THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES - ',./ I >*. *:*. >>.:'. CB.YJPT, LESTIWGHAM cfnjRCH. CONTAINING THE HISTORY OF KIRKBY MOORSIDE, AND AM ACCOUNT OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PLACES IN ITS VICINITY; TOGETHER WITH BRIEF NOTICES OF THE MORE REMOTE OR LESS IMPORTANT ONES. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED A DISSERTATION ON AND OTHER CURIOUS PHENOMENA, IN THE RE- CENTLY DISCOVERED CAVE AT KIRKDALE. BY THE REV. W. EASTMEAD, AUTHOR OF OBSERVATIONS ON HUMAN LIFE, AND IIOXOR.ULf MEMBER OF THE YORKSHIRE, HULL, AND WIUTBY, LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETIES. LONDON : IOLD BY BALDWIN, CKADOCK, AND JOY ; WOLSTENHOI.ME, YORK; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS. FRIJCTBD AT THE OFFICE OF K. PSJLT, 1824. DEDICATION. TO THE VENERABLE AND REV. FRANCIS WRANGHAM, A. M. F. R. S. ARCHDEACON OF CLEVELAND, PREBENDARY OF AMPLEFORTH IN YORK CATHE- DRAL, VICAR OF HTJNMANBY, RECTOR OF THORP BASSET, &C. &C. : Rev. Sir, In dedicating the following work to one whose literary character stands so high as that of the Archdeacon of Cleveland, I may be accused of some degree of presumption. I own, indeed, I should have felt great cause for embarrassment, in submitting it to your inspection, had I not at the same time been aware that your talents and literary attainments are not exceeded by your candour ; that you are ever ready to advance by your countenance and support any laudable attempt ; and to make every reasonable allowance for the difficulties under which an original History of this complicated character must ever labour. Long versed as you have been, in all the details of literary composition, it would be worse than su- perfluous, it would be impertinent in me, to point 1227397 IT DEDICATION. out to you the various and voluminous authorities that in such an undertaking are to be consulted; the contradictory statements to he reconciled ; the diffi- culty often of obtaining accurate local information ; and the still greater difficulty attending the examina- tion of ancient records, and original MSS., and not ^infrequently of being even permitted to derive assistance from such invaluable sources. Your kind encouragement during the progress of this work, independent of the high official station you hold in your public character, as Archdeacon of Cleveland, as well as your private connexion with this district, as a proprietor of several of the placet noticed in it, and more particularly of the Kirkdale Cave, which forms so prominent a feature in the present work, rendered it a duty incumbent upon me to solicit the honour of inscribing it to so dis- tinguished a name. To your candour therefore I submit it, feeling grate, ful for the permission so politely granted ; and with high admiration of your talents, begging leave to subscribe myself, with every sentiment of respect, Your's truly obliged, WILLIAM EASTMEAD. KirUby Moor side t Sep. 1st, 1824 PREFACE. It was the observation of a celebrated writer > that no one should presume to offer an opinion up- on an authors work without having first read his preface , for it was impossible to form a correct idea of it, without learning the object the author had in view in its composition, what he intended, and how far that intention had been fulfilled. An observation particularly applicable to my own case ; for the present volume having so far exceed- ed the limits originally proposed, and having devi- ated considerably from the plan first laid down, I deem this the proper place to enter into some explan- ation of the reasons that occasioned the change, and also of the general intention of the present work. My first object was a popular sketch of the Cave at Kirkdale, and of the interesting discoveries made there, of which although some accounts had already appeared before the public, yet they had been presented in too expensive and elaborate a form to be consulted by many persons who wished to avail themselves of them. In this part of the work I have found myself compelled to differ in opinion from great authori- ties ; but I trust I have done so with that defe- rence and respect which are due to them, consis- tently with the main object we all have in view, the elucidation of the truth. To this dissertation I was prevailed upon by the kind encouragement of my friends to annex a *i PREFACE. sketch of the ancient and modern history of Kirk- by Moorside, a totvn of some importance in the immediate vicinity of the Kirkdale cave ; next I was further induced to give sketches of the most important places in the neighbourhood, especially those in the wapentake of Rydale ; and lastly to notice the castles, monasteries, antiquities, Sfc. Thus my plans became enlarged, my materials ac- cumulated, until a pamphlet of moderate size has swelled to a thick volume, and the public hare the Historia Rieiallensis, submitted to their candour. To render the work more amusing and instruc- tive, I have given a general introductory History of the district, with Camden's remarks on Rydale ; annexed observations on the rise, progress, and dissolution of the Monasteries and Castles ,- ex- plained many of the ancient and obscure terms ; relieved the dull genealogical details and dry pe- digrees of families, by Biographical anecdotes ; interspersed the whole with Poetical Extracts, where they could be appropriately introduced, and embellished the work with many interesting en- gravings, three of which are from paintings of that distinguished artist, John Jackson, Esq. R. A., London ; lastly I have given, at the close, a few Biographical sketches of some of t^e illustri- ous personages connected with the district. But though the work has been thus extended to nearly 500 pages, yet the materials I have amassed f would have furnished matter for more ample de- tails : fearing however, that I should trespass too far upon the kind indulgence of my subscribers, I have confined myself to brief slietches of some of the PREFACE. Til places noticed, and altogether omitted others of minor importance. I know indeed of no district in Yorkshire, and perhaps there is no one of the same extent in the kingdom, which presents so ma- ny interesting objects, and is so fruitful in mate- rials for local History, In confirmation of this remark, I may just briefly observe, that in this neighbourhood occur the monasteries of Rievaulje, Byland, Newborough, Marton in Goitres, Keld- holme, Rosedale, Lestingham, Yeddingham, Kirk- ham, Wykeham, and Whitby ; to which might be added Mount-Grace, Grendale, Guisborough,8$c. ; the ancient and venerable castles of Helmsley, Gilling, Slingsby, Hinderskelf, She riff- Hut ton, Malton, Scarborough, Pickering, and Kirkby Moorside ; the ancient Camps at Ampleforth, Farndale and Cropton ; the Roman military ways from Malton by Appleton, Barton-le-Street, and Hovingham to Alborough, and from Malton through Caivthorn toDunsley Bay ; the beauti- ful seats of Castle Howard, Duncombe Park, Gilling, Newborough, Hovingham^ Oswaldkirk, Welburn, Nunnington, fyc. ; the noble families of the Mowbrays, Stutevilles, de Ross, Wakes, Hollands, Greystocks, Dacres, Gowers, Hastings, Wyvills, Buhners, Bruces, Percys, Nevilles, Lan- casters, and Latimers of remote antiquity ; and the more recent but not less noble proprietors, the Villiers, Howards, Manners, Cavendishes, Fitz- williams, Fauconbergs, Fairfaxes, Lumleys, Pres- tons, Widdingtons, Duncombes, Cholmleys, Sfc. Sfc.; these and other particulars, such as remarks on the beautiful scenery which presents itself in every PREFACE. direction ; the churches, monumental inscriptions, ancient coins, charity schools, and other local mat- ter, would furnish ample materials for a more extended work. In conclusion, I beg leave to take this public op- portunity of making my grateful acknowledgments, for the kind assistance I have received from many gentlemen at the commencement, and during the progress of the work. To the venerable the Arch- deacon of Cleveland, my ttianhs are due for his countenance and support, and several valuable com- munications ; to the Rev. Joseph Smith, of Kirkby Moorside, for various extracts from the " Church Registers; to the Rev. Thomas Alexander Brown, of Nunnington, for the great interest he has taken in the work, and for the numerous and valuable contributions he has made to it ; also to the Rev. George Young, A. M.of Whitby, and Thos. Hind- erwell, Esq. Scarborough, whose works I have con- sulted : my thanks are also due to Thomas Jackson, Esq., R. A., for three beautiful engravings, pre- sented by him as an embellishment to the work ; to Mr. Bearcroft^for much interesting information; to Messrs. Atkinson, Harrison, Petch, Robinson, and Rev. Henry King, of Kirkby Moorside ; Mr. Caleb Fletcher, of Keldholme, to Pudsey Dawson, Esq., of Sinnington manor, Mi . Smith, of Ness, Mr. Bointon of Pickering, and many other gen- tlemen for several obliging communications. Having thus explained my object, and expressed my obligations, I commit the volume to the Public, with a sincere desire that they may benejit by the perusal of it. SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. Mr. Thomas Abbey, Button. W. Abbey, Branton Green. . Agricultural and Geological Society, Scarborough. Francis Atkinson, Esq. Kirkby. Moor side. Mr. John Atkinson, do. James Atkinson, Esq. York. Messrs. Baldwin, Cradock, and Joy, London. Mr. Robert Barker, Kirkby- Moor side. William Barker, Lestingham. Rev. J. A. Barron, No. 1. Great James' Street, Bedford Row, London. Mr. G. Barton, Malton. Baines, Bookseller, Leeds. Bearcroft, Kirkby-Moorside. Miss Bearcroft, do. Mr. Belcher, Solicitor, Whitby. Charles Belcher, do. William Wood Bentley, Helmsley. Thomas Bird, jun. Pickering. Bird, Artist, IVhitby. Birdsall, Surgeon, Pickering. Bointon, Solicitor, do. W. Bottomley, Esq. Scarborough. Robert Bower, Esq. Welham. Mr. John Bowes, Hull. John Bowes, Kirkby-Moorside. Joseph Bowron, Ayton. John Bayle, Hull. Rev. Thomas Alexander Brown, Nunnington< b x SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. Col. Brown, St. Vincent's, West Indies. C. Brown, Esq. Great Coram Street, London. Mr. Bulmer, Surgeon, Helmsley. Bumby, Thirsk. Robert Campion, Esq. WJiitby. Rev. Arthur Cayley, A. B. Rector of Normanby. Sir George Cayley, Bart. Brompton. Francis Chantrey, Esq. R. A. F. R. S. F. S. A. &c., London. Mr. T. Chapman, JSlsineur, Denmark* John Chapman, Merchant, London. Chapman, Slingsby. Chapman, Surgeon, KirUby -Moor side > John Choplin, do. Clark, Barnby. John Clarke, Leeds. fe. Clarkson, jun. Esq. Kirkham Abbey , Malton. ^Edward Cleaver, Esq. Nunnington. Miss Cleaver, Brighton. Mr. Cole, Bookseller, Scarborough, 5 copies. Cole, Kirkby-Moorside. W. Collier, WJdtby. Rev k Thomas Comber, A. B., Rector of Oswald- kirk. W. B. Cook, Esq. M. P. John Cross, Esq. F, S. A. &c. &c.,Hutt. W. Danby, Esq. Stvinton, Bedale. Rev. E. Day, Scagglethorpe. Dr. Drake, Langton. Francis Drake, Esq. do. Davies, Esq k Scarborongk* SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 1 Pudsey Dawson, Esq. Sinmngton Manor House. Mrs. Dawson, Scarborough. Mr. William Hey Dikes, Hull Thomas Dixon, NorthaUerton. Miss Eagle, Pickering. Mr. W. Easterby, Kirhby-Moorside. Christopher Ellerker, do. W. Ellerker, do. M. Ellerker, do. M. Fen wick, do. Charles Fisher, do. Caleb Fletcher, Keldholm. Thomas Fletcher, IVhitby. W. Fletcher, Kirhby-Moorside. George Frank, do. A. Fraser, Edinburgh. Garbutt, Solicitor, Kirhby-Moorside. Gibson, M. G. S. Stratford, Essev. W. Gibson, York. &ev. Edmund Gray, Kirby Misperton. Mr. Green, Artist, York. Rev. Mr. Greenwood, Malton. Mr. Thomas Haigh, Kirhby-Moorside. John Hall, Castleton. Harrison, Surgeon, Kirhby-Moorside. M. C. Harrison, London. John Hartas, Sinnington Grange. W. Haydon, London. C. Hayes, Pichering. Thomas Hinderwell, Esq. Scarborough. Xii SUBSCRIBERS* NAMES. Mr. John Hodgson, Narvton. John Holliday, Kirkby -Moor side. John Holt, Esq. Wttitby. Eenjamin Hunter, Esq. do. Miss Martha Hunter, do. Robert Hunter, Esq. London. Mr. Simon Hutchinson, Helmsley. John Jackson, Esq. R. A. Member of the Roman Academy of St. Luke, London, 2 copies. Rev. James Jackson, Green Hammerton. Joseph Jefferson, Thirsk. Mr. Thomas Johnson, Academy, Wetherby. George Johnson, Collicrgate, York. *Y . Johnson, jun. Thirsk. Rev. William Kay, A. M. Fellow of Lincoln Col- lege, Oxon. Mr. W. Kay, Kirkby-Moorside. Rev. William Kearey, Rector of Nunnington. Thomas Keld, Esq. Scarborough. Rev. Henry Kendall, Lestingham. Frederick Kendall, A. B. Vicar of RiccaL Kenry King, Kirkby-Moorside. Mr. Joseph Knaggs, Surgeon. Hon. Marmaduke Langley, Wykeham Abbey. Mr. Thomas Langdale, Bookseller, Ripon. Miss Legard, Ganton Hall. Mr. William Lockey, Leeds. John Lund, Esq. Scarborough, 2 copies. Rev. J. Lupton, A. B. Christ Church, Oxon. Charles Lutridge, Esq. Hull. Library at Mickleby, near Whitby. SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. xiii Rev. Michael Mackereth, Thornton. Charles Mackereth, do. George Mackereth, Hull. M. A. Mackereth, Sinnington. Mr. R. Marfitt, Pickering. R. Marshall, East Newton] Samuel Martin, Esq. Hull. Mr. John Milner, Helmsley. R. Nicholls, Thornton. George Nicholson, Eagles' Cliff, near Yarm. James Northcote, Esq. R. A. London. Mr. James Oliver, Leeds. George Ouston, Whitby. John Cowham Parker, Esq. Hull. Mr. G. Peacock, Nunnington. Dennis Peacock, Hull, 2 copies. W. Peacock, Nunnington. Peat, Bookseller, Thirsk, 10 copies. Joseph Robinson Pease, Esq. Hesslervood, Mr. Peirson, Solicitor, Pickering. Samuel Peirson, York. Robert Petch, Solicitor, Kirkby-Moorsidt, Philips, Beadlam Grange. Isaac Priestman, Malton, Rev. William Preston, Rector of Bulmer. Richard Prowde, Rector of Hinder/veil, Mr. Richard Ripley, Wltitby. John Rivis, Sherburn. J. B. Roberts, Whitby. Christopher Robinson, Esq. Kirkby Moor$id9. SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES- Mr. Routh, ThirsJt. Roulston, Surgeon, Helperby. R. Russell, Cawton. William S almond, Esq. York. Mr. John Scarf, do. Rev. R. B. Scholefield, Thornton. William Scoresby, Esq. Hull. Mr. Thomas Scott, Oulston. Seaton, Great Ouseburn. Philip Seaton, Kirkby -Moor side. William Selby, Esq. Sower by > Mr. James Seddon, Kirkby-Moorside. Michael Sedgwick, Hutton Rudby. William Shepherd, Esq. Dowtliwaite Dale* Robert Shepherd, Esq. Bowforth. Rev. Mr. Simpson, Helmsley. Mr. Frederick Smith, London. Smith, Ness. William Smith, Marion. Rev. Joseph Smyth, A. B. Vicar of Kirkby-Moor* side. Mrs. Smith, Newbuilding. Mr. R. Smithson jim. Bookseller, Malt on. Stanfield, Wakefeld. Henry Steward, Whitby. Charles Stokes, Esq. London. Mr. Tate, Helmsley. W. Thompson, Thirsk. George Thompson, Whitby. Thorpe, JBeckhouse. W. Thorowgood,Zow?ow. John Tindall, Esq. Cliff, Scarborough. Rev. H. J. Todd. Setterington. "William Travis, Esq. do. Mr. Trowsdale, Northallerton. Rev. W. Walker, Slingsby. John Walker, Esq. Malton. Mr. James Walker, Kirkby -Moor side. William Walkinhavve, Esq. M. D. Trinidad. John Watson, Esq. Kirkby-Moorside. Mr. Charles Alfred Watson, JVakefield. William Wells, Esq. Pickering \ Mr. Westoby, Humbleton. Thomas Whytehead, Esq. Nawton. Mr. Whytehead, Solicitor, Thirsh. Mr. Wilson, Surgeon, Hovingham. Rev. J. Winter, Coxwold. Mr. Isaac Wilson, Hull. Richard Wilson, Esq. Scarborough. Mr. E. Williams, London. Saville Wind, Harum. John Woodall. jun. Esq. Scarborough* Mr. Benjamin Wood, Thirsk. Richard Woodwark, Whitby. Rev. Francis Wrangham, A. M. F. R. S. Arch- deacon of Cleveland, 2 copies. Rev. George Young, A. M. Whitby. TABLE OF CONTENTS, Kirkdale Cave 1 General History 45 Kirkby-Moorside 79 Sleightholme Dale. .,.124 History of Monaste- 2 ,_ cries. y Keldholm Priory .... 1 39 Kirkdale 148 Muscoates 160 Nunnington 162 Stonegrave 186 East Newton 197 Laysthorp 1 98 West Ness 199 lloringham 199 East Ness 209 Colton, Wath, and ? 212 Fryton y Oswaldkirk ........ 212 Newton Grange 228 Ampleforth College. .233 Slingsby 234 Salton 252 Edstene 255 Normanby 256 Kirby Misperton . .. .257 Sinnington 261 Little Edstone and > Marton ^ 28( IMiddleton ,2Sl Pickering 286 Godeland 305 Rosedale Priory 306 Whitby 308 PAGE PAGE Thornton .... . . . . . . 316 Ebberstone 330 Brompton 333 Wykeham 337 Huttou Bushell 340 East & West Ayton. . 340 Hackness ;..341 Scarborough 344 Ganton 349 Yeddingham 351 Scampston 352 Malton 353 Kirkham 362 Castle-Howard 365 Sheriff- Button 370 Craike 377 Marton in Galtres. ...379 Newbrough 380 Cox wold . 382 Byland Abbey 386 Gilling 395 Caw ton 404 Grimston 406 Helmsley ;....406 Duncombe Park 412 Rievaulx Abbey ..... .421 Pockley 431 Harum 432 Bilsdale Chapel ;435 Lestingham 435 Antiquities on the > Moors y 447 Mineralogy 456 Biographical Sketches 464 OF A CAVE, CONTAINING FOSSIL TEETH AND BONES, DISCOVERED AT KIRKDALE, IN YORKSHIRE. I SHOULB not have entered on the publication of this Memoir, had I not been urged to it by several literary gentlemen of the first respec- tability ; who observed, that the valuable accounts already published, were inserted in voluminous and expensive works, adapted more for public Institutions, than for general circulation ; and, as I had paid particular attention to the Cave from the first discovery of it, they hoped, that 1 would not withold from public notice my thoughts on so interesting a subject : being thus invited, I have commenced the work. I shall endeavour to present this Volume to the public, in as interesting a manner, as I possibly can ; and though I may differ in a few things from my literary friends, I shall not claim the charac- ter of infallibility ; but shall leave my thoughts to the judgment of those to whom I offer them, Difference of opinion is entertained on most sub- jects, and is sometimes particularly useful ; it rous- es investigation to action, and removes the vail which had been drawn before the face of truth, A 2 THE INTERESTING SCENERY IN THE In detailing my observations on the subject of the Cave; I shall first offer some thoughts, on the Interesting scenery in the immediate >icim" * THE INTERESTING SCENERY IN THE cultivation was det to work, and pages of history \vere commenced* It is impossible for us to have any guide but imagination to the state of this dis- trict, nearly four thousand years ago ; what it was, or what Animals then inhabited this clime; is known with certainty, only to the Supreme Being. We now behold it as it is, we trace it by the light of his- tory, through the lapse of many centuries, beyond which probability is our only guide. Who would have had an idea of the phenomenon, which has rushed upon the public mind, as it relates to the animal remains in the Cave at Kirkdale ? Little did the boy think, who stepped amongst the bushes, with which the mouth of the Cave was overgrown ; or the woodman, when felling the oak ; that he was walking on a spot, which in some future time, would interest the literary world, and draw many from the smoke of populous and poli&hed cities and towns, and from the re- tired cloisters of colleges, to explore a Cavern, then unknown, and to visit a situation, which before had been comparatively unobserved! But unexpected circumstances every day unfold some mysteries, and give fresh stimulus to the energies of the human mind. The situation of Kirkdale was pleasing to the lovers of retirement, 'before this species of celebrity was attached to it ; but now it is interesting to many, who, had it not been for this circumstance would not have been familiar, even, with its name. Thus places and persons are brought to public nolice by accident ; science is improved in the REFERENCES. 1 1 Former outline of the quarry. 2 2 Present face of the quarry. 3 Present entrance of the cave. 4 Portion of the cave destroyed by quarrying. 5 Fissure closed upwards. 6 Elephant's tooth found here. 7 Original entrance* 8 Chamber, or spacious opening. (DIP JIT KIRKDALE / AND A PLAN OF THE INTERIOR. THE PLAN WAS TAKEN AND DRAWN BY WILLIAM S ALMOND, ESQ.; OF YORK. YICINITY OF THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. 5 same manner ; the purposes of Providence are unfolded by different incidents; and the acquisition of Knowledge is often proposed to the understand- ing, in a way calculated to produce the most powerful effects. Here indeed beauty, interest, and mystery, are combined ; here the geologist finds ample bcdpe for the exercise of his talents ; the antiquary gratifies his taste ; the botanist has range for the pursuit of his favourite study ; and the retir- ing student can hide himself from public observa- tion, and feast on the narrative of some favourite author, or collect fresh ideas from the volume of nature, which lies open to his view. I shall not dwell any longer, on general observations in the immediate Vicinity of the Cave, but proceed to its Geological Situation, and to a Description of the Cave itself. GEOLOGICAL SITUATION OF THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. KIRKDAI.E lies on the side of a Road leading from Kirkby-Moorsideto Helmsley, about 25 miles N. N. E. of the ancient and venerable city of York, a fen miles from the foot of the eastern termination of the I! arable ton II ills, facing the direction of Scarbo- rough, and subsiding into the beautiful and fertile vale of Pickering, and not far from the southern extremity of the bleak and elevated district called 6 GEOLOGICAL SITUATION, the eastern and Cleveland Moor lands, inhabited principally by the reel grouse, and a small species of sheep known by (he name of Moor Sheep. The under stratum of this Valley, as observed by Pro- fessor Buckland, is composed ofstratified blue clay, which is identical with that which at Oxford and Weymouth reposes on similar lime stone to that of Kirkdale, and containing subordinately beds of in- flammable bituminous shale, like that of Kirneridgo in Dorsetshire. On the south of the Vale you perceive the Ho\vardian Hills, gradually sloping into the plain, and showing by their vigorous and diversified foliage the richness of their soil, and the abundance of their produce. Pdrsuing them towards the east, your view is directed to the escarpment of the chalk which terminates the Wolds towards Scar- borough ; and on the North, the Vale is bounded by a range of limestone reaching eastward upwards of 50 miles, from the FJ amble ton Hills near llclm- sley, to the Sea at Scarborough. The breadth of the vale is various, in some places it is 4 or 5 miles across, in others G, and in others 7 or 8. The belt of limestone which skirts the North ofit, is intersec- ted by parallel valleys, called Dales, through which rivers run from the Moor lands, and disburden themselves into the Dei-went. These rivers are, the Rye, the Rical, the Hodge-beck, the Dove, the Seven-beck, and the Co?ta. The only way by which these rivers can make their escape from the vale of Pickering, is by a deep gorge extending nearly from the town of Malton to OP THE CAVE AT KIUKDALE. 7 tlie village of Kirivham; the stoppage of which would lay the whole vale under water, and produce the most direful effects. The Caye is on the left hand of the road leading from Helmsley to Kirkby-Moorsitle, on the slope of the hill which sabsides into Hodge-beck,* the original mouth of it is 132 feet from the beck, and *}3 feet above it ; its present entrance is 38 feet from its former, having been laid open that distance to procure stone to mend the roads. The present floor is 2 feet above the part removed, or what the workmen call a lift or bed above it; the part of the rooftaken away was of the same height as that which remains, making the height of the first open- * The entrance into the Cave, and about half the extent of it, are in the Welburu estate, the joint proper- ty of the Rev. Arthur Cayley, M. A. Rector of Norman- by, the Rev. Francis Wrangham M. A. F. R. S. Arch- deacon of Cleveland, and Smith, M. I), in right of their respective Ladies ; the other part of it enters into a field 1'ie property of Robert Fetch, Esq. Solicitor of Kirkby- Moorside. Those gentlemen liberally allowed the clear- ing out theCave, and collecting the bones and teeth, being willing that they should fall into the hands of such per- sons, who would deposit them in public institutions, or otherwise take care of them, to preserve (he interesting memorials of this wonderful cavern, to which liberality nnd ready acquiescence with the wishes of men of science, the literary world is much indebted. It deserves to be recorded, that VV. Salmond, Esq. of York, employed workmen at a considerableexpence, and superintended the work till the greater part of the rami- fications of the cave were cleared out ; he likewise took and drew a plan of it, which is engraved in Mr. Buck- land's Work, and which also appears in the present publication. 8 DESCRIPTION OF THE ing4ff. Sin. the present entrance being 2ft. Sin and the width 5ft. The elevation of the face of the quarry above the roofis 18ft. but the incumbent land continues to rise for a considerable distance. The rock perforated by the Cave is composed of limestone, partly oolite, and partly of the harder and more compact blue limestone. The compact beds assume various shades, some are light blue, some have a yellowish cast, and others are a dark blue approaching to black. In examining the Cave a few days since, I obser- ved that its floor was of the compact blue limestone, mixed with patches of Chert ; that it was the lowest bed of that description in the series, and separates it from the oolitic formation, containing organic re- mains The stranger therefore by tracing that bed to the slope of the hill in the direction of the beck, may ascertain the position of the original floor, and identify its relation to the slope of the bank. The thickness of the strata is from one foot to three feet six inches. This rock had long been quarried for tbe purpose of procuring stone to repair the highroads; but it was not till July 1821, that the Cave in question was intersected ; the workmen having finished the removal of a portion oi it, were taking away what they call the rubbish, to lay the rock bare for the removal of another part, when they discovered, a little below the surface, the mouth of the cavern ; and as they proceeded, saw bones and teeth. They thought the discovery very singular, and concluded that animals had been CAVE AT KIRKDALE, 9 buried there, which some years since died of a dis- ease called the murrain, which proves that they from existing circumstances conceived that the Cavo had been accessible from the slope of the hill, and that the mouth of it had been filled up either by rub- bish which had been placed against it, or which had fallen down from the higher ground. One of the work- ^nen said also, that he had found a few bones two or three years before in the same quarry, not many yards distant from the floor of the cave. These, I conceive, had glided down through a vertical fissure, which had conveyed them in an oblique direction, in consequence of a part of the crevice being filled with marly clay ; the other part being open to afford them a passage. A crevice of this description ex- isted in the floor of that part of the cave which has been removed, which I saw and examined. There is no doubt of this opening being a natural cavern, that it was the residence of Hyaenas, and that re- mains of other animals found in it were such as thejr killed and brought home, or finding them dead dragged them piecemeal to their den. The main direction of the cave is E. S. E. deviating: 9 from a straight line by several zig zags to the right and left, as seen by the prefixed plan.* Its greatest length is about 300 feet; the appearance of its inte- rior is particularly grotesque, it fills the mind with peculiar sensations ; and when you come to a place * I have copied the plan from that taken and drawa by W. Salmond, Esq., being in the cave with him when be was finishing his measurement for it, and knowing, it t be correct. P 10 DESCRIPTION OF THE where roads intersect each other, it furnishes you with the idea of a subterranean town ; and after ha- ling been shut out from day light three or four hour?, with a candle in your hand, and companions with you having lights, sometimes crawling on jour hands and knees, sometimes going on your breast, and at other times on your side, assuming nearly the ver- micular motion, through narrow passes, you are pleased with the return of day, as in your retreat from the interior region you draw near the mouth of the damp and gloomy cavern. The Cave is intersected by vertical fissures, in. two of \t hich a person can stand erect, one of them leaves the main road in a winding direction and D comes into it again : it has several small passages, one of which has not been traced to its termination, and the extremity of another may be seen in a cre- vice which appears on the face of the quarry. .From the present entrance, on either side of the cave is a horizontal bed of compact blue limestone, with its edge uneven and smoothed, perhaps by the trickling of water down it, when the cave was kept from the access of atmospheric air, by its mouth being closed by the rubbish before mentioned. The discontinuance of this bed from one side of the cave to the other, is the cause of the opening: though by what means the bed was fire interrupted and brokei^cannot perhaps be satisfactorily explained* * It occured to me that in the formation of the sec- ondary rock at the general inundation, this, and all other cares and fissures existing in the limestone, might have been produced by the accumulation of loamy clay, i CAVE AT KIRKDALE. II Farther in, the appearance is different, the roof and sides become irregularly arched, presenting a wild appearance. Hereyou perceive hanging from the roof, masses of chert and stalactite. On the bottom of the cave, before it was cleaned out, was? a sediment of mud or loam, of different thicknesses according to the elevation or depression of the floor : in some places the protuberances of the floor came nearly to the surface, in others they quite made their appearance, in others the mud was from 6 to, 8 inches thick. Stalagmite adhered to the sides of the Cave, some of it continued to the floor, and then turned off at right angles above the mud. Some distance in the cavern, the stalagmite a- bounded more than at the entrance ; comparatively little of it was seen where the rock was compact and void of fissures ; in some parts there was none, in some places it ran from one side to the other, which interrupted the junction of the beds ; as lime in so- lution may be pouied intaa mould r and when it is con- solidated place a ridge of sand on the top of it; pour more lime in the same state, and when that is hardened, remove it from the mould, take away the sand, and the result will be a cavern, the space being left which the sand occupied. This conjecture was suggested to me, by observing that between all the beds of limestone is some of this inarly clay, as if placed there for the purpose of pack- ing them ; itis so on cither side of the cave, going horizon- tally from the floor of it to the face of the quarry, corresponding nearly in thickness with that which was on the floor of the cave when it was first discovered ; and it is probable, that when the water subsided from, the land at the close of the catastrophe, it carried away the greater part of the loam, and produced the cavern, and a part at least of that in which the bones werq afterwards imbedded, might have remained en the floor*. 12 AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL REMAINS covering the whole of the floor in patches ; it waft so thick, that a man could not enter till it had been removed ; it was perhaps two feet thick in other parts, where it had fallen in drops from the roof; stalagrnitic accumulations had been raised on its surface, sonic of which are very large and flat, resembling, according to Mr. Buckland's description, cakes of bees' wax ; but more commonly they are of the shape of a cow's pap, the name given them by the workmen,* The fissures before mentioned, in which a man may stand upright, are crusted over with stalactite, and another fissure inclining to the south is very interesting, by candle light ; it appears like the sides of a rock glazed over with ice ; it is generally wet from the percolation, of water from the incumbent land. AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL RE- MAINS FOUND IN THE CAVE ATKIRKDALE. HAVING noticed the geological situation of the Cave, and given a description of it, I shall proceed to notice the animal remains found in it. It. would be gratifying to those interested in the Subject, were it possible to restore the cave to its * I have in my possession a specimen of that resemb- ling bees' wax, upwards of 8 inches thick ; and also Another of the conical description like the cow's pap, measuring 26 inches in circumference at the base, and 1 1 and a half inches high. FOUND IN THE CAVE AT RlRKUALE. 13 primitive state, and to give them an opportunity of pursuing the necessary investigation from the begin- ning; it would prevent misconceptions, and change some ideas which have been conceived for those of another description ; it would give competent per- sons an opportunity of examining the bones ag they were picked out of the mud ; they would have the opportunity of seeing the rock removed by degrees, which had assisted in the preservation of these ani- mal remains, and hid them from public view : they could separate the specimens from their matrices with their own hands, and examine their association, and might pursue the workmen through all the ra- mifications of the subterranean cavern. But this is not practicable, the only substitute is description, which is an appeal to the imagination, and is the only subterfuge when identity is inaccess- ible. Let us for a moment suspen.d our scientific investigation, and regale our imagination with accidental circumstances as they occurred at the cave at Kirkdale. The reader would have been amused, had he been present to have witnessed the scene of torch light in the interior of the place ; to have seen men of science exchanging the splendid apartments of mansions for a den of Hyaenas, creep- ing on their hands and knees through the slender passes, where once carnivorous animals growled, visiting those abodes to which they brought their prey, and in which they devoured one another. To have stood without the entrance of the cave, would not have been lesi interesting ; there you might have beheld a rustic's frock investing a man of let* 4 AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL REMAINS tors ; you might have seen him rising to his stature at the mouth of the explored cavern, equiped with knee caps and trovvsers, his head boand about with an handkerchief, his hands and face patched with mud, and nearly assimilated to the colour of the cave in which he had been immured. Wits may have employed their talents on beholding the no- velty of the scene, and have satirized the luxuries of an Hyaenas' den ; but one in eager pursuit of the evidence produced by it, would consider it as amply repaying him for all his expence and labour. Reflecting on the state of Kirkdale before cul- tivation had changed the face of it, we form a thou- sand conjectures, we pursue the clue of history to its termination, and in the confines of that dark- ness which prevents further certainty we stand with regret, we wish to go further, but find our limits circumscribed. This country was once all forest, all wild, all unknown, excepting to beasts of prey, or to other animals which became their victims. The probability of more caves being in the lime- stone, in the neighbourhood, may some day ripen into facts, and make this once obscure place so pop- ular as to kindle poetic fire, and cause it to vie in celebrity almost with that of ancient Troy. The bones inhumed in the cave at Kirkdale are not mineralized, but in the state of grave bones ; and are more or less decayed according to their texture, or the probable length of time which they had re- mained in that situation. Some of them werd invested with stalagmite; this was a necessary con- sequence, as the water percolating through FOUND IN THE CAVE AT KIRK.DALE. 15 crevices of the limestone rock would become im- pregnated with calcareous matter, and running- down the sides of the cave would leave the property with which it was charged behind, and form an incrusta- tion called stalactite; sometimes the water would run too rapidly down the sides of the cave to deposit that matter on them, but would convey it to the floor, and there leave the sediment which is called stalagmite; sometimes it drops from the roof to the floor, and forms conical substances of the same description. The Stalactite and Stalagmite are of the same nature, but differently named from their various situations ; the bones therefore being some of them on the surface of the mud, and olhers on the protuberances of the floor of the bare rock, would become either invested with stalagmite, or they would adhere to the bottom of it. I have specimens of both descriptions, and a few insulated bones are included within a thin crust of stalagmite, as if they were glazed over with ice ; the stalagmite and argillaceous matrix had a considerable share in the preservation of the bones, which is known by the state of those which had lain in sand and gravel, exposed to the constant access of water at the mouth of the cave, which were so far decayed as to moul- der as soon as they were exposed to excess of atmospheric air. The bones in the cave were in general in high preservation, and their substance remained nearly as it was at first. It has been ascertained by im- mersing fragments of them in an acid till the phos- phate and carbonate of lime were removed; that 16 AN ACCOUNT OF TflE ANIMAL UEMA1NS nearly the whole of their original gelatine had been preserved. It was before observed that the area of that part of thu cave which has been removed, was 11 feet wide and 38 feet long, extending from the original entrance to the present one ; a portion of the un- der part of the bed which formed the floor of the original mouth may yet be seen, in the bank which bounds the quarry on the west. This spacious place contained the greater part of the bones of the larg- er animals, as the elephant, rhinoceros, the hippopo- tamus, and others. This appears to have been the most convenient place for them, as it was the most room}' ; for at the end of it the cave was contract- ed, and they had to ascend a step up to it. This area may be considered as the great hall, through which the Hyaenas entered to the interior; to it thev brought their prey from the vicinity of the cave. Here we behold a space 11 feet by 30 feet, cover- ed with boneslike a dog kennel ; they were not in heaps but regularly distributed amongst the argil- laceous sediment ; most of them were imbedded in it ; a few lay horizontally near the top, with one side appearing, others with tbe ends sticking out vertically, and others inclined at high angles. The Rev. Joseph Smyth, of Kiikbymoorside, has the fragment of a thigh bone of an elephant, which was found here, and many other valuable specimens of teeth and bones which were here entombed. According to the account of Professor Buck- land, who obtained his knowledge principally by comparison with specimens preserved in museums, J?OUND IN THG CAVE AT KIRKDALE. 17 the animal remains discovered in the cave at Kirk- dale are referable to 23 species ; Hyaena, tiger, bear, wolf, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, ox, three species of deer, hare, rabbit, water rat, mouse, raven, pigeon, lark, duck, and probably a snipe. Though the number of bones found here were so great, very few of them were whole ; and those which were so, were bones of the more compact de- scription ; many of them were fragments, and great numbers were splinters ; in some places were heaps of small splinters and comminuted fiagments of bone?, mixed with teeth of most of the species of a- nimals whose remains were here discovered ; they were lying at the bottom of the den, cemented to- gether by stalagmite, forming an association called osseous Breccia, or bone imbedded in stalagmite. I have the tusk of an Hyaena, and an incisor tooth of the same animal, with teeth of rats, in a piece of sponge-like stalagmite, or a mixture of stalagmite with loam ; it has a grotesque and interesting ap- pearance, and the enamel of the teeth is as perfect, and of as good a colour, as when in the animal's head. I discovered the tusk by picking out a piece of loose loam, to examine if there were any speci- mens in the interior of the mass, The tusk at present by its situation in the breccia, reminds you of a bust in a niche, the top of the incisor tooth and the point of the tusk being placed in the relation to each other, in the same way as they would be in the animal's head. I have also pieces of skull in stalagmite, and other fragments detached ; but I do ftot recollect any skull having been found complete. 18 AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL REMAINS The pieces which were preserved were of the stronger and more compact description ; a few jaw bones of the Hysena were almost perfect, but none to my knowledge quite so : there were many frag- ments containing two thirds of the jaw, and other pieces less : the teeth of the Hyajna were more nu- merous than of- any other animal, excepting the water rat ; the enamel, is generally beautiful, re- taining a high polish and being very white ; many of the fangs were tender, and some decayed on being exposed to the air, others remained firm, and are likely to continue so; the astragalus also, and other hard and solid bones of the tarsus and carpus joints, and those of the feet, are perfect ; and in the case of all the other animals, the number of teeth and solid bones of the tarsus and carpus is more than twenty times as great as could have been sup- plied by the individuals whose other bones we find mixed with them. Teeth of the Hyaena are so abundant as to sanc- tion a conjecture, that two or three Hundred of these animals at leapt must have died in this cave ; and a great proportion of them were found from the pre- sent entrance to the first great fissure and in it ; after the workmen had penetrated into this road, they were stopped by the accumulation of stalag- mite, which was so thick as to prevent any one passing till it was removed ; the water had run down' (he sides of the cave, and turning off at right angles on the floor had deposited the calcareous matter with which it was charged, until it had nearly filled the cave. When this was removed FOUND IV THE CAVB AT KIRKDALE. 19 bones and teeth were seen in abundance, adhering to the under part of the stalagmitic mass. Having removed this obstruction they proceeded to the first tall and roomy fissure, where they found teeth and bones in great numbers, principally those of the Hyaena. One might suppose from this cir- cumstance that the animals went here to die, or that the victors dragged the prey of their own species here for the convenience of devouring it, and made it also as it were the refectory for lesser portions of other animals, which they either found dead in the neighbourhood of their den, or destroyed and brought home. The workmen under the direction of Mr. Salmond, continued their operations until they cleared out the ramifications represented in the plan ; one indeed has not been pursued to its termination; but the expectation is not sanguine of the part un- explored containing any animal remains. As they cleared away the loam or mud from the bottom of the cave, they continued to find bones more or few- er, though but few comparatively were seen beyond the first great fissure. The learned Professor already cited observes, that many of the Hyaenas died before their first set of milk-teeth had been shed, as it appeared by the state of these fangs they had not fallen out by absorption ; here were many teeth of old one?, some of them were very old ; they were worn down near- ly to the stump by long use. The number of teeth belonging to the different species of animals bear the following proportion : . The teeth of this animal, and frag* C2. 20 AX ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL REMAINS merits ofjaws, were more in number than of any other, except the tvater rat : this is not surprising when \ve consider them as the masters of the den, and the destroyers of the other animals, whose re- mains were discovered among them. H is probable that more than three Hundred of that species had died at Kirkdale, as the mud that wis thrown out of the cave before the bones and teeth were thought so valuable, beina: turned over * t O and over afterwards by men, women, and children in quest of bones, great numbers were picked out by them. I have in an evening 1 purchased lots of live or six person?, who had been the whole of the day in collecting them : the colour of these was in- jured :>y their having been exposed to the wet. I was told by one of the workmen, that when this mud was first thrown out of the cave, after every shower of rain which had washed away the mud from the teeth, the surface of it was studded with them. A quantity of it was afterwards thrown into Hodge- beck, and after every flood numbers were found there ; tusks, molar teeth, also canine and incisor ones, were all plentiful. TIGER. Of this animal but few remains were discovered, three or four large canine teeth, and a few molar ones,, so that there had been but one ani- mal probably of this species. UKAR. The bones of the bear were also scarce; I have seen four tusks of this animal, one of which I bought of a person whose son digged it out from amongst the rubbish before named, at the price of one Guinea and a half; it is now in the possession FOUND IV THE CAVE AT KIIIKDALE. 21 of Mr. John Gibson, of Stratford ; one of these tusks i* 1 rjken, and is now in a collection belonging to a public institution, WOLI\ Of the wolf I have seen 8 or 10 molar teeth, and a few canine ones ; some of them were brought to me after the cave had been cleared out, and were said to have been fonnd in the loamy clay on the slope of the hill, which had been thrown out from the great area of the cave which has been re- moved. Fox. The tusks of the fox are plentiful, and likewise the molar and other teeth of that animal, with fragments ofjaws. WEASEL. The remains of the weasel were scarce, only two or three jaws, and a few teeth were dis- covered. ELEPHANT. I have only heard of six or seven teeth of this animal, and some of them were broken. Mr. Buckland speaks of about 10, probably some of his friends had some of which I had not heard ; those teeth must have belonged to very young animals, as the longest diameter was not more than three inches. HIPPOPOTAMUS From what 1 have seen of the remains of the Hippopotamus, but one of these animals could have been devoured by the Hyaenas in the cave at Kirkdale, as only a few molar teeth, and a few fragments of its canine and incisor teeth, were discovered. RHINOCEROS. The teeth of the Rhinoceros are not so scarce ; many have been found of various descriptions belonging to this species of animal ; 1 conceive three or four of them must have died in 2 AX ACCOUNT OF THE ANIMAL REMAINS the vicinity of (he cave, from the size of some of the teeth ; one of them at leas! must have been a^ed. O HORSE. It was doubted at first whether the remains of an animal of this species were among the collection : this doubt however has been remo- ved, and it is thought that one horse might have been the prey of those ravenous creatures. Ox. The number of the teeth of (his ruminating Zs animal were next to those of the Hyaena ; it ap- pears that they had been more numerous in the vicinity of the cave, and had been not only an easy prey, but the favourite food of these savage depre- dators. DEER. There were different snecies of this animal, perhaps three the fallow deer, the elk, and the stag or red deer. HARE, and RABBIT. The remains of the Hare and Rabbit are scarce ; a few broken jaws, and a few thigh bones, are all which belong to them. WATER RAT. The teeth and jaws of the wa- ter rat were more numerous than those of any o- ther animal ; they were found in every part of the cave, and in every association ; wherever there was a piece of osseous breccia, they formed a part of it ; some pieces were made up entirely of them, hun- dreds of jaws and teeth compose one mass; most of the jaws which had not been injured by the Hy- aenas, which are supposed to have devoured the other part of them, were perfect ; and the detached teeth which perhaps fell through the lips of the Hyaenas when devouring the rats, were perfect; and some of them broken, as if snapped by the teeth of FOUND IN THE GAVE AT KIlUtDALE. 23 their devouring adversaries; one part was perhaps devoured, and the other lay afterwards on the floor of the cave unnoticed. RAVEN, PIGEON, LARK, DUCK, and perhaps SNIPE. The bones of these birds belong principal- ly to the wing, the greatest part are those of the ulna ; the reason why they were not devoured is supposed by Mr. Buckland to have arisen from the position of the quill feathers on them, and the small quantity of fleshy matter which exists on the outer extremity of the wings of birds ; the former afford- ing an obstacle, and the latter no temptation to the Hyaenas to devour them To these observations I add the discovery of fragments of the horns of deer ; they were not numerous, and the parts which were found were those near the head. 1 had one which I brought from the Cave, and which is figured in the " Geo- logical Survey of the Yorkshire Coast," lately published by the Rev. T. Young and Mr. Bird ; it is the base of a horn, having two antlers rising out of it, which appears to have fallen off from the bead, and to have been brought borne by the Hyasna and devoured, excepting that solid part. Another very remarkable proof of the residence of Hyaenas here, is the discovery of their faeces in the cave : it is a solid, calcareous matter, which has been proved to be the excrement of animals which fed on bones, resembling the substance known in the old Materia Medica by the name of album gras- cum ; its external form is that of a sphere irregular- ly compressed, as in the faeces of Sheep, and varying 2* THE KATURAL HISTORY from half an .inch to an inch and a half in diameter; its colour is yeilowishvvhite; according to the ac- count of Mr. Buckland it was identified by the Keeper of the Menagerie at Exeter-change, as resembling both in form and appearance that of the spotted or Cape Hyaena, which he stated to be greedy of bones beyond all other beasts under his care ; having been analized it has been found to contain phosphate of lime, carbonate of lime, and a very small portion of the triple phosphate of ammo- nia, and magnesia, and retains no animal matter. As this work professes to give an account of a deu once inhabited by Hyaenas, as the principal masters of the place, it may be acceptable to the reader, if we give some particulars of the natural history of that animal, which we have collected from authentic sources. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HYAENA. THE HYJENA is found in Asiatic Turkey, Syria, Persia, and in some parts ot Africa, especially Bar- bary and Abyssinia. It is an animal of the dog kind, which it in many respects resembles, although too strongly marked to be strictly reduced to any type. It is nearly of the size of a Wolf, and has some similitude to that animal in the shape of its head and body ; the head at first sight does not appear to dif- fer, except that the ears of the Hyaena are longer . OF THE, HY2ENA. and more thin of hair; but upon observing more closely, we shall find the head broader, the nose flatter and not so pointed. The eyes are not placed so obliquely, but more like those of a dog. The legs, particularly the hinder ones, are longer than those either of the dog or wolf, and different from all other quadrupeds in having but four toes on the fore feet as well as the hinder ; its hair is of a dirty greyish colour marked with black, disposed ia waves down its body, its tail is short with longish hair; these are some of the most striking distinc- tions of the Hyaena, which nevertheless convey but a very confused notion of its form. The manner of holding its head is remarkable, it is somewhat like a dog pursuing the scent, with its nose near the ground. The head being held thus low the back appears elevated like that of a hog, which with a long bristly band of hair that runs all along, gives it nearly the air of that animal, and it is probable that from this similitude it first took its name, the word Hyaena being greek, and derived from Y<7, which signifies a sow ; though Pliny has derived the word from the latin, ab hiando, from its ferocious gaping to devour its prey. But no words can give an adequate idea of this animal's figure, deformity, and fierceness ; more savage and untameable than any other quadruped, it seems to be for ever in -a state of rage and rapacity, for ever growling, ex- cept when receiving its food, its eyes then glisten, the bristles of its back all stand upright, its head hangs low, and yet its teeth appear, all which give it a most frightful aspect, which a dreadful howl 26 THE NATURAL HISTORY tends to heighten ; this howl is very peculiar, its beginning resembles the voice of a man moaning^ and its latter part as if he were making a violent ef- fort to disburden his stomach ; as it is loud and frequent it might perhaps have been sometimes mistaken for that of a human voice in distress, and have given rise to the account of the ancients, who tell us that the Hyaena makes its moan to attract in- cautious travellers, and then to destroy them . How- ever this may be, it seems the most untractable of all quadrupeds ; nor does its courage fall short of its ferocity ; it defends itself against the lion, is a match for the panther, attacks the ounce, and seldom fails to conquer ; it is a solitary animal, residing in the caverns of mountains, in the clefts of rocks, or in dens that it has formed for itself under the earth. There is something particularly gloomy and savage in this creature, which seems to indicate extreme malignity of disposition, and its manners while in captivity correspond with this appearance, being in general fierce and untractable. The opinion so decidedly miantained by most keepers of wild beasts, that the Hyaena cannot be tamed, appears however to be erroneous, as there are at least two instances of the contrary on record, one by Mr. Pennant, who declares that he saw an Hyaena which had been made as tame as a dog ; and the other by Buffon, who assures us that in an exhibition of animals at Paris, in the year 17,73, there was an Hyaena which had been tamed when very young, and was apparently divested of all its natural malevolence of disposi- OF THE HY2ENA. 2 tion.* It lives by depredation like the wolf, but is much stronger and more courageous. It sometimes attacks men, carries off cattle, follows the flocl:, breaks open sheep-cotes by night, and ravages with insatiable voracity : its eyes shine by night, and it is asserted not without great appearance of truth, that it sees better by night than by day. When destitute of other provision, it scrapes open graves, and devours dead bodies. To these dispositions which are sufficiently noxious and formidable, the ancients have added numberless others, which have long since been known to be fabulous ; some have said that it has no joints in the neck, which how- ever all quadrupeds are known to possess ; that in- stead of teeth, it has one continued bone in the jaw ; and some have asserted the shadow of the Hyaena prevented the barking of dogs : these and other ab- surdities have been asserted of it, which shews the natural disposition of mankind, to load those who are already too guilty with accumulated reproach. Some very curious and authentic particulars re- specting the Hyaena, in the country of Abyssinia^ * We are here reminded of that sacred authority, which asserts that " every kind of beasts, and of birds, and of serpents, and of things in the sea, is tamed, and hath been tamed of mankind." Jam. iii. 7. A learned critic, however, thinks the word rendered " tamed" might have been translated " subdued," that it may in- clude the conquering great and mighty fishes of the sea, such as sharks and whales ; of which it seems less pro- per, to say they are tamed, as that generally imports a kind of harmless familiarity to which some savage beasts are indeed brought ; but of which large fishes are ia their nature incapable. Dr. Doddridge, Note in loo. L) &* 8 THE NATURAL HISTORT are recorded by Mr. Bruce in Ms Travels. " I do not think/ he observes " there is any one who has hitherto written of this animal, who ever saw the thousandth part of them that I have. They were a plague in Abyssinia in every situation, both in the city and in the field ; and 1 think surpassed the Sheep in number. Condar was full of them, from the time it turned dark till the dawn of day, seeking the different places of slaughtered carcases, which this cruel people expose in the Streets without bu- rial, and who firmly believe that these animals are tulasJ:a from the neighbouring mountains, transfor- med by magic, and come down to eat human flesh in the dark in safety. Many a time in the night, when the King had kept me late in the palace, and it was my duty not to lie there, in going across the park to the King's house, not many hundred yards distant, ] have been apprehensive that they would bite me in the leg. They grunted in great num- bers about me, though I was surrounded by several armed men, who seldom pass a night without wounding or slaughtering some of them. One night in Maitska, being very intent on observation, I heard something press behind me towards the bed ; but upon looking round could perceive nothing. Ha- ving finished what I was then about, I went out of my tent, resolving directly to return, which I did, 'when J perceived two large blue eyes, glaring at me in the dark. I called up my servant with a light, and we found an Plyaena standing near the head of the bed, with two or three large bunches of candles in his mouth. To have fired at him would have OP THE HYJENA. $9 been at the risk of breaking my quadrant, or other furniture ; and he seemed by keeping the candle* steadily in his mouth to wish for no other prey at that time. As his mouth was full, and he had no claw to tear with, I was not afraid of him ; but with a pike struck him as near the heart as I could judge ; it was not till then he shewed any signs of fierce- ness, but on feeling his wound he let drop the cand- ies and endeavoured to run up the shaft of the spear to arrive at me ; so that I was obliged to draw my pistol from my girdle, and shot him ; and near- ly at the same time my servant cleft his skull with a battle-axe. In a word the Hyaena was the plague of our lives, the terror of our night walks, and the destruction of our mules and asses, which above every thing else are his favourite food." Besides the striped Hyaena, which is the most savage species, there is a less ferocious, or spotted one, which inhabits the Cape of Good Hope, and lives principally on carrion ; he is seldom seen by day, but prowls by night, and clears the plains of the carcases, and even skeletons, which the vultures have picked clean in preference to attacking any living creature. The Turks are said to lay stonet upon their graves, to protect the bodies from these creatures. Browne also, in his Travels to Darfur, describes the Hyaenas as coming in the night, in herds of six, eight, and often more, into villages) and carrying off with them whatever they are abl to master. They will kill dogs and asses, even within the enclosure of houses, and fail not to as- semble wherever a dead camel or other animal is 30 REMARKS ox THE PROBABLE DATE thrown, which acting in concert they sometimes drag to a prodigious distance. Sparmun and Pennant mention, that a single hyaena has been known to carry off a living man or woman, in the vicinity of the Cape. The strength of the hyaena's jaw is such, that in attacking a dog he begins by biting off his leg at a single snap.* Such are the accounts which natural historians have given, of this ferocious and dreadful animal, once the native inhabitant of Bri- tain, but now happily extirpated from our dales and our country. Having described the Cave at Kirkdale, and giv- en an account of the animal remains found in it, I proceed to the last part of my engagement, to make lome remarks on its probable date. KEMARKS ON THE PROBABLE DATE OF THE CAVE AT KIRIIDALE. * - THAT this Cave was the habitation of Hyaenas, is, J conceive^ from the facts and rppearances connect- ed with it, almost beyond a doubt. But the hypo- thesis of its having been a den of Jyaenas before that recent inundation recorded by Moses, which produced such a change in our planet, appears to be exposed to a variety of objections. My thoughts on this subject are the same in substance, as 1 enter- * Hyaenas were formerly produced at Rome in the public games, and they are represented cm medals. OP THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. 31 taincd from my Erst visit to the Cave, and which 1 see no reason to exchange for those of another de- scription. I shall not consider the following pages as a controversy, but as ideas offered to the judgment of a candid and enlightened public. The science of geology is but comparatively in its infancy ; works of great merit have lately been written on the sub- ject ; but it still admits of farther investigation ; and if any fresh thoughts should be offered in these pa- ges, which may give a clue to farther research ; or a new path struck out, which may lead to greater certainty, those who are anxious for the improve- ment of the science will exult in its general advance- ment. Talents are various, and a combination of them may produce effects, which could not be rea- Ji/ed by an individual effort. May we not suppose that the cave at Kirkdale was inhabited by Hyaenas, after the catastrophe hap- pened which made such havoc on the face of this globe ? that they took possession of it after the deluge, in ages not known to history, in times of which we have no account.* The principal reason * Should it be admitted that the Hyaenas took poss- ession of this cavern soon after the deluge, it will make but little difference in the data of the animal remains; nor will it supercede the general system of those gentle- men, who think that the bones found in the fissures of rocks were in general washed in at the deluge, as I con- ceive this was the case in most instances which have oc- cured to the observation of the literary world; Yet I think this cavern is an exception. If the rock was form- ed at the deluge, the cave could not have existed before; and from the circumstance of the faces of the hyaena ha- ving been discovered, and with teeth-marked bones, others polished by rubbing, and the regular disposition 3f REMARKS ON THE PROBABLE DATE against the cave at Kirkdale being antediluvian is of a geological nature. Supposing the fossil lime- tone in which the cave is situated, to have been produced at the deluge mentioned by Moses be ad- mitted, the point is decided. If that which is cal- led the secondary rock, contain ing organic remains, had no existence before the deluge, there could have been no cave for the Hyaenas to inhabit. . That the fossil limestone is of recent formation, appears clear from the account given by Moses in the first Chapter of the Book of Genesis, in which we read that God made the Earth and finished it and pronounced it good, before he made e ither ve- getables or animals ; that he made vegetables be- fore he formed the animal kingdom, and that animals, man excepted, were the last part of his works. He made the earth and stocked it with ve- getables, and then his plastic hand formed the fishes of the sea, the fowls of the air, and the beasts of the field. If the earth was finished, before the vege- table and animal kingdoms were created, neither wood, nor the exuviae of fishes, nor the remains of animals, could have entered into the formation, of the primitive rock, because they had no existence till after its formation. In the rock at Kirkdale, and in all the limestone rock in this district, there are vegetable and animal remains in abundance, which, compared with the account of Moses, proves the recent formation of that rock, and constrains us of them at the bottom of the care, and from other cir- cumstances they couM not hare been washed in here, but are the result of a long and regular residence of hyaeuai* Z OF THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. to 6x a date later than the deluge to the Hyena'* den at Kirkdale, and to conclude their inhabiting it has been since that great revolution. The oolitic limestone beneath the floor of the cave is full of the spoils of marine animals; spines of e- chini, ammonites, pectens, muscles, oysters, turhi- nated shells and others of various descriptions, are found here, and in other places of the solid rock. I have an oyster's shell from Cockshot-hill, near Kirkbv-Moorside, with the enamel on the inside of the valve as perfect as when the tish was in it ; and in those places where the edges of the rock have Jong been exposed to the action of the elements, the stone being softer than the shells has been de- composed, and left the shells projecting on the edges of the rock, displaying their internal structure in all the perfecti on of modern shells, presenting to view their chambers and septa, the stony matter having been separated from them ; which he w that they are real shells, and not the mere sport of nature. We rind also fossil wood in similar situations. I have a piece which I brought from Deepdale, near Kirkby-Moorsitle, exhibiting the circles of growth, and giving proof of its being fossilized wood. These things prove the recent formation of that rock in which these remains are found, and that it must have been produced since the primitive rock, as there was then no vegetables nor animals, to be mixed with the earth. Tni* formation, there- fore we assign to the action ot the wateis upon the earth, when the crust of it was broken op ; then this cave or perforation in the rock was made, and 3i REMARKS ON TJir, PROBABLE DATS probably ^ as inhabited by Hyaenas soon after it was consolidated, and they began to multiply upon the earth. We conceive this rock containing organic remains, to have been held in solution by the accu- mulated waters of the deluge, and by elective attraction settled into their respective beds or strata, not covering the primitive formation regularly, but in patches, as one kind of rock is known to sub- side into another. We have illustrations of the affinity of different properties for each other, on the sea shore, where we find different sorts of earths associated and left by the reflux of the tide, as well as different classes of sea weeds. It may appear strange to some, that the crust of the old world should have been so completely broken up by the action of water and volcanic agency, as to be gran- ulated and qualified to take a fresh formation. But if we suppose the covering of the primative rock, to have been softer and more detached than the present secondary formation, and therefore more easily decomposed, the difficulty lessens, and the hypothesis is more readily admitted Some change of this nature must have taken place, else we could not find spoils of the animal and vegetable king* dom included in solid rock, to which there was no passage from without, but were like nuts included in their shells ; and as this rock was not made at the, format ion of the world, in the form it is seen at present, there must have been a remodification of the crust of the earth, and these remains were mix* ed up with the earth when that re modification took place. OF THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. 55 Within the last five or six years, there have been more than twenty specimens taken out of the allurn shale in the neighbourhood of Whitby, of the pro- teosaurtis or lizard proteus, or as some call it, Ichthyosaurus or lizard fish ; and the more compact bones and teeth of different animals are often dis- covered in situations to which they could have had no access from without. Different animals are of- ten found, not only in caves like that at Kirkdale, but in the solid rock, and the alluvial covering, as well amongst gravel as in other situations ; which could not be the case, as it relates to the solid rock, unless they had been introduced there when that rock was in a soft state ; and as those animals were not made till after the Almighty had finished tho creation of the earth, we fix the date of this rock to the time of the general inundation ; and there- fore, the cave at Kirkdale is, I conceive, post* diluvian. It may probably be objected, that many of the animals whose remains were found at Kirkdale, are such as inhabit high southern climates, and there- fore could not have been inhabitants of Britain. This idea is, however, exploded by high authority; it is in the greatest degree curious, says Mr. Buck- land, to observe that four cf the genera, whose bones are widely diffused over the temperate and even polar regions of the northern hemisphere, should at present exist only in tropical climates, and chiefly south of the equator ; and the only country in which the elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and hyaena, are now associated, is southern Africa. E2. 36 In the immediate neighbourhood of the Cape they all live and die together, as they formerly did in Britain ; whilst the hippopotamus is now confined exclusively to Africa, and the elephant, rhinoceros, and hyaena, are also diffused widely over the conti- nent of Asia. He contends also that the animals lived and died in the regions where their remains are now found, and gives an instance of an elephant's carcase, with all its flesh entire, in the ice of Tun- gusia, and its skin partly covered by longhair and wool : and another instance of an hairy rhinoceros found in 1771, in the same country, in the frozen gravel at Vilhoui, having its flesh and skin still per- fect, and of which the head and feet are now preserved at Petersburgh, together with a skeleton of the ele- phant above alluded to, and a large quantity of its wool ; and he observes also, that there are genera of existing animals, which have species adapted to the extremes of both the polar and tropical climes. This gentleman seems inclined to the opinion that the general and recent inundation of the globe made no material change of climate : and observes, if a change of climate has taken place, it took place sud- denly, for how otherwise could the elephant's car- case found entire in the ice at the mouth of the Lena, have been preserved from putrefaction, till it was frozen up with the waters of the then exis- ting ocean. It appears that it cannot be proved, that the re- cent inundation of the earth produced a change of climate ; and if animals which now only inhabit ti epical climes, are allowed before the deluge to a CF THE CAVE AT KIRKDALE. . , 37 have inhabited the northern hemisphere, why may not this have been the case since that event f and, as it respects the means by which they arrived here, there may have been many of which we have no idea. If it be asked, how the animals could come here, the question may be answered with another, how the others came into this kingdom ? all excepting fishes were included in the ark at the deluge, and one beast would be as likely as another to find its way to Britain. We know not what connection existed soon after the deluge between this country and the continent ; nor what change has taken place in the English Channel, which is considered as a submarine valley. It is known that the strata of Dover and the hills west of Calais correspond, as well as the coast of Dorset and Devon and that of Normandy ; and though, like families of men, the race of some of the animals found here are extinct in this country, it is only what has taken place with some species which we are sure from the testimony of history did inhabit this kingdom, some of the bones of which were mixed with the bones found at Kirkdale. Wolves were formerly inhabitants of this country; they multiplied to the terror of its inhabitants, so as to come under the notice of royalty. Edgar the King, in the year 975, imposed on the Welsh princes a tribute of wolves' heads, which for three years amounted to three hundred each year. This ex- tirpated them in that district, and the tribute ceased : we find however that some years after the decease of that Saxon monarch, these animals were again so oauch increased as to become the object of royal at- 58 REMARKS O.V THE PROBABLE DATE terition : Edward I issued out his mandate to Peter Corbet to superintend antl to assist in the destruction of them in the several counties of Glou- cester, Worcester, Hereford, Salop, and Stafford. Camden informs us that certain persons at Worm- liill in the county of Derby held their lands by the : duty of hunting, and taking the wolves that infested the country, whence they were styled wolves-hunt. Wolf's Dale, near Huddersfield, like many other ^places, very probably took its name from its abound- ing with wolves ; which were once so numerous in thig part of the kingdom, thai they attacked and destroy- ed great numbers of the tame beasts of the villages. The inhabitants, finding all their efforts to destroy them in vain, petitioned king Athelstan, beseeching him to grant them relief, by taking some effectual method to destroy those ferocious animals ; for 1 which service they bound themselves, and their suc- cessors for ever, to give every year one thrave of corn, out of every carucate of land in the bishopric of York. Their petition was granted, and buildings erected in many places, particularly : n the woodg and forests, for the reception of dogs and huntsmen j by whose means those ravenous creatures were, in a little time entirely extirpated. The thrave of corn given out of every carucate of land, was after- ward given by government to the cathedral of York; -and is to this day called Peter-Corn.