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COOK'S 
 
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 VOYAGES OF DISCOVEKY 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 JOHN BARROW, ESQ, F.R.S, F.S.A. 
 
 EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 
 
 MDCCCLXXI. 
 

Bancroft Library 
 lo 7 o _^ 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 The Editor of this little book is desirous of availing himself of 
 the opportunity of expressing to the Eight Honourable the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty his thanks for the kind and 
 most ready permission granted to him to inspect the documents 
 in office relating to Cook's Voyages, as well as his Correspond- 
 ence, and to make any extracts therefrom which he might think 
 desirable. By this liberality he is enabled to present to the 
 world many interesting letters not hitherto published, and which 
 will be found to be remarkable for their perspicuity. His thanks 
 are also due to Mr. Nelson Houghton, Keeper of the Kecords, for 
 the facilities kindly afforded to him. 
 
 The Editor having had occasion repeatedly to refer to Captain 
 Cook's Log Books, cannot forbear a passing tribute of admiration 
 at the beautiful manner in which they have been kept, in his 
 own handwriting (a. fao-simile of which is annexed), amidst the 
 multifarious duties, anxiety, and toil inseparable upon voyages 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 of discovery in unknown seas,~equalled, perhaps^but not sur- 
 passed—by those of Sir Edward Parry, also in the Eecords of the 
 Admiralty. 
 
 In one of Cook's Log Books is a circular chart of the southern 
 hemisphere (showing the ship's track), upheld by two figures, 
 with the appropriate motto — 
 
 " Ipsa subibo humeris ; nee me labor ipse gravabit." 
 
TO 
 
 CAPTAIN PENNY, 
 
 OF THE 
 MEBOANTILE MABINE, THE CRADLE OF CAPTAIN COOK, 
 
 THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, 
 
 IN 
 
 GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HIS 
 
 ZEALOUS SERVICES IN THE ARCTIC SEAS IN 1850-51, 
 
 WHEN COMMANDINO H.M. BRIGS "LADY PRANKLIN" AND "SOPHLd.," 
 
 EMPLOYED ON THE SEARCH FOR "sir JOHN FRANKLIN," "CROZIER," AND "FITZJAMBS,' 
 
 AND THE LOST CREWS OF H.M. SHIPS " EREBUS " AND ** TERROR ; " 
 
 ANH IN ADMIRATION OF HIM AS ONE OF THE BRAVEST 
 
 AND MOST SKILFUL NAVIGATORS 
 
 I OF THE PRESENT AGE. 
 
 17 Hanover Terrace, Regent's Park, 
 28th June 1860. 
 
 J.B. 
 
¥ 
 

 
 ^^ao^n OL^S^'J'^y^yt/y^cy^ -i^ anrae/r- A 
 

 
 ***♦ ••*♦* 
 
 
Life of Captain Ja7nes Cook, 
 
 Bom 27tli October 1728 ; died 14th February 1779. 
 Aged 51. 
 
 we consider the career of this great navigator, 
 and observe how from the humblest origin he 
 rose, with gradual but certain steps, to become 
 the greatest discoverer of modem times, we are 
 lost in admiration of that character which enabled 
 him to accomplish such great results. 
 
 It is almost difficult for us who live in the 
 present day to realize that to Cook we owe the 
 iscovery of that great colony on the eastern coast of Australia, 
 fimed by him New South Wales, and that it is not much 
 tyond the space of a single human life since he drew the atten- 
 Lon of the world to the great capabilities of that fifth continent, 
 nd the adjacent islands of the South Seas. 
 
 It is remarkable to think also that at that very spot where 
 e landed to enjoy the chase of the kangaroo now rises the great 
 ity of Sydney, with its 53,000 inhabitants. The narrative of 
 very traveller who, at the sacrifice of those comforts which are 
 
 B 
 
2 Life of Captain James Cook, 
 
 held most dear, goes forth to make discoveries for the benefit of 
 his fellow-men, must be interesting, but how much more must 
 this be the case when these discoveries are, as in the case of 
 Cook, sealed by the life of the discoverer himself 
 
 LIFE — (by Captain King, of "ThI: Eesolution "). 
 
 Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in Yorkshire, 
 in the year 1727; and, at an early age, was put apprentice to a 
 shopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His natural inclination 
 not having been consulted on this occasion, he soon quitted the 
 counter from disgust, and bound himseK for nine years to the 
 master of a vessel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the 
 war in 1755, he entered into the King's service on board the 
 Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and after- 
 ward by Sir Hugh Palliser, who soon discovered his merit, ar 
 introduced him on the quarter-deck. In the year 1758 we finu 
 him master of " The IsTorthumberland," the flag-ship of Lord Col- 
 ville, who had then the command of the squadron stationed on 
 the coast of America. It was here, as I have often heard, him 
 say, that, during a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied 
 himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any 
 other assistance than what a few books and his own industry- 
 afforded him. At the same time that he thus found means to 
 cultivate and improve his mind, and to supply the deficiencies of 
 an early education, he was engaged in most of the busy and 
 active scenes of the war in America. At the siege of Quebec, 
 Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of 
 services of the first importance in the naval department. He 
 piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the 
 embarkation to the Heights of Abraham ; examined the passage, 
 
Life of Captain James Cook. 3 
 
 £.nd laid buoys for the security of the large ships in proceeding 
 up the river. The courage and address with which he acquitted 
 Idmself in these services, gained him the warm friendship of Sir 
 (^harlos Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronise 
 him during the rest of their lives with the greatest zeal and 
 affection. At the conclusion of the war he was appointed, 
 through the recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh 
 I*alliser, to survey the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the coasts of 
 Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till the year 
 1 767, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward Hawke, to command 
 an expedition to the South Seas ; for the purpose of observing 
 the transit of Venus, and prosecuting discoveries in that part of 
 'he globe. 
 
 From this period, as his services are too well known to 
 iquire a recital here, so his reputation has proportionably 
 advanced to a height too great to be affected by my panegyric. 
 Indeed, he appears to have been most eminently and peculiarly 
 qualified for this species of enterprise. The earliest habits of 
 Lis life, the course of his services, and the constant application 
 of his mind, all conspired to fit him for it, and gave him a 
 degree of professional knowledge which can fall to the lot of 
 very few. The constitution of his body was robust, inured to 
 labour, and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His 
 stomach bore, without dijB&culty, the coarsest and most ungrate- 
 ful food. Ludeed, temperance in him was scarcely a virtue ; so 
 great was the indifference with which he submitted to every 
 kind of self-deniaL The qualities of his mind were of the same 
 hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His understanding 
 v/as strong and perspicacious ; his judgment, in whatever related 
 t-D the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs 
 
4 Life of Captain fames Cook. 
 
 were bold and manly ; and both in tlie conception, and in the 
 mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. 
 His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an 
 admirable presence of mind in the moment of danger. His 
 manners were plain and unaffected. His temper might perhaps i 
 have been justly blamed as subject to hastiness and passion, had ' 
 not these been disarmed by a disposition the most benevolent 
 and humane. 
 
 Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character ; but its 
 most distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance 
 in the pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the 
 opposition of dangers and the pressure of hardships, but even 
 exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. During the long . 
 and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, his eagerness and i 
 activity were never in the least abated. No incidental tempta- \ 
 tion could detain him for a moment ; even those intervals of | 
 recreation, which sometimes unavoidably occurred, and were 
 looked for by us with a longing, that persons who have expe- 
 rienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, were sub- 
 mitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they 
 could not be employed in making further provision for the more 
 effectual prosecution of his designs. 
 
 It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in which 
 these qualities were displayed, during the great and important 
 enterprises in which he was engaged. I shall content myself 
 with stating the result of those services, under the two principal 
 heads to which they may be referred, those of geography and 
 navigation, placing each in a separate and distinct point of view. 
 Perhaps no science ever received greater additions from the 
 labour of a single man than geography has done from those of 
 
Life of Captain y antes Cook. 5 
 
 Captain Cook. In liis first voyage to the South Seas, he dis- 
 covered the Society Islands ; determined the insularity of New 
 Zealand ; discovered the straits which separate the two islands, 
 and are called after his name ; and made a complete survey of 
 both. He afterward explored the eastern coast of New Holland, 
 hitherto unknown ; an extent of twenty-seven degrees of latitude, 
 or upwards of two thousand miles. In his second expedition he 
 resolved the great problem of a southern continent ; having 
 traversed that hemisphere between the latitudes of 40° and 70°, 
 in such a manner as not to leave a possibility of its existence, 
 imless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During 
 this voyage he discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in 
 the Southern Pacific except New Zealand ; the island of Georgia ; 
 and an unknown coast which he named Sandwich Land, the 
 Thule of the southern hemisphere ; and having twice visited the 
 tropical seas, he settled the situations of the old, and made 
 several new discoveries. 
 
 But the third voyage which he made is distinguished above 
 aU the rest by the extent and importance of its discoveries. 
 Besides several smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, he dis- 
 covered, to the north of the equinoctial line, the group called the 
 Sandwich Islands ; which, from their situation and productions, 
 bid fairer for becoming an object of consequence, in the system 
 of European navigation, than any other discovery in the South 
 Sea. He afterward explored what had hitherto remained un- 
 known of the western coast of America, from the latitude of 43° 
 to 70° north, containing an extent of three thousand five hundred 
 miles ; ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of 
 Asia and America ; passed the straits between them, and sur- 
 veyed the coast, on each side, to such a height of northern lati- 
 
6 Life of Captain fames Cook. 
 
 tilde as to demonstrate the impracticability of a passage in that 
 hemisphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, either by 
 an eastern or a western course. In short, if we except the Sea 
 of Amur, and the Japanese Archipelago, he completed the 
 hydrography of the habitable globe. 
 
 As a navigator, his services were not perhaps less splendid ; 
 certainly not less important and meritorious. The method which 
 he discovered, and so successfully pursued, of preserving the 
 health of seamen, forms a new era in navigation, and will trans- 
 mit his name to future ages amongst the friends and benefactors 
 of mankind. Those who are conversant in naval history need 
 not be told at how dear a rate the advantages which have been 
 sought through the medium of long voyages at sea have always 
 been purchased. That dreadful disorder which is peculiar to 
 this service, and whose ravages have marked the tracks of dis- 
 coverers with circumstances almost too shocking to relate, must, 
 without exercising an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of 
 our seamen, have proved an insuperable obstacle to the prosecu- 
 tion of such enterprises. It was reserved for Captain Cook to 
 shew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be pro- 
 tracted to the unusual length of three or even four years, in 
 unknown regions, and under every change and rigour of climate, 
 not only without affecting the health, but even without diminish- 
 ing the probability of life in the smallest degree. The method 
 he pursued has been fully explained by himself in a paper which 
 was read before the Eoyal Society, in the year 1776, on which 
 occasion Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him. 
 
 With respect to his professional abilities, I shall leave them 
 to the judgment of those who are best acquainted with the 
 nature of the services in which he was engaged. They will 
 
Life of Captain y antes Cook. 7 
 
 readily acknowledge, that to have conducted three expeditions 
 of so much danger and difficulty, of so unusual a length, and in 
 such a variety of situation, with uniform and invariable success, 
 must have required not only a thorough and accurate knowledge 
 of his business, but a powerful and comprehensive genius, fruitful 
 in resources, and equally ready in the application of whatever 
 the higher and inferior calls of the service required. 
 
 Having given the most faithful account I have been able to 
 collect, both from my own observation, and the relations of 
 others, of the death of my ever-honoured friend, and also of his 
 character and services, I shall now leave his memory to the 
 gratitude and admiration of posterity; accepting, with a melan- 
 choly satisfaction, the honour, which the loss of him hath procured 
 me, of seeing my name joined with his ; and of testifying that 
 affection and respect for his memory, which, whilst he lived, it 
 was no less my inclination, than my constant study to shew 
 him. James King, 
 
 (Captain H. M. Sloop Eesolution.) 
 
8 Life of Captain y antes Cook. 
 
 THE complement of " The Endeavour," in which Cook made 
 his first voyage, consisted of eighty-four persons. She was 
 victualled for eighteen months, and carried ten carriage and 
 twelve swivel guns, with abundance of ammunition : and all 
 manner of stores were taken on board. The following were the 
 principal ofi&cers : — 
 
 " Endeavour," Barque * 
 
 James Cook, appoiQted lieutenant-Commander, 25th May 1768. 
 
 Zachary Hicks, lieutenant. 
 
 John Gore. 
 
 Eobert MoUneux, master, died 15th April 1771 ; succeeded by 
 Eichard PickersgiU. 
 
 Charles Clerke, mate. 
 
 John Gathray, boatswain, died 4th February 1771 ; succeeded by 
 Samuel Evans. 
 
 Stephen Forward, gunner. 
 
 John Satterley, carpenter, died 12th February 1771 ; succeeded by 
 George Nowell. 
 
 Wilham B. Munkhouse, surgeon, died 5th November 1770 ; suc- 
 ceeded by WiUiam Perry. 
 
 Eichard Orton, clerk. 
 
 They were accompanied by Mr. Charles Green, the coadjutor 
 of Dr. Bradley, the astronomer royal, who was nominated to 
 assist in conducting the astronomical part of the undertaking ; 
 and by Joseph, afterwards Sir Joseph, Banks, the President of 
 the Eoyal Society, a friend of science who possessed, at an early 
 period of life, an opulent fortune, and being zealous* to apply it 
 
 * Records, Admiralty, Wliiteliall. 
 
Life of Captain James Cook. 9 
 
 to the best ends, embarked on this tedious and hazardous enter- 
 prise, animated by the wish of improving himself, and enlarging 
 the bounds of knowledge. He took two draughtsmen with him, 
 and had likewise a secretary and four servants in his retinue. 
 
 Dr. Solander, an ingenious and learned Swede, who had been 
 appointed one of the librarians in the British Museum, and who 
 was particularly skilled as a disciple of Linnaeus, and distinguished 
 in his knowledge of natural history, likewise joined the expedi- 
 tion. Possessed of the enthusiasm with which Linnaeus inspired 
 his disciples, he braved danger in the prosecution of his favourite 
 studies, and being a man of erudition and capacity, he added no 
 small eclat to the voyage in which he had embarked. 
 
 Though the principal intention of this expedition was to 
 observe the transit of Venus, it was thought proper to make it 
 comprehend other objects as well. Captain Cook was therefore 
 directed, after he had accomplished his main business, to proceed 
 in making further discoveries in the South Seas, which now began 
 to be explored with uncommon resolution. 
 
First Voyage of Discovery Round the 
 
 World 
 
 IN H. M. BARQUE "ENDEAVOUE," 370 TONS, COMPLEMENT 84. 
 Years 1766, 1769, 1770, and 1771. 
 
 CHAPTEK I. 
 
 Passage to Tahiti and the Society Islands. 
 
 Having received my commission, wMcli was dated the 25th of 
 May 1768, 1 went on board on the 27th, hoisted the pennant, and 
 took charge of the ship, which then lay in the basin in Deptford 
 
[2 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 Yard. She was fitted for sea with all expedition ; and stores 
 and provisions being taken on board, sailed down the river on 
 the 30th of July, and on the 18th of August anchored in Ply- 
 mouth Sound. 
 
 "While we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war 
 and the Act of Parliament were read to the ship's company, who 
 were paid two months' wages in advance, and told that they were 
 to expect no additional pay for the performance of the voyage. 
 
 On Friday, the 26th of August, the wind becoming fair, we 
 got under sail, and put to sea. On the 31st, we saw several of 
 the birds which the sailors call Mother Carey's Chickens, and 
 which they suppose to be the forerunners of a storm ; and on 
 the next day we had a very hard gale, which brought us under 
 our courses, washed overboard a small boat belonging to the 
 boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our poultry, which 
 we regretted still more. 
 
 On Friday, the 2d of September, we saw land between Cape 
 Knisterre and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia, in Spain ; 
 and on the 5th, by an observation of the sun and moon, we found 
 the latitude of Cape Pinisterre to be 42° 53' north, and its longi- 
 tude 8° 46' west, our first meridian being always supposed to pass 
 through Greenwich ; variation of the needle 21° 4' west. 
 
 Madeira. 
 
 On the 12th, we discovered the islands of Porto Santo and 
 Madeira, and on the next day anchored in Punchal road, and 
 moored with the stream anchor ; but, in the night, the bend of 
 the hawser of the stream-anchor slipped, owing to the negligence 
 of the person who had been employed to make it fast. In the 
 morning the anchor was heaved up into the boat, and carried out 
 
First Voyage. 13 
 
 to the southward ; but in heaving it again, Mr. Weir, the master's 
 mate, was carried overboard by the buoy-rope, and went to the 
 bottom with the anchor ; the people in the ship saw the accident, 
 and got the anchor up with all possible expedition ; it was, how- 
 ever, too late ; the body came up entangled in the buoy-rope, but 
 it was dead. 
 
 When the island of Madeira is first approached from the sea, 
 it has a very beautiful appearance, the sides of the hiUs being 
 entirely covered with vines almost as high as the eye can dis- 
 tinguish ; and the vines are green when every kind of herbage, 
 except where they shade the ground, and here and there by the 
 sides of a rill, is entirely burnt up, which was the case at this 
 time. 
 
 The only article of trade in this island is wine ; and the 
 manner in which it is made is so simple, that it might have been 
 used by Noah, who is said to have planted the first vineyard 
 after the flood. The grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, 
 the dimensions of which are proportioned to the size of the 
 vineyard to which it belongs ; the servants then, having taken 
 off their stockings and jackets, get into it, and with their feet and 
 elbows press out as much of the juice as they can : the stalks are 
 afterwards collected, and being tied together with a rope, are put 
 under a square piece of wood, which is pressed down upon them 
 by a lever with a stone tied to the end of it. The inhabitants 
 have made so little improvement in knowledge or art, that they 
 have but very lately brought all the fruit of a vineyard to be of 
 one sort, by engrafting their vines : there seems to be in mind, 
 as there is in matter, a kind of ms inertice, which resists the first 
 impulse to change. He who proposes to assist the artificer or 
 the husbandman by a new application of the principles of philo- 
 
14 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 sophy, or the powers of mechanism, will find, that his having 
 hitherto done without them will be a stronger motive for con- 
 tinuing to do without them still than any advantage, however 
 manifest and considerable, for adopting the improvement. 
 Wherever there is ignorance there is prejudice ; and the common 
 people of all nations are, with respect to improvements, like the 
 parish poor of England with respect to a maintenance, for whom 
 the law must not only make a provision, but compel them to 
 accept it, or else they will be still found begging in the streets. 
 It was, therefore, with great dif&culty that the people of Maderia 
 were persuaded to engraft their vines ; and some of them still 
 obstinately refuse to adopt the practice, though a whole vintage 
 is very often spoiled by the number of bad grapes which are 
 mixed in the vat. 
 
 The town of Funchal derives its name from Funcho, the 
 Portuguese name for fennel, which grows in great plenty upon 
 the neighbouring rocks. It is situated in the bottom of a bay, 
 and though the houses of the principal inhabitants are large, 
 those of the common people are small ; the streets narrow, and 
 worse paved than any I ever saw. The churches are loaded 
 with ornaments, among which are many pictures, and images of 
 favourite saints ; but the pictures are in general wretchedly 
 painted, and the saints are dressed in laced clothes. Some of the 
 convents are in a better taste, especially that of the Franciscans, 
 which is plain, simple, and neat in the highest degree. 
 
 We visited the good fathers of this convent on a Thursday 
 evening, just before supper-time, and they received us with great 
 politeness : " We will not ask you," said they, " to sup with us, 
 because we are not prepared ; but if you will come to-morrow, 
 though it is a fast with us, we will have a turkey roasted for 
 
First Voyage. 15 
 
 you." This invitation, which shewed a liberality of sentiment 
 not to have been expected in a convent of Portuguese friars at 
 this place, gratified us much, though it was not in our power to 
 accept it. 
 
 We visited also a convent of nuns, dedicated to Banta Clara, 
 and the ladies did us the honour to express a particular pleasure 
 in seeing us there : they had heard that there were great philo- 
 sophers among us, and not at all knowing what were the objects 
 of philosophical knowledge, they asked us several questions that 
 were absurd and extravagant in the highest degree. One was, 
 when it would thunder ; and another, whether a spring of fresh 
 water was to be found anywhere within the walls of their con- 
 vent, of which it seems they were in great want. It will 
 naturally be supposed that our answers to such questions were 
 neither satisfactory to the ladies, nor, in their estimation, honour- 
 able to us ; yet their disappointment did not in the least lessen 
 their civility, and they talked, without ceasing, during the whole 
 of our visit, which lasted about half an hour. 
 
 On Friday the 23d we saw the Peak of Tenerifife, determined 
 by Dr. Heberden to be 15,396, feet, which is but 148 yards less 
 than three miles, reckoning the mile at 1760 yards.* Its ap- 
 pearance at sunset was very striking ; when the sun was below 
 the horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deep black, 
 the mountain still reflected his rays, and glowed with a warmth 
 of colour which no painting can express. 
 
 As several articles of our stock and provisions began to fall 
 short, I determined to put into Pdo de Janeiro, rather than at any 
 port in Brazil or Falkland's Islands, knowing that it could better 
 
 * The correct height, as now determined by Professor Charles Piazzi Smyth of 
 Edinburgh, in his interesting work on Teneriffe, is 12,200 feet. — Ed. 
 
1 6 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 supply us with what we wanted, and making no doubt but that 
 we should be well received * 
 
 We stood off and on along the shore till the 12th of Novem- 
 ber, and at nine the next morniag made sail for the harbour of 
 Eio de Janeiro. 
 
 Eio de Janeiro, or the river of Januarius, was probably so 
 called from its having been discovered on the feast-day of that 
 saint ; and the town, which is the capital of the Portuguese 
 dominions in America, derives its name from the river, which, 
 indeed, is rather an arm of the sea, for it did not appear to receive 
 any considerable stream of fresh water : it stands on a plain, 
 close to the shore, on the west side of the bay, at the foot of 
 several high mountains which rise behind it. It is neither ill 
 designed nor ill built : the houses, in general, are of stone, and 
 two stories high, every house having, after the manner of the 
 Portuguese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of 
 wood before the balcony. I computed its circuit to be about 
 three miles ; for it appears to be equal in size to the largest 
 country towns in England, Bristol and Liverpool not excepted : 
 the streets are straight, and of a convenient breadth, intersecting 
 each other at right angles ; the greater part, however, lie in a 
 line with the citadel called St. Sebastian, which stands on the top 
 of a hill that commands the town. 
 
 While we lay here, one of the churches was rebuilding ; and 
 to defray the expense, the parish to which it belonged had leave 
 to beg in procession through the whole city once a week, by 
 which very considerable sums were collected. At this ceremony, 
 which was performed by night, all the boys of a certain age were 
 
 * In this lie was greatly disappointed, as he received shocking usage from the 
 Viceroy. — Ed. 
 
First Voyage, 17 
 
 obliged to assist, the sons of gentlemen not being excused. Each 
 of these boys was dressed in a black cassock, with a short red 
 cloak hanging about as low as the waist, and carried in his hand 
 a pole about six or seven feet long, at the end of which was tied 
 a lantern : the number of lanterns was generally above two 
 hundred, and the light they gave was so great, that the people 
 who saw it from the cabin windows thought the town had been 
 on fire. 
 
 The inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions at the 
 shrine of any saint in the calendar, without waiting till there is 
 a procession ; for before almost every house there is a little 
 cupboard, furnished with a glass window, in which one of these 
 tutelary powers is waiting to be gracious. 
 
 The humility and submission of the inhabitants to the 
 military is such, that I was told that if any of them should 
 neglect to take off his hat upon meeting an officer, he would 
 immediately be knocked down. This haughty severity renders 
 the people extremely civil to any stranger who has the appear- 
 ance of a gentleman. But the subordination of the officers 
 themselves to the viceroy is enforced with circumstances equally 
 mortifying, for they are obliged to attend in his hall three times 
 every day to ask his commands ; the answer constantly is, 
 "There is nothing new." I have been told that this servile 
 attendance is exacted to prevent their going into the country ; 
 and if so, it effectually answers the purpose. 
 
 The country, at a small distance round the town, which is 
 all that any of us saw, is beautiful in the highest degree ; the 
 wildest spots being varied with a greater luxuriance of flowers, 
 both as to number and beauty, than the best gardens in England. 
 
 Upon the trees and bushes sat an almost endlesp variety of 
 
1 8 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 bii-ds, especially small ones, many of them covered with the most 
 elegant plumage, among which were the humming-bird. Of insects, 
 too, there was a great variety, and some of them very beautiful. 
 
 The riches of the place consist chiefly in the gold mines, 
 which we supposed to lie far up the country, though we could 
 never learn where, or at what distance. The jewels found are 
 diamonds, topazes of several kinds, and amethysts. 
 
 Though the climate is hot, the situation is certainly whole- 
 some ; while we stayed here the thermometer never rose higher 
 than 83 degrees. We had frequent rains, and once a very hard 
 gale of wind. So that, upon the whole, Eio de Janeiro is a very 
 good place for ships to put in at that want refreshment. 
 
 We did not get imder sail till the 7th of December, when we 
 stood out to sea. 
 
 Eio Janeiro to Terra del Fuego. 
 
 Nothing remarkable happened till the 11th of January, when, 
 having passed Falkland's islands, we discovered the coast of 
 Terra del Fuego. 
 
 Having continued to range the coast, on the 14th we entered 
 the straight of Le Maire ; but the tide turning against us drove 
 us out with great violence, and raised such a sea that the waves 
 had exactly the same appearance as they would have had if they 
 had broke over a ledge of rocks ; and when the ship was in this 
 torrent she frequently pitched so that the bowsprit was under 
 water. It will probably be thought strange that where weeds, 
 which grow at the bottom of the sea, appear above the surface, 
 there should be a great depth of water ; but the weeds which 
 grow upon rocky ground in these countries, and which always 
 distinguish it from sand and oose, are of an enormous size. The 
 
First Voyage. 19 
 
 leaves are four feet long, and some of the stalks, though not 
 thicker than a man's thumb, above one hundred and twenty 
 Banks and Solander examined some of them, over which we 
 sounded and had fourteen fathom, which is eighty-four feet ; 
 and, as they made a very acute angle with the bottom, they were 
 thought to be at least one half longer. Upon the report of the 
 master I stood in with the ship, but not trusting implicitly to 
 his intelligence I continued to sound, and found but four fathom 
 upon the first ledge that I went over ; concluding, therefore, that 
 I could not anchor here without risk, I determined to seek some 
 port in the strait, where I might get on board such wood and 
 water as we wanted. 
 
 This I found at two o'clock on the 15th, when we anchored 
 in the bay of Good Success, and after dinner I went on shore, 
 accompanied by Banks and Solander, to look for a watering-place, 
 and speak to the Indians, several of whom had come in sight. 
 We landed on the starboard side of the bay near some rocks, 
 which made smooth water and good landing ; thirty or forty of 
 them soon made their appearance, and three of them accompanied 
 us back to the ship. When they came on board, one of them, 
 whom we took to be a priest, performed much the same cere- 
 monies which M. Bougainville describes, and supposes to be an 
 exorcism. When he was introduced into a new part of the ship, 
 or when any thing that he had not seen before caught his atten- 
 tion, he shouted with all his force for some minutes, without 
 directing his voice either to us or his companions. They ate 
 some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much 
 pleasure, though such part of what was given them as they did 
 not eat they took away with them ; but they would not swallow 
 a drop either of wine or spirits ; they put the glass to their lips, 
 
20 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 but, having tasted the liquor, they returned it, with strong ex- 
 pressions of disgust. 
 
 Curiosity seems to be one of the few passions which distin- 
 guish men from brutes ; and of this our guests appeared to have 
 very little. They went from one part of the ship to another, 
 and looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment 
 presented themselves, without any expression either of wonder or 
 pleasure ; for the vociferation of our exorcist seemed to be neither. 
 
 Terrible Effect of Extreme Cold when joined with 
 Fatigue. 
 
 On the 16th, early in the morning, Banks and Solander, with 
 their attendants, servants, and two seamen, accompanied by 
 Monkhouse the surgeon and Green the astronomer, set out from 
 the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as they could into the 
 country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a dis- 
 tance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above 
 them a bare rock. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and 
 made no doubt that, beyond it, he should find, in a country 
 which no botanist had ever yet visited, alpine plants which 
 would abundantly compensate his labour. They entered the 
 wood at a small sandy beach, a little to the westward of the 
 watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the 
 pathless wilderness, till three o'clock. Soon after they reached 
 what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their great disappoint- 
 ment, found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, about 
 three feet high, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn that 
 they could not be bent out of the way ; it was therefore neces- 
 sary to lift the leg over them, which at every step was buried, 
 ankle deep, in the soil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of 
 
First Voyage. 21 
 
 such travelling, the weather, which had hitherto been very fine 
 (much like one of our bright days in May), became gloomy and 
 cold, with sudden blasts of a most piercing wind, accompanied 
 with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, 
 hoping the worst of the way was past, and that the bare rock 
 which they had seen from the tops of the lower hills was not 
 more than a mile before them ; but when they had got about 
 two-thirds over this woody swamp, Buchan, one of Banks's 
 draughtsmen, was unhappily seized with a fit. This made it 
 necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was impos- 
 sible that he should go any further, a fire was kindled, and those 
 who were most fatigued were left behind to take care of him, 
 whilst Banks, Solander, and the others, went on to botanize at 
 the summit. 
 
 The cold was now become more severe, and the snow-blasts 
 more frequent ; the day also was so far spent, that it was found 
 impossible to get back to the ship before the next morning ; but 
 to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a climate, was 
 not only comfortless, but dreadful. 
 
 By an arrangement the whole company assembled at an 
 appointed rendezvous, and, though pinched with cold, were in 
 health and spirits, Buchan himself having recovered his 
 strength in a much greater degree than could have been 
 expected. It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, but 
 still good daylight, and they set forward for the nearest valley, 
 Banks himseK undertaking to bring up the rear, and see 
 that no straggler was left behind, a caution afterwards found 
 to be by no means superfluous. Solander, who had more than 
 once crossed the mountains which divide Sweden from Norway, 
 weU knew that extreme cold, especially when joined with fatigue. 
 
2 2 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almost irresistible, 
 conjured the company to keep moving, whatever pain it might 
 cost them, and whatever relief they might be promised by an 
 inclination to rest, enforcing his warning by these words : — 
 
 " Whoever sits down will Sleep ; and whoever Sleeps 
 WILL Wake no more." 
 
 Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, they set forward ; but 
 while they were still upon the naked rock, and before they had 
 got among the bushes, the cold became suddenly so intense, as 
 to produce the effects that had been most dreaded. Solander 
 himself was the first to succumb to its influence, finding the 
 inclination, against which he had warned others, irresistible ; 
 and he insisted upon being suffered to lie down. Banks en- 
 treated and remonstrated in vain : down he lay upon the ground, 
 though it was covered with snow ; and it was with great difii- 
 culty that his friend kept him from sleeping. One of the black 
 servants also began to linger, having suffered from the cold in 
 the same manner, and when he was told that if he did not go on 
 he would in a short time be frozen to death, he answered, that 
 he desired nothing but to lie down and die : the doctor did not 
 so explicitly renounce his life ; he said he was willing to go on, 
 but that he must first take some sleep, though he had before 
 told the company " that to sleep was to perish." There being no 
 remedy, they were both suffered to sit down, and in a few 
 minutes they fell into a profound sleep ; soon after, some of those 
 people who had been sent forward returned with the welcome 
 news that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther 
 on the way. Banks then endeavoured to wake Solander, and 
 happily succeeded ; but, though he had not slept five minutes. 
 
First Voyage. 23 
 
 he had almost lost the use of his limbs, and the muscles were so 
 shrunk that his shoes fell from his feet. As no attempts to 
 relieve the poor black servant were successful, he was necessarily- 
 left to his fate, with another black servant and a seaman to look 
 after him. Another fall of snow now came on, and continued 
 incessantly for two hours, so that all hope of seeing those left be- 
 hind again alive was given up ; but about twelve o'clock, to the 
 great joy of those at the fire, a shouting was heard at some distance, 
 which proceeded from the seaman and the other two, who had 
 just strength enough left to stagger along, and call out for assist- 
 ance. The black servant was upon his legs, but not able to put 
 one before the other ; his companion was lying upon the ground, 
 insensible as a stone. All hands were now called from the fire, 
 and an attempt was made to carry them to it ; but this, notwith- 
 standing the united efforts of the whole company, was found to 
 be impossible. They were, therefore, reduced to the sad neces- 
 sity of again leaving the unhappy wretches to their fate, having 
 first made them a bed of boughs from the trees, and spread a 
 covering of the same kind over them to a considerable height. 
 
 When the morning dawned, they saw nothing round them, 
 as far as the eye could reach, but snow, which seemed to lie as 
 thick upon the trees as upon the ground ; and the blasts returned 
 so frequently, and with such violence, that they found it impos- 
 sible for them to set out ; how long this might last they knew 
 not» and they had but too much reason to apprehend that it 
 would confine them in that desolate forest till they perished with 
 hunger and cold. After having suffered the misery and terror of 
 this situation till six o'clock in the morning, they conceived some 
 hope of deliverance by discovering the place of the sun through 
 the clouds, which were become thinner, and began to break away. 
 
24 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 Their first care was to see whether the poor wretches whom they 
 had been obliged to leave among the bushes were yet alive ; three 
 of the company were dispatched for that purpose, and very soon 
 afterwards returned with the melancholy news that they were 
 dead* 
 
 Those who were left alive were now pressed by the calls of 
 hunger, to which, after long fasting, every consideration of future 
 good or evil immediately gives way. Before they set forward, 
 therefore, it was unanimously agreed that they should eat a vul- 
 ture which they happened to shoot ; the bird was accordingly 
 skinned, and it being . thought best to divide it before it was 
 fit to be eaten, it was cut into ten portions, and every man 
 cooked his own as he thought fit. After this repast, which 
 furnished each of them with about three mouthfuls, they pre- 
 pared to set out ; but it was ten o'clock before the snow was 
 suflficiently gone off to render a march practicable. After a walk 
 of about three hours, they were very agreeably surprised to find 
 themselves upon the beach, and much nearer to the ship than 
 they had any reason to expectf When they came on board, 
 they congratulated each other upon their safety with a joy 
 that no man can feel who has not been exposed to equal 
 
 * Could the two poor fellows of Franklin's ships, found by M'Clintock's ex- 
 pedition under a quantity of clothing in the boat on King William's Island, have 
 been left there (with their guns loaded and cocked), under somewhat similar cir- 
 cumstances ? — by no means improbable. 
 
 + On more than one occasion, parties employed on the recent expeditions in 
 search of Franklin, in the Arctic Seas, have been placed in a similar position, but 
 happily no life was ever lost. Sir R. M'Clure was himself in great peril, when he 
 ascertained the junction of the Pacific Ocean with the Atlantic, through the waters 
 of Barrow Straits. It was on a sledge journey when ** every now and then one of 
 their party would experience a severe fall into some deep cleft, or over some huge 
 hummock, and then, thoroughly jaded, they would sit down and feel inclined to 
 
First Voyage. 25 
 
 danger ; and as I had suffered great anxiety at their not return- 
 ing in the evening of the day on which they set out, I was not 
 wholly without my share. 
 
 On the 20th, Banks and Solander went on shore to visit an 
 Indian town, which some of the people had reported to lie about 
 two miles up the country. When they got within a small dis- 
 tance, two of the people came out to meet them, with such state 
 as they could assume. When they joined them, they began to 
 halloo as they had done on board the ship, without addressing 
 themselves either to the strangers or their companions; and 
 having continued this strange vociferation for some time, they 
 conducted them to the town. It was situated on a dry knoll, or 
 small hiU, covered with wood, none of which seemed to have 
 been cleared away, and consisted of about twelve or fourteen 
 hovels, of the most rude and inartificial stmcture that can be 
 imagined. They were nothing more than a few poles set up so 
 as to incline towards each other, and meet at the top, forming a 
 kind of a cone, like some of our bee-hives : on the weather-side 
 they were covered with a few boughs and a little grass, and on 
 the lee-side about one-eighth of the circle was left open, both for 
 a door and a fire-place ; and of this kind were the huts that had 
 been seen in St. Vincent's bay, in one of which the embers of a 
 tire were still remaining. Furniture they had none ; a little 
 grass, which lay round the inside of the hovel, served both for 
 
 drop off into a sleep from which they never would have awakened in this world. 
 Captain M'Clure, however, was aware of this danger ; and his voice aromsed them 
 to exertion." — Cajpt. Sherard Osbom's narrative of M^Clures Voyage. 
 
 On another occasion a man named Wliitefield was very nearly lost, having 
 strayed from the ship, and was found '* stiff and rigid as a corpse." 
 
 Dr. M'Cormack also had a very narrow escape. He passed a whole day and 
 night without food or shelter, beyond what the snow drift afforded, about seven 
 miles from his ship, in a dense fog and snow storm. 
 
26 CooHs Voyages, 
 
 chairs and beds ; and of all the utensils which necessity and in- 
 genuity have concurred to produce among other savage nations, 
 they saw only a basket to carry in the hand, a satchel to hang 
 at the back, and the bladder of some beast to hold water, which 
 the natives drink through a hole that is made near the top for 
 that purpose. The only clothing they had was scarcely sufiScient 
 to prevent their perishing with cold in the summer of this 
 country, much less in the extreme severity of winter. 
 
 We saw no appearance of their having any food but shell- 
 fish ; for though seals were frequently seen near the shore, they 
 seemed to have no implements for taking them. The shell-fish 
 is collected by the women, whose business it seems to be to 
 attend at low water, with a basket in one hand, and a stick, 
 pointed and barbed, in the other, and a satchel at their backs. 
 They loosen the limpets and other fish that adhere to the rocks 
 with the stick, and put them into the basket, which, when full, 
 they empty into the satchel. 
 
 The only things that we found among them, in which there 
 was the least appearance of neatness or ingenuity, were their 
 weapons, which consisted of a bow and arrows. The bow was 
 not inelegantly made, and the arrows were the neatest that we 
 had ever seen : they were of wood, polished to the highest de- 
 gree ; and the point, which was of glass or flint, and barbed, was 
 formed and fitted with wonderful dexterity. We saw also some 
 pieces of glass and flint among them unwrought, besides rings, 
 buttons, cloth, and canvass, with other European commodities ; 
 they must, therefore, sometimes travel to the northward, for it is 
 many years since any ship has been so far south as this part of 
 Terra del Fuego. We observed, also, that they shewed no sur- 
 prise at our fire-arms, with the use of which they appeared to be 
 
First Voyage, 27 
 
 well acquainted ; for they made signs to Mr. Banks to shoot a 
 seal which followed the boat, as they were going on shore from 
 the ship. 
 
 M. de Bougainville, who, in January 17.68, just one year be- 
 fore us, had been on shore upon this coast in latitude 53° 40' 
 41'', had, among other things, given glass to the people whom he 
 found here ; for he says, that a boy about twelve years old took 
 it into his head to eat some of it. By this unhappy accident he 
 died in great misery ; but the endeavours of the good father, the 
 French aumonier, were more successful than those of the sur- 
 geon ; for though the surgeon could not save his life, the chari- 
 table priest found means to steal a Christian baptism upon him 
 so secretly that none of his pagan relations knew anything of the 
 matter. 
 
 Upon the whole, these people appear to be the most destitute 
 and forlorn,^as well as the most stupid, of all human beings ; 
 the outcasts of nature, who spent their lives in wandering about 
 the dreary wastes, where two of our people perished with cold in 
 the midst of summer ; with no dwelling but a wretched hovel of 
 sticks and grass, which would not only admit the wind, but the 
 snow and the rain ; almost naked ; and destitute of every con- 
 venience that is furnished by the rudest art, having no imple- 
 ment even to dress their food : yet they were content.* They 
 seemed to have no wish for anything more than they possessed, 
 nor did anything that we offered them appear acceptable but 
 beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. What bodily pain 
 they might suffer from the severities of their winter we could 
 
 * Ml". Parker Snow, in his deeply interesting narrative of a "Two Years' 
 Cruize off Terra del Fuego," etc., describes the natives of the present day as 
 '* perfectly nude, wild and shaggy in appearance, with long spears in their hands" 
 — " they were indeed, in appearance, like so many fiendish imps." 
 
28 CooMs Voyages. 
 
 not know ; but it is certain that they suffered nothing from the 
 want of the innumerable articles which we consider not as the 
 luxuries and conveniences only but the necessaries of life : as 
 their desires are few, they probably enjoy them all : and how 
 much they may be gainers by an exemption from the care, 
 labour, and solicitude, which arise from a perpetual and unsuc- 
 cessful effort to gratify that infinite variety of desires which the 
 refinements of artificial life have produced among us, is not very 
 easy to determine : possibly this may counterbalance all the real 
 disadvantages of their situation in comparison with ours, and 
 make the scales by which good and evil are distributed to man 
 hang even between us. 
 
 On the 26th January we took our departure from Cape Horn, 
 and by the first of March we were in latitude 88° 44' S., and 
 longitude 110° 33' W., both by observation and by the log. This 
 agreement, after a run of 660 leagues, was thought to be very 
 extraordinary ; and is a demonstration, that after we left the 
 land of Cape Horn we had no current that affected the ship. It 
 renders it also highly probable that we had been near no land 
 of any considerable extent ; for currents are always found when 
 land is not remote, and sometimes, particularly on the east side 
 of the continent in the North Sea, when land has been distant 
 100 leagues. 
 
 On Tuesday the 4th of April, about ten o'clock in the 
 morning, Banks' servant, Briscoe, discovered land, bearing south, 
 at the distance of about three or four leagues. I immediately 
 hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, 
 with a lagoon in the middle, which occupied much the larger 
 part of it ; the border of land which circumscribes the lagoon 
 is in many places very low and narrow, particularly on the south 
 
First Voyage. 29 
 
 side, where it consists principally of a beach or reef of rocks. 
 We saw several of the natives upon the shore, and counted four 
 and twenty. They appeared to be tall, and to have heads re- 
 markably large ; perhaps they had something wound round them 
 which we could not distinguish ; they w^ere of a copper colour, 
 and had long black hair. Their habitations were under some 
 clumps of palm-nut trees, which at a distance appeared like high 
 
 roljTiesian Island— Lagoon shaped, and composed of Coral. 
 
 ground ; and to us, who for a long time had seen nothing but 
 water and sky, except the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, these 
 groves seemed a terrestrial Paradise. To this spot we gave the 
 name of Lagoon Island. 
 
 About one o'clock we made sail to the westward, and about 
 half an hour after three we saw land again to the N.W. We 
 got up with it at sunset, and it proved to be a low woody island, 
 of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compass. We 
 called it Thrumb Cap. 
 
30 CooHs Voyages. 
 
 We went on with a fine trade-wind and pleasant weather, 
 and on the 5th, about three in the afternoon, we discovered land 
 to the westward. It proved to be a low island of much greater 
 extent than either of those that we had seen before, being about 
 ten or twelve leagues in compass. Several of us remained at the 
 mast-head the whole evening, admiring its extraordinary figure ; 
 it was shaped exactly like a bow, the arc and cord of which were 
 land, and the space between them water ; the cord was a flat 
 beach, without any signs of vegetation, having nothing upon it 
 but heaps of sea-weed, which lay in different ridges, as higher or 
 lower tides had left them. We sailed a-breast of the low beach 
 or bow-string, within less than a league of the shore, till sunset, 
 and we then judged ourselves to be half way between the two 
 horns. Here we brought too and sounded, but found no bottom 
 with one hundred and thirty fathoms ; and, as it is dark almost 
 instantly after sunset in these latitudes, we suddenly lost sight 
 of the land, and making sail again, before the line was well 
 hauled in, we steered by the sound of the breakers, which were 
 distinctly heard till we got clear of the coast. We knew this 
 island to be inhabited, by smoke which we saw in different parts 
 of it, and we gave it the name of Bow Island. 
 
 On the next day, Thursday the 6th, about noon, we saw land 
 again to the westward, and came up with it about three. It ap- 
 peared to be two islands, or rather groups of islands, extending 
 from KW. by K, to S.K by S., about nine leagues. To these 
 islands we gave the name of the Groups. 
 
 On the 7th, about half an hour after six in the morning, 
 being just at daybreak, we discovered another island to the 
 northward, which we judged to be about four miles in circum- 
 ference. The land lay very low, and there was a piece of water 
 
First Voyage. 31 
 
 in the middle of it ; there seemed to be some wood upon it, and 
 it looked green and pleasant ; but we saw neither cocoa-trees nor 
 inhabitants : it abounded, however, with birds, and we, therefore, 
 gave it the name of Bird Island. 
 
 On the 8th, about two o'clock in the afternoon, we saw land 
 to the northward, and about sunset came abreast of it, at about 
 the distance of two leagues. It appeared to be a double range 
 of low woody islands joined together by reefs, so as to form one 
 island, in the form of an ellipsis or oval, with a lake in the 
 middle of it. The small islands and reefs that circumscribe the 
 lake have the appearance of a chain, and we therefore gave it 
 the name of Chain Island. 
 
 On the 10th, having had a tempestuous night with thunder 
 and rain, the weather was hazy till about nine o'clock in the 
 morning, when it cleared up, and we saw the island to which 
 Captain WaUis, who first discovered it, gave the name of Osna- 
 burgh Island. It is a high round island, not above a league in 
 circuit ; in some parts it is covered with trees, and in others a 
 naked rock. In this direction it looked like a high-crowned hat; 
 but when it bears north, the top of it has more the appearance of 
 the roof of a house. 
 
 Tahiti or Otaheite. 
 
 About one o'clock, on Monday the 10th of April, some of 
 the people who were looking out for the island to which we 
 were bound, said they saw land a-head, in that part of the 
 horizon where it was expected to appear ; but it was so faint 
 that whether there was land in sight or not remained a matter 
 of dispute till sunset. The next morning, however, at six o'clock, 
 we were convinced that those who said they had discovered land 
 
32 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 were not mistaken ; it appeared to be very high and mountain- 
 ous, extending from W. by S. J S. to W. by K i K, and we 
 knew it to be the same that Captain Wallis had called Eling 
 George III.'s Island. We were delayed in our approach to it by 
 light airs and calms, so that in the morning of the 12th we were 
 but little nearer than we had been the night before ; but about 
 seven a breeze sprang up, and before eleven several canoes were 
 seen making towards the ship : there were but few of them, how- 
 ever, that would come near ; and the people in those that did 
 could not be persuaded to come on board. In every canoe there 
 were young plantains, and branches of a tree which the Indians 
 call E'Midho : these, as we afterwards learnt, were brought as 
 tokens of peace and amity ; and the people in one of the canoes 
 handed them up the ship's side, making signals at the same time 
 with great earnestness, which we did not immediately under- 
 stand ; at length we guessed that they wished these symbols 
 should be placed in some conspicuous part of the ship ; we, 
 therefore, immediately stuck them among the rigging, at which 
 they expressed the greatest satisfaction. We then purchased 
 their cargoes, consisting of cocoa-nuts and various kinds of fruit, 
 which after our long voyage were very acceptable. 
 
 We stood on with an easy sail aU night, with soundings from 
 twenty-two fathom to twelve, and about seven o'clock in the 
 morning we came to an anchor in thirteen fathom, in Portroyal 
 Bay, called by the natives Matavai. We were immediately sur- 
 rounded by the natives in their canoes, who gave us cocoa-nuts, 
 fruit resembling apples, bread-fruit, and some small fishes, in 
 exchange for beads and other trifles. They had with them a 
 pig, which they would not part with for anything but a hatchet, 
 and therefore we refused to purchase it ; because if we gave 
 
First Voyage. 33 
 
 them a hatchet for a pig now, we knew they would never after- 
 wards sell one for less, and we could not afford to buy as many 
 as it was probable we should want at that 
 price. The bread-fruit grows on a tree that 
 is about the size of a middling oak ; its leaves 
 are frequently a foot and a half long, of an 
 oblong shape, deeply sinuated like those of 
 the fig-tree, which they resemble in consist- 
 ence and colour, and in the exuding of a white 
 milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is 
 about the size and shape of a child's head, and ^""^^ ^™^*- 
 
 the surface is reticulated, not much unlike a truffle : it is 
 covered with a thin skin, and has a core about as big as the 
 handle of a small knife: the eatable part lies between the 
 skin and the core : it is as white as snow, and somewhat of 
 the consistence of new bread : it must be roasted before it is 
 eaten, being first divided into three or four parts : its taste is 
 insipid, with a slight sweetness, somewhat resembling that of the 
 crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke. 
 
 Among others who came off to the ship was an elderly man, 
 whose name, as we learnt afterwards, was Owhaw, and who was 
 immediately known to Mr. Gore, and several others who had 
 been here with Captain Wallis. As I was informed that he had 
 been very useful to them, I took him on board the ship with 
 some others, and was particularly attentive to gratify him, as I 
 hoped he might also be useful to us. 
 
 As soon as the ship was properly secured, I went on shore 
 with a party of men under arms. AVe were received from the 
 boat by some hundreds of the inhabitants, whose looks at least 
 gave us welcome, though they were struck with such awe, that 
 
 D 
 
34 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the first who approached us crouched so low that he almost crept 
 upon his hands and knees. It is remarkable that he, like the 
 people in the canoes, presented to us the same symbol of peace 
 that is known to have been in use among the ancient and mighty 
 nations of the northern hemisphere, the green branch of a tree. 
 We received it with looks and gestures of kindness and satisfac- 
 tion ; and observing that each of them held one in his hand, we 
 immediately gathered every one a bough, and carried it in our 
 hands in the same manner. 
 
 Our circuit was not less than four or five miles, through 
 groves of trees, which were loaded with cocoa-nuts and l)read- 
 fruit, and afforded the most grateful shade. Under these trees 
 were the habitations of the people, most of them being only a 
 roof without walls, and the whole scene realised the poetical 
 fables of Arcadia. We remarked, however, not without some 
 regret, that in all our walk we had seen only two hogs, and not 
 a single fowl. 
 
 In the morning, before we could leave the ship, several 
 canoes came about us, most of them from the westward, and two 
 of them were fiUed. with people, who, by their dress and deport- 
 ment, appeared to be of a superior rank : two of these came on 
 board, and each singled out his friend ; one of them, whose name 
 we found to be Matahah, fixed upon Mr. Banks, and the other 
 upon me: this ceremony consisted in taking off great part of 
 their clothes and putting them upon us. In return for this, we 
 presented each of them with a hatchet and some beads. Soon 
 after, they made signs for us to go with them to the places where 
 they lived, pointing to the S.W. ; and as I was desirous of find- 
 ing a more commodious harbour, and making farther trial of the 
 disposition of the people, I consented. 
 
First Voyage, 35 
 
 I ordered out two boats, and after rowing about a league, they 
 made signs that we should go on shore, and gave us to under- 
 stand that this was the place of their residence. We accordingly- 
 landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted 
 us into a house of much greater length than any we had seen. 
 When we entered, we saw a middle-aged man, whose name was 
 afterwards discovered to be Tootahah : mats were immediately 
 spread, and we were desired to sit down over against him. Soon 
 after we were seated, he ordered a cock and hen to be brought 
 out, which he presented to Mr. Banks and me : we accepted the 
 present ; and in a short time each of us received a piece of cloth, 
 perfumed after their manner, by no means disagreeably, which 
 they took great pains to make us remark. The piece presented 
 to Mr. Banks was eleven yards long and two wide ; in return 
 for which, he gave a laced silk neckcloth, which he happened to 
 have on, and a linen pocket-handkerchief: Tootahah imme- 
 diately dressed himself in this new finery, with an air of perfect 
 complacency and satisfaction. 
 
 On taking leave of our friendly chief, we directed our course 
 along the shore. When we had walked about a mile, we met, 
 at the head of a great number of people, another chief, whose 
 name was Tubourai Tamaide, with whom we were also to ratify 
 a treaty of peace, with the ceremony of which we were now 
 become better acquainted. Having received the branch which 
 he presented to us, and given another in return, we laid our 
 hands upon our left breasts, and pronounced the word Taio, 
 which we supposed to signify friend ; the chief then gave us to 
 understand, that if we chose to eat, he had victuals ready for us. 
 We accepted his offer, and dined very heartily upon fish, bread- 
 fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, dressed after their manner : they 
 
2,6 Cook^s Voyages, 
 
 ate some of their fish raw ; and raw fish was offered to us, but 
 we declined that part of the entertainment. 
 
 During this visit a wife of our noble host, whose name was 
 Tomio, did Mr. Banks the honour to place herself upon the same 
 mat, close by him. Tomio was not in the first bloom of her 
 youth, nor did she appear to have been ever remarkable for her 
 beauty ; he did not, therefore, I believe, pay her the most 
 flattering attention : it happened, too, as a farther mortification 
 to this lady, that seeing a very pretty girl among the crowd, he, 
 not adverting to the dignity of his companion, beckoned her to 
 come to him : the girl, after some entreaty, complied, and sat 
 down on the other side of him : he loaded her with beads, and 
 every showy trifle that would please her : his princess, though 
 she was somewhat mortified at the preference that was given to 
 her rival, did not discontinue her civilities, but still assiduously 
 supplied him with the milk of the cocoa-nut, and such other 
 dainties as were in her reach. This scene might possibly have 
 become more curious and interesting, if it had not been suddenly 
 interrupted by an interlude of a more serious kind. Just at this 
 time, Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse complained that their 
 pockets had been picked. Dr. Solander had lost an opera-glass 
 in a shagreen case, and Mr. Monkhouse his snuff-box. This in- 
 cident unfortunately put an end to the good-humour of the com- 
 pany. Complaint of the injury was made to the chief ; and to 
 give it weight, Mr. Banks started up, and hastily struck the 
 butt end of his firelock upon the ground : this action, and the 
 noise that accompanied it, struck the whole assembly with a 
 panic ; and every one of the natives ran out of the house with 
 the utmost precipitation, except the chief, three women, and two 
 or three others, who appeared by their dress to be of a superior rank. 
 
First Voyage, 37 
 
 As in my excursion to the "westward, I had not found any 
 more convenient harbour than that in which we lay, I deter- 
 mined to go on shore, and fix upon some spot, commanded by the 
 ship's guns, where I might throw up a small fort for our defence, 
 and prepare for making our astronomical observation. I there- 
 fore took a party of men, and landed without delay, accompanied 
 by Banks, Solander, and the astronomer. Green. We soon fixed 
 upon a part of the sandy beach, on the N.E. point of the bay, 
 which was in every respect convenient for our purpose, and not 
 near any habitation of the natives. Having marked out the 
 ground that we intended to occupy, a small tent belonging 
 to Mr. Banks was set up, which had been brought on shore 
 for that purpose. By this time a great number of the people 
 had gathered about us ; but, as it appeared, only to look on, 
 there not being a single weapon of any kind among them. 
 I intimated, however, that none of them were to come 
 within the line I had drawn, except one who appeared to be a 
 chief, and Owhaw. To these two persons I addressed myseK by 
 signs, and endeavoured to make them understand that we wanted 
 the ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain 
 number of nights, and that then we should go away. Whether 
 I was understood I cannot certainly determine ; but the people 
 behaved with a deference and respect that at once pleased and 
 surprised us. They sat down peaceably without the circle, and 
 looked on without giving us any interruption till we had done, 
 which was upwards of two hours. As we had seen no poultry, 
 and but two hogs, in our walk when we were last on shore at 
 this place, we suspected that, upon our arrival, they had been 
 driven further up the country ; and the rather, as Owhaw was 
 very importunate with us, by signs, not to go into the woods. 
 
38 Coo Us Voyages. 
 
 which, however, and partly for these reasons, we were determined 
 to do. Having, therefore, appointed the thirteen marines and a 
 petty officer to guard the tent, we set out, and a great number of 
 the natives joined our party. As we were crossing a little river 
 that lay in our way, we saw some ducks, and Mr. Banks, as soon 
 as he had got over, fired at them, and happened to kill three at 
 one shot : this struck them with the utmost terror, so that most 
 of them fell suddenly to the ground, as if they also had been 
 shot at the same discharge. It was not long, however, before 
 they recovered from their fright, and we continued our route, 
 but we had not gone far before we were alarmed by the report of 
 two pieces, which were fired by the guard at the tent. We had 
 then straggled a little distance from each other, but Owhaw im- 
 mediately called us together, and, by waving his hand, sent away 
 every Indian who followed us except three, each of whom, as a 
 pledge of peace on their part, and an entreaty that there might be 
 peace on ours, hastily broke a branch from the trees, and came 
 to us with it in their hands. As we had too much reason to fear 
 that some mischief had happened, we hasted back to the tent, 
 which was not distant above half a mile, and when we came up, 
 we found it entirely deserted, except by our own people. 
 
 It appeared that one of the Indians, who remained about the 
 tent after we left it, had watched his opportunity, and, taking 
 the sentry unawares, had snatched away his musket. Upon this, 
 the petty officer, a midshipman, who commanded the party, per- 
 haps from a sudden fear of farther violence, perhaps from the 
 natural petulance of power newly acquired, and perhaps from a 
 brutality in his nature, ordered the marines to fire. The men, 
 with as little consideration or humanity as the officer, immedi- 
 ately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying 
 
First Voyage. 39 
 
 crowd, consisting of more than a hundred ; and observing that 
 the thief did not fall, pursued him, and shot him dead. We 
 afterwards learnt that none of the others were either killed or 
 wounded. 
 
 Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now 
 totally deserted, got together a few of those who had fled, though 
 not without some difidcultj, and ranged them about us. We 
 endeavoured to justify our people as weU as we could, and to 
 convince the Indians that, if they did no wrong to us, we should 
 do no wrong to them. They went away without any appearance 
 of distrust or resentment ; and having struck our tent, v/e re- 
 turned to the ship, but by no means satisfied with the transactions 
 of the day. 
 
 On the 18th, at daybreak, I went on shore, with as many 
 people as could possibly be spared from the ship, and began to 
 erect our fort. While some were employed in throwing up 
 intrenchments, others were busy in cutting pickets and fascines, 
 which the natives, who soon gathered round us as they had been 
 used to do, were so far from hindering, that many of them volun- 
 tarily assisted us, bringing the pickets and fascines from the 
 wood where they had been cut, with great alacrity. We had, 
 indeed, been so scrupulous of invading their property, that we 
 purchased every stake which was used upon this occasion, and 
 cut down no tree till we had first obtained their consent. 
 
 Our residence on shore would by no means have been dis- 
 agreeable, if we had not been incessantly tormented by the flies, 
 which, among other mischief, made it almost impossible for 
 Parkinson, Mr. Banks's natural history painter, to work ; for they 
 not only covered his subject so as that no part of its surface 
 could be seen, but even ate the colour ofl' the paper as fast as he 
 
40 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 could lay it on. We had recourse to mosquito-nets and fly-traps, 
 wHch, though they made the inconvenience tolerable, were very 
 far from removing it. 
 
 On the 22d, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of 
 this country : four persons performed upon flutes, which had 
 only two stops, and therefore could not sound more than four 
 notes, by half tones : they were sounded like our German flutes, 
 except that the performer, instead of applying it to his mouth, 
 blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped the other with 
 his thumb : to these instruments four other persons sung, and 
 kept very good time ; but only one tune was played during the 
 whole concert. 
 
 I must bear my testimony, that the people of this country, 
 of all ranks, men and women, are the arrantest thieves upon the 
 face of the earth. The very day after we arrived here, when 
 they came on board us, the chiefs were employed in stealing 
 what they could in the cabin, and their dependents were no less 
 industrious in other parts of the ship ; they snatched up every- 
 thing that it was possible for them to secrete till they got on 
 shore, even to the glass ports, two of which they carried off 
 undetected. It may also be observed that these people have a 
 knowledge of right and wrong from the mere dictates of natural 
 conscience ; and involuntarily condemn themselves when they 
 do that to others which they would condemn others for doing to 
 them. We must, indeed, estimate the virtue of these people by 
 the only standard of morality, the conformity of their conduct to 
 what in their opinion is right ; but we must not hastily conclude 
 that theft is a testimony of the same depravity in them that it is 
 in us, in the instances in which our people were sufferers by their 
 dishonesty ; for their temptation was such as to surmount what 
 
First Voyage, 41 
 
 would be considered as a proof of uncommon integrity among 
 those who have more knowledge, better principles, and stronger 
 motives to resist the temptations of illicit advantage : an Indian 
 among penny knives and beads, or even nails and broken glass, 
 is in the same state of trial with the meanest servant in Europe 
 among unlocked coffers of jewels and gold. 
 
 Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready 
 to express any passion that was strongly excited, and like those 
 of children they also appeared to be forgotten as soon as shed ; 
 of which the following, among many others, is a remarkable 
 instance : — Very early in the morning of the 28th, even before it 
 was day, a great number of them came down to the fort, and 
 Terapo being observed among the women on the outside of the 
 gate, Mr. Banks went out and brought her in ; he saw that the 
 tears then stood in her eyes, and as soon as she entered they 
 began to flow in great abundance : he inquired earnestly the 
 cause, but instead of answering she took from under her garment 
 a shark's tooth, and struck it six or seven times into her head 
 with great force ; a profusion of blood followed, and she talked 
 loud, but in a most melancholy tone, for some minutes, without 
 at all regarding his inquiries, which he repeated with still more 
 impatience and concern, while the other Indians, to his great 
 surprise, talked and laughed, without taking the least notice of 
 her distress. But her own behaviour was still more extraordinary. 
 As soon as the bleeding was over, she looked up with a smile, 
 and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, which during 
 her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood ; as soon 
 as she had picked them all up, she carried them out of the tent, 
 and threw them into the sea, carefully dispersing them abroad, 
 as if she wished to prevent the sight of them from reviving the 
 
42 CooMs Voyages. 
 
 remembrance of what she had done. She then plunged into the 
 river, and after having washed her whole body returned to the 
 tents with the same gaiety and cheerfulness as if nothing had 
 happened. 
 
 It is not, indeed, strange, that the sorrows of these artless 
 people should be transient, any more than that their passions 
 should be suddenly and strongly expressed : what they feel they 
 have never been taught either to disguise or suppress, and 
 having no habits of thinking which perpetually recall the past 
 and anticipate the future, they are affected by all the changes of 
 the passing hour, and reflect the colour of the time, however 
 frequently it may vary ; they have no project which is to be 
 pursued from day to day, the subject of unremitted anxiety and 
 solicitude, that first rushes into their mind when they awake in 
 the morning, and is last dismissed when they sleep at night. 
 Yet if we admit that they are upon the whole happier than we, 
 we must admit that the child is happier than the man, and that 
 we are losers by the perfection of our nature, the increase of our 
 knowledge, and the enlargement of our views. 
 
 Queen Oberea. 
 
 The attention of all was now diverted from every other 
 object, and wholly engaged in considering a person who had 
 made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been 
 given of this island by its first discoverers ; and we soon learnt 
 that her name was Oberea. She seemed to be about forty years 
 of age, and was not only tall but of a large make ; her skin was 
 white, and there was an uncommon intelligence and sensibility 
 in her eyes ; she appeared to have been handsome when she was 
 
First Voyage, 43 
 
 young, but at tliis time little more than memorials of her beauty 
 were left 
 
 As soon as her quality was known, an offer was made to 
 conduct her to the ship. Of this she readily accepted, and came 
 on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be 
 all of her family : I received her with such marks of distinction 
 as I thought would gratify her most, and was not sparing of my 
 presents, among which this august personage seemed particularly 
 delighted with a child's doll. After some time spent on board, 
 I attended her back to the shore ; and as soon as we landed, she 
 presented me with a hog and several bunches of plantains, which 
 she caused to be carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind 
 of procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In 
 our way to the fort we met Tootahah, who, though not king, 
 appeared to be at this time invested with the sovereign authority ; 
 he seemed not to be well pleased with the distinction that was 
 shown to the lady, and became so jealous when she produced her 
 doU, that to propitiate him it was thought proper to compliment 
 him with another. At this time he thought fit to prefer a doll to 
 a hatchet; but this preference arose only from a childish jealousy, 
 which could not be soothed but by a gift of exactly the same kind 
 with that which had been presented to Oberea ; for dolls in a 
 very short time were universally considered as trifles of no value. 
 
 In the afternoon of Monday the 1st of May, we set up the 
 observatory, and took the astronomical quadrant, with some other 
 instruments, on shore, for the first time. The next morning, 
 about nine o'clock, I went on shore with Mr. Green to fix the 
 quadrant in a situation for use, when to our inexpressible sur- 
 prise and concern it was not to be found. It had been deposited 
 in the tent which was reserved for my use, where, as I passed 
 
44 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 the night on board, nobody slept ; it had never been taken out 
 of the packing-case, which was eighteen inches square, and the 
 whole was of considerable weight ; a sentinel had been posted 
 the whole night within five yards of the tent door, and none of 
 the other instruments were missing. Mr. Banks, who upon 
 such occasions declined neither labour nor risk, and who had 
 more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to 
 go in search of it into the woods. He set out, accompanied by 
 a midshipman and Mr. Green, and as he was crossing the river 
 he was met by Tubourai Tamaide, who immediately made the 
 figure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon his hand. By 
 this he knew that the Indians were the thieves ; and that, although 
 they had opened the case, they were not disposed to part with 
 the contents. No time was therefore to be lost, and he made 
 Tubourai Tamaide understand, that he must instantly go with 
 him to the place whither the quadrant had been carried ; he con- 
 sented, and they set out together to the eastward, the chief inquir- 
 ing at every house which they passed after the thief by name : 
 the people readily told him which way he was gone, and how 
 long it was since he had been there : the hope which this gave 
 them that they should overtake him, supported them under their 
 fatigue, and they pressed forward, sometimes walking, sometimes 
 running, though the weather was intolerably hot ; when they 
 had climbed a hiU at the distance of about four miles, their con- 
 ductor shewed them a point fuU three miles farther, and gave 
 them to understand that they were not to expect the instrument 
 tiU they had got thither. Here they paused ; they had no arms 
 except a pair of pistols, which Mr. Banks always carried in his 
 pocket ; they were going to a place that was at least seven 
 miles distant from the fort, where the Indians might be less 
 
First Voyage. 45 
 
 submissive than at home, and to take from them what they had 
 ventured their lives to get, and what, notwithstanding our con- 
 jectures, they appeared desirous to keep : these were discourag- 
 ing circumstances, and their situation would become more 
 critical at every step. They determined, however, not to 
 relinquish their enterprise, nor to pursue it without taking the 
 best measures for their security that were in their power. It 
 was therefore determined that Banks and Green should* go on, 
 and that the midshipman should return to me, and desire that I 
 would send a party of men after them, acquainting me, at the 
 same time, that it was impossible they should return till it was 
 dark. Upon receiving this message I set out with such a party as 
 I thought sufficient for the occasion ; leaving orders, both at the 
 ship and at the fort that no canoe should be suffered to go out of 
 the bay, but that none of the natives should be seized or detained. 
 In the meantime Banks and Green pursued their journey 
 under the auspices of Tubourai Tamaide, and in the very spot 
 which he had specified they met one of his own people with 
 part of the quadrant in his hand. At this most welcome sight 
 they stopped, and a great number of Indians immediately came 
 up, some of whom pressing rather rudely upon them, Mr. Banks 
 thought it necessary to shew one of his pistols, the sight of 
 which reduced them instantly to order : as the crowd that 
 gathered round them was every moment increasing, he marked 
 out a circle in the grass, and they ranged themselves on the ou1>- 
 side of it to the number of several hundreds, with great quiet- 
 ness and decorum. Into the middle of this circle the box, which 
 was now arrived, was ordered to be brought, with several read- 
 ing-glasses, and other small matters, which in their hurry they 
 had put into a pistol-case that Mr. Banks knew to be his pro- 
 
46 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 perty, it having been some time before stolen from the tents 
 with a horse-pistol in it, which he immediately demanded, and 
 which was also restored. 
 
 On the 10th, I put some seeds of melons and other plants 
 into a spot of ground which had been turned up for the purpose ; 
 they had all been sealed up by the person of whom they were 
 bought, in small bottles with rosin ; but none of them came up 
 except mustard; even the cucumbers and melons failed, and 
 Mr. Banks is of opinion that they were spoiled by the total ex- 
 clusion of fresh air. 
 
 This day we learnt the Indian name of the island, which is 
 Otaheite, and by that name I shall hereafter distinguish it. 
 
 Wonderful Feats in Swimming. 
 
 As we were returning to the ship, from another visit to 
 Tootahah, who had removed to a place called Atahourou, we 
 were entertained with a sight that in some measure compensated 
 for the fatigue and disappointment which that visit had occa- 
 sioned. In our way we came to one of the few places where 
 access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and, consequently, 
 a high surf breaks upon the shore ; a more dreadful one, indeed, 
 I had seldom seen ; it was impossible for any European boat to 
 have lived in it ; and if the best swimmer in Europe had, by 
 any accident, been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he 
 would not have been able to preserve himself from drowning, 
 especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large 
 stones ; yet, in the midst of these breakers, were ten or twelve 
 Indians swimming for their amusement : whenever a surf broke 
 near them, they dived under it, and, to all appearance with in- 
 finite facility, rose again on the other side. This diversion was 
 
First Voyage. 47 
 
 greatly improved by the stern of an old canoe, which they hap- 
 pened to find upon the spot : they took this before them, and 
 swam out with it as far as the outermost breach, then two or 
 three of them getting into it, and turning the square end to the 
 breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with incredible 
 rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach ; but generally the wave 
 broke over them before they got half way, in which case they 
 dived, and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands : 
 they then swam out with it again, and were again driven back, 
 just as our holiday youth climb the hill in Greenwich Park for 
 the pleasure of rolling down it. At this wonderful scene we 
 stood gazing for more than half an hour, during which time none 
 of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to 
 enjoy their sport in the highest degree. 
 
 Upon this occasion it may be observed, that human nature is 
 endued with powers which are only accidentally exerted to the 
 utmost ; and that all men are capable of what no man attains, 
 except he is stimulated to the effort by some uncommon circum- 
 stances or situation. These Indians effected what to us appeared 
 to be supernatural, merely by the application of such powers as 
 they possessed in common with us, and all other men who have 
 no particular infirmity or defect. The truth of the observation 
 is also manifest from more familiar instances. The rope-dancer 
 and balance-master owe their art, not to any peculiar liberality 
 of nature, but to an accidental improvement of her common gifts ; 
 and though equal diligence and application would not always 
 produce equal excellence in these, any more than in other arts, 
 yet there is no doubt but that a certain degree of proficiency in 
 them might be universally attained. Another proof of the exist- 
 ence of abilities iu mankind, that are almost universally dormant, 
 
48 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 is furnished by the attainments of blind men. It cannot be sup- 
 posed that the loss of one sense, like the amputation of a branch 
 from a tree, gives new vigour to those that remain. Every man's 
 hearing and touch, therefore, are capable of the nice distinctions 
 which astonish us in those that have lost their sight, and if they 
 do not give the same intelligence to the mind, it is merely because 
 the same intelligence is not required of them : he that can see 
 may do from choice what the blind do by necessity, and by the 
 same diligent attention to the other senses may receive the same 
 notices from them ; let it, therefore, be remembered, as an en- 
 couragement to persevering diligence, and a principle of general 
 use to mankind, that he who does all he can will ever effect 
 much more than is generally thought to be possible. 
 
 The Transit of Venus. 
 
 In consequence of some hints which had .been given me by 
 Lord Morton, I determined to send out two parties to observe the 
 transit from other situations ; hoping, that if we should fail at 
 Otaheite, they might have better success. 
 
 At daybreak of June 3, they got up, and had the satisfaction to 
 see the sun rise without a cloud, and to make a most successful 
 observation of the first internal contact of the planet with the sun. 
 
 The observation was made with equal success by the persons 
 whom I had sent to the eastward ; and at the fort, there not being 
 a cloud in the sky from the rising to the setting of the sun, the 
 whole passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disk was ob- 
 served with great advantage by Green, Solander, and myself : 
 Green's telescope and mine were of the same magnifying power, 
 but that of Solander was greater. We aU saw an atmosphere or 
 dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which very much dis- 
 
First Voyage. 49 
 
 turbed the times of contact, especially of tlie internal ones ; and 
 we differed from each other in our accounts of the times of the 
 contacts much more than might have been expected. According 
 to Mr. Green, 
 
 H. M. s. 
 The first external contact, or first appearance of Venus ) \ 
 
 on the sun, was . . . . . ) > Morning. 
 
 The first internal contact, or total emersion, was . 9 44 4 ) 
 
 The second internal contact, or beginning of the emersion 3 14 8 ) a ffg->,of)n 
 The second external contact, or total emersion . 3 32 10 ) 
 
 The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17° 29' 15'', and 
 the londtude 149° 32' 30'' W. of Greenwich. 
 
 -O' 
 
 FUNEKEAL ElTES AND SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 About this time the death of an old woman of some rank, gave 
 us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body, and con- 
 firmed us in our opinion that these people, contrary to the present 
 custom of aU other nations now known, never bury their dead. 
 In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the 
 awning of a canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this the 
 body was deposited upon a frame covered with fine cloth, and near 
 it was placed bread-fruit, fish, and other provisions : we suppose 
 that the food was placed there for the spirit of the deceased, and 
 consequently, that these Indians had some confused notion of a 
 separate state ; but upon our applying for further information to 
 Tubourai Tamaide, he told us that the food was placed there as 
 an offering to their gods. They do not, however, suppose that 
 the gods eat, any more than the Jews suppose that Jehovah 
 could dwell in a house : the offering is made here upon the 
 same principle as the temple was built at Jerusalem, as an ex- 
 
 E 
 
50 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 pression of reverence and gratitude, and a solicitation of the 
 more immediate presence of the Deity. In the front of the area 
 was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased stood, to 
 pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were in- 
 numerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood 
 of the mourners had been shed ; for in their paroxysms of grief 
 it is a universal custom to wound themselves with the shark's 
 tooth. Within a few yards two occasional houses were set up, in 
 one of which some relations of the deceased constantly resided, and 
 in the other the chief mourner, who is always a man, and who 
 keeps there a very singular dress in which a ceremony is per- 
 formed. I^ear the place where the dead are thus set up to rot, 
 the bones are afterwards buried. 
 
 What can have introduced among these people the custom of 
 exposing their dead above ground till the flesh is consumed by 
 putrefaction, and then burying the bones, it is, perhaps, impos- 
 sible to guess ; but it is remarkable, that -^lian and Apollonius 
 Ehodius impute a si>milar practice to . the ancient inhabitants of 
 Colchis, a country near Pontus, in Asia, now called Mingrelia ; 
 except that among them this manner of disposing of the dead 
 did not extend to both sexes : the women they buried ; but the 
 men they wrapped in a hide, and hung up in the air by a chain* 
 This practice among the Colchians is referred to a religious cause. 
 The principal objects of their worship were the earth and the 
 air ; and it is supposed that, in consequence of some superstitious 
 notion, they devoted their dead to both. Whether the natives 
 of Otaheite had any notion of the same kind, we were never able 
 certainly to determine ; but we soon discovered, that the reposi- 
 tories of their dead were also places of worship. 
 
 Upon this occasion it may be observed, that nothing can be 
 
First Voyage, 51 
 
 more absurd than the notion that the happiness or misery of a 
 future life depends, in any degree, upon the disposition of the 
 body when the state of probation is past ; yet that nothing is 
 more general than a solicitude about it. However cheap we may 
 hold any funeral rites which custom has not familiarised, or 
 superstition rendered sacred, most men gravely deliberate how 
 to prevent their body from being broken by the mattock and de- 
 voured by the worm, when it is no longer capable of sensation ; 
 and purchase a place for it in holy ground, when they believe 
 the lot of its future existence to be irrevocably determined. So 
 strong is the association of pleasing, or painful ideas with certain 
 opinions and actions which affect us while we live, that we in- 
 voluntarily act as if it was equally certain that they would affect 
 us in the same manner when we are dead, though this is an 
 opinion that nobody will maintain. Thus it happens, that the 
 desire of preserving from reproach even the name that we leave 
 behind us, or of procuring it honour, is one of the most powerful 
 principles of action, among the inhabitants of the most specula- 
 tive and enlightened nations. Posthumous reputation, upon 
 every principle, must be acknowledged to have no influence 
 upon the dead ; yet the desire of obtaining and securing it, no 
 force of reason, no habits of thinking, can subdue, except in 
 those whom habitual baseness and guilt have rendered indifferent 
 to honour and shame while they lived. This, indeed, seems to 
 be among the happy imperfections of our nature, upon which 
 the general good of society in a certain measure depends ; for as 
 some crimes are supposed to be prevented by hanging the body 
 of the criminal in chains after he is dead, so in consequence of 
 the same association of ideas, much good is procured to society, 
 and much evil prevented, by a desire of preventing disgrace or 
 
52 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 procuring lionour to a name, when nothing but a name re- 
 mains. 
 
 Perhaps no better use can be made of reading an account of 
 manners altogether new, by which the follies and absurdities of 
 mankind are taken out of that particular connection in which 
 habit has reconciled them to us, than to consider in how many in- 
 stances they are essentially the same. When an honest devotee 
 of the church of Eome reads, that there are Indians on the banks 
 of the Ganges who believe that they shall secure the happiness 
 of a future state by dying with a cow's tail in their hands, he 
 laughs at their folly and superstition ; and if these Indians were 
 to be told, that there are people upon the continent of Europe, 
 who imagine that they shall derive the same advantage from 
 dying with the slipper of St. Francis upon their foot, they would 
 laugh in their turn. But if, when the Indian heard the account 
 of the Catholic, and the Catholic that of the Indian, each was to 
 reflect, that there was no difference between the absurdity of the 
 slipper and of the tail, but that the veil of prejudice and custom, 
 which covered it in their own case, was withdrawn in the other, 
 they would turn their knowledge to a profitable purpose. 
 
