UC-NRLF 
 
 B M Ibb 
 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 FRANCIS J. TURNER 
 
THE 
 
 GEOLOGY OF NEW ZEALAND: 
 
 IN EXPLANATION OF THE 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL 
 
 ATLAS OF NEW ZEALAND 
 
 BY 
 
 DR. F. VON HOCHSTETTER AND DR. A. PETERMANN. 
 
 FROM THE SCIENTIFIC PUBLICATIONS OF THE 
 NOVAEA EXPEDITION. 
 
 TRANSLATED BY DR. C. F. FISCHER. 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 LECTURES BY DR. F. HOCHSTETTER 
 
 DELIVERED IN NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 AUCKLAND: T. DEL ATT HE, (jL-EEN STJiEKT. 
 1864. 
 
' 
 *<"- 
 
 CfiEIGHTON AND SCALES, PRINTERS, O'CONNELL-STREET, AUCKLAND. 
 
CONTENTS. . . 
 
 rf 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Observations upon the Chartography of New Zealand, by 
 
 Dr. A. Petermann ...... 3 
 
 Lecture on the Geology of the Province of Auckland, by 
 
 Dr. F. v. Hochstetter . . . .8 
 
 New Zealand, Geographical and Geological Survey : Explanation 
 
 of Map 1 41 
 
 The Geological Formation of the Southern Part of the 
 
 Province of Auckland, Map II. ... 47 
 
 Record of the heights of the Southern part of the Province 
 
 of Auckland . . . . .56 
 
 The Isthmus of Auckland and its extinct Volcanos, Map III. 62 
 Rotomahana (or the Warm Lake) and its hot springs, Map IV. 67 
 
 Whaingaroa, Aotea, and Kawhia, three harbours on the West 
 
 Coast of the Province of Auckland, Map V. .72 
 
 Lecture on the Geology o tne Province of Nelson, by Dr. F. v. 
 
 Hochstetter .... 77 
 
 Explanation of the Map of the Province of Nelson, Map VI. . 108 
 
I. 
 
 OBSEBVATIONS UPON THE CHARTOGRAPHY OF 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 BY DE. A. PETEEMANN. 
 
 THE History and Progress of the G-eographical Knowledge 
 and Chartography of New Zealand may be classified into 
 four periods : 
 
 1642, The discovery by Tasman. 
 
 1769, The investigation and survey by Cook. 
 
 1848, Survey by the English Admiralty. 
 
 1859, Commencement of the surveys in the interior by 
 
 E. von Hochstetter and Julius Haast. 
 
 The Dutch navigator, Abel Jansen Tasman, discovered 
 New Zealand on the 13th December, 1642, observing from 
 the westward the clouded summits of the Southern 
 Alps. He sailed along the coast, passing Cook's Straits 
 and the Northern Island up to the Three Kings. Although 
 he saw the greater part of the "West Coast of New Zealand, 
 the result of his observations was very incomplete and 
 erroneous, which is proved by the fact that he considered New 
 Zealand as a part of the Terra Australia Incognita which, 
 according to his supposition, stretched to the far east, and was 
 connected with the South Cape of America. 
 
 The knowledge of New Zealand made no advance for 
 nearly a century, until the time when Cook anchored at 
 Tauranga, Poverty Bay, on the East Coast, on the 8th of 
 October, 1769 ; and it was on this his first visit and his second 
 and third (1773-74, 1779), that he investigated New Zealand, 
 sailed round it, and finished a survey of its entire coast. New 
 Zealand was visited nearly at the same time by two Erench 
 navigators, viz. : in December, 1769, by Captain -Surville, 
 and in the year 1772 by the unfortunate Captain Marion, who 
 
 u 
 
4 THE CHARTOGRAPIIY OP NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 was killed and eaten by the natives at the Bay of Islands. 
 Neither of the expeditions added anything of importance to 
 Cook's observations or to the knowledge of the country. 
 
 Through Cook's glorious discoveries the attention of Europe 
 was drawn in a very marked manner to New Zealand. 
 Whalers visited its harbours, and occasional adventurers 
 began to settle ; but the early period of the European coloni- 
 zation was attended only with crime and disgrace. A new and 
 better era began with the year 1814, when Samuel Marsden 
 founded the first Christian mission ; from that time the 
 intercourse between the Europeans and Aboriginals wa.s 
 better regulated. An attempt at colonization was made in 
 the year 1825, but it was not until 1840 that New Zealand 
 became an English Colony. 
 
 Since the time of Cook, in the year 1769, and still more, 
 since that of Marsden, in 1814, down to the Admiralty surveys 
 in 1848, the literature bearing upon New Zealand is comprised 
 in a great number of very valuable publications, official reports, 
 works of travels, books, pamphlets of various kinds, charts and 
 maps. Thompson* counts not less than two hundred and forty- 
 five. Amongst the maps of the period are Cook's surveys, the 
 detail charts of separate bays and harbours, by English and 
 French naval officers reckoning from North to South : Port 
 Monganui, by A. H. Halloran, 1845 ; Bay of Islands, by M. 
 Duperrey, 1824 ; Tutukaka Harbour and Nongodo Kiver, by N. 
 C. Phillips, 1837 ; Mahurangi Harbour, by J. A. Cudlip, 
 1834 ; Port Nicholson, by E. M. Chaffers, 1839 ; Manukau 
 Harbour, by Gr. O. Ormsby, 1845 ; Torrent Bay and Astrolabe 
 Eoad, by M. Guilbert, 1827 ; Current Basin, by M. G-uilbert, 
 1827; Port Hardy and Port G-ore, by Lieutenant Moore, 
 1834 ; Tory Channel, by E. M. Chaffers, 1839 ; Port Under- 
 wood in Cloudy Bay, by Gr. Johnson, 1837 ; Akaroa Harbour, 
 by Commander O. Stanley, 1840 ; Eouabouki Eoad, by Lieut. 
 O. "Wilson, 1839 j Dusky and Chalky Bay, by M. Daperrey, 
 1824. The survey of the settlement and the beautiful map 
 of New Plymouth and its vicinity, by E. A. Carriugton, 1840 ; 
 
 * "The Story of New Zealand," vol. II, , p. 341 et sey.; see also the 
 larger work by Hochstetter "New Zealand," p. 549. 
 
THE CHAKTOGRAPIIY OF NEW ZEALAND. 5 
 
 the Harbour and City of Auckland, the Capital of New 
 Zealand, with the districts of the rivers Kaipara, Waitemata, 
 Tamaki, "Wairoa, "Waihou or Thames, Mercury Bay, Kawia, 
 Piako, "Waipa, Waikato, Manukau, Taurauga, etc., compiled 
 from various sources by J. Arrowsmith, 1842 (with branch 
 maps : Auckland the Capital of New Zealand, surveyed by 
 Helton Matthew, Survey or- General of 'New Zealand, 1841 ; 
 and a Trigonometrical Survey of the Harbour of the Waite- 
 mata and the Isthmus which separates the waters of the 
 Thames from those of the Manukau, by Captain Owen Stanley, 
 E.N., and Eelton Matthew, 1841) ; the maps of Dieffenbaeh's 
 travels, by Arrowsmith, &c. 
 
 All the maps and surveys of New Zealand existing before 
 1848, consisted of disconnected fragments ; but it must be 
 remembered that it is a country of an area of not less than 
 630 square miles Jarger than the present Kingdom of Italy.* 
 
 The important survey of the New Zealand coast was under- 
 taken by the command of the English Admiralty, under the 
 direction of Captain J. Lort Stokes and Commander Byron 
 Drury, in the surveying ships " Acheron " and " Pondora," 
 and occupied a period of eight years, from 1848 to 1855, and 
 now forms one of the most magnificent of the many produc- 
 tions of the English navy. Besides the above-named com- 
 manders, the following officers were engaged in this work : 
 Commander Gr. H. Eichards, E. J. Evans, E. Bradshaw, J. W. 
 Smith, P. W. Oke, E. Burnett, H. Kerr, T. Kerr, "W. Blackney, 
 H. Ellis, A. Farmer, C. Stanley, J. M. Pridham, D. Pender, 
 J. "W. -Hamilton, and C. Kettle. The result of this survey 
 occupies fifty sheets, thirty-three of which are in the large 
 chart formula (double elephant) . They are carefully engraved 
 on copper, and were published in twelve years, from 1850 to 
 1861, in the following series: fourteen sheets were published 
 from 1850 to 1856, twenty-one sheets in the year 1857, and 
 twelve from 1858 to 1861. Some sheets contain several plans 
 in various scales, from the smallest 1:1:750.000 to the largest 
 1:5000. In the smallest size is published the general chart, 
 
 * The area of New Zealand is 4,703 German, and that of Italy 4,674 
 German square miles, 
 
 B 2 
 
6 THE CHAETO GRAPH Y OF 1S T EW ZEALAND. 
 
 No. 1,212 price, 3s. 6d. Then follow fourteen sheets of the 
 largest formula, which are on one and the same scale 
 of 1:230.000,* and which embrace the whole of New Zealand. t 
 Comparing these fourteen sheets with Hey maim' s Map of 
 G-ermany and Central Europe, on the scale of 1:200.000, and 
 supposing them divided in the same manner as Reymann's, 
 they would have formed exactly one hundred of such sheets. 
 This will give an idea of the magnitude of this survey. Of the 
 remaining fifty-nine charts and plans, six are at a scale of 
 1:145.000 to 1:48.000; eleven, 1:36.000; two, 1:27.000 and 
 1:26.000; seventeen, 1:24.000; three, 1:22.000; eleven, 1:21.000 
 to 1:12.000; and nine, 1:9000 to 1:5000. 
 
 While, through the surveys of the Admiralty, the outlines 
 of New Zealand were carefully and completely settled, 
 the knowledge of the interior was gradually developed by the 
 surveys of the various settlements and through exploring 
 expeditions, and especially in the South Island journeys of 
 discovery were undertaken into the interior. The account of 
 the expedition of Thomas Brunner, in the year 1846-47, from 
 'Nelson in a southerly direction along the coast to Tihihai 
 Head, was published in the Journal of the Eoyal Geographical 
 Society, in 1850, with a small map. A short account of 
 
 * As all the charts are according to Mercator's projection, the single 
 sheets differ naturally in the scales, and in such a way that the northern 
 sections are 1: 300.000, and the southern 1: 260.000. 
 
 + The sections have the following number and outlines : 
 
 Sheet 1, No. 2525, The northern coasts from Hokianga on the west 
 
 to Tukukaka on the east. 
 Sheet 2, No. 2543, Monganui Bluff to Manukau on the West Coast, 
 
 and from Tukukaka to Major Island on the 
 
 East Coast. 
 
 Sheet 3, No. 2527, Major Island to Poverty Bay. 
 Sheet 4, No. 2521, Poverty Bay to Cape Palliser. 
 Sheet 5, No. 2054, Cook's Strait and Coast to Cape Egmont. 
 Sheet 6, No. 2535, Manukau Harbour to Cape Egmont. 
 Sheet 7, No. 2616, Cape Foulwind to D'Urville Island, including 
 
 Blind and Massacre Bays. 
 
 Sheet 8, No. 2529, Cape Campbell to Banks' Peninsula. 
 Sheet 9, No. 2532, Ninety Miles Beach to Otago. 
 Sheet 10, No. 2533, Otago to Mataura River and Paiapuke Island. 
 Sheet 11, No. 2553, Foveaux Strait and Stewart's Island. 
 Sheet 12, No. 2589, Foveaux Strait to Awarua Eiver. 
 Sheet 13, No. 2590, Awarua River to Abut Head. 
 Sheet 14, No, 2591, Abut Head to Cape Foulwind 
 (The price of each sheet is 2s. 6d. ) 
 
THE CHABTOGBAPIIY OF 2^EW ZEALAND. 7 
 
 Dashwood and Mitchell's tour from Nelson to Lyttelton, along 
 with a small map, appeared in the volume for 1851. J. T. 
 Thompson's account and map of what is now the Province of 
 Southland in the volume for 1858. E. Stanford published in. 
 London, in the year 1856, a map of the Province of Canter- 
 bury, showing freehold sections and .pasturage runs ; scale, 
 1:220.000. J. Arrowsmith published two editions of his map of 
 New Zealand on a scale of 1:2.400.000 one dated July, 
 1851, the other, July, 1858. 
 
 With the explorations and surveys of P. v. Hochstetter 
 and J. Haast (which were commenced in 1859, and are still 
 unfinished), began a new epoch in the geographical know- 
 ledge and chartography of New Zealand.* Not only have 
 their labours enlarged the existing knowledge, but they have 
 thrown quite a new light on the geological and topographical 
 condition of the interior, as hitherto the topographical con- 
 figuration of the country has been much neglected by the 
 colonial surveys. The general map of this work (Map I.), in 
 the completion of which Hochstetter's and Haast's observa- 
 tions have been used for the first time, will show at the first 
 glance how much our former conception of New Zealand is 
 enlarged and corrected. Of course, on it the observations of 
 many others also have been recorded. 
 
 The progress of the chartography of New Zealand is best 
 shown in the various editions of Arrowsmith's maps, of which 
 there are three 1841, 1851, and 1858 which were compiled 
 from official and other documents existing at those times. 
 The edition of 1841 contains nothing but a coast line, and this 
 very imperfect here and there an error of half a degree; 
 in the interior are only a few roughly noted lakes, rivers, and 
 mountains. In the edition of 1851 the coast, if yet incom- 
 plete, is corrected after the marine surveys, and the interior 
 is filled up. But the edition of 1858 contains many additions 
 
 * A report by Dr. J. Haast, Geologist of the Province of Canterbury, 
 dated 3rd of March, 1863, describes his latest travels and surveys of the 
 Southern Alps. This traveller had penetrated into the upper region of 
 the Molyneaux River, with its magnificent lakes Wanaka and Hawea, to 
 the West Goast, and discovered a pass through the chain of Alps at an 
 elevation of only 1,012 feet, between the Wanaka Lake and the Awarua 
 River. 
 
8 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 of importance. The most complete map published before ours 
 appeared in the Despatch Atlas, March, 18G1, in two sheets, 
 and at a scale of 1: 1.900.000 and 1: 2,300.000. 
 
 According to our map the area of New Zealand may be 
 estimated according to planimetric calculation, at 
 
 North Island... 20M'G German, or 43,400'9 Eng. sq. miles. 
 
 South Island... 2627'7 55,860'3 
 
 Stewart's Island 33'3 707'8 
 
 4702-6 99,969* 
 
 II. 
 
 LECTIJEE ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE PEOTINCE OF 
 AUCKLAND, 
 
 BY DE, F. YON HOCHSTETTER. 
 
 [Delivered to the Members of the Auckland Mechanics' Institute, June 24, 1859.] 
 
 MB. PRESIDENT, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, 
 
 The members of the Auckland Mechanics' Institute having 
 done me the honour to elect me as honorary member of their insti- 
 tution, and the Committee having invited me to give a Lecture 
 upon the Geology of this Province, I have much pleasure in 
 complying with their request. It is, however, with some 
 
 * From English sources the area and circumference of New Zealand 
 lias been estimated at 
 
 SURFACE. CIRCUMFERENCE OF COAST. 
 
 , Acres * Sq. Mls.-s r-Sea Miles-^ 
 
 North Island 31,174,400 48,710 1,500 
 
 Middle Island 46,126,860 72,072 1,500 
 
 Stewart's Island ... 1,152,000 1,800 120 
 
 78,452,480 122,582 3,120 
 
 The area of New Zealand is 50,000 acres less than the area of Great 
 Britain and Ireland ; the Northern Island is 1 -32nd smaller than England ; 
 the Middle Island is l-9th smaller than England and Scotland combined ; 
 50,000,000 acres, or 2-3rds, of which are estimated lit for agriculture ; the 
 rest is made up of impassable mountains, sand-flats, swamps, lakes, and 
 rivers. (Vide " New Zealand," by J. v. Hochstetter. ) 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF ATTCKLAKD. 9 
 
 hesitation that I undertake this task, feeling that my imperfect 
 knowledge of the English language will prevent my making the 
 short sketch I wish to lay before you as interesting as it might 
 otherwise have been. Notwithstanding this drawback, I am. 
 glad to have this opportunity of giving the inhabitants of this 
 Province, through the members of this Institute, such a resume 
 as I can of the chief results of the Geological Survey I have 
 made of those parts of the country I have visited. 
 
 T feel this, indeed, to be a duty I owe to the community at 
 large, in return for the very kind reception that has everywhere 
 been given me for the ready help that has always been afforded 
 by all whom I have met with and for the interest that has 
 been shown by all in the proceedings of the Imperial Austrian 
 (( Novara " Expedition. 
 
 Having, in the months of January and February, completed 
 my Survey, and finished a Geological Map, of the Auckland 
 District which I now have the pleasure of showing you the 
 necessity arose for my choosing either the Northern or the Southern 
 portion of the Province for my further researches, my limited 
 stay in New Zealand rendering it impossible, for me to make a 
 sufficient examination in both directions. 
 
 I did not hesitate to choose the Southern districts for these 
 reasons : that the country over which I should there proceed, is 
 inhabited almost exclusively by Maoris, and has hitherto been 
 almost unknown and totally unsurveyed, both topographically and 
 geologically. The Northern districts, on the contrary, are for 
 the most part better known, and from the number of European 
 settlers in them, I was led to hope I should be enabled to collect 
 some information through specimens forwarded to me for exami- 
 nation, and from the verbal descriptions of those who are well 
 acquainted with the various localities. 
 
 My hope was not unfounded in either respect. 
 
 I have received many specimens of interest from various 
 localities ; also some valuable information from different settlers, 
 and especially from my friends, the Rev. A. G. Purchas and Mr. 
 C. Heaphy, who in the last few months have had opportunities 
 of visiting several parts of the Northern portion of this Province, 
 and of collecting very valuable specimens. In addition to this 
 must be remembered the fact, that other scientific men, especi- 
 
10 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 ally MM. Dieffenbach and Dana, had already visited and 
 decribed at length some part* of the Northern country. 
 
 Through the liberality and excellent arrangements of the 
 General and Provincial Governments, T have been enabled in 
 a comparatively short time to travel over and to examine the 
 larger portion of the Province South of Auckland, extending 
 as far as Lake Taupo and Tongariro Volcano, the boundaries 
 between this Province arid those of Wellington and Hawke's 
 Bay. I have thus obtained materials which will enable me, on 
 my return to Europe, to construct a Topographical and Geolo- 
 gical Map of the central part of the Northern Island. 
 
 My observations have, with the able assistance of Mr. Drum- 
 mond Hay, extended from the East to the West Coast ; and the 
 numerous peaks and ranges have afforded facilities for fixing 
 with satisfactory accuracy, by means of magnetic bearings, on 
 the basis of points previously fixed by the nautical survey of 
 Capt. Drury on the coast-line, all the great natural features of 
 this portion of the country. A great number of barometrical 
 observations have afforded me the means of ascertaining the 
 heights of mountains and plains in the interior, which I shall 
 be able to calculate with accuracy by the aid of corresponding 
 daily observations, taken in Auckland by Colonel Mould, who 
 has kindly forwarded me a copy of his tables. 
 
 I have also obtained photographic and other views of great 
 interest, many of which were taken by the gentlemen who 
 accompanied me on the expedition for this purpose ; and a large 
 number of exceedingly valuable sketches have been contributed 
 by the talented pencil of our president, Mr. C. Heaphy, for 
 future publication in a geological atlas. Many of these are 
 decorating the walls and others are lying on the table, and I shall 
 be happy to show them to any ladies and gentlemen who may 
 feel any interest in seeing them, at the conclusion of the lecture. 
 
 My collections have been growing from day to day, and 
 include specimens of great interest in most branches of Natural 
 History. I owe a great deal to the indefatigable zeal of my 
 friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. J. Haast, who assisted me in 
 collecting during our expedition. I am also much indebted to 
 Mr. J. Crawford at Wellington, Mr. A. S. Atkinson of Tara- 
 naki, Mr. Triphook of Hawke's Bay, Mr. H. T. Kemp of the 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 11 
 
 Bay of Islands, to the Missionaries, and to almost innumerable 
 friends in Auckland. 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 I cannot suppose that all mj audience are acquainted with 
 the first principles of Geology. I shall therefore be under the 
 necessity, in order to make my report intelligible, of prefacing 
 a few remarks upon the chief divisions of the geological for- 
 mations. 
 
 The various rocks, soils, and minerals which occur upon the 
 surface of the earth, or at various depths beneath it in one 
 word, the materials of the " earth's crust" are classified, in the 
 first place, with reference to their different origin, or, in other 
 words, with reference to the different circumstances and causes 
 by which they have been produced. They are divided into four 
 great classes Plutonic, Metamorphic, Aqueous, and Volcanic 
 rocks. Another mode of classification is with reference to their 
 age that is, to the comparative periods of their formation. 
 Those divisions will be easily understood. 
 
 The Plutonic rocks comprehend all the granites, syenites, 
 porphyries, diorites rocks which agree in being highly crystalline, 
 unstratified, and destitute of organic remains which are con- 
 sidered as of igneous origin, formed in the earliest periods of the 
 earth, in great depths, and cooled and crystalised slowly under 
 great pressure. 
 
 The Metamorphic rocks are the crystalline strata, or schists, 
 called gneiss, mica-schist, or mica-slate, chlorite-schist, horn- 
 blende-schist also destitute of organic remains. According to 
 the most probable theory, these strata were originally deposited 
 from water in the usual form of sediment, but were subsequently 
 altered by subterranean heat, so as to assume a new texture. 
 
 The two first classes of rocks are usually found in such a 
 position that they form the foundation on which the aqueous 
 rocks were afterwards superimposed. For instance, they com- 
 pose the central line or a range of mountains, on both sides of 
 which sedimentary rocks are deposited. Thus, in reference to 
 their age, they are considered as the oldest, and are therefore 
 called also Primitive. 
 
 There are exceptions to this rule in reference to the age of 
 
12 THE GEOLOGT OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 certain pi atonic rocks of eruptive character. But I am now- 
 stating only general principles, and therefore avoid all questions 
 leading to scientific discussions. 
 
 The next in order are the Aqueous rocks the production of 
 watery action. They are also called sedimentary rocks, from the 
 fact that they are the hardened sediments accumulated at the 
 bottom of the sea or of fresh-water lakes. They are stratified, 
 or divided into distinct layers of strata : as, for example, clay- 
 slate, marl, sandstone, limestone, and are divided into three 
 kinds, called arenaceous or siliceous, argillaceous or clayey, and 
 calcareous or chalky according to the respective predominance 
 of silica, alumina, or lime. Hocks of this class cover a larger 
 part of the earth's surface than any others, and are of the greatest 
 interest on account of the organic remains which are found 
 imbedded in the different strata. 
 
 There are two principal means of ascertaining the relative age 
 of aqueous rocks derived, the one from their position, the other 
 from tlmefossil remains they contain. 
 
 With reference to position the bed which lies uppermost is 
 of course the newest of all, and that which lies at the bottom, 
 the most ancient. 
 
 "With reference to the fossils, it is not so easy to give an 
 explanation in few words ; but some idea may be formed from the 
 well-ascertained fact, that certain animals have existed for a 
 certain period, and then wholly disappeared and been succeeded 
 by other animals of a different species, which, in turn, have again 
 given place to others. 
 
 So, as Sir Charles Lyell truly says, " a series of sedimentary 
 formations is like volumes of history, in which each writer has 
 recorded the annals of his own times, and then laid down the 
 book with the last written page uppermost." And the organic 
 remains are, as Dr. Mantell beautifully expresses it, the " coins 
 of Creation," which give us the means of tracing the history of 
 the development of the organic kingdoms. 
 
 Thus, by superposition and by their organic remains, the 
 aqueous rocks are divided into groups forming, in reference to 
 their age, what is termed an " ascending series," or beginning 
 with the oldest, in the following manner : 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 13 
 
 1. Primary formations or periods 
 
 2. Secondary 
 
 3. Tertiary 
 
 4. Quartary 
 
 In reference to the word " quartary " I may explain that, 
 although it is not an English word, I take the liberty to use it 
 in the sense of " post tertiary," as following the analogy of the 
 other terms. 
 
 Each of those formations is again divided into numerous 
 minor systems, 011 which I have no time to enter. 
 
 The fourth and last great divisions of rocks are the volcanic 
 as Trachyte, Basalt, Breccia, and Tuff all produced by 
 supramarine or submarine volcanic eruption. It is ascertained 
 that the earliest true volcanic eruptions have occurred subse- 
 quently to the Secondary period, commencing in the Tertiary, 
 and continuing to the present time j and there is a marked dif- 
 ference between the older and the more recent eruptions. 
 
 I have prepared a diagram which will serve to impress these 
 first principles upon your memory, and so enable you to follow 
 me in the account I have to give : 
 
 Origin. 
 Plutonic and 
 Metamorphic rocks 
 
 Organic Remains. 
 No fossils. 
 
 Fossilferous. 
 
 DIAGRAM. 
 
 Age. 
 
 Primitive 
 formation. 
 
 S Primary. 
 Secondary. 
 J 
 Tertiary. 
 Quartary. 
 
 Volcanic., .. f Tradiytic. | No fowls. 
 
 ( Basaltic. j 
 
 "With these preliminary remarks, I now proceed to the main 
 subject of my lecture. 
 
 GEOLOGY OP THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 The first striking characteristic of the Geology of this Pro- 
 vince and probably of the whole of the Northern Island of New 
 Zealand is the absence of jhe primitive plutonic and metamor- 
 pliic formations, as granite, gneiss, mica-slate, and the like. I 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 
 
 have been informed by Mr. Heaphy that these rocks are of 
 wide-spread extent in the Middle Island, forming mountain 
 ranges of great altitude, covered with perpetual snow, and 
 reaching in Mount Cook probably to 13,000 feet. The rocka 
 of these formations contain the principal metallic riches of the 
 earth. Therefore we cannot hope to find these riches developed 
 in the highest degree in the Northern Island ; but as other 
 formations also contain metalliferous veins, there may be found 
 many mines worth working in the rocks I am about to describe, 
 
 I. PKIMARY FOEMATION. 
 
 The oldest rock I have met with in the Province of Auck- 
 land belongs to the primary formation. It is of very variable 
 character sometimes being more argillaceous, of a dark blue 
 colour (when decomposed, yellowish brown, the colour generally 
 presented on the surface,) and more or less distinctly stratified 
 like clay slate (at Maraitai on the Waitemata) ; at other times 
 the siliceous element preponderates, and, from the admixture of 
 oxide of iron, the rock 1ms a red, jasper-like appearance (at 
 Waiheki, Manganese Point.) In other localities it is more dis- 
 tinctly arenaceous, resembling the Old Sandstones of the Silurian 
 and Devonian Systems, called Grauwacke (at Taupo, on the 
 Hauraki Gulf.) 
 
 As no fossils have yet been found in this formation in New 
 Zealand, it is impossible to state the exact age ; I am, however, 
 of opiniorfthat these argillaceous siliceous rocks will be found to 
 correspond to the oldest Silurian strata of Europe. 
 
 The existence and great extent of tlds formation are of con- 
 siderable importance to this Province, as all the metalliferous 
 veins hitherto discovered, or likely to be hereafter found, occur 
 in rocks of this formation. 
 
 To these rocks belong the Copper-pyrites, which has been 
 worked for some years at the Kawau and Great Harrier the 
 Manganese (Psilomelan) at Waiheki and the Gold-bearing 
 quartz at Coromandel. 
 
 The gold which is washed out from beds of quartz-gravel in 
 the livers and creeks flowing down from both sides of Coro- 
 mandel range, is derived from quartz veins, of crystalline char- 
 acter and considerable thickness, running, in a general direction 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 15 
 
 from North to South, through the old primary rocks which 
 form the foundation of the Coromandel range. In some places 
 these veins stand up like a wall on the summit of the range to a 
 height of eight or ten feet. The clay-slate rock itself is exposed 
 only at the bottom of deep gorges which form the channels of 
 the principal streams. In almost all places it is covered by 
 large masses of trachytic tuff and breccia, of which the hills 
 surrounding the Harbour of Coromandel are composed. The 
 well-known " Castle Hill "which can be seen from Auckland 
 is a characteristic example of the Trachytic Breccia formation. 
 The magnetic iron-sand which, in washing, is found with the 
 gold, is derived from the same source as all the magnetic iron- 
 sand of New Zealand namely, from the decomposition of 
 trachytic rocks. Small veins of quartz of amorphous character 
 that is, not crystalline, but in the shape of chalcedony, cor- 
 nelian, agate, and jasper are found in numerous places on the 
 shores of Coromandel. These veins occurring in trachytic rocks, 
 are quite different from the auriferous quartz veins in the primary 
 formation a fact, I think, of much practical importance to 
 state, to prevent the fruitless search for gold where gold does 
 not exist. All the gold-bearing gravel in the creeks is derived, 
 as I have already said, not from the veins in the trachytic 
 breccia, but from the much thicker and crystalline veins in the 
 primary rocks. The surface-deposit in those creeks is veiy rich, 
 but, as compared with Australian and California!! gold-fields, of 
 limited extent and depth. I washed a few bucketsful of sur- 
 face earth, and gravel, at a creek pointed out to me by Mr. 
 Charles Heaphy, near Ring's Mill, at the Kapanga. Every 
 panful showed scales of thin gold, with small fragments of quartz 
 streaked and studded with veins and spangles of gold. These 
 " specimens/' as they are called by diggers, show no or very 
 little sign of being water-worn, but are sharp and crisp frag- 
 ments, as if they had been broken up on the spot, or in the 
 immediate vicinity. I think the quartz veins in the mountains 
 should be thoroughly examined, and that, when once the day 
 has come that the Coromandel gold-fields are worked, the atten- 
 tion of the " digger " should be directed as well to the hills 
 immediately above any rich deposits as to the alluvial workings 
 below. 
 
