to overtake the work of the Mission, was laid up, and latterly sold. An arrange- ment was entered into with the A.U.S.N. Co. by which their steamers from Sydney to Fiji would connect with the " Truganini," a small steamer which was to run round the group monthly. After running for rather more than a vear, the " Trug'anini " was wrecked at Aneityum during a hurricane, but in less than two- months the Company had replaced her by the " Croydon," which was considerably larg-er. None of us in the islands considered the steam service perfect ; but the frequency of communication was very much prized. Fresh from the magnificent ocean-liners, perhaps Mrs Watt expected too much from the little " Croydon," which was unable to land at their station on two successive trips owing to rough weather. At any rate her first impressions of the steam-service were decidedly unfavourable ; but she soon saw cause to think better of it. 3 •M AdXKS C. I'. WATT. Tile principal event after her return to Tanna was the placin<( of the New Testament in the hands of the people, anil Mr and Mrs Watt were very much gratified at the eagerness of the people to have copies ; because books, and especially foreign-printed ones, hatl always been regarded b}' the superstitious Tannese as a certain cause ot sickness and death. After that came the building of the new church at Port Resolution, for which she chose the name of" The Workers' Memorial," to commemorate all who had taken part in the evangelisation of Tanna — a long roll of missionaries and native teachers, beginning with John Williams and the Samoans, whom he placed at Port Resolution on the 19th November, 1839. After settling down, Mr and Mrs Watt devoted themselves to a much greater extent than formerly to itinerating among the villages, a work which, while exposing Mrs Watt to much fatigue and discomfort, was rightly regarded by her as of the highest importance. The instruction imparted by native teachers is iv>t of a very profound nature at the best, and when left too much alone it still further deteriorates. Early in 1893 she had a severe illness which left her very weak. To add to her discomfort the steam-service was discontinued owing to the New South Wales Government having withdrawn their subsidy. A sailing vessel called the " Lark " was sent down by the Australasian New Hebrides Company ; but, whilst a more frequent service was provided than had been done by the " Dayspring," to say that this vessel failed to overtake the work is putting it very mildly indeed. In the end of the year, while the " Lark " was lying at HIOURA PHICA L SKKTCH. 35 Port Resolution, just about to sail for Sydney, and the "long dark tunnel" of the hot season, which she so much dreaded, was opening up before her, Mrs Watt was gladdened by the return of the "Croydon." During the hurricane season, although she was far from strong, and a tumour on her foot made walking painful, she spent much time in visiting the out-stations ; residing alternately at Kwamera and Port Resolution. Before the steamer was taken off Mr and Mrs Watt had made arrangements to entertain the Synod of 1893 at Aneityum, as a celebration of their silver wedding. The withdrawal of the steamer prevented the Synod from meeting that year, causing Mrs Watt great disappointment. The ladies of the Mission showed their esteem for her by a valuable present of silver plate. They had planned to go up to New Zealand for a short holiday at the end of that year, but the pleasurable anticipation of the trip was much overcast by a foreboding that if she once left the islands, she would never be able to return. Ever since her father had unexpectedly entered into his rest, she had a strong presentiment that she would be called away in like manner. Sudden death, — so dreadful to most, — had, through long contemplation, lost its terror for her. Although she was devotedly attached to her husband and to her work, yet we cannot wonder that sickness, weariness, and hope deferred created in her at times a longing to depart and be with Christ. In the beginning of April they came round from Kwamera to Port Resolution to prepare for going to the Synod at Aneityum. .% A<;XKS C. /'. WATT. Two days before her death there were very few ovit at morning school and worship, and Mrs Watt went round the nearer villages in search of them. She found tliem engrossed in preparations for some heathen rites, but civil and ready to listen to her. On Wednesday, Sani, her Aneityumese cook, being occupied with other duties, she had a long forenoon in tin- hot kitchen. ^ JcJ«^r^c^ 2/ -. id^^ cc €U' Jc^ ^/' ^^'^ ^^'^^ / / Quite exhausted, she had to lie down with a sic-k headache, which lasted the whole afternoon. Towards evening she revived somewhat. After tea and worship she spent several hours writing letters and filling up her diary, and, as she occasionally did, entered in it the date for the next day. Just before retiring she road hiouhai'iiil'al skktc/i. 37 aloud a little leaflet-poem she ha.d found in her desk, on an old man crooning his grandchild to sleep with the ]isalm tunes he had learned long ago. It concludes : — " Goodness and mercy all my life Slijill surely follow me : And in (iod's house for evermore ]My dwellinji-place shall be." •■ KiL:hTy-seven His mile-.sto)ie, A home in heaven Soon his own. He is only waitiuii' now For a crown upon his brow." Next morning she rose about six o'clock, bright and cheerful, to resume her daily duties. Before reaching the bathroom which opened off her room, she complained of giddiness and sat down on the sofa. Mr Watt was at her side in a moment, and found she had fainted. He applied restoratives under which she revived, and said, " How did you know that I was ill ? I have no recollection of anything." When he repeated what she had said, she replied, " My dear William, I am thankful you awoke me, I don't think I would ever have come out of it. I never was so near death before." He assisted her back to bed where she lay down, but in a short time became much distressed by sickness. Some little relief was obtained, but in a very short time her feet and hands began to grow cold. By this time she felt she was dying, and said to her husband, " I am going to leave you now, dearie." Struggling against admitting what was becoming only too evident. :« A'.xi'.s ('. /-. II .1 /r. he replied, " Oh no, Agnes, you have many times been as ill before." Very soon, however, sickness and tainting returned, from which she never recovered ; and in less than an hour from the time she awoke from sleep. Agnes Watt had entered into the sunshine of the "perfect day." She passed from the out-post duty of the Foreijrn Field into blessed and glorious service in the presence of the King. During one brief interval of the final struggle she said, " How true it is, that in life we are in death," and asjain, "A dying bed is no place to prepare for eternity." No sooner diil tiie news of her death spread, than crowds of her dark-skinned brothers and sisters gathered round and poured out their unrestrained grief All day long they filed through the room to see her for the last time ; while some sat on the Hoor and looked on her from morn till night. Mrs Martin, the wife of a trader, came over to assist the faithful servants, Ripa and Yecrimu, to lay her out for burial, while Mr Martin hastily prepared a cotHn. Meanwhile me.ssengers had started ofl' to tell the teachers all the way along to Kwamera, and in the opposite direction to bring Mr Gray, a brother missionary, from Weasisi. Mr Gray arrived about five p.m., and, shortly afterwards, Mr Forlong, a missionary trader from Kwamera, along with the teachers from that district. As it was too late to hold a service in the church, the cottin was brought out to the verandah, where the natives crowded round to take their last look at the still face of her who had loved them so well. In the deepening gloaming they bore her to her grave, at the place where she had often said she wished to be rmi;rii. WITH mi;m(ii;i.\i, n\i\i>ii\\. 