UC-NRLF $B 7MS 725 GIFT OF rior to his departure to fight the Austrians. The end of that year found him again in Ceylon, but this time as private secretary to the chief -justice. In 1850 he accompanied the prime minister of Nepaul to that country, reaching the frontier of Thibet, traversing the whole of India from Calcutta to Bombay. Then European Glimpses and Gh anees. 15 lie returned to England and published liis first book, "A Journey to Nepaul," whicli proved a success and initiated liim into tlie field in which he has attained eminence. ,^/^ V Laurence Oliphant. In 1852 he travelled through Russia, and sub- sequently published an account of his journey, entitled "The Russian Shores of the Black Sea," which served afterwards as a guide to 1 6 Eu7^opean Glimpses and Glances. the English army in the Crimea. Early in 1864 he accompanied Lord Elgin, as secretary, to Washington, and assisted in the negotiation of the Eecii^rocity treaty. He was soon after apjDointed civil secretary and superintendent- general of Indian affairs in Canada. The following year he was attached to Lord Stratford's embassy at Constantinople, and was present at some of the final operations in the Crimean war, and afterwards was attached to the Turkish army under Omar Pasha through- out the campaign in the Caucasus. At the close of the war he returned to the United States, joined a filibustering expedition from ]^ew Orleans to Nicaragua, and, that failing, en- gaged in some explorations on the Isthmus of Panama. In 1857 he returned to England, and was beaten in a Parliamentary contest in Sterling burroughs. Succeeding that fruitless effort he was attached to Lord Elgin's embassy to China and Japan, and was present at all the warlike operations for two years, and at the opening of Japan in 1858. In 1859 he was once more at home, in England, but was soon appointed secretary of legation in Japan, and was seriously wounded during a midnight attack by Jaj^anese European Glimpses and Glances. i 7 assassins, tlie marks of wliicli lie still carries on liis person. He was employed on special service in Italy, Albania, and Montenegro in 1862; was in Poland during the insurrection in 1863, and in the Schleswig-Holstein war in 1864, and finally en- tered Parliament, as a member from the Sterling burroughs, in 1865. During all this period he had enjoyed unu- sual opportunities in the social world, as he was a faA'orite with the royal family, and was a Avelcome guest in the homes of the best society in England. He was now about thirty- six years of age, had attained distinction in public and so- cial life, and had everything which most people consider desirable in life almost within his grasp. He had passed through these experiences with the utmost zest, and with the undefined purpose of securing whatever there was in them. He finally realized, however, that they did not satisfy him. He felt that the results so far attained were not the most worthy. He began to consider the social problem and the higher possibilities of life, feeling willing to make any sacrifice to enter npon a more promising field for investigation in this direction, and believing himself to be influenced by internal promptings. 1 8 European Glimpses and Glances. At this juncture occurred the great crisis of his life. Promx)ted by a feeling of dissatisfac- tion at the results so far attained, and through the influence of internal promptings, he sud- denly resigned his seat in Parliament and disap- jDeared from the stage on which he had been a prominent actor, went to America, and joined a society composed of a small number of j)eople from all parts of the world — some even from Japan — drawn thither by motives similar to those which had influenced him. Perhaps no man ever made a more complete surrender of himself and everything he pos- sessed — position in society, family, friends, and worldly possessions to the last dollar — than did Mr. Oliphant on joining this society. He per- formed the most menial services, blacked the boots of his companions, took care of the horses, and did all kinds of manual labor. In fact, he abandoned all he had been accustomed to do, and did everything he had never done before. He even went out into the world, from time to time, at the behest of \X\q leader of the societ}^, and earned large amounts of money, every dollar of which he gave uj), except barely enough for his personal expenses. How much of a sacrifice all this must have been only those can tell who European Glinipscs and Glances. share with him the repugnance to the pursuit of mere money-making. The result of all these exx)eriences, covering a period, up to the present date, of about twenty years, it would be quite impossible to describe in any brief space. They can only be compre- hended by Mr. Oliphant's own utterances. But it would be difficult to find any man whose aims and purposes in life have been more com- pletely changed, he having entirely abandoned his former selfish life, and become vvholly ab- sorbed in a burning desire to helx) and benefit humanity. The Christianity of the day had always been repugnant to him. It seemed to him so utterly unlike the Christianity which would naturally result from the life and precepts of Christ that he rejected it altogether. The following are the most important of his writings: "Lord Elgin's Embassy to China and Japan"; ''Piccadilly," a caustic satire upon the manners and customs of the best English so- ciety, political, religious, and fashionable, now in its ninth edition; " Altiora Peto," a novel, which has had an equally successful run ; "Fashionable Philosophy"; "Traits and Tra- vesties"; "Massolam," anovel; "Haifa; or, Life 20 Eu7^opean Glimpses and Glances. in Modern Palestine"; "Episodes in a Life of Adventure," and liis sketch, ''Irene McGilli- cuddy," wliicli New-Yorkers will remember created a considerable sensation a few years ago. Mr. Olipliant married, in 1872, Miss Le Strange, wlio warmly shared his views, and who fell a victim to a malignant fever contracted on a camping journey around Lake Tiberias, and died in December, 1886. In an interview accorded me on the steamer by Mr. Oliphant, during which I obtained the above facts, he related many interesting and ex- traordinary incidents that occurred during the period covered by the above narration. Few men have had so varied and extensive expe- riences, or extracted from them so much for the benefit of others. Those interested in works of travel will be most attracted by his earlier books, while those who desire to know something of the deep things that absorb his present life may learn of them from his last two large volumes — " Sympneuma- ta" and "Scientific Religion." Miss Rosamond Dale Owen, whose life has been scarcely less remarkable, though in quite another way, is the daughter of Robert Dale Owen, and granddaughter of Robert Owen, the Eiiropean Glimpses and Glances. 21 founder of the New Harmony community in In- diana. On lier mother's side Miss Owen traces her descent directly from John Robinson, one of the Pilgrim Fathers, thus uniting in herself a re- markable inheritance of talent and high moral and social aims. The i)rominent position as a spiritualist which her father occupied familiarized her from in- fancy with that region of inquiry and experience which developed her character under exceptional conditions. At the age of fifteen she w^as al- ready a powerful medium. But, as she com- bined with this sensitiveness to spiritual impres- sions great independence and originality of thought, with the highest moral as^iirations, she was soon brought into that conflict in her search after truth which must always attend the efforts of those who seek it through contact with the in- visible. Her young life was a good preparation for the struggles that ensued later, for no child could have been born into a happier and more harmo- nious home. The principle of universal love, taught and lived by her grandfather, was fully accepted by her mother and wisely applied in every detail of x)ractical life. Seven years of her youth were passed in Eu- 2 2 Etu'opean Glimpses and Glances, rope, where her father had been called to Na- ples. Miss Owen completed lier education in New York, but mental over-exertion seriously injured her health, and she found, just as life ojDened to her under most favorable auspices, that her eyesight had entiiely failed, and that she was unable to continue her literary pursuits. For nine years she was almost blind. It was a weary experience, but through those heljDless years she learned to ponder as only the blind can. During this time she was sent from place to place, in search of health, and as she became acquainted with the world a strong antipathy arose towards those who called themselves Chris- tians. They seemed to her untrue to the funda- mental doctrines of their master, Christ Jesus. At the age of thirty- six she was converted to a belief in the Master of men through an expe- rience almost as remarkable as that of St. Paul. One quiet Sunday afternoon she entered the Church of the Transfiguration, in New York City — so well known as "The Little Church Around the Corner" — with a friend, with a fixed preju- dice against the Redeemer of mankind, and left it, after an hour's stay, filled with love for Him, which has increased in intensity with each added year. European Glimpses and Glances, 23 Shortly after this she was called, to England, where she lectured for two years to large au- diences, in London and the jn'ovinces, on the labor question and on religion. As her peculiar views developed, her audiences were not inclined to accept them. The spiritualists rejected Christ, the Christians rejected the idea of com- munion with the unseen. They could accept the fact of angel messengers in the past but not in the present. On returning to America she made a futile ef- fort to win Christians to a more vivid realiza- tion of angel ministration, and spiritualists to a belief in Christ as the centre of the inHux from above. But she found almost none who were willing to listen. She therefore was relieved from public duty and gladly returned to j^rivate life. In her earlier years she i3ublished stories in Harper and Lqjpincoit^ but of late has given her attention to more serious subjects — "woman's work " and "man's spiritual possibilities." She is now engaged on a work discussing many of the spiritual difficulties which are perj)lexing men and women. In the past her delicate health' has greatly crippled her efforts, but her strength increases with her years, and we may hope for helpful words from her pen in the future, CHAPTER II. Arrival at Hamburg— A Sleepy Place — In Search of Rooms at the Hotel — No Custom-House Restrictions— It is Different in New York — A Proposed Tariff in the Free Cities of Ger- many—Deliberate Business Methods — The Many Attractions of Hamburg. >yj I E arrived in Hamburg at 10.30 p.m., and ^^^^■^ although our steamer blew her power- ful whistle at intervals, for an hour previous to landing, in tones sufSciently loud to Avaken the early sleepers from their profoundest slumbers, not a human being was to be seen on our arrival at the wharf. 'No cabs or conveyances of any kind were in waiting. Under similar circum- stances in New York there would be a cab for each passenger, and its driver would exhibit an extraordinary degree of enterprise in securing him. Many of the passengers, preferring a comfort- able room at a good hotel to the close stateroom of the steamer, determined to disembark and try to find such accommodations. We sent a spe- cial messenger for cabs, went ashore, and stood an hour on the dock, shivering in the rain. Fi- nally we heard the distant rumble of wheels, the 24 European Glimpses and Glances, 25 near approacli of w liicli disclosed to us a single drosclike— rather limited accommodations for fifty i)eople. Tliroiigli the kind and rather offi- cious efforts of an Austrian army officer, a f el- Hamburg — Old Architecture. low-passenger, our party of three secured the first seats. Then as many others got in and on the vehicle as it could possibly contain, and we started for the liotel at a very dignified pace. 2 6 EiLropcau Glimpses and Glances, Reacliing its welcome portals, shortly after midniglit, we found it closed and silent as the grave. By dint of ringing and pounding we succeeded in raising a diminutive, frowsy boy, who oi:)ened the door to us, holding a single can- dle — an article which we subsequently found played a conspicuous part in our hotel bills — which did good service in making the darkness visible, but scarcel}^ served any other useful pur- pose. We asked the small boy for rooms, and we learned on the spot the important fact that one person can do only one thing in Germany. He shrugged his shoulders and said — in German, of course, which fortunately some of our party un- derstood — that he would go and wake up the clerk. After an interval so protracted that we thought he must be making an elaborate toilet in order to receive distinguished guests with clue honors, the clerk appeared, with lantern in hand, and conducted the whole part}' all over the house, showing us all the unoccux)ied aj^art- ments, stating the price of each and all particu- lars. A little before daylight we were settled in our rooms, and were soon profoundlj^ uncon- scious of the sensation we had produced by our untimely arrival. European Glinipscs and Glances. Remembering the customs of first-class hotels in our great cities at home, it seemed strange that one of the lai-gest hotels in Hamburg should at any time of the night — and especially as early as twelve or one o'clock — be shrouded in dark- ness, with no one astir to receive visitors, or even to watch the premises. As we have made this journey to find out all we can about the customs and habits prevailing on this side of the ocean, we propose to keep our eyes and ears open, and to report according to our best ability, making such observations upon passing scenes and events as will enable the reader to see them, in some sense, through the eyes of the w^riter. The attention of the traveller is first arrested here by the fact that he is not compelled, on lauding, to run the gauntlet of a horde of cus- tom-house officials. The contrast in this respect between arriving from abroad in Hamburg and New York is quite remarkable. Here there is absolutely no restriction, and you are subject to no embarrassment whatever on landing. But on approaching New York j'ou are first required to subscribe to an oath as to the possession, among your effects, of any dutiable articles. Then your trunks are exaujined, upon the pre- :28 Eitropcan Glimpses and Glances. sumi:)tion tliat you have made a false oath, and you are perliajis made ont a j)erjurer by tlie seiz- ure of some trifling article that you had inno- cently thought you had. a right to bring in free of duty. It is rather an unpromising recej^tion for a high-minded foreigner to encounter a trap set for him at our very gates, and to suddenly And himself a self-convicted j)erjurer^ — a wel- come, one would naturally think, little likely to lead him to expect courteous treatment at our hands on further acquaintance. An American can hardly realize, at this dis- tance and amid the conditions, that at this mo- ment a most exciting contest is in progress at home, the main element of which is the ques- tion of duties npon imi^orted merchandise. The fact that fi^ee trade has been successful in these commercial cities in the Old World cannot be considered conclusive as to the propriety of its adoption in America, Avith its vast territory and diversified interests. But the unquestioned suc- cess of the experiment, covering a jieriod of cen- turies, may be very properly taken into the esti- mate in forming our conclusions and shaping our policy, in this regard, for the future. Whether this success may be the result of the early adoption of absolute free trade or of other Eiu'Opean Glimpses and Glances. 29 causes, or of all combined, certain it is that an important city Las grown up here, which not only combines in a marked degree all those ele- ments that constitute it a great mart, but, from the evidences which are everywhere njiparent, it is rex)lete w^ith the best fruits of our modern civilization. But all this is about to be changed and a sys- tem of tariff is to be inaugurated in these Free Cities, not, however, through the voluntary action of their citizens, avIio are entirely satisfied Avitli their present commercial regnlations, but at the beliest of the German government. A gradual pressure has, for many years, has been brought to bear upon these cities by the government, which they can no long resist, tending towards the inauguration of many organic changes. Previous to 1866 the inhabitants of the three Free Cities, Hamburg, Bremen, and Lubeck, were not compelled to furnish soldiers for the German army. Since that date the same rule applies to them as to the rest of Germany, and emry young man is compelled to become a member of the army. At the ver^^ least he must serve either one or three years, and be trained as a soldier and hold himself ready at all times to enter into active service in any 30 European Giimpscs and Glances. emergency. Indeed, he is liable to be suddenly summoned home from any part of the world for this purpose. The same pressure which has accomplished this result is causing the radical change which is now^ being inaugurated in the commercial policy of the Free Cities, and extensive buildings are now being erected and all the necessary changes made to establish the new system of collecting- duties upon the foreign merchandise entering these ports. These changes will only affect the three cities above named, as all the goods enter- ing Germany at other points have been hereto- fore subject to the customs regulations of the general government. No doubt the advocates of both policies in America will gather argu- ments from these facts to sustain their respec- tive view^s. The fact of the abandonment of the free-trade policy here, and of the evidently increasing sen- timent against it in England, seems to sliow^ that its i)racticability is still a mooted question and that it is likely to remain so for a long time. There has been much excitement in Germany on the tariff question during the last ten years. It seems not a little remarkable that, in an old country like this, Avith its conservative institu- European Glimpses and Glances. 31 tioiis and tendencies, the great chancellor, who lias done so much to consolidate and aggrandize the empire, has for several years used his in- fluence on this question in a manner rather in- dicating the shifting policy of the politician than the conservative and reliable methods of the political economist. He has been largely influential in promoting the imj)osition of duties upon agricultural i)roducts and nwr.rding pre- miums upon similar articles exported. In some cases the interests affected by such ex- actions have been greatly damaged. This was notably the result of the special legislation, not long since enacted, involving the article of sugar. The undue stimulation thus afforded caused over- production to such an extent that the whole in- terest was ruined. Tempted by the exceptional profits, agriculturists generally engaged in the production of sugar, making large outlays for the necessary machinerj^, and adjusting all their arrangements to make it the leading crop. The disturbed and chaotic state thus produced, in this industry, has existed for several years, and the wise men of the nation are at their wits' ends to provide a competent remedy. ]!!^ot, however, being wise myself in the mys- teries which surround this subject, I am willing European Glimpses an el Glanees. to wait a few centuries longer for its practical solution. In viewing the exciting contests of the advocates of each system in the arena of finan- cial politics, I am inclined to sympathize with the Western woman who exclaimed, on witness- ing a fierce fight between her husband and a bear, the victory being for a long time in doubt : "It is a grand fight anyhow, and I don't care much whether the old man or the b'ar gets licked." To an American, fresh from the bustle of our great cities, the tide of commercial activity ebbs and flows here with a deliberation which at first seems quite exasperating. On calling at a lead- ing banking liouse, to draw money upon my letter of credit, at 2 p.m., I Avas told by a lad in charge to come at 3.30, as the cashier had gone to dinner. Thus it seems that two hours are taken out of the best part of the business day to enable that official to dine, wdiich will surely en- able him to eat with sufficient deliberation to avoid dyspepsia. While the same deliberation wx)uld, no doubt, be conducive to the health of the bank cashier in America, he Avould sjieedily discover that tlie claims of his stomach would be outweighed l)y the duties of his position. On returning at 3.30 I was ushered into a European Glimpses and Glances, 33 room about eight feet square, containing a Avindow which coninianded a view of the inner office, at which I i^resented mN letter of credit and tljen awaited further developments. The cashier scrutinized the document for the space Hamburg — Lombards Bridge. of about two minutes Avitli the greatest care. After which he handed it to a clerk, who de- voted several more minutes to its critical exam- ination, when, laying it deliberately on his desk, he proceeded to hll up two blank receipts for the 34 European Glimpses and Glances, amount to be drawn, and read them over and over again. Then, after having evidently gone through the whole process mentally several times, to make quite sure that everything was correct, he laid them on the cashier's desk. In three minutes by the watcli that official took them up and deliberately examined and com- pared them, with an air plainly indicating that he had a lurking suspicion that something w^as wrong somewhere. Finally he laid them on his desk once more, and went for his m.oney-bag and counted out the ducats with the same delibera- tion that had characterized the entire i^erform- ance. Just twenty-three minutes had elapsed since I had crossed the threshold on entering, and no one else had in the meantime been in to claim attention. The interest and admiration in- spired by this transaction naturally awakened my solicitude as to what might be the effect of several customers calling at the same time. Hamburg is situated about seventy miles from the Xorth Sea, ui:)on the broad river Elbe. It is the most important seaport of northern Germany and one of the leading commercial cities of Europe. It has been largeh^ rebuilt during the last fifty years, as more than one quarter of the city was destroyed by a terrible lire in 1842, which EiL7^opean Glimpses and Glances. 35 left 10,000 iamilies homeless. Still there may be found in the old x^arts of the city many quaint specimens of architecture which form a marked contrast with the more modern structures, and possess an especial charm for the traveller. The leading hotels and many elegant private houses are situate upon a. large basin, which is sur- rounded by a broad and attractive promenade. There are severri such basins connected by canals running through the very heart of the citj^, upon which small steam pleasure-boats are constantly passing between the different basins, gliding swiftly under the graceful arches of the numer- ous stone bridges constructed for the passage of the streets across the canals. The Zoological Gardens are extensive and well appointed, and contain one of the, finest collec- tions of animals in Europe. They are certainly a circumspect and well-behaved grouj^ of beasts, and I fancied that I discovered indications in their demeanor that they had imbibed, since ar- riving from their Jiative retreats, a healthy re- spect for the German military system, and that even the lion cast a furtive glance around to see if an officer w^as in sight before he ventured upon a hearty and well-defined roar. CHAPTER III. Leaving Hamburg — A Few Reflections — Nortliern Germany — A Glance at Bremen — Through JMiinster — At Cologne — Its Abominable Smells — The Grand Cathedral and the Services Therein— The Church of Saint Ursula — Its Awful Legend — A German's Suggestion, etc. ON leaving Hamburg, after liaving had three days' experience of continental life in that city, our movements are scarcely less delib- erate, and more in accordance Avith the rules es- tablished here for controlling the currents of daily life, than were those with which we aj)- proached our hotel on the night of our arrival. Coming from the midst of the exciting scenes and events which characterize our American life, the attempt to adjust one's self to the conditions and movements here is quite like that which he experiences in the endeavor to get on his land- legs after a long voyage. At first the dead calm of the new conditions seems strangely disturbed, and he quite symj)athizes with the drunken man who, on staggering homewards late at night, holds on to a friendly lamp-post waiting for his house to come by in the procession he sees j^assing. But it is said that tliere are exceptions to all 36 European Glimpses and Glanees. 2^7 rules, and we liiid that there is one i^lace wlieie even a German '' hurries np/' The official Avho sells the tickets and the one who weighs the baggage (no checks given) transact a surprising- amount oi" business in a few minutes inior to the departure of the train. As Ave leave by the train going in the direction of Bremen Ave cross several long railroad bridges, and Avitli a freedom from that indefinable fear Avhich one experiences in crossing less solid structures, many examx)les of Avhich Ave have in Ameiica. These bridges are composed of a series of solid iron girders extending above and beloAV the track, and forming a complete ellipse for each s^^ace betAveen the piers. All this part of northern Germany is fiat and comparatively unproductive. Great pains are taken to make the most of every natural ad- vantage, and great skill is exhibited in adjust- ing the different crops to the varietj^ of soils. The more SAvampy lands are utilized by cut- ting great quantities of peat for fuel. A tAvo hours' ride brings us to Bremen, Avhere we find an interesting mixture in architecture, elegant modern buildings being interspersed Avith ancient structures, many of Avhich Ave can readily believe to be hundreds of years old. 38 Eitropcaii Glimpses and Glances. The old ramparts and fortifications aie ar- tistically laid out in shaded walks and parks, forming a cL arming feature of the city. It derives its chief importance from its commerce, being situate upon the Weser relatively as Hamburg is upon the Elbe. Many of the old families here are said to have originally derived their wealth from the slave trade in foreign countries, and society possesses that charm which arises from centuries of ease and culture. Proceeding on our journey toward the Rhine, we pass Miinster, the capital of Westi)halia, which formerly possessed considerable commer- cial importance, but at present is quite in its decadence, and is really only a fair sam^^le of those old cities, so numerous on the Continent, which boast of their importance by virtue of the part they have enacted in the stirring scenes and events of the past centuries, but which now con- tain within their limits little else of imxDortance than the old cathedrals, churches, and other his- torical structures, Avith their innumerable relics and musty records all carefully preserved as treasures of vast worth and interest. Approaching Cologne in the early evening, we catch an inspiring glimpse of the great cathe- dial, and, on arriving and experiencing the lux- Eiiropcaii Glimpses and Glances. 