16 THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 
 
 The Coal Beds at Coromandel occurring between strata of 
 trachytic breccia are too thin to be of any value, and as the coal 
 formation is absent, there is no ground for hoping that a workable 
 seam may be found. 
 
 The primary formation occurs, to a more considerable extent, 
 to the eastward of Auckland, in ranges on both sides of the 
 Wairoa river attaining an altitude of 1,500 feet above the sea 
 and striking from thence northwards, over Waiheki and Kawau, 
 to the Bay of Islands. In a Southerly direction, they extend, 
 through the Hanyawera and Taupiri ranges, across the Waikato, 
 through the Halcarimata and Hauturu range parallel with 
 the West Coast to the Mokau district, where, at Wairere, 
 the Mokau river falls in a magnificent cascade over a lofty pre- 
 cipice of that rock. 
 
 The same formation occurs again in the Rangitoto mountain 
 on the Upper Waipa, and West of Taupo lake in the Tiihua 
 mountains. But the most extensive range of primary rocks is 
 that which commences near Wellington under the name of 
 Tararua and Ruawaliine, and runs in a north -easterly direction 
 to the east shore of Taupo lake, under the name of Kaimanawa, 
 in which rises the principal source of the Waikato there called 
 Tongariro river. The range continues from the shores of Taupo 
 lake, in a north-easterly direction, to the East Cape, under the 
 principal name of Teivhaiti. This lofty and extensive mountain 
 range the true backbone of the Northern Island with peaks 
 from 6000 to 7000 feet, is entirely unknown. In this range 
 the Plutonic and Metamorphic rocks, yet unknown in the Nor- 
 thern Island, may perhaps be found. 
 
 Nearly all the primary ranges are covered with dense virgin 
 forests, which render them extremely difficult of access. It must 
 be left to the labour and enterprise of future years to dis- 
 cover and develop the mineral riches, the existence of which 
 appears to be probable, not only from the geological characteris- 
 tics of the country, but also from some few specimens of Lead 
 and Copper ore that have from time to time been picked up by 
 the Natives. 
 
 It is remarkable that, while one of the oldest members of the 
 primary formation is found so extensively in New Zealand, the 
 later strata, as the Devonian, Carboniferous, and Permian sys- 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 17 
 
 terns, appear to be altogether wanting ; while, on the other 
 hand, in the neighbouring Continent of Australia these members 
 of the primary period, together with plutonic and metamorphic 
 rocks, constitute, so far as we know, almost the principal part 
 of the continent. 
 
 II. SECONDARY FORMATION. 
 
 A very wide interval occurs between the primary rocks of the 
 Northern Island and the next sedimentary strata that I met 
 with. Not only the upper members of the primary series are 
 absent, but also nearly the whole of the Secondary formations. 
 The only instance of secondary strata that I have met with con- 
 sists of very regular and highly-inclined beds of marl alternating 
 with micaceous sandstone, extending to a thickness of more 
 than 1000 feet which I first saw on the South head of the 
 Waikato, and afterwards met with on the western shore of 
 Kawhia harbour. 
 
 These rocks possess great interest from the fact that they 
 contain remarkable specimens of marine fossils, which belong 
 exclusively to the secondary period, especially Cephalopods of 
 the genera Ammonite and Belemnite, several species of Belem- 
 nite, all belonging to the family of the Canaticulati. These are 
 the first specimen of those genera which have been discovered in 
 the regions of Australasia. Both fossils have been known for 
 centuries by our ancestors in the Old World the Ammonite as 
 the horn of Jupiter Ammon, and the Belemnite as the bolts of 
 the God of Thunder. The latter, though now first seen in the 
 Antipodes by Europeans, have long been known to the Natives 
 of Kawhia by a much less dignified name the old warrior- 
 chief, Nuitone te PaJcaru, having told me that the stones I 
 prized so much and collected so greedily, are nothing more than 
 1 roke-kanae? which means the excrement of the fish commonly 
 known among the settlers by the name of mullet/ In reality, 
 the Belemnite belongs to a creature, long since extinct, which 
 was allied to the now living cuttle-fish. 
 
 Secondary rocks may probably be found in some other parts 
 of the West Coast, and occur, as I have been kindly informed by 
 the Rev. A. G. Purchas, in the Harbour of Hokianga but 
 everywhere of limited superficial extent. 
 
18 THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 
 
 III. TERTIARY FORMATIONS. 
 
 I proceed now to speak of the Tertiary period, strata of 
 which, of very various characters, occupy a large portion of the 
 Northern Island. The various tertiary strata are found for the 
 most part in a horizontal position a remarkable fact, from 
 which we may conclude that even the numerous volcanic erup- 
 tions which took place during and after the period of their 
 deposition, had not power enough to dislocate the whole system, 
 but merely to produce local disturbances. 
 
 The tertiary period must be divided into two distinct forma- 
 tions, which may perhaps correspond to the European Eocene 
 and Miocene. There is an older formation which is found 
 principally on the West Coast, and in the interior, on both sides 
 of the primary ranges, and a newer one which may be called the 
 Auckland Tertiary Formation. 
 
 You will probably be interested to have some more minute 
 description of the different strata of the older of these forma- 
 tions, as to this belong the Brown- Coal seams, to the discovery 
 of which I am indebted for the opportunity of investigating the 
 Geology of this Province, and on the intelligent working of 
 which I believe very much of the future welfare of this Province 
 depends. 
 
 The Brown-Goal Formation is of a very considerable extent, 
 both in the Northern and Middle Islands of New Zealand, and 
 is of similar character everywhere. 
 
 Some months ago I furnished a report on the Coalfield in the 
 neighbourhood of Auckland, in the Drury and Hunua districts, 
 of which I will repeat here the principal points. The Drury 
 coal belongs to a very good sort of brown coal to the so-called 
 GlanzJcolile, with conchoidal fracture. I was not able to con vince 
 myself of the existence of different series of seams, one above 
 the other, on different levels. I am much rather of opinion 
 that the same seam, disturbed at its level, occurs at the different 
 localities in the Drury and Hunua district, where coal is found. 
 The average thickness of that coal seam may be estimated to 
 amount to six feet. The section of the seam at Mr FallwelFs 
 farm can be taken as a fair average. 
 
 The seam consists there of three portions, the upper part a 
 laminated coal of inferior quality, one foot ; then a band of 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 19 
 
 shale, two inches ; the middle part coal of a good quality, one 
 and a half feet ; then a band of bituminous shale, six inches ; 
 the lowest part coal of the best quality T have seen, two and a 
 half feet. Thus the whole thickness of the coal itself may be 
 considered to amount to about five feet. The bituminous shale 
 accompanying the coal contains fossil plants, principally leaves 
 of Dicotyledones. It is remarkable that no fossil ferns are found 
 in connection with the Drury coal-beds ; it is the more so, as at 
 the other locality which I must mention on the West Coast, 
 seven miles from Waikato Heads only fossil ferns, in a most 
 beautiful state of preservation, are imbedded in gray argillaceous 
 strata, alternating with sandstone and small coal seams of 
 probably the same geological age as the Drury coal. A consi- 
 derable number of specimens from both localities will, by a 
 future examination, furnish the opportunity for determining the 
 principal features of the flora of the Brown Coal Period in New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The fossil gum found in the coal is a kind of " Retinite," 
 derived from a coniferous tree, perhaps related to the Kauri ; 
 but it is by no means identical with the Kauri Gum, which 
 is only found in the surface soil in those localities where 
 there have been kauri forests. The fossil gum and kauri 
 gum are very different in their qualities, as the most simple 
 experiments in their ignition will show. 
 
 The thickness of the forest and the inaccessability of the 
 country prevent our now ascertaining, in an exact manner, the 
 extent of the Drury coal-field. Still, the existing openings show 
 an extent of the coal-field quite large enough to encourage any 
 Company to work the coal in an extensive manner. 
 
 I am glad to hear that a Company, under the name of " The 
 Waihoihoi Mining and Coal Company" is formed, to begin the 
 working of this coal. 
 
 The same kind of coal I saw again on the northern slope of 
 Taupiri and Halcarimata range. At Kupalcupa, on the left 
 bank of the Waikato, I examined a beautiful seam about 150 
 feet above the level of the river. The thickness of the seam 
 then exposed was about 15 feet ; how much greater the thick- 
 ness may be it is impossible to say, as the floor has never been 
 uncovered. 
 
 c 
 
"20 THE UEOLOCiY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 This is tlic ijcain to which the attention of tlie inhabitants of 
 Auckland was directed several years ago by my friend the Rev. 
 A. G. Purclias. I believe several tons were at that time 
 brought to Auckland ; but owing to various circumstances tlie 
 chief of which was the Native ownership the hope of ob- 
 taining a supply from thence for Auckland was abandoned. No 
 better position could, however, be, found for mining purposes ; 
 and the day cannot be far distant when it svill be worked to 
 supply fuel for the steam navigation of the Waikato the main 
 artery of tltc Province of Auckland. 
 
 I have reason to believe that a Coal Field of considerable 
 extent exists on the borders of the wide plains on both sides of 
 the "Waikato, between Taupiri and Mangatawhiri for which 
 district, shut in on all sides by ranges, I propose the general 
 geographical name of " Tlie Lower Waikato Basin!' 
 
 A third coal-field exists on the Western and Southern 
 boundaries of the very fertile alluvial plains above the junction 
 of the Waipa and Waikato, which may be distinguished as 
 "The Middle Waikato Basin" the future granary of the 
 Northern portion of this Island. 
 
 The localities in which coal has been discovered are the fol- 
 lowing : in the Hohinipanga range, West of Karakariki on 
 the Waipa ; near Mohoauui and Waitaiheke, in the Hauturu 
 range on the upper branches of the Waipa ; and again in the 
 Whawharua and Parepare ranges on tlie Northern side of 
 Kangitoto mountains. 
 
 THE NEW ZEALAND BROWN COAL. 
 
 The following are the results of several analyses of speci- 
 mens of the Drury Brown Coal, sent to England some months 
 ago by Mr Turnbull. The analyses have been forwarded to me 
 by Mr Farmer : 
 
 Laboratory, Museum of Practical Geology, 
 
 Jermyn-st., London, April 13, 18-59. 
 
 Sir, I have completed the analyses of the coal (lignite) 
 which you left at the Museum, and herewith furnish you with 
 the results of the examination. 
 
 I am, Sir, yours obediently, 
 Brown, Esq CHAS. TOOKEY. 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 21 
 
 Percentage composition of Lignite, from Auckland. 
 
 Carbon t . ... 55'57 
 
 Hydrogen 4-13 
 
 Oxygen..,. 15-67 
 
 Nitrogen 1-15 
 
 Sulphur 0-36 
 
 Ash 9-00 
 
 Water 14-12 
 
 100-00 
 Coke 50-78 per cent. 
 
 The amount of sulphur is small, and this will be a point for 
 favourable consideration in. the application of the coal for 
 smelting purposes. The whole of the water is expelled at a 
 temperature of 1 20 centigrade. 
 
 Dundee Gas Works, 
 
 March 17, 1859. 
 Analysis of Auckland Coal. 
 
 Produce of gas per ton of coal carbonized, 9,632 cubic feet. 
 Illuminating power of gas, T75. 
 
 Durability : the length of time that a 4-inch jet requires to 
 consume a cubic foot of gas, 53 minutes. 
 Specific gravity, 495. 
 Produce of coke per ton, carbonized, 9 cwt. 
 
 (Signed) JOHN Z. KAY, 
 
 Engineer Gas Company. 
 
 Gas Works, Berwick, 
 
 March 12, 1859. 
 New Zealand Coal. 
 
 Gas, in cubic feet, per ton of coal, 7,617. 
 Coke, per ton of coal, in Ibs., 1,155. 
 Tar and ammoniacal liquor, per ton of coal, in Ibs., 571. 
 Value of gas, per ton of coal, in Ibs. of sperm, 384. 
 One cubic foot of gas, burned in a No. 2 fishtail burner (or 
 union set), equal sperm candles, 3'12. 
 
 Value of one cubic foot of gas, in grains of sperm, 374'40. 
 
 c 2 
 
22 THE GEOLOGY Olf AUCKLAND. 
 
 Coke, trable, retains the granular structure of the coal ; dis- 
 integrates when exposed to air ; during combustion gives out 
 little heat ; and leaves a large mass of stone-coloured ash ; 
 specific gravity, 1*471. 
 
 / Combustible matter ... 39 '25 
 
 Composition-/ Silica and alumina ... 54 -44 
 
 I Protoxide of iron 6 '3 1 
 
 100-00 
 
 This coal is well adapted for the purpose of gas manufacture ; 
 the quantity produced is not large, but you will observe of a 
 high quality, approaching several of the Scotch cannels in 
 illuminating power. 
 
 The coke is of very inferior quality for heating purposes ; but 
 the quantity of iron share found in it is so great that it may 
 possibly turn out to be a product of value. 
 
 JAMES PATTERSON, 
 
 Civil Engineer. 
 
 I subjoin comparative average analyses of three principal 
 kinds of fuel, from which it may be seen that the Drury coal 
 is precisely similar to the European brown coals in the propor- 
 tion of its three principal constituents : 
 
 Brown Black Coal 
 
 Wood. Coal. and Anthracite. 
 
 Carbon ... 51-4 to 52-6 
 Oxygen ... 43 42 
 Hydrogen 6 5-5 
 
 55 to 76 
 26 19 
 4-3 2-5 
 
 73 to 96-51 
 23 3 
 5-5 0-5 
 
 I embrace the opportunity of saying a few words on the 
 commercial value and applicability of the New Zealand Brown 
 Coal 
 
 Although of entirely different character, and, generally 
 speaking, of inferior value, to the older coals of the Primary for 
 mation, I cannot see any reason why this kind of coal should 
 not be used in New Zealand for the same purpose as a similar 
 brown coal is extensively applied to in various parts of Europe, 
 and particularly in Germany, where it supplies the fuel for 
 manufactures of all kinds, for locomotives and steamers, and for 
 domestic purposes. I am perfectly familiar with this kind of 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 23 
 
 coal, and can assure the people of Auckland, that the Brown 
 Coal of this country is quite as good as that which is used in 
 Germany for the pu rposes I have j ust mentioned. I would strongly 
 recommend that any Company which may be formed for the 
 purpose of working the coal should also at the same time 
 establish Potteries for the manufacture of earthenware. 
 Remarkably suitable Clays of every necessary variety have been 
 shown to exist in the immediate neighbourhood of the coal-fields, 
 by the borings which have been made by the Provincial 
 Government at my request.* By the establishment of such 
 works, the value of the coal would be made apparent to every- 
 
 * The following are the results of two borings made in the flats between 
 Drury Hotel and the Drury Ranges, under the directions of Mr. Ninnis, 
 to whom I am indebted for the tables subjoined: 
 
 BORING No. I. 
 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Inch. 
 
 
 1) 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 Dark soil. 
 
 2) 
 3) 
 
 9. 
 
 1. 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 Plastic clay, yellow and bine. 
 Gravel and pebbles. 
 
 4) 
 
 1. 
 
 . 
 
 Yellow clay. 
 
 5) 
 
 3. 
 
 
 
 Grey clay. 
 
 6) 
 
 6. 
 
 
 
 Blue clay. 
 
 7) 
 
 11. 
 
 
 
 Arenaceous clay. 
 
 8) 
 
 15. 
 
 
 
 Grey clay. 
 
 9) 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 Greenish clay. 
 
 10) 
 
 1. 
 
 
 
 Dark grey clay. 
 
 11) 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 Bhiish grey clay. 
 
 12) 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Sandy clay. 
 
 13) 
 
 5.' 
 
 2 
 
 Volcanic ashes and gravel. 
 
 14) 
 
 5. 
 
 6 
 
 Hard basaltic rock. " 
 
 
 69. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 BORING 
 
 No. II. 
 
 1) 
 
 1. 
 
 
 
 Dark soil. 
 
 2) 
 
 7. 
 
 
 
 Yellow clay. 
 
 3) 
 
 G. 
 
 G 
 
 White clay. 
 
 4) 
 
 7. 
 
 
 
 Yellow and red clay 
 
 5) 
 
 1. 
 
 4 
 
 Brown clay. 
 
 6) 
 
 8. 
 
 
 
 Yellow clay. 
 
 7) 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 Brown. 
 
 8) 
 
 4. 
 
 
 
 Reddish. 
 
 9) 
 
 10. 
 
 
 
 Brown. 
 
 10) 
 
 4. 
 
 6 
 
 Gravel and Volcanic ashes. 
 
 11) 
 
 9. 
 
 6 
 
 Hard basaltic rocks. 
 
 63. 10 
 
 Of these I would draw attention to No. I., 2, for common pottery; No. 
 I., 6 and 8, for fine stoneware ; No. I., 7, for firebricks. The various 
 coloured clays, No. II., 2 to 9, will be applicable to every kind of pottery. 
 No. II., 8, may be used as a colour or pigment in the same way as ochre 
 and umber are generally used. 
 
24 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 body, and the manufacture itself, if properly conducted, cannot 
 fail to be remunerative. It may be interesting to you to know 
 that the far-famed " Bohemian Porcelain" is burned by means of 
 brown-coal, from a seam of, in some places, 90 feet thickness. 
 While stating the uses to which brown coal may be applied, 
 I must warn you against thinking that it is suitable for steamers 
 having to make long sea voyages. The bulky nature of the 
 " brown-coal" will always prevent such steamers taking it on 
 board when they can procure " Mack-coal." But, on the 
 other hand, its qualities as a gas-producing coal, as the abovo 
 analyses show, will render it valuable as an article of export. 
 
 I now come to another series of the older Tertiary strata, 
 examples of which are found occurring in great regularity on 
 the West Coast from Waikato to Kawhia. The lowest are 
 argillaceous the middle, calcareous the upper, arenaceous. 
 
 The characteristics of the first clayey strata are, a light grey 
 colour, very few fossils, small crystals of iron pyrites and 
 glauconitic grains, which give these clay marls a similarity to 
 the Gault and Green sands of the Cretaceous formation in 
 Europe. They aie found on the Eastern branches of 
 Whaingaroa, Aotea, and Kawhia harbours. 
 
 Of greater interest and importance are the calcareous strata, 
 consisting of tabular limestone, sometimes of a conglomerate 
 nature, sometimes more crystalline, the whole mass of which is 
 formed of fragments of shells, corals, and foraminiferce, 
 interspersed with perfect specimens of terebratulee, oysters and 
 pectens, and other shells. This limestone, when burned, makes 
 excellent lime, and may be wrought and polished for 
 architectural purposes. 
 
 The beds of Limestone worked by Messrs. Smith and Cooper, 
 in the Wairoa district, belong to this formation, as do also the 
 rich fossiliferous strata from the Waikato Heads towards 
 Kawhia Harbour. 
 
 Picturesque columnar rocks of the same nature, looking 
 almost as if they were artificially built of tabular blocks, adorn 
 the entrance to Whaingaroa Harbour ; and the romantic 
 limestone scenery, and the fine Caves of the Rakaunui river a 
 branch of Kawhia Harbour are deservedly prized by the 
 settlers of Kawhia Harbour. 
 
THE (iKOLOGT OF AUCKLAND. 25 
 
 The Limestone Formation attains its greatest thickness (from 
 400 to 500 feet) in the Upper Waipa and Mo/cau district, 
 between the Raugitoto range and the West Coast. It has in 
 this country many remarkable features. 
 
 No one can enter without admiration the Stalactite Caves of 
 Tana-uri-uri at Hangatiki, and of Pariancwaneica near the 
 sources of the Waipa the former haunts of the gigantic J/ca. 
 
 I went into those caves in the hope of meeting with a rich 
 harvest of Moa skeletons, but I was sadly disappointed, those 
 who had been before me in the days of Moa enthusiasm having 
 carried off every vestige of a bone. Great, however, A>ra.s my 
 labour, and not little my satisfaction, in dragging out the 
 head-less and leg-less skeleton of a Moa from, beneath the dust 
 and filth of an old raupo hut ! The Maoris, seeing the greedi- 
 ness with which the " pakehas" hunted after old Moa bones, 
 have long since carefully collected all they could find, and 
 deposited them in some safe hiding-place waiting for the oppor- 
 tunity of exchanging them for pieces of gold and silver, showing 
 thus how well they have learned the lesson taught them by the 
 example of the " pakeha," 
 
 The subterranean passages of the riverain the Pehiope&nd Mairoa 
 district are highly characteristic of the limestone formation. 
 The limestone rocks, fissured and channeled, are penetrated by 
 the water, and the streams run below the limestone upon the 
 surface of the argillaceous strata, which I have before mentioned 
 as underlying the limestone. This also explains the scarcity of 
 water on the limestone plateau which divides the sources of the 
 Waipa and Mokau rivers. The plateau is covered with a 
 splendid growth of grass, and woidd form an excellent cattle 
 run but for the deep funnel-shaped holes which everywhere 
 abound. The Natives call them " tomo." They are similar to 
 the holes which occur in the limestone downs in England, and 
 on the Karst mountains on the shores of the Adriatic Gulf, where 
 they are called " dolines" 
 
 The third and uppermost stratum of the older tertiary 
 formation consists of beds of fine fossiliferous sandstone, in 
 which quarries of good building stone may be found. There 
 are whole ranges parallel to the primary mountains which seem 
 to consist of this sandstone. T will mention only the Tapni- 
 
26 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 wliane range, about 2000 feet above the level of the sea, in which 
 is the pass from the Mokau to the Whanganui country. 
 
 Without a map on a large scale, which I have had no time to 
 prepare, it would be useless to enter more minutely now into a 
 description of the various localities in which the different 
 formations occur. I may, however, mention that limestone and 
 brown-coal have been found in places to the North of Auckland, 
 in the districts from Cape Rodney to the North Cape. 
 
 The horizontal beds of sandstone and marls which form the 
 cliffs of the Waitemata, and extend in a Northerly direction 
 towards Kawau, belong to a newer tertiary formation, and, 
 instead of coal, have only thin layers of lignite. A characteristic 
 feature of this Auckland tertiary formation is the existence of 
 beds of volcanic ashes, which are here and there inters tratified 
 with the ordinary tertiary layers. 
 
 I must say no more on the tertiary sedimentary formations, 
 in order that I may leave some time to devote to the volcanic 
 formations, which, from their great extent and the remarkable 
 and beautiful phenomena connected with them, render the 
 Northern Island of New Zealand, and especially the Province 
 of Auckland, one of the most interesting parts of the world. 
 
 VOLCANIC FORMATIONS AND PHENOMENA. 
 
 Lofty trachytic peaks covered with perpetual snow, a vast 
 number of smaller volcanic cones presenting all the varied 
 characteristics of volcanic systems, and a long line of boiling 
 springs, fumaroles, and solfataras, present an almost unbounded 
 field of interest, and, at the same time, succession of magnificent 
 scenery. 
 
 It is only through a long series of volcanic eruptions, 
 extending over the tertiary and post-tertiary periods, that the 
 Northern Island has attained its present form. It would be 
 a difficult task to point out the ancient form of the antipodean 
 Archipelago the site of which is now occupied by the Islands of 
 New Zealand. I must confine myself to a simple indication of 
 the events which have given this country the form it was found 
 to have by the South Sea Islanders on their arrival, many 
 centuries ago, from the Samoan group a form in all main 
 respects the same as is now before our eyes. 
 
THE GEOLOaY OF AUCKLAND. 27 
 
 The first volcanic eruptions were submarine, consisting of vast 
 quantities of trachytic lava, breccia, tuff, obsidian, and pumice- 
 stone, which flowing over the bottom of the sea, formed an 
 extensive submarine volcanic plateau. The volcanic action 
 continuing, the whole mass was upheaved above the level of the 
 sea, and new phenomena were developed. The eruptions going 
 on in the air instead of under the sea, lofty cones of trachytic 
 and phoiiolithic lava, of ashes and cinders, were gradually formed. 
 These eruptions, breaking through the original submarine layers 
 of trachytic lava, breccia, and tuff, raised them, and left them, 
 as we now find them, forming a more or less regular belt 
 round the central cones, and having a slight inclination from the 
 centre outwards. These belts I shall have occasion to- refer to 
 under the name of " tuff-craters" or " cones of tuffs" or "craters 
 of elevation" In the course of time the volcanic action 
 decreased, and we must now imagine that tremendous earth- 
 quakes occurred that parts of the newly formed crust gave way 
 and fell in, forming vast chasms and fissures, which are now 
 occupied by the lakes, hot springs, and solfataras. 
 
 Thus we now find in the central part of the Northern Island 
 an extensive volcanic plateau of an elevation of 2,000 feet, from 
 which rise two gigantic mountains, Tongariro and RuapaJm. 
 They are surrounded by many smaller cones, as Pihaiiga, 
 Kakaramea, Kaharua, Rangitukua, Puke Onake, Hauhanga. 
 The natives have well named these latter, " the wives and 
 children of the two giants Tongariro and Ruapahu ; " and they 
 have a legend to the effect, that a third giant, named Taranaki, 
 formerly stood near these two but quarrelling with his com- 
 panions about their wives, was worsted in combat, and forced 
 to fly to the West Coast, where he now stands in solitary 
 grandeur, the magnificent snow-capped beacon of Mount 
 Egmont (8,270). These are the three principal trachytic cones 
 of the Northern Island. 
 
 By far the grandest and loftiest of the three is RuapaJm, 
 whose truncated cone, standing on a basis of about 25 miles in 
 diameter, attains a height of 9,000 to 10,000 feet above the level 
 of the sea about 3,000 feet of which is covered with glaciers 
 and perpetual snow. Ruapahu, like Taranaki, is extinct. 
 Tongariro alone can be said to be active. I was enabled to 
 
28 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 distinguish five craters on Tongariro, three of which are to a 
 certain extent active. Steam is always issuing from them, and 
 the natives state that from the principal crater, called Ngaitrulioe, 
 on the top of the highest cone of eruption (7,500), occasional 
 eruptions of black ashes and dust take place, accompanied with 
 loud subterranean noises. I may remark, that the shape of the 
 cone is changing, the western side, for instance, having, during 
 the great earthquake at Wellington, in 1854, fallen in, so that 
 the interior of the crater is now visible from the higher points 
 in the Tuhua district on the Upper Whanganui. The 
 remarkable fact, that snow does not rest upon some of the upper 
 points of the Tongariro system, while the lower ones are covered 
 all the winter through, shows that those parts are of a high 
 temperature. 
 