* Those animals are now inhabitants of Africa, as as of Europe, Asia and America. Respecting * Hargrove's Yprkshire. .Gazetteer.- OF THE CAVE AT KIHKDALB, 3& the elephant, the race might have become extinct here by the young ones being destroyed by the Hy- aenas. It was before observed, that the number of teeth of that animal was small, and that they must from their size have belonged to very young ones ; the old ones would die of age, and the race here be* come extinct: so it might have been with the rhinoce- ros and hippopotamus. The Hyaenas having perhaps destroyed all the animals in the vicinity of the cave, began to devour one another, and the last may have devoured part of his own body, so as to have died of the wounds, and the race thereby have become ex* tinct. It is observed by Mr. Buckland, that the Keeper of Mr. WombwelFs collection of beasts said, that he had some years ago under his care an Hyae- na, which ate off his own fore paws : should we be surprised, therefore, that when pinched with hunger, those that inhabited the cave at Kirkdale should de- vour one another, and the last of them be the cause of his own death ? As to the mud which was at the bottom of the cave, a small quantity of it might have been left at the subsiding of the water at the deluge ; and while the Hyaenas inhabited the cavern, some might have been brought through the crevices, by the action of water, and have increased that sediment by run- ning down the sides, and from the roof of the cave, from the incumbent land ; and the Hyaenas walking over the bones and teeth which were then in the cave, would press them into the mud in a horizontal and other positions ; and from the Hyaenas going to and fro in the cave, the formation of stalagmite 40 REMARKS ON THE PROBABLE DATE, &C. would then be prevented both on the floor and on the sides of the cave. For if the water had come with a great current in the inclination of the rock, through the passage which is yet unexplored, it would have furrowed the floor, and the bones and loam would have been formed into ridges on either side ; or if it had flowed in at the mouth of the cave, there would have been a greater quantity of marl, and that mixed with pebbles, and other matter, so that the great area, or first entrance into the cave, would have been filled with it, as was the case with a fissure in the valley called the Manor Vale, near Kirkby-Moorside, and many others of the same description. But here was no more sediment then might have been expected from the reason before assigned. And its having been shut up many cen- turies from the access of atmospheric air with water filtrating into it, this would increase the loam and form the stalagmite. The most that can be advanc- ed relative to the time of the cave at Kirkdale being inhabited by Hysenas,must be conjecture : we have no written documents which can give a clue to cer- tainty ; still the account given by Moses of the order of the creation, compared with the nature of the limestone rock perforated by the cave, justi- fies the above hypothesis. I shall therefore leave the remarks I have made to the judgment of those who may feel themselves interested in them, hoping the account of Moses alluded to will have consider- able influence on our decisions, and that the evidence collected from it will not be treated with indifference. OBSERVATIONS ON CAVES AND FIS- SURES IN GENERAL. CAVES and fissures are every where numerous in limestone rock, though but few of them compara- tively are seen rising to the surface of the land that reposes upon them; nor from their bold and deep de- scent towards the vallies which lie beneath. Some- times, however, they rise to the surface, and open their mouths, ready to devour incautious animals which approach too near to them, which is sometimes the case in consequence of the bushes which overhang their dangerous shafts. In Derbyshire, in the dis- trict of the Peak, the farmers have often to lament the loss of their cattle which adventure too near their descent ; so it would be in the Counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan, were it not for the pre- cautionary measures adopted by the inhabitants, to prevent injury by those dreadful chasms which in- tersect the country. Caves and fissures, whether in Britain, Germany, or any other country, are analogous in their formation, and alike in the de- posits which are made in them. Most of those which have been explored, are such as were made important by sinking shafts in search for minerals, or were intersected by the removal of the rock, for the purpose of procuring stone for building and mending the roads, and thereby discovering those animal remains which had been inhumed in them, while the openings of many are seen from the gwrface, which have not yet been investigated. On* 42 OBSERVATIONS ON CAVES ANB has been explored at Button, in Mendip-hills, three near Plymouth, and tv.o in Craw ley rocks, near Swansea; besides one at Gailenreuth, in Germany, and at other places on the continent. Some of these fissures rise vertically to the surface, others ascend in an oblique direction, having ledges or landing places, on? above the other, which communicate with lateial fissures and cavernous chambers ; and others are horizontal, leading to the face of the rock, and continuing in that direction. These are fit ha- bitations for animals, and even human bones have been found in them. In a cavern at Paviland, 15 miles west of Swansea, was discovered the skeleton of a female ; it u supposed from this circumstance, and from finding different utensils there, of a culi- nary and other descriptions, that this had once been a human abode. We read of the primitive Christians living in dens and caves of the earth. The cavernous stale of limestone rock is known by ab- sorbing the water from the surface, drawing it from the high grounds, and disgorging it in low sit- uations, or in places where the rock becomes com- pact and void of fissures ; there it finds vent and bubbles up, sometimes in amazing volumes. Many of the becks or rivulets of this district sink, and af- ter having run a mile or two under ground, rise again nearly in the direction of the beck from which it had disappeared : this is the case in the Hodge- beck, the Dove, and others. Many of these caverns and fissures contain animal remains imbedded in marl, some are filled with marly clay unmixed with bone? and teeth, and FISSURES IN GENERAL. 43 others contain a mixture of bones, pebbles, marl, land, and properties of different descriptions. These are known facts which the geologist will not dispute. But the time of the introduction of these remains into these openings, is a subject on which the learned differ; Respecting detached bones and teeth discovered in the solid rock, or in crevices which have no communication with the land, or with the sides of the rocks in which they are found, I do not hesitate to say, that they must have been imbedded there, or lodged in those crevices, when that rock was in a soft btate. The large fis- sures filled entirely with loam, and containing no animal remains, were formed probably by the junc- tion of the rock in those places being prevented, by the argillacious matter which had collected there, and had then no way of escape ; but when the wa- ters retired, many of the caverns and fissure? so formed and filled with marl, bones, pebbles, and loam, would be left partly empty. Some time af- terward, perhaps the rock in which they are now discovered subsided, and widened those caverns, leaving them with the matter found In them in the fttate in which accident presents them to public no- tice, other fissures communicating with the earth, have been the unexpected graves of animals trav- ersing the land which surrounded them, and some animals perhaps have at distant periode been thro^i n into those caverns, for the convenience of removing them from public view. Could we suppose that this rock was formed be- fore the deluge mentioned in the book of Genesis, OBSERVATIONS ON CAVES, &C. nothing could be more reasonable than the sentiment that those animals, the remains of which are found in vertical fissures and caverns beneath them, were washed in by the torrent of water, when it began to move upon the face of the earth: that the fluid found them near the spot, or even at some distance from it, and propelled them forwards to the vortex. But as it is from the account of Moses probable, that this rock is of recent formation, that could not have been the case : it is more probable that these animal remains, associated with marl and other matter, obstructed the formation of the rock in those places in which v/e now behold caverns and fissures, and have remained there since that time. The sub- siding of the rock, as observed befor.e, might have widened those chasms ; and where the mouth of them was open, the water might have carried away the marl which had assisted in the formation of them, and left them partly empty ; and where this was not the case, when the water began to retire from the earth, it would take away part of the ar- gillacious matter with it, through the lower crevices of the rock, and leave the opening but partially filled with loam, or bones, loam and pebbles mixed, the horizontal caverns being cleared out by the run- ning off of the water, carrying the loam with it would be left as fit habitations for carnivorous animals : such, 1 conceive, was the cave at Kirkdale : which was soon after, probably, inhabited by Hy- enas, A Concise View of Ancient History to the JVor- man Conquest, intended as an Introduction to the History of Kirkby-Moorside, and its Vicinity. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. B EFO RE I enter on the history of Kirkby-Moorside, and its vicinity, I shall epitomise the history of the world to the invasion of Britain by the Romans, and front that period to the revolution effected by the conquest of William duke of Normandy ; glan- cing at a few particulars, and presenting a few features of the narrative, so as to convey as correct and comprehensive a view as I can of the connec- tion of one circumstance with another, to prepare the mind for the profitable reading of those accounts which may afterwards be detailed. Before the time of the Romans little is known with certainty respecting the ancient Britons, but fables are substituted for facts, and conjectures for certainty, this, indeed, is the case not only with re- spect to Britain, but with the first ages of all the nations of the earth. The accounts we have of them are involved in much obscurity; and after we arrive at certainty respecting their transactions, what do we discover but an history of wrongs and of changes, elevations and depressions pf empires; ,. 46 CHANGE IN HUMAN AFFAIRi. treachery, and blood, stain almost every page of history. We behold the fall of those empires which once enslaved the world ; we see them dwindle into ruin by strides as rapid as adverse providences could reducethem. A person who could to-day command an empire, to-morrow is seen prostrate in the dust, before those over whom he had lately triumphed. The earliest accounts of the actions of mankind are from the holy Scriptures, in which we have the first history of the world, and the evil conduct of its inhabitants, which hastened its ruin. There we behold the consequence of disobedience to the will of hea- ven, and are furnished with lessons of humility and caution. What a scope is there given for the exer- cise of the imagination in the general inundation of the world, and in those convulsions of nature which cast out of temporal existence the human species. How dreadful is the idea of seeing mankind driven to the last extremity ! to see death in the all-pre- vailing fluid riding in triumph, advancing by rapid and sure approaches to overwhelm its victims ! Imagination continues its assiduity, tr.,1 beholds the last effort to escape, and hears the last shriek of a dying world. After having for a time bent its energies to this painful subject, the mind turns from the dreadful spectacle of dead bodies riding in confusion upon the surface of congregated waters, and other species of horrible scenery, to subjects which are more grateful. It takes another peep, and beholds an en- closure} which contained the relics of animated THE HISTORY OF THE ISRAELITES. 47 beings riding upon the flood, hovering for descent as the waters subsided, until no longer supported in tbe fluid it rests on the mount. After the fur- ther subsidence of the waters, and the necessary preparations, behold the seed of the new world come forth.- Noah and his family, with the differ- ent genera o? animals advance from their confine- ment to breathe the air of liberty, and to display the wonders of Providence in their after dispersion over the face of the globe. The sacred history then proceeds to give a cir- cumstantial detail of the descendants of Abraham, whose great grandson Joseph, settling in Egypt with his eleven brothers, became with their families slaves to that powerful and idolatrous people. Mul- tiplying in numbers, they migrated from their scene of bondage, and settled in Palestine; and after many conflicts, expelled the old inhabitants, and were known afterwards by th6 name of Israelites, or child- ren of Israel. They divided their country amongst the twelve tribes, distinguished by the names of the twelve sons of Jacob, from whom they were sever- ally descended. Their government was various, but it was such as was divinely appointed, and shews the necessity of subordination without a head, the body is net complete. At first they were governed by judge?, and after that by Kings. In the reign of Kehoboam their fourth King, the son of Absalom, and grand- son to David, ten of the tribes revolted under a leader named Jeroboam, leaving two tribes only Judah ami Benjamin under Kehoboam, vvhos* 43 THE ASSYRIAN AND PERSIAN EMPIRES. descendants were called Kings of Judah, from whence the name of Jews was derived, and the successors of Jeroboam were called Kings of Israel. Several powerful nations arose in their neighbourhood, which all in time became sub- ject to the empire of Assyria, to which formi- dable power the descendants of Abraham were an easy conquest. Ten tribes of Israel were carried into captivity, and their name no more heard of a? mong the nations. The chief persons among the Jews were also carried to Babylon, the capital of Assyria, but the people were permitted to re- main at home, under the dominion of their con- querors : thus we see that proud and imperious peo- ple humbled and reduced to slavery. Soon after this a new power arose the King of Assyria turned his arms against the Medes and Persians : Cambyses, King of Persia, had married Mandana, daughter of Astyages, King of Media, against which the As- syrians made their tirst attack. The Persians sent Cyrus, son of Cambyses, at the head of an army to the assistance of his uncle Cyaxares, who was their King. The invader was repelled ; he was invaded in his turn ; the King of Assyria was killed at the taking of Babylon, and the whole empire reduced under the dominion of the Medes and Persians : thus was the Persian empire founded. The Persian empire extended overall the known parts of Asia, and the ambition of Darius, a succes- sor though not a descendant of Cyrus, induced him, to attempt the conquest of part of Europe ; but here he met with a severe repulse from the Grecian republic. THE PERSIAN EMPIRE. 49 This small people, who inhabited a country, of small extent, were not only able by their courage and military skill to check this powerful invader, but they had made such a proficiency in knowledge, and in the arts, that we may now say every attain- ment modern Europe has made has been facilita- ted by knowledge drawn from them. The origin of this singular people is uncertain, the first time ihey made any conspicuous figure in the annals of his- tory, was in the Trojan war, which has been render- ed immortal by the poems of Homer. At that time they were divided into small king- doms, under limited monarchs, all of which before the Persian invasion were formed into republics. The Persian King Darius, despised such feeble antagonists, but hoth he and his son Xerxes soon learned by fatal experience, the advantage of val- our and discipline, overturned multitudes. After the loss of immense armies, the Kings of Persia contented themselves with fomenting the differen- ces which began to arise among the Grecian repub- lics, in which Athens and Sparta took the lead ; and remaining anxious spectators of the bloody wars, which they made with each other, when freed from the apprehensions of a foreign enemy. While Greece was thus wasting her strength in wars at home, great jealousy was still entertained, lest the common enemy the King of Persia, should take the advantage of her weakness, to ac- complish his ambitious designs, when a storm un- expectedly burst on them from another quarter. There was a country to the north of Greece. G 50 THE MACEDONIAN EMPIRE. called Macedonia, which though in many respects congenial with it, was looked on as barbarian. This country was governed by an absolute king : Philip, prince of Macedonia, happening on some occasion to be an hostage among the Greeks, had the advantage of learning their art of war, and seeing their internal dissensions ; profiting by this know- ledge, when he succeeded to the throne of Macedo- nia, he so contrived to embroil the affairs of Greece by corruption and intrigue, and by taking part sometimes with one party and sometimes with ano- ther, so as to weaken the whole ; that having bribed the chiefs of some of the republics to his interest, and totally defeated the Athenians and their allies at the battle 01 Chaeronea, he rendered Greece entirely dependent on himself. Knowing, however, the difficulty of keeping such people in peaceable subjection, he planned the po- pular scheme of an invasion of Persia; assembling for this purpose the whole force of Greece, and causing himself to be acknowledged chief of the confederacy. In the midst of this undertaking he was assassinated, and was succeded in his power by his son, distinguished by the appellation of Alex- ander the Great. Thus anxious for conquest, and ihirsting for glory, putting himself at the head of this formidable army, conquered the Persian empire with all its dependencies, and penetrating to the banks of the Ganges, subdued even part of that country, known to us by the name of the East In- dies. But this immense empire was of short dura- tion, for when returning he died at Babylon, either THE HOMAN EMPIRE. 51 by poison or excessive drinking, leaving his vast dominions to be divided among his Generals. Asia, Egypt, and Greece, exhibited a continual Bcene of war and desolation ; especially Greece, where there were perpetual struggles between the successors of Alexander for dominion, and the republics for liberty, till the whole was reduced to subjection by the power of Rome. Rome, which makes so conspicuous a figure in the history of the world, arose from being a small state, to the utmost extent of territory and power. At first it was governed by Kings, who were expelled for their tyranny ; and two annual magistrates chosen in their place : these with the senate and as- semblies of the people, formed the government not unlike our Kings, Lords, and Commons. The Ro- mans soon engaged in wars with other states of Italy, all of which they conquered, increasing by those means not only their strength but their military knowledge ; and as many of the Italian states were Greek colonies, they had all the advantage of the Grecian art of war improved by their own experi- ence. Being masters of Italy they turned their arms against Sicily, which engaged them with a war with Carthage, a powerful state on the North of Africa, who had colonies in that Island. This war was prosecuted with various success, till the perse- verance and courage of the Romans prevailed, and Carthage was totally subdued. The armies of Rome were now become invinci- ble; not only Asia, Egypt, Greece, and the north- ern parts of Africa were subdued, but Spain also and Britain. 52 HISTORF OP THE ROMANS IN BRITAIN". When the Romans conquered this country, itg maritime provinces were possessed, according to the account of Caesar, by such as came out of Belgium in Gaul, and the interior parts by the aboriginal natives. The inland inhabitants are represented as extremely numerous, living in cottages thatched with straw, and feeding large herds of cattle. They lived mostly on milk, or flesh procured by the chace. What cloaths they wore to cover any part of their bodies were usually the skins of beasts ; but much oftheir bodies, as the arms, legs, and thighs, was left naked, and those parts were usually painted blue. Their hair which was long flowed down upon their backs and shoulders, while their beards were kept close shaven, except upon the upper lip, where it was suffered to grow. The dress of savage nations is every where pretty much the same, being calcula- ted rather to inspire terror, than to excite love and respect. As to their government, it consisted of several small principalities, each under its respective lea- der ; and this seems to be the earliest mode of dominion with \\ Inch mankind are acquainted, and deduced from the natural privileges of paternal authority. Upon great and uncommon dangers, a commander in chief was chosen by common consent, in a general assembly ; and to him was committed the conduct of the general interest, the power of making peace, or leading to war. Their forces consisted chiefly of foot, and yet they could bring a considerable number of horse into the field upon great occasions. They likewise used HISTORY OF THE DRUIDS. 53 chariots in battle, which, with short scythes fastened to the ends of the axle-trees, inflicted terrible wounds, spreading terror and devastion wheresoev- er they drove. Nor while the chariots were thus destroying, were the warriors who conducted them unemployed : these darted their javelins a. gainst the enemy, ran along the beam, leapt on the ground, resumed their seat, stopt, or turned their horses at full speed, and sometimes cunningly re- treated, to draw the enemy into confusion. The religion of the Britons was one of the most considerable parts of their government, and the druids who were the guardians of it possessed great authority among them. The word druid is suppo- sed to be derived from the old british word drew-oak. The druids are said by some to have learned their tenets of the ancient Celts, or Celtae,* who migrated, * How long the tribes of the ancient Britons had in- habited this country before the Roman conquest, cannot be asccrta ined. But from their dispersion over the island, and their various settlements in it, ages must have elapsed. They were all of one race and spoke one language, though in different dialects. The people denominated the Celts appear to have occupied the whole of the Brit- ish Islands, and the western part of the continent of Europe ; the remains of that people and of their language still exists in Wales, in the Highlands of Scotland, and in the west of Ireland. This is argued from the similar- ity of language, from the same names in different coun- tries, as to the names given to hills, promontories, rivers, &c. in each of those parts of the British empire. Mr. Young observes that the name of the river at YVhitby, the Esk, which in the British language signifies water or river, affords a remarkable example ; there being three rivers of the same name in England, five in. Scotland, and two or three in Ireland. The Gaelic lan- guage spoken by the Caledonians, or as they are now 54 HISTORY OP THE DRUIDS, as Herodotus informs us, from the Danube towards the more westerly part of Europe, and settled in called the Highlanders, of Scotland, and by the descen- dants of the ancient inhabitants of Ireland, is well known to be a dialect of the Celtic language, which was at a remote period spoken by the inhabitants of a considerable part of the globe That this dialect of the Celtic still preserves its original purity, may be reasonably presumed from the circumstance, that the Caledonians have still remained an unmixed people. The subjection of their country, though it might serve to gratify the minds of vain and ambitious conquerors, could furnish no strong allurement for the establishment of settlements. The barrenness of the soil presented no flattering temptation for fixing a permanent residence. The dif- ficulty of encountering a warlike people, inhabiting a country which every where presents lakes, rivers, woods, and mountains, were sufficient to cool the ardour even of Roman conquerors, who dreading the hazard, or seeingthe itnpractibility of accomplishing the design of conquest, held it more expedient to build fortified walls, as well for the preservation of the provinces they had subdued, as for repelling the incursion of the natives whose spirit they could not reduce to obedience. It is true that the Danes and the Norwegians made settlements in the west- ern and northern islands of Scotland; but the language of the Caledonians could not have been affected by the incursions of these northern nations who never had made any settlement in Caledonia, properly so called. That the Gaelic is an original language can be proved by the most satisfactory and demonstrable evidence. It is not derived from any other language, being obviously redu- cible to its own roots, its combinations are formed of simple words of known signification, and those words are resolvable into the simplest combinations of vowels and consonants, and even into simple sounds In such a language some traces, it may be expected, will be found of the ideas and notions of mankind living in a state of primeval simplicity ; and if so a monument is still pre- served of the manners of the human race while as yet under the guidance of simple nature, without any artifi- cial restraint or controul. See Grant on the origin of language, who observes also that the greek and latin HISTORY OF THE DRUIDS 55 Gaul and Britain at a very early period. Accor- dingly they have traced their origin, as well as that of the Celts, to the Gomerians, or descendants of Gomer, the eldest son of Japhet. It is supposed languages are of Celtic original, and that in order to find the true etymology of many words, both the gaelic and Celtic roots must be consulted, and their combinations analized. The honour of being the parent of such an il- lustrious progeny, many of the admirers of the highly re- fined languages of Greece and Home will not perhaps be disposed to bestow on a language, barbarous it may be said, because it lives probably in its native purity among the inaccessible wilds of Caledonia, and the unmixed descendants of the ancient Irish* It becomes riot the learned however to cherish prejudices. A well informed mind will be inclined to examine every proposition with candour and liberality. The Theos of of the Greeks, and the Deusof the Lat- ins, both signifying God, arc compounded of two gaelic words, Ti a being, and Tos or Tus, equally common to denote first or beginning. In the compound these two words are pionounced Tios or Tius, the first letter of the second word being always thrown out : the letter T, in the word Ti has a middle sound or softpronounciation, between the Theta of the Greeks and the T of the English, and is formed by the application of the tongue to the teeth and roof of the mouth. Theos signifies literally the first being ; in like manner the Venus of the Latins is a compound of BEN and Tus, which literally signifies the first woman, the letter B in compounds and inflex- ions is always softened into V, so that in gaelic the first woman is properly denominated Bhenus, pronounced as if wrirten Venus. Edar and Eidar signify food these words are compounded of the gaelic words Ed or Kid, and Ar, the former signifies food simply, and the latter plough- ed land ; the word Edar iu strict propriety of speech signifies that species of food which is produced from the culture of the ground or ploughed land. These are a few of the many words which appear to be derived from the gaelic language, that language which was spoken by the original inhabitants of Britain, and which proves that they inhabited this country at a very eaily date. 56 HISTORY OF THE DRUIDS. that the principal rites of druidism originated here, and were transmitted hence into Gaul. It is said the Gauls came here to be perfected ; the druids were teachers of religion and philosophy, and it is thought they learned their philosophy from Pythagoras ; their chief settlement was in the Isle of Anglesea, which was well stored with spacious groves of their favourite oak. Many of them seemed to have lived a kind of monastic life, united together in fra- ternities.* As one principal part of their office was to direct the worship and religious rites of the people, the service of the Temple required a con- siderable number of them, and all those lived to- gether near the temple which they served; The arch-druid had his residence in the Isle of Anglesea, surrounded by a great number of the most eminent of his order. Some lived as hermits, to acquire greater reputation for sanctity, in the most unfre- quented places. In some of the western islands of Scotland, there are still remaining the foundations of small circular houses, capable of containing only one person, which are called by the people of the country druid houses. See Martin's dissert, of the Western Isles, page 154:. They lived in celibacy, and were waited upon by a set of female devotees, called druidesses. They were very numerous, as the people being very superstitious would facilitate the increase of their number. We are informed that they entertained an opinion that the greater number of druids they had in their country, they * Marcell. Ammianus, Lib. 15. Chap. 9, HISTORY OF THE DRUIDS. 57 would obtain the more plentiful harvest, and the greater abundance of all things. We learn also from Caesar, that many persons allured by the hon- ours and privileges which the druids enjoyed, vol- untarily embraced their discipline, and that many of them were dedicated to it by their parents. The druids bore a great proportion to the rest of the people : they were the priests, the poets, the augurs, the civil judges, and instructors of youth: they were similar to the philosophers amongst the Greeks* They concealed their privileges and doctrines from all but the members of their society ; these doctrines were forbidden to be committed to writing, which is the reason we know so little of them, Their temples were of a circular description, a circle was their favourite figure, perhaps from the idea of its bearing a resemblance to the figure of the earth. They had annual assemblies and monthly ones ; they were all to meet at one place, from different countries at the same day on their annual festivals. Their places of worship were situated on eminences, and as they worshipped in the open air, they could at the same time from those eminences have a full view of the celestial bodies : they sacrificed human rictims, which they burned in large wicker idols made so capacious as to contain a multitude of per- sons at once, who were thus consumed together, and they affirmed that the anger of the immortal gods, to which they imputed various diseases, could not be appeased so as to spare the life of one man, but by the life of another. They had two sets of re- ligious opinions, one of which they communicated H 63 -- only to the initiated, who were obliged to take the oath of secrecy, in which the youths swore that they would not reveal any mysteries they should learn. When under tuition they were not to converse with any but their teachers, until they had finished their education and were dismissed. Those teachers re- sorted to caves or recesses of forests to give their instructions. Their other doctrines were called public ones, such as were taught to the people in general ; they were delivered in verse, and abounded in figures and metaphors. The druids stood on little eminences whenever they delivered those discourses to the sur- rounding multitudes, many of which eminences remain to this day. With this fabulous divinity they intermixed moral precepts for regulating the manners of their audiences.* They worshipped the Sun : to this illustrious ob- ject of idolatrous worship the famous circles of stone, several of which still remain, seem to have been chiefly dedicated, where the druids kept the sacred fire, the symbol of this divinity, from whence as they were situated on eminences they had a full view of the heavenly bodies. The moon also obtained at an early period a large share of the veneration of mankind. The Gauls and Britons seem to have paid the same kind of worship to the Moon as the Sun, and it has been observed that the circular tem- ples dedicated to these luminaries were of the same construction, and were commonly contiguous. See * Rowland's Mona Antigua. JLucan, lib, 1, yer, 460, HISTOHY OP THE DRUIDS, Martin's Dissert, of West. Isles. From their idea that nothing but the life of man could atone for the life of man, their altars streamed with human blood, they sacrificed their victims at the eve of a dangerous war, or in a time of national calamity. When a person was afflicted with a dangerous disease, to gain the favour of the Gods, they au- gured on the event of the sacrifice by the manner in which the blood gushed out of the victim's wounds. They had daily sacrifices in their most famous places of devotion ; mid-summer-day and November were annual festivals, one to implore the friendly influence of the heavens upon their fields, and the other to return thanks for their fruits. Af- ter their sacrifices and acts of devotion were finish- ed, the rest of the time was spent in feasting, sing- ing, dancing, and all kinds of diversion. In the druidical creed it was an article that it was unlawful to build temples to the gods or worship them with- in walls or under roofs ; all their places of worship were therefore in the open air, and generally on eminences, from whence they had a full view of the heavenly bodies to whom much of their adoration was directed. The druids had a considerble influ- ence ; whoever refused obedience to them was con- sidered accursed. It appears among the British tribes and nations they explained and executed the laws, which were considered as commands of their gods and not of their princes. They were the only persons of allowed know- ledge of the crimes that were committed against heaven, and of which they took vengeance. All controversies were determined by them, iuhenian- 00 HISTORY OF THE DRUIDS. ces, boundaries, &c. ; they inflicted punishments and death as they pleased. They could interdict whole tribes who refused to submit to their decrees. This sentence was so awful, that the persons against whom it was ful- minated, were not only excluded from all saciifices and religious rites, but they were held in universal detestation as impious and abominable. Their company was avoided as dangerous and contamina- ting : they >t ere declared incapable of any trust or honour, put out of the protection of the laws, and exposed to every species of insult. They attended armies and punished soldiers : the princes their could not give battle till the pi iest had performed auguries and declared they were favourable. Kespecting their subsistence, the druids had an ample provision. Annual dues were exacted from every family by the priest of that temple, within whose district that family dwelt ; they were obliged under the penalty of excommunication to extinguish their fires on the last evening of October, and to at- tend at the temple with their annual payment ; and on the first day of November to receive some of the sacred fire from the altar to rekindle those in their houses. By this device they were obliged to pay, or be deprived of the use of fire at the approach of winter, when the want of it would be more felt. If any neighbour out of compassion supplied them with fire, or even conversed with them in their state of delinquency, they were laid underthe same terrible sentence of excommunication. See Toland's Hist, of the Druids, page 71. They were the most opu- HISTORT OP THE ROMANS IN BRITAIN. 61 lent men in the country, but their power dwindled by the Roman influence, until it soon became nearly extinct : as the Romans compelled their subjects to build temples and offer sacrifices after the Roman manner. They enacted severe laws against the use of human victims, and deprived the druids of all civil power. When Caosar had determined upon the conquest of Britain, and had embarked his troops, he set sail about midnight, and the next morning- arrived on the coast of Dover, where he saw the rocks and cliffs covered with armed men to oppose his landing. The Britons flocked to the standard of Cassibel- aunus, whom they had chosen as their commander in chief, under whom they might probably have repelled the invaders, had not dissentions and jealousies arisen amongst them ; but some through envy, and others through fear, deserting his standard, some of them retiring to the internal part of the country, and others submitting to Caesar, they were forced to come to an agreement with the enemy, and the conqueror after having made proper arrange- ments returned home, but had afterwards to return to compel the Britons to fulfil their stipulations. The Emperors Augustus and Tiberius were indiff- erent about Britain, and the natives being comforta- ble, and having had their minds somewhat expanded, began to make improvements in all the arts which embellish human nature. In this state they remain- ed a considerable time, till at length the Romans in the time of Claudius began to think seriously of entirely reducing the Britons under their dominion, 62 HISTORY OF THE ROMANS IN BRITAIN. and an expedition for this purpose was conducted by Flautius and other commanders with great success. Caractacus, a brave and warlike hero, was resolv- ed to make every effort he could to repel the inva- ders, and continued with inferior forces to oppose and harrass the Romans for upwards of nine years, till he was subdued by Ostorius Scapula. After this the Britons revolted again, in conse- quence of the cruel treatment which Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, received from the Roman pro- curators. They attacked the Romans with fury, and in the contest reduced London to ashes ; such of the inhabitants as remained in it were massacred, and the Romans, with all other strangers, to the number of 70,000, were cruelly put to the sword. Encouraged by this advantage, the Britons fought with renewed bravery, and did all they could to force the Romans under Paulinus to a general battle. Boadicea, and her two daughters attended the ar- my, and Boadicea harangued her soldiers from her chariot, but the Romans prevailed, and this beauti- ful and accomplished woman destroyed herself by poison. The Brigantes inhabited the northern part of this island ; they were a warlike people, and appear to have excelled all the other tribes in martial exploits, and made terrible and successful attacks upon their neighbours. They made every effort to extend their dominions by subduing their own countrymen, and struggled to the very last to retain the territory which they possessed. They dwelt in the middle part of the island, and their possessions were very HISTOBT OF THE ROMANS IN BRITAIN. 63 extensive, comprising the greater part of Yorkshire and Durham on the sea coast, and Lancashire, West- moreland and Cumberland on the west. Their kingdom consequently included this district. The eastern Brigantes situated towards the sea coast made a vigorous resistance against the Romans, defending their towns and property with the most determined valour ; and it was not till they had made every effort and exhausted all their means, that they yielded to the invincible power of the Roman arms, the propraetor Petilius received their submission in the reign of Vespasian, A. D. 70. Eight years after the Romans had gained this advantage over the greatest part of the war- like Brigantes, Agricola was appointed to the government of Britain, being well acquainted with the country, and having acquired his military skill in it, under Suetonius Paulinus, where he afterwards distinguished himself as a commander of the twentieth legion under Bolanus and Periales : he used every means finally to over- come the Brigantes, he explored the woods and forests, and marked out proper stations for encamp- ments, and erected a chain of posts along the frontiers of his extensive conquests, and pushed his victories even to the Caledonians ; so that he may be considered the final conqueror of the warlike Bri- gantes: The ancient capita] of the Brigantes was Isurium, or Aldborough, near Boroughbridge, but in latter times Eboracum, or York, the head quart- ers of ihe sixth legion had the first rank. Here the Emperor Severus died, so did Constantius, and his 64 THE ROMANS LEAVE BRITAIN. son Constantiue. The Brigantes being subdued, their country was formed intoa Roman province de- nominated Maxima Caesariensis. This province was governed by a person or' consular dignity, and was frequently visited by the Emperors themselves, as appears from the deaths of several of them in the capita). The Romans had many struggles before they could totally conquer Britain ; no sooner had they possession of one part of it, than troubles arose in another, so as to keep them a long time cons- tantly on the alert, a circumstance which they no doubt anticipated, as it could not be supposed that a people however rude, would be willing to resign their property and liberty to others. The final establishment of the Romans in Brit- ain commenced with Julius Agricola, who governed it during the reigns of Vespasian, Titus, and Domit- ian, and distinguished himself both by his courage and humanity. But as all things have their changes, their eleva- tions and depressions, so it was with the Romau empire ; its power was overgrown, and begun to sink under its own weight; divisions arose among themselves, revolts and dissentions increased, until they had to concentrate their power to attempt to support a falling state. During these commotions, the young men of Britain were taken into Gaul to fight the battles of contending tyrant*. This, with the removal of the Roman soldiers from it encouraged the neighbour- ing powers, the Picts and Scots, who were always watchful for plunder and dominion, to make incur- ADVANTAGES OP THEIR GOVERNMENT. 6> sions into the northern part of the kingdom, seizing or destroying all before them. The Romans want- ing all their force at home, left Britain to itself, and it is asserted by some that they never afterwards returned to it, which seems however to be doubtful. The Britons thus having lost their protectors, and deprived of their own warlike youths, were left de- fenceless, as the Romans could do nothing for them but give them instructions for their personal defence, and assist them in rebuilding a wall of stone, as they had no persons amongst themselves able to conduct the work, buiJt at first by the Emperor Severus across the island, which they at that time could not accomplish themselves. Hard as it may appear to sympathizing humanity for the Romans to possess the country of the ancient Britons so long, it proved for the good of general society ; for after they became sole masters of it, they forwarded agriculture, and gave an impulse to the improvements of civil life. They established wholesome laws, and the face of the country and the btate of society soon bore a different aspect ; on the scite of forests and uncultivated land, fruitful fields appeared arrayed in plenty, and furnishing supplies not only for this country but also for the Roman garrisons in Germany and in Gaul. This polished and successful people, among whom science resided, availed themselves of their knowledge in the pro- tection of property, and security of the British coasts by properly providing for the defence of it, and es- tablishing maritime garrisons. commanders of the garrisons of the eastern 66 THE HELPLESS STATE OF THE BRITONg. coast were called Comttes Littoris Saxonici, or Counts of the Saxon shore. They were subordinate to the Dux Britanniarum, whose residence was at the pretorean palace at York, where the sixth le- gion was stationed, to oppose the incursions of the Caledonians, should they have broken through the northern barrier. These Counts of the Saxon shore had Soldiers under their command, to guard the coast against the invasions of the Saxons, who long accustomed to peril, hazard, and plunder, often made attempts from the opposite coust. It was to provide against these ferocious invaders, that the Romans constructed the military roads ; it was to have a communication between the mari- time garrisons and the grand station at York, those roads are generally found to terminate at some distinguished place on the coast possessing a con- venient bay or harbour ; and in addition to the maritime garrisons and military roads, they formed camps in the most convenient places to prevent the enemy from penetrating into the interior of the country. The Romans were in possession of Britain four centuries, and then had to leave it for reasons before named. How ephemeral is human greatness ! how Jading is human glory ! how uncertain are earthly possessions ! who can build stable happiness on the fluctuating ocean of human affairs ! The Britons during the residence of the Romans amongst them, had imbibed different habits, culti- vated different manners, and after their complete subjugation had relied on the Romans for protection* THE SAXONS IN BRITAIIC. 07 The Roman power being withdrawn from them, and the number of effective men amongst themselves lessened at the departure of the Romans, they lost their friends and supporters, and were left to the ravages of their northern enemies ; the Caledonians broke down the wall built by Severus, and subdued and destroyed the northern part of the country, as far as the banks of the Humber. Being thus dis- tressed and driven to the last extremity of despair, they invited over the Saxons to their assistance, who came to their help and subdued their enemies : after having enjoyed the blessings of this delightful and fruitful land, they were unwilling to return ; and having augmented their force, turned upon the natives and finally subdued them, which introduces the Saxon period in the English history. Ida, a Saxon prince, in the year 547, with a nu- merous host of his countrymen landed at Flam bo- rough head, extended his conquest to the north, and having subdued Northumberland, Durham, and the south-east part of Scotland, assumed the title of Bernicia. Soon after Ella, another Saxon prince, overcame Lancashire, and th greatest part of York- shire, and received the appellation of King of Deira. The river Tees was the boundary between, these two kingdoms. About the year 550, the Saxons had conquered the whole of south Britain, with the exception of Wales, which they divided into seven kingdoms, called the Heptarchy ; many of the original inhabi- tants took refuge in the mountains of Wales, and others became servants to the conquerors. The T 9 t. & J8 THE SAXONS IN BRITAIN. Saxon laws, government, and manners were intro- duced, and all things underwent r thorough revolu- tion ; the easy conquest of the Britons is attributed to their dissention?, their effeminacy and indolence. The Saxons too had their troubles, and in their turn were humbled by the superior power of others. Such is the disposition of men, that one strives to Buy/plant the other. During the time of Alfred the King, they were much disturbed by the invasion of the Danes, who crossed the German ocean from the shores of the Baltic, and plundered the eastern coast of Britain. Flamborough-head, Scarborough and Whitby, were generally the places upon the coast to which they directed their course, being conspicuous promontories and convenient for land- ing. Flamborough-head to this day bears testimo- ny of a Danish encampment, and is called little Denmark.* Hungar and Hubba, two enterprising Dan Mi chiefs, with numerous hosts, in the spring of 876, landed in two divisions ; Hubba in Dunsley bay, and Hungar at Peak, about 13 miles to the north of Scarborough. Hubba erected his standard, which was a Raven, on an eminence which is known by the name of Raven-hill, and the rising ground on which Hungar erected his standard, is known by the same name. These monsters, whose hearts were impervious to compassion and sympathy, committed the utmost cruelties without regard to sex, rank, or age ; they ~o destroyed the face of the country, that after their * Hinderwell's Hist, of Scarborough. THE DANES. THE SAXONS KESTORED. 6 ravages sterility and desolation frowned on the face of (he coast in every direction. Alfred the King" engaged those cruel and remorseless invaders and triumphed over them. After this they made a variety of attempts in Britain, and in the reign of Alfred fought many battles in it. After the death of Alfred their affairs underwent various changes, fighting battles, w inning and losing, conquering and being conquered, till the time of Edred the first, who was stiled King of Great Britain, who in the year 950 completely conquered them. It was king Edred also who in 954 took away the sovereign power from Northumberland, and made an Earldom of it. After the death of Edred, the kingdom being divided between Edmund the third, son of Ethel- red, and Canute, by party faction, Edmund is acknowledged King by the city of London, and one part of the Kingdom, while the other part acknow- ledges Canute. Edmund is murdered soon after by Duke Edrick, and Canute ascends theBritish throne, in the year 1017, which introduces the Danish Kings, which ended in the death of Hardicanute. In the year 1042, Edward surnamed the Confessor, son of King Ethelred the second and queen Emma, mounts the British throne, in whom the Saxon sovereignty is restored, and in whose reign Tosti, Earl of Northumberland, was in power, whose name is mentioned in the inscription over the door of the church at Kirkdale, and who had possessions in this district ; in consequence of which I have traced the history of England to the conquest of William, Duke of Normandy. After the death of Edward 70 CAMDEN ON RTEDALE. the confessor, Harold, the second son of Goodwin, Earl of Kent, seized the British throne, and was crowned at Oxford; but William Duke of Normandy claimed it as being 1 , it is said, promised him by Ed ward the confessor, made a descent upon the coast of Sussex, and engaged Harold near Hastings, who was killed on the spot, and his army routed Oct. 14th, 1066, which introduces the race of the Nor- man Kings. ^,^ CAMDEN ON RYEDALE. As MANY places treated of in this volume are in the Wapentake of Ryedale, before I proceed to the history of them, itmay be interesting to some of my readers, to have the account given of it by Camden in the reign of Elizabeth. After having named other things, Camden says farther on among Blaekmoor hills, we find nothing remarkable but winding streams and rapid brooks, which occupy the valleys themselves ; except Pick- ering, a considerable Town belonging to the duchy of Lancaster, situate on a hill, and defended by an old castle, on which many of the surrounding villages depend ; whence the adjacent country is commonly called Pickering Lyth, Pickering liberty, and Pickering forest; which King Henry 1 1 1. granted to his younger son, Edmund Earl of Lancaster. In this tract on the Derwent is Ay ton, which gave name to the famous knightly family of Atton, descended from ttoe Lords Vescy, whose estate was divided bjr CAMDEN ON RYEDALE. 71 daughters between Edward St. John, the Evers, and Coigniers. From Edward St. John a large portion of it came by a daughter to Henry Broraflet ; who was summoned to Parliament 27 Henry VI., in the following form, which occurs in no other summons : "We will that you, and the heirs male of your Body lawfully begotten, be Barons Vescy." This title passed afterwards by a daughter to the Cliffords. On the other side, four miles* from Pickering near Dowe, Dove, a rapid little river, stands under hill* Kirkby Moorside, so called from being near the moors ; no contemptible market town formerly, belonging to the Estotevilles, Beyond this to the west extends Ryedale, a spa- cious and fruitful vale, adorned with 23 Parish Churches, and the river Rhie running through the middle of it. This was, according to William of Newburgh a dreary waste before Walter Espec gave it to the Monks of Clugni, and founded a Mon- astery for them. In this vale is Elmesly, which if I am not greatly mistaken, Bede calls Ulmetum ; where Robert de Ross, surnamed Fursan, built a Castle, near which the river Ricall loses itself under ground. Lower down on the river stands Riton, the ancient estate of the ancient Family of the Perchaies, commonly called Percys. Thence the Rhie rolls with it the streams of many brooks to the Derwent, which waters this vale. Multon, a market town famous for corn, horses, fish, and in- * Four miles from the extremity of Pickering Lyth, which terminates at the Tillage of Siunington, four-miles from Kirkby. Moorside ; Pickering town beiug eight miles distant* 72 CAMDEN ON RYEDALE. stru merits of husbandry ; where are to be seen the foundations of an old Castle, which I am told former- ly belonged to the Vescys, very considerable Lords in these parts, They derive their descent, as ap- pears from records, from William Tyson, who was Lord of Malton,and Alnwic in Northumberland, and slain in the battle of Hastings against the Nor- mans. His only daughter was married to John de Vescy, a Norman, who left an only daughter, Beatrix, married to Eustace, son of John with one eye ; who founded religious houses at Malton and Walton, in the reign of Stephen. His second wife was lady of Walton, daughter of William Constable of Chester. William, son of Eustace by Beatrix, being cut out of his mother's womb, assumed the name of Vescy, and also their arms; a cross argent, on a field gules. He had by Beatrix, daughter of Robert Estoteville, of Knaresborgh, two sons, Eus- tace de Vescy, who married Margaret, daughter of William, King of Scotland ; and Warine de Vescy Lord of Knapton. Eustace was father of William, who had John, who died without issue; and Wil- liam, who distinguished himself in Ireland, and changed the family arms to a field, or, without a cross. But William, upon the death of hi* lawful son John, in the Welsh Wars, granted to King Edward certain lands in Ireland, that his nat- ural son William, surnamed deKildare, might enjoy his estate ; and appointed Anthony Bee, Bishop of Durham, trustee for his son : but the Bishop broke his trust in regard to Alnwic, Elthain in Kent, and other lands, which he ia said to have converted t* MEMOIR OF CAMDEff. 73 his own use. This natural son was slain in the battle of Steirling, in Scotland, and the title at length reverted to the family of Alton ; Warine Vescy's only daughter, Margaret, being married to Gilbert de Alton. Thinking it may not prove unacceptable to the general reader to know something of the author of the " Britannia," I have drawn up a concise ac- count of this learned Antiquary, and his object in composing that great work. WILLIAM CAMDEN, the very eminent English Antiquary and writer of History, was born in Lon- don, in 1551. He was first educated in Christ's Hospital, and thence removed to St. Paul's school, in which Seminary his progress was so conspicuous, that at the age of 15 he was entered as a Servitor in Magdalen College, Oxford. After having com- pleted his course of studies at the University, he was by the interest of his friend and patron, Dean Goodman, appointed second master of Westminster School ; an office which he executed with great dil- igence and capacity. His leisure hours were chief- ly bestowed on the study of Antiquities, in which he had made a commencement at Oxford. He began at this time to make collections of all that ancient authors had written concerning Britain, and to search-all the records and repositories containing matter of importance to his design of illustrating K 74r MEMOIR OF CAMOKN. its history and antiquities. For the purpose of examining with his own eyes the relics of former times, he made a journey in 1582 through some of the Eastern and Northern parts of the kingdom ; and he established various correspondencies from which he might derive further information. The first of these researches appeared in 1586, in his " Britannia ; a Chorographical Description of the most flourishing kingdom of England, Scotland, Ireland, and the adjacent Islands, from remote an- tiquity." Lond. 8vo. It was dedicated to Lord Burleigh, whose patronage and assistance Camdeii gratefully acknowledges. His work even in this early imperfect state, obtained great applause, and placed him high among Antiquaries and men of learning. Its improvement was thenceforth one of the great objects of his life. He made journeys into the west of England and into Wales, in 1589 and 1590, consulted archives, obtained the memoirs and genealogies of great families, and thus successively enriched and corrected the editions of the 'Britannia,* which became so popular, that the fourth appeared in 1594, enlarged to 4to. His talents were re ward- ed by his appointment of Head master of Westmin- ster ; and soon after by having the vacant post of Clarencieux King of Arms bestowed upon him ; a change of profession well suited to his favourite pursuits, and productive of a much larger share of literary leisure. He died in 1623, in the 73 year of his age, and was buried with great Heraldic pomp in Westminster Abbey. A monument was erected near the place, with his effigy holding the Britannia in his hand* MEMOIR OF CAMDEV. 75 This learned author is reckoned the Father of British Antiquaries. He collected a valuable mass of materials which have since served as a basis for the accumulation of further knowledge on the sub- ject. His Brittania is to this day a standard work ; and the translations from the original Latin in the successive editions of Bishop Gibson and Rich* ard Gough, Esq , have been swelled by additions and corrections, to Books of great consequence and magnitude. Camden was also distinguished as an Historian, and Hume observes of his ' History of Queen Elizabeth/ "that it may be esteemed a good " composition both for style and matter. It is "written with simplicity of expression, very rare " in that age, and with a regard to truth. It would " not perhaps be too much to affirm, that it is " amongst the best historical productions which " ha ye yet been composed by any Englishman. HUMK'S ENGLAND, JAMES ! K $. I HISTORY ANTIQUITIES (ilrt, TO TH* DISTANCE OF FIFTEEN MILES. THE HISTORY 2ND ANTIQUITIES OF THIS TOWN is situate in the Wapentake of llydale, 28 miles from York, 20 from Thirsk, 20 from Stokesley, 23 from Guisborough, 28 from Whitby, 26 from Scarborough, 14 from Malton, G from Helmsley, and 8 from Pickering ; having in its parish the townships of GillamoorandFadmoor.t Kirkby- Moors ide, is not a place which affords much scope for the Historian, not having been in ancient times, in a situation to check the hostile progress of enemies ; nor a place where any known decisive battle was fought, which determined the fate of a kingdom;}: nor has it given birth to any * It was anciently called Kirkby-Moorsheved : or Kirkby at the head of the Moor ; after that Kirkby- Moorside ; or Church town Moorside. f Fad-Moor, so called, either from the Gothic word Fad, want; or the Saxon Fegd, war, and Moor. J Though nothing particular is recorded of battle* having been fought here, yet from circumstantial evidence and tradition, it appears, that the immediate vicinity of the town has been the scene of these destructive conflicts. In a gill, at a place called the back of the Parks, near Yoadvvath Mill } human bones were found; in a fissure of 80 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. person of great talents and enterprise, through whose influence Science has been greatly improved, and the human mind expanded. Yet it is a place, which from its relative situation, and other circum- stances, should not be passed over in silence. Its connexion with the Moors, on which are discovered so many vestiges of ancient British Settlements, Roman Camps, and Roman military ways, ren- ders it important. The hoary head of Antiqui- ty nods on the margin of it ; and its hints remove the mists of time, and throw the imagination back into ages, which had sunk into oblivion ; renewing in idea past transactions, and suggesting the most useful lessons ; enabling us to trace the progress of Civilization, and to view with pleasure its beautify- ing, fertilizing, and felicitating effects. Though this town is so near the Moors, which present such a scene of sterility, the land which sur- rounds it is extremely fruitful. The town is situated on the northern boundary of the vale of Pickering, on elevated ground, which gently descends into that beautiful valley, and is one of a chain of towns and villages, which extend from Helmsley to Seamer near Scarborough : the higher ground, perhaps, having induced the population to build on this belt of limestone, beautiful for situation ; being of a gradual descent, from which the eye is directed across the low ground to the opposite hills ; which the limestone rock, supposed to hare been the remains of bodies thrown iu there after a battle : the gill is called the battle of lays, and the adjoining fields are cal- led lay GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 81 being covered with foliage, have a reviving effect. The road from Helmsley to Scarborough runs through some of these towns, and affords the trav- O * eller the most enchanting scenery. To see hills on the left, covered with trees, from which the birds pour forth their melodious harmony ; and on the right a well cultivated country interspersed with hills, with hedge rows intersecting each other ; form a pleasing variety. While you are thus environed with rural scenery, thegeniusof invention may hov- er over your head, expand the mind, and create inexpressible sensations. From Kirkby- Moors ide, you pass on to the vil- lages of Sinnington, Wrelton, Aislaby, (the seat of the Rev. T. Hayes,) Middleton, and then to the market town of Pickering ; from thence to the village of Thornton, (the seat of Richard Hill, Esq.,) then through the villages of Wilton, Allers- ton, and Ebberston, where there is a handsome villa of the Hotham family : from thence to Snainton, then to Brompton, (the seat of Sir G. Caylev, Bart.) and through the villages of Wykeham, Ay ton, and Palsgrave, to Scarborough. The moor-land on the north of Kirkby-Moorside, is about three miles from it, and is concealed from the view of the trav- eller by the rising ground ; and were it not from a knowledge of the District, even the inhabitants of the vale of Pickering, would have no notion of so bleak and barren a situation. How different is the state of the country in the vi- cinity of Kirkby-Moorside, from the ideas which are formed of it by thoughtful and enlightened strangers, JL 82 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. The name of the town almost chills the feelings of those who are unacquainted with the situation ; and those ideas cannot be altogether removed, but by seeing it. When a person who had formed his notions from the name of the place, is undeceived by the prospect of this delightful Country, he is agreeably sur- prised, and perhaps wishes it had a name more con- genial to'its fertility* The town of Kirby-Moorside, is founded on a yellowish stone, of an intermediate character, be- tween a limestone and sandstone, it effervesces a little with acid, and belongs to that series which lies under the oolite formation. This calcareous sandstone is accompanied with a considerable quan- tity of yellow marl, which being detached from the stone, leaves it in a cavernous state ; as if it had interfered at the formation of the rock, and prevent- ed its regularity. The marl is of the same description, as that which intervenes between all the beds of limestone in this district, and which is often seen filling caverns and fissures, so numerous in the lime- stone. This yellow rock in many places rises to the sur- face, or is covered only with alluvium, partly of the same description, mixed with pebbles of other kinds. It is seen, on the right band side of the road, passing through Nawton towards Helmsley, and at the end of this town, on the right hand side of the road leading to Gillamoor. There is no doubt oi Kirkby-Moorside being an* ANCIENT HISTORY OP KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 8$ cient We have proofs from the accounts in Domes- day, from Kirkdale Church, with which it seems to have been connected ; and from various other cir- cumstances. In the survey made by William the Conqueror, we find that Kirkby-Moorside had two churches,* which was the eighth part of the num- ber in the whole district ; extending as far as Guis- borough, and to the other side of Whitby : it had also two Mills, whilst an amazing extent of country possessed only eight, including those of Kirkby- Moorside. This statement gives us a painful idea of the constant struggles which had taken place for Power in this neighbourhood ; by reason of which 'the country was almost depopulated. Men destroy- ed one another in the most merciless manner, until there were but few left to destroy. The havoc made here by the Romans, and warlike Brigantes, the Britons, the Picts and Scots, the Saxons and Britons, the Saxons and Danes ; and the ferocious conduct of William the Conqueror, is distressing to the imagination. The Churches named in Domesday, relative to this vicinity, were distributed as follows, one in each place ; Seaton near Hinderwell, Easington, Kirk- leatham, Guisborough, Kildale, Ayton, Stokesley, Ormesby, in the manor of Acklam, Ingleby, Seamer beyond Walsgrave, and another at Brompton ; be- sides the two at Kirkby-Moorside, one of which was in the manor of Torbrand, and the other in that of Orm, which last was in all probability the church * It is probable that Kirkdale Church was one of them; 84 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBT-MOORSIDE at Kirkdale. We learn from Domesday also that before the Conquest, Orm was Lord of Kirkdale, then called Chirchebi, or Kirkby, which includes the idea of the existence of houses near it, and that there was then, at least, a Village near the Church. Orm had great possessions in this neigh- bourhood, and in the vale of the Esk. The chief property about Kirkhy-Moorside was his, he was possesser of Danby, Lealholme, and other places in that quarter He was of noble extraction, for his i'ather Gamel, is ranked amongst the Northumbrian nobles, and Onn himself is said to have married Etheldrith the daughter ofAldred EarlofNorth- umbria. Gamel possessed a part of Kiikby*Moor- side, together with the lordship of Lastingham, Spaunton, &c. This Gamel, whose estates lay conti- guous to those of Orm, might be the same with Ga- mel beam ; or Gamel the younger, who headed the confederacy against Tosti, earl of Northumberland. This was the state of this district at the time of the Conquest; after which peiiod there was a great change in property: the greater part of it was taken from its owners, and given to the friends of the Conqueror. There are here the vestiges of two baronial residences ; one the remains of a Castle, on a hill to the east of the town, which belonged to the Stute- ville family, and the other on the west end of it, at the north end of a street called Castle-gate ; which was occasionally the residence of the Nevilles. The gite of ihatMvhich belonged to the Stutevilles, bears marks of strength : it is surrounded by a deep moat, ANCIENT HISTORT OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 85 and is known by the appellation of Mary Rendray's Garden ; from the name of a woman, who in the the latter part of the eighteenth century cultivated it as such. The first of the Estoteville, or Stuteville family in this country, was Robert de Stuteville, who came over with William the Conqueror, and was a great favourite of his; and the family remained fa- vourites of succeeding Princes ; for such was King John's dependence on William, one of them, that he gave him the command of Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland ; with the supreme command of all their castles.* In the reign of the same Prince, and in some preceding reigns, the manor of Kirkby- Moors ide was the subject of great dispute between the fami- lies of Mowbray and Stuteville ;t which was at length confirmed to the Stutevilles, passed to the Nevilles, and afterwards to Villiers, duke of Buck- ingham, in the reign of James I., and then to the Duncombe family, the present possessors. From what I can collect, the fact of the above statement is this : when William the Conqueror came to England, Mowbray and Estoteville accom- panied him ; but Roger Mowbray, and Roger de Estoteville, being deprived of all their possessions by Henry I,, on account of their rebellion, that mo- narch bestowed the greater part of them on Nigel de Albani, a young Norman nobleman ; who mar- * Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, vol.2 p. 528. t IIoTeden, Annal. ad 1200. Lei. col. 1. p. 294. $6 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. ried the heiress of the Mowbrays, and by the command of the King, assumed the name of Mow- bray. He continued to hold the estates of the Estotevilles till the reign of Henry II. ; when the aforenamed dispute arose between the Mowbrays and Estotevilles ; the last of which families was again restored to favour, and the barony of Kirkby- Moorside given to them ; which remained theirs till the time of Joan de Estoteville, daughter of Nicholas de Estoteville, who married Hugh de Wake ; whom she outlived, and then resumed her maiden name ; which was then customary with heiresses. She died 4 of Edward 1 ., and left this and her other es- tates to Baldwin de Wake, her son and heir. The last of the Wake's were three co-heiresses ; one of v whom married the Earl of Westmoreland, who suc- ceeded to the barony of Kirkby- Moors ide. Th impression of the seal of the above Joan de Estote- ville, was a woman riding on horseback, sideway, and holding the bridle in her right hand ; because she was the first who began the custom now in use, for women to ride sideway ; so that our historians are mistaken, who make Ann, Queen of King Richard II., and daughter of Winceslaus the Emper- or, the first who introduced that fashion. It must be highly gratifying to the ladies of Kirk- "by-Moorside to read this, and to reflect on the honour conferred upon them, in living at a place, the lady of which manor introduced so feminine and modest a fashion.* * Tickell's Hull, and Mag. Brit. ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 87 In the reign of Henry I., who came to the throne in the year 1100, Robert de Stuteville founded a Nunnery at Keldholm ; and the Priory of liosedale was also founded by a Robert de Stuteville, in the year 1190. At the celebrated battle of the Standard,* which was fought near Northallerton, in the year 1138 ; we find among the other Yorkshire Barons, Robert de Stuteville, Walter L'Espec, Robert de Brus, Roger de Mowbray, and William de Percy. Respecting the Neville family, who had their occasional residence at the castle, on the west end of the town, a part of which yet remains, they were earls of Westmoreland ; whose principal residence was at Raby Castle, in the county of Durham.t * This battle was occasioned by the opposition of David, King of Scots, to King Stephen ; who entered into the interest of the Empress Maud, and committed the most dreadful ravages in the north of England ; but here he sustained a signal defeat. The battle was bloody and obstinate, and it was not till the utmost effort had been made that the Scots fled. This battle is called the Battle of the Standard, and the scene of action is still distinguished by the name of Standard hill, about three miles north of Northallerton. It is said to have beeu called the Battle of the Standard from a long pole or the mast of a ship, erected upon a Carriage, upon which was suspended the banners of St. Peter, St. John of Beverley, and St. Wilfred of Ripon, having on the top a silver crucifix, and above all, in a silver box was the conse- crated wafer, or supposed body of Jesus Christ. MAT- THEW PARIS. fr Raby Castle is said by Camden, to have had tho most capacious lodging rooms of any castle in the North country ; who observes he saw in it a chamber, wherein was in windows of coloured glass, all the pedigree of the Nevilles j and there is a tower in the Castle, bearing tht 88 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRK BY-MOO RS1D E. We shall have a more correct idea of the family of the Nevilles, by attending to the following pedi- gree : marks of two capital B's, from Bertram Bulmer : another havingthe name of Jane, bastard sister to Henry IV. and wife to Ralph Neville, first earl of Westmoreland. la Camden's time there were three parks belonging to Raby ; whereof two were replenished with deer, and the middle one had a lodge in it. The Stag used to be presented annually, till contests arising, the monks chose to forego the presents. Lord Darlington, to this day, pays to the Chapter of Durham, ^*4., in lieu of the stag. Dugdale's Baronet. 