39 ury of the first-class accommodations afforded in the sixth story of a leading hotel, which we have little ambition to i-epeat, and enjoying Ger- man breakfast {frii7isiiicl') — cofl^e and rolls — we proceed at an early honr to (7o the city of odoriferons exhalations, most approprintel}^ named, as sensitive olfactories demonstrate on further acquaintance. It seems self-sacrificing on the part of the citi- zens—and is no doubt due to the potent influ- ences of the greet cathedral — that they are will- ing to dispense so freely to the traveller the cele- brated " Johann Maria Farina Cologne," when such pressing necessity exists within their own limits for the use of every drop of this admirable product, with all its powerful deodorizing pro- perties. JN'early every store in the place seems to be- long to some member of the Farina family, and yet it is said to be exceedingly difficult to pro- cure a bottle of the genuine "John Maria." We, in common with all visitors here, feeling the desire to procure some of the real article, purchased in a number of different stores, but have since learned, to our great disappointment, that none of our bottles bear the label with the precise accentuation and p)unctuation indicating 40 EMvopcan Glimpses and Glances. the true and only "Joliann Marin Faiina Cologne." Ti'avellers are not often fortunate enough to get hold of a bottle of the '^simon I)ure," and so the great bulk of the ''Original Jacobs" remains at home, where, after all, it is certainly needed. Turning a corner we come into full view of the cathedral. As we aj)proacli and enter an inde- finable feeling of awe steals gradually over us. Standing within its portals when services are in progress, we heed them not. We are in a presence more august and soul-inspiring than any ceremonial ever inaugurated under vaulted arch or expanding dome. As our eyes wander upwards in wonderment, from the base of these massive pillars to their very summits, we feel our comprehension ex- panding more and more in the futile effort to grasp the beauty and completeness of it all, un- til, at last, we become as lost and impersonal as the strain of music which is rising from the group of worshippers below and mingling with the rays of sunlight that stream in through the colored windows, until it reaches the ai'ches overhead, reverberating through the vast build- ing till at last it dies of its own delight. During the morning hours, especially, a con- European Glimpses and Glances. 41 The Cologne Cathed 42 European Glimpses ami Giances. stant stream of worsliij^pers i:)ass in and out, comprising all classes and conditions of the peo- ple—the poor market-Avoman, the daily laborer, the man of leisure and the man of affairs busy with his many interests, the servant -girl and the grand dame, all turn aside from the routine of duties or pleasures which absorb their daily lives, and come into this grand temple, and clus- ter around the altar, where the rich and the poor, the high and the low, are all alike before God. No factitious distinctions are recognized here. The humblest toiler in the coarsest garb kneels beside the Avealthy devotee of fashion or the titled lord in "purple and fine linen," each be- ing regarded as a weak and erring mortal coming to confess his sins and crave the special spiritual consolation needed. Here is a lesson that ought to shame those numerous churches throughout Christendom into which a humble workingman or a poorly clad woman neither dares nor desires to enter, feeling that they are not welcome, or even tolerated— churches the "pillars" of which are, perchance, wealthy and influential men, wlio pay for an emasculated gospel, which sustains the outrages against humanity of which they are guilty, with the money of the very class they have thus legal- European Glimpses and Glances. 43 ly despoiled, and whom they banish from their holy temples. During the progress of the service several officials, in a kind of a sacerdotal uniform, their heads covered with a peculiar cap— while all other heads are reverently uncovered — march si- lently up and down the aisles and through the spaces separating the visitors from the Avor- shij)X)ers. They bear in their hands a kind of w^and, or staff, quite similar to that of a drum- major, wdiich they raise in a deprecating atti- tude whenever the visitors approach too near the worshippers or in any way disturb their devo- tions. In mai'ked contrast with the feelings inspired by the building itself were those jiroduced by several groups of Avax figures occupying promi- nent positions, and almost constantly surround- ed by kneeling devotees. We turn away from these tawdr}^ caricatures Avitli unutterable aver- sion, and back to the beauty overhead, which appeals to the highest and best we have in us, and inspires us with reverence and humility. It makes ns love our neighbor, and aw\akens Avi th- in us an unselfish spirit. It prompts us to take the hand of the poor market-w^oman, who has Just hurriedly crossed heiself Avith the holy wa- 44 European Glimpses and Glances. ter, and to kneel beside lier, with her basket of vegetables on the stone floor. As we leave the buikling we linger a moment under the main arch, our npward gaze reaching its apex, two hundred feet above — not forgetting to drop a coin into the box near the entrance — and go our way, thinking how many poor, weary devotees have dropped their mites and gone half-starved to bed, perhaps, that this structure might be reared. It is quite impossible to describe the effect of this grand temple uj^on one having an eye for the beautiful in architecture, whatever the point of observation, whether it be that gained by a position in the interior, bringing the numerous arches within the range of vision, or one com- manding a front view of the exterior, with its ornate decoi-ations, and its noble towvrs termi- nating at a point five hundred and tw^elve feet above the street below — the highest spires in the w^orld. In making the ascent of the towers by an en- trance from the outside, in order to enjoy the magnificent panorama of the cit}^ and suriound- ing country, long before w^e reached the highest attaina})h3 ])oint we are prompted to crave the fulfilment of the wish of a practical member of European Glimpses an el Gtanees. 45 our group, that lie could get the contract to put up a passenger elevator. The magnificient view of the city and surrounding country, however, fully repaid our efforts. Less satisfactory^ was our visit to the church of Saint Ursuhi, which claims the distinction of several hundred years more age than that of the great cathedral, but which lias none of the grand and beautiful features in which the latter abounds, has, however, the one distinc- tion of being the receptacle of the bones of the eleven thousand virgins who, the legend says, were slaughtered here hundreds of years ago with their mistress, St. Ursula. The onh^ aj)par- ent evidence that the legend is more than a myth is the immense number of human bones contain- ed in cases faced witli glass, set high up in the walls all around the interior of the church, un- der the altar, and in every conceivable crevice. An irreverent, materialistic German at my el- bow suggests that the virgins were probably killed by the German maidens through jealousy, as no doubt the same disparity existed then as now in the comparative numbers of the two sexes, the females being much the more nu- merous, and so, through the fear that the fair foreigners would supj)lant them in the affections 46 Eitropcan Glimpses and Glajices. of the German swains, tliey murdered them all. This is a new explanation of the presence of the bones ; but, when it is remembered what violent passions are often penned u^^ in the feminine breast, even in this age of refinement and civili- zation, it may not seem so improbable that thev should have found vent with such disastrous effect in that far off and barbarous period. This hypothesis is doubtless more in keej^ing with the peculiar characteristics of a certain type of the German mind than the rather improbable le- gend above mentioned. It is l)arely possible, however, that the author of tlie new theory has been jilted by some fair modern German maiden, and is trying to "get even" with her by this method of taking his revenge upon her sisters. In returning to our hotel, through the narrow streets conqjrising the best business portion of the city, we were once more forcibly reminded that the reputation it bears is well deserved. AVhile examining a most attractive window, a draught from the basement bore to our olfacto- lies such a concatenation of abominable smells that we beat a hasty retreat to avoid being asphyxiated. CHAPTER IV. On the Rhine— A Comparison between American and Foreign Steamboats, to the great Ativan' age of the Former— How our Baggage was cared for — Landings made by Rowboats — At Coblentz— An Extraordinary Bridge— Testing German Beer — Deleterious Effects of American Beer — "The Empress is Here"— A Military Nation— A Bit of Military Etiquette— A Call upon the Empress's Physician — A Fine Specimen of a Real Gentleman and True Physician. *np^ AVING caught our '* bird's-eye'"' view of ff-*— b Cologne, Avhicli contains mncli tliat is admirable, and nuicli that is not admirable yet possessing a certain interest, we embark on one of the nnmerons steamers that are constantlj^ plying on the Rhine, the most pictnresqne river in Europe. Some of these steamers are of con- siderable size, and well built and equipped, but neither here, nor elsewhere in the Old World, are found inland steamers at all approaching our Hudson river and Sound boats, either in size, si)eed, convenience, or magnificence. I showed one of our floating palaces recently to an English gentleman— a guest — Avho examined it with the greatest interest, and readily admitted that there was at least one thing in which the Americans 4§ European Glimpses and Glanees. had not only not stolen tlieir ideas from English- men but had surpassed all their achievements. A consideration which has, no donbt, largely determined the size of these Rhine steamers is the fact that the banks of the river are thickly studded with cities and villages, necessitating frequent landings, while many of our steamers run hundreds of miles witliout once landing. Hence the tonnage, in either case, is i)roduced through the action of the law of demand and supply. We see our baggage deposited on the deck of the steamer, and are kindly assured that it will be cared for, but ascertain that this civility is not prompted by an unselfish interest in our welfare, for, shortly after the boat leaves, an oflacial presents us a formnl bill of ninety pfennigs (twenty-two and a half cents) for its care. We feel that this is rather an ex- traordinary demand, and look helplessly at the baggage (one truidv, three valises, and a shawl- strap). Nobody seemed to be doing anything to them or for them. We look from the baggage to the bill, and from the bill to the baggage. "Ninety pfennigs," demanded the man "AVhatfor?" " For takino' care of the baggage." European Glimpses and Glances. 49 " Oh ! let the baggage alone," we replied ; "it is all right, and will take care of itself.'' The man becomes very much excited and as- sures us that the baggage cannot possibly take care of itself, that something Avill happen to it. "Besides," he added, ''this is the rule." Remembering that all rules have exceptions, it occurs to us that we may possibly be the excep- tion to this one, and under the circumstances decline to honor this draft upon our resources. AV hereupon he leaves us, rather disgusted, and in a few minutes we are waited upon by a no less important official than the captain himself, who presents the case with much dignity and circumspection, arguing that it may rain and our things will get wet, or they may in some way get disj^laced. We tell him we will take the entire risk. AVhereupon he summons all the remaining arguments he can tliink of, ar- raying them in the most convincing sequence ; and as we feel, by this time, that by their com- bined efforts they have earned the ninety pfen- nigs, and that we have their full value in expe- rience, we duly honor the draft. Whereupon i:)leasant relations are reestablished, as we per- ceive by the tiiumx)hal gleam of satisfaction seen flitting across the faces of the officials, and 50 European Glimpses and Gh ances. by the general relaxation of the facial muscles all around. The pertinacity which tlie officials, high and low, exhibit, in this counti'y, in ful- filling every jot and tittle of established rules, is marvellous, especially when any mone}^ is in- volved. The current is very iax)id, and particularly so at this season, when the rains are frequent and the snow is melting in the mountains ; hence our progress is slow, giving us ample time to enjoy the beautiful scenery and observe our fel- low-passengers and the various incidents con- nected with the trip. The passengers and freight are landed at the small towns in roAvboats, whicli come from the shore, bringing those who desire to embark on the steamboat. Whole groups of market-wo- men, who have been to Cologne with their pro- duce, are landed in this manner, and in some cases an extra boat is entirely filled with their baskets. Family jjarties and many larger groups, officers and soldiers, either by them- selves or accompanied by their sweethearts, are constantly coming and going, and while aboard enjoy themselves to the utmost over a bottle of wdne with bread and cheese. We lunch and dine on the steamer, a-la-caite. Eiu^opcan Ciliiupscs and Lilanccs. completing a most enjoyable trip by landing at Coblentz at 9 r.:\r. This charming): little tri- llllll f'1 WMl ji; 'tFF^^t' ^ The Knowing Tourist. angular city lies at the junction of the MoselJe and the E-hine, and in the embrace of command- 52 Europe an Glimpses and Glances. iiig- lieiglits which surround it on all sides, tlie highest being on the other side of the larger river and crowned with a XDicturesque old cas- tle. The latter is in full view from the window of our hotel, Avhich is on the banks of the Rhine, as are most of the leading hostelries, both here and elsewhere on the noted stream. From the same looint of view we can see hundreds of acres of vineyards producing the famous Rhine wine, which is most delicious when drunk here in its puritA", but of wbicli we receive so little in America that has not in some way been debased or, indeed, is not wljolly a counterfeit. Just below and in full view is a most extra- ordinary bridge across the river, comprised of a series of pontoons securely anchored in the swift stream, sustaining a wide and substantial X)latform, over which surges a constant stream of foot-passengers and vehicles of all descrip- tions. Every few moments an opening has to be made in this bridge to alh)w the steamers and other craft to pass. Two sections of the bridge, each borne on two of the pontoons, are separated from the main structure by the force of the cur- rent, and propelled by a small steam-engine to one side just below the ])ridge, being pre- European Glwipscs and Glances. 53 vented from floating down the rapid current by means of chains evidently anchored at the bot- tom of the river. It is amusing to see the scramble to get across before the break occurs, and to watch the tide of i)edestrians and ve- hicles surge on and pass each other as soon as the gap has been filled. Desiring to taste the genuine German beer, and being directed to a special restaurant for that purpose, we find it a typical German estab- lishment. Only one kind of beer is served, and a limited number of dishes in the Avay of edibles. The array of elaborate and ponderous beer- mugs, hung by their handles on the wall, ex- tending almost from floor to ceiling behind the counter, is quite overwhelming, and when three of them are set before us, filled with the foam- ing beverage, one of our party remarks that he did not order the Atlantic Ocean, and the young- woman says she feels like a fly about to fall into a pail of milk. The immense size of these mugs creates in our minds a doubt as to whether this is a w^holesale or a retail transaction. But we find, on doing our •^' level best" to solve the problem, that we so far fail to sound the depths of our ponderous tankards as to be compelled to take our position in tlie retail ranks, while our 54 Europe an Glimpses and Glances. neighbors all around us are, without exception, in the wholesale line, for they succeed to a man —and woman too — in touching bottom. Indeed, many of them sound the depth of several speci- mens of the same sort, and we leave them, in a halo of smoke and good cheer, calling for more. The undoubted fact that the German beer is made from malt and hoi:)S, and that most of the American beers are comparatively innocent of those useful ingredients — a variety of life de- stroying drugs being substituted therefor— sure- ly ought to prompt our countrymen either to let the noxious stuff alone severeh^, or to inau- gurate such legislation as wdll compel the manu- facture of a pure article. There can be little doubt that impure beer is the direct cause of much of the liver and kidney disease that is now so prevalent in America. In driving through the park, in which the Coblentz palace is situated, we notice a little red flag floating from the cupola, which w^e are in- formed indicates the presence of the Empress Augusta, whose summer residence tliis is. The stranger is made aware of this at every turn. Our landlord says: "The empress is here." The banker on whom we called for our lettei\s says: " The empress is here." Even the stolid European Glimpses and Glances. 55 coacliman relaxes liis solemn dignity as lie sits npriglit npoii his box, and turns his stately head with the announcement : "The emj)ress is here." By this time we are fully aware that " tlie eni- l)ress is here ! " But, all the same, the refrain " the empress is here" surges in upon us from all sides. The Empress Augusta, who is the widow of the late venerable Emperor William, seems to command the respect and affection of everybody, and there are not a few marks of her kindness of heart scattered through the region. During a ride over the hills, partially occux)ied by tlie buildings used as barracks for the soldiers in training, we pass a neat cemetery containing a large number of the bodies of French soldiers who died while confined as prisoners during the late Franco-German Avar. This was done by her prompting and at her expense. An American is here reminded at every turn that this is a military nation, by the soldiers in training at the barracks, by the marching and countermarching of military companies through the city, and by the tramp, tramp he daily hears from the window of liis hotel as the files of soldiers cross and recross the bridge of boats, recalling vividly the enactment of similar scenes 56 European Glimpses and Glances. in his own country during the period of the civil war. The great difference between this country and our own is shown by the fact that here the above scenes are of daily occurrence, year in and year out, and that all able-bodied citizens are, in one way or another, members of the army, while in America such a scene has occurred but once in a lifetime. Our army now is but a pitiful handful of 25,- 000 men, and nothing more aptly illustrates the genius of our institutions than the fact— so well demonstrated during our late war — that brigades, divisions, and corps can be suddenly created from the citizens, and in a feAv months of drilling and fighting become welded in a veteran force, capa- ble of as effective service in the field as that of the European armies, which are the result of their exhaustive methods continued through generations. Many amusing incidents occur among the soldiers in their street parades and marchings. We saw recently a little squad dawdling along in their uniforms throngh the heat, the most am- bitionless, hot, weary, or lazy souls, dragging one foot after the other as if a cannon-ball were tied to each. "Poor fellows!" we thought, "how Europe an Glimpses and Glances. 57 X^laiiily every line abont tliem tells the oppres- sion and misery of tbe whole brutal system!" When all at once, to our amazement, they stiffened up like ramrods, Hung one leg out in front at an angle of forty- five degrees with force enough to kick down a ramx)art, and then brought the heel of this ironclad member down upon the ])avement like a blacksmith's hammer, the sparks Hying in all directions. We looked on in amazement, wondering wliat liad hajipened to them, when in the distance appeared a diminu- tive corporal, the occasion of the whole excite- ment. The same awe of their superiors runs through the entire German army. A common soldier having liis boots blacked will instantly stand aside, before the oi)eration is completed, as a corporal steps up. He in turn gives place to an officer, and in a few minutes three of these ac- commodating individuals are standing in a row, bolt ujiright, with their trowsers turned up and each with one boot blacked. When the fourth has been served he passes along with dignity, and each of the other three takes his turn in regular order until the common soldier is finally reached. All of our party are in some way invalids, and, having letters to an eminent physician of Cob- 58 European Glimpses and Glarices. leiitz who has acquired a critical knowledge of the remedial qualities of the various mineral springs on the Continent in their application to the different forms of chronic diseases, we are here for the j)urx3ose of consulting him. He is the physician of the empress and resides at the jjalace. We climb a labyrinth of stairs, to find that he is engaged with the venerable widow. A second similar effort is rewarded with no better success. This time he is in attendance upon one of the ladies of her majesty's liousehold. Our third attempt is successful. Having previously left our letters, we come by appointment, and are received with the greatest cordiality by as fine a specimen of a gentleman of the old school as it has ever been our good fortune to meet. He is, although seventy years of age, unusually youthful in appearance and agile in his move- ments. He has a fine, classical profile. His ex- pressive eyes quite prepare one for the sallies of wit and humor that seem so natural to him, and his whole bearing inspires calmness and repose. He is simj)le and unaffected in proportion to Lis wisdom and knowledge. As we are informed, he is a man almost without Avants, living in a most inexpensive way, though daily surrounded by the life of the court. Indeed, it is said that Eiiropcaji Glimpses and Glances. 59 wlien the titled ladies desire to pi'esent liitn some token of their appreciation of his qualities as a man and of his services in their behalf, they are at a loss to find anything in the world that he needs. The modern medical autocrat receives you in grand state, examines and dismisses you in a few minutes, and charges you a fee that per- haps reduces you to the verge of bankruptcy, while this painstaking, conscientious man gives you hours, if need be, finds out your condition and prescribes the best course of treatment, and charges so moderate a fee that you feel almost ashamed to tender it to him. He has been physician to the empress for thirty- six vears, and the fact that her majesty has attained the age of seventy-seven, and tliat there are seventy- seven, ^'more or less according to the number on 'em," venerable ladies-in-waiting attached to her household, all seventy-seven years old or there- abouts, and that they all have been in the doctor's care during these thirty-six years, with all the ittle ailments incident to court and palace life, makes one wonder that he is not at least seventy- seven years old himself— if not one hundred and seventy-seven— instead of the vivacious, young- appearing man he is. 6o European Glimpses and Glances. During an interview of three hours the doctor makes a critical examination of each of our party, and decides that it is necessary to part us for the time being. One, with recalcitrant liver and kidneys, he orders to Carlsbad, and the other two, for sundry complications, dys- pepsia, rheumatism, etc., to Baden by Zurich, Switzerland. We part regretfully and go on our separate ways. CHAPTER V. The Rhine Scenery — Arrival ut Bingcn — The Many Hotels there and their Charges— Monument of the Consolidation of the German Empire — Famous Vineyards — Historical Remi- niscences and Legendary Lore — The Mouse Tower and its Aw- ful Story. V^^HE weather is entirely unlike anything ^^^ that can be projieiiy characterized as summer. All our available wrai)s and overcoats are called into requisition, our only regret being that we left a part of them in our stateroom trunks at Hamburg; for, in S2)ite of the feather- beds piled on top of us at night, we suffer with the cold. We confide this and our other nu- merous grievances to each other on our route to Bingen. But our attention is soon drawn from our mis- erable selves to the beautiful scenery through wdiicli we are passing, this being the most pic- turesque part of the Rhine. There is a ridge of mountains on each side of the river, at the foot of which lies a narrow plateau, occasionally in- terrupted by a spur of the adjacent mountain extending abruptly down to the water, through which tunnels liave been cut for the passage of 62 Euj'opean Glimpses and GL anccs. the railroad. Little towns lie cosily nestled along the shores. Human efforts seem to vie with nature to beautify the scene. The hand of the husbandman not only cultivates and beauti- fies the fertile valley, but stretches up the moun- tains to soften with its tender touch the rugged Old Castle on the Rhine. outlines, until it reaches their very summits, where ruins of historical old castles, wdtli bat- tered walls and towers, linger to remind the Germans that they have a grievance against the French dating back of the Franco-German war. On our arrival at Bingen we are greeted by a Etiropeaii Glimpses and Glances. 