 I had no opportunity myself of ascending Tongariro, but I 
 have met with the following interesting account of an ascent of 
 the highest cone of eruption by Mr H. Dyson, which was com- 
 municated to i\\Q New Zealander\)j A. S. Thomson, M.D. : 
 
 Mr. Dyson's Account of his Ascent of Tongariro. 
 " In the month of March, 1851, a little before sunrise, I 
 commenced my ascent alone, from the north-western side of the 
 Rotoaire lake. I crossed the plain and ascended the space to 
 the northward of the Whanganui river. Here I got into a valley 
 covered with large blocks of scoria, which made my progress 
 very difficult. At the bottom of the valley runs the Whanganui 
 river. After crossing the river, which at this place was then 
 not more than a yard broad, I had to ascend the other side of 
 the valley, which, from the unequal nature of the ground, was 
 very tedious, and I kept onwards as straight as I could for the 
 top of the mountain. At last I came to the base of the cone, 
 around which there were large blocks of scoria which had evi- 
 dently been vomited out of the crater, and had rolled down the 
 cone. The most formidable part of my journey lay yet before 
 me, namely, the ascent of the cone, and it appeared to me from 
 the position where I stood that it composed nearly one-fourth 
 of the total height of the mountain. I cannot say at what 
 angle the cone lies, but I had to crawl up a considerable por- 
 tion of it on my hands and feet, and as it is covered with loose 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 29 
 
 cinders and ashes, I often slid down again several feet. There 
 was no snow on the cone of the mountain, unless in some cre- 
 vices to which the sun's rays did not penetrate. There was not 
 on the cone any vegetation, not even the long wiry grass which 
 grows in scanty patches up to the very base of the cone. The 
 ascent of the cone took me, I should think, four hours at least ; 
 but as I had 110 watch, it is possible from the laborious occupa- 
 tion I was at, that the ascent of the cone looked longer than it 
 was. But whether it was three or four hours I was clambering 
 up the cone I recollect I hailed with delight the mouth of the 
 great chimney up which I had been toiling. The sun had just 
 begun to dip, and I thought it might be about 1 p.m., so that I 
 had ascended the mountain from the Rotoaire lake in about 
 eight hours. I must confess, as I had scarcely any food with 
 me, that I kept pushing on at a good pace. On the top 01 
 Tongariro I expected to behold a magnificent prospect, but the 
 day was now cloudy, and 1 could see no distance. The crater is 
 nearly circular, and from afterwards measuring with the eye a 
 piece of ground about the same size, I should think it was six 
 hundred yards in diameter. The lip of the crater was sharp : 
 outside there was almost nothing but loose cinders and ashes ; 
 inside of the crater there were large overhanging rocks of a pale 
 yellow colour, evidently produced by the sublimation of sulphur. 
 The lip of the crater is not of equal height all round, but I think 
 I could have walked round it. The southern side is the highest, 
 and the northern, where I stood, the lowest. There was no 
 possible way of descending the crater. I stretched out my neck 
 and looked down the fearful abyss which lay gaping before me, 
 but my sight was obstructed by large clouds of steam or vapour, 
 and I don't think I saw thirty feet down. I dropped into the 
 crater several large stones, and it made me shudder to hear some 
 of them rebounding as I supposed from rock to rock of some 
 of the stones thrown in I heard nothing. There was a low 
 murmuring sound during the whole time I was at the top, such 
 as you hear at the boiling springs at Eotomahana and Taupo, 
 and which is not unlike the noise heard in a steam engine room 
 when the engine is at work. There was no eruption of water 
 or ashes during the time I was there, nor was there any appear- 
 ance that there had been one lately. T saw no lava which had 
 
30 THE GEOLOC4T OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 a recent appearance ; notwithstanding all this, I did not feel 
 comfortable where I stood iri case of an eruption. The air was not 
 co ld the ascent had made me hot but I had time to cool, for 
 I remained at the crater nearly an hour. At about 2 p.m. I 
 commenced my descent by the same way that I ascended. A fog 
 or cloud passed over where I was, and caused me to lose my 
 way for a short time. When descending I saw between Tonga- 
 riro and Ruapahu a lake about a mile in diameter. I could see 
 no stream flowing out of it on the western side. An extinct 
 crater may also be seen near the base of Tongariro. It was 
 almost dark before I reached the Whanganui river, and, 
 although in strong condition and a good walker, I felt com- 
 pletely done up, and I fell asleep in a dry water-course. The 
 night was cold, but I slept soundly until daylight, when I im- 
 mediately rose and continued my descent, and at 10 a.m. I 
 reached my residence at Rotoaire, with the shoes almost torn 
 off my feet." 
 
 As far as I can learn, Mr Dyson, in 1851, and Mr Bidwell, in 
 1839, are the only Europeans who have ascended the highest 
 cone of Tongarim 
 
 The difficulty of ascending Tongariro is still the same as when 
 Dr Thomson published the foregoing account. " It does," he 
 says, " not entirely arise from its height, or the roughness of 
 the scoria, but from the hostility of the natives, who have made 
 the mountain ' tapu/ or sacred, by calling it the backbone and 
 head of their great ancestor. All travellers who have asked 
 permission of the natives to ascend Tongariro, have met witli 
 indirect refusals. The only way to get over this difficulty is, to 
 ascend the mountain unknown to the natives of the place, or 
 even your own natives. Mr Dyson did this, but his ascent was 
 discovered by a curious accident. During his progress up the 
 mountain, he took for a time the little frecpiented path which 
 leads along the base of Tongariro to Whanganui. A native 
 returning from that place observed his footmarks, and knew 
 them to be those of a European. As he saw where the foot- 
 steps left the path, he, on his arrival at Rotoaire, proclaimed 
 that a European was now wandering about alone on the sacred 
 mountain of Tangariro. The natives immediately suspected it 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 31 
 
 was Mr Dyson, and they went to his house, waited his return, 
 and took several things from him. He was now a suspected 
 man, and his conduct was watched." 
 
 The second active crater of the Tongariro system, at the top 
 of a lower cone north of JSgauruhoe, is called Ketetalii. Ac- 
 cording to the natives, the first eruption of this crater took 
 place simultaneously with the Wellington earthquake of 1854. 
 From Taupo Lake I saw large and dense volumes of steam, 
 larger than those from Ngauruhoe, emerging from the Ketetahi 
 crater. The third active point on the Tongariro system is a great 
 soliktaraon the north-western slope of the range. The hot 
 sulphurous springs of that solfatara are often visited by the 
 natives on account of the relief they experience in respect to 
 their cutaneous diseases. 
 
 A grand impression is made upon the traveller by those two 
 magnificent volcanic cones Ruapahu, shining with the bril- 
 liancy of perpetual snow Tongariro, with its black cinder- 
 cone capped with a rising cloud of white steam ; the two 
 majestic mountains standing side by side upon a barren desert of 
 pumice (called by the natives, One-tapu), and the whole reflected, 
 as by a mirror, by the waters of Lake Taupo. 
 
 LAKE TAUPO is about 28 English miles long, and 20 broad. 
 This lake is surrounded by elevated pumice-stone plateaus, 
 about 2000 feet above the sea, and 700 feet above the lake. 
 The Waikato River, taking its rise from Tongariro, flows through 
 the lake, traversing the pumice-stone plateaus on either side. 
 In accordance with the names I have already proposed for the 
 Middle and Lower Waikato Plains, the Taupo Country will 
 form the " Upper Waikato Basin" 
 
 It is one of the most characteristic features in the structure of 
 the Northern Island, that, from the shores of Taupo Lake, an 
 almost level pumice-stone plain -called Kaingaroa Plain 
 stretches at the foot of the East Cape range, with a very 
 gradual descent to the coast between Whakatane and Matata 
 a plain which, though now presenting a sterile appearance, 
 will, I hope, at no distant day, be converted into fine grassy 
 plains, capable of supporting large flocks of sheep. 
 
 In a similar way, a higher volcanic plateau, consisting of 
 trachytic tuff and breccia, and various other volcanic rocks, 
 
82 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAKD. 
 
 stretches in a more northerly direction to the East Coast, 
 between Maketu and Tauranga, the farthest extremities of 
 which reach even to the Auckland District. On one side of 
 Hauraki Gulf, the Coromandel range is covered with trachytic 
 breccia, and again, on the West Coast, the same rock forms the coast- 
 range from Manuka/ft to Kaipara, This extensive plateau is 
 intersected by many deep valleys, the sides of which are 
 characterised by a succession of remarkable terraces. The same 
 plateau is also broken in many places by more or less regular 
 trachytic cones from 1000 to 3000 feet high. That you may 
 become acquainted with the geological character of such moun- 
 tains, I will mention several examples, the names of which are 
 well known amongst European settlers. To this class of moun- 
 tains belong Karioi on the West Coast, near Whaingaroa, 
 fironr/ia on the Waipa, the regular cone of ISJakepuku between 
 the Waipa and the Waikato, Maimgataiitari on the Waikato, 
 AroJta 011 the Waihou, PtitauaJcl or Mount Edgecombe on the 
 East Coast, and many others. The only active mountain which 
 belongs to this class is WhaJcari or White Island, in the Bay of 
 Plenty, a solfatara like the active crater of Tonga-lire. 
 
 Mr. David Burn, in his account of " A Trip to the East 
 Cape," says : 
 
 "In about an hour after passing Flat Island, the snowy 
 vapour upon White Island began to be discernible. By 1 p.m. 
 we were in immediate contiguity with this remarkable island, 
 passing quite close to its southern extremity. As we made our 
 gradual approach, its aspect was of the most singular description. 
 Except on its northern point, to which the sulphurous vapour 
 does not seem to reach, it is utterly destitute of vegetation ; 
 there are patches of growing underwood ; but in every other 
 direction, the island is bald, bleak, and furrowed into countless 
 deep-woin ravines. After we had passed it a short distance to 
 the eastward, the capacious basin of the crater, with its nume- 
 rous geysers roaring and raging, exposed its sulphurous bosom 
 to our eyes and nostrils. If the outer and western sides of 
 White Island be blank and furrowed, its inner circle is chased, 
 as it were, in a rare and picturesque manner the sides of the 
 hills, from their lofty mountain summits to the base, being 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 33 
 
 conibed into innumerable longitudinal ridges of a floresceut 
 bronze of brilliant and variegated line. 
 
 "Of tins island, Captain Drmy, of H. M.S. Pandora, gives 
 the following description in the ' New Zealand Pilot ; : 
 
 " ' White Island, or Whakari, is about three miles in circum- 
 ference, and 800 feet high. The base of the crater is one and a 
 half miles in circuit, and level with the sea. In the centre is a 
 boiling spring about 100 yards in circumference, sending volumes 
 of steam full two thousand feet high in calm weather. Around 
 the edges of the crater are numberless smaller geysers sounding 
 like so many high-pressure engines, and emitting steam with 
 such velocity that a stone thrown into the vortex would imme- 
 diately be shot in the air. 
 
 " ' Here and there are lakes of sulphurous water, dormant ; 
 but the whole island is so heated as to make it difficult to walk. 
 From the edges of the crater to the scene below is only to be 
 compared to a well-dressed meadow of gorgeous green, with 
 meandering streams feeding the boiling cauldron ; but on 
 approaching, we find this green to be the purest crystallised 
 sulphur. 
 
 " ' No animal or insect breathes on this island, scarcely a limpet 
 on the stones, and 200 fathoms will hardly reach the bottom 
 within half a mile of its shores/ 
 
 " Being under the lee of the island and in smooth water, 
 Captain Bowden, in the most obliging manner, hove the steamer 
 to, and lowering one of the quarter boats, conveyed us on shore to 
 enjoy a personal inspection of this grand natural curiosity. 
 There are two spots at which a landing may be effected, at the 
 openings of the outer base of the crater ; by a very little exer- 
 tion in clearing away some of the boulders, the landing may be 
 rendered perfectly easy ; but although, this day, the water was 
 smooth, still there was such a swell that judgment and caution 
 were requisite to pick out a spot where best to escape the 
 rollers that tumbled on the rough and broken beach. 
 
 " Never shall we forget the grand displays which we beheld in 
 this sulphurous caldron. Its paintings fresh from Nature's 
 hand its lake of gorgeous green its roaring jets of stormy 
 vapour are things to be witnessed, difficult to be described ; 
 but surpassing all these, and as if their central attraction, there 
 
34 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 was a fountain, seemingly of molten sulphur, in active play, 
 which shot a column of wide-spreading green, and gold into the 
 scorching atmosphere. The beauty of this fountain was sur- 
 passing, and we were under the impression, that from its 
 energy, the volcano was more than commonly active in its 
 workings. We were very circumspect in our approaches, as 
 the surface in places was soft and yielding, and we knew not to 
 what brimstone depths an unwary step might sink us. Our 
 difficulty in walking, therefore, arose less from the heat, though 
 that in places was great, than from the apprehension of sinking 
 too far in the soft crustaceous surface, from which diminutive 
 spouts of vapour would spit forth as if to resent our intrusion. 
 Whenever we thought the ground at all doubtful, we sounded 
 our way by hurling large stones to see what impression they would 
 make, and we adventured or avoided proceeding accordingly. 
 
 " Time, to our great regret, would not admit of a minute 
 exploration, but all the grand features of the island had passed 
 under view. We looked in vain for the gorgeous meadow 
 described by Capt. Drury ; but we had only to enlarge any of the 
 numberless miniature vapour holes to obtain pure crystallised 
 sulphur hot from tlie bakery, and at the same time to convert these 
 holes into more active vapour jets. The streams that issued in 
 various directions were of boiling heat, limpid and tasteless ; but, 
 though sulphur was everywhere strewn around, it did not appeal' 
 to be in quantities sufficient for shipment. After an hour's 
 stop, we returned to our ship greatly delighted with the visit, 
 and much indebted to our obliging captain for having put it in 
 our power to enjoy it." 
 
 Mr. Heaphy has kindly furnished me with a map and views 
 of this singularly interesting island. 
 
 If we take a wider view of the geological features and the 
 physical outline of these just described high plains and plateaus 
 consisting of regular layers of trachytic rocks, breccia, and tuff) 
 we shall find that the steep cones of Ruapahu and Tongariro 
 rise from the centre of a vast tuff cone of extremely gradual 
 inclination, the basis of which occupies the whole country from 
 shore to shore from East to West having a diameter of 100 
 sea miles, and forming the largest cone of t tiffs, or in other words, 
 the largest crater of elevation, in the whole world. 
 
THE OEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 35 
 
 The Hot Springs. 
 
 Intimately acquainted with the described volcanic pheno- 
 mena of the active and extinct volcanic mountains, are the 
 Solfataras, Fumaroles, and Hot Springs. They are found in a 
 long series, stretching across the country in a N.N.E. direction, 
 from the active crater Ngauruhoe in the Tongariro system, to 
 the active crater of White Island (Whakari). They occupy the 
 chasms and fissures to which I have already referred. 
 
 There is only one other place in the world in which such a 
 number of hot springs are found that have periodical outbursts 
 of boiling water that is, in Iceland, the well-known geysers of 
 which are of precisely similar character to those in New Zealand. 
 The geysers or boiling fountains of Iceland, long celebrated for 
 possessing this property in an extraordinary degree, have, 
 indeed, strong rivals in the puias and nyawJms of New Zealand. 
 Although there may be no single intermittent spring in New 
 Zealand of equal magnitude with ^the great geyser in Iceland, 
 yet in the extent of country in which such springs occur, in the 
 immense number of them, and in the beauty and extent of 
 the siliceous incrustations and deposits, New Zealand far exceeds 
 Iceland. 
 
 In enumerating the principal of this phenomena, we may 
 begin with 
 
 1. The active craters of Tonyariro, which are at present in the 
 condition of solfataras that may be called the state of repose of 
 active craters, and with the hot springs rising on the slope and 
 at the base of that mountain. . 
 
 2. We then pass on to the Tokanii and Terapa springs on the 
 Southern extremity of the Taupo lake. The principal " puia " 
 at Tokanu is called Pirori, an intermittent fountain whose; 
 column of boiling water, of two feet in diameter, sometimes 
 reaches a height of more than 40 feet. 
 
 3. On the opposite side of Taupo, at the Northern extremity 
 <>i the lake, we again meet with hot springs, and with a river of 
 warm water called Waipahihi, which, rising in the extinct 
 volcanic cone of Tauhara, falls, in a vapour-crowned cascade, 
 into Taupo. 
 
 4. Descending from Taupo by the outlet of the Waikato, we 
 lind, 011 the left bank, in the midst of a great number of pools of 
 
 D 
 
36 THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 
 
 boiling mud, a fumarolc called JZarapiti, an cmonuous jet of 
 high-pressure steam, escaping with such force as to produce a 
 sound like letting-off the steam from huge boilers, and as to eject 
 to a great height sticks, or the like, thrown in by the curious 
 traveller. On the right bank is another fumarole of similar 
 character, called Paralciri. 
 
 5. About twenty-five miles below the outlet of the Waikato 
 from Taupo, at the " pa " Orakei-lmrako, both banks of the 
 rapidly-flowing river are perforated, in more than a hundred 
 different places, by fumaroles and boiling springs, most of which 
 are of the intermittent kind ; and siliceous incrustations of 
 beautiful colours decorate the banks of the river. Temini-a- 
 Ilomaiterangi the principal geyser throws up its large column 
 of boiling water at intervals of about two hours to a height from 
 20 to 30 feet. An immense volume of stearn succeeds the jet, 
 and the water then suddenly sinks into the basin. 
 
 6. At Orakei-korako the line of hot springs crosses the Wai- 
 kato, and continues along the foot of the very remarkable Pai- 
 roa range on the Easterly side of the "Waikato. The almost 
 perpendicular Western side of this range is caused by an 
 immense "fault" in the volcanic plateau, corresponding to a deep 
 fissure in the earth -crust, from which sulphureous acid, sulphur- 
 etted hydrogen, sulphur and steam, are continually escaping, 
 while huge bubbles of ash-coloured mud are rising 011 the 
 surface. 
 
 7. From the same range, the warm-water river Waikitc takes 
 its origin. On both sides are deep pools of boiling water, on 
 the margins of which we discovered most beautiful ferns, hitherto 
 unknown, one species belonging to the genus Neplirolepis, the 
 other to the genus Groneoptcris. These ferns are remarkable 
 not only for their elegance, but alsojfrom the peculiar circum- 
 stances under which they exist, as they are always surrounded 
 by an atmosphere of steam. 
 
 8. We now come to the well-known ROTOMAHANA, the most 
 wonderful of all the wonders of the Hot Springs district of New 
 Zealand. I will not attempt to describe in a hasty lecture like 
 this the beauties of this Fairy -land. Whoever has had the hap- 
 piness to look into the blue eyes of Otukapuar&ngi and Te 
 Tarala can ever forget their charms 1 and whoever has stood 
 
THE UEOLOG1' OF AUCKLAND. Jj7 
 
 beside the boiling surf of the Ngakapu basin will always retain 
 a vivid impression of its terrors. The terrace of siliceous 
 deposit on the shores of Rotomahana are unequalled in the 
 world, nor is there anything that even bears any resemblance 
 to them. 
 
 9. On the Roturua lake the intermittent boiling springs of 
 WJiakarewarewa are the most interesting. Waikite, the prin- 
 cipal " ngawha," issues from the top of a siliceous cone some 20 
 feet high, and is surrounded by several smaller geysers, boiling 
 mud-pools, and solfataras. At intervals of considerable length, 
 sometimes extending to many months, all these " nyawlias" begin 
 to play together, and form a scene which must be most wonderful 
 and beautiful. 
 
 The hot springs of Ohinemutu form agreeable bathing places, 
 the fame of which is already established. 
 
 10. The last in the line are the great solfatai-as on the pumice- 
 stone plateau between Rotorua and Rotoiti such as Tikitere 
 and jRuaJtine. 
 
 I will now say a few words in explanation of these pheno- 
 mena. 
 
 All the waters of the Springs are derived from atmospheric 
 moisture, which, falling on the high volcanic plateau, permeates 
 the surface and sinks into fissures. Taupo the axis of which 
 corresponds with the line of the Hot Springs may also be con 
 sidered as a vast reservoir, from which the lower springs are 
 supplied. The water, sinking into the fissures, becomes heated 
 by the still-existing volcanic .fires. High-pressure steam is thus 
 generated, which, together with the volcanic gases, decompose 
 the trachytic rocks. The soluble substances are thus removed 
 by the water, which is forced up, by the expansive force of the 
 steam and by hydrostatic pressure, in. the shape of boiling 
 springs. The insoluble substances form a residuum of white or 
 red fumarole clay, of w r hich the hills at Terapa round llotoma- 
 hana and the Pairoa consist. 
 
 All the New Zealand hot springs, like those of Iceland, 
 abound in Silica, and are to be divided into two distinct classes 
 the one alkaline, and the other acid. To the latter belong 
 the solfataras characterised by deposits of sulphur, and never 
 forming intermittent fountains. All the intermittent springs 
 
 13 2 
 
38 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND, 
 
 belong to the alkaline class, in which are also included the most 
 of the ordinary boiling springs. Sulphurets of Sodium and 
 Potassium, and Carbonates ot Potash and Soda, are the solvents 
 of the Silica, which, on the cooling and evaporation of the water, 
 is deposited in such quantities as to form a striking characteristic 
 in the appearance of these springs. 
 
 Here I must leave this interesting subject. To enter more 
 deeply into the theory of these phenomena would be out of 
 place here. It may be, however, well to mention that numerous 
 facts prove that the action which gives rise to the hot springs is 
 slowly diminishing. 
 
 I must also state my conviction that ere long these hot springs 
 will be visited by many travellers, not only for the sake of their 
 beauty and interest, but also for the medicinal virtues they have 
 been proved to possess. Already many Europeans have bathed 
 in, and derived benefit from, the warm waters at Orakei-korako 
 and Rotoinahana. 
 
 I am unwilling to omit the interesting legend current among 
 the Natives in reference to the origin of these hot springs. The 
 legend, as told by Te Heuheu, the great chief on the Taupo 
 lake, is the following : 
 
 The great chief N~gatiroirangi, after his arrival at Maketa 
 at the time of the immigration of the Maoris from 
 Hawaiki, set off with his slave Ngaurunoe to visit the interior? 
 and, in order to obtain a better view of the country, they 
 ascended the highest peak of Tongariro. Here they suffered 
 severely from cold, and the Chief shouted to his sisters on "Wha- 
 kari (White Island) to send him. some fire. This they did. 
 They sent on the sacred fire they brought from Hawaiki, by the 
 taniwha Pnpu and Te Haeata, through a subterranean passage 
 to the top of Tongariro. The fire arrived just in time to save 
 the life of the Chief, but poor Ngauruhoe was dead when the 
 Chief turned to give him the fire. On this account the hole 
 through which the fire made its appearance the active crater 
 of Tongariro is called to this day by the name of the slave Nga- 
 urnlwc ; and the sacred fire still burns within the whole under- 
 ground passage along which it was carried from Whakari to 
 Tongariro. 
 
 This legend affords a remarkable instance of the accurate 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND, 39 
 
 observation of the Natives, who have thus indicated the true line 
 of the chief A r olcanic action in this island. 
 
 Having now described the older and more extensive volcanic 
 phenomena of the interior, I proceed to notice the later pheno- 
 mena of volcanic action in the immediate neighbourhood of Auck- 
 land. 
 
 THE AUCKLAND VOLCANIC DISTRICT. 
 
 The isthmus of Auckland is completely perforated by volcanic 
 action, and presents a large number of true volcanic hills, which, 
 although extinct and of small size, are perfect models of volcanic 
 mountains. These hills once the funnels out of which torrents of 
 burning lava were vomited forth, and after wards the strongholds of 
 savage cannibals are now the ornaments of a happy land, the 
 home of peaceful settlers, whose fruitful gardens and smiling 
 fields derive their fertility from the substances long ago thrown 
 up from the fiery bowels of the earth. 
 
 My Geological Map of the Auckland District contains no 
 less than sixty points of volcanic eruption within a radius of 
 ten miles the variety of which, together with the regularity of 
 their formations, gives very great interest to this neighbourhood. 
 The newer volcanic hills around Auckland are distinguished 
 from the older ones in the interior, not only by their age, but 
 by the different character of their lava the older being tr achy tic, 
 while the Auckland are all basaltic. 1 have not yet mentioned 
 the difference between Trachyte and Basalt. T will therefore 
 say a few words in explanation. The difference consists in the 
 minerals of which the rocks are composed. Trachyte is com- 
 posed of a mixture of glassy feldspar (jSanidin) and hornblende : 
 obsidian and pumice-stone are the usual concomitants of 
 trachytic lava. Basalt consists of a minutely-crystalline mass 
 of feldspar mixed with augit ; an admixture of greenish grains 
 of Olivin is characteristic of basalt. 
 
 In order to gain a clear idea of the history of the Auckland 
 volcanoes, we must suppose that before the period in which the 
 Auckland isthmus was slowly raised above the level of the 
 sea, a submarine volcanic action was already going on. The 
 products of this submarine action are regular beds of volcanic 
 ashes, which form highly interesting circular basins with strata 
 always inclining from within, outwards. You will at once 
 
40 THE GEOLOGY OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 remember several striking examples which I can mention as 
 the Pupuki Lake 011 the North Shore ; Orakei Bay in the 
 Waitemata ; Geddes's Basin (Ilopua) at Onehunga ; and the 
 tidal Basin (Waimagoia) at Pamnure ; Pupuki Lake, believed 
 to be bottomless, has been ascertained by Captain Burgess (who 
 kindly sounded it at my request) to be only 28 fathoms. I call 
 those basins and similar formations, tuff-craters or tuff-cones. 
 The excellence of the soil of Onehunga and Otahuhu is owing 
 to the abundance of such formations, decomposed strata of 
 which form the richest soil that can be met with. It is curious 
 to observe how the shrewder among the settlers, without any 
 geological knowledge, have picked out these tuff craters for 
 themselves, while those with less acute powers of observation 
 have quietly sat down upon the cold tertiary clays. 
 
 After the submarine formation of the tuff-craters, the volcanic 
 action continuing, the isthmus of Auckland was slowly raised 
 above the sea, and then the more recent eruptions took place, 
 by which the cones of scoria, like Mount Eden, Mount Wel- 
 lington, One Tree Hill, Mount Smart, Mount Albert, and Kaii- 
 gitoto, were formed and great out-flowings of lava took place. 
 Many peculiar circumstances, however, prove that those moun- 
 tains have not been burning all simultaneously. It can easily 
 be observed that some lava streams are of an older date than 
 others. In general the scoria cones rise from the centre of 
 the tuff-craters (Three Kings, "Waitomokia, Pigeon Hill near 
 Howick.) Occasionally, as in the instance of Mount 
 Wellington, they break through the margin of the tuff-crater. 
 
 The Crater System of Mount Wellington is one of the most 
 interesting in this neighbourhood, as beautifully shown by the 
 large map which Mr Heaphy has kindly prepared for me from 
 actual survey. There are craters and cones of evidently dif- 
 ferent ages. The result of the earliest submarine eruptions is a 
 tuff-crater. The Parimure road passes through the tuff-crater, 
 and the cutting through its brim exhibits beautifully the cha- 
 racteristic outward inclination of the beds of ashes, elevated from 
 their former horizontal levels by the eruptions, which threw up 
 the two minor crater cones south of the road one of which ia 
 now cut into by a scoria quarry. After a comparatively long 
 period of quiescence, there arose from the margin of the first crater 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND, 41 
 
 system the great scoria cone of Mount Wellington, from whose 
 three craters large streams of basaltic lava flowed out in a 
 Westerly direction, extending North and South along the 
 existing valleys of the country, one stream flowing into the old 
 tuff-crater, and spreading round the bases of the smaller crater cones. 
 The larger masses of these streams flowed in a South-westerly 
 direction towards the Manukau, coming into contact with the 
 older and long before hardened lava streams of " One Tree Hill." 
 The traveller on the Great South Road will observe about one 
 mile East of the " Harp of Erin Inn" the peculiar difference in the 
 colour on the road, suddenly changing from red to black, where 
 the road leaves the older and more decomposed lava streams of One 
 Tree Hill and passes onto the new and undecomposed lava streams 
 of Mount Wellington. The farmers have been able to avail 
 themselves of the decomposed lava surface, which is now 
 beautifully grass covered, but not of the stonefield of the newer 
 Mount Wellington and Mount Smart streams. 
 
 The Caves at the " Three Kings," Pukaki, Mount Smart, 
 Mount Wellington, &c., are the result of great bubbles in the 
 lava streams occasioned probably by the generation of gases 
 and vapour as the hot mass rolled onward over marshy plains. 
 These bubbles broke down on their thinnest part the roof 
 and the way into the caves is always directly downwards. 
 
 Examples of every gradation may be seen from the simple 
 tuff-crater without any cone, to those which are entirely filled 
 up by the scoria cones. Especially interesting are those which 
 may be said to represent the middle state, in. which there is a 
 small cone standing like an island in a large tuff-crater, and 
 surrounded by either water or swamp. Perhaps the most perfect 
 specimens of this kind occur at Otahuhu and near Captain 
 Haultain's, a map of which, from actual measurement, has been 
 prepared by Mr. W. Boulton. You need not be alarmed when 
 I tell you, that even the very spot on which we are assembled is 
 the centre of an old tuff-crater, from which fiery streams once 
 issued, and Avhich has thrown out its ashes towards the hill on 
 which the barracks stand. In order to account for these various 
 shapes, it must be borne in mind that the cones of scoria were 
 once higher, but 011 the cessation of volcanic action they sunk 
 down in cooling, and some entirely disappeared. 
 
42 THE GEOLOGY OP AUCKLAND. 
 
 That the Auckland volcanoes were, in the true sense of the 
 word, " burning mountains," is proved not only by the lava- 
 streams, which are immense in comparison to the size of the 
 cones, but also from the pear-shape volcanic bombs which, ejected 
 from the mountain in a fluid state, have received their shapo 
 from their rotatory motion through theair. That the eruptions 
 of the Auckland volcanoes have been of comparatively recent 
 date, is shown by the fact that the ashes everywhere occupy the 
 surface, and that the lava-streams have taken the course of the 
 existing valleys. This is beautifully exemplified by the 
 probably simultaneous lava streams of Mount Eden, the 
 Three Kings, and Mount Albert, which, flowing through a 
 contracted valley, met altogether on the Great North Road 
 and form one large stream to the shore of the Waitemata, 
 terminating on the well-known long reef West of the Sentinel 
 Rock. But many thousand years have passed since Rangitoto, 
 which is probably the most recent of the Auckland volcanoes, 
 was in an active state. 
 