1 p. 193. This castle was built soon after 1378, by John de Neville, by licence from Bishop Hatfield. It is an irregular, but a magnificient and extensive pile. All the towers are square : that great one called Bulmer's is detached, and had on it a bull in relief, holding a flag ; and over him a shield. This bull, well delineated in. Buck's view, has been removed to the gate-way into the farm house, built by the present Lord Darlington, on the hill west of the castle. The founder has also marked this B. Bulmer's tower is now detached ; but joined to the castle before the apartments between them were burnt down. There is a large tower to the north called Clifford's ; but on what account is not known. The grand entrance to the castle is on the east, leading through the great hall, supported by six pillars ; and so goes on through an arch to the west. From this a staircase leads into an upper hall, QOfeetby 36 feet, and 34 feet high, with a flat timber roof. Here assembled in the time of the Nevilles, 700 Knights, who held of that family. 1 Some of the lower apartments have recesses for windows, beds, &c. in the thickness of the wall, which is 9 feet. The oven is at least fifteen feet in diameter, and is now- converted into a wine cellar, divided into ten parts, each holding a hogshead in bottles. The kitchen is a mag- nificent and lofty square, with three chimneys, and an arched roof; lighted by a small cupola in the centre. On the sides are five windows, with a gallery passing all round before them, and four steps from each into the kitchen ; but ending a great height from the floor. The itair-case of communication between the kitchen aud AN8IENT HISTORY F KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 89 No thoughtful person can reflect on the subsequent account of the Earls of Westmoreland, without per- the great hall is slight. A terrace nearly circular sur- rounds the castle. This castle with the immense estate of the Nevilles, was forfeited for treason, in 1570. Sir Henry Vane purchased it of the crown, in 1632: and here entertained Charles I. the next year, in his way from Scotland ; and again in 1639 ; when he commanded a regiment of 1000 men. Sir Henry Vane died here in 1654. This castle, since the reign of Charles I. has be- longed to the ancient family of the Vanes, before named : and gave title of Baron, to Thomas Wentworth, earl of Strafford, in the 15 of Charles I.; to the 110 small jealou- sy of Sir Henry, its owner. Lord Darlington's estate, all of freehold tenure, begins at Piersbridge, and runs to the head of the Tees, with. only the intervention of Eggleston, which was part ot" the estate of the Nevilles ; now belonging to Timothy Hutchinson, Esq., and joins the boundary of Wolsing- ham. Camden also says, there is a place called Stain-Thorpe; or, the stone town ; where was a collegiate church, the work and burial place of the Nevilles. Near this is Raby ; which Cnute, or Canute, King of Denmark, gave to the church of Durham, together with the country round it, and Stain-Thorpe, to hold free for ever. From which time the family of the Nevilles, or de Nova Villa, held Raby ; paying 4, and a stag yearly. They derive their descent from Waltheof, earl of Northumberland : of whose posterity Robert, son of Maldrada, and Lord of Raby, marrying the daughter of Jetfrey Neville, i Norman, whose grand-father Gilbert Neville, is report- ed to have been admiral to King William 1. ; his issue took the name of Neville, and grew up to a most nume- rous and potent family ; who built here a very spacious castle, which was their first and principal seat. These two places, Stain-Thorpe and Raby, are separated only by a small stream: which after a course of a few miles, falls into the river Tees near Selaby. A friend of mine to whose kindness I am very much indebted for many valuable communications, had lately an opportunity of seeing some very ancient and once splendid monuments in Stainthorpo Church, to the raem- M. 90 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. ceiving the shortness of human glory, and beholding the changes which take place in families of the high- est cast. They who are at present elevated may soon be depressed : happy are they, therefore, who look higher than the earth for felicity, and put their trust in him who changes not. Ralph Lord Neville, of Raby Castle, in the coun- ty of Durham ; by way of pre-eminence called the great Earl of Westmoreland : obtained his title on the 29th of September, 1398 ; from Richard II. By his first wife Margaret, daughter of Hugh, Earl of Stafford, who died in 1370, he had issue ; 1. John Lord Neville, his eldest son, died in his father's life-time, 1423. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent, by whom he left issue two sons, Ralph t second Earl of Westmoreland ; and John, who was killed at the battle of Towton, 1461 ; having married Anne, the widow of his nephew John Neville, by whom he had issue Ralph, the third Earl of Westmoreland. 2. Ralph, in right of Mary his wife, was Lord Ferrars, of Ously. 3. Maud, married to Peter Lord Mauley. 4. Alice, married to Sir Thomas Gray. 5. Philippa, married to Thomas Lord Dacres, of Gilsland. 6. Margaret, married to Lord Scroope, of Bolton. 7. Anne, married to Sir Gilbert Umfreville. 8. Margery, abbess of Barking, in Essex. 9. Elizabeth, a Nun. ory of some of the Nevilles : it being the ancient burying place of that once illustrious and powerful family. ANCIENT HISTORY OP KIItKBY-MOORSIDE, 91 By his second wife, Joan daughter of John a Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster,* and sister to the Duke of Exeter, and Bishop of Winchester and half sister of Henry IV., he had thirteen children, 1. Richard, Earl of Salisbury in right of his wife, and father ot Richard the famous Earl of Warwick, John, Marquis of Montacute, and George, Arch- bishop of York. 2. William, in right of Joan his wife Lord Faum- berg, and afterwards created Earl of Kent -died 1462. 3. George, Lord Latimer, which barony waa purchased by his father and settled on him. 4. Edward, Lord Abergavenny, in right of hi wife. 5. Robert, bishop of Durham. 6. Cuthbert. >, ,,j. ... .. 9 v both died without issue. 7. Henry, > 8. Thomas, in right of his wife, Lord Seymore. 9. Catharine, married Thomas Duke of Norfolk. 10. Eleanor, married Henry Earl of Northum- berland. 11. Anne, married Humphrey Duke of Bucking- ham. 12. Jane, a nun. 13. Cicely, married Richard Duke of York, and was mother to King Edward IV. In the year 1414, the Earl of Westmoreland was warden of the Marches; he died the 21st of Oc- tober 1425, and was buried in the quire of Stain- * And his third wife Catharine Swineford. 92 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. drop church, under a stately tomb of alabaster, whereon are the figures of himself and both his wives, though the second was buried at Lincoln.* Charles the sixth and last Earl of Westmoreland, in the year 1570, 13th Eliz. forfeited an estate of the yearly value of thirty thousand pounds; he fled into Flanders, where he lived on a slender pension allowed him by the King of Spain, and died in penury in the year 1584, when the title be- came extinct. Of the family of Neville there were six Earls of Westmoreland, two Earls of Salisbury and War- wick, an Earl of Kent, a Marquis of Montacute, a Duke of Bedford, Baron Ferrars of Ously, Barons ofLalimer, and Barons of Abergavenny ; one Queen, five duchesses ; besides several baronesses and countesses. George Neville, bishop of York, was of this family; who at his installation about 1470. gave a feast, in which were four thousand wood-cocks, four thousand venison pasties, eight seals, and four porpoise?, dainties of that time. Hugh Neville, also one of this family, attended Richard I. in the holy war ; where he slew a lion. On the inside of the roof of the church of Kirkby-Moorside, are the Neville arms ; a shield supported by an angel, field gules, saltier argent. liutchinsori's Excursion to the Lakes. * Ralph Neville, and his first wife, were buried in the church at Stainthorp, in the county of Durham Joan, his second wife, was buried in the minster at Lincoln, November 1440, at the feet of her mother Catherine Swineford. Toplis's Genealogical History of English Sovereigns. ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 93 Danby was the Nevilles, it was first given by the Conqueror to Robert de Brus, who built the castle in it, and dying in 1141, left this and his other es- tates in Yorkshire, to Adam his son, who was de- prived of it by Henry II. ; but Peter, his grandson, earnestly desiring to repossess the lordship and forests of Danby, his ancient inheritance, obtained it of King John, in exchange for other possessions. He died the 13 of John ; and his descendants con- tinued Lords of Danby, till the 55 of Henry III. ; when Peter, the fourth of that name, dying without issue, left his four sisters his heirs; when this and other estates fell to Lucy, the second wife of Marmaduke de Thw eng, and afterwards passed by marriage to William de Latimer, by a daughter of whose descendant it went to John Neville, son of Ralph Lord Neville, ofRaby, who in her right became Lord Latimer ; but John, his son, dying without issue, in the reign of Henry VI,, divers of those lordships of which he died seized were entailed on Ralph, Earl of Westmoreland, his elder brother, who settled them by feoffement upon George, his third son ; who was thereupon summoned to Parlia- ment as Lord Latimer ; in whose posterity this dignity and estate continued till John, Lord Latimer ; who died without male issue in Queen Elizabeth's time ; when his estates were divided amongst his four daughters. Kirkby-Moorside belonged to the Earls of West- moreland, and continued in that family till the IS of Queen Elizabeth ; when Charles, Earl of West- moreland, was attainted, and all his possessions 01 ANCIBNT HISTORY OF KIRKBY- MOORSIDE. confiscated. Tradition says he made his escape in- to Scotland, in the time of a deep snou', and eluded his pursuers by having the shoes of his horse rever- sed ; and that the descendants of the blacksmith who shod his horse, not long since en joyed a house in Castle-gate, as a reward for their ancestor's ser- vice, at the rent of a farthing a year : with the privilege of shooting and hunting. There is now in the chancel of the church at Kirkby-Moorside, a stone reversed to preserve the device, which is said to cover the remains of the blacksmith before na- med ; having the blacksmith's arms on it. This Manor remained in the possession of the crown, till the reign of James I. ; who gave it to his favourite Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; a great statesman, and memorable in English history, for having been the favourite of two kings ; James I. and Charles I. He was born in 1592, and was ass- assinated by Felton, a discontented lieutenant, at Portsmouth in 1628. The manor of Kirkby-Moor- side then descended to George, his son ; a very distinguished statesman, a poet also, and dramatic writer, born in 1627. His morals were bad, and as he lived a profligate, so he died in comparatively low circumstances ; in a house in this town, in the market place, at the corner of a street called Tinley Garth, not far from the Vicarage, and now inhabit- ed by Mr. Cole, brother-in-law to Mr. Atkinson, the late occupier. He died after a short illness of an inflammation, in consequence of sitting on the ground when fatigued with hunting; aged 60 years. ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIIlK.BY-MOOH8IDtf. 05 The following letter written by Lord Arran, afterwards Dukeof Hamilton, to Dr. Sprat, bishop of Rochester, formerly chaplain to the Duke, ap- peared in the Whitehall Evening Post, January 3, 1784, in which is given a circumstantial account of the Duke's last moments. Kerby-moor Sjde, April 17, 1687. My Loid, Mere chance having thrown me into these parts by accident, as 1 was at York, in my journey towards Scotland, I heard of the Duke of Buckingham's illness here, which made me take a resolution of waiting upon his Grace, to see what condition he was in. I arrived here on Friday in the afternoon, where I found him in a very lo\v condition : he had been lon To the Constables of Glaizsdale, Eg ton, Harwoodale, Crosscliflfe, old * * * : Rackness, Silpha, and Seymour, in the sd Rid. William Cooper, and William Adamson, two va- grant Boyes, both of them of the age of 13 years a piece, being brought before roe this day by the con- stable of danby in this Rid. for unlawfull wandring and begging in that constablery, informe mee that they passed through and begged in every of yor Constablery, and were not apprehended by any pson, for which neglect of yor duty, you every one forfeit the sum of 2s for each of them, and 20s by a Jate act, to be disposed of as the sd Stat. directs. Wherefore that some notice may be taken of ye great neglect, and that yor payments may not be such as you can have any cause to complain of them, ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 101 I do hereby order and direct you to pay unto the constable of danby aforesd, or his ordr, each of you, the sum of four shillings, to be disposed of in pt, towards the s J constable's reward and charges, and ptly to provide something of cloathing for the sd poor Boyes. I hope you will not fail to pay this, wch is offered in a moderate manner, and in kind- ness to you; otherwise yor neglect herein, will con- strain mee to compell you, to pay ye other 20s, forfeited by the late Stat. as above. Welburn, Oct 5th, 1700. J. GIBSON. Pope, the poet, in writing of the place in which the Duke died, and the circumstances of his death, has these lines. " In the worst inn's worst room with mat half hung, The floors of plaister, and the walls of dung, On once a flock bed, but repair'd with straw, With tape-tied curtains never meant to draw, The George and Garter dangling from that bed "Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red, Great Villiers lies alas ! howchang'd from him That life of pleasure, and that soul of whim ! Gallant and gay in Cliveden's proud alcove, The bower of wanton Shrewsbury* and love ; . * A note upon these lines, by one of Pope's commen- tators, mentions that the Duke of Buckingham killed the Earl of Shrewsbury, husband to this abandoned woman, in a duel ; and that the Countess in the habit of a page, held the Duke's horse, during the combat. The fact was as follows : the Duke having shamefully boasted of the success of his amours, and cruelly insulted the Earl with his misfortune, provoked him to send a challenge. They agreed to fight at Barns- Elms, in the presence of two gentlemen, whom they appointed their seconds. They 102 ANCIENT HISTORY OF K IRK11Y-MOORSIBE, \ Or just as gay at council, in a ring Of mimic statesmen and their merry king. No wit to flatter, left of all his store, No fool to laugh at, which he valued more; There, victor of his health, of fortune, friends, And fame, this Lord of useless thousands ends." The following is a letter from the Duke of Buck- ingham, to his particular friend Dr. Barrow. Dear Doctor, I always looked upon you (o be a person of true virtue, and know you to have a sound understanding ; for, however I may have acted in opposition to the principles of religion, or fought with swords, and all four engaged at the same time. The first thrust was fatal to the Earl of Shrews- bury ; who was a feeble diminutive person, and unfit for such a contest ; but the Earl's friend killed the Duke's .second at the same instant. Buckingham, elated with his victory, hastened to the Countess at Cliveden ; where he boasted of the murder of her husband ; whose blood he showed her upon his sword, aa a trophy of his prow- ess. Pope must have been misinformed respecting the house in which the Duke of Buckingham died ; as there is no tradition here ofits ever having been an Inn, ind from its present appearance it must at that time have been, ex- cepting one, the best house in the town. It is built in the ancient stile, with projecting wings. The length of the front is 16 yards : and whatever improvements may- have been in the house since that time, the shall of it re- mains as it was. The room in which the Duke died, is on the second floor in the front of the house, and is the best lodging room in it. The boards are fir, which were there at the time of his decease. Many years after his death, a seal was found in a crevice, in the room in which he expired, having the Buckingham arms on it, which is supposed to have been his ; and is now iu the possession of Mr. William Cole. ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOOHSIDE. 103 the dictates of reason, I can honestly assure you, I have always had the highest veneration for both. The world and I shake hands ; for I dare affirm we are heartily weary of each other. Oh ! what a pro- digal have I been of that most valuable of all pos- sessions, Time ! 1 have squandered it away with a profusion unparallelled ; and now, when the enjoy- ment of a few days would be worth the world, I cannot flatter myself with the prospect of half a dozen hours. How despicable, my dear friend, is that man who never prays to his God, but in the hour of distress 1 In what manner can he suppli- cate that omnipotent Being in his affliction, whom in the time of his prosperity he never remembered with reverence ? Do not brand me with infidelity, when 1 tell you I am almost ashamed to offer up my petition at the Throne of Grace, or to implore that Divine mercy in the next world, which I have scandalously abused in this. Shall ingratitude to man be looked upon as the blackest of crimes, and not ingratitude to God ? Shall an insult offered to the King be look- ed upon in the most offensive light, and yet no notice taken when the King of Kings is treated with indignity and disrepect ? The companions of my former libertinism would scarcely believe their eyes, were you to show this epistle. They would laugh at me as a dreaming enthusiast ; or pity me as a timorous wretch, who was shocked at the appearance of futurity : but whoever laughs at me for being right, or pities me for being sensible of my errors, is more entitled to 104 ANCIENT HISTORY Off K1KKB Y-MOORSIDE. my compassion than resentment. A future state may well enough strike terror into any man, who has not acted well in this life ; and he must have an uncommon share of courage indeed, who does not shrink at the presence of God. The apprehen- sions of death will soon bring the most profligate to a proper use of his understanding. To what a sit- uation am I now reduced ! Is this odious little hut a suitable lodging for a prince ? Is this anxiety of mind becoming the character of a Christian ? From my rank, I might have expected affluence to wait upon my life ; from religion and understanding, peace to smile upon my end : instead of which I am afflicted with poverty, and haunted with remorse; despised by my country, and 1 fear forsaken by my God! There is nothing so dangerous as extraordinary abilities. I cannot be accused of vanity now, by being sensible that I was once possessed of uncom- mon qualifications, especially as I sincerely regret that I ever had them. My rank in life made these accomplishments still more conspicuous ; and fas- cinated by the general applause which they procu- red, I never considered the proper means by which they should be displayed. Hence, to procure a smile from a blockhead whom I despised, I have fre- quently treated the virtuous with disrespect ; and sported with the holy name of heaven, to obtain a laugh from a parcel of fools ; who were entitled to nothing but contempt. Your men of wit generally lo k upon themselves as discharged from the duties ofreligion, and confine ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. 103 the doctrines of the gospel to people of meaner un- derstandings. It is a sort of derogation in their opinion, to comply with the rules of Christianity ; and they reckon that man possessed of a narrow ge- nius, who studies to be good. What a pity that the Holy Writings are not made the criterion of true judgment ; or that any person should pass for a fine gentleman in this world, but he that appears solicitous about his happiness in the next. I am forsaken by all my acquaintances ; utterly neglected by the friends of my bosom, and the de- pendents on my bounty ; but no matter ! lam not fit to con verse with the former, and have no abilities to serve the latter. Let me not, however, be for- saken by the good. Favour me with a visit as soon as possible. Writing to you gives me some ease ; especially on a subject I could talk of for ever. I am of opinion, this is the last visit I shall ever solicit from you ; my distemper is powerful ; come and pray for the departing spirit of the poor un- happy " BUCKINGHAM?'* * After having read Lord Arran's letter, some have doubted the authenticity of this ; but when we consider the Duke's grc^t talents, how much he had been accus- tomed to write, and his comparative strength of body and mind, nearly to his last moments, our doubts will be ob- viated ; for though he was speechless the last day of his existence, that would perhaps make no difference in his bodily strength ; and in the prospect of eternity, and terrified at the approach of death, his ideas would flow as fast as his pen could record them. I see, therefore, no reason to doubt this letter being the production of the Duke's own pen, and the contents of it expressive of the powerful feelings of his heart. Q 106 ANCIENT HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDB. Tn an old Register book belonging to the parish, is simply recorded the burial of this once illustri- ous personage; of which the following is a literal Copy ; Burials/ 1687. April 17th, Gorges viluas, Lord dooke of bookingarn. This entry was intended to record the burial of the Duke of Buckingham, though he was not en- tombed here, but in London, in the family vault in Westminster Abbey.* See Aikin's Biog. Diet. Places of Worship. The Church, t is a neat and commodious build- * From the entry in the Church Register, recording the burial of the Duke of Buckingham, some have doubt- ed the truth of the assertion of Dr. Aikin, of his having been interred in Westminster Abbey. This doubt however will be removed, by consulting Lord Ar- ran's Letter. It is not likely that the Duke of Buckingham, however reduced in circumstances, would be buried at Kirkby-Moorside, without a monument of some description being raised to his memory. One of the family, in whose possession the house is, in which the Duke died, and has been nearly the whole of the time since his death, informed me a few days since, that he was there laid in state, in the room in which he expired ; and although this is tradition, it is a strong presumptive evidence of his having been buried in a su- perior style. f January 1st, 1779, a tempestuous wind blew a sheet of Lead, SOOlb wt.from the top of the Church, over the chancel, and carried it across the church-yard, over a house into a street, the distance of 60 yards. A memo- randum of this singular circumstance was made by William Ellerker 3 the present oYerseer. 108 HISTORY CP KIRKBY-MOORSIDEJ her six sons and five daughters, all kneeling. Above the plate are these lines on slips of black Marble, which as well as the plates are let into a slab of Derbyshire Marble. The inscription is as follows, READER, Prepare for Death, for if the fatall Sheares Covld have bene stay'd, by prayers, sighes, or teares, They had bene stay'd, and this tombe thov see'sthere, Had not erected beene, yet many a yeare. Below the plate is the following inscription : HERE LYETH THE BODY OF MY LADY BROOKE, WHO WHILE SHE LYVED WAS A GOOD WOMAN, A VERY GOOD MOTHER, AND AN EXCEDING GOOD WIFE. . Of these, one only left issue, Elizabeth, married to Sir Edward Greville, of Milcote, in Warwickshire. This brought Beauchamp's-court, and agreat estate to Greville, who was knighted,and died in 1559 ; leaving two sons, of whom Robert, the younger, was ancestor to the pres- ent Earl of Warwick and Brooke. The Willoughby family was related to the Nevilles ; for in the time of Henry VII., there was a contest between Richard Lord Latimer, and Sir Robert Willoughby, Lord Brooke, for the barony of Latimer. The said Lord Brooke challenge- ed the barony as cousin, and heir of Elizabeth, his great grand-mother ; who was sister and heir of John Neville. The Neville family possessed the manor of Kirkby- IVIoorside, Danby, and other places in Yorkshire, and it is probable that the above Lady Brooke lived here, or in, the neighbourhood. dome's Analogia Honorum. THE CHURCH. 109 HERSOVLEIS AT REST Wxn.GOD, FOR SHE WAS SVRE, YT. HER REDEMER LYVED, AND THAT THOUGH VVORMES DESTROY- ED HER BODY, YET SHE SHOVLD SEE GOD IN TIER FLESH. SHEE DYED THE 12xn OF JVLY, 1600. On the same wall, in the centre of a neat Tablet, is a brass plate with an inscription, recording the memory of The Rev. William Comber, predecessor of the Rev. Joseph Smyth, who was an active Magistrate, using every means to suppress vice in the Town ; which will immortalize his memory. The inscription is expressed thus, THE REV. WILLIAM COMBER, A. M. Died March 24, 1810, ^Etat. 85, and was buried near the Family Vault in STONEGRAVE CHURCH. He was the revered pastor of this parish for upwards of 54 years, and his grateful hearers thus briefly record his memory, for his unceasing attention to their spiritual and temporal interests. On the same wall also, is an ancient Monument of the Hobson family late of Cropton, some bran- ches of which occupied the Hall in Castle-gate, now inhabited by Mr. Bearcroft. Near this is a 110 HISTORY OP KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. neat monument recording the memory of some members of the Atkinson family. And on the wall of the south aisle is another belonging to the family of the Robinsons of Keldholme. A few years ago when this Church was repairing, there was descoveredi nthe foundation of the north wall of the Chancel, a grave lined with a kind of Stucco, containing a Skeleton, and covered with a stone, on which a cross was carved : there had been an arched recess over the place. A plate of metal was found near the head ; which is now in the poss- ession of Mr. W. Bearcroft ; but is so completely oxydized, as to bear no visible inscription. There is also in the wall of the vestry, near the door leading from the chancel, a brass plate with aa engraving, which is thus expressed : Here lie the bodies of Richard James, and Henry Musgrave ; the first born Sept. 1, 1707, the latter born Feb. 29, 1711 : they both died in their infancy ; being the sons of the Rev. James Musgrave, son of Sir Richd. Musgrave, of Hay ton Castle, in Cumberland, Bart. by Catherine his wife, daughter of James Perrot, of Northigh, in Oxford- shire, Esq. he was initiated into this Church 1707 and removed to Gransden in Cambridgshire, 1714. By the assistance of the Rev. Joseph Smyth, I have procured from the church register, the follow- ing list of Vicars, and other valuable information. But the registers of this parish previous to the THE CHURCH. Ill year 1706, are so much faded in many places as to preclude the possibility of going further back. The names of Vicars which could be distinguished, and which are signed to the parish accounts are J656, William Lack, Minister. 1662, Thomas Hardwich, Vicar. 1683, Thomas Shepherd, Vicar. 1726, Henry Mander, Vicar. The Rev. James Musgrave vacated this vicarage in the year 1714, and as the Rev. William Comber, had been Vicar of the parish 54 years, and exchang- ed with the Rev. Mr. Mander for a living in Lin- colnshire, which exchange must have taken place about the year 1 756, there must have been an hia- tus in the list of Vicars, from the time of Mr. Mus- grave to Mr. Mander. Amongst a number of burials relative to the clergy, we have an account of Thomas Shepherd Vicar, having been interred here, Jan. 19, 1706 : Mrs. Rachel Shepherd, in 1713 : Rev. Robert Man- sel, curate in 1744 ; and Mrs. Anne, wife of the Rev. Mr. Maunder, in 1753. The following is from the register book, in the time of the Commonwealth, the year in which Cromwell dissolved the long parliament : A Register Booke for the Parish of Kirby more- side, Comencing the 29th day of September, one thousand six hundred nifty and three, According to a late act made touching marriages and the Regis- tering thereof, and allsoe touching Births and Bur- ialls. I having Received Certificate from the inhabit 112 HISTORY OP KIRKliY MOORSIDE. iauts of the Parish of Kirby more side in these words, These are to Certify whom it may concern, that wee whose names are underwritten, together with the greatest number of the rest of the Parishioners, doe elect andchuse William Sturdy of Kirbymore- side, to be the Parish Register there, according to a late act of Parliament, In testimony whereof wee have hereunto sett our hands. To be Trustees, William Lack, Minister, Otterburn, Junr. George Dowthwaite, Robert Dob- son, Henry Otterburn, Ralph , Richard Judson, George Sleightholm, Robert Luke, Ralph , George Brand, Nicholas Markham, Wil- liam Taylor. Upon Consideration of which Certificate, and that the said William Sturdy has made oath that he will truly and faithfully to the utmost of his power Discharge the Duty of the said Register, I doe hereby approve of the said William Sturdy, to be the said Parish Register, according as is in the aid Certificate desired, I being a Justice of Peace within the North Ridding of Yorkeshire. Witness my hand and Scale, the seventh day of November, one thousand six hundred and fifty three, Luke Robinson. Extracts from the above Registers. Elizabeth Ffisher wife of Nicholas Ffisher who was buried the 18th day of November 1653. Births of Children 1653. Robert Kiddsone of Geo. Kidd borne the 17th of November. John Greene and Elizabeth Bransdale, both of Gil- *H CJIUR.CH. amore, published the 3<1, the 10th, and the 17th days of August, 1656. The llth day of September, 1656* The solemnization of marriage between John Greene aged one and thirtie years, and Elizabeth Pransdale aged three and twentie years both of Gillamore in the Psh Kirkbymoreside,, was the day and yeare abovesaid Pformed before Luke Robin- son Esqre. a Justice of Peace withn ye north Ridding ff Yorkeshire, according to the act in that behalfe made, in the presence of Richard Rowlands, Chris- topher Greene, Williu Hoggart, Willm Colly er, all of Gillamoor, and Thomas Dawson of fad moor, and Anthony Mylburne of Kirbymoreside. Luke Robinson. This method of solemnizing marriages, commen- ced on the 15th day of Dec. 1653, and continued until the 27th day of April, 1658; it might have continued longer, but there is no further recprd ia our registers. Amongst the names of the Justices of Peace who were present at the ceremony of mar- riages, are, Luke Robinson, as aforesaid, whose name most frequently occurs, Christopher Percehay, George Marwood, Aylmere, Benjamin Nor- cliffe, and Richard Etherington, Esqrs. It does not appear, however, that a Justice of the Peace always presided at the ceremony ; for there is one instance ofits having been performed in the presence of John Welbury, chief constable of Langbaurghe, and in another instance, neither a Justice of the Peace, nor a chief constable were personally present* 114 HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. The publication on these separate days, at the in- terval of a week each, always proceeded the cere- mony of marriage. w The same method of entering baptisms and burials was continued from 1653 to 1784 ; when the the much superior method recommended by Arch- bishop Markham, was introduced ; but it was su- perseded by an act of parliament, 52 Geo. III. ; which was put in force on the 1st Jan. 1813. In regard to the longevity of the inhabitants of this parish, there is no criterion by which we can form any judgment. One solitary instance only of a person's age being mentioned, occurs in the year 1719; when Elizabeth Harrison was buried at the advanced age of above 100 years. Since the 25th of March, 1783, the age of each person has been specified : numerous have been the burials of people between the ages of 75 and 79 years ; forty aged 80 years each ; eleven 81 years ; twenty 82 years ; six- teen 83 years; twenty-five 84 years; fourteen 85 years ; nineteen 86 years ; nine 87 years ; thirteen 88 years; four 89 years; six 90 years; two 91 years ; four 92 years ; one 93 years ; one 96 years ; two 97 and one 99 years ! In the year 1814, Jan. 14th, was baptized Jane, daughter of James and Esther Swales ; and on the 28th of Dec., in the same year, was baptized Jere- miah, the son of the same James and Esther Swales ; being the first and last of one hundred and one bap- tisms, which were solemnized in this parish in the course of that year ! In the course of the year 1821, the number of baptisms of males and females was THE 6HURCH, &C. 115 nearly equal, being 46 males and 47 females ; and the number of burials exactly equal, being 24 inales and 24 females ! The greatest mortality that has ever occured in the annals of this parish, was in the year 1815 ; when 78 individuals paid the great debt of nature : many aged people died in the months of February, March, and April ; and though a very malignant species of typhus fever raged in the town, it could only be ascertained that 6 people died in consequence of that disorder. In the year 1821, died suddenly, John Sonley and William Wildon, within twodaysof each other, each master tailors. They had been fellow apprentices and journeymen ; each of them had a coroner's inquest ; each of them was thrice married ; each of them left a widow; each of them was a member of the same Friendly Society ; and their ages were nearly equal, the one being 69, and the other 71 years ! ! There is here a commodious chapel, belonging- to dissenters of the Independent denomination ; built by subscription, in the year 1793, by John Parkinson, Mason, and John Choplin, Carpenter. Near the east wall of the chapel, under the altar pew> are deposited the remains of Miss Hannah Harrison, who died Oct. 16th, 1812: also Mrs. Marsden, aunt to Miss Harrison, who was interred Nov. 1821. She was a steady friend to the cause of .-Christ here, and was not unmindful of its wel- fare to the last period of her life : she endowed the chapel with a small sum vested in the hands of trustees, and lodged in the new 4 per cents. 116 HISTORY OF KIRKBY-HOORSIDB. There is entombed in the same vault, Mr. Robert Harrison, Brother to Mrs. Marsden, and Father to the above Miss Harrison. There is here a chapel belonging to the Society of Friends, displaying that neatness, and conducted with that order, which are peculiar to that people. ^Likewise a neat chapel belonging to the society of Methodists. The Toll- Booth, which was built in the begin- ning of the eighteenth century, is an object that generally strikes the eye of a stranger. It is a noble double roofed stone edifice; but from being neglect- ed and out of repair, has the appearance of great- er antiquity than belongs* to it ; but it is likely in a short time to undergo that repair it has so long needed. It was principally built with materials from the ruins of Neville Castle, and was originally intended for such general purposes as it now answers. It is large and lofty, and from the top commands a beautiful and distant prospect. At the north end it has a flight of broad stone steps which lead into a spacious and principal chamber, in which are sever- al massive stone pillars, in a line through the middle, tosupport the floor of the room above. This room is occasionally used for the accommodation of public assemblies. The other part of the building consists tif a row of steps in the front, wifh cellars under them ; one of which constitutes a temporary prison The back part forms one side of the Shambles, and b'as a row of butcher's shops in it. The remaining chambers are occupied as ware-houses, granaries^ cabhiet-makers' work shops, &c. The building RIVULETS. 117 contains about thirty different rooms, variously oc- cupied. Here is also a School, built by subscription, in the year 1796. There is no regular Bank in the town ; but Bank* ing Business is transacted by John Watson, Esq., under the sanction of Messrs, Wentworth, and Co., York. There were formerly two ponds above Kirkby- Moorside, one on the north of the site of Stuteville castle, and the other on the south of it, which sup- plied the town with water. These ponds were call- ed bibbers, or, drinkers, in consequence of the water being collected into them by drains, &c., from the surface of the marly land near them ; and the word bibbers was changed in pronunciation, into vivers : hence the hills on the N. and N. E. of Kirkby-Moor- side, are called vivers-hills. The use of these ponds or bibbers was at length superseded, by the town being supplied with water in another manner. The villages -and hamlets in the vicinity of Kirkby-Moor- side and Helmsley, are supplied with soft water, by several artificial rills, or small streams, from the moors on the north of them. That of Kirkby- Moorside, which was the first, and is the largest, was brought to Gillamoor and Fadmoor, about the year 1747, and about ten years after was cut afresh and extended to this place. This rill is nearly ten miles in length, and the first cost was noc quite jglOO. In the act of parliament for inclosing the commons and common fields, passed in 1788, a clause was inserted for the future protection of 118 HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDE. this stream ; and in pursuance of this authority, the commissioners in their award gave laws for the iqanagement of it. Similar streams of water have since been brought to Skiplam, Welburn, Nawton, Pockley, Carlton, and Griff, near Duncombe Park. Charitable Institutions. There are here three Sunday Schools ; one sup- ported by the friends of the established Church ; another by the Independents, and a third by the Methodists. . Here are two institutions called Friendly Societies established for mutual assistance ; one of which was begun in the year 1777, and the other in 1819. The principal manufacture of the town is Linen, but is not carried on to a great extent. Inns, Carriers, and Fairs. Here are two posting-houses ; the Green Drag- on, at the entrance from Pickering, kept by Mr. John Atkinson; and the White Horse, at the en- trance from York, kept by Mr. Harwood. The carriage conveyances are, to York, twice a TV eek, Monday and Thursday ; to Scarborough on Tuesday : to Thirsk on Friday ; to Malton once a week, regularly ; to Stokesley and Stockton twice ; to Pickering three times, and to Helmsley twice. : , The Fairs are Whit-wednesday, and Sept. 18th. A Market weekly, on Wednesday. , Here is a general daily Post, by a bag direct from York ; which comes in at 8 o'clock in the morning, and leave at 12. POPULATION, &C. 119 Also, a Printing-Gffice, where letter-press print- ing is neatly executed. Population, fyc. The number of houses in the year 1801, was 267, families 299, and persons 1396; in 1811, 319 houses, 356 families, and 1673 persons : and in the year 1821, 369 houses, 405 families, and 1876 inhabit- ants. The amount of poor-rates and parochial assess- ments for the year 1823, was ^464. 2s. 5d. HO HISTORY OF KIRK.BY-MOORSIDE. A Farewell Prospect from V hers'' -Hills, near Kirkby-Moorside : presented to me by a Gentleman^ whose name 1 am not to mention. What an expanse ! How striking is the view \ Tho' often seen 'tis yet as ever new ! From every hill the partial sights surprise, Bat here the whole in one expansion lies. Quickly ad vane' d to this commanding height, All bursts at once on the enraptur'd sight, Gives the wide landscape stretch'd afar, and near, Where towns, fields, woods, in raried tints appear. Kirkby stands first as at my feet below, Screen'd by these rising grounds when tempests blow, Whose Terdant sides, and firs, and oaks display A pleasing aspect in the face of day. While to the south and west it far commands, Extensive openings over fertile lands, From whence the people temp'rate breezes share, And reap the blessings of a healthful air. The town itself to grandeur has no claim, Nor stands it noted in the ranks of fame ; And yet revers'd but few are doom'd to know Forlorn abodes, in dirt, and want and woe ; For seldom here the lazy wretch we meet, In tatter'd garments, and with shoeless feet ; Nor the lost child, whose sickly looks declare Want of nutrition, and a mother's care : But frte'd extremes, extremes too oft at strife, They mostly fill the middle ranks in life ; Well fed and cloth'd, they present times enjoy, With common comforts, and no hard employ ; Notforc'd to mines, in deeps beneath the soil, Jv or other labours of unhealthful toil. A FAREWELL PHOSPICT. Life passes on, with riches not elate, Nor meanly grov'liog in a sordid state. See round the place the fruitful orchards rise, Alaad of fruit ! that fruitless lands supplies ! See how the firs and spiring poplars shewr Their lofty heads, and decorate the view ; Mark in the fields the stately oaks that spread, Each far and wide, a thick umbrageous head ; Where fly-teiz'd herds and panting flocks repai* To take their shelter in a cooler air ; Standing in groups, or at their leisure laid, Supinely slumb'ring in the grateful shade. See the rich crops of corn so thickly stand, With bounteous promise over all the land. Prolific soils ! that annual burthens bear, Enough for home, and vast excess to spare : Hence a large surplus goes where need commands, Diffusing plenty over sterile lands ; Rewarding there the manufacturer's toil, Where population over-stocks the soil. The thick-grown hedges intermix'd with trees, And thriving orchards, all combine to please. These I admire ; but give me leave to say, Half I could wish your verdant shades away; For while the richness giv; s the eye delight, They hide the village from the roving sigtit, And wrap the villas in the general green, To stand secluded, or but dimly seen. On diff 'rent sides, where now I take my slandj Are many vallies in this varied land ; Where woods, rocks, waters, artless nature shew, And change the thoughts as they exchange the view* Romantic scenes ! for contemplation made, Q 122 HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIDB. In open wand'rings, or the cooling shade } Where rural objects are at once combin'd, To please the fancy and compose the mind ; Where in retirement, free from noise and strife, We taste a portion of the charms of life ; Sweet solitude ! enjoy'd in pleasing calm ; Grateful repose; a soft consoling balm. Yet if indulg'd too much, it may, we find, Depress the spirits and o'er-cloud the mind ; But mix'd with active scenes it tends through time, To cheer by change, and prompt the thought sublime ; To raise reflection, from the world apart, Advance in wisdom, and improve the heart. Most pleasing vales ! where I've been wont to spend Some fleeting moments with my social friend, While the thick woods, which ornament each place Echoe'd the warblings of the tuneful race ; For nature there with liberal supply, Has pleas'd the ear, and gratified the eye. But higher objects stand to intervene, To keep these spots to distant sight unseen, Reserv'd for those who grateful visits pay, In social rambles, or a musing stray. I turn to take perhaps my last survey, And, with reluctance, ere I go, to say ; The time is come that 1 must bid adieu To all the pleasures I have had in you: Adieu ye Woods and Groves, ye pleasing streams; Yet live in memory, and revive in dreams; May thought recall, may visions oft renew, And bring, repeated, every charm to view. Adieu my friends, and all ! for cares command To distant charters in this sea-girt land : A FAREWELL PROSPECT. 123 And though perhaps some less luxuriant spot, May, like to thousands, be my portion'd lot, Yet let me not repine, sinco 'tis not found True peace and comforts to one place are bound, For I hare seen them blest, with all endear'd Where nothing pleasing to the eye appear'd. May such be mine I be where I may, to find Through resignation a contented mind ; \eteven then I'll live in hope to ee . These times return, renew'd again to me, When I may join my select few once more, In sweet communion, as I've done before ; And o'er and o'er re-trace these steps again;- The vales re-visit, and re-view the plain. Q 8. HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOOR61DE. SLEIGHTHOLME-DALE. Sleigh tholme-dale, is a hamlet, in the township of Fad- moor, and parish of Kirkby-Moorside. Jt is situated about three miles N. W. of the latter place, in a situation extremely romantic and soothing. The northern extremity of it opens to the sable moors ; on the west side of which are abrupt and winding cliffs, which vary the prospect, and heighten the pleasure of the inquisitive visitor. The valley, which lies north and south, having the Hodge-beck winding through it, is beautified by sloping woods, and frequented by birds ; whose melody, in suitable seasons, increases the pleasure of the place. Here you may roam, perhaps unobserved by human eye : here you have the advantage of retiring from the circles of detraction, and of listening to the voices of the feathered tribes, eloquent in their Maker's praise; they sound unstudied notes; they chaunt their melody by instinctive influence ; they pour their bold notes upon the ear, and then lower and soften them, leading the imagination captive ; till the mind catching the sympathy, loses all its un- pleasant feelings in the spontaneous effusion. A person in this situation, acquainted with the hea- then my thology, might assimilate it to the fabled Elysium ; which is represented as abounding with all Ihe delights, that pleasant fields, shaded groves, and temperate air, can produce. Not that the sit- uation has really such charms as are represented in that description ; but it may have enough to re- mind him of it. Soothing Solitude ! may I ever SLEIGHTHOLME-DAI/E. delight in it ; and find that happiness there, which cannot be found in the circles of dissipation ; or in the society of those who are influenced by self-in- terest and deceit. Here the thoughts become sublime : and undisturbed by surrounding objects, may ascend to that all-wise and all-powerful Being, who gave birth to M orlds ; who formed these little songsters, so grateful and amusing ; which pour such harmony into my ears, and excite such pleasure in my heart. What is all the glittering pomp and grandeur of the higher circles of society to this? All things here are in their native purity, unadorned by art ; but presenting such scenery as art cannot exhibit. What beauties are here ! What a variety of tints are produced by the foliage of the trees, and diversity of flowers ! On the northern termination of the dale, is a spring of mineral water, called Sleightholme-Dale Spaw. It has been analyzed by Mr. Phillips, of London : it contains a quantity of chalybeate, and slightly impregnated with sulphur, and in many cases has been found very beneficial. In the year 1812, the spring was uncovered ; the water ran into an excavation, in which any person was at liberty to bathe. After that, Mr. Simpson, the owner of the property, and one of the society of Friends, built a house over it, and prepared a bath, for the accommodation of visitors. The person who lives in the dwelling, is prepared to accommodate those who come to bathe, with every thing necessary for the purpose, and to provide tea, &c., for those who way choose to partake of it. There is also a 126 HISTORY OF KIRKBY-MOORSIBE. respectable house near the Spavv, for the accommo- dation of company ; at which persons from a distance may lodge and board. The subjoined are lines written by an unknown hand, for an inscription at this Spaw : they are said to have been found there, on the 21st of July, 1806, and were presented to me for insertion in this history. Ye maim'd and ye crippled of every degree, Who have sought for relief, yet in Tain, Come here, and try bathing, your bathing is free; For I offer no service for gain. By chance, it was found that the lame I restore, To enjoy a sound vigorous state ; That cripples I raise, though contracted before. And the aged I re-animate. Not only the lame lay their crutches aside, But other disorders I cure : For by drinking, and bathing in my little tide, The blood becomes sweeten'd and pure. If dukes, lords, and nobles were here to resort, And deck me with grandeur around ; I might in the nation gain such a report, At no other spaw ver found. ( 127 ) GENERAL HISTORY OF MONASTERIES. Before I enter on the history of Keldholme Prio- ry, I shall occupy the attention of the reader, in detailing the rise and progress of Monks and Mon- asteries, and in shewing the connexion they had with the advancement of Christianity ; that his mind may be prepared for the more profitable read- ing of the accounts of the various religious houses, which are given in this work. The introduction of the Christian religion into this country, was very early ; and though I am not disposed to credit every thing, which is recorded of the first ages of it ; yet I shall endeavour to shew that Britain participated in its benefits, not long after the commencement of the Christian era. Not all Britain ; but those places which lay near the coasts, on which the Christian missionaries landed ; and churches and monasteries, or religious houses, were built at different times, and by various persons, as circumstances offered, and inclination suited. It is said, though with little probability, that in the year A. D. 63, Joseph of Arimathea, who buried the body of Christ, came here and laid the founda- tion of the Christian faith in the western parts, at a place called Thurdet, now Glastonbury, and that there came with him Mary Magdalen, and Martha : that Simon Zelotes suffered Martyrdom in Britain ; and that St. Peter, and St. Paul, came into this Island, and preached the gospel. Whether this b true er not, it is believed that it was preached about 128 OENEEAL HISTORY that time, in this kingdom ; although it made but small progress, and met with some persecution. At this time St. Alban suffered martyrdom at Ve- rulam ; and at Lichfield, shortly after, no fewer than a thousand were put to death. In the year 180, when Lucius was king of this Island, Elutherius, then bishop of Rome, sent Fa- ganus, and Domanus to assist him ; upon whose preaching, the temples of the heathenish Fiarains, and arch Flamins, one and thirty in number, were converted to so many bishops' sees ; whereof Lon- don, York, and Caerleyn, now St. Davids, were made the metropolitans of the province. There was, in J684, a table in the parish church of St. Peter, in Cornhill, London, which recorded that the foundation thereof was laid by King Lucius, and that this church was the cathedral to the Arch- bishop's see. This account is no doubt exaggera- ted; but it seems that Christianity was introduced here very early, and that the missionaries did some good in some parts of the Island ; though their in- fluence was not general. In the beginning of the fourth century, we have more correct accounts ; or, at least those on which we can rely with greater certainty ; respecting the progress of the gospel. Constantine the Great, after having defeated the tyrant Maxentius, in the year 312, granted to the Christians full power of living according to their own laws and institutions. The year after this, Constantine the Great embraced Christianity ; in consequence, as it is said, of a miraculous cross, OP MONASTERIES, &C. 129 which appeared to him in the air, as he was march- ing towards Rome, to aitack Maxentius ; with the inscription : * Hac Vince,* In this conquer. He was convinced, in time, that Christianity bore the marks of celestial truth, and divine origin, and ex- horted his subjects to embrace the gospel, and at length employed all the force of his authority, in the abolition of the ancient superstition ; and to- ward the latter end of his life, he issued edicts, for destroying- the heathen temples, and prohibiting sacrifices. This would make a change in favour of Christianity here ; Britain being at that time a part of the Roman empire. In this century, we may almost fix the date of the rise of monkish super- stition ; which was at least inflamed by the wri- tings of the famous Grecian fanatic ; who gave himself out for Dionysius the Areopagite, disciple of St. Paul. Those Solitaries, who existed in small numbers before, now increased. They maintained that com- munion with God was to be iought, by mortifying sense ; by withdrawing the mind from all external objects ; by macerating the body with hunger and labour, and by a holy sort of indolence. Thus solita- ry monks, and sequestered virgins, soon over-ran the whole Christian world. Many of this order of men, had long been known amongst the Christians, and had led silent and solitary lives in the deserts of Egypt ; but a person named Anthony, was the first who formed them into a regular body ; engaged them to live in society with each other, and prescrib- ed to them fixed rules for the direction of theic K r - 130 GENERAL HISTORY conduct ; which were universally received. From the east, this gloomy institution passed into the west ; and first into Italy, and its neighbouring Islands. St. Martin, the celebrated bishop of Tours, erected the first religious houses,* or monasteries, * Under the appellation of religious houses, there are establishments of different descriptions ; amongst which abbies, hold the first rank. An abbey is a society of religious people, having an abbot, or abbess, to preside over them. Some, abbies in this country were so considerable, that the abbots of them were called to parliament, and had seats and votes in the house of Lords. A priory, was a society of religious persons, the chief of which was termed a prjor, or prioress, and of these there were two sorts, first, where the prior was governor, as full as any abbot, and was chosen by the convent ; as were the cathedral priors, and most of them of the order of Saint Austin: secondly, where the priory was a cell, subordinate to some great abbey, and their prior was placed and displaced at the will of the abbot : but there was a considerable difference between these cells. Some were altogether subject to their re- spective abbeys, who sent them such officers and Monks as they pleased, and took their revenues in the common stock of the abbies. Others consisted of a stated num- ber of Monks who had a Prior sent them from the abbey, and paid a yearly pension, as an acknowledgment of their subjection, but acted in other matters as an inde- pendent body, and had the rest of their revenues for their own use. These priories or cells were always of the same order with the abbies on which they depended ; though sometimes of a different sex : it being usual, after the conquest, for the great abbies to build nunneries on their manors, which should be priories to them, and subject to their visitation. Some of these priories were changed into abbies, as was the case of Whitby. Priories alien, were cells to foreign monasteries ; for when manors or tithes were given to foreign monasteries, the monks built in England convenient houses, for the reception of a small convent, and sent over such a number as they thought proper j constituting priors over them. OP MONASTERIES, &C. 131 in Gaul. His funeral is said to have been attended by two thousand monks. From Gaul, this nionas- Preceptories, were manors, or estates, of Knights Templars ; where erecting charches f<;r the seivice of God, and convenient houses, they placed someof their fra- ternity under the government of one of those more eminent Templars, who had been, by the grard master, created 'preceptores templi,' to take care of the lands and rents in th* place and neighbourhood ; and so were only cells to the principal house in London. Commanderies, were the same amongst the Knights hospitallers, as preceptories were amongst the Templars; Socisties of these knights were placed upon some of their estates in the country, under the government of a com- mander, who was allowed proper maintenance put of the revenues under their care; and accounted for the rest to the grand prior at London., Hospitals, were houses for the relief of the poor and impotent, in which were generally two or three religious ; one to be master, or prior, and one or two to be chaplains aad confessors. They observed the rules of St. Austin, and were incorporated by royal patents, and were made capable of gifts and grants iu succession. Friaries, were houses erected for the habitation of Friars. They were Tory seldom endowed, the Friars being by their profession, mendicants, and to have no property: yet many of them were large and stately buildings, and had noble churches, in which many great persons chose to be buried. Hermitages, were religious cells, erected in private and solitary places, for single persons or communities. They were endowed, and sometimes annexed to large religious houses. The hermits of cells not endowed, are spoken of as common beggars. Chantries, were endowments of lands and other revenues, for one or more priests to say daily mass, for the souls of the founder, and his relations and benefactors; sometimes at a particular altar, and often in little chapels, added to the cathedral and parochial churches, for that purpose. Free Chapels, were places of religious worship, exempt from all jurisdiction of the ordinary, except that the : r X, 132 GENERAL HISTORY ' ' tic discipline extended gradually its progress through the other provinces and countries of Europe, and reached even to Britain. incumbents were generally instituted by the bishop, ana elected by the arch-deacon of the place. Most of these chapels were built upon the manors and ancient demes- nes of the crown, whilst in the King's hands, for the use of himself and family, when he came to reside there: and when the crown parted with those estates, the chapels went along with them, and retained their first freedom. Some lands had chapels on the manors, which do not appear to have been ancient demesnes of the crown ; but ere thought to have been built and privileged by grant from the crown. In every abbey, the chief officer was the abbot, or ab- bess, who presided in great pomp, and was generally called lord abbot, or lady abbess, and had kitchens and apartments, different from the common ones of the society. Jn every priory the chief officer was the prior, or jprioress, and was sometimes called lord prior, or lady prioress. Next under the abbot, in every abbey, was the prior ; \vho in the abbot's absence had the chief care of the house ; and under him was the sub-prior, and in great abbies, to the fifth prior. * There were-six greater officers in a monastery. One was master of the fabric, and took caie of the building. Another had the oversight of the alms-house. Another took care of the pittances, which were allowed upon particular occasions, over and above the common provi- sions. A fourth was the sexton, whose business it was to take care of the books, vestments, &c., belonging to the church ; provide wine for the sacrament, and see to the burying of the dead. A fifth had the care of the dormitory, and provided beds, c., for the monks. A sixth was to procure provisions for the monks, and all strangers resorting to the convent. Besides these, there were also other officers. There were the hostilarius, whose business it was to see strangers well entertained, and to provide firing, napkins, towels, and such like necessaries as were wanting for their ao commodatiou. OF MONASTERIES, &C. 133 The monastic institution of which we have been speaking, was first divided into two distinct orders ; Theinfirmarius who was to take care of the infirma- ry, and of the sick monks who were carried thither, and was to provide for them while living, and wash and pre- pare their bodies when dead. He likewise shaved all the monks belonging to the convent. The refectionarins, who looked after the hall, provided table-cloths, napkins, towels, dishes, plates, spoons, and all other necessaries for it ; even servants to wait and tend there. He had likewise the keeping of the cups, salts, ewers, and all the silver utensils whatsoever, be- longing to the house, except the church plate. A bursar, who received all the common rents and rev- enues of the monasteries, and paid all the common expences ; these made up their accounts every year, on the day after Michaelmas day. The chaunter, who had the care of the choir service, and not only presided over the singing men, organist, and choristers ; but provided books for them, paid them their salaries, and repaired the organs. He had also the custody of the seal, and kept the chapterbook ; and pro- vided parchment and iuk, for the writers or scriptores: also colours for the limners of books, for the library. Scriptores, or writers, in every great abbey, had a large room, called the scriptorium ; where the monks made it their sole business to transcribe books for the use of the library. Sometimes, indeed, they wrote the ledger- book of the house, and the books used in divine service ; but they generally Avere employed in transcribing the works of the fathers, classic histories, &c .: and so zea- lous were they for this work, that they often got lands given, and churches appropriated for carrying it on. The loquinarius, the nature of whose office is not very clear ; but amongst the monks of Hales, who had pen- sions, John Sylvester, kychyner, is placed before Thomas Farr, cellarer. There were other officers, besides the fore-named. There were the guardinarius, and portarius; who seem to have been above common janitors j because some of them were advanced to be abbots. 131: GENERAL HISfORY of which the one received the denomination of Crenobites, and the other that of Eremites. The former lived in a fixed habitation, and made up one large community, under a chief whom they called father, or abbot : the latter drew out wretched lives in perfect solitude, and were scattered here and there, in caves, in desert?, and in the hollows of rocks ; sheltered from the wild beasts, only, by the cover of a miserable cottage; in which each one lived sequestered from the rest of his species. These different orders were hitherto composed of the laity, and were subject to the jurisdiction and inspection of the bishops ; but many of them now became adopted amongst the clergy ; and that even by the command of the emperors. The fame of monastic piety and sanctity, became PO universal, that bishops were frequently chosen out of them. No sooner had Constantine abolished the superstition of his ancestors, than magnificent churches Mere every where erected. Some were built over the tombs of martyrs, and were frequent- ed only at stated times ; whilst others were set apart ibr the ordinary assemblies of Christians in divine worship; and at this time it was looked upon as an essential part of religion, to have in every country a multitude of churches : and here we must look for the origin of what is called right of patron- age ; which MBS introduced with no other view, than to encourage the opulent to erect a great num- In nunneries, there was a correspondence of all these offices and officers. BURTON'S MONASTICOW. OF MONASTERIES, &C. 135 bt>r of churches, by giving them the privilege of appointing the ministers who were to officiate in them. In making some further observations on monastic institutions, we may observe, that in consequence of the persecutions which attended the first stages of the gospel, some Christians were forced to retire from the world, and live in deserts and unfrequent- ed places, in hopes of finding that comfort in those situations, which was denied them amongst men. This being the case with some very extraordina- ry persons, their example gave s,o much reputation to retirement, that the practice continued, when the reason of its commencement ceased. The monastic orders were at first under the im- mediate jurisdiction of bishops, from which they were exempted by the Roman pontiff, about the end of the seventh century ; and the monks in return devoted themselves wholly to advance the interest, and to maintain the dignity of the bishop of Rome. This immunity which they obtained, was a fruitful source of licentiousness and disorder, and occasioned the greatest part of the vices, with which they were afterwards so justly charged. But not- withstanding all this, they were respected with the highest veneration. Several kings and emperors called them to their courts, and employed them in civil affairs of the greatest moment. In the eleventh century, they were exempted by the Popes, from the authority of sovereigns ; and new orders of monks were continually established ; insomuch that in the council of Lateran, held in 1S6 GENERAL HISTORY 1215, a decree was passed, by advice oflnnocent III., to prevent any new monastic institutions ; and several were suppressed. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, it appears from the testimonies of the best writers, that the monks were indolent, illiterate, profligate, and li- centious ; whose views in life were confined to opulence, idleness, and pleasure. The Reformation, however, had manifest influence in restraining their excesses, and making them more circumspect in their external conduct. The different orders of the religious, are distin- guished by the colour of their habits; which were white, black, grey, &c. Some of the monks were called monks of the chair, others professed monks, and others lay monks ; which last were destined for the service of the con- vent, and had neither clericate nor literature. To these were added uncloistered monks, who, not- withstanding resided in the house ; but are so called, in opposition to such monks as had benefi- ces depending on the monasteries to which they belonged. As has been before stated, the monks were first laymen, and were only distinguished from the rest of the people by a peculiar habit, and extraordinary devotion : but pope Syriceus called them to the clericate; there being a scarcity of priests : since which time the priesthood has been usually united to the monastical profession. In this country, religious houses were very nu- merous : they were built at different times ; and OF MONASTERIES, &C. 137 many of them after the conquest ; by descendants of those barons, who came over with William the Conqueror, such us llievalx, Byland, Kirkham, and others. Many of these religious houses had churches be- longing to them, which were given to them by their founders, and others, in right of patronage. These abbies and priories therefore, were not interwoven with the established church, but belong- ed to their respective fraternities ; they and their revenues, were the property of the orders to which they belonged. They had their own churches, in. which they themselves, officiated ; they lived con- tiguous to them, and were governed only by the laws of their own establishment ; so that when they were suppressed, it made no difference in the nation- al ecclesiastical establishment, as the public chur- ches belonged to the state, and were still places of public worship, though the King had become head of the church, instead of the Pope. These religi- ous houses were a species of private property, which at the time of the dissolution, was forfeited to the crown. The begining of the ruin of the monks was King Henry's desire to divorce his wife, which the Pope refused to do, the monks sided with him, and in so doing, hastened their own overthrow. The marriage of the King with Catherine, was by his friends, declared invalid. The Pope was no sooner informed of these proceedings, than he pass- ed a sentence, declaring Catherine to be the King's lawful wife, requesting him to take her again ; and 138 GENERAL HISTORY 1 denounced his censures against him in case of re- fusal. Henry knowing that his subjects were entirely at bis command, resolved to separate totally from the church of Rome : in 1534, he was declared head of the church by the parliament ; the authority of the Pope was abolished ; all tributes, formerly paid to the holy see were declared illegal, and th King was intrusted with the collation to all ecclesi- astical benefices. The nation came into the King's measures with joy, and took an oath called the oath of supremacy. As the monks had all along shown the greatest resistance to the King's ecclesiastical character, he resolved at once to deprive them of t he power of injuring him ; he accordingly empow- ered Cromwell, secretary of state^to send commis- sioners into the several counties of England, to inspect the monasteries, and to report with rigour- ous exactness, the conduct of such as vveve found in them. The commission was undertaken by Layton, London, Price, Gage, Petre, and Belasis ; who are said to have discovered great disorders in many of the religious houses : whole convents of women abandoned to all manner of lewd ness ; and friars accomplices in their crimes : pious frauds were every where committed, to increase the devotion and liberality of the people ; and cruel and invete- rate factions existed amongst them. The king, therefore, in 1536, suppressed the lesser monaste- ries, amounting to 376 : their revenues, computed at 32,000 a year, were confiscated to the king j OP MONASTERIES, &C. 139 besides their plate and other goods, computed at 100,000 more ; and in 1538, the greater monas- teries were suppressed. The better to reconcile the people to this great innovation, accounts Mere published of the de- testable lives which the friars lived in their convents ; the relics, also, and other remains of superstitious veneration, were now brought forth) and became objects of derision to the reformers. The king, in the whole, suppressed 645 monasteries ; of which 28 had abbots who held scats in parliament : with SO colleges, 2374 chantries and free chapels, and 1 10 hospitals. The whole revenue of those establishments amounted to 161,100. Such was the conduct of Henry ; such were the disasters which befel the monks, & c an ^ which decided their fate in this kingdom* Whatever good resulted from the dissolution of those religious houses, no ingenuous person can justify the measures which the king adopted to ac- complish his purposes, in pulling down houses, and taking property from their owners. Such however was the fact, and the priory at Keldholme, which ia the next article in this volume, was one of those religious houses which the merciless vengeaiiQe o the times reduced 10 ruins. KILDENHOLM,KELDON, KELDEHOLM, OR KELDHOtM, In the parish of Kirkny-Moorside, and in the wap- entake of Ry dale, is about a mile east of the S 2 140 KELDHOLM PRIORI^ on (he river Dove. It is a romantic situation, through which the road passes to Malton and Scar- borough, The spinning of flax and tow i carried on here, by Mr. Caleb Fletcher, who has a neat dwelling house, and a convenient factory surmount- ed with a cupola, and displaying in every part neatness and attention. Extracts from Burton's Monasticon, and the Re- cords in the Augmentation Office, London. Robert de Stuteville in the time of Henry I. foun- ded a cistercian nunnery here, and dedicated it to the blessed virgin. From Robert the founder, the patronage descended to the family of the Wakes, .Lords of Lyddel. A charter of king John, made in the second year of his reign, A. D. 1201, grants and confirms to the nuns of St. Mary, serving God at Keldeholm, by gift of Robert de Stuteville, and by grant of "William de Stuteville his heir, the place itself of Keldeholm, with all the cultivated land towards the north, by the divisions determined in the deeds and an inclosnre for their vegetables, and the mill, with the soc and multure of Kirkeby, with all the land towards the south, and the meadow, as far as the divisions in the same deeds ; with pasture in the ivood of Ravenwick. About the time of the dissolution, here were a prioress and eight nuns ; at that time the revenues of this priory, pursuant to statute of 27 Henry VI1J., were very small and inconsiderable ; being no more per annum, than jg29. Qs. Itf. KELDHOLM PRIOIIY. 141 The possessions of (his nunnery or priory, remain- ed so short a time in the hands of the crown, that the minister or receiver had no opportunity of re- turning his annual account of receipt and expendi- ture. In 2 Henry IV, Edmund de Holland, Earl of Kent, died, seized of two parts of the advowson of this priory, then valued at 2. per annum ; which had been given by Edward III. to Edmund, Earl of Kent, his uncle. The scite of the priory was granted by letters patent, in the 30 Henry VIII., to Ralph, Earl of Westmoreland ; whose ancestors were then said to be founders. An alphabetical list of the Places granted to this Priory : Bergh, or Borugh, Magna et parva. The nuns had lands here, according to Kirby's inquest. Btregby. Thurstan de Beregby gave six ox* gangs of land here. Bodlum, or Beadlam. Robert de Surdeval gave two tofts here. Brandeshal, now Bransdale, Robert de Stute- ville, and William de Stuteville, gave pasture in this place. Crofton. Ernald de Benefeld gave one croft here, nigh the fountain towards the south, with one croft towards the north, near the river of HamclifF. Cropton. Ernald de Benefield gave half a caru- cate, viz. four oxgangs of land. . Hugh del Tuit gave the mill here, 142 KELDHOLM PRIORY/ with the culture of land, called Colesisland ; with two acres in Selliflat. E'cennit. William de Stuteville gave all the land of Evennit, as specified by the boundaries. Fadmore. Robert de Maltby, and Emma his wife ; and Jordan de Bolteby and Sibilla his wife, gave two oxgangs of land here ; which William de Stuteville confirmed. Farcndale, Farndale. Robert and William de Stuteville gave materials for buildings, fencings, and fuel, out of this place. Gillingmore-MHL Nicholas de Stuteville gave an annuity of four marks out of this mill. Jlabbeton, magna and parva. William, sen of William, son of Nicholas de Habbeton, gave ten oxgangs, in the field of Habbeton parva, with tofts, crofts, and all the arable land he had in Benedillat ; and with the common of pasture, in the place called Milne-green, near the bridge ofNewsom ; also all the arable land in Hornse and Goldilandes, with common of pasture in Hornse, and common pasture through the moor of Habbeton magna, for SOOsheep ; and with common pasture for all kinds of cattle, through the manor of Habbeton parva ; now Hab- ton. He also granted them liberty to dig turf on the moor of Habbeton magna; and confirmed all that had been given to the nuns by his ancestors, in these places. Ede, son of Askill, gave one carucate of land here. William, son of Ingald, of little Habbeton, gave two oxgangs in this place, with a toft. Jlorseford. See the agreement below. KEtDHOLM FRIORY. 