63 formidable array of hotel porters, in whose faces we detect a peculiar hungry and longing look. As the numerous omnibuses roll away from the station, some widi one or two i^assengers, but most of them with none at all, we wonder how many hotels there may be in a town of 7,000 in- habitants, and from all we subsequently learn there seems to be one for each traveller, and a large retinue of servants and officials, high and low, to attend to his wants. On being shown to our rooms, we, according to the custom of the country, inquire the price of those selected, and modestly suggest that they are rather dear. The attendant admits that they are, but adds, with a most pitiful air, ''The season is so very short and it is so cold this year that we are compelled to do the best we can for ourselves with those who do come." Such a frank avowal quite takes away our breath, but the plaintive and modest air with which this appeal to our sympathies is made so touches us that we declare the rooms to be entirely satisfac- tory, and the price, considering the circumstan- ces, most moderate. A little later, at table d'lwte we find that we are entirely alone, with the whole retinue of servants at our command. We wonder among ourselves how this extensive 64 E 7 17' op can Glimpses a7id Gla7ices, establishment can be sustained on such mea- gre patronage, and when a facetious member of our party inquires of the head-waiter if the house is always so full tlje faint semblance of a smile which the remark elicits fades away in a dismal failure. These ^nd other similar experiences so work uj)on our feelings that Ave find ourselves vying with the landlord and his able assistants in lengthening the bill which will confront us upon leaving. Every traveller who has had experi- ence with the bills of Continental landlords, and especially on the main routes of pleasure travel, will realize how completely our sympathies have been roused in behalf of this particular landlord ; and when he remembers the length of the bills usually presented on his dejiarture, he can form some adequate conception of the foimidable di- mensions of ours on this occasion, and will readily agree with us in the opinion that these landlords and their aids do not require any ac- tive assistance from their guests in this matter. AYe do not escape without paying tlie full pen- alty of allowing our sympathy to be so liberally bestowed. Throughout the visit we are the Avilling vic- tims of a series of acknowledged impositions, EiLropccDi Glimpses and Glances. 65 and at our departure we find that the entire corps of employees are mustered in double ranks, commencing with the chambermaid and the •'boots," at the foot of the stairs, and ending witli the porter at the omnibus, and by the time we have run the gauntlet of these serried ranks both oui' sym2~)athies and our small change are utterly exhausted. After Ave reach the porter — who might almost be mistaken for a major gen- eral, in his resplendent uniform — and bestow up- on him a fee somewhat commensurate with his imposing and dignified appearance, Ave roll aAA^ay to the station very nearly in a state of colhipse. AYe liave no strength or vitality left with which to describe the attractions of the place, but, fortunately, it does not seem to possess many. The one object of interest is a large mon- ument far up the hill, on the opposite side of the rivei", erected as a memorial of the consolida- tion of the German Empire. We content our- selves Avith the distant vieAv of it obtained from the AvindoAv of our hotel. AVe are assured on all sides that Bingen is a most charming place, and Ave are forced to con- clude that the cold, damp Aveather, and the un- favorable conditions of our visit, haA^e blinded us to its real beauties. As it is, we leave with the 66 European Glimpses and Glances. impression that it must be indebted mainly for its reputation to the plaintive story of the dying soldier-bo3% who little realized what a legacy of fame he was leaving to his "fair Bingen-on-the- Rhine." Bingen has a large wine trade, being in the midst of the region producing the most cele- brated German vintages. A short distance above, on the other side of the river, is Rudes- heim, which has for hundreds of years produced the wine of that name famous the world over. Still further up the river, a little back and high uj) from its banks, is Scbloss Johannis- berg, the home of Prince Metternich, the owner of the famed vineyard tluit produces the wonder- ful " Johannisberger." This vineyard of only forty acres must be the most productive piece of land of its size on the face of the earth, when we consider that it not only supplies the tables of all the crowned heads of Europe, but furnishes England and America and other countries abundanlly besides, if we can believe in the au- thenticity of the contents of the hotel Avine-lists in those countries. But, no doubt, this anoma- lous productiveness may be largely accounted for by the circumstance that, in the minds of the 'majority of the consumers of the aristocratic European Glimpses and Glanees. 67 K Castle of Rheinstein. Johannisberger, tlie label on the bottle is a more ^Dotent factor in determining the quality of 68 Ettropean Glimpses and Glances. the wine in tlie bottle than the particular vine- yard which produced it. If the owner of these forty acres is inspired with the desire to do the "greatest jDossible good to the greatest possible number," then surely he must be the happiest man on earth ; for, whatever may be the prevailing oi^inion as to the goodness or badness of wine in general, tlie wine-drinker can have but one opinion as to the quality of this noted vintage, Avhen he le- members that "a host which no man can num- ber" are daily drinking from the long-necked bottles that are duly labelled "Johannis-. berger." Moreover, it is a source of the highest gratifi- cation to know that the enjoyment of this ex- pansive benevolence is not confined to this vine- yard, as there are others of quite limited acre- age, both in Germany and France, wiiich pro- duce exquisite wines possessing the same won- derful element of expansiveness. Countless thousand bottles of St. Julien, for example, are drank every day the world over, notwithstand- ing the small area upon which it is produced. There is one rather suspicious circumstance connected with the consum])ti(m of these special brands. In the countries above mentioned a European GliDipscs and Glances. 69 bottle of almost any of them may be obtained at any price from fifty cents to fiva^ dollars, while a choice bottle of the gennine article can hardly be procnred at the vineyard where it is produced for less than the higher sum. Serious- ly, one is more likely to get shot in time of peace, or sent to the bottom of the Atlantic iu making an average ocean passage, than to pro- cure a bottle of genuine Johannisberger at any price in America. It is interesting to recall the history of the scenes which have transi^ired within view of these old castles during the hnndreds of years they have stood as sentinels over the valley of the Rhine ; and yet more interesting and curious to speculate as to those scenes and events of which we have no record. In view of the com- parative meagreness of the historical data of the middle ages and of the Robber Barons, it is not strange that the few known facts of the earlier period should have become inter- woven with much that is fanciful and weird. Many of these wonderful legends have become gracefully interwoven with the popular litera- ture of the time. One of these is that of the Mouse Tower, which is situate in the middle of the river o])- 70 Eitropean Glimpses and Glances. j)osite Bingen. It was built by Hatto, the arch- bishoi3 of the diocese, for the purpose of ex- actiDg tolls from the boats going up and down the stream. Tlie story is that the region was visited by a terrible famine, in consequence of a failure of the croj^s, and when winter came and the i)eople were starving, and the price of bread had become exorbitant, the archbisljop, Avho had bought up all the grain remaining from the jDre- vious harvest, retailed it at extravagant prices. The people begged him to throw open the granaries that they might be fed. He sneered at them and said : " Let the people go into the empty barn ; then they shall have warm bread." The starving peojjle crowded into the building, and when it was full and the doors were securely fastened the archbishop caused it to be set on fire on all sides. The fearful cries issuing from the building did not move him. He stepped upon the balcony of his palace and cried out : '' Listen to the piping of the mice." The shrieks soon ceased, and all the poor wretches perished, being buried under the fall- ing walls. But, the legend runs, ere long they were fully avenged. Under the ashes of the barn it suddenly became alive. An innumerable host European Glliupscs and Glances. of mice crept out, filled the street leading to tlie arclibisliop's palace, covered the steps of the splendid edifice, penetrated into every oi^ening in the interior. The archbishop sent out his servants to destroy the troublesome guests, but in vain. As fast as they were crnshed fresh swarms appeared to take their x^l'^ces. The archbishop escaped into a remote i:)art of his palace. The mice were upon him immediately, pulling upon his robes and gnawing his shoes. He lied in terror from the palace. The inexora- ble mice pursued him. He sprang into a boat and i)ushed out into the rapid current, and, thinking himself safe from his pursuers, landed at the tower and shut himself up in the upper- most apartment. But the little avengers were not daunted b}^ the roaring elements. Myriads, covering the steps, climbing the walls, and gnawing at the doors, rnshed into his hiding-place. There was a dreadful cry and all became still. Afterwards some courageous boatmen found the skeleton of the archbishop, wliich alone had escaj^ed the rapacity of the mice. It is, doubtless, now^ claimed by his descendants that the archbishop was a most distinguished and Avorthy prelate, and that this slanderous tale was invented by 72 European Glimpses and Glances. the dissolute monks whose conduct he had from time to time severely reprobated. It is stated, in a little volume recounting some of their an- cient legends, that the ''Mouse Tower has no- thing at all to do with the mice!" So we will give the archbishop the benefit of the doubt. CHAPTER XL At Baden near Zurich— The Difficulty of finding the Place — How different in America! — Quaint and interesting Watering- Place — A very old Bathing Resort — Taking the Sulpimr- Baths and their Effect — Hotel Keeping — Excellent and Praise- worthy Attentions — The Casino — Its " Little Horses" — An odd Game of Chance— The Theatre— This Baden little known but a Charming Place. OUR objective point being Baden near Zu- rich, we ask at the dej^ot for tickets to that phice. The agent has never heard of it; the only Baden is Baden-Baden, in Germany. After a long conversation, in which we do not succeed in convincing him that Baden near Zu- rich exists, we are obliged to content onrselves with tickets to Basle, wdiicli is about two liours' ride fi-om our destination. It seems extraordi- nary that in going from Bingen-on-the-Rhine to a point in Switzerland celebrated for Imndreds of years as a watering-place, the trip being made by railroad in twelve hours, it is impos- sible to procure through tickets, or even to learn of the existence of such a place. We in- quire of at least a dozen railroad officials all along the ronte, and not one of them had ever 73 74 Eui'opcan Glwipses and Glaiices. heard of Baden near Zurich, and not until we reach Basle can we get the least satisfaction. This state of things may be according to the rules regulating the railroads in this country, but we api^rehend that foreigners travelling here, and especially those unacquainted with the language spoken, will come to the conclusion that they are travelling under difficulties. At Basle we procure tickets for our destina- tion and arrive in due time, weary Avitli the long journey and exhausted by our efforts to furnish brains to these stereotyped railroad of- ficials. We cannot help thinking how quickly a ticket agent in America, under similar circum- stances, would furnish the required information. If the point to be reached was outside of the limits of the road he represented, and he was not fully posted, he would refer to the railroad guide, and soon answer the query satisfactorily. During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries Baden was the favorite resort of the ci'owned heads and the nobility. It does not, hov/ever, enjoy that marked distinction at present. The discovery of new springs, and the caprices of fashion, have turned the current in this respect in other directions. This is now one of the most quaint and interesting watering-places in Eu- European Glimpses a net Gh ances. /D rope, and appears to be frequented mainly by the people of Switzerland and Germany, though a few French and English, and now and then a stray American, find their way here. A doctor who still keeps the peace of old times in his soul, Bridge over the Rhine at Basle. and knows how to value a country life, sent us to this place. This Baden is, according to history, the oldest trans-Alpine bathing resort. Its praises were sung by the historian Tacitus in the year 69, and Roman antiquities have been discovered 76 E7iropean Glimpses and Glances. here from time to time and preserved in the museums. The Romans, and after them the lords of the middle ages, built their fortresses on the crests of the hills which confine tlie raj^tid river. Houses sj^rang up under the pro- tection of these strongholds, and, like the castles themselves, were often burned down and rebuilt during many centuries of turbulence and up- heaval. A bridge was stretched across the rushing stream, and a massive building erected on the other side as a fortification, with narrow slits in the walls for windows. The warm springs shoot up not far below this bridge, in the lap of the narrow valley, at an abrupt bend in the river. In olden times the princes came here for their baths, and they tell of one who had made himself especially popular, and to wliom the citizens brought j)res- ents of wine, sheep, and oxen, and a drink of honor in a great can. The prince was just in his bath, where the robust natures of that period often spent half a day. He called the deputation into his presence, stretched forth his sinewy arm for the great wine-can, which held nearly as much as his bath tub, and drank a mighty draught. Centuries have passed since, and many times Europcaji Glimpses and Glances. "j"] war and devastation lias SAvept tliroiigli the narrow valley, but tlie siilplmr waters bubble forth again and again from out the ruins, and now a hotel stands over each one of these springs, and almost every drop of their healing waters passes down the throat or over the limbs of some poor, suffering mortal; for, in our X)ro- gressive age, the burghers and farmers nurse and conserve their bodies as well as the i)rinces. Deep in the narrow valley, at the river's bend, cluster a dozen more or less stately hotels. As a si3ring seems to be a necessary adjunct to each hostelry, and as no new^ springs are discovered, the number of these public houses does not in- crease. The entire basement of each is devoted exclusively to the baths. The bathing begins as early as five in the morn- ing. One hears the clattering of the slii^pers on the bare staircase, and sees the strange proces- sion wandering down to the basement, clothed in variegated garb, some in white like shivering ghosts returning to their sepulchres at dawn. On each side of the long, dark passage the tombs open. In each is a six-foot excavation in the solid stone filled with water. We descend into this damj^ crypt to come up again renewed and strengthened. A crust of sulphur swims /S European Glimpses and Glances, upon the surface, which mingles with the water as we splash and move about ; thinking of the n3^mj)hs whose bodies, according to the German legend, ended in fish-tails, we find to our aston- ishment that our owai extremities look quite uncertain and fish-tail -like in the bluish water. AVe stand up to see if our legs are all right, wiien, as if to disenchant us, a stream of water breaks over us sufficiently strong to bring us to our senses. The sun pours through a little win- dow at the side, uniting with the mist of the douche; the fire and the water perform a mys- terious marriage around us, and we feel the delight of it. Suddenly the door opens ; a vast expanse of Avhite comes in, and when we recover from the tenor of this apparition we climb out and turn our backs confidingly to it, whereupon the arms of the bath-master envelop us and rub us down vigorousl3\ Being dried and warmed, we don such apparel as we have thought necessary to make a w^orthy apj)earance in the slippered procession, wend our way upstairs, tuck ourselves up warmly in bed, and rest for an hour, having perchance previously refreshed our inner man with a drink of the sulphur water warm from the bowels of the earth. These baths bring us into contact Etiropcan Gliuipscs and Glances, 79 with the original strength of nature, and we feel soniething like the giant in the Grecian myth, who, being a son of mother earth, was uncon- querable so long as be remained in contact with her, and wliom Hercules could only overcome by lifting him from off the earth and crushing him in the air. But we are more highly gifted than this poor son of eartli, for we also gain strength from the bracing air of the AIjds, and rest our weary souls in the peaceful stillness of this qnaint old tOAvn. When the body has resumed its normal tem- perature we dress and hnd oui'selves ready for breakfast, which consists of a lonely roll and coffee, and, perchance, we sometimes think it would be nice to sit down to a good, "square" American breakfast. But this is the universal morning meal here, either because it is the most appropriate and healthful or because it is the fashion. No matter which, we eat it and soon learn to be quite satisfied. IS'ext to our hotel is a substantial building used as a bathing-house for the very poor, and periodically the band, which plays from time to time in the different squares and parks, comes and gives an entertainment to these poor bathers. Every Sunday, as the guests of the hotel sit at So Etiropean Glimpses and Glances. dinner, a contribution-box is ixissed around, and all are asked to give something for the support of this most worthy charity, which they willing- ly do. AVe never tire, in this most extraordinary old town, in picking up the links that connect the present with the far-distant past. Here the past speaks to iis. If we have the i^atience to listen, we catch the tones which come to our ears ring- ing with the reverberations of full twenty cen- turies. And yet, we find here all the comforts of the present. Everything at onr abiding-place moves Avith the regularity of clock-work, and most smoothly, too, as the wheels are of the most delicate material — Swiss girls, who know how to combine attentive service with a free re- publican si:)irit. Hotel keeping is followed as an art in Switzer- land. The rich i3eople of the country— with the exception of the manufacturers in the larger cities, like Basle, Zurich, Berne, and Geneva- are hotel-keepers, who gather their harvest from the summer travellers. They are known for their good management, and oftentimes the daughters of respectable and well- to- do families are entrusted to them to learn the art of serving and conducting a household. We recently saw European Glimpses aiiei Glances. 8i a pretty, healthy girl, in stiff white sleeves and silver ornaments, waiting upon the table at one of the Swiss hotels, who was worth $40,000— a large fortnne in Switzerland. It is wonderful how, in this well-regulated houseliold, no service is too small to be consider- ed, and no little extra trouble for one's comfort or pleasure avoided. A rose that we chanced to leave on the dinner table is smiling at us later in a glass of fresh water. Are you unwell, and does your appetite crave some dainty extra dish, it is provided most willingly, with no extra charge, and when it is served the landlord stands by regretting that you are not well. The same order and consideration for one's comfort are found also outside of the house. Half an hour after a rain tlie foot-paths are dry and one can venture forth without fear of soiling his feet. The little pebbles are all carefully raked to- gether. The lawns are kept short and smooth ; no weeds are tolerated anywhere. The fonntains in the parks are alive with ducks and swans, who play hide-and-seek among the rocks and artificial grottoes. In the middle of the park, on a somewhat elevated foundation, is a stately building called the Ca- sino, with a large hall for dancing and general 82 Ein^opcan Glimpses and Glances. amusements, a I'eading-room, and a restaurant. In good weather a band of twenty pieces plays in front of tliis resort, and in rainy weather they play in its big hall. Some of the visitors amuse themselves in an adjoining room either as spectatois or partici- pants in a comparatively harmless game of chance called "the little horses." These little horses, eight in number, are ridden by daring jockeys in variegated waistcoats, each bearing a number corresj)onding with one of the tickets sold to the bystanders. They do not get tired or dizzy, for they are made of wood like the Tiojan horse. The little horses run around the table in grooves, being propelled by machinery under the table. They are watched with eager interest, and it is not always the swiftest that wins in this race, but the one who can curb him- self and stop at the goal, which is a line drawn from the centre to the circumference on one side. The spectators vie with each other in calculating the time it Avill take for the force propelling each horse to become sj^ent, and recognizing in ad- vance the winner. Sometimes two horses run very close together, and one gets his head just over the line, while the other stoj^is jnst short of it and wins ; which reminds us of the race be- European Gliiupscs and Glances. Z^^ tween the hare and the crab. The hare had been running for dear life, and looked around triumphantly just at the goal to see what the crab was doing, when he heard the cry of "vic- tory." The crab, who hnd fastened himself to the tail of the hare, had been swept around to the goal b}^ the too early triumph of the enemy. Thus cleverness wins in the race with sj^eed. The cleverest person connected with the game of little horses seems to be the proprietor, who is sure to win every time, as he takes for himself one of the eight francs paid for tlie tickets, wliile one of the eight holders of the tickets gets the other seven, and each of the others, of course, loses the franc paid for his ticket. Many of the players' faces grow longer, and their hands grope more slowly and anxiously in their pockets. " Constant dropping wears away the stone," and many gropings empty the full- est pocket. Now, all pockets are not full to begin with, and through the unkindness of fate those who have the least are most often the losers. The one whose misfortunes touched us most nearly was the thin, forlorn young man with bushy hair and monstrous eye-glasses, in whom we recognized the flutist of the band. He hesitated a long time before putting his hand 84 European Glimpses and Glances. — with simulated indifference — into Lis great pocket to venture forth witli one of the few francs his lungs had labored so hard to earn. He seldom won, which so distressed us that we imagined we could hear his flnte i:>laintively be- wailing his loss amidst the whole orchestra. Near him played carelessly a lich young man, wdio very often won. He, too, noticed the mis- fortune of the pale flute-player, and one day suggested that they should combine their chances and divide tlie result, and w^e rejoiced in the delicacy of the rich young man, wdio of- fered to share with the j^oor one not his fortune but his good luck. That night the flute sound- ed as cheerily as the clinking of francs in a full pocket. The income from the game is used to keep the Casino and garden in order, and for this purpose also each guest of the hotel is taxed one franc a day, wdiich is added to his bill. There are two theatres here, which, if they do not exactly furnish high art, at least bring satis- faction to simple souls who are liap2:)y and easily satisfied. We saw a lady bathed in tears last night in the first act of William Tell in anticipa- tion of the tragic scenes which Avere to come. She seemed determined that the comfort of w^eeping, for which she had paid, should not escape her. European LUiiiipscs and Glances. 85 Tlioiigli comparatively little known, Baden near Zuricli is a lovely and picturesque spot. Witli its abrupt and more or less lofty hills on all sides, several of which are crowned with old ruins ; wdth its interesting valleys thickly dotted with highly cultivated fields and vineyards, which extend way up the mountain-sides ; wdth the rapid river rushing down through the very centre, it has a setting not easily matched, and possesses a charm peculiarly its own. CHAPTER yil. An Old-Fashioned and Simple People — Their Primitive Mode of Living — Preponderance of Women, who do all the Drudgery —How they hoe their Way through Life — The Average Business Man's Methods — A Country of Vineyards — Wine versus Tea Drinking — A great many Holidays — Instances of the Unselfishness of the People — Scenes on the Drives. IN keex)ing witli the picturesque surround- ings of tills little spot are tlie old-fashion- ed and simple ways of the jieople. The houses are built mostly of stone, or brick stuccoed, the roofs being covered with tiles made of burnt clay. All the trimmings — the door-knobs, locks, latches, hinges, and window-fastenings — are ex- ceedingly pi'iniitive and massive, and the whole effect is that of old-fashioned solidity. The farm buildings are generally long and nar- row, and the same roof covers the habitation of the people and the domicile of the animals. The matter of ventilation seems not to have been considered, either for the people or the animals, as we notice that the windows and doors are all kept tightly closed, and we naturally conclude that the quality of the air would be about the same in both deiiartments. We had the plea- European Glimpses and Glances. 