 I have been frequently asked whether it is true, as a countryman 
 of mine who some years ago travelled in New Zealand is said to 
 have told the European settlers, that New Zealand is a pleasant 
 country, but that they had come a thousand years too soon. In 
 answer to this I have to remark that any one who knows 
 anything of geological science must be aware, that " a thousand 
 years" is an almost inappreciable space of time in reference to 
 geological changes. And I would rather say, that it would 
 have been better for New Zealand if it had been colonized a 
 thousand years ago, as there would have then been no cause for 
 tlie discussion of the " Land Question." 
 
 I should have much pleasure in saying a great deal more on 
 the Geology of New Zealand, but time will not permit me. 
 Many subjects 1 have been compelled to omit altogether such 
 as the quartary formation in the Brury, Papakura, and Waiuku 
 flats ; the Basaltic Boulder formation ; the Alluvial formations 
 in the Middle and Lower Waikato Basin, and other places ; and 
 I have said nothing of the changes which are now going on. 
 
 The materials which I have accumulated during my six 
 months' sojourn in New Zealand will, I expect, require several 
 years of labour to prepare for publication ; and unless the war 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS, 43 
 
 which now threatens my own country should unhappily interfere 
 to prevent the completion of the peaceful scientific undertaking 
 of the Expedition to which I belong, it will give me great 
 pleasure to forward to Auckland copies of our publications 
 respecting New Zealand, accompanied by an atlas, containing 
 the maps and other illustrations. 
 
 In concluding this lecture, I cannot omit the opportunity of 
 saying a few words of farewell to the inhabitants of this 
 Province. 
 
 Now that I am on the point of leaving Auckland, I turn in 
 memory to the hour in which I made up my mind to leave my 
 friends on board the Frigate " Novara" and to remain for a while 
 in New Zealand. I can assure you it was an hour of great 
 anxiety, but I am glad to say I have never regretted the decision 
 to which I with so much difficulty brought myself. Having 
 received assistance in my labours from all sides, I have arrived 
 at results which have afforded me much satisfaction, and which 
 I hope will not be without good fruit to the present and future 
 inhabitants of this Province. Having at first felt some difficulty 
 in making up my mind to remain, I now feel a similar difficulty 
 in leaving. Home ties, however, are drawing me homewards, 
 and I must quit the country in which I have spent so many 
 happy days. In parting, I have one request to make that you 
 will remember me as kindly as I will remember you ; and I 
 have one wish which is for the prosperity of the colony of 
 New Zealand, and the advancement of the Province of 
 Auckland. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 BY DR. FERDINAND v. HOCHSTETTER. 
 MAP I. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. GEOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND consists of two large and several small 
 Islands, which form a broad strip of land extending from the 
 South- West to the North-East, and at its Northern end pro- 
 longed by a narrow Peninsula in a North- Westerly direction. 
 The outlines are very similar to those of Italy in a reversed 
 
44 EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 
 
 position. Its geographical position also harmonises with 
 that of Italy, being situated between the parallel circles of 
 34J and 47J Southern width, and the meridians of 166 
 and I78f Eastern length of Greenwich. Its length is 800 
 sea miles, its central width from East to West is 120 sea 
 miles (30 G-ermaii miles), and the area of the whole group 
 of Islands amounts to 99,969 English square miles. New 
 Zealand is therefore nearly as large as Great Britain and 
 Ireland. 
 
 Two Straits Cook's Straits in the North, and Eoveaux 
 Straits in the South separate New Zealand into three parts 
 of different sizes two larger Islands, which, in the absence 
 of other names, have been termed the North and South Islands, 
 and a small Isle called Stewart's Island. To these the first 
 English G-overnor, Captain Hobson, officially gave the names 
 of New Ulster, New Munster, and New Leinster (after the 
 three Provinces of Ireland) . These names sometimes figure on 
 the maps, but are only remembered by the colonist as 
 antiquated reminiscences. The original name of New 
 Zealand is Te Ika a Maui that is, the Eish of Maui (Cook 
 wrote Ea heino Mauwe) a name which has a mythical signi- 
 fication. Also Te Wahi Punarnu, or land of the green-stone ; 
 and Ea Kiura. The former was applied only to the South 
 Island, where the mineral Nephrite, which was so highly prized 
 by the Maoris, was to be found. 
 
 The three Islands form a geological group, being parts 
 of the same system, which forms one distinct line of 
 elevation in the Pacific Ocean. And Nature, with her 
 mighty forces of fire and water, has indelibly engraved 
 the history of the Islands on their surface. In the South, 
 wild alpine regions covered with ice and glaciers, and in the 
 North, volcanoes reaching to the regions of eternal snow, are 
 seen glimmering in the distance by the mariner on approaching 
 the coast. The fertile, richly-watered alluvial flats are the 
 virgin soil on which the settler forms his new home, and 
 where, blessed with the most salubrious of all climates, he has 
 to combat only the wilderness to ensure the reward of his labour. 
 
 The characteristic of New Zealand is a large longitudinal 
 mountain chain, which, broken by Cook's Straits, runs through 
 the principal Island in a South- Westerly and North-Easterly 
 
EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 45 
 
 direction from the South Cape to the East Cape. This forms 
 the backbone of the Islands, and reaches its grand and multi- 
 farious development in the Southern Island, where it assumes, 
 in numberless summits covered with snow and glaciers, the 
 character of mountains, to which, with full justice, the name 
 of the Southern Alps has been given. Majestically in the centre 
 of these mountainous regions stands the summit of Mount Cook, 
 with its neighbouring giant heights, elevated 13,000 feet above 
 the level of the sea, or nearly the height of Mont Blanc. 
 Mighty glaciers, streams, and magnificent mountain lakes, 
 splendid cascades, passes, and dark clefts whose rocky walls 
 re-echo the noisy torrents rushing through them, form the 
 beauty of a wild solitary mountain scenery, seldom trodden 
 by human feet. The brave explorers who have of late years 
 had the courage to penetrate into these wild regions,* report 
 that their grandeur if even equalled is not excelled by any in. 
 the world. 
 
 Towards the West, those Alpine mountains abruptly assume 
 a very precipitous character, and form, on this the stormy 
 side of the Island, a dreadfully rugged, weather-beaten, and 
 rocky coast. On the East, at the feet of these mountains, lay 
 wide-spreading plains and alluvial flats, well adapted for 
 agriculture, and which are occupied by the European settlers 
 as sheep runs ; - while on the North and South the gradations 
 and slopes of the mountains are of a clay slate formation, in 
 which are hidden those quartz veins that have of late years 
 been developed into the rich gold-fields to which Nelson and 
 Otago owe their prosperity. 
 
 In the North Island, past Cook's Straits, the Southern Alps 
 have their continuation in the great mountain chain which 
 
 * Mr. Julius Haast, the German traveller, geologist to the 
 Province of Canterbury, deserves the highest tribute of praise for his 
 researches in the Southern Alps. In 1860 he investigated the mountain 
 ranges of Nelson, and in 1860 and 1862 those of the Province of Canter- 
 bury, where he reached the highest central summit of Mount Cook, and 
 discovered here numerous glaciers to about 3,000 to 4,000 feet above 
 the level of the sea, while the height of the eternal snow region com- 
 mences at 7,500 to 8,000 above that level. The principal glaciers Haast 
 named Clyde, Havelock, Ashburton, Godley, Murchison, Tasman, 
 Hochstetter, MUller, Hooker ; while the principal summits are called 
 Mount Tyndall, Mount Forbes, Mount Arrowsmith, Mount Petermaun, 
 Mount De la Beche, Haidenger Range, Malte Bran Range, Mount Elie 
 du Beaumont, &c., &c., all mountains of 10,000 feet and upwards. 
 
46 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 stretches along the East Coast, from Cape Pallisser to the 
 East Cape. Different peaks, which have names, such as 
 Tararua, Ruahiiie, Kaimanawa, Te "Waiti, are of pretty nearly 
 equal height. The highest summits reach only from 5,000 
 to 6,000 feet, and are therefore much less than the 
 height of the Southern Alps. .These mountains are an almost 
 terra incognita , and doubtless contain treasures of many kinds. 
 The Northern Island is also rich in Volcanic phenomena. 
 The high plateau on the Western side of this mountain chain, 
 sloping off towards the North and South, forms the remaining 
 part of the Island, and is pierced to a great depth in more 
 than a hundred places by Volcanic agencies. 
 
 High Trachytic Volcanoes, and a great number of small 
 Basaltic eruption- cones, of quite a recent age, and a long 
 chain of hot springs which, like the G-eysers of Iceland, 
 at intermittent periods, throw up masses of boiling water in 
 steaming fountains, Fumaroles and Solfataras in a multitude 
 of forms of the utmost conceivable grandeur, offer to the 
 geologist a rich field for research, and to the traveller some 
 of the most remarkable scenes of nature. 
 
 The extraordinarily diversified surface formation of New 
 Zealand leads to the inference of a most varied geological 
 conformation. The commencement of a geological examina- 
 tion of the North and South Islands has proved this 
 to the fullest extent, during the last few years. The geologic 
 detail maps of my own observations, and partly those of my 
 friend Haast's, show manifold changes in strata and in 
 minerals. They show that, throughout the whole chain, from 
 the oldest metamorphic formation to the latest sediment 
 layers, and also from the earliest plutonic rocks, up to the 
 latest volcanic formation, all the principal genera are 
 represented. 
 
 New Zealand is rich in minerals of all kinds, and all those 
 which are now found as gold, copper, iron, chrome, graphite 
 and coal can only be regarded as the first-fruits of future 
 treasures to be brought to light in years to come. 
 
 The fossil fauna and flora of New Zealand, as far as at 
 present known, differs entirely from that of Australia, and 
 many geological facts prove that New Zealand, surrounded 
 by the ocean, has been an island though not in its present 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 47 
 
 form since the most remote ages, and entirely isolated from 
 larger continents. In the later ages of the history of man, it 
 has been inhabited near the coast and along the course of the 
 larger rivers. It has thus maintained the peculiar and pristine 
 origin of its fauna and flora. The European domestic animals 
 which have only been introduced since the latter end of the 
 last, and the commencement of the present century, are the 
 only quadrupeds which existed in this country. 
 
 In respect of its insular position, its splendid oceanic 
 climate, the fertility of its soil, and its entire formation, New 
 Zealand is of all the Colonies of the British Crown, the most 
 similar to the Home Country, and destined to become the 
 mother of a new civilized race a Great Britain of the 
 South Sea. 
 
 MAP II. 
 
 THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF THE SOUTI1EEN PAET OF THE 
 PKOYINCE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 SINCE Dieffenbach's memorable travels in New Zealand in the 
 year 1840, no naturalist has visited the southern part of the 
 Province of Auckland, so justly celebrated for its grand volcanic 
 phenomena. 
 
 The geological information which Dieffenbach gave in his 
 work could not suffice; the interior was topographically almost 
 unknown. A journey, therefore, to these parts, promised rich 
 field for observation ; and after a stay of nearly two months 
 in Auckland and its neighbourhood, I started with a numerous 
 suite, well provided for a long journey on foot, and for a cam- 
 paign in that thinly inhabited country. 
 
 On the 6th of March, 1859, near Maungatautari, I reached 
 the main stream of the Waikato, flowing from the heart of 
 the Island. 
 
 I travelled along this river in the canoes of the natives, and 
 observed near Kupa Kupa large brown coal seams, and entering 
 the Waipa, visited the Mission Station, and took a tour to the 
 West to visit the Harbours of Whaingaroa, Aotea, and Kawhia. 
 All those localities are of geological importance on account of 
 the numerous localities for petrefactions. At Kawhia, I found, 
 besides Belemuites, the first Ammonites found in New Zealand. 
 
48 EXPLANATION THE MAPS. 
 
 Prom Kawhia, I took a tour inland to the Mokau district. 
 Penetrating through numerous primitive forests, and traversing 
 ]arge mountain chains, I passed the springs of the Wanganui 
 River in the Tuhua district, and 011 the 14th of April, our party 
 arrived at the majestic Lake Taupo, which is surrounded by 
 the grandest volcanic scenery, and is situated 1250 feet above the 
 level of the sea. Here I was in the heart of the country, at the 
 foot of the steaming volcano, Tongariro,and its now silent neigh- 
 bour Ruapahu, 9,200 feet high, covered w r ith eternal snow. On 
 the Southern wide of the Lake is a Mission Station, where 1 
 received the kindest hospitality, and my Maori companions 
 were entertained in Maori fashion in the neighbouring Pa 
 Pukawa by the great chief Te Heuheu. After I had sketched 
 the plan of the Lake, and examined the numerous hot springs 
 on its borders, I started from the sources of the "Waikato River 
 flowing from that Lake, and followed the most interesting chain 
 of boiling springs, solfataras, and fumaroles, which are situated 
 in a North-Easterly direction between the active crater of 
 Tongariro and the island volcano of Whakari or White Island, 
 on the East Coast. The Lake neighbourhood is situated in the 
 line where the nyawlias ftndjWMB of New Zealand (that is, the 
 boiling fountains and geysers, where silicious stalactites form 
 terraces of basins) reach their most magnificent development 
 near the Rotoiti and Rotomahaua Lakes. I consider the 
 hot springs in this district the most remarkable, and, next 
 to Iceland, the largest in the world. ' 
 
 In the beginning of May, I reached the East Coast near 
 Maketu, Tauranga Harbour. Hence I went inland to the Waiho 
 valley, or the valley of the Thames of New Zealand, and 
 arrived at Maungatautari again at the Waikato. I wandered 
 through the fruitful fields of the Middle Waikato basin, by 
 Rangiawhia, the centre of the Maori settlement, and paid a 
 visit to the Maori King Potatau Te Wherowhero, at his 
 residence Ngaruawahia, at the confluence of the AVaikato and 
 Waipa, and returned by the Waikato, to Maungatawhiri, at 
 the end of May, on my way to Auckland. 
 
 The result of this expedition, extending over three months, 
 was in every respect satisfactory ; the favourable state of the 
 weather lessened many of the difficulties which travelling 
 through swampy rivers and the almost impassable New Zealand 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 49 
 
 bush would otherwise have entailed, and luckily my journey 
 happened to be during the harvest of potatoes, wheat, &c., &c., 
 consequently I found no want in the commissariat department. 
 We received the most hearty welcome at the various Mission 
 Stations scattered over the country, and the native Chiefs 
 everywhere received the Te Rata Hokiteta (my name in the 
 Maori tongue,) and my companions, at their pas, with great 
 honour and hospitality, were always willing to oblige, and with 
 good-humoured zeal ready to assist with everything. 
 
 "With the assistance of my friends Haast, Hay, Koch, and 
 Hamel, who were my companions, the results proved in every 
 way as satisfactory as could be expected. A rich collection 
 of Geographical, Mineralogical, Botanical, and Geological 
 observations came into my hands, and also for Ethnographical 
 studies I had ample opportunity. 
 
 My principal aim was, however, the Geography and Geology 
 of the country. To make geological sketches, I was obliged to 
 work at the same time topographically, as the maps of the 
 interior were based only on the reports of travelling mission- 
 aries and a-la-vuc sketches. 
 
 The map which I took with me from Auckland, for my 
 guidance, only gave a little information about the coast, and 
 its value beyond a few miles from Auckland was not more 
 than that of a piece of waste paper. I had, therefore, to adopt 
 a triangulation system based on the nautical observations of 
 Captain Drury, and carried out from the West to the East 
 coast, with the energetic assistance of Major Drurninond Hay. 
 The natives, who otherwise always manifested their mistrust 
 of the Government Surveyors, and placed every difficulty in 
 their way, did not interrupt me. They knew, that I was a 
 foreigner who would remain only a short time in the country, 
 and they assisted me in every possible manner, to enable me 
 to relate in my distant land much of the beauties of their 
 country. The chiefs themselves were my guides to the most 
 interesting parts, and to the top of the mountains, where with 
 the utmost readiness they gave me the names of the mountains, 
 rivers, valleys, and lakes, and explained after their fashion the 
 geography of the district. I carefully collected all the names 
 they gave me, and trust that I have rescued from oblivion 
 many beautiful Maori names. The terrain positions I 
 
50 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 sketched always on the spot, and in this manner I returned 
 with materials from Avhich I compiled in Auckland a map of 
 the Southern part of that Province, on a large scale. * 
 
 This map has been re-cast and revised with the assistance of 
 my original sketches and surveys, by Dr. A. Petermann, and 
 the map in this Atlas, in the reduced scale, is the product of 
 his labour, and the result of my observations. It stands to 
 reason, that a map which contains nearly 2,500 miles (10,000 
 square miles) and embraces more than the fourth part of the 
 "Northern Island, executed by the assistance of a compass 
 alone, within the period of three months, can make no preten- 
 sions to a trigonometric exactness. It is, however, the first 
 map which gives a correct view of the rivers and mountain 
 systems, and of the lakes, in the interior of the Northern 
 Island, and will be useful until some better and more complete 
 map takes its place. The Barometrical measures which I took 
 served as corresponding observations to those of the Obser- 
 vatory of the Royal Engineers in Auckland, which were kindly 
 placed at my services by Colonel Mould. 
 
 The geological condition of the Southern part of the Province 
 of Auckland may be sketched in the following order : 
 
 PALEOZOIC (PRIMARY) FORMATION. 
 
 Dark coloured claystone, old sandstone called grauwacke, 
 silicious and jasparoid slate, form a complex system of layers, 
 
 * A copy of my original map, to the scale of 2 miles to 1 inch, re- 
 mained in Auckland for the use of the Government. A second copy was 
 sent to Mr. J. Arrowsmith, in London, to be used for the construction 
 of a large JS'ew Zealand map in six parts, which that gentleman 
 intended to compile, with the understanding, however, that this 
 map was to be used only as a provisional delineation of my observa- 
 tions. The Geological map of the Province of Auckland, which was 
 exhibited in the International Exhibition of London, in 1862, by 
 Mr. Charles Heaphy, was entirely a copy and combination of my maps 
 and surveys, without any acknowledgment of my aiithorship. The 
 map, also, of the Isthmus of Auckland, given in the Quarterly Journal 
 of the Geological Society of London, by Mr. Charles Heaphy, was pub- 
 lished without my knowledge, and is a very incomplete copy of my obser- 
 vations and maps, which were in Mr. Heaphy's official charge. In this 
 map that gentleman also introduced his own observations upon the 
 geological formations of the neighbourhood of Auckland, made previous 
 to my arrival in New Zealand, but without possessing even the most 
 elementary knowledge necessary for making a Geological Survey. I have 
 ielt it my duty to make these remarks out of respect for truth and 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 51 
 
 which on the Northern Island, where crystalline (mctamorphic) 
 slate rocks have not yet been discovered, appears to be the 
 oldest formation, the geological age of which it is impossible to 
 state with exactitude, as petrifactions have not yet been discov- 
 ered. The gold quartz veins which are to be found in the 
 peninsula of Cape Colville (Coroniandel harbour), are imbed- 
 ded in this old clay slate formation, frequent outbursts and 
 layers of dioritic rocks correspond to the Silurian age. 
 
 Distribution. Upon the peninsula of Cape Colville, where it 
 is covered to a great extent with recent volcanic conglomerate, 
 containing rich gold quartz veins, which have given rise to 
 mining enterprise since 18G2 (Coroinandel Grold Fields) . The 
 alluvial diggings arising from those veins are of little impor- 
 tance. Upon the islands of the Hauraki Grulf, where the Great 
 Barrier and Kawau contain veins of copper ore (copper 
 pyrites, black and some red copper ore) . Upon Waiheki are 
 immense strata of jaspar and petrosilex; as also in the moun- 
 tain chains of the west side of the Firth of the Thames, and 
 thence in a southerly direction into the chains of Taupiri and 
 Kakarimata. Further on they are covered by tertiary and 
 volcanic strata, and penetrate to the surface only in a few 
 localities. The mountain chains which extend from the Wel- 
 lington district to the Taupo Lake and the East Coast, consist 
 most likely also of old palaeozoic rocks. 
 
 MESOZOIC (SECONDARY) FORMATION. 
 
 The Mesozoic formation has been ascertained by the discovery 
 of Ammonites and Belemnites in the entrance to the Waikato 
 river, and in the harbour of Kawhia, although the exact age of 
 these strata cannot be fixed by the discovery of petrifactions up 
 to this time, and which are enumerated as follows : 
 
 1. A very large complex stratum of very regular and highly 
 inclined beds of marl and sandstone, on the "Waikato South 
 Head, with 
 
 Belemnites Aucklandicus (v. Hauer) , 
 Aucella plicata (Zittel) , 
 Placunopsis striatula (Zittel), 
 Terebratula spec. ; 
 At the Kawhia Harbour, with 
 
 Belemnites Aucklandicus (var, minor) , 
 
 
 
52 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 Ammonites Novo-Seelandicus (v. Hauer), 
 
 Inoceramus Haasti (Hochst.). 
 
 2. Strata containing coal on the West Coast, south of the 
 entrance of the Waikato sandstone, marl, and slate clay, 
 with thin, worthless seams of coal, and numerous portions of 
 plants, amongst which are frequently to be found in good 
 preservation : 
 
 Polypodium Hochstetteri (Unger) , 
 
 Asplenium palseopteris (Unger) ; 
 
 while the Belemnites (belonging to the group of Canaliculati) 
 indicate the Jurassic system. The largely folded Inoceramus 
 and Ammonites have a greater similarity to those from the 
 chalk formation. 
 
 CAINOZOIC (TEETIAET) FORMATION. 
 
 Tertiary Formations are distributed over a large portion of 
 the Province of Auckland, for the most part in a horizontal 
 position. 
 
 1. Brown Coal Formation : sandstone and clay slate, with beds 
 of useful coal. 
 
 (.) The Hunua coal-field, near Drury and Papakura 
 district, south of Auckland, discovered in the year 1858 
 by the E-ev. Mr. Purchas. and worked since 1859 by 
 the Waihoihoi Coal Company. The coal belongs to a 
 class of brown coal to the so-called glanz and pitch 
 coal and contains a fossil gum Ambrit (Haidinger) 
 which has often been mistaken for kauri gum. The 
 price of this coal in Auckland is 80s. to 32s. per ton. 
 The argillaceous slate and sandstone accompanying 
 this contains several bivalves and leaves of Dicotyle- 
 dones : 
 
 Pagus Ninnisiana (Unger) , 
 Lorantophyllum G-riselinia (Unger), 
 
 ,, Dubium (Unger) 
 
 Myrtifolium lingua (Unger) &c. 
 
 (b.) The coal-fields of the Lower Waikato basin a large 
 brown, coal basin is situated at Kupakupa, on the 
 northern declivity of Hakarimata chain, but is not yet 
 worked, 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 53 
 
 (c.) Brown coal strata on the west and southern brim of 
 the central Waikato basin. 
 
 2. Marine argillaceous marl, sand, and limestone, witli numerous 
 
 petrifactions. 
 
 (a.) Waitemata beds : sandstone and inarl, on the isth- 
 mus of Auckland, on the North Shore and Mauukau, 
 with stray pieces of wood transformed into brown coal. 
 On the Orakei Bay, near Auckland, strata rich in 
 glauconite, many foraininiferso and bryozoac with small 
 pectens 
 
 Pecten Aucklandicus (Zittel), 
 
 Fischeri (Zittel) 
 
 small forms similar to Bivalves and Belemnites, which 
 are most probably the centres of Vaginella shells. 
 
 (b.) The limestone cliffs of Drury, near Auckland : flat 
 limestone rich in foraminiferse, with Turbinolia, 
 Schizaster, Terebratula, Pecten, &c. 
 
 (c.) Waikato Heads and southerly direction of the West 
 Coast : granulated sandstone strata, resting irregu- 
 larly on the above-mentioned Belemnite beds with coal 
 layers, and containing Cidaris, Nucleolites, Schizaster, 
 Fasciculipora, Retepora, Cellepora, Waldheima, Pecten, 
 Sharks' teeth, &c. 
 
 (d.) Clay marl and flat sandstone on the borders of 
 "Whaingaroa, Aotea, and Kawhia, on the "West Coast, 
 with Pecten, Waldheimia, &c., and many Eoraminiferes. 
 
 (<?.) The flat coarse limestone in the Upper Waipa, 
 Maungapu, and Mokau district, with many subterrestial 
 rivulets, caves, and fumiel-shapel holes. 
 
 POST-TERTIARY (OE QUATERNARY) FORMATION. 
 
 1. Plastic clay and sand, with Lignite in the Lower Waikato 
 
 basin, and in the flats on the south and east side of the 
 Manukau harbour. 
 
 2. The terrace formation in the Lower and Middle "Waikato 
 
 basin the terraces the number and regularity of which 
 causes astonishment to the observer, are the consequences 
 of the continual erosions of the rivers during a slowly 
 continuing rising of the lauds in the quaternary period. 
 
 E 2 
 
54 EXPLANATION Or Till! MAPS. 
 
 The Taupo district is the source of the extensive masses 
 of pumice which are distributed over the terraces. 
 '3. Littoral formation along the coast. 
 
 (.) Formation of downs mostly near the West Coast and 
 
 on the Coast of the Bay of Plenty. 
 (#.) Layers of titanic magnetic iron sand along the West 
 
 Coast. 
 (c.) Mud with brackish sea animals in the estuaries of the 
 
 East and West Coast, 
 i. Formation in tlie Interior. 
 
 (a.) Extensive swamps and peat bogs along the East Coast, 
 
 the Middle and Lower Waikato basin, and on the 
 
 entrance of the Waikato. 
 (i.) Layers, with bones of the Moa (JDinornis), and Moa 
 
 stones in swamps ; alluvial deposits and caves in the 
 
 Upper Waipa, Mokau, and Tulma district, and on the 
 
 East Coast. 
 (c.) Layers of kauri gum. in the northern part of the 
 
 Province of Auckland, where formerly kauri forest 
 
 existed. 
 (d.) Alluvium containing gold in the neighbourhood of 
 
 Coromandel harbour. 
 
 5. Accumulations by the hands of men, as shells, stones, 
 bones, &c., over different districts. 
 (.) Heaps of shells of edible varieties Cardium, Ostrea, 
 
 Mytilus, Patella, Venus, Haliotis, Mesodesma, Turbo, 
 
 Monodouta, &c. particularly in the places of former 
 
 pas and villages, analogous to the Kjokkeu modelings 
 
 in Denmark. 
 (6.) Stones of fire-places of the Maoris, charcoal, and 
 
 ashes, 
 (c'.) A variety of tools made from stone by the Maoris, 
 
 anchors, axes, <&c., prepared of Aphanite, Nephrite^ 
 
 ilintstone, &c. 
 (d.) Human bones, bones of dogs, whales, fishes, and 
 
 different birds Penguin, Albatross, Weka (Ocydromus) , 
 
 Kiwi (Apterix), Moa bones, and egg shells, in the 
 
 neighbourhood of the Maori fire-places. These bones 
 
 arc mostly burned, and bear the marks of stone 
 
 weapons. 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 55 
 
 YOLCANIC FOBMATION. 
 
 1. The north side of the Manukau Harbour is formed of a rugged 
 
 rocky coast wall composed of mighty layers of volcanic 
 stone masses, consisting of angular fragments of the 
 different volcanic basis of rocks Trachy-Dolerite, Ande- 
 site, &c., which are transformed landwards into different 
 coloured conglomerate clays. 
 
 2. On the southern side of the Manukau Harbour, and on both 
 
 sides of the Waikato, thence to the Aotea Harbour, 
 extensive strata of basaltic conglomerate cover the ter- 
 tiary layers, and with these conglomerates are immediately 
 connected masses of eruptive basalt, without forming 
 distinct craters. 
 
 H. The volcanic zone which encloses the Middle Waikato 
 basin, and is situated between this and the Lake Taupo, is 
 principally formed by trachyte and pumice, with which 
 are connected a very long line of volcanos, such as Karioi, 
 Pirongia, Kakepuku, Maungatautari, Aroha, and many 
 others. These mountains consist of trachytic, andesitic, 
 and doleritic rocks ; their summits are decayed and 
 destroyed, and their craters scarcely recognisable.. 
 
 4. The volcanic formation of the Taupo zone consists of a 
 rhyolithic and trachytic lava. The volcanic eruption 
 which commenced in the tertiary period continued, and 
 gave to the Northern Island its present form only in the 
 quaternary period. The eruptive masses of the Taupo 
 zone consist of lava (the richest known) of silicious earth, 
 also of rhyolithic rocks of all kinds, with obsidian and 
 pumice. Near the centre of the Northern Island, on 
 the southern border of the great inland lake Taupo, the 
 water of which fills a large sunken crater, there rises on 
 a plateau of pumice of 2,000 feet above the level of 
 the sea the two giant volcanoes of New Zealand, Tongariro 
 and Kuapahu. The Tongariro volcano, which rises to an 
 elevation of 6,500 feet, is yet active as a Solfatara, with 
 two large and constantly steaming craters (Ngauruhoe 
 and Ketetahi). Euapahu, which is 9,000 feet high, is 
 covered with everlasting snow, and its fires seem to be 
 extinct. These two mountains are accompanied on their 
 northern side by a number of smaller extinct volcanoes, 
 
56 EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 
 
 which the natives have designated as the wives and 
 children of the two giants. 
 