4<) AUXKS C. I'. WATT. buried, beneath a breadfruit tree beside the "Workers' Memorial Church. A hymn she hail herself translated, • There's a land that is lairer than day," was sung, and prayer oti'ered by Pavenga, an Aniwan teacher : and slowly, amid the sobs and tears of the pe On the day after the funeral Mr Gray and Mr Forlong put a border of stones round the grave, antl covered it with white coral gravel. Afterwards a MEMORIAL WINDOW. railing was put up and a simple tablet of wood placed at the head, bearing her name with the dates of her birth and death and the Tannese words : 4tj AdXES ('. /'. WATT. •Ill rain nakiir Ipaio." (She loved the people of 'I'aiiiia.) A more ilurable inouuinent uf ^'ranite will probably be erected there. Since then Mr Watt has placed a memorial window in the chunli. The design embraces a medallion portrait of Mrs Watt over a Scriptural scene. The artist has very skilfully represented ^Irs Watt, in earlier years, as IJorcas giving out garments to needy natives. On either side of the medallion rises a Scotch tir and a cocoa-nut palm, while her favourite Hower, the white rose, with the Scotch thistle and a Tannese hibiscus are displayed at the base, and the text from Proverbs xxxi. 21), " Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou excellest them all." TANNA AND ITS MISSIONARIES. IN 1605 Quiros, a Spanish navigator, sailed from the port of Callao, South America, to search for the great southern coiitinent of Australia. Passing through several groups of islands, on the 30th April, 160G, he sighted land to the south-east, which seemed so large that he felt certain that his long-desired goal had been attained. In pious gratitude he named it " The Great Southern land of the Holy Ghost." Australia, however, was yet beyond his horizon, and all that was loaded with his sonorous appellation was but the largest and most northern island of the New Hebrides group. Into a wide bay opening to the north he and his consort, Torres, sailed. Anchoring near the mouth of a river, which he called the Jordan, he drew up a plan and appointed municipal officers for a city to be built there, and named it New Jerusalem. As one would expect from his manner of dealing with them, he was not very kindly received *by the natives. In a short time, skirmishes, fruitless foraging expeditions inland, and the violent illness of many of his people from eating poisonous fish, wore off the glamour of the new discovery, and compelled them to leave. Nothing 48 A<;x/:s <: r. ir.i rr. more was lieanl of the islands tor about a century anil a half, when in ITti"^ Hou^janville circumnavigated Santu and iliscovered several of the northern islands, which he named the Grand C'vclades. In 1774 Captain Cook entered the irroiiii from the north and oast anchor in a harbour on Malekula, which he named after the Earl oi Sandwich, then First Loid of the Atlmiralty. He sailed as far south as Tanna, which he describes at length in his interesting journals, and north again to the scene of <:^)uiros" discovery. He surveyed the islands so thoroughly, that he considered himself entitled to re-name the whole group as the New Hebrides. On his voyage southward from Erromanga he was attracted to Tanna by the bright glare of Yasoor, the volcano, then, as now, a pillar of cloud by da}^ and of fire by night. He named the harbour in which he anchored, " Port Resolution," after his vessel. His experience of the Tannese was much the same as that of all who have had dealings with them since. He found them insolent and daring thieves. They picked up whatever was neither too hot nor too heavy to carry oti"; and were even attempting to tear the ensign from its staff. They laid hold of the anchor buoys, and, when iired at, retreated for a moment, but returned so soon as they found themselves unhurt. He managed to establish friendly relations with a few of them, and learneil the names of the suri'ounding islands, viz. : Erromanga, Immer (Aniwa), Erionan (Futuna), anil Annatom (Aneityum). Curiously enough, through a very natural mistake, he put down the native word for "earth'" (tana), which in .some TAXXA AM) ITS M ISSJOXA HI ES. 49 form is common throughout the Pacific, as the name of the island. The name is likelv to remain now. despite all explanations and efforts to change it. It is called "Tpare" by some, but that means simply " inland." The natives themselves speak of the island as "Tana sore" (the great land), to distinguish it from the smaller islands of Anivva and Futuna. Now the natives are familiar with the designations of the islands as known to us, but it may be doubted if originally there were names for entire islands of any size, in use by the people themselves. In most cases, the earlier navigators only learned the name of the district on which they landed. Captain Cook also discovered that the Tannese were cannibals, which was a matter of surprise to him, as food seemed abundant. He noted also the curious manner in which the men dressed their hair, which has led some ethnologists to find affinities between them and the ancient Assyrians. The first attempt at evangelising Tanna was made in 1839, when John Williams visited Port Resolution in the " Camden." Although his reception was some- what rough, he deemed it sufficiently favourable to justify him in settling three Samoan teachers there. Next day (20th November) he and Mr Harris were martyred on Erromanga. With noble Christian spirit the London Missionary Society determined to win for Christ the savage inhabitants of those lovely isles already taken possession of as it were by the blood of their heroic missionaries. In 1842 Messrs Turner and Nisbet were sent out to the New Hebrides and landed at Port Resolution, but were only able to remain for seven months owing to the 4 .".(• Ai.XKs c. /'. II .1 yy. hostility of the natives. Time and again, thereafter, teachers from Samoa and Raratonga were stationed, only to be driven off or killed. In 18.')8 tiie Rev. J. G. Paton and his wife with the Rev. Joseph Copelantl were settled at Port Resolution, and the Rev. J. W. and Airs Mathieson at the south-east end of the island now called Kwamera. Shortly tiiereafter, the Rev. Samuel F. and Mrs Johnston came from Nova Scotia intending to settle on the West Coast, a project which in the providence of God was not })ermitted. Within four years, however, the gospel liglit was to all appearance again quenched on Tanna amid war and persecution. Mr Copeland was removed to Aneityum, Mrs Paton with her infant son and Mr Johnston were sleeping in their graves close by the glass}- waters of the bay ; and Mr Paton with Mr and Mrs Mathieson also felt constrained to leave. After a brief interval Aneityumese teachers resumed the work and held the fort until 18G7, when the Rev. Thomas Neilson, accompanied by his wife — a daughter of the Rev. Dr Geddie of Aneityum — was appointed. The fickle Taunese had been under- stood to wish for a missionary ; but when Mr Neilson presented himself, they vigorously opposed his landing, and threw the timber for his house back into the sea as quickly as it was put ashore. They gave as a reason, that they were angry because H.M.S. " Cura^oa" had bombarded them. The follow- ing year they had so far relented as to allow Mr Neilson to settle amongst them. He laboured faithfully until 1882, when he felt constrained to leave on account of his own impaired health, the education of his family, and the long continued unwillingness of the people to TAXXA A XI) ITS MISSIOXABIES. 