143 Ingleby. Ralph Paen and Columba, his wife, fcnd William his son and heir, gave twenty-five acres of land, with pasture thereto belonging', in this place ; and the said William also gave seven acres, one perch and a half, of his demesnes, with two carucates here, and twenty -eight acres in off- erings. William, son of Ranulph, and Hawise, his wife, gave one acre of land here. Alexander^ son of Columba de Engleby, before or about 1199, 1 of King John, with the consent of his heirs, gave to the nuns of Duna, two carucates of land here ; and also confirmed sixty-three acres of arable ground, with all other grants of his ancestors. Robert de Stuleville gave two carucates here. Keldholm. Robert de Stuteville gave this place, with all the cultivated land towards the north, as mentioned in the charters. He also gave the mill, with the soc* and multuret of Kirkeby, with all the land towards the south, and the meadow, according to the boundaries, with pasture in the wood of Ra- * The word soc, in law, is an ancient privilege, which a lord of a manor claims in his court, of holding plea in causes of debate arising from his tenants and vassals ; and of imposing and levying fines and amercements (ouch- ing the same. The word is Saxon, and literally signifies cause, contest, &c. When the soc was given, the donor gave them his right relating to that property ; he gave it to them with all the privileges belonging to it : it was free property. f Multure is a certain stipulated quantity of meal, given as payment to the proprietor or tacksman of a mill, for grinding corn ; and all corn ground on farms that led to the mill, was obliged to pay multure, whether it be ground at that mill , or elsewhere. 144: KELDHOLM PRIORY. venwick ; all which, with the following, were con- firmed to them by King John, in Feb., in the second year of his reign, A. D. 1201. Kirkeby. See the agreement below. Nunnington. Robert de Malteby, and Emma his wife, gave two oxgangs of land here. Jordan de Bolteby, and Sibilla his wife, gave two oxgangs* in this place. Rogeberg.-^ -Robert de Stuteville gave all hi* land here. Thorenton-n/till. William de Visci gave one mark of silver per annum, out of his mill, in this place. Tranetfarn. Norman de Redman gave the land of Tranethern. Adam Fitz-Peter confirmed the convention made between the nuns of this place, and the monks of Kirkstall, of one carucatet of land in Horseford, and two carucates and a mill in Kirkeby. * An oxgang is 15 acres, t 120 acrci. 13 tO ^1 If $ | 7 ft- -J *- \ v v* c^ [Time of occu Confirmal G^ 5- 3. H E Cn 4-. - *. COCO* Co o c; Ci o *" o 4^ ^3 ** N os ^ go O 5 ES<0 00^0,0,,,^^- ^r ^ S- ^ OT 55 B B t != 'i' l rt"o' ^"" > l 3 o ? y B i" i i i i i i i i i CL o n 1^11111111* 03 I CLi fplllllllll sr gas gsg n o ? S 5 i i jt- jr- S" O o /!^> C7 1 O ^^ 1 1! " .s H r r> st ff D- cr n 6 S S Gfl After the dissolution, the above Elizabeth Lyon a pension of 5 per annum ; and John Porter, i 146 KELDHOLM PRIORY. the Chaplain, had one of 4 per annum ; both of which they enjoyed in A. D, 1553. Moniales de Dunn, or Duva, occur in many char- ters in Dodsworth's MSS. ; so called from the river Duna, or Duva, now Dove, on which it was situated. As appears in the quo warranto roll of Edward ]., where these nuns pleaded a grant from king Henry, son to the Conqueror ; and Stephen de Meinill is witness to a deed of Sibill, prioress of this house, as MSS. of Dodesworth ; and Galfred Magister Moni- alum de Duna is one of the witnesses to the agree- ment about Hode, between the canons of Newburgh and Adam Fossard. Keldholm Priory, which signifies Springhill Prio- ry, was so called from its being near Keld-head, or Spring-head, and situated on a small eminence. The river Dove, which sinks in its channel a little below Yawdwath, rises, or rather flows from the limestone which forms the bank on the east of the beck, about a quarter of a mile from the site of the priory, in a constant and often rapid current ; so a to drive the machinery of Mr. Fletcher's factory. The priory stood principally on the ground which is now the approach to his house ; into which you enter not far from Keldholm bridge. A few years since, as some workmen were levelling the ground, they dug up several stone coffins, tesselated pave- ment, and fragments of pillars. Mr. Fletcher did not preserve any of the pavement ; but two or three fragments of the pillars are preserved in the north wall of his garden ; which is spacious and laid out with taste. The river Dove runs at the southern KELDHOLM PRIORY. 147 < extremity of it, beyond which is seen picturesque and interesting scenery. Christopher Robinson, Esq. to whom Ravenwick wood, and a great proportion, of the land about Keldholm belongs, and who, with Mr. Fletcher, assisted me in the history of the prio- ry, has in his possession, eight pieces of brass, call- ed celts ; which are said to have been dug from the site of it. A small bell, also, and a small brass hammer were found with them. The celt is an im- plement, the use of which antiquaries are not agreed upon. Some have thought it was used by the Dru- id priests, to cut the sacred branch of the mislctoo used in their religious ceremonies. Others suppose they were Roman chissels, employed in cutting and polishing stone. Others think, and with more pro- bability, they were warlike weapons, used by our remote ancestors, or by the Romans. Those in the possession of Mr. Robinson, are in the shape of wedges, each one hav ing a socket at one end, and a loop on one side. Mr. Graves, in his History of Cleveland, p. 6, giving an account of the ancient Britons, says they sometimes carried short spears, pointed with brass, each one having a bell fastened to its so- ket ; the harsh sound of which on their ad- vance to battle, served to terrify and throw their enemy's cavalry into confusion. Perhaps by these pieces of brass he means celts. Many celts have been iound in the vicinity of Kirkby-Moorside, e- specially near the Roman camps. This neighbour- hood was long the scene of conflict between the Brigantes, the most warlike of the Britons, and the Roman armies. The country is intersected 'by Tt. RELDHOlM Roman military ways, and interspersed with Roman Camps. On the east side of Keldholm bridge is a house, 6f the cottage size, which was anciently called Keldhblm-hall. It is now the property of Mr. Fletcher, who has a will, dated in the reign of William III. 16&5, in which William Hill, mariner, 6f Whitby, gave to his four daughters that dwellihg- fiouse, known by the name of Keldholm -hall ; toge- *her with all tythes belonging to Keldholm Priory This house, though small, hris been finished ni rather a superior style* It is has at present afire place, cased with dutch tiles ; which it is said were jput there in the latter part of the eighteenth cen iury, by a gentleman, who intended it for the residence of a favourite female. K1RKDALE. The parish of Kirkdale is situated in the wapen- take of Hvdalo, and includes the townships of "Welburnj Wombleton, Nawton, and Skiplam. The population of those villages is small ; but the land Dear them is extremely good, and is beautified with tyood. Through the village of Nawton, the resi- dence of Thomas Whytehead, Esq., the road passes to Helmsley, Thirsk, Richmond, &ct Welburn, which signifies Well-spring, or Well- fetream, is situated in the wapentake of Rydale, ancl in the parish of Kirkdale* about one mile and a half & W. of Kirk bj-Mooi side. The village i* WELBtfRW. 140 mall, containing a population of only ISO persons. Kirkdale Church lies somewhat less than a mile on the north of it. Upon its eastern side is Wel- burn-hall, late the residence of the Robinsons, and still the property of their representatives. The last occupier of that name, the Rev. John Robinson, was lineally descended from Sir James Strangways ; who, in the time of Henry VI., married Margaret, the elder of the two co-heiresses of the last Lord D'Arcy Meinill. The younger married Sir John Conyers, ancestor of the present Duke of Leeds t and between the issue of the two sisters, it is ap- prehended that ancient barony remains still in abeyance. Tne name of Strangways was exchanged for that of Robinson, in consequence of an inter- marriage of the heiress with Luke Robinson, Esq. of Risebrough, M. p. for Scarborough. The estate belongs at present to the Rev. Arthur Cay ley, rec- tor of Norman by ; the Rev. Francis Wrangham, F. R. S. Prebendary of Ampleford, and Archdeacon of Cleveland ; and Thomas Smith, Esq, M. D. ; in right of their respective wives, nieces and co-heir- esses of the late Rev. J. Robinson ; whose sister^ Elizabeth, married the Rev. Digby Cayley, brother f Sir Thomas Cayley, Bart., of Brompton. The mansion appears to have been built at diff- erent times, from the variety of styles of architecture which it displays. In the eastern window oil a spa- cious apartment called the billiard-room, which is entered through the black gallery, once hung round With family pictures, is preserved an emblazoning * the Strangways', Robinsons', Bowes', &c., arras, WELBURN, on glass. The village and grounds are well shel- tered by picturesque wood. In the garden stands a temple, apparently coeval with the oldest part of the main fabric; which still exhibits on its ceiling an angelic figure, having near it this inscription : Ad aeliiera virtus ; or, Virtue leads to heaven ; and on the south wall of the temple is Tandem hoc didici Animos sapientioret fieri quiete ; CLAUD. er, ( This has at length taught me that minds be- come wiser by repose.' An extraordinary speci- men of the vegetable kingdom is presented in the garden, near the house, by an ancient Cedar tree ; the trunk of which is nearly fifteen feet in circum- ference, while its branches extend from east to west seventy-two feet, and sixty-six feet from north to south. The large and curious collection of old books, which belonged to the hall, now forms part of the valuable library of the Rev. Archdeacon Wrangham. On the east side of the hall, tower a few remark- ably fine beech-trees ; and from the Hodge-beck, to the high road extending from east to \*est, is a long avenue of majestic oaks, elms, and ashes. At its western termination is a neat stone bridge, call- ed Tilehouse-bridge ; probably in consequence of the hall near it being at that time the only tiled house in the vicinity. The road from Tilehouse- bridge to Kirkby-Moorside is rendered extremely pleasant by the delightful scenery, especially on the KIRKDALE CHURCH* right hand. The southern view is terminated by an horizon covered with tufted trees; and on ther east the eye catches the distant wolds. Is about one mile and a quarter west of Kirkby- Moorside, in a retired situation, surrounded by hanging woods ; which present in the vernal, sum- mer, and autumnal seasons, appearances of the most grateful description. The Church is old, having been built prior to the conquest, and on the site of one then in ruins; which shews this to have been: from a very early date the scene of Christian devo- tion. The fabric itself has nothing particularly interesting in it ; excepting two saxon arches, one over the front door, facing the south, and the other at the west end of the church, over a door which is now walled up. The architecture of the building is mixed, in consequence of its having been repaired at different times. The patronage of the church, prior to the disso- lution, belonged to the abbey of Newburgh ; and after having passed into the hands of a variety of patrons, was bestowed by Henry Earl of Danby, upon the University of Oxford ; about the year 1632. The present incumbent is the Rev. Geo. Dixon. The church is celebrated for a Saxon Inscription which it bears ; exhibiting in a singularly perfect manner, the name of its founder, and the date of its erection. It is placed over the southern door, 152 KIRKDALE CHXJR6H, and protected by an antique porch ; which n^ doubt greatly facilitated its preservation. The stone is 7 ft. 5 in. long, and I ft. 10 in. hisrh, which is divided into three parts of unequal dimen- sions. The first and third compartments contain the largest inscription, which is the memorial of the church, and the person by whom it was erected. The middle one has been a dial, over which, and in the semicircle which encloses the radii, or hour lines, which divide it into eight equal parts, is the title of the dial ; and the third inscription is a single line below the dial, or semicircle, recording the name of the maker, and the minister who assisted him. The first inscription, which occupies the first and third divisions, reduced to modern charac- ters, and written in full, is as follows : ORM GAMAL SUNA, BOHTE SANCTUS GREGOR1US MIN STER, THONNE HI T WES ML TOBRO CAN, AND TO FALAN AND HE HIT LET MACAN NEVVAN FROM GRUNDE, CHR1STE AND SANCTUS GRE- GORIUS, IN EADWARD DAGUM SYNING ; IN TOST1 DAGUM EORL. LITERAL TRANSLATION, Orm, the sonofGamal, bought St. Gregory'* Church, when it was all broken down and fallen; and he caused it to be mace new from the ground ; j)JmB% tJU'iliffiB s* H O s e S" X ^ KIRKDALE CMURClf. 153 to Christ and St. Gregory, in the days of Edward the King, in the days of Tosti, the Earl. The second part reads thus : THIS IS DJGGES SOL MERCA ^ETILCUMTIDE, signifying this is a sun-dial for every hour ; or this is the day's sun mark. The third part of the inscription is, AND HAWARTH ME WROHTE AND BRAND PRESBYTER. which is, And Hawarth made me, and Brand the minister. From the first part of the inscription, we learn, that the church was dedicated to St. Gregory,* * The Romans having left Biitain in thebeginning of the fifth century, the inhabitants were soon reduced to deplorable circumstances, from their exposure to the at- tacks of the northern powers. The Picts and Scots so harrassed them, that they resolved to call in the Saxons to their assistance ; who coming, routed the Picts, and gained a complete victory over them. After this, 5000 more Saxons came over, with ther wives and children; \vho were followed by others ; until they formed the reso- lution of falling upon the Britons, and taking their coun- try from them. They fell upon the British provinces, wasting them in a terrible manner ;--taking towns, de- molishing fortifications, burning churches and houses, and putting great numbers of the clergy and people to the sword : so as not to leave the least vestige of Christianity. Thus these wicked barbarians triumphed over every thing; which was sacred and dear to the people of this country; and things remained thus, as it respects religion, till Ethelbert had in A D. 560, succeeded his fat her, Krmenric, in the kingdom of Kent; who had mairied, in his father's life-time, Berthi, the only daughter of Caribert, king off Paris, who was a Christian, and well instructed in her religion j which by the articles of marriage she bad free 354 KIRKDALE CHURCH. who first sent the gospel to the Saxons; and from its being: built in the days of Tosti, the erection of it must have happened between the year 105(5 and 1065. For Tosti, the fourth son of Godwiu, Earl of Kent, and brother to King Harold, was created Earl of Northumberland, by Edward the Confessor, in 1056: but Tosti, being: of an ambitious and tur- bulent disposition, was expelled the kingdom in 1065, and was slain the year following' at Stamford- bridge, near York, in his attempt to recover his for- mer power. Dugdale, Baron, vol. 1. p. 313. The walls of the chancel are embossed with ele- gant monuments, principally recording the deaths and interments of various branches of the Ro- liberty to exercise ; and for that purpose was attended by a venerable priest named Liudhard, who officiated con- stantly in a church dedicated to St. Martin, built in. the time of the Britons, and lying a little way without the walls of Canterbury. The exemplary life of this prelate, and the discourses he had with some of the prin- cipal men of the kingdom, disposed many to embrace Christianity, the progress of which was facilitated by the pious and prudent conduct of the queen. Gregory the great, to whom this church is dedicated, hearing of the general disposition of the English to receive the Christian, religion sent Augustine, with a number of devout monks, from his monastery at Rome, to preach the gospel in England ; who were supplied by Brunehaur, regent of Austrasia and Burgundy, with a number of French cler- gymen, who spake the English tongue ; so that about forty missionaries, in all, landed in the Isle of Thanet. Thither Ethelbert went to hear them preach in the open air ; not desiring to entera house, perhaps that he might not displease his heathen priests. These missionaries preached constantly after, in the church of St. Martin. Public opinion changed, heathenism began to dwindle^ and Christianity to gain ground; KlKKDALE CHURCH. 155 binson family and their ancestors. The oldest of these memorials, is an escutcheon emblazoned vviih arms of the Gibsons, &c., recording the interment of Lady Penelope Gibson, who died the second of January, 1650, under which is a monument to been removed in ^ 1658. . GulielmusLowcocke.Nunnmgton.May 31, 1678. 1678. . Rogerus Store, supposed to have been preferred. 1699.. Alex. Dunlop, A. M...Nunnington i June24, 1722. 1723. . George Fawcett, A. B... ..do.. . .March 23, 1736. 1736.. William Kay, A. M do. .....Oct. 7th, 1798. 1798.. John Kay. do Aug 9th, 1817. 1817.. William Kearey, rector, & T. A. Browne, curate. ^ospitals and School. On the left of the road loading to York, and at the extremity of the village green, stand the hospitals and charity school. They were founded in 1678, by Ranald Grahme. Esq.^ ^ 7 ^l the same munificent lord of the manor, who rebuilt the parish church in 1672, and were endowed by him with 20 per aim. " which he settled as a rev- enue for the schoolmaster and poor people of the aid Hospitalls." The hospitals were to contain three poor widows and three poor wjdowers, " or ** any other men or women, aged persons who have not been married," at the choice of the lord of NUNNINGTON. 177 " the said manor, or such as he shall impower." *' Which said persons were to be chosen out of the " townships of Nunnington, Stonegrave, and West tl Ness, and the farm at Muscoates, parcel of the te said manor of Nunnington." Out of the revenue of 20. they were to receive 40s. per annum, each ; and 40s. were also appropriated to the repair of the building. The remaining surplus of 6 per annum, forming a fund for the support of the schoolmaster. The inmates of the hospital receive from the agents of Sir R. B. Graham, an additional sum of 12s. per annum, each, and one chaldron of coals ; together with a coat or stuff gown every two years: but the original source, from which these increased allowances arise, is unknown. THE SCHOOL. The schoolmaster receives the salary of 6 left by Ranald Grahme, for the education of 6 scholars; and the interest of 40. left by David Bedford, of Nunnington, in 1730, for the education of 4 scholars. In addition to which, 20 other poor scholars are annually put to school by the voluntary bounty of Sir R. B. Graham; and 2 by Mr. Peacock, of Bond-street, London, making a total of 32 free scholars : who, as well as the inmates of the hospi- tal, are chosen from the townships of Nunnington, Stonegrave, and West Ness. The children are educated in reading, writing, and accounts, and are removed after they have continued tour years in the free school. This arrangement was found most Z 178 NtTNNINGTON. conducive to the interests of the parish at large, as the benefit thus extended to a greater number of the children of the poor. Those parents, whose chil- dren had already been in the charity school four years, being considered better able to afford the expense of continuing them at school a year or two longer, if necessary ; than those, M ho had never derived any benefit from the charity, were, to edu- cate their children entirely at their own expense. Easier Monday, which occurs only a short time previous to the period at which the poor put out their children to service, or are likely to obtain some employment for them, has been considered the most eligible season of the year, for their removal from the free school. Mr. George Marshall, the father of the promising young artist of that name, is the present master, and is allowed by the regu- lations of the school, to educate any other children of the village, or neighbourhood. The number of scholars of every description, is OR the average about sixty. These charities are at present under the consideration of the commissioners of charities, as it is supposed that the original endowment was not a money payment, but rental of land. Other Charities. There are also the following charitable bequests, viz. by Lady Widdrington 50 ; by David Bedford, ot Nunningten, in 1730| 20; Richard Marshall, of Nunnington, in 1782, 20 ; and William Anderson, ot Warter on the Wolds, in 1718, 10. ; making a total of 100, left to the poor of the township of Nunnington ; the interest of which is distributed at Christmas, by the NUNNINGTON. 179 clergyman and churchwarden, amongst the most ne- cessitous of the parishioners. This 100, and the 40 left by David Bedford to the school, are put out at interest by the churchwarden : the other charitable bequests are paid by Sir H. B, Graham, Bart. OLD HALL. At the east end of the village, near the bridge, stands the ancient hall, or mansion, once the seat of Lord Viscount Preston, at a more recent date of Lord Widdrington, and now the property of Sir R. B. Graham. From an old map and plan of the estate, taken in 1630, and now in the possession of Edward Cleaver, Esq., it appears that the estate at that time belong- ed to John Hollowaie, Esquire ;* and that the Nor- * Previous to John Hollowaie, Esq., the family of the Hickes's were lords of the manor of Nunnington, as appeals from the pedigrees of that family inserted in Thoresby's Ducatus Leodicensis, p. 136. John Hickes, who was lord of the manor of Nunniugton, about the year 1580, had two sons, Hickes, who went to reside at Ness, near Nunnington, and Uobert Hickes, who remained at Nunnington. Ness Branch of the MicJces. Hickes, of Ness, had t\vo sous. Ralph and Wil- liam. Ralph continued at Ness; -but William who married Elizabeth Key, of Topcliffe, took the large farm of Moorhouse, in the village of Newsham, in the parish of Kirby Wiske, near Thirsk ; where was born on, the 20 of June, 1640, the celebrated Dr George Hickes, dean of Worcester in 1679. He was a man of univer- sal learning, deeply read in the primitive fathers of the church, and particularly skilful in the old northern languages, uud antiquities. His chief works a,re,_Lin ISO NTJNNINGTON. cliffe family, ancestors of the late Duke of Roxburgh, then resided here, having obtained a lease of the hall and part of the estate, for 50 years. About the period of the departure, 1669, it came into the pos- session of Ranald Grahme, Esq., as it is* said, by purchase, from whom it passed to the noblemen above mentioned. The old mansion was in a great measure rebuilt, at least the whole line of the south front, by Lord Preston, as appears by the coronet and arms over the entrance, and is still of considerable extent and beauty, though much impaired by the hand of guarum Teterum Septentrional ium Thesaurus : folio ; and Grammatica Anglo-saxonica. The first ofthese is the author's masterpiece, and held in high estimation both In this country and onfthe continent. He died in 171 5 ? in the 75th year of his age. Zouch's Sketches. Biograph. Diet. Biog. Brit. His brother John Hickes, was of different religious principles. He became a presbyterian, and was deprived of the living of Stoke, in Devonshire, in 1662; for non- conformity. In 1685, he joined the Duke of Alon- inouth's army, for which he was executed. His son William was rector of Braughton Gifford, in Wiltshire, 1712. Vide Calamy. Palmer. Nunnington Branch of the Hickes. Robert Hickes, of Nunnington, born in 1586, and married in 1619, to Frances Wright, appears to have succeeded his father at Nunnington. He had several children, of whom Marmaduke Hickes, Esq., appears to have been the most distinguished ; having been made thrice mayor of Leeds in 1666, 1681, and 1694. H6 was thrice married and died in 1696, aged 77. A younger branch of the Hickes of Nunnington, inter- married with the ancient family of the Idels, who had a seat at Bulmer, near Castle Howard. KTJNNINGTON. J81 time, ami reduced from its original size by the remo- val of some of the older parts ot the building. The hall is built of stone, and presents a handsome south front, l%3 feet in length. The eastern and western, wings project about 8 feet from the centre of the building, giving a relief and finish to the whole, which would otherwise have a dull and uniform ap- pearance The breadth of the building appears to have been originally about 90 feet. There are three entrances, to each of which there is attached a sep- arate staircase. The entrance on the east is in a peculiar style of architecture, but simple, chaste and elegant. The principal entrance, which is on the south, opens into a spacious hall, 40 feet by 23, from whence leads an equ illy spacious staircase, ascend- ing by easy steps to the drawing room ; but wide enough to admit a carriage and with a massy bal- ustrade of oak ; which proclaims it a baronial resi- dence. The drawing room, which is immediately over the entrance hall, was formerly of similar ex- tent, 40 feet by 23, and had four windows looking from it upon the lawn ; one of which has been taken out, to form a bed-room. The other rooms of the house correspond in size w ith those already enume- rated, but which cannot all of them be particularly noticed. The tapestry of the bed-room in the east- ern wing, yet in tolerable preservation, is descrip- tive of forest and other rural scenery. In a garret of the western wing are the remains of splendid hangings of stamped leather, which was used former- ly instead of paper for rooms, and has no doubt formed at some time, a distinguished ornament of HUNNINGTOW. the ancient mansion. The style of grouping is sim- ilar to that observed on the Chinese paper, and the colouring equally brilliant. Some of the birds have been delicately finished, and the gold and colours, especially the scarlet, still remain fresh and vivid. At the extremity of the western wing, and on the ground floor, is a small room, the ceiling of which is divided into compartments, on which are embla- zoned the arms of the earls of Carlisle and viscounts Prestons, with their respective motto's affixed to each ; " Volo sed non valeo," and " Reason con- tents mee;" the former of the Howards, the latter of the Grahames. Adjoining the hall on the north, there was formerly an old family chapel, which was pulled down within the last few years. In modern times the hall at Nunnington, was for a period of more than 40 years the residence, and scene of the hospitality of the late Edward Cleaver, Esq. ; who acted as agent to the Graham family, and was himself a great practical and experimental farmer, holding at one time nearly 1,000 acres in his own hand. In 1813, it became the residence of Edward Darvall, Esq.; but is now in the occupation of Mr. Wm Harrison, as a larm house. Near the hospitals, and on the right of the York road leading from the bridge, stands Nunnington lodge, a modern built mansion; commanding a beautiful prospect in the direction of Helmsley and Kirkby-Moorside, and is the residence of Edward Cleaver, Jun. Esq. VIEWS, GROUNDS, &c. The York Road here passes through a beautiful NUNNINOTOW. 183 avenue of limes and sycamores, nearly half a mile in length, and extending from the bridge to the brow of the hill, well known by the appellation of Cauklass, a corruption of cauklays, or chalklands, the substratum of the hill consisting of limestone rock, covered with a thin layer of mould. This hill is celebrated both for the salubrity of its air, and the beautiful views which it commands. The surface, before the inclosure took place, was covered with a strong bent, a kind of short, coarse, elastic grass, similar to that on the training ground, Hambleton, and being a mile or more in extent was formerly used, occasionally, for a similar purpose; and at some distant period, as appears from the old map and plan, before-mentioned, was a race course; at the western extremity of which, near Stonegrave> was erected a stand. This course has run parallel to, if not in the very line of the present avenue of aged firs, which crowns the summit of the hill, and forms so conspicuous an object, in whatever directi- on it is approached. Cauklass is an oblong hill, running east and west, gradually sloping on the north, but on the south, steep and abrupt; and being situated between two lovely vales, commands one of the most beau- tiful and extensive prospects in the neighbourhood ; and though in the immediate vicinity of the grounds at Castle-Howard, Gilling, and Duncombe Park, need not shrink from a comparison of their beau- ties. From hence on a clear day, may be seen distinctly no less than 22 towns, villages, and ham- lets, and 16 churches. In the southern vale the 184 NUNNINGTON. churches of OswalJ kirk, Gilling, Stonegrave, Ho- vinghara, Terrington, Slingsby, Barton, Appleton, Old and New Malton; in the northern vale, Helmsley, Harurn, Nunnington, K i rkby- Moors i do, E Istone, Salton, and Pickering. In the distance are seen oti the north the Hambleton hills, the moors above Rosedale, and as far as Saltersgate; on the east, the Wolds, and in the direction of Scarbro', near to the sea ;- on the south, the high grounds above Hovinghara and Slingsby, intercept the view in the direction of Castle Howard and York. These views are noticed in the 3d Canto of Mrs. Duulop's poem, entitled Edmund of Rye- dale ; the scene being laid at South Holme and Ness, in the adjoining parish. The family of the Cray thorns, during their resi- dence at Ness, had a seat erected under an aged thorn, at the eastern extiemity of this delightful hill. Miscellanea. When the census was taken in 1821, the population of Nunnington amounted to 418 ; out of which small number it is worthy of notice, that eight were above the age of 80, and ten above 70; making a total of 18 individuals in this small village above the age of 70. There were also twenty.fi ve others above 60. These remark- able instances of longevity mark the healthiness of its situation ; which arises both from the site of the village, and the dryness and firmness of the ground ; no stream, or spring, at the surface, occur- ring in the whole extent of the hill; the rain wa- ter sinking and passing off through the crevices and 185 fissures of the limestone rock, of which the hill consists. This soil appears peculiarly adapted to the growth of trees, for independent of the flourishing orchards already noticed, the plantation of ashes which shelter the hall on the north, have been long noted as some of the loftiest in the county; one of the trees in particular is remarkable for its stem, straight as an arrow, and rising above 50 feet with- out a single branch, and at the same time of extra- ordinary thickness thoughout. In the field at the east end of the hospital, is a venerable walnut tree, 4 yards 3 inches in circum- ference at the bole, and with several gigantic limbs scarcely inferior in magnitude to the parent stem. It is still in a very flourishing condition, and yields abundance of fruit. Its branches cover a circle of ground, whose diameter is 24 yards, and form a noble shade for the cattle of the adjoining pasture. Another beautiful avenue of limes and beech, skirt- ing the south bank of the Rye, extends from the hall to the mill: a mill which is memorable, as having occupied this site from times anterior to William the Conqueror, being mentioned in the an- cient record of that monarch, entitled * Domesday.' About five years ago, several silver coins, of dif- ferent sizes, of the reign of Edward II[., were turned up by the plough in a field below Nunning- ton, at a distance of a quarter of a mile N. vr. of the village. The largest of these coins, some of which are in the possession of Mr. George Peacock, are the groats of that reign, so called from their Aa 186 STONEGRAVE. size; an accurate description and engraving of which may be seen in the 1 vol. of Rapin's History of England, at the conclusion of the reign of Edward 111. STONEGRAVE. *$TON EG RAVE, seven and a half miles 8. of Kirk* by-Moorside, ten and a half w of Malton, and eighteen N. of York. This parish consists of three townships, Stonegrave, east Newton, and west Ness and a part of the township of Nunnington ; and contains collectively a population of 397 inha- bitants, viz: Stonegrave 177, east Newton 72, west Ness 65 ; and the Stonegrave portion of the township of Nunnington 83. * Spelt in Domsday Stanegrif, Stainegrif, ud Stei ne- grif. Young in his history of Whitby observes, "besides the places which are designated by the appellation Bl dwelling, TUN town, TIIOUP village, B -KG burgh, or HAM home or residence : there are others in this district and its vicinity, which are distinguished by the term GRIP. Various meanings have been assigned to this term, which in the modern names is written GRAVE ; but that which is given by Mr. Marshall, in his rural econo- my of Yorkshire. Vol. 2 p. 323, appears to be the true one. He defines GRIFF to be " a dingle ; or narrow val- ley, with a rocky fissure-like chasm at the bottom." A town or village situated near a dingle of this descrip- tion, was therefore so named. Mulgrif, which in Domesday is simply called grif, is an instance in our immediate neighbourhood. Another grif, near Rievalx Abbey, stills retains its name ; and Stanegrif, now Stonegrave, is in the same quarter. Besides these, there was Walesgrif, now Walsgrave, or more frequently Falsgrave ; and Hildegrif, so named from Lady llildaj Dot far from llackness. Young's History of Whitby, p. 85. STONFGRAVE. 18? The church is a Rectory, value 23. 6s. 8d. in the King's books, of which the King is patron, the Rev. Theophilus Barnes, rector, and the Key. John Oxlee, curate. Village. Stonegrave is a small, but neat village, situated at the very foot of the steep brow of Cauk- lass, by which it is so completely hid in approach- ing it from the north, that the traveller stands on the very precipice that immediately overlooks it, before he is aware of its presence. Here sheltered from the northern blast, and, as it were nestling, and seeking protection under its friendly bank, may each inhabitant feelingly acknowledge the truth and beauty of those celebrated lines oi Gold* smith. Dear is that home to which his soul conforms, And dear that hill which shields him from the storms^ And as a child, when scaring sounds molest, Clings close and closer to his mother's breast, So the loud tempest, and the whirlwind's roar, But triad him to his native mountain more. GOLDSMITH'S TRAVELLER. The village festival, or Stonegrave feast, occurs on Trinity-sunday. CHURCH. The church, presents a handsome exterior; the interior possessing- as it does, two rows of fine Saxon arches, separating the north and south aisles from the body of it, and an antique screen, and pannels of carved oak in the chancel, H might, under a different and more uniform arrangement of Aag 188 STONEGRAVE. the sent?, be made one of the handsomest churches in the neighbourhood. In the chance] are several handsome monuments, illustrative of the descend- ants of that learned divine Thomas Comber, D. D., Dean of Durham, who was formerly rector of this parish, resided on his estate at east Newton, and was buried in this church. The first monument which meets fhe eye on en- lering the chancel, is that on the north wall to the memory of Thomas Comber, Esquire, of east New- ton, son of Dean Comber, and father of the Rev. Wm. Comber, the late vicar of Kirkby^Moorside, That on the opposite wall, as containing a well merited eulogium on the latter clergyman, will of course deserve, and find a place, in the history of a parish, so long the scene of his ministerial labours. *' Mark the perfect man, and behold the upright; for the end of that man is peace." Sacred to the memory Of the Rev. WILLIAM COMBER, M. A Vicar of Kirkby-Moorside, In the North-Riding of this County, second Son of Thomas Comber, of East Newton, Esq. He died March 24th, J810, In the 85th year of his age, Jlis mortal Remains are deposited In the north aisle of this Church* He was the beloved Pastor of his Flock For 54 years j STONEGRAVfi. and ably discharged the duties of an active Magistrate For above 40. In him The pious Christian, the sound Divine, and the faithful Steward of God's masteries, were happily united with The relative and social duties of a Tender Husband, a kind neighbour, and a benevolent Friend. A Pattern of Humility, Confiding in his Saviour's merits, and ever disclaiming his own; He rests in hopes of a joyful Resurrection.' By the side of this monument occurs one similar in size, and corresponding in its sculptural decora- tions, recording the death of his wife Dorothy Comber, who died three years previously. Near the altar rails, in the floor of the chancel, is a curious triangular shaped stone, with an in- scription running round the edge, but so defaced as to render it illegible* Jt is conjectured from its situation to relate to one of the former rectors of Stonegrave. Within the altar rails, and at the foot of the altar, is a slab of black marble, containing an elegant Latin inscription to the memory of Dean Comber; but as it w ill appear in the sketch of this great man's life given in the appendix, its insertion here is unnecessary, and to that sketch we must refer the reader.* It is impossible to enter the * On either side of him are deoosited the remains of 190 TONEGRATE. walls of this church, to pass its antique screen into the chancel, and to approach its altar, the place of interment of so great and good a man, without a feeling of veneration and awe; or to contemplate his tomb without mixed feelings of admiration and regret; admiration of his virtues, his wisdom, his learning, regret for so untimely and irrepara- ble a loss : and it is as impossible to retire from it, and passing down the aisle to rest the eye on that pulpit, where the accents of wisdom and of truth flowed from a tongue so eloquent and pious, without feeling the heart touched, exalted, and re- fined, expanding with the delightful anticipations of that future period, when the virtuous and the good shall meet to part no more. Cold must be that heart, which does not kindle at the thought, and dumb that tongue which exclaiiv: not in the lan- guage of inspiration, O death ! where is thy sting? O grave ! where is thy victory ? Behold here the Christian's triumph, the Christian's hope, the Christian's Death J Behold believe and live. " With awe, around these silent walks I tread ; " These are the lasting mansions of the dead : " The Dead !---inethinks a thousand tongues reply his pious mother, his affectionate wife Alice, and his son Thomas, a promising youfh, who was cut off at the early age of 18. Lovely in their lives, and undivided in their deaths : requiescant in pace ! A beautiful Latin in- scription of his own composition, is placed over the grave of his mother, who died in 1670, aged 52 ; and to the honour of his wife Alice, who died in 1720, aged 67 : it is recorded (hat " she made serving God, and doing good, the pleasure and business of her lifc." STONEGRAVE. I9i " These are the tombs of such as cannot die! u Crown'd with eternal fame, they sit sublime " And laugh at all the little strifes of time." The Library, Crabbe's Poems, vol, 2. The north aisle, which is destitute of seats, and raised by the vaults in it nearly to a level with the tops of the pews in the body of the church, an ar- rangement which completely destroys the unifor- mity of it, and rentiers the north aisle an unsightly appendage, appears to have been exclusively the burial place of the family of the Combers, arid their ancestors the de Thorntons, of east Newton. In this aisle occur many things worthy of notice, On, ascending the steps which lead to the raised plat- form composed of these vaults, we are first struck by the appearance of three stone figures on the left, in a recumbent posture. Two representing females, the third might be taken for a knight Templar, for the legs are crossed* and the hands raised, and resting on the breast in a supplicating posture : but the inscriptions placed on the flags by the side of them, appear, though in a singular situation, to have some reference to the figures, and not to indi- cate distinct tombs ; and from them we gather that the females are Elizabeth, the wife of Robert Thornton, Esq., who died in 1604, and Elizabeth her daughter, who died in 1668; and that the male * " Figures cross-legged, in which posture were buri **ed in that age, to remark en passant, those who had " taken the cross for a croisade to recover the holy land " from the Mahometans." Camden ; III; p. 493. 8TONEGRAVM. figure is one of the same family, thought not menti- oned aS a knight Templar. On the right of the steps lie the remains of two clergymen of the name of Denton, rectors of Stone- grave. The Rev. John Denton, who married one of the Thorntons, of east Newton, had been pre- sented to the living of Oswaldkirk, but was ejected in 1662, by the act of uniformity. Dean Comber, at last prevailed upon him to receive episcopal ordi- nation, and by his interest obtained for him the liv- ing of Stonegrave, and a prebend in the church of York, which he held until the year 1708, when a period was put to his truly pious and exemplary life, in the 83d year of his age. The inscription beneath, records the death and virtues of his son. the Rev. Robert Denton, who died in 1747 ; and " who by an exemplary patience, and singular cheer- fulness, withstood the attacks of bad health during much the greater past of his life, with a perfect re- signation to the divine will. Reader ! if it be al- lowed that his many virtues were chiefly those of an obscure life, it must be added that his few fail- ings were such alone as malice would describe." How apt, under similar circumstances, are we to despond ! How apt is a feeling of discontent and dissatisfaction to arise in the mind ! when apparently doomed to an obscure life, and buried in the deep seclusion of an unnoticed privacy, we consider our- selves lost to the world ; possessing talents which we imagine calculated for a wider field, and a more extended sphere of action ; but which are allowed to remain uncalled forth, unappreciated, neglect- STONEGttAVE." ed, forgotten. Here then, in the character of this virtuous divine, may we beholJ a noble pattern for our imitation ! Here we find not only an obscure life, but the attacks of ill health, and these continued throughout much the greater part of life, met witli an exemplary patience, perfect resignation, and singular cheerfulness . Such are the glorious tri- umphs of Christianity ; such is the true Christian philosopher ! He is the happy man, whose life e'en now Shows somewhat of that happier life to come ; Who, doomed to an obscure but tranquil state Is pleased with it, and were he free to choose Would make his fate his choice ; whom peace, the fri&i Of virtue, and whom virtue, fruit of faith Prepare for happiness ; bespeak him one Content indeed to sojourn while he must Below the skies, but having there his home. The world o'erlooks him in her busy search Of objects more illustrious in her view ; And occupied as earnestly as she, Though more sublimely, he o'erlooks the world.' She scorns his pleasures, for she knows them not; He seeks not hers, for he has proved them vain. He cannot skim the ground like summer birds^ Pursuing gilded flies ; and such he deems Her honours, her emoluments, her joys. Therefore in contemplation is his bliss, Whose power is such, that whom she lifts from earth She makes familiar with a heaven unseen, And shews him glories yet to be revealed. Not slothful he, tho* seeming unemployed, And censured oft as useless. Stillest stream* Bb 194r STONEfiRAVB. Oft water fairest meadows, and the bird That flutters least is longest on the wing. Ask him, indeed, what trophies he has raised, Or what achievements of immortal fame He purposes, and he shall answer none. His warfare is within. There unfatigued His fervent spirit labours. There he fights, And there obtains fresh triumphs o'er himself, And never withering wreaths, co ti pared with The laurels that a Caenar reaps are weeds. Perhaps the self-approving haughty world, That as she r neeps him with her whistling silks/ Scarce tate of tolerable preservation, the square tower or tur- ret, in which this learned divine is said to have pro- secuted his studies. A broad gravel walk formerljr led from the mansion to it, and the space between was tastefully laid out in shrubberies and pleasure grounds, not a vestige of which now remains. The Hall commands a fine view in the direction of Helmsley, and Kirkby-Moorside, and the lands are remarkable for their fertility. This beautiful es- tate was held from the time of Edward I., by the ancient family of the de Thorntons, from whom it passed by marriage into the hands of the Comb- ers, and was lately purchased by Sir George Womb- well, bart. Laysthorpe Hall, in the township of east New- ton, and the residence of Henry Dowker, Esq. stands in a commanding situation, overlooking the beauti- ful vale which extends from Gilling Castle and Oswaldkirk, to Malton and the Wolds. Laysthorpe is thus noticed in Domesday, amongst the lands of Hugh, the son of Baldric, in the north riding : '< Manor. In Lechestorp, (Laysthorpe) Orm had two carucates of land to be taxed. There is land to one plough. Hugh, son of Baldric has now ther* IIOVINGHAM. 199 ne plough, and two villanes with one plough, and five acres of meadow ; half a mile long, and half broad."* Vide Bawdwen's Translation, p. 200. West Ness. The only circumstance connected with this township worthy of notice, is, that it poss- esses a right of sending a proportion of scholars to the free school at Nunnington, as being originally a part of the estate of the lord of the manor of Nunnington. Vide account of Nunnington. HOVINGHAM. Hovingham,t 8 miles south of Kirkby-Moorside, * Sampson de Leysthorp gave an oxgan of land to Old Byland Abbey. William son of Roger de Carle- ton gave lands here, and Hugh de Wake, and Jone de Stuteville his wife confirmed all that the monks held of the fee of Thomas Fossard in Laysthorpc. By Kirby's inquest the abbot of Byland was lord of Laysthorpe. Burton's Monasticon, p. 333. f The following notice of Hovingham occurs in Domesday. " Land of Hugh the son of Baldric (north riding) <( manor. In Hovingham, Orm had eight carucates of " land to be taxed. There is land to four ploughs. Hugh, " son of Baldric, has now there two ploughs, and ten " villanes, having four ploughs. There is a church and *' a priest. " Berewicks. These belong to this manor: Wad " (Wath,) Fridetou, (Fryton,) Holtorp, (Howthorpe,) " Eschalchedeue, (Scackleton.) Hauuade, (Heworth,) M Coltune, (Coltou,) Grimeston, (Grimston,) Neutone, " (Newton,) Nesse, (Ness,) Holme, (Holme,) Esling- *' esbij (Slingsby,) Butruic, (Butterwick,) Aimundrebi, 200 HOVINGHAM. 9 west of Malton, and 18 north of York. This is a populous and extensive parish, comprising no less than 8 different townships, and containing collect- ively a population of 1 174 inhabitants; viz. Ho- vinghara 649 ; Airyholnae 33 ; Coulton 1 12 : Fry ton 62 ; Scackleton 171 ; South Holme 66 ; Wath 22 ; and east Ness 59. The Church is a perpetual cu- racy of trifling value, in the patronage of the earl of Carlisle, who is also lay rector ; the llev. Robert Freer perpetual curate, and the Rev. Thomas Alexander Browne, assistant curate. It obtained a few years ago an augmentation of 1,200. from, the parliamentary grant, which has increased its present value to 100. per annum. Village. Hovingham is a pretty country vil- Jage, composed of several streets, with many neat and well built houses, interspersed with forest trees, orchards, and garden grounds, and well watered by two streams, which traverse it in different direc- tions A charter was granted in the 36 Henry Til. for a market, fair, &c. and renewed in the 13th of Geo. II. 1739. The market to be held on the Thursday ; the Fairs to be held on the Hth, 15th, " (Amotherby,) Brostone, ( ) Neuhuse, (New- *' some ) To be taxed together thirty-two carucates of endance,---and to introduce habits of industry and economy amongst the lower orders of the community. The SUBSCRIPTIONS of the neighbouring gentry are not so much wanting, as their COUNTENANCE AND SUPPORT as honorary members ; - which would raise the cofidence of the poorer classes, and give them more correct notions on the subject. When they observed the great and the good, the wealthy and the wise, extending to them their fostering care, and their powerful support, convinced as they wouldthen be of the goodness of the institution, they would no longer hesitate, but hasten to enrol themselves amongst its members. And what sight more lovely, what object more transporting, than to see man extending to his fel- low man, the friendly hand of iuccour and support ; to see the great and noble, more illustrious by their con- descension, uniting with the poor and destitute the opulent landlord, with his less able tenant,---the man. of taste, the man of feeling, the man of learning, with the poor unlettered and . ignorant,---meu of every sect, of- denomination, or party, laying aside their mutual C c 202 II OV INCH AM. The Church is a large, handsome, well-built, and commodious structure, dedicated to All Saints. The south front was rebuilt in 1725, and the interior has recently undergone a thorough repair, having been repewed, underdrawn, and otherwise handsome- ly fitted up, at a considerable expence, and with a taste and arrangement, highly creditable to the li- dififerencss, and joining hand in hand in the god-like work of Christian charity and mutual good will. A be- nevolence, whose good effects cease not with the moment, but are destined to shed their blessings on successive generations, exciting and cherishing the kindlier fee* lings of our nature, the endearing charities of life; - promoting haWts of industry, economy and independ- ence ; and obviating the necessity of that last and most painful expedient the necessity of parochial assist- ance. When was public virtue to be found "Where private was not ? Can he love the whole Who loves no part? He be a nation's friend Who is in truth the friend of no man there ? Can he be strenuous in his country's cause, Who slights the charities, for whose dear sake That county, if at all, must be beloved ? 1 was born of woman, and drew milk As sweet as charity from human breasts. I think, articulate, I laugh, and weep And exercise all functions of a man. 1 How then should I and any man that lives Be strangers to each other ? Pierce my vein, Take of the crimson stream meand'ring there And catechise it well ; apply thy glass Search it, and prove now if it be not blood Congenial with thine own : and if it be What edge of subtilty canst thou suppose Keen enough, v.ise and skilful as thou art, To cut the link of brotherhood, by which One common maker bound me to my kind ! Bone of my bone, flesh of my flesh indeed. Cowper's Poems. HOVINGHAM* berality and religious feeling of the parishioners. New ornaments, coverings, and cushions for the pulpit, reading desk, and communion table, were provided, and the communion plate richly chased and embossed, at the sole expence of Miss Worsley of the hall; and presented to the parishioners as a mark of her regard, and in consideration of their own laudable exertions in repewing and decoration; of the church. There is a handsome and costly monument of variegated marble erected to the memory of Thomas Worsley, Esq , who died in 1795, aged 63 ; and two smaller ones on the same side of the church, to the memory of Mrs. Ann and Frances Arthington, two maiden ladies of the ancient family of the Arthing- tons, of Arthington, and connections of the family of the Worsleys. A neat slab occurs on the south wall, to the memory of Mr. William Schoolcroft, late of this place. The tower and chancel are of greater antiquity than the body of the church : on the south side of the tower is inserted in the wall, a large oblong stone, evidently of great antiquity ; a bass-relief of 8 figures, with glories encircling the heads ; but nhich the lapse of time has so impaired, as to ren- der it difficult even to conjecture what historical, or other fact, this group was intended to represent. In the church-yard, and on the north side of the church, is a very large and handsome vault, the burial place of the Worsleys, surrounded with a massy iron railing, and a row of appropriate ever* greens. 804 Charity School, &c. On the south side of the church, adjoining the church wall, and at the ter- mination of a line of lofty and beautiful limes, stand the charity school, and school house. The school was endowed in 1808, by the Rev. James Graves, rector of Thorp Basset, with ,10. a year; being the interest at that time of ,200., vested in the na- vy 5 per cents, in the names of the Rev. John Clea- ver, D. D., George Wbrsley, Clerk, Thomas Robson, Kobert Baddison, Elias Inchbald, and their suc- cessors, for the education of 12 poor children of the township of Hovingham. The sum of 20- had been previously left in 1716, by Mrs. Frances Arthington, of Arthington ; the interest of which was to be applied towards educating 4 children of the same township. The present master is Mr. Richard Joy, who is allowed also to educate the other children of the village. Additional Charities. There are other charitable bequests, mentioned in the table of benefactions in the church, and amounting collectively to 118, the interest of which is distributed at Christmas, a- mongst the most necessitous of the parishioners. The Hall. Hovingham was anciently the seat of the great Roger de Mowbray,* but is now poss- essed by the Worsley family. The late Thomas * Rogfer de Mowbray, the founder of Byland Abbey, gave in Hovingham, common of pasture in this forest and territory, and in the woods hereof, with the patronage ef the church in this place, But the church of Hovingham being afterwards appropriated to the abbey of Byland, a stipendiary curate does the duty for .20. per annum. Burton's Monasticon, p. 333 HOVINGHAM. SOS Worsley, Esq., who was Master of the Board of Works, to his late majesty George III., erected the present modern mansion, on the plan of an Italian villa, and which Arthur Yonng, in his ' Six months* Tour,' thus describes : "The approach to Mr. Worsley's house is through a very large stone gate-way, upon which is the fol- lowing inscription ; * Virtus in actione consistit.' And as this building (the Riding house) looks pretty much like the gable end of a large house, I mistook it at first, with that inscription, for an hospital. The entrance is directly out of the street for coaches, through a narrow passage into a large riding house, then through the anti-space of two stables, and so up to the house door. In the hall is an antique basso-relievo of a bacchanalian group : two bronzes, Hercules grasping Antaeus, and a Hercules and a stag ; likewise a very good portrait of Bishop Williams. The chimney piece is of white sienna marble, with doric pillars ; an instance of the bad effect of pillars without bases, even of that order. The pannels of the room are painted in fresco, sacrifice to Diana, &c." In the library, drawing and dining rooms, are several busts and statues, drawings and pictures. In the gardens, in 1745, was discovered a Roman hypocaust and bath ; and in another place, a small tesselated pavement. There were also found, in making the gardens, con- siderable remains of buildings, evidently proving the spot to have been the scite of a Roman villa.* * In 1820 there was also discovered at Hoyingham & Woods, Grounds, &c. At the western extremity of the village, a stranger is struck by the appea- rance of a magnificent horse chesnut, the largest and finest in this part of the county, and whose giant arms, " throwing themselves athwart the stream," forcibly recal to the recollection, Cowper's beautiful lines on Yardley Oak : Thou wert a bauble once, a cup and ball "Which babes might play with, and the thievish jay Seeking her food, with ease might have purloined The auburn nut that held thee, swallowing down Thy yet close folded latitude of boughs And all thine embryo vastness at a gulp. But fate thy growth decreed. - Time made thee what thou wast, king of the woods* Time was when settling on thy leaf, a fly Could shake thee to the root and time has beeA When tempest could not. At thy firmest age Thou hast within thy bole solid contents celt, an ornament of brass in the shape of a small wedge > about 3 inches long, and 1J broad, the broader end formed into a socket for the purpose apparently of being attached to a pole. It perhaps formed an orna- ment of the Roman Standard ; -and a small loop on one side, will perhaps ascertain it to have belonged to the standard called Vexillum. " The standard of the caval- ry was called vexillum, a flag or banner, i. e. a square piece of cloth fixed on the end of a spear. (Livy.) Used also by the foot. (Caesar vi. 33, 37.) Vide Adam's Roman Antiquities, p. 381. In 1823, 16 similar ornaments were discovered at Slit- tenham in the parish of Sheriff-Button, and forwarded to- the Marquis of Stafford to whom the estate belongs. For a furhcr account of this instrument see page 147. HOVINGHAM. 207 That might have ribb'd the sides and piank'dthe deck Of some flagg'd admiral. The pleasure grounds and woods belonging to the Worsleys, are beautiful, romantic, and diversified. From the bridge which stands at the head of a fine sheet of water, an interesting view is caught of the hall on the one hand, and on the other of a narrow vale, which extends itself to the neighbouring mill. Down this vale a rivulet winds its silent course > intersecting the extensive pastures which occupy the lower grounds, and extend themselves halfway up the slope of the surrounding hills; the brow and steeper parts of which, crowned \*ith woods, ter- minate the scene. The cattle of the poorer villagers, to whose use this pasture is generously appropria- ted, when seen scattered along this lovely vale, or browsing upon the banks of the adjoining lake, add, tothe eye of the philanthropist, a peculiar interest to the scene. During their annual festival, in the autumn, the crowds of gaily dressed inhabitants, or their visitors, which pour from the village, covering the sides of the hill, to witness the rural sports and festivity in the vale below, give a liveliness, gaiety, and ani- mation to this scene ; which is not less lovely when traversed by the silent footstep, or contemplative eye. From one particular station in the grounds, a rude seat of stones encircling an aged fir, and well known to the inhabitants by the name of the Pick- ering knoll, a very rich and extensive prospect presents itself. Looking down the vale, and over the grounds 208 HOVINGHAM. to the mansion and village of Ff ovingham, the eye ranges onwards to Slingsby, Barton, Appleton, Malton, Pickering, the Wolds, and to where the view terminates with the hills in the vicinity of Scarbro.' Another beautiful landscape presents it- selfon the left, where are seen, the hillof Cauklass, with its line of aged firs, -the small village and church of Stonegrave, sheltering under its friendly, bank, the hall of Laysthorpe, and the romantic village of Oswaldkirk. The woods that extend themselves at the back of this station, are of great extent, covering no less than 450 acres of ground. An oak tree of unusual bulk and extraordinary beau- ty, which occurs on the outskirts of the wood, near the village of Cawton ; and from which the hand of feeling and taste have hitherto witheld that indis- criminate and universal leveller, the axe, here stands monarch of the woods ; and like an ancient patriarch has witnessed successive generations, suc- cessively rising and successively passing away ; while unmoved he stands amidst his upstart juniors, awaiting the hand of time. .... .... .... .... To time The task is left to whittle thee away "With his sly scythe, whose ever-nibbling edge- Noiseless, an atom, and an atom more, Disjoining from the rest, will, unobserved Achieve a labour, whicij had far and wide By man performed, made all the forest ring. Cowper's Yardley Oak. Through these woods a Roman vicinal road has probably passed from Malton through this village IIOVINGHAM. 209 near Yearsley moor, through Easingwolcl, Alne, and over the river Ure at Aldwork ferry, to Aid- borough. There are two villages called Barton- on-the-street, and Appleton-on-the-street, in this road, but of which road few traces now remain. Mineral Springe. About a mile from the village, and passing through the grounds, and some of the scenery already described, we arrive at a field of marshy ground, in which, and at no great distance from each other, occur three several springs of to- tally dissimilar character. The first, sulphureous, resembling the waters of Harrogate ; the second, chalybeate, similar to those ofScarbro'; the third, beautifully clear spring water. The last which is remarkable for its extreme coldness, has been formed into a bath, in a secluded spot, surrounded with trees; and the first, which has performed several cures, particularly in scorbutic cases, has also been provided by the liberality of Miss Wor- sley, with another bath ; but being in an exposed situation, a small room for the convenience of dress* ing, is still a desideratum. This water which is considered equal in strength to either those of Cr<*ft, or Middleton, is conveyed by pipes into two small basins, ( for the conveni- ence of those who drink the waters,) from whence it runs to the bath ; the spring itself being enclos- ed for greater security, by substantial covering of stone-work. TOWNSHIPS IN THE PARISH OF HOVINGHAM. East-Ness 6 miles from Kirkby-Mooraide. 7 Dd 210 HOVINGHAM. from Helmsley, and 10 from Malton; the seat of Thomas Kendall Esq., and formerly the residence ofthe ancient Roman Catholic family of the Cray- thorne's, ofCraythorne, in Cleveland. Part ofthe park walls still remains, but the splended mansion placed in a low damp situation, has been pulled down, with the exception of one wing 1 , by the pre- sent owner, who has built a neat modern house, in a more elevated situation, near the Malton road. The lands at Ness have long been noted for their extraordinary fertility, and the present proprietor is well known amongst agriculturists, for his fine improved breed of sheep, of which there is an annu- al show, attended by purchasers from every part of the country. In a ploughed field near the village, was found in 1616, the following sepulchral inscription, on a sarcophagus which contained human bones : TITIA A PINTA A VIX A ANN A XXXVIII* A VAL A ADIVTORI A VIX A ANN XX VAR10LO A VIX A ANN A XV VAL VINDICIANUS A CONIVGI ET FILIIS F. C. Titiae pientissimae, vixit annos triginta oeto ; Et Valerio Adjutori, vixit annos viginti ; Et Variolo, vixit annos quindecim : Valerius Vindicianus conjugi et filiis Faciendum curavit. Valerius Vindicianus has caused this monument to be erected to the memory of his very pious wife - HOVINGHAM. 211 Titia, who died at the age of 38, to his son Vale- rius Adjutor, who died at the age of 20 and his son Variolus who died at the age of 15. " The com- " mas at the top of the letters are very singular. " The inscription has not like that at old Penrith, " the D. M. (for Dis Manibus) usually prefixed to " Roman epitaphs. Perhaps this Vindician had " become a Christian after the old Penrith mon- " ument was erected. The name Titia, occurs in u Fleet wood, 232. 4. PINT A is not a part of the *' name, as Horsley and others make it, but a con- " traction for PIENTISSIMA, or PIISSIMA ; as ap- " pears from Fleet wood, 288. 1. Perhaps Adjutori " should be rendered the assistant, instead of read- " ing it as a proper name. There were officers ** called adjutores, as appears from the notitia, sect. w 49, 52 f 53 ; and Valerius might be adjutor to his " father." Vide Young's Hist, of Whitby, p. 713. Ness is in the direct line of the Roman road from Malton, towards Cleveland. Vindician probably resided at Hovingham, which must have been a Roman station from the remains of a hypocaust and bath, a tesselated pavement, some fortifications, and several Roman coins found here in 1745; The other townships in the parish of Ilovingham, present little worthy of remark, excepting that most of them command vie\* s similar in extent ; tho', taken as a whole, not equally beautiful, or in- deed to be compared with those around Hovin* gham. At Col ton there was formerly a chapel of ease to Hovingham, but of which no vestige at present HOVINGHAM. remains, though there is a field, which still retains the name of the chapel field. At Wath, a short mile from Hovingham, on the Mnllon road, there are some remains of an old and extensive ruin, supposed to have been the mansion, or castle of some ancient family, for either of which purposes it is well adapted, from the extraordinary beauty of its situation, and commanding scite.* It was probably in the possession of the de Mow- brays, who, we are informed by Camden, enjoyed extensive domains in the immediate neighbourhood, (at Gilling and Slingsby,) and at one period held Hovinghara, in the same parish. On the north side of the road, between Hovingham and Wath,is a long line of stately and venerable elms. At Fryton, a short distance from Wath, and also on the Malton road, mounds of earth, and other in- equalities in the surface, indecate the foundation of some similar buildings, formerly ornamented with fish ponds and pleasure grounds. OSWALDKIRK. Oswaldkirk,t 3 miles from Helmsley, 1\ from * By the kindness of Mr. Walker, of Wath, I am en abled to state that the foundations have extended from east to west, 100 yards, by a breadth of 60 yards ; and the remains of a park wall are discoverable on the south side, enclosing from 3 to 400 acres of ground. Bones liave also been found near the house, indicating the scite of an old chapel, in all probability attached to the man- sion* t Oswaldkirk is spelt in the Domesday book, Os OSWALBKIRK. Kirby-Moorside, 13 from Mai ton, and 20 from York. Oswaldkirk is situated on the high road from York to Helmsley, and serves as a bye-post for the villa- ges to the east and west of it. This parish comprises Oswaldkirk, Newton Grange, and Oswaldkirk in Ampleforth quarter, and contains collectively a population of 388 inhabitants ; viz. Oswaldkirk and Newton Grange 212, and Oswaldkirk in Am- pleforth quarter 176. The church is a rectory dedicated to St, Oswald,* waldesehercha, or the church of Oswald, and is there stated to have been amongst the lands given by William the Conqueror to the Earl of Morton, and Berenger de Todeni. Bawdwen's Domesday. 1.72,121. * Oswald,the patron saint of this church and from whem the village derives its name, was that celebrated king of .Northumbria who is mentioned by the venerable Bede, as having erected the first church in Bernicia, and called in the assistance of the no less celebrated Aidan, a monk of the flourishing monastery of Tona, in Scotland ; who, in the character of bishop of Northumbria, laboured with great diligence and success, in the conversion of the people, under the patronage of Oswald. This prince was so zealous for the propagation of the gospel, that until Aidan had learned the language of the country, he often acted as his interpreter ; a task for which he was well qualified, by h'4 long exile among the Scots. This extraordinary zeal on the part of Oswald, arose from the following circumstance ; being about to inarch against Cedwall, the Briton King of Cumberland, he set up across, humbly imploring the aid of Christ to his worshippers, and immediately raising his voice, cried aloud to the army, " Let us all fall upon our knees, and 4< beseech the Almighty, living, and true God, by hie *' mercy to deliver us from this fierce and haughty foe.'* 4< We do not find," says Bede, " that any sign of Christ- '* ianity, any church, or any altar, had been set up in this *' whole nation before this banner of the holy cross was 214 OSWALDKIRK. value in the king's books, 10. Is, 8d. ; patron, the Rev. Thomas Comber, the present rector ; curate, the Rev. Henry Comber, reared, by this new commander of the army, from the impulse of devout faith, when he was on the point of engaging with a most cruel enemy." Oswald, experiencing in this battle the aid of Christ, which he had implored, immediately embraced Christian- ity, nnd sent for Aidan, to instruct his subjects in the Christian faith ; and the field of victory had from suc- ceeding ages the name of HEAFENFIELD, or the HEAVEN- IY-FIELD, now to the same effect called II AI.FDON. Cam- den iii, 492, " There is a fame" says Leland, '' that Oswald wan the battle at Halydene, two miles east from St. Oswald ; ashe, and that HALIDEN is it that Bede calleth HAVEN-FIELP, and that men thereabout yet find small wooden crosses in the ground." Itinerary, vii, 73. Thechuich erected on the spot is still standing, and in a late repair was found a silver coin of Oswald, with his bust and a cross on the reverse. Camden iii, 509. Quis fuit Alcides ? Caesar Julius ? aut quis Magnus Alexander? Alcides se superasse Fertur; Alexander mundum ; sed Julius hostem \ Se, simul Oswaldus, et mundum vicit, et hostem. Who was Alcides ? Alexander who? Or Julius Caesar ? Let the first subdue Himself, the next the world the last the foe, Oswald subdued himself the world the foe. Camden. III. p. 492. The victory of Oswald was marked with humanity ; every action of his is represented in the fairest light ; but we must recollect that the historians of his conduct were extremely partial. His liberality was unbounded, his piety sincere, and his knowledge extensive. After ex- tending his power, improving the state of the country, and ornamenting it with churches, the glory of his splen- did reign was clouded in the end. The hoary-headed Penda, king of Mercia, cut short the number of his days ; he fell, together with the flower of his army, A. D. 642, in an engagement with the pagan monarch, at Musei field QSWALDKIRK. 215 The Village. Oswaldkirk is romantically situ- ated at the eastern extremity of the Hambleton hills, at the foot of a precipitous bank, which arises ab- ruptly at the back of the village, sheltering it on the north, and adding considerably to its beauty by the woods and plantations which adorn its side. On descending the hill by the York road, a quarry of unusual depth presents itself on the left, formed of an immense mass of limestone rock, strata upon strata, and exhibiting a bare and rugged surface ; in Shropshire. The inhuman Penda mangled the dead body of the king, and to refine upon brutality itself, he caused the reeking fragments to be placed yet streaming with blood, upon the points of stakes, as trophies of his victory." Young's Hist, of Whitby p. 26. A town was built near the spot, which the Christians of that age ac- counted sacred, and was called after him Oswestre, (Oswestry,) Oswaldstre, or Oswald's town. On the top of Winwick church near Warrington, Lan- cashire, were, in Camden's time, these lines in a barbarous old character, relating to King Oswald ; Hie locus, Oswalde, quondam placuit tibi valde Northanhumbrorum fueras Rex, nuncque Polorum Regna tenes ? locopassus Marcelde vocato. Oswald, this ground was grateful found To thee, whose hand Northumberland Late ruled, now owns celestial thrones, In Marcelde field thou life didst yield. Camden. iii. 8. 35. It was not to be supposed that so celebrated a prince, martyr, and saint, as Oswald appears to have been, would soon pass from the remembrance of the Christian world ; and accordingly we find that his name was immortalized by the various religious edifices dedicated to him as their patron saint; amongst which we may instance the chur- ches of Oswaldkirk, Flambro 1 near Bridlingtofl, and JVostal Priory, near Pontefract. 216 eSWALDKIRK. from which the eye is pleasingly relieved, by the appearance of a magnificently spreading elm, grow- ing alone out of the side of the precipitous bank ; and whose pendent branches hang gracefully droop- ing towards the road. This beautiful tree forms one of the distinguishing ornaments of the village, and has, with equal judgment and good taste, been sup- ported by an embankment of stone, which will prevent the shooting of the soil, and consequent exposure of its roots ; thus promising a long continuance to its mature honours. From this part of the hill, the village street is seen, in which are several neat houses, the church with its pictur- esque turret, the ivy-clad wall, the last remnant of its ruined monastery, and the old hall at the extremity of the village, forming together a beau- tiful coup d'cail, and a lovely landscape for the artist's pencil* The village festival, or Oswaldkirk feast, occurs on the first Sunday after the 6th day of July. The Church is a very small but extremely neat edifice, with two very ancient pillars at the entrance door on the south, and within the church, an arch of saxon architecture. In the chancel, and on either side of the altar, are too handsome marble monu- ments ; that on the left recording the untimely death of Mary, the daughter of Edward Thompson, Esq. ; by Mary, the daughter of William Moor, Esq,, a lovely and only child, cut off at the early age of 8 years, and whose loss is feelingly deplored in the verses placed on her monument ; but which, though sufficiently expressive of a parent's feelings, are OSWALDKIRK. scarcely poetical enough to merit insertion. The monument on the opposite side is to the memory of her father ; a character of some celebrity in his day. This monument bears the following inscription ; To the memory of Edward Thompson, of Marston, Esq., son of Ed ward Thompson, and Lucy, daughter pf Bradwardine Tindal, Esq. In 1724, He married Arabella, daughter of Edvf. Duncb, Esq, In 1757, He married Mary, the daughter of William Moor, of Oswaldkirk, Esq. By whom he had one daughter. He was member of parliament for the city of York, 10 years. A eommissioner of customs in Ireland, !7 years; Was then made one of the lords of the Admiralty. With all the virtue and accomplishments, which finish the private and social character, He was that zealous and true friend To our happy Constitution in church and state, That his death was a singular loss to the public. Obt. July 25, A. D. 1742. jEtat. 