 In a north-easterly direction, a few miles distant from the 
 coast in the Bay of Plenty, is situated the second active 
 volcano of New Zealand, Whakari (White Island), 863 
 feet high, from the crater of which ascends, uninter- 
 ruptedly, large white clouds of vapour. The distance 
 between these two large volcanos amounts to 120 miles, 
 and between them the volcanic agency steams and boils 
 in more than a thousand places from deep furrows and 
 fissures, a sign of the continual subterraneous fire, while 
 numerous lakes are formed by the sunken ground, and 
 which represents the Lake District, so celebrated for its 
 boiling springs, fumaroles, and solfataras ; or, as the 
 natives call them, the ngawlms and puias, in the southern 
 parts of the Province of Auckland (vide expl. Map 4). 
 5. The volcanic formation of Auckland zone is of basaltic 
 lava (vide expl. Map 3) . 
 
 RECORD OF THE HEIGHTS OF THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE 
 PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 t Parts which have been adjusted by the marine survey ("New Zealand 
 
 Pilot," and English charts). 
 It Barometric measures, by Hochstetter. 
 * Estimated. 
 
 English feet, 
 Auckland Meteor ologic Observatory of the Royal 
 
 Engineer Department ... ... ... 140f 
 
 Claremont House, upper end of Princes-street 1306 
 Kaipara Harbour, West Coast : 
 
 Te Karanga Mountain, on the River Otamotea 1440f 
 "Wakakuranga, mountain on the Oruawharu 
 Eiver... ... ... ... ... 476f 
 
 Opara, Mount ... ... ... ... 378f 
 
 Auckland Peak, by Otau Creek ... ... 1023f 
 
 Koharanga, on the Kaipara Eiver ... ... 326f 
 
 Titirangi chain, between the Waitakeri and tlie 
 
 Manakau Harboiw : 
 Mount Tea Wekatuku 1430f 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS, 57 
 
 English feet. 
 
 Pukematiku, Henderson's Bush. ... ... 1300* 
 
 Maungatoetoe, Delworth's Farm ... ... 1200* 
 
 Parera, West Coast ... ... ... 700* 
 
 Manakau Harbour, West Coast : 
 
 North Head, Paratutai Island, Signal Station... 350f 
 
 Pilot Station ... ... ... ... 300* 
 
 Pukehuhu ... ... ... ... 690f 
 
 Omanawanui Peak ... ... ... 1100* 
 
 Te Kaamoki, or Te Komoki Peak, near the 
 
 Huia ... ... ... ... ... 480f 
 
 The Huia Peak ... ... ... ... 1280f 
 
 Puponga, highest point ... ... ... 390f 
 
 Heights of the left border of the big Muddy 
 
 Creek... ... ... ... ... GOOf 
 
 Heights by "Whan Creek ... ... ... SOOf 
 
 South Head, Mahauihaui ... ... ... 580f 
 
 East Coast, from the Bay of Islands to tlie Waite- 
 mata Harbour, or the Harbour of Auckland : 
 
 Cape Tewara, or Bream Head, Wangarei Harbour 1502f 
 
 Summit between Bream Head, near "Wangarei. . . 1340f 
 
 Moto Tiri Island ) c ... 725f 
 
 Taranga Island j Hen and Chickens j 1863f 
 
 Mount Hamilton, near Eodney's Point . . . 1050f 
 
 Kawau Island, Mount Taylor ... ... 510f 
 
 Little Barrier Island, or (Houturu) Mount 
 
 Many Peaks ... ... ... ... 2383f 
 
 Great Barrier Island, or (Aotea) Mount 
 
 Hobson ... ... ... ... 2330f 
 
 The Volcanos of Auckland : 
 
 Eangitoto ... ... ... ... 920f 
 
 North Head, Takapuna ... ... ... 216f 
 
 Mount Tictoria, Takarunga ... ... 280f 
 
 Heaphyllill ... ... ... ... 100* 
 
 Mount Eden ... ... ... ... 642f 
 
 Hobson ... ... ... ... 430f 
 
 St. John ... ... ... ... 400f 
 
 Albert ... ... ... ... 400f 
 
 Kennedy ... ... ... ... 310f 
 
 Three Kings ... ... 390f 
 
EXPTAXATTOX OF TTTE MAPS. 
 
 English feet. 
 
 One Tree Hill ... ... ... ... 580f 
 
 Mount Smart ... ... ... ... 300* 
 
 "Wellington 350* 
 
 Pigeon Hill ... ... HOf 
 
 OtaraHill ... 150f 
 
 Mangere Hill 333f 
 
 "Waitomokia 120* 
 
 Puketutu . . . 2(>3f 
 
 Otuataua ... ... ... ... 300f 
 
 Maungataketake ... ... ... ... 300f 
 
 Maunrcwa ... ... ... ... 300f 
 
 Matakarna ... ... ... ... 300f 
 
 Drury Young's Inn (first storey) ... ... 75/; 
 
 Brown coal shaft on Farmer's land ... ... 35M 
 
 Great South Road, between Drury anclMangatct wJiiri: 
 
 1. Pirst hill at the entrance of the bush ... 491Z* 
 
 2. Highest point of the road ... ... Slli 
 
 3. "Waikohowheke, house 011 the road . . . 59SZ 
 
 4. Second height of the road 011 the place where 
 
 the view of the Waikato opens ... ... 770& 
 
 Mfmyatawliiri ... ... ... ... 77/> 
 
 PapahoraJiord) near Kupakupa, on the left side of 
 
 the "Waikato Biver, the place of the brown 
 
 coal seam ... ... ... ... 250* 
 
 Tnupiri, a hill on the right border of the Waikato, 
 
 opposite the Mission Station ... ... 9S34 
 
 Kakepwku, isolated mountain not far from the 
 
 Mission Station on the Waipa ... ... 15317; 
 
 Points between the. Waipa River and tlie West 
 
 Coast: 
 Toketoke, lake on the way from "Whatawhata to 
 
 Whaingaroa ... ... ... ... 249/; 
 
 Highest point of the road from Whatawliata 1o 
 
 Whaingaroa ... ... ... ... S53A 
 
 Wliaingaroa Harbour, Captain Johnson's house 93/; 
 Station between the Whaingaroa and Aotoa 
 
 Harbours ... ... ... ... 243 1> 
 
 Mill on the Opavau River, Kawhia Harbour ... 07 A 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE HAPS. 
 
 59 
 
 English feet. 
 
 Pirongia, highest point of the Oparau Eiver to 
 
 the Waipa ... ... ... ... 15856 
 
 Pirongia, highest point of the mountain group 2S30f 
 
 Waikato Eiver: 
 
 1. Near Mangatawhiri ... ... ... 35* 
 
 2. Near Eangiriri, pa on the right border of 
 
 the Waikato ... ... ... ... 516 
 
 3. Near Taipouri, island in the river with a 
 
 Maori village ... ... ... ... 636 
 
 4. Near Tukopoto, Mission Station ... ... 757; 
 
 5. Ngaruawahia, residence of the Maori King 85* 
 0. Kirikiriroa ... ... ... ... 977; 
 
 7. Aniwhaniwha, Waikato Bridge ... ... 1666 
 
 S. Near Orakei Korako ... ... ... 9706 
 
 9. Near the efflux from Taupo lake . . . 12506 
 
 Between the Waikato and Waipa : 
 
 Maungatautari, Maori pa ... ... 6216 
 
 Otawhao , Mission Station, ... ... 2117; 
 
 Waipa River and District : 
 
 Ngaruawahia ... ... ... ... 85* 
 
 Whatawhata, left side of the Waipa ... ... 1097; 
 
 School-house ... ... ... ... 1136 
 
 Kaipiha, Mr. Turner's house ... ... 1677; 
 
 Waipa, at the entrance of the Mangaweka ... I486 
 Mission Station of the Eev. A. Eeid, nearly 25 
 
 feet above the bed of the river ... ... 1736 
 
 A watoitoi, Maori settlement on the right border 
 
 of the Waipa, nearly 25 feet above the bed of 
 
 the river ... ... ... ... 185* 
 
 Orahiri, on the left bank of the Waipa . . . 186* 
 
 Hangataki, Maori settlement ... ... 1957; 
 
 Te ^.na Uriuri, cave of Stalactites ... ... 201 7; 
 
 Tauahuhu, Maori settlement on the left bank 
 
 oftheWangapu ... ... ... 1966 
 
 Mangawhitikau, Maori village ... ... 2376 
 
 PukeAruhe, hill ... ... ... ... 8776 
 
 Upper Moleau District : 
 
 Tokapau, Maori settlement,.. ... .., 8236 
 
60 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS, 
 
 English feet. 
 Piopio, Maori settlement on the upper Mokau 
 
 Eiver... ... ... ... ... 4695 
 
 Mokau Eiver, above the "Wairere falls . . . 4205 
 
 Pukewhau, Maori pa on the left bank of the 
 
 Mokau Eiver ... ... ... ... 6835 
 
 Mokauiti, between the Maori settlement Huritu 
 
 and Punanga ... ... ... ... 4736 
 
 Puhanga ... ... ... ... 9375 
 
 Morotawha, place of encampment on the 7th and 
 
 8th of April, 1859 ... ... ... 5705 
 
 Tarewatu mountain ridge, height of pass from 
 
 the Mokau to the Wanganui district ... 15815 
 
 Tarewatu, highest point ... ... ... 17905 
 
 Tapuiwahine, highest point on the way from 
 
 Makau to "Wanganui ... ... ... 19335 
 
 Upper Wanganui) Tuhua District : 
 Ohura, Maori village ... ... ... 9175 
 
 Katiaho, Maori settlement, on the Ongaruhe 
 
 river ... ... ... ... ... 6505 
 
 Ngariha, hill on the Ongaruhe river ... ... 15515 
 
 Pokomotu plateau, highest point on the way from 
 
 Katiaho to Petiano ... ... ... 13865 
 
 Petania, Maori village on the Taringamotu river 7545 
 Takaputiraha chain, passage from Petania to 
 
 Taupo ... ... ... ... 15345 
 
 Pungapunga brook, on the road to Taupo . . . 8975 
 Puketapu, mount on the road to Taupo . . . 20735 
 
 Lake Taupo : 
 
 Moerangi, pumice-stone plateau on the west and 
 
 south-west of Lake Taupo ... ... 21885 
 
 Whakairomu ... ... ... ... 21755 
 
 Kuratao river on the road to Pukawa ... 17195 
 
 Poaru, Maori settlement ... ... ... 22895 
 
 Pukawa, pa on the southern bank of Taupo 
 
 Lake ... ... ... ... ... 13995 
 
 Mission Station of the Eev. Mr. Grace, at Lake 
 
 Taupo ... ... ... ... 14735 
 
 Koroiti plateau, on the south bank of Lake Taupo 17685 
 Taupo Lake (after Dieffenbach, 1337 feet) ... 12505 
 
EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 
 
 Gl 
 
 English feet. 
 
 Eoto Aira, after Dieffenbach ... ... 1709 
 
 Eotu Piinamu, after Dieffenbach ... ... 2147 
 
 Tongariro and Ruapahu : 
 Tongariro, Ngauruhoe Mount (after Dieffenbach, 
 
 6,200) ... ... ... ... 6500* 
 
 Euapahu, on Taylor's map ... ... ... 10,236* 
 
 Arrowsmith's map ... ... 9000* 
 
 English charts ... ... 9195* 
 
 Pihanga ... ... ... ... 3500* 
 
 Between Taupo Lake and the East Coast : 
 
 Oruanui, Maori settlement ... ... 16726 
 
 Plateau above Orakei Korako ... ... 2200* 
 
 Orakei Koroko, pa on the left bank of the 
 
 "Waikato river ... ... ... ... 11695 
 
 Boiling mud springs at the foot of Paeroa . . . 14096 
 "Waikite, hot springs at the foot of the Paeroa 
 
 chain... ... ... ... ... 12416 
 
 Pakaraka, above Eoto Kakahi ... ... 18016 
 
 Eoto Kakahi Lake ... ... ... 13786 
 
 Eoto Mahana Lake ... ... ... 10886 
 
 Tarawera Lake ... ... ... ... 10756 
 
 Papawera plateau, between Eoto Mahana and 
 
 Tarawera ... ... ... ... 18676 
 
 Mission Station on Tarawera Lake, Eev. Mr. 
 
 Spencer ... ... ... ... 15026 
 
 Eotorua Lake ... ... ... ... 10436 
 
 Ngongotaha, mount on the southern bank of 
 
 Eoturua ... ... ... ... 22826 
 
 Eotokawa, small lake on the eastern bank of 
 
 Eotorua ... ... ... ... 10986 
 
 "Waiohewa, or Ngae, settlement on the north- 
 eastern bank of Eotorua ... ... 11036 
 
 Pukeko, on the Eotoiti ... ... ... 10636 
 
 Omatuku, near Maketu ... ... ... 13886 
 
 East Coast : 
 
 Major Island (Tuhua) , highest point. . . ... 410f 
 
 Monganui mountain, at the entrance of the 
 
 Tauranga harbour ... ... ... 860f 
 
 Plate Island (Motonau), centrum ... ... 166f 
 
G2 
 
 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 English feet. 
 
 Whale Island, or Motu Hora, highest point ... HG7f 
 White Island, or Whakari ... ... ... 863f 
 
 Mount Edgcumbe, eastern summit ... ... 2575f 
 
 East Cape (East Cape Islet) ... ... 420f 
 
 Between the East Coast and the WaiJio River : 
 Waipapa brook, on the coast from Tauranga to 
 
 the Wailio ... ... ... ... 803ft 
 
 Heights of the Wanga chain, near the Wairere 
 
 falls ... ... ... ... ... 1414ft 
 
 Wairere river, immediately above the highest 
 
 falls ;.. ... ... ... ... 1442ft 
 
 Height of the pass over the Whanga chain, near 
 
 the Wairere falls ... ... ... 1481ft 
 
 The height of the Waiwere Falls . . . G70ft 
 
 Waiho Mats, near Wairere Falls ... ... 573ft 
 
 Whatiwhati, settlement at the foot of the Pate- 
 
 tere plateau ... ... ... ... 537ft 
 
 Castle Hill (Cape Colville chain) near Coro- 
 
 mandel Harbour ... ... ... IGlOf 
 
 MAP III. 
 
 THE ISTHMUS OF ATICKLANn AND ITS EXTINCT YOLCANOS. 
 
 THE great southern part of the Northern Island of New 
 Zealand is connected by a small isthmus with the north- 
 western peninsula, on the parallel circle of 37* S. lat. The 
 sea penetrates through the Hauraki Gulf 011 the Eastern 
 Coast, forming many branching creeks, and washes in a south- 
 westerly direction into the so-called Waitemata River upon 
 the north side of the peninsula. On the West Coast the 
 stormy weather side of New Zealand the ocean, penetrating 
 through hard volcanic rocks in a narrow entrance, spreads 
 out and forms the Manukau basin, the southern coast of this 
 isthmus. The land between the two seas is only some five or 
 six miles broad, and in two places where the Waitemata Biver 
 forms small creeks in a southerly direction towards the 
 Manukau basin it narrows to the width of one mile. These 
 narrow strips have been used by the Maoris from ancient 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 03 
 
 times to carry tlieir canoes from one side of the island to the 
 other, and this has given rise to the idea of forming a canal, 
 and thus uniting the two seas.* 
 
 AVhile the "Waiternata is the most central amongst the many 
 harbours of the East Coast, the Mauukau basin is, of all the 
 harbours of the "West Coast, the best, and the only one which is 
 available, without danger, for large ships. The clear-sighted- 
 ness of Captain Hobson, who, in 1840, recommended to the 
 British Government, as the most suitable situation for the 
 Capital of New Zealand, this isthmus, on both coasts of which 
 navigation is so easy and safe, and which is so centrally and 
 favourably situated for connecting both larger continents of 
 the Northern Island, deserves all commendation. No other 
 position in the Northern Island offers, by its central situation, 
 the advantages of so easy and safe a water communication in 
 all directions. Besides the numerous arms of the sea which 
 penetrate in manifold directions deep into the land, there are 
 numerous navigable rivers such as the Kaipara, "Wairoa, 
 Waikato, Piako, and "Waiho, all of which are of easy access 
 from this isthmus. 
 
 Auckland, the present capital of New Zealand, and the 
 principal town of the Province of Auckland, is the seat of 
 the Colonial and Provincial Governments, and was established 
 in the year 1840. It is situated on the northern side of the 
 isthmus, on the banks of the Waitemata. Of rapid growth, 
 and extending itself from year to year, in 1861 this city 
 numbered 8,000 inhabitants. More than this number occupy 
 the vicinity of the town and the country of the district of 
 Auckland. 
 
 A beautiful macadamised road leads from Auckland to 
 Onehunga, or the Manukau Harbour. Onehunga originally 
 a settlement of pensioners, who each received from the 
 Government a cottage and an acre of land has rapidly pro- 
 gressed, and is now a considerable town, and on account of its 
 pleasant position it is the favourite retreat of many of the 
 wealthier class of Auckland. Between Auckland and One- 
 
 * The western isthmus is the so-called Whau portage, which is one 
 mile wide, the highest elevation being 111 feet. The eastern isthmus is 
 the Tamaki portage, near Otahuhu, south of Mount Richmond, and is 
 only 3,900 feet long and 66 feet high, 
 
64 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 hunga are numerous country seats, villas, and farms. Along 
 the road, villages are rapidly forming, such as Newmarket, 
 Mount St. John, and Epsom. Every sign of the former 
 wildness of the isthmus has vanished. The old New Zealand 
 vegetation has given way to European, plants. Scoria walls 
 and green hawthorn hedges divide the various estates ; green 
 meadows, gardens, and fields charm the eye. Everywhere 
 herds of fine cattle are seen grazing in the fields. Omnibuses 
 are constantly passing on the roads, and the w r hole forms a 
 picture of a fresh and happy life. 
 
 The isthmus of Auckland is also one of the most interesting 
 volcanic districts of the globe. It owes its distinguishing 
 feature to a great number of extinct volcanos, with more or 
 less distinctly preserved craters and lava streams which form 
 extensive scoria fields at the foot of the hills, or with tuff- 
 craters which encircle the scoria cones like an artificial wall, 
 and are irregularly distributed over the isthmus and the 
 neighbouring banks of the Waitemata and Manukau. The 
 volcanic activity at each new eruption seems to have taken a 
 different course from the former, and divided itself into 
 numerous small cones. My map of the isthmus, which 
 extends over a district of 20 miles in length, by 12 in width, 
 shows not less than 63 independent points of eruption. 
 
 These are volcanos on the smallest scale, forming cones of 
 an elevation of from 300 to 600 feet above the level of the 
 sea. The highest amongst them is Eangitoto, which rises at 
 the entrance of the harbour of Auckland to the height of 900 
 feet. But they are perfect models of volcanic cones and 
 crater formation, and offer a large field of geognostic 
 observation, refuting entirely the theory of elevation craters 
 by Leopold von Buch.* 
 
 These mountains rise on a base consisting of tertiary sand- 
 stone and argillaceous marl, the horizontal and only locally 
 disturbed strata of which are easily recognisable on the steep 
 banks of the Waitemata and Manukau Harbours. The 
 examination of these isolated points of eruption gives proof 
 
 * A description in detail will foe given in the scientific publication of 
 the "Novara" expedition, and will appear in the volume which embraces 
 the geology of New Zealand* 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 65 
 
 of repeated and different volcanic outbursts in one and the 
 same locality. 
 
 The first eruptions probably sub-marine, at the bottom of 
 a well- sheltered bay consisted of loose masses, and of ruins 
 of the fundamental basis, scoria and ashes. These eruptions 
 took place in many shocks, following each other ; the masses 
 thrown out formed layers above each other and around the 
 place of outbreak, causing a flat rising cone, with more or 
 less circular or basin-like crater in the centre tuff-cone and 
 tuff-crater. The Pupuki Lake on the North Shore, the Orakei 
 Bay, east of Auckland ; Greddes' Basin, near Onehunga ; the 
 basin Waimagoia, near Panmure ; and Kohuora Hills south 
 of Otahuhu, are amongst other distinguished examples of such 
 tuff-craters. Like the Maren in the Eifel, these crater basins 
 are very deep and are filled with water. The sweet water 
 lake, Pupuki, has a depth of 28 fathoms, or 168 feet. * 
 They are sometimes flat, dry, or swampy. When they are 
 situated near the sea it has generally forced an entrance, 
 and ebbs and flows in and out of the crater basin. In con- 
 sequence of their rich and fertile volcanic soil these tuff-cones 
 hold an important position in the Province of Auckland 
 almost everyone of them is occupied by the homestead of a 
 settler. The practical shrewdness of these men has led them? 
 without geological knowledge, to settle at the basis or side of 
 these craters their flourishing meadows and clover fields 
 contrasting strongly with the fern and manuka scrub 
 (Leptospermum) of the clay soil. 
 
 With the beginning of the volcanic activity seems to have 
 commenced, although very gradually, a rise of the whole 
 isthmus ; so that the later eruptions took place above the sea. 
 In this second period, the volcanic activity increased to the 
 emissions of red hot masses of scoria and streams of lava. At 
 that time the Auckland volcanos were fire-spitting mountains 
 in the true sense of the word ; their steep cones at a slope 
 of 30 to 35 were formed of scoria, volcanic bombs, and lapilles 
 (Mount Eden, Three Kings, Mount Smart, Mount Wellington, 
 and many others), with deep, funnel-shaped craters, and where 
 
 * It is the opinion of the translator that the lake is connected by a 
 submarine channel with Rangitoto, which is the source of the lake. 
 
06 EXPLANATION OF THE MAI'S. 
 
 repeated eruptions followed each other out of one and the same 
 crater, cones of lava were formed again, like R-augitoto. "Where 
 these new eruptions followed the former course, new scoria 
 cones grew up within the ring of the tuft-crater, and according 
 to the number of the eruptions, or the sinkings which followed 
 the extinct volcanic activity, larger or smaller islets were 
 formed within, where water or swamp filled the tuft-craters. 
 The lava of all the Auckland volcanoes is pctrographically 
 identical. It consists of porous basalt lava, rich in olivin, 
 which makes a good building stone for the substantial erections 
 in Auckland, while the scoria cones afford an excellent material 
 for the roads of the isthmus. 
 
 The name of Eangitoto, which signifies " Sky of Blood," 
 would lead to the supposition that the Natives have given this 
 name in consequence of the reflection of the burning streams 
 of lava in the nightly sky, and that therefore the Auckland 
 volcanos have been in activity in very recent historical times ; 
 but this is improbable. That their activity belongs to the most 
 recent geological period of the earth, and to the geological 
 chronology of the present time, is proved by the fact that the 
 volcanic ashes cover the surface directly, and that the lava 
 streams have run by no means at one and the same time into 
 the neighbouring valleys. These have therefore existed at the 
 time of the emission of lava, and the surface of the district has 
 since that time undergone no material change. 
 
 Transformed through the diligence and enterprise of the 
 European settler into fertile cultivated districts, the Auckland 
 volcanos are but monuments of a remarkable history of the 
 Maori race. Only a few generations have passed since the 
 Auckland isthmus was the seat of a mighty Maori tribe the 
 Ngatiwatuas consisting of 20,000 to 30,000 men. These 
 extinct fire mountains, with their commanding situations and 
 wide prospects, occupied at that time, the position of hill forts, 
 like the feudal castles of Germany. On their summits were 
 the fortified pas of the chiefs, while at the foot of the hills were 
 distributed the huts and kumera "cultivations of the slaves. 
 The slopes of the hills were formed into regular terraces, and 
 fortified with palisades. The huts and houses are now destroyed ; 
 the palisades have disappeared ; the Maori feudal castles have 
 decayed ; the terraces and holes are the only remaining monu- 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE HAPS. 67 
 
 ments of a brave people which were annihilated in the bloody, 
 cannibal wars of Hongi, the " Napoleon of New Zealand," in 
 the years 1820 to 1830, and whose deeds live only in song and 
 tradition. 
 
 MAP IV. 
 
 ItOTO-MAHAJfA (OR THE WARM LAKE) AND ITS HOT SPBISGS. 
 
 THE Lake District, so called on account of its numerous lakes, 
 is situated about two days' journey from the Bay of Plenty. 
 It is almost exclusively inhabited by the natives, who have 
 selected the beautiful and fertile banks of Ilotorua and Tarawera 
 as their settlements. The Mission Station at Teinu (the Rev. 
 Mr. Spencer's residence) is at present the only European habi- 
 tation, and is the resort of many travellers and naturalists, 
 who visit the neighbourhood during the summer months. The 
 principal point of attraction of this region is Roto-mahana, or 
 the Hot Lake, with its wonders, a visit to which well repays 
 the fatigues of a few days' travelling through New Zealand 
 rush and swamps.* 
 
 It is one of the smallest lakes of the district, scarcely 
 exceeding in length three-quarters of a mile from north to 
 south, and in width a quarter of a mile. I hardly believe that 
 this small, dull-green lake, with its swampy borders, and the 
 surrounding barren and miserable-looking hills, which are 
 destitute of trees, and only covered with fern, would come up 
 to the expectation of the traveller, who has heard so much of 
 its wonders. That which makes it the most remarkable of all. 
 the lakes of New Zealand, nay even the most remarkable of all 
 spots of, the earth, lies mostly hidden from the view of the 
 new arrival except the immense clouds of steam which rise 
 everywhere which leads to the supposition that .in reality 
 nothing is to be seen. 
 
 * The journey from Auckland is generally made in from one to two 
 days by sea to Tauranga with a favourable wind. From Taurauga ono 
 can arrive in two days at Tarawera and Roto-mahana Lake, either direct 
 or by Maketu both roads equally bad. The return can be made over 
 the Patetere plateau to the Waikato Eiver, and from this by canoe to 
 Mangatawhiri, whence the Clreat South Road leads to Auckland. 
 
OS EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 
 
 The name of " Warm Lake " (Roto lake; mahana warm) 
 may in the full sense of the word be given to it. The masses 
 of boiling hot water which spring up along the banks and from 
 the bottom of the lake, are really collossal. Of course the 
 whole lake is warmed by them, but the temperature of the 
 water differs considerably in various places, as they are nearer 
 or further from, the springs. At many points, even in the 
 centre of the lake, the thermometer rises from 30 to 40 c., (86 
 to 104 F.) while near its stream I found it only 26 c. (78'8 F.) 
 The water is thick and swampy, and neither fish nor shell-fish 
 can live in it. Otherwise the lake is a favourite resort of innu- 
 merable aquatic birds, who build their nests on its warm 
 banks, while they find their food in the waters and swamps of 
 the cold lake Hoto-makariri. The natives shoot them at certain 
 seasons, but at other times they do not permit either Europeans 
 or themselves the pleasure of sport. The birds of Roto-mahana 
 are at this period strictly " tapu." 
 
 Visitors who intend to stay a few days at the lake are 
 recommended by the natives to select as their quarters the 
 small island Puai. This is a rock, 12 feet high, 250 feet 
 long, and nearly 100 feet wide. Small huts are there 
 erected, in which we made ourselves as comfortable as pos- 
 sible. But I believe that any one who did not know that 
 persons have lived here for several weeks, would only with 
 great difficulty be persuaded to remain here even for one 
 night. The continual roaring, rushing, singing, buzzing, boiling 
 sound, and the intense heat of the ground, impresses a feeling of 
 terror, and during the first night of my stay I awoke suddenly, 
 as the ground under me became so hot that I could not possibly 
 bear it. In examining the temperature, I made a hole in the 
 soft ground, and placed the thermometer in it. It rose imme- 
 diately to boiling-point, and when I took it out, a stream of 
 hot steam instantly ascended ; so that I hastened to cover it 
 again as fast as I could. Indeed, the whole island is nothing 
 but a torn and fractured rock, decomposed and softened by 
 steam and gases, which, almost boiled to softness, may at any 
 moment tumble to pieces, and vanish in the hot water of the 
 lake. Hot water bubbles up everywhere, either below the 
 surface of the lake or above it ; and wherever a hole is made in 
 the ground, or the crust removed which is formed over the 
 
EXPLANATION OE THE MAPS. 69 
 
 fissures of the rock, hot steam bursts forth, which we used for 
 cooking our potatoes and meat, spreading them on ferns, 
 according to native custom. 
 