51 give up heathenism. In 1869 the Rev. William and Mrs Watt were .settled at Kwamera under ver}^ favour- able auspices, and when Mr Neilson left they took charofe of Port Resolution in addition. In 1882 a new station six miles north of Port Resolution, called Weasisi, was opened by the Rev. W. and Mrs Gray from South Australia. They laboured devotedly for twelve years amid many vicissitudes, and often in no GRAVES OF MRS PATON AND JIR JOHNSTON. small danger. Quite recently a young missionary, the Rev. A. Macmillan, M.A., from Aberdeen, Scotland, has been appointed to the work demitted by Mr Gray. New ground has been taken up on the West Coast by the third son of the venerable Dr Paton — the Rev. Frank H. L. Paton, B.D. " Mission work on Tanna," writes the Rev. W. Watt in 1887, " has had a chequered histor}-. Time and AliXES C. P. WATT. again has it been taken up in liope, only to be given up in almost despair. How much is involved in such words as 'giving up,' 'abandoning,' ' being compelled to leave!' We may be sure that none of the European missionaries deserted their posts as long as they considered the ground tenable, and those who know the Samoan and Raratongan teachers would say the same for them ; some of them, be it remembered, were faithful even unto death. The story of the evangelisa- tion of Tanna tells of bright hopes fondly cherished, until rudely crushed ; days of hard, unremitting toil, of anxious watching and waiting, of trial and reverses. Those of us who are at present at our posts have had much the same experiences as our predecessors, although in the good Providence of God we have been enabled to hold on, and have met with some measure of success." Xcttcis, I. MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 'I'(t HKR I ATHER. My Dearest Father, — I will write this letter to you as the first of a course in which I intend to give you always a full account of my peregrinations. I will give you all information up to a certain time, and in my next begin at the ver}^ spot I left. In this way all my letters put together will form a journal. Monday, August 1st, 1868. In Rev. J. Clark's, Williamstown. After breakfast, went down to the " White Star " accompanied by Mr and Mrs Clark and little Maggie. Such friendly people ! How my heart clung to them seeing I was a stranger in a strange land ; and I felt they were kindred spirits. Before we got down to the pier we met the Rev. D. Macdonald of Emerald Hill (a stout Highlander). He had come down to meet us, thinking we would not yet have left the ship ; and neither we would, had not Mr Clark got a special permit. We all went on boaixl and had dinner, and havino- seen after our luogaoe, wc aQain o4 AaS^^i C. /'. WATT. steppeil into the small boat aiul were pulled tt) land. As Mr Macdonald was going from home, he wished u.s to go up to Emerahl Hill with him : ])ut I was very tired, and all mv things were in Williamstown, so I remained at Mrs Clark's, while William went with Mr Macdonald. I tlid nothinLT that dav but lesteil. Williamstown <|uite fulfils mv idea of a place in the colonies. The greater number of the houses are made of wood, and have verandahs. Some of the smaller ones are like match-boxes, but the white paintcil h(iu.ses are really beautiful. The town is being laid out in streets, but to the eye of a stranger it looks as if every one just pitched his tent wherever he pleased. Mr Clark gave "US encourao-inof news of the Mission ; all the missionaries seem to be prospering and in good spirits. After dinner on Tuesday, William and 1 went down to the vessel and got whatever things 1 wanted, and took a train from the Pier to Melbourne. The distance ■altogether is about fourteen miles. It was daik, and I did not see tht^ country round about, but 1 afterwards saw^ it, and cannot sav 1 was struck with its beaut v. . . . The Yarra is a low-lying muddy river. ] am told that when they have heavy rain it overflows its banks and floods the streets. . . . You will perhaps like to hear what I thought ol Mell)i)inne. Well, it is most wonderful for the time it has been in existence; the streets are wide, and there are some nice shops. Indeed, the buildings and shops are splendid, most (jf them having .shades before the doois, and in them you can get everything " tr .va'ii" /j:m..\xi>. 55 a very large town. . . . There are plenty of theatres and low public houses, dozens of signs, — "All drinks threepence." ... St. Kilda is about four miles from Emerald Hill. We took the train there one day with ^ Miss Middleton (Mr Maedonald's sister-in-law), went round the beach, through the town, and then walked home. Really it is the most beautiful town I have ever seen, and were I going to live near Melbourne it is there I would settle. I only wish you could see it ! The one drawback for me is, that out here no one can bathe in the sea for fear of sharks. There are, however, public baths in the sea fenced with rails so close that the sharks cannot get through. . . . I mentioned in mv iournal that we were ffoing to New Zealand. Rev. J. and Mrs Inglis are to be there, and we are to go and meet them. There would be no use of setting off to Aneityum, while Mr Inglis was not there. We will be able to excite interest in the Mission, see the people who are to support us, and sail from thence in the " Dayspring." . . . Monday, 7th August. The Rev. D. Macdonald introduced us to a young man named Daniel Macdonald, who to-day came and took us to the Public Library and Museum. The Library is free ; any one can go in and take down a book and read for any length of time without charge. The collection is large and finely bound. In the same building is a picture gallery, and I think the paintings extremely good. There is also a Statuary room. We also went to the Botanical Gardens, where there is much to interest. Most of the plants are foreign to me. Things that only grow in hothouses at home grow in the open air here ; such as grapes and ">G AOXES C. P. WATT. pejiches ... I understand this is a very changeable climate : in the morning it will be bitterly cold, then in the middle of the day a hot wind will spring up, and at night a cold damn chill .set in. Thev are much annoved with dust storms : I have only seen one. The dust comes in .such clouds that I am told business is often stopped. Now I must tell you about Daniel Macdonald. He is a young man nearly seven feet high, strong and muscular looking. He is studying with the view of joining our Mi.ssion in the course of two years or so. I like him very mucli. and I think he will make a splendid mi.ssionary. If appearance has any effect upon the natives he will have an advantage, for he is head and shoulders above everybody . . . M.vM'WATr, New Zealand, Oct. 22, 18(58. Though to many the jottings I take of myjourney- ings in a strange land may seem dry and uninteresting, yet I know you wall be glad to read anything sent from me ; so I will give you a .short account of a trip from Wellington to Manawatu. We rose this mornincr at foin- o'clock, and, after a little repast, set out nn our day's journey. We had twenty minutes' walk to Col)b t*c Co.'s "Telegraph Line of Mail Coaches" Otiice, where Ave took out tickets, got our luggage put in the coach, and set ourselves beside it. We drove past the Post Office where the mails were lifted, along Lambton Quay and out the road by the Hutt. The morning was fine, and I enjoved the run to Nstahnuranffa, where we turned into a vallev or yorue winding for six or eififht miles up. The appearance of the sides was very grand : MKLBOCnXI': AXI> NEW ZEALAND. 57 they rose about two hundred feet high, and were covered with rich foliage of a deep green and beautified here and there with chimps of whins. After reaching the end of the valle}^ we came to a small village or township named Johnsonville, and just then a thick Scotch mist intercepted our view. New Zealand climate and scenery are very like those of Scotland ; one feels almost as if at the coast for the summer months ; but there are some things that remind one that we are in the colonies. Some of the houses are such miserable huts, not much biooer than a large hat box, and literallv buried in mud. The weather has been wet for some time here, and the roads in many places are a foot deep. When at home in Scotland I could not understand how the missionaries lived in such lonely places ; but my knowledge has become greatly extended since then, both with respect to position and quality of houses. Some are miles and miles from their nearest neighbours, surrounded by blacks, and their mansions not so good by a long way as some of our farm appendages at home. Yon have no idea of the life that some live here to make money. If a story were to get up that there was gold, there would be thousands readv to banish them- selves for filthy lucre's sake. It is a disgrace that people are more willing to sacrifice all for that which shall perish in the using, than for the riches that shall stand the wreck of "falling worlds." However, you must not think that all the houses in the country are so poor. No ; there are some which make us look one to another and say, "civilization is here." . . . We were taking notes as we trudged along. We saw fences put up neatly without nails, just tied .