 On Monday the 26th of June, I set out in the pinnace, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island, with a 
 view to sketch out the coast and harbours. At the district called 
 Paparra, which belonged to our friends Oamo and Oberea, we 
 walked out to a point, upon which we had seen, at a distance, 
 trees that ate here called Etoa, which generally distinguish the 
 places where these people bury the bones of their dead. Their 
 name for such burying-grounds, which are also places of worship, 
 is Moral We were soon struck with the sight of an enormous 
 pile, which we were told was the morai of Oamo and Oberea, and 
 
First Voyage. 53 
 
 the principal piece of Indian architecture in the island. It was 
 a pile of stone-work, raised pyramidically npon an oblong base, 
 or square, two hundred and sixty-seven feet long, and eighty- 
 seven wide. It was built like the small pyramidal mounts upon 
 which we sometimes fix the pillar of a sun-dial, where each side 
 is a flight of steps ; the steps, however, at the sides, were broader 
 than those at the ends, so that it terminated not in a square ol 
 the same figure with the base, but in a ridge, like the roof of a 
 house. There were eleven of these steps, each of which was four 
 feet high, so that the height of the pile was forty-four feet : each 
 step was formed of one course of white coral stone, which was 
 neatly squared and polished ; the rest of the mass, for there was 
 no hollow within, consisted of round pebbles, which, from the 
 regularity of their figure, seemed to have been wrought. Some 
 of the coral stones were very large ; we measured one of them, 
 and found it three feet and a half by two feet and a half. The 
 foundation was of rock stones, which were also squared ; and 
 one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet four. 
 Such a structure, raised without the assistance of iron tools to 
 shape the stones, or mortar to join them, struck us with astonish- 
 ment : it seemed to be as compact and firm as it could have been 
 made by any workman in Europe, except that the steps, which 
 range along its greatest length, are not perfectly straight, but 
 sink in a kind of hollow in the middle, so that the whole surface, 
 from end to end, is not a right line, but a curve. On Saturday 
 July the 1st, we got back to our fort at Matavai, having found 
 the circuit of the island, including both peninsulas, to be about 
 thirty leagues. 
 
 Mr. Banks employed himself in planting a great quantity of 
 the seeds of water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants 
 
54 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 and trees which he had collected at Eio de Janeiro. For these 
 he prepared ground on each side of the fort, with as many varieties 
 of soil as he could choose. He also gave liberally of these seeds 
 to the Indians, and planted many of them in the woods : some 
 of the melon seeds having been planted soon after our arrival, 
 the natives shewed him several of the plants, which appeared to 
 be in the most flourishing condition, and were continually asking 
 him for more. 
 
 Among the natives who were almost constantly with us was 
 Tupia, whose name has been often mentioned in this narrative. 
 He had been the first minister of Oberea,when she was in the height 
 of her power ; he was also the chief Tahowa or priest of the island, 
 consequently well acquainted with the religion of the country, 
 as weU with respect to its ceremonies as principles. He had 
 also great experience and knowledge in navigation, and was 
 particularly acquainted with the number and situation of the 
 neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a desire to 
 go with us, and he now came on board, with a boy about thirteen 
 years of age, his servant, and urged us to let him proceed with 
 us on our voyage. To have such a person on board was certainly 
 desirable, for many reasons ; by learning his language, and 
 teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better 
 knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, 
 than our short stay among them could give us ; I therefore 
 gladly agreed to receive them on board. As we were prevented 
 from sailing to-day, by having found it necessary to make new 
 stocks to our small and best bower anchors, the old ones having 
 been totally destroyed by the worms, Tupia said he would go 
 once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fetch him 
 off in the evening. He went accordingly, and took with him a 
 
First Voyage. 55 
 
 miniature picture of Mr. Banks, to show his friends, and several 
 little things to give them as parting presents. 
 
 On the morning of Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was 
 very early crowded with our friends, and surrounded by a multi- 
 tude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of an inferior 
 class. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as 
 soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their 
 leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there 
 was something very striking and tender : the people in the 
 canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the 
 loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as 
 affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene 
 with a firmness and resolution truly admirable : he wept, 
 indeed, but the effort that he made to conceal his tears con- 
 curred with them to do him honour. He sent his last 
 present, a shirt, to Potomai, and then went with Mr. Banks to 
 the mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued 
 in sight. 
 
 Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a 
 stay of just three months ; for much the greater part of the time 
 we lived together in the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual 
 reciprocation of good offices. The accidental differences which 
 now and then happened could not be more sincerely regretted 
 on their part than they were on ours : the principal causes were 
 such as necessarily resulted from our situation and circumstances, 
 in conjunction with the infirmities of human nature, from our 
 not being able perfectly to understand each other, and from the 
 disposition of the inhabitants to theft, which we could not at all 
 times bear with or prevent. They had not, however, except in 
 one instance, been attended \Yith any fatal consequence ; and to 
 
56 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 that accident were owing the measures that I took to prevent 
 others of the same kind. 
 
 The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, 
 of thirteen sorts, the best we had ever eaten ; plantains ; a fruit 
 not unlike an apple, which, when ripe, is very pleasant ; sweet 
 potatoes, yams, cocoas ; a fruit known here by the name of 
 Janibu, and reckoned most delicious ; sugar-cane, which the in- 
 habitants eat raw; a fruit that grows in a pod, like that of a 
 large kidney-bean, which, when it is roasted, eats very much like 
 a chestnut, by the natives called ^Aee; a tree called Wharra, 
 called in the East Indies Pandanes, which produces fruit some- 
 thing like the pine-apple ; a shrub called Nono ; a species of 
 fern, of which the root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves ; but 
 the fruits of the Nono, the fern, and the Theve, are eaten only 
 by the inferior people, and in times of scarcity. AH these, which 
 serve the inhabitants for food, the earth produces spontaneously, 
 or with so little culture, that they seem to be exempted from the 
 first general curse, that " man should eat his bread in the sweat 
 of his face." 
 
 Of tame animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry ; 
 neither is there a wild animal in the island, except ducks, 
 pigeons, paroquets, with a few other birds, and rats, there being 
 no other quadruped, nor any serpent. But the sea supplies them 
 with great variety of most excellent fish, to eat which is their 
 chief luxury, and to catch it their principal labour. 
 
 As to the people they are of the largest size of Europeans. 
 The men are tall, strong, well-limbed, and finely shaped. The 
 tallest that we saw was a man upon a neighbouring island, called 
 Huaheine, who measured six feet three inches and a half. The 
 women of the superior rank are also in general above our middle 
 
First Voyage, 57 
 
 stature, but those of the inferior class are rather below it, and 
 some of them are very small. Their natural complexion is that 
 kind of clear olive, or hrunette, which many people in Europe 
 prefer to the finest white and red. In those that are exposed to 
 the wind and sun, it is considerably deepened, but in others that 
 live under shelter, especially the superior class of women, it con- 
 tinues of its native hue, and the skin is most delicately smooth 
 and soft : they have no tint in their cheeks which we distinguish 
 by the name of colour. The shape of the face is comely, the 
 cheek-bones are not high, neither are the eyes hollow, nor the 
 brow prominent : the only feature that does not correspond with 
 our ideas of beauty is the nose, which, in general, is somewhat 
 flat ; but their eyes, especially those of the women, are full of 
 expression, sometimes sparkling with fire, and sometimes melting 
 with softness ; their teeth also are, almost without exception, 
 most beautifully even and white, and their breath perfectly 
 without taint. 
 
 In their dispositions, also, they seemed to be brave, open, 
 and candid, without either suspicion or treachery, cruelty or 
 revenge ; so that we placed the same confidence in them as in 
 .our best friends, many of us, particularly Mr. Banks, sleepiog 
 frequently in their houses in the woods, without a companion, 
 and consequently wholly in their power. They were, however, 
 all thieves ; and when that is allowed, they need not much fear 
 a competition with the people of any other nation upon earth. 
 
 They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the 
 same manner as is practised in many other parts of the world, 
 which they call Tattowing. They prick the skin, so as just not 
 to fetch blood, with a small instrument, something in the form 
 of a hoe. The operation is painful, and it is some days before 
 
5 8 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 the wounds are healed. It is performed upon the youth of both 
 sexes when they are about twelve or fourteen years of age, on 
 several parts of the body, and in various figures, according to the 
 fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of the party. 
 
 The houses, or rather dwellings, of these people have been 
 occasionally mentioned before : they are all built in the wood 
 between the sea and the mountains, and no more ground is 
 cleared for each house than just sufi&cient to prevent the drop- 
 ping of the branches from rotting the thatch with which they 
 are covered ; from the house, therefore, the inhabitant steps im- 
 mediately under the shade, which is the most delightful that 
 can be imagined. It consists of groves of bread-fruit and cocoa- 
 nuts, without underwood, which are intersected in all directions 
 by the paths that lead from one house to the other. Nothing 
 can be more grateful than this shade in so warm a climate, nor 
 anything more beautiful than these walks. As there is no 
 underwood, the shade cools without impeding the air ; and the 
 houses, having no walls, receive the gale from whatever point it 
 blows. 
 
 Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already 
 as serving them for food, the principal is the bread-fruit, to pro- 
 cure which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree : 
 the tree which produces it does not indeed shoot up sponta- 
 neously ; but if a man plants ten of them in his lifetime, which 
 he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil his 
 duty to his own and future generations as the natives of our less 
 temperate climate can do by ploughing in the cold of winter, 
 and reaping in the summer's heat, as often as these seasons 
 return; even if, after he has procured bread for his present 
 household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it 
 
First Voyage, 55 
 
 up for his children. It is true, indeed, that the bread-fruit is 
 not always in season ; but cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and a 
 great variety of other fruits supply the deficiency. 
 
 It may well be supposed that cookery is but little studied 
 by these people as an art ; and indeed they have but two ways 
 of applying fire to dress their food, — broiling and baking. Of 
 the bread-fruit they also make three dishes, by putting either 
 water or the milk of the cocoa-nut to it, then beating it to a 
 paste with a stone pestle, and afterwards mixing it with ripe 
 plantains, bananas, or the sour paste which they call Mahie. 
 
 Salt-water is the imiversal sauce, no meal being eaten with- 
 out it : those who live near the sea have it fetched as it is 
 wanted ; those who live at some distance keep it in large bam- 
 boos, which are set up in their houses for use. They make 
 another of the kernels of cocoa-nuts, which being fermented till 
 they dissolve into a paste somewhat resembling butter, are 
 beaten up with salt-water. The flavour of this is very strong, 
 and was, when we first tasted it, exceedingly nauseous. 
 
 For drink, they have in general nothing but water, or the 
 juice of the cocoa-nut ; the art of producing liquors that intoxi- 
 cate by fermentation, being happily unknown among them ; 
 neither have they any narcotic which they chew, as the natives 
 of some other countries do opium, betel-root, and tobacco. 
 Some of them drank freely of our liquors, and in a few instances 
 became very drunk; but the persons to whom this happened 
 were so far from desiring to repeat the debauch, that they would 
 never touch any of our liquors afterwards. We were, however, 
 informed, that they became drunk by drinking a juice that is 
 expressed from the leaves of a plant which they call Ava Ava. 
 This plant was not in season when we were there, so that we 
 
6o Cook's Voyages, 
 
 saw no instances of its effects ; and as they considered drunken- 
 ness as a disgrace, they probably would have concealed from ns 
 any instances which might have happened during our stay. 
 This vice is almost peculiar to the chiefs and considerable 
 persons, who vie with each other in drinking the greatest 
 number of draughts, each draught being about a pint. They 
 keep this intoxicating juice with great care from their women. 
 
 Table they have none ; but their apparatus for eating is set 
 out with great neatness, though the articles are too simple and 
 too few to allow anything for show ; and they commonly eat 
 alone ; but when a stranger happens to visit them he sometimes 
 makes a second in their mess. Of the meal of one of their 
 principal people I shall give a particular description. He sits 
 down under the shade of the next tree, or on the shady side of 
 his house, and a large quantity of leaves, either of the bread- 
 fruit or banana, are neatly spread before him upon the ground 
 as a table-cloth ; a basket is then set by him that contains his 
 provision, which, if fish or flesh, is ready dressed, and wrapped 
 up in leaves, and two cocoa-nut shells, one full of salt water 
 and the other of fresh : his attendants, who are not few, seat 
 themselves round him, and when all is ready he begins by 
 washing his hands and his mouth thoroughly with the fresh 
 water, and this he repeats almost continually throughout the 
 whole meal; he then takes part of his provision out of the 
 basket, which generally consists of a small fish or two, two or 
 three bread-fruits, fourteen or fifteen ripe bananas, or six or 
 seven apples ; he first takes half a bread-fruit, peels off the rind, 
 and takes out the core with his nails ; of this he puts as much 
 into his mouth as it can hold, and while h6 chews it takes the 
 fish out of the leaves, and breaks one of them into the salt 
 
First Voyage, 6i 
 
 water, placing the other, and what remains of the bread-fruit, 
 upon the leaves that have been spread before him. When this 
 is done, he takes up a small piece of the fish that has been 
 broken into the salt water with all the fingers of one hand, and 
 sucks it into his mouth, so as to get with it as much of the salt 
 water as possible : in the same manner he takes the rest by 
 different morsels, and between each, at least very frequently, 
 takes a small sup of the salt water either out of the cocoa-nut 
 shell or the palm of his hand : in the meantime one of his 
 attendants has prepared a young cocoa-nut, by pealing off the 
 outer rind with his teeth, an operation which to a European 
 appears very surprising ; but it depends so much upon sleight 
 that many of us were able to do it before we left the island, 
 and some that could scarcely crack a filbert : the master, when 
 he chooses to drink, takes the cocoa-nut thus prepared, and 
 boring a hole through the shell with his finger, or breaking it 
 with a stone, he sucks out the liquor. When he has eaten his 
 bread-fruit and fish he begins with his plantains, one of which 
 makes but a mouthful, though it be as big as a black-pudding ; 
 if, instead of plantains, he has apples, he never tastes them till 
 they have been pared ; to do this a shell is picked up from the 
 ground, where they are always in plenty, and tossed to him by 
 an attendant : he immediately begins to cut or scrape off the 
 rind, but so awkwardly that great part of the fruit is wasted. 
 If, instead of fish, he has flesh, he must have some succedaneum 
 for a knife to divide it ; and for this purpose a piece of bamboo 
 is tossed to him, of which he makes the necessary implement by 
 splitting it transversely with his nail. While all this has been 
 doing, some of his attendants have been employed in beating 
 bread-fruit with a stone pestle upon a block of wood ; by being 
 
62 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 beaten in this manner, and sprinkled from time to time with 
 water, it is reduced to the consistence of a soft paste, and is then 
 put into a vessel somewhat like a butcher's tray, and either 
 made up alone, or mixed with banana or mahie, according to 
 the taste of the master, by pouring water upon it by degrees and 
 squeezing it often through the hand : under this operation it 
 acquires the consistence of a thick custard, and a large cocoa- 
 nut shell full of it being set before him, he sips it as we should 
 do a jelly if we had no spoon to take it from the glass : the 
 meal is then finished by again washing his hands and his mouth. 
 After which the cocoa-nut shells are cleaned, and everything 
 that is left is replaced in the basket. 
 
 The quantity of food which these people eat at a meal is 
 prodigious : I have seen one man devour two or three fishes as 
 big as a perch ; three bread-fruits, each bigger than two fists ; 
 fourteen or fifteen plantains or bananas, each of them six or 
 seven inches long, and four or five round ; and near a quart of 
 the pounded bread-fruit, which is as substantial as the thickest 
 unbaked custard. This is so extraordinary that I scarcely expect 
 to be believed ; and I would not have related it upon my own 
 single testimony ; but Mr. Banks, ©r. Solander, and most of the 
 other gentlemen, have had ocular demonstration of its truth, and 
 know that I mentioned them upon the occasion. 
 
 Tt is very wonderful that these people, who are remarkably 
 fond of society, and particularly that of their women, should 
 exclude its pleasures from the table, where, among all other 
 nations, whether civil or savage, they have been principally 
 enjoyed. How a meal, which everywhere else brings families 
 and friends together, came to separate them here, we often 
 inquired, but could never learn. They ate alone, they said. 
 
First Voyage, 6 
 
 o 
 
 because it was right ; but why it was right to eat alone they 
 never attempted to tell us : such, however, was the force of habit, 
 that they expressed the strongest dislike, and even disgust, at 
 our eating In society, especially with our women, and of the same 
 victuals. At first, we thought this strange singularity arose from 
 some superstitious opinion ; but they constantly affirmed the 
 contrary. We observed also some caprices in the custom, for 
 which we could as little account as for the custom itself. We 
 could never prevail with any of the women to partake of the 
 victuals at our table when we were dining in company ; yet they 
 would go, five or six together, into the servants' apartments, and 
 there eat very heartily of whatever they could find ; nor were they 
 in the least disconcerted if we came in while they were doing it. 
 When any of us have been alone with a woman, she has some- 
 times eaten in our company ; but then she has expressed the 
 greatest unwillingness that it should be known, and always 
 extorted the strongest promises of secrecy. 
 
 Among themselves even two brothers and two sisters have 
 each their separate baskets with provision and the apparatus of 
 their meal. 
 
 But I must not conclude my account of the domestic life of 
 these people without mentioning their personal cleanliness. If 
 that which lessens the good of life and increases the evil is vice, 
 surely cleanliness is a virtue : th^ want of it tends to destroy both 
 beauty and health, and mingles disgUvSt with our best pleasures. 
 
 After parting with our friends, we made an easy sail, with 
 gentle breezes and clear weather, for four of the neighbouring 
 islands, which Tupia distinguished by the names of Huaheine, 
 Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola (Borabora). 
 
 While we were about these, we expended very little of the 
 
64 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 ship's provisions, and were very plentifully supplied with hogs, 
 fowls, plantains, and yams, which we hoped would have been of 
 great use to us in our course to the southward; but the hogs 
 would not eat European grain of any kind, pulse, or bread-dust, 
 so that we could not preserve them alive ; and the fowls were 
 all very soon seized with a disease that affected the head so, 
 that they continued to hold it down between their legs till they 
 died : much dependence, therefore, must not be placed in live 
 stock taken on board at these places, at least not till a discovery 
 is made of some food that the hogs will eat, and some remedy 
 for the disease of the poultry. Having been necessarily detained 
 at Ulietea so long, by the carpenters, in stopping our leak, we 
 determined to give up our design of going on shore at Bolabola, 
 especially as it appeared to be difficult of access. 
 
 To these islands, as they lie contiguous to each other, I gave 
 the names of Society Islands, but did not think it proper to 
 distinguish them separately by any other names than those by 
 which they were known to the natives. They are situated 
 between the latitude of 16° 10' and 16° 55' S., and between the 
 longitude of 150° 57' and 152° W. from the meridian of Green- 
 wich. 
 
First Voyage, 65 
 
 CHAPTER IT. 
 
 New Zealand, 
 
 We sailed from the Society Islands on the 15th of August 1769, 
 and on Friday the 25th we celebrated the anniversary of our 
 leaving England, by taking a Cheshire cheese from a locker, 
 where it had been carefully treasured up for this occasion, and 
 tapping a cask of porter, which proved to be very good, and in 
 excellent order. 
 
 On the 1st of September, being in the latitude of 40° 22' S., 
 and longitude 147° 29' W., and there not being any signs of 
 land, with a heavy sea from the westward, and strong gales, I 
 wore, and stood back to the northward, fearing that we might 
 receive such damage in our sails and rigging, as would hinder 
 the prosecution of the voyage. On the next day, there being 
 strong gales to the westward, I brought to, with the ship's head 
 to the northward ; but in the morning of the 3d, the wind being 
 more moderate, we loosened the reef of the mainsail, set the top- 
 sails, and plied to the westward. 
 
 On the 24th, being in latitude 83° 18', longitude 162° 51', we 
 observed a small piece of sea-weed, and a piece of wood covered 
 with barnacles. On the 27th, we saw a seal asleep upon the 
 wa*ter, and several bunches of sea-weed. The next day we saw 
 more sea-weed in bunches, and on the 29 th, a bird, which we 
 thought a land bird ; it somewhat resembled a snipe, but had a 
 
 F 
 
66 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 short bill. On the 1st of October we saw birds innumerable, 
 and another seal asleep upon the water ; it is a general opinion, 
 that seals never go out of soundings, or far from land, but those 
 that we saw in these seas prove the contrary. Eock-weed is, 
 however, a certain indication that land is not far distant. The 
 next day, it being calm, we hoisted out the boat, to try whether 
 there was a current, but found none. Our latitude was 37° 10', 
 longitude 172° 54' W. On the 3d, being in latitude 36° 56', 
 longitude 173° 27', we took up more sea-weed, and another piece 
 of wood covered with barnacles. The next day, we saw two 
 more seals, and a brown bird, about as big as a raven, with some 
 white feathers under the wing. Mr. Gore told us that birds of 
 this kind were seen in great numbers about Falkland's Islands, 
 and our people gave them the name of Port Egmont hens. 
 
 On the 5th, we thought the water changed colour, but, upon 
 casting the lead, had no ground with one hundred and eighty 
 fathom. In the evening of this day, the variation was 1 2° 50' E., 
 and, while we were going nine leagues, it increased to 14° 2'. 
 On the next day, Friday, October the 6th, we saw land from the 
 mast-head, bearing W. by N"., and stood directly for it ; in the 
 evening, it could just be discerned from the deck, and appeared 
 large. The variation this day was, by azimuth and amplitude, 
 15° 4|-' E., and \rj observation made of the sun and moon, the 
 longitude of the ship appeared to be 180° 55' W., and by the 
 medium of this and subsequent observations, there appeared to 
 be an error in the ship's account of longitude during her run from 
 Otaheite of 3° 16', she being so much to the westward of the lon- 
 gitude resulting from the log. At midnight, I brought to and 
 sounded, but had no ground with one hundred and seventy fathom. 
 
 On the 7th it fell calm, we therefore approached the land 
 
First Voyage. 67 
 
 slowly, and in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up, we were 
 still distant seven or eight leagues. It appeared still larger as it 
 was more distinctly seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising 
 one over the other, and a chain of mountains above all, which 
 appeared to be of an enormous height. This land became the 
 subject of much eager conversation ; but the general opinion 
 seemed to be that we had found 
 
 THE TEREA AUSTRALIS INCOGNITA. 
 
 About five o'clock, we saw the opening of a bay, which seemed 
 to run pretty far inland, upon which we hauled our wind and 
 stood in for it : we also saw smoke ascending from different 
 places on shore. When night came on, however, we kept plying 
 off and on till day-light, when we found ourselves to the leeward 
 of the bay, the wind being at north : we could now perceive 
 that the hills were clothed with wood, and that some of the 
 trees in the valleys were very large. By noon we fetched in with 
 the south-west point; but not being able to weather it, tacked 
 and stood off : at this time we saw several canoes standing across 
 the bay, which, in a little time, made to shore, without seeming 
 to take the least notice of the ship ; we also saw some houses, 
 w^hich appeared to be small, but neat ; and near one of them a 
 considerable number of the people collected together, who were 
 sitting upon the beach, and who, we thought, were the same that 
 we had seen in the canoes. Upon a small peninsula, at the 
 north-east head, we could plainly perceive a pretty high and 
 regular paling, which enclosed the whole top of a hill ; this was 
 also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a 
 park of deer, others an enclosure for oxen and sheep. About four 
 o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored on the north-west side of 
 
6S Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the bay, before the. entrance of a small river, in ten fathom water, 
 with a fine sandy bottom, and at about half a league from the 
 shore. The sides of the bay are white cliffs of a great height ; 
 the middle is low land, with hills gradually rising behind, one 
 towering above another, and terminating in the chain of moun- 
 tains which appeared to be far inland. 
 
 In the evening I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks 
 and Dr. Solander, with the pinnace and yawl, and a party of men. 
 We landed abreast of the ship, on the east side of the river, which 
 was here about forty yards broad ; but seeing some natives on 
 the west side whom I wished to speak with, and finding the river 
 not fordable, I ordered the yawl in to carry us over, and left the 
 pinnace at the entrance. When we came near the place where 
 the people were assembled, they all ran away; however, we 
 landed, and leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, we walked 
 up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards 
 from the water-side. When we had got some distance from the 
 boat, four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, 
 and running up to attack the boat, would certainly have cut her 
 off, if the people in the pinnace had not discovered them, and 
 called to the boys to drop down the stream : the boys instantly 
 obeyed, but being closely pursued by the Indians, the cockswain 
 of the pinnace, who had the charge of the boats, fired a musket 
 over their heads ; at this they stopped and looked round them, 
 but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their 
 lances in a threatening manner: the cockswain then fired a 
 second musket over their heads, but of this they took no notice ; 
 and one of them lifting up his spear to dart it at the boat, 
 another piece was fired, which shot him dead. WTien he fell, the 
 other three stood motionless for some minutes, as if petrified 
 
First Voyage, 69 
 
 with astonishment ; as soon as they recovered, they went back, 
 dragging after them the dead body, which, however, they soon 
 left, that it might not encumber their flight. At the report of 
 the first musket, we drew together, having straggled to a little 
 distance from each other, and made the best of our way back to the 
 boat ; and crossing the river, we soon saw the Indian lying dead 
 upon the ground. Upon examining the body, we found that he 
 had been shot through the heart : he was a man of the middle 
 size and stature ; his complexion was brown, but not very dark, 
 and one side of his face was tatooed in spiral lines of a very 
 regular figure : he was covered with a fine cloth, of a manufacture 
 altogether new to us, and it was tied on exactly according to the 
 representation in Valentyn's Account of Abel Tasman's Voyage, 
 vol. iii., part 2, page 50 : his hair also was tied in a knot on the 
 top of his head, but had no feather in it. We returned immedi- 
 ately to the ship, where we could hear the people on shore talk- 
 ing with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone, probably 
 about what had happened, and what should be done. 
 
 In the morning, we saw several of the natives where they had 
 been seen the night before, and some walking with a quick pace 
 towards the place where we had landed, most of them unarmed ; 
 but three or four with long pikes in their hands. As I was de- 
 sirous to establish an intercourse with them, I ordered three 
 boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and proceeded 
 towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the 
 other gentlemen, and Tupia ; about fifty of them seemed to wait 
 for our landing, on the opposite side of the river, which we thought 
 a sign of fear, and seated themselves upon the ground : at first, 
 therefore, myself, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, 
 landed from the little boat, and advanced towards them ; but we 
 
JO Cook's Voyages. 
 
 had not proceeded many paces before they all started up, and 
 every man produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of 
 green talc, extremely well polished, about a foot long, and thick 
 enough to weigh four or five pounds : Tupia called to them in 
 the language of Otaheite ; but they answered only by flourishing 
 their weapons, and making signs to us to depart ; a musket was 
 then fired wide of them, and the ball struck the water, the river 
 being still between us ; they saw the effect, and desisted from 
 their threats : but we thought it prudent to retreat till the 
 marines could be landed. This was soon done ; and they 
 marched, with a jack carried before them, to a little bank, about 
 fifty yards from the water-side ; here they were drawn up, and I 
 again advanced with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ; Tupia, Mr. 
 Green, and Mr. Monkhouse, being with us. Tupia was again 
 directed to speak to them, and it was with great pleasure that 
 we perceived he was perfectly understood, he and the natives 
 speaking only difiPerent dialects of the same language. He told 
 them that we wanted provision and water, and would give them 
 iron in exchange, the properties of which he explained as well as 
 he was able. They were willing to trade, and desired that we 
 would come over to them for that purpose : to this we consented, 
 provided that they would lay by their arms ; which, however, 
 they could by no means be persuaded to do. During this con- 
 versation Tupia warned us to be upon our guard, for that they 
 were not our friends : we then pressed them in our turn to come 
 over to us ; and at last one of them stripped himself, and swam 
 over without his arms : he was almost immediately followed by 
 two more, and soon after by most of the rest, to the number of 
 twenty or thirty ; but these brought their arms with them. We 
 made them all presents of iron and beads ; but they seemed to 
 
First Voyage, 71 
 
 set little value upon either, particularly the iron, not having the 
 least idea of its use ; so that we got nothing in return but a few 
 feathers : they offered, indeed, to exchange their arms for ours, 
 and when we refused, made many attempts to snatch them out 
 of our hands. As soon as they came over, Tupia repeated his 
 declaration, that they were not our friends, and again warned us 
 to be upon our guard ; their attempts to snatch our weapons, 
 therefore, did not succeed ; and we gave them to understand by 
 Tupia, that we should be obliged to kill them if they offered any 
 farther violence. In a few minutes, however, Mr. Green hap- 
 pening to turn about, one of them snatched away his hanger, and 
 retiring to a little distance, waved it round his head, with a shout 
 of exultation : the rest now began to be extremely insolent, and 
 we saw more coming to join them from the opposite side of the 
 river. It was therefore become necessary to repress them, and 
 Mr. Banks fired at the man who had taken the hanger, with 
 small shot, at the distance of about fifteen yards : when the shot 
 struck him, he ceased his cry; but instead of returning the 
 hanger, continued to flourish it over his head, at the same time 
 slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr. Monkhouse seeing 
 this, fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. Upon 
 this the main body, who had retired to a rock in the middle of 
 the river upon the first discharge, began to return ; two that 
 were near to the man who had been killed, ran up to the body, 
 one seized his weapon of green talc, and the other endeavoured 
 to secure the hanger, which Mr. Monkhouse had but just time to 
 prevent. As all that had retired to the rock were now advanc- 
 ing, three of us discharged our pieces, loaded only with small 
 shot, upon which they swam back for the shore ; and we per- 
 ceived, upon their landing, that two or three of them were 
 
72 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 wounded. They retired slowly up the country, and we re- 
 embarked in our boats. 
 
 As we had unhappily experienced, that nothing was to be 
 done with these people at this place ; and finding the water in 
 the river to be salt, I proceeded in the boats round the head of 
 the bay in search of fresh water, and with a design, if possible, 
 to surprise some of the natives, and take them on board, where, 
 by kind treatment and presents, I might obtain their friendship, 
 and by their means establish an amicable correspondence with 
 their countrymen. 
 
 To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a 
 dangerous surf everywhere beating upon the shore ; but I saw 
 two canoes coming in from the sea, one under sail, and the other 
 worked with paddles. I thought this a favourable opportunity 
 to get some of the people into my possession without mischief, 
 as those in the canoe were probably fishermen, and without arms, 
 and I had three boats full of men. I therefore disposed the 
 boats so as most effectually to intercept them in their way to 
 the shore ; the people in the canoe that was paddled perceived 
 us so soon, that, by making to the nearest land with their utmost 
 strength, they escaped us ; the other sailed on till she was in 
 the midst of us without discerning what we were ; but the 
 moment she discovered us, the people on board struck their sail, 
 and took to their paddles, which they plied so briskly that she 
 out-ran the boat. They were, however, within hearing, and 
 Tupia called out to them to come alongside, and promised for us 
 that they should come to no hurt : they chose, however, rather 
 to trust to their paddles than our promises, and continued to 
 make from us with all their power. I then ordered a musket to 
 be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to 
 
First Voyage. 'J2> 
 
 accomplish my design, hoping it would either make them sur- 
 render, or leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, 
 they ceased paddling ; and all of them, being seven in number, 
 began to strip, as we imagined, to jump overboard ; but it hap- 
 pened otherwise. They immediately formed a resolution not to 
 fly, but to fight ; and when the boat came up, they began the 
 attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offen- 
 sive weapons that were in the boat, so vigorously that we were 
 obliged to fire upon them in our own defence ; four were un- 
 happily killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest 
 about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped 
 into the water ; the eldest swam with great vigour, and resisted the 
 attempts of our people to take him into the boat by every effort 
 that he could make : he was, however, at last overpowered, and 
 the other two were taken up with less difficulty. I am conscious 
 that the feeling of every reader of humanity will censure me for 
 having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is impossible 
 that, upon a calm review, I should approve it myself They 
 certainly did not deserve death for not choosing to confide in my 
 promises ; or not consenting to come on board my boat, even if 
 they had apprehended no danger ; but the nature of my service 
 required me to obtain a knowledge of their country, which I 
 could lio otherwise effect than by forcing my way into it in a 
 hostile manner, or gaining admission through the confidence and 
 good-will of the people. I had already tried the power of pre- 
 sents without effect ; and I was now prompted, by my desire to 
 avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only 
 method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, 
 and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and 
 convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not crimi- 
 
74 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 nal ; and though in the contest, which I had not the least reason 
 to expect, our victory might have been complete without so great 
 an expense of life ; yet in such situations, when the command 
 to fire has been given, no man can restrain its excess, or prescribe 
 its effect. 
 
 As soon as the poor wretches whom we had taken out of the 
 water were in the boat, they squatted down, expecting no doubt 
 instantly to be put to death ; we made haste to convince them 
 of the contrary, by every method in our power ; we furnished 
 them with clothes, and gave them every other testimony of kind- 
 ness that could remove their fears and engage their good-will. 
 Those who are acquainted with human nature will not wonder 
 that the sudden joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly 
 delivered from the fear of death, and kindly treated by those 
 whom they supposed would have been their instant executioners, 
 surmounted their concern for the friends they had lost, and was 
 strongly expressed in their countenances and behaviour. Before 
 we reached the ship, their suspicions and fears being wholly 
 removed, they appeared to be not only reconciled to their 
 situation, but in high spirits, and upon being offered some bread 
 when they came on board, they devoured it with a voracious 
 appetite. They answered and asked many questions with great 
 appearance of pleasure and curiosity ; and when our dinnei came 
 they expressed an inclination to taste everything that they saw ; 
 they seemed best pleased with the salt pork, though we had other 
 provisions upon the table. At sunset they ate another meal 
 with great eagerness, each devouring a large quantity of bread, 
 and drinking above a quart of water. We then made them beds 
 upon the lockers, and they went to sleep with great seeming con- 
 tent. In the night, however, the tumult of their minds having 
 
First Voyage. 75 
 
 subsided, and given way to reflection, they sighed often and 
 loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to comfort them, 
 got up, and by soothing and encouragement made them not only 
 easy but cheerful; their cheerfulness was encouraged so that 
 they sung a song with a degree of taste that surprised us : the 
 tune was solemn and slow, like those of our Psalms, containing 
 many notes and semitones. Their countenances were intelligent 
 and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be about 
 fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease in his deport- 
 ment, which were very striking : we found that the two eldest 
 were brothers, and that their names were Taahourange and 
 Koikerange ; the name of the youngest was Maragovete. As we 
 were returning to the ship, after having taken these boys into 
 the boat, we picked up a large piece of pumice-stone floating 
 upon the water ; a sure sign that there either is, or has been, a 
 volcano in this neighbourhood. 
 
 In the morning they all seemed to be cheerful, and ate 
 another enormous meal ; after this we dressed them, and adorned 
 them with bracelets, anklets, and necklaces, after their own 
 fashion, and the boat being hoisted out, they were told that we 
 were going to set them ashore ; this produced a transport of joy ; 
 but upon perceiving that we made towards our first landing-plaf'e 
 near the river, their countenances changed, and they entreated 
 with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore at that 
 place, because they said it was inhabited by their enemies, who 
 would kill them and eat them. This was a great disappoint- 
 ment to me, because I hoped the report and appearance of the 
 boys would procure a favourable reception for ourselves. I had 
 already sent an officer on shore with the marines and a party of 
 men to cut wood, and I was determined to land near the place ; 
 
76 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 not, however, to abandon the boys, if, when we got on shore, 
 they should be unwilling to leave us ; but to send a boat with 
 them in the evening to that part of the bay to which they 
 pointed, and which they called their home. Mr. Banks, Dr. 
 Solander, and Tupia, were with me, and upon our landing with 
 the boys, and crossing the river, they seemed at first to be un- 
 willing to leave us ; but at length they suddenly changed their 
 mind, and, though not without a manifest struggle and some 
 tears, they took their leave ; when they were gone we proceeded 
 along a swamp, with a design to shoot some ducks, of which we 
 saw great plenty, and four of the marines attended us, walking 
 abreast of us upon a bank that overlooked the country. After 
 we had advanced about a mile, these men called out to us and 
 told us that a large body of the Indians was in sight, and ad- 
 vancing at a great rate. Upon receiving this intelligence we 
 drew together, and resolved to make the best of our way to the 
 boats ; we had scarcely begun to put this into execution, when 
 the three Indian boys started suddenly from some bushes, where 
 they had concealed themselves, and again claimed our protec- 
 tion; we readily received them, and repairing to the beach as 
 the clearest place, we walked briskly towards the boats. The 
 Indians were in two bodies ; one ran along the bank which had 
 been quitted by the marines, the other fetched a compass by the 
 swamp, so that we could not see them : when they perceived 
 that we had formed into one body they slackened their pace, 
 but still followed us in a gentle walk ; that they slackened their 
 pace, was for us, as well as for them, a fortunate circumstance ; 
 for when we came to the side of the river, where we expected to 
 find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we 
 found the pinnace at least a mile from her station, having been 
 
First Voyage. 77 
 
 sent to pick up a bird wliich had been shot by the officer on 
 shore, and the little boat was obliged to make three trips before 
 we could all get over to the rest of the party. As soon as we 
 were drawn up on the other side, the Indians came down, not in 
 a body as we expected, but by two or three at a time, all armed, 
 and in a short time their number increased to about two hun- 
 dred : as we now despaired of making peace with them, seeing 
 that the dread of our small arms did not keep them at a distance, 
 and that the ship was too far off to reach the place with a shot, 
 we resolved to re-embark, lest our stay should embroil us in 
 another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. We, 
 therefore, advanced towards the pinnace, which was now return- 
 ing, when one of the boys suddenly cried out that his uncle was 
 among the people who had marched down to us, and desired us 
 to stay and talk with them ; we complied, and a parley imme- 
 diately commenced between them and Tupia, during which the 
 boys held up everything we had given them as tokens of our 
 kindness and liberality ; but neither would either of the boys 
 swim over to them, or any of them to the boys. The body of 
 the man who had been killed the day before stiU lay exposed 
 upon the beach; the boys seeing it lie very near us, went up to 
 it, and covered it with some of the clothes that we had given 
 them ; and soon after a single man, unarmed, who proved to be 
 the uncle of Maragovete, the youngest of the boys, swam over to 
 us, bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as 
 well here as at Otaheite, to be an emblem of peace. We received 
 his branch by the hands of Tupia, to whom he gave it, and made 
 him many presents ; we also invited him to go on board the ship, 
 but he declined it ; we therefore left him, and expected that his 
 nephew and the two other young Indians would have stayed with 
 
yS Cook's Voyages. 
 
 him, but to our great surprise, they chose rather to go with us. 
 As soon as we had retired he went and gathered another green 
 branch, and with this in his hand, he approached the dead body 
 which the youth had covered with part of his clothes, walking 
 sideways, with many ceremonies, and then throwing it towards 
 him. When this was done, he returned to his companions, who 
 had sat down upon the sand to observe the issue of his negotia- 
 tion : they immediately gathered round him, and continued in a 
 body above an hour, without seeming to take any farther notice 
 of us. "We were more curious than they, and observing them 
 with our glasses from on board the ship, we saw some of them 
 cross the river upon a kind of raft, or catamarine, and four of 
 them carry off the dead body which had been covered by the 
 boy, and over which his uncle had performed the ceremony oif 
 the branch, upon a kind of bier, between four men ; the other 
 body was still suffered to remain where it had been first left. 
 
 After dinner I directed Tupia to ask the boys if they had 
 now any objection to going ashore where we had left their uncle, 
 the body having been carried off, which we understood was a 
 ratification of peace ; they said they had not ; and the boat being 
 ordered, they went into it with great alacrity : when the boat, in 
 which I had sent two midshipmen, came to land, they went 
 willingly ashore ; but soon after she put off they returned to the 
 rocks, and wading into the water, earnestly entreated to be taken 
 on board again; but the people in the boat having positive 
 orders to leave them could not comply. We were very attentive 
 to what happened on shore, and keeping a constant watch with 
 our glasses, we saw a man pass the river upon another raft, and 
 fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives were 
 assembled, who closed round them, and continued in the same 
 
First Voyage, 79 
 
 place till sunset : upon looking again, when we saw them in 
 motion, we could plainly distinguish our three prisoners, who 
 separated themselves from the rest, came down to the beach, and 
 having waved their hands three times towards the ship, ran 
 nimbly back and joined their companions, who walked leisurely 
 away towards that part which the boys had pointed to as their 
 dwelling-place ; we had therefore the greatest reason to believe 
 that no mischief would happen to them, especially as we per- 
 ceived that they went off in the clothes we had given them. 
 
 After it was dark loud voices were heard on shore in the 
 bottom of the bay as usual, of which we could never learn the 
 meaning. The next morning, at six o'clock, we weighed, and 
 stood away from this unfortunate and inhospitable place, to 
 which I gave the name of 
 
 PovEKTY Bay. 
 
 When these people had recovered from the first impressions 
 of fear, which, notwithstanding their resolution in coming on 
 board, had manifestly thrown them into some confusion, we in- 
 quired after our poor boys. The man who first came on board 
 immediately answered, that they were unhurt, and at home ; 
 adding, that they had been induced to venture on board by the 
 account which they had given him of the kindness with which 
 they had been treated, and the wonders which were contained in 
 the ship. While they were on board they shewed every sign of 
 friendship, and invited us very cordially to go back to our old 
 bay, or to a small cove which they pointed out, that was not 
 quite so far off ; but I chose rather to prosecute my discoveries 
 than go back, having reason to hope that I should find a better 
 harbour than any I had yet seen. 
 
8o Cook's Voyages. 
 
 About an hour before sun-set, the canoes put o£f from the 
 ship with the few paddles they had reserved, which were scarcely 
 sufficient to set them on shore ; but, by some means or other, 
 three of their people were left behind. As soon as we discovered 
 it, we hailed them, but not one of them would return to take 
 them on board. This greatly surprised us ; but we were sur- 
 prised still more to observe that the deserted Indians did not 
 seem at all uneasy at their situation, but entertained us with 
 dancing and singing after their manner, ate their suppers, and 
 went quietly to bed. 
 
 A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered 
 along the shore under an easy sail till midnight, and then brought 
 to ; soon after which it fell calm. We were now some leagues 
 distant from the place where the canoes had left us ; and at day- 
 break, when the Indians perceived it, they were seized with con- 
 sternation and terror, and lamented their situation in loud 
 complaints, with gestures of despair, and many tears. Tupia, 
 with great difficulty, pacified them ; and about seven o'clock in 
 the morning, a light breeze springing up, we continued to stand 
 south-west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians, 
 two canoes came off about this time, and made towards the ship ; 
 they stopped, however, at a little distance, and seemed unwilling 
 to trust themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly agitated 
 in this state of uncertainty, and urged their fellows to come 
 alongside of the ship, both by their voice and gestures, with the 
 utmost eagerness and impatience. Tupia interpreted what they 
 said, and we were much surprised to find that, among other argu- 
 ments, they assured the people in the canoes, that 
 
 We did not eat men. 
 
First Voyage. 8i 
 
 We now began seriously to believe that this horrid custom pre- 
 vailed among them ; for what the boys had said we considered 
 as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear. An old man 
 came on board, who seemed to be a chief, from the finery of his 
 garment and the superiority of his weapon, which was a Patoo- 
 patoo made of bone that, as he said, had belonged to a whale. He 
 stayed on board but a short time ; and when he went away, he 
 took with him our guests, very much to the satisfaction both of 
 them and us. 
 
 At the time when we sailed, we were abreast of a point from 
 which the land trends S.S.W., and which, on account of its figure, 
 I called Cape Table ; and a small island, which was the south- 
 ernmost land in sight, I named the Island of Portland, from its 
 very great resemblance to Portland, in the English Channel. 
 
 Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N.W., 
 having a gentle breeze at N.E., which about five o'clock died 
 away, and obliged us to anchor. 
 
 About five o'clock in the morning of the 13th October, a 
 breeze springing up northerly, we weighed, and steered in for the 
 land. The shore here forms a large bay, of which Portland is the 
 north-east point, and the bay, that runs behind Cape Table, an 
 arm. This arm I had a great inclination to examine. 
 
 Being abreast of the point, several fishing boats came oft' to 
 us, and sold us some stinking fish ; it was the best they had, 
 and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms ; these 
 people behaved very well, and we should have parted good 
 friends if it had not been for a large canoe, with two-and-twenty 
 armed men on board, which came boldly up alongside of the 
 ship. We soon saw that this boat had nothing for traffic, yet 
 we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, an article which they 
 
82 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 seemed very fond of. I observed that one man had a black skin 
 thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, and being 
 desirous to know what animal was its first owner, I offered him 
 for it a piece of red baize, and he seemed greatly pleased with the 
 bargain, immediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in 
 the boat ; he would not, however, part with it till he had the 
 cloth in his possession, and as there could be no transfer of pro- 
 perty, if with equal caution I had insisted upon the same condi- 
 tion, I ordered the cloth to be handed down to him, upon which, 
 with amazing coolness, instead of sending up the skin, he began 
 to pack up both that and the baize, which he had received as the 
 purchase of it, in a basket, without paying the least regard to my 
 demand or remonstrances, and soon after, with the fishing-boats, 
 put off from the ship ; when they were at some distance, they 
 drew together, and after a short consultation returned ; the fisher- 
 men offered more fish, which, though good for nothing, was 
 purchased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who 
 were placed over the ship's side to hand up what we bought, was 
 little Tayeto, Tupia's boy ; and one of the Indians, watching his 
 opportunity, suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into 
 the canoe ; two of them held him down in the forepart of it, and 
 the others, with great activity, paddled her off, the rest of the 
 canoes following as fast as they could ; upon this the marines, 
 who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to fire. The shot 
 was directed to that part of the canoe which was farthest from 
 the boy, and rather wide of her, being willing rather to miss the 
 rowers than to hurt him ; it happened, however, that one man 
 dropped, upon which the others quitted their hold of the boy, 
 who instantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship ; 
 the large canoe immediately pulled round and followed him, but 
 
Effect of a little consternation at Kidnapper's Cape, p. 83. 
 
First Voyage. Z^y 
 
 some muskets and a great gun being fired at her, she desisted 
 from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was 
 lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though so terrified, 
 that for a time he seemed to be deprived of his senses. 
 
 To the cape ofi" which this unhappy transaction happened, I 
 gave the name of 
 
 Cape Kidnappers. 
 
 It lies in latitude 39° 43', and longitude 182° 24' W., and is 
 rendered remarkable by two white rocks like haystacks, and the 
 high white cliffs on each side. It lies S.W. by W. distant 
 thirteen leagues from the isle of Portland ; and between them 
 is the bay of which it is the south point, and which, in honour 
 of Sir Edward Hawke, then First Lord of the Admiralty, I 
 called Hawke's Bay. 
 
 As soon as Tayeto recovered from his fright, he brought a 
 fish to Tupia, and told him that he intended it as an offering to 
 his Eatua, or god, in gratitude for his escape ; Tupia commended 
 his piety, and ordered him to throw the fish into the sea, which 
 was accordingly done.* 
 
 I passed a remarkable headland, which I called Gable-End- 
 Eoreland, from the very great likeness of the white cliff at the 
 point to the gable-end of a house : it is not more remarkable for 
 its figure, than for a rock which rises like a spire at a little distance. 
 
 I made sail in shore, in order to look into two bays, which 
 appeared about two leagues to the northward of the Foreland ; 
 
 * How true are Pope's beautiful lines in the opening of his "Universal 
 Prayer," — 
 
 " Father of all ! in every age, 
 In every clime adored, 
 By saint, by savage, and by sage, 
 Jehovah, Jove, or Lord ! " 
 
84 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 the southernmost I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other 
 about eleven o'clock. Into this bay, which is called by the 
 natives Tolago, we were invited by the people on board many 
 canoes, who pointed to a place where they said there was plenty* 
 of fresh water : I did not find so good a shelter from the sea as 
 I expected ; but the natives who came about us, appearing to be 
 of a friendly disposition, I was determined to try whether I 
 could not get some knowledge of the country here before I 
 proceeded farther to the northward. 
 
 On landing we were received with great expressions of 
 friendship by the natives, who behaved wdth a scrupulous 
 attention not to give offence. In particular, they took care not 
 to appear in great bodies : one family, or the inhabitants of two 
 or three houses only, were generally placed together, to the 
 number of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, and 
 ?hildren. These little companies sat upon the ground, not ad- 
 vancing towards us, but inviting us to them, by a kind of 
 beckon, moving one hand towards the breast. We made them 
 several little presents ; and in our walk round the bay found 
 two small streams of fresh water. This convenience, and the 
 friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to stay at least 
 a day, that I might fill some of my empty casks, and give Mr. 
 Banks an opportunity of examining the natural produce of the 
 country. 
 
 These fair appearances encouraged Mr. Banks and Dr. 
 Solander to range the bay with very little precaution, where 
 they found many plants, and shot some birds of exquisite 
 beauty. In their walk, they visited several houses of the 
 natives, and saw something of their manner of life ; for they 
 shewed, without any reserve, everything which they desired to 
 
First Voyage. 85 
 
 see. They were sometimes found at their meals, which the ap- 
 proach of the strangers never interrupted. Their food at this 
 season consisted of fish, with which, instead of bread, they eat 
 the root of a kind of fern, very like that which grows upon our 
 commons in England. These roots they scorch over the fire, and 
 then beat with a stick, till the bark and dry outside fall off ; 
 what remains is a soft substance, somewhat clammy and sweet, 
 not unpleasing to the taste, but mixed with three or four times 
 its quantity of strings and fibres, which are very disagreeable ; 
 these were swallowed by some, but spit out by the far greater 
 number, who had baskets under them to receive the rejected 
 part of what had been chewed, which had an appearance very 
 like that of tobacco in the same state. 
 
 The women were plain, and made themselves more so 
 by painting their faces with red ochre and oil, which, being 
 generally fresh and wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, was 
 easily transferred to the noses of those who thought fit to salute 
 them ; and that they were not wholly averse to such familiarity, 
 the noses of several of our people strongly testified. In personal 
 delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, for the 
 coldness of the climate did not invite them so often to bathe ; 
 but we saw among them one instance of cleanliness in which 
 they exceeded them, and of which, perhaps, there is no example 
 in any other Indian nation. Every house, or every little cluster 
 of three or four houses, was furnished with a privy, so that the 
 ground was everywhere clean. The offals of their food, and 
 other litter, were also piled up in regular dunghills, which 
 probably they made use of at a proper time for manure. 
 
 In this decent article of civil economy they were beforehand 
 with one of the most considerable nations of Europe ; for I am 
 
86 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 credibly informed, that, till tlie year 1760, there was no such 
 thing as a privy in Madrid, the metropolis of Spain, though it is 
 plentifully supplied with water. Before that time it was the 
 universal practice to throw the ordure out of the windows, 
 during the night, into the street, where numbers of men were 
 employed to remove it, with shovels, from the upper parts of the 
 city to the lower, where it lay till it was dry, and was then 
 carried away in carts, and deposited without the gates. His 
 present Catholic Majesty, having determined to free his capital 
 from so gross a nuisance, ordered, by proclamation, that the pro- 
 prietors of every house should build a privy, and that sinks, 
 drains, and common sewers should be made at the public ex- 
 pense. The Spaniards, though long accustomed to an arbitrary 
 government, resented this proclamation with great spirit, as an 
 infringement of the common rights of mankind, and made a 
 vigorous struggle against its being carried into execution. 
 Every class devised some objection against it, but the physicians 
 bid the fairest to interest the king in the preservation of the 
 ancient privileges of his people ; for they remonstrated, that if 
 the filth was not, as usual, thrown into the streets, a fatal sick- 
 ness would probably ensue, because the putrescent particles of 
 the air, which such filth attracted, would then be imbibed by the 
 human body. But this expedient, with every other that could 
 be thought of, proved unsuccessful ; and the popular discon- 
 tent then ran so high, that it was very near producing an insur- 
 rection; his majesty, however, at length prevailed, and Madrid 
 is now as clean as most of the considerable cities in Europe. 
 
 On Monday the 30th October, having made sail again to the 
 northward for about ten hours, with a light breeze, I hauled 
 round a small island which lay east one mile from the north-east 
 
First Voyage, 87 
 
 point of the land ; from tliis place I found the land trend away 
 N.W. by W. and W.KW. as far as I could see. This point being 
 the easternmost land on the whole coast, I gave it the name of 
 East Cape, and I called the island that lies off it East Island ; it 
 is of a small circuit, high and round, and appears white and 
 barren. At six in the evening, being four leagues to the west- 
 ward of East Cape, we passed a bay which was first discovered 
 by Lieutenant Hicks, and which, therefore, I called Hicks's Bay. 
 At eight in the evening, being eight leagues to the westward of 
 the Cape, and three or four miles from the shore, I shortened sail 
 and brought to for the night, having at this time a fresh gale at 
 S.S.E. and squally ; but it soon became moderate, and at two in 
 the morning we made sail again to the S.W. as the land now 
 trended ; and at eight o'clock in the morning saw land, which 
 made like an island, bearing west, the south-westernmost part of 
 the main bearing south-west ; and about nine no less than five 
 canoes came ofi", in which were more than forty men, all armed 
 with their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting, and threaten- 
 ing an attack ; this gave us great uneasiness, and was, indeed, 
 what we did not expect, for we hoped that the report both of our 
 power and clemency had spread to a greater extent. When one 
 of these canoes had almost reached the ship, another of an im- 
 mense size, the largest we had yet seen, crowded with people, 
 who were also armed, put off from the shore, and came up at a 
 great rate ; as it approached it received signals from the canoe 
 that was nearest to the ship, and we could see that it had sixteen 
 paddles on a side, beside people that sat, and others that stood in 
 a row from stem to stern, being in all about sixty men : as they 
 made directly to the ship, we were desirous of preventing an 
 attack, by showing what we could do, and, therefore, fired a gun, 
 
88 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 loaded with grape-shot, a-head of them : this made them stop, 
 but not retreat ; a round-shot was then fired over them, and upon 
 seeing it fall they seized their paddles and made towards the 
 shore with such precipitation that they seemed scarcely to allow 
 themselves time to breathe. In the evening three or four more 
 canoes came off unarmed, but they would not venture within a 
 musket-shot of the vessel. The cape off which we had been 
 threatened with hostilities I called, from the hasty retreat of the 
 enemy, Cape Eunaway. 
 
 On the 1st of November we saw a large opening or inlet, for 
 which we bore up ; we had now forty-one fathom water, which 
 gradually decreased to nine, at which time we were one mile 
 and a half distant from a high towered rock which lay near the 
 south point of the inlet : this rock and the northernmost of the 
 Court of Aldermen being in one, bearing S. 61 E. 
 
 We anchored in seven fathom, a little within the south en- 
 trance of the bay : to this place we were accompanied by several 
 canoes and people like those we had seen last, and for some time 
 they behaved very civilly. While they were hovering about us, 
 a bird was shot from the ship as it was swimming upon the 
 water ; at this they shewed less surprise than we expected, and 
 taking up the bird, they tied it to a fishing line that was towing 
 astern ; as an acknowledgment for this favour, we gave them a 
 piece of cloth ; but notwithstanding this effect of our fire-arms, 
 and this interchange of civilities, as soon as it grew dark, they 
 sung their war-song, and attempted to tow away the buoy of the 
 anchor. Two or three muskets were then fired over them, but 
 this seemed rather to make them angrj^ than afraid, and they 
 went away, threatening that to-morrow they would return with 
 more force, and be the death of us all ; at the same time sending 
 
First Voyage. 89 
 
 off a boat, which they told us was going to another part of the 
 bay for assistance. 
 
 As I intended to continue in this place five or six days, in 
 order to make an observation of the transit of Mercury, it was 
 absolutely necessary, in order to prevent future mischief, to shew 
 these people that we were not to be treated ill with impunity ; 
 some small shot were fired at the canoe of a thief, and a musket- 
 ball through the bottom of his boat ; upon this it was paddled 
 to about a hundred yards' distance, and to our great surprise the 
 people in the other canoes took not the least notice of their 
 wounded companion, though he bled very much, but returned to 
 the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect indiffer- 
 ence and unconcern. They sold us many more of their weapons, 
 without making any other attempt to defraud us for a consider- 
 able time ; at last, however, one of them thought fit to paddle 
 away with two different pieces of cloth which had been given for 
 the same weapon : when he had got about a hundred yards' dis- 
 tance, and thought himself secure of his prize, a musket was fired 
 after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at the water's 
 edge, and made two holes in her side ; this only incited them to 
 ply their paddles wdth greater activity, and the rest of the canoes 
 also made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of 
 our superiority, therefore, we fired a round shot over them, and 
 not a boat stopped till they got on shore. 
 
 On the 9th, after an early breakfast, I went ashore, with Mr. 
 Green and proper instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury, 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander being of the party ; the weather had 
 for some time been very thick, with much rain, but this day was so 
 favourable that not a cloud intervened during the whole transit. 
 The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone. 
 
90 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 while I was employed in taking the sun's altitude to ascertain 
 the time. It came on at "7*^ 20' 68" apparent time : according to 
 Mr. Green's observation, the internal contact was at 12^ 8' 58", 
 the external at 12^ 9' 55" P.M. And according to mine, the 
 internal contact was at 12^ 8' 54", and the external 12^ 9' 48"; 
 the latitude of the place of observation was 36° 48' 5-J-". The 
 latitude observed at noon was 36° 48' 28". The mean of this 
 and yesterday's observation gives 36° 48' h\" S. the latitude of 
 the place of observation. 
 
 Mercury Bay. 
 
 On the 15th I sailed out of the bay, to which I gave the 
 name of Mercury Bay, on account of the observation which we 
 had made there of the transit of that planet over the sun. 
 Passing Point Mercury, two canoes, in which there might be 
 about sixty men, came near enough to make themselves heard, 
 they sung their war-song ; but seeing that we took little notice 
 of it, they threw a few stones at us, and then rowed off towards 
 the shore. We hoped that we had now done with them, but in 
 a short time they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to pro- 
 voke us into a battle, animating themselves by their song as 
 they had done before. Tupia, without any directions from us, 
 went to the poop, and began to expostulate : he told them, that 
 we had weapons which would destroy them in a moment ; and 
 that, if they ventured to attack us, we should be obliged to use 
 them. Upon this, they flourished their weapons, and cried out 
 in their language — 
 
 " Come on shore, and we will kill you all !" 
 
 On the 29th, I bore up for a bay which lies to the westward 
 of Cape Bret. The natives, to the number of near four hundred, 
 
First Voyage, 97 
 
 crowded upon us in tlieir canoes, and some of them were 
 admitted on board : to one, who seemed to be a chief, I gave a 
 piece of broad-cloth, and distributed some trifling presents 
 among the rest. I perceived that some of these people had 
 been about the ship when she was off at sea, and that they 
 knew the power of our fire-arms, for the very sight of a gun 
 threw them into manifest confusion. We observed that the 
 canoes which were about the ship did not follow us upon our 
 leaving her, which we thought a good sign ; but we had no 
 sooner landed than they crowded to different parts of the 
 island and came on shore. We were in a little cove, and in a 
 few minutes were surrounded by two or three hundred people, 
 some rushing from behind the heads of the cove, and others 
 appearing on the tops of the hills : they were all armed, but 
 they came on in so confused and straggling a manner that we 
 scarcely suspected they meant us any harm, and we were deter- 
 mined that hostilities should not begin on our part. We 
 marched towards them, and then drew a line upon the sand 
 between them and us, which we gave them to understand they 
 were not to pass. At first they continued quiet, but their 
 weapons were held ready to strike, and they seemed to be ra^thei 
 irresolute than peaceable. While we remained in this state of 
 suspense, another party of Indians came up, and now growing 
 more bold as their number increased, they began the dance and 
 song, which are their preludes to a battle ; still, however, they 
 delayed the attack, but a party ran to each of our boats, and 
 attempted to draw them on shore : this seemed to be the signal, 
 for the people about us at the same time began to press in upon 
 our line. Our situation was now become too critical for us to 
 remain longer inactive ; I therefore discharged my musket, which 
 
92 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 was loaded with small-shot, at one of the forwardest, and Mr. 
 Banks and two of the men fired immediately afterwards. This 
 made them fall back in some confusion ; but one of the chiefs, 
 who was at the distance of about twenty yards, rallied them, 
 and running forward, waving his patoo-patoo, and calling loudly 
 to his companions, led them to the charge. Dr. Solander, whose 
 piece was not yet discharged, fired at this champion, who 
 stopped short upon feeling the shot, and then ran away with the 
 rest ; they did not, however, disperse, but got together upon a 
 rising ground, and seemed only to want some leader of resolu- 
 tion to renew their attack. As they were now beyond the reach 
 of small-shot, we fired with ball ; but as none of the shots took 
 effect, they continued in a body, and in this situation we remained 
 about a quarter of an hour. In the meantime the ship, from 
 whence a much greater number of Indians were seen than could 
 be discovered in our situation, brought her broadside to bear, 
 and entirely dispersed them by firing a few shot over their heads. 
 In this skirmish only two of the Indians were hurt with the 
 small-shot, and not a single life was lost, which would not have 
 been the case if I had not restrained the men, who, either from fear 
 or the love of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy 
 them as a sportsman to kill his game. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning of the 5th of December, we 
 weighed, with a light breeze ; but it being variable, with frequent 
 calms, we made little way. We kept turning out of the bay till 
 the afternoon, and about ten o'clock we were suddenly becalmed, 
 so that the ship would neither wear nor stay ; and the tide or 
 current setting strong, she drove towards land so fast that, before 
 any measures could be taken for her security, she was within a 
 cable's length of the breakers. We had thirteen fathom water. 
 
First Voyage. 9J 
 
 but the ground was so foul that we did not dare to drop our 
 anchor ; the pinnace, therefore, was immediately hoisted out to 
 take the ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, ex- 
 erting themselves to the utmost, and a faint breeze springing up 
 off the land, we perceived, with unspeakable joy, that she made 
 head-way, after having been so near the shore that Tupia, who 
 was not sensible of our hair's-breadth escape, was at this very 
 time conversing with the people upon the beach, whose voices 
 were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of the breakers. 
 We now thought all danger was over, but about an hour after- 
 wards, just as the man in the chains had cried "seventeeen 
 fathom," the ship struck. The shock threw us all into the utmost 
 consternation ; Mr. Banks, who had undressed himself, and was 
 stepping into bed, ran hastily up to the deck, and the man in 
 the chains called out "five fathom;" by this time, the rock on 
 which we had struck being to windward, the ship went off with- 
 out having received the least damage, and the water very soon 
 deepened to twenty fathom. 
 
 This bay I named the Bay of Islands, from the great number 
 of islands which line its shores, and from several harbours 
 equally safe and commodious, where there is room and depth for 
 any number of shipping. 
 
 About the middle of January 1770, 1 stood for an inlet which 
 runs in S.W. ; and got within the entrance which may be known 
 by a reef of rocks, stretching from the north-west point, and some 
 rocky islands which lie off the south-east point. At nine o'clock, 
 there being little wind, and wh'kt there was being variable, we 
 were carried by the tide or current within two cables' length of 
 the north-west shore, where we had fifty-four fathom water, but 
 by the help of our boats we got clear. Just at this time we saw 
 
94 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 a sea-lion rise twice near the shore, the head of which exactly 
 resembled that of the male which has been described in the 
 Account of Lord Anson's Voyage. We also saw some of the 
 natives in a canoe cross the bay, and a village situated upon the 
 point of an island which lies seven or eight miles within the 
 entrance. 
 
 I went in the pinnace with Banks, Solander, Tupia, and some 
 others, into a cove, about two miles distant from that in which 
 the ship lay ; in our way we saw something floating upon the 
 water, which we took for a dead seal, but upon rowing up to it, 
 found it to be the body of a woman, which, to all appearance, 
 had been dead some days. We proceeded to our cove, where we 
 went on shore, and found a small family of Indians, who appeared 
 to be greatly terrified at our approach, and all ran away except 
 one. A conversation between this person and Tupia soon brought 
 back the rest, except an old man and a child, who still kept aloof, 
 but stood peeping at us from the woods. Of these people, our 
 curiosity naturally led us to inquire after the body of the woman, 
 which we had seen floating upon the water ; and they acquainted 
 us, by Tupia, that she was a relation, who had died a natural 
 death ; and that, according to their custom, they had tied a stone 
 to the body, and thrown it into the sea, which stone, they sup- 
 posed, had by some accident been disengaged. 
 
 HoERORS OF Cannibalism. 
 
 This family, when we came on shore, was employed in 
 dressing some provisions ; the "Body of a dog was at this time 
 buried in their oven, and many provision-baskets stood near it. 
 Having cast our eyes carelessly into one of these, as we passed 
 it, we saw two bones pretty cleanly picked, which did not seem 
 
First Voyage. 95 
 
 to be the bones of a dog, and whicb, upon a nearer examination, 
 we discovered to be those of a human body. At this sight we 
 were struck with horror, though it was only a confirmation of 
 what we had heard many times since we arrived upon this coast. 
 As we could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither 
 could we have any doubt but that the flesh which covered them 
 had been eaten. They were found in a provision-basket ; the flesh 
 that remained appeared manifestly to have been dressed by fire ; 
 and in the gristles at the end were the marks of the teeth which 
 had gnawed them ; to put an end, however, to conjecture, 
 founded upon circumstances and appearances, we directed Tupia 
 to ask what bones they were ; and the Indians, without the 
 least hesitation, answered, the bones of a man ; they were then 
 asked what had become of the flesh, and they replied that they 
 had eaten it. But, said Tupia, why did you not eat the body 
 of the woman which we saw floating upon the water? The 
 woman, said they, died of disease ; besides, she was our relation, 
 and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who are killed in 
 battle. Upon inquiry who the man was whose bones we had 
 found, they told us, that about five days before, a boat belonging 
 to their enemies came into the bay, with many persons on board, 
 and that this man was of the seven whom they had killed. 
 Though stronger evidence of this horrid practice prevailing 
 among the inhabitants of this coast will scarcely be required, 
 we have still stronger to give. One of us asked if they had any 
 human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their 
 answering us that all had been 'eaten, we affected to disbelieve 
 that the bones were human, and said that they were the bones 
 of a dog ; upon which one of the Indians, with some eagerness, 
 took hold of his own fore-arm, and thrusting it towards us, said. 
 
96 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 that the bone which Mr. Banks held in his hand had belonged 
 to that part of the human body ; at the same time, to convince 
 us that the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of his own arm 
 with his teeth, and made show of eating ; he also bit and gnawed 
 the bone which Mr. Banks had taken, drawing it through his 
 mouth, and showing, by signs, that it had afforded a delicious 
 repast ; the bone was then returned to Mr. Banks, and he brought 
 it away with him. Among the persons of this family, there was 
 a woman who had her arms, legs, and thighs, frightfully cut in 
 several places ; and we were told that she had inflicted the wounds 
 upon herself, in token of her grief for the loss of her husband, 
 who had been lately killed and eaten by their enemies, who had 
 come from some place to the eastward, towards which the 
 Indians pointed. 
 
 The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter 
 of a mile from the shore, and in the morning we were awakened 
 by the singing of the birds : the number was incredible, and 
 they seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. 
 This wild melody was infinitely superior to any that we had ever 
 heard of the same kind ; it seemed to be like small beUs, most 
 exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance, and the water be- 
 tween, might be no small advantage to the sound. Upon in- 
 quiry, we were informed that the birds here always began to sing 
 about two hours after midnight, and continuing their music till 
 sunrise, were, like our nightingales, silent the rest of the day 
 In the forenoon, a small canoe came off from the Indian village 
 to the ship, and among those that were in it was the old man 
 who had first come on board at our arrival in the bay. As soon 
 as it came alongside, Tupia renewed the conversation that had 
 passed the day before concerning their practice of eating human 
 
First Voyage, 97 
 
 flesh, during winch they repeated what they had told us already. 
 But, said Tupia, where are the heads ? do you eat them too ? Of 
 the heads, said the old man, we eat only the brains, and the next 
 time I come I will bring some of them to convince you that 
 what we have told you is truth. After some further conversation 
 between these people and Tupia, they told him that they expected 
 their enemies to come very shortly to revenge the death of the 
 seven men whom they had killed and eaten. 
 
 The 23d I employed in carrying on a survey of the place ; 
 and upon one of the islands where I landed, I saw many houses 
 which seemed to have been long deserted, and no appearance of 
 any inhabitant. On the 24th, we went to visit friends at the 
 Hippah or village on the point of the island near the ship's 
 station, who had come off to us on our first arrival in the bay. 
 They received us with the utmost confidence and civility, 
 showing us every part of their habitations, which were commo- 
 dious and neat. The island or rock on which this town is 
 situated is divided from the main by a breach or fissure, so 
 narrow that a man might almost leap from one to the other : 
 the sides of it are everywhere so steep as to render the artificial 
 fortification of these people almost unnecessary ; there was, how- 
 ever, one slight palisade, and one small fighting-stage, towards 
 that part of the rock where access was least difiQcult. 
 
 The people here brought us out several human bones, the 
 flesh of which they had eaten, and offered them for sale ; for the 
 curiosity of those among us, who had purchased them as memo- 
 rials of the horrid practice which many, notwithstanding the 
 reports of travellers, have professed not to believe, had rendered 
 them a kind of article of trade. In one part of this village we 
 observed, not without some surprise, a cross exactly like that of 
 
 u 
 
98 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 a crucifix ; it was adorned with feathers, and, upon our inquiring 
 for what purpose it had been set up, we were told that it was a 
 monument for a man who was dead. We had before understood 
 that their dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea ; but to 
 our inquiry how the body of the man had been disposed of, to 
 whose memory this cross had been erected, they refused to answer. 
 
 Taking Possession of New Zealand. 
 
 The carpenter having prepared two posts to be left as memo- 
 rials of our having visited this place, 1 ordered them to be in- 
 scribed with the ship's name, and the year and month : one of 
 them I set up at the watering-place, hoisting the Union flag upon 
 the top of it ; and the other I carried over to the island that lies 
 nearest to the sea, called by the natives Motuara. I went first 
 to the village or hippah, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and 
 Tupia, where I met with our old man, and told him and several 
 others, by means of Tupia, that we were come to set up a mark 
 upon the island, in order to show to any other ship which should 
 happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this 
 they readily consented, and promised that they never would pull 
 it down : I then gave something to every one present ; and to 
 the old man I gave a silver threepence, dated 1736, and some 
 spike-nails, with the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them ; 
 things which I thought most likely to remain long among them : 
 I then took the post to the highest part of the island, and after 
 fixing it firmly in the ground, I hoisted upon it the Union flag, 
 and honoured this inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound ; at the same time taking formal possession of this and 
 the adjacent country in the name and for the use of his Majesty 
 King George the Third. We then drank a bottle of wine to 
 
First Voyage. 99 
 
 her Majesty's health, and gave the bottle to the old man who 
 attended us up the hill, and who was mightily delighted with 
 his present. 
 
 New Zealand was first discovered by Abel Jansen Tasman, a 
 Dutch navigator, on the 13th of December, in the year 1642. 
 He traversed the eastern coast from latitude 34° to 43°, and en- 
 tered the strait which divides the two islands, and in the chart 
 is called Cook's Strait; but, being attacked by the natives soon 
 after he came to an anchor, in the place to which he gave the 
 name of Murderer's Bay, he never went on shore. He gave the 
 country the name of Staaten Land, or the land of the States, in 
 honour of the states-general, and it is now generally distin- 
 guished in our maps and charts by the name of New Zealand. 
 As the whole of this country, except that part of the coast which 
 was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, has from his time, 
 to the voyage of the " Endeavour," remained altogether unknown, 
 it has. by many been supposed to be part of a southern continent. 
 It is, however, now known to consist of two large islands, 
 divided from each other by a strait or passage, which is about 
 four or five leagues broad. 
 
 Among the vegetable productions of this country, the trees 
 claim a principal place; for here are forests of vast extent, full 
 of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largest timber trees that 
 we had ever seen : their size, their grain, and apparent durability, 
 render them fit for any kind of building, and indeed for every other 
 purpose except masts, for which they are too hard and too heavy. 
 
 But among all the trees, shrubs, and plants of this country, 
 there is not one that produces fruit, except a berry, which has 
 neither sweetness nor flavour, and which none but the boys took 
 pains to gather, should be honoured with that appellation. 
 
I GO Cook's Voyages. 
 
 There is, however, a plant (the New Zealand flax) that serves 
 the inhabitants instead of hemp and flax, which excels all that 
 are put to the same purposes in other countries. Of the leaves, 
 with very little preparation, they make all their common ap- 
 parel ; and of these they make also their strings, lines, and cord- 
 age for every purpose, which are so much stronger than anything 
 we can make with hemp, that they will not bear a comparison. 
 From the same plant, by another preparation, they draw long 
 slender fibres which shine like silk, and are as white as snow : 
 of these, which are also surprisingly strong, the finer clothes are 
 made ; and of the leaves, without any other preparation than 
 splitting them into proper breadths, and tying the strips to- 
 gether, they make their fishing-nets ; some of which, as I have 
 before remarked, are of an enormous size. A plant which, with 
 such advantage, might be applied to so many useful and important 
 purposes, would certainly be a great acquisition to England. 
 
 If the settling of this country should ever be thought an 
 object worthy the attention of Great Britain, the best place for 
 establishing a colony would be either on the banks of the 
 Thames, or in the country bordering upon the Bay of Islands. 
 In either place there would be the advantage of an excellent 
 harbour ; and, by means of the river, settlements might be ex- 
 tended, and a communication established with the inland parts 
 of the country : vessels might be built of the fine timber which 
 abounds in these parts, at very little trouble and expense, fit for 
 such a navigation as would answer the purpose. 
 
 The stature of the men in general is equal to the largest of 
 those in Europe : they are stout, well-limbed, and fleshy ; but 
 not fat, like the lazy and luxurious inhabitants of the islands in 
 the South Seas : they are also exceedingly vigorous and active : 
 
First Voyage, loi 
 
 and have an adroitness and manual dexterity in an uncommon 
 degree, which are discovered in whatever they do. I have seen 
 the strokes of fifteen paddles on a side in one of their canoes 
 made with incredible quickness, and yet with such minute exact- 
 ness of time, that all the rowers seemed to be actuated by one 
 common soul. The dispositions both of the men and women 
 seemed to be mild and gentle : they treat each other with the 
 tenderest affection, but are implacable towards their enemies, to 
 whom they never give quarter. It may, perhaps, at first seem 
 strange, that where there is so little to be got by victory, there 
 should so often be war; and that every little district of a 
 country inhabited by people so mild and placid, should be at 
 enmity with all the rest. But possibly more is to be gained by 
 victory among these people than at first appears, and they may 
 be prompted to mutual hostilities by motives which no degree of 
 friendship or affection is able to resist. Their principal food is 
 fish, which can only be procured upon the sea-coast ; and there 
 in sufficient quantities only at certain times : the tribes, there- 
 fore, who live inland, if any such there are, and even those upon 
 the coast, must be frequently in danger of perishing by famine. 
 Their country produces neither sheep nor goats, nor hogs, nor 
 cattle : tame fowls they have none, nor any art by which those 
 that are wild can be caught in sufficient plenty to serve as pro- 
 vision. If there are any whose situation cuts them off from a 
 supply of fish, the only succedaneum of all other animal food, 
 except dogs, they have nothing to support life but the vegetables 
 that have already been mentioned, of which the chief are fern- 
 root, yams, clams, and potatoes ; when by any accident these 
 fail, the distress must be dreadful ; and even among the inhabi- 
 tants of the coast, many tribes must frequently be reduced to 
 
I02 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 nearly the same situation, either by the failure of their planta- 
 tions, or the deficiency of their dry stock, during the season 
 when but few fish are to be caught. These considerations will 
 enable us to account, not only for the perpetual danger in which 
 the people who inhabit this country appear to live, by the care 
 which they take to fortify every village, but for the horrid prac- 
 tice of eating those who are killed in battle ; for the hunger of 
 him who is pressed by famine to fight will absorb every feeling 
 and every sentiment which would restrain him from allaying it 
 with the body of his adversary. It may, however, be remarked, 
 that if this account of the origin of so horrid a practice is true, 
 the mischief does by no means end with the necessity that pro- 
 duced it ; after the practice has been once begun on one side by 
 hunger, it will naturally be adopted on the other by revenge. 
 ]^or is this all ; for though it may be pretended by some who 
 wish to appear speculative and philosophical, that whether the 
 dead body of an enemy be eaten or buried is in itself a matter 
 perfectly indifferent ; and that prejudice and habit only make 
 us shudder at the violation of custom in one instance, and blush 
 at it in the other : yet leaving this as a point of doubtful disputa- 
 tion, to be discussed at leisure, it may safely be afifi.rmed that 
 the practice of eating human flesh, whatever it may be in itself, 
 is relatively, and in its consequences, most pernicious ; tending 
 manifestly to eradicate a principle which is the chief security of 
 human life, and more frequently restrains the hand of murder 
 than the sense of duty, or even the fear of punishment. 
 
 Among those who are accustomed to eat the dead, death 
 must have lost much of its horror ; and where there is little 
 horror at the sight of death, there will not be much repugnance 
 to kill. A sense of duty, and fear of punishment, may be more 
 
First Voyage. 103 
 
 easily surmounted than the feelings of nature, or those which 
 have been ingrafted upon nature by early prejudice and uninter- 
 rupted custom. The horror of the murderer arises less from the 
 guilt of the fact than its natural effect ; and he who has fami- 
 liarised the effect will consequently lose much of the horror. 
 By our laws, and our religion, murder and theft incur the same 
 punishment, both in this world and the next ; yet, of the multi- 
 tude who would deliberately steal, there are but very few who 
 would deliberately kill, even to procure much greater advantage. 
 But there is the strongest reason to believe, that those who have 
 been so accustomed to prepare a human body for a meal, that 
 they can with as little feeling cut up a dead man as our cook- 
 maids divide a dead rabbit for a fricassee, would feel as little 
 horror in committing a murder as in picking a pocket, and con- 
 sequently would take away life with as little compunction as 
 property ; so that men, under these circumstances, would be 
 made murderers by the slight temptations that now make them 
 thieves. If any man doubts whether this reasoning is conclusive, 
 let him ask himself, whether in his own opinion he should not 
 be safer with a man in whom the horror of destroying life is 
 strong, whether in consequence of natural instinct unsubdued, 
 or of early prejudice, which has nearly an equal influence, than 
 in the power of a man who, under any temptation to murder 
 him, would be restraiued only by considerations of interest ; for 
 to these all motives of mere duty may be reduced, as they must 
 terminate either in hope of good or fear of eviL The situation 
 and circumstances, however, of these poor people, as well as their 
 temper, are favourable to those who shall settle as a colony 
 among them. Their situation sets them in need of protection, 
 and their temper renders it easy to attach them by kindness ; 
 
I04 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 and whatever may be said in favour of a savage life among 
 people who live in luxurious idleness upon the bounty of nature, 
 civilization would certainly be a blessing to those whom her par- 
 simony scarcely furnishes with the bread of life, and who are 
 perpetually destroying each other by violence as the only alter- 
 native of perishing by hunger. 
 