 The centre of attraction and of interest is the eastern bank, 
 where are the most important of the springs, which indeed the 
 lake has to thank for its renown, and which are the most 
 magnificent and grand of all hot springs at present known. 
 
 Te Tarata is situated at the north-eastern end of the lake. 
 It lies 80 feet above the level of the lake, within a crater which 
 is open towards the side of the lake, and forms the principal 
 basis of this mighty bubbling spring. It is 80 feet long 
 by 60 feet broad, and filled up to the brim with clear boiling 
 water, which issues in the centre several feet higher, looking 
 beautifully blue in its snow-white incrusted basin. Enormous 
 clouds of steam, rising upwards, are reflected in the blue 
 mirror of the basin. The temperature of the water, which pro- 
 bably reaches to boiling-point in the centre, was 84 c. (183 '2 F.) 
 near the rim of the basin. The water is neither alkaline nor acid ; 
 it has a slightly salt taste, and possesses in a high degree the 
 property of petrifaction, or rather of incrustration. The sedi- 
 ment consists, as in the hot springs of Iceland, of silica, and 
 the overflow has formed on the slope of the hill a system of 
 crystal terraces, which, appearing almost as white as marble, 
 present a sight which it is impossible to describe. It is as if a 
 cascade, rushing over steps, had been suddenly arrested, and 
 transformed into stone. Each of these steps has a small 
 elevated rim, from which hang delicate stalactites ; and here 
 and there, on the smaller and broader steps, are formed water 
 basins. These blue basins, filled with crystal water, form 
 natural baths, which could not be surpassed by those con- 
 structed by the most refined luxury. One can select his 
 bathing-place either deep or shallow, small or large, and of 
 every temperature according to his taste, as the basins situated 
 on the heights near the source contain warmer water than 
 those of the lower steps. Home of the basins are so large that 
 a person can swim in them with comfort. Such is a description 
 of the celebrated Te Tarata spring. The natives assert that 
 the whole water in the principal basin is sometimes ejected 
 suddenly with vast force, and that it is possible to look into 
 the empty basin, thirty feet deep, which fills again speedily. 
 
 F 2 
 
70 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 A path leads from the foot of the Te Terata spring through 
 the bush to the great Ngahapu spring. The basin of this 
 spring is 40 feet long and 30 feet broad. The water within it 
 is in constant and dreadful agitation. It is only for a few 
 moments that the water is quiet in the cauldron, when it again 
 bubbles up, and is thrown eight to ten feet high ; and a foam- 
 ing surf of boiling hot waves stream over the walls of the 
 basin ; so that the observer is obliged timidly to retreat. The 
 thermometer rises in these springs to 98 c. (208 '4 F.) Fur 
 tlier south, close to the banks, is situated the Te Takapo spring 
 a boiling water basin of 10 feet in diameter, the geyser 
 eruption of which rises to a height of 30 to 40 feet. 
 
 Not far from this spring the traveller arrives at a hollow 
 called "Waikanapanapa (Variable Water), the approach to which 
 is covered with bush, and somewhat difficult, as one has to 
 pass several suspicious - looking places, where there is 
 danger of sinking in the boiling mud. The cavity itself 
 appears like the crater of a volcano ; the walls, bare of 
 vegetation, are rent and torn ; pieces and tongues of rock of 
 white, red, and ^blue fumarolic clay rising upwards like 
 spectres, threaten to fall every moment. The bottom is formed 
 of fine mud, and silicious stalactites, broken into every form 
 and variety, lie about like pieces of ice after the breaking up 
 of a frozen stream. Here is a deep pool filled with bubbling 
 mud there a cauldron full of boiling water near it a 
 dreadful hole which, with a hissing noise, ejects a column of 
 steam ; and further on small mud hills (fumaroles) , from two to 
 five feet in height mud volcanos, if the name may be applied 
 to them which, with a dull noise, throw out of their craters 
 boiling mud, and represent, 011 a small scale, the effects of large 
 volcanos. In the back-ground is situated a green lake named 
 Koto-punamu, an extinct spring. 
 
 Coming out of the north side of the cave is seen lying 
 picturesquely amongst rocks and bush the spring Rua Kiwi 
 (Kiwi Hole). It is an oblong basin of sixteen feet in length, 
 filled with clear simmering water. The banks of the lake 
 assume here a steep and rocky character ; hot springs bubble 
 out of them below the surface of the water, while on the 
 slope are situated, near the Ngawhana spring, the vacated 
 huts of a Maori settlement of the same name, and not far oft" 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 71 
 
 is the intermittent spring Koingo (the Sighing) , the emission 
 of water from which only takes place from three to four times 
 a day, and alternates with the neighbouring Whatapaho. 
 
 The above-mentioned springs are the principal ones ; on the 
 slope of a hill, rising about 200 feet above the level of the lake, 
 there are more than 100 places that eject steam. South of 
 this steaming hill the banks are lower ; on the south-east side 
 of the lake is situated the spring Khakaehu, with which are 
 connected a whole chain of boiling springs, ejecting partly 
 clear and partly muddy water from the swampy ground. In the 
 flats are several small cold-water lakes, and in the back-ground 
 rises a mountain Te Eangi Pakaru (Broken Heavens) on the 
 west side of which, from a crater-like hole, there steams a 
 mighty solfatara producing much sulphur. 
 
 On the western bank, the great terrace spring Otuka 
 Puarangi (Cloudy Atmosphere) , forms the counterpart of Te 
 Tarata spring. The stalactic steps reach to the lake, and one 
 ascends as on artificially formed marble steps, which are 
 decorated on both sides with green shrubs. These terraces 
 are not so grand as those of Te Tarata, but are more delicate 
 and of a beautiful pink hue, which adds a peculiar charm to 
 this wonderful formation. The basin of this spring is 40 to 50 
 feet in diameter, and appears as a calm, blue, glimmering, 
 steaming, but not boiling mirror of water. On the northern 
 side, at the foot of the terraces, is the solfatara "Whaka-taratara 
 a sulphur pool in the true sense of the word, from which a 
 hot muddy stream runs into the lake. 
 
 There are about twenty-five large hot springs or ngawlias, 
 as the natives call them at Roto-mahana. I dare not venture 
 to estimate the number of the smaller ones. And Eoto-mahana 
 is only one point of a rent above 150 miles long, and 17 wide, 
 between the active crater of Tongariro and that of the White 
 Island in the Bay of Plenty, throughout which hot water and 
 steam are ejected from the earth at innumerable points. 
 
 These grand thermal springs have proved most efficient in 
 curing diseases of the skin and rheumatism, so far as the 
 experience of the natives goes ; and it is not improbable that 
 in a few years Roto-mahana will be one of the most frequented 
 bathing-places for Australian and Indian invalids. The 
 map is the first that has been compiled of the lakes and springs, 
 
72 EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 
 
 and may serve as a guide to the tourist in this interesting 
 district. 
 
 Professor Dr. v. Fehling, of Stuttgart, has had the kindness 
 to analyse the waters of the lake and the stalactites. On 
 account of the small quantity of the water, a quantitative 
 analysis could not be made. 
 
 A. Analysis of the Water. 
 
 1. Te Tarata Spring, by Mr. Melchior. 
 
 2. Rua Kiwi Spring, by Mr. Melchior. 
 
 3. Roto Punamu, by Dr. Ivielmaier. 
 
 In 1000 parts of water was contained : 
 
 1. 2. 8. 
 
 Siliceous acid . . 0,164 0,168 0,231 
 Chlornatrium . . 2,504 1,992 1,192 
 
 Residue 
 
 B. ; 
 
 2,732 2,462 1,726 
 
 Stalactite, or Deposit of the different .Hot Springs 
 on the banks of the Roto-maliana. 
 
 1. Deposit of Te Tarata Spring : (a) soft, (ft.) hard. 
 
 2. of the Ngahapu Fountain, 
 
 3. of the Whatapoho Fountain, 
 
 4. . of the Otuka Puarangi Spring. 
 
 The analysis executed by Mr. Mayer gives : 
 
 1. 2. 3. 4. 
 
 Silica 
 
 a. 
 8603 
 
 b. 
 
 84,78 
 
 79,34 
 
 88,02 
 
 86,80 
 
 Water and organic substance 
 Oxide of Iron \ 
 Argillaceous earth ( 
 Chalk .... 
 
 11,52 
 1,21 
 045 ) 
 
 12,86 
 1,27 
 
 14,50 
 1,34) 
 3,87 
 0,27 
 
 7,99 
 2,99 | 
 
 11,61 
 
 Traces 
 0,36 
 
 Magnesia .... 
 Alkalies .... 
 
 0,40 [ 
 0,38 ) 
 
 1,09 
 
 0,26 ) 
 
 0,42 j 
 
 0,64 I 
 0,40 f 
 
 Traces 
 
 MAP Y. 
 
 WHATNGAROA, AOTEA, AND KAWHIA THREE HARBOURS OX 
 WEST COAST OF THE PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 THE contrast between a weather shore and lee shore coast 
 formation is nowhere so striking as between the west coast and 
 the north-east coast of the North Island of New Zealand. 
 "While, from the North Cape to the East Cape, the coast, 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 73 
 
 sheltered from the prevailing winds, presents a most irregular 
 outline, forming deep in the land many indented harbours, 
 navigable by the largest ships for example, the Bay of 
 Islands and the Waitemata or Auckland harbour with 
 numerous islands and capes ; the West Coast, which 
 is exposed to the westerly wind, is, on the other hand, 
 from Cape Maria Van Diemen to Cape Egmont, an almost 
 regular outline, slightly curved towards the east, and is formed 
 by a nearly uninterrupted chain of sandbanks. These sand_ 
 banks in many places, and particularly where there is no steep 
 or higher rocky coast in the background, reach a height of 500 
 to 600 feet, and when seen from the sea, appear like a chain of 
 mountains. The bays and creeks of the West Coast are, in 
 consequence of these sandbanks, locked up from the sea, and 
 are merely estuaries, navigable only through narrow entrances, 
 in which the sea ebbs and flows. At high water these 
 estuaries appear like large lakes, but at low water immense 
 mud flats, intersected by narrow channels, are laid bare. 
 
 On the West Coast are six of these estuaries, three north of 
 the Waikato the Manukau, Kaipara, and Hokianga harbours ; 
 and three south the Whaingaroa, Aotea, and Kawhia har- 
 bours. All these estuaries have this in common that the 
 sandbanks which are situated before their entrances, are 
 continually shifting their situation and form. This is most 
 prejudicial to navigation, and in consequence all these har- 
 bours, with the exception of the Manukau, which alone is 
 navigable by larger vessels, are only available for small 
 coasters. 
 
 The most southern of these harbours Aotea and Kawhia 
 are represented on this map. 
 
 The Whaingaroa harbour is a small sea inlet, six to seven 
 miles long, branching off in many directions, and divided into 
 two parts by a long peninsula. Into the northern bay flows 
 the Whaingaroa river, and into the southern the Waitetuna. 
 The harbour is only navigable for vessels of from 60 to 80 tons, 
 which generally anchor near the outlet ; but by boats it is 
 possible to keep up a communication with the most remote 
 branches. At low water the harbour is almost empty ; large 
 mud flats are exposed, the narrow channels only retaining 
 water, The Maori population of the neighbourhood amounts 
 
74 EXPLANATION OP TITK MAPS. 
 
 to about 400, and that of the European settlers to 122, there 
 being amongst the latter some twenty farmers with their 
 families. About a mile inland from the heads is the township 
 of Raglan. In 1S;">9 it consisted of from six to eight houses, 
 amongst which was, of course, a public-house and a store. Xol 
 far from .Raglan, also on the south side, is the "Wesleyan 
 Mission Station. Opposite, on the north side, is the Maori 
 village Korea, and an old pa. 
 
 The borders of the Waitetuna consist of a sandy clay marl, 
 of a tertiary age, containing some, but very few fossils : species 
 of Turritella, Isocardium, and Natica, also a Turbinolia, and 
 some beautiful foraminiferoe. The hills on the south side of 
 the harbour consist of many summits of basalt. Raglan is 
 situated on a soft ferruginous sandstone, which is nothing but 
 hardened sea sand. Opposite to Raglan, on the north side of 
 the harbour, and along the borders, is a most picturesque lime- 
 stone formation, consisting of tabular masses built up in 
 horizontal strata. Washed and eroded by the sea, these masses 
 assume the most singular shapes : towers sixty to seventy 
 feet high, high walls, columns, &c. 
 
 On the south side of the harbour is the Karioi mountain, an 
 extinct volcano of trachydolerite, with a broad and numerously 
 branched summit, which, penetrating for into the sea, forms a 
 very prominent object. 
 
 The Aotea harbour is an estuary which, behind its narrow 
 entrance, spreading out into a shallow bay of a width of 
 two to three miles, and a length of six miles, and which, with 
 the exception of a few very small channels, is at low water 
 almost dry. On the west coast is situated the Maori village 
 Rauraukauera, and a Wesleyan Mission School Beechamdale. 
 Four European families and 270 natives were the whole 
 population in 1859. Dieffenbach reckoned the number of 
 natives, in 1840, at 1200. 
 
 The geological conditions are simple and instructive, as 
 the formations seen apart in the Whaingaroa are here placed 
 super-imposed. They can best be observed in a high 
 cliff, situated on the southeast side, and visible from a 
 great distance, called by the Maoris Oratangi, which means 
 that stones foil here with much noise. At the bottom 
 lies a stratum of 40 feet of the same grey clay marl as that of 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAPS. 7-J 
 
 the "Whaiugaroa harbour, with very few petrifactions. I only 
 found one Inoceramus and a few pectens. Above this marl 
 are large banks of calcareous sandstone, rich in petrifaction. It 
 is the same formation as the tabular limestone of Whaingaroa, 
 the strata varying, some being more sandy, and others more 
 calcareous. At the Puketoa cliff, which stands at the edge of 
 the water, I collected petrifactions belonging to the following 
 genera : Pecten, Spondylus, Cuculaea, Terebratula, Hollicipes, 
 Scalaria, and Schizaster. The marl and sandstone formations 
 make hill land all round the Aotea harbour, which is indented 
 by innumerable small bays. Near the Heads the sandbanks 
 rise to a height of 300 to 400 feet, and traces of lignite may be 
 discovered at high water mark. 
 
 The Kawhia harbour, is from 6 to 7 miles long, 3 to 4 miles 
 broad, and is intersected by many navigable channels, between 
 which are laid bare at low water shallow mud and sandbanks. 
 The entrance to this harbour is narrowed to only half a mile by 
 a far extending land tongue Te Maika. At the entrance are 
 bars, which confine the navigation of the harbour only to 
 smaller craft. The coasting trade is partly carried on by 
 Europeans and by Maoris. Six European families are settled 
 on different localities of the harbour, and the number of natives 
 were in the year 1859 from five to six thousand. 
 
 The steep and abrupt coast wall of the south side of the 
 harbour, in the neighbourhood of Takatahi, is built up of steep 
 strata of sandstone and calcareous marl. It was here I had 
 the pleasure of finding the first New Zealand ammonites and 
 other petrifactions. (Ammonites now Ocelandicus, Inocera- 
 mus Haastii, &c.) In the south-westerly direction of Takatahi, 
 also on the south side, is Ahuahu, a land-point on the Waiha- 
 rakeke channel, in the neighbourhood of the Wesleyan Mission 
 Station, where there is a rich mine of belemnites (Belemnites 
 Aucklandicus var. minor). The cliffs are of clay, of a greenish 
 brown colour, the steep strata of which alternate with hardened 
 lime marl. At low water it is possible to collect the belemnites 
 at the foot of the cliffs in great numbers. The natives call them 
 Eoke-kanae, which means the excrements of the fish kanae. 
 
 The whole southern borders of the Kawhia Harbour consists 
 of strata containing belemnites and ammonites belonging to 
 the Jurasic system. The same tertiary argillaceous marl and 
 
76 EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS. 
 
 limestone which appear at the Aotea and Whaingaroa Harbours 
 appear also at the northern "bank of the Waiharakeke 
 River, forming the border walls and distributed in almost 
 horizontal strata over the whole south-eastern side to 
 the Awaroa River. At the Rakaunui River these chalk banks 
 reach to the water's edge, and form along the coast the most 
 picturesque rocks in the shape of towers and ruins, in conse- 
 quence of which this part of the Kawhia Harbour has been 
 designated the New Zealand Switzerland. The romantic and 
 various shapes assumed by the torn and worn masses of 
 rocks surprises the eye everywhere, while in the valleys, 
 where lie the villages of the natives, the rich fields of corn 
 and maize delight the beholder. I consider this as one of 
 the most beautiful and fertile districts of New Zealand which 
 I have seen. The character of the landscape remains the same 
 far up into the mountains, and 1000 feet above the harbour 
 white masses of rock penetrate through the verdure of the 
 forest and bush. Hence the name of Castle Hills for these 
 mountains, which the natives call Whenuapu. This neigh- 
 bourhood also possesses numerous caves. This limestone 
 formation appears also on the north side of the Kawhia 
 Harbour, in the Towara Bay, and on the Puti River ; it is 
 rich in large oysters and terebratulse. 
 
 The east side of the harbour consists partly of scattered 
 volcanic tufa and conglomerate, which are connected with the 
 trachy-dolerite chain of Pirongia. Over these mountains, 
 paths thickly covered with bush lead inwards to the Waipa 
 valley. 
 
III. 
 
 LECTURE ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE PROVINCE OF 
 NELSON. 
 
 BY DE. F. YON HOCHSTETTEE. 
 
 LADIES A^D GENTLEMEN, It is with much pleasure that I 
 respond to the wish expressed by you, and at the same time 
 fulfil my promise of communicating the results of my geolo- 
 gical explorations in a lecture on the geology of this Province ; 
 and it is with a feeling of pride that I see so large and distin- 
 guished an assemblage met here this evening. 
 
 On my arrival in Nelson, in the beginning of the month of 
 August, I hardly hoped to be able to extend my researches so 
 far as to obtain an accurate idea of the geological features of 
 the Province. The time allotted to me was very short ; the 
 geological field of the Middle Island, on which I was entering, 
 was, in comparison with that of the Northern Island, an entirely 
 new one. Entering into Blind Bay upon a bright morning, I 
 saw all round me lofty snow-covered mountain chains. It was 
 the middle of winter, and I doubted whether at this season of 
 the year extended geological researches were possible. This 
 doubt was soon removed ; the glorious weather which favoured 
 my excursions gave me full confidence in the far-famed and 
 deservedly-praised Nelson climate. My first exploration opened 
 up to me a field at once so interesting as regards scientific research, 
 and at the same time of so great practical importance, from 
 the existence of those very valuable substances, gold, coal, and 
 copper, that, in order to give greater value to the results o^ 
 my observations, I willingly resolved to respond to the wish of 
 the inhabitants, and to remain a month longer among you. 
 
 I feel myself in the highest degree obliged -to the inhabitants 
 of this Province, who, so soon as the ' Novara' arrived in 
 Auckland, invited the members of the expedition to visit 
 Nelson, for the honourable and hospitable reception, and for 
 the active assistance in the prosecution of my objects, which I 
 
78 THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 
 
 have met with on all sides ; and I wish to take this opportunity 
 of expressing my thanks to the Provincial Government for the 
 admirable arrangements which on its part were made so as to 
 extend to the utmost limit the sphere of my explorations, and 
 enable me to occupy to the greatest advantage the limited time 
 at my disposal. 
 
 Allow me, before proceeding further, to give you an account 
 of % my different journeys, and to detail to you the places which 
 I have visited. 
 
 I began in the immediate neighbourhood of the town of 
 Nelson, by a short excursion to Brook Street Valley, and a 
 visit to Mr. Jenkins' brown-coal mine. I then proceeded in 
 the ' Tasmanian Maid,' which the Government had chartered 
 for this extra trip, to Croixelles Harbour and Current Basin, 
 and examined the veins of copper ore which show themselves 
 there. 
 
 We proceeded up Current Basin as far as the French Pass, 
 and on our return landed in the Bight of Owhaua, on the 
 south-eastern corner of D'Urville's Island, where copper ore 
 is also found. Prom thence we steamed, without loss of time, 
 during the night, across to Grolden Bay, where I went on shore 
 at Collingwood, and visited the gold-fields and the bone caves 
 of the Aorere valley. Thence I proceeded along the coast to 
 Pakawau, and examined the coal-field there, and the graphite 
 which is found in the hill at Taumatea. Returning overland 
 from Golden Bay to Nelson, I visited, on the way, the Parapara 
 gold-field, the brown-coal deposit at Motupipi, followed the 
 course of the Takaka Yalley upwards, crossedthe mountain range 
 that divides the Takaka andEiwaka valleys, and passing through 
 Motueka, reached Nelson by the Moutere and the Waimea. 
 Another day was devoted to an examination of the Boulder 
 Bank and the Arrow Eock. I next proceeded by the valley of 
 the Maitai to an examination of the Dun Mountain. I next 
 visited the Wakapuaka district and the Happy Yalley ; and, 
 at a later date, in an opposite direction, spent some time in 
 examining the fossiliferous schists of Kichmond and the Wairoa 
 Valley. 
 
 After I had' made myself acquainted with the geological 
 relations of the nearer lying districts of Grolden and Blind 
 Bays, arrangements were made for a more distant excursion 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 79 
 
 in a southerly direction, to the "Wangapeka and the Lake 
 country, and in an easterly direction towards the Pelorus, the 
 AVairau, and the Awatere valley. My time was too limited to 
 enable me personally to undertake both these geological 
 explorations. I therefore availed myself of the friendly co- 
 operation of my friend and companion, Mr. J. Haast, who has 
 hitherto accompanied me on all my journeys in New Zealand. 
 My friend Haast proceeded by the * Tasmanian Maid ' to 
 Queen Charlotte Sound, landed in Maraetae bight, examined 
 the coast as far as Waikawa, and proceeded overland to 
 "Waitohi : thence by the "Waitohi Pass along the Tua Marina 
 to the "Wairau plain. Thence by the Taylor Pass Mr. Haast 
 proceeded to the Awatere, returning by Maxwell's Pass to the 
 Wairau. After an examination of the Waihopai valley, he 
 proceeded through the Kaituua to the Pelorus, and returned 
 by the Pelorus road to Nelson. I am indebted in the highest 
 degree to my friend Haast for the interesting and important 
 information which he has communicated to me concerning this 
 region, and for the disinterested zeal and the ability with 
 which he carried out his task of contributing to a knowledge 
 of the geological relations of the country visited, and also fora 
 valuable addition to my collections. 
 
 I myself took my way in a southerly direction towards the 
 Motueka and Waugapeka valleys ; crossed the chain of hills to 
 the Buller Eiver ; followed this upwards to the Eotoiti Lake ; 
 from thence made my way to the Top-house, in the "Wairau 
 valley, and returned by the Big Bush to Nelson. 
 
 I am thus enabled to say, that it has been possible for me 
 to obtain a general geological view over the whole of the 
 northern half of the Province of Nelson, from the Awatere 
 valley on the east to the Aorere valley on the west ; while the 
 cross valley of the Buller Eiver, between the Eotoiti Lake and 
 the gorge of the western mountain chain, indicates the 
 southerly limit of the district explored. 
 
 I have much to thank my Nelson friends for, both in the 
 way of information and contribution to my collections, and am 
 at the same time indebted to the various gentlemen who, in a 
 spirit of friendship, accompanied me on my journeys. 
 
 My best thanks are also due to the various settlers in whose 
 houses I have found such hospitable quarters. May I be 
 
SO THE GEOLOGY OF KELSOX. 
 
 allowed, without mentioning individual names, to express my 
 most sincere thanks to all these gentlemen for their active 
 assistance and valuable contributions to the ' Novara' collec- 
 tion. 
 
 I have begun to put together on. a map the results of my 
 observations, with the view of laying the foundation of a 
 Geological Map of the Province of Nelson. 80 soon as time 
 will allow me to complete this map, 1 will hand over to you a 
 copy of it with pleasure ; at the same time expressing a wish 
 that the numerous friends of geology among you, and if they 
 will allow me to say it, my geological scholars here, may 
 continue it and improve it, where I, either from want of time 
 or inaccessibility of the district, have not been able to fill in 
 the details. 
 
 I will now come to the subject matter of my lecture. 
 
 I. PHYSICAL FEATURES. 
 
 The character of the surface is always more or less indicative 
 of the geological structure of a country. Even to those who 
 have not deeply studied the science, the different forms which 
 mountain ranges show, will indicate a different geological 
 formation. The difference in these external appearances of 
 the country is very striking, if you come from the Northern 
 to the Southern Island. 
 
 In contrast with the comparatively low plateaus extending 
 over the largest part of the Northern Island, and broken only 
 by high volcanic peaks, you find on the Middle Island lofty and 
 abrupt mountain ranges', striking in long parallel chains, 
 divided by deep longitudinal valleys, and broken at right angles 
 by rocky gorges. This complication of rock and gorge runs as 
 the great backbone of the island from north-north-east to 
 south-south-west, and from strait to strait. Well do you name 
 it your " Southern Alps." Amongst them rises in grandeur a 
 mountain named after the great discoverer of the South Sea, 
 Mount Cook, of a height equal to Mont Blanc. It towers 
 above the rest, crowned with perpetual snow, with ravines 
 glistening with glacier ice. To the steep perpendicular cliffs 
 with which the Southern Alps breast the stormy sea on the 
 west coast, are opposed fertile plains extending along the 
 eastern shore. 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 81 
 
 From a central point, which (near the boundary line of the 
 two Provinces of Canterbury and Nelson) gives rise to the 
 Hurunui and "Waiau-ua Rivers, flowing to the eastward, and 
 to the Grey and Enungahua, flowing to the westward, the 
 Southern Alps send forth two arms through the Province of 
 Nelson, the extremities of which are washed by the waters of 
 Cook's Straits. These arms are again subdivided by longitu- 
 dinal valleys into numerous ranges, with peaks from five to six 
 thousand feet high. I will distinguish between the two arms 
 by giving the name of the " Western Ranges" to those which, 
 with a northerly strike, terminate in Massacre Bay, between 
 Separation Point and 'Cape Farewell, and the name of the 
 " Eastern Ranges" to those which, running in a north-easterly 
 direction, terminate in the Pelorous and Queen Charlotte 
 Sound. 
 
 In the acute angle between the two ranges are situated the 
 Lakes Rotoiti and Rotorua, from which undulating hills, 
 intersected by numerous streams, gradually slope from an 
 altitude of 2,000 feet to the plains of the "Wainiea and the 
 shores of Blind Bay. 
 
 I can hardly remember a more beautiful and more striking 
 scene than when I first looked, on a clear winter day, from a 
 high point on the Richmond Hills over the fertile Waimea 
 plains, lying like a map beneath my feet, studded with home- 
 steads and covered with cultivations, towards that triangle of 
 snow-capped ranges. 
 
 It is, without doubt, in consequence of the peculiar configu- 
 ration of the mountain ranges, that Blind Bay is favoured with 
 an extraordinarily temperate climate. The western and the 
 eastern ranges of Nelson, converging towards the south, form 
 a regular wedge, which diverts 011 the one side the force of the 
 south-westerly winds, and on the other side the force of the 
 south-easterly winds. Those parts of the Province of Nelson 
 which are not enclosed between the legs of the triangle, do not 
 enjoy the same serenity of climate. In G-olden Bay and in 
 the AVairau country, which lie respectively to the west and to 
 the east, in the line of the bounding ranges, gales of wind and 
 bad weather generally are much more frequent than in Blind 
 Bay. 
 
 The "spout wind," blowing with considerable violence 
 
82 THE GEOLOGY OP NELSON. 
 
 during the summer from the south, is a local wind of Blind 
 Bay, due to the same physical configuration of the country. 
 The calm heated air of the "Waimea plains and of the low hills, 
 rising in obedience to physical laws into the higher levels of 
 the atmosphere, is suddenly replaced by volumes of colder and 
 denser air, which rush down towards the plains from the 
 mountain ranges behind. 
 
 I have made these remarks in order to offer an explanation 
 of some of the most striking peculiarities of the Nelson climate 
 the Montpellier of New Zealand. 
 
 II. GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 
 
 The western and the eastern ranges of Nelson are totally 
 different in their geological character. The western ranges 
 consist of primitive formation, being built up of old crystalline 
 schists, or metamorphic rocks. The eastern ranges are the 
 oldest sedimentary strata, primary formation, broken through 
 in places by masses of plutonic rocks . The lower undulating 
 hills lying in the angle between the two ranges are nothing 
 but an immense accumulation of debris from the mountain 
 ranges on either side, rolled together by the action of the 
 sea, which in former ages washed the bases of the mountains. 
 
 "When I say Gold in the western ranges, Copper in the 
 eastern ranges, and Coal in the basins between them, I have 
 indicated the chief mineral characteristics of the region 
 referred to. I will now speak more in detail of the 
 
 (1) Primitive Formation oftlie Western Ranges, 
 
 Taking a cross section from east to west, through the 
 western ranges, we find the sub -divisions of the primitive forma- 
 tion succeeding to one another in their normal geological order. 
 