45. On a black marble slab of extraordinary size, covering nearly the whole space within the altar rails, is a brass plate containing the following in* ocription to the memory of his wife ; Sacred to the memory of Mary the daughter of William Moor, of 218 OSWALDKIRK. Oswaldkirk, Esq., and wife of Edward Thompson. Who departed this life 1784 aged 72. f She was eyes to the blind, and feet to the lame, " and the blessing of him that was ready to " perish came upon her." " Memoria justorum erit benedicta." Terrestrial objects quickly fly, They haste to swift decay ; Remind us of the mouldering tomb, "Which leads to heaven the way. In the floor of the aisle, which leads into the chancel, is a large flag, on which there is simply engraved an abbot's crosier, or pastoral staff, with- out any inscription. It is possible that it may re- late to the old monastery, a small part of the ruin of which is still visible. 1 examined the floor of the chancel narrowly in every direction, searched the aisle and the flag on every side, vainly attempting to find some clue to this mysterious staff; there it presented itself simply and tanta- lizingly, baffling my researches, and forcibly bring- ing to my recollection the expressive lines of my favourite Cowper. My name ray country what are they to thee "What, whether base or proud, my pedigree ? Perhaps I far surpassed all other men Perhaps I fell below them all, what then ? Suffice it, stranger 1 that thou see'st a tomb- Thou know'st its use it hides no matter whom. OSWALDKIRK. In this church Archbishop Tillotson is said to have preached his first sermon, the rector of Oswald- kirk at that time, the Rev. John Denton, afterwards rector of Stonegrave, being his particular friend and acquaintance at that time. In 1820, a clock was presented to the church, by the liberality of the Rev. Thomas Comber, the pres- ent rector, and is placed in the tower. It is a remarkable fact, that the registers of this parish commence as early as the year 1538 ; the very year in which parish registers first began to be kept, in pursuance to an act passed in the reign, of Henry VIII. They are prefaced with this quaint title ; " A true and perfect regystre of all such christ- " enings marriages and burialls as hath been in the " prish of Oswaldkirk, beginninge in the yeare of our Lord God 1538." For documents of so old a date, they are remark- ably legible, and appear to have been kept with the greatest regularity for many subsequent years. All the entries are numbered, a necessary, but unusual, precaution, previous to modern times. It was with singular satisfaction I discovered at the bottom of the 7th page, No. 301, the following entry of the baptism of that prince of antiquaries, Roger Dods- worth, who was born at Newton Grange, in this parish ; " Roger Dodsworth baptized 24 Aprill 1585." I am thus enabled to correct a mistake, which has more than once appeared in print, stating him to, have been bora on the 21th of July. OSWALDKIRK. Old Monastery. Near the church, but on th Opposite side of the road, are the remains of a very Ancient building, supposed to be a monastery, begun in the ninth century, but never completed, the esiab- lishment being removed to Old By land. The old -wall, surmounted beautifully by spreading ivy which tvaves over its antique ruins, forms a very pictur- esque object in passing through the village. Charitable Bequests. The table of benefactions In the church, contains a long list of charitable be- quests. Mrs. Mary tfysh gave 60 ; Mrs. Eliza beth Moor ,40 ; and William Sedgwick 20 ; amounting collectively to ^120, which was paid into the hands of Mrs. Mary Thompson, for the se- curity of which she gave a deed, bearing date April 20th, 1762, settling two fields, one entitled West Pitts, in this parish, the other called Hick's Ings, in the parish of Ampleforth. Out of the rents of the above two fields, 4. was to be given to a school- master for the education of 8 poor children ; 10s for Repairing the school house when necessary, and tvhen not, to be paid to the schoolmaster; and Jgi. to be equally divided between the poor of the townships of Oswaldkirk, and Oswaldkirk in Anr> f)leforth quarter ; the residue of the rents to be Distributed amongst the poor of the township of Oswaldkirk. In addition to the charities arising Out of the rents of these two fields, Lady Catharine Chomley, of west Newton Grange, left C 2. to the poor of the township of Oswaldkirk, and 20s. for an Annual sermon at the chapel of west Newton Grange, to be preached on the 6th of July, old Midsummer OSWALDKIRK. day ; which suras, together with a charitable be- quest to the adjoining parish of Ampleforth, were made payable out of certain lands then in the pos- session of Hopperton, ef Hovingham ; but now belonging to the Worsley family, Sir Richard Vaughan left I. on lands at Ampleforth, to be equally divided between Oswaldkirk, and Oswald- kirk in Ampleforth quarter. Mrs. Elizabeth Hassel left 12. 10s. to the poor of Oswaldkirk in Ampleforth quarter. Mrs. Dorothy Comber, of Kirkby-Moorside, left in 1820, the interest of 100. to be appropriated to the poor of Oswaldkirk, and Oswaldkirk in Ampleforth quarter. The Rev. J. Pigott, late Rector of Oswaldkirk, left 100. the interest of which was to be paid to the parish clerk ; and Mr. Thomas Carter, late of Oswaldkirk, left 50. to a schoolmaster, for teaching poor children. In addition to which fixed and per- manent charities, the schoolmaster receives 8. as a voluntary annual donation from Thomas Porter Banner, Esq., for the education of poor children ; and the executors of Mrs. Mary Thompson, continue to allow 1. to the schoolmaster, and 4, to the poor of Oswaldkirk, and Oswaldkirk in Am- pleforth quarter, as a voluntary annual donation. The following table will exhibit at one view, a clear statement of this intricate* list of charities, * The intricate list of charities recorded on the ta- ble of benefactions in this church, points out very clear- ly the absolute necessity of some public document of this kind. For, if even on a table they present so much in- tricacy, what would have been the case had they been eutirely left to eral tradition or loose detached scraps 222 OSWALDKIRK. arranged under separate and distinct heads ; accor- ding to the distribution of 1823. 'o of paper ? There are various instances on record, where from the want of such public documents, as a table of benefactions always under the eye of every individual in the parish, chanties have been either totally lost and forgotten, or have been perverted from the original in- tent and meaning of the donor. But as a table of be- nefactions must from its very nature, contain only a con- cise summary, without entering into minute particulars ; it is further and earnestly recommended to ministers of parishes to provide a register to be kept with the other parish registers, in which should be entered, a particular and circumstantial account of the date a- mount object and mode of investment and security of each seperate bequest; to which should be added from time to time, such alterations as may have taken place, or any additional charities which may have been left. If in this record, the minister would be at the trouble of noting down, in the form of concise annals, any principal, or very remarkable occurrence that may Jiave taken place in the parish, it would form an inval- uable record for the consultation of " ages yet unborn. " With regard to the distribution of charities, the fol- lowing mode which has already been adopted with con- siderable success may be suggested. That the distribu- tion should take place about Christmas or Newyear's day, when the poor experience the greatest privations, either from want of employment the inclemency of the season or the various little payments they are then called upon to make, and when such seasonable relief would prove peculiarly acceptable. Previous to the distribution, the minister and churchwarden should draw out a list of the most necessitous of the parishioners, arranging them under three classes. I. Aged and infirm poor. II. Poor with large families. III. Poor with less numerous families :--and let them affix to each name such mm as the necessity of each individual case may demand, or the money to be distributed will admit. After the arrangement of the list, the minister and his church- warden, should visit each cottage in person, one distri- buting, and the other taking the list, and affixing a mark to each name as they proceed* OSVVALDKIRK. 5* ^ H 5d ^ ^ ^ IT" 1 SS y fc & ^* ( 223 g = 32 *S 2- p crq -i _ b 3 3J ~^?<^~ 3 a.^LS p << 5* 3*1* ^S e w - JL ^. O Lcq ji, - O ? 3 S & <-l- o b '. ~. ', ~ 1 I e+ * " * ' S": : : : :| Q : : : : : JS co r: : : : * S- PC) k_j O 00 o tSOOOOC>^t7 1 < '3 o oo oo o ooooooo^g o oo co o oooopoo?--? :: :::::::, ^ tso rf. oo> ootoonS. > H-> BJ OO **. OOrf^OOOOcoC. a ^ o oo o ooooooop-* : : : : : : : ^u? * tSO ts OO*OOOOf o> oo o> o o o o> o o o : i i i : i ' * OCnOOOOO^ O oooooooa. The presence of the minister oh such eccasions pre- heats jealousies, and the idea of favouritism on the part OSWALDKIRK. The schoolmaster receives his salary of 15/, by quarterly payments, and educates for this sum 15 free scholars of the township of Oswaldkirk. Mr. Francis Hill is the present master ; who is allowed to instruct other children of the village, in addition to the free scholars. Average amount of scholars 25. Old Hall, Rectory, &c. Oswaldkirk hall, the property of Thomas Porter Banner, Esq., and the late residence of the Rev. Francis Simpson, is now unoccupied, and rapidly going to decay. Its situa- tion is beautiful, the house large and commodious, and the gardens neat and tastefully laid out ; but all within is solitary and desolate ! How painful is it to a lover of rural retirement, to observe so of the churchwarden, which the poor are too apt to en- tertain ; it brings him too in contact with the lowest of his parishioners- shews him their wants convinces them of his interest in their welfaresproduces recipro- cal good- will and mutually kind feelings. lam aware of the sentiments of a great wiiter (Dr Chalmers in his Civic Economy of large Towns,) but his reasoning appears to me peculiarly applicable to paro- chial relief, or, such weekly distribution, as in Scot- land forms a substitute for it, and not to a solitary instance of merely annual occurrence. The plan here recommended for adoption, may be cen- sured by some as troublesome; but surely when we consider our responsibility as ministers, both to God and man, and the glorious example set us by him, who went about CONTINUALLY doing good, when we consider the duties imposed upon us by our ordination vows, as well as the calls of humanity ard Christian charity, we shall not grudge a few hours annually devoted to so benevo- lent a purpose. Let the experiment but once be tried, and then " the blessing of him that was ready to perish," the happy faces, and the grateful acknowledgements of all, will convince us that ' to distribute and to do good' is uot only well pleasing to Hod. but carries iu itself its owo. reward. OSWALDKIRK.' 225 many interesting and beautiful country seats, de- serted by their opulent owners, for the heartless mirth, and crowded streets of the metropolis. But the contagion spreads, and seat after seat becomes deserted, where the ruined wall, and the grass-grown w alk, bespeak our gentry fled. They who once formed the pride and ornament of the country, encouraging, by their presence and their influence, habits of industry promoting plans of general improvement, and dispensing with a liber- al hand their blessings on all around, are fled. The stately castle, and substantial hall, surrounded with extensive parks, or tasteful pleasure grounds, the scenes of innocence and health now stand neglected and mouldering to decay ; whilst their proprietors flying to the spruce edifice of glaring brick, crowded and elbowed by its unknown neigh- bour, indulge in all the luxury of smoke and dust and darkness. So potent is the spell, That none decoyed into that fatal ring, Unless by heaven's peculiar grace escape, There we grow early grey, but never wise, There form connexions, but acquire no friend* Waste youth in occupations only fit For second childhood, and devote old age, To sports which only childhood could excuse* There they are happiest, who dissemble best Their weariness ; and they most polite Who squander time and treasure with a smile, Though at their own destruction. She, that asks Her dear *IVE HUNDRED FRIENDS contemns them all Ff 22(5 OSWALDKIRK. And hates their coming. They, (what can they less?) Make just reprisals ; and with cringe and shrug And bow obsequious, hide their hate of her. All catch the frenzy, downward from her Grace, Whose flambeaux flash against the morning skies And gild our chamber ceilings as they pass, To her, who, frugal only that her thrift May feed excesses she can ill afford, Is hackneyed home unlackeyen ; who in haste Alighting, turns the key in her own door, And, at the watchman's lantern borrowing light, Finds a cold bed her only comfort left. Wives beggar husbands, husbands starve their wives. On fortune's velvet altar offering up Their last poor pittance. So fare we in this prison house the world. And 'tis a fearful spectacle to see So many maniacs dancing in their chains. They gaze upon the links that hold them fast. With eyes of anguish, execrate their lot, Then shake them in despair, and dance again! Nature, enchanting nature, in whose form And lineaments divine I trace a hand That errs not, and find raptures still renewed, Loses her influence. Cities then Attract us, and neglected nature pines Abandoned, as unworthy of our love. But are not wholesome airs And groves whose very silence charms, To be preferr'd to smoke, to the eclipse, That metropolitan volcanoes make, Whose Stygian throats breathe darkness all day long ; And to the stir of commerce, driving slow, OSWALDKIRK; 227 And thundering loud, with his ten thousand wheels ? They would be, were not madness in the head, And folly in the heart ; were England now, What England was, plain, hospitable, kind, And undebauched. But we have bid farewell To all the virtues of those better days, And all their honest pleasures. Mansions once Knew their ownmasteri ; and laborious hinds, Who had survived the father, served the son. Now the legitimate and rightful lord Is RUT A TRANSIENT GUEST, newly arrived, As soon to be supplanted. He, that saw His patrimonial timber cast its leaf, Sells the last scantling, and transfers the price To some shrewd sharper, ere it buds again. Estates are landscapes, gazed upon awhile, Then advertised, and auctioneered away. Cowper's Task, book iii. The unfortunate influence of a southern resi- dence on our hardy sons of the north, was a com- plaint as old as the time of Caraden, who speaking of the deleterious effects of a southern climate ob- serves. "As these and such families in these north- 10,000 to the Rev. John Bolton, who devoted it to the enlargement and en" clowmentof this college. The building has since been considerably enlarged ; but in consequence o f 231 OSWALDKIRK. these additions having been made at different pe- riods, it does not present any uniform or well con- nected plan ; though the front is handsome. The college is governed by a superior, who, according to the regulations of the college, is removed every four years, arid six assistant teachers, who instruct the young gentlemen, whose average number may be about 40, in the Classics, Mathematics, and other branches of a liberal education. The present superior is the Rev. Thomas Bur- gess ; of whom report speaks favourably, as well as the general superintendanceand management of the college, and the classical attainments of the pupils. In March, 1808, the Rev. Robert Nixon, B. D. F. A. s. presented a drawing of an urn, to the An- tiquarian Society, found in a barrow here, formed by a circle of large stones, about ten feet in diameter ; the urn was at the depth of between three and four feet, near the centre of the barrow. Archaeologia, SLINGSBY. Slingsby,* in the wapentake of Ryedale, 7 miles * At the conquest, Slingsby formed a part of the im- mense possessions assigned to the Earl of Morton, by William the Conqueror. In the Domesday survey it is thus mentioned : *' In Selungesbi (Slingsby,) fourteen carucatesof land orna- mented in the same manner. The interior of the fabric consists of a chancel and nave, which are separated by another saxon arch. In the east wall of the chancel, is a monument belonging to the Dowker family, on which is inscribed the following: IN MEMORY OF JOHN DOWKER, OF SALTON, ESQ,. AND MARY HIS WIDOW: THE FORMER DIED JUNE 9th, 1816, JE 63; THE LATTER DEC. 7th, 1820, ,62. GRATEFUL TO DIVINE PROVIDENCE FOR ALL ITS BLESSINGS, HAPPY IN MUTUAL AFFECTION AND ESTEEM, TENDER AND AFFECTIONATE TO THEIR NUMEROUS OFFSPRING, SINCERE AND HOSPITABLE TO THEIR FRIENDS, 254: EDSTONB. GENEROUS AND KIND TO THEIR DE- PENDANTS, CHARITABLE AND HUMANE TO THE POOR; THEY PASSED THROUGH THE VALE OF LIFE, AND DEPARTED AMIDST UNIVERSAL REGRET, IN THE HOPE OF A BLESSED IMMOR- TALITY, RELYING, SOLELY, ON THE MERIT AND ATONEMENT OF JESUS CHRIST, THEIR SAVIOUR AND REDEEMER. THEIR SURVIVING FAMILY UNITE IN ERECTING THIS MONUMENT, AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE TO THEIR BELOVED PARENTS. The register of this parish commences with the year 1690 ; and the following is a list of the vicars, irom-that time :- "When instituted. Name of Incumbent. Vacated ^ Robert Taylor, died..., 1695- 16 96 Christopher, 47 years > 1704 3.1) t vicar, died aged SO, > 1743 ...Philip Dowker, died 1788,7 y . ,',, ,but vacated j 1784 Christopher Dowker, buried > 1010 at Sinnington ; died ) 1819 Edmund Dowker. Rev. M. A. Mack- ereth. curate. ( 255 ) y EDSTONE.* ./.', . 5di Great Edstone, in the wapentake of Ryedale, is situated on an eminence, which overlooks a vast ex- tent of country. The hill on which it it is built is nearly round, and looks at a distance as though it had been raised by art. The land is in general good, and the village healthy. From the northern entrance into it, is a fine and picturesque view of Kirkby-Moorside ; the best which can be obtained. The parish has a population of 156. The village is 2 miles from Kirkby-Moorside, 8 from Pickering, 12 from Malton, and 26 from York. The church is a vicarage, value in the king's books 7. 10s. : in the parliamentary return 140 : the patron is George Dowker, Esq., and the incumbent the Rev, Christopher Roberts. On the south side of the church, over the door, is a saxon inscription, on a stone 3ft. llin long, and 1ft. 7|in. broad, consist* ing of two parts ; one on the west side of the dial, and the other above it : the first records the maker's name, and reads thus in modern letters : LO- THAN ME WROHTEA ; that is LOTHAN MADE ME : that over the dial is only a single * Ed is supposed to be a proper name, Edstone there- fore is so called from the name of an ancient possesser. Great Edstone was amongst the lands of Berenger de Todeni. In Micheledestune, (mickle or Great Edstone,) Gamel had eight carucates to be taxed. Land to four ploughs. Berenger now has it, and it is waste. Meadow eight acres. Wood, pasture here and there, two quar- ters long, and one broad. The whole one mile long and one bioad j v alue in king Edward's time 20s. Bawdwen's Domesday, p. 121, 256 NOHMANBT. word, in small characters, expressing the name of the dial; which may be read, ORLOGIL'MA- TORY ;* the word being apparently mutilated in the middle, where a fragment of the stone has been broken off above the gnomon. As the dial and the letters are executed in the same style as those at Kirkdale, they belong unquestionably to the same age. There is an antique font in the church, or- namented in the saxon style.t There is here a neat methodist chapel, built in the gothic style, 27ft, by 24. It was erected in the year 18S3; at the expence of Robert Campion, Esq., of Whitby ; by Thomas Rickaby, mason ; near the house occupied by Mr. John Smith, a tenant of Mr. Campion's. Edstone is entitled to a turn in one of the Lady Lumley's hospitals, erected at Thornton; and to the apprentice- fee left by the said munificient donor. I NORMANBY. Is situated in the wapentake of Ryedale, 4 miles s. E. of Kirkby-Moorside, 10 from Malton, and 28 from York. The road from Kirkby-Moorside to Malton passes through it. It contains a population of 191. The church is a rectory, value in the king's books 9, 12s. 6d. ; of which the Rev. Arthur Cay- ley is the incumbent. That part of the church which * This word is derived from orlogium, or horologium, a time-piece. f History of Whitby. Normanby was amongst the lands retained in the NORMANDY. 557 has not been renewed, appears to be very ancient ; having a saxon arch over the front door, facing' the south ; and in the north wall of the fabric is part of another arch of that description, and a few frag- ments of ancient pillars. On the west wall is a no- tice when that part of the building was renewed; of which the following is a copy : Matthew Bowes, Churchwarden, anno domini 1718. Opposite the west end of the church, facing the road, is a neat modern building, the residence of the Rev. Arthur Cayley. On the east side of the church is a mineral spring, which formerly issued from the bank close to the Seven-beck ; and which possesses some virtue. Lately the beck has washed away the bank, and has so interfered with the mouth of the spring, that the mineral waters are mixed with those of the river ; but as the spring runs east and west, and the Seven-beck north and south, the former might be recovered. This water is very strong of sulphur, and is highly charged with chal- ybeate; it is of a dark colour, and has a foetid smell. KIRBY-OVER-CARR, OR KIRBY-MIS- PERTON, Is situated in the wapentake and liberty of Picker- ing Lythe, 4 miles s. i. w. of Pickering. It contains a population of 170, having in its parish Great and Little Barugh, 241, Great Habton 136, Little Hab- K k 258 KIRBY-MISPERTOSr. ton 50, and % ton 2 1 2 ; total 809. The situation of the village is pleasant, having a commanding prospect of the delightful vale of Pickering. The original part of the church is very ancient, which is perceived by the numerous fragments of carved stones inserted in the modern walls, with the sculptured parts properly adjusted, for the gratifi- cation of those who are interested in the relics of antiquity. These fragments are to be seen on the outside of the chancel, on the north and east parts of it. In the north wall is one more interesting than the others ; it is part of an inscription on an oblong stone, which probably is a fragment of a monument. The characters appear to be saxon,but some of them are effaced. The church consists of a chancel, nave, and south aisle. The arches in the interior of the fabric are in the pointed gothic style, as is the front entrance ; and the interior is ornamented with a fine octagon font. The chancel of the church was rebuilt by Dr. Conyers ; and the walls are embossed with several handsome monuments. On the north of it are two to the memory of some branches of the Blumberg family ; one to the last possessor of the estate in this parish, now belonging to the present Dr. Blumberg. The former monument tells us that " William Blumberg, Esq., of Kirby-over-carr, in the county of York, departed this life on the 6th day of September, 1774, in the SSthyear of hisage/ The other is to the memory of Ursula Blumberg, widow of the Rev. William Nicholas Blumberg, rector of Fulham, in Middlesex, and mother of the late William Blumberg, Esq., of Kirby-over-carr; died Jan. 29th, 1783, aged 73. KIRBY-MISPERTON. 259 At the east end of the chancel are two other mo- numents, one to the memory of the Rev. John Clarke, M. A., and the other to the Rev. Dr. Tho- mas. The former informs us that near it are depo- sited the remains of the Rev. John Clarke,* M. A. formerly fellow of Trinity-college, in the university of Cambridge ; and successively master of the free grammar schools of Shipton, Beverley, and Wake- field, in this county. He was born in this village, May 3d, 1706, and died February 8th, 1761. To this is added a high encomium on his character, and we are told that this monument was raised to his memory by his pupils, as a token of their affection for him. The other monument records the memory of John Deere Thomas, D. D , rector of this parish, who died Jan. 1819, aged 84 years ; and of Mar- garet, his wife, who died Oct. 6th, 1809, aged 75. The Jiving is a rectory, in the gift of Charles Duncombe, Esq. j and the church is dedicated to St. Lawrence. All the information I can collect relative to the succession of vicars, refers to those who succeed- ed Dr. Conyers ; who removed from this living to Helmsley, about the year 1746. The Rev. Thomas Cumber was hia successor ; he was succeeded by * The life of this eminent man has been given to the public by the late Dr. Gouch ; under the title of The Good School-master. He was the son of a mechanic, who was extremely wishful to give him a liberal educa- tion ; the rector of the parish, discovering something superior in him, placed him in the school at Thornton; and afterwards obtained a small exhibition to assist him, at the university. He died at Scarborough, at the house of his brother, Mr, Francis Clarke. ' , 260 KIRBY-MISPERTON. ij- O7 i . , ( . ,. . the Rev. William Cumber, his brother, who was followed by the Rev. Dr. Thomas. He held the living upwards of 30 years. The present rector is the Rev. Edmund Gray, who has been the incum- bent 5 years. The rectory is an antique building, which has been surrounded by a moat. Mr. Gray has great- ly improved and beautified it. In 0113 part of the building is a very large and ancient room, which at present has a pump in it, and is perhaps used as a laundry ; which I conceive was once a private or domestic chapel. The garden belonging to the house has also been much improved by the present rector, and is laid out with peculiar taste. The Rev. William Noddins, B. D., late incum- bent of the perpetual curacy of Stockton, and fellow of Magdalene-college, Cambridge, and who died this year, formerly taught the school in this village ; endowed by Mr. William Smithson,- formerly of Clung ford, in the county of Essex, with 10 per annum ; for the teaching of the poor children of this parish. Near this village is situated the mansion of the Rev. F. W. Blomberg, D. D., one of the chaplains to his Majesty, prebend of St. Paul's, &c. &c. The estate here was presented to him by his present Majesty, when he became prince Regent ; it having passed to the crown. Near the mansion is an obe- lisk which I was informed was erected as a token of gratitude to his present Majesty, ( 261 ) SINNINGTON. Sinnington, a parish town in the wapentake of Pickering Lythe, 4 miles from Pickering, 3 from Kirkby-Moorside, 10 from Helmsley, 12 from Mai- ton, and 27 from York. This parish comprises 3 townships, which contain collectively a population of 614 inhabitants; viz. Sinnington 343, Marton 225, Little Edstone 16. The church is dedicated to All Saints, is a perpetu- al curacy, in the deanery of Ryedale, value, accor- ding: to the parliamentary return 80 ; patron the master of Hemsworth school, founded by Archbishop Holgate ; perpetual curate the Rev. Edmund Dow- ker, assistant curate the llev. M. Anthony Mackereth. The ancient name of this village was Sevenicton, Sivelington, or Sevenington ; a compound saxon word signifying the town on the river Seven.* It * " From Seven the name of the river, ing a place be- ur n, Appleton, Terrington, &c., in the county of York, leaving Elizabeth (the second wife of John, lord Neville, of Raby,) his daughter and heir, 24; years of age. This Elizabeth, surviving her husband, Join* SINNINGTON. 275 lord Neville, to whom she had borne a son John, afterwards married to her second husband, Robett lord Willoughby, of Eresby ;* ana dying 5 of Nov. 1396, left John de Latimer, her son by the lord Neville, her next heir, then 13 years of age. John de Latimer dying without issue, his lands came to Ralph de Neville, earl of Westmereland, his half brother by his father's first marriage with Maud, daughter of lord Percy, by a special feoffe- ment ; the inheritance whereof was given by that earl to his third son George, the first Neville lord Latimer, who married Elizabeth, daughter of the earl of Warwick, and died 30 of December, 1470, 9 of Edward IV. ; being then seized amongst other extensive possessions, of the manors of Sinning., ton, Snape, Scamston, and Thornton in Pickering Lythe, in the county of York ; leaving Richard Neville, his grandson, (son of Henry Neville, Knt. his only son, who had died during his father's life- time,) his next heir, at that time about 2 years of age. Richard Neville, lord Latimer, married Ann, * I may perhaps appear to have been unnecessarily circumstantial in these details, but as a mistake of some importance on this subject has crept into the " Magna " Brittania," where it is said that " Elizabeth, daughter * c and heir of William lord Latimer, marrying to lord " Willoughby of Eresby, carried this (Sinnington) and tl other lay estates, into his family ; which were inheri- 6i ted by her son William and his posterity," I hare deemed it right to set the matter at rest, by proving clearly from Dugdale, that she had been previously married to John lord Neville, of Raby, to whom she bore a son John, who succeeded to those estates by the title of John de Latimer, being the first lord Latimer of the Neville family; 276 SINNINGTON. daughter of Humphrey Stafford, Esq ,of Grafton,in the county of Worcester, by whom he had six sons, John, William, Thomas, Marmaduke, George, and Christopher ; and 6 daughters, Margaret, married to lord Willoughby de Brooke, Dorothy, Elizabeth, Catharine, Susan, and Joane ; and died 22 of Henry VIII , 1531 ; when John, his eldest son and heir, had a special livery of his lands. John lord Latimer married to his second wife the celebrated Catharine Parr,* daughter of Sir Thomas Parr, (and afterwards the last wife of Henry VIII.) by whom he had issue John and Margaret. Which John, ihe last lord Latimer of the family of Neville, * Young, in his history of Whitby, p; 732. observes that " Danby castle belonged to lord Latimer; and that " Catherine, wife of John lord Latimer, and afterwards " the last queen of Uenry VI II., is said to have resided " here, before her elevation." Now Leland observes in his Itinerary, vol I. 59. " that at Sinnington, the 11 282 within its limits no less than 8 different townships, which Contain a collective population of 1747 in- habitants, viz., Middleton 247, Aislaby 147, Wrel- ton 193, Cavvthorn 22, Rosedale, east side, 339, Cropton* 321, and Lockton 324. At the two lat- ter are situated chapels of ease, distant from the mother church, the one 4 and the other 6 rniles, in different directions. Rosedale was also formerly a chapel of ease to Middleton, but has been separa- ted by the governors of the bounty of queen Anne ; the vicar of Middleton still remaining entitled to the patronage. The church at Middleton is a vicarage in the deanery of iiyedale, value in the king's books 10. 11s. 3d., present value of the livin* according to the parliamentary return, ^90. patrons the Rev. Francis Wrangham, archdeacon * Year Cropton is Deckhouse, once the residence of the Robinson family ; and now the property of the repre- sentatives of the late Rev. John Robinson, of Weluurn. It is used as a farm house, and is inhabited by Mr. George Thorpe, tenant to Messrs. Cayley, Wrangham, and Smith. This house is very ancient, and is said t have been built with materials brought from an old man- sion at Cropton. In the south wall of the building, near the parlour window, cut in stoue, are the initials M. M. W. H. E. H. 1668. T. v. Near these initials is this singular inscription HE THAT COMES TO STEAL A PLOUM LOOK UP AND SIC WHO IS ABOWN ; BE WAKE; GOD SEES. Over the upper window is the bust of a person in a clerical habit, to whom the depredator is adm ni.-hed to look when he comes to steal a plum ; tins figure, it appears, is to represent the deity. 283 of Cleveland, the Kev. Arthur Cay ley, and T. Smith Esq. There is a small but neat parsonage-house attached to the living. The village of Middleton is on the high road between Pickering and Kirkby-Moorside ; from which circumstance, in all probability it derives its name of Middle-town, or Middleton. It consists of one street, in which occur several good houses. The hall, the property of John Watson, E?q , of Pickering, and the residence of John Ac ; on, Esq., is a neat modern mansion built of brick.* The church is an ancient structure, but in good preservation ; the interior remarkably neat, and kept in a state of repair highly creditable to the vigilance of the church-wardens, and the parish- ioners. This church formerly belonged to the abbey of Kirkstal, near Leeds, as appears from the following carious extract from Burton : " On the 19 of Dec. A. D. 1456, William Boothe, archbishop of York, appropriated this church (anciently of the patronage of the lords Wake of Lydel,) to rhe ab- bey of Kirkstal ; and in recompense of the damages done to his cathedral church, reserved to himself and successors the annual pension of 1 , and to his dean and chapter 5s , payable by the said reli- gious, out of the fruits thereof, at P< ntecost and Martinma, by equal portions ; also 1. 16s. 4cU per annum, to be distributed amongst the poor of the parish, at Christmas and Easter. Moreover he ordained that there be one perpetual secular * Dr. Short, in his account of m inerai waters, notices a c halybeate spring near Middleton, SSI MIDDLETOtf. vicar in the church, presentable by the said abbot and convent ; the portion of endowment of which vicarage, shall be in this manner, viz , in a compe- tent mansion for the vicar's habitation, taken out of the rectory, and built the first time by the said religious : also the vicar shall receive yearly out of the abbot and convent's coffers, the sum of 10. 6s. Sd. in money quarterly, paid upon the high-altar of the church at Middleton ; and besides that 6s. 8d. more, for the charge and exhibition of bread, wine, and lights, necessary for the said high altar. And the said abbot and convent shall for ever bear and sustain the chancel, and all other burdens ordinary or extraordinary on the church incumbent, and the vicar shall bear nothing." Burton's Monasticon, p. 295. These two latter sums are still paid to the vicar, out of the lands attached to the rectory-house, an old building at the east end of the church-yard ; which has been occupied for a long period merely as a farm house. In forming a drain at the back of the church, during the year 1823, the workmen discovered near the foundation, a medal, in excellent preser- vation, representing on the obverse, the figure of St. John the Baptist bearing a cross, and the lamb before him, with a glory encircling its head ; the motto " Parate viam Domini," prepare ye the way of the Lord ; and within the circle formed by the motto 1737 309 : on the reverse 3 figures, the first leaning upon the cross, the second holding an infant to her bosom, the third resting upon the 2S5 anchor, and evidently representing Faith, Charity, and Hope, with the motto " Unifas in charitate non ficta," the union of true charity ; or in the words of St. Paul, it must be a charily which be- lieveth all things, hopeth all things, " and is kind," uniting piety to God with benevolence to man. By a conceit of the artist, the centre figure, chari- ty, is represented twice as large as those of Faith and Hope; obviously intending by it a visible illus- tration of the concluding verse of the xiii chapter of 1 of Corinthians, " Faith, Hope, Charity ; but the greatest of these is Charity." This medal has been presented by the Rev. C. Mackereth to the Philosophical Society at Whitby, whose learned secretary, (Mr. Young, author of the Hist, of Whitby,) in acknowledging its receipt, ob- serves, " This medal found at Middleton, has, I think, never been used as a coin j though there are coins of the knights of Malta, bearing the head of John the Baptist. It seems to be a religious medal similar to many that are in use amongst catholics, and has very likely been stiuck at Malta, where John the Baptist is particularly honoured. It is obviously modern, perhaps not above a century old, and was collected in 1737, for it has the date stamp- ed upon it, with its number in the series, 309." In the church-yard, and on the south side of the church, under a handsome slab of white marble, are interred the remains of the late William Mar- shall, Esq., of Pickering ; a gentleman well known l>y big agricultural researches, and the various and PICKERING. valuable treatises he has published on the " Rural Economy of Yorkshire," &c.* PICKERING. Pickering t is an ancient and wealthy town, having jurisdiction over several neighbouring vil- lages, called the honour of Pickering. It is built on the northern boundary of that fine valley known by the name of (he vale of Pickering Through this town the road passes from York to Whitby ; and from Richmond, Thirsk, York, &c., through Kirkby- Moorside, to Scarborough. It is situated in the wapentake of Pickering Lyth, 8 miles from Kirkby- Moorside, 9 from Malton, 19 from Scarborough, 21 from Whitby, 27 from York, and 226 from London ; having a population of 2746, including in its parish Godeland 335, Kingsthorpe 52, Marrishes 201, and Newton 212, collectively 555. This was formerly a place of great strength, in consequence of its castle ; and in substance is thus described by Camden " The town of Pickering is large, but is not compact. The greatest part of it containing the parish church and castle, is on the s. E. part of the brook running through the town, * The author having already extended his work so far beyond the limit originally proposed, is compelled to give but a brief sketch of Middleton, Thornton, &c. ; for each of which he had collected materials for a more extended article. 4- Pickering is compounded of Pickera, to pink, or pierce, and ing, a wet place, aad, probably, means % place besides waters. DICKERING. 287 and stands on a high slaty hill. The other part of the town is not so large as this. In the church I saw two or three tombs of the Brus' family;* one * The first of this family was Robert le Brus, or Bruis, a noble knight of Normandy ; who accompanied William the Conqueror into England, and was regarded by him after the battle of Hastings with no less than 34 lordships in the county of York ; of which the manor and Castle of Skelton was the capital of his barony. He died about the year 1100, leaving as his successor, his son Robert. Robert de Brus married for his first wife Agnes, daughter of Fulk Faganal, by whom he had issue a son, Adam, who was his successor in most of his English estates. His second wife was Agnes Annand, heiress of the lordship and vast estate of Annandale in Scotland; by whom he had issue two sons and a daugh- ter; the eldest of whom succeeded to the lordship of Annandale in right of his mother. The eldest branch of this illustrious family of Brus, viz. the lords of Skel- ton, became extinct in the male line in Peter de Brus, the last lord; who died without issue in the reign of Edward I. ; son of Peter de Brus and Helewise de Lancaster, leaving his four slaters his heirs ; of whom Margaret married Robert de Ros, or Fursan de Ros, of Helmsley ; Agnes Walter de Fauconberge ; Lucy, Mar- maduke de Thweng ; and Laderine, John de Bellow, (or Bella Aqua,) by whom she had two daughters ; Sibella, married to Milo de Stapleton, and Joan, to Aucker Fitz- Henry. Henry de Percy, ancestor of the earls of Northumber- land of that name, had in marriage with Isabella, daught- er of Adam, fourth lord of Skelton, the manor of Lokin- field, near Beverley, in Yorkshire; for which he and his heirs were to repair to Skelton castle every Christ- mas day, and lead the lady of the castle from her chamber to the chapel to mass, and thence to her chamber again; and after dining with her to depart. Arms : Or, a saltier ingrailed, gules, n chief per fess indented of the first and second. Bruce of Annaixiale. Robert de Brus. second lord of Skelion, had by his second wife, Agnes Annand, three children j the eldest of which (William,) succeeded, in 28$ PICKERING. with his wife, in a chapel, now a school room, on the south side of the choir, having a garland about his helmet : another in the chapel, under an arch on the north side of the body of the church ; where is a chantry bearing his name.* The castle stands on the brow of a hill at an end of the town, 'not far from the parish church ; and has for ages, with the town and lordship, belonged to the Lancaster fami- ly. Richard HI. lay some time at this, and some time at Scarborough castle. In the other part of the town, passing over a brook by a stone bridge of right of his mother, to the lordship of Annandale in Scotland. lie was succeeded by his son Robert. Robert de Brus, was ancestor to that Robert Bruce, who was competitor with Baliol for the crown of Scot- land ; which being decided against him, by the direction of Edward I. of England, he became so dissatisfied, that he could never be prevailed upon, either to give up his title, acknowledge Edward superior, or Baliol king : which Robcrtdying about 1259, was succeeded by Robert his eldest son, who it is well known, became afterwards king of Scotland, and was succeeded by his son David, who dying without issue, the crown of that kingdom fell to Robert, son of Walter Stewart, lord high steward of Scotland, by Margery sister to the said king David Bruce ; from which line the house of Stewart and the present royal family of England are derived. Other collateral branches of this family were Sir Bernard Bruce, who got the lands of Conuington in Huntingdon- shire, and Exton in Rutlandshire, which about the reign of Edward III. went in marriage with Anne, the sole heiress of this branch to Sir Hugh Wesenham; and from his family in like manner by an heiress to William Cot- ton, Esq. Also John de Bruce, ancestor to the earls of Elgin in Scotland, and Aylsbury in England. Arms; Or, a saltier and chief, gules. Banke's Extinct Baronetage, voL I. p. 44. * In this chapel, now the north aisle, is the monument of Sir William Bruce, the founder in the thirteenth cen tury. PICKERING* 289 five arches, I saw the ruins of a manor house called Brus-hall ;* and the manor house of the Lascelles at Keldhead. The park of the castle is more than 3 miles ; but is not well covered with wood." The liberty of Pickering extends to the bridge of Filey, by the sea-side, 6 miles from Scarborough to- wards Bridlington ; thence again by the shore to Scarborough castle, and on towards Whitby. To- wards the Wolds it gees towards Normanby bridge, and in another corner to the brows of Blackmoor j so that its extent is about 20 miles in length ; and though in some parts the liberty approaches to the Derwent by Ayton, yet in another place towards Malton the Derwent excludes it. Perhaps the reader may have a clearer view of this subject by attending to the following summary. It is bound- ed on the east by the sea, on the south by the river Derwent, or east riding, on the west by the wap en- take of Ryedale, and on the north by those of Langbarugh and Whitby strand. The wapentake and liberty are co-extensive. It is a mountainous district, and formerly had its forest, styled the li- berty or forest of Pickering Lyth. The castle of Pickering is a specimen of the re- * On the site of this mansion is Beck-Hall, built by the late Mr. Marshall, and now the property and resi- dence of William Wells, Esq., his heir. The Bruises had great property about Pickering, and also a seat here which by marriage cane to the Marshalls. Here was an hospital of St. Nicholas, now gone,' hut the chapel-close remains Cough's Camden, TO!. III. p. 325. Oo 290 PICKERINft. mains of feudal grandeur, here we see what has been, and stand astonished when we view this place once so strong and powerful now nearly demolished ; but it is dignified even in its ruins. It is well known that castles were built in this kingdom at a very early date ; but the greater part of them were erected after the Norman conquest. Willium,to awe his newly acquired subjects, began to erect castles all over the kingdom ; and as he had parcelled out the lands of those English gentle- men, (who held out against him, or left the country,) amongst his followers, they to protect themselves from the resentment of those so despoiled, built castles on their estates. The commotions in the kingdom in the following reigns, served to increase them ; every baron or leader of a party building a castle. At the end of the reign. of Stephen, the number of castles in this country, amounted to 1,115. As the feudal system gathered strength, those cas- tles became the heads of baronies ; each castle was a manor, and the owner the lord of it, and markets and fairs were ordered to be held there. The lords of these castles began to arrogate the royal power, not only within their fortified resi- dences, but in their environs also, exercising judi- cature both civil and criminal ; coining of money, and abitrarily seizing forage and provisions for the support of their garrisons, which they afterwards demanded as a right. At length their insolence and oppression grew to such a height, that accord- ing to William of Newburgh, there were in England as many kings, or rather tyrants, as lords of castles. PICKERING. From this statement it appears that all castles were not in the possession of the crown; and not only the lay barons, but even bishops had their fortress- es ; though it seems to have been contrary to the canons, from a plea made use of in a general coun- cil, in favour of king Stephen ; who had seized upon the strong castles of the bishops of Linroln and Salisbury. This prohibition was however, lit- tle regarded, as in the following reign many strong places were held and even defended by the ecclesi- astics. The licentious behaviour of the garrisons of these places becoming intolerable, it was enacted in the beginning of the reign of Henry II , that all castles built within a certain period should be de- molished. In this kingdom the astonishing number of 1100 fortified castles, were built between the year 1140, and 1154, and more than a thousand were standing in the beginning of the reign of Henry II., which weie nurseries of tumult, end sources of con- tention between the monarch and the barons. King Stephen permitted castles to be built for his own defence against his enemies ; but they were after- wards made use of by his nobles for their defence against their king. Stephen went into Normandy to secure his possessions in that country, which having done he returned to England ; where he had to struggle with fresh troubles. The lords in his absence resenting a breach of promise upon which they had admitted him to the crown, made use of their castles to oppose him ; but many of them returned to his interest, and joined him against David king of Scots. Though many of the castles 92 PICKERING. belonged to the barons, a great number were in the possession of the crown ; some built by differ- ent kings, and others possessed by forfeiture. King William erected castles at Lincoln, Nottingham, and Hastings. These castles belonging to the crown were defended by persons who held their estates by keeping guard in them. This mode was after- wards changed for annual rents called guard-rents. Such castles as were feudal property were guarded by mercenary soldiers, or the tenants of their owners. Those castles belonging to the crown, in latter times, were generally committed to the custody of some trusty person, styled governor, or constable. Sometimes also they were put into the possession of the sheriff of the county; who often converted them into prisons. Pickering castle was probably built after the conquest. The situations of the castles of the Anglo-Norman kings and barons were most commonly on eminences, and near rivers, situations on many accounts eligible. The site of one of those castles, which was frequently of great extent, and of an irregular figure, was surrounded by a deep and broad ditch, sometimes filled with water and sometimes dry. This ditch was called the foss. Before the great gate was an outwork called a barbican, or antimural ; which was a strong and high wall with turrets upon it, designed for the defence of the gate and draw 'bridge. On the inside of the ditch stood the wall of the castle, about 8 or 10 feet thick, and between 20 or 30 feet high ; with a parapet and embrasures called crennels on the top. On this wall at proper distances were square PICKERING. S03 towers, of two or three stories high ; which served for lodging some of the principal officers, for grana- ries, store-houses, and other necessary offices. On the top of this wall, and on the flat roof of these buildings, stood the defenders of the castle, when it was beseiged ; whence they discharged arrows, darts, and stones, on the beseigers. The great gate of the castle stood in the course of this wall, and was strongly fortified with towers on each side, and rooms over the passage, which were closed with thick folding doors of oak, often plated with iron, and having an iron portcullis let from above. With- in this outer wall was a large open space, or court, called in the largest and most perfect castles, the outer bayle or ballium, in which stood commonly a church or chapel. On the inside of this outer bayle was another ditch, wall, gate, and towers, inclosing the inner bayle or court, within which was built the chief tower or keep. This was a large square fab- ric, 4 or 5 stories high, having small windows in prodigiously thick walls, which render the apart- ments within dark and gloomy. This great tower was generally the palace of the prince, prelate, or baron, to whom the castle belonged ; and the resi- dence of the constable or governor. Under ground was the dungeon, consisting of dismal dark vaults, for the confinement of prisoners. In this building was the great hall, in which the owner displayed his hospitality, by entertaining his numerous friends and followers. The keep of the castle of Pickering is singularly situated, and peculiarly constructed : its formation 29t flCKEIUNG. is circular, which is the only one of that description in this district ; which, together with its being on a round and elevated mount, proves it to be on the early Norman plan. In the western wall of the a- rea of the castle is a curious saxon arch, in a place R here there has been a postern gate : this also in- dicates the antiquity of the building. It has been conjectured that the castle was erected by William Rufus, or his successor, Henry I, ; for Pickering was one of those manors which the Conqueror re- tained in his own hands ; and it remained in the possession of the crown for many ages : it was crown property when Henry I. granted his charter for founding the hermitage in Godeland : and as a charter of king John, granted to the nuns of Wyke- ham, was dated at Pickering, Feb. 1, 1201, the cas- tle appears to have been erected prior to his reign, and to have been occasionally a royal residence.* In the time of Edward the confessor, Pickering was the lordship of Morcar, earl of Northumberland. Henry III., in the 33 year of his reign, constituted William lord D'Acre, sheriff of Yorkshire, and as- signed to him the custody of Pickering castle : it was 7 years afterwards committed to the care of William Latimer, after which that king gave it with the lordship to his son Edmund; and accordingly at his death it was reckoned amongst the other estates of that prince, by the names of the manor, castle, and forests, of Pickering. He obtained in the 19 of Edward I., a charter for a fair every year, * History of Whitby. DICKERING. 295 on the eve-day and morrow after the exaltation of the holy cross, at his manor of Pickering ; and left it so privileged to his son and heir, Thomas, earl of Lancaster. He was the leader of those nobles, who in the reign of Edward II. entered into a confede- racy against Piers deGaveston, the favourite of that prince, whom they seized and put to death ; and likewise opposing in the same manner the Spencers, was by the king's forces defeated and taken at Ro- roughbridge, in this county, and afterwards behead- ed at Pontefract, Those estates being thus forfeited came into the possession of the king; and Henry Percy, earl of Northumberland, was made gover- nor of this castle : but king Edward being deposed, Henry, brother and heir to the above Thomas, earl of Lancaster, obtained an act of parliament revers- ing his brother's attainder, and thereupon reposs- essing all his estates and honours. At his death he bequeathed them to his son Henry, who left only two daughters, Maud and Blanch. On the division of his estates, this castle and manor fell to the lat- ter, then wife of John of Gaunt, earl of Richmond, and afterwards, in right of his wife, duke of Lancas- ter ; and was by Henry Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry VI., attached to the crown, and probably annexed by him to the duchy of Lancaster, of which it still forms a part. This castle was in the possession of the crown in the reign of Elizabeth. In Peck's Desiderata it is mentioned amongst the royal castles, and has the following officers, steward of the lordship, con- stable of the castle, and master of the game within 996 PICKERING. the said lordship for 10- rider of the forest for 3. The reader may form a correct idea by the preceding description of fortified castles in ge- neral, this having been one of that sort, and when it was necessary defended in that manner. Till lately an old chapel or chantry used as the mano- rial court house was a great object of curiosity ; but it has been lately modernized. This castle was refounded or rebuilt in 1247. A very strong tower at the north east extremity of the castle wall, has a dungeon in the lower part of it, This tower ap. pears to have communicated with the keep by a covert way running up behind the wall. On the east is a beautiful tower, probably that which Le land calls Rosamond's tower;* and there is another beyond the great gate, called the mill tower. These towers are excellently built, and their upper sto- ries neatly ornamented. Other towers were stand- ing in Leland's time, one of which must have been * The castle standeth at an end of the town not far from the parish church, on the brow of the hill under which the brook runneth. In the first court of it are four towers, of which one is called Rosamond's tower In the inner court are also four towers, of which the keep is one. The castle walls and towers are neat. The lodgings of the inner court are of timber, but in ruins. In this court is a chapel, and a chantry priest. The cas- tle, with the town and lordship, has long belonged to the Lancaster family : but who built the castle, or who was the owner of it before the Lancasters, I could not learn. The castle walls seem not old. I heard say Richard III. lay some time at Pickering castle, and some time at Scarborough castle. The park by the castle side is more than seven miles, but is not well wooded. LELAND. It is thought the park was not more than three miles* PICKERING." 297 at the other extremity of the cross wall : this might have been demolished by the parliament forces in the civil wars ; who made a large breach in the walls on the west side of the fortress. After the castle was taken, great quantities of parchment, several of which had gilt letters on them, were scattered about the street called Castle-gate, and picked up by the children, who were attracted by the glittering leaves. Part of the ground within, the castle enclosure was in 1771 converted into a garden. The following is a curious paper containing the pedigree of Sir George Fothergill, once lord of Pickering ; and if the castle was not built by Wil- liam llufus, or Henry I., it might have been erect- ed by this family. The original paper is in the possession of Mr Thomas Bointon, solicitor, Pick- ering. " The pedigree of Sir George Fothergill of Ross ; endale, or Ravensdale, a norman born, and general to duke William, as in the records of the tower it is recorded. " Duke William, the Conqueror, at his first coming, found some counties which for 7 or 8 years withstood him, as did the city of York, and all the north riding of Yorkshire ; so that by no means he could conquer the city of York. Whereupon the king himself upon St. Thomas day laid seige to the city of York, yet he could by no means or policy conquer it ; and coming to a town 2 miles from York, called Skelton, the same St. Thomas day, the king met with two friars at Skelton aforesaid, and 29S PICKERING. enquiring where they dwelt, they said at a poor priory of St. Peter's, and had been to get some food for their fellow friars against Christmas. The one of them had a great cake on his breast, and another on his back, and a shoulder of mutton in his hand. The other had a bottle of ale, and a wallet full of beef and mutton : and the king and Sir George Fothergill did confer with these two friars ; and did promise them large monies and gifts if they would let them into their priory or monastery, and gave them also money in hand. So they did condescend to let them in at a postern gate, the Conqueror promising he would make their priory anew, and give them also great revenues, which he did perform. So in con- clusion, the king that night sent for all his army to come to meet him at York- So the king and Sir George Fo'hergill, his general of the field, took the city that night by treason. It was then guarded by a worthy stout captain, called Robert de Clifford, who kept the tower yet called by the name of Clif- ford tower ; whom king William did afterwards make a lord, and gave him Skipton castle ; and the king knighted the 4 magistrates that then governed the city ; whose names were Howgate, Ta!but,(who was afterwards made lord Talbut,) Lascells, and Everingham. The arms of the city at that day were a kid, cross gules, in a field argent ; but the king charged the cross with five lions passant, in regard of those five worthy captains and magistrates who governed the city so well ; and he made also Robert de Clifford chief captain of the city, (so are ^11 his posterity to this day,) and the other four to PICKERING] aid him in council, and to keep the city for him. And the kin* did build two new castles, and double moated them about ; for the strengthening of the city ; and then he bid the magistrates ask what they would and he would give it them ; and they desired that they might have every St. Thomas day a friar of the priory of St. Peter, to ride on a horse up and down the streets in York, \v ith the tail in one hand, and a shoulder of mutton in the other, with his face painted like a fool, and a cake upon his back, and another upon his breast ; and the boys of the city crying youle ! youle ! and the officers of the city to ride with him, and proclaim that the city was as that day betrayed by the friars ; which cus- tom continues unto this day. " This Sir George Fothergill was made land-ser- jeant, who was one of the greatest commanders in the land, and a great commander in those days. He married Isabel, sole daughter and heiress of Willi- am de Lucy, of Folton, and had by her in her right, the manors following: Granton, Hovingham, Friton, Slingsby castle, Pickering, Burniston, Sedbury, Garscall, with other lands. He had issue by Isabel his wife, five sons : his eldest son was lord marshal of England ; his third son was chief justice of Eng- land ; and his fourth son was bishop of Winchester, dean of Windsor, provost of Eton college, chancel- lor of York, and deviser of the English and Norman laws ; and principal to king William Rufu^, and chief man about him. He built the abbey of Roche, and gave the abbey of St. Mary's in York two lord- ships, Chadwell in Cumberland, and Middleton* 300 PICKERING. tyers in Yorkshire. He was a great statesman, and was buried in St. Mary's, in York. His first son was the first justice of Ayre, of all the king's forest? park, and chaces, in England ; with twenty marks fee for the same, to him and his heirs for ever. Also he was captain of Dover castle in Kent. " in the time of Henry I., there were two lord treasurers in England ; William de Fothergill of Havenstonedale, and Henry de Boyton of Doncas- ter castle. " In the reign of king John, Hugh Fothergill was lord chancellor of England. He had a son that was called William de Fothergill, who was cardinal for England. When king John was interdicted by the pope, and all his lands, for a certain time, for de- facing God's churches ; this cardinal was sent by the pope, to see the king do his penance at Canter- bury, which was performed by whipping his naked body, and enjoined to build the churches again, which he had pulled down. King John made suit to the pope to have all the wardships of all the no- bility and gentry of England, for seven years ; but before the expiration of those years the king died. This was the first beginning of the court of wards and liveries, which continuethyet. " In the reign of Edward II , one Anthony Fother- gill was lord of Lay ton, master of the king's house, lord of the privy seal, and privy chancellor to the king's majesty. "In the reign of Richard II., one Hugh de Fother- gill was lord of west Easefield castle, in Yorkshire, supreme lord treasurer of England, who married PICKERINS, 301 the daughter and heiress of lord Spring, of Denton, in the county palatine of Durham ; who lieth bu. ried there. He had three sons and two daughters. " In the reign of Henry I. was a Bernard Fother- gill, of Stanington, who married Jane, the daughter of William Musgrave, lord of Hartley castle, at Wall, or Advall, in the county of Westmoreland ; and had issue four sons. " In the reign of Edward IV., one Giles Fother- gill married Alice, the daughter of Godfrey Scroop, of Upsland castle, in Yorkshire ; and had issue by her three sons and five daughters ; and licth buried in the monastery of St. Catharine, and was one of the founders thereof. " In the reign of Richard III., there was one John de Fothergill, who married Eliza, one of the daughters of lord de Herriugton, in the county of Northampton ; and had issue by her three sons and three daughters. He was killed at Bosworth field, in the battle between Henry VII. and king Richard. " In the time of Henry VII., one William de Fothergill was land-serjeant of Westmoreland, and lord of Bowes castle ; who took prisoner the king of Scots, herald at arms, and 8 noblemen of Scotland, at Flodden field. " At Brome road, Richard de Fothergill took prisoner Hugo de Burgo, a Frenchman ; earl Doug- las, lord Mansfield, and marquis Huntley's son, with divers other noblemen of Scotland ; and delivered them to Henry Piercy, of Egremont castle ; who carried them to York. Thomas Howard then being general of the field, and Richard de Fothergill then 30 PICKERING. land-serjeant of Westmoreland, and warden of the west marshes toward Castle-town, and captain of Cowy castle. <{ At the field of Solway-moss were Sir Thomas Wharton, warden of the middle marshes, and Sir Ralph Wrye, warden of the west marshes ; and Sir George Fothergill won the field that day, and took prisoners that day Sir William Wood, Sir Charles Ramsden, Sir Giles Hampton, Sir William and Sir Thomas Warpinfield, or Winfield, and Sir David Temple, with many others. The king, in cosidera- tion of the service done to the crown, created Thomas Wharton lord Wharton and baron of Hea- ley ; also he created Sir Ralph Wrye lord Wrye and baron of Wetton ; and he created Sir George Fothergill baron of Brough under Stainmore, in the county of Westmoreland, and gave him the nunnery of Minkillery, to him and his heirs for ever; and also the lordships of Bulmer and Penistow, in the county of York. The said Sir George Fothergill married the daughter of Henry Brand, of Newcas- tle-upon-Tyne, and had issue by her four sons and one daughter : and the king gave also all the ran- som f the prisoners to my lord Wharton, lord Wrye, and Sir George Fothergill, knight and lands- grave of Westmoreland. " At the same battle of Sol way moss, William Fothergill of Ravenstonedale, standard-bearer to king Henry VIII., took Ferdinando Dent, lord of Largoss, prisoner, and brought him into England, which lord's ancestors were English before, and lords of the manors of Dent and Sedbury. King PICKERING. 303 Henry, for his good service done to the country, made him a knight, and gave him the ransom of all his prisoners. This same Sir William Fother- gill married the daughter and sole heiress of the said Ferdinando Dent ; whose issue came after to be lord of Dent and Sedber, or Sedbury, by the gift of Henry VIII. The blazoning of this coat of arms was a stag's head couped, or, a bordure en- grailed or, field vert. This coat of arms is similar to the arms of the late colonel Fothergill, of Kings- thorpe, near Pickering." The church is a large, neat, and commodious building, with a lofty spire : it is dedicated to St. Peter ; and is principally in the gothic or old Eng- lish style, having a chancel, transept, nave, and north and south aisles. The living is a vicarage, in the patronage of the dean of York, of which the Rev. John Ponsonby is the incumbent. In this building is a neat finger-organ. In the south wall of the chancel are three stalls arched over, the ar- ches of which are embossed with heads and orna- mented with figures. In the same wall is a piscina, and near the door of the south entrance is a stone bason, a common appendage to ancient churches ; and its existence in this edifice fixes its date prior to the reformation. In the north aisle is the tomb of Sir William Bruce,* as before described. IB the * According to the account of Camden, there was a chantry on the north side of the body of the church, bearing his name ; of which he in the thirteenth century was the founder. North aisles were often chantry chapels founded by persons of substance residing in the parishes, who endowed them with houses and land for 304- PICKERING. chancel is a mutilated figure, supposed to be a monument of one the Lascells, formerly residing at Keld-hcad. Near the west wall under the roof behind the organ, are the initials I. H. C , inter, sected by an horizontal line, to shew that they are an abbreviation. This shews that the letters LH.C. are an abbreviation of the Greek IHCOYC, rather than of the Latin Jesus hominum salvator. Histo- ry of Thirsk, p. 95. The chapel on the south of the chancel, descri- bed by Leland as having monuments in it of one of the Bruces and his wife, is now used as a school- room, and is surmounted with a bell which may be seen on the outside of the building. Besides the church here is a neat chapel belonging to dissenters of the Independent denomination, of which the Rev. Gabriel Croft is the minister. Also a chapel belonging to the Methodist connexion ; and ano- ther appropriated to the worship of the society of Friends. Here is a subscription library ; also an. en dowed free school, of which the Rev. W. Putsey is master, and a court for the recovery of debts and the trial of actions, when the matter in disput e does not exceed 40s. The fairs are the Monday before Feb. 14th, and the Monday before May, 13th, and the Mon- day before Sep. 25th, and the Monday before Nov. 23rd, for horned cattle, horses, sheep and pigs. the maintenance of one or more priests to sing masses at the altars of some favourite saints for the souls of the founders. They were also burial places for the found- ers and their families. After the reformation they were appropriated to public use, being furnished with pews like the rest of the church* HERMITAGE IN GODELAND. 305 The market is held on monday. At this town there is another evidence of the existence of subterranean rivers in the li UK stone rock, the Cost arises at Keld-head in an aimzitig volume, so as to sanction a conjecture that 500 gal- lons of water are thrown up by it in a minute. THE HERMITAGE IN GODELAND, OR GOODLAND. The hermitage in Godeland was a cell to Whitby abbey. It was, according to Burton, granted by Henry I. to one Osmond, a priest, and a few bre. thren, who took up their habitation there ; but it was soon after transferred to Wliit'oy ; Osmond and his brethren adopting the rules of St. Benedict, and putting themselves under the care of the abbot. This hermitage, which was called St. Mary's, was endowed by king Henry with one carucate of iaud, to which William Bore added one toft, in Lockton. Mr. Young observes that this hermitage seems to have been little frequented, for some time previous to the dissolution ; a remark that is applicable to hermitages in general ; as the monks of that age preferred the luxuries of the convent to the sweets of retirement. The place of worship, however, was retained as a chapel, and U still in use The origi- nal hermitage was probably nbove a mile N. E. of the present Godeland chapel, at a place called the Abbot's House, belonging to Messrs. Thomas Qq 305 ROSEDALE PRIORY* and Peter Harwood. In 1460, the abbot and con- vent of Whitby had some land let in Godeland, at 10s. rent. The chapel has now no connexion with Wliitby church : yet the common right of pastur- age in Allen tofts, in Godeland, still belongs to the inhabitants of Sneaton, Ugglebarnby, Hawsker, and Stainsacre ; for which they pay yearly 2s. 4d. of gist-money, though they never make use of their privilege. ROSEDALE PRIORY. Rosedale is in two parishes ; the west side of it is in the parish of Lestingham, and the east in the parish of Middleton. It is situate 7 miles N. N. E. of Kirkby-Moorside, containing a population of 518. Jt is intersected by the road to Whitby, by way of Egton, Whitby being in that direction, only 21 miles; whereas by way of Pickering it is 29. The former road is nearly as good as the latter ; but the hills which form the dale, are so long and steep, that it is inconvenient that way for carriages; though not particularly so for foot passengers, or horses. There are here near the Whitby road the remains of a priory, founded by Robert, son of Nicholas de Stuteville, about the year 1190, for nuns of the benedictine order.* Their property lay chiefly in Rosedale, and near Cropton, Cawthorn, [Newton, Lockton, and Pickering. Alan Malekake of Lockton, gave to this place various bequests, uch as pasturage for 200 sheep in Lockton, a yoke * Dugdale's Monasticon Anglicanum, p. 507. ROSEDALE PRIORY. 30? of oxen, 2 horses, 10 cows, and one bull ; 10 sows, and one boar, with their young of one year old. Also all his land from Abunescard to Nordranc, that is nearer Liteldale in Ketelthorp, and all his meadow, extending inlengthwfrom Pickering water, to the water of Costa, with pasture for 200 sheep in the pasture belonging to Lockton and Kejlel- thorp. One acre of land in Kotilacroft, to Burns- carlit, and with liberty of having timber, and other necessaries in the wood of Stay ndale to repair his bucary. Besides the above they had also a few more distant possessions, and the patronage of Thorpenhow church, in the diocese of Carlisle. Burton says, at the dissolution, a prioress, and about eight or nine religious, belonged to this house ;f whose yearly income was valued 2'> Henry VI 11., at 41. 13s. 8d In 30 Henry VIII., this site was given, to Ralph Nevill, earl of Westmoreland, with the manor of Keldholm, to be held in military ser- vice* The church, or chapel, was dedicated to Saint Lawrence, and Saint Mary. It is still used as a parochial place of worship. The square of the cloisters on the south side of the [church is nearly entire ; the building having been converted into dwelling-houses, barns, &c. In this square on the east side, are some tombstones of the nuns. The r t Prioresses who belonged to this priory, whose names are ascertained, are Marca de Ross ; Joan de Pykering, who occurred in 1310; Isabella Whytebyf; Elizabeth de Kirkby-Moorside, 1336 ; iVlargaret'Chani- berlin; Joan Brandley, 1468; Margaret Hipon ; Joan Baddensly, 1505; Maud Felton, 1521j and Mary Marshall, 1527. Burton's Monasticon. 308 wHITBTi only one legible is sister Catharine Meger. On a lintel, in the end of one of the offices on the east, is this inscription : ' Omnia Vanitas,' all is vanity. These words originally intended to remind the nuns of the vanity of this world, now stand as an appropriate motto over the ruins of monastic gran- deur. Picture of Whitby, p. 273. WHITBY. After the publication of Mr. Young's excellent history of this place, it is not necessary that I should write much respecting it ; and were it not for the probability that many of my readers may not be in possession of that work, I should pass over it in silence : but conceiving that some of them may not have it, I have furnished them with a brief sketch of the history of this important place; derived prin- cipally from Burton's Monasticon, and Cam den's Brittania. Whitby is situaieu in the liberty of Whitby strand, S2 miles from Guisborough, 20 from Scarborough, 31 from Stokesley, and 47 from York; in 54 deg. 29 min. 24 sec., west longitude. After the Saxons had subdued the Britons, and established themselves in this part of the island, (called from the Angles, one of tho se Saxon nations, England, under different kings ) they had frequent quarrels and wars with each other This was the case with the kingdom of Mercia; which contained the midland part of this island, and that of North* uinberland, bordering upon it on the north* WHITBT. 