 But these people, from whatever cause, being inured to war, 
 and by habit considering every stranger as an enemy, were 
 always disposed to attack us when they were not intimidated by 
 our manifest superiority. At first, they had no notion of any supe- 
 riority but numbers ; and when this was on their side, they con- 
 sidered all our expressions of kindness as the artifices of fear and 
 cunning, to circumvent them and preserve ourselves ; but when 
 they were once convinced of our power, after having provoked 
 us to the use of our firearms, though loaded only with small-shot, 
 and of our clemency, by our forbearing to make use of weapons 
 so dreadful except in our defence, they became at once friendly, 
 and even affectionate, placing in us the most unbounded confi- 
 dence, and doing everything which could incite us to put equal 
 confidence in them. It is also remarkable, that when an inter- 
 course was once established between us, they w^re very rarely 
 detected in any act of dishonesty. Before, indeed, and while 
 they considered us as enemies, who came upon their coast only 
 to make an advantage of them, they did not scruple by any 
 means to make any advantage of us ; and would, therefore, when 
 they had received the price of anything they had offered to sell, 
 pack up both the purchase and the purchase-money with all 
 possible composure, as so much lawful plunder from people who 
 had no view but to plunder them. 
 
 The bodies of both sexes are marked with the black stains 
 
First Voyage, 
 
 105 
 
 called Amoco, by the same method that is used at Otaheite, and 
 called Tattowing ; but the men are more marked, and the 
 women less. The women in general stain no part of their 
 bodies but the lips, though sometimes they are marked with small 
 black patches on other parts : the men, on the contrary, seem to 
 add something every year to the ornaments of the last, so that 
 some of them, who appeared to be of an advanced age, were 
 almost covered from head to foot. Besides the Amoco, they 
 have marks impressed by a method 
 unknown to us, of a very extra- 
 ordinary kind : they are furrows of 
 about a line deep, and a line broad, 
 such as appear upon the bark of a 
 tree which has been cut through 
 after a year's growth ; the edges of 
 these furrows are afterwards in- 
 dented by the same method, and 
 being perfectly black, they make a 
 most frightful appearance. But 
 though we could not but be dis- 
 gusted with the horrid deformity 
 which these stains and furrows 
 produced in the " human face 
 divine," we could not but admire the dexterity and art with 
 which they were impressed. 
 
 Water is their universal and only liquor, as far as we could 
 discover ; and if they have really no means of intoxication, they 
 are, in this particular, happy beyond any other people that we 
 have yet seen or heard of. 
 
 As there is, perhaps, no source of disease, either critical or 
 
 New Zealand Chief. 
 
io6 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 chronic, but intemperance and inactivity, it cannot be thought 
 strange that these people enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health. 
 
 A proof of this is the great number of old men that we saw, 
 many of whom, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared to 
 be very ancient, yet none of them were decrepit ; and though 
 not equal to the young in muscular strength, were not a whit 
 behind them in cheerfulness and vivacity. 
 
 I think it appears to demonstration that the language of 
 New Zealand and Otaheite is radically the same. The language 
 of the northern and southern parts of !N'ew Zealand differs 
 chiefly in the pronunciation, as the same English word is pro- 
 nounced gate in Middlesex, and gedte in Yorkshire. I must 
 also observe, that it is the genius of the language, especially in 
 the southern parts, to put some article before a noun, as we do 
 the or a ; the articles used here were generally ke or ho ; it is 
 also common here to add the word deia after another word as an 
 iteration, especially if it is an answer to a question ; as we say, yes, 
 indeed, to he sure, really, certainly : this sometimes led our gentle- 
 men into the formation of words of an enormous length, judging 
 by the ear only, without being able to refer each sound into its 
 signification. An example wiU make this perfectly understood. 
 
 In the Bay of Islands there is a remarkable one, called by 
 the natives Matuaro. One of our gentlemen having asked a 
 native the name of it, he answered, with the particle, Kema- 
 tuaro ; the gentleman hearing the sound imperfectly, repeated 
 his question, and the Indian repeating his answer, added deia, 
 which made the word Kematuarooeia ; and thus it happened 
 that in the log-book I found Matuaro transformed into Cumet- 
 tiwarrowbia : and the same transformation by the same means 
 might happen to an English word. Suppose a native of New 
 
First Voyage. 107 
 
 Zealand at Hackney church, to inquire, "What village is this?" 
 the answer would be, "It is Hackney ;" suppose the question to 
 be repeated with an air of doubt and uncertainty, the answer 
 might be, " It is Hackney indeed ;" and the New Zealander, if he 
 had the use of letters, would probably record, for the informar 
 tion of his countrymen, that during his residence among us he 
 had visited a village called " Ityshakneeindede." 
 
 But supposing these islands, and those in the South Seas, 
 to have been peopled originally from the same country, it will 
 perhaps for ever remain a doubt what country that is : we were, 
 however, unanimously of opinion that the people did not come 
 from America, which lies to the eastward ; and except there 
 should appear to be a continent to the southward, in a moderate 
 latitude, it will foUow that they came from the westward. 
 
 Thus far our navigation has certainly been unfavourable to 
 the notion of a southern continent, for it has swept away at least 
 three-fourths of the positions upon which it has been founded. 
 The principal navigators whose authority has been urged on 
 this occasion, are Tasman, Juan Fernandez, Hermite, the com- 
 mander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and Eoggewein; and the 
 track of the " Endeavour " has demonstrated that the land seen by 
 these persons, and supposed to be part of a continent, is not so ; 
 it has also totally subverted the theoretical arguments which 
 have been brought to prove that the existence of a southern 
 continent is necessary to preserve an equilibrium between the 
 two hemispheres ; for upon this principle what we have already 
 proved to be water, would render the southern hemisphere too 
 light. 
 
io8 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 CHAPTEK III. 
 
 Discovery of New South Wales, 
 
 Having sailed from Cape Farewell — New Zealand — on the 31st 
 of March 1770, we steered westward, with a fresh gale. 
 
 On the 15th of April we saw an egg-bird and a gannet, and 
 as these are birds that never go far from the land, we continued 
 to sound all night, but had no ground with 130 fathom. At 
 noon, on the 16th, a small land-bird perched upon the rigging, 
 but we had no ground with 120 fathom. At eight we wore, and 
 stood to the southward tiU twelve at night, and then wore and 
 stood to the KW. till four in the morning, when we again stood 
 to the southward, having a fresh gale, with squalls and dark 
 weather till nine, when the weather became clear, and there 
 being little wind, we had an opportunity to take several obser- 
 vations of the sun and moon. We had now a hard gale from 
 the southward, and a great sea from the same quarter, which 
 obliged us to run under our fore-sail and mizen aU night, during 
 which we sounded every two hours, but had no ground with 120 
 fathom. 
 
 In the morning of the 18th, we saw two Port Egmont hens, 
 and a pintado bird, which are certain signs of approaching land, 
 and, indeed, by our reckoning, we could not be far from it, for 
 our longitude was now one degree to the westward of the east 
 
First Voyage. 109 
 
 side of Van Dieman's Land, according to the longitude laid down 
 by Tasman, whom we could not suppose to have erred much in 
 so short a run as from this land to New Zealand ; and by oui 
 latitude, we could not be above fifty or fifty-five leagues from the 
 place whence he took his departure. At six we saw land ex- 
 tending from KE. to W. at the distance of five or six leagues, 
 having eighty fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom. 
 
 We continued standing westward till eight, when we made 
 all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore N.E. for the 
 easternmost land in sight. The southernmost point in view I gave 
 the name of Point Hicks, because Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, 
 was the first who discovered it. 
 
 We continued to sail along the shore to the northward, with 
 a southerly wind, and saw smoke in several places near the 
 beach. About two leagues to the northward of Cape George, the 
 shore seemed to form a bay, which promised shelter from the 
 north-east winds ; but as the wind was with us, it was not in 
 my power to look into it without beating up, which would have 
 cost me more time than I was willing to spare. The north point 
 of this bay, on account of its figure, I named Long Nose ; and 
 about eight leagues north of it there lies a point, which, from the 
 colour of the land about it, I called Eed Point. To the north- 
 west of Eed Point, and a little way inland, stands a round hill, 
 the top of which looks like the crown of a hat. We continued 
 at the distance of between two and four miles from the shore, 
 when we saw several of the natives walking briskly along, four 
 of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders. We flat- 
 tered ourselves that they were going to put her into the water 
 and come off to the ship, but finding ourselves disappointed, I 
 determined to pull for that part of the shore where they appeared. 
 
no CooMs Voyages, 
 
 near which four small canoes were lying at the water's edge. 
 The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and seemed to wait for 
 our landing; but to our great regret,. when we came within 
 about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods. We 
 determined, however, to go on shore, and procure an interview : 
 but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a 
 surf beating upon every part of the beach, that, after many a 
 wishful look, we were obliged to return to the ship with our 
 curiosity rather excited than satisfied. At daybreak we dis- 
 covered a bay, which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, 
 and into which, therefore, I determined to go with the ship. On 
 directing our glasses to the shore we discovered ten people, who, 
 upon our nearer approach, left their fire, and retired to a little 
 eminence, whence they could conveniently observe our motions. 
 As the pinnace proceeded along the shore to sound, most of the 
 people took the same route, and kept abreast of her at a distance. 
 When she came back, the master told us, that in a cove a little 
 within the harbour, some of them had come down to the beach, 
 and invited him to land by many signs and words, of which he 
 knew not the meaning ; but that all of them were armed with 
 long pikes, and a wooden weapon shaped somewhat like a scymi- 
 tar. The Indians who had not followed the boat, seeing the 
 ship approach, used many threatening gestures and brandished 
 their weapons ; particularly two who made a very singular ap- 
 pearance, for their faces seemed to have been dusted with a 
 white powder, and their bodies painted with broad streaks of 
 the same colour, which passing obliquely over their breasts and 
 backs, looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by our soldiers ; 
 the same kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs and 
 thighs, like broad garters. Each of these men held in his hand 
 
First Voyage. iii 
 
 the weapon that had been described to us as like a scymitar,* 
 which appeared to be about two feet and a half long ; and they 
 seemed to talk to each other with great earnestness. 
 
 The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a 
 small village, consisting of about six or eight houses ; and while 
 we were preparing to hoist out the boat, we saw an old woman, 
 followed by three children, come out of the wood ; she was 
 loaded with fire-wood, and each of the children had also its little 
 burden. When she came to the houses, three more children, 
 younger than the others, came out to meet her ; she often looked 
 at the ship, but expressed neither fear nor surprise. In a short 
 time she kindled a fire, and the four canoes came in from fishing. 
 The men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began to 
 dress their dinner, to all appearance, wholly unconcerned about 
 us, though we were within haK a mile of them. We thought it 
 remarkable that all of the people we had yet seen, not one had 
 the least appearance of clothing. 
 
 Courage of the Natives. 
 
 After dinner the boats were manned, and we set out from the 
 ship, having Tupia of our party. We intended to land where 
 we saw the people, and began to hope that as they had so little 
 regard to the ship's coming into the bay, they would as little 
 regard our coming on shore. In this, however, we were dis- 
 appointed ; for as soon as we approached the rocks, two of the 
 men came down upon them to dispute our landing, and the rest 
 ran away. Each of the two champions was armed with a lance 
 about ten feet long, and a short stick, which he seemed to 
 handle as if it was a machine to assist him in managing or 
 
 • The booTTurang. 
 
112 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 throwing the lance. They called to us in a very loud tone, and 
 in a harsh dissonant language, of which neither we nor Tupia 
 understood a single word : they brandished their weapons, and 
 seemed resolved to defend their coast to the uttermost, though 
 they were hut two, and we were forty. I could not but admire 
 their courage, and being very unwilling that hostilities should 
 commence with such inequality of force between us, I ordered 
 the boat to lie upon her oars : we then parleyed by signs for 
 about a quarter of an hour, and to bespeak their good-will, I 
 threw them nails, beads, and other trifles, which they took up, 
 and seemed to be well pleased with. I then made signs that I 
 wanted water, and, by all the means that I could devise, endea- 
 voured to convince them that we would do them no harm. They 
 now waved to us, and I was willing to interpret it as an invi- 
 tation ; but upon our putting the boat in, they came again to 
 oppose us. One appeared to be a youth about nineteen or 
 twenty, and the other a man of middle age ; as I had now no 
 other resource, I fired a musket between them. 
 
 Upon the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances 
 upon the rock, but recollecting himself in an instant, he snatched 
 them up again with great haste. A stone was then thrown at 
 us, upon which I ordered a musket to be fired with small-shot, 
 which struck the eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran 
 to one of the houses, which was distant about a hundred yards. 
 I now hoped that our contest was over, and we immediately 
 landed ; but we had scarcely left the boat when he returned, and 
 we then perceived that he had left the rock only to fetch a 
 shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, he 
 threw a lance at us, and his comrade another ; they fell where 
 we stood thickest, but happily hurt nobody. A third musket 
 
First Voyage. 1 13 
 
 witli small-shot was then fired at them, upon which one of them 
 threw another lance, and both immediately ran away ; if we had 
 pursued, we might probably have taken one of them ; but Mr. 
 Banks suggesting that the lances might be poisoned, I thought 
 it not prudent to venture into the woods. We repaired im- 
 mediately to the huts, in one of which we found the children, 
 who had hidden themselves behind a shield and some bark ; we 
 peeped at them, but left them in their retreat, without their 
 knowing that they had been discovered, and we threw into the 
 house, when we went away, some beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, 
 and other presents, which we hoped would procure us the good- 
 will of the inhabitants when they should return ; but the lances 
 which we foimd lying about, we took away with us, to the 
 number of about fifty : they were from six to fifteen feet long, 
 and all of them had four prongs in the manner of a fish-gig, 
 each of which was pointed with fish-bone, and very sharp ; we 
 observed that they were smeared with a viscous substance of a 
 green colour, which favoured the opinion of their being poisoned, 
 though we afterwards discovered that it was a mistake ; they 
 appeared, by the sea-weed that we found sticking to them, to 
 have been used in striking fish. 
 
 While Mr. Banks was gathering plants near the watering- 
 place, I went with Solander and Monkhouse to the head of the 
 bay, that I might examine that part of the country, and make 
 farther attempts to form some negociation with the natives. In 
 our way we met with eleven or twelve small canoes, with each a 
 man in it, probably the same that were afterwards abreast of the 
 shore, who all made into shoal water upon our approach. We 
 met other Indians on shore the first time we landed, who instantly 
 took to their canoes and paddled away. We went up the country 
 
 I 
 
114 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 to some distance, and found the face of it nearly the same with 
 that which has been described already, but the soil was much 
 richer ; for, instead of sand, I found a deep black mould, which 
 I thought very fit for the production of grain of any kind. In 
 the woods we found a tree which bore fruit that in colour and 
 shape resembled a cherry : the juice had an agreeable tartness, 
 though but little flavour. We found also interspersed some of 
 the finest meadows in the world : some places, however, were 
 rocky, but these were comparatively few ; the stone is sandy, and 
 might be used with advantage for building. 
 
 The great quantity of plants which Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- 
 der collected in this place, induced me to give it the name of 
 
 Botany Bay.* 
 
 All the inhabitants that we saw were stark naked : they did 
 not appear to be numerous, nor to live in societies, but, like other 
 animals, were scattered about along the coast, and in the woods. 
 Of their manner of life, however, we could know but little, as we 
 were never able to form the least connection with them. After 
 the first contest at our landing, they would never come near 
 enough to parley ; nor did they touch a single article of all that 
 we had left at their huts, and the places they frequented, on 
 purpose for them to take away. 
 
 During my stay in this harbour I caused the English colours 
 to be displayed on shore every day, and the ship's name and the 
 date of the year to be inscribed upon one of the trees near the 
 watering-place. 
 
 At daybreak, on Sunday the 6th of May, 1770, we set sail 
 from Botany Bay, and steered along the shore N.N.E., until we 
 
 * For many years a penal settlement for our convicts, but no longer so. 
 
First Voyage. 1 1 5 
 
 came abreast of a bay or harbour, in which there appeared to be 
 good anchorage, and which I called Port Jackson 
 (Now the town of Sydney). 
 
 The wind continuing northerly till the morning of the 10th, 
 we continued to stand in and off the shore, with very little 
 change of situation in other respects ; but a gale then springing 
 up at S.W., we made the best of our way along the shore to the 
 northward. 
 
 At latitude 30** 43' S., and longitude 206° 45' W., we were 
 between three and four leagues from the shore, the northernmost 
 part of which bore from us N. 13 W., and a point, or headland, 
 on which we saw fires that produced a great quantity of smoke, 
 bore "W., distant four leagues. To this point I gave the name of 
 Smoky Cape.* 
 
 We advanced to the northward by Point Look-out, Moreton's 
 Bay, Double Island Point, Indian Head, Sandy Cape, Hervey's 
 Bay (so named in honour of Captain Hervey), Bustard Bay, Cape 
 Capricorn, Cape Manifold, Keppel Bay, Cape Townshend, Thirsty 
 Sound (because it afforded us no fresh water), Cape Palmerston, 
 Cape Conway, Eepulse Bay, Whitsunday's Passage, Cape Glou- 
 cester, Cape Grafton, and Trinity Bay (discovered on Trinity 
 Sunday). 
 
 Hitherto we had safely navigated this dangerous coast, where 
 the sea in all parts conceals shoals that suddenly project from 
 the shore, and rocks that rise abruptly like a pyramid from the 
 bottom, for an extent of two-and-twenty degrees of latitude, more 
 than one thousand three hundred miles ; and therefore none of 
 the names which distinguish the several parts of the countiy that 
 we saw are memorials of distress ; but here we became acquainted 
 
 B* The present Port Macquaxrie. 
 
1 1 6 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 with misfortune, and we therefore called the point which we had 
 just seen farthest to the northward 
 
 Cape Teibulation. 
 
 It was my design here to stretch off all night, as well to avoid 
 the danger we saw ahead as to see whether any islands lay in the 
 offing, especially as we were now near the latitude assigned to 
 the islands which were discovered by Quiros, and which some 
 geographers, for what reason I know not, have thought fit to join 
 to this land. We had the advantage of a fine breeze and a clear 
 moonlight night, and in standing off from six till near nine o'clock, 
 we deepened our water from fourteen to twenty-one fathom ; but 
 while we were at supper, it suddenly shoaled, and we fell into 
 twelve, ten, and eight fathom, within the space of a few minutes. 
 I immediately ordered everybody to their station, and all was 
 ready to put about and come to an anchor, but meeting at the 
 next cast of the lead with deep water again, we concluded that 
 we had gone over the tail of the shoals which we had seen at 
 sunset, and that all danger was past. Before ten we had twenty 
 and one-and-twenty fathom, and this depth continuing, the 
 gentlemen left the deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed ; 
 but a few minutes before eleven, the water shallowed at once 
 from twenty to seventeen fathom, and before the lead could be 
 cast again, the ship struck, and remained immovable, except by 
 the heaving of the surge that beat her against the crags of the 
 rock upon which she lay. 
 
 Pkecarious Position of the Ship. 
 
 In a few moments everybody was upon the deck, with coun- 
 tenances which sufficiently expressed the horrors of our situation. 
 
First Voyage. 117 
 
 We had stood off the shore three hours and a half, with a pleasant 
 breeze, and therefore knew that we could not be very near it, and 
 we had too much reason to conclude that we were upon a rock 
 of coral, which is more fatal than any other, because the points 
 of it are sharp, and every part of the surface so rough, as to 
 grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with the gentlest 
 motion. In this situation all the sails were immediately taken 
 in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water 
 round the ship : we soon discovered that our fears had not 
 aggravated our misfortune, and that the vessel had been lifted 
 over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it : in some 
 places there was from three to four fathom, and in others not so 
 many feet. The ship lay with her head to the KE. ; and at the 
 distance of about thirty yards on the starboard side, the water 
 deepened to eight, ten, and twelve fathom. As soon as the long- 
 boat was out, we struck our yards and top-masts, and carried out 
 the stream anchor on the starboard bow, got the coasting-anchor 
 and cable into the boat, and were going to carry it out the same 
 way ; but upon sounding a second time round the ship, the 
 water was found to be deepest astern : the anchor, therefore, was 
 carried out from the starboard quarter instead of the starboard 
 bow — that is, from the stem instead of the head — and having 
 taken ground, our utmost force was applied to the capstan, 
 hoping that if the anchor did not come home, the ship would be 
 got off; but, to our great misfortune and disappointment, we 
 could not move her. During all this time she continued to beat 
 with great violence against the rock, so that it was with the 
 utmost difficulty that we kept upon our legs ; and to complete 
 the scene of distress, we saw by the light of the moon the 
 sheathing-boards from the bottom of the vessel floating away 
 
 i 
 
1 1 8 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 all round her, and at last her false keel, so that every moment 
 was making way for the sea to rush in which was to swallow us 
 up. We had now no chance but to lighten her, and we had lost 
 the opportunity of doing that to the greatest advantage, for un- 
 happily we went on shore just at high water, and by this time it 
 had considerably fallen, so that after she should be lightened so 
 as to draw as much less water as the water had sunk, we should 
 be but in the same situation as at first ; and the only alleviation 
 of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed the ship settled 
 to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so much 
 violence. We had indeed some hope from the next tide, but it 
 was doubtful whether she would hold together so long, especially 
 as the rock kept grating her bottom under the starboard boiv with 
 such force as to be heard in the fore store-room. This, however, 
 was no time to indulge conjecture, nor was any effort remitted in 
 despair of success : that no time might be lost, the water was 
 immediately started in the hold, and pumped up ; six of our 
 guns, being all we had upon the deck, our iron and stone ballast, 
 casks, hoop-staves, oil-jars, decayed stores, and many other things 
 that lay in the way of heavier materials, were thrown overboard 
 with the utmost expedition, every one exerting himself with an 
 alacrity almost approaching to cheerfulness, without the least 
 repining or discontent ; yet the men were so far impressed with 
 a sense of their situation, that not an oath was heard among 
 them, the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly 
 subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to 
 be so near. 
 
 While we were thus employed day broke upon us, and we 
 saw the land at about eight leagues distance, without any island 
 in the intermediate space, upon which, if the ship should have 
 
First Voyage, 119 
 
 gone to pieces, we might have been set ashore by the boats, and 
 from which they might have taken us by different turns to the 
 main ; the wind, however, gradually died away, and early in the 
 forenoon it was a dead calm ; if it had blown hard the ship 
 must inevitably have been destroyed. At eleven in the forenoon 
 we expected high water, and anchors were got out, and every- 
 thing made ready for another effort to heave her off if she should 
 float, but to our inexpressible surprise and concern, she did not 
 float by a foot and a half, though we had lightened her near 
 fifty ton ; so much did the day-tide fall short of that in 
 the night. We now proceeded to lighten her still more, and 
 threw overboard everything that it was possible for us to spare ; 
 hitherto she had not admitted much water, but as the tide fell, 
 it rushed in so fast, that two pumps, incessantly worked, could 
 scarcely keep her free. At two o'clock she lay heeling two or 
 three streaks to starboard, and the pinnace, which lay under her 
 bows, touched the ground ; we had now no hope but from the 
 tide at midnight, and to prepare for it we carried out our two 
 bower-anchors, one on the starboard quarter, and the other right 
 astern, got the blocks and tackle which were to give us a pur- 
 chase upon the cables in order, and brought the falls, or ends of 
 them, in abaft, straining them tight, that the next effort might 
 operate upon the ship, and by shortening the length of the cable 
 between that and the anchors, draw her off the ledge upon which 
 she rested, towards the deep water, About five o'clock in the 
 afternoon, we observed the tide begin to rise, but we observed at 
 the same time that the leak increased to a most alarming degree, 
 so that two more pumps were manned, but unhappily only one 
 of them would work. Three of the pumps, however, were kept 
 going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted ; but the leak 
 
120 Cook^s Voyages. 
 
 had gained upon us so considerably, that it was imagined she 
 must go to the bottom as soon as she ceased to be supported 
 by the rock. 
 
 HoRROKS OF Shipwreck. 
 
 This was a dreadful circumstance, so that we anticipated the 
 floating of the ship not as an earnest of deKverance, but as an 
 event that would probably precipitate our destruction. We well 
 knew that our boats were not capable of carrying us all on shore, 
 and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, as all command 
 and subordination would be at an end, a contest for preference 
 would probably ensue, that would increase even the horrors of 
 shipwrecli, and terminate in the destruction of us all by the 
 hands of each other ; yet we knew that if any should be left on 
 board to perish in the waves, they would probably suffer less 
 upon the whole than those who should get on shore, without any 
 lasting or effectual defence against the natives, in a country 
 where even nets and fire-arms would scarcely furnish them with 
 food ; and where, if they should find the means of subsistence, 
 they must be condemned to languish out the remainder of life in 
 a desolate wilderness, without the possession, or even hope, of any 
 domestic comfort, and cut off from all commerce with mankind, 
 except the naked savages who prowled the desert, and who per- 
 haps were some of the most rude and uncivilized upon the 
 eartL 
 
 To those only who have waited in a state of such suspense, 
 death has approached in all his terrors ; and as the dreadful 
 moment that was to determine our fate came on, every one saw 
 his own sensations pictured in the countenances of his com- 
 panions ; however, the capstan and windlass were manned with 
 
First Voyage, 121 
 
 as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the ship 
 floating about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the effort was 
 made, and she was heaved into deep water. It was some com- 
 fort to find that she did not now admit more water than she had 
 done upon the rock ; and though, by the gaining of the leak 
 upon the pumps, there was no less than three feet nine inches 
 water in the hold, yet the men did not relinquish their labour, 
 and we held the water as it were at bay ; but having now en- 
 dured excessive fatigue of body and agitation of mind for more 
 than four-and-twenty hours, and having but little hope of suc- 
 ceeding at last, they began to flag; none of them could work at the 
 pump for more than five or six minutes together, and then, being 
 totally exhausted, they threw themselves down upon the deck, 
 though a stream of water was running over it from the pumps, 
 between three and four inches deep ; when those who succeeded 
 them had worked their spell, and were exhausted in their turn, 
 they threw themselves down in the same manner, and the others 
 started up again and renewed their labour ; thus relieving each 
 other till an accident was very near putting an end to their 
 efforts at once. The planking which lines the inside of the 
 ship's bottom is called the ceiling, and between this and the out- 
 side planking there is a space of about eighteen inches ; the man 
 who till this time had attended the well to take the depth of 
 water, had taken it only to the ceiling, and gave the measure 
 accordingly ; but he being now relieved, the person who came 
 in his stead reckoned the depth to the outside planking, by 
 which it appeared in a few minutes to have gained upon the 
 pumps eighteen inches, the difference between the planking 
 without and within. Upon this, even the bravest was upon the 
 point of giving up his labour with his hope, and in a few minutes 
 
122 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 everything would have been involved in all the confusion of 
 despair. But this accident, however dreadful in its first conse- 
 quences, was eventually the cause of our preservation; the 
 mistake was soon detected, and the sudden joy which every man 
 felt upon finding his situation better than his fears had sug- 
 gested, operated like a charm, and seemed to possess him with a 
 strong belief that scarcely any real danger remained. 
 
 New confidence and new hope, however founded, inspired 
 new vigour ; and though our state was the same as when the 
 men first began to slacken in their labour through weariness and 
 despondency, they now renewed their efforts with such alacrity 
 and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the morning the leak was 
 so far from having gained upon the pumps, that the pumps had 
 gained considerably upon the leak. Everybody now talked of 
 getting the ship into some harbour as a thing not to be doubted, 
 and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they were em- 
 ployed in getting up the anchors ; the stream-anchor and best 
 bower we had taken on board ; but it was found impossible to 
 save the little bower, and therefore it was cut away at a whole 
 cable ; we lost also the cable of the stream-anchor among the 
 rocks ; but in our situation these were trifles which scarcely 
 attracted our notice. Our next business was to get up the fore- 
 topmast and foreyard, and warp the ship to the south-east, and 
 at eleven, having now a breeze from the sea, we once more got 
 under sail and stood for the land. 
 
 Ingenious Manner of Stopping a Leak. 
 
 It was, however, impossible long to continue the labour by 
 which the pumps had been made to gain upon the leak ; and as 
 the exact situation of it could not be discovered, we had no hope 
 
First Voyage, 123 
 
 of stopping it within. In this situation Monkhouse, one of my 
 midshipmen, came to me, and proposed an expedient that he 
 had once seen used on board a merchant-ship, which sprung a 
 leak that admitted above four feet of water an hour, and which, 
 by this expedient, was brought safely from Virginia to London ; 
 the master having such confidence in it, that he took her out of 
 harbour, knowing her condition, and did not think it worth while 
 to wait till the leak could be otherwise stopped. To this man, 
 therefore, the care of the expedient, which is called fothering the 
 ship, was immediately committed, four or five of the people being 
 appointed to assist him, and he performed it in this manner : he 
 took a lower studdingsail, and having mixed together a large 
 quantity of oakum and wool, chopped pretty small, he stitched 
 it down in handfuls upon the sail, as lightly as possible, and 
 over this he spread the dung of our sheep and other filth ; but 
 horse-dung, if we had had it, would have been better. When 
 the sail was thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's bottom 
 by ropes, which kept it extended, and when it came under the 
 leak, the suction which carried in the water, carried in with it 
 the oakum and wool from the surface of the sail, which in other 
 parts the water was not sufficiently agitated to wash off. By 
 the success of this expedient our leak was so far reduced, that 
 instead of gaining upon three pumps, it was easily kept under 
 with one. This was a new source of confidence and comfort ; 
 the people could scarcely have expressed more joy if they had been 
 already in port ; and their views were so far from being limited 
 to running the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an island 
 or the main, and building a vessel out of her materials to carry 
 us to the East Indies, which had so lately been the utmost object 
 of our hope, that nothing was now thought of but ranging along 
 
124 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the shore in search of a convenient place to repair the damage 
 she had sustained, and then prosecuting the voyage upon the 
 same plan as if nothing had happened. In the meantime, we 
 got up the main-top-mast and main-yard, and kept edging in for 
 the land, when we came to an anchor in seventeen fathom water, 
 at a distance of seven leagues from the shore, and one from the 
 ledge of rocks upon which we had struck. 
 
 The pinnace was sent out with one of the mates, who re- 
 ported on his return that about two leagues to leeward he had 
 discovered just such a harbour as we wanted, in which there was 
 a sufficient rise of water, and every other convenience that could 
 be desired, either for laying the ship ashore, or heaving her 
 down. 
 
 In consequence of this information I weighed at six o'clock 
 in the morning, and having sent two boats ahead to lie upon the 
 shoals that we saw in our way, we ran down to the place ; but 
 notwithstanding our precaution we were once in three fathom 
 water. It was happy for us that a place of refuge was at hand ; 
 for we soon found that the ship would not work, having twice 
 missed stays : our situation, however, though it might have been 
 much worse, was not without danger ; we were entangled among 
 shoals, and I had great reason to fear being driven to leeward 
 before the boats could place themselves so as to prescribe our 
 course. I therefore anchored in four fathom about a mile from 
 the shore, and then made the signal for the boats to come on 
 board. When this was done I went myself and buoyed the 
 channel, which I found very narrow ; the harbour also I found 
 smaller than I expected, but most excellently adapted to our 
 purpose ; and it is- remarkable that in the whole course of our 
 voyage we had seen no place which, in our present circumstances. 
 
First Voyage. 125 
 
 could have afforded us the same relief. For our farther security 
 we got down the topgallant yards, unbent the mainsail and some 
 of the small sails ; got down the fore-topgallant-mast, and the 
 jib-boom and spritsail, with a view to lighten the ship forwards 
 as much as possible, in order to come at her leak, which we sup- 
 posed to be somewhere in that part ; for in all the joy of our 
 unexpected deliverance we had not forgot that at this time there 
 was 
 
 Nothing but a lock of wool between us and destruction. 
 
 The scurvy now began to make its appearance among us 
 with many formidable symptoms. Our poor Indian, Tupia, who 
 had some time before complained that his gums were sore and 
 swelled, and who had taken plentifully of our lemon juice by the 
 surgeon's directions, had now livid spots upon his legs, aud other 
 indubitable testimonies that the disease had made a rapid pro- 
 gress, notwithstanding all our remedies, among which the bark 
 had been liberally administered. Mr. Green, our astronomer, 
 was also declining ; and these, among other circumstances, em- 
 bittered the delay which prevented our going ashore. 
 
 In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was still fresh, 
 we ventured to weigh, and push in for the harbour; but in 
 doing this we twice ran the ship aground : the first time she 
 went off without any trouble, but the second time she stuck fast. 
 We now got down the fore-yard, fore-top-masts, and booms, and 
 taking them overboard made a raft of them alongside of the ship. 
 The tide was happily rising, and about one o'clock in the after- 
 noon she floated. We soon warped her into the harbour, and 
 having ihoored her alongside of a steep beach to the south, we 
 got the anchors, cables, and all the hawsers on shore before night. 
 
T26 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 A stage was then made from the ship to the shore which 
 was so bold that she floated at twenty feet distance : two tents 
 were also set up, one for the sick and the other for stores and 
 provisions, which were landed in the course of the day. We 
 also landed all the empty water-casks, and part of the stores. 
 As soon as the tent for the sick was got ready for their recep- 
 tion, they were sent ashore to the number of eight or nine, and 
 the boat was despatched to haul the seine, in hopes of procuring 
 some fish for their refreshment ; but she returned without suc- 
 cess. In the mean time I climbed one of the highest hills 
 among those that overlooked the harbour, which afforded by no 
 means a comfortable prospect : the low land near the river is 
 wholly overrun with mangroves, among which the salt-water 
 flows every tide ; and the high land appeared to be everywhere 
 stony and barren. Mr. Banks had also taken a walk up the 
 country, and met with the frames of several old Indian houses, 
 and places where they had dressed shell-fish ; but they seemed 
 not to have been frequented for some months. Tupia, who had 
 employed himself in angling, and lived entirely upon what he 
 caught, recovered in a surprising degree ; but Mr. Green still 
 continued to be extremely ill. 
 
 The next morning I got the four remaining guns out of the 
 hold, and mounted them upon the quarter-deck ; I also got a 
 spare anchor and anchor-stock ashore, and the remaining part 
 of the stores and ballast that were in the hold ; set up the 
 smith's forge, and employed the armourer and his mate to 
 make nails and other necessaries for the repair of the ship. In 
 the afternoon, all the of&cers' stores and the ground tier of water 
 were got out ; so that nothing remained in the fore and main 
 hold but the coals and a small quantity of stone ballast 
 
First Voyage. 127 
 
 On the 20th we landed the powder, and got out the stone 
 ballast and wood, which brought the ship's draught of water to 
 eight feet ten inches forward, and thirteen feet abaft ; and this, 
 I thought, with the difference that would be made by trimming 
 the coals aft, would be sufficient ; for I found that the water 
 rose and fell perpendicularly eight feet at the spring tides : but 
 as soon as the coals were trimmed from over the leak, we could 
 hear the water rush in a little abaft the foremast, about three 
 feet from the keel : this determined me to clear the hold entirely, 
 which I accomplished the next day. 
 
 CuKious Discovery about the Leak. 
 
 At two o'clock in the morning of the 22d the tide left her, 
 and gave us an opportunity to examine the leak, which we 
 found to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard fore- 
 chains. In this place the rocks had made their way through 
 four planks, and even into the timbers ; three more planks were 
 much damaged, and the appearance of these breaches was very 
 extraordinary : there was not a splinter to be seen, but all was 
 as smooth as if the whole had been cut away by an instrument : 
 the timbers in this place were happily very close, and if they 
 had not, it would have been absolutely impossible to have saved 
 the ship. But after all her preservation depended upon a cir- 
 cumstance still more remarkable : one of the holes, which was 
 big enough to have sunk us if we had had eight pumps instead 
 of four, and been able to keep them incessantly going, was in 
 great measure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, which, 
 after having made the wound, was left sticking in it ; so that 
 the water, which at first had gained upon our pumps, was what 
 came in at the interstices between the stone and the edges of the 
 
128 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 hole that received it. We found also several pieces of the 
 fothering, which had made their way between the timbers, and 
 in a great measure stopped those parts of the leak which the 
 stone had left open. Upon further examination we found that, 
 besides the leak, considerable damage had been done to the 
 bottom. 
 
 This day almost everybody had seen the animal which a 
 pigeon shooting-party had brought an account of the day before ; 
 and one of the seamen who had been rambling in the woods 
 told us at his return that he verily believed 
 
 He had seen the devil : 
 
 we naturally inquired in what form he had appeared, and his 
 answer was, " He was as large as a one-gallon keg, and very like 
 it ; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the 
 grass that if I had not been afeard I might have touched him." 
 This formidable apparition we afterwards discovered to be a bat ; 
 and the bats here must be acknowledged to have a frightful 
 appearance, for they are nearly black, and full as large as a 
 partridge ; they have indeed no horns, but the fancy of a man 
 who thought he saw the devil might easily supply that defect. 
 
 Early in the morning of July 2d, I sent the master in the 
 pinnace out of the harbour, to sound about the shoals in the 
 ofQ.ng, and look for channel to the northward, but our utmost 
 efforts were still ineffectual. 
 
 He returned the next day at noon, and reported that he had 
 found a passage out to sea between the shoals, which he de- 
 scribed as consisting of coral rocks, many of which were dry at 
 low water, and upon one of which he had been ashore. He 
 found there some cockles of so enormous a size, that one of them 
 
First Voyage. 129 
 
 was more than two men could eat, and a great variety of other 
 shell-fish, of which he brought us a plentiful supply: in the 
 evening he had also landed in a bay about three leagues to 
 the northward of our station, where he disturbed some of the 
 natives who were at supper : they all fled with the greatest preci- 
 pitation at his approach, leaving some fresh sea eggs, and a 
 fire ready kindled behind them, but there was neither house 
 nor hovel near the place. 
 
 Shooting Excuesion. 
 
 The next morning, Mr. Banks, with Lieutenant Gore, and 
 three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view to 
 spend two or three days in an excursion, to examine the coun- 
 try, and kill some of the animals which had been so often seen 
 at a distance. 
 
 Having proceeded about three leagues among swamps and 
 mangroves, they went up into the country, which they found 
 to differ but little from what they had seen before : they pur- 
 sued their course, therefore, up the river, which at length was con- 
 tracted into a narrow channel, and was bounded, not by swamps 
 and mangroves, but by steep banks, covered with trees of a most 
 beautiful verdure, among which was the mohoe, or the bark-tree 
 of the West Indies. The land within was in general low, and 
 had a thick covering of long grass : the soil seemed to be such 
 as promised great fertility, to any who should plant and improve 
 it. At night they took up their lodging close to the banks of 
 the river, and made a fire, but the mosquitoes swarmed about 
 them in such numbers that their quarters were almost unten- 
 able : they followed them into the smoke, and almost into the 
 fire, which, hot as the climate was, they could better endure 
 
I JO Cooks Voyages. 
 
 than the stings of these insects, which were an intolerable tor- 
 ment. The fire, the flies, and the want of a better bed than the 
 ground, rendered the night extremely uncomfortable, so that 
 they passed it, not in sleep, but in restless wishes for the return 
 of day. 
 
 With the first dawn they set out in search of game, and in a 
 walk of many miles they saw four animals of the same kind, 
 two of which Mr. Banks's greyhound fairly chased, but they 
 threw him out at a great distance, by leaping over the long 
 thick grass, which prevented his running. This animal (the 
 kangaroo) was observed, not to run upon four legs, but to bound 
 or hop forward upon two, like the Jerhoa, or Mus Jaculus. As 
 evening approached, it became low water, and the river was then 
 so shallow that they were obliged to get out of the boat and 
 drag her along, till they could find a place in which they might, 
 with some hope of rest, pass the night. Such a place at length 
 offered ; and, while they were getting the things out of the boat, 
 they observed a smoke at the distance of about a furlong ; as 
 they did not doubt but that some of the natives, with whom 
 they had so long and earnestly desired to become personally 
 acquainted, were about the fire, three of the party went imme- 
 diately towards it, hoping that so small a number would not put 
 them to flight : when they came up to the place, however, they 
 found it deserted, and therefore they conjectured, that before 
 they had discovered the Indians, the Indians had discovered 
 them. They found the fire still burning in the hollow of an 
 old tree that had become touchwood, and several branches of 
 trees newly broken down, with which children appeared to have 
 been playing : they observed also many footsteps upon the sand, 
 below high-water mark, which were certain indications that the 
 
First Voyage. 131 
 
 Indians had been recently upon the spot. Several houses were 
 found at a little distance, and some ovens dug in the ground, in 
 the same manner as those of Otaheite, in which victuals appeared 
 to have been dressed since the morning ; and scattered about 
 them lay some shells of a kind of clam, and some fragments of 
 roots, the refuse of the meaL After regretting their disappoint- 
 ment, they repaired to their quarters, which was a broad sand- 
 bank, under the shelter of a bush. Their beds were plantain 
 leaves, which they spread upon the sand, and which were as soft 
 as a mattress ; their cloaks served them for bed-clothes, and 
 some bunches of grass for pillows : with these accommodations 
 they hoped to pass a better night than the last, especially as, to 
 their great comfort, not a mosquito was to be seen. 
 
 The Force of Habit. 
 
 Here they lay down, and, such is the force of habit, they 
 resigned themselves to sleep, without once reflecting upon the 
 probability and danger of being found by the Indians in that 
 situation. If this appears strange, let us for a moment reflect, 
 that every danger, and every calamity, after a time, becomes 
 familiar, and loses its effect upon the mind. If it were pos- 
 sible that a man should first be made acquainted with his mor- 
 tality, or even with the inevitable debility and infirmities of old 
 age, when his understanding had arrived at its full strength, and 
 life was endeared by the enjoyments of youth, and vigour, and 
 health, with what an agony of terror and distress would the in- 
 telligence be received! yet, being gradually acquainted with 
 these mournful truths, by insensible degrees, we scarce know 
 when, they lose all their force, and we think no more of the ap- 
 proach of old age and death, than these wanderers of an unknown 
 
132 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 desert did of a less obvious and certain evil — the approach 
 of the native savages, at a time when they must have fallen 
 an easy prey to their malice or their fears. And it is remark- 
 able, that the greater part of those who have been condemned to 
 suffer a violent death, have slept the night immediately preced- 
 ing their execution, though there is perhaps no instance of a 
 person accused of a capital crime having slept the first night of 
 his confinement. Thus is the evil of life in some degree a 
 remedy for itself, and though every man at twenty deprecates 
 fourscore, almost every man is as tenacious of life at fourscore 
 as at twenty ; and if he does not suffer under any painful dis- 
 order, loses as little of the comfoi-ts that remain by reflecting 
 that he is upon the brink of the grave, where the earth already 
 crumbles under his feet, as he did of the pleasures of his better 
 days, when his dissolution, though certain, was supposed to be 
 at a distance. 
 
 The party having slept, without once awaking, till the 
 morning, examined the river, and finding the tide favoured their 
 return, and the country promised nothing worthy of a farther 
 search, they re-embarked in their boat, and made the best of 
 their way to the ship. 
 
 Soon after the arrival of this party, the master also returned, 
 having been seven leagues out to sea; and he was now of 
 opinion that there was no getting out where before he thought 
 there had been a passage. His expedition, however, was by no 
 means without its advantage ; for having been a second time 
 upon the rock where he had seen the large cockles, he met with 
 a great number of turtle, three of which he caught, that toge- 
 ther weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds, though he 
 had no better instrument than a boat-hook. 
 
First Voyage, 133 
 
 The Natives at last Pkopitiated. 
 
 Soon after four of the natives appeared upon the sandy point, 
 on the north side of the river, having with them a small wooden 
 canoe, with out-riggers : they seemed for some time to be busily 
 employed in striking fish : some of our people were for going 
 over to them in a boat ; but this I would by no means permit, 
 repeated experience having convinced me that it was more likely 
 to prevent than to procure an interview. I was determined to 
 try what could be done by a contrary method, and accordingly 
 let them alone, without appearing to take the least notice of 
 them : this succeeded so well, that at length two of them came 
 in the canoe within a musket-shot of the ship, and there talked 
 a great deal in a very loud tone : we understood nothing that 
 they said, and therefore could answer their harangue only by 
 shouting, and making all the signs of invitation and kindness 
 that we could devise. During this conference they came insen- 
 sibly nearer and nearer, holding up their lances, not in a threat- 
 ening manner, but as if to intimate that if we offered them 
 any injury, they had weapons to revenge it. When they were 
 almost alongside of us, we threw them some cloth, nails, beads, 
 paper, and other trifles, which they received without the least 
 appearance of satisfaction : at last one of the people happened 
 to throw them a small fish; at this they expressed the greatest 
 joy imaginable, and intimating by signs that they would fetch 
 their companions, immediately paddled away towards the shore. 
 In the mean time, some of our people, and among them Tupia, 
 landed on the opposite side of the river : the canoe, with all the 
 four Indians, very soon returned to the ship, and came quite 
 alongside, without expressing any fear or distrust We distri- 
 
134 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 bated some more presents among them, and soon after they left 
 us, and landed on the same side of the river where onr people 
 had gone ashore : every man carried in his hand two lances, and 
 a stick, which is used in throwing them, and advanced to the 
 place where Tupia and the rest of our people were sitting. 
 Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their arms, and 
 come forward without them: he then made signs that they 
 should sit down by him, with which they complied, and seemed 
 to be under no apprehension or constraint : several more of us 
 then going ashore, they expressed some jealousy lest we should 
 get between them and their arms; we took care, however, to 
 show them that we had no such intention, and, having joined 
 them, we made them some more presents, as a farther testimony 
 of our goodwill, and our desire to obtain theirs. We continued 
 together, with the utmost cordiality, till dinner-time, and then 
 giving them to understand that we were going to eat, we in- 
 vited them by signs to go with us : this, however, they declined, 
 and as soon as we left them, they went away in their canoe. 
 One of these men was somewhat above the middle age, the other 
 three were young ; they were in general of the common stature, 
 but their limbs were remarkably small ; their skin was of the 
 colour of wood-soot, or what would be called a dark chocolate 
 colour ; their hair was black, but not woolly ; it was short- 
 cropped, in some lank, and in others curled. Dampier says 
 that the people whom he saw on the western coast of this coun- 
 try wanted two of their fore teeth, but these had no such defect: 
 some part of their bodies had been painted red, and the upper 
 lip and breast of one of them was painted with streaks of white, 
 which he called Carbanda ; their features were far from dis- 
 agreeable, their eyes were lively, and their teeth even and white ; 
 
First Voyage, 135 
 
 their voices were soft and tunable, and they repeated many 
 words after us with great facility. 
 
 The next morning we had another visit from four of the 
 natives ; three of them had been with us before, but the fourth 
 was a stranger, whose name, as we learned from his companions 
 who introduced him was Yaparico. This gentleman was dis- 
 tinguished by an ornament of a very striking appearance : it was 
 the bone of a bird, nearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or 
 six inches long, which he had thrust into a hole made in the 
 gristle that divides the nostrils ; of this we had seen one instance, 
 and only one, in New Zealand; but, upon examination, we 
 found that among all these people this part of the nose was per- 
 forated, to receive an ornament of the same kind: they had 
 also holes in their ears, though nothing was then hanging to 
 them, and had bracelets upon the upper part of their arms, made 
 of platted hair, so that, like the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, 
 they seem to be fond of ornament, though they are absolutely 
 without apparel ; and one of them, to whom I had given part of 
 an old shirt, instead of throwing it over any part of his body, 
 tied it as a fillet round his head. They brought with them a 
 fish, which they gave us, as we supposed, in return for the fish 
 that we had given them the day before. They seemed to be 
 much pleased, and in no haste to leave us ; but seeing some of 
 our gentlemen examine their canoe with great curiosity and 
 attention, they were alarmed, and jumping immediately into it, 
 paddled away without speaking a word. 
 
 We observed that all of them were remarkably clean-limbed, 
 and exceedingly active and nimble. One had a necklace of 
 shells, very prettily made, and a bracelet upon his arm, formed 
 of several strings, so as to resemble what in England is called 
 
136 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 gymp : others had a piece of bark tied over the forehead, and 
 were disfigured by the bone in the nose. We thought their lan- 
 guage more harsh than that of the islanders in the South Sea, 
 and they were continually repeating the word chercau, which we 
 imagined to be a term expressing admiration, by the manner in 
 which it was uttered : they also cried out, when they saw any- 
 thing new, cher, tut, tut, tut, tut ! which probably had a similar 
 signification. 
 
 The Ej^gaeoo. 
 
 Mr. Gore, who went out this day with his gun, had the good 
 fortune to kill one of the animals which had been so much the 
 subject of our speculation, the Kangaroo. In form, it is most 
 like the Jerboa, which it also resembles in its motion, as has 
 been observed already ; but it greatly differs in size, the Jerboa 
 not being larger than a common rat, and this animal, when full 
 grown, being as big as a sheep : this was a young one, much 
 under its full growth, weighing only thirty-eight pounds. The 
 head, neck, and shoulders are very small in proportion to the 
 other parts of the body ; the tail is nearly as long as the body, 
 thick near the rump, and tapering towards the end : the fore-legs 
 of this individual were only eight inches long, and the hind-legs 
 two-and-twenty : its progress is by successive leaps or hops, of 
 a great length, in an erect posture ; the fore-legs are kept bent 
 close to the breast, and seemed to be of use only for digging : the 
 skin is covered with a short fur, of a dark mouse or gray colour, 
 excepting the head and ears, which bear a slight resemblance to 
 those of a hare. 
 
First Voyage, 137 
 
 Ttjetle. 
 
 The next day our kangaroo was dressed for dinner, and 
 proved most excellent meat ; we might now indeed be said to 
 fare sumptuously every day ; for we had turtle in great plenty, 
 and we aU agreed that they were much better than any we had 
 tasted in England, which we imputed to their being eaten fresh 
 from the sea, before their natural fat had been wasted, or their 
 juices changed by a diet and situation so different from what the 
 sea affords them, as garbage and a tub. Most of those that we 
 caught here were of the kind called green turtle, and weighed 
 from two to three hundredweight, and when these were killed, 
 they were always found to be full of turtle grass, which our 
 naturalists took to be a kind of conferva : two of them were 
 logger-heads, the flesh of which was much less delicious, and in 
 their stomachs nothing was to be found but shells. 
 
 Affray with fHE Natives. 
 
 On the 19th, in the morning, we were visited by ten of the 
 natives, and, like all the rest of the people we had seen in this 
 country, they were stark naked. Our guests brought with them 
 a greater number of lances than they had ever done before, and 
 having laid them up in a tree, they set a man and a boy to watch 
 them : the rest then came on board, and we soon perceived that 
 they had determined to get one of our turtle, which was pro- 
 bably as great a dainty to them as to us. They first asked us 
 by signs to give them one ; and being refused, they expressed, 
 both by looks and gestures, great disappointment and anger. At 
 this time we happened to have no victuals dressed, but I offered 
 one of them some biscuit, which he snatched and threw over- 
 
138 CooJis Voyages. 
 
 board with great disdain, One of them renewed his request to 
 Mr. Banks, and upon a refusal stamped with his foot, and pushed 
 him. from him in a transport of resentment and indignation. 
 Having applied by turns to almost every person who appeared 
 to have any command in the ship, without success, they suddenly 
 seized two of the turtles and dragged them towards the side of 
 the ship where their canoe lay : our people soon forced them 
 out of their hands, and replaced them with the rest. They 
 would not however relinquish their enterprize, but made several 
 other attempts of the same kind, in all which being equally dis- 
 appointed, they suddenly leaped into their canoe in a rage, and 
 began to paddle towards the shore. At the same time, I went 
 into the boat with Mr. Banks and five or six of the ship's crew, 
 and we got ashore before them, where many more of our people 
 were already engaged in various employments. 
 
 As soon as they landed, they seized their arms, and before we 
 were aware of their design, they snatched a brand from under a 
 pitch-kettle which was boiling, and making a circuit to the wind- 
 ward of the few things we had on shore, they set fire to the grass 
 in their way, with surprising quickness and dexterity : the grass, 
 which was five or six feet high, and as dry as stubble, burnt 
 with amazing fury ; and the fire made a rapid progress towards 
 a tent of Mr. Banks's, which had been set up for Tupia when he 
 was sick, taking in its course a sow and pigs, one of which it 
 scorched to death. Mr. Banks leaped into a boat, and fetched 
 some people from on board, just time enough to save his tent, 
 by hauling it down upon the beach ; but the smith's forge, at 
 least such part of it as would burn, was consumed. While this 
 was doing, the Indians went to a place at some distance, where 
 several of our people were washing, and where our nets, among 
 
First Voyage, 139 
 
 which was the seine and a great quantity of linen, were laid out 
 to dry ; here they again set fire to the grass, entirely disregard- 
 ing both threats and entreaties. We were therefore obliged to 
 discharge a musket, loaded with small shot, at one of them, 
 which drew blood at the distance of about forty yards, and thus 
 putting them to flight, we extinguished the fire at this place be- 
 fore it had made much progress ; but where the grass had been 
 first kindled, it spread into the woods to a great distance. As 
 the Indians were still in sight, I fired a musket, charged with 
 ball, abreast of them among the mangroves, to convince them 
 that they were not yet out of our reach : upon hearing the ball 
 they quickened their pace, and we soon lost sight of them. We 
 thought they would now give us no more trouble ; but soon after 
 we heard their voices in the woods, and perceived that they came 
 nearer and nearer. I set out, therefore, with Mr. Banks, and 
 three or four more to meet them. When our parties came in 
 sight of each other, they halted, except one old man, who came 
 forward to meet us : at length he stopped, and having uttered 
 some words, which we were very sorry we could not understand, 
 he went back to his companions, and the whole body slowly re- 
 treated. We found means, however, to seize some of their darts, 
 and continued to follow them about a mile : we then sat down 
 upon some rocks, from which we could observe their motions, 
 and they also sat down at about a hundred yards' distance. 
 After a short time, the old man again advanced towards us, cai^ 
 rying in his hand a lance without a point ; he stopped several 
 times, at different distances, and spoke ; we answered by beckon- 
 ing, and making such signs of amity as we could devise ; upon 
 which the messenger of peace, as we supposed him to be, turned 
 and spoke aloud to his companions, who then set up their lances 
 
140 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 against a tree, and advanced towards ns in a friendly manner : 
 when they came up, we returned the darts or lances that we had 
 taken from them, and we perceived with great satisfaction that 
 this rendered the reconciliation complete. We found in this 
 party four persons whom we had never seen before, who as usual 
 were introduced to us by name ; but the man who had been 
 wounded in the attempt to burn our nets and linen was not 
 among them ; we knew, however, that he could not be danger- 
 ously hurt, by the distance at which the shot reached him. We 
 made all of them presents of such trinkets as we had about us, 
 and they walked back with us towards the ship. As we went 
 along, they told us, by signs, that they would not set fire to the 
 grass any more ; and we distributed among them some musket- 
 balls, and endeavoured to make them understand their use and 
 effect. When they came abreast of the ship, they sat down, but 
 could not be prevailed upon to come on board ; we therefore 
 left them, and in about two hours they went away, soon after 
 which we perceived the woods on fire at about two miles' dis- 
 tance. If this accident had happened a very little while sooner, the 
 consequence might have been dreadful ; for our powder had been 
 aboard but a few days, and the store-tent, with many valuable 
 things which it contained, had not been removed many hours. 
 We had no idea of the fury with which grass would burn in this 
 hot climate, nor consequently of the difficulty of extinguishing 
 it ; but we determined that if it should ever again be necessary 
 for us to pitch our tents in such a situation, our first measure 
 should be to clear the ground round us. 
 
First Voyage. 141 
 
 Depaetuke feom the Coast of New South Wales. 
 
 Having got everything on board the ship, new berthed her, 
 and let her swing with the tide ; at night the master returned 
 with the discouraging account that there was no passage for the 
 ship to the northward. 
 
 The next morning, at low water, I went and sounded and 
 buoyed the bar, the ship being now ready for sea. 
 
 At six o'clock in the morning of Friday, 3d August, we made 
 a second unsuccessful attempt to warp the ship out of the har- 
 bour ; but at five o'clock in the morning of the 4th, our efforts 
 had a better effect, and about seven we got once more under 
 sail, with a light air from the land, which soon died away, and 
 was followed by the sea-breezes from S.E. by S., with which we 
 stood off to sea, having the pinnace ahead, which was ordered 
 to keep sounding continually. To the harbour which we had 
 now left, I gave the name of 
 
 Endeavour Kiver. 
 
 Entangled among the Shoals. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 4th, we had a gentle breeze at S.E., 
 and clear weather ; but as I did not intend to sail till the morn- 
 ing, I sent all the boats to the reef to get what turtle and shell- 
 fish they could. At low-water I went up to the mast-head, and 
 took a view of the shoals, which made a very threatening ap- 
 pearance : I could see several at a remote distance, and part of 
 many of them was above water. 
 
 In the morning of the 6th we had a strong gale, so that we 
 
142 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 were obliged to veer away more cable, and strike our top-gallant 
 yards. At low water, myself, with several of the officers, kept a 
 look out at the mast-head, to see if any passage could be dis- 
 covered between the shoals, but nothing was in view except 
 breakers, and out to sea beyond the reach of our sight. Con- 
 vinced that there was no passage but through the labyrinth 
 formed by these shoals, I was altogether at a loss which way to 
 steer, when the weather should permit us to get under sail. It 
 was the master's opinion, that we should beat back the way we 
 came, but this would have been an endless labour, as the wind 
 blew strongly from that quarter, almost without intermission ; 
 on the other hand, if no passage could be found to the north- 
 ward, we should be compelled to take that measure at last. 
 These anxious deliberations engaged us till eleven o'clock at 
 night, when the ship drove, and obliged us to veer away to a 
 cable and one-tliird, which brought her up ; but in the morning, 
 the gale increasing, she drove again, and we therefore let go the 
 the small bower, and veered away to a whole cable upon it, and 
 two cables on the other anchors, yet she still drove, though not 
 so fast ; we then got down top-gallant masts, and struck the 
 yards and top-masts close down, and at last had the satisfaction 
 to find that she rode. As the gale continued, with little remis- 
 sion, we rode till seven o'clock in the morning of the 10th, when, 
 it being more moderate, we weighed, and stood in for the land, 
 having at length determined to seek a passage along the shore 
 to the northward, still keeping the small boat sounding ahead. 
 At noon we were got between the headland and three islands : 
 from the headland we were distant two leagues, and from the 
 islands four. We now thought we saw a clear opening before 
 us, and hoped that we were once more out of danger ; in this 
 
First Voyage. 143 
 
 hope, however, we soon found ourselves disappointed, and for 
 that reason I called the headland 
 
 Cape Flattery. 
 
 As soon as I got down from the mast-head, the master and 
 some others went up, who all insisted that the land ahead was 
 not islands, as I thought, but the main, and to make their report 
 still more alarming, they said that they saw breakers all round 
 us. In this dilemma we hauled upon a wind in for the land, 
 and made the signal for the boat that was sounding ahead to 
 come on board, but as she was far to leeward, we were obliged 
 to edge away to take her up, and soon after we came to an 
 anchor, under a poiut of the main, which I called Point Look-out, 
 in somewhat less than five fathom, and at about the distance of 
 a mile from the shore. I went ashore upon the point. Upon 
 this point, which was high and narrow, and consisted of the 
 finest white sand we had ever seen, we discovered the footsteps 
 of people, and we saw also smoke and fire at a distance up the 
 country. 
 
 In the evening I returned to the ship, and resolved the next 
 morning to visit one of the high islands in the offing, from the 
 top of which, as they lay five leagues out to sea, I hoped to dis- 
 cover more distinctly the situation of the shoals, and the channel 
 between them. 
 
 In the morning, therefore, of the 11th I set out in the pinnace, 
 accompanied by Mr. Banks (whose fortitude and curiosity made 
 him a party in every expedition), for the northernmost and largest 
 of these islands. On reaching it, we immediately ascended the 
 highest hill, with a mixture of hope and fear, proportioned to the 
 importance of our business, and the uncertainty of the event. 
 
144 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 When I looked round, I discovered a reef of rocks l3dng between 
 two and three leagues without the islands, and extending in a 
 line farther than I could see, upon which the sea broke in a 
 dreadful surf ; this, however, made me think that there were no 
 shoals beyond them, and I conceived hopes of getting without 
 these, as I perceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and 
 deep water between that and the islands. I continued upon this 
 hill till sunset, but the weather was so hazy during the whole 
 time, that I came down much disappointed. After reflecting 
 upon what I had seen, and comparing the intelligence I had 
 gained with what I expected, I determined to stay upon the 
 island all night, hoping that the morning might be clearer, and 
 afford me a more distinct and comprehensive view. We there- 
 fore took up our lodging under the shelter of a bush which gi'ew 
 upon the beach, and at three in the morning, having sent the 
 pinnace with one of the mates whom I had brought out with 
 me to sound between the island and the reefs, and examine what 
 appeared to be a channel through them, I climbed the hill a 
 second time, but to my great disappointment found the weather 
 much more hazy than it had been the day before. About noon 
 the pinnace returned, having been as far as the reef, and found 
 between fifteen and twenty-eight fathom of water ; but it blew 
 so hard that the mate did not dare to venture into one of the 
 channels, which he said appeared to him to be very narrow : this, 
 however, did not discourage me, for I judged from his description 
 of the place he had been at, that he had seen it to disadvantage. 
 While I was busy in my survey, Mr. Banks was attentive to his 
 favourite pursuit, and picked up several plants which he had 
 not before seen ; and as we saw no animals upon this place but 
 lizards, I called it Lizard Island. 
 
First Voyage, 145 
 
 Eeturning to the ship, we landed in our way upon a low 
 sandy island with trees upon it, upon which we saw an incredible 
 number of sea-fowl : we found also the nest of an eagle, with 
 young ones, which we killed ; and the nest of some other bird, 
 we knew not what, of a most enormous size : it was built with 
 sticks upon the ground, and was no less than six-and-twenty feet 
 in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. We found 
 that this, as well as the other island, had been visited by the 
 Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of which we saw upon the 
 island, and a great number of their shells, piled one upon 
 another in different places. To this spot we gave the name of 
 Eagle Island. 
 
 After considering what I hkd seen myseK, and the report of 
 the master, who had been down to the low islands, I was of 
 opinion that the passage to leeward would be dangerous, and 
 that, by keeping in with the main, we should run the risk of 
 being locked in by the great reef, and at last be compelled to 
 return back in search of another passage, by which, or any other 
 accident that should cause the same delay, we should infallibly 
 lose our passage to the East Indies, and endanger the ruin of the 
 voyage, as we had now but little more than three months' pro- 
 visions on board at short allowance. Having stated this opinion, 
 and the facts and appearances upon which it was founded, to the 
 officers, it was unanimously agreed, that the best thing we could 
 do would be to quit the coast altogether, till we could approach 
 it with less danger. 
 
 In the morning, therefore, at break of day, we got under sail, 
 and stood out for the north-west end of Lizard Island, leaving 
 Eagle Island to windward, and some other islands and shoals to 
 the leeward, and having the pinnace ahead to ascertain the depth 
 
 L 
 
146 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 of water in every part of our course. As soon as we had got with- 
 out the breakers, we had no ground with one hundred and fifty- 
 fathom, and found a large sea rolling in from the S.E., a certain 
 sign that neither land nor shoals were near us in that direction. 
 
 Hopes and Feaes. 
 
 Our change of situation was now visible in every countenance, 
 for it was most sensibly felt in every breast : we had been little 
 less than three months entangled among shoals and rocks, that 
 every moment threatened us with destruction ; frequently passing 
 our nights at anchor within hearing of the surge that broke over 
 them ; sometimes driving towards them even while our anchors 
 were out, and knowing that if by any accident, to which an 
 almost continual tempest exposed us, they should not hold, we 
 must in a few minutes inevitably perish. But now, after having 
 sailed no less than three hundred and sixty leagues, without once 
 having a man out of the chains heaving the lead, even for a 
 minute, which perhaps never happened to any other vessel, we 
 found ourselves in an open sea, with deep water ; and enjoyed a 
 flow of spirits, which was equally owing to our late dangers and 
 our present security : yet the very waves, which by their swell 
 convinced us that we had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced us 
 also that we could not safely put the same confidence in our vessel 
 as before she had struck ; for the blows she received from them 
 so widened her leaks, that she admitted no less than nine inches 
 water an hour, which, considering the state of our pumps, and the 
 navigation that was still before us, would have been a subject 
 of more serious consideration to people whose danger had not so 
 lately been so much more imminent. 
 
 When we had stood about two miles it fell calm ; we had 
 
First Voyage. 147 
 
 sounded several times during the night, but had no bottom with 
 one hundred and forty fathom, neither had we any ground now 
 with the same length of line ; yet, about four in the morning, we 
 plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it 
 foaming to a vast height, at not more than a mile's distance. Our 
 distress now returned upon us with double force ; the waves, 
 which rolled in upon the reef, carried us towards it very fast ; we 
 could reach no ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of 
 wind for the sail. In this dreadful situation, no resource was left 
 us but the boats ; and to aggravate our misfortune, the pinnace 
 was under repair : the long-boat and yawl, however, were put into 
 the water, and sent ahead to tow, which, by the help of our sweeps 
 abaft, got the ship's head round to the northward ; which, if it 
 could not prevent our destruction, might at least delay it. But 
 it was six o'clock before this was effected, and we were not then 
 a hundred yards from the rock upon which the same billow which 
 washed the side of the ship, broke to a tremendous height the 
 very next time it rose ; so that 
 
 Between us and destruction there was only a dreary valley, 
 no wider than the base of one wave ; 
 
 And even now the sea under us was unfathomable, at least no 
 bottom was to be found with a hundred and twenty fathom. 
 During this scene of distress the carpenter had found means to 
 patch up the pinnace ; so that she was hoisted out, and sent 
 ahead, in aid of the other boats, to tow ; but all our efforts 
 would have been ineffectual, if, just at this crisis of our 
 fate, a light air of wind had not sprung up — so light, that 
 at any other time we should not have observed it, but which 
 was enough to turn the scale in our favour, and, in conjunction 
 
148 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 witli the assistance which was afforded us by the boats, to give 
 the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. 
 
 Our hopes now revived ; but in less than ten minutes it was 
 again a dead calm, and the ship was again driven towards the 
 breakers, which were not now two hundred yards distant. The 
 same light breeze, however, returned before we had lost all the 
 ground it had enabled us to gain, and lasted about ten minutes 
 more. During this time we discovered a small opening in the 
 reef, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile : I immediately 
 sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported that its breadth 
 was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it there 
 was smooth water : this discovery seemed to render our escape 
 possible, and that was all, by pushing the ship through the 
 opening, which was immediately attempted. It was uncertain, 
 indeed, whether we could reach it ; but if we should succeed 
 thus far, we made no doubt of being able to get through : in this, 
 however, we were disappointed, for having reached it by the joint 
 assistance of our boats and the breeze, we found that in the mean- 
 time it had become high water, and to our great surprise we met 
 the tide of ebb rushing out of it like a mill-stream. We gained, 
 however, some advantage, though in a manner directly contrary 
 to our expectations ; we found it impossible to go through the 
 opening, but the stream that prevented us, carried us out about 
 a quarter of a mile ; it was too narrow for us to keep in it longer ; 
 yet this tide of ebb so much assisted the boats, that by noon we 
 had got an offing of near two miles. We had, however, reason to 
 despair of deliverance, even if the breeze, which had now died away, 
 should revive, for we were still embayed in the reef ; and the tide 
 of ebb being spent, the tide of flood, notwithstanding our utmost 
 efforts, again drove the ship into the bight. About this time, 
 
I 
 
 First Voyage, 149 
 
 however, we saw another opening, near a mile to the westward, 
 which I immediately sent Hicks, first lieutenant, in a small hoat 
 to examine : in the meantime we struggled hard with the flood, 
 sometimes gaining a little, and sometimes losing ; but every man 
 still did his duty, with as much calmness and regularity as if no 
 danger had been near. About two o'clock Hicks returned, with 
 an account that the opening was narrow and dangerous, but that 
 it might be passed : the possibility of passing it was sufficient 
 encouragement to make the attempt, for aU danger was less im- 
 minent than that of our present situation. A light breeze now 
 sprung up, with which, by the help of our boats, and the very 
 tide of flood that, without an opening, would have been our 
 destruction, we entered it, and were hurried through with amaz- 
 ing rapidity, by a torrent that kept us from driving against 
 either side of the channel, which was not more than a quarter of 
 a mile in breadth. While we were shooting this gulf, our 
 soundings were from thirty to seven fathom, very irregular, and 
 the ground at bottom very fouL* As soon as we had got within 
 the reef, we anchored in nineteen fathom, over a bottom of coral 
 and shells. 
 
 Danger in Navigating Unknown Seas. 
 
 And now, such is the vicissitude of life, we thought ourselves 
 happy in having regained a situation which, but two days before, 
 it was the utmost object of our hope to quit. Rocks and shoals 
 are always dangerous to the mariner, even where their situation 
 has been ascertained ; they are more dangerous in seas which 
 
 * ** In this truly terrible situation not one man ceased to do his utmost, and 
 that with as much calmness as if no danger had been near. " — Extract, Cajptain 
 Cook's Journal — Records, Admiralty, Whitehall^ p. 289. 
 
150 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 have never before been navigated, and in this part of the globe 
 they are more dangerous than in any other ; for here they are 
 reefs of coral rock, rising like a wall almost perpendicularly out 
 of the unfathomable deep, always overflowed at high water, and 
 at low water dry in many places ; and here the enormous waves 
 of the vast Southern Ocean meeting with so abrupt a resistance, 
 break, with inconceivable violence, in a surf which no rocks or 
 storms in the northern hemisphere can produce. The danger of 
 navigating unknown parts of this ocean was now greatly increased 
 by our having a crazy ship, and being short of provisions and 
 every other necessary ; yet the distinction of a first discoverer 
 made us cheerfully encounter every danger, and submit to every 
 inconvenience : and we chose rather to incur the censure of im- 
 prudence and temerity, which the idle and voluptuous so liberally 
 bestow upon unsuccessful fortitude and perseverance, than leave 
 a country which we had discovered unexplored, and give coloui 
 to a charge of timidity and irresolution. 
 
 Having now congratulated ourselves upon getting within the 
 reef, notwithstanding we had so lately congratulated ourselves 
 upon getting without it, I resolved to keep the main land on 
 board in my future route to the northward, whatever the conse- 
 quence might be ; for if we had now gone without the reef again, 
 it might have carried us so far from the coast as to prevent my 
 being able to determine, whether this country did, or did not join 
 to New Guinea ; a question which I was determined to resolve 
 from my first coming within sight of land. 
 
 The next morning we again got under sail, and stood away to 
 the KW., having two boats ahead to direct us ; our soundings 
 were very irregular, varying five or six fathom every cast, between 
 ten and twenty-seven. 
 
First Voyage. 151 
 
 Passing through numerous channels, we at length anchored in 
 a passage among a group of islands, on one of which we resolved to 
 go ashore. We immediately climbed the highest hill, which was 
 not more than three times as high as the mast-head, and the most 
 barren of any we had seen. From this hill, no land could be seen 
 between the S.W. and W.S.W., so that I had no doubt of finding 
 a channel through. The land to the north-west of it consisted of 
 a great number of islands of various extent, and different heights, 
 ranged one behind another, as far to the northward and westward 
 as I could see, which could not be less than thirteen leagues. 
 
 Taking Possession of New South Wales. 
 
 As I was now about to quit the eastern coast of New Holland, 
 which I had coasted from latitude 38 to this place, and which I 
 am confident no European had ever seen before, I once more 
 hoisted English colours, and though I had already taken posses- 
 sion of several particular parts, I now took possession of the whole 
 eastern coast, from latitude 38° to this place, latitude 10 1.° S., in 
 right of his Majesty King George III., by the name of New 
 South Wales, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands 
 situated upon it : we then fired three volleys of small arms, 
 which were answered by the same number from the ship. 
 Having performed this ceremony upon the island, we called it 
 Possession Island. 
 
 Description of N. S. Wales. 
 
 New Holland, or, as I have now called the eastern coast, New 
 South Wales, is of a larger extent than any other country in the 
 known world that does not bear the name of a continent ; the 
 
152 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 length of coast along wliich we sailed, reduced to a straight line, 
 is no less than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting to 
 near 2000 miles, so that its square surface must be much more 
 than equal to all Europe. To the southward of 33 or 34, the 
 land in general is low and level ; farther northward it is hilly, 
 but in no part can be called mountainous ; and the hills and 
 mountains, taken together, make but a small part of the surface, 
 in comparison with the valleys and plains. It is, upon the whole, 
 rather barren than fertile : yet the rising ground is chequered by 
 woods and lawns, and the plains and valleys are in many places 
 covered with herbage : the soil, however, is frequently sandy, 
 and many of the lawns, or savannahs, are rocky and barren, 
 especially to the northward, where, in the best spots, vegetation 
 was less vigorous than in the southern part of the country ; the 
 trees were not so tall, nor was the herbage so rich. The grass 
 in general is high, but thin, and the trees, where they are largest, 
 are seldom less than fifty feet asunder ; nor is the country inland, 
 as far as we could examine it, better clothed than the sea-coast. 
 The banks of the bays are covered with mangroves, to the distance 
 of a mile within the beach, under which the soil is a rank mud, 
 that is always overflowed by a spring-tide ; farther in the country 
 we sometimes met with a bog, upon which the grass was very 
 thick and luxuriant, and sometimes with a valley, that was 
 clothed with underwood : the soil in some parts seemed to 
 be capable of improvement, but the far greater part is such as 
 can admit of no cultivation. The coast, at least that part of 
 it which lies to the northward of 25° S., abounds with fine bays 
 and harbours, where vessels may lie in perfect security from all 
 winds. 
 
 If we may judge by the appearance of the country while we 
 
First Voyage, 153 
 
 were there, which was in the very height of the dry season, it is 
 well watered : we found innumerable small brooks and springs, 
 but no great rivers ; these brooks, however, probably become 
 large in the rainy season. Thirsty Sound was the only place 
 where fresh water was not to be procured for the ship, and even 
 there one or two small pools were found in the woods, though the 
 face of the country was everywhere intersected by salt creeks and 
 mangrove land. 
 
 Of trees, there is no great variety. Of those that could be 
 called timber, there are but two sorts : the largest is the gum-tree, 
 which grows all over the country, and has been mentioned already : 
 it has narrow leaves, not much unlike a willow ; and the gum, 
 or rather resin, which it yields, is of a deep red, and resembles 
 the sanguis draconis ; possibly it may be the same, for this sub- 
 stance is known to be the produce of more than one plant. It 
 is mentioned by Dampier, and is perhaps the same that Tasman 
 found upon Diemen's Land, where he says he saw " gum of the 
 trees, and gum lac of the ground." The other timber tree is 
 that which grows somewhat like our pines. The wood of both 
 these trees, as I have before remarked, is extremely hard and 
 heavy. Besides these, there are trees covered with a soft bark 
 that is easily peeled off, and is the same that in the East Indies 
 is used for calking of ships. 
 
 We found here the palm of three different sorts. The first, 
 which grows in great plenty to the southward, has leaves that are 
 platted like a fan : the cabbage of these is small, but exquisitely 
 sweet ; and the nuts, which it bears in great abundance, are very 
 good food for hogs. The second sort bore a much greater resem- . 
 blance to the true cabbage-tree of the West Indies ; its leaves 
 were large and pinnated, like those of the cocoa-nut ; and these 
 
154 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 also produced a cabbage, which, though not so sweet as the other, 
 was much larger. The third sort, which, like the second, was 
 found only in the northern parts, was seldom more than ten feet 
 high, with small pinnated leaves, resembling those of some kind of 
 fern : it bore no cabbage, but a plentiful crop of nuts, about the 
 size of a large chesnut, but rounder. 
 
 There are plants in great variety to enrich the collection of 
 a botanist, but very few of them are of the esculent kind. A 
 small plant, with long, narrow, grassy leaves, resembling that kind 
 of bulrush which in England is called the Cat's-tail, yields a resin 
 of a bright yellow colour, exactly resembling gamboge, except 
 that it does not stain ; it has a sweet smell, but its properties we 
 had no opportunity to discover, any more than those of many 
 others with which the natives appear to be acquainted, as they 
 have distinguished them by names. 
 
 The Australian Ant. 
 
 Among other reptiles, here are serpents. The principal 
 insects are the mosquito and the ant. Of the ant there are 
 several sorts ; some are as green as a leaf, and live upon trees, 
 where they build their nests of various sizes, between that of a 
 man's head and his fist. These nests are of a very curious struc- 
 ture : they are formed by bending down several of the leaves, 
 each of which is as broad as a man's hand, and gluing the points 
 of them together, so as to form a purse ; the viscus used for this 
 purpose is an animal juice, which nature has enabled them to 
 elaborate. Their method of first bending down the leaves, we 
 had not an opportunity to observe ; but we saw thousands uniting 
 all their strength to hold them in this position, while other busy 
 multitudes were employed within, in applying the gluten that was 
 
First Voyage. 155 
 
 to prevent their returning back. To satisfy ourselves that the 
 leaves were bent and held down by the efforts of these diminutive 
 artificers, we disturbed them in their work, and as soon as they 
 were driven from their station, the leaves on which they were 
 employed sprung up with a force much greater than we could 
 have thought them able to conquer by any combination of their 
 strength. But, though we gratified our curiosity at their expense, 
 the injury did not go unrevenged ; for thousands immediately 
 threw themselves upon us, and gave us intolerable pain with 
 their stings, especially those who took possession of our necks and 
 our hair, from whence they were not easily driven : the sting 
 was scarcely less painful than that of a bee ; but, except it was 
 repeated, the pain did not last more than a minute. 
 
 Another sort are quite black, and their operations and manner 
 of life are not less extraordinary. Their habitations are the inside 
 of the branches of a tree, which they contrive to excavate by work- 
 ing out the pith almost to the extremity of the slenderest twig ; 
 the tree at the same time flourishing, as if it had no such inmate. 
 When we first found the tree we gathered some of the branches, 
 and were scarcely less astonished than we should have been to 
 find that we had profaned a consecrated grove, where every tree, 
 upon being wounded, gave signs of life ; for we were instantly 
 covered with legions of these animals, swarming from every 
 broken bough, and inflicting their stings with incessant violence. 
 