87 sure of visiting the cows on several occasions, and refrained from investigating the atmosphere at the other end of the building, being quite satisfied with the sample already obtained. Tlie carts and wagons and bams, and even the farming implements, nre of ancient design and manufacture, each generation having resisted in- novations and clung tenaciously to the old ways. There is no market here for improved mowing machines or reapers, and the introduc- tion of modern farming appliances would create a revolution. It Avould take the stolid, i3lodding women out of the field and remand them to the duties of the household where they belong, and to the care of their neglected and unkempt chil- dren. At present the women greatly outnumber the men as farm laborers, and no doubt the con- servatism of ages of fixed habit in this regard will preserve the same relative iDroportion, and this degrading spectacle will continue to mar the beautiful landscape for hundreds of years to come. Comparatively few men are seen in the field, and scarcely ever a young man. The lat- ter go into the army, or to some neighboring city to jirocure more lucrative employment, or emi- grate to America, where they soon forget the old, plodding ways left behind and become assimi- 88 Europeaji Glijupses and Glances. lated to the new conditions. Many of them marry American girls instead of returning to their old homes for wives, thns lessening the already meagre chances of their own country- women to procure husbands. We met on the steamer, on our recent journey across the Atlantic, an illustration of this, a young German who had been in America only a few years. He had settled in California, estab- lished a successful business as a builder, married an American girl, and was on his way to his old home to spend his honeymoon among his rela- tives. He had become so thoroughly imbued with the spirit and energy of his new home that even before he had lauded in his old one he had a feeling that he would not be content to re- main long, and that he would be irresistibly drawn back into the activities he had left be- hind. In a country where the home life is so much thought of, and where every girl hoi:>es to be married and begins when yet a child to knit the stockings for her trousseau, it is pitiful that only a few are likely to realize their ideals. Some of them are comely maidens, and one can scarcely realize that in a few years their uncov- ered blonde heads, already discolored by expo- European Glivipscs and Glances. 89 sure, will be as gray as tliose of their grandmo- thers wlio work beside them ; and their skins, now brown and ruddy, will become sallow and wrinkled ; and their muscles, now vigorous and well rounded, shrivelled and hardened until the last trace of beauty has departed. For some reason which we have not yet dis- covered, the Swiss and German women seem to have a x3redilection for the hoe, and the hoe seems, if anything, more ponderous than the rest of the farming imi)lements, and more fit for the grasjj of a giant than for the hand of a woman. But in blissful unconsciousness of this they hoe on from year to year. After a certain age they all look a good deal alike, and one cannot helj) thinking, There is that same woman with that same hoe digging away for dear life in that same eternal spot. The sinewy, sunburnt arms and many-shaded, faded hair, the coarse shoes and garments, the determined, stolid, everlasting dig, dig, dig, is repeated again and again all through the landscape. One wonders why they do not hurry, so they can rest or do something else. One wonders how they ever managed to turn into such poor, monotonous hoeing-machines. But there is no answer in their movements or their faces — one is about as expressionless as the 90 European Glimpses and Glances. other, and both seem to mean work, and beyond that have little significance. Nothing seems to claim tlieir attention or distract them. They scarcely look up as one passes. Even those who chance to be mothers, and whose little ones lie asleep in their rough baby- wagon near by, or toddle about the fields in the sun, give their whole minds to the hoe. While the Swiss and Germans make excellent citizens wdien stirred up by our American life, in their own country home they are inclined to stagnation. In and around Baden we find them deliberate and slow in their business, and rather painstaking than striving. Instead of using their time in getting ahead, they spend it in car- ing for the little things, being more conservative than aggressive in their methods. Not a straw or blade of grass goes to waste. Every stick or chiiD that can be utilized for fuel is saved. In spite of the abundance of fruit we see little branches with only two or three apples carefully tied up to the stronger limb above to insure the safety of the twig bearing them. Not infre- quently the utilities impinge upon the elegancies if not upon the comforts of life, for we often see the precious manure piled up directly before the front door of the dwelling. Europcaii Glimpses and H lances. 91 The average citizen of this Baden gives an hour or two in the morning to his business. At ten A.M. he finds it necessary to repair to an adjacent restaurant, refresli himself with a glass of wine, and talk over the news of the day with his neighbors. At twelve he ai:)propriates the good things his frau has prepared for him for dinner, after which he again finds it necessary to talk over the news at another restaurant while slip- ping his coffee, tlius attending to his digestion undisturbed until two p.m. After this he de- votes a couple of hours again to his mikl form of business. At six he repairs once more to one of his favorite resorts to spend another hour and take more wine. At seven he goes to supper, and finishes the day by visiting one of the nu- merous societies, to several of which he belongs. There they talk and sing and pass from mouth to mouth the drinking-horn, filled wdth the golden wine. Thus they realize the tradition of the German song : " The old Teutons lived on both sides of the Rhine ; On bearskins they lay, and for ever drank wine." We had often wondered that so many houses, both in the city and country, were ornamented witli quaint old signs, indicating that they ful- 92 European Glimpses and Glances, filled the conditions required for tlie supplying of the daily wants of the class' of citizens above described. But, in spite of all these temptations to indulgence, in spite of the fact that so many spend several hours a day over the bottle, we have never seen a drunken man during the whole month that we have been here. The ex- planation of this is that they drink nothing but wine made from the neighboring vineyards. Bordering upon German}^, and having a cli- mate and soil suitable for the culture of the grape, this is pre-eminently a country of vine- yards. Thousands of acres can be seen from almost any elevated j^oint in or near the city. The grapes are mostly used for wine, and all the wine is consumed at home. Hence wine is the universal beverage, of the rich and the poor alike. Our landlord, who makes his own wine, showed us through his cellars, and told us that he used about 4,000 gallons for his guests during the season, and nearly the same amount of an inferior quality for his servants. Wine takes the place not only of the strong liquors, but of tea, which, among the peasants, is only di*ank as a medicine on the prescription of a physician. There can be little doubt that pure wine, made from the juice of the grape, is a much more Eui'opcaii (ilii)ipscs and Glances. 93 healthful beverage than most of the teas that reach the consumer, all of which contain a large amount of tannin, and many, especially the green teas, foreign ingredients which are x^oison- ous. The great i3revalence of dysjDepsia and other kindred diseases in America, and the al- most entire freedom from them liere, may be largely attributed to the general use of tea in the one and Avine in the other. It is remarkable that during the whole month of our visit here we have not only not seen the semblance of a bar, but we have not seen whiskey, brandy, rum, gin, o]- any other distilled spirit. Indeed, we should not know, by any visible token, that a drop of either could by any possibility be obtained, while wine seems to be everywhere present. Would it not for ever settle the question, about which there seems to be so much honest difference of opinion — whether j)ure wines ought to be classed with distilled liquors, pure and impure, in the great crusade against intemperance — if some single State of the Union could be selected, with a climate and soil suited to the culture of the grape, and the making and use of wine within its limits encouraged in every way by all classes, and the manufacture and use of distilled spirits of all kinds discouraged, both 94 Europea7i Glimpses and Glances, by appropriate legislation and by enlightened public opinion ? It seems as tliongli the honest and earnest men and women who are striving to lessen the evils of intemperance could be better employed in making the above experiment than in 2)ushing to extremes their present unreason- able and ineffective methods. While the grape seems to be the principal crop here, much hay and grain is also raised, and im- mense quantities of fruit, especially apples and pears. But it is nearly all natural fruit, and very small, and has a crude and uninviting aj)- pearance. Many of the trees are very large and so heavily loaded that the branches have to be jjropped up, a dozen or more supports being sometimes i^laced under the limbs of a single tree. These trees are vigorous and abundant bearers, and if grafted Avith choice varieties would x)i'oduce delicious fruit, but the owners seem to think the old w^ay the best. The people have an extraordinary number of holidays and give their Avhole mind to celebrat- ing them. Something in the way of innocent amusement takes place every Sunday, which day is always given up, more or less, to relaxa- tion and enjoyment. The fiist Sunday we were here a boat-load of young men from Zurich European (ilimpscs and Glances. 95 came sailing down the rapid Linimat, singing songs and. having a general good time. The next Sunday a large athletic society of i)easant boys, from the neighboring agricultural dis- tricts, ariived and took possession of the parade ground on the edge of the city, where they had matches in running, jumping, climbing, Avrest- ling, trapeze performances, etc., in the presence of an admiring multitude. They acquitted themselves creditably, and the winners were awarded prizes of belts, stockings, sashes, lamps, sausages, hams, bottles of wine, etc. One in each group canied around his neck a large ox-horn, ornamented with ribbons and filled with wine, from which the members drank from time to time. There is a delightful simplicity and apparent unselfishness among tlie common people which w^e often see illustrated in small matters. On stoi)ping (me day at a little stand where several old wT^men were selling fruit, we purchased a pound of cherries of one of them, wdien, spying some rather more attractive ones in a basket be- longing to another woman, w^e also purchased a pound of her. She had no j^aper to do them up in, when the first one came forw^ard, with a per- fect good-nature, and furnished the paper for 96 Eit7'opeaii Glirnpscs and Glances. that purj)ose. She evidently had no desire to monoj)olize our custom or get the better of h@r neighbor. One of the cabmen, too, proved his disinterest- edness, Avlien Ave were about starting out for our first drive, by assuring us that there "was no- thing to see liere." His price, he said, was three marks an hour. He Avas willing to take us if we said so, but there was nothing to see. His whole manner seem to regret the conditions Avhich forced this avowal, and that he should be obliged to assist in a course which could only re- sult to our disadvantage. Wljen we finally in- sisted upon going he turned his attention to the horses and carried on a confidential conversa- tion with them as we Avent along, only inter- rupted from time to time to turn the crank at his feet which Avorks the brake on the wheels., creating the impression that he had the contract for grinding the coffee for the whole neighbor- hood, and that he carried his cofl'ee-mill along with him to economize time. He turned it vig- orously, even where the descent Avas so gradual as to be hardly perceptible ; so, betAveen the screAving of the brakes for the doAvn grades, and the unscreAving for the up grades, the cofi'ee-mill Avas in constant operation. European Glimpses and Glances. 97 The carriages are set low, on very small wheels, and are such as one can easily imagine may have rolled through the streets of Pompeii nineteen hundred years ago. On returning from one of these drives we pass nnder the sliadow of the old fortification, around which a croj) of chil- dren are scattered on the ground like apples shaken from the trees — hatlessand shoeless little dervishes, dancing about in their rags, running and screaming and kicking with delight, rolling down hill on top of each other, and some of them tugging about the carriages of tlieir infant brothers and sisters, though they are scarcely tall enough to i^eep over the edge of them ; and the baby brothers and sisters rub tlieir tiny fists in their eyes, yawn, and stretch their little fat limbs, wliile the mothers of these tender babes are wielding, in the distant fields, the everlast- ing hoe, and the brave fathers are emptying, in the near cafe^ the everlasting bottle. CHAPTER YIII. Baden-Baden in Germany — How it differs from Baden near Zurich — The Kurhaus — Reminiscences of that great Gam- bling Place — Quartered in an Elegant Villa — A Visit to the old Castle Hohenbaden— The Castle of Heidelberg— How the Students "Paint the Town Red "—Very like the American Cowboys — Student Duels, etc. QUITE in contrast witli Baden near Zurich in Switzerland is Baden-Baden in Ger- many. Nature has endowed each with its pecu- liar charm. From the hills around the Swiss town we can see the snow mountains of Switzer- land. But the same hills which afford such a far view, being of a rocky character, crowd the rushing river, and the space allowed to the town and the springs is very limited. In Bad en-Baden the sj) rings are much less ef- fective. There is no rushing river, but only a trifling little bit of smooth water, flowing down flat like the sandy- colored hair of a lady, and where it enters the town it is narrowed into a small compass, like a lady's tresses, while many bridges span it like ribbons. But this dainty little coquette, however shallow, rolls in w^ealth, since every foot of the land on its banks is so 98 European Glimpses and Glances, 99 precious that the golden coins required to pur- chase it would almost cover its surface. This babbling little brook is dignilied with the title of the Oos River. The Great Conversation House. The hills around Baden-Baden are not so crowded together as those at the Swiss Baden, where they seem like the rugged feet of the not far-distant giants. The German bathing-place loo European Glimpses and Glances. glistens in the sun, enjoying, as it were, a sun- bath in the vast basin, stretching up its spires and domes amid great trees of rare beauty, and expanding into fresh lawns. It is an inter- national place, as the Russian and Greek church cupolas and the hard lines of the Eng- lish Ex)iscopal churches indicate. White Rus- sian horses, with their long manes and tails, are driven about at a dashing speed by outre- look- ing drivers in fur-trimmed liveries, the aristo- cratic owners meanwhile sitting inside with fro- zen dignity which seems to disdain all the sur- roundings. The most gorgeous villas, with their great parks, belong to Russian princes, and many of that international class of people who pass their winters in London, Paris, Berlin, or Italy have their spring and fall residences here, living, nevertheless, a retired, x^i'i^'^te kind of a life. Parts of the lawns are htted up for Eng- lish games, although perhaps Homburg is more popular with the insular nation than Baden- Baden. The Lichtenstein Allee is a famous promenade, bordered with gnarled old oaks, pines, and ma- ples, one of which was struck by tlie bullet fired at Emperor William in 1861. Here the ladies show their toilets in the afternoon, after spend- European Glimpses and Glances. loi iiig the morning in the brilliant shops and magasins. Three times a daj^ a band plays in front of the great Kurhaus, which is now com- paratively little used. Originally erected for gambling purposes, it is preserved just as it was left when the edict went forth abolishing gam- bling, thus keeping undisturbed in its gorgeous halls the memories of the exciting times of twenty years ago, when the enormous mirrors, lighted by thousands of candles, showed many faces excited with the passions of loss and gain. Here might have been seen not only some poor musician risking his hard-earned francs, but, side by side with the poor, princes and dukes have staked their fortunes, and generally lost, since the chances of the game were so much against the players that the owners were able to spend millions of dollars for the embellishment of Baden-Baden and its surroundings, in order to draw hither the luxury-loving peoj^le of the whole world. Here for a long series of years ex- travagant scenes of revelry and excitement were enacted a]l through the gay season. If these walls could speak they would tell tales of hope and despair that would almost curdle the blood in one's veins. Many a young scion of nobilitj^, when, in the hot excitement, the tide had turned I02 European Glimpses and Glances. against him, and lie had perhaps staked the last of his possessions and lost all, has in desj^air blown out his brains on the spot. The happy owner of a villa here now enjoys the benellt of all those millions spent in the gambling times. Much of the money won in the '^trente et quarante^^^ either by the bank holder or the x^layers. remained in Baden-Baden. There is no doubt that the possession of many a graceful villa has often turned upon the cast- ing of the dice, and you see by the lavish way the money has been thrown upon the walls, so to say, that the owners were afraid to trust themselves another day, lest they should lose it, as they had won it, at the gaming table. At present another class of people live in some of these villas, enjoying the faiiy-like treasures which were created by fortunes lasting but a day. It seems almost as if the whole of Baden- Baden had passed through the hands of the sheriff before coming into the possession of its present owneis, many of whom are retired caj^i- talists or officials who had means enough at their command to enable them to step into these empty mansions, left by the Yanity Fair that had been joreviously enacted here. When we arrived in town we were told, by European Glivipscs and Glances. 103 the owner of the hotel we selected, that we could not be accommodated in the hotel itself, being rather a large party, but, if it pleased us, we could occupy a neighboring villa and take our meals at the hotel, whereupon we followed him on a tour of inspection. He led us through a garden to a spacious building Avith an impos- ing portico. We put our hand on our purse, determining to keep cool and act with due de- liberation. The walls of the am^ole hall were covered with genuine Gobelin tapestry repre- senting the most stirring scenes in Roman his- tory. We passed it, to find ourselves in a great high salon, which seemed of enormous size through the reflection of immense mirrors on all sides, and from the walls of which, between the mirrors, angels and demons carved in wood smiled or grinned at us, like personifications of the different moods of the former owner, who, we imagine, must have been one of those whose money rolled on the green table of the Kurhaus. Before us the door opened upon a terrace lead- ing to the front garden, filled with magnolias, palms, and all the variety of trees, plants, and flowers that thrive in the mild climate of Baden- Baden. Beyond the grounds runs swiftly, with its cnnning laugh, the little coquette of a river, I04 European Glimpses and Glances. a fit representative of the sliallow minds of those Parisian ladies who used to receive in their hips the golden coins showered upon them hy the gamesters. Beyond the river the soft hills give such repose to the eye that we cannot help hop- ing that even the past owner enjoyed its calm- ness from time to time in the midst of his revels. Bat it is not only under the above condi- tions that villas change hands quickly. Even the more settled class of people tire of this kind of projierty quicker than they expected to when they were first charmed by the beauties of it ; most likely become weary of the pon- derous machinery required for tlie running of such gorgeous establishments, w^hile easy ac- commodations await them on ever}^ hand at far less expense and trouble. Besides, people of the present generation, with their w^eak nerves, need continuous change of surroundings to stimu- late their weary minds. Here, in this old villa, we are spending our two weeks, enjoying the beautiful and, to us, novel surroundings. Especially delightful was a visit to the old castle Hohenbaden, which, from the twelfth century until the construction of the new castle, several hundred feet below. Eitropcan Glimpses and Glances. 105 was the seat of tlie margraves, and is now a very extensive group of ruins. Tlie walls of the main building have withstood the action of the ele- ments for many centuries, and stand erect more than three stories high. All the floors, ceilings, and partition walls have fallen to the ground and crumbled into dust, while the gay cavaliers who once made them merry have been buried and forgotten. Inside of these giant walls, i)ro- tected by them from the wind, great trees have grown up, themselves hundreds of years old. In the windows above, amid the clustering ivy, iEolian har^^s have been j)laced, whose strings when swei^it by the wind give voice to the old ruins, and seem to tell of those who have lived and died here. Light galleries lead us up to the highest of the windows, so that we may look out through them over the broad valley of the Rhine to our right, over the town of Baden-Baden to the left, and over the Black Forest all round, which, from this point soutlnvard, tills the great curve of the Rhine with its sombre beauty. It is our good fortune, shortly after viewing these ruins, which have become a part of the sur- rounding nature, to see the castle of Heidelberg, which, erected in 1556, is much younger, better io6 Etwopcaii Glimpses and Gla7ices. preserved in consequence, and still possesses great importance as a work of art, being the finest example of Renaissance arcliitectnre in Germany. It yet shows nearly all the statues in the niches of its richly ornamented fagade, many of them with smiling faces and flowing garments, and even the graver faces among them seem to indicate no more formidable intent than the stern determination to empt}^, even at the cost of their lives, the great tun in the cellar be- neath, in spite of its capacity of fifty thousand gallons. This tun is empty noAv. Whether the statues were erected to those who es^Decially con- tributed to this end we cannot in truth tell, but we are rather inclined to doubt it, since some of the faces bear a resigned expression, which may have been caused b}- their failure in this respect. The most happy consumer seems to have been the dwarf court jester, whose wooden image stands beside the great tun, smiling in conscious- ness of his unbeaten record of four gallons a day. In fact, this grimly smiling dwarf by the tun may be considered the true patron saint of Heidelberg, where the study of consuming wine and beer is perhaps foremost of all. We chance to be intimately acquainted Avith a gentleman who thoroughly knows the life of European Glimpses and Glances. 107 Heidelberg Castle. io8 Eu7^opean Glimpses and Glances. Heidelberg students, and from his descriptions we are inclined to infer tliat their stern deter- mination is to revive those mediaeval times when the monster tun was built. Thus it happens that these young Germans of to-day, living in the midst of a civilized country, remind us in their ways and customs of the cowboys of our wild prairies. As the latter enter the Western towns, shooting out the lights through the win- dows in a spirit of dare-devil recklessness, so the young Teutons drive with mad sjoeed through the crowded streets, followed by their immense dogs, who leajD and jump wildly about, clearing the pavement of all the frightened citizens. The inhabitants of Heidelberg, as well as those of the AVestern towns, tolerate the extravagances of the desperate young fellows because they sj^end their money so freely among them. It is not the great bulk of the students we now speak of, but of a small minority w^ell organized in societies, read}^ at any moment to stake their lives for the pleasure of feeling entirely unre- strained, and to run into debt, to an extent which might ruin their fathers, for the pleasure of turning topsy-turvy all Heidelberg. These societies arrange among themselves every week, without any provocation, a series European Glimpses and Glances, 109 of duels. On these occasions the vital parts are protected, the throat by a padded bandage and the eyes by wrought-iron spectacles. Their arms, bandaged too, are raised before their heads, so as to allow only the points of the swords to take effect. Tlius, as a rule, these duels Avithout provocation do not prove fatal. They are scenes of butchery, nevertheless. The young fellows appointed by the superiors of their respective societies as enemies stand bleed- ing opposite to each other for fifteen minutes, not allowed to drop their arms for any such a trifle as the slashing of an ear, the nose, lip, or cheek. Whenever a hit is made the seconds stop the fight just long enough for the umpire to record the point and for the physician to examine the wound, meanwhile holding up the arms of the combatants, but not interfering with the blood running down their half-naked bodies. The young fellows, priding themselves ui3on the scars resulting from this agreeable entertain- ment, take special care to keej) them red, drink- ing an abundance of their favorite beverage dur- ing the process of healing. Sometimes a fellow gets the knack of inflicting mortal, or at least very dangerous, Avounds on the skull of his adversary, even though only no European Glimpses and Glaitces. the point of the sword is available for this pur- pose. Our informant tells us of one such stu- dent, who, proud of his exceptional skill, chal- lenged a whole society to cross swords with him, one after the other, and succeeded in break- ing up the health of two or three of these sjDlen- did young fellows until the police interfered with his bloody work — always managing to appear on the battle-field whenever one of his contests was impending, though they are less zealous in interfering with the ordinary deeds of the stu- dents. Nevertheless, these latter have always to be on the watcli, ever shifting the scene and keeping secret the hour, besides putting out sen- tinels sufficiently distant to give timely warning, providing a ready hiding-place for the weapons in case of a surprise, so that the police, when- ever they appear, would find them sitting around a table drinking beer. In former times the members of these socie- ties occupied themselves to some extent with politics and intellectual pursuits, but now they have degenerated into sheer drinking and fight- ing oi"ganizations. Notwithstanding, they enjoy the patronage of the highest officials in Ger- many, who, in their youth having been mem- bers, look back on those times of unrestrained Etcropean Glimpses and Glances. 