309 Penda, the pagan king of Mercia, who began his reign in 635, was particularly inveterate against the Northumbrians, and made frequent inroads in- to their part of the country; being hurried on by Ethelhere, king of the East Angles, particularly af- ter the death of Oswald ; who was slain on the 6 of August, 645 Oswe, or Oswy, brother and successor of Oswald, finding himself unable to stand against Penda, strove to pacify him by presents, but without effect, and the last refuge to which he had recourse was prayer; and he vowed, if he came off conqueror, to found a monastery, and to devote his only daughter, then scarcely a year old, to the perpetual service of God in it. They came to an engagement ; the Mercian ar- my was routed, and Penda, Ethelbert, and most of the chief nobles, were killed. This battle was fought Nov. 15, 655, near the river Air, not far from Seacroft, a village about three miles from Leeds. Oswy, after having returned thanks to God, im- mediately set about the performance of his vow ; granting a place, then called Streanshalh,* now Whitby, to St. Hilda, which he built and endowed for monks and nuns of the benedictine order. This lady, St. Hilda, was niece to Edwin, the first chris- tian king of the Northumbrians, and together with * Streanshalh signifies, according to Bede, the bay of the watchtower. This place was afterwards called Priestby, or the habitation of priests ; then Hwytby ; next Whiteby, (probably from the colour of the houses,) aad now Whitby. 310 WHITBY. him converted to tlie Christian religion, and bap- tised by Paulinas, first archbishop of York. St. Hilda died in 685, aged 66. The building of this monastery wa& begun in 657, and though founded, and dedicated to St. Peter, and endowed by Oswy, king of Northumberland, yet the honour of having so done is generally given to St. Hilda, the first prioress of it. This religious heuse continued to flourish till about 867, when the Danes landed in Dunus Sinus, now Dunsley bay, two miles west of Whitby, and destroyed it ; upon which the community was dis- persed. John, the abbot, fled with the relics of St. Hilda to (} las ton bury ; and the building lay in ruins till a little time after the conquest, by William, duke of Normandy, who gave a large tract of land in this country to Hugh, first earl of Chester; and he granted most of it to William de Percy, ancestor of the earls of Northumberland, vv ho soon began to re-edify the building, and restored the priory, de- dicating it anew, to God, to St. Peter, and St. Hil- da, and placed in it monks of the Benedictine order, from the abbey of Evesham, in Worcestershire, under the government of Reinfred, with the title of prior, and granted to them this town arid lordship of Whitby, with a great tract of land in the neigh bourhood, amounting to 720 acres ; this remained a priory till the reign of Henry I,, when it was ad- vanced to be an abbey. Henry the second gave to this abbey the church of All Saint's in Fishergate, within the city of York; and its revenues were immense. There were 29 WHITBT. 311 priors and abbots at Whitby ; Reinfred de Eves- ham, and the last was Henry Davell, who surrender- ed the convent ; and the deed waa enrolled 14: of December, 1540, 31 of Henry VIII. The revenues, according to Speed, amounted to 505. 9s. Id. ; and according to Dugdale, 437. 2s. 6d. The difference is usually accounted for by supposing that the former gives the gross rent, and the latter only the nett income. At the dissolution, the site of Whitby abbey, the manor of Whitby, and several parcels of the abbey lands, were let for 21 years, to Richard Cholmley, Esq., afterwards Sir Richard Cholmley. Before the expiration of this lease, the premises were bought of the king, by John, earl of Warwick, in 1550 ; and from him by Sir Edward Yorke, in 1551, of whom they were purchased by Sir Richard Cholmley, the lessee, July 2, J555. They have remained ever since in the possession of the Cholm- ley family ; together with various rights and privi- leges in Whitby and Whitby strand ; which had been enjoyed by the priors and abbots of Whitby. Camdon, in his Brittania, speaking of St. Hilda, amongst other things, says, (referring to the ammo- nites or snake-stones,) report ascribes them to the prayers of St. Hilda, as if changed by her. It it said that in the time of St. Hilda, this place and its neighbourhood was over-run by serpents : these, by the prayers of St. Hilda, were deprived of their heads and turned into stone. This, however had its origin in the ignorance and superstition of the times. 312 1 -**, jj Camden gays likewise that to her family also they ascribe it, that the wild geese, which in win- ter resort in flocks to the pools and rivers in the south parts where frost has not reached, in their passage over certain fields hereabouts, suddenly drop down, to the astonishment of all ; but he as- cribed to this natural causes. The ruins of this once beautiful and flourishing monastery, stand on an high cliff, is. E. of the town, and are seen at a great distance in the environs of the place. The parish church is situated not far from it ; and the ascent to it and the ruin* of the abbey is by a flght of 200 steps. On the south of the abbey is the mansion of the Cholmleys, built principally with materials from the abbey. The town of Whitby has lately made a rapid in- crease in population and wealth. So late as the year 1540, it did not consist of more than from 20 to 60 houses, with a population not exceeding 200. At that time it is probable there was not a single chimney in the town, excepting that belonging to the abbey. The common way then in towns and cities being to have a hearth in the middle of the room, on which was made the fire ; the smoke as- cending and passing through a large hole at the top of the building. It does not appear that du- ring the long reign of Elizabeth there was a single vessel deserving the name of a ship, belonging to this port ; but the discovery of the alum mines, at the close of that reign, raised Whitby from its ob WHITBT. fcurity, and by opening a channel of commerce ad- vanced the town to a degree of maritime impor- tance. . The successful progress of the alum works, established by Mr. Chaloner of Guisborough, ex- cited a spirit of emulation, and works of a similar kind were erected in 1615, near Sandsend within three miles of Whitby. These speculations opened two branches of trade at the port of Whitby ; one for supplying the works with coal, and the other for conveying the alum to distant parts. After this ship building was commenced. Up to the year 163, the piers was constructed of wood, with a few loose stones put in the framing. In that year the stone piers began to be built, through the influence of Sir Hugh Cholmley. For the support of the piers there is paid a duty of a half-penny per chaldron on all coals shipped at Newcastle, or its dependences, ex- cept in Yarmouth vessels, and the sum raised by this duty, together with the duties levied at Whit- by, on salt, grain, and foreign goods landed here, and on butter, and fish shipped hence, amounted to 2000. a year From the funds thus provided the harbour has been improved, and an east pier built, eince the year 1702; which extending 115ft. into the sea, protects the town from the fury of the German ocean. When the west pier was lengthened in 1734-, its circular termination was formed into a battery with embrasures for five pieces of cannon, which have since been increased to six ; and since the erection of the quay, a battery which before exist- ed near the Scotch-head, has been strongly rebuilt in the form of a crescent, with a small tower at eacl Ei 314 WHITBT. anglp, and is furnished with 8 eighteen pounders. In 1629, it is probable that the aggregate burden of all the vessels belonging to this port did not exceed 500 tons. In 1700, the vessels had increased to 113, but their tonnage did not exceed 6000 tons ; and the number of vessels may now safely be stated at 300, and their burdens at 52,000 tons. The ex- ports of Whitby consist principally of alum, with oil and dried fish The imports comprehend tim- ber, deals, hemp, fl^x. and ashes. The whale fisher? is a source of great wealth and employment toHhis town. The first ship sent from Whitby to Greenland, was fitted out in 1753, by a club established for the purpose : but little good accrued till the year 1772. Since that time its benefits have been sensibly felt ; and the number of whalers sent hence to Greenland and David's Straits has been considerable. The limits of the jurisdiction of Whitby comprise about 40 miles of coast, extending from Huntcliff fort, contiguous to the Tees, and on the opposite extremity to within a mile of Scarborough castle. The market-day here is on Saturday, on which a great deal of business is transacted. Here are two annual fairs ; the one commences on the 25 of August, St. Hilda's day, and the other on Martin- mas day ; each lasting three days. The alum works, the stable trade of Whitby eo Dprehenri six establishments, employ ing upwards o 600 work people. In 1595 the art of alum ma* king was introduced into this neighbourhood. Sir Thomas Cuiiloner, one of the ancestors of the M. r- WHITBV, for the city of York, on his travels in T'a^y, visited the alum works of the pope ; and finding that the rock from which the alum was made was the same as that produced by his own estate at Guisborough in Yorkshire, he engaged a number of ihe pope's workmen to accompany him to England ; and con- veyed them on board the vessel in which they em- barked, in hogsheads; and with their assistance begun his alu.n work at Guisborougii ; and soon became a most formidable rival to the traders of the Vatican : in consequence of which the pope is said to have excommunicated, not only Sir Thomas Chaloner, but also all the other persons engaged in this manufacture. Grose's Antiquities, vol. I. p. 10 7. But profit triumphed over fear : other alum works were commenced, and alum was soon reduced to half the price for which it was sold in the Italian works. The alum works on the Yorkshire coast are the principal establishments of the kind in England. Lord Dundas, Lord Mulgrave, and others carry them on. The parish church of Whitby has already been named, as being approached by 200 steps. The liv- ing is a perpetual curacy, in the paironge of the Archbishop of York, and the Rev James Andrews is the incumbent, there is also a chapel of ease in Baxtergate, built in 1778. Besu es the places of worship belonging to the established church, here are 8 others, belonging to different sects ; - Three Methodist ; two Presbyterian j one indepenuent j THORNTON. one Catholic ; and one belonging to the Friends, or Quakers. Here are a variety of charitable institutions, which might be expected in a place in which the people are so hospitable and kind. In 1811, the number of inhabitants, including Kuswarp, was 8,967 : in 1821 they were estimated at 10,615, At Ly the, near Whitby, is Mulgrave Castle, tho splendid mansion of the lit. Hon. Earl Mulgrave. This magnificent building was erected by the duch- ess of Buckingham, but has been greatly enlarged and improved by the present earl Malgrave and his predecessor. It stands in a commanding situation, accompanied with woods and pleasure grounds, ex* tensive and beautiful. Near this mansion is the old castle of Mulgrave, erected by the ancient and pow- erful family of the Mauleys, supposed to have been founded in the Saxon if not in the Roman period. The ruins of the keep, some of the towers, and sev- eral parts of the walls, remain ; with vestiges of the moat and draw-bridge. THORNTON. Thornton,* or Thornton in the dale, a parish * Torentun, or Thornton, (from tome a tower, thorn, or proper name and tun town), was amongst the lands retained at the conquest in the king's own hands* Manors. " In Torentum, (Thornton) Torbrand, tl Gospatric, and Tor, had three carucates to be taxed* ' Land to two ploughs." The king also retained the adjoining parish of Ellerburne. THOHNTON. 31 / town in the wapentake of Pickering Lythe 2 miles from Pickering, 9 from Malton, 16 from Scarbro,* and 27 from York. The village stands in two parishes, Thornton and Ellerburne, and contains a collective population of 1282 inhabitants; viz. in the township of Thorn- ton 879 and Thornton cum Farmanby, in the parish of Ellerburne, 403. The church is a rectory dedicated to All Saints, in the deanery of Ryedale, value in the kings books 20, of which Richard Hill Esq., of Thorn- ton is patron, the Rev. John Hill Webb A. M. re- ctor, and the Rev. Richard Brown Scholefield, curate. The Village. The ancient cross which still re- mains denotes this village to have been a market town 9 and its numerous population and great ex- tent ; being nearly a mile from the extreme points of the two main streets, of which it consists; render it deserving of that distinction at the present, day. It is beautifully situated at the termination of the Manor. u In Elreburne" (Ellerburn) from Ellera, " the Eller or alder-tree with which its banks abound, " and burn a rivulet " Gospatric had three exgangs of ** land to be taxed.'* Bawdwen's Domesday, p. 21. Thornton and Ellerburne were sokes attached to Pickering. The abbey of Rieralx, near Helmsley, had possessions here, appears as from Burton. " Thorneton in Pickering t lythe, Asketinson of Thorald de Pickering, gave a toft ** here near to the mill, with six acres of land in the *' same township, in Lange-waudell ; and in the super* ii ior part oi florewell." Burton's Menasticen. p. 363. THORNTON. vale of Ellerburne, and intersected by a fine stream of water, which together with the grounds attached to the family mansion ; the plantations which adorn the neighbouring vale, its neat row of hospitals, grammar schools, parish church, and several well built houses, and the numerous and varied orchards and gardens with which it is interspersed form, when viewed from the neighbouring hills, with the white line of road to Malton, intersecting the marshes like a silver thread, and the Wold hills in the distance, a fine and justly admired land- scape. Thornton possesses great natural capabili- ties of situation ; which, from the present spirit of improvement evinced in its decoration, and the proposed addition of a handsome bridge across the stream, and the removal of several unsightly ap- pendages, promise to render it one of the most beautiful villages in Yorkshire. Its inhabitants are principally small farmers ; though a corn mill, tan- nery, and paper mill, afford employment to a small portion of the superabundant population, One of thofre admirable institutions, which under proper and well enforced regulations promise such extensive advantages to the community at large,- 1 mean the friendly societies, is established in this village, and is in a very flourishing state ; the num- ber of members exceeding 400, and the fund accu inulatetl amounting to near ^4,000. Another benevolent institution whose advantages are not generally known, has also been formed at this village, by several spirited individuals, undei the denomination of the village cow club. Its obje- i THORNTON-,' 3H) is to re-purchase cows for such of the poor as have been deprived of them through accident or disease; and the funds are supported by annual subscriptions from the poor themselves, aided by the friendly contributions of various honorary members, When the sum subscribed reaches *70., the subscription* aease until the fund is reduced below that sum, by any new advances that have been made. The limits of the present work do not admit of my entering in- to further details ; but such of my readers as feel an interest in the gradual improvement and ameliora- tion of the condition of the poor, are referred to an essay on this subject by the present learned Arch- deacon of Cleveland, the Rev. Francis Wrangham, who has not considered it beneath the dignity of his station to unbend from severer studies, to the discussion of topics of a more homely but not less useful description. The church is an ancient structure, placed in at fine and commanding situation, towards the east end of the village ; and might, with a different arrange- ment of the pews, and several minor alterations and improvements, be rendered both handsome and commodious. Several monuments occur in the chancel, which though worthy of a more detailed account, I must content myself with briefly noticing. In a recess under an arch in the north wall of the chancel, there is a stone figure in a recumbent posture, which has been very generally attributed to Sir Richard Chomley ; who is well known to have been buried in the chancel of ihis church. The drapery however, as well as the general contour THORNTON. and feminine appearance of the figure does not war- rant that conclusion, but favour the supposition that it was intended rather to represent the beautiful lady Catharine Cliomley, or one of her predecessors, herself being buried at Whitby, than her husband Sir Richard," the great black knight of the north ;*" unless we suppose the artist to have had strange notions of giant limbs, martial beauty, and military attire. On the south side of the chancel is a neat tablet of white marble, in memory of Ann, the wife of the Rev. John Webb, who died 22 of Nov., 1812, ae. 52. There are other monuments in the chancel to the memory of John Hill, and Richard Johnson Hill, Esqrs. ; the latter of whom was cut off in the prime of life, in 1793, at the early age of 32 : and in the * Sir Richard Chomley, who usually resided at Rox- by, near Thornton, had so much enlarged his possessions in Yorkshire, that he was nearly upon an equality with the first nobility. He loved pomp, and generally had 50 or 60 servants in attendance; nor would he ever go to London without a retinue of 30 or 40 men. He was bred a soldier, and delighted much in feats of war, be- ing tall in stature and strongly made. His hair and eyes black, and his complexion so swarthy, that he was called " the great Black Knight of the north." His se- cond wife was lady Catherine Clifford, one of the most celebrated beauties of the age in which she lived; and Henry VIII , during the life of her first husband, Lord Scrope, having heard much of her charms, desired him to bring her to court, which he declined. She was a woman of singular prudence and virtue, and lived hap- pily with Sir diehard until the time of his death, which happened at Roxby, A. D. 1 578, in the 64th year of his age. He was buried in Thornton church, in which there is an ancient monument, with a recumbent figure supposed to be his. IlindcrweU's Scarborough, p. 344* THORNTON.' 321 floor of the chancel, on a curious old stone, an in* scription to the memory of Mr. John Porter, late of London, nier hunt, who died 16S6, Jn the middle aisle, near the reading desk, is a monument raised to the memory of Thomas Mason, B. D. who was interred, Nov. 10, 1774, aged 70 years ; also of Marthi his wife, who was buried the 19th of the same month, aged 68. They lived to- gether 40 years, and were seldom separated ; and what is still more remarkable, they died within ten days of each other. From the following list of the rectors of this parish, it appears that the Rev. Dr. Comber, the celebrated dean of Durham, was rector of this church 1 1 years ; to which he was presented by the no less celebrated Sir Hugh Chomley, in a manner which reflected equal honour upon them both. Life of Dean Comber, p. 89 and 105. His other prefer- ments prevented him from residing here for any considerable time together ; though he laid out considerable sums in the repairs and decoration of the church, and rebuilt the parsonage-house from the ground.* * " There is a note or memorandum in his pocket book, that on the 2 day of April, 1681, he completed the repairs of the roof, floor, and windows, of Thornton, church ; and he also placed a new set of rails round the communion table. His generous conduct in laying out of his own pocket considerable sums of money in repair- ing and beautifying Thornton church, cannot be too greatly commended : he certainly was not obliged to do it; and if he had omitted doing it, no one would have imputed it to him as a fault. Comber's Life of Dean Comber, p. 134. In the month of July, 1695, he finished the parsonage 8 s THORNTO1T. List of the rectors of this church, as far as they can be ascertained from the parish registers. When instituted. Rectors. When vacated. 1 609 John Robinson 1 645. 1645 Christopher Bradley, A.M..} born at Harum near Helm- v 1653. sley,in 1606 ; was ejected ^ 1653.. John Robinson, died 1656. 1656 Christopher Bradley, A. M. > ._ instituted second time, died ^ 1678 Thomas Comber, D. u., (af- } terwards dean of Durham,) v 1699. buried at Stonegrave \ house at Thornton, which he had built from the ground. He purchased also a piece of freehold land for an orchard, which he added to the garden, and enclosed with new walls ; the whole of these improvements costing him several hundred pounds. He seems to have had a partiality for Thornton, and at different times to have been a mu- nificent benefactor to i4 ; but there is no certain token now extant whereby we may learn from what peculiar cir- cumstances it arose. He does not seem ever to have had it in his power to reside upon it for any considerable time together, his presence being indispensibly necessary at his other preferments ; but he kept a resident curate there, who is mentioned in some ef his letters, and for whom he afterwards procured preferment. Whether his inability to reside on the above living, induced him to lay out more money upon it than he otherwise would have done ; its being named after a family for whom he entertained so high and just an esteem, and from an al- liance with which so great a portion of his happiness flowed ; or the circumstance of its having been given him in so truly noble a manner by Sir Hugh Chomley ; or whether all these facts combined together operated upon. his mind, certain it is, that the effects of his good will were ~o solid and lasting as to remain even to this day ; though those who are partakers thereof may not be aware of the hand which bestowed them, and the motives which produced such bounty, p. 345. THORNTON. 323 B. D:, bu- 7 S" 1699 Thomas Mason, B. , - 1749 ried at Thornton 1742.. probably John Samuel Hill,} D. D., (and Oswald Lang- v 1757. with, curate) \ 1757.. .... ..Oswald Langwith, buried) ,-,-_ at York, January 25th.... * 1768 John Ward .*... 1784. 1784 John Hill Webb, A. M. present rector.' The Thornton registers commence as early as 1539 the year after the act was passed for keeping parish registers, and appear to have been correctly kept ; but the register of the first hundred years are scarcely legible from the peculiarity of the writing, and the delapidated state of some of the leaves. Grammar School and Hospitals, In the year 1656, lady Elizabeth viscountess Lumley, by a deed bearing date the 8th of October j directed Sir Thomas Mayne, Knt., and John Penrice, Esq. the executors of her will, to dispose of her manors and lordships of Sinnington, Thornton, Marton,Edstone, &c ; and with the funds arising therefrom, amongst other charitable bequests, to erect and build a grammar school, and hospitals, at Sinnington, or Thornton. The grammar school she endowed with 30. per ann, ; 10 acres of land and a house for a master, (who was to be at the instance of the Rev. William Ward, the master 5 and still more recently from 1814 to 1816, as already noticed. 326 THORNTON. may notice, the late Dr. Bateman, BI.D. author of several valuable professional works. Dr. Thompson, M. D. of Scarborough, and the Rev. John Clark, A. M. head master of the grammar school at Rudgley, Staffordshire, besides many of the neighbouring gentry, and clergy.* When instituted. Masters of the Grammar School. Rev. Henry Hunter, died April 9th 1691. 1738 Rev. William Ward. 1769 William Storr,(a layman) died 1786. 1787 Rev. Michael Mackereth, present master. Hospitals. At the west end of the school, are the hospitals, a neat row of tenements, built of stone and covered with slate, for the accomodation of 12 poor people, (generally widows,) 6 of whom are chosen from the parish of Sinnington, 4 from * From the following extract from the life of dean Comber, it appears that the grammar school has had the honour of producing a bishop. " Some time in this year, (1683,) his bookseller, Mr. Robert Clavell, addressed a letter to him, -wherein he speaks in the following high terms of a young gentleman of the name of Leng ; who seems to have been educated at Thornton school, and about this time was removed to the university. ' This, sir, is Mr. John Leng's account before he went to Cam- bridge ; I lent him many hooks, which he makes use of and returns. He delights in nothing more than study, which he is at early and late; and indeed deserves a bet- ter character than any young man 1 ever knew.' Whether Dr. Comber was his guardian, or what was the nature of the connexion between them, no certain traces are now extant : but Mr. Leng greatly distinguished himself for his learning at the university, and afterwards became a bishop.", p, 1SQ. THORNTON. 327 the parish of Thornton, and the remaining 2 from the respective townships of Marton, great and little Edstone, and Farmanby, in the parish of Ellerburne. They have each a neat house, and garden, with a salary of 12. 10s. per ann. and a chaldron of coals* By the same munificient donor, a further sum of 40. per ann. was left for the purpose of cloathing and putting out as apprentices 4 boys of the said parishes of Sinnington, Thornton, &c. JBy the deed a chapel was to have been built, for the use of the school, and hospitals ; but as they are only a short distance from the parish church, it was considered unnecessary, and prayers are read in the school room, on the Thursday afternoon. The lands which support these charities, are partly at Thornton, and partly at Thirsk. The trustees are 7 in number, and each vacancy as it oc- curs, is filled up by the rernaing 6. The present trustees are Sir William Strickland, of Boynton; Sir George Cayley, of Brompton ; Charles Duri- combe, Esq., of Duncombe park; the Rev. Thomas C, R. Read, of Sand Hutton ; Richard Hill, Esq., of Thornton; William Worsley, Esq., of Hovin- gham ; and J. R. Foulis, Esq., of Heslerton. The Hall, the residence of Richard Hill, Esq., the lord of the manor, is a large and commodious modern mansion ; but unfortunately placed in a low situation, from whence only a partial glimpse can be caught of the fine extensive views, which the el- evated grounds in its immediate vicinity command This manor formed a part of the ancient patri- mony of the lords Latimer, who held this and other 328 TIlOtlNTON. possessions in the neighbourhood, (see account of Sinnington,) from the time of Edward 1 ,to20 Eliz- abeth 1577, when it is supposed they passed to the family of Danvers, earl of Dan by, and thence to the lady Elizabeth, viscountess Lumley,* who directed these estates to be sold, to create funds to meet her various charitable bequests. The manor of Thorn- ton, came into the possession of the ancestors of the present proprietor, during the last century. In the adjoining parish of Ellerburne, and about a quarter of a mile west of the village of Thornton, is Roxby Hill, (from Ros, a proper name, or ruska a rush, and bi a dwelling ; a dwelling place by rush- * In the life of dean Comber, p. 126, it is stated that the lady viscountess Lumley, was daughter and co-heir- ess of Danvers earl of Danby ; which if correct would at once account for the transmission of the estates to the Lumleys ; but as Dugdale in his Baronage, vol. ii p. 417, and Bankes in his Extinct and Dormant Peerage, vol. iii, both assent that he died in 1643, unmarried, we must conclude this statement incorrect; unless we suppose her to have been a natural daughter. In her deed poll an allusion is made to an indenture entered into, on the 29 of April, 1631, between the right Hon. Henry earl of Danby and herself ; but she is not stated to have been, liis daughter ; though probably some relative and his heiress. From the same document it appears that she was twice married ; first to Sir William Sauge, Knt. of Mottis- fonr, in the county of Southampton ; and secondly to the Rt, Hon. viscount Lumley. The latter nobleman was an Irish peer, and of illustrious descent both on the male and female side, being descended from Liulph, lord of Lumley castle, in the county of Durham : who in the reign of Edward the confessor, married Algitha, daugh- ter of Aldred, earl of Northumberland, by Edgiria daugh- ter of king Ethelred II. : from -whom also descended the Lumleys, earls of Scarborough. Edmonson and Bankes' Peerage, ii, 328. THORNTON. where \r as the principal seat* for nearly a cen- tury of the ancient family of the Cholmleys of Whitby, and Housham. Here resided Sir Richard, " the great blaek knight of the north," and here was born in ]600, the celebrated Sir Hugh Cholmley, a distinguished character daring the Commonwealth, and governor of Scarborough castle. Nothing now remains but inequalities in the surface, to indicate \yhere this once splendid mansion formerly stood. The Cholnaleys had also a seat at Wilton,f in the same parish; where at the east end of the present * They had previously resided at Kingthorp, near Pickering; but left it about the year 1525, whea they purchased the estateat Roxby, of which the family of the Hastings appear to have been the former proprietors, see the pedigree of the Babthorpes in Burton's Monasticon, p. 437 ; where Sir John Hastings, of Roxby, Kt. is men- tioned as having married into that ancient family, about the year 1480, by his union with Isabel, daughter of Sir Ralph Babthorpe, of Hemingbrough. See also Leland's Itenerary, who observes, " Cholmley had much of Hast- inges' (a knight) lands." f In the parish Register of Ellerburne, occurs the following curious notice, relative to a fatal murrain, which afflicted the whole district; but was felt with the greatest severity at Wilton* " In the year 1748, a distemper amongst horned cat. tie, (believed to be infectious) carried off more than a third part, and not quite half the horned cattle in this parish, It broke out in January, and raged above six months; no human skill being able to stop its rapid pro- gress. It has prevailed above five years in this kingdom, and several places abroad much longer; In the town* hip of Wilton, it was more fatal, and of longer conti- nuance, they lost upwards of two thirds of their cattle* Oswald Langwith, then curate of Ellerburne, and Wil- ton, willing to transmit so signal a visitation from the hand of God to future ages, made this memorial in the year 1750. the Rev. John Samuel Hill, being vicar. Tt XBBERSTON. chapel may be seen a small fragment of the wall, and a deep moat, which has surrounded the house. EBBEHSTON. This is a village, in the wapentake of Pickering Lythe; 6 miles from Pickering, 11 from Scarboro- ugh, 13 from Malton, and 31 from York ; having a population of 505 The living is a vicarage in the patronage of the dean of York, and the present incumbent is the Rev. Thomas Simpson. This village is celebrated for an elegant build- ing, constructed on the plan of a Roman villa, for the rural retirement of one of the Hotham family ; but now the residence of George Osbaldeston, Esq. This small bat beautiful villa is in view of the York road, at the distance of about a mile from it. It is placed at the foot of a delightful eminence, decora- ted with plantations, and the beauty of the scene is heightened by a small sheet of water, rushing down the declivity, and falling in a cascade behind the house; round which it is conveyed by an aque- duct, and reappears flowing in a small and gentle current to the village. On the hill above the house, is a small cave in a rock, called Ilfred's hole ; the proper name of which is Alfred's cave. In this cave according to tradi- tion, a Saxon king of that name, flying wounded from his pursuers, took refuge, and continuing in it one night, was the next day conveyed to Driffield, where he died. This cave is almost filled up, by BBBERSTON. 331 the falling in of the rock; but several of the old people of the village, remember when it would have contained eight or ten persons. Ella's croft, near York, in the same manner, de- rived its name from ^Ella, the Saxon prince who was slain there * The following inscription, en- graved upon a stone over the cave ; and afterwards painted upon wo -d, when the stone was decayed ; is remembered by some of the ancient inhabitants. Alfred, king of Northumberland was wounded in a bloody battle, near this place, and was removed to little Driffield, where he lies buried. Hard by his entrenchments may be seen. An enclosure at the west end of Ebberston, ad- joining the Pickering road, now known by the name of the bloody close, confirms the opinion that a bat* tie was fought here ; but it is stated that Alfred was wounded in a battle, within the lines of Scam- ridge, (either Six Dykes, or Oswy's Dikes) near this place. Sir Charles Hotham,t about the year * History of Scarborough. t Sir John Hotham, Knt. and Bart, was the son of John Hotham of Scarborough, near Beverley, Esq. His mother, Mrs. Jane Hotham, was cousin to the first lady of Sir Charles Cholmley. His ancestors for many gene- rations had been persons of distinction. Sir Galfred de Hotham founded the priory of Hull, in 1331 ; and his son, Sir Richard, was a benefactor to it. There was a Sir John Hotham, high sheriff of Yorkshire, in I4b7 ; and another Sir John Uotham held the same office in 1499 and 1500. John Hotham, Esq., was high sheriff in 1584, and M. P for Scarborough in 1585, Sir John Hotham, the first baronet in the family, obtained that honour in, 1622, and was high sheriff in 1634. In the beginning o that year he purchased Fyling hall, with the demesnes, from Sir Hugh Cholmley, his kinsman and particular 332 EBBER8TON. J790, erected a plain building of rude stone, in memory of this Saxon king Alfred ; on the summit friend ; and for some time he fixed his residence at Fy- ling. The hall in which he lived has long been in ruins, but the lands there are still the property of the Hotham family, the proprietor of an estate at Ebberston, and of the above villa. Sir John acted a conspicuous part in the civil wars which proved fatal to himself and his son. When king Charles approached Hull with a considerable force, in 1642, Sir John who was governor of it, denied him ad- mittance, unless he would enter with only 12 attendants ; upon which the king proclaimed him a traitor ; after which Hull was closely invested by the king's troops ; who were repulsed. After this Sir John sent out several parties, under the command of his son, captain Hotham, to harrass the royalists ; but at last, in 1643, he and his son began to correspond with the king's party, and talked of surrendering Hull to the queen ; and this being found out before the design could be carried into effect, mea- sures were taken to arrest both the father and the son. Sir John escaped to Beverley, where he was secured, and he and captain Hotham sent prisoners to London ; where they were tried and condemned as traitors, and executed the beginning of January, 1645. Catherine, a daughter of Sir John Hotham's, was mar- ried in 1654, to Sir William Cholmley. The estates of the family were forfeited : but were afterwards recovered. Sir John Hotham, who inherits the title and estates, was governor of Hull in 1689 ; but died that year at an advanced age. Several baronets, mostly of the name of Charles, have followed, Tn 1797, William Hotham, Esq., admiral of the blue, was created lord Hotham, of South Dolton, in Ireland ; with remainder (in default of male issue) to his nephew Sir Charles Hotham, Bart., of Scarborough, and his heirs male ; and in default of such issue, to the heirs male of Sir Beaumont Hotham grandfather of Sir Charles Hotham. History of Whitby. Banks, in his Extinct Baronage, vol. i. p. 345, speak- ing of the Hothams, says : this is a very ancient family in the county of York, which is said to be descended from Sir John Trehouse, Jord of Kilkenny in Ireland j BROMPTOV. 333 of the hill within twenty yards of the cave. This building is circular, with the top terminating in a dome ; it is capable of containing twenty persons j and the whole is surrounded by a dwarf wall. BROMPTON, Ts situated in the wapentake of Pickering Lythe, 8 miles from Scarborough, 10 from Pickering, 14; from Malton, and 32 from York ; having a popula- tion of 516 having in its parish Sawdon population 139; Snainton 603; and Troutsdale 45; collect- ively 1303. This village is said to have been the residence of the Northumbrian kings, and the foundations of an ancient building are still visible on an eminence called castle hills, now surrounded by some majes- who for his good services at the battle of Hastings, had a grant from William the conqueror, of Colley Weston, in Northamptonshire, and Hotham in Yorkshire ; from, which latter place the surname is assumed. lohn, the sen of Peter de Hotham, was summoned to parliament 8 of Edward II. By Agnes his wife, daughter and heir of Sir lohn Hasleton, of Hasleton in Yorkshire, he had is- sue Sir lohn Hotham, and Thomas his second son, from whom descended another lohn, who was found one of the cousins and co-heirs of Thomas de Thweng, baron of Thweng and Keldon castle ; from which line the family of Hotham, now flourishing, is presumed to be immediate- ly derived. viz., admiral lord Hotham, Mr. baron Ho- tham, late one of the barons of the court of exchequer, general Hotham, and bishop Hotham, all brothers to Sir Charles Hotham, Bart. K. B., sometime since deceased. Arms, argent, four bars azure, and canton gules. Dug dale's Baronage, Tel. ii. p. 91, 334 BROMPTON. tic pines, planted by the late Sir George Cajley, Bart. In the reign of Richard II., Brompton was the lordship of Thomas de Bromflet ; Henry his son inherited his estates, and this with others, being entailed upon Margaret his daughter, came into the Clifford family. This was the place that gave birth to the celebra- ted John of Brompton, who adopting the pious and fashionable mode of the times, retired to Whitby abbey, in the beginning of the 15 century, and be- came famous for genius and literature. In this sequestered place he composed the Annals of the English Nation ; a work of great merit. In this village is the mansion of Sir George Cayley, Bart., a descendant of the very ancient and noble family of that name ; a family which ennobles .the pages of history ; whose ancestors were high- ly respected, and the excellent dispositions of their descendants endear them to all who know them. The first notice I can find of this family in history, is in the 7 year of the reign of king John, when. Adam de Cailli pleaded before that sovereign, in a cause depending between him and Michael de Pur- inges, touching the dowry of Margaret, wife of the said Michael. From him descended Thomas de Cailli, or Cay- ley; who in the 35 Edward I., being one of the cousins and heirs to Robert, the son of Robert de Tat shall, viz. son of Emma, third sister and co-heir of the said Robert ; performing his fealty, obtain- ed livery of the lands of her inheritance, and wa BROMPTON. 335 summoned to parliament, in the 2, 3, and 4 of Ed- ward II. In the 8 of that king's reign, he had summons to fit himself with horse and arms, and be at New castle- upon-Tyne, on the festival of our lady's assumption; thence to march against the Scots. He died the 10 of Edward II., being seized of the manor of Hyldeburghworth, in Norfolk ; leaving Adam, son of Roger de Clifton, by Marge- ry, his sister, his nephew and heir ; nine years of age. Collins, in his parliamentary precedents, p. 391, says, that Sir Osbert Cayley ; by Emma, (eldest sister, and co-heir to Robert de Tatshall,) had issue ; Sir Thomas Cayley, baron of Buckingham. Of this family was Sir William Cayley, of Brompton, ear Scarborough; created a baronet, in the year 1661. He was the son of Edward Cayley, Esq., and re- ceived the honour of knighthood, the 2nd of March 1641 : and for his services to king Charles I. and II.* was created baronet 20 April, 1661, as before named. He died in 1681, and was succeeded in the title by his son. Sir William, the second bar- onet, was nominated one of the aldermen of Scar- borough, in the charter granted 36 of Charles II. He served the office of mayor, in 1683; and died in 1708. Sir Arthur Cayley his son, the third bar- onet, died 1727. Sir George his only surviving son and successor, was a very useful magistrate in this district, many years ; he died at an advan- * Sir William Cayley's next brother, Arthur, was knighted for the same reason, in 1660: and Thomas, the third and youngest brother, died in 1643, in the service f the king. 336 BROMPTON. ced age, in 1791, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Thomas ; who survived him but six months ; leav- ing issue the present Sir George, and four daughters. The family arms are, quarterly, argent and sable ; a bend gules, charged with three mullets of the first. Crest : on a wreath a lion rampant, or, with a bend, gules, charged with three mullets, argent. The church is elegant and capacious, with a spire steeple ; it is dedicated to All Saints ; the living is a vicarage; and the patron Sir George Cayley, Bart. In the chancel is a monument in memory of the first baronet ; the inscription is in latin, and is thus englished. Here lies Sir William Cayley, Knt. and Bart. ; a character to be revered ; formerly patron ot this church : a kind and provident father to his family ; a constant and diligent servant of his country ; always devoted to God and the church ; and ever faithful to his king. He was a lover of, and an exciter to virtue ; and a detester and pun- isher of vice : exemplary in his life and death ; anx- iously expecting a joyful resurrection. He married Dorothy, daughter of Sir William St. Quintin, of Folkton, in the county of York, Bart., by whom he had five sons ; Edward, William, Arthur, Cor- nelius, and Hugh, ( the first and last long since deceased ;) he had also two daughters, Mary, and Ann. He led an undefiled life, in the holy estate of matrimony, forty-eight years and six month?, and left a mournfulwidow. He died May 2nd 1681, aged 71 years and five months. This memorial WYKEHAM. 337 of his piety, his youngest surviving son, Cornelius Cayley, caused to be erected.* In this church there is also an inscription, in re- lievo, on a stone to the memory of James Westrop,t of which the subjoined is a copy. 1 W. E W 1580 1547 HEIR, II LIETH It [AMES VVHo H IN || WAKS || TO ||H[S|| GKBIT CH A KG ES || SAKVED II OIN i| KYNG ANUpTOWH uVENES 1 1 WITH || DV oBK o i E NS || AND || WITH || oWT || K, K || CVMPENS WYKEEIAM, Is situated, in the wapentake of Pickering Lythe ; 7 miles from Scarborough, 1 1 from Pickering, 15 from Malton, and 33 from York ; population 582. The church is a neat and commodious structure, having been repaired and embellished, by the liber- ality of the late Richard Langley, Esq. The liv- ing is a curacy, in the patronage of the Langley family, and the Rev. John Cayley is the incumbent. In the year 1321, in the 15 Edward II. ; John * See Dugdale's Baronage, vol. ii. p. 56. Banks's Ex- tinct Baronage, vol. it p. 249; and history of Scarborough. t Nothing is now known of this family, excepting the mention of Westhorp Hall, in some old deeds respecting lands in the neighbourhood of this place. U u 338 MYKEHAM. de Wykeham, erected a chapel here on the site of the church of All Saints, which was then taken down, being ruinous, and decayed, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, and Saint Helen. The said John de Wykeham, having the king's license, gran- ted by charter, dated 20 of June, 1321, to dame Isabel the prioress, and to the convent, the annual stipend of 12 marks of silver, and several parcels of land, for procuring and sustaining two perpetual chaplains and their successors, daily to celebrate divine service in the said chapel, for the soul of the founder; and for the souls of all the faithful de- ceased; which ordination was confirmed by Wil- liam, archbishop of York, 20 of July 1233. Half a mile from Wykeham, in the same town- ship, is Wykeham abbey, lately the seat of the Hon. Mrs. Langley, and now the residence and property of the Hon. Marmaduke Langley.* The house is kept from the view of the traveller on the York road, by lofty firs interspersed with forest trees ; but a handsome gate-way announces the direction in which it stands. Here Pain Paganus Fitz-Osbert, or de Wykeham, about A. D. 1153, in the 18 of king Stephen, built and endowed a priory of cistercian nuns, to the hon- our of the virgin Mary and St. Helen. The site of this priory is in the flat part of the country, not far from the road leading from York to Scarborough on the right hand; but very little of it now remains. The chapel, a small venerable gothic structure, and part of the north end wall, which separates the WYKEHAMj 339 present burying ground from the garden of the manor house, are the only vestiges of this ancient edifice. At the time of the dissolution, there were in this priory about nine religious ; whose estate was valued at ,25. 17s. 6d. per annum. The site of this house was granted in 35 of Henry VIII., in the year 1545, to Francis Pool : to whom afterwards in the snme year the king granted license to alienate the manor of Wykeham, with all belonging to it in Marton, Wykeham, Huston, and Hutton, to Richard Hutchinson and his heirs ; but 39 of Henry VIII., 1546, the rectory of Wykeham, with all the tithes of demesne lands, were granted by the king to Wil liam Ramsden ; to whom soon after he gave license to alienate it to the said Richard Hutchinson and his heirs, in whose family it has since remained ; though the name of Hutchinson was changed to that of Langley, by the grandfather of the late Richard Langley, Esq. This priory, the church, cloisters, and 24 houses, having been casually burnt down, together with all their books, vestments, chalices, &c,, king Edward III. relieved the nuns from the payment of 3. 12s. 7d. per ann. for 20 years to come ; which they used to pay to him for lands held by them in the honour of Pickering, part of the duchy of Lancaster, dated 7 of Nov. 1327, 1 of Edward III. Here were six prioresses ; the first named Emma de Dunstan, who was elected in 1281, and resigned in 1301 ; and the last was Catherine Nandick, instituted in 1508.* The arms of the Langleys are paly of six, ar- * Burton's Moiiasticon. p. 255. 340 HUTTON BtJSHELL. gent and vert, sometimes quartering, argent a cockatrice with wings raised, sable, beaked, mem- bered, gules. Crest, out of a ducal crown, or, a plume of five ostrich feathers, three argent and two vert. HUTTON BUSHELL, Is situated in the wapentake of Pickering Lvthp ? 6 miles from Scarborough, 12 from Pickering, 15 from Malton, and 34 from York ; containing a pop- ulation of419 ; and having in its parish West Ay- ton, the population of which is 229. Collectively 648. This village is pleasantly situated on rising ground, and is adorned with the mansion and plea- sure grounds of George Osbaldestone, Esq. It derived its lame from the Buscel family,* which came into England with the conqueror. Reginal Buscel, whose father came over with the duke of .Normandy, married Alice, sister of William, abbot of Whitby ; and at the time of his marriage gave the church of Button, which his father had built to the monastery of Whitby. Upon the site of this ancient church it is thought the present one stands. EAST AND WEST AYTON Are pleasantly situated on the opposite banks of the Derwent. On the slope of a pleasant field, on the jr. w. of Ay ton t are the remains of an ancient castle, * History of Scarborough p. 331. EAST AND WEST AYTON. 3-tl once the fortified residence of the family of the Eures, or Evers, This village was the lordship of Gilbert, the son of Lagi ; who soon after he became possessed of it, assumed the name of Ay ton, From this place, in the reign of Henry I., his grandson Gilbert, who succeeded him in this manor, married Margery, the daughter of Warine de Vesci, a young- er son of William lord Vesci; and after that by marriage came into the Clifford family. Henry, the eldest son of John lord Clifford, who was slain in the battle of Towton field, in the Lancastrian cause, was very young at the death of his father ; and his mother dreading the resentment of the house of York, placed him in an obscure retreat at Londes- borough, with a shepherd who had married her nurse ; charging the woman to bring him up as her own child. A report afterwards reaching the court that the young lord Clifford was alive ; he was se- cretly removed along with the shepherd, to a farm in Scotland : and on the accession of Henry VII I. to the throne, was restored to the estates and hon. ours of his ancestors.* Three fourths of the manor of West Ay ton are vested in seven trustees, for the maintenance of dissenting ministers ; agreeably to the will of lady Hewley. The remaining fourth belongs to George Osbaldeston, Esq. of Hutton Bushell. HACKNESS Is a celebrated and delightfully pleasant village, in the wapentake of Whitby strand, 6 miles N. w. * Wordsworth's Poems ii. 128. 342 HACK NESS. of Scarborough. It contains a population of 143 ; and has in its parish Broxa, population 61 ; Har- wood dale 255 ; Silphoe 96 ; and Suffield 97 ; in all 632. This village was once the favourite retreat of lady Hilda, the pious and illustrious abbess of Whit- by. Burton, in his Monasticon, says Hackness in Whitby strand was pitched upon by St. Hilda, in 680, a little before her death, but this house* came to ruins before the conquest. The circumstance of its being fixed upon by St. Hilda was the inducement perhaps of Serlo, second prior of Whitby, to retire thither. Serlo on finding himself annoyed by robbers and pirates landing on the coast of Whitby, request- ed this place of William de Perci, or Percy, his brother, the founder of the abbey of Whitby, as of greater security : and having obtained of him the church of St. Mary,or rather St. Peter, of Hackness, and some lands here, he for a time deserted Whitby, and fixed with his monks here ; but some difference arising between Serlo the prior and William de Percy, the latter endeavoured to drive the monks hence, and to repossess himself of the lands grant- ed them. Upon which the prior, Serlo, applied to king William llufus, to whom he was personally known, as having been educated together in their youth, who not only granted Serlo and the monks his protection, but became also their benefactor, granting them 6 carucates of land ; two at Hack- * The site of the monastic cell built under her di- rection is supposed to have been where the old manor house lately stood, which was esteemed the perfect mo- del of a monastery. Near this site the late Sir Vanden Ucmpdc Johnstone ; Bart., built a spacious mansion. HACKNESS. [345 ness, and four at the village of North-field. Being thus secured against his brother, and his possess- ions here enlarged, he and his monks continued in this village some time ; but he returned to Whitby, leaving some of the monks to reside here, in or near the church of St. Peter ; which from this time be- came a cell to Whitby. King Henry I. granted or confirmed to them the church of Hackness, with the appurtenances, and the franchises of soc, sac, toll, team, and infangtheof ;* and Henry II. confir- * The terms soc, sac, &c. are of Saxon origin and hare been variously defined. According to the most pro- bable interpretation, soc, is the power of holding courts to settle disputes, or to take cognizance of offences, ar- ising within the bounds or manor in the district where it is enjoyed, including the power of summoning the ten- ants, or vassels to attend in such courts ; sac, is the power of imposing fines, or forfeitures, in such courts. Thol, or toll, is the right of buying or selling, and ta- king custom, or toll, of such as buy, or sell, withiruthe territory. Team is the privilege of having villains, or slaves, and of disposing of them at pleasure ; and infang- theof is the power of judging thieves, or robbers, when found within the manor, or territory, and punishing them, but not to take away their life. The monks were at great pains to get their lands, possessions, and privileges confirmed to them by the most ample securities, and the grants made to them were executed with the utmost solemnity, the donor usually oftered his bene- faction on the altar, and deposited there in the presence of witnesses, his staff, his knife, or some other pledge, in token of giving seizin of the estate : the conveyance was then signed, sealed and witnessed in due form, war- ranting the premises to be the monks against all men and women for ever ; and sometimes for the greater sta- bility of the deed, pronouncing a blessing on all who should confirm it, and a curse on all by whom it should be infringed. When a grant was made by a tenant or homager, care was taken to have it confirmed at the time or shortly after by a superior under whom he heldj 344: HACKNESS. med the same. Richard II. confirmed the sane j- with the addition of exemption from the payment of the tax called danegeld. William, archbishop of York, likewise confirmed their possessions here. It is uncertain what number of monks resided at Ilacknesa ; probably that was arbitrary, and de- pended wholly on the pleasure of the abbot of Whitby. It is most likely that the estates granted to it whilst the whole community resided here, be- fore their return to Whitby, were on their return to that place, cast into the common stock ; and that the support of the few left at this cell was derived from Whitby, the mother monastery. The church of Hackness is a very ancient fabric, with a venerable spire. It is dedicated to St. Mary, and the Rev. Thomas Irvin is the incumbent. Un- der an urn in the charch is an inscription to the memory of lady Hilda, and upon the wall of the chancel is another ; both noticing her. pious, useful, and exemplary life. SCARBOROUGH, Is a place which combines utility with pleasure. It is a bathing town of very considerable resort. Nu- and if that superior, was subject to some higher feudal lord, then a confirmation of the latter was also requisite. After all a royal charter was necessary, to give perma- nent possession, and if churches, or tythes were bestow- ed, the deed was not sufficiently valid without the charter of the archbishop, and to crown all the pope's bull was sometimes superadded, as the highest possible sanction. SCARBOROUGH. 345 merous are its visitors ; not only these of the high- er circles ; but those also in the middle ranks in life ; many of whom are valetudinarians, and others resort hither for recreation and amusement. Ho\v delightful is this situation ! the bay is beautiful, the water is limpid and wholesome, the sand is clean, smooth and firm ; and the beach slopes towards the sea, by an easy and almost imperceptible des- cent. The town is situated in the recess of a beautiful bay, winding round in the form of a cre- scent, which, from the German ocean, has a very in- teresting appearance. This place is nearly in a cen- tral situation, between Flamborough Head and Whitby. On the south is a vast expanse of ocean ; a scene of the highest magnificence, where fleets of ships are frequently passing. The refreshing gales of the ocean, and the shade of the neighbouring hills, give an agreeable temperature to the air, during the sultry heats of summer, and produce sensations grateful and soothing. This town is situated in the wapentake of Pick- ering Lythe, and liberty of Scarborough ; 18 miles from Pickering, 2i from Whitby, and 22 from Mai- ton. The origin of it is not known. Scarborough is Saxon, signifying Scar, a rock, and burgh a fortified place.* The town is well built. The population, * Scarborough is called in Camden's Brittannia, by Gough, Scardeburg, from which this account is extract- ed, with the alteration of modern spelling. Scarde- burg, where it is not defended by the warth and the sea, is walled a little with stone, but most with ditches, and walls of earth. In the town to enter by land, are but two gates. It standeth wholly on a slaty cliff, and sheweth very fair to the sea. There is but one parish, Xx 346 SCARBOROUGH^ according to the returns in 1821, is 8,188. Most of the old streets are narrow and incommodious ; but church joining almost to the castle, a great chapel by the Newbo rough gate, and three houses of friars, black and white. At the east end, on one point of the bason of the sea, standeth an exceeding goodly large and strong castle, on a steep rock, having but one way by the steep slaty crag to come to it ; and before you enter the area, of the castle, there are two towers, and between each of them a draw-bridge, having a steep rock on each side of them. In the first court is the arx, (which signifies fort,) the eldest and strongest part, and three towers in a row, to which joins a wall, as an arm coming down from the first court to the point of the cliff, containing six towers, whereof the second is square, and full of lodgings, and called the queen's tower or lodging. At the south east point of the town by the shore, is a bulwark, now in ruin, by the sea washing against it, made by Richard III., that lay awhile at Scardeburg castle ; and beside began to wall a piece of the town quadrato saxo. I heard that Henry I. gave great privileges to the town of Scardeburg. The pier is now much decayed. The town is large and built in the form of a crescent on the sides of a steep hill. At one eud is the castle, with barracks in the yard ; and under it to the south, a large stone pier, and another now building. The castle was demolished in the civil war. Here was a cell of Cistercians before the reign of John, given, on the suppression of alien priories, to Bridling- ton ; a house of Franciscans or grey friars about 1240 ; another of black friars before 13 cf Edward I,; and another of Carmelites, ascribed to Edward II. ; and two hospitals. The east end of the church is ruined. The town drives a good trade in fish; with which they sup- ply York, though 30 miles distant. Besides herrings, they take ling, cod, skate, whiting, mackerel, &c. Here are above 300 ships let out for freight. The tOj-- of the rock contains now, as in Leland's time, 18 or 20 acres of meadow. This town gave title of earl, 2 of William and Mary, 1690, to Richard, viscount Lumley, who died 1721 ; was succeeded by his second son, Kichard ; he, in 1739, by his brother Thomas ; he, in 1752, by his son, Richard ; v. ho dying 1782 was suc- ceeded by his eldest son George; Augustus eight and SCARBOROUGH 347 there are several handsome new streets, abounding with large and elegant houses, many of which are fitted up as lodging houses during the bathing sea- son. Here are various accommodating institutions, both public and private ; designed principally for the convenience of visitors. Great attention is paid to the spaw waters, or mineral springs, which are close to the beach, a little to the south of the town. These springs were discovered about the year 1620, and their salubrious waters have raised Scarborough present earl. This and Hull, being the only state ports on this coast short of Yarmouth, the pier is maintained by a duty on coals from Newcastle, and Sunderland ; and the mariners hospital for seamens' widows, by a rate on vessels and deductions out of seamen's wages. The spaw is about a quarter of a mile south from the town, at the foot of an exceeding high cliff. It rises out of the earth like a boiling pot, near the level of the spring tides, which often overflow it. In an hour's time It throws out above 24 gallons, for the stones through which it flows contain above 12, and being emptied every morning it will be full in half an hour. The wa- ters are impregnated with a purgative salt, a small quan- tity of common salt, and steel, and are very transparent, inclining to a sky colour, having a pleasant acid taste and inky smell. There are two wells, the farthest from the town most purgative and more bitter, and the other more chalybeate, brisk and pungent. December 29, 1737, the ends of several inclosures behind the cliff on the back of the Spaw sunk down, making a valley of a vast length and breadth, the weight of whick shook and opened the hill behind the house, and forced up the sands 100 yards, on each side the space, and 27 broad, to the height of , and even 10 yards. The pier, entire as it was, moved sideways and rose up about five yards ; and the houses fell and took fire, The flag house and rails about the mouth of the well, were forced up 10 yards, and the Spaw lost for a time, but soon after recovered as good as before : but Dicky's staith and furniture were all lost* Th tide was out at the time this happened. 348 SCARBOROUGH. to fame, and have been of great benefit to the afflic- ted. At the east side of the town, on a lofty peninsular rock, of considerable extent, stands Scarborough castle. This rock is accessible only by a narrow isthmus, which has been strongly fortified. This formidable fortress was built by William le Gros, earl of Albermarle and Holderness, about the year 1 134, and has been the scene of various memorable transactions. During the civil wars it was bravely defended by Sir Hugh Cholmley, against the forces of the parliament, for upwards of a year ; and after- wards sustained another siege of 5 months, under the command of colonel Boynton : since that time its principal buildings and fortifications have laid in ruins. These dignified ruins are disfigured by the presence of barracks built with brick, erected in 1746. Scarborough is an ancient royal burgh, having the privilege of sending two members to parliament. Jt was incorporated by a charter in the reign of Henry II. dated in 1181. The corporation consists of 44 members, at the head of whom are two bailiffs. The parish church stands close to the isthmus by which we enter into the castle. It has been a very noble structure, being originally the conventual .church of a Cistercian monastery. There were at Scarborough three convents of friars, black, grey, and white ; two hospitals and four churches ; none of which survived the wreck of the monastic institu- tions. It has now in addition to the parish church, places of worship of the Methodists, Independents, SCARBOROUGH. 349 -*"._.,. Baptists, Catholics, and the society of Friends. A number of pious and charitable institutions are sup- ported here : The Trinity hospitals, the schools of the Amicable society, Lancasterian schools, Sun- day schools, Bible Society, &c, The harbour of Scarborough is very ancient A grant from Henry III. dated 1252 for the forma- tion of a new port here, with timber and stone is yet extant. It is furnished with a light house ; and as the entrance is not obstructed by a bar ; vessels may sometimes find refuge here, when they cannot enter the harbour ofWhitby. A considerable num- ber of vessels belong to this port ; their aggregate burden is between 20 and 30,000 tons. Falsgrave, or Mulsgrave, which at the conquest waa the principal manor here, is a small village on the west. The country about Scarborough is extremely pleasant, the rides are delightful, and the scenery interesting ; calculated to animate the feelings and improve the health. Those who wish to have a fuller account of this place may consult Mr. Hinder- well's correct and elegant* History of Scarborough.* CANTON Is in the wapentake of Pickering, 7 miles from Hunmanby, 10 from Scarborough, 16 from Bridl ing- ton, and 81 from York, having a population of 278, including Potter-Brompton ; which being united form a township. This is the seat of the ancient and honourable family of the Legards : a family 550 OANtOK. possessing those excellencies which cannot fail to excite admiration and respect. This family is of* Norman extraction, and became possessed of the lordship of Anlaby near Hall, in Yorkshire, in the year 1100, by the marriage of the heiress of that name. Thence came the Ganton branch in the person of John, commonly called John de Ganton, a younger son of Ralph Legard, of Anlaby Esq. His son John died in 1643. John Legard, Esq., grandson of this last gentleman, having- signalized himself in the service of Charles II. ; under the command of lord Fairfax, rose upon general Lambert, and surprised York, in order to facilitate the march of general Monk, from Scotland in 1660. In consideration of these and other services of him- self and his family, he was on the 29 Deer. 1C60, created a baronet. He was at that time member of parliament for Scarborough ; and in 1669 served the office of bailiff of that borough. This gentleman married Grace, one of the daughters of Conyers, lord d'Arcy ; and afterwards Frances, eldest daugh- ter and one of the co-heirs of Sir Thomas Widdring- ton. By this second marriage the family became allied to the noble family of Buckingham. Sir John, the first baronet, died at Ganton in 1678. Sir John Legard, the second successor to the former, by Frances his second wife, was nominated senior alderman of Scarborough, in the charter of the 36 of Charles IJ., and served the office of mayor in 1685. He died in 1715. Sir John his son, the third baronet, died a bachelor in 1719, and was succeeded by his brother Sir Thomas, who married CANTON. 351 Frances, daughter of John Digby, Esq., of Mans- field Woodhouse, in the county of Nottingham : he died in 1735, and was succeeded in the title by Sir Digby, his only son. Sir John, the late baronet, who succeeded to the honour and estate on the death of his father, Sir Digby, 1773, married Miss Aston, daughter of Aston, Esq , of Cheshire ; but dying without issue, in 1809, the title and es- tate descended to his brother, now Sir Thomas Legard, Bart. The family arms are argent, on abend, between six mullets, pierced gules, a cross pattee, or : crest, on a wreath a greyhound, or. Motto, ' Per crucem ad Stellas.' The patronage of the church is in the honourable family of the Legards. The incumbent is the Rev. William Legard. In the interior of the church are several monuments and vaults belonging to this ancient and noble family.* YEDDINGHAM Is in the wapentake of Buckrose, 9 miles east of Malton, on the banks of the Derwent. The parish church is a small structure, dedicated to St. John the baptist ; of which earl Fitzwilliam is the patron. This place was anciently called Little Marcis, or de Parvo Marisco. Roger de Clere, or rather Hel- ewisia de Clere, before A. D. 1168 9, (Henry 11.) founded here a small monastery for eight or nine benedictine nuns, to the honour of St. Mary the * History of Scarborough. 352 YEDDINGHAM. . virgin ; granting to them ail his lands in this place, with the liberties of toll, team, soc, sac, and infang- theof ; which Henry II. confirmed to the nuns, whom he took under his protection. The church was dedicated to the honour of St. Mary A. D. 1241, by the bishop of Whitern in Scotland, suffragan of the archbishop of York, at the instance of Emma de Humbleton, prioress and convent ; and granted to all penitents and confessed persons, resorting to the said dedication, one hundred days relaxation from penance enjoined them; and ordained that the day of such dedication should be solemnly kept as a holiday yearly, in thesaid parish, for ever; granting to such persons who out of devotion came thither to solemnize that anniversary, on the octaves thereof, forty days of pardon. In A D. 1534, 26 of Henry VIII., their annual income amounted to 21. 16s. 8d.--Dugdale. 26. 6s. 8d.--Speed. The site in 35 of Henry VIII., A. D. 1543, was granted to Robert Holgate, bishop of Landaff, af- terwards bishop of York. Boatrix was the first prioress, and the last Agnes Bradrick, or Bredridge, a nun, 1525 ; who after the dissolution had an an- nual pension allowed her of 6. 13s. 4d. Eusemia, daughter of Adam de Everley, was buried here. Burton's Monasticon p. 285. SCAMPSTON, In the parish of Bridlington, and wapentake of Buckrose, miles from Malton, is the seat of the 353 family of St. Quintin. This family is said to have derived their name from St. Quintin, the capital of lower Picardy in France ; and to have entered England in the Norman invasion. The name is recorded in the roll of Battle-abbey. Sir Robert de Quintin, had by gift from the Conqueror many manors. One of this family built a castle in Wales, the remains of which are called St. Quintin's castle. In 1134 Adeliza or Alice, the mother of sir Robert, who built the castle in Wales, founded a priory for nuns of the cistercian order, near Appleton, in Yorkshire, and called it Nun Appleton. The mansion at Scampston has a handsome ap- pearance ; and the grounds are beautified by nume- rous plantations. An elegant stone bridge crosses a fine stream of water which runs through the park, where grazing deer animate and give interest to the scene. MALTON Is a place of which, if the limits of my work would allow, I could say much ; but at present, I can on- ly give a sketch of it. It is situated, partly in the wapentake of Rydale, and partly in the liberty of St. Peter, 14 miles from Kirkby-Moorside, 9 from Pickering, 22 from Scarborough, 18 from York, 28 from Beverley, 30 from Bridlington, 20 from Eas- ingwold, 27 from Thirsk, 16 from Helmsley, and and 217 from London. It lies on the west side of the Derwent, and is approached over a handsome and spacious stone bridge, which connects it with 354 Norton, the river forming the boundary between the east and north ridings. This town has long been improving, in consequence of the Derwent naviga- tion, which facilitates its trade, and has made it the mart of this district for corn ; which is bought by the Malton factors, and shipped to the western and other markets. Butter, bacon, &c. are conveyed hence in large quantities, to Hull, London, Leeds, Wakefield : and other commodities returned, such as groceries, coals, woollens, &c. in great abund- ance ; which could not be done to that extent, \vere it not for water conveyance ; so that the act passed in the reign of queen Ann, to make the Der- ivent navigable to this place, has proved a great blessing to it. Malton is an ancient town, it was a considerable place of the Brigantines, or the ancient Britons, of this part of the kingdom, and by them well fortified. The Romans after they got possession of this part of this kingdom, thought it of great conse- quence, which is proved by great military ways leading to it ; and the military station they made of it. This warlike people planted here one of the nuroeri, or cohorts of Legio Sexta Vietrix, called Derventionensis, and changed only the termination of its British name to Camulodunum. This name by abbreviation, became the Saxon Meld urn, pronounced maiden ; and Maiden Greve Balk is at this day one of the boundaries of Malton.* Here was a ford, the only one by which the river * History of Yorkshire. MALTON'. could be easily passed on the northern border of the wold, excepting at Stamford-bridge. It is thought that Malton must have been the ancient Derventio, a name which is derived from its being the principal station on the Derwent. Stamford-bridge, to which the honours of Derventio have been unjustly given, being a place of no mo- ment in comparison of this station, and furnishing no such evidences of its ancient greatness. This supposition is strengthened by the numerous Ro- man coins both silver and copper, of various empe- rors, which have been found here. Fragments of urns, and others entire, containing also Roman coins, and many other relics of that warlike people. It is said that the Camulodunum of the Roman Britons became a royal villa to king Edwin in the Saxon period ; and here the life of that prince was preserved from assassination by his faithful friend Lilla. Malton, like all other places, has had numerous possessors, many of whom we know not even the names, and others we are able to trace. In the time of the Saxons, the great earl Siward, who defeated the Scotch tyrant, Macbeth, possessed this town and lordship ; and after the Norman con- quest, the descent of the property is clear. Imme- diately after that period the Conqueror took Malton into his own possession, and gave it to his favourite Gilbert Tyson ; from whom it descended to Eustace Fitz-John, in the reign of Henry I. : but Henry I. dying, and Stephen coming to the throne, Eustace rebelled against him, and espoused the cause of the M ALTON. empress Maude, who claimed the throne, and deli- vered up Malton, and Alnwickin Northumberland, which Henry I. had given him, to David, king of Scotland, who placed a strong garrison in Malton castle, and committed the most dreadful outrages in the neighbourhood, Enraged at these procee- dings, Thurstan the heroic archbishop of York, col- lected an army, and having defeated the Scots, took Malton castle, and burnt the town. Eustace re- treated into Scotland ; but being afterwards recon- ciled to Stephen, and restored to favour, he rebuilt the town of Malton ; and from that period it was called New Malton. William, his son and heir assumed the name of Vesci ; and the manor of Malton continued in this family till William de Vesci, who was slain at the battle of Striveling, dying without heirs, it reverted to the crown ; and Edward II. constituted John de Mowbray governor of the castle. After this the manor passed to Warine de Vesci, a younger branch of the family of the Vescis ; whose daughter and heiress, Margaret, marrying Gilbert de Aton f brought the manor into his family, and made him lord ef Vesci j whose descendants inherited the property for many generations ; till William de A ton, lord Vesci, leaving three daugh- ters co-heiresses, viz. Anastasia, married to Sir Edward St. John, Katharine to Sir Ralph Eure, or Evers, and Elizabeth to John Coniers. On a partition of the estates being made. Sir Ralph had for his part the town and lordship of Malton. St. John's part soon after passed by marriage of Mar- MALT ON. 357 garet, daughter and heiress of Sir John St. John, Knt., to Thomas de Bromflete ; whose grand-daugh- ter and heiress marrying lord Clifford, brought the same part into his family ; so that in the reign of Henry VIIL, Clifford, Eure, and Coniers, had New Malton in partition ; Eure having the entire lord- ship of Old Malton to himself.