 A third kind we found nested in the root of a plant, which 
 grows on the bark of trees in the manner of mistletoe, and which 
 they had perforated for that use. 
 
 We found a fourth kind, which are perfectly harmless, and 
 almost exactly resemble the white ants of the East Indies ; the 
 architecture of these is still more curious than that of the others. 
 
156 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 They have houses of two sorts ; one is suspended on the branches 
 of trees, and the other erected upon the ground : those upon the 
 trees are about three or four times as big as a man's head, and 
 are built of a brittle substance, which seems to consist of small 
 parts of vegetables kneaded together with a glutinous matter, 
 which their bodies probably supply : upon breaking this crust, 
 innumerable cells, swarming with inhabitants, appear in a great 
 variety of winding directions, all communicating with each other, 
 and with several apertures that lead to other nests upon the same 
 tree ; they have also one large avenue, or covered way, leading 
 to the ground, and carried on under it to the other nest or house 
 that is constructed there. This house is generally at the root of 
 a tree, but not of that upon which their other dwellings are con- 
 structed : it is formed like an irregularly-sided cone, and some- 
 times is more than six feet high, and nearly as much in diameter. 
 Some are smaller ; and these are generally flat-sided, and very 
 much resemble in figure the stones which are seen in many parts 
 of England, and supposed to be the remains of druidical antiquity. 
 The outside of these is of well-tempered clay, about two inches 
 thick ; and within are the cells, which have no opening outwards, 
 but communicate only with the subterranean way to the houses 
 on the tree, and to the tree near which they are constructed, where 
 they ascend up the root, and so up the trunk and branches, under 
 covered ways of the same kind as those by which they de- 
 scended from their other dwellings. To these structures on the 
 ground they probably retire in the winter, or rainy seasons, as 
 they are proof against any wet that can fall ; which those in 
 the tree, though generally constructed under some overhanging 
 branch, from the nature and thinness of their crust or wall, 
 cannot be. 
 
First Voyage. 157 
 
 The sea is mucli more liberal of food to the inhabitants than 
 the land ; and though fish is not quite so plenty here as they 
 generally are in higher latitudes, yet we seldom hauled the seine 
 without taking from fifty to two hundred weight. They are of 
 various sorts ; but except the mullet, and some of the shellfish, 
 none of them are known in Europe : most of them are palatable, 
 and some are very delicious. Upon the shoals and reef there are 
 incredible numbers of the finest green turtle in the world, and 
 oysters of various kinds, particularly the rock oyster and the pearl- 
 oyster. The gigantic cockles have been already mentioned. 
 
 The Natives. 
 
 The only tribe with which we had any intercourse we found 
 where the ship was careened : it consisted of one-and-twenty 
 persons — twelve men, seven women, one boy, and one girl : the 
 women we never saw but at a distance* for when the men came 
 over the river they were always left behind. The men, here and 
 in other places, were of a middle size, and in general well made, 
 clean-limbed, and remarkably vigorous, active, and nimble ; their 
 countenances were not altogether without expression, and their 
 voices were remarkably soft and effeminate. 
 
 Their skins were so uniformly covered with dirt, that it was 
 very difficult to ascertain their true colour : we made several 
 attempts, by wetting our fingers and rubbing it, to remove the 
 incrustations, but with very little effect. With the dirt, they 
 appear nearly as black as a negro, and according to our best dis- 
 coveries, the skin itself is of the colour of wood soot, or what is 
 commonly called a chocolate colour. Their features- are far from 
 being disagi*eeable ; their noses are not flat, nor are their lips 
 thick ; their teeth are white and even, and their hair naturally 
 
158 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 long and black, it is, however, universally cropped short ; in gen- 
 eral, it is straight, but sometimes it has a slight curl ; we saw 
 none that was not matted and filthy, though without oil or grease, 
 and to our great astonishment free from lice. Their beards were 
 of the same colour with their hair, and bushy and thick ; they 
 are not, however, suiSered to grow long. A man, whom we had 
 seen one day with his beard somewhat longer than his compan- 
 ions, we saw the next with it somewhat shorter, and upon 
 examination found the ends of the hairs burnt ; from this 
 incident, and our having never seen any sharp instrument among 
 them, we concluded that both the hair and the beard were kept 
 short by singeing them. 
 
 Their principal ornament is the bone which they thrust 
 through the cartilage that divides the nostrils from each other. 
 What perversion of taste could make them think this a decoration, 
 or what could prompt them, before they had worn it or seen it 
 worn, to suffer the pain and inconvenience that must of necessity 
 attend it, is perhaps beyond the power of human sagacity to de- 
 termine. As this bone is as thick as a man's finger, and between 
 five and six inches long, it reaches quite across the face, and so 
 effectually stops up both the nostrils, that they are forced to keep 
 their mouths wide open for breath, and snuffle so when they 
 attempt to speak, that they are scarcely intelligible even to each 
 other. Our seamen, with some humour, called it their spritsail- 
 yard ; and, indeed, it had so ludicrous an appearance, that till we 
 were used to it, we found it difficult to refrain from laughter. 
 
 Though these people wear no clothes, their bodies have a 
 covering besides the dirt, for they paint them both white and red : 
 the red is commonly laid on in broad patches upon the shoulders 
 and breast, and the white in stripes, some narrow, and some broad : 
 
First Voyage. 159 
 
 the narrow were drawn over the limbs, and the broad over the 
 body, not without some degree of taste. The white was also laid 
 on in small patches upon the face, and drawn in a circle round 
 each eye. The red seemed to be ochre, but what the white w^as 
 we could not discover : it was close-grained, saponaceous to the 
 touch, and almost as heavy as white lead ; possibly it might be 
 a kind of Steatites, but to our great regret we could not procure a 
 bit of it to examine. They have holes in their ears, but we 
 never saw anything worn in them. 
 
 Upon their bodies we saw no marks of disease or sores, but 
 large scars in irregular lines, which appeared to be the remains 
 of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves with some 
 blunt instrument, and which we understood by signs to have been 
 memorials of grief for the dead. 
 
 They appeared to have no fixed habitations, for we saw nothing 
 like a town or village in the whole country. Their houses, if 
 houses they may be called, seemed to be formed with less art and 
 industry than any we had seen, except the wretched hovels at 
 Terra del Fuego, and in some respects they are inferior even 
 to them. At Botany Bay, where they were best, they were 
 just high enough for a man to sit upright in, but not large 
 enough for him to extend himself in his whole length in 
 any direction : they are built with pliable rods about as 
 thick as a man's finger, in the form of an oven, by sticking 
 the two ends into the ground, and then covering them with 
 palm-leaves and broad pieces of bark : the door is nothing 
 but a large hole at one end, opposite to which the fire is made, as 
 we perceived by the ashes. Under these houses or sheds, they 
 sleep, coiled up with their heels to their head, and in this posi- 
 tion one of them will hold three or four persons. 
 
i6o Cook's Voyages, 
 
 Manner of Peoducing Fire. 
 
 They produce fire with great facility, and spread it in a 
 wonderful manner. To produce it they take two pieces of dry 
 soft wood — one is a stick about eight or nine inches long, the 
 other piece is flat : the stick they shape into an obtuse point at 
 one end, and pressing it upon the other, turning it nimbly by 
 holding it between both their hands as we do a chocolate mill, 
 often shifting their hands up, and then moving them down upon 
 it, to increase the pressure as much as possible * By this method 
 they get fire in less than two minutes, and from the smallest 
 spark, they increase it with great speed and dexterity. We have 
 often seen one of them run along the shore to aU appearance 
 with nothing in his hand, who stooping down for a moment, at 
 the distance of every fifty or hundred yards, left fire behind liim, 
 as we could see first by the smoke, and then by the flame among 
 the drift wood, and other litter which was scattered along the 
 place. We had the curiosity to examine one of these planters 
 of fire, when he set off, and we saw him wrap up a small spark 
 in dry grass, which, when he had run a little way, having been 
 fanned by the air that his motion produced, began to blaze ; he 
 then laid it down in a place convenient for his purpose, 
 inclosing a spark of it in another quantity of grass, and so con- 
 tinued his course. 
 
 There are perhaps few things in the history of mankind more 
 extraordinary than the discovery and application of fire : it will 
 scarcely be disputed that the manner of producing it, whether 
 
 * Similar implements (obtained from the Esquimaux in Pond's Bay, by Sir 
 Edward Belcher, C.B.) may be seen in the "Arctic Collection" presented by Mr 
 Barrow to the British Museum, and deposited in the Ethnographical Room. 
 
First Voyage, i6i 
 
 by collision or attrition, was discovered by chance : but its iBrst 
 effects would naturally strike those to whom it was a new object 
 with consternation and terror : it would appear to be an enemy 
 to life and nature, and to torment and destroy whatever was cap- 
 able of being destroyed or tormented ; and therefore it seems not 
 easy to conceive what should incline those who first saw it 
 receive a transient existence from chance, to reproduce it by 
 design. 
 
 Their weapons are spears or lances, of different kinds : some 
 that we saw upon the southern part of the coast had four prongs, 
 pointed with bone, and barbed ; the points were also smeared 
 with a hard resin, which gave them a polish, and made them 
 enter deeper into what they struck. These are thrown with 
 great force and dexterity : if intended to wound at a short dis- 
 tance, between ten and twenty yards, simply with the hand ; but 
 if at the distance of forty or fifty, with an instrument which we 
 called a throwing stick. They have shields made of the bark of 
 a tree : one of these was fetched out of a hub by one of the men 
 that opposed our landing, who, when he ran away, left it behind 
 him, and upon taking it up, we found that it had been pierced 
 through with a single-pointed lance near the centre. 
 
 Eeturn to England by New Guinea and Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 At this time we made sail and stood to the north, in order to 
 make the land of New Guinea, and it is sufficient to say, that we 
 continued our course to the northward with very shallow water, 
 upon a bank of mud, at such a distance from the shore as that 
 it could scarcely be seen from the ship, till the 3d of September. 
 Duiing this time we made many attempts to get near enough to 
 go on shore, but without success ; and having now lost six days 
 
 ■ 
 
1 62 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 of fair wind, at a time when we knew the south-east monsoon to 
 he nearly at an end, we began to he impatient of farther delay, 
 and determined to run the ship in as near to the shore as possible, 
 and then land with the pinnace, while she kept plying ofi' and on, 
 to examine the produce of the country, and the disposition of the 
 inhabitants. For the last two days we had early in the morning 
 a light breeze from the shore, which was strongly impregnated 
 with the fragrance of the trees, shrubs, and herbage that covered 
 it, the smell being something like that of Gum Benjamin. On 
 the 3d of September, at daybreak, we saw the land at about four 
 leagues' distance, and we then kept standing in for it with a fresh 
 gale till nine o'clock, when being within about three or four 
 miles of it, and in three fathom water, we brought to. The 
 pinnace being hoisted out, I set off from the ship with the boat's 
 crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, who also took his servants, 
 and Dr. Solander, being in all twelve persons well armed ; we 
 rowed directly towards the shore, but the water was so shallow 
 that we could not reach it by about two hundred yards : we 
 waded, however, the rest of the way, having left two of the sea- 
 men to take care of the boat. 
 
 Alarming Attack by Savages. 
 
 Hitherto we had seen no signs of inhabitants at this place ; 
 but as soon as we got ashore we discovered the prints of human 
 feet, which could not long have been impressed upon the sand, 
 as they were below high-water mark : we therefore concluded 
 that the people were at no great distance, and, as a thick wood 
 came down within a hundred yards of the water, we thought it 
 necessary to proceed with caution, lest we should fall into an 
 ambuscade, and our retreat to the boat be cut off. We walked 
 
First Voyage. 163 
 
 along the skirts of tlie wood, and at the distance of about two 
 hundred yards from the place where we landed, we came to a 
 grove of cocoa-nut trees, which stood upon the banks of a little 
 brook of brackish water. The trees were of a small growth, but 
 well hung with fruit ; and near them was a shed or hut, which 
 had been covered with their leaves, though most of them were 
 now fallen off : about the hut lay a great number of the shells of 
 the fruit, some of which appeared to be just fresh from the tree. 
 We looked at the fruit very wishfully, but not thinking it safe to 
 climb, we were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut 
 At a little distance from this place we found plantains, and a 
 bread-fruit tree, but it had nothing upon it ; and having now 
 advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians 
 rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, at about the dis- 
 tance of a hundred yards ; and as they ran towards us, the fore- 
 most threw something out of his hand, which flew on one side 
 of him, and burnt exactly like gunpowder, but made no report : 
 the other two instantly threw their lances at us ; and, as no 
 time was now to be lost, we discharged our pieces, which were 
 loaded with small shot. It is probable that they did not feel the 
 shot, for though they halted a moment, they did not retreat ; and 
 a third dart was thrown at us. As we thought their farther 
 approach might be prevented with less risk of life, than it would 
 cost to defend ourselves against their attack if they should come 
 nearer, we loaded our pieces with ball, and fired a second time : 
 by this discharge it is probable that some of them were wounded ; 
 yet we had the satisfaction to see that they all ran away with 
 great agility. As I was not disposed forcibly to invade this 
 country, either to gratify our appetites or our curiosity, and per- 
 ceived that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, we im- 
 
164 Cooks Voyages 
 
 proved this interval, in which the destruction of the natives was 
 no longer necessary to our own defence, and with all expedition 
 returned towards our boat. We there took a view of them at our 
 leisure ; they made much the some appearance as the New 
 Hollanders, being nearly of the same stature, and having their 
 hair short-cropped : like them also they were all stark naked, 
 but we thought the colour of their skin was not quite so dark ; 
 this, however, might perhaps be merely the effect of their not 
 being quite so dirty. All this while they were shouting defiance, 
 and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. What these 
 fires were, or for what purpose intended, we could not imagine : 
 those who discharged them had in their hands a short piece of 
 stick, possibly a hollow cane, which they swung sideways from 
 them, and we immediately saw fire and smoke, exactly resembling 
 those of a musket, and of no longer duration. This wonderful 
 phenomenon was observed from the ship, and the deception was 
 so great, that the people on board thought they had fire-arms ; 
 and in the boat, if we had not been so near as that we must have 
 heard the report, we should have thought they had been firing 
 volleys. After we had looked at them attentively some time, 
 without taking any notice of their flashing and vociferation, we 
 fired some muskets over their heads : upon hearing the balls 
 rattle among the trees, they walked leisurely away. 
 
 The place where this occurred lies about sixty-five leagues to 
 the KE. of Port St. Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what 
 is called in the charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonaventura. The 
 land, like that in every other part of the coast, is very low, but 
 covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage that can scarcely 
 be conceived. We saw the cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the 
 plantain-tree, all flourishing in a state of the highest perfection, 
 
First Voyage. 165 
 
 though the cocoa-nuts were green, and the bread-fruit not in 
 season : besides, most of the trees, shrubs, and plants that are 
 common to the South Sea Islands, New Zealand, and New 
 Holland. 
 
 Regakd for the Eights of Peoperty. 
 
 Soon after our return to the ship we made sail to the west- 
 ward, being resolved to spend no more time upon this coast, to 
 the great satisfaction of a very considerable majority of the ship's 
 company. But I am sony to say that I was strongly urged by 
 some of the officers to send a party of men ashore, and cut down 
 the cocoa-nut trees for the sake of the fruit. This I peremptorily 
 refused, as equally unjust and cruel. The natives had attacked 
 us merely for landing upon their coast, when we attempted to 
 take nothing away ; and it was therefore morally certain that 
 they would have made a vigorous effort to defend their property, 
 if it had been invaded, in which case many of them must have 
 fallen a sacrifice to our attempt, and perhaps also some of our 
 own people. I should have regretted the necessity of such a 
 measure, if I had been in want of the necessaries of life ; and 
 certainly it would have been highly criminal, when nothing was 
 to be obtained but two or three hundred of green cocoa-nuts, 
 which would at most have procured us a mere transient gratifica- 
 tion. I might indeed have proceeded farther along the coast to 
 the northward and westward, in search of a place where the ship 
 might have lain so near the shore as to cover the people with 
 her guns when they landed ; but this would have obviated only 
 part of the mischief, and though it might have secured us, would 
 probably in the very act have been fatal to the natives. 
 
1 66 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 Establishment of Fact that New Holland and New Guinea 
 WEEE Two Distinct Counteies. 
 
 Besides, we had reason to think that before such a place 
 would have been found, we should have been carried so far to the 
 westward as to have been obliged to go to Batavia, by the north 
 side of Java ; which I did not think so safe a passage as to the 
 south of Java, through the Straits of Sunda : the ship also was 
 so leaky that I doubted whether it would not be necessary to 
 heave her down at Batavia, which was another reason for making 
 the best of our way to that place ; especially as no discovery 
 could be expected in seas which had already been navigated, 
 and where every coast had been laid down by the Dutch geo- 
 graphers. The Spaniards indeed, as well as the Dutch, seem to 
 have circumnavigated all the islands in New Guinea, as almost 
 every place that is distinguished in the chart has a name in both 
 languages. The charts with which I compared such part of the 
 coast as I visited, are bound up with a French work, entitled 
 "Histoire des Navigations aux Torres Australes," which was 
 published in 1756, and I found them tolerably exact ; yet I know 
 not by whom, nor when they were taken : and though New 
 Holland and New Guinea are in them represented as two dis- 
 tinct countries, the very History in which they are bound up 
 leaves it in doubt. I pretend, however, to no more merit in this 
 part of the voyage, than to have established the fact beyond all 
 controversy. 
 
 Island of Savu — Temptation of Feesh Mutton. 
 
 Being clear of all the islands which are laid down in the maps 
 we had on board, between Timor and Java, we steered a west 
 
First Voyage. 167 
 
 course till six o'clock the next morning, when we unexpectedly 
 saw an island bearing W.S.W., and at first I thought we had made 
 a new discovery. We steered directly for it, and by ten o'clock 
 were close in with the north side of it, where we saw houses, 
 cocoa-nut trees, and to our very agreeable surprise, numerous 
 flocks of sheep. This was a temptation not to be resisted by 
 people in our situation, especially as many of us were in a bad 
 state of health, and many still repining at my not having touched 
 at Timor : it was therefore soon determined to attempt a commerce 
 with people who appeared to be so well able to supply our many 
 necessities, and remove at once the sickness and discontent that 
 had got footing among us. 
 
 Aeeival at Savtj. 
 
 Just as we got round the north point, and entered the bay, 
 we discovered a large Indian town or village, upon which we 
 stood on, hoisting a jack on the fore top-mast head : soon after, 
 to our great surprise, Dutch colours were hoisted in the town, 
 and three guns fired ; we stood on, however, till we had soundings, 
 and then anchored. 
 
 As soon as it was light in the morning, we saw the same 
 colours hoisted upon the beach, abreast of the ship ; supposing 
 therefore that the Dutch had a settlement here, I sent Lieutenant 
 Gore ashore, to wait upon the governor, or the chief person resid- 
 ing upon the spot, and acquaint him who we were, and for what 
 purpose we had touched upon the coast. As soon as he came 
 ashore, he was received by a guard of between twenty and thirty 
 Indians, armed with muskets, who conducted him to the town, 
 where the colours had been hoisted the night before, carrying 
 with them those that had been hoisted upon the beach, and 
 
1 68 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 inarching without any military regularity. As soon as he arrived, 
 he was introduced to the raja, or king of the island ; and by a 
 Portuguese interpreter told him that the ship was a man-of-war 
 belonging to the king of Great Britain, and that she had many 
 sick on board, for whom we wanted to purchase such refreshments 
 as the island afforded. His Majesty replied, that he was willing 
 to supply us with whatever we wanted, but that, being in alliance 
 with the Dutch East India Company, he was not at liberty to 
 trade with any other people, without having first procured their 
 consent, for which, however, he said, he would immediately apply 
 to a Dutchman who belonged to the company, and who was the 
 only white man upon the island. To this man, who resided at 
 some distance, a letter was immediately despatched, acquainting 
 him with our arrival and request. In about three hours, the 
 Dutch resident answered the letter that had been sent him, in 
 person : he proved to be a native of Saxony, and his name is 
 Johan Christopher Lange. He behaved with great civility to 
 Mr. Gore, assuring him, that we were at liberty to purchase of 
 the natives whatever we pleased. After a short time, he expres- 
 sed a desire of coming on board, so did the king also, and several 
 of his attendants : Mr. Gore intimated that he was ready to attend 
 them, but they desired that two of our people might be left ashore 
 as hostages : and in this also they were indulged. 
 
 EoYAL Scruples. 
 
 About two o'clock, they all came aboard the ship, and our 
 dinner being ready, they accepted our invitation to partake of it : 
 I expected them immediately to sit down, but the king seemed 
 to hesitate, and at last, with some confusion, said, he did not 
 imagine that we, who were white men, would suffer him, who 
 
First Voyage. 169 
 
 was of a different colour, to sit down in our company ; a compli- 
 ment soon removed his scruples, and we all sat down together 
 with great cheerfulness and cordiality : happily we were at no 
 loss for interpreters, both Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing under- 
 standing Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with Mr. Lange, 
 and several of the seamen were able to converse with such of the 
 natives as spoke Portuguese. Our dinner happened to be mutton, 
 and the king expressed a desire of having an English sheep : we 
 had but one left, however, that was presented to him : the facility 
 with which this was procured encouraged him to ask for an 
 English dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave up his greyhound : 
 Mr. Lange then intimated that a spying-glass would be acceptable, 
 and one was immediately put into his hand. Our guests then 
 told us, that the island abounded with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and 
 fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the beach the 
 next day, that we might purchase as many of them as we should 
 think fit. This put us all into high spirits, and the liquor circu- 
 lated rather faster than either the Indians or the Saxon could 
 bear. They intimated their desire to go away, before they w^ere 
 quite drunk, and were received upon deck, as they had been when 
 they came aboard, by the marines under arms. The king ex- 
 pressed a curiosity to see them exercise, in which he was gratified, 
 and they fired three rounds : he looked at them with great atten- 
 tion, and was much surprised at their regularity and expedition, 
 especially in cocking their pieces ; the first time they did it, he 
 struck the side of the ship with a stick that he had in his hand, 
 and cried out with great vehemence, that all the locks made but 
 one clink. They were dismissed with many presents, and when 
 they went away saluted with nine guns : Mr. Banks and Dr. 
 
T70 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 Solander went ashore with them ; and as soon as they put off 
 they gave us three cheers. 
 
 In the morning of the 19th, I went ashore with Mr. Banks, 
 and several of the officers and gentlemen, to return the king's 
 visit ; but my chief business was to procure some of the buffaloes, 
 sheep, and fowls, which we had been told should be driven down 
 to the beach. We were, however, greatly mortified to find that 
 no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise. 
 
 Luxury of Dinner on Shore after a long Voyage. 
 
 As the morning was now far advanced, and we were very 
 unwilling to return on board and eat salt provisions, when so 
 many delicacies surrounded us ashore, we petitioned his majesty 
 for liberty to purchase a small hog and some rice, and to employ 
 his subjects to dress them for us. He answered very graciously, 
 that if we could eat victuals dressed by his subjects, which he 
 could scarcely suppose, he would do himself the honour of enter- 
 taining us. We expressed our gratitude, and immediately sent 
 on board for liquors. About five o'clock, dinner was ready ; it 
 was served in six-and-thirty dishes, or rather baskets, containing 
 alternately rice and pork ; and three bowls of earthenware, filled 
 with the liquor in which the pork had been boiled ; these were 
 ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round them for us to sit 
 upon. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, 
 near which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves 
 of the fan-palm, who assisted us in washing our hands. When 
 this was done, we placed ourselves round the victuals, and waited 
 for the king. As he did not come, we inquired for him, and were 
 told that the custom of the country did not permit the person 
 
First Voyage. 171 
 
 who gave tlie entertainment to sit down with his guests ; but 
 that, if we suspected the victuals to be poisoned, he would come 
 and taste them. We immediately declared that we had no such 
 suspicion, and desired that none of the rituals of hospitality might 
 be violated on our account. The prime minister and Mr. Lange 
 were of our party, and 
 
 We made a most luxurious meaL 
 
 We thought the pork and rice excellent, and the broth not to be 
 despised ; but the spoons, which were made of leaves, were so 
 small, that few of us had patience to use them. After dinner, 
 our wine passed briskly about, and we again inquired for our royal 
 host, thinking that though the custom of his country would not 
 allow him to eat with us, he might at least share in the jollity of 
 our bottle ; but he again excused himself, saying, that the master 
 of a feast should never be drunk, which there was no certain way 
 to avoid but by not tasting the liquor. 
 
 As wine generally warms and opens the heart, we took an 
 opportunity, when we thought its influence began to be felt, to 
 revive the subject of the buffaloes and sheep, of which we had 
 not in all this time heard a syllable, though they were to have 
 been brought down early in the morning. But our Saxon 
 Dutchman, with great phlegm, began to communicate to us the 
 contents of a letter which he pretended to have received from the 
 governor of Concordia, which letter, it was the general opinion, 
 was a fiction ; that the prohibitory orders were feigned with a 
 view to get money from us for breaking them ; and that, by pre- 
 cluding our liberality to the natives, this man hoped more easily 
 to turn it into another channel 
 
172 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 Stratagem to Secure Provisions — Effect of an old 
 Broadsword. 
 
 The next morning we went ashore again ; Dr. Solander went 
 up to the town to speak to Lange, and I remained upon the 
 beach, to see what could be done in the purchase of provisions. 
 I found here an old Indian, who, as he appeared to have some 
 authority, we had among ourselves called the prime minister ; 
 to engage this man in our interest, I presented him with a 
 spying-glass, but I saw nothing at market except one small 
 buffalo. I inquired the price of it, and was told five guineas : 
 this was twice as much as it was worth ; however, I offered three, 
 which I could perceive the man who treated with me thought a 
 good price ; but he said he must acquaint the king with what I 
 had offered before he could take it. A messenger was imme- 
 diately despatched to his majesty, who soon returned, and said, 
 that the buffalo would not be sold for anything less than five 
 guineas. Thi3 price I absolutely refused to give ; and another 
 messenger was sent away with an account of my refusal : this 
 messenger was longer absent than the other, and while I was 
 waiting for his return, 1 saw, to my great astonishment. Dr. 
 Solander coming from the town, followed by above a hundred 
 men, some armed with muskets, and some with lances. "When I 
 inquired the meaning of this hostile appearance, the Doctor told 
 me, that Mr. Lange had interpreted to him a message from the 
 king, purporting that the people would not trade with us, because 
 we had refused to give them more than half the value of what 
 they had to sell ; and that we should not be permitted to trade 
 upon any terms longer than this day. Besides the ofi&cers who 
 commanded the party, there came a man who was born at Timor, 
 
First Voyage. 173 
 
 of Portuguese parents, and who, as we afterwards discovered, was 
 a kind of colleague to the Dutch factor ; by this man, the pre- 
 tended king's order was delivered to me, of the same purport 
 with that which Dr. Solander had received from Lange. We 
 were all clearly of opinion that this was a mere artifice of the 
 factors to extort money from us, for which we had been prepared 
 by the account of a letter from Concordia ; and while we were 
 hesitating what step to take, the Portuguese, that he might the 
 sooner accomplish his purpose, began to drive away the people 
 who had brought down poultry and syrup, and others that were 
 now coming in with buffaloes and sheep. 
 
 At this time, I glanced my eye upon the old man whom I 
 had complimented in the morning with the spying-glass, and I 
 thought, by his looks, that he did not heartily approve of what 
 was doing ; I therefore took him by the hand, and presented him 
 with an old broadsword. This instantly turned the scale in our 
 favour; he received the sword with a transport of joy, and 
 flourishing it over the busy Portuguese, who crouched like a fox 
 to a lion, he made him, and the officer who commanded the 
 party, sit down upon the ground behind him, and the people, 
 eager to supply us with whatever we wanted, and seemingly more 
 desirous of goods than money, instantly improved the advantage 
 that had been procured them, and the market was stocked almost 
 in an instant. To establish a trade for buffaloes, however, which 
 I most wanted, I found it necessary to give ten guineas for two, 
 one of which weighed no more than a hundred and sixty pounds ; 
 but I bought seven more much cheaper, and might afterwards 
 have purchased as many as I pleased almost upon my own terms, 
 for they were now driven down to the water side in herds. 
 
 The houses of Sava are all built upon posts, or piles, about 
 
174 Cooks Voyages 
 
 four feet high, one end of which is driven into the ground, and 
 upon the other end is laid a substantial floor of wood, so that 
 there is a vacant space of four feet between the floor of the house 
 and the ground. 
 
 Palm-tree Toddy. 
 
 The fan-palm tree furnishes the inhabitants with a kind of 
 wine, called toddy, which is obtained by cutting the buds which 
 are to produce flowers, and tying under them small baskets, made 
 of the leaves, which are so close as to hold liquids without leak- 
 ing. The juice which trickles into these vessels is collected by 
 persons who climb the trees for that purpose, morning and 
 evening, and is the common drink of every individual upon the 
 island ; yet a much greater quantity is drawn off than is con- 
 sumed in this use, and of the surplus they make both a syrup 
 and coarse sugar. The liquor is called dna, or duac, and both 
 the syrup and sugar, gula. The syrup is prepared by boiling the 
 liquor down in pots of earthen-ware, till it is sufficiently 
 inspissated ; it is not unlike treacle in appearance, but is some- 
 what thicker, and has a much more agreeable taste : the sugar is 
 of a reddish brown, perhaps the same with the Jugata sugar 
 upon the continent of India, and it was more agreeable to our 
 palates than any cane sugar, unrefined, that we had ever tasted. 
 We were at first afraid that the syrup, of which some of our 
 people ate very great quantities, would have brought on fluxes, 
 but its aperient quality was so very slight, that what efl'ect it 
 produced was rather salutary than hurtful. 
 
 Effect of Sugar on the Teeth. 
 Both sexes are enslaved by the hateful and pernicious habit 
 
First Voyage. 175 
 
 of chewing betel and areca, wliicli they contract even while they 
 are children, and practise incessantly from morning till night. 
 With these they always mix a kind of white lime, made of coral 
 stone and shells, and frequently a small quantity of tobacco, so 
 that their mouths are disgustful in the highest degree both to the 
 smell and the sight ; the tobacco taints their breath, and the 
 betel and lime make the teeth not only as black as charcoal, 
 but as rotten too. I have seen men between twenty and thirty, 
 whose fore-teeth have been consumed almost down to the gums, 
 though no two of them were exactly of the same length or thick- 
 ness, but irregularly corroded like iron by rust. This loss of 
 teeth is, I think, by all who have written upon the subject, im- 
 puted to the tough and stringy coat of the areca-nut ; but I im- 
 pute it wholly to the lime : they are not loosened, or broken, or 
 forced out, as might be expected, if they were injured by the 
 continual chewing of hard and rough substances, but they are 
 gradually wasted like metals that are exposed to the action of 
 powerful acids ; the stumps always adhering firmly to the socket 
 in the jaw, when there is no part of the tooth above the gums : 
 and possibly those who suppose that sugar has a bad effect upon 
 the teeth of Europeans, may not be mistaken, for it is well known 
 that refined loaf sugar contains a considerable quantity of lime ; 
 and he that doubts whether lime wiU destroy bone of any kind, 
 may easily ascertain the fact by experiment. If the people here 
 are at any time without this odious mouthful, they are smoking. 
 
 Peide of Pedigree — Monumental Stones. 
 
 The chief object of pride among these people, like that of a 
 Welshman, is a long pedigree of respectable ancestors, and, 
 indeed, a veneration for antiquity seems to be carried farther 
 
176 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 here than in any other country : even a house that has been well 
 inhabited for many generations, becomes almost sacred, and few 
 articles either of use or luxury bear so high a price as stones, 
 which having been long sat upon, are become even and smooth : 
 those who can purchase such stones, or are possessed of them by 
 inheritance, place them round their houses, where they serve as 
 seats for their dependants. 
 
 Every raja sets up in the principal town of his province, or 
 nigree, a large stone, which serves as a memorial of his reign. 
 In the principal town of Seba, where we lay, there are thirteen 
 such stones, besides many fragments of others, which had been 
 set up in earlier times, and are now mouldering away : these 
 monuments seem to prove that some kind of civil establishment 
 here is of considerable antiquity. The last thirteen reigns in 
 England make something more than 276 years. Many of these 
 stones are so large, that it is difiQcult to conceive by what means 
 they were brought to their present station, especially as it is the 
 summit of a hill ; but the world is full of memorials of human 
 strength, in which the mechanical powers that have been since 
 added by mathematical science seem to be surpassed ; and of 
 such monuments there are not a few among the remains of 
 barbarous antiquity in our own country, besides those upon 
 Salisbury Plain. These stones not only record the reigns of suc- 
 cessive princes, but serve for a purpose much more extraordinary, 
 and probably altogether peculiar to this country. When a raja 
 dies, a general feast is proclaimed throughout his dominions, and 
 all his subjects assemble round these stones ; almost every living 
 creature that can be caught is then killed, and the feast lasts for 
 a less or greater number of weeks or months, as the kingdom 
 happens to be more or less furnished with live stock at the time ; 
 
First Voyage, 177 
 
 the stones serve for tables. When this madness is over, a fast 
 must necessarily ensue, and the whole kingdom is obliged to 
 subsist upon syrup and water, if it happens in the dry season, 
 when no vegetables can be procured, till a new stock of animals 
 can be raised from the few that have escaped by chance, or been 
 preserved by policy from the general massacre, or can be pro- 
 cured from the neighbouring kingdoms. Such, however, is the 
 account that we received from Mr. Lange. 
 
 The religion of these people, according to the same gentleman's 
 information, is an absurd kind of paganism, every man choosing 
 his own god, and determining for himself how he should be 
 worshipped ; so that there are almost as many gods and modes 
 of worship as people. In their morals, however, they are said to 
 be irreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity. 
 
 This island was settled by the Portuguese almost as soon 
 as they first found their way into this part of the ocean ; but 
 they were in a short time supplanted by the Dutch, wlio placed 
 three persons upon the island; Mr. Lange, his colleague, a 
 native of Timor, and one Frederick Craig, the son of an Indian 
 woman by a Dutchman. 
 
 Dutch Christianity. 
 
 The office of Mr. Frederick Craig is to instruct the youth of 
 the country in reading and writing, and the principles of the 
 Christian religion ; the Dutch having printed versions of the 
 New Testament, a catechism, and several other tracts, in the 
 language of this and the neighbouring islands. Dr. Solander, 
 who was at his house, saw the books, and the copy-books also, of 
 his scholars, many of whom wrote a very fair hand. He boasted 
 that there were no less than six hundred Christians in the town- 
 
 N 
 
178 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 ship of Seba ; but what the Dutch Christianity of these Indians 
 may be, it is not perhaps very easy to guess, for there was not a 
 church, nor even a priest, in the whole island. 
 
 Island of Java and Batavia. 
 
 In the morning of Friday, the 21st of September 1770, we 
 got under sail, and stood away to the westward, along the north 
 side of the island of Savu, and of the smaller that lies to the 
 westward of it ; and at four o'clock in the morning of the 2d 
 October, we fetched close in with the coast of Java, in fifteen 
 fathom ; we then stood along the coast, and early in the forenoon 
 I sent the boat ashore to try if she could procure some fruit for 
 Tupia, who was very ill, and some grass for the buffaloes that 
 were still alive. In an hour or two she returned with four cocoa- 
 nuts, and a small bunch of plantains, which had been purchased 
 for a shilling, and some herbage for the cattle, which the Indians 
 not only gave us, but assisted our people to cut. The country 
 looked like one continued wood, and had a very pleasant 
 appearance. 
 
 Having again weighed, we stood to the N.E. between Thwart- 
 the-way-Island and the Cap, sounding from eighteen to twenty- 
 eight fathom : we had but little wind all night, and having a 
 strong current against us, we got no further by eight in the 
 morning than Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to 
 the N.E., and obliged us to anchor in two-and-twenty fathom, at 
 about the distance of two miles from the shore ; with a strong 
 current setting to the N.W. 
 
 Dutch Questions. 
 Having made several attempts to sail with a wind that 
 
First Voyage. 179 
 
 would not stem the current, and as often come to an anchor, a 
 proa* came alongside of us in the morning of the 5th, in which 
 was a Dutch officer, who sent me down a printed paper in 
 EngHsh, duplicates of which he had in other languages, particu- 
 ]arly in French and Dutch, all regularly signed, in the name of 
 the Governor and Coimcil of the Indies, by their secretary : it 
 contained nine questions, very iU expressed in the following 
 terms : — 
 
 "1. To what nation the ship belongs, and its name? 
 
 " 2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place ? 
 
 " 3. From what place it lastly departed from ? 
 
 *' 4. Whereunto designed to go ? 
 
 " 5. What and how many ships of the Dutch Company by 
 departure from the last shore there layed, and their names ? 
 
 " G. If one or more of these ships in company with this, is de- 
 pai-ted for this or any other place ? 
 
 " 7. If during the voyage any particularities is happened or 
 seen? 
 
 " 8. If not any ships in sea, or the Straits of Sunda, have 
 seen or hailed in, and which ? 
 
 " 9. If any other news worth of attention, at the place from 
 whence the ship lastly departed, or during the voyage, is 
 happened ? 
 
 " Batavia, in the Castle. 
 
 " By order of the Governor-General 
 " and the Counsellors of India, 
 
 ** J. Brander Bungl, Sec." 
 
 I 
 
 Of these questions I answered only the first and the fourth ; 
 
 • A long narrow sail canoe used in the south seas. 
 
i8o Cook's Voyages. 
 
 which when the officer saw, he said answers to the rest were of 
 no consequence : yet he immediately added, that he must send 
 that very paper away to Batavia, and that it would be there the 
 next day at noon. 
 
 Having alternately weighed and anchored several times, we 
 at length stood in for Batavia road, where we arrived at four 
 o'clock on the 9th October. 
 
 Arrival at Batavia and Presage of Sufferings. 
 
 We found here the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two 
 English private traders of that country, thirteen sail of large 
 Dutch ships, and a considerable number of small vessels. A 
 boat came immediately on board from a ship which had a broad 
 pendant flying, and the officer who commanded, having inquired 
 who we were, and whence we came, immediately returned with 
 such answers as we thought fit to give him : both he and his 
 people were as pale as spectres, a sad presage of our sufferings in 
 so unhealthy a country. 
 
 As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely 
 proceed to Europe without an examination of her bottom, I de- 
 termined to apply for leave to heave her down at this place. 
 With this view we repaired immediately to the house of Mr. 
 Leith, the only Englishman of any credit who is resident at this 
 place, who received us with great politeness, and engaged us to 
 dinner. At five o'clock in the afternoon I was introduced to the 
 governor-general, who received me very courteously ; he told me 
 that I should have everything I wanted, and that in the morning 
 my request to repair the ship should be laid before the council, 
 which I was desired to attend. 
 
First Voyage. i8i 
 
 Benefit of a Lightning-Conductor. 
 
 About nine o'clock, we had a dreadful storm of thunder, 
 lightning, and rain, during which the mainmast of one of the 
 Dutch East Indiamen was split, and carried away by the deck ; 
 the main-top-mast and top-gallant mast were shivered all to 
 pieces ; she had an iron spindle at the main-top-gallant mast- 
 head, which probably directed the stroke. This ship lay not 
 more than the distance of two cables' length from ours, and in all 
 probability we should have shared the same fate, but for the 
 electrical chain which we had but just got up, and which con- 
 ducted the lightning over the side of the ship ; but though we 
 escaped the lightning, the explosion shook us like an earthquake, 
 the chain at the same time appearing like a line of fire. A sentinel 
 was in the action of charging his piece, and the shock forced the 
 musket out of his hand, and broke the rammer rod. Upon this 
 occasion, I cannot but earnestly recommend chains of the same 
 kind to every ship, whatever be her destination, and 1 hope that 
 the fate of the Dutchman will be a warning to all who shall 
 read this narrative, against having an iron spindle at the mast- 
 head.* 
 
 In the meantime, I procured an order to the superintendent 
 of the island of Onrust, where it was arranged the ship was to be 
 repaired, to receive her there ; and sent, by one of the ships that 
 sailed for Holland, an account of our arrival here, to Mr. Stephens, 
 
 * N. B. — This recommendation was not attended to for more than half a century. 
 All ships of the Koyal Navy are, however, now fitted with Sir Wm. Snow Harris' 
 conductors, and no accident has ever occurred, so far as the editor is aware, with 
 any so fitted, though many ships have been struck. Vessels not so fitted had 
 previously suffered great damage, and many gallant lives were lost. — Ed. 
 
1 82 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the secretary to the admiralty* The expenses that would be in- 
 curred by repairing and refitting the ship rendered it necessary 
 for me to take up money in this place, which I imagined might 
 
 * This interesting letter from Captain Cook, dated October 23d 1770, detailing 
 his successful voyage, and that he *' had not lost a man by sickness," is sadly cor- 
 roborative of the ill efifects of the climate of Batavia, aided possibly by the excesses 
 of the men, on the arrival of the ship at that place : — 
 
 Endeavour Barky near Batavia^ 
 2U October 1770. 
 
 Sir, — Please to acquaint my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty that I left 
 Rio de Janeiro the 28th of December 1768, and on the 16th of January following 
 arrived in Success Bay, in Straits La Maire, where we recruited our wood and 
 water, aad on the 21st of the same month, we quitted Straits La Maire, and arrived 
 at George's on the 13th of April. In our passage to this island I made a far more 
 westerly track than any ship had ever done before, yet it was attended with no 
 discovery until we arrived within the tropick, where we discovered several islands. 
 We met with as friendly a reception by the natives of George's Island as I could 
 wish, and I took care to secure ourselves in such a manner as to put it out of the 
 power of the whole island to drive us off. Some days preceding the June 3d, I 
 sent Lieut. Hicks to the eastern part of this island, and Lieut. Gore to York 
 island, with others of the officers (Mr. Green having furnished them with instru- 
 ments), to observe the transit of Venus, that we may have the better chance of 
 succeeding should the day prove unfavourable, but in this we were so fortunate 
 that the observations was everywhere attended with every favourable circumstance. 
 It was the 13th of July before I was ready to quit this island, after which I spent 
 near a month exploring some other islands which lay to the westward before we 
 steered to the southward. On the 14th of August we discovered a small island 
 laying in the latitude of 22° 27' south, longitude 150° 47 west. After quitting 
 this island I steered to the south, inclining a little to the east, until we arrived in 
 the latitude of 40° 12' south, without seeing the least signs of land. After this I 
 steered to the westward, between the latitude of 30° and 40°, until the 6th of 
 October, on which day we discovered the east coast of New Zealand, which I 
 found to consist of two large islands extending from 34° to 48° of south latitude, 
 both of which I circumnavigated. On the 1st of April 1770, I quitted New 
 Zealand and steered to the westward until I feU in with the east coast of New 
 
First Voyage. 183 
 
 be done without difficulty : but I found myself mistaken ; for, 
 after the most diligent inquiry, I could not find any private per- 
 son that had ability and inclination to advance the sum that I 
 
 Holland, in the latitude of 38° south. I coasted the shore of this country to the 
 north, putting in at such places as I saw convenient, until we arrived in the lati- 
 tude of 15° 45' south, where on the night of the 10th of June we stnick upon a 
 reef of rocks, where we lay twenty- three hours and received some very consider- 
 able damage, this proved a fatal stroke to the remainder of the voyage, as we were 
 obliged to take shelter in the first port we met with, where we were detained re- 
 pairing the damage we had sustained, until the 4th of August, and after all put 
 to sea with a leaky ship, and afterwards coasted the shore to the northward through 
 the most dangerous navigation that ever perhaps ship was in, until the 22d of 
 same month, when being in the latitude of 10° 30* south, we found a passage into 
 the Indian Sea, between the northern extremity of New Holland and New Guinea. 
 After getting through this passage I stood over for the coast of New Guinea, which 
 we made on the 29th ; but as we found it absolutely necessary to heave the ship 
 down to stop her leak before we proceeded home, I made no stay here, but quitted 
 this coast on the 3d of September, and made the best of my way to Batavia, 
 where we arrived on the 10th instant, and soon after obtained leave of the governor 
 and council to be hove down at Onrust, where we have but just got alongside of 
 the wharf in order to take out our stores, etc. 
 
 I send herewith a copy of my journal containing the proceedings of the whole 
 voyage, together with such charts as I have had time to copy, which I judge will 
 be sufficient for the present to illustrate said journal. I have with undisguised 
 truth and without gloss inserted the whole transactions of the voyage, and made 
 such remarks and have given such description of things as I thought was neces- 
 sary, in the best manner I was capable of. Although the discoveries made in this 
 voyage are not great, I flatter myself they are such as may merit the attention of 
 their Lordships. Although I have faOed in discovering the so much talked of 
 southern continent, which perhaps do not exist, and which I myself have much at 
 heart, yet I am confident that no part of the failure of such discovery can be laid 
 to my charge ; had we been so fortunate not to have run ashore, much more 
 would have been done in the latter part of the voyage than what was ; but as it 
 is, I presume this voyage will be found as complete as any before made to the 
 South Seas on the same account. Tlie plans T have drawn of the places where I 
 
184 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 wanted. In this difficulty I applied to the governor himself, by 
 a written request ; in consequence of which, the Shebander had 
 orders to supply me with what money I should require out of the 
 Company's treasury. 
 
 Fatal Effect of the Ci:.imate. 
 
 On the 18th, as soon as it was light, having by several acci- 
 dents and mistakes suffered a delay of many days, I took up the 
 anchor, and ran down to Onrust : a few days afterwards we went 
 alongside of the wharf, on Cooper's Island, which lies close to 
 Onrust, in order to take out our stores. By this time, having been 
 here only nine days, we began to feel the fatal effects of the 
 climate and situation. Tupia, after the flow of spirits which the 
 
 have been at were made with all the care and accuracy that time and circumstances 
 would admit of thus ; for I am certain that the latitude and longitude of few parts 
 of the world are better settled than these. In this I was very much assisted by 
 Mr. Green, who let slip no opportunity for making observations for settling the 
 longitude during the whole course of the voyage, and the many valuable discoveries 
 made by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in natural history, and other things useful 
 to the learned world, cannot fail of contributing very much to the success of the 
 voyage. 
 
 In justice to the officers and the whole crew, I must say they have gone through 
 the fatigues and dangers of the whole voyage with that cheerfulness and alertness 
 that will always do honour to British seamen, and I have the satisfaction to say 
 that I have not lost one man by sickness during the whole voyage. 
 
 I hope the repairs wanted to the ship will not be so great as to detain us any 
 length of time. You may be assured that I shall make no unnecessary delay, 
 either here or any other place, but shall make the best of my way home. 
 
 I have the honour to be, with the greatest respect, Sir, your most obedient 
 humble servant, (Signed) James Cook. 
 
 (^From the originalUtter of Captain Cook. Records of the Admiralty, White- 
 hall. Captain's letters, G. vol. 22.) 
 
First Voyage, 185 
 
 novelties of the place produced upon his first landing, sunk on a 
 sudden, and grew every day worse and worse. Tayeto was 
 seized with an inflammation upon his lungs, Mr. Banks's two 
 servants became very ill, and himself and Dr. Solander were 
 attacked by fevers : in a few days almost every person both on 
 board and ashore was sick; affected, no doubt, by the low, 
 swampy situation of the place, and the numberless dirty canals 
 which intersect the town in all directions. On the 26th, I set 
 up the tent for the reception of the ship's company, of whom there 
 was but ,a small number able to do duty. Poor Tupia, of whose 
 life we now began to despair, and who till this time had contin- 
 ued ashore with Mr. Banks, desired to be removed to the ship, 
 where, he said, he should breathe a freer air than among the 
 numerous houses which obstructed it ashore : on board the ship, 
 however, he could not go, for she was unrigged, and preparing 
 to be laid down at the careening place : but on the 28th, Mr. 
 Banks went with him to Cooper's Island, or, as it is called here, 
 Kuypor, where she lay ; and as he seemed pleased with the spot, 
 a tent was there pitched for him : at this place both the sea-breeze 
 and the land-breeze blew directly over him, and he expressed 
 great satisfaction in his situation. Mr. Banks, whose humanity 
 kept him two days with this poor Indian, returned to the town 
 on the 30th, and the fits of his intermittent, which was now 
 become a regular tertian, were so violent as to deprive him of his 
 senses while they lasted, and leave him so weak that he was 
 scarcely able to crawl down stairs : at this time Dr. Solander's 
 disorder also increased, and Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon was 
 confined to his bed. 
 
 On the 5th of November, after many delays, in consequence 
 of the Dutch ships coming alongside the wharfs to load pepper. 
 
1 86 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 the ship was laid down, and the same day Mr. Monkhouse, our 
 surgeon, a sensible, skilful man, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal 
 country, a loss which was greatly aggravated by our situation. 
 Dr. Solander was just able to attend his funeral, but Mr. Banks 
 was confined to his bed. Our distress was now very great, and 
 the prospect before us discouraging in the highest degree : our 
 danger was not such as we could surmount by any efforts of our 
 own; courage, skill, and diligence, were all equally ineffectual, 
 and death was every day making advances upon us, where we 
 could neither resist nor fly. Malay servants were hired to 
 attend the sick, but they had so little sense either of duty or 
 humanity, that they could not be kept within call, and the patient 
 was frequently obliged to get out of bed to seek them. On the 
 9th we lost our poor Indian boy Tayeto, and Tupia was so much 
 affected, that it was doubted whether he would survive till the 
 next day. 
 
 Melancholy Eeflection. 
 
 In the meantime, the bottom of the ship being examined, 
 was found to be in a worse condition than we apprehended : the 
 false keel was all gone to within twenty feet of the stern-post ; 
 the main keel was considerably injured in many places ; and a 
 great quantity of the sheathing was torn off, and several planks 
 were much damaged ; two of them, and the half of a third, under 
 the main channel near the keel, were for the length of six feet 
 so worn, that they were not above an eighth part of an inch thick, 
 and here the worms had made their way quite into the timbers ; 
 yet in this condition she had sailed many hundred leagues, where 
 navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the world : how much 
 misery did we escape, by being ignorant that so considerable a 
 
First Voyage. 187 
 
 part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a 
 shoe, and that every life on board depended upon 
 
 So slight and fragile a barrier between us and the unfathomable 
 
 ocean ! 
 
 It seemed, however, that we had been preserved only to perish 
 here : Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were so bad, that the physi- 
 cian declared they had no chance for recovery but by removing 
 into the country ; a house was therefore hired for them at the 
 distance of about two miles from the town, which belonged to 
 the master of the hotel, who engaged to furnish them with 
 provisions, and the use of slaves. As they had already experi- 
 enced their want of influence over slaves that had other masters, 
 and the unfeeling inattention of these fellows to the sick, they 
 bought each of them a Malay woman, which removed both the 
 causes of their being so ill served ; the women were their own 
 property, and the tenderness of the sex, even here, made them 
 good nurses. While these preparations were making, they re- 
 ceived an account of the death of Tupia, who sunk at once after 
 the loss of the boy, whom he loved with the tenderness of a 
 parent. 
 
 By the 14th, the bottom of the ship was thoroughly repaired, 
 and very much to my satisfaction ; it would, indeed, be injustice 
 to the ofi&cers and workmen of this yard, not to declare that, in 
 my opinion, there is not a marine yard in the world where a ship 
 can be laid down with more convenience, safety, and despatch, 
 nor repaired with more diligence and skill. 
 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander recovered slowly at the country- 
 house : but I was now taken ill myself ; Mr. Sporing and a sea- 
 man who had attended Mr. Banks were also seized with inter- 
 
1 88 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 mittents ; and, indeed, there were not more than ten of the whole 
 ship's company that were able to do duty * 
 
 On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, 
 and having taken in most of her water and stores, and received 
 the sick on board, we ran up to Batavia Eoad, and anchored in 
 four fathom and a half of water. From this time to the 24'th, 
 we were employed in getting on board the remainder of our water 
 and provisions, with some new pumps, and in several other ope- 
 rations that were necessary to fit the ship for the sea — all which 
 would have been effected much sooner, if sickness and death had 
 not disabled or carried oflP a great number of our men. 
 
 While we lay here, the " Earl of Elgin/' Captain Cook, a ship 
 belonging to the English East India Company, came to an anchor 
 in the road. She was bound from Madras to China, but having 
 lost her passage, put in here to wait for the next season. The 
 " Phoenix," Captain Black, an English country ship, from Ben- 
 coolen also came to an anchor at this place. 
 
 Batavia, the capital of the Dutch dominions in India, and 
 generally supposed to have no equal among all the possessions 
 of the Europeans in Asia, is situated on the north side of the 
 island of Java, in a low fenny plain, where several small rivers, 
 which take their rise in the mountains called Blaeuwen Berg, 
 
 * ** The ifiortality of Europeans in Batavia is far beyond what is known in any- 
 other settlement, exceeding those in the most fatal of the West India Islands. 
 "We had indeed, in our own instance, a fatal proof of the malignancy of the climate 
 notwithstanding every precaution that was taken for preserving the health of the 
 crew. A dysentery, accompanied with typhus fever, was here brought on board, 
 which continued with more or less severity during the remaining part of the 
 voyage. We had not lost a man on our arrival at this place, but from hence to 
 the end of the voyage there died not fewer than fifty men." — Barrows Voyage to 
 Cochin-chiTui, in H. M.S. Lion, P. 179. 
 
First Voyage. 189 
 
 about forty miles up tlie country, empty themselves into the sea, 
 and where the coast forms a large bay, called the Bay of Batavia, 
 at the distance of about eight leagues from the Strait of Sunda. 
 
 The Dutch seem to have pitched upon this spot for the con- 
 venience of water-carriage ; and in that it is, indeed, a second 
 Holland, and superior to every other place in the world. There 
 are very few streets that have not a canal of considerable breadth 
 running through them, or rather stagnating in them, and contin- 
 ued for several miles in almost every direction beyond the town, 
 which is also intersected by five or six rivers, some of which are 
 navigable thirty or forty miles up the country. As the houses 
 are large, and the streets wide, it takes up a much greater extent, 
 in proportion to the number of houses it contains, than any city 
 in Europe. 
 
 In the afternoon of Christmas Eve, the 24th, I took leave of 
 the governor, and several of the principal gentlemen of the place, 
 with whom I had formed connections, and from whom I received 
 every possible civility and assistance. 
 
 At six in the morning of the 26th, we weighed and set sail ; 
 the number of sick on board amounting to forty, and the rest of 
 the ship's company in a very feeble condition. Every individual 
 had been sick except the sail-maker, an old man between seventy 
 and eighty years of age ; and it is very remarkable that this old 
 man, during our stay at this place, was constantly drunk every 
 day: we had buried seven — the surgeon, three seaman, Mr 
 Green's servant, Tupia, and Tayeto his boy. All but Tupia fell a 
 sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, putrid air of the country ; 
 and he who, from his birth, had been used to subsist chiefly upon 
 vegetable food, particularly ripe fruit, soon contracted all the 
 disorders that are incident to a sea life, and would probably have 
 
iQO Cook's Voyages. 
 
 sunk under them before we could have completed our voyage, if 
 we had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refit. 
 
 We now made the best of our way for the Cape of Good 
 Hope, but the seeds of disease which we had received at Batavia 
 began to appear with the most threatening symptoms in dysen- 
 teries and slow fevers * Lest the water which we had taken in at 
 Prince's Island should have had any share in our sickness, we 
 purified it with lime, and we washed all parts of the ship between 
 decks with vinegar, as a remedy against infection. Mr. Banks 
 was among the sick, and for some time there was no hope of his 
 
 * " 30th January 1771. In the course of this twenty-four hours, we have had 
 four men died of the flux, a melancholy proof of the calamitous situation we are at 
 present in, having hardly well men enough to tend the sails and look after the 
 sick, many of whom are so ill that we have not the least hopes of their recovery. " — 
 Extract Captain Cook's Journal. — Records, Admiralty, Whitehall. 
 
 ** 12th Fehruary 1771. — Died of the flux, after a long and painful illness, Mr. 
 Jolm Satterly, a man much esteemed by me and every gentleman on board. " — 
 lUd. 
 
 " 27th February. Died of the flux, H. Jeffs, E. Parrey, and P. Morgan, sea- 
 men. The death of these three men in one day did not in the least alarm us. 
 On the contrary, we are in hopes that they will be the last that will fall a sacrifice 
 to this fatal disorder, for such as are now ill of it are in a fair way of recovery. " — 
 Ibid. 
 
 N.B. — These were happily the last deaths recorded. 
 
 In a letter in the Eecords of the Admiralty, dated Endeavour Bark, 9th May 
 1771, Captain Cook makes mention of the deplorable sickness on board in the 
 following terms : — ** That uninterrupted state of health we had all along enjoyed 
 was soon after our arrival at Batavia succeeded by a general sickness, which de- 
 layed us there so much, that it was the 26th of December before we were able to 
 leave this place. We were fortunate enough to lose but few men at Batavia, but • 
 in our passage from thence to the Cape of Good Hope we had twenty-four men died 
 — all, or most of them, of the bloody flux. The fatal disorder reigned in the ship 
 with such obstinacy that medicine, however skilfully administered, had not the 
 least effect." 
 
First Voyage. 191 
 
 life. We were very soon in a most deplorable situation ; the 
 ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those that 
 were able to go about were too few to attend the sick, who were 
 confined to their hammocks ; and we had almost every night a 
 dead body to commit to the sea. In the course of about six 
 weeks, we buried Sporing, a gentleman who was in Mr. Banks' 
 retinue ; Parkinson, his natural history painter ; Green, the 
 astronomer ; the boatswain ; the carpenter and his mate ; Monk- 
 house, the midshipman, who had fothered the ship after she had 
 been stranded on the coast of New Holland ; our old jolly sail- 
 maker and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the 
 marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midshipman, and nine 
 seamen ; in all three-and-twenty persons, besides the seven that 
 we buried at Batavia. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Our run from Java Head to this place afforded very few sub- 
 jects of remark that can be of use to future navigators. 
 
 On Friday, the 15th of March, about ten o'clock in the 
 morning, we anchored off the Cape of Good Hope. My first care 
 was to provide a proper place ashore for the sick, which were 
 not a few ; and a house was soon found, where it was agreed 
 they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of two shillings 
 a-head per day. 
 
 Having lain here to recover the sick, procure stores, and 
 perform several necessary operations upon the ship and rigging, 
 till the 13th of April, I then got all the sick on board, several of 
 whom were still in a dangerous state, and having taken leave of 
 the governor, I unmoored the next morning, and got ready to 
 sail 
 
192 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th, we weighed and stood out of the 
 bay ; and at five in the evening anchored under Penquin, or Robin 
 Island ; we lay here all night, and as I could not sail in the 
 morning for want of wind, I sent a boat to the island for a few 
 trifling articles which we had forgot to take in at the Cape. 
 
 On the 25th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, 
 with a light breeze at S.E., and put to sea. About an hour 
 afterwards, we lost our master, Mr. Eobert MoUineux, a young 
 man of good parts, but unhappily given up to intemperance, 
 which brought on disorders that put an end to his life. 
 
 We proceeded in our voyage homeward without any remark- 
 able incident ; and in the morning of the 29th we crossed our 
 first meridian, having circumnavigated the globe in the direction 
 from east to west, and consequently lost a day, for which we 
 made an allowance at Batavia. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 1st of May, we saw the island of St. 
 Helena ; and at noon, we anchored in the road before James's 
 Fort. 
 
 We staid here till the 4th, to refresh, and Mr. Banks improved 
 the time in making the complete circuit of the island, and visit- 
 ing the most remarkable places upon it. 
 
 At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of May, we weighed 
 and stood out of the road, in company with the " Portland" man- 
 of-war, and twelve sail of Indiamen. 
 
 We continued to sail in company with the fleet, tiU the 1 0th 
 in the morning, when, perceiving that we sailed much heavier 
 than any other ship, and thinking it for that reason probable that 
 the "Portland" would get home before us, I made the signal to 
 .speak with her, upon which Captain EJliot himself came on board, 
 and I delivered to him a letter to the Admiralty, with a box, 
 
First Voyage. 193 
 
 containing the common log-books of the ship, and the journals 
 of some of the officers. We continued in company, however, till 
 the 23d in the morning, and then there was not one of the ships 
 in sight. About one o'clock in the afternoon we lost our first 
 lieutenant Mr. Hicks, and in the evening we committed his 
 body to the sea, with the usual ceremonies. The disease of 
 which he died was a consumption, and as he was not free from 
 it when he sailed from England, it may truly be said that he was 
 dying during the whole voyage, though his decline was very 
 gradual till we came to Batavia : the next day I gave Mr. Charles 
 Gierke an order to act as lieutenant in his room, a young man who 
 was extremely well qualified for that station. 
 
 Our rigging and sails were now become so bad, that something 
 was giving way every day. We continued our course, however, 
 in safety till the 10th of June, when land, which proved to be 
 the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy 
 that first saw new Zealand : on the 11th, we ran up the channel; 
 at six in the morning of the 12th we passed Beachy Head ; at 
 noon we were abreast of Dover, and about three came to an 
 anchor in the Downs, and went ashore at Deal.* 
 
 * Whoever lias carefully read, and duly considered, the wonderful protection 
 of this ship, in cases of danger the most imminent and astonishing, particularly 
 when encircled in the wide ocean with rocks of coral, her sheathing beaten off, 
 her false keel floating by her side, and a hole in her bottom, will naturally turn 
 his thoughts with adoration to that Divine Being, whose mercies are over all his 
 works. 
 
 The grand object of Captain Cook's expedition will be found detailed in the 
 sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions. But independent of this, no 
 navigator, since the time of Columbus, had made more important original dis- 
 coveries. Exclusive of several islands, never visited before, he ascertained New 
 Zealand to be composed of two islands, by sailing between them ; and he explored 
 an immense tract of the coast of New Holland, till then little known by Europeans* 
 
 O 
 
194 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 These are the appropriate merits of Captain Cook's first and glorious voyage ; 
 and though the sequel will shew that he improved on himself, he still remains un- 
 rivalled for what he had already accomplished. 
 
 The curiosities alluded to in the following letter from Captain Cook, will be 
 found in the Ethnographical Collection in the British Museum : — 
 
 Mile End, IBth Augiist 1771. 
 
 Sir, — Herewith you will receive the bulk of the curiosities I have collected in 
 the course of the voyage, as undermentioned, which you will please to dispose of 
 as you think proper. 
 
 I am. Sir, your most humble servant, James Cook. 
 
 One chest of So. Sea Islands cloth, breast-plates, and New Zeland clothing, etc. 
 One long-box or So. Sea Island chest, sundry small articles. 
 One cask, a small carved box from New Zeland, full of several small articles from 
 the same place, 1 drimi, 1 wooden tray, 5 pillows, 2 scoops, 2 stone and 2 
 wooden axes, 2 cloth beaters, 1 fish hook, 3 carved images and 8 paste beaters, 
 all from the So. Sea Islands ; 5 wooden, 3 bone, and 4 stone patta pattows, 
 and 5 buga bugaes from New Zeland. 
 One bundle of New Zeland weapons. 
 One do of South Sea Islands. 
 One do of New Holland fish gigs. 
 One do of a head ornament worn at the Heivas at Ulietea. 
 
 li.B. — There are many of the articles (engraved in the quarto edition of Cook's 
 Voyages) in the national collection at the British Museum, and shewn in the 
 cases, which can readily be identified. The original drawings from which the 
 plates in Cook's "Voyages were engraved, are now in the Banksean collection, and 
 many drawings of articles which have not yet been copied ; this is more particu- 
 larly the case with the animals, plants, etc. 
 
 In the secretary's house at the Admiralty at Whitehall, as also in the building, 
 there are several of the original portraits of native chiefis and others, taken by the 
 artist who accompanied the Endeavour, all of which ought to be removed to the 
 British Museum, as the only proper place for them, and where they may be seen, 
 not only by the public, but by all foreigners visiting that noble institution. 
 
 The following is Captain Cook's letter reporting his arrival : — 
 
 Endeavour Bark, Downs, 12th July 1771. 
 Sir, — It is with pleasure I have to request that you will be pleased to acquaint 
 iDv Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty with the arrival of H. M. bark under 
 
First Voyage. 195 
 
 my command at tWs place, where I shall leave her to wait until farther orders, 
 and in obedience to their Lordships' orders immediately, and with this letter, re- 
 pair to their office in order to lay before them a full account of the proceedings of 
 the whole voyage. 
 
 I make no doubt but that you have received my letters and journal forwarded 
 from Batavia in Dutch ships in October last, and likewise my letter of the 10th of 
 May, together with some of the officers' journals, which I put on board his 
 majesty's ship Portland, since which time nothing material hath happened, 
 excepting the death of Lieut. Hicks. The vacancy made on this occasion I filled 
 up by appointing Mr. Charles Gierke, a young man well worthy of it, and as such, 
 must beg leave to recommend him to their Lordships. This, as well as all 
 other appointments made in the bark vacant by the death of former officers, 
 agreeable to the inclosed list, will I hope meet their Lordships' approbation. 
 
 You will herewith receive my journals containing an account of the proceedings 
 of the whole voyage, together with all the charts, plans, and drawings I have made 
 of the respective places we touched at, which you will be pleased to lay before their 
 Lordships. I flatter myself that the latter will be found sufficient to convey a toler- 
 able knowledge of the places they are intended to illustrate, and that the disco- 
 veries we have made, though not great, will apologize for the length of the voyage. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient humble servant, 
 Philip Stephens, Esq. James Cook. 
 
 (Captain's letters, C. vol. 22. Records of tJie Admiralty, Whitehall.) 
 
 LIST of OFFICERS appointed to His Majesty's bark, the « Endeavour," by 
 Lieutenant James Cook, commander, in the room of others, deceased. 
 
 1770, Nov. 6, "William Perry, surgeon, in the room of Wm. B. Munkhouse, dd. 
 5th Nov. 1770, at Batavia. 
 
 1771, Feb. 5, Samuel Evans, boatswain, in the room of John Gathrey, dd. 4th 
 Feb. 1771. 
 
 ,, ,, 13, George Nowell, carpenter, in the room of John Satterley, 
 
 dd. 12th Feb. 
 , , April 1 6, Eichard PickersgOl, master, in the room of Robt. Molineux, 
 
 dd. 15th April. }-AtSea 
 
 „ May 26th, John Gore, 2d lieut., in the room of Zachariah Hicks, 
 
 dd. 25th May. 
 „ ,, 26th, Charles Gierke, 3d lieut., in the room of John Gore, 
 
 appointed 2d lieut. 
 
 James Cook. 
 
Second Voyage 
 
 TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND KOUND THE WOKLD, 
 In 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. Three Years ISJQais. 
 
 Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere were 
 only an immense mass of water, or contained another continent, 
 as speculative geography seemed to suggest, was a question which 
 had long engaged the attention, not only of learned men, but of 
 most of the maritime powers of Europe. To put an end to all 
 diversity of opinion about a matter so curious and important 
 was his Majestys principal motive in directing this voyage to be 
 undertaken. 
 
 The nature of this voyage required ships of a particular con- 
 struction, and the " Endeavour" being gone to Falkland Isles, as a 
 store-ship, the Navy-board was directed to purchase two such 
 ships as were most suitable for this service. 
 
 Accordingly, two were purchased of Captain William Ham- 
 mond of Hull. They were both built at Whitby, by the same 
 person who built the " Endeavour," being about fourteen or sixteen 
 months old at the time they were purchased, and were in my 
 opinion as well adapted to the intended service as if they had 
 been built for the purpose. The largest of the two was four 
 himdred and sixty-two tons burthen. She was named " Eesokition," 
 
ig8 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 and sent to Deptford to be equipped. The other was three 
 hundred and thirty-six tons burthen. She was named " Adven- 
 ture/' and sent to be equipped at Woolwich. 
 
 It was first proposed to sheath them with copper ; but, on 
 considering that copper corrodes the iron-work, especially about 
 the rudder, this intention was laid aside, and the old method of 
 sheathing and fitting pursued, as being the most secure ; for, 
 although it is usual to make the rudder-bands of the same com- 
 position, it is not, however, so durable as iron, nor would it, I 
 am well assured, last out such a voyage as the " Eesolution" per- 
 formed. Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect 
 of copper upon the iron-work, it would not be advisable to use 
 it on a voyage of this kind, as the principal fastenings of the 
 ship being iron, they may be destroyed. 
 
 On the 28th of November 1771, I was appointed to the 
 command of ^ the Eesolution f and Tobias Furneaux (who had 
 been second lieutenant with Captain WalHs) was promoted, on 
 this occasion, to the command of " the Adventure.'' 
 
 I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with 
 the choice of the officers. The second and third lieutenants, the 
 lieutenant of marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of 
 the petty officers, had been with me during the former voyage. 
 The others were men of known abilities ; and all of them, on every 
 occasion, shewed their zeal fpr the service in which they were 
 employed during the whole voyage. 
 
 " The Eesolution" had 112 persons on board, officers included, 
 and " the Adventure" 81. Mr. Forster and his son, both emi- 
 nent naturalists, and Mr. Wales, afterwards mathematical master 
 of Christ's Hospital, accompanied them. The following were the 
 principal officers : — 
 
Second Voyage, 199 
 
 " Eesolution.'* 
 
 R P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, Eichard Pickersgill, lieutenants. 
 
 Joseph Gilbert, master. 
 
 James Patten, surgeon. 
 
 John Edgecumbe, lieutenant, royal marines. 
 
 " Adventure.'' 
 
 Joseph Shank, Arthur Kempe, lieutenants. 
 
 Peter Fannin, master. 
 
 Thomas Andrews, surgeon. 
 
 James Scott, lieutenant, royal marines. 
 
 And now it may be necessary to say, that, as I am on the 
 point of sailing on a third expedition, I leave this account of 
 my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who in my absence 
 have kindly accepted the ofi&ce of correcting the press for me ; 
 who are pleased to think, that what I have here to relate is better 
 to be given in my own words, than in the words of another per- 
 son, especially as it is a work designed for information and not 
 merely for amusement ; in which it is their opinion, that can- 
 dour and fidelity will counterbalance the want of ornament. 
 
 I shall, therefore, conclude this introductory discourse with 
 desiring the reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which 
 doubtless he wiU frequently meet with in the following narra- 
 tive ; and that, when such occur, he will recollect that it is 
 the production of a man who has not had the advantage of 
 much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from 
 his youth ; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, 
 he has passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, 
 
200 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 from an apprentice boy in the coal trade, to a post captain in 
 the Koyal Navy, he has had no opportunity of cultivating letters. 
 After this account of myself, the public must not expect from 
 me the elegance of a fine writer, or the plausibility of a professed 
 book-maker ; but will, I hope, consider me as a plain man, 
 zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and de- 
 termined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings. 
 
 PlyTTumth Smindf 
 July 7, 1776. 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 (1772.) 
 
 On the 22(i of June the ship was completed for sea, when I 
 sailed from Sheemess ; and on the 8d of July, joined the " Adven- 
 ture " in Plymouth Sound. The evening before, we met, off the 
 Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the " Augusta" yacht (who was on his 
 return from visiting the several dockyards), with the " Glory * 
 frigate and "Hazard" sloop. We saluted his lordship with 17 guns ; 
 and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of 
 the very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by 
 coming on board, to satisfy themselves that everything was done 
 to my wish, and that the ship was found to answer to my satis- 
 faction. 
 
 On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Ply- 
 mouth Sound, with the " Adventure '' in company ; and on the 
 evening of the 29th, anchored in Funchal Eoad, in the island of 
 Madeira. Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and 
 other necessaries, we left Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood 
 to the southward, with a fine gale. On the 4th we passed Palma, 
 one of the Canary Isles. 
 
 On finding that our stock of water would not last us to the 
 Cape of Good Hope, without putting the people to a scanty 
 allowance, I resolved to stop at St. Jago for a supply. On the 
 9th we made the island of Bonavista ; the next day passed the 
 island of Mayo on our right ; and the same evening anchored in 
 Port Praya, in the island of St. Jago. 
 
202 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 Mait Oveeboard. 
 
 We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, when we got a 
 fresh gale which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. 
 But the next day the wind and showers abated, and veered to 
 the south. It was, however, variable and unsettled for several 
 days, accompanied with dark gloomy weather, and showers of 
 rain. On the 1 9th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates 
 fell overboard and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting 
 in one of the scuttles, from whence, it was supposed, he had 
 fallen : for he was not seen till the very instant he sunk under 
 the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him were too late. 
 This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a sober 
 man and a good workman. About noon the next day the rain 
 poured down upon us, not in drops, but in streams. The wind, 
 at the same time, was variable and squally, which obliged the 
 people to attend the decks, so that few in the ships escaped a 
 good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as it gave us an 
 opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. At length, on 
 the 6th of September, we crossed the line in the longitude of 8° 
 west ; after which the ceremony of ducking, etc., generally prac- 
 tised on this occasion, was not omitted. 
 
 On the 29th October we made the Cape of Good Hope, where, 
 by the healthy condition of the crews of both ships, I thought to 
 have made my stay very short. But, as the bread we wanted 
 was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be collected 
 from different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of 
 November before we had got everything on board, and the 22d 
 before we could put to sea. During this stay the crews of both 
 ships were served every day with fresh beef or mutton, new 
 
Second Voyage, 203 
 
 baked bread, and as much greens as tliey could eat. The ships 
 were caulked and painted ; and, in every respect, put in as good 
 a condition as when they left England. 
 
 Mr. Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit 
 of natural history and botany, met with Mr. Sparrman, a Swedish 
 gentleman, who had studied under Dr. Linnaeus. Mr. Forster 
 strongly importuned me to take him on board ; thinking that he 
 would be of great assistance to him in the course of the voyage. 
 I at last consented, and he embarked with us accordingly, as an 
 assistant to Mr. Forster, who bore his expenses. 
 
 I now directed my course for Cape Circumcision, and judging 
 that we should soon come into cold weather, ordered slops to be 
 served to such as were in want ; and gave to each man the fear- 
 nought jacket and trousers allowed them by the Admiralty.* 
 
 A Storm. 
 
 The wind, which had for two days blown a moderate gale, 
 increased on the 29th to a storm, which continued, with few 
 intervals, till the 6th of December. This gale, which was 
 attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence 
 that we could carry no sails ; we were driven far to the east- 
 ward of our intended course, and no hopes were left me of reach- 
 ing Cape Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune was the 
 loss of great part of our live stock, which we had brought from 
 the Cape; and which consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. 
 Indeed this sudden transition from warm mild weather to 
 extreme cold and wet, made every man in the ship feel its 
 
 * All ships recently employed in the Arctic Seas received a similar indulgence. 
 Indeed, it is an invariable custom to issue warm clothing gratis on voyages of dis- 
 covery. 
 
204 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 effects. For by tliis time tlie mercury in the thermometer had 
 fallen to 38 ; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and 
 upwards. I now made some addition to the people's allowance 
 of spirit, by giving them a dram whenever I thought it neces- 
 sary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do the same. 
 
 FiKST Contact with Islands of Ice. 
 
 On the morning of the 10th December we saw an island of ice 
 to the westward of us, and made the signal for the "Adventure" 
 to make sail and lead. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, 
 and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its sides rose 
 in a perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke exceed- 
 ingly high. Captain Furneaux at first took this ice for land, 
 and hauled off from it, until called back by signal. 
 
 On the 12th, we had stiU thick hazy weather, with sleet and 
 snow ; so that we were obliged to proceed with great caution on 
 account of the ice islands ; six of these we passed this day ; 
 some of them near two miles in circuit, and 60 feet high. And 
 yet, such was the force and height of the waves, that the sea 
 broke quite over them — a sight which was pleasing to the eye ; 
 but when we reflected on the danger, the mind was filled with 
 horror ; for, were a ship to get against the weather-side of one of 
 these islands when the sea runs high, she would be dashed to 
 pieces in a moment* Upon our getting among the ice islands, the 
 
 * This would not "be inevitably the case. When Sir James Eoss's ships came 
 into collision on the windward side of a chain of icebergs, in the South Atlantic, 
 on the 13th of March 1842, in a heavy gale of wind, the lower yardarms scraped 
 against the berg ; but the ** undertow," or reaction of the wave from the vertical 
 side of the berg, saved the ships from being driven to atoms against it. The 
 sternboard made by the Erebus on that occasion was one of the most diflSicult, 
 dangerous, and daring efforts of navigation ever attempted and successfully accom- 
 plislled. It is considered by all seamen as a masterpiece of intrepidity and skill. 
 
Second Voyage. 205 
 
 arbatrosses left us ; nor did our other companions, the pintadoes, 
 sheerwaters, small grey birds, and fulmars, appear in such numbers ; 
 on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. 
 
 Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meri- 
 dian of Cape Circumcision, provided we met with no impedi- 
 ment, as the distance was not more than eighty leagues, the wind 
 favourable, and the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice, I sent 
 on board for Captain Furneaux, to make him acquainted there- 
 with ; and after dinner he returned to his ship. 
 
 Expeditious way of Watering. 
 
 By the 8th January 1773, ice islands were so famiUar to us, 
 that they were often passed unnoticed, but more generally un- 
 seen, on account of the thick weather. On coming to one which 
 had a quantity of loose ice about it, we shortened sail, and stood 
 off and on, with a view to take some on board. We brought 
 to, hoisted out three boats, and, in about five or six hours, took 
 up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good fresh water. The 
 pieces we took up were hard and solid as a rock ; some of them 
 were so large that we were obliged to break them with pickaxes 
 before they could be taken into the boats. 
 
 The salt water which adhered to the ice was so trifling as not 
 to be tasted, and after it had lain on deck a short time entirely 
 drained off ; and the water which the ice yielded was perfectly 
 sweet and well-tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces and 
 put into casks, some we melted in the coppers, and filled up the 
 casks with the water, and some we kept on deck for present use. 
 The melting and stowing away the ice is a little tedious, and 
 takes up some time, otherwise this is the most expeditious way 
 of watering I ever met with. 
 
Jo6 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 Among the Icebergs. 
 
 On the 23d. February we were in the latitude 61° 52' south, 
 longitude 95° 2' east. As it blew a fresh gale, we tacked, and 
 spent the night, which was exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, 
 with sleet and snow, in making short boards. 
 
 Surrounded on every side with Danger, 
 
 It was natural for us to wish for daylight ; this, when it came, 
 served only to increase our apprehensions, by exhibiting to our 
 view those huge mountains of ice which, in the night, we had 
 passed without seeing. 
 