■)8 A(.-XES C. I'. WATT. with • siipple-jark,' large trees doing iluty as bridges haviui; a fence ou one side ; others trees were hollowed out like canoes and served for drains and gutters. But to return to nn^journey. After having passed through the last mentioned village we ran along Porirua valley, about two miles long ; and having reached the other end of it we stopped at Horokiwi Hotel, where we had breakfast. I can tell you I was reatly for mine ; for although I had had something to eat, after the shaking and jolting 1 was beginning to feel sufficiently hungry, as it was now ten o'clock. We had a changfe of horses and set out once more on our journey through Horokiwi valley, which was about five miles long. The first half, which was over rising gi'ound, reminded me somewhat of the scenery going up to the Falls of Clyde, only far surpassing it in grandeur. You know the insatiable appetite I have for scenery, and you will believe me when I tell you I would not have liked to have missed the feast I had in passing through this and the Paikakariki valley. Horokiwi valley was splendid, having trees of a great height with leaves twelve feet long. The sides rose to an immense height ; in some places, I believe, to more than eight hundred feet. The road was often not a foot broader than was necessary for the coach to pass. But the most gorgeous part was yet to come, and by far the most dangerous. In descending, there was an awful abyss below us, and the r(jad was cut along the windings of the hill. At the t(jp we were eight hundred and fifty feet above sea level, and looking down the almost perpendicular rock, sheep on the level seemed like so many kittens: while our path was. MELBOURNE AX if XEW ZEALAXI). 59 if anything, narrower than on the ascent. Had we swerved half-a-foot, or had the horses become restive, we would have been dashed to pieces. It was glorious, and at the same time awful. The driver and horses have gone over this road for three years. We started from Wellington with live horses, but at Horokiwi changetl them for two only, which have been trained for these terrific places ; and having carried us safely over and let^ us on the sea level, their work for the day was done. We then got five others and broad wheels, for now we had to run along forty miles of beach. How I wish 1 could paint our route and describe the view we had ! On the right hand sandbanks covered with green and yellow grass so tall that you could see nothing beyond it. If you were transported here you would almost think you had come where human foot had never trod, so lovely yet barren like is the shore. On the left was the ocean, stretching away into the far distance. I could see an island (Kapiti) resembling Cumbrae, only that it was much larger. It called up fond recollections of past friends and associations when I thought of the happy picnics and merry sails we had on and round the little island on the Clyde. The tide was out and we had fine roads. The shells along the beach were truly pretty ; some were white as the .VA'ir ZEALAXJ). 61 side for us. He was on horseback, but had brought a man with a trap to drive us to liis house, which was tour or tivc miles distant. Here we got jolting of no ordinary nature ; however, we at length arrived safely. After a drive of seventy miles, occupying fourteen hours, but which I enjoyed immensely, I was glad to sit down at last to tea in a comfortable house. . . . I am still, Your daughter, Agnes. II. FIRST SIGHT OF THK ISLANDS. gb:neral letter. Lll.WINt; AlCKLANU IN TJIK I )|S1A M K, Maicli 31gt, 1869. I now beiiin to fulfil my promise of jotting down whatever I think may interest you. We came on board the " Dayspring '' yesterday morning, and after getting our cabin in order I sat down and wrote to a few friends. In the evening we M'ent to tea in the Rev. Mr liruce's, and returned about half-past nine, when we found all in a great bustle getting ready for sailing . . . We turned in for the night and had a good sleep, feeling quite secure from cockroaches with our nice mosquito netting. This morning we rose ab(jut seven, and after the usual routine of worship, breakfast, kc, a large number of Auckland friends came off to hold a valedictory meeting ; at which Captain Fraser's child was to be baptised. It was a refreshing gathering and a very touching one. There was Mr Inglis, the veteran missionary, who had spent the best of his strength in the New Hebrides, returning to resume his duties ; Mr Morrison also, who had been obliged to rest awliile, returning to the place on which his heart was set; and there were we, young and full of hope, entering on a field totally new to us, only I'lusr sKijiT OF rill-; jsl.wds. n-.i girding on the armour, but ever saying, " If Thy presence go not with us, carry us not up hence." We had tht' pleasure of meeting the Rev. Mr and Mrs Macdonald, who had laboured fifteen years in Samoa, and I felt much encouraged by their parental counsels and sympathy. They sat and held me by the hand as if I had been their daughter. They had been in my position themselves. All afternoon we were chatting and bidding good-bye until about five o'clock, when we lifted anchor and bade adieu to the shores of New Zealand. One or two friends accompanied us out to the Heads, and went back in the pilot boat, while we were left to pursue our voyage. What a world of meetings and partings ! The sick delights to think of heaven as a place where the inhabitant " shall no more say, I am sick." Those racked with pain rejoice to say, " neither shall there be any more pain." We who have oar hearts torn with parting, look forward with joy to that time when we "shall meet to part no more." My sorest parting was with my own parents and brothers and sisters ; in the light of that, all other partings seem trivial ! . . . On board we have as passengers Rev. J. and Mrs Inglis, Rev. Mr Morrison with his wafe, child, and servant; Mrs Logan and her niece (Aggie M'Donald), and Miss Clark, who are going on a visit ; Mrs Fraser (the captain's wdfe), with three children and native servant, in addition to ourselves ; seventeen in all in the cabin. Now^ I will stop writing for a night. Mr Watt is up on deck enjoying the beautiful clear moonlight. I will take a peep upstairs and then retire to rest. How nicely we are going ! 64 .K.XES C. /'. II'.! y 7'. April Ist. Little to report to-day. 1 have beeu busy attending the sea-sick, for most feel uncomfortable, aiul as I escape that disagreeable malady, the tilling out of tea and a number of other duties devolve on me. Mnndav, April ')th. Shipboard life is much alike every dav except Sabbath. At eleven a.m. yesterday we had a native service, wiiich Mr I nglis requested us to attend. I wish you could have seen the earnest looks ; and though 1 km^w not the language, I felt that these people believed in that (Jod they were professing to worship. At three, and again at seven, we had service in English, at which all the crew attended. Thursday, April 8th. Yesterday we passed Hunter's Island, and this morning we sighted the lovely island of Aneityum, beautiful in its moral as well as its physical aspect. I soon jumped on deck to see the island, and it did look pretty rising up out of the boundless ocean with its richly wooded hills and .luxuriant foliage. The triangular coral reef, forming one side of the harbour, attracted my attention. The wave rising over this is iirst of rich green, and rolling along, it gets lighter and lighter until it breaks into spray. Once inside the reef we were in smooth water, and soon were lying at anchor. In a few minutes V Dr Geddie was on board, and we were gladdened to hear that things were progressing favourably on Aneityum. He brought with him some splendid oranges, which were very large and luscious. After dinner we went on shore. I had to be carried from the boat by two young men who made a seat with their hands, on which I sat with my arms round their necks. I think I see how you will look when you picture me FIRST SWHT OF THE ISLANDS. 