* Ralph lord Eure, a descendant of this illustrious family, built a noble mansion at Malton, at the con- clusion of the 16 century ; but his two cousins, heiresses, disagreeing respecting the property here, this mansion was pulled down, and the materials divided between them, by Henry Marwood, Esq., then high sheriff for the county of York, 1674 ; excepting the lodge in the front of the house, which is now standing, having three original arch-gateways on the street side, the centre arch bearing the family arms. This perhaps was spared in consequence of some compromise which took place before it came to its turn to be demolished. Mary, the youngest of the above mentioned heir- esses, was married to William Palmer, Esq., of Linley, in this county ; who in right of his wife had the manors of Old and New Malton ; which from him descended to Sir Thomas Wentworth. The Hon. Sir Thomas Wentworth, Knt. of the Bath, obtained the dignity of a peer of the realm, by the title of lord Malton, May 20, 1728; and six years after- wards was created marquis of Rockingham. He dying in 1760, was succeeded in his title and estates by his only son, Charles Watson Wentworth, mar- * History of Scarborough. 358 WALTON. quis of Rockingham ; wlio dying in 1782, his nephew earl Fitzwilliam, succeeded to the manor of Malton and his other estates. The castle here, which was situated near the bridge, on the left hand leaving the town for Scar- borough, was built by the family of the Vescis ; and Eustace Fitz-John built also a Gilbertine priory in old Malton, about 1150. Malton was a corporate borough, and governed by two bailiffs until the reign of Charles II., when a writ of quo warranto, to which the inhabitants pleaded prescription, deprived the burghesses of the privileges ; for judgment was given in favour of the crown, and a new charter has never been applied for. Since that time the court leet and court baron of New Malton appoint a nominal borough bailiff and two constables, and exercise the usual jurisdic- tion of those courts. Malton sent members to par- liament in the reign of Edward I. : at which period the prior of Malton was elected representative. This borough now sends two members to parliament, elected by the householders paying scot and lot ; the number of voters being about 500. The present representatives are lord Duncannon, and John Charles Ramsden, Esq. Here are two churches or episcopal chapels ;* one of them is dedicated to St. * The town of Malton hath a good market, and two chapels, as members to the parish church of Malton, yet standing, wher the late prioiy in Old Malton was. The castel ef Malton hath been large, as it apperithe by the ruin. These men have the lordship of Malton in parti- cipation ; the lord Clifford, Yevers, and one of the Couiers ; but lever* has beside the hole lordship of Old M ALTO PT. 359 Leonard, the other to St. Michael ; the former of which has a truncated spire, which has been left un- finished. On the outside of this fabric is an inscrip- tion stating that this chapel was built, consecrated, Malton. Lord William Vescy, and diverse of the Yevers, were buried at Malton; The old inheritance of the Ye- rers is Wotton castle, in the bishopric. Lord Vescy left a daughter married to Aiton, and the daughter of Aiton married the lord Bromfleet ; and his three daughters to Clifford, Yevers, and Comers, of Lockburne. Leland, i. 64. Malton stands in the fruitful vale of Ryedale. In New Malton is the mount of the old castle. A Roman inscrip- tion was dug up in 1753, in the Pye pits over against the lodge at Malton. The lodge belonged to the late marquis of Rockingham. Mr. Percy Carr, mason, found the in- scription ; and Mr. Horncastle, apothecary at Malton, got it for Dr. Swinney. D, M. AVR. MA. CHINVS. EX. EQ. SING. AVG. The equites singulares are here first mentioned in Britain. They were part of the emperor's body-guard : probably of the emperor Sererus, and this their appropri- ate burying place. Philos. Trans, xlix, 69. The Derwent was made navigable to Malton, and from thence to its junction with the Ouse, by act of parlia- ment 1 Anne. Eustace Fitz-John, about 1150, foun- ded a Gilbertine priory in old Malton, which is a quar- ter of a mile from the town, on the same side of the Dar- went, valued at 1 97. He also founded at Broughtou near Malton, an hospital of St. Mary Magdalen. Tan- ner 662. Lei. i. 64. At the foot of the bridge between Malton and Norton, was, early in tke reign of Henry II., an hospital of St. Nicholas, founded by Roger de Flamville, and put under the government of the canons of Malton. The priory is now the parish church. The late marquis of Rocking- ham was lord of this place, and took from it the title of earl Malton. Cough's Camden. III. p. 326. 306 MALTON. and dedicated to St. Leonard, after the reformation, in the reign of Henry VIII. The population of St. Leonard's parish is 2339, and that of St. Michael's 1666; making the whole population of New Mai- ton 4005. The earl Fitzwilliam is the patron and lessee of the tithes under the see of York, The Rev. William Flower, A. M., is the incumbent, and the Rev. C. A. Binns the assistant curate. The other places of worship are for the Indepen- dents, Methodists, and the society of Friends. A theatre was erected here in 1814 ; and a hand- some suit of rooms in Yorkersgate ; to which are attached a subscription library and news rooms. The market here is held on Saturday, and is well attended. There are five fairs annually; Monday and Saturday before palm-sunday, the 15 of July, on the 11 and 12 of October, and on the Satur- day before Martinmas day. About half a mile from New Malton is OLD MALTON. The parish church, which is dedicated to St. Ma- ry, is a very ancient structure. It stands where the Gilbertine priory did, and is well worth the notice of the antiquary. The arch over the western door is in the Saxon style, and worked in the most beau- tiful manner. Within this door, after the western wall of the building, are seven seats or stalls of the monks ;"; which have been brought from other situa- tions and placed there ; four of them on one side, and three on the other. The chancel, side aisles, and other parts of the building, have been taken WALTON. 361 down in consequence of its having been too large for the population ; and part of the nave only now remains. On the eouth wall of the existing part of the building is an inscription reminding us that in 1734, the building was shortened 38 feet ; and that the original fabric was similar to York minster in its formation, and equal to it in magnificence. Oa the same wall is hung up a garland, made of hoops, crossed at right angles, and covered with paper; inside of which is paper cut in imitation of gloves, on which is written Grace Porter, 178(5, aged 58. This is the remains of an ancient custom, which was intended as an honour paid to those females who had lived a life of celibacy. In this nation, as well as others, by the abun- dant zeal of our ancestors, virginity was held in great estimation, insomuch as those who died in that state were rewarded at their deaths with a gar- land or crown on their heads, denoting their tri- umph over the inclinations of nature. These gar- lands were carried at the funeral of the deceased, before the corpse, by two maids, and were after- wards hung up in some conspicuous place within the church, as memorials of the departed persons. In many churches these garlands have been taken down by order of the ministers and churchwardens, being considered as unsuitable decorations for such sacred places. The living of Old Malton* is a perpetual caracy * * la Camden's time, Old Malton and New were one parish ; and the chapels at New Malton were chapels of case to the mother church at Old Malton ; but now Old Z s 362 in the patronage of earl Fitzwilliam ; the Rev. William Flower, A. M., is the incumbent, and the Kev Mr. Richardson assistant curate. Here is a free school which was founded by Robert Holgate, D. D., archbishop of York, in 1546, who endowed it with lands and tenements to the value of ,20. per annum, instead of which it has now a money payment of 100. per annum. The master is appointed by the archbishop of York. The school has a good house anri garden attached to it. Carlisle's Grammar Schools. There are here a few good inns, the principal one of which is the Talbot, kept by Mr, Barton. Here is also a chalybeate spring, called Mai ton Spaw, containing strengthening and very efficacious properties. For an account of it, see Dr Short's history of mineral waters. It is situated on the margin of the Derwent, having a public garden at- tached to it, kept by W Longster. About a rnile from Malton, in the parish and township of Norton, is Welham ; the seat of Robert Bower, Esq. KIRKNAM Is situated in the wapentake of Buckrose, and was the prncipal seat and favourite residence of Wal- ter de 1'Enpec, who with Adelina his wife, founded a monastery here in 1121, to the honour of the holy Malton is a distinct parish, and New Maltou is two , a. rishes, St. Lrora'd's and St. Michel's. The 'b-ee parishes are in oue living, and two curates are employed to officiate. KIKKHAM, 363 Trinity. The occasion of which is said to be as follows. Sir Walter Espec, knight, by Adelina, had only one son, called also Walter, who took great delight in riding swift horses ; but galloping one day to- wards Frithby, near Kirkham, his horse fell near a stone cross, and the young man died instantly The inconsolable father scarce knowing whom to make his heir, and being desirous to devote part of his estate for the service ot God, consulted William his uncle, then rector of Garton, who advised him to found a monastery at Kirkham, which he did ; and endowed it with seven churches, the profits of which, together with the rents and other possessions, in Yorkshire and Northumberland, amounted to 1100 marks. This house was situated in a beautiful and delight- ful vale on the east side of the river Dei went, about two or three miles south-east from Whitwell, and about six miles from Malton There are yet some remains of this once noble and magnificent structure. The nothern part of the gate is yet to be seen ; the remains of the cellars on the south, and a small part of the church ; but all in a ruinous state. This priory was surrendered on Dec. 8, 1539 30 Henry VIII., by John de Kildwick prior, and seventeen canons, and was valued in 26 Henry VIII., at 300. 15s. 6d. according to Speed; at 269. 5s. 9d, by Dugdale : and was granted in 32 Henry VIII., to Sir Henry Knevet, Kt., and Ann his wife; but 3 Edward VI., the earl of Rutland held it de rege in capite per servic militar, to whom KTRKIIAH. in the 5 Elizabetli, the queen gave licence to alie- nate this manor, with those of Bilesdale, Stiperlow, and Rievaulx, to Edward Jackman, and Richard Lambert. The family of the Ross's were the patrons of this priory. At the dissolution, here were 30 fodders of lead, 442 ounces of plate, and 7 bells. Towards the aid granted to king Henry III., upon the marriage of his daughter, this priory paid 5. pipe rolls, 29 Henry III. William, rector of Garton, uncle to Walter Espec, the founder, was the first prior ; he was institu- ted 1122, and John de Kildwyk was the last, and vacated in the year 1528. In the whole there were twenty priors. Persons buried in this priory. William de Ross, son of Robert Fursan, alias Ross. Robert de Ross, son of William, buried in a mar* ble tomb, on the south side. William de Ross, son of Robert deRoss, interred in a marble tomb, on the north side. William, son of the last William, was also laid in a stone mausoleum, near the great altar on the south side. Also, Richard Holthwaite, of Cleveland, Alice Ross, of Kirkham ; John Wyton, William Turney, Edmund Pole, Robert Foster, of Howsom, George ' ' O Gower, and Ralph, lord of Grey stock, were buried here. The property now belongs to Henry Leatham, .Esq. of Barton. The word Kirkham, signifies the place of a church. CS65) CASTLE-HOWARD. This place was formerly called Hinderskelf, and is supposed to have been so designated, from ita being situated at the junction of the hundred, or wa- pentake of Buhner, and that of Rydale. The word Hinderskelf meaning Hundred-lull, or the hill where the hundreds meet. This place has long been of great importance, and was once a situation of con* siderable strength ; where was fought many a bat- tle, and where many a brave hero gloriously fell 1 In the year 1070, an innumerable multitude of Scots under king Malcolm, traversing the county of Cum- berland, turned eastward into the vale of the Tees, which, with the neighbouring country far and near, they laid waste with brutal ferocity : but when they came to a place called Hinderskelf, there having slain some of the English nobility, Malcolm return- ed into Scotland by the same route by which he had advanced ; loaded with spoils, and laying waste the possessions of St. Cuthbert, with part of Cleveland. I/eland's Collectanea, vol. iii. p. 355. Hinderskelf castle was an ancient seat of the Greystocks. Elizabeth, only daughter and heiress of Ralph lord Greystock, was married to Thomas lord Dacre, of Gilsland, in 22 Henry VII., in which family it was continued till the marriage of Eliza- beth, sister and coheir of George lord Dacre, with lord William Howard, third son of Thomas duke of Norfolk, who was beheaded; it is said on the ac- count of his having favoured the cause of Mary, queen of Scots, (though it is thought he suffered 366 CASTLE-HOWARD. wrongfully.) In consequence of which marriage, Hinderskelt passed into the noble family of the Howards, in which it has since continued. This delightful place is now called Castle. Howard, a name given it by Charles, the third earl of Carlisle, of the family of the Howards, who erected the pre- sent superb mansion. Castle-Howard is situated in the parish and wa- pentake of Bulmer, 7 miles \. s. w. of Malton, 13 from Kirkby-Moorside, and 15 from York, on a "beautiful and commanding eminence, in view of the York road. The edifice was built between the years 1712 and 1731, from a design of Sir John Van burgh ; it is built in the same stile as Blen- heim house in Oxfordshire, on the site of the old castle Hinderskelf, which was destroyed by acciden- tal fire. This house has an imposing and noble ap- pearance, and whatever defects criticism may dis- cover in the architecture of it, it is one of the most princely mansions in this country, and worthy of the august and dignified personages who inhabit it. Its interior is inexpressibly superb, and affords high gratification to the admirers of the fine arts ; and the liberality of the noble proprietor entitles him to the highest praises and most grateful feelings of the public, for allowing them to partake of the pleasures arising from such a repository of taste and refinement. To view this miscellany of beauties, to gaze up- on this collection of excellencies, a man of taste may in a few hours improve his mind and expand his views more than he could do in months, by rea- . ASTLE-HOWARD. 67 eling descriptions from the pens of the most pictur- esque and impressive authors. In passing from one room to another, fresh objects interest the mind of the visitor ; one beau- tiful scene after another arrests his eyes, animates his feelings, and excites astonishment in his heart. Beautiful columns, walls painted with the most significant devices, statues, busts, marbles of va- rious descriptions, bronzed figures, urns, curious cabinets, tapestry, precious stones, and many other rare and valuable specimens of antiquity, are pre- sented to his notice. Like the other decorations of this beautiful man- sion, THE PAINTINGS must be seen, to form a correct judgment of them. The three Marys, by Anibale Caracci, are most admired. In this astonishing picture all the excel- lencies of painting are united The expression which is given in it engages the feelings, and trans- ports the imagination to the very scene. The entombing of Christ, by Ludovico Caracct, the finding of Moses, by Don Diego Valesquez, the adoration of our Saviour, painted by Mabuse, the portrait of Snyders, by Vandyke, Herodias with the head of John the Baptist in a charger, by Reubens, the circumcision, by Giovanni Bellini, Isaac going to be sacrificed, by Rembrandt, St. John the Evangelist, by Domenichino, and the portrait of Omai, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, are very much admired. To these are added a great CASTLE-HOWARD. number painted by the first masters, ancient and modern. The buildings in the park, which is extensive and beautiful, presents scenes of solemnity, gran* deur and delight. THE MAUSOLEUM is a circular fabric of considerable dimension, sur- mounted with a dome, and surrounded by a hand- some colonnade of Doric pillar?. Over the vault is an elegant circular chapel. The cornice from which the dome rises is supported by eight Corin- thian columns, and the ornamental carvings are light and pleasing. The floor is disposed in different com- partments, inlaid with marble, and the whole is or- namented with a fine table of antique Mosaic. About half a mile from the house, in another part of the park, is an Ionic temple, with four porticos, and a handsome room fitted up chiefly with marble. The cornices of the door cases are supported by Ionic pillars of black and yellow marble, and in the corners of the room are pilasters of the same. In niches over the doors, stand busts of Vespa- sian, Faustina, Tragan, and Sabina. The floor is composed of different antique marbles ; and the room is crowned with a dome beautifully gilt. On the south of the house is a PYRAMID, fifty feet high, raised to the memory of William, lord Howard, third son of the duke of Norfolk, from whom the family of the Howards is descended* flASTLE-UOWARD. 369 At the entrance of the wood which shelters the house from the east, stands a square pedestal, deco- rated with antique medallions, supporting an urn, with various figures representing the sacrifice of Iphigenia. On this pedestal is a Latin inscription, which in English is thus imitated : Diana holds, in this sequester'd grove, Divided empire with the queen of Love. While Phoebus shines, chaste Dian bears the sway ; Then fearless sleep, ye nymphs, the hours away, But when with darkening veil night shrouds this glade, In playful triumph Venus rules the shade : Ah ! then, ye virgins, fear the dangerous hour, Trust not the sighs which amorous youth may pour; For Love in sport derides perfidious vows, In darkness made beneath these verdant boughs. Nearly opposite the grand entrance in the north front of the house, is an elegant monument com- memorating the victories of lord Nelson ; with the glorious and enthusiastic names ofAboukir, Copen* hagen, and Trafalgar, inscribed on three of its sides, in large golden characters : and in the centre of fine avenues, bordered on each side with towering and majestic trees, crossed at right angles, stands a quadrangular OBELISK, One hundred feet high, erected in the year 1714, to commemorate the victories of John, duke of Malbo- rough ; and to fix the date of the erection of Castle- Howard. The inscription relative to the duke of Malborough is in Latin, and may be Englished thus : 3A 370 CASTLE-HOWARD^ To perpetuate the valour and success of John Duke of Malborough, the defender of his country and of Europe, Charles, Earl of Carlisle, erected this stone, sacred to admiration and to fame, in the year of our Lord 1714. The present noble proprietor is Frederick How- ard, earl of Carlisle, viscount Howard of Morpeth, baron Dacre, and knight of the garter. He was born on the 28 of May, 1748, and succeeded his father, the late earl, Sept. 3, 1587. The heir apparent is George viscount Morpeth, eldest son of the pre- sent earl, and M. p for Cumberland. Near the house is a commodious inn; with a post chaise, &c. : kept by Mrs. Ann Kirby. SHERIFF-BUTTON Is situated in the wapentake of Bulmer, 8 miles, E. s. E. of Easingwold, 15 from Kirkby-Moorside, and 10 from York ; having a population of 756. The church* is dedicated to St. Helen : the living is a vicarage in the patronage of the archbishop of York ; and the Rev, Thomas Tate is the incumbent. At this place was a neat and strong castle, built by Bertram de Bulmer ,t in the reign of king Stephen. * Alice de Neville, left lands prior to 1 332 for the sus- tenation of one priest, celebrating perpetually for her soul in the church of Sheriff- Hutton. It was made a vicarage about 1332, and the vicarage was further reduc- ed in 1376, to 10, sterling. Bur. Mon , p. 266. f Aschitel de Bulmer, in the time of Henry I., was succeeded by Bertram, sheriff of Yorkshire, 5 Stephen ; whose son and heir, Thomas de Bulmer, flourished 18 Henry II. His successor was Robert; succeeded by SHERIFF-BUTTON", 371 His daughter and heir, Em ma, was married to Geoffrey Neville, in consequence of which the cas- tle and estate became the property of that family. It was greatly injured in the civil wars between Stephen and the empress Maud ; but Ralph Neville, the first earl of Westmoreland, repaired it. He died in 1389, and it continued in the family of the Nev- illes until the death of Richard Neville, earl of Warwick, who was slain at St. Albans ; and his lands being seized by Edward IV., this castle and manor was granted to Richard duke of Gloucester) the king's brother, who had married Ann, the daugh- ter of Warwick. After various changes this castle and manor became the property of Henry VI I ; and seem to have continued in the possession of the crown ; until they were granted to Charles, prince of Wales, afterwards Charles I. Within the walls of this castle was immured, by another Bertram ; who left an only daughter and heir viz. Emma, who married Geoffrey Neville, by which match the lordship of Brancepeth, in the county of Dur- ham, was first acquired to the Neville family. Another branch of this family was Ralph de Bulmer; who 9 of Edward II., was a man of considerable note. He was the son of John de Bulmer, who married Theophania, one of the three daughters and co-heirs of Hugh de Morewyke, of Morewyke in Northumberland. He had issue Ralph de Bulmer, who was summoned to parlia- ment amongst the barons from 1 Edward III, to 23 inclusive. He was often in -the wars in Scotland ; and a person of eminent note : 4 of Edward 111 he was sheriff of Yorkshire, and governor of York-castle ; and died 31 of Edward lit:, leaving Ralph his soi? and heir ; who was succeeded by his son Ralph. The male line continued for many years, terminating at length in Sir Richard Bulmer Kt. who died 5 or 6 of Philip and Mary. Arms ; Gules, a lion rampant saliant, erminoisi 372 SHERIFF-IIUTTOK; the jealous policy of Richard III., Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Edward IV., and rightful heir to the throne ; and Edward Plantagenet, earl of War- wick, son to the duke of Clarence; and whose title to the throne was superior to that of his uncle. On the death of Richard in the battle ofBosworth field, and the accession of the earl of Richmond to the throne, in 1485, by the title of Henry VII , Warwick had reason to expect better treatment ; as lie was no obstacle to the succession either of Hen- ry or Elizabeth; and from a youth of such tender years (15,) no danger could reasonably be appre- hended : but Sir Robert Willoughby was dispatch- ed by Henry, with orders to take him from Sheriff- Iluttoii, to convey him to the tower, and to detain him in close custody. Here this unhappy prince continued 14 years ; at the expiration of which time, to the eternal disgrace of Henry, he was brought to trial, and executed on Tower-hill, at the early age of 25, on some frivolous pretence of promoting the last insurrection of Perkin Warbeck : by which violent act of tyranny, may with more reason be ascribed to Henry avowed jealousy of the house of York ; of which this unfortunate prince was the last male descendant. The same messenger which was dispatched to Sheriff-Hutton for Warwick, carried directions, that the princess Elizabeth, who had been confined in the same place, should be conducted to London, in order to meet Henry, and there to celebrate his nuptials. But though bound by honour, as well as by interest, to complete this alliance, Henry was SHERIFF-HUTTON. 373 resolved to postpone it till the ceremony of his own coronation should be finished, arid till his title should be recognized by parliament. Anxious to support his personal and hereditary right to the throne, he dreaded lest a preceding marriage with the princess should imply a participation of sove- reignly in her, and raise doubts of his own title ; and it was only in consequence of the earnest en- treaties of his parliament, that he was induced the following year to satisfy the minds of his people in this particular.* His marriage was celebrated in * An amusing account of the coronation of this Princess, 3 years after her marriuge, is given in Hearn's Appendix to his edition of Leland's Collectanea, vol. IV. p. 216, in which are accurately described the various ceremonies, observed on that occasion, the great entertainment given in White-hall, with a list of the various dishes served up at the royal table ; and a list of the names of the nobility and gentry who were present. " One curious circumstance relative to two of the queen's female attendants, I cannot forbear to name : when the queen had washed, and my lord archbishop of Canterbury said grace ; then dame Catherine Grey, and Mrs. Ditton, went under the table, where they sat on either side of the queen's feet all the dinner time ;" an. office, which the maids of honour at this day would not readily embrace. In the same work may be found, an account of the ceremonies observed at the christening of her eldest sen the young prince Arthur, and the betrothing of her daughter Margaret to James IV king of Scotland ; to- gether with her departure from England, journey into Scotland by York, her reception and marriage, and the great feasts held on that occasion, p. 258. In which ac- counts the reader must be struck, with splendid equip- ments of the nobility, who met the queen and escorted her through their respective counties, and especially the splendid array of the earl of Northumberland : and on her arrival into Scotland the singular gallantry shewn by king James during his courtship, which is conducted 374 8HERIPF-HUTTON. London, and that with greater appearance of uni- versal joy, than either his first entry or his corona- tion. Henry remarked with much displeasure this general favour borne to the house of York. The suspicions which arose from it, not only disturbed his tranquillity during his whole reign, but bred disgust towards his consort herself; and poisoned all his domestic enjoyments. Though she was virtuous, amiable, and obsequious to the last degree, she never met with a proper return of his affection, or even of complaisance, from her husband ; and the malignant ideas of faction still in his sullen mind, prevailed over all the feelings of love. This amiable but ill-treated queen bore to Henry several sons and daughters ; the most celebrated of her sons was Henry, who succeeded his father in the throne, by the title of Henry VIII. ; and her daughter Margaret, who married James IV.,* king with all due form and ceremony for some weeks prior to their marriage. The curious may also find in this scarce volume, amusing accounts of Henry Vll's progress towards the north, his princely entertainment and recep- tion at York ; and of the procession and coronation of that amiable young prince Edward VI. * James IV., king of Scotland, was in his 16 year when he had the misfortune to stand in battle against his father James III : whose murder raised him to the crown in 1488. Remorse for his unfilial conduct was one of the first feelings which attended his elevation, and he condemned himself to wear an iron chain round his body, to which he added one link for every succeed- ing year. In 1503 he married Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., but in the disastrous battle ef Flodclen- field, so fatal to the Scottish nobility, he fell mortally wounded, while bravely fighting in the centre of his troops, and around him fell the flower of the Scottish SHERIFF-HUTTON. 375 of Scotland ; which important event in the issue produced the desirable union of the two kingdoms under one crown. The queen Elizabeth did not long survive this marriage of her daughter, dying shortly after in child-bed ; a domestic calamity which made not that impression upon the king which it merited. This princess was deservedly a favourite of the nation ; and the general affection for her increased, on account of the harsh treatment which it was thought she met with from her consort. Leland, in speaking of this building, says, it standeth in loco utcunque edito ; on a lofty and elevated mound not requiring ditches. He tells us also, he saw upon the front of the first area of the castle, three great and high towers, of which the gate-house was the middle. In the second area were five or six towers ; and the hall, with the stairs up to it were very magnificent. So much was the noble historian struck with the remaining magnificence of this building, that he avowed he saw no house in the north so like a princely lodging. Indeed the ruins are yet dignified ; which from their elevated situation, may be seen to a great distance, display- ing the remains of grandeur ; and shewing by their ruinous appearance the mutability of all earthly things. nobility ; 12 earls with many of the inferior nobility and gentry. He left an only son a year and half old ; James V. who was the father of the unfortunate Mary queen of Scots, whose son James VI. on the death of queen Eli- zabeth, succeeded to the throne of England by the title of James I. 376 SHERIFF-BUTTON. The stones with which this majestic pile was built, as observed by the above cited author, were brought from Terrington ; who also says l the castle has a park by it.' Ralph Neville, lord of Raby, obtained in 1377, a charter for a market here on Monday ; a fair annu- ally on the eve of the exaltation of the holy cross ; on September 14, and two following days; which are now discontinued. The late lady Invin, of Temple Newsam,died seized of this castle and manor ; they are now in the possession of the marquis of Hertford; in right of his wife, Isabella Ann, daughter of the late lady Irwin ; who took the title and surname of Ingram, in 1807. Sheriff.Hutton park is the seat of George Lovv- ther Thompson, Esq. In this village are two chapels belonging to two societies of Methodists ; and two schools, each hav- ing a small endowment. Lines applicable to Sheriff- Hutton Castle, Behold those moss-grown ivied walls, Through which the glimmering moonlight falls, "Where screeching owls and bats obscene, And crawling vermin creep between These once with gorgeous hangings drest, The blazoned shield, and towering crest ; Where conquerors, with laurel crowned, And patriots from the canvas frowned, Or beauteous dames alternate smiled, CRAIKE. 377 For whom those Heroes fought and toiled, See o'er their tops the wild ash grows, And each rank weed luxuriant blows, The swallow, undisturbed, hath hung Her nest on roofs, which erst hare rung, With sound of harp, and minstrelsy, Of pageants, pomp, and revelry, When at the high-born lady's calf, The feast and dance, iu bannered hall, At vrinter evening's welcome close, To ancient warlike music rose. No more the mirth-inspiring song Echoes the lofty hall along ; No more to sprightly notes of pleasure, Swims the light dance in graceful measure. Trail's Poem?, CRAIKE Is a place, which in the times of feudal grandeur find clerical dominion, was held in great estimation, and entertained personages of the highest rank, and of the utmost importance. From peculiar cir,. cumstances it is a part of the bishopric of Durham, though situated in the wapentake of Buhner in the north riding of the county of York. It is 3 miles from Easingwold, and 1? from Helmsley, contain- ^ng a population of 538. It is a rectory, within the archdeaconry and peculiar jurisdiction of the Dean and Chapter of Durham ; it is dedicated to St, Cuthbert, and the patron is the bishop of Durham, is ajso lord of the manor. with the lands three miles round was giv* 3 B 378 CKATKK. en to Egfrid king of Northumberland, in 685, by \\ hv>m it come to the church of Durham. This pi. ous person, St. Cuthbert, bishop ofLandisferne, or the Holy Island, soon after founded a monastery here. It is said that king Egfrid gave this village and laud about it to St. Cnthbert, that he might have a place to rest at on his way in going and re- turning from the north to York. This shews the nature of those times, and the high respect which was paid to those who officiated in holy things. The village stands on an eminence. On the sum- mit of this hill stand the ruins of Craike castle. It is not known by whom this once powerful and magnificient building was erected ; but it is conject- ured to have been a Roman fortress, and that in the time of the Saxons it was a royal palace. The pros- pect from this situation is most commanding : hence is a delightful view of the forest of Galtres, and an enchanting range over the picturesque and ex- tended vale of Mowbray ; so called from its ancient owner Roger de Mowbray, who was a principal man with William Rufus, and possessed one hun- dred and forty manors in England, and twenty in Normandy. He built a great number of religious houses in one of which he ended his days. The ruins of Craike castle, are now occupied as a farm house. Near these ruins is the church, surround- ed by lofty trees and dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The freeholders of this place vote for knights, for the county of Durham ; pleas of land are held hi the county of Durham ; but in the military arrange- ments, government thought proper to embody the > militia with the troops raised in this county. (379} MARTON IN GALTRES Is situated ill the wapentake of Buliner and liberty of Ripon, 5mileseastofEasingwold, 11 from York, and 14 from Malt on, having a population including Moxby of 164. The church is a perpetual curacy in the deanry of Buhner, the patron of which is the archbishop of York ; and the present incumbent the Rev. D. Duck. Bertram de Bulrner, (who lived in the reign of king Stephen, and beginning of king Henry II.,) founded here a monastery for men and women, of the order of St. Austin, dedicated to St. Mary : but the nuns were not long after removed to Molesby. This house was situated in the flat country about 14 miles N. E. of York ; a little s. E. of the rising ground of Bransby and Gilliug castle, on the right side of the road leading from York. There are no remains of the old buildings, only a farm house erected with part of the stone thereof. The place where the house stood, is yet distinct enough ; and the moat about it is now to be traced. The church at Sheriff- II uttou, was granted to it by Peter de Mauley, lord of Mulgrave in 1332. The church at Sutton in Galtres was granted to it by Walter Grey, archbishop of York in 1227. On the 9 February, 1536, 27 Henry VIII., this priory was surrendered by Thomas Yodson, or Godson, and 15 cannons, and was valued at 183. 2s. 4d. Speed ; and 151. 5s. 4d. Dugdale. And 34 Henry VIII. 1543, the site was granted to the archbishop of York, in ex- change for other lauds. MARTON IN GALTRES. In 1553, here remained in charge ;22.inammities* Upon the visitation of religious houses, in 1535, this prior and convent desired to leave their pro- fession and hahit { and at the time above mentioned the prior and five monks signed the surrender. There is an account of 18 priors. The first was 3Hornisius instituted in 1194, and the last Thomas Yodson, or Godson, 7 January 1531. Burton's Monasticon, p. 265. NEWBROUGH, Situated in the parish of Coxwold, and waperi-j take of Birdforth, 5 miles N. E. offiasingwold, was the estate of Roger de Mowbray, first earl of North- umberland, raised to that dignity in 1095, and for- feited by him for rebellion, by reason of which re- volt he was confined in Windsor castle thirty years', where he died. After this the estate was given to Nigel de Albani, whose son Roger assumed the name of Mowbray, who in 1145 founded a priory here for cannos regular, of the order of St. Augus- tin. In this religious retreat lived the celebrated historian William of Newbrough ; whose history ^begins with the conquest, and concludes with the year 1197. He was a violent opposer of Geoffrey of Monmouth. The princess Margaret, In the reign of king Henry I. flourished St. Ber nard, abbot of Clareval ; a man full of devotion, and chief of many monks, some of whom he sent to England, about A. D. 1128, 28 of Henry I. ; who were honourably received by botli king and king- dom ; and particularly by Sir Walter 1'Espec ; who about A. D. 1131, allotted to some of them a solitary place in Blakemore, near Hemelac, now Helmsley, surrounded by steep hills, and covered with wood and ling, near the angles of three different vales, with each a rivulet running through them; that pas sing by where the abbey was- built being called Rie, whence this vale took its name, and this religious house was thence called the abbey of Rie-val. The descent of this valley reaches chiefly from north to south. Here William, the first abbot, (one of those monks sent by Barnard,) a man full of great virtue, and of an excellent memory, began the building of the monastery, and dedicated it to the virgin Mary ; whiclrthe said Walter 1'Espec amply endowed. Pope Alexander III., (who reigned from A. D. 1159 to 1181,) by his bull, dated A. D,. 1160, top* 422 RIBVAULX ABBET. this monastery into his immediate protection, en, joining that the cistercian order should there conti- nue for ever ; confirming to them all their possess- ions, many of which are there specified ; (being all I suppose which at that time had been given to them,) and exempted them from paying tythes ; forbidding all persons to detain any of the brethren of the house j charging all bishops not to interdict them, unless for some notorious offence ; allowing them to perform the divine office in private, although the community should happen to be under an interdict ; declaring, any person excommunicate, who should presume to steal any thing out of their lands, or to take any man thence ; and confirming all the immunities granted to them by king Henry I., and Henry II. Pope Alexander IV., (who reigned from A. D. 1254 to 1261,) confirmed their exemption from tythes^ explaining that such exemption extended also to the tythes of such newly cultivated ground as they shoulcj occupy, or be at the expense of improving. Among the numerous grants of land, &c., made to this abbey, Walter l^Espec gave the manor of Hehnsley. Peter de Ros granted the monks leave to buy fish at Redcar, and carry it through all the ways of his lordships. Roger de Mowbray gave Midel-hovet, Siclicet Salton, in Farndale ; where Edmund the hermit lived j with the other Salton, called Du Vauthave. Dugdale makes the monks to have had fifty caru- cates of land. A carucate of land was from 120 to, 180 acres, varying according to the places and cus- toms ; consequently the total amount of acres would; RIEVAULX ABBEY. 4-23 be from 6000 to 9000, according to the measurement of the carucate. At the dissolution here were 110 fodders of leadj 516 ounces of plate^ and 5 bells The valuation in 26 of Henry VIII., A. D. 1534* according to Dugdale, amounted to the sum of 278. 10s. 2d. per annum ; according to Speed 351. 14s; 6d. At the surrender here were twenty-three monks and the abbot. The site was granted in exchange for other lands^ in 30 of Henry VIII., to Thomas earl of Rutland, a descendant of Walter Espec, the founder of the ab- bey ; and by Catherine, daughter and heir of Roger earl of Rutland, (by Elizabeth, daughter and heir of the famous Sir Philip Sidney,) married to George Villiers, duke of Buckingham, who in her right be- came possessed hereof : from him it descended to his son, the second duke of Buckingham ; and from him by purchase to Sir Charles Duncombe, Knt. ; from whom it passed to his grand-nephew, Thomas Duncombe, Esq., M. P. for Morpeth, who in 1758, made one of the finest terraces in England, just on the brink of the hill that overlooks the ruins of the abbey, and a temple at each end of the walk ; from whence there is a most beautiful view of the ruins of the abbey, almost perpendicularly underneath. It is now the property of C. S. Duncombe, Esq. The first abbot, William, was instituted in 1131 ; and the last was Rowland Blyton. There were in all 31 abbots. In 1153, 18 of king Stephen, Walter Espec was buried in this abbey ; whose relict was patroness of it and Kirkham priory. 424 RIEVAULX ABBEY. Peter de Ross about 1156, was interred here ; and Henry le Scroope, by will, ordered his corpse to be buried before the altar of our lady Pitty, (Piety. ) 1328, Sir William Malbys, Knt, had a license to translate the bones of Sir John Malbys, and Agnes, his parents, from the church of Acaster Malbys, where they had been buried many years, and inter them in the conventual church of Rieval, amongst the bones of his progenitors. In 1384, Thomas de Ross was buried here in the choir, in the 17 of Richard II., Sir John de Ross was buried on the side of the choir, near the altar. Lady Mary Ross of Oryby, by will proved 29 of August, 1394, ordered her corpse to be laid by her Lusband, Sir John, in this monastery, and ordered ;100. for a marble tomb, like that of dame Marga- ret de Oryby, her mother, in Boston church. Monasticon. p. 358. Sir Walter 1'Espec took the habit of a monk in the monastery of Rievaulx ; where after two years he died, and was there buried at the entrance of the chapter on the 7 of March, A. D. 1154 ; and in the 19 of king Stephen. In 1819, the bones of Henry le Scroop were ta- ken up and buried in Helmsley church-yard, near the porch of the south door. The remains of this once splendid house are more entire and more magnificent than any in this part of the country. The nave of the church is wholly gone ; but the choir, one of its aisles, great part of the tow- er, and both the transepts, still exist. The form and xtent of this building are nearly the same with RIEVAULX ABBEY. 425 those of the abbey church of Whitby. The most ancient part appears in the transept, particularly in that part which is towards the nave ; where we see two rows of the small Norman windows, with semi- circular arches, and with bands running along the wall, above and below ; which from its general ap- pearance together with the flying buttresses of the aisle, prove the architecture to be comparatively modern. The church, instead of being east and west, approaches more to the direction of north and south ; so that the choir is at the south end, and the aisle which should have been north is on the east. Some have supposed this anomaly to have been produced at the re-building of the church ; but Drake, in his " Evenings in Autumn," thinks it was in consequence of the disposition of the ground. At the altar end of the choir a large flat stone, about nine feet long, has been raised up, which has been the altar, or part of a monument. Adjoining the ruins of the nave on the west are the remains of the cloisters, the square of which is above 100 feet each way ; one side of the square cornea close to the nave of the church, with which it must have communicated. On the opposite side stands a splendid building, extending in length toward the west 100 feet, and in breadth 30. This structure appears to have been the refectory, accompanied with a music gallery. Parallel to this, and in a line with the transept, is another extensive ruin, several feet longer than the refectory and about the same breadth, corres- -ponding with the breadth of the transept, to which it approaches j this was perhaps the dormitory, as it 3H 426 EIEFAULX ABBEY. communicated with the church ; such communication- being necessary to accommodate the monks in repair- ing from their beds to the church, for their no(t irnal devotions. This building lies partly on the south of the refectory, a space being left between, and partly on the south of the cloister square. In the west end of the dormitory, the lower part of the walls is ancient ; and is perhaps coeval with the original abbey. Beyond the dormitory,, on the west of the choir, is another range of buildings, which were probably the abbot 1 s chamber and offi- ces. The great kitchen must of course have joined the refectory. At a considerable distance north of the church is a small detached building ; and the ruins near are seen in the same direction : these are probably the remains of the infirmary and the alms- house. How beautiful is this ruin I What a speci- men of the ability, spirit, and taste, of the day in which the fabric was erected ! The light reeded pillars possessing excellence peculiar to that de- partment in architecture ; and here may be traced one of the earliest transitions from the ponderous and massy style of the Anglo-Norman. The tran- sept pillars are adorned with a species of moulding, of which probably this is the first specimen, which made its appearance in the twelfth century. There is also a combination of richness and delicacy truly admirable, both in the tower and choir ; forming Tery striking deviations from the costume of the pre- ceding ages. In the former these peculiarities con- fist of columnar decorations, terminating gracefully RIEVAULX ABBEY. 427 in what has been denominated the corbel style ; while in the latter they are prominent in the narrow lancet shaped windows ; and in the quarter adorn- ments which distinguish its eastern side. Another peculiarity in this building is, that the church is carried to the height of three stories : this has con- tributed much to its lightness and beauty. This abbey no doubt was enriched by numerous speci- mens of painted glass ; a very rare and costly em- bellishment in the twelfth century. Aelred, the third abbot of Rievaulx, wrote a chronicle, beginning with the creation, and ending with Henry I, He also wrote the life of David, king of Scotland, and other works, and died in. J167, Beneath is seen the representation of part of a tesserae, which was found in this abbey, (and formed part of a tesselated pavement,) in 1821, as workmen were clearing away rubbish, These letters seem to have been part of the sentence fl Ave Maria gratia plena ;" but as only Ave Maria gr Appears upon the tesserae, it must have joined with. 428 felEVAULX ABBEY. some other letters to complete the sentence. It wa* taken up near the high altar. At Griff, in the neighbourhood of Rievaulx, are remains of the foundations of buildings, which are supposed to have been the site of an old town. At Newlass also, now a farm house, similar remains are found in a field; and even the site of the church is said to be evident. A house called Abbot's Hagg, in the same quarter, seems to convey the idea of its having been in the possession of the abbot of Rie- vaulx, previous to the dissolution of that monastery. From the quantity of slag with which the roads are mended here, it is probable there has been an iron forge in this quarter, belonging to the monks. On the top of the hill on the east side of the abbey, is the noted terrace, made by Thomas Duncombe, Esq., in the year 1758. From this handsome lawn, nearly half a mile in length, and of ample breadth, the ruins beneath, and the valley which contains them, are seen to great advantage. This terrace is backed by plantations of trees, mingled with various shrubs, blossoming beauty, and emitting fragrance. At one end of this magnificent terrace is a circular temple, with a Tuscan colonnade ; and at the other a temple with an Ionic portico. This temple is spacious, containing handsome devices derived from the heathen mythology. On the ceiling of the room is a copy of Guidons Aurora, with the graceful hours in great brilliancy surrounding her car. In the cove of the ceiling are placed in compartments, the story of Hero and Leander : the whole by the pencil of Burnice ; who was brought over from RIEVAULX ABBEY. 429 Italy for that purpose. These artificial beauties, aided by the still superior beauties of nature, make this situation desirable, and cannot fail to gratify every one who beholds it. This temple is seen to great advantage from the margin of the Hambleton hills, from Scawton, and other places on the road to Thirsk ; and the impressions made on a refined perception, by a visit to the place, can never be obliterated. In Leland's Collectanea, vol. iv. p. 38, is a list of books which were in Rievaulx abbey ; but this work will not admit the insertion of them. It is said that after the king of Scotland had de- feated the forces of Edward II., he spoiled the monastery of Rievaulx ; and went over the York- shire wolds, destroying all before him till he came to Beverley. LINES ON RIEVAULX ABBEY. Say now proud edifice where is thy boast ; The gorgeous splendour of thy former pride, Thy various trappings of religion's garb, With all the attributes of monkish life : All vanish'd like the momentary beam Which Phoebus sheds when gliding tow'rds the west ; Anon succeeds a dark and gloomy night, And hides that beauty which his beams reveal 'd. Beneath that arch, in woeful ruins now, Perhaps some pond'rous crucifix was plac'd ; Which oft the reverential bow receiv'd Of the Cistercian inmates passing there : 430 RIEVAULX ABBEY. Or when pale moon-shine cloth'd these towers in Iighf r And every sound by solemn night was hush'd, The lone enthusiast straying from his cell, ID fearful adoration knelt him down Before the " man of sorrows" on the cross ; While through the windows beam'd the placid moon, And smil'd upon the Gothic pride within ; As to his effigy the feeling monk In holy accents falter'd out his prayer. From yon dilapidated falling tower, The consecrated bells, with son'rous sound, Dave often warn'd the heaven-devoted train To chauat the holy Virgin's matin praise; Which from their voices round the altar peal'd, Sublimely sounding through the spacious fane, Along the pillar'd church and lofty choir ; Where on the ground Mosaic beauty caught The dazzl'd eye surveying these abodes ; Reflecting back the window's dusky light, Partly obstructed by the tinted glass, Which bore devices suited to the times ; Saints, shields, and flowers, all varying in their hue ; With lineal arms of barons great in power, Patrons and firm supporters of the church. Delightful vale ! I love thy silent scenes, Thy winding river, and thy woody banks Of stately trees ; where o'er the whisp'ring leaves Appears the terrace ; there Burnice's art Seems to have vied with the fair scenes around, Yet art has fail'd, and bows to nature's work. There in the centre of the pannelPd roof Appears Aurora, goddess of the morn, With splendid equipage and shining train ; RIEVAULX ABBEY. 4S1 The laughing Hours, with cheeks of rosy tint, Move round the car where great Apollo sits ; Their radiant presence seems to crown the hills With golden light, which gilds th' expanded sea. There Hercules, for Lybia's smiling queen, Has quit his ponderous club and warlike dress ; Exchanging his accoutrements to wield The simple distaff. Smitten by her charms The conquer d hero crouches at her feet. Daring Leander, with exertion spent, Is there depicted striving with the flood ; While from the turret, watching in suspense, The lovely Hero waves her flaming torch, Which breaks upon the darkness of the night. But ah ! my muse forego the flattering thought, Nor vainly hope to paint the thrilling view Seen from the verdant lawn that spreads beyond Th' Ionian temple ; Heaven alone excels That earthly scene ! description nought avails ! Farewell ! Elysian vale, and all ye woods ; Ling'ring, I slowly leave their noble shade, And every moment hides them from my eye ; Another look, and now the vision's fled ! Yet though its rich exuberance no more Shall meet my view, though every charm should ceasg In this bleak world, and sick'ning sorrow cling Around my heart, my anxious thoughts shall oft Change their dread musing, and in fancy's mood Transport me te those lovely scenes again. G. Y. H. POCKLEY in the parish of HeUnsley, is two miles N. B. of i| 432 II ARUM. and 5 from Kirkby-Moorside, having a population of 227. This village was part of the immense possessions of Sir Walter 1'Espec, lord of the manor of Helms- ley. In this village has lately been erected at the ex- pence of Charles Slingsby Duncombe, Esq., by John Holliday, mason of Kirkby-Moorside, a neat chapel in the Gothic style ; it is dedicated to St John, and stands upon the site of an ancient man- sion, probably the residence of its proprietors be- fore the union of this manor with that of Helmsley. It was consecrated by the archbishop of York, on Tuesday 20 of October 1822, and opened for divine service on the Sunday following, by the Rev. George Dixon, vicar of Helmsley. The village is the birth place of Mr. William Bearcroft, who many years kept a boarding school at Kirkby-Moorside, he was eminent in his profes- sion, and greatly beloved by his pupils ; many of whom are useful and eminent men. Mr. Jackson the justly celebrated artist was educated by him, and some who officiate in the established church. Mr. Bearcroft has just published a work on edu- cation, called " Practical Orthography," which promises to be very useful. HARUM is in the parish of Helmsley, about 2 miles s. E. of it, 4| from Kirkby-Moorside, and 15 from Mai- ton, having a population of 190. Here is part of a once splendid fabric, called the old hall, which was perhaps the abode of the Haruins, it is used as HARUM. 433 a farm house inhabited by Mr. Chambers tenant to Charles Duncoinbe. Esq., near which is the stump of an elm tree, measuring 23 feet round, and being hollow has served the purpose of a house to hold pigs, and suckle calves in. The episcopal place of worship here is a chapel of ease to Helmsley. On the east window of it in stained glass, is a half length figure of Christ on the cross ; and on the outside of the west window, as here represented, is the following singular sculpture. The three centre characters I conjecture to be the old English letters I. H. C. ; and perhaps were intended to represent the Greek I. H.* C. : the mark over the C denoting it to be a contraction of * It is necessary here to observe that as the Greek letter H. is equivalent to E. long in the English language, the second of the three old English characters in the hi* 31 434 HABUM. the word IHCOYC, or IESOUS, (JesusJ the letter C being frequently used instead of the Greek capital S. If however we suppose the last of the three letters to represent an S, and not C ; then we have the Latin initials I. H. S., Jesuf Hominum Salvator, or Jesus the Saviour of men. With regard to the other characters, some may suppose them to be armorial bearings ; but should they be considered as hieroglyphicks, the wheel and hatchet on the left may be intended to repre- sent the circumstance of the death of Christ; the former torment, the latter death : and of those on the right, the crossf within the semicircle may de-r note the kind of death ; and the semicircle the eclipse of the sun at the crucifixion of the Saviour ; for, as the Evangelist observes, " There was dark-, ness over all the earth until the ninth hour ; aad the sun was darkened." Luke, xxiii, 44. Harum was once the residence and property of Sir William de Harum, Knight, whose ancestor* scription ought in that case to hare been an E, and not an H. In reply to that I would suggest, that the sculptor whose performance is at best but a rude imper- fect description was probably ignorant of the greek language ; but having seen th letters I H C. on some religious building, had substituted the three old English letters 1 H C supposing them to be equivalent to tfeosp he had seen. + It is well known that in ancient times, the cross wa SL very significant emblem, and \vas used to represent thfr death of Christ. Thus when St Agustine came into England, and preached the gospel to Ethelbert ki,ng of Kent, he held in his hand a flag on which was represen- ted the Saviour on the cross. Restitution of Decayed Intelligence, p. 144. BELSDALE CHAPEL. 435 ave the meadow called Gocelyngenge, laying be- tween the entrance and part of Harum meadow near the ditch or fosse of Nunnington- Raker, to Rievalx ; they gave also land to the monastery of Kirkham, and church of Helmsley, all of which Sir William confirmed. About half a mile s. w. of Harum, in a field cal- led Hall garth, are the vestiges of a once extensive building, which was probably the most ancient residence of the Harums; the field is now in the pos- session of Mr. Jonathan Taylor, whose men not long since dug up two pieces of stone, which ap- pear to have formed part of a window, and which no doubt were fragments of the ancient mansion. The waters of the Rye sink in various places above the cascade near Helmsley ; and after having gone under ground two miles, rise in a field near a place called Walk-mill, near the house occupied by Ann Wind : and the Rical sinks above the Rical bridge, near the Helmsley road ; and after having gone through the limestone rock two miles and a half, rises near the same place as the Rye, lias a stone placed in the front of it, which was ta- ken out of the wall when it was rebuilt, having a very ancient inscription ; many of its letters are doubled but being divested of the redundant ones, it contains the following latin couplet. CONDIT ECCLESIAM WjLLELMUS NOBILIS tSTAM, INTEMERATJE NOMINE SANCT.E VIRGINIS HILD^J. Which signifies lord William builds this church in 436 LE STING HAM. honour of the chaste virgin St. Hilda. Whether this Lord William was the son of Walter d'Espec, who founded Rievaulx, &c., cannot be ascertained. LESTINGHAM, tfhich is supposed to mean lasting retreat, is situa- ted in the wapentake of Ry dale, 4 miles N. w. of Kirkby-Moorside, population 225 ; having in its parish Appleton le Moor, containing a population of 276, Famdale east 455, Farndale high quarter 286, Hutton le hole 304, Rosedale west 179, and Spaunton 109 ; amounting in the whole to 1834. The village lies at the foot of a steep descent, which forms the southern boundary of it, and sepa- rates it from that beautiful country which lies be- tween it and York. From the summit of this bank the village looks as if it were built in a capacious bason ; beyond it are the moors, presenting a blue black hue, and assuming an undulating appearance, reminding a stranger of the appearance of the waves of the sea, when heaved by powerful winds, raising one after another, ready to fall in confusion on the approaching shore. The principal part of the village lies north and south. The church stands on the western extremity of it on raised ground, catching the eye of the visitor ; and to the antiquary is an object of great interest. It exhibits a specimen of the true Saxon architec- ture ; the only one in this part of the country. The east of it terminates in a semicircular recess for the LESTtNGHAM. 437 altar, resembling the tribune of the Roman basilic. It was here that Cedd, bishop of the east Saxons, or London, founded a monastery for benedictines ; about the year 648, or as some suppose 655. The church at Lestingiiam was the first which was built in this district, or at least the first of which we have any account. It was constructed of wood, and it was not till many years after that a stone one was erected upon the site of the original fabric. The occasion of the erection of a church or mon- astery here was this : Oswald, king of Northum- berland, being converted to the Christian faith, and being desirous of having his people instructed in it, sent for missionaries from Scotland for that purpose. The first that came over was discouraged, and returned to his brethren, to their monastery in the island of lona, founded by the celebrated Col- umba, and expressed his discouragement. After this Aidan was sent, in the character of bishop of Northumbria. lie laboured with great diligence and success, under the patronage of Oswald ; who was so anxious to have his people instructed in the true religion, that until Aidan had learned the lan- guage of the country, he acted as his interpreter ; a task for which he was qualified, having been long in Scotland. Being thus encouraged, Aidan invi- ted several of his countrymen to assist him in the work ; and chose a small island called Lindisfarne, now Holy Island, not far from Bainburgh, the capi- tal of Bernicia : thence they issued forth throughout the dominions of Oswald, preaching the word of God with great zeal ; whose blessing attended them ' 4S8 LESTINGHAM. many churches were built, and thousands flocked i* them. The church of Lindisfarne was both a cathedral and a monastery ; and like the monastery of lona^ it might rather be called a seminary of learning than a habitation for recluses ; and from this semm- ary preachers were sent out in every direction into the neighbouring kingdoms of Northumbria. It is probable that some of these zealous missionaries visited this district in the days of Aidan ; but we Jiave no account df any church having been built in it before the time of his successor, Finan, when the church of Lestingham was erected, as before obser- ved. The founder, Cedd, was the eldest, or at least the most eminent, of four brothers, who were all educated for the ministry, under the tuition of Aidan and his successor Finan. When Penda, prince of the middle Angles, and son of Penda king of Mer* cia, was baptized by Finan, at the royal residence near the Roman wall, about the time of his mar- riage with Alchfleda, daughter of Oswy, he desired to take some ministers along with him, to instruct his subjects in the true religion ; and Cedd was one of the four appointed for that service. Cedd had not long laboured among the Mercians, before he was called to officiate in a more conspicuous station. The east Saxons, who had been enlightened by some of the disciples of Augustine, had relapsed in-", to idolatry ; but Sigbert, their king, when on a visit to Oswy, king of Northumberland, was persuaded to receive the gospel ; and was baptized by th Jinnds of Finan. This prince having solicited * LESTINGHAM. ftupply of preachers for the instruction of his people, C'cdd was recalled out of Mercia, and sent with another to plant the gospel in Essex ; where he la- boured with success ; and some time after, bavins? occasion to visit Lindisfarne, in order to consult with Finan, the latter ordained him bishop of the east Saxons : after which he returned to his province with renewed zeal, displaying the utmost diligence in his work of establishing churches, and supplying them with ministers : but retaining a strong attach- ment to the province of Northumberland, Cedd often visited it ; his principal object in so doing is aid to have been to assist his brother Caelin, who then ministered at the court of Ethelwald, king of Deira. That prince having become acquainted with Cedd, and knowing him to be a man of piety -and worth, desired him to accept ome land for erecting a monastery, at which tiie king might fre- .queutly attend for prayer, and hearing the word ; and where at his death he might be interred. Cedd Agreed to the proposal, and chose Lestingham. Having fixed on the spot for the site of hi monastery, he resolved first of all to consecrate it by prayer, and fasting all the lent, eating nothing, except on the lord's .day, till Jhe evening^ and then only a little bread, an egg, and a small quantity of milk mingled with water ; and then beginning the building of it ; which when he had finished, institu*- ted in it the same discipline as was used at LindiSr fame. Cedd governed his diocese many years, and dying as it is said of a plague, when on a visit to Jtiis favourite .monastery, iu the year 664, was buxkuce must have formed a part of the interior. It is probable the monastery* was on the west of the church, and united with it ; as there are irregular- ities in a field not far from the present building, and an ancient road winding up to them ; and it appears that the hospital, or some other building, has stood on the north side of a wall on the N. w. of the church, where there is a depression in the earth, as if dug out for a foundation. An altar piece was lately proposed to be presen- ted to this church, by Mr. John Jackson, of London ; but some difficulties having arisen on account of the position of the windows, the design has not yet been carried into effect. If the windows of the chancel were closed within, and the light admitted from the roof, it would not only illuminate the pain- ting in a proper manner, but would dispel much of that gloom which now pervades the whole building; and without any great expense the chancel might be converted into a kind of Sanctum Sanctorum ; and rendered indescribably beautiful. His Grace the Archbishop of York and the Rev. Francis Wrangham, Archdeacon of Cleveland, have been consulted respecting it ; who are willing and * About fifty years since, the foundations of the mon- astery were razed by the sacrilegious hand of an inhabi- tant ; and the catacombs, containing the dust of many a celebrated member of the fraternity, torn up to furnish materials for fences ; leaving us to guess at the situation they had occupied. The Rev. W. Ellis, then vicar, whose indignation at the circumstance was unbounded, wrote some Latin verses on the subject, expressive of his sentiments : but they have been borne away by the stream of oblivion ; and like the ashes of the hand that wrote them they cannot be fouud. 446 LESTINGHAM. desirous that an altar piece should be placed there - 9 and are agreeable also that the necessary alteration* should be made to shew it to the best advantage. A painting of this description, from the pencil of Mr. Jackson, so eminent in his profession, cannot fail of adding considerable consequence to this an- cient fabric ; and of being of great service to this romantic and interesting village : and it is hoped that the principal inhabitants will do all they can to for- ward the object, by their influence and contributions. Mr. Jackson is a native of Lestingham, and in love to his native place, on being apprized of the publi- cation of this work, generously offered to give two plates for the use of it, engraved from his own draw- ings ; one containing a view of the church and the crypt beneath it ; and the other the ground plan of this celebrated building : these plates I have thankfully accepted; and consider the work as highly embellished by the acquisition of them. Lestingham is also the birth place of the Rev. Thomas Brown, who wrote a volume of poems ; in which he has given such excellent specimens of the Yorkshire dialect. Dowthwaite dale, the residence of William Shep- herd, Esq., nephew to John Shepherd, Esq., of Muscoates, is in the parish of Lestingham. It is situated at the northern extremity of a romantic val- ley, through which the river Dove, or Do we, winds its course. The valley is narrow, with a steep hill on either side, covered with wood ; the summit of their elevation being between two and three hund- red feet from the bed of the beck. From Cockshot ANTIQUITIES ON THE MOORS. 447 hill, about a mile and a half N. E. of Kirkby-Moor- side, is a fiiie view of the house ; the moors forming the back ground ; which from the view had of them from that station, look majestic ; one hilL retiring behind another, until the prospect is terminated by the horizon. On a bold projection called Shepherd's Knal>, on the right of this mansion, is a great number of oblong tumuli, ranged some east and west, others north and south, irregularly scattered over several acres of ground : I had one of them opened, and Mr. Shepherd had another ; but there were no remains in them, nor was the colour of the earth changed by lire. They are nearly flat 011 the top, and not more than two or three feet thick. Some of them are perhaps 10 jards by 5 or 6, some more and some loss : the tradition of them is that they were thrown wp for rabbit burrows. ANTIQUITIES ON THE MOORS. ANCIENT BRITISH SETTLEMENTS. In Scotland there are a number of circular huts, which the people call Druid's houses ; and on the moors not far from Kirkby-Moorside, and on the hills, &c. facing the plain of Cleveland are some resembling them, which no doubt have been for the same purpose. They are of different sizes, and in some places they are not round but of various shapes ; according perhaps to the different ideas which the ancient Britons had imbibed from their intercourse with strangers, which often, as frieudf 448 ATIQUJTIES OX THE MOORS. or enemies, visited this kingdom. It does not re- quire much discernment to form an idea of the manner on which these huts or houses were con- structed. A hole, many of which remain in different parts of this kingdom, was dug in the ground which formed the site of it, and the materials dug out of the excavation of it were laid round as a border which would keep the water from entering into it. In this mound were placed poles which met at the top, like a cone resembling a sugar loaf. These poles were intersected or crossed with twigs, form- ing 1 a kind of basket work ; over this was placed straw, grass, or hay, and upon all probably turf, to prevent the Avet from entering ; and on one side was an opening as a door, out of which the smoke escaped, and the light was admitted. The fire was placed in the middle of the floor, and some straw, hay, or grass, strewed round it, would fur- nish the inhabitants with seats by day and beds by night. These settlements were not all of a size, but of different dimensions, like our little towns and villa- ges ; and some of the druids who lived a hermit's life, would live in solitary ones ; and in some places two or three would be together. In some places are discovered numbers of them, in a cluster forming a vacant place in the centre, which might be a place for their cattle ; those sta- tions were probably encompassed with a fence of wood. These settlemants have frequently houes accompanying them, which were the depositories of the dead; and at some stations are large pits; one at each station probably may have been for the residence of their chief. They had their places of tvorship also, and their officiating priests ; who were very numerous and powerful amongst them. These settlements bear all the marks of antiquity. From their stations being connected with hones and druidical stones, which in some places yet re- main, they appear to have been prior to the intro- duction of Christianity into this island ; they cannot be traced to the Danes or Saxons, as such they inut ANCIENT BRITISH SETTLEMENTS. 