 These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, 
 at this advanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from 
 putting in execution a resolution I had taken of crossing the 
 Antarctic circle once more. Accordingly, at four o'clock in the 
 morning, we stood to the north, with a very hard gale at E.S.E., 
 accompanied with snow and sleet, and a very high sea, from the 
 same point, which made great destruction among the ice islands. 
 This circumstance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatly 
 increased the number of pieces we had to avoid. The large 
 pieces which break from the ice islands are much more danger- 
 ous than the islands themselves ; the latter are so high out of 
 water, that we can generally see them, unless the weather be 
 very thick and dark, before we are very near them ; whereas the 
 others cannot be seen in the night, till they are under the ship's 
 bows. These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to 
 us, that the apprehensions they caused were never of long dura- 
 tion, and were, in some measure, compensated, both by the 
 seasonable supplies of fresh water these ice islands afforded us 
 
Surrounded on every side with danger," p. 206. 
 
Second Voyage, 207 
 
 (without which we must have been greatly distressed), and also 
 by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened by the 
 foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and 
 caverns which are formed in many of them ; the whole exhibit- 
 injT a view which at once filled the mind with admiration and 
 horror, and can only be described by the hand of an able painter. 
 I now came to the resolution to quit the high southern 
 latitudes, and to proceed to New Zealand, to look for the 
 "Adventure," and to refresh my people * I had also some thoughts, 
 and even a desire, to visit the east coast of Van Diemen's Land, 
 in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New South 
 "Wales, but as the wind, continuing between the north and the 
 west, would not permit of this, I shaped my course to New 
 Zealand; and, being under no apprehensions <rf meeting with 
 any danger, I was not backward in carrying sail, as well by 
 night as day, having the advantage of a very strong gale, which 
 was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a very large swell 
 from the W. and W.S.W. 
 
 * He had penetrated further towards the South Pole than any previous 
 navigator ; but, in 1823, Weddell, just fifty years after, attained the latitude of 
 74° 15', being 214 geographical miles further south than Captain Cook ; and, in 
 . 1841, Captain Sir James Clark Ross reached the highest latitude that in all pro- 
 bability will ever be attained in the Antarctic Ocean, viz., 78° 4', when he dis- 
 covered the South Polar Barrier, extending 450 miles in length, with-'a perpendi- 
 cular face of ice 180 feet above the sea level. This voyage of Sir James C. Eoss 
 (already alluded to) in her Majesty's ships Erebus and Terror (the same ships in 
 which FrankUn, Crozier, Fitzjames, and their gallant associates nobly perished in 
 the service of their country), will ever stand as one of the most remarkable in the 
 maritime annals of England ; and it is much to be regretted that no medal has 
 been hitherto awarded to the gallant seamen who perilled their lives in this voyage 
 in the Antarctic Ocean. 
 
208 Cook's i/oyagea. 
 
 Aeeival at New Zealand. 
 
 At ten o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New 
 Zealand was seen from the mast-head ; and, as I intended to put 
 into Dusky Bay, or any other port I could find, on the southern 
 part of Tavai Poenammoo, we steered in for the land, under all 
 the sail we could carry, having the advantage of a fresh gale at 
 west, and tolerably clear weather, and anchored in 50 fathoms 
 water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. This was 
 on Friday the 26th of March 1773, at three in the afternoon, 
 after having been 117 days at sea; in which time we had sailed 
 3660 leagues, without having once sight of land. 
 
 After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern 
 latitude, it is but reasonable to think that many of my people 
 must be ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, happened. 
 Sweet-wort being given to such as were scorbutic, had so far the 
 desired effect, that we had only one man on board that could be 
 called very ill of this disease; occasioned, chiefly, by a bad 
 habit of body, and a complication of other disorders. We did 
 not attribute the general good state of health in the crew wholly 
 to the sweet-wort, but to the frequent airing and sweetening the 
 ship by fires, etc. We must also allow portable broth and sour- 
 krout ta have had some share in it. This last can never be 
 enough recommended. 
 
 Talkativeness of Women all over the World. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 6th April, a shooting party, 
 made up of the ofi&cers, went to Goose Cove ; and myself, accom- 
 panied^ by the two Forsters and Hodges, set out to continue the 
 survey of the bay. My attention was directed to the north side 
 
Second Voyage 209 
 
 where I discovered a fine capacious cove, in the bottom of whicli 
 is a fresh-water river ; on the west side several beautiful small 
 cascades ; and the shores are so steep that a ship might lie near 
 enough to convey the water into her by a hose. In this cove 
 we shot fourteen ducks, besides other birds, which occasioned 
 my calling it Duck Cove. 
 
 As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview 
 with three of the natives, one man and two women. They were 
 the first that discovered themselves on the N.E. point of Indian 
 Island, named so on this occasion. We should have passed 
 without seeing them, had not the man hallooed to us. He stood 
 with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind 
 him, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each 
 of them a spear. The man could not help discovering great 
 signs of fear when we approached the rock with our boat. He, 
 however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take iip some things 
 we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up, and embraced 
 him ; and presented him with such articles as I had about me, 
 which at once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were 
 joined by the two women, the gentlemen who were with me, 
 and some of the seamen. After this, we spent about half an 
 hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which the 
 youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. 
 This occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not 
 want tongue in any part of the world. We presented them 
 with fish and fowl which we had in our boat ; but these they 
 threw into the boat again, giving us to understand that such 
 things they wanted not. Night approaching obliged us to 
 take leave of them; when the youngest of the two women. 
 
2IO Cook's Voyages. 
 
 whose volubility of tongue exceeded everything I ever met 
 with, gave us a dance ; but the man viewed us with great 
 attention. 
 
 Seal-hunting. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 21st April, I went with a party out 
 to the isles on seal-hunting. The surf run so high that we could 
 only land in one place, where we killed ten. These animals 
 served us for three purposes : the skins we made use of for our 
 rigging ; the fat gave oil for our lamps ; and the flesh we ate. 
 Their harslets (liver) are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of 
 some of them eats little inferior to beef-steaks. 
 
 Waterspouts. 
 
 After leaving Dusky Bay, I directed my course along shore 
 for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find the 
 ** Adventure," and met with nothing worthy of notice till the l7th 
 May. Being then about three leagues to the westward of Cape 
 Stephens, having a gentle gale and clear weather, the wind at 
 once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenly obscured by 
 dark, dense clouds, and seemed to forebode much wind. This 
 occasioned us to clew up all our sails, and presently after, six 
 waterspouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between 
 us and the land ; that is, to the S.W. of us ; the fifth was with- 
 out us ; the sixth first appeared in the S.W. at the distance of 
 two or three miles at least from us. Its progressive motion was 
 to the N.E., not in a straight, but in a crooked line, and passed 
 within fifty yards of our stern, without our feeling any of its 
 effects. The diameter of the base of this spout I judged to be 
 about fifty or sixty feet ; that is, the sea within this space was 
 
Second Voyage. 
 
 211 
 
 much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. From this a 
 tube or round body was formed, by which the water or air, or 
 both, was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of 
 
 Waterspout. 
 
 our people said they saw a bird in the one near us ; which was 
 whirled round like the fly of a jack as it was carried upwards. 
 During the time these spouts lasted, we had, now and then, light 
 puffs of wind from all points of the compass ; with some few 
 slight showers of rain, which generally fell in large drops ; and 
 the weather continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with 
 
212 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 variable light breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its 
 old point, and the sky resumed its former serenity. Some of 
 these spouts appeared, at times, to be stationary ; and, at other 
 times, to have a quick, but very unequal, progressive motion, 
 and always in a crooked line, sometimes one way, and sometimes 
 another ; so that, once or twice, we observed them to cross one 
 another. From the ascending motion of the bird, and several 
 other circumstances, it was very plain to us that these spouts 
 were caused by whirlwinds, and that the water in them was 
 violently hurried upwards, and did not descend from the clouds, 
 as I have heard some assert. The first appearance of them is by 
 the violent agitation and rising up of the water ; and, presently 
 after, you see a round column or tube forming from the clouds 
 above, which apparently descends till it joins the agitated water 
 below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in 
 reality, but that the tube is already formed from the agitated 
 water below, and ascends, though at first it is either too small or 
 too thin to be seen. When the tube is formed, or becomes visible, 
 its apparent diameter increases, until it is pretty large ; after 
 that it decreases, and at last it breaks or becomes invisible 
 towards the lower part. Soon after the sea below resumes its 
 natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to 
 the clouds, where it is dissipated. The same tube would some- 
 times have a vertical, and sometimes a crooked or inclined direc- 
 tion. The most rational account I have read of waterspouts is 
 in Falconer's Marine Dictionary, which is chiefly collected from 
 the philosophical writings of the ingenious Dr. Franklin. I have 
 been told that the firing of a gun will dissipate them, and I am 
 very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough; 
 and had a gun ready for the purpose ; but, as soon as the danger 
 
 J 
 
Second Voyage. 213 
 
 was past, I thouglit no more about it, being too attentive in 
 viewing these extraordinary meteors. 
 
 The wind having returned to the west, we resumed our 
 course to the east ; and at daylight of the 18th, we appeared 
 off Queen Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort 
 the " Adventure,'' by the signals which she made to us ; an 
 event which, after a separation of fourteen weeks, every one 
 felt with agreeable satisfaction. 
 
 A Man's Head. 
 
 Captain Fumeaux in the account of his voyage, since parting 
 with the " Eesolution," mentioned that, in clearing a place on 
 Motuara Island for erecting tents for the sick, he was visited by 
 three canoes with about sixteen of the natives : and to induce 
 them to bring fish and other provisions he gave them several 
 things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of the 
 young officers, seeing something wrapped up in a better manner 
 than common, had the curiosity to examine what it was ; and, to 
 his great surprise, found it to be the head of a man lately killed. 
 They were very apprehensive of its being forced from them ; 
 and particularly the man who seemed most interested in it, whose 
 very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of being punished, as I had 
 expressed great abhorrence of this unnatural act. They used 
 every method to conceal the head, by shifting it from one to 
 another ; and by signs endeavouring to convince us that there 
 was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a 
 few minutes before. 
 
 I now gave Captain Fumeaux an account in writing of the 
 route I intended to take ; which was to proceed to the east, be- 
 tween the latitudes of 41° and 46° south, until I arrived in the' 
 
214 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 longitude of 140° or 135° west ; then, provided no land was 
 discovered, to proceed to Otaheite ; from thence back to this 
 place by the shortest route ; and after taking in wood and 
 water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the unknown 
 parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape 
 Horn ; therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, 
 I appointed that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was 
 to wait till the twentieth of August : if not joined by me before 
 that time, he was then to make the best of his way back to 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until the 20th of 
 November ; after which (if not joined by me), he was to put to 
 sea, and carry into execution their Lordships' instructions. 
 
 Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on 
 discoveries as far south as 46 degrees of latitude, in the very 
 depth of winter. But though it must be owned that winter is 
 by no means favourable for discoveries, it nevertheless appeared 
 to me necessary that something should be done in it, in order to 
 lessen the work I was upon, lest I should not be able to finish 
 the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific Ocean the 
 ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my 
 route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, 
 to explore it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little 
 to fear ; having two good ships well provided, and healthy crews. 
 Where then could I spend my time better ? If I did nothing 
 more, I was at least in hopes of being able to point out to pos- 
 terity that these seas may be navigated, and that it is practicable 
 to go on discoveries, even in the very depth of winter. 
 
 On the 7th of June 1773, at four in the morning, the wind 
 being favourable, we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to 
 sea, with the " Adventure" in company. 
 
Second Voyage. 215 
 
 Getting clear of the Straits, I directed my course S.E. by E. ; 
 and on the 1 1th August, at daybreak, land was seen to the south. 
 This, upon a nearer approach, we found to be one of those isles 
 discovered by M. Bougainville, latitude of 17° 24', longitude 
 141° 39' west; and I called it, after the name of the ship, Ee- 
 solution Island. The sickly state of the " Adventure's" crew made 
 it necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, 
 where I was sure of finding refreshments. Consequently, I did 
 not wait to examine this island, which appeared too small to 
 supply our wants, but continued my course to the west. 
 
 On the 15th August, I brought to and waited for the " Adven- 
 ture" to come up with us, to acquaint Captain Eurneaux that it 
 was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the S.E. end of 
 Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could from that 
 part of the island, before we went down to Matavai. This done, we 
 made sail, and at six in the evening saw the island bearing west. 
 
 HoRROES OF Shipwreck REiirEWED. 
 
 At daybreak we found ourselves not more than half a league 
 from the reef, in a calm. This made it necessary to hoist out our 
 boats to tow the ships off ; but all their efforts were not suffi- 
 cient to keep them from being carried near the reef. We had 
 been in hopes of getting round the western point of the reef and 
 into the bay, through an opening or break in the reef. But on 
 examining it, I found there was not a sufficient depth of water ; 
 though it caused such an indraught of the tide of flood through 
 it, as was very near proving fatal to the " Eesolution ;" for as soon 
 as the ships got into this stream, they were carried with great 
 impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived this, I 
 ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness. 
 
2i6 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope ; but 
 it had not the least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared 
 us in the face. We were not more than two cables' length from 
 the breakers ; and yet we could find no bottom to anchor, the 
 only probable means we had left to save the ships. We, however, 
 dropped an anchor ; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, 
 the ship was in less than three fathoms water, and struck at 
 every fall of the sea, which broke close under our stern in a 
 dreadful surf, and threatened us every moment with shipwreck. 
 The " Adventure," very luckily, brought up close upon our bow 
 without striking. 
 
 We presently carried out two kedge anchors, with hawsers to 
 each. These found ground a little without the bower, but in 
 what depth we never knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting 
 away the bower anchor, we got the ship afloat, where we lay some 
 time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either 
 the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by 
 the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. 
 I ordered all the boats to try to tow off the "Eesolution ;" and 
 when I saw this was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. 
 At that moment, a light air came off from the land, which so 
 much assisted the boats, that we soon got clear of all danger. 
 Then I ordered all the boats to assist the *' Adventure ;" but before 
 they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, and 
 soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coast- 
 ing cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus 
 we were once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being 
 wrecked on the very island we, but a few days before, so ardently 
 wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into this dangerous 
 situation, very fortunately continued ; for, had the sea-breeze, as 
 
Second Voyage. 217 
 
 is usual, set in, the " Eesolution" must inevitably have been lost, 
 and probably the " Adventure" too. 
 
 During the time we were in this critical situation, a number 
 of the natives were on board and about the ships ; they seemed 
 to be insensible of our danger, showing not the least surprise, 
 joy, or fear, when we were striking, and left us little before sun- 
 set, quite unconcerned. 
 
 It was not till the evening of the 25th that we arrived in 
 Matavai Bay. 
 
 Otaheite again. 
 
 Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with 
 the natives; many of whom I knew, and almost all of them 
 knew me. A great crowd were got to- 
 gether upon the shore ; amongst whom 
 was Otoo their king. I was just going 
 to pay him a visit, when I was told 
 he was mataov^d and gone to Oparree. 
 I could not conceive the reason of his 
 going off in a fright, as every one 
 seemed pleased to see me. A chief 
 whose name was Maritata was at this 
 time on board, and advised me to put 
 
 otoo, King of otaheite. 
 
 off my visit till the next morning, 
 
 when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did. 
 
 After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception 
 of the sick, coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 
 26th for Oparree ; accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Forster, 
 and others, Maritata and his wife. As soon as we landed, we 
 were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated on the ground 
 
21 8 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd round him. 
 After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such 
 articles as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes ; well know- 
 ing that it was my interest to gain the friendship of this man. 
 I also made presents to several of his attendants ; and, in return, 
 they offered me cloth, which I refused to accept ; telling them 
 that what I had given was for tiyo (friendship). The king in- 
 quired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were with me on 
 my former voyage, by name ; although I do not remember that 
 he was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that 
 T should have some hogs the next day ; but I had much ado to 
 obtain a promise from him to visit on board. He said he was 
 mataou no to fowpoue, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all 
 his actions showed him to be a timorous prince. He was 
 about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, personable, 
 well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared un- 
 covered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by 
 uncovering, is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing 
 no sort of clothing above the breast. 
 
 When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the 
 astronomer's observatories, set up on the same spot where we 
 observed the transit of Venus in 1769. In the afternoon I had the 
 sick landed ; twenty from the " Adventure" all ill of the scurvy ; 
 and one from the " Eesolution." I also landed some marines for a 
 guard, and left the command to Lieutenant Edgcumbe of the 
 marines. 
 
 On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numer- 
 ous train, paid me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large 
 quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after 
 some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger 
 
Second Voyage, 219 
 
 brother, and several more of his attendants. To all of them I 
 made presents ; and, after breakfast, took the king, his sister, 
 and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried 
 them home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met 
 by a venerable old lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She 
 seized me by both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, 
 Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty Toutaha — (Toutaha, your friend, 
 or the friend of Cook, is dead). I was so much affected with her 
 behaviour, that it would have been impossible for me to have 
 refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and 
 taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him 
 to let me see her again, when I gave her an axe and some other 
 things. Captain Purneaux, who was with me, presented the king 
 with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, or 
 rather if no care at all is taken of them, will no doubt multiply. 
 
 Dancing and Comedy. 
 
 On another occasion, I entertained him and his people with 
 the bagpipes (of which music they are very fond), and dancing 
 by the seamen. He, in, return, ordered some of his people to 
 dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were, 
 however, some who could imitate the seamen tolerably well, both 
 in country dances and hornpipes. 
 
 In their theatre we were entertained with a dramatic heava, 
 or ^lay, in which were both dancing and comedy. The per- 
 formers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a 
 person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three 
 drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours ; 
 and, upon the whole, was well conducted. It was not possible 
 for us to find out the meaning of the play. Some part seemed 
 
2 20 Coo Ms Voyages. 
 
 adapted to the present time, as my name was frequently men- 
 tioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with us. 
 The dancing-dress of the lady was more elegant than any I saw 
 there, by being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, 
 hanging from the waist downward. 
 
 Mr. Pickersgill, on a visit to Attahourou, to which place I 
 had sent him, had seen old Oberea. She seemed much altered for 
 the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she 
 said were Earee, mataou ma hoa — Earee is frightened ; you can 
 have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little or no pro- 
 perty, and was herself subject to the Earee ; which I believe was 
 not the case when I was here before. 
 
 Human Sacrifices. 
 
 As I had some reason to believe that amongst their religious 
 customs human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, 
 I went one day to a Marai in Matavai, in company with Captain 
 Furneaux ; having with us, as I had upon all other occasions, 
 one of my men who spoke their language tolerably well, and 
 several of the natives, one of whom appeared to be an intelligent, 
 sensible man. In the Marai was a Twpapow, on which lay a 
 corpse and some viands ; so that everything promised success 
 to my inquiries. I began with asking questions relating to the 
 several objects before me — If the plantains, etc., were for the 
 Eatua^ If they sacrificed to the Eatua, hogs, dogs, fowls, etc.? 
 to all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked. If 
 they sacrificed men to the Eatua ? he answered, Taata eno ; that 
 is. Bad men they did, first Tvparrahy, or beating them till they 
 were dead. I then asked him. If good men were put to death in 
 this manner ? his answer was, No, only Taata eno. I asked him, 
 
Second Voyage, 221 
 
 Tf any Earees were ? he said, they had hogs to give to the Eatua ; 
 and again repeated Taata eno. I next asked him, If Towtows, 
 that is, servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but 
 yet were good men, if they were sacrificed to the Eatua ? His 
 answer was, JSTo, only bad men. I asked him several more ques- 
 tions, and all his answers seemed to tend to this one point, that 
 men for certain crimes were condemned to be sacrificed to the 
 gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem themselves. 
 This, I think, implies that, on some occasions, human sacrifices 
 are considered as necessary ; particularly when they take such 
 men as have, by the laws of the country, forfeited their lives, and 
 have nothing to redeem them ; and such will generally be found 
 among the lower class of people. 
 
 The man of whom I made these inquiries, as well as some 
 others, took some pains to explain the whole of this custom to 
 us ; but we were not masters enough of their language to under- 
 stand them. I have since learnt from Omai, that they offer 
 human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his 
 account, what men shall be so sacrificed depends on the caprice 
 of the high-priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn 
 occasion, retires alone into the house of god, and stays there 
 some time. When he comes out he informs them, that he has 
 seen and conversed with their great god (the high-priest alone 
 having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human sacrifice, 
 and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man 
 present, whom most probably the priest has an antipathy against. 
 He is immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's 
 resentment ; who, no doubt (if necessary), has address enough 
 to persuade the people that he was a bad man. 
 
 On the 1st September we put to sea, and left Otaheite. 
 
2 22 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name 
 was Poreo, came and desired I would take him with me. I con- 
 sented, thinking he might be of service to us on some occasion. 
 Many more offered themselves, but I refused to take them. This 
 youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail for his father, who 
 was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted 
 just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than 
 father and son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so ; 
 which was farther confirmed by a canoe, conducted by two men, 
 coming alongside, as we were standing out of the bay, and demand- 
 ing the young man in the name of Otoo. I now saw that the whole 
 was a trick to get something from me ; well knowing that Otoo 
 was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the 
 matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether 
 he should go or stay ; but he soon inclined to the former. I told 
 them to return me the axe and nails, and then he should go (and 
 so he really should), but they said they were ashore, and so de- 
 parted. Though the youth seemed pretty well satisfied, he could 
 not refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land astern. 
 
 HUAHEINE. 
 
 As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I di- 
 rected my course for the island of Huaheine, where I intended 
 to touch. We made it the next day, and spent the night making 
 short boards under the north end of the island. At daylight in 
 the morning of the 3d September, we made sail for the harbour 
 of Owharre ; in which the " Eesolution " anchored. As the wind 
 blew out of the harbour, I chose to turn in by the southern 
 channel, it being the widest. The " Eesolution" turned in veiy 
 well, but the " Adventure," missing stays, got ashore on the north 
 
Second Voyage. 223 
 
 side of the channel. I had the " Resolution's" launch in the water 
 ready in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately 
 to the " Adventure." By this timely assistance, she was got off 
 again, without receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by 
 this time, had come ofi* to us, bringing with them some of the 
 productions of the island ; and, as soon as the ships were both in 
 safety, I landed with Captain Fumeaux, and was received by the 
 natives with the utmost cordiality. I learnt that my old friend 
 Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and that he was hastening 
 to this part to see me. 
 
 Interesting Presentation Ceremony on my 
 First Visit to Oree. 
 
 We were conducted to the place by one of the natives, but 
 not permitted to go out of our boat, till we had gone through some 
 part of the following ceremony, usually performed at this isle, on 
 such like occasions. The boat being landed before the chief's house, 
 which stood close to the shore, five young plantain trees, which 
 are their emblems of peace, were brought on board separately, and 
 with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with their ears orna- 
 mented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three ; and a 
 dog the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather 
 too mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me 
 the inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left 
 with him in July 17G9. It was in the same bag I had made for 
 it, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, 
 put in at the same time ; which shows how well he had taken care 
 of the whole. When they had made an end of putting into the 
 boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who still remained with 
 us, desired us to decorate three young plantain trees with looking- 
 
2 24 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 glasses, nails, medals, beads, etc. etc. This being accordingly 
 done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted to- 
 wards the chief, through the multitude : they making a lane, as 
 it were, for us to pass through. We were made to sit down a few 
 paces short of the chief, and our plantains were then taken from 
 us, and one by one laid before him, as the others had been laid 
 before us. One was for Eatua (or god), the second for the Earee 
 (or king), and the third for Tiyo (or friendship.) This being done, 
 I wanted to go to the king, but was told that he would come to 
 me, which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck and embraced 
 me. This was by no means ceremonious ; the tears, which 
 trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently 
 bespoke the language of his heart. The whole ceremony being 
 over, all his friends were introduced to us, to whom we made 
 presents. Mine to the chief consisted of the most valuable 
 articles I had ; for I had regarded this man as a father. In re- 
 turn he gave me a hog and a quantity of cloth, promising that 
 all our wants should be supplied ; and it will soon appear how 
 well he kept his word. 
 
 Concern of the Natives for their King. 
 
 One of the inhabitants, who had been ver}^ troublesome and 
 insolent, was pointed out to me, completely equipped in the war 
 habit with a club in each hand ; and as he seemed bent on more 
 mischief, I took these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, 
 with some difficulty forced him to retire from the place. As they 
 told me that he was a chief, I was the more suspicious of him, 
 and sent for a guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. 
 About this time, Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone, 
 botanising, was set upon by two men, stripped of everything he 
 
Second Voyage, 225 
 
 had about him, except his trousers, struck several times with his 
 own hanger, but happily without harm. They then made off ; 
 after which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to 
 cover him, and conducted him to the trading place, where there 
 were a great number of the inhabitants. The very instant Sparr- 
 man appeared in the condition I have just mentioned, they fled 
 to a man with the utmost precipitation. My first conjectures 
 were, that they had stolen something ; but we were soon unde- 
 ceived, when we saw Sparrman, and the affair was related to us. 
 As soon as I could recal a few of the natives, and had made them 
 sensible that I should take no step to injure those who were 
 innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking with 
 us the man who came back with Sparrman, to confirm the com- 
 plaint. As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he 
 wept aloud, as did many others. After the first transports of his 
 grief were over, he began to expostulate with his people, telling 
 them (as far as we could understand) how well I had treated 
 them, both in this and my former voyage, and how base it was 
 in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute 
 account of the stolen articles, promised to do all in his powder to 
 recover them, and rising up, desired me to follow him to my 
 boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, appre- 
 hensive of his safety, they used every argument to dissuade him 
 from what they, no doubt, thought a rash step. He hastened 
 into the boat, notwithstanding all they could do or say. As soon 
 as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my power, they set up 
 a great outcry. The grief they showed was inexpressible ; every 
 face was bedewed with tears ; they prayed, entreated — nay, 
 attempted to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my en- 
 treaties to theirs, for I could not bear to see them in such distress. 
 
 Q 
 
2 26 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 All that could be said or done availed nothing ; he insisted on 
 my coming into the boat, which was no sooner done than he 
 ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit equal to that of 
 her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose his 
 going. After some trouble, the stolen property was recovered. 
 
 On the 7th September, early in the morning, while the ships 
 were unmooring, I went to pay my farewell visit to Oree, ac- 
 companied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster. We took 
 with us, for a present, such things as were not only valuable but 
 useful I also left with him the inscription-plate he had before 
 in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were en- 
 graved these words, "Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's 
 ships *Eesolution' and 'Adventure,' September 1773," together with 
 some medals, all put up in a bag ; of which the chief promised 
 to take care, and to produce to the first ship or ships that should 
 arrive at the island. 
 
 During our short stay at this small but fertile isle, we procured 
 to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and 
 fruits ; and, had we staid longer, might have got many more ; 
 for none of these articles of refreshment were seemingly dimin- 
 ished, but appeared everywhere in as great abundance as ever. 
 
 Omai. 
 
 Before we quitted this island. Captain Furneaux agreed to 
 receive on board his ship a young man named Omai, a native of 
 Ulietea, where he had some property, of which he had been dispos- 
 sessed by the people of Bolabola. I at first rather wondered that 
 Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with this man, who, 
 in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of 
 these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth or ac- 
 
Second Voyage. 227 
 
 quired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion. 
 For their people of the first rank are much fairer^ and usually 
 better behaved and more intelligent, than the 
 middling class of people, among whom Omai is 
 to be ranked. I have, however, since my arrival 
 in England, been convinced of my error ; for ex- 
 cepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly 
 of a deeper hue than that of the earees or gentry, 
 who, as in other countries, live a more luxu- °™^ 
 
 rious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I much 
 doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more 
 general satisfaction by his behaviour among us. 
 
 Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the 
 Eirst Lord of the Admiralty, introduced him to his Majesty at 
 Kew, when he met with a most gracious reception. He embarked 
 with me in the " Eesolution," when she was fitted out for another 
 voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and 
 full of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he 
 had experienced among us. 
 
 Public Dinner at Ulietea — Two whole Pigs. 
 
 The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea 
 (where I intended to stop a few days). 
 
 Oreo the chief, and some of his friends, paid me a morning 
 visit. I acquainted him that I would dine with him, and desired 
 he would order two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which 
 he accordingly did ; and about one o'clock I and the officers of 
 both ships went to partake of them. When we came to the 
 chiefs house, we found the cloth laid ; that is, green leaves were 
 strewed thick on the floor. Eound them we seated ourselves : 
 
228 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 presently one of the pigs came over my head souse upon the 
 leaves, and immediately after the other ; both so hot as hardly 
 to be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread- 
 fruit and plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for 
 drink. Each man being ready, with his knife in his hand, we 
 turned to without ceremony ; and it must be owned, in favour 
 of their cookery, that victuals were never cleaner, nor bettei 
 dressed. For though the pigs were served up whole, and the 
 one weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about 
 half as much, yet aU. the parts were equally well done, and ate 
 much sweeter than if dressed in any of our methods. The chief 
 and his son, and some other of his male friends, ate with us, and 
 pieces were handed to others who sat behind : for we had a vast 
 crowd about us ; so that it might be truly said we dined in 
 public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira 
 whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other 
 times when he dined with us, without ever being once 
 affected by it. As soon as we had dined, the boat's crew took 
 the remainder ; and by them, and those about them, the whole 
 was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common people 
 rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which 
 they searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to 
 believe that, though there is plenty of pork at these isles, but 
 little falls to their share. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO 
 AND LEAVING THEM THE SECOND TIME. 
 
 After leaving Ulietea, I steered to the west, inclining to the 
 south, to get clear of the tracks of former navigators, and to get 
 into the latitude of the islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam ; 
 for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch 
 there if I found it convenient, before I hauled up for New 
 Zealand. I generally lay to every night, lest we might pass any 
 land in the dark. 
 
 On the 1st of October, we made the island of Middleburg, 
 where I obtained the friendship of the chief, whose name was 
 Tioony. On leaving this I sailed for Amsterdam. 
 
 These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in 
 January 1 64)2-3 ; and were named by him. 
 
 Custom of Mutilation. 
 
 We observed that the greater part of the people, both men 
 and women, had lost one or both their little fingers. We endea- 
 voured, but in vain, to find out the reason of this mutilation ; for 
 no one would take any pains to inform us. It was neither 
 peculiar to rank, age, or sex ; nor is it done at any certain age, 
 as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been 
 just made ; and, except some young children, we found few who 
 
230 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 had both hands perfect. As it was more common among the 
 aged than the young, some of ns were of opinion that it was 
 occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other near 
 relation. But Mr. Wales one day met with a man, whose hands 
 were both perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly 
 possible his parents could be living. They also burn or make 
 incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek-bone. The reason of 
 this was equally unknown to us. In some, the wounds were 
 quite fresh ; in others, they could only be known by the scars, 
 or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor lame amongst 
 them : all appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous ; a proof of the 
 goodness of the climate in which they live. 
 
 Wonderful Luxuriousness of Nature. 
 
 Though benevolent nature has been very bountiful here, it 
 cannot be said that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the 
 curse of our forefathers : part of their bread must be earned with 
 the sweat of their brows. The high state of cultivation their 
 lands are in must have cost them immense labour. This is now 
 amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every one seems 
 to partake. J^o one wants the common necessaries of life ; joy 
 and contentment are painted in every face. Indeed, it can 
 hardly be otherwise : an easy freedom prevails among all ranks 
 of people : they feel no wants which they do not enjoy the means 
 of gratifying ; and they live in a clime where the painful ex- 
 tremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If nature has 
 been wanting in anything, it is in the article of fresh water, 
 which, as it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged 
 to dig for. A running stream was not seen, and but one well, at 
 Amsterdam. At Middleburg, we saw no water but what the 
 
Second Voyage, 231 
 
 natives had in vessels ; but as it was sweet and cool, I had na 
 doubt of its being taken up upon the island, and probably not 
 far from the spot where I saw it. 
 
 It being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and 
 then to go on further discoveries to the south and east, I sailed 
 on the 8th ; and on the morning of the 21st made the land of 
 New Zealand. As soon as the " Adventure" was up with us, we 
 made sail for Cape Kidnappers, which we passed, and continued 
 our course alongshore. 
 
 It was evident the people here had not forgot the "Endeavour" 
 being on their coast ; for the first words they spoke to us were, 
 Mataou no te pow pow (we are afraid of the guns). As they 
 could be no strangers to the affair which happened off Cape 
 Kidnapper in my former voyage, experience had taught them to 
 have some regard to these instruments of death. 
 
 As soon as they were gone we stretched off to the southward, 
 and the " Adventure,'' being a good way to leeward, we suppose 
 did not observe the signal, but stood on, consequently was sepa- 
 rated from us. I regretted her loss ; for had she been with me, 
 I should have given up aU thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound to wood and water, and have sought for a place to get 
 these articles farther south, as the wind was now favourable for 
 ranging along the coast. But our separation made it necessary 
 for me to repair to the Sound, that being the place of rendezvous. 
 
 New Zealand Cannibalism put to the Test. 
 
 While lying here, in the month of November, some of the 
 ofBiCers went on shore to amuse themselves among the natives, 
 where they saw the head and bowels of a youth, who had lately 
 
232 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 been killed, lying on the beach, and the heart stuck on a forked 
 stick which was fixed to the head of one of the largest canoes. 
 One of the ofl&cers bought the head and brought it on board, 
 where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the 
 natives, before all the officers and most of the men. I was on 
 shore at this time, but soon after returning on board, was in- 
 formed of the above circumstances, and found the quarter-deck 
 crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, or rather part 
 of it (for the under jaw and lip were wanting), lying on the 
 tafferel. The skull had been broken on the left side just above 
 the temples, and the remains of the face had all the appearance 
 of a youth under twenty. 
 
 The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circum- 
 stances, struck me with horror, and filled my mind with indigna- 
 tion against these cannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better 
 of my indignation, especially when I considered that it would 
 avail but little ; and being desirous of becoming an eye-witness of 
 a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece of the flesh to be 
 broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of these 
 cannibals ate it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect 
 on some of our people as to make them sick. The account given 
 of this in my former voyage, being partly founded on circum- 
 stances, was, as I afterwards understood, discredited by many 
 persons. Few consider what a savage man is, in his natural 
 state, and even after he is in some degree civilized. The New 
 Zealanders are certainly in some state of civilization ; their 
 behaviour to us was manly and mild, showing on all occasions 
 a readiness to oblige. They have some arts among them which 
 they execute with great judgment and unwearied patience ; they 
 are far less addicted to thieving than the other islanders of the 
 
Second Voyage, 233 
 
 South Sea ; and I believe those in the same tribe, or such as are 
 at peace one with another, are strictly honest among themselves. 
 This custom of eating their enemies slain in battle (for I firmly 
 believe they eat the flesh of no others) has, undoubtedly, been 
 handed down to them from the earliest times ; and we know it 
 is not an easy matter to wean a nation from their ancient cus- 
 toms, let them be ever so inhuman and savage ; especially if that 
 nation has no manner of connection or commerce with strangers. 
 For it is by this that the greatest part of the human race has 
 been civilized ; an advantage which the New Zealanders from 
 their situation never had. An intercourse with foreigners would 
 reform their manners, and polish their savage minds. Or, were 
 they more united under a settled form of government, they would 
 have fewer enemies ; consequently, this custom would be less 
 in use, and might in time be in a manner forgotten. At present, 
 they have but little idea of treating others as themselves would 
 wish to be treated, but treat them as they ex'ped to he treated. 
 If I remember right, one of the arguments they made use of to 
 Tupia, who frequently expostulated with them against this cus- 
 tom, was, that there could be no harm in killing and eating the 
 man who would do the same by them, if it was in his power. 
 For, said they, " Can there be any harm in eating ouj* enemies, 
 whom we have killed in battle ? Would not those very enemies 
 have done the same to us ?" I have often seen them listen to 
 Tupia with great attention ; but I never found his arguments 
 have any weight with them, or that, with all his rhetoric, he 
 could persuade any one of them that this custom was wrong ; 
 and when Oedidee and several of our people showed their ab- 
 horrence of it, they only laughed at them. 
 
 Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the 
 
234 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 prevalence of this horrid custom, the want of animal food has 
 been one ; but how far this is deducible either from facts or cir- 
 cumstances, I shall leave those to find out who advanced it. In 
 every part of New Zealand where I have been, fish was in such 
 plenty, that the natives generally caught as much as served both 
 themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs ; nor is there 
 any want of wild-fowl, which they know very well how to kill. So 
 that neither this, nor the want of food of any kind, can in my 
 opinion be the reason. But whatever it may be, I think it was 
 but too evident that they have a great liking for this kind of 
 food. 
 
 At daylight in the morning of the 26th November, we made 
 sail round Cape Palliser, firing guns as usual as we ran along the 
 shore. Every one was of opinion that the " Adventure" could 
 neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours 
 thereof. I therefore gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of 
 seeing her any more during the voyage ; as no rendezvous was 
 absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. Nevertheless, 
 this did not discourage me from fully exploring the southern 
 parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to 
 employ the whole of the ensuing season ; and I had the satisfac- 
 tion to find that not a man was dejected for the loss of our con- 
 sort, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through were in 
 the least increased by being alone ; but as cheerfully proceeding 
 to the south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as 
 if the "Adventure," or even more ships, had been in our company. 
 
 We continued our course to the south until the 30th of 
 January 1774, when we perceived the clouds over the horizon 
 to the south to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which 
 we knew announced our approach to field-ice. Soon after, it was 
 
Second Voyage, 235 
 
 seen from the topmast head ; and shortly we were close to its 
 edge. It extended east and west, far beyond the reach of our 
 sight. In the situation we were in, just the southern half of our 
 horizon was illuminated by the rays of light reflected from the 
 ice, to a considerable height. Mnety-seven ice-hills were dis- 
 tinctly seen within the field, besides those on the outside ; many 
 of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising 
 one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer 
 or northern edge of this immense field was composed of loose or 
 broken ice close packed together ; so that it was not possible for 
 anything to enter it. This was about a mile broad ; within 
 which was solid ice in one continued compact body. It was 
 rather low and flat (except the hills), but seemed to increase in 
 height, as you traced it to the south ; in which direction it ex- 
 tended beyond our sight. Such mountains of ice as these were, 
 I believe, never seen in the Greenland seas ; at least, not that I 
 ever heard or read of; so that we cannot draw a comparison 
 between the ice here and there. It must be allowed that these 
 prodigious ice mountains must add such additional weight to the 
 ice-fields which inclose them, as cannot but make a great differ- 
 ence between the navigating this icy sea and that of Greenland. 
 Being at this time in the latitude of 71° 10' S., longitude 
 106° 54' W., I will not say it was impossible anywhere to get 
 farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a 
 dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my 
 situation would have thought of It was, indeed, my opinion, 
 as well as the opinion of most on board, that this ice extended 
 quite to the pole, or perhaps joined to some land, to which it had 
 been fixed from the earliest time ; and that it is here — that is, to 
 the south of this parallel — where aU the ice we find scattered up 
 
236 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 and down to the north is first formed, and afterwards broken off 
 by gales of wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the 
 currents, which we always found to set in that direction in the 
 high latitudes. As we drew near this ice, some penguins were 
 heard, but none seen ; and but few other birds, or any other 
 thing, that could induce us to think any land was near. And 
 yet I think there must be some to the south behind this ice ; but 
 if there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other 
 animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly 
 covered. I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any 
 one had been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, 
 was not sorry at meeting with this interruption ; as it, in some 
 measure, relieved us ; at least, shortened the dangers and hard- 
 ships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar 
 regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther 
 to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking, 
 and standing back to the north.* 
 
 I now came to a resolution to proceed to the north, and to 
 spend the ensuing winter within the tropic, if I met with no 
 employment before I came there. 
 
 My intention was first to go in search of the land, said to have 
 been discovered by Juan Fernandez, above a century ago, in 
 about the latitude of 38° ; but as I failed in finding this, I went 
 in search of Easter Island or Davis's Land, whose situation was 
 known with so little certainty that the attempts lately made to 
 find it had miscarried. 
 
 * Nothing could show a sounder judgment than this decision on the part of 
 Captain Cook, who, having now penetrated to 71° 10' S., long. 106° 54' "W., wisely- 
 left it to a future navigator to discover a continent in the Southern Atlantic 
 Ocean, nearly a century afterwards — the present Admiral Sir James Clark Ross. 
 
Second Voyage. 237 
 
 Necessity no Law. 
 
 At this time I was now taken ill of the bilious colic, which 
 was so violent as to confine me to my bed ; so that the manage- 
 ment of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who 
 conducted her very much to my satisfaction. It was several 
 days before the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder were 
 removed ; during which time Mr. Patten, the surgeon, was to me 
 not only a skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse ; and I 
 should ill deserve the care he bestowed on me, if I did not 
 make this public acknowledgment. When I began to recover, 
 a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forster fell a sacrifice to my 
 tender stomach. We had no other fresh meat whatever on 
 board ; and I could eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, 
 when I could taste nothing else. Thus I received nourishment 
 and strength from food which would have made most people in 
 Europe sick ; so true it is, that necessity is governed by no law. 
 
 Eastek Island. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th March 1774, land was seen 
 from the mast-head, bearing west, which I made no doubt was 
 Davis's Land, or Easter Island, as its appearance from this situ- 
 ation corresponded very well with Wafer's account. 
 
 Some of the officers at once made an excursion into the 
 country to see what it produced, and returned again in the 
 evening, with the loss only of a hat, which one of the natives 
 snatched off the head of one of the party. 
 
 iNCroENTS OF AN EXCUKSION. 
 
 On another occasion, they followed the direction of the coast 
 
238 
 
 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 to the north-east, and for about three miles found the country- 
 very barren, in some places stript even of the soil to the bare 
 rock, which seemed to be a poor sort of iron ore. Beyond this 
 
 they came to the most fertile 
 part of the island they saw, it 
 being interspersed with plan- 
 tations of potatoes, sugar- 
 canes, and plantain trees, and 
 these not so much encumbered 
 with stones as those which 
 they had seen before; but 
 they could find no water ex- 
 cept what the natives twice 
 or thrice brought them, which, 
 though brackish and stinking, 
 was rendered acceptable by 
 the extremity of their thirst. 
 They also passed some huts, 
 the owners of which met them 
 with roasted potatoes and 
 sugar-canes, and placing them- 
 selves ahead of the foremost of the party (for they marched 
 in a line in order to have the benefit of the path), gave one to 
 each man as he passed by. They observed the same method in 
 distributing the water which they brought ; and were particularly 
 careful that the foremost did not drink too much, lest none 
 should be left for the hindmost. But at the very time these were 
 relieving the thirsty and hungry, there were not wanting others 
 who endeavoured to steal from them the very things which had 
 been given them. At last, to prevent worse consequences, they 
 
 Monuments on Easter Island. 
 
Second Voyage, 239 
 
 were obliged to fire a load of small shot at one who was so auda- 
 cious as to snatch from one of the men the bag which contained 
 everything they carried with them. The shot hit him on the 
 back ; on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then 
 fell ; but he afterwards got up and walked ; and what became of 
 him they knew not, nor whether he was much wounded. As this 
 affair occasioned some delay, and drew the natives together, they 
 presently saw the man who had hitherto led the way, and one or 
 two more, coming running towards them ; but instead of stopping 
 when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating 
 in a kind manner a few words, until our people set forwards 
 again. 
 
 Towards the eastern end of the island, they met with a well 
 whose water was perfectly fresh, being considerably above the 
 level of the sea ; but it was dirty, owing to the filthiness gr 
 cleanliness (call it which you will) of the natives, who never go 
 to drink without washing themselves all over as soon as they 
 have done ; and if ever so many of them are together, the first 
 leaps right into the middle of the hole, drinks, and washes him- 
 self without the least ceremony ; after which another takes his 
 place and does the same. 
 
 They observed that this side of the island was full of gigantic 
 statues; some placed in groups on platforms of masonry; others 
 single, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep ; and these latter 
 are in general much larger than the others. Having measured 
 one which had fallen down, they found it very near twenty-seven 
 feet long, and upwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders ; 
 and yet this appeared considerably short of the size of one they 
 saw standing ; its shade, a little past two o'clock, being sufficient 
 to shelter all the party, consisting of near thirty persons, from the 
 
240 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 rays of the sun. These statues are not, in my opinion, looked 
 upon as idols by the present inhabitants, whatever they might 
 have been in the days of the Dutch ; at least, I saw nothing that 
 could induce me to think so. On the contrary, I rather suppose 
 that they are burying-places for certain tribes or families. Here 
 they stopped to dine ; after which they repaired to a hill, from 
 whence they saw all the east and north shores of the isle, on 
 which they could not see either bay or creek fit even for a boat 
 to land in, nor the least signs of fresh water. What the natives 
 brought them here was real salt water ; but they observed that 
 some of them drank pretty plentifully of it ; so far will necessity 
 and custom get the better of nature ! On this account, they were 
 obliged to return to the last-mentioned well ; where, after having 
 quenched their thirst, they directed their route across the island 
 towards the ship. 
 
 In all this excursion, as well as the one made the preceding 
 day, only two or three shrubs were seen. The leaf and seed of 
 one (called by the natives Torromedo) were not much unlike those 
 of the common vetch ; but the pod was more like that of a 
 tamarind in its size and shape. The seeds have a disagreeable 
 bitter taste ; and the natives, when they saw our people chew 
 them, made signs to spit them out ; from whence it was con- 
 cluded that they think them poisonous. 
 
 Before I sailed from England, I was informed that a Spanish 
 ship had visited this isle in 1769. Some signs of it were seen 
 among the people now about us ; one man had a pretty good 
 broad-brimmed European hat on, another had a grego jacket, 
 and another a red silk handkerchief. They also seemed to 
 know the use of a musket, and to stand in much awe of it ; 
 but this they probably learnt from Eoggewein, who, if we 
 
Second Voyage. 241 
 
 are to believe the authors of that voyage, left them sufficient 
 tokens. 
 
 But no nation need contend for the honour of the discovery, 
 as there can he few places which afford less convenience for ship- 
 ping. There is no safe anchorage, no wood for fuel, nor any fresh 
 water worth taking on board. As Nature has been exceedingly 
 sparing of her favours, everything must be raised by dint of 
 labour, and it cannot be supposed the inhabitants plant much 
 more than is sufficient for themselves ; and as they are but few 
 in number, they cannot have much to spare to supply the wants 
 of visitant strangers. 
 
 In general, the people are slender. I did not see a man that 
 would measure six feet ; so far are they from being giants, as one 
 of the authors of Eoggewein's voyage asserts. They are brisk 
 and active, have good features, and not disagreeable countenances ; 
 are friendly and hospitable to strangers, but as much addicted to 
 pilfering as any of their neighbours. 
 
 Their hair, in general, is black ; the women wear it long, and 
 sometimes tied up on the crown of the head ; but the men wear 
 it and their beards cropped short. Their head-dress is a round 
 fillet adorned with feathers, and a straw bonnet something like a 
 Scotch one ; the former, I believe, being chiefly worn by the men, 
 and the latter by the women. Both men and women have very large 
 holes, or rather slits, in their ears, extended to near three inches 
 in length. They sometimes turn this slit over the upper part, 
 and then the ear looks as if the flap was cut off. The chief ear 
 ornaments are the white down of feathers, and rings, which they 
 wear in the inside of the hole, made of some elastic substance, 
 rolled up like a watch-spring. I judged this was to keep the 
 hole at its utmost extension. 
 
 R 
 
242 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 After leaving Easter Island, I steered north-west by north, 
 and north-north-west, with a fine easterly gale, for the Marquesas, 
 discovered by Mendana in 1595. The first isle we reached was 
 a new discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after the young 
 gentleman who first saw it ; the second was that of St. Pedro ; 
 the third, La Dominica; and the fourth, St. Christina. We 
 ranged the south-east coast of La Dominica without seeing the 
 least signs of anchorage, till we came to the channel that divides 
 it from St. Christina, through which we passed, hauled over for 
 the last-mentioned island, and ran along the coast to the south- 
 west until we anchored in Mendana's Port. 
 
 This was no sooner done, than about thirty or forty of the 
 natives came off to us in ten or twelve canoes ; but it required 
 some address to get them alongside. At last, a hatchet and some 
 spike-nails induced the people in one canoe to come under the 
 quarter-gallery ; after which all the others put alongside, and 
 having exchanged some bread-fruit and fish, for small nails, etc., 
 retired ashore, the sun being already set. We observed a heap 
 of stones in the bow of each canoe, and every man to have a 
 sling tied round his hand. 
 
 Canoe of the Marquesas Islands. 
 
 The Marquesas were first discovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, 
 and from him obtained the general name they now bear. They 
 are five in number, viz., La Magdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica, 
 Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which is the northernmost. 
 
Second Voyage. 
 
 243 
 
 St. Cliristina stretches north and south, is nine miles long, and 
 about seven leagues in circuit. A narrow ridge of hills of con- 
 siderable height extends the whole length of the island. There 
 are other ridges which, rising from the sea, and with an equal 
 ascent, join the main ridge. These are disjoined by deep narrow 
 valleys, which are fertile, adorned with fruit and other trees, and 
 watered by fine streams of excellent water. La Magdalena we 
 only saw at a distance. These isles occupy one degree in latitude. 
 
 Chief of the Island of St. Christina. 
 
 and near half a degree in longitude, viz., from 138° 47' to 139° 
 13' W., which is the longitude of the west end of La Dominica. 
 
 The port of Madre de Dios, which I named Eesolution Bay, 
 is situated near the middle of the west side of St. Christina, and 
 under the highest land in the island. 
 
 The men are punctured, or curiously tattooed^ from head to 
 
244 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 foot. But not the women and young children, who are therefore 
 as fair as some Europeans. The men are in general tall ; that is, 
 about five feet ten inches or six feet ; but I saw none that were 
 fat and lusty like the Earees of Otaheite. 
 
 Their principal head-dress,^ and what appears to be their chief 
 ornament, is a sort of broad fillet, curiously made of the fibres of 
 the husk of cocoa-nuts. In the front is fixed a mother-of-pearl 
 shell, wrought round to the size of a tea-saucer ; before that, 
 another, smaller, of very fine tortoise-shell, perforated into curious 
 figures. Also before, and in the centre of that, is another round 
 piece of mother-of-pearl, about the size of half-a-crown ; and be- 
 fore this, another piece of perforated tortoise-shell, the size of a 
 shilling. Besides this decoration in front, some have it also on 
 each side, but in smaller pieces ; and all have fixed to them the 
 tail-feathers of cocks or tropic-birds, which, when the fillet is tied 
 on, stand upright ; so that the whole together makes a very 
 sightly ornament. They wear round the neck a kind of ruff or 
 necklace, call it which you please, made of light wood, the out 
 and upper side covered with small red peas, which are fixed on 
 with gum. They also wear small bunches of human hair, 
 fastened to a string, and tied round the legs and arms. 
 
 When I found this island was not likely to supply us, on any 
 conditions, with sufficient refreshments, such as we might ex- 
 pect to find at the Society Isles, nor very convenient for taking 
 in wood and water, nor for giving the ship the necessary repairs 
 she wanted, I resolved forthwith to leave it, and proceed to some 
 other place where our wants might be effectually relieved. For, 
 after having been nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time 
 upon salt diet, we could not but want some refreshments ; 
 although I must own, and that with pleasure, that on our arrival 
 
Second Voyage, 245 
 
 here, it could hardly be said we had one sick man, and but a few 
 who had the least complaint. This was undoubtedly owing to 
 the many antiscorbutic articles we had on board, and to the 
 great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to 
 apply them in time. 
 
 I therefore steered for Otaheite, falling in with some of those 
 islands discovered by former navigators, especially the Dutch, 
 whose situations are not well determined, and made the high 
 land of Otaheite on the 21 st April, anchoring in Matavai Bay as 
 formerly. This was no sooner known to the natives than many 
 of them made us a visit, and expressed not a little joy at seeing 
 us again. As my chief reason for putting in at this place was to 
 give Mr. Wales an opportunity to know the error of the watch 
 by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of going, 
 the first thing we did was to land his instruments, and to erect 
 tents for the reception of a guard and such other people as it was 
 necessary to have on shore. Sick we had none; the refresh- 
 ments we got at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of 
 that kind. 
 
 Our treatment at this isle was such as had induced one of 
 our gunner's mates to form a plan to remain at it. He know he 
 could not execute it with success while we lay in the bay, there- 
 fore took the opportunity, as soon as we were out, the boats in, 
 and sails set, to slip overboard, being a good swimmer : but he 
 was discovered before he got clear of the ship, and we presently 
 hoisted a boat out and took him up. A canoe was observed, 
 about half-way between us and the shore, seemingly coming after 
 us ; she was intended to take him up ; but as soon as the people 
 in her saw our boat they kept at a distance. This was a precon- 
 certed plan between the man and them, which Otoo was 
 
246 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 acquainted with, and had encouraged. AVhen I considered this 
 man's situation in life, I did not think him so culpable, nor the 
 resolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it 
 may at first appear. He was an Irishman by birth, and had 
 sailed in the Dutch service. I picked him up at Batavia on my 
 return from my former voyage, and he had been with me ever 
 since. I never learnt that he had either friends or connections to 
 confine him to any particular part of the world : all nations were 
 alike to him ; where then could such a man be more happy than 
 at one of these isles ? where, in one of the finest climates in the 
 world, he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries 
 of life, in ease and plenty. I know not, if he might not have 
 obtained my consent, if he had applied for it in proper time. As 
 soon as we had got him on board, and the boat in, I steered for 
 Huaheine and Ulietea, in order to pay a visit to our friends there. 
 
 At one o'clock in the afternoon on the 15th we anchored in 
 the north entrance of O'Wharre harbour, in the island of 
 Huaheine ; hoisted out the boats, warped into a proper berth, 
 and moored with the bower and kedge anchor, not quite a cable's 
 length from the shore. While this was doing, several of the 
 natives made us a visit, amongst whom was old Oree, the chief, 
 who brought a hog, and some other articles, which he presented 
 to me, with the usual ceremony. 
 
 The people are, in general, more superstitious than at Otaheite. 
 At the first visit I made the chief after our arrival, he desired I 
 would not suffer any of my people to shoot herons and wood- 
 peckers ; birds as sacred with them as robin-redbreasts, swallows, 
 etc., are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a 
 priest, and well acquainted with their religion, customs, traditions, 
 etc., paid no regard to these birds. 
 
Second Voyage. 247 
 
 When I first came here, I had some thought of visiting 
 Tupia*s famous Bo],abola. But as I had now got on board a 
 plentiful supply of all manner of refreshments, and the route I 
 had in view allowing me no time to spare, I laid this design 
 aside, and directed my course to the west ; taking our final leave 
 of these happy isles, on which benevolent nature has spread her 
 luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives, copying the 
 bounty of nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully 
 and cheerfully to the wants of navigators. During the six weeks 
 we remained at them, we had fresh pork, and all the fruits which 
 were in season, in the utmost profusion ; besides fish at Otaheite, 
 and fowls at the other isles. All these articles we got in ex- 
 change for axes, hatchets, nails, chisels, cloth, red feathers, beads, 
 knives, scissars, looking-glasses, shirts, etc., articles which will 
 ever be valuable here. 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLES. 
 (1774.) 
 
 On the 6tli June, being the day after leaving Ulietea, we saw 
 land bearing N.W., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to 
 be a low reef island about four leagues in compass, and of a 
 circular form. This is Howe Island, discovered by Captain 
 Wallis, who, I think, sent his boat to examine it, 
 
 Palmerston Island. 
 
 From this day we met with nothing remarkable, until the 
 16th, when, haK an hour after sunrise, land was seen from the 
 topmast head. We immediately altered the course, and steering 
 for it, found it to be another reef island, composed of five or six 
 woody islets, connected together by sand-banks and breakers, 
 inclosing a lake, into which we could see no entrance. We 
 ranged the West and N.W. coasts, from its southern to its 
 northern extremity, which is about two leagues ; and so near the 
 shore, that at one time we could see the rocks under us ; yet we 
 found no anchorage, nor saw we any signs of inhabitants. There 
 were plenty of various kinds of birds, and the coast seemed to 
 abound with fish. The situation of this isle is not very distant 
 from that assigned by Mr. Dalrymple for La Sagitaria, discovered 
 by Quiros ; but, by the description the discoverer has given of 
 it, it cannot be the same. For this reason I looked upon it as a 
 
Second Voyage. 249 
 
 new discovery, and named it Palmerston Island, in honour of 
 Lord Palmerston, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 Incident at Savage Island, June 1774. 
 
 As we drew- near the shore, some of the inhabitants, who 
 were on the rocks, retired to the woods, to meet us, as we sup- 
 posed ; and we afterwards found our conjectures right. We landed 
 with ease in a small creek, took post on a high rock to prevent 
 a surprise, displayed our colours, and Mr. Forster and his party 
 began to coUect plants. The coast was so overrun with woods, 
 bushes, plants, stones, etc., that we could not see forty yards 
 round us. I took two men, and with them entered a kind of 
 chasm, which opened a way into the woods. We had not gone 
 far before we heard the natives approaching ; upon which I caUed 
 to Mr. Forster to retire to the party, as I did likewise. We had no 
 sooner joined, than the islanders appeared at the entrance of a 
 chasm not a stone's throw from us. We began to speak, and 
 make all the friendly signs we could think of to them, which 
 they answered by menaces ; and one of two men, who were ad- 
 vanced before the rest, threw a stone, which struck Mr. Sparr- 
 man on the arm. Upon this two muskets were fired, without 
 order, which made them all retire under cover of the woods ; and 
 we saw them no more. 
 
 After waiting some little time, and till we were satisfied 
 nothing was to be done here, the country being so overrun with 
 bushes that it was hardly possible to come to parley with them, 
 we embarked and proceeded dowu along shore, in hopes of meet- 
 ing with better success in another place. After ranging the 
 coast for some miles without seeing a living soul, or any con- 
 venient landing-place, we at length came before a small beach, 
 
250 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 on wMch lay four canoes. Here we landed by means of a little 
 creek, formed by the flat rocks before it, with a view of just 
 looking at the canoes, and to leave some medals, nails, etc., in 
 them, for not a soul was to be seen. The situation of this place 
 was to us worse than the former. A flat rock lay next the sea ; 
 behind it a narrow stone beach ; this was bounded by a perpen- 
 dicular rocky cliff of unequal height, whose top was covered with 
 shrubs ; two deep and narrow chasms in the cliff seemed to open 
 a communication into the country. In or before one of these lay 
 the four canoes which we were going to look at ; but in the doing 
 of this, I saw we should be exposed to an attack from the natives, 
 if there were any, without being in a situation proper for a 
 defence. To prevent this as much as coiild be, and to secure a 
 retreat in case of an attack, I ordered the men to be drawn up 
 upon the rock, from whence they had a view of the heights ; and 
 only myself and four of the gentlemen went up to the canoes. 
 We had been there but a few minutes, before the natives, I 
 cannot say how many, rushed down the chasm out of the wood 
 upon us. The endeavours we used to bring them to a parley 
 were to no purpose ; for they came with the ferocity of wild 
 boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged 
 in the air, did not hinder one of them from advancing still 
 farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which 
 passed close over my shoulder. His courage would have cost 
 him his life, had not my musket missed fire ; for I was not five 
 paces from him when he threw his spear, and had resolved to 
 shoot him to save myself. I was glad afterwards that it hap- 
 pened as it did. At this instant, our men on the rock began to 
 fire at others who appeared on the heights, which abated the 
 ardour of the party we were engaged with, and gave us time to 
 
Second Voyage. 251 
 
 join our people, when I caused the firing to cease. The last 
 discharge sent all the islanders to the woods, from whence they 
 did not return so long as we remained. We did not know that 
 any were hurt. It was remarkable, that when I joined our party, 
 I tried my musket in the air, and it went off as well as a piece 
 could do. Seeing no good was to be got with these people, or at 
 the isle, as having no port, we returned on board, and having 
 hoisted in the boats, made sail to W.S.W. I had forgot to men- 
 tion, in its proper order, that having put ashore a little before we 
 came to this last place, three or four of us went upon the cliffs, 
 where we found the country, as before, nothing but coral rocks, 
 all overrun with bushes ; so that it was hardly possible to pene- 
 trate into it, and we embarked again with intent to return directly 
 on board, till we saw the canoes ; being directed to the place by 
 the opinion of some of us, who thought they heard some people. 
 The conduct and aspect of these islanders occasioned my 
 naming it Savage Island. 
 
 Coral Eocks. 
 
 All the sea-coast, and as far inland as we could see, is wholly 
 covered with trees, shrubs, etc., amongst which were some cocoa- 
 nut trees ; but what the interior parts may produce we know 
 not. To judge of the whole garment by the skirts, it cannot pro- 
 duce much ; for so much as we saw of it consisted wholly of 
 coral rocks, all overrun with wood and bushes. Not a bit of 
 soil was to be seen ; the rocks alone supplying the trees with 
 humidity. If these coral rocks were first formed in the sea 
 by animals, how came they thrown up to such a height ? Has 
 this island been raised by an earthquake? Or has the sea 
 receded from it ? Some philosophers have attempted to account 
 
252 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 for the formation of low isles, such as are in this sea ; but I do 
 not know that anything has been said of high islands, or such as 
 I have been speaking of. In this island, not only the loose rocks 
 which cover the surface, but the cliffs which bound the shores, 
 are of coral stone, which the continual beating of the sea has 
 formed into a variety of curious caverns, some of them very 
 large : the roof or rock over them being supported by pillars, 
 which the foaming waves have formed into a multitude of shapes, 
 and made more curious than the caverns themselves. 
 
 Keception at the Friendly Isles (Anamocka), June 24. 
 The Surgeon Kobbed of his Gun. 
 
 Anamocka, as it is caUed by the natives, was first discovered 
 by Tasman, and by him named Eotterdam. It is of a triangular 
 form, each side whereof is about three and a half or four miles. 
 A salt-water lake in the middle of it occupies not a little of its 
 surface, and in a manner cuts off the S.E. angle. Eound the 
 island lie scattered a number of small isles, sand-banks, and 
 breakers. We could see no end to their extent to the north ; 
 and it is not impossible that they reach as far south as Amster- 
 dam or Tongatabu. These, together with Middleburg, or Eaoowee, 
 and Pylstart, make a group, containing about three degrees of 
 latitude and two of longitude, which I have named the Friendly 
 Isles or Archipelago, as a firm reliance and friendship seem to 
 subsist among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour 
 to strangers entitles them to that appellation ; under which we 
 might perhaps extend their group much farther, even north to 
 Boscawen and Keppel's Isles, discovered by Captain Wallis, and 
 lying nearly under the same meridian. 
 
 I went ashore here, with two boats, to trade with the people, 
 
Second Voyage, 253 
 
 accompanied by several of the officers, and ordered the launch to 
 follow with casks to be filled with water. The natives assisted 
 lis to roll them to and from the pond ; and a nail or a bead was 
 the expense of their labour. Fruit and roots, especially shaddocks 
 and yams, were brought down in such plenty, that the two boats 
 were laden, sent off, cleared, and laden a second time, before noon ; 
 by which time also the launch had got a full supply of water, 
 and the botanical and shooting parties had aU come in, except 
 the surgeon, for whom we could not wait, as the tide was ebbing 
 fast out of the cove ; consequently he was left behind. As 
 there is no getting into the cove with a boat, from between half 
 ebb to half flood, we could get off no water in the afternoon. 
 However, there is a very good landing-place without it, near the 
 southern point, where boats can get ashore at all times of the 
 tide ; here some of the officers landed after dinner, where they 
 found the surgeon, who had been robbed of his gun. Having 
 come down to the shore some time after the boats had put off, 
 he got a canoe to bring him on board ; but as he was getting 
 into her, a fellow snatched hold of the gun, and ran off with it. 
 After that no one would carry him to the ship, and they would 
 have stripped him, as he imagined, had he not presented a tooth- 
 pick case, which they, no doubt, thought was a little gun. As 
 soon as I heard of this, I landed at the place above mentioned, 
 and the few natives who were there fled at my approach. After 
 landing, I went in search of the officers, whom I found in the 
 cove, where we had been in the morning, with a good many of 
 the natives about them. No step had been taken to recover the 
 gun, nor did I think proper to take any ; but in this I was 
 wrong. The easy manner of obtaining this gun, which they now, 
 no doubt, thought secure in their possession, encouraged them to 
 
2 54 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 proceed in these tricks ; for, on the 28th, when Lieutenant Gierke 
 with the master and fifteen men went again on shore for water, 
 the launch was no sooner landed than the natives gathered about 
 her, behaving in so rude a manner, that the officers were in some 
 doubt if they should land the casks ; and, with difficulty, got 
 them filled, and into the boat again. In the doing of this, Mr. 
 Gierke's gun was snatched from him, and carried off; as were 
 also some of the cooper's tools ; and several of the people were 
 stripped of one thing or another. All this was done, as it were, 
 by stealth ; for they laid hold of nothing by main force. As 
 soon as the natives, who were pretty numerous on the beach, saw 
 me, they fled ; so that I suspected something had happened. I 
 quickly came to a resolution to obKge them to make restitution ; 
 and, for this purpose, ordered all the marines to be armed and 
 sent on shore. I ordered two or three guns to be fired from the 
 ship, in order to alarm Forster and his party, who had gone into 
 the interior ; not knowing how the natives might act on this 
 occasion. I then sent all the boats off but one, with which I 
 stayed, having a good many of the natives about me, who behaved 
 with their usual courtesy. I made them so sensible of my inten- 
 tion, that long before the marines came, the musket was brought, 
 but they used many excuses to divert me from insisting on the 
 other. At length Mr. Edgcumbe, arriving with the marines, 
 alarmed them so much, that some of them fled. The first step I 
 took was to seize on two large double-sailing canoes which were 
 in the cove. One fellow making resistance, I fired some small 
 shot at him, and sent him limping off. The natives being now 
 convinced that I was in earnest, all fled ; but on my calling to 
 them, many returned ; and, presently after, the other musket was 
 brought and laid at my feet. That moment I ordered the 
 
Second Voyage. 255 
 
 canoes to be restored, to show them on what account they were 
 detained. 
 
 Cook accused of want of Gallantey. 
 
 On my returning from the pond to the cove, I found a good 
 many people collected together, from whom we understood that the 
 man I had fired at was dead. This story I treated as improbable, 
 and addressed a man, who seemed of some consequence, for the 
 restitution of a cooper's adze we had lost in the morning. He 
 immediately sent away two men, as I thought, for it ; but I soon 
 found that we had greatly mistaken each other ; for, instead of 
 the adze, they brought the wounded man, stretched out on a 
 board, and laid him down by me, to all appearance dead. I was 
 much moved at the sight ; but soon saw my mistake, and that he 
 was only wounded in the hand and thigh. I therefore desired 
 he might be carried out of the sun, and sent for the surgeon to 
 dress his wounds. In the meantime, I addressed several people 
 for the adze ; for as I had now nothing else to do, I determined 
 to have it. The one I applied the most to, was an elderly 
 woman, who had always a great deal to say to me, from my first 
 landing ; but on this occasion, she gave her tongue full scope. I 
 understood but little of her eloquence ; and all I could gather 
 from her arguments was, that it was mean in me to insist on the 
 return of so trifling a thing. But when she found I was deter- 
 mined, she and three or four more women went away ; and soon 
 after the adze was brought me, but I saw her no more. 
 
 This I was sorry for, as I wanted to make her a present, in 
 return for the part she had taken in all our transactions, private 
 as well as public. For I was no sooner returned from the pond, 
 the first time I landed, than this old lady presented to me a girl, 
 
256 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 giving me to understand she was at my service. Miss, who 
 probably had received her instructions, wanted, as a preliminary 
 article, a spike-nail, or a shirt, neither of which I had to give her, 
 and soon made them sensible of my poverty. I thought, by that 
 means, to have come off with flying colours ; but I was mistaken ; 
 for they gave me to understand I might retire with her on credit. 
 On my declining this proposal, the old lady began to argue with 
 me, and then abuse me. Though I comprehended little of what 
 she said, her actions were expressive enough, and shewed that 
 her words were to this effect, sneering in my face, saying, What 
 sort of a man are you, thus to refuse the embraces of so fine a 
 young woman ? For the girl certainly did not want beauty ; 
 which, however, I could better withstand, than the abuses of this 
 worthy matron, and therefore hastened into the boat. They 
 wanted me to take the young lady aboard ; but this could not 
 be done, as I had given strict orders, before I went on shore, 
 to suffer no woman, on any pretence whatever, to come into 
 the ship. 
 
 Stirring Accident at Mallicollo, July 21. 
 
 On arriving at this island on our way to the New-Hebrides, 
 a good many came round us, some in canoes, and others swim- 
 ming. I soon prevailed on one to come on board ; which he no 
 sooner did than he was followed by more than I desired ; so that 
 not only our deck but rigging was presently filled with them. I 
 took four into the cabin, and gave them various articles, which 
 they showed to those in the canoes, and seemed much pleased 
 with their reception. While I was thus making friends with 
 those in the cabin, an accident happened that threw all into 
 confusion, but in the end, I believe, proved advantageous to 
 
Second Voyage, 257 
 
 us. A fellow in a canoe having been refused admittance into 
 one of our boats that lay alongside, bent his bow to shoot a 
 poisoned arrow at the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen 
 prevented his doing it at that instant, and gave time to acquaint 
 me with it. I ran instantly on deck, and saw another man 
 struggling with him ; one of those who had been in the cabin, and 
 had leaped out of the window for this purpose. The other 
 seemed resolved, shook him off, and directed his bow again to 
 the boat-keeper ; but on my calling to him, pointed it at me. 
 Having a musket in my hand, loaded with small-shot, I gave 
 him the contents. This staggered him for a moment, but did 
 not prevent him from holding his bow still in the attitude of 
 shooting. Another discharge of the same nature made him drop 
 it, and the others, who were in the canoe, to paddle off with all 
 speed. At this time, some began to shoot arrows on the other 
 side. A musket discharged in the air had no effect ; but a four- 
 pound shot over their heads sent them off in the utmost confusion. 
 Many quitted their canoes and swam on shore : those in the 
 great cabin leaped out of the windows ; and those who were on 
 deck, and on different parts of the rigging, all leaped overboard. 
 After this we took no farther notice of them, but suffered 
 them to come off and pick up their canoes ; and some even 
 ventured again alongside the ship. Immediately after the great 
 gun was fired, we heard the beating of drums on shore ; which 
 was, probably, the signal for the countiy to assemble in arms. 
 Notwithstanding this untoward event, it was necessary for us to 
 land, to cut wood, of which we were in want, and to try to get 
 some refreshments, nothing of this kind having been seen in any 
 of the canoes. 
 
 The next morning accordingly, we put off in two boats, and 
 
 8 
 
258 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who were 
 assembled on the shore. Though they were all armed with bows 
 and arrows, clubs and spears, they made not the least opposition. 
 On the contrary, seeing me advance alone, with nothing but a 
 green branch in my hand, one of them, who seemed to be a chief, 
 gave his bow and arrows to another, and met me in the water, 
 bearing also a green branch. This he exchanged for the one I. 
 held, and then took me by the hand, and led me up to the crowd. 
 I immediately distributed presents to them, and in the meantime, 
 the marines were drawn up on the beach. I then made signs 
 (for we understood not a word of their language) that we wanted 
 wood ; and they made signs to us to cut down the trees. By this 
 time, a small pig was brought down and presented to me, and I 
 gave the bearer a piece of cloth, with which he seemed well 
 pleased. This made us hope that we should soon have some 
 more ; but we were mistaken. The pig was not brought to be 
 exchanged for what we had, but on some other account ; probably 
 as a peace-offering. 
 
 This ape-like people, in general, are the most ugly, ill-pro- 
 portioned I ever saw, and in every respect different from any we 
 had met with in this sea. They are a very dark-coloured and 
 rather diminutive race ; with long heads, flat faces, and monkey 
 countenances. Their hair, mostly black or brown, is short and 
 curly ; but not quite so soft and woolly as that of a negro. 
 Their beards are very strong, crisp, and bushy, and generally 
 black and short. But what most adds to their deformity, is a 
 belt, or cord, which they wear round the waist, and tie so tight, 
 that the shape of their bodies is not unlike that of an over- 
 grown ant. 
 
 The letter E is used in many of their words ; and frequently two 
 
Second Voyage, 259 
 
 or three being joined together, we found it difficult to pronounce. 
 I observed that they could pronounce most of our words with 
 great ease. They express their admiration by hissing like a 
 goose. 
 
 Alarming Scuffle at Erromanga* August 1774. 
 
 On the 3d August at sunrise, we found ourselves abreast a 
 lofty promontory on the S.E. side of the island of Erromanga, and 
 about three leagues from it. Having but little wind, and that 
 from the south, right in our teeth, and being in want of fire-wood, 
 I sent Lieutenant Gierke with two boats to a small islet which lies 
 off the promontory, to endeavour to get some. In the meantime 
 we continued to ply up with the ship ; but what we gained by 
 our sails, we lost by the current. At length, towards noon, we 
 got in with the land, under the N.W. side of the head, where we 
 anchored, half a mile from shore. Many people appeared on the 
 shore, and some attempted to swim off to us ; but having occasion 
 to send the boat ahead to sound, they retired as she drew near 
 them. This, however gave us a favourable idea of them. 
 
 On the 4th, at daybreak, I went with two boats to examine 
 the coast, to look for a proper landing-place, wood, and water. 
 At this time the natives began to assemble on the shore, and by 
 signs invited us to land. I went first to a small beach, which is 
 towards the head, where I found no good landing, on account of 
 some rocks which everywhere lined the coast. I, however, put 
 the boat's bow to the shore, and gave cloth, medals, etc., to some 
 
 * It was here that WiUiams, the honoured missionary, lost his life in 1839, in 
 consequence of a misunderstanding with the natives ; on which account he has been 
 called the "Martyr of Erromanga." His life and labours have been published 
 under the title of " Missionary Enterprises in the South Sea Islands." 
 
26o Cook's Voyages, 
 
 people who were there. For this treatment they offered to haul 
 the boats over the breakers to the sandy beach, which I thought 
 a friendly offer, but had reason afterwards to alter my opinion. 
 When they found I would not do as they desired, they made 
 signs for us to go down into the bay, which we accordingly did, 
 and they ran along shore abreast of us, their number increasing 
 prodigiously. I put into the shore in two or three places, but, 
 not liking the situation, did not land. By this time, I believe, 
 the natives conceived what I wanted, as they directed me round a 
 rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, I stepped out of the 
 boat without wetting a foot, in the face of a vast multitude, with 
 only a green branch in my hand, which I had before got from 
 one of them. I took but one man out of the boat with me, and 
 ordered the other boat to lie to a little distance off. They received 
 me with great courtesy and politeness, and would retire back 
 from the boat on my making the least motion with my hand. A 
 man whom I took to be a chief, seeing this, made them form 
 a semicircle round the boat's bow, and beat such as attempted to 
 break through this order. This man I loaded with presents, 
 giving likewise to others, and asked by signs for fresh water, in 
 hopes of seeing where they got it. The chief immediately sent 
 a man for some, who ran to a house, and presently returned with 
 a little in a bamboo ; so that I gained but little information by 
 this. I next asked, by the same means, for something to eat ; 
 and they as readily brought me a yam and some cocoa-nuts. In 
 short, I was charmed with their behaviour ; and the only thing 
 which could give the least suspicion was, that most of them were 
 armed with clubs, spears, darts, and bows and arrows. For this 
 reason I kept my eye continually upon the chief, and watched 
 his looks as well as his actions. He made many signs to me to 
 
Second Voyage, 261 
 
 haul the boat up upon the shore, and at last slipped intc 
 the crowd, where I observed him speak to several people, and 
 then return to me, repeating signs to haul the boat up, and 
 hesitating a good deal before he would receive some spike-nails 
 which I then offered him. This made me suspect something 
 was intended, and immediately I stepped into the boat, telling 
 them by signs that I should soon return. But they were not for 
 parting so soon, and now attempted by force what they could 
 not obtain by gentler means. The gang-board happened un- 
 luckily to be laid out for me to come into the boat. I say 
 unluckily, for if it had not been out, and if the crew had been a 
 little quicker in getting the boat off, the natives might not have 
 had time to put their design into execution, nor would the fol- 
 lowing disagreeable scene have happened. As we were putting 
 off the boat, they laid hold of the gang-board, and unhooked it 
 off the boat's stern, but as they did not take it away, I thought 
 this had been done by accident, and ordered the boat in again 
 to take it up. They then themselves hooked it over the boat's 
 stern, and attempted to haul her ashore; others at the same 
 time, snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On my 
 pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, 
 but returned in an instant, seemingly determined to haul the 
 boat ashore. At the head of this party was the chief; the 
 others, who could not come at the boat, stood behind with darts, 
 stones, and bows and arrows in hand, ready to support them. 
 Signs and threats having no effect, our own safety became 
 the only consideration ; and yet I was unwilling to fire on 
 the multitude, and resolved to make the chief alone fall a 
 victim to his own treachery ; but my musket at this critical 
 moment missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of 
 
262 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the arms we held in our hands, they must now have looked upon 
 them as childish weapons, and began to let us see how much 
 better theirs were, by throwing stones and darts, and by shooting 
 arrows. This made it absolutely necessary for me to give orders 
 to fire. The first discharge threw them into confusion ; but a 
 second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach ; and, 
 after all, they continued to throw stones from behind the trees 
 and bushes, and, every now and then, to pop out and throw a 
 dart. Four lay, to all appearance dead, on the shore ; but two 
 of them afterwards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for 
 these people, that not half our muskets would go off, otherwise 
 many more must have fallen. We had one man wounded in the 
 cheek with a dart, the point of which was as thick as my finger, 
 and yet it entered above two inches ; which shows that it must 
 have come with great force, though indeed we were very near 
 them. An arrow struck Mr. Gilbert's naked breast, who was 
 about thirty yards off ; but probably it had struck something 
 before ; for it hardly penetrated the skin. The arrows were 
 pointed with hard wood. 
 