65 in such a position, for you must remember that they were black men. Once safely landed, what a gathering- there was ! About twenty-four young women, all dressed in clean clothes, consisting of a native skirt, made of a sort of grass, and a blouse or jacket, each face cleaner than the other. They had brown, velvety- looking skins and beautiful black eyes ; they would have gained the affection of any one. As they had €ome down to welcome us, we had to go round them all and shake hands. This ceremony over we went into Mrs Geddie's picturesque house. Little Ella Geddie and I were soon friends, and she took me away all through the church, a very nice plastered stone building, enclosed by a reed fence. Then we had a walk through the garden to see the orange and banana trees. Friday 9th. To-day I had my first meal of taro and bananas, and enjoyed them much. The natives are very fond of children, and to-day when Caj^tain Eraser's wife brought her baby on shore, what a crowd rushed to see the little man ! They could do nothing but utter shouts of astonishment over him. Coming off to the " Dayspring " in the evening, we had natives pulling the boat. As they were not pulling well, we managed to tell them to sing, thinking that might help ; but oh, such music ! they shouted so loud that when we wished to tell them to slow, not a word could be heard. When we got to the vessel, those who had been helping the crew and those who came off with us were invited to take tea. I need not say they required no second invitation, as " kai-kai " is a thing that never comes amiss to a native. When satisfied, they went on shore singing as before. (It; AI.XES C. /'. UATT. Monday 12th. Yesterday we went ashore to the native service. The church bell rings for five minutes, and the people assemble at nine dclock. They have two services without an interval. Dr Geddie took the first and Mr Inglis the second. After service a number of the people came round and shook hands with us. In the afternoon we had two services in English, at which all the crew of the " Dayspring " were present, who, by their good conduct, are a credit to the vessel,. and set a good example to the natives. The church is plastered, has glass windows, the pulpit and the minister's pew being covered with turkey red, and the floor all laid with mats. It looks very well, and would hold from eight to nine hundred of a congregation. . . . About nine o'clock this morning Mrs Inglis came on board and said to me, "The sea is calm and we are going home, just get your things and come along with us to Auame, and the ' Dayspring ' will pick you up on Wednesday.' This we most gladly did, and after a beautiful sail of four hours, during which we enjoyed lovely scenery, passing exquisite valleys and sailing over beds of coral of every hue, we were landed at our destination, amidst a large concourse of happy faces, all glad to see " Missi " back, and each more eager than another to carry something. Although Mrs Inglis had been away for four months, she had a house in splendid order to go to; everything was in its own place, which I think says much for her training. Seeing the day was calm, the girls were expecting us, and had roast fcnvl and taro ready for dinner, so in an hour after our arrival we sat down to a plentiful and well prepared meal. The Mission Station here is quite a model, Fiiisr sii;iiT or Tin: /s/.ax/>s. 67 nothing trifling or flimsy like, and all very clean. There is a Church, a Training Institution, and a dwelling house with many appendages, such as carpenter's shop, smith's shop, store-room, &e. The situation is not so good as might be wished ; but to remedy this Mr Inglis has built a small cottage up the hill where they can live during the hot season. As they pay strict attention to the laws of health they get on well. The Mission ground is well stocked with orange and other fruit trees, and towering above all is the cocoa-nut palm, from which, on the hottest day, one can get a nice cool drink of cocoa-nut milk. Tuesday l-Sth. In the morning we Avere awakened by the church bell ringing the people to school, which all attend from six to seven, before going to their plantations. The Bible is the sole book. It is a real national Scriptural education the natives here receive. There are schools all over the island, within ten minutes' walk of each home, and these are presided over by native teachers. These teachers are of great value, and, I may say, give their labour free, for they only receive £1 per annum for their services. The natives are well behaved ; in each house family worship is held morning and evening. Thursday 15th. Yesterday was the Prayer Meeting day. It is held every Wednesday afternoon, and I was much struck by the attendance. All day the natives came in from every quarter to welcome " Missi," so that when the hour for worship arrived some three himdred people had assembled. . . . Monday 19th. Yesterday, although the morning was wet, a larsre concrregation assembled. It moves me to 68 Ai.XES C. /'. WATT. see them so much in earnest ; they put to shame many in hi<:jhly favoured Scothind ; and when one thinks that a few years ago they were cannibals and most abomin- able heathen, one cannot help exclaiming, " It is oi the Lord." It also incites us to labom-, and we hope yet to see the poor degraded Tannese, who have hitherto been proverbial for their wickedness, become, through ?0 o 2 l«. 86 A<;XES C. r. WATT. boii<,'ht for food. Soon we hope to get up a goat-house and a carpenter's shop. William is framing a spare bedroom, which we are trying to get up during the cool ■weather, so that we will have no building to do in the hot weather. Now, in order to give j'ou an idea of how we live and spend our time, I will keep a journal for this week. Yesterday, — Sabbath. We rose about half-past six, had breakfast and family worship, and then dressed for church. We dress for church just as if we were at home ; William in linen shirt, black clothes and clean boots, and I with a clean muslin or print dress. Before the service commences, one of the teachers beats a thing like a small boat, which is the Sabbath bell. At nine o'clock we went over to the church, which is about two hundred yards distant, and sat down, as it is the custom here to let the minister in first, and the people follow. The service began by William reading the Lord's Prayer, which he has translated through the teacliers : then we sang a hymn, one of half a dozen prepared by Mr Paton while residing on Tanna ; Kaipapa, the chief -of Anuikaraka, prayed, after which William read a chapter from the gospel of Mark, translated in the same way. Another hymn, "There is a happy land," and one of the teachers addressed them. A hymn followed, ''Here we suffer grief and pain," another native prayed, then the closing hymn, " Lord, a little band and lowly," and the benediction. After this, the intimations were given out. Paul says that a woman is not allowed to .speak in the church ; and I wonder what some people would say if they knew that there was only one seat ill the church, serving as ])ulpit and minister's pew. » /;A'(.7AA7.