1 1 1 liberty as paradise on earth, and do not disdain to appear on special occasions and sit as so- called " alte lierren " side by side with the younger generations. So it is often ambition Avliich induces the young men to enter these societies. The warlike si)irit which is kept up Heidelberg University. by this habit of duelling makes these young fellows extremely thin-skinned and daring, so that more serious duels often result from tlieir aggressive moods — a fact of Avhich many a tomb- stone in the Heidelberg cemetery bears testi- mony. 1 1 2 Etn'opean Glimpses and Glances. The same young man who had challenged the whole society had taken on such an irritating bearing tliat he had before long, whether he desired it or not, at all times some duel pend- ing. One day he was walking on the promenade in a gray suit, and another young student who followed him was overcome by such irrej^ressi- ble hatred towards him that he exclaimed, for the purx)ose of provocation, " Gray is the color of the donkey." The other turned around and asked for an explanation, which was refused. Some days afterwards several carriages drove out to one of the most remote ruins in the neighborhood of Heidelberg. The champion in gray, in a generous mood, fired his first bullet into the air, but the hatred of his opi:)onent could not be quenched, so with his second bullet the champion killed the other who had missed him with his first. When a regiment of the army comes into a town like Heidelberg a series of duels usually ensues, and lives are lost on no more serious provocation than brushing siiglitly against each other at tlie entrance of a store. It is appar- ent that such indulgence in aggressiveness is quite incompatible with a spirit of tolerance, and is quite a strange peculiarity in the other- European Glimpses and Glances. 1 1 3 wise liberal German character. But this pecu- liarity has been largely developed of late by the great wars, as well as by the example of the great statesman, Bismarck, himself, who, in his time, was a member of such a society. Through his whole life he has always been ready to challenge a political opponent. In his un- restrained, irritable temper often crops out the mood of the student who will not allow any one to look straight into his face, and measures like clearing the pavement with big dogs are not at all foreign to his character. CHAPTER IX. Interesting Extracts from a Friend's Ijetter— He visits Nurem- berg—A funny Incident of Travel — At Carlsbad — Its many Springs — How the Invalids drink the Waters— Many Jews there — How they look — American Girls much sought after — A constant Feeing necessary — What a Bottle of American Tangle-Foot did, etc., etc. JJ^UST as we are reminded by tlie German Jj students of our borderland boys, we are receiving letters from a friend, a Western busi- ness man, who until recently was a member of our travelling party, and to give our readers a little change from the matter-of-fact record of our own experiences we present some stray bits from his letters, letting him tell in his own language some of the imiDressions made upon him by this foreign country. When our jovial companion left us and started entirely alone, without any knowledge of the German, for the Carlsbad Springs, where the old doctor had sent him, one member of our party, who understood the Teutonic tongue, gave him a small list of the most necessary German words, ini- tiating him into the mystical pronunciation of them. He tried to imitate the latter, but was 114 Eu7'0pean Glimpses and Glances. 115 quite at sea, groping for those strange sounds which seemed to get out of his reach so rai)idly after he had heard them. lie writes from Nu- remberg : ^' The driver of the droschke whom I engaged to show me round the city faithfully explained everything. I tried to make him comprehend that I did not ' foosstan.' He thought he liad not been exi3licit enough, and so went over all the details again, more minutely than before. ''I enjoyed the town immensely, and must say that in point of magnificent old architecture Nuremberg leads them all. I returned to the hotel and drank beer for half an hour, and went to the station with a pain under my vest, well knowing that the proprietor of the hnsh-foundry had swindled me out of thirty-five pfennigs, at least. " I jumped into the car at the depot and took a seat, when a big Dutchman yelled at me to come out. I did so, and the guard asked me in German for my billet. This last, thaid^s to my tutor, I remembered, but I could not find it. I looked and looked, but no ticket. I thought of my inside vest jDOcket-book, and there it was tucked away safely inside of my letter of credit. 1 1 6 European Glimpses and Glances. ^'I had barely time to board tlie train again when the bell rang, the guard slammed the door, and we were soon raj)idly leaving the city be- hind. Besides myself there were two other gentlemen in the coach. One of them (evident- ly a German) at once opened conversation with the other, whom I had ventured to hope was an American or an Englishman ; but, as lie as- sented to his companion's replies, I settled my- self comfortably in my corner, and w^ondered how any human being could understand such a confused medley of sounds. As I had pre- viously read my only American paper, and hav- ing nothing whatever to do, I quietly listened to the German vocal sounds (taking no excep- tion whatever), and soon noticed that one of the gentlemen, the speaker, rather monopolized the conversation, his companion always assent- ing to all he said, and responding 'Yah' in a wonderful variety of modulated tones, and I could not but recognize the art of being a good listener. The first speaker at last, disgusted by the monosyllabic answers of his companion, turned to him and said quite plainly, 'Do you speak English % ' whereupon the other respond- ed : ' Yes, by thunder, that is the only language I do speak.' Of course we all enjoyed the sit- European Glimpses and Glajices. 1 1 7 nation, and tlie remainder of the jonrney was passed in pleasant conversation, interrupted with English and German jokes. ^'I more and more realize how embarrassing it is to be in a strange country with the thousand- and-one needs of the traveller, and yet quite un- able to speak a single word that will bring an answering look of intelligence into the face of the person addressed. I could not help think- ing how often, in our own country, we meet such unfortunate people, and yet pass them without a thought, or, if we give them one, it is as to their foreign stupidity in not being able to sj^eak the king's English. " An American wiio has never visited Europe can form little idea from books of the watering- places in this country. I arrived at Carlsbad in the evening, and as we rattled along over the stones, with our baggage safely on the io^ of the hotel 'bus, there came a man with a wagon laden with boxes and vegetables and such a diminutive donkey in front that it seemed a shame for that great, fat fellow to ride on the top of the big load and make the dear little donkey do all the work. I thought the least he could do would be to help the poor creature up the hill at which he was now tugging. This he finally did, with a very ill 1 1 8 Eziropeaji Glimpses aiid Glances. grace, after the little brute had exerted his full strength under blows and curses and yet failed to accomplish the task. The human brute re- sumed his place on the load at the top of the hill with an air of conq^lete satisfaction. "When I reached the Hotel de Eusse I was assigned rooms on the highest floor. I found later that the price was much the same as for better ones lower down ; and as for the fees, I thought I should never get through paying them. I soon had to repair to my bankers, whom, owing to my letter of credit, I prevailed upon to give me some of the needful. The fol- lowing morning I arose at 6.30, and opening my window heard the grand band inlaying at the springs. I descended, and soon met men and women going to and returning from the sjDrings. Each had a cu^d suspended from his neck by a strap, on the end of which was a small steel snap, by means of which the cup could easily be detached. " I at once hied me to a stand where an old w^oman kept a full stock of cups, straps, tubes, etc., and purchased a 'lay-out,' and found when I got away that I had been swindled out of ten kreutzers. I went back — this was foolish — and tried to convince the old ladv of the error of her Eiiropea7i Glhnpses and Glances. 1 1 9 ways, to no other purpose than to find that she had quite forgotten even tlie little English she had used in making the sale to me. I went off thinking how unscrupulous foreigners are. I now felt rather ashamed to go walking around in dayliglit with the blue-streaked cup hanging to my neck. Like the boy with the new silk hat, I thought every one was looking at me. I turned aside to hide my blushes, and finally straggled into the long line which was marching slowly to the music in the direction of the springs. ^' Here we found six little girls methodically dii3ping up the water, handing up the cups from one to another, and placing them on a shelf so that the man with the mad liver and the woman with inflamed kidneys could reach it. You just take your cup of water and move on through the grand colonnade, and slowly place yourself out- side of the water, and, according to your doctor's directions, you take the next glass and fall into line accordingly. The water is mildly unplea- sant, especially after the fifth glass, and it takes excellent music to make you forget the taste. I did not see any of the musicians indulge in the water, and I am sure that with a stomach full of it before breakfast the average artist would be 1 20 E^iropean Glimpses and Glances, likely to produce discord. An hour usually elapses between the last glass and breakfast, which is generally taken in one of the restau- rants in the suburbs or in the neighboring moun- tains, since long walks are a necessary j)art of the cure. "There are a number of excellent bands in Carlsbad, and the i)eople follow them around from one place to another, always ascertaining in the morning where the music is to be at night, and then they engage seats in advance and go at any hour that suits, always finding their seats awaiting them. I enjoyed these musical suppeis very much, and what with cheerful conversation and pleasant companions I never remember to have had better times. "There are a number of springs in the build- ing and many others throughout the city, but analysis shows the chemical properties to be about the same. The main difference lies in the temx)erature, which varies from lukewarm to boiling hot. One of the latter spouts up ten feet high. Tea or coffee can be made with the water directly from the spring. To watch the many specimens and conditions of humanity is an interesting pastime, as you see peoi:)le from all quarters of the globe. Here passes a port- Etiropean Glimpses and Glances, 1 2 1 ly Englishman, whose rubicund face and well- rounded form stand in strong contrast with the emaciated Italian, or the young Polish Jew who has a fearful case of jaundice, and whose clothes i^lainly sliow long use, and that they should have been replaced by new ones is only too i)lain. Then, further on, w^e notice a young German w^oman whose face betokens great suffering. She is leaning upon the arm of an old man, x)erhaps her father, and from the appearance of the couple one is compelled to be- lieve that they have had to make some sacrifice in order to get to Carlsbad to drink its healing Avaters, and tliey, no doubt, felt that it was her last chance. "There comes a middle-aged man with a young woman, richly attired, and with a x)rofu- sion of jewelry about their x)ersons. The whole bearing of this class here is so supercilious and disgusting that I went home and took off what jew^elry I had on, and now I intend to omit the glitter. There are misery and happiness, refine- ment and vulgarity, poverty and w^ealth, all mix- ed together in the diversified throngs daily seen upon the thoroughfares. Jew\s from the East (livers out of order), the most curious and anti- quated specimens of humanity. They are gene- 122 Etu^opean Glimpses and Glances. rally tall and spare, with black eyes and hair, and a sharp look, as though they were good judges of ready-made clothing and diamonds. They wear a small ringlet or curl hanging down in front of each ear, and the hair behind is clip- ped quite close. They do not sliave, but, like Abraham, they allow their beards to grow the full length. Altogether they x^resent a some- what uncanny apjDearance, as they are constitu- tionally oj^posed to w^ater, and the reader can readily understand the advisability of keeping a safe distance from his Eastern brother. "I was out with a friend, the other evening, who had been looking uiDon the wine when it was red, and Avas in the humor to paint the city of the same color. As we walked through the park w^e noticed two of the fancy-looking gen- tlemen wnth the long black coats and the two little curls sitting near by the path. A sudden notion seized my friend to go and throw one of them down, and cut off a curl with his scissors, and cany it away as a trophy. I, of course, re- strained him, and we found out afterwards that all these fellow^s carry long knives, in the use of which they are very skilful. No doubt v/e might have become involved in a serious difficulty had I been of the same inclination as my friend. European Glimpses and Glances. 123 *'Here we see the nianimas out in full force, with dear Clara or Julia, and they smile and are so charming that the ordinary public does not know how desperate the dear girls are getting, or how often they hear from their dear mammas on the subject of marriage and its usefulness. I know there is some of the same trouble for American girls at home, but my imi)ression is that the cliances are fearfully whittled do^vn liere. It would seem to be the part of wisdom for any American girls in this country who enter- tain these vieAvs about marriage, and have so far had no opportunity of embodying them, to save money enough out of a season's frivolities to purchase a ticket to the 'land of the free and the home of the brave,' unless, of course, the lady gives up all idea of matrimony, and the scarcity of such cases makes it not worth men- tioning. Nevertheless, I am proud to say that the American girl is at a big i^remium in the European market, that they are much sought by the men, and correspondingly envied by their foreign sisters. "The w^ay the restaurants are run here is something quite peculiar, and especially in the matter of fees to the w^aiters. It is marvellous how many w\aiters there are here, and how they 124 Europea7i Glimpses and Glances. try, with their shrewd and cunning ways, to get fees. TJieir promptness to serve you increases as the meal is nearly over. Wherever you look one of them seems to spring up, and you find his hand immediately under your nose. The head- waiter, the wine-waiter, the coffee- waiter, and the waiter who serves the food, all expect a fee at every meal. A free American citizen cannot turn round without one of these crouching var- mints after him, and if you don't fee him he gives you to understand he knows it, and if you do he takes it as a matter of course. I some- times forget my book of phrases at breakfast or tea, and I have trouble every time, as the Avaiters cannot understand my English ; and although the head pusher can speak some English, he is generally busy making up some unfortunate's ' lechnung.' I tried ten fellows one day and had to fall back on my only known phrase: 'Zwei eier mit brod und thea,' and, strange to say, I got them all right. I can now rattle this off as though I had plenty more behind it but did not care to waste it on waiters. I eat in stately silence and pay no attention to the conversation all around me. '-' My doctor seems to take a lively interest in me, and I think is rather ashamed of himself European Glimpses and Glances. 12 that he cannot converse in English. The other day when I went to see him lie produced a piece of i)ai)er npon whicli he had written a number of Englisli sentences, and when I asked him a question he would hastily refer to the paper and try to pick out a suitable reply. I said : 'Doc- tor, you have a pleasant office.' He assured me my 'kidneys were all right.' I told him I was glad of it, and he said : 'Oh ! no, it is quite a mistake ; you go on 11 s usual and take three glasses of the Avater daily.' I nsked him when I should call again, and he said I could take a glass of red wine with my supper, and he finally wound up the conversation by saying that he 'could not sprechen pretty good English.' On this last we cordially shook hands, and I shook the doctor. I don't intend to call on him more than three times a day from this on. "I am beginning to feel some of the old-time vigor. When I arrived I felt as though if any one had kicked me I should liave apologized. After having been here ten days I felt as though I should have firmly stood my ground. I now feel as thongh I should give him kick for kick ; and that at the end of thirty days I should wipe up the ground with him, and the bystanders would have to interfere. 126 Eiiropean Glimpses and Glaiices. "1 had among my effects on arriving here a bottle of American tanglefoot. I think it was originally imported from IS'ew Jersey in June, 1888. It was too old for me as it was. I never took but one dose of this excellent whiskey. I am very thankful I am alive to write these lines. Under the 'inliuence' of that one drink I did things which plainly showed that I was acting under excitement. I gave away all my spare kreutzers, and yet the x>orter was kindly atten- tive. I ran my hand into my pocket where the kreutzers had been, but no kreutzers were left. I was desperate, but not half so desperate as the porter was, later. In an unguarded moment I gave that poor porter the b(;ttle of pure Jersey lightning, and he rapidly but gracefully Avith- drew, and so did I, rolling away from the house to the station. No doubt that dose was more than even the German stomach could stand, and the friends and acquaintances of the family will attend." CHAPTER X. At Lucerne and it^> Beautiful Lake — Thorwaldsen's Lioii — Dis- coveries of Remains of the Glacial Period — A Day on the Lak« — The Saint Gothard Railway — Climbing the Alps — Lugano to Bellaggio — About Lake Coino — A Visit to the Carlotta Villa — Its elegant Statuary — On to Milan. ^T ^EAYINGr Baden-Baden, we commence our < ^ ^ journey tlirough Switzerland to Italy, re- gretting that the season is too far advanced to spend much time in comfort amidst the incom- parable scenery through which we pass. As Lake Lucerne lies in onr route, we spend a day at the city of Lucerne. The first object of interest for all travellers here is the Lion by Thorwald- sen, a work of such marvellous beauty that the beholder is held to the spot Avith a strange fasci- nation. It is indeed "" the Lion of Lucerne." This enormous statue was the spontaneous gift of the Swiss people, who erected it in commemo- ration of one of the most striking events of the French Kevoiution, which occurred on August 10, 1792. On that day a detachment of Swiss gen- erals, who belonged to the Frencli army, and had sworn allegiance to the king, Louis XVI., defended his palace and person, performing 127 128 European Glimpses and Glances. prodigies of valor, but who, tliroiigli treachery and the overwhelming numbers of the mob, in- spired and led on by the Jacobins, were over- powered and slaughtered at their posts, on! 3^ a few escaping in disguise after all hope had been abandoned. Their countrymen felt that they owed a tribute to the memory of these brave men, who sealed with their blood the oath of fidelity the}^ had sworn to the king, and in 1818 a sufficient sum was raised by subscription, to wliich all classes contributed, to erect a monument. By a happy chance they were enabled to secure the services of tlie celebrated sculptor Thorwaldsen, avIio seized the idea with enthusiasm and in a short time submitted a model which was the admira- tion of all who saAv it. This model repre- sented a colossal lion, pierced with a shaft, in the agonies of death. This figure is sculptured upon the surface of the great rock in Lucerne. Nature seems to have produced this rock especially for the im- mortal artist to cut his lion upon. Thorwaldsen showed wonderful skill in making the most out of the opportunity here afforded for the exhibi- tion of his great artistic powers. The rock measures forty-four feet in height by twenty-six European Glimpses and Glances. 129 in width. The lion lies in the middle of it as in a cave, tlie rock being cut out of it above and around the figure. Every line of the colossal beast is full of significance. A shaft is driven unerringly through his most vital part. The whole figure is replete with expression, but the agony of the face, with its knitted brow and The Lion of Lucerne. dilated nostrils, is something beyond descrip- tion, and most fittingly represents the dyina; agonies of the heroes it symbolizes. We feel that only great brute strength can suffer such pain, and our gaze falls in relief upon the huge paw which projects over the edge of the cliff. From wdiatever point one views this wonderful work a deep impression is produced. 130 Eicropean Glimpses and Glances. The SavIss people are full of patriotic devotion and admiration of brave deeds, and this beauti- ful monument api)eals with especial force to these sentiments ; and while it serves to perpetu- ate the memory of their heroic countrj^men, it will at the same time help to preserve from gen- eration to generation that love of liberty and that enthusiasm in its defence for which the Swiss nation is so justl}^ celebrated. Next in point of interest is tlie exhibition of the remains of the period of the glaciers, dis- covered in 1872 and subsequently. From any data discovered by geological researches, no reliable estimate can be formed of the number of centuries the j^eriod covers during which the whole of Switzerland and most of the northern hemisphere were buried under im- mense masses of ice, among which, in course of time, oases began to appear, fitted for the habi- tation of those animals of which remains have been discovered but which were long ago ex- tinct. This little section, showing the remarkable effect of tbe action of the glaciers, was acci- dentally discovered by the removal of a quan- tity of rubbish from the surface, whicli brought to view one of the gigantic pots or European Glimpses aiid Gla^ices, 131 glacier holes, with erosions caused by the ice. The holes were formed by the whirling stones (sometimes immense boulders), by the force of the water melting from the glacier and fornnng a rapid current as it bounded down beneath the frozen masses above. And here we see these boulders, some of which weigh many tons, left in the very spot where tliey did their work, their surfaces, and the surface of the pots in which tliey were whirled, being polished perfectly smooth. The spiral wind- ings worn by them are clearly visible. In some of the pots tlie whole surface of the boulders is scratched by the action of the sharp points of the ice, showing the effect of the ice crystals upon them, Avitli their im- mense weight and terrific grinding force. Lay- ers of rocks filled with fossils of sea-shells in- dicate that the whole country Avas once cover- ed l)y the sea. In another series of rocks we see petrifactions of the palm. On this small spot we have before our eyes a record of different pages of the history of the earth — first embracing the period when the ocean covered the land, then that in which the tropical heat produced tlie forests, and in the glacier mills we have the actual debris left 132 European Glimpses and Glances. b}^ the ice that once covered the entire northern hemisphere. With a knowledge of the laws governing the formation of the crust of the earth disclosed by the science of geolo- gy, and Avith the revelations here made, before our eyes, of the action of tliose laws, there can be no doubt that tliose changes in the aspect of the earth have required millions of 3^eais for their accomplishment. Lucerne, lying at the head of the lovely lake of that name, with the Rigi and Pilatus standing like sentinels almost at its very gates, and with the snow mountains in the distance, and such a series of beautiful scenes on all sides, occupies a situation of surpassing love- liness. It is surrounded by a wall, built more than three liundred years ago, which is still, for the most part, in good condition. With its quaint old watch-towers it forms a conspicu- ous object in the prospect. We make the Hotel Schweitzerhof our home during our visit here, and find it a marked ex- ample of the best class of Swiss hostelries, which have gained such a deserved rei^utation for good management. The Avhole establish- ment is scrupulously clean and orderly, and no detail is neglected, no want overlooked. One EiLvopcaii Glimpses and Glances, 133 feels here, perhaps for the lirst time in his life (during which he has perchance visited hotels in all parts of the world), that there is no room for criticism, tliat no suggestions for im- provement are in order. Foj-, wdiile no thing- human is perfect, or absolutel}^ beyond im- provement, yet one feels in such a house as this, that, to find fault or presume to oifer suggestions for improvement, would be ungra- cious, so complete and satisfactory is every detail of the service. We kuow^ nothing of the landlord, and draw these conclusions from our observations during a brief visit, but we have no doubt that this house is the out- growtli, so to speak, of many years of experi- ence in Swiss hotel-keeping, and that, in this establishment, w^e have the embodiment of the best results that have been thus attained. Probably nowhere in the world has this busi- ness been so completely reduced to system, or so thoroughly organized into a profession, as in Switzerland, and probably in no other country do the landlords average so high in capacity and character as here. The position that many of them hold as citizens is not due solely or mainly to the fact that they have been financially successful in their business, 1 34 European Glimpses and Glances. but rather because they are known to be men of probity and reliability. The Schweitzerhof and other leading hotels oc- cupy the quay at the extreme end of the lake, commanding a beautiful view not only of the lake itself, but of the Swiss mountains far and near. To the left, and not far distant, stands the Rigi, with the group of hotels clustered around its summit, and at the extreme right grand old Pilatus lifts his rugged, many-peak- ed front, while the sweep of the horizon be- tween these extreme points is dotted with nu- merous rising peaks which may be easily de- signated with the aid of a good map. Lucerne furnishes hotel accommodations for a great number of people, and her resources, in this respect, are taxed to the fullest during the summer season. Embarking on one of the little steamers that are constructed with reference to speed and to enable the tourist to enjoy the beautiful and ever-changing panorama, we pass the day with surroundings the memory of Avhicli will long linger with us— a cloudless sky, a smooth lake, balmy air, and scenery unsurpassed. As we approach the foot of the Kigi we catch glimpses of the wonderful little railroad that European GUinpscs and Glances. 