44 be ancient British, the abodes of the warlike Brig- antes who dwelt here, or the arrival of the Romans and of other tribes still more ancient, but others may have been built since the Roman invasion, especially those which are of an oblong form and are encompassed by stones, which is the case at the Stone hags, their hilts are similar to those in other countries which the ancient Britons inhabited ; and barbarous nations to the present day build in a si- milar manner. The first person who viewed the pits in this district in this light was Mr. Bird of Whitby, since which many have visited them, and antiquarians are agreed on the subject. The first station of these ancient remains from Kirkby-Moorside, is that called the stone hag,* on the east side of Farndale on the Blakey-Moor, four miles south of Ralph Cross, close to the road between Castleton and Kirkby-Moorside, this clus- ter is 400 feet long from north to south and three hundred feet broad from east to west, the area is wholly occupied with pits which are varied in their form and differ from all other stations ; some of them are round, some oval, some resembling a half moon, and are in general of a large size, both in breadth and depth. Vestiges of buildings are very evident, and in some places the houes seem to have been divided, and almost opposite the stone hags, on the west side of Farndale. On the side of the hill a row of round pits extend to a great distance, which probably had been huts for soldiers, when on their watch ; and not far from them is a protuberance called the Urn Knab, on which is a very strong trench, which runs across it, and must have been a strong place of defence. The knab is almost inaccessible on three sides, the south north and east ; and the west part has been de- fended by a high mound and .deep ditch, partly of stone, and partly of earth, having a houe in the mid" die of the garrison ; and there is a tradition that a battle was fought near, between the English and the Scots. * The word Hag. signifies broken on u?eu 3L 450 ANTIQUITIES ON THE MOORS. These pits are very numerous in some places, and are found in a variety of situations, as on the hills of Cleveland, facing the plain : on Rosebury Topping, in Troutsdale, on the side next to Basin houe, and Scamridge, in Egtongrange, ten mile* from Whitby, about a furlong to the right of the road, on a rising ground near the edge of the moor. Some upright stones are seen on the s. E., probably the fragments of a druidical temple ; and several houes are near. Others are seen about a mile to the south of Godeland chapel : they are known by the name of Killing pits, from a tradition that a battle was fought there. Another in Harewood dale, about half a mile north from the chapel, the spot is termed the Dryheads. There is another large collection of circular cavities, termed the Hole pits in Westerdale : a few yards s. w. of the chapel, in the centre of them, has been an open area. There is another cluster within the rabbit warren of Mr. Herbert, at Scamridge, near Ebberston. . fr ' ' >t p.t ; HOUES. The houes were the ancient repositories of thp dead. It is well known by those who are acquainted \vith ancient history that before the introduction of Christianity, there were no places for the dead like our church-yards ; but they were interred in places most convenient for the purpose, and respect for deceased friends and relatives, induced the sur- vivors to raise over the remains of their departed friends, heaps of earth, which by us are called houes, and which differ in size and form, according to the rank of the deceased, or the fashion of different ages or tribes. The bodies were sometimes burnt to ashes, and their ashes put into an urn, were placed upon the earth, and the houe was raised up- on them. Some houes contain one each and others many. The urns are made of clay slightly baked, so that they fall to pieces by the slightest touch. Some- times one urn is found within another, perhaps containing the ashes of the heart* The rule of ** *. . .v. . - TRENCHES, CAMPS, &C. 451 burning bodies had its exceptions, as entire skele- tons have heen sometimes found. Perhaps it is not easy to ascertain to which of the heathen tribes, which inhabited this neighbourhood, the raising of these ho lies is to be attributed : perhaps some made some of them, and others the remainder. Is is thought they cannot be ascribed to the Ro- taans, as they abound in those parts of the British isles where the Romans had no permanent station ; nor was it their mode of burial : nor to the Saxons or Danes, as they are found in parts of Britain which were never subject to either ; but they, at least the greater part of them, must have been raised by the ancient Britons ; as they are found in con- nexion with other antiquities, which must have belonged to them. Perhaps some of those hills called tumuli, were watch towers ; some for the purpose of tribunals, and some of them places of worship, which is sup- posed to be the case with those encircled with upright stones. The houes in this district are known by different names, as Green houe, and Blake houe, corrupted into Blakey ; and many from the names of men, &c. TRENCHES, CAMPS, &C. We scarcely can ascend any eminence on the edge of the moors, but we perceive vestiges of defence, made in the ages of cruelty and bloodshed ; some- times the rampart is found only, the earth thrown out of the ditch, and sometimes stones are connect- ed, to check the progress of an invading enemy ; or for the convenience of being kept from being ta- ken by surprise. They are in a commanding sit- uation, from which they could see the movements of an enemy, or make a stand against them should they be attacked. They no doubt were the camps of the ancient British tribes, who always encamped on mountains ; and as this district was the scene of conflict between the Romans and Brigantes, we need not wonder at those warlike preparations being 452 ANTIQUITIES ON THE MOORS. found here. Some camps of the ancient Briton* are found in a p'ace called Crown end, on the N. E. angle of the hill between Westerdale and Basedale ; another cluster vt as discovered about a mile to the south of Danby castle ; and it is thought by Mr. Young, that the low rude stones on Sleight's moor* near the verge of the cliffs above Eskdaleside, are the remains of similar camps, and says, "This camp, is over against a small Roman camp on Livesham moor, little more than a mile distant ; and that the Vestiges of an ancient road from the Roman camp to the ridge on which this camp stands, but con- siderably to the north of it, is very discernible." It i si- likely from this circumstance that all the camps now enumerated, from their square form, may have be- longed to the Romanized Britons. The rouncj camps which are sometimes met with, are of more ancient date, analagous to the houe pits and crater houes. There is a round fort at Cropton, which looks, like a very large tumulus. An old hall formerly stood near it, from which the fort is called Hail garth hill ; and in the direction towards the valley we findother vestiges of strength, defending the ap- proach from the plain. These forts are unquestion- ably British. The military remains of the Romans cannot fail to interest the lovers of antiquity ; and the Moors furnish us with the military remains of that warlike and enterprising people ; as the Qswy's dikes at Scamridge, which began about a mile to the west of Basin houe where we find five large ditches, with their ramparts to a great extent. On the N. w. of those extensive lines, we find another commen- cing on the brink of Troutsdale near higji Scam- ridge ; they consist of four vast ditches and four ramparts. 'At Cawthorn, which is a high and commanding, situation, are Roman camps, the most entire and beautiful of any in this district, and haying seen them, we cannot help feeling sensations of astonish- ment ; .there are others in the district larger, but of TRENCHES, CAMPS, &C. 45$ the kind they are beautiful and regular, they are four in number and well fortified, they are sup- posed to be the camps of the Romans and their auxiliaries ; perhaps it was a camp of the 9th le- gion in the time of Agricola ; f r we hear no more pf the 9th legion in Britain after that period. Those camps must have contained an immense army ; as the largest of them presents an area of 560 feet by 550 ; and the remainder are not very inferior. Though this camp passes the Roman military road which commencing at York, terminated at Dunsley, near Whitby, the road is supposed to have issu- ed from York near Monk Bar, and to have proceed- ed towards Malton nearly in a line of the present public road from Malton ; or perhaps about a mile to the south of New Malton, it turned a little to the right and passed by Broughton and Amerby, near Appleton-le-street and crossing the Rye about New- some bridge went on to the Barugh, where th ere waai a small camp : from thence it advanced to Caw-, thorn, and passing through that village, (where part of it was visible some years ago,) it has pro- ceeded nearly to the brow of the hill, and then turned eastward to the camps ; where we perceive it very distinctly approaching the camp from the west, and passing through one of them; after which it passes the end of another and running northward it descends the hill in a hollow place or slack ; after that it is lost for some distance, but met wjth again on the mopr ; and after losing it in some Cultivated fields adjoining a farm house, we find it beyond them in great perfection, running- nearly in a straight line towards a hamlet named Stape, in descending to which it again becomes invisible, but is recovered on the other side. At Stape it crosses the present road, between Pickering? and Egton, an4 passes by Mauly cross, which is 175 feet to the right ; and continues very perceptible except in a few places, for several miles, descending a gently sloping hill, passing through a small iu- jelosure, near a house on the Egton road f crossing 454 ANTIQUITIES OX THE MOORS. Wheeldale beck, and rising on the opposite moor ; where the Egton road diverges from it to the left, between Wheeldale moor and Hazlehead, passing in front of the houes and along the green. After crossing the green and passing through a small in- closure, the road goes along the moor, where it is very conspicuous, till it is again cut off by inclo- sures. It disappears in crossing Gram beck, beyond which it has turned to the right, toward July park, where we find a part of it west of the houes, point- ing towards an inclosure through which it had passed. Between July park and Lease rigg, few traces of the road are met with, but it has proceeded in, that direction. On Lease rigg several portions of the causeway are visible ; and here on an eleva- ted part of the ridge, is a Roman camp, of a rhom- boidal shape, but with the east corner rounded away to suit the ground. From this camp the road has descended down the ridge for a considerable dis- tance, and then bent its course^in a slanting direc- tion towards Grawmond bridge. Here it has cross- ed the Esk and some remains of it are seen on the west side of Grawmond priory. From thence it has passed by Newbegin to Aislaby moor, where we find some traces of it near the edge of the quarries, about a mile west of Aislaby. The last portion we meet with is at the place where it has been crossed by the Gisborough road, above 100 yards below the third mile stone. As this fragment points towards Dunsley, and as the road was traced thither in time of Drake, it must have led to Dunsley ; though it is probable a branch of it led to Whitby. Mr. Young, who traced this road, and of whose description I have availed myself, observes that the breadth of the road, exclusive of the gutters, one on either side to keep it dry, is 16 feet. A stone was dug up at Peak, between Whitby and Scarborough in 1774, which is supposed to demonstrate the existence of a Roman fort there, probably belonging to a chain of forts erected along ike last to repel the incursions of the Saxons And ANCIENT CROSSES. 455 other pirates. It is the only inscription yet dis- covered which records the erection of a Roman fort under the name Castrum, and records the name of Justinianus or Justinian, which occurs on no other monument found in Britain. There was one Roman officer of that name, which is mentioned in ancient history, under Constantine, whom the legions in Britain raised to the imperial dignity, in A. D. 407 or 408. This perhaps may have been the same person who was governor of Maxima Csesariensfs, the province in which this district was included for some time prior to the usurpation of Constan- tine. From this inscription, and other circumstan- ces, there is reason to believe that a Roman road must have passed along the Whitby coast, connect- ing all the maritime stations there. ANCIENT CROSSES. These were often used for superstitious purposes, and may be considered as referring to a very ancient date. Several of them are seen on the moors, many of which are by the highways ; and in some places they are gone, and only their names left ; which they have bequeathed to the places where they stood. These crosses were referrable to a variety of pur- poses : they were intended for significant remem- brances to perpetuate the memory of heroic actions, of murders, of the interment of the pious, and some to determine the extent of property and of right ; and others were erected in honour of august per- sonages, whose spirits had quitted their earthly habitation : they were erected in places where their Bodies had been rested, during the procession to the grave. About a mile from Northampton, there is a handsome cross erected in memory of the body of queen Eleanor, which was rested there : and some marked out the limits of sanctuary, as three near Ripon. Numbers stood in market places, or in situations where markets were held, to awe the tra- ders into honesty ; and great numbers stood in, churchyards, where they were used for superstitious iflNERALdGT. purposes. Processions were made to them on Sunday, and devotees crept towards them and kiss- ed them, on Good Friday ; so that the presence of a cross was considered as necessary in every burying place. Those crosses on the moors may be to per- petuate the remembrance of murders, or accidents ; particularly those which bear the names of men, as John cross, Mauley cross, Percy cross,&c. Those on the way side may mark the spots where corpses have been rested, as one near Egton, another besides Sleights, and another on the north of Stokesby : of these crosses only the pedestals remain. Some think that many of them were in- tended to aid the devotion of passengers, particular- ly when they came in sight of a monastery. Such were the uses of those remains of antiquity, and another is also assigned to them ; that seculars sometimes attempted to spiritualize their estates by planting crosses round them ; claiming the privi- leges of the Templars and Hospitallers, to the pre- judice of the chief lord of the see. To put a stop to these abuses, it was enacted (13 of king Edward I.) that such lands should be forfeited. -Gough's Cain- den, ii. p. 236. Those pillars Avere various in their construction and shape. Some were plain, others were carved aud surmounted by capitals, on which crucifixes and other figures were sculptured, with the figure of the lamb, &c. Such were the represen- tations on those crosses ; but those times in which they were important are gone ; and more rational dependence for salvation is adopted. Monuments for the dead are indeed yet used, and pillars to per- petuate bold and successful achievements, are yet adopted : but those which were referrable to super- stition, are no longer seen for the purpose for which they once stood : their remains only shew the state of society when they were revered, and inspire the contemplative mind with gratitude, for living in more enlightened times. MINERALOGY. . The mountainous tract in this district, is bounded l>y the plain of Cleveland on the north and west, MINERALOGY. 457 tind by the vale of Pickering on the south. This high and extended situation may he divided into four parrallel ridges gradually rising from the south, and falling abrubtly in steep cliffs to wards the north. The first of these ridges begins at the vale of the Esk, and includes Gillamoor, Spaunton, Caw thorne, Saltergate, Crosscliff, Laugdale, Selph- houe, Seamer, and extends nearly to Scarborough. These hills are similar in height, and regular in their abrupt northern descent, forming the same angle \vith the horizon. They have the same smooth ap- pearance wearing a covering of short ling and moss, rarely presenting any broken ground or ua- ked rock. The second ridge is extensive and forms the central and most elevated part of the Moors, in- cluding Cranimoor, Coldmoor, Burtonhead, Ralph- cross, Cockheads, Silhoue, Lillacross, and ends at Peak. The western part of this ridge is far the most lofty, the heights at Cockhead and Ralphcrosa being 1400 feet above the level of the sea ; Burton- head 1485 feet, and Cranimoor upwards of 1500 feet. A spectator at Cranimoor, can observe the sea, over the summit of Rosebury. This ridge is of great breadth it reaches from Danby-dale, to the valley of Lestingham and Hutton, comprehending the moors of Aislaby and Danby. The third ridge is separated from the second by the vales of the Esk, Commondale and Kildale, and from the fourth by Dale-house, Lofthouse, SkeU ton and Guisborough. The fourth begins at the western extremity of Barnaby-moor, and terminates at the lofty cliffs of Boulby. The highest parts of this ridge, are Easington height, Huntcliff, Burleighmoor, and Eston knab, which rises from six hundred to eight hundred feet above the level of the sea. That ridge on which Kirkby-Moorside is built, is of the limestone formation, which like all other rocks in this district are of a secondary description, which are seldom parrallel to the horizon, but ffe,, 458 . MINERALOGY. nerally dip towards the south, the strata of which is thickest and most inclined in the highest situations. In pursuing our investigations relative to the nature of the rock in the vicinity of Kirkby-Moorside, we may observe that though the substratum which forms the range of hills on which Kirkby Moorside js situated, may be called limestone, it notwithstand- ing consists of alternate strata of limestone, marl, and sandstone, resting on beds of clay slate, of a coarse granular texture, and light grey colour. This slate lies over the upper strata of the sandstone series, which sinks beneath it. For the limestone series has the same inclination as the sandstone formation, it dips towards the south till it sinks into the vale of Pickering, beyond which .another series appears in the chalk strata of the Wolds. This limestone is principally of the oolite spe- cies, mixed with strata of the more compact des- cription of various shades of blue, from light blue to that almost approaching to black. At Gillamoor, about 3 miles to the north of Kirk- -by-Moorside, is a height called Gillamoor bank, about 500 feet in elevation, which contains a stone of a mixed nature, of a greyish colour, with patches of blue which partake of a mixture of sandstone and limestone ; the blue part contains most calcari- ous matter, and effervesses more freely in acid than the grey. Afteryou descend the Gillamoor bank, the ground rises to the moors; here the sandstone appears from under the limestone series and pervades the whole of the moors. This sandstone is more oj Jess sili- cious, it differs in texture and hardness, some soft and friable, and others adapted for the .purpose of building. On a part of the moor, near a place called Park corner, on the west side of Farndale, are nodules of ironstone, of a peculiarly cavernous nature, some of them are like flattened hemispheres, having on the horrizontal side several cells so con- structed as to give you an idea of a lady's work box, with compartments for holding her cotton, &c. At this place are a considerable number of pits, which PETRIFACTION*. 459 tradition says were made by extracting ironstone. On the right hand side of the road leading to the low mill in Farndale, is a hill, something like a small houe, the end of which being removed, it proved to contain cinders or slag, produced by no- dules of ironstone, similar to those at park corner. The hill bears all the marks of antiquity, being over- grown with ling, and appearing like the other parts of the moor. To the left of the road, not far from this heap of cinders, is a quarry of sandstone, work- ed for the purpose of procuring flags, &c. inAvhich is contained iron pyrites, some of it in veins and other parts in kidney shaped nodules, formed by several lamina, placed one over the other, like the coats of an onion, with a yellow neuclus. In the recent fracture the nodule presents various colours. On this moor are various coalpits ; and above the coal seam there usually occur beds of silicious sandstone, twenty, thirty, or forty feet in thickness. Over- this stratum, bituminous shale and sandstone rise in alternate beds to the top of the hills. No- dules of rich ironstone abound in this shale; some of them are of the granulated kind, in which the green specks that often occur seem to indicate the presence of copper. In the upper end of Tripsdale, a branch of Bils- dale, is a bed of bituminous chistus, of a dark brown colour and soapy feel. It is easily divided into thin plates, which are used by the inhabitants of the neighbouring vales for baking cakes. These slates are soft and elastic when first dug out, but are prepared by roasting them in hot turf ashes ; after which they will bear the heat of a common fire for several years. PETRIFACTIONS. In the oolitic limestone of this district is a great variety of organic remains. About the middle of the limestone series is a thick bed, composed partly of petrified shells, or the remains of marine animals. These remains are of various descriptions, which 460 ZOOPHYTES. will be seen by the following account. I have com- pared the specimens I have collected with the ac- count given by Mr. Young and Mr. Bird, in their " Geological survey of the Yorkshire coast," and find them and their account to agree. In pursuing this subject, I shall attend to the following ar- rangement and classification : ZOOPHYTES. Zoophytes^ or animal plants, partake of the cha- racter of animals and vegetables. This order of animals comprehends the whole of those bony sub- Stances denominated corals, great quantities of which are found in a fossil state. We cannot expect to find any in this state but such as are coreaceous,orofa firm substance. The animals and vegetables usually found petrified are such as are naturally hard ; as the shells of testacious and crustaceous animals the bones and teeth of fishes and quadrupeds ; the ligneous parts of shrubs and trees, with the hard stalks and leaves of ferns and reeds ; the corals are divided into various genera as tubepores, madrepores, cellipores, &c. tubepores often occur in the alluvial beds, chiefly in nodules of limestone. The madrepores, which are distinguished into simple and compound, the former shewing only one star, and the latter many, are found in this dis- trict, both in the oolite and chalk. Many of the simple madrepores bear a resem- blance to mushrooms, pears, and other fruit, rising up from a stalk by which they appear to have been fixed, having a cavity in the upper surface : we have various kinds in the oolite at Kirkby-Moorside, Helmsley and Malton. Here are also specimens of what are called alcyonites, being regarded as petrified alcyonia ; some are of an oblong form like cucumbers ; they are a species of coral. ECHINITES. These are clearly allied to the zoophyte family. ECHINITES. 461 The Echinus is an animal of a roundish form, co- vered with a kind of a shell or crust ; which in the recent state is beset with rows of spines, and mark- ed with rows of pores, disposed in avinuls. It has a flat base, somewhat concave, in which the mouth is always situated. The vent is variously placed, and the whole family is divided into three classes according to its situation : the anocystic, which have the vent in the centre of the upper part. The catocysti which have it in some part of the base; and the pleurocysti, which have it in the side or upper surface. Some species of all these occur in this district. The cidaris papillata, the cidaris diadema, the coranginum, and other's are found here and at Mai- ton. SHELLS. Shells are divided into three classes, multivalves, bivalves, and univalves ; the last class is subdivided into unilocutor, having only one chamber or cavity and multilocutor, having several chambers. The multivalve class is scarce, containing only the lepas or barnacle, and the chiton ; to which some add the pholas, which besides two principal valves has small accessary ones, upon the hinge and posterior slope. BIVALVES. These shells appear in immense numbers, many of them corresponding with the recent marine pro- duction. The petrified shells are generally much thicker than the, recent ones, from which it appears that the petrified ones have expanded in the process they have undergone. All the shells we find in the limestone are not petrified, but some of them are preserved. I had an oyster shell from the rock on the top of Cock- shot hill, near Kirkby-Moorside, retaining the ena- mel on the inside of the valve, and appearing near- ly as perfect as when it contained the fish in it. 462 PETRIFIED SHELLS. Of the remainder of the shells discovered in \ petrified state in this neighbourhood, I shall do little more then name some of the genera, as the* limits of this work will not admit of elaborate dis- cussion. Thdse which I shall name, will be ac- cording to the subsequent arrangement. Solon or razor shelf, the species of which in the limestone are numerous, as well as in the calcariou* sandstone, in which we often see large specimens of the solon silqua. Mytilus, Muscle. Of this genus the mytilus, litho- phagus, or stone eater, which like the pholas, biuv rows in rocks, and often in corals is found imbbeded in the oolite at Malton and other places. The muscle edulis or common muscle is very plentiful in the same rock. The mya, gaper, is also plentiful. Donax, Wedgeshett, is another produced in the. limestone rock ; also a shell of the douax family, called plagiostoma or wrymouth, which is different from the other species of that genus, as well as thet plagiostoma rigida. Trigonia which is somewhat akin to the plagi- ostoma, as it is also to the Venus, the Area, the Mytilus and the Tilina. Some species of the Triogonia have been found in the oolite and calcarious sandstone, near Kirkby- Moorside, which Mr. Young calls Trigonia clavel- lata, which from its shape appears to be akin to the mytilus or muscle family. I have a mass or shells of this description, of a very considerable; size, imbedded in a matrix of oolitic- limestone, which I found in Catterbeck in deepdale ; the stratum containing them forms the bed of the beck^ and by the constant action of the water on them, the stony matter is partly washed out from the con- cavity of the valves so as to make the edges of them appear in their natural state. The water after heavy rains running down the beck in a strong current, sometimes loosens the rock beneath, and washes up masses of these shells in the limestone of amazing size. These shells when in their more perfect state, are handsomely studded with tubercles disposed iix rows. tJNIVALVE SHELLS. 463 Cordium, Cockle. These are found in abun- dance at Deepdale, about one mile and a half to the eastward of Kirkby Moorside and at Cockshot- hill, about a mile to the north-east of it. Tellina, may be found in the same situations, as well as the Anomina and the Venus, which is a beautiful little shell. The Chama and Area are not so plentiful in this district ; but a, few specimens of them have beea discovered. Pecten, Scollop. No shells are much more com- mon in this neighbourhood, then those of this genus. Ostrea, Oyster. Various specimens of this des- cription, present themselves to the geologist, in his investigation of the rocks before named. UNIVALVE SHELLS. Buccinum, Welk. Specimens of these are scarce. Turbo, Wreath or Whirl. Under this genus may be placed several shells found in the oolite^ some of which belong to the new genus. Melania. Some specimens are long and large, and are what some authors call screw shells ; they form a considerable portion of some of our fossil stone. Deepdale is tire most prolific place for them, as well for others of almost every description, which are peculiar to limestone districts. Trochus, Topshell. Specimens of this genus are rarely to be found here. Nerita, Nerite. A shell of the whirl kind, as well as the dentalium or toothshell, and serpula, afford many specimens. MULTILOCULAR SHELLS. r \ Which includes ammonites, nautilites dhd Be- lemnites, are included under this denomination, iia all of which the shell is divided internally into nu- merous chambers. The nautilus is seldom if ever seen. ( 464 ) BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. " By recording the lives and actions of the good, those who come after them have encouragement to imitate their virtues ; and nothing more inciteth the mind of man to to an emulation of others than to hear the report of their noble achievements." Ailred ofRievaulx, preface to the life of Edward the Confessor. ROGER DODSWORTH. Roger Dodsworth, the indefatigable collector and eminent antiquary, was born at Newton Grange, in the parish of Oswaldkirk, on the 24 of April, 1585, as appears from the parish register. He was the son of Matthew Dodsworth, Esq., registrar of York .cathedral, and chancellor to archbishop Matthews ; and his mother was Eleanor, daughter of Ralph Sandwith, Esq., in whose house at Newton Grange, he states himself to have been born. He was the principal compiler of the Mona&ticon Anglicanum ; and possessed of such incredible in- dustry and unwearied research, that he did not let any manuscript that came to his hands escape, with- out turning it over and carefully examining it ; by which means he very often met with fragments of our history that would otherwise have escaped his knowledge ; as many of these are preserved in the Monasticon, so there is still a far larger quantity ]eft behind, as yet unpublished, in his collections, (comprised in 162 vols., most of them in folio, and 120 of them in his own writing,) preserved in the Bodleian library at Oxford. " I never," says Hearne, inatransport of antiquarian enthusiasm, " look upon these collections (and I have frequent occasion to inspect them,) without the utmost surprise and won- tfODSWORTH. tier, and I cannot but bless Grod that he was pleased Out of his infinite goodness and mercy, to raise lip so pious and diligent a person that should by hid blessing, so effectually discover and preserve siieU a noble treasure of antiquities, as is contained lit these volumes. He prepared nothing for" the press himself, ex- cepting the two first volumes of the Monasticon J but before the work was far advanced by the JP'rin- ters, he was cut off by death, and then the correct- ing part fell upon the equally famous Sir Williairi Dugdale. What had been published before about our religious houses is extremely slight and imper- fect. But in this great work there is a most noble account, extracted from the most authentic ledger books, registers, and other records of the most con^ siderable of the religious houses, and all is done with so much fidelity, and in so good a method, that there is nothing but what is commendable in it* The immense mass of information comprised int the 162 vols. folio of MSS. lodged in the Bodleian Library, are lasting memorials what this county owes to him, as the volumes of the Monasticon, (which though published under his and Dugdale'sl names conjointly, were both collected and written totally by him) will immortalize that extensive in- dustry which has laid the whole kingdom under" obligation. The patronage of General Fairfax preserved this treasure, and bequeathed it to the* library where it is now lodged, at a most critical time, when the revolutionary spirit of the age threatened, under the Commonwealth, the ex- tinction of every ancient record. Fairfax allowed Dodsworth a yearly salary to preserve the inscrip- tions in churches, and it is owing to his patronage that we are indebted for the preservation of so ma^ ny invaluable memorials, as well as tho^e noble" relics of antiquity, which the rage of his party had doomed to destruction. Dodsworth died in Aiigust, 1654, at the advanced ttge of 69 ; and was buried at Rufford in Lancashire. --Authorities, Biog. Diet. Gougb's anecdotes oi* 3 N 466 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. Topography. Hearne's preface to Browne. Willis* view of the mitred abbeys, published in his edition of Leland's collect, vi. 78. DEAN COMBER. The Rev. Thomas Comber, D. D., Dean of Durham, was bom at Westerham, in Kent, on the 19th March, 1644. He was descended from an an- cient family of that name, at Bark ham in Sussex, an ancestor of whom, de C ombre obtained from William the Conqueror, the manor of Barkham, as a reward for his valour, in slaying its Saxon or Danish lord, at the famous battle of Hastings. The subject of the present Biographical sketch was the son of Mr. James Comber, by Mary, widow of Mr. Edward Hampden, of Westerham, and daughter of Mr. Bryan Burton, of the same place. During the first years of his life, he laboured under such bodily weakness that he was not able to walk alone, until he was four years of age ; but by the extraordinary care of his mother his health was restored. To this exemplary parent he was further indebted, as he himself observes, for all the religious education which seasoned his youth, and all the first steps to his future preferment : so tender indeed was she of him that her whole life was de- dicated to his improvement in learning and virtue. After this auspicious beginning under the maternal roof (from which, like himself, so many other great men have dated their future eminence,) he received his classical education in his native village, from whence he was sent to the university of Cambridge, at the early age of fourteen. He was admitted a student of Sydney Sussex college, in 1659, and under the care of the Rev. Edward Matthews, the senior fellow, and president of that society, made that rapid progress in his literary and theological studies of which his previous diligence had given so fair a promise. He took his degree of B. A. 1662, and of M. A. 1666. Two years previous to tis obtaining this last honour, he was ordained fcEAN COMBfcR. 467 Beacon at the early age of nineteen, and became assistant to the Rev. William Holland, Rector of All Hallows, London ; soon after which he came into Yorkshire, as curate to the Rev. Gilbert Ben- net, of Stonegrave, At the particular request of Mr. Thornton, a gentleman of considerable pro- perty in his parish, he became shortly after his arrival in Yorkshire, an inmate of that gentleman's house at East Newton. He married Alice, daughter of Mr. Thornton, through whom the Newton estate subsequently passed into the family of the Combers, after having been in that of the Thorntons from the time of Edward I. In 1669, he was instituted in the rectory at Stonegrave, on the resignation of the Rev. Mr. Bennet ; and about this time seems to have been engaged in the composition of his great work, the first part of which appeared about two years after, under the title of a " Companion to the Temple; being a learned, laborious, and admirable commen- tary and exposition of the Liturgy of the Church of England." He was created Doctor in Divinity, between the years 1676 aud 1679, according to the most proba- ble surmises, by a diploma from Lambeth. In the year 1677, he was collated by Archbishop Sterne, to the prebend of Helme, in the Cathedrajl Church of York ; which in 1681, he quitted for the prebend of Fenton, in the same church. In the year 1683-4, he was also collated to the precentorship of York , which he resigned, being nominated to the Deanery of Durham, in 1691. Doctor Comber had also the honour of being chaplain, to the Princess Anne of Denmark, and to King William, and Queen Mary. To these successive preferments, the princi- pal recommendation appears to have been the res- pectability and excellence of his character, and the zeal of his labours, in defending and in illustrating the principles and formularies of the established church. Doctor Comber maintained an extensive correspondence with Archbishop Tillotson, Sharp, Jkirnet, Ilickes, Cave, Lake, and other eminent 468 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. cotemporary divines ; of which an interesting and entertaining account and specimens are given in the memoirs of his life and writings, published by his great grandson and namesake, the Rev. Thomas Comber, the present rector of Oswaldkirk. His elegant and pleasing retirement at East Newton, which seems so fully to have realized the? eloquent description of the author of " the Sea- sons,"* gave rise to various other theological works, amongst which we may enumerate, " Roman For- geries in the councils during the first four centuries, together with an appendix concerning the forgeries pnd errors in the annals of Baronies," 1689, 4to. " Friendly and seasonable advice to the Roman Cathojics of England, by a charitable hand," in 12mo, with " an addition of the most convincing instances and authorities, and the testimony of their own writers for the same." Dean Comber also edited *' Christus Triumphans" of Fox ; and pub- lished at different times various single sermons on Important subjects. He died on the 25th November, 1699, at the comparatively early age of 55, to the inexpressible regret of all his friends, and in the very flower of his hopes : when his credit as an eminent divine, was fully established, and he was making rapid ad- vances to the highest ecclesiastical honours. But though the duration of his life was short, yet it be- came in effect long, by having had each hour of it actively and usefully employed, and he sunk into the grave, ripe in good works, and rich in virtue. He was buried at his particular request, within the altar rails of the parish church of Stonegrave, neay the remains of that exemplary parent to whom he pwed so much, and whom he himself describes as the most affectionate mother in the world." A handspnie slab of black marble cpvers his re-* * <' An elegant sufficiency, content, ** Retirement, rural quiet, friendship, books, *' Ease acd alternate labour, useful life, M Prpgresshe rirtue, and approying Heaven.'* LORD FAIRFAX. 469 inains, bearing an elegant latin inscription, com- posed by his friend, the Rev. Mr. Milner, minor canon of the cathedral church of Durham, LORD FAIRFAX. Thomas Lord Fairfax, the distinguished general of the parliament in the civil war of Charles I., was the eldest son of Ferdinando lord Fairfax, at whose seat of Denton, in Yorkshire, he was born in 1611. He received an academical education, at St. John's college, Cambridge ; but his disposition inclining him rather to an active than a studious life ; he went to Holland and served as a volunteer in the English troops, uuder Horatio lord Vere, with whom he was at the taking of Boys-le-duc. On his return he married a daughter of Lord Vere's and settled in the country. When the discontents of the reign broke out, he took a decided part against the royal party in church and state, in which lie followed the example of his father, and was also instigated by his wife, a zealous presbyterian. He presented a popular petition to the king, on Hey- worth-Moor, in the presence of a large body of the people ; and when actual hostilities commenced, ho had a commission from the parliament to serve as general of horse under his father, who was ap" pointed their commander in the north. He was soon actively engaged against the earl of Newcastle and the other royalists in those parts, and in con-, sequence of inferiority, suffered several defeats, though he always behaved with distinguished valour, and speedily repaired his losses, and returned to action. His father and he were completely routed in an attack they made upon the earl of Newcastle at Adderton-Moor, in June, 1643, for the purpose of relieving Bradford, Sir Thomas with much difficulty, made good his retreat to Hull. His wife was intercepted by the way, but was afterwards politely sent to him by the earl, in his own coach, with a guard, Hull was besieged by the royalists, but without success j and Fairfax. \vcnt with his BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. horse into Lincolnshire, where he assisted in th* rout of Sir John Henderson. Thence he was has- tily summoned in the winter, to the relief of Nant- wich in Cheshire, besieged by Lord Byron ; whom in conjunction with Sir William Brereton, he en- tirely defeated. Returning into Yorkshire, he and his father joined the Scotch army, which advanced to the assistance of t'.e parliament, and with it they laid siege to York. This brought on in July, 1644, the battle of Marston-Moor; the first great action in which the king's troops were defeated, and the Commencement of his bad success. Sir Thomas Fairfax on that occasion, commanded the right win* of horse, which was driven off the field by prince Rupert. After this engagement, and the taking of the city of York, Fairfax was detached with a body of the victorious troops, to undertake the siege of Helmsley castle, which shortly after surrendered, and was dismantled. Here he receiv- ed a severe wound in the shoulder, which compelled him to be removed to York, where he lay for some lime in great danger. Such was now his reputation for zeal and cou- rage, that upon the new modelling of the army, and displacing of the earl of Essex, the parliament by a unanimous vote, appointed Fairfax general in his stead* Cromwell \vas at the same time made lieutenant-general ; the heads of the party expect- ing, what in fact took place, that by his superior art and abilities, he would become the actual direc- tor of the army's motions. Fairfax was called to London, and received with great honour by the parliament. An ordinance was made for the raising of forces under his command, and the appointment of officers was committed to him, with liberty to select them out of all the other armies. When this force was completed, he marched to attend the king's motions, who threatened to break in upon the eastern associated counties. The two parties met at Naseby in June, 16 15, where Fairfax gained a complete and decisive victory. In this engage- ment he led the main body of infantry, and acquit* LORD FAIRFAX:. 471 ted himself with signal bravery, as well as military skill. It was indeed his character to be animated during action, with a spirit which did not seem to belong to his ordinary temper, and which rose to a kind of enthusiastic fury. He pursued his success with vigour. Marching westward he raised the siege of Taunton, took Bridgewater, Bath, Bris- tol, Dartmouth, and other places ; defeated lord Hopton, the king's general at Torrington, and fi- nally by a series of masterly movements, cooped up the whole of the remaining royal army, in the ex- tremity of Cornwall, and obliged it to capitulate upon terms. Then returning he reduced Exeter, Oxford, and Walliiigford, and by the capture of Ragland castle, in August 1616, put an end to all opposition to the parliament's authority through- out England. In these transactions Fairfax conducted himself with honour and humanity. He was particularly careful of the concerns of literature, on the surren- der of Oxford, and diligently preserved the Bod- leian library from pillage ; so that according to Dr. Wartori, (Hist, of English poetry) it suffered less than when that city was in the possession of the royalists. He presented also to that celebrated li- brary the immense collections of Dodsworth, con- tained in 162 folio volumes of MSS. ; to which modern antiquaries have always had recourse, as an invaluable storehouse of the most ancient re- cords, and most authentic documents. But Fairfax was now to act in a scene for which he was much less fitted than for martial exploits in the involved and hollow politics of the trium- phant party. Meaning well, and confiding too much in the in- tegrity of others, he was no match for the craft of Cromwell and Ireton. He was really Avell disposed to the parliament, to which he had owed all hi* power, and which liberally rewarded all his servi- ces ; yet he was induced by the army agitators to head them in their advance towards London, in or- der to awe the legislature, and lie joined in that 472 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHED Violent restoration of the succeeding members which has destroyed all parliamentary independence. He behaved with respect to the king, and seemed de- sirous of restoring him to his throne ; yet he con- curred in the declaration of the army to support the vote of the commons for no further addresses, or application to him. By the death of his father in 1648, he succeeded to his title and estates, and thus united the heredi- tary dignity of the peerage with his acquired ho- nours. In the insurrection of that year for the royal cause, he resumed his arms, and acted with zeal and vigour. He was engaged in the siege of Colchester, which had been occupied by the insur- fents under lord Capel,and Sir Charles Lucas. t seems extraordinary that such a place could hold out eleven weeks, against a victorious general, who could command all the military forces of the king- dom ; and is a proof of the small degree of skill in the art of engineering, acquired by the petty actions of these wars ; unless it be supposed that general*!* aversion to injure a town, the inhabitants of which were probably of his own party, caused him to prefer the way of blockade. He appears to have been much irritated by the resistance he met with ; for upon its surrender, without conditions of quarter, he caused Sir Charles Lucas, and Sir George Lisle, brave men, but whom he considered as soldiers of fortune, to be shot. Returning to London, he took rip his quarters in Whitehall, and prepared the way, by overawing and purging the parliament for the king's trial, He himself, indeed affirms that the seclusion of members by colonel Pride, for" which the authority of the council of the army was alleged, was done totally without his knowledge. He was among the first of those nominated for the king's judges, but refused to act. His wife, tha lady Fairfax, who was a woman of uncommon spi- rit, being present in the court, made herself con- spicuous for a severe remark against the justice of the proceedings, and incurred some danger by her boldness. When the cryer of the court, amongst FAIRFAX. 473 the names of others who were to compose the tri- bunal, came to call that of lord Fairfax, a female voice was heard from the gallery to exclaim, " He Jtas more wit than to be here.' 1 '' WJten the im- peachment was read, " In the name of all the good people of England; " No (replied the same voice) not the twentieth part of them ; Oliver Cromwell is a rogue and a traitor" One of the officers or- dered a file of musqueteers to fire at the place whence the voice came, but they soon perceived the person who spoke was no other than the lady Fairfax her- self, whom with much difficulty they prevailed up- on to withdraw. It is well known that the strict presbyterians to which she belonged, abhorred the measure of taking away the king's life ; Fairfax was therefore expected to have interfered in order to prevent the execution ; biit it is said that he was held in prayer and conference, at major Harrison's apartments in Whitehall, till the fatal blow was struck. If he felt any resentment on the occasion, he was soothed by the new appointment of general in chief of the forces in England and Ireland ; and under this commission he suppressed the levellers \vho were become formidable in Oxfordshire. When in 1650 the Scotch nation had declared for Charles, II., and the English council of state had resolved to anticipate them by carrying the Avar into their country, Fairfax, though first approving the design, was induced by his wife and the pres- byterian ministers to regard it as unlawful ; and he chose conscientiously to lay down his commission, rather than be instrumental in it. He received a pension of 5,000 per annum, for his past services, and thenceforth lived in retirement, at his seat in Yorkshire, where he took no part in the public measures of the commonwealth. At the eve of the restoration, he, like many others who had been en- gaged in the same cause, came forward to partici- pate in . the merit of that event, and it was chiefly through his influence that the Irish Brigade forsook Lambert and joined Monk's army. He afterwards took possession of the city of York, was made a 3 6 474 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. member of the healing parliament, and was at the" head of the committee appointed to wait upon Char- les II. at the Hague, and invite him to resume his kingly office. He readily made his peace and again retired into the country ; where after much suffer- ing from the gout and stone, which he endured with great fortitude, he died in 1671, in the 60th year of his age, and was buried in the parish church of Bilbiough near York. He left issue an only daughter an heiress, who married Villiers the second duke of Buckingham, who thus acquired not only repossession of his own forfeited estates of Helmsley, &c. which had been given to the Lord Fairfax, but also the large estate of that No- bleman. Lord Fairfax was of manly aspect, gloomy but gentle in his disposition, sincere, open, disinterest- ed, more liberal in his sentiments than many of hi* party ; a lover and patron of learning, but chiefly distinguished for his military talents. Compiled from Aikin" 1 s Biographical Diet. Hume and Ray- mond's Hist, of England. SHORT ACCOUNT OF LELAND, THE AUTHOR OF THE ITINERARY. John Leland, the eminent English antiquary, was born in London, probably about the end of Henry VII. reign. He was educated at St. Paul's school, from whence he went to Christ's college Cambridge ; and after a residence of some years removed to All Souls, Oxford. For further im- provement he travelled to Paris and the continent, where he cultivated an acquaintance with some of the greatest scholars of the age. Upon his return he took orders ; and Henry VIII. appointed him one of his chaplains, and the keeper of his library, and conferred upon him the title of royal antiquary, which no other person in this kingdom, before or after possessed. This was not a mere title ; for in 1533, a commission was issued under the great eal } empowering Leland to make search after all JOHN LELAND. 475 Ejects of antiquity in the libraries of all cathedrals, abbeys, priories, colleges, &c. as also all places in which records and public writings were deposited. In consequence he spent above six years in travel- ling through England, suffering no part to escape his researches ; nor did he confine himself to the objects particularly mentioned in his commission, but visited all the remains of ancient buildings and monuments of every kind, with a view of collecting every thing that could illustrate the histories and antiquities of this nation. At the dissolution of the monasteries he was much affected with the probable loss of many of the manuscripts they contained, and made application to secretary Cromwell, to get them conveyed to the king's library. He retired with his great collections, to his house in London, for the purpose of digesting them, and preparing the great publications he had promised to the world ; but either too intense study, or some other cause, brought upon him a derangement of mind, about the year 1550, from which he never recovered. He died 1552, and was buried in the parish church of St. Michael le Quern. His manuscript collections, after passing through various hands, came for the most part into the Bodleian library at Oxford, and great use have been made of them by Bale, Cam- den, Burton, Dugdale, and other antiquaries. His Itinerary was published by Hearne at Oxford, in 9 vols. 8vo. 1710, since which it has gone through everal editions. See Aikin's Biog. Diet. With regard to the other distinguished characters of the district, many of the most interesting traits in that of the second duke of Buckingham have been already given in the article upon Kirkby- Moorside ; to which, had the limits of the present work admitted, I purposed adding Biographical sketches, of the first Duke of Buckingham of Helmsley; Laurence Sterne of Coxwold ; the Rev. John Clark, of Kirby-Misperton, &c. which I am reluctantly compelled to omit. Since the first sheets of the work were printed off, t liare, in the further progress of my researches, discovered that the estate did not pass immediately from the Wakes to the Nevilles, as some of the first authorities consulted led me to suppose ; but according. to Dugdale, it passed through the intermediate hands of the Hollands, earls of Kent. The Wake line ended in an heiress, Margaret, countess of Kent, widow of Edmond, of VVood-stock, earl of Kent, and sister of Thomas de Wake. The manor of Kirkby-Moorside remained in this family until the death of the earl of Kent; who dying without issue, in the beginning of the 15 century, his sisters be- came his hcits ; and it is thought that the lordship of Kirkby-Moorside was then assigned to Sir John Neville, eldest son of Kalph Neville, earl of Westmoreland ; who married one of them, as may be seen in the Nevilles' pe- digree, p. 90 ; and thus passed into the family of the Nevilles. The Kirkby-Moorside estate, before it came into the family of the Nevilles, belonged to the prince of Wales, surnamed the Black Prince ; in consequence of his marriage with Joan, daughter of Margaret de Wake, called the fair maid of Kent. This is certainly an hon- our to this ancient town. Tradition says that this place was burnt down, and that the field now called the Apple Garth was the site of houses. This is likely, as there were many burnt stones, &c , in the old town, which was pulled down when the present one was erected ; and it is probable that the Nevilles rebuilt the church, as their arms are on the inside of the roof of it. The house in which the duke of Buckingham died, has evidently been the best in the town, with the exception of the mansion iu Castle-gate, formerly the residence of APPENDIX. 477 the ancient family of Hobson ; with which it agrees in the style of architecture. The house is copyhold, and in 1652 was surrendered by James Judson to Robert Ot- terburne, jun- of Kirkby-Moorside, gent- Thomas lord Fairfax lord of the manor-* lu 1656,+ UobertOtterburne,jun. of Kirkby-Mobrside^ gent, surrendered it to John Dent, of Kirkby-Moorside. Thomas lord Fairfax lord of the manor. In 1683, John Dent surrendered it to Jonathan Dent his son, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; when the duke of Buckingham, Sir Robert Clayton, J and others, occur as lord of the manor. In 1725, Jonathan Dent, of Wetherby, gent- surren- dered it to Mary Atkinson, and William Atkinson, hi* son, ancestors of the present proprietor. Thomas Dun* combe, Ksq- lord of the manor. This Jonathan Dent, then of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and afterwards of Wetherby, was at the time of the duke's death, the proprietor or copyhold tenant ; and this ac- cords with the account of this event given by Mr. Nichols in his History of Leicestershire, where it is described as happening at a tenant's house iu Kirkby-Moorside. The steeple of Kirkby-Moorside church wns rebuilt in 1802 and 1803 ; when the old peal of three bells was exchanged for a new one of six: a subscription being made for the additional weight of metal- The whole cost '* The estates of the duke of Buckingham were at this time under sequestration, on account of his joining prince Charles, (afterwards Charles II.) in Scotland, previous to the battle of Worcester, in 1651, where he was present} and also for his continued attachment to the royal cause. f In 1657, the duke of Buckingham married Mary, the daughter and sole heir of Thomas lord Fairfax ; by whose interest he recover- ed the estates, sequestered by the Commonwealth, during his absence with the exiled king. J Sir Robert Clayton was a wealthy citizen and lord mayor of Lon- don, in 1679. He was a scrivener, and from small beginnings he grew exceedingly rich, and became much in favour with the courtiers of his time. Mr. Evelyn, in his diary, says "Some believed him guilty of hard dealing with the duke of Buckingham, much of whose estate he had swallowed j but I u V*T saw any ill by him, considering the trade he was of," APPENDIX. of the steeple, bells, and bell-hanging, amounted i j1041- and upwards- The sum arising from the sale of the old bells, scaffolding, and other materials, together with the subscription above mentioned, amounted to^2I8 10s. 8d- leaving a net expense of about 823. which was defrayed by the parishioners, in the course of a few years, by annual instalments. The clock was presented by Mrs. Comber, wife of the Rev. William Comber, A. M. fifty-four years vicar of the pari.-h- It was fiist put up in the year 1795; and re- placed in (he new steeple, in 1803. A small organ was presented to the church in 1806, at the joint expense of Mrs. Comber, and of George Atkin- son and Francis Atkinson, Esqrs. ; which was enlarged and improved by Mr Thomas Gray, of Pickering, in the spring of 1818- This instrument was nearly destroyed by fire, on Sunday evening, the 10 of January, 1819, im- mediately after divine service, by the falling of a lighted candle into the inside of it ; and the present one, built by the same self- taug lit aitist, was erected in its stead, in January, 1820 ; partly by subscription, aud partly at the common expense of the township- The inn, which in the history of Kirkby-Moorside is called the Greet. Dragon, has since been rebuilt, and is row the Tontine Inn. The foundation of it was laid on the 13 of May last; (Messrs. Rickaby and liolliday, masons, and Mr. George Potter, carpenter-) In removing the alluvium to dig cellars and to make foundations, the workmen discovered the remains of twelve human bodies, buried not far from each other, in an irregular manner ; their heads not being directed to any particular point of the compass- On the east side of them I discovered the remains of three urns, which resemble Roman pottery. They were close to the rock, in the midst of ashes and charcoal. &c- : and the rock was burnt with the strength of the fire which had accompanied them- These urn* probably contained the ashes of chiefs, which were de- posited at the bottom of a tumulus, which was removed when the buildings which were upon those bodies and urns, were erected ; and the builders not going deep enough with the foundations, left the-n undisturbed. APPENDIX. 479 These bodies and urns were no doubt placed there after a battle, fought probably between the Romanised Britons and some other power. A tumulus of considerable dimensions, was lately o- penedat a place called the Hag, about a mile ft, w. of Kirkby-Moorside, in which was found an urn ; but it appears to have been of more recent date than those found behind the Tontine Inn. Great numbers of human bones were also dug out of the same tumulus ; and from, the immense size of it, a great number of bodies appear to have been burnt indiscriminately, and the ashes of some particular person deposited in the urn; In addition to the inns mentioned in the history of this town, are the Black Swan, kept by Mr- John Potter ; the George and Dragon, kept by Mr. William "Wood ; the King's Head, by Mr. King ; the Hare Inn, by Mr- Leng; and many others- I proposed to give a list of the names belonging to the Literary and Philosophical Societies in Yorkshire, but not having room for ihem it will be sufficient to observe, that, since the Cave at Kirkdale was discovered, there have been established the Yorkshire, Hull, and Whitby, Literary and Philosophical Societies ; one also at Leeds, and another at Sheffield, have lately been instituted. The Muse- tun belonging to the Yorkshire Literary and Philosophical Society, is near the Ouse bridge, in the city of York, containing many antiquities, fossils, minerals, &c. and a good collection of the Kirk- dale bones. The Hull Society was begun by W. H. Dykes, Esq. and a few other gentlemen of Hull ; their Museum is well furnished, they have also many animal remains from Kirkdale. The Society at Whitby was commenced by the exertions of the Rev. George Young, A. M. of Whitby, Mr. Bird, Artist, and a few more gentlemen ; their Museum also contains great variety. Thomas Hinderwell, Esq. of Scarborough, has a fine collection of minerals, &c., and the Rev. Joseph Smyth, of Kirkby-Moorside has a good collection of bones and teeth from Kirkdale ; and a very fine and numerous assortment of modern shells. John Gibson, Esq. of Stratford, Essex, has, I believe, a greater collection of the bones and teeth from Kirkdale, than any public society or private individual. In the account of Malton, I ommitted the insertion of three place* of worship ; the old Independent chapel, one lately built by the Anabaptists, and another by the people who call themselves Primi- tive Methodists. GENERAL INDEX. A Page Abbey, meaning of 130 Alia, Saxon Prince 331 Agricola, conquers Britain 63 Aidan 2J3 AiMaby 81, 282 Albrrmarle, Earl of 348 Alhini, Nigel de 85 Album, Grsecum 23 Alcibiade's dog 413 Aldbro' ancient Isurium 63,235 Alfred the Great 68, 69 King 330, 331 Alian Priories, why so called 130 Allersion 81, 242 Alum 313, 314 AMPLEFORTH College 233 Ancient British settlements 447 Animal remains at Kirkdale 12,24 Antiquities 147, 152, 185,206,359, 393, 394, 210, 234, 205, 255, 264, 284, 287 Appletomle-Street 184 Armies of the ancient Britons 52 Arran, Earl of, his letter 95 Ashes, lofty, at Nunnington 185 Athdstan 38 Aton, William de 356 Augustin, Saint 434 AVJ'OV 70, 340 B Baptisms remarkable 114 Barton-le-Street 184. Barugh 141, 257 Bateman, Thomas, M. D. 326 Battle of Bylaud 391, 394 ww > Bannockburn 273 of the Standard 87 Flodden Field 374 Falkirk 270 Beadlam 141 Bear, bones of 17, 20 Bearcroft, Mr. 432 Beckhouse 282 Belasyse family 381, 383 Bernard St. 38> Bilsdale Chapel 435 Page BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES Dodsworth Roger 464 Dean Comber 466 Lord Fairfax 469 John Leland 475 Birds, bones of 23 Blumberg family 258, 260 Boadicea 62 Bones at Kirkdale 14, 24 i" human at Kirkby-Moor side 79 Bransdale 141 Breccia, osseous 17 Brigantes 62, 354 Britons, ancient 52 Bromflete, Thomas de 71, 334, 357 BROMPTOX 333, 337 John of 334 Brooke Lady, her monument 107 Brown, Rev. Thomas 446 Browne's acct. of the Hyaena 29 Bruce's do. do. 28 Brus, or Bruce family 271, 273, 287, 289, 303, 391 Buckingham, Duke of 94, 106, 419 House in which he died 102, 470 Letter to Dr. Barrow 102 Buckland Professor 6, 7, 16, 19, 23, 35, 39 Button's account of the Hyaena 26 Bulmer family 370 Bertram de 370, 379 Bursar, monastic officer 133 Byland, Old 387, 388 BYLAND Abbey 241,384,386,395- Battle of 391, 394 Ccenobites 134 Caesar conquers Britain 61 Cailli, Adam de 334 Caledonians 53, 55 Camden on Ryedale 70 Life of 73 Camps Anoient 393, 394 - at Cropton 452 Cape Hya-na 24, 29, 36 Cawthorne 452 INDEX. 481 fcuu Caractacns, Brit. General 62 Carlisle, Earls of 166, 182, 240, 366, 370 Carucate, extent of 144 Cassibelaunus, British General 61 Castles, ancient 84, 240, 289, 346, 399 General description of 290 CASTLE HOWARD 365, 370 Cauklas or Cauklays Hill 183, 397 Cavendish, Sir Charles 240, 251 Cave at Kirkdale 5, 40 probable formation of 10, ' and fissures, general re- marks 41, 44 Cawthorn 282 Cawton 395, 404 Cayley family 149, 155, 334, 337 Sir George 327, 334 Sir William 335, 336 Ceder, remarkable 150 Cedd, Bishop 437 Ceadda 440 Celts or Celtae 53 Celts 147, 206 Chaloner, Sir Thomas 315 Chaunter, Monastic officer 133 Chantries 131, 303 Charities 118, 177, 196, 204, 224 239, 266, 304, 316, 323, 384, Chert 8, 11 ChesnutTree, remarkable 206 Chevy Chase 167 Cholmley Family 3! , 329, 312 Sir Henry 228 -s ; Sir Riclu rd 311 319, 320, 329 i Sir Hugh 313, 321, 322 329, 331, 348 Christianity introduced 127 Cistercian Order 386 Clarke, Rev. John 259 Cleaver Family 167, 168, 169, 179, 182, 279, 385 Clifford, Lords de, 341, 357, 358 Coals 459 Coins, Ancient 185, 211, 355 Coleville, Sir Thomas de 384 Colton 200, 211, 242 Comber Family 191, 198, 259 2GO " THOMAS, D.D. Dean 188 189, 198,321,322,325,326 3 Page Comber, Rev. William 109, 111 188 Comites Littoris Saxonici 66 Commanderies 131 Coins, Ancient 411 Coniers Family 71, 357, 350 Constables 400 Constantius 63 Constantine the Great 12S Costa Rivar 6, 305 Cow Club, Village 319 Cows Paps, stalagmite 12 COXWOLD 381, 382, 386 CRAIKE 377, 381 Cromwell's daughter Mary 381 Cropton 141, 282 Crosses, Ancient 455 Cuthbert, St. 365, 378 Customs Curious 171, 361 D Dacre Lords 1G4, 365 Dales 6 Danby 84, 93, 272, 274, 276 Danes 54, 68, 83, 310 Danvers, Earl of Danby 151, 15<* 277 328 Date of Kirkdale Cave 30, 40 David King of Scotland 87, 356 Dawson Family 263, 264, 279 Deer Bones of 17, 22, 23 Deluge 32, 33, 35 37, 39 Den of Hyameas 23 30, 31, 39 40, 44 Denton, Rev. John 192 Derventio, or Malton 35& Derwent 353, 354, 359 Dials, Saxon 152, 255 Dininckhoff Bernard 400 Dining Room, ancient at Gilling 99 Dissolution of Monasteries 137, 139 DODSWORTH, Roger 219, $28 Dowthwaite Dale 446, Dove River 6, 42, 71, 146 Dover Straits 37 Doveroy, Siege of 274 Druids, account of 53, ' 61 . Dale 411 Duck, bones of, at Kirkdale 17, 23 DUNCOMBE Park 412 i Family, pedigree of 419 482 INDEX. Page Duncombe Charles, Esq. 327 Eunsley Bay 68, 310 EBBERSTON 330 Echinites 460 Edgar King 37 EDSTONE 14 i, 255, 323, 327 Saxon dial 255 Little 280 Edward the Confessor 60 I. 38 II. 391 HI. Coins of 185 Elephant Bones of 16, 17, 21, 35 39 of Tungusia 36 Elizabeth, Princess 372, 375 Ella, King of Deira 67 Eilerburne 328, 329 Elm Tree, fine one 216 Equites Singulares 359 Eremites 134 Espec Walter 363 Ethelbert 153, 154, 309 Eure or Evers family 71, 341, 356, 358 Fadmore 79, 117, 142 Foeces of the Hyaena 23 Fairfax Family 99, 397, 399 THOMAS, Lord 469 Brian 98, 99 Falkirk, Battle of 270 Falsgrave 349 Finan 438 Farndale 142, 394 Fauconbergs, Lords 381, 382 Fitzwilliam Earl 358, 360, 362 Flamborough Head 68, 215 Hodden Field, Battle of 374 Fossil Wood 33 Fothergill Family 297, 303 Fowler, David Burton, Esq. 385 Fox, bones of at Kirkdale 21 Friaries 131 Friendly Societies 118, 201, 318 Fryton 199, 200, 212, 237 G Gaelic Language 54 Gamel, Saxon Lord 84 GANTOJT 349, 351 Garland at Funerals 361 Geological situation of Kirkdale 5 Gibson, Mr. of Welbura 96, 109 Lady Penelope 155 Gillamoor 117, 142 GILLING 184, 395 Go DELANO 305 Gough, Nicholas, D. D. 398 Government of the ancient Bri- tons 52 Grahme, Ranald, Esq. 165, 174 176 Sir B. R. 177, 179 Gregory, St. 153, 154 Greystock, Lords 242, 364, 365 Grit", or Grave, meaning of 186 GRIFF, once a town 428 Grimstone 406 Guudreda, Lady 241, 387 H. Habton 142, 257 HACKNESS 341, 344 Hambleton Hills 5, 6, 183, 184 Hammer, a stone one 411 Harcla, Sir Andrew 392 Hare, bones of, at Kirkdale, 17, 22 Harum 432 Hart, Sir John 384 Hastings, Earls of Huntingdon 240, 242 . William Lord 243, 251 HELMSLEY 71, 171, 406 ii. Estate, descent of 415 Henry VII. 371, 372, 875 VIII. 137, 139, 27 320, 374 Hermitages 131 Hickes Family 179 Dr. George Dean of Wor- cester 179 Hilda, St. 309, 311, 342 Hill, Richard, Esq. 317, 327 Hinderskelf 242, 365, 366 HinderweU's Mr. History of Scar- borough 349 Hippopotamus, bones of 17,21, 3& HISTORY introductory 45, 75 Hode 387 Hodge Beck 6, 42 HoJgate Arch 261, 36* INDEX. 483 Holm Caldron 156, 157 Howkeld Head 156, 157 Horns of Deer at Kirkdale 23, Horse, remains of 22 Hospitals 131 Hostilarius 132 Hotham Family 330, 331, 333 Houes or Tumuli 234, 235, 394 450 HOVINGHAM 199, 212 Howardiau Hills 6 Hugh, the son of Baldric 199 Hungar and Hubba 68 HUTTON BUSHELL 340 Hyaena's Den at Kirkdale 13, 30, 44 Bones of 17, 18, 19 Natural History of 24,30 Origin of the name 25 curious anecdotes of 28, 30, 39 Hypocaust at Hovingham 205 Jackson, Thomas, singular mo- nument of 168 John, Esq. 446 James, IV. of Scotland 373, 374 Ichthyosaurus, or Lizard fish 35 Ida, Prince of Bernicia 67 Idels of Bulmer 180 IHCOYC explained 304 Ilfreds hole 330 Independents 115 I.ifangtheof definition of 343 Infirmaries 133 Johnstone Family 342 K Kay, Rev. William 174, 176 Keldhead 304, 305 KELDHOLME PRIORY 127, 139 148 Kellington, Robert, inscription 398 Kingthorp 303, 329 KlRKBY-MODRSIDE 71, 79, 123 Steeple rebuilt 477 Lines written upon 120 . Clock given 478 KIRKBY-OVER-CAR or Mispertoa 257, 260 KIRKDALE 83, 148, 159 Saxon Dial 151 Page Page KIRKDALE CAVE 1, 44 KIRKHAM 7, 362, 364 Kuowles, Herbert, Lines of 158 Lancaster, Earls of 70, 273, 295 392 Langley Family 337, 340 Langwith, Rev. Oswald 329 Lark, bones of at Kirkdale 17, 23 LascelFs Family 304 Latimer Lords 262, 269, 276 Sir Thomas 270 Laysthorp Hall 198 Legard Family 349, 351 Legio Sexta Victrix 63, 66, 354 Leng Bish 326 LESTINGHAM 436 Altar piece, propo- sed at 445 Lindisfarne 439 Lines on Sheriff Hutton 376 List of Animals found at Kirkdale 19, 23 Lockton 282, 306 Longevity 114, 174, 175, 184 Loquinarius 133 Loschy, Peter, Knight Templar 169, 170, 174 Lumley Lords 262, 266, 267 Lady Elizabeth 267, 278 323, 328 Mackereth, Rev. M. 324, 326 Maiden Greve Balk 354 MALTON 6, 71, 73, 353, 362 Chapels 479 Map of Yorkshire, Warburtons 404 Margaret, Princess 373, 374, 380 Marine Animals at Kirkdale 33 Marlborough, Duke of, inscription 369 Marriages under the Common- wealth 111, 114, 174, 265 MARTON 280, 323, 327 MARTON in GALTRES 379 Mason, Thomas, B. u. inscription 321 Mauley, Peter de 379 Maunche, Coat of Arms of the. Hastings, 237, 238, 251 484 INDEX. Page Maunche Memorable contest for 238 Maypoles 2?5, 262 Medal discovered at Middleton 284 MIDDLETON 81, 281, 286 Mineral Springs 125, 209, 257 283, 347, 362 Mineralogy 456 Monasteries, gen. hist, of 127, 139 Dissolution of 137, 139 Monk General 381 Monks, account of 129 Monuments 107, 154, 165, 198, 203, 216,237, 258, 263,287 319, 336, 383, 397 Mosaic account of the Creation 32, 40, 44 Mowbray Family 85, 212, 240, 399 .. Roger dc 85,204,378 387, 389 Mulgrave Castle 316 Multure meaning of the term 143 MUSCOATES 160, 171, 177 Musgrave Monument 110. Myron, the celebrated Statuary 413 N Nawton 118, 148 Nelson Lord, monument 369, 415 NESS, EAST 209, 211 Sarcophagus at 210 NESS WEST 177, 186, 199 Neville Family 87, 93, 141, 275 371 Observations on 462 NEWBROUGH 241, 380, 382 William of 71, 290, 380, 390 NEWTON EAST 197 NEWTON WEST 228, 233 Norcliffe, Sir Thomas 171, 180 NORM AN BY 256 Norton 354, 359 NUNNINGTON 144, 162, 186 Oak, remarkable one 208 Officers in the Monasteries 130, 134 Old Stead 388 Oolite 8, 33 Pag* Organs at Kirkby-Moorside Church 477 Orm, Lord of Kirkdale 84, 152 Osbaldeston Family 330, 340, 341 OSWALDKIRK 184, 212, 234 Oswald, St. 164, 213, 215, 309 Oswy, King of Northumberland 309 Otterburne, Battle of 167 Ox, bones of 17, 22 Oxgang, extent of 144 Oxlee, Rev. John 196 Paintings at Duncombe Park 4 1 4 Paganel Ralph 162 Parr, Catherine Queen of Henry VIII. 276 Peacocks, Family of 175, 177, 185 Peak in Derbyshire 4 J Pear tree, remarkable one 230 Pearson, Rev. Robert, Arch, of Cleveland 385 Penda, King of Mercia 309, 438 Petrifactions 459 Percehaies 71, 113, 266 Percy Family 71, 160, 171, 310 342 Peter Corn 38 PICKERING 70, 286, 305 Castle 288, 290,293 294, 297 Lyth or Liberty 70, 289 Vale of 6 Sir William 389 Pigeon, bones of 17, 23 Plantagenet, Edward 372 POCKLEY 431 Poetry 101, 108, 120, 158, 187 191, 193, 202, 206, 208, 214, 218, 225, 230, 232, 278, 369, 376, 429. Preceptories 131 Preston, Richard, Lord 165, 1 79, 182 Primitive Rock 34 Priory, meaning of 130 Alien 130 Quintin, St. Family 353 JNDEX. 485 Page R Raby Castle, account of 87, 89 Raven, bones of 17, 23 Refectionarius 133 Religion of Ancient Britons 53, 57 Rhinoceros, bones of 16, 17, 21, 35, 36 Rical River 6, 71 Richard HI. 244, 246, 250, 296, 346, 372 Roman Road 453 Robinson Family 149, 155 Luke, Esq. 112, 149, 174 266 Ricvaulx Abbey 421 Rockingham, Marquis of 357, 359 Romans in Britain 52, 61, 66 ROSEOALE 282, 306, 308 Ross or Roos, Lords de 7 1 , 17 1 , 364 Roxby Hill 320, 328 RYDALE, account of 70, 73 Rye River 6, 71, 163 Ryton 71, 258, 266. Page SLEIGHTHOLME DALE 124, 126 SLINGSBV 184, 234, 252 Smyth, Rev. Joseph 16, 107, 110 Snipe, bones of 17, 23 Soc, meaning of 143, 343 Societies, Literary 479 Stalactite, meaning of 15 Stalagmite 11, 12, 15, 17, 1$ Standard, battle of 87 Stapylton Family 390, 400 Martin, Esq. 390 Stephen, King 87, 291, 387 Sterne, Laurence 382 Stone, Sir John, inscript. 237,239 STONEGRAVE 163,165, 177,184 186, 189 Strickland, Sir William 232, 327 Studford's Ring, encampment 393 Stutevilles or Estotevilles 71, 85, 165, 171, 240, 241 Robert, de 87, 140 _ Joan de, introd. side sad- dle 86 Castle of 84 Subterranean streams 42 Sac, meaning of 343. Salisbury, Marquis of 278, 279 Salmond, W. Esq. 7, 19 SALTON 25-2 254 Saxons in Britain 67, 70 inscriptions 152, 255 SCAMPSTON 274, 352 SCARBOROUGH 68, 344, 349 Hinderwell, hist, of, 349 Scenery at Kirkdale 2 Schools 118, 177, 196,204,224, 239, 266, 304, 323, 384 Scholefield Rev. R, B. 324 Scriptores, Monastic officers 133 Sculpture at Harum, curious 433 Secondary Rock 32, 34 Serpents, curious account of 171, 236, 269 Seven, River 6, 26| Severus Emperor 63 Shepherds knab 447 SHERIFF HUTTON 370, 377 Shells 461 Bivalves 46: Uni- valves 463 Multilocular 463 Side-Saddle introduced 86 SINKING-TON 261, 281,323, 324 327 Siward, Earl 355 Skiplara 118, 148 3 Table of benefactions, adv. of 221 Team, meaning of 343 Terrace near Rievar.lx 428 Tesserae found inRievaulx abbey 427 Terrington 376 Theos, derivation of 55 Thirsk 381, 387 Thompson, Edward, Esq. monu- ment 217 THORNTON 274, 316, 330 Thorntons of East Newton 170, 191, 194 Thurstan, arch, of York 356, 386 Tiger, bones of 17, 20 Tillotson, Archbishop 219 Todeni, Berenger de 255, 261, 280 Toll, meaning" of 343 Toll Booth 116 Tosti, Earl of Northumberland 69, 152, 154 Tontine Inn, bodies found at 478 Traditions, curious 171, 235 Trenches 451 Trees, remarkable 150, 185, 206 208, 216, 230 Tumuli or Hones 234, 294 Tyson, Lord of Maltou 72, 35S Q 486 INDEX. Page Venus, derivation of 55 Vescy Family 70, 72, 171, 341, 356, 357 Village Cow Club 319 Vivers 117, 120 Urn found at Ampleforth 234 - Kirkby-Moorside 479 W Wallace, Sir William 271 Walnut tree, remarkable 185 Wake, Lords de 86, 140, 165, 171, 283 Wapentake, meaning of 160 Water, Rat, bones of 17, 18, 20 22, Wath 199, 200, 212, 237 Weasel, bones of 31 WELBURN 118, 148, 151 Westrop, James, curious inscrip. 337 Whale Fishery 314 WHITBY 68, 308, 316 Abbey 310 Young's History of 308 Piers 313 Widdrington Lord 165, 166, 167 179 Page William the Conqueror 297 Wilton 329 Wismond, Bishop 390 Wolf, bones of 17, 21, 37, 38 Womhleton, 148 Worsley family 203, 205, 327 Wrangham, Arch. 7, 149, 150, 282, 319 Wrelton 282 WYKEHAM 337, 340 Wyvills, knights of the, 236, 237, 239 YEDDINGHAM 351 Yoadwath Mill 79 York, ancient Eboracum 63, 66> 374 station of the 6th legion 63, 66 capture of, by stratagem 29* Young, Rev. T. of Gilling 396 Rev. G. Hist, ef Whitby 308 Zoophytes 46 ERRATA. Page Line 49 18 For overturned, read over timid. 60 13 'the princes their, read their princes. 65 23 scite, read site. 71 26 Perchaies, read Percihaies. 91 9 Faumberg, read Fauconberg. HI i .^706, read 1606. 116 27 Steps, read Shops. 151 Syning, Cyning. 1 79 20 Leodicensis, read Leodiensis. 180 4 the departure, read their departure. 213 11 Tona, read lona. 253 11 Western, read South. 253 17 East, read North. 254 23 after Christopher, insert Dowker, and for 1784 r. 1743 256 30 retained in the, insert hands of the king after the conquest. 259 27 for Gough, read Zoucb. 263 12 Malton Gill, read Halton Gill. 2fi7 3O Pa m oa, - a ci Fartuanby. 279 22 Salton gill, read Haltuu gill. 3J2 14 200, read 190. 349 14 Mulsgrave, read Walsgrave. 359 10 Lockburne, read Sockburne. 359 31 Darwent, read Derwent. 380 20 Cannos, read Canons. 397 28 itnproble, read improbable. DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. Lestingham Church to face the Title. Page View of the Cave at Kirkdale 5 Kirkby-Moorside Church 106 Kirkdale Church 151 Kirkdale Inscription 152 Rievaulx Abbey 421 Plant of Lestingham Church 440 From the Office of R. PEAT, Thirsk. BY THE SAME AUTHOR, OBSERVATIONS ON HUMAN LIFE: About to lie He-published^ price 3s. 6d. Boards. POWER OF SATAN LIMITED, AND HIS POLICY CONFOUNDED BY CHRIST. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-25m-7,'63(D8618s8)444 DA 690 K63IE1