\V/ 1\<)/.'K ox TAWA. S7 and that, till yesterday, I have always given out the intimations ! During the building of the house I had, and still have, most of the intercoui'se with the natives, and in this way I have picked up a few words sooner than William. The attendance was good, thirteen men and seventeen women ; counting the Aneityumese and ourselves there were thirty-seven of a congregation. After the Tannese service there was another among the teachers, to which William stayed, while I went and taught the women to sing. Fifteen followed me and sang most heartily, accompanied by the harmonium. After the music I gave a lesson on the alphabet by means of a box of letters which came in Miss Glen's box, and lastly a lesson in figures on the slate. Sabbath is the only day I can get them to listen to any instruction. While I was busy with the women, William had four or five men. After this we had dinner, and read for two hours, when William and one of the teachers went and had service at Anuikaraka. They came home at five, had tea, and an English service at seven, at which Mr Underwood, the trader who is here, was present. The ■(.lay was delightful, and our hearts were cheered by so many having come to worship. But I must describe Kaipapa's appearance. He had on a blue flannel shirt, which was a good deal too short ; his long hair was tied on the top of his head with a piece of bright printed handkerchief; his cheeks were painted black, a stripe of scarlet half an inch broad began at the right temple, ■crossed the eyelid, came dow-n the side of the nose and round half of the mouth. A stripe of yellow adorned the other side in the same manner ; while a red stripe came down the bridge of the nose ! Now, don't you 88 AUXES C. y. IVATT. admire liiiii :" Well, that is the man who led in the first prayer, and, although he is a heathen and has three wives, still he has manifested a gi-eat deal of kindness to us, and was among the foremost in urging the people here to get a missionary. He has brought u.s several presents which I always took care to pay for, as I do not wish to be in debt to any one. He is not much of a chief, but is a clever, officious fellow. Yesterday week we heard that a man had stolen a woman, that the offended party had declared war, and that all our people would join, as the offended people were many, and it would take all the force they could muster to meet them. Though we were not at all involved, we felt very sad, for our people would be so taken up that our efforts would be stopped for a time, and the pursuers were wild heathen — the worst we know of here. But God, who sets bounds to the wrath of man, had otherwise appointee!. Kaipapa sent two pigs and two sticks of tobacco as a present, which was accepted, and thus ended the quarrel. We were rejoiced. Kaipapa is tired of war. He says, now that a missionary has come, his people will not fight. Time will tell. Monday. We rose shortly after six a.m. Nothing of interest occurred, few natives having come this way, knowing that my beads were all away. William was busy at the frame of our new room, and I at sewing. Tuesday. This morning we had scarcely got break- fast over, when a number of natives came to " asipau " or look at my house, and from that time till far on in the day I never closed the door, and had to bake in the midst of it all ! They were not very troublesome, only I had to sit down with mv hands all Hour and "make BEdlXXlXa WORK ON TANNA. ^\> the bokis speak." The trader here came over in great distress, and saitl that the natives had threatened to make him sick. Those who have any interest advise him to leave no rubbish about, for they believe that if he were to smoke one half of a fig of tobacco, and a native sot the other half and burned it, he would become sick ; if the native continued to burn it until it Avas all consumed, he would die. He has got into disrepute somehow with the people. He does not pay so well as we do I . . . They have strange ways of doing things. I engage a boy to bring water ; three go, and I have to pay each the same. Now, Mr Underwood agrees to pay two men a fig of tobacco each for scraping a tubful of cocoa-nut. Four helped to scrape it, and all wanted the pay. This he could not, and would not give, so he broke the tobacco in two. It turns out that there is nothing so good as tobacco for making people sick. Therefore they are anxious to get it whole, for if some one burns the other half they think they will die. . . . Wednesday. To-day, Kaipapa came by seven o'clock, according to appointment. The natives of a village on the way to Port Resolution had gathered coral for lime for our new room, and Mr Watt with Kaipapa and the teachers had arranged to go for it to-day. William came home in time for dinner, and the afternoon wa& spent in the prayer meeting. . . . Thursday. Nothing of importance occurred to-day. In the afternoon William went out to fish and causjht some, which we had for tea. In the evening he and the teachers were translating, while I was working at the .sewing machine. Taded, it is true, but Jesus can save unto the uttermost. . . . August 10th. To-day we went to see the place where Mr Mathieson lived. It is on a hill called Inioa. We intended to have got our house built there, but the natives thought we should be better where we are. I would have liked the view, but I have no doubt that Avhen it is blowing a hurricane we will be glad we are scarcely so high up. The ruins of the old house are still standing, or rather lying ; for after eight years in a climate where hurricanes are common, it is no wonder that it is level with the ground. I saw many pieces of broken dishes, and could trace the garden walks, while I plucked lemons from trees which the Mathiesons had planted. This place tells a sad tale. Many nights of sickness and weariness were here spent ; many tears shed and earnest prayers offered, which shall not be unanswered, although the answer is as yet withheld. The name of Mathieson is almost forgotten. Many have died during those eight years, and those upon whom their highest hopes were set have as yet manifested no desire for instruction. I feel sad when 1 think how long they laboured, and yet so little sign ■of permanent success. Perhaps we may have to do the same. . . . We searched in vain for the grave of their infant daughter, whom they were called to lay in the •dust a fortnight before they left the island. They buried her near their house and put a fence round the grave, but already it is unknown. Poor little thing ! she ihad but a short look on this world ; two months, and then fell asleep I Here she lies : her mother lies on Aneityum and her father on Mare, one of the Loyalty 92 AdXES C. /'. n'ATJ\ islands. " Tht-ir graves are severed far and wide," althonyh tlu're was but six mouths between tlu- deiitli of the first and the hist of the three ! . . . The people are pleasant to us, yet we get much to try both strength and patience. To-day sitme twenty natives came to " asipau " the house. As they were from a distance, and most expert thieves, I told them thev would get in bv and bv, while I hurried and ^ot all loose articles out of the way. This was about eight in the morning, and from that till four in the afternoon the place was in a constant buzz. I had to go out and in looking after my baking ; taking care that some one was left to watch, although the Aneitvumese have no power over them. While I was at the cook-house one of the chiefs opened the table drawer and was " asipau ing " all in it. whicli. with .some, means practically to look what they can get to steal. The teacher had told him to desist, but he heard her not. However, when I came in 1 ti^M him that he was not to do that, at the same time shutting the drawer, so he immediately stopped. I often wonder how stunly warriors feel when I clear twentv or thirtv of them out of the house with a word — or a smile — seeing a woman here is a mere nothing ; but it is evident that " Mi.s.^i bran " is more than a Tanna woman. ... 1 daresay you may often be uneasy about things which nevei move us in the least. On Saturday last a native wa.s- walking oft' with our American saw, which, of course, was quite out of the question. Wo at onco told him he could not have it. He said it was to cut wood, and that he would return it ; but we knew that if he got it outside of the fence we mjo-ht bid adieu to it. The; /i/y;j\xL\(.' woiiK ox tanna. 