135 carries its precious burden of tourists uj) its steep sides high above the clouds. A short sail brings us to Yitznau, where we disembark and entrust ourselves to the little "rack-and -pinion" railroad which lifts us lip, almost perpendicularly in some places, to the rugged summit. The Rigi rises so abruptly from the water's edge that, as we begin the ascent, we very soon find a most charming vista of the lake dawning ujion us, and as we rise higher, and soon gain a point above the clouds, we catch insiDiring views of sombre Burgenstock and majestic Pilatus and their neighboring compeers, and Avlien the summit is reached almost the Avhole of Lake Lucerne lies in plain sight, while several other neighboring lakes are included in the range of vision. Now a grand panorama bursts ujion us, embracing the near and distant Alps rising from almost the entire surface of Switzerland, while Lucerne, with its spires and battle- ments, appears in the rear, a few miles to the westward, yet lying ap')parently at our feet. In common with most visitors to tlie sum- mit of the Rigi, we spend the night here, in order to behold the sunset and sunrise, \ 136 European Glimpses and Glances, and we are fortunate enough, to encounter the conditions that enable us to enjoy them in perfection, both the evening and morning be- ing quite clear and fair. As the sunset hour approaches all the visi- tors ascend to the highest point, which is a few hundred feet from the hotel. It would be difficult to find a more cosmopolitan group than the hundred or more comprising this sunset party. The marked physical char- acteristics, the varied and peculiar costumes, and, above all, the jargon of tongues, give the impression that almost every nation on the globe is represented. . But, however varied their appearance, or in- compatible their tongues, all unite in undis- guised admiration of the scene when the sun disappears behind the distant mountains, '^baj)- tizing" the whole landscape with its expiring glories. The night shades, and the chill which is si)ecially noticeable at this elevation, prompts our return to the hotel, where we find a good dinner awaiting us. We retire early and it seems scarcely an hour before we are awakened by the lusfy blasts of the Alpine horn, giving us half an hour's notice of the reappparing, in the east, European Glimpses and Glances, 137 of the glories that so lately faded from our sight in the west. Soon the whole house is loused, and, after many hasty and some rather startling toilets, all rush again to the summit, and the hotel is left tenantless. St. Gothard Railway Viaduct, The first faint streak, before which the stars begin to pale, changes gradually into a golden glow, and in a few minutes a new day is born. During the j)rocess of this new birth each lofty peak receives in its turn a baptism 138 Etiropcan Glimpses and Glances. of glory, the night shades fade away, and the towns, the mountains, and the lakes gradually disclose themselves. Soon the whole landscape is flooded with light and Avarmth. Several days can be profitably spent in en- joying the Rigi, and but meagre justice can be done it in a single night and morning ; but, our time being limited, we descend the moun- tain and resume our steamboat journey upon Lake Lucerne. Oji, on we go, passing many spots full of historical interest, till we approach Brunnen, Avliich appears to constitute the termination of the lake. But to our surprise a turn to the right discloses anotlier division not less beau- tiful than that already x)assecl. Finally we reach Fluellen, the end of our steamboat jour- ney, where we disembark and take the cars on the famous St. Gothard Railway, Avhicli has compassed the passage of the Aljis by the most wonderful feats of engineering. Previous to the completion of this railroad, Fluellen was the j^oint of departure for travellers crossing the St. Gothard, and it was, in those days, often the theatre of great bustle and ac- tivity, when the note of preparation sounded for departing trains, and the Swiss mountain European Glimpses and Glances. 139 horn announced the approach of those that were coming down from the heights above. As the train climbs np the AI^ds from this point the most magnificent views are obtained of the mountain scenery, of Lake Lucerne and St. Gothard Railway. of the surrounding country. Our train iiassed through the long tunnel — nine and three-quar- ter miles — in twenty minutes. The loop tun- nels, as they are called, constitute a most extra- ordinary piece of engineering. There are three 140 European Glimpses and Glances. of tliem on the Swiss side and four on the Ital- ian, and as each one makes a complete circuit in the mountain, by means of an opening twenty-eight feet wide by twenty-one high, cut tlirough the solid rock, and lined Avith masonry, some idea of the magnitude of the task can be conceived. But this w^as the only Avay that the elevation on the one side and the descent on the other could be accomplished. The St. Gothard Railway is one hundred and twenty-eight miles in length, has fifty-six tun- nels, which aggregate tAventy-five and one-half miles, thirty-two bridges, many of them very large and difficult of construction ; it was built in ten years at an expense of about $50,000,000, and is the most extraordinary achievement of modern times in railroad construction. When we end our journey, which has taken us across the Al^^s, at Lugano, Ave are still in SAvitzerland, though the place possesses all the peculiar characteristics of an Italian city. Situate on the beautiful lake of the same name, and surrounded by high mountains, Avith a moderate temi)erature both in Avinter and summer, it is a charming place either for a brief or an extended visit. By a lovel}^ steamboat ride of an hour and a half on Lake European Glimpses and Glances. Lugano, and one of about the same length on a narrow-gauge railroad connecting it with Lake Como, we reacli Bellaggio. This is the ^' Lugano. best point for the ti'aveller to get the finest views of tlie famous lake, which is the gem of the celebrated group of Italian lakes. 142 European Glimpses and Glances. Imagine our own lovely Lake George, with its surrounding mountains ten times as liigli as they are, with scores of towns occupying its promontories and sightly points, with the other accompaniments seen here, of villas, vine- yards, forests, projecting rocks and impend- ing precipices, and some idea can be formed of what we noAv see. A seat on the summit of a projecting prom- ontory, five hundred feet above the shimmering lake, afi'ords the most charming panorama we ever beheld. The sun is declining, the lights and shades are playing upon the mountain sides, the mountains themselves are duplicated in the glassy surface of the lake, the towns and hamlets are glistening in the sun or retir- ing in the shade, the fete-day bells are ring- ing their merry peals in all the villages, the steamers are shooting back and forth like weavers' shuttles, and the small boats, pro- pelled by sail or oar, are moving lazily about, each in its own course, while the jolly occu- pants wake the echoes with speech or song : this is what leaves upon the beholder's mind an impression of combined sublimity, beautj^ and repose which ever after is an inspiriting memory. Europea7i Glimpses and Glances. 143 As tlie lake lies in a basin, formed by liigli mountains, sometimes when very heavy rains fall, at the time the snow is melting, a sudden rise in the lake occurs. This has happened three times during the present century — in 1829, 1868 and 1888. This year the water sud- denly rose i^w feet, causing great damage. The i^leasant custom prevails here among the proi)rietors of beautiful villas, many of whicli are owned by the nobility, of opening their grounds and often their houses to visitors. We visit one called the Carlotta, the property of a w^ealthy duke, where we see some ex- tremely fine statuary in the entrance hall. Extending around the entire room, and about ten feet from the floor, is represented "The Triumphal March of Alexander," cut in mar- ble in relief, by Thorwaldsen, presenting more than a hundred figures of men, horses, ele- 2)hants, etc. It is a marvellous work and cost the original owner 375,000 francs. There are also in the same room several beautiful statues by Canova. The grounds are exten- sive and tilled with a most extraordinary variety of rare trees, ^^l^iits and flowers, the result of hundreds of years of painstaking. Excursions by steamer, or small sail, or row- 144 European Glimpses and Glances. boat, disclose a succession of new scenes of beauty and grandeur till one is almost lost in encliantment. The first stage of our journey southward is by steamboat on Lake Como, from Bellaggio to Como, and it is w^ell worth a journey from America to enjoy this trip of two hours. We are continually passing promontories jutting out from mountains thousands of feet high, the sides of which are dotted witli villas and smiling Avitli vineyards far from the water's edge. One gorgeous scene follows another in such rapid succession that we are almost glad at length to reach Como, being surfeited with the beauty and grandeur of all we have seen. A short ride by railroad brings us to Milan, the centre of Lombardy and the most import- ant city in northern Italy. CHAPTER XL At Milan — Its many Attractions — In the immense Central Bazar — The peculiarities of the Milanese — A glance at the history of the City — Its great Cathedral — The Last Sup- per — Da Vinci's marvellous Painting— How to view old Paintings— A Yankee's opinion of the Old Masters — A few reflections. ^^T>w ILAN has, at the present day, a less pe- r* I ^ ciiliar Italian character than any of the other leading cities of the peninsula, and it more resembles the gay capitals of Europe. It has large, clean streets, attractive stores, elec- tric lights everywhere, especially in the great Central Bazar, an enormous structure a hun- dred feet high, in the form of a Latin cross, cov- ei'ing several streets for a considerable distance, with a cupola in the centre one hundred and eighty feet high. The gifted architect who con- structed it lost his life by falling from a lofty scaffold, in 1877. Here the average Milanese spends his spare time in lounging, either walking about or sitting before one of the numerous cafes, while the richer and more aristocratic merchants keeji themselves aloof, living in great cool stone palaces near the city's centre, 145 146 Eu7^opean Glimpses and Glances. but at the same time retired from the bustle of the thoroughfares, hearing nothing but the occasional light rolling of an elegant carriage with its well-trained horses. Milan — Street Scene. The intellectual aristocrat, too, studiously avoids the bustle of the crowded mart, finding repose in conversing Avitli the great minds of the past, haunting the libraries, art galleries, European Glimpses and Glances. 147 and old cliurclies, where the thoughts and ex- periences of thousands of years speak to liim a more suggestive hmguage than the little in- terests of the da3\ To an American it is sur- prising how the past liokls its ground, and how much space in the very centre of tlie city, which would be valuable for business inirposes, is yet kept for all these historical monuments having only an intellectual and moral value. Europeans get much more from the past than the Americans, and because so much of whal^ they have is inherited. While the upstarling present dominates in America, it is held more subservient to the past and to tlie future in Euroi)e, where the individual does not stand so much for himself but floats like a leaf on the stream of tradition — more cultured l)ut less independent than the American. It is interesting, in travelling in Euroj^e, to consider the history of a city like Milan and its inhabitants, tracing the same traits of char- acter all through, which have been evolved by the conditions of the locality, combined wath the race peculiarities of the people. Often, perhaps for centuries, you would not recognize the character- strain, all the vital strength hav- ing apparently been spent, and you are subse- 148 Eitropean Glimpses and Glances. quently suriDrised to see the latent strain revived at a later x)e™d. This lias been the case with the Milanese, avIio begin to show now, again, at least in their commercial activity, some of the hardiness of their forefathers. In the middle ages Milan was one of the strongholds of independent si)irit. In the fourth century their great bishop, Ambrosius, whose career and memory have done much to build up the moral character of the citizens, was one of the first to uphold the entire independ- ence of the church from the state, claiming that religious authority was the highest. He suc- ceeded in forcing the Emperor Theodosius to make x>ublic amends in the old atrium in front of his church — St. Ambrosius — for ruth- lessly destroying a town, shutting the gates of the sanctuary against him until he had com- plied with these demands. Milan was fort}^- eight times besieged, twenty-eight times con- quered, and several times burnt dow^n, yet this old church survived, being now fourteen hun- dred years old. But the most glorious page of the city's his- tory, in its everlasting fight for municipal in- dependence, and the spiritual power of the church against the efforts of the different em- Eicropean Glimpses and G la j ices. 149 perors for concentrating all tlie privileges in tlieir hands, was recorded in the twelfth cen- tury, when the town, conquered after a long war by the mighty Barbarossa, burnt down and Milan — City Gate. rebuilt b}^ the expelled citizens and their allies, won the victory at last. Whenever the Mi- lanese went forth to battle they had in their midst the celebrated Carroccio, a car drawn by oxen on which tlieir Hag was unfurled ; a bell 150 European Glimpses and Glaiices, was rung and praj^ers were said before an altar and crucifix. Tliis car was intended to steady, by its slow movement, their advance as well as their retreat. This same city, unconquerable in the twelfth century, degenerated in the fourteenth and fif- teenth, op23ressed by unworthy tyrants, like Filippo Maria Yisconti. This ruler shut himself up in the outside castle for several years, never l^utting his foot within the walls, never admit- ting anybody into his presence without having him examined i^reviously by one hundred guardians, and always artfully keeping up dis- trust and quarrels among the officials of his army administration, and among his servants, in order that one might serve as a spy against the other, and so himself be safe through their mutual fear and jealous3\ Later on Milan was ruled by the German em- peror, by Spain, by France, by Austria, and at last, in 1859, became part of the new kingdom of Ital}^ It is now fiourisliing again, having once more, as in the twelfth centur}^, 300,000 inhabitants. The great cathedial, the most splendid Gothic building in Italy, and, next to St. Peter's at European Glimpses and Glances. 1 5 i Rome, and tlie cathedral at Seville, tlie largest cliiircli in Enroi^e, was begun under the auspices of the first tyrant and finished under those of their last, Napoleon I., all of whom wanted, like the pyrandd-builders of old Egypt, to connect their names with colossal structuies. It is — like the history of Milan — a monument of the struggle between the German conquerors and the Italian national resistance, this time on in- tellectual ground, Avith the w^eapons of art. Workmen of these two nations always alter- nated during the long x^eriods of its erection, the fundamental idea of the structure taken from the cathedral at Cologne, and the Italian resistance the character of the Gothic style al- ways struggling for a compromise. In conse- quence, it is not so lofty and aspiring as that pure expression of German thought, the Cologne Cathedral, the bulk of the building being square and massive and earthly, and the Gothic ornaments dwindled down into bric-a-brac. The leading tower is trifling compared wdth the great base. The Italian climate as well as the Italian mind would not allow the spiritualiza- tion of the whole structure, since the many win- dow's of the slender towers and pillars, wdiich, as in the Cologne Cathedral, through the dim 152 Ettropean Glimpses and Glances, nortliern light rapidly and lovingly ascend to- ward the sky, would not do in the glaring Italian sun. Besides this materialization of the Gothic style which shows itself in the square form of the main building, and the dwarfed form of the aspiring ornaments, the expression of the exterior is spoiled by the fagade comi:>leted by Na2~)oleon in a style altogether out of keeping with the rest. The French emperor liked to adoi^t the style of the old Roman emperors, and, like all imitators, used it often in the wrong place. It is as if he had roughly signed his name on the fagade of the great cathedral. But the modern Italians, in their rising simit of indei3endence, after generations of submis- siveness, are about to erase his name. For some five years past an international competi- tion has been instituted for designs for a new fagade, which will be more in harmony Avitli the whole, and more modest than that of the French intruder. The cathedral is a mountain of beautiful transparent marble, an artistically designed ice- berg, so to say, in the middle of tliis hot city. When, out of the glaring light reflected from the white marble, and from the granite pave- European Glimpses and Glances. 153 ment of the great square before the church, we pass into the interior, it seems at first dark, until it dawns upon us, and by the working of art seems even vaster than tlie vault of heaven, since it is an ideal vastness, conceived by human thought and ennobled by beautiful propor- l»^'^' ^' ' ,|^*i'L4- "/- 0?^ ^ The Milan Cathedral. tions — much more an ideal vastness than that of St. Peter's, which is larger in size but less harmonious. The interior of the Milan Cathe- dral is really a wonderful combination of the lofty height of a Gothic church and the classi- cal strength of a Greek temple. After viewing the great cathedral, the joride 154 Europe an Glivipscs and Glances. of Milan, we turn to another work no less dear to the Milanese or less eagerly sought by visitors, the great painting of The Last Supper by Leo- nardo da Vinci. One scarcely realizes its great merits at iirst sight. At the end of a long, cold, gloomy hall, the dining-room of the monks in former ages, we find on the wall an indistinct group of figures in faded colors, sit- ting around a table. In many spots the plas- ter on which, in a wet state four hundred years ago, the picture was painted, has peeled off. No wonder that it is now in a dilapidated condi- tion, as, during the four centuries that have elapsed since the work was done, it has had to undergo many vicissitudes. Already the monks themselves, in a time of irreverence against the great masters, had cut a door through the wall upon which it was painted, thus taking away the feet of the central figure. By the French under Napoleon the place was used as a sta- ble, and later on by others as a prison, and as a storehouse for hay. Besides, inferior ar- tists have ventured several times, in different periods, to give the apostles new clothing, so to say, by repainting. But, notwithstanding all this ill usage— of weather, war, and irrever- ence—and althougli the ground-work is nearly Etn^opcan Glimpses and Glances, 155 crumbled to dust, the picture bears the marks ot genius to a degree which no copy by any living artist could or can reproduce. The admission fee of one franc brings in each year thousands of dollars. It takes us some time and considerable trou- ble rightly to perceive the figures and their relation to each otlier ; but we succeed at last with the help of the many copies, finished and unfinished, standing in the room, since there are painters, some of whom are very old men, who, through their whole lives, have never done anything else but copy again and again this very same picture, which thus gives them their living, although, at first sight, it seems nothing but a mass of color and dust. To the persistent student the dust becomes alive, and at last much more alive than any of those shin- ing copies. This shows how indestructible ge- nius is, and with how little external means it can be conveyed through many centuries. We see in Leonardo's picture the mild face of the Saviour, full of benignity and great- ness of soul as no other painter has ever con- ceived it. He is represented at the moment when he has uttered the words, "One of you shall betray me." All the twelve apostles sur- 156 Europe a 11 Glimpses and Glances. rounding liim — in admirable gToux)s of three — are represented under the imjDression these words produce upon them, revealing at this moment the peculiar character of each by the expression of their faces, their whole position, and especially by the gestures of their hands, which are varied to a degree that none but an Italian could accomplish. All these different means of expression are in perfect harmonj^, and Ave are amazed to be able to read from this faded painting the whole life and character of each of the apostles. Often pictures originally i)^inted on the wall, like this one, but in a better preserved condi- tion, are cut out with the wall itself and hung up in the galleries. In the process of time there has been stored up a vast number of old pictures in these gal- leries, so many of them of high interest, and so many others of mere historical value which can only be appreciated with the helji of stud3^, that it is quite necessary to acquiie practice in viewing tliem. At first you feel lost and dis- appointed, and if you persist, while in this unfavorable condition, you are apt to overdo this sight-seeing business, and it is strange how utterly exLausted one may become by it, both European Glimpses and Glanees. 157 ill body and mind. In sucli a moment of x^ros- tration we were exhilarated by finding our- selves face to face with, and hearing the com- ments of, a characteristic American, upon the X)ictures in this JMilan gallery, who altogether refused to give up his Yankee ideas in looking at the old masters. On viewing a i)icture by Raphael, and a copy by the side of it nearly completed, he much preferred the latter. "The color is fresher, the sky is bluer, and the figures brighter." When told that a million dollars would not buy the original, he w^ent right back to it to take another look, saying: "Why in thunder don't they put the price on the x>ictures, so that a fellow can know something about them \ " "What I admire more than anything else in these galleries," he continued, ''are the old frames. Look at the amount of gold these fel- lows put on them ! Wonder if it is real gold, or imitation? Guess it is solid; it stands the weather pretty well. Seems to be genuine gold- leaf. How much discount do you think tliey would make for cash % Would tliey throw in an extra one if a fellow bought a dozen % ' ' Standing before the rather muscular cori:>se of a saint painted by Tintoretto, he wondered 158 Etc7^opca7i Glimpses and Gla7ices. "how many rounds that fellow fought before he got knocked out?" The scanty clothing of these old martyrs and saints shocked his Ameri- can sense of decency, since he always imagined every figure he saw as moving about in every- day life. "I guess they did not have ready- made clothing stores in those days, or these old fellows were hard up. What clothes they do have look as though they were shot onto them, and as though they did not aim very straight, either. That old gent there grabbed his bed- clothes in a hurry. He would make quite a respectable appearance in an English cutaway coat and a fresh pair of pants. The artist should have given him a chance to dress. It is not fair to sneak about and copy these fel- lows in their night-shirts, and all torn at that. He is evidently begging the central figure to bring him his clothes." A martyr being killed by a knife cleaving the top of his head, our Yankee takes for a juggler balancing a knife on his head. "Per- haps, in an unguarded moment, he stole that cheese- knife from one of the citizens, and those two old roosters each side of him got on to his racket and grabbed him with those two hooks there, just as he was trying to escape to Cana- European Glimpses and Glances. 