 (.) Gneiss and Granite Zone. The western shores of 
 Blind Bay, from Separation Point to Eiwaka, consist of 
 granite, bordered on the eastern side opposite to the Tata 
 Islands by gneiss. This same zone of granite and gneiss may 
 be traced in a southerly direction up the Motueka Biver to the 
 confluence of the "VVaugapeka, and is cut through by the 
 Buller Biver, Avhere it enters the gorge of the Devil's Grip on 
 the western ranges, and extends all along the eastern slope of 
 the mountains as far as the liotorua Lake. 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF KELSON. J> 
 
 (b.) Zone of Hornblende Schist and Clirijstalline Limestone 
 (JJrJcalk). Proceeding from the granite and gneiss towards 
 the west, we next meet, 011 the top of the Pikikerunga range, 
 between Biwaka and Takaka, a broad zone, on which horn- 
 blende-schists, quartz-schists, and crystalline limestone succeed 
 one another in regular and numerous alternating strata, with 
 a vertical dip and a strike nearly due north and south. This 
 formation continues in a westerly direction to the opposite side 
 of the Takaka valley, where it is broken through by eruptive 
 masses of diorite-porphyry and serpentine, which show them- 
 selves in the Stony Creek and "Waingaroa. The same zone of 
 crystalline schists exhibits itself in the steep escarpments of 
 the gorge of the Wangapeka. A characteristic feature of this 
 limestone formation is the existence of numerous funnel- 
 shaped pits, which have been hollowed out by the action of 
 water, which has dissolved the limestone. 
 
 The interesting phenomenon of the AVaikaroinuinu springs 
 in the Takaka valley, where whole rivers suddenly appear on 
 the surface with the water bubbling, is readily explained by a 
 subterranean passage of the water through the limestone from 
 the ranges. This crystalline limestone on the ranges must not 
 be confounded with the other limestone in the Takaka valley, 
 which belongs to the tertiary period. 
 
 (c.) Mica Schist and Quartz-Schist. The crest of the western 
 ranges, with peaks rising to an altitude of about 6,000 feet, the 
 Anatoki mountains, Mount Arthur, and the chain lying 
 between the source of the "Wangapeka Hiver and the Bullcr 
 river gorge, consists of mica schists, containing garnets, alter- 
 nating with quartz schists. 
 
 ((/.) Zone of Clan Slate. Still proceeding towards the \vest, 
 the mica-schists pass, by insensible gradations, into clay slates, 
 which, however, still exhibit the same alternating strata of 
 quartz-schist. The Aorere valley and the lofty peaks on its 
 eastern side, as the Slate Uiver peak, Lead Hill, Mount Olym- 
 pus, and the Haupiri range, generally belong to the clay-slate 
 zone. In all these ranges the strata are more or less vertical, 
 and exhibit unmistakable signs of great disturbance at former 
 geological periods. For instance, Mount Olympus presents 
 the peculiar appearance of strata diverging from below towards 
 the serrated edge of the mountain, like the folds of a fan. A 
 
 a 
 
88 THE GEOLOGr OF NELSON. 
 
 similar disposition of strata is observed on the loftiest summit 
 of Europe, namely, on Mont Blanc. 
 
 Gold. 
 
 In the mica-slate and clay-slate zone of the western ranges, 
 we have the matrix of the gold. Prom the interest attaching 
 to this subject, I may be allowed to repeat the limits of these 
 gold-bearing formations. On the east these formations are 
 bounded by the Takaka valley ; on the west by the Aorere 
 valley, so that its breadth is from fifteen to twenty miles, and 
 includes the Anatoki and Haupiri ranges. In a southerly 
 direction the same formations can be traced to the gorge of the 
 Buller river. How much further it extends in that direction 
 has not yet been ascertained ; but inasmuch as gold has been 
 found at the northern extremity of the Southern Alps, and 
 also in the gravels of the Mataura, in the Province of Otago, 
 towards the southern extremity of the backbone, it is not un- 
 reasonable to infer that the same gold-bearing zone may extend 
 continuously throughout the whole length of the Middle 
 Island. 
 
 Before speaking more specially of the gold-fields, I wish to 
 correct some of the theories popularly current among the 
 diggers, according to which gold is to be traced to the action of 
 fire. The gold, in its original position, is in larger or smaller 
 particles dispersed throughout the quartzose constituents of 
 the mica and clay-slate formations. By the gradual wearing 
 away of these rocks, through the action of the elements, 
 extending over immense periods of time, large masses of debris 
 have been formed, and nature itself has executed an operation 
 of gold-washing, by collecting the heavier particles and depo- 
 siting them in the gullies of the streams, or in the conglomerates 
 covering the slopes of the hills. 
 
 There are, therefore, two principal descriptions of diggings ; 
 either " river diggings," in the beds of the streams, or " dry 
 diggings," in the conglomerate and gravel accumulated on the 
 slopes of the mountains. 
 
 I will first describe the best-known and most worked of your 
 gold-fields namely, the Aorere and the Parapara gold-field. 
 
 The Aorere and Parapara Gold Field. You are all aware, 
 that the gold in the Aorere valley is confined to the eastern 
 
T1IE GEOLOGY OF KELSON. 89 
 
 side of the valley ; the only traces of gold found on the 
 western side are on the Kaituna stream, but not indicating 
 any rich deposit on that side, which, as fertile agricultural 
 land, must be left to the farmer. You know that all the 
 tributaries of the Aorere river proceeding from the Haupiri 
 range, as, for instance, Appoo's Eiver, the Slate River with its 
 different branches, the Boulder Eivers, Salisbury Creek, and 
 also the Parapara Eiver, which proceed northwards from the 
 same range, have been more or less successfully Worked by 
 various parties of diggers. The rounded nature of the gold 
 particles shows that the gold has been brought down by water ; 
 and the fact that the heaviest gold is found in the upper parts 
 of the streams, points clearly to the mountains as the source of 
 the metal. 
 
 But it would be improper to speak about an Aorcrc gold- 
 Held, if the gold were confined to the deep and narrow gorges 
 of the streams, cut down into the clay-slate rocks. 
 
 The whole region of the eastern side of the Aorere valley, 
 rising from the river bed towards the steep sides of the moun- 
 tains at an inclination of about eight degrees, and occupying 
 from the Clarke Eiver towards the south, to the Parapara on 
 the north, a superficial extent of about 40 English miles, is a 
 gold-field. Throughout this whole district, on the foot of the 
 range, we find a conglomerate deposited on the top of the slate 
 rocks, reaching in some places a thickness of twenty feet. 
 Pieces of driftwood changed into brown-coal indicate a probably 
 tertiary age of this conglomerate formation. Where a ferru- 
 ginous cement binds the boulders and the gravel together, this 
 conglomerate is compact ; in other places only fine sand lies 
 between the larger stones. Quartz and clay-slate boulders are 
 the most commonly met with. This conglomerate formation 
 is not only cut through by the deep gullies of the larger streams, 
 but in some places washed by the more superficial action of 
 occasional water, and so divided into parallel and rounded 
 ridges, of which that portion of the district called the Quartz 
 Eaiiges is a characteristic example. This conglomerate 
 formation must be regarded as the real gold-field, prepared in 
 a gigantic manner by the hand of nature, from the detritus of 
 the mountains, for the more detailed and minute operations of 
 man. 
 
 a 2 
 
90 THE GEOLOGY OF 2TELSO2S". 
 
 While the less extensive, but generally richer river-diggings 
 afford better prospect of gain to the individual digger, the dry 
 diggings in the conglomerate will afford remunerative returns 
 to associations of individuals who will work with a combina- 
 tion of labour and capital. The intelligent and energetic gold- 
 digger, Mr. Washbourn, is the first person who has proved the 
 value of the dry diggings in the Quartz Ranges, and has 
 demonstrated the fact that gold exists in remunerative quan- 
 tities in the conglomerate. I am indebted to Mr. Washbourn 
 for the following interesting details. He w r rites to me as 
 follows : " In the drives into the conglomerate of the quartz 
 ranges, the average thickness of dirt washed is about two feet 
 from the base rock ; and the gold produced from one cubic 
 yard of such earth would be, as nearly as I can calculate, worth 
 from twenty-five to thirty shillings. This includes large 
 boulders ; so that a cubic yard of earth, as it goes through the 
 sluice, is of course worth more, as the boulders form a large 
 proportion of the whole. Where the earth is washed from the 
 surface to the rock, the value per cubic yard is much less not 
 worth more, perhaps, than from three shillings to six shillings 
 per yard, and it would generally pay very well at that." 
 
 With this data, the following calculation may be made. We 
 will reckon the superficial extent of the Aorere and Parapara 
 gold-fields at thirty English square miles ; the average thickness 
 of the gold-bearing conglomerate, at a very low. rate, at one 
 yard ; and the value of gold in one cubic yard at five shillings. 
 Upon this data, the value of the Aorere gold-field is 
 22,500,000, or 750,000 for one square mile. 
 
 I am not a practical gold-digger myself, but I will leave it io 
 those who are more versed in that pursuit to contrive the 
 means by which this wealth may be best extracted from the 
 soil. Considering that Mr. Washbourn was able to pay his 
 men wages from ten to twelve shillings a day, and still to make a 
 considerable profit, the richness of the deposit of gold in the 
 conglomerate is clearly proved. 
 
 You may allow me to add, from inquiries I made on the spot, 
 the number of diggers working on the Aorere and Parapara dig- 
 gings is not more than about two hundred and fifty. Although 
 the diggers cannot be at work continually, a large portion of 
 time being occupied in bringing their provisions across a 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 91 
 
 rugged country ill-provided with roads, and occasionally 
 stopped by floods in the rivers, it is considered that a digger 
 earns on an average twelve shillings a day. 
 
 The history of the gold-field does not record any large 
 fortunes made by single diggers, but steady average gains. 
 The largest nugget found was in the Rocky Biver, a nugget of 
 9 oz. 18 dwts. 
 
 The whole produce of the gold-field from the beginning, in 
 1857, up to the middle of August, is recorded, in the Greneral 
 Grovernment G-azette, as about 150,000. 
 
 I may add that, looking to the position of the gold-field 
 generally, and its proximity to the sea, there is probably no 
 other gold-field which, with moderate outlay upon roads, 
 could be made more easily accessible, or might afford greater 
 facilities for being worked. I have very little hope that quartz 
 reefs will be found in this district rich enough to pay for 
 crushing. 
 
 The country on the western side of the gold-bearing ranges, 
 further south than the Clarke Biver, has not yet been perfectly 
 explored with regard to probable gold-fields, and I proceed, 
 therefore, to the eastern side of the gold-bearing formations. 
 
 I may remark that there is no foundation for the belief, so 
 generally entertained amongst diggers, that gold-fields are 
 only found 011 the western side of ranges, and not on the 
 eastern. 
 
 The Anatold and Takalm Diggings. From the same mica- 
 slate and clay-slate zone, from which on the western side the 
 gold-bearing branches of the Aorere valley run, on the eastern 
 side the Takaka river with its branches takes its rise. It is 
 therefore not surprising that gold is also found on those 
 rivers. If the farmer settled on the rich alluvial plains of the 
 Takaka finds markets bad, he has but to ascend to the higher 
 parts and branches of the river to fill his pocket. Grold is 
 found in sufficient quantity to pay river diggings in the upper 
 Anatoki, Waingaro, and Takaka, the heaviest nuggets in the 
 Waitui river, which takes its rise from the Mount Arthur 
 range. In the Anatoki valley a quartz reef is spoken of which 
 promises well. The interesting metal, osmiridium, as has been 
 proved by specimens forwarded for analysis to Mr. Clarke, of 
 Melbourne, is a peculiar accompaniment of the Takaka, 
 
92 T1IE OEOLOUl' OF KELSON. 
 
 Titaniferous iron, magnetic iron, and garnets not rubies a* 
 generally thought are everywhere found on the river diggings 
 of the Province. It must be left to the energy of future 
 explorers to determine if there be not, as it is most probable 
 there is, a similar gold-field as the Aorere gold-field, hidden 
 under the dense forests on the eastern slope of the ranges. 
 
 Wangapeka. With a view to exploring the country lying to 
 the south of the Takaka, on the eastern side of the gold-bearing 
 formations, I made a journey to the "Wangapeka. My guide 
 to that country, most difficult of access, was Mr. Clarke, who 
 had formerly been prospecting there for gold. On this occa- 
 sion I had the pleasure of the company of the Superintendent. 
 The Wangapeka, as large if not larger than the Motueka, near 
 its junction with the Sherry River, runs through a wide terraced 
 valley. 
 
 The hills bordering the valley are composed of tertiary 
 strata, marl, sandstone, and limestone. At places on the sides 
 of the valley, granitic rocks show themselves as the foundation 
 of the tertiary strata. The boulders and shingle brought by 
 the river from the deep gorge, through which it enters the 
 broad valley, prove, on examination, that the river takes its 
 origin in a zone of hornblende-schists, and crystalline lime- 
 stone, the continuation of the formations between Takaka and 
 Riwaka. There is therefore no reason to expect an auriferous 
 river-bed. I might here mention that this valley seems the 
 peculiar home of wild pigs, the immense number of which have 
 rooted up the whole surface. The wet weather we experienced 
 prevented my exploring those rivers which take their rise 
 further westward, in the mica-slate and clay-slate ranges as I 
 expect, as, for instance, the Batten River and its branches. It 
 was here that Mr. Clarke found the best result of his prospect- 
 ing expedition. He found not only gold, but, on the edges of 
 the tertiary formation towards the crystalline ranges, large 
 seams of coal cropping out. 
 
 As a very probable gold country, I should recommend the 
 exploring of the high range situated between the sources of 
 the "Wangapeka and the gorge of the Buller. That range is, so 
 far as I can judge, the continuation of the Mount Arthur, 
 Anatoki, and Haupiri ranges. 
 
 I shall hereafter find an opportunity to remark upon the 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 93 
 
 Motueka diggings, and will conclude this portion of my 
 lecture by stating that the Nelson gold-fields are a fact, and 
 that which is at present known is but the beginning of a series 
 of discoveries which time will bring to light. 
 
 With regard to other minerals in the western ranges, there 
 are 110 indications of quicksilver, as it was supposed, But Mr. 
 Skeet informed me that pieces of lead ore are found in the 
 AVaingaro River ; and large masses of brown iron ore, which 
 have been mistaken, from their somewhat similar appearance, 
 for scoria, are deposited at the Parapara. This has given rise 
 to the idea of the Parapara being volcanic. 
 
 (2.) Primary Formations in tlie Eastern Hanges. 
 
 The eastern ranges are of an entirely different geological 
 formation to those just described in the west ; old primary 
 slates and sandstones, of very various character, form lofty 
 ridges, intersected by parallel longitudinal valleys. The strata 
 are all more or less vertical, and the parallelism of their strike 
 from north-east to south-west continues with remarkable 
 regularity. One and the same stratum can be traced from 
 Cook's Straits to the far interior in the south. 
 
 In the central ridge, which has its northern termination in 
 Mount Stokes, between the waters of the Pelorus and Queen 
 Charlotte Sound, the slates exhibit a more crystalline character. 
 At Ship's Cove and Shakespeare Bay in Queen Charlotte 
 Sound, in the Kaituna Pass and other places, almost crystalline 
 micaceous clay-slates, with quartz layers and veins, occur. 
 
 On either side of this central ridge the slates exhibit a more 
 sedimentary character, alternating with dioritic-schists, with 
 amygdaloids, with very compact sandstones, approaching the 
 character of graywacke. As no fossils have yet been found in 
 those oldest sedimentary New Zealand schists, it is impossible 
 to assign to them their geological place in a European classifi- 
 cation of strata. 
 
 The slate and sandstone ridges are flanked by serpentine. 
 
 Below the confluence of the Blarich River with the Awatere, 
 where the side of the mountain has slipped with an earthquake 
 rent, serpentine appears. The Grey Mare's Tail is a waterfall 
 over a serpentine cliff. The serpentine extends, in a south- 
 westerly direction, through the Blarich valley towards Mount 
 
94 THE GEOLOGY OP NELSON. 
 
 Mowatt, whose south-eastern slope to a height of about 2000 
 feet is composed of serpentine. In the bed of the Blanch 
 Elver, Mr Haast found a piece of copper ore of the same 
 description as the Dun Mountain ores. 
 
 On the western side, the serpentine occurs developed to amuch 
 greater extent. An immense serpentine dyke, of a thickness of 
 several miles, stretches from the northern extremity of I) ' Ur ville ' s 
 Island, across the French Pass, through the Croixelles, by the 
 Dun Mountain and Upper "Wairoa, and is met with again, on 
 a continuation of the same straight line, on the Red Hills, 
 near the Top-house, on the northern side of the "Wairau valley. 
 This dyke can thus be traced from north-east to south-west for 
 a distance of eighty miles. The strike of the serpentine dyke 
 is perfectly parallel to that of the slates, but its eruptive origin 
 is proved by the occurrence of a breccia of friction (Reibungs 
 breccia) at the line of contact, and the fact of beds of slate 
 enclosed in it being converted into hard and semi-vetrified 
 cherts. The serpentine, in its turn, has been broken through 
 by eruptive dykes of hypersthenite and gabbro. The rock of 
 the Dun Mountain proper is a variety of serpentine, of so 
 novel and peculiar a character that I am obliged to apply to it 
 a new term, and call it " Dunnite." The Dun Mountain 
 district offers to the scientific geologist a field of unbounded 
 interest ; but I shall perhaps best respond to the wishes of my 
 audience by telling them something about the ores of copper 
 and chromate of iron which are the characteristic metals of 
 that serpentine dyke. 
 
 Copper. 
 
 The occurrence of native copper, red oxide of copper, and 
 copper pyrites, the principal copper ores of the Dun Mountain, 
 is by no means peculiar to the serpentine of New Zealand. In 
 the serpentine district of Cornwall, for instance, native copper 
 is found. The Monte Eamazzo, near Q-enoa, contains copper 
 ores in serpentine, and in North America the same thing 
 occurs. 
 
 I have visited (accompanied by Mr. Hacket and Mr. "Wrey) 
 all the workings of the Dun Mountain. I could not convince 
 myself of the existence of a number of parallel lodes, so as to 
 justify the various names which have been given, and which 
 appear to designate different lodes. The Dun Mountain 
 
THE GEOLOGY OE NELSON. 95 
 
 copper ore does not occur in a regular lode ; by which I mean 
 a metalliferous dyke of different mineral composition from that 
 of the rock of the mountain. As is usual in serpentine, the 
 copper ore occurs only in nests and bunches. The richer 
 deposits of copper ore form lenticular shaped masses, which, 
 when followed, may increase to a certain distance, but then 
 disappear again in a thin wedge. Where these nests are large 
 and rich, one alone may sometimes make the fortune of a mine. 
 The richest found on the Dun Mountain appears to have been 
 that of the Windtrap Grully, from which pieces of native 
 copper (some of them weighing as much as eight pounds) were 
 extracted. These nests of copper ore occur in the Dun 
 Mountain in one continuous line, as if a rent had taken place 
 in the serpentine rock, into which copper had either been 
 injected from beneath, or deposited there by the operation of 
 some cause* which science is unable to explain. The green 
 and blue silicates of copper are surface minerals, which are 
 only of value by showing the direction of the fissure in which 
 the real ore may be looked for at a greater depth. At a 
 certain distance below the surface, they disappear entirely, 
 and it is only by the broken and softened character of the 
 serpentine that the miner is enabled to follow the fissure from one 
 deposit of metal to the other. The occurrence of the best 
 indications of copper ore on the surface over a continuous 
 line of about two miles, affords good ground for supposing that 
 considerable quantities of ore are contained in the mountain ; 
 but, on the other hand, owing to the manner in which the ores 
 occur in isolated bunches, mining operations in such a region 
 are always attended by less certain profits than where the 
 metal is deposited is a regular lode ; and I may be allowed to 
 express a hope that the Dun Mountain may prove to be all 
 that the Nelson people could wish. 
 
 In Croixelles and in Current Basin, where copper mining 
 operations have been carried on, the indications were very 
 obscure, and the result has proved that there is no reasonable 
 ground to expect a profitable copper mine there. More 
 promising specimens of copper ore have been obtained from 
 D'Urville's Island. The character of the ores met with there 
 is quite the same as in the Dun Mountain. 
 
 I will add a few worcls about chromate of iron, 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP NELSON. 
 
 mineral is an ordinary accompaniment of serpentine rock, and 
 occurs in the Dim Mountain in great force. Of its commercial 
 value I do not feel myself qualified to speak, but should its 
 value be considerable, the abundance of it is so great that it 
 must prove a source of much wealth to the mine. 
 
 Having described the central parts of the western ranges, 
 and the serpentine which flanks it, there still remains to me to 
 describe a zone of old sedimentary rock, which lies between the 
 serpentine on the east, and Blind Bay and the "Waimea plain on 
 the west. The best section of this zone is obtained by following 
 up the course of the Maitai to the Dun Mountain. Imme- 
 diately to the west of the serpentine we meet with a belt of 
 calcareous schists, which attains its highest elevation on the 
 summit known as the Wooded Peak, and continues on its 
 strike parallel with the serpentine dyke. Proceeding to the 
 westward, we pass over a band of greenish and reddish coloured 
 slates, of a thickness of about five English miles. The same 
 description of slates continues all along the ranges, as far as 
 the Big Bush road to the Wairau. The absence of any fossil 
 remains in the calcareous schists and in the slates prevents 
 me from assigning to them with confidence their geological 
 age. I give them therefore a local name, and call them the 
 Green and Eed Maitai Slates. In places these slates are broken 
 through and altered by eruptive rocks, as, for instance, in 
 Brook Street valley by diabase, and near Wakapuaka by 
 
 sienite. 
 
 (3.) Secondary Formations. 
 
 Between Nelson and Wakapuaka, black slates and shales 
 are found close to the edge of the water. In these we find the 
 first indications of organic remains. Of the nature of these 
 organic remains I have not been able perfectly to satisfy 
 myself; they appear, however, to belong to the vegetable 
 kingdom, and have more resemblance to sea-weeds than any- 
 thing else. 
 
 In the same line, further south, the Richmond sandstones 
 form the boundary of the western ranges. No less interest 
 attaches to these sandstones, which contain many and perfect 
 fossil molluscs, and are, so far as I know, the oldest fossiliferous 
 strata in the Province. The fossils belong to the genera 
 Mytilus, Monotis, Avicula, Spirifer, Terebratula, which seem 
 
TILE UEOLOGY OF NELSOX. 97 
 
 to indicate a secondary age for the formations. If I were to 
 trace any analogy between these strata and any European 
 formation, I should say that they occupied in New Zealand 
 the place filled by the Muschelkalk in Europe. 
 
 I have described now the formations of the higher ranges of 
 the Province. Before leaving them I will observe that they 
 possess an extraordinary interest for the botanist. Dr. Monro 
 and Dr. Sinclair have brought from those regions specimens 
 of the greatest interest, and new to science. And a large 
 field is still open for those who will follow in their steps. 
 
 Zoologists may be surprised to hear that on the top of 
 limestone ranges between 3,000 to 4,000 feet high, at the 
 Pikikerunga and the Maunga-tapu, a large land snail, or helix, 
 is found, as large as the Helix Busbyi of the Northern Island. 
 Mr. Skeet found a live specimen on the Anatoki mountains ; 
 and to Mr. "W. Askew, at Kiwaka, I am indebted for a perfect 
 specimen of that new and rare shell. 
 
 Pukawau Coal Fields. 
 
 I come now to speak about the Pakawau coal-field, as 
 probably belonging to the secondary period. The Pakawau 
 coal-field overlies the mica and clay-slate formations of the 
 western ranges. The Pakawau stream exposes various strata 
 of the coal-field, its conglomerate, sandstone, shales, and seams 
 of coal. There have been workings on the exposed seams on 
 both sides of the stream. A quantity of coal extracted from a 
 seam of four feet thickness on the north side, which has lain 
 exposed to the weather for two years, and still remains in the 
 condition in which it was extracted, at once convinced me of 
 the difference existing between this coal and the other New 
 Zealand coals which I have seen. The coal is a dense, heavy, 
 black coal, of a laminated structure, breaking in. large pieces 
 which do not crumble. In the evening I burned the coal in 
 a fireplace, and was pleased with the large amount of flame and 
 heat given out by it, without sulphureous or other disagreeable 
 smell. It burned away to a clean white ash. Mr Curtis has 
 kindly forwarded to me an analysis of this coal, made in the 
 year 1853, by Mr. Theoph. Heale, at Auckland. Mr. Heale 
 proved the excellent qualities of the coal as a gas coal ; the 
 quantity of carbon (not more than 53 per cent.) would not 
 
98 THE GEOLOGY OF NELSOX. 
 
 confer upon this coal a high character as fuel ; but this low 
 per-centage probably arose from the piece submitted to analysis 
 being mixed vith shale. To me it appears that the coal must 
 contain at least 70 per cent, of carbon, and that it will be found 
 a very excellent coal for steam purposes. 
 
 On the southern side of the stream, the old workings exhi- 
 bited the following sections : 
 
 Shale 
 
 Coal ... ... ... Oft. 5m. 
 
 Shale ... ... ... 
 
 Coal ... ... ... 
 
 Sandstone ... ... 
 
 Coal 1 
 
 Shale 
 
 Thus, the natural sections and the old workings show various 
 seams, but none of them of great thickness, and in all of them 
 more or less bands of shale. 
 
 The dip of the seam is towards south-west that is, towards 
 the West Wanganui harbour, at an angle of twenty degrees, 
 and the coal-field reaches, undoubtedly, from Pakawau to "West 
 Wanganui. In $ coal-field of such extent, it may be with 
 confidence affirmed that seams of much greater thickness exist, 
 and the way to ascertain their existence, is to make borings. 
 That is the first thing for any company to do which undertakes 
 to work this very valuable coal-field. My reason for assigning 
 to this coal-field a secondary age, is the existence of impressions 
 of fossil plants, referable to calauiites, ferns, and dicotelydones- 
 Although the Pakawau coal-field does not belong to the 
 carboniferous period, experience will show that the coal will 
 rank in quality with the black coals of older date. 
 
 I proceed from these older coals to the tertiary period and 
 the brown-coal formation. 
 
 (4.) Tertiary Formations. 
 
 The tertiary formations which I observed in the districts of 
 G-olden and Blind Bays belong to that group which I men- 
 tioned in my Auckland lecture as the older one. All the wide 
 valleys and basins which from the shores of Cook's Straits ran 
 inland between the high primitive and primary ranges, are 
 
IKE GEOLOGY Ol 1 NELSON. 99 
 
 filled with tertiary strata, which at some place* attain an 
 altitude of 2000 feet. 
 
 This formation is divided into two parts : the lower, or a 
 brown-coal formation ; the upper, fossiliferous marl, sandstone, 
 and limestone. 
 
 I will give a short description of these strata, from Cape 
 Farewell to Awatere. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact that at Cape Farewell, the north- 
 westernmost point of the Middle Island, where the sea swarms 
 with echinides, commonly called sea-eggs, the tertiary sandstone 
 clift's are also found full of fossil remains of the same family, 
 but differing in species. 
 
 In the Aorere valley the original tertiary strata are, by later 
 action, for the most part destroyed. On the western side of 
 the valley indications of brown-coal have been found. On the 
 cliffs of Collingwood, marls, containing few fossils, are the 
 representatives of the formation. 
 
 Higher up the valley large isolated masses of a fossiliferous 
 calcareous sandstone, or, if you will, of a sandy limestone, 
 penetrated by numerous cares, are the remains of a once 
 continuous tertiary stratum. 
 
 The caves above Washbourn's Flat, in these isolated lime- 
 stone blocks, have lately become famed as bone caves, the 
 cemeteries of gigantic birds, which, in the traditions of the 
 Maoris, are remembered as the frightful Moas, and which to 
 science are known as the genera of Dinornis, JVofornis, and 
 Palapterkv. 
 
 When, iu. 1857, I saw in the British Museum the skeletons 
 of Dinoniis elepltantopus and Dinornis robust us, I little thought 
 that I should so soon be in possession of the same treasures. 
 
 Before my arrival at Collingwood I had heard of the late 
 discovery of Moa bones in those caves, and I was anxious to 
 procure those specimens, which I had had so little success in 
 obtaining in the Northern Island. 
 
 In the first cave which I entered my friend Haast has 
 since given it my name after a short search, I dug out frag- 
 ments of bones from the loam on the bottom of the cave. I 
 was convinced that the treasures had not all been carried away, 
 as from the caves in the Northern Island ; and on the same 
 day the finding of a Moa skull so far as I know the most 
 
100 THE GEOLOGY OF NELS02T. 
 
 perfect yet found in New Zealand was the reward of further 
 researches. 
 