93 commjiiid was given to imt it down, which he 2 AOXES C. r. WATT. of their evil deeds : for, saici they. " You bring Aneityumese who tell us to give up this and that evil practice, and here are their brethren doing worse." Last night two of oiu- Aneitvumese teachers and iinother man came and pled with us to get our boat to go to Aneityuni and bring the woman back ; else the village to which she belonged woidd shoot one of them in revenge. We felt much to give our sanction to sending our boat over forty miles on the open sea ; but what could we do ? This morning all preparations were made, and after a good deal of ado (seeing we wanted 110 Tanuese to go in the boat, and having turned out three), she started. It happened to be low tide, and as the boat went through the break in the reef, a man ran out and jumped in. In an instant, shouting and wailing by fifty natives began, saying, " Don't take Kasien awav 1 let him out ! let him out ! ' We waved and called to our teachers, and they put liini on the reef again. No sooner was he landed than the cry was raised by another party, " You have not let him go. his heart is sore for Kapuka: if he went it would mend his heart, but now he has been stopped lit- will just .shoot himself ' I saw there was evidently going to be a quarrel by some if he went, and by others if he did not. The boat was on her way, there was not a moment to be lost. I rushed on to the reef and ran on to the edge where Mr Watt was standing, and told him that they must come back. He gave orders that the boat was to be put in the house, feeling that it was better to be in one quarrel than trying to remedy one leading to two or three. It was a .sad affair. One party saying, " You have spoiled his heart ])y not letting him go ": and the BEdlXSlXd WOHK ox TJXXA. in:? other, "He lias spoiled our sailing." We felt (|uite puzzled what to do ; lives had been threatened through the stealing of the woman, and now matters were no better. All day long reports were coming in from every quarter. The one side saying, " It was Aneityumese who stole the w^oman, and if you don't bring her back we will kill an Aneityumese for her." Others sent to say, " Do not bring her, if you do we will kill one of that village which is requesting you to go." While a third party said, " If you bring her back, we will kill her, and give her as food to the sharks, so you had better go." Nevertheless, in the evening four of our teachers and a Tannaman came and pled for the boat. Was it not baffling? However, we could not give it, for go or stay the threat was, that life Avas to be taken. We concluded we were better to stay altogether, as if they did fight, the teachers had the boat as a w^ay of escape. We told them that rather than give the boat and leave ourselves helpless we would abandon the station. No more was said that night, and we retired to rest. About nine p.m. flashes of lightning- were seen, and at last a severe thunderstorm came on. Thus, amid the turmoil of savages and the raging of the elements, we saw the last hours of the old year pass away, and the New Year begin its course, . . . With much love to you all, I remain, Your daughter and sister, AONKS. IV. MAN TANNA.* Febniaiy, 1ST<>. I must tell you something about tlio people of Tanna in this letter. As to population. When J)i- Tuinui lived here he considered it could not be less than twelve thousand, but if you consider the numbers that have been taken to other lands to labour, and those caiiied off by foreign epidemics, such as measles, you will find their numbers much less. The district we live in may be said to be deserted. Eight years ago the Rev. J. W. ^lathiesou was suiTounded l)y a numerous population. As the natives express it, "they were as thick as the stones on the beach." Now, for miles around, we have not one large village. There is great dissimilarity in the colour of their skins — some are black, others copper like, and some Avhiter still. Their features, as a rule, are pleasing, and, were it not for the paint, the}^ would compare favourably with other and higher races. They paint in red, yellow, blue, and black. Red is the *i"(ir tlic sake r)f ?:, I lia\'<" cdHciIimI iiii(k'i' this lit-adiiiy' most of the references to the Tannese and their customs, found in the eiulier letters. The body of the chapter is Mis Watts jdiii nal letter for ISTn. J/.LV y.l.VA'.I. ln;7 favourite colour, while black is the sign of mourning. Some show great taste, and paint designs on the brow or cheeks, while others lay it on as a plaster ; some, again, make their skins glisten as if done with black lead. One generally paints another, which they do by oiling the skin and daubing the dry paint on with the thumb. They seem very fond of it. The}' think they do honour to the worship on Sabbaths by putting on an extra coat. They pierce the lobe of the ear and hang in seven or eight large tortoiseshell rings, from half an inch to an inch wide, and three or four inches in circumference. Nor are they satisfied with that, for they often link one into the other, until the weight is so great that it enlarges the aperture and often breaks it through. Tortoise, or rather turtle, shell is greatly valued by them, and was worn by chiefs and their wives onl}^ until traders came and brought it within the reach of common people. They will give a large pig for a small piece. Male and female, old and young alike, wear those earrings. They also pierce the septum of the nose ; yet I have rarely seen any who wore nose ornaments. A few insert a small piece of wood or a leaf They sa}' that should any one die not having his nose pierced, his spirit will not rest, but liy about in mid-air. They do not tattoo ; but cut or burn some design on the arm or upper part of the body. They do up their hair in a very peculiar way. While it is yet short they divide it into a great many locks, and round each twine the bark of a tree, leaving two inches at the end. As it grows, they follow up the dressing till it hangs down the back ; so that one would think they wore wigs of small cords with curls at the tips. The 1(>C, A(;\£S c. r. II'.J TT. labour they spend on tliese is incredible. Kor days and days a man will sit. while another twists his hair. After it is ilone it is draw n back and tied with a strip of red calico. For this there is great demand, especially in thi' dancinjjf season. 'I'he women wear tht-ir hair short, and pay little or no attention to it. As to ornaments, there is no end to them. The men wear a number of lar£:e white shells round the arm. from which the}' suspend bunches of leaves and (jther things. Round the neck they hang whales' teeth and pieces of greenstone 'the latter they would not part with for anything). They have also bracelets, anklets and garters of netting or any bits of bright cloth. They are fond of little bits of bright wool, which thev stick into their beard.s. The chief passion with the women is for beads, which they wear in great (piantities. They have cords, too, from which they suspend the hair of deceased relatives. Their bracelets and armlets are made of cocoa-nut shells, ^larried women, as a rule, are decently covered with their native skirts of leaves, but I cannot say that of the others. Full grown women will have on a short apron before and behind, half yrown girls a leaf or two, and girls notiiing at all. The clothinu" of the men is so minute that I forbear to describe it. Yet they strut about in their disgusting oostume and criticise the Erromangans as if their own style of dress was of the liighest order. Their houses are the most wretched one can well imagine. Outside they look like hay-stacks. A cocoa-nut leaf laid on the bare ground serves as a bed. :ind a tew native bags and skirts constitute all their household stuff. They have ■onlv a hole which .serves as door and window. A few >, O l"s A'.XES C. r. WATT. of these huts set down in the most irregular way under some trees, with no fence around, is called a village. There the women cook their food or sit and chat ; while the men sit in the Imarom or public scjuare. Each village has such a square, and it is generally under the shade of a large banyan