159 da. So, in order to cover up his crime, he mounted a block and pretended he only bor- rowed that knife to amuse the populace." In fact, there are many incongruous things in the old masters, even when viewed as tliey are, and not in the spirit of our Yankee. It is especially pleasant to follow the working of the minds of the earlier painters, and see by what plain, and sometimes childlike, means they ac- complished their tasks in that religious and simple-hearted period. An artist wlio had never been in Egypt receives an order to paint "St. Mark Preaching in the Market Place at Alexandria." He has his own method of con- triving to give his picture an Oriental cast. He puts St. Mark's Church in Venice (since it looks rather Oriental) right into tlie market place at Alexandria, erects Cleopatra's needle by the side of it and gives the neighboring houses a shut up kind of an eastern look, with rugs hanging out of the windows. Some patri- archal Venetian home costumes are ornamented with Turkish turbans ; women with white veils drawn over their faces kneel on the pavement ; camels and giraffes stalk about as proud repre sentatives of that region; and St. Mark stands on the steps preaching to this stylish audience. i6o Eiiropcan Glimpses and Glances, The incongruous grouping is done in such an ingenious way that the effect is quite comfort- able and i^leasing, if we only find a way of entering into tlie spirit of the old master. It is healthful to our minds to learn to get rid, from time to time, of our own particular ideas, and especially liealthful to purify ourselves by the childlike spirit of a less sophisticated pe- riod than the present. CHAPTER XII. The dead-alive Cities of Sienna and Pisa — Relics of the for- mer greatness of Pisa— In its Cemetery — To the great Cathedral — The Leaning Tower — Italian want of Thrift — Florence and its People — All for Show— Living on lit- tle — Xo sturdy Character in all Italy. i^ i) I '^ l^^i'ii of the greatest masters of the ^^^^^ old unsophisticated i)eriod in Flor- ence and the neighboring towns. In fact, these latter are the fossils of that time, especially Sienna and Pisa. Thanks to the pure, mild air of the climate and the hard stone of which these towns are built, they stand out as clean and perfect, and apparently as brand new, as if hnished but yesterday, and yet are monuments of the past. Five centuries ago they were inhabited by their hundreds of thousands of permanent dwellers, and yet, to- day — sncli are the mutations of time and cir- cumstance — only a few thousand people are to be found in their emjDty streets. In their prime they were rivals of Florence, and Pisa was even a rival of Genoa and Venice in the struggle for the retention of the trade and control of the Mediterranean. But they were 16] 1 62 Eu7^opean Glimpses and Glances. Pisa — The Baptistery. Eiiropcan Glimpses and Glances. 163 beaten, and died a sudden, violent death from the fact that the commercial arteries through which their wealth flowed to them were band- aged by their enemies until the stricture was complete. They are dead ; but they are clean, nice corpses, much cleaner than the live bod- ies of the modern Italian cities. They are preserved just as well, and as untouched, though never covered with lava, as Hercula- neuni and Pompeii, simply because they weie outside of the course of trade, war and rivalry, and left to the gentle influences of the mild Italian climate, the blue sky and the bright sun, showing that nature takes better care of things in Italy than do its i^eople. All the memorable buildings of Pisa are of white or yellowish marble, and stand together on a little elevation with an intermediate space of fresh green lawn. At flrst we enter the cemetery, though the Avhole town, for that matter, seems to be a cemetery. The graves are in a square marble hallway. We walk over them and look out through columns into an oi:)en space in the centre, where old cy- presses make their slow, grave movements now, as they did when the bodies of that hardy, seafaring race, which is now entirely extinct, 164 European Glimpses and Glances. were laid under the ground. The walls of this hall are covered with frescos. Many of them, though through all these centuries exposed to the air, are quite fresh, expressing, in some- what hard and uncouth forms, the stern and rugged creeds of those who lie buried beneath. One fresco represents the tombs on the judg- ment day, and the angels who are sending the resurrecting bodies to heaven or to hell, accord- ing to their deserts, have snch terrible author- ity in their gestures that you wonld ratlier doubt your own existence than their power. TJjese frescos are not beautiful, in any sense, being the struggling efforts of the earlier stages of art, but Ave feel before them the same hor- ror which comes over us wlien we read tlie poems of Dante. The faith in the hearts of men of that period seems to have been more adamantine even than the buildings they erected. In one of the jDictures we see a cavalcade of kings, on horseback, stopped before the open graves of three men. Their faces and gestures show the deej) impression made upon them in such a naive, odd, and yet serious way that nobody would ever think of laughing at them. They are characterized by realism rather than European Glirnpscs and Glaiiccs. 165 beauty, and make us think of the churchy aid scenes in Shakspere. Coming out of this place of the dead we are reminded of the present population of Pisa only by the importunate guides and beggars who cling to us like the memories of our sins, following us to the very door of the cathedral. Cathedra! and Leaning Tower of Pisa, Here on eacli side of us are the Roman and Greek columns, won by the Pisans in their wars with the Turks, and looking up we see the old swinging lamj) Avhich is said to have given Galileo the idea of the pendulum. It hangs from the ceiling by a very large iron rope, and never ceases its almost imperceptible sway- 1 66 European Glimpses and Glances, ing, making us realize tlie power of the liid- den laws of nature of wliicli the human mind caught glimpses, here and there, in the course of the marching centuries. The Leaning Tower gives us the same un- canny sense of incertitude. On entering at the basement we discover the marble floor to be percei:)tibly slanting, producing a x^eculiar, insecure kind of feeling as Ave walk over it. Ascending, we And the floor of every story exactly the same in this respect, every one of the numerous pillars and other upright sup- ports being out of plumb, which materially adds to the uneasiness that we cannot control. The whole structure seems to discredit all the laws of gravity, and shows us how easily our mind is uj^set by the slightest change in the ordinary aspect of things. Of course it lias a poise and centre of gravity which obe}^ archi- tectural and physical laws, but, at the first sight, it appears to outrage and defy them. As we climb, and, after each flight of stairs, walk around another of the outside galleries which, in deference to the beauty of the tower, have no railings, we experience a peculiar sensation. We don't know if the storied pillar is lean- ing or we are leaning. At one moment we Eicropean Glimpses and Gla?ices. 167 are afraid of tumbling over the gallery edge, the next of slipping down the slanting floor. Then again we think it not slanting at all, and conclude, at the end, that it is a puzzle, altogether. We come down and out of this architec- tural paradox quite topsy-turvy, when, all at once, from the seemingly calm little streets and corners, pour forth cabs, which surround and follow us, more than ready to serve, and, at each turning of our head, or movement of a finger, the cabmen whip up their horses anew to take their chance in case we may have al- tered our mind and be desirous of a drive. It is strange how obsequious, and, at the same time, how lazy these Italians are. They enjoy, the whole day long, the comfort of their rags, lying in the sun motionless like snakes ; but suddenly start up at the sight of a for- eigner, with no higher ambition than, in some way, dignified or not, to get a few cents out of him. They don't want riches, but, on the con- trary, are altogether careless and easy going, and show little of the "pith and moment" of their ancestors. Florence itself is something between the old and the new, not quite a fossil and yet not l68 European Glimpses a7id Glances, quite alive. We revive here all strong impres- sions accruing from tlie past, and are imbued with some pleasant ones from the present. It was for years the residence of the new Italian king and court before their migration or trans- Banks of the Arno. ference, in 1870, to Rome. In those years of kingly presence the city underwent great changes. All along the river was built a fine promenade, and a splendid road over some of the surrounding hills. But, in sx)ite of these, Etu'opca}i GliiJipscs ajid Glances, 169 and many other admirable improvements, to a thorough-g'oing American there is still more than enough that seems out of repair; and yet, wlien lie has seen a good sunset, or a day suf- fused witli real Florentine ligbt, everything seems to him perfect. Sometimes for weeks, in fall or sj^ring, the sky is cloudless, the air is bracing, and the sun by day and the moon by night fill the whole valley with a mild halo or glow which tranforms the tum- bling old houses lulled up along the river into things of beauty. Some hours before sunset the rattling of the carriages follows the flowing of the river down to the park, where Ave get the best view of the Florentines, who are extremely fond of show. The first thing they buy when they have a little money is a livery for a stately servant man ; the next is a livery for a coachman, and then they hire the coachman. After that they buy a shining patent-leather equix)age, and then a pair of high-stepi^ing horses which will stamp the iDavements as much as possible. Fi- nally, the ladies try their credit at the mil- liner's shop, and stretch it as far as possible to get a splendid outfit for their afternoon drives, when, with a grand air and imposing j)resence, I 70 European (r/iinpses and Glances, tliey lean back in tlie i^erfect contentment of patrician pride unmindful of tlieir unpaid bills. The Florentines don't buy stoves or wood to keej) warm in wdnter, but furs. All their si^len- dors they keej) for "the season." In other times it is understood that everybody is out of town, at their country seats. If you meet "anybody" it is altogether incognito, possibly in the "bus" instead of in the shining car- riage. It is then that other gorgeous appari- tions fill the streets. They sport enormous golden earrings and flaming dresses ; they have glistening black eyes and ebon hair, but sallow and powdered comj^lexions. After you have closed your eyes a moment, before so much dazzling splendoi*, you dare to look again and are agreeabl}^ surj^rised to recognize some jior- ter's wife or shop girl, avIio smiles with real dignity. You cannot help thinking that their love of the beautiful, which prompts them to so bedeck themselves is peacefully combined with indifference to the dirt they have left at home. It is easy to find in the stores light, cheap, showy materials, ])ut next to impossible to find good substantial goods, especially in under- wear. A shopkeeper told us that, in fur- European (tHiuPscs and Glances. \ 7 r nishing a trousseau for a great Italian lady, the amount spent for the whole linen supj^ly was less than tliat spent for one dress. Foreigners living in Florence have almost everything sent from abroad. The Italians produce very little Florence — Easter. except light silks, straw ware, mosaic and some things of art value. They have two very strange customs. They levy duties on eatables at their city gates, thus taxing the poor, who are remarkably submissive and long suffering, I 72 European Glimpses and Glanees. and the merchants or tradesmen make very little or no difference of price in wholesale or retail transactions. There are in Florence (and, indeed, in all Italy) many dawdlers who wish for nothing- better than to tramp about the whole day long, for a few cents, and to whom even light worlv is accounted a burden. The i^oorest have the same great patrimonj^ for which the richest of the world come in the winter to Italy— tlie sun and the genial climate ; and tliey learn fi'om it the great art of idling and being con- tent with little. When the^^ are hungry they lie down and let the sun shine on their stomaclis. In case the latter should crave too strongly for a more substantial diet, they beg a cent from the next God-sent foreigner, who seems to them a sui^j)lenient of the kindness of nature ; the cent secured, they go to the nearest fruit stand and buy some hot chestnuts or a handful of polenta. The government itself is just as imx^rovident. It sjjends more freely in endowing the thea- tres, or for the carnival and public spectacles, than in needful charities or beneficent institu- tions. Its great hobby is the Italian army, and especially the Italian navy. All of Italy's European Glimpses and Glances. 173 cities are full of soldiers in romantically drap- ed cloaks, bewitching gray trousers and tlie whole tail of a bird on the side of their hats. Their taste inclines more to the extraordinary than the modest, and they seem like the tamed offspring of the imj)osing brigands who ruled Italy in former generations. Their stirring mili- tary music, made with more spirit than skill, seems, even in pence, a lierce demonstration against their enemies. They apparently endeav- or to use up their entire energy in blowing their lungs through all the old brass instruments they can find in the countrj^ In truth, Italy seems, notwithstanding all the great improvements of the last decades, less a rising country than an antiquity shop full of interest for the student. The manners of the people are gentle and agreeable. They have a smile on their faces which, like the soft Italian skies, repairs every weakness or defect in the national character. CHAPTER XIII. From Florence to Paris— The Grape Culture— About the Vine- yards — Pure Wines considered in contradistinction to those that are adulterated— Some interesting Statistics of the Trade. — The Possibilities of the near Future. /^/J I l^^^'e Florence on one of those '^per- ^^^^-'^ feet days that make imperfect things impossible," — a balmy air, a cloudless sky, and such surroundings altogether as prompt one to regret the leaving. On the route to Paris the traveller passes through a region in Italy, for hundreds of miles, most admirably adapted to the cultiva- tion of the grape, and an immense acreage is, and long has been, devoted to vineyards. It would be difficult to find, anywhere, a more happy combination of conditions to this end than exists here. Both climate and soil seem exactly conditioned to x)roduce the best result. While in Florence we daily procured table grapes from the market that were simply per- fect, and not infrequently bunches among them weighed from two to three pounds ! Some of the berries were more than an inch in diame- ter, and all were dead ripe to the very centre. Europea7i Glimpses and Glances. i 75 There was not the least trace of that acid usually found in the centre of grapes produced in the more northern latitudes. The vines in many of the Italian vineyards are allowed to climb up on trees, from which the immense bundles hang in surprising pro- fusion. The trees are set in double rows, wide spaces being left between for the cultivation of other crops. In other sections, and espe- cially on the hill-sides in the mountain regions, the vines are trained upon trellises, as in Ger- many, and are set very close together, with only a space of about four feet between the rows, Avhich run both ways filling the whole space. In the region of the St. Gothard we noticed that, in many vineyards, stone posts about six feet high were used as supports for the trellises. As all the conditions for the x^i'Ofl^^ctlon of the best results in wines exist in Italy, and especially in Tuscany, the province of which Florence is the capital, we are not surprised to find it comparatively easy to procure most ad- mirable wines at a very moderate price. In the hotels of Germany, Switzerland, and even of France, a bottle of real old Bordeaux costs from one to two dollars, while we have been able to get excellent Italian wine for twenty 176 EiLTOpeaii Glimpses and Glances. or thirty cents a bottle. The effect of this beverage upon tiie organism is remarkably beneficial. A lady of our party who has rheu- matic tendency, and cannot take the least quan- tity of such Bordeaux claret as can be had at the European hotels without an immediate un- favorable effect, can drink the Italian vintages freely with her meals, not only without dele- terious result but Avith manifest benefit, as the vitalit}^ is low and the system requires just the tonic which the wine furnishes. There is, undoubtedly, a great future for the Italian wines, if the producers and dealers do not adopt the tricks of the French. The amount now produced is very moderate, com- pared to the capacity of the region adajited to the culture of the grape. Of course there is no fear of damage from frost, and, so far, there has been little injury from phylloxera and other pests which have worked such ruin in France during the last few years. Heretofore there has been but little effort made to procure for- eign markets for Italian wines. Moderate quantities have been sent to England, Germany and Russia, and more perhaps to France, for combining with the Bordeaux wines, but com- paratively little has gone to America. European Glimpses and Glances. 177 The bitter experience of the wine-drinking public with French red Avines, and tlie nniver- sal distrust prevailing in the United States lyS Eztropcaii Glimpses and Glances, of the wines of France, are good reasons why a large trade with Italy should be opened. In- deed, the producers and dealers of the Italian peninsula begin to see the advantages thus af- forded and to avail themselves of them. They are now making considerable shipments to this counlry and if they are wise enough to avoid following the bad example of the French, they should be able to build up a large trade in this direction. The present tariff war be- tween France and Italy may act as a stimulus on the Italian wine as well as on the silk trade. The import of French wine is well-nigh pro- hibited b}^ the high duty, and the habit of drinking it, as far as it still exists, will be eradicated. On the other hand the Italian wine, which, heretofore, has been exported to France, and from there re-exported, after some adul- teration, as a French brand, to other coun- tries, will, in consequence of the present com- mercial liostilities, avoid France, go directly by the St. Gothard to northern Euro2)e under its own name, and perhaps succeed in building up there a rei^utation of its own. Unfortunately the commercial enterprise of modern Italians is limited, and is improving but slowly. We heai'd of a great land-owner and European Glimpses and Glanees. i 79 wine-grower in Sicily, as one instance, wlio, since tlie commencement of the tariif war, lias ceased to pay liis bills, finding his wines vir- tnally excluded from France where he nsed to send tlieni. He lets his grapes rot on the vines instead of trying to find another market for them. This is simply a cljaracteristic case, illustrating the unenterpriying nature of the Italian and his indifference to his own in- terests when he has to create new conditions. The passage of the Alps by the Mt. Cenis tunnel brings us into France, which was long known as the "home of the vine," but has measurably lost this distinction during the last few years through the dishonesty of her wine merchants, as well as her producers, who now counterfeit her red wines with such skill that it can only be detected by good judges, or by its bad effect upon the consumer. It is Avell known that the country, of late, has not produced enough for its own use, that it imports more than it exports. For the ordinary mor- tal it is practically impossible to procure a pure French wine. There are extensive dealers at Bordeaux who do not hesitate to admit to their friends that their entire business consists of the production of "Bordeaux" wines by i8o European Glimpses and Glances. combining the cheap acid wines which they procure from Africa, Cypress and other parts of the Mediterranean region, with a little genu- ine Bordeaux to "flavor the compound ! It Italian Terminus of Mt. Cenis Tunnel. does not appear by their own confession whether they go a step further and add drugs, but, if they do not, others do, and escape the law if they are not quite as imj)rudent as the Eni-opean Glimpses and Glances. 18 French count who, being a wine grower on a large sciile near Nice, was only convicted after he had virtually poisoned and made ill hun- dreds of people. In view of these facts, and of the possibility of procuring pure wines from Italy, will not other countries turn to her for their supplies, and leave the French to con- sume their own \ There can be little doubt that the increase in the consumption of distilled liquors in France and Switzerland, which has been noticed re- cently, has been caused by the difficulty of procuring pure wines, that are healthful and satisfying, and by the use of fabricated mix- tures in Avhich crude alcohol is a principal ingredient, and which, consequently^, produce the morbid craving for the stronger distilled spirits. In Switzerland this evil threatened to become so alarming that the government has secured the monojDoly of all the brandy in the country, and fixed a high price upon it, so that the people cannot afford to i^uichase it. Across the channel, the people of Great Britain present a marked contrast in their drinking habits with those of the vine-growing countries. There the consumption of wines, except the heavy 2:>ort and sherries, is com para- i82 European Glimpses and Glances. tively small, while the quantities of distilled spirits and strong ale and porter consumed is something appalling, but, more appalling still, are the effects produced upon the drinkers, es^^e- cially the lower classes. Among the most im- portant missionary measures of reform there should be the introduction of pure simple wines, which can be sold at such moderate price as to be easily within the reach of all. The following figures and statistics are full of interest in this connection, showing con- clusively the almost absolute impossibility of procuring pure French wines in America, by the fact that they do not j)roduce enough for their own consumption, and also showing the possibilities existing in our own country, not only for supi^lying the home demand but of exporting it extensively to other countries. Before the advent of the destroying phyllox- era in Europe, France had an area of 6,000,000 acres in vines, and produced at one time over 2,000,000,000 gallons of wine annually. Since then, what with the phylloxera and other dis- eases of the vine, the acreage has fallen off nbout one-half, and the product has dropped to about 700,000,000 gallons, and to-day she pro- European Glimpses and Glances. 183 duces less wine than her population consumes, and her exportation must be measured by her imports from neighboring countries supple- mented by the 100,000,000 gallons made from raisins, and the cider x^roducts of the north of France. As to French brandy, it is a thing of the past, so far as it may be commercially considered. In 1870 the entire product of wine in the United States was only 3,000,000 gallons. Each succeeding year has marked a steady increase, till in 1880 it amounted to near 40,000,000 gal- lons, while our importations have steadil}^ dwindled from 11,000,000 gallons in 1871 to 4,000,000 in 1886. Considering the increase in population, this is a very great falling off in imports, and the ratio of increase in our na- tive product, indicated by the above figures, fully warrant us in anticipating the most im- portant results for our vineyard interests in the near future. From present indications it seems not unlikely that, twenty years hence, American viticulture will take front rank in point of quality and variety of grape produc- tion, and our wines and other vineyard products will be known in ever}^ market in the world. California has at the present time over 184 European Glimpses and Glances, 300,000 acres in vines, and the ratio of in- crease is at the rate of one hundred per cent, every three and a half years. California has more acreage adapted to grape culture than France, while, in the divisions east of the Rocky Mountains, the acreage is just about equal to that of California. CHAPTEK XIV. The Paris of to-day — Its hannoiiious Architecture — Something of its early History — Great Im})rovements under Napoleon III. — Principal public Buildings, Squares, etc. OiS'E of the first things that imx)resses the visitor to Paris is its admirable situation. AVhen the cit}^ is viewed from any commanding height, as the Arc de Triomphe, the Pantheon, or the cemetery of Pere La Chaise, it X)resents a beautiful and complete panoraina. Every building and monument stands out in the clear air, as clean cut as a cameo, and as you trace the avenues, the boule- vards and the river, with the foliage of the parks and gardens interspersed, the scene is most lovel3^ A markedly noticeable feature of Paris is its architecture. The visitor is not haunted with that unsatisfactory feeling which he experi- ences in most cities he visits, produced by the evident lack of intelligent design, for here, in the laying out of the streets, squares and parks, and esx^ecially in the construction of the build- ings, both public and private, monuments and 185 t86 European Glimpses and Glances. government works, brain and taste and skill are eminently conspicuous. ]\Iore than is true of any other great city we have ever visited, it seems to be the harmonious product of some single master braiu, which has not only con- ceived the general plan upon which it has been constructed, but has inspired every detail dur- ing the whole process, controlling the genius as well as the hands that have been instru- mental in producing the completed result. These dominant features of the city have, be- yond a doubt, done much toward promoting that sense of harmony and that appreciation of the beautiful which so eminently characterize the Parisians, and to this influence Ave may trace the fact that all strangers fall in love with Paris, and that so many remain and make permanent homes here. The City of Paris, as it stands to-day, is the work of centuries of steady and patient effort (though greatly modernized under Louis Phi- lippe and Napoleon III.), the most valuable re- sult of which is tlie effect it has had in inspir- ing the people with a love of the beautiful and the harmcmious, not only in architecture but in art. This gradual education of " the masses" of Paris may be easily traced in the present European Glimpses and Glances. 187 population, who, wliile tliey are in many ways ignorant and uncultivated, nevertheless possess that keen sense of beauty, harmony and fitness, which has made them unconscious art critics^ as it were. Indeed, a building, a monument, or a Avork of art that succeeds in securing the Place Vendome. approval of its people, is sure to possess merits that Avill stand the criticism of those who as- sume to be special judges in such matters. The effect of this kind of culture, upon the true Parisian, is shown in the fact that all classes are always present in great numbers 1 88 European Glimpses and Glances. where a new monument is unveiled, a new building or bridge is disclosed to tlie view, a IDublic work inaugurated, or a new i)ainting or statue submitted to public inspection. The comments of tlje crowd, many of whom cannot even read or write, are most instructive, on sucli occasions, and show^ an appreciation rarely, if ever, found in the commonalty of other great cities of the world. It is exceedingly interesting to trace to their sources, in the past history of Paris, the influ- ences from which have resulted many of the admirable institutions now existing here, and to study the working of those influences down through the centuries to the conditions of to- day. The earliest account we have of Paris rej^re- sents it as a small collection of mud Jiuts, and, for many centuries of its earlier history, very little advance was made in its condition. In the middle ages it showed marked and indi- vidualized signs of progress. During the latter portion of this long period of darkness and gloom, which embraced more than a thousand years, covering the centuries between the de- cline of the first Roman Empire and the time of the Reformation^ great progress was made Ettropcaii Glimpses and Glances. 