 Being obliged myself to leave for the Pakawau coal-field, my 
 friend Haast remained behind in company with the young 
 surveyor, Mr. Maling, to make more extensive researches. The 
 bottom of a second cave, the Stafford's cave, was turned up, 
 and the bottom of a third one, the Moa Cave. The excitement 
 of the moa-diggers was great, and increased ; for the deeper 
 they went below the stalagmite crusts covering the floor, the 
 larger were the bones they found, and whole legs, from the 
 hip-bone to the claws of the toes, were exposed. They dug 
 and washed three days and three nights, and on the fourth 
 day they returned in triumph to Collingwood, followed by two 
 pack-bullocks loaded with moa bones. 
 
 I must confess that not only was it a cause of great excite- 
 ment to the people of Collingwood, but also to myself, as 
 the gigantic bones were laid before our view. A Maori bring- 
 ing me two living kiwis fromEocky River gave us an opportunity 
 to compare the remains of the extinct species of the family 
 with the living Apterix. 
 
 It gives me much pleasure to acknowledge the zeal and 
 exertions of my countryman and friend Haast, in adding such 
 valuable specimens to the collections of the 'Novara' expedition. 
 The observations of M. Haast, made during this search, throw 
 a new light upon this great family of extinct birds. He found 
 that according to the depth so was the size of the remains, thus 
 proving that the greater the antiquity the larger the species. 
 The bones of Dinornis crassus and Palapterix ingens (a bird 
 standing the height of nine feet) were always found at a lower 
 level than the bones of Dinornis didiformis (Owen) of only four 
 feet high. 
 
 I have the pleasure of showing you here a leg of Dinornis 
 crassus.* 
 
 I have since had my collection of bones increased by various 
 
 Circumference 
 
 Long. of the Shaft. 
 
 * Tarsus ... 94 in. . . 6 '9 in. 
 
 Tibia - - , . 22 - 6'G 
 
 Femur - 13 i>'0 
 
 Spread of the claws 15 
 
THE GEOLOGY OF KELSON. 101 
 
 contributions from Messrs. Wells, Haycock, and Ogg, and a 
 nearly perfect skeleton of Palapterix inyens presented by the 
 Nelson Museum to the Imperial G-eological Institution of 
 Vienna. 
 
 These gigantic birds belong to an era prior to the human 
 race, to a post-tertiary period. And it is a remarkably incom- 
 prehensible fact of the creation, that whilst at the very same 
 period in the old world, elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopotami 
 in South America, gigantic sloths and armadillos ; in Australia, 
 gigantic kangaroos, wombats, and dasyures were living ; the 
 colossal forms of animal life were represented in New Zealand 
 by gigantic birds, who walked the shores then untrod by the 
 foot of any quadruped. 
 
 A characteristic of the tertiary formation of the Takaka 
 Y alley is large masses of fossiliferous limestone, beginning at 
 the Tata Islands, and extending far up the valley. Under the 
 limestone lies the Motupipi brown coal formation, which can 
 be traced up the valley as far as Mr. Skeet's. I am indebted 
 to Mr. James Burnett for carefully drawn and instructive 
 plans and sections of the Motupipi working, which at once 
 placed before me the character of the coal-field and the succes- 
 sion of the strata.* I need not here repeat what I have so 
 
 * SECTION OF STKATA AT MOTUPIPI, MASSACRE BAY. 
 
 No. 1 SHAFT. 
 Surface Clay ft. in. 
 
 Coal ... 1 9 
 
 Shale 2 
 
 ft. in. 
 Coal ... 24) 
 
 Band of Shale 5 \ Working Seam 5 1 
 
 Coal ... 24) 
 
 Shale of a sandy nature ... ... ... ... .. 3 5 
 
 Coal 1 3 
 
 Soft Sandstone, composed of very rough sand, like crushed 
 quartz, with thin beds of shale ; this stone falls away to 
 loose sand under the pick, but stands very well in the snaft 7 
 Shale (pretty good roof) ... ... ... ... ... 2 
 
 Coal, with a great deal of water, sunk 2 ft. 7 in., and bored 
 
 2 ft. more to the bottom of this seam , 4 7 
 
 t 
 
 27 1 
 Bored 1 ft . further in shale 10 
 
 28 1 
 
102 THE GEOLOGY OF KELSON. 
 
 recently said at Auckland with regard to the quality and 
 economical uses of this coal. The Motupipi coal is of the 
 same geological age, and of the same description, as the Drury 
 coal at Auckland. It is to be regretted that works commenced 
 with so much judgment and regularity, and which might easily 
 be continued, should be no longer carried on, in consequence 
 of the high price of the fuel, and the difficulty of putting it 
 on board the ship. To obviate the last difficulty, Mr. Burnct 
 proposes a coal depot at the Tata Islands, where vessels could 
 easily take it in. 
 
 Tertiary Formation of Blind Sat/. 
 
 That the waters of Blind Bay at one time extended much 
 further to the south, and covered a larger area, than they do 
 now, is proved by the fact of a tertiary formation filling up 
 the space between the eastern and western ranges from the 
 lake country to the shores of the "Wairaea ; but for the most 
 part this formation- is again covered by a more recent deposit 
 of rolled stones, gravel, and diluvium, which at some places 
 
 SECTION OF STRATA AT MOTUPIPI, MASSACRE BAY. 
 
 No. 2 SHAFT. ft. in. 
 
 Sea sand ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4 6 
 
 Clay 1 
 
 Soft sandstone , 10 8 
 
 Sandstone (very hard) ... ..I ... ... ... 1 
 
 Shale (good roof) 4 7 
 
 Coal (hard and good, but at this place mixed with a little 
 hard slaty shale, which decreases towards the south- 
 west, and almost disappears at a distance of 7 ft. from 
 
 the shaft) 4 4 
 
 ' Soft sandstone ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 
 
 Dark shale (almost black) ... ... ... 1 
 
 Soft sandstone ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 6 
 
 Sandstone (very hard) ... ... ... 6 
 
 Sandy shale ... ... ... ... ... ... 2 8 
 
 j Dark shale 1 4 
 
 ^IliJJ Slaty shale, mixed with coal 1 2 
 
 S*!" 2 Bored through soft sandstone ... ... ... ... 3 6 
 
 p .31s I 
 
 2r2 S 
 
 49 9 
 
 This shaft was abandoned 011 account of the large quantity of water. 
 Had this not taken place, it was intended to sink to a seam known to 
 exist about low-water mark. 
 
 JAMES BUKNETT. 
 
T1IE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. lU3 
 
 attains a thickness of from 1,200 to 1,500 feet. So that the 
 tertiary formation comes to the surface only just at the foot of 
 the ranges, or where the rivers have cut through the diluvium 
 and exposed the tertiary marls beneath. 
 
 I have before mentioned the fossiliferous marls, sandstones t 
 and the coal-seams of the "Wangapeka district ; in the hills 
 betAveen the Buller Eiver and the Eotorua Lake the same fossi- 
 liferous marls are met with. On the eastern side, near Nelson, 
 the marine strata of the tertiary formation form the clift's from 
 Green Point to the Waimea Plains ; and in a line between the 
 town and the village of Eichmond the brown-coal formation 
 extends, opened up at Mr Jenkins' coal-mine. 
 
 The first excursion which I made after visiting Nelson was 
 by the cliffs to this coal mine, and it was with great surprise 
 that I saw the extraordinary disturbances which must have 
 taken place in the stratification. The dip of the strata is 
 towards the east, at an angle of about sixty degrees. As it is 
 geologically impossible that a newer tertiary stratum can 
 underlie the older slate formations of the ranges, it follows that 
 the strata about Mr. Jenkins' coal-mine, by an immense force 
 from the eastward, must have been completely turned over ; 
 and in the mine itself there is abundant proof of this. The 
 strata there show unmistakable evidences that they have been 
 rubbed and pressed together. Under these circumstances it is 
 very doubtful whether a mine in that particular place could be 
 successfully worked. To Mr. Jenkins the people of Nelson 
 are indebted for proving to them that they have coal in the 
 immediate vicinity of the town, and I think it not improbable 
 that in the same line of stratification between Nelson and 
 Eichmond, a place may be found where, perhaps, at a greater 
 depth, the coal seams lie in their natural position, and workings 
 may be carried on with success. 
 
 The diluvial formation, which constitutes what is commonly 
 known as the Moutere and Wai-iti hills, extending over an 
 immense track of country towards the south, so far as to the 
 Eotorua Lake, is nothing else than the detritus of the eastern 
 and western ranges accumulated during a long period. It is 
 not surprising, therefore, seeing that a portion comes from the 
 auriferous rocks of the western ranges, that prospecting parties 
 of diggers should have found gold at various spots between 
 
 H 
 
104 THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 
 
 those hills. And it is a fact that the first gold in this Province 
 was discovered in a stream which cuts through this diluvium. 
 I refer to the Motueka diggings, in Pig Valley, at the foot of 
 the western ranges. I have heard that quite recently these 
 diggings had been resumed with some success. Bearing in 
 mind the source from which the gold is derived, I think it 
 likely that the nearer to the western ranges the richer will be 
 the diluvium ; but it is at the same time doubtful if it is rich 
 enough, for any extent, to be of much consequence. 
 
 I have had many questions put to me with regard to the 
 origin and character of the Nelson Boulderbank. I have not 
 time to give such an explanation of it as I should wish to 
 present to you. The boulders of which it consists are entirely 
 syenite, and the same rock is found on the precipitous bluff 
 which abuts upon the sea beyond Drumduan. The source is 
 thus explained : Fragments are constantly falling from the 
 cliffs, and the action of the heavy northerly swell, combined 
 with a strong current, takes them towards the south. The 
 reason of their being deposited on the existing line is, that in 
 all probability a submarine reef underlies them, of which the 
 Arrow Rock, in the entrance of the Nelson Harbour, may be 
 regarded as the southern termination. This supposition is 
 strengthened by the fact of the Arrow Bock being of the same 
 altered schists as occur immediately to the south of the 
 syenite. 
 
 Before concluding, I wish to make a few remarks upon 
 Volcanic Formations in the Province, and upon some general 
 matters. 
 
 (5.) Volcanic Formations. 
 
 Although there are no signs of a volcanic action still going 
 on in the Middle Island, as far as regards active volcanoes, 
 solfataras, and fumaroles, like those in the Northern Island, 
 we have at the same time plenty of proof that volcanic action 
 has not been less powerful in the Middle Island than in the 
 Northern. 
 
 I have not had an opportunity of visiting the volcanic 
 districts of this island ; but still, feeling that I should make 
 some remarks upon this subject, I will endeavour to explain 
 the opinion I have formed from specimens and communications. 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP NELSON. 105 
 
 It is well known that the high peaks of the Kaikoras, covered 
 with perpetual snow, are of volcanic origin. My friend Haast 
 describes the aspect of the three gigantic cones visible from 
 the Awatere valley as most magnificent three Mount 
 Egmonts, one behind the other ; the first one, Tapuaenuku 
 (or^JVEount Odin), 9,700 feet high, a closed and rounded dome 
 similar in shape to a cupola ; the second one, further to the 
 south, a truncated-bifurcated cone, the bifurcation undoubtedly 
 the indication of a crater on the summit. Erom that peculiar 
 form it has acquired the common name of the " Nest Moun- 
 tain ;" and the third gigantic peak, pyramidical in form like 
 Mount Egmont. Almost equal in height to those landward 
 Kaikoras is the lofty range which rises on the seaward side of 
 the Clarence Biver, the principal points of which have been 
 named Mount Thor and Mount Ereya. Around these just 
 mentioned Scandinavian monarchs of the mass, are ranged 
 several smaller volcanic mountains, which I hope may have a 
 right to maintain their Maori names. 
 
 It is not at all surprising that accounts have been received 
 of newly-discovered hot springs in this volcanic region, in the 
 Hanmer Plains,* at the foot of the Kaikoras. 
 
 Specimens forwarded to me by gentlemen, some from the 
 Kaikoras, and some boulders from the Awatere, prove that the 
 principal rocks in this district are basaltic and tr achy tic lavas. 
 
 Following the southerly direction indicated by the relative 
 position of the two Kaikora groups, we come next to Banks' 
 Peninsula, undoubtedly an extinct volcanic system, rising like 
 an island out from the sea and level plains. 
 
 * At this house (Top-house), I met some gentlemen, newly arrived, 
 and stopped on their road by the river. One had made the journey from 
 Port Cooper, and he gave me an account of hot springs which he had 
 discovered on the Hanmer Plains, under the shelter of a range of snow 
 hills. He observed what seemed to him a remarkable fo, and, upon 
 leaving his track to examine, he discovered some holes, which were filled 
 with water of a temperature varying from milk-warm to almost boiling. 
 The largest of them contained the hottest spring, and although he 
 attempted to sound the depth with all the rope he could procure, he was 
 unable to find the bottom. The circumference of the largest was about 
 fifteen or eighteen yards. This is, I believe, the only instance of hot 
 springs yet discovered in the Middle Island, and, if corroborated, may 
 tend to throw some light on the volcanic connection between this district 
 and the Northern Island." A Walk from the Wairau," from the Nelson 
 Examiner, May 25, 1859. 
 
 H 2 
 
106 THE GEOLOGY OF NELSON. 
 
 In the same line, farther south, lies a third group of volcanic 
 hills, forming the peninsula of Otago. 
 
 These three points doubtless indicate a line of volcanic 
 action, running parallel to the great middle range or backbone 
 of the Middle Island, on the eastern side of it. A closer 
 examination, especially of the Otago Province, would no doubt 
 furnish us with more and similar examples of volcanic hills on 
 that line. It is remarkable, that whilst the parallel zones of 
 volcanic action on the Northern Island (the Tongariro zone, 
 the Auckland and the Bay of Islands zone) all run on the 
 western side of the backbone range between Wellington and 
 the East Cape the great volcanic line of the Middle Island 
 takes the eastern side. 
 
 Many peculiarities in the physical features of the Middle 
 Island, and also many interesting facts respecting the earth- 
 quakes in New Zealand, can be explained by the different 
 position of the line of volcanic action in the two islands. 
 
 Reserving, however, for my future publications this interest- 
 ing subject, which I regret I have not time to enter upon, I 
 will, in conclusion, offer a few 
 
 GE3TEEAL EEMAEKS. 
 
 In the earlier geological era of New Zealand, we may 
 assume that both islands were connected, and that one back- 
 bone ran continuously from the South Cape to the East Cape. 
 In the present map of New Zealand the integrity of this back- 
 bone is broken at Cook's Straits, and a closer inspection will 
 show that there has been not only a simple break of continuity, 
 but a lateral dislocation. Cook's Straits is, to use a miner's 
 expression, a true fault. It is evident, from the rocks being 
 of the same geological formation, that at one period the 
 Pelorus ranges were a continuation of the Wellington ranges. 
 The position of the strata in the eastern ranges of Nelson 
 proves, that whilst the Northern Island seems to have remained 
 stationary, some gigantic force has pressed the great mass of 
 the Middle Island to the westward. The given description of 
 the tertiary formation, extending between the ranges far up 
 the valleys, sounds, and bays leading towards Cook's Straits on 
 both sides, farther proves that the first act of this great 
 conuvlsion of nature took place prior to the tertiary period, 
 
THE GEOLOGY OP NELSON. 107 
 
 and the second and subsequent acts may be coeval with the 
 period of volcanic action in the Islands. 
 
 While the tertiary sea was depositing the strata which now 
 fill the valleys, and which rise in some parts to an altitude of 
 2,000 feet, the higher ranges of New Zealand only were above 
 water. 
 
 Since the tertiary period, these islands have been gradually 
 rising, and that rising has been coeval with the volcanic 
 action, and developed to the greatest amount along the zones 
 of volcanic action. It was in this time that the extensive plains 
 on the east coast of the Middle Island, and the plateaus on the 
 western side of the northern backbone, were raised above the 
 sea. 
 
 The best proof of this rising of the land is to be found in the 
 river terraces, which strike the eye of every traveller in the 
 valleys of the "Wairau, Awatere, Clarence, Motueka, Wanga- 
 peka, Buller, Takaka, and Aorere, and also in the lines of the 
 sandy downs on the Port Cooper plains, which now, miles 
 inland, mark the former limit of the sea. 
 
 These terraces are formed by the gradual rise of the land. 
 If we suppose that, while the rivers are shaping out their 
 beds, the upheaving movement is intermittent, so that long 
 pauses occur, during which the stream will have time to 
 encroach upon one of its banks, so as to clear away and flatten 
 a large space, this operation being repeated at lower levels, 
 there will be several successive cliffs and terraces. It is 
 remarkable that in all the valleys the cliffs of the higher 
 terraces are of greater altitude than the lower. At the Buller 
 river, for example, near its outlet from the Eotoiti Lake, the 
 uppermost cliff is a hundred feet in height, and there can be 
 distinguished in one portion of the valley not less than eight 
 terraces. The character of the terraces shows that the up- 
 heaving force has been decreasing towards the present time, 
 either in power or period. The extreme height of these 
 terraces, being not more than about two thousand feet up the 
 valleys, shows the whole amount of rise in these islands, since 
 the tertiary period, to be about two thousand feet. 
 
 Even at the present day, there are facts which prove that 
 the land of these islands is not stationary, but that the relative 
 levels of water and dry land are undergoing constant moclifica- 
 
108 EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 
 
 tions. The rise of land at "Wellington, in 1855, to an average 
 height of three or four feet, over a great extent of coast, is 
 familiar to every colonist. This rise of land, however, is not 
 general over New Zealand ; for there are many proofs that, 
 while on the eastern side of the islands the level of the land is 
 being raised, on the western side the land is sinking. An axis 
 of equilibrium passes through the islands, on the western side 
 of which the movement is downward, on the eastern side 
 upwards. The same axis, curving round parallel to the 
 Australian coastline, crosses the Pacific between New Cale- 
 donia and the Loyalty group, and can be traced through the 
 Solomon Islands to New Gruinea. 
 
 LADIES AND G-ENTLEMEN, It now only remains for me to 
 express my thanks to you for the attention with which you 
 have followed my geological explanations. Much more still 
 remains that I would wish to say, but I must now conclude. 
 
 I feel well assured that the mineral wealth of Nelson is not 
 confined to what I have to-day mentioned, but believe that, in 
 addition to gold, copper, and coal, future times will develop 
 other valuable substances among your mountains and forests, 
 which cannot fail to prove a source of wealth and prosperity to 
 the Province of Nelson. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF THE MAP OP NELSON. 
 
 BY DR. F. v. HOCHSTETTER. 
 
 MAP VI. 
 
 THE PROVINCE OF NELSON, IN THE SOUTHERN ISLAND OF 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 AFTER a sojourn of seven months' duration on the Northern 
 Island of New Zealand, I availed myself of the kind invitation 
 of the Superintendent to visit the Province of Nelson, and 
 devoted the months of August and September, 1859, to a 
 geological survey of that Province. On the Southern Island 
 I trod on a new and, compared with the Northern Island, 
 an entirely different geological field, most remarkable on 
 account of the multiferous mineral treasures, such as copper, 
 gold, and coal, which have procured to the Province of Nelson 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 109 
 
 the renown of being the principal mineral country of New 
 Zealand. The fine and temperate climate of Nelson enabled 
 me, even in the middle of winter, to pass and to explore the 
 mountain chain which terminates near Cook's Straits. Into 
 the higher and more distant regions of the Southern Alps, 
 however, it was not possible to penetrate. Prom the Eotoiti 
 Lake (Lake Arthur), the most southern part of which I visited, 
 I saw the mighty summits of the southern mountain chains, 
 covered with snow and ice, and which my friend and fellow- 
 traveller Dr. Haast has since so successfully explored, with 
 a most courageous perseverance, and under a great many 
 difficulties and privations.* In the annexed map the results 
 of his and my own observations are combined in a comprehen- 
 sive delineation which explains the character of the geological 
 structure of the northern part of the South Island. 
 
 From a centre which forms the division of the water-courses 
 between the east and west coast, and which is the source of 
 the two frontier rivers of the Provinces of Nelson and Canter- 
 bury, the Hurunni flowing east, and the Taramakau which 
 runs to the west, there extend the two great mountain chains 
 of the Southern Alps in a northerly direction through the 
 Province of Nelson, terminating at Cook's Straits, where they 
 give rise to the complicated coast-line which is so characteristic 
 of the north extremity of the Middle Island. 
 
 Both of these mountain ranges differ in character. The 
 western mountains, which end in Separation Point and Cape 
 Farewell, have a direction from north to south. To them 
 belong the Brunner chain, Lyell chain, Marine chain, Mount 
 Owen, the Tasman mountains, and Mount Arthur chains ; 
 while to the north and fronting Grolden Bay are the Whaka- 
 marama chain, Haupiri and the Anatoki chains. All these 
 mountains and chains consist of crystalline and metamorphic 
 rocks, of granite, gneiss, mica-schist, hornblende-schist, 
 quarzite, and clay slate. It is to these rocks, which are 
 auriferous, that Nelson is indebted for her gold-fields, which 
 were the first gold-fields of New Zealand that were worked, 
 and which even in 1859 yielded gold to the amount of 150,000 
 
 * J. Haast's Report of a Topographical and Geological Exploration of 
 the Western Districts of the Province of Nelson. Nelson, 1861. 
 
110 EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 
 
 sterling. The nature of the gold-fields of the Aorere and 
 Takaka valley convinced me that by a well-managed and 
 regulated plan of working, and with a larger amount of 
 capital, sufficient profits would be realised, and that the 
 development of these gold-fields was only the commencement 
 of gold discoveries which would ultimately extend throughout 
 the whole mountain chain of the South Island ; and that 
 discoveries would be made which, though perhaps not equal to 
 the gold-fields of California and Australia, will nevertheless 
 class New Zealand amongst the gold lands of the earth.* 
 
 The summits of these mountain chains, such as the pic- 
 turesque Mount Arthur, Mount Owen, and others, which are 
 from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, when covered 
 with snow, are visible at a great distance. When arriving in 
 Blind Bay, they give to the landscape of the Province of 
 Nelson its peculiar charm. In the north of the Province are 
 large plains, bordering important rivers, which intersect the 
 mountain chains. Of these plains those by the Buller River 
 are the most remarkable, where there is abundance of land 
 fitted for agriculture, and rich natural pasture suitable for 
 sheep runs. The western and south-western parts of the 
 Province of Nelson are only now opened for settlement, and it 
 may be surmised that in the next few years, these districts 
 will become most important, on account of their treasures of 
 coal, near the mouth of the principal rivers, viz., the Buller 
 (Kawatiri) and the Grey (Mawhera). 
 
 The eastern mountain chain, running in a direction from 
 south-west to north-east, consists of stratified sedimentary 
 formations, comprising old grauwacke sandstone, red, green, 
 and grey clay slates, and isolated patches of laminated calca- 
 reous strata. These strata, highly inclined, and trending in 
 the same direction, are friction-breccias, accompanied by great 
 masses of eruptive rocks, which have altered the contiguous 
 strata. These eruptive rocks occur in a straight belt which 
 extends from Stephens and D'Urville Island in Cook's Straits to 
 the Cannibal Gorge in the south of the Province, over a dis- 
 tance of 150 miles. Throughout this line the lithological 
 
 * It will be remembered that the very rich gold-fields of the Province 
 of Otago were discovered in 1861, 
 
XX PLAN \Tln\ ol' TliK M \ I'. Ill 
 
 character of the rocks differs greatly according to the nature 
 of the eruptive masses, which comprise varieties of Serpentine, 
 Diabas, Syenite, Hyper sthenite, and Augite Porphyry, To 
 the belt of Serpentine and Hypersthenite belongs the cele- 
 brated Dun Mountain, the rich copper ores and chrome-iron 
 from which have given rise to extensive mining operations. 
 
 These mountain ranges terminate at Cook's Straits in nume- 
 rous islands and peninsulas, which inclose these fiord-like bays 
 and sounds, Pelorus Sound and Queen Charlotte Sound, which 
 even in Cook's time were celebrated as most excellent har- 
 bours. The mountains get gradually higher towards the 
 south. Ben Nevis and G-ordon's Knob, which are visible from 
 Nelson, rise to an elevation of 4,000 feet. The mountain 
 range is then broken for a short distance, rising however again 
 in the immediate vicinity of the southern banks of the Rotoiti 
 Lake to a much greater height, forming Mounts Travers and 
 Mackay, and further, in a south-westerly direction, to a height 
 of 10,000 feet in the Spencer Mountains (Mount Franklin 
 and Mount Humboldt) much above the snowy line. This 
 grand mountain chain forms a centre from which the principal 
 rivers of the Province of Nelson have their source. It is to be 
 regretted that the sandstones and clay-slates of this formation 
 contain no fossils, and that the scanty traces of animal and 
 vegetable remains which have been discovered give no certain 
 clue to their geological age. There is only a single locality 
 where fossils are to be found, and that is only at the extreme 
 flank of the mountain system, near Richmond, a few miles south 
 of Nelson, and these indicate a mezozoic age. 
 
 The country to the eastward of these mountain chains, from 
 the Pelorus Sound to the Wairau Plains, and including the 
 alluvial valleys of the "Wairau, Awatere, and Waiautoa Eivers ; 
 also the great mountain ranges, 8,000 to 9,000 feet in height, 
 of the seaward and landward Kaikoras, and the lofty peaks 
 which have been named after the Scandinavian gods Odin^ 
 9,700 feet ; Thor, 8,700 ; and Ereya, 8,500 was withdrawn in 
 1859 from the Province of Nelson, to form the Province of 
 Marlborough. 
 
 Between the eastern and western mountain ranges, is the 
 deep indentation of the coast which forms Blind Bay, and from 
 the southern extremity of which the land rises gradually to an 
 
112 EXPLANATION OF THE MAI'. 
 
 altitude of 2,000 feet above the sea. Here are situated the 
 picturesque mountain lakes Eotoiti and Eotoroa, at the points 
 where the two ranges coalesce to form the Spencer Mountain, 
 by which they are continued in a south-westerly direction. 
 Near Nelson, the commencement of the highland is known as 
 Moutere Hill, where it is intersected by innumerable ravines. 
 This highland is composed of irregular layers of grit sand and 
 yellow clay, resting on a tertiary formation containing brown 
 coal, and filling up the contracting valley between the two 
 mountain systems. These strata are of quaternary age, and 
 being part of the generally diffused drift formation which fills up 
 the principal valleys, and covers the flats amongst the moun. 
 tains, afford evidence that only in the most recent geologic age 
 they were covered by the sea. There is no doubt that the 
 admirable climate of the shores of Blind Bay is due to the 
 above described configuration. Even when there is a storm 
 in Cook's Straits, it is calm and still in Blind Bay, being shel- 
 tered from the break of the sea by Separation Point and Cape 
 D'Urville, while the strong southerly winds are broken by the 
 mountain ranges which converge in that direction. Ships find 
 in Blind Bay shelter from the dreaded storms that rage in 
 Cook's Straits. The town of Nelson, situated at the south- 
 eastern border of the Bay, and at the base of the eastern 
 mountain, enjoys, unlike the other ports of New Zealand, an 
 agreeable absence of wind, and which, combined with a clear 
 and rarely clouded sky, renders its climate the most agreeable 
 and beautiful in New Zealand. With justice it may be called 
 " The Garden of New Zealand." 
 
 The town of Nelson was established in 1842, and was 
 the second settlement formed by the New Zealand Com- 
 pany in Cook's Straits. In spite of the grievous trials with 
 which this young colony has had to contend, it has steadily 
 gained ground. Thus, in 1843 it lost a great number of its 
 best men in the bloody conflict with the natives when 
 Eauparaha and Eangihaeata opposed the colonisation of the 
 Wairau. However, through the exploration of the country, 
 resulting in the discovery of coal, copper, chrome, graphite, 
 and gold, Nelson has become the principal mineral-producing 
 Province of New Zealand. Its population at this date amounts 
 to 10,000 inhabitants, 5,000 of whom reside in the town and 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 113 
 
 its vicinity. The town lies at the foot of the mountain, being 
 built upon an alluvial delta formed by the confluence of two 
 streams, named the Matai and the Brook Street Creek, extend- 
 ing also up their valleys and along the hill slopes that face the 
 harbour. An excellent road leads from Nelson to the south 
 through the luxuriant fields and meadows which bedeck the 
 agricultural districts of the Waimea and Waiiti plains. On 
 these fruitful alluvial flats are to be seen farm after farm, while 
 many villages are rapidly springing into existence. Since 1861, 
 Nelson has possessed a railway, being the first constructed in 
 New Zealand. It is the work of the Dun Mountain Company, 
 for the purpose of developing the chrome mines, and leads from 
 the harbour through the town and up the Brook Street valley. 
 The existence of the harbour of Nelson is due to a most 
 singular boulder bank which extends along the coast for eight 
 miles, forming a natural dam, behind which there extends a 
 narrow and shallow arm of the sea, which deepens towards the 
 south, where it communicates with Blind Bay, and forms a 
 small but safe harbour. 
 
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