 As soon as we got on board, I ordered the anchor to be 
 weighed, with a view of anchoring near the landing-place. 
 While this was doing, several people appeared on the low rocky 
 point, displaying two oars we had lost in the scuffle. I looked 
 on this as a sign of submission, and of their wanting to give us 
 the oars. I was, nevertheless, prevailed on to fire a four-pound 
 shot at them, to let them see the effect of our great guns. The 
 ball fell short, but frightened them so much, that none were seen 
 afterwards ; and they left the oars standing up against the 
 bushes. It was now calm ; but the anchor was hardly at the 
 bow before a breeze sprung up at north, of which we took the 
 
Second Voyage. 263 
 
 advantage, set our sails, and plied out of the bay, as it did not 
 seem capable of supplying our wants, with that conveniency 
 I wished to have. Besides, I always had it in my power to re- 
 turn to this place, in case I should find none more convenient 
 farther south. 
 
 These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of 
 Mallicollo, and spoke a different language. They are of the 
 middle size, have a good shape, and tolerable features. Their 
 colour is very dark, and they paint their faces, some with black, 
 and others with red pigment. Their hair is very curly and crisp, 
 and somewhat woolly. I saw a few women, and I thought them 
 ugly. The promontory, or peninsula, I named Traitor's Head, 
 from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants. 
 
 Arrival at the Volcanic Island of Tanna. 
 
 Having found that the light we had seen in the night was 
 occasioned by a volcano, which we 
 observed to throw up vast quantities 
 of fire and smoke, with a rumbling 
 noise heard at a great distance, we 
 now made sail for the island, and, 
 presently after, discovered a small 
 inlet which had the appearance of 
 being a good harbour. In order to 
 be better informed, I sent away two 
 armed boats under the command 
 
 „ -r . , , r^ , . Man of Islands of Tanna. 
 
 01 Lieutenant Cooper, to sound it ; 
 
 and, in the meanwhile, we stood on and off with the ship, to be 
 ready to follow, or give them any assistance they might want. 
 On the east point of the entrance, we observed a number of 
 
264 CooHs Voyages. 
 
 people, and several houses and canoes ; and when our boats 
 entered the harbour they launched some, and followed them, but 
 came not near. It was not long before Mr. Cooper made the 
 signal for anchorage ; and we stood in with the ship. 
 
 While we were employed carrying out anchors to warp in by, 
 many of the natives got together in parties, on several parts of 
 the shore, all armed with bows and spears. Some swam off to 
 us, others came in canoes. At first they were shy, and kept at 
 the distance of a stone's throw ; they grew insensibly bolder ; 
 and at last, came under our stern, and made some exchanges. 
 The people in one of the first canoes, after coming as near as they 
 durst, threw towards us some cocoa-nuts. I went into a boat 
 and picked them up, giving them in return some cloth and other 
 articles. This induced others to come under the stern, and 
 alongside, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They 
 wanted to carry off everything within their reach ; they got hold 
 of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff ; 
 others attempted to knock the rings off the rudder; but the 
 greatest trouble they gave us was to look after the buoys of our 
 anchors, which were no sooner thrown out of the boats, or let go 
 from the ship, than they got hold of them. A few muskets fired 
 in the air had no effect ; but a four-pounder frightened them so 
 much, that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to 
 the water. But as soon as they found themselves unhurt, they 
 got again into their canoes ; gave us some halloos ; flourished 
 their weapons ; and returned once more to the buoys. This put 
 us to the expense of a few musketoon shot, which had the desired 
 effect. Although none were hurt, they were afterwards afraid to 
 come near the buoys ; very soon all retired on shore ; and we were 
 permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed. 
 
Second Voyage, < 265 
 
 During these transactions, a friendly old man in a small 
 canoe made several trips between us and the shore, bringing off 
 each time a few cocoa-nuts, or a yam, and taking in exchange 
 whatever we gave him. Another was on the gangway, when the 
 great gun was fired, but I could not prevail on him to stay there 
 long. Towards the evening, after the ship was moored, I landed 
 at the head of the harbour, with a strong party of men, without 
 any opposition being made by a great number of the natives who 
 were assembled in two parties, the one on our right, the other on 
 our left, armed with clubs, darts, spears, slings and stones, bows 
 and arrows. After distributing to the old people (for we could 
 distinguish no chief) and some others, presents of cloth, medals, 
 etc., I ordered two casks to be filled with water out of a pond 
 about twenty paces behind the landing-place ; giving the natives 
 to understand that this was one of the articles we wanted. Be- 
 sides water, we got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to 
 be in plenty on the trees ; but they could not be prevailed upon 
 to part with any of their weapons. These they held in constant 
 readiness, and in the proper attitudes of offence and defence ; so 
 that little was wanting to make them attack us ; at least we 
 thought so, by their pressing so much upon us, and in spite of 
 our endeavours to keep them off. Our early re-embarkiug pro- 
 bably disconcerted their scheme ; and after that they all retired. 
 The friendly old man before mentioned was in one of these 
 parties ; and we judged, from his conduct, that his temper was 
 pacific. 
 
 As we wanted to take in a large quantity both of wood and 
 water, and as, when I was on shore, I had found it practicable to 
 lay the ship much nearer the landing-place than she now was, 
 which would greatly facilitate that work, as well as overawe the 
 
266 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 natives, and enable us better to cover and protect the working 
 party on shore ; with this view, on the 6th August, we went to 
 work to transport the ship to the place I designed to moor her 
 in. While we were about this, we observed the natives assem- 
 bling from all parts, and forming themselves into two parties, as 
 they did the preceding evening, one on each side the landing- 
 place, to the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A 
 canoe, sometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two 
 or three men, now and then came oiff, bringing a few cocoa-nuts 
 or plantains. These they gave us without asking for any return ; 
 but I took care that they should always have something. Their 
 chief design seemed to be to invite us on shore. One of those 
 who came off was the old man who had already ingratiated him- 
 self into our favour. I made him understand, by signs, that they 
 were to lay aside their weapons, took those which were in the 
 canoe and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a 
 large piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood me, 
 and made my request known to his countrymen. For as soon as 
 he landed we observed him to go first to the one party, and then 
 to the other ; nor was he ever after seen by us with anything 
 like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in a 
 canoe under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with 
 which he struck the ship's side, and committed other acts of 
 defiance, but at last offered to exchange it for a string of beads, 
 and some other trifles. These were sent down to him by a line ; 
 but the moment they were in his possession, he and his com- 
 panions paddled off in all haste, without giving the club, or 
 anything else, in return. This was what I expected, and indeed 
 what I was not sorry for, as I wanted an opportunity to show the 
 multitude on shore the effect of our fire-arms, without materially 
 
Second Voyage, 267 
 
 hurting any of them. I therefore gave the fellow the contents 
 of a fowling-piece loaded with small shot (No. 3) ; and, when 
 they were above musket-shot off, I ordered some of the mus- 
 ketoons, or wall-pieces, to be fired, which made them leap out of 
 the canoe, keep under her off side, and swim with her ashore. 
 This seemed to make little or no impression. On the contrary, 
 they began to halloo, and to make sport of it. 
 
 After mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her broadside 
 to the landing-place, hardly a musket-shot off, and placing our 
 artillery in such a manner as to command the whole harbour, I 
 embarked with the marines, and a party of seamen, in three 
 boats, and rowed in for the shore. It has been already men- 
 tioned, that the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on 
 each side the landing-place. They had left a space between 
 them of about thirty or forty yards, in which were laid, 
 to the most advantage, a few small bunches of plantains, 
 a yam, and two or three roots. Between these and the water 
 were stuck upright in the sand, for what purpose I never could 
 learn, four small reeds, about two feet from each other, in 
 a line at right angles to the shore, where they remained for two 
 or three days after. The old man before mentioned, and two 
 more, stood by these things, inviting us by signs to land ; but I 
 had not forgot the trap I was so near being caught in at the last 
 island ; and this looked something like it. We answered, by 
 making signs for the two divisions to retire farther back, and 
 give us more room. The old man seemed to desire them so to 
 do, but no more regard was paid to him than to us. More were 
 continually joining them, and, except two or three old men, not 
 one unarmed. In short, everything conspired to make us be- 
 lieve they meant to attack us as soon as we should be on shore ; 
 
268 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the consequence of which was easily supposed ; many of them 
 must have been killed and wounded, and we should hardly have 
 escaped unhurt ; two things I equally wished to prevent. Since, 
 therefore, they would not give us the room we required, I 
 thought it was better to frighten them into it, than to oblige 
 them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly ordered 
 a musket to be fired over the party on our right, which was by 
 far the strongest body ; but the alarm it gave them was momen- 
 tary. In an instant they recovered themselves, and began to 
 display their weapons. One fellow showed us his backside, in a 
 manner which plainly conveyed his meaning. After this I 
 ordered three or four muskets to be fired. This was the signal for 
 the ship to fire a few great guns, which presently dispersed them * 
 and then we landed, and marked out the limits, on the right and 
 left, by a line. Our old friend stood his ground, though deserted 
 by his two companions, and I rewarded his confidence with a 
 present. The natives came gradually to us, seemingly in a more 
 friendly manner; some even without their weapons, but by far 
 the greatest part brought them ; and when we made signs to lay 
 them down, they gave us to understand that we must lay down 
 ours first. Thus all parties stood armed. The presents I made 
 to the old people, and to such as seemed to be of consequence, 
 had little effect on their conduct. They indeed climbed the cocoa- 
 nut trees, and threw us down the nuts, without requiring any- 
 thing for them ; but I took care they should always have some- 
 what in return. I observed that many were afraid to touch what 
 belonged to us ; and they seemed to have no notion of exchang- 
 ing one thing for another. I took the old man, whose name 
 we now found to be Paowang, to the woods, and made him 
 understand I wanted to cut down some trees to take on board 
 
Second Voyage, 269 
 
 the ship ; cutting some down at the same time, which we put 
 into one of our boats, together with a few small casks of water, 
 with a view of letting the people see what it was we chiefly- 
 wanted. Paowang very readily gave his consent to cut wood ; 
 nor was there anyone who made the least objection. He only 
 desired the cocoa-nut trees might not be cut down. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives began again to 
 assemble near the watering-place, armed as usual, but not in such 
 numbers as at first. After breakfast we landed, in order to cut 
 wood and fill water. I found many of the islanders much in- 
 clined to be friends with us, especially the old people ; on the 
 other hand, most of the younger were daring and insolent, and 
 obliged us to keep to our arms. 
 
 They gave us to understand, in a manner which I thought 
 admitted of no doubt, that they eat human flesh, and that 
 circumcision was practised among them. They began the subject 
 of eating human flesh of their own accord, by asking us if we 
 did ; otherwise I should never have thought of asking them such 
 a question. I have heard people argue that no nation could be 
 cannibals, if they had other flesh to eat, or did not want food ; 
 thus deriving the custom from necessity. The people of this 
 island can be under no such necessity ; they have fine pork and 
 fowls, and plenty of roots and fruits. But since we have not 
 actually seen them eat human flesh, it wiU admit of doubt with 
 some whether they are cannibals. 
 
 The Volcano at Tanna. 
 
 The volcano, which was about four miles to the west of us, 
 vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke ; and the flames 
 were seen during the night to rise above the hill which lay 
 
270 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 between us and it. At every eruption, it made a long rumbling 
 noise like tbat of thunder, or tbe blowing up of large mines. A 
 heavy shower of rain, which fell at this time, seemed to increase 
 it ; and the wind blowing from the same quarter, the air was 
 loaded with its ashes, which fell so thick that everything was 
 covered with the dust. It was a kind of fine sand or stone, 
 ground or burnt to powder, and was exceedingly troublesome to 
 the eyes. 
 
 During the whole of the 11th, the volcano was exceedingly 
 troublesome, and made a terrible noise, throwing up prodigious 
 columns of fire and smoke at each explosion, which happened 
 every three or four minutes ; and at one time great stones were 
 seen high in the air. Forster and his party went up the hill on 
 the west side of the harbour, where he found three places from 
 whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks or 
 fissures in the earth. The ground about these was exceedingly 
 hot, and parched or burnt, and they seemed to keep pace with 
 the volcano, for at every explosion of the latter, the quantity of 
 smoke or steam in these was greatly increased, and forced out so 
 as to rise in small columns, which we saw from the ship, and 
 had taken for common fires made by the natives. 
 
 A thermometer placed in a little hole made in one of them, 
 rose from 80, at which it stood in the open air, to 170. Several 
 other parts of the hill emitted smoke or steam all the day, 
 and the volcano was unusually furious, insomuch that the air 
 was loaded with its ashes. The rain which fell at this time was 
 a compound of water, sand, and earth; so that it properly 
 might be called showers of mire. Whichever way the wind was, 
 we were plagued with the ashes ; unless it blew very strong 
 indeed from the opposite direction. Notwithstanding the natives 
 
Second Voyage, . 271 
 
 seemed well enough satisfied with the few expeditions we had 
 made in the neighbourhood, they were unwilling we should ex- 
 tend them farther. As a proof of this, some undertook to guide 
 us, when we were in the country, to a place where we might see 
 the mouth of the volcano. We very readily embraced the offer, 
 and were conducted down to the harbour before we perceived 
 the cheat, as they did everything to discourage the attempt. 
 After proceeding a considerable way, therefore, I resolved, espe- 
 cially as we could get no one to be our guide, to return ; and had 
 but just put this in execution, when we met between twenty 
 and thirty people, who had collected with a design, as we judged, 
 to oppose our advancing into the country ; but as they saw us 
 returning, they suffered us to pass unmolested. Some of them 
 put us into the right road, accompanied us down the hill, made 
 us stop by the way to entertain us with cocoa-nuts, plantains, 
 and sugar-cane ; and what we did not eat on the spot, they 
 brought down the hill with us. 
 
 Thus, we found these people hospitable, civil, and good- 
 natured, when not prompted to a contrary conduct by jealousy ; 
 a conduct I cannot tell how to blame them for, especially when 
 I consider the light in which they must view us. It was im- 
 possible for them to know our real design ; we enter their ports 
 without their dai;ing to oppose ; we endeavour to land in their 
 country as friends, and it is well if this succeeds; we land 
 nevertheless, and maintain the footing we have got, by the 
 superiority of our firearms. Under such circumstances, what 
 opinion are they to form of us ? Is it not as reasonable for them 
 to think that we come to invade their country, as to pay them a 
 friendly visit ? Time, and some acquaintance with us, can only 
 convince them of the latter. These people are yet in a rude 
 
272 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 state ; and if we may judge from circumstances and appearances, 
 are frequently at war, not only with their neighbours, but among 
 themselves ; consequently must be jealous of every new face. I 
 will allow there are some exceptions to this rule to be found in 
 this sea ; but there are few nations who would willingly suffer 
 visitors like us to advance far into their country. 
 
 An Unfoetunate Shot. 
 
 As the wind was unfavourable for sailing, the guard was sent 
 on shore on the 19th, as before, and a party of men to cut up and 
 bring off the remainder of a tree from which we had got a new 
 tiller. Having nothing else to do, I went on shore with them, and 
 finding a good number of the natives collected about the landing- 
 place as usual, I distributed among them all the articles 1 had 
 with me, and then went on board for more. In less than an hour 
 I returned, just as our people were getting some large logs into 
 the boat. At the same time four or five of the natives stepped 
 forward to see what we were about, and as we did not allow them 
 to come within certain limits, unless to pass along the beach, the 
 sentry ordered them back, which they readily complied with. 
 At this time, having my eyes fixed on them, I observed the sentry 
 present his piece (as I thought at these men), and was just going 
 to reprove him for it, because I had observed that, whenever this 
 was done, some of the natives would hold up their arms, to let 
 us see that they were equally ready. But I was astonished 
 beyond measure when the sentry fired, for I saw not the least 
 cause. At this outrage most of the people fled : it was only a 
 few I could prevail on to remain. As they ran off, I observed 
 one man to fall ; and he was immediately lifted up by two others, 
 who took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led 
 
Second Voyage, 273 
 
 him off. Presently after, some came and described to me the 
 nature of his wound ; and, as I found he was not carried far, I 
 sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, I went with him 
 to the man, whom we found expiring. The ball had struck his 
 left arm, which was much shattered, and then entered his body 
 by the short ribs, one of which was broken. The rascal who 
 fired pretended that a man had laid an arrow across his bow, 
 and was going to shoot at him, so that he apprehended himself in 
 danger. But this was no more than they had always done, and 
 with no other view than to show they were armed as well as we ; 
 at least I have reason to think so, as they never Went farther. 
 
 What made this incident the more unfortunate was, it not 
 appearing to be the man who bent the bow that was shot, but 
 one who stood by him. This affair threw the natives into the 
 utmost consternation; and the few that were prevailed on to 
 stay ran to the plantations and brought cocoa-nuts, etc., which 
 they laid down at our feet. So soon were these daring people 
 humbled ! 
 
 These people are of the middle size, rather slender than other- 
 wise ; many are little, but few tall or stout ; the most of them 
 have good features, and agreeable countenances ; are like all the 
 tropical race, active and nimble ; and seem to excel in the use of 
 arms, but not to be fond of labour. They never would put a 
 hand to assist in any work we were carrying on, which the people 
 of the other islands used to delight in. But what I judge most 
 from, is their making the females do the most laborious work, as 
 if they were pack horses. I have seen a woman carrying a large 
 bundle on her back, or a child on her back and a bundle under 
 her arm, and a fellow strutting before her with nothing but a 
 club or spear, or some such thing. We have frequently observed 
 
 T 
 
274 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 little troops of women pass to and fro, along the beach, laden 
 with fruit and roots, escorted by a party of men under arms ; 
 though, now and then, we have seen a man carry a burden at 
 the same time, but not often. I know not on what account this 
 was done, nor that an armed troop was necessary. At first, we 
 thought they were moving out of the neighbourhood with their 
 effects ; but we afterwards saw them both carry out and bring 
 in every day. 
 
 I cannot say the women are beauties ; but I think them 
 handsome enough for the men, and too handsome for the use 
 that is made of them. Both sexes are of a very dark colour, 
 but not black ; nor have they the least characteristic of the negro 
 about them. They make themselves blacker than they really 
 are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour of black- 
 lead. They also use another sort which is red, and a third sort 
 brown, or a colour between red and black. All these, but 
 especially the first, they lay on with a liberal hand, not only on 
 the face, but on the neck, shoulders, and breast. 
 
 Mysterious Noise in the Woods. 
 
 During the night the wind had veered round to S.E. As 
 this was favourable for getting out of the harbour, on the 
 morning of the 20th August, we weighed anchor, and put to sea. 
 As soon as we were clear of the land, I brought to, waiting for 
 the launch which was left behind to take up a kedge-anchor and 
 hawser we had out, to cast by. About day-break a noise was 
 heard in the woods, nearly abreast of us, on the east side of the 
 harbour, not unlike singing of psalms. I was told that the like 
 had been heard at the same time every morning, but it never 
 came to my knowledge till now, when it was too late to learn 
 
Second Voyage. 275 
 
 the occasion of it. Some were of opinion that at the east point 
 of the harbour (where we observed, in coming in, some houses, 
 boats, etc.), was something sacred to religion, because some of 
 our people had attempted to go to this point, and were prevented 
 by the natives. I thought, and do still think, it was only owing 
 to a desire they showed, on every occasion, of fixing bounds to 
 our excursions. So far as we had once been, we might go again, 
 but not farther with their consent ; but by encroaching a little 
 every time, our country expeditions were insensibly extended 
 without giving the least umbrage. Besides, these morning 
 ceremonies, whether religious or not, were not performed down at 
 that point, but in a part where some of our people had been daily. 
 
 Discovery of New Caledonia. 
 
 At sunrise on the 1st of September 1774, after having stood 
 to S.W. all night, no more land was to be seen. At eight o'clock 
 on the 4th, as we were steering to the south, land was discovered 
 bearing S.S.W., and at noon it extended from S.S.E. to W. by S., 
 distant about six leagues. We continued to steer for it with a 
 light breeze at east, till five in the evening, when we were stopped 
 by a calm. To the S.E. the coast seemed to terminate in a high 
 promontory, which I named Cape Colnett, after one of my mid- 
 shipmen, who first discovered this land. Breakers were seen 
 about half-way between us and the shore ; and, behind them, 
 two or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if their 
 design had been to come off to us. 
 
 We now saw that the coast was low land, and that it was all 
 connected, except the western extremity, whi«h was an island, 
 known by the name of Balabea, as we afterwards learnt. 
 
2/6 Cook's Voyages 
 
 Speechmaking at Balabea. 
 
 I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one 
 of the natives who had attached himself to me. We landed on 
 a sandy beach before a vast number of people, who had got 
 together with no other intent than to see us ; for many of them 
 had not a stick in their hands ; consequently we were received 
 with great courtesy, and with the surprise natural for people to 
 express at seeing men and things so new to them as we must be. 
 I made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who were 
 either old men, or such as seemed to be of some note ; but he 
 took not the least notice of some women who stood behind the 
 crowd, holding my hand when I was going to give them some 
 beads and medals. Here we found the same chief who had been 
 seen in one of the canoes in the morning. His name, we now 
 learnt, was Teabooma ; and we had not been on shore above ten 
 minutes before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by 
 every individual present, he made a short speech ; and soon after 
 another chief having called for silence, made a speech also. It 
 was pleasing to see with what attention they were heard. Their 
 speeches were composed of short sentences ; to each of which two 
 or three old men answered, by. nodding their heads, and giving a 
 kind of grunt, significant, as I thought, of approbation. It was 
 impossible for us to know the purport of these speeches ; but we 
 had reason to think they were favourable to us, on whose account 
 they doubtless were made. I kept my eyes fixed on the people 
 all the time, and saw nothing to induce me to think otherwise. 
 
 While we were with them, having inquired, by signs, for 
 fresh water, some pointed to the east, and others to the west. 
 My friend undertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us 
 
Second Voyage, 277 
 
 for that pm-pose. AVe rowed about two miles up the coast to 
 the east, where the shore was mostly covered with mangrove 
 trees ; and entering amongst them, by a narrow creek or river, 
 which brought us to a little straggling village above all the 
 mangroves, there we landed, and were shewn fresh water. The 
 ground near this village was finely cultivated, being laid out in 
 plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots ; and 
 watered by little rills, conducted by art from the main stream, 
 whose source was in the hills. Here were some cocoa-nut trees, 
 which did not seem burdened with fruit. We heard the crow- 
 ing of cocks, but saw none. 
 
 A Poisonous Fish. 
 
 A fish being struck by one of the natives near the watering- 
 place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me, after my return 
 on board. It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, 
 with a large, long, ugly head. Having no suspicion of its being 
 of a poisonous nature, we ordered it to be dressed for supper ; but, 
 very luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up so 
 much time, that it was too late, so that only the liver and roe were 
 dressed, of which the two Mr. Forsters and myself did but taste. 
 About three o'clock in the morning, we found ourselves seized with 
 an extraordinary weakness and numbness all over our limbs : I had 
 almost lost the sense of feeling, nor could I distinguish between 
 light and heavy bodies, of such as I had strength to move f a 
 quart-pot full of water and a feather being the same in my hand. 
 We each of us took an emetic, and after that a sweat, which gave 
 
 * A few years since, several officers and seamen in Captain Sir Everard Home's 
 ship (the Calliope), were made seriously ill by eating fish of a poisonous nature, 
 and one or two died. It was long before the others recovered. 
 
278 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 us mucli relief. In the morning, one of tlie pigs wliicli had 
 eaten the entrails was found dead. When the natives came on 
 board, and saw the fish hang up, they immediately gave us to 
 understand it was not wholesome food, and expressed the utmost 
 abhorrence of it ; though no one was observed to do this when 
 the fish was to be sold, or even after it was purchased. 
 
 On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as 
 usual. In the afternoon, I received a message from the ofi&cer, 
 acquainting me that Teabooma, the chief, was come with a pre- 
 sent, consisting of a few yams and sugar-canes. In return I sent 
 him, amongst other articles, two dogs, both young, but nearly 
 full-grown. The one was red and white, but the other was all 
 red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention this, because 
 they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that 
 country. When the officer returned on board in the evening, he 
 informed me that the chief came attended by about twenty men, 
 so that it looked like a visit of ceremony, and it was some time 
 before he would believe the dogs were intended for him ; but as 
 soon as he was convinced, he seemed lost in an excess of joy, 
 and sent them away immediately. 
 
 Erom this little excursion, I found that we were to expect 
 nothing from these people but the privilege of visiting their 
 country undisturbed. For it was easy to see they had little else 
 than good-nature to bestow. In this they exceeded aU the 
 nations we had yet met with ; and although it did not satisfy 
 the demands of nature, it at once pleased and left our minds 
 at ease. 
 
 Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise on the 
 1 3th of September we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S. 
 stood out for the same channel we came in by. 
 
Second Voyage. 279 
 
 We continued to ply, with variable light winds, without 
 meeting with anything remarkable, till the 20th at noon, when 
 Cape Colnett bore !N^. 78° W., distant six leagues. From this 
 cape the land extended round by the south to E.S.E. till it was 
 lost in the horizon ; and the country appeared with many hills 
 and valleys. We stood in-shore with a light breeze at east till 
 sunset, when we were between two and three leagues off. Two 
 small islets lay without this last direction, distant from us four 
 or five miles ; some others lay between us and the shore, and to 
 the east, where they seemed to be connected by reefs, in which 
 appeared some openings from space to space. The country was 
 mountainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balade. 
 On one of the western small isles was an elevation like a tower ; 
 and over a low neck of land within the isle were seen many 
 other elevations resembling the masts of a fleet of ships. 
 
 On the 25th, about ten o'clock A.M., having got a fair breeze 
 at E.S.E., we stood to S.S.W., in hopes of getting round the Fore- 
 land ; but, as we drew near, we perceived more low isles beyond 
 the one already mentioned, which at last appeared to be connected 
 by breakers, extending towards the Foreland, and seeming to join 
 the shore. We stood on till half-past three o'clock, when we 
 saw, from the deck, rocks just peeping above the surface of the 
 sea, on the shoal above mentioned. It was now time to alter the 
 course, as the day was too far spent to look for a passage near 
 the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during 
 the night. We therefore stood to the south, to look for a 
 passage without the small isles. 
 
 We gained nothing by this but the prospect of a sea strewed 
 with shoals, which we could not clear but by returning in the 
 track by which we came. We tacked nearly in the same place 
 
28o Cook's Voyages. 
 
 where we liad tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom of 
 fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of 
 breakers to leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to 
 spend the night in making short boards over that space we had, 
 in some measure, made ourselves acquainted with in the day. 
 And thus it was spent ; but under the terrible apprehension, 
 every moment, of falling on some of the many dangers which 
 surrounded us. 
 
 Daylight showed that our fears were not ill-founded, and 
 that we had been in the most imminent danger, having had 
 breakers continually under our lee, and at a very little distance 
 from us. We owed our safety to the interposition of Providence, 
 a good look-out, and the very brisk manner in which the ship 
 was managed ; for, as we were standing to the north, the people 
 on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee- 
 bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship. I was now 
 almost tired of a coast which I could no longer explore but at 
 the risk of losing the ship and ruining the whole voyage. I 
 was, however, determined not to leave it till I knew what trees 
 those were which had been the subject of our speculation ; 
 especially as they appeared to be of a sort useful to shipping, 
 and had not been seen anywhere but in the southern part of this 
 land. These we found to be a kind of spruce pine, very proper 
 for spars, of which we were in want. After making this dis- 
 covery, I landed again with two boats, accompanied by several 
 of the officers and men, having with us the carpenter and some 
 of his crew, to cut down such trees as were wanting. To this 
 island I gave the name of 
 
 The Isle of Pines. 
 
Second Voyage. 281 
 
 The purpose for whicli I ancliored under this isle being 
 answered, I was now to consider what was next to be done. We 
 had, from the topmast head, taken a view of the sea around us, 
 and observed the whole, to the west, to be strewed with small 
 islets, sandbanks, and breakers, to the utmost extent of our 
 horizon. They seemed, indeed, not to be all connected, and to 
 be divided by winding channels. But when I considered that 
 the extent of this S.W. coast was already pretty well determined, 
 the great risk attending a more accurate survey, and the time it 
 would require to accomplish it, on account of the many dangers 
 we should have to encounter, I determined not to hazard the 
 ship down to leeward, where we might be so hemmed in as to 
 find it difficult to return, and by that means lose the proper 
 season for getting to the south. 
 
 At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 3d, the wind veered 
 to S-W., and blew a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. 
 I now gave over all thought of returning to the land we had left. 
 Indeed, when I considered the vast ocean we had to explore to 
 the south ; the state and condition of the ship, already in want of 
 some necessary stores ; that summer was approaching fast ; and 
 that any considerable accident might detain us in this sea 
 another year ; I did not think it advisable to attempt to regain 
 the land. 
 
 Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, 
 to leave a coast I had discovered, before it was fully explored. 
 I called it 
 
 New Caledonia, 
 
 and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island 
 in the South Pacific Ocean. 
 
 We continued to stretch to W.S.W. till the 10th, when, at 
 
282 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 daybreak, we discovered land bearing S.W., which on a nearer 
 approach we found to be an island of good height, and five 
 leagues in circuit. I named it 
 
 Norfolk Isle, 
 
 in honour of the noble family of Howard. A party of us 
 embarked in two boats, and landed on the island, without any 
 difficulty, behind some large rocks which lined part of the coast on 
 the N.E. side. We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly 
 the first that ever set foot on it. We observed many trees and 
 plants common at ITew Zealand ; and in particular, the flax-plant, 
 which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that 
 country : but the chief produce is a sort of spruce pine, which 
 grows in great abundance, and to a large size, many of the trees 
 being as thick, breast-high, as two men could fathom, and 
 exceedingly straight and tall. This pine is of a sort between 
 that which grows in New Zealand and that in New Caledonia ; 
 the foliage differing something from both ; and the wood not so 
 heavy as the former, nor so light and close-grained as the latter. 
 It is a good deal like the Quebec pine. 
 
 After leaving Norfolk Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my 
 intention being to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh 
 my crew, and put my ship in a condition to encounter the 
 southern latitudes. 
 
 We hauled round Point Jackson, through a sea which looked 
 terrible, occasioned by a rapid tide and a high wind — but as we 
 knew the coast, it did not alarm us — and anchored before Ship 
 Cove ; the strong flurries from off the land not permitting us to 
 get in. 
 
 I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean ; and flatter 
 
Second Voyage. 
 
 28. 
 
 myself that no one will think that I have left it unexplored ; or 
 that more could have been done, in one voyage, towards obtaining 
 that end, than has been done in this. 
 
 Specimens of New Zealand War Gluts, 
 
 Providential Supply of Geese at Cheistmas Sound. 
 
 In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, we ob- 
 served the shags (crested cormorant) to breed in vast numbers in 
 the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old ones we shot, but could 
 not come at the young ones, which are by far the best eating. 
 On the east side of the island we saw some geese ; and having 
 with difficulty landed, we kiUed three, which at this time were a 
 valuable acquisition. 
 
 In the evening we got on board, when Mr. Pickersgill, who 
 had just arrived before, informed me that the land opposite to 
 our station was an island, which he had been round ; that, on 
 
•284 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 another, more to the north, he found many terns' eggs, and that 
 without the great island, between it and the east head, lay a cove 
 in which were many geese ; one only of which he got, besides 
 some young goslings. This information of Mr. Pickersgill induced 
 me to make up two shooting parties next day ; Mr. Pickersgill 
 and his associates going in the cutter, and myself and the 
 botanists in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill went by the N.E. 
 side of the large island, which obtained the name of Goose Is- 
 land ; and I went by the S.W. side. As soon as we got under 
 the island, we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, without 
 staying to spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, 
 and presently found sport enough ; for in the south of the island 
 were abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting 
 season, and most of them were on shore for that purpose, and 
 could not fly. There being a great surf, we found much difi&culty 
 in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when we were 
 landed ; so that hundreds of the geese escaped us — some into the 
 sea, and others up into the island. We, however, by one means 
 or other, got sixty-two ; with which we returned on board, all 
 heartily tired ; but the acquisition we had made overbalanced 
 every other consideration, and we sat down with a good appetite 
 to supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. 
 Pickersgill and his associates had got on board some time before 
 us, with fourteen geese ; so that I was able to make distribution 
 to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of 
 the approaching festival ; for, had not Providence thus singularly 
 provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beef 
 and pork. 
 
 I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, 
 had been alongside the ship, and some on board. Little address 
 
Second Voyage, 285 
 
 was required to persuade them to either ; for they seemed to be 
 well enough acquainted with Europeans, and had amongst them 
 some of their knives. The next morning, the 25th, they made 
 us another visit. I found them to be of the same nation I had 
 formerly seen in Success Bay ; and the same which M. de 
 Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras, a word 
 which these had on every occasion in their mouths. They are 
 a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race : I saw not a tall 
 person amongst them. I know not if they resemble the Esqui- 
 maux in their love of train oil ; but they, and everything they 
 had, smelt most intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, 
 but did not observe them so fond of it as I had been told. 
 They were much better pleased when I gave them some medals, 
 knives, etc. 
 
 They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of 
 our Christmas cheer. Indeed, I believe no one invited them, 
 and for good reasons ; for their dirty persons, and the stench 
 they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of 
 any European ; and that would have been a real disappointment, 
 as we had not experienced such fare for some time.* Eoast and 
 boiled geese, goose-pie, etc., was a treat little known to us ; and 
 we had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article 
 of our provision that was mended by keeping. So that our 
 friends in England did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more 
 cheerfully than we did. 
 
 The festival which we celebrated at this place occasioned my 
 giving it the name of Christmas Sound. 
 
 * The natives, to this day, are in the same degraded state. A full and in- 
 teresting account of them will he found in Parker Snow's Voyage to the South 
 Seas, in the ** Allen Gardener" yacht. 
 
286 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 From Christmas Sound, I proceeded round Cape Horn to the 
 Cape of Good Hope, whence I sailed for England, having pre- 
 viously, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers 
 and petty officers the log-books and journals they had kept ; 
 which were delivered to me accordingly, and sealed up for the 
 inspection of the Admiralty.* I also enjoined them, and the 
 
 * Notwithstanding tliis injunction, so great was the sensation caused by the 
 voyage, that the publishers of the day were as anxious to obtain the account of 
 it, as recently in the case of M'Clintock's voyage, when his journal was as eagerly 
 sought for by all our leading publishers — ^the prize falling into the hands of Mr. 
 Murray. The following correspondence is somewhat amusing : — 
 
 " MxU End, 18th September 1775. 
 
 " Sir — Last Saturday morning I examined Mr. Anderson, the gunner, about 
 the publication of my late voyage, said to be in the press, and told him that he was 
 suspected of being the author. He affirmed that he had no knowledge or hand in 
 it, and would use his endeavours to find out the author, and yesterday made me 
 the enclosed report. 
 
 *' To-day Marra called upon me, and confirmed what is therein set forth ; and 
 farther added, that Bordel my coxswain, and Eeardon the boatswain's mate, each 
 kept a journal, which they had offered to the booksellers, but they were so badly 
 written that no one could read them. I have no reason to suspect this story, but 
 will, however, call upon the printer, and endeavour to get a sight of the manu- 
 script, as I know most of their writings. This Marra was one of the gunner's 
 mates, the same as wanted to remain at Otaheite. If this is the only account of 
 the voyage that is printing, I do not think it worth regarding. I have taken some 
 measures to find out if there are any more, and such information as I may get 
 shall be communicated to you by. Sir, your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 /* Philip StephmSy Esq., Admiralty. (Signed) James Cook." 
 
 (Enclosure.) 
 "Sir — According to your direction, I overhauled every bookseller's shop in 
 St. Paul's, till at last I came to Mr. Francis Newbury's. I fairly caught his 
 shopman, who answered me (when I demanded the * Resolution's' Voyage), that 
 they had not time to print it yet ; I then asked him if it was the Captain's Journal 
 they had ; on which he looked at me, and said, they had no journal at all yet, but 
 stood as fair a chance to publish the voyage as others. By this time he under- 
 
Second Voyage, 287 
 
 whole crew, not to divulge where we had been, till they had 
 their Lordships' permission so to do. 
 
 On the 29th July 1775, we made the land near Plymouth. 
 
 stood I was pumping of him, so went and brought me one of the shop bills, and 
 bid me good day ; telling me that before the voyage was published it would be 
 advertised. I then drove to Marra and Peckover's lodging ; found the former at 
 home. I told him I had a message from you. Sir, to deliver to Peck over, on 
 which he, Marra, went and found him. I told him that there would be nothing 
 ever done for him or me, unless we could find out who it was that was publishing 
 the voyage. This made all present very sorry ; there was some of your late crew. 
 Some told me Reading wrote a journal, which Enell produced. I deposited five 
 guineas if he would let me shew you the account. He consented. Others told 
 me Rollet kept a journal, interlined in his Bible. I wrote down all this informa- 
 tion for your satisfaction. At last, Marra pulled the paper from before me (wrote 
 at the Angel, Angel Court, in the borough of Southwark). * Send that to Captain 
 Cook ; if he pleases to send a line for or to me, I'll clear every man that is sus- 
 pected ;' adding, * I'm the man that is publishing the voyage ; I want no 
 preferment, and God forbid I should hinder those whose bread depends on the 
 navy ; and, Mr. Anderson, as you have always been my friend, come with me, 
 I'll convince you further that the name of Anderson was never intended to be 
 prefixed to the voyage.' He ordered the coach to drive to Newbury's ; carried me 
 into a back parlour ; informed Mr. Newbury his friend was kept out of bread, 
 therefore he had discovered all. * Now,' says he, * what name is my journal of 
 the voyage to come out in ?' * In no name at all,' says the bookseller. * Then,' 
 says the other, * let it come out in the name of John Marra ! ' At length adding, 
 * If Captain Cook pleases to call here, Mr. Newbury, give him all the satisfaction 
 in your power.' Mr. Newbury said he would ; after which Mr. Newbury invited 
 us both to dinner. 
 
 " I should, Sir, have waited on you last night, but I'm so lame I could not 
 come up. If you will be pleased to let me know when you will send for Marra, 
 I'll wait on you at the same time to confront him ; but there is too many witnesses 
 for him to retract. 
 
 " Honoured Sir, you'U please to observe that this is twice I innocently feU 
 under your displeasure, which God has been pleased to clear me of. — I am. Sir, 
 with the greatest respect, youi most obedient and most humble servant, 
 
 (Signed) "Rt. Anderson," 
 B^corda of the Admiralty^ Wnitehall^ Captain's LetterSy C. vol. 23. 
 
288 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 The next morning we anchored at Spithead ; and the same day 
 I landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London, in company 
 with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges. 
 
 Having been absent from England three years and eighteen 
 days, in which time, and under all changes of climate, I lost but 
 four men, and only one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, 
 at the conclusion of this journal, to enumerate the several causes 
 to which, under the care of Providence, I conceive this uncommon 
 good state of health experienced by my people was owing. 
 Extraordinary attention was paid by the Admiralty in causing 
 such articles to be put on board as, either from experience or 
 suggestion, it was judged would tend to preserve the health of 
 the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the reader's time in 
 mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were found 
 the most useful. We were furnished with a quantity of malt, 
 of which was made ^weet Wort. To such of the men as showed 
 the least symptoms of the scurvy, and also to such as were thought 
 to be threatened with that disorder, this was given from one to 
 two or three pints a day each man ; or in such proportion as the 
 surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted to three 
 quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea 
 medicines yet discovered ; and, if used in time, will, with proper 
 attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy 
 from making any great progress for a -considerable while. But 
 I am not altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea. 
 
 ^ouT Krout, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a 
 wholesome vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antiscor- 
 butic ; and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was served 
 to each man when at sea, twice a week or oftener, as was thought 
 necessary. PortaUe Broth was another great article, of which we 
 
Second Voyage. 289 
 
 had a large supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other 
 proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their 
 pease, three days in the week ; and when we were in places 
 where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them, and 
 wheat or oatmeal every morning for breakfast ; and also with 
 pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several 
 nourishing and wholesome messes,, and was the means of making 
 the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would 
 otherwise have done. Rob of Lemon and Orange is an antiscor- 
 butic we were not without. The surgeon made use of it in many 
 cases, with great success. Amongst the articles of victualling 
 we were supplied with Sugar in the room of Oil, and with Wheat 
 for a part of Oatmeal; and were certainly gainers by the 
 exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antiscorbutic ; 
 whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied with), I am of 
 opinion, has the contrary effect. 
 
 But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as 
 provisions or medicines, wiH generally prove unsuccessful, unless 
 supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years' 
 experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh 
 Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent ofiBcers, 
 enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed. The 
 crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary- 
 occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the 
 weather as if they had been at watch and watch ; and had 
 generally dry clothes to shift themselves, when they happened 
 to get wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little * 
 wet weather as possible. Proper methods were used to keep 
 their persons, hammocks, bedding, clothes, etc., constantly clean 
 and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry 
 
290 CooHs Voyages, 
 
 betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with fires ; 
 and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gun- 
 powder mixed with vinegar or water. I had also frequently a 
 fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which was of 
 great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To 
 this and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, 
 too great attention cannot be paid ; the least neglect occasions a 
 putrid and disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will 
 remove. Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that 
 they were kept constantly clean. The fat which boiled out of 
 the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to be given to the people ; 
 being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. 
 
 I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even 
 though we did not want it. Because I look upon fresh water 
 from the shore to be more wholesome than that which has been 
 kept some time on board a ship. Of this essential article, we 
 were never at an allowance, but had always plenty for every 
 necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, 
 nor would they wish to meet with, such advantages in this respect, 
 as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into very 
 high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers inseparable from 
 that situation were, in some degree, compensated by the singular 
 felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh 
 water from an ocean strewed with ice. We came to few places 
 where either the art of man or the bounty of nature had not 
 provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in the animal 
 or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of 
 any kind could be met with, by every means in my power ; and 
 to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example 
 and authority ; but the benefits arising from refreshments of any 
 
Second Voyage. 291 
 
 kind soon became so obvious, that I had little occasion to 
 recommend the one or to exert the other. 
 
 Conclusion. 
 
 It does not become me to say how far the principal objects 
 of our voyage have been obtained. Though it has not abounded 
 with remarkable events, nor been diversified by sudden transitions 
 of fortune ; though my relation of it has been more employed in 
 tracing our course by sea, than in recording our operations on 
 shore ; this, perhaps, is a circumstance from which the curious 
 reader may infer, that the purposes for which we were sent into 
 the southern hemisphere were diligently and effectually pursued. 
 Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better 
 enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hope our not having found 
 it, after all our persevering searches, will leave less room for 
 future speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be ex- 
 plored. But whatever may be the public judgment about other 
 matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any 
 merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this 
 account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that 
 our having discovered the possibility of preserving health amongst 
 a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such 
 varieties of climate and amidst such continued hardships and 
 fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of 
 every benevolent person, when the disputes about a southern 
 continent shall have ceased to engage the attention and to divide 
 the judgment of philosophers. 
 
Third Voyage 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN, AND FOR EXPLORING THE NORTHERN 
 HEMISPHERE. 
 
 Is H.M. Ships "Resolution," 462 tons, and "Discovery," 800 tons, a 
 
 THE YEABS 1776-7-8-9-80. 
 
 In the preceding voyage, the question respecting the existence 
 of a southern continent was for the time set at rest, but the 
 practicability of a northern passage to the Pacific Ocean was 
 still an object of so vast importance to England as to excite an 
 earnest desire for the most diligent investigation. 
 
 It had long been a favourite scheme with the most celebrated 
 navigators, and with the learned men of the day, to discover a 
 shorter and more commodious course to the Oriental regions than 
 by the Cape of Good Hope. This had been attempted in various 
 directions for two centuries and upwards, but the completion of 
 this favourite object was as distant as ever, and the problem of 
 a junction of the two great oceans, the Atlantic and Pacific, by 
 the northern shores of America, was left to be solved in our own 
 time by the several voyages and discoveries of Sir Edward Parry, 
 Eoss, Sir John Franklin, Collinson, M'Clure, Sir Leopold 
 M'Clintock, Dease, Simpson, Back, Eichardson, and Eae — 
 Franklin being now proved, beyond aU doubt, to be the first dis- 
 coverer of a north-west passage. 
 
294 CooHs Voyages, 
 
 Tor the conduct of such an enterprise, it was evident that 
 great skill, perseverance, and abilities, were required ; and though, 
 by the universal voice of mankind, Captain Cook was the best 
 qualified, no one could venture to solicit him on the subject. 
 The services he had already rendered to his country, the labours 
 he had sustained, and the dangers he had encountered, were so 
 many and so various, that it was deemed unreasonable to urge 
 him to engage in fresh perils. 
 
 As an honourable testimony, however, to his merit and 
 knowledge, it was resolved to ask his advice respecting the most 
 proper person to be intrusted with the conduct of this voyage ; 
 and to determine this poiut, some of the most distinguished naval 
 characters were invited to meet Captain Cook at the house of 
 Lord Sandwich, who then presided over the Board of Admiralty. 
 
 While the conversation became animated on the subject. 
 Cook's mind was fired with the magnitude of the design, and the 
 consequences likely to result from it. He suddenly started up, 
 under the impression of a noble enthusiasm, and offered his best 
 services to direct the important objects in view. !N"o proposal 
 could have been more gratefuL Captain Cook was immediately 
 invested with the command.* 
 
 * The following letter, dated at the Admiralty, 10th Feb. 1776, formally offers 
 his services : — 
 
 Admiralty Office, \^th Febnuiry 1776. 
 Sir, — Having understood that their Lordships have ordered two ships to be 
 fitted out for the purpose of making further discoveries in the Pacific Ocean, I take 
 the liberty, as their Lordships, when they were pleased to appoint me a captain in 
 Greenwich Hospital, were at the same time pleased also to say, it should not be 
 in prejudice to any further ofier which I might make of my service, to submit 
 myself to their directions, if they think fit to appoint me to the command on 
 the said intended voyage ; relying, if they condescend to accept this offer, they 
 
Third Voyage. 295 
 
 This preliminary step settled, tlie exact plan of the under- 
 taking was next taken into serious consideration. All former 
 navigators round the globe had returned by the Cape of Good 
 Hope ; but to Captain Cook was assigned the arduous task of 
 attempting the same thing by reaching the high northern lati- 
 tudes between Asia and America ; and it appears that this plan 
 was adopted in consequence of his own suggestions. His 
 instructions were, to proceed to the Pacific Ocean, and through 
 that cluster of islands he had before visited within the southern 
 tropic ; and thence, if practicable, to make his way into the 
 Atlantic, along the northern coast of America, in whatever 
 latitude it might be found to lie ; for nothing whatever was 
 known at that time respecting it. 
 
 To give every stimulus to the prosecution of this great design, 
 motives of interest were superadded to the obligations of duty. 
 An Act of Parliament, which passed in 1745, offering a reward of 
 £20,000 to such as should discover a passage through Hudson's 
 Bay, was enlarged and explained ; and it was now enacted, that 
 if any ship belonging to his Majesty, or his subjects, should find 
 and sail through any passage by sea, between the Atlantic and 
 Pacific Oceans, in any direction or parallel of the northern 
 hemisphere, to the northward of the 52d deg. of northern latitude, 
 the sum of £20,000 was to reward such discovery. 
 
 The vessels destined for this service were the "Eesolution" and 
 the "Discovery." The command of the former was given to 
 
 will on my return, either restore me to my appointment in the Hospital, or 
 procure for me such other mark of the royal favour as their Lordships, upon the re- 
 view of my past services, shall think me deserving of. I am, sir, your most humble 
 servant, James Cook. 
 
 To Qeorge Jackson, Esq. 
 
 —■Admiralty Lecords. 
 
296 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 Captain Cook, and that of the latter to Captain Clerke, who had 
 been second lieutenant on the former voyage. Nearly the same 
 complement of men and officers was assigned to each as before. 
 The following is the list of the principal officers appointed to the 
 two ships : — 
 
 "Eesolution.*' 
 
 John Gore, James ELing, John Williamson, lieutenants. 
 
 WilKam Bligh, master. 
 
 William Anderson, surgeon. 
 
 Molesworth Philips, lieutenant, royal marines. 
 
 " Discovery." 
 
 James Burney, John Eickman, lieutenants. 
 Thomas Edgar, master. 
 John Law, surgeon. 
 
 Several months were spent in the equipment and preparation 
 of the ships, that the health of the seamen, and the success of the 
 expedition, might have every advantage which a liberal and 
 enlightened attention could bestow. In order that the inhabi- 
 tants of Otaheite, and other islands in the South Seas where the 
 English had been treated with so much hospitality, might be 
 benefited by the voyage, his Majesty was graciously pleased to 
 order some of the most useful European cattle to be put on board 
 for those countries. 
 
 Besides these. Captain Cook was furnished with a quantity 
 of garden seeds, and the Board of Admiralty added such articles 
 of commerce as were most likely to promote a friendly inter- 
 
Third Voyage. 297 
 
 course with the natives and to induce them to open traffic with 
 the English. 
 
 Omai, who has been mentioned in the preceding voyage, was 
 likewise to be carried back to his native country. 
 
 This voyage, like the previous, is written by Captain Cook, 
 till his lamented death, and afterwards by Captain King, who 
 published the whole. Some of the general descriptions were 
 furnished by Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the "Eesolution ;" a 
 man of distinguished abilities, and to whose talents Captain 
 Cook acknowledged himself much indebted for many interesting 
 parts of his voyage. As the important part of this voyage com- 
 menced with Cook's departure for the North Seas, we shall relate 
 only cursorily what occurred before that. 
 
 Contrary winds, and other circumstances, prevented the ships 
 from clearing the Channel till the 14th of July 1776. On 
 board both vessels were one hundred and ninety-two persons, 
 officers included. On the 1st of August 1776, they arrived off 
 Teneriffe, crossed the Equator on 1st September, and anchored in 
 Table Bay on the 18th of October. Here a violent tempest 
 occurred, the effects of which were felt both on sea and land. It 
 lasted three days, and the *' Eesolution'' was the only ship in the 
 bay that rode out the storm without dragging her anchors. On 
 shore the tents and observatory were destroyed, and the astrono- 
 mical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. The 
 "Discovery," which had been some time later in sailing from 
 England, was driven off the coast, and did not arrive till the 10th 
 of November. 
 
 While at this place, a disaster happened which threatened the 
 loss of most of the live stock. The bull and two cows had been 
 put ashore to graze among other cattle ; but Captain Cook had 
 
298 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 been advised to keep the sheep, sixteen in number, near the tents, 
 where they were penned in every night. But some dogs having 
 got in amongst them in the night-time, killed four, and dispersed 
 the rest. Six of them were recovered the next day, but the two 
 rams and -two of the finest ewes in the flock were missing. Baron 
 Plettenberg, the governor, was applied to, but all his endeavours 
 were unsuccessful, until some of the meanest and lowest of the 
 people were employed, fellows who for a ducatoon would have cut 
 their master's throat, burned the house over his head, and buried 
 him and his whole family in ashes. After all, two of the finest 
 ewes in the flock were missiug, and never could be recovered. 
 In order to repair this loss, and to make an addition to the 
 original stock, there were purchased two young bulls, two entire 
 horses, two mares, two heifers, two rams, several ewes and goats, 
 with some rabbits and poultry. Having finished all business, 
 sail was set on the 30th of November, though it was not till the 
 3d of December that the land was cleared. 
 
 Having explored some desolate islands in the southern seas, 
 Captain Cook set sail for New Zealand. During this part of the 
 voyage, so thick a fog prevailed, that, according to the authors 
 of Captain Cook's life, " they sailed three hundred leagues in the 
 dark.'* The first land afterwards reached was New Holland, 
 where they remained till the 30th of January 1777, when they 
 set sail for New Zealand, and on the 12th of February anchored in 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here the people were shy and timorous, 
 on account of their having formerly destroyed ten of Captain 
 Furneaux's people who had been sent ashore to gather vegetables. 
 The cause of the quarrel could not be known, as none of the party 
 were left alive to tell the news. Lieutenant Burney, who went 
 ashore in quest of them, found only some fragments of their 
 
Third Voyage. 299 
 
 bodies ; from which it appeared that they had "been killed and 
 devoured by the savages. It was not the intention of Captain 
 Cook, at this distance of time, to resent the injury ; he even re- 
 fused to put to death a chief named Kahoora, who, as he was 
 informed by the natives themselves, had killed Mr. Rowe, the 
 commander of the party. He was, however, particularly careful 
 that no opportunity should now be given the savages of commit- 
 ting such an action with impunity ; and with this view a boat 
 was never sent on shore without being well armed, and the men 
 under the command of such ofi&cers as could be depended upon. 
 The New Zealanders were no sooner assured of Captain Cook's 
 pacific disposition, than they threw aside their fears and sus- 
 picions, and entered into a commercial intercourse with the 
 people. It would have been the less excusable in Captain Cook 
 to have revenged at this time the massacre of Mr. Eowe's party, 
 as he was assured that the quarrel originated from some petty 
 thefts of the savages, which were too hastily resented on the 
 part of the British ; and that, had it not been for this, no mis- 
 chief would have happened. 
 
 On the 25th of February New Zealand was left, and at the 
 request of Omai, two boys were taken into the ship, the eldest 
 about eighteen, and the youngest about ten. So much time had 
 now been spent in sailing up and down in the Pacific Ocean, 
 where several new islands were discovered, that Captain Cook 
 judged it impossible to accomplish anything this year in the 
 high northern latitudes ; for which reason he determined to bear 
 away for the Friendly Islands, in order to supply himself with 
 those necessaries which he had found it impossible to procure at 
 any of the islands which he had just discovered. In his run 
 thither, several new islands were visited; and in prosecuting 
 
300 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 these discoveries another narrow escape was made from ship- 
 wreck. The danger at this time arose from a low sandy- 
 island which the "Eesolution" was very near running upon, 
 and from which she was only saved by the circumstance 
 of all the men having been accidentally called upon deck 
 to put the vessel about. Soon after this both ships struck 
 upon some sunk coral rocks, but happily got off without 
 material damage. 
 
 After a stay of between two and three months, Captain Cook 
 took leave of the Friendly Islands on the 13th of July 1777, and 
 on the 12th of August reached Otaheite, where he introduced 
 Omai to his countrymen. Here the captain found the people of 
 Otaheite ready to engage in a war with those of Eimeo ; but 
 though strongly solicited by the former to assist them in an 
 expedition against their enemies, he refused to take any concern 
 in the affair, alleging, by way of excuse, that the people of Eimeo 
 had never offended him. This seemed to satisfy most of the 
 chiefs ; but one, named Towha, was so much displeased that 
 Captain Cook could never regain his favour. 
 
 From Otaheite Captain Cook next proceeded to Eimeo, where, 
 on account of some thefts committed by the natives, he was 
 obliged to commence hostilities, by burning a number of their 
 war canoes, and even some houses. These transactions gave him 
 much concern ; and the more that he had been so much solicited 
 to make war on these people by his friends at Otaheite, to whose 
 entreaties he had refused to listen. From Eimeo he proceeded 
 to Huaheine, where he saw Omai finally settled, and left with 
 him the two New Zealand youths already mentioned. The 
 youngest of these was so much attached to the English that it 
 was necessary to carry him out of the ship and put him ashore 
 
Third Voyage. 301 
 
 by force. During Ms stay on this island, it was found necessary 
 to punish a thief with greater severity than had ever been done 
 before, by causing his head and beard to be shaved, and his ears 
 cut off. Some other disagreeable transactions took place, particu- 
 larly the desertion of two of the crew, who were not recovered 
 without the greatest difficulty. In the course of the exertions that 
 were made for their recovery, it was found necessary to detain the 
 son, daughter, and son-in-law of the chief of an island named Otaha. 
 This had almost produced very serious consequences, the natives 
 having formed a plot for carrying off Captain Cook himself, as 
 well as Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore. As to the commander, 
 they were disappointed by his own caution and vigilance ; but 
 Clerke and Gore were in particular danger; and it was only 
 owing to the circumstance of one of them having a pistol in his 
 hand as they walked together on shore, that they were not seized. 
 
CHAPTER VIL 
 
 Departure for the North Seas, February 1778. 
 
 After the "Discovery" had joined us, we stood away to the 
 northward. Notwithstanding our advanced latitude, and its 
 being the winter season, we had only begun, for a few days past, 
 to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings. This 
 is a sign of the equal and lasting influence of the sun's heat, at 
 all seasons, to 30° on each side the line. The disproportion is 
 known to become very great after that. This must be attributed, 
 almost entirely, to the direction of the rays of the sun, indepen- 
 dent of the bare distance, which is by no means equal to the 
 effect. We had on the 25th Feburary reached the latitude of 42° 
 30', and the longitude of 219° ; and then we began to meet with 
 the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson's voyage, 
 under the name of sea-leek, which the Manilla ships generally 
 fall in with. Now and then a piece of wood also appeared. But 
 if we had not known that the continent of North America was 
 not far distant, we might, from the few signs of the vicinity of 
 land hitherto met with, have concluded that there was none 
 within some thousand leagues of us. We had hardly seen a bird, 
 or any oceanic animal, since we left Sandwich Islands. 
 
 New Albion. 
 
 On the 6th of March at noon, being in the latitude of 44° 10' 
 N., and the longitude of 234j° E., we saw two seals and several 
 
Third Voyage, 303 
 
 whales ; and at daybreak tlie next morning, the long-looked-for 
 coast of New Albion was seen extending from north-east to 
 south-east, distant ten or twelve leagues. The land appeared to 
 be of a moderate height, diversified with hills and valleys, and 
 almost everywhere covered with wood. There was, however, 
 no very striking object on any part of it, except one hill, whose 
 elevated summit was flat. This bore east from us at noon. 
 At the northern extreme the land formed a point, which I 
 called Caipe Foulweather, from the very bad weather that we 
 soon after met with. Our difficulties now began to increase, 
 and it was not until after being unprofitably tossed about 
 for a fortnight that we saw land on the morning of the 22d 
 March 1778. 
 
 At this time we were in the latitude of 47° 5' north, and in the 
 longitude of 235° 10' east, and about four leagues from the land, 
 which extended from north to south-east half east. A small round 
 hill, which had the appearance of being an island, bore north 
 three quarters east, distant six or seven leagues, as I guessed : it 
 appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but just to be seen 
 from the deck. Between this island or rock, and the northern 
 extreme of the land, there appeared to be a small opening, which 
 flattered us with the hopes of finding a harbour. These hopes 
 lessened as we drew nearer ; and, at last, we had some reason 
 to think that the opening was closed by low land. On this 
 account I called the point of land to the north of it Cape Flattery. 
 There is a round hill of a moderate height over it ; and all the 
 land upon this part of the coast is of a moderate and pretty equal 
 height, well covered with wood, and had a very pleasant and fertile 
 appearance. It is in this very latitude where we now were, that 
 geographers have placed the pretended strait of Juan de Fuca. 
 
304 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 We saw nothing like it ; nor is there the least probabilitjf that 
 ever any such thing existed. 
 
 Vancouver's Island, March 1778. 
 
 As we drew near the coast, we perceived the appearance of 
 two inlets ; one in the north-west, and the other in the north- 
 east corner of the bay. As I conld not fetch the former, I bore 
 up to the latter, and passed some breakers, or sunken rocks, that 
 lay a league or more from the shore. 
 
 We no sooner drew near the inlet, than we found the coast 
 to be inhabited ; and three canoes came off to the ship. In one 
 of these were two men, in another six, and in the third ten. 
 Having come pretty near us, a person in one of the two last stood 
 up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we guessed 
 by his gestures. At the same time, he kept strewing handfuls 
 of feathers towards us, and some of his companions threw hand- 
 fuls of red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who 
 played the orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each 
 hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it. After 
 tiring himself with his repeated exhortations, of which we did 
 not understand a word, he was quiet ; and then others took it 
 by turns to say something, though they acted their part neither 
 so long, nor with so much vehemence as the other. We observed 
 that two or three had their hair quite strewed over with small 
 white feathers, and others had large ones stuck into different 
 parts of the head. After the tumultuous noise had ceased, they 
 lay at a little distance from the ship, and conversed with each 
 other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem to show the 
 least surprise or distrust. Some of them now and then got up, 
 and said something after the manner of their first harangues ; 
 
Thii'd Voyage. 305 
 
 and one sang a very agreeable air with a degree of softness and 
 melody which we could not have expected ; the word Jiaela being 
 often repeated as the burden of the song. 
 
 Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not 
 be suspected of any hostile intention, we could not prevail upon 
 any of them to come on board. They showed great readiness, 
 however, to part with anything they had, and took from us what- 
 ever we offered them in exchange ; but were more desirous of 
 iron than of any other of our articles of commerce, appearing to 
 be perfectly acquainted with the use of that metaL Many of the 
 canoes followed us to our anchoring-place ; and a group of about 
 ten or a dozen of them remained alongside the "Eesolution" most 
 part of the night. These circumstances gave us a reasonable 
 ground of hope that we should find this a comfortable station to 
 supply all our wants, and to make us forget the hardships and 
 delays experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds 
 and boisterous weather almost ever since our arrival upon the 
 coast of America. 
 
 After coming to anchor, I lost no time in finding a com- 
 modious harbour, where we stationed ourselves during our 
 continuance in the sound. 
 
 A great many canoes, fiUed with the natives, were about the 
 ships all day ; and a trade commenced betwixt us and them, which 
 was carried on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The 
 articles which they offered to sale were skins of various animals, 
 such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, polecats, martins ; and, 
 in particular, of the sea otters, which are found at the islands 
 east of Kamtschatka. But the most extraordinary of all the 
 articles which they brought for sale were human skulls, and hands 
 not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made our people 
 
3o6 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 plainly understand they had eaten ; and, indeed, some of them 
 had evident marks that they had been upon the fire. We had 
 but too much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that the 
 horrid practice of feeding on their enemies is as prevalent here 
 as we had found it to be at New Zealand and other South Sea 
 Islands. For the various articles which they brought, they took 
 in exchange knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking- 
 glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Glass beads they were 
 not fond of ; and cloth of every sort they rejected. 
 
 A considerable number of the natives visited us daily ; and 
 every now and then we saw new faces. On their first coming, 
 they generally went through a singular mode of introducing 
 themselves. They would paddle with all their strength quite 
 round both ships, a chief, or other principal person in the canoe, 
 standing up with a spear, or some other weapon, in his hand, and 
 speaking, or rather hallooing all the time. Sometimes the orator 
 of the canoe would have his face covered with a mask, represent- 
 ing either a human visage, or that of some animal ; and, instead 
 of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand.* After making 
 this circuit round the ships, they would come alongside, and 
 begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, indeed, 
 they would first give us a song, in which all in the canoe joined 
 with a very pleasing harmony. During these visits they gave 
 us no other trouble than to guard against their thievish tricks. 
 
 After a fortnight's bad weather, having now finished most of 
 our heavy work, in refitting the rigging, I set out to take a view 
 of the Sound. I first went to the west point, where I found a 
 large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which were 
 from nine to four fathoms' water, over a bottom of fine sand. 
 
 * The medicine man. 
 
Third Voyage, 307 
 
 The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most of 
 whom I was well known, received me very courteously, every 
 one pressing me to go into his house, or rather his apartment ; 
 for several families live under the same roof. I did not decline 
 the invitation ; and my hospitable friends whom I visited spread 
 a mat for me to sit upon, and showed me every other mark of 
 civility. In most of the houses there were women at work, 
 making dresses from the plant or bark before mentioned, which 
 they executed exactly in the same manner that the Kew 
 Zealanders manufacture their cloth. 
 
 Curing Sardines. 
 
 Others were occupied in opening sardines. I had seen a large 
 quantity of them brought on shore from canoes, and divided by 
 measure amongst several people, who carried them up to their 
 houses, where the operation of curing them by smoke-drying is 
 performed. They hang them on small rods, at first about a foot 
 from the fire ; afterwards they remove them higher and higher, 
 to make room for others, till the rods on which the fish hang 
 reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried 
 they are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover 
 with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted ; and they are not a 
 disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are also 
 cured in the same manner by them ; though they sometimes dry 
 these in the open air, without fire. 
 
 From this village I proceeded up the west side of the Sound. 
 For about three miles I found the shore covered with small islands, 
 which are so situated as to form several convenient harbours, 
 having various depths of water, from thirty to seven fathoms, 
 with a good bottom. Two leagues within the Sound, on this 
 
3o8 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 west side, there runs in an arm in the direction of north north- 
 west ; and two miles farther is another nearly in the same direc- 
 tion, with a pretty large island before it. I had no time to 
 examine either of these arms ; but have reason to believe that 
 they do not extend far inland, as the water was no more than 
 brackish at their entrances. A mile above the second arm I 
 found the remains of a village. The logs or framings of the 
 houses were standing ; but the boards that had composed their 
 sides and roofs did not exist. Before this village were some 
 large fishing weirs ; but I saw nobody attending them. These 
 weirs were composed of pieces of wicker-work made of small rods, 
 some closer than others, according to the size of the fish intended 
 to be caught in them. These pieces of wicker-work (some of 
 whose superficies are at least twenty feet by twelve) are fixed up 
 edgewise in shallow water, by strong poles or pickets that stand 
 firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain of a 
 few hours' extent, covered with the largest pine-trees that I ever 
 saw. This was the more remarkable, as the elevated ground in 
 most other parts of this west side of the Sound was rather naked. 
 From this place I crossed over to the other, or east side of 
 the Sound, passing an arm of it that runs in north north-east, to 
 appearance not far. I now found what I had before conjectured, 
 that the land under which the ships lay was an island ; and that 
 there were many smaller ones lying scattered in the Sound on the 
 west side of it. Opposite the noith end of our large island, upon 
 the mainland, I observed a village, and there I landed. The 
 inhabitants of it were not so polite as those of the other I had 
 just visited. But this cold reception seemed, in a great measure, 
 if not entirely, owing to one surly chief, who would not let me 
 enter their houses, following me wherever I went ; and several 
 
Third Voyage, 309 
 
 times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience that I should 
 be gone. I attempted in vain to soothe him by presents, but 
 though he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. 
 Some of the young women, better pleased with us than their 
 inhospitable chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best 
 apparel, and assembling in a body welcomed us to their village, 
 by joining in a song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. 
 The day being now far spent, I proceeded for the ships round the 
 north end of the large island ; meeting in my way with several 
 canoes laden with sardines, which had been just caught some- 
 where in the east corner of the Sound. When I got on board I 
 was informed, that while I was absent the ships had been visited 
 by some strangers, in two or three large canoes, who by signs 
 made our people understand that they had come from the south- 
 east, beyond the bay. They brought several skins, garments, and 
 other articles, which they bartered. But what was most singular, 
 two silver table-spoons were purchased from them, which, from 
 their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Spanish manufacture. 
 One of these strangers wore them round his neck by way of 
 ornament. These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully 
 supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. 
 
 On my arrival in this inlet I had honoured it with the 
 name of King George's Sound, but I afterward found that it is 
 called Nootka by the natives. The climate, as far as we had 
 any experience of it, is infinitely milder than that on the east 
 coast of America, under the same parallel of latitude. The 
 mercury in the thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower 
 than 42° ; and very often in the day it rose to 60°. No such 
 thing as frost was perceived in any of the low ground ; on the 
 contrary, vegetation had made a considerable progress ; for 1 met 
 
3IO Cook's Voyages. 
 
 with grass that was already above a foot long. The trees which 
 chiefly compose the woods are the Canadian pine, white cypress, 
 Cwpressus thyoides, the wild pine, with two or three other sorts 
 of pine less common. The first two make up almost two-thirds 
 of the whole ; and, at a distance, might be mistaken for the 
 same tree, as they both run up into pointed spire-like tops ; but 
 they are easily distinguished on coming nearer from their colour, 
 the cypress being of a much paler green, or shade, than the 
 other. The trees, in general, grow with great vigour, and are 
 all of a large size. 
 
 The persons of the natives are in general under the common 
 stature, but not slender in proportion, being commonly pretty 
 full or plump, though not muscular. Neither does the soft flesh- 
 iness seem ever to swell into corpulence, and many of the older 
 people are rather spare or lean. The visage of most of them is 
 round and fuU, and sometimes, also, broad, with large prominent 
 cheeks; and above these the face is frequently much depressed, or 
 seems fallen in quite across the temples, the nose also flattening at 
 its base, with pretty wide nostrils, and a rounded point. The fore- 
 head rather low, the eyes small, black, and rather languishing 
 than sparkling, the mouth round with large round thickish lips, 
 the teeth tolerably equal and well set, but not remarkably white. 
 
 The nastiness and stench of their houses are at least equal 
 to the confusion ; for, as they dry their fish within doors, they 
 also gut them there, which, with their bones and fragments 
 thrown down at meals, and the addition of other sorts of filth, 
 lie everywhere in heaps, and are, I believe, never carried away 
 till it becomes troublesome, from their size, to walk over them. 
 In a word, their houses are as filthy as hog-sties, everything in 
 and about them stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. But, amidst 
 
Third Voyage, 3 1 1 
 
 all the filth and confusion that are found in the houses, many of 
 them are decorated with images. These are nothing more than 
 the trunks of very large trees four or ^nq feet high, set up singly 
 or by pairs at the upper end of the apartment, with the front 
 carved into a human face, the arms and hands cut out upon the 
 sides and variously painted ; so that the whole is a truly 
 monstrous figure. The general name of those images is Klumma, 
 and the names of two particular ones which stood abreast of each 
 other, three or four feet asunder in one of the houses, were 
 Natchlwa and Matseeta. 
 
 Their manner of eating is exactly consonant to the nastiness 
 of their houses and persons; for the troughs and platters, in 
 which they put their food, appear never to have been washed 
 from the time they were first made, and the dirty remains of a 
 former meal are only sweeped away by the succeeding one. They 
 also tear everything, solid or tough, to pieces v/ith their hands 
 and teeth ; for though they make use of their knives to cut off 
 the larger portions, they have not, as yet, thought of reducing 
 these to smaller pieces and mouthfuls, by the same means, though 
 obviously more convenient and cleanly. But they seem to have 
 no idea of cleanliness ; for they eat the roots which they dig from 
 the ground without so much as shaking off the soil that adheres 
 to them. We are uncertain if they have any set time for meals ; 
 for we have seen them eat at all hours in their canoes. And 
 yet, from seeing several messes of the porpoise-broth preparing 
 toward noon, when we visited the village, I should suspect that 
 they make a principal meal about that time. 
 
 (It is unnecessary to follow minutely Captain Cook's narrative 
 from this point northwards. Suffice it to say that after leaving 
 Nootka Sound he proceeded northwards by Cross Sound, Hinchr 
 
,"^12 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 inhrooh Islandy Prince William Sound, Cook's Inlet, the island of 
 Conalashka and Cape Newenham, to Cape Prince of Wales in 
 Behring Straits, and other places which still retain the names 
 he gave them.) 
 
 Icy Cape. 
 
 On Monday the 7th August 1778, before noon, we perceived 
 a brightness in the northern horizon like that reflected from ice, 
 commonly called the blink. About an hour after, the sight of a 
 large field of ice left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the 
 brightness of the horizon. At half-past two we tacked close to 
 the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, not being able 
 to stand on any further, for the ice was quite impenetrable, and 
 extended from west to south to east by north, as far as the eye 
 could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses. 
 
 On the 18th, at noon, we were near five leagues farther to 
 the eastward. We were at this time close to the edge of the ice, 
 which was as compact as a wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve 
 feet high at least ; but farther north it appeared much higher. 
 
 We now stood to the southward, and after running six 
 leagues, shoaled the water to seven fathoms, but it soon deepened 
 to nine fathoms. At* this time we saw land extending from 
 south to south-east by east, about three or four miles distant. 
 The eastern extreme forms a point which was much encumbered 
 with ice, for which reason it obtained the name of Icy Cape* 
 The other extreme of the land was lost in the horizon, so that 
 there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of the Ameri- 
 can continent. 
 
 * Icy Cape, Captain Cook's farthest, was passed by Captain Beechey in H.M.S. 
 " Blossom" in 1826, on which occasion the late Mr. Elson and Mr. (now Admiral) 
 
Third Voyage. 313 
 
 Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in 
 shoal water upon a lee shore, and the main body of the ice to 
 windward driving down upon us. I therefore made the signal 
 for the " Discovery" to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. 
 
 Next day we had a good deal of drift ice about us, and the 
 main ice was about two leagues to the north. It was too close 
 and in too large pieces to attempt forcing the ships through it. 
 On the ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses, and as we were 
 in want of fresh provisions the boats from each ship were sent 
 to get some. 
 
 By the time that we had got our sea-horses on board, we 
 were in a manner surrounded with the ice, and had no way left 
 to clear it but by standing to the southward, which was done till 
 three o'clock next morning. At two in the afternoon we fell in 
 with the main ice, along the edge of which we kept, being partly 
 directed by the roaring of the sea-horses, for we had a very thick 
 fog. Thus we continued sailing till near midnight, when we got 
 in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of the sea upon the 
 main ice. 
 
 Next morning, the fog clearing away, we saw the continent 
 of America, extending from south by east to east by south ; and 
 at noon from south-west half south to east ; the nearest part five 
 leagues distant. 
 
 I continued to steer in for it until eight o'clock, in order to 
 
 Smyth readied Point Barrow, 126 miles north-east of Icy Cape, in the "Blossom's" 
 barge. The first vessel that ever rounded the Pointwas the "Nancy Dawson " yacht, 
 — Kobert Shedden, Esq., — in 1849 ; then Sir Robert M'Clure and Captain Collinson, 
 who pushed their ships boldly on to the eastward, along the northern shore of 
 America, opening the way to all future navigators ; neither should we omit the 
 name of Captain Maguire, who passed two winters at Point Barrow in H. M.S. 
 *• Plover," and greatly civilised the natives. 
 
314 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 get a nearer view of it and to look for a harbour, but seeing 
 nothing like one I stood again to the north. 
 
 The ice obliged us to change our course frequently till the 
 27th, when we tacked and stood to the west, and at seven in the 
 evening we were close in with the edge of the ice, which lay 
 east from north-east, and west south-west, as far each way as the 
 eye could reach. Having but little wind I went with the boats 
 to examine the state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose 
 pieces of various extent, and so close together that I could hardly 
 enter the outer edge with a boat ; and it was as impossible for the 
 ships to enter it as if it had been so many rocks. 
 
 A thick fog which came on while I was thus employed 
 with the boats, hastened me aboard rather sooner than I could 
 have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. We had kiUed 
 more, but could not wait to bring them with us. The number of 
 these animals, on all the ice that we had seen, is almost incre- 
 dible.* By this time our people began to relish them. We now 
 stretched to the south-west. 
 
 On the 29th, the weather, which had been hazy, cleared up. 
 This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the Asiatic coast, 
 which in every respect is like the opposite one of America ; that 
 is, low land next the sea with elevated land farther back. It 
 was perfectly destitute of wood and even snow, but was probably 
 covered with a mossy substance that gave it a brownish cast. 
 
 * Captain Sir Robert M'Clure in the "Investigator" fell in with immense herds 
 of walrusses in the same locality. " A gun was at first loaded with grape and 
 canister for the purpose of shooting some of them ; but the order was counter- 
 manded by Captain M'Clure, from the kindly feelings awakened by the affection 
 evinced between the mothers and babes of this brute community.' — Vide Captain 
 Sherard Osborn's Narrative. 
 
Third Voyage, 315 
 
 In the low ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was 
 a lake extending to the south-east farther than we could see. 
 
 Eetukn to the Southern Seas, Septembee 1778. 
 
 The season was now far advanced, and the time when the 
 frost was expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think 
 it consistent with prudence to make any farther attempts to find 
 a passage into the Atlantic this year in any direction, so little 
 was the prospect of succeeding. My attention was now directed 
 toward finding out some place where we might supply ourselves 
 with wood and water ; and the object uppermost in my thoughts 
 was, how I should spend the winter so as to make some improve- 
 ments in geography and navigation, and at the same time be in 
 a condition to return to the north in farther search of a passage 
 the ensuing summer. 
 
 After standing off till we got into eighteen fathoms water, 
 I bore up to the eastward along the coast of Asia. At day- 
 break on the 30th we made sail, and steered such a course as I 
 thought would bring us in with the land ; for the weather was 
 as thick as ever, and it snowed incessantly. At ten we got sight 
 of the coast, bearing south-west, four miles distant. 
 
 The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which 
 are of a considerable height. The land was covered with snow. 
 
 September 2d, we had now fair weather and sunshine ; and 
 as we ranged along the coast at the distance of four miles, we 
 saw several of the inhabitants, and some of their habitations, 
 which looked like little hillocks of earth. None of them, however, 
 attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little extraordinary. 
 These people must be the Tschutski, a nation that, at the time 
 Mr. Muller wrote, the Eussians had not been able to conquer. 
 
3i6 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 The more I was convinced of my being now upon the 
 coast of Asia, the more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr. Staehlin's 
 map of the New Northern Archipelago with my observations, 
 and I had no way to account for the great difference but by 
 supposing that I had mistaken some part of what he calls the 
 Island of Alaschka for the American continent, and had missed 
 the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there 
 would still have been a considerable difference. It was with me 
 a matter of some consequence to clear up this point the present 
 season, that I might have but one object in view the next. And 
 as the northern isles are represented by him as abounding with 
 wood, I was in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply 
 of that article, which we now began to be in great want of on 
 board. 
 
 With these views, I steered over for the American coast, 
 and on the 6th we got sight of it. 
 
 Pursuing our course, on the 9th we found ourselves upon a 
 coast covered with wood, an agreeable sight, to which of late we 
 had not been accustomed. Next morning, being about a league 
 from the west shore, I took two boats and landed, attended by 
 Mr. King, to seek wood and water. Here we observed tracks of 
 deer and foxes on the beach, on which also lay a great quantity 
 of drift>-wood, and there was no want of fresh water. I returned 
 on board with an intention to bring the ships to an anchor here, 
 but the wind then veering to north-east, I stretched over to the 
 opposite shore, in hopes of finding wood there also, and anchored 
 at eight o'clock in the evening, but next morning we found it to 
 be a peninsula united to the continent by a low neck of land, on 
 each side of which the coast forms a bay, which obtained the 
 name of Cape Denbigh. 
 
Third Voyage. 317 
 
 Several people were seen -upon the peninsula, and one man 
 came off in a small canoe. I gave him a knife and a few beads, 
 with which he seemed well pleased. Having made signs to him 
 to bring us something to eat, he immediately left us and paddled 
 towards the shore, but meeting another man coming off, who 
 happened to have two dried salmon, he got them from him, and, 
 on returning to the ship, would give them to nobody but me. 
 Some of our people thought that he had asked for me under the 
 name of Capitane ; but in this they were probably mistaken. 
 