189 in laying the foundation of institutions which were brought to their fruition througli the efforts of the reigning nionarchs of tlie succeed- ing periods. During the period of the Revolution many monuments of the middle ages were mutilated or destroyed, the line arts were neglected, the material growth was checked, and the j)opula- tion wiis diminished. But the basis for many of the iniX)rovenients of to-day was laid during this very period of upheaval. Numbeis of the institutions of which the Parisians are to-day so proud, date from the reigns of Louis XI. nnd Louis XIY. An enormous sum of money was expended upon public works under Napoleon L, and many edifices commenced by him were finished by his successors. Tlie great ])rogress made in the development of imju-ovements under Louis Philippe was suddenly arrested by the Revolution of 1848, but only to be resumed again and pushed with great vigor by Napoleon TIT. after he became emjoeror. Old Paris, so crowded with historical associations, with its narrow, crooked streets, infested with disease, and swarming with a rev- olutionary population, now gave way to the changes which transformed it into the mag- 190 European Glimpses and GL ances. nificent city that we to day behold. All the grand adornments projected by Louis XIY. and Napoleon I. Avere carried forward to com- pletion with surprising vigor by Napoleon III. The Louvre was completed, and joined with ''^, Bois de Boulogne — The Cascade. the Tuileries ; the Bois de Boulogne Avas laid out ; the wonderful sewers were constructed ; thousands of old houses were demolished and miles of broad avenues or boulevards were laid out and lined with ma£2:nificent blocks of build- European Gliiupscs and Glances. 191 ings, while at the same time a series of public works was inaugurated and jierfected not equalled by those of any other city of modern times. The x^liysical cliange wrouglit in the aspect of Paris by the genius and energy of Naj)oleon III. is the most worthy monument he has left behind, and will serve to i)erpetuate what is commendable in his character, not only with his own countrj^men but with all who visit the city he so elaborately transfoimed and lavishly beautified. We give herewith a brief description of some of the most important structures of Paris, in- cluding public buildings, churches and monu- ments. The palace of the Tuileries was commenced in 1564, and was originally designed as a resi- dence for Catherine de Medicis. It was com- pleted by Louis XIV. During its history it has been the seat of many most extraordinary scenes of mob violence. This was the scene of the massacre of the Swiss guards in 1792, whose bravery has been so admirably com- memorated by the great Swedish sculptor Thor- waldsen, in his "Lion of Lucerne." It was subsequently the official residence of Napoleon 92 European Glimpses and Glances. I., Louis Philij)pe, and Napoleon III., until its destruction by the Commune in 1871. It was rebuilt in 1885-1888. Existing records of tlie spot occupied by tlie Louvre date back many centuries. As early Palace of the Tuileries, and Louvre. as 1200 it was occupied by a stronghold and a prison. At tliis time it was outside the walls of the city. The present building was l)egun in 1528 by Francis I. A great deal of labor and treasure was expended upon the struc- ture, from time to time, through a period of liuropean Glimpses and Glai. ices. 19. nearly three centuries. In the very beginning of the ijresent centurj^, when the wliole pile seemed destined to become a dihipidated ruin, Napoleon I. came to the rescue and hnished the work. The Louvre now contains one of The Louvre. the grandest collections of works of art in the world. While tlie galleries of Rome and Florence and other European cities are richer in the works of some of the old masters, none pre- sent so good an oi)portunity as the Louvre 194 Eitropcan Glimpses and Glances. and the galleries of Paris, to the student and the connoisseur, to gain a knowledge of tlie best worivs of both ancient and modern artists. Every facility is offered for the admission of all classes of visitors or students, the principal galleries being oi3en for five or six days in the week, and they are always thronged on Sun- days and holidays. The education in art thus obtained by the peoj^le shows itself in various ways, in their dress and furniture and house- hold decorations, while, on a broader scale, it is seen in the laying out of private grounds, the decorations of theatres and public buildings. The Palais Royal was originalh'^ built by Cardinal Richelieu, who presented it to King Louis XIII., when it took its present name. It was subsequently the abode of royalty for many years, and meantime passed througli many vicissitudes. It was devastated by the mob in February 1848, and finally the Com- mune set it on tire in 1871. It has been since repaired . The Palace of the Luxembourg was original- ly built after the style of the celebrated Pitti Palace at Florence. It Avas planned and erect- ed ui^on a scale of great magnihcence, and a wealth of ai't was lavished upon its halls and EMVopcan Gliiiipscs and C lances, 195 corridors. It is specially rich in sculptures and frescos, and is now appropriately used as a receptacle for the works of tlie most celebrated artists. Tlie Hotel des Invalides, organized under Louis Xiy., is a most admirable institution. It is under the control of the War Depart- ment, and is a great boon to the old soldiers, as it has accommodations for five thousand pen- sioners and always contains a large number who are clothed and supported and cared for. The main central building is surmounted by a gilded dome, which is a conspicuous object in any view one obtains of Paris. Immediately under the dome is the tomb of Napoleon, to which his remains Avere transferred in 1861. The tomb is an exceedingly massive structure, and is probably the most impressive monu- ment of this character ever constructed. The main building has a frontage of over six hun- dred feet and the property owned by the in- stitution is worth a vast sum. The squares and promenades or open plazas of Paris, with their monuments and artistic embellishments, are also worthy of note, and especially as with many of them are associated some of the most important and exciting events I96 European Glimpses and Glances, connected with, the history of the city. In the Dome des Invalides. immediate vicinity of some of the most cele- brated and imposing liistorical structures is the Btiropean Glimpses and Glances. 197 Place de la Concorde. Until the reign of Louis Xy. this site was a wild waste. That mon- arch inaugurated the movement which has re- sulted in the scene which the square now pre- sents, and commenced adorning it with statues and fountains, the works of the most celebrated artists of the period. Here stands the mag- nificent obelisk of Luxor, which was presented to the French people by the Viceroy of Egypt. It was erected in I'lont of the Temple of Thebes 1.550 yenrs before Christ. It required three years to remove it to its present position and involved an expense of 2,000,000 francs. In the Place de la Concorde was first set up the guillotine, on which many histoiical ])ersonages lost their lives during those terrible times which have been well designated as the "Reign of Terror." At this spot have been proclaimed many important events involving the peace or war of France The Champs Elysees is immediately connected with the Place de la Concorde; in fact they form together one of the grandest promenades in the world, terminating with the renowned Arc de Triomphe, which is situated on an ele- vated spot commanding an admirable view of Paris, igS Etiropean Glimpses and Glaiices. Place cle TEtoile occupies an immense space in circular form, on the summit of tlie eleva- tion, in the centre of which stands the Arc de Arc de Triomphe. Triomphe. Twelve grand avenues radiate from this place in all directions. The Place de la Bastile, occupying a square jn the midst of the city, is the site of the his- Eia^opean Glimpses and Glances, 199 torical Bastile, whose gloomy dungeon walls through hundreds of years echoed with the de- spairing groans of the helpless prisoners wiiose only crime Avas a love of libert^^, or perchance the expression of the sentiments which such a love inspires in patriotic hearts. The old Bastile was demolished by the peo- ple in July, 1789. The foundation of a monu- ment, wdiich is called The Column of July, was laid by Louis Philippe iu July, 1831. This square has been many times one of the chief rallying points of the Communists when bent on their errands of destruction, and is appro- priately marked by the impressive monument now standing in its centre. Adjoining Place du Chatelet, which is one of the famous land-marks of Paris, is the grand old Gothic tower of St. Jacques. It is the only remaining part of the Church of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, Avhich was erected early in the sixteenth century. Some fifty years since the city purchased the tower, and has since maintained it at a cost of over a million francs for repairs. In the middle of Place Yendome, where for- merly stood a colossal equ(\striaii statue of Louis XTY., now stands the Colonne Vendome, a 200 European Glimpses and Glances. niagiiificent memorial of tlie i^ast, originally erected by Napoleon, to commemorate his snc- European Glimpses and Glances. 201 cesses in the German war of 1805. It was de- molislied by the Commune in May, 1871, and subsequently reconstructed from the original fragments. It contains an immense Aveiglit of bronze, taken from the guns captured from the enemy. One of the most imposing church edifices in Paris is Notre Dame. Its massive double towers and magnificent front, with its wealth of art decorations, render it famous among the many line church buildings of which the city cim boast. It is one of the best remaining speci- mens of Old Paris, wliich has not been invaded by the iconoclastic spirit of our modern civiliza- tion. It stands in solemn grandeur, a genuine relic of the past, being now more than 800 years old. The Madeleine was originally partially fin- ished as a church, and was completed b}' Napo leon as a Temple of Glory, but afterwards was restored to its original use. It is in the form of a Greek temple, is surrounded by porticos sustained by fifty-two lofty marble columns, and is one of the grandest and most imposing edifices in Paris. It is especially rich in statu- ary and fine artistic embellishments. The Pantheon, which is the most elevated 202 EiLTOpeaii Glimpses and Glances. building in Paris, and lience affords a wide- spread view of tlie city and surroundings, is one of the most remarkable buildings of the capital. It was commenced in tlie reign of Louis XV. in 1764. The vaults contain monuments to the ^'t-Aa-csi. o /-. Church of the Madeleine. memory of Voltaire and Rousseau, and the re- mains of many of the great men of France rest here. It is one of the most tlioroughly construct- ed buildings in the city. Some of the stones in the vaults are more than fviiy feet long, and were so completely matched that they were laid Btcropeau Glimpses and Glances. 203 witliout cement, as was the entire foundation of the building. The structure contains some grand compositions in relief, and the most cele- brated artists of the day were employed in its decoration. The Pantheon. Few travellers leave Paris without visiting the Pantheon and inspecting the remarkable vaults underneath. There are, of course, a large number of thea- tres in the city and all are well patronized, the 204 European Glimpses and Glances. French being decidedly an amusement-loving people. The Paris Opera House is the grand- est and the most expensive theatre building in the world. It cost about 50,000,000 francs. Fontainebleau — Palace. The edifice is a triumph of architectural skill, and the decorations are exceedingly elaborate and artistic. The main entrance and staircase are unequalled in splendor and effectiveness. A large number of buildings and even whole European Glimpses and Glances, 205 streets were demolished in order to give this *' Palace of Pleasure" an appropriate and el'- feclive setting. Many places in the suburbs of Paris are of exceeding interest, and weeks may be most profitably spent in visiting them. Versailles, w^ith its endless palaces, galleries, and gardens ; Fontainebleau, with its unrivalled old residence of kings and iiicomiDarable forest, which is sixty-tliree miles in circumference; St. Ger- main, one hour by rail from Paris, replete Avit'.i the memories of royalty; St. Denis, with its noble old Abbey, within whose precincts were interred so many roj^al personages ; St. Cloud, on the Seine and near the city, one of the residences of Napoleon III., etc., etc. CHAPTER Xy. IHE FRENCHMAN AS HE IS TO AMERICAN EYES. BROM whatever cause it may arise, tlie French character and temperament are full of mental exhilaration and vivacity. The French people think rapidly, if not methodi- cally, and act swiftly. They seize their pre- mises with lightning rapidity, and rush to their conclusions with bewildering speed, never allowing time for other than the foregone con- clusion. No side issues dissuade them from the most speedy attainment of the end in view. Mental elation seems idiosyncratic with the Frenchman, and Paris is the focal point to which all his mental electrical wires con- verge. This universal vivaciousness is contagious, and no one can enter the atmosphere prevailing here without being^ sensibly affected by its pe- culiar magnetic quality. Americans are more impressive to its influence, j)ei'haps, than others, because they are no strangers to that intensity of thought and action, in their own business affairs, which here prevails in every sphere of E2tropcari Glimpses and Gh a J ices. 207 life. With us this has largely arisen from tlie conditions under which the nation has been de- veloped, our [)opulation having been gathered from all countries of the world and welded in- to a homogeneous mass, and the efforts neces- sary to overcome the difficulties encountered, S LAHC O Fontainebleau — Gallery of Francis I. and to conquer the situation, tend towards the formation of one energetic, ever-read}^ self-reli- ant, thriving nation. The French people are homogeneous, to begin with. They, too, are energetic and thriving, but the magnetic quality — the enthusiasm of 2o8 European Glimpses and Glances. feeling— seems to be so generally diffnsed as to affect their wliole cliaracter. Their social and political life are moulded and controlled by it, and every department of their lives conforms to its subtle stimulus or energy. With this quality is combined an exceedingly inactlcal element. The Frenchman cannot con- ceive that any superhuman dominating j^ower can oi^erate upon human affairs in a direct way. Everything outside of human reason or his own cognition seems fantastic to him. He scarcely has any higher object of worshij) than human intelligence. Hence the almost general prevalence in France of that scepticism which is so shocking to the large class known as "believers" in such countries as Great Britain and the United States. It is this implicit belief in intelligence, and his blind confidence in its efficacy, which makes the Frenchman so effective in formulating his ideas, so successful in proi)agating them, and so earnest in impos- ing them upon others. It is, doubtless, tliis combination of the ele- ments of self-assertion in the French mind which has given their literature such a wide- spread circulation ; that has caused French books so greatly to outnumber all others upon the European Glimpses and Glances. 209 shelves of the book- sellers in all European countries except i^erhaps Great Britain. From the same cause, also, arises the fact that French is now the diplomatic language of Eurox^e. For a Frenchman to become convinced of a truth is to precipitate himself upon it, to Gallery of Henri II. — Fontainebleau, embody it himself, to carry it to others, and comx~)el its accej)tance with the vehemence which distino'uishes his character, and bv which he accomplishes his ends. The Frenchman has his one set of civilized ideas, and is fond of contrasting them with tlie more methodic and realistic ideas of tlie Eno- 2IO European Glimpses and Glances. lish. These ideas are at once elastic and sup- ple yet firm as steel and as tenacious. Frenclinien are easily moved to external demonstration through the enlhusicism which amounts to national egotism. This accounts for their frequent political outbursts, their mobs, Forest of Fontainebleau. their revolutions. It is the basis of the Com- mune, of the Republic, of the Monarchy, of tlie Empire. In their personal traits and domestic charac- teristics the French are most peculiar, and differ widely from the i)eople of England and Amer- ica. They find little amusement in boating European iilinipscs and Glances. 2 1 1 and swimming, in horse racing and liunting, and the vigorous s^iorts in which the people of those countries indulge Avitli sucli enjoyment. Indeed, tliese boisterous sports are ratlier re- liulsive to them. They delight in fencing and boxing because these constitute the school in which they learn to defend their honor and their ii-repressible egoism. Their education serves to promote narrow- ness, conceit and x>ride rather than cosmopolitan and truly liberal ideas. Hence France (and es- pecially Paris) is the whole world to them, or at least the centre of the world. They are scarcely behind the Chinese in their bigotry, in this respect. Other nations may have their good points, but the French are, in their own conception, the most cultured, the wittiest and the most intelligent of the human race. They are only sorry for the people of other countries that they are not Frenchmen. Tliey have a high appreciation of liberty, and no nation understands it better in theory^ but tlie}^ lack that sober and serious persistence necessary to crystallize it into permanent in- stitutions. The Frenchman has, in verj^ small degree, those qualities which would constitute him a 212 El wop can Glimpses and Gla?ices, martyr. He will figlit for his ideal, but, while the fight is earnest and intense, it is apt to be spasmodic and brief, especially if the opposing foices are strong and sustained. His disincli- nation to encounter unpleasant conditions, and his desire to subserve his own comfort and Street View. pleasure, are stronger in the long run than his love of jiiinciple. "Liberty, Equality, Fraternity" is emblazon- ed upon the public buildings and monuments of Paris, having but recently supplanted the mottos and insignia of royalty and the Empire. European Glimpses and Glanees. 2 \ 3 There is no lack of proof of the Frenchman's love of freedom, and there are evidences on all hands going to show that the national rallying cry and signet—" Liberty, Equality and Fra- tp:rnity I " embodies his true political creed, and he has shown no lack of elan and courage in sustaining it. But all ])ast exj^erience prompts the question. Has he the requisite per- sistence and stability of character to maintain his aspirations, to breast the opposition, and sui^press the tremendous efforts that are uever lacking to rob him of liberty, to deny his equality and to render fraternity a mockery ? Has he? A near future will decide! CHAPTER XYI. HOMEWARD BOUJ^^D. Leaving Paris — Tiie historic old City of Rouen — Its celebrated Churches — Havre, the Seaport of Paris — Its Commerce — Embarking for Home on the Steamer Normandie. ' i^ AYING passed a summer that has been «-L^ quite unusual as to unwelcome climatic conditions, the atmosphere having been excep- tionally damp and chilly, everywhere except in Italy, and having made our tourist notes of 'men and things'- encountered, we draw to- wards the close of the Glances and Glimpses of the scenes and events herewith presented to those who may feel sucli an interest in our record as to follow us in our wanderings ; w^e turn our faces homeward, pausing long enough in the gay French capital to catch such views of the unending panorama as may enable us to note the changes that liave transpired since our previous visit. Paris is, at all times, a city of especial inter- est to the traveller, and it always includes within its limits a large number of people be- sides its own citizens. Hiere is a constant ai4 European Glimpses and Glances, 215 succession of "transients," wlio tarry here for a brief visit as they go and come in their con- tinental wanderings, besides quite a foreign contingent or cohjny who makes its permanent residence here. Havre — A view in the Suburbs. But there seems to be a growing indisposi- tion on tlie part of wealthy foreigners to settle here, and on the part of tourists to make ns frequent and extended visits as formerly, aris- ing no doubt from tlie fact that the authorities, 2i6 European Glimpses and Glances. under Republican rule, are less lavisli in their outlay for promoting the enjoyment of the people and for stimulating trade than was the case under the Empire. Much of this state of things is idso due, un- questionably, to that feeling of insecurity which is prompted by a want of confidence in the permanency of the present government. The instinctive dread of violent changes, and the constant appreliension that they are imminent, always act disastrously upon tlie trade and prosperity of such a city as Paris. For these reasons London is now taking the precedence over Paris as a rallying point for travellers, and even as a residence with tho.-e who settle down for a longer or shorter period ; and this, notwithstanding its marked disadvan- tage as it respects situation and climate, com- pared with Paris. The majority of Americans who travel on the continent, return home via London and Liverpool, though it involves much more ex- ])ense and fatigue, and despite the fact that equally as good accommodations are afforded by the French line of steamers from Havre, which can be reached by a pleasant railway I'ide of five hours from Paris. European GliiJipses and Glances. 2 1 7 We choose the latter route, and take the train for Rouen, where we pause for a single day to visit one of the most interesting old cities of France. Rouen has a population of more than 100, OUO, and is, therefore, one of the largest of French cities. In its architecture and streets it contains a strange mixture of the old and the new. In tlie old city the streets were exceedingly narrow, and lined with quaint structures, many of which have stood for hundreds of years. Some samples of this character still remain, and are exceedingly interesting. But, during the last fifty years, old buildings and streets have been swept away and wide avenues opened and lined with new structures, so that all the rebuilt por- tions of the city have a modern as^^ect which contrasts curiously with those portions of the old Rouen yet left undisturbed. A grand boulevard has been constructed around the city, on the site of the old fortifica- tions, from many j)oints of which fine views are afforded. The chief edifice is Rouen Cathedral, which is quite celebrated, and contains a large num- ber of sculptures and monuments. The heart of Coeur de Lion was buried here. The Church 2i8 European Glimpses and Glances, of St. Oiien is one of the finest Gothic edifices in Europe. It was commenced in the four- teenth century, and is a larger and nobler struc- ture than the cathedral, but contains less his- torical monuments. Rouen lies directly on the Seine, which is navigable for heavy vessels to this point. It has a large trade with the United States, and imports immense quantities of cotton, petro- leum, etc. It is the centre of one of the larg- est cotton-manufacturing districts in the world, employing over 200,000 operatives. Joan of Arc was burned here, in one of the squares, in the year 1431. The town was at that time in possession of the English, but was afterwards recaptured by the French. It is well provided with museums of natural his- tory, galleries of the fine arts and depositories of industry. Havre, which is tiie seaport proper of Paris, and 143 miles distant by railway, is one of the principal watering places in Northern France. It was founded in the year 1516. It has been so largely rebuilt during the last fifty years that it has the appearance of a modern city, though some bits of tlie old town are visi- ble here and there, presenting a most quaint European Glimpses and Glances. 219 appearance in contrast with the new struc- tures. Havre has one of the best harbors in France, upon which large amounts liave been exjpended in erecting and maintaining the necessary sea Havre — A Northwester. barriers for its effectual x3rotection. Her trade is the result of a steady growth through three centuries, and now it is an important factor in the commerce of the worhl. Immense quan- tities of the leading products of the United 2 20 Eui'Opean Glimpses and Glances. States enter this port, with corresponding ex- ports of the agricultural commodities and manu- Havre — Departure of a Steamer for New York, factures of Francec Her docks and basins are among the finest in the world, covering more European Glimpses and Glances. 221 than fifty acres. Previous to the opening of the sixteenth century it was little more than a fishing village, but, under the special patron- age bestowed upon its marine during the reigns of Louis XVI. and Napoleon I., it de- veloped into a first-class port. The modern city has outgrown the old limits, has swept away its walls and ramparts, and is spreading over the neighboring heights, which are exceedingly sightly and picturesque. Stand- ing at the highest point of these lovely hills we are warned of the approacliing hour for the departure of oui' steamer, by the shrill whistle of the special train from Paris, exclusively jqv propriated to the j)assengers she is waiting to receive. So we hasten to the dock, and join in the procession as it files on board the steamer, recognizing several acquaintances among the usual variet}^ of types that go to make up the complement for the voyage, and soon find ourselves on board the Normandie and fairly embarked on the voyage that is to bear us to the coveted shores of "our own, our native land." 14 DAY USE ! RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. ^..^^'^ .-. \y ^^^" , ,^S^ N^Xi-X "Mlt^trXl^'ii' UoiSS£^;-&ai. / 2581 50