tree. There the men hold their parliaments and discuss Tannese politics, hold feasts and dances, and in the evenings drink their kava. In each square is a kava house. The kava (the root of the Piper Methysticum) is prepared and drunk only Ijy men. Beardless boys are prohibited, and women dare not touch it. It is a most disgusting preparation : being chewed and spat out into a basin, mixed with water, and drank. I have only seen two cases of intoxication through it, although many are "glazy" looking after partaking of it. In the evening the call to kava can be heard as regularly as in some lands the Moslem calls to prayer. Before drinking it, the chief prays to the spirits of the departed for every blessing, such as plenty of kava and other things. They have sacred men, sacred trees, and sacred stones. Among the spirits, one presides over the sea, another over the wind, and a third over the crops. If a man goes a fishing and catches nothing, it is because the god of the fish has been angry. To these gods they ofter the first fruits of all, but at times not the first in (juality. They make this very much to suit themselves. For instance, if only one fruit is ripe they will not eat certain things lest the god be angry ; but as soon as another is in the market they eat all and simdry, thereby saying, " We have got plenty without you, you can be angry if you like." When the wind Mjy TAXXA. 1(111 blows some uue is making it, and so when it rains. But of all superstitions, disease making is the worst. These disease makers are the gods of Tanna. Here no one can be sick from natural causes. Some one is burning his nahak (nahak is any kind of rubbish, such as the skin of food, bits of garments, kc). Should a •disease maker get hold of this and burn it, it is believed that the person to whom it belongs will turn sick, and if burned until it is consumed he will die. Hence, when a person turns sick, enquiry is made, and presents are sent ; and you may be sure some rogue is always ready to accept them. 1 have seen the natives carrying- present after present until the person recovered. Should he die, war is the result. Just before we aiTived here, a great chief died, and the neighbouring- village was charged with burning his " nahak " ; war ensued, and they were driven far inland, their houses burned and their plantations destroyed. Thus every- thing in the shape of rubbish is carefully buried or thrown into the sea. I have seen a man beat a boy, and ask him if he wanted to die, because he attempted to throw away a banana skin. The disease makers themselves are strong in the belief, and if sick, think that some one is burning theirs. The chief spirit is called Ivarapanamun. They believe he lives on the top of the highest hill, Mount Mirran, which can be seen from all parts of the island. He is in figure like a man, has a red skin thickly covered with hair, his nails are like birds' claws, only much longer, and with them he tears off the flesh of those who are so unfortunate as to come within his reach. 110 A(;XES c. r. watt. When they die, they say their bodies moulder iu tht' dust, but their spirits go to another world called Ipai, which simply means "very far ot^. " There they live as on earth, dig and plant, give and are given in marriage. After remaining there for an indefinite timt- they transmii^rate into owls and other animals, and afterwards into sacred stones. As far as I can ascertain, these were their original beliefs, but since missionaries have told them of the " lake that bumeth," they have taken up the idea that their spirits are cast into the volcano. With such beliefs, what use is there in refraining from this or that sin i all go to one place, whatever be their lives. Truly, " darkness covers the earth and gross darkness the people." Chieftainship may be said to consist only in name. In a village of eight or nine men, six will claim to be chiefs. It is an old saying, that " a man's house is his castle,"' but really in Tanna a man's J.higdom is his house and his wives ; although they talk plenty about their " great land " and its great rulers. The men always carry a loaded musket, club or kawas to protect themselves. They are great boasters, and as Q-reat cowards. If a man wishes to shoot another he will lurk in the dark, or act the part of a traitor. llence the constant dread. There is no superior law ; might is right. For four months they are busy with their plantations ; the other eight are spent in idleness and wantonness. The heavy part of the work tails on the women. They are the cooks, and beasts of burden, and should they decline to fulfil the wish of their " lords " they receive a demonstrative proof of atfection in the shape of a MAX TAXAA. Ill beating- with a stick, or have a knife thrown at them. From this there is no redress : for if she runs away it is only to be brought back and get further punishment. During a great part of the year they are busy feasting, sin^insf and dancinu'. Each new season has its new music. In this, you see, they are in no way behind more civilized countries. One of their song-compilers retires into the bush and meets the gods of song, from whom he receives the new dance music for the forth- coming performance. Having acquired it, he returns and teaches it to those of his own village, and so on,. until a great many know it. On the appointed day they have a " great sing." Many pigs are killed, and heaps on heaps of native food consumed. Pieparatory to the " Taaka," as they call it, the men live away from their villages and fast by themselves, so as to be neat and slender. When the day of feasting arrives they all assemble in the public square ; but before anything is done, the song-maker takes a gift of food and retires by himself to a hut, where he presents it to the gods. This done, he returns, and the feasting and dancing- commence. Polygamy is prevalent. I know of no case of five wives ; but some have four, three, or two. One is a rare exception. Such crimes as adultery are only kept down by club law ; nevertheless, they are very frequent. The natives are passionately fond of children, especially boys, and tenderly nurse the sick. When a man dies, he and all liis personal effects, such as earrings, gunpowder, and shot, are buried in one grave. The strangling of widows is practised, but not commonly ; and is said to have been introduced from 11-2 .K.XKS ('. r. ir.17'7'. Aneitvuiii. A woinau whn .loes not inanit'est a strong desiit' til ;uot>iiipany hii- liusbaii the " Daysprixc;," Dillon's Bay. Ekko.manca, 4th July. 1S7<'. Oil May -SOtli, one of Mr Neilson's teacher.s^ brought round our home mail, and, of course, informed us of the safe arrival of our little vessel in Port Resolution. Our hearts were gladdened to receive good news from a far country after such a long silence. We had received no letters for upwards of five months. None can imagine our feeliuos on readini-- letters that bear so early a date save those who are like circum- stanced. I almost dreaded to break the seal lest they should contain news that w^otdd rend my heart. At such times, I almost think 1 would be happier had I no relative or friend ou earth : then I would not tremble to think of what might be happening on the other side of the mighty ocean ; but would be able to pursue my course without a care. How^ever, such thoughts are but for a moment ; and when I read page after page of encouragement, my heart rejoices that I have so many who are interested in our welfare, and who daily remember us to Him who is a God at hand. SETT I. IX( : XE 1 1 ' MISSIOXA I! IKS. 1 1 ; The '■ Diiyspring " was Hvl' weeks on lier voyuoe from Melbourne, having experienced head winds and calms. She brouo-ht back Mr and Mrs Ella of the J.. M.S. ; and Rev. Mr Goodwill and his wife, new missionaries front Nova Scotia. After lying at Aneityum for a week, she proceeded to the Loyalty Islands and landed Mr and Mrs Ella, ran to Fate, thence to Erromanga and Aniwa, and arrivetl at Tanna on the 2-e received us with pleasure, and said he would <4ive any piece of land the missionary liked t