 Lieutenant Gore being now sent to the peninsula, reported 
 that there was but little fresh water, and that wood was difficult 
 to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some distance 
 from the beach. This being the case I stood back to the other 
 shore, and at eight o'clock the next morning sent all the boats 
 and a party of men, with an officer, to get wood from the place 
 where I had landed two days before. 
 
 Next day a family of the natives came near to our wooding 
 party. I know not how many there were at first, but I saw only 
 the husband, the wife, and their child, and a fourth person, who 
 bore the human shape and that was all, for he was the most de- 
 formed cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was 
 almost blind ; and neither he nor his wife were such good-look- 
 ing people as we had sometimes seen amongst the natives of this 
 coast. The under lips of both were bored, and they had in their 
 possession some such glass beads as I had met with before 
 amongst their neighbours. But iron was their beloved article. 
 For four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I 
 got from them near four hundred pounds weight of fish, which 
 they had caught on this or the preceding day. I gave the child, 
 who was a girl, a few beads, on which the mother burst into 
 
3i8 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 tears, then the father, then the cripple, and at last, to complete 
 the concert, the girl herself. But this music continued not 
 long. Before night we had got the ships amply supplied with 
 wood, and had carried on board above twelve tuns of water to 
 each. 
 
 Some doubts being still entertained whether the coast we 
 were now upon belonged to an island or the American continent, 
 and the shallowness of the water putting it out of our power to 
 determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King with two 
 boats under his command to make such searches as might leave 
 no room for a variety of opinions on the subject. 
 
 This ofi&cer returned from his expedition on the 16th, and 
 reported that he proceeded with the boats about three or four 
 leagues farther than the ships had been able to go, that he then 
 landed on the west side ; that from the heights he could see the 
 two coasts join, and the inlet terminate in a small river or creek, 
 before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal 
 water. 
 
 From the elevated spot on which Mr. King surveyed the 
 Sound, he could distinguish many extensive valleys with rivers 
 running through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a 
 gentle ascent and moderate height. 
 
 In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton, speaker of the House of 
 Commons, and Mr. King's near relation, I named this inlet 
 Norton's Sound. 
 
 Eesolution to winter at the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 It was now high time to think of leaving these northern 
 regions, and to retire to some place during the winter, where I 
 might procure refreshments for my people, and a small supply of 
 
Third Voyage. 319 
 
 provisions. No place was so conveniently within our reach 
 where we could expect to have our wants relieved as the 
 Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, I determined to proceed. 
 
 On the 2d of October, at daybreak, we saw the island of 
 Oonalashka, bearing south-east. But as this was to us a new 
 point of view, and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we 
 were not sure of our situation till noon, when the observed lati- 
 tude determined it. But as all harbours were alike to me, pro- 
 vided they were equally safe and convenient, I hauled into a bay 
 that lies ten miles to the westward of Samganoodha, known by 
 the name of Egoochshac ; but we found very deep water, so that 
 we were glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived 
 here, visited us at different times, bringing with them dried salmon 
 and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for tobacco. 
 But a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in the 
 ship had been distributed among them ; and the quantity was 
 not half sufficient to answer their demands. Notwithstanding 
 this, so improvident a creature is an English sailor, that they 
 were as profuse in making their bargains as if we had arrived at 
 a port in Virginia. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha 
 harbour; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships 
 were set to work to overhaul and repair the ships. 
 
 There were great quantities of berries found ashore. In 
 order to avail ourselves as much as possible of this useful refresh- 
 ment, one-third of the people by turns had leave to go and pick 
 them. Considerable quantities of them were also procured from 
 the natives. If there were any seeds of the scurvy in either 
 ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer which they had *io 
 drink every other day, effectually eradicated them. 
 
320 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 We also got plenty of fish ; at first mostly salmon, both fresh 
 and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh sal- 
 mon was in high perfection ; we caught a good many salmon 
 trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty- 
 four pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and 
 lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned 
 without eight or ten halibut, which were more than sufficient to 
 serve all our people. 
 
 On the 8th, I received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, 
 named Derramoushka, a very singular present, considering the 
 place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pie made in the form of a 
 loaf, for it inclosed some salmon highly seasoned with pepper. 
 This man had the like present for Captain Gierke, and a note for 
 each of us, written in a character which none of us could read. 
 It was natural to suppose that this present was from some Eus- 
 sians now in our neighbourhood, and therefore we sent by the 
 same hand to these, our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, 
 wine, and porter. I also sent along with Derramoushka, 
 Corporal Lediard of the marines, an intelligent man, in order to 
 gain some farther information, with orders that, if he met with 
 any Eussians, he should endeavour to make them understand 
 that we were English, the friends and allies of their nation. 
 
 On the 10th, Lediard returned with three Eussian seamen, 
 or furriers, who with some others resided at Egoochshac, where 
 they had a dwelling-house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about 
 thirty tons burthen. They were all three well-behaved intelli- 
 gent men, and very ready to give me all the information I could 
 desire ; but for want of an interpreter, we had some difficulty to 
 understand each other. 
 
 On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr. Webber and I were 
 
Third Voyage, 321 
 
 at a village, at a small distance from Samganoodha, a Eussian 
 landed there, who I found was the principal person amongst his 
 countrymen in this and the neighbouring islands. His name 
 was Erasim Gregorioflf Sin Ismyloff. He arrived in a canoe 
 carrying three persons, attended by twenty or thirty other 
 canoes, each conducted by one man. I took notice that the first 
 thing they did after landing was to make a small tent for Ismyloff, 
 of materials which they brought with them ; and then they made 
 others for themselves of their canoes and paddles, which they 
 covered with grass, so that the people of the village were at no 
 trouble to find them lodging. Ismyloff, having invited us into 
 his tent, set before us some dried salmon and berries, which I 
 was satisfied was the best cheer he had. He appeared to be a 
 sensible, intelligent man, and I felt no small mortification in not 
 being able to converse with him unless by signs, assisted by 
 figures and other characters, which, however, were a very great 
 help. I desired to see him on board the next day, and accord- 
 ingly te came with all his attendants. 
 
 I found that he was very well acquainted with the geography 
 of these parts, and with all the discoveries that had been made 
 in them by the Eussians. On seeing the modern maps, he at 
 once pointed out their errors. 
 
 From what we could gather from Ismyloff and his country- 
 men, the Eussians have made several attempts to get a footing 
 upon that part of the continent that lies contiguous to Oona- 
 lashka and the adjoining islands, but have always been repulsed 
 by the natives, whom they describe as a very treacherous people. 
 They mentioned two or three captains or chief men who had been 
 murdered by them, and some of the Eussians showed us wounds 
 which they said they had received there. 
 
322 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 He would fain have made me a present of a sea-otter skin 
 which he said was worth eighty roubles at Kamtschatka. How- 
 ever, I thought proper to decline it, but I accepted of some dried 
 fish, and several baskets of the lily or saranne root, which is 
 described at large in the History of Kamtschatka. Next day 
 Mr. Ismyloff left us with all his retinue, promising to return in 
 a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he made us another visit, 
 and remained with us till the 21st, in the evening, when he took 
 his final leave. To his care I entrusted a letter to the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was enclosed a chart 
 of all the northern coasts I had visited.* Mr. Ismyloff seemed 
 
 * The following is the letter alluded to, remarkably clear and concise as usual, 
 and of great interest : — 
 
 *' Eesolution, at the Island of TJnalaschka, on the coast of America, in the lati- 
 tude of 53° K, longitude 192° 30' E. from Greenwich, the 20th October 1778. 
 
 "Sir — Having accidentally met with some Kussians, who have promised to 
 put this in a way of being sent to Petersburgh, and as I neither have, nor intend 
 to visit Kamtschatka as yet, I take this opportunity to give their Lordships a 
 short account of my proceedings from leaving the Cape of Good Hope to this time. 
 
 "After leaving the Cape, T, pursuant to their Lordships' instructions, visited 
 the island lately seen by the French, situated between the latitude of 48° 40' and 
 50° S., and in the longitude of 69^° E. These islands abound with good harbours 
 and fresh water, but produceth neither tree nor shrub, and but very little of any 
 kind of vegetation. After spending five days on the coast thereof, I quitted it on 
 the 30th December ; just touched at Van Diemen's Land ; arrived at Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, the 13th February 1777 ; left it again on the 
 25th, and pushed for Otaheite ; but we had not been long at sea before we met 
 with an easterly wind which continued so long, that the season was too far spent 
 to proceed to the north that year. At length the want of water and food for the 
 cattle I had on board obliged me to bear away for the Friendly Islands, so that it 
 was August before I arrived at Otaheite. I found that the Spaniards from Callao 
 had been twice at this island from the time of my leaving it in 1774. The first 
 time they came they left behind them, designedly, four Spaniards, who remained 
 upon the island about ten months, but were all gone some time before my arrival. 
 
Third Voyage. 323 
 
 to have abilities that might entitle him to a higher station in life 
 than that in which we found him. 
 
 They had also brought and left on the island, goats, hogs, and dogs, one bull and 
 a ram, but never a female of either of these species, so that those I carried and put 
 on shore there were highly acceptable. These consisted of a bull and three cows, 
 a ram and five ewes, besides poultry of four sorts, and a horse and a mare with 
 Omai. At the Friendly Isles I left a bull and cow, a horse and mare, and some 
 sheep ; in which, I flatter myself that the laudable intention of the King and their 
 Lordships have been fully answered. 
 
 ** I left Omai at Huaheine ; quitted the Society Isles the 9th of December ; 
 proceeded to the north, and in the lat. of 22° N., long. 200° E,, fell in with a group 
 of islands, inhabited by the same nation as Otaheite, and abounding with hogs and 
 roots. After a short stay at these islands, continued our route for the coast of 
 America, which we made on the 7th of last March ; and on the 29th, after endur- 
 ing several storms, got into a port in the lat. of 49 4° N". At this place, besides 
 taking in wood and water, the Kesolution was supplied with a new mizen-mast, 
 fore top-mast, and her fore-mast got out and repaired. 
 
 ** I put to sea again the 26th of April, and was no sooner out of port than we 
 were attacked by a violent storm, which was the occasion of so much of the coast 
 being passed unseen. In this gale the Eesolution sprung a leak, which obliged 
 me to put into a port in the lat. of 61°, long, 213° E. In a few days I was again 
 at sea, and soon found we were on a coast where every step was to be considered, 
 where no information could be had from maps, either modem or ancient ; confid- 
 ing too much in the former, we were frequently misled, to our no small hindrance. 
 On an extensive coast, altogether unknown, it may be thought needless to say 
 that we met with many obstacles before we got through the narrow strait that 
 divides Asia from America, where the coast of the latter takes a N.E. direction. 
 I followed it, flattered with the hopes of having at last overcome all difficulties, 
 when, on the 17th of August, in lat, 70° 45', long. 198° E., we were stopped by an 
 impenetrable body of ice, and had so far advanced between it and the land before 
 we discovered it, that little was wanting to force us on shore. 
 
 ** Finding I could no longer proceed along the coast, I tried what could be 
 done farther out ; but the same obstacles everywhere presented themselves, quite 
 over to the coast of Asia, which we made on the 29th of the same month (August), 
 in the lat. of 68° 55', long. 180^° E. As frost and snow, the forerunners of winter, 
 began to set in, it was thought too late in the season to make a farther attempt 
 
324 CooMs Voyages. 
 
 In the morning of the 22d we made an attempt to get to 
 sea, with the wind at south-east, which miscarried. The follow- 
 ing afternoon we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Sopos- 
 
 for a passage this year in any direction, I therefore steered to the S.E., along the 
 coast of Asia : passed the strait above mentioned, the narrow strait that divides 
 Asia from America, and then stood over for the American coast, to clear up some 
 doubts, and to search, but in vain, for a harbour to complete our wood and water. 
 "Wood is a very scarce article in all these northern parts ; except in one place, 
 there is none upon the sea coast but what is thrown ashore by the sea, some of 
 which we got on board, and then proceeded to this place, where we had been be- 
 fore, to take in water. From hence I intend to proceed to Sandwich Islands ; 
 that is, those discovered in 22° N. lat. After refreshing there, return to the north 
 by the way of Kamtschatka ; and the ensuing summer, make another and final 
 attempt to find a northern passage ; but I must confess, I have little hopes of suc- 
 ceeding. Ice, though an obstacle not easily surmounted, is perhaps not the only 
 one in the way. — The coasts of the two continents are flat for some distance off ; 
 and even in the middle, between the two, the depth of water is inconsiderable. 
 This and some other circumstances, all tending to prove that there is more land in 
 the Frozen Sea than as yet we know of, where the ice has its source ; and that the 
 Polar part is far from being an open sea. 
 
 ** There is another discouraging circumstance attending the navigating these 
 northern parts, and that is the want of harbours, where a ship can occasionally 
 retire to secure herself from the ice, or repair any damage she may have sustained. 
 For a more particular account of the American coast, I beg leave to refer you to 
 the enclosed chart, which is hastily copied from an original of the. same scale. 
 
 "The reason of my not going to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul in 
 Kamtschatka, to spend the winter, is the great dislike I have to lay inactive for 
 six or eight months, while so large a part of the Northern Pacific Ocean remains 
 unexplored, and the state and condition of the ships will allow me to be moving. 
 Sickness has been little felt in the ships, and scurvy not at all. I have, however, 
 had the misfortune to lose Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who died of a lingering 
 consumption two months ago, and one man some time before, of the dropsy ; and 
 Captain Gierke had one drowned by accident, which are all we have lost since we 
 left the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 •* Stores and provisions we have enough for twelve months and longer ; with- 
 out a supply of both, will hardly be possible for us to remain in those seaa ; but 
 
Third Voyage, 325 
 
 nicoff, a Eussian, who commanded a small vessel at Oomanak. 
 Tiiis man had a great share of modesty and intelligence. 
 
 After we became acquainted with these Kussians, some of 
 our gentlemen, at different times, visited their settlement on the 
 island, where they always met with a hearty welcome. This 
 settlement consisted of a dwelling-house and two store-houses. 
 And, besides the Eussians, there was a number of the Kamtscha- 
 dales, and of the natives, as servants or slaves to the former. 
 Some others of the natives, who seemed independent of the 
 Eussians, lived at the same place. They all dwell in the same 
 house, the Eussians at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the 
 middle, and the natives at the lower end, where is fixed a large 
 boiler for preparing their food, which consists chiefly of what 
 the sea produces, with the addition of wild roots and berries. 
 
 As the island supplies them with food, so it does, in a great 
 measure, with clothing. This consists chiefly of skins, and is 
 perhaps the best they could have. The upper garment is made 
 
 whatever time we do remain shall be spent in the improvement of geography and 
 navigation, by, Sir, your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 "James Cook." 
 
 ** Islands discovered in the voyage, not mentioned in this letter, — 
 Mangia-nooe-nai-naiwa, lat. 21° 57' S., long. 201° 53' E. 
 
 Wantien, , 20° 01' S., „ 201° 45' E. 
 
 Toobooi, „ 23°25'S., „ 210° 24' E. 
 
 •* These three islands are inhabited. There is anchorage and good landing at 
 the last, but not at the others.. 
 
 "Christmas Island, lat. 1° 55' N., long. 202° 40' E., alow, barren, uninhabited 
 island, with anchorage on the west side. It abounds with turtle, but has no fresh 
 water. 
 
 " Besides these islands, we visited some not known before, between 19° and 20° 
 S., adjoining to, and making part of, the Friendly Islands." — Captain's Letters^ 
 C. vol. 25. — AohniraUy Records^ Whitehall. 
 
326 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 like our waggoner's frock, and reaches as low as the knee. 
 Besides this, they wear a waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a fur 
 cap, and a pair of boots, the soles and upper leathers of which are of 
 Eussian leather, but the legs are made of some kind of strong gut. 
 
 They make use of no paint, but the women puncture their 
 faces slightly ; and both men and women bore the under lip, to 
 which they fix pieces of bone. 
 
 Their food consists of fish, sea animals, birds, roots, and 
 berries, and even of sea-weed. They eat almost everything raw. 
 Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that I 
 saw them make use of, and the first was probably learnt from 
 the Eussians. 
 
 I was once present when the Chief of Oonalashka made his 
 dinner on the raw head of a large halibut, just caught, which he 
 swallowed with as much satisfaction as we should do raw oysters. 
 When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in pieces, 
 and given to the attendants, who tore off the meat with their 
 teeth, and gnawed the bones like so many dogs. 
 
 Their method of building is as follows : — They dig in the 
 ground an oblong square pit, the length of which seldom exceeds 
 fifty feet, and the breadth twenty ; but in general the dimensions 
 are smaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of wood 
 which the sea throws ashore. This roof is covered first with 
 grass, and then with earth, so that the outward appearance is like 
 a dunghill. In the middle of the roof, towards each end, is left 
 a square opening, by which the light is admitted : one of these 
 openings being for this purpose only, and the other being also 
 used to go in and out by, with the help of a ladder. Eound the 
 sides and ends of the huts, the families (for several are lodged 
 together) have their separate apartments, where they sleep and 
 
Third Voyage, 327 
 
 sit at work, not Tipon benches, but in a kind of concave trench, 
 which is dug all round the inside of the house, and covered with 
 mats, so that this part is kept tolerably decent. But the middle 
 of the house, which is common to all the families, is far other- 
 wise ; for, although it be covered with dry grass, it is a receptacle 
 for dirt of every kind. 
 
 Their household furniture consists of bowls, Spoons, buckets, 
 piggins or cans, matted baskets, and perhaps a Eussian kettle or 
 pot. All these utensils are very neatly made, and well formed, 
 and yet we saw no other tools among them but the knife and the 
 hatchet. There are few, if any of them, that do not smoke, chew 
 tobacco, and take snuff ; a luxury that bids fair to keep them 
 always poor. 
 
 I saw not a fire-place in any one of their houses. They are 
 lighted, as well as heated, by lamps, which are simple, and yet 
 answer the purpose very well. They are made of a flat stone, 
 hollowed on one side like a plate, and about the same size, or 
 rather larger. In the hollow part they put the oil, mixed with a 
 little dry grass, which serves the purpose of a wick. 
 
 I have frequently remarked how nearly the natives, on this 
 north-west side of America, resemble the Greenlanders and 
 Esquimaux, in various particulars of person, dress, weapons, 
 canoes, and the like. However, I was much less struck with this 
 than with the affinity which we found subsisting between the 
 dialects of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of Norton's 
 Sound and Oonalashka. Erom which there is great reason to 
 believe that all these nations are of the same extraction ; and if 
 so, there can be no doubt of there being a northern communica- 
 tion of some sort, by sea, between this west side of America and 
 the east side, through Baffin's Bay ; which communication, how • 
 
328 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 aver, may be effectually shut up against ships by ice and other 
 impediments. Such, at least, was my opinion at this time. 
 
 In the morning of Monday, the 26th of October, we put to 
 sea from Samganoodha harbour. My intention was now to pro- 
 ceed to the Sandwich Islands, there to spend a few of the winter 
 months, in case we should meet with the necessary refreshments, 
 and then to direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour 
 to be there by the middle of May the ensuing summer. In con- 
 sequence of this resolution, I gave Captain Gierke orders how to 
 proceed in case of separation ; appointing the Sandwich Islands 
 for the first place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropau- 
 lowska in Kamtschatka for the second. 
 
 Nothing remarkable happened during our course. At day- 
 break on the 26th of November, land was seen extending from 
 south south-east to west. We were now satisfied that the group 
 of the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered, 
 as those which we had visited in our progress northward all lie 
 to the leeward of our present station. 
 
 I bore up and ranged along the coast to the westward. It 
 was not long before we saw people on several parts of the shore, 
 and some houses and plantations. The country seemed to be 
 both well wooded and watered. 
 
 At noon, seeing some canoes coming off to us, I brought to. 
 We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish for nails and 
 pieces of iron. They brought very little fruit and roots ; but told 
 us that they had plenty of them on their island, as also hogs and 
 fowls. Having no doubt that the people would return to the 
 ships next day with the produce of their country, I kept plying 
 off all night, and in the morning stood close in shore. At first 
 only a few of the natives visited us ; but toward noon we had the 
 
Third Voyage. 329 
 
 company of a good many, who brought with them bread-fruit, 
 potatoes, taro, or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs ; all 
 of which they exchanged for nails and iron tools. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 30th, being off the north-east end of 
 the island, several canoes came off to the ships. Most of these 
 belonged to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came in one of them. 
 He made me a present of two or three small pigs ; and we got 
 by barter from the other people a little fruit. After a stay of 
 about two hours they all left us, except six or eight of their 
 company, who chose to remain on board. A double sailing canoe 
 came soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all 
 night. In the evening we discovered another island to windward, 
 which the natives caU Owhyhee. 
 
 Keturn to the Sandwich Islands, December 1778. 
 
 On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, finding 
 that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it ; and our visitors 
 from another island, called Mowee, not chusing to accompany us, 
 embarked in their canoe, and went ashore. 
 
 Next morning we were surprised to see the summits of the 
 mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. As we drew near 
 the shore, some of the natives came off to us. They were a little 
 shy at first, but we soon enticed some of them on board, and at 
 last prevailed upon them to return to the island and bring off 
 what we wanted. 
 
 Having procured a quantity of sugar-cane, and finding a 
 strong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, I ordered 
 some more to be brewed for our general use. But when the cask 
 was now broached, not one of my crew would even so much as 
 taste it I myself and the of&cers continued to make use of it 
 
330 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of 
 which we had some on board, improved it much. It has the 
 taste of new malt beer ; and I believe no one will doubt of its 
 being very wholesome. Yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that 
 it was injurious to their health. 
 
 Every innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so 
 much to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest 
 disapprobation. Both portable soup and sour krout were at first 
 condemned as stuff unfit for human beings. Few commanders 
 have introduced into their ships more novelties, as useful 
 varieties of food and drink, than I have done. It has, however, 
 been in a great measure owing to various little deviations from 
 established practice that I have been able to preserve my people, 
 generally speaking, from that dreadful distemper, the scur\^, 
 which has perhaps destroyed more of our sailors in their peaceful 
 voyages than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. 
 
 I kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when 
 I stood in again ; and, after having had some trade with the 
 natives who visited us, returned to sea. 
 
 At daybreak a dreadful surf breaking upon the shore, which 
 was not more than half a league distant, made it evident that we 
 had been in the most imminent danger. Nor were we yet in safety, 
 the wind veering more easterly, so that for some time we did 
 but just keep our distance from the coast. In the afternoon 
 of the 20th, some of the natives came off in their canoes, bring- 
 ing with them a few pigs and plantains. We continued trading 
 with the people tiU four in the afternoon, when, having got a 
 pretty good supply, we made sail and stretched off to the 
 northward. 
 
 I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and 
 
Third Voyage, 331 
 
 suspicion in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we 
 experienced in the people of this island. It was very common 
 for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought 
 off for barter ; afterward, they would come in themselves, and 
 make their bargains on the quarter-deck. The people of Otaheite, 
 even after our repeated visits, do not care to put so much confi- 
 dence in us. 
 
 On the 23d we tacked to the southward, and had hopes of 
 weathering the island. We should have succeeded if the wind 
 had not died away, and left us to the mercy of a great swell 
 which carried us fast toward the land, which was not two leagues 
 distant. At length some light puffs of wind which came with 
 showers of rain, put us out of danger. While we lay as it were 
 becalmed, several of the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, 
 fruit, and roots. 
 
 At four in the afternoon, after purchasing everything that 
 the natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had 
 occasion for, we made sail and stretched to the north. At mid- 
 night we tacked and stood to the south-east. Upon a supposition 
 that the " Discovery " would see us tack, the signal was omitted ; 
 but she did not see us, as we afterwards found, and continued 
 standing to the north ; for at daylight next morning she was 
 not in sight. At six in the evening the southernmost extreme 
 of the island bore south-west, the nearest shore seven or eight 
 miles distant, so that we had now succeeded in getting to the 
 windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much 
 perseverance. 
 
 The " Discovery, ^ however, was not yet to be seen. But the 
 wind as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I 
 concluded that it would not be long before she joined us. 
 
22,2 ■ Cook's Voyages, 
 
 We began to be in want of fresh provision on the 30tli. At 
 ten o'clock next morning we were met by the islanders with fruit 
 and roots ; but in all the canoes were only three small pigs. 
 
 Before daybreak the atmosphere was again loaded with 
 heavy clouds ; and the new year was ushered in with very hard 
 rain, which continued at intervals till past ten o'clock. We lay 
 to, trading with the inhabitants till three o'clock in the afternoon ; 
 when, having a tolerable supply, we made sail with a view of 
 proceeding to look for the " Discovery." 
 
 The three following days were spent in running down the 
 south-east side of the island. 
 
 On the 5th January 1779, in the morniag, we passed the 
 south point of the island. On this there stands a pretty large 
 village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with 
 hogs and women. It was not possible to keep the latter from 
 coming on board. This part of the country, from its appearance, 
 did not seem capable of affording any vegetables. Marks of its 
 having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano every- 
 where presented themselves : the devastation that it had made 
 in this neighbourhood was visible to the naked eye. 
 
 Between ten and eleven next morning we saw with pleasure 
 the " Discovery " coming round the south point of the island ; and 
 at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Gierke then 
 coming on board, informed me that he had cruised four or five 
 days where we were separated, and then pHed round the east 
 side of the island ; but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, 
 he had been carried to some distance from the coast. He had 
 one of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained 
 there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship, though 
 opportunities had offered. 
 
Third Voyage, ^^^ 
 
 For several days we kept as usual standing off and on with 
 occasional visits from the natives. At daybreak on the 16th, 
 seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr. Bligh with a boat 
 from each ship to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. 
 Canoes now began to arrive from all parts, so that before ten 
 o'clock there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, 
 most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs and 
 other productions of the island. One of our visitors took out of 
 the ship a boat's rudder. He was discovered, but too late to re- 
 cover it. I thought this a good opportunity to show these people 
 the use of firearms, and two or three muskets, and as many four- 
 pounders, were fired over the canoe which carried off the rudder. 
 As it was not intended that any of the shot should take effect, 
 the surrounding multitude of natives seemed rather more sur- 
 prised than frightened. In the evening Mr. Bligh returned, and 
 reported that he had found a bay, in which was good anchorage 
 and fresh water. Here I resolved to carry the ships to refit, and 
 supply ourselves with every refreshment the place could afford. 
 Numbers of our visitors request permission to sleep on board. 
 Curiosity was not the only motive, at least with some ; for the 
 next morning several things were missing, which determined me 
 not to entertain so many another night. 
 
 At eleven o'clock in the forenoon we anchored in the bay, 
 which is called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships continued 
 to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a 
 multitude of canoes. I had nowhere, in the course of my voy- 
 ages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. 
 For besides those in canoes, all the shore was covered with spec- 
 tators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like 
 shoals of fisL We could not but be struck with the singularity 
 
334 Ccok's Voyages. 
 
 of this scene ; few now lamented our having failed in our en- 
 deavours to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To 
 this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit 
 the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery 
 which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most 
 important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout 
 the extent of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 Sere Captain GooUs Journal endSy January 1779. 
 
I 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 The Closing Scene, Januaey, Febkuaky 1'779. 
 
 While Captain Cook seems to have enjoyed the idea of this 
 discovery, little did he imagine that his labours were so soon to 
 be terminated at this disastrous place, which will ever derive a 
 disgraceful immortality from his sad fate. Here his journal ends; 
 and as we have recorded the principal events of his useful life, 
 we shall detail the melancholy circumstances that led to his 
 
336 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 lamented death, preserving as nearly as possible the words of his 
 amiable coadjutor Captain King, whose account of the voyage 
 now commences. 
 
 Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island of 
 Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in 
 depth, and bounded by two low points of land at the distance of 
 half a league from each other. On the north point, which is flat 
 and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom 
 of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another 
 village of a more considerable size called Kakooa. This bay 
 appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the ships, and 
 lay in an additional supply of water and provisions, we moored 
 on the north side. 
 
 As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchor- 
 ing in the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing num- 
 bers, and expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and 
 exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant gestures. 
 
 Among the chiefs that came on board the "Eesolution'' was a 
 young man called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a person 
 of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he 
 told him that he was jakanee to the king of the island, who was 
 at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was 
 expected to return within three or four days. A few presents 
 from Captain Cook attached him entirely to our interests, and he 
 became exceedingly useful to us in the management of his coun- 
 trymen, as we had soon occasion to experience ; for we had not 
 been long at anchor, when it was observed that the " Discovery '' 
 had such a number of people hanging on one side, as occasioned 
 
Third Voyage, ^ol 
 
 her to heel considerably ; and that the men were unable to keep 
 off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook 
 being apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed 
 out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assist- 
 ance, cleared the ship of its incumbrances, and drove away the 
 canoes that surrounded her. 
 
 The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people appeared, 
 from this incident, to be of the most despotic kind. A similar 
 instance of it happened the same day on board the " Eesolution," 
 where the crowd being so great as to impede the necessary busi- 
 ness of the ship, we were obliged to have recourse to the assist- 
 ance of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had likewise 
 attached himself to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we 
 laboured under being made known, he immediately ordered his 
 coimtrymen to quit the vessel ; and we were not a little surprised 
 to see them jump overboard without a moment's hesitation. 
 
 Both these chiefs were men of strong and well-proportioned 
 bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing ; Kaneena, 
 especially, was one of the finest men I ever saw. He was about 
 six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with lively 
 dark eyes ; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. 
 
 The inhabitants had hitherto behaved with great fairness 
 and honesty, but we now found the case exceedingly altered. 
 The immense crowd of islanders which blocked up every part o 
 the ships not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering, 
 without risk of discovery, but our inferiority in number held 
 forth a prospect of escaping with impunity in case of detection. 
 Another circumstance to which we attributed this alteration in 
 their behaviour, was the presence and encouragement of their 
 chiefs ; for generally tracing the booty into the possession of 
 
33 S Cook's Voyages. 
 
 some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect 
 that these depredations were committed at their instigation. 
 
 Soon after the "Eesolution" had got into her station, our 
 two friends Pareea and Kaneena brought on board a third chief, 
 named Koah, who, we were told, was a priest, and had been in 
 his youth a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of 
 an emaciated figure ; his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his 
 body covered with a white leprous scurf, the effects of an immo- 
 derate use of the ava. Being led into the cabin, he approached 
 Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his shoulders 
 a piece of red cloth which he had brought along with him. Then 
 stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig, 
 which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse that 
 lasted for a considerable time. 
 
 When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain 
 Cook, eating plentifully of what was set before him ; but, like 
 the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could 
 scarcely be prevailed on to taste a second time our wine or spirits. 
 In the evening Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myself, 
 accompanied him on shore. We landed at the beach, and were 
 received by four men who carried wands tipped with dog's hair, 
 and marched before us, pronouncing with a loud voice a short 
 sentence, in which we could only distinguish the word Orono.* 
 The crowd which had been collected on the shore retired at 
 our approach, and not a person was to be seen except a few 
 lying prostrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining 
 village. 
 
 • Captain Cook generally went by this name amongst the natives of Owhy- 
 hee ; but we could never leam its precise meaning, though it was certainly a title 
 v>f reli^rious veneration. 
 
Third Voyage. 339 
 
 Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to 
 Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was 
 received on this fatal island, it will be necessary to describe a 
 niorai, or burying-place, situated at the south side of the beach 
 at Kakooa. It was a square solid pile of stones, about forty- 
 yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top waa 
 flat and well paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which 
 were fixed the skulls of the captives sacrificed on the death of 
 their chiefs. In the centre of the area stood a ruinous old 
 building of wood, connected with the rail on each side by a 
 stone wall, which divided the whole space into two parts. On 
 the side next the country were five poles, upwards of twenty feet 
 high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold ; on the opposite 
 side, toward the sea, stood two small houses, with a covered 
 communication. 
 
 We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile, by an 
 easy ascent. At the entrance we saw two large wooden images, 
 with features violently distorted, and a long piece of carved 
 wood, of a conical form inverted, rising from the top of their 
 heads ; the rest was without form, and wrapped round with red 
 cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long 
 beard, who presented Captain Cook to the images ; and after 
 chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they 
 led us to that end of the morai where the five poles were fixed. 
 At the foot of them were twelve images, ranged in a semicircu- 
 lar form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or 
 table, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of sugar- 
 cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and sweet potatoes. 
 Koah, having placed the Captain under the stand, took down 
 the hog, and held it toward him ; and after having a second 
 
340 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 time addressed him in a long speech, pronounced with much 
 vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him 
 to the scaffolding, which they began to climb together, not with- 
 out great risk of falling. At this time we saw, coming in solemn 
 procession, at the entrance of the top of the moral, ten men 
 carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being ad- 
 vanced a few paces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves ; 
 and Kaireekeea, the young man above mentioned, went to them, 
 and receiving the cloth, carried it to Koah, who wrapped it 
 round the Captain and afterward offered him the hog, which was 
 brought by Kaireekeea with the same ceremony. 
 
 Whilst Captain Cook was aloft, in this awkward situation, 
 swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his 
 hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea and 
 Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert, and 
 sometimes alternately. This lasted a considerable time ; at 
 length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain de- 
 scended together. He then led him to the images before men- 
 tioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, 
 snapped his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to 
 that in the centre, which, from its being covered with red cloth, 
 appeared to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this 
 figure he prostrated himself and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook 
 to do the same, who suffered himself to be directed by Koah 
 throughout the whole of this ceremony. 
 
 We were now led back into the other division of the moral, 
 where there was a space ten or twelve feet square, sunk about 
 three feet below the level of the area. Into this we descended, 
 and Captain Cook was seated between two wooden idols, Koah 
 supporting one of his arms, while T was desired to support the 
 
Third Voyage. 341 
 
 other. At this time arrived a second procession of natives car- 
 rying a baked hog and a pudding, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, 
 and other vegetables which were presented as before. 
 
 When this offering was concluded, the natives sat down, 
 fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vege- 
 tables, and break the cocoa-nuts, whilst others employed them- 
 selves in brewing the ava, which is done by chewing it in the 
 same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took 
 part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut which he chewed, and wrapped 
 it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, 
 hands, arms, and shoulders. The ava was then handed round, 
 and after we had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the 
 flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into our mouths. I had 
 no great objection to be fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in 
 his person ; but Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recol- 
 lecting the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel ; and his 
 reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the 
 old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it 
 for him. 
 
 When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook 
 put an end to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the morai, 
 after distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron and 
 other trifles, with which they seemed highly gratified. The men 
 with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the same words 
 as before. The people again retired, and the few that remained, 
 prostrated themselves as we passed along the shore. We imme- 
 diately went on board, our minds full of what we had seen, and 
 extremely well satisfied with the good dispositions of our new 
 friends, whose respect to the person of Captain Cook seemed 
 approaching to adoration. 
 
342 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 The next morning I went on shore with a guard of eight 
 marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to 
 erect the observatory in such a situation as might best enable me 
 to superintend and protect the waterers and the other working 
 parties that were to be on shore. As we were viewing a spot 
 conveniently situated for this purpose in the middle of the 
 village, Pareea offered to pull down some houses that would have 
 obstructed our observations. However, we thought it proper to 
 decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet potatoes adjoining 
 to the moral, which was readily granted us ; and the priests, to 
 prevent the intrusion of the natives, immediately consecrated the 
 place by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was 
 enclosed. 
 
 No canoes ever presumed to land near us ; the natives sat 
 on the wall, but none offered to come within the tabooed space, 
 till he had obtained our permission. But though the men at our 
 request would come across the field with provisions, yet not all 
 our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach us. 
 This circumstance afforded no small matter of amusement to our 
 friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of 
 women that continued to flock thither, obliged them almost every 
 hour to clear the vessel, in order to have room to do the neces- 
 sary duties of the ship. 
 
 From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us 
 to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of the 
 island, nothing very material happened on board. 
 
 We had not been long settled at the observatory before we 
 discovered in our neighbourhood the habitations of a society of 
 priests, whose regular attendance at the moral had excited our 
 curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of water, and were 
 
Third Voyage. 343 
 
 surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, wHch separated them 
 from the beach and the rest of the village, and gave the place an 
 air of religious retirement. On my acquainting Captain Cook 
 with these circumstances, he resolved to pay them a visit ; and, 
 as he expected, was received in the same manner as before. 
 
 During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, when- 
 ever Captain Cook came on shore he was attended by one of these 
 priests, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had 
 landed, and ordering the people to prostrate themselves. The 
 same person also constantly accompanied him on the water, 
 standing in the bow of the boat with a wand in his hand, and 
 giving notice of his approach to the natives who were in canoes, 
 on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay down on 
 their faces till he had passed. 
 
 The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to 
 mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received from 
 them every day a constant supply of hogs and vegetables more 
 than sufficient for our subsistence ; and several canoes loaded 
 with provisions were sent to the ships with the same punctuality. 
 No return was ever demanded, or even hinted at in the most 
 distant manner. Their presents were made with a regularity 
 more like the discharge of a religious duty than the effect of 
 mere liberality. 
 
 We had not always so much reason to be satisfied with the 
 conduct of the warrior-chiefs, or earees, as with that of our priests. 
 In all our dealings with the former, we found them sufficiently 
 attentive to their own interests ; and besides their habit of steal- 
 ing, which may admit of some excuse from the universality of 
 the practice amongst the islanders of these seas, they make use 
 of other artifices equally dishonourable. 
 
344 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 On the 24th we were a good deal surprised to find that no 
 canoes were suffered to put off from the shore, and that the natives 
 kept close to their houses. After several hour's suspense, we 
 learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us in- 
 terdicted, on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. In the after- 
 noon of next day, Terreeoboo visited the ships in a private man- 
 ner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and 
 children. He stayed on board till near ten o'clock, when he 
 returned to the village of Kowrowa. 
 
 The next day about noon, the king in a large canoe, attended 
 by two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward the 
 ship in great state. Their appearance was grand and magnifi- 
 cent. In the first canoe was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed 
 in their rich feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long 
 spears and daggers ; in the second came the venerable Kaoo, the 
 chief of the priests and his brethren, with their idols displayed 
 on red cloth. The third canoe was fiUed with hogs and various 
 sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre 
 canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity ; and, after paddliug 
 round the ships, instead of going on board as we expected, they 
 made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed. 
 
 As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our little 
 guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook perceiving that he 
 was going on shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same 
 time. We conducted them into the tent, where they had scarcely 
 been seated when the king rose up, and in a very graceful man- 
 ner threw over the captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, 
 put a feathered helmet upon his head, and a curious fan into his 
 hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks, all ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His attendants 
 
Third Voyage. 345 
 
 then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, 
 and bread-fruit ; and this part of the ceremony was concluded by 
 the king's exchanging names with Captain Cook, which, amongst 
 all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest 
 pledge of friendship. A procession of priests with a venerable 
 old personage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long 
 train of men leading large hogs, and others carrying plantains, 
 sweet potatoes, etc. By the looks and gestures of Kaireekeea, I 
 immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priests on 
 whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He had a piece of red 
 cloth in his hands which he wrapped round Captain Cook's 
 shoulders, and afterward presented him with a small pig in the 
 usual form. 
 
 As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain 
 Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could 
 hold, on board the " Eesolution." They were received with every 
 mark of respect that could be shown them ; and Captain Cook, 
 in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, 
 and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and 
 about half a dozen more old chiefs remained on shore, and took 
 up their abode at the priests' houses. During all this time not 
 a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives either kept within 
 their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. 
 
 The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having 
 taken away every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate to 
 trust ourselves amongst them at all times, and in all situations. 
 The officers of both ships went daily up the country in small 
 parties, or even singly, and frequently remained out the whole 
 night. It would be endless to recount all the instances of kind- 
 ness and civility which we received upon those occasions. 
 
34^ Cook's Voyages, 
 
 Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer 
 every assistance in their power, and highly gratified if their 
 services were accepted. 
 
 The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and hos- 
 pitality was, however, frequently interrupted by that propensity 
 to stealing which they have in common with all the other 
 islanders of these seas. This circumstance was the more dis- 
 tressing, as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse to acts of 
 severity, which we should willingly have avoided, if the neces- 
 sity of the case had not absolutely called for them. 
 
 On the 28th January, Captain Gierke, whose ill health con- 
 fined him for the most part on board, paid Terreeoboo his first 
 visit at his hut on shore. He was received with the same 
 formalities as were observed with Captain Cook ; and on his 
 coming away, though the visit was quite unexpected, he received 
 a present of thirty large hogs, and as much fruit and roots as his 
 crew could consume in a week. 
 
 As we had not yet seen anything of their sports or athletic 
 exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our officers, enter- 
 tained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though these 
 games were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity and 
 magnificence, as in the skill and power of the combatants, to 
 what we had seen exhibited at the Friendly Islands, yet, as they 
 differed in some particulars, it may not be improper to give a 
 short account of them. We found a vast concourse of people 
 assembled on a level spot of ground, at a little distance from our 
 tents. A long space was left vacant in the midst of them, at the 
 upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards, from 
 which hung slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of two 
 wild geese, a few small birds, and bunches of feathers. When 
 
Third Voyage. 347 
 
 the sports were ready to begin, the signal was given by the 
 judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came 
 forward slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind and draw- 
 ing their hands along the soles. As they approached, they fre- 
 quently eyed each other from head to foot in a contemptuous 
 manner, casting several arch looks at the spectators, straining 
 their muscles, and using a variety of affected gestures. Being 
 advanced within reach of each other, they stood with both arms 
 held out strait before their faces, at which part all their blows 
 were aimed. They struck in what appeared to our eyes an 
 awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm, made no attempt 
 to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an inclination of 
 the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided, for 
 if either of them was knocked dov/n, or even fell by accident, he 
 was considered as vanquished, and the victor expressed his 
 triumph by a variety of gestures, which usually excited, as was 
 intended, a loud laugh among the spectators. As these games 
 were given at our desire, we found it was universally expected 
 that we should have borne our part in them ; but our people, 
 though much pressed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their 
 challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the 
 Friendly Islands. 
 
 This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's 
 crew, who, with the sincerest attachment, had followed Captain 
 Cook's fortunes for a number of years. 
 
 At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on 
 the moral, and the ceremony was performed with as much so- 
 lemnity as our situation permitted.* Old Kaoo and his brethren 
 
 * May not this public display of the mortality of their visitors haye tended to 
 lessen the exalted ideas which the natives at first seemed to entertain \ 
 
34^ Cook's Voyages, 
 
 were spectators, and preserved the most profound silence and 
 attention whilst the service was reading. When we began to fill 
 up the grave, they approached it with great reverence, threw in a 
 dead pig, some cocoa-nuts and plantains, and for three nights 
 afterwards they surrounded it, sacrificing hogs, and performing 
 their usual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued 
 till daybreak. 
 
 The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain desired 
 me, on the 2d of February, to treat with the priests for the pur- 
 chase of the rail that surrounded the top of the moral. I must 
 confess I had at first some doubt about the decency of this pro- 
 posal, and was apprehensive that even the bare mention of it 
 might be considered by them as a piece of shocking impiety. In 
 this, however, I found myself mistaken. N'ot the smallest sur- 
 prise was expressed at the application, and the wood was readily 
 given, even without stipulating for anything in return. 
 
 Terreeqboo and his chiefs had, for some days past, been 
 very inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circum- 
 stance had excited in me a great curiosity to know what opinion 
 this people had formed of us, and what were their ideas respect- 
 ing the cause and objects of our voyage. I took some pains to 
 satisfy myself on these points, but could never learn anything 
 farther than that they imagined we came from some country 
 where provisions had failed, and that our visit to them was merely 
 for the purpose of filling our belKes. Indeed, the meagre ap- 
 pearance of some of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we 
 sat down to their fresh provisions, and our great anxiety to pur- 
 chase and carry off as much as we were able, led them naturally 
 enough to such a conclusion. It was ridiculous enough to see 
 them stroking the sides and patting the bellies of the sailors 
 
Third Voyage. 349 
 
 (who were certainly much improved in the sleekness of their 
 looks during our short stay in the island), and telling them, 
 partly by signs and partly by words, that it was time for them to 
 go, but if they should come again the next bread-fruit season, 
 they should be better able to supply their w^ants. On our telling 
 Terreeoboo we should leave the island the next day but one, we 
 observed that a sort of proclamation was immediately made 
 through the villages, to require the people to bring in their hogs 
 and vegetables for the king to present to the Orono on his de- 
 parture. 
 
 The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo in- 
 vited Captain Cook and myself to attend him on the 3d, to the 
 place where Kaoo resided. On our arrival, we found the ground 
 covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quantity of red and yellow 
 feathers tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut husks, and a great number 
 of hatchets and other pieces of ironware that had been got in 
 barter from us. At a little distance from these lay an immense 
 quantity of vegetables of every kind, and near them was a very 
 large herd of hogs. At first we imagined the whole to be intended 
 as a present for us, till Kaireekeea informed me that it was a 
 gift, or tribute from the people of that district to the king ; and 
 accordingly, as soon as we were seated, they brought all the 
 bundles, and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet, who gave 
 all the hogs and vegetables, and two-thirds of the cloth, to Captain 
 Cook and myseK. We were astonished at the value and magni- 
 tude of this present, which far exceeded everything of the kind 
 we had seen, either at the Friendly or Society Islands. 
 
 The same day we quitted the moral, and got the tents and 
 astronomical instruments on board. The charm of the taboo 
 was now removed ; and here I hope I may be permitted to re- 
 
350 Cooks Voyages. 
 
 late a trifling occurrence, in whicli I was principally concerned. 
 Having had the command of the party on shore, during the 
 whole time we were in the bay, I had an opportunity of becom- 
 ing well acquainted with the natives. 
 
 I spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections and 
 gain their esteem ; and had the good fortune to succeed so far, 
 that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was 
 strongly solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the 
 most flattering kind. When I excused myself by saying that 
 Captain Cook would not give his consent, they proposed that I 
 should retire into the mountains, where they said they would 
 conceal me, till after the departure of the ships ; and on my 
 farther assuring them that the Captain would not leave the bay 
 without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, 
 whose son they supposed I was, with a formal request that I 
 might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giving a positive 
 refusal to an offer so kindly intended, told them that he could 
 not part with me at that time, but that he should return to the 
 island next year, and would then endeavour to settle the matter 
 to their satisfaction. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 4th of February, we unmoored 
 and sailed out of the bay, and were followed by a great number 
 of canoes. Captain Cook's design was to finish the survey of 
 Owhyhee before he visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting 
 with a road better sheltered than the bay we had just left. 
 
 We had calm weather this and the following day, which 
 made our progTess to the northward very slow. In the morning 
 of the 6th, having passed the westermost point of the island, we 
 found ourselves abreast of a deep bay, called by the natives 
 Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes that this bay would furnish 
 
Third Voyage, 351 
 
 us with a safe and commodious harbour, as we saw to the north- 
 east several fine streams of water. On examination, however, it 
 was found unfit for our purpose. 
 
 After encountering some gales of wind with immaterial 
 damage, on the 8th, at daybreak, we found that the foremast 
 had given way. This accident induced Captain Cook to return 
 to Karakakooa Bay. On the 10th, the weather became moderate, 
 and a few canoes came off to us, from which we learnt that the 
 late storm had done much mischief, and that sp-veral large canoes 
 had been lost. During the remainder of the day we kept beating 
 to windward, and before night we were within a mile of the bay ; 
 but not choosing to run on while it was dark, we stood off and 
 on till daylight next morning, when we dropt anchor nearly in 
 the same place as before. 
 
 We were employed the whole of the 11th, and part of the 
 12th, in getting out the foremast, and sending it, with the car- 
 penters, on shore. As these repairs were likely to take up 
 several days, Mr. Bayley and myself got the astronomical appa- 
 ratus on shore on the 12th, and pitched our tents on the moral, 
 having with us a guard of a corporal and six marines. We re- 
 newed our friendly correspondence with the priests, who, for the 
 greater security of the workmen and their tools, tabooed the 
 place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it as 
 before. The sailmakers were also sent on shore, to repair the 
 damages which had taken place in their department during the 
 late gales. 
 
 Upon coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our recep- 
 tion very different from what it had been on our first arrival ; no 
 shouts, no bustle, no confusion ; but a solitary bay, with only 
 here and there a canoe stealing close along the shore. The im- 
 
o:) 
 
 2 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 pulse of curiosity, wliich had before operated to so great a degree, 
 might now, indeed, be supposed to have ceased ; but the hospitable 
 treatment we had invariably met with, and the friendly footing 
 on which we parted, gave us some reasoji to expect that they 
 would again have flocked about us with great joy on our return. 
 
 We were forming various conjectures upon the occasion of 
 this extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length 
 relieved by the return of a boat which had been sent on shore, 
 and brought us word that Terreeoboo was absent, and had left 
 the bay under the taboo. Though this account appeared very 
 satisfactory to most of us, yet others were of opinion that the 
 interdiction of all intercourse with us, on pretence of the king's 
 absence, was only to give him time to consult the chiefs in what 
 manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether these sus- 
 picions were well founded, or the account given by the natives 
 was the truth, we were never able to ascertain. For though it is 
 not improbable that our sudden return, for which they could see 
 no apparent cause, and the necessity of which we afterwards 
 found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occasion 
 some alarm ; yet the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, 
 on his supposed arrival the next morning, came immediately to 
 visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the natives to 
 their former friendly intercourse with us, are strong proofs that 
 they neither meant nor apprehended any change of conduct. 
 
 Toward the evening of the 13th, however the officer who 
 commanded the watering party of the "Discovery" came to inform 
 me that several chiefs had assembled at the well near the beach, 
 driving away the natives, whom we had hired to assist the 
 sailors in rolling down the casks to the shore. He told me at 
 the same time that he thought their behaviour extremely sus- 
 
Third Voyage, 353 
 
 picious, and that they meant to give him some farther dis- 
 turbance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine along with 
 him, but suffered him to take only his side-arms. In a short 
 time the officer returned, and on his acquainting me that the 
 islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were grown 
 very tumultuous, I went myself to the spot, attended by a 
 marine, with his musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away 
 their stones, and on my speaking to some of the chiefs, the mob 
 were driven away, and those who chose it were suffered to assist 
 in filling the casks. 
 
 Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a 
 continued fire of muskets from the "Discovery," which we 
 observed to be directed at a canoe that we saw paddling toward 
 the shore in great haste, pursued by one of our small boats. We 
 immediately concluded that the firing was in consequence of some 
 theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him with a marine 
 armed, and to endeavour to seize the people as they came on 
 shore. Accordingly we ran toward the place where we supposed 
 the canoe would land, but were too late ; the people having 
 quitted it, and made their escape into the country before our 
 arrival ; but the goods stolen had been recovered. 
 
 During our absence a difference of a more serious and un- 
 pleasant nature had happened. The officer who had been sent 
 in the small boat, and was returning on board with the goods 
 which had been restored, observing Captain Cook and me en- 
 gaged in the pursuit of the offenders, thought it his duty to seize 
 the canoe, which was left drawn up on the shore. Unfortunately 
 this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving at the same moment 
 from on board the " Discovery," claimed his property with many 
 protestations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it up, 
 
 2a 
 
354 Cooizs Voyages. 
 
 and being joined by the crew of tbe pinnace, a scuffle ensued, in 
 which Pareea was knocked down by a violent blow upon his 
 head with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the 
 spot, and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately 
 attacked our people with such a shower of stones as forced them 
 to retreat with great precipitation, and swim off to a rock at some 
 distance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately ransacked 
 by the islanders ; and but for the timely interposition of Pareea, 
 who seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at 
 the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. 
 Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people that 
 they might come and take possession of the pinnace, and that he 
 would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken 
 out of it. After their departure he followed them in his canoe with 
 a midshipman's cap and some other trifling articles of the plunder, 
 and with much apparent concern at what had happened, asked if 
 the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to 
 come on board next day ? On being assured that he should be 
 well received, he joined noses (as their custom is) with the officers, 
 in token of friendship, and paddled over to the village of 
 Kowrowa. 
 
 When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he 
 expressed much uneasiness at it, and, as we were returning on 
 board, " I am afraid," said he, " that these people will oblige me 
 to use some violent measures ; for (he added) they must not be 
 left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us." 
 
 Next morning, the 14th, at daylight, I went on board the 
 *' Eesolution'* for the time-keeper, and in my way was hailed by 
 the " Discovery," and informed that their cutter had been stolen 
 during the night from the buoy where it was moored. 
 
Third Voyage. 355 
 
 When I arrived on board I found the marines arming, and 
 Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. It had been his 
 usual practice whenever anything of consequence was lost at 
 any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king or some of the 
 principal earees on board, and to keep them as hostages till it 
 was restored. This method, which had been always attended 
 with success, he meant to pursue on the present occasion. 
 
 It was between seven and eight o'clock when we quitted the 
 ship together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips 
 and nine marines with him, and myself in the small boat. The 
 last orders I received from him were, to quiet the minds of the 
 natives on our side of the bay, by assuring them they should not 
 be hurt ; to keep my people together, and to be on my guard. 
 We then parted ; the Captain went toward Kowrowa, where the 
 king resided, and I proceeded to the beach. My first care on 
 going ashore was to give strict orders to the marines to remain 
 within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit 
 their arms. Afterwards I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo 
 and the priests, and explained to them as weU as I could the 
 object of the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed 
 them. I found that they had already heard of the cutter's being 
 stolen, and I assured them, that though Captain Cook was re- 
 solved to recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet 
 that they, and the people of the village on our side, need not be 
 under the smallest apprehension of suffering any evil from us. 
 Kaoo asked me with great earnestness if Terreeoboo was to be 
 hurt ? I assured him he was not ; and both he and the rest of 
 his brethren seemed much satisfied with this assurance. 
 
 In the meantime Captain Cook having called off the launch, 
 which was stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it 
 
35^ Cook's Voyages, 
 
 along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the 
 lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately marched to the 
 village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect, 
 the people prostrating themselves before him, and bringing their 
 accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that there was no 
 suspicion of his design, his next step was to inquire for Terreeo- 
 boo, and the two boys, his sons, who had been his constant guests 
 on board the " Eesolution." In a short time the boys returned 
 along with the natives, who had been sent in search of them, and 
 immediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king had 
 slept. They found the old man just awoke from sleep ; and after 
 a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which 
 Captain Cook was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, 
 lie invited him to return in the boat, and spend the day on board 
 the " Eesolution." To this proposal the king readily consented, 
 and immediately got up to accompany him. 
 
 Things were in this prosperous train ; the two boys being 
 already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced 
 near the waterside, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kaba- 
 reea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, 
 came after him, and with many tears and entreaties, besought 
 him not to go on board. At the same time two chiefs, who came 
 along with her, laid hold of him, and insisting that he should go 
 no farther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who were col- 
 lecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably 
 been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the appearances 
 of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and 
 their king. In this situation, the lieutenant of marines observing 
 that his men were huddled close together in the crowd, and thus 
 incapable of using their arms, if any occasion should require iL> 
 
Third Voyage, 357 
 
 proposed to the Captain to draw them up along the rocks close 
 to the water's edge ; and the crowd readily making way for them 
 to pass, they were drawn up in a line at the distance of about 
 thirty yards from the place where the king was sitting. 
 
 All this time the old king remained on the ground with the 
 strongest marks of terror and dejection in his countenance ; 
 Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he 
 had come on shore, continuing to urge him in the most pressing 
 manner to proceed ; whilst on the other hand, whenever the king 
 appeared inclined to follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, 
 interposed, at first with prayers and entreaties, but afterwards 
 having recourse to force and violence, insisted on his staying 
 where he was. Captain Cook, therefore, finding that the alarm 
 had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any 
 longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave up the 
 point, observing to Mr. Phillips, that it would be impossible to 
 compel him to go on board without running the risk of killing a 
 great number of the inhabitants. 
 
 Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on 
 shore had now failed and was abandoned, yet his person did not 
 appear to have been in the least danger, till an accident happened 
 which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, which had been 
 stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes that were 
 attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the 
 first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where 
 Captain Cook was, just as he had left the king and was walking 
 slowly toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very 
 conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent off, 
 and the men put on their war mats, and armed themselves with 
 spears and stones. One of the natives, having in his hands a 
 
358 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 stone and a long iron spike (whicli they called a patiooa), came 
 up to the Captain, flourishing his weapon by way of defiance, 
 and threatening to throw the stone. The Captain desired him to 
 desist, but the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length 
 provoked to fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat 
 on, which the shot was not able to penetrate, this had no other 
 effect than to irritate and encourage them. Several stones were 
 thrown at the marines, and one of the earees attempted to stab 
 Mr. Phillips with his pahooa, but failed in the attempt, and re- 
 ceived from him a blow with the but-end of his musket. Captain 
 Cook now fired his second barrel loaded with ball, and killed one 
 of the foremost of the natives. A general attack with stones 
 immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of 
 musketry from the marines and the people in the boats. The 
 islanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, stood the fire 
 with great firmness ; and before the marines had time to reload, 
 they broke in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What 
 followed was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion. 
 
 Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in their 
 retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more 
 were dangerously wounded, and the lieutenant, who had received 
 a stab between the shoulders with a pahooa, having fortunately 
 reserved his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he 
 was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate commander, the 
 last time he was seen distinctly, was standing at the water's edge, 
 and calling out to the boats to cease firing and to pull in. Whilst 
 he faced the natives none of them had offered him any violence, 
 but having turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was 
 stabbed in the back and fell with his face into the water. On 
 seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his body 
 
Third Voyage. 359 
 
 "Vas immediately dragged on shore, and surrounded by the enemy, 
 who, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a 
 savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. 
 
 Thus fell our great and excellent commander! 
 
 After a life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise, 
 his death, as far as regards himself, cannot be reckoned prema- 
 ture, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems 
 to have been designed, and was rather removed from the enjoy- 
 ment, than cut off from the acquisition of glory * How sincerely 
 his loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long found 
 their general security in his skill and conduct, and every conso- 
 lation under their hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it 
 is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe, much less 
 shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were struck, 
 and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dread- 
 ful and unexpected a calamity. 
 
 It has been already related that four of the marines who 
 attended Captain Cook were killed by the islanders on the spot. 
 The rest, with Mr. Phillips their lieutenant, threw themselves 
 into the water and escaped, under cover of a smart fire from the 
 boats. On this occasion a remarkable instance of gallant be- 
 haviour, and of affection for his men, was shown by that of&cer. 
 For he had scarcely got into the boat, when seeing one of the 
 mariaes, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in the water, and 
 in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped 
 into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself, 
 
 * So too may with truth be asserted of Sir Jolm Franklin ; he had finished 
 the great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was the first to dis- 
 cover a north-west passage. 
 
360 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 and after receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had 
 nearly sent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair 
 and brought him safe off. 
 
 As soon as the general consternation which the news of this 
 calamity occasioned throughout both crews had a little subsided, 
 their attention was called to our party at the moral, where the 
 mast and sails were on shore, with a guard of only six marines. 
 It is impossible for me to describe the emotions of my own mind, 
 during the time these transactions had been carrying on at the 
 other side of the bay. Being at the distance only of a short mile 
 from the village of Kowrowa, we could see distinctly an immense 
 crowd collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before 
 landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could perceive 
 some extraordinary bustle and agitation in the multitude. We 
 afterwards saw the natives flying, the boats retire from the shore, 
 and passing and repassing, in great stillness, between the ships. 
 I must confess that my heart soon misgave me. Where a life so 
 dear and valuable was concerned, it was impossible not to be 
 alarmed by appearances both new and threatening. 
 
 My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was to assure 
 the people, who were assembled in considerable numbers round 
 the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss 
 with ourselves how to account for what they had seen and heard, 
 that they should not be molested ; and that, at all events, I was 
 desirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them. We re- 
 mained in this posture till the boats had returned on board, when 
 Captain Clerke, observing through his telescope that we were sur- 
 rounded by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack 
 us, ordered two four pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately 
 these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave the 
 
Third Voyage. 361 
 
 natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls 
 broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party of 
 them were sitting ; and the other shivered a rock that stood in 
 an exact line with them. As I had just before given them the 
 strongest assurances of their safety, I was exceedingly mortified 
 at this act of hostility, and, to prevent a repetition of it, imme- 
 diately despatched a boat to acquaint Captain Gierke that at 
 present I was on the most friendly terms with the natives, and 
 that, if occasion should hereafter arise for altering my conduct 
 toward them I would hoist a jack as a signal for him to afford 
 us all the assistance in his power. 
 
 We expected the return of the boat with the utmost im- 
 patience, and after remaining a quarter of an hour under the 
 most torturing anxiety and suspense, our fears were at length 
 confirmed by the arrival of Mr. Bligh with orders to strike the 
 tents as quickly as possible, and to send the sails that were re- 
 pairing on board. Just at the same moment, our friend Kaireekeea, 
 having also received intelligence of the death of Captain Cook 
 from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, 
 came to me with great sorrow and dejection in his countenance 
 to inquire if it was true. 
 
 Our situation was at this time extremely critical and im- 
 portant. Not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, 
 and the return of at least one of the ships, being involved in the 
 same common danger. We had the mast of the " Eesolution " 
 and the greatest part of our sails on shore, under the protection 
 of only six marines — their loss would have been irreparable ; 
 and though the natives had not as yet shown the smallest 
 disposition to molest us, yet it was impossible to answer for the 
 alteration which the news of the transaction at Kowrowa might 
 
362 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 produce. I therefore thouglit it prudent to dissemble my belief 
 of the death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to dis- 
 courage the report, lest either the fear of our resentment, or the 
 successful example of their countrymen, might lead them to 
 seize the favourable opportunity which at this time offered 
 itself of giving us a second blow. 
 
 Having placed the marines on the top of the moral, which 
 formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the command 
 with Mr. Bligh, giving him the most positive directions to act 
 entirely on the defensive, I went on board the " Discovery,'' in 
 order to represent to Captain Clerke the dangerous situation of 
 our affairs. As soon as I quitted the spot the natives began to 
 annoy our people with stones, and I had scarcely reached the 
 ship before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore re- 
 turned instantly on shore, where I found things growing every 
 moment more alarming. The natives were arming and putting 
 on their mats, and their numbers increased very fast I could 
 also perceive several large bodies marching towards us along 
 the cliff which separates the viUage of Kakooa from the north 
 side of the bay, where the village of Kowrowa is situated. 
 
 They began at first to attack us with stones from behind the 
 walls of their inclosures, and finding no resistance on our part, 
 they soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows having crept 
 along the beach under cover of the rocks, suddenly made their 
 appearance at the foot of the moral, with a design, as it seemed, 
 of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only acces- 
 sible part, and were not dislodged till after they had stood a 
 considerable number of shot, and seen one of their party fall. 
 
 About this time, a strong reinforcement from both ships 
 having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls ; which 
 
Third Voyage, 363 
 
 giving me easy access to our friendly priests, I sent one of them 
 to endeavour to bring their countrymen to some terms, and to 
 propose to them that if they would desist from throwing stones 
 I would not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, 
 and we were suffered to launch the mast and carry off the sails 
 and our astronomical apparatus unmolested. As soon as we had 
 quitted the moral they took possession of it, and some of them 
 threw a few stones, but without doing us any mischief. 
 
 It was half an hour past eleven o'clock when I got on board 
 the "Discovery,*' where I found no decisive plan had been 
 adopted for our future proceedings. The restitution of the 
 boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook, were the 
 objects which, on all hands, we agreed to insist on ; and it was 
 my opinion that some vigorous steps should be taken, in case the 
 demand of them was not immediately complied with. However, 
 after mature deliberation, it was determined to accomplish these 
 points by conciliatory measures if possible. 
 
 In pursuance of this plan, it was determined that I should 
 proceed toward the shore with the boats of both ships, well 
 manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a parley, 
 and, if possible, to obtain a conference with some of the chiefs. 
 
 I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon, and as 
 we approached the shore I perceived every indication of a hostile 
 reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion, the women 
 and children retiring, the men putting on their war-mats, and 
 arming themselves with long spears and daggers. Concluding, 
 therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be 
 in vain unless I first gave them some ground for mutual con- 
 fidence, I ordered the armed boats to stop, and went on in the 
 small boat alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a 
 
364 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 general cry of joy from tlie natives, I had the satisfaction to find 
 was instantly understood. The women immediately returned 
 from the side of the hill whither they had retired, the men threw 
 off their mats, and all sat down together by the water-side, ex- 
 tending their arms, and inviting me to come on shore. 
 
 Though this behaviour was very expressive of a friendly dis- 
 position, yet I could not help entertaining some suspicions of its 
 sincerity. But when I saw Koah with a boldness and assurance 
 altogether unaccountable, swimming off toward the boat with a 
 white flag in his hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark 
 of confidence, and therefore received him into the boat, though 
 armed ; a circumstance which did not tend to lessen my sus- 
 picions. I must confess I had long harboured an unfavourable 
 opinion of this man. I told him that I had come to demand the 
 body of Captain Cook, and to declare war against them unless it 
 was instantly restored. He assured me that this should be done 
 as soon as possible, and that he would go himself for that pur- 
 pose ; and after begging of me a piece of iron, with as much 
 assurance as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped 
 into the sea and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen 
 that we were all friends again. 
 
 We waited near an hour with great anxiety for his return ; 
 during which time the rest of the boats had approached so near 
 the shore as to enter into conversation with a party of the 
 natives at some distance from us ; by whom they were plainly 
 given to understand that the body had been cut to pieces, and 
 carried up the country ; but of this circumstance I was not in- 
 formed till our return to the ships. 
 
 After various delays, negotiations, and hostile preparations, 
 about eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard pad- 
 
Third Voyage, 365 
 
 filing toward the ship ; and as soon as it was seen, both the sen- 
 tinels on deck fired into it. There were two persons in the 
 canoe, and they immediately roared out " Tinnee" (which was 
 the way in which they pronounced my name), and said they 
 were friends, and had something for me belonging to Captain 
 Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at our 
 feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of 
 them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had 
 gone through the canoe. One of them was the person who con- 
 stantly attended Captain Cook with the circumstances of ceremony 
 already described ; and who, though a man of rank in the island, 
 could scarcely be hindered from performing for him the lowest 
 offices of a menial servant. After lamenting with abundance of 
 tears the loss of the Orono, he told us that he had brought us a 
 part of his body. He then presented to us a small bundle 
 wrapped up in cloth, which he brought imder his arm ; and it is 
 impossible to describe the horror which seized us on finding in 
 it a piece of human flesh about nine or ten pounds weight. This, 
 he said, was all that remained of the body ; that the rest was cut 
 to pieces and burnt ; but that the head and all the bones, except 
 what belonged to the trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo. 
 and the other earees ; that what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, 
 the chief of the priests, to be made use of in some religious 
 ceremony, and that he had sent it as a proof of his innocence 
 and attachment to us. 
 
 This afforded an opportunity of informing ourselves whether 
 they were cannibals, and we did not neglect it. They imme- 
 diately showed as much horror at the idea as any European 
 would have done, and asked, very naturally, if that was the 
 custom amongst us. They afterwards asked us, with great 
 
366 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 earnestness and apparent apprehension, " When the Orono would 
 come again, and what he would do to them on his return?" 
 The same inquiiy was frequently made afterwards by others ; 
 and this idea agrees with the general tenor of their conduct 
 towards him, which showed that they considered him as a being 
 of a superior nature. 
 
 We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till 
 morning, but in vain. They told us that if this transaction 
 should come to the knowledge of the king or chiefs it might be 
 attended with the most fatal consequences to their whole society ; 
 in order to prevent which, they had been obliged to come off to 
 us in the dark, and the same precaution would be necessary in 
 returning on shore. They informed us farther that the chiefs 
 were eager to revenge the deaths of their countrymen, and parti- 
 cularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, they said, was 
 our mortal and implacable enemy, and desired nothing more 
 ardently than an opportunity of fighting us. 
 
 We learned from these men that seventeen of their country- 
 men were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were 
 chiefs ; and that Kaneena and his brother, o.ur very particular 
 friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, 
 were killed at the observatory, three of whom were also of the 
 first rank. 
 
 During the remainder of this night, we heard loud howling 
 and lamentations. Early in the morning we received another 
 visit from Koah. I must confess I was a little piqued to find 
 that, notwithstanding the most evident marks of treachery in his 
 conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends the priests, he 
 should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and to make 
 us appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy. Indeed our situation 
 
Third Voyage, 367 
 
 was become extremely awkward and unpromising ; none of the 
 purposes for which this pacific course of proceeding had been 
 adopted having hitherto been in the least forwarded by it. 
 
 This day a man had the audacity to come within musket-shot 
 ahead of the ship, and after flinging some stones at us, he waved 
 Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on shore 
 were exulting and encouraging his boldness. Our people were 
 all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a body on the quarter- 
 deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with 
 these repeated provocations, and requested me to obtain per- 
 mission for them from Captain Clerke to avail themselves of the 
 first fair occasion of revenging the death of their commander. 
 On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for 
 some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore, and promised 
 the crew, that if they should meet with any molestation at the 
 watering-place the next day, they should then be left at liberty 
 to chastise them. 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable, that before we could bring our guns 
 to bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions from the stir 
 they saw in the ship, and had retired behind their houses and 
 walls. We were therefore obliged to fire in some measure at 
 random ; notwithstanding which, our shots produced all the 
 effects that could have been desired; for soon after, we saw 
 Koah paddling toward us with extreme haste, and on his arrival 
 we learned that some people had been killed, and amongst the 
 rest Maiha-maiha, a principal chief, and a near relation to the 
 king. 
 
 At night the usual precautions were taken for the security of 
 the ships ; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had 
 visited us the night before, came off again. They assured us, 
 
368 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 that though the effect of our great guns this afternoon had 
 terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside 
 their hostile intentions, and advised us to he on our guard. 
 
 The next morning the boats of both ships were sent ashore 
 for water; and the "Discovery" was warped close to the beach, 
 in order to cover that service. "We soon found that the intelligence 
 which the priests had sent us was not without foundation, and 
 that the natives were resolved to take " every opportunity of 
 annoying us, when it could be done without much risk. 
 
 Throughout all this group of islands, the villages, for the 
 most part, are situated near the sea, and the adjacent ground is 
 enclosed with stone walls, about three feet high. They consist 
 of loose stones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in shift- 
 ing them with great quickness to such situations as the direction 
 of the attack may require. In the sides of the mountain which 
 hangs over the bay, they have also little holes or caves, of con- 
 siderable depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of 
 the same kind. From behind both these defences the natives 
 kept perpetually harassing our waterers with stones ; nor could 
 the small force we had on shore, with the advantage of muskets, 
 compel them to retreat. 
 
 In this, exposed situation our people were so taken up in 
 attending to their own safety, that they employed the whole fore- 
 noon in filling only one ton of water. As it was therefore im- 
 possible to perform this service tiU their assailants were driven 
 to a greater distance, the " Discovery " was ordered to dislodge 
 them with her great guns ; which being effected by a few dis- 
 charges, the men landed without molestation. However, the 
 natives soon after made their appearance again in their usual 
 mode of attack ; and it was now found absolutely necessary to 
 
Third Voyage. 369 
 
 bum down some straggling houses near the wall, behind which 
 they had taken shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to 
 add, that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty 
 and devastation. 
 
 Their orders were only to burn a few straggling huts which 
 afforded shelter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal 
 surprised to see the whole village on fire ; before a boat, that was 
 sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the shore, 
 the houses of our old and constant friends, the priests, were all 
 in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me 
 on board this day. The priests had always been under my 
 protection. 
 
 Several of the natives were shot in making their escape 
 from the flames ; and our people cut off the heads of two of 
 them and brought them on board. The fate of one poor islander 
 was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well 
 for water, he was shot at by pne of the marines. The ball struck 
 his calibash, which he immediately threw from him and fled. 
 He was pursued into one of the caves I have before described, 
 and no lion could have defended his den with gi'eater courage and 
 fierceness, till at last, after having kept two of our people at bay 
 for a considerable time, he expired covered with wounds. 
 
 Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down 
 the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces 
 of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, etc., in their hands. As 
 they approached nearer, it was found to be our much esteemed 
 friend Kaireekeea, who had fled on our first setting fire to the 
 village, and had now returned, and desired to be sent on board 
 the " Eesolution." 
 
 When he arrived we found him exceedingly grave and 
 
 2b 
 
370 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him understand the 
 necessity we were under of setting fire to the village, by which 
 his house, and those of his brethren, were unintentionally con- 
 sumed. He expostulated a little with us on our want of friend- 
 ship, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it was not till now 
 that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. 
 He told us that, relying on the promises 1 had made them, and 
 the assurances they had afterwards received from the men who 
 had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not 
 removed their effects back into the country, with the rest of the 
 inhabitants, but had put everything that was valuable of their 
 own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a house 
 close to the moral, where they had the mortification to see it all 
 set on fire by ourselves. 
 
 On coming on board he had seen the heads of his country- 
 men lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, 
 and desired with great earnestness that they might be thrown 
 overboard. This request Captain Clerke instantly ordered to be 
 complied with. 
 
 In the evening the watering party returned on board, having 
 met with no further interruption. We passed a gloomy night, the 
 cries and lamentations we heard on shore being far more dread- 
 ful than ever. Our only consolation was, the hope that we should 
 have no occasion in future for a repetition of such severities. 
 
 The natives being at last convinced that it was not the want 
 of ability to punish them which had hitherto made us tolerate 
 their provocations, desisted from giving us any farther molestation ; 
 and in the evening, a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited 
 us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very first consequence, 
 came with presents from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These 
 
Third Voyage. 371 
 
 presents were received, and lie was dismissed with the same 
 answer which had before been given, that until the remains of 
 Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would be granted. 
 We learned from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies of 
 our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt ; 
 that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongst the 
 inferior chiefs ; and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed 
 of in the following manner : — The head to a great chief called 
 Kahoo-opeon, the hair to Maiha-maiha, and the legs, thighs, and 
 arms to Terreeoboo. 
 
 Between ten and eleven o'clock on the 20th, we saw a great 
 number of people descending the hill which is over the beach, in 
 a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his 
 shoulders, and bread-fruit, taro, and plantains in his hand. They 
 were preceded by two drummers, who, when they came to the 
 waterside, sat down by a white flag, and began to beat their 
 drums, while those who had followed them advanced one by one ; 
 and having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in 
 the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long 
 feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his 
 hands ; and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for 
 a boat to be sent him. 
 
 Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of 
 Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the 
 pinnace to receive them ; and ordered me to attend him in the 
 cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the 
 pinnace, and delivered to the Captain the bones wrapped up in 
 a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted 
 cloak of black and white feathers. He afterwards attended us to 
 the " Eesolution, " but could not be prevailed upon to go on 
 
372 Cook^s Voyages. 
 
 board ; probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be pre- 
 sent at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the 
 hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from 
 a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from 
 the forefinger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the 
 skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones that 
 form the face wanting ; the scalp with the hair upon it cut short, 
 and the ears adhering to it ; the bones of both arms, with the 
 skin of the forearms hanging to them ; the thigh and leg bones 
 joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints 
 were entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of having been 
 in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, 
 and were cut in several places, and crammed with salt, apparently 
 with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in 
 the back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. 
 The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us had 
 been seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using 
 every means to recover them. 
 
 The next morning Eappo and the king's son came on board, 
 and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook ; 
 the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that be- 
 longed to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us that 
 Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha,and himself, were most heartily desirous 
 of peace ; that they had given us the most convincing proof of 
 it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving 
 it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our 
 enemies. We found the cutter had been broken up. 
 
 Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our 
 great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with 
 orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon, the bones having 
 
Third Voyage, 373 
 
 been put into a cofi&n, and the service read over them, they were 
 committed to the deep with the usual military honours. What 
 our feelings were on this occasion, I leave the world to conceive ; 
 those who were present know that it is not in my power to 
 express them. 
 
 During the forenoon of the 2 2d, not a canoe was seen pad- 
 dling in the bay ; the taboo, which Eappo had laid on it the 
 day before, at our request, not being yet taken off. At length 
 Eappo came off to us. We assured him that we were now 
 entirely satisfied ; and that as the Orono was buried, all remem- 
 brance of what had passed was buried with him. We afterwards 
 desired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known that the 
 people might bring their provisions as usual. The ships were 
 soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on 
 board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their . 
 satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did 
 not visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. 
 Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was refused 
 admittance. 
 
 As we had now everything ready for sea, about 'eight o'clock 
 this evening we dismissed all the natives ; Eappo, and the 
 friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We imme- 
 diately weighed and stood out of the bay. The natives were 
 collected on the shore in great numbers ; and as we passed along, 
 received our last farewells with every mark of affection and 
 good-will. 
 
 As every minute particular regarding the death of Captain Cook, and 
 of the events which led to it, is of the deepest interest, the Editor, at the 
 risk of repetition, subjoins an extract from the remarks of Captain Clerke, 
 who succeeded to the command of the expedition, written at the time on 
 
374 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 board the " Resolution, " and obtained from the Records of the Admiralty. 
 They will be found to corroborate the account given of this lamentable 
 transaction by Captain King. 
 
 "remarks on board his majesty's sloop the ^resolution' at 
 oiohy'he. 
 
 ^' Sunday y lAih February 1779. 
 "Ever since our arrival here, upon this our second visit, we have observed 
 in the natives a stronger propensity to theft than we had reason to complain 
 of during our former stay ; every day produced more numerous and niore 
 audacious depredations. To-day they behaved so ill on board the ' Discovery,' 
 that I was obliged to order them all out of the ship, which I find was likewise 
 the case on board the * Resolution.' None but the principal people were suf- 
 fered on board. However, we let them lay alongside in their canoes, and 
 amuse themselves as they thought proper. In the afternoon, I had a present 
 of a cloak and a hog from Terri'aboo, who, with his retinue, made me a 
 visit. In the evening they left the ship, and soon after a principal aree, whose 
 name was Per'rare, called on board. During my stay in the cabin with them, 
 a rascal by some means got up the ship's side, ran across the deck in the face 
 of everybody there, snatched the armourer's tongs, together with a chisel, and 
 jumped overboard. This was done so instantaneously, that the fellow was in 
 the water before our people well saw what the fellow was about. A canoe 
 immediately took him in, and made for shore. I heard the alarm, ran upon 
 deck, and, being made acquainted with the business, ordered the people to fire at 
 them. At the same time, Mr. Edgar, the Master, put off in the small cutter, 
 in chase of the canoe, which was presently out of the reach of our muskets. 
 However, as I saw the * Resolution's ' pinnace join the chase, and Captain 
 Cook run along shore to intercept the fellow's landing, I concluded it impos- 
 sible for him to escape all ; and the closing of the evening preventing a 
 farther prospect of the business, I was very easy, expecting soon to have 
 the boat back, with the tongs, etc. ; but it was near eight before Mr. Edgar 
 returned, and then with such a story as I was a good deal hurt at. In the 
 first place, Captain Cook was led altogether out of the way by those who 
 undertook to be his guides. The pinnace and cutter pursued and ran the 
 canoe where the culprit had taken refuge on shore, when the stolen goods 
 were brought off and returned them ; but Mr. Edgar, thinking some 
 punishment ought to be inflicted for such infamous conduct, he seized the 
 canoe which brought off the thief. The boat happened to be that of 
 Per'rare's that had brought him on board, and was waiting his pleasure 
 whilst he was with me in the cabin. This looks very suspicious in Mi. 
 
Third Voyage, 375 
 
 Per'rare ; but if lie did give countenance to these thefts, he added shameful 
 ingratitude to his perfidy, for I had at various times been very attentive 
 and liberal to him. However, he left me soon after the theft had been 
 committed, with a promise of a speedy return with the plunder, which, to 
 do him justice, he had frequently in these cases retrieved for me. He 
 reached the shore as soon as our boat, when, finding his own canoe in 
 danger, he strenuously opposed the seizure, and soon raised too numerous 
 a mob for our boat's crew to deal with ; who not readily giving up their 
 capture, were warmly attacked by Per'rare and his gang he had mustered, 
 with stones, clubs, etc. It unlbrtunately happened that both the boats 
 were destitute of fire-arms (our friendly connections having lulled us into 
 too great security), and of course had nothing more than equal weapons to 
 repel this attack, the consequence of which was a defeat, being overpowered 
 by numbers ; and after receiving many hai'd thumps, were glad to get their 
 own boats off, with half their oars broke, lost, etc. This was an unfortunate 
 stroke as matters now stood, as it increased the confidence of these people, 
 which before was too much bordering upon insolence. 
 
 " In the morning, at daybreak. Lieutenant Burney, who was the ofl&cer 
 of the watch, acquainted me that the large cutter was taken from the buoy 
 where we had moored and sunk her, to prevent the heat of the sun, which 
 is very powerful, from renting the plank. Upon examining part of her 
 moorings that was left upon the buoy, and was a four inch rope, I found 
 plainly that it had been cut by some instrument or other, which clearly 
 evinced she must have been taken away by the Indians, with which cir- 
 cumstance I directly waited upon Captain Cook, and made him acquainted ; 
 and, after some conversation on the subject, he proposed that his boats 
 should go to the N. "W. point of the bay, and mine to the S. E. point, to 
 prevent any canoe going away, and if any attempted it, to drive them on 
 shore ; for he said he would seize them all, and made no doubt but to re- 
 deem them they would very readily return the boat again. It was now 
 between six and seven o'clock in the morning. I retuined on board to put 
 these orders into execution, and sent Lieutenant Eickman with the launch 
 and small cutter, with their crews and some marines, well armed, to the 
 station Captain Cook had assigned them. I soon after took the jolly boat 
 (which now was the only boat I had left), and came to the ' Eesolution,' 
 with an intention of having some more discourse with Captain Cook upon 
 this business ; but when I came near the ship, Lieutenant Gore told me 
 that Captain Cook was gone with his pinnace, launch, and small cutter, to 
 a town situated just within the N. W. point, where King Terre'boo and the 
 major part of the people of consequence then resided, upon which I re- 
 turned to my ship, concluding, as Captain Cook was gone to the king, 
 matters would soon be settled, for we were as yet by no means on bad 
 
376 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 terms either witli arees or anybody else. There were at this time many 
 small canoes trading about the ships. Soon after I got on board, I observed 
 some muskets discharged from my launch and small cutter, upon which 1 
 sent the jolly boat to know how matters went, and orders to Lieutenant 
 Rickman, if he had made any seizures of canoes, to send them to the ship 
 by the jolly boat. 
 
 " It was now just eight o'clock, when we were alarmed by the discharge 
 of a volley of small arms from Captain Cook's people, and a violent shout 
 of the Indians. "With my glass I clearly saw that our people were drove 
 off to their boats, but I could not distinguish persons in that confused 
 crowd. The pinnace and launch, however, continued the fire, and the 
 ' Resolution,' who was near enough to throw her shot on shore, fired her 
 cannon among them. Thus circumstanced, without any boat to go to their 
 assistance, and, consequently, destitute of all means of rendering them any 
 kind of service, I was obliged to wait the return of these engaged boats to 
 hear the event of these unhappy differences. The crews having fired away 
 their ammunition, returned to the ' Resolution,' and Lieutenant Williamson, 
 who commanded them upon this duty, soon after came on board the 
 'Discovery' with the melancholy account that Captain Cook and four 
 marines had fallen in this confounded fray, and that the rest of the marines 
 who were on shore were with difficulty saved, three of whom were much 
 wounded, particularly Mr. Phillips, the lieutenant, who was a good deal 
 bruised by blows of stones, and had received a deep stab with an iron pike 
 in his shoulder. I immediately went on board the ' Resolution,' sent a 
 strong party of people to protect the astronomers at their tents, and car- 
 penters who were at work upon the mast on the eastern side of the bay, 
 and received from Lieutenant Phillips, who, with his marines, was on 
 shore and present throughout the whole with Captain Cook, the following 
 account : — 
 
 " ' Captain Cook landed at the town situated within the N. W. point 
 with his pinnace and launch, leaving the small cutter off the point to pre- 
 vent the escape of any canoes that might be disposed to get off. At his 
 landing, he ordered nine marines, which he had in the boats, and myself 
 on shore to attend him, and immediately marched into the town, where he 
 inquired for Terre'aboo and the two boys (his sons, who had lived princi- 
 pally with Captain Cook on board the ' Resolution' since Terre'aboo's first 
 arrival among us). Messengers were immediately dispatched, and the two 
 boys soon came, and conducted us to their father's house. After waiting 
 some time on the outside. Captain Cook doubted the old gentleman being 
 there, and sent me in that I might inform him. I found our old 
 acquaintance just awoke from sleep ; when, upon my acquainting him that 
 Captain Cook was at the door, he very readily went with me to him. 
 
Third Voyage. 277 
 
 Captain Cook, after some little conversation, observed that Terre'aboo was 
 quite innocent of what had happened, and proposed to the old gentleman 
 to go on board with him, which he readily agreed to, and we accordingly- 
 proceeded toward the boats, but having advanced near to the water side, an 
 elderly woman, whose name was Kar'na'cub'ra, one of his •v\T.ves, came to 
 him, and with many tears and entreaties, begged he would not go on board ; 
 at the same time, two chiefs laid hold of him, and insisting that he should 
 not, made him sit down : the old man now appeared dejected and frightened. 
 It was at this period we first began to suspect that they were not very well 
 disposed towards us, and the marines being huddled together in the midst 
 of an immense mob, composed of at least two or three thousand people, I 
 proposed to Captain Cook that they might be arranged in order along the 
 rocks by the water side, which he approving of, the crowd readily made 
 way for them, and they were dra\vn up accordingly. We now clearly saw 
 they were collecting their spears, etc. ; but an awful rascal of a priest was 
 singing and making a ceremonious oflFering to the Captain and Terre'aboo, 
 to divert their attention from the manoeuvres of the surrounding multitude. 
 Captain Cook now gave up all thoughts of taking Terre'aboo on board, with 
 the following observations to me — ' We can never think of compelling him 
 to go on board without killiag a number of these people,' and I believe 
 was just going to give orders to embark, when he was interrupted by a 
 fellow armed with a long iron spike, which they call a pah'hoo'ah, and a 
 stone. This man made a flourish with his pah'hoo'ah, and threatened to 
 throw his stone, upon which Captain Cook discharged a load of small shot 
 at him ; but he having his mat on, the small shot did not penetrate it, and 
 had no other effect than farther to provoke and encourage them. I could 
 not observe the least fright it occasioned. Immediately upon this an aree, 
 armed with a pah'hoo'ah, attempted to stab me, but I foiled his attempt by 
 giving him a severe blow with the but end of my musket. Just at this 
 time they began to throw stones, and one of the marines was knocked down. 
 The Captain then fired a ball and killed a man. They now made a general 
 attack, and the Captain gave orders to the marines to fire, and afterwards 
 called out, ' Take to the boats.' I fired just after the Captain, and loaded 
 again whilst the marines fired. Almost instantaneously upon my repeating 
 the orders to take to the boats, I was knocked down by a stone, and in 
 rising received a stab with a pah'hoo'ah in the shoulder ; my antagonist 
 was upon the point of seconding his blow, when I shot him dead. The 
 busuiees now was a most miserable scene of confusion. The shouts and 
 yells of the Indians far exceeded all the noise I ever came in the way of. 
 These fellows, instead of retiring upon being fired upon, as Captain Cook 
 and I believe most people concluded they would, acted so very contrary a 
 part, that they never gave the soldiers time to re-load their pieces, but 
 
378 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 immediately broke in upon and would have killed every man of them, had 
 not the boats by a smart fire kept them a little oft^ and picked up those 
 who were not too much wounded to reach them. After being knocked down 
 I saw no more of Captain Cook. All my people I observed were totally 
 vanquished, and endeavouring to save their lives by getting to the boats. 
 I therefore scrambled as well as I could into the water, and made for the 
 pinnace, which T fortunately got hold of, but not before I received another 
 blow from a stone just above the temple, which, had not the pinnace been 
 very near, would have sent me to the bottom.' This is the substance of 
 Lieutenant Phillips' relation of this most unfortunate event, to which I 
 must add one circumstance more in justice to his gallantry and attention. 
 He had not been many minutes in the boat, and of course scarcely recovered 
 from the disagreeable sensations occasioned by the pah'hoo'ah and stones, 
 when he saw one of his marines, who was but a very poor swimmer, and 
 now farther disabled by wounds, just upon the point of sinking. He imme- 
 diately jumped overboard again, caught the man by his hair, and brought 
 him to the boat. Far the major part of these pah'hoo'ahs, with which 
 many of the arees are now armed, and is their most deadly weapon, were 
 furnished them by ourselves. The arees always seemed very desirous of 
 them, and we troubled ourselves very little about the use they proposed 
 them for. Old Terre'aboo got two from Captain Cook, and one from me, 
 no longer than yesterday eveuing. Some time before the attack was made, 
 intelligence was brought from the other side of the bay that the boats there, 
 under the command of Lieutenant Rickman, had killed a man who was 
 somewhat of an aree, which our people observed in some degree to dis- 
 concert them, but this was some time before they proceeded to violent 
 measures. How the unhappy business was brought about is very hard to 
 determine ; to all appearance it was by no means a premeditated plan. On 
 the part of Terre'aboo, if we consider his conduct throughout, we must 
 acquit him of any bad intentions. His son, the young prince Ka'oo'ah, was 
 sitting in the pinnace with Mr. Roberts, one of the mates (who then com- 
 manded her), with intention of coming off to the ship, at the time the first 
 gun was fired by Captain Cook. The poor boy said he was frightened, and 
 begged to be put on shore, which was immediately complied with. As to 
 their being armed with their pah'hoo'ahs it was always the case ; those 
 who had them were so proud of the acquisition, that they never went any- 
 where without them ; and as to their stones, nature has furnished them 
 most abundantly in every part of their country. Upon the whole, I firmly 
 believe matters would not have been carried to the extremities they were, 
 had not Captain Cook attempted to chastise a man in the midst of this 
 multitude, firmly believing, as his last resource in case of necessity, that 
 the fire of his marines would undoubtedly disperse them. This idea was 
 
Third Voyage, 379 
 
 certainly founded upon great experience among various nations of Indians, 
 in different parts of the world, but the unhappy event of to-day proved it 
 in this case, however, fallacious. One very strong argument that they 
 would not have proceeded thus had not Captain Cook first unfortunately 
 fired, is, that but a very few minutes before the fray began, they readily 
 cleared a way for the marines to march down to the water side, just by 
 where the boats lay (as I have observed), had Captain Cook then been dis- 
 posed to go off. Mr. Phillips is of opinion, from all appearance at that 
 time, they would have given him no interruption. Now, had they been pre- 
 viously determined upon the ensuing business, the attack upon the marines 
 would have been made with more safety to themselves, and efficacy to their 
 cause, when in the midst of the mob than when they were properly drawn 
 up ; this wa3 too obvious an advantage to escape their sagacity. As to 
 their collecting their spears, etc., as ^Ir. Phillips observed, some time previous 
 to the attack, he is of opinion, and I think very justly, that this arose from 
 an apprehension that some force might be used in getting Terre'aboo to the 
 ship, which I believe they were determined to oppose to the last extremity. 
 However, be these matters as they may, the unfortunate business was now 
 done, and it behoved me to take the most effectual method I could suggest to 
 prevent more. As I before observed, I sent a strong party of people, which 
 were commanded by Lieutenant King, to the eastern side of the bay to de- 
 fend the astronomers and the carpenters at work upon the fore-mast. I 
 soon observed a vast concourse of the natives assembling near them, when 
 by a spring upon the 'Discovery's' cable, I was enabled to throw her four- 
 pounders about their quarters, being well within distance, which in a great 
 measure dispersed the association ; but I could not do it effectually, they 
 had such retreats behind a number of stone walls with which their villages 
 and all parts adjacent abound, and which I now suppose are purposed as a 
 place of retirement when annoyed by the enemy. The vast numbers of 
 people I observed collecting in various parts of the bay, and the resolution 
 they had displayed in the attack, as represented by the Lieutenants William- 
 son and Phillips, rendered them, I thought, rather a formidable enemy, and 
 that the safest and best method we could take would be to get everything 
 from the shore to the ships, where we could work at our leisure, and they 
 could not possibly annoy us without inevitable destruction to themselves. 
 I therefore ordered the observatories and fore-mast to be got off with all 
 expedition. I make no doubt but we might have protected these matters 
 on shore with a good stout party, but they would have been continually 
 harassed, and the work impeded ; and had any unlucky accident gained 
 them the possession of the fore-mast, though only for a few minutes, we 
 should have been totally ruined in respect to another Northern campaign, 
 which is certainly now my principal object to forward. Our party on 
 
380 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 shore, under Lieutenant King, were arranged on an eminence that the 
 natives had thrown up for a morai, which gave them great advantages, as 
 they commanded every thing around them ; the Indians, however, made 
 two or three attacks with stones thrown from slings, but they were imme- 
 diately repulsed with the loss, in the whole, of ten or twelve men ; indeed 
 they could not collect themselves to a formidable body for the fire of the 
 'Discovery.' By noon we had got aU our men and other matters on board 
 and the fore-mast alongside : with our glasses we could clearly see the 
 Indians busied in conveying the dead bodies over a hill up the country, 
 I cannot here help lamenting my own unhappy state of health, which is 
 sometimes so bad as hardly to suffer me to keep the deck, and, of course, 
 farther incapacitates me for the succeeding so able a navigator as my hon- 
 oured friend and predecessor ; however, here are very able officers, and I 
 trust, with a firm dependence upon Providence, that with their assistance I 
 may be able to prosecute the remaining part of their Lordships' instructions 
 with that zeal and alacrity as may procure me the honour of their appro- 
 bation. The marines who fell with Captain Cook were Corporal Thomas, 
 Theophilus Hinks, John Allan, and Thomas Flabchett ; the lieutenant, 
 Serjeant, and two others wounded. " 
 
 ''^Monday, 15th February 1779. 
 " As there was still a vast concourse of people where this unfortunate 
 fray happened, I had some notion of taking a stout party on shore, make 
 what destruction I could among them, then bum the town, canoes, etc., for 
 I have no doubt but firearms must drive every thing before them when you 
 take room for action ; but the ofiicers who had been present at the fray 
 observed, that though our musquets must in the end prove effectual, such 
 were their numbers, resolution, and advantageous retreats behind these 
 walls, that the attempt would doubtless cost us some, and probably many 
 men ; that we laboured under great disadvantages in landing, which we 
 were there obliged to do upon slippery rocks, where our people with shoes 
 could hardly stand, and they having the fair use of the foot, were perfectly 
 masters of themselves ; upon these considerations, as the loss of a very few 
 men would now be most severely felt by us, I thought it would be im- 
 proper and probably injurious to the expedition to risk farther loss of the 
 people, I therefore determined to turn all endeavours towards forwarding 
 the equipment of the ' Eesolution* as we were now nearly in a tattered 
 condition, and as soon as we were in any tolerable order, if they did not 
 conduct themselves with some degree of propriety, to warp her within a 
 proper distance of the town, and by landing under our own guns, thoroughly 
 convince them that it was to our lenity, not our imbecility, that they owed 
 their safety, so we got our fore-mast into the ship, placed it fore and aft 
 upon the forecastle and quarter deck, and set the carpenters of both ships 
 
Third Voyage. 381 
 
 to work upon it. In the evening I sent the boats of the two ships, well 
 manned and armed, under the command of Lieutenants King and Burney, 
 with a flag of truce, with orders by no means whatever to land, but advance 
 near enough to hold conversation and demand the bodies of our people, 
 particularly Captain Cook's. Upon Mr. King's arrival near the shore, and 
 making known his demands, they appeared quite elate with joy at the 
 prospect of a reconciliation, threw away their slings and mats which were 
 their weapons and armour, extended their arms, and in short seemed happy 
 in suggesting every mode of demonstrating their satisfaction. An old 
 fellow, whose name is Co'ah'ah, with whom we had all along been ac- 
 quainted, with a white flag in his hand, swam off to the small cutter where 
 our flag was, and promised we should have the body of Captain Cook to- 
 morrow, but that it was carried too far up the country to be brought down 
 to-night. These assurances Mr. King likewise received from many other 
 people with whom he conversed by the water side. 
 
 " Mr. Burney was some little distance from Mr. King and talked with 
 difi'erent people. He says he clearly understood from some of them that 
 the body was cut up ; however, from their fair promises, I hoped the 
 morrow would produce it in some state or the other. That we might be 
 as safe as possible from the machinations of these people, I ordered guard 
 boats to row round the ships during the darkness of the night, being under 
 some apprehensions of attempts upon our cables. 
 
 " Tuesday, \^tK February 1779. 
 
 " In the morning old Co'ah'ah made several trips to us in a small canoe 
 with his white flag flying, assisted by only one man, and made many fair 
 promises of the bodies being returned ; he brought off two or three little 
 pigs at different times, which, as he professed so much friendship, and 
 seemed to confide so much in us, I accepted. 
 
 " This evening, just after dark, a priest, whose name was Car'na'care, 
 a friend of Mr. King's, came on board and brought with him a large piece 
 of flesh, which we soon saw to be human, and which he gave us to under- 
 stand was part of the corpse of our late unfortunate Captain ; it was clearly 
 a part of the thigh, about six or eight pounds, without any bone at all. 
 TJie poor fellow told us that all the rest of the flesh had been burnt at 
 different places with some peculiar kind of ceremony, that this had been 
 delivered to him for that purpose, but as we appeared anxious to recover 
 the body, he had brought us all that he could get of it ; he likewise added, 
 that the bones, which was all that now remained, were in the possession of 
 King Terre'aboo. The extraordinary friendship and attention of these 
 priests, since our first arrival amongst them, has been such as we never be- 
 fore met with nor could expect from any Indians, or indeed I believe I may 
 
382 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 say from any nation of people in the world. They abound in the riches 
 of the country, which they deal out with a most liberal hand. Our 
 astronomers and people on shore were fairly kept by them, and they were 
 continually sending presents of hogs, fish, fruit, etc., to both Captain Cook 
 and myself, at the same time were so perfectly disinterested, that it was 
 with diJSiculty we got them to accept of any return at all adequate to their 
 donations. The latter end of January a party was sent up the country to 
 look a little about them. They set out in the evening, and where they 
 halted for the night were overtaken and joined by a man from old Ca'ha ha's, 
 who was the chief-priest, or as we termed him, the bishop. This good old 
 gentleman hearing that some people were gone upon an expedition about 
 the isle, sent this man after them with a general order that they should be 
 supplied with whatever they wanted, wherever they thought proper to 
 travel. This honest fellow, Car'na'care, who I believe is son to the bishopj 
 certainly brought off this flesh with a most friendly intention ; he begs we 
 we will put no kind of trust in the social aspects and promises of his 
 countrymen, for that they do mean and are determined to do us farther 
 mischief if they possibly can. Old Co'ah'ah, he says, they make use of as 
 a spy to examine our condition of defence, etc., having some notion of 
 attacking the ships. Here are clearly party matters subsisting between the 
 laity and the clergy, and in these cases a strict attention to the representa- 
 tion of either, I believe, is generally wide of the truth ; however, we must 
 take care not to lay ourselves so open as to render it possible for any plan 
 of treachery to reach us ; and as to their attack upon the ships, I should 
 imagine it must turn out to them the most unhappy expedition they ever 
 experienced. After staying on board about two hours, Car'na'care returned 
 to the shore, observing that regard to his safety obliged him to make his 
 visit in the dark, for should it be publicly known they would immediately 
 destroy him. As the command of course now devolved to me, I appointed 
 myself to the 'Eesolution ;' Mr. Gore, the first lieutenant of that ship, to 
 the command of the 'Discovery;' Mr. King the first, Mr. Williamson the 
 second, and Mr. William Harvey, who is now upon his third trip with 
 Captain Cook, to be the third lieutenant of the * Kesolution.' I know 
 nothing of any particular commands of their Lordships in case of vacancies, 
 but have often heard Captain Cook, in private conversation, declare his in- 
 tention of making Mr. Harvey a lieutenant ; and as I am perfectly ignorant 
 of their Lordships' pleasure upon that head, I hope they will approve of 
 my attention and respect to the memory of that great navigator, in acting 
 consistently with his avowed purposes. 
 
 " Wednesday, 17th February 1779. 
 " Early this afternoon an impudent rascal came off from the town, on 
 
Thii'd Voyage. 383 
 
 the north-west point, and having advanced to within 200 yards of the ship, 
 waved a hat to us, which I could clearly distinguish to have been it of 
 Captain Cook's. He then put it upon his head and flung some stones from 
 a sling towards the ship, whilst the vast concourse of people upon the shore 
 were shouting and laughing. This was too gross an insult to bear with 
 any degree of patience. The rascal in his canoe, being right ahead of the 
 ship, soon perceived the people getting into the boat, and made for the 
 shore with too much celerity for us to come near him. I did not fire at 
 him, as it's great odds but he was missed, which would farther show them 
 the fallibility of our arms. However, as he was undoubtedly set on by the 
 people on shore, who were still upon the rocks by the water side, though 
 the ship was too far ofi" to throw the shot with the exactitude I could wish, 
 still we were not quite out of reach, and this multitude being a fine large 
 mark, I fired several of the four-pounders at them, when they dispersed in 
 a great hurry. In the evening two arees came off", and begged we would 
 fire at them no more, and expressed their wishes for peace. I found the 
 great shot had frightened them confoundedly, some having fell among the 
 crowd and wounded a nephew of Terre'aboo's, whose name was Ky'mare'- 
 mare (an old friend of mine), and three or four others, by scattering the 
 splinters of stones among them. We now learnt there were four arees with 
 thirteen men killed, and many others badly wounded in the fray with 
 Captain Cook. In the morning, as I wanted some water, I ordered the 
 * Discovery' as near as convenient to the shore to cover the watering party, 
 and sent the boats of the two ships properly equipped upon that duty, 
 under the commands of the Lieutenants Rickman and Harvey, with orders 
 not to let any of the natives come near them, but by no means to molest 
 them if they did not first give provocation by acting offensively. Very 
 soon after their landing, such was the strange infatuation of these people, 
 notwithstanding they saw everything was clearly against them, they began 
 to throw stones at the party. They, however, had the discretion in general 
 to get behind some houses of a town that was built all along the head of 
 the beach, or upon a high hill under which the well was situate, and from 
 thence roll them down. Some were daring enough to come upon the open 
 beach for the greater convenience of discharging their stones, but five or 
 six of these being killed, put an end to this beach fighting, and they all 
 retired behind the houses, from whence they continued to throw without 
 ceasing, but to very little effect, for there was such a distance that, by a 
 good look-out, they were easily avoided. At noon the boats returned. 
 
 " Thursday, 18th Februarij 1779. 
 
 " In the afternoon the boats returned to the watering business, and, as 
 the natives continued troublesome, we burnt down the town that was at 
 
384 Coo lis Voyages. 
 
 the head of the beach, which deprived them of their principal shelter. 
 The rogues upon the hill continued to roll down stones, and their situation 
 was so elevated we could not possibly annoy them. However, they did 
 us no other harm than somewhat to retard the business, as the people were 
 under a necessity of keeping some look out to avoid the stones. In the 
 evening they were tired of the business ; many of them came to the water- 
 ing party with green boughs and white flags (emblems of peace), and begged 
 we would be friends, promising to give us no farther molestation. They 
 were socially received, and assured of our good offices, if they would con- 
 duct themselves properly. In the morning the parties returned to the 
 watering duty, the natives were civil and attentive, supplying them with 
 fruits, etc. 
 
 ''Friday^ \^ih February \11^. 
 
 " Our good friends the priests still continue their extraordinary attention. 
 and benevolence. They send us many presents of hogs, fruits, etc. By the 
 assistance of these good people, and some poor fellows who came off in the 
 dark and traded, being, as they say, afraid to be seen to hold connection 
 with us, we have all along, except one day, been able to collect roots 
 enough for our own necessary consumption. As to pork, we have 
 abundance. 
 
 ^^ Saturday, 20th February 1779. 
 
 " An aree of distinction came off with two hogs and a large quantity of 
 roots, which he said was a present from Terre'aboo, who, he gave me to 
 imderstand, was very desirous of peace. I told him I had very little 
 objection to peace, but insisted they should first return the remains of 
 Captain Cook, which he promised heartily to do. He took his leave and 
 returned to the shore. About noon E'ar'po came to the beach with abund- 
 ance of attendants, laden with roots and some hogs. I went in the pinnace, 
 and took Mr. King in the cutter, near enough to the shore to hold conver- 
 sation, and demanded the remains of Captain Cook, which he delivered to 
 me very decently wrapped up. I then took him on board, and treated him, 
 with three arees, his friends, socially. I asked him for the remains of the 
 other four people ; but he told me that Captain Cook, being the principal 
 man, he of course became the property of king Terre'aboo ; that the others 
 were taken by various arees, who were now dispersed in different parts of 
 the isle, and that it would be impossible to collect them. I thought this so 
 probable an account, that I said no more upon the subject. 
 
 JSuoiday, 2lst February 1779. 
 " In the evening E'ar'po and his friends returned to the shore. 
 
Third Voyage, 385 
 
 apparently very happy. They gave me an account of their loss of men in 
 our various skirmishes, which amounts to four arees killed and six wounded ; 
 of their people, twenty-five kOled and fifteen wounded. This is the same 
 as I have before heard ; and as it is corroborated, I suppose it is the fast. 
 Upon examining the remains of my late honoured and much-lamented 
 friend, I found all his bones, excepting those of the back, jaw, and feet — the 
 two latter articles E'ar'po brought me in the morning — the former, he de- 
 clared, had been reduced to ashes with the trunk of the body. As Car'na'- 
 care had told us, the flesh was taken from all the bones, excepting those 
 of the hands, the skin of which they had cut through in many places, and 
 salted, with an intention, no doubt, of preserving them. E'ar'po likewise 
 brought with him the two barrels of Captain Cook's gun — the one beat 
 flat, with intention of making a cutting instrument of it ; the other a good 
 deal bent and bruised, together with a present of thirteen hogs from 
 Terre'aboo. The day before it on which this miserable business happened, 
 during the old gentleman's visit, I made him a present of a red cloth cloak, 
 which he desired might be edged with green cloth, and left it on board 
 with me for that purpose, proposing to come for it the next morning ; but 
 these unhappy circumstances falling out, it still remained in my possession, 
 and he now desired E'ar'po to ask me for it, which of course I sent him, 
 with a proper return for his present. I mention this circumstance among 
 many others, to evince how little idea there was of this miserable breach 
 that has happened between us. During the forenoon, I had a visit from 
 the young prince Ka'oo'ah, who, as I have before observed, '\% a son of 
 Terre'aboo's, and of course paid great attention and respect to here by all 
 ranks of people." 
 
 Monday, 1'^d February 1779. 
 
 "This afternoon we have an abundant market for hogs and fruit. Both 
 arees and people now put themselves in our power, without any kind of 
 apprehension. They appear exceedingly desirous of resuming our former 
 confidence and intercourse, and that with so much appearance of sincerity, 
 that had I any point to carry, I think I might put some degree of confi- 
 dence in them with great safety ; but my business is now to get to sea, 
 and quit this group of islands as soon as circumstances will admit me. 
 
 " In the evening I had the remains of Captain Cook committed to the 
 deep, with all the attention and honour we could possibly pay in this part 
 of the world. 
 
 'ilQ 
 
386 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 We now continue the narrative of Captain King : — 
 
 On the 22d we got clear of the land about ten o'clock, and 
 hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward. 
 
 After touching at Woahoo, where it was found watering would 
 have been inconvenient, Captain Clerke determined, without far- 
 ther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. On the 28th we bore 
 away for that island, which we were in sight of by noon ; and 
 about sunset, were off its eastern extremity. 
 
 We had no sooner anchored in our old station, than several 
 canoes came alongside of us ; but we could observe that they did 
 not welcome us with the same cordiality in their manner, and 
 satisfaction in their countenances, as when we were here before. 
 
 Our principal object here was to water the ships with the 
 utmost expedition ; and I was sent on shore early in the 
 afternoon. We found a considerable number of people collected 
 on the beach, who received us at first with great kindness ; but 
 as soon as we had got the casks on shore, began to be exceedingly 
 troublesome. It was with great difficulty I was able to form 
 a circle, according to our usual practice, for the convenience of 
 our trading party, and had no sooner done it, than I saw a man 
 laying hold of the bayonet of one of the soldier's muskets, and 
 endeavouring with all his force to wrench it out of his hand. 
 This fray was occasioned by the latter's having given the man a 
 slight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without 
 the line. 
 
 I now perceived that our situation required great circumspec- 
 tion and management, and accordingly gave the strictest orders 
 that no one should fire, nor have recourse to any other act of 
 violence, without positive commands. As soon as I had given 
 these directions, I was called to the assistance of the watering 
 
Third Voyage, 387 
 
 party, where 1 found the natives equally inclined to mischief. 
 They had demanded from our people a large hatchet for eveiy 
 cask of water, and this not being complied with, they would not 
 suffer the sailors to roll them down to the boats. 
 
 I had no sooner joined them, than one of the natives advanced 
 up to me with great insolence, and made the same claim. I told 
 him that as a friend, I was very willing to present him with a 
 hatchet, but that I should certainly carry off the water without 
 paying anything for it ; and I immediately ordered the pinnace 
 men to proceed in their business, and called three marines from 
 the traders to protect them. 
 
 Though the natives continued for the most part to pay great 
 deference and respect to me, yet they did not suffer me to escape 
 without contributing my share to their stock of plunder. One 
 of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great 
 management diverted my attention, whilst another, wrenching 
 the hanger, which I held carelessly in my hand, from me, ran off 
 with it like lightning. 
 
 It was in vain to think of repelling this insolence by force ; 
 guarding therefore against its effects in the best manner we were 
 able, we had nothing to do but to submit patiently to it. My 
 apprehensions were, however, a little alarmed, by the information 
 I soon after received from the serjeant of marines, who told me 
 that, turning suddenly round, he saw a man behind me holding 
 a dagger in the position of striking. In case of a real attack, 
 our whole force, however advantageously disposed, could have 
 made but a poor resistance. On the other hand, I thought it of 
 some consequence to show the natives we were under no fears. 
 
 At last we got every thing into the boats, and only the gunner, 
 a seaman of the boat's crew, and myself, remained on shore. 
 
388 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 As the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which we were 
 obliged to swim, I told them to make the best of their way to it, 
 and that I should follow them. 
 
 With this order I was surprised to find them both refuse to 
 comply, and the consequence was a contest amongst us who 
 should be the last on shore. It seems that some hasty words I 
 had just before used to the sailor, which he thought reflected on 
 his courage, was the cause of this odd fancy in him ; and the old 
 gunner finding a point of honour started, thought he could not 
 well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous situation we 
 might have remained some time, had not our dispute been soon 
 settled by the stones that began to fly about us, and by the cries 
 of the people from the boats to make haste, as the natives were 
 foUowing us into the water with clubs and spears. I reached 
 the side of the pinnace first, and finding the gunner was at some 
 distance behind, and not entirely out of danger, I called out to 
 the marines to fire one musket. In the hurry of executing my 
 orders they fired two, and when I got into the boat I saw the 
 natives running away, and one man with a woman sitting by 
 him, left behind on the beach. The man made several attempts 
 to rise without being able, and it was with much regret I per- 
 ceived him to be wounded in the groin. 
 
 During our absence Captain Gierke had been under the greatest 
 anxiety for our safety. And these apprehensions were con- 
 siderably increased from his having entirely mistaken the drift 
 of the conversation he had held with some natives who had been 
 on board. The frequent mention of the name of Captain Cook, 
 with other strong and circumstantial descriptions of death and 
 destruction, made him conclude that the knowledge of the un- 
 fortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and that these 
 
Third Voyage, 389 
 
 were what they alluded to, whereas, all they had in view was to 
 make known to him the wars that had arisen in consequence of 
 the goats that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the 
 slaughter of the poor goats themselves, during the struggle for 
 the property of them. 
 
 The next morning, March 2, I was again ordered on shore 
 with the watering party. The risk we had run the preceding day 
 determined Captain Clerke to send a considerable force from 
 both ships for our guard, amounting in all to forty men under 
 arms. This precaution, however, was now unnecessary, for we 
 found the beach left entirely to ourselves, and the ground between 
 the landing place and the lake tabooed with small white flags. 
 We concluded from this appearance, that some of the chiefs had 
 certainly visited this quarter, and that, not being able to stay, 
 they had kindly and considerately taken this step for our greater 
 security and convenience. 
 
 The next day we completed our watering without meeting 
 with any material difficulty. On our return to the ships, we 
 found that several chiefs had been on board, and had made 
 excuses for the behaviour of their countrymen, attributing their 
 riotous conduct to the quarrels which subsisted at that time 
 amongst the principal people of the island. The quarrel had arisen 
 about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the last year, the right 
 of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence 
 of that island's being a dependency of his. 
 
 On the 7th we were surprised with a visit from Toneoneo. 
 When he heard the dowager princess was in the ship, it was 
 with great difficulty we could prevail on him to come on board, 
 not from any apprehension that he appeared to entertain of his 
 safety, but from an unwillingness to see her. Their meeting was 
 
390 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 with sulky and lowering looks on both sides. He stayed but a 
 short time, and seemed much dejected ; but we remarked, with 
 some surprise, that the women, both at his coming and going 
 away, prostrated themselves before him ; and that he was treated 
 by all the natives on board with the respect usually paid to those 
 of his rank. Indeed it must appear somewhat extraordinary that 
 a person who was at this time in a state of actual hostility with 
 the opposite party, and was even prepared for another battle, 
 should trust himself almost alone within the power of his 
 enemies. 
 
 On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed and sailed 
 toward Oneeheow, and at three in the afternoon, anchored in 
 twenty fathoms water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 
 1778. 
 
 On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the master was 
 sent to the north-west side of the island to look for a more con- 
 venient place for anchoring. He returned in the evening, having 
 found a fine bay with good anchorage ; also to the eastward were 
 four small wells of good water, the road to them level, and fit for 
 rolling casks. 
 
 Being now about to leave the Sandwich Islands it may be 
 proper to make a few remarks. This group consists of eleven 
 islands. They are called by the natives — 1. Owhyhee ; 2. Mo- 
 wee ; 3. Eanai, or Ornai ; 4. Morotinnee, Morokinne ; 5. 
 Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa ; 6. Morotoi, or Morokoi ; 7. Woahoo 
 or Oahoo ; 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and sometimes Kowi ; 9. 
 Neeheehow, or Oneeheow; 10. Oreehoua, or Reehoua; and, 11. 
 Tahoora — and all are inhabited excepting Morotinnee and Ta- 
 hoora. Besides the islands above enumerated, we were told by 
 the Indians that there is another called Modoopapapa, or 
 
Third Voyage, 391 
 
 Komodoopapapa, whicli is low and sandy, and visited only for 
 the purpose of catcHng turtle and sea-fowl. 
 
 They were named by Captain Cook the Sandwich Islands, 
 in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, under whose administration 
 he had enriched geography with so many splendid and important 
 discoveries. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly of 
 the same race with those of New Zealand, the Society and 
 Friendly Islands, Easter Island, and the Marquesas. This fact, 
 which, extraordinary as it is, might be thought sufficiently proved 
 by the striking similarity in their manners and customs, and the 
 general resemblance of their persons, is established beyond all 
 controversy by the absolute identity of their language. 
 
 From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what 
 steps they have spread through so vast a space, those who are 
 curious in disquisitions of this nature may perhaps not find it 
 very difficult to conjecture. It has been already observed, that 
 they bear strong marks of af&nity to some of the Indian tribes 
 that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline Islands ; and the same 
 af&nity may again be traced amongst the Battas and the Malays. 
 When these events happened is not so easy to ascertain ; it 
 was probably not very lately, as they are extremely populous, 
 and have no tradition of their own origin but what is perfectly 
 fabulous. 
 
 They are in general above the middle size, and well made. 
 Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheiteans, 
 and they are not altogether so handsome a people. However, 
 many of both sexes had fine open countenances, and the women 
 in particular had good eyes and teeth, and a sweetness and 
 sensibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their 
 
392 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 hair is of a brownisli black, and neither uniformly straight, like 
 that of the Indians of America, nor uniformly curling, as 
 amongst the African negroes, but varying in this respect like the 
 hair of Europeans. 
 
 The same superiority that is observable in the persons of the 
 earees, through all the other islands, is found also here. Those 
 whom we saw were, without exception, perfectly well formed ; 
 whereas the lower sort, besides their general inferiority are 
 subject to all the variety of make and figure that is seen in the 
 populace of other countries. 
 
 They seem to have few native diseases among them, but many 
 of the earees suffer dreadfully from the immoderate use of the ava. 
 There is something very singular in the history of this pernicious 
 drug. When Captain Cook first visited the Society Islands, it 
 was very little known among them. On his second voyage, he 
 found the use of it very prevalent at Ulietea, but it had still 
 gained very little ground at Otaheite. When we were last there, 
 the dreadful havoc it had made was beyond belief, insomuch 
 that the Captain scarcely knew many of his old acquaintances. 
 At the Friendly Islands it is also constantly drunk by the chiefs, 
 but so much diluted with water that it does not appear to produce 
 any bad effects. At Atooi also it is used with great moderation, 
 and the chiefs are, in consequence a much finer set of men there 
 than in any of the neighbouring islands. Our good friends, 
 Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were persuaded by us to refrain from 
 it ; and they recovered amazingly during the short time we 
 afterward remained in the island. 
 
 Notwithstanding the irreparable loss we suffered from the 
 sudden resentment and violence of these people, yet, in justice to 
 their general conduct^ it must be acknowledged that they are of 
 
Third Voyage, 393 
 
 the most mild and affectionate disposition^ equally remote from 
 the extreme levity and fickleness of the Otaheiteans^ and the 
 distant gravity and reserve of the inhabitants of the Friendly 
 Islands. They appear to live in the utmost harmony and friend- 
 ship with one another. The women who had children were 
 remarkable for their tender and constant attention to them ; and 
 the men would often lend their assistance in those domestic 
 offices with a willingness that does credit to their feelings. 
 
 The inhabitants of these islands differ from those of the 
 Friendly Isles, in suffering, almost universally, their beards to 
 grow. There were indeed a few, amongst, whom was the old 
 king, that cut it off entirely, and others that wore it only upon 
 the upper lip. The same variety in the manner of wearing the 
 hair is also observable here as among the other islanders of the 
 South Sea ; besides which they have a fashion, as far as we 
 know, peculiar to themselves. They cut it close on each side of 
 the head down to the ears. 
 
 Both sexes wear necklaces made of strings of small varie- 
 gated shells, and an ornament, in the form of the handle of a cup, 
 about two inches long, and half an inch broad, made of wood, 
 stone, or ivory, finely polished, which is hung about the neck by 
 fine threads of twisted hair, doubled sometimes a hundred fold. 
 Instead of this ornament, some of them wear on their breast a 
 small human figure made of bone, suspended in the same manner. 
 
 The custom of tatooing the body they have in common with 
 the rest of the natives of the South Sea islands, but it is only at 
 New Zealand and the Sandwich Islands that they tatoo the 
 face. They have a singular custom amongst them, the meaning 
 of which we could never learn — that of tatooing the tip of the 
 tongues of the females. 
 
394 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 The dress of the men generally consists only of a piece of 
 thick cloth, called the maro, about ten or twelve inches broad, 
 which they pass between the legs, and tie round the waist. This 
 is the common dress of all ranks of people. Their mats, some of 
 which are beautifully manufactured, are of various sizes, but 
 mostly about five feet long and four broad. These they throw 
 over their shoulders, and bring forward before; but they are 
 seldom used, except in time of war, for which purpose they seem 
 better adapted than for ordinary use, and capable of breaking the 
 blow of a stone, or any blunt weapon. 
 
 The common dress of the women bears a close resemblance 
 to that of the men. They wrap round the waist a piece of cloth 
 that reaches half way down the thighs, and sometimes in the cool 
 of the evening they appear with loose pieces of fine cloth thrown 
 over their shoulders, like the women of Otaheite. The pan is 
 another dress very frequently worn by the younger part of the 
 sex. It is made of the thinnest and finest sort of cloth, wrapt 
 several times round the waist, and descending to the leg, so as to 
 have the appearance of a full short petticoat. 
 
 The way of spending their time appears to be very simple, 
 and to admit of little variety. They rise with the sun, and after 
 enjoying the cool of the evening, retire to rest a few hours after sun- 
 set. The making of canoes and mats forms the occupation of the 
 earees ; the women are employed in manufacturing cloth, and the 
 towtows are principally engaged in the plantations and fishing. 
 
 Their music is of a rude kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, 
 nor instruments of any other sort that we saw, except drums of 
 various sizes. But their songs, which they sung in parts, and 
 accompany with a gentle motion of the arms, in the same manner 
 as the Friendly Islanders, had a very pleasing effect 
 
Third Voyage. 395 
 
 They are manifestly divided into three classes. The first are 
 the earees, or chiefs of each district, one of whom is superior to 
 the rest, and is called at Owhyhee earee-taboo and earee-moee. 
 By the first of these words they express his absolute authority ; 
 and by the latter all are obliged to prostrate themselves (or put 
 themselves to sleep, as the word signifies) in his presence. The 
 second class are those who appear to enjoy a right of property 
 without authority. The third are the towtows, or servants, who 
 have neither rank nor property. 
 
 The chiefs exercise their power over one another in the most 
 haughty and oppressive manner. Of this I shall give two in- 
 stances. A chief of the lower order had behaved with great 
 civility to one of our officers, and in return I carried him on 
 board and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to 
 dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea, who was chief of 
 a superior order, entered, whose face but too plainly manifested 
 his indignation at seeing our guest in so honourable a situation. 
 He immediately seized him by the hair of the head, and was pro- 
 ceeding to drag him out of the cabin when the Captain interfered, 
 and, after a deal of altercation, all the indulgence we could obtain, 
 without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was, that our guest should 
 be suffered to remain, being seated upon the floor, whilst Pareea 
 filled his place at the table. At another time, when Terreeoboo 
 first came on board the " Eesolution,'' Maiha-maiha, who attended 
 him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the ship in the 
 most ignominious manner. 
 
 Their religion resembles, in most of its principal features, 
 that of the Society and Friendly Islands. Their morals, their 
 whattas, their idols, their sacrifices, and their sacred songs, all of 
 which they have in common with each other, are convincing 
 
396 Ccok's Voyages, 
 
 proofs that their religious notions are derived from the same 
 source. 
 
 It has heen mentioned that the title of Orona, with all its 
 honours, was given to Captain Cook ; and it is also certain that 
 they regarded us generally as a race of people superior to them- 
 selves, and used often to say that the great Eatooa dwelt in our 
 country. 
 
 Human sacrifices are more frequent here, according to the 
 account of the natives themselves, than in any other islands we 
 visited. These horrid rites are not only had recourse to upon 
 the commencement of war, and preceding great battles, and 
 other signal enterprises, but the death of any considerable chief 
 calls for a sacrifice of one or more towtows, according to his 
 rank ; and we were told that men were destined to suffer on the 
 death of Terreeoboo. 
 
 To this class of their customs may also be referred that of 
 knocking out their fore-teeth, as a propitiatory sacrifice to the 
 Eatooa to avert any danger or mischief to which they might be 
 exposed. 
 
 Return to England, March 1779. 
 
 On the 15th of March 1779,. at seven in the morning, we 
 weighed anchor, and passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to 
 the south-west. 
 
 [But it is unnecessary to follow minutely the remainder of 
 Captain King's Journal.] After visiting the coast of Kamtschatka 
 and receiving great kindness from the Eussian officials, we 
 continued, he says, to steer northward, with a moderate southerly 
 breeze and fair weather, till the 13th July at ten in the forenoon, 
 when we again found ourselves close in with a solid field of ice, 
 
Third Voyage, 397 
 
 to whicli we could see no limits from the masthead. This at 
 once dashed all our hopes of penetrating farther. 
 
 Captain Gierke now resolved to make one more and final 
 attempt on the American coast for Baffin's or Hudson's Bay, 
 since we had been able to advance the furthest on this side last 
 year. 
 
 On the 16th, in the forenoon, we found ourselves embayed, 
 the ice having taken a sudden turn to the south-east, and in one 
 compact body surrounding us on all sides, except on the south 
 quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the southward, being 
 at this time in twenty-six fathoms water, and, as we supposed, 
 about twenty-five leagues from the coast of America. 
 
 At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening and 
 the fog clearing away, we saw the American coast to the south- 
 east, at the distance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it, 
 but were again stopped by the ice, and obliged to bear away to 
 the westward along the edge of it. Thus a connected solid field 
 of ice, rendering every effort we could make to a nearer approach 
 to the land fruitless, and joining, as we judged, to it, we took a 
 farewell of a north-east passage to Old England.* 
 
 I shall beg leave to give, in Captain Gierke's own words, the 
 reasons of this his final determination, as well as of his future 
 plans ; and this the rather, as it is the last transaction his death 
 permitted him to write down. 
 
 " It is now impossible to proceed the least farther to the north- 
 ward upon this coast (America) ; and it is equally as improbable 
 that this amazing mass of ice should be dissolved by the few re- 
 
 * This was first accomplislied three quarters of a century afterwards by 
 Sir Robert M'Clure. The highest latitude attained by Captain Gierke appears 
 to have been 71° 56' N., which is to the northward of Icy Cape. 
 
39^ Cook's Voyages 
 
 maining summer weeks which will terminate this season ; but 
 it will continue, it is to be believed, as it now is, an insurmount- 
 able barrier to every attempt we can possibly make. I therefore 
 think it the best step that can be taken for the good of the service, 
 to trace the sea over to the Asiatic coast, and to try if I can find 
 any opening that wiH admit me farther north ; if not, to see what 
 more is to be done upon that coast, where I hope, yet cannot 
 much flatter myself, to meet with better success, for the sea is now 
 so choked with ice, that a passage, I fear, is totally out of the 
 question." 
 
 Captain Gierke therefore determined, for the reasons just 
 assigned, to give up all further attempts on the coast of America, 
 and to make his last efforts in search of a passage on the coast 
 of the opposite continent. In this also he was disappointed. 
 
 As he found a farther advance to the northward, as well as a 
 nearer approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked 
 up with ice, this, added to the representations of Captain Gore, 
 determined Captain Clerke to sail for Awatska Bay, to repair 
 our damages there ; and, before the winter should set in, to 
 explore the coast of Japan. 
 
 I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the 
 countenances of every individual, as soon as Captain Gierke's re- 
 solutions were made known. We were all heartily sick of a 
 navigation full of danger, and in which the utmost perseverance 
 had not been repaid with the smallest probability of success. 
 We therefore turned our faces home, after an absence of three 
 years, with a delight and satisfaction which, notwithstanding the 
 tedious voyage we had still to make, and the immense distance 
 we had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully 
 enjoyed, as if we had been already in sight of the Land's End. 
 
Third Voyage, 399 
 
 Captain Gierke was now no longer able to get out of his bed •, 
 and on the 22d of August 1779, at nine o'clock in the morning, 
 he departed this life, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. He 
 died of a consumption which had evidently commenced before he 
 left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole 
 voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy 
 object to his friends ; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, 
 the constant flow of good spirits, which continued to the last 
 hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them some 
 consolation. It was impossible not to feel a more than common 
 degree of compassion for a person whose whole life had been a 
 continued scene of those difficulties and hardships to which a 
 seaman's occupation is subject, and under which he at last sunk. 
 He was brought up to the navy from his earliest youth, and had 
 been in several actions during the war which began in 1756 ; 
 particularly in that between the "Bellona" and "Courageux,*' where 
 being stationed in the mizen top, he was carried overboard with 
 the mast, but was taken up without having received any hurt. 
 He was midshipman in the "Dolphin," commanded by Commodore 
 Byron, on her first voyage round the world, and afterwards served 
 on the American station. In 1768, he made his second voyage 
 round the world in the " Endeavour," as master's mate, and, by the 
 promotion which took place during the expedition, he returned a 
 lieutenant. His third voyage round the world was in the 
 " Eesolution," of which he was appointed the second lieutenant ; 
 and soon after his return in 1775, he was promoted to the rank 
 of master and commander. When the present expedition was 
 ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the " Discovery," to 
 accompany Captain Cook, and by the death of the latter, suc- 
 ceeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. 
 
400 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 It would be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, 
 that during the short time the expedition was under his direction, 
 he was most zealous and anxious for its success. His health, 
 about the time the principal command devolved upon him, began 
 to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter 
 the rigours of a high northern climate. But the vigour and acti- 
 vity of his mind had in no shape suffered by the decay of his 
 body ; and though he knew that, by delaying his return to a 
 warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained 
 for his recovery, yet careful and jealous to the last degree, that a 
 regard to his own situation should never bias his judgment to 
 the prejudice of the service, he persevered in the search of a 
 passage till it was the opinion of every ofiS.cer in both ships that 
 it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not 
 only be fruitless but dangerous. 
 
 Next day we anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul, when our old friend the Serjeant, who was still the com- 
 mander of the place, came on board with a present of berries, 
 intended for our poor deceased captain. He was exceedingly 
 affected when we told him of his death, and showed him the 
 coffin that contained his body. He signified his intention of 
 sending off an express to the commander of Bolcheretsk, to 
 acquaint him with our arrival, and Captain Gore availed himself 
 of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he requested 
 that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible 
 expedition. 
 
 In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new 
 commissions, in consequence of Captain Clerke's death ; appoint- 
 ing himself to the command of the " Eesolution,'' and me to the 
 command of the " Discovery," and Mr. Lanyan, master's mate of 
 
Third Voyage, 401 
 
 the " Eesolution," who had served in that capacity on board the 
 '* Adventure " in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant 
 lieutenancy. These promotions produced several other arrange- 
 ments of course. On Sunday afternoon, August the 29th, we 
 paid the last offices to Captain Gierke. The officers and men of 
 both ships walked in procession to the grave, whilst the ships 
 fired minute guns ; and the service being ended, the marines 
 fired three volleys. He was interred under a tree, which stands 
 on a rising ground in a valley to the north side of the harbour, 
 where the hospital and store-houses are situated. All the 
 Eussians in the garrison were assembled, and attended with great 
 respect and solemnity.* 
 
 * The following is the Monumental Inscription at Kamtscliatka, to the 
 Memory of Captain Gierke : — 
 
 ** At the foot of this tree lies the body of Captain Charles Clerke, Esq., who 
 succeeded to the command of His Britannic Majesty's ships, the "Resolution" 
 and "Discovery," on the death of Captain James Cook, Esq. (who was unfoi-tu- 
 nately killed by the natives at an island in the South Sea, on the 14th of Feb- 
 ruary, in the year 1779). He died at sea of a lingering consumption on the 22d 
 of August in the same year, aged 38." 
 
 Underneath his escutcheon in the church of Paratoolka, is the following 
 Inscription : 
 
 " The above is the escutcheon of Captain Charles Clerke, Esq. He succeeded 
 to the command of His Britannic Majesty's ships, the "Resolution" and 
 " Discovery,'' on the death of Captain James Cook, Esq. (who was unfortunately 
 killed by the natives at an island ia the South Sea, on the 14th of February 
 1779, after having explored the coast of America from 42° 30', to 70° 44' latitude, 
 in search of a passage from Asia to Europe). Captain Clerke died of a lingeiing 
 consumption at sea, on the 22d of August 1779, aged 38 years, and lies buried at 
 the foot of a tree near the Ostrog of St. Peter and St. Paul. He had made the 
 second attempt in search of a passage from Asia to Europe, and penetrated as far 
 to the north, within a few miles, as Captain Cook, but found any further progress 
 that way impracticable. " 
 
 Extract from Captain Oore*8 Log, 1779-80. — Boards, Admiralty, Whitehall. 
 
 2d 
 
402 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a 
 discretionary power with the commanding officer of the expedi- 
 tion, in case of failure in the search of a passage from the Pacific 
 into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England by whatever route 
 he should think best for the farther improvement of geography. 
 Captain Oore demanded of the principal officers their sentiments 
 in writing respecting the manner in which these orders might 
 most effectually be obeyed. The result of our opinions, which 
 he had the satisfaction to find unanimous, and entirely coincid- 
 ing with his own, that the condition of the ships, of the sails and 
 cordage, made it unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of 
 the year, to navigate the sea between Japan and Asia, v/hich 
 would otherwise have afforded the largest field for discovery ; 
 that it was therefore advisable to keep to the eastward of that 
 island, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles, and 
 examine more particularly the islands that lie nearest the north- 
 ern coast of Japan, which are represented as of a considerable 
 size, and independent of the Eussian and Japanese governments. 
 Should we be so fortunate as to find in these any safe and com- 
 modious harbours, we conceived they might be of importance, 
 either as places of shelter for any future navigators who may be 
 employed in exploring these seas, or as the means of opening a 
 commercial intercourse among the neighbouring dominions of 
 the two empires. Our next object was to survey the coast of the 
 Japanese Islands, and afterwards to make the coast of China, as 
 far to the northward as we were able, and run along it to Macao. 
 
 This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain 
 Gore, in case of separation, to proceed immediately to Macao ; 
 and, at six o'clock in the evening of the 9th of October, having 
 cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay, we steered to the south-east. 
 
Third Voyage. 403 
 
 After experiencing very blowing weather and adverse winds, 
 which put us out of the course originally intended, at day-break 
 of the 26th we had the pleasure of descrying high land to the 
 westward, which proved to be Japan. 
 
 From the 29th of October to the 5th of November, we con- 
 tinued our course to the south-east, having very unsettled weather, 
 attended with much lightning and rain. On both days we 
 passed great quantities of pumice stone, several pieces of which 
 we took up and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. 
 We conjectured that these stones had been thrown into the sea 
 by eruptions of various dates, as many of them were covered with 
 barnacles, and others quite bare. 
 
 Captain Gore now directed his course to the west south-west 
 for the Bashee Islands, hoping to procure at them such a supply 
 of refreshments as would help to shorten his stay at Macao ; but 
 unfortunately he overshot them, from an inaccuracy in the chart 
 to which he trusted. 
 
 In the forenoon of the 29th we passed several Chinese fishing 
 boats, who eyed us with great indifference. Being now nearly 
 in the latitude of the Lema Islands, we bore away west by north, 
 and, after running twenty-two miles, saw one of them nine or ten 
 leagues to the westward. 
 
 In the morning of the 30th we ran along the Lema Isles. 
 At nine o'clock a Chinese boat, which had been before with the 
 * Eesolution," came alongside, and wanted to put on board us a 
 pilot, which, however, we declined, as it was our business to 
 foUow our consort. 
 
 "We rejoiced to see the " Eesolution" soon after fire a gun, 
 and hoist her colours as a signal for a pilot. On repeating the 
 signal we saw an excellent race between four Chinese boats ; 
 
404 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 and Captain Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived 
 first to carry the ship to the Typa for thirty dollars, sent me 
 word that as we could easily follow, that expense might he saved 
 to us. Soon after a second pilot, getting on board the " Eesolu- 
 tion," insisted on conducting the ship, and, without farther cere- 
 mony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the sails to be 
 trimmed. This occasioned a violent dispute, which at last was 
 compromised by agreeing to go shares in the money. 
 
 In obedience to the instructions given to Captain Cook by 
 the Board of Admiralty, it now became necessary to demand of 
 the officers and men their journals, and what other papers they 
 might have in their possession, relating to the history of our 
 voyage. The execution of these orders seemed to require some 
 delicacy as well as firmness. As soon, therefore, as I had as- 
 sembled the ship's company on deck, I acquainted them with the 
 orders we had received, and the reasons which I thought ought 
 to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the same time 
 I told them that any papers which they were desirous not to have 
 sent to the Admiralty should be sealed up in their presence, and 
 kept in my own custody, till the intentions of the Board, with 
 regard to the publication of the history of the voyage, were ful- 
 filled, after which they should faithfully be restored back to them. 
 
 It is with the greatest satisfaction I can relate that my pro- 
 posals met with the approbation and the cheerful compliance 
 both of the officers and men ; and I am persuaded that every 
 scrap of paper containing any transactions relating to the voyage 
 were given up. Indeed, it is doing bare justice to the seamen of 
 this ship to declare, that they were the most obedient and the 
 best disposed men I ever knew, though almost all of them were 
 very young, and had never before served in a ship of war. 
 
Third Voyage. 405 
 
 We kept working to windward till six in the evening, when 
 we came to anchor on the 1st of December. 
 
 In the evening of the 2d, Captain Gore sent me on shore to 
 visit the Portuguese governor, and to request his assistance in 
 procuring refreshments for our crews. At the same time I took 
 a list of the naval stores, of which both vessels were greatly in 
 want, with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton and 
 applying to the servants of the East India Company, who were 
 at that time resident there. On my arrival at the citadel, the 
 fort-major informed me that the governor was sick, and not able 
 to see company. On my acquainting the major with my desire 
 of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me that they 
 could not venture to furnish me with a boat till leave was 
 obtained from the hoppo or officer of the customs, and that the 
 application for this purpose must be made to the Chinese govern- 
 ment at Canton. 
 
 The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay 
 could only be equalled by the extreme impatience with which 
 we had so long waited for an opportunity of receiving intelligence 
 from Europe. It often happens that, in the eager pursuit of an 
 object, we overlook the easiest and most obvious means of attain- 
 ing it. This was actually my case at present, for I was returning 
 under great dejection to the ship, when the Portuguese officer 
 who attended me, asked me if I did not mean to visit the English 
 gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what transport I re- 
 ceived the information this question conveyed to me ; nor the 
 anxious hopes and fears, the conflict between curiosity and 
 apprehension, which passed in my mind, as we walked toward 
 the house of one of our countrymen. 
 
 In this state of agitation, it is not surprising that our reception, 
 
4o6 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 though no way deficient in civiKty or kindness, should appear 
 cold and formal. In our inquiries, as far as they related to 
 objects of private concern, we met, as was indeed to be expected, 
 with little or no satisfaction ; but the events of a public nature, 
 which had happened since our departure, now, for the first time, 
 burst all at once upon us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and 
 left us for some time almost without the power of reflection. 
 
 On the 9th, Captain Gore received an answer from the 
 Committee of the English supercargoes at Canton, in which they 
 assured him that their best endeavours should be used to procure 
 the supplies we stood in need of as expeditiously as possible, 
 and that a passport should be sent for one of his of&cers. 
 
 The following day an English merchant, from one of our 
 settlements in the East Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the 
 assistance of a few hands to navigate a vessel he had purchased 
 at Macao up to Canton. Captain Gore judging this a good 
 opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave orders that I 
 should take along with me my second lieutenant, the lieutenant 
 of marines, and ten seamen. Though this was not precisely the 
 mode in which I could have wished to visit Canton, yet, as it 
 was very uncertain when the passport might arrive, and my 
 presence might contribute materially to the expediting of our 
 supplies, I did not hesitate to put myself on board. 
 
 I reached Canton on the 18th a little after it was dark, and 
 landed at the English factory, where, though my arrival was very 
 unexpected, I was received with every mark of attention and 
 civility. Wishing to make my stay as short as possible, I re- 
 quested the gentlemen to procure boats for me the next day to 
 convey the stores ; but I was soon informed that a business of 
 that kind was not to be transacted so rapidly in this country, 
 
Third Voyage. 407 
 
 that many forms were to be complied with, and, in short, that 
 patience was an indispensable virtue in China. 
 
 I waited several days for the event of our application, without 
 understanding that the matter was at all advanced toward a con- 
 clusion. Whilst I was doubting what measures to pursue, the 
 commander of a country ship brought me a letter from Captain 
 Gore, in which he acquainted me that he had engaged him to bring 
 us down from Canton, and to deliver the stores we had procured 
 at his own risk in the Typa. 
 
 In the evening of the 26th I took my leave of the super- 
 cargoes, having thanked them for their many obliging favours, 
 amongst which I must not forget to mention a handsome present 
 of tea for the use of the ship's companies, and a large collection 
 of English periodical publications. The latter we found a valuable 
 acquisition, as they both served to amuse our impatience during 
 our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total 
 strangers to what had been transacting in our native country. 
 At one o^clock the next morning we left Canton, and arrived at 
 Macao about the same hour the day following, having passed 
 down a channel which lies to the westward of that by which we 
 had come up. 
 
 During our absence a brisk trade had been carrying on with 
 the Chinese for the sea-otter skins, which had every day been 
 rising in their value. One of our seamen sold his stock alone for 
 eight hundred dollars ; and a few prime skins, which were clean 
 and had been well preserved, were sold for one hundred and 
 twenty each. The whole amount of the value in specie and goods 
 that was got for the furs in both ships, I am confident did not 
 fall short of £2000 sterling; and it was generally supposed that 
 at least two-thirds of the quantity we had originally got from the 
 
4o8 Cook's Voyages, 
 
 Americans were spoiled and worn out, or had been given away 
 and otherwise disposed of in Kamtschatka. 
 
 The rage with which our seamen were possessed to return to 
 Cook's Kiver, and buy another cargo of skins to make their for- 
 tunes at one time was not far short of mutiny. 
 
 The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for 
 our sea-otter skins had produced a very whimsical change in 
 the dress of all our crew. On our arrival here nothing could 
 exceed the ragged appearance both of the younger officers and 
 seamen, for as our voyage had already exceeded, by near a twelve- 
 month, the time it was at first imagined we should remain at sea, 
 almost the whole of our original stock of European clothes had 
 been long worn out, or patched up with skins, and the various 
 manufactures we had met with in the course of our discoveries. 
 These were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiest 
 silks and cottons of China. 
 
 On the 12th of January 1780, at noon, we unmoored and 
 scaled the guns, which on board my ship now amounted to ten ; 
 so that, by means of four additional ports, we could, if occasion 
 required, fight seven on a side. 
 
 We thought it our duty to provide ourselves with these means 
 of defence, though we had some reasons to believe, from the 
 public prints last received at Canton, that the generosity of our 
 enemies had in a great measure rendered them superfluous. As 
 this intelligence was farther confirmed by the private letters of 
 several of the supercargoes. Captain Gore thought himself bound, 
 in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to refrain 
 from availing himself of any opportunities of capture which these 
 might afford, and to preserve throughout his voyage the strictest 
 neutrality. 
 
Third Voyage, 409 
 
 At two in the afternoon on the 13th, having got under sail, 
 the ^* Eesolution " saluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns, 
 which was returned with the same number. 
 
 In the morning of the 20th we steered for Pulo Condore ; 
 and at half-past twelve we got sight of the island. As soon as 
 we were come to anchor, Captain Gore fired a gun with a view 
 of apprizing the natives of our arrival, and drawing them towards 
 the shore, but without effect. Early in the morning of the 21st, 
 parties were sent to cut wood, which was Captain Gore's principal 
 motive for coming hither. 
 
 We were now conducted to the town, which consists of be- 
 tween twenty and thirty houses, built close together. 
 
 By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in 
 sight, I had no difficulty in making a man who seemed to be the 
 principal person of the company to which we were introduced, 
 comprehend the main business of our errand, and I as readily 
 understood from him that the chief or captain was absent, but 
 would soon return ; and that, without his consent, no purchases 
 of any kind could be made. 
 
 Having at last procured a supply of buffaloes and some fat 
 hogS^ on the 28th of January 1 780 we unmoored ; and, as soon 
 as we were clear of the harbour, steered south south-west. 
 
 On the 5th February we approached the coast of Sumatra. 
 The country is covered with wood down to the water's edge, and 
 the shores are so low, that the sea overflows the land, and washes 
 the trunks of the trees. To this flat and marshy situation of the 
 shore, we may attribute those thick fogs and vapours which we 
 perceived every morning, not without dread and horror, hanging 
 over the island, till they were dispersed by the rays of the sun. 
 The shores of Banca, which are opposite, are much bolder ; and 
 
4^o Cook's Voyages. 
 
 the country inland rises to a moderate height, and appears to be 
 well wooded throughout. 
 
 In the morning of the 9th, I received orders from Captain 
 Gore to make sail towards a Dutch ship which now hove in sight 
 to the southward, and which we supposed to be from Europe ; 
 and, according to the nature of the intelligence we could procure 
 from her, either to join him at Cracatoa, where he intended to 
 stop for the purpose of supplying the ships with arrack, or to 
 proceed to the south-east end of Prince's Island, and there take 
 in our water and wait for him. 
 
 I accordingly bore down towards the Dutch ship, which soon 
 after came to an anchor to the eastward ; and having got as near 
 her as the tide would permit, we also dropt anchor. 
 
 Next morning Mr. Williamson got on board the ship, and 
 learnt that she had been seven months from Europe, and three 
 from the Cape of Good Hope ; that, before she sailed, France and 
 Spain had declared war against Great Britain ; and that she left 
 • Sir Edward Hughes with a squadron of men of war and a fleet of 
 East India ships at the Cape. I immediately sent a boat to 
 acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had received. 
 
 At three o'clock in the morning of the 12th we stood over for 
 Prince's Island, and came to an anchor within half a mile of the 
 shore. Lieutenant Lanyan, who had been here before with 
 Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was sent along with the master 
 to look for the watering-place. 
 
 The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought 
 a plentiful supply of large fowls and some turtles ; but the last, 
 for the most part, were very small. 
 
 On the 19th, being favoured by a breeze from the north- 
 west, we broke ground, and the next day had entirely lost sight 
 of this place. 
 
Third Voyage. 411 
 
 Of this island I shall only observe, that we were exceedingly 
 struck with the great general resemblance of the natives, both in 
 figure, colour, manners, and even language, to the nations we had 
 been so much conversant with in the South Seas. 
 
 From the time of our entering these Straits, we began to 
 experience the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two 
 of our people fell dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers, 
 which, however, we prevented from spreading, by putting the 
 patients apart from the rest in the most airy berths ; and we had 
 the singular satisfaction of escaping from these fatal seas without 
 the loss of a single life ; probably owing to the vigorous health 
 of the crews, and the strict attention now become habitual in our 
 men, to the salutary regulations introduced amongst us by 
 Captain Cook. 
 
 It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed 
 directly to St. Helena, without stopping at the Cape, but the 
 rudder of the "Eesolution" having been reported to be in a 
 dangerous state, he resolved to steer immediately for the Cape, as 
 the most eligible place both for the recovery of the sick and for 
 the repair of the rudder. 
 
 In the forenoon of the 10th of April, a ship was seen bear- 
 ing down to us, which proved to be an English East-India Packet, 
 that had left Table Bay three days before, and was cruising with 
 orders for the China fleet and other India ships. 
 
 The next morning we stood into Simon's Bay. We found 
 lying here the "Nassau" and "Southampton" East Indiamen, 
 waiting for convoy for Europe. The "Eesolution" saluted the 
 fort with eleven guns, and the same number was returned- 
 
 Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, came to visit us as 
 soon as we had anchored. He appeared much surprised to see 
 our crew in so healthy a condition, as the Dutch ship that had 
 
412 Cook's Voyages. 
 
 left Macao on our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape 
 some time before, reported that we were in a most wretched 
 state, having only fourteen hands left on board the " Eesolution ," 
 and seven on board the "Discovery." It is not easy to conceive 
 the motive tliese people could have had for propagating so 
 wanton and malicious a falsehood. 
 
 On the 15th I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town, and 
 the next morning we waited on Baron Pletenberg, the governor, 
 by whom we were received with every possible attention and 
 civility. Both he and Mr. Brandt had conceived a great personal 
 affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highest admiration of 
 his character, and heard the recital of his misfortune with many 
 expressions of unaffected sorrow. 
 
 During our stay at the Cape we met with every proof of the 
 most friendly disposition towards us, both in the governor and 
 principal persons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. 
 
 Having completed our victualling, and furnished ourselves 
 with the necessary supply of naval stores, we sailed out of the 
 bay on the 9th of May. 
 
 On the 12th of June we passed the equator for the fourth 
 time during this voyage. 
 
 On the 12th of August we made the western coast of Ireland ; 
 and, after a fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from 
 whence it was Captain Gore's intention to have sent the journals 
 and maps of our voyage to London, we were obliged, by strong 
 southerly winds, to steer to the northward. Our next object was 
 to put into Lough Swilly ; but the wind continuing in the same 
 quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis Island ; and on 
 the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships came to 
 an anchor at Stromness. From hence I was dispatched by Captain 
 
Third Voyage. 413 
 
 Gore to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; 
 and on the 4th day of October the ships arrived safe at the Nore, 
 after an absence of four years two months and twenty-two days. 
 
 On quitting the "Discovery" at Stromness, I had the satisfac- 
 tion of leaving the whole crew in perfect health, and, at the same 
 time, the number of convalescents on board the "Eesolution" did 
 not exceed two or three, of whom only one was incapable of 
 service. In the course of our voyage the "Eesolution" lost but 
 five men by sickness, three of whom were in a precarious state of 
 health at our departure from England; the " Discovery '^ did not 
 lose a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations esta- 
 blished by Captain Cook, with which the world is already 
 acquainted, may be justly considered as the principal cause, 
 under the blessing of Divine Providence, of this singular success. 
 But the baneful effects of salt provisions might, perhaps, in the 
 end have been felt, notwithstanding these salutary precautions, 
 if we had not assisted them, by availing ourselves of every sub- 
 stitute our situation at various times afforded. These frequently 
 consisting of articles which our people had not been used to con- 
 sider as food for men, and being sometimes exceedingly nauseous, 
 it required the joint aid of persuasion, authority, and example, to 
 conquer their prejudices and disgust. 
 
 The preventives we principally relied on were sour krout and 
 portable soup. As to the anti-scorbutic remedies, with which we 
 were amply supplied, we had no opportunity of trying their 
 effects, as there did not appear the slightest symptoms of the 
 scurvy in either ship during the whole voyage. Our malt and hops 
 had also been kept as a resource in case of actual sickness ; and on 
 examination at the Cape of Good Hope were found entirely spoiled. 
 
 About the same time were opened some casks of biscuit, 
 
414 Cook's Voyages 
 
 flour, pease, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of experiment, 
 had been put up in small casks, lined with tin-foil, and found all, 
 except the pease, in a much better state than could have been 
 expected in the usual manner of package. 
 
 I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the 
 consideration of government the necessity of allowing a sufficient 
 quantity of Peruvian bark to such of His Majesty's ships as may 
 be exposed to the influence of unwholesome climates. It happened 
 very fortunately in the " Discovery," that only one of the men, 
 who had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, stood in need of this 
 medicine, as he alone consumed the whole quantity usually 
 carried out by surgeons in such vessels as ours. Had more been 
 afiected in the same manner, they would probably all have 
 perished from the want of the only remedy capable of affording 
 them effectual relief. 
 
 Another circumstance attending this voyage, which, if we 
 consider its duration and the nature of the service in which we 
 were engaged, will appear scarcely less singular than the extra- 
 ordinary healthiness of the crews, was, that the two ships never 
 lost sight of each other for a day together, except twice, which 
 was owing, the first time, to an accident that happened to the 
 "Discovery" off the coast of Owhyhee, and the second, to the 
 fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger 
 proof cannot be given of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern 
 officers, to whom this share of merit almost entirely belongs. 
 
 Thus ended a voyage distinguished by the extent and import- 
 ance of its discoveries. Besides other inferior islands, it added 
 that fine group called the Sandwich Islands to the former known 
 limits of the terraqueous globe, and ascertained the proximity of 
 the two great continents of Asia and America. 
 
Third Voyage, 415 
 
 This enterprise proved fatal to its principal conductors — 
 Captains Cook and Clerke, as we have seen, never returned. 
 Captain King, with a constitution broken by climate and fatigue, 
 lived indeed to publish the voyage which will immortalize his 
 name ; but he soon after feU a martyr to what he had undergone 
 in the service of his country. He died at Nice, whither he had 
 retired for the mild salubrity of the air, in the autumn of 1784 ; 
 and though cut off in the bloom of life, left a name covered with 
 honour and remembered with regret. He was the fourth son of 
 the Dean of Eaphoe in Ireland, but of an English family. 
 
 Having come to a conclusion of the voyages in which the 
 genius and talents of that great navigator Captain Cook are so 
 pre-eminently displayed, we cannot omit the opportunity of 
 gratifying a propensity which our readers must naturally feel of 
 being made acquainted with what family he left behind him, 
 and how the dispensations of Providence may have disposed of 
 them ; but in doing this, sorry are we to say, that we impose on 
 ourselves a very painful duty, for we are unfortunately compelled 
 to relate a tale of woe, melancholy and distressing in the 
 extreme. 
 
 When he set out on his last voyage. Captain Cook's family 
 consisted of his wife and three sons, the second of whom was lost 
 on board the " Thunderer " man of war, about six months after 
 the unfortunate death of his father. The eldest son, who was 
 appointed master and commander of the " Spitfire '' sloop of war, 
 while she lay off Poole waiting for hands, in attempting to get on 
 board, was driven to sea in a boat during the night in a heavy 
 gale of wind, and he and every person in the boat perished. But 
 what considerably aggravates this misfortune is, as was afterwards 
 disclosed by one of the sailors on board the vessel, that in their 
 
41 6 Cooks Voyages, 
 
 distress they were met by a revenue cutter, the hands cf which 
 threw them a rope, and lay to till they could bale their boat, or 
 the fury of the wind should cease. But the master of the cutter, 
 who was then in bed, was no sooner made acquainted with these 
 circumstances, and that it was a king's boat, than, with an oath, 
 he ordered his men immediately to set them adrift, and in that 
 situation they were left to be overwhelmed by a tempestuous 
 sea. 
 
 His body was afterwards found, and conveyed to Spithead on 
 board his own vessel, whence it was conveyed to Cambridge, and 
 buried by the side of the youngest brother, who had suddenly 
 died of a fever, and whose funeral he had attended only about 
 six weeks before. 
 
 Thus was a tender mother prematurely deprived of her hus- 
 band and children, and left to mourn their untimely fates, which 
 had so powerful an effect upon her mind as to reduce Mrs. Cook 
 to a mere shadow of what she was formerly. 
 
 One thing yet remains to be done, — a public monument to 
 Captain Cook, and one worthy of his great achievements, the 
 benefits he has rendered to mankind, and the lustre shed by his 
 name on the navy of England, — some noble lighthouse in the 
 pathway of ships of all nations, which may lead them safely to 
 their respective havens ; or, if this cannot be, at least a statue in 
 Trafalgar Square, where Dr. Jenner and Sir Charles Napier are 
 most grievously out of place, occupjdng, as they do, the site of 
 statues of CoUingwood, Hardy, St. Vincent, Howe, Duncan, etc. 
 
 The only memorial to Cook at present is at Cambridge, and 
 is as follows : — 
 
 Inscription on the Tablet near the Communion Table in the 
 church of St. Andrew's the Great, Cambridge — 
 
IN MEMORY OF 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, of the Royal Navy. 
 
 One of the most celebrated Navigators that this or former ages can boast, 
 
 Who was killed by the natives of Owyhee, 
 
 In the Pacific Ocean, on the 14th day of February 1779, 
 
 In the 5l8t year of his age. 
 
 Of Mr. Nathaniel Cook, who was lost with the Thunderer man-of-war, 
 Captain Boyle Walsinyham, in a. most dreadful hurricane in October 1780, 
 aged 16 years. 
 
 Of Mr. Hugh Cook, of Christ's College, Cambridge, who diied on the 
 21st December 1793 ; aged 17 years. 
 
 Of James Cook, Esq., Commander in the Royal Navy, who lost his life 
 on the 25th January 1794, in going from Poole to the Spitfire sloop-of-war . 
 which he commanded ; in the 31st year of his age. 
 
 Of Elizabeth Cook, who died April 9th, 1771 ; aged 4 years. 
 
 Joseph Cook, who died September 13th, 1768 ; aged 1 month. 
 
 George Cook, who died October 1st, 1772 ; aged 4 months. 
 All children of the first-mentioned Captain James Cook, by Elizabeth Cook, 
 who survived her husband 56 years, and departed this life 13th May 1835, 
 at her residence, Clapham, Surrey, in the 94th year of her age. Her 
 remains are deposited with those of her sons, James and Hugh, in the 
 middle aisle of this church. 
 
 Inscription on the Slab in the floor of the middle aisle of the 
 same church — 
 
 Mr. Hugh Cook, 
 
 Died 21st December 1793 ; 
 
 Aged 17 years. 
 
 James Cook, Esq., 
 
 Died 25th January 1794 ; 
 
 Aged 31 years. 
 
 Also, 
 
 Elizabeth Cook, their ^fother, 
 
 Obit. 13th May 1835 ; 
